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Daylight land : the experiences, incidents, and adventures, humorous and otherwise, which befel Judge… Murray, W. H. H. (William Henry Harrison), 1840-1904 1888

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Array       DAYLIGHT   LAND
The Experiences, Incidents, and Adventures, Humorous and Otherwise, which befel Judge John Doe, Tourist, of San Francisco ;
Mr. Cephas Pepperell, Capitalist, of Boston; Colonel
Goffe, the Man from New Hampshire, and divers
others, in their Parlor-Car Excursion over
Prairie and Mountain
As recorded and set forth by
™»  To
GEORGE STEWART, Jr., D. C. L., D. Litt., F. R. G. S.
j introduction	
The Meeting ....
At Breakfast   .....
A Very Hopeful Man .
The Big Nepigon Trout .
The Man in the Velveteen Jacket
The Capitalist	
A Jollt Camp at Rush Lake
Big Game	
A Strange Midnight Ride .
Nameless Mountains   .
Sabbath among the Mountains
.    53
.   95
. 139
. 183
224 10 CONTENTS.
Chap. Page
XIII. The Great Glacier  258
XIV. The Hermit of Fraser Canon       .       .       .       . 274
XV. Fish and Fishing in British Columbia     .       .       . 298
XVI.  Vancouver 307
XVII. The Parting at Victoria    ...... 326 '"■'""■"'"wsr
'Out of the white blankness started letters red as
blood ....
Vermilion Lakes   ....
The Judge ....
The Three Sisters, Canmore
" A scholarly looking man "
A Voice from the Doorway
"i go as a pilgrim "
"Thou shalt write us"
The Bow River, near Calgary
Initial Letter       ....
"Our hands met like a flash"
On the Road to the Glacier
I How fresh the ladies look "
Jackfish Crossing, Lake Superior
Initial Letter  ....
. 10
. 15
. 18
. 23
. 24
. 28
. 29 12
| Count the clicks "
The Waiter       .....
The First Bridge ....
The Rope Bridge      ....
Caribou Road Bridge, Fraser River
A Real Gem      .....
Red Rock and Nepigon Bay
Thunder Cape, Lake Superior
Initial Letter      ....
Crowfoot Encampment
The Judge glared
" Dynamite is n't so bad, after all "
Griffin Lake, Eagle Pass   .
Initial Letter .....
Civilization means luxury .
Fraser Canon, above Spuzzum
I Jerusalem ! He 's a twenty-pounder
On the Columbia River  .
Salmon Cache
Initial Letter ....
Mt. Carroll, from the West
The Hackman    ....
The Runaway Colt
"The dog and cat met" .
A Miner's Hut
Mt. Mack ay, near Port Arthur
Initial Letter
II am delighted to greet you :
"Busted, completely busted"
Black Canon     ....
I He followed me "
Goats' Heads     ....
I On a cliff, stood Percussion ':
Goats' Heads     ....
The Path of the Avalanche
The Man of Science
A Trial of Strength   .
" He struck the man of science '
Near Revelstoke
Initial Letter ....
Jack Osgood	
Primitive Transportation
Indian Girl   .        .        .        ...
The Man from New Hampshire
Kananaskis Falls ....
The Mountain Lion
Initial Letter
Gray Wolf
White Tail Deer .
White Fox
Musk Ox    .        .        .
Prong Horn Antelope .
Rocky Mountain Goat .
Rocky Mountain Sheep
The Grizzly Bear
Sea Otter      ......
Bow River and Cascade Mountains, near
Initial Letter       .....
In the Selkirks        .....
Kicking Horse Pass      ....
Sapomaxicow, Chief of Blackfeet .
Falls of the Bow, Banff
Initial Letter .....
The Bow River, Banff
Mt. Stephen, and Glacier, and Cathedrai
Fraser Canon, below North Bend
Vermilion Lakes
On the Tote Road
Van Horne Range   .
Initial Letter  ....
Albert Canon ....
215 14
Cathedral Peak    .
Mt. Field	
Ruby Creek
Hermit Range
Initial Letter
"There comes our clergyman
Ross Peak      ....
A Mountain Picnic .
East Ottertail
The Chancellor
Great Glacier from the Snow Sheds
Initial Letter .
Climbing the Great Glacier
The Great Glacier .
Mt. Hermit, Rogers Pass
Sir Donald
Mt. Stephen, from the East
Kicking Horse Lake, Hector
Initial Letter
Caribou Wagon Road, Fraser Canon
Eagle Peak   ....
Symbols and Figures
" On the rock was a letter • C
Indian Burying Ground  .
Bow River     ....
Chinook Indians
Initial Letter
Hope Peaks       ....
Castellated Cliffs, Ashcroft
Salmon Drying ....
Drying Candle Fish
Kamloops Lake
Initial Letter
Tossing for Corner Lots .
Panoramic vtew from Vancouver
Cedar Tree, Vancouver Park
Spruce Tree, Vancouver Park   .
The Ball  323
Indian Chief's Grave 325
Pitt River  326
Initial Letter 326
Siwash Canoes 327
An Old Squaw 330
Medicine Man  . 330
Indian Hermit 331
Squaw of the Medicine Man 331
At New Westminster 332
Flathead Indians 334
The Parting 335
At the Station 338
A 7
eed the going guest.
| Whither art thou going, 0 wanderer, this summer ? " said a pleasant voice from the doorway, as I
came up the gravel walk. | Are you going to the
North and the home of ice, or to the East and the
gates of the morning ? Or do
you long for the odor of tropical flowers and the flash of
colored wings ? Or shall you
voyage to the West, that land
of old-time fable, in which the
blessed lived ? Tell me, thou
ranger of woods, with thy
whitened head and the heart
of a boy, whither goest thou
this summer ? "
11 am going, fair princess,"
I said, imitating the lightness
of her phrasing, — "I am going to the West, to that heaven
of the old-time folk, where the
colors  on  the   clouds are as
golden as thy hair, and the sky as blue as thine eyes.
I am going to the West, fair princess, where the plains
are of emerald, the mountains snow-crowned, and the
streams flow yellow with gold." 18
"How goest thou, O wanderer?" continued the
voice banteringly from the doorway. " Has Phoebus
loaned you his car'Und taught you the government of
his steeds ? Beware ! Remember the fate of Phaeton !
Or has the sea sent you word that the Dolphins are
waiting, all harnessed to the
| bowl of the pink pearl shell ?
Or do you go like a true pil-
| grim, with sandalled foot and
scalloped shoon ? Is it by the
poetry or prose of power that
you are to be drawn ? "
I By  both,"   I   responded.
\ "The  fate   of   Phaeton   has
^ warned  me, and  the  pearly
| shell car of  the Dolphins is
small.   I go as a pilgrim, but
a pilgrim favored by the gods.
I have sandals, and I shall walk
when I choose.   I have wings,
— wings like an eagle's, and I
shall fly where I will.     And
whether I fly or walk, I shall go with eyes open."
"' I!'   You surely go not alone !"
Ay,   alone,"   I   responded,
thoughts and my fancies, an endless train of companions."
" But surely thou shouldst take one friend at least
for the night, one comrade for the trail? "
" Sweet spirit," I rejoined, " the cheerful face, the
courteous tongue, the open hand, the honest heart, find INTRODUCTION.
friends where'er they go. All camp-fires shine for
such, all doors fly open at their coming. The listening ear finds voice of knowledge, and for the seeing-
eye God paints his pictures everywhere. He who takes
humor with him has princely entertainment with a
crust, and mirthfulness laughs the long road short.
The young need company beyond themselves, but with
the whitened head come thoughts which make companionship."
" 0 wise philosopher ! " exclaimed the voice more
soberly, " hast thou a charm against danger and an
amulet for ill ? Dost thou not fear to leave the loved
^JHe who loves takes all his loved ones with him
where'er he goes^/I answered. " Even their cares and
wants abide with him, and the air which is forever
round him on all sides is as a polished mirror to reflect their faces. Love owns imagination, and in it as
a constant sky she sees forever all her stars fast fixed."
" If we may not go with thee, dear one," she answered, 1 then our conspiracy must be uncovered.
Each year thou leavest us — it is thy habit, and for
weeks we have mistrusted thee. Hence we have counselled — we of thy hearth and heart — and plotted
lovingly, and I am spokeswoman of the plot. We
have decided we will not let you go unless you give
us solemn promise."
" Promise ? I will promise anything — on such an
altar swear at random. Bring out the household.
You are all rogues alike, for they come quickly at your
signal, — too quickly to be honest.    Now see I such
w» 20
a kingdom.
sweet tyrannies as never blessed
could resist ?    I promise to obey."
[She reads.] " We of thy house do hereby agree
to let thee go a-journeying again, and grant thee liberty to be gone for many weeks or months, as seemeth
to thee good, — provided, that of all lovely sights, of
all beautiful things and places that thou seest, of all
strange people and uncouth objects, of all happy days
and farcical conceits, along with all humorous incidents
and mirthful experiences, thou shalt write us a full and
faithful account. And if in journeying thou meetest
with clever folk, with men and women gifted with
mother-wit to make thee laugh, what they say shall be
writ down for us, that we who bide here while thou
farest on may not be lonely, but share with thee the
profit and entertainment thou dost meet with. So
shall this journey of thine be a happy one in truth, to
all of us, and all the days be winged until we meet
again.    Dost thou promise ? "
I Ay, ay," I answered briskly. | The yoke that
Love lays on us is easy and the burden light. My pen
shall keep pace with my feet. For your delight I
will be tourist and scribbler both. You shall see what
I see, — rivers and plains, mountains and snowy peaks,
sunrises and sunsets, with all their glow, and starry
nights, the works of men, and the nobler works of
God. And what I hear to stir my mirth I will send
you fairly written out; so shall your laughter be as
echo to my own. And now the stirrup-cup. I drain
it to safe-keeping of the house. We'll have sweet
meeting after many days." 'THOU   SHALT  WRITE   US.
Welcome, old friend!    A hundred thousand welcomes.
HOU art the man!" cried a voice
behind me, as I stepped out of the
bathroom, prepared for the pleasures of the day as only a man can
be by a bath, — 1 thou art the man,
or my eyes are blind, or the man
that trailed that dreadful trail of the Staked Plains with
me has a double."
" Judge Doe ! " I cried, and our hands met like a
flash. " Not a man on the earth would I sooner see at
this minute than yourself. This magnificent room "—
and I glanced at the elegant car — 1 is not much like
the spot where we made our first meeting." And I
thought of that barren waste of sand where I ran across
him, without guide or water, as he wandered half blinded -_ plied. "For
~^s if you had
not had it
when you did you would probably have been wandering, a madman over the sands in half an hour.
But a fig to the Staked Plains and the old memories !
We are here in this car, with plenty to eat and drink;
and so tell me, where are you going
" I am going home to the Golden Gate," he replied,
" and I have come clean up from Washington to take
this route.    I wanted to escape the dust and the heat THE MEETING.
of more southern ones, the alkali plains, and the hot looking
ochred canons and the Buttes,.
which are all right in winter,,
but which in midsummer make
me feel, as the train
rolls down into them, as
were being pushed into
mouth of an oven.    A
friend told me in Washin
that I could reach San
cisco this way
without the
■■* 26
alkali dust, the infernal heat, and the glaring red
colors, ride four hundred miles between glaciers, and
see such scenery as I never saw on the Continent, and
so I am here. But where are you going, old comrade
of hot Texan trails and arid Arizona? Are you, too,
bound for the Blessed Isles lying under the sunset ? "
"Ay, ay," I returned laughingly, and in the same
fight strain that the Judge had taken. " I too am going to the West; not the West of classic fable, but of
modern fact. I go, not to reach home, nor escape dust
and heat, but to see the great mountains between the
prairies and the sea. I met John Carrol at Parker's, in
Boston, last week, — you remember Carrol, the man we
met among the Nevadas that summer ? — and he told
me that the Canadian scenery was beyond ^description ;
that I could ride three hundred miles along glacial
streams, with the glaciers from which they flow in
full sight, with hundreds of mountains, that have
not even been named, rising ten thousand feet above
the level of the track; and knowing him to be care-
ful of statement, I packed my valise, and here I
" Here I am, too, for about the same reason," said
a quiet voice behind me, and a hand stole slyly into
mine; and looking around, there was Colonel Goffe,
or, as we facetiously called him during the journey,
I the Man from New Hampshire."
" You see," he continued, after I had presented him
to the Judge, " I own a ranch somewhere among the
foot-hills beyond Calgary, and my oldest boy is making
his start in fife on it.   He has been out there two years, THE MEETING.
and I thought I would run over and see how he is getting along. He is to meet me at some station near the
ranch, and is to go through with me to the coast, for
he wrote that he did not wish me to see even the ranch
until I had Seen the mountains, the glaciers, and the
great forests."
How delightful, often, are the surprises of travel!
To think that, coming from different parts of the world,
after years of wandering, without knowledge of each
other's movements or purposes, we two, who had parted
years before in Arizona, should meet face to face in
this palace car, travelling for almost the same purpose,
and with the same object in view, and that we old
trailers, who had so often bivouacked together, and
shared the same blanket, should have slept all night
within a few feet of each other, not knowing ! Are
the meetings of life accidental, or is there a Power
above us which arranges and compels the meetings and
partings of our fives ?
"This is going to be a ha,ppy journey," said the
Judge pleasantly, as he looked at the passengers
grouped here and there. " I can see it in their faces.
Bless me, how fresh the ladies look! There is not a
tired face in the car."
Dear old happy-hearted Judge ! I wonder if the
prophecies of men are not born of their moods, after
all ? For with all thy nice taste and delicate sense of
the fit and the needful, never did I meet a lighter heart
or a happier disposition than thine.
But indeed it was a rare company, for it was wholly
composed of intelligent and refined people, accustomed 28
to travel, and travel-wise. And best of all, we were
filled with curiosity and some of us with incredulity
touching the wonders it had been foretold us we should
see, — such marvels and majesties of nature as in truth
make the ride from Calgary to Vancouver like a journey through fairy and giant land.
Thus, with old friends unexpectedly met; with a
throng of bright and courteous people around us, and
feeling that we were a " goodly companie going to
seek goodly things," our happy journey, as the dear
old Judge had prophetically called it, began.
s^s* 4 ^.^i
jw?*- CHAPTER H.
A feast of reason and a flow of soul.
AKE another cup of this delicious
coffee, Judge," I said to my companion at the table. We are travelling like the gods, and it is fit that
we should fare like the gods.
" Your conceit is a happy one," replied the Judge, as he inspected his cream. " This is
the true nectar of Olympus, if it was drawn from the
udder of a cow. The ancients hit it exactly. Their
heaven was only the sublimating of the earth.    Their
goddesses were their best-looking women, their
crowned athletes, and their Parnassus nothing but an idealized summit of a hill in Attica. We moderns separate our heaven from the earth, and so lose the beautiful sequence of the divine plan. If in the place of theologians we had the old sages again, our children would
be taught the sweet lesson that the heavenly is only
the earthly in bloom, and that
angels are but men and women
who have been educated a little
higher up than the schooling
of this life carries them."
I And you might add," I
suggested, " that this manner
of travel which we are now enjoying is only a modern method
of flying."
" Certainly," said the Judge,
as he buttered his roll, " we
are flying. Count the clicks,"
— and he held up his watch, — " forty in twenty seconds ; that gives us the number of miles to the hour.
Forty miles an hour and at breakfast! Could an angel
keep her stroke with a cup of coffee in her hand?
See! the liquid does n't sway in the cup. I wonder
if the navvies that made this road-bed appreciated their
work ? "
" The passengers do, if they did n't," I responded,
" and that is the important thing, perhaps. The bee
may not know the sweetness of its own honey nor the
mathematical perfection of its cell. But the man gifted
with the delicacy of taste and the artistic sense appreciates both.    The lower order does the work and the AT BREAKFAST.
higher one gives the applause.    That seems to be the
way of it."
At this moment we went roaring over a bridge
whose mighty span stretched in majesty a hundred feet
above the mad water that poured whirling downward
below us. We glanced from the window as the rumbling gave us its signal, and our mind received this
photographic impression : A mountain to the right,
mounded like a loaf, and wooded perfectly from base to
dome; to the left a precipice, lifting sheer half a
thousand feet from the dark
pool lying sullen and black
in its shadow; through this
gorge and beyond, in the
distance, a space of sky a mirror, and under us, the white angry water, — a picture flashed on
us in a second and indelibly impressed on the memory ; a picture which I keep
to this day, and shall keep
till the gallery in which
it hangs, with a thousand
other perfect ones, crumbles to the foundations.
" The history of bridges is the history of civilization,"
remarked the Judge. " Waiter, this steak is a trifle
underdone. Tell the cook to give it a brief turn on
the iron. The cooking is excellent on this line," he
remarked, evidently forgetting what he was going to 32
say about bridges, " but it is not up to the level of the
Hoffman or of Young's; not quite up," he continued,
as if he would, with fine judicial sense, discriminate to
a nicety between degrees of excellence in a matter of
such supreme importance.
" One would not expect, Judge," I remarked, " to
find so old a traveller as yourself so particular touching the cooking of a fillet."
" There is where you mistake," responded the
Judge. " He who travels should be an epicure, for his
taste must be cosmopolitan. He becomes acquainted
with the fruits and vegetables of every zone, the fish
of all seas, and the meats of every country. He acquires knowledge not only of the habits but of the
beverages of all peoples, and of the cuisine of each
nation. The knowledge of what he should have
causes him to insist on his rights, and the cook who
sends me an underdone steak wrongs me as wofully
as a government which should suppress the habeas
corpus. The equities of the stomach should not be
trifled with, sir."
" But what about the bridges ? " I inquired laughingly, "for I must confess I am more interested in
your ideas touching bridges than I am touching
" I am not responsible for your obtuseness in nondiscrimination between relative values. But bridges
are a hobby with me," retorted the Judge. " I studied
civil engineering before I did law, and at that time the
great bridges of the world had not been built. I can
remember when Stephenson laid the foundation of his AT BREAKFAST.
fame with his first bridge, and the poetry of his great
endeavors impressed me profoundly. For a bridge, sir,
is a poem put into structure, — an imagination of the
mind materialized. It stands for an idea, the idea of
human brotherhood and the necessity of friendly exchanges, — that the man on the one side of the river
cannot get along without help from the man on the
other side."
" Who built the first bridge, Judge ? " inquired the
Man from  New  Hampshire.    "Who  built  the  first
bridge ?
| It was n't built," replied the Judge; j it was a gift
of nature in the form of a tree, which the winds overturned,  so that it stretched its trunk of solid wood 34
from bank to bank of the stream, or from edge to edge
of the chasm, — a bridge for the panther and bear as
well as for the hunter, over the buttresses of which
leaves waved, and vines twined their foliage, and under
which the torrent thundered and whirled. Man never
built a bridge so lovely to look upon as those I have
seen in the woods, wind-blown to their places, — the
wind-blown bridge of the forest."
" Bravo ! bravo !" I exclaimed, and I fluttered the
napkin gallantly. | Bravo, Judge ! The poetry of
the theme has found its poet." And I passed him a
section of a delicious French omelet.
"A reminiscence of Paris," remarked the Judge,
smiling as he received it.
I More substantial than the pleasures of memory,"
added the New Hampshire man quietly; and he told
the waiter to duplicate the Judge's order.
"There is a characteristic among you New Hampshire men that I admire," remarked the Judge. " You
know a good thing when you see it, and you see it
mighty quick."
"I see an omelet mighty quick when it's as good as
yours," was the retort.
I The gentlemen are out of order," I exclaimed, rapping on the table. "The question before the house
is one of bridges."
I Bridge number two," said the Judge, " is that of
the settler: two ropes, often woven from roots, with
wooden slats intermediate. Then comes the bridge
with  wooden   stringers, planked  for  heavier  travel;
then the long enclosed bridge.
Mounting still higher AT BREAKFAST.
in the rising scale is Stephenson's great work, the
Victoria Bridge, old style now, but nevertheless a great
achievement in engineering, with its monstrous abutments and its thirty acres of painted surface. Rising
still higher, we come to the Suspension Bridge at Niagara, and the magnificent cantilever structure of this
road on which we are riding, at Lachine; and crowning all, the great Brooklyn Bridge, over which half a
million human beings pass each day. I tell you, gentlemen," exclaimed the Judge earnestly, "the history
of bridge-building, from that wind-blown tree-trunk in
© ©'
the woods to the latest achievement in engineering
skill, is the history of the human race .not only in
material progress, but in the apprehension of man's
need of his fellow-man and the brotherhood of the
race. Every achievement of man is communal. Every
embellishment in this car makes companionship more
entertaining, and draws us closer together by the bond
of common refinement."     And the Judge proceeded 36
to call our attention, with critical appreciation, to the
carved, the bronzed, and the enamelled elegance of the
"That picture reminds me," said the New Hampshire man, pointing to one of the embellishments, a
beautiful bit of Japanese enamelling, — " of a little bit
of personal experience."
1 Waiter," said the Judge, 1 bring us another pot
of coffee and a jug of cream. Thank heaven," he
ejaculated, " that I have lived to see the day when one
railroad management is so intelligent as to recognize
the fact that a man who is rich enough to pay ten
dollars a day to travel in a palace car is accustomed to
have real cream in his coffee. Now, Colonel," he
continued, after he had poured the rich cream slowly
in his cup and as slowly poured the hot fragrant coffee
upon it, 11 am ready for your story. I hope it will
have the flavor of true humor in it as this coffee has
the flavor of real Java," and he sipped the delicious
beverage with the delicacy of one gifted to enjoy the
good things of this world.
| Oh, it isn't much of a story," replied the Colonel
pleasantly, — " merely a little incident." And he filled
his own cup contentedly. " It was in 1868, or thereabouts," quietly continued the Colonel, I when the
Orient began to pour the treasures of her art productions, via New Jersey, into Boston, where alone the
culture to discriminate between the false and the true
in art is to be found, you know, that I was suddenly
seized, as were many others, with the I Japanese craze.'
It was a pretty bad attack," he continued reflectively,   AT BREAKFAST.
— "a pretty bad attack. The papers were full of it.
Everybody was talking and writing about Japanese
art. Now when I buy anything I want it to be first-
class, something to be proud of, and feeling mistrustful of my own
knowledge, I went
to one of the leaders in Boston art
circles, and begged
him to give me the
benefit of his educated taste. He
kindly consented to
do so, and advised
me to allow him to
purchase a Japanese screen, as that
would be a very
beautiful and attractive addition to
the furniture of my
parlor. I gave him the money which he said would be
needed to purchase a first-class article. It was a pretty
steep sum for a screen, I thought, but I knew I could
not expect to get a real gem without paying for it.
Well, the gentleman, after several days of labor exclusively devoted, as he assured me, to visiting the various I Eastern Bazaars,' during which he exhausted the
focalizing power of several eyeglasses, succeeded in
finding what he was after, a real, genuine, first-class
specimen of  Japanese art, and the huge screen was 40
sent down to my office. It was certainly a wonderful
creation. There was a large-sized Durham cow in the
centre of the screen, with an almond-eyed milkmaid, in
a very low-necked dress and high-heeled French shoes,
milking her. The right eye of the cow was fixed
intently on the right-hand corner of the screen, while
the left glared straight at you. One eye was considerably larger than the other, and of a different color.
I naturally concluded that this was a characteristic
of Japanese cows, and mentally made a note of it for
use if I should ever be called upon to discuss the peculiarities of Oriental art. I made a memorandum also
of the fact that there was only half of the cow's tail
in the picture, but as the artist had forgotten to paint
in a fly for her to practice at, that did not much matter.
To the front and at the left of the cow sat a Gordon
setter, about half the size of the cow and twice as tall
as the girl. The picture affected me so strongly that
after I studied it closely, got a photograph of it on my
mind, as it were, I quietly shipped it up to my farm
in New Hampshire, where I felt there would be room
enough for it, and it could add some warmth to the
landscape. I hoped also that among my old country
neighbors who had never studied high art in Boston it
would find plenty of admirers, be a kind of surprise,
so to speak. This would have been all right and safe
enough if my housekeeper had been a woman of sense
and had acted with any judgment; but while cleaning
the house one day, she thoughtlessly set the screen out
on the lawn, and a series of terrible results followed.
In the first place, a herd of cows that a neighbor was AT BREAKFAST.
innocently driving along the street caught a glimpse of
the cow on the screen and stampeded. The harmless
old man was knocked down and seriously injured, while
the cows never stopped running until they got into the
next township, where they were impounded as vagrants,
and that led to a lawsuit which lasted two or three
years and impoverished several families. Next a favorite dog of mine, while chasing a rabbit up the road,
saw the Gordon setter on the screen, and dropped dead
in his tracks. Then a good, honest, faithful girl who
did the milking for the family went out and studied the
milkmaid on the screen for several minutes, and going
back into the house, promptly applied for her wages " —
" That will do, Colonel," interrupted the Judge, rising, " that will do for your first one." And we all
started for the smoking-room. Hope springs eternal in the human breast.
HE ancients dreamed of monstrous beings, possessed of monstrous power.
The Christian Scriptures tell of a time
when there were giants on the earth,
and the sons of God married the
daughters of men, namely, of a time
'when the supernal forces were in alliance with the
natural, and the hidden energies of the upper reinforced those of the lower sphere. Mythology is full
of the same lofty imaginings. Creatures of gigan-
tic size are projected upon her canvas : Cyclops, vast, A VERY HOPEFUL MAN.
abnormal in strength, one-eyed like the headlight of
our engine. Had the man who invented the Cyclops
invented an engine also, I wonder ? Certainly, an old-
fashioned Cyclops would seem no more grotesque or
appalling to modern scholars than a Mogul engine to
a native on the banks of the Ambesi or the shores of
the Nyanza. Then there was Vulcan, that mighty
armorer for the gods; and Atlas, on whose broad
shoulders rested the world; and Minerva, flashing
courier of the Empyrean ; and later on came Thor
with his hammer, pulverizer of mountains, and the
whole body of folk-lore threaded through and through
with the puissance of dwarf and gnome, of fairy and
sprite. All these and other fashionings of the human
mind, purely fanciful or semi-real, have come down to
us from that murmuring past of which nothing remains save its murmurings, all suggestive of measure-
less energies, gigantic forms, and mighty forces. The
old-time world at least dreamed of almost infinite power
and the works of it, in connection with human forms,
or forms suggested by the human."
Something like this was said by a scholarly-looking
man, who stood with the rest of us on the platform of
the rear car of the train, as it whirled round the cliff
which brought us in sight of the blue waters of Lake
Superior, as they sparkled and flashed brightly under
the light of the morning. He who has rolled for fifty
miles along the shore of this majestic body of inland
water, who has seen the summer sky arching the blue
dome above it, its forest-covered islands, the hundreds
of islets that dot its surface, its curving beaches of 44
brown and yellow sand, its deep, secluded bays and
rocky promontories, has looked upon one of the most
entertaining and charming pictures of the continent,
— a picture which delights the beholder as he gazes,
and remains fixed, with all its changeful colors, in his
memory ever after.
I What the ancients dreamed," remarked the Judge,
referring to what the scholarly-looking man had said,
" we moderns see realized. Our telegraph is swifter
than Minerva ; and that common laborer, who is guarding that bridge yonder, can for a shilling send a message faster than they ever dreamed Jupiter could do it.
Atlas is no longer a myth. We to-day know the
power that holds up the world: it is the same that
keeps this car on the track — gravitation. Cyclops is
no longer a terror. He is ahead of us, and our engi-
neer has him in perfect control. Thor is our servant,
and he pulverizes mountains at so much a cubic foot;
while the gnome that bored its way through this spur
of quartz, tunnelling it for our passage, is the diamond
drill." And as the Judge concluded the sentence, we
all retired into the car, to escape the smoke and the
I It seems to me," continued the scholarly-looking
man, after we were seated, "that the thinkers of the
world get more credit than they should, as compared
with the doers. My life has been spent in the pursuit of letters," he continued, " and my thoughts have
been favored with a kindly reception by the world; my
writings have brought me both money and fame. But
as I have seen the excavations along this line: as I   A VERY HOPEFUL MAN.
have been rolled over its bridges, and noted that the
fairy-like iron structure beneath me gave no tremor;
as I have seen that the solid sides of cliffs had been
cut out for our path as if they were made of chalk,
I have felt that the words, and even the thoughts, of
men, however eloquently expressed, were as nothing
when compared with their deeds. I know not who
built this road, whose imagination audaciously conceived it, or whose courage constructed it; but whoever did do it has in it erected an imperishable monument."
" It is indeed a magnificent result," said a gentleman, an old, gray-headed engineer from Nebraska, who
surveyed the route for the Union Pacific, and made for
himself a name in that and other trans-continental
enterprises, — " a magnificent work indeed." And he
gazed thoughtfully through the open door at the level
road-bed and gleaming rails. " It cost not only millions of money, but human fives as well," he continued.
| On this very section, within a space of twenty miles,
over two millions of dollars' worth of dynamite was
used, and some men, I am told, were wounded or
blown to pieces."
" Dreadful! " exclaimed the scholarly-looking man.
| What more horrible death could a man die ? "
" I do not regard death by dynamite as the worst of
accidents," said a voice.
"The devil!" exclaimed the Judge. "What's
that, sir ? " and every eye in the compartment was suddenly fixed upon the man.
He was not a large man, he was even a small one,. 48
and there was nothing fierce or reckless in his appearance, nor would one pick him out as a man specially
endowed with courage, or even gifted with extraordinary persistence. He was not a man of full habit, but
spare in flesh. His complexion was sallow and leathery.    He had large gray eyes, weakly prominent, and
somewhat faded. His hair was thin, not positive in
color, and his- neck had but little base to it. Not
one of us had even noticed him before. Indeed, we
might have ridden with him for days, and not one of
us would have noticed him, had he not given utterance to such a horrible sentiment, an expression which
sounded all the more horrible because of the mildness
of the tone which accompanied it.
11 said," repeated the little man, looking benevolently at the Judge, — "I said I did not regard death
by dynamite as the worst of accidents." I»-
The Judge glared at the little man for a moment
through his eyeglasses. He removed the glasses from
his nose, wiped them carefully, and replacing them,
took another savage look at the man, who sat quietly
in the corner.
" Gad, sir ! " he exclaimed, at length. " I can't conceive a worse death than being blown to pieces, quick
as a flash, without any warning, — think of it, sir, —
by dynamite!"
" No doubt," returned the little man, mildly, " such
a death is somewhat sudden, and, physically considered,
is liable to make a total wreck of a man. The conductor told me a few minutes ago that one of the
gentlemen who was dynamited was actually distributed
— that's the word, as I recall it, that he used — so
much so that there was never anything found of him,
only a thumb or some such thing; not enough, it was
decided by the authorities, to make a funeral of. Nevertheless, I still respectfully maintain that worse things
can happen to a man than death by dynamite."
I will confess that I was never more shocked in my
life than at the horrible account which the little man
in the corner had given of one of the sad accidents
which had occurred during the building of the road,
and it was made all the more horrible from his manner
of telling it; for he had told the dreadful tale in the
O 7
calmest and most placid of tones, his mild, large gray
eyes fixed calmly on the face of the Judge, and without the least movement whatever of any feature of his
face. I think I may safely say that every other gentleman of the party felt in the same way, and that the 50
eyes of all of us were directed upon him in amazement,
not to say indignation.
I What could a man meet that would be more dreadful?" exclaimed the Judge, excitedly, and he glared
at the inoffensive stranger through his eyeglasses as if
he would perforate him.
The stranger never winced under the stare of the
Judge. He did not even appear nettled in the least,
for his eyes, without a shade of change in their expression, fixed their gaze placidly upon him, level with his
" We judge of these things probably from the standpoint of experience," he mildly remarked, " and I have
personally experienced many things worse than dynamite."
" We should be pleased, sir, to hear of your experiences," sneeringly remarked the Judge, and his look
was one calculated to burst his eyeglasses from their
"It is not worth your attention, gentlemen," he
replied pleasantly, bowing. "It is not worth your
attention, I am quite sure, for I have in one sense had
nothing remarkable happen to me, and I will detain
you but a moment, and that because you pleasantly insist upon it," — a hit which must have made the Judge
wince. And resuming, he gave us the following vindication of his judgment: —
II have been shipwrecked, been baked in a railroad
accident, and fired out of a foundry window by a boiler
explosion. I was shot in the neck at Gettysburg, suffered starvation in Libby Prison, fell overboard from a ^
transport off Charleston, and left four of my fingers
in the mouth of a shark. I had my right arm broken
in two places in a New York riot, and stood on a barrel with a halter round my neck in a Southern town, at
the outbreak of the great Rebellion, from sunrise to
sunset. I was buried under the ruins of a building in
San Francisco during an earthquake, and dug out after
fifty hours of imprisonment. I have been shot at three
times, twice by lunatics and once by a highwayman.
I was buried two days by a gas explosion in a mine,
and narrowly escaped lynching last year in Arizona
■through mistaken identity. And though I am over
fifty, and have nearly lost the use of my right leg;
have just had, as I understand, all my property, on
which there was no insurance, destroyed by fire in a
Western town; and the doctor in New York to whom
I went last week for an examination assures me that I
will soon be bedridden from rheumatism, nevertheless,"
he added cheerfully, " while I undoubtedly have met
some obstacles in the past, I still refuse to believe that
luck is against me."
It was not a question of propriety — none of us
thought of that. Had we done so our action might
have been different. But at the conclusion of the
little man's narration of his experiences, of the history of his life, there went up a roar of laughter
that might have lifted the truck from the rails. In-'
deed, it broke up the party. One after another, we
went forward to the main compartment of the car, and
took our usual seats. Several of the gentlemen apparently began to read, but I noticed that they held their 52
papers as if they were near-sighted, and that the
papers shook till they rattled. The Judge sat directly
ahead of me. In one hand he held his eyeglasses, and
with the other he wiped his eyes with his handkerchief.
At last he turned halfway round in his chair, and
bending toward me, while his face was convulsed and
the water stood in his eyes, said, —
" Dynamite !    Gad!  dynamite  is n't so bad, after
all! I
We may say of angling as Dr. Boteler said of strawberries: "Doubtless
God could have made a better berry, but doubtless God never did." And so,
if I might judge, God never did make a more calm, quiet, innocent recreation
than angling. Isaak Walton.
CIVILIZATION means luxury," said the
Judge sententiously, as he looked complacently over the dinner-table, with
its snowy linen, its delicate china, its
burnished plate, its cut-glass ware,
and its vase of woodland flowers. " It
is that fine arrangement by which matter is made to
minister to mind, the lower compelled to assist the
higher. The provision made for travel is the best
measure of American progress."
