CONTENTdm
C.P.R. steamships
Canadian Pacific Railway Company
Travel
Tourism
Steamboats
Ocean travel
Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection
Scidmore, Eliza Ruhamah
Pamphlet with tourist information on Japan and China. Includes Japanese words and phrases with translations. Eleventh edition. Two copies.
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A <y3 yy^c^i^^r <nj- jc,naC |WE STWARD TO THE FAR EAST BY ELIZA RUHAMAH SCIDMORE ELEVENTH EDITION ISSUED BY THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY COMPANY 1905 P R E F A C E "Westward to the Far East" is intended to supply general information in a concise form to those who may be desirous of visiting Japan and China, as well as to serve as a guide to those visiting these portions of the Orient by the Canadian Pacific Route. It tells the possible traveller what there is to be seen and the actual traveller how to see it, and it should be interesting to the one and useful to the other, so that while being a trustworthy guide to those travelling in the countries described, it will teach others much about China and Japan which cannot fail to interest them. Those who have made up their minds to take this enjoyable trip will, of course, require information — -which being subject to change is not found in the guide-book — concerning sailings of steamships, baggage allowances, tickets, connections, etc., for which application should be made to one or other of the Canadian Pacific Railway Company's agents. And such intending travellers will probably like to have the companion volume, "The New Highway to the Orient," a handsomely illustrated pamphlet, which tells with greater detail of the journey across the continent, and which the agents of the company will furnish with pleasure to anyone desirous of reading it. ROBERT KERR, Passenger Traffic Manager, Canadian Pacific Railway. FUJIYAMA s-^&» Westward to the Far East i. " Pass not unmarked the island in that sea, Where Nature claims the most celebrity, Half hidden, stretching in a lengthened line, In front of China, which its guide shall be, Japan abounds in mines of silver fine And shall enlighten'd be by holy faith divine." —Camoens, The Lusiad. When Columbus set sail he expected to find not only a shorter route to the Indies, but also the great Zipangu, of whose palace walls of solid gold Marco Polo had heard at the Peking court of Khublai Khan. When the great admiral had left San Salvador and sighted Cuba, he was sure that Zipangu, or Jeh Pun, the Land of the Rising Sun, lay before him. Columbus failed, but Ferdinand Mendez Pinto—type of Con- greve's "liar of the first magnitude"—arrived in 1542 and made possible the worlq of St. Francis Xavier and the early Jesuit Fathers, but for whose interference with political affairs, the country would not have been closed to all foreign intercourse until Commodore Perry's visit in 1853. Fortunately for us, Japan, "the child of the world's old age," was held in reserve for this generation, and this exquisite country—different in itself from all the rest of the world and anything on this side of the planet, as quaint and unique, as beautiful and finely finished as one of its own netsukes or minute works of art—delights the most jaded traveller, charms every one who visits it, and gives them much to think about and ponder over forever after. Within a few )rears, pleasure til!'! ift!t-'l travellers around the world have more than quadrupled, and a girdling of the earth is now the grand tour which a little round of continental Europe used to be. The trip to Japan for Japan's sake alone is an affair of a few weeks only. Time and distance have been almost annihilated by modern machinery, and the trip from New York to Yokohama takes 10 longer now than did the trip from New York to Liverpool but a few years ago. Ten days after leaving Yokohama the Empress of Japan had arrived at Vancouver, and in less than fifteen days from leaving Japanese shores its passengers were in New York and Boston. Inside of sixty days one may leave New York, cross the continent and the Pacific, spend four weeks in the cities and famous places of Japan, and return again to New York; where, if he commit himself to Atlantic ships and waves, he will remember and more keenly appreciate the delights of the Pacific voyage. Each year is changing and Europeanizing Japan the more, and the sooner he goes the more Japanese the tourist will find it. Every season is a good season, each month has some special attraction. The time of the cherry blossoms is the gala season of the year, and the streams of travel up from India and over from America crowd the hotels, put guides at a premium, and for several months afterward eastbound steamers across the Pacific are filled to their last berths. The rainy seasons of June and September and the heat of midsummer oppress many, but from the first days of the poetic springtime to the end of the chrysanthemum season and the long-drawn autumn, the outdoor life gives an interest and color which the wintry months lack. In midwinter, Tokyo is crowded, Parliament is in session, the Court is in full social activity, pageants and holidays are many, and even at its worst the weather is a gentle contrast to that of the continent across the Pacific. II. The traveller who arrives from Europe by way of the St. Lawrence river enters the new world by its grandest gateway. Quebec, the most picturesque city of the continent, is a quaint bit of mediaeval France in its older quarter, and all the eighteenth jion as a |ive p^eserv^cl tJSjpre^jKds of the romances h^v^u^niife and between A daylight trip up the H«^n an|f night in a sleeping car, put as in an hotel, he behold^^^eApaporama is revealed to him eyary physical* featu century struggle for the possession di. the new continent is recalled at the sight of Quebec's lofty ciradeLand the high Plains of Abraham where Wnpc ^il^Iontcalnw^et^^sulendid modern hotel, the ChateaHKron^nac; clings io the .(H^^^lie cliff, and from its windows and nis|f ^^fices \ne vk^s y^' relief map. Parkman's hiiron earlier days, and Gilbert Parke^ color and associations to all nf^Jw prance that Quebec and the lakes. .^"""n Montreal is distingj|w*y.JlmVttln ano contrast, and one feel#the/b**^fh^sg, res' the new-world Anglo-Saxon ak sQonasf^K LaAj^an anjruf^x t£lM tran sCk' traveller at the beginning <^hip }ou&0& Montreal to Vancouver, theKhrmd hi|pnlYa Canadian Pacific Railway ItmdJ tljEContin joins the two ocean tides^cLif pmy a bro In luxurious cars, whereAie^nnes and s la o ire great lakes^the grea/t riveiKT^iej/^lains and swamps, ancK£f£fflx the sgiswe^t mountai nent succee^ryne another luihe' rapidly moving pictures tliatjfcease only when the engine slows up side by side with the'^^Si.white stej^nship tMt l£ito convey the traveller across the ocronft^amhat ol\||r--wortp^vlicjjre the human race began. i^Wrth^swunotated Time Table—the most excellent andlise- TpTpfec^Qfe fajhvay literature ever devised—the tourist has alkey ,ai#i)^u^s\|^e-^ew of the continent beside him, and with hisftwn peireih(hg§\lj\- me way on its blank leaves, it becomes the commote jgm-^&J^ncT^cord of his days on the overland train. There 1| a nla|robject lesson in geology and botany to be studied through qar \S9»Jkrtirs each day, and much of ethnology as well. At first tftc t^riniraces through a half-covered glacier garden, and the marl .QjjjKeJgreab ice sheet that ground down the Laurentian slopes aJ so^iajn that one expects some next turn to show a rumpled ic! sH§£rhhp<|uring through a ravine, rather than another lake encir' ch!^^ me forest. 