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A trip to the far west of British Columbia. A 13,000 miles tour Burall, W. T. 1891

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W. Earl, Printer, Wisbech. 
Royal Mail Steamers.
Direct and Shortest Route to Canada.

To  QHEBE0  and MONTREAL  (in Summer),
To  PORTLAND,  maine,  (in Winter).
Thèse Steamers ave amongst the largest and fastest afloat, and are well and fâvourably
known for the comfort and excellent arrangements they afford for ail classes of Passengers.
The "VANCOUVER," '-LABRADOR," "OREGON,""and "SARNIA," hâve Saloons
andStaterooms amidships where least motion is felt. The "VANCOUVER" & "LABRADOR"
are fitted throughout with the Electric Light.
The SECOND CABIN (tntermediate) accommodation is specially comfortable, a libéral
and varied bill of fare; and everything necessary for the voyage %eing provided.
STEERAGE PASSENGERS will find their comfort and convenience specially studied.'the
sleeping rooms, containing a limited namber in each, being well lighted, heated, and thoroughly
ventàlated. An abundant supply of Provisions of the best quality, cooked and served up by the
Cempany's Servants.
Surgeon, Stewardesses and Stcerage Matron on each Steamer.
Spécial low Rates to ail Points in Ontario, Mana^tobia, thé Great North-West & Brifâsh Colnmbia
:er tfrough
of the Pas-
thns avoid-
is through
land, when
:. There is
3f Baggage
i Colnmbia.
The trains run at<
the City. A Spec
sengers. Baggag
ing ail trouble.
Britïsh Territory
Luggage is bond(
no change of Car
is allowed to Passi
Sleeping Cars prc
Passengers are strongly recommended to purchase Tickets as early as possible from local
Agents before leaving home, as no réduction whatever can be got by waiting to book at port of
FoYfurthPi- particutars apply to FLINN/MAIN & MONTGOMERY,^4,
James t^treefc Liverpool, and 70 Queen Square, Bristol. A TRIP TO THE FAR WEST
A   13,000  MILES  TOUR.
WILLIAM   EARL,   16,  Church Terrace. Since my return from British Columbia, paragraphs relating to my trip
hâve appeared in several papers, including " Answers," " The Timber Trade
Journal," "The Grocers' Journal," "The Wisbech Standard," "The Royal
Cornwall Gazette," " The Vancouver Weekly World," and an eight column
account in the " Wisbech Advertiser." At the request of a number of
friends who thought it worth re-printing, I hâve reproduced it in pamphlet
form, illustrating the same with Views kindly lent by the Canadian Pacific
Railway Campany, and hope the description of the Journey, however imperfectly
given, vrill be read with interest.
HEN"I fîrst thought of taking the journey to
Vancouver I intended to go by one of the three
new steamers that were built in this country for
the Canadian Pacific Railway Company to trade
between Yokohama and Vancouver. That, how-
ever, would hâve entailed a voyage of 2i,ooo
miles and occupy two months, therefore, thinking
like the Irishman that although the sea and sky are very
pretty in themselves, they are not such great things when
you hâve nothing else to look upon for a month or two
together, I decided to go by way of Liverpool and Montréal,
thence by the Canadian Pacific Railway, and left Wisbech on
May 27th, the boat departing on the following day. At
Liverpool many interesting incidents were noted. First
the arrivai of emigrants to join their respective steamers—
Russian Jews in great numbers, carrying with them their
bedding, baggage, tin cans, kettles, in fact ail their worldly
possessions ; hundreds of little boys and girls from
orphanages and schools, under the protection of ladies,
&c. The separating and counting of the children of the
différent schools was most amusing, for as fast as the séparation was
completed, they persisted in getting mixed again. Then there was the médical
inspection. Ail the emigrants were called to one end of the ship, the doctor
looking each well in the face as they passed him one by one. One man had a fit
before he went on board and was refused passage. In addition, the sailors'
roll-call was interesting, and last but not least came the farewell of friends.
Visitors are ordered on shore, ropes cast off, and we steam out of the Mersey in
the drizzling rain, the passengers eagerly scanning the shore to catch the last
glimpse of old faces, perhaps for ever. At the sound of the gong we go down to
dinner, and find on our plates a printed list of the names of the passengers in our
saloon, and in this way the introduction to each other is effected. It was intended
the steamer should carry the mails, but something occurred which upset this
arrangement. At the last moment two bags only were brought on board, one
containing a newspaper and the other a letter. There was some hidden meaning
in this which we did not hear explained, for as a rule there are hundreds of bags,
"weigning many tons. The steamship Vancouver is the finest vessel on the
Dominion line. One might go into every nook and corner of a small town
in less time than would be occupied in inspecting the various departments of this
magnificent steamer. In addition to 4,000 tons of cargo, she will accommodate
1,000 passengers. Her crew are 150 in number. The steamer is furnished
throughout most elaborately, and the comfort of the poorest, as well as the
richest, is equally well looked after. The saloon resembles a splendidly-equipped
dining-room.    The wood-work is mahogany, inlaid with différent coloured woods TKIP TO BRITISH COLVMBlA.
of various designs ; the floors are beautifully carpeted, and the curtains are of a
most costly descripticn. It is heated by steam pipes, which in ail the rooms and
cabins, are of polished brass. When ail are seated at table it présents a lively
appearance. A number of hot-house plants, ferns, and flowers, on the tables,'
sideboards, and stairs, add a cheerful appearance to the scène. The berths are
fitted with electric light and bells. By pressing a button you can call a steward,
by twisting another illuminate your room. There are smoke rooms, ladies'
sitting rooms, music room, barber's shop, and bath room, and many indulge
in a refreshing dip in hot or cold sea water every morning. In fact there is
everything calculated to enchance the pleasure of the voyage.    We experienced
The Vancouve
a delightful time, except for an occasional squall. Various games were indulged
in—shuffle board, quoits, footracing, tugs of war, parlour games, whilst there
were also grand concerts and dancing. Nor were the steerage passengers
forgotten, being entertained in various ways. In our saloon we had a clergyman
who knew Wisbech, a gênerai, a judge, several commercial travellers, and
farmers, and owners of ranches who had been home on visits. At a concert
given in aid of the Sailors' Orphan Home £14. was collected, but the purser told
us they had taken as much as ^70 at a time. Many would go miles on shore
to hear such music and singing. The -general's wife presided at the piano.
There were three young fellows who were going to the far West of Canada
to take up land on the prairies, who by the manner in which they were armed
were evidently prepared for a rough time. Each carried a breech loading rifle, a
revolver, dagger, and an axe. What they thought of America I don't know, but
supposed they had heard of the attitude of the Indians. One we christened
Buffalo Bill ; the others Robinson Crusoe and Friday. Nearly ail day long they
were firing off their guns, wing sport being bottles thrown into the air, and ground
or rather water game, empty barrels fastened to a rope and thrown overboard, as
the captain would not allow them to shoot gulls or other sea birds. Every day
brought something new, but no morning papers. It was a novel expérience to be
thus eut off from the world ; no wars or rumours of wars, murders or suicides.
For the first few days the doctor was busily engaged attending to the sick. " It's
an ill wind that blows nobody good," and the greater amount of sickness the
less work for the cooks. I was fortunate in this respect. On Sunday we had
service in the saloon, about 300 being présent, and as usual a collection was niade
for the Sailors' Orphan Home. The preacher was the Rev. Mr. Toolis, of
Soham, the text being " For those that go down to the sea in ships," with hymns
equally appropriate. During our passage several large birds and fish were seen,
and one whale, but not the sea-serpent, whilst several Mother Carey's chickens
came on deck. One day a gale suddenly sprang up about dinner time; the
vessel gave a lurch and cleared the tables. The smashing of glass and
crockeryware could be heard ail over the ship. After this the racks were
put on. The vessel carries a large reserve stock of earthenware, and the tables
were soon replenished. A squall like this means a loss of many pounds, as everything is of the best quality and bears the name of the ship. When I awoke one
night, the engines were stopped, and we were delayed two hours in order that the
piston might be packed. Off St. John's, Newfoundland, we passed an iceberg
about 100 feet high, and longer than our ship. It was a grand sight as it moved
slowly in the waters, glistening in the sun  like a hill of silver.    On the 5th of THE VOYAGE A CROSS THE ATLANTIC. 5
Tune we sighted laud and were soon in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, with
Newfoundland on one side and Brenton and Magdalen Islands on the other,
where we took up a pilot, who gave the captain several newspapers, which the
iudge and gênerai read aloud in the smoke room. The first news we hear is the
illness of Sir John Macdonald and the récent Baccarat scandai—our funny man
asking us the différence between racing in England and America.    Ail give it up,
P-   »
Outward Bound.
and the answer is given that in America they back horses, in England they
Bacc-a-rat. From this point until we reach Québec we are continually passing
French settlers' farms, fishermen's huts and quaint looking villages, with snow-
capped mountains in the distance.
On Saturday, June 6th, at 3 a.m., we arrive at Québec, and after an early
breakfast, many of our passengers land. I took a stroll through the city, but it
being early no shops were open, and everywhere was quiet. At 7 a.m., we
again steamed ahead, and hâve a 140 mile run up the river St. Lawrence, with the
grandest scenery on each side which it is possible to imagine. Hère are forests
of spruce, there artistic dwellings of French Canadian settlers ; handsome
churches, beautifully painted. many of the steeples being gilded, glitter in the sun
like virgin gold. Àway in the distance are hills and valleys with a background of
snow-capped mountains. At eight in the evening we are at the dock at
Montréal, and hâve already our oaibin luggage on deck. Bidding friends good bye,
we go on shore, where thousan-ds of people Une the quays. The Custom House
officers are also hère to examine our boxes, and now begins the excitement.
