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Uno Langmann Family Collection of B.C. Photographs
[unknown]
94 unnumbered pages : illustrations
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tSpUVENIF^OF^ jp amianwiF :v'ANS & HASTINGS, PRINTERS m. XJancouver... iritis/? Columbia T^e Sunset ^Doorway . . . of tl?e ^Dominion What the City Offers from .. ^Business, .. 'Residential °nd Tourist .. Standpoints Published by Tlie ^Vancouver Tourist ^Association J —rw,,J! - OFFICERS OF - Vancouver Tourist Association HONORARY PRESIDENT His Worship the Mayor of the City of Vancouver. president Frederick Buscombe. R. Marpole, VICE-PRESIDENTS Superintendent of C. P. R. J. BUNTZEN, Manager B. C. Electric Railway. H. T. LOCKYER, President Board of Trade. W. J. Lamerick, President Trades and Labor Council. EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE W. C. Nichol C. N. Davidson F. J. Procter Robert Kelly Chas. Woodward R. G. Macpherson C. Sweeny J. Duff Stuart W. D. Haywood J. J. Banfield Chas. Doering C. A. Godson HONORARY TREASURER W. Godfrey. SECRETARY H. W. Findley. EVANS & HASTINGS, PRINTERS •rr-Y, ,,, ^^j^^irog \^ 'Vancouver... Do you know the blackened timber, do you know that racing stream, " With the raw, right-angled log-jam at the end, And the bar of sun-warmed shingle, where a man may bask and dream To the click of shod canoe-poles 'round the bend ? It is there that we are going, with our rods and reels and traces, To a silent, smoky Indian that we know— To a couch of new-pulled hemlock, with the starlight on our faces, For the Red Gods call us out, and we must go ! And we go—go—go—away from here ! On the other side of the world we're overdue ! 'Send the. road is clear before comes o er you, And the Red Gods call for you. hen the old Spring-fret —Ki-pling. An Empress Liner. FROM THE WEST comes the call, alluring, insistent, echoing- across the vast American Continent to the far-off Islands of the Old Land,—and having- once heard it, few there be who do not answer. So, into the roads that lead to the great Canadian West, stream sight-seers and fortune-builders ; hunters of game, big and little ; mountain-climbers and searchers for health resorts, —alike drawn to the land of magnificent distances, of undreamed-of beauties of sea and sky, mountain and river, the land of infinite resources and boundless possibilities. No one can quite withstand the fascination of the West. To follow the setting sun is almost an impulse, and once started, the traveller is lured on and on, until, reaching the shores of the Pacific itself, he realizes that, a step further, and "West is East and East is West." At the ^^^WWWMWiT^kf>^\£<'r^^^ C. P. R. Depot. At this point, where the Canadian Pacific Railway terminates on the southern shore of Burrard Inlet, flourishes the sixteen-year-old City of Vancouver. Commanding as it does the key to trade on the Pacific, as well as being the outlet for the products of the vast interior districts, its position, both from the standpoints of commercial utility and beauty, is-unique. Along the northern shore, as far as the eye can see, are snow-capped mountains, whose shaggy sides, varying in hue with every hour, slope towards the blue waters of the Inlet, broad and placid ; craft of all kinds crowd about the docks ; to the west, the green of Stanley Park, and more blue, shimmering* water, far stretching, with perhaps a great liner bound for the Far East or the South Seas fading on the horizon ; to the south, the .city itself rising fair and prosperous ; a mist upon the mountains, hanging- like a curtain of silvery gauze ; blue sky, and a flood of brilliant sunshine ; in the air an exhilarating sense of distance and freedom, which, for lack of a better name, people call "that Western feel." Warships in Vancouver Harbor. Into the harbor of Vancouver, justly famed for its size, safety and beauty (for it has plenty of room to entertain all the ships of the British navy without there being a ■ 'crush"), pours the ever-growing* volume of Australasian, Oriental and northern gold-fields trade, and each year sees crowding on the harbor front an increasing number of these "Swift shuttles of an empire's loom that weaves us main to main." In the City of Vancouver the most important commercial enterprises of the Province have their rise, and the substantial business blocks, well-paved streets, excellent system of electric lighting" and street railways, and uncommonly good water supply, are always favorably commented upon by visitors ; while the comfortable hotels, well-appointed theatres and shops, and general air of solidity and progress, fill with wonder travellers who have novel-manufactured ideas about "these far-western towns." Built upon a peninsula and almost surrounded by salt water, Vancouver enjoys to the fullest the bracing sea air, tempered by the mountains of the Coast range, which form a noble rampart to the north. Thus, dowered with perpetual coolness throughout the long and exquisite summers, it is an ideal steppping-off place for refugees from the heat of Eastern Canadian and American cities and Oriental countries ; while for convalescents, the life-giving breaths of the Pacific and the brilliant sunshine are tonics that cannot be surpassed. Visitors from inland places naturally find in the sea Vancouver Residences. ^Wh in tne sea ^se^ the ^yid*^^ greatest attraction. Bathing, boating and excursions to the charming spots ""* in the vicinity of Vancouver are sources of never-ending pleasure and may be indulged in to m any extent desired. Boats K&3£t**^ of all sorts may be rented '^^^fc. from any of the boat-houses on the inlet, as well as at ^English bay. Regular trips are made by steamer from Vancouver SJS? to Howe sound, Plumper's pass and the islands of the Gulf of Georgia, and to the north arm of the Inlet up to Granite Falls, among many other places, any of which trips can be accomplished within one day at very moderate cost. To Sechelt, Pender, Granite or Hardy islands, Thunder and Wulffsohn bays and Texada, occupies about two days. A still longer trip is made up the coast as far north as Skagway, and this run is considered one of the finest in the world. The scenery all along the coast of British Columbia is indescribably beautiful. Mile after mile one steams through island-dotted bays, broad inlets and winding channels that form narrow passes between towering* mountain ranges, and the finest bits of rugged scenery in Switzerland and Scotland are here equalled, if not surpassed. When summer brings a troop of fair days and cool nights, one spot more than all others puts forth her charms and reigns supreme. This is the long, level stretch of sandy beach at English bay (within a few minutes' ride by tram from the centre of the city), where it is good to see the far-glinting waters, to feel the free sweep of the wind, rTrmaa I and to hear the noise of the breakers, as they ride gallantly in, like foam-flecked steeds, and fling themselves, spent, upon the shore. ■■■ Surf at English Bay. Here are to be found in full swing* all the pleasures of a seaside resort, and one may with equal enjoyment bathe, or swim, or fish, or go for a sail, or paddle a canoe, or merely bask on the sands, content to watch the amusements of the crowd of happy children and grown-ups. And when day wanes, and the sun drops over the edge of the bay, sending a shaft of g*old across the waters, and sky and mountains take on gorgeous tints, one can understand tourists saying, "The sunsets are worth crossing continents to see." During* the evening's an orchestra plays in a pavilion overlooking the Bay, and this is a very attractive feature throughout the season. As everyone knows, British Columbia is very dear to the heart of the sportsman, and those who have pursued the mountain goat, or bear, or listened for the cry of the cougar or mountain lion, or stalked the deer through the great trackless forests, know full w*ell the excitement and **'*'■'•"-.""■■»4 Vancouver, looking East from Court House. keen delig'ht of it all. . Grouse, ducks and pheasant are more than plentiful in districts within easy reach of the city. And with the rod, no less than the g*un, may triumphs be won, for British Columbia trout and salmon need no recommendation to the angler. The collector of Indian baskets and curios will be interested in a visit to the quaint Mission across the Inlet, a ten-minutes' run by ferry. The Siwashes (as the men of this tribe are called, the women being known as Klootch- men) have become too civilized to wear the picturesque blanket and gay head-dress of feathers, except on rare occasions when a "pot-latch" is on hand, or a friend worth giving a good funeral to departs for the happy hunting- grounds. Close by is the North Vancouver Hotel, a very popular summer resort, where saddle-horses and carriages may be obtained for the beautiful drive to Capilano canyon, about four miles distant. North Vancouver Summer Resort. J S* Mountain-climbers may make the start here for Grouse mountain, immediately opposite the city, and the summit reached, one's efforts are amply rewarded by the magnificent view from this coign of vantage of the surrounding mountains, islands and bays for many miles. When tourists ask,—as tourists always do— "What is there to see typical of the country that cannot be seen every place else ?"—the two most distinctive features of this part of British Columbia suggest themselves—that is to say, lljtl salmon canneries and lumber mills. as To see the former and watch the process—from the catching of the silvery beauties to their final disappearance into neatly sealed cans—one should take the Vancouver & Lulu Island Railway to Steveston (about an hour's run from the city), which is the centre of this industry. During the winter months Steveston, or "Salmonopolis," is a deserted village, but when the salmon begin to run there is great activity in all quarters. Even salmon canning has its picturesque side, and a visit to Steveston should be timed to include the impressive sight of many hundreds of boats setting* out at sun-down for the fishing grounds, their sails silhouetted ag*ainst the sky-line, and when darkness falls, the lights twinkling here and there like will-o'-the-wisps. The most characteristic feature of the Pacific coast is, of course, the lumbering industry. In a country where nature deals so largely in superlatives, one is led to expect something very big indeed from the British Columbia forests, and in this expectation there is no disappointment. The average height of the trees is from 150 to 170 feet, and diameter from five to seven feet. As for the really large" trees,— what are known as "British — Columbia Toothpicks"—if one were to give a faithful account of their sizes, it would only be considered a gross exaggeration, and is therefore better left to the personal observation of the tourist. Com paring British Columbi: timber with that of Eastern Canada, particularly Ontario, forest land that carries 20,000 ft. to the acre is considered a good Getting the Timber to Market. 1 of A few of Vancouver's Churches. —a average yield there ; in British Columbia a fair average yield is from 50,000 to 100,000 feet per acre. A lumbering camp is a very interesting" sight, and a visit to a typical coast saw mill no less so. . The Hastings mill, on the harbor front of Vancouver, furnishes a very good example of one of these, and here one may see the great log*s, that have been floated down in a "boom" from the camps, converted into marketable lumber and loaded on the fleet of sailing vessels that await their cargoes, bound for the United Kingdom, Australia, China, Japan, India and South American ports. mmmm®* Many delightful hours may be spent in Stanley Park, a fine tract of forest land preserved, for the most part, in its natural state, except for the system of roads, and paths through the tangle of green, great trees, shrubs, tall palm-like ferns, velvety mosses and trailing vines, £ for here "the warm, wet western wind" has full play, and produces an almost tropical growth. "The Zoo," Swan lake and the Seal pond are verT^ jf popular resorts, and the rustic seats and summer-houses scattered here and there make pleasant resting spots. The roads, which are made of clam-shells left by the coast Indians after their great clambakes, are always in excellent condition for walking", driving or bicycling. The drive around the park winds for nine miles through avenues of magnificent trees, skirting the waters of Coal harbor, the inlet and English bay. At Prospect point visitors are shown the spot where the " Beaver," the first ship to round the Horn, came to her doom, and relics of this unfortunate pioneer are very highly prized. Sports of all kinds occupy a good deal of attention in Vancouver, and enthusiastic crowds attend the various matches held throughout the week at the park recreation grounds and the Powell street grounds. Lacrosse, baseball, cricket, hockey, football, and aquatic sports flourish during the seasons. In addition to these amusements, devotees of the great and ancient game of golf are looking forward with pleasure to the early completion of links at Bicycling in Stanley Park. JHIHHHflflHHI ^^■Bi?^^B Up among the Islands. Lulu Island, where the Canadian Pacific Railway Company has made a large grant of land for this purpose. Until quite recently the name of the Canadian West suggested to the minds of a great many people a wild land, difficult of access ; bands of lurking Indians with a penchant for tomahawking-; magnificent in a rude, semi-civilized way, but totally lacking* in the comforts of life. Now that all these mistaken ideas have been dispelled, the Western trip has become exceedingly popular with tourists, combining all the comforts and luxuries of the beaten paths of travel with the delights of exploring fresh scenes in a newly opened-up " '-.- country. A busy day in Vancouver •'.