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UBC Theses and Dissertations

A shoreline prediction model Har, Boon Cher


A numerical model is developed to predict shoreline changes as a function of deep water wave conditions and nearshore bathymetry. The model consists of three components, the wave refraction and shoaling component, the longshore transport component, and the on-offshore component. The refraction and shoaling component is based on the irrotationality of the wave number K, and the conservation of energy equations suggested by Noda (1974), while the longshore transport component is based on the CERC longshore transport equation. A finite difference scheme is adopted to solve both the wave refraction and the longshore transport governing equations. The third component, the on-offshore transport (beach profile change) component is based on a set of equations developed from some of the known aspects of behaviour observed by other investigators. It is also based on the results obtained from a set of experiments conducted on equilibrium profile changes, and on a proposed criteria for on or offshore sediment motion. The model is used to simulate the shoreline changes due to a littoral barrier orientated normally to the shoreline, and to predict the changes of a beach nourishment plan. Results of these simulations show that, in addition to the longshore transport influences, the on-offshore beach modification has a large influence on shoreline retreat under more severe wave attack.

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