"Analyze the matter, Judge," I said, as I passed 54
bim the menu. " Analyze the matter, and tell us
what civilization has to do with you and me at this moment."
" Bouillon," said the Judge to the waiter.
I Mock-turtle," I added.
■ >;
r§w\g^ag?wa"i fir
I Mock-turtle is too heavy for summer," said the
Judge peremptorily to me. " Like the majority of
Americans, you have lived in spite of yourself. You
have the senses of a Greek and the appetite of a barbarian. The man who eats mock-turtle soup in summer is a proof that the principle of divine preservation
is still active." THE BIG NEPIGON TROUT. 55
" There's nothing to bouillon," I retorted. " It's
only water with a hint of a flavor in it, and the hint
is n't always very plain, either."
"That's the beauty of it," returned the Judge.
" That's the beauty of it," he exclaimed, as he fixed a
dainty boutonniere of choice flowers stolen from the
vase to the lapel of his coat. " The civilized man abhors grossness. The barbarian feeds at a trough. Edu-
cate him, and he erects a table. Knife and fork replace
his fingers, and as you refine him the number of his
dishes increases, adornments multiply, until at last he
is lifted to that level upon which you and I live, where
the nose and the eye eat with the mouth, and the furniture of the table, in the elegance of its appointments,
magnifies the feast."
By this time, the soup had been brought, and for
a moment the conversation ceased. We were running
between some lofty hills. Here and there we passed a
small clearing, with its little log-house in the centre.
Each narrow field was a mass of woodland flowers,
scarlet, purple, and white, standing as if planted in separate beds, characterizing the field with color. The
cabins here and there were covered with clambering
vines, and on their sodden roofs the birds and winds,
those planters of the air, had sown the seeds for flowering, fruitful growth. Outside, the world was warm
and odorous. The wild-flowers sweetened it, and the
wind which blew the scented air through our open windows and into our nostrils brought from the lofty hills
wild, gamy scents, and pungencies of fir and pine.
The Judge sipped his bouillon delicately, as if every 56
drop were a separate ministration to his palate. His
eyes contemplated with pleased satisfaction, not only
the glorious color of the flowers, the green of the hills,
and the blue sky, but also the amber-tinted liquid in
his spoon; while his nostrils expanded as if they
would inhale more abundantly the perfume that drifted
through the window. It was impossible not to see
in bim the incarnation of refined physical enjoyment,
a man who honored his appetite by gratifying it, but
who gratified it in a manner so delicate that he not
only redeemed it from the least appearance of gross-
ness, but made its gratification the means for the display of his virtues.
" I have travelled," remarked the Judge reflectively,
" in most of the countries of the world. I have suffered in the tropics from heat, and in the Arctic regions from cold. For the sake of seeing a few old
ruins, mostly buried in sand, I have borne the agony
of prolonged thirst on the Desert, and that I might go
a little farther than some one else up some river or
over some mountain, I have inflicted upon my body the
pangs which precede starvation. But I have come to
that period of life in which man ceases to be an impulsive, and becomes a reasoning, animal. And while the
spirit of the tourist is in me as strongly as ever, I nevertheless insist that, in return for my money, civilization
shall give me, as I journey, three things: safety, comfort, luxury. If it will give me these, — and I assure
you thousands feel as I do upon the subject, — I will
give my money, and go and see what it has that is new
to show me.    If not, I will stay at home."
I must confess that I was impressed with the conclusion that the Judge had reached, the more so, perhaps,
because it was the first time I had ever heard it so
clearly formulated ; and I presume my face manifested
the interest which I felt in his line of remark, for after
he had tasted of each of the vegetables before him, as
O 7
a  lady might  examine  several samples of  lace, and
deftly prepared the fish for its dressing, he resumed: —
" I am an illustration of my theory, sir. I have
crossed the continent twenty times, I presume. I have
traveled on every other line repeatedly, but I had never
seen the prairie lands west of Winnipeg, which an old
friend who came over this route last summer wrote me
- were as beautiful as the valley of the Platte, and as
lovely as the Laramie plains — the most beautiful
stretch of prairie land in the world,' he said. And
from the Black Canon of the Fraser River he wrote me
eight pages describing it. He is nearly seventy years
old, bear in mind; — eight pages of description — an
old forty-niner at that — that was simply wild, sir,
wild and extravagant as the description of a boy; and
it is because of those letters from my old friend concerning these Canadian prairies we shall see to-morrow,
and the four hundred miles of mountain scenery lying
west of the prairies, that I undertook the journey.
But, sir," he added, with emphasis, "I would never
have undertaken it unless I had ascertained that I could
travel with safety and with comfort, and be provided,
as I journeyed, with certain luxuries."
" Nevertheless, Judge," I remarked, " the loveliness
and majesties of nature are a compensation for occasional deprivations, are they not?" 60
1 Within certain limitations, I should agree with
you," he replied. " But for myself, the amber of my
bouillon assists me to appreciate more perfectly the
flowers blooming in that little clearing. The taste of
this salmon in my mouth makes that stretch of water
yonder seem more charming; and I am confident that
the ice-cream, the nuts, and the coffee which I see are
provided for our dessert will give to the sky a bluer
tint, and add softness to the fleece of yonder clouds."
Thus the conversation flowed on, while the train
glided along past the beaches of the bays that set
deeply into the mountains which characterize, with their
massive formations, the northern shore of Lake Superior. The Judge was in his best mood, and talked as
only one who has seen much of the world, its peoples,
and its ways can talk. Each course was duly honored,
as if it were the only one to be enjoyed, and the " table
hour," as the Judge, with a pleasant conceit, named it,
was the one so utilized that while it ministered most
fully to the wants of the body, it contributed beyond
any other to the pleasures of the mind.
I Hello ! " I exclaimed, as I glanced at the time-table,
which, in the form of an illustrated itinerary, lay on
the table.    " We must be nearing the Nepigon."
I The Nepigon ! " exclaimed the Judge, with the ardor of a sportsman. " More monstrous trout have been
caught in the Nepigon than in any other river on the
continent. I have friends who firmly believe that it
is one of the four sacred rivers that flowed out of
think I would agree with them,"
returned, " if they would make their Paradise include
not only the river, but the lake in which it heads.
For if Lake Nepigon was not in Paradise, it was a
great loss for Paradise." And as I spoke, the train
struck the bridge which stretches across the noble and
noted river, and as it was gliding smoothly on it slowed,
and suddenly stopped.
| Oh ! oh ! oh ! I
I See, Tom ! Look ! "
" Jones, where are you ? "
" Fo' de Lawd, Mars' Judge ! " exclaimed the waiter.
I You two gem'men git to de hind end ob de kyar, ef
you wants ter see what 's gwine on down dar in dat
ribber! "
The excitement was contagious, for the car was full
of shouts, cheers, and exclamations. The Judge
rushed down the aisle to the rear- of the car —
I Great heavens ! " he exclaimed, as he reached the
platform.    " Look at that! "
A hundred feet below us flowed the noble current,
a deep, wide, strong-moving mass of water. Here and
there an eddy marked it with its huge circumference.
But in the main it moved downward toward the great
lake, shining in full view, as a river flows between wid-
ened banks and with plenty of room. In the middle
of the river nearly under us was a canoe with an Indian
at either end, and a man in a velveteen jacket standing
in the centre. In his hands was a rod, and the tip
of the rod was doubled backward nigh to the reel, the
ringing whir of which filled the air. His pose was that
of an angler who had struck a fish — a big fish, a fish 62
that is fighting him gamely and stubbornly, and which
he is resisting with the cool, determined skill of a vet-
eran of the rod.
" What a picture ! " exclaimed the Judge. " Gad !
what a picture ! "
Well might he exclaim, " What a picture ! " The
wide river; the island-studded lake, into which it
emptied; the lofty banks ; the great dome of blue sky
above; high over the stream, as if hung in mid-air, the
long train, every window filled with heads, every platform crowded with forms, the engineer, an angler himself, hanging out of the cab, swinging his hat; below,
7 O        O O        O 7 7
the canoe, the ochred Indians, the bent body of the
angler, the swaying, quivering, doubled-up rod, — what
a picture!
Suddenly, we who were looking saw the rod
straighten. Some of us knew what it meant. The
Judge clinched my arm, and in an instant out of the
water came the trout, mouth open, fins extended, tail
I Jerusalem! " screamed the Judge. " He 's a
twenty-pounder !"
Dear old Judge, thou hadst the true angler's eye —
that eye which enlarges and multiplies by a happy
trick of vision, not merely the size of the fish, but the
enjoyment of the soul. Ay, ay, it was a twenty-
pounder to both of us old sports for the instant, and if
the envious scales did shrink the noble form to shorter
and thinner proportions, it could not rob us of the
ecstasy of our first estimate, thank heaven !
And the fight that followed — what words may set
IBM »•—
it forth ? 0 anglers, shut your eyes, and see and hear
it from behind your closed lids. Call memory to your
aid — the memory of the sternest fight you ever fought,
of the swiftest torrent, of the wildest pool, of that favorite rod smashed to splinters, of paddle broken, of the
" biggest fish that ever swam " lost or won. Stop, I
say, and from behind closed lids see all this, and you
will see what we saw under the great bridge over the
Nepigon on that bright June day. .
Whoever the Man in the Velveteen Jacket might be,
O 7
he was of the right sort, an angler of whom anglers
need never be ashamed ; for as he fought that fish he
gave us such an exhibition of angler's fence as ranked
him one of the best that ever fingered reel. An eight-
ounce rod against an eight-pound fish, a strong, deep
current, and a Nepigon canoe: grant anglers such
conditions, and how many shall make a winning fight ?
Twice the huge fish broke water, and twice the long
train cheered him to the echo. The Judge was wild.
Each time the fish broke the surface, he fairly jumped.
He leaned far over the rail. He swung his hat, and
when the monstrous trout broke the surface the second
time, he yelled,—
I Save him, save him, and I'll nominate you for the
Presidency !"
Once the great fish for an instant burst through his
opponent's guard. Once I must confess my heart sank
within me, as a stone sinks to the bottom of a well.
When he was a hundred feet from the canoe, the rod
nearly tip and butt, and the silk line stretched through
the air like a wire, the fish doubled and lanced back- 66
ward like a flash. We saw his wake, — that sharpened
wedge of water which anglers dread, — and as he went
under the canoe, and in the stillness that had come to us
we heard the line rattle on the bark, a groan escaped
the Judge. He rolled his eyes upward, and roared as
if stricken with pain, —
I Great Scott! he 1 lost him ! "
But the fish was not lost. The angler recovered his
advantage, and fought the fight to the end, skilfully
and coolly. The fish was deftly gaffed by one of the
Indians, and quickly lay on the bottom of the canoe.
The Indians seized their paddles, and the light craft
glanced toward the western bank, the man unjointing
his rod as the boat shot along, and in a moment they
came panting up the embankment with a-huge hamper
in their hands, in which, amid flowers and grasses, lay
six other trout, nearly as large as the one we had seen
Seldom is such a reception granted to a mortal as
was given to the Man in the Velveteen Jacket. The
engineer cheered and swung his hat; the fireman,
sooted and begrimed, capered and danced on the coal-
box like an electrified imp ; the passengers yelled ; the
ladies fluttered their handkerchiefs; while we anglers
of the party fairly took him in our arms and lifted him
on to the platform, where the Judge enfolded him in
an embrace which the stranger will never forget, — a
O o        7
hug such as an old angler gives a younger one to
whom he is indebted for an exhibition of skill which
has brought back to his memory all his own former
victories, and proved to his anxious soul that the gentle
ait is not being neglected. THE BIG NEPIGON TROUT.
Never fear, never fear, dear old Judge, that the art
of all arts will be lost, or the skill of trained finger and
eye be forgotten. We shall pass ; but still the streams
will flow on, the pools will go round, and the trout
love the coolness of springs and the rush of swift
waters. The boys will grow up like their sires, loving
water and sun, loving forest and rapids. With brown
faces and hands, and with eyes keen as ours, they will
stand where we stood, they will boat where we boated,
they will camp where we camped, and the dead ashes
of fires that we kindled they will kindle to new life
again. The gentle art will live on, while nature is
nature and mankind is man. WtefiBitiS/
A merrier man
Within the limit of becoming mirth
I never spent an hour's talk withal.
"HE chief est charm of travel is found,
perhaps, in the novel and entertaining characters that we meet, and the
pleasant rencontres which occur.
t fThe sweetest flowers will not come to
us; we must go to them./ They grow
in the nooks and corners of fences, in cracks and crannies of the rocks, in crevices of the cliffs, in strange
out-of-the-way places, where only the eye and the nose
of the trailer may find them. In respect to human
companionship it is the same; the quaint, the intelligent, the charming, the original and piquant personalities of the race are not born in groups; they are not THE MAN IN THE VELVETEEN JACKET.
found in clusters, nor can we call them to our homes.
To find them we must travel; we must look them up;
we must go where they are; we must put ourselves
upon currents which cross their currents, and so, like
birds flying at random, be blown together.
The finest delight of travel is that of the casual
companionships it brings us, the smiles and the bright
faces that we see, the kindly hands that we clasp, or
the warm hearts that we meet in our need. These
make the charm of journeying, and cause the recollections of voyaging to be so delightful.
«/     ©       © ©
And this man—this Man in the Velveteen Jacket
— was such a gift to our party. It is true, he had
come to us recommended as no other man might be.
His introduction accredited him to our fellowship as
the word of a king might not do, and from the moment he entered our circle it was as one who belonged
there, as one who filled a place that had waited for
him and remained unfilled until he came ; and into it
he dropped without undue familiarity, on the one hand,
and without the least awkwardness or embarrassment,
on the other.
His manners were simply charming, because of a
happy mingling of modesty and self-possession. He
was a natural humorist. His humor was so quaint that
it amused, and so gravely expressed that it puzzled.
As you looked at his face and listened to the tones of
his voice, you were divided in feeling as to whether
you were listening to fiction or to fact; and even amid
your laughter at the ludicrousness of the creation, you
found yourself querying whether the   source of  the 70
fun at which you were laughing was not found in some
serious occurrence.
" You did it well," said the Judge, referring to his
contest with the trout. " You never made a miss with
eye or finger. You handled the rod as only a man
can who has handled it from boyhood."
The Man in the Velveteen Jacket looked at the
Judere for a moment, with the most mirthful of lights
in his eyes, as one who found in his positive assertion
a suggestion of fun, which all of us appreciated at the
Judge's expense when he remarked, —
" I am happy to think that my manner of fighting
the fish met the approbation of an old angler like
yourself, but as measured by time I would scarcely be
regarded as an expert, for I never touched a rod till I
was twenty-five."
% Incredible ! " exclaimed the Judge. " Why, sir, I
have always maintained that no man could become an
expert with the rod unless he began practice with it as
a boy, — grew up with it, as it were."
" Nevertheless," continued the stranger pleasantly,
" the fact is as I have stated it. Until I was twenty-
five I used the gun. Shooting was a passion with me.
It was my favorite pastime, and I presume I should
never have used the rod at all — which I have done
exclusively since a certain event — unless I had met
with a great misfortune, caused by a dog, — a misfortune which made me lose all taste for shooting and
the sight of a bird dog absolutely disagreeable to me.
Yes, gentlemen," continued the Man in the Velveteen
Jacket, earnestly, " my last experience with a dog was »■"
a most unfortunate one, and although years have
elapsed since I met it, I cannot recall it, even at this
distance of time, without an involuntary shudder.
Strange that a man's life can be seriously affected by
what seems at the start a trivial event! But I assure you that my profession, the location of my residence, and my domestic connection, are all to-day
different from what they would have been had I never
met that dog."
It is needless to say that the astonishing statement
of our companion excited our curiosity to a degree,
and our looks doubtless plainly apprised him of the
fact; for after a moment's pause, he took his pipe
from his mouth, and having emptied the ashes into
the cuspidor as carefully as if he were smoking in
a friend's parlor, with his friend's wife sitting in the
next room, in exact range of the door which commanded his position, he continued, —
" Perhaps it is only fair that I should satisfy your
curiosity, which I see I have awakened by what may
seem to you an extraordinary statement; and if it will
entertain you to hear a story which has little to recommend it save its novelty and its sadness, I will, at
the cost of painful reminiscence, tell it to you."
Upon this the Judge, who, because of the dignity
of his official position as well as of his years, and, I
may add, the urbanity of his manners, was by mutual
assent of us all regarded as the natural spokesman of
the party, replied, —
" I must confess that I am curious to hear the history of the dog, or of your experiences with the dog ; 74
and I doubt not that all the gentlemen here share this
sentiment with me; and if your feelings will allow
you to satisfy our curiosity, I beg you to do so. For
it does seem extraordinary that a dog should be able
to influence a man's life to such an extent as to change
the direction of his activities, and even affect his domestic environment."
I You must know, then, gentlemen," resumed the
man, " that I studied for the practice of medicine, and
was engaged to the daughter of a noted physician, who
lived in the northern section of Vermont and enjoyed
a large and lucrative country practice. He was a man
of large attainments and of a high spirit. His only
daughter was a young lady of unusual beauty, and had
been endowed at birth with a liberal 'share of her
father's abilities and his excitable temperament. She
was a lovely girl, and, being sole heiress prospectively
to the old doctor's property, was much courted by her
gentlemen acquaintances. When, therefore, our engagement became known I was, with good reason,
heartily congratulated by the generous, and cordially
hated by the envious. I had just been graduated at
the medical school, and at the close of my summer
vacation it was arranged that the lady and myself
should be married. This would enable me to begin
my practice under her father, the old doctor, whose
business would thus naturally, in the course of time,
fall into my hands. I submit, gentlemen, if any young
man ever stood face to face with a more auspicious
future. I was soon to be united to a beautiful girl,
with an  ample fortune, and be thereby admitted to I~
a professional connection which was both gratifying to
my vanity and satisfactory to my ambition. And even
now, after years have passed, I cannot recall without
emotion that I lost wife and fortune, and that a most
beautiful arrangement of Providence was disturbed,
broken up, smashed, so to speak, by a miserable dog."
By this time, as can well be imagined, we were all
of us intensely interested in the gentleman's narrative.
We felt that his had been no common experience, but
that in the life of the Man in the Velveteen Jacket there
was embodied a series of startling mishaps, and that,
however he might strive to disguise it by forced calmness of voice or restraint of feature, we were nevertheless about to listen to the recital of a lifelong bereave-
ment — perhaps of a tragedy. We therefore drew our
circle the more closely around him, that we might not
lose a single word that came from his lips. And I could
see that the Judge, who was endowed with acute sensibilities, had prophetically sensed what was coming, for
his eyes glistened appreciatively behind his glasses, and
his large checked silk handkerchief was spread carefully over his plump knees, ready to his hand.
" It all happened in this way," he continued, after
a moment's silence, devoted doubtless by him to sad
recollections. " It all happened in this way. A few
days after Commencement, when I had everything
packed, and was ready to go to the doctor's to make
the preliminary arrangements for the wedding, a club
of fellow-sportsmen invited me to dinner. I had, of
course, a most enjoyable evening. I believe there was
not a man at the table over whose dog I had not shot;
J 76
and between the speeches, the songs, the anecdotes,
and the reminiscences of flood and field, our mirthful-
ness was unbounded. All knew of the good fortune
ahead of me, and each and every one, I verily believe,
heartily rejoiced at it. Amid all the changes of life,"
said the Man in the Velveteen Jacket reflectively,
" amid all the changes of life, and the passage of years
which have obliterated much, I have never forgotten
that happy evening, or the features of a single face
around those tables."
" Amen !" exclaimed the Judge, who was himself a
noted sportsman. " Amen to the noble sentiment.
..There is no comradeship like that of the woods and
waters, no friendship like that of out-door men/> And
the old sportsman's eulogy was greeted by the applause
of us all.
" The next morning I was at my bank, getting
a check cashed, en route for the depot, and being
pressed for time, was getting hurriedly into a coupe
at the door, when two friends — a committee appointed
by the club — rushed up to the carriage, having a
large pointer dog and a speech to deliver to me. I
hastily explained my position to them: that I had n't
a minute to spare, and that I must reach the train;
that the coupe was full of parcels and baskets ; that I
was truly grateful, but I did not see how I could make
room —
" I am not sure that my friends heard me clearly,
for there was a great noise in the street, and the
driver, who knew that there was n't an instant to lose,
had started his horse.    Be that as it may, the dog was THE MAN IN THE VELVETEEN JACKET.
delivered to me. For, unfortunately, the window of
the coupe was open, and my two friends, seizing the
dog in their hands, pushed him with great merriment
through the aperture, throwing a huge parchment
pedigree into my lap at the same time.
" As might be expected, the dog was considerably
distributed  when  he  landed  in  the  carriage.     One
muddy forefoot went in between my shirt-front and
white vest, and the other lanced along the back side
of my neck. His right hind foot was buried in a
basket of grapes, and his left had ploughed through a
huge and costly bouquet of flowers, bursting the band
which held them together. Still, I reflected that the
dog wasn't to blame for being so unceremoniously
thrust through a window, and the motive on the part
of my friends which prompted the gift was touching.
So I collected the different parts of the dog as much
as I could, brought him to one centre, as it were,
and pressing him down between my legs, tied him
by a neck-rope to a big telescope valise on the seat
beside me.
" I had just got the dog safely fixed in this manner,
and was   collecting  the   scattered flowers, when  the
coupe thundered up to the depot.    The Jehu jumped ■
from his box and threw open the door, crying, j Hurry
up, zur, not a minit to spare.'
" I grabbed the basket of grapes in one hand, my
hat-box in the other, and jumped to the pavement.
But the dog was as anxious to get out as I was. For
as I was making my exit he bolted between my legs,
my big valise was yanked from the seat, and striking 78
me between the shoulders, knocked me on top of the
dog. Thinking I had done it on purpose, he whipped
his tail between his legs and rushed into the depot,
yelling at every jump, with the valise thumping along
after him, while I plunged for it in order to recapture
the dog.
" Now there happened to be a big, corpulent hack-
man carrying a huge trunk on his shoulders across the
platform, and my dog, like an infernal idiot, fetched a
circle clean round his legs, and then started to jump
the track. The man's feet were jerked from under
him, the big trunk dropped heavily to the platform
and burst open, and my valise flew around and hit him
in the stomach as he sat down; while the dog, who
had begun to feel that he was being unjustly treated,
doubled back and charged at the big hackman with
© O
bared teeth and tail stiff as a ramrod. I never saw
a madder man or a worse muss in my life. The
hackman addressed ine in language which was simply
frightful, and I was inexpressibly grateful when, with
the help of a brakeman, I succeeded in getting that-
dreadful dog into the baggage-car and saw him lashed
safely to a stanchion. The flowers were lost, the
•basket of grapes was left behind, my clothes were
tracked all over as if I had served as a mat to a dog-
kennel, and my poor valise looked as tired as a compositor at four o'clock in the morning.
" I got an express tag and wrote my name on it, and
where I was going, gave the dog some water and the
baggage-master two dollars to put him off carefully at
the station where I was to stop, and then I went back •*■
to the parlor car and spent an hour with the porter
in getting the dog tracks off my wardrobe.
"Well, along in the afternoon, when we had got
well up into Vermont, the train stopped at a small
station for wood and water, and I strolled forward to
see if my dog was all right and make his acquaintance
a little. To my horror, I discovered that a new baggage-man had come aboard, and reading the directions
wrongly, had put my dog off at a village nearly fifty
miles back in New Hampshire. There was only one
thing to do, and that was to go back after him. Fortunately the down train was due in a few moments,
and when it came in I boarded it. I reached the
town about seven in the evening, and not a bit too
soon, for my dog had already made a record for himself, and was acting in a manner to secure an obituary
notice of at least a column in length in the next issue
of the village paper. The station-master had received
him from the baggage-man, and not knowing to whom
he should deliver him, had very properly tied him to a
trunk in the baggage-room, locked him in, and gone
home. In two or three hours he became tired of waiting, and gnawing his rope in two went out through the
window, taking half the sash with him. No sooner
had he touched the ground than the station-master's
dog pitched upon him, and after a short experience he
started up the principal street of the village, as near
the centre as a dog in a hurry could estimate with my
dog in exact line and only one jump behind him. The
two had gone into the station-agent's house, as near the
same instant as they could have done if they had prac- 1
ticed a hundred years. The man was at supper with
his family, in the act of saying grace, and when the two
dogs went under the table they lifted it as much as
three feet straight up in the air. The agent's wife
went into hysterics, his oldest daughter fainted where
she sat, and the man, without waiting to collect his own
dog, chased mine into the street with a shot-gun in his
hand, yelling I Mad dog ! mad dog!' at the top of
his voice. He would undoubtedly have killed my dog,
had he not stopped to take aim, and it was owing to
this slight mistake, probably, that my dog escaped with
his life.
" I never knew how I got out of that town alive, for
I insulted every man that spoke to me, and got into
two fights while the light lasted. But I did, and had
the dog with me, too, for I was pretty hot over the
treatment we both had received in that village, and
moreover, I hold that every man ought to stand by
his dog."
" That's right," said the Judge, as he wiped his
eyes. " Yes, every man ought to stand by his dog, in
court and out of court."
And for several minutes the Man in the Velveteen
Jacket was unable to proceed because of the emotions
his story had elicited from those who sat listening to
his vivid narration.
" But all this," he resumed at length, — " all this, in
itself considered, was of very little importance, nothing
more than any man who has had a dog with a pedigree given him might expect to have happen. I
would not even have mentioned it were it not that it is- THE MAN IN THE VELVETEEN JACKET.
necessary you should know these precedent trivialities
in order that you may appreciate what follows, and
understand how it was that the dog ruined me, and I
became an angler.
" I got the dog home at last, and put him into the
hospital, for he had been considerably rattled and was
out of repairs, so to speak. So I wrote to my fiancee
that I was unexpectedly detained from my anticipated
visit by a sprained ankle, but that I had the ankle
under treatment, and would surely be with her the next
week. I also told her that I had been presented with
a beautiful pointer dog, one of the liveliest and brightest animals I had ever met, and that I would bring
J ©
my pet over when I came, and I pleasantly added the
following: —
"' P. S. How delightful it is, my darling, that both
of us have a pet, — you a favorite cat, I an amiable
dog, — with which to begin our married life and enliven our domestic circle.'
" Alas! how little," exclaimed the Man in the Velveteen Jacket plaintively, — " how little can we mortals
anticipate what is ahead of us!
" The dog was one of those irrepressible specimens
of canine exuberance that you could but admire," he
continued. " He Was a born hunter, if there ever was
one. He was nobly free from partiality, and hunted
one class of objects as readily as another. All scents
in his nose meant game. An old hen was a delight to
his soul, and a calf kept his spirits from depression.
A stray pig was a godsend, and a timid, half-broken
colt threw him into ecstacies.    But if there was one 84
thing on the earth that he yearned for more than an-
other, it was a cat. A large, well-built, positive-minded,
masculine cat represented a whole hemisphere of game
to him. He was a bird-dog nominally, but practically
his pedigree starred him with universal adaptations.
Nevertheless, at the sight of a cat he became supersensitive. At that moment there was no hesitation in
him. He acted spontaneously and in a straight fine.
At such an opportunity he was always at full cock and
went off himself. Then it was that he seemed possessed of a human soul, and to realize that beautiful
moral maxim that I he who hesitates is lost.''
" Oh, Lord!" said the Judge, and reaching up to
his linen duster he extracted a fresh handkerchief.
It was not because there was any remarkable humor
in the story that the Man in the Velveteen Jacket was
telling that we were affected so strongly, but because
© ©   J 7
of his happy mannerism in telling it, and the lightness
of our own dispositions. For he told it with a quaint-
ness of expression and a lightness of touch that left
nothing to be desired by the hearer, and all of us
were in a mind to be tickled, and hence we received
the reflections of his humor as the water receives the
sky, and I have often noted that the humor of the
humorist and that of the audience equally contribute
to the laughter that ensues. Be this as it may, we all
laughed with the abandonment of children at the narrative he was telling. And when he began again he
did so with even a quicker movement and a livelier
manner of expression. If it were fiction he was narrating, he had evidently begun to enjoy it as if it were THE MAN IN THE VELVETEEN JACKET. 85
real; and if it were fact, the original sadness of the
event was now wholly obliterated by the mirthfulness
of the recollection.
" A happier man than I never breathed the morning air," he resumed, " when I started across the country to visit the home of my betrothed. I pictured to
myself, as I swung along the country road, the joy of
our meeting and the happiness of our future lives. I
knew that the old doctor had a temper like a Turk,
and that my beloved was impulsive. But I reflected
with satisfaction that the one could not in the order of
nature live forever, and that the earnest temperament
of the other would doubtless be mollified by the softening influence of my example.
" My dog, to which I had already become attached,
shared the buoyancy of my spirits. He fastened himself joyfully on to every calf that he met, and abbreviated the tail of every chicken he encountered. The
whole country grew profane in his wake, and I
knew that every shot-gun was being loaded for his
return. Happy in the excitement he created, he distributed his favors on either side of the road with
ingenuous impartiality, and hunted with equal zest
the pigs in the meadows and the cats in the porches.
The dogs that limped into their kennels after he had
passed were dazed with the quickness of their experience, and I doubt not that the religious element of
that section remembers to this day his advent as a
11 shall never be able, gentlemen, to make you
understand what happened.    Even to me, after years 86
of reflection, it remains a nightmare of wild sights
and savage sounds; a kaleidoscopic mixture of colors
and forms; a vision of a dreadful meeting and a
more awful parting, — a meeting and a parting which,
from the circumstances of the case, could never be
" With fond anticipations I turned a corner in the road
and suddenly stood within a few rods of the house; and
there, gentlemen, oh, there was my fiancee waving her
handkerchief to me, while the old doctor, seated in his
gig, was proudly showing off the paces of a half-
broken four-year-old colt he had recently purchased.
Impelled by feelings too strong to be restrained, I swung
my hat joyfully over my head, gave a cheerful halloo,
and rushed forward.    That infernal idiot of a dog,
hearing my cry, seeing me swinging my hat and rushing down the road, went for that prancing colt like a
freckled meteor.    The colt saw him coming and gave
o ©
a tremendous bound, and as the dog went under him
in a cloud of dust, he opened two holes as big as a hat
through the dashboard of the gig, and then bolted
down the road.
" Never did I see a horse and a dog lay themselves
lower down to the ground. Each was running from a
motive, and each had an object in view. Under such
favorable conditions their pace was terrific and both
attended strictly to business. The old doctor was
standing up in the gig, his stubbly gray hair pointing
toward the home he was leaving, pulling like a windlass at the reins, his linen duster flying behind him, and
a stream of small bottles pouring out of each pocket! 1
" I stood hat in hand aghast at the sight, but — I
swear to you, gentlemen, had I died for it the next minute, I could not have helped it — laughing until the
tears stood in my eyes. Suddenly I looked at my
betrothed, and then I nearly dropped. I saw by the
look in her face that it was all up with me, that my
world had stopped, and that the sun would nevermore
rise on the hills of my love.
I She thought I had set that miserable dog on the
I She never opened her mouth, but silently went into
the house. I followed. I spoke as a man naturally
would in such circumstances. There was no haughtiness in my voice. She simply turned and looked
at me. Gentlemen, there was no love in her eyes, not
a trace !    Then she said, —
" j Sir !! !'
" Still I fought for my life. Wife and fortune were
trembling in the balance. I saw it. I pleaded. I
knelt, — yes, I knelt at her feet; I poured out my
vows; I seized her unwilling hand; I saw I was making
headway. She began to relent. There was a chance,
a fighting chance, as it were.    My heart bounded with
© © 7 J
hope. Gentlemen, I should have won, — I give you
my word, I should have won. By a close calculation
of chances, you can see I should have won. When,
— suddenly I heard a sound, — a sound I recognized,
and glancing toward the door, there! — there stood
that damnable dog!   And that was n't the worst of it,
© _
he was looking at something ! looking steadily and
fixedly at something, with that coppery and unearthly 90
look in his eyes I had grown to know so well. Involuntarily I followed the direction of his gaze, and,
Great Caesar's Ghost! there under the centre-table I
saw my fiancee's cat — a monstrous, masculine cat, as
yellow as saffron and ugly as Satan !
I Gentlemen, you would like to know what followed ?
I cannot tell you. It was bedlam let loose in that
beautiful home ! My betrothed gave one scream as
the dog and cat met, then fainted. I managed to get
her out of the room and into the hands of a servant
at the other end of the house, and then I went back
and looked into the apartment. There was nothing to
be seen but revolving remnants of furniture and an
atmosphere of yellow and brown which occasionally
condensed itself in the centre and theri broke again
into concentric rings. But I knew what was there
nevertheless. I knew that in that yellow and brown
atmosphere there were two separate, individual entities,
and that they were anatomically hostile and chemically
opposite; that sooner or later those two entities would
be resolved into their elements or would lie on that
floor side by side, dead; and that there would be woe
in that house; and that it was no place for me to be
found in after the old doctor had returned.
" Under such awful circumstances I left the house.
I never went back to it, for the next morning I heard
that the doctor had been brought home in a cart, and
that distributed resemblances to a cat had been collected
and buried in the garden. No tidings reached me of
my dog and I believed him to be dead. But I was
mistaken.    I packed my valise ; I started for the train
with the feeling of a man who has lost all and to whom
therefore no venture has the terror of a risk. I determined to leave the country forever and come West.
For there, I reflected, if anywhere on the earth, amid
new scenes, pursuits, and companionship, I should be
able to forget the miseries of the past or school myself
to endurance.
" With these thoughts in my mind I hurried to the
depot, for the whistle of the express had already
sounded, and hastily paying for my ticket started for
the platform. When, — Great Heavens ! what should
I see but that irrepressible dog, jauntily trotting across
the village Common with his eye open for adventure,
and evidently seeking his unfortunate master.
" And this is the reason, gentlemen, why I gave up
shooting and became an angler."
At the closing word the signal sounded, the train
stopped, under a strong application of the brakes, on
the banks of a magnificent stream, which tumbled
down from the mountains in a succession of jumps,
into wide, deep pools.
" Keep the trout," exclaimed the man gayly, as he
swung himself down from the railing, and landed amid
wild flowers that bloomed as high as his waist; " keep
the trout for your larder; I shall duplicate the string-
before evening."
I Give us your card," yelled the Judge, as the train
started, and he flung his own pasteboard upon the
track; " give us your card; how shall I know where
to find you next summer ? " 94
" I have n't any card," returned the stranger, calling
pleasantly to us as the train receded, " but come next
year to the Nepigon and bring all your friends, and
you '11 find the Man in the Velveteen Jacket on one of
the pools." CHAPTER  VI.
