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Log of a voyage to British Columbia in the "West Indian." 1890-91 Wrigley, Howard 1891

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1890-91. LIVERPOOL:
Printed by W. P. Platt, 82 MEMOBANDA   OF   KEFEKENCE.
Left Liverpool, 1 p.m., December 3rd, 1890.
Lat. 53° 24' 40" N.    Long. 2° 58' 55" W. (St. Paul's).
Date. Place at or bound for. Latitude.     Longitude. Day's
Dec. 4...Off Tuskar Rock..  52°N. 5°30'w. 190
.   „    5... From Tuskar  49°   0' w.   12°40'w. 227
„    6...FromL'pool (491m.)  46°50'n.   14°22'w. 200
I    7...Dist. to Madeira 646 miles 43° 32'N.   15°34'w. 204
.   |    8...       „ „        425 m.... 39° 56'N.   16°   7'w. 221
„    9...       „ „        215m.... 36° 23' s.   16°46'w. 210
,, 10... Abreast Madeira     33°15'n.   17° 30'w. 198
„ 11.. To Bona Vista     856 m... 29° 56'N.   18°37'w. 207
| 12...       J „ 642m... 26°29'N.   19°42'w. 216
,,13...       „ „ 423 m... 22° 59'N.   20° 49' W. 218
,,14...       „ | 207 m... 19° 30'N.   21° 46'w. 216
„ 15...ToNoronho     1322 m. ... 15°50'n.   22°14'w. 216
„ 16... „ 1115 m. ... 12°33'n.   23°07'w. 208
I 17... „ 894m....   9°  1'n.   24°12'w. 221
| 18... „ 690m....   5°56'n.   25°39'w. 204
„ 19... I 485 m....   3°10'N.   27°40'w. 205
„ 20...To Cape Virgin 3707 m....   0°12's.    28°49'w. 216
Cross Equator.
„ 21...  „   „  3484 m.... 3° 31's. 30°30'w. 223
„ 22...  „   „  3258 m.... 6°51's. 32° 16' w. 226
„ 23...  „   „  3034 m. ...10° 14's. .33° 51'w. 224
,,24...  „   „  2805m,... 13° 22's. 35°43'w. 220
„ 25...  „   „  2584m.... 16°40's. 37°24'w. 221
,,26...  „   „  237lm.v.. 19°57's. ' 38°53'w. 210
» 27..   „   „  2131m. ... 22°57's. 41°42'w. 240
5140 Oays
•   ,, 29.
.   „ 30.
•   „ 31.
.Jan. 1.
•   „    3.
•   „    4.
•   »>   5-
•   „    6.
•   ,,   7
•   „    8
•   „    9.
•  „ io.
•   „ H.
•   ,, 12.
• •   „ 13
•   „ 14
..   „ 15
..   „ 16
• •   „ 17
..   „ 13
..   „ 19
• •   i 20
•   „ 21
••   » 23
-   „ 24
• •    „ 25
.   M 26
>,    £■!
.   „ 28
Place at or bound for.               Latitude. Longitude.    Day's
.ToCapeVirgin 1951m. ... — — — —         180
|         „     1792m.... 27°50's. 45°34'w.    179
„      1534m.... 30°39's. 48°00'w.    208
„      1328 m. ... 33°33's. 50° 48'w.    226
„          „      1082 m. ... 36°36's. 53° 29'W.    226
„         „       872m.... 39°40vs. 55°40'w.    211
„         „       755m.... 42°  0's. 58°19'w.    188
.       „          „        559m. ... 44°06's. 61°44'\v.    196
„          „        391m.... 46° 11'& 64°12'w.    168
„         „       194m. ... 49°28's. 65°43'w.   214
..Straits of Magellan  — —  194
.. Punta Arenas (Sandy Point)
.Straits of Magellan* 	
,.In Pacific, to Lota	
..To Lota 711m 48°25's. 76°31'w.    204
„      507 m   201
.,     330 m  42°05's. 76°18'w.    177
„      132 m   193
.. Anchored, Coronel Bay...
• •      «»        	
• •      ,,        	
,,         •	
,,         •	
.. Coronel and at Seat	
..AtSeaforEsquimalt    34°ll's. 74°44'w.    211
  30° 57'8. 76°57'w.    225
  27°44's. 79°03'w.    222
„          24°35's. 81°ll'w.    230
..                         „        ...... 21°29's. 83°39'w.    228
  18°15's. 85°37'w.   225
  15°34's. 88°03'w.    228
* Cape Virgin to Cape Pillar is 820 -miles.
ILeft Coronel at 2.45 p.m.
Earn WW^w^BtWyWgi
.Jan. 29.
.   1 30
•   ,, 31.
.Feb. 1.
.   1    2,
•   ,,    1
•   1    4,
.   „    5
•   i    6
•   I    7
•   1    8
\ i  9
•   „ 10
.   „ 11
.   | 12
.   „ 13
.   j H
■   „ 15
•   „ 16
I   ,, 17
•   I 18
•   ,, 19
Place at or bound for. Latitude.    Longitude.
.At Sea for Esquimalt ... 12°33's.    90°21'w.
| -   „•          9° 52' s.    92°39'w.
.,            7°02's.    95° 02' w.
    4°01's.    97°21'w.
    l°08's.    99°30'w.
    1°58'n. 101° 24'w.
„            5c01'n. 102° 58'w.
    8° 06'N. 104° 35'w.
 10°53'n. 106° 48'w.
  13°37'n. 108° 40'w.
  16°51'n. 109° 48'w.
|    j|      „          19° 46'N. 111° 38'w.
  22° 35'N. 113° 10'. w.
„ , 25° 25'N. 115° 30'w.
  28° 31'N. 117° 20'w.
„ „          31°21'n. 119°   5'w.
, 34° 08'N. 121° 28'w.
  37° 30'n. 122° 58'w.
  40° 28'N. 124° 36'w.
  43° 12'N. 124° 53'w.
„ „          46° 39'N. 124° 32'w.
.Anchored in Esquimalt Harbour, 9.20 a.m.
Each Total
Day's Miles
Bun. Bun.
227 9905
211 10116
219 10335
231 10566
218 10784
224 11008
206 11214
208 11422
212 11634
197 11831
205 12584
204 12708
190 12398
207 13105
217 13322
194 13516
206 13722
215 13937
*196 14133
180 14313
189 fi4502
*On the 16th, at noon (being short or coal), reduced our speed to 7 knots.
tTo Victoria, 163 miles.
Liverpool to Victoria, 14,665 miles in 78 days.
Average run (full steaming days) 1S8'4 miles—not reckoning 8 hours
40 minutes difference in time.     Average knots per hour, 7-8. VI.
Mabch 28th, 1891,
Left Wharf, New York, 7.30 a.m.
March 29 ...
,,      30 ...
Lat. 40° 43' n.       Long. 65° 34' w.
41° N.
57° 54' w.
Run 380 Miles.*
»»    348      ,,
From Sandy Hook.  [Left Liverpool 1 p.m.'Dec. 3rd. 1890.]
[Arrived at Esquimalt 9.20 a.m. Feb. 19th, 1891.]
Steam prom LIVERPOOL to
[14,665 Miles in 78 days,]
Capt. S. F. Scott,
1,805 Tons ; 200 Horse Power,
Has a considerable portion of her cargo engaged, and is
appointed to sail from Liverpool on or about
SATURDAY, the 15th NOVEMBER, 1890.
Has good accommodation for a limited number of
Saloon Passengers.    [Four went."]
For further particulars and rates of freight or passage
(cargo being taken by special agreement only), apply to
Messrs. G. 0. Dobell & Co., or to the Loading Brokers,
Chapel Walks, Liverpool,
And Water Street, Vancouver City.
Liverpool, Oct. 14, 1890.
A^feW^iy^l:^!)^^ .ipj$«*j*«??
op a
Left Liverpool 1 p.m.
Wednesday, Decembee, 3rd, 1890.
Foggy and calm. Two other passengers besides ourselves. Oapt. Scott extremely kind and attentive. Off
Holyhead 10 p.m.; rolling heavily.
Thursday, Dec. 4th.
Off Tuskar, 8.20. a.m.; fresh w. breeze ; big sea; decks
awash amidships. Very well to-day ; huge appetite. Ship
more shipshape to-day; only doing 9 knots. We have
three cabins, one on deck for my smoke room, one below
to sleep in, and one for Winnie's clothes,
Friday, Dec. 5th.
Run from Tusear 250 miles. Fine four-masted ship full
sail; sick passengers turned out.
Saturday, Dec 6th.
Rolling fearfully, very heavy swell, but fine. Run
200 miles ; fresh wind, e.s.e. at 10 p.m.
Sunday, Dec. 7th.
Awfully rough last night; ship pitching and rolling
fearfully; lightning.     Captain up all night.    Wind gone n
down this morning, but tremendous swell on.    Are going
via Madeira and the Canaries.
Monday, Dec. 8th.
Glorious day; fresh breeze right aft.     First tub this
To Madeira 425 miles.
Tuesday Deo.
Perfectly lovely day; quite calm, with cool head wind.
After breakfast a most extraordinary thing happened : a
seagull flew on to the quarter deck and we picked it up,
when it was violently sick. After staying on deck for a
few minutes it hopped over the side and flew away. 215
miles to Madeira.
The island looked
Winnie no
Putting up
Did not see
Wednesday, Dec. 10th.
Sighted Madeira after breakfast, and were abreast at
noon ; distance 18 miles.   Lovely day.
splendid.    Winnie very seedy.
Thursday, Dec. 11th.
Lovely day and quite calm ; very warm.
better: she nearly fainted after breakfast,
awnings to-day.    Off Palma all afternoon.
Friday, Dec. 12th.
Winnie better. Fairly in the n.e. Trades. Put out
fishing lines for Bonitos ; raining a little. In the afternoon passed a Pacific s.s. homeward bound : we signalled
our name and port, and she will report us on her arrival.
Saturday,. Dec 13th.
Lovely day. Fresh n.e. trade; in the tropics to-day.
Saw a small barque bound same way.
Sunday, Dec 14th.
Lovely day. 207 m. from Bona Vista. Cape Verde
Island at noon.
Monday, Dec 15th.
Capt.  Scott knocked down two firemen this morning,
JS^J^iSiH^ WI^BlifeJIIUiid J.Wyf.t?g?*g ^frtas^s^spp&if!
Crossing the Line.
one after the other. Lots of flying fish about; one came
on deck, and is before me now. Abreast Bona Vista at
noon. Left all the Islands on starboard hand. Winnie
bad headache this morning. Rotten rat in one of our
three state rooms.    Paid wine bill to date (16s.).
Tuesday, Dec 16th.
Fried flying fish for breakfast: they came on board last
night. Very hot to-day, but lovely breeze. Two of the
firemen are ill.    Run 208^ miles.
Wednesday, Dec 17th.
More flying fish for breakfast. Strong breeze and big
sea in afternoon.
Thursday, Dec 18th.
Tumbled about a good deal last night; heavy rain.
Passed a full-rigged four-master to-day under big spread
of canvas. Fresh breeze all day. Sighted another ship
this evening.    Changed to deck cabin to-day.
Friday, Dec 19th.
As we cross the Equator to-morrow morning, it was decided that Neptune should visit the ship to-night. So
about 9 p.m., Neptune and his wife (the Steward and Fred,
the Captain's son) were brought aft by the crew on their
carriage and were introduced to those who had not crossed
the Line before. These people had to be either shaved or
stand drinks. Forester and young Tommy chose the
latter, but the four or five of the crew, with the exception
of the carpenter, who stood, who had not crossed, were
first of all lathered with some filthy mixture, then shaved,
and on being asked their names and answering, the filthy
shaving brush was shoved down their throats, and were
finally pulled over backwards and thoroughly soused in a
tub of water. It was great fun. All the crew were stood
grog and there was dancing, etc.
Saturday, Dec 20th.
Crossed the Line at 11 a.m. Captain put a hair over
glass of telescope and made Tommy look through it. 4
Off ParuMba.
Upon being asked if he saw the Line, he said ''Yes!" and.
got quite excited. He has entered it in his log and firmly
$*eiieved he saw it.
Sunday, Deo. 21st.
Fine breeze again to-day. We had lunch on the quarter
deck ; their is a table on purpose. We passed no fewer
than three barques to-day, all going same way as ourselves.
I was rather surprised at our passing them at all, as there
has been a spanking breeze all day and they should have
overtaken us.    They were all three quite closo to.
