FRAY JUAN CRESPI MISSIONARY EXPLORER ON THE PACIFIC COAST 1769-1774 HERBERT EUGENE BOLTON PROFESSOR OF AMERICAN HISTORY DIRECTOR OF THE BANCROFT Ll iF CALIFORNIA THE PUBLICATION OF THIS VOLUME WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY SIDNEY M. EHRjMAN PREFACE The Spanish missionaries were superb pioneers of civilization. They spread the Christian faith among the heathen beyond the borders of settlement; they taught their rude neophytes the elements of European culture; they directed the labor of their charges toward bringing the frontier spaces under profitable cultivation; they served as guardians of the border to hold back hostile natives and intruding European neighbors. Not the least of their pioneering service was their work as explorers. No single body of records made so vast an addition to geographical and ethnological knowledge of the world in the same space of time as that contained in the Jesuit letters and reports of the seventeenth century. In two-thirds of the Western Hemisphere, in major and in minor explorations alike, the missionaries generally played a conspicuous part. For this there were good reasons. Often the unattended friar could go unmolested and without arousing hostility into districts where soldiers were not welcome. Because of their education they were the class best fitted to record what they saw. So they were frequently sent alone to explore new frontiers, or as peace emissaries to hostile tribes, or as chroniclers of expeditions led by othera. Hence it is that the best diaries of early exploration in the Southwest, and, indeed, of most of Spanish America, were written by the missionaries. We have but to recall the example of Friar Marcos, who led the way to the "Seven Cities"; the rediscovery of New Mexico by Fray Agustin Rodriguez and his band; the journeys of Father Larios into Coahuila; the astonishing travels of Father Kino in the deserts of Sonora and Arizona; the diplomatic embassies of Father Calahorra in PREFACE Texas; the lone travels of Father Garces, seeking a better route to California; and the almost superhuman expedition of Fathers Dominguez and Escalante, pathfinders in and about the Great Basin that lies between the Wasatch and the Sierras. High in the list of these "splendid wayfarers" should be placed the name of Fray Juan Crespi. The missionary travels of this gentle Mallorcan friar carried him by sea from Spain to America; by land, on foot or astride a horse or a mule, all the way across Mexico, and the length of Old and New California; and by sea again to the borders of Alaska. To make known to the twentieth-century world the remarkable journeys of Father Crespi is the purpose of this volume. With rapid stroke they are sketched in the Introduction. But this does not suffice. The only way to appreciate his deeds as explorer and diarist is to read his remarkable journals, and follow his itineraries with the map. To make this possible to readers of English, Crespi's diaries are printed here as the primary part of this book. They have never before been assembled in one volume or published as a separate work. They were scattered through the tomes of Palou's New California, and are here reprinted from my English edition of that treatise (Berkeley, 1926), with the addition of several important hitherto unpublished documents, a special Introduction, and Editorial Notes. The diaries are here introduced in a charming manner by five intimate personal letters written by Father Crespi during the historic journeys to San Diego, Monterey, and San Francisco bays in 1769-1770. Three of these letters- rare treasures out of the past—have never before been published. They give a bird's-eye view of the memorable expedition, and prepare the way for the details of the PREFACE diaries. Two of the letters were written to Father Palou, Crespi's old schoolmate and lifelong friend; two were addressed to Father Andres, his superior in Mexico City; and the fifth to Jose de Galvez, the great visitor-general of New Spain, under whose direction California was colonized. The Introduction is devoted primarily to a sketch of the principal expeditions in which Crespi took part. In the Editorial Notes at the end of the volume are supplied textual and other comments on the documents, and extensive data concerning manuscript materials for the episodes covered by the diaries, especially from the archives of Mexico and Spain. The footnotes are designed mainly to assist the reader to an understanding of the narrative. CONTENTS Preface ii; Fray Juan Crespi, Missionary Expix>rer '. xi The Crespi Manuscripts lxii The Portola Expedition lxv As told in Crespi's Letters 1 As told in Crespi's Diary 57 The Fages Expedition of 1772.. As told in Crespi's Diaries .... The Perez Expedition As told in Crespi's Diary.. Editorial Notes Index . 275 . 277 . 305 . 307 . 367 . 389 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS The Monastery of San Francisco, at Palma, Mallorca, where Crespi was a pupil of Serra ^Frontispiece First page of Crespi's letter to Father Andres. From the Mann- script in the Archives of Mexico 16 Mission San Carlos Boi Voyage of Discovery.. Portola's Eoute from San Diego on a modern map 17£ Vancouvei Luis Obispo, projected ] Luis Obispo to San Francisco Bay, Portola's Boute from Sai projected on a modern map Early Exploration around San Francisco Bay: Portola'a journe up the coast in 1769, and Fages's journey via Santa Clai Valley in 1772 „ _ Crespi's Map of San Francisco Bay, 1772 288 The Perez Voyage to the North Pacific in 1774. Compiled by Gilbert Becker. Based on the diary of Perez, whose dates were one day behind those of Crespi .-. 304 Native Woman of Queen Charlotte Island, wearing a lip-piece. From Dixon's Voyage Bound the World 320 Lip-pieee, horn spoon, and shell, used by Natives of Queen Charlotte Island. From Dixon's Voyage Bound the World 336 FRAY JUAN CRESPI MISSIONARY EXPLORER FRAY JUAN CRESPI, MISSIONARY EXPLORER Father Crespi as Diarist Among all the great diarists who recorded explorations in the New World, Juan Crespi occupied a conspicuous place. For more than three decades he pioneered the wilds of North America. Like Francisco Palou he was a pupil of the great Serra and for many years was his close companion. Like them both he was a Mallorcan. In the same mission with them he came to America in 1749. With them he became a member of the Franciscan College of San Fernando in Mexico. Beside them he went as missionary to the Sierra G-orda, that wild mountain fastness northeast of the Aztec capital. With them he was sent to the Peninsula of California on the expulsion of the Jesuits in 1767, and there was put in charge of Mission Purisima Concepcion.* Two years later he was one of the small band of friars selected by Serra to join the Portola expedition for the occupation of San Diego and * The materials on which this sketch of Crespi is based are indicated at some length in the Editorial Notes at the end of the volume. With few exceptions citations to authorities are not given in the footnotes here. FRAY JUAN CRESPI Monterey, while Palou remained behind to fill Serra's place as president on the Peninsula. Crespi even preceded Serra on the great march, for he joined Rivera y Moncada, who led the vanguard, while Serra followed with Portola. Crespi was one of the handful of pioneers who planted the Cross and the banner of Spain at San Diego in that fateful summer of 1769. With Portola he continued north, accomplishing the first European expedition by land up the California coast. With the mystified Portola, seeking the harbor of Monterey, he pushed still farther north, and became one of the discoverers of San Francisco Bay, whose existence theretofore was unknown, and whose importance he was one of the first to recognize. He was the only friar who made the whole fifteen hundred mile march from Vellicata to San Francisco Bay and back. Serra rode the weary way to San Diego; Father Gomez made the long march thence to San Francisco Bay; but of the three Crespi alone covered the whole distance. For this reason he was commissioned to prepare the composite diary which was made. Returning to San Diego, with Portola Crespi again made the land march to Monterey, and with Serra, who had come by water, he now became one of the founders of Mission San Carlos, or Carmel. Carmel was his California MISSIONARY EXPLORER home, and there he spent the next twelve years, as Serra's companion. During part of this time Palou also was with his old friends. But for each of them these years were broken by more than one long jaunt. Two seasons had not passed when Crespi went with Fages to find a way around San Francisco Bay to Point Reyes. A few weeks later he conducted a mule train south with provisions for starving San Diego, and returned with another trainload of supplies brought thither from Mexico by the San Carlos. Still another year later, with Father Pena, he went as chaplain on the great sea voyage made by Juan Perez to Alaska. Back at Carmel, Crespi remained there as missionary eight years more. At the end of that time, with Serra he visited Palou at San Francisco, and beheld again the great bay of which he had been one of the discoverers and explorers. By now the sand of his hourglass had run, for he had scarcely returned to Carmel when he died, still in his prime, just past sixty.* His years were few, but bis deeds were many and memorable. Gentle character, devout Christian, zealous missionary, faithful companion, his peculiar fame will be that of diarist. Of all the men of this half-decade, so prolific in frontier extension FRAY JUAN CRESPI up the Pacific Coast by sea and land, Crespi alone participated in all the major path-breaking expeditions: from Vellicata to San Diego; from San Diego to San Francisco Bay; from Monterey to the San Joaquin Valley; from Monterey by sea to Alaska. In distance he out- traveled Coronado. In all these expeditions he went in the double capacity of chaplain and diarist. With fingers benumbed by cold, with inflamed eyes, in drenching rain, under burning desert suns, or in his berth on a pitching ship, suffering the while with nausea, he faithfully chronicled the happenings of these historic journeys. Of all his expeditions he kept superb records that have come down to us through a century and a half. Of the march of the Rivera party from Vellicata in 1769 his was the best of at least two diaries; of the journey thence to San Francisco Bay and return his was the best of three; of the famous march with Fages in 1772, from Monterey to San Joaquin River by way of the Contra Costa and Carquinez Strait, indispensable records are his exquisite diary and his curious, salamander-like map; and of the Perez voyage he kept one of the best of the three or more journals. These precious pages record nearly two thousand miles of land travel and a sea voyage of twice that distance. Missionary, globe trotter, MISSIONARY EXPLORER and diarist he was; breviary, pack mule, caravel, and quill might decorate his coat of arms or his book plate. Crespi's record was carved deep in the palimpsest of North America. His kindly deeds and his Christian teachings will never die. In the Sierra Gorda, on the Peninsula, and at Carmel the baptisms, the marriages, and the burials of hundreds of neophytes are recorded in his distinguished hand. The archives of . California, of Mexico, and of Spain are enriched by his correspondence with officials and friends. In his precious diaries the human toils, the adventures, the thrills, the hopes, the fears of three historic journeys on the Pacific Coast are embalmed.1 With the Portola Expedition- The occupation of Alta California in 1769 was one of the dramatic episodes of American colonial history. For over two hundred years Spain had contemplated the step but had been busy with more important affairs. Now and again the region beckoned, but it was far remote. Cabrillo made known the merits of San Diego Bay. The multitude of intelligent natives which he encountered on the Santa Barbara Channel offered an enticing field for missionary labors. Drake and Cavendish threatened the western FRAY JUAN CRESPI end of the mythical Strait of Anian, and caused misgivings for the security of Spain's commerce on the Pacific. The ravages of scurvy made havoc with the crews of the Manila galleons as they came clock-wise down the Pacific coast. The merits of lime juice as an antiscorbutic were not yet known, and California was often talked of as a health-giving vegetable garden for sailors returning from the Philippines. Vizcaino, sent to explore, reconnoitered and over-advertised Monterey Bay. But still Alta California was not occupied. The province was not needed and Spain was too busy elsewhere. And so for another century and a half the Land of Sunshine was chiefly a matter of conversation and romance. Then the Russian Bear threatened and the situation changed. In the seventeenth century ] the Muscovites had crossed Siberia and opened : trade with China. Early in the eighteenth century Bering made his stupendous voyages into the North Pacific. He discovered Bering Strait, coasted the American mainland, and initiated the fur trade. In a twinkling his voyages were followed by a rush of fur traders to the Aleutian Islands. Within a few years posts were established on Bering, Unalaska, Kadiak, and other islands, for a distance of nearly a thousand miles. Aleuts and sea otters now paid awful MISSIONARY EXPLORER tribute to the gold-thirsty men of the North. Though trading activities were as yet confined largely to the Aleutian archipelago, alarming rumors reached the Spanish court of an impending southward push of the Russians. It was time to act. And action was assured by the presence of two remarkable men on the northern frontier of Mexico. One was Jose de Galvez, the energetic visitor-general of New Spain; the other was Junipero Serra, the fiery head of the Franciscan missions of Old California. The decision to move came early in 1768. On January 23 a royal order was sent to Viceroy Croix to resist any aggressions of the Russians that might arise. This command, which coincided with the views already arrived at by the visitor-general and the viceroy, reached Galvez as he was on his way to Lower California. While settling affairs on the Peninsula, Galvez organized the historic expedition that was sent forth to hold Alta California. Specifically it was designed to establish garrisons at San Diego and Monterey, and to plant missions, under military protection, to convert and civilize the natives. The general command was entrusted to Portola, governor of the Peninsula, and the missionary work to Father Serra. In a spectacular expedition the enterprise was carried out in 1769.2 The San Carlos under Vicente Vila and the San Antonio under Juan Perez FRAY JUAN CRESPI conducted a portion of the colony by sea, the rest marched overland from Lower California in two detachments. Owing to errors in latitude made by the earlier explorers the vessels sailed too far north in their search for San Diego Bay. The San Antonio* reached port after fifty-four days at sea. Slower still, the San Carlos was one hundred and ten days on the way, and when she entered the harbor her crew were too ill from scurvy and lack of fresh water even to lower the boats. A weary fortnight was spent chiefly in caring for the sick and burying the dead. The supply ship, the San Jose, on which hopes were pinned, was never heard of again after her departure from port in Lower California.8 The land parties were more fortunate. Provisions for the journey, horses, mules, and cattle were assembled at Vellicata, a post eighteen leagues beyond Santa Maria, the northernmost of the old Jesuit missions.! The first of the overland parties waved goodbye at Vellicata on March 24, 1769. It* was led by Captain Rivera, * Also called El Prfocipe. t Villicata, or Vellieata, was the point of departure of the Portola expedition from Old California. At the time Rivera and Crespi went through it was an Indian village where no mission had been founded as yet. Shortly afterward Serra and Portola arrived from the south and founded at the site the Mission of San Fernando de Vellicata, the first, last, and only mission on the Peninsula founded by the Franciscans. It was taken over by the Dominicans in 1773. It is MISSIONARY EXPLORER commander of the company of Loreto. He had twenty-five leather-jacket soldiers (soldados de cuera), three muleteers, and some forty Indians from the old missions, equipped with pick, shovel, ax, and crowbar, to open the roads through the mountains and across arroyos. As chaplain and diarist went Father Juan Crespi, principal historian of the expedition. To the timid natives along the route the armored Spaniards were an apparition. Rivera's men were declared to be "the finest horsemen in the world, and among those soldiers who best earn their bread from the august monarch whom they serve." The cuera, which gave them their name, was a leather jacket, like a coat without sleeves, proof against the Indians' arrows except at very close range. For additional armor they had shields and chaps. The shields, carried on the left arm, were made of two plies of bull's hide, and would turn either arrow or spear. The leather chaps or aprons, fastened to the pommel of the saddle, protected legs and thighs from brush and cactus spines. The way was difficult and long, but the hours were shortened by the joy of discovery. For the first eight days the trail was that followed by the Jesuit Father Linck three years before. Thereafter, for over two hundred and fifty miles, the route was now explored by white men for FRAY JUAN CRESPI the first time. Like De Soto, like Coronado, Rivera and his men were pathfinders. Frequently water had to be carried in barrels and skin bags (botas), for the Peninsula is dry. More than once the animals had to halt for the night without water, and sometimes there was no fuel for a camp fire. Several nights were made shivery by the screaming of a mountain lion. Much of the way was over rugged mountains. The wild Indians did no harm, but occasionally they were threatening. When the Spaniards reached the coast it rained, and the men spent uncomfortable nights in water-soaked clothing. At last the difficult journey came to an end. On the 13th of May scouts from a height saw the masts of the two vessels anchored in San Diego Bay. Next day their joy was mixed with sadness; the welcome salutes and the fond embraces were offset by news of the horrible inroads made by scurvy into the ranks of the sea party.4 Just one day after Rivera and Crespi reached San Diego, Portola and Serra set out from Vellicata. The season was better, the trail had been broken, and the journey was quicker than Rivera's, even though it may have lacked some of the romance. On the last day of June, after a march of six weeks, the wayfarers reached San Diego. Serra said Mass, the Te Deum was sung, MISSIONARY EXPLORER and artillery roared salute from the new outpost of Church and State. This first band of Spanish pioneers on the soil of Alta California, when all were assembled, comprised one hundred and twenty-six souls; twenty-three of the original number had perished on the vessels or after landing; of the mission Indians some had deserted on the way, reluctant to leave home. On Sunday, the 16th of July, Serra preached to a group of naked natives made happy by little trinkets from his stock, and dedicated the mission of San Diego de Alcala. Nearby the presidio of San Diego was founded.5 New California had been ushered into history. The port of Monterey was still to be protected. Indeed, it was the main objective. Portola therefore sent the San Antonio back to Mexico for men and supplies; then, leaving the San Carlos at anchor for want of a crew, he continued up the coast by land to complete his task without the aid of the vessels. The march began on the 14th of July, two days before Serra formally founded his mission of San Diego. Ahead rode Ortega and his scouts. Next came Portola, Fages, Costanso, Father Crespi and Gomez, six Catalan volunteers, and the Indian sappers. Now followed the pack train in four divisions, each of twenty-five loaded mules, with muleteers and a soldier guard. Li the rear came FRAY JUAN CRESPI Captain Rivera, the rest of the soldiers, and friendly Indians driving the caballada—the herd of spare mules and horses.8 Portola and his band jogged northward along the coast by a route practically on the line of the railroads today. Most of the way pasture and water were plentiful and the Indians numerous and friendly. At Santa Ana River a sharp earthquake was felt. "It lasted about half as long as an Ave Maria, and about ten minutes later it was repeated, though not violently." It was from this circumstance that the inconstant Santa Ana was long called the Rio de Ios Tem- blores. Other shocks occurred during several days, until the Los Angeles River was crossed. Without great difficulty the coast was followed past San Luis Obispo to a point near the southern line of Monterey County. But here the way was blocked by the rugged Sierra de Santa Lucia, whose steep cliffs overhang the sea, and a halt of several days was necessary while Rivera and the scouts sought a way through the mountains. An opening was found by clambering up the steep slopes along San Carpoforo Creek. The way was continued then to the north and northeast for about fifty miles, across Nacimiento and San Antonio rivers, and down Kent Canyon to Salinas River, which was reached at the site of King City. This march through the Sierra de MISSIONARY EXPLORER Santa Lucia was one of the hardest stretches of country encountered anywhere by the early explorers of the West. With grim humor Crespi wrote, "The mountains . . . are inaccessible, not only for men but also for goats and deer." Arroyos flowing down the deep gorges had to be crossed innumerable times. From a high peak near San Antonio River nothing but mountains could be seen in any direction. Sea and valley ■ were completely lost to view. "It was a sad spectacle for us, poor wayfarers, tired and worn out by the fatigues of the long journey." Some of the soldiers by now were disabled by the accursed scurvy. "All this tended to oppress our hearts," said philosophic Crespi; "but, remembering the object to which these toils were directed, and that it was for the greater glory of God through the conversion of souls, and for the service of the king, whose dominions were being enlarged by this expedition, all were animated to work cheerfully." When the scouts who went ahead looked down the Salinas Valley they thought they saw the ocean. The men now "all bestirred themselves, supposing that the goal toward which we were marching was only a short distance away, for our desires traveled faster than we," says Cos- tanso. But it was an illusion. Six more days' march were necessary before the roar of the FRAY JUAN CRESPI sea was heard at Monterey Bay. The shore was approached with breathless anticipation. Vizcaino had told of a "fine harbor." But none was found, and Portola, bewildered, concluded that some mistake had been made, and that the harbor must be farther north. So north he continued up the coast. As the men pressed on through the spacious forests, they saw, rank upon rank, the sheer, ruddy trunks of giant timber, and they called this new tree the palo Colorado. This is the first historical mention of the famous California redwood. At Half Moon Bay they saw the Farallones, Point Reyes, and Cermefio's (Drake's) Bay; this they recognized at once, for the old pilot Cabrera Bueno had made it better known than any other point on the north coast. Plainly, they had passed Monterey and were a long distance out of their course. So crossing Montara Mountain they pitched camp at San Pedro Point, to rest and debate what should be done. Ortega, chief scout, was sent ahead to try to reach Point Reyes. Next day, food being nearly exhausted, some hunters struck into the mountains northeast of the camp to look for game. The chase, or perhaps only the hope of it, led upward until presently they came out on a clear height and beheld a great quiet harbor to the east and north. These hunters were the MISSIONARY EXPLORER first white men to report a glimpse of San Francisco Bay. Ortega returned a few hours behind the hunters, with the news that his way to Point Reyes was cut off by a roadstead that led into the estuary described by the hunters—a noble harbor that was almost land-locked, so near together stood the two titanic pillars of its one gate, open to the sunset ocean. Crespi, who saw it next day, had a sense of its importance. "In a word," he said, "it is a very large and fine harbor, such that not only all the navy of our most Catholic Majesty but those of all Europe could take shelter in it." The Indians near the Golden Gate had told Ortega that two days' march to the north there was a ship in a harbor. The hungry wayfarers concluded, or dared to hope, that the vessel was the San Jose, or perhaps the San Carlos, with provisions. So Portola decided to push on and find the ship. His way up the coast was cut off by the newly-discovered channel, so he decided to go round the obstacle, by swinging south. On the 4th of November the way-worn party descended to the bay at Palo Alto. From here Ortega and eight men were sent out to attempt to reach Point Reyes by going round the estuary. The worthy scout explored the bay to its southern extremity, but he succeeded in getting north Hi FRAY JUAN CRESPI only to the neighborhood of Hayward. Either from this point or while on the Peninsula Ortega saw the passage through the Golden Gate and the three islands within the strait—Alcatraz, Yerba Buena, and Angel. Retracing their route along the coast they again reached Point Pinos and Monterey Bay. They planted two crosses, one near Carmel River and the other on the bay shore, and continued to San Diego.* Though he was one of the lesser personages of this historic expedition, Sergeant Ortega should not be passed by without further mention. He does not need my testimony, for Junipero Serra gave him a eulogy that will fix his place in history. Ortega joined Portola's division of * A good deal of debate has been indulged in as to whether Ortega saw the entrance to the harbor. Unquestionably he saw it, for the records of the Portola expedition plainly tell us so. From camp at San Pedro Point he was sent north to explore, with Point Beyes as an objective. After going "about three leagues" he reached the "end or head of the estuary" which the hunters had described. There his way was blocked by a "very noble and very large harbor," . . . "on the parallel of thirty-eight degrees." There were "three islands within the strait which connects with the ocean between some high mountains"—the pillars of the Golden Gate. On the basis of Ortega's reports of his visit to the Golden Gate and of his tour around to the Contra Costa, Costans6, engineer and map-maker, drafted a map of San Francisco Bay that was strikingly accurate, showing the passage to the ocean, and two arms of the bay, between the Point Richmond and Alviso of today. (See Crespi's Diary, entry for Nov. 3; Crespi to Pal6u, Feb. 6, 1770; Ortega to Palou, Feb. 9, 1770.) MISSIONARY EXPLORER the California expedition, following or rather guiding the governor all the way to San Diego. Up to that point, of course, they were following Rivera's trail, and Rivera's work as pathfinder need not be minimized in an effort to exalt Ortega. From San Diego northward Ortega was the real pathfinder. His work can best be set forth in Serra's own words: "The Sergeant went with the expedition, and as soon as we came to the end of a short stretch of road which some of the soldiers knew because they had been over it on a preceding expedition, the governor appointed him to go every day accompanied by a soldier to explore the route that we were to take on the following day. And thus he continued for the space of more than a month that our journey lasted, going three times over the road which the rest of us traveled but once. He went to look for the watering place and the camping site, returned with the information, and then went with all the party to the place selected. The soldier who accompanied him was sometimes relieved but the Sergeant never. The danger of going in this way among heathen people who were now resisting us, as we learned afterwards, kept me in constant anxiety; and, in fact, on some occasions his escape in safety could be attributed only to the saints of his devotion. FRAY JUAN CRESPI "After our arrival at San Diego, where everybody was surprised at the manner in which we had come, the departure from that port in search of the harbor of Monterey was determined upon. The Sergeant never left off serving in the same office; and especially when they went out in various directions to look for the harbor, it was he who penetrated farthest in the examination of the estuaries of San Francisco, looking for a passage to the other shore." Ortega's fame as Portola's chief scout in the discovery of San Francisco Bay is not unmerited. Portola, commander; Crespi, diarist; Ortega, scout. At San Diego affairs had gone badly. Fifty persons had died and the rest were homesick. During Portola's absence they had had a serious brush with the natives, who had pillaged their huts and stripped the invalids of their garments. Provisions were scarce, and there was even talk of abandoning the enterprise. But Rivera was dispatched to Loreto for stock and supplies, and the pioneers held on as if they knew the full meaning of their fortitude. In the crisis Serra's faith was superb. "What I have desired least is provisions," he wrote. "Our needs are many, it is true; but if we have health, a tortilla, and some vegetables, what more do we want? . . If I see that along with food hope vanishes I MISSIONARY EXPLORER shall remain together with Father Juan Crespi and hold out to the last breath."7 But relief was at hand. The supply ship came. To the eyes of the friars, who kept an unceasing vigil of prayer for nine days, and to the discouraged Portola, the white sails of the San Antonio cleaving the clear blue twilight must have seemed as the wings of some heavenly visitant, more beautiful than ever ship before had spread to the beneficent wind. Alta California had been saved from the danger of abandonment. Another expedition to Monterey was successful and the presidio and mission of San Carlos were founded there (1770), near the spot where one hundred and sixty-eight years before Father Ascension had said Mass under a spreading oak tree.8 "Let thanks be given to His Divine Majesty for the achievement of what has cost so many steps and toils," wrote Crespi, who had shared in all of them. The Russian menace had been met. Spain's frontier had been advanced eight hundred miles. That the event was of more than local import was generally felt, and the news of it, hurried to Mexico by special courier and dispatch boat, was celebrated at the capital. "His Excellency [the Viceroy] wanted the whole population forthwith to share the happiness which the information gave him, and therefore he ordered FRAY JUAN CRESPI a general ringing of the bells of the cathedral and all the other churches, in order that everybody might realize the importance of the Port of Monterey to the Crown of our monarch, and also to give thanks for the happy success of the expedition; for by this means the dominion of our king had been extended over more than three hundred leagues of land." To give the event signal emphasis the viceroy ordered a solemn Mass of thanksgiving sung in the cathedral, and attended in person with his whole viceregal court. With the Fages Expedition The long-talked-of harbors of San Diego and Monterey had been occupied. But Galvez had ordered that next a mission should be founded for Saint Francis. And it must be estabJUshed "on that saint's port," that is, on the bay near Point Reyes known as San Francisco Bay ever since the sixteenth century. This was the fiat of the great Galvez.* Here was a pious task to be performed; and, besides, the surprising new- * In regard to the naming and location of Mission San Franciisco, Galvez wrote an interesting letter to Serra on September 15, 1768. This was six weeks before Galvez and Serra met and talked over plans for New California. He said: "It is quite proper that each religious order should invoke the protection of its own saints, and especially must we remember the seraphic saint, Our Father San Francisco. . . . We have seen how, in happy prophecy, the old explorers gave the names of some of them to the principal points on the coast above and below Monterey. The port where one of the low to be established they called San Diego, and that MISSIONARY EXPLORER found bay or estuary piqued curiosity and claimed attention. Portola had discovered the puzzling harbor, but its merits were only half recognized. In fact, it upset old notions of geography. Cermeno had been wrecked in the bay under Point Reyes (1595) and called it San Francisco (now Drake's Bay). Portola regarded the noble sheet which he had stumbled upon as tributary to Cermeno's harbor, and he therefore called it the Estuary of the Bay of San Francisco. By him it was regarded chiefly as an obstruction in the path to Cermeno's Bay. So he sent Ortega to go around the obstacle, but the worthy scout succeeded only in getting to the neighborhood of Hayward. appellation must not be changed. To another fine harbor, situated in thirty-eight and one-half degrees, they gave the name of the glorious patriarch San Franciseo, and we must not change this very appropriate title, for after a foothold is once gained in Monterey it must be the first mission to follow; and our Father, being so beloved of God, will facilitate the establishment by means of his powerful intercession. Let the intervening mission be called San Buenaventura as a guaranty of good fortune, and let those that may be founded afterward take the names of other saints of the order. We must not take away the name of San Carlos from the port or from the town to be founded at Monterey, for if is the good-omened name of our beloved sovereign, of the Prince of the Asturias, and of the present Viceroy of New Spain. Nevertheless, the titular saint of that church must be the patriarch Senor San Joseph, because the present expedition has been undertaken under his special patronage; but my saint will not be offended if the temple having his appellation is small, for he is very humble . . . and besides, he already has on the Peninsula two missions commended to his protection." (Joseph de Galvez to Juni- pero Serra, Santa Ana, September 15, 1768. MS. Museo Nacional, Doc. Hist. Bel. Mis. Cal. Quarto I.) FRAY JUAN CRESPI Just a year behind Ortega, Pedro Fages lifted the veil of mystery a little higher. He had been with Portola, and was left by him in command at Monterey. On his own initiative he made another attempt to reach Point Reyes by land. With six soldiers and a muleteer he set forth from Monterey in November, 1770. To the south end of San Francisco Bay he broke new ground. Portola had held to the coast. Fages and his men struck into the interior and by a direct route marked out the present highway from Monterey to San Jose. Northeast they rode across Salinas River, through the broad Salinas Valley, over the San Juan grade past the sites of Hollister, Gilroy, Coyote, and San Jose, to the mouth of Guadalupe River. Thus far all was path-finding, but here at the head of the Bay Fages joined Ortega's trail. Spurring their mounts forward and swinging northwest now, his party skirted the Contra Costa for two days, going seven leagues beyond the point reached by Ortega. From the Berkeley hills they looked west through the Golden Gate and to the north they beheld San Pablo Bay cutting across their route to Point Reyes. Being needed at Monterey Fages now turned his horse's head homeward.9 Cermeno's bay was still the goal, and nobody had succeeded in getting around the Estuary MISSIONARY EXPLORER that stood in the way. But events and curiosity pushed the explorers on. In May (1771) the Principe arrived in Monterey with ten friars to found five new missions. One of them of course was to be named San Francisco and founded on "his port." For so Galvez had decreed. To everybody this still meant Cermeno's bay, near Point Reyes. Croix ordered preparatory explorations by sea and land, but other things demanded attention. The Principe could not undertake the task; Fages had to go to San Diego for men and mules; and Serra was busy founding Mission San Antonio in the Sierra de Santa Lucia. Saint Francis had to wait. These things attended to, and the winter rains over, in March Fages set forth to make another attempt to reach Point Reyes. With the captain went Father Crespi, six Catalonian volunteers, six Leather-jackets, a muleteer, and an Indian servant. Crespi's firm hand recorded the venture.