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A study of waves in the open ocean and of waves on shear currents Drent, Jan

Abstract

The dimensions and periods of waves on the oceans are still very imperfectly known, as can be seen from the divergent opinions expressed by the relatively few authorities who have occupied themselves with this problem. For many years I have endeavoured to observe waves at sea. The results of these observations are given in Part I, both in graphical and tabular form. The directly determined quantities were wave height and wave period, both being based on visual observation. A distinction was carefully made between waves under the direct influence of wind (called sea) and those that were only under the influence of gravity (called swell). In Part II the interaction between waves and currents is studied. The approximation is not carried further than to quantities K²a², where K is the wave number = L/2π and a is the surface amplitude = ½H = ½ wave height.

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