.Great contest follows and much learned dust
Involves the combatants, each claiming truth,
And Truth disclaiming: both.
NE of the largest cities on the conti-
> nent will stand here within fifty
* years," said the Judge; and he
spoke as a man accustomed to
know the reasons for his judgment.
This sentence was delivered to
our group as we stood on the wharf at Port Arthur,
watching the huge steamer, just in from Owen's Sound,
unload its monstrous cargo of freight. Its passengers,
having landed an hour before, were now rolling west-
■rtrffc 96
ward to the prairies, the mountains, and the shores of
the mild ocean.
" I think just as you do," said a gentleman near us;
" I think just as you do, sir; and," he added firmly,
" I have put up money on my faith."
The voice sounded familiar, very familiar. I glanced
at him, but I could not place him for an instant; and
then — why, certainly, — the years do change us, —
don't they ? Gray ? of course he should be gray, and
I thought of my own head, and, advancing a step,
reached out my hand.
" Mr. Pepperell," I said, " I am delighted to greet
you; I did not recognize you at first; your hair is
whiter than it once was. Every strong stalk flowers
at last, eh ? "
11 did not recognize you, either," replied Mr. Pepperell, returning my greeting with cordiality. " I
did n't recognize you, either, at first, but it was n't
because of your whiter head, but because of the bronze
on your face. You look like an Indian from the
" I feel like an Indian at least three times a day," I
replied ; " and the Judge here is making an epicure of
me. Mr. Pepperell, allow me to present you to Judge
John Doe, of San Francisco," I added. " Judge, this is
Mr. Pepperell of Boston, a capitalist of the Hub, and,
better than all, a gentleman. I am happy to be the
means of bringing you two together." I said it heartily, for I knew them both to be gentlemen of standing,
amiability, and wit.
"May  I  ask, Mr. Pepperell," I said, after he had THE CAPITALIST.
been presented to the other members of the party,
" may I ask on what grounds you expect a city to be
built here in this great opening between the mountains,
on the shores of Thunder Bay ? "
" The site of great cities," answered Mr. Pepperell,
— and he spoke with that positiveness of expression
and breadth of knowledge which characterizes the sue-
cessful American, — " the site of great cities is a matter of geography.    When God formed the continent,
©        ©       J.      1/
he designated where every city on it should be located.
Granted a population north and west of Manhattan sg^
Island, and New York must be built. Populate New-
England, and Boston is the inevitable result. The
Lachine Rapids and an inhabited Canada necessitate
Montreal. The prairies of the West must have a commercial centre, and hence Chicago. Now look at this
site. These mountains, hills, even the islands in front
of us, are full of precious ores, — iron, copper (and
copper, too, free from sulphur), silver, gold, nickel.
Look at this harbor, fenced on all sides from gales,
deep, roomy, freed from ice each spring earlier than
any other on the lake. Into it empties that river, the
Keministiquia, yonder, up whose quiet channel a steamer
with a draught of twenty-six feet can steam for four
miles. Was there ever such natural wharfage given
for commerce, made ready, so to speak, for the hand
of man to use, as those eight miles of level river
banks? Look at that elevator there. It holds one
million, three hundred thousand bushels of wheat.
Within sixty days two more of the same size will stand
beside it. Four millions of bushels accommodated
where two years ago commerce had not laid down a
single grain. How many elevators do you think,
Judge, will be on that bank ten years from to-day?
Last year those prairies to the west produced thirteen
million bushels of wheat. This year they will yield
twenty millions. Four years ago scientific men were
disputing whether wheat would grow on that soil or
not! The wheat area west of us is larger than the
whole wheat area of the United States. The soil of
this vast belt is virgin soil, rich, inexhaustible. I am
talking from knowledge, gentlemen.   I have been there THE CAPITALIST.
and looked into this thing, and I know that under
decent cultivation every acre will yield forty bushels of
finer quality than the wheat of California or Russia.
How much wheat do you think will be raised in that
vast wheat belt yonder twenty-five years hence ? And
how is it to reach the markets of the world ? It must
go south to the States, or it is coming here to Thunder
Bay. These are the only two directions it can take
in its exit. And so I say, and I 've backed my faith
with my money, that here on this beautiful site will
spring up one of the great cities of the continent."
Mr. Pepperell's presentation of the subject was listened to with the gravest attention by all the group,
in which, if the fact must be stated, there was more
money seeking investment than is often found on any
particular wharf. The Yankee can look up a long
perspective with a good dollar at the other end of it,
and this northwestern section of the continent is already attracting a deal of attention in the States, from
shrewd, far-sighted men.
"Mr. Pepperell," remarked the Judge, "my own
judgment, based upon careful forecast, sustains your
opinion fully. Illinois is a great State. It is larger in
arable acres than England and Wales with their population of twenty-six millions. The State of Illinois can
support twenty millions of population easily. But the
productive area of this western Canada is ten times
larger than the State of Illinois.   Two hundred millions
of people can be supported, richly supported, north of
the forty-ninth parallel. Five hundred miles north of
the international boundary you can sow wheat three 100
weeks earlier than you can in Dakota. The climate
is milder in the valley of the Peace River than it is in
Manitoba. These great facts of Nature are significant
and impressive; none the less so because up to this
time they have had little advertisement and are known
to a comparative few. Yes, sir, you are right; there
must be a great city here."
" The fact is," resumed Mr. Pepperell, and he spoke
with the enthusiasm which characterizes the American
when speaking of his country, " the people of this continent have only just got started. On our side of the
line we are sixty millions, which are only the seed of
the six hundred millions that are to be. People talk a
deal about the capacity of this continent to produce
bushels and pounds, grain and meat. WJiy don't they
figure on that higher problem, — the capacity to produce men ? Granted a good climate, a productive soil,
cheap fuel, absence of war, popularized knowledge, and
the ennobling influences of liberty, and what limit can
you put to the development of such a people, not in
resources alone but in numbers? Why should they
not multiply and increase and possess the land ? Unless we go to cutting each other's throats, half the present population of the globe will be living on this continent within three hundred years."
I Gad! " said the Judge, " I was born too early ! "
"I have a friend," I remarked, "who predicts —
and he is n't a Vennor either — that Chicago will ultimately have a population of fifteen millions."
II have n't a doubt of it," said one of the group,
" Eh ! What! " exclaimed the Judge, " how is it you
are so positive ? "
"It is a matter of knowledge," returned the man,
" absolute knowledge."
" Knowledge ! ': exclaimed the Judge, " how is
"The gentleman looked at the Judge contemplatively for a few moments, then said, "I was born
there ! "
" 0 Lord! " exclaimed the Judge, " where 's the
train?" And breaking up with laughter we started
for our car.
No sooner were we on board the train and collected
in the smoking room — that most companionable spot
for smokers on the earth — than the spirit of the
group underwent a characteristic change. With one
or two exceptions it happened that we represented the
great progressive Republic and that large class of
travelers, whose number is legion, that are to-day with
lavish expenditures ransacking the globe — a class who
go armed with more stories and more cash than the
world ever had carried round it before. On the wharf
Mr. Pepperell was the impersonation of business ability
and foresight; sharp, incisive, edged like a razor, a
man whose forecast was that of a statesman and whose
language was that of a prince among financiers. With
millions to invest, he had on the one hand a full sense
of financial responsibility, and on the other, the courage of his judgment. For he had examined the field
of his investments for himself, not trusting to the eyes
or the words of another, and hence he knew the almost 102
boundless resources of the country and had full faith
in its development. ' But once in the car he was no
longer a financier, no longer the business man, no
longer the speculator, but an American traveler, jovial, quaint, humorous, vivacious of speech, and loaded
to the muzzle with anecdotes.
"You would never suspect, gentlemen, perhaps,"
said Mr. Pepperell, as he took his cigar from his
mouth and blew a dozen rings of blue smoke into the
air; " you would
never suspect that
I was once busted
—completely, overwhelmingly busted.
In '48 I crossed
the plains. I was
young. I had an
attack of the gold
fever — had it bad.
I made some money
and got a good deal
of experience. But
on the whole, luck
was against me.
After ten years of
knocking about,
during which I was
the rolling stone of
the proverb, with hundreds of other old time Calif or-
nians I started for the Fraser. My first experience in
British  Columbia was  at  American Bar. below the THE CAPITALIST.
Black Canon, and I shared that magnificent bit of luck
with my countrymen.    Pushing farther up into the
country -- after the Bar
had played out—I struck
one of the tributaries of
the Thompson, pay gravel
of the richest sort. I was
alone and I decided to
work it alone; I had a
mule and a billy goat
that had followed me
when   the    great   camp 104
broke up at American Bar, a hap-hazard impulse on his
part probably, for he was the forager of the camp
and not a man claimed the least ownership in him.
He had probably been lost and won more times at
poker than any other bit of property on the face of
the earth. Indeed, he was the universal resort of all
of us when bankrupted at that lively and fascinating
game; for two reasons, — first, because he was no
one's property, and second, his value was flexible; it
had an elastic quality about it which accommodated
the necessities of the man who had lost, and ministered to the amusement of the man who had won.
The number of men whom that goat had started on
the road to fortune will never be ascertained, and the
multitude who, when they had recklessly gambled their
last article of value away, with oaths or with laughter
claimed one more deal on the strength of that goat as
a personal chattel belonging exclusively to themselves,
was probably equal to the census of the camp. He
had become, therefore, both the inspiration and the
consolation of us all; a piece of communal property
of accommodating value, which every man, at one time
or another, had contemplated with hope or with gratitude ; an object of universal solicitude, and of which
American Bar was justly proud. His temperament and
his habits were such as belonged to his genus. If his
animating principle was ever any other than curiosity,
surely no one discovered it, and if he ever lost an opportunity to hit a man when a favorable one offered, it
never was known. He followed me as my mule ambled
out of the camp as he might any other of the six hun- THE CAPITALIST.
dred men who were there, and attached himself to my
fortunes with that whimsicalness of motive which is
probably explainable only to the mind of a goat.    His
name was Percussion, a name which,
with facetious appropriateness, had
been given to him by a tall Ala-      //*^
bamian   one  morning  immedi-
ately after a personal experience  by  which  the  name
was suddenly suggested,
and which caused the christening to be accompanied
with considerable profanity.
" I cannot say that my affections were greatly impressed because Percussion followed me out of the
camp, nor did I feel the insinuations of flattery because he thus showed his partiality for my companionship; for I had indisputable evidence that in nature he
was wholly void of a conscience, and utterly unable
to distinguish between friend and foe.    Nor was I de-
ceived by the apparent amiability of his conduct, for
during the time he was with me I never dropped my
habit of watchfulness, or saw any evidence in the conduct of Percussion that would warrant my doing so.
If the old reprobate ever dreamed of reform, the vision 106
of the night never affected in the least the habits of
the day.
" You can well imagine," continued Mr. Pepperell,
as he lighted a fresh cigar, " that I worked
v    (I the find for all it was worth.    By eking
"S^Ij    out my provisions with the help of the
-3   trout in the stream, I managed to remain
in the lonely spot for nearly a month, and
I   %\< A'   then, being absolutely without provisions,
7 I was driven to leave; I was the more
willing to do so because, as nearly as I
could estimate, I was in possession of fifty thousand
dollars' worth of dust and nuggets.
" The last evening I spent in the camp I devoted to
arranging  for  transportation   and  to
picturing the delights  of the future.        iv^^gp^=*
Percussion had not lacked entertain-   £■
;.W. 'I
i   . -r -I * ^*?""       1// •
ment, for  while I was  accumulating     jrffihL,/ '<
wealth, he was actively engaged in collecting data   for  reminiscence.    The
white goats of the mountain, so rare south of the national  line, were plentiful  in  the  crags  around  my
v^Ov-    camp, and more than once had I been
amused in contemplating a contest be-
tween Percussion and some f ac-simile of
nWH        his of the hills: a contest which  I  i
bound to say mvanably terminated in
favor of the champion of the camp.   It
was plainly a case in which civilized training had added
to the prowess of nature, and steady practice with a
variety of subjects made him master of his art. ■*•>*
" I was up with the dawn on the morning set for my
departure, and started at once for the little intervale
a mile or more distant, where my mule was grazing.
I captured it without difficulty, and was
in the act of mounting when I heard a
noise as of a world rushing to ruin. The
earth shook beneath my feet, and the
mule trembled with terror. I knew what
it meant. I sprang to his back, and
spurred him recklessly up the trail. I reached the
brow of the declivity that overlooked the gulch where
I had labored. I need not describe what I saw. The
face of the mountain to the west had disappeared, and
in the place of a mighty forest was a broad tract of
bare rock. The Slide had gone down through the
gulch, and scoured it to the foundation ledges.    The transformation was
complete. Not a familiar object was
left, save one. On a cliff fifty feet
above the spot where my fortune had
been found and lost stood Percussion,
his tail trembling with excitement and
his horns lowered. It was the only
opportunity of his life that had passed
I called to him to follow me, but he refused to budge. Perhaps he thought another Slide
would occur, or had a duel in mind for the morrow. Be
that as it may, I left him to his reflections and his engagements, and little thinking that I should ever see
him again, I reined my mule down the trail, an utterly
despondent man."
ed. 110
In spite of the fact that we were listening to the
story of a misfortune that might well overwhelm with
despair any person on whom it had fallen, there was
not a sober face in the crowd when Mr. Pepperell had
brought us to that point of his narration which presented him to us in the most pitiable condition. The
awful ruin which the savage Slide had wrought, Percussion on the cliff in the attitude of defiance, the
trembling mule and the woe-begone rider thus bereft
of his fortune in a minute, — all these we saw as if
painted in striking colors on a canvas. And yet, not
a face in our group showed the least evidence that we
felt ourselves in the presence of disaster.
" I can see," said Mr. Pepperell, as he looked at our
faces, " I can see, gentlemen, that you soberly realize
the extent of my misfortunes, and appreciate the seriousness of my position. I was busted, I tell you, for
I started down that trail without a dollar in my pocket
or a crust in my saddle-bags. And yet fortune was
nigh. For I had not gone a mile down the trail when
I came to a small camp in which I found not only
needed refreshment but a speculation which brought
to me the beginning of my fortune.
" The party into whose camp I had thus fortunately
stumbled was one of exploration in the interest of
science, and was headed by a scientific man of extraordinary zeal, enormous vanity, vast pretensions, and
devoid of common sense.
" Now if there is one class of men I venerate more
than others, it is the scientific class. It is true I am
not given over much to veneration, for as it happens, THE   PATH   OF  THE   AVALANCHE.  THE CAPITALIST.
by some arrangement for which I have never been
able to feel myself responsible, in that section of my
cranium where by rights there should be an eminence,
is a kind of prairie flatness, — a dead level as it were.
It is consoling to think that I am not answerable for
this defect, and I have derived great satisfaction in my
life by shuffling it off upon my ancestors, when at times
conscience rebuked me at some breach of decorum, or
most inappropriate burst of laughter.
" I am happy to reflect that pre-natal influences are
answerable for the major part of my weaknesses, and,
as I devoutly hope, for the majority of my sins. I sincerely trust that they will be punished as they deserve.
The more they catch it, the better my chances appear.
I am ready to accept without reserve the harshest
dogmas of theology so long as they have no application to myself.
" Nevertheless, in spite of this natural defect in my
make-up, I have peculiar feelings toward the average
devotee of science. I recognize in bfm a superior creation. He is the only being I have ever met whose
mind seems able to work wholly independent of facts.
The facility with which he invents his needed theories
fills me with admiration, and the audacity of his imagination in supplying himself with the necessary data for
his conclusions is a source of pleasant surprise. It
delights me to recall that the most noted leaders of
science were certain, a few centuries ago, that the
globe was as flat as a shingle; that the whirling earth
on which we live had no motion ; that the sun, moon,
and stars revolved around it as a centre and sum of the 114
great universe: that the blood in the human body stood
© **
still; and that the worthy successors of these teachers
of accurate knowledge, these men who supplant religion, and substitute knowledge for faith and reason
for piety, are now convinced that all the superficial
phenomena of the globe, including, of course, the five
Great Lakes of this continent, are accounted for by
the almost imperceptible and trivial movement of glaciers. Any class of men with such a record receive
from me the same overwhelming deference which I
involuntarily give to DeFoe, and the author of the
I Arabian Nights.' I yield them the respect and admiration due the chief est romancers of the race.
" I had no sooner reached his camp than the man of
science approached me and made known his mission.
It was to capture a specimen of the genuine Rocky
Mountain Goat.
" ' I am anxious,' he explained, \ to obtain possession,
in the interest of science, of a real Caper Horridus,
in order that I may not only acquire indisputable
knowledge of his anatomical structure, but fix beyond
peradventure, — and upon this, sir, learned bodies have
most differed, — what are his characteristic habits. If
you can assist me to obtain a specimen, you will not
only be a humble instrument of extending the boundaries of scientific research, but I will remunerate you
with the sum which has been put at my disposal by
the learned body of men whose president I am, namely,
two hundred and fifty dollars in gold.'
" I trust," explained Mr. Pepperell, humbly, " that
Heaven has forgiven me for the duplicity of my con- THE CAPITALIST.
duct at that juncture of my fortunes. It was a dreadful temptation. You can see, gentlemen, that it was.
I was busted. The gentleman wanted a Caper Horri-
dus.   I knew where he was.    He was a genuine Caper,
that I knew, and as for
the Horridus part, I
felt I could safely leave
it for the man of science to discover for
himself. Had I reflected I might have acted
with greater innocence.
But as it was, without
an instant's hesitation,
I assured the man of science that I knew where there
was a genuine Caper; a veritable Horridus of the
crags, and that I could lead him directly to his
habitat. But I distinctly declared I would have nothing to do with the capture of the terrible creature, and
that I must be paid my money in advance.
" The man of science was delighted. He paid me the
money without an instant's delay, fearing doubtless
that I would withdraw my offer or lift my price.    He 116
assured me that he needed no assistance; that science
had already ascertained that, while excessively curious,
the Caper Horridus by nature was harmless, and that
no hands but his own should make the capture, the
fame of which would carry his name round the world.
" You can see, gentlemen, that in the case of two persons animated by motives which inspired both of us,
there was no reason for delay. I hitched my mule
therefore in position to facilitate mounting, if, as I
anticipated, I should return in a hurry, and with the
man of science at my heels, proceeded directly up the
trail,     I   did not
J   ~%. know   exactly
t t?>$t        where I should find
my former compan-
Kff^   tili "L T 1
1$W   lon> made no
^fc doubt that the old
reprobate was still
near the path of
the Land Slide,
and that we should
find him in a belligerent mood.
And sure enough,
we had not gone
more than two thirds the distance, when looking carefully over the top of a boulder, standing in an attitude
of listening as if anticipating another Slide, there stood
" Now as you know, gentlemen, there is a good deal
of l dynamite' in a billy goat.    It won't do to drop
on to one suddenly unless you wish to be lifted. Any
man who runs against a goat suddenly without telegraphing him beforehand, acts as if his business education had been neglected. For a goat is the embodiment of a terrific energy when aroused, and nothing
starts him quicker than a sudden appearance. Any
man who approaches him without circumspection is
liable to lose some part of himself, as it were. More
than one man has lost his balance and his self-respect
by such carelessness. Both these essentials of standing and character are apt to remain absent during the
entire interview.
" A goat is endowed with great quickness of apprehension and he acts on his impulses. When a goat of
the masculine gender stands and gazes at you with a
© © J
look of curious deliberation in his eyes, you will, if you
are a rational being, promptly pick the nearest tree and
get behind it. This is the only wise course to adopt.
Nor should you be slow in doing this. It is not safe
to take any chances with a billy goat if he is within
fifty feet of you and has in his own mind decided to
act. You cannot rely on his remaining where he is
any considerable length of time. He is apt to move
suddenly, and when he moves he always moves in a
straight line, and with his objective point clearly in
I To know a goat thoroughly, gentlemen, I am convinced that a man should begin his investigations in
childhood. The knowledge needed is not acquired
readily by an adult. A man can pilot a steamboat better than a boy, but to steer a goat successfully into a 118
paddock without any back action of the paddles is a
feat at which a boy will beat his father every time.
The innocent sprightliness of early life is an essential
element of success in such an undertaking. A deacon
of mature age and dignity of character might do it, but
he would never be fit to hold his office after he had
finished the job. His record would be broken, as it
were. What he had gained in fluency of expression
he would have lost in resignation of spirit and the
sweet placidness of his vocabulary. A deacon should
always leave the management of a billy goat to his
hired boy, and keep out of hearing when the boy and
the goat are in close communication, too. Any material departure from this rule will always result in un-
happiness. The manners of the goat will be spoiled,
and the deacon — if the matter be fully reported —
will surely lose his office.
" A goat is like any other highly organized creation.
He learns evil fast and forgets it slowly. He is a creature of vanity, and relishes success. After he has
learned a man's anatomy by experiment, the knowledge
is fixed in his mind forever. Time may obliterate the
impression he has made on you, but it never obliterates
the impression you have made on him. Years may
pass; your hairs may be whiter and his coarser, but if
he ever gets a chance to hit you again, your years and
venerable appearance will not save you. The old reprobate will hit you in the same spot. I have never
been able to satisfactorily explain this to my own mind,
but the fact remains.    I have seen it demonstrated.
" Yes, there stood Percussion.    I ducked my head THE CAPITALIST.
and beckoned to the man of science. He bounded to
my side, and shaking with excitement, peered over the
bowlder at him.
"' A Caper Horridus !' he gasped. [ A genuine
Caper! A true Horridus!' he exclaimed hoarsely.
' Pedes, nigri 1 corni, circuli ; caput, comutus 1 genus, hirsutus; habitus, agilis; homino amicus.'
And fumbling in his pocket for his note-book, he
dashed around the bowlder and started for Percussion.
" I cannot describe what followed. Percussion was
at his best or his worst that morning.    He had missed
one great opportunity, and was in no mood to be
trifled with. He struck the man of science at the precise spot selected in his own mind, and with the force
of a catapult. He bowled him past the point of rock
behind which I was crouched as if he had been a pack-
basket. His impetus brought him within sight and he
came at me as if I was a land slide.
" ' You miserable cuss,' I exclaimed, ■ don't you
know your benefactor ?' And I went up a tree. I
yelled to the man of science to light out. He recovered his breath and his legs at the same time and rico-
chetted down the trail as if fired out of a columbiad,
yelling, j Caper Horridus !' ' Caper Horridus !' at every
" After him bounded Percussion. Without an instant
of hesitation I followed. I had a longing to get on
to my mule. The man of science reached the edge
of the camp and fell flat, and Percussion struck a
Chinook Indian in a way to increase his vocabulary.
The last jump I made carried me to the back of my 120
mule, and I tore down the trail with my heels in her
flanks. I reached the banks of the Thompson and
went in at a jump. Half across the flood I heard a
fusilade and I knew that Percussion had at last struck
a land slide."
" Rat Portage, gentlemen ! " called the conductor.
I Twenty minutes to see the Lake of the Woods and
the great flour mill at Kewatin ! " "msa
,--«-..>&., ^jt..
" Nature's prime favorites we the Pelicans,
High-fed, long-lived, sociable and free."
EAVENS ! " exclaimed Mr. Pepperell..   " Judge, look at those prairie
chickens! "    We had stepped from
the   cars  at Winnipeg, and as we
struck the platform we found ourselves in front of a heap of grouse,
— a hundred in number, it maybe, — big, fat birds
such as make man thankful he was born with a stomach.    The Judge looked at the birds.    There was a
wistful look in his eyes.    His  lips moved as if  the?
gamey flavor were already in his mouth.    He rolled
his eyes toward me longingly, and queried, —
1 Where did those birds come from ? " r
" From Southern Manitoba," I answered promptly.
I They are as thick as grasshoppers there."
The Man from New Hampshire had been fumbling
at the birds, as if examining their condition, and when
he lifted one, lo ! there was a tag tied to its foot, and
on the tag was penciled, " Colonel Goffe, New Hampshire."
" One of my birds, by gosh ! " said the Colonel.
"Clean from your farm, eh, Colonel?" exclaimed
Mr. Pepperell.
I Certainly," returned the Colonel; " flew straight
to this platform and dropped dead. Knew I was to be
here. I '11 eat him to-night," and he passed the bird
in under his arm between his coat and his vest.
" My conscience ! My conscience ! " groaned the
Judge, as if wrestling with an internal enemy. " The
gods have burdened me with a conscience."
| My bird ! My bird ! " returned the New Hampshire man, groaning in imitation of the Judge. " The
gods have burdened me with a bird," and he started
for the car.
" Halloo, old boy!" screamed a voice, and a flat
hand smote me on the back. " Do you remember the
turkeys in Texas ? "
I Yes," I answered, as I wheeled, " and that the
best snap shot in the New York Gun Club, Jack Osgood by name, could n't hit a turkey gobbler at fifty
feet as he went through the live oaks." And we shook
hands, laughed, and roared, as two sportsmen will when
they suddenly meet, with years between them and some
ludicrous happening. A JOLLY CAMP AT RUSH LAKE.
"Jack Osgood, — Judge Doe, — Mr. Pepperell," I
said,   briefly introducing   them.    " We  shot   turke
together in Texas," I added.
" He shot them, and I shot at them,"
replied Jack. "I never shall forget
how I felt when the first gobbler got
O ©
up ahead of my gun. I shook till my
bones rattled ; it took me two days to
sober down and get steady."
"Did you shoot those birds there,
Mr. Osgood ? " asked the Judge.
© ©
" Certainly; every one of them, sir,"
answered Jack. " I dropped them for
four bags. There are ninety-seven all
told. If you want any, help yourselves, gentlemen. You will find them
good broilers."
I Heaven has not forsaken me ! "
exclaimed the Judge, as he fingered
the breast of a chicken, and liking the
one he had so well, he took another.
" I 'm not mean enough to look a gift horse in the
mouth, Judge," said Mr. Pepperell, and he carelessly
picked up three chickens.
" Where are you going, Jack ? " I queried.
" I am going to Rush Lake, after canvas-backs," re-
© © a
plied Osgood.
" What did you say, Mr. Osgood ? " exclaimed the
Judge. " What was the name you arave to the
I Canvas-backs, sir," answered Jack. 124
" Gentlemen," exclaimed the Judge, " I don't know
how you feel, but I 'm tired of traveling. This steady
rolling shakes up a man of my age terribly. If Mr.
Osgood will permit, I will go to Rush Lake with him.
I feel that my system requires several days of absolute
i I dare not leave you to go alone, Judge," cried
the Man from New Hampshire, who was leaning from
the platform of the car, listening to what the Judge
said. " Your conscience ! think of your conscience.
Where did you get those two chickens ? \ and he
glared at the Judge enviously.
And so it was arranged that we should all drop off
at Rush Lake, and have a few days with the canvas-
backs and the white pelicans, and we started out under
the guidance of Osgood to get together our supplies.
" Ten years ago," remarked Mr. Pepperell, " there
vwere not a hundred white people here. At the forks
of the river was Old Fort Garry, a Hudson Bay Company's post, and that was all. To-day there is a city
solidly built of brick and stone, with a population of
thirty thousand. It is necessary to see such changes
with our eyes to appreciate them."
"It looks to me as  if it had a future," said the
a great future."
I Decidedly," answered Mr. Pepperell. " This is to
be the Prairie City, as Vancouver is to be the Coast
City of the country. The one will be built up by the
inland trade ; the other by its foreign commerce."
"Winnipeg will have rivals to the west, Mr. Pepperell, and don't you forget it in your figuring," observed the Man from New Hampshire. <o
" I don't forget it," returned Mr. Pepperell, promptly. " I have counted on it. But Winnipeg has the
start, a good strong start, over every rival to the west
or east. Her thoroughfares are constructed ; her system of lighting in operation; her water-works provided ; her public buildings erected; her wholesale and
retail houses established, and her trade connections
with the East and the South made, Colonel Goffe. A
financier knows the value of such a start. Winnipeg
has got her grip on the country round about her, and
it will take an earthquake or a cyclone to loosen it."
And so, like active-minded Americans, while buying
our supplies and getting together our outfit for the
camp at Rush Lake, we talked of the future of Winnipeg and figured on its changes.
If there are prettier bits of water anywhere than
can be found in these Western prairies, they have not
been discovered. A few are alkaline, but many are
fresh, and the prairies roll down in billows of grass to
their beaches or flatten to the water through acres of
sedge. Rush Lake is well named, and yet it is not
swampy nor sluggish; for miles of its shore line are
embanked, and its waters are lively. From these banks
the prairie rolls away in waves of fine verdure, and the
eye sweeps unimpeded to the rim of the horizon. Our
tent was pitched on a bank which brought the lake in
full view, and over it the air moved in cool, easy currents. It was an ideal camp for a sportsman, for the
free water was speckled with ducks, and the vast reedy
spaces were alive with their movements.
Canvas-backs,   mallards,   teal,   black   ducks,  wood 128
ducks, curlew, the big plover, and those wonders of
the western land, the huge snow-white pelicans, whose
wings have the stretch of a white-headed eagle's, and
which float on the water with the slow, stately movement of swans, — all were here, and in numbers beyond
counting. On the prairie were coyotes, gray wolves,
and antelopes. What more could a sportsman desire
than such a camp and such game?
I Heavens ! " cried the Judge, " was there ever such
music ? " and he tumbled off his cot.
| A chorus for the saints," replied the New Hampshire man, as he emerged from the folds of a buffalo
robe in which he had bestowed himself near the tent-
pins ; and in less than a minute we were all standing
outside of the tent completing our toilet, the Judge
with one boot in his hand, and Mr. Pepperell discreetly
wrapped in a blanket.    What a morning !
The sun had not yet risen. One great star, a globe
of liquid luminance, hung in the eastern sky. Along
the horizon's edge ran a line of rose. Above it were
the shifting splendors of an oriental ruby. The western heavens were still blue black. The prairie grasses
were wet with dew, and every drooping point sparkled
like a gem. The air was motionless, and the lake from
shore to shore was blanketed with white fleece. And
out of this fleece, what noises came ! The flutter of
plumes ; the spatter of playful ducks ; the pipe of curlew and plover ; the whiz of passing wings; the voice
of pelican; the honk of geese; the low soft sound
of feathery life, seeking, feeding, greeting, filled all the
air with murmurous musical sounds. A JOLLY CAMP AT RUSH LAKE.
I Oh, the glory of the world ! — the glory of the
world! I cried the Judge, as he gazed at the beauty
and breathed the pure air in.
" Oh, the glory of the ducks ! — the glory of the
ducks ! |! said the Man from New Hampshire, as he
listened to the sounds in the fog and thought of the
© ©
broiled grouse that he ate for his supper.
" Osgood," I said, " did a sportsman ever hear
sweeter music ? "
" Never," he responded, " unless it was the gobble
of a wild turkey as he strutted in front of his harem
in some little glade among the cedar groves of the
" Is that coffee I smell ?" queried Mr. Pepperell,
" It is, by the powers ! " exclaimed the Judge, and
he dove through the door of the tent to complete his
" That Judge of ours," said the Man from New
Hampshire, pointing to the door of the tent as he disappeared, — " that Judge of ours is a good deal of a
poet, but he has a well-balanced mind notwithstanding."
" Cook," called the Judge, as he thrust his head out
of the tent in the direction of the kitchen. " Cook,
how soon will breakfast be ready ? "
"In a few minits, Marse Judge, in a few minits,"
responded the darkey.
" Julius Caesar Bismarck ! " thundered the Judge.
" At what hour, I say, will you have breakfast ready ? "
" Fo' de Lawd, Marse Judge," promptly replied the
ebony cross between ancient and modern greatness,
'if. how d' you s'pose dis nigger knows ? " 130
lis voice
" Oh  Lord ! 1  groaned  the  Judge,  and
sounded as if it came from an empty cellar.
" Why do you move so carefully ? " asked Mr. Pepperell of the New Hampshire man, as ready for breakfast we went out of the tent.
" Sh ! " returned the Man from New Hampshire.
" If I don't move carefully the Judge will hear me
With the dawn the lake shore near us had been embellished with a most romantic arrival. A tribe of the
Blackfeet Nation had come in from the plains and
gone into camp. Twenty-six large, fine-looking Tepees were stretched in a row to the east and north of
our tent, and some hundred and fifty Indian men,
women, and children were grouped round their camp-
kettles or moving about at their work. Here and
there stood knots of men picturesquely draped in their
blankets of high colors. These Indians were not vaga-
bonds, nor sots; they were not bloated with liquor, nor
broken down with disease; they were not dirty or repulsive to the eye ; they were fine, healthy-looking people.
The men were tall and well formed, the boys sprightly
in their motions. The squaws did not look like drudges
or human beasts of burden, but like women of bronze
skin, living the life and doing the work of aboriginals;
they were all comfortably clothed, and some of the
girls were finely formed and unmistakably handsome.
There was not a half-breed among them. It was a
camp of full-blooded Indians of the plains.
" Gentlemen," said the Judge, " if I ever lose my
appetite I shall come to Rush Lake." >
d II
Hi *l
" If Canada ever loses Rush Lake, then," retorted
the Man from New Hampshire, " I shall know where to
look for it;" and he measured with his eye the front
elevation of the Judge.
" Gentlemen," exclaimed the Judge, ignoring the
remark of the New Hampshire man, " I wish it understood that this is a camp of sportsmen, and not pothunters. We are not here to make money, but to
spend it; not to supply the market, but ourselves with
game, and therefore I move that we act like true sportsmen, and fix the size of our bags each day by mutual
agreement. Friends should be remembered," continued the Judge, " and I suggest that each man be permitted to kill a certain number of ducks for himself,
and a certain number to send to his friends."
" I move," suggested Mr. Pepperell, " that every
man be permitted to shoot twelve ducks and two pelicans during the week for himself."
" What about plover and curlew ? " queried Osgood.
"They don't count," decided the Judge. "You
can bag all you can."
1 Don't count!': exclaimed the Man from New
Hampshire. " That decision would n't stand a minute
in the highest court.    I know a man in Texas who
started in to eat fifty-six curlew, and when he got to
the forty-second he dropped " —
I Stop right there, sir," said the Judge, shaking his
finger at the Colonel. " Stop right there ! The court
hasn't forgotten your story of the Japanese screen.
The number being settled that each man may shoot for
himself, it only remains for us to decide how many
he may be allowed to shoot for his friends." 134
11 would like to shoot a dozen a day for my friends,"
said Mr. Pepperell. " The station is n't a mile away,
and we can start them east every evening."
" That will do for me," added Osgood, cheerfully.
I If it gets a little dull, I '11 try my hand at the antelopes and the wolves."