3*hen the view ranges out over that inland sea, Lake Superior* "brother of the ocean," whose north shore is the paradis£ of sportsmen and anglers, and one glimpses lakes, 3|ajA[white streams and rushing rivers whose names are synonyms^f trout— six-pounders, too. At Fort William, the travellers who have chosen the lake route from Owen Sound across Lake Huron and through the picturesque Sault Ste. Marie to Lake superior Superior, join the train, and at Moose Jaw, away out on the prairie, the Chicago and St. Paul and Middle States contingent via the "Soo-Pacific" Route are waiting. As the train fills with other trans-Pacific voyagers, each tourist is convinced that all the world is bound for Japan, and that his particular party is but a fraction of some great excursion. Winnipeg, the prairie city, distanced all records of booming towns when the railroad reached the Selkirk Settlements on Red River, isolated for a hundred years in the heart of Winnipeg the continent. A busy western city grew like magic around the old Hudson's Bay Company fort, and instead of exchanging beads and paint with Indian trap- peus, that mercantile corporation displays the latest fashions in plate glass show windows and maintains a general store for city needs. The main street, with its handsome buildings, its large hotels, electric lights and electric cars, is busy at all times of the year, but most picturesque in midwinter, when everyone wears fur garments and sleigh-bells jingle in the dry, electric air. Winnipeg is the half-way house of the continent, and all beyond that point is the far, golden, remote, wide West, full of wonders, picturesqueness, wild life, and adventure. The prairies, level as placid seas or rolling like the ocean in its storms, stretch unbroken to the base of the Rockies. The grassy plains, where the buffalo roamed by millions, are now mosaiced with wheatfields, checkered with these squares of intens- est green or golden yellow grain, or the black *T-II p <ri O ^ O prairies °^ pl°wed loam, and tall elevators stand by the tracks like lighthouses on the level sea. The noble Blackfeet and Crees crouch on the station platforms at Qu'Appelle, Moose Jaw,'Swift Current and Medicine Hat selling polished buffalo horns, or polished ox horns, which do as well for the tourist trade, and hiding their heads from amateur photographers until paid to pose. Near Medicine Hat the Crow's Nest Pass Railway branches off to the left to the great cattle country of Southern Alberta, and forms a short route from the East to the gold fields of the Kootenay. The Northwest Mounted Police, alert for smugglers and disturbers of the Indian peace, show their gay uniforms at all these prairie stations, and are as favorite subjects for touch-the-button photographers as the retired red warriors. At daylight, a high blue wall bars the west, resolves itself into spurs, peaks and long, overlapping ranges, and shows a more impenetrable front as the train races toward it and ploughs into a cleft at its base. One enters the rockies mountains and leaves the plains behind as abruptly as if he had passed through a door in an artificial wall. The whole world changes. Mountains tower about one, each one rising alone and. distinct from the narrow level of the valleys; each mountain as sharp, free cut and isolated as a pyramid built by human hands. Geology and world-building are written as plainly as printed text, and the processes by which these masses were uplifted are so apparent, that one can fancy the strata still in motion, groaning and creaking as they, are forced up and bent almost at a right angle with their old horizontal levels. Even the most hurried tourist should spend a day at Banff, just within the mountain wall. The Canadian Government has reserved a National Park twenty-six miles long and ten miles wide, and in its midst, surrounded by the Banff finest peaks, sections of strangely and magnificently tilted strata, the Canadian Pacific Company has provided a perfect hotel. The building is perched on a knoll above the blue Bow River, and commands such views toward every point of the compass that only a revolving room on the roof could give the guest the outlook he most desires. He may rejuvenate himself in the magic hot sulphur waters in a hotel tub, or he may plunge into a natural swimming pool of warm water in a domed cave; and by horse, foot, wheel and boat he may explore the surrounding Rocky Mountain Park for weeks without exhausting its wonders. From Banff to Laggan the scenery is most magnificent and the Rockies equal all of one's expectations. Gigantic peaks and bat- tlemented walls enclose the narrow valley, and glaciers and snow fields clothe the upper reaches, beyond and among which lie the so-called Lakes of the Clouds, bits of water framed in mountain walls that rival the best of Swiss and Norwegian scenery. A three-mile waggon road has been cleared through the pine woods from Laggan to Lake Louise, the beginning of cloudland. The railway company has built a chalet near the lake shore, where the tourist may enjoy all creature comforts if he wishes to prolong his stay and dwell awhile in the wilderness. Lake Louise, with its tremendous peaks and precipices, its glaciers and snow fields, its stretch of mirror waters that nearer ra&^»£^®^!95!H? • LAKE LOUISE (LAKES IN THE CLOUDS) show a depth of color unapproached by the other lakes, has drawn forth all the adjectives its visitors TH E LAKES IN jd B d THE CLOUDS ^. T , . • , , Mirror Lake, still further up among the clouds, is a pool of different hue, more closely hemmed by mountain walls, striped, overspread and finely fretted with snow banks. Every detail shows double, the clearest and sharpest reflections covering the whole unruffled surface of the Lake. There are magnificent views down to the Bow Valley and across to further ranges as one follows these upper trails, picking his way in and out of forests, and across acres of heathery pink and white brianthus and pale green Cassiopeia, and beds of bluebells, gentians, cyclamens, anemones, daisies, buttercups, and Indian pinks. The edelweiss is found by the snow banks of Lake Agnes, third and last in the trio of lakelets. The wonders of the Rockies are not nearly exhausted when one takes train again at Laggan. Soon Mt. Stephen looms, first ahead and then directly overhead, as one is tobogganed down the canon at its base. It takes more than two looks to reach to the top, precipitously as it fronts one, and the mountain plays fantastic tricks with the eye as the train moves away from it—the domed mass suddenly bounding from behind a ridge, rising, swelling and seeming to advance toward one as the engine shrieks and madly races away from it. One leaves Field station with the greatest reluctance when he learns that the recently discovered Ta- kakkaw Falls are reached in a day by horse trail through a real wilderness. Another great mountain range bars the way and the 10 TAKAKKAVV FALLS, YOHO VALLEY, B. C. u ILLECILLEWAET ~ VALLEY train ascends through this canon of canons to the summit of the Selkirk range. The views backwards, below, across and overhead are more and more magnificent as one catches glimpses between the tunnels. After gaining the ridge, the train races from Rogers' Pass down to Glacier station, where another of the company's hotels invites the traveller to stay, and Swiss guides direct from Zermatt fire him with a zeal to equal Conway's and Wilcox's climbs. The hotel is 4,300 feet above either ocean, and the broad stream of Illecillewaet Glacier THE GReat is seen curling over illecillewaet and pouring down glacier the slope at the end of the great horseshoe valley. Advancing only one foot a day, the sun matches its might against the ice and keeps the forefoot of the glacier almost stationary at the head of the ravine. One may see the glacier very satisfactorily from the car window and note the pale greens and blues of the crevasses breaking the glimmering surface ; but he who stops may walk a mile and a half through the woods and, mounting the grimy ice cliffs, wander as far as he will over the crackling surface. It is a magnificent descent, by loops and curves and amazing turns, past shelves where one looks straight down two hundred feet to the Illecillewaet in its narrow flume. Then there opens the broad valley between the two revelstoke mountain ranges where the young Columbia pours its current southward. The town of Revelstoke is an alternative point of departure for the West Kootenay country, and the company has erected another of its model hotels on a terrace beside the railway station. There is a fine view from its piazzas down the great valley, to shimmering heights converging in far distance, and when time admits the European tourist will find something of wild western mining life and backwoods picturesqueness in the trip to the Kootenay Lakes. Crossing the youthful Columbia again, the train climbs a third mountain range and by the Eagle pass of the Gold Range reaches the shore of the great Shuswap Lake. There follow