Speaking for myself, it was not so great a trouble as I had anticipated. Although
several had duty to pay, one lady, who with her family were going to the far
West, thoughtfully provided herself with a chestof medicines, Silverbrooktea and
other requisites, fearing they could not be obtained in the new country ; being
settlers) duty was not imposed.    The examination over, my baggage is transferred 6 A TRIP TO BRITISH COLUMBIA.
to a conveyance, and taken to the dépôt of the Canadian Pacific Railway, and we make
for our respective hôtels. I sélect the St. Lawrence Hall, where on arrivai I find at
least a dozen of my fellow passengers who had preceded me. After entering our
names in the visitors' book, and receiving the key of our room—which in the hôtel
number altogether 500, fitted with electric light and bells—we take a hasty meal
and walk out to see what Montréal is like on a Saturday night. Many of the
business establishments are still open, and were it not for the différence in the
language, the number of Catholic image shops, and the thousands of French
settlers, together with people of ail nationalities, we could almost imagine
ourselves in Regent-street, London, so large are the buildings and attractive the
shops. The streets are clean, chiefly asphalt. The trams are busy, as people
are now returning to their homes. Hotels and ail public-houses—or saloons, as
they are called—close early, and are not opened again until six on the Monday.
I afterwards learned that Sunday closing is most strictly observed. For supplying
a glass of any strong drink, the fine is 100 dollars for the first offence and three
months' imprisonment for the second. We could not get a glass of milk
without going to our bedrooms and having it brought there. On going into the
streets on Sunday morning, " Sir John Macdonald is dead," was on everybody's
lips, and large placards announced the fact everywhere. The life-sized portrait of
the deceased premier was exhibited in many of the Windows, which were draped in
black. I determined to make the most of my stay in Montréal, and with a
fellow passenger I first visited the Notre Dame, a handsome Catholic place of
worship, where a service was being conducted. Everv seat was occupied, and
hundreds were standing. The appearance of the place was most gorgeous and
like a blaze of gold and rich colouring. We also saw St. Peter's, a new Catholic
Cathedral, which is an exact model of St. Peter's at Rome, though not so large.
In the streets were hundreds of grey nuns, who are dressed in a material of that
colour. The society to which they belong is said to be the richest in the world.
There are numerous Catholic school children walking in twos, going to or
returning from their places of worship, ail dressed in black, with plain black straw
hats, and fat jolly-looking priests with girdles round their waists. After lunch,
we drove in a two-horse buggy (nearly ail the Street conveyances are drawn by
two horses) to Mount Royal, overlooking Montréal. We passed the cemetery,
where the following curious epitaph was noticed on a monument erected by an old
pensioner in remembrance of his wife, "This is in memory of my dear wife. She
was a good kind créature ; so are ail her brothers and sisters, especially her sister
Eliza." It is almost needless to add that the pensioner has since married Eiiza..
A grand view of the city is obtained from Mount Royal, with the river St.
Lawrence and falls. The houses hère are painted in very bright colors, and are nicely
sheltered from the sun by trees. Field glasses are let out on hire on a small
charge, and by their aid ail the principal buildings can be plainly seen. Mounted
police are stationed at différent points to keep order, for thousands of people visit
the place on Sundays ; some are walking, others on horseback, but the majority
are driving in buggies. The horses are of a différent class to the English, being
lighter and faster—too fast, I thought, especially when going down the hills, which
are very steep. We reach our hôtel in time for dinner at six, and spend the
remainder of the evening sitting about the waiting rooms or strolling up and
down the halls. The Salvation Army parades the street outside. As the train
going to the far west did not leave until the Monday evening, I had another day
to look round, and early next morning I accompanied Mr. Samuel Ward, of Birmingham, who was acquainted with the proprietors of two large provision establishments, where thousands of pigs and bullocks are killed every week. I spent an hour
or two at the first one, seeing the slaughtered animais brought in and eut up, washed
and packed in barrels in the cellars, where it was so cold that icicles hung from the
ceilings and waterpipes. We also inspect the Canadian Tin Méat Packing Co.'s
warehouses. Thèse are immense places, and it was very interesting to watch the
différent processes of making and tinning potted méats and sausages (of which
8,000 lbs. are manufactured in an hour) ; also the lard-rending, tongue-preserving,
soup-boiling, stitching hams in canvas, cutting, bending, and soldering tins by
iriachinery, box-making for packing goods for exporting, &c.    U was now time to FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC.
be moving, and thanking our conductor for his kindness, we returned to dinner,
and soon after go per buggy to the Canadian and Pacific Railway Station, on our.
way passing a crowd of people looking in a shop window at a beautiful wreath
which  the Princess Louise had  ordered by cablegram to be placed on the coffin
of Sir John Macdonald.
I have y et the longest part of my journey before me. We spend six
days and six nights in the cars, and travel 2906 miles without changing.
I find several cars klready filled, three being especially assigned to a
number of, emigrants. Others are occupied by a rather mixed lot, and
as   it    is    true    that    " birds   of   a   feather   flock   together "   so   it   is   with
I m
Sleeping Car.
people travelling. At last I find myself comfortably seated in a car with two or
three Englishmen, who left Liverpool on the same day that I did, by another
boat. On the platform were stacks of mattresses for sale, many persons not
caring to give an additional three dollars a night for a sleeping berth. 1 may
mention that we leave Montréal with one engine, a driver, stoker, brakeman,
baggage man, conductor, cook, pantryman, waiter, porter, and a newsman, that we
change engines and staff twenty-six times, and, in addition, at one point two extra
engines  are coupled on, one of whkh weighed over   ioo tons and  had twelve 8 A TRIP TO BRITISH COLUMBIA.
wheels, built expressly for pulling the train up steep grades. Three hundred and
six stations are passed ; they are situated at greater distances apart than in
England. Refreshment stations are marked on the time table which each
passenger is supplied with. Time changes by our watches four times, and I might
also add, so does the climate. From Montréal to Port Arthur it is called Eastern
time : Port  Arthur  to  Brandon, Central time ;   Brandon to  Donald, Mountain
Dining Car.
time ; Donald to Vancouver, Pacific time. When it is twelve noon at Montréal, it
is eleven at Winnipeg, ten at Regina and nine at Vancouver, so we lose three
hours. It is now 8-30 p.m., but by my watch, which has not been altered since I
left England it is 2 a.m. the following day—a différence of 54 hours. " AÎl on
board" shouts the conductor ; the cowbell on the engine rings and we are off.    It FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC. 9
is a lovely evening, but as it soon begins to get dark, Montréal can only be seen
by gas, or rather electric light, which is a pretty sight. Many of the passengers
hâve already retired, and we think about doing the same. A sleeping car can
accommodate sixty people, two in a birth. The seats are arranged in pairs,
facing one another, on each side of the car, and so made that they can be joined
in a berth. Over each pair of seats are upper berths, hinged against the sides of
the cars, which can be let down, and so form another sleeping berth. Thèse can
be soon arranged. Passengers can walk from end to end of the train, and as
there are fifteen carriages, each 60 ft. in length, this is quite a walk in itself. A
dining car also forms part of the train, in which meals are provided at seventy-five
cents., or 3s. each, but many passengers obtain a week's supply before starting.
Books and papers were every day distributed amongst the passengers. Being tired, I
was very soon asleep, but not for long, for the conductor awakes us to examine
our tickets, as he had not supplied us with check tickets (a small card which you
place in your hat or lay on the berth, to show that you are there for the night),
This is because our railway tickets are too large to produce always, being more
than a foot in length. The inspection over, we are just dozing off again, when he
repeats his request " Tickets please," at the same time giving a tug to awake
you—this time to punch the ticket and make sure that no passenger passes his
proper station. He evidently saw we were greenhorns, and would hâve been
severely reprimanded for his over-officiousness if it had been reported. In
an hour's time he again wàkes us to punch tickets, and we feel very much like
punching him. Next day, we felt only slightly refreshed for our first night in
a sleeping car, but after this we fare better, as each conductor as he cornes on
board morning and evening gives us the necessary checks. I may mention that
this line is noted for the civility and politeness of their servants, the officiai
referred to being an exception.
Awaking in my berth, on the second day, Tuesday, I find we hâve passed
twenty stations, including Ottawa, a fine town of 40,000 inhabitants. On the
Ottawa river, quantifies of timber and logs are observed floating in the water,
and saw-mills are erected on the banks. Early in the morning numbers of people
are fishing in the lakes. Between hère and North Bay thirty-seven stations are
passed, also the Snake river, Chalk river, Bass lake, and Moor lake, and are
soon at North Bay, a town on Lake Nippiseg, which is fourteen miles long and
ten miles wide. From hère to Sudbury, the région is very wild, there being
pine forests, meadows, and lakes. The scenery is beautiful, and in some places
reminds one of Matlock, others of Killarny. From Sudbury to Jack Fish, the
train rushes past thirty-one more stations, crossing Sturgeon Falls, also
Dog Lake, the waters of which empty into Lake Superior. From
Jack Fish to Port Arthur the course for 150 miles is close to Lake
Superior. For 100 miles we are carried along the shore, abounding in deep
rocks, viaduçts, and tunnels. The constantly changing views are charming.
Before reaching Fort William, we turn round a high red cliff, where
Thunder Bay can be seen. At 14-30 a hait is made at Fort William
for refreshments. The time is three-quarters of an hour behind, and called
central time. Some pf the passengers alter their watches accordingly. Leaving
Fort William, the route for a long distance is by the rapids, and hère and there
oxen drawing farmers' carts may be seen. We hâve now travelled 998 miles.
From hère to Winnipeg is 426 miles—a wild, broken country of rocks, rivers,
lakes, and valleys. At four in the afternoon forests are seen on fire, so close does
the track lay to them that the Windows hâve to be closed owing to the heat. The
occupants of a train which passes us at this point say that they hâve been delayed
four hours as the fire was raging so close to the line. Only those who hâve seen
a forest fire can imagine what a fearfully grand sight it is. Sometimes the heat
is so great that the rails are bent and trains thrown off the line. The blazing and
crackling is terrible. For 100 miles we hurry by burning trees which are a
mass of flame from the top to the ground. Where fires hâve previously been,
the trees appear as so many tens of thousands of huge telegraph pôles. Leaving
our berths on Wednesday, burning trees are still to be seen. About hère we catch
sight of the first Indians.    It is not yet five in the morning, but several were in (■- '
canoës fishing, others on shore. The squaws had babies or papooses on their backs.