11 'm not a shot-gun man, and will live on your
bounty," I remarked. " If you '11 give my Winchester
a pelican each day, and full swing at the wolves and
coyotes, I shall have a royal time."
I Well, sir," queried the Judge of the Colonel,
I how many do you want for your friends ? "
" I have n't an enemy in the State," said the Man
from New Hampshire, " and by the last census " —
I Colonel Goffe!" interrupted the Judge, sternly,
" the court.will not be trifled with. How many do you
want for your friends ? "
I Well, as I was saying," said the Colonel, " I
have n't an enemy in the State of New Hampshire, and
the last census fixed the population at three hundred
and fifty thousand. Of this number only seventy
thousand are voters. I would n't give a duck to a
Democrat if I died for it, so we can chalk off " —
I Colonel Goffe," thundered the Judge, " the court
does not propose to sit on this camp-stool all day, and
if you don't come down " —
I Oh, very well, very well," cried the Colonel, " it is
not good politics to leave out New Hampshire in any
close election, but let her go. Outside of New Hampshire I've only one friend. 1 picked him up this
morning; he 's herding the Indian ponies out there, A JOLLY CAMP AT RUSH LAKE.
and he looked to me as if he had n't had duck for
some time, and that he would prove mighty elastic
when he got duck " —
" Gentlemen," exclaimed the
Judge, interrupting the Colonel, " our friend from New
Hampshire has suggested a
most amiable settlement of the
question. We will abide by
our ruling, and the Colonel
shall be free to shoot as many
ducks as he can for the Indians." And with this decision we all arose, well pleased,
and went for our guns.
Now the Man from New
Hampshire was a wag, dry as
seasoned hickory. Luck invariably assists such a man when
bent on a joke, and luck had
assisted this gray-headed joker
to such an armament as many
readers of this book, I am
sure, never saw. In a gun-
shop at Winnipeg, he had
found an old-fashioned flintlock, known among our
forefathers as a king's arm. It was of monstrous bore,
thick at the breech and thin at the muzzle; with a
strong stock mounted heavily in solid brass, and an
iron ramrod. The flint was half the size of a small fire
shovel, while the pan was as large as an iron spoon. 136
It was a venerable relic of former days and men; a
murderous old gun, if you had shot and powder
enough to charge it properly, and you could ever get
it off; but most eccentric and unreliable in its habits.
The gun was apparently strong as ever, and as to its
barrel, in good repair, but the lock was lashed to its
place by stout leather thongs, and unless the powder
was coarse, the grains would leak through between the
barrel and the pan into the recess where the springs
and tumbler were located. The spectacle which the
Colonel presented when he stood equipped for the day,
— a big powder horn with a wooden stopple under his
elbow, one pocket sagging with shot, the other stuffed
full of oakum and paper for his wadding, the old gun
in his hand, and a white bell-crowned hat on his head,
which he had found by the same luck that got him
his gun, was of so funny a sort that the camp roared
with laughter. But the Colonel took the jokes that we
fired at him with imperturbable gravity, and we knew
that if ever he did get that old gun off, and there
were any ducks in the landscape within range, the
Indian encampment would be fed full to feasting.
In less than an hour each of us had his bag except
the Colonel. " For some unexplainable reason," as he
stated, he had been " unable to get the old thing off."
J © O
But he assured us he had confidence in his piece, and
that sooner or later the world would hear from him.
There was not one of us that did not admire both his
courage and perseverance, for he stood bravely up behind the old mortar and pulled the trigger at every
duck that came by. A JOLLY CAMP AT RUSH LAKE.
" Lord ! " said the Judge, " what would become of
the Colonel if the old thing should go off ? " So we
patiently trailed in the rear of his canoe in response to
the Colonel's exhortation, " to stand by the institution
of the fathers." Advice and interrogations were rained
upon him. The Judge wanted to know "if he had
loaded every time he snapped, and if he knew how
many charges there were in the piece ? " Mr. Pepperell inquired " if he had powder enough to keep on
priming for the rest of the day ? " And Osgood suggested that we each " take our turn and spell him at
pulling the trigger."
Meanwhile, as we had stopped shooting, the ducks
had settled thicker and thicker, till the water was
black and the sedge was full of feathers, and the Colonel worked away at the ancient bit of machinery with
redoubled vigor.   He who says that the age of miracles
© Jo
has passed is an idiot, for that old gun finally went
off — went off at an opportune moment too, for the
canoe was wedged into the sedge, the Colonel well
braced, and the air filled with ducks. Granted the air
black with birds; an old king's arm charged with a
gill or more of coarse shot, and a man from New
Hampshire squinting grimly over the breech-pin, and
there could be but one result, or rather three results.
The gun jumped out of his hands, the Colonel sat down
in the boat with a crash, and ducks fell by the dozen.
It was a monstrous bag in truth, and the Colonel took
the honors of the day and week, for while he averaged
less than five shots a day, still the totals beat every
gun in the crowd.    One thing is sure, the Indians who 138
camped with us on Rush Lake that week will never
forget that old flintlock gun or the Man from New
Hampshire, nor shall we who were there ever forget
the sport and the fun.
HAVE hunted every kind of game between the Southern Gulf and Great
Slave Lake," replied Mr. Osgood, in
answer to an interrogation from Colo-
nel Goffe, as we were sitting, one evening, in front of our tent at Rush Lake,
|* and I can give you as much or as little information
as you wish on the subject of big or little game, bird
or beast. Twenty years ago the big game of the continent could be found north or south of the international line, and even ten years back good hunting could
be had in several of our States and Territories, but
to-day he who wishes to find game of the larger sort, 140
many kinds and plenty of it, must come over on this
side of the line and hunt northward."
I What do you mean by northward, Jack ? " I asked.
I How far north have you hunted ? "
1 Six hundred miles at least, perhaps eight," he answered.    " Last summer I started from Calgary with a
comrade, and fetched a trail on horseback well down
into the great Mackenzie Basin. The Mackenzie, you
know, is a mighty river, bigger than the Mississippi,
they say, and the country it drains is an empire in itself."
I That is a long way to go for a hunt, Jack," I said,
interrupting him.
" You and I trailed farther than that south and
west," he retorted pleasantly. " But you must remember, gentlemen, that from the hour you leave Cal- WHITE  TAIL  DEER. mm BIG GAME.
gary you are in good sporting country. We hugged
the foot-hills from tho start, and we had bighorn, goats,
bear, antelopes, and wolves with which to amuse ourselves. Then you must remember that we were in the
saddle, and trailing through a most lovely country,
without weariness and at no burdensome expense, pushing up into a strange region known only to the Indians
and the Hudson Bay Post folk, through an atmosphere
pure and bracing as men ever rode in. I assure you
that had I not fired my rifle from beginning to end of
it, that two months' trail would have been most enjoyable."
" What is the character of the soil and climate in
this North Land of yours, Mr. Osgood ? " queried the
" The soil is as rich as any on the continent," answered Jack, "and the climate simply perfect. It is
milder than it is here, or even in Dakota or Minnesota.
Wheat can be sown earlier — three weeks earlier, I
should think — than at the national line. The days
are longer, and the cereal growths get the benefit of
©        J © ©
the prolonged solar light; a great benefit, I can assure
you, it is in bringing a crop along fast. At the northern part of my trail I could read a newspaper at midnight without the aid of candle or moon. It is Daylight Land up there, and so it might, in truth as well
as in poetry, be called."
is a
beautiful name," cried the Judge enthu
siastically. " A beautiful name ! Daylight Land ! That
is n't much like the popular conception of Canada,
which pictures it as the home of Ice and of Night.    I 144
verily believe that half the world thinks of Canada as
a cold, desolate country the year round."
1 The world knows nothing about Canada as a
whole," Jack replied warmly. " Nor do Canadians in
general know anything of their own country. They
are not travellers, as we Yankees are.   The old French
stock were great wanderers and explorers, but their
descendants are stay-at-homes. The old-time French
Canadians went everywhere. The grandsire was a
voyageur; his descendants to-day are only habitans.
He fed his sinews on the game of the whole continent.
These eat pease and garlic at home. The fact is Canada knows less of herself than she did a century and
a half ago. She is absolutely engaged in rediscovering her own geography.    The same thing is happening BIG GAME.
in Canada, touching her great rivers, lakes, and fertile
plains, as happened in Italy in respect to Pompeii and
Herculaneum. They are being uncovered and brought
to the light. They have lain buried under a huge deposit of ignorance, and are now being exhumed. There
are a dozen American sportsmen I could mention who
know more about Canada than the Geographical Department at Ottawa."
" Why, Jack," I exclaimed, " you are quite an orator. The Canadian government ought to put you on a
salary to write then advertising literature and make
immigration speeches."
"You can laugh as much as you like," returned
Jack with good-natured earnestness, " but you know I
am right, for you know as much of this great country as
I do, and perhaps more. I wish our countrymen would
learn the facts about this huge empire of opportunity
to the north of them, or that the Canadians had knowledge of it themselves, faith in it, and the right connections with us. Then you would see this western
land jump to the front of continental observation."
" I don't see where the immigration is to be found to
people this vast country," said Colonel Goffe. " The
United States have thus far preempted the immigration possibilities of the world, and stand intermediate
between the great western movement of population
which signalizes our age, and this country, and I can't
see how this Canada of the west and northwest is ever
to be peopled. A goodly number of English and Scotch
are already here, but it will take many years of such
slow additions to people these vast areas which stretch
west and north from this spot." 146
" The people to populate this country," said Jack,
" are coming from Great Britain, the north of Europe,
and perhaps from the States. Americans as well as
Europeans should possess this land. This country is
agricultural, and in a few years a great agricultural
movement from the States northward is likely to take
place. Our tent is pitched at the centre of the wheat
area of the continent. Five hundred miles to the north
and as far to the south from where we sit, and a thousand miles east and west, measure what I call the great
wheat square of the continent. Here is pure water, a
perfect climate, cheap fuel, and a soil that produces
forty bushels of prime wheat to the acre. As the soil
to the south under our silly system of agriculture becomes exhausted, as it soon will be, and the average
yield per acre shrinks more and more, the wheat grow- BIG GAME.
ers must and will move northward. This movement is
sure to come. It is one of the fixed facts of the future ; it is born of an agricultural necessity, and when
it begins to move it will move in with a rush. A
million of American wheat farmers ought to be in this
country inside of ten years, and I believe that within
that time population will pour in and spread over these
Canadian plains like a tide."
"Jack Osgood," I exclaimed, "you are the same
sanguine theorist that you were eight years ago. You
came to Texas to shoot turkeys for a month, and before
half the month had passed you bought twenty thousand acres of land."
" So I did," he rejoined, " and I beg you to remember that I paid one dollar and twenty-five cents per
acre, and that I sold out last year, as you know, for
eight dollars and fifty cents per acre. It pays to be a
theorist in an age and country like this."
" Mr. Osgood," said the Man from New Hampshire,
"I am convinced that you and I are adapted to do
business as partners. If you can select twenty thousand acres anywhere around here that look as those
twenty thousand you bought in Texas did, I will go
halves with you, and we will stake out a city near the
centre of the section at once."
I Come, come," I said when the laughter had subsided, I have done with this enthusiastic forecast and
your speculative talk, and tell me about the big game,
as you promised to do at the start. How far north did
you go, Jack, and what did you find in the way of
game ?
© 148
" I went as far as the Great Slave Lake. The shores
of this lake are the favorite haunt of the musk ox, and
I wanted to get some of the strange-looking creatures.
You can find them on all the upper tributaries of the
Mackenzie River. A musk ox is a sizable game, for the
males weigh four  or five  hundred pounds, and the
females nearly as much. They are about eight feet
long and four high, and have a dark amber-colored
coat. In the fall of the year they grow a very fine
wool. They have a flat frontal, and the horns, which
are very large at the base, grow out of the top of the
skull close to each other, and curve downward on either
side of the head, but turn sharply upward some six
inches from the ends, and are finely pointed. They seem
to me to resemble a sheep more than an ox, but they do PRONG   HORN ANTELOPE.
not have the cry of a sheep or goat, but make a noise
like to the snort of a walrus. They signal danger
by stamping like a buck, or by striking their horns
against the horns of others standing near. They are
courageous, and fight savagely. Even bears are killed
by them. The calf is a feeble thing, and can't follow
the mother for a month or more after birth. The
mothers hide their calves very cunningly, and protect
them with the utmost affection. They feed on grasses,
mosses, and browse, and then* flesh tastes very like
moose-meat or venison, only it is of a coarser grain.
They are shy, and keep sentinels well out from the
herd when feeding, and hence it is good sport to stalk
them. I spent a week hunting them, and had good
success; but I had more enjoyment in watching them
and studying their habits than in killing them, for
after I had collected a few specimen skins I had no
motive to kill farther."
" That's right," said the Judge. " Boys are murderous chaps with the gun, but when a man has shot a
few years he begins to shoot less and study more, and
finds more pleasure in learning than in killing. A true
sportsman becomes, as he grows in years and skill, more
and more a naturalist, and receives more pleasure from
the living knowledge he acquires than the dead game
he bags."
"The caribou are very plenty in the north," resumed Jack. " There are two varieties, the woodland
and the barren-ground caribou. They are found in
large herds around Athabaska Lake and southward of
Hudson's Bay to Lake Superior.    I need not describe 152
them to you, for you have all, doubtless, seen them.
In summer they come from the far north, and feed
around James's Bay. The caribou are good game, for
it takes skill, patience, and physical endurance to stalk
one successfully. When he finds himself hunted, he
travels with a low head, his antlers well  back, and
f f
keeps his body close to the ground. I followed one on
the Nelson River four days before I captured him, and
he came near bagging me instead of I him, for I only
wounded him, and he charged at me like an elephant.
The barren-ground caribou is not much known, I fancy,
among the sportsmen of the States. They are much
smaller than the woodland species, weighing only about
one hundred pounds when dressed. They are very
plenty in the Great Slave and Athabaska Lake region.
Small as they are, their antlers are much larger than
those of the larger species. They have more branches
on them, and are far handsomer. In summer they are
a reddish brown, but in winter almost snow white.
The skin tans finely, becoming very soft and white,
and is used for tents and garments. Their flesh is
excellent, and the fat on the rump is highly prized as a
great delicacy by the Indians and French voyageurs.
It is not difficult to stalk them, as they are not shy
as is the larger kind, and hence it is not much sport
to hunt them. I have seen a hundred or more in a
" Are the buffalo actually gone, Mr. Osgood ?"
queried the Judge.
"I saw three within fifty miles of Calgary, last
year," Jack answered. " I did not kill them, of course.
I dare say they have been killed since. I have a feeling that a few might yet be found by searching among
the foot-hills northwest of us, and I saw a living trail
last summer in the Peace River country, but the buffalo
of the plains is practically an extinct animal. There
is a family or tribe of buffalo, known as the wood buffalo, to the north of us, however."
" I never heard of them before," remarked Mr.
"Very likely," said Jack. "I never did until I
heard of them from the Indians north of Edmonton
last year. There are not more than a thousand all
told, perhaps, but they are noble animals, and the
sportsman that captures one has a trophy of which he
may well be proud. The wood buffalo is much larger
and handsomer than his brother of the plains.    His 154
hair is finer, and his great size makes him a nobler object to look at. He lives wholly in the forest, and is
very wild and hard to get at. But a real sportsman
would gladly ride a thousand miles to get a good shot
at one. I have two skins at home, and I prize them as
trophies of the chase beyond any others that twenty
years of  hunting all over the  continent have given
a is, V
| Are there many Rocky Mountain goats in this
Canadian country ? " I asked.
I Plenty of them everywhere in the mountains," he
answered. " South of the national line they are not
very plenty, but as you travel northward they become
more and more numerous. You will, I presume, see
them from the car window as you ride along, once you
get into the mountain section to the west of us. I see
they have been represented as very shy and difficult to
HnrcnmM»«i! BIG GAME.
stalk, by a prominent sportsman of the States. I have
not found this to be the case after I had studied their
habits   and  character  a  little.    The   first   thing-  to
remember in stalking a white goat is that he is by
nature a most curious animal. His bump of inquisi-
tiveness is excessively large. You must not attempt
to stalk him too much. You must let him stalk you.
If you move he will see you, and away he goes at a
bound; but if you don't move, but remain hidden and
expose something to his sight that he does not understand, and exercise patience, it is ten to one that in
half an hour you have drawn him within range.    In-
v ©
deed, the true rule in any form of hunting is to move
very little and very slowly, or not at all. The adage
that ' luck comes to the man who won't go after it,' is
© 7
especially verified in stalking. I have killed more
game by sitting still than by tramping or riding after
" In the second place I made a very interesting discovery, and I made it by accident, one day. I was
stalking a fine old billy goat in the mountains north of
Bow River with a comrade, a green man, who did n't
seem to have an eye in his head. The game was above
me, half a mile away, perhaps, and I was moving up
with the utmost circumspection, when to my dismay
I saw my comrade suddenly emerge from the scrub
five hundred feet above the old fellow, and walk carelessly along in full view. I was not surprised that my
friend did not see the goat, for I doubt if he would
have seen an elephant twenty rods in front of him, but
I was surprised that the goat did n't see him, for he 156
was a foxy old chap, and kept his eyes open. And
then it was that I suddenly made a discovery, — a discovery which made goat-stalking easy to me after that,
— which was that a goat never expects danger from
above, but always from below, and that to stalk a
mountain where goats are, successfully, the stalker
should work downward from the top, and not upward
from the base.
I It is just the same with big horn sheep, as they are
called. They should be stalked from above. They
have a wide range, for I have shot them in Southern
California and in the Great Bear Lake region. They
are not confined to the mountains, as is generally supposed. I have found them in flat country, and thick
too. They live in Sonora, in tracts absolutely arid;
at least I never could find any water there. A ram
weighs, when fully grown and well conditioned, about
three hundred and fifty pounds. They grow a very
fine wool in winter, and the females have horns like a
common goat. The old idea that they alight on their
big horns when compelled to jump from a cliff is all
nonsense. It is like the popular belief that prairie
dogs, owls, and rattlesnakes live in one burrow harmoniously. There is no such \ happy family' arrangement among them, I can assure you. The snakes eat
the eggs of the owls, the owls eat the snakes, and the
prairie dogs eat the owl chicks at every opportunity.
A good many men with big-sounding titles would be
much better naturalists if they would become practical
sportsmen and trailers for a few years."
" That's my idea, Mr. Osgood,"  said the Judge, ROCKY  MOUNTAIN   SHEEP.  BIG GAME.
with strong emphasis. " If I had a boy and I wanted
to make a true naturalist of him, I would buy him a
sportsman's outfit and give him to you for five years to
"Well, I could teach him a good many valuable
things, I don't doubt, or any other true sportsman could
who has trailed the continent as widely as I have," Jack
responded. " For he would see not only its physical
geography and its old races, now almost extinct, but all
its vegetable and arboreal growths, and above all learn
how to use his eyes and his ears and his reasoning faculties more sharply and carefully than he could in the
recitation room of a college. Mr. Murray and I were
graduated from Yale, and we remember our Alma Mater
with scholarly gratitude, but the Great University of
Men and Things, as represented by our studentship of
the continent, has given us a more valuable knowledge
7 © ©
than our study of books ever did."
| Never mind that now, Jack," I said ; " you and I
can't graduate from the big Outdoor University until
© © «/
we have saddled across the Mackenzie Basin and boated
down its current a thousand miles, or two thousand, for
that matter."
" I will do that with you any summer," he said.
I Three months will be all the time we need, and from
the day we leave Calgary till our return we shall be in
the best hunting region of the continent — the section
© ©
where big game in abundance and all its varieties, ex-
©   ©
cepting the plain buffalo, can now be found. All
through this area north of us the wapiti, or big elk,
are found plentifully, both among the foot-hills and in 160
the woody clumps and timber which patch the plains of
the country here and there. The wapiti are noble
game, and the stalking of them a most manly recrea-
© 7 O v
tion. As to grizzlies, I never hunt them. I do not
admit that a sportsman has such a motive in his sporting adventures as to justify him in risking his life, as
he must do in stalking for grizzlies. Mr. Murray saw
me run from a grizzly once, and I am confident that he
never saw a man of my inches make better time. I
have killed two, but in both instances I was so placed
that I could n't run, and had to kill or get killed, so I
stood stoutly in for the chances, and won. There are
two animals I never seek, and always shun if I can : the
grizzly bear and the panther. The latter is the king of
the American forest and mountains. He is the only
beast the grizzly fears. The lithe cat is more than
a match for the monstrous bear. The Indians will
tell you that they have found many grizzlies that were
certainly killed by panthers, but no one has ever
seen the body of a panther that was killed by a grizzly
or any other animal. The panther is king of the
" Moose are numerous in the Peace River country,
among the mountains and on the west side of the
mountains. It has been said that no white man can
hunt a moose as well as an Indian. As a rule the saying holds good. To it I have known a few exceptions,
but only a few. The influence of heredity is in the
Indian's favor. His eyesight is a derived faculty. It is
a birthmark. The Indian's eye has ancestors back of
it.    A thousand years of practiced, developed vision THE  GRIZZLY   BEAR.  BIG GAME.
is concentrated, and peers from under his brows. The
aboriginal eye is the best in the world. It is literally
microscopic. In moose-stalking this counts. The
stalker who can stalk without noise, and whose eye is
as good or better than the moose's, gets him every
time.    The eye wins in moose-hunting.
" Antelopes are not game.    They are too pretty to
shoot, and too simple. Their curiosity is so enormous
that it dominates them. It places them entirely at the
mercy of the sportsman, and hence every true sportsman spares the lovely creatures, unless absolutely compelled to kill to appease his hunger. But the big gray
wolf is legitimate game, and the great, gaunt, hulking
brute makes a good target; and his pelt is not to be despised, for when full furred it looks well, and a dozen 164
of them make a warm robe, or overcoat even. These
wolves are everywhere to the north of us, and often
make good sport as you trail onward.
" The reason why the great area north of us is to be
commended to the American sportsman," said Jack in
conclusion, " is because it is the present home of the
bis: game of the  continent, and is  accessible.    The
©      © J
rails bring you to your saddle, and the saddle takes
you to the end of your trail. And after my way of
thinking there is no method of locomotion so healthy,
so stimulating, and so thoroughly enjoyable, as you
have with a good, tough, easy-gaited, well-trained pony
under you, trailing over the great plains. Pushing
down toward the north from Calgary you have the
prairie land to the east and the Rocky-Mountains to
the west in full view; grasses and flowers, running
streams and groves of trees, pure air and lovely camp
grounds; a climate of even temperature, long, lingering twilights and early dawns, and that most delightful
© © J J ©
of all sensations to a trailer, — the feeling that you
are visiting an unknown section without  danger   or
© ©
excessive toil, and in which game is abundant. Even
if you cared nothing for game, and were only seeking
a glorious outing, I can imagine no excursion likely to
yield more health or pleasure to a party of refined and
intelligent lovers of the outdoor world and life than
one pushed down toward the north into the Peace River
country from Calgary, keeping the snowy summits of
the Rocky Mountains in sight on the left as you journey along. Granted a good-sized l prairie schooner,' a
good cook, a good teamster, and a good party, and BIG GAME.
after my way of thinking you have all the conditions
of a good time."
" So say I," cried the Judge, as he rose to his feet
and extracted a small package from his coat pocket,
" and I wish we boys could all start on such a journey tomorrow. But one thing, Colonel Goffe, you could not
do. The court would not allow it; you should never
be permitted to take that old combination musket of
yours along. It is more dangerous than a I sugar
trust,'" and the Judge proceeded to open the package
in his hand, which proved to contain nothing but small
oblong pieces of pasteboard with grotesque pictures
upon them.
" Judge John Doe, what are those things you have
in your hands ? " exclaimed the Colonel, in a severe
voice. " They look to me like a pagan cryptogram, and
if Mr. Ignatius Donnelly gets hold of you " —
" That will do," interrupted the Judge coolly, as he
began to move his fingers up and down over the package in a manner to make the slips of paper come and
go in a strange fashion, " that will do. Colonel Goffe,"
he added as he prepared to sit down on his camp-stool,
" these are cards, sir. This is a poker pack, and in
spite of your innocence I propose that you and I should
have a game " —
" Sit down, Judge," said the Colonel kindly, as he
moved the Judge's stool a little closer to him.
" Thank you, Colonel," replied the Judge, in a mollified voice, evidently touched by the Colonel's courtesy.
11 will sit down," and he did — on the grass ! 166
" You villain! " screamed the Judge, and jumping
to his feet he grabbed the camp-stool and pursued the
Man from New Hampshire around the corner of the
tent, followed by our volleying laughter, while even
the Indians standing around grinned broadly.
Wife Is there not
A tongue in every star, that talks ■with man,
And wooes him to be wise ?    Nor wooes in vain.
This dead of midnight is the noon of thought,
And wisdom mounts her zenith with the stars.
RIDE, — and such a ride as no ancient
ever took, although he were a
a ride upon a steed without feet or
wings, and yet a steed which swept
us through sunlit space and starlit
gloom faster than hoof of speed or
flight of wing. To the south, the prairie land stretched
green and fragrant with summer growth and bloom to
the far southern Gulf. To the north, the same lovely
level swept to the lower edge of the great Mackenzie
basin, — that far river of the north of which few know
but little, and most know nothing. Its length, longer
than the Mississippi's; its climate, although upon the
edge and within the rim of the Arctic circle, still
warmer than Dakota's; its plains, within whose vast 168
boundaries Eastern States and Provinces might be
placed and lost; the growth of its rich soils, barley,
wheat, peas, and all life-feeding vegetables, together
with those hardy flowers which grace our Northern
tables: these and other marvels born of isothermal
lines which, curving hither and yon, laugh at lines of
latitude, — are not these things scoffed at by the
stay-at-homes as myths and idle tales? Why, then,
tell of the great possibilities for healthy men and
happy homes lying far to the north of present settlements ; of millions on millions of acres that only wait
for the plough and the seed, the sower's hand and
the harvester's sickle, to yield the hungry world the
bread it needs, if it will not believe the truth ? Yet
the world will read the poetry of this liar-stretching
land, and, reading it, will by and by come to the knowledge of its economic facts, — perhaps.
To the south, then, the plains stretched to the Gulf ;
to the north, hah0 as far. To the east, the great lawn
extended nigh three hundred leagues. To the west,
in the glory of sunset, its sapphire splendors spread
over the fixed blue of heaven and the floating fleece of
clouds, arose the barrier of a great mountain wall which
reached to the south and north as far as eye might see.
Never in all my journeyings had I seen such a sight.
The foothills, in the distance and gathering gloom,
were flattened out of view, and the green prairie land
spread to the very foot of that majestic wall, as level as
a floor. At the far edge of this extended emerald
field, the monstrous range, its hither side darkened
with firs and evening's gloom, rose in might and ma- K<!RRB9^PRKRS^9SP^!^M^P!^SP!I^^^^SSSf^S9!nin
jesty. It was as if I had come at last to the very ed^e
of the world, which God had fenced and barricaded,
fixing with almighty power the limit of man's wandering and discoveries.
Toward this monstrous barricade, this base of gloom
* ©
that stretched far as the eye might see to the north and
south, we drove in silence. Behind this wall the red
sun slowly sank. I saw its quivering orb of flame rest
on a peak of snow that at its touch kindled to the
brightness of a burning star. On either hand a hundred other peaks flashed like newly lighted beacons.
Is it for warning or for guidance, I queried to myself,
— for the weird sight stirred my imagination unwont-
edly, — that those hundred beacon fires, stretching in
front of me on either hand a hundred miles, are kindled
high in heaven ?
Thus, then, was I hurried onward fast as set wings
might carry me, with my gaze on the peaks, the fading
fire in the sky, and the growing gloom. Slowly the
crimson faded; slowly the sapphire colors lost their
splendors; slowly the orange lights were blanched, and
the warm tones that filled the heavens chilled into
gray, and then in the far distance my eye saw only a
blue sky pointed here and there with starry fire, and
between it and me, sharply edged, cleanly cut, strongly
defined, stood forth domes of snow and pinnacles of
Many sights of splendor have I seen in wandering
by day and night; many pictures such as man's hand
could never paint have I gazed at, both at noontide and
at midnight, when for my entertainment, as it seemed, 172
— for being there alone I only saw, — Nature kindly
shifted her etched or painted scrolls. Many weird
sights have I gazed at floating on northern waters in
© © ©
the night time, when all the woods were silent with lo-
© 7
cal stillness, and round the Pole, by hands unnamed by
science, unknown to superstition even, were lighted the
mystic fires which illuminate with awful and shifting
splendors the end of the world. But never in wandering by day or night, on plain or mountain slope, or
surface of forest lakes, have my eyes beheld a spectacle
so strange and startling, or an exhibition so magnifies o? o
cent, as I saw, gazing westward through the gloom at
7 7    © © © ©
the summits of the Rocky Mountains, with the world
around me darkened into gloaming and the dead sunset lying on the bier of Night beyond. Between the
dark earth and the blue sky, the black flatness and the
star-lighted dome, the whiteness of the peaks drew a fine
of startling effects from north to south, held in mysterious suspension between earth and heaven as far as
eye might range.
Steadily we rolled onward. Behind, the roar and
rumble of the train ; ahead, the stillness of nature's undisturbed repose when man sleeps and animals walk
velvet-footed. The sun had set. The moon had not
risen ; yet it was not dark. A strange half-light filled
the world.    The train I could not see, for I was riding-
J ©
ahead of it. The power that drew it, whose mighty
throbbings I could feel as though within me, pushed
me through the air as an arrow is pushed from the bow.
I was being whirled along as a bird is whirled when
it rides the  tempest.     The dusk was fragrant with
unseen bloom. The earth odors were blown into my
nostrils. I breathed the strong life of the world, and
felt its strength come to me as I breathed.
Suddenly, on my left, I saw a snowy owl sailing
with set wings westward. Was it the ghost of the day
that had just died that had been forced at last to leave
the world it loved so well ? The spectral vision raced
us a race and won, and far ahead I saw its snowy
plumage fade and lose itself in the distance. A flock
of ducks, startled from the sedges of the lake we
skirted, whirred upward out of sight. I thought it
strange that I could hear their feathered stroke so far
away. Above me the great round eye of the headlight
blazed like a sun. A coyote sprang upon the track,
stood for a moment gazing at us, its eyes two diamond
sparks, its dirty gray coat gleaming white and beautiful as silk, then slunk away, and the gloaming hid it
from sight. Suddenly, above us and ahead, a flock
of mighty birds swept into view, — their bodies white,
their legs half the length of a man's, then long, broad,
bills crooked like a spoon, yellow as gold, their wings,
shading  from  their  white  bodies  into raven  black,
© a
stretched wider than a man's hands could reach. They
were pelicans, those mighty birds that float upon the
prairie lakes as large as swans, whose vans beat the air #
with strokes stronger than an eagle's. One such bird
might make a trophy for a hunter more noble than
horns of elk or head of moose. They gave no cry, but
circled like spectres into sight, and like a ghostly visitation disappeared. Thus into the night I glided, holding converse with the night, — a wingless bird myselfy
flying with birds. 174
Those who know Nature only by day know only half
of her, and the least interesting half at that. Nature
has two faces. Both are beautiful, but one is supremely
so. The one is as a human face, glowing, sunlighted,
tanned, scarred, it may be, perfect or imperfect, as the
day is. Her night-time face is as an angel's, the face
of one that has been translated from flesh to spirit, and
by the translation lost its grossness and become ethe-
realized. Its beauty is that beauty which is veiled, which
gains from having its loveliness suggested rather than
© © ©O
revealed. The nude is always unsatisfactory, for loveliness is ever a thing of suggestion rather than revela-
tion. He who sees all plainly sees too much. As sight
would rob religion of the glory of faith, so it robs
loveliness of the benefits of imagination.
One may tire of Nature by day, — the sun makes
her common. When morning has fully come, we may
go within-doors and eat; we may go to our toil; we
may strike our tents and move on, weary of the dusty
road. For not until the glare is passed and the hot
sun dimmed by coming shadows and cooled by falling
dew, need we halt on the march or come forth from
our doors to look about us. Verily to the lover of
Nature, whether on plain or amid hills, or shore of sea,
the night is the time to wake. Then should eyes be
opened as stars and orbed for vision, as is the moon
when it rolls in rounded perfection through the lighted
And oh, the voices of the night! The day is tuneless. Man monopolizes it with his noises; with the
murmurs of his trade, the roar and rumble of his com-
merce; with the strident calls of his shoutings, his cursing, and his turbulence. But with the night comes
that silence which is vocal.    Then Nature sings.    Her
tunefulness is heard abroad, and her soft melodies come
sweetly to listening ears. The sod finds speech; the
brook murmurs to the banks; the trees whisper and
call in sylvan concert; and through all the fields a
thousand tongues, unknown among the languages of
men, break forth in sweet expression.
To many I know that what I write will be a mystery,
or only as the joining of meaningless words, but to
others it will come freighted with soberness and truth.
For they, as well as I, have camped upon the shores
of lakes amid the circling woods; have stood alone
at night on boundless prairies, and thrown themselves
down amid the grasses and flowers, unable to sleep because of the glory that was above them, the odors that
they breathed, and the sweet sounds which came to
their charmed ears from nigh or far. And others yet
have stood upon the top of mountains when the sun
went down, and with gladness seen the shadows darken
and the stars come out, watching for them as for loved
faces not seen for years, and have sat on the bare rocks,
hour after hour, and watched them draw their golden
circles through the blue above, and in the silence heard
all the tones of memory and the prophecies of hope.
And when at last they slept they found the granite
softer than a downy bed shut in with walls and doors.
These, reading, know what I mean, and that I say the
truth and lie not when I say that he who has seen Nature only by day has seen only the lesser half of her, 176
and in one sense, and a true one too, has not seen her
at all.
Still    on- I'p^ipijjj <****«&
war d w e
drove. Here
and there
the grade
sloped downward, and ]
then the i
mighty train
flew  like   a j
meteor.     It
was not rid-
in g ;     we
were being projected
into space, we were
being  shot through
© ©
the air. The atmosphere was cool, dewy, fragrant. In the declensions of
the prairie, fields of white fog
enveloped the track. Into and
through these soft layers of fleece our faces da
Out of them they rose as from a bath of spray
ping with perfumed water. How delicious the sense
of fife became ! There was not a slow vein in us.
We flowed full to the brim with vitality. The consciousness of happy, buoyant fife was in us as never
before. The wild forces of the world were round us,
and we were of them. We were of the atoms of the
universe, of which each atom is superlatively vital.