Monday, Dec 22nd.
Lovely day, as usual; strong s.e. trade. Passed two
ships close to, both homeward bound. One of the pigs
went mad to-day and jumped overboard. The big deer-
hound (consigned to A. Gk Thynne, probably some relation
of Lord Bath) and the donkeys are getting on famously.
Passed within about 60 miles, Noronho Island, yesterday.
It is used as a Brazilian convict settlement. Off Parahiba
at noon to-day. We are now using the coasting charts.
Winnie did a lot of washing to-day and got roasted. Saw
a large Albatross to-day for the first time.
Tuesday, Dec 23rd.
Heavy rain this morning, but it has turned out a lovely
day as usual. Passed a large three-masted schooner at
breakfast time. As there are no bitters to be had on
board, I use Winnie's medicine, viz., quinine and iron.
Wednesday, Dec 24th.
Lovely day. Saw a steamer in the distance this morning.
Three geese, four fowls, and two turkeys were killed this
morning for to-morrow's festivities. After dinner, all the
crew off duty came aft, and we had a very pleasant evening,
Lots of very good songs by the sailors Forester played
the banjo and sang very well. Had some dancing. Captain Scott stood liquor to everybody, including passengers
We had heaps of whiskey and the proceedings did not
closeHtill after one o'clock.   The men gave three cheers for
^^Mijju.,j[,uoagggg^ fW^t^W^
Off Cape Frio, Brazil.
Mrs. Scott, and afterwards three for Winnie.    Gave dirty
little Tom Wainwright, whiskey and port mixed.
Christmas Day—Thursday, Dec 25th.
Quite the hottest day yet; 89 degrees in the shade. Light
wind ; dead aft; must be awfully hot down the stokehole.
Saw some dolphins chasing some flying fish. I forgot to
mention that after lunch yesterday, we ranged up within
hailing distance of a barque, bound same way as ourselves.
After some signalling we got alongside her and commenced
conversation. She was a remarkably pretty little ship.
The 1 Mary Adelaide " of Liverpool, bound from Antwerp
to Valparaiso. Her skipper got awfully excited at us
speaking him, and wished us a merry Xmas and a good
voyage, over and over again. She was 38 days out (very
good) and was 640 tons.
Friday, Dec 26th.
Saw a steamer this morning. Fine strong breeze and a
little cooler. Steward got an awful blowing up from the
captain for stealing liquor. He has. had all control of it
taken from him.
Saturday, Dec 27th.
Very strong breeze; luckily behind us. Loom of the land
all morning; and all noon we were abreast Cape Frio ;
distant 22 miles. Our first glimpse of South America.
We got a good view in spite of the distance.
Ship's Position 522° 57' W.; 41° 42'.   Distant 22 miles.
We are very lucky to have hit it off so well; the chronometer is exactly right. After breakfast we put out a long
fishing line, and it had not been out five minutes before
we hooked a fine dolphin, which we got aboard all right.
gggsBgsgsgggg I
River Plate.
Seven pounds in weight and most beautifully coloured.
We had it for dinner to-night and it was excellent and a
great treat. We hooked another and larger one immediately afterwards, but lost it as we were hauling it up the
side.    Shall be abreast of " Rio " to-night.
Sunday, Dec 28th.
Very heavy head sea, which greatly stopped us; run
only 180 miles ; every sign of a gale to-night, but fortunately we have escaped it. Much cooler. Passed two
steamers to-night, one of them a very large one.
Monday, Dec 29th.
Lovely day, with nice cool breeze. Still tremendously
heavy head swell, which shows no sign of going down.
Run 179 miles. Passed a sailing ship who signalled
for longitude, which we gave her. This morning we
got a large piece of. tin, and after shaping it somewhat
like a fish, fastened it on to the hook on the fishing line
and then called Tom, who rushed up and frantically hauled
at it till he nearly got it aboard ; he was properly spoofed.
Tuesday, Dec 30th.
Blew pretty fresh last night but fortunately aft. This
morning beautifully fine. Passed a brigantine close hauled. 1 Ludo I is in great request, we play nearly every
night.    Run 210 miles.    Distant from land, 110 miles.
Wednesday, Dec 31st. *
Lovely day; wind still aft. A very pretty brigantine^
passed close across our bows this morning, hailing from*
" Rio." She was going along splendidly. Captain stood
liquor again to-night. We saw the New Year in, and at
midnight they blew the whistle and rang all the bells.
Saw a large whale and a school of porpoises. Perfectly
calm New Year.
Thursday, January 1st, 1891.
Saw a shark this morning. At noon we were right in
the middle of the estuary of the River Plate. Very heavy
rain this morning, but turned out very fine and quite calm.
Hff^PQP^ffyFyPjK^sc^g At Sea for Cape  Virgin.
Saw a huge albatross this morning. The water is quite
discoloured to day, and is brackish, although we are one
or two hundred miles from the river, proper. Phosphorus
simply wonderful to-night (11 p.m.). Quite cold ; glorious
Friday, Jan. 2nd.
Ship was stopped this morning for an hour to adjust compasses, by which we lost about 12 miles. Saw a shoal of
block fish sporting near to the ship. They are a species
of whale and about four times the size of porpoises. It is
much cooler to day ; the water this morning bitterly cold.
872 miles from Cape Virgin. Sea still discoloured. Saw
a very large whale close to ship. Came on to blow with
very thick fog; whistle still going when we turned in.
Saturday, Jan. 3rd.
Fog continued till 1 a.m. to-day. Fine morning with
wind off the land. Run only 189J miles; strong current-
against us. This afternoon the engines were stopped for
an hour to pack cylinders, during which time we tried
fishing, as, of course, we lay motionless, but without success.
Very calm this evening. I won two games | Ludo " which
is still very much in request. Two-thirds of the potatoes
on board have suddenly gone quite rotten.
Sunday, Jan. 4th.
Pheugh ! Isn't it blowing; wind dead ahead and seas
like mountains. It has been the same all day, but to-night
has moderated a good deal. She has proved herself a
splendid sea boat, though, of course, she has taken dozens
of green seas over forward: the third mate and three sailors
when making fast the headsails this morning, were buried
in a green sea. They must have had six feet of water
over them. The third mate bruised his face rather badly.
Charlie and Fred were washed out of one of the dunnekins
on the foredeck. Winnie lay in bed nearly all day, but
got up for dinner. Saw a waterspout in the distance this
evening. Fine sunset. Barometer down a little ; ship
rolling rather heavily; heavy swell from the southard;
not dark till nearly 10 p.m. 8
Cape Virgin.
Monday, Jan. 5th.
The gale quite spent itself last night and we had a quiet
night, though I believe she plunged a good deal. Lovely
morning but very cold; the water in my tub was bitter.
Loom of the land all morning. Run only 168 miles. Did
not sight land after all. Mrs. Scott rather seedy to-day ;
she has not appeared. Looks like wind or rain to-night;
a most angry looking sunset; most wonderful colouring.
Tuesday, Jan. 6th.
(Thirty-four days out.)
Fortunately the angry sky last night did not turn into
anything, at anyrate for us, and this morning is beautifully fine.   The water is covered with tide rips and is a
very light colour, showing a shoal.    The remaining pig
was very ill this^morniug, presumably from cold ;  so it
was promptly killed, to " save its life."    I hope we shall
not all be poisoned.    Only 194 miles from Cape Virgin at
noon   Passed close to a large number of huge albatrosses
floating on the water.
Wednesday, Jan. 7th.
The Captain called me at 8 a.m. to see the land and
Cape Virgin in the distance. It is very low land and most
inhospitable looking. We gave Cape Virgin a wide berth
and fairly entered the Straits at one o'clock. The morning was beautifully fine, but the glass very low indeed
(29* 2"), and about 2 p.m. a heavy black sky appeared
to windward. At 3 p.m. the storm burst in a perfect
hurricane of wind and rain, but little sea. Very thick;
are going dead slow as we cannot see the land. It cleared
up about six o'clock and we proceeded to the first narrows.
Just at the commencement of the narrows we saw a little
settlement of houses, name not given on chart, a fine cutter lying at anchor off it. Fresh roast pork for dinner,
very good. I carved, as none of the officers could come
down. The land is awfully desolate. These narrows are
less than two miles broad. Very low land. 10-30 p.m.—
Most lovely night but very cold. The settlement we passed
was " Wood's Farm;" he is English and has a large sheep
farm there.
wi|!ti.|.it'.- jjl'a i ^myy*53ss
3»3Kr*yt»?»yi!>Muaa Sandy Point,
Thursday, Jan. 8 th.
The Captain kept on all night and did not let go his
anchor till we were off Sandy Point at 7-30 a.m. When I
went on deck I was surprised to find this such a large
place. The red-roofed wooden houses look quite picturesque with the dark hills behind to set them off. The
population is 2,000, of which some 400 are English.
There were two Chilian men-of-war in the harbour, one
of them the Admirante Lynch, just arrived from Birkenhead. Brand new Torpedo boat. She left Birkenhead a
month before we did, and as she only arrived the day before yesterday, has had a pretty long passage. There was
also one German steamer, and a perfect little schooner
yacht belonging to the British Consul here, who is a German and keeps a store ; a very decent fellow. This place
is gradually improving and has been quite" quiet since the
mutiny of the convicts in 1877. We lay a long way from
the landing, nearly two miles, and fished for gulls till
lunch time; after which we all went ashore in the port
cutter, the starboard one leaked so badly that we could not
go in it, and the one we went in was so bad that we had
to bale out continually to keep the water down. When
we got to the rickety tumble down pier, we were met by
Mr. Braun, a German butcher, anxious to supply us with
meat, and from whom eventually the Captain bought a
supply. He acted as our guide all day. Our first visit
was to the Captain of the Port, who asked us in and regaled us with cider. We then went to the British Consul's
store and Post-office, where I posted two letters, one to
Phatty and one to Morton. Eventually we all went to
Lehi's, a Swedish carpenter's house, to tea. He has a
very nice little place, and an English cockney wife. Conservatory, three horses, cow, etc. etc. There was a well
educated Englishman living with him, named Lewis, who
has been out here and in the Falklands for years, money
lending; seventy years old; he was delighted to see ue.
After this, we went again to Braun's shop and bought
Huanaco* Skins. I got a beauty for 30s. They are
brought in periodically by the Indians, and are much
*Pronouncecl Wanacka. WW^k
Straits oj Magellan.
prized, as only the young calves of a week or ten days old
are killed ; after this age the fur becomes woolly. Sandy
Point is a very tumble down place, with only one decently
paved street; an air of neglect everywhere. The climate,
however, is very good, and the winter months the finest;
never much snow and never extremly cold. There is good
sport to be had within one day inland—geese, ducks, snipe,
and small bears. Did not see any Indians. Enjoyed one day
ashore very much and returned to the ship for a late dinner at 9-30 p.m. Captain Scott sold the big lifeboat he
had brought out, to the carpenter, for £24. She is a
splendid boat: it was a great job getting her into the water.
Two more screw steamers came in this evening from E. and
W., the one from W. a Frenchman, making a hideous
noise with his syren whistle.
Friday, Jan. 9th.
Fresh beef for breakfast; delicious. Snow on the
mountains. Left 2-30 a.m. Cape Forward, most southern
point of South America, 9 a.m. It is a fine abrupt cliff
clothed with wood. Passed wreck of Pacific Mail boat,
" Cordittera," wrecked about 18 months ago. She is
broken right in two, but is visible above water. Most
magnificent scenery all the way. Two Indian canoes
came off from an island at noon, in spite of the sea, to buy
and sell beaver skins ; but the Captain did not stop as he
is anxious to get out to-night. I threw one of them a tin
with tobacco in it. 4-30 : are just passing a magnificent
glacier which reaches down to the water's edge. Magnificent scenery ; wonderful peaks and crags. Another canoe
came off and one of the biscuits I threw hit one of the
men; he roared with laughter and delight. The Indians
have no clothing beyond a very thin shirt; how they live
in this cold I don't know. Expect to be clear of the Straits
about 1 a.m.
Saturday, Jan. 10th.
The Captain called me at. 12-15 a.m. to see Cape Pillar,
which we were just abreast. It was still twilight and I
could make it out quite distinctly. I soon went to sleep
again, and when I awoke, it was to find ourselves in the
3633^^39*S9S At Sea for Lota.
teeth of a Pacific " Norther," which veered round to the
n.n.w. and has continued there all day. By Jove ! How
it has been blowing, and no signs of abating now (10 p.m.)