-..j lliii'H Isabel A, R. MacLean, r-7- Ttaddy Freeman m Home. Daddy Freeman was a native of Yorkshire, England, who came to this country when a mere lad. First to New York State, then to Canada, he finally reached British Columbia, preempted a quarter section of land, and took up his abode in this stump, situated about 40 yards from the Yale road, near Abbottsford on the Mission branch of the C. P. R., clearing and tilling" a small patch of his holdings. He made a door of split cedar—the latches and hing"es were made of crooked vine maple. He hewed down the rough parts of the inside of the stump, and laid a floor about three feet from the ground, cut a hatch in the floor, and in this receptacle he stored his potatoes and other vegetables. He slept aloft on another floor under the roof, as shown in this sketch. His method of reaching- this curious dormitory was by means of a ladder made of light material, which he pulled up after reaching his perch, and hung* on a peg on a level with his bed. In this way he imagined himself free from intrusion and, as he often said, out of reach of the "darned women." But as there was not a woman within seven miles, this must be charged to his imagination. He eventually sold the place for a small sum of money and moved down near New Westminster, where he only stayed a short time, and then started south into Washington, promising to return ag*ain to British Columbia, and although nearly 76 years of age, he carried a pack of blankets and other things on his back which would have staggered most men in the prime of life. A short time after he was found dead on the road with his pack by his side. -^—— 3ar_, TI?e Early Historic Fire. Looking at the Vancouver of to-day, it is difficult to realize that the city of handsome four- and six-story stone and brick buildings, of electric cars, paved streets and beautiful homes, in which 30,000 people dwell, dates from June 13th, 1886. That was the day of the great fire, when the whole of the rapidly growing town was destroyed. Scarcely a thousand dollars' worth of household goods was saved, and many people met an awful death. It was a da*y of disaster, but a new and vigorous city sprung into existence, and is still forging ahead with amazing rapidity. The building begun on the blackened site on the morning* of June 14th, seventeen years ago, has not ceased, but is progressing* at the valuable rate of a million a year. In the middle eig'hties, when it was announced that the Canadian Pacific Railway, then in course of construction to the Pacific coast, would terminate at Coal harbor, the building- of Vancouver beg-an. The Hastings and Moodyville lumber mills were in operation previously, but only sufficient people resided in the vicinity to make the place a " settlement.' had no existence, 1886, it was incorpor- In 1885, Vancouver On the 6th of April, ated, and two months later had extended as far west : The main and only streets at that time were Water, Cordova, Hastings, Carrall, Abbott and Alexander. The residential and business portions were then comprised in the district where now are situated blocks of stores and wholesale warehouses. Clearing the First Meeting of City Council after the Fire, dense forest was going on west of Cambie street, and fires of brush filled the air with smoke. On Sunday, the fateful June 13th, a strong westerly gale drove showers of sparks and burning pieces of timber among the houses. The smoke had been dense for several days, which allayed the sense of danger, and the crackling of flames in one's own house was the first intimation many had of the terrible danger. It was one of the swiftest and most comprehensive conflagrations which ever visited any city. Within an hour after the alarm had been given, nothing was left of Vancouver between the Regina hotel, on the corner of Cambie and Cordova streets, which marked the western limit, and the Hastings mill, half a mile distant, but a blackened greyish waste, from which sprung little spurts of flame. The fire had done awful work. -** -ait *» Hm ^^^j»s? £ "*•"•• '2'!** ^ _-. -^-*~ t§^4||| Vancouver i ~ The tug-steamer Robert Dunsmuir, still plying out of the harbor, carried many across the inlet to Moodyville, where they were hospitably treated. New Westminster friends cared for many others, for all who escaped were homeless, and were compelled to abandon everything in the flight for safety. While fleeing from the burning" city many were stricken down in the streets by the fiery blast, and several who took refuge in wells were either suffocated or drowned. Many are living in Vancouver at present who were residents when such havoc was wrought. Great was the faith of these pioneers, and on the morning after the fire, gleams of scantling could have been descried here and there where the erection of building's had been begun on ground not at that time cold. The night following, some of the improvised shelters were ready for occupation. Assistance was generously tendered from all sides, and when the first train of the Canadian Pacific Railway, at that time just completed, reached Coal harbor on May 23rd, 1887, there was a Princess Louise Tree. as new and a larger city, and a steadily increasing population. The strange happenings, hairbreadth escapes and remarkable incidents of that period are history, but are interesting, even at this late date, when, modern growth has obliterated all remaining evidences of the destructive conflagration. ^33 11*1 ■BOM ^Isr' w'-- Commercial "Vancouver. Great in its possession of unlimited resources, with a wealth of products of mine and sea and forest, British Columbia enjoys an enviable proximity to the future centre of the commercial activity of the world. And Vancouver, midway between the hemispheres, the point of egress from the new and the entrance from the old, stands amid unsurpassed surroundings the coming metropolis of western Canada. It was in the month of June, 1792, that Captain George Vancouver, on his voyage of discovery, sailed into Burrard Hastings Street, looking East. inlet, which he named, together with all the neighboring : inlets, islands and headlands. His ^ rjtf*aJJ»^gfcL ships were- anchored off Point J\J$$~SE£gz'-. Gray, three miles to the westward in the Gulf of Georgia, and, in boats, he, with a party, explor- -"T* ' ed the inlet, hoping to find the northwest passage across America, the great object of explorers at that time. One hundred years after, the city which now crowds the whole of the large peninsula between Burrard inlet and False creek, began to assume proportions. The new town was known at first by a number of names, Gastown and Granville being* the most common, but when incorporation was granted in 1886 it was named after the sailor who had carried the king*'s patent to discover lands in the northern Pacific ocean. ifct.rpRpiir A few Vancouver Residences. SET_. -3*1 A few of Vancouver's Business Blocks. Vancouver's business blocks are indicative of the prosperity of the city. They are mostly of stone, which is quarried but a short distance away, and present an imposing appearance. All the available business locations on the principal streets have been taken up, and the buildings erected this year will greatly increase the importance of the commercial section. Since the first building was erected, in the vicinity of where the Sunnyside hotel now stands at the corner of Carrall and Water streets, until the present, the progress of Vancouver has been rapid and permanent. In sixteen years it has attained waE~sl a population of over 30,000, having been 26,133 in the spring of 1901, according to the returns of the Dominion government census officials. Exports and imports have increased, wholesale and retail businesses grown, industries amplified and extended, new sources of revenue revealed, until to-day it is the first city of the West, the brightest and most up-to-date in civic and municipal improvement, excepting only Montreal and Toronto. This is due to more reasons than one. In addition to an admirable situation as the Pacific terminus of the Canadian transcontinental railway, giving it commercial superiority, Vancouver possesses climatic advantages unequalled in Canada. The sanitary condition Of the city is about as perfect as modern science and engineering skill can make it. The water is the purest in the world, being brought from twelve miles in the mountains. mm m-JL "Vancouver's Schools. The schools of Vancouver and the excellent system upon which they are operated well repay the time needed to visit and examine their working. Young as the city is, there is already a capitalized investment of $450,000.00 in school buildings and equipment. There are eight handsome and well-built structures in various parts of the city. Three of these are sixteen- roomed brick schools, while each of the others is an eight- roomed building. The educational facilities offered in these schools are unsurpassed in any country on the face of the globe. Every member of the teaching* staff, numbering nearly one hundred, is selected with special reference to qualification, adaptability and experience for the position. From the tiny tots in the infant classes to the graduating class in the High School and the Vancouver College, every one of the four thousand school children in the city has the advantage of being trained by a specialist in the work of the class. In the High School, as representing the finished product of the system, may be seen the superiority of the advantages offered to the children of citizens. Not only is the whole school system absolutely free to all residents, but the Hig*h School has in connection with it an auxiliary University course, being an extension of the ordinary hig*h school curriculum to cover the first two years of the regular university work. The High School, which is organized as Vancouver Colleg*e, with a special charter from the Government, is affiliated with the well-known McGill University of Montreal. As just remarked, the first two years' work of the university is taught, and the regular McGill examinations for that period of the course are held here. By this means the expense of pupils desiring to take the university work is reduced very greatly, as every student of Vancouver College goes to the university to finish his course upon the same footing as if the first two years had been put in at Montreal. r ■yah BH "'j;;-^ A teaching staff of ten honor graduates, each a successful specialist in his chosen branches of study, takes the work of the high school and college. A most important special feature of the high school work is the commercial course, under special masters, offering all the advantages usually obtained in the best commercial or business colleg*es. This, like the university work of the Vancouver College, is designed to cover the time following the ordinary hig*h school course, and supplementing* it from a practical point as the university work does from the ground of advanced scholarship. This year the Board of School Trustees has in contemplation the erection of a new high school building* of larger dimensions, and built upon the very latest and most improved desig'ti for such purposes. The rapid extension of the high school work, and the great increase in attendance in the public schools of the city has made additional space for both high and public schools an immediate necessity. One of the most important special features of the Vancouver schools is the Manual Training* system, established by the gift of Sir William Macdonald. There are three manual training centres in convenient portions of the city, so that pupils from all the schools may receive instruction. Each is fully equipped for the work and three instructors form the staff. Every boy attending* the schools in turn receives a course at these centres. An institution, which while not directly a part of the city's school system, thoug*h directly and intimately associated, is the Provincial Normal School, which is established in this city. Here all the teachers of the provincial schools are offered a splendid training* in the art and practice of teaching, entirely free of tuition charges. On successful completion of the course, the Department of Education issues to each graduate a certificate which is valid during the pleasure of the Board of Education, which practically means a life certificate. The School Trustees of Vancouver will heartily welcome all visitors from every land, who desire to inspect the city's school system and see the actual work of teaching" in progress. r- Looking out on the Gulr. The growth of the city is not to be made by comparisons. Beginning at zero, its commercial importance has increased proportionately with the development of the Province, which, during the last decade, has produced, with the exclusion of the gold from the Yukon, more minerals than the other provinces of the confederation combined. Here are located the great lumber and shingle mills of British Columbia, which export to all parts of the world. Here also are the headquarters of the canneries which pack salmon for American and European markets. Deep- sea fish companies operate from this port, and millions of pounds of halibut are exported to the New England States. It is the supply point of the mineral producing* districts,— the Klondike, Atlin, Cariboo, Lillooet, Similkameen, Koote- nay and Boundary, and of the Okanagan valley, famed for its fruit. In the interior of the Province, and on the coast immediately north, new tributary districts are being constantly developed. The pulse of a community is measured by its monetary institutions, and the flourishing condition of the seven chartered banks of Vancouver is highly indicative of present prosperity and future progress. The clearings of the past year of over fifty-one millions show an increase of five million dollars over those of 1901. A Bankers' Association, a Board of Trade, Lumber Association, and various other organizations advocate whatever is deemed of financial, commercial, industrial or municipal interest. With large active membership, they are ever on the alert, and the pro- gressiveness of the city's institutions is due largely to the energetic endeavors of these enthusiastic bodies. i , Ipgppil mmmmmmm : The solidity of investments is attested by the assessment roll of the corporation, which for 1901 totalled more than sixteen millions and a half. These figures will be considerably enlarg*ed when the returns for 1902 are compiled. Customs statistics show three millions and a half of exports during the year, and imports of over four millions, with a* constant increase. This is notwithstanding the fact that considerable of the returns of Vancouver business houses are registered at New Westminster. In the forty business blocks are stores of more than passing interest. The situation of the city is conducive to this. Being the first port south of Alaska, where strange Indian tribes produce uniquely designed constructions, and the western entrance from the Orient, the factory of fragile china and delicate looms, there are offered useful and ornamental articles, souvenirs and keepsakes, never met with except in stores on the Pacific coast. The gun-shops are stocked with the fine productions of Birmingham and the marts of Britain ; the bookstores with the latest sheets from the rapidly revolving printing presses ; the jewelers' with the solid service and fancy creations of the goldsmith's ag:.. art; all lines of commerce are represented by the best, for nothing less will please the people of what has been termed "the extravagant west." The commerce by sea is important. This is the port of transhipment of a great portion of the tea and silk used in eastern America, and million-dollar cargoes are not rare. For the forty days preceding November 12th, 1902, the value of the silk alone which arrived en route to r New York was $5,941,000. During the past year initial shipments of oats and wheat from the Northwest Territories were made to South Africa and Melbourne, and relying upon the proximity of this port to the great grain producing prairies, its accessibility to the markets of the Orient, Australia and Africa, and the excellent shipping- facilities afforded, a future grain export trade is anticipated. The flag's of many nations may be seen floating from the mastheads of the ships in the harbor. The haven itself one of the best the world, landlocked, and safely protected from storms. The entrance, while com- ->*-\- ;; paratively narrow, is well