We were all alive. We throbbed and panted on the
rising grades bike the engine. Down the long declen-
sions we reeled and rollicked like a frolicsome meteor.
We whirled along through the gloom Like the birds of
o © ©
night which we startled from the sedges.    We rolled
© O
billowing onward like the great herds of cattle which
our shrieking flight stampeded. We thundered around
the bends of the river furiously, and the snorting horses
in mighty bands burst wildly away from the blaze of
our headlight as we dashed into the ranches, heads
tossing from side to side, eyes blazing like diamonds,
manes and tails streaming their pomp and pride of
flowing hair afar.
Thus through the short summer night we rode or
flew. Twice the monster that bore us so steadily and
swiftly stopped at water and stood panting. Around
it crowded a mob of wild - looking creatures, — the
Indians of the plains; Blackf eet, who rank with the
Sioux for courage; Crees, whose kindred wigwams
stretched to the coast of Labrador; the Assinniboins
or " Stonies," whose tongue connects them dimly with
the tribes which trap upon the shores of far Mistas-
sinni ; these and the scattered remnants of other tribes
thronged around,   wrapped  within  blankets,   silently 178
gazing at us as we sat upon the engine.     >\    viiu.
A wild*
looking set of beings no man ever saw. Their long,
coarse, raven-black hair hung low upon their bosoms
and shoulders. The wind at times blew the black
tangle of it over their faces. These were painted with
red and yellow ochres, which heightened indescribably
their wild, fierce aspect. Their blankets were of high
colors, some of a solid red, some red with black stripes,
while others were checkered in blazing squares. The
plumes of eagle, raven, and pelican were knotted in
their coarse locks. They said nothing. They asked
no alms. The brakemen, oilers, and wheel-testers flashed
their lanterns into their faces, and joked them pleasantly. They made no answer and they never stirred.
What were their thoughts ?  I will stir them up, I said.
I stepped to the side of an old chief, — a tall,
wrinkled, and withered Blackfoot, — and said, 1 Chief,
are you thinking that this prairie land was the land
of your fathers for a thousand years ? that their bones
are under its flowers to-night, and that their spirits are
hunting the deer and the buffalo this minute on the
mighty sand-hills there to the east ? that this fiery
monster I am riding is the Evil Power that has banished your game, robbed you of your hunting-grounds,
and destroyed the strength and glory of your race ?
Do you not hate it and us who manage and use it ? "
He listened with his gaze full on me. I knew by the
flash that came into the black eyes that he understood,
but his face gave no sign and he spake not a word.
But I had told him the truth, and he knew it.
The Indians you meet on the line of this Canadian SAPOMAXICOW, OR   CROWFOOT,
Chief of the Black Feet Indians.  If
road are finer specimens of the red race than those met
with on the lines that run through the States. The
early French treated the Indians with humanity, the
English with barbarity. The Hudson's Bay Company's
commercial instincts prompted wisdom, — the wisdom
of justice and mercy; and so its factors and agents
continued on in the line of humane French precedence.
The Canadian government naturally fell heir to this
policy of wisdom, and in the main has striven honestly
to live up to it. The beneficial effect of this treatment
is apparent to the most casual observer. The Indians
of the Canadian west and northwest are not like the
debauched and degraded vagabonds we find hanging
around the stations of our Western railroads. They
are well-clothed, cleanly, healthy-looking, and in many
cases fine specimens of the red race. The women are
well dressed and of decent appearance. The boys look
vigorous and the girls healthy, and not a few of them
handsome. They look as if they were still capable of
taking care of themselves, still had a right to live, and
a place reserved for them by the bond of honorable
engagement in the land of their fathers.    Instead of
©    ©
being a painful spectacle to the Continental tourist, the
Indians of the plains between Winnipeg and the Rocky
Mountains, a stretch of nearly a thousand miles, are
objects of interest and pleasant surprise.
At last we noticed a change in the air ahead of us.
The darkness began to change to gray. The stars
above us shone with shorter beams. A pale fight
spread over the vast plain. A flock of geese wedged
their way laboriously northward  through  the  ashen 182
doom.    To the left, in the bend of Bow River, a herd
of cattle stood in the fog, their heads and backs showing above the white fleece, their bodies invisible — a
strange effect. The old, old fight, older than the
world, was being waged around us, — the fight of light
with darkness. The attack and defence were equally
stubborn. There were no charges, no sudden dashes,
no quick recoil or recoveries of position. The movements were vast, slow-motioned, immense. The stars
from pole to pole telegraphed the result. The horizon
line of the whole world showed us, as we gazed, the
victory and the defeat. Suddenly, high in heaven, the
summits of the mountains, an endless line, shone pearly
white. Below the gleaming spires their monstrous
bulks were black as night. It was a sight to see with
lifted hands. Then all the world grew rosy. The low-
lying fog fields crimsoned. The foothills sprang into
view. The clouds blushed. The sun without warning
had kissed them. The icy peaks flashed white Like
electric lights. The sun leaped from the far eastern
grasses, and Morning, with a rush of glorious color on
her face, took vivid possession of the world. And thus,
with faces wet with dew, our nostrils filled with forest
odors, our eyes bright as the eyes of those who had
discovered a new world, we dashed into the amphitheatre of the everlasting hills, and stopped at last, our
glorious ride ended, and stood, in the red light of the
morning, gazing bewildered, astonished, at that marvellous expression of Nature's beauty and majesty-
known to the tourist of this western world as Banff. CHAPTER X.
; There was a sound of revelry hy night."
N the northeast side of Scotland, if you
will look at your maps, gentlemen,"
said the Judge, " you will find this
name of Banff. To tell you the
story of its transplanting would be to
give you the history of a life, — a life
which began there, and being removed here developed
into one of the strongest personalities of the continent.
The once poor boy at Banff has since become one of
the chief forces of this western world. No higher
compliment could be paid him than to give this mag- 184
nificent location the name of his birthplace. But no
one who knows the modesty and greatness of the man,
and the services he has done this country, will say that
the compliment is excessive."
I There is no reward too great," exclaimed Mr. Pepperell, I there is no reward too great for a man whose
faith and courage have opened up such a country as
this to civilization. Such a man has enlarged the
opportunity of human effort, and made happy and
prosperous homes possible to millions."
We were standing at the celebrated Sulphur Spring
at the time, one of the many natural curiosities which
make this location famous. There were only four of
us left, — the Judge, Mr. Pepperell, the Man from New
Hampshire, and myself. We were all old travellers,
and saw that in Banff alone we had a good week's
entertainment, without going beyond it a rod.
" This water smells bad enough to cure a man, that
© 7
is, if he was very sick," said the New Hampshire man
quietly, as he lifted a cup of the heavily-tinctured water
to his nose.
"I know a man who left his lameness in that
spring," said the Judge, reflectively.
" It may be that is what I smell," added the Man
from New Hampshire, laconically.
By this time we had passed through the tunnel that
has been bored into the ledge, in the centre of which
Nature had hollowed that strange cavern from whose
bottom boil the waters of healing.
I At that time," continued the Judge, ignoring as
not worthy his attention the facetious remark of our
IWJ*,UI 1-iUW!!* T
companion, " at that time, this passage had not been
excavated, and the only way to reach this curative pool
was to be lowered by a rope through that aperture, up
there," and he pointed to the hole at the centre of the
cavern's dome,  some  two feet in diameter,  through
J 7 ©
which we could see the sky, and which originally gave
vent to the heated atmosphere of the warm spring
" They say," said Mr. Pepperell, " that the Indians
used to bring their sick to this mountain side, and lower
© 7
them through that hole into the warm sulphurous water ; and they declare that not a single man ever spent
a day and a night in this cavern that was n't lifted out
" It would n't have taken a day and a night to have
cured me," said the Man from New Hampshire, as he
stopped his nose and started for the tunnel. " Any
man would be a fool not to swear he was cured after
being ten minutes in this oven ; for before this passage
was cut, which gives its chimney a draft, it must have
been close, mighty close, in here ! "
" It does n't smell like a rose," laughingly returned
the Judge, as he shuffled on after us, " but a man will
stand sulphur pretty strong to get rid of rheumatism."
" They say that this whole mountain has a substratum of sulphur," remarked Mr. Pepperell, after he
had taken two or three whiffs of pure air, beyond the
mouth of the passage.
" The Indians are poor theologians," said the Man
from New Hampshire. "They located their hell at
the Glacier ; they should have brought it this side of
the range." 186
11 have always thought it strange," remarked the
" that a man with the knowledge of Milton
should have connected sulphur with the punitive suffering of the race, when, in fact, it is one of the most
potent of all curative principles."
" Perfectly adapted for Purgatory," quietly remarked
the Man from New Hampshire.
I presume that four men never enjoyed a happier
week than we spent at Banff. We rolled leisurely
over the fine roads that the government had constructed, winding in and out along the bends of the Bow
River, running along the base of the gigantic moun-
7 © © ©   ©
tains and through the cool forests of the firs. We
explored, with the curiosity and eagerness of boys, the
secluded places, and followed the dim by-paths, not
knowing or caring whither they led us, happy, whether
they conducted us to some noble prospect or terminated suddenly at some dripping ledge. We searched
for curious minerals in the sides of the mountains,
translated the geological records of the cliffs, and col-
O © 7
lected polished pebbles from the bed of the foaming
Spray. We slept at noonday under the pines, lulled
to sleep by the Falls of the Bow, and fished, not in
vain, for its noted trout in the rapids. We watched
the storm clouds vainly assault the monstrous mountains, that lifted their heads majestically above the
reach of storms ; listened to the thunder as it Jbellowed
in the gorges and rumbled down the ravines; saw the
rainbows grow, and shrink their arches of splendor,,
and fade away ; and, at evening, sat in the great angle
of the veranda which overlooked the Falls five hundred
nnpw«i"W«rpm P   BANFF.
feet below us, and saw the round moon roll up above the
Fairholme range, and whiten the valley of the Bow with
its silvery fight. We admired the ample design of the
commodious house, — a veritable palace, with interior
finish of native woods polished to a gleam ; its wide
stairways and galleries; the noble dining-room, with its
lofty ceiling, which tho Judge pronounced " fit to be
a banquet-hall for the gods ; " and the large verandas
that encircled the entire house, as if to invite the guest
to enjoy, to their fill, the majestic scenery which stood
grouped around it.
" Here," exclaimed Mr. Bonneville, " here, is a continental enterprise of which, as a continental man, I am
proud. A year ago and what was there here ? A
forest, a solitude. And out of that forest and solitude, at the touch of courageous enterprise, this noble
structure has risen with all its appurtenances of comfort and luxury, as in the mind of the dreamer a vision
arises in the darkness of  night."
" The only vision," said the Man from New Hampshire, " that while it delights the eye, ever fully satisfied the stomach."
" The climax of civilization," remarked the Judge
contentedly, as he accepted a cigar from Mr. Pepperell's
case. " A perfect climax of civilization. The dessert
at dinner to-day made me profoundly grateful that I
was not born a barbarian."
" Had you been, you would have civilized the tribe
and imported a French chef, Judge," retorted the New
Hampshire man laughingly.
At the appointed day the scattered members of the 190
party kept their rendezvous at the hotel. The house
swarmed with guests. A cosmopolitan company in
truth. The continent in its every section, almost, was
represented. The nations of Europe and the islands
of the seas were there. The flags of old England, of
France, and of the Great Republic were fraternally intertwined. Science and art, poetry and letters, music,
beauty, and wit were joined in bright companionship.
A programme for the evening's entertainment had been
prepared and the Judge appointed master of ceremonies. The stars lighted the world outside, and within
the electric globes flooded the house with their white
" Ladies and gentlemen," began the Judge, " this is
not, I will honestly confess, my maiden speech, and yet
I find myself affected as if it were. I am embarrassed,
not at the courtesy of your suffrage, but at the novelty of my position. A citizen of the Golden Gate, I
find myself in the Dominion of the Queen, surrounded
by an audience representing almost every section of
that Empire on which the sun never sets, every State
and Territory of the Great Republic, and almost every
civilized nation on the face of the earth. We, the
citizens of the Republic, moved by love of country and
of institutions which are precious to every lover of
liberty wherever he is found, wish to hold a social reunion. With that modesty for which we Americans
are noted the world around, we proceeded promptly to
appropriate this hotel and "all the resources for entertainment in the establishment, including yourselves,
surreptitiously inveigled under the name of guests, that   BANFF.
your elegance, your wit, and your beauty might add
e"clat to the occasion. This piratical proceeding we proceeded to legalize by a process invented by us Yankees
known as the ' Town Meeting;' a process which has
been wittily described as enabling the original New
Englander to steal his lands from the Indians, become
a, rebel to his king, and change the commandments
without doing violence to his conscience. At this meeting of my fellow-countrymen I was elected master of
ceremonies, a dignity which I did not obtain, according to a quaint national custom prevalent among us,
without being openly charged by my competitors with
having reached the lofty elevation by a scandalous
stuffing of the ballot-box. Here amid these everlasting hills, in this palace of modern luxury, with the
flags of all nations intertwined, emblematic of that
peace which not only now prevails in the Republic and
its relations, but through the Empire of the English-
speaking race, and with an audience more truly cosmopolitan than I have ever seen outside of the official
halls of government, we hold our happy reunion. We
Americans are not formal. We are not exclusive.
The liberties of refinement will rule the evening. Literature will be honored. Music will be applauded.
Beauty will be admired, genius receive its acclaim, the
banquet table be spread, and then Terpsichore shall
dance to the music of the hours, till the flush of morning shall turn the icy pinnacles of the mountains above
us to the color of the rose."
There was just that Fourth of July swing to the
eloquence of the Judge, that rhetorical abandon, which 194
suited exactly the mood of his fellow-countrymen, and :
we all cheered him as none of us have ever been
cheered since our Class Day oration, when we electrified our sisters, our cousins, and our aunts with the
flights of our eloquence. We all cheered him immensely. The Man from New Hampshire, who had
been a self-nominated rival to the Judge in his struggle for the chairmanship, prolonged his applause as
if, like a true American when defeated, he would
triumph over his hated rival by the exhibition of his
" Ladies and gentlemen," resumed the Judge, when
the Man from New Hampshire had subsided, feeling
that he was the true victor, " ladies and gentlemen,
I will first present to you Professor Blankton, of the
Continental College, an Institution not yet erected,
but which nevertheless stands completed to the eye
of faith, on the subscription paper — not largely subscribed to as yet — which he carries in his pocket.
Professor Blankton will give us a recitation of an
original composition prepared expressly for this occasion, called The Two Flags."
" That you may understand, ladies and gentlemen,"
began the Professor, as with a graceful bow he acknowledged the generous reception we gave him, " that
you may understand the location and natural surroundings of this little episode of American-Canadian life,
which I am to render, I will briefly describe them to
I Below the Fraser Canon,' the savage sublimity of
which cannot perhaps be equaled on the continent, the BANFF.
Fraser curves to the right, and sends its deep, strong,
down-rushing current with a sullen roar against the
° ©
base of a mountain. And he who stands in the curve
below Yale, and looks up that wide reach of water
to where it rushes out of the gloomy pass, from between walls of rocks which rise six thousand feet above
it, sees as grand a spectacle and as sublime a vision of
river and mountain as he may find on the continent.
Opposite this curve, on which you will imagine yourself standing, stretches a plain, acres in extent, lying
enclosed in the curve of the great stream, under the
rounded banks of which, when the water is lowest in
summer, stretches a bar of brown sand. From that bar
a crowd of Americans, who had broken through the
vast mountains from California, in 1868, took in a few
days more than a million of dollars of granulated gold.
From this fact it received the name of American Bar,
a name which it retains to this day. On the plain
above the bar, directly in front of the monstrous mouth
of the Fraser Canon, were camped more than six hundred of our fellow-countrymen.
" It is doubtful, ladies and gentlemen, if. a rougher,
braver, more reckless crowd were ever seen-in British
Columbia. They represented the frontier of our
country; that frontier which stands for exploration, mad
ventures, audacious enterprises, personal courage, coarse
bravado, manhood wrecked, recklessness of life, and
generous impulses. In it, every State and Territory of
the Union had its spokesman. The dialect, the personal characteristics, the humor, even the profanity of
each section was represented by its true type.    Many 196
were old forty-niners, men who had crossed the plains
on foot, rifle in hand, when the East went wild at the
news that gold could be had for the digging beyond
the Nevadas. Youth and age and middle life .were
there. Ex-army men, Blue and Gray, Reb and Yank,
worked as partners, and starved, feasted, or gambled together as luck smiled or frowned. Some signed their
name with that sign which stands with equal facility
for piety or ignorance ; and others in the hush of
evening sang the songs of their Alma Mater to the
© © ©
listening pines and silent stars. Many were ignorant
of any grammar, and others might have served as
Queen's Messengers, not only in European but in Asiatic courts. Many were scarred with wounds received
in battle or private fights. All were armed, and
ate and slept with a pistol at their hips. And while
they gambled or bet heavily when in money or liquor,
nevertheless drunkenness was exceptional and fights
uncommon. A crude but effectively administered justice guarded property and life. Thieving was unknown
at American Bar. ' It does n't pay,' said Light-fingered Dick to his partner, who had learned a useful
trade under the direction of his native State: {it
does n't pay in a community so damned ignorant that
the court has only one classification for crimes and inflicts but one penalty.' Still it cannot be said that
this crowd of gold-seekers were precisely the kind of
men one would select for church-membership, and certainly more reckless dare-deviltry was camped that summer at American Bar than could be easily grouped in
any other spot on the face of the earth.    You now   BANFF.
have the knowledge of the location and characteristics
of the occurrence, and I will proceed to give you the
story of —
1 Let these two flags go on like twin
Stars in equal courses moving.''
" It was the Fourth of July. The sun stood equidistant between the monstrous cliffs that made the walls
of the Black Canon, pouring its rays straight downward
upon the foam-whitened surface of the racing water.
On the plain in the elbow of the river stood the camp,
and on the bush-cabins and old, soiled tents the rays
fell brightly and hot; all the hotter they seemed to the
revelers on the sand, because above and around them,
as they looked through the heated air, they could see
the cold gleam of glaciers and the glint of ice against
© © © ©
the blue sky. The camp was in holiday mood ; not a
man was at work at the Bar. To have lifted pick or
pan would have started Judge Lynch that day. They
had struck luck at the Bar and their mood was exuberant. Some were pitching quoits, using small bags of
gold dust for their quoits, each caster risking the bag
that he cast; others were engaged in pistol practice,
the bull's-eye being a gold eagle at fifty yards. The
bullet that hit won the eagle.    Some were whirling
© o
knives at bank notes. In every tent poker was being
played with a recklessness that would frighten a railroad magnate. Two men were pronouncing an oration
on Liberty at either end of the camp, while a scholarly
looking man, considerably exhilarated with something 200
stronger than the inspiration of the poet, was vainly
endeavoring to pronounce the measures of a patriotic
ode he had composed to a throng of uproarious auditors.
I Suddenly at the mountain end of the central street,
a throng of men appeared, bearing on their shoulders a
flag-staff with the halyards all rigged. At their head
marched Hoosier Jack, who was | loaded with lead ' at
Shiloh, carrying a staff from which waved a yard of
bunting, with its thirteen stars all faded and the glorious stripes sadly bleached, frayed at the edges, if the
truth must be told, and | damnably out of repairs,' as
Bangor Harry asserted; but symbolic still of liberty to
man, and of the great country which stands for that
liberty the world over. Ahead of it marched the
band, composed of a little snare drum, two fifes, and
five fiddles, playing Yankee Doodle with a celerity of
movement and an earnestness of expression which
more than compensated for the artistic deficiencies of
the performance.
" But, oh ! the cheers and the yells that greeted that
little cheap flag as it came down the street! The
emptying of tents, the rushing of the gamblers; the
pell-mell that ensued ! In the rear of those bearing the
flag-staff the procession was formed, and twice through
the camp the cheap, faded banner was carried, and then
in the centre the flag-pole was set, the bunting knotted to the halyards, and up went the Stars and Stripes,
while every head was uncovered and the eyes of many
grew dim as they gazed. And as the flag went up and
the breeze shook it out and the sunshine brightened BANFF.
the faded stars and bleached stripes, a cheer, hoarse
and strong, stormed upward like the roar of a tempest,
startling the goats on the crag and the fish-hawks at
the mouth of the Canon, and Bangor Harry, climbing
to the top of some cracker-boxes with his six shooter
for his baton, constituted himself leader of the music
of the occasion, and in his clear tenor voice, resonant
as a bugler's call at sunrise, began, —
' Yes, we '11 rally round the flag, boys,
We '11 rally once again,
Shouting the battle-cry of Freedom;
We "11 rally from the hillside,
We '11 gather from the plain,
Shouting the battle-cry of Freedom.
Chorus : The Union forever!
Hurrah !   boys, hurrah!
Down with the traitor, up with the star,
While we rally round the flag, boys,
Rally once again,
Shouting; the battle-cry of Freedom.'
I Whether it was the exhilaration of the occasion, the
swing and sweep of the verse, or the thrill of pride
that the symbol above their heads was theirs once
more, or the magical memories of the old days before
the war, we cannot say, but we simply record the fact
that when the singer had reached the chorus, and the
great crowd of rough, bronzed, strong men took up the
refrain, Arkansas Reb and Mississippi Pete, who had
' bored the old flag' in twenty battles, joined in as
vigorously as if they had been born under the slope of
Bunker Hill. 202
i The song closed in a roar of sound which might
not be designated by Thomas or Zerrahn as music, but
which fully answered the demands of the occasion,
and at a word from Bangor Harry, every revolver
left its owner's hip, and six hundred polished muzzles
gleamed in the sun. Six volleys followed the signal of
the leader with a precision which demonstrated that
they were more practiced in the use of the " iron |
than in the  chromatic scale.
11 You fellows,' said Bangor Harry, as he crawled
carefully down from the top of his cracker-boxes,
'you fellows ain't much at singing, but you have all
got the classical touch on the trigger.'
" It was in fact an exuberant and exciting crowd, a
crowd which the least touch would have exploded for
fun, patriotism, or deviltry. And it was at this unfortunate juncture — unfortunate for him — that out
of his bush shanty crawled Bloody Edwards, a big,
aggressive, red-faced London cockney, who had come
through the mountains with the crowd from no imaginable reason save sheer accident, and still remained
with them because of tolerance on their part and excessive indolence on his; for there certainly was nothing
in common between this lofty-acting, boastful cockney
from London and the free and easy, reckless men
among whom he was staying. A more boastful, swaggering braggart never breathed. The most offensive
Briton was in him typed most offensively. His favorite superlative was ' bloody!' It answered even the
purpose of his loyalty, which was so excessive as to
tax language to express, and gave him his name. BANFF.
" At the very moment when the vast crowd was fairly
boiling over with excitement and ready for any mischief,
came Bloody Edwards upon the scene, swaggering offensively and waving a small, red, British flag in his
hand. Planting himself in the centre of the street in
front of the six hundred exhilarated Americans, he
waved the little banner flauntingly over his head, and
howled —
11 Urrah for the Flag of Hold Hingland!'
" For an instant the crowd never moved; each man
stood silently in his tracks, and then with a roar
came the rush. It struck Bloody Edwards like a land
slide, and swept him, as if he were a bit of debris, to
the bank of the river. Then out of the roar lanced
a voice, ' Naturalize him ! naturalize him ! Make a
Yankee out of the cockney !' and six hundred voices
took up the cry — for the humor of the idea pleased
them — | Aye, aye ! Naturalize him; he shall take
the oath of allegiance. Make him swear by the Stars
and Stripes !'
I But the cockney refused to become a Yankee;
refused point blank, and garnished his refusal by expletives known only to the slums of London.
I \ Curse the cockney,' exclaimed Cambridge Jack,
I the fool acts as if he had a choice in the matter;'
and then he screamed, ' Dip him! Dip him! Cool him
down in the Fraser! He shall swear by the Stars and
Stripes, or drown !' And the crowd took up the
words of Cambridge Jack, for the cockney had no
friends; he had not acted to make any, and surely
no flag up to this time had ever had a less manly repre- 204
sentative than the banner of England had found in the
person of this boasting, swaggering, insolent cockney,
Bloody Edwards. And so the crowd took up the cry
of Cambridge Jack, prompted thereto by the sense of
humor and the dislike of the cockney, and yelled,
■ Into the Fraser with him ! Cool him down ! Teach
him manners! He shall swear by the Stars and Stripes,
or drown !' And then the crowd gave one surge, and
upward the cockney was swung, and down to the river
they rushed him, and into the depth of the cold, icy
river, that river that never was warm and never will
warm until the elements melt, they plunged him.
" But underneath and within the punk of his cock-
neyism, untouched by the rot of the surface, was a
sound streak of old English oak. For as the big, red
face came out of the ice-cold tide, he blew like a porpoise and yelled again, —
" < Urrah for the flag of Hold Hingland !'
" i Down with him! Down with him again !' yelled
the crowd to Blarney Pat and Confederate Dick who
had him in hand. And downward they plunged him ;
down into the coldness of death, that glacial cold in
that river of glaciers which chills and whitens quick
and sure for the grave. Downward they sent him and
again, as he came to the surface, he feebly sputtered, —
I < Urrah — for — the — flag — of — Hold — Hin
— gland !'
" By this time it was evident that Bloody Edwards
was sober, sober as a man who from birthday had never
touched ale, and that it was not the reckless bravado born of liquor, but the bull-dog grit which made BANFF.
Poictiers, Cressy, and Waterloo what they stand for,
which held him to the fine whose ghastly white men
dread, so stiffly — the indomitable English grit that
was in him.
i And this it was which won on the crowd and even
on the two men who had twice plunged him into that
death-cold current, that current which never yet gave
back to light of day a body that once touched its bottom. For Confederate Dick, as he looked into the
big, red English face that now lay drooping weakly on
the bull-like neck, exclaimed in sheer disgust, —
" ' Curse the English fool, he won't give in !'   Then
O 7 o
up spoke Bangor Harry, as he thrust himself to the
front of the surging crowd.
" ' Boys, the darned fool is of the same blood with
us if he is beefy built; for his grit proves it. The
red flag he 'd die for owned the continent before the
Stars and Stripes split it. And the two own the continent still betwixt them, and shall own it forever, by
Heaven ! Three cheers for the red flag of England,
the old mother-land of us all.' And suddenly out of the
throats of the six hundred men who had swarmed over
the border searching for gold, above whose heads
floated the little, cheap fifteen by twenty bunting with
its stars bleached and its stripes all faded, there burst
as hearty a cheer for the cross of St. George as ever
English gunners sent from bloody English decks when
O & JO
through the smoke they saw their foeman's flag come
floating down.
" Then out of the water they lifted the cockney, they
rolled him and rubbed him, and twenty flasks were 206
tossed through the air to the men who had him in
hand. Then they took the flag, — Cambridge Jack
was the man, — and bent it to the halyards, side by side
with the Stars and Stripes, and they hoisted the two
with loud cheers.
"' Divil take the rag!' said Blarney Pat as he
pulled lustily away at the halyards. ' Divil take the
rag, but the b'y that won Waterloo was born nigh
Killarney !'
" But this was not all, for a strange thing happened,
strange enough at any time, but doubly so happening
at that very moment. Scarcely had the cheering died
than along the river's farther bank there came a circling wind, marking its progress with dust, dead leaves,
and withered grasses, which at its touch sprang upward
into air. Across the rushing river, across the Bar, it
ran its circling course, jumped the dry bank and rushed
across the bend, and in its career struck full and fair
the staff from which the kindred banners waved; out
of their fastenings tore them, and, twined together,
blent as one, sent them soaring upward through the
sunshine toward the blue sky and the white summits
of the Canon, eight thousand feet above the throng of
swarthy, scarred, and startled faces gazing at them.
" Thus in silence stood the camp. Not a sound was
heard save the rush of water as it whirled around the
Bar or fretted along the shifting edges of the golden
© © © ©
beach below. Spellbound and marveling at such strange
hap, their jests all checked, their rude talk silenced,
they stood at gaze, their eyes fixed on the flags as they
went up and onward, lifted higher and higher into the BANFF.
blue. Still upward and onward they soared; and not
until they were to the eye but a fleck of color, not
until that fleck of color had touched the level of the
icy peaks and the summit line of snow, not until the
winds which pour forever over them had caught the
flags and they were about to disappear, borne on by
winds which flow forever round the world, was that
solemn silence broken.    But as the blended flags, now
©   7
but a speck of color, were about to fade forever from
their gazing eyes, the voice of Bangor Harry rose
strong and clear, with the genuine Yankee nasal struck
clean through the words : —
11 I 'II be darned if God Almighty has n't joined
them two flags together ! ' "
The Man from New Hampshire was mightily stirred
by the recitation, and when he lifted himself from his
chair, and standing erect, swung his white beaver over
his head and cried, " Hurrah for the flag of Old England, the mother-land of us all! the great veranda
trembled to the roar of the applause which burst from
the laughing, cheering throng.
" Music arose with its voluptuous swell.
Soft eyes looked love to eyes that spake again,
And all went merry as a marriage bell."
The long, wide piazzas made such an ideal ball-room as
is seldom seen
I When youth and pleasure meet
To chase the slowing hours with flying feet," 208
for above them the blue star-fretted heaven was for a
roof, and the free, odor-filled breeze of the mountains
gave to the waltzers such air as eagles breathe.    Be-
© o
neath their feet the polished floor, under the electric fights, shone like ground of glass; upon the hills
and.into the valley the moon poured its soft light,
while to the music of the band the Falls far below
added its steady roar — a heavy monotone of power
softened by distance. Into the solemn solitude of nature, into the undisturbed silence of ages, within the
enclosure of mountains old as the world, whose summits were white with snow that fell in the morning of
Time and had never melted, man — the social man —
had burst, erected his palace, spread a table of banquet,
and summoned music and pleasure to the feast. The
strength and grace of form, the gleam of silks, the flow
of soft-toned draperies, the flash of gems, the loveliness
of snowy necks and arms, the glowing cheek, the
laughing lip, the buzz of happy talk, the harmonies of
music — all were here, making a rare, sweet, bright
picture of human happiness. So passed the hours
until the dawn gave rosy signal for retiring and the
first I American Night" at Banff ended, as it should,
in a lovely morning. ON   THE  TOTE   ROAD.  CHAPTER XL
' Hills piled on hills, on mountains mountains lie."
ROM the Gap, but a little way beyond
the beautiful Kananaskis Falls, to Yale
at the outlet of the celebrated Fraser
Canon is nearly five hundred miles, and
it is a very moderate statement to say
that nowhere else on this continent or
in Europe can the tourist see from his parlor car such
a magnificent exhibition of mountain scenery. Here
is a section of the transcontinental journey in respect
to which the traveler can experience no disappointment. It is not only that he is constantly running
along the base of mountains of gigantic size and im-
© ©   ©
mense altitude by which he is stimulated and impressed,
but  these  mountains are of  every shape and  color, 212
present themselves to the eye in an infinite variety of
appearance, and are individualized by strong, novel,
and imposing characteristics. Here stands one of such
immense bulk and height, holding such a relation to
the line of travel, that it dominates the landscape and
fills the gazer's horizon from edge to edge. Passing
this monstrous obstruction to the vision, the eye suddenly beholds a range pinnacled with eternal snow and
flashing crests of ice, whose brilliancy is the reflection
of ages. Anon, he is whirled around a curve, on a
track so cut into the beetling cliffs that at a distance it
looks like a dark thread spun in the air and drifted by
the wind against the perpendicular wall, and lo, he is
in the midst of a hundred mountains, tumbled promiscuously together, a vast jumble of chaotic misplacement. At one moment he is rolling swiftly down a
valley, as green with springing verdure, as odorous
with flowers, as peaceful and lonely, as the Happy
Valley of Rasselas; above it the bluest of skies and
the brightest of suns, with a flashing river running
with musical rippfings through its centre ; and at the
next, the train is groping its way along a narrow gorge
cut sheer through a mountain range at the level of its
base, with the black, rocky sides rising abruptly thousands of feet on either hand, a river of vast volume,
outracing the train at his side, here running in white
flights, there whirling in dark pools, while all the black
air is filled with its hoarse complaining and explosions
of thunderous rage. Now it is a lonely lake, with its
beaches and its sedges, its islands and its reflections of
sky and cloud and mountain, and its signs of swim- NAMELESS MOUNTAINS.
ming, flying life, which charms him; anon he gazes
entranced, amazed, breathless, at a glacier hanging in
© ©       ©
white, green, flashing loveliness, ten thousand feet
above him, or looks with awe upon a valley between
two ranges filled for miles and miles with snow to the
very peaks, as he remembers that the human race is not
so old as that thawless field before him. Such another
five hundred miles of traveling is not to be had on the
face of the earth. If this strikes the reader as an exaggeration, as it may many — I can only say that it is
not. It is a simple statement of an extraordinary fact
— a statement which every traveler whose knowledge
of the globe is adequate for comparison, who has been
over these five hundred miles, will confirm. He who
journeys from Kananaskis Falls to Fraser Canon will
experience sensations — however blase with worldwide travel he may be — against which his indurated
nerves are not proof.
We four — the Inseparables, as the Man from New
Hampshire facetiously called us — left Banff with
bright anticipations. Our eyes were as open to see and
our spirits as buoyant as if we were boys. We had
had a week of pleasure at the " Palace of Delight," as
the Judge poetically named the huge hostelry among
the mountains, and our last night had been one of rollicking enjoyment. In our dispositions we typed the
best habit of Americans when traveling — the habit
of self-surrender to the enjoyment of the hour. There
can be no question on one point concerning our countrymen. They are the best travelers in the world,
not because they travel the most and spend money the 214
freest when journeying, but because they get more
knowledge and happiness out of travel than any other
people. The inconveniences and deprivations which
roughen the temper of the average Englishman only
quicken the humor of the Yankee and supply him with
entertainment. He travels as a bird flies, utilizing to
his enjoyment the opposition of adverse currents, feeds
contentedly on the wing, and sleeps restfully on any
perch to which the flaws or whirlwinds of unlucky happenings by day or night have gustily blown him.
The world likes him and he likes the world, and hence
he finds welcome everywhere, and the welcome he gets
he thoroughly enjoys. Like a snail, he carries his
home around with him on his back, and easily adjusts
himself to any condition of shine or shade. The happiest mortal one can meet with is an American in his
travels. Speaking but one language and that indifferently well, he hobnobs cheerfully with all nations, uses
with   the  courage  of ignorance  all  languages, and
© © © © 7
makes fast friends wherever he goes.
