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Journal of the journey of His Excellency the Governor-General of Canada from Government House, Ottawa,… 1877

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Array           
Journal of the Journey 
OF 
His Excellency 
THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF CANADA 
FROM 
GOVERNMENT  HOUSE,   OTTAWA, 
TO 
BRITISH  COLUMBIA 
AND BACK. 
LONDON:  
WEBSTER  &  LARKIN,   60,   PICCADILLY. 
1877.  Journal of the Journey
FROM
GOVERNMENT   HOUSE,   OTTAWA,
BRITISH   COLUMBIA
AND BACK,
Monday, July 31, 1876.—Left Government
House, 10.30 a.m.  The party consisted of the
Governor-General and the Countess of Dufferin,
Colonel Littleton, Secretary, and Military Secretary,
Captain Ward and Captain Hamilton, A.D.C.'s, Mr.
Campbell, Private Secretary, Miss Alexander, ladies'
maid, Mr. No well, John and George, servants. We
travel in a Pullman car, with two drawing rooms.
Their Excellencies occupy one, Miss Alexander
another, and the three gentlemen the main body.
The domestic economy of the car is presided over by
a coloured gentleman named Brown.    Mr. Reynolds m^jtmimmmmsmmffi
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
has provided us with a beautiful little kitchen, some
home-made bread, &c, while we ourselves have laid
in a compact little store of potted meats, eggs, cream,
and other delicacies; aJarge deal box is fitted on the
platform outside the end of the car as an ice cellar,
but the uninitiated imagine it has been invented to
hold her Excellency's smartest costume. As, however, we have an enormous luggage-van allotted to
our boxes and portmanteaus, she has not been reduced
to such a necessity.
At the station we found Mr. Mackenzie, the other
Ministers, Reynolds, and some ladies waiting to bid
us good-bye, and a guard of honour of ioo men.
The expedition is accompanied by four reporters—
Mr. Stillson, from the New York World; Mr. St.
John, from the Globe; Mr. Horton, from the Mail?
and Mr. Gingras, for the French papers. The mythic
and sensational being thus insured, a bold statement
of fact is all that will be found in these pages.
Luncheon at Prescott, where we also intercept the
English mail. Letters, announcing the engagement
of Gawen Hamilton, Esq., Lady Dufferin's brother,
to Miss Beaumont, daughter of Sir George Beaumont.
We telegraph our united blessing to the happy man.
Mr. Ward, the terror of impostors, discovers in the
train a person of questionable appearance calling
himself  Lord Lovat, but  who certainly  is not the   Cobourg.
Simon   Fraser   familiar   to   the   Colonel   and   his
Excellency.
At 4.30 p.m. a missive is received from the
World reporter, revealing the existence of a young
lady very dear to him, whom he would like to
take with him on his tour, if the Co.untess would
"matronize" her. She should give no trouble,
would not ask to enter Lady Dufferin's car, and
he himself would put her safely to bed every night
in the cot immediately above his own. A Council
of War is held. Lady D. sternly opposed to
the whole arrangement; the A.D.C.'s suggest that
her two sisters should be invited to accompany her,
and be | matronized " on the same terms. This idea
does not find favour with the elders, and the reporter
is told that he must travel in single blessedness.
At 5 o'clock, tea is got ready under the auspices
of the whole party. Disputes arise as to whether one
or whether two extra spoonfuls of tea should go to
the pot. Never was a kettle better watched or longer
before it boiled. Five splendid cups of tea ultimately
produced. Great things are prophesied of the cooking department.
At 8 o'clock, reach Cobourg, and sup. She is not
on the platform. Disappointment of Mr. Ward. 9 p.m.
Cypher telegram from Mr. Mackenzie. Four of the
party retire  to   a  private apartment to   translate it 4 Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
Can make nothing of it. After two hours' study, her
Excellency is called in, to whom the document renders
up its secrets.
11.45.—Arrive at Toronto.    Meet Mr. Moody.
12 o'clock.—Bed, and spasms of sleep.
\:
1
Tuesday, August i.—We awake to find ourselves leaving Sarnia, and ^eing carried in the train
and in our beds to the American side. We land in
the country of the Stars and Stripes, and begin to
feel hungry. We dress, and we put up the nocturnal
arrangements which disfigure our drawing-room, put
down the tables in the place of the beds, and prepare
a breakfast for which we have all good appetites.
Invisible somewhere, Mr. Nowell is boiling water for
the tea. Audible, at the other end of the car, Mr.
Ward stands, watch in hand, boiling eggs, and calling
to us, anxious hearers, " One minute," " Two minutes,"
"Three minutes," "Three minutes and a-half, done!"
and done to a turn, too. Then we have pate de
foie gras, and potted veal pie, and Devonshire cream,
and jam, and the most delicious home-made bread
and butter, and very good tea, and we highly approve
our meal.
Our first station was Detroit, where a Mr. Brush
came to see his Excellency, and where we walked
about for twenty minutes.    After this we read, and   Chicago.
5
felt very hot, and were covered with dust. Fred
Hamilton's face being for a large portion of the day
a rival to Mr. Brown's complexion. We lunched at
Marshall, and, getting into our car again, suffered
from this plague of dust till we neared Lake Michigan ; then we had a delightful fresh breeze for half an
hour, while we sat by the open window and watched
the Chicagoans bathe.
A telegram or two, a Pullman Car Co. Superintendent, and an hotel steward, met us here; but I forgot
to say that we had a " high tea | on board—as good
as the breakfast. Then we drove to the Palmer
House, and found that Mr. Palmer, who was delighted to see I Mr. and Mrs. Dufferin," had given
them his own magnificent rooms, statues, pictures,
satins, embroideries, carving; all are to be found in
our apartments, but Miss Alexander expressed some
of our own sentiments when she said that "When
one comes in dusty and tired, one does not want to
be bothered with all this."
Mr. Palmer insisted upon sending up some supper,
which no one but Mr. Ward was prepared to eat, and
unluckily he was in his bath when it was served. We
all sat and looked at it, and refused the dishfes until
at last we were ashamed of our want of politeness,
and promising the black waiters that Mr. Ward would
eat everything, we retired from the dining-room. iallPiuihliiaprS
6 Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
His Excellency being '- very tired and sleepy," went
out for "five minutes " with Col. L. and Capt. H.; they
all strayed into a theatre, and were rather longer than
five minutes. The Count de Turenne, who-was in the
hotel, called upon us and remained until his Excellency's return.    Bed and sleep.
\
Wednesday, August 2.—(Voluntary contribution by an unknown friend.)
Even Royal Nibs and Nibbesses, even gallant military gentlemen must live, and we abuse no confidence
when we state that the interesting visitors who last
night honoured the Palmer House with their presence
did condescend to breakfast there this morning; the
already brilliant company was rendered still more
aristocratic by the presence of the Count de Turenne,
a gentleman who entertained the party with moving
anecdotes of personal adventure.
The time for departure came; it was easy to see,
as the Countess left the House, that she had been in
the Hotel of a gallant American, for a lovely bouquet
was in her hand, and a basket of splendid fruit was to
be smelt somewhere around.
With his usual urbanity his Excellency smiled
upon all, and as the carriage bore him to the station
he, we have no doubt, carried with him a most profound  admiration   for Chicago, and for  the  Palace {From the Chicago Times.)
COULDN'T FIND THE DUFFER IN
Late on yesterday afternoon his excellency, the governor
general of Canada, the Earl Dufferin, and his suite, arrived
in Chicago by the Michigan Central Railroad. The party at
once drove to the Palmer house where they removed their stain
of travel and shortly after satisfied the demands of appetite.
At a proper time, after his excellency had finished his
vesperian cigar, a Times reporter crawled up the main corridor of the Palmer house, and prostrated himself before the
ruby-haired divinity who guards the mysteries of the office.
For a time no notice was paid to the object reporter, the
youth with the pryrotechnical cranium being engaged in renovating his finger nails. In a languid manner he took the
reporter's card, and after spelling at the name, breathed a
low and sad-toned whistle which was responded to by a sable
citizen, and the card was dispatched on its journey. The
answer was disheartening : His excellency had retired, and
the groom of the bed-chamber had told the 'squire of the
mosquito bar that H. E. cou.dn't be seen. Eour cards were
wasted in a vain endeavor to find some of the suit up, but
they had all turned in early, probably to save gas. Finally
one of the newspaper squad which is attached to the party of
the GK G-. like a tail to a kite, to keep the whole thing steady,
turned up, and the following facts were brought out:
The objective point which his excellency is aiming is
British Columbia, and he will approach it via San Francisco.
The party will "leave Chicago this morning at 10:30 by the
Chicago, Burlington and Quincy Railroad, travelling in the
special ear in which thejr left Ottawa. The journey will be
broken by a very few stops,the countess of Dufferin being
indisposed. It is probable that a halt wll be made at Ogden
long enough to allow Lord Dufferin to visit Brighan Young
at Salt Lake City. Even he may be cut out ol the programme, as it is understood that the countess rather objects
to her hubby going to see that " nausty" man.
From San Francisco the party will 6 take a trip in a government ship" to Victoria,- the capital of British Columbia.
At this point the cutter will remain, while the Earl will do
a little running around ainong the boys. About a month will
be spent in this manner and then the party will return,
reaching the. east some time in October. If his money holds
out, the earl will go to the centennial.
The party consists of his excellency the governor general
of Canada, the earl of Dufferin, the countess of Dufferin,
Colonel the Hon E. Littleton, Military Secretary of Canada ;
Capts. Ward and Hamilton, aids de camp • William Campbell,
private secretary; E. E. Horton, Toronto Mail; and M. St.
John, Toronto Globe. ■*;*. The Mississippi. 7
in which he had reposed his travel-stained face.
Mr. Forrest and his lovely daughters were at the
depot to say " Adieu | to the distinguished party,
and many were the smiles and nods interchanged by
platform and car before the carriage left her moorings. We passed through miles of the flattest country
imaginable, but very fertile. The chief product
being Indian corn, grown in such quantities that we
wondered where the population could be that would
consume so large a quantity; on inquiry we found
that it was chiefly used as food for pigs and for fuel.
We passed a few wooded valleys, which, after the
monotony of the flat country, were a great relief to the
eye, and by comparison appeared lovely. Towards
evening the Pullman car conductor informed us that
we were nearing the Mississippi River, and we consequently went to the platform at the end of the car
to obtain the best view of this mighty stream whose
banks, at the point where we crossed on a light
looking iron bridge, are composed of yellow clay,
giving the stream itself the colour and appearance of
pea soup. After a cup of tea and a rubber of whist
Mr. Brown made the beds, and we all endeavoured
to sleep.
AUGUST   3%—Breakfasted   this   morning   in  the
Hotel  car,  which   could   hardly   be   considered   a ■-im,■ ,*mi miiiin> 1\\¥^JiS&^ti^hSaggXf.\
8
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
success,  the heat  excessive,  no  air or ventilation.
Our own breakfast arrangements very superior.
Mr. Brown in a decidedly better humour this
morning, having made up for last night by a good
breakfast, and having bullied the white waiters to
his heart's content
About 9.30 we sighted the Missouri, and after a
little delay at Council'Bluffs, consequent on transferring the other passengers and baggage to the
vehicles of the Union Pacific Railway, we crossed
the river on a fine iron bridge to Omaha. The
Missouri is of a pea soupy colour, and by no means
picturesque. After removing some of our travel stains
we spent the remainder of the forenoon in repose.
After luncheon, their Excellencies went for a drive,
and his Excellency took a sketch from a bluff behind
the town. The remainder basked in the shade, and
rested generally.
Omaha is well situated on a bluff above the
river, and consequent on being the junction of several lines of railway, and with fine country behind it,
is increasing rapidly in prosperity and size. The
most striking building is the Post Office, which is
very good.
A loyal Canadian, yclept Mr. S. Howell, filled
with patriotism at his Ex/s arrival, resolved himself
into a deputation, wrote an address, and presented (From Omaha Daily Herald
BOYALT-Y.
Visit of a Distinguished English Nobleman to Omaha-
Lord Dufferin Governor General of Canada and his Suite*
The Herald was indebted to D. W. Hitchcock, of the great " Burlington Route," for a special telegram from Chicago, informing us that
Lord Dufferin, Governor General of Canada and his suite, would arrive in
Omaha yesterday morniug, en route to San Francisco. The telegram
published yesterday morning awakened a great deal of interest among
the citizens, and the most stoical Democratic indifference to royalty
could not restrain a little curiosity, when the distinguished gentleman
arrived, to learn just what he resembled.
A HERALD representative visited the Grand Central, where the royal
party had taken rooms, and endeavored to learn all that could be of
interest concerning the strangers. The party consists of His Excellency
the Earl of Dufferin, and Her ExceUency the Countess of Dufferin, the
Governor General's Secretary, Lieut.-Col, the Honorable E. G. H. Littleton and wife, Capt. P. Ward, Capt. F. Hamilton, A. D. C, and Mr.
William Campbell, who is the Earl's private secretary. Two newspaper
correspondents also accompany the party, Mr. O. Horton, of the Toronto
Mail, and Mr. M. St. John, of the Globe, of the same city. The party left
Canada at Sarnia, and entered the United States by crossing the river fey
Detroit. They stopped a short time at Chicago, and from there took a
Pullman car over the 0. B <fc Q., and came direct to Omaha, stopping here
only for a short rest before embarking on a long journey over the Union
and Central Pacific Boads to the Golden State.