But we must expect this weather here. Numbers of albatrosses Lave been following us all day; most magnificent
ones ; now and then hovering right over the quarter-deck,
not fifteen feet above our heads. I must try and shoot
some to-morrow. Beef at Sandy Point was only 2^-d. a lb.,
and the sheep the Captain bought only 16/, and it is a huge
one. Winnie rather sick and Forester very bad. No
sights taken; too thick; Lota about 1,200 miles distant
at noon. Distance from land about 60 miles. Fresh gale,
n.w. to n.n.w. ; heavy beam sea. Fore trysail, fore staysail, and fore topmast staysail.  Ship behaving beautifully.
Sunday, Jan. 11th.
Very strong head wind, at times amounting to gale,
with very bad confused sea; ship rolling about as badly
as she possibly can. I shot four magnificent albatrosses
to day, but only managed to pick up one, a beauty measuring 10 feet from tip to tip ; the other three fell into the
water and were of course lost. The fourth I shot standing
under the bridge and he fell stone dead on to the deck;
I'm going to try and get the skeleton of his head. There
have been hundreds about all day; we tried fishing for
them but we were going too fast. One of the birds I shot
was a brown one, and I think, if anything, larger than the
one I bagged. The latter is hanging up over the after
hatch to give the bill a chance of drying. By Jove ! it is
a tremendous size ! Run to-day 204 miles. Splendid roast
mutton for dinner. ' Forester still very sick.
Monday, Jan. 12th.
Heavy gale from the north all day, with most confused
sea, about as bad as any I have ever seen. Ship rolling
and plunging most uncomfortably. Have fled to our
maindeck cabin to sleep to-night. Wind changed a little
to the westward at sundown and moderated a little. One
of the quartermasters (Costello) has skinned my albatross,
but has broken one of the pinions in doing so, a great pity,
I valued these more than the skin, for pipe stems.   Distance At Sea for Lota,
from Sandy Point to Lota, 1,162 miles.    Wind moderated
somewhat to-night; fore and aft sails set.   Very heavy sea.
Tuesday, Jan. 13th.
Run 117m.; to Lota 330 m. Still heavy sea but wind
has much moderated. Strong breeze. At last we are approaching civilization once more ; there is a lighthouse on
our starboard bow though distant about 60 m. Forester
appeared this morning looking very shaky. Hope to get
to Lota Thursday morning at daybreak. I shot two more
huge albatrosses this afternoon, brown breasts, but failed
to pick either of them up. The first fell just about a yard
beyond the taffrail and the second hit the awning rail in
falling. I thought it was sure to fall on board, but the
ship happened to give a heavy roll in the wrong direction,
so I missed it. They were both beauties; great pity.
The sailors eat the one I bagged for their dinner to-da}\
Blowing very hard again to-night. Began " Ludo " again
Wednesday, Jan. 14th
Still blowing awfully hard, with tremendous seas and
thick weather. However it has cleared up this afternoon,
and this evening is beautifully fine. New moon, but a tremendous westerly swell. By Jove! we are rolling, it is
hard work to keep our feet. Just as we sat down to lunch
the second officer came down and announced land on
the weather bow. This turned out to be the Island of
Mocha, and when the weather lifted shortly afterwards we
found ourselves between this Island and the mainland; both
highlands *, the former a fine island, eight miles long by
three broad ; uninhabited, but having fine water and trees.
It turned out a beautiful afternoon and we kept land in
sight till dark. Only 60 miles from Lota at 9 p.m. Saw
several small coasters tossing about, and some tremendous
breakers, three miles off. Well, we have had a time of
it \ Nothing but the worst of weather, ever since leaving
Cape Pillar; hope we shan't see any more of it.
Thursday, Jan. 15th.
Anchored here at 845 this morning, after such a rolling
gsssssssss® :^m^^*M?fm^'
Coronel Bay.
about. Winnie could not sleep at all. We are at Coronel,
not Lota. There is a train from here to Conception, a
large town ; distant 15 miles. After we had anchored, the
health officer came off, and after a lot of fuss, would not
let us land, as the Captain's papers were not quite correct.
There are several steamers here, two of them the Gulf
Line from Liverpool, sister ships. Very warm here to-day.
We are quite close to the shore. The scenery is not up to
much. We are busy painting the hull of the ship a bright
red. As usual in most foreign ports, there were five
British steamers to three others (the latter of different
nationalities) here to-day. Although the health officer
who was here this morning, promised to return at eleven,
he has not been yet (10-30), so we have not been able to
land, any of us! The Captain is very annoyed at it. A
fine Chilian man-of-war has been cruising about all day
and to-night J as anchored close astern of us; probably
watching us, as there are so many British ships in the
harbour. Lovely night. The Railway Station is just opposite the ship.    Lota is just round the next point.
Friday, Jan. 16th.
Quite an eventful day. There were no signs of the Captain of the Port coming off, but shortly after breakfast the
Captain of the Gulf Liner lying nearest to us, sent off a
boat with an officer to tell us that there was a serious
kickup at Valparaiso—Navy versus Army—and that no
one was allowed to land at all or buy anything. They—
the Gulf Liners—had been here eight days waiting for
coal; but though there is plenty of it close to, they dare
not send it off for fear the man-of-war, which is constantly
popping in and out, were to catch them; in which case, she
would capture the lighters and enlist the men. They did
begin coaling this afternoon, when all of a sudden round
the point comes the man-of-war full steam, and it was
ludicrous to see the lighters hurriedly leave the ship and
scull for the shore. The Captain of the Port had just put
off to board the Pacific Mail, but he hurried back all
haste. When the " Galicia," the Pacific Mail boat, anchored, she fired a gun to announce the arrival of the mails. H
No sooner had she done so, when the man-of-war who was
just behind her, fired a blank shot to prohibit her landing
the mails. As soon as she had anchored she sent a boat
to the Pacific Mail boat and took off the Coronel Mails on
board. The man-of-fight left the harbour at sundown.
Three more ships came in to-day, all for coal; so the little
bay is quite full of big ships. The Captain had an awful
row with the sailors to-night and smashed one of them up.
We are now painted a bright red all over. There have
been a lot of people shot in Valparaiso.
Saturday, Jan. 17th.
No man-of-war this morning, so coaling has been going
on briskly all day, though they have not yet come to us.
After lunch we all went ashore in one of the ship's boats;
there was a high surf running on the beach. We first
went to Mr. Taylor's house, where we left Frida and Mrs.
Scott. We then went to the British Consul, whose office
was a miserable place in a coalyard. He was a very jovial
old German, and after palaver he took us to see a steam
launch he is building. We then went to a Pub, and Forester and I had a game of American Billiards, which I
won, and thence to Mr. Taylor's, where we had drinks, and
then on board. Horse hire is very cheap here, three dollars per diam, equal to six shillings. They offered us a
huge fish quite 40 lbs. in weight for two dollars. We
bought a lot of fruit, etc. The Captain of the Port sent
a manifesto to-night warning us against the dangers of the
Revolution, and told us to be ready to proceed to sea at a
moment's notice ; but how we are to do so without coal?
This is not much of a place and the natives are very dirty.
Provisions are very expensive. Lota is 20 miles and Conception one hour by train. Fresh meat for dinner of
which I partook two lbs. Cannot wire our arrival to England as all telegraphic communication is shut off. A great
nuisance! Lovely day. The Pacific Mail boat " Galicia "
will be very late getting to Liverpool, she is being delayed
here. Captain and Mrs. Scott are dining on board the
" Gulf of Guinea " to-night; her Captain is a very decent
fellow, Livingstone by name.
2SSSB Coronel.
Sunday, Jan. 18th.
They commenced coaling the ship this morning at 6 a.m.,
but at 10 a.m. the Captain of the Port came rowing frantically round all the ships, shouting that the Esmeralda
was coming It was funny to see the lighter men jump
into their lighters and pull with all their might and
main for the shore. Sure enough directly afterwards the
man-of-war came steaming in full speed round the Point
and anchored a ship's length from us. All was quiet for
some time, till suddenly we heard firing on shore; the two
rival parties had met at last and the rebellion had commenced. In almost less than no time, the Esmeralda had
run out her guns and began bombarding the town, at the
same time firing her quick firing gun from the foretop.
She kicked up a great noise, and quickly all sound of
firing on shore ceased. The Esmeralda then hove up her
anchor and moved a little further away from us (she was
unpleasantly close) and began firing at the Railway Bridge
to try and destroy it. This she failed to do, though she
used her heavy guns. The Fort on shore responded in a
feeble way and sent two balls under her stern, but did not
hit her. Shortly after this she got under way and steamed
to Lota, which she attacked ; we could hear the firing very
distinctly as the place is only seven miles off. When she
had finished there she steamed out to sea and had not returned at 10-30 p.m., so has probably gone to Valparaiso.
All is quiet now, but of course we can't go ashore All the
natives bolted to the hills—we could see them running.
When we shall get our coal is a problem. Pacific Mail
boat still here.
Monday, Jan. 19th.
Coaling commenced early, but about 10. a.m. the Esmeralda steamed round the point and off scooted the barges.
The man-of-war did not anchor, however, but steamed on
towards Lota and shortly afterwards went out to sea. We
did not go ashore to-day. Captain Livingstone, of the s.s.
|| Gulf of Guinea," and a Mr. Cathcart, passenger on her,
came off to us to dinner, and we passed a very jolly evening,
dancing, etc.    Calvert played the. violin well.     Captain i6
Leaving Coronel.
Livingstone, who is an extremely nice fellow, is only my
age (27), rather young I should think to command such a
large ship.    He has asked us to breakfast to-morrow.
Tuesday, Jan. 20th.
The gig of the " Gulf of Guinea " came for us at 8-30
and off we all went with the exception of Tommy Wain-
wright, who wasn't asked She is a very fine cargo boat
with splendid saloon accommodation, electric light, etc. ;
she is only two years old. We sat down to a rare good
breakfast, heaps of all sorts of things ; chops, beef stakes,
grilled fowl and ham, etc., etc. Afterwards Capt. Livingstone showed us over the ship, and then we all went ashore,
calling at our ship, en route, to pick up Tommy. We
loafed away the day, strolling about, etc., and at three had
ham and eggs at the only decent hotel in the town, and
that is not saying much. Shortly afterwards Frida and I
went off to the ship, but the others did not and we had to
wait for our dinner till 8-15 p.m., and then Frida and I
had it by ourselves. The others arrived about 9-30 and
had been in a nice fix; they could not get a boat for love or
money, as no communication is allowed with the shore
after sundown. However, at last the Captain of the Port
lent his boat, though he would not send any men, and we
had to tow his boat back.
Wednesday Jan. 21st.
As I was pumping some water into the bath this morning,
to my surprise I pumped up a young octopus. We kept
him in the bath all day. It was most curious to watch him.
When he was touched, he would eject an inky substance
that entirely hid him. I threw him overboard this evening. We have shipped four extra hands here, two firemen
and two sailors. At last we are off ; at 2-45 we weighed
anchor and proceeded to sea. The Captain went ashore
after breakfast and brought off two more hands and provisions, etc., and at 2-45 p.m., we weighed anchor and
slowly steamed out of Coronel harbour. The " Isis " had
left before lunch, so we were the last ship in, with the exception of the Pacific Mail boat which arrived last night.
Fine strong s.w. wind.    We soon began to roll merrily.
ws^mj^^isas^u^^s. Chased by the If Esmeralda."