defined by lights and available at all stages of the tide. With mountains rising* from the northern shore, and the city on the south, it is decidedly picturesque in its surround- Landing Sailors from His Majesty's Ships. On the Waterfront. ings, and the visitor travelling inward by boat receives an impression never thoroughly dispelled. The six thousand feet of docks give accommodation to an ever increasing fleet. At the half-mile wharf of the Canadian Pacific Railway Company, at times taxed beyond its capacity, can be found the "floating palaces," wrhich ply between Vancouver and China, and the steamers of the "AH Red" line, which have Australia as their trans-oceanic destinations. The boats covering the thousand-mile course to Skag*way, the Klondike port, also find berths here. At times may be seen steamships bound for far-off Nome, and occasionally the bulky, monster, round-the-world freighters of the China Mutual and other companies tie up. Steamers of the halibut fishing trade ; the supply boats of the log*ging* camps ; the fleet on the routes to various coast islands and ports; ferry steamers, cannery and lumber tugs and freight transports ; sailing ships just arrived from six months' trips in foreign climes ; steamers with five-thousand-ton cargoes of sugar from Java ; lumber carriers at the mill wharves loading for different parts of the world ; and, on a holiday, the Pacific squadron from the Esquimalt station,—these are someof the craft to be seen in the harbor. They form a remarkably interesting sight with their forest of masts and flying flags. Looking up Burrard Inlet. r ^p^-filB '^^ts^fipiii THE LUMBER INDUSTRY: A FEW OF THE LEADING MILLS Tfye City's Industries. Industrial Vancouver comprises lumber mills, machine shops, foundries, ship-building yards, marine railways, refineries and fish packing institutions. It is preeminently a city having* to do with lumber manufacture and shipment, with ships, and the product of the mine and the sea. The largest shingle mill in the world is operated in the city, and is one of twenty lumber and shingle manufactories, the most complete of their kind on the Pacific coast, situated on the shores of Burrard inlet and False creek. The greatest of these mills are those of the B. C. M. T. & T. Co. Established in 1865, they now employ, in their various operations, about 1,500 men. The shingles produced in Vancouver alone in a year would, if laid end to end, reach around the globe once, and considerably more than half again These mills manufacture annually 45,000,- 000 feet of lumber, which would build in modern style 4,500 dwellings 30x30 feet, fifteen feet in height, or sufficient to house a population of about 20,000. One of the larg-e trees in Stanley Park would furnish enoug*h lumber to build almost two such dwellings. Ships carry 30,000,000 feet of this product to all parts of the world, and the developing t dfoji?TiSH?Ewm :cifr Western Canada requires larg'e quantities. The timber ot unique for unsurpassed l|k Douglas fir, k i "*\ high, is the British Columbia is its monster size and quality. The 150 and 200 feet variety marketed, and especially The Duke and Duchess of York at Hastings Mill. strong machinery is needed to handle a log" which can give a "toothpick" 112 feet long and 24 inches square, or 70 feet in length and 36 inches in diameter. Log'glng operations are different than in Eastern Canada, where the trees]neither attain such massive proportions, nor are encumbered with such dense undergrowth surrounding's. "^^^^ In felling the timber, niches are made at a W^UsEd'^^M' height of eig*ht or ten feet, planks are inserted, and on these the hewer stands. This allows freedom to the axe, and gives a log clear from the inequalities and the breaking of the divergent roots near the ground. The great Canadian Transcontinental Railway engages in the city alone over 800 employees, independent of the crews of the steamers of the Canadian Pacific Navigation Company's fleet and the men on the wharves. This large number of employees is connected with the various departments incidental to the management of the terminal business of such a company. The C. P. R. has here very extensive yards, roundhouse, machine shops, . etc. ; in short, everything* required for the prompt and effective surmounting of all the difficulties of transportation. The electric car lines, and the connecting* interurban line to New Westminster, are controlled by a company of English capitalists, employing* 200 men in the city. The company operates also the systems in Victoria and New Westminster, together with the electric lighting in all three cities, with a general manager and head offices in Vancouver. The Vancouver Power Company, a subsidiary organization, is installing* a plant to give unlimited power for electric and industrial purposes. The engineering scheme by which this is to be effected has been designated as one of the "prettiest" ever conducted on the Pacific Coast. Barnet Mills (on Burrard Inlet). It is no less than the construction of a tunnel two miles long through a mountain of solid granite to connect two lakes, and thus afford a never failing supply of water. The scene of operations is about ten miles from the city and conveniently reached by boat or steamer. The canneries, favorite objective points for visitors during* those months in summer when fish are being packed, are situated on the Fraser river and on the shore in the vicinity of the city. Here can be observed the salmon, freshly brought from the water, and the interesting* operations of packing may be followed, which require very intricate machinery. Other fish exported in large quantities is the halibut, one of the best of the large salt water varieties. Nowhere in the world is this fish found so larg*e or so numerous than in the ocean north from Vancouver. One of the principal industries is the manufacture of sugar, carried on by the British Columbia Sugar Refinery Company, with a capacity of from 500 to 600 barrels per day. The raw material is brought principally from Java, with consignments from South America and the Fiji islands, and discharg*ed at wharves where the largest ships may tie up. The numerous departments are all under skilled workmen, and the processes through which ji^sOif; On the Marine Slip. the sugar passes from the time it leaves the hold of the steamer until, in its refined state, it is packed in barrels for shipment, are very interesting* to the observer. The marine railway, on which ships and steamers or every magnitude may be hauled out for repairs, can be seen in no other place but a commercial port. It is a novel contrivance, and on it ships are easily broug-ht from the sea to the land, where improvements and repairs are made most effectively. All marine machinery necessary in these operations is manufactured in establishments in the city. The manufacture of the heavy implements requisite in mining and other industries requires foundries and machine shops of great capacity. Vancouver has a number of these, the product of which is to be found in all parts of the west, and north, and is shipped even to Australia. Cates's Shipyard. The ship-building* yards are constantly in process ot permanent expansion. Plying in local waters are steamers of handsome lines constructed by local workmen. The building of boats for the cannery trade, for timber towing, for the coast passeng*er trade, etc., is done in the city, and the new government fishery cruiser, Kestrel, w*as launched from Wallace's yards, False Creek. This industry is to be considerably enlarged, and it is anticipated that keels of four-masted lumber carriers will be laid this year. Capital has seen the advantages of a city situated in the midst of magnificent timber, and on the shores of the Northern Pacific ocean, the scene of the commercial operations of the coming century. "Vancouver's Chinatown. China and its inhabitants have ever been a source ot ."wonder to the peoples of other nations, and in those cities on the Pacific coast where many of the quaint-looking, uniquely dressed natives of the Flowery King*dom have made their homes, visitors never miss an opportunity for a trip through what is popularly known as Chinatown. Apart from the gratifying- of idle curiosity, there is much to be . learned. Their customs and habits may be noted, their peculiarities distinguished, their temples inspected and their methods observed. It is well said that "the heathen Chinee is peculiar," and in the light of modern advancement and civilization the three-thousand-year-old customs of their ancestors seem strange and odd, especially when compared on all sides with one of the most up-to-date cities in the west. One is but a short time in Vancouver when the Celestial in his Oriental dress is observed. This is usually dark in color, but in the privacy of their homes the gown is often of handsomely embroidered and rich stuffs. Taken in conjunction with the remainder of their dress, their shoes and stockings are picturesque. The latter are generally white, and the slipper, for there is no lacing, is black, with embroidery, and thick, white-edged soles. The footwear ot the women is the most unique of any country. The slipper in the upper is of the ordinary appearance, but the sole is an inch or more in depth, and, converging to a point, makes it seem as if she were walking on skates. Chinese women are not numerous here, but they may often be seen on the streets, their long black hair shining with cosmetique, their heads always uncovered, and their apparel very similar to that of the men. The Chinese baby is an object of curiosity. The jet black slanting eyes of these atoms of humanity are just as shiningly inquisitive as those of white babies, and the voice when plaintively raised is the same. The children as a rule are intelligent and many attend the public schools of the city. The invitation from the Chinaman to visit him is so cordial that any misgivings one may have at thrusting one's self upon a stranger are instantly overcome. The visitor is offered tea, which ever stands in a dainty pot, secluded in a basket cosy. No matter at what time one may enter a Chinese dwelling or place of resort, tea is already prepared and the cups always ready. The dishes are of delicate workmanship, and so seemingly fragile that one believes the pressure of the lips would be sufficient to damage the ware. Everything is done to make the visitor feel at home. It is at the time of their New Year, however, that the Chinese are unequalled in hospitality. This event occurs about the first of February and lasts several days. Doors are always open, appetizing confections are placed for the guests, who are welcome to call, wine is offered and presents bestowed. It is then, too, that the Chinese celebrate to their hearts' content by exploding firecrackers. Throughout the nig*ht the detonation is loud and long*, and subscriptions among* themselves provide great strings as long as a telegraph pole of the red-paper-covered crackers which can be manufactured to such perfection nowhere but in China. The Emperor's birthday is another occasion when their delight is expressed, not unlike the celebration of Dominion Day or the Fourth of July, which is only another coincidence of the inherent similarity of all nations. The interior of a Chinese store transports one for the moment across the seas. The rang*e of silks, the array ot those knick-knacks and delicate mechanisms for which noted, are on all this people are sides. The gilded seems like the em- some maze desig'n. feathers, affected symbol of bravery, Everything about is accordance with customs which machinery. The inating- the china painted and are skill, art and Chinese lettering- bossed bordering of The peacock by the Chinese as a are in profusion, hand - made, in the conservative forbid the use of sketches ilium- are all hand- indicative of patience. In such a visit one has gone far enoug-h west to be in the remote east, and the guttural and not unmusical intonations of the Chinese attendants complete the dream. On returning* to the open air one is rudely disturbed by the surrounding sounds of modern industry which recalls the reality. Rice mills are operated in Chinatown, and the transformation of the raw material into the shining white particles can be observed. The method is the same as when centuries ago the wild rice plant first became one of the staple articles of food of the peoples of the then unknown China. The rice is separated from its barley-like hulls by being pounded in a stone receptacle, the hammer being* operated by the treadmill power of a patient Chinaman. After the husks have been separated, and are reduced to a powder by the process, the rice is sifted from the chaff by dexterous manipulators. Everything* is as white as a Canadian flour mill, but the rows of industrious Chinese and the implements of the process are reminders that one is among another and a strang*e people. The manufacture of jewelry is an art at which the Chinese are adept. Their intricate designs have ever been a source of astonishment, and the beautiful engraving on the rings is something" that cannot be seen elsewhere. Most of the g-old circlets are made of 24 carat gold, and are of a deeper color than articles more ordinarily seen. A Chinese restaurant is an interesting place. Tables are arranged as in those places with which we are all accustomed, and the rice, the main article of food, is eaten with chopsticks. One wonders how the Chinese manage to convey food from the dish with such unusual instruments. On the Stage of the Chinese Theatre. The theatre, which is open during* the fall and winter seasons, is picturesque to the Caucasian observer. The plays are all historical and traditional, and represent some great event in the history of the Empire. The Chinese, in addition to being* taught to read and write in their own langnage, are instructed in the history of their country, and to all of them these scenes are familiar. The presentation is made by a company of no mean histrionic ability, the members of which command larg*e remuneration. The costumes, owned by the company, are handsome and richly embroidered with gold. Accepted Masons, ki m Among* the Chinese is a Masonic body, a iety very similar to the Ancient Free and all parts of the world. It meets regularly, and the members devoutly to their obliga- v. tions. The v <U^ < organization is semi-religious in character, and in connection is maintained the largest joss-house in the city, in which none but the members of the society may worship. This is their temple, and there can be found the idol before which they bow in humble prayer. No public place is afforded the ordinary individual, and those not belonging to the society rear their idols in secluded places in their own homes. The majority of the Chinese are Buddhists, but there are some who follow the teaching-s of Confucius. When one sees the picture of this ancient moral writer in a Chinese home, one is reminded that the inhabitants of China did not at all times wear queues. Confucius is represented without one, he having* lived years before the invasion of the Tartaric tribes, which insisted upon the adoption of the "pig-tail" as