next_ the sunrise lights on the painted cliffs, the rose and orange, vermilion and umber walls of the steep canon of the Thompson River. Last comes the splendid race with the Fraser to the sea, and a final speeding through the Cascade forests, where trees of gigantic size, a tangle of ferns and densest undergrowth tell of a new climate and conditions, the other shore, the Cordilleran slopes of the continent. At Vancouver a still larger and better hotel has been provided by the same far-seeing company, and although in the heart of the town, its site affords it a fine mountain outlook. Vancouver The radiant pyramid of Mount Baker against the eastern sky hangs as a drop curtain at the end of one street and straight before one the mountain wall across the harbour stretches like another scenic piece. A lake behind that wall furnishes the city's water supply, the pipes laid in the bed of the harbour in whose deep, transparent green waters float such large and richly colored jelly-fish and medusae as one only expects to find in tropic waters. At low tide, the piles of the older wharves offer such an aquarium and museum of marine life as would be worth an admission fee on the Atlantic coast. A street of trim English villas, with beautifully-kept lawns and gardens, becomes a roadway through the forest primaeval, and the nine miles of carriage road through Stanley Park show one a forest as dense as a tropical jungle. Where the sombre Douglas spruce grows thickest, there is only a dim, green twilight under their branches at noonday, and the road is a mere tunnel through the original forest. Bushes, vines, ferns and mosses riot there, cedars of mammoth proportions amaze one, and the voyager should even rise before the lark, rather than leave without seeing what a northwest coast forest is like. Nothing that could be devised in those Lancashire yards was omitted to make the Empresses triumphs of the shipbuilder's arts. Strength and speed were first considerations, and steamships w^ t^1" steel hulls, double bottoms, watertight compartments, twin screws, triple expansion engines and straight record of over nineteen knots an hour, the conditions were more than fulfilled. First, for the comfort of the passengers the ships were painted white, making a difference of many degrees temperature between decks in southern waters, and giving them a spick and span look. Four hundred and eighty-five feet in length and fifty-one feet beam, with hurricane deck, cabins and staterooms amidships, there is space, air and steadiness to be enjoyed by the one hundred and fifty cabin passengers which each ship can carry. Electric lights and electric fans are provided, and steam heat cheers and comforts on the northern parallels. Chinese servants in caps and rustling blue and white blouses minister silently with velvet tread, automatic in their perfection, and the steward's crew are drilled to the wants of the clubmen and gourmets of the Far East, where dinner is a far more important and serious affair than in England itself. The traveller soon adopts "boy" as the appellation of every kind of servant, his luncheon becomes "tiffin," he claps his hands quite as much as he rings the bell or presses the button, and the yellow servitors appear as quickly and silently as Ram Lai, with his key-hole CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY COMPANY'S "EMPRESS" STEAMSHIP entrances and cloud exits; and the ease, the luxury, and all the creature comforts of the Far East begin to work their spell before many Pacific meridians are left behind. III. When the "blue peter" of ante-sunset departure flies at the masthead of an Empress, Vancouver keeps an eye on the inlet, and when the ship sails, all the ship's friends and the western leisure class gather on the wharf to cheer and speed it on its way— usually before sixteen o'clock in the afternoon. Threading the inlet's narrow eye of entrance, the Empress glides for four hours »3 over the still, island-studded before it reaches the odi Orient, away from the N West into the East. Passing between San stretches of the Gulf of Georgia #n jjsdbegins th»„fcoyage to the "o^rh^iirld " d, out of the ;\>T isfcw^k, the shin slows for a few minutes off>P?r¥ outside whanres of Victoria. -Xim pilot clambers down to a waiting boat, carrying la^t^tters apcl messages ashore, and the last passengers The city of Victoria is all but hidden f and intricate harbour, and the naval declares itself by the mp' v'ctoria the tree-tops. No one shou arwioU/iits rocte-iijm: mimed IBjgquimalt only T>wing beyond i away thinking he has seen all, when he ha^hlfrvisited the one city of Victoria on the Western continent. Other cities named for Queen Victoria have each their ^^y^j^charm, but the Capital of Vancouver is not surpassed. '^pejjgBbre scenery grows finer as the ship, heading almost due wesij^r^^hrough the Straits of Fuca, the mythical straits of Jmi^fRPwIows the sinking sun. The Olympic range stands as a/giant slPwall along the Washington shore, the Angel||NGat& sgygap in the range just over the town of Port Angeles, sh^pftrjjlg Jggplendid snow peak in far perspective. a parkfline ^pd cultivated tracts by roken wilcisEfess *hat clothe the summlwC Ej|Cjfe "Rcdc JLj^ht, a mere e steamer aaf^^vith»^^^^ion Jack te light by i^^w^Fai^fr-oss, Cape with the S0fa <Lj^d^t.ri-^e§, and then, fiv, there lies •ty^xi&tb^E'mpress the i setS5&|£ sun. rLses, and miles begins at Wk\Agth parallel of okohama lies at 35 degnfies 20 minutes jfty going further north ifnkte the degrees of loii^bide converge, the distance .across is _ ssened^^With the superior speed ll# the Em- pressefti&^&kn passage is materially shortened, and the voyage usuaj^ogpuprfs from a week to ten days less time than is required byyTthcrJfoutes. On the westward course, the Empress' curving route runs near enough to the Aleutian chain for one to see the fhoresAf Atka |gland, if the day be clear, or discern the glow of a volcano reflect^! in the sky at night. The "wolf's long howl" is not l#earci9rjf$ the mariner on his midnight watch, as despite the poet, tharanimal does not inhabit Unalaska nor any of the island Vancouver's shores. the water toAeagues mountain sl^fejpj^^ht candlestick am£at by day and Flattery's li as she follows tM*c 1imitless wej£ejyi/oca time begins^a^i^ This occaWf&b north J&tygfcJSsA THE WYPfj$rELS e of ,&e the sun 14 THE INTERNATIONAL DATE LINE 15 chain. Instead blue foxes are raised for their pelts, and Atka in especial is all one blue fox ranch or peltry preserve. There are no settlements on these islands and but scant supplies of food.and fuel for the wretched Aleutians living in half underground habitations. When the passes between these islands are surveyed and charted, the course to Japan can be shortened by curving through them and along the higher parallels in Behring Sea. One of the proposed trans-Pacific cables will have a land station on one of the Aleutians, and, following their line westward, cross to the Kuriles or the Kamschatkan peninsula and join the Siberian land lines. Crossing the line is the great incident of a Pacific voyage, and the 180th meridian that marks the division between the Eastern and the Western hemispheres, and is the exact a day lost antipodes of Greenwich, is almost midway in the course. In going out to Japan a day is dropped from the calendar, and in going eastward the day is doubled. One goes to bed on Monday night and wakens on Wednesday morning, or on the return trip, he arises to live over again and repeat the incidents of the day before. On account of ship's discipline, certain privileges and routine duties of the crew belonging to Sunday, that day is seldom dropped or doubled. The heading "Antipodes Day" on the morning menu announces a day that never is on land. The up-hill of the voyage is over, and the descent, down-hill from the great meridian, out of the West and into the East is begun. He leaves the Canadian or California day and lives the Australian and Far Eastern day. When the ship gets as far west as 160 degrees east from Greenwich the warmer and moister air of the Japan Stream is felt, and if it be in the summer months, the traveller will be glad to have some lighter clothing at hand. Otherwise, he needs the same warm and serviceable clothing in the North Pacific as in the North Atlantic. Life