The Earl of Dufierin is an English gentleman, whose family dates back
to the time of the Williams', and are at present among the strongest of
the Queen's supporters. He is a very dignified, elegantly appearing
gentleman, very intelligent and well cultured. The Countess, who
accompanies him, and seems to regard him with the greatest affectioD,
is much younger than her lord, and is a handsome little thing of a type
of womanhood very different from the American idea of feminine royalty.
While riding through the streets yesterday afternoon she was the centre
of all attraction, her costume being of plain brown silk corded, and something in the manner of the " pull back" style.
The Earl has occupied the position of the Governor General of the
Canadian Provinces for upwards of four years. His salary is very large
according to our ideas of civil service compensation, his individual salary
being $250,000 a year, while a special compensation is allowed for secretaries and servants, several of whom make more than the President of
the United States, and yet we want to reduce his salary to one half the
present amount.
The object of the visit of this distinguished party combines both pleasure and business. It is his first visit to this part of the United States,
and he chose to pass over our soil upon the greatest railroad in the world
and meet an English frigate at San Francisco, which will take him to
British Columbia, a province in his jurisdiction. He is there to spend a
month making the acquaiutance of the people,and encouraging th^ir industries and hurrying up the construction of the Canadian Pacific railroad.
He is also desirous of getting an insight into the actual condition of the
Sioux Indian warfare and learn whether his borders are really in danger
of the hostile invasion. He leaves for the west on the Union Pacific
express to-day and will not stop until he raaches San Francisco.  Omaha.
9
himself to Colonel Littleton, and was told to attend
with his deputation in the evening, which he did,
and presenting his address, received a gracious reply.
There are some forty odd Canadians in Omaha, so
he said.
In the evening, Mr. Chase, the Mayor, an ex-
officer of the U.S. Army, called on his Excellency
and gave an interesting account of his connection
with Omaha. He arrived by river from the South
before the railway was built, and liking the situation
of the place, thinking it promised well for the future,
settled himself, and has had every reason to be glad
of his choice.
Weather very hot during day, but deliciously
cool in the evening. They generally get their
hottest weather here in the latter part of the
summer.
Thursday, August 4.—This day is remarkable from the fact that " Sitting Bull" joined the
party. He was introduced by Capt. Ward, and is
of prepossessing appearance, in spite of the fact
that he has only one eye> and that his nose is of
a brilliant hue.
We heard in the morning that some of the party
had passed very bad nights owing to the noise
occasioned by the fire engine, &c, going to  a fire •3WE
10
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
\
N
that had been in the town. Miss Alexander appears
to have been the principal sufferer. Mr. Brown says
he was not disturbed. We left Omaha at twelve
(noon) in a very long train. We had on board
100,000 fish (shad), which we stopped to water
occasionally. We had lunch at Fremont, and
supped at Grand Island—both very good.
Mr. Campbell was seen gambling in the train,
and Seems to have made acquaintance with some
questionable characters whose history will appear
in to-morrow's journal.
This day's journey was made through the Platte
valley, which is very fertile.
Mr. Levitt appeared again on the scene.
Saturday, 5.—We all had good nights, and some
of us did not even awake when the grasshoppers
stopped the train, and when the engine puffed and
panted for half an hour in a vain endeavour to start
over their oily corpses (a fact vouched for by those
who did awake).
Our first out-look in the morning, was upon a
desolate plain of dull-coloured grass, broken up by
rocky mounds; but later in the day, the scenery
became more picturesque, the grass greener, the rocks
redder and more curious in shape, and a few trees
growing round them helped to give them the appear-   Cheyenne.
II
ance of ruined castles; the air was quite delicious,
and some people found it most exhilarating.
We had a good breakfast, and tried a potted
partridge in addition to the other delicacies we have
with us.
Her Excellency was a victim this morning to her
husband's jokes, and to the horse-play of a Pullman
bed. His Ex. brought in a beautiful green, clear,
stone, and giving it to Lady D., told her she was on
the Alkali Plains, and that he had brought her a
specimen of the alkali. She seized it with delight,
but after washing off the dust, and tasting it, her
natural intelligence came to the front, and she pronounced it I Glass ! I She had just announced this
fact to the company, when a blow on her head startled
her, and she found the upper berth had fallen upon
her.    Grand coup de theatre ! !
We lunched at Cheyenne, and his Ex. was called
upon by the Governor of the Territory, Mr. Thayer.
At Sherman, we reached the highest point to
which the train ascends, 8,260 feet. Soon after
leaving this station, .we cross a horrible, sideless,
skeleton bridge, over a ravine.
We feel very much as if we were at sea. The
wind blows and whistles round us, carries off two
hats, and actually assails our precious kettle as it
stands boiling our water, and lands its lid upon the 12
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
\
track of the U. P. Railroad. Happily a station is
near, and the lid is rescued.
To-day we have seen four antelope, prairie dogs,
and gophers. Whist in the evening, a great deal of
guide book read, work, novels, drawing, smoking,
jumping out at small stations, attempts at getting a
run on the prairie, etc., etc., etc.
Sunday, August 6.—Got up at no particular
hour, our progress west having demoralized time.
An excellent breakfast—fried sole, fresh out of the
pot, and broiled beef. The first things seen were
the curious buttes at Green River Station. Green
River itself being the first river we had crossed
flowing westwards. A menagerie of mountain lions,
pumas, &c., as well as moss agates. These wonders
we only enjoyed by report, being still in bed when
we passed them. Mr. Campbell, startled by the
energetic language of a fellow-traveller, who, in
pure poffteness, warned him that the mountain lion,
if he got a chance, would soon scratch his d d
face. Mr Campbell was very much minded to
punch the gentleman's head for thus qualifying his
physiognomy, which would have been a very uncivil recognition of his intended courtesy.
All the morning passing through a desert plateau
of satid and sage.    Even "Sitting Bull" began to   The Rocky Mountains.
13
look depressed. At last the Umtah peaks peeped
up blue and white above the prairie sky line.
Lunched at Evanston, and were waited upon for
the first time by Chinamen, very neat and mild.
General McDowell introduced himself. He is on
his way to take up military command of the Pacific
Slope. Passed some bright-dressed Indian squaws
squatting about.
Begun the real descent of the Rocky Mountains
through Echo Canon. For the most part of the way
her Ex. and I sat on the platform at the end of
the train whence we had a very good view of the
queer shaped rows of red-coloured bluffs which rise
on the right hand, the gorge on the left sloping
upward in softer lines. Passed the Devil's Slide,
and some odd water-worn pinnacles, which shot
straight up out of a grassy slope.
Invited General McDowell to tea,,and introduced
him afterwards to the pleasures of the platform. We
observed all the gentlemen standing about with a
single trouser pocket well-behind the right hip. All
trousers are thus constructed on the Pacific with a
view to holding a pistol. The gentlemen we saw,
however, only carried pocket-books in theirs.
Reached a picturesque valley, surrounded by
serrated ranges of Alp-like hills.
As we advanced into Mormondom, houses were israormu^ '■■llC
14
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
pointed out as being the homes of five and six-fold
domestic bliss. Between six and seven reached Ogden,
a Mormon town, where we had arranged to sleep.
The Colonel, Mr. Campbell, and his Excellency repaired to the Weber River and bathed before dinner.
A very good dinner. Sat out on the platform afterwards speculating on the merits of Mormonism.
At ten  to  bed, frightfully hot   rooms, partially
infested by mosquitoes.
MONDAY, AUGUST 7.—His Excellency and the
Colonel bathed. The former bought Mormon literature, and sat in the sun till the afternoon, when he
and Lady D. drove up the Ogden Canon, and heard
some Polygamatical gossip from the driver. The
Colonel did accounts. The boys sunned themselves.
Nowell swindled a man out of a drive to town by representing himself as a voter, and when there, bought
a tea-pot in some new and extraordinary manner,
which resulted in his paying a dollar, but the seller
of the tea-pot only receiving in its lieu some | other
fellow's " I.O.U.
At 6.15., we all left Ogden, in a new private
car; travelled along the borders of that salt and
wifey lake, were invaded by mosquitoes, and went
supperless to bed.
(Communicated by a Good Samaritan.)   Ogden.
15
Tuesday, August 8.—We awoke on a scene of
the utmost desolation. Alkali plains and treeless
buttes our sole landscape ; on both, nothing but sage
brush growing. Their Excellencies tried the breakfast at Elko, but the flies and the food drove them
back to the car, supplies from which, with the aid
of Mr. Reynolds' kitchen, a good breakfast can always
be procured.
The reporters gave an account of their visit to
Salt Lake City. They are unanimous in denouncing Brigham as an "old fraud," and are much disgusted with all they saw (admirable young men).
Stillson, of the N. Y. World, had rather an
amusing interview with Brigham. When the Prophet heard his name, he said, | Let me see—Stillson
—ah, hum—I think I once married a lady of that
name, but really it was so long ago, I quite forget
all about her family/' Her memory had evidently
been lost in the sweet succession of loving wives, and
it is doubtful whether Brigham would have recognised
her if he met her in the street.
Heard by telegraph of the arrival of H.M.S.
Amethyst at Frisco, placed at his Excellency's disposal. One day may thus be summed up. Employment : reading, working, smoking, eating (bad food).
Personal experiences: heat, alkali, dust, and general
discomfort.    Cool evening. «.
if
N
11
1
16
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
Wednesday, August 9.—(Copied by the Good
Samaritan.)
Having washed off the dust and made ourselves
as smart as possible, we prepared to 1 land." At a
small station near | Frisco," Captain Chatfield, the
Consul, and Mr. Walkem came 1 all aboord." We
left the cars at Oaklands, and got into a large ferry
steamer, which took us over to San Francisco. We
drove to the | Palace Hotel," an enormous place. It
is built round a court, and its four walls are bending
under a mass of stars and stripes. We looked at our
rooms, and then took a walk through the streets, but
oh ! it was so cold—such a wind.
Captain Chatfield dined with us, and we went to
the play and saw the Geneva Cross. (Volunteered by
the Good Samaritan, who begs to say that, if people
will leave their journal unwritten for a fortnight, they
must expect to have it very stupidly done at the end
of that time.)
Thursday, August 10.—Breakfasted in the
enormous eating-room; were very glad of a fire in
our sitting-room and received several visits there in
the morning. Fred Hamilton went to the Amethyst)
and at one, the rest of the party drove to the Cliff
House.    They looked in at Woodhouse Gardens and   San Francisco.
17
examined the Aquarium, and then proceeded through
the park to the great sight of San Francisco.
The day was lovely, and they were delighted with
all they saw—the sea lions basking in the sun and
climbing over the rocks ? the pelicans combing their
feathers and diving in the sea; the oysters, and the
I Porter House steak | for lunch.
General McDowell dined with us, and we went to
see an absurd piece called Brass. It required that
to put it on the stage, but it amuses through its
intense folly.
(Volunteered by the Good Samaritan—the reader
is referred to note at the foot of August 9.)
Friday, August i i.—The luggage went on board
the Amethyst early, and a smaller edition only was
retained till three, at which hour uniform was to be
put on, and every bag, box, and parcel was to be
sent off.
The Colonel suffered a moment's agony, when he
discovered that his uniform-trousers were at Ottawa,
but like a true soldier he was ready for an emergency,
and somehow or other (with the aid of a tailor, perhaps), when the moment for full dress arrived, he was
at his post, and in a pair of the necessary red-striped
garments. 18
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back,
Their Excellencies visited Mr. Bradford's pictures,
and received Mrs. Breeze—an old Kiilyleagh friend—
they also saw Dr. Breeze and Mr. Keown, and had a
visit from a certain old man, | Hans Ferguson," who
had been called after | Hans Lord Dufferin/' and
who had gone to sea with Lady D.'s grandfather.
He has been mining for 45 years, and talks of
returning home now.
Their Excellencies took a walk in the town, and
his Excellency remained out till it was time to leave
the Hotel. While he was out the Staff put on their
uniforms, and were all gloved, booted, and spurred—
the servants gone, and we just ready to start, when I
peeped into his Excellency's room, and discovered an
enormous bath sponge unpacked !
Fred and I were in despair over it; we ungloved,
and wrung it, and squeezed it, and reduced it to the
smallest possible compass, and then we did not know
what to do with it. Could her Excellency, in State,
could the A.D.C. in uniform, carry a vulgar paper
parcel ? Could we march on board Her Majesty's
ship Amethyst with the consciousness of a damp
unwieldy sponge about us ? No! drops of water
oozed through the paper, and stood upon our
anxious brows at the very idea. Happy thought!
push the sponge up the arm of his Excellency's fur
coat and carry it so!—"True, it might drop out just
_  lwan«3»3!55*jaW*l»E San Francisco.
19
as the salute is being fired—it does look rather gouty
for the arm of an empty coat—but, still, what better
place can we find for it."
This brilliant idea was carried out. His Excellency came in, and was informed that on no
account must he attempt to put on his fur coat.
But the despotic ruler of the Canadian Dominion
declared that not for all the sponges of the sea
would he consent to be cold with a fur coat at
hand, and that after all we must submit to a vulgar
newspaper parcel.
We did up the swelling, perspiring, unruly sponge
as neatly as possible, and had just stuck the last pin
into the elegant folds of the paper, when a shriek
proceeded from the dressing-room, and this time the
autocrat himself rushed in with another sponge, nailbrush, tooth-brush, powder-box, the whole paraphernalia of forgotten washing properties. The parcel
swelled and looked quite pompous in its vulgarity,
but it was lent the shelter of the fur coat, at any rate
till we got to the boat; there it was received (still
folded in the fur embrace) with respect, by a gentleman in uniform, was laid with care by his Excellency's
side, and was extricated from the coat during the
voyage to the ship by one of his A.D.C.'s, who, unseen
by all (but the initiated and anxious) managed to
leave it  lying  innocently  upon the  seat when  his 20
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
Excellency stepped on board the Amethyst, whence it
was conveyed to the proper quarter by one of Her
Majesty's seamen.