a symbol of submission. The Chinese community of Vancouver is a corporation within a corporation. They have their individual merchants (some of whom have become wealthy by the pursuance of strict trade principles), their barber shops, etc. A club, similar to those existing in modern cities, is about to be formed, and will have a special building- of its own. The g-aming* propensities of the Chinese are only exercised to the degree to provide a pastime. Situated as they are with the male population greatly preponderating, they have little amusement. Larg*e numbers are employed as domestic servants in the homes of the city, filling- a necessity which mig*ht not otherwise be obviated, and when these assemble in the evening games are proposed. The Chinese Empire Reform Association is a popular organization and has many members. Throug*h the efforts of this society many prominent Chinese are adopting modern customs, cutting* off their queues and wearing European clothes. The peculiarities of another people are always interesting, and the study of them at close range, which may be obtained without difficulty, is an attraction to visitors. Tl)e Beauties of Stanley ^Park. Vancouver possesses what is, perhaps, the largest and grandest park on the continent. It is a government reserve, granted the city for recreation grounds, and subject only to being* utilized for military or naval operations. The park contains about one thousand acres, and is within a very short distance of the centre of the city, street cars running to the two entrances. The name is in honor of Lord Stanley, a former Governor-General of Canada, who on his visit to the west during his term of office, presided at the opening ceremonies. The situation could not be improved. It is a large peninsula, almost an island, with roads around the seashore edge, and transverse paths into the depths of the woodland. The larger portion of the park is the dense forest growth peculiar to British Columbia, and ten minutes after leaving the city one can be so secluded as to believe civilization miles and miles away. Through this forest, where huge trees grow- to a tremendous heig'ht, and giant ferns are in profusion, roads extend, leading wherever one wishes. Formed ot broken shell or gravel, they are as hard as a floor and excellent for walking, wheeling or driving. On entering from Georgia street over the bridge, one is immediately in the portion most improved by the Board of Commissioners who have the management of the park. The vine-mantled house of the ranger peeps from behind climbing roses, and the fragrant g*arden is beautiful with flowers. In this part is the park zoo, where can be seen bears, wolves, cougars, deer,— in short all species of the Province, and many of the animals and brilliant-plumag*ed birds from other parts of the world. Sea captains coming into port frequently make /■ llPfet i§iilfS®il MB donations brous from foreig-n shores. The ranger keeps close account of all, and has tabulated the various inmates of the cages, the donators and from ««»«» whence If fll * brought. |«PHU> This is I one of 1 the most interesting places in the whole park for the children, who delight in watching the sportive creatures as they gambol about the enclosures, and the twittering birds, with their gaudy feathers flashing" in the sunlight. Band concerts are held during the summer, and large clearings have been made under the umbrageous cedar and firs. Nearby are the artificial lakes in which are kept the seals and the rare ducks and geese. Paths lead in all directions among the trees, and in secluded nooks are arranged rustic seats and rests. P^W&pl In Stanley Park. ST/9££T CA*S Roads n court house O Post Office O CtrvHALL AMD ll&RARY □ Recreation Grounds B Hotel Vancouver and Opera House EI Drill Hall D Royal Theatre O Z>/7W B.CIlectric by. Co. ^jt ' j||| Hallelujah Point, Stanley Park * ^"j-^ \ Passing the recreation grounds, ten acres in extent, where games and sports are held the whole year round, one approaches Brockton Point, where the lighthouse defines the entrance to the Narrows from Vancouver harbor. This is an excellent place to watch the swirling tides as they rush out during the ebb, or foam in when flowing-. An enormous body of water passes in and out in a comparatively short time, and at such periods the passage is dangerous to small boats unless skillfully handled. Skirting the water to the westward, a pleasant driveway extends to Prospect or Observation Point, a mile distant. This headland is 250 feet sheer above the outer extremity of the Narrows, and commands a magnificent perspective of the Indian Mission and the hamlet of North Vancouver on the farther shore, and the mountains in the background. A summer house has been erected on the Point where a rest may be made. Immediately below are the rugged rocks on which the Beaver was wrecked on July 26th, 1888. This steamer was an interesting craft, in that she was the first boat propelled by steam to ply on the Pacific. She was built for the Hudson's Bay Company at Blackwall on the Thames in 1835, and King William IV and several members of the royal family are said to have witnessed the launching. A duchess performed the christening" ceremony. The machinery of the Beaver was installed by Boulton & Watt, of which firm James Watt, the inventor of steam power, was a member. The Beaver arrived at Honolulu on February 4th, 1836, and reached the mouth of the Columbia on April 10th. At that time the whole country north of the villag"e of St. Francis (now San Francisco) was an unbroken wilderness, and in the gold discovery excitements of the latter forties and early fifties thousands of venturesome fortune hunters took passage on the little craft. She played a great part in the IflHHN M^g The Wreck of the SS. Beaver, beneath Prospect Point. the monster trees, which for size are not surpassed in British Columbia, the Province remarkable for tremendous growths. The largest in the park is one in which a double vehicle can find accommodation, and is ituated on the early development of the Pacific coast. After more than half a century of active service she was wrecked at this point in Stanley Park. The exact spot may be reached by a path down the hillside. Leaving* this memorable location, and making the circle of the seaside roadway, one passes the reservoir, in which is contained the water for the city, brought from the valley of the Capilano, 12 miles in the mountains across the inlet. For a short distance the road departs from the decending* cliff and gives one an opportunity of viewing* # side of the road to the left. This tree, six feet from the base, is 66 feet in circumference, and there can be observed the grooves worn by visitors who have strung the measuring tape around the A Big Tree in Stanl, Park bole. On the side path, indicated by a sig*n, are the other big trees of the park. The larg*est of these is 56 feet in circumference, and still possesses full vig*or. Another departing" path takes one to Siwash Rock, a pinacle of stone separated from the parent granite formation by the centuries of action of the sea. From the road which follows the sea on the western limit of the park, the multitude of sails of the salmon fishing" fleet can be seen on an evening* in July. It is a sight rarely equalled. The archipelago of canvas stretches from shore to shore and extends to the horizon. The number of boats is doubled by the mirroring waters, and, as the twilig*ht deepens, light after lig*ht glimmers into the increasing* darkness, and in the night brightly burns for the guidance of passing steamers. This flotilla is only a small portion of the fleet which reaches all along the Gulf of Georgia, and may be seen on any evening from June to nearly September. Proceeding, the roadway approaches the beach of English Bay, and the broad expanse of water spreads out with its wooded shores, fleets of boats and bordering* mountains. All along are scattered seats, favorite resting places in the delightful summer afternoons and evenings. Second beach is reached, where the mainland terminal of the longest cable in the world is located. This is a popular resort for picnic and Siwash Rock, Stanley Park. ^SlpP Stanley Park bathing parties. One may either follow the road to Beach avenue, which borders False Creek, or circle to the point of entrance, thus completing an eight-mile drive. Approaching- the park along Beach Avenue from Granville Street, one has a magnificent view of spreading- sea and indented shore. To many the interior of the park, through which paths wind with devious wanderings, offers enjoyment not experienced elsewhere. There one is ag*ain in touch with Nature in her most solemn moods, and can | Hear the soft winds murmur 'mong the trees And feel the forest pulses all astir." In the moss-covered branches and crumbling timbers one reads the history of centuries. A little lake almost in the centre of the park is often visited, and may be reached by convenient paths. This is surrounded by luxuriant sprays of ferns, their long* graceful fronds waving in rhythmic motion to the breeze. They are the gentlefolk of flowerless plants, which everybody loves. An abundance of these is a distinct feature of the park. Evergreens and shrubs border every path and roadway, and he who deliglits in studying" Nature by means of leaves and trees may spend many hours in Stanley Park. *m Englisi) "Bay. One of the finest stretches of sandy beach on the western coast is known as "The Bay." In summer it is the great pleasure resort of the city, and from early morning to late in the evening crowds of bathers and boating and picnic parties crowd the sands. It is the sea-shore, and far and away the blue expanse extends, bounded by wooded slopes and the mountains of Vancouver island. English Bay is reached directly from the city on the electric cars, the run being one of ten or fifteen minutes. On an afternoon in summer large numbers of people are on the beach, and the panorama of prettily-costumed bathers, white-attired boaters, playful children, shining sands and glinting waters is one only to be observed at such a resort. Through the months of June, July, August and even into September, the beach is never deserted. During this time bands play in the evening, and throngs find pleasure in listening* to the music, "The liquid notes which close the eye of day. For bathing*, the Bay is unsurpassed. The beach is of sand, all stones or anything to cause inconvenience having been removed. Houses for disrobing have been erected and suits are furnished at a moderate fee, a toboggan slide has been built, and a float placed some distance from the shore. For the safety of children and the benefit of those desirous of learning to swim, the city engag*es a competent instructor, who attends during the entire season. Owing to the enclosure of the Bay, the water is warmer for a longer period during* the summer than at any other place north of San Francisco. The weather is all that can be desired, and each successive week of the midsummer months sees no variation in the salubrious climate. Boat ing is one of the pleasures soug*ht at English Bay. From there can be made many trips of interest,—to the cannery, to the campers' ground at Greer's Beach, to logging- camps along the shore, and to the lig*hthouse at Point Atkinson. Pavilions have been erected in which hops, concerts and other social functions are held nightly during* the summer. Here also is the commodious club-house of the Eng- lish Bay Club, one of the popular organizations of Vancouver. The value of this portion of the city is to be greatly enhanced. Recognizing the importance of providing* for visitors and residents an unencumbered place on the seashore, the city council has purchased the lots adjacent to the beach. These will be improved and the resort made even more attractive than at present. A short distance from English Bay is Greer's Beach, he favorite place for campers in the near vicinity of the city. It is reached by boat from English Bay, or by the car line through Fairview. False Creek, an indentation of the sea, separates the two places, but the long* extent of sandy beach is the same as at English Bay. Being* somewhat removed from the centre of the city, Greer's Beach is visited by those who prefer moderate seclusion. Second Beach, Stanley Park. For the same reason many frequent what is known as Second Beach, a magnificent stretch of sand along the park shore. This, with its shady trees and velvety sward, is where numerous picnic parties gather. It is but a few minutes' walk from the car line, through the Beach Avenue entrance of Stanley Park. The /whole scene along the shore of the Bay is one of beauty. Apart from the material advantages to be obtained, it is a delightful place to visit, with its delicious coolness, invigorating breezes and pleasant environment. Sports and Sporting. To lovers of sport, Vancouver has many attractions. Clubs of all kinds maintain a succession ofg*ames throughout the summer and fall, and great interest is taken in athletics. The Brockton Point Athletic Association has encouraged the formation of teams in the various lines of sport, and with the Association are affiliated all the principal sporting organizations in the city. Among these are the Vancouver Lacrosse Clubs, intermediate and senior ; Vancouver Football Clubs, junior, intermediate and senior; Hockey Clubs, ladies' and gentlemen's ; Basketball Clubs, city and military ; Badminton Club ; Vancouver Cricket Club ; Vancouver Lawn Tennis Club ; Mount Pleasant Lawn Tennis Club ; Golf Club in process of formation ; Vancouver Baseball Club ; Vancouver Rowing- Club ; Amateur Athletic and Aquatic Association, Bicycle Club and Jockey Club. In addition there are several other smaller organizations, aquatic and athletic. The most important games are held on the extensive and beautiful grounds of the B. P. A. A., located in Stanley Park. Ten acres have been cleared and levelled, grand stand erected, speed track built, and magnificent fields are placed at the disposal of cricketers, lacrosse players and others who require large level areas. This is the finest place of its kind in the Province, and during summer many events are held. Baseball matches, the Vancouver Club being affiliated with the Northwestern league, are held in the Powell Street grounds, owned by the city and leased to the club. Boating is participated in perhaps more than any other sport. Every opportunity is offered, and on the inlet and bay numerous craft may be observed throughout the whole of the spring and summer. Many sailing yachts, gasoline, steam and electric launches, are owned privately, while \ the boats and canoes are numbered among the hundreds. Delightful excursions may be made from the city across the inlet, up the north arm of the same body of water, to Port Moody and Barnet, to English Bay Cannery, Point Atkinson Lighthouse, Greer's Beach, or any point along the shore. There is a perfect immunity from storms during the summer. Periodical racing meets are held at the east end park at Hastings. This property is leased by the Vancouver Jockey Club from the city, and contains an excellent half-mile track, ^^^A^ which is constantly being im- {-'■ proved. The officers have a reputation for strict_ impartiality and honorable conduct, and as a result numerous horses are entered for the races. The club is on the North Pacific Circuit, and some of the fastest - . •■"., " ^^^^^^»*** At animals on the coast are brought to Caulfeild's Vancouver. The track has an admirable location, and is within easy reach of the city, street cars running within ten minutes' walk, or by water, railway, or vehicle over good roads. The organization of a Golf Club will probably be effected this coming spring*. Links have been secured on Lulu Island, six miles from the city, and easily reached by road or railway. Lulu Island is large and level, situated in the Fraser River Delta, and offers unsurpassed advantages for this king* of games. ^Mountains and ^Mountain-Climbing. Approaching the western portal of Canada, from either the traditional Orient or the illimitable prairie, the first to meet one's eye are the mountains—those magnificent monuments which rear their hoary heights in majestic grandeur along* the whole western confine of the continent. They environ Vancouver, and in addition to the guardian couchant lions, named because of their peculiar shape, are heights and peaks, the glories of which are irresistible. They offer exhilarating* exercise,—for who does not know the inspiration and delight of a mountain climb ?