* To the head of the estuary they- followed the trail opened by Fages more than a year before. Northwest to the region of Hayward they retraced the ground already twice covered by Ortega and Fages. To the Berkeley hills they were on Fages's trail. Thereafter they were path breakers once more, and their pulses beat faster. * Fages also wrote an excellent diary. FRAY JUAN CRESPI Where Oakland now stands the explorers entered a vast plain and halted directly in front of the Golden Gate. There, with his back to the foothills, Crespi set up his instruments and in the clear March atmosphere mapped the passage from ocean to bay. To him the Golden Gate seemed two miles wide or more. In front of the Gate he noted the three islands which Ortega had seen—Alcatraz, Yerba Buena, and Angel. From the head of the estuary to this point he called it fifteen leagues, an estimate that is confirmed by the speedometer of any good automobile. The cavalcade moved on. Below the green hills of Berkeley Fages's men killed a bear, but in turn were driven to desperation by mosquitoes. Near the site of Richmond they visited a village of fair and bearded Indians, who gave the Spaniards stuffed decoy geese in exchange for beads. A few miles farther on (six leagues from the parallel of the Gate) near Pinole, perhaps, they halted near "a large round bay" such that "all the fleets of Spain could find room in it." Crespi's queer map of the "round bay" and its connections, preserved in Sevilla, is one of the engaging bits of California cartography. This fine harbor, of course, was San Pablo Bay. Beyond it, to the northwest, the wayfarers would reach Point Reyes. But next day they suffered MISSIONARY EXPLORER a disappointment when they learned that their way round the bay was cut off by Carquinez Strait. Across this ribbon of water from the Vallejo hills came Indians on rafts to meet the fair strangers and offer them food. Along the strait the horsemen jingled through other villages of fair and bearded Indians who mingled admiration with surprise and fear as the cavalcade passed. Near the site of Pacheco they entered the beautiful valley in which Concord stands, a paradise for their animals. Leaving its luxuriant meadows behind, they clambered up a spur of Mount Diablo whence they, the first Europeans, gazed down upon the great Sacramento Valley, in its immensity one of the impressive sights of the world. "We saw," says Crespi, "that the land opened into a great plain as level as the palm of the hand." To the north they beheld Suisun Bay; to the east the maze of islands and channels formed by the San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers; and beyond, the haze-covered foothills of the great Sierras. The soldiers thrilled with their discovery; each was an embryo Columbus. No other white man would be "first" to behold this matchless country. The vista before them challenged comparison with beloved homeland. "Some of those who were with us," writes FRAY JUAN CRESPI Crespi, "and who had seen the Ebro River in Spain, declared that that stream is not half as large as this one." Crespi himself was stirred to superlatives. "To this great river I gave the name of my Father San Francisco, . . . which it seems must be the largest that has been discovered in all New Spain." Descending the eastern slope of the ridge they halted near the site of Pittsburg. Here their outward journey ended, for they had been overtaken by six Leather-jackets who had followed their di-m trail with letters requiring Fages to hasten to Monterey and thence to San Gabriel and San Diego. So, by the light of the campfire they decided to return. The messengers were not altogether inopportune, "in view of the fact that our passage to Point Reyes for the examination of the port of our Father San Francisco was cut off by these rivers." The bay near Point Reyes was still the objective. But to cross the river or the strait, boats would be necessary; to go to the Sierras and around the stream would require more men, more time, and more provisions. They were needed at home; hence they decided to call it a day's work, return, and report to the viceroy. By their circuitous route they had come seventy-one leagues from Monterey;* but by taking a more direct trail homeward they hoped * Fages's estimate was somewhat less. MISSIONARY EXPLORER to shorten the distance and at the same time to make new explorations. To the disappointed this would yield at least a drop of consolation. There was still something to see. Therefore, reining southwestward they skirted the western base of Mount Diablo, re-entered the Concord Valley near Clayton, and continued west to the region of Walnut Creek. Turning southeast now, their spurs clinked past the site of Danville, and on through San Ramon Valley with its oak-covered hills on either side. Veering south they skirted the western edge of Liver- more Valley, camped in front of the Hacienda de las Pozas, crossed Sunol Valley, threaded Mission Pass, and re-entered the valley of San Francisco Bay. They had tied a great loop in their trail. From this point they hastened to Monterey by rapid marches over practically the same route by which they had come. They had covered in their journey nearly four hundred miles, half the way over new ground. This historic journey by Fages and Crespi had more than merely exploratory significance. It was a decisive factor in determining the location of San Francisco. Cermeno's bay or Point Reyes had been predestined for that honor. There was the historic port of Saint Francis. But the new-found bay and its affluents stood in the way. It was now concluded that communication with Point Reyes must be main- FRAY JUAN CRESPI tained by water; or better—and here was the new thought expressed by Crespi—that the proposed settlement might be planted south of the Golden Gate, in reach from Monterey by land, and on the shore of the superb new harbor. "From all that we have seen and learned," wrote Crespi in the last paragraph of his diary, "it is inferred that if the new mission must be established on the very harbor of San Francisco* or in its vicinity, neither provisions nor stock can be taken to it by land; nor if it is founded will it be able to maintain any connection with this port of Monterey unless several canoes and some sailors are provided with which to go from one place to the other, to transport the necessities, and in this way make communication easy. May God our Lord, who penetrates hearts, show the rulers what to decide in order that they may make the decision most conducive to His greater honor and glory, and to the welfare of those helpless, blind, and unhappy souls. Amen." With his prayer and his diary Crespi furnished the new idea. With the help of these the rulers decided to found the Mission of Saint Francis south and not north of the Golden Gate. The Fages-Crespi expedition marks a distinct step forward, both in discovery and in choice of a site for San Francisco.10 * That is, Drake's Bay. MISSIONARY EXPLORER With the Perez Expedition Not San Francisco harbor alone gave anxiety for the northern coasts. It was the Russians who had frightened Spain into the occupation of New California, and the Russian danger had not by any means passed. New and disquieting rumors of the Muscovites continued to reach Spanish ears. Conde de Lacy, Spanish plenipotentiary at St. Petersburg, sent alarming dispatches to Minister Arriaga at Madrid.* He had heard that the Russian Tscherikow had recently made a voyage to the American coast, the reports of which the government was jealously keeping secret. Something sinister was brewing, and Spain must be on the qui vive! Arriaga lost no time in forwarding the disturbing news to Viceroy Bucareli, with orders to investigate. There was a buzz of excitement in Bucareli's court, and the new viceroy showed his quality by taking the lead. For immediate help in this time of need he turned to Juan Perez, ablest pilot in the California service, he who first in this period had steered a ship into the harbors of San Diego and Monterey. For the ultimate problem in the North Pacific, which he grasped with statesmanlike prescience, Buca- , reli asked for a corps of skilled mariners, trained for great ( FRAY JUAN CRESPI In quick response the king sent from Spain six officers of the royal marine, detailed especially to explore the North Pacific waters and ward off foreign danger there. This galaxy of mariners, coming to San Bias, in the next two decades made one of the brilliant chapters of seamanship in the history of North America. Hezeta, Bodega, Ayala, Quiros, Choquet, and Manrique, with several no less gallant associates, form a group of bold sea-dogs of the Pacific who deserve but still await an historian. But it was a year before this marine corps arrived. Meanwhile Bucareli met the need of the moment with the materials at hand. New orders from Madrid quickened his pace. Still another Russian expedition to the American coasts was reported. The ambitions of the Russian Bear must be checked or it would be too late. Perez sprang to the breach. In September he submitted a plan for an expedition to the threatened shores. He would sail north, strike the coast in latitude 45° or 50° and then recon- noiter southward to spy out any lurking enemies. The best time to start would be between December and February, and the best ship available would be the transport Santiago, alias Nueva Galicia, newly built for the California service. Bucareli's ideas vaulted higher. He approved the plan and put Perez in command, but MISSIONARY EXPLORER ordered him to climb the North Pacific as far as 60° and then coast downward. By all means the purpose of the voyage must be kept a secret. This was to be a preliminary reconnoissance only, not a military expedition. Since Perez would have no armed force, he must make no settlement. But he must note the best sites on the coast, take formal possession of them for Carlos III, and get acquainted with the natives. If he found strangers settled anywhere, he must go them one better by taking possession a safe distance farther to the north. Through his long- winded instructions there floats the aroma of the East brought west by old Marco Polo. In the spirit of the days of the conquistadores, Perez was ordered to report on the resources of the country—its natives, its spices, its drugs, its metals, its precious stones. He was provided with copies of the latest Russian maps, sent for the purpose, with royal solicitude, from Spain. To win the natives he carried four chests of glass beads and four hundred and sixty-eight strings. In distributing these gifts great care must be taken to discriminate between the high and the lowly; more beads must be given to chiefs than to the rank and file.11 Detailed paragraphs told Perez just how to "take possession." They followed good old custom. The permanent sign of ownership would FRAY JUAN CRESPI be a large wooden cross, set on a stone base, presumably in cement. For the appropriate ceremony Perez was provided with a long formulary, couched in legal and pious terms, which, if heard by the red men doubtless would be most impressive—and wholly unintelligible. In the stone base of the cross a copy of the formulary of possession must be deposited in a sealed glass bottle or flask. This for any Europeans who might come meddling down the coast. It was to be like the leaden plates buried by France up and down the Mississippi Valley as a warning to England, most of which were found, if ever, long after both contestants were out of the game, to be quarreled over only by scholars. San Bias, the California sea base, bustled and hummed to equip and provision the sturdy ship. Galloping couriers carried despatches over the mountains to and from the viceroy. Late in January, 1774, the sails of the Santiago filled and she glided from the harbor. On board were eighty-eight men, counting officers, crew, surgeon, and chaplain. Besides supplies for a year's cruise the vessel carried provisions for Monterey. Close behind, the Principe was sent with additional supplies to Monterey, to serve, as succor for Perez in case of need. The Santiago carried a distinguished passenger—a wiry little man with compelling black MISSIONARY EXPLORER eyes, and an eager look. It was Father Serra, returning now from his strenuous but successful mission to Mexico, where he had hypnotized a viceroy and taken Fages's official head. He had planned to wait for the Principe, but his eager spirit could not bear to see a vessel depart without him for his beloved Monterey. At San Diego a three weeks' stop was made, and here one of the unfit was weeded out. Not all of Perez's men were heroes, any more than were all those whom Washington began to muster a few months later on the other side of the continent. Indeed they were quite human enough to be interesting. Dr. Joseph Davila, sent as surgeon of the expedition, was one of those many congenital landlubbers for whom the ocean has unconquerable terrors. With him Serra, who had a better stomach for the sea, was completely disgusted. On the voyage to San Diego the doctor lay prone in his berth, "not from illness, but from fear," says Serra. "It would take long to tell what was done to encourage him, but all in vain. And as soon as he set foot on land he armed himself with a firm determination not to embark again. His wife begged and I urged, but we could not budge him. And there he is remaining till he has an opportunity to come by land."12 Consequently Don Pedro Castan sailed on the voyage in the timid doctor's place. FRAY JUAN CRESPI The voyage had been slow and the Santiago did not reach Monterey till May 9. At three in the afternoon the vessel fired a salute; anchor was dropped in six fathoms; the Salve was sung to the Virgin, and another volley fired. To each salute the presidio guns gave response; at four o'clock Captain Fages went aboard the ship to pay his Official respects; and as he departed three of the ship's guns boomed again and the sailors shouted "Viva el Rey"—"Long live the King." All these details of ceremony the staid pilot E ste van Martinez gives us in his diary, a log that is mostly taken up with nautical terms not intelligible to the layman. At Monterey Fathers Juan Crespi and Tomas de la Peiia joined the expedition, named by Serra to serve as chaplains. Crespi was now fifty-three years old. He was worn by thousands of miles of horseback travel on land, and his voyage to America had proved him to be a poor sailor. Nevertheless, he resigned himself to obedience and undertook the hard service. Serra knew his man. The departure from Monterey caused a stir at the little outpost, for it was no everyday event. Before embarking the men of the crew were confessed. To see them off Serra trudged with the friars from Carmel over the hills and down the long slope to the presidio, where also were MISSIONARY EXPLORER Fathers Palou and Murguia. At the beach they embraced, Crespi and Pena said good-bye, and went on board. This was on June 6. Anchors were raised and the next day the Santiago was towed from the harbor. But they reckoned without Aeolus. They had scarcely set sail when a contrary wind drove them back into the harbor. In this the pious saw the hand of God, for on the 8th the Principe arrived with the latest news from San Bias. This of course occasioned another delay, and while they waited the chaplains visited the friars on land. Jehovah was now pitted against the god of the winds. At the request of Perez, the seaman, Mass was sung to Our Lady. Serra officiated; Friars Crespi, Pena, Palou, Murguia and Du- metz made up the choir. There on the slope of the deep-hued bay, on the spot where one hundred and seventy-two years before Vizcaino had landed, the rich harmonies of the majestic Church melody voiced the hopes and the prayers of the prospective voyagers, eager yet half afraid. A picnic dinner on the beach by friars and officers gave a festive touch, offset the same day by a tinge of sadness cast by the death of the boatswain on board the ship. His body was sent ashore for burial, where presumably it still rests, in the Campo Santo of the presidial church of San Carlos. His clothing was sold "for his FRAY JUAN CRESPI burial and for the good of his soul." On the llth the Santiago was towed out of the harbor once more and the voyage was begun de veras. Crespi's instructions, like Pena's, required him to report only his observations on land, but he decided to keep a diary of the sea voyage, when weather and his inescapable sea-sickness permitted. The Santiago was breaking new sea paths. Not for one hundred and seventy years, not since the famed voyage of Vizcaino, had the Spaniards examined by sea the coasts beyond Monterey. The Manila galleon, 'tis true, coming east, usually sighted Cape Mendocino, and steered thence southward, but these were commercial and not exploring voyages, and the galleons stuck to a course familiar by long use. Crespi's diary of the journey, like his others, therefore, has the interest always attached to "firstness" in discovery.13 Still the sailing was unfavorable. For two weeks the winds were inconstant, weak, or contrary, and the weather misty. Four days after sailing the Santiago was wafted back once more almost to the starting point. By the 24th it had been driven south below 34°, the latitude of Los Angeles. San Bias now was a better gamble than Alaska. Next day, however, the sky cleared and they began to gain altitude. The good winds continued, but most of the way the shut-in hori- MISSIONARY EXPLORER zon was so lowering with clouds, fog, and mist that "it caused great horror and fear, navigating unknown seas." The monotony of the dreary northward voyage in the crowded ship was broken by various diversions, chiefly drab-hued. Whenever the timid sun appeared the pilots set up their instruments and observed the latitude. On Sundays the chaplains preached and sometimes the sailors took communion. One day a sick sailor received the sacrament of extreme unction. The fickle winds shifted and the course of the craft became a dizzy zigzag. More than once Aeolus balked and the ship was becalmed on the wide ocean waste. A bright rainbow followed by a squall deserved mention in Crespi's diary. Now some sea lions were sighted; then some birds in the air suggested that land was near. Often in the higher latitudes the mist turned to downright rain, and then the sailors from the southland huddled with numb fingers and chattering teeth. As the winds got better the skies became heavier. The sailors became downcast, but Perez held on, and when on July 9th the pilots announced latitude 45° all.were "delighted." Good breezes now wafted the Santiago rapidly north and six days later she was above latitude 51°. This July 15 was a decisive day in the voyage. Bucareli's instructions said sixty degrees, then FRAY JUAN CRESPI to the coast. But even viceregal commands must be construed with reason. Perez called a council in which it was decided to approach land. The winds so contrary early in the voyage were now driving him rapidly north, and he feared lest he might not be able to get back home. The water supply was low, "some hogsheads with two barrels, some with one, and others entirely empty." The crew was dispirited and weak from cold and illness. To the simple sailors with Perez the terrors of the uncharted North Pacific were no less real than those which cowed the crews of Columbus when he ventured across the mysterious Sea of the West. To the officers assembled these seemed reasons enough for veering to the shore, even though they were nine wide degrees short of the goal marked on the map by the hard-driving Bucareli.* The talked-of moment seemed now at hand. As preparation for taking possession of the country the carpenters made a wooden cross. This standard must proclaim to all comers God, the King, and the year, so it bore the inscriptions INRI—Carolus III Hispaniarum Rex—Aflo de 1774. (Jesus of Nazareth, King of the Jews —Carlos III, King of the Spains—The Year 1774.) As they approached the coast they still * Since the instructions required him to go to 60° he considered that this decision needed an explanation. The above is the one that he gave (Perez to Bucareli, Monterey, August 31, 1774. MS.). MISSIONARY EXPLORER gained altitude, and on July 18 when land was first seen they were in 53° 43'. For yet two days more Perez worked northward, "without seeing sun or stars." On the 20th he stood in front of Santa Margarita Point, the northernmost tip of Queen Charlotte Island, in latitude 55°, according to his estimate. This was another memorable day in the voyage—indeed this day and the next, of all the days, were given the most space in Crespi's diary. Friar Juan gives a graphic account of experiences here at this "farthest north" of the Perez voyage. As the Santiago approached on the 20th the smokes of many fires could be seen on land. Then from the roadstead a canoe sallied forth. The occupants were singing, and while seven men rowed the eighth, a painted barbarian, stood up in the boat, danced, and threw feathers into the water—driving off strange devils, perhaps. Their singing reminded Crespi of the natives of New California. As they made a turn around the vessel, from the cabin the Spaniards called them to come near. Suspicious at first, when coaxed with bright colored handkerchiefs, biscuits, and bread, they drew close enough to seize the tantalizing gifts. When a rope was thrown down they declined to climb up, but by holding on they gleefully waterplaned behind the vessel for a goodly FRAY JUAN CRESPI stretch. Later another canoe approached the vessel for presents and barter. After nightfall a third canoe-load came on a begging cruise and by their yelling and singing disturbed evening prayers on board. Next day a whole fleet, bearing more than two hundred persons, swarmed and swirled around the vessel eager to trade. Some sang, others strummed a wooden instrument like a drum. Some of the canoes were twelve yards in the keel and held twenty men. One contained only women who rowed and steered "as well as the most dextrous sailors." Two bold natives went aboard, marveled at the wonders of the ship, and were shown the image of Our Lady. Two sailors in return delighted the natives by leaping into the canoes and dancing with the occupants. The young women especially gazed at them with admiring eyes. Two red-letter days were these in the lives of the natives, to be recounted round many a campfire, no doubt, until in after years the visits of the white men became all too frequent. Crespi's notes on these early Canadians are unique, for the Perez expedition marks their first recorded contact with Europeans. "They are very fat," he writes, "of a good appearance, red and white in color,* with long hair; and they * Perez said they had "blue and particolored eyes" (Perez to Bucareli, August 31, 1774). MISSIONARY EXPLORER cover themselves with skins of beaver and sea lions." This was gratifying to our good friar, who sometimes had had to close his eyes as he passed among naked villagers in California. "All or most of them wear rush hats, well woven, with a pointed crown. They are not at all noisy, and they seemed to us to be mild and good tempered." . The excellent water craft of the islanders attracted his attention. "These canoes looked to us as though they were all one piece, very well hewn. They were made with keels, almost in the same way as those used in the Channel of Santa Barbara, except that these have a rear deck, which the others lack, and the prow is not open, as is customary in the Channel. The oars are well made. We saw in the canoes two very long harpoons and two axes, one of which looked to me, by the way it shone, to be made of iron, but I could not be sure. We saw that the point of one of the harpoons was of iron, in the form of a pike." The handiwork of the natives caught Crespi's keen eye. There were fur blankets made of tanned skins; others of woven hair in several colors, with fringes; mats made of palm fiber; fine hats and ordinary hats, wooden trays well carved in relief with figures of animals, birds, and men; wooden spoons; a spoon made of horn; FRAY JUAN CRESPI woven belts; carved and painted pine boxes with cord hinges, inlaid with shell work. Of food they had only dried fish. With due propriety the friar devoted another word to the women. This time it was to their lip-sticks. They wore wooden discs pendant from the lips making them look as if their tongues were hanging out. Crespi was intrigued by the mechanics of the thing. "They manage it with great facility and simply by a movement of the lip they raise it and cover the mouth and part of the nose." Here the friar felt the time- old man's puzzle. Why this feminine trap? "We do not know what their purpose is, whether it be to make themselves ugly or to adorn themselves. I am inclined to the latter." He adds, "We were interested also to see that the women wear rings on their fingers and bracelets of iron and copper."* The sailors traded for trophies to show their friends at San Bias. The conical hats and the curiously made mats were favorite acquisitions. One "obtained for a large knife that he gave * Thirteen years after Perez' voyage Captain George Dixon, in the Queen Charlotte, visited the Indians at almost precisely the same place, and his report of the natives is strikingly like that given by Crespi. It is contained in Captain George Dixon, A Voyage Bound the World . . . in 1785, 1786, 1787, and 1788 (ed. 2, London, 1789). Like the friar, Dixon was much interested in the lip-sticks of the women. He published a drawing of one of them, and of one of the horn spoons.** liv MISSIONARY EXPLORER them a well plaited rush hat of several colors; the crown was conical in shape, about a span high, and the brim of the hat was not more than six inches wide. Another sailor bought from them for a large knife a very pretty little mat a yard square, woven of fine palms of two colors, white and black, which, being woven in little squares, makes a good and handsome piece." In return for these articles iron was the thing most coveted by the natives. Some of the sailors got more than they paid for. More than one "who bought cloaks passed the night badly because they covered themselves with them and had to scratch, on account of the bites of the vermin which these heathen breed in their clothing." The commander distributed presents, and got in return some curios which he sent to the viceroy. For three days Perez tried to round Santa Margarita Point, but the swift current prevented. To the north he made out Cape Santa Maria Magdalena (Point Muzon, on Prince of Wales Island). Between these two capes lay Dixon Entrance, the "bay, pocket, or strait," whose waters checked his advance. On July 22 Perez made observations and found that he was exactly in 55°. In his maneuvers he had been, or seen, as high as 55° 49'. His latitudes were obviously too high. He tried to land, but wind and current made it impossible. Divine aid was FRAY JUAN CRESPI needed, and next day a Novena was begun to San Juan Nepomuceno—evidently Perez's patron saint—but the weather did not improve. So the prow of the Santiago was turned homeward, to reconnoiter the coast as it went.* The southward voyage was even rougher and darker than the northward cruise. Dangerous winds and cloudy weather prevented a close approach to the shore. But numerous points on the coast were seen even though at a distance, and one discovery was notable. A few days out they saw and named Sierra de San Cristobal on Queen Charlotte Island, but were unable to land. On August 6 the shore of Vancouver Island was seen. On the 8th anchor was dropped at San Lorenzo harbor, that Nootka Sound which fifteen years later became such a bone of contention between Spain and England. Of this disputed morsel of North America Perez was the discoverer. The southern point of the harbor he named San Estevan, in honor of second pilot Estevan Martinez, he who later played first role in the international drama that was staged on those shores. Indians were seen, and trade flourished as at Santa Margarita. * ' • Tired now of trying to land, accomplishing nothing, I decided to continue exploring south from the said latitude of 55 degrees, keeping as close as possible to the coast, but neither the wind nor the cloudy weather permitted me to do so till the 28th of the same month" (Perez to Bucareli, August 31). lvi MISSIONARY EXPLORER Momentary fair weather revived Perez's hope of being able to land and take possession. Here the first cross should be erected. All hands were as eager as the commander to put their feet on terra firma. Next day they put out the launch to go ashore, but Fate forbade. A west wind arose, dragged the anchor, and threatened to drive the Santiago on the rocks. In grave peril of shipwreck Perez cut the cable, sacrificed his anchor, and set sail in a storm, towing the launch. So rough was the sea and so weak were his men now from scurvy that they could scarcely get the launch aboard. Keeping gingerly near the coast, as they edged along south they saw snow-covered Mount Olympus and named it Cerro Nevado de Santa Rosalia. From here forward the shore was frequently seen, but owing to almost constant dark weather and contrary winds no landing was made, and the cross so laboriously carved by the carpenters had an unexpectedly long voyage. On the way down it rained several dreary days, the weather was cold, and the sailors suffered terribly from scurvy. One man died. "I also," says Crespi, "have been so badly affected in the mouth that I have not been able to celebrate Mass, but my companion celebrated and gave the sermon." When Cape Mendocino was sighted everybody was cheered, for the name of this landmark FRAY JUAN CRESPI had a familiar sound. But when next day the ship was becalmed spirits again went down; another Novena was begun, and that night the sailors made a pious promise to the Holy Mother if she would take them safely to port. But pulses rose again for port was near. Men shouted when the Farallones were seen; and next day there were louder cheers when the white adobes of the presidio came in sight. The galliard was hoisted to the foremast and the pennant flung to the breeze. From shore a launch was put out; the Salve and three cannon salutes on board were answered by the presidio. Here Crespi* landed, home from his last long exploration. On November 2 the sea-worn Santiago sailed into the harbor of San Bias, whence she had started nearly a year before. Perez and his men had not reached sixty degrees, and they had not planted the cross on land, but they had made a plucky voyage into unknown seas. Bucareli complimented the brave Alferez with words of appreciation; the king, in a more substantial way, recognized his merit by promotion. Bancroft's estimate of Perez's achievement is a sound one: "In this expedition Juan Perez, though he had not reached latitude 60°, as instructed, nor discovered any good ports, nor * Pena also. MISSIONARY EXPLORER landed anywhere to take possession for Spain, nor found either foreign establishments or proof of their non-existence, had still gained the honor of having discovered practically the whole Northwest Coast. He had surveyed a large portion of the two great islands that make up the coast of British Columbia, giving the first description of the natives; he had seen and described, though vaguely and from a distance, nearly all of the Washington coast, and a large part of the Oregon. He had given to his nation whatever of credit and territorial claims may be founded on the mere act of first discovery."* Crespi made no more long journeys. The remaining eight years of his life were spent in quiet but active missionary work at Carmel. But his travels became justly famous among his fellow-friars. Soon after his death Palou chanced one day to be speaking to Serra of the dearth of volunteers for the missionary service. With a sigh the weary president replied: "If the friars of our Holy Province who knew the late Fray Juan Crespi could but see what he accomplished, and the great harvest which he was able to gather, great numbers of them would be encouraged to come. If they were but to read his diaries it would be enough to move many of them to the point of leaving fatherland * Bancroft, H. H., History of the Northwest Coast, pp. 156-157. FRAY JUAN CRESPI and monastery to undertake the journey in order to have a share in this vineyard of the Lord."