Their canoës are of their own make, made from the bark of trees. Indians corne
on the platforms and the train. Their curious wigwams can be seen from the
cars ; they are rn^de of canvas, and are black with smoke. Several farms and log
huts are observed as we continue our journey.    Part  of the land looks good, but a
great deal was under water. A gentleman on the cars said the land would be dry
in another month, and thirty-five to forty bushels of wheat per acre could be grown
on it. This brought forth the remark from another passenger that forty bushels of
water-cress looked more likely. Up to Rat Portage the scenery is of the wildest
description, occasionally there are saw mills and water-courses where the timber
is being floated down froni the mpuntajus to the water below.   Thèse saw mills FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC.
are situated at the foot of the mountains, and the water which rushes down is
utilized to work the machinery. The railway being in close proximity, the wood
is easily disposed of. Ail along the line are hundreds of tons of short logs, used
by the engines for fuel. Frogs in thousands can be heard above the noise of the
train. They make a whistling sound, and at a sign from their leader, the noise at
once ceases. The train is stopped, and several of thèse créatures caught and
inspected by the passengers. On the Thursday several large wild Indian dogs
followed the train for miles, and when it stopped, hung about the dining room car
for bones or anything they could get. It was a gênerai rule for thèse dogs to do
this, and they were on the look out for the train. They followed after we again
started for at least twenty miles, like gulls after a steamer. Ail along the track
were strewn thousands of empty méat and fish tins, which had been flung from the
cars by the passengers. Whilst the train was proceeding, a lad pulled the
communication cord. On the train stopping, the conductor enquired what was
the matter, when the lad coolly told him that he had lost his cap, and he at once
ran back after it ! The journey to Winnipeg was accomplished at 14-20—1,420
miles from Montréal. Refreshments were hère provided instead of in the dining
car, and I took the opportunity of telegraphing to my friends at Vancouver, saying
that I hoped to reach there on the following Sunday at noon. I paid a dollar for
ten words. Winnipeg has a population of 28,000, and is the capital of Manitoba
In 1875 the population was 100 only. It is near the Assinobian river; there are
street trains and electric lights. Land agents are hère in plenty and enter the cars,
distributing maps and pamphlets, containing information about lands for disposai.
Land can be had for little or nothing, some distance from the line. We can see
men at work on the land late at night, and early in the morning. At 15-20 we
again join the cars, having still 1482 miles to travel. One passenger who got on
hère said he was not going far, but I know he went more than 500 miles. From
Winnipeg to Brandon the country is level, and occupied generally by farmers.
Log-huts are numerous, and we pass several flour mills, factories, and immense
grain elevators. We see cowboys and admire their splendid riding. Their life
seems to be a free and joyous one. At Brandon time again changes. The town
is six years old and has 5,400 inhabitants. At Indian Head a large number of
Red Indians corne into view ; they were a wild looking tribe, picturesque, but
dirty, and on the train pulling up, enter the cars and cffer for sale polished
buffalo horns, which many of the passengers purchase. Thèse people were
very scantily clad and can run almost as fast as the train.    Mounted police are mm
stationed hère to keep the Indians in order, and they warn the passengers
against giving them "fire water," for which offence the penalty is a fine of 50
dois., or three months' imprisonment. I gave two Indian women a common
brass ring, such as are sometimes found in packets of tea. A crowd of others
soon besieged me, making signs that they wanted one as well. I pretended
they were valuable, showing them a 25 cent, pièce, at the same time pointing
to the rings. They at once took them from their Angers and wanted to exchange
them for the coins, they were not so "green" as I took them to be. One night,
there was very iittle sleep for the occupants of the car, for numbered amongst
the passengers were five babies. This was a lively time, and I got up several
times to assist their mothers in pacifying them. At this part of the journey we
saw wild ducks, geese, and eagles in numbers, and occasionally an antelope. We
are now well on the prairies. The furrows on some of the farms are said to be
four miles long, and to plough one and back is half-a-day's work. At Medicine
Hat the track is continually successive up and down grades. At this place are
the mpunted police barracks. 200 miles are passed without a tree being
seen.    Buffaloes were hère formerly to be seen in herds, but it is a rare thing
now to see one : so many hâve been killed by hunters that the remainder
are driven into the bush. Passengers used to shoot them from the cars,
and their wallows are observed in ail directions, also thousands of their
skulls with horns ail complète. Large stacks of thèse may also be seen at several
stations, and the Canadian Government pays the Indians eight dollars per ton for
collecting them. At several Finlanders' farms past which we are whisked it is
noticed that oxen are employed instead of horses. Large numbers of Indians
corne in sight, some on horseback, galloping across the prairies ; others lolling
about their wigwams. It looks a wild place for white men to settle down in, but
many do and make money. Farmers will go a long way for a labourer, will pay
him two-and-a-half dollars per day and his board, in ail weathers, and make as
much fuss of him as their best friend. This was told me by a labourer on the
cars. Land can be bought hère for a dollar an acre. In a paper recently read
before the Ottawa Field Naturalists Club by Dr. G. Dawson, it was stated
that the unexplored and unoccupied régions of Canada is nearly one million
square miles. From Thursday mid-day to Friday evening we were going over
the prairies. It is an océan of grass, extending for hundreds of miles in ail
directions.    The sunset on Friday evening was a beautiful sight, and the night FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC.
was illuminated by lightning. Our attention was called about one p.m. to a great
light in the distance, and on approaching, we ascertain that it is caused by
a natural gas spring, which was lighted five years ago, and has been burning
uninterruptedly ever since, its light being seen for miles. A prairie station is a
wood hut, in which one man lives, and there is also a large water tank for
supplying the engine and cars. On awakening on the Saturday at 3, the
température was very low, and we were told that the train was approaching the
Rockies. Several of the passengers were soon up, eager to get an early
glimpse of the monsters. They can be seen quite close, to ail appearance, but
they are still 100 miles distant. Fires are lighted in the cars, and we soon
steam into Calgary, 3,338 feet above the level 6t the sea. This is a great
ranching country, which is betokend by the herds of horses and flocks of sheep on
the hills and in the valleys. Soon this is superseded by a broken country, with
numerous ravines; lakes become more fréquent, some are sait, others alkaline.
Then we draw *near to the Rocky Mountains, which are a sight never to be
forgotten. K How are we to get through them ? " is the first thought that occurs
to us, for no gap can we see. The next station is 4,100 feet altitude; the
mountains themselves are 10,000 feet above us. This was the most difncult part
of the line the engineer had to encounter. In 1875 the Canadian Government
first began to construct this line, but meeting with difficulties, in 1880 the présent
Company undertook to carry it out, receiving from the Government 25,000,000
dollars and 25,000,000 acres of agricultural land in addition to the hundreds of miles
of railway already laid for undertaking to complète the line in ten years.
But they finished in five. Observation cars are put on at this stage, that the
excursionists may view the scenery without interruption. This car is
a long one, without any framework, and a long seat runs down the
centre. But Sîe 'latter is not often used, as everyone wants to see
each object of interest, so that the si des of the car are crowded with
passengers. Mountain after mountain rises higher and higher, and as
fast as we pass one range a whole host of others appear, surpassing in
height and grandeur ail previous ones. The summits are ail covered with snow.
Many are a mile, some "two or even three miles in height. By the side of thèse the
largest of the Alps fades into insignificance. There are glaciers or mountains of
ice that hâve been hère fSr centuries, thousands of feet high and thousands of feet
thick, said té^e-lasger than ail the glaciers in Switzerland combined.
No record on earth discovers their birth ;
Long reign they in solitude, silence, and death.
This kind of "scenery continues for 400 miles, and is not lost sight of until
Vancouver is reached. The summits of many of thèse mountains cannot be
seen, owing to their -berog obscured by clouds. One is overtaken by a weird
feeling of loneliness in the présence of thèse silent monsters, as they frown down
upon us. Wild goats are on the distant cliffs and far away are the cascade
mountains, which are tremendously grand. The country through which we are
now journeying is inhabited by Blackfeet Indians, the most handsome and war-
like of the Indian tribes. Several bears attract attention at one station where we
stop. Near to is a military hospitaj, whilst on. the bear's den is seen the following
inscription : " Pray friends give wêiat you can spare to the Hospital, and I will for
ever hug your memery as only a bear can." Several of our party stroll through
the village and mafce purchases of eatables, such as tinned méats, and other
necessaries. Ofring to the heavy duties imposed, everything is dear, in some
casés double 'fîtàt in England, oae of our party getting to high words with the
store keeper for charging twenty-five cents for a small tin of Keen's Mustard.
Three scantily-clothed Indians were in the stores, .exchanging buffalo horns
for groceries. Whilst hère, we came across a big Indian, very tall, and
proud in his bearing. We took him to be an Indian chief. His dress was a new
blanket, with a deep black and red border. There was a hole in one corner for
his head, and it was arranged so as to form a complète suit. He was smoking a
long pipe, and as he passed us, he said " How do," as plainly as he could. When,
howevec, we endeavoured to converse with him, we found " How do," was the H
full extent of his knowledge of the English language. We afterwards saw him
corne out of a butcher's shop with a quantity of bones and bits of odd méat in his
arms, and cross the road to his wigwam. Entering the car» again, the track
turns in a loop several times and each time we could see the line we had
previously traversed. It was like a winding stairs turning and twisting
higher and higher. At times we  rise  hundreds  of feet  to  the  mile.    Fourteen
miles of snow sheds are hère to be seen, placed against the mountains
to protect the line from snow drifts. Now and then we got out and
threw snowballs. The Glaicer House is a delightful hôtel, 4,000 feet
above the sea level. Sir Donald mountain is 8,000 feet above us, and
in a dark valley is a river fed by the glacier, glistening through the trees.    For A FIVE WEEKS' STAY AT VANCOUVÈÉ.
miles we follow the river, across deep ravines, and travelling by the side of
steep précipices. Sometimes the train appears literally to hang on the sides of the
mountains. Once the conductor noticed something wrong with the brakes.