When about 12 miles out, we sighted a steamer bearing
down on us. When within hailing distance she enquired
through a speaking trumpet where we were bound for
and we replied British Columbia and dipping our ensign,
proceeded. This small steamer was one that the Esmeralda
had seized, and which we eventually found out, had turned
into her tender. We could see the Esmeralda some miles
off, lying under the lee of Santa Maria Island with steam
up. What was our surprise shortly afterwards to see her
under weigh and steering for us, instead of going to meet
her tender. Conjecture was rife as to whether she was
chasing us or not; however, our doubts were soon dispelled for she came nearer and nearer, though we were
steaming 11 knots. When she was about a mile astern
of us she hoisted a signal which the chief officer mistook
for I heavy weather expected;" it really meant | heave to
at once." Through this mistake on we gaily steamed, unfortunately without our ensign flying. Suddenly we saw
a cloud of smoke issue from the man-of-war's side, and
bang! went a gun ordering us to stop. The Captain,
however, being asleep in his room on we steamed and began to hoist our sails when bang ! went another gun and
then luckily for us (for the ship was close up to us and
would certainly have fired ball into us if we hadn't stopped,
as the third gun means fight) the chief telegraphed " stop
her " and we lay' rolling about and awaiting events. We
hoisted our answering signal and the Esmeralda came slowly
past us, crossed our bows, and lay to, to leeward. We
fully expected to be ordered back to Santa Maria Island
to discharge our coal and sell provisions; fortunately
this was not the case as the captain had left his bond with
the shore authorities for 9,000 dollars not to have any
dealings with the fleet. In a few minutes a boat was put
off, in spite of the heavy sea, from the Esmeralda and
shortly a smart boat manned by an officer and four men
came under our lee and watching his opportunity the officer climbed up the rope ladder on to our deck, and shook
hands with the Captain; they then both went into the lat-
ter's (cabin. The officer had his sword and a revolver
strapped to his belt. Now, as it happened, I was the
cause of all this.   The commander of the Esmeralda had
V w
Chased by the SI Esmeralda."
heard, through spies on shore, that there was a British
officer on board the " West Indian," and as two British
officers had deserted the Chilian fleet and had joined the
President, known also to be in, or in the neighbourhood
of Lota, it was supposed that one of them at least was
trying to escape the country on board our ship. Therefore
she had been lying under Santa Maria for two days waiting to intercept us as we went out. Captain Scott ex-
planed to the officer who boarded us that he had an officer
on board, namely, myself, and satisfied him that he had
not got the rebels ; upon which the young gentleman, who
by the bye, spoke most excellent English ,after accepting
some cigars, departed, and proceeded to his own ship. I
must mention that while he was on board us, the Esmeralda
kept cruising round and round us and at one time came so
close that one could almost have jumped from one vessel
to the other. In fact she was so dangerously close that it
seemed when she crossed our bows that we must inevitably
have collided had not Mr. Lock (the chief officer) sprung
to the telegraph and ordered full speed astern; even then
our bow only just cleared his stern. Fancy! especially as
there was such a high sea running. We then proceeded
on our course. The Esmeralda looked magnificient plunging and rolling about. She must steam quite 18 knots to
have overtaken us so easily. We were all glad to get
away from this civil war ridden country. The naval officer
told us that the President always was behaving atrociously
and had proclaimed himself Dictator, though half the army
had deserted to the fleet. They expect the finale to come
off soon, but unless affairs settle themselves very promptly,
the Fleet are going to bombard all the principle seaports,
beginning at Iquique, where the mobilisation will take
place. Big sea to-night; ship rolling heavily ; shipping
water fore and aft.
From Coronel Bay on a sunshiny day
We started for British Columbia ;
When we got outside, to our great surprise,
We were chased by the Esmeralda.
Now our boilers were clear, of their ashes rid,
And eleven knots was what we did,
And we flew along, with the pressure of steam,
But the man-of-war went at least eighteen, jm^pi
Robinson Crusoe Island.
Thus our efforts were fruitless to run away,
And we thought we should have a tribute to pay—
Or at least to be forced some days to delay ;
So the ladies, below, we persuaded to go, as in a few minutes
the worst we should know. |j|||
For a white cloud of smoke from her side did come,
And we heard the report of a heavy, big, gun.
Then bold Mr. Lock to the telegraph sprang,
I Stand by !"    " Ease her !"    " Stop her !" he rang.
Though the sea was running high a small boat we did espy,
From the Esmeralda to our leeside slowly rowing ;
In a short time she had come, and on the bottom rung
Of our ladder stepped the officer commanding.
Our fears quite soon abated, when the officer had stated
That two rebels they did anxiously await;
And that spies on shore had told them that on board the ship
West Indian,
Were two officers attempting to escape.
So greatly disappointed at not finding those he wanted
And accepting from our Captain some cheroots,
He from our side departed with "good-byes" from all our party,
And our Captain went below to play his flute.
We then on our course proceeded, quite convinced that if we
Could have blown the Esmeralda to small bits ;
For our solitary cannon, lying on its rusty waggon,
Might have done terrific damage—if we'd hit.
Thursday, Jan. 22nd.
Fine, strong s.w. wind, right aft. Ship rolling very
heavily; some difficulty in getting our meals. We had
averaged 11*4 knots an hour since we left Lota. Our run
in a straight line from Lota was 211 miles, but this did not
include our detour, or our detention, by the Esmeralda.
Lovely afternoon. Frida very sick last night. We were
abreast Island Juan Fernandez at noon, alias Robinson
Crusoe Island, where Alex. Selkirk really had his adventures ; sixty miles distant. Considering the warm weather
and the distance from the Horn, quite a number of Albatrosses were following the ship to-day.
Friday, Jan. 23rd.
Not nearly so much wind to-day, though there is still a
heavy westerly swell.     There are still some albatrosses &&EBSS$fflMSi
St. Ambrose and St. Felix.
following us. The Mother Carey's chickens are very in-
teresting to watch, skimming about in the wake of the
ship. Every other second they touch the water with one
foot or the other, but rarely settle down in it; they are
not much larger than swallows. Looks like rain this
evening. Some one stole the bacon for the cabin breakfast
out of the galley this morning, so the Captain, as punishment, has stopped all fresh meat for the men; rather
rough on them, but all the better for us, as there is only a
limited supply.
Saturday, Jan. 24th.
Fine calm morning, but with heavy rain clouds in the
distance. Sailors still setting up rigging. Winnie rather
seedy this morning. When we set our course on leaving
Coronel, it was to have run right between two small islands,
St. Felix and St. Ambrose, and sure enough this afternoon,
St. Ambrose hove in sight a little on our starboard bow;
awfully good navigation as they are little more than rocks.
There is no water on St. Felix. They are sandy and
covered with sea birds; myriads of their eggs are to be
found in their season. It is full moon to-night and a
glorious evening; wind right astern; the ship almost on an
even keel. After leaving these islands, the first land we
shall see will be Southern California.     It is about 5,650
miles from Lota to Victoria.   Passed between St. Ambrose
and St. Felix at 11 p.m.     Awfully desolate places.     St. At Sea.
Ambrose is 1,700 feet high. They are only 11 miles apart.
Got very good view of them. There is a pond of water on
the summit of St. Ambrose, according to the Pacific Directory, but none on St. Felix. Saw a sailing ship this
evening bound west; she was bearing right down on us,
but it became too dark to see her, when she was close to.
They are few and far between about here.
Sunday, Jan. 25th.
Glorious morning, no sea ; just arrived in the s.e. trades.
About eleven o'clock we saw a booby bird flying round the
ship, and in a few minutes it alighted on the quarter-deck
awning, we could easily have caught it, if we had left it
alone for a few minutes, as almost directly they alight they
go to sleep. As it was I stood a couple of yards from it
and we stared steadily at each other for some moments.
They bungled so in trying to catch it, that it just managed
to escape. Mrs. Scott very seedy to-day; caught a bad
Monday, Jan. 26th.
Another fine day. A smart shower came on in the afternoon. The Captain gave me a lesson in navigation this
afternoon and I m getting on famously. They are all busy
painting up the.ship; she is beginning to look much
smarter. The fresh meat went bad yesterday, and it was
worse to-night. Winnie did a lot of washing to-day and
of course overheated herself. We were 4,741 miles from
Cape Flatbry at noon to-day.    Very warm below.
Tuesday, Jan. 27th.
Showery all day, with very strong s.e. trade ; quite unusual weather for these parts. We have all been making
poetry, and some that Forester read out had some allusion
to Tommy. At this he took offence and at lunch time he
came out with some of his own. We fairly roared at it.
There was not the slightest attempt at rhyme, but it was
nothing but a string of insulting abuse at Forester ; I was
quite surprised that he took it so well; I felt like kicking
the little brute as it was. Rather stormy night but fortunately the wind is behind us, so it is all the better. agra
At Sea.
Wednesday, Jan. 28th.
Fine bright morning. Have been working at navigation all day and am getting on famously. Saw some flying
fish to-day; hope some will come on board for to-morrow's
breakfast. Saw two bosun birds flying round the ship;
pure white all over, even their entire wings.
Thursday, Jan. 29th.
Lovely day ; very warm. Frida very seedy this morning
but pulled herself together after lunch and is all right this
evening. We were about abreast of Callao at lunch time.
Run 227 miles. Tommy Wainwright has been awfully sat
upon to-day, by the Captain and chief officer; serve him
right. We keep getting covered with paint; it is everywhere ; not only on deck, but in the cabins
s.e. trade.
Still strong
Friday, Jan.
beautiful day.
Again a most beautiful day. Winnie much better.
Run only 211 miles; bad coal. Frightfully hot. Saw
some bosun birds. Thermometer got up to 87 degrees in
the shade. " Ludo " still in great request. They have
been condensing water for the last few days, and the consequence is that it is difficult to get any cold water to
drink ; awfully hard on the firemen.
Saturday, Jan. 31st.
Awf ufly hot. The ship looks ever so much better now
they have painted her up. They have not been able to
touch the hull yet as it has been so rough. Run 220 miles.
Two bosun birds have been about the ship all afternoon.
Ought to cross the equator on Monday. One of the firemen is laid up.
Sunday, February 1st.
Heavy rain early this morning. Ham and haddocks for
breakfast and Chicago corned beef for lunch. These items
represent our greatest luxuries in the way of food, and I
can tell you, we do them good justice. The s.e. trade is
still with us and is helping us along well.   Our run to-day
m 5&S:
Off the Galapajoo Islands.
was 230 miles, very good journey for us. Roast fowls
and green peas for dinner. Sky very much overcast tonight.
Monday, Feb. 2nd.
(Grossed Equator.)
Frightfully hot to-day; the little there is is right aft,
and the consequence is that the smoke goes straight up in
the air and the sparks straight down, so that the bridge
awning and the boat covers are full of holes, burnt right
through them. We are off the Galapajoo Islands to-day,
distant about 500 miles. Heaps of flying fish about. As
I was walking aft from the bridge this afternoon I noticed
something white falling through the smoke on to the deck.
On going up to it I found it was a beautiful bo'sun bird,
which had evidently been half suffocated by the smoke.
We picked him up and carefully examined him. They
are most beautifully marked with very large eyes, and a
most curious thin long red feather sticking out a long way
beyond its tail. They can't stand, and their wet feet are
soft and quite black. We threw him up in the air eventually and he flew away. Will cross the Equator about 7
Tuesday, Feb. 3rd.
In the doldrums to-day, and no mistake. Perfectly calm
sea, with not a ripple on it. About 10 a.m. the 3rd officer
reported two turtles close to the ship forward; from this
time till 2 p.m. we passed hundreds of them, some brushing
against the ship's sides, others some distance off, and all
of them fast asleep. We tried several ways to catch them
but failed to do so, though we hauled some up in the
hammock clean out of the water, unfortunately the hammock capsized, and it fell back again. Several more we
nearly but not quite caught, though we let down the gangway ladder, to catch them as they came past. Dozens of
them we ran down or pushed against. They were all so
fast asleep that they only woke up when the ship touched
them. Such beauties they were: it was so tantalizing to
watch them. Mrs. Scott tried to hook one, and the heavy
hook fell right on its back but did not wake it; another m
Off Gallezo Island.
got foul of the screw, and it was funny to see it puffing
and blowing afterwards. Very heavy rain clouds all round
us all day; a breeze sprang up after dinner. Just after
lunch we got an elaborate apparatus ready to catch some of
the turtles, and felt quite sure of doing so, as the Captain
had slowed down the ship for the purpose. Of course
they all disappeared!
Wednesday, Feb. 4th.
In the n.e. trades this morning ; blowing fresh. Rained
heavily last night: it came through into our cabin. Saw
a.small waterspout yesterday evening about six miles off.
We passed an island yesterday, and perhaps its vicinity
accounted for the numbers of turtle we saw. This island
is marked on my chart as | Gallezo Island;" but according
to the N. Pacific Directory it is thus described:—
Jallego Island (Whabe's Report) Lat. 1° 48' N.
Otherwise unknovm.
Long. 104° 8' W.
so it is probably mythical.  "Duncan Island" (also marked
on my chart), we should also have passed close to to-day ;
we did not, however, sight any land.    According to above
Directory, it is thus described :—
Duncan Island (Whabe's Report) 6° N. 106° W.   Otherwise unknown.
so this, also is probably mythical. It is much too rough to
hope to see any turtles to-day, much less catch them. Run
only 286 miles. Capt. Scott has got his violin in order :
he plays it very well. Heavy lightning to-night and
stormy sunset; very strong breeze.