* Crespi's travels and toils in California may be summed up in the simple words of Palou, his lifelong friend and fellow-missionary: He was the first missionary to tread its soil, for he started in the year 1769 from the mission of Purisima with the first division of the land expedition which discovered the harbor of San Diego. He continued afterward with the expedition by land until it discovered this harbor of Our Seraphic Father San Francisco, whence he returned with the expedition to San Diego. Shortly after his arrival there he set out again with the expedition in search of Monterey, and having found the harbor he took part in the founding of the presidio and mission of San Carlos in company with the reverend father president. In the second year after the founding of that mission he set out with Commander Don Pedro Fages to explore this harbor, in which expedition were discovered the great river or rivers which flow into this harbor, through whose outlet they descend to the sea. While they were engaged in this exploration they had to turn back, as is related in his diary. After returning to Monterey, having traveled one hundred and forty leagues, he was sent by the reverend father president to San Diego to prevent the abandonment of that port, threatened on account of the lack of provisions, which was relieved * Pal6u, Vida del Padre Serra, dedicatory letter. MISSIONARY EXPLORER by the supplies sent by the commander with that father. Shortly before the end of the year he again went up to Monterey, and in the year 1774 he embarked with Captain Don Juan Perez in the frigate Santiago on the first expedition to the high latitudes of the coasts of this sea. After his return he remained in the mission of San Carlos until God took him away to reward him for all these labors, from which he had suffered in so many journeys by sea and land, and I do not doubt he will have great glory in heaven, for they were all directed to these spiritual conquests. Besides being a very exemplary and humble friar, for I knew him since he was a boy, as we were reared together and studied together from the very first rudiments until we finished theology, he was highly regarded among all his fellow pupils for his mystic and perfect religion. For this reason I have no doubt that he is enjoying Qod, and that he will pray to Him for the conversion of all these heathen, for which end he labored so hard. THE CRESPI MANUSCRIPTS THE DIARIES Diaries of all three of Crespi's exploring journeys were included in Pal6u's Noticias de Nueva California. The only manuscript of this work known to be extant is that made by Figueroa. When Pal6u left California in 1785 he took the original of his Noticias with him and filed it in the archives of the College of San Fernando, in the City, of Mexico, of which he became guardian or president. Shortly before he died an order came from Madrid asking for the compilation of a great body of documents on which to base a monumental history of New Spain. Pursuant to this order Fray Francisco Garcia Figueroa, of the College in San Cosme, in Mexico, compiled thirty-two volumes of Memorias para la Historic, de Nueva Espana. Two of these volumes comprised Pal6u's Noticias. The transcript, made from Pal6u's autograph manuscript "with all the exactitude permitted by the wretched and difficult handwriting of the original,'' was certified by Father Figueroa himself on December 3, 1792. Six decades afterward, in 1857, the Noticias was published by the government of Mexico in the great collection of Documentos para la Historia de Mexico. It was printed from the Figueroa manuscript, for Pal6u's holograph had disappeared. Seventeen years still later, in 1874, a small edition—one hundred copies—was published in San Francisco by John T. Doyle. Not knowing the whereabouts of the manuscript, Doyle merely reprinted the Mexican text. Some twenty years ago I examined the original Figueroa manuscript in the archives of Mexico. A comparison of the printed Mexico edition with the manuscript showed a multitude of variations. Palou wrote a direct and simple style. The Mexican editor, a belated G6ngorist, freely substituted "elegant" phrases for Pal6u's plain terms. In most cases the sense was not greatly altered, but the resulting text was by no means a faithful copy, and Doyle's text, as a matter of course, has the same defects. Indeed, Doyle's text was not well proof-read, and contains more errors than the Mexican edition. When in 1926, therefore, I published an English version of Pal6u's history (Paldu's New California) I based the translation directly on the Figueroa MS. and not on the printed texts. That manuscript was laboriously compared with the editions of the Mexican editor and Doyle, which I designated respectively as M. and D. To THE CRESPI MANUSCRIPTS justify departure in many places from these printed versions, and incidentally to help establish a correct text, most of the principal variations of M. and D. from the manuscript—several hundred in number—were indicated in the Editorial Notes. The Crespi diaries thus scattered through Pal6u's Noticias are here reprinted from my English edition of that work. Of the principal diary, that of the Portola expedition, the Figueroa manuscript is the only version known to be extant. Of the other diaries there are manuscripts in the Arehivo General de Indias, at Sevilla. Several copies were usually made of such documents, but they were seldom identical in all respects, and so it was with these. Although in essentials they are not greatly different, the archive versions vary from the Figueroa texts in numerous minor particulars. For this reason both the archive and the Figueroa texts of the Crespi diary of the Fages expedition are here printed. The Crespi letters here published are from the British Museum and the archives of Mexico. Two of them are included in the Appendices to my edition of Pal6u, but the others have never before been printed. With this explanation the manuscripts of the three diaries may be listed as follows: The Portola Expedition, 1769-1770 A. The Paldu-Figueroa MS.: "Diario del Viage, y descripci6n de Ios dilatados eaminos, que a mayor honrra y gloria de Dios N. S. y de N. Rey (que D. G.) hieieron Ios Misioneros Apostolicos del Colegio de San Fernando de Mexico . . . desde la Mision frontera llamada N. S. de Ios Angeles, hasta Ios Puertos de San Diego y Monterey, toda de tierra de Gentilidad en Ios afios del Senor de 1769, y 1770," etc. (printed here). See p. 53, Note. The Fages Expedition op 1772 B. The Sevilla MS.: "Diario de la Expedizion que desde la Misi6n de San Carlos de Monterey emprendio el Reverendo Padre Fray Juan Crespi, Predieador Apostolico del Colegio de San Fernando de Megico, en eompania del Senor Capitan y Soldados del Presidio en demanda del Puerto de San Francisco, por el mes de Marzo de 1772." This is the original official draft of the diary. It is in the Arehivo General de Indias (at Sevilla), 104-6-17. Cited in Chapman's Catalogue, No. 1925. This version and C. tell essentially the same story, but they supplement each other at many interesting points. Mii THE CRESPI MANUSCRIPTS C. The Paldu-Figueroa MS.: "Diario que se form6 en el registro q. se hizo del Puerto de Nuestro Padre S." Francisco." (Printed here in part.) D. Crespi's Map: Crespi made a most interesting map of the results of this expedition, the original manuscript of which is in the Arehivo General de Indias. It has been reproduced in Wagner, The Spanish Southwest, Robertson, The Harbor of St. Francis, and Pal6u's New California (Bolton, editor). It is reproduced in this volume, also. The P£rez Expedition, 1774 E. The Sevilla MS.: "Afio 1774. Diario que yo, Fr. Juan Crespi Misionero del App.co Colegio de Propaganda Fide de S." Fernando de Mexico, formo del Viage de la Fragata de su Mag.d nombrada Santiago, alias La Nueva Galicia, mandada por su Capitan y Alf erez de Fragata D.n Juan Perez, que por orden del Exe."10 S. Baylio Frey D. Antonio Maria Bucareli y Ursua Virrey de la Nueva Espafia va a haeer de las Costas del Norte de Monte-Bey, que se halla en la Altura de 36 grados y medio del Norte, hasta Ios 60 grados a lo menos." Printed by Griffin in the Historical Society of Southern California Publications, Vol. II, Part I, Los Angeles, 1891. F. The Paldu-Figueroa MS.: "Diario de la Expedicion de Mar que hizo la Fragata Santiago en la que fueron Ios Padres Predic* Fr. Juan Crespi y Fr. Tomas de la Pena." (Printed here.) See p. 366, Note. THE LETTERS The Crespi letters here printed are from three manuscript collections. The letters to Palou, June 9, 1769 and February 5, 1770, and to Father Andres, June 11, 1770, are from the British Museum (Add. MS. 13974. Copia de Cartas escritas por el P. P.or Fr. Juan Crespi.) These are official copies of letters sent by Guardian Verger to his superior (see p. 21, Note). They are printed here without Verger's annotations. The letter to Father Andres, June 22, 1769, is from the original in the Museo Nacional de Mexico (Documentos Relativos a las Misiones de Californias, MS. Quarto Series, Vol. I). The letter to Joseph de Galvez, February 9, 1770, is from the original in the Arehivo General y Publico, Mexico (Californias, Vol. 66). The letters of June 9, 1769 and February 6, 1770, were printed in Pal6u's New California (Bolton, editor, Berkeley, 1926), Vol. IV, pp. 253-265, 269-285. The others have never before been printed. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION AS TOLD IN CRESPI'S LETTERS THE JOURNEY TO SAN DIEGO BAY FEAT JUAN CRESPI TO PRAY FRANCISCO PALOU SAN DIEGO, JUNE 9, 1769.* HAIL JESUS, MART AND JOSEPH I To mt Reverend Father Lector, Fellow-Student and Pbesujent, Fr. Francisco Palou. My very dear fellow-student and friend: I shall be very glad if this letter finds your Reverence in the perfect health that my deep affection wishes for you. I give thanks to God for this favor to me, and as always I am awaiting orders for your further pleasure. My dear friend: On the 22d of March, Wednesday of Holy Week, between two and three o'clock in the afternoon, I reached Villacata well and without any injury to my health. The two boys whom I brought with me and the soldier Islas were likewise sound. Arriving at Villacata I found the captain well and ready to leave on Holy Thursday, although we did not start on that day. I very much desired to write your Reverence from that place before our departure, but the captain's impatience and the fact of my having just arrived at the place did not permit it. The 24th of March, Good Friday, we left Villacata in the afternoon, starting our journey in search of the port of San Diego. The 14th •British Museum. Add MS. 13974. Copia de Cartas escritas por P. P.or Fr. Juan Crespi. 2 FRAY JUAN CRESPI of May, the Feast of Espiritu Santo, we arrived with the greatest success at this pleasant port of San Diego, all in good health, thanks to the Lord, having spent fifty-two days on the way, with not a few misadventures on such an unknown road, in danger every instant, since it was all so thickly populated with numerous Indians; but thanks to the Lord we suffered no harm anywhere on the way. When we arrived at this port of San Diego we found in it the two packetboats, San Carlos and El Principe. The latter arrived here the llth of April and the former the 29th of the same month. We found the crews of both ships and the soldiers from the San Carlos filling a hospital on shore, recovering from the disease of loanda or scurvy. Up to the present twenty-one have died from the crews of both ships, besides one or two of the soldiers on the San Carlos. At this time the sailors on El Principe are very few, since those who are somewhat stronger, and able to walk and do a little work, are only about six or seven, while of the soldiers only three are well, all the rest being sick, many dying, the majority with cramps in the legs or all over the body. With all this trouble your Reverence can easily see how well fitted this sea expedition is to continue its course to Monterey. At present only those of us who came by land are in good health. We found here Fathers Parron, Vizcaino, and Gomez, who, although they have been a little indisposed, are all well once more. Of all our band the one who is frailest and weakest is Father Parron, who says that he will stay at this port. Of those on the two vessels the strongest are THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION the lieutenant of the volunteers, Sr. Costanzo, the captain of El Principe, and his pilot. Although some of them have been ill, they have now recovered, and with the few that I brought they are the only ones from the two vessels that are able to do anything. The San Carlos spent three months and nineteen days on the voyage, since they went as far as thirty-five degrees in search of this port, and the same thing happened to El Principe, although, as I have observed, this port is only thirty-two degrees and forty-two minutes north latitude. As a matter of fact, they are disembarking the leather-jacket soldiers from El Principe, in order to send it to San Bias to inform the visitor-general of what occurred on the sea expedition. Meanwhile, if the San Joseph* does not come, or the sick do not get relief, I do not know how the commanders will manage to go on to Monte Rey. God has seen fit to send us the gift of patience and submission to the Most High Providence of the Lord, since He willed that those of us who came by land should arrive at this port in good health. I am much troubled because I do not know when our father lector president and the governor will come. When we reached this port, since there was no fresh water near, we went back about a league, still in sight of it, where the fathers who arrived the first of the month had already investigated. We found there a good sized riverf which empties into the sea through an estuary which the ships use as a * This supply vessel was lost at sea, never being heard of after it set out on its voyage. fSan Diego River. 4 FRAY JUAN CRESPI watering-station. This river has a very large, broad plain on its banks, which seems to be of very good soil, with many willows, some poplars, and some alders, although so far it has not been possible to examine it properly. If the river is permanent it may prove in time to be the best of those discovered in all California. On the banks of this river, which are thickly covered with willows, there are many Castilian rose bushes with very fragrant roses, which I have held in my hand and smelled. All the plain is dotted over with wild grapevines, which look as if they had been planted, and at present their many branches are in bloom. We have been in this port since the second day of the Feast of Espiritu Santo,16 but we have not yet been able to begin the mission, and we are much troubled because the river, which flows through the plain and which has very good, clear water, as we have observed every day, is drying up to such a degree that although two weeks ago when we arrived we saw it flowing with an abundant stream, it has now diminished so that it hardly runs at all, and they say now that they can cross it dry shod. If this continues it will be necessary to look for another place to establish the mission and obtain irrigation. This port is a large, level place in the midst of great meadows and plains, with very good pasturage for all kinds of cattle, and not a stone is found for variety. All the port is well populated with a large number of villages of Indians, too clever, wide awake, and business-like for any Spaniard to get ahead of them. The men are naked and almost all are very much painted. They are well armed with THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION bows and quivers of arrows. We are camped near one of their villages. They received us in peace, thanks to the Lord, and so far there has been no trouble, but strict care is necessary, since they are great thieves. The women, as many as we have seen, are all properly clothed with a thick apron from the waist in front, and skins of deer or seals behind, and some have a garment made of hare or rabbit skins in the shape of a cape with which they cover their breasts and the rest of their bodies, in the manner of a blanket. We suffered great cold on the way and it still prevails. The northwest and west winds are very cold—too cold. But in spite of it all we have kept our health throughout, except one soldier, who became ill during the week of our departure from Villacata. I administered all the sacraments to him as he seemed to be in the last extremity, but, thanks to God, he recovered and at present is safe and sound. Many of the fifty-one Christian Indians who accompanied us were sick. I buried five on the way, and almost all the rest absconded on the road. But this is not to be wondered at, since they did not give them food where there was mescal, which was lacking most of the way. When this failed they had to get along with only a little atole, although the need of water was more urgent than that of atole. Since I could not remedy this at all, it is not strange that they returned to their missions, or that of the whole number only thirteen reached this port, or that some of them were sick. 6 FRAY JUAN CRESPI I do not know how to tell your Reverence what we suffered from hunger on this journey, because the captain brought only sixteen tierces of very old flour and ten packs of jerked beef. This was all the food that was brought; and if he had left eight other tierces of the flour which he did not wish to bring, we surely should have perished from starvation halfway along the road. From what he did bring we had two meals a day of poor tortillas, which were mostly bran, and a bit of roasted jerked beef that was so hard and so salty that only necessity could make one eat it, except some days when they boiled it in water. On those days we considered it a great treat to have a little stew, which was more like brine than anything else, but the beef, which softened with cooking, tasted as if it were the finest chicken. This was all the food we had on the journey. The beef gave out eleven days before we reached this port, and the soldiers got along with a single dry tortilla, although mine lasted until we arrived here. This, without any seasoning or sauce, and the morning chocolate, which was more like a poor syrup than anything else, was our only food. Praise God for preserving our health. Almost all the road was through the mountain, or mountains, some of them very rough, but we found water and good pasturage in them on every day's march. We always traveled on the mountains because the captain had a complete aversion for going down to the seashore, until finally the mountain forced us to descend because of its height, roughness, and steepness, and he was obliged, in THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION spite of himself, to allow us to come down to the beach. In my opinion all our good fortune in not perishing was due to this, because the beach gave us a good and very easy passage by land, was well supplied with pasturage, and had sufficient fresh water for all. We reached this port with only three tierces of flour and part of another, and this only because when the first eight tierces were used up strict orders were given that the two tortillas that were distributed as rations at the two meals should be made very thin, so that we might not perish entirely. Words fail me in which to tell your Reverence of the danger that this man put us in because of his whim, since, without knowing what road we had to travel over, he left at Villacata as much flour as he brought with him, considerable corn, four or five boxes of chocolate, and four or five jars of wine and brandy, of which he brought only his case full, although there were a great plenty of mules, for in all one hundred and eighty-nine have come. Moreover, instead of the fifty-two days that we spent on the way, the journey could have been made in a month or a little over. I do not know why, except that it suited his fancy, we were in some spots two days, and in some even two and a half, as is seen by what I wrote in my diary, a copy of which will not fail to reach your Reverence in time, together with the latitudes and directions on the occasions when they could be observed on the way. I have reckoned the distance from Santa Maria to this port as one hundred and twenty-eight leagues, if 8 FRAY JUAN CRESPI and from Villacata as one hundred and eight* leagues and a half. On all the journey we found about ten good sites, with sufficient land and water for establishing missions, and with soil suitable to raise everything. Many sites have marshes and moist land, as will be seen in the diary in good time. The first place was San Isidoro in thirty-one degrees and five minutes. It has much moist land and some other land for irrigation, with a very good stream of water somewhat larger than that which flows near the Hospice of Tepic, well-wooded with white poplars, many willows, underbrush, and pasturage for the cattle. This stream flows to the northwest by west at the foot of a very high mountain. Six or seven leagues beyond Rio de San Isidoro we came upon a large river very much blocked up and choked with trees. I called it Rio de San Dionisio, and although we saw no land good for agriculture where we crossed, we learned from some Indians by signs that it emptied into the sea, and that two or three streams of water joined it; and that beyond the mountain there was a great confluence ; hence we did not doubt that near the shore there might be some plains that would be suitable for establishing a mission. Two leagues beyond the river of San Dionisio we came upon a stream which I called the San Leon. It has a flow of water perhaps as large as the San Joseph Comundu; and although we did not see any arable land in passing, we were persuaded that some would be found on exploring. * See Crespi's letter to Father Andres, p. 15. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION I will mention only one other place, the one which I called San Francisco Solano, since in time you will read about all of them in the diary. This San Francisco Solano is a large valley, which is in 32° and 12', and is entered from the north. In the center of the level ground it has two springs about two hundred feet apart, one larger than the other, and from the two there is a good flow of water. It has also abundant land and pasturage, and I do not doubt that one hundred bushels of wheat could be sown there. Moreover, it is well wooded. The captain and the soldiers told me that there are to the west-northwest of this valley many marshes and much tule land, and that a large amount of moist land could be planted. From the Christian Indians I also learned that by going in the same direction to the beach, which is not very far from this valley, one finds there a large body of water flowing like a river. Besides this, to the east and northeast, two rivers can be made out in the distance, flowing down from the mountain between green, wooded banks, which we conjectured might also have good water, although we could not explore them. Of all the good places this seems to me the most advantageous. And thus your Reverence has now a good site for establishing the mission of San Francisco Solano, which will be about eighty leagues distant from Villacata, according to my reckoning. Besides, this is the eighth of the good locations, counting from Villacata, while from San Francisco Solano to this place there are only two others, namely San Jorge and San Juan Bautista. This last also might be a good mission. II '< 10 FRAY JUAN CRESPI It is fifteen leagues distant from this port of San Diego, but I could not take its latitude. It was there that we began to get news of the ships, in some well populated villages of Indians who crowded around us and were very peaceful but wide-awake. All along the road from Villacata, as we continually saw from the mountain, there were many footprints, and many well worn paths of the Indians, but, although we came upon many villages, we did not find a very large number of people because the greater part of the mountain is very barren, so that the poor wretches do not have anything to eat. Even the mescal, their daily bread, is not to be found in the greater part of the mountains, and those that we crossed are so very poor that the numerous tribes of Indians on the two slopes are forced to get their living from the sea. On all the mountain we saw no trees that produce food except some on a peak in the distance that appeared to be pines. Indeed, all the trees that we came upon were on streams, and as far as we have penetrated the mountains continue even barer than those about the old missions. When we descended to the shore because the mountain had closed our road by its height and steepness, our Gracious Lady wished it to be at the great Bay of the Virgins.* The map does not show it quite correctly, because it represents it with one island, whereas it has two islands, with all the headlands or farallones that the map shows. The bay is about twenty-eight * Todos Santos Bay. Port San Quentin, a little north of Todos Santos, was called by Vizcaino the Bay of Eleven Thousand Virgins, in allusion to the Virgins of Cologne. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 11 leagues from this port, and is in thirty-two degrees and fourteen minutes north latitude. When we reached the coast we began to encounter what we had expected, that is, very well populated Indian villages. From the tops of the nearby hills Indians well armed with their bows and quivers began to shout at us, and although we made signs to them to come to us and that we did not intend to harm them, they never let themselves be seen at close range. For three days one village of twenty- nine Indians followed us along the hill-tops, shouting all the time and too often with gestures of wanting to shoot us with their arrows. Indeed, on the second day they came so near us that they were almost within shooting distance. Fearing an ambush in some pass, the captain ordered the pack animals halted, and that all the soldiers should then show themselves with their shields and their arms in their hands, drawn up in battle array. All the Indians drew up on a small hill in the same valley a little more than a gunshot away. The captain gave orders that none of our men should say a word, but all should be on the lookout. All the Indians were shouting at us and making gestures of intending to shoot us, until finally, although they were not within shooting distance, they shot three arrows into the air, which fell not far from the captain and the soldiers. At this demonstration the captain and another soldier fired twice without hitting the Indians because they were out of range. For this reason they retreated to the top of the Sierra, which was near, and gradually disappeared, giving a loud war whoop. 12 FRAY JUAN CRESPI We were delayed more than two hours in this affray, but when the Indians had disappeared we continued our journey, giving thanks to the Lord. The following day we came upon the river of San Juan Bautista, on which we found a village of very peaceful and friendly Indians, from whom we learned by signs that the port of San Diego was not very far away, and that the two ships were there, and that there were fathers dressed in habits like mine. From this settlement a number of Li- dians guided us from village to village until we reached this port, which, as I have said, is about fifteen leagues distant from the Rio de San Juan Bautista. Although I should like to enlarge upon this narrative more, I cannot, and although I intend to write to my dear Father Martinez, I shall not be able to do so at such length. Therefore I request you to show him this letter and beg him to consider it as his, and tell all the other father companions that I hope they are enjoying the best of health, begging them all most earnestly to keep me in mind in their sacred devotions, and to pray that we may arrive at the port of Monterey as soon as possible, although I do not know what means will be found, since almost all are sick, including the commander of the ships, Don Vicente Vila, and his pilot. Please, your Reverence, accept the warmest greetings from the fathers and the captain who are all in perfect health. I remain, your Reverence, as always, entirely yours, begging God that he may guard and keep you many years. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 13 From this port of San Diego, June 9, 1769. As always, your Reverence's most affectionate fellow student, friend, and humble servant, who honors you in all things. Feat Juan Crespi (Rubric). FRAY JUAN CRESPI TO FRAY JUAN ANDRES SAN DIEGO, JUNE 22, 1769.* HAIL JESUS, MARY AND JOSEPH! My Reverend Father Guardian, Fray Juan Andres :f I shall be indeed happy if at the time of receiving this letter your Reverence is enjoying very robust health. I, thank God, am enjoying this blessing, and I humbly place it at your feet for the fulfillment of orders to your satisfaction. On the 26th of February of this year, by order of the reverend father president, I left the mission of Purishna Concepcion,^ where I was missionary, and took the road to the north for the glorious conquest of the multitude of heathen who dwell in this hemisphere at the ports of San Diego and Monterey. On the 22d of March I arrived at Villacata, which is situated in the midst of the heathen, eighteen leagues from the frontier mission of Santa Maria, having traveled by land a distance of one hundred and eighty-two leagues from Purisima, from which I started, to the aforesaid place of Villacata. There I met Don Fernando de Rivera y Moncada, captain of this province and commander of this land expedition, who was awaiting me so that we might enter immediately among the heathen to look for this port of San Diego. * Museo Nacional de Mexico. Documentos Relativos a las Misiones de Californias. MS. (Quarto Series, Vol. I.) t Fray Juan Andres was Guardian, or Superior, of the College of San Fernando in Mexico City, from which came all the early Franciscans to Alta California. t Father Crespi's r California. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 15 On the 24th of March we set out from Villacata— the commander, twenty-five leather-jacket soldiers, three muleteers, and about fifty-two Christian Indians from the missions—taking the necessary provisions and a convoy of about one hundred and eighty mules and horses, while I alone accompanied the expedition for its spiritual administration. On the 14th of May, the Feast of Espiritu Santo, we arrived at this fine harbor of San Diego, all in good health, thanks to the Lord, nothing special having occurred on the road. To travel from Villacata to this port took us fifty-two days, most of the way through rugged and barren mountains such as are common in this Peninsula of California. The distance to this port, according to the computation which I have made in the diary which I have formed by order of the father president, is one hundred and * twenty-eight leagues and a half, counting from Santa Maria, the frontier of the heathen, which is eighteen leagues from Villacata, and consequently from Villacata whence we started to this port it is one hundred and ten leagues and a hah?.* Having arrived here on the day that I have just said, we found at anchor his Majesty's two packet- boats, the San Carlos and the Principe. The Principe had arrived in April, having taken about a month and a hah? for its voyage from Cape San Lucas. The San Carlos dropped anchor on the 29th of the same month of April, having spent in its voyage three months and nineteen days. We found erected on land a general hospital for the crew of * Li his letter to Pal6u he says 108% leagues from Villacata and 128 from Santa Maria. See pp. 7-8. 16 FRAY JUAN CRESPI both barks, and the twenty-five volunteer soldiers of the San Carlos. Up to the present time some twenty-three persons have died, most of them sailors, but including two of the soldiers mentioned. Nearly all of the members of the sea expedition still living are very sick with scurvy; only a few are able to stand, and only by a miracle can most of them escape. The commanders of the expedition, being in this difficulty, have determined that the Principe shall sail as soon as possible for San Bias to report what has happened to His Excellency the Viceroy and to the Senor Visitor-General.* I found here the father companions Father Viscaino, Father Parron, and Father Gomez, who had come with the two barks. They are all in good health, and since they will report everything more fully to your Reverence I shall not stop to trouble you further in this matter. We are momentarily expecting the arrival of the father president and the governor of this province by land, but as yet we have had no news of them whatever. May God be pleased to bring them in safety as soon as possible. The number of heathen in the whole country is truly large, but the land we find more barren the farther inland we go, and greatly lacking in food for the poor, miserable heathen. Although the daily bread of the unfortunates who live in this land is mescal, it is lacking in most of the country as far as my eyes have seen, for which reason most of the heathen resort to the two coasts in order to live on sea food. As soon as we reached this opposite coastf we came * Joseph de Galvez. t He means the Pacific Ocean, which was reached near Todos Santos Bay. ^m, (/.fr^ulJ^t* tmlmV^&.^^AJi&^tZ^.J J Cam',** »***. J- $J**lt.ma^- «/«- azLltn^ C^,~u,',Cj J.Z_ m^^mm*%~*/g-JL ik^f^ HB <t^%Cr,^£> JU ^VBLW mm, JLmX «**»***, Jar> oSuac 1 JL.Q. Jjf.'SLM. MX £~~,2U wzt .jjC'uh Helen. /jaaMa. 2*. tuh»?»u%uul*n . S'la. Latox.2*. A. triayv mUa-eliJa. m &: ■^K H H TsVtvCsltsmMt t3/a{x.it-£ rwtftJLzJL wj^ZW tie. Jiusxlo tL fa*? QDiuto 42 tLaj peccut mWmK%. &$*. tfdLcj*. jl *l,& jJL„ wm I £u>, H (I UmptAo- VA tim*fy> /iuAo unti. E - m 'fe~U-. £& ^%£tJ?)J&Aa.jj£&a£mJ JiUyJio vJL ConiioMufiMu audi. ViHuuaiu. a, £jttJitexe» Jeicu cCiuiio y^uU ESP!!! JA~.JA-.vXL «te,L?wxk; uni^^a^un <&£#??< THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 17 across many villages. All the heathen men go naked, with no other clothing than that which nature gave them. The women go modestly covered in front with strings which they wear tied at the waist and behind with skins of deer or seal; they also cover the breasts and the rest of the body with a sort of cape made of hare and rabbit skins which they join together very skillfully. Both men and women are much painted, and the men have the lobes of their ears pierced, from which they hang sea- shells. All are well armed with quivers and arrows. All the heathen of the interior are wide awake and are great traders. They are docile, although along the road one village of twenty-nine heathen followed us with signs of wishing to shoot arrows at us. They followed us for three days, and then shot at us, but not within range. Seeing this demonstration ouf soldiers fired two shots at them, but no one was wounded on either side, and thereupon the heathen retired and left us in peace. This port of San Diego has been found by the pilots not to be in latitude 33 or 34 degrees as stated in ancient history, but only in 32 degrees and 42 minutes. When we arrived here we found a good river* running quite full about a league away, but in these few days it has entirely dried up. Yesterday, the 21st of the month, Father Viscaino and I, accompanied by the lieutenant of the troops, Don Pedro Fages, and the engineer, Don Miguel Costanzo, with seven or eight soldiers, went out to explore it. We followed the river, which runs through a valley with a good plain of land, which * San Diego River. "1 18 FRAY JUAN CRESPI narrows in parts to about half a league or a quarter of a league. It appears to be good arable land, and seems to have marshes or damp soil. The bed of the stream is full of trees, such as willows, poplars, and sycamores, but the river we found dry in many places, although in some parts there are pools and in others it flows a very little. We traveled about three leagues along its bed and plain, which continues in the same way, until we reached the place where it comes down from the Sierra through a narrow pass, but where the water still does not run.* We do not know whether this river could be used for irrigation or not, but if it depends on rainfall, as is the case in other parts, good seasonal plantings can be made, for it has plenty of land and good places for cattle with good grass. But in the whole region there is no building stone visible, and it seems that firewood also is scarce in the entire vicinity, as far as can be seen. It appears that in accordance with the orders of the father president, Fray Fernando Parron will remain here, and that according to the instructions which I have from the father president I shall go on to Monterey as soon as the barks sail to join the father president there, when God may be pleased to permit it. May His divine Majesty grant that this may happen soon, in order to raise in that port the standard of the holy cross forever, and to reduce to the holy faith that numerous body of heathen which is collected there the same as here. * Later on the missionaries built a dam in this vicinity, the remains of which are still visible. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 19 I do not know whether your Reverence will have received my two letters which I wrote from Purisima, I believe it was in May and November of the past year of 1768. In them I begged you to grant me the consolation, when the mission shall have arrived from Spain, and ministers shall have come to bear us company, of favoring me by permitting my companion, Father Cruzado,* whom I left in Tilaco, to come to join me. He desires it very much, as he told me before we separated, but he did not come then because not more than one could come from each mission, as was done. We have been companions for a long time, and there is much that he could do there. Even though I shall go on to Monterey to join the father president, as I have already said, from what I learned of the plans it seems that in a short time the three missions that are to be founded now, will perhaps become six; and therefore there will always be room for Father Cruzado, if it be your pleasure, and the holy bishopric will send him. Although I have my good habit, the old one has been worn out in this long journey all the way through mountains, and so when opportunity offers I should be glad if you would send me a habit with a hood and a tunic and cord, for here there is nothing of which to make them. I am also greatly in need of some handkerchiefs for the dust; four or six might be sent, since they are so far away—thick ones from La Puebla, for I have only two, which I brought out of the Sierra,f and they are already * Fathers Crespi and Cruzado had been stationed together at Tilaco in the Sierra Gorda. t He means the Sierra Gorda, in Mexico. m 20 FRAY JUAN CRESPI badly worn, and since I have been in this country I have not been able to get any. I also ask you for a good encased crucifix for the rosary, for the one that I have is breaking. This is a favor for which I shall be very grateful, and God will reward you for it. Pardon me for troubling you. I pray God to preserve your important life for me for many years in His divine love and grace. From this port of San Diego, June 22, 1769. I kiss Your Reverence's hands. Your least and most humble servant, who venerates you. Fray Juan Crespi (Rubric). I make the enclosed request for Father Cruzado. And I commend myself with all my heart to all the Holy Community, praying that you will keep me present in your holy sacrifices and prayers. DISCOVERY OF SAN FRANCISCO BAY FRAY JUAN CRESPI TO FRAY FRANCISCO PALOU san diego, february 6, 1770.