on one of the Canadian Pacific steamships presents many attractions that do not appear on the Atlantic liner. life at sea Either the tourist is a better sailor by the time he reaches Balboa's presumably placid ocean, or else he gets his sea legs sooner on its longer swells, and the fetching and carrying of broths and doses are not the whole sum of deck life. / / So many nationalities afe represented, such cosmopolitans and veteran travellers are gathered together on one of these Pacific steamers, that the complacent young tourist, whose town and family viewed him as a Columbus or a Stanley, when he started to circle the globe, shrinks into nothingness beside the tea, silk or opium merchant at his elbow, who is making his twentieth or thirtieth round. A Manila or Java planter, a teakwood or pearl merchant from Siam, the Anglo-Indian, the serious Briton in Chinese service, and the commeicial traveller who firmly believes that "Asia's my spot," whether it be Col. Sellers' eye-water or a newer commodity he aims to introduce to those millions of customers—all these, and many missionaries as well, meet on board, and constitute the ship's small world. Veteran travellers have their regular whist sets, long-running tourneys enliven the smoking rooms, games on the broad decks divert the company, and everything is done for the entertainment of the travellers. If a ball is wanted, the promenade deck is enclosed with flags, a few more electric lights are connected, a piano is brought up, and lo ! a ball-room worthy of Pacific dancers. The long established usages of English social life are observed at sea as much as on shore, and one is introduced to a more orderly and ceremonious existence than on the Atlantic ferry. A sail is rarely sighted between the two shores; no icebergs ever float in the North Pacific; and a whale, a seal, a school of flying fish or Portuguese men-of-war, or a night of phosphorescent waters are the memorable incidents. Great as the wave scenery may sometimes be up by 500 and 510, the Pacific is a much more reliable and steady-going ocean than "the mournful and misty Atlantic." The Chinese passengers are sometimes interesting. After filling the air with paper joss money to propitiate the evil spirits of the ocean as they leave Vancouver, they seldom come to the top again during the voyage, living sociably together in the Chinese steerage, where fan tan, opium smoking and chatter go on. The bones of those who have died in America are often part of the westbound cargo, and it is contracted that if one of them dies on shipboard he shall not be buried at sea, but embalmed and carried on to China. In the leisure days on board, the traveller may devote himself to the literature of Japan, each ship's library containing the standard works. He must read the island's history and know of the Sun Goddess, who peopled the islands; and of Jingo Kogo, the first empress. He must follow the decay of the Emperor's power and the usurpation of his functions by the Shogun, until that military vassal became the sole ruler and remained so until the restoration of the Emperor to actual power in 1868. He must know of Hideyoshi, the Taiko, the great general of the Middle Ages; and of Iyeyasu, the Augustus of the Golden Age; and of Keiki, the last of the Tokuwaga Shoguns, now leading the quiet life of a country gentleman near Shidzuoka. He must learn of the astonishing political changes of this quarter of a century since the Restoration, that marvel of the century—the quick exchange of a feudal system X-5.«^^.1.^.5 f°r a constitutional monarchy; the extinction of a RENAISSANCE . .. , .... . J :'. , . . . privileged military class, and the election of a lower house of parliament directly by the people. Theorists are the more puzzled when they confront the race and study the problem on its own ground. One must study Shinto's shadowy forms, a conventional worship of past heroes and abstract qualities, where myths take the place of creed and articles, but which, by imperial command, has been revived as the state religion with the soverign as its actual head. Buddhism, having come from India by way of China and Korea, is greatly corrupted, and Sinnett is not a guide to its twelve sects. Of Japanese art, its industrial arts and architecture, Prof. Rein, Dr. Dresser, Prof. Morse, Dr. Anderson, M. L. Gonse and Bing have written in recent years. In Mr. Conder's treatise on "The Flowers of Japan and the Art of Floral Arrangement," parts of which Sir Edwin Arnold incorporated in his "Japonica," and in J Conder's recent volume on landscape gardening, arts new to the rest of the world and refinements western barbarians never dreamed of, are evidenced by the researches of that careful student. The illuminated work on "Japanese Architecture," by Messrs. Gardiner and Conder, rill be also the standard in its line. Of legend and I -Jf*^ 18 romance Mitford's "Tales of Old Japan" is a treasure house, and Chamberlain's translations and Griffis' "Fairy World" give the tales and folk lore which are keys to half the designs one meets on porcelains, lacquer, bronze and silk. The guide book for his wanderings, the new "Murray's Japan," is the work of that eminent scholar, Basil Hall Chamberlain, and Prof. W. G. Mason. Prof. Chamberlain's "Things Japanese" is a book of general reference, arranged as an encyclopaedia, and is as much a necessity for those who would know what they are seeing as the "Murray." Of travels and impressions there are the records of Sir Edward Reed, Miss Bird, Lord Curzon, Lowell and others; Sir Edwin Arnold, Pierre Loti and Miss Alice Bacon have drawn Japanese women from as many points of view; and Lafcadio Hearn has penetrated furthest into the heart and soul and life of Japan. Everywhere he finds testimony that there are no other people so refined, so courteous, gentle, amiable, interesting and innately aesthetic as these Latins of the Orient, and one remembers that at Peking in 1900 the Japanese army by its perfection of transport, commissariat and equipment, its surgical and sanitary work, the drill, discipline and dash of its troops, its passionate patriotism, and its humanity to the conquered, surpassed the armies of all other nations—armies of the so-called Christian nations who send missionaries to Japan. IV. Often the Empress sights land at noon and until dark runs along close to the green Japanese shores, sometimes approaching near enough to Kinkwazan, the sacred island in the Bay of Sendai, for one to see the temples among the trees and the flag flying from the little lighthouse at the island's edge. Inuboe lighthouse is signalled usually after dark, and at daybreak, as the sun gilds the slopes of Fujiyama the ship rounds Cape King, passes Sagami and Kanonsaki lighthouses on the left, and anchors at the lightship outside Yokohama breakwater for the quarantine inspection. "I was satisfied," wrote Rudyard Kipling, "Fujiyama was exactly as I had seen it. I would not have sold my sight of it for the crest of Kinchunjunga flushed with the morning. Fujiyama is the keynote of Japan. When you understand the one, you are in a position to learn something about the other." There Japan encircles one. Steam launches bear down upon the arriving ship and carry passengers and mails ashore. Sampans 19 crowd about the steerage gangway, and the native boatmen and their queer, clean craft are seen in all their picturesqueness. "It is like the picture books," wrote John La Farge, Yokohama "and under what splendor of light, in what contrasting atmosphere! The beauty of the light and of the air is what I should like to describe, but it is almost like trying to account for one's own mood—like describing the key in which one plays." The customs examination at the English Hatoba, or landing place, is more thorough since Japan became a high protection tariff country, and inaugurated its new tariff of imports in 1899; photographic cameras are dutiable, and the snap-shot tourist often repents having made himself so conspicuous in catching his very AN EMPRESS IN YOKOHAMA HARBOUR first impressions on film. Incidentally, it may be remarked that the great moisture of the atmosphere hinders the success of instantaneous photographs, and kodaks need to be slowed down to secure even dubious negatives of moving figures. Time exposures are