Thursday,  Feb. 5th.
Very strong trades to-day; also strong current against
us; run only 208 miles. Done some more navigation to-day,
and learnt how to use the sextant, but shall not keep it up,
as the small figures, in reading off, hurt my eyes so. I am
afraid they are getting weak, for I can't go on reading for
any length of time. We shall be in the latitude of
Clipperton Island to-night, but, thank goodness, are giving
it a wide berth- It is a most dangerous spot, and is thus
described in Directory :^—
^tteOKmimam^!mM9Ham)miA.J^^SSm Clipperton Island.
Clipperton Island: Lat. 10° 17' N. (10° 13' 24"). Long. 109° 10' W.
(109° 7' 30"). A very dangerous low lagoon island ; destitute of
trees ; with a high rock on its southern edge—which may be
mistaken for a sail.
The whole island is, with the exception of the solitary rock,
which is 50 feet high, only about 6 feet above the level of
the sea; it is 7 miles long by 1 broad, and consists of a
fine white sand; altogether, a most beastly sort of place.
Friday, Feb. 6th.
Saw a solitary turtle close to the ship, just before dinner
last night. A very heavy rain storm came over us just
after dinner—a regular deluge. A fine bright moring.
Heaps of booby birds about; one alighted on deck which
the carpenter caught and brought aft: it was a young one
and awfully savage ; we threw it overboard after we had
had a good look at it, Nice breeze all day, and a little
cooler. Run 212 m. They are painting the mast and
spars to-day. Three boobies perched themselves on the
ship forward this evening, one in the foretop and two on
the anchor davits. They allowed us to go quite close to
them, and did not attempt to fly away. The sailors caught
one, and after fastening a piece of wood to it threw it overboard—rather cruel of them. There are probably a lot of
them roosting on the ship to-night; they well deserve their
Saturday, Feb, 7th.
Fine morning, and a little cooler. The chief officer shot
the booby bird that perched itself in the foretop, and
served it right, for it had made a great mess of the fore-
stay sail. There have been a lot about to-day: one
perched on the awning chain and would not go away; it
allowed us to touch it, they are very ugly and vicious ; this
particular one has a big wound in its stomach ; the wretched
thing is still perched on the awning chair (9 p.m.) and is
fast asleep, with its long, savage looking beak under its
wing. I am sure we could easily tame it if we tried. It
is really absurd. One of the sailors painting the flagpole
aft this afternoon painted its feet and chest yellow without
getting hold of it, and it never attempted to move, but
kept quietly looking round about.  We saw a most magni- w/@m.
St. Beneduio Island.
ficent falling star to-night, it was most wonderful; it
seemed to fall quite close to us, and looked like a huge
rocket, bursting at intervals. The captain says that in all
his experience he never saw anything to equal it Saw a
large curious black and white bird, somewhat like a hawk,
with a long forked tail.
Sunday, Feb. 8th.
Beautiful day; a little cooler and quite calm. Very
strong current against us. Run only 205 miles. Distant
from Socorro Island at noon 119 miles. Topsy (the cat)
scratched my neck open this morning, in jumping on to
my shoulder. Heavy swell in spite of the calm; ship
pitching a great deal. No sight of land at sundown,
though the island is visible 60 miles off in clear weather,
land on it being 1,200 feet high. Three booby birds on
deck for'ard this evening. We have only sighted one ship
since leaving Lota.
Monday, Feb. 9th.
At seven o'clock I went on deck and found that we had
safely passed close to Socorro Island during the night: it
was in sight right astern of us-—a large high volcanic
island. We were then (7 a.m.) just abreast St. Benedicto
Island, distant about 10 miles—a base looking place. Although there are several more islands on either side Of
us, they are too far off to be seen, and the next land wo
shall sight will probably be Guadaloupe Island, about
half-way up the peninsular of Iowta, California. Run today only 204 miles. Strong current still against us. Lovely
day, and much cooler. Beastly poor feeding lately; worse
than ever to-day. Tremendously heavy swell against us to
night, making the ship pitch a great deal; not much wind.
Tuesday, Feb. 10th.
No wind to-day, but still the very heavy swell. In spite
of the calm weather our run was only 190 miles—quite
upset the Captain.    Frida did a lot of washing.
Wednesday, Feb. 11th.
Head wind to-day ; very fine and much cooler.    Passed r*s3£
Guadaloupe Island.
about 30 miles to the eastward of the Alijos rocks this
morning1;   they are most dangerous to navigation;  the
highest one is 106 feet high. Should reach Guadaloupe
to-morrow afternoon, and be abreast San Francisco in. 3£
days. About 8 days more to Victoria. Quite cold to-night
and very dark. No improvement in the grub. Carter,
the second officer, has drawn a very pretty trophy of arms,
to decorate Forester's book, which he has entitled " Ocean'
Jottings," and is going to publish on our arrival. The
ship looks ever so much better now she is painted up.
Thursday, Feb. 12th.
Fine day and very calm. Sighted Guadaloupe Island
about 11 a.m. It is a fine Island, 15 miles long and 5
broad; I believe uninhabited. A fine range of hills in
the interior, the highest estimated to be over 3,000 feet.
Few supplies can be obtained on it, except water and wood.
There are a few goats. We saw a small schooner cruising
close to the Island, so perhaps there are a few people on
it; this is the second sail we have sighted since leaving
Coronel.    Plenty of fine trees on the island.
Latitude  118° 45'W. Longitude  29° 20'N.
Friday, Feb. 13th.
Tremendously long rollers from the north to-day, stopping us a little. Our run was only 195 miles in spite of the
dead calm. Beautiful day. The water this morning was
bitterly cold. I read Forester's book through this morning,
it is fairly well written and rather interesting. The
wretched Tommy is ridiculed throughout. Expect to sight
Conception Point to-morrow. Saw a large shoal of small
whales (Grampus) quite close to the ship this morning.
No wind to-night but tremendous rollers.     Played the
na 28
Off San Francisco.
usual | Ludo " after dinner, but got so sick of it that I
soon stopped.
Saturday, Feb. 14th.
Passed some dangerous shoals last night and this morning sighted the Island St. Miguel lying off the coast of S.
California. Later on we sighted the mainland, and the
loom of the land has been visible all day. Wind has
changed to s.w. and there is every indication of a strong
wind. Very heavy rollers continue and the ship is pitching
about a good deal. Sighted a ship in the distance after
lunch. 9-30 p.m.—Very dirty night, raining hard and
blowing pretty fresh ; luckily right aft. Hope this won't
continue.    Finished six letters.
Sunday, Feb. 15th.
Awfully dirty last night, heavy gale from the s.w. which
changed at 8 a.m. to-day to the n.w. The ship tumbled
about unmercifully all night, and Winnie did not sleep at
all. Been very thick all day, with very heavy sea. High
sea all day, strong head wind. Abreast San Francisco at
noon*, only 5 miles distant from the Island Lighthouse.
Passed close under the stern of a smart brigantine, bowling merrily along with reefed mainsail. She was running into San Francisco and had probably come from
Honolulu with sugar. Carried away several small things
to-day, including the supporting pole of the awning ridge.
The barometer registered 29.3° this afternoon; awfully
low, the weather must have been terrible a bit further out.
Sighted Point Arena light about 11-30 p.m., the weather
having cleared up a good deal, though a very strong wind.
12, midnight.—Barometer rising a little.
Monday, Feb. 16th.
Off Cape Mendocino at breakfast time. This is the most
western point in the United States and is fine high land,
with the top covered with snow.' Cape Blanco, 145 miles
more to north, is 11 miles more west than Mendocino
(Longitude   124°   33'  W.).       The   coast   line   all   along
♦Farralone, distant from San Francisco (Golden Gate) 23£ miles.
$eg$5S5B£3£5JjQ{j| California*
here is very high and bold. We have been within 10
miles of it all night, and have passed several towns ; also
several steamers, one or two quite close to. A very strong
wind last night, but the Captain bore up under the land,
so that we were pretty well sheltered. Heavy rain squalls
this morning and the wind shifting about all over the compass. Hills are 3.000 feet high. Tremendous big trees
everywhere. Off Eureka at 2 p.m. Heaps of driftwood
floating about. We are getting short of coal so have been
obliged to reduce our speed to 8£ knots. Constantly
passing vessels, mostly steamers, one of which is gradually
overhauling us.
124° 22' W.     40° 25' N.
Tuesday, Feb. 17th.
Squally night, but not very much sea. Sighted Cape
Blanco (or Orford) at 4 a.m. This is the most western
Point of the U. S. A. Heavy hail storm just before and
another just after breakfast. Captain was up nearly all
night. Passed two schooners (one quite close to, a fine
little vessel probably a sealer) sloppering up to windward,
against the strong s.e. wind. 9. p.m. Has been squally
all day and very cold. It cleared up just before dinner
and was bright and fine for several hours. Land in sight
at intervals all day, though quite 30 miles off. Expect to
be up to Cape Flattery about 4 a.m. on Thursday morning.
It is a great nuisance running short of coal and so having
to slow down. The engines also want screwing up very
badly; however they have done splendidly so far, fancy
76 days out and only two stoppages. Can't say I like this
cold weather and stormy sea, after the lovely weather we
have lately been through. Arrived at Esquimalt.
Wednesday, Feb. 18th.
Awfully cold to-day and blowing very hard indeed from
the s.w. Passed the mouth of the Columbia River at
breakfast time. A small schooner was beating down to
windward at this time and was going along beautifully.
Winnie hard at work packing up. 2 p.m. Gale increasing,
very heavy squalls all day, with high sea. I don't think
it was anything like as bad as this off Patagonia. However, six hours more and we shall be in smooth water.
Beastly cold; heavy falls of sleet. Sighted Cape Flattery
light at 10 p.m. and at 12 p.m. had rounded it, when a
heavy snow storm came on and we had to • steam out to
sea again. When this had blown over we again entered
fthe Fuca Straits and at 1 a.m. I turned in.
Thursday, Feb. 19th.
We let go our anchor in Esquimalt Harbour at 9-30 a.m.
Very glad to be in port once more. This is a very fine
land-locked harbour and is the headquarters of the North
Pacific Fleet, though there is only one man-of-war in at
present, the Melpomene. The Captain went ashore after
breakfast, promising to send word immediately he had
cleared the ship, to send permission for the passengers to
go ashore. This he did not do till he came aboard at 8
p.m., so that we spent the whole day promenading the
quarter-deck and admiring the scenery, which really is
very fine. He no doubt met a heap of old friends on shore
and quite forgot us passengers; beastly nuisance—especially for me, for C. Pearse's Teamster came off in a canoe
at noon, and I had to send the former a note telling him
I could not call on him, as we had not permission to land.
Fresh beef for dinner; a great treat; the first we have
had since leaving Coronel. Fine night. Snow been falling
at intervals all day.
Friday, Feb. 20th.
Landed at 9 a.m. after a hurried breakfast and caught
the 9-30 Electric tram to Victoria; it took 20 minutes to
do the four miles, very speedy, but very jolty. Got letters
and money at the Post Office and returned to ship at noon, £w*&.
just in time to catch Charlie Pearse whom I had appointed
to meet there at noon.. He was very pleased to see me and
kindly asked us to stay with him and at anyrate to lunch
at his place to-morrow. He has got a farm here and deals
in horses. Returned with Winnie at 3-30 to Victoria, leaving our heavy baggage on board. We have put up at the
"Oriental" Hotel and have got a nice sitting room and
bedroom with food and attendance for $2 each per diem.
This seems a very busy city and is lit with gas and electric
light. Ripping good dinner here. There is a theatre and
some- thing on there to-night, but we didn't go. Nearly
all the houses are built of wood.
Saturday, Feb. 21st.
Went to Esquimalt in the morning with Frida intending
to lunch with Pearse, but the weather was so bad that we
did not venture, so returned to Victoria, and in the afternoon were introduced to several people, including the
Mayor, Mr. Grant, the Captain of the Port, Captain Clark
a retired naval chap, also an army man, Major Wilson,
late of the 42nd, and a host of others. We went down to
the ship for dinner and returned to the hotel at 10 p.m.