—sport to the hunter, joy to the artistic soul, and health and happiness to all who would seek the unalloyed ozone of the easily attainable altitudes. Mountain climbing* has always been a favorite pastime, and more than ever at the present, since its advantages may be obtained as the results of pleasant recreation. It is in travelling* where the foot of mortal has never or rarely been that one comes in contact with a newer creation ; in climbing all unseen the scaured slopes, to lean alone o'er steeps and foaming waterfalls — "That is not solitude ; 'tis but to hold Converse with Nature's charms, and view her stores unrolled." Snow-capped Mountains, from Vancouver. From the city's streets, and distant but a few miles, can be seen peaks, inviting in their proximity and accessibility. Intervening is Burrard Inlet, a narrow body of water which projects itself inland from the sea, and over which a ferry plies. Three mountain streams debouch opposite the city, and between the valleys of two of them rise four heights, favorite objective points for the jaunt of a summer's day. Thoug-h the topmost covering of snow- lingers till well into the summer, they are particularly free from besetting dangers. Grouse, the lowest, some 4,200 feet high, lies to the east ; Dam Peak, so called because it commands a view of the waterworks construction of the city far below, is immediately west ; Goat climbs five hundred feet to a greater altitude ; and the appropriately designated Crown cleaves the ether a mile above the ocean. Grouse and Goat are the average mountains, and numerous excursions wend their way up the trail over the wooded slope. A half-way house affords an opportunity to those who wou'd rest. Starting in the afternoon from Crown and Grouse Mountains the city the summit may be reached ere nightfall, and the glories delighted in of the close of a summer day, as the untiring disc of dawn wheels slowly into the golden west, and of a sunrise in the mountains, as the approaching spirit of the day announces his coming on the arching heavens. But it is the summit of Crown that offers unequalled beauty. The climb, while arduous as mountain climbing goes, is well worth the effort. Arrangements can be made for the trip, which occupies twenty-four hours. ■Hi Having surmounted the edge of the extinct crater, the cup-like formation of which indents Crown peak to the depth of a thousand feet, there lies before one a panorama which cannot be imagined or adequately described. A glimpse of lake a few hundred feet below, an expanse of sea far beneath, a dotted surface where the city lies, a wooded slope, a stretch of emerald farming land, and south and west the girdling wall of other mountains. Five cities are in view, and another two can be located. Turning to the interior, one sees the mammoth undulations recede far into the diminishing perspective. Range after rang*e rears peak upon peak, ultimately disappearing into the vanishing distance. "ilfcST Mouth of Crater on Mount Crown. Crown peak crater ceased belching flame ages ago, but to-day the formation can be viewed, and is interesting from the fact that it affords a very good idea of the mouth of a volcano. The escarpment rim, a thousand feet above the hollow of the inside declivity, forms the peak of the mountain, and on the top-most pinnacle, not attained except by the hardy-muscled, the steady-nerved, and the daring- lover, has been planted a flag by a previous climber of the precipitous slope. The cup of the crater extends in a circle, a segment of which has crumbled away owing to p Lakes on Sun Mt. Crown i disintegration of time and the destructive forces of the .;•• - elements. From the top of ~s<llfew^ the cup one can look down s^Bis the outside for an almost Ite. sheer 3,000 feet, and in the dizziness of the moment conclude that the great globe itself were trembling. Between Goat and Crown mountains, at an elevation of 5,000 feet, is Alexandra Lake, formed by the melting snows, which keep it cold and clear as crystal. It is four or five acres in extent, with no apparent outlet, and its unruffled s u r f a c e is rarely disturbed. Another lake lies at a little lower altitude. Following the valley of the Capilano River below is the great canyon, 300 feet in depth. This is one of the wonders of the vicinity, and may be reached on foot in three hours from the city. In Seymour Creek valley, an equal distance away, is another, where the gigantic cleaver of a primeval convulsion cleft the rocks in twain, and through the opening the river dashes. Capilano Canyon. The Lions, across the valley to the westward, are free from snow late in the summer, and are often scaled. "The Lions." They are 6,500 feet high, and the ascent and return occupy two days. Other mountains, the beauties of which are extolled by the artist and the pleasure seeker on a holiday, are within convenient distance. One is Mount Garibaldi, over 9,000 feet in height, and reached by way of Howe Sound. This indentation of the sea is one of the most beautiful inlets surrounding the city. Various heights irregularly range either shore, and forty miles from Vancouver is Garibaldi, to all knowledge untrodden by the foot of man. A trail leads from the Sound along the valley of the Squamish river, and is known to the angler, the trapper and the lumberman. From the head of the Sound can be seen the extensive fields of glaciers which feed the mountain streams. These glistening glimpses of formation days extend north and south, and are but a few miles inland. At Powell river is a foaming" fall, the beauties of which have never been exploited. This is about 50 miles up the coast, and adjacent to one of the principal resorts for summer. Steamers from the city carry passengers to the neighborhood of the river, which connects Powell Lake with the ocean. The waterfalls, for there are two, the combined height of which is 63 feet, are half a mile from the sea into which the rapids extend. The scene has been depicted on canvas, and is one of great natural beauty. The coast line extending north from Vancouver is one __: long stretch of mountain scenery, of picturesque inlets, and of islands abounding* with game. Each succeeding summer the scenic environments of Vancouver are becoming known more and more. In the immediate vicinity the attractions are familiar, but it is remarkable how many places within very reasonable distances have hardly been discovered. Pitt Lake, with its islands, mountains and meadowlands, is only an hour away by rail, and steamer or train will carry one to other attractive spots. Harrison Hot Springs is the most frequented resort on the Northern Pacific coast. It is on the shores of Harrison Lake, and rising from the northern end of that body of water is Mount Douglas. Parties have reached the foot of it, but only the prospector and a few adventuresome spirits have as yet scaled its sides. It is a benefitting climb after the strengthening stay at the ""iaPfc* N^.. ! Spring's. £ Jlf Ik /'^^^^*""' Across the Fraser River ^^•^■w '^llil&|i> *s ^e well-known Cheam *•**& ^lll ^; *—^Illl-C peak, the abrupt termin- l^^l^j^^^* "S^^^pP ation of mountains which * ^lillfv range northward without a break from the border line of Washinglon State. This is reached by crossing the river, and starting from the village at the base, in the Chilliwack valley. Though more distant from Vancouver, it has had many climbers. Many have gone by steamer from New Westminster, following the river the entire way. Cheam is just over 8,000 feet high, the altitude having been determined seventeen years ago by the one who placed his name in the bottle still to be found on m ^% Bridal Veil Falls, Pitt Lake. ^s== the top of the peak. The mountain is practically easy ot ascent on the southeastern slope, and can be made in a day. The best plan, however, as in all others, is to arrange to remain over night on the summit, the exhausting effects of the climb not then being experienced. Mount Cheam. Words of description cannot do justice to the delights and benefits of mountain climbing. Every year the advantages of such trips, apart from the mere pleasure, are becoming more generally known, and British Columbia particularly is becoming the field wherein mountain climbers participate in this enjoyment. Alpine guides from Switzerland have been obtained by the Canadian Pacific Railway, in conjunction with the chalets of the company in the Rockies, and pleasure seekers from Europe are journeying westward instead of revisiting the Matterhorn and other places in the Alps. The ranges abound in unknown heights which are being discovered from year to year. For those who fish or shoot there are other pleasures in venturing among-the rugged snow caps. One has but to put foot in the hills to meet the streams where trout abound, and to travel only a short distance for furred game. To those who love the mountains no other part of the world offers such field for enjoyment. It is a land of mountains, cliffs, canyons and waterfalls, with towering pinnacles and enormous trees,—a museum of Nature where grandeur and beauty is unsurpassed. r Fisfyng and Spooling. All seasons lure one to the woods, but none more than the autumn. The paths are sere-leaved, and the golden rod faded, but there is an exhilarating freshness in the air. The whirring grouse flies on thundering wing, and the surprised duck hurriedly departs for safer sloughs. The timid deer crackles ~s—««Sa^je«^^,. ••— --a** the brush as it seeks deeper seclusion. The plaintive chick-a-dee Snapped by the^Camera cheeps his quiet note> and the startling bluejay shrills as he flies from the tree top. A new impulse fills one's soul, and one is conscious of a gratification one cannot understand. What can match the crispness of a morning- in November ? Clear and sparkling- everywhere—the air like nettles stinging- Fires of youth aflame again as with a magic ember, Eyes alight with lustrousness and sluggish steps a-springing ! Sorrow has no place in it. There is such a brace in it— Zounds ! it has a race in it that stirs the blood to singing ! Up and out with dog and gun, the while a joy past naming Thrills with buoyant life again each long inactive member ; Down along the meadowlands, made white with frost}- framing, Through the stretching shadowlands of gaunt and leafless timber. Aren't the pulses tinglesome ? Aren't the heart-strings jinglesome ? Lord ! old wine's not in it with a morning in November ! British Columbia as a sportsman's paradise is known the world over. The name brings to mind big game, birds and fish. It is a field never entirely covered by the hunter, and can hardly be exhausted. Here are the mountain sheep, obtainable only in the rocky fastnesses of far aw*ay heights ; goats hovering on the snow line ; bears, black, cinnamon and grizzly; pheasants, grouse, geese and ducks ; silvery salmon, monster sturgeon and gamey trout. The rarer the game, the more arduous the exploit. Mountain sheep, with their enormous wrinkled horns, are found only after a trip with guides on the remote peaks of the ranges. The sport of hunting them is perhaps the most exhilarating of any, taking one from the haunts of men to where nature reigns supreme. A strong physique and steady nerve is required to bring down these monarchs of the mountains. Goats can be had in the winter months with comparative ease. They are found in the mountains opposite the city, as the snow line descends during December and January, ^mmlm1 j and the heights along the coast are inhabited so thickly by these animals that they may be easily discerned from the decks of passing steamers. Mountain goats are sing*ularly fearless, and that they brave dangers from which other animals flee is attested by incident. Bears are in almost every swamp, but grizzlies are encountered in the mountains where civilization is as yet marked only by the railway. Deer, the favorite game during September and October, are obtained in great numbers all along the coast, at varying distances from the city, and conveniently reached by steamers. Guides, when required, may be obtained at very moderate expense. The mountain lion, or cougar, is one of the dangerous animals •in Biitish-Columbia. It is not often shot, but is taken by the trapper in a deadfall or snare. It is found mainly where deer abound, its common practice being to leap from a tree near a run to the back of the unfortunate animal beneath. Shooting excursions may be had to suit one's pleasure. Near Vancouver may be obtained goats, deer and black bears. At a greater distance, grizzlies on the lower slopes and mountain sheep on the heights. Northward along the coast, or reached via Cariboo, is the Chilcoten District where many varieties of fur-bearing animals abound, and travelled only by the trapper and the hardy prospector. Away in the region of the Arctic Circle are the moose, the rare musk-ox, Snapped in the open and the precious silver fox. It is big* game that is found in British Columbia. Thoug*h smaller varieties abound, affording* good sport, here it is the animals are found which give trophies of which any hunter might be proud. In every district, from the southern, border to the far north, are many mountains and valleys where foot of the hunter has not yet trod. \] 1| Sport ^*^^s^ Disciple s of Izaak Walton may find good fishing by a two hours' walk from the ci ty. I n every gorge in the mountains streams abound, teeming with ^^^^^^^^^""^^^^ i-^^^^^^^^^ trout. Three varieties are the most frequently taken in local waters—the Dolly Varden, the sea trout and the steel-head. These may be caught with the fly during the spring, summer and fall in the creeks surrounding the city and in the inlet opposite. In the earlier portion of the season the flies mostly used are the Silver Doctor, Alexandria, Jock Scott, and the March Brown. Later the Coachman