alone to be relied upon in Japan. There are as stringent laws prohibiting sketching and photographing within ten miles of fortifications as in European countries. With a rush a dozen jinrikishas come forward, and the coolies drop the shafts in a circle around one and invite to jinrikishas the comfortably cushioned seat of the overgrown perambulator. One's sensations upon first riding in One of these vehicles are peculiar, and few can preserve a 20 V serious countenance or conceal his self- consciousness while being trundled down the Bund by an absurd little man in tights and a mushroom hat. An eminent divine declared that he wanted to crow and gurgle and shake his hand in a second childhood when he was first taken out in such a baby carriage. The jinrikisha with pneumatic tires furnishes the poetry of locomotion and is the ideal vehicle of the world. The jinrikisha, or kuruma, as it is called in the more polite Japanese speech, was invented or adapted by one Goble, a marine on Commodore Perry's flagship, when he had afterwards returned to Japan as a missionary. Its use dates from 1867 to 1871, as different Japanese authorities assert, but it has quickly spread to China, the Straits, and even to India. A tariff of jinrikisha and sampan fares will be found on a conspicuous board at the landing-place. In going up the hill to the bluff, the coolie calls an atoshi, or pusher, to help him up the slope, and the passenger pays four cents to this assistant at the top. All the houses and places of business in Japanese ports are known to the coolies by their numbers, which in Japanese and Arabic numerals are fastened to each door or gate. One may learn the numerals and their hotels written characters from the hotel menu cards, as each dish is numbered in Japanese at one side of the card and in English at the other side. The guest points to the number and the waiter brings the desired dish. Ban, meaning "number," is added to each, as ichi ban, number one; go ban, number five; and niu jiu ban, number twenty. The Grand, the Oriental and the Club hotels on the Bund, several smaller hotels in the ■: settlement; the Maples and one or two private boarding-places on the Bluff will receive the stranger. All these are kept as hotels of their class in Europe or America, with French chefs in the larger establishments, band concerts several nights each week, steam heat and electric lights. The Yokohama United Club and the German Club are the active centres of Ichi— 1. M— 2. San— 3- Shi— 4- Go— 5> Rokv— 6. Sh'chi— 7- Hachi— 8. Ku— 9. Jiu- 10. ^Jiu ichi— 11. /iu ni— 12. Zl the social life of th<^jgreign residejpts^vho number 3532 khpt this %jf yoffidisLcessus iiacjunes 1808 Chinese, =.a^welljis \ clubs "^^I^llh. 32jK^^cans, 166 *ermas^mdj^7 \^ ^ -j .fe^^^©^eris63Avefling, in Yokfhama. 1 g<r The^ JK>ng Kom^^^han|^af 'Bankin^^^^^ra^ggv :0& National Bank of Ch^^ffeZ&ffirtered B^hK oJ^i^.A&^tralia andj^IafJariV^the-JRal^^^ Ihe banks YfJSpphaa Specie^^m^a^apM^^sftifTOration, sStE-db*'general ^nk^g^ftfeiftej^. iPTfres^#banks observe the u^#^*!|$onal h(sU^s^^i^^Jn\\^^M^' closed during race wgWs, which the ^^efieV^^^ls "To /kef^QnlTHfiaA Money changgte 6n Main StreeP&nd Bi^dn 'DortyWfrjl for a trifling percentage, change bank rtote'sdii^rhe fiitac^naK^ins so necessary in this land oFmany small_0ayrnents. y >&$**' The Japanese yen, at par, cqjre^ond&$<fethe/American half- dollar, and is made up of onejjra^r^d*^^^which are further divided into ten^JffKr^ach/Tl^ne hen has an aver age equal exch^igSNWith the Me-xitan silver dollar, &xjtan nS mc \rnich is the Kjffrent coin<"an# monetary unit 1st. From Hong Kong to Mont- JAPANESE money "&" v:vi"."" ";vv-"*5^; 5 the gnrn throughout China and the Far Easl real and New York, one talks of and dqaj^rf'dollars and cents, realizing handsome premiums in the^ei^hange of Canadian or United States dollars for yens orMexicans. At the offices of the Canadi|^rr)acific Railway Company, at No. 14 Bund, passage may be secured and all information given as to future sailings and accomrnodations, and assistance rendered in arranging for side trictfand connections at the different ports of call. The Nippon Y^spn Kaisha (Japanese Mail Steamship Company), owned andymanaged by the government, has a large fleet of coasting steamers, connecting with all the ports of Japan, Korea and ^tfrth £biA; and ships are despatched to Vladivostock, Port Arthij^^l^nllb Australia, India and Europe. The Penin- sumr and O^Jrt^rfhe Norddeutscher Lloyd, and the Messageries Maritimes Steamship Companies have also offices at Yokohama. Rail^ay/^jDw connect all the principal cities in Japan, and mere ag^^wore than 3,000 miles of road in operation, with many tfjf&icj^' branch lines in course of construction, under both ) raiiws state and private ownership. The first lines were built, equipped and managed by English engineers, butal^he railway employees are now Japanese. Sleeping cars and dinrngjears are run on the main lines. The post-office is on Main Street and mails depart weekly for Europe and at more frequent intervals for America. Japan is a I V r 29 -Ifc; member of the Postal Union, and the uniform ten sen rate for a foreign letter of fifteen grammes is charged. To any part of Japan the letter postage is three sen for each quarter ounce. The telegraph office {Denshin Kioku) is on Main Street. There are lines to all parts of Japan, and the charge is fifteen sen for the first ten kana (square) characters, and ten sen for each succeeding ten characters. In a foreign language, the charge is five sen for each word. There are three cable routes to Europe, the tolls averaging from two to four yens for each word to New York or Montreal. Tokyo time, the true local time of the Akeshi, or 135th meridian, is kept throughout the empire and is nine hours in advance of Greenwich time. When it is twelve o'clock noon, Monday, in Yokohama, it is— 11.07 a.m. Mo ndav at Shanghai. 3.08 a.m., Mo nday, at Paris. 10.28 a " at Hong Kong. 300 | tt at London. 9-52 tt tt at Singapore. 10.00 p.m. Sunday, at New York. 8.20 tt " at Colombo. 10.00 " tt at Montreal. 8.55 tt " at Calcutta. 9.00 " tt at Chicago. 7-53 ft " at Bombay. 7.00 " tt at San Francisco. 5-12 tt tt at Suez. 7.00 " tt at Vancouver. *sj6Ssil With the operation of the new treaties in 1899, extra territorially ceased in Japan, and all foreigners are now subject to Japanese laws while in Japan. The special passports obtained through one's legation or consulate are no longer required. Every wise traveller of course carries a passport from his own country as a means of identification in emergencies. As a rule, the foreign or European servant is quite useless in the Far East. The tourist can easily find a well- \ trained Japanese "boy" or valet, Japanese and an amah or lady's maid, who servants can speak enough English to be AND guides of assistance in travelling and add much to one's stay. Their wages range from ten to , twenty yens a month. A Chinese boy and I an Indian bearer are even more necessary for interior travel in those countries. At either hotel in Yokohama he will find a bulletin board with the cards of the professional guides who are disengaged. A guide is necessary to any one who would comfortably travel in the interior, or off the beaten track, and is an advantage to any one not speaking Japanese. Their guild, 23 the Kaiyusha, aii^rizesar^ular tariff of charges, ranging from three yens a da^^'war9Tac^|cling to the number of tourists in the party.^^^ The ^io"e\t£aveUing and living expenses are paid by his employer, who^h^fcypse Jincf etfjpless annoyance, and misses nothing m interest whnein the eharge^f one of these experienced mentors. ^Pfttf^Surist' ft jftarnedTO: trie f3»oy" who speaks a little English, and assumesWS guide at a greaw reduced price. The traveller has little to |sa/for his healthiijY Japan, where sanitary regulations and quaraainne are strictly enforced. There are excellent foreign phwicians in each port, foreign and native hospitals, ana well-eluipped/pharmacies. The foreigner should be careful in |het; (pink no/ water that has not been boiled and d; avoid shellfish, all ground fruits and irid iceJ drinks. In addition, foreign residents throughout lAsia at all times wear the cholera lclt,|a closwy-fittingfj^ge of flannel covering the sVonmch aiijcl prever^ing'-^i sudden chill in that vital region, theWaml svnfptom in other \diseases than cholera. MoreoveMhe avdrtlsfche njgclday sBn|cim brinks a cup of hot tea or coffeetbefore fes^ndiwr to tire gpowaftl floo/wof a house, or filtered, or cotodens uncooked' vegeftbles health and doctors taking th<I|mornirl| 8athM In cotmtryS^a-houfel places he can find rae*|cou||erfeit label oflKveryifoi but such ale wisely'aVoufed. Bottled njjmeralmva and'that of lie Hirano ai|j|§ranlan sbringg'nearfeobe Apollinaris.