The train was stopped, and looking under the cars, a young fellow was found
seated across the brake. How far he had travelled I don't know. The conductor
told him to " Be off, or he would get killed." He quickly made off across
country, but we were informed that he would no doubt wait until another train
came and finish his journey. Chinese now began to corne on board the cars
when we stopped, selling ail kinds of fruit and milk. Five cents is the smallest
coin in use. A number of young fellows visit us at one of the stations, and
we were told that they sometimes sat up ail night to see the train pass through.
Looking at me, one observed, " Poor fellow, he does look tired, he's asleep,"
but I had one eye open. From the cars can be seen at times a number of
Indians' graves, which are on a kind of platform, on which the body is placed,
and branches of trees form the only cover. Thèse places are situated on the
borders of the forest. We also noted a great number of graves of white men who
hâve died on the trail. Passengers now begin to cord their boxes, roll up their
rugs, put away their travelling caps and get ready for leaving the cars. I laugh
when I think of it, for we were still 200 miles from Vancouver..
At 14-30 Pacific time we are at our destination, and our expérience of the
longest through railway journey in the world is at an end.
Although it was Sunday when our train arrived at Vancouver, the station
was crowded with Chinese, Indians, ànd white people, who ail turn out to welcome
new corners. It afforded me much pleasure to find my friends waiting for
me. By my watch it was 11-30, so that nine hours had been lost since leaving
England. I left Liverpool on the 28th of May, and reached Vancouver on June
I4th. This was quick work compared with the time when the journey had to be
accomplished by sailing ships and took six months. After a few days' rest I
began to look round, and drove daily to the city. I was staying with my brother-in-
law, Alderman Brewer, three miles in the country. It was on the fifth anniversary
of the great fire at Vancouver that I reached there. On that mémorable day,
the city was completely burned to the ground and ruin and désolation reigned
where now stands a magnificent city. To many places such an appalling
disaster would hâve been a death blow. But to Vancouver it was only a shock
which, in its reaction, gave fresh life and impetus. Those who had never
heard of Vancouver before were now attracted by curiosity and sympathy. They
realised how many were its advantages, and upon the site of the old town
an idéal city was built. It has a magnificent harbour, inexhaustible timber
resources, unlimited fishing, to say nothing of the mines. Ail thèse were
critically inspected. Then came capital, and the foundation stones of the
great Pacific metropolis were laid. Had there been no more done than to
rebuild the city as it was previously to the fire, a great work would havê~been
accomplished, but to-day the terminal city is one of the proudest monuments
of British Columbia. The population is now 18,000 ; before the fire it was
600. It seems almost incredible to a stranger that so much could be
accomplished in five years. The prosperous position to which this young city
has attained is mainly owing to the enterprise and push of their popular Mayor
Oppeniemer, Alderman Templeton, and other councillors. Ail the houses within the
limits of the city are of brick and stone,and of beautifulworkmanship. In the suburbs
the buildings are chiefly of wood, and of a variety of designs, no two being alike. The
bright colours in which they are painted greatly add to their appearance. I was
much struck with the enormous size of the trees and with the number of fish that
could be seen in the lakes. I walked on a fallen tree which was 8ft.
through at the small end and 20oft. long. In the park are spruce trees
44ft. in circumference, firs 37ft., and cedars 53ft, and 30oft. high. In
the saw mills, timber is eut 4ft. square from end to end, and at the présent
time a pièce of timber is being prepared for the Milwaukee Brewing and
Malting Company, which is six feet square and n8ftlong.    This will be used
a\ i6
are   several   large  salmon
of   Chinese  are  employed.
and   hère  and  there from
at the World's Fair at Chicago as a counter for selling béer made by the
company. A party of census enumerators who had just returned from up
the country fouad whole families of Indians living in the trunks of trees, moss
overhanging the entrance. To get a better idea of the size of thèse trees,
let anyone measure a soft, circle on the road, and 30oft. length ; he will
hardly crédit it. Vancouver is a great place for salmon, and nearly ail .the
tinned salmon we get in this country cornes from thèse rivers. At times the
fish are so  numerous that they  become   tightly  wedged in  the lakes.      There
canneries along the banks where a great number
Some of the salmon weigh as much as 4olbs.,
7olbs. to 75lbs. I purchased one weighing i81bs.
for half-a-crown, and thought it cheap, but was told when I got back that such
a fish could frequently be bought for iod. Curiously enough, tinned salmon
hère is as dear as in England. The total pack of the Pacific coast in 1890
is given by a mercantile house largely in the business as follows, Alaska,
688,332 cases, Columbia River, 433,500, British Columbia, 399,912, Sacramento
River, 35,000, other small fisheries, 67,117. Total, 1,623,867 cases, containing
four dozen tins each. Bear, seal, otter, wolf, and other animais' skins exported
amount to millions of dollars annually. One evening, ,about six o'clock, I
went with my sister to fish in the lake about a mile from the house. The
mosquitoes bit us so that we turned to go back, but soon discovered that we had
missed the trail. We commenced to call out at the top of our voices, but it was
eleven o'clock before my brother-in-law found us. It is not at ail pleasant to be
lost in the bush. How to get out is a puzzle. A lost person may continue for a
week climbing over fallen trees, some six feet or eight feet through as they lie.
I was pleased I was not the only one to get lost, for a clergyman who had been
preaching in the afternoon at a settlement three miles from Vancouver was
returning to hold a service in his own church in the evening, when he missed
the trail, and did not get home until one o'clock in the morning. He used ail
the leaves of his prayer book to stick on the trees, that in his endeavours to find
the trail he might not go over the same ground again. This is called " blazing."
A young Englishman who had just arrived, and was accompanying a party of
old settlers in the wood—strayed away a few yards, and one of the party
said to the others " Let us keep quiet ; he won't be able to find us," neither
could he, but kept walking round and round. After a time one old settler
called out " Hallo, where hâve you been ? " " Oh," said he, " I hâve been miles,
and saw a bear; I wish I had had my rifle." He had not been out of sight
ail the time. Before leaving Wisbech, I was given the address of Mrs. Tite, who
will be remembered by many résidents in the town. She was very pleased to see
anyone from the old country, especially from Wisbech. Her house is pleasantly
situated in the suburbs and I spent some time there, calling on différent occasions.
I also met a Mr. Simpson, who lived with Messrs. Dawbarn and Sons 10 years
I ago. He hais now been in Vancouver some years, and is manager for the
i Hastings Mill stores, a large grocery and drapery establishment which supplies
the employés of the beforementioned mill (some hundreds in number). Mr.
Simpson holds an important position, and has numerous assistants and clerks
under him. He is also buyer for the firm, which holds a very large stock of
goods, as they can only be received twice a year from England, the voyage
occupying five or six months by water. It is curious how people meet. He was
asking for his letters at the Post Office, and seeing other letters with the Wisbech
post mark, found he knew me. From his house is obtained a beautiful view of
the harbour and a pretty village called Moodiville. I went there in a 'steam tug
and walked some miles in the forests. Not many years ago this was identified as
the backwoods of ïAmerica. Passing an Indian hut, I noticed through the open
door, a piano, or American organ ; there was no other furniture in the place.
Opposite Vancouver Harbour, which is two miles wide, is Mission, where
only Iadians réside. A great many of the people apparently spend their time in
their canoës. Once I saw a canoë containing three Indian women become stuck
in the mud. They made no trouble of it, but jumped out and walked in the
water, pulling t&fi canoë after them.   Mûiïty-My to imitate the white  people, with  A  TRIP TO ÈRITISH COLUMBIA.
very comical results. One wore a blue pair of trousers, thick black coat, large
plaid waistcoat (which almost required two to show the pattern), stand-up collar
and green tie, big top hat and sea-side shoes ! He was a queer-looking object.
While I was hère, an Indian came to one of the saw mills, and never having
seen a circular saw before, put his finger to it, and off came the end of that
unfortunate member. The manager hearing him shout, asked him how he did
it. " This way," said he, indicating with another finger, when off came number
two ! Notwithstanding the heavy penalty imposed for supplying the Indians
with intoxicating drink, they manage to get it sometimes from unscrupulous
people, who make money by selling bottles for £i which only cost one dollar.
It is risky work, for the Indians themselves will often inform against them. In
the city are between 2,000 and 3,000 Chinese, who are a very quiet, steady,
and industrious people, not generally liked by the labouring classes, as they work
for smaller wages. Each has to pay a duty of fifty dollars or ^10 on landing
and if they hâve no money, they are put in  pound in a large wooden shed and
Log Hut.
kept there until a steamer goes back to China. Thèse Chinese make capital
servants, as a white servant cannot be obtained for less than thirty dollars per
month, and a good man will earn 80 to 100 dollars per month. If a white
female servant is brought into the place, somebody picks her up, and she gets
married. Whilst hère 1 called upon the Rev. Mr. Hobson, Vicar of Christ
Church, Vancouver, nephew of the late Mr. Henry Pooley, of Wisbech. I may
also mention that Vancouver is lighted with the electric light, the roads being
new, bicycles are rarely to be seen. Bears and panthers still inhabit the woods
and are frequently killed. While hère five bears were shot close to where I was
staying. Amongst others, I visited a Mr. Blackburn, who was apprenticed to
Mr. Thirkell, of Wisbech. He is manager of a nursery, a pretty place called
" The Cedars," and we had many long chats together about Wisbech and Sutton
Bridge. In Stanley Park, close to Vancouver, is the Siwash Rock, where the
Indians meet to dance.    It is a wilderness indeed ; they call it a bush.    I call it a A FIVE WEEKS STAY AT VANCOUVER. 19
wood. It might hâve been bush in the time of the flood. There are two or
three families of Indians in the Park which cannot be got rid of. They are
dubbed " squatters." I called at one of their huts for a drink of water and saw
the Klooch and papooses, i.e., women and children, squatted on the floor, making
mats with little bits of rag and reed, and very pretty they looked—the mats, not
the Indians. It was amusing to see thèse people go hop-picking—a tug-boat
drawing half-a-dozen canoës fastened one behind the other. There is no
observance of bank holidays at Vancouver, but there are the Queen's birthday
and Dominion Day. I was glad to be there on the ist of July, Dominion Day.