* hail jesus, mary, and joseph! My Reverend Father Lector, Fellow Student, and PREsmENT Fr. Francisco Palou. My Ever- Honored and Very Dear Fellow Student in Christ : How eager I am that this may find your Reverence in the full perfection of health! Although very much fatigued by the long journey and pilgrimage that we have just completed, Father Gomez and I are in good health, thanks be to God, in spite of the indescribable toils through which we have passed, and, in accordance with my desire, together with our Father Lector Junipero, I promise as always to serve you in everything that may please you. My dear friend:—Last year, '69, when the Principe was about to leave this port of San Diego at the end of June or the beginning of July, I wrote to your Reverence several letters concerning my safe arrival at this port, and how also our father lector had arrived with the governor. In one letter •British Museum. Add MS. 13974. Copia de Cartas escritaa por el P. P.or Fr. Juan Crespi. [Verger makes the following endorsement:] Copy of letters written by the Father Preacher Fray Juan 22 FRAY JUAN CRESPI I wrote at length about what happened to the crews of the two ships and the expedition, and those that had died at this port, and how at the same time the expedition by land continued its journey in search of the port of Monterey, on which Father Gomez and I were going, as we did. I suppose that you must have received those letters of mine and learned their contents. Now I will tell your Reverence how on the 14th of July of last year, '69, we left this port of San Diego, traveling by land with faces toward the north, to go in search of the much praised port of Monterey. On the 14th of January of the present (-year we all arrived again on our return, having gone jto the parallel of thirty-eight degrees, where lies the port of San Francisco. However, that of Monterey has become invisible to us, and we did not find it anywhere throughout the journey. And judging from what we saw all along the coast, using the greatest care that it was possible to observe and that your Reverence can think of, we did not find the port of Monterey before we came upon that of San Francisco, which is a very noble and very large harbor and is on the parallel of thirty-eight c Crespi, apostolic missionary of the College of San Fernando of Mexico, concerning the land expeditions which were made in the year of 1769 in search of the port of Monterey. After having worked for seventeen years with laudable zeal in the missions of the Sierra Gorda, which were under the charge of that college, he went to California for the same work in 1768. Also a letter of Sergeant Don Joseph Francisco de Ortega, who accompanied the same expedition. With the correction of the above letters, they agree with their originals; and no new copy is sent because the mail does not permit. August 4, 1771. Fray Rafael Verger, Guardian. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 23 as I said. We were at that port about seven days, and I will go on explaining with all detail what we saw and explored up to that place. Unless the port of Monterey is beyond thirty-eight degrees (and then all the accounts and Cabrera would be proved wrong, which can hardly be believed, since we saw very clearly all that Cabrera in particular says of the coast, with as much exactitude as if he had been with us and told it to us) that is the place. Therefore, the best and most careful conclusion that we could come to is that Monterey has been lost or the land swallowed up, unless, as I have said, it is beyond thirty-eight degrees. I will now go on explaining. When we left this port of San Diego for Monterey we always kept close to the shore (and only near this port, so as to take a straight line, did we leave it for about six leagues) until, about a month after setting out from here, that is, on the 14th of August, we entered the first regular town of the Channel of Santa Barbara, which was given the name of Assumpta de Maria Santissima, since we both said Mass there. This place has a pretty river, land, and numerous peaceful and friendly Indians. From this place to the Punta de la Conversion,* which is probably about eight or ten leagues beyond, come the majority of the islands that form this channel, and which are probably about five or six leagues from the mainland, since we saw them very clearly. This side of the Punta de la Conversion there are no * Crespi's diary does not mention Punta de la Conversi6n, but it is on several old maps. Ten leagues from Assumpta would place it near Dume Point. (See H. R. Wagner, in American Antiquarian Society Proceedings, April, 1926, pp. 111-112.) L 24 FRAY JUAN CRESPI islands, as I understand it, except the first two as you go from here; they are San Clemente and Santa Catharina, both of which we saw well and which are not far before you reach the Punta de la Conversion, Having arrived, as I said, at Assumpta, tine first town of the channel, we always followed the shore until we reached the port of San Francisco, and I lay it before your consideration whether everything would have been carefully explored or not when we were going on an undertaking of so much importance and value. I made the observations with Don Miguel Costanzo at all the places where I was able to do so and where the weather permitted, taking the elevations and noting them in the proper places. From Assumpta we followed the channel along the beach almost all the way to this port of San Francisco, except at the Sierra de Santa Lucia, which did not allow a passage because it is very steep at the sea, and it was necessary to open a road over it for some leagues, so as to be able to advance and to explore it along the shore, as we did with the greatest care. This channel of Santa Barbara is very well settled, with towns composed of large huts roofed with thatch and with a very great number of peaceable and friendly Indians. There are at least nine or ten towns. All have canoes, very well made. Six villages had as many as fifteen canoes each, which they use for fishing, because many kinds of fish, such as tunny, needle-fish, sea bass, barbel, and very large sardines, are plentiful. All these towns welcomed us with much rejoicing and entertained THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 25 us well, bringing us a fine supply of fish, in particular fresh tunny, of which they made great piles for us. We had to tell them that we would not take so much because it would be wasted, for if we had wished to use all the pack animals, without doubt it would have loaded them down. All these people are very wide awake and active, and have no fault except that of being very nimble with their fingers. There may well be ten thousand souls along the channel, from the first town of Assumpta to the Punta de la Conception, where the islands end.* There is one town of thatched huts on an island made by a large inlet. As we looked at it from a distance it appeared that it might have a hundred houses, at least as many as that, and the number might even be two hundred. We conjectured that this village alone might have about eight hundred souls, and besides this there are four or five large villages in the neighborhood of this inlet. Besides the abundant fish on which they live, they have many grass seeds of which they make very good pinole and atole. I began this letter with the intention of being very diffuse, and explaining everything in detail, but I have just this instant received notice that the expedition is to return to California within a week, because they say there is no food on which to five, since the ship San Joseph and even the Principe, which should have returned by now, for it left for San Bias before we left for Monterey, has not come. Therefore, I will recount to you as briefly s the remainder of our journey. * Mescal Island, near the site of Santa Barbara. 26 FRAY JUAN CRESPI The time that we spent going and coming was six months and eight days. We did not find Monterey in all the distance that we passed over; and I do not know whether it exists or not. We did find the Sierra de Santa Lucia, which is a high, white, rough mountain, very steep at the sea and exactly as Cabrera says. Since we found a point of pines at about six or eight leagues distance, and since it was the only one that was seen on the whole trip, we explored the mountain twice with the greatest care possible, and the Point of Pines, according to my observation, is in latitude thirty-six degrees and forty-two minutes. Where the Point of Pines begins there is a little cove; it may be that it cuts into the land a quarter of a league, and from here the Point of Pines extends. The pines are very dilapidated, and not as the accounts describe them, and I can assure your Reverence that I did not see a single one on the whole point that would do for masts or spars for these ships. This point ends where it merely touches the port of Monterey, and from its terminal there extends a very large cove, of some twenty leagues at least, to the Point of Ano Nuevo. Along this cove runs a range of very high sand dunes; they are mountains in height and cover five leagues in extent. Near this point where they begin we found four lakes, all of very poor, brackish water, so that from only one of them could one drink in case of need. Where the lakes are there is a plain which extends as far as the dunes run, and turns perhaps two leagues toward a mountain.18 Some THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 27 large and small oaks and same scraggly pines are found near some dunes where the lakes are. This, according to the opinion which we all formed at this place, is the spot where Monterey ought to be, but we found it closed with high sand dunes.* About four or five leagues from where these dunes end, on the same beach, there is a large estuary, and near it much moist level ground, and many large ponds, but without any trees or any signs of a harbor, although we explored it twice. Near this spot we not only saw tracks of the mountain animals, but the captain succeeded in seeing on a trail about twenty-eight as large as cows, with their young, but it seems to me, as I heard them described, that the antlers or horns were like those of deer, although the points were like blunt sticks. Not far from this spot we saw manure like that of horses and we saw bears' dung everywhere. I did not succeed in seeing any of these animals, but the soldiers saw several, and they testified that the animals with the manure like horses were like mules. They said that some of these animals must be buffalo, but I say that they cannot have been, according to the skins and the pictures which I have seen. Seeing that Monterey did not appear, it was decided, with great eagerness, in view of the fact that the thirty-seven degrees had not been covered, to continue until it was found. And at thirty-seven degrees and forty-nine minutes according to my reckoning and some few minutes less according to that of Don Miguel Constanzo, we found ourselves * See Cabrera Bueno's description of Monterey Bay, p. 236, Note. 28 FRAY JUAN CRESPI in front of a very large inlet or bay, and at its mouth six or seven farallones just as Cabrera describes them, and likewise the Punta de Reyes that rises at a distance from the sea and forms an island, as it were. And thus exactly Cabrera explains it when speaking of San Francisco; and says that this port has three ravines and that by the one in the middle an estuary flows into the land. All this was as we saw it, so that we do not doubt that it is the port of San Francisco. I took the elevation, as I said, at one side of the port, about three leagues this way.* We arrived at that harbor on the eve of All Saints \ Day, and we said Mass of that day and the Mass for the dead. In spite of this we explored for three days, and went on to see if we could get around the estuary. This is not an estuary proper, but a large arm of the sea, which enters the land for at least ten leagues. At the narrowest point it must be about three leagues, and at the widest expanse it must be under four. In a word, it is a very large and fine harbor, such that not only all the navy of our Most Catholic Majesty but those of all Europe could take shelter in it. We camped about four or five leagues from the end of this estuary, about a league away from it, in a level plain which must have been at least six leagues wide, wooded with oak and some live oak. We stopped near a good stream of water that flowed through the middle of the large plain and estuary. All the land is so very good and mellow that it can not be excelled. To reach this place from the side of the port where I took the * At San Pedro Creek, just north of Montara Mountain. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 29 latitude we made three marches, travelling eight While we were in this spot Senor Ortega and the soldiers went out to explore for four days, by order of the governor, but in those four days they were not able to get around to the other sidef of this estuary, for there still remained a long distance to go from where they turned back because their time was up. As a result of this expedition we learned that at about four or five leagues from where we were the estuary ended, and that in the middle of the plain they found a river with a considerable flow of water and a bed well-wooded with different kinds of trees. It ran into the estuary and could be forded with difficulty. From this river they went forward on the other side of the estuary about eight or ten leagues, but there was still a long distance for them to go. At this distance of ten-leagues they came upon another very large stream with a very strong current, and its bed was also wooded and its course was through a great plain which was also quite well wooded. $ This great estuary or arm of the sea connects with the ocean between some high mountains which form, they say, three islands within the strait, but we could not see them from where we were because it was low. This estuary is surrounded on all sides by high mountains throughout its entire extent, so that it becomes a lake, as it were, protected from all the winds. Since this most noble estuary is * Camp was on San Francisquito Creek, at Palo Alto. t He means the north side. X They must have gone as far north as to Niles or farther. 30 FRAY JUAN CRESPI three leagues wide at the narrowest place throughout its whole length, it would seem that its mouth would therefore be large and that ships could enter even though they were of deep draught. I do not doubt that in time it will be possible to make soundings and to explore it. The idea that we have formed of this large and most noble port of Our Father San Francisco is that there are two, both excellent and very large, an outer one in which there are six or seven f arallones, as Cabrera says; and the other, a better one, guarded from all winds, within this estuary or arm of the sea. Therefore, if the ships do not find the port of Monterey after a time, a thing I doubt completely since it was sought by so many eyes and with so much care, inasmuch as the whole undertaking depended on it, we have in place of it this fine bay of San Francisco, in which to set up the standard of the Holy Cross and from which to convert to our holy Catholic Faith the numerous friendly and kindly Indians who inhabit the land round about this estuary. Concerning the multitude of Indians whom we have found everywhere, and concerning their gentleness and peaceableness, I will speak in particular of those of the port of San Francisco. From San Diego to that port, which is the farthest point which this land expedition reached, I may say that all the land in general is everywhere well wooded, has abundant forage and countless other kinds of herbage, and of its own accord produces as food for the numerous Indians plentiful harvests of the crops from which they make the good pinole and atole on THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 31 which they live. All the land is abundantly supplied with water from creeks and rivers, and the farther inland one goes the more abundant and frequent is the water supply. The place with the greatest lack of running water is a stretch of a few days' march, near San Diego, but where there is no running water there are great springs. If it is a country of seasonal rains, as its wooded condition goes to show, it would be possible to plant in season as is done in other places where there is no running water. The farther inland one goes the more frequent and more abundant is the running water. We found stretches of only two leagues with six or seven arroyos having good streams of running water, and in the same distance two or three or even four or five are very common. All the water is excellent, cool and clear, since the majority of the arroyos flow from the mountains and almost all empty into the sea. I counted twelve rivers from San Diego to San Francisco, including those at this port of San Francisco. Towns or missions could be established between San Diego and San Francisco at any distances desired, as three, four, or six leagues, or whatever you like, since there is land and to spare for it everywhere. In some places this land lacks nothing except that there is a scarcity of wood (though generally the mountain nearby has it) and of rock; but the regions that lack wood generally have the mountains nearby, and these are very well provided with fire-wood and timber. In many places the country is well supplied with herds of antelope and many rabbits. 32 FRAY JUAN CRESPI All this land is populated with a large number of Indians who are very gentle, generous, and well- formed. The most savage natives that we have found are those of San Diego and a circle in the same neighborhood. All the others are very good, peaceable and gentle. About forty leagues from San Diego the rivers begin, and then in a space of about eight leagues there are three which flow through a very large plain. The one that has the least land must have about six or eight leagues and is very near the bay of San Pedro. The first of them, which is the most rapid and has the largest volume of water, flows ramblingly and empties into this bay, the shore of which is a plain of many leagues in extent with large streams of water. All this plain is extremely level, as is that of the third river, so that each river by itself would be able to produce grain sufficient, I do not say for cities merely, but for provinces, as well as for the people that inhabit these plains, which are as level as the palm of the hand. On the first river, which we named Dulcisimo Nombre de Jesus de Ios Temblores* on account of the earthquakes that we felt when on it, there is a very large village of very friendly, gentle, peaceful natives, who offered us all their land if we would remain with them, saying that the Serranos wished to leave their mountains, that they would feed us on chia and other seeds, and that they would build us houses, and protect us. We told them that if we returned we would stay with them, and that we would make a house for God and afterwards one for * The Santa Ana River. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 33 ourselves, and that we would clothe them and plant for them, and also defend them from their enemies. When we said this to the one who was captain of them all, he shed tears of happiness and joy. From here on in all the towns and villages that we came to they brought out trays of very good pinoles, atoles and tamales, not just once, but three times a day, in the morning, at noon and in the afternoon. There was a village where, besides the large amount that they divided among the soldiers and Christian Indians that came with us, they gave us a good supply of chia for lunch, for there is good chia in most places. I have already pointed out above that there are many villages round about the estuary at the port of San Francisco. When we were there several groups came out inviting us to come to their villages, promising that they would give us food. Since we were out of our way, it was not possible to accept lest we should lose time, but we managed to satisfy them by the governor's giving them some trifles and telling them that we were going to stop at some distance, and if they wished to come they might. Some of them who urged very strongly that we go to their villages, seeing that we offered excuses, went off on the run, and soon we saw a string of them descending from the mountain. There must have been at least sixty, some very much burdened. When they reached the path they all stopped. We came up and found that they had four very large baskets, two almost full of some very thick atoles which were similar to blanc-mange, and the two 34 FRAY JUAN CRESPI others also nearly full of pinoles. Without doubt each one of the baskets would hold a half bushel of the seeds, which I tasted and found very good. They distributed them all to the members of the expedition. On the llth of November we started on the return from San Francisco to this port.17 For seven days we had very hot sunshine, but at the same time the cold at night-fall was insupportable. There is a great abundance of large acorns from the many oaks, and we all nearly got sick on them because there was great need of food, since the soldiers then had only tortillas, and the menestra had been finished some days before. Father Gomez and I, although the governor looked out for us as much as he could, setting aside some that he ordered kept for us, nevertheless suffered many hardships and not a little hunger. When we turned back from San Francisco we had thirty or so tierces of flour. We reached the Point of Pines the 28th of November to explore the Sierra de Santa Lucia again, and to see if the port of Monterey had been hidden in some corner, but we did not find it.18 We were detained eleven days on this Point of Pines, until the 10th of December, when we left, continuing our return with only twelve tierces of flour. On the 20th of the same month we still lacked about a league of leaving that mountain, and on that day the five tierces of flour that were left were divided among all. The governor's two boxes of biscuits were divided among the leaders and us ;* each of us was given a ham, and with that and a bit of jerked beef * Fathers Crespi and G6mez. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 35 which the governor gave us every day, and the birds and bears that Don Pedro Fages and Don Miguel could get (they did us a thousand kindnesses) and the fish that they caught after We entered the Channel, we got along very well in the company of those gentlemen. I hope God and our holy Father San Francisco will reward them for the kindness they showed us. When we started for San Francisco* about twenty or so Leather-jackets became ill with the scurvy, from which some were so sick that they were finally given the last rites, but in the midst of all our hardships they suddenly recovered their health and no soldier died and no Indian of those that went on the expedition. Friend, pardon me if this goes without any more time spent on it, as God is served. Please share it with all our companions, or if that is not possible, with those that would like this letter of mine, because this has been a sudden departure, for they said at first that they would remain until the food gave out. I hope our father lector and president will be more lengthy in telling you of what happened at San Diego on the day of the Assumption of the Blessed Mary, when the Indians came near making away with all of them. There was a bit of warfare and of our men they killed Joseph Maria, the father president's servant, wounded two others, and cut one of Father Vizcayno's fingers from his hand, but all the wounded have recovered. But, as I am informed, Father Vizcayno, who is going with this expedition and is returning to the College, will him- * From Monterey. 36 FRAY JUAN CRESPI self tell you better in a living letter of the episode that happened at this new mission of San Diego. May God desire that the ships shall soon arrive with supplies so that they may not have to abandon it for lack of food. Up to the present it has not been possible to baptize anyone, or even to attempt to do so. Nevertheless may God, our Lord, move these wretched people to His understanding and may your Reverence commend it to His Divine Majesty so that this beginning may not be lost. When it is possible I will take a bit from the diary and send it to your Reverence. Now I beg you earnestly to keep me much in mind in your holy offices, and to commend this affair to God for a happy outcome, that such a multitude of souls dwelling in the scattered regions of the North may not be lost. I have reckoned that the port of San Francisco is two hundred and ten leagues from here. It seems that the governor and Senor Ortega will remain here. The governor has treated us with all possible courtesy and conducted himself towards all with great wisdom. Will your Reverence please thank him, a thing which will delight him greatly. He has worked hard like a true and faithful servant of the king to find the port of Monterey. He told me that he was writing to your Reverence, and in addition he charged me to beg for him from your Reverence a silver box or chest that he left at San Ygnacio and which they are keeping for him. May God guard you and keep you for many years in His divine love and favor. From this new mission and port of San Diego de Alcala. February 6, 1770. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 37 Your affectionate friend and fellow-student, who honors you in all things, greets your Reverence. Fr. Juan Crespi. The Indians have many dogs. The women wear skirts of deer-skin and bracelets of shells; they are less timid than the men and are the ones who give the most. The men go about entirely naked; they have good hair and very long, which they twist about their heads. FRAY JUAN CRESPI TO JOSEPH DE GALVEZ san diego, february 9, 1770* hail jesus, mary and joseph! Senor Visitor-General Don Joseph de Galvez. Most Venerated Sir: In fulfillment of my obligation I write to tell your Illustrious Lordship that I together with Father Fray Francisco Gomez was named by our father president, Fray Junipero Serra, to go with this expedition by land to look for the port of Monterey." We left this port of Senor San Diego on the 14th of July of the past year of 1769, traveling at the start in sight of the coast. At the end of a month we entered the first town on the Channel, and from there continued to follow the coast from beach to beach. This Channel has eight or ten regular towns containing a great number of heathen, with very many round houses in the form of half oranges, roofed with grass. Some of the houses which, with other persons, I entered are so large that as many as sixty families live in one of them. These people have their form of government, all the towns having three or four captains, one of whom is head chief and is obeyed by all the rest. Each of the chiefs has two wives, while the rest of the men have only one. They have two cemeteries, one for the men and another for the women, all surrounded by high, sharpened palings, painted in many colors, with many boards set in the ground and painted the same •Arehivo General y Publico, Mexico, Calif ornias, VoL 66. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 39 way. Around the edge there are many large whalebones.* All this very numerous body of heathen are mild, affable, and docile, and they feasted and entertained us to the best of their ability. This Channel abounds in fish, the bonito being especially plentiful in August. They gave us so many that in all the towns they made piles of them for us, both fresh and roasted, so large that we had to tell them not to bring us any more, because they would be spoiled. If we wished to do so we could have loaded the entire pack train with fish, not to mention the large amount that was consumed. They remained with us the entire day, unarmed and as friendly as though they had always known the Spaniards. I do not know what led them to seek out us two fathers in particular, and to desire to talk with us all the time, and to wish to take hold of my rosary. They asked me to give them one, but I could not do so, for poor Fray Francisco had only the one that he wore hanging by a cord. My heart went out to them, seeing myself with such empty hands when others were giving to them from full hands. All these towns have many canoes with keels, made of pieces very handsomely worked, all having two prows and two oars, and so light that with one stroke they cover a good deal of water. They are so light indeed that two heathen can put them in and out of the water. For fishing they use spears well made of reeds. At onef town we counted as * In his letter to Pal6u, February 6, 1770, Crespi does not mention these cemeteries. t In his letter to Palou he says "six." See p. 24. 40 FRAY JUAN CRESPI many as fifteen canoes, some of them not so small, for they measured not less than seven or eight varas; but all were equally fight, so that two men could launch them in the water. Three or four of these towns have a great deal of land and firewood, and one of them has a river. There is one town isolated by a large estuary in which there is fine fishing; it must have a hundred and more houses, and of souls there must be no fewer than eight hundred.* Besides this town there are many large villages around the borders of the estuary, each with a large population of heathen. Without doubt all the Indians in this place together must number nearly two thousand souls, and it has been estimated that the Channel alone may have as many as ten thousand. In front of these towns are stretched the islands, about five or six leagues from terra firma. Opposite Point Conception is the last island of the Channel. On one side of it there is a rock inhabited by sea lions. We passed Point Conception by the beach, and on the 13th of September found ourselves about a league from a very high white range which, according to all the signs, is the one called by the histories Sierra de Santa Lucia. Being very precipitous, it cut off our passage by the beach. So they opened a road for some leagues along a very high ridge, by which we climbed this sierra and crossed it.f It is very rugged, but abounds in very clear running * This was the town on Mescal Island, near the site of Santa Barbara. t They entered the Santa Lucia Mountains by way of San Carpo- foro Creek. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 41 water. While in it we were near the source of a beautiful river, having on its banks a heavy growth of white poplars, and which we all thought must be the Carmelo River.* Having crossed this sierra we again came to the same river in a valley of very good land and about two or three leagues wide. We followed this river and valley for sixteen leagues, having the sierra always in plain sight on the left, until on the 1st of October the river and plain again placed us on the beach, in sight of a very large bay and a beautiful point of pines, which extends far into the sea and from afar makes a fine view. We were all very happy, for we had not the least doubt that this was what the histories call the Point of Monterey, and that the port of this name must be there. Captain Don Fernando de Rivera went at once with nineteen of his leather-jacket soldiers, in high spirits, to explore this place, and we all eagerly hoped that he would return with the joyful news that the desired port was found at last, so that we might all move there. But on the second day after his departure he returned with the report that after exploring the entire vicinity of the point, no trace was found of any port, large or small. He said that where the Point of Pines began there was a little bay into which emptied a small stream, with a scraggly growth of blackberries, and forming an estuary on the beach of this little bay; that the Point of Pines, which must be scarcely a league and a half long, had on the other side four small lagoons * The river was the San Antonio. They again encountered it near King City, where it is known as the Salinas. 42 FRAY JUAN CRESPI of very salt water, and that on this other side of the point and the lagoons there were chains of very- high sand dunes, which looked like high mountains, in front of a plain about two leagues long and extending to a mountain. They said they had traveled along the whole beach without seeing trace or sign of a port; but that the Point of Pines was undoubtedly the one so-named in the histories, and that it was thickly covered with pines down to the sea, but that the pines were all very scraggly, knotty, and with low branches. They said that they did not see any such pines as the histories describe, but that they did see large five oaks. There were no poplars either, but they did observe a few five oaks near the lagoons mentioned. This report was a sad disappointment to everybody, especially since there were now twenty and more leather-jacket soldiers very ill with scurvy, twelve totally incapacitated and the rest not far from it. In view of all this, and seeing that the port of Monterey did not appear, the commander held a council with the other chiefs, in which we fathers took part, and it was determined to go on until the port of Monterey should be found, for it might be that the sierra mentioned would turn out not to be that of Santa Lucia, which might be found farther on, with the port. So we went on, beach by beach, exploring everything carefully. This place where we had made camp, five leagues this side* of the Point of Pines, had been named Senora Santa Delphina. I took the latitude there, and it came out for me 36 degrees * On "this side" by the trail, but in reality north of it. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 43 and 53 minutes. A rest was taken for some days on account of the sick, and so that the horses might recuperate a little, for they were now becoming very footsore. On the 8th of October we left this place of Santa Delphina, with some leather-jacket soldiers so ill that they had received communion. In a short time five or six had been given the last sacraments, and it was only with great trouble that they could be carried on fitters, for they were not able to use their bodies in any way. So we went on with immense labor, expecting momentarily that those who had received the sacraments would breathe their last, until we were near Point Ano Nuevo, at an arroyo which was named San Luis Beltran. Here we were thoroughly drenched by a heavy rain which fell on us, and from this moment all the sick began to improve, so that in a few days they were able to mount their horses and help a little. For this reason the soldiers named the arroyo La Salud.* On the eve of Todos Santos we came in sight of a very large port with six or seven farallones stretching across its mouth for a distance of about a league.f There are three barrancas in this bay, and by the middle one a large and round estuary penetrates into the land. There is a point of land which runs far into the sea and forms a point like an island, but is in reality terra firma4 In yiew °f what we all saw before us we all conceived the idea that this very great and magnificent port was that * See the Diary, p. 218. f Camp was at San Pedro Creek, just north of Montara Mountain. $ Point Reyes. 44 FRAY JUAN CRESPI of San Francisco, for it is only in that bay that the histories put the six or seven farallones, the barrancas, and the rest. This caused disappointment and confusion to all, for we now saw that Monterey was behind us, in the sierra which we had left there. We moved near the estuary or arm of the sea, which must penetrate the land at least ten leagues, all surrounded by high mountains, and must be three leagues wide in the narrowest place. We pitched camp in a plain some six leagues long, grown with good oaks and live oaks, and with much other timber in the neighborhood.* This plain has two good arroyos with a good flow of water, and at the southern end of the estuary there is a good river, with plenty of water, which passes through the plain mentioned, well wooded on its banks.f We all hold the opinion, without any doubt, that this is a very great and magnificent port, with shelter from all winds. At one side, about six leagues before reaching it, I took the latitude, and it came out 37 degrees and 49 minutes 4 This entire port is surrounded by many and large villages of barbarous heathen who are very affable, mild, and docile, and very generous in giving what they have. As soon as they learned about us they all came out on the road and importunately invited us to go to their villages, saying they would give us plenty to eat. When we refused to go, for fear of getting lost, they came out to the road with large quantities of pinole and atole made from their * Camp was on San Francisquito Creek, at Palo Alto. t Guadalupe Biver. i At San Pedro Creek, on San Francisco Peninsula. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 45 One village brought us a whole bushel of pinole and several bushels of atole. What I have just said about these heathen we have experienced all the way up to this port, all the pueblos and rancherias bringing us not only one meal but three meals every day, in the morning, at midday, and in the evening. Seeing that this bay was without any doubt the Port of San Francisco, the commander again called a council, at which we friars were present, and it was resolved that we should go once more to make camp and explore the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and all its vicinity, with as much care as though looking for a pin. This was done promptly. On the afternoon of the llth of November we left this port of San Francisco for the Point of Pines, where we arrived on the 28th of the same month. It was all explored again, but Monterey was not found. About six leagues by air line from the Point of Pines there is a long estuary which has no opening into the sea, near very large lagoons and swampy plains without trees.* Here were seen tracks of all the animals which are ascribed to Monterey. While exploring in this place some bands of animals were seen which must have numbered more than fifty, accompanied by their young. They were as large as cows, without horns, the color of deer, with feet like cows, head and face like mules, and the excrement the same. There are bears in abundance in the whole country from near San Diego up to the last region explored at San Francisco. * This place appears to have been near Pajaro River. See p. 212. 46 FRAY JUAN CRESPI The land in general is all very good, well covered with grass, and abounds in running and permanent streams. In marches of two leagues we found as many as seven arroyos with good streams of water. It is all populated by numerous heathen, all of them, as I have already said regarding the port of San Francisco, very mild, affable, and apparently docile. Up to the port of San Francisco eleven or twelve rivers were encountered, all with plains many leagues wide, each one capable in itself of furnishing cities or provinces with grain. There is so much good land between San Diego and the port of San Francisco that pueblos could be placed there at any distance apart that might be desired. But the country, generally speaking, has one drawback, which is the lack of wood and trees at most of the sites; but those which have no wood on the spot have timber not very far off, usually in canons and along arroyos, as far as we have seen. Your illustrious Lordship will pardon me for writing this in great haste, for although I would wish to write more at length I am prevented by the positive notice just given me that a young man of the expedition is setting out immediately for California to inform your Lordship of all that has happened.* I hope that your Lordship will not take offense because the port of Monterey has not been found; for, believe me, your Lordship, this expedition has done its full duty before God and the whole world, as faithful and obedient vassals of our Catholic monarch. And if in time the port is not * Plans evidently had changed within the past three days. See p. 25. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 47 found we have that of San Francisco, carefully and well examined, and only forty leagues distant from the Point of Pines, counting the many detours made by the coast, while by air fine or by sea it is clearly much less. Since the departure of the messenger catches us so recently arrived and worn out, I have not yet had time to copy the diary, but I presume your Lordship will receive those of others promptly. As soon as I can I shall make a copy and send it to your Lordship. In my diary I have estimated from this port of San Diego to that of our Father San Francisco two hundred and ten leagues—that much extension for the crown of our Catholic monarch. And we have found so many heathen in all this area that it would be a great pity if so many thousands of souls which have been lost for so many centuries should be abandoned forever. I trust in God that it shall not be so, and that it is not unimportant that the whole country has been explored and the character of these miserable heathen learned. I assure your Lordship that from here to San Francisco we have not had the least alarm, nor has it been necessary to fire a gun. Senor Don Gaspar de Portola has comported himself toward everybody with much circumspection and prudence, and I do not know that the wisest could have done better with everybody, officials and soldiers. He has looked after us friars with the greatest kindness, and although the provisions were almost exhausted when we left the Sierra de Santa Lucia for this place, he ordered a little biscuit and flour saved for us. From that place the expedition 48 FRAY JUAN CRESPI has lived on mule meat, bear meat, and whatever else fell into our hands, including the large sardines that we were able to get on the Channel. We also owe thanks for a thousand favors to the gentlemen Don Pedro Fages and Don Miguel Costanso, who have done everything that they could. We have always eaten together. God will pay them for their kindness. The captain has conducted himself in the same way, and has carried out his office of explorer to the best of his ability. Your illustrious Lordship will pardon my plainness and lack of elegance and will give me such orders as may please you, with certainty of my prompt obedience. I pray God in His Divine love and grace to preserve and guard your important life for many years, for the protection of those numerous souls whom His Divine Majesty has created in this heathendom. From this port and new mission of Senor San Diego de Alcala. February 9,1770, Most illustrious Visitor General, I kiss your hands. Your most affectionate servant and chaplain who venerates you Fray Juan Crespi (Rubric). THE FOUNDING OF MONTEREY FRAY JUAN CRESPI TO FRAY JUAN ANDRES monterey, june 11, 1770.* hail jesus, mary and joseph! My Reverend Father Guardian, Fray Juan Andres. My always greatly venerated Father Guardian: I am sending you this letter to tell your Reverence and all the Discretory the joyful news that we have taken formal, solemn, and legal possession of this most famous port of San Carlos de Monterey. On the 3d of this month of June, day so notable, Feast of Espiritu Santo, the reverend father president said the first Mass, I being his vicar in the choir, aided by Engineer Don Miguel Costanzo. Having first sung the Veni Creator Spiritus with all the solemnity possible, the ceremony was concluded with the Te Beum, with a salute by all the soldiers, answered from the harbor by the packet boat El Principe, which must have been about four hundred yards from us. The Mass was sung on the very edge of the beach of this harbor, under a five oak, about six paces from another whose branches reached the water, and which no doubt was the very live oak under which the people of General Vizcayno celebrated Mass. Let thanks be given to His Divine Majesty for the achievement of what has cost so many steps and toils. No doubt everybody was grieved by the news that we had not * British Museum. Add MS. 13974. Copia de Cartas eseritas por el P. P.or Fr. Juan Crespi. 50 FRAY JUAN CRESPI found the harbor, which I wrote your Reverence on the arrival of this expedition at the port of San Diego after the first journey. That report could not be avoided, but thank God all those cares are now vanished. While we were in San Diego the packet boat El Principe, alias San Antonio, was seen in the vicinity of that harbor in the afternoon of the 19th of March, day of Senor San Joseph. On the 24th of the same month it dropped anchor there. As soon as it arrived it was decided to make a second journey by land, the vessel going by sea, confident now that we should find this harbor.* On the 16th of April, second day of the Feast of the Resurrection, the vessel sailed for the north, with the reverend father president on board, in search of this harbor. The next day, the 17th, in the afternoon, we of the land expedition set forth. It was composed of Commander Don Gaspar de Portola, the Lieutenant of Volunteers, Don Pedro Fages, with twelve of his soldiers, seven Leather- jackets, two muleteers, five Christian Indians from the missions, a servant of the commander, and myself. On the 24th of May, Ascension Day, we arrived at this harbor with perfect ease, without the least mishap or sickness, thank God, having spent in the journey thirty-eight days. As soon as we arrived, the very same day, before we dismounted about half a league before reaching * For an account of the return journey to Monterey and the founding of the mission and presidio there, see Pal6u's New California (Bolton, ed.), II, 281-296. Pal6u evidently used this letter in that account. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 51 the Point of the Pines and the beach where we had halted on the first journey, we wished to see a cross which they said they had set up when we started back last December. We were consumed with curiosity to see this cross and the beach, which we had not seen or been on, except those who had explored that place. And so Commander Don Gaspar de Portola, Lieutenant Pedro Fages,. and I, with a soldier, went to see it, guided by the soldier to the place where he knew the cross had been erected. We reached it, looked at it, and examined it again to see if we could find any signs that the bark had arrived, according to the signals formerly agreed upon by the chiefs, but we saw no sign of the bark whatever. We found the cross all surrounded by arrows and darts with plumes stuck in the ground; a dart with a string of sardines, still nearly fresh; another dart with a piece of meat hanging to it; and at the foot of the cross a little pile of mussels, all put there by the heathen in token of peace. ' All along the road where the camp had halted we found many darts with plumes stuck in the earth. And now, as soon as they saw us, they all came out unarmed, just as though they had dealt with us all their fives. Satisfied with having seen the cross, we returned to the beach and went down to it. There we began to see thousands of sea lions which looked like a pavement. About a hundred yards from land we saw two whales together, the sea being very quiet as though calmed with oil, or like a very quiet lake. At the same time we noticed that the very large bay which begins at the Point of Pines was enclosed 52 FRAY JUAN CRESPI by the land, the two points coming together and forming a large O. Seeing this, all three of us broke forth in the same breath, saying that this doubtless was the harbor of Monte rey which according to the histories is northeast of the Point of Pines. I took out the compass to see if it was open to the north- northwest, as the History says, and exactly in the north-northwest is the place where it opens. We were all greatly pleased to see that the cross was placed on the very harbor, whereas we were told by those who had explored it that there were no signs of the harbor. In spite of this we waited till the bark should come, to see if it entered and confirmed our observations. On the 31st of May, in the afternoon, a week after our arrival,* the bark was seen very close to the Point of Pines, and soldiers went to signal to it that we were already here. It saluted us with cannon shots, to let us know that it recognized us, and then came in to the very spot where the cross was, entering like Pedro into his own house, guided by the very same anchorage and signs given by the histories. The same night it anchored in six fathoms, and the captain of the bark sent a messenger to us to say that he was now in Monte rey, and the soldiers told him that as soon as we arrived we had recognized the place. The bay is most excellent, the sailors say, and has a beach just such as that described by Cabrera Bueno, who did not miss * While waiting they camped on Carmelo Bay, at the north edge of the present town of Carmel by the Sea. To reach camp the pack train climbed the long slope over the ridge, but Crespi and Fages went around by shore, over the Seventeen Mile Drive (Pal6u, New California, II, 285-286). THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 53 a single point on the whole coast. The pilots have found it to be in latitude thirty-six degrees and thirty-eight minutes. It is a fine sight to see the forest of pines of all sizes growing on the ridge of the Point of Pines. The barrancas, the live oaks, and the estuary of the History are all here. We even recognized the little barranca of the wells, and with very little digging three wells have been made near the estuary which pour forth much water from veins.* This spot where we are encamped and which has been cleared for the establishment of the presidio and mission is in front of the bark, in a plain about two or three gunshots from the beach. The Carmelo River, which I have crossed and seen many tfmes-,- is distant from the harbor by land, about a league and a half. It is a very large place and the river is pretty, with much good land on its very banks, all of which can be put under irrigation. There is plentiful pasture, and about half a league this way from the river there is a fine arroyo with a good stream of very good clear water. In that vicinity there are good groves of cypress. Rose bushes and blackberries are abundant everywhere. Having traveled so long, I have not been able to write the diary,t except what I have in notes. As soon as I am able I shall write it and send it to that holy college. I have found from the estimate of leagues which I have made that from the mission * Points mentioned by Cabrera Bueno. See p. 236. t He evidently refers to a diary of the second Portola journey to Monterey, a document which has not come to light. Possibly Father Crespi never completed the diary. 54 FRAY JUAN CRESPI of Santa Maria, on the frontier of heathendom, to the port of San Diego, it is one hundred and thirty- three leagues; from the port of San Diego to this one of Monte rey, one hundred and sixty leagues; and from Monte rey by the route which we traveled last year to the last point reached on the Estuary of the harbor of San Francisco, forty-four leagues. The mission of San Buenaventura is not yet founded, but the father president tells me that we will found it as soon as there is news of Captain Don Fernando de Ribera, who went to California with most of the soldiers to bring the stock for the founding of the missions, which His Lordship had ordered him to bring when I set out with him. For the founding of this mission the first regular village of the populous heathendom of the Santa Barbara Channel has been selected.* It has a good river and extensive lands that can be put under irrigation. Along the river there are large groves of willows, cottonwoods, and alders, plenty of oaks for firewood, and plenty of stone for building. I observed the latitude of this place and found it to be in thirty-four degrees and thirty minutes. It is distant from the port of San Diego sixty-seven leagues, and from this one of Monte rey ninety-three leagues. In order that this mission may be founded as soon as the captain returns, we two, the father president and I, will sacrifice ourselves to remaining alone, he staying in this mission of Monte rey while I retrace those ninety-three leagues to found San * The site was at the native town of Assumpta, where later on Mission San Buenaventura was founded. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 55 Buenaventura, and we will remain here alone as long as God may be pleased to have us. If I am not mistaken, since I came to California I have written three letters to your Reverence, and in all of them I have begged that you favor me if possible, as soon as the missionaries arrive from Spain, with my dear companion Father Cruzado who, according to what he told me when we left the Sierra, would come most gladly. We have been boon companions, through many years of hiving together. To Father Cruzado I have written as many letters as to your Reverence, telling him that I was begging this favor of you. I am not writing this because I think that you have not replied to me, but, to speak frankly, I have not received any letter in reply. Since we are exiled here in another world, as it were, the letters have perhaps been lost. I have estimated that by land this port of Monte rey is four hundred and ninety leagues from the presidio and mission of Loreto, California. I shall rejoice greatly if this letter finds your Reverence and all the rest of that holy community in perfect health. I, thank God, in spite of so much travel and toil that have fallen to my lot, have had good health all the time, except that twice during these journeys I have had severe inflammation in my eyes, and I now have arrived here with my right eye very bad since the 17th of last month. It is much better now, and although it is still very difficult for me to write, I trust that soon I shall be sound again. • 56 FRAY JUAN CRESPI I remain with the completest submission to your Reverence's wishes, asking God, in His divine love and grace, to guard you and spare you for many years. From this royal presidio and new mission of San Carlos of the famous Port of Monte rey, June 11, 1770. Your Reverence's most humble and submissive subject, who venerates you in Christ, kisses your hand. Fr. Juan Crespi. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION AS TOLD IN CRESPI'S DIARY DIARY OF THE FIRST EXPEDITION BY LAND FOR THE EXPLORATION OF THE PORT OF SAN DIEGO HAIL JESUS, MARY, AND JOSEPH! Diary19 of the expedition and description of the long roads which, to the greater honor and glory of God, our Lord, and of our king (God save him) were traveled by the apostolic missionaries of the College of San Fernando de Mexico, of the Order of Our Father San Francisco, to whom had been recently delivered, in the years of our Lord 1769 and 1770, the missions north of the Peninsula, from the frontier mission called Nuestra Senora de Ios Angeles to the ports of San Diego and Monterey, all a heathen land. From this the results were prompt. The foundations of the missions of San Diego and San Carlos de Monterey were newly planted on the harbors of their respective names, and measures were ready for the founding of the third on the shore at the beginning of the channel of Santa Barbara under the title of San Buenaventura. All this has been done under the direction of the most illustrious Don Jose de Galvez, of the Council of his Majesty in the Royal and Supreme Council of the Indies, intendant of the army, and visitor for New Spain. 60 FRAY JUAN CRESPI The diary was kept by the father prior Fray Juan Crespi, apostolic preacher of the College named, one of the three friars in the party, formerly minister of the mission of Purisima Conception in California, and now minister of that of San Carlos de Monterey, for the reason which we will explain in the following prologue. Prologue Although there were three of us missionaries from the College of San Fernando de Mexico who traveled over the roads which I am going to describe, that is to say, the Reverend Father Fray Junipero Serra, doctor and professor de prima of sacred theology, commissary of the holy office, and president of all the missions, Father Preacher Fray Francisco Gomez*, and I, my father president ordered me to write the diary, as I was the only one who had gone all the way by land from the royal presidio of Loreto to the very end, at the port of Our Father San Francisco. The father president, who came by land from Loreto with the second division of the expedition, did not go farther than the port of San Diego, but remained there with the fathers Fray Juan Vizcaino and Fray Fernando Parron, for the purpose of founding the first mission of San Diego. He sent me with the expedition, giving me as companion Father Fray Francisco Gomez, who had come by ship from Cape San Lucas to the port of San Diego, and therefore could not give any account of the country lying between Santa Maria de Ios THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 61 Angeles and San Diego. Consequently, I was the only one who went all the way by land, and so he thought that I ought to prepare this diary. However, there were always two religious witnesses of the journey by land to supplement the reports made by the subaltern officers who composed the body of the respective expeditions. Having reached California, the visitor-general, Don Jose de Galvez, desiring to send an expedition by sea and land to the ports of San Diego and Monterey, with the object of making their spiritual and temporal conquests, ordered that the land expedition should go in two divisions, the first to discover and open a road for the second, and that the sea party should go in two barks. I was designated for the first division, commanded by Captain Don Fernando Rivera y Moncada; for the second, which was to be commanded by Don Gaspar de Portola, governor of California, the father president remained to make arrangements, taking as companion the father preacher Fray Miguel de la Campa, former minister of the mission of San Ignacio, with the intention of founding a mission at Vellicata, eighteen leagues farther up than the frontier mission of Santa Maria de Ios Angeles. For this latter division of the expedition several diaries were kept which will perhaps come to the hands of many persons. Some were made by the first division and others by the second, although, judging by what I observe in that kept by the father president, which I have before me, the difference 62 FRAY JUAN CRESPI is very immaterial, even in the names of places. Because the governor and father president could not know how we had named them, and as it was necessary for the keeping of their diaries and to make them intelligible to name them in some way, they also gave them names. In order to make everything clear I shall use both designations in this diary, leaving those who may afterwards establish the missions at liberty to name them as they please. The father president, from whose diary I shall insert in this one some notes whenever it may seem conducive to a more perfect description of some important places,20 says the same. I shall begin with the departure from Vellicata, where the soldiers were assembled for the start on the expedition with which Captain Don Fernando Rivera went. There were twenty-five leather-jacket soldiers, selected from the Company of California; Don Jose Canizares, pilot, charged with writing the diary for the captain; three muleteers for the pack train; and some forty California Indians, new Christians, from the last missions, for the labor of opening roads and other things that might come up. However, that number was not completed, for some did not reach Vellicata, but fled back to their missions while on the road. . Diary March 24,1769, Good Friday.—About four in the afternoon, those of us destined for the first division of the expedition set out from the place named THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 63 Vellicata, going northeast,21 and following the road which the father president Wenceslao Line, Jesuit, traveled over in the year 1766, when he passed through this place until he came to another named by him Cieneguilla, whence he climbed the Sierra and came out on the coast of the Gulf of California on his way to explore the Colorado River. Before leaving Vellicata our party filled two barrels and all the leather bags with water, for they already knew that we were to pass the night in a place where there was none. On leaving Vellicata we directed our course between some hills. After two hours' traveling we stopped after sunset in a dry arroyo which had some grass, and camp was pitched there; we had covered about a league and a half. The country continues like the rest of California, sterile, arid, lacking grass and water, and abounding in stones and thorns. March 25, Holy Saturday.—At half-past seven in the morning we left this dry arroyo and continued toward the north-northeast. After about one league's travel we came out from among the hills and entered open country with good plains, but the sterility of the land and the scarcity of water continued, with the difference that we now found some grass in some places. After twelve we came to another dry arroyo; then we climbed a hill and descended to the arroyo of San Juan de Dios, called thus by the Jesuit father mentioned,* where we * San Juan de Di6s is on the modern map about where they reached the arroyo. This stream flows east into the Gulf of California. 64 FRAY JUAN CRESPI made camp at half past twelve.22 The day's journey was five hours, during which we must have covered four and a half leagues. This arroyo has many willows, poplars, and alders in its bed, and some pools of water. The soldiers told me that lower down it had much level land on both banks; and the California Indians, who went further down the arroyo than the soldiers, told me that lower down it runs with a good stream of water. This being the case it may be suitable for a mission. When we reached this arroyo we found a village of heathen, who fled as soon as they saw us. Our California Indians ran after them and caught a youth whom they brought to the camp, naked and all painted. He was regaled, in order to dispel the fear felt by him and the rest. We have had with us nearly all the way trees called cirios and cocobas. The California Indians are getting sick on our hands. As soon as I arrived I confessed one who is very ill. March 26, Easter.23—I said Mass, which was attended by everybody, and we stopped until afternoon. I buried the Indian from Santa Gertrudis whom I confessed and gave extreme unction last night, and a cross was planted over his grave. This day I took the latitude, and it came out for me thirty degrees and forty-six minutes.* At half-past two in the afternoon we set out toward the northwest, looking for the opposite coast, * Crespi's latitudes are generally too high. This place is near latitude 30 degrees and 6 minutes. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 65 the cacti and choyas of the Calif ornias still following us. We entered the arroyo of Los Santos Martires,* which has water and pasture and some willows in its bed, but lacks land for planting. We did not meet a single heathen in this place, although the reverend father president, when the second division of the expedition stopped here, saw a large number of them; but when they sent some California Christians to invite them in peace, they did not wait for the embassy, but fled, leaving behind them a bow and a quiver of arrows, which the Christians brought to him. Afterwards he succeeded in inducing an old heathen to come, who told him he wished to be a Christian. The father president sent him, with a messenger from Vellicata, to Father Fray Miguel de la Campa, writing to him that since he had now a captain and forty heathen under catechism in the new mission of San Fernando de Vellicata he might receive this old man into the number of catechumens. This afternoon's journey lasted three hours, during which we must have traveled as many leagues, and camp was made in the arroyo of Los Martires. March 27, Easter Monday.—I said Mass and it was attended by all the company. We started about three in the afternoon, notwithstanding that the day was cloudy and threatening rain. We followed the same arroyo, which is several leagues long, among high sierras; on leaving camp we went northeast, but after following the bends of the arroyo for a little * A branch of the west-flowing Arroyo Rosario of today. 66 FRAY JUAN CRESPI while it turned to the west-southwest. The only woods continue to be the sad cirio, and very spiny choyas and cocobas, the thistles of California. It began to rain, and we stopped, very wet, on the same arroyo, after traveling for two hours and probably making two leagues. Camp was made near some pools of water which we found in the arroyo named Los Martires by the Jesuit above-mentioned. The captain permitted me to put the poor bed which I carry inside his good tent, and in this way I was saved from getting wetter than I already was. We did not see a single heathen during the day's journey nor at the stopping place, but we did see many signs of them. March 28, Easter Tuesday.—Dawn broke with rain, which had been falling all night. The altar was arranged inside the tent, but as it did not hold all the men most of them got wet while listening to the Mass that I said. The rain continued all day, and for that reason we did not start. Here seven California Indians fell ill. I confessed all of them, and as two became worse immediately I gave them extreme unction. One of them became unconscious, and there is little hope that he will live till morning. March 29.—The day broke clear, and it was decided to depart as soon as the wet things should be dried. This morning the Indian whom I spoke of yesterday died. He belonged to the mission of San Ignacio. I buried him, and a cross was placed over his grave. The captain decided that the other THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 67 Indian, who is also very ill, shall be carried on a litter, and that the five who are not so ill shall return to their missions, with two or three of the well ones to accompany them. At a quarter to eleven we set out from the camp, and after traveling a little way we left the arroyo, taking the road to the west-northwest; we climbed a pass, and between hills we descended to a dry arroyo. A little afterward the country opened up with some plains; but it was all sterile land, without any pasture, and without any other trees than the spiny cirios and the other cacti of California. The journey was made up entirely of ascents and descents for four hours and a quarter, during which time we must not have traveled more than three leagues, on account of the windings of the road. We did not meet a single heathen, but we did see signs of them. We pitched camp in the arroyo called Las Palmas on account of its palm trees, some of which are very large. In this place we found no water, so they opened a batequi,* although the soldiers immediately reported that about half a league farther down there was running water and pasture, and they took the horses there. A little after we arrived at the camp the five Indians who had been sent back on account of illness also arrived and reported that as soon as we left, ten well-armed heathen had sallied out on them, and through fear they had got up courage to follow us. The poor creatures seem to be better. * A well dug in the sand. 68 FRAY JUAN CRESPI This place the father president called Santiago in his diary. On this day's journey nine Christian California Indians ran away from us. May God guide them and repay them for the good service they have rendered us, for their loss will be very much felt by us. March 30.—We rested this morning and at midday I had an opportunity to make observations, and the latitude came out thirty degrees and fifty minutes. At half-past one in the afternoon we broke camp, and after traveling a little entered another dry arroyo which has a palm or two. It was very annoying on account of the sand, which fatigued the animals. We descended through a small pass, and the country opened out wide, with some plains surrounded by hills, through which we came to another dry arroyo which I named San Angelo de Fulgino. In this arroyo we pitched camp. We brought water in two barrels and in the leather bags for the use of the men, but the animals were left without any, although precaution had been taken to water them before we set out. After we arrived the soldiers said that lower down than where we stopped there was water enough for the men, although somewhat distant. This place the father president called Corpus Christi, because they arrived there on this solemn day. In the night a lion was heard to roar, the same as had happened at the four preceding When the Christian Indians arrived here they brought us an old heathen with a girl, a daughter THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 69 of his, ten or twelve years old; the man was totally naked, but the girl was modestly covered in front with some fibers woven together and behind with a deerskin hanging from the waist. The commander presented the girl with some strings of beads and some glass earrings. In this day's journey we left the cirios behind. The march lasted four hours, and we must have traveled three and a half leagues. March 31.—At half-past seven we left camp, going straight to the north; we traveled up and down hills, and with a few turns we" came to wind around to the north-northeast. In this journey I observed some change in the land, for although its sterility continued, yet I saw during the day some little trees with leaves similar to the cypress. Upon descending a hill we found a village of more than ten houses. The people were roasting mescal, but as soon as they saw us they sprang up, leaving all their little utensils. Some soldiers went to catch them in order to allay their fears, but they could only overtake an old woman and three girls, the eldest of some twelve or fourteen years. They brought them, and it was seen that they all were modestly covered, and wore their civas on their heads. The captain gave them some beads, and sent them off to their village. About half-past eleven we arrived at Arroyo de Los Alamos, so-called by the Jesuit father because of the large number of cottonwood trees on its banks. We made camp there after four hours' travel, during 70 FRAY JUAN CRESPI which we must have covered three and half leagues. As the arroyo had no water they opened a batequi, but after it had been opened the soldiers said that lower down there was running water in the arroyo and also good pasture. Soon after our arrival here our neophytes came and brought us four large cakes of mescal, which were very savory and sweet. They gave them to me, saying that they had found in the sierra some twelve heathen who had given them the cakes to bring to me, with the message that on the following morning they would come to see me; but they did not keep their word. I divided three of the cakes among the neophytes and the other among the soldiers. The captain and I tasted it and it seemed to us a very rich preserve. It was made of mescal roasted, ground, and kneaded just like a loaf of bread. It is the staff of life for these heathen and those of the missions of northern California. When the father president arrived at this place he and all the company saw a number of heathen, who, from the top of a small hill that was in sight, were standing looking at them. They made signals to them through the neophytes, telling them that they were friends and came in peace; that they should have no fear, and should come down to the camp and receive the gifts that they would make them; but with all this they did not wish to come. Two or three of the Californians went toward them, but they immediately fled, and it was only THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 71 possible to catch one, who resisted so strongly that it was found necessary to tie him in order to bring him to camp, where he arrived trembling with fear. Being asked by the interpreters what his name was, he said it was Arajui. They gave him meat, tortilla, and dried figs to eat. He ate a little, but trembled with fear all the time; yet he continued to speak, and the interpreters said he gave it to be understood that he was sorry he had been spying upon them so long, but that he had been sent by his chief to keep watch upon them, so that when they went forward his chief, with all of his village together, and four other chiefs with their villages, might conceal themselves along the road and fall upon them, to kill the father and all his company, no matter how many there might be. As a reward for exposing this crime our people entertained him as liberally as they could, and sent him to tell his chief and the rest how well they had treated him, and that all should come and see our people, who were friends and came in peace. They did not permit themselves to be seen close by, but when our people took up the next day's march they saw many heathen standing on several hill-tops looking at them; but they never allowed themselves to be seen close up. What I shall relate below happened after they had made the day's march which follows: April 1.