We started from Banff in the best of spirits. Had
we been in sombre mood, even, the extraordinary vision
of beauty and sublimity we beheld would have speedily
brightened it, for the sun was just rising above the
eastern mountains, and the freshness of morning was
on the world and in the air around us. Our course lay
along the pebbly banks of the sparkling Bow and up a
forest valley. We skirted the Vermilion Lakes and
ran along in full view of Mount Massive and the snowy
peaks above Simpson's Pass. We whirled around a
curve, and the eastern view of Pilot Mountain flashed
whitely upon  us, and then in   a moment  the Castle
jumped into sight, and
we   studied with   de-.
lighted eyes its mighty
precipice, its embattled
turrets and shapes of
fantastic armament.
We were wise enough
to be boys. We felt
no indifference and we
assumed none. We
were expectant, receptive, full of happy anticipations, with un-
jaded nerves, eager to
break voice in our excitement as a young,
highly bred hound in I
his first race.
I Judge,"    I    said,
looking into his flushed
face as he gazed with
delighted eyes at the
reflection of a moun- 216
tain in a small lake-like pool lying waveless at its base,
" Judge, how old are you this morning ? "
©     7 */ <—'
" Sixteen, — only sixteen, thank God ! "  he cried.
" This is my first vacation out of Darmouth," exclaimed Colonel Goffe; and he swung his hat and
yelled like a freshman after miraculously passing his
first term examination.
We were all looking for the first glacier.
" There it is ! " I cried suddenly; and I pointed
through the gap towards the lofty peak of Mount Hector.
Like a river it lay, — a river at full flow, which had
been frozen solid as it rolled onward and downward;
frozen solid and broken off, leaving only a crystallized
section exposed to the eye.
It was white, with green lights shot through its frac-
7 © © ©
tured and curved extremity, crescent shaped at the
end; a monstrous motion suddenly solidified as it
plunged downward, and fixed forever in the spot where
it hung suspended high up and far off in the air.
Above the forest, above the great bulk of the mountain, from the very peak, hung that strange, monumental appearance, a miracle of nature, a mystery of the
elements, a wonder to the tourist, like the vision of a
poet or a dream of uneasy slumber. Glacier after glacier we saw after that as we rolled onward through this
region of marvelous appearances, this land of enchantment, many larger, many higher, many more lovely,
more imposing, but none of the hundreds we looked
upon later impressed us more powerfully or fixed themselves with deeper impression upon the memory than "V.
this first one we saw chained to the crest of Mount
We were now nearing the summit. The grade rose
steeply. The huge engine clomb laboriously upward.
It breathed heavily, like a chopper in prolonged effort,
when his axe cuts to the centre of the tree and with
quickening blood and persistent strokes he delivers each
successive blow more fiercely. The cliffs panted back
to it. Now and then its circular feet slipped, but it
clung desperately to the rails.
" That engine has good grit," said Mr. Pepperell.
" How it hangs to it."
" I feel as if I would like to get out and push," replied the Judge.
" Do it, Judge," said the Man from New Hampshire.
" I '11 sit on this camp stool and hold your coat."
"Colonel Goffe," returned the Judge sternly, "the
Court fines you a Reina Victoria for that contemptuous remark."
I All the sentences of this Court end in smoke, I
notice," retorted the Colonel, as he handed the Judge
his cigar case.
" Here we are at Summit Lake," I exclaimed; and
even as I spoke the engine ceased to pant, and the train
began to ease itself along swiftly.
© © J
How beautiful is a pool among the mountains!
Small as it may be, how it can collect and reflect the
great world above and around it! It may not be as
big as a cliff, and yet a hundred cliffs are in it. A
single pine may bridge it, nevertheless it accommodates
miles upon miles of forest.    Small as it is, the great 220
sun comes and bathes in its depth. Acres of clouds
float through it. The sky, the numberless hills with
all their countless trees, the mountains so vast, their
innumerable peaks, — within its scant space all are
grouped and none are crowded. Sweet miracle of the
woods, placid mirror of the hills and skies, gentle eye
of the forest upon whose clear retina is focused the
sublimities of heaven and the beauties of surrounding
earth, how often hast thou lost me game and sport
because thy loveliness held me pensive at thy grassy
" I wish," cried the Judge, " I wish I could stay a
week here and do nothing but sit on the shore of that
little lake and gaze into its depths."
" And I wish I could be the artist to sketch you in
that position," said Colonel Goffe dryly. " If I should
put you in the foreground you would hide the whole
Downward we rolled.    We glided smoothly onward
© J
as a wing in easy flight cleaves the air.
" This is the poetry of motion," cried the Judge.
" We are floating around this mountain's verge as if
we were in a balloon."
" Look at this ! " Mr. Pepperell exclaimed. " Here
is a picture that money can't buy."
We were crossing the gorge of the Wapta River and
the sublime scenery which characterizes this section
was opening up ahead of us. The train was running
very slowly, creeping firmly but carefully along. It
seemed to be conscious, and to be clinging tightly and
safely to the mountain around whose awful curvature NAMELESS MOUNTAINS.
it was making its way with practiced fortitude. It suggested a sailor busily knotting a reef at the yard's end.
It is a frightful suspension, but safe — to him. At the
right of us the mountain sloped downward sharply a
clean thousand feet. To the left it rose nearly sheer
upward eight times as far. A black cloud smothered
its summit from a hundred gazing eyes. Within its
enveloping blackness a glacier lay white, cold, and
pulseless in its eternal swoon. Suppose it should be
suddenly shocked into life and motion and plunge
wildly downward ! How it fascinates you to imagine
the terrible when you are safe !
To the north a valley, wide, far-reaching, immense,
a landscape in itself, unexplored, stretched away in
magnificent perspective to distant peaks, white with
snow that will never melt. Far up this valley, lifted
high among nameless summits standing like grouped
spear points, was a glacier, wide as a frozen sea, deep
as an ocean, unvisited as yet by man, half of it in black
shadow, half flashing with blmding whiteness under the
7 © ©
sun, a mute challenge to the courage, the skill, and the
science of the continent to come and measure and
name it.
Ahead of us Mount Field reared high its black summit. Then rose Cathedral,Mount upon us, faded from
sight, and came again into view as we glided onward.
A majestic, solemn, suggestive presentation of massive
bulk and altitude it made, standing out in clear,
sharply edged outlines against the blue sky. While
above all, loftier, nobler, more varied and impressive,
rose the vast mass known as Mount Stephen. 222
None may describe this mountain. It is not like its
fellows round about it. It is not like common mountains. It has an individuality all its own. Our artist
has caught its spirit and given a resemblance — but at
what a remove from the real Mount Stephen itself.    It
■    .
is not a mountain to be put in a book, to be printed on
a page, to be hung on a wall. Some mountains lend
themselves kindly to such patronizing treatment, but
Mount Stephen is not of this sort. It cannot be translated from the wilderness and the sky on to canvas. It
cannot be snatched from its envelopment of clouds and NAMELESS MOUNTAINS.
hung from a peg on a parlor wall. It cannot be
coaxed from its native sunshine and shipped to Boston
per express. It is a mountain to go to, to visit, to see
brilliantly revealed in the sunlight, to gaze at dimly
outlined in the dark, to behold in the light of dawn, in
the red of sunset, under the stars of night, when the
moon clothes it in white splendor from summit to base
line. Go and see Mount Stephen so and you shall find
in the vision the memory of a lifetime.
_T3g4l. T was the Sabbath day and we were
*L- at Field.    With us were a company,
tourists like 'ourselves, who had decided to spend our Sabbath among
the mountains, making of it a day
of rest  in  truth.     And  if   among
the mountains, where better than at
Field, under the shadow of Mount Stephen, and with
a multitude of majestic altitudes all around us.
The afternoon was well advanced, and all of us, quite
an audience in numbers, were grouped on the piazza,
when we saw a gentleman strolling down the track to-
ward the hotel. He was tall, bronzed, and had an
Alpine knapsack at his back and a note-book in his
| There! there comes the clergyman we have been 11VI1
§1, MJfe^B^pifci^*
praying for all day," cried a young lady to her companion, at my elbow. " There comes our clergyman,
and now we can have a regular service; won't that be
nice! " And her pink palms met in a way to express
the fervor of her religious enthusiasm.
" Jennie, dear," said her companion, a motherly
looking lady, " you are always jumping to your . conclusions.   How do you know the gentleman is a clergy-
•/ © ©«/
man at all ? "
I Ah, I know he is," she reiterated with emphasis.
" But how do you know ? " the other insisted.
" Well, because — because — he don't look a bit
like one ! " she replied.
Nevertheless, in spite of the young lady's assertion,
the gentleman who was slowly approaching us did look
somewhat like a clergyman.    And when he had ioined
©*/ *J
us and we had engaged him in conversation, our impression as to his clerical status was deepened, for he
spoke with much feeling and with true spiritual discernment of the religious relations of nature. But
whatever doubt remained was suddenly dissipated when
he opened his knapsack, for as he did so the leaves
of a manuscript closely and careful written were plainly
" My dear sir," said the Judge, " I cannot but consider your coming as providential. This is the Lord's
day, and here we, a company of Christian wanderers,
find ourselves spending the holy day among the everlasting hills. We desired to hold a religious service,
but are as a flock without a shepherd, for there is not
a clergyman among all this large number of tourists. 228
But now we are, if I mistake not, delivered from our
dilemma, for you, my dear sir, are — are you not a
clergyman ? "
11 am sorry that I am compelled to disappoint you,"
answered the man, " but I am not a clergyman."
" Not a clergyman ! " exclaimed the Judge; " surely,
sir, that manuscript there must be " —
" No, that is not a sermon," interrupted the stranger,
smiling.    " It is only a story."
" I think a story is as good as a sermon, any time,"
cried the young lady who had been so confident that
the new-comer was a clergyman. "And if it isn't
too awfully jolly, I wish the gentleman would read it
to us. My eyes ache from looking, and I would like
to close them and see with my ears, as papa says, for
half an hour."
" My dear sir," exclaimed the Judge, " the young
lady has voiced my feelings admirably and I doubt not
the wishes of the company, and if your story is not of
too fight a nature, I pray you read it to us, and feel
that you are doing us all a positive service. I can
promise you, sir, an attentive audience."
" The story I would read you is sober enough for
the day," responded the man, 1 and suggests a theme
fit to be meditated on within the shadow of these
awful surroundings even; nor will it be of less value
because it is of the nature of a personal experience.
If you will arrange yourselves to easily hear me, I will
gladly read you the story."
In a moment some fifty of us were grouped around
the stranger, and certainly no preacher or author ever ROSS   PEAK.  SABBATH AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.
had a more attentive audience than we gave him as
he read the strange tale; and surely it would take a
long search to find a sermon weighted with a more
startling thought. At least, so many of us said at the
end of it.
It was in the autumn of 1878, that I found myself
riding through that portion of Canada which borders
the northern shore of the Ottawa, some hundred miles
above its junction with the St. Lawrence. The day
was one of a series peculiar to that time of the year
and that section of the country. The heat of summer
had departed, chilled southward by the advancing
frost which the arctic cold had posted in advance to
give warning of its approach. But in the valleys
and along the hedgerows which skirted the southern
© ©
exposure of the mountains, the delicious warmth still
lingered, as if loth to leave the pleasant haunts where
it had so long tarried, happy in the music of the running brooks and the birds that sang in the odorous
© ©
Indeed, it seemed as if here and there it had determined to resist its savage foe ; for in nooks where the
russet leaves lay thickest and in the wedge-like crevices
of ledges it kept almost its August warmth, as if it felt
safe to await a fiercer attack behind such formidable
I had ridden already a goodly distance, and neither
I nor my horse was in a mood to hurry; the reins lay
loosely on his neck, and he picked his way along the 232
grass-grown path with the leisurely step peculiar to
his species when neither their inclination nor that of
their riders urge them to a faster gait. Perhaps he as
well as I enjoyed not merely the slowness of the pace,
but the nature of the surroundings also; for his large,
observant eyes studied the flaming bushes as closely
as mine, and to his senses the mingled odors of the
dying grasses and withered leaves, blended with the
fragrance of the evergreens that live on through win-
© O ©
ter and summer alike, may have been as grateful as
they were to mine as I breathed them in.
I had just turned a curve in the road and was descending a gentle slope — a mountain on my left and
a stretch of level woodland on my right — when I suddenly came upon a clearing, of some three acres in extent, enclosed by a fence. Age had weakened the
settings of the posts, and it no longer kept the trueness
of the original lines, but sagged and swayed at different points, while here and there the winds of winter
had blown sections of it prone to the ground. The
grasses had grown through the palings, and masses of
running vines formed over them, whose leaves were
now aflame with color.
I instinctively checked my horse to more closely inspect this unexpected opening in the woods, involuntarily looking, as I did so, for the house or the ruins
of the house that one day stood, as I naturally supposed, in the clearing; and it was not until I had
quite reined my horse into the cleared space, passing
through a gap which the winds had made in the
enclosure, and looked.the field over more closely, that SABBATH AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.
I discerned that it had never been intended for human
habitation, at least not for the habitation of the living,
but had rather been set apart for the repose of the
dead. The space, in short, hi to which I had ridden,
was a cemetery.
No sooner had I made this discovery than, impelled
by curiosity in part, and in part by reverence, I dismounted, and throwing the reins over a post which
had once been one of the pillars of the main entrance,
I strolled further into the solemn field, with emotions
such as would be natural to a man entering a grave-
© ©
yard thus suddenly discovered in the depths of the
I Here," I said to myself, " the former settlers of
this once inhabited but now deserted region fie buried.
A majestic place for a burial ground, truly; " and I
glanced upward at the surrounding mountains which
lifted their vast sides round about the vale. | Truly,"
I continued, " here is a fitting place for the weary to
rest after the trials and fatigues of life. The aged
who had long borne the heat and burden of the day
and they who were suddenly checked in manhood's
swift career, husband and wife, parent and child, all
could here find the peace which comes after strife,
and that sweet rest which waits on human toil. It is
pleasant to think that nature, after the fret and fever
of life were over, so kindly provided them, amid the
very scenes where they toiled and doubtless suffered, a
place to repose."
Thus moralizing, I cast my eyes about to discover
the number and the grouping of the graves, not doubt- 234
ing I should find many, and with them monumental
evidences, of however humble a sort, that affection had
remembered them when they had passed away; but
to my astonishment I could discover only two graves
within the entire enclosure. These were situated side
by side, on a slight elevation that swelled its summit
near the centre of the enclosure. Confident that
further searching would reveal more to me, I made a
careful inspection of the field, until I had traversed it
from corner to corner and had convinced myself that
this strange graveyard was so not only because of its
location, a place set apart for the dead where there
were none to die, but also because, large as it was, it
held but two graves.
1A stranger graveyard than this," I said to myself, " was never seen, for of all the burial places that
men ever set apart, of such goodly dimensions as this,
I doubt if there be another on the face of the whole
earth so sparsely populated: the tenantry of kindred
fields is generally crowded enough, and he who has
the fortune to occupy a place therein never lacks for
neighbors. I will approach the graves and see what
memorial affectionate custom has traced upon these
lonely slabs." So saying, I drew near to the two graves
and proceeded to inspect them more closely.
They were placed some eight feet apart, both facing
to the south. It was evident from the size of the
mounds that they had been builded for adult bodies,
and apparently near the same time. The grasses had
matted thickly over both, and a running vine whose
main root had sprung from the earth equidistant be-
tween the two had sent a branch out impartially toward each. It had grown so luxuriantly that it had
embraced either mound, and sent its creeping tendrils
even to the top of the two short and narrow slabs of
plainly-wrought stone, such as rude skill might easily
have quarried from the ledge in the neighboring
ravine. It seemed as if nature had, by the growth of
her vine, tenderly united in suggestive unity the two
mounds, which, standing farther apart and without connection, would have been lonely indeed. " Surely," I
said to myself, " this is a quaint and touching spectacle. Only two graves in all this field, and they lying
side by side on this little eminence and so affectingly
connected. Is there some sweet conscience in nature
which forbids her to decorate the one and leave the
other unadorned ? " And I remembered the saying
that the rain falleth alike on the just and unjust.
11 doubt not," I continued, " that these two who sleep
here were brothers, who had nursed at one maternal
breast; who had labored in this vale and on these hills
side by side, and who, struck down by death, perhaps
simultaneously, were brought by reverential hands in
the slow and solemn fashion of the country and with
priestly benediction laid side by side. Or perhaps they
were two friends strongly attached, some David and
Jonathan of this forest glade, who, being so closely
united in life as to furnish a proverb of loving companionship, in death were not divided."
Filled with such pleasant imaginings, I kneeled on
one of the mounds and with my hand gently moved
aside the viney tracery that garnished its white surface 236
with ruddy ornament, in order to read what might be
carved beneath.
"James Flynn, aged 60 years, 8 mos. and 9 days.
Born April 10th, 17—.    Died Nov. 14th, 18—."
I then turned toward the other mound, and kneeling
on it lifted the vine from the face of the other slab
and read, —
" John Peters, aged 61 years. Born May 19th,
17_.    Died Nov. 14th, 18—."
" Buried the same day," I said, rising to my feet.
" Buried the same day, and for these thirty years their
dust has mouldered side by side. Old men too, honest
and honored, I doubt not; brothers they certainly were
not, but friends they must have been, or surely they
would not have found such close vicinage in death.
Old men, who had lived their lives out until the crescent of their youth had come to the full rounded orb
of its perfect sphere. Happy in having outlived their
passions and the frailties and bitternesses that come
therefrom, happy indeed were they," I added, " in
having entered, before they came to their tomb, that
peace and pleasantness of mood which give to the
aged the chiefest beauty of their earthly life and the
perfect preparation for the life to come."
While I had thus been pleasantly musing I had almost unconsciously been walking toward my horse, and
with my mind still filled with the thought of the two
graves I had so suddenly found, and was so soon to
leave, I placed my reins on the neck of the animal and
my foot in the stirrup, saying as I did so, " I would
that I knew the history of the two graves thus so  9! SABBATH AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.
strangely placed in this quiet field, and of the two men
who have slept and are destined to sleep so long in
them side by side."
" I can tell you the history of the two men " —
I turned so suddenly at the unexpected sound of a
human voice that the speaker was checked in the midst
of the sentence he was uttering. He was a man,
old and white headed and bowed with years, for he
carried a staff in one hand and was even then leaning
heavily upon it. I noticed also that the hand that
grasped the stick trembled and shook with that peculiar tremulousness which so often accompanies the
weakening of muscular power. Was it something in
the fit and color of his garments, was it something
O ' o
in the dignity of his mien, or was it because of the
peaceful expression of his countenance ? From whichever one of these causes, perhaps from them all combined, I conceived that he belonged to the clergy.
" Reverend sir," said I, releasing my foot from the
stirrup and turning toward him, " reverend sir," said
I, and I uncovered my head, " I am journeying through
the country with a companion who is now on the road
some miles behind me, and coming suddenly upon this
opening, I observed the two graves yonder and judged
that this was a graveyard. Moved by that impulse
common to human hearts in so solemn a place, I entered the enclosure to discover what memorials affection had reared above those who sleep. But to my
astonishment I have been able to find only two graves
in all the field, and I was marvelling, as you interrupted me, at the strange spectacle;   so strange that 240
I doubt if its equal can be found in all the world, the
spectacle of a graveyard with only two graves."
11 doubt not," responded the old man, " that your
observation is correct, for though I have seen many
graveyards myself, and helped to lay many to sleep
therein, I know no other allotted to men's final repose
in which the number of those who sleep is so small; '
and he added, " I would that these were not here, for
a sadder lesson than they teach has never been my lot
to learn, and the recollection they recall, as I behold
them lying here alone, forms one of the saddest memories of my life."
" You speak, reverend sir — for I judge you to be a
clergyman — as if you had knowledge of them."
The old man paused a moment before he replied.
His eyes were turned toward the two graves, and in
them was a far-away look as if they ranged backward
across the dim distance of many years ; then he added,
"I officiated at the service when those two graves were
I Indeed," I exclaimed, " indeed! then may I hope
to learn something of their history, and how it comes
about that only two sleep in this sacred field and they
sleep side by side. I should like to know of the lives
of those who are its only occupants. Surely there must
have been some peculiar history attached to them, —
some tender passage in their fives, a life-long sympathy of a notable and noble sort, — to account for the
fact that two, who by their names, it would seem, were
not akin, should thus be lying in their last sleep like
brothers, inseparable even in death." SABBATH AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.
" Your surmises are far from correct," replied the
venerable man. " They were not brothers, as you have
suggested, they were not even friends, they were bitter
Enemies ! " exclaimed I, " enemies ! great heavens !
How came they then to be buried side by side ? "
" Your astonishment is but natural," was the answer. " It was strange, it was unnatural, it was even
irreverent, but it was in accordance with their wish, —
I may say their express command."
11 pray you," said I, rehitching my horse at the
post, " I pray you, if your leisure permits, tell me the
tale, for certain it is that my mind cannot conceive
why two enemies should desire to be buried side by
side. Surely human life is long enough to exhaust the
force of human hatred; or is it a part of that fierce
fire which is never quenched, not even by the waters
of death, or the smothering dampness of the grave ? "
" I will comply with your request," responded the
aged man, " for I am weary with walking and would
willingly rest a little space before I pursue my way. You
must know, then," he continued, as he seated himself
on a stone opposite me, " you must know that I visited
this place partly that I might see once more the
beauties of nature in this secluded spot, and partly that
my eyes might behold again the scenes that were once
so familiar and, I may add, so grateful to them.
" Thirty years ago this little vale, now so reposeful,
resounded with the hum of human activity. In yonder
mountain side you can find a shaft sunk by the miners'
skill, in search of the rich ores which were then be- 242
lieved to fie buried within its sides. Here, in the
depths of the forest, a village sprang up, as it were in
a day, and men of many nationalities came pouring
into this secluded glen in what proved to be a vain
search for gold. Providence guided me to this spot,
even with the first wagon train that penetrated here,
and here I stayed and ministered the best I might to
their eternal good, until the last wagon left the glen
forever. Ah, those were stirring and noisy times,"
mused the old man, as if he once more saw the bustle
and heard the noise of the busy encampment. " A
hundred axes swept the mighty trees from yonder
slope, and half a hundred cabins rose as by magic on
the banks of yonder brawling stream. The giant pines
that then stood where is now this clearing furnished
the walls of their habitations, and from yonder rock,
by which that aged beech-tree stands, I preached the
best I might, to those who came seeking earthly wealth,
of that other treasure which neither moth nor rust can
corrupt, nor thieves break through and steal."
" I do not doubt," I said, as the venerable man
paused a moment in the recital of his early efforts to
lead men to be wise, " that your endeavors were as
successful as I feel they were earnest."
" They were not wholly in vain," replied the other
reverently, " for I had the everlasting word and the
spirit that quickeneth to assist me, and even the foolishness of preaching did not wholly fail. For with
two exceptions the toilers in the mines and they who
tilled the open spaces, where nature made tillage possible, lived in peace one with another and outwardly,
at least, kept the laws of God. SABBATH AMONG THE MOUNTAINS. 243
" I said all but two; these two were men of another
country and another clime. Both were dark of face
and mood, and scarred in unknown fights. It was
whispered that they had met in deadly conflict years
before, and that the scars of each were of wounds made
by the other. But none knew, perhaps, for certain, for
they were of a sort little given to speech and told their
history to none.
" That they hated each other they did not conceal,
and their hatred was of that quiet and deadly sort
most painful to see. They were not loved by any.
They were even shunned by those with whom they
toiled. Indeed, they were the dark spirits of the camp,
for it might scarce be called a settlement, and their
presence was universally regretted; and yet they made
no disturbance; but whether from the peculiar orderliness of their surroundings or because each with the
patience of deadly cunning bided his time, there was
no outbreak between them.
1 For two years they worked side by side. By a
strange fortune, for the cabins were built in common
and then drawn for by lot, the one drew No. 20, and
the other 21, and so they lived side by side in silent
"It was a terrible way to live," I remarked, for
the strange tale interested me deeply, " and certainly
a stranger fortune never befell two foes, than to thus
meet in a foreign land, scarred by each other's blows,
and toil side by side by day and live in houses that
almost touched, hating each other with terrible hatred,
and yet never exchanging word or blow." 244
" It was, indeed," returned the old man, " a terrible
way indeed, and I did what I could to bring them to a
better mind. God knows I labored with them and
strove in prayer in their behalf; but my labor was in
vain, and my prayers, for some wise purpose, were
never answered, for their hearts remained hardened,
and I could make no salutary impression on their
wicked souls.
" The mines, which at first had been productive, suddenly gave out and no longer paid the expenses of
working them. And at the end of two years they
were abandoned and the settlement prepared to disperse. When scarcely a dozen remained and these,
myself among the number, were preparing to follow
those who were already gone, the two men, who had
made no preparations to go and were evidently intending to remain, for the purpose, I doubt not, of meeting once more in  savage conflict with none near to
© ©
thwart their deadly intent, were suddenly taken sick.
Humanity forbade that we should desert them, and we
tarried until the end should appear, but their sickness
was unto death, and we had not long to wait.
" They died the same night. The one but a few
moments before the other. I attended at their death
beds, but had no other reward than the consciousness
of duty .done. The one that died first showed no
concern save for one thing; asked but one question,
Would the other die ? A brother miner standing by
his side answered, I He will not live an hour.'
" For an instant the light of a wild, fierce satisfaction
blazed balefully from the eyes that were already half EAST  OTTERTAIL. iPH! SABBATH AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.
eclipsed behind the shadow of death, and in what
seemed to us to be an imprecation breathed in an unknown tongue, the wretched man straightened himself
in his bed, and with the deadly scowl still on his face,
and the passing curse still quivering on his lips, died.
It was a terrible scene, sir."
" It must have been," I exclaimed, " it must have
been ; but did the other show no repentance ? "
" None whatever," was the mournful reply. " From
the presence of the dead I went to the presence of the
dying. A miner who had worked by his side in the
shaft, and was in some sort a comrade, was standing
by his cot as I drew near. Life was fast ebbing away,
and what might be done must be done quickly. I
begged that I might pray with him. He refused. I
gently urged him to repentance. He smiled in mockery. Suddenly starting from the deadly stupor settling
on him, he asked the miner if his enemy were living.
He was told that the man had even then died. A look
of fiendish satisfaction flashed through the gloom of
© ©
his swarth face, and lifting his clenched fists he brought
7 © ©
them down, smiting the couch with dying energy, as if
it were the head of his foe.
" i Have you any wish to leave behind you ?' asked
his comrade.
" | Yes,' he answered, and the words were hissed
from between his teeth with indescribable fierceness.
| Yes.    Make my grave close beside his, damn him.'
" It was a terrible scene, a terrible scene," exclaimed
the old man, and for a moment he hid his face in his
hands as if the distance of thirty years were not enough
to shut it from his eyes.    At length he resumed, — 248
" Unnatural and terrible as it was, we felt constrained, at least the miners did, to obey the dying behest ; and so on the morrow the men who had hated
each other in life, and hated each other in death, were
buried side by side."
The old man paused at this point a moment, evidently oppressed by the memory of human passion and
wickedness he had been narrating. At length his
eyes wandered toward the two graves which nature
had so impartially adorned, and upon which nature's
sun was now shining so kindly, and he added, —
" There have they slept these thirty years, side by
side, unknown and unnoted, save by some chanee
traveler like yourself. And there will they sleep until
the resurrection trump shall sound and they shall rise
at its commanding summons."
" Surely," I exclaimed, " surely that morn will not
find them in their hatred. Surely, reverend sir, you
cannot believe that when the trumpet of the Lord shall
sound, and men come forth in obedience to its call,
these two shall rise with the old hatred in their souls ? "
" I cannot tell as one who speaks from knowledge,"
answered the old man, " but I have studied the characters of men these sixty years, and noted the laws that
seemed to underlie their changes, but have seen nothing to warrant the belief that character, once settled
and confirmed, ever changes. Habits change, men
acquire new expression for their powers, but the character itself remains permanent and solidly fixed as the
everlasting hills, unless previous to death a change is
wrought by the Spirit through repentance." SABBATH AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.
" But, sir," I exclaimed, " does death, then, do nothing for us, and does the grave not bring a cooling to
the fierce heat of human passion ? Surely one might
judge by the way in which men of your profession
speak at funeral scenes, that at the close of life, even
in the act of its closing, there comes to men a needed
and a blessed correction. Certainly I have heard them
so express themselves, and I myself have found comfort
in the faith that amid the darkest clouds of death the
mourner's eye could always see a star."
" I know that under the pressure of the scene, and
of that humane desire, strong in every sympathetic
heart, to speak some word that can console the present
grief," answered the old man, " that my brethren do
thus speak at funerals. And I myself have often been
prompted to do the same and have often done it, but
I am confident that the impulse of the moment was
not born of reason and had no warrant in the Scripture, for the Scripture saith, ' As the tree falls so shall
it lie,' and again, 'Let him who is filthy be filthy
still.' And in these sayings, God does not, as I conceive, speak judgments on men, but simply asserts the
permanence of human character, which, amid whatever
of ruin may have come to it, retains at least the dignity
of being true unto itself."
" What hope is there for man, then ? " I cried out;
" for if no blessed change may come and all must be
in the hereafter even as they are here, if not swift-
mercy matches the swiftness of the fatal stroke, I how
can the eternal Father adjust the feelings of his bosom
to mortal circumstance ?    Venerable man, it is not for 250
me, who am untaught in doctrine, to argue with one
7 O 7 o
like you, clerically trained and wise with years, but
eternity is long and life is short. The cradle and the
grave are ever in sight, and short the space and swift
the passage from the one to the other. Must there not
be at the end something to match the love that watched
over us in the beginning, some sweet forgiveness to
hover on tireless wing above our growing faults, some
wisdom to constantly point out and some love to persuade us unto good, and in the end, if necessary, some
almighty mercy to wipe, with one brave gesture of
atoning pity, the stains of all our faults and sins away ?
Say, reverend man, does no such divine provision
exist ? I
It is but just to say that the old man was profoundly
affected by the appeal, which, in the depth of my longing for human kind thus stirred, I had poured forth
with unconscious earnestness. . He actually groaned
aloud, as if on his spirit, which it needed but a glance
at his benevolent face to see was full of sweetest pity
for all the erring, there rested the Atlas-like load of
human destiny. He groaned aloud, and rising from
the rock on which he had been resting, he lifted his
aged face to the skies and with tears marking their
course down his wrinkled cheeks, he said : —
I The heavens are full of mercy, that I know, and
motherhood without sex divides, at least, with sterner
elements the throne. But man is a mighty being; he
is too great to change or be changed, save by his own
volition, and when once the character is formed, when
the tree has firmly rooted itself and clasped the move- SABBATH AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.
less rock beneath, — how shall it change ? Whence
shall come the wish to change ? How out of concentrated evil shall be born the holy purpose ? But young
man," he added, as he took my hand, | you are young,
and I would not dim a single hope that lights the
world ahead of you, nor would I dispel any happy illusion, even, that may solace your grief when grief shall
come. For even illusions, if they be comforting, may
serve a divine purpose. No, no, live happily, in hopeful thoughts of men, for hope is often truer than logic.
But these men were matured. Their minds fully
made up, they died impenitent; aye, resisting overtures of mercy, they went into the grave mutually
resisting each other. What is there in that silence
yonder ? § and he pointed his long finger toward the
Little eminence on which the two graves were, " what
is there in the silence of their long sleep there to
change them ?    Do men change their natures in slum-
© ©
ber ? Do they not rise as they lie down ? The trump
will sound. Those graves wilL open. Those sleepers
there will wake — wake from their long sleep, and I
fear they will wake hating each other still. For hatred
lives with the immortality of all ill;" and with these
words the old clergyman bade me good-by and turned
For a moment his eyes studied the surrounding
mountains as if they were taking their long and affectionate farewell; for a moment he stood and listened
to the soft, musical lapsing of the stream that murmured through the glade, and then, supported by the
staff he held, with feet that brushed the ruddy and 252
rustling leaves aside as they walked on, he passed
slowly up the lane and disappeared from view.
My conversation with the old clergyman had given
me ample food for meditation. The strange history he
had told and the fearful supposition he had advanced
possessed my mind to the exclusion of any other subject. The loneliness of the secluded spot, when he had
retired, seemed lonelier than before he had joined me.
The two graves seemed to deepen the solitude. They
no longer suggested human companionship, but alienation, and between the two I seemed to see a great
gulf fixed, deep and wide, such as relentless and interminable enmity digs between two souls. Would
Heaven's mercy ever bridge a gulf like that, or would
it yawn unbridged forever ? Was the old man right ?
Is human hatred immortal ? Is there no solvent in the
grave to check its eating corrosion or wash its deepening stain away ? Thus I, pondering, questioned destiny,
and pushed my thoughts out into the eternities. How
many have questioned thus. But has any human eye
ever seen the stony lips of this dreadful sphinx open
in answer, or has any human ear ever heard a sure
response ?
The sun shone warmly along the mountain side and
showered the lonely opening with its beams. The
leaves were yellow and thick at my feet, and my faithful horse dozed at his post. " I will wait for the coming of my companion," I said, and casting myself amid
the warm leaves I leaned back against a moss-covered
stone, and thus, half reclining, fell asleep.
What are dreams ? Are they prophecies ?   Were the   SABBATH AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.
old prophets only dreamers ? Are they senseless movements of the thinking faculty ? What becomes of the
mind when we sleep ? Does it sleep too, or is it able to
receive impressions, which the slumbering senses are
then unable to report ? Are the visions that come to it
mere fantasies, void of truth or reason? Who can
tell ? I only know that I slept, and sleeping dreamed.
And in that dream I was changed myself, and saw
such changes in earth and men that I seek in vain for
words with which to describe them.
I said I was changed.    I was.    I was grown out of
and above my old self and had become a new being.
New sight was mine, new hearing ; I could see everywhere : I could hear everything. I ruled space. No
sound, no motion escaped me. It was marvellous.
This is the best I can do to describe the change
in me.
I said I saw changes. I did. There was no horizon
to my vision. My sight was circular, and my eyes
flashed great zones of observation round the globe in-
© ©
stantly. How active men were, and how idle ! How
sad, and how merry ! I saw them being born, I saw
them dying. Some were praying, some were carousing, some were dancing, some were fighting ; and the
mighty murmur of all their noises, their sobbing and
their laughing, their groaning and their cheering,
their praying and their cursing, as it swelled up from
the earth and rolled its waves of sound around the
globe, came collectively and individually into my ears,
even as ordinary sound is heard by us in waking moments.    What a capacity I was, while like a god I lay, 256
seeing the whole world and hearing all its varied
noises. Does the body dwarf us so ? Does it bind us
with withes of Limitation as the Philistines did Samson;
and is death but the snapping of the cords in the severance of which there comes back to us the mighty
and original strength ? I wonder.
o o
Suddenly, even as I was looking with this all-perceiving vision, and listening with this all - receiving
sense of hearing,  silence fell on the world.    Not a
The guns of war
noise ; not a voice; not a whisper,
were dumb. Men were dumb. Volcanoes were smothered by their last explosion and their craters yawned
silently. The waves stiffened and stood rigid. Birds,
checked in mid flight, hung fixed, as if nailed to the
sky. All living things stood still. The hush of an
awful expectation fell on the world.