Sports commenced early and were kept up till a late hour. Ail kinds of English
games were indulged in, as well as Canadian, including lacrpsse, their national
sport. What interested me especially were the Indian canoë races, of which
there were several, and as many as sixty natives competed in each of them.
The Indians sit in twos in the bottom of their canoës, using a short paddle about
four feet long and shaped like a tennis bat, which they dipped in the water as
fast as the hands could move them, and with great regularity. Thèse are
considered the most genuine races that can be seen. As the winner passes the
judge in the steamer, such shouting is heard as can only come from Indians' lungs.
Trains bring thousands of people, and numerous steamers bring holiday makers
from Victoria on Vancouver Island and ail the country settlements, the Indians
coming in their canoës with their families along the Frazer River and the coast.
The latter don't forget to bring their eatables, and we came across them squatted
down in the streets and on the quays, eating from large tins, salmon-berries and
other fruit, using their hands to convey it to their mouths. They wear very little
clothes, and nothing on their heads or feet ; they did not require them, for the
weather was hotter than it ever is in this country. Amongst other objects of
interest I saw during my stay was the Beaver, the first steamer to go round the
Pacific coast in 1835. It was a total wreck on the rocks known as the Narrows,
and was literally covered with barnacles. About seven o'clock one morning I
was standing on one of the wharves, when I noticed a canoë containing about
twenty Indians, who appeared as if -they had been on the water ail night. They
were the queerest lot I had yet seen. and I spoke to a man who stood near
remarking that I should like to hâve a photo of them. He replied that if I went
for the photographer he would keep them until I returned, but when I get back
with one they were gone. I endeavoured to get two or three others to sit.
Going up to two old Siwashes and a Klooch (two Indian men and one woman), I
failed to make them understand what I wanted, but the before-mentioned
gentleman happened to pass, and being able to speak Chinook, explained the
matter to them. The oldest of the three told the gentleman that he was the chief
or king of the Squamish tribe. Until then I was not aware that I was in the
présence of Royalty. Ultimately they consented, and we ail had our photographs
taken. Thèse three Indians had joined the Roman Catholic religion. If any
Indian converts are made, it is generally to the Roman Catholic Ch,urch, the
priests not only looking after their spiritual welfare, but teaching them how to
earn the mighty dollar as well. They do not observe Sunday only as a spécial
occasion for enjoyment. With them like the Chinese, it is "Six days shalt thou
labour, and on the seventh day do what you like." One Sunday I saw a steam-
boat on the Frazer river laden with Indians, as were also the canoës; they had
their own brass band, and were enjoying themselves to their heart's content.
When an Indian is taken ill he calmly resigns himself to his fate, tellinghis family
he has only so many more days to live, and dies up to time exactly. I may
mention that I brought home numerous photographs, including some of Indians, a
salmon 75lbs. weight, trees 53 feet in circumference, &c. ; also a model
of an Indian canoë, and a pièce of wood piling, which had been used only a short
time and had become dangerous by being bored through by insects called Toredos,
which make hundreds of holes large enough for a cane to be inserted. Two years
is the average that thèse wood piles last. There are no whistling birds hère, but
there is one with a red breast like a robin, but it'is as large as a blackbird.
The birds, especially crows, are very tame, and will sçarcely move out of
your way. 20
After a most enjoyable stay at Vancouver of five weçks, with delightful weather
ail the time, I took leave of my friends and newly-made acquaintances, many of
whom accompanied me to the station, and started on my return journey to
England, booking right through to Liverpool—6,389 miles. The distance to New
York by rail is 3,341 miles, and thence by the Teutonic to Liverpool 3,048 miles ■
total for the outward and homeward journey 13,078 miles. My tickets, six in
number, measured 2ft. 4in. The first for the sleeping birth ; the second
to take me to North Bay, 2,542 miles, without changing ; the third to
Toronto, via Hamilton,   on   the   Grand Trunk  Railway,   275   miles ; the fourth
to Buffalo and Niagara, 87 miles ; fifth to New York by the New York Central
and Hudson River Railway, 437 miles ; and the sixth the passage across the
Atlantic, 3,048 miles by steamer, which was timed to leave on the 29th July, ten
days after starting from Vancouver. The ticket allowed me to stop for two days
anywhere I pleased. I selected Toronto one day, and Niagara another. It may be
mentioned that Mr. Michael Davitt, and Sir Wm. and Lady Ffolkes arrived at
Vancouver the day I left. The former, on being asked what he thought to the
Rocky Mountains, said, " Had I ail the adjectives in the Engllsh vocabulary at my
command I could not describe them." Our train had no sooner left Vancouver
than some Indians and Chinese commenced to smoke opium cigarettes, in making
whfoh   they  are  adepts. î'-.On an appeal to the conductor,   however,   they were THE HOMEWARD JOURNEY.
speedily removed to a smoking compartiment, which is divided off for their
accommodation. The parlour cars are sixty-six feet long; the central drawing
room, which is turned into a dormitory at night, is thirty-two feet in length, nine
feet in width, and ten and a half feet in height, and is furnished with a dozen easy
chairs. The ceiling is frescoed with a beautiful design representing the four
seasons, and  one of the most striking  novelties consists of six bay  Windows.
Besides this apartment there are lavatories—where a quantity of powdered
soap slides into a basin of waterj on pressing a button—a kitchen, a safe for
valuables, an "observation room," a private state room,a library with writing desk
and medicïne chest, and other conveniences. The car is ventilated by compressed air,
and heated by steam from the engine. I soon made the acquairitance of two gentlemen from Philadelphia, Dr. Charles Wilson and Mr. Gordon Ash, who had been
on a Holiday tour since the first of^Mjaççh.    Thèse gentlemen went 6op mile* out 22
of their way to accompany me to Niagara, as I was a stranger. At North Bend,
19-22 Pacific time, supper was provided at the Canadian and Pacific Railway
Hôtel, for which twenty minutes was allowed. Hère may be seen a great river,
which is forced between high cliffs and ponderous masses of fallen rocks, causing
the waters to foam and roar loudly. The rail is eut into the cliffs 200 feet
or more and the jutting spurs of rock are pierced by tunnels in close succession.
At Spuzzum the rail crosses this chasm : it is an awful looking place. Indians in
their huts are observed on the banks, others are hanging fish out to dry in the sun
on sticks. Amongst other things noticed were the graves of the men who were
killed when the railway was made six years ago. Mountains rise to great
heights, and are covered by forests as far as the snow line. Lights could be seen
from the Indians' tents in the woods. We spent the first evening talking up to
23-3°- I could not get to sleep for the rattling of the car over the track, wnich
was very rough, and my fellow passengers were laughing and talking loudly, many
of them passing their time in card playing. Closer acquaintances than travelpng
in a sleeping car cannot be imagined. We travel miles on the side of high
précipices, and appear to be hanging on the sides of the mountains. On Monday
I awoke and found we had reached Shuswap, called after an Indian tribe of
that name. The river hère lies among mountain ridges, and extends along the
valley in half-a-dozen directions. Around Salmon Arm for fifty miles we wind in
and out of the bending shores, where wild geese and ducks are flying about in
numbers. From this point we begin to rise higher and higher until we get to
Illicilliwaet, an altitude of 4,122 feet, passing thirty stations. The observation
car is put on, and at Rospeak our nigger waiter lights the fires and we pull out
overcoats, for we are nearing the Rockies. We dine at the Glacier, where
Indians and their wigwams can be seen, with mustangs running about. I went
into one of thèse tents. The occupants had nothing to lie on but the bare wet
ground. Ail had rings in their ears, fur round their heads and akindof hide on their
feet. A great quantity of fire Aies were seen near Selkirk Summit, some of which
we endeavoured to catch. We are still rising as the train nears Bear Creek, and
soon leave the river thousands of feet below. We stop hère and put on two extra
engines. Amongst the Indian tribes we pass are the Squamish, Siwash, Sioux,
Crées, &c. Some appear to be warlike, others peaceful. The return trip was
new to me in many respects, as we approach the country from the opposite
direction. It appeared, if anything, to be grander than ever. I woke one night at
a station, and discovered some Indians staring at me through the window. They
laughed to see me start up, and came on the cars and shook hands. Ail had
buffalo horns and bead work to sell. Thèse were the Blackfeet Indians. We
hâve now regained the prairies, abounding in cattle ranches. It was an interesting
sight to see the cowboys bunching cattle, i.e. getting them ail together before
darkness cornes on. One cowboy in turn keeps awake nightly to watch them.
On some occasions the Aies are so troublesome as to cause a gênerai stampede
amongst the animais. The cowboys immediately go in pursuit on their mustangs,
travelling at a tremendous rate. They lie almost on the backs of their horses,
bringing their long whips around the frightened cattle. Sometimes the farmers
hère hâve as many as ten thousand head of cattle, and they ail hâve to be looked
up twice a year to be branded by their owners, as any that are not branded can be
claimed by the first corner. A particularly lazy-looking lot of Indians are
passed at Mapelcreek. Around Swift Current there are farms with 80 horses,
500 cattle, and 2,000 sheep, and at Rushlake we go by Sir John Lister Kay's farm.