—At eight o 'clock in the morning we set out from this arroyo of Los Alamos, directly to the north, through a long range of hills, and along one 72 FRAY JUAN CRESPI of the best roads that we have had for many days. Exactly at twelve noon we arrived at La Cieneguilla, the day's march having lasted four hours, in which we must have traveled as many leagues. Up to here we have followed the route of the Jesuit, Father Line, as we were assured by some of the soldiers who are accompanying us, and who went on the exploration with that father; but from here we shall have to take another route, to the opposite coast. This Cieneguilla mentioned is at the foot of a high sierra. When we arrived at this place we found some small pools of water, but only enough to serve for the people, so they opened a well. After digging a little, sufficient water was found for the horses, and there was a little pasture for them. This afternoon the weather darkened, with a thick fog and a northwest wind, and the cold so intense that we could scarcely endure it. The whole afternoon was spent in trying to make altar breads for celebrating Mass, but not one could be taken out. Here one soldier and an Indian neophyte fell sick, and according to the way they describe it they will have to be carried on a litter, like the other whom they have been carrying for days. When the father president arrived at this place with the second division of the expedition they were obliged to endure the annoyance of having many heathen gather about them, over forty altogether. They were all armed and very noisy, obstructing the passage of the pack train and the horses. Being THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 73 asked by the neophytes who served as interpreters what they wanted, they replied that they did not wish that they should go on, and that they wanted to fight. As no arguments sufficed to quiet them and give a chance to catch the animals, the governor ordered the soldiers to fire, not to Mil anyone, but in the air, and by this means they were made to go away and leave them in peace. After leaving La Cieneguilla our people saw on the summit of the hills many armed heathen. As there was a bad and narrow pass in front, and being fearful that the heathen would fall upon them, they made ready with their leather-jackets and arms, but nothing happened, and it turned out to be a false alarm, although well-founded. A little while after leaving these heathen behind twelve appeared in the road, but apparently they were from a different village and of a different temper, for they proved to be very affable and friendly, offering to accompany our people and show them the camping place, which they did, and our people rewarded them the best they could. April 2, Dominica in albis.—I could not say Mass for lack of altar breads, for, as I said yesterday, after working all the afternoon it was impossible to produce even one that would serve. We halted to-day to give time to the explorers to examine watering places towards the opposite coast, and if possible by means of the many tracks that are to be seen, to find some heathen, with the object of 74 FRAY JUAN CRESPI obtaining from them some knowledge of the country and the watering places. I took the latitude of this place and it proved to be thirty degrees and fifty-six minutes. This afternoon an effort was made to make altar breads, with some success. April 3, Feast of the Annunciation.—I said Mass, which all attended, and about ten o'clock we broke camp, going north-northwest, guided by two24 heathen whom the explorers succeeded in finding yesterday, although one of them ran away from us at the beginning of the march and the one that was left was only a boy of some fourteen years. The neophytes are carrying the three sick men, one soldier and two Indians, on litters. After traveling half an hour we entered an arroyo without water, and along it we continued to a beautiful plain of good land, about a quarter of a league wide and two leagues long. About half of it is good land but the rest is sandy.25 In the good land at the foot of the hills of the opposite coast much verdure is to be seen. When they reached this place the father president told one of the Christian neophytes who went with the second division of the expedition, that in that green spot there must be plenty of water, and he named the place Santa Humiliana. Although the land continues to be sterile as before, yet a difference is perceived, for now some live oaks are met with, although small, and some wild date palms. The day's journey occupied four hours, during which we THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 75 must have traveled about three leagues. The entire march has been along the skirt of a high range. We found on the road three streams of running water, and grass for the animals. In one of them we saw many sycamores. The camp halted on another arroyo with running water and sufficient pasturage for the animals and which I named San Ricardo. During the day's journey two villages were observed, but not a heathen allowed himself to be seen, although there were many signs of them. From a high hill in this place the sea of the opposite coast is visible; they say it must be about ten leagues distant. April 4.—We set out from this place at ten in the morning, after experiencing a sharp frost. Going northwest by west, we traveled through the range, ascending and descending slopes of pure earth, for only in a few places were any stones to be seen. On one of these slopes we saw signs of an abandoned village, but although we saw many paths beaten down by heathen, not one permitted himself to be seen during the whole day's march, which occupied four hours and three quarters, and during which we probably traveled four leagues through rough country. We stopped in a plain well covered with grass. Running through it there is an arroyo of good water which flows according to the slope of the land. It has plenty of moist ground, and of all the country traversed up to here it is the best, for it has a beautiful grove of cottonwoods and 76 FRAY JUAN CRESPI willows. Camp was made under a very large white Cottonwood near the arroyo, which I named San Isidro, because we arrived there on this saint's day.* Although we did not see any heathen in this place nor during the march, the people of the second division of the expedition saw many, for the twelve that I said offered to accompany them did so. As soon as they left the camp they found their village of very well built houses, and these heathen, with others who accompanied them, went leaping down a declivity that followed, running, shouting, and going from one side of the road to the other with joyful shouts. As the road was bad and narrow, they impeded them, though their intention was good, for the animals were frightened and there was danger that they would hurl themselves over the precipice. They were told that this was enough, and that our people were satisfied with their hilarious demonstrations of friendship; but they repeated their gift of mescales to the neophytes, and, as the uproar was such that they neither heard nor understood, it went on just the same, and the loss of time continued. Their chief was now called and ordered to control his people. He did endeavor to quiet and collect them, but succeeded only in part. Finally the governor, who went ahead, fell back and made his *San Isidro is still on the map in the same locality, near the upper waters of Bio Santo Domingo. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 77 request more forcibly. Seeing that this was not enough, he was compelled to discharge a gun into the air, but without wounding anyone. Frightened by the sound, they ceased and retired. Shortly after their arrival at the arroyo three of these heathen, with no other arms than their pipes in their hands, presented themselves, saying that from the preceding camp word had been sent to them to welcome the Spaniards in peace, for they were all good people, and in fact they did so. The second division of the expedition arrived at this arroyo on the day of San Fernando, king of Castile, for which reason they named it San Fernando. April 5 we rested, in order to give time to the explorers to look for a pass by which to get through the high range ahead of us. At this place I buried one of the California Indians from the mission of San Ignacio, to whom I administered the holy sacraments of penance and extreme unction, and over his grave we left a cross planted. On account of this stop I had an opportunity to make an observation, and the latitude came out thirty-one degrees and five minutes. April 6.—At a quarter past eight in the morning we set out from this place, going west-northwest, and after a little while entered an arroyo between very high and rough hills. We then turned northwest, traveling along a declivity at the bottom of which we saw an arroyo grown with cottonwoods. 78 FRAY JUAN CRESPI We went on thus over rough and stony country, and afterward entered a valley with some level ground, well covered with grass and crossed by an arroyo with a good deal of water, which we conjectured to be the same as San Isidro, and which flows with the slope of the ground. The medium-sized plain of this valley appears to be of good land, and in places it shows that it has some moisture by different herbs, and by amarinths, some of which were gathered to eat. In the bed of the arroyo there are many cottonwoods, alders, willows, some pines, live oaks, and wild grapes. We pitched camp in a high valley that happens to be there, with plenty of pasture and water for the animals. The march occupied three hours and a half, during which we must have traveled three leagues without encountering a single heathen, although we saw many signs of them. I called this place the valley and arroyo of San Vicente Ferrer, and the father president, who stopped in it with the second division of the expedition, called it Santa Petronilla. In this place they succeeded in seeing eleven heathen who went to visit them, and seemed to be very mild and docile. They gave them food and tobacco, for which they all brought their pipes. They were very grateful for this and went away well pleased with our people. April 7.—We rested to-day while the captain with eight soldiers went to explore and to see if they could find water in order to make the march, THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 79 and whether we could get out of this rough mountain range. April 8.—We left the valley at eight in the morning, taking the road to the north-northwest. After about one league of travel we came to a large arroyo, or river, with plenty of running water, and in the short space of the league traveled over we saw nine large wolves all told. This little river has a good width. The water that runs in it is well closed in, and the bed is so crowded with cottonwoods and willows that not only on the banks but also in the middle it was necessary to cut trees in order to cross it, which it was necessary to do nine times, for the high mountains on both sides gave no chance for anything else. On entering the river the direction turns to the west-southwest, for the course of the river is from east-southeast to west-southwest. The march occupied four hours and a quarter, during which we must have traveled three leagues. We made camp on the bank of the river, on a little eminence on which there is a large live oak and good grass for the horses. I named this river San Dionisio. April 9, Second Sunday after Easter.26—I said Mass and we halted to rest, in order to give time for them to go early to-morrow and repair a bad pass which the explorers say lies ahead. I took the latitude of this place and it proved to be thirty-one degrees and eight minutes. : 80 FRAY JUAN CRESPI April 10.—Early in the morning I said Mass in order to give the viaticum to the soldier Guillermo, to whom I also gave extreme unction. He is very ill with a pain in the side, and for days they have been carrying him on a litter. At nine o'clock we set out from the camp, following the course of the river, which is to the west-southwest.27 We followed it for about three-quarters of a league and crossed it three times. At the last crossing it is spotted with a sandy stretch and fewer trees. It has a fall, near which there is an opening in the country, with a spacious plain. This morning they repaired the trail up the very high ridge which we have to climb. The plain passed, we began to climb the ridge, going northwest. We climbed to the top, but other higher ridges followed. After ascending the last one we thought we made out the sea, but it was not so, because this eminence was behind a very deep ravine and some medium-sized ranges, and another chain of hills,28 not less lofty than those already passed. After having climbed so high we found ourselves again descending to the foot of the sierra, where we saw a leafy, verdure-grown arroyo, with a good stream of water, in which there is a large pasture and better water for the horses. The march lasted three hours and a half, and we probably traveled two leagues. All the ranges and hills that we crossed in this march are clothed in fragrant rosemary, with many small trees that resemble cypresses, junipers, THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 81 small oaks, some pines, and other trees not known to us; and we now found very few stones, so many of which we have traveled over in California and on the whole stretch up to here. We pitched camp on a mesa at the side of the arroyo mentioned, which I named San Leon, after the saint whose day we celebrate to-morrow. A little while after our arrival the Indian neophytes from California, who follow on foot, came bringing a heathen Indian with three girls and a baby, all much exhausted. The girls were modestly covered behind with skins of coyote and deer, and in front with fibers well woven together; but the boy had no more clothing than nature gives, which is the only kind that the men use. Hanging from their hair they had snails29 and seashells. The captain gave them some beads and ribbons, but I had nothing for them. They were given food and were with us all the afternoon, in great good humor. They are very" poor, for it seems that the land lacks food, especially mescales. When the father president reached this place he examined the arroyo downstream for about a league, and ascended a high hill to see what there was to be seen. It seemed to him that farther down, in the direction of the opposite coast, there were lands well covered with grass and good for planting, and which could be irrigated with water from the arroyo, which has a grove of cottonwoods and live oaks and many Castilian roses. The father president 82 FRAY JUAN CRESPI named it the Arroyo de San Andres Hispelo, alias El Agua de Nuestra Serafica Religion. Before leaving this place I buried an Indian named Manuel Valladares,* of the mission of San Ignacio, to whom I administered the holy sacraments of penance and extreme unction. I felt his death very keenly, for he had served me as interpreter. A cross was planted over his grave. Anima ejus requiescat in pace. April 11.—At one in the afternoon we set out from this place, going toward the northwest. After traveling a little while through ravines, ascending and descending, the road turned. Coming out of the ravines we entered a dry arroyo, and through it came to a large plain. Afterwards we came to a mesa, and the road again turned to the west- southwest. After four hours' traveling we climbed a high hill which has some grass but with water only in a little pool in a small arroyo. We halted near it, but the animals will be left without water for there is scarcely enough for the men. The land on this day's march, during which we made about four leagues, continued sterile and with little pasture. The cocoba has followed us through all the marches up to the present, but here there was not even any firewood for our use. Up to this place a heathen boy had followed us, but here he was joined by another from the neighborhood and the two disappeared. The captain had clothed him * A place called Valladares is still on the map in the same vicinity. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 83 and I was already catechizing him and believed that he would reach baptism, judging by the signs that he gave. April 12.—At seven o'clock we set out from this place toward the southwest, and entered a spacious plain in the mountains. Afterwards we traveled along extensive ranges of hills, not at all rough, but without pasture or water, or a sign of it. The march lasted two hours and we must have traveled about as many leagues. We did not see a single heathen, although we saw many signs of them. We stopped at the end of the two leagues because we found a little grass for the animals, and to give the explorers an opportunity to look for water, for the horses have not drunk since day before yesterday, and there is no water left for us in the leather bags. I called this place San Angelo de Clavacio, but the father president, who also stopped here, called it San Pacifico. The explorers set forth and soon returned with the glad news that about a league away they had found running water in an arroyo. They immediately took the barrels and all the leather bags, and also the animals, so that they might drink their fill there. April 13.—At about a quarter to ten we started towards the northwest, and traveled over ridges of the mountains, which are not rough. The land continues sterile, without trees, but with large patches of grass. At the end of two leagues we encountered 84 FRAY JUAN CRESPI many mescales, the largest we have seen on the trip, and in such abundance that they gave no room for the animals to step. Among them were many patches of cocoba, which has not been lacking the whole way. After traveling four hours and a half, during which we must have made four leagues, we descended to a large valley, also crowded with mescales. We pitched camp at the beginning of the plain, to the east of it, where some grass was found but no water at all, and we only brought a little in the leather bags. As soon as we arrived the explorers went out in search of water, and came back with the report that to the west of the valley they had found a large pond of good water. This place was immediately named La Poza de San Tehno. April 14.—We rested in the morning with the intention of moving to the pond. At twelve I took the latitude, which was thirty-one degrees and seventeen80 minutes. At half-past four in the afternoon we left camp, crossing the valley from east to west. On departing from this place we left behind the groves of mescal, which had been very annoying to the animals. We crossed many paths well beaten by heathen, and saw many coyotes, deer, and antelopes, of these last a band of nine together. At nine o 'clock at night we arrived at the pond, the march having lasted four hours and a half, during which we must have traveled about four leagues over land as level as the palm of the hand. Before reaching the pond, THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 85 which lies to the west of it, this plain is all well covered with grass, among which we saw some patches of tule whence water flowed. At the end of the plain is the pond, near a narrow pass formed by the hills to the west. The water in the pond is fresh and clear, and it must be about a hundred and fifty varas long and twenty wide, and so deep that on the second division of the expedition a diver who went in close to the bank, after having been under water as long as he could bear it, came out saying he had not been able to reach the bottom. There are some fish in it, the most abundant being small turtles, about a hand- breadth in size, of which they caught some. I did not see any heathen; the explorers said they had seen four, but as soon as they saw them they ran away. The reverend father president says that when he stopped at this pond he saw many heathen on a high hill, one of whom came down to the camp and gave account of the first expedition, telling them that we had stopped near the sea, but very far away. He adds that from a high hill they made out the sea, which seemed to them to be about four leagues distant, and through a pass in the mountains they saw something like a harbor or bay. The father president named this pond Los Santos Martires Gorgonienses, but it previously had been given the name of San Tehno.* While there I took the * The San Telmo of to-day is in the same vicinity but nearer the 86 FRAY JUAN CRESPI latitude, which was thirty-one degrees and eleven minutes—seven minutes less than yesterday's camping place, on account of our having changed our direction in our day's march in order to reach the pond. April 15.—This day was set aside for rest and to allow the animals to enjoy the good pasture and water while the explorers go to look for a camping place for to-morrow's journey. They brought the sick soldier as far as this place on a litter. Thank God, he is now better and able to continue on horseback. Four Indians, neophytes of the mission of San Borja, ran away from us here. May God save them from misfortune. April 16, Third Sunday after Easter.81—After Mass we set out from this pond at half-past eight, going north. After traveling a little way we veered to the north-northeast, but afterwards we kept on to the north during the whole march, which occupied four hours and a half, during which we must have traveled about three leagues. On this march the mescales, cocobas, choyas, and other California cacti continued. We descended by a path well beaten by heathen, to a green and leafy valley, entirely surrounded by hills. It must be a little more than a league long and about a quarter of a league wide. It has plenty of grass and the land is good, although it gives signs of being alkaline. We pitched camp near good water, although we could see no current. Towards the opposite coast we saw cottonwoods, THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 87 alders, willows, and other trees. The explorers said that to the northwest of this valley there is another and better plain with running water. I called to-day's camping place San Rafael, to whom I pray this day. As soon as we arrived the explorers started to look for the camping place for to-morrow, and on their return they told us about the other valley. They brought one heathen man, two women, and a boy; the man was naked and painted all over, and horrible to behold; the women were modestly covered, as I said of the rest. We wished them to serve as guides to the watering places, but we could accomplish nothing because our neophytes did not understand any of their language. The commander made them presents of beads, ribbons, and some gourd cups, and with this sent them off, very well pleased. The reverend father president says in his diary that when they arrived at this place they saw a little grove and many heathen in it. One of them came down to the camp, bringing a stick in one hand and a timbrel in the other. They welcomed him with much attention and gave him food, but he would not taste it by any manner of means, although, in order to remove his suspicions, our people tasted it first. He gave them to understand that he was the dancer of that country, and that he could not eat without dancing first, and that if they would give him permission he would dance. They consented, 88 FRAY JUAN CRESPI and he began to dance and to play the timbrel. When the soldiers gave him some food he told them to put it in the center, and then changing his tone, he danced around it. Not content with this, he danced around all the packs, making a turn about the camp; having done this he had now the general permission to eat it all. He said that the first people, who had gone farther on, had stopped in this place, and that he offered to accompany them if they wished, but on condition that they would allow him to dance82 the whole way. They told him "Yes." Being asked what he was called, he replied "Matiropi"; and the father president said to him; "Well, from now on you will be called Bailon,* reserving the name Pascual until you are baptized.'' He remained in the camp until the hour of departure, when he ran off hike a deer to the hills and they saw him no more. The father president named this place Santa Margarita. April 17.—At eight in the morning we left the camping place, going north, and after traveling a short distance the road turned northwest. The day's march occupied five hours and a half, during which we traveled about five leagues, all through level land, but sterile, and with cacti like the preceding. The mountains on the sides were very high and bare, with here and there a small tree. We came to another valley which has a large, very green plain, and a large pond of salty water, although * Great dancer. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 89 it has some that is fresh and potable. It appears that the entire plain is full of alkali. I named it San Bernabe. April 18.—At eight in the morning we set out from this valley, going north-northeast, and after traveling a short distance the road turned to the northwest. At one league we found two little houses of heathen, with only one old man, of whom we inquired by signs where there was water. Taking up his bow and arrows he went ahead to guide us, but although he was given meat and tortilla he did not wish to eat. Here the country begins to open, with meadows and hills stretching out, but the land continues with the same sterility and without firewood. After four hours' travel, in which we must have made about four33 leagues, we came to a very large plain, with damp or marshy land, all clothed in green grass, and the old heathen showed us near a hill some little pools of fresh water, and good water for the animals. He was asked if he wished to accompany us farther, and he said "No." The commander made him a present of some beads, and he went back home well pleased. Through this place runs an arroyo with many cottonwoods, alders, and willows, and the plain stretches from north to southwest. It has arable land with plenty of moisture and is even marshy. We crossed the arroyo and saw some water running. It may be that lower down it runs with more volume. il 90 FRAY JUAN CRESPI I named this spot the Marsh of Santa Isabel, Queen of Hungary, and the father president named it Giiido de Cortona. Everybody thought it was a good site for a mission. I observed the latitude, which came out thirty-two degrees. April 19.—At eight in the morning we set out from the camping place toward the northwest, veering to the west. The journey lasted five hours and a half, in which we must have traveled about five leagues, over a bad road of ups and downs and gorges. We now found the mountains and hills covered with some small trees similar to the juniper, " and small oaks, but the land continued sterile and without grass. Many signs of heathen have been seen which indicate that the country is well populated, although the people do not permit themselves to be seen. At five leagues we came to an arroyo full of alders and plenty of grass, but without water, for which reason it was given the name of Arroyo Seco de Ios Alisos, although the second division called it San Nazario. We stopped near the arroyo, comforted by the fact that we had brought water for the people in the barrels and leather bags, though the animals were left without any. April 20.—At seven o'clock we left the dry arroyo, taking the road to the northwest. The first part of the march was through gorges and over medium-sized hills. After traveling one league, when we were on the top of the last hill we saw the sea on the opposite coast, distant from us about a THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 91 quarter of a league, but, although we desired to go down to the shore, the high, steep mountain gave us no chance, and so we took the road to descend to a valley in which we found plenty of grass, and water in a little pool used by the heathen. We made camp on a mesa near the little pool, the day's journey having covered two leagues. The pool had water, but was so deep that the animals could not drink from it, so they found it necessary to open a hole, from which a little water was obtained. Shortly afterwards, down the valley, they found running water under some trees, with which the animals satisfied their thirst. I named the valley Beato Jacobo Ilirico, choosing this saint for its patron. The father president, who passed it on the day of San Antonio, named it San Antonio de Ios Trabajos, on account of the troubles they had suffered from want of water. I observed the latitude and it came out thirty-two degrees and eight minutes. April 21.—At half-past six in the morning we set out from the camping place, after burying an Indian neophyte from the mission of Santa Gertrudis, who died after receiving the holy sacrament of penance and extreme unction; above his grave I fixed a cross. On setting out we took the road to the north, and after traveling a short time we entered another arroyo full of alders and with good pasture. The march occupied three hours, during which we must have traveled as many leagues. We halted in the same arroyo, which has running water, and which 92 FRAY JUAN CRESPI I called the Alders and Spring of San Anselmo, and which the father president named San Basilio. I did not see in it or in its vicinity any land on which the water could be used. April 22.—At eight in the morning we set out from the camp, traveling to the north-northeast. After going a little way we turned to the north and traveled a league and a half through valleys and over steep hills bare of trees, but very passable. We finally made out a large valley, but in order to go down to it we had to cross a very bad ridge, high and steep, but entirely of earth, so that the animals sank in half way up to their bodies. We descended to the plain, which had a length from north to south of about two leagues, and a width of about half a league. We camped in the middle of it near a spring, one of two which it has, about a stone's throw apart. By means of them the fertile land of the plain could easily be irrigated, and a good mission founded in it. When we left camp this morning our neophytes went to the shore. They came back late to the next camp, saying that the beach is near, and that an arroyo discharges into it, coming out of the side of the plain nearest the other coast, where we saw many trees. I called this plain San Francisco Solano. I observed its latitude, and it is in thirty-two degrees and ten minutes. There is enough pasture on the plain for the,animals, and all the hills are green with the grass which covers them. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 93 The second expedition stopped at this place on the day of San Antonio de Padua, for which reason the father president named it the Valley of San Antonio. He states in his diary that he explored it carefully, accompanied by the sergeant of the Leather-jacket Company, Don Francisco de Ortega, examining the large cottonwood grove that this valley has to the west-northwest, towards the shore. He says there are many cottonwoods and live oaks of all sizes, some of them very large. They saw in the grove a large marsh with many tules, and a channel of running water more than a buey deep. They could not go on to explore farther down lest some heathen should be killed. As a matter of fact, near the tules they encountered three heathen women, with whom they did not stop, but went on with the object of finding the source of the water. Before reaching it a band of heathen appeared on the summit of the hills and shouted at them. They called to them in peace to come down without fear, but they kept up their shouting. By the signs they made it was understood that they were telling the Spaniards to turn back. Seeing that they did not do so, a well-armed Indian scrambled down and ran in front, making gestures as though he wished to fight, and compelling the sergeant to make ready with his leather jacket and shield. The father president, seeing the danger to the life of the heathen, thought it was best to go back without finding the source of the water, postponing the search till a 94 FRAY JUAN CRESPI better occasion. But, according to what he saw of the valley, it seemed to him, as it did to me, a suitable site for a large mission. April 23, Fourth Sunday after Easter.34—After Mass was said we left the place, about eight in the morning, going straight north. Having left the plain we traveled over a hill and through a pass, in which we found a great many stones for building if a settlement should be made there. The whole ascent and descent, which is not very rough, is full of live oaks. After two hours' travel we came to another medium-sized valley, about a league long, which runs from northeast to southeast, all of very good land, with a good deal of marsh and wet land, and so much verdure that at first sight it looked like a cornfield. In the highest part of the valley there are many willows and tules. In the midst of this pleasant place there is a good pool of water, which runs for same distance within the green grove where it seems to sink. Although this water is very hot, almost as soon as it strikes the air it cools, and it is very good. Besides this water there are two other little pools of cold water from springs. Everybody thought it a suitable place for a settlement. I named it the Valley and Marsh of San Jorje, and the father president, who also stopped there, called it San Atenogenes, for the bishop and martyr, in deference to the sergeant, who has a very special devotion to this saint. In the afternoon the captain went out with eight soldiers to explore and look for a camping place THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 95 for to-morrow. They returned, saying that on the summit of a high hill about three leagues from the place they descried the sea, which beat upon the cliffs of that hill, and that it formed a very large bay with two islands in the middle, which we inferred to be the bay of Todos Santos. But they observed that the mountain range which followed was higher, precipitous and close to the sea, and had no pass, and also that the road to the north which we were following was taking us to the precipice, without any possibility of descending to the shore. For this reason it was necessary to stop here while the explorers looked for a road and water in another direction. April 24.—The explorers set out early in the morning. In the afternoon they returned with the report that they had found a way out and a water- hole at which to camp; but in the night it became cloudy, and began to rain hard, with a northwest wind which continued all night. April 25.—The day broke raining, and it continued all day and the next night, so that we could not leave the place. April 26.—The day dawned clear, but in order to give an opportunity somewhat to dry the clothing that had been wet, we did not leave until half-past ten in the morning, when we started northeast,85 turning our steps to the north after going a short distance. The march lasted three hours and a half, and covered three leagues of hard travel, during 96 FRAY JUAN CRESPI which we crossed hills grown with groves of small oak and other trees not known to us. During the entire day's journey we did not see a single heathen, though we did see trails well beaten by them. We reached the watering place that the explorers had found. It is an arroyo which has grass and some water, with some live oaks, alders, and other little trees which we did not know, but nothing else worth notice. I named it Los Santos Martires Clete y Marcelino, and the father president, who also stopped there, called it San Gervacio. April 27.