and the Parmachene Belle. Heavy fish are caught with the Devon minnow, and by trolling with a small spoon. During the whole of the summer, and when the streams lower in the early fall, there is no sport so perfect as to entice the finny athletes with seductive fly. Consummate skill is required on the part of the angler to suc- cessfully land his 0 catch. Fisher- ww@£~ men assert that no stream in the |p\§f'- ji A northern part 01 the continent Fishing on Seymour Creek. equals Llllooet ###1^1411' r An Afternoon's Fishing. river, five miles north ox Haney, or the Squamish, at the head of Howe sound. Haney is reached by railway, and the trip to the Squamish is made by daily steamer. The streams finding an outlet in Burrard inlet, opposite the city, afford rand sport to those whose time is limited to a single day. These creeks may be reach ed n an hour or two, and fish varying from one to five pounds in weight may be taken. Rivers reached by the Canadian Pacific Railway are the Coquitlam, 17 miles; the Pitt and tributaries, 22 miles; the Lillooet, via Haney, 27 miles ; the Stave (Ruskin), 35 miles. On the coast, and reached by boat, are a number of streams and small lakes, in every one of which excellent fishing may be obtained. Trout fishing is the angler's sport par excellence, though salmon trolling is a close rival. During September and October salmon are caught in the Narrows, the entrance to Vancouver harbor. The tide at ebb is the most favorable period. Fish, from twenty to thirty inches in length, are taken with any kind of a spoon, and are as gamey as any which in- habit waters. From the end of Decemberto March, spring- salmon, from thirty to fifty pounds in weight, may be taken in the same place, trolling with a herring-. In the winter and spring the herring and blue cod also give sport to the L- angler. These varieties^fc^^, are caught in the narrows with troll and spoon. Few Good Sport for the Hunter. *gg fish for sturgeon on the Fraser River. They are caug*ht, however, from time to time, and are the most prodigious fish taken in local waters, their weight being in the hundred pounds. Proceeding to Haney or Hammond by rail, or to Mission City, boats may be procured. The following list of game in British Columbia, and the districts in which they may be found, is furnished by Mr. John Pugh, a taxidermist of Vancouver and one of the best guides in the Province :— Black bear in any part of British Columbia, being very numerous in Bute inlet, Jervis inlet, and on Vancouver island. Cinnamon bear in Bute and Jervis inlets, Clohome river and Squamish river. Grizzly bear in the same localities but more inland. A few are killed every spring in the Lillooet district. Griffin lake, on the Canadian Pacific Railway, is a g*ood spot for grizzly and cinnamon, and late in April they may be seen feeding on the slides, almost any day. Wolves, both black and grey, are plentiful up the coast, Princess Royal island being* one of the best places to find them. They are also numerous on the upper reaches of the Squamish river. Rocky Mountain goats may be found all over British Columbia, their range extending* from far up the coast to the Rockies. 11 myself have seen on the Squamish river," Mr. Pugh stated, ''bands of from ten to fifteen, at an altitude of about 600 feet from the river." Rocky Mountain sheep are fairly numerous in the Lillooet district, where fifteen and sixteen inch horns are frequently obtained. Lillooet is in the dry belt, and one may always expect the best of weather. They may also be found in the vicinity of the Arrow lakes, Penticton being a good starting point. The sheep on the eastern side of the Rockies have much larg*er heads, but are more difficult to get. Mr. Pugh advises hunters desirous of getting* sheep to start from Ashcroft, where ponies may be had without difficulty. Caribou are plentiful in the Arrow Lake district. A few are also found in the Okanagan district. They are very numerous in the Chilcoten district. Hunters should enter the Chilcoten from Bella Coola, which may be reached by steamer from Vancouver. There is a good road from Bella Coola right into the district. Elk (or Wapiti) are only to be found fon Vancouver island, where they are fairly numerous. They need considerable hunting, as they roam over a very large territory. The incessant rains in the fall make it very disagreeable, and hunters should be well protected ag*ainst the damp. Campbell and Nimpkish rivers are two of the best starting points on Vancouver island for this kind of game. Black tail deer (or coast deer) can be found to no end, all the islands being overrun with them. Mule deer are plentiful in the dry belt, which begins at Lytton and runs eastward. The Cariboo and Lillooet districts are splendid places in which to find them. Beaver are fairly numerous in the Cariboo district, also wolverines and porcupines. Wild fowl, duck, geese and swan are to be found in the fall in great numbers in the Okanagan district, and also about ten miles south of Vancouver, where geese may be seen in flocks of thousands. Ducks are very numerous in November in the sloughs on the Sumas and Matsqui prairies, 40 miles from Vancouver, and on the small lakes. To persons intending to hunt in British Columbia, Mr. Pugh appends a few notes. He says : '* There is no end of game, but to get it requires good hard work and plenty of patience. The Province is very mountainous, the lowland being in some places thickly timbered, which gives great protection to game of all kinds. At a higher altitude there are rock slides to contend with, which, in instances, require nerve and endurance to climb. With regard to clothing best suited to the country, khaki canvas makes the best hunting suit. Leg-gings should be used and good strong boots, with a few heavy Alpine nails in the sole. A boot covered with nails is more dangerous than none at all. British Columbia is a sportsman's paradise, but one L* ,L'-'"'W must be prepared for hard work. The rivers are swift, calling for great skill with the canoe, but men may be had for this purpose. With regard to ammunition, it is cheaper to buy in Vancouver, where anything needed may be secured. In adopting this course, considerable difficulty with customs and transportation is prevented. Undoubtedly, the best fishing in the world is obtained in the Province. The Squamish river is one of the best places. I have seen 79 pounds of trout (Dolly Varden and brook) taken in an hour and a quarter. In five casts I have seen 17 pounds of trout taken." It is a province abounding with such animals that is the grandest .field for sport. The immense branching antlers and clean, blood-like head of the elk, the handsome skin of the sneaking panther, the scimitar-shaped claws of the formidable grizzly, the big-horned head of the mountain sheep,—these are attractive ornaments for a sportsman's home, and some of the most valuable trophies to be obtained anywhere. And when your holiday is finished, you return reluctantly home with strengthened muscles, brightened eyes, and rejuvenated vitality, with the keenest enjoyment of a hunting holiday spent in British Columbia. The open seasons for game in British Columbia are as follows : HUNTING. Big^Game.—Moose (bull), September 1st to December 31st. Females and calves under one year, protected. Deer, September 1st to December 14th. Fawn under one year, protected. Caribou, September 1st to December 31st. Females and calves, protected at all times. Elk (wapiti), September 1st to December 31st. Females and calves under two years, protected. Mountain goat and sheep, September 1st to December 14th. Mountain sheep.—Ewes and lambs protected. r Not more than five caribou may be killed by one person in any season, nor more than ten deer, two (bull) elk, two (bull) moose, two (bull) wapiti, five mountain goat or three mountain sheep (rams). Deer must not be hunted with dogs, or killed for hides alone. Small Game.—Beaver, November 2nd to March 31st. Hare, September 1st to December 31st. Land otter and marten, November 2nd to March 31st. Game Birds.—Bittern, September 1st to February 28th. Duck of all kinds, September 1st to February 28th. Not more than 250 ducks may be shot in one season. Grouse of all kinds, including prairie chickens, September 1st to December 31st. Heron, plover, September 1st to February 28th. Partridge (English), pheasants, quail of all kinds are protected. Insectivorous birds always protected. The buying and selling of heads of mountain sheep is prohibited. HUNTING LICENSE. Non-Residents, other than military men of the British Army and Canadian Militia in actual service in the Province, are required to secure shooting license (fee $50), which may be procured from any Provincial Government Ag*ent. American, or any other non-resident sportsmen, must not export any greater number of animals or birds than are under the Act allowed to be killed, and a schedule of which may be had upon application. FISHING Large grey trout, lunge, touladi, land-locked salmon, March 16th to October 14th ; salmon trout, December 1st to September 30th ; salmon angling, March 2nd to October 30th; speckled trout, March 16th to October 14th ; sturgeon, July 16th to May 31st; Whitefish, December 1st to September 30th. Ti)e Climate. The summer climate of Vancouver, and of all the lower mainland of British Columbia, can be described with no other word than perfect. One must live on the Pacific Coast to see its glories and properly understand them. While the winter is very similar to that of England, considerable rain falling", and, in record seasons at rare intervals, snow being on the ground for a day or two, the summer months have no equal. Spring, with its clarifying* atmospheric conditions, imparting* renewed life to bud and flower, is not particularly distinguishable from the succeeding season except in its shorter hours of daylight, and its more varying weather. But no mistake is possible when the warmer air and glorious nights at last proclaim that summer has arrived. Beginning" sometimes with the middle of June, and at all events with the first of July, there is one unbroken spell of fine weather until late in September and often into October. Daylig'ht begins at a very early hour, as is customary in northern latitudes, and lingers until nine and even ten in the evening. The sun shines unintermittently, and its heat is tempered with the ocean breezes. The temperature during* the summer is very normal, and from the first day of July to the last of August little difference is recorded by the thermometer. The highest temperature recorded by the government observer in the meteorological report of 1901 was 85.6. The salubrious climate of Vancouver is due to the northerly position of the city and the effect of the Japan current. Sheltered from the ocean by Vancouver island, the portion of the mainland on which the city is situated enjoys the balm of the breezes without their chill. The Japan current is of continual duration, moderating* the heat of summer, and ameliorating the cold of winter. It is for this reason that rain falls instead of snow, but the disagreeable qualities possessed in other and colder climes are absent. Extremely low temperatures are unusual, the monthly average for the year of 1901 being 49.62, while the record is made of the lowest descent to 15.4. The rainy months are November and December, but even these are favored with spells of fine weather, when the sun is bright and the air sufficiently warm to permit of bicycling in the park. The early winter months are not without their exhilaration, and while the frost in the air is insufficient to destroy hardy vegetation, it has a beneficial bracing* effect. When snow does fall it remains but for a short time. After January, fine days come more often until the winter, with its vapors and clouds, has disappeared before the genial influences of an early spring. Summer in this part of the world is accompanied with all the beauty that an even temperature and pleasant climate can bring. It is a land of roses and flowers. Bathing begins early and continues till late in the season. Fishing is always g*ood. Boating is an ideal recreation. Picnics and excursions are unmarred by sudden showers, and the delightful length of daylight gives ample opportunity for enjoyment to the extent of physical possibility. Thunderstorms in summer are rarer than the snow in winter. Electrical disturbances of the atmosphere are never experienced, and while thunder may be heard, it is but a momentary peal some distance away. Seasons pass without a storm of this kind. The days are brig'ht and invig*or- ating, the evenings long and balmy, the nights refreshingly cool. Both day and nig'ht there is an absence of oppressive heat and sultriness. The unequalled sunsets are a natural result of the salubrious temperature. They have been compared, not inappropriately, with Italian skies, and artists have • attempted to reduce to canvas the glorious tints which shade the west at eventide. "A slumberous stretch of mountain land far seen, Where the low, westering day, with gold and green, Purple and amber, softly blended, fills The wooded vales and melts among the hills." A Vancouver Sunset. Trips to be oMade from "Vancouver. The following trips may be made from Vancouver :— North Vancouver, where a good hotel is situated, by ferry from the city every hour. From there is reached the quaint old Indian Mission, immediately to the west; Capilano river canyon, the city waterworks construction, Source of Vancouver's Water Supply. 