Captain Chatfield has had a very nice cabin fitted
up for their Excellencies, with an angle beyond for
the maid. We are at anchor, and the pictures on
the walls, the bright chintz, etc., all look very nice.
We dined, and played whist, and expect to be
very jolly!
Saturday, August 12.—"A change comes o'er
the spirit of our dream ! | It appears to us that the
Pacific is a nasty ocean. We get on deck. We lie
about—we doze—we undoubtedly look wretched—
we dottt go down to dinner.
Sunday, August 13.—The Pacific is even a
nastier ocean than we imagined ; the most unflattering and opprobrious terms may be applied to it.
Some people never get up at all. Some crawl on
deck. Only one of the party pretends to be well.
Pitching and tossing—heads or tails ?
Midnight.—Their Excellencies awoke by the
groans of Alexander, who makes her way to the
Captain's cabin, declaring she can no longer stand
the screw which   thumps just  underneath her  bed.   HBSHH
Esquimault.
The Captain is not awoke by the invasion, and she
lies down on the floor there till after he leaves his
room in the morning.
Monday, August 14.—Most people better. Get
on deck. Lady D. lies in a cot, in a tent made of
sails and flags, but still there are few at dinner.
Tuesday, August 15.—At last, things look better.
We begin to move about, and to look about, and see
the great rocks which stand up from the sea along
the coast. About 3, we arrive at Cape Flattery, and
directly after passing it, we get into smooth water
and into the sunshine. Before us, we see a splendid
snow-capped range of mountains.
We reach Esquimault at nine. The screw ceases,
and we have a delightful, quiet night.
Wednesday, August 16.—The mail steamer, by
which the I Hon. Mr. Nowell, and the Hon. Mr.
Day, A.D.C/s to his Ex. the Governor-General,"* are
coming, is two days late, and people were beginning
to be anxious about her, when she arrived just in time
for the reporters to see our reception at Victoria.
* Note by Editor.—It was thus two of the servants were
described in the list of passengers. 22
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
A bustling morning, people coming on board,
messages flying about, and at last an arrangement
for us to land at I o'clock.
i o'clock. The Staff go ashore in one boat, the
yards manned, and their Excellencies and the Commodore start in another, and remain a little way from
the ship, while the salute is fired.
Land on the Wharf, exchange civilities with Sir
James Douglas.
For all particulars of the procession vide newspapers.
Suffice it to say that Victoria accorded us a
"magnificent welcome;" that there were arches, flags,
evergreens, carriages, riders, ribbons, bands, soldiers,
brilliant green archers, flowers, a beautiful collection
of gaily ornamented canoes, an address, a little
difference of opinion about a motto under which
his Excellency refused to drive, a few groans for
Mackenzie, a number of young girls at the door of
Government House, a few adieux, a little lunch, and
then we were left to examine our new house and
household. We made acquaintance with Ah* Sam,
our Chinese cook, and then sat in the garden, looked
at Mount Baker and the other mountains, eat splendid
cherries, dined alone, and went to bed well tired.
■I   if
Thursday, August 17.—His Excellency argu  t
The Commod
again;   had  an  hour's  sermon,  a  very great  deal
of singing and an anthem.
The Freds lunched with Mrs. Roscoe.
(All this is contributed by the Good Samaritan.) ing with different people from 10 to 5. Then we
took a drive, went under the obnoxious arch, and
round Beacon Hill. Captain Chatfield came to stay
with us, and Sir Matthew Begbie dined,
a little restless in the evening, and his disquiet was
explained when voices appealing to " Maggie " were
heard, and while I made my way to an open window
in the right direction, he slipped out, and joining his
deep voice to those already in the gardens added his
bass entreaty to "Maggie" to "do" or to "dont,"
whatever it was.
Of course, we captured the fair songstresses and
brought all the serenaders in to tea. Sir Matthew is
a gigantic Chief Justice, and this had been a little
arrangement of his.
Friday, August 18.—We all feel very cold here,
and have fires, and the Victorians do stare, for they
think their climate perfect.
Her Excellency was rather ill all day, and every
one else very busy.
A dinner party in the evening. Lt.-Governor and
Mrs. Richards.    Mr. and Mrs. Bunster, 24
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
Macdonalds, Roscoes, Elliots, were the other
guests.
Saturday, August 19.—His Excellency talking
from 10 till 7. Having given up all hope of getting
him out, at five o'clock her Excellency, the Commodore, and the Freds went a drive up the Gorge.
At 8 there was a Drawing-room in the Parliament
Buildings—vide newspapers. Captain Ward, who is
generally the Pink of Propriety, is reported to have
almost misbehaved, when he was required, without
notice, and in a loud voice to proclaim the names of
the Chinamen who presented themselves—" Chock
Fan," "Chu Lai," " Kum Shooing," "Low Sye,"
"Chow Quong." There was a difficulty about carriages, and some people arrived so late that their
Excellencies were obliged to return to the reception-
room a second time to receive the late comers.
Some did not get there at all.
Sunday, August 20.—Rain, church, much
singing, a very quickly read sermon, lunch, a walk.
The Commodore and the Captain went to church
again; had an hour's sermon, a very great deal
of singing and an anthem.
The Freds lunched with Mrs. Roscoe.
(All this is contributed by the Good Samaritan.)   Victoria.
25
Monday, August 21.—Interviewers till one—
then a short walk, and at 2 his Excellency, Col.
Littleton, and Captain Ward shut themselves up
with a frantic deputation. They had no lunch, and
expected to be kept in debate about half an hour,
instead of which it was six o'clock before the fifteen
malcontents left. On dit, that his Excellency spoke
for about two hours, but as reporters were not admitted, there is no authentic information to be given
upon the subject.
While this war of words was going on in the
billiard-room, most peaceful arguments respecting
the weather and the dust were held in the drawing-
room by her Excellency, who was " at home." Mr.
Hamilton was writing invitations, so, but for the
kindly help of the Commodore, Lady Dufferin would
have been quite alone among the Philistines. His
Excellency saw the last man about seven, and it was.
then time to dress for dinner.
The guests were Trutches, Creases, Mr. Charles,
Mrs. O'Reilly, Mrs. H. Grey, Messrs. Vernon and
Smithe, and the Mayor.
;t|
1 •'
Tuesday, August 22.—Deputations and interviews till four, at which time his Excellency was
free, and found, on leaving his study, that Lady
Dufferin  had  already  received   half Victoria,   and 26
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back*
was bringing the party in from the garden to the
ball-room.
The croquet ground and the band there had few
attractions for any one, but the dancing in the ballroom and the tea in the billiard-room were very
successful.
Six Chinamen came, and seemed to enjoy themselves very much.
At 6.30 a dinner party; the Rhodes, Raymurs,
Tolmies, Captain Powell, and Captain Layton dined.
We afterwards went to a concert in the theatre, and
the Freds went to a dance after that.
Wednesday, August 23.—At 10 a.m., "Ah
Sam" brought his wife to be presented to Lady
Dufferin. She arrived in a carriage in charge of an
elderly Chinese lady, who, dressed in black satin, and
wearing earrings and bracelets, looked a much more
suitable wife for the gentleman than the poor little
infant who really holds that honourable position.
She had to be supported into the room, for she can
only just toddle, and at first she seemed incapable of
even putting out her hand without help; however,
she was placed in a seat, and for some moments
appeared to be on the verge of tears, and half covered
her face with a red silk handkerchief.
She wore her hair dressed in the height of the   SLJU'-U-
**-**&■■
Victoria.
27
Chinese fashion, and on the back of it a cap made
of many coloured cut papers ; earrings, rings, and
bracelets adorned her; she had a blue tunic and a
black satin petticoat, and tiny embroidered shoes.
We left her to recover herself while " Ah Sam "
presented us with some presents he had brought—
Chinese fireworks, some shell frames, and some gilt.
gim-cracks; then he left, and the little lady got on
much better. She was quite pretty, with a bright
complexion and a pretty smile, and she quite understood his Excellency's jokes respecting the different
merits of her hairdressing and that of her Excellency's;
told us she was sixteen, had been married a week,
and had only been in Victoria three. When she left
she kissed my hand, and then made a formal curtsey
at the door, and was helped out of the room. His
Excellency made her a little present, telling her to
buy a souvenir with it.
At 12 o'clock, we started off for the " Gorge,"
where we saw one of the prettiest regattas possible.
The place is extremely well suited for an exhibition
of the kind, and the people, dotted about upon the
rocks, the flags stretching across the water, and the
music playing, and the sun shining, made it very
gay; the great sight, however, was the Indian display.
There were eighteen large canoes covered from stejn
to stern with flags, and filled with people, who, either SBgftSl
28
Ottawa to British Columbia, and Back.
upon their faces, or in their raiment, exhibited some
brilliant colour. As his Excellency rowed past them
in the Commodore's boat, they jumped, and stamped,
and howled in the most extraordinary fashion.
They rowed in several races ; the most interesting,
perhaps, being the Squaw-race—four boats full of
women paddling with all their might. All these
Indians have to be very handsomely paid for their
exertions!
After a dinner party, which had to be cut rather
short, we drove off to Esquimault, and prepared to
embark in the Amethyst. While we were in the boat,
the three men-of-war burst into an illumination.
There were blue lights at the end of every yard-arm ;
lights in every port, and some beautiful rockets sent
off.
Mr. Campbell, who has been in bed with rheumatism for the last few days, has been brought on board,
and is better.
(The Good Samaritan will, for the future, only
contribute his or her share.)
Thursday, August 24.—Steaming through
lovely mountain scenery—Mount Baker everywhere
showing himself—passing through narrow channels,
and admiring on every side the beautiful views till
four o'clock, when we anchor at Nanaimo.   Nanaimo.
We all went out fishing, and caught nothing.
Out on the sea we met a boat; sailed by a | Bangor
and Killyleagh-man." He told us he ran away from
home as a boy. He introduced us to his daughter,
and apologized for her being a "half-breed." His
Excellency asked if the lady behind him was his
wife, and he replied " Well, not exactly." We
thought it better to make no more domestic inquiries.
Friday, August 25.—His Excellency made his
official landing at 10 a.m., and was well and loyally
received under a canopy of evergreens, gaily decorated
with flags and standing on a dais. His Excellency
received the address, and having replied, the National
Anthem was sung by school children. We then proceeded in carriages to the house of M*. Bate, the
Mayor, in this order — their Excellencies in the
Mayor's carriage, Mr. Bate driving, Col. Littleton
acting footman on the box. Captain Ward and
Hamilton, with the Corporation, in an open break,
drawn by four horses, following after which the
remainder of the population as best they could,
some in carriages, some on horseback, and the
majority on foot. A heavy shower of rain did not
add to our comfort. After waiting a few minutes
at  the   Mayor's  residence, we stepped  into  a  coal 30
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
truck, altered for the occasion by the addition of
seats and green baize, into a railway carriage, and
were conveyed about two miles and a half to a
coal mine, the shaft of which runs into the side of
a hill on an inclined plain, down which we walked
till we came to the first signs of coal, about 50 yards
down. His Excellency and Capt. Hamilton were
then taken a long scramble through forest and over
rocks to see some curious carving on stone done
years ago by the Indians. We returned by rail to
Nanaimo, took our places in the carriages, drove to
the wharf, and re-embarked on board the Amethyst
amid cheers and a salute from four old Hudson's Bay
Fort guns, which had been brought out for the
occasion, and did not, fortunately, burst. Weighed
anchor as soon as we were on board, viz., 1 p.m.,
and proceeded to Tribune Bay in Hornby's Island,
where we remained for the night. At 4.30 p.m. we
landed, and went by twos and threes in various
directions in search of grouse. Bag, nil. No. of
grouse seen, 7.
SATURDAY, AUGUST 26.—Our old and disagreeable friend the screw began at an early hour, 3 a.m.,
to disturb our dreams, and assert his right to prevent
further sleep and quiet. A bright early morning ; so
some of the   party  said,  though   't is   rather   un-  £wd^c^t^«^^ fh^ccff 5W
Bute Inlet.
certain if they were up to see for themselves, the
general opinion being that they got the information
second-hand from the officer of the watch. The sun
soon disappeared, and by after breakfast it had set in
a wet day; we were then entering Bute Inlet, the
magnificent scenery of which was almost totally spoilt
by the heavy clouds and mist; still, every now and
then we got glimpses of snow peaks rising seven and
eight thousand feet almost perpendicularly from the
sea. By noon we had reached the head of the inlet,
and retraced our steps. We caught up the Sir James
Douglas just as we turned back, and soon left her
behind. The rain was most unfortunate, preventing
as it did, our fairly seeing what, judging by the little
we saw, must be truly grand and wonderful scenery,
grander than almost anything any of us had seen
before. The inlet is about a mile wide throughout,
and the mountains rise in endless variety almost
perpendicularly on each side, with snowy peaks and
glaciers close behind and above them, here and there
a cascade or waterfall adding to the picturesqueriess of
the scene. After reaching the entrance again we
continued our journey northward through the Active
Pass, a very narrow channel, where the tide rushes
through as much as nine miles an hour, sometimes
we found it going about four. We passed an old
village of Vancouver's in a snug little sheltered bay. 32
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
An Indian village marks the spot On through
narrow channels and open spaces, dotted with numerous picturesque islands, to a snug little harbour with
a very narrow entrance, so narrow that when at
anchor one looked round and wondered where we
bad come in. We saw one or two fine bald-headed
eagles ; one flapped lazily close across our bows,
treating us with great indifference. The Colonel and
Ward had exhausted all their ammunition at prominent walls and sea fowl, otherwise his pace might
have been quickened by these unerring marksmen.