Very bad. Posted the letters home from the hotel. The
West Indian is going to Nanaimo on Tuesday to discharge
rails and coal. Went over the Islander after dinner with
Williams, she is a splendidly got up steamer—oil paintings
everywhere—but looks frightfully top heavy. Williams
brought her out from England. I wonder they ever got
here safely.
Sunday, Feb. 22nd.
Looked up Arnold Barham this morning; he is a very
nice fellow, and has a charming little house on Menzies-
street, in the suburbs. His wife also is very nice, and they
have two children, I think one of them a boy about three
years old. He was very glad to see us (Forester went
with me), and we had a long talk over old times about J.
H. J. Arthur and the Lurline. Met the Mayor after lunch,
and have made an appointment to go to the City Hall at
11 o'clock to-morrow to meet him.    He has put us up for 32
the Club. Captain and Mrs. Scott and Locke dined with
us here this evening; awful bad dinner. It has been
bitterly cold and snowing hard all day. The electric cars
have stopped running. Had a long talk with "Major
Wilson to-night about things in general. Frida not well
Monday, Feb. 23rd.
Arnold Barham did not turn up here till 12 o'clock, so
that I just missed him as I had to go to see the Mayor at.
11-30. He was very civil and has put me up at the Club
for a week. We went to the Club with the Sanitary Engineer and found it a very nice place ; large billiard and
dining rooms. This place is full of English people. Engaged rooms at 63, Superior-street and we go there tomorrow. Went down to the ship later on. Carter, the
2nd officer, was lying drunk in the hold, and while we were
on board Lock went down to try and get him up to bed;
upon which they quarrelled and Lock gave him a black
eye. The Captain came on the scene and there was old
Harry to pay; he knocked Carter all over the place and
eventually put him in irons and locked him in his room.-
Williams the 3rd officer left the ship this morning, and
started for San Francisco in the City of Puebla. The
gambling in the bar of this hotel is tremendous. To-night
it was crowded and they were playing " Vingt'in " for $20
stakes. Still freezing to-night though it has been thawing
all day. There is quite a large China town here ; all the
domestic servants are Chinese.
Tuesday, Feb. 24th.
After breakfast, Arnold Barham turned up, and introduced me to a friend, who kindly offered to put me up for
the club, but as I am already a member, I did not need
his services. Barham has invited us to his place on Friday
night. Went to Esquimalt, after lunch, and took Bebbing-
ton's boat; rowed over to Hutley Park in 35 minutes,
only to find that Pearse had gone to Victoria, so after having
a look round we returned, made some purchases, and got
to our lodgings at 6 p.m. This is a fairly comfortable
room, 3J dollars per week, but no attendance is included, Victoria.
so Frida will have to cook breakfast, wash up, make the
bed, light the fire, and in fact do everything. Dined at
the "Poodle Dog," a very fair restaurant, much better than
the hotel. It is a lovely row from Hutley Park to Esquimalt. After crossing the harbour you enter a lagoon
swarming with ducks of all sorts. Beautiful evergreen
trees on the banks and in fact charming scenery. Rather
a cold row back. Carter, the 2nd mate, has been sacked
from the West Indian as he got drunk again to-day. He
was locked up last night in jail, and was liberated this
morning on paying 5 dollars They have got a new 2nd
mate on board. The West Indian is not sailing for Nanaimo
till to-morrow.
Wednesday, Feb. 25th
Frida cooked the breakfast and we had finished by ten
o'clock, she had made the fire, cooked breakfast, swept the
room and everything by the time I was dressed. She
enjoys this picnicing immensely. Went down to the ship
and got our deck chairs, returning by the electric railway.
Went to town afterwards and met the Captain and
Forester, also Pearse and a friend. Pearse said he would
come to the rooms at 4 p.m., but as it was raining hard at
that time, he did not turn up. Went up to Victoria at 6
p.m. and bought two of Rider Haggard's books, " The
World's Choice " and " Beatrice," one 40 cents and the
other 30 cents, dirt cheap as compared wiih our English
editions. Dined at Delmonico's, very bad dinner, and
afterwards went down to the ship to say good-bye. They
were all ready to go, pilot on board, &c, but the Captain
delayed for half-an-hour to have a talk with us. He
wanted us badly to go up to Nanaimo with him, and on to
Vancouver, &c, but I did not feel inclined, so after hot
whiskies we departed after saying farewell about half-a-
dozen times. Carter came down while we were there in a
frock coat and pot hat, and said good-bye. What a fool
the poor chap has made of himself. However, he will
soon get a job here.
Thursday, Feb. 26th.
Winnie cooked breakfast again.    About noon I went ESr
into town ; met Nicholls and Forester, and later on Pearse,
who introduced me to a friend, Ward, a very decent chap,
son of the banker here. I then went to the Club, and
thence to the rooms to lunch. In the afternoon again went
to the Club and beat Forester in two games of billiards.
Met two fellows whom I have been introduced to, but
whose names I forget. Dined at 6-30 p.m. at s small restaurant. The heat there was terrible, and the dinner bad.
The " Poodle Dog " is by far the best restaurant we have
been to as yet. Freezing hard to-night but it has been a
lovely day. Forester came to our rooms this afternoon
and drank whiskey in his tea.
Friday, Feb. 27th.
Went to the station to meet the Nanaimo train, but Captain Scott did not come by it, so returned to the rooms for
lunch. Afterwards went for a walk with Frida, and disr
covered the Public Park, where there were lots of boys
skating. There is a " Zoo " here, not a very large one,
the principal animals being bears and deers. There are
swarms of the latter in the Island, in fact of both. We.
then walked up to Beacon Hill and got a most magnificent
view of the whole place. It was a glorious afternoon and
very clear. We could see Mount Baker on the mainland
beyond Vancouver, a huge mountain covered with snow.
Opposite us the magnificient Olympus range in Washington
territory, the smoke of Port Agelo at their foot, and between the mountains and us, the Fuca Straits. It was a
most lovely sight, one of the finest I ever saw. After
dinner at the "Poodle Dog," we walked over to 140,
Menzies-street, Barham's house, and spent a very pleasant
evening there. It is a very comfortable little house, and
they are fortunate enough to have one small servant girl,
quite a rarity here.
Saturday, Feb. 28th.
Very hard frost last night, but no snow, thank goodness ;
James' Bay frozen right over. Barham called, at 10-30,
and we walked into town. He introduced me to several
people and I had a good look round at the various offices
S5HEB TWTftr-riftrli^™--
for suitable investments. It seems to me that the land in
the immediate vicinity of Victoria is awfully high. There
are some nice lots, however, just outside. It is not much
use buying a large piece for farming, for it doesn't pay.
Lunched and dined at the rooms to-day. Went to the
Club this afternoon and saw old Raffles death in the Illustrated of 7th Inst.; very sorry to hear of it. Had some
splendid salmon for dinner to-night, only 12^ cents a lb.
Wild ducks are also only two bits a piece, and salmon is
at its most expensive stage now.
Sunday, March 1st.
• Very late getting up ; had only rust finished breakfast
at noon when Forester arrived and he and I went for a
walk. Returned to early dinner at the rooms but found
that Frida had let the joint (pork) get on fire, when our
landlady got into a frightful state of excitement (as it
was blazing up merrily), seized it, and in a frenzy hurled
it out of doors against a wooden outhouse. Fortunately
the latter did not catch fire. When it was over she frantically shouted for help, and two men came, only to laugh
at her. However, I made a good feed of salmon steak.
In the afternoon Captain and Mrs. Scott and Miss Howard
called and stopped till 5-45. Miss Howard is very pretty
with a game leg. They had arrived from Nanaimo this
morning and had driven over to see us from Esquimalt.
He wants us to go with him to Vancouver on Tuesday,
and we probably shall go. Went to Christ Church Cathedral this evening with Forester, who afterwards came to
our rooms till 11 p.m. Very fair service with nice anthem.
The Bishop read the lessons; service only one hour and
ten minutes. Poor sermon. Has been a most perfect
day, though of course very cold. Hope to get some
skating 'to-morrow.
Monday, Mar. 2nd.
Lovely weather again. Called at Barham's house after
breakfast, but he was out. Saw Mrs. Barham though,
and she said that he was going up the Skeena River any
day now, as his steamer had arrived in Victoria.     Mrs. ^S8M
Scott called at the rooms at 12 and stopped till 1 p.m.,
when we lunched, and afterwards Frida and I went for a
long walk out to Oak Bay. Charming country, like it
better than Esquimalt out there; glorious view of the
Straits and Mount Baker in the distance. The barque
Scottish Bard is lying in Victoria. She is a most smart
little vessel, smaller, though ever so much smarter than
the Archer. She is a London ship. Met a heap of men I
have been introduced to to-day, and ought to have left a
card at the Club, but quite forgot. Dined at the " Poodle
Dog;" very fair dinner. Start at 8 a.m. to-morrow for
Nanaimo, thence to Vancouver.
Tuesday, March 3rd.
One of the nanies, who sleep in the next room to ours,
woke me up at 6 a.m. ; I got up immediately, lit the fire,
and cooked breakfast; chops and eggs, as I thought it
best for Frida to stay in bed as long as possible. The
cab (a hansom) was at the door at 7.30, when we started
for the station and got there in good time for the train,
which left at 8 a.m. Captain Scott, Mrs. Scott and Miss
Howard joined us at the first station we stopped at, and
on we all went to Nanaimo. A Mr. Ward, son of the
banker, and brother to the one Pearse introduced me to,
was with us and turned out to be a very nice fellow. He
told me all about the sport in this country. His brother-
in-law, Drummond, has a huge ranch of over 100,000
acres up in the Cariboo district, so he knows a good deal
about it. Arrived at Nanaimo at noon, after a delightful
run through a most interesting and most beautiful bit of
Vancouver Island. Some of the trestle bridges are rather
ticklish. Duncan's, a station half way, is very pretty,
several English people live there. Shawmgin Lake and
the Conicham district are also most beautiful spots. We
all walked down to the West Indian to lunch, and afterwards I went over a fine American steamer, the Commodore.
Splendid saloon and cabin. Her Captain was very civil,
and showed me all over her, and afterwards very kindly
lent me his small boat to go after the ducks in. Mrs.
Scott and Mis$ Iloward came with me, and Frida pulled ; Vancouver Island.
but I did not get much luck though I had a lot of shots ;
the ladies were awfully in the way. Meanwhile the West
Indian had taken the ground, and when we got on board,
had a tremendous list.    Lock was very excited about us.
Wednesday, March 4th.
The ship again took a bad list during the coaling, as
they dumped all the coal into her port side, and if it had
not been for Scott being on the alert we should have been
on our beam ends. Left Nanaimo at 7 a.m., and when I
got up for breakfast at 9 o'clock, we were just approaching
Vancouver, with two steamers behind us, the Cutch and
the Islander. The Cutch had been doing her best to overtake us but could not do it, as the Captain had told old
McMicken to cram on every pound of steam he could, and
we went faster than I have ever known her go before.
As we rounded the point into Coal harbour we passed
within a few yards of the wreck of the Beaver, the first
steamer that ran on this coast. She is very tiny, about the
size of one of the " Great Float" tugs. Yet she came
round the Horn. The Public Park was on our right here,
8 miles round; on the left was the Indian village, looking
very pretty, and in front was the wonderful city of Vancouver, just five years old. There was a large crowd of
people on the wharf to watch us land. Forester came on
board almost immediately, having arrived from Victoria
in the Islander. He and I went over the town together,
and to the C.P.R. Terminus, which is like a little country
roadside station at -home. The eastbound train was just
leaving, and we had a look at the carriages ; not up to
much. After dinner on board, drove in a hack to Targent's
house, about two miles out of town, and spent the evening
there. Drank phiz. .Mrs. Targent comes from Crosby.
Very comfortable house.
Thursday, March 5th.
Forester arranged to have his book published by the
Evening Telegram people at a cost of about £20 for 1,000
copies ; it will probably be out in about a fortnight. All
the pubs are closed to-day on account of the elections.    A ^^^^f^^P»M^
Captain Copp took me for a ten mile tramp after ducks,
but they were very wild and scarce He then took me to
his house; very nice indeed. I hurried back to the ship
and had only just time to say good-bye and rush off to the
Islander, who started immediately we got aboard. She is
a magnificent twin-screw steamer, and steams 16 knots.
She vibrated awfully though, having lost a blade of her
port propeller the other night. We left Vancouver at 4-30
p.m. and arrived in Victoria at 10 p.m. (5£ hours). Bright,
lovely evening, and- flat calm; all the stars and electric
lights were reflected in the sea, and the effect was charming.