4^ Lynn creek, Seymour river canyon. These are all pleasant trips of two, six, eight or ten hours, as one may wish— wooded mountains, dashing waterfalls, primeval forest. Through North Vancouver is the route taken by parties who climb the mountains across the inlet, delig*htful excursions of a day. Guides may be obtained and all arrang*ements made ere leaving- the city. The view from Mount Crown extends 100 miles. On Burrard inlet are Port Moody and Barnet; and on the north arm of the same body of water, Lake Beautiful landing, the scene of the tunnel operations of the Vancouver Power Company; Granite Falls, and log*- ging* camps. Steamers call at these points every day. Fare, 50c. round trip. All easily reached by launch. A day's pleasant trip. Mountains rise abruptly all round. Lighthouse, Pt. Atkinson Point Atkinson lighthouse, English bay, entrance to Howe sound. By launch, sailboat, skiff or canoe. Howe sound ports—Bowen island, where there is an hotel; Britannia mine, where the largest showing of copper ore in the world is exposed ; Squamish river. Mount Garibaldi can be seen from steamers. Daily boat, fare, $2.00. The round trip may be made in one day, returning at 6.30 p. m., and in such instances the fare is only $1.00. Coast points—Sechelt, a famous Indian village and summer resort, having good camping grounds ; Van Anda, a mining town on Texada island, a summer resort; Lund, a summer resort; Buccaneer bay, a camper's paradise. May be reached by steamers departing different days of the week. On this route are good fishing and shooting grounds, and the scenery is unrivalled. A fine trip for sea breezes. Port Simpson and the Skeena river. Glorious scenery. Round trip made in eig*ht days. Proceeding up the river by steamer, through the rapids, one of the best trips in any country is made. This will add four days. Round trip to Skagway made in eight days. This is a magnificent trip up the coast, passing fiords walled by lofty mountains, skirting islands, and visiting the wonderful Taku glacier, the steamers drawing close up. Excursions are made during the latter part of summer. Plumper's pass, between Reid and Mayne islands. This trip is made in a day, giving* one a view of the unsurpassed panorama of the islands dotting the Gulf of Georgia. Victoria, capital city. Steamer every day. Fine scenic trip. Nanaimo, coal mines. Steamers every day. Steveston, the headquarters of the salmon fishing* industry during the summer. The fifty canneries are in operation during July, August and early September. New Westminster, the building of which commenced in the exciting days of the Cariboo gold rush, 1858 and 1860. Now a prosperous and solid city. Trams to and from every hour. There the construction of the fine new million dollar government bridge across the Fraser River is going on. Canneries are also there. Up the Fraser river from New Westminster steamers run daily. When the boat is opposite Mount Lehman, one of the finest view's of Mount Baker with its triple snow-capped peaks can be obtained. Round +rip made in a day. Fare, $1.00. Pitt River and Lake. An excellent canoeing trip. . Harrison Hot Springs, a curative and summer resort. There also is Harrison lake and Mount Douglas. Weekend excursions, from Friday to Monday, are made in the summer. Round fare on such occasions, $2.50 to Agassiz, stage 50 cents each way to and from the springs. Calendar of ^Attractions. January—Trolling for spring salmon in the Narrows. Herring- and blue cod fishing also g*ood. February—Another month for this kind of sport. Fine and safe. March—Season for trout fishing opens 16th, continuing all summer. April—With the spring, aquatic pleasures commence, and sailing is good until late in the fall. Following the cessation of rain there is excellent bicycling in the city and park. Fishing is g*ood. May—Open air games of all kinds begin. Picnics and small excursions are made. First meet of horse-racing at Hastings Park on 24th. June—One of the most pleasant months, when Vancouver is a city of roses, which continue blooming until late in the fall. Bathing, begins. Race meet on the 15th. Summer programme starts. July—Race meet on Dominion Day. With the commencement of the holiday season, every outdoor sport and pastime is in full swing*. Lacrosse, baseball, cricket, golf and tennis. Band concerts in the park and at the bay. Boating, canoeing, camping*, bathing, bicycling", salmon fishing". Month to view the canneries. Sturgeon trolling begins on the 16th. August—This is the best month for mountain climbing, and special trips are made with guides, leaving Saturday iS afternoons, returning" the following day. Like July, this is another month of unlimited sport, and games beg'un two months previously are continued. Weather moderate. September—Shooting" begins on 1st. Duck, grouse, heron, plover, hare, deer, caribou, elk and mountain goat and sheep may be killed. Trout fishing is particularly good. Salmon fishing in the narrows. Summer sports still continue. Mountains are free from snow- and the ascent is less difficult. October—Ideal time for shooting, fishing and salmon trolling. Trout season closes 14th. Pheasant shooting begins 14th, continuing one month. Wild fowl, geese and grouse. November—With the rains and wind immense numbers of duck are to be found on the small lakes, and in the sloughs on the Sumas and Matsqui prairies. Bears come close in. Goats are low down on the mountains, keeping on the snow line. Beaver shooting begins, also land otter and marten. December—Salmon trout fishing begins 1st. Also whitefish. Deer, sheep and goat shooting closes 14th. Other big game on 31st. Grouse shooting on 31st. ■7?. SB. "Bennett. % Indians and tfyeir Traditions. One of the first sights that attract the eye of the traveller as he approaches the city of Vancouver, whether by boat or by rail, is the picturesque white-robed village of the Squamish Indians on the north side of Burrard Inlet. Situated on the sloping* shores of a sun-wrapped little bay, facing the south, and sheltered from the rigors of the north by a rampart of imposing mountains, it forms an ideal spot for temporary camp or permanent village. Time out of mind—long before the growth of the first forest giants, whose remains now fringe the shores of the inlet, and whose wide- spreading roots still hold in close embrace calcined shells and ashes of camp fires kindled by a race that dwelt here in the days when Roman enterprise was doing for ancient Britain what her sons are in their turn doing to-day for this Indian Family richly dowered Province of the far west—this bay has been a favorite dwelling place for the aboriginal races of this region. The white man's occupation of the country is only a matter of the day before yesterday. The past of this land belong*s wholly to the native races ; and although that past may lack somewhat of the glamor which surrounds the past of such old world centres as Egypt and Babylonia, it nevertheless possesses a distinct interest of its own, and offers both pleasure and profit to the enquirer. In pre-trading days British Columbia, in common with Eastern Canada, was more or less densely peopled by rude, primitive races, and although these have sadly decreased in numbers since their contact with the white man, their representatives are still to be found in most parts of the Province. They are by no means a homogeneous people. There are at least six distinct races, or stocks, as they are termed in America, which speak languages more distinct in grammar and vocabulary than are the Aryan tongnes of Europe. Physically, too, they show themselves to be a diverse people, a large proportion of them approximating more nearly to the Mongol races of Eastern Asia than to the typical North American Indian. Of these six stocks some are larg*er and more widespread than others, notably the Den£ of the northern interior and the Salish of the southern part of the Province. These two stocks are sub-divided into many divisions and tribes having a great number of dialects and sub-dialects, many of which differ among* themselves as widely as Italian does from Spanish or French from Portuguese. The Dene—though still occupying an extensive territory which stretches east and west from within a few miles of the Coast to the Rockies, and, north of the 60th parallel, to the shores of Hudson Bay, and from the latitude of Tcilco Lake on the south to the borders of the Eskimo in the far arctic north—formerly occupied practically the whole of the Pacific littoral from California northwards. They may be justly regarded as the oldest of the native stocks in this region. That they have suffered displacements by intrusive and more recent races, been rent, divided and separated, is quite clear from their present position. Like the scattered boulders that mark the path of the retreating* ice-sheet, isolated groups of them are found throughout this area ; and that terrible scourg*e of the early stockmen and ranchers in the far south, the blood-thirsty marauding Apache and their neighbors the artistic Navahoes of blanket fame, are also members of this ancient stock. The other great stock, the Salish, now extending over the whole of Southern British Columbia from the Kootenay Lakes westward, and stretching southward across the Line into Washington, Oregon, Montana and Idaho, were formerly a more compact and centralized people. Their separation into distinct tribes and divisions is of comparatively modern date. They are without doubt an intrusive and alien race. Recent investigations into their language and history make it quite clear that they are not native to this region. Where their former home was has not yet been definitely determined ; but that it was not the shores and bays or the rivers and streams of the Pacific Slope is absolutely certain. The evidence from Among the Islands. which we gather this, though simple, leaves no room for doubt. It is of the same nature as that by which the unity of the Aryan race is established. The remaining stocks of British Columbia are the Kootenay, the Kwakuitl-Nootka, the Tsimshian -and the Haida. Of these, the Kootenay inhabits the cotintry included between the Rockies and the Selkirks, stretching from the 49th to the 52nd parallel of north latitude, and watered by the upper Kootenay and upper Columbia rivers and their tributaries. They are divided into two groups, namely, the Upper and Lower Kootenays. Their number is a little uncertain, but they are generally set down at one thousand, about half of whom live in this Province and the remainder in the adjacent state of Idaho. The Kwakuitl-Nootka, as their name implies, is a composite race. This stock belongs wholly to the Coast region, the Kwakuitl division inhabiting the coasts of the Province from Gardiner Channel to Cape Mudge, with the exception of the country round Dean Inlet and the west coast of Vancouver Island, the latter comprising the territory of the Nootka division. The Tsimshian are found on the Naas and Skeena Rivers and the adjacent islands. The Haida inhabit the Queen Charlotte Islands and parts of the Prince of Wales Archipelago, and are allied in speech and customs to the Tlingit of Southern Alaska. It will be impossible in this short sketch to treat of the differences in customs, habits, social organizations and beliefs of these races in detail. It must suffice to touch upon a few of the more interesting of them. The British Columbia Indian, like primitive man elsewhere, is by nature a very superstitious person. He peoples his world with all kinds of prseternaturaland magical beings, and believes himself to be very much at their mercy. On this account it is his habit to seek some tutelary influence or spirit to shield and direct him in the affairs of life, or to pin his faith in some charm or fetish. He has no dependence upon, or belief in, any supreme power which controls> and rules the universe. The operation of natural laws, both terrestrial and celestial, are to him the result of the action of semi- human beings, mainly characterized by a greater or less malevolency and a desire to harm and injure him. The land, the water, and the air teem with mysteries, from which he can be protected only by incan- •w. tations and rites performed by one versed in the mysteries, such as a shaman or "medicine-man." Hence the power and influence of these men over their fellows. All these tribes believe in a kind of demi-god or tribal culture-hero, who gave them their primitive tools and utensils, taught them their arts, and instituted their customs. These beings were mighty magicians or transformers, who bewitched or transformed all who displeased or annoyed them. Isolated or peculiar rocks and other prominent objects within their borders are all believed to have been men or beasts which have been transformed for some cause or other by these mystic beings. Among the Salish tribes it is uniformly believed that in the ancient days, before the time of the great transformers, the beings who then inhabited the world partook of the character of both man and animal, assuming the form of either at will. After the advent of the transformer they were mostly changed, some to animal or vegetal form, and some to human, but the two former, as well as the latter, still possess human or semi-human shades or spirits, and these sometimes appear to people. Their myths and stories are in consequence full of the doing's and sayings of human-like animals, and their demi-gods and tribal heroes not infrequently bear the names, and are conceived under the forms, of birds or beasts. Among* the northern coast tribes, for instance, the Raven is believed to be the creator of themselves and of their country, and great respect and reverence were formerly paid to all birds of this species. The Haida and Tlingit myths are full of the doings and sayings of Yaylth, the Raven. Among the southern coast and Fraser Delta tribes, Skelau, the Beaver, takes the place of the Raven of the north, while the tribes of the interior put Snikiap, the Coyote, in the forefront of their celestial hierarchy ; and many and curious are the stories of the doing and pranks of these creatures. Space will not permit of giving more than a brief example of these stories, and as the Squamish are particularly rich in this kind of lore, one of their shorter stories is selected as example— y~- '—- -irir . r^T-T iff if gMMBf' ~—~ lyPT—mlW FOLK-LORE. Skaukw and Kwaietek ; ot, the Oziain of Daylight. Very long ago in the ancient days it was always dark, the daylight being* then shut up in a box and carefully stowed away in the dwelling of Kwaietek, the Sea-gull, who alone possessed it. This condition of thing's had gone on for a long time when Skaukw, the Raven, determined to make his brother Kwaietek share his precious treasure with the rest of the world. So one day he made some torches, and, lighting some, went down to the beach and sought when the tide was out for Skwatsai (sea-urchin's eggs). Having found as many as he required, he took them home, and, after eating the contents, placed the empty shells, with their spines still attached to them, on a platter. Stealthily taking- these to Kwaietek's house, he spreads them over his doorstep, so that he cannot come out without treading upon them and running- the spines into his feet. Next morning when Sea-g'ull came out of his dwelling he trod upon the shells and ran several of the sharp spines into his naked feet, which made them so sore that he was obliged to keep indoors and nurse them. Later in the day Raven came along*, ostensibly to pay a friendly visit, but really to see how far his stratagem for procuring the Skwail or Daylight had been successful. He finds Sea-g'ull laid up, unable to walk. "What is the matter, brother Kwaietek ?" said Raven." "Oh !" responded he, "I think some of your children must have been playing on my doorstep last nig*ht and left some sea-eggs there ; for this morning", as I was leaving the house, I trod upon some, and the spines must have pierced my feet, and now they are so sore and swollen in consequence that I cannot put them to the ground without pain." "Let me look at them," said Skaukw ; "perhaps I can find the spines and take them out for you." So saying, he took hold of one of his brother's feet and pretended to take out the sea-urchins' spines with his stone knife. He dug" the instrument in so roug-hly and g*ave Sea-gull so much pain that the latter cried out in his agony. "Am I hurting you?" questioned Raven. "It is so dark I cannot properly see what I am "^ doing-. Open your Skwail-box a little and I shall be able to see better." Sea-gull did as the other suggested, and slightly opened the lid of the box in which he kept the daylight. Skaukw continued, however, to hack away at his foot under pretense of taking the spines out, and presently Sea-gull cried out ag'ain. "It is your own fault if I hurt you," said Raven. "Why