An Indian had built himself a hut at the bottom of
the bay, and sat perched like a bird on a rock looking
at us, clad in a bright red blanket, a most picturesque
object. The aforesaid blanket constituted, we found
on landing to make his acquaintance, almost his entire
kit, a straw hat of the shape peculiar to these people,
and a "dickey" or very short shirt being the only additions he thought necessary to constitute full dress.
Fired by seeing fish leaping in every direction,
two parties set out, armed with rods, spoons, flies,
minnows, gaffs, and landing nets; but though the
fish—perch and trout—jumped all round us, they
despised our civilised gear, preferring Mr. Indian's
net, which he had stretched across the mouth of a
small river, damming it up where the net would not
reach.    His Excellency and Fred  Ward  called  on   Cameleon Harbour.
Mrs. Indian, and found her in a plank hut, with daylight showing between each unfastened plank, seated
with three papooses before a fire burning in the centre
of the hut with no chimney, her full-dress somewhat
scantier and dirtier than her husband's. Round the
hut being strings of dried shell-fish, and the whole
wretchedly miserable establishment had a most vile,
fishy odour. The Indian, after conducting us to his
habitation, returned to his perch on the rock, and
when darkness set in, was still seen the same
picturesque red object, though the rain had been
pouring down steadily ever since our arrival. It is
to be hoped some of it, for the sake of cleanliness,
had soaked through his sole garment. The Sir
James Douglas came in about seven, and left about
eight for Safety Cove, our nd'kt halting-place.
Sunday, August 27.—We left Cameleon Harbour at a very early hour; how early I am not
prepared to state, but I am prepared to state that
neither Colonel Littleton's nor Captain Ward's rest
was broken in the way they tried to lead us to believe
it was.
Divine Service was held abaft the funnel at 10
a.m., and was attended by the whole party.
The morning was cold and rainy, but it cleared
up towards evening. 34
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
Great panic was caused at luncheon by the
announcement that we should have three hours'
open sea in the afternoon; most of the party
immediately redoubled their efforts, and called for
second helps for reasons obvious to those who ever
suffer from mal de mer.
In the afternoon we passed a nameless village,
where there was a good large white house, and
several Indian huts. We also saw very large flocks
of geese. We arrived at Safety Cove about eight,
after which we dined, and Captain Cooper came on
board, and smoked a cigar in the cabin with us.
I am glad to say that no one but Miss Alexander
felt the effects of the sea.
Stringent orders as to the keeping of this diary
were issued by her Excellency, and, so far, have been
obeyed to the letter.
Monday, August 28.—Readers of this journal
are requested to have a very good map or chart
before them as they read it. Accurate information
and pleasure will then be imbibed simultaneously.
This day's journey led from Cameleon Harbour to
Carter Bay.
In the morning, sailors and officers donned their
swords and muskets, the doctors prepared for broken
arms and legs, and soon a battle raged between our  11 Carter Bay.
ship and the rocks which lay along the shore. We
fired shot, and we fired shell, and we spattered the
sea with case-shot, and his Excellency had a go at
one enemy, and the gallant Colonel went at another,
but was considered a little too gentle in the manipulation of his instrument. Then we had a navigation
—excitement in passing through a very narrow
channel, less than 200 ft. wide, and when we anchored all our sporting spirits rose to boiling point.
Seeing impossible hills before him, Capt. Ward said
"his name was Macgregor," that his foot should
be on their highest point, and that bear and deer
shot by his gun should fill the 'ship's larder by night.
Certainly, if dress could kill bears, bears would have
died at the sight of his business-like costume.
Capt. Ward went out accompanied by a half-
breed and a fellow-sportsman, and we imagined him
soon in the depths of the Bush. He was shortly
seen, however, creeping round the edge of the water,
having shot a goose, and having given up the
mountains, the deer, and the bear for the sake of
this uneatable bird.
The Commodore's boat caught no fish, but lie
and his Excellency distinguished themselves by
walking to the top of a waterfall, getting very wet,
having very hard work, and seeing the tracks of
bears and deer. 36
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
The large boat load, after heroic struggles (most
of the crew being up to their middles in water),
pulled their boat into a shallow place, and landed
six trout. So you see, dear reader, the Amethyst
expends a good deal of energy upon getting six
fish and a goose.
i
Tuesday, August 29.—Another early start; the
vibration of the screw as usual awaking most of the
party. The morning was very foggy, preventing the
enjoyment of what must have been fine scenery ;
during the day we passed a large canoe full of
Indians, who stared St us open-mouthed. In the
afternoon it came on to rain heavily, which, together
with thick weather, made navigation so hazardous
that had we not over-hauled the Sir James Douglas
and made her | pilot" us, we should have probably
lost a day. We boarded a Yankee steamer, the
California, and by her sent letters, the first we have
had an opportunity of forwarding since we left
Nanaimo. At 6 p.m. we dropped anchor in a bay
off Tugwell Island, near Metlah Catlah. The weather
being wet the delights of travel were somewhat
damped, the scenery occasionally obscured, and some
tempers shortened. To the cheerful mind, however,
there was much to amuse and please.
rasa  aMML^Xsr^.-SCFtSSSeSjH*'3IS^(ltf9XlSf?
[Specimen of Tsimpsean Language.]
NHALGYASHKH   SHIMAUGITKH
LACHAHGH.
1. Ahwil thrahne shahme hoigyahkddh keaukdt.
addah thrahne nkloamshkishkh keht hoigyahkddh
medzah kah layum keauktggh. lyum shakowde
keauktggh, addah shapooshkh nhmedzahkah-
laytkh.
2. Addah al khp klahwillahwahl sbkh nhalgy-
a»shkh Shimaugitkh Lachahgh. Neene qui algyah
koo ahmdah malshkt in pleahoushmt.
I. St. Peter, I., 24, 25.
3. Tsalshkh Shimaugitkh Lachahgh laehoh
amahmdt, addah klahwillah lachshanmookshit-
kshkh nhpohkitkh.
4. Tsalshkh Shimaugitkh Lachahgh yahgwt
libbltwahlksb tup neat qut in tsabbah hahtachaf,
turn achtsahkotstitkh nthahhpach ash iup neatkh
lach hahletsoamme.
Psalm XXXIV, 15, 1. Metlah Catlah.
37
Wednesday, August 30.—This day has been,
certainly, by a very long way, the most interesting
and exciting we have had yet, so much that was new
and curious to be seen and heard. The writer feels
quite unequal to the task of depicting or even remembering all we saw and heard; his ideas are
somewhat like the language to be found on the
opposite page.    However, here goes.
At ten o'clock we landed at Metlah Catlah village,
which presents a most imposing appearance from the
sea, there being many good wooden houses and,
most important and striking of all, a large church
capable of seating 900 people, built entirely by the
Indians under the directions and from the designs
of Mr. Duncan, the energetic missionary and his
assistant, Mr. Collinson. We were received with a
salute, and God Save the Queen sung to an accompaniment of fifes. There were only some 100 natives
at home, the remainder, with their wives and families,
being away fishing. We were conducted over the
school and church, and into a house occupied by a
native, which was as comfortable as one could wish
to see. The custom of having a fire in the middle
of the sitting-room, with a large hole straight over it
for a chimney, is adhered to, and it has the advantage
of enabling people literally to sit round the fire, and
gives plenty of ventilation.
1    i £>iK«SS3*a253£Q5?€
38
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
'*\
The Chiefs presented an address, and sung hymns
and songs in Tsimgean and English.
It is most astonishing what Mr. Duncan has done
with these people, many of them cannibals, all of
them Pagans, under the influence of their medicine
men. These latter were naturally his greatest
enemies, and often tried to get him killed ; now,
they are completely under his rule and guidance,
and form as civilized a community as almost any
on the continent. Instead of dying out at a rapid
rate as the Hydahs and other tribes, the births far
exceed the deaths, while fresh converts from other
tribes continue to drop in. Each family is allotted
a plot of land, and encouraged to build a house
according to a plan of the town laid out by Mr.
Duncan. The streets are to radiate from a centre,
where the town-hall is to be built.
At 12.30, we embarked in the Sir James Douglas
for Fort Simpson, twenty miles off. On nearing
which we had a good view of Alaska Territory, some
five or six miles north of us. We found, on arriving,
all the men officials absent, but were received by Mrs.
Morrison, of the H. B. Co., and Mrs. Crosby, the
wife of the Methodist minister conducting the mission
there, who conducted us over the place. Mr. Crosby
has chosen a field for his labours rather too near Mr.
Duncan, and would have- been better at some place [Lord's Prayer in Tsimpsean.]
KIKEANQUASLKH  MEYAHNUMGH.
Wenagwahdum koo tsim lachahgh n'klootikshkh
noowahnt. Shahakshoah n'tsabanne. Shahko-
adkn turn wahl ah hahletsoamme newahltkh tsim
lachahgh. Kinnamslahgam ah shah quah alums h-
kaboo wenayah. Kahmkoadan ah nahahtahtach-
amttie newahldaji willah kabmkoadamme
habtachaddeahgam. Killoatndzah tahtainkum
shphit in shpahlt koadumt addah mah al tillah-
mautkum ilahhahtachaddt. Ahwil n'tsabandt,
addah nahkatkettandt tilth n'kloadnt addah turn
klahwillahwahl. Amen.
JU
EEMEUM   HALLESHQUIGHTKAHSHAH
1. Shah shah Meyahnuni khyounee
Nee nee klahkamgoat khdt
Addt hiedzahmachshkh nkslkookh ahtuin sbquighkhdt
Addah iumt quasgahgualshkh tsalt^h.
2. Kleh koidexum dahquan Meyahnum;$esu8,
Tup turn quasgahgual Tsant;
Shekooqualakshkh Tsan ah lach ohme,
Addah mah killam tsakanlookekskum.
3. Ahm mahdum tarn nhalgyahkan ah lachkakoad amme,
Addah mah klimaum tup turn wahandt
Kahh khtsiltsalamme turn shim tsalkum Noont,
Addah tup turn willigh tup turn yahkah willah kyawnt.
4. Klahnum ah turn will wah ashtewahlamme,
Shimkitdoh kakoadum dahquan :
Shahkatttelettum ah tup turn ahwayknt
Addah tup turn wahshkh nhshquightkumgh lachahgh.  Metlah Catlah.
39
where no missionary had been before, for Mr. Duncan began his labours at Fort Simpson. Here we
saw some of the curious poles with strange, goggle-
eyed crests in them, which the chiefs put up in front
of their houses, each tribe being subdivided into crests
of which they are very proud. After spending an
hour on shore, we returned to Metlah Catlah, being
met by canoes full of Indians, who sang weird,
tuneless, native songs, and escorted its to the ship.
Mr. Duncan and Collinson dined, and told us much
that was interesting regarding the village and people.
The principal Chief came off, and presented his
Excellency with a wonderful medicine man's hat,
which he said he had no further use for, and which
he was ashamed of possessing, as indeed they all are,
of any of the things belonging to their old savage
customs. It consisted of a straw hat, with a long
column-like top made of a fibre they get from the
roots of the pine. Their Excellencies were given
several curiosities in carving and silver work, and
some more were sent off to the ship to be disposed of;
but the Commodore laid violent hands on them all,
and I the other poor bears had none."
Thursday, August 31.—We were to have left
Metlah Catlah at 4 a,m., but, owing to a thick fog,
we could not; however, it cleared up about nine, and 40
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
1 I
we started. We had a very fine passage across to
the Queen Charlotte Islands, arriving at the harbour
of Skidegate at five o'clock. We all went ashore as
soon as possible to see the village. It was a most
curious sight; there was a long row of low houses,
each containing five or six families, and having in
front a high pole, curiously carved, some with animals
on the top, some with beads or hats, supposed to be
the crest of the owners of the hut; in most cases the
base of the pole was hollowed out, and formed the
door of the hut. We went into one, and found it
cleaner and tidier than we had' expected. His
Excellency had a conversation with a nice old
squaw, who was the widow of a great chief; we
tried to buy some things, but nobody got anything
but Nowell, who secured a bowl of mountain sheep
horn. We saw the graves of some Indian chiefs
here. Near one of them was placed two canoes to
carry him over the silent lake; there was also a
blanket placed for his use on the journey. We
came on board at seven o'clock, and sent the interpreter to arrange a grand bear hunt for the morrow.
Whist in the Captain's cabin, and the music of Scotland, illustrated by Mr. W. Campbell, in the Wardroom, helped all hands to spend a very pleasant
evening !!!!   p=s i-J-'-uJsm^memammsms^
Skidegate.
41
Friday, September i.—The "Great Bear Hunt"
spoken of by the previous writer, started at 6 a.m.,
and consisted of his Excellency and the Commodore,
with the half-breed and a canoe full of Indians, who
walked along the trunks of fallen trees, slipping and
stumbling along, eating berries, and straining their
ears for sounds of sport in vain. Once the dogs
"gave tongue," but it was a false alarm. Winter,
the Commodore's coxswain, went head foremost,
loaded gun in hand, between the fallen trees, and
had to be helped out of his dilemma.