^Tea in ti|i\!f§|ips j§ offgred flsveryyhere, anc thirst best, b'M as jmis|l~i|sli and stronger thar»the|toufi|t£ is ill powerful stirKdaia:. !^p»-od ?§•. summer time.Mlnltct pfwdcr i J; carry wjth hwi in warm weal eucalyptfes wilyfiielp him to leac d way-side ti beverage, ^are safest, very like satisfies un«dul|erateJ[green tea%s much :d to af horM, he will finid it a T/Vu™ fa^vair ^e ^a<^ for\t in Jt^ce^ary'every traveler snould !pr, and oM of pennyroyal or ^chajjpnedjlife in trie oldest tea- afi teaJ houses, U h anoints hnSisVlf. foreigVi lii|ijind interests of Yoko- jt|«q If^fnished houses may be yUplfivc fif ndred yens, or "empty lure rdfjjted. Trakied/ (servants /are abundant affl/cfieap, and nowftere W. hofise'keephfg so lf^» a afreets in the roreign settlements of the East. Laundrymcn charge four and five yens for one The e3qcellc&-hitols«nd tlj hama tempt thg £o4risfc:Jp ling had at prices Eihgin"- from houses may b| seen re« and are easily seclrid, th^fmarl 34 \ ■ / hundred pieces; single victorias may be had for sixty and seventy yens a month, and a saddle horse for less. Tailors are many, and their goods cheap; and all through Japan, China and India, where one m requires a large supply of thin summer , — _. - f clothing, he can be outfitted quickly, at less cost and more satisfactorily than in Europe I ^\ ilPl^B re~ P. or America. ^ After leaving America luggage, and '■■Bl / hand-luggage especially, is no trouble. / The luxurious foreign residents in the East luggage fj/?i*\ travel with mountains pp£S| i.„ ; _ ||| ^, of impedimenta. There are always servants and coolies to carry it, and ©the native measures his respect by the Z2\ visible possessions of the tourist. In ilfe* vi *U jinrikisha and mountain trips in Japan luggage is, of course, reduced to a !jv minimum. The railroads allow sixty I... pounds of luggage to each ticket. IIS Besides wandering through the i streets of open-fronted shops, watch- l£*A' 1W £ ing the mercantile and fls-J' '■'' domestic dramas en- J*?,AJ,!!5?E Is I j. j xi. j • CURIOS I! acted there, and enjoy ing the succession of living Japanese tableaux, shopping is the chief amusement of the tourist in Yokohama. Curios abound, but the stranger need not expect to find great treasures in the traditional dingy shop and side street in this modern day of keen appreciation and trade rivalry. The so-called Japanese wares that overflow the bazaars and fancy goods shops in foreign countries, abominations concocted solely for the supposed tastes of outer barbarians, and not used by Japanese at all, are in evidence wherever the sailor or the verdant tourist may wander. Collectors in all other parts of the world long ago drained the country of the choice products of the old artists, but imitations of the old wares and forgeries of the old masters are abundant. In the absence of any public art collections, systematically arranged and labelled in English, the tourist has no standards at hand for comparisons, and the curio dealers palm off their spurious treasures the more easily. Connoisseurs are victimized as often as novices. Since the western 25 L world has become so enthusiastic over Japanese paintings, forgeries of Hokusai, Okio and Sosen have been the profitable employment of clever kakemono painters. As original kakemonos by those artists command thousands of yens, bargains may be distrusted. The days of bargaining in Oriental fashion, of haggling for hours over a few yens are fast ending, too, and fixed prices and goods marked in plain figures are the rule at the best establishments. Isezakicho, a street of museums, side-shows, tents, booths, restaurants, toy-shops and labyrinthine bazaars, will amuse the tourist for several evenings with its street scenes amusements and indoor spectacles. With an interpreter, the Japanese theatre will prove a delight and a revelation, and a guide will arrange for a dinner in Japanese style at a tea-house or an eel-house. From the temple grounds on Nogeyama, the hill at the left of the railway station, and from the ioo-Steps Tea-house, a bird's-eye view of the city and harbour may be obtained. A carriage or jinrikisha ride around the Bluff where the foreign residents live, past the race-course, and around by the shores of Mississippi Bay, will show one much of beauty and interest in the couple of hours devoted to it. Beyond Negishi village are iris and peony gardens whose annual flower shows should not be missed and, by a tunnel through a rocky headland, the road reaches Sugita, whose blossoming plum trees occasion a great festival each winter. There is. good bathing at Negishi and Honmoku, and the tea-houses provide every accommodation for bathers. VI. The ri and the cho are the Japanese measures of distance. The ri is equal to about two and a half English miles, and it takes 36 chos to make one ri. Fifteen chos are a little more than one mile. One ri equals 1.9273 kilometres, and it is believed that that decimal system will soon be adopted. On country roads jinrikisha fares are regulated by distance, from eight to fifteen sen a ri being charged, according to the character of the road, but on all the usual routes, to and from country stations, the exact tariff is known. It is a day's delight to visit Kamakura and |;\ Enoshima, twenty miles below Yokohama. 1 The railway train will take one to Kamakura, landing him near the Temple of Hachiman, an historic shrine where many famous relics are displayed. He may tiffin at the Kaihin-in, a foreign hotel in a pine grove statue of -is a mile THE DAI BUTSU AT KAMAKURA near the beach. The colossal bronze Buddha—the Dai Butsu- distant from the Kaihin-in. Theimaere THE DAI • ccx r x • i, • i?x butsu is nlty feet in height, and is the noblest existing representation of the Great Teacher. The behaviour of uncivilized tourists has forced the priests of the Kotoku-in monastery to post this appeal: "Stranger, whosoever thou art and whatsoever be thy creed, when thou enterest this Sanctuary remember thou treadest upon ground hallowed by the worship of ages. "This is the temple of Buddha and the gate of the eternal, and should therefore be entered with reverence." Driving five miles down the beach, the island of Enoshima is reached. At low tide a jinrikisha can go to the foot of one of the steep streets, but at high tide a ferry boat plies across a stretch of water. There are beautiful walks through the temple groves crowning the island, and the cave temple to the Goddess Benten may be visited at low tide. Its tea-houses serve fish dinners, and each one commands some specially fine view. On the opposite beach, at Katase, there is the best surf-bathing. To return to Yokohama more quickly one may drive to the Fujisawa station and take the train. The second station after Kamakura is Yokosuka, site of the arsenal, navy-yard, dry-docks and shipyards of this great naval power. In one suburb, commanding the most superb landscape view, is the grave of Will Adams, the English pilot, who arriving in 1607 was peaceably detained to teach shipbuilding and other useful arts. A favorite course for bicycle riders is the picturesque coast road leading for five miles south from Yokosuka to Uraga, and on to Kurihama, where Commodore Perry first landed in Japan, July 14, 1853. Miyanoshita, the favorite mountain resort, is reached in less than five hours—using the railway forty-nine miles to Kodzu, an electric tram to Yumoto, and a jinrikisha up the mountain road to 27 the Fujiya hotel where all of creature comforts, soda and sulphur baths, a picturesque village and many charming walks await him. Miyanoshita and Hakone are crowded in midsummer and open the year around. One favorite day's jaunt is to Otomitoge Pass, where the great plain around Fujiyama lies below one. It is but five miles down to Gotemba, where he may take the train back to