don't you give me more light? Here, let me have the box." Sea-g-ull gave him the box, cautioning him the while to be careful and not open the lid too wide. "All rig-ht,"said Raven ; and he opened the lid about half way. Then he made as if to continue his operation on Kwaietek's foot, but as soon as he turned round he swiftly threw the lid of the box wide open and all the Daylig'ht rushed out at once and spread itself all over the world and could never be gathered again. When Kwaietek preceived what Skaukw had done, and that his precious Skwail was gone from him, he was greatly distressed and cried and wept bitterly and would not be comforted. Thus it is that the sea-gulls to this day never cease to utter their plaintive cry of K'n-ni — i, K'n-ni—i. ^MARRIAGE CUSTOMS. The customs of primitive races, when compared with our own, are often very interesting-. Some of the most interesting of these are their marriage customs. These differ in almost every settlement and tribe. Among- some of the Salish tribes it was formerly the custom when a young- man took a fancy to a girl and desired to make her his wife, to go to the house of the girl's parents and squat down with his blanket wrapped about him just inside the door. Here he was supposed to remain for four days and nights without eating or drinking. During this period no one of the girl's family takes the slightest notice of him. The only difference his presence makes in the house is to cause the parents to keep a bright fire burning all night. This is done that they may readily perceive that he takes no advantage of his proximity to the girl to make love to her or otherwise molest her during the night. On the fourth day, if the suitor is acceptable to the parents, the mother of the girl asks some neighbor to acquaint the youth that they are willing- to accept him as their son-in-law and give him the girl. To himself they say nothing, nor in any way take the slig'htest notice of him ; and as no communication of any kind can take place between the girl's people and the young man at this stage of the proceedings, this neighbor now cooks a meal for the fasting* lover, and informs him at the same time that his suit is acceptable to the family. Indian Boys Pi After the young man's acceptance by the girl's parents in the manner described, the youth returns home, and in a few days comes back for his bride, accompanied by all his friends and relatives. He bring*s with him a great number of blankets and other gifts. These he distributes to the bride's relatives. He and his friends are now entertained for the rest of the day by his prospective father-in-law, and accommodation is afforded them for the night. The following day, after a good meal has been indulged in, all go down to the beach to where the bridegroom's canoe is moored, the parents of the bride taking with them a number of blankets, wfiich they put into the canoe. If the bride is a person of rank, the whole course from the house to the beach is covered with a line of blankets for her to walk upon, and two old women as maids-of-honor lead her down to the canoe. The bride is dressed for the occasion in all the bravery of bright-colored blankets and what other ornaments she may possess. Over her head, completely en- veloping her, a blanket is thrown as a kind of bridal veil. Behind her come the female slaves of her father's household carrying all her personal belongings, such as mats, baskets, blankets, wooden platters, spoons, etc. The bridesmaids place the bride in the bow of the canoe, after which, etiquette demands that the bridegroom shall reward them for their services by a gift of one or more blankets each. The parties now separate. Some days later the girl's parents and friends pay a visit to her husband's home, bringing with them blankets and other presents equal in number and value to those bestowed upon themselves. These are distributed to the son-in-law and his friends, after which all partake of a feast, which closes the marriage ceremonies, and thereafter the girl and youth are regarded by all as man and wife. Sometimes the suitor is not acceptable to the girl's parents, and after a family council has been held he is rejected. A friendly neighbor is called in as before to act as intermediary and convey to him the decision of the parents. If the youth has set his heart on the girl, he W/ill now try and induce her to elope with him. If she refuses to do this, he has perforce to give her up and seek a wife elsewhere. If, however, she consents, he seizes the first opportunity that offers and carries her off to the woods with him, where they remain together for several days. If the objection to the young man on the part of the girl's parents is not deep-rooted, he is now permitted to keep the girl as his wife on payment to them of a certain number of blankets. If, however, they object even now to have him as a son-in- law, they take the girl from him and it is understood on both sides that he is to trouble her or them no further. This was the custom among Squamish. Among* other tribes of the Salish the rejected suitor adopts other methods for overcoming* the objection of the girl's parents. Among the Yale tribe, for instance, when he learns that his suit is unfavorably received, he goes to the r forest early the next morning and cuts down a quantity of fire-wood of the kind most esteemed among the Indians. This he takes to the house of the girl's father and starts a fire for the inmates. If the girl's parents are serious in their objection to him as their daughter's husband, they will take both fire and wood and throw them out of the house. But the youth is in no wise daunted by this, and repeats his action on the following morning, when they do the same as before. On the' third morning he does the same, and unless there is some unusually grave objection to him, it is now intimated to him that his suit will be acceptable. This is done, not by word of mouth, for no communication must ever take place between the parent and the suitor at this stage of the proceedings, but by the elder members of the family coming and sitting round the fire he has built and warming their hands over it. By this action the youth knows that he has won his bride and that his perseverence is not to go unrewarded. He presently joins them at the morning meal, and the conclusion of the affair from that moment follows much the same course as already described. cARCHAZOLOGICAL "REMAINS. The monuments of the past left us bv the old-time Indians are of several kinds. The most important of these are their tumuli or burial cairns, their totem poles and commemorative columns, and their kitchen-middens. The last named are formed from the ashes and other debris of camp life. Some of these heaps are of enormous dimensions, covering acres of land and having a depth of from one to twenty feet ! The vicinity of Vancouver is particularly rich in these vestiges of earlier aboriginal life. The shores of Burrard Inlet, Stanley Park, False Creek, and the banks of the Lower Fraser abound in them. But almost in every locality they will be found to be of two classes, namely, modern formations and more ancient formations. The more ancient heaps are readily distinguished from the modern. They are invariably covered with vegetation and have some of the largest and oldest trees in the district growing upon them, plainly showing their age and their long abandonment. The writer's early investigations among these middens revealed the important fact that at the time of their formation a race physically different from the present Salish tribes had its home here. What has happened to this race we cannot say. It has been displaced, annihilated, or absorbed by the intrusive Salish. These old midden piles are doubly interesting to us from the fact that they are now practically the only source left from which we may gather specimens of the tools, Arrow-heads, found 1 • Lytton. implements and weapons employed by the natives in pre- trading days. Extensive investigations have been carried on among these heaps by the leading museum authorities of the Eastern States, and thousands of dollars have been spent upon this work since the writer first drew attention to the archaeological riches of this Province, some eight years ago. Our own Provincial Museum possesses some good specimens of native technology, but the finest collections of the kind are to be found in the Natural History Museum of New York and the Field-Columbian Museum ^^^^^^^ of Chicago. It is to be re- ||P^S^2 "** gretted that the people of this J^O^Tt^l^^ Province have allowed outsiders WSjr * aj m1|| to carry away from our midst Jt$F*^|rL , ^**^^H so many j interesting relics of the past, and been so lax in securing them for ourselves. The day is not far distant when they will be wholly unobtainable. The totem-poles and commemorative columns are peculiar to the northern coast tribes. They are found among the northern Kwakuitl, the Tsimsh- ian, the Haida and their con- Carving on Stone. g-eners the Tlingit; but they are truly characteristic of the latter stock only, the others having clearly borrowed them from the Haida-Tlingit. This stock is noted for its artistic' powers. Its carvings and sculptures are justly famous the whole world over. These poles and columns are constructed from solid cedar trunks, varying* in size from one to five feet in diameter, and in height from five to fifty or sixty feet. From top to bottom they are covered with grotesquely conventionalized animal and human figures in relief. These fig*ures on the totem-poles represent the family and personal totems, or tutelary guardians, of the owner; and on the columns they symbolize historic events in the life of the person in whose commemoration they are erected. These singular monuments of earlier days are fast disappearing, some by natural decay, but more by the enterprise of the relic hunter. It would be interesting to speak of these monuments and other artistic objects among the Haida in detail, and say something- of the dress, ** food, dwelling's, customs and secret societies tfWS>*k, of these northern tribes, but space forbids ^*fe* on this occasion. A few words must, Totem-Pole. however, be added on the burial mounds or tumuli of this region. These, like the old middens, are the monuments of a forg-otten race. Not one that the writer has examined or has any knowledge of belongs to the modern tribes. They are scattered up and down the Province, usually on the bank of a river or on some rocky eminence overlooking lake or sea. There are many types of them, but the most common are characterized by the following features : A rectangular or circular periphery of varying dimensions, formed by a wall of rocks or boulders, in the central space of which the corpse was laid and then covered up with a huge heap of stones. Sometimes they were left in this condition ; at others, the pile of rocks as well as the enclosing wall was covered with clay and sand of different kinds in alternating* layers, the whole forming a huge mound originally many feet in height. Upon the central strata of some of these, sacrifical or mortuary fires have been built, which have left a distinct stratum of ashes and charcoal. Sometimes it appears that the corpse was first cremated and its ashes only placed in a kind of cist in the centre of the mound. One remarkable peculiarity of these tombs is that each one contained only one body. Scores have been opened, but in every instance the evidence of single interment is clear and unmistakable. This is the more remarkable when the time and labor necessary to the construction of these sepulchres is considered. The modern Indians of this region, as far as they know themselves or their traditions reveal, never disposed of their dead in this manner. The usual mode of burial with them was to place the doubled-up body in a blanket or box and suspend it from the branches of a tree, or to place it on some lonely island or in a slab-hut prepared for the purpose in the woods. They have no knowledge of these homes of the dead or of those who erected them. They undoubtedly antedate their advent here. This short sketch of the native races of this region may best be concluded in the words of the veteran ethnologist, Horatia Hale—"No other field of ethnological J r research," says he, in the sixth report on the northwest tribes of Canada, B. A. A. S., "is to be found in North America which equals this Province in interest and value. Indeed it may be questioned whether anywhere on the globe there can be found within so limited a compass so great a variety of lang*uages, of physical types, of psychical characteristics, of social systems, of mythologies, and, indeed, of all the subjects of study embraced under the general head of anthropology." Chas. Hill-Tout. Indians Packing I I Ti)e Fraser "Valley. The beautiful valley of the lower Fraser and the shores of the inland sea between Vancouver island and the mainland of British Columbia, which is so often called the California of Canada, is immediately adjacent to and practic- J Mount Baker, from Fraser River. ally surrounds the City of Vancouver. For detailed information as to crops, soil, climate, market prices of farm produce and available land in this favored farming district, intending settlers or homeseekers should write any of the real estate firms in the city, whose names can be secured by writing the Secretary of the Vancouver Tourist Association. Hotel ^Accommodation. Vancouver has excellent hotel accommodation and a large number of private boarding houses. Rates are the same as other coast cities. The Vancouver Tourist Association invites you to visit their rooms and Free Information Bureau, 439 Granville Street, near the Post Office. Have your mail addressed in our care. Everything in connection with this Association is absolutely free. It is a voluntary organization of business men, supported by their own Subscriptions, for the purpose of making* the attractions of Vancouver known to those in search of health and pleasure, and also for the purpose of making strangers in the city feel at home. The Bureau of Information endeavors to supply to strangfers and others anv information relative to the Citv or Province. Samples of fruits, grains and grasses of the different sections of the country are on exhibition. Guide books and maps, the leading newspapers, time-tables, and railway and government literature can also be found here. Special pains will be taken to answer correspondence from enquirers. For any further information, write the Secretary of the Vancouver Tourist Association, Vancouver, British Columbia. The following- copyright photographs have been used in compiling- this booklet: "Mount Cheam," "On the Waterfront," "Salmon Fishing Scene."—Copyrighted by S. J. Thompson, Granville street, Vancouver, B. C. "Bathing at English Bay," "The Lions."—Copyrighted by Edwards Bros., Granville street, Vancouver, B. C. 1
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[Vancouver] : Vancouver Tourist Association
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Vancouver, British Columbia : the sunset doorway of the Dominion
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