The boat's crew went asleep on the shore, the
leader with his dog suggested the uselessness of the
chase very early in the day, but'the Englishmen
kept him to it as long as they had time to spare,
and only returned—without a bear—at one o'clock
to the ship.
The Colonel, under the guidance of an Indian
beauty, went out fishing, and caught nothing ; but, on
his return, he went ashore with Nowell, who had
discovered many hidden treasures in the cottages,
and who had a happy knack of bargaining with the
natives.
Her Excellency and the Freds went out in the
Captain's galley and visited a small trading station ;
the Indians come here to sell dog-fish oil, which is
bought by Mr. Clark, an American.   His encampment 42
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
I 1
is in a lovely little bay, and the Indians were all
lying about the shore in small tents; fishes' heads
and tails all about; beds and boxes and canoes;
pots boiling, and bowls of berries and oil being eaten.
The people themselves dressed in blankets, and with
their faces much painted. We had a grand pow-wow
over the purchase of six silver bracelets, and eventually carried off some very nice ones, a pair each.
Mr. Clark presented us each with a stick, and on our
return to the ship we sent him a photograph and
some cigars. Fred Ward fell in love with the beautiful
blue hat of an ancient dame, but feared that it had
been worn over too doubtful a chignon to be worth
purchasing. We saw two horrible wooden lips,* and
several with silver pins through them.
On our return to the Amethyst we found the ship
surrounded by canoes filled with hideous painted
faces, and.great exchange and barter going on. We
showed our six bracelets to the Indian who was doing
all the business, and he was not pleased when he
heard the price we gave, and would not let us have
his for so little. When Fred Ward was trying hard
to bring him down in his price for one I wanted, the
man told him "he might go and eat" (lunch had
* Note by Editor.—The native women consider to stick out
their lower lips with a wooden plate a great addition to their
beauty. 3«  "«"™"MBeJa»fSaT*p»"S"«™w
Alert Bay.
43
been announced), so Fred had to pocket his dignity
and give him what he asked.
We had a very fine afternoon, and got out to sea
prosperously. We played whist in the cabin, and I
am told that Mr. Campbell "d'Erina" sang in the
Ward-room.
Saturday, Sfptember 2.—We awoke to find
ourselves in rough water, and a dense fog. One of
the party, who shall be nameless, did not appear at
breakfast, not, however, in consequence of the fog.
About 10 a.m. we were fortunate enough to fall in
with the Sir James Douglas, and that useful little
vessel piloted us safely, till at last the atmosphere
became so thick that we could scarcely see a ship's
length ahead of us; we had consequently to leave
off steaming, especially as the man at the mast head
reported land not only on the port bow, but also
right ahead. After a quarter of an hour's suspense,
at about 12.30 p.m.. to our great relief, the fog
I lifted," and we found ourselves uncomfortably, it
not dangerously, close to land. The delay caused
by the fog prevented our making Blenkinsop Bay,
which we had hoped to reach before dark, so at 5.45
p.m. we dropped anchor in Alert Bay (Cormorant
Island). Here there is a private trading-post kept
by a Mr. Hewson, whose wife is an Indian native of c n»>a.*H». tj isEEiaajftEa
44
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
iiii
Alaska Territory. Close to this trading-post is a
small Indian village which, on landing, we found to
be full of Indians squatting in rows outside their huts,
not dressed, as we had expected they would be, in
European costume, but having each a dirty white
blanket wrapped round him or her, and for headdress a coloured handkerchief tied round the forehead. The scene, in spite of smells and dirt, was
decidedly picturesque. Something had evidently occurred, as there were apparently many more inhabitants than the 10 or 15 huts could accommodate. We
entered the Chief's hut, a disgustingly dirty place,
in which three distinct families were living in separate
corners ; the people seemed very stupid and more
uncommunicative than the natives we have seen
hitherto; on enquiring of Mr. Hewson we found
out the cause. It seems that the inhabitants of this
village having lately returned from some part of the
United States' coast, with several barrels of whisky in
their canoes, invited the Indians of another village
to a feast, which consists of a daily round of dancing,
eating, drunkenness, as long as the liquor lasts;
this, their sixth days' orgie, was suddenly brought
to a close by the arrival of the Amethyst. Before one
of these feasts takes place, the medicine man of the
village hides himself in the forest, returning on the
morning of the feast; he runs up and down the village  LV»j*i**iSih-#v< *"5zs*«ji-j*s: sesiH-fct^ Alert Bay.
in a state of nudity, eating human flesh, in this case a
hand, which he procures from one of the graves.
Having partaken of this ghastly food, he is seized
with a sort of phrensy, rushes after the first person
he sees, and on catching man or woman, bites a piece
of flesh out of his victim's arm ; the hunted wretch
when caught remains perfectly still under the operation, which, in the event of capture, is considered an
honour ; six people had the misfortune to be thus
honoured, but neither the biter nor the bitten could
be produced as, on the appearance of the Amethyst,
they had been hidden ; perhaps it was lucky that the
former could not be found, as, presuming he was
drunk, he might have appeared minus his blanket
After dinner on board, we spent, forgetful, I am
afraid, of the degrading misery on shore, a most
amusing and entertaining evening at a performance
given on the upper deck by the Christy Minstrel
Troupe of blue jackets; the singing, original jokes,
and dancing were very good, particularly the latter:
one joke at the expense of his Excellency's | suite |
brought down the house.
P.S.—As the author leaves his readers dying of
curiosity, the Good Samaritan begs to supply them
with the missing joke.     | What is  the difference
between the Governor-General's staff and a pair of
trousers ?—The one is a whole suit(e) the other only Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
half a suit." Lest his Excellency should be supposed
to be ungrateful towards the givers of this excellent
entertainment, it should be mentioned that a letter
was written to " Mr. Johnston," begging him to accept,
on his own account and on behalf of the other performers, the Governor-General's thanks, and paying
them a particular compliment upon their " choratic |
talent.    Kumtax ?
Sunday, September 3.—Left Alert Bay early ;
a lovely morning; steamed through the Seymour
Narrows ; the tide being with us we were swept along
at a great pace, through whirlpools and overfalls;
there is a rock right in the middle of the channel,
plainly shown by the breaking water, where an
American man-of-war was lost last year. Anchored
in the evening at Tribune Bay, where we had spent
the night of August 25.
Monday, September 4.—We left Tribune Bay
about 7 a.m., and made straight for the light-ship at
the mouth of the Fraser River. We then went to
Burrard's Inlet, where we were to leave the Amethyst
for our trip inland. On arriving we found that the
Rocket had arrived with a mail on board. Great was
our disappointment when we found that our bags
only contained one lot of English  letters instead of   Burrard's Inlet.
47
the three we had expected. After reading our home
news, we landed and proceeded to "do" Mr. Raynur's
saw-mills, where we found an enormous loghawled up
ready for sawing. We then walked to some Indian
huts, which we inspected and found fishy; then some
Sandwich Islanders were introduced to us.
# In the evening we received two more mails by the
Douglas.
It is here my painful duty to add that our pleasure
on board the Amethyst was marred by the fact that
one of his Excellency's suite had so conducted himself that he had to be tried by court-martial. It was
truly a painful scene, heightened by the callous
demeanour of the prisoner. Luckily for him, a
doctor's certificate prevented his receiving the punishment awarded. I think it only fair to add that it
was not Colonel Littleton, nor Captain Ward, nor
Mr. Hamilton who stood at the bar of Naval justice.
Tuesday, September 5.—Burrard's Inlet.
The repose of a sea life is over. Posts, telegrams,
addresses, replies, arches, bands, and salutes are alive
again ! Before we had finished our breakfasts we
were hurried into boats and put on board the Douglas,
and in her we steamed along for an hour, when we
were bundled into more boats and were^ set ashore in
the " bush."    We walked to the foot of a great tree
.»-
1 iiiW^a£_gJ!wWjaai 48
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
I
200 feet high and six feet in diameter, with two
enormous gashes in its side, and with two men with
axes standing on spring boards stuck into its trunk
twelve feet from the roots. Having chosen a safe
spot to stand in, and having an eye to a place of
refuge to fly to in case of accidents, we stood with a
calm pleasure to watch the downfall of this lord of
the forest. The two men set to work, and ten
minutes sufficed to lay him low. He began slowly
to bend to one side, and then came crashing down,
and with a great thud fell upon the ground.
"Hurry up" into the boats, into the Douglas,
back to the ship, dress, half eat lunch, back into the
boats, hold on to a tow-rope and be dragged at a
furious pace through the floating wooden dangers
which carpet the sea; land, get into carriages and
drive eight miles over a (good) corduroy road to
Westminster. There, put on your slow and most
dignified air, and remember that you are in the Royal
city, and must behave accordingly.
The Mayor met his Excellency and welcomed
him, and preceded him through the town; a guard
of honour and a band came first, and then there was
an arch and several decorations, two of which were
rather amusing—one was " Per vias rectas—By the
Fraser Valley," the other | Speed the Railway," with
a model train running backwards and forwards over
m I   Westminster.
49
the motto. After a short drive we turned and drove
up a grass hill, at the top of which were three platforms, well arranged, covered in with flags, and
decorated with evergreens. The view over the
Fraser River, the town, and the distant mountains
was beautiful. After different varieties of the white
man had presented addresses, and had been replied
to, and after hundreds of hands had been shaken, we
looked down the hill and saw a quantity of flags
marching up—the bearers of these gay banners were
all Indian chiefs, followed by a set of Indian volunteers who had got themselves into a very smart blue
uniform, and who were commanded by a gentleman
in an old red coat and a pair of epaulettes. The
chiefs formed into a great circle, the army remained
in a column. His Excellency went down and shook
hands with the great men, and then returned to the
platform and listened (through an interpreter) to the
speeches of four chiefs.
When it came to his turn to reply, he spoke one
sentence, which was taken up in turn by five men,
who each put it into some new Indian tongue—the
process was slow, but the sight was interesting. A
short lunch, and three good canoe races followed ;
then we said good-bye, and drove to the steamer.
On our way we got out to look at a great sturgeon
hanging  in  front of   a  fishmonger's  door,  and he Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
invited us to catch salmon by the light of the moon,
which invitation we accepted for that night. We
passed under a Chinese arch, and thanked the makers
of it for their attention. His Excellency had a long
business talk with some gentlemen, which made
dinner rather late, so we 1 hurried up" again, and
rushed out to see a canoe torch-light procession. We
steamed up a little way and back, the canoes following with their brilliant lights, and men on shore, also
with torches, running along the banks. Before the
lights disappeared for the night, there was cheering
and God Save the Queen.
We then prepared to go out fishing, and, conducted by 1 Mr. Herring," we had settled ourselves
comfortably in the boat, when 1 Mrs. Herring | was
announced, and we had to make room for her; she
proved a most talkative lady, and, in the language of
the country, " clouch tum-tum | was the burden of her
song. The " beautifulness" of various fishes and
dishes occupied her whole mind, and to the Commodore of one of Her Majesty's fleets, she enlarged
with fervour upon the merits of a particular bit of
fat in a particular place in the inside of a particular
fish. The Royal City she likened unto the Garden
of Eden, only giving the preference to the broils and
the stews, the currant wines and the potted salmons
of the Westminster Paradise upon earth.   Yale.
A boat in advance of us put down the net, and
after waiting half an hour, it was drawn up in our
presence, and we caught 6 salmon and a sturgeon.
" To bed, to bed, said sleepy head."
It was impossible to interrupt the narrative of this
day's crowded events to record the regret with which
we all left the Amethyst, where we had been entertained with such kindness and consideration, and
where we have spent ten such pleasant days. We
escaped the adieux by talking of our future voyage
to San Francisco, but a secret consciousness prevailed
amongst us that the trip was over, and we did feel
very sorry that it was so—very sorry to leave the
most homeish place on this side of Ottawa, and very
sorry to say good-bye to those on board. We broke
the farewell a little by carrying off the Commodore
on our inland journey.
Wednesday, September 6.—We awoke to a
glorious view of mountain scenery from the steamer
Royal City, by which we were ascending the rapid
current of the Fraser river. At Fort Hope we landed
for a few minutes ; a lovely spot on a large plateau
at the foot of a rocky and precipitous mountain, the
view confined by peak upon peak, one more bold and
craggy than the other. At 3.30 p.m. we arrived
at Yale,   where  his   Excellency   was  received  with
I
II
J
■N Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
every demonstration of loyalty. We all dined at
Mr. Oppenheim's, and a very excellent dinner we
had. Their Excellencies slept there, the remainder
of the party sleeping on board the Royal City.
Thursday, September 7.—After a breakfast at
Mr. Oppenheim's, only equalled by the magnificent
banquet of last Evening, we started at 10 in our
four-horse coach, under the guidance of Mr. Steeve
Tingley, the crack whip of the country. Our way
lay along the canon of the Fraser; the road, a great
piece of engineering skill, skirting the edge of the
cliff, and overhanging the river at various heights
from 100 to 1,000 feet. No sort of wall or railing
to keep the adventurous traveller from falling into the
river below, quite enough for the nerves of most
people! Close to the water's edge, on every prominent point of rock one sees a platform from which
the Indians fish for salmon with a sort of coal scoop
net. The catches are enormous, and the fish are
cleaned and dried on the spot. The flesh being of
a dark red colour the dried salmon form quite a
feature in the landscape, which was of the same
grand and savage description we had enjoyed while
coming up the river, spoilt, alas, to-day by clouds
and rain. About twenty miles from Yale we came
to the narrowest part of the Fraser, a gorge called   The Fraser River.