There are ten others near, each 10,000 acres in extent. The Canadian Pacific
Company owns 25,000,000 (twenty-five million) acres of land along the line,
and at one station I saw an advertisement " Wanted 4,800 men for railway and
harvest work. Wages 30 dollars per month and board. Apply Canadian Pacific
Railway." At Rosser, large cases containing glass bottles of samples of wheat
were exhibited. On stopping at Moose Jaw I walked some distance on the prairies
and found a peculiar buffalo bone, such as in the horse is called •' the bishop," as
it resembles a parson preaching. Hère the police warning against giving the
Indians " fire water " is renewed, whilst the Indians also, as at other places, visit
us.    The train does not travel very fast in the dav time, but at night it runs at a J 24 A TR.IP TO BRITISH COLUMBIA.
great rate. One night after I had retired a man was brought on board With his
foot crushed and placed in the berth above me. At several way-side stations
members of the Salvation Army came alongside the cars and sang and prayed.
Our nigger waiter bought a pair of antelopes at one place, saying that he intended
them as a présent to Mrs. Vanderbilt. He informed us that at one time he was
in their service as waiter in their own railway carriage. His name was George
Isaac Clay, and his mother was daughter of the Rev. Josiah Henson or " Uncle
Tom " in Mrs. Beecher Stowe's " Uncle Tom's Cabin." He said he was in his
grandfather's room at Dresden, Ontario, when he died, and that he had in his
possession a photograph of the Queen in a gold frame which Her Majesty gave to
his grandfather with her own hands. He was capital company, and his laugh was
the typical side splitter. Once I saw him trying to open the door, and as his
hands were full of eggs he put two in his mouth. We arrived at Winnipeg
on Wednesday, July 22nd, at 16-30, having travelled 1,482 miles. It was a
grand day, and I was much more interested in the town than on the outward
jotBrney. The station resembles our English stations more than any we had
passed ; as a rule they are not so thickly decorated with advertisements as in this
OONitntry ; although Sunlight Soap in large letters can be seen ail along the line.
Several of the passengers and myself got on the tram which runs close to the line,
and rode through the streets. Oxen were observed drawing vans, and by their
appearance they had evidently corne a long distance. Some of our companions
purchased tinned méats and other necessaries of life, and a few tried the
q'iï&'lïty of Winnipeg " bitter." We again joined the cars ;• as our train crossed
the streets we were delayed a short time for a funeral to pass, it was that
of a gênerai in the Canadian Artillery ; there were several régiments both horse
and foot, cannons, each drawn by six horses, and thousands followed in
procession. Ail on board, we again start on our journey. The approach to Port
Arthur is by the shores of Lake Superior, which is almost like an océan, for it
takes two or three days to cross in fast steamers, which go out of sight of
land. It is hère the Hudson Bay Company hâve a large fur house. Late
one night as we sat smoking and chatting over a cup of Silverbrook Tea our car
suddenly began to shake violently ; what was the cause we could not find out
at the time, but when we reached Chapleau, 2,291 miles from Vancouver, eight
o'clock on the Friday morning, I noticed a railway employé tapping the carriage
wheels, and as he struck one I remarked in a joke "That's cracked," and passed
on to the refreshment room. On returning I found a dozen men lifting the car off
the track by machinery, as the equalizing spring was broken in halves. We
afterwards travelled at an increased rate to make up the two hours' delay, and
when the train steamed into North Bay at 7 p.m. (Eastern time) my journey on
the Canadian Pacific Railway was finished punctually to time, having traversed
three provinces, Manitoba, Assinobia, and Alberta. The British mails from China
and Japan are now brought by this Company's Steamer to Vancouver, and thence
over their line to New York, the transit Seing made four or five days quicker than
formerly. Hère I left the cars, after bidding my friends " good-bye," and
went with the two before-mentioned gentlemen by the Grand Trunk Railway to
Toronto, which I reached at four o'clock on the following morning. I read in
a Hamilton evening paper the resuit ol the Wisbech élection. It was known hère
the same day as in England. The night porter from one of the hôtels took charge
of our handbags, while we strolled through the city. This was a great change
from our previous expérience, and was more like civilization, Toronto is situated
on Lake Ontario. The streets are clean, the shops handsome, the buildings,
fine—finer I never saw. As soon as the hôtels were opened we breakfasted and
then went to bed, as we had not the advantage of a sleeping berth on the previous
night. The same licensing régulations are in vogue hère as at Montréal. After
being refreshed by sleep, we visited the Roman Catholic Cathedral, St. James'
Episcopal Church, and the Baptist Church. Everyone hère had a well-to-do
appearance. Having dined, my friends and myself took train for Niagara,
getting there in the evening. On our journey we passed fields of Indian
corn (which were a pretty sight), and for miles we saw peaches and grapes growing .
in  the open air, tihe latter supported by sticks like our garden peas.     At the THE HOMEWARD JOURNEY. 25
Suspension Bridge we cross the line into the United States and the Custom
House officiais corne on board to examine our handbags. Thèse were very nice
fellows and gave us as little trouble as possible. At Niagara I saw my luggage for
the first time since I had left Vancouver. As I had booked right through to
England it was not opened. We at once started for the town, which was two
miles off. No sooner had we reached the road, than we were surrounded by
a dozen "eabbies" or "hackmen," who shouted "cabs, gents, drive you ail round
for a quartier a pièce; Bath Islands, American Rapids, Goat Falls, American
Island, show you where Captain Webb lost his Iife, Cave of the Winds, &c."
They continued to follow us for some distance, shouting out their fares to the
other places of interest. By this time we were close to the hôtel, and stepped in
and engaged beds. After tea, off we went to see Niagara, the roar of the falls
being heard at the hôtel. At times it can be heard at Toronto. To say that
Niagara Falls are a grand sight, is like saying that Shakespeare was a great man.
They are unspeakably grand and awe inspiring. The longer one watches them
the more wonderful do they seem. I lingered hère until a late hour, and viewed
the Falls by moonlight. It was a sight I did not soon get tired of. The waters of
the Cascade Rapids above the Horseshoe Falls descend 55 feet in three-
quarters of a mile, the breadth being 2,600 feet. The volume of water passing
over is 1,350 million cubic feet or two million tons per minute. The following
day we again started off for the Falls. Every house on the way is a bazaar
or muséum and had what they term their " solicitor" at the door to attract the
notice of visitors. They push trade with a vengeance. " Step in gents, don't
charge you anything to look round. Tintitype photo of yourself in five minutes
and the Falls given away into the bargain." To get out of the way of others who
were equally pushing, we "stepped in" one place, and sure enough our potraits
were taken and finished in five minutes, Falls as well. The town of Niagara has a
population of 5,000, and is entirely supported by visitors. There are several
grand hôtels, which hâve ail negro waiters. The furnishing is luxurious. After
walking on the Suspension Bridge, viewing the Victoria Park (which covers 154
acres), and taking a last look at the Falls and the Rainbow (always to be seen on a
bright day) and watching the " Maid of the Mist " in the Whirlpool below, we
xeturned to the Hôtel, and started by the New York Central and Hudson River
Railway at 5 p.m. for New York. This is the only four track railway in the
world. Al Rochester my two companions changed for Philadelphia. At Adams
Basin we passed several passenger cars that had been in collision, and further or
others that were smashed to atoms and rolled over an embankment, three people
being killed. I was not sorry when I alighted at the New York Grand Central
Station at seven the following morning. This journey (437 miles) has quite
recently been accomplished in 450 minutes, including stoppages. Hère an officia.'
took my hand luggage, gave me a receipt for it, and forwarded it to the boat,
New York is a busy place ; there are over two million people hère. Although it
was only 7 a.m. the trains, busses, and cabs were running in the streets, and
people were going up and down the elevated railway. As this was my first visit to
New York, I accepted the offer of a gentleman to show me a good hôtel, and went
with him by the elevated railway to Astor House, Broadway, opposite to the Post
Office and close to Brooklyn Bridge. I had had no sleep on the previous night, so
I entered my name on the visitors' book, received the key of my room, and
accompanied by a negro waiter, I stepped into the lift and up we went to
No. 141. There are 490 apartments in the building, each supplied with a fire
escape, i.e. a rope fastened inside the bedroom window. At one o'clock (noon) I
awoke, and as the Teutonic was to leave at twelve on the following day I
determined to see ail I could in the short time at my disposai. First I went to the
docks and about three miles down by the side of the water I saw my luggage. I,
now felt that I was nearly home, having been travelling ten days, night and day—a
distance of 3,341 miles. Soon after I met an English gentleman—Mr. Dowden,
of London, who was going to Liverpool on the following day. I rode with him on
a street car to the Central Park, visiting on foot the Muséum and Zoological
Gardens. Next I went by another car, thence by steamer, to Bedloes Island, on
which is erected the great Barthold Statue of Liberty, presented by the Frenck 26
people. We olimbed to the top of this wonderful structure. Some idea may be
formed of the size when it is stated that a man can walk comfortably in the arm
and sit in one of the fingers. Returning to New York we walked over the
celebrated Brooklyn Bridge. This, like everything else in America, is " the
grandest in the world." People walk high up in the centre, the railway runs at
the side, and outside the railway is the space for vehicular traffic. Next morning
I saw the great Vanderbilt's résidence, and I read in an American paper, that he
was having a poultry house built which was to cost thirty thousand dollars. But
I suppose the eggs will be no larger than if laid in an orange box. I also visited
the offices of the New York Tribune, which are 375 feet high with 22 stories,
enough iron in its construction to build 27 miles of railway, and contains 500
doors and 1000 Windows. Once whilst riding on the railway I saw Mr. Wilson,
solicitor, late of Wisbech, in the street below, but was. unable to speak to him.
At 11 a.m. I embarked on board the Teutonic, which is a magnificent vessel of
12,000 tons, splendidly furnù.hed throughout. The throng which lined the docks
cheered and waved handkerchiefs and hands as the great vessel slowly moved
away. We had as successful and enjoyable a passage as on the outward voyage,
except for the fact that one lady lost her reason and died before we reached
England. We passed a wrecked vessel bottom upwards, that was anything but a
pleasant sight. On another occasion we saw a whale, and it continued to spout
for a long time. One day a gale suddenly sprung up and split the sails into
ribbons, which flapped in the wind making a great noise like the sound of
musketry ; they were quickly hauled down and replaced by new. The Rev. F.