—We set out from the camping place at eleven in the morning, carrying water for our use in the two barrels and all the leather bags, as a precaution against the chance that the next camping place might not have any. We went directly to the north and traveled three hours, in which we must have made about two leagues, all ups and downs. ALfter surmounting the first hill we descended to a dry arroyo which has some live oaks and alders, and pitched camp in a hollow without water. The explorers went out to look for some and to ascertain whether the very high mountain which we have close to us is very rough, and if there is any pass. They returned dissatisfied with their examination, saying that they had not found water and that the mountains ahead of us to the north do not permit passage on account of their roughness. We therefore have to content ourselves with the water that we brought as a precaution, and the animals with THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 97 the grass which, thank God, there is in this place. They will drink water when some is found. April 28.—Early in the morning the explorers started out to see if they could find water in another direction, for it was now badly needed by everybody. At the same time the captain decided that the pilot, Don Jose Caiiizares, should go out with six soldiers to explore at closer range, and ascertain whether the mountain36 gave any chance to descend to the shore. Both bands spent the whole day in their respective explorations. In the evening they returned, the first ones saying they had found a small spring of water about half a league behind the camp; and the pilot bringing the report that from a high hill they had seen the beach, which is a bay; that in it there are some islands; that he believed the descent could be made to the shore; but that in all the country he had traveled over he had not found water or any signs of it. April 29.—We started early in the morning, turning back about half a league from this hollow to the little spring of water that I said yesterday the explorers had found. It is in a very deep dry run37 with live oaks and alders. It has plenty of pasture for the animals, but although the spring has a sufficient flow of water, the animals could not drink from it; and even for the men it was very difficult. For this reason they opened a well, and enough flowed out for all, with which, thanks to God, we were relieved. I named this place the Spring of 98 FRAY JUAN CRESPI San Pedro Martir, and the father president, who stopped here, named it Santa Miguelina. In the afternoon the captain went out with ten soldiers to examine the bay and see if there is a passage by the beach, and to look for watering places, in order to continue the journey. April 30.—We rested in this place until the captain should come back from his explorations. I celebrated Mass, because it is the fifth Sunday after Easter. In the afternoon the captain returned well pleased, saying there is a passage along the shore of the bay, over level land all the way and with plenty of water and pasture for all, God be thanked and may He guide us on our way. May 1, Feast of the Holy Apostles San Felipe and Santiago.—I said Mass in the presence of everybody. Then we set out from the camp, going west- southwest, carrying water in the barrels and leather bags because the next watering place can not be reached to-day. The journey lasted five hours, through very rough gorges and with ups and downs. After about an hour's travel we saw the bay from a height and continued our way to it. We stopped in a hollow, in level land now, on the way to the beach. While descending the last slope we heard some heathen shouting and saw them raising a great cloud of dust. As soon as they saw us they turned back and ran at great speed, like deer. We stopped in the hollow, about a league before reaching the bay, having traveled about three leagues. I named THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 99 the place the Hollow of the Holy Apostles. We had no water here except what they carried, and the animals, though they had good pasture, went without drinking. May 2.—We started early in the morning towards the northwest, over level land, and after traveling a league we came to the shore of the bay, having crossed a ravine about half way. The day's march occupied three full hours, and we pitched camp on a high spot in a ravine formed by the first curve of the bay, about two hundred yards from the water of the sea. It is a delightful place, all of level land, well covered with green grass, and near the hills, which are not very high. There are some trees in an arroyo to the west which has no water. But there is plenty of it in some large pools, and although one of them is salty, the rest are of good water. I named the place Holy Cross of the Pools of the Bay of Todos Santos,* and the father president called it the Visitation of Nuestra Senora Maria Santisima. On reaching this place we found a village of heathen near one of the pools of water. But as soon as they descried us they fled with their arms to the hill, and although the captain ealled to them, making signs to them that they should come without fear, as we were friends and peaceable people, he accomplished nothing except that they shouted to us from above and made signs that we should turn back. * The bay still has the same name. 100 FRAY JUAN CRESPI May 3, Feast of the Holy Cross.—I said Mass in the presence of everybody. We rested this day in order to permit the explorers to lay out the road for the following march, while the horses enjoyed the good pasture and the abundance of water. I took the latitude and it came out thirty-two degrees and fourteen minutes. May 4, Great Feast of the Ascension of Christ.— I said Mass in the presence of everybody, and at nine o'clock we broke camp, going northwest. On leaving the place we made a circuit around a range of hills that descend to this first curve of the bay, and at the end of the first hour we found ourselves again on the seashore. We proceeded along the shore the rest of the march, which lasted three hours and a half, all over good level land, until we struck a hill which juts out into the sea. It has on its skirt a green hollow, with several pools of fresh good water, and we made camp near it. We called it the Pools of Santa Monica, and the father president named it Village of San Juan. Our explorers found in this place a large village which we did not find later on our arrival, doubtless88 because the inhabitants hid themselves in the hills through fear. The second division of the expedition found them, and the reverend father says in his diary that they were with them all day; that they were Indians of good appearance, affable and cheerful; and that they were much in love with these good-looking heathen. They gave the Spaniards fish and mussels, for which they THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 101 went to fish in their little canoes; and they danced for them in their fashion to entertain them, and begged them to remain there a second night. The mules caused the natives much fear and astonishment, and even when they were in the midst of our people, in perfect confidence, if they saw the mules come near they all trembled, and calling out "mula, mula," a term which they quickly learned, they tried to get away. In order to quiet them one of our men had to get up, take hold of the mules, and lead them aside. The men all go about naked, with quivers on their shoulders, while on their heads they wear a kind of crown made of skins of beaver and other aiiimals. They wear their hair cut like perukes and daubed with white and green with some taste. The women go modestly covered with woven fibers and skins. The bay has two islands in the middle of its mouth, and answers the description given to it by the pilot Cabrera Bueno. May 5 and 6 we rested in this place to give time for the explorers to examine the country and look for water for the succeeding journeys. May 7.—To-day, Sunday, after Mass was said, we started from this place about half-past seven in the morning, taking the road to the north in order to go to the watering place which the explorers had found. For a short distance we followed a very stony arroyo, and then climbed a very steep and stony slope. After an hour's journey we again saw the sea, though it was far away. We crossed a very 102 FRAY JUAN CRESPI green arroyo, full of alders and live oaks, but without water. After traveling four hours and a half, during which we must have made four leagues over hills and slopes, we came to a large valley with a great deal of pasture, trees at its ends, and a stream of water running among the tules. It has a good pool of water, and some live oaks.39 We made camp in the shade of a very large one, near the arroyo. I called this place the Valley of San Estanislao, and the father president called it San Juan Bautista. I observed the latitude and it was found to be thirty-two degrees and eighteen minutes. During this march some heathen shouted from some hills. Seeing that we paid no attention to them they followed us, but at a distance, and keeping on the tops of the hills. We came to the camping place and they stopped on the last hill, continuing their shouts and making motions with their hands for us to go away. There were about thirty of them, armed with bows and arrows. The captain signaled them to come to the camp, showing them the beads and ribbons; but there was no way to induce them to come down or to be quiet, so they kept on in this way, we paying no attention to them, until sunset, when they gave a great halloo and went off. May 8.—At half-past seven in the morning we left the camp, taking the road to the west-northwest. As soon as we abandoned the spot we heard a joyful shouting, and saw that they were the heathen, the THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 103 same number that we saw yesterday afternoon. They immediately went down to see if we had left anything and then, divided in two bands, they began to run to the summits of the hills that skirt the valley we were crossing. After half a league's travel it became necessary for us to ascend a pass, and then go through a narrow opening between hills. At the narrowest place we saw the heathen, who were almost above us and within gunshot. Seeing this, the captain ordered the pack train to halt, close up, put on their leather jackets, take their arms in their hands, and forming in a file, to maintain silence and pay attention to the movements and orders that he might give them. They did this instantly. As soon as the heathen, who numbered twenty-nine, and were apparently the same as those of yesterday, with their quivers of arrows, saw this movement, they halted a little beyond gunshot, divided in two bands. Half of them were on a knoll and the other half on the slope of the hill with bows and arrows in their hands, ready to draw the bow. One of them shouted at us, making motions with his hands, now up and now down, now to one side and now to the other. We kept this position about half an hour. At this juncture one of them slid down the slope of the hill, as though he wished to go behind some bushes where the horses were, in the rear of the file of soldiers, where I also was awaiting the outcome of the show. Seeing this, the captain, who was in the band40 of soldiers, went out with four of them, and little 104 FRAY JUAN CRESPI by little crept up to where the heathen was sliding down. As soon as he saw them the Indian rushed off at full speed to the place where the others were. The captain halted in the file, watching the movements of the Indians, who continued shouting. When one wearied another continued with his harangue while our men, with their eyes fixed upon them, remained quiet and awaited the orders of the captain. After a short time three of the band that was standing on top of the hill let themselves down little by little, but they never came within gunshot. And all three shot their arrows into the air; they fell near the captain, who ordered a soldier to fire and he fired himself. Thank God, there was no casualty, for they were not within range, as I said, and the firing was done only to frighten them and to prevent deaths. It did in fact serve this purpose, for as soon as they heard the shot they all fled, and did not stop until they reached the summit of the bill which was near the knoll; but from there, where they considered themselves safe, they kept up their shouting as before, while our people did not move or utter a word. We stood in this way about two long hours, until they grew tired, and, giving one yell, passed behind the hill. Some time having elapsed during which we did not see them, we again took up the march, until we came in sight of a very green valley with an abundance of water; but it was very deep, with a long, high, and even steep descent. It was already three o'clock in the afternoon, and we did not know at what point we could get down THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 105 into the valley, so the commander ordered camp pitched on a very spacious mesa near the beach, having an abundance of grass and mescales, until they could find a way to descend into the valley, whence water could be brought up for the use of the people, letting the animals wait until the following day. About three in the afternoon we halted on the mesa, which I called San Juan Bautista, about one league before reaching the valley. As soon as we arrived we saw the twenty-nine heathen on a height, some distance off, who did not go away until sunset. May 9.—Early in the morning we set out from the mesa. We went west-northwest, and after traveling a short distance descried the very deep green valley. We descended its long steep slope, all of earth or dust, into which the animals sank so that they seemed to be sliding rather than walking. As soon as we began to descend into the valley it looked to us like a mission already established, both on account of the verdure, which resembled a cornfield, and because the many little Indian houses which appeared to us like a town. The moment the heathen saw us they broke into an uproar, all coming out of their houses and running to some knolls, most of them not stopping until they reached a hill on the other side of the valley. At the foot of the slope we found a large running arroyo, with many tules in it, amid which there is a great deal of water in pools. 106 FRAY JUAN CRESPI We halted near the middle of the valley, not very far from the little houses of the heathen. After camp was pitched, seeing that the heathen remained on the knoll and the hill that I spoke of, and did not come down to the village, the captain approached them with two soldiers and without going down to the village called to those on the knoll and the hill which I mentioned, and to those who were nearer. He made signs to them not to be afraid and to come down, as he wished to give them presents, showing them a piece of cloth and a ribbon, but they did not move. Instead they made signs that he should leave these things and go away, and they would come down and take them. Complying, the captain left them on the ground and retired to the camp, when one of the natives went down and got them, leaving three arrows fixed in the ground. Near them he left a fish net, to repay the gift and as a sign of peace. The captain went and took it, expressing his thanks by signs, and inviting them again to come down to the camp. By this three of them were now encouraged to come to the camp, but with arms in their hands. They were caressed and entertained as much as possible. Encouraged by this, everybody came down, men, women, boys and girls, to their little houses or to the camp. They were all given presents and they reciprocated with roasted sardines. They told us, as we understood perfectly by the signs, that they had seen two 1 pass by, and that they were not far away. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 107 While they were with us and in very good humor, some heathen were heard shouting, and, looking, we saw that they were the same twenty-nine who had been following us during these days, and who had not learned their lesson. They were coming down the same slope by which we had descended. As soon as the friendly ones of this village saw them they fled like deer to the hill, and it was impossible to detain them. Without doubt they were from a hostile village, and they fled through fear, not feeling safe even with us. We regretted this greatly, for they had promised to go with us as far as the next camp to show us the watering place. The hostiles came half-way down the slope, where they stopped and sat down. They remained there shouting more than two hours, and when they were tired they gave one loud yell and went off, doing no damage except to frighten away the good Indians, who did not come near the village again, no doubt being afraid of the others, for from us they had nothing to fear. This place seemed to me suitable for a good mission, with water, land, pasture, and many villages, very near the shore. I named it the Valley of San Juan Bautista; the father president, who camped there, called it San Juan Capistrano. May 10.—Early in the morning we set out from this valley towards the northwest, and entered a canyon with many trees. After a little we climbed a high ridge, and traveled over some large mesas, 108 FRAY JUAN CRESPI covered with good grass. An abundance of wild beans were found here, which seemed to me very little different from the cultivated or ordinary beans. At these mesas nine friendly heathen from the village of San Juan Bautista caught up with us, having come to guide us as they had promised. They had left the village for the reason already stated. They now kept their word, showing us the road and leading us away from a high range which we had on our right. After four hours' travel we came in sight of a valley as green and pleasant as the one we left behind at San Juan. But we were at a standstill, not knowing how to descend to it, as much because of its depth as because we were on the top of a very high declivity down which it was necessary to go. Everybody alighted, and down we went, in some places standing up and in others sliding, in constant peril of rolling down, although we had the consolation that it was pure earth. In this way we went down to the vale or valley, which is grown with tule and a thick wood of very tall saplings. We did not examine the place, but a well was opened in the tule, which has marsh water, so that the animals could drink, and also to get water for the use of the people. By clearing out the trees from this valley it might serve for a town, taking the water from above. We arrived here after having traveled some four leagues from the preceding camp, and halted in the vale or valley, which I called the Wells of the THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 109 Valley of San Antonio, and which the father president, who also stopped there, called San Francisco Solano. The nine heathen from the preceding camp, who accompanied and conducted us more than half the way, also arrived here with us. Shortly after our arrival many heathen of both sexes and all ages began to descend from the hills into the valley, so many in number that we could not count them. They apparently belonged to four villages, for we observed that four of them, who were doubtless captains or chiefs, made us long speeches, of which we understood nothing, although we inferred from their signs that they offered themselves and their lands to us. We understood also, the same as from the preceding village, that they had seen two barks, and that they were anchored.41 They also spoke of the people who had come in them, and said that there were three fathers who wore the same dress as I, pointing to me and taking hold of my habit. The captain gave them beads, ribbons, and other little gifts, for which they were very grateful. They reciprocated with fish nets, which they carried tied around their waists, and many arrows, painted in all colors, with good flints. The men collected42 about six dozen, which were brought all the way to San Diego. They also gave us roasted sardines and mussels. All the men were naked and painted in different colors, and wore feathered head-dresses. They were all armed, most of them with bows and 110 FRAY JUAN CRESPI arrows, and some with macanas and long harpoons with points of bone. The women were also painted, but were modestly covered, wearing woven fibers as far as the knee in front and skins of beaver or seals behind. All the Indians seemed to us to be docile, friendly, and submissive. They remained in camp with us until very late, with the same confidence as though they were with their own people. At night they went to sleep in their villages. May 11.—Early in the morning we set out from this place, guided by many heathen, who were prompt to accompany us and guide us to the next camping place. We took the same direction as yesterday, to the north-northwest, veering to the northwest. As soon as we left the valley we came out on the seashore, crossing some large sand dunes. Nearly the entire march was by level land and close to the shore; but there were many canyons to cross, they being ravines of pure earth which must have been formed by the water that flows in the rainy season to the sea. One league from the preceding place is found a very wide green valley, with less brush than the one before. It ends on the beach, and we saw that an estuary opens into it. Farther back from the sea there may be fresh water emptying into the estuary. We did not examine it, but only saw it in passing, and we noticed that the coast here appears to be peaceful. Afterwards we crossed some mesas of earth with good grass and many mescales and prickly pears with sour fruit. I may THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 111 note that here the mescales end, and that farther up no more are met with. We went on, drawing away from the shore. Seeing that we were not taking their advice, the natives went away little by little, as if they were offended, and in a short time not a single heathen was left to us. We continued on our way, and after traveling five hours and a half, in which we must have marched four leagues, we halted in a little valley which has an arroyo with water running among willows, and wet ground with pools of fresh water. One pool, which is about a hundred steps from the sea, has running water which debouches on the beach. Near it there is a good village of heathen. We made camp on a mesa which is full of small bisnagas, and it was necessary to cut away many of them so as not to hurt our feet while in camp. The village was about two gunshots distant from us. I named this place El Vallecito de San Pio, and the father president, in his diary, called it San Benvenuto. As soon as we reached the camp we saw a heathen coming from the village, followed by all the rest, men, women, and children. The first one was very friendly, as if he had already communicated and dealt with us, and he did not stop talking and gesticulating. He wore some clothing, and some beads hanging in the cartilage of his nose, which he had pierced. He continually kept talking and laughing and examining everything in the camp. The captain gave him some ribbons and 112 FRAY JUAN CRESPI beads, and did the same with the others; but they were so stingy that even though they brought mussels they did not give us a single one. They demanded pay in advance, and it had to be just what they wanted, and nothing less. We soon learned that they were very wide awake, extremely clever, and very thievish, so much so that the heathen whom I first spoke of, who looked at everything with such confidence, stole some spurs and mangas from the soldiers, without anyone seeing him. When the father president stopped here on a feast day and said Mass this same fellow stole from him the little altar bell and his spectacles, and hid them close to the altar under the ground, so that they had a great deal of trouble finding them. For this reason they called that Indian Barrabas. May 12.—Early in the morning we left this place, going towards the north, along the shore, guided by some heathen from this village, who, without being invited, offered to accompany us. They followed us for about half the day's march, when they left us. The journey was a little more than three hours over country all passable, during which we crossed some ravines, though not so troublesome as the preceding ones. During this interval we must have traveled about three leagues, and we reached a village of heathen which is on a mesa that resembles an island, not bathed by the sea but surrounded by a ravine. As soon as these heathen saw us they invited us to stop near their village; but THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 113 it seemed better to cross the ravine and camp on the other side of it near the shore, which has plenty of grass for the animals. In the ravine there is a pool of fresh water from which this heathen village gets its supply. Men, women, and children are unpainted and without arms. They are very different from the preceding and are very peaceable, docile, and friendly. During the day they remained with us as confidently as though they were with their own people. They told us the two ships were near, showing that they were pleased about it. Opposite this place are the four islands called Los Cuatro Coronados. I called the place Pool of the Holy Martyrs, Nercio and his companions; the father president named it Carcel de San Pedro. May 13.—Early in the morning we left this place, continuing north, accompanied by seven heathen from the village. After traveling a little distance we had to descend a long and very steep slope to a deep arroyo; then, as soon as we got to the bottom we began to ascend a high pass, because the road which we were following along the beach was blocked by the steep cliff which juts out to sea. After traveling one league we passed a point of land which prevented us from seeing how the beach runs, and then we saw in a long stretch the level shore that we were to follow, all the land being well covered with green grass. From a height on this plain we could see that the ocean enters far into the land. In the bay we saw 114 FRAY JUAN CRESPI the mainmasts of the two barks, which were scarcely to be made out, on account of the distance that we were still away from them. This sight was a great consolation and a joy for everybody, for we found ourselves at last so near the desired harbor of San After three hours' march we came near to a populous village of heathen, along one side of which runs a good arroyo of water coming from the foot of a mountain range which we have had on the right during the entire day's march. At this place it retires about a league, forming a large plain of good land with much green grass. We stopped near the village, where we had good water and pasture for the animals. Although firewood is scarce, the mountains, which are not far off, have it in abundance. I named this village Sancti Spiritus, as it was the Eve of the Feast of the Holy Ghost, hoping that God with the fire of His divine love would light in the hearts of these heathen lively desires to receive our Catholic Faith. As soon as we arrived and made camp many heathen of both sexes and all ages came not only from this village but also from others near by. All were very much painted and well armed, the men with their bows and arrows, and with great plumage on their heads. These Indians are extraordinarily clever and spirited, great traders, and covetous of everything they see and like, and very thievish. They are vociferous when they talk, and when they speak they shout as though angry. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 115 This place is about half a league from a bay near the harbor. The heathen brought mussels, but if they were not given what they wanted and liked, by no means would they hand out a mussel. This afternoon it became cloudy and then it began to rain, and all were thoroughly drenched. May 14, Sunday, the Feast of Espiritu Santo.— Not only did it rain on us all night and thoroughly wet us all, but the morning opened very dark, and as soon as day dawned a heavy shower fell again, lasting about an hour and a half, which I endured without any other covering than my cloak and hat. Afterwards the day cleared, but the captain was of the opinion that I should not say Mass, because we were all so wet, and also because there was a large crowd of heathen standing there, all armed. Consequently we went without Mass, which I regretted very much, on such a great day as the first day of the Feast of Espiritu Santo. We were all anxious to reach the desired port, and we thought that we could get there in one day's march, even though it was somewhat long. In accord with these desires, notwithstanding that we are all so wet, the captain decided to break camp. We therefore set out a little before ten o'clock, continuing north, over a broad plain, withdrawing a little from the shore of the bay for fear that there might be marshes near the coast. The reverend father president, with the second division of the expedition, stopped about one league farther up, to the north of the village of Sancti L 116 FRAY JUAN CRESPI Spiritus, taking the direct road and approaching somewhat nearer to the shore, where, on this same plain, he also came across an arroyo with running water and good pasture which he named San Pablo. It seemed to him a very good site for a town or mission. This arroyo doubtless empties farther up the shore than we went, for we did not find it. In the space of three leagues after our departure from the village where we stopped yesterday we found to-day three villages of heathen, but apart from the road which we were following. All along the way we met heathen from those villages, all of them armed with their bows and arrows. The day's march occupied somewhat more than six hours and a half, all over level land, well covered with grass, during which we probably traveled about six leagues, and we arrived very fortunately and happily at the desired port of San Diego. As soon as we descried the camp the soldiers discharged their guns, giving a salute, and immediately those who were in the camp, as well as those on the packets, responded with their artillery and firearms. Immediately the three fathers who had come in the barks, and also the officers who were on land, came to meet us and gave us hearty embraces and congratulations that we were all now united in this port of San Diego. We soon had the story of their arrival and of the misfortunes that they had suffered on the sea from the scurvy. They also told us that many had died, and how the rest had been stricken with the same disease; and how the THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 117 packet San Antonio, alias El Prmcipe, had arrived first, which was on the 15th of February, although it was the last to sail from Cape San Antonio—I should say San Lucas. It dropped anchor in the port of San Diego on the 14th of April, and the San Carlos, which had left the port of La Paz on the 10th of January, had anchored in San Diego on the 29th of April. To the northeast of this port, not very far from its shore, there is a valley of good arable land, the length of which must be not less than three leagues, and the width half a league, or in the narrowest part a quarter of a league. In the middle of this valley ran a large river, six or eight varas wide, with water half a vara in depth, but it went on diminishing from day to day, so that in three weeks after our arrival it entirely stopped flowing, and there was left only water in pools. The bed of the river is everywhere very full of willows, cottonwoods, and alders. In the lower part of the valley there are some large live oaks, also many very leafy wild grapes, and Castilian roses loaded with flowers, a species of very fragrant wild rosemary, and an abundance of the wild fruit of the cocoba, which has not been absent on the whole trip. In this port and its vicinity there are many large villages of heathen. All the men are naked and most of them painted, as I have said of all the rest, but the women are modestly covered in front with woven fibers and behind with skins of animals. They are very intelligent Indians, noisy, bold, great traders, 118 FRAY JUAN CRESPI covetous, and thievish. They all go armed with their bows and quivers of arrows, and some with macanas. The beach abounds in large sardines, star fish, other species of fish, and mussels. All these heathen are fishermen, and they go to sea in rafts made of tule. The country consists of high hills, all of earth and without stones, and all covered with green grass and good pasture for every kind of stock. In front of the harbor, to the south, are the four islands named Los Cuatro Coronados, distant from terra firma about six leagues. The entrance to the port is from south to north, and its mouth, according to the observations made by the captains of the packets, is in thirty-two degrees and thirty- four minutes. The point where the mission was to be established, about three leagues farther north, is in latitude thirty-two degrees and forty-two minutes. After arriving at this port, while waiting until the father president should arrive in company with*3 the second division of the land expedition, in which came the governor of California, Don Gaspar de Portola, commander-in-chief of the expedition by land, we four friars who came employed ourselves in assisting the many sick that were there, both the volunteer soldiers of Catalonia and the crews of both barks, who were stricken with scurvy. The fathers told us that nine of the crew of the San Carlos had already died of it, two on the way who were cast into the sea, and seven who were buried on the shore where the camp was established.4* THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 119 At the end of June the sergeant of the Leather- jacket Company, Don Jose Francisco Ortega, arrived at this place, accompanied by a single soldier.*6 He brought the news that the governor, with the father president and the rest composing the second division of the expedition, were now near, being only about three marches away, and that he had come ahead to give us this information. Captain Don Fernando immediately ordered the sergeant to return with ten soldiers to meet the governor, who, as soon as he received this relief pushed forward and arrived at this port on the day of San Pedro. The reverend father president, with all the rest who composed that expedition, arrived on the first day of July, a little before midday. All arrived in good health, without the slightest accident, thanks to God, as regards the land expedition, except the Indian neophytes, some of whom died, as I have already said, and most of whom ran back to their own country. July 2.—As it was Sunday and the Feast of the Visitation of Our Lady, we sang a solemn Mass in thanksgiving to her most holy spouse, San Jose, patron of both expeditions by land and sea, since all parts of it were now congregated in this, their intermediate destination. As soon as the two divisions of the land expedition which was to be commanded by Governor Don Gaspar de Portola were united, he consulted with the commander by sea, Don Vicente Vila; and in view of the fact that all the crew of the packet San 120 FRAY JUAN CRESPI Carlos, the flagship, were ill, and many of them already dead, and that the other packet, the San Antonio, lacked little of being in the same condition, the two chiefs decided that the packet El Principe should sail with the few men that it had left for San Bias, to inform his Excellency of the state of these expeditions, and that the land party should continue their journey to look for the port of Monterey. This plan was carried out, El Principe sailing from the port of San Diego on the 9th day of July. The governor decided that the expedition should resume the march by land on the 14th of the same month, as was done, with the expectation that the bark San Jose, which it was said would leave California in May with provisions, would overtake us on the road or at the port of Monterey. This expedition is composed of the governor and commander-in-chief, Don Gaspar de Portola, with a servant; Captain Don Fernando Rivera y Moncada with his servant; Lieutenant Don Pedro Fages, with seven of his soldiers of the Free Company of Catalonia; twenty-seven leather-jacket soldiers; Engineer Don Miguel Constanzo, and fifteen Christian Indians,*8 California neophytes. The reverend father president decided that I, in company with the reverend father preacher Fray Francisco Gomez, should go with this expedition, his Reverence remaining in San Diego, with Father Fray Juan Vizcaino and Fray Fernando Parron, to make a beginning of the first mission, until the THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 121 bark San Jose should arrive, in order to go in it by sea to Monterey. The commander left as escort in San Diego eight leather-jacket soldiers, all ill, not only the volunteers of Catalonia, but also the crew of both barks. The chief surgeon was left to give them medical care, and as laborers some California Indians who had come with the second division, and a serving boy. All the rest, seven in number, go as muleteers with the land expedition to Monterey, making the total of this company seventy-four, including the two friars, the father companion, Fray Francisco Gomez, and myself.