Next, darkness! Darkness dense, instant, impenetrable. No sun, no moon, no star, no taper, no spark.
The darkness did not come, — it was. The sun did
not fade, — the moon did not wane. The stars did not
grow dim by degrees. The fires of the earth did not
pale. The candles did not flicker — all lights, on the
instant, in the twinkling of an eye, exploded and went
out. No noise, no fight. Silence and darkness over
all the earth !
The world listened. Nature hid her face and waited.
What was coming ?
A noise, a sound as of many waters! A peal as of
a mammoth bell rung by mighty and invisible hands
in an invisible belfry ! A blast: a trumpet note, blown
by immeasurable power; a note round, full, immense, SABBATH AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.
that captured the universe and filled it so that its very
borders rang!    The last trump !
The field in which I lay shook. A thrill as of awful
terror ran through the sod. The turf seemed to creep
and shrivel with fear. The two graves opened. The
two men rose, and each standing in his coffin looked at
the other, the same — great God! — the very same
as when they died ! They had slept a thousand years,
ten thousand, but all the years had not changed them
a whit, for the same hatred glared in their faces as
they stood in the resurrection as when they died, cursing each other in the cabins that stood by the gurgling
stream. Yea, there they were, unchanged by all the
years that had come and gone since their bodies had
been buried side by side, in that Little cLearing in the
Canadian woods, ten thousand years before !
| Do those wretches know what an eternity there is
before them ? " I said to myself, as I gazed in horror at
the spectacle. " I will go and plead with them," and
I was on the point of starting up when I felt a shock
— a terrible shock — as if the solid earth had exploded,
and then another more terrible than the former. I
screamed, my eyes sprang open.
I Wake up ! wake up ! " It was my companion
who was shaking me.
I Wake up; what are you dreaming about, old boy ? "
Thank God, it was a dream ! Thank God, nothing
but a dream. Perhaps the old pastor was wrong, perhaps men do change, — perhaps. CHAPTER XIII.
'' I will lift up mine eyes unto the hills.'
'.WEEPING around the point of a nameless mountain, we glided into the dim,
narrow vista of a snow-shed, five hundred yards, perhaps, in length. Here
and there its gloom was crossed with
shafts of light and checkered with
gleaming rays, which made of the long vista a kaleidoscope of jet-black blocks bordered by bright, many-
colored lines, changeful and lively, presenting to the
gazer's eye a lovely picture to look upon; while far
beyond, the aperture stared at us like a great white,
expressionless eye, at which we rushed with rattle and
roar and burst of thunderous soimd from wheel and
truck, hissing brakes and belching funnel, but which, THE GREAT GLACIER.
unfrightened, stared steadily at us without shrinking
as we came hurtling on. In a moment we were shot
out of the monstrous tunnel, framed with gigantic timbers, strongly braced as is the curvature of the world,
on which the avalanche falls harmless, and over whose
roof, angled truly to the mountain slope and riveted
into its side, the awful landslide, wide and long with
the width and length of acres, its trees all standing and
its huge bowlders undisturbed, pours its vast mass into
the ravine below, leaving
this magnificent device
man's invention unshaken and unstirred.
Onward we whirled, the majestic forest trees on
either side. Upon our left a mountain slope, wide,
high lifted, an immense stretch of sylvan surface; on
our right a dark, deep ravine, down whose black bottom a glacial torrent drew its foaming line; when suddenly our engine curved sharply to the right, and lo, a
spectacle of spectacles stood full before our wondering
" Heavens! " exclaimed the Judge excitedly, " was
there ever such a sight ? "
Those who have traveled, who have wandered far
and seen much, will tell you that out of the mass of
things, places and faces they have seen, a few alone remain fixed and clearly outlined in memory. Many are
the pictures we hang on memory's walls, but with the
passage of time most fade to blackness. Only a few
hold their colors fast, and fewer yet brighten them as
the years go on : here an ocean scene, a storm, a drifting wreck lightning-lighted, or scudding like the ghost
© © © © 7 O ©
of a ship through the  tempestuous moonlight; or it 260
may be a face, — a single face, old or young,
sad, Living or dead,
a friend's, a foe's,
a stranger's; a
stretch of forest, a
mountain view
torrent bursting
from some savage
gorge down which
Chaos hurriedly
trailed, followed by
her unformed remnants when driven
from the face of
the   earth  by  the
growing   order   of
© ©
the skies.    So travelers   testify,  and
thus we who gazed, gray-headed wanderers all of us,
knew it would be with this spectacle which stood in start- 1
ling clearness before our eyes, and which had risen into
view on the instant from the depths of the savage Sel-
kirks. It was a picture as clearly cut as some old
cameo edged by that antique skill that now is dead;
as pronounced in the lines of its drafting as strongly
contrasting colors in nature might make it: so varied
in the figures introduced, so strange and even startling
in"the grouping of its related parts, that upon the instant it dominated the mind and boldly challenged f or-
" Never did I see such a picture," said Mr. Pepperell
in a low voice, " never, not even on the Fraser or the
Thompson in the old days !"
And this is the picture we saw, translated from its
majesty and glories down to the paltry measurement
and dull neutrality of petty, colorless words : —
A little plat rescued from chaos by man's love of
order ; a level space of scant size, made by ironing out
the corrugation of the hills; on this little platform,
or plateau of level space, a cottage, unique in style,
neither house nor chalet, but fitting harmoniously to
the landscape; in front, a space graveled and platted
for flowers, — a summer garden in miniature. In the
centre of it a fanciful fountain jetted its glacial spray
upward, where the wind caught it, and blew it at random through the bright sunlight, so that in flying and
falling it filled all the air with broken pearls, fragments of silver, and sparklings of prismatic fire. Far
below this scant level space, with its graveled walks,
flashing fountain, and widely verandahed miniature
mansion, dropped a gorge through which a glacial tor- 264
rent whirled its white line of hoarse noise. Sheer upward lifted the opposite mountain, a full ten thousand
feet, its bold siimmit of steel gray rock well named
Eagle Peak, for only an eagle's wing might reach it.
Down its imposing front a torrent foamed from top
to base. Slowly through the long, lofty distance our
admiring eyes swept their gaze until they rested upon
the buttressed battlements of Sir Donald, which, pointed
like a pyramid, interrogates the mysteries of star and
sky, the golden course of wheeling orbs, and the meaning of that blue depth and distance which fie level,
serene, and still, above the storms which vex the lower
1 That monstrous shaft," said the Judge, as we all
stood gazing at Sir Donald, " is a solemn interrogation
of what is above and beyond."
"Look at this," said Mr. Pepperell calmly, as he
faced about.
In the rear of the chalet a magnificent forest growth
swelled loftily upward, symmetrical, proportionate, a
lovely, harmonious whole, — a sylvan picture, vast of
height, framed by the sky in massive blue, and fretted
along its edges with scuds of mist and changeful drifts
of cloud. Never had the eye of one of us wood wanderers seen a lovelier exhibition of forest growth;
abundant, dense, soft-toned, untouched by fire, un-
scarred by violence of slide or avalanche; a landscape
scene of unmatched perfection.
Slowly our eyes wandered down the pass and clomb
the Hermit Range, peak by peak, stole along its slopes
of ice, and crept beneath the glaciers, filling  every MT. HERMIT, ROGERS   PASS.  THE GREAT GLACIER.
gorge, hanging poised ready to drop, or held, jammed
in the vast amphitheatres where they have been held
beyond the count of years, and where they will remain,
unmoved, unmelted, until time is ended or the present
order of creation passes away.
So we stood steadfastly gazing at the vast vision, enraptured, when an exclamation from a man behind us
faced us around, and there, to the north and east, we
saw a sight which may not, perhaps, be matched in its
grandeur and surroundings on this earth of ours. A
glacier, vast, lofty, immense, buttressed, fissured, creviced, — a section of the Mississippi tilted up obliquely
and frozen solid; the St. Lawrence pouring bodily over
a mountain range ten thousand feet above you and
turned on the instant into ice, stiffened solid at its maddest plunge; a creation of ten thousand years; a monument above those past, dead years, which all the rain
and shine of other equal years to come will not efface;
standing cold, monstrous, motionless, silent, sublime,
within a distance so short from our parlor car that even
the weakest woman or smallest child in it might, by an
easy stroll, stand under its ponderous front. Heavens!
how small, how feeble, how insignificant seemed the
engine of our heavy train, with its sobs, and pantings,
and puny puffs of power, beside that monstrous creation of ages, that landscape of frozen force, that overhanging world of chained energy which, should Nature
ever loosen the chiLLed links which chained it to that
mountain pass, would sweep our engine, train, and
yonder house away like chips; ay, crush, grind and
pulverize them all to finest dust, so fine that, were it 268
dry, the winds might lift it as they lift ashes and blow
it through the air, invisible to mortal eye.
| Never shall it be said," exclaimed the Judge, " that
I came to such an environment of majesty as this and
passed heedlessly on. Here we will stop a day and a
nio-ht, and see the sunset splendor and the sunrise glory
on these peaks, and the moonlight whiten the surface
of that frozen field. There is not ice enough in Switzerland to make that single glacier yonder. Let the
train move on. We four have wandered on the earth
too widely and seen too many of its wonders not to
recognize the extraordinary and do homage to it."
And so the train rolled down the grade, around the
swell of the mountain beyond, and left us four gray-
headed boys standing above the glacial torrent, gazing
and wondering.
That afternoon we took the trail — an easy way,
which led us to the Glacier's front. Slowly we drew
our line of progress toward it. The fit mood was on
us all.    We were alone, we four.    We were intelligent
5 ©
enough to appreciate the awful phenomenon. We saw
it with the eyes of many years. We could measure it
by European comparison. We could weigh it in the
scales of world-wide knowledge. Two of us had
footed the Alpine passes. One had seen the Himalayas. Another had wintered within the Arctic Circle.
Slowly we moved forward. A few rods of motion
onward, and we would pause. We were all eyes, all
feeling. We felt we were approaching a fragment of
eternity. We were drawing nigh to, and gazing at,
a bit of the everlasting.    Before us was the work of THE GREAT GLACIER.
ages. Here the centuries had stopped. Between these
monstrous mountains, Time had come to a full halt
powerless to go one foot farther. Here before us,
with folded wings, white-faced, hoary-headed, his
scythe held in his stiffened hands, we saw him stand, a
statue of ice.
" Older than Rome, older than Egypt, older than
Man ! " murmured the Judge solemnly, as he gazed.
In front of the Glacier was a great round wall of sand,
of cobbles, of bowlders. Its pressure drove downward
to the bed rock of the world, and ploughed the surface
" This plough ploughs slowly, but it ploughs deep,"
remarked Colonel Goffe, as he ran his eye along the
huge ridge.
said the Judge.
i Think who steadies it!
The sun sank from sight behind the western ridge.
The gray shaft of Sir Donald flushed, reddened, then
blazed as with fire.
From amid the dark firs above us Night softly shook
her raven plumage, and feathered us with gloom.
Then she spread her sable wings. She soared upward,
and the world darkened. Anon she sailed, a vast formation of blackness above the peaks. The skies saw
her coming and welcomed her with every window
lighted. The Indian myth was realized. The Raven
brooded the world.
But the  great Glacier amid the gloom still showed
© ©
whitely. From between the pillars of darkness, from
the cavernous blackness of night, it looked forth like
the face of a dead man from the mouth of a grave. 270
I Older than Night, and hence stronger ! " whispered
the Judge.
Thus we four sat in the darkness watching and pondering, while through the gloom and the stillness the
glacial torrent at our feet tore its line of hoarse noise.
I See ! " I exclaimed. | The Glacier is growing
whiter. Its paleness begins to brighten. Look!
There is a gleam in that upper crevice ! And see — see
that flash of white ! "
I The moon ! The moon ! " cried the Judge. " The
moon is rising. Now we shall see the spectacle of a
Excuse me, reader, I cannot write it down. I know
the limitation of letters. Even could I tint them with
all the colors of the palette, it were in vain. Imagine
our position, standing in that gorge, deep, deep down
at the very roots of those monstrous mountains, within
the inclosure of their awful environment; the stillness,
which the roar of the torrent divided, but did not disturb ; the whole world black with the blackness of
night when it smothers the woods out of sight of the
eye; the great Glacier in front of us, vast, monstrous,
formless, as it lay dimly outlined in the gloom; then
imagine it growing, growing, growing upon the sight.
See it brighten and widen out into view.
See the gleams begin to run over it. See that flash
of white fire strike the crest and run crinkling along-
the lofty ridge until it connects the two opposite peaks
with a line of living light.
See the crevices gleam and glisten brighter and
brighter.    Behold the sparkles and flashes of fire start  4R
up here and there, at random, flash, shift and fade, and
then, as the rounded orb, vast of size, intense, rose majestically above the summit and looked calmly, and, as
it  seemed,   admiringly
down upon it, behold,
in   your   imagination,
what   we   saw, — the
monstrous    mountains
darkly forested round
about us, between which, wide as a landscape, lay the
great Glacier, bathed in soft white radiance from side
to side, from base to summit, and above it the dome
of the sky, and suspended from it the round moon!
" Day unto day uttereth speech, and night unto
night showeth knowledge," said the Judge reverently,
and we turned slowly from the sublime spectacle before
us, and started to pick our way carefully down the
We had seen the Glacier !    It was enough. CHAPTER XIV.
" We are not ourselves,
When nature, being oppressed, commands the mind
To suffer with the body."
E who attempts to describe in words
this majestic exhibition of nature, ad-
Pi vertises his ignorance of the limitation
of letters and his lack of artistic discernment. Even the tongue of Pericles, with its perfect command of the
Grecian vocabulary, would have faltered and grown
dumb had he stood where we stand, and attempted to
describe what we see." THE HERMIT OF FRASER CANON.
It was the Judge who spoke, as we stood grouped at
a point midway between the extremities of the Great
| Nevertheless, there are those who expect me to do
it," I remarked, " and will hold me at fault if I fail."
1 Never you mind that," responded the Judge, speaking with emphatic earnestness. " Be true to your
knowledge of language and your own sense of the fit
and the modest. Here is a work of God whose wild-
ness and awful sublimity is not only beyond verbal
description, but so far beyond it that only scribblers
would attempt it. Here is one of the rare exhibitions
of the world. Niagara matches it in nature. The
Halls of Karnac and the Great Pyramid are to be
classed with it among the works of men. I have
walked through the one, and camped a week at the
base of the other. This exhibition makes me hold my
breath. If the world would learn what is here, let them
come and see it. How can you describe that mad
turmoil of water ? How picture, with your pen, this
awful environment of mountains ? Can you portray
this terrible gloom, or put upon your pages that far-off
gleam of ice on those summits, or send through the
leaves of your book the hoarse roar of yonder whirling, thundering flood ? Let your artist attempt it if
he must. His failure will demonstrate the powerless-
ness of the pen. Victor Hugo himself would close his
note-book were he here. Lay down your portfolio,
and we will sit on this rock, and see the day shrink out
of this fearful gorge, and the night push her black
columns into it." 276 DAYLIGHT LAND.
We four were together.    We had left the car at
ii cm
as we sat on the ledge,
©     7
Yale, and followed
the old government road up the
canon. The day
was warm, and we
had decided to
camp one night
beside the terrible
river which flows
wide and deep,
swift and strong,
with rush and hiss
and roar as of
thunder, between
the cliffs which
lift their ridges to
the stars.
"Had   the  old
Greeks    known
this,"   said   the
Judge,  senten-
gazing at the mad EAGLE   PEAK. efl THE HERMIT OF FRASER CANON. 279
river, —" they would have made it the entrance to
Hades. Here is such a Styx and Acheron as they
never dreamed of."
" Charon could never have ferried a stream like
that," I said, pointing to the whnfing water below.
" They would have made him go with the current,"
responded the Judge. " Down with the current that
old freighter of souls would have gone, — down between those ledges and through those ghastly heaps of
foam, out of sight, with his pale passengers, forever
and ever."
Nothing beyond this for a long time was said. We
sat in silence, — we four, — all eyes, all ears, all feeling. We heard the roar of the river rise mightily and
hoarsely up between the cliffs. It was that of a lion
sounding in the solitude of the desert or amid the
ruins of a tenantless city half buried in desert sand.
We saw the light shrink and fade from the gorge as
© ©        ©
that of life shrinks and fades from the glassing eyes of
the dying. We saw the day, pallid with fear, climb
the cliffs, as if stricken with terror at the growing
gloom below, frantic to reach their tops and rush with
headlong haste after the declining sun.    We watched
© ©
the gloom spread over the river, and the white of its
rage flash fitfully through it as it deepened. We saw
the darkness gather and grow dense along the great
forested slopes above, and sway out, like black fog,
from either side of the chasm, until it met the middle
air. And then through the smother of gloom we saw
the heavens make revelation of glorious globes, of
flashing orbs and shining worlds, — proof that above 280
and beyond this awful gorge, this chasm of Chaos,
this cave of Night, the universe of law and light still
held its brilliant course and kept its benignant movements wheeling steadily on.
" I trust," said Mr. Pepperell, as he arose from the
rock, " that I am not unmindful of these august surroundings, and I shrink from rudely disturbing your
reflections, but I confess that I am as hungry as a
bear, and if Colonel Goffe wilL help me find some
cones I will start a fire, and we will see what we have
in the hamper for supper."
What a repast we four old campers had that night!
Our fire was kindled on a wide, flat ledge, which projected slightly over the river. Above us, two giant
firs rose loftily. Below us, the river seethed and
flashed. Across the whirling current our campfire
built its sliifting, tremulous shaft of red blood color.
We broiled a ten-pound salmon which an Indian
had speared for us, as we strolled up the road that
afternoon. Our provisions were ample, and we feasted
our hunger full. And when the meal was made we
sat and fed the fire with fresh cones and sticks, and
talked, — talked gravely, as men of sense so circumstanced might.
" I met with a strange experience here a year ago,"
said Mr. Pepperell, suddenly, " and one of my motives
for taking this journey was to visit this canon and this
very spot where we are. As strange an experience as
ever befell a man," he added musingly.
© «/
" Tell us of it," cried the Judge, earnestly; " tell us
your tale of the canon.    We did not visit this awful THE HERMIT OF FRASER CANON
gorge to sleep, but to see, listen, and feel; and a
strange tale told at midnight, amid these surroundings,
would be most apropos indeed."
" It is not so much a story as an experience," replied
Mr. Pepperell, " strange and wild enough to suit this
spot and hour, and which you can all share with me if
you choose. It will be an encore to me, but a novelty
to you."
" What do you mean ? " interrogated the Judge, in
a surprised tone.    " I don't understand you, sir."
In place of direct reply, Mr. Pepperell said : —
" Do you know, Colonel Goffe, that you are sitting
on as strange a tablet as the hand of man ever traced
before he died, to trouble the world after he died ? "
" Jupiter Crickets ! " cried the Colonel, as he jumped
to his feet, " what do you mean, Mr. Pepperell ? "
" I will show you what I mean," he replied. " And
I will show you what I found here a year ago. Yes,
we will go through the same experience together that
I went through alone, and you shall tell me what you
think of it; whether he was mad, and how he died,
and where he lies buried? "
" Of whom are you talking," cried the Judge, excitedly, for the suddenness with which Colonel Goffe
had risen and Mr. Pepperell's mysterious words had
excited all of us. " Man alive ! of whom are you talk-
mg c
" Of the Hermit of Fraser Canon," responded Mr.
Pepperell; " that is what I call him, because that is
what he calls himself. Look here," and he began to
brush the leaves and moss from the stone upon which 282
Colonel Goffe had been sitting, " what do you make of
that ? You are a trailer," and he looked up at me.
I Can you translate that sign ? ': And behold, as we
looked, we saw chiseled into the ledge the following
symbols and figures.
" Easily enough," I responded, as my eye caught
the tracing clearly in the light of a torch I held over
it. " It means, go one hundred and fifty feet in a
straight line from this spot towards yonder cliff. Then
two hundred feet at nearly right angles to the left;
then eighty feet obliquely, and you will come to a
cabin. The curved lines are only intended to deceive
and bewilder. He converted his straight lines into a
labyrinth to deceive."
I Well done," exclaimed Mr. Pepperell, " you have
read at sight what it took me a week to decipher.    By THE HERMIT OF FRASER CANON.
chance I built my fire here, and in the fight of it I saw
that rude tracing in the ledge. It puzzled me. It
tormented me. It threw me into a fever of curiosity.
I studied it for days and nights, and at last I got the
cue. Gentlemen, we will now do what I did one night,
last year. I want you to see this \ cabin ' and what
is in it.    Will you come ? "
I Certainly," I answered. 1 But, Mr. Pepperell," I
continued, a year brings avalanches in this country,
and I warrant your I cabin' won't look as when you
saw it."
a The cabin which that l C' stands for was built by
a Builder whose buildings never fall. Judge, take those
two candles. Colonel Goffe, you carry the lantern.
Mr. Murray, you and I will take a torch. Here, let me
go ahead.    I have measured this line before."    And
with this he started carefulLy on, we following.
Slowly, with the aid of our lighted torches, we worked
our way toward the cliff for the one hundred and fifty
allotted feet. Then Mr. Pepperell ran the line two
hundred feet to the left. His memory had evidently
retained a vivid remembrance of the trail, for he
hesitated at no point of it. At the end of the two
hundred feet he turned obliquely to the left, and the
eighty feet brought us to the very front of the gigantic
I Where is your cabin ? " I cried exultantly, not
doubting but that a snow slide had swept it into the
" Where is the   cabin that the  ■ C'  stands
for on the diagram, Mr. Pepperell ? |
"Here it is," he responded promptly.
" Look! 284
and he lifted his torch to the face of the cliff and, lo !
there, painted on the front of the rock was a letter
" C " !
An exclamation escaped us as we crowded close up
to the ledge to inspect it.
It was a monstrous letter, at least three feet in its
perpendicular length and fully two feet across. It
was painted in some gray mixture which nearly matched
the color of the rock, and was not discernable save upon
close inspection. It was enlarged at the back of it,
and united at the curved extremities so that it rudely
resembled the shell of a clam even as our artist has
drawn it.
I What in the world does this mean, sir ? | I exclaimed, looking at Mr. Pepperell.
His response to this interrogation was singularly direct and instructive. He took a chisel-shaped instrument from one pocket, and a hammer from another,
and placing the edge of the sharp steel at the central
point of the letter, where the fines connected the extremities, struck it sharply with the hammer, and a section of the rock coincident with the painted form of
the letter stirred, and we saw that it was only a cunningly devised door fitted to an aperture in the ledge.
I Great heavens ! " I cried, " the C of the diagram
by the river does not mean cabin at all, but a cave ! "
" Precisely," returned Mr. Pepperell complacently.
" It took me a long time, but I guessed the trick at
last. Gentlemen, will you enter the hermit's cave ? "
And he stepped through the strange door while we
The sensation we experienced as we passed through
that strangely-contrived entrance and stood in the mysterious apartment can better be imagined than described.    We were too astonished at what we saw to
say a word. We stood and gazed in silent amazement
at what we beheld revealed by the light of lantern,
candle, and torch.
The cave was of large size, larger than an ordinary
chamber.    In the centre stood  a table strongly con- 286
structed, the legs of which were grotesquely carved.
Skill, patience, and artistic cleverness had wrought out
its strange and ludicrous designs.    On the smooth sur-
© o
face of it a clown's head was curiously traced, the
face of which was indescribably humorous. It was
Mirth's own countenance in the act of laughing. The
wall of one side was literally covered with portraits of
men, animals, and strange pictures born of mad conceit. Here a death's head grinned at us. Below it
a culprit was hanging from the gallows-bar, the face
brutal, contorted, and the dangling body horribly
flexed, — a dreadful bit of realistic work to haunt the
memory and terrify sleep. In juxtaposition to it was a
foundering ship, in the act of going down, the stern
already under water, the prow lifted, and men clinging
to the rigging.
©©       ©
" This is horrible
" The man was mj
said the Judge as he stood gaz-
© ©
| Perhaps," answered Mr. Pepperell. I But look on
this side. Hold up your fights, all of you. I want
you to get the full effect."
We turned with hands uplifted, holding the lights
A canvas. And on the canvas the portrait of a
woman. A woman in the full bloom of her loveliness.
A brunette. The " Queen of the Creoles " she might
have been when living, so rich, so ripe, so perfect was
she. A vision of female possibility such as floats in
the air before the eyes of the opium eater, as he lies
half asleep in his sensuous heaven. Her head was
small, shapely, and crowned with braids of glossy black-
ness. Her eyes were large, long, softly black, like the
star-lighted dusk of a tropical night. Her lips were
full, curved, slightly parted. The rounded neck and
shoulders were modestly revealed, and the bare, perfectly modeled arms were lifted as to a loved one coming to their embrace. The face was full of fire, of passion, of expectancy. But, oh, horrible, horrible sight!
A dagger was driven to its hilt in her breast!
" My God ! " exclaimed the Judge. " This is too
dreadful! " and he turned his back to the picture shud-
"What do you make of it? " I asked, as I turned
away from the same impulse. " Judge, what do you
make of it ? "
" Make of it ?" he responded. " It is perfectly
clear that that lovely woman was his wife, his love, or
his mistress, and she was murdered in the very act of
embracing him, and his awful punishment or fate drove
him mad. This cave of his is an artistic bedlam, a
mad painter's hell."
" I think," said Colonel Goffe, " he murdered her
himself. He caught her in the act of unfaithfulness,
and his hand drove that dagger home. The remembrance of it made him mad."
" Gentlemen," said Mr. Pepperell, " seat yourselves
around this table. I wish to show you something. I
spent a night in this cave, and I discovered some of its
" Why did you not stay and find them all out ? "
I asked.    " You certainly had made a good start."
" Simply because I was afraid to stay longer — afraid 288 DAYLIGHT LAND.
I should go mad myself if I did," he answered.  | Look
at this," and pressing  his finger on
© ©
the table, the
clown's head flew
up and underneath-
it was a recess and
in the recess was
a package of manuscript.
"Readthis," he
said, and drawing
leaf of the manuscript, he handed it to me.
was  a beautiful bit  of artistic embellishment. THE HERMIT OF FRASER CANON.
The text was delicately printed. Each capital letter
was ornamented with some lovely or quaint device,
while around the sheet was a border of vines and
flowers beautifully executed. It was a metrical composition.    Here it is : —
I passed the gates of Death, and in the light
I looked to see those whom I thought to meet.
But none were there.    I knew no Ansrel face.
They who had gone before, yea even those
Who with love's dread of parting from the loved
Were torn from out  my arms, had  found new  loves,
And now were fixed forever in new lives.
They had forgotten me.    And there I stood
At Heaven's gate, and saw that I must take
The old search up to find some faithful one
To serve and love me as I had been loved.
I could not do it.    Nay, I was too faint,
Too tired, from the old seeking, out of which
I had just come.    I turned, and from the gate
Called Beautiful I downward went unto
Those other gates, within which lies a land
All cold and dim, to which those go at wish
Who have lost all, and find — forgetfulness.
Into this land, cold, dim, and dark, I went,
That being thus forgot I might forget.
I That's a strange thing," said the Judge.
i Here's another," remarked Mr. Pepperell, and he
handed me the second sheet. " Read that." I did as
requested, and read: —
m«n« ri
Beyond the glorious gates I met a soul
That on the earth had been betrothed to me.
She loved me with the love of time and sense,
The love which women give to mortal men,
And out of which come births, and later, graves.
In joy I ran to her with arms outstretched —
Outstretched to fold her in my fond embrace,
And with warm lips press kisses on her mouth
As I had done in the dear days below.
But she with startled eyes stared full at me,
And speechless stood, as if struck dumb with fright
At sight so strange she knew not what it meant.
I spoke her name.    That name which was to me
As sweet as cry of new-born babe to her
Who in her pain hears that sure sign of life,
And panting feels the joy of motherhood.
But she stood coldly still, nor gave a sign
That she remembered either name or me.
A new name had been given her above.
In death she lost one life, another found,
And what she found was not as what she lost.
She knew not me nor any thing that was.
And so I turned and gladly journeyed down
To earth and human life and its warm loves.
" This is uncanny business, this reading a dead
man's private papers without legal permission," remarked the Judge, after we had sat in silence a moment.    & I feel as if I were one of a party engaged in
robbing a grave.'
I Here it is ! here it is! " suddenly exclaimed Mr.
Pepperell, as he lifted a small package neatly folded
from the bottom of the recess. " Read this, Mr. Murray, and then I will show you something that will
startle you," and he passed a portion of the package
over to me.
I took it from his hand, and, smoothing it out carefully on the table, proceeded to read the following
strange communication.
The Last Will and Testament
one  whose  name  is  hidden, who  alone  knows
himself, and who is known only
unto God
The Hermit of Fraser Canon.
" The proof of it is on these walls. What drove me
mad is also on these walls. I killp.fl her. Guilt is on
us both. Her portrait. Love. Conscience. Here
have I lived eighteen hundred years with her in torment. The ecstasies of heaven and the agonies of hell
have been mine.    Ha! ha! ha ! ha!
" Yes. I am mad, but I am cunning. My mind
never stops. It spins like a buzz-wheel. I have more
than mortal power. I can live without food. I have
clairvoyant sight.    I can see the bottom of the Fraser.
J ©
It is solid gold.    I can hear through a mountain.
II leave my body and visit worlds. I come back and
enter it again.    I can become incorporeal at will.    I 292
am an unit of pure consciousness, a receptive essence,
an atom of universal apprehension.    Amen.
" Let him who would know a mystery read. Let him
who would solve it obey. Let him who dare, put his
ear to the breast of the woman and listen."
I Judge Doe," said Mr. Pepperell, " go to the canvas. Put your ear to it and listen. What do you
hear ? "
I Water," answered the Judge in astonishment.
1 The sound of running water as it plunges over a distant fall and pours softly down among stones," and he
returned to his seat on the bench.
I read on.
" Have you listened ? Has the heart of the mountain told you its secret ? Have you heard the river
that pours from under the Glacier ? Do you know
that its sands are pure gold ; that all the gold in the
Fraser comes down that stream ? I have seen. I have
digged my grave on its bank. I shall sleep, when I
die, in a chamber of gold. He who finds me might
purchase the world. He will have all that man craves
but one thing.    He will not have love.    Hue ! hue !
"' He is mad,' | you who read say. So I am. I know
it.    But I am cunning.   The hidden I found, and what
© 7
I found I have hidden. I mock you. I laugh from
where I am hidden. My eyes are on you. I am near,
a foot away, a yard distant, a span off. Why don't
you find me ? I am grinning at you at this moment.
" This is the raving of madness," I exclaimed. " I
will read no more of the trash," and I threw the sheet
on the table.
"Read to the end," cried Mr. Pepperell. "Read
to the end of it, then I will show you something."
Thus urged I read on.
"Are you wise? Are you brave? Are you cunning? Can you read a riddle that is plain? Then
read the riddle that I write on the page that comes
"Make of it? Nothing," I answered.    "The man
"Here it is," cried Mr. Pepperell. "Here is the
page that comes next, and on it the madman's riddle.
Who can read it? "
A white sheet of paper, blankly white, that was all!
" What can you make of it ? " It was Mr. Pepperell that put the question.
was mad."
" Wait a moment," he said. " Now look! " and lifting the blank sheet he held one of the candles under
it a moment, and out of the white blankness started
this sentence in letters red as blood.
" He who calls these letters forth calls me from
my grave !    I am here with you ! "
And he dropped the sheet, across whose white surface stretched the red lines, upon the table.
We were on our feet like a flash — we three who
had been sitting — on our feet, staring at the red letters, and at Mr. Pepperell, and at each other. I!
" Gentlemen," he said, " I got thus far a year ago
and stopped. I was alone, remember, and I went out
of this cave like a scared boy. But I am not alone tonight, and I stay it through, whether living or dead
come.     Wait! "
Was it a sound? Yes. It was a sound. The
sound of one moving. Or was it the wind outside ?
Which? We held our breaths, listening. My heart
sounded, as it beat in my breast, like a bell.
I The canvas ! the canvas ! The woman is moving from the wall," whispered the Judge hoarsely,
and his face whitened to the color of chalk.
I This is nonsense," I said, pullhig myself together
stoutly, but my veins shriveled horribly, and the roots
of my hair prickled in my scalp. " This is nonsense.
It was the wind that did it," and I took a quick step
forward and plucked the canvas with a jerk from the
i My God ! " It was the Judge's voice, and I heard
him drop heavily on to the bench.
Back of the canvas stood a man ! The madman
himself ! He was grinning insanely at us. And then,
with a yell, he jumped full at me.
The table was overturned and every light extinguished.
We were not cowards, nor were we proof against
such a shock. We acted, I presume, as any four men
would naturally act whose senses had been thus suddenly and frightfully assaulted. We probably all
yelled — I don't know — I know I did, as I jumped
backward. "M
No man living could have stood unmoved such a
revelation as the fall of that canvas made. The first
thought that came to me, in the recoil of feeling and
resultant return of sense, was for light. I felt for my
matches and struck one mechanically. Mr. Pepperell
kindled a fusee at the same instant. We lighted the
candles, then the lantern, and for a moment stood looking at each other.
" See! " said Mr. Pepperell, as he pointed at the
hole in the wall where the canvas had hung.    It was
an aperture in the side of the cavern; a large, oblong
crevice in the cliff; the entrance to an interior passage
which led deeper into the mountain.
" The riddle is solved any way, Mr. Pepperell," I
said. " It was no ghost, but a man. He slipped as he
jumped at me and struck the floor like a good solid
human being.
See.    There is blood on the leg of the
table. He hit it head on. The Hermit of Fraser
Canon is not dead. He is some escaped maniac.
There is neither truth nor reason in his words or acts.
That portrait is a lie. I don't believe he ever killed a
woman or knew one that was killed. It is all a mad
fancy of his, an insane delusion. What do you say,
Colonel Goffe ? "
"I — I don't believe he ever saw a woman in his
life," said the Man from New Hampshire, dryly.