The Opera House is a fine building in Vancouver, also the
C. P. R. Hotel, but the latter is very expensive. The
scenery all about is very fine indeed; shooting and fishing
the best in the world ; yet I don't like the place half as
well as Victoria, it looks too big for the number of people
there f the population is 15,000. Costello and Paddy had
a fight this morning, and Costello got the best of it, giving
Paddy a black eye, &c. The price of land in Vancouver
is very high at present. I think I shall apply for the 160
acres though, if it is still to be had. The Empress of India
is expected on the 15th April.
Friday, March 6th.
Raw nasty day. Have got a very bad throat, and cold
in the head. Were busy till 3 p.m. changing to the downstairs room, at which time Mr. and Mrs. Barham called,
but did not stay long. Barham is going up to the Skeena
river to-night in a wretched little "steamer called the
Bus'cowitz, and I quite forgot to say " good-bye" to him,
but shall probably see him again before we go. Met
Williams in Government-street; he had just returned from
San Francisco, where he had been to be married. On his
return he went on board the Islander, where he expected to get the place as mate, only to find that the
skipper had understood him to have been the cause of the
row on board the West Indian, and, therefore, would
not give him the berth—rather hard on him ; so I wrote
to Capt. Rudlin, of the Islander, explaining that it was not
Williams, so I hope it will be all right for him.     Dined pn
at the " Poodle "Dog;" very good dinner. Returned to
rooms directly afterwards. My throat very bad and sore.
Like the downstairs room much better than the old one.
Saturday, March 7th.
My cold has been so bad to-day that we only went out
for about an hour this afternoon to do some shopping.
We met Mrs. Barham and her little boy on Government-
street ; her husband went up to the Skeena river last night
for the season, and will not be back till September; Mrs.
Barham will go to him in about six weeks time. New
lodgers have come here : an Englishman with an American
wife. Frida says the latter is a rather objectionable personage, and makes her husband do all the cooking. Had;
some delicious salmon for dinner to-night: we dined in
the rooms.    Has not been quite so cold to-day.
Sunday, March 8th.
Very wet all day, so much so that neither of us went out,
and I'm glad I didn't, on account of my cold, which is a
little better to-night. It is rather foggy all the same in
this one little room. Wrote to Fhatty. Nothing: else to
Monday, March 9th.
Met Williams this morning, who told me he had got his
berth in the Islander. I expect my writing to her captain
fixed it for him. There, was a large fire in China town,
and I went to see it. The heat was very great, and the
dirty wooden houses were blazing away merrily. There
were three or four fire engines at work, preventing the fire
spreading. They were purposely burning this part of the
China town, and it smelled terribly—a very good way of
clearing away a nuisance. Did some shopping with Frida
in the afternoon, and went for a long walk in the Park.
Lovely afternoon ; wish my cold was better, and then I
could enjoy it. They want 164 dollars to take us to Liverpool by Union, Pacific and New York—rather stiff. The
C. P. R., via, Halifax, only charge 119 dollars. Met the
mayor this afternoon.     A small schooner, the Geneva, has 4°
just arrived here from Halifax, N. S. She was only 110
days on the passage; the quickest on record—distance over
14,000 miles, and she is only 97 tons. There is another
barque in the Straits, the Embleton, which has been two
years out from Liverpool.
Tuesday, March 10th.
Cabled to Avison for money at noon to-day, and made
further inquiries at the O. P. R. offices about securing
berths on the Vancouver, &c. Went for a walk with Frida
in afternoon ; lovely day. Dined at the " Poodle Dog;"
very bad dinner. Cold a little better; Frida has caught
one now, worse luck. Went to the Adjutant of the Canadian Battery about exchanging or being transferred into
it, in case of our coming out here to live. We went down
to see the little schooner the Geneva, that had come all the.
way from Halifax here, via Cape Horn. She is a most smart
looking little vessel with a very pretty bow, rather small
though, for such a long voyage. We. also went over to the
Indian Reservation, to have a look at the Indian village
there; nothing much to see however.
Wednesday, March 11th.
A telegram arrived from Avison this morning, saying
they had cabled out £100, though I had only asked for
£80. Pretty good work, only 24 hours doing it. Lovely
day again, but cold. Met Ward and a friend this morning,
the latter invited me to go and lunch with him, but I
wouldn't as Frida is very seedy to-day. Went for a charming walk this afternoon, right out into the country; passed
the cemetery which is finely situated near the sea. Some
of the views were lovely, but it was rather too far for
Frida, and we were both tired when we got in. Went
down to meet the Islander after dinner, but she is not expected till 2 a.m. in the morning, on account of the overland train being late. Captain Scott and Forester are
coming in her. Met several people I knew to-day. The
money had not come when I called at the bank this
morning, but I expect it will be there to-morrow.
sgsagE-aagasfrigsjMM'i mwM
Thursday, March 12th.
Scott and Forester arrived from New Westminster at 1
a.m. in the Islander. Met them after breakfast, when Captain Scott went over with me to the bank of B. A. A. and
identified me, when I drew out £50 leaving the other £50
there for safety. Forester says he likes New Westminster
very much and wants, me to go over there with him on
Monday. I want to start for home on Wednesday, but
Frida is full of fears about the long railway journey ; it
will be sickening if we have to stop here, but of course if
it will be dangerous for her to travel I must stop. Went
over to Esquimalt this afternoon to see about some property ; shall have to go there again on Saturday.. Frida
got a letter from Edie to-day. Wish to goodness I had got
Frida safely home ! It will be beastly rot if it was. to
happen out here!
Friday, March 13th.
Rather seedy to-day. Received a wire from Liverpool
containing one word I Apporto," which means in their
code " go to Post Office for letters." It is rather unlikely
that I should not have called there; however, the cable
was not signed, so I don't know who it is from, probably
Phatty. Went to the agent of the N. P. Railway, to ask
him his fare to Liverpool via New York, as they tell me
the snow has begun to slide badly on the C. P. R. It is a
few dollars more than the latter, but the railway journey
is only five-and-a-half days instead of seven. We shall
probably go by it. Met Captain Scott. Much milder today ; does not suit my cold at all. Saw in to-night's
paper about the awful weather in England; also about
the capture of Coronel. Fancy the station house being
knocked down and 276 people killed by the guns of the
Esmeralda/ I hope Taylor and his wife have escaped. I
see that most of the British merchants have been ordered
to leave the country, and that " Wm. Edwards' " estates
have been confiscated. He owned most of the coal about
Lota, and was reported the richest man in Chili, much
richer than Madame Consino.
Saturday, March 14th.
Warm summer morning, it registered 60° at breakfast 42
time. At 11 o'clock I had just got on to the James' Bay
bridge when I met Charlie Pearse riding a ripping little
chesnut, very shy of the trams. He had ridden over from
Hutley Park for me, leading another horse for my benefit ; very kind of him. I was going there to-day, but we
have arranged to ride over to-morrow. Had a long confab
with the Northern Pacific agent, in which he reduced his
fare to New York considerably, and it ended up in my
promising to go by his line if he would agree to split his
commission with me, which he did. Therefore we shall
probably go to New York on Thursday next, via. Tacooma
and Chicago, and thence to Liverpool by the Aurania.
Hired a skiff at James' Bay this afternoon, as the weather
was lovely, and took Frida for a delightful row up the
Gorge. Beautiful scenery, enjoyed it very much. Received some papers from Ruthin ; I was very glad to get
them. A tiny little bark from England has arrived here,
The Irvine, about half the size of the Archer.
Sunday, March 15th.
Unfortunately it turned out a wet morning, but after
breakfast I walked to the outer wharf to see the s.s.
Walla Walla, just ready to start for San Francisco. She
is a very fine steamer indeed, as far as her accommodation
went, quite as large as the West Indian, I should think.
At 11-30 I walked up to Mrs. Howard's house, opposite
the cathedral, and met Pearse there, also two other fellows.
After smoking there for half-an-hour we mounted our
horses—he, a very smart chesnut, and I a ripping little
polo pony—and off we started on our T| miles ride out to
Hutley Park, where we arrived about 1 p.m., after a jolly
ride over a good road with lovely scenery. The fishing
season opened to-day, and on the bridge which we crossed
were two men fishing; on the ground near them lay a pile
of trout, one weighing, I should think, over five lbs. They
were only using a bent pin with a worm on it. Pearse introduced me to his partner, an extremely nice fellow named
Stewart. Their property is about 600 acres in extent.
After an excellent lunch, served up by Ab Fouk, their
Chinaman, it poured with rain till almost 5 p.m., when we
went for a stroll.   Young Howard turned up, wet through,
^mB^mms^^sem Victoria.
to tell me about some property, but I would have none of
it. Spent a very pleasant evening and turned in about
12 p.m.    Stewart donned his highland suit for dinner.
Monday, March 16th.
Walked over a good part of the estate with Pearse after
breakfast. It is without exception one of the most
charming spots imaginable ; lovely forest scenery, full of
trout, streams literally teeming with trout. We put up
several head of game (grouse and pheasants), but though
we saw a lot of fresh deer tracks, we did not spot any deer.
Stewart and Albert (their foreman) were busy sowing oats.
I think they are most lucky to have got hold of such very
nice property. After lunch we started back again for
Victoria on the same horses we had ridden yesterday.
The one I rode, Pearse has very kindly placed at my disposal during my stay here. Arrived back at 4 p.m. and
found Frida all right. Did some shopping and said goodbye to Forester, at the Oriental Hotel; he returns to
Vancouver to-night by the Islander. I'm pretty tired
to-night, having enjoyed my visit to Hutley Park very
much, the whole idea is very charming. I would have
stopped longer only could not leave Frida by herself.
Tuesday, March 17th.
Have had a very long tiring day, especially for Frida,
thanks to a wild goose chase that young Howard of Esquimalt took us, after some property on Cordova Bay.
Pearse has very kindly put a pony and trap at my disposal
till I leave; so at 3 p.m., after saying good-bye to Scott
and receiving from him a present to give to his little
daughter at Seacombe, I went to the livery stables opposite
the Driard and got the pony harnessed and drove to the
rooms, where I picked up Frida. Young Howard and a
friend were waiting for me there, in the former's buggy,
so off we started for a bay, where he said the property was,
4| miles distant. Well, we got to this bay in good time,
only to find that the place was on the next bay, Cordova ;
so on we went over a most villainous road for about 20
miles, and at last, at 6 p.m., found the place. Most beautifully situated, pretty and all that, but my temper was a JM-A#»A «?■***
bit ruffled at the length of the drive on Frida's account,
so I would have nothing to do with it, so we drove back,
arriving home about 8 p.m. Said good-bye to Pearse this
morning and took tickets to New York, via Chicago.
Frida very knocked up to-night; beastly nuisance ! that
long drive over such a bad road. Received a letter from
Captain Benson, of the Canadian Battery, giving me information about exchanging, etc. Weather wet and dull all
day and much colder.
Wednesday, March 18th.
Stopped in this morning. Young Howard called, bothering me about his estate; I told him to call again. Called
on Nickells, who quickly informed me that this Howard
property business was a put up job, in toto, which was
corroborated by another fellow. He had no power to deal
with the property at all, and what he wanted me to do was
to plank down some dollars in deposit (he only wanted
100). Then with this in-his pocket he would be able to go
down to San Francisco with Scott. He is very keen about
doing this, and I should have heard no more about the property. He and his friend called about 4 p.m. and were very
specious about it, but I told them I did not think I would
purchase any property in the Island this visit.
Thursday, March 19th.
Young Howard called after breakfast, and got quite excited when I told him I would have nothing to do with the
property definitely. Of course he said he had been to
much expense about it, that he had got the deeds, etc., all
prepared, but I told him he was a fool for his pains, as he
had no business to get anything prepared without my
sanction. I never heard of such a rotten, humbugging
attempt at a swindle in all my life. I gave it him pretty
hot, however, before I had done with him. Nickells has
most kindly taken charge of my big portmanteau, two deck
chairs, solar topu, gun, and gun case, and cartridge box,
till my return to Victoria. Frida did John Chinaman today; he wanted 1£ dollars for his washing, but she gave
him only 80 cents, in spite of his " No can do." Went for
a drive in Pearse's trap to the cemetery and round the Leaving Victoria.
park,, and wrote to him thanking him for his kindness.
Went on board the City of Kingston at 8 p.m. and were
given a splendid cabin with large bed. Her engines work
without any noise whatever, I never saw engines work so
well.    Our baggage was examined on leaving Victoria.