*7 Fray Juan Crespi. JOURNEY OP THE LAND EXPEDITION FROM SAN DIEGO TO MONTEREY48 Diary and Itinerary of the Expedition from the Port of San Diego de Alcala to that of Monterey, Leaving on the 14th of July, 1769 Friday, July 14,1769.—We set out from this port of San Diego on this day of the seraphic doctor, San Buenaventura, about four in the afternoon. We went northwest, over level land well covered with grass on account of the proximity of the estuaries, which have good salt deposits. Afterwards we came upon the beach of tine second harbor that San Diego has, although it is closed, so that it cannot be entered.* On some parts of the road there are rosemary and other small bushes not known to us, and on the right hand we have a mountain range, moderately high, bare of trees, of pure earth well covered with grass. We saw many hares and rabbits, for this port abounds in them. At about two leagues we came to a very large village of heathen who are in a valley formed by this second harbor where there are some small springs of water. We •Now False Bay. The village was near the northeast point of the bay. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 123 called this spot the Village of the Springs of the Rinconada de San Diego. As soon as the heathen saw us approaching they all came out into the road, men, women and children, as though they came to welcome us, with signs of great pleasure. We gave them such presents as we could. Here we left the shore, and entered a valley between hills but on the same road. It has many willows and some alders and live*9 oaks, and we understood from the heathen of the preceding village that in this valley there were some small pools of good water, and we believed it to be so because it was so green. Although the valley is not very broad it is well covered with grass, and on all sides of it there are knolls, ridges, and hills, all of good land. We found small pools, which contained water enough for the people but the horses had nothing to drink. After traveling two hours and three quarters, in which we must have covered about two and a half leagues, we stopped and made camp near the little ponds which we called the Pools of the Valley of San Diego.* As soon as we arrived at this place, it being already dark, the heathen came. They brought50 some very large sardines, and one of them made a long speech, after which the governor and the captain accepted the sardines, reciprocating with beads and some clothing, with which they left in great good humor. Day's march, two leagues and a half. Saturday, July 15.—About half-past eight in the morning we left the place, following the same direc- * Camp was not far from LadriUo. 124 FRAY JUAN CRESPI tion to the northwest. We ascended a large grassy hill, all of pure earth, and then found ourselves on some very broad mesas of good soft ground, all covered with grass, not having encountered a stone since leaving San Diego nor any other trees than those spoken of in the preceding valley, except that here and there we saw some very small oaks and chaparral. We saw seven antelopes running together on this mesa and at every moment hares and rabbits came running out. After about a league and a half of travel we came to a very beautiful valley, which, when we saw it, seemed to us to be nothing less than a cultivated cornfield or farm, on account of its mass of verdure. On a small eminence in this valley we saw a village of heathen, with six little straw houses. Upon seeing us, all of them came out into the road, in great good humor and making demonstrations of joy. We descended to this valley and saw that its verdure consisted of very leafy wild calabashes, and many Castilian roses. These heathen have near their village a pool of water in an arroyo. This valley runs from southeast to northwest, and is about one league long and some four hundred varas wide, all of good pasture,61 with some live oaks and alders. We called it the valley of Santa Isabel, Queen of Portugal.* We stopped a little while so that the commander might distribute some beads among the heathen of this village, and then continued on our way to the north side of the valley, with a * Soledad Valley, near Sorrento. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 125 heathen of the village who voluntarily offered to accompany us to the camping place. In about half a league's travel, at the end of the valley we came to a medium-sized pool of fresh water, in which we saw two pots of baked clay, very well made. Here we turned into a valley which lies to the north and traveled through it, over level land well covered with grass, from which we saw another valley better than the preceding, and went down to it. We pitched camp near a large pool of good, fresh water, which the soldiers called the Well of Ozuna, and which we called the valley of San Jacome de la Marca,* asking that saint to intercede with the Most High for the conversion of its heathen natives, and that a mission might be formed here, with him as its patron, since the site is apparently very suitable and invites it. The march this day covered three and one-half leagues. The valley must measure about one league from north to south and about half a league from east to west; all the land is level, very verdant, with much pasture, many wild grapes, and other herbs. To the south of this valley there are three large pools, and to the north, according to the story of the explorers, there is a very verdant arroyo, and some other very large pools. Near the southern pools, on a slope, there is a large village of heathen and many well built houses with grass roofs. As soon as we arrived about eighteen heathen came to visit us, with their * San Dieguito Canyon, near Del Mar. 126 FRAY JUAN CRESPI women and children, all very affable and not at all noisy. It seems that this place is near the sea, judging by our view of it as we came down the valley. The hills that surround this valley are not very high, and are all of pure earth, covered with pasture, the only thing lacking to the site being trees. Many scorpions have been seen, but no one has been bitten by them. Day's march, three and a half leagues. Sunday, July 16.—On this day we two fathers celebrated the holy sacrifice of the Mass, which was heard by aU the people, and at half-past two in the afternon we set out north and northwest, traversing the entire plain; then we climbed a bare hill which followed soon afterwards, with a small wood of little trees unknown to us, and some chaparral. Passing over it, we came out upon some broad grassy mesas, and in about two leagues and a half we descended to a very green valley, with good level land covered with alders. In this valley we came across a village of heathen who, as soon as they saw us, all came running to us, in great good humor. They showed us a little pool of water that was there for their use, and we understood that they were asking us to remain; but, as this was not the spot the explorers had picked out for the camping place, we stopped only a little while. The commander gave some beads to the chiefs, and in passing we called this place the Valley of the Triumph of the Holy Cross, to which we prayed.* * Apparently San Elijo Lagoon. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 127 We proceeded on our way, accompanied by all the heathen, who told us that farther on there was another small watering place. In about half a league we came to another little valley with many five oaks, where we found62 a small stream of water, which ran a short way in the midst of some blackberry bushes, where we found another village which had only six women. We saw that they had some pots and jugs of baked clay, well made. We called this place the Spring of the Valley of Los Encinos. Then followed extensive hills, with good land and pasture. After about one more league of travel we descended to another very green valley, with good black soil, and from this we entered still another, very green and with good land well covered with grass. In the last valley we made camp near a hill which has two springs of water, one on one side of the hill which had about a limon of water, and one on the other side with about one finger of running water, from which, by digging it out .a little, the animals could drink. Both springs are surrounded by Castilian roses, of which I gathered a branch with six roses open and twelve about to open. Right after this valley there comes another, with a village of heathen. As soon as they saw the camp made, the whole village, which was composed of eight men, three women, and four children, came down. Their chief made us a harangue, and when it was concluded they sat down as though they had always known us. One of the heathen came smoking a pipe of black clay, well made. We called this place San 128 FRAY JUAN CRESPI Alejo.* The day's march occupied four full hours, and we must have covered about four leagues. On the following day I observed our latitude and it proved to be thirty-three degrees, exactly. Monday, July 17.—At three in the afternoon we left the camp, following the valley in a northerly direction. In a little while we climbed a very grassy hill without rocks, in open country, then traveled over mesas that are in part covered with grass and in part by a grove of young oaks, rosemary, and other shrubs not known to us. Aside from this all the land is well covered with grass and is mellow. After traveling about a league we descended to a valley full of alders, in which we saw a village, but without people. In passing we named this valley San Simon Lipnica.f It is not very far from the shore, and at the end of it we saw an estuary, although the sea was not visible. We continued on our way in the same northerly direction, over hills and broad mesas supplied with good pasture, and after about one more league's travel we descended to a small, very green valley, which has a narrow plain some fifty varas wide. We pitched camp on the slope of the valley on the west side. The water is collected in pools, and we noticed that it flowed out of several springs, forming about it marshes, or stagnant pools, covered with rushes and grass. We named this place Santa Sinforosa.| We saw from the camp a village of heathen on the summit of * Batequitos Lagoon. f Agua Hedionda Creek. X Buena Vista Creek, near Carlsbad. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 129 a hill, who, having been informed by their neighbors of San Alejo, deputed two of their number to ask permission to visit us. They were given to understand by signs that they must put it off until the following day, as it was late, but, as soon as they went back to their village all its inhabitants came to camp. Not fewer than forty presented themselves. As soon as they arrived their leader made his speech, with excellent gestures; but without waiting for him to finish his harangue, he and his people were given some beads and dismissed. The next morning they returned and remained until our departure. Tuesday, July 18.—A little after three in the afternoon we set out to the north. We climbed a hill of good soil, all covered with grass, and then went on over hills of the same kind of land and pasture. We must have traveled about two short leagues, when we descended to a large and beautiful valley, so green that it seemed to us that it had been planted. We crossed it straight to the north and pitched camp near a large pool of water, one of several in the plain. At the extremities or ends of the plain there are two large villages. Soon after our arrival the heathen came to visit us. There were more than forty Indians, naked and painted from head to foot in several colors, which is their usual custom when they go visiting or to war. They all came armed with bows and arrows, and their chief made the accustomed harangue. When it was concluded they threw their arms on 130 FRAY JUAN CRESPI the ground and sat down near us. The governor took out some beads, and, giving half of them to me, requested that we two should distribute them among the Indians. They gave the governor a present of a few fish nets made of thread that they make out of some fiber which, when it is spun, looks like raw hemp. Behind the men followed the women and children, who numbered more than fifty, but they did not dare to come near. We made signs to them not to be afraid, and after one of the heathen spoke to them they came at once, and we gave them also presents of beads. The women were modestly covered, wearing in front an apron of threads woven together which came to the knees, and a deerskin behind. To cover the breasts they wear little capes made of hare and rabbit skins, of which they make strips and twist them like rope. They sew these strips together, to protect them from the cold as well as for covering for modesty's sake. Most of the women go clothed in the same manner, but all the men go as naked as Adam in Paradise before he sinned, and they did not feel the least shame in presenting themselves before us, nor did they make any movement to cover themselves, just as though the clothing given them by nature were some fine garment. This valley must be about two leagues long from northeast to southwest, and about half a league wide in the narrowest place. To the southwest it ends on the beach, which must be about half a league distant from the camp, although there is a hill which THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 131 prevents us from seeing the ocean. We found no running water, although we saw three arroyos which are dry and apparently run only when it rains. There are, indeed, pools of good water, with tules on the banks. The valley is all green with good grass, and has many wild grapes, and one sees some spots that resemble vineyards. I gave this valley the name of San Juan Capistrano, for a mission,* so that this glorious saint, who in life converted so many souls, may pray God in heaven for the conversion of these poor heathen. Next morning the Indians came back, and my companion, taking up the image of the Holy Christ, spoke to them by signs about God and Jesus Christ crucified, and about heaven and hell, and they showed that they understood some of it, and looked remorseful and sighed. But, although they saw that the two fathers, the commander, and all the officers venerated the images of Christ, and we told them to do the same, and with this object raised it to their mouths, they were never willing to kiss it, but drew back and pushed it away with their hands. But this was attributed to their lack of knowledge and their failure to understand what we told them. I observed the latitude and it was thirty-three degrees and six minutes. The march from the last place covered about two short leagues. Wednesday,68 July 19.—On this day we halted, in order to give Sergeant Don Jose Francisco Ortega * San Luis Rey Mission was founded near the site several years 132 FRAY JUAN CRESPI time to go with seven soldiers to explore for the next marches, while Nwe entertained ourselves with the heathen, who did not leave us the whole day. There were more than two dozen of them together in the camp. Thursday, July 20.—We set out about seven in the morning, which dawned cloudy, and, taking the road straight to the north, we traveled by a valley about one league long, with good land, grassy, and full of alders. This passed, we ascended a little hill and entered upon some mesas covered with dry grass, in parts burned by the heathen for the purpose of hunting hares and rabbits, which live there in abundance. In some places there are clumps of wild priekly pear and some rosemary. A league and a half from the camping place we saw another beautiful green valley, well grown with alders and other smaller trees. On going down to it we saw a lagoon which the explorers said was salt water. We pitched camp in this valley near a pool of fresh water; the reason for stopping, although the march has only covered a league and a half, is because, since the departure from San Diego, we have had on the right a very high mountain range, and we are now apparently going to meet it, and it is necessary to explore it before crossing it, for it seems as though it is going to end on the beach. The pool of water, which I just saw, is more than a hundred varas in length, and its water is very clear and good, i this one the explorers say that lower down THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 133 in the arroyo from the north, there are some more pools, and that a good stream of water runs from them, and they have good lands on which crops might be raised by irrigation. According to this, the place is better suited for a town than the preceding. Because we arrived at this place on the day of Santa Margarita, we christened it with the name of this holy virgin and martyr. As soon as we arrived the heathen of the village, and counting men, women and children, they made not less than sixty, who have their town on the same plain, came to the camp. We gave them presents of beads and sent them off.* Friday, July 21.—We set out in the morning toward the northwest, because the mountains prevented us from going north. We climbed a hill which has some stones, near the valley from which we had emerged, and from the height we saw the valley of Santa Margarita, which extends more than a league from north to south. We went on over hills of moderate height, all grassy, and halted near the water, which is in the grass, so that we could not judge whether or not it was running. What we did see was a great deal of water, and that the spot was full of grape vines and innumerable Castilian rosebushes and other flowers. For this reason it was called the Valley of Santa Praxedis de Ios Rosales.f * Camp was near Home Ranch. This camp and the next are commemorated in the name of Santa Margarita y Las Flores Raneho. t Las Pulgas Canyon. 134 FRAY JUAN CRESPI Very near there we found a small village from which three men immediately came to visit us, with eleven women and some children. We entertained them, and the captain gave them some beads. This valley has a width of about a quarter of a league, but in parts it narrows more and more; its length runs from northeast to southwest. To the north- northeast it comes to a high mountain range,* which is distant about a league and a half from the spot where the camp was pitched. In that direction there are many live oaks, and the same on the skirts of the mountains. To the southwest it seems that there is a valley which extends to the beach, although it cannot be made out. From this place I observed the latitude, and it was thirty-three degrees and ten minutes. The day's march was about two leagues. Saturday, July 22.—This day dawned cloudy for us. About seven o 'clock we set out west and climbed a grassy hill. In a little while we entered a valley which turned to the north-northwest, and which communicates with that of Los Rosales. We traveled in the mountains, for they are not rough but open, with hills and extensive mesas, covered with a great deal of grass and grown with live oaks and alders, especially in the little valleys and arroyos, with an abundance of Castilian roses. Three mesas covered with large live oaks were encountered. About eleven o'clock we came to a pool of water, after having traveled some four leagues from the preceding place. This pool of fresh water is in a dry arroyo, which * Santa Margarita Range. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 135 is grown with many alders. We made camp near the pool, and immediately about fourteen heathen, and as many women, with boys and girls, came and showed themselves to be very friendly; we entertained them and made them gifts. The explorers informed us that on the preceding day they saw in the village two sick little girls. After asking the commander for some soldiers to go with us to visit them we went, and we found one which the mother had at her breast apparently dying. We asked for it, saying that we wished to see it, but it was impossible to get it from its mother. So we said to her by signs that we would not do it any harm, but wished to sprinkle its head, so that if it died it might go to heaven. She consented to this, and my companion, Fray Francisco Gomez, baptized it, giving it the name of Maria Magdalena. We went then to the other, also small, who had been burned and was apparently about to die. In the same way I baptized it, giving it the name of Margarita. We did not doubt that both would die and go to heaven. With this, the only success that we have obtained, we fathers consider well worth while the long journey and the hardships that are being suffered in it and that are still awaiting us. May it all be for the greater glory of God and the salvation of souls. For this reason this place is known to the soldiers as Los Christianos; I named it San Apoli- nario; others called it Valley of Los Bautismos.* •Now Cristianitos Canyon, north of San Onofre. 136 FRAY JUAN CRESPI Sunday, July 23.—After we two had said Mass we started at seven o'clock, going to the north- northwest. On leaving this place we ascended a large hill, not very rough and all of pure earth, covered with dry grass. Having gone through the pass54 we went on over mesas, hills, valleys, and dry arroyos, ascending and descending, all the land being well covered with grass. We passed two valleys with two dry arroyos, both grown with alders and large live oaks. In one of the valleys we found a village of heathen, who, as soon as they saw us began to shout; and they came out, as if to meet us at the watering place, where we went55 to stop. We must have traveled this day about four leagues in the four hours on the road. A little before eleven we came to a very pleasant green valley, full of willows, alders, five oaks, and other trees not known to us. It has a large arroyo, which at the point where we crossed it carried a good stream of fresh and good water, which, after running a little way, formed in pools in some large patches of tules. We halted there, calling it the valley of Santa Maria Magdalena.* In the journey of this day we came upon some deposits of fine red ochre, and some others of very white earth. They are on some hills near which we passed, and we inferred at once that from this earth the heathen • Now San Juan Capistrano. The route from here was along the foothills east of the Santa Ana Valley, across La Puente Hills by La Habra to Bassett. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 137 provide themselves for their paint, which is their gala dress for their visits and their war feasts. I observed the latitude of the valley of Santa Maria Magdalena, and found that we were in thirty-three degrees and fourteen minutes. Monday, July 24.—We got up early this morning and broke camp at a quarter past six. Going north- northwest, we descended from the high hill on which we had stopped to a valley in the same direction. Before we left about nine heathen from a village in this valley allowed themselves to be seen. After traveling a short distance in it we came to two good villages, whose people were all very friendly. We greeted them in passing, and they made us their speech, of which we understood nothing. We traveled through this valley for about two leagues; it is of good land, but they had burned all the grass. From ridge to ridge it is about five hundred varas wide. After two leagues' travel we turned to the northwest, veering considerably to the west, in order to climb a high pass through a range of grass- covered hills;66 and after traveling about a league over good mesas we descended to a pleasant arroyo, and a valley very full of large alders and live oaks, so that it looked like a fig orchard. After about three hours on the road from the starting place, during which we must have traveled as many leagues, we pitched camp on a very long mesa of earth, which runs to the foot of a high mountain range, from which flows an arroyo of good 138 FRAY JUAN CRESPI water.* Instantly the Indians from a village in the valley came to visit us. They came without arms, and with a friendliness unequaled; they made us presents of their poor seeds, and we made return with ribbons and gew-gaws. Nearly the whole day they remained with us, men, women and children; and these heathen listened with more attention to what we told them by signs, of God, of Jesus Christ, and of their salvation, and several times they devoutly venerated the Holy Christ and the cross of the crown. The soldier explorers said that the preceding day, from the top of a hill, they made out six islands. Several of us went to the hill, but we saw only two, which they said must be San Clemente and Santa Catarina. The latter was just opposite us, and they said the bay of San Pedro must be about five leagues distant from our camp. Because we arrived at this place to-day, the day of San Francisco Solano, Apostle of America, we gave it his name, so that with his intercession the conversion of these docile heathen may be accomplished by founding for them on this spot a mission dedicated to him as patron, since the place and the docility of the heathen invite it, for I have made them say the acts of Faith, Hope, and Charity, and, without knowing what they did, they repeated it with devotion and tenderness, or at least their voices caused tenderness in my heart. Tuesday, July 25.—This day we rested since it was that of the patron of our Spain, and we two •Alisos Creek, near El Toro. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 139 priests celebrated the holy sacrifice of the Mass. We had another visit from the heathen of this village. We observed that they have houses made of willows, and large baskets of reeds so tightly woven that they hold water. They have given us to understand that in the interior there are people like us, who are clothed the same, and that the soldiers carry swords and wear hats, and that they have horses and mules, pointing to those that we have. God knows what truth there is in their talk, or if we misunderstood them. This place is in latitude thirty-three degrees and eighteen minutes. Wednesday, July 26.—On this day we celebrated the holy sacrifice of the Mass, which was heard by all the people, and about three in the afternoon we set out, with the object of breaking the next day's march, which was long, according to the report of the explorers. At first we went northwest, making our way through a valley full of wild grapes and Castilian roses. All the valleys and the hills on both sides are of pure earth, well covered with grass, and without a single stone. So we went on over very open country, with hills and broad mesas, ascending and descending through three or four little valleys of good soil well grown with alders. After traveling two hours and a half we entered a large plain. At the beginning of it we pitched camp near a dry lagoon on a slope, from which we examined the spacious plain, the end of which we could not see.57 Near the camp some verdure was to be seen, and when the father companion approached it he found 140 FRAY JUAN CRESPI two small springs of water, clear and good, for which reason the soldiers called this spot the Springs of Father Gomez, and I christened it with the name of San Pantaleon.* Thursday, July 27.—About six in the morning we set out, crossing the plain and continuing to the northwest. We halted after three leagues' travel near an arroyo of running water, although it was evident that it was diminishing because of the drought, and little by little the waters were being absorbed by the sand. It has willows, grapevines, brambles, and other bushes. It comes down from the mountains, and shows that it must have plenty of water in the rainy season. It was given the name of the holy apostle and patron of the Spains, Santiago.! If this watering place should remain throughout the year, it would be a site for building a city, on account of the large amount of land and the extensive plain that the arroyo has on both sides. We saw only two heathen near the camp. I observed the latitude, and it is thirty-three degrees and thirty-six minutes.58 Friday, July 28.—About seven in the morning we set out, continuing our way to the northwest along the skirts of the mountains which we have on the right, to the north, and after traveling a league and a half we came to the banks of a river which has a bed of running water about ten varas wide * In the Santiago Hills east of Tuston. t Still called Santiago Creek Camp was in the hills northeast of Orange. THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 141 and half a vara deep. It is not at all boxed in by banks. Its course is from northeast to southwest, and it empties through this place, according to the judgment of those who sailed to the bay of San Pedro. It apparently has its source in the range that we have in sight on the right, about three leagues from the road that we are following. The bed of the river is well grown with sycamores, alders, willows, and other trees which we have not recognized. It is evident from the sand on its banks that in the rainy season it must have great floods which would prevent crossing it. It has a great deal of good land which can easily be irrigated. We pitched camp on the left bank of this river. On its right bank there is a populous village of Indians, who received us with great friendliness. Fifty-two of them came to the camp, and their chief told us by signs which we understood very well that we must come to live with them; that they would make houses for us, and provide us with food, such as antelope, hares, and seeds. They urged us to do this, telling us that all the land we saw, and there was certainly a great deal of it, was theirs, and that they would divide it with us. We told him that we would return and would gladly remain to live with them, and when the chief understood it he was so affected that he broke into tears. The governor made them a present of some beads and a small silk handkerchief, and in gratitude the chief gave us two baskets of seeds, already made into pinole, together with a string of beads made of shells 142 FRAY JUAN CRESPI such as they wear. I called this place the sweet name of Jesus de Ios Temblores, because we experienced here a horrifying earthquake, which was repeated four times during the day. The first, which was the most violent, happened at one in the afternoon, and the last one about four. One of the heathen who were in the camp, who doubtless exercised among them the office of priest, alarmed at the occurrence no less than we, began with frightful cries and great demonstrations of fear to entreat heaven, turning to all the winds. This river is known to the soldiers as the Santa Ana.* Saturday, July 29.—At two in the afternoon we set out from this place and crossed the river with great difficulty, on account of the swiftness of its current, and followed the plain to the northwest. Near the river the mountains have many prickly pears and much sage, but afterwards all the land continues fertile and is well covered with good grass. After traveling a short distance we turned to the north-northwest, and after marching a league and a half we again turned to the northwest, in order to ascend the nearest mountain range, which was now very low and comes to an end to the west- northwest. We climbed a medium-sized hill, quite steep, and descended to a very green little valley, which has a small pool of water, on whose bank there is a very large village of very friendly heathen. • Still called by the s Anaheim. f Olive, east of THE PORTOLA EXPEDITION 143 We made camp on a hill near the pool which has good grass for pasture. As soon as we arrived the whole village, which numbered more than seventy69 souls, came to visit us. They invited us to go to stay at the village, but, in order not to be incommoded we remained on the hill, at the foot of which there is a beautiful valley of many leagues of good land. But the place has no water except the pool, which was only enough for the people, for which reason the animals were left without drinking. This afternoon's march occupied two hours, during which we traveled about two leagues. The place was known by the name of Santa Marta.* The Indians of this village were having a feast and dance, to which they had invited their neighbors of the river called Jesus de Ios Temblores. Sunday, July 30.—Af ter we two priests had celebrated Mass with all the people present, we started about seven and descended the hill, continuing to the north-northwest. We crossed the large plain, which has an extent of more than four leagues. To the west,60 far away, it seemed to communicate with the preceding valley, and in that direction some mountains were seen, with many trees at their base. Crossing the plain, we ascended a passf and entered a valley of very large five oaks and alders. We then descended to a broad and spacious plain of fine black earth, with much grass, although we found it burned. After traveling for an hour through the valley we * La Brea Canyon, north of Fullerton
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Fray Juan Crespi : missionary explorer on the Pacific Coast. 1769-1774 Bolton, Herbert Eugene, 1870-1953 1927
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Title | Fray Juan Crespi : missionary explorer on the Pacific Coast. 1769-1774 |
Creator |
Bolton, Herbert Eugene, 1870-1953 |
Publisher | Berkeley : University of California Press |
Date Issued | 1927 |
Description | "Errata slip inserted facing p[vi]. "Crespi's diaries are printed here as a primary part of this book. They have never before been assembled in one volume or published as a separate work. They were scattered through the tomes of Palou's New California [no.434] and are here reprinted from my English edition of that treatise (Berkeley, 1926) with the addition of several important hitherto unpublished documents, special Introduction and Editorial Notes":- Pref., p.iv. Crespi served on three expeditions: Portola's 1769-1770, Pedro Fages's 1772, and Perez's, 1774, the first recorded Spanish voyage to the coast of British Columbia. Preface also published separately with title: A Pacific coast pioneer (no.57)." -- Strathern, G. M., & Edwards, M. H. (1970). Navigations, traffiques & discoveries, 1774-1848: A guide to publications relating to the area now British Columbia. Victoria, BC: University of Victoria, p. 70-71. |
Extent | lxiv, 402 pages : maps, illustrations ; 23 cm |
Subject |
Crespí, Juan, 1721-1782 Franciscans--Missions Portolá's Expedition, Calif., 1769-1770 Missions--California Pacific Coast (Calif.) Pacific Coast (B.C.) |
Genre |
Books |
Type |
Text |
FileFormat | application/pdf |
Language | English |
Notes | Contains index. Other copies: http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/367433004 |
Identifier | F5813.1.C92 B7 II-0132 |
Collection |
British Columbia Historical Books Collection |
Source | Original Format: University of British Columbia. Library. Rare Books and Special Collections. F5813.1.C92 B7 |
Date Available | 2018-02-01 |
Provider | Vancouver : University of British Columbia Library |
Rights | Images provided for research and reference use only. For permission to publish, copy, or otherwise distribute these images please contact digital.initiatives@ubc.ca. |
CatalogueRecord | http://resolve.library.ubc.ca/cgi-bin/catsearch?bid=1586327 |
DOI | 10.14288/1.0363412 |
AggregatedSourceRepository | CONTENTdm |
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