Strange that a single sentence neither wise nor very
witty could affect us so happily, but that light remark
of the Colonel acted as a sedative to our excited nerves.
It brought us to our senses and normal condition.
We were all ourselves again. 296
" Come," said the Judge. " Take the papers, Mr.
Murray, and let us get out of this. Now that we
know what this hole in the mountain is, I feel as if I
were in the cell of some lunatic asylum. I will roll up
the canvas and bring it along. It may help us discover who he is, or where his friends are. We must
find the poor fellow if we rally the country and hunt
him a month. It is plainly a case of insanity. He is
a scholar and an artist, but overwork or some accident
has driven him mad. It is a pity that the blow he received when he fell did n't stun him. It would have
saved us much searching."
We did as the Judge suggested, and left the cave
much relieved in our feelings and well content with the
outcome of our strange adventure. But we had not
come to the end of it.    It was to be a night of sur-
prises in fact, and the biggest, one yet awaited us. For,
as we drew near the flat ledge by the river, our camp-
fire was burning brightly and a man was sitting by it
bathing his face in some water.
It was the madman of the cave !
" Gentlemen," he said, addressing us as we approached, " I am an artist. I was sketching the Canon
by moonlight, and slipping, fell from a ledge. I got
here with great difficulty. I do not remember how,
for I struck my head against a sharp rock as I fell, and
was partially stunned. I saw your camp-fire and
crawled to it, and have taken the liberty of using one
of your napkins to free my face from blood." This
was spoken in a feeble voice, but accurately and rationally, and we instantly realized that the blow he had THE HERMIT OF FRASER CANON.
received on his head as he jumped from the wall in
the cave had restored him the use of his faculties, but
left the time between his accident and his recovery a
" I am something of a surgeon," I said pleasantly,
" and with your permission I will assist you to dress
your wound," and I stepped to his side.
" You are very kind," he returned feebly, " very kind.
I am grateful to God that the accident happened where
it did, so near your camp, for I am feeling very weak,
and I could not have crawled far. It was very foolish
of me to spend a night alone in this Gorge, but its sublimities attracted me irresistibly. I feel it is destined
to be noted the world over and I longed to be the first
to put on canvas a moonlight and sunrise view of it.
If this blow should prove serious," he continued more
feebly, looking up into my face as I was carefully removing the hair from the edges of the gash, "my
studio is in New Orleans. I have no relatives in this
country but my betrothed," and here a slight flush came
to his face. " My betrothed is a lady of that city, a
Miss De Fontaine " —
I He has fainted," I said quietly. " Colonel Goffe,
pour me a spoonful from your brandy flask."
r^j^-rs..S'--£.^-zr^-±--zL'-~ --■•.^~'~^-'_ ~^_z fowategSSJ&SBrgr^ —^5
" The wealth of ■waters.'
E were all anglers, and our journey
through British Columbia from the
Shuswap Lake region to Vancouver
was full of the keenest interest to us.
We crossed the Columbia three hundred and seventy miles from Vancouver and entered Eagle Pass, which opens a way
through the Gold Range, amid magnificent scenery.
The valley is crowded with forest trees of giant size
and of many varieties, which enrich the landscape with
a splended arboreous appearance. The train rolls past
lovely lakes, whose limpid waters stretch from base to
base of the opposite mountains, and suggest to the FISH AND FISHING IN BRITISH COLUMBIA.     299
tourist the beautiful lochs of Scotland. Beyond, are
the great Shuswap Lakes, to which sportsmen from all
parts of the continent are destined to come. At Sica-
mous, hunting parties can find accommodation and
make their arrangements to enjoy the sport easily accessible from it as a starting point. The northward-
going trails will conduct them to the caribou grounds,
and to the south deer are found in abundance. Geese
and ducks in their season abound in these lakes, whose
great extent, beautiful shores, and accessibility commend them to the great fraternity of rod and gun.
These bodies of inland water are fed by torrents and
mountain streams, but are themselves tranquil, spreading placid reaches of great extent between the
surrounding hills.    Hundreds  of miles of   delightful
O ©
boating can be found on these sheets of water, and the
region around them is sufficiently settled and cultivated
to easily furnish supplies. But the vast region around
about these lakes is wholly unexplored or essentially so,
and he who loves adventure in an unknown country
can be accommodated to any extent. I hope these
words will prompt many young and vigorous sportsmen
to visit this charming and most attractive section of the
continent, now made so easy of approach to them, and
that from them I may, with all who love the outdoor
life, receive spirited descriptions of this now almost
wholly unvisited region.
The fish supply in the rivers and the coast waters of
British Columbia is simply beyond estimate. No one
who has not visited the country and seen with his own
eyes  can credit the most conservative statement of it.
■mimm 300
In the Fraser River the tourist beholds a phenomenal
condition to which there is no parallel in any other
section of the continent or in any other land. Only
in the Columbia River does the Fraser find a rival.
Five species of salmon frequent this river, and in incredible numbers. In many of the tributaries of it
they literally pack the water solid from bank to bank. FISH AND FISHING IN BRITISH COLUMBIA.   301
The pools resembled purse nets when filled to the
floats. In the Canon of the Fraser in summer months
millions of these fish can be seen from the car windows,
packed into the eddies of the torrent stream or resting
in the lee of rocks and projections, gathering strength
for another rush upward through the tremulous water.
It is a novel and picturesque sight for the tourist
to gaze at. All along the banks, and on the projecting rocks stands the Indian, spear in hand; he suddenly rises to his full height, his sinewy arms, bared
to the shoulder, gleaming in the sun, and from his
nervous grasp is launched his salmon spear. Well
aimed, surely sent! A struggle, a splashing, and a glistening fish is lifted from the water and lies, silvery
white, on the brown ledge at the spearman's feet.
First of all in the spring comes up the silver salmon,
a beautiful fish to look upon and often of magnificent
size, varying from five to seventy pounds. Their run
begins in March and  lasts until  the  last   of  June.
Then come a small species, but greatly prized, averaging about five pounds in weight. Their flesh is
brightly pink. This is the kind that is most sought
for canning purposes. They run from June until
August. Next in order is an excellent variety, much
esteemed, averaging some seven pounds in weight.
Then comes an anomaly among salmon, the " noan "
or " humpbacked," whose run lasts from August into
whiter, but which visits the river but once in two
years! And last of all, in September the " hook-
bill " appears, a fish that weighs as high as twenty-five
pounds, and disappears at Christmas.    Such is the list
of the Fraser River salmon and their characteristics,
and no party of ladies and gentlemen
could have a more
novel and enjoyable
I experience than they
might obtain by
camping a week or a month near the Great Canon of
the Fraser River at Yale, in the months of July, August, and September, when the gold seekers are wash- FISH AND FISHING IN BRITISH COLUMBIA.     303
ing the sand on the bars, and the Indians are spearing
salmon in the whirlpools and rapids of the Canon. If
a party camped amid such scenery and novel surroundings did not find rare enjoyment, it would be because
of something inherently depraved or cross-grained in
their constitutions. I speak with deliberation when I
say that I know not one locality on the continent I
would so quickly select for a party of intelligent and
congenial people to camp a few weeks as the Canon of
the Fraser. It is the one spot of all others for the
amateur photographer and the artist to visit, and it
would be a real benefit to the lovers of nature in its
sublime and strange aspects to have put within their
reach pictorial presentations of this awful chasm.
In addition to the salmon, the fresh-water streams
and lakes abound with game fish. Whitefish, salmon
trout, brook trout, and big lake trout are found in
abundance everywhere. A rodsman can find prime
sport wherever he goes through the province, whether
among the inland lakes and rivers or along the coast
waters. There is no other stretch of coast on the
globe along which, and in the rivers flowing into it, so
many varieties of edible fish are caught as off the
shore and in the streams of British Columbia. Beside
the salmon and trout are the halibut, the cod, the
mackerel, the haddock, the rock cod, the flounders,
and that delicious tidbit of marine delicacy, the oola-
han or candle fish. This little fish is of the size of a
sardine and has a flavor peculiarly its own, so piquant
and delicate as to justify its claim of being, par excellence, an epicurean morsel. Prepared for the plate
fresh from the water, it is exceedingly delicious, while
IBS 304
its oil is said to be preferable to cod-liver oil for medicinal purposes. These fish are supposed to come from
far northern waters, and they come in numberless
quantities. They enter the Fraser about the first of
May, and swarm up its current as bees swarm in a
hive. The herrings of the coast are equally numberless. These are somewhat smaller than those found
along the shores of Labrador and the British Isles, but
as food are fully as good as those caught in the waters
of the Atlantic. It is only when one adds to the fish
supply of eastern Canada the even larger one of British Columbia, that the value of the Canadian fisheries
to herself and the world can be realized.
HAT   San   Francisco   was   once, Van
couver is now, — an oak within an
acorn, a vital root well placed, but
only just sprouted; but all the conditions of a great city are here, and here
a great city is to be. Colonel Goffe,
I will buy this corner lot if you will
take the opposite one, or I will toss for the choice.
What say you ? "    It was Mr. Pepperell who spoke.
I Judge, you pitch for us,"  replied the Man from
New Hampshire, laconically.    Up went the cent, and
as it came down and roiled curving through the dust,
\mm 308
the two speculators chased it, laughing like boys, to see
who had won the lot on which we were standing.
" Well, well," exclaimed the Judge, as the two men
scuffled over the penny, " you are genuine Yankees,
and you type both the shrewdness and recklessness of
our countrymen, who buy bits of the continent as
brokers do stocks, and purchase locations as gamblers
do chips. One might fancy that you think you are
standing on the site of a future Chicago by the way
you are acting."
" You old Areopagite," exclaimed Mr. Pepperell, as
he wrestled with the Colonel for the token. " We don't
think any such thing, but we know that fifty thousand
people will have their homes here on this peninsula
within twenty years, and we know that two big buildings will stand on these corner lots inside of a year,
for we will build them ourselves."
" How do you figure that out ? " retorted the Judge.
" This is n't Yankee land, remember, and Canadians
move slowly."
"Judge Doe," responded Mr. Pepperell, as he let
go his hold on the Colonel, and sobered down, " we
have been in this city two days. The Colonel and I
have been canvassing this place, and we have sized up
the outlook to a shaving. The conditions which make
for success are all here. In the first place the men
who have founded this city have the right stuff in
them. There is n't a slow drop of blood in their veins.
They are not a gang of mere speculators. They are
gentlemen of substance and character, and they have
come to stay.    They have put in their money, thou- TOSSING   FOR   CORNER   LOTS.
sands and thousands of it. Look at these solid blocks
of stone and brick, at that opera house, at that hotel
which must have cost nigh on to a quarter of a million ; look at their gas works and water works, their
steam fire-engines, tfieir miles of paved streets and
sidewalks, that magnificent driving park, with its
splendid boulevard clear around it, their boating club
and athletic grounds, those lines of wharves and yonder huge steamships loading and unloading at them.
\Boomers \ and land gamblers don't do such work as
these men have done here. They are Americanized
Canadians, sir, the best city builders on the continent,
for they build with the solidity of the English and the
celerity of the Yankee. Colonel Goffe, you villain
you, which lot am I to take ? If there was the difference of a dollar between them, I would have you up
before the peripatetic court that travels around with
us and compel you to disgorge."
Vancouver — the city, I mean, not the huge island
of that name lying thirty miles out in the Pacific, and
stretching three hundred miles northward like a great
natural breakwater, as it is, along the coast — Vancouver is a city site, literally hewn out of the solid
forest, which, with its gigantic timber trees, makes the
sea front of British Columbia. And what a forest it
is! An Eastern born man knows nothing of it unless
he has crossed the continent and actually seen it, nor
can he conceive of it, for the woods of the East supply
him with no standard of comparison ; even the largest
pines of Michigan give him only a hint of what this
mighty forest of the Pacific coast really is.    The trees 312
stand from two hundred and fifty to three hundred
feet in height, and so densely packed together that
progress among them is absolutely impossible. Large
tracts are actually destitute of game because of the
density of this forest growth. Here is a lumber supply
for the whole world for centuries to come. As a source
of future wealth to the country, its value cannot be
overestimated. The market for this lumber is found
in Japan, in China, in Australia, in San Francisco, in
local development, and in that measureless demand
which the prairies, only five hundred miles to the east,
will make upon it when they are peopled with their
millions, as they soon will be, and cities like Minneapolis and St. Paul and Duluth stand on the great
water-courses which thread the Mackenzie Basin with VANCOUVER.
possibilities of inland commerce, and steel pathways
connect them with Lake Superior, or straight eastward,
south of James's Bay, with the Saguenay, at Chicou-
thni. Place the minerals, the fish, the coal, and the
forests of British Columbia in the one scale, and how
many millions of dollars, do you fancy, you will have
to pile into the opposite scale to bring the bar level?
No intelligent American ever visited this Pacific province of Canada, and saw what it contains, and did not
grind his teeth as he recalled how the miserable, blundering, partisan politics of the Polk regime, lost it to
the Great Republic. Let any statesman who loves his
country and is proud of its vast geographical extent
and future greatness, take a map of the Pacific coast
and see what a gap this one province of the Dominion
riP 314
makes in its western sea line, — longer by far than the
Atlantic coast from the Florida Keys to Cape Breton.
And, verily, what did the Polk administration do to
make amends to the American people for this criminal
blunder ? Had Polk's secretary of state secured British Columbia for us as Seward secured Alaska, — well,
things would now be a good deal different from what
© ©
they are, would n't they ? The Republic has been
taxed pretty heavily to support her petty politicians and
miserable partisan politics, truly.
Out of such a forest, as we said, a site for Vancouver City has been hewn. It cost three hundred
dollars per acre to merely fell and burn the gigantic
growth. When we arrived, only two trees were still
standing, vand they were burning like a blast furnace
inside their hollow trunks. They were nearly three
hundred feet in height and measured between thirty
and forty feet in circumference. For one hundred
and fifty feet they rose like mammoth pillars of wood,
straight as a plumb line, bare of branch or knot. Our
artist sketched them on the spot only an hour before
they fell with a sweep, a rush, and a roar of sound
as if the columns which uphold the sky had slipped
from their bases and a section of heaven had dropped
suddenly — a vast ruin — to the earth. The earth
trembled to the shock of their overthrow, the air
groaned, and as the roar of their fall rolled across the
level water of Burrard's Inlet, through the still air, the
mountains beyond sent back the murmurs of their regret. Alas, that life must forever feed its growth on
death, and human progress advance only over the ruins
of the perfect! CEDAR,   VANCOUVER   PARK:    50   FEET  IN   CIRCUMFERENCE.  ^1
They fell, and the saws went at them.    How their
senseless, hungry, cruel teeth
ate into and destroyed the
majesty of their sublime proportions ! We turned away,
from a sense of pain and
sheer vexation. In the evening the Judge and I crept up
through the debris and heavy
semi-tropical undergrowth to
the crown of the hill on
which they had stood. The
warm evening air was filled
with a ruddy glow, for a
hundred giant stumps were
still feebly gasping forth fire,
lighted   two   resinous
torches and  counted  the
rings  which would give us
© ©
the measure of their age.
" Six hundred and seven-
ty-four years old I " gasped the Judge, and he dropped
his torch to the ground.    " My God ! these trees were 318
older than the landing of Columbus, older than Magna
Charta, older than the first translation of the Bible into
English, and last week they stood with a thousand years
of fife ahead of them, and these men of Vancouver
have levelled them to the earth with as little sense of
what they were doing as the Vandals had when they
overturned the immortal sculptures of Rome, and
trampled the triumphs of art under the hoofs of their
chargers ! It is simply brutal. But the trees will have
long and sure revenge."
" How is that ? " I queried, as I flung my torch away
in rage at what had been done, for I shared the indignation of my companion. " How will these thoughtless people be punished for this wanton deed ? "
I Mr. Murray," cried the Judge in reply, " Boston would give a million of dollars to have two such
trees, growthful and strong with six centuries of growth
and ten centuries of life ahead of them on her Common. What would London give for two such monuments ? What Paris ? Had these Vancouver men had
the reverence or wit to have set apart a space six hundred feet across for a small park on this knoll, — the
very centre and crown of their city, that is to be, —
they would have made it the Mecca of thousands upon
thousands of visitors each year. That railroad there
could have afforded to pay a million of dollars to have
kept these two gigantic trees, these majestic monuments of past centuries, built up from the soil, the air,
and the sunshine, by the Lord, standing here. There
is not a sculpture, shaft, or fresco in Rome, that can
compare with these trees as they stood but yesterday TJ
in their attractiveness to the eyes and the imagination
of men. These trees thus preserved would have made
their city one of the noted cities of the world. Every
pen that came hither would have written of them;
every pencil have sketched them; every brush made
them the foreground of this magnificent view; every
tongue told of them to listening ears far away. The
Bank of England put at their disposal could not buy
for them such an advertisement as these two trees gave
them free of cost. And now they lie in these hot
ashes lost to the world forever, burning as if they were
an offense to the eye, a stench to the senses, a collection of offal. What a pity, what a loss ! Come, let us
get away from this spot. The air is filled with the
reproach of the centuries that look upon their highest
artistic result as despised and rejected of men. I shall
always think of Vancouver as I should of Rome if
St. Peter's were destroyed by a mob."
It was not until we had returned to the hotel, and
the Judge had seated himself at a table in the supper
room, that he regained his wonted spirits. The vast
and elegant hostelry was filled with happy noises, for a
band of stringed instruments was playing and fifty
couples were whirling through the mazes of a waltz,
while the low buzz of conversation in the wide corridors,
and now and then a peal of merry laughter mingled
pleasantly with the strains of music. It was in truth a
bright and animated scene, and one most suggestive
I This is a most astonishing spectacle," remarked
the Judge, as we sat on one of the wide verandas of
©     7
mm 322
the great house, gazing through the wide open windows at the merry dancers whirling around the large
hall within. " Two years ago this city site was covered
with a mighty forest, so dense that even a bear could
scarcely thread a way through it, and now behold what
is here, — blocks of brick and stone, wide streets, pavements echoing to the tread of a thousand feet, gas,
electric lights, green swarded lawns, fountains, flowers,
and a fashionable hop in a hotel that cost a quarter of
a million of money. That train rolling into the depot
yonder has two coaches in it filled with Bostonians.
Massachusetts Bay sends its greeting to Burrard's Inlet.
What would not San Francisco have given for rail connection with the Atlantic, when her census counted
only seven thousand. And what an impetus such a
connection would have given to her development. Mr.
Pepperell, this is an age of enchantment, as you say.
The wand of measureless power is being waved over
this continent, and no man can predict the rate of its
progress in civilization. This in truth is the day when
old men can dream dreams and our young men behold visions. We Americans and our Canadian neighbors must join hands and keep them joined in strong
fraternal clasp. We are brethren. The continent geographically is a unit, and we who shape its development in wealth and population must shape it along the
lines of affectionate union. The Lord of it will smite
us in his wrath if we do otherwise.    The moonlight
on yonder mountains and the music might well keep
us from sleep, but we must start fresh as boys for Victoria to-morrow, and hence the couch must be honored. THE   BALL.  VANCOUVER.
Gentlemen, I wish you good night, restful sleep, and
pleasant dreams." And we strolled away to our rooms.
Dear old, courteous, wise, happy-hearted Judge —
a gentleman, that highest of titles — thy face is a picture which the memory of three men will keep until all
bright pictures fade and all sweet earthly things are
forgotten, if they ever shall be.    Who knows ? ~-^>w*mtm**m£M
HESE are not Indians," said
the Judge, as we stood on the
bridge    at    Victoria,    looking
o o
down   upon   a   dozen   Siwash
canoes filled with their strange
looking  owners.    " These   are
not Indians," he repeated, " they are Mongolians."
" And look at their boats," exclaimed Mr. Pepperell;
" they have n't the least resemblance to a birch-bark
canoe. They suggest the Chinese junks, rather. Observe their length, narrowness, and high, projecting
" Not a bad boat for a heavy sea," I remarked.
" That one putting off from the shore must be forty K
H ell
feet long, and with her twenty paddles, and well steered,
would climb safely over a mighty big sweLl, for she sits
as lightly on the water as if made of bamboo." '
"Look there," cried Mr. Pepperell, pointing to a
boat just coming into sight from under the bridge.
° © O ©
I That is the Medicine Man of the tribe, and his wife."
" Well," said the Colonel, " I am a great admirer of
the ladies, but I must confess that Mrs. Medicine Man
does n't impress me as being a great beauty. What
do you say, Judge ? "
"This is a very strange spectacle," responded the
Judge; " a very strange spectacle, indeed. I have seen
many queer looking people, but I have never seen a
more singular looking folk than these Siwash Indians.
Ethnologically, I don't know where to place them."
It was a strange spectacle in truth. The river was
covered with their long, fight, narrow craft. Some
were shooting rapidly along in straight courses, some
drifting with the tide, others grouped side by side.
The tribe were preparing to move off on a fishing excursion, and the low soft murmur of many voices filled
the air. All was activity, but there was no bustle, no
confusion, no sharp word of command or loud calls.
A pretty sight they made as they moved away, a long
procession of strange looking boats, each tiailing exactly in line of the one ahead of it, the paddles rising
and falling in concert, the blue water beneath them
and their high-colored blankets showing brightly in
the sun.
" Bon voyage ! Bon voyage ! " cried the Judge to
them as the last canoe passed from under the bridge
on which we stood, and glided away. 330
The steersman, an old wrinkled Siwash, who was
standing in the stern of the craft, looked up at the
Judge and smiled ; at least his leathery face was suddenly cut up into wrinkles,  and his toothless gums
showed between his parted lips.
I That was n't a bad grin,
Judge," said the Man from New
Hampshire. " Ethnologically I
should place that old specimen of
Siwash antiquity halfway between
a low-bred Mongolian and a high-
O ©
bred ape.    Darwin should have  come to Victoria for
his I connecting link.'
Victoria is well worth seeing. The tourist can find
entertainment there. He can pick up a quantity of interesting curios and not be swindled in so doing.    We
o o
four spent the day, happy-hearted
as boys in their first journey from
home. Life brings many losses to
us, as we live, but none greater
than the loss of the boyish eye
and heart. He who keeps these,
long after his head is white, has
prolonged the finest pleasures of
life. What a day we four gray-
headed boys had at this most western city of our race,
thrust out from the continent like a picket in front of
an encamped army.
We visited the fish market and saw how royally the
city was fed by the sea, — salmon, trout, halibut, haddock, cod, the delicious oolahan or candle fish, and a
dozen sorts, some of them new to us. In one market
we found a huge octopus or devil-fish suspended for
advertisement, a ghastly creature, with tentacled arms
nine feet in stretch. The Italians and Chinese eat
them. And the marketman assured us that 1 octopus
steak was n't bad eating."
I Let me get out of this place,"
cried the Judge, shudderingly,
I or I shall not eat a mouthful of
dinner to-day."
I That devil-fish," said the Man
from New Hampshire, " does make
a man feel a little creepy inside,
does n't it, Judge ? "
We visited stores where furs and skins are bought
of the Indians, and the warehouses where they are
packed.    What  a collection of furs we   saw!    And
there all, save one of us, saw for
the first time that finest, rarest
fur of the. world, the magnificent
sea otter.    Did you ever see one,
No ? What pleasure
you have awaiting you ahead.
Wait until your white fingers can
feel their way through the fur of
a sea otter ! Ah, me, beaver will
never content you after that. We
visited all the pawnshops, and in them discovered many
curious bits brought from the four corners of the earth,
— Japan, China, Australia, New Zealand, the two Indies, the Arctic Ocean, Mexico, and Palestine, all had
a 332
contributed to the unique collections. Strange pipes,
antique arms, nuggets of gold, pearls, rude coins, Indian armor deftly quilted.    Grotesque masks, flaming
head-dresses, and skins from every furred animal of the
continent. In one shop we were shown an Oriental
ruby, the iridescent splendors of which were beyond
all conception. THE PARTING.
" A stone," said the Judge, " to be set in the gate
of heaven."    That describes it.
Then there were specimens of Indian workmanship,
carved plates and salvers of jet black stone, valued at
a hundred dollars each; birds and fish and national
banners fashioned in pure gold, exquisitely wrought;
baskets, woven from the fibres of roots, in which water
can be boiled; juvenile toys in wicker in loveliest of
colors; bows and arrows from polished bone, tipped
with stone or steel, dipped in deadliest poisons ; gambling sticks and conjurers' robes, and a hundred and
one odd things, novel and most instructive to civilized
people, — how much we saw and how much we enjoyed
it all.    What a day we four tourists had at Victoria !
Thus pleasantly passed the day, and pleasantly it
drew to its close. We were standing on the battery
south of the city, as it declined. In front of us the
water stretched away, level as a floor, — a wide emerald plain with the shifting colors of sunset playing
over it, coming and going, deepening and fading. To
the east and south we saw the snowy peak of Mount
Baker. To the west the red sun was going slowly
downward, carrying all its splendors into the great
ocean whose farther waves were rolling in white far up
on orient beaches. We had come to the end of our
journey. It had been, as the Judge had predicted at
the start, a happy one to us all, and with happy hearts
we were ready to turn our faces toward our distant
homes. What a revelation it had been to us! The
Judge was to take boat to the Golden Gate, and we
escorted him on board, anxious to be with one whose
mi 334
intelligence and urbanity had ministered so much to
our entertainment as we journeyed, to the last moment.
"Gentlemen," said the Judge, "this winter you
must all come to San Francisco, and be my guests; we
will do California, Mexico, and Arizona, together. Next
summer, Mr. Pepperell, you shall be our host for a
week, and we will eat beans with you at the Somerset
Club. By that time we can buy tickets through to
Yokohama and Hong Kong, and see the West and the
East, both hemispheres, and the youngest and oldest
civilization in the world side by side in one trip. Such
opportunities of pleasure and profit mankind have
never enjoyed before since the race was born. What
say you, gentlemen, shall we go over and see the land
of the Celestials next summer ? "
I Judge Doe," answered Colonel Goffe, " when the
golden sands of California call, the rich soil of New
Hampshire will respond. I will buy a railroad ticket
to any spot in this world, or the next, you may suggest,
provided it gives me your company.    Only let us have THE   PARTING.  THE PARTING.
Jack Osgood along with us, for he and I are bound to
pick up a little paying investment, occasionally, wherever we go, unless different arrangements prevail there
from what we have in New Hampshire," and then,
lifting his beaver, the tall, gray-headed Yankee, born
trader and traveller, type of that energy and courage
which have threaded their strength and color into the
warp and woof of the continent, and whose shrewd
remarks and quaint, rippling humor had been half the
life of the party, led us off in that royal old bit of
loving sentiment, —
I Should auld acquaintance be forgot
And never brought to mind ?
Should auld acquaintance be forgot
And days of auld Lang Syne ? "
We sang it bravely, we four gray-headed men, standing on the deck of the steamer with the purple light
of the early gloaming upon us. Nor did we sing it far
as a quartette ; for on the deck were other wanderers
like ourselves, far from friends and home, and among
them a group of Scottish immigrants, red-haired, rough-
bearded, and who were as responsive to the first note
of the grand old stave as powder is to the spark, and
whose strong voices, with their broad accent, joined
in with such a rush and roar of sound as the Campbells brought with them when they charged into
At the close ? Well, there were tears in our eyes.
You need n't laugh, young man. Wait till you get
on toward your evening, and know what home, country, 338
and partings mean. You will never laugh then at the
noble moistening of eyes. As I came off the boat I
ran against a big Australian who had just parted at
the gate with his wife.
I Beg pardon," he said, " I did n't see you coming."
" I beg your pardon,"  I returned, " I  did n't see
you either."
Then we looked at each other, and we both saw why
we had not seen ! WORKS BY W. H. H. MURRAY.
The Experiences, Incidents, and Adventures, Humorous and Otherwise, which befell Judge John Doe, Tourist, of San Francisco I
Mr. Cephas Pepperell, Capitalist, of Boston ; Colonel
Goffe, the Man from New Hampshire, and divers
others, in their Parlor-Car Excursion over
Prairie and Mountain ; as recorded and
set forth by W. H. H. Murray.
Superbly illustrated with 150 cuts in various colors by the best artists.
Contents: Introduction — The Meeting—A Breakfast—A Very Hopeful Man — The Big Nepigon Trout — The Man in the Velveteen Jacket — The
Capitalist — Camp at Rush Lake — Big Game — A Strange Midnight Ride —
Banff—Sabbath among the Mountains—Nameless Mountains — The Great
Glacier — The Hermit of Frazer Canon— Fish and Fishing in British Columbia— Vancouver — Parting at Victoria.
8vo, 338 pages.
Unique paper boards, $2.50;
gilt, $4.00.
cloth, $3. to; cloth, full
Mr. Murray has chosen the northwestern side of the continent for
the scene of this book ; a region of country which is little known by the
average reader, but which in its scenery, its game, and its vast material
and undeveloped resources supplies the author with a subject which has
not been trenched upon even by the magazines, and which he has treated
in that lively and spirited manner for which he is especially gifted. The
result is a volume full of novel information of the country, humorous
and pathetic incidents, vivid descriptions of its magnificent scenery,
shrewd forecasts of its future wealth and greatness when developed, illustrated and embellished with such lavishness and artistic elegance as
has never before been attempted in any similar work in this country.
The Critic, in a recent issue, receiving the illustrated edition of Daudet's
" Robert Helmont," says, " We wonder if the time will ever come when the
creations of our own writers will be interpreted with equal sympathy," and, in
view thereof, we would respectfully submit the above book to the critics and
the public at large in evidence that the long-desired time has now arrived.
For other books, see next page. ADIRONDACK  TALES.
Illustrated.   i2mo, 300 pages, $1.25.
Was it Suicide ?
The Gambler's Death.
The Old Beggar's Dog.
The Ball.
Who was he ?
John Norton's Christmas.
Henry Herbert's Thanksgiving.
A Strange Visitor.
Lost in the Woods.
A Jolly Camp.
Comment on these seem almost superfluous, so well are they known
and appreciated. The quaintness and upright sturdiness of John Norton, the weird " Strange Visitor," the solemnity of " The Gambler's
Death " in the very heart of nature, the deep pathos of | The Old
Beggar's Dog," the spontaneous jollity of | The Ball," the mystery of
" Was it Suicide ?" and " Who was he ? " all appeal most powerfully
to our many-facetted nature. And over all, and in all, and through all,
is the charm of Mr. Murray's individuality expressed in his unique
style. Critics have in vain endeavored to define that quality in a book
which renders it appreciated by every reader; we all know that it exists, but it eludes all effort to crystallize it into a phrase.
These stories are full of that subtle charm, and their daily increasing
popularity abundantly testifies to the fact.
Or, Camp Life in the Adirondack^.
By W.  H. H.  MURRAY.
Illustrated.   12 mo, $1.25.
1. The Wilderness.
2. The Nameless Creek.
3. Running the Rapid.
4. The Ball.
5. Loon-Shooting in a Thunder-Storm.
6. Crossing the Carry.
7. Rod and Reel.
8. Phantom Falls.
Jack-Shooting in a Foggy Night.
Sabbath in the Woods.
A Ride with a Mad Horse in a
Freight Car.
This book, originally published twenty years ago, is now republished
in response to repeated general inquiries. Many will, remember its
immense popularity at the time of its first issue, when it practically
directed the attention of the American public to an unknown section
of their country ; and earned for the author the sobriquet of " Adirondack" Murray.
Distinguished as an orator, he then introduced to the reading world
those wonderful gifts of descriptive writing, genuine humor and pathos, and complete sympathy with Nature in her various moods, which
have now become so well known, and this work will ever be found
fresh and breezy, picturesque and amusing, besides being one of the
best guide-books extant to the wonderful and beautiful region of which
it treats. OF
W.  H.  H.  MURRAY.
W. H. H. Murray was born in 1840 at Guilford, Connecticut.
His earliest characteristic was love of books. He was born
with a passion for knowledge. Before entering college and during his course he studied poetry and belles-lettres under Fitz-
Greene Halleck, the poet, with whom he was a great favorite.
Mr. Murray was graduated from Yale in the class of '62.
While at Yale, he was, above all else, a reader of books. His
memory was extraordinary, and he seemed incapable of forgetting. A book once read was his at call forever. The great
object of all his reading and study was his native tongue. He
mastered English literature from beginning to date. He read
everything ; he read critically, and he never forgot what he read.
After his graduation he studied theology at East Windsor
and under private teachers. His first engagement as preacher
was as assistant to Dr. Edward Hatfield, D. D., New York City.
This engagement terminated with Dr. Hatfield's resignation.
He then served at Washington, Litchfield Co., Conn.; Greenwich, Conn. ; Meriden, Conn. ; at Park Street Church, Boston,
seven years ; Music Hall, Independent Congregational Church,
three years, — fifteen years in all of steady, continuous service.
From preacher to a small country congregation, his abilities and
laborious studentship lifted him in six years to the leading pulpit in his denomination. In Boston, then as now the most literary city in the country, — whose pulpits and platforms had
been for fifty years their pride, where eloquence of the highest
order was familiar to all, — he remained for ten years, preaching to larger audiences every Sunday than any other preacher
in the land, and, with one exception, as a pulpit orator, without
a peer.
At the close of these fifteen years of service he retired from the ministry and the clerical profession, and entered upon a
course of study best calculated in his opinion to fit him for authorship and the platform, broadly interpreted. He went abroad
and made a thorough examination of English commercial methods, — her trade relations, her land system, and the tendency
of her social and political forces. He remained a close observer
of the great battle between Gladstone and D'Israeli, which ended
in the triumph of the former, and then returned to his own country and entered upon a study of the resources and characteristics of this continent. To this investigation he devoted six
years, and when he has completed his present extensive tour
he will have personally visited, with the exception of Alaska,
every representative section of the continent between Hudson's
Bay and the Gulf of Mexico, and between Newfoundland and
Vancouver. Few public or literary men, if any, have studied
so thoroughly the resources of this continent, and the vast problems growing out of our continental development, as Mr. Murray. It is greatly to be desired, from every point of view, that
one so well equipped for intelligent and candid discussion of
these problems may be constrained by popular encouragement
to do so.
In his self-command, in his reserve force, in the purity of his
language, almost wholly Saxon, in quiet intensity and grace
of style, in dignity of bearing, in clearness of statement, in the
finish of his sentences, and in charm of his manner, he stands
alone, although suggesting comparison, in one or more of these
attributes, with many great writers.
Three years ago he began to read his now celebrated story,
" How John Norton the Trapper kept his Christmas," and the
people have insisted on hearing the author render this quaint,
humorous, and pathetic bit of realism until it has already passed
its three hundred and fiftieth delivery from the platform, and
has been sold in book-form by thousands.


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