53
Hell Gate, only some thirty yards wide, where the
river rushes through with great force; the depth is
unknown. Here we found a magnificent platform
prepared for us, overlooking the rift in the rocks
through which the water rushes. We saw some
evidences of mining at the various "Bars," as the
shingley patches are called, where the gold is-
deposited by the river.
At Boston Bar, a " played out | mining camp, we
lunched, and about 6 o'clock in the evening came in
sight of our camp, perched on Jackass Mountain,
where on ariving we found a most luxurious tental
building, containing bedrooms for their Excellencies,
and a spacious dining-room, papered with chintz and
carpeted. Each of the gentlemen had a tent to
himself. Not the least interesting feature of this
luxurious village was Mr. Sam with a row of pots
suspended over the fire.
The view from the site of our camp, looking down
upon the Fraser, 1,000 feet below us, was very fine,
but spoilt by the low clouds and rain.
We saw, on the way, several Indian winter habitations ; they make them by digging large holes in the
ground, and covering them with dome-shaped framework roofs, plastered with mud ; a hole is left in the
top, to answer the double purpose of chimney and
entrance, down which hole a notched pole is stuck by Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
way of staircase, the whole building looking like a
huge ant's nest. The Indians are said to remain
in these Kegwillie houses sometimes, for three or
four months at a time, without ever coming up for
a breath of air.
We spent a pleasant hour after dinner over a log
fire, smoking ourselves, and watching the Indians,
in the most intense enjoyment of a pipe, which they
passed from one to the other with great regularity
and fair play.
Friday, September 8.—I don't know how the
others felt this morning, but when I heard the rain
pelting on the canvas, I felt very reluctant to move.
It seems vicious on principle to move camp on a wet
morning. However, it makes all the difference when
the luggage goes on wheels, and one has not to consider wet aparahoes and soaked lash ropes. So
having, as usual, put off till the last moment, and
rather beyond it, and finished the Times, which was
a great deal too bad, as there was a lady in camp,
I turned out, trusting to my rapidity in dressing and
eating. Of course, I was last, and cannot say what
took place during the toilets of the other four; and
thus a very fertile topic was lost Luckily, it was
not raining very much. Ah Sam was there all
smiles—indeed, all   one grin;   he   stands  the  trip
esms*   tm
Kanaka Flat.
capitally, and, as all his kit seems to consist of an
umbrella and a worsted scarf, he is very quickly
ready. The large tent, which was, indeed, a fair-
sized three roomed house, stood • the rain well, only
in one spot did the weather get the better of it and,
as that was far away from the breakfast table, it did
not matter.
Into the coaches we all got, and the excellent
servants and savages packed all the* things away in
double quick time, the camp being left standing for
the return journey.
We noticed the rather precipitous bank next the
Fraser, and the vertical wall on our right, a sort of
pudding-stone at the upper part of the road, undistinguished metamorphic shade lower down. If we
could have gone lower, we might have found granite
or basalt. But all this precipice, some 2,000 feet
above the present Fraser (our camp was about 800),
seems to have been smelted out of a great bed of
washed gravel—an aqueous deposit—and how long
it had taken to deposit beds of such thickness, and
smelt them together afterwards, and upheave them, it
were quite useless to inquire. Thence to Kanaka
Flat, where we changed horses (47 miles), and thence
to Siska Flat. Notwithstanding the rainy weather
we saw them in, both these farms appeared withered
with much drought.    About 53 miles, after admiring Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
the beautiful rocky bed of the Fraser River all the
way, two or three mounted Indians met us, and
having ascertained that the Vice-Regal party was
there, dashed ahead to give notice to Rev. J. B. Good
and his Siwashes, whom we found in great array—
400 or 500 of them, and at least 100 horses. Among
others my old friend Spintlem (whom they have now
re-christened "David," as an Anglican Christian)
and Chalbot I did not see any of importance.
Nawessia had refused to come, perhaps objecting to
the inviter, perhaps soured by having lost his potato-
grounds on the "Wase." However, it was a very
excellent show, plenty of banners and babies, all
looking well dressed and fat Rev. Good did it very
well, I thought, presented a very fair address in
Thompson and English, and they all sang God Save
the Queen in Thompson. His Excellency—"parla
peu, mais parla bien,,}—evidently pleased with the
assembly, pleased with the address, pleased with their
manners, dress, and address, and then begged to be
permitted to offer them a " beef or two." Beef, flour,
and sugar; the application of the funds being carefully guarded from the manipulations of either the
pere or Kilroy the butcher, who looked more decidedly
like himself to-day than I remember. Not only his
moustache, but his whiskers were shaved to a thread ;
and he had his best clothes on, which is a great trial  ■#8**
H
i    n* ^
ESS*- **^*4^Bi
?ft
vtj~us
fflwfUlH mm
Lytton.
for gentlemen of his quality. In highlows and red
nightcap he would be almost picturesque—at least
characteristic.
To Lytton itself we were followed by all the
mounted part of the assembly, with Parson Good at
their head, in square college cap and cassock, looking
like a lunatic rector.
Opposite the Globe there was another arch of
more imposing dimensions. All the City fathers
were quite sober and clean. Mrs. Buie was there,
and Mrs. Hautier, of course, with a baby in her arms.
They were presented by Tom Saward, and came
back to me quite charmed with the easy grace and
kindness of their reception. I did not hear the
address, being busy with the beef at Tom Buie's, and
had barely time to tip Chakot, and give a parting
warning to Mrs. Buie's foreman not to let Kilroy get
the better of him, when we all had to jump in and be
off, followed by Parson Good and his staff of ioo for
a couple of miles. I was glad to find my report of
the ladies' style of riding* met with approval in high
quarters; indeed, I think it far more decorous than
many a riding habit I have seen in a side-saddle.
The ladies were summoned, nothing loth, to the front,
* Note by Editor.—Indian ladies ride on men's saddles
like the men. Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
and plug after plug of tobacco handed out to them
over the stern of the carriage, with 11 wonder what
they will do with it ?" I did not wonder at all, for I
knew right well.
Up the blue Thompson, like a ribbon far below,
fringed with rocks, and bedded in with cliffs ; some
on the north side (about sixty miles) meeting with
general approbation; its eddies, however, were, from
the safe attitude of the carriage, not thought so
dangerous as they are deemed. Down comes the
rain again, and we have to be closed in almost to
Nicaomeen—luckily it had held up for an hour while
at Lytton, and now, too, though unlucky, in having
rain at all, we might consider ourselves lucky in
having a fair half hour, while we stopped at Cook's
Ferry for lunch. Here there v/ere more Indians—
fifty or sixty—and here another cultus patlatch of
flour, sugar, and tobacco. I got two or three of
the cottony pods, which are deemed very pretty,
and I felt correspondingly proud.
Off again, in most scowling gloom. I think
Lady Dufferin has quite got over any slight fears
that people below have been putting into her head,
but I cannot yet obtain that she will take a seat
in the "foretop," as the Commodore calls the box
seat. By-the-bye, he is painfully terrestrial. I have
not once heard  him   sing   out " Fire rocks  under   Cornwall s Valley.
59
the port bow," or remark that we were taking in
water over the starboard gunwale—which was nevertheless the case. And, in fact, I rather doubt
whether it was the Commodore who named the box-
seat I the foretop," or whether it was not some witty
but shy member of the party, who fathered the joke
upon him. The 88-9 mile bluff was, perhaps, a little
trying, and then I mentioned how a distinguished
M.P., whose name is not (now) Smith, jumped off
the stage at this point, thinking it was, I suppose,
what the Yankees call the end, or jumping-off place
of creation.
Changed horses, in pouring rain, at the 89 mile flat
I have rarely seen heavier rain than what now persecuted us at every turn ; with blue sky behind, by Nicola
River, and clear sunshine in front, by Couteaux
Creek, we seemed to head away more and more to
the darkness of Erebus, up Cornwall's Valley. The
rain dripped through the roof; it drifted in over my
shoulders, and my sleeves got wet. I believed myself
more uncomfortable than I was, and I almost hoped
that everybody had the same feelings. We all sat
pretty silent; nor was there much to talk about
except the rain—detested topic. At last, just at
dusk, we reached our destination. Their Excellencies
went into the upper house, and we all quartered at
the pub.! 6o
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
Here, again, let me be just to the weather; it just
held up for that half hour. We soon got a stove
under way, and some supper, and some hot grog,
but we were all too tired to eat, or even to drink,
and soon and silently turned in.
The three furies* made their appearance half an
hour after us in a peltering storm. Luckily, it cleared
up somewhat in an hour, and they went on to better
quarters at Mrs. Jones's.
Hi I
if 111'
Saturday, September 9.—Everybody anxiously
asked about the weather on their first appearance in
the morning, and many and divers were the answers
received. Happily, it turned out a most beautiful
day; neither too hot nor too dusty. We started
about 9.30, and were soon met by a numerous band
of Indians, who appeared before us, with all the
colours of the rainbow, on horse-back. Then ensued
a half hour of great excitement, flags waving, drums
beating, horses neighing, people calling and shouting,
then women and children, horses and foals galloping
all pver the plains around us, babies before and babies
behind sacrificing their poor little heads in a universal
wag of benevolence and good-feeling as they were
* Note by Editor.—As this worthy contributor to the journal
named the newspaper correspondents.  "&*w>Zc&&d   £oJ£l-+
»W.I I'll Will ll Kamloops.
61
carried bumping up hill and down dale. This went
on till we got to Cache Creek, where his Excellency
I wau-waued 1 with them, and gave them the usual
pork and flour. He also took a few portraits, much
to the delight of the subjects.
We then drove on to Savona's Ferry, where we
took a steamer which conveyed us to Kamloops.
On the way we saw some ducks and geese, but by
the time guns were loaded of course they had disappeared. The sight which interested us most was
just as we rounded the corner opposite Kamloops, a
large band of loose horses was driven down to the
river side and galloped along as if for our entertainment. On our arrival, four horses were put to the
coach we had brought with us, and his Excellency
drove up to the town ; the Indians as we passed
through were mounted and drawn up in two lines,
down which his Excellency drove, followed by three
of the suite who were on horseback. There was an
arch and the usual address, after which his Excellency
was driven round the | city." Some of the Indians
came down to the steamer's side and sang while we
were at dinner. About six a deputation came on
board, and remained so long that Ah Sam became
unmanageable, and insisted upon sounding a gong to
warn his Excellency that dinner was ready ; but the
sound had little effect upon the politicians, who had 62
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
dined at six, and whose grievances were more rampant
than their appetites.
IN
Sunday, September io.—As there is no church
at Kamldops we had prayers before breakfast in the
cabin. At that meal we had a lively conversation
upon masculine and feminine beauty, and considered
whether the peacock admires his own tail, or whether
the peahen is consoled for her want of beauty by
contemplating that of her lord.
Our steamer was soon set in motion, and we
crossed to see the Indians settled opposite Kamloops.
His Excellency had a long talk with the priest, and
then went ashore and talked to the chiefs, who
have a great land grievance. When it was over he
mounted one of their horses and rode with them,
and the Colonel, Mr. Hamilton, and Captain Layton,
to see their farms. Her Excellency returned to the
ship, and his Excellency came back for lunch, having
enjoyed his gallop with the Indians. He took another
ride in the afternoon to see the country, and the
others walked. Mr. Dewdney and Mr. Vernon dined
with us; the latter lent his Excellency a horse, and
gave him a grizly bear skin.
Monday, September ii.—Started at 5.30 a.m.
on our return journey, for Savona's Ferry, 3 miles  ass        i iip*nwm
*mwm-
... -;.i.-v;>-'-.
W
i f* isttmmm
Ashctoft.
63
from which his Excellency, Sir M. Begbie, Colonel
Littleton, andv Mr. Hamilton, were landed to shoot
short-tailed grouse. There were only two guns, and
after some exceedingly pretty sporting along the
shore of the lake, they managed to bag during two
hours 5^* brace. The Commodore and her Excellency
fished for trout in the Thompson River, which runs
out of Kamloops Lake at Savona's Ferry, with
tolerable success. The coach brought us to Ash-
croft at 6.30 p.m., we all dined at Mr. Cornwall's,
the party (with the exception of their Excellencies)
sleeping at the hotel. In the middle of the night
Capt. Layton repeated in his sleep an accident he
had on the road about ten days ago—imagining
himself to be tumbling down the bank, broke out in
loud tones, declaring he could not drive the horses.
Mr. Tingley, our driver, being anxious to hear as
much as possible, answered Capt. Layton, who, still
in his sleep, and, in the loudest tones (awakening
every one in the house), informed Mr. T. that he did
not know who he was speaking to. Sam, who slept
with only a wooden partition between him and Capt.
Layton, was terrified out of his senses, and when
asked in the morning how he had slept, pointed at
Capt. Layton and shook his head.
Tuesday,  September  12.—Having dispatched
MM 64
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
Sam at 7, in order to have dinner ready for us on our
arrival at the camp, we started at 8, with a clear sky
and a prospect of great heat and dust. Happily, the
effects of the heavy rain we had experienced on our
way up were still apparent, and we escaped with no
dust to speak of. We enjoyed the grand scenery of
the Thompson in sunshine, seeing it under quite a*
different aspect from the journey up; the mountain
peaks, some 7,000 or 8,000 feet high, rising almost
perpendicularly from the opposite bank, were clear
and distinct. Several stray parties of Indians saluted
us at different points on the road, and were rewarded
with tobacco. We arrived at our camp on Jackass
Mountain about 7, not at all sorry to find ourselves
in such comfortable quarters.