Yokohama, or on to Kioto and Kobe. Gotemba is the starting point for the ascent of Fujiyama, which may be made at any time during July or August, when the rest-houses on the mountain are open, and thou- to Fujiyama sands of pilgrims visit them. The ascent has been made in June and in September, but guides and coolies deprecate the risk, and two Englishmen who made the climb in December, 1891, only kept two coolies with them by main force. From Gotemba it is seven miles by tram to Subashiri,and thence five miles by horse or kago to Umagayeshi (Turn Back Horse). The kago is a basket palanquin slung from a pole carried on the shoulders of two men, "who trudge 'with a steady and firm step, as though they were carrying a jackdaw in a cage instead of a burly Englishman," says Dr. Dresser. From Umagayeshi every pilgrim walks the fifteen miles through the wood and over the open lava slopes to the tenth and last rest-house at the summit, but foreigners ride and are often carried half way to the crest. The priest at the summit temple will stamp staff and clothing and sell a pictured certificate of ascent. The height of the summit is 12,365 feet above the level of the sea, according to Stewart's estimate. From the circle of temples on the crater's rim all of five provinces and a great stretch of ocean may be seen. The summit may be reached from Umagayeshi in less than six hours, including rests. Coolies carry extra clothing, rubber garments and provisions, and if the pilgrim is to spend the night at any of the rest-houses, he should carry a hammock and a large supply of insect powder or eucalyptine. The descent by a 28 FUJIYAMA, FROM THE PLAIN shute of loose cinders to the forest belt is made in less than an hour, and waraji or straw sandals tied on over leather shoes will prevent them from being cut to pieces by the sharp cinders. The snow leaves the mountain entirely in midsummer, and the heat and dust on the open lava cone are the greatest discomforts of the trip. From Miyanoshita, he goes to Hakone to see Fujiyama reflected in the lake, and down by the Ten Province Pass and its famous view, to Atami, a village on the coast, twenty miles from Kodzu. It is a favorite water- atami ing-place, which has a sulphur geyser bubbling at the very edge of the ocean. Sheltered in its little bay by an amphitheatre of cliffs and mountains, and with long rollers of the open Pacific sweeping up its beach of golden sand, which is warmed by the subterranean heat, Atami is a winter and early spring resort of great attraction. It is mild and sunny there when the worst winter weather is raging at the capital, and it is then greatly affected by Tokyo's court circles. Kanozan, a village on a mountain summit across the bay from Yokohama, affords the most splendid prospect to be had in Japan, with Fujiyama before, and the whole bay of Yeddo in relief below one. There also is to be seen the celebrated view of "The Ninety-nine Valleys." The villages at the foot of Kanozan are reached by small steamers leaving Tokyo and Yokosuka several times each day. ^^^Mi||fv?;f".:AfA^ 29 VII. The railway from Yokohama to Tokyo follows the shore of the bay closely for the eighteen miles. It is well worth while to stop at Omori and visit Ikegami Temple, mother church of the Nichiren sect of Buddhists, who hold the annual matsuri or festival in honor of the founder, on the twelfth and thirteenth of October each year. It is the most popular and picturesque of all the-matsuris of the province.* The jinrikisha bureau in the Shinbashi station, Tokyo, v/ill give one a check for his vehicle and runners which states the destination and payment to be made. The Imperial and Metropole hotels make the stranger most comfortable, and restaurants in foreign style—the Seiyoken at Uyeno Park, the Senyentei in Shiba Park, and one in the railway station—enable one to avoid some of the inconveniences of traversing tins city of outrageous distances. The legations are all on the high ground south and west of the palace moats and through his diplomatic representative the tourist may beg the privilege of visiting the Imperial Hama Rikiu Garden and the Arsenal Garden which was formerly the park of Mito Yashiki. Only those bidden to Imperial audiences may enter the Emperor's Palace. The mortuary temples of the Tokugawa Shoguns at Shiba and Uyeno are the finest examples of architecture and decoration in Tokyo and are similar to the splendid mausoleums at Nikko. At side entrances of the Shiba sanctuaries one pays an entrance fee, removes his shoes and follows the priest through the splendid interiors. Shoes are not removed at Asakusa Temple, the popular Buddhist temple of the people. Religion and amusement go hand-in-hand there, and, having paid and prayed, the pilgrim may amuse and enjoy himself in. a hundred ways at a thousand booths, shops, theatres, side-shows and restaurants. From an imitation Fujiyama and a mock Eiffel Tower he obtains a bird's-eye view of a city of a million and a half inhabitants which rivals the outlook from the Rond Point of Uyeno Park, and from the Kudan Hill, and from the tea-houses * See "Jinrikisha Days in Japan," by Eliza Ruhamah page 134. New York: Harper & Brothers. 30 Scid more,- at AtagOyaffla, near Shiba—all widely separated points of view. Great flower shows are always in progress at Asakusa. There are three government museums at Uyeno Park, and a bazaar for the sale of goods of Tokyo manufacture, all of which should be visited. The Zoological Garden contains a good collection of animals, and there is a pleasant drive from that pleasure •ground to the Botanical Gardens, passing the buildings of the Imperial University on the way. The Shintomiza, the Kabukiza and the Chitose theatres are only closed in midsummer, and in several amusement centres dramatic and acrobatic entertainments, side-shows and strolling artists of many kinds will amuse one every night. There is some temple or precinct festival almost every night, weekly flower fairs in every quarter, and the whole length of the Ginza, the Broad- w a y of Tokyo, holds a double row of vendors, throngs of cheerful people strolling between lanternand torch lighted booths, where all the toys, plants, flowers, fruits, confections, commodities, notions and gew-gaws tempt and delight all from grandsire to the tiniest ones riding pick-a-back. New Year's Day, Declaration Day,* and theEmperor's Birthday, November 3rd, are great official holidays when Court pageants, reviews and a general decoration and illumination of the city occur. Tokyo's greatest fetes are when the cherry blossoms convert Uyeno Park and the Mukojima river road into such a floral ♦Anniversary of the Declaration of the New Constitution, Feb. ii, 1S89. . 3i WISTARIA AT KAMEIDO J paradise as no Occidental dreams of, and this April carnival is worth hastening, or delaying long to visit. The wrestlers have their great season then and the word sumo (wres- tokyo fetes tier) is sufficient to set the jinrikishas whirling toward the quarter where fluttering banners and standards declare the tourney on. There is a great wistaria fete at the Kameido Temple in May, when the ancient vines bear flowers three and four feet in length. Gold-fish as many feet in length live in the temple lake, and may be seen at any season by him who will clap his hands and scatter eakes on the water. The iris gardens of Hori Kiri afford an unique flower show in mid-June that the tourist should go far to see. The opening of the river at the end of June is another characteristic and picturesque fete of the capital, when the summer boat-life begins, and the moon viewing in September closes it. In July and August he may look upon acres of blooming lotus around the little island temple of Benten at Uyeno Park, and in those same months Iriya gardeners show the most wonderful morning-glories. In October the greatest chrysanthemum show in the world begins in the Dangozaka quarter, and no flower fancier .knows the *he chrysanthemum and its possibilities until he chrysanthe- has seen those marvellous blossoms and the life- mum show size and colossal flower pieces. Chrysanthemums growing on stalks six and ten feet high—365 and 1,000 flowers springing from a single stem—flowers of different colors and petals growing on one parent stem, are conceits of the florists, who apply the most captivating and poetically descriptive names to their pets. The humblest Japanese coolie is much too civilized, has too real a sense of aesthetic propriety, and too keen a sense of humor to ever name such a fragile and exquisite thing as a flower for any living biped. "Dye of the dew," "hoar frost," "moonlight on Fuji," "spray of the sea," and "dragon's spume" are the names of a few white chrysanthemums that the barbarian imports and names the "Mrs. John Smith," the "Mrs. Peter Jones," etc. There is no accepted drive or promenade where the great world of Tokyo gathers for its afternoon airing, no Rotten Row nor particular boulevard. Any day the Emperor and his suite may pass by, but each spring and autumn the Sovereign and the Court lend splendor to the review of troops held at the Hibiya parade ground. At the Kudan and Uyeno race tracks high life and sporting circles meet in spring and autumn. 