Friday, March 20th.
Arrived at Tacoma at 8-15 a.m. and left in the "Atlantic
Mail " at seven punctually. We go in the " Tourist" car
as far as St. Paul's, and from there to New York, 1st class.
This " Tourist " is very comfortable, but frightfully overheated. Had a splendid breakfast in the dining car,
paid 75 cents. The dining car remains on the train right
through to St. Paul's. Nothing can describe the agonizing
shaking up we got on board the City of Kingston last night.
We called at two places before reaching Tacoma, viz.,
Port Townsend and Seattle, the latter is the toughest city
in the U.S.A. It is not safe for anyone to venture out at
night there. Well, every time the City of Kingston went
astern the vibration was terrible, I should never have
thought it possible that a s.s. could have shaken so much.
Poor Frida was awfully shaken up. We passed across the
" Cascade " Range all day; very high mountains. We
passed along the edges of some awful precipices, and
across some awe-inspiring wooden trestles across the gullies, hundreds of feet high. Had a very good dinner
to night, very civil waiter. Most magnificient scenery all
day. Saw heaps of bear and deer tracks all along the
line. Got to Spokeme Falls at midnight. This is a most
lovely spot; the falls thGy say are as fine as any in
America, as far as beauty is concerned.
Saturday, March 21st.
Were three hours late to-day. Passed through a desert
sandy country all day; most uninteresting. Had mutton
for dinner. This is a great mining country ; some very
rough characters keep boarding the cars.
Sunday, March 22nd.
Proceeded along the right bank of the Yellowstone road
all day ; most uninteresling country.     Had broiled fillets
,wuxa 46
of antelope for dinner.    Nothing of interest to note.    Car
frightfullv overheated as usual.
Monday, March 23rd.
Flew along all day at great speed. At 7 a.m we were
3 hours behind time, yet we did so well that we arrived at
Minneapolis " on time ;" pretty creditable work. Passed
through a perfectly level country all day; most uninteresting. The heat in the "Tourist" was unsufferable.
One beastly man was continually complaining about the
cold, though one could hardly breathe. The confounded
fugginess has completely knocked us up and I've got a
most beastly cold. Frida, however, is so far all right.
She has stood this long and tedious journey wonderfully
Tuesday, March 24th.
Arrived here punctually at 9 a.m., on time. Am pretty
bad with " Grippe," at least I think it must be that. Am
better to-night, but Frida has got the symptoms now;
hope to goodness she will be able to travel to-morrow.
Got into one of Parmelees' busses and drove to the Grand
Pacific Hotel, where we put up. Very good room with
bath, etc., attached. Awfully tired and done up, so have
rested quietly all day. Heaps of "Grippe" about, 900
people died from it here last week. Two reporters collared me to-day to know where Beaumaris was and other
small particulars; I expect I will be in the papers tomorrow. The population of this city is " dear" 1,200,000.
This is a magnificent hotel and takes up an entire block.
everything in it is on a huge scale. Walked down Clerk
street to the Chicago and Atlantic ticket office and booked
a double berth for to-morrow.
Wednesday,  March. 25th.
Went again to the Chicago and Atlantic office and
changed my sleeper to to-night's train. Spent the day
walking about Chicago. It is full of magnificent buildings,
but the paving of the streets is execrable. There is a
large building on the shore of Lake Michigan in which
an air ship is supposed to be seen every 15 minutes.    I New  York.
believe it is a fraud; however, it was blowing a gale on
the lake and I could not see very much. It was bitterly
cold and wretched ; everybody seemed to be sneezing and
coughing. A most absurd account appeared in the papers
about our visit to this citv ; I have cut one out and am
taking it home. After dining in the hotel we went on
board the train at 7 p.m. Very good station, The " Deer-
hound " on Polk Street; disgustingly uncivil conductor,
who gave himself absurd airs. He had a huge mustache
and evidently thought a great deal of it; it was outrageous the way he behaved.
Thursday, March 26th.
Passed a pretty good night, and at noon a perfect colony
of huge oil vats that looked like gasometers scattered all
over the plain. These supply New York with coal oil
laid on by pipes. This district is where the great oil supply
comes from. Had to get off the train for meals ; it was
a beastly nuisance, especially as I was suffering from
1 Grippe." Filthy bad food they gave us too. Passed
the wreck of the two trains that collided last night; one
was a passenger, the other a goods', and they met each
other at full speed. Both engines were driven 30 feet
right up the bank, and most of the cars were broken into
little pieces. A married couple joined us to-day, and left
later on. They behaved in the most absurd manner, and
though they seemed a pretty decent sort, they w ere awfully
shy, and evidently knew that we all kept rudely staring at
Friday, March. 27th.
Arrived in Jersey City at 7 a.m., and having transferred
baggage, crossed the river to New York. Beastly cold this
morning; awfully seedy with the " Grippe." Went to the
Cosmopolitan Hotel in Chambers Street and had breakfast. Left Winnie in the drawing room and went down to
the Cunard office, where I changed my ticket. Returned
to the hotel and went with Frida to see if our luggage was
all right; found it had not arrived, so after finding our
cabin and looking over the ship, we returned to the hotel.
Had lunch and went on board again at 6 p.m., as we were f^^f^mttr
48 Leaving New York for Home.
both tired and I was really ill; turned in very early.
Bitterly cold in New York to-day. Saw a tram car get
whisked off the rails in a block and sent whizzing down
the street. New York looks only half the city that
Chicago does.
Saturday, March 28th.
Were still in bed this morning and fast asleep when we
left our wharf in New York, and onlv turned out in time
for the last breakfast at 10 p.m., when we were on the
point of "discharging our pilot; a very neat litttle reefed
schooner taking him off. Blowing pretty fresh all day ;
too cold for me to go on deck. Our cabin is very comfortable, and this is a splendid ship. The North German
Lloyd s.s. Saale, simply walked past us during the morning.
The passengers on board us seem to think this quite a
second class ship. There is absolutely no motion, vibration or otherwise in our cabin; we are right forward, in
the forepart, to tell the truth.
Sunday, March 29th.
Service at 10-30, which we attended. Doctor read it.
All the ladies too ill to play the piano, so had to do without hymns, although it is Easter Day. Run 380 miles
from Sandy Hook. Feeding is very good, unfortunately
we can neither of us eat much on account of the " Grippe"
from which we are suffering. Pretty heavy beam sea, but
we neither roll or pitch, she is wonderfully steady.
Monday, March 30th.
Run 348 miles; considered bad for this boat; quite
fast enough for us however. Turned out fine and warm
for an hour after lunch, so we ventured out on deck for
half an hour. Am just a little better to-day, though
Frida is rather seedy. Our cabin is awfully comfortable,
I never slept in a nicer bunk. Heavy beam sea all day.
We are keeping a very southerly course, 41° N- at noon today.    Doctor not a bad sort. ititrV.
Wifr**ljU>h^ k!\ ■
By Thos. Calvekt.
Just before eight bells,
Cape Virgin we did pass ?
But look I e're so closely,
I could not see a lass.
They say the Patagonian maids
Go there their clothes to dry,
But though I used the telescope,
No damsel could I spy.
Cape Virgin passed, we soon espied
A beacon on our starboard side;
With coloured bands of red and white,
Some twelve miles off, we got a sight.
Possession Bay we steer for now
And mark off shoals on either bow.
To guide her course and shoals escape,
To westward of Possession Cape,
Another beacon rose its head,
Still in the colours, white and red.
Cape Orange and Delgada Point,
The cold doth stiffen every joint;
Now, care's required her course to steer,
For the Narrows right in front appear.
The Channel it is ten miles long.
Go on you must, blow light or strong;
But safely through, a rest you get,
Although the weather's very wet.
Now " Asses' Ears " you get a view,
Direction Hill! three boulders, too !
The Captain, always on the Bridge,
Takes note of tide, wind, mountain, ridge.
Again a broad expanse we reach,
Some seven miles from beach to beach;
Wood's settlement, quite near the shore—
I think I've heard that name before.
The Chilian flag he hoists en high,
With British ensign we reply.
Cape Gregory, now, we give wide berth,
Likewise the land of fiery earth.
The second Narrows are now in sight,
Our way still good, and lots of light; m?u*&mi§f>
Of Channels now to choose, we've two,
-One's called the " Queen's, the other, "New.'
The latter is the most direct,
The Captain's judgment most~correct.
Sandy Point we made at two,
And frequently our whistle blew;
But no response being made from shore,
We've ceased to blow it any more.
At anchor, till we cleared our way,
At eight bells sailed, that self-same clay;
As from our moorings we did part,
The Iris also made a start.
We ran her close for near a mile,
And then she forged ahead in style.
Three discs she shows; we come up grand,
The Iris she has lost command.
But shortly she begins to move,
And surely doth her sailing prove
That she is faster, there's no doubt,
So once again we keep look out.
Now right ahead, eight miles or so,
Appears in sight Cape '' Isidro."
Off Glascett Point we saw a whale
Seventy feet from snout to tail.
Straight ahead we see Cape Fro ward.
It here began to rain and blow' hard.
Bays Snug, Woods, Boya and Fortescue,
Where, if you ground, 'tis hard to rescue.
To enter Crooked Reach we're ready;
" Port, it is, sir.    Steady !  Steady !"
Glaciers bright—stupendous !—grand! .
Assails the eye on every hand.
For " Field " anchorage then we steer,
Some " Banks of Clyde" doth me much cheer.
At half-past one, when fast asleep,
A powerful voice both loud and deep,
" A boat 'longside with natives, now, sir !"
I quickly donned coat, vest and trowser.
It rained, it snowed, 'twas very dark ;
'• Two men, a wife," without a sark !
They had no skins except their own,
The electric light upon them shone.
" Bacca, bacca," they did cackle,
But we their lingo could not tackle.
■SB m&^m^JmS^^I^SMtSilESLLi
They had no skins with us to barter,
The wife had none—not e'en a garter.
We gave them pipes and some tobacco.
Some other day, they'd bring *huanaco.
We sailed again at half-past two,
'Twas cold, 'twas dark, and misty too.
Sea being smooth and weather bright,
We pass Smythe's Channel on our right,
But shortly it did blow terrific,
As we did steer for the Pacific j
Four miles an hour —losing ground,
Cape Pillar passed, we turn right round.
Magellan Straits doth end my lay,
I'll write some more some other day.
Smythe's Channel now, we steer for right,
The wind abaft, we're soon in sight;
Winding, curving, twisting, curling.
Rounding, bounding, sounding, whirling,
Sometimes twenty yards from shore,
But always rocks, behind ! before !
No way at times you'd see to windward;
Land-locked, forward, backward, inward ;
But by his route, the captain shows,
The marks and buoys he truly knows.
The bell invites us now to dine,
We'll view again this huge Loch Fyne.
Some Patagonians now we spy,
Right in our track their boat doth lie;
No time to waste, no speed abating,
They're left behind gesticulating.
The Landsman stands lashed to the side,
The engines eased, we gently glide ;
" By the mark fifteen " he sings out
" Let go !"   " It's gone " the mate doth shout;
So safely anchored for the night,
The watch is set and all made right.
Old stories stale, that round the Horn,
Sometimes at night, or early morn,
♦Pronounced Wanacha. The " Flying Dutchman " he doth sail,
But now I tell a different tale.
We met him in the Straits to-night,
Before us—with a bright stern light
Shining just abaft his spanker,
In the cove where we dropped anchor.
He came alongside in his boat,
And having coughed to clear his throat,
He hailed the Captain " How you vas,"
The Captain he no German has.
A roll of paper 'neath his arm,
His presence did not us alarm ;
A chart he merely wished to borrow,
To guide him on his course to-morrow;
The one he had was very small,
It hardly was a guide at all.
The Captain said " Pray come on board."
He did ; the chart room is well stored;
He quickly copied all he wanted,
Which being done, he then levanted.
The sailors who rowed him on board
Saw our two pens, with sheep well stored ;
One, with a sigh of anguish deep,
Said, li We've no mutton on our sheep."
Forward at noon, our course we make,
The Dutchman sailing in our wake.
Strange-named mountains of all types;
Mountain, ladder, and organ pipes.
Of Trinidad Gulf we now are clear;
Pacific swell doth now appear;
Now like a mountain, then like a dell,
Till we met Captain Scott in Coronel.
Printed by W. P. Piatt, 82, Moorflelds, Liverpool.    


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