Wednesday, September 13.—We were all
awoke at cock-crow by the enthusiastic Nowell, who
wanted everybody to get up and see the fog, which
was hanging over the river below us in a very curious
manner. As, however, the present writer did not
get up himself, he is not in a position to describe the
sight. We left camp at about 9, having had some
difficulty in turning the coach. The leaders had to
be taken out, and then the coachman, assisted by
his Excellency, the Commodore, and Mr. Hamilton,
managed to get it round safely.    The drive was very  ill Victoria.
6S
pleasant indeed, rather hot, but not sufficiently so to
spoil any one's pleasure. We lunched at Boston Bar,
and some of the party bathed.
We arrived at Yale about 5—her Excellency
occupying the foretop in the coach—went on board,
and had some tea. Her Excellency wishes it to be
recorded that Mr. Tingley declared privately to the
A.D.C. that she (who has so bad a character for
courage at home) | had not a scare in her." Mr. and
Mrs. Oppenheimer dined on board the Royal City
with us, after which the Colonel went up town to
settle accounts. The rest of the party went to bed
very early, and were disturbed by one of the suite,
who would read aloud anecdotes out of the paper,
until he was called to order by a sleepy voice from a
neighbouring cabin.
Thursday, September 14. — The stem wheel
woke us all early, and shook us about a good deal
while we breakfasted, and, indeed, until we left the
steamer, where it rolls supreme.
We reached New Westminster at 11 a.m., and
there the Commodore and Captain Layton left us.
The Royal City took us to the Douglas, and on board
of her we steamed to Victoria. We arrived there in
a pouring rain, and thought that, after all our travels,
an arm chair and  a well lighted room looked very
F
r**-«imm-m.yg 66
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
comfortable.    Our mail awaited us, and we enjoyed
our letters over a good fire.
Friday, September 15.—This morning, some
twenty of the chain-gang arrived, in charge of two
warders, armed with revolvers and double-barrelled
guns. The duty which the prisoners had come to
perform was the hard labour employment of picking
chickens for the ball. The Colonel and Mr. Hamilton walked into town on business.
Saturday, September 16. — His Excellency
spent the day till four with deputations, then we
went to the rifle range, where the annual meeting
of the B. C. Rifle Association was in progress—
some tea—shooting—a cold wind—a gathering of
fashionables. For the evening, we attended an
amateur concert given in aid of a charity, and we
felt ourselves very charitable as we listened to a
young lady singing " Love me once again," but, in
spite of our feelings, we did not respond.
Sunday, September 17.—Their Excellencies and
the Commodore walked.
Mr. Hamilton went to the light-house.
Capt. Ward  called   on  Sir James Douglas and
if  I Copy of a Letter addressed to the Prime Minister of
British Columbia, relative to the useful employment of the Prisoners in the Penitentiary.
Government House,
Victoria, B.C., Sept. 14th, 18*76.
Dear Mr. Elliot :
Will you kindly allow the prisoners at
present in the Penitentiary (with the exception of
those convicted of wilful murder and political
offences), to come up here to-morrow morning,
about eleven (that is after their breakfast), to pluck
fowls and grouse, make jellies and trifles, and
otherwise make themselves generally useful in
preparing for the ball on Monday ?
Yours very sincerely,
(Signed,)       B. G-. P. Littleton,
Gov't GenVs Sec'v.
P.S.—If you could spare a few as waiters, for
the supper, they would be very acceptable. Their
uniform would be a pleasing contrast to that of
the naval and military officers. '■ Victoria.
67
found him out—this was most unlucky, as, to ensure
admittance, Captain Ward went in by the back door
just as Sir James went out at the front. (Memo.: For
the future, if one wishes to see the gentlemen of the
house, call at the front door.) Most fortunately,
Miss Douglas was at home, and entertained the
disappointed Captain Ward most agreeably for a
couple of hours.
Monday, September 18.—The event of the day
was the ball. Why waste time in describing their
Excellencies' visit to the High School, their visit
to Mrs. Prutch, the deputations that as usual swarmed
round the Governor-General. Nobody on this day
cares for anything but the ball. Captain Ward commands his convicts to polish the floors, to arrange
the flowers ; the sailors finish the canvas corridor
which runs round the outside of the room; line it with
flags, hang the most enticing of many-shaped and
many coloured lanterns in it, and put the softest of
sofas and chairs to tempt chaperons out of the
dancing-room. Captain Ward turns the dreary
garden into a series of dimly lighted bowers—looks
at the supper, and has whispered into his ear the
horrible rumour that Ah Sam is drunk, and that
however satisfactory the outside of the viands may 68
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
appear, the inside will not bear inspection. With
this arrow planted in our hearts, we gallantly prepare to face our guests.
We have a very jolly little dinner in a small room,
and are a little cheered about the supper by finding
that this is good.
By 9.15 a sufficient number of guests have arrived,
and we opened the ball. The Lieutenant-Governor
and Mrs. Richards have to dance the first quadrille
with their Excellencies, and are horrified to find that
they are expected to walk the whole length of the
room. After this the spirit of the ball rose high, and
it was soon an assured success. Everybody danced,
fathers, mothers, daughters, sons; the sofas failed to
tempt the chaperons; the Chinese lanterns only proved
enticing for short spaces between the dances; good
honest, downright dancing was the order of the night,
and it went steadily on till three. The supper was
not spoiled ; Ah Sam was not drunk; the rooms
were not too crowded*; and in the Colonel's bedroom,
which served as cloak room, there was a souvenir
left—a thing which has a vulgar name—but which in
• fashionable life holds the honourable office of a "dress
supporter;" this one, bran new, but rather stiff and
likely to rustle, had been abandoned early in the
evening by its  fair owner, and when  the  Colonel   MUtfM
Esquimault.
69
returned to his room he found it placed as a fire
guard in his chimney.
| Our Colonel wears a martial air
And boasts no end of muscle,
Then why on earth should lady fair
Present him with her bustle ? |
N.B.—The thanks of the company are due to
Captain Ward for the great success of this, the first
ball which he has entirely managed.
Tuesday, September 19.—At 12 noon we drove
to Esquimault, where his Excellency performed the
ceremony of driving the first pile of a coffer dam,
preparatory to building a dry dock. This ceremony
was successfully performed in the presence of all the
leading inhabitants of Victoria and Esquimault, and
under a salute of 21 guns from H.M.S. Amethyst.
The modus operandi was as follows:—We went in
boats to a large floating raft, on which was an engine
with a rope attached to a drum. His Excellency, in
starting the engines caused the drum to revolve, which,
by means of the rope, hoisted a heavy weight to the
top of a high frame-work, self-acting machinery
released the weight, which, falling on the guillotine
principle, drove the pile a few inches into the ground.
The  ceremony being  over, we were  towed to the
m ■i ■■ ■■pBiiiuiiM*. i vau>rA*wsasxi*&/anst
1
1 :.
70
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
dockyard close by, which we inspected. We then
adjourned to lunch, which was laid out in a large
tent. Her Majesty's and his Excellency's healths
were drank, his Excellency replying to the latter.
We then visited H.M.S. Rocket, 4 guns, 460 tons,
commanded by Capt. Harris, after which we returned to Government House. His Excellency
received a deputation. In the evening there was a
dinner party.
Wednesday, September 20.—Our last day at
Victoria, everybody very busy. His Excellency
received a deputation at 11 to make his final speech,
which took 2\ hours to deliver. Their Excellencies
attended the christening of the Cornwalls' baby, his
Excellency standing godfather.
In the afternoon we went to a public picnic on
Beacon Hill, where roller skating, racing, and such
enlightened games as " Kiss in the Ring," " Catch
me, kiss me," were indulged in, but not by their
Excellencies.
In the evening embarked on Amethyst, and
attended some glee singing and negro minstrelsy
by the officers and men.
Thursday,
Amethyst.
September   21. — On   board   the  I: At Sea.
After breakfast we all looked anxiously for Mr.
Campbell,  who was  to  bring off his  Excellency's
speech; he  arrived  about   n, and then every one
seized  on  a  paper and   retired   to   read   it.    Her
Excellency,  the  Commodore,  and  Ward went  out
rowing.      His  Excellency  and  Hamilton went on
board the  Sir James Douglas, where there was a
large  party  assembled   to  say   good-bye   to   their
Excellencies.   We weighed anchor about 12.30.   The
Douglas accompanied us about 10 miles, then left us
amid much waving of handkerchiefs from both ships.
At about six it began to be what the Colonel called
" mmpy," but whether he referred to a feeling in his
throat, or to the waves, we are not sure.    At dinner
the I lumpiness" became more and more " lumpy,"
and our dinner party, one by one, went on deck—
" just to see if the Dacotah was in sight;" at last, no
one but the Commodore,   1st Lieutenant, and Mr.
Hamilton, were left.    Those on deck did^ not come
back to make any report of the Dacotah.
Friday, September 22.—At sea—sea-dy.
Saturday, September 23.—Fine bright day.
Still roiing, but the motion so gentle that the whole
party recovered, more or less, for the afternoon. A
strong breeze sprang up dead aft, and sail being set, 72
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back
we bowled along at a fine rate, making at one time
15 knots an hour. All the party were able to appear
at this their last dinner on board the Amethyst.
Sunday September 24.—Daylight found us,
entering the Golden Gate, and by 7 we were safe at
anchor, after a prosperous passage of 67 hours—
about the fastest ever made. After church we
landed, and spent the rest of the day in peace and
quiet. The Amethyst beat the Dacotah by 24 hours,
and we are told that the captain of the latter ship
had backed her heavily, and certainly he did not
expect such a defeat.
Monday, September 25.—At 12 o'clock, we
went on board the Amethyst to a farewell luncheon.
The lunch was a great success. His Excellency
made a speech after it, thanking the officers for their
kindness, in which we all most heartily joine4 for
nothing could have been greater than the kincness
we all received while on board. We were then
photographed on the quarter-deck with the officers
and said adieu to them with great regret.
Directly we arrived at the hotel we had to hurry
off, so as to catch the train to take us into the
country. We drove from a small station to Mill-
brae,  Mr.  Mill's   villa,  where we were shovn  the ^m^mmmm  Belmont.
73
house and pictures, the garden and conservatory.
It was a most beautiful house, the rooms all opening
into a centre hall, enamelled with lively woods. We
then got into the four-in-hand to drive to Belmont.
Soon after starting her Excellency's face showed
us that something was wrong ; she was right, the
horses were too much for Mr. Mills or his coachman. Luckily, a buggy of his came up behind, so
we were able to change the worst horses for quieter
ones. We arrived at Belmont just in time to dress
for the evening. General McDowell did the honours,
and introduced us to our partners for dinner. We
(the gentlemen) smoked after dinner, and the ladies
retired to dress themselves for the coming ball. The
party in the house, however, were down stairs before
the guests arrived, and so we did some corridoring.
At about io everybody had come, and the dancing
commenced. The leader of the orchestra shouted
out orders during the dance, which may have been
useful to those who understood what he said.
I do not pretend to be able to describe the young
ladies or their dresses ; suffice it to say that nature
and art combined to produce a very striking effect
One of these " combinations " was apparently much
admired by our gallant Colonel, who walked the
corridors, sat in the corners, and danced often with
the  same fair Californian.     Upon  being  called to 74
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
order by her Excellency (who watches over the
interests of Mrs. Littleton), he promised a very
satisfactory explanation, and, putting on the airs
of a martyr, declared that the lady in question
was " a great friend of a brother officer of his."
Chorus from various members of the party—" That
won't do, Colonel/' "Excellent excuse!" "Ha, ha,
ha," " That don't pan out" * (this from a vulgar
member of said party). Resolution passed by the
whole party, "that the words 'a brother officer's
wife • be incorporated into the regular Government
House language, and be understood to mean—something that may be 'told to the marines/ "
Tuesday, September 26.—The last author has
been lazy and has left unsaid much that might have
been related. He does not allude, except in the
most delicate manner, to the large amount of paint
and powder with which the youngest ladies present
thought it necessary to assist nature. He takes no
notice of the punch-bowl which replaced the ordinary
" tea-room " at a ball, and he ignores the numerous
corridors, of which he and others made such industrious use.    He forgets to note the great variety
* Note by EDITOR.—A Californian mining phrase signifying
" succeed."
j   San Francisco.
75
of costume worn by the ladies, the absence of sleeve
in some dresses and the superabundance of it in
others; nor does he describe the charming manner
in which Californian belles throw their arms about
the necks of grateful but astonished partners. In
fact, the author has been lazy, and has in some
unpardonable manner confused his own identity
with that of Cinderella, and at 12 precisely has
shown himself out, leaving his story behind him
to be taken up by the present writer.
Supper, I think, is the point at which he vanished,
and at which the editorial | We " comes on. A long
table, ornamented with a few sugar ships, and groaning under the weight of very ordinary food served in
white dishes, was set before us; no great display of
wealth here, and our last faint hope of solid silver
programmes, to be carried off as souvenirs, vanished.
An hour more of dancing and corridoring and then a
rush for cloaks and carriages, a dark drive to the
train, a sleepy journey in it, and we are at San
Francisco. Our party got into a coach, and considering the late hour and the crowd, consented to
squeeze a little, and to sit, three in places meant
for two. Imagine their feelings then, when, having
stuffed in six passengers, a large figure veiled in a
woollen shawl crushes in, and is followed by another
equally portly.    A little bench is mysteriously pro- 76
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
duced and placed between the knees of the six
already occupying the legitimate seats in the coach,
and upon this narrow bar the two well-favoured
ladies attempt to sit, and in so doing overflow on to
the knees of the Governor-General of Canada, and of
the Commodore of Her Majesty's Pacific Fleet.