Wilson, uncle of Mr. Wilson, solicitor, late of Wisbech, preached on the
Sunday. There was also on board a Mr. Gibbs, of Peterborough. On the
evening of Tuesday we sighted land, and were soon close to the Irish coast,
passing the gaslit town of Kinsale. Rocket signais were let off on board, and
were similarly answered from tbe hills, the news of our whereabouts being
flashed across to headquarters. At eleven we were at Queenstown, where a steam
tug took off about 300 of our passengers, including a young Irishman and his
ten-month old baby, which he was going to take home to his mother in Ireland,
the poor fellow having lost his wife when the child was born. It was a pitiful
sight to see him walking the decks with the motherless babe. The ladies on
board relieved him ail they could, taking it in turns to nurse and look after the
infant. Hère boys brought newspapers and Answers on board, which they sold at
6d. each. At 12 we again steamed ahead, and early next morning could see
the Welsh mountains. Those who had not been to England before, were amused
at the smallness of our fields, and the différent coloured crops, one remarking
that they looked like so many pocket handkerchiefs put out to dry. They
appeared to me smaller than usual. At one o'clock we were in the Mersey,
having beaten the record. Steam tugs take us on shore, also the mails; there
were hundreds of bags, each as much as a man could carry. Our Yankee
passengers were struck at seeing so many boys selling Bryant and May's marches.
Several declining the change from 10 cent pièces, remarking they were cheap at
that, the little fellows appearing quite delighted. Bidding friends good-bye, and
passing the Customs, I caught the train for Wisbech, arriving in the good old town
at midnight, ten weeks from the time of leaving, five weeks of which I spent in
travelling night and day, having enjoyed a most delightful trip and grand weather
from start to finish. The very best land in the world is to be found in Manitoba
and the North West Territories, and every man is entitled to
160 Acres as a FREE GIFT. The cost of taking possession of
a FREE GRANT is £2, ail told.
Employaient can always be had. There is a Government
Agent in Winnipeg who will always direct the enquirer to
places where work is to be found.
Pamphlets and full information will be gladly afforded on
application to the local Steamship Agent, or to Canadian Pacific
Railway Company, 67 & 68, King William Street, London, E.C. a
By the authority of Her Majesty the Queen and Empress of India.
Under Six Royal Patents and the Great Seal of England.
Concentrated, specially prepared, absolutely pure  and   safe,  for personalj and
domestic use.    " Matchless Purifier."    Pure Antiseptic."
" Californian " Borax possesses qualities that are exceptional and unknown to any
other substance, it stands alone in its Antiseptic Decay arresting, Purifying attri-
butes, its Safety, and its Purity. It purifies Water, destroys Bacilli, Animalculse,
and Fever Germs, instantly. Renders Water beautifully clear, sweet, pure, and
soft, for ail Washing, Cleaning, Purifying, and Scouring purposes ; especially
valuable for Toilet, Bath, and Lavatory. Unrivalled for Washing Vegetables and
Cooking purposes. Wherever " Californian " Borax is used it sweetens, purifies,
and improves. Fevers or infection cannot spread where " Californian " Borax is
used. In Packets, 6d,, 3d., and ld. each. Household directions and valuable
Toilet Recipes on each packet.
" Is the Best " Dry Soap, and the most convenient Soap, for daily use.
Cleanses, Washes, Purifies, Brightens everything—dissolves instantly in.jhot
warm, or cold water—is pleasant in use—leaves healthy smell like " new-mown
hay "—" Makes linen white as snow"—and Home indeed "Sweet Home" in
comfort and reality. Packets Quarter Pound, Half Pound, and One Pound, with
directions on each.
' Californian ' Borax,
in addition to its
registered title and
label, is also further
known by this spécial
Trade Mark, registered and recognised
as the standard brand
of Borax purity
throughout the civi-
lised world.
" Californian " and
Patent Borax Préparations are sold in
packets convenient
and ready for instant
Spots, Rust, Mould,
Sourness, Decay, instantly remo ved from
Household Requi-
sites, Breakfast, Din-
ner, Tea Thines,
Dessert and Supper
Services, Glasses,
Dishes, Plates,
Spoons, Knives,
Forks, Cooking Ves-
sels, and ail other
Domestic Articles
kept bright, pure, and
sweet by Patent Borax préparations.
The Patent Flexible Enamel for Starched Goods, ready for using with évery kind
of Starch.
Wonderfully improves ail Starch.    Imparts Enamel-like Gloss, gives Permanent
Stiffness, Brilliancy, and Beauty  to  Muslin, Lace, Linen, Cuffs, Collars, Fronts,
and ail other starched articles.   In packets, id. and 3d., Boxes, 6d.   Full directions
on each. NOTICE.
Our présent high standing in the Tea Trade has not
been obtained by mère position of premises, or pufnng
advertisements, but it is the resuit of what we believe
will ever ensure success, namely :—Strict Personal
Attention, Honorable Dealing, and Pair Profits, our aim
being to win the confidence of our customers by study-
ing their interest.
Our Teas range from 1/4 per pound to 3/-, and at their
respective priées cannot be surpassed. The same applies
to every article in Grocery and Provisions Stocked by
Wholesale and Eamily Gsocers,
Market Place,
Goods delivered by our oum Vans, BEST   AND   BRIGHTEST.
&  A   il».   MU!»   M IS&
GIVES a Jet Black Polish in ail climates. Does not clog the Leather
A smaller quantity than other Blacking is sufficient.
Thi» unrivalled waterproof Préparation protects the leather and keeps
it soft and pliable.    Produces a Splendid Polish.
No rubbing required.    Clean and Economical.
For BRASS, COPPER, and ail kinds of METALS.
An unrivalled Préparation for Boots and Shoes of Morocco, Glace,
Kid, and ail kinds of Enamelled Leather.
Requires no Brushing, is free from Spirit, and will not soil
the  Clothing.
For Cleaning and Polishing Gold, Silver, Plate, Jewellery, etc.
Saves Labour.
3d. per Box, post free 4d.
a)      i 30CI     (■
It is not always true that what is cheap cannot be good,
hère is an instance :—
Truthfully combine ail the quality of the very
fïiiiî mmmmwimm
For Goughs and (Solds,
While the price is within reach of ail.
oteam Prepared
For Soups, Thickening Gravies, &c.
Makes a Dish of RICH SOUP.  Ready for the Table in a few Minutes.
BfiTPflàV   P©©®,
Invaluable in-ail cases of Weak Digestion and for Invalida.
Used ecetensivély at Smëdley's Hydropathic Establishment,
Sold in Tins, 1/- per lb., by ail Grocers.
;;■*  W.  SYMINGTOiM  <&  co.,
Ail Persons suffering from Biliousness and Liver
Complaints should use
l .    COFFEE
Recommended by Eminent Physicians.
Sold in Tins, at 6d., 1/-, and 1/6 each.
Sold by BUBALL BROS., Wisbech, & ail Grocers. The "POPULAR" Black Lead.
"My customers will we no other."—E. A. Bailey, Grocer,
I In HALF the TIME & with HALF the LADOUR
you can produce taore polish with TWO Penny
Packets of the " RISING SUN "
than with HALF-DOZEN Penny Packets
1 of ordinary Blacklead.
as in it are combinai in their PB.OPEB,  PBjOr
PORTIONS,   STARCH   GLOSS  and ail other
ingrédients,   necessary to produce
'IVTaok's Double Starch
will meet a longfelt requirement and save an infinity
of trouble; itis ready for immédiate use without any
other addition or préparation. ]f the very simple
directions given with each box are carried out the
resuit is perfection."—Lady's Pictorial.
"    Oll
Absolutely free from Mercury, Whiting, and ail other
ingrédients injurions to Silver and Plate.
"Savet an immense amownt of time. and labour, and çîves <t.
briçhterpelish than ani/thina elfe.    There U no préparation, e/
•whick we hnow to equâl its exceUenc.—Fnqnire "WithÏTï.
"Tour Blacklead is tb» most
remarkable production I hâve
known. Every customer of mine
without exception, gives it the
highest unsohcited praise."
G. Maidmbkt, Grocer,
•" " We like it better than any
other we hâve used. It is so
clean, and takes such a little
time to make such a beautiful
polish."— Mrs. David Smith,
288, Bloomsbury Street,
'• The sample of " Maok's
Double Starch," has given great
satisfaction, and my wife déclares she will use none else in
future."—Mr. P. Tubnbb, Park
View Terrace, Owlerton,
Maçk's Starch is perfection."
Mrs. A. Langi/by,
147, Coningham Rd.,
Shepherd's Bush.
" Mack's Donble.Starch is the
best I ever used."
Mrs. S. Dattes ,
" I and my daughters think it
the most perfect Powder ever
used for Plate, and Silver. I am
an old housekeeper of over fifty
years' expérience, and hâve used
many others, but not any to
equal yours."—A. M. Lindlet,
13, Grosvenor Villas, Tnfnell
Park, London, N.
BURALL  BROS., Market Place,
Priées, See Quotations. A   PHEIMOMINAL   SUCCESS !§g
! FECULINA" stands unrivalled as the perfection of prepared flours
for producing pure and delicious cakes, with the minimum of
time, trouble and expense.
Registered 72,462.
Feculina obtained First Prize at the Cookery Industrial
Exhibition, London.  See Testimonial below:
Saltwood Villa, Oakleigh Boad,
New Southgate, Middlesex,
April 23rd, 1891.
Messrs. B. S. Browithill & Sons,
Sirs,—I hâve much pleasure in informing you that a Cocoa-!N ut
Eeculina Cake, made by me, took a Eirst Prize at the Compétitive Industrial Exhibition, New Southgate, April lOth, 1891.