We said good night to each other about four, and
in six hours after we met at breakfast.
Her Excellency and Capt. Ward started off as
soon as possible to be present at the christening of
I Fussy Ward's " baby. On arriving at the church
found its name still unchosen, but her Excellency,
who nursed it during the entire service, was instructed at the last moment to call it | Muriel May."
Almost every one spent a great part of the day in
the hands of the photographer; everybody shopped a
little, and a very important meeting took place at
which certain anonymous capes, islands, and mountains were given names. There is now a " Dufferin
Range," a "Countess of Dufferin Range," a "Ward
Cape," a " Hamilton Cape," a " Littleton Cape," a
J Chatfield Island," an "Amethyst," and a "Miller."
We spent the evening in China. First we went
to the theatre, in which we and our friends (General
Sherman's party) were the only Europeans. Some
people say the place is dirty, some say the acting is
stupid, we enjoyed it all so much that we can find no   ~*>ammm
The Theatre.
77
fault.    We looked with interest upon the Chinamen
below us, and upon the ladies, who sat by themselves
opposite  us ;   and  upon  the  stage  we  gazed  with
wonder and delight.    It was unencumbered by side
scenes,   or   scenery,   or  drop   curtain,   or  prompter.
It  stretched  straight   across  the theatre,   and  had
two doorways opposite the pit hung with curtains.
Between these doors, at the back of the stage, sat
the  musicians,  discoursing wild,  bag-pipish,  minor-
barbaric sounds, which  accompanied the play.    A
pipe was handed  round  occasionally, and when  a
performer had three bars to wait he enjoyed a little
smoke ; this gave a calm and domestic appearance to
the orchestra, and distinguished it from the gorgeous
figures in gold embroidery and satin, who walked the
stage, arguing affairs of state in strange language and
with  imposing  gestures, or who, warmed with  the
spirit of rebellion, rushed at each others' throats, and,
with a pirouette between each blow, struck a graceful
attitude and bewildered the spectator.    Then there
was a prima donna, of refined manners   but facile
morals ;    a   fascinating   gentleman   and   an   angry
husband, who, in common with the other officers of
his  regiment, was  principally distinguished  by the
vast expanse of chest, which he bared  before the
audience.     There   was   a " mother-in-law."   and   a
comic lead, and a tragedy-comic lead; and all the 7$
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
while the weird music, and the atmosphere of a new
world to heighten the effect; so that we had to tear
ourselves away, full of anxiety for the erring wife,
the murdered mother-in-law, the fighting mandarins,
the gay 'Lothario, who left his fan behind, and tht
naturally indignant husband', but of course as their
history may not be completed for six months, it was
impossible to wait for the denouement.
We left them, therefore, and vrent over to the
Caf^, where we were most hospitably received by the
ladies and gentlemen, who were gambling, singing,
smoking there. They gave us tea and sweetmeats:
the women studied her 'Excellency^ European garments, and exhibited their long nails in return; and
then with exchanges of addresses and good wishes
we parted from our new Chinese friends, and proceeded to visit their church.
The Joss House is in the top story of a house,
and we reached it by means of a staircase outside,
which looked over and smelt over the garlic-scented
habitations of 1 China," We examined this small
place of worship by tht light of two candles, and
studied the wooden faces and figures of three small
and very helpless-looking idols. The only thing
worth seeing was a very handsome allegorical wood
carving, gilt, which forms a screen between the door
and the  Gods,    In the figures there depicted we **mmm !  til ■ft
Oaklands.
recognised  several  that   had  been  represented   on
the stage.
We drove home, said good-bye to the Commodore, and congratulated ourselves that the last
evening on the Pacific should have been so pleasant.
Wednesday, September 27.—Left San Francisco at 7.30 a.m., steaming across the bay to
Oaklands, where we got on board the cars, our
car being a special one. Nothing worthy of note
occurred. We unfortunately passed through the
finest scenery of the Sierra Nevada by night.
Thursday, September 28.—We had to get up
at six by order, so up we got at last, having been
called on an average three times each. We breakfasted, lunched, and dined in the car, and ate fruit
and drank milk between whiles. Very hot, and very
dusty. We were detained twice owing to "contrairy"
wheels, the opportunity was seized by the industrious
for letter writing, &c.    At 9 to bed.
Friday, September 29.—After breakfast, at
Ogden, at our old quarters the Station Hotel, we
got into our Pullman, sent to meet us, and having
been tacked on to the Salt Lake train, we proceeded
to   Zion.      Everybody  in the train  was, of course, 8o
Ottawa to British Columbia and Back.
set down as a Mormon, and if an unfortunate man
was seen in proximity to any number of ladies, of
course they were put down as his wives. On arriving
at the city of the " Latter-day Saints," and getting
rid of a little of our dust, their Excellencies sallied
forth to call on Elder Jennings and his wives, to
whom they had a letter. The Colonel and Capt.
Ward meanwhile endeavoured to get something out
of Mr. Bridges by dint of a telegram, by no means
the first. We then set off, under the guidance of
Mr. Jennings, to see the sights. First, we went to
the Tabernacle, a hideous building, like the Albert
Hall feathered out and minus its decorations. It is
used for service only on grand occasions, and is,
capable of seating 12,000 people. The acoustic
properties of the building are excellent. To be
heard from one end of the building to the other it
is hardly necessary to raise the voice when speaking.
We met here a Mormon celebrity, Mr. Geo. Q.
Cameron, their Member of Congress, and the possessor of four wives. A local paper says he never
can be indicted for bigamy at Washington, for he
never takes more than one wife there at a time.
From the Tabernacle we went to Zion's Co-operative
Store, where the saints buy everything, and whence
the profits go to the prophets. We saw the back of
Brigham's favourite wife, and unless her front is more   Latter-day Saints.
81
attractive (we hear it is not) it is difficult to understand her influence over the prophet We passed in
the street Orson Pratt, a benevolent-looking humbug,
with a flowing white beard, said to be by far the most
learned Mormon. We inspected the theatre, then
a magnificent house in course of construction, for
Amelia, the favourite wife, passing on the way four
of Brigham's daughters; it is difficult to turn down
any street without meeting some of his family. The
theatre is very much like any other theatre by daylight. It requires the presence of some Mormon
elder with his family occupying the three front
rows of stalls and his wives filling the boxes, to give
it any special attraction. We then drove to a point
of view above the town, and admired the beautiful
site the city is built on, a slope which descends
gradually to the plain below, surrounded by an
amphitheatre of hills. Twenty or thirty miles off
the great Salt Lake is to be seen, a blue patch
in the distance. Nothing can be finer than the
situation of the city. We passed some conveniently
arranged Mormon houses, with several entrance
doors.
In the evening to an entertainment at Mr.
Jennings', where we met both Gentile and Mormon ;
of the former there were the Governor, Mr. Emery
and wife, and the officers from  Camp Douglas, the
G
UWMi'JJM 82
Ottawa to British Colombia and Back.
M\\
military post. We sat in a circle and talked, and
partook of champagne, fruit, and sweetmeats; it was
decidedly slow, and we got a "little mixed" about
the Mrs. Jennings's.
The opinions as to the vanity of Mormonism
differ. The gentlemen seem to think it worthy of a
trial; the lady condemns and disapproves of it in a
most decided manner, and could scarcely be constrained from expressing her disapproval to the
elders. Brigham, in one of his sermons, reproved
the young ladies of his congregation for adopting
modern fashions, such as " dress improvers," pull
backs, etc. He walked up and down the platform
mimicking the appearance of somebody dressed in
the obnoxious manner.
Saturday, September 30.—We left the city of
saintly sinners early in the morning, and as our
hotel-keeper playfully remarked, were " seen off with
fireworks," the fireworks being the burning of a rival
inn. The roof was a mass of flame, and the goods
were being thrown out of the window. After break-*
fast at Ogden, we proceeded on our way up the
Rocky Mountains. The weather began to be chilly,
and in the night we felt quite cold. We have a
consumptive conductor, who coughs in the most
painful way.  till Denver.
Sunday, October i.—Reached Cheyenne at
3 p.m. Here we have to remain till 5 to-morrow
when the train takes us south to Denver. Took
advantage of the halt for a little exercise. In the
evening the saloons, both drinking and gambling,
were in full swing; tho' 't were Sunday, the theatre
(Variety) does not open till midnight, out of respect
to the day. Saw some big nuggets from the Black
Hills. I
Monday, October 2.—On awakening found ourselves proceeding across the prairie, en route for
Denver, having been attached to our train in the
early hours of the morning—a process by no means
agreeable to sleepy people, and effected as follows :
An engine takes a run at your car, and having
bumped you so as to thoroughly awake everybody,
runs off with the car, up and down several times,
the change from up to down being defined by
bumps. At last, with a final smash, you are made
fast to your train, and off you go—your night's
rest spoilt. At ten o'clock we reached Denver
and proceeded to a very dirty hotel. His Ex
cellency and Captain Ward went in search of a
Turkish bath, which they took, but pronounced on
their return to be "one horse," there was only one
shampooer,   an   Irish   Canadian   and   an   ex-army 84
Ottawa to British Colombia and Back.
scout. Spent an uninteresting afternoon in the
most uninteresting city of Denver. In the evening
we were made to assist at a political demonstration.
Some election taking place next day, one party had
a platform in front of our hotel, from which they
harangued their admirers in the most approved
spread-eagle fashion. In return, their admirers
shouted and sang, disturbing our rest, but pleasing
themselves mightily.
Tuesday, October 3.—We left Denver without
regret at 10 in the morning, the dirty and fly-covered
tablecloth at breakfast "speeding" the parting guest
most effectually. We became acquainted here with a
mighty and long-haired hunter known as "Oregon
Bill," and received from him his photograph, wherein
he is depicted with an Indian's scalp hanging at his
belt; it is, however, beasts not men that he hunts,
and the owner of this scalp fell by another hand.
At the station a black young lady put her head
out of the window and asked a " coloured gentleman"
—the porter who was wheeling our luggage—to say
good-bye to some one for her. " All right, all right,
I '11 come and kiss yer all directly ; I 'm busy now
earning money," said this ebony wit.
We travelled all day through the ugliest country
imaginable.    A flat plain, without a curve or a tree   Topeka.
85
to be seen on its uninteresting surface. Prairie fires
in the evening were the only excitement we had.
The car shakes fearfully. As the station food is
bad we " run " our own commisariat department on
board ; and with the potted meats, and delicious
hot chocolate, guava jelly, and champagne which we
provide, we " pan out | very well, and are having
"quite" a "good time" in the enjoyment of three
I square meals " a day.
Wednesday, October 4.—A very depressing
day, being overcast and cloudy; affecting us the
more keenly in consequence of the extremely fine
weather we have been lucky enough to meet with.
We experienced a very rough night in the car, and
were nearly jolted out of our beds in consequence
of indifferent couplings, and a bad track.
N.B.—Ye who may read this journal, and contemplate a journey by rail in the U.S.—We are on the
Kansas Pacific Railway, stopped for lunch at Topeka
on the Arkansas River, where the food was reported
bad by those who tried it.
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5.—Awoke but little refreshed by the roughest night we have had. It was
generally believed that we had been off the track
several times.    Certainly, we often jumped far above 86
Ottawa to British Colombia and Back.
If SI
the rails. My friends, beware of the St. Louis,
Kansas City, and Northern Railway, and go any
distance to avoid it. We arrived at St. Louis at
about 6.30. and after breakfast their Excellencies
proceeded to a fair, where some intoxicated authority,
a General, assisted by two Colonels, only less intoxicated as becoming their lesser rank, took possession
of the party, and succeeded in preventing their seeing
anything. The crowd was immense, some 100,000
people. Capt. Ward went to call on a young lady
whose acquaintance he had made when at St. Louis
before, and who had since been married. Almost
the first thing she said was that she had a baby,
which somewhat staggered Capt. Ward at first, but
happily the matter was explained. The Colonel
went off to see a friend (female) of a brother officer
(vide ball at Belmont) and apparently, as he was
away all the afternoon, had a good time.
In the evening to a very stupid play called
"Self," and then to bed and rest, in spite of a noisy,
democratic demonstration, with bands, torches, and
whisky.
Friday, October 6.—We left St. Louis early in
the morning and started on the "Home stretch."
We stood at the end of the car and inspected the
great bridge over the Mississippi.     The railway is   Toronto.
87
underneath, the carriage way above. It is built on
three piers, with 500, 520, and 600 feet between
each respectively, and at a distance looks a most
flimsy, unsubstantial affair, while in reality it is a
very fine piece of engineering work.
The whole day was spent in reading up three
weeks' newspapers. At 7 we had our car tea, and
all went to bed early. Our car was left about
fifteen miles from Chicago, and was picked up about
11 p.m., and taken on its way to Detroit.
The company who have so far travelled together
broke up into atoms at Toronto. Their Excellencies
stopped there for two nights, and then he went to
Philadelphia, and she went to Montreal. Col.
Littleton and Mr. Ward proceeded to Ottawa, and
the latter having repacked his portmanteau, set off
again for New York, en route to England.
This journal comes therefore to an end, and the
I Great Tour | is over. In justice to the party it
must be added that they did not once quarrel on
the way, and that they return as good friends as
they left, and are all ready to start afresh at a
moment's notice!       

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