The judges evidently enjoyed it, as there was not a quarter left
to bring home.
I hâve tried many myself, and recommended them to nearly ail
my friends, who are enraptured with them. I am now going to try a
Sponge Cake.
I am, yours truly, (Miss) A. JACKSON, (16 years old).
P.S.—The Exhibitors were ail under 21 years of. âge.
PLE ASE OBSERVE—There is but ONE " Eeculina," which
is packed in 1 lb. pink bags only. The following names are ail distinct préparations, each kind ruaking a cake true to name. Where
flavour is required, a few drops of any Essence may be added.
When asking your Grocer for Feculina, please say which cake you
wish to make.    Feculina may be had in the following kinds:—
Proprietors & Manufacturers, Wellington Works, Leeds.
Sold by BURALL, BROS., Wisbech, & ail Grocers. Winter and Summer Brink
(Trade Mark Eegistered)
Pure, Wholesonie, Refreshing, Delicious, Healthful,
and Economical.
Lemonade,  Orangeade, Raspberry,
Pineapple, Lime Juice & G-ingerade.
In Bottles 4Ad. each, with directions.
7^d., 1/1^, and 2/9 per Bottle.
BE CAEI & SOI, Chemists, lorwich.
Sold by BURALL BROS., Wisbech, & ail Grocers. BUY
19 Prize Medals
Bryant and May support Home
Bryant & May employ British labour.
The "[INEMPLOYE!) of EAST LONDON —At a time
when much thought is being given to this matter,
practical suggestion may be of service. Last year more
than £300,000 worth of foreign matches were purchased
by inconsiderate consumers in this country, to the great
injury of our own working people. So true is it that
" Evil is wrought by want of thought as well as want of
heart." If ail consumers would purchase Bryant and
May's matches, that firm would be enabled to pay £1000
a week more in wages.
Sold by BURALL BROS., Wisbech, & ail Grocers. DRINK HOP TEA
those who suffer
from Indigestion
Sold in Lead Packets
ponnd, llb.. and 31b.
Tin Canisters.
2/- and 2/6.
Should nse no other
Sold in Quarter-
pound & half-pound
Lead Packets, also
llb & 31b Canisters.
2/- and 2/6.
1   T R ~Y    I T !
St. George's House, Eastcheap, London.
Registered Trade Mark-" DESICCATED SOUP."
1.—It is a much cheaper and more sustaining Food than any of the
Beef Extracts or Bouillons, as, unlike thèse, it contains heat-
formers and flesh-formers in proper proportion, its force value
as a food being over three times that of an equal weight of Beef.
2.—It consisls of Beef and G-arden Vegetables (grown largeïy on the
Proprietors' own lands), and no Peas, Beans, or other indigestible substances are used in its manufacture.
3.—It is quickly prepared, and any not used one day can be warmed
again without loss of flavour.
Canisters, \-lb., 1/3 ; \-lb., 8d.; \-lb., &\d.    Sample Packet, One Penny.
This préparation is largely composed of Tomato, combined with
choice garden Vegetables, forming a concentrated and portable article
of diet, delicious, healthful, and economical.
One table-spoonful will make a basin of rich Soup ; 1 lb. makes 6 qts.
1-lb. Lever-Top Canister, 2/6; \-lb., 1/3; \-lb., 8d.; and in métal boxes,
handsomely labelled and TVrapped, containing 1 doz. packets, 2/-
(Tbade Mabk)   (t"R. A"VT[NA.« (Eegisteeed)
In Patent Lever-Top  Oanisters—1-lb.,  1/10 ;   %-lb., 1/- ;   i-lb., 6d.
Sample Packets, 2d.
««EDWARDS' ECONOMIC COOKERY," a collection of 100 Rectpes for the
nse of our Soups, sent Gratis and Post Fbee on application.
Contractors to Her Majesty's Government,
3, 4, 5, & 6, Camomile St., LONDON.
Saves Time, Soap, and Labour.
No Tired Fingers or Chafed Hands.
Rubbing Reduced to a Minimum.
Steeping and Bleaching Unnecessary.
Sold by BURALL BROS., Wisbech, & ail Grocers. w
Merchants and Manufacturers,
14 d.
Family Pills (Plain or Sugar Coated)     ...        ...ld.
Compound Castor Oil Pil$3 ...        ...        ...ld.
Dandelion, Camomile, and G-eutian Pills ...ld.
Ehubarb Pills  ld.
Antibilious Pills     ...        ... .,        ...        ...ld.
Headache Pills       ...        ...        ...        ...        ...ld.
Wind and Water Pills        . .ld.
Tic and Toothache Pills
Blood, Stomach andLiver Pills    ...
The above Pills can be had either plain or sugar coated, in handsome
enamelled tins, holding \-gross ; or on exhibition cards, containing 3 doz.
With each parcel is sent a suitable sélection of window slips and cards.
and 3d. box
and 3d.
l|d. aud 3d.
Hd. and 3d.
Hd. and 3d.
Hd. and 3d.
Hd. and 3d.
ld. l|d. and 3d.
.ld. Hd. and 3d.
Gringerbread Worm Cakes...
Worm Lozenges (Musk flavoured)
Balsamic Cough-no-more Lozenges
Indian Cerate or Household Ointment
Magic Essence (Toothache and Tic)
Indian Life Elixir   ...
„       Rubbing Oils (Bheumatism)
Yegetable Bowel Complaint Mixture
Comp. Chlorodyne Cough Balsam
Infants' Preservative or Comfort ...
(Does not confcain any Opium or Poison.)
Insect Powder
Laundress' Friend, or Starch G-laze
Aniline Dyes (ail colours) ...
Seidlitz Powders
,, „     double strong
Violet Powders
Fuller's Earth 	
Pink Powders (for Children)
Brown      „     (for ATdults)
Teething Powders (for Children)
Chemical Fly Papers
Celebrated Hospital Plaisters
„ Sticking        „
Fine Senna   ...
Fowers of Sulphur ...
Salts, Senna, and Sarsaparilla
.ld. each
...ld.   I
...2d. per oz.
...ld. and 2d. per box
...3d. per bottle
...3|d. and 7d. per bot.
.. 3^d. and7d.      „
...3|d. and 7d.     „
...3£d. and 7d.     „
...3|d. and 7d.     „
...-|d. and ld. boxes
...ld. 2d.3d. &6d. bxs
...ld. packets or boxes
,..ld.2d. &3d. packets
1 doz. boxes, 3 doz. Glass
topped cases, and
...ld. per pair
...lg'd.     ,, ÎGrossTins.
...ld. each
...ld. each
...ld. each
...ld. each
...ld. each
...^d. per sheet
...ld. each
...^d. each
...ld. and |d. Packets
...ld. and fd.  „
...ld. and 2d. per box
Sold by BURALL BROS., Market Place, Wisbech.
AU Goods delwered Free. FOR   BREAKFAST
The Perfection of Prepared Cocoa.
Sold in Tin-lined Packets only, by ail Grocers.
Making a DELICIOUS BEVERAGE of the consistency of Tea.
j\    I      Lsca
Sold in Tins only, by ail Grocers.
T"AYî     OR     BROTHERS,
Sold by BURALL BRëS., Wisbech, & ail Grocers. ISCUIT C0„ LD.
It is acknowledged tbat our Biscuits and
Cakes fully justify our Title, A l and are now kept by
most of tbe principal Grocers & Confectioners, &c. We
append a few of our leading kinds.
A 1  MiXED
Ditto, Cheese
Charm -,1
CtTTS'R'R tp.k
And about 150 other
Coooa Nut
Eairlight Glen
And about 40 other
Sold by BURALL BROS., Wisbech, & ail Grocers. W£kmm%MBW   FISÏ0E
v e
With India Rubber Vacuum Arrow, which will adhère
to the Target and Indicate the score.
PARENTS as well as CHILDREN are made ex-
tremely happy with this intensely amusing'
New Parlor Game.    Besides the pleasure it
affords it trains the EYE, cultivâtes the    gg»
JUDGMENT, strengthens the
Nerves and fills every VEIN
with youthful blood.    No homei
is complète without it.
Patented Erance, England, Qermany( United States and Canada.
Nickel Pistol, with Arrow and Target
Bronze    do. do. do.
Arrows only - - -      6d.
Post and Packing Eree 6d. extra.
lâlKISl    iîîl
Nickel Gun with Arrow and Target
Bronze       do.       do.       do.
Post and Packing Eree 1/- extra.
- fTOMtOHU"       O Î30A1*1
The Delight of the Laundry.
Keen's Blue is the Best in the World.
Soldby BURALL BROS., Wisbech, & ail Grocers. SILVERBROOK   TEA.THE Popular Tea in the Market,
1 Not to be equalled for the money."
Fob G-UAEANTEE of PTTEITY Eead the Awaltst's Eepoet:-
"11 & 12, Geeat Towee Steeet, E.C.,
. "I hâve •very carefully analysed three sarnplesof Silverbrook Tea>
warehouse of the Silverbrook Tea Co., Ld., and I hereby certify that
they are perfectly pnre in composition and free from ail adultération
and admixture. They hâve been caref ully selected and blended and
are free from the nndae astringency noticeable in so many teas of thé
présent day. "W heu infased they yield a pure rich liquor of fine flavour
and aroma, soothing comforting, and easy of digestion."
(Sitped)        GEANVILLE H. SHAKPE, E.C.S., Analyst,
(Late Principal of the Liverpool Collège of Chemïstry.) A SUNLIGHT EFFECT.
SUNLIGHT SOAP will do your Washing in one half
the time it takes with the ordinary soaps, and instead
of feeling tired and worn out aftor washing, you will
feel as if Sunlight had indeed corne into your life.
Do not rub !   Do not stand over the offensive odours
arising from the tub, but try
lilililf    S©âF !
lliiil •^n^L -^ ^ rï° ^e work.


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