32 vm. Nikko, the site of the most splendid temples in Japan, and a mountain refuge of great popularity in midsummer, is reached by railway in five hours from Tokyo. On the return, one may take jinrikisha to Utsonomiya and ride for twenty-three miles down an avenue of cryptomeria trees. Kanaya's hotel, in the village, and the new Nikko Hotel adjoining the temple grounds in the upper village, will lodge the traveller. In one day nikko the he may visit the two village 'of great temples and temples the tombs of the Shoguns, Iyeyasu and Iyemitsuj take the woodland walk around the sacred hill; cross the river by the upper bridge, and see the ancient images lining the bank; see the sacred Red Bridge and choose souvenirs in the pretty village shops. A small admission fee is charged at each temple. A score of writers beside Dr. Dresser have found words inadequate to describe these "shrines as glorious in color as the Alhambra in the days of its splendor, and yet with a thousand times the interest of that beautiful building." To quote again that poetic word-painter, Percival Lowell: "At the farther end rises a building, INNER GATE 0F THE IYEMITSU the like of which for richness of effect you temple, nikko have probably never beheld or even imagined. From the tiles of its terrace to the encrusted gables that drape it as with some rich bejewelled mantle, falling about it in the most graceful of folds, it is the very eastern Princess of a building standing in the majesty of her court to give you audience. "A pebbly path, a low flight of stone steps, a pause to leave your shoes without the sill, and you tread in the twilight of reverence upon the mosslike mats within. The richness of its outer ornament, so impressive at first, is, you discover, but prelude to the lavish luxury of its interior. Lacquer, 33 bronze, pigments, deck its ceiling and its sides in such, profusion that it seems to you as if art had expanded in the congenial atmosphere into a tropical luxuriance of decoration, and grew here as naturally on temples as in the jungle creepers do on trees." And finally, says Dr. Dresser: "I am getting weary of beauty. * * * I am also weary of writing of the beautiful, for I feel that any ' words that I can use must fail to convey any adequate idea of the conscientiousness of the work, the loveliness of the compositions, the harmoniousness of the colors, and the beauty of the surroundings here before me; and yet the adjectives which I have tried to heap one upon another, in the hope of conveying to the reader what I—an architect and [ ornamentist—feel when contemplating these matchless shrines, must appear, I am afraid, altogether unreasonable." The Crown Prince has a summer palace at Nikko' where he spends two or three months each | year, leading a very simple, quiet life, * aria greeting high and low with democratic nantaisan courtesy during his daily walks. Thousands of pilgrims visit Nikko in July, trudging on up to Chiuzenji and making the eight miles of mountain road ring with their jingling staffs. Yumoto, six miles further on, is a picturesque place reached by a picturesque road that follows the shore of both lakes and crosses a high plain from which Nantaisan rises splendidly. Returning from Nikko by train, the tourist interested in silk culture may change at Oyama, take train for Maebashi and thence by jinrikisha seven miles, reach Ikao, the centre of the Joshu silk district. There are excellent hotels in foreign style and hot mineral baths which attract many of the better class of Japanese, who, to cure their ills, spend whole days in the pools with floating tables before them on which they write, play games and eat. The village street is lined with charming little wooden-ware shops— Ikao's confections are renowned—there are magnificent views from every part of the village, and the neighborhood offers many excursions. From Omiya a branch road leads to Karuizawa, on the broad- plain at the foot of the volcano Asama-Yama, a summer resort 34 V in great f o re 1 g n favor with the residents of China and the Philippines for whom Japan is the only refuge and sanitarium. It is also the starting point for the Naka- sendo trip, and the continuation of the railway to Naoetsu on the west coast is lauded as the finest landscape line in Japan. castle at nagoya IX. In traveling by railway between Tokyo and Kioto, the traveller may make the journey between early morning and midnight of the same day, or break the long ride by stopping overnight at Shidzuoka or Nagoya and see these shidzuoka : provincial capitals, or pass the night on the sleeping cars. Both at Shidzuoka and Nagoya the foreign hotel is directly opposite the railway station. There is a most interesting detour to be made from Shidzuoka to the old Tokugawa mortuary temples upon whose models the Shiba and Nikko temples were elaborated. The castle is the great sight at Nagoya, and from its highest tower a magnificent view of the plain and bay of Owari is obtained. He may cross by steamer to Yokkaichi, where the pretty Banko pottery is made, and take the railway to Yamada in Ise, the cradle and treasure temples of the Shinto cult, and from there go on to Kioto by train. X. The Canadian Pacific steamers' regular ports of call are Yokohama, Kobe, Nagasaki, Shanghai and Hong Kong. The tourist may proceed by frequent local steamer to Kobe at kobe and through the Inland Sea to Nagasaki. Within twenty-four hours after leaving Yokohama such steamers enter the Inland Sea and anchor off Kobe, the foreign settlement adjoining the ancient town of Hiogo. The tourist may 35 THE MIAKODORI OR CHERRY-BLOSSOM DANCE also reach Kobe by the Tokaido Railway in less time, or he may stop off at Nagoya, cross Lake Biwa, visit Kioto, Nara and Osaka before taking ship again. Kobe-Hiogo, the second export city of the empire, with a population now exceeding 90,000, has a most picturesque setting, and at night the harbour and hillsides look as if purposely illuminated. The Oriental Hotel and Jiutei's Hotel are kept in foreign style, and, as with all the other ports of the East, Kobe has its full complement of clubs. The Consulates, banks and shipping agencies are in the Concession between the harbour and the railway embankment. The sights of the town are the Nanko Temple, the Nofukuji Temple with its colossal bronze Buddha, and the Shinkoji Temple in Hiogo; the Ikuta Temple, the Nunobiki waterfalls, and the raised river bed, the Minatogawa, which is park and pleasure ground for the Japanese community. The Motomachi, or main street, is a lane of delight in the way of attractive shops. Arima is a mountain village sixteen miles inland, where nearly all the bamboo baskets for the foreign trade are manufactured. Arima has also medicinal springs and is a fashionable place of resort for the rheumatic and ailing, Hideyoshi having given it vogue centuries ago. Its picturesque streets and surroundings, its shops and workrooms, easily entertain one for a day. In returning, the traveller may take kago, or walk to the top of Rokusan, and there enjoy a matchless view of mountain, sea and plain, descend the steep road to Sumiyoshi station five miles from Kobe. Osaka is distant twenty miles from Kobe by rail. Trains leave 36 hourly for Osaka and at longer intervals for Kioto, which is twenty-seven miles beyond Osaka, second city of the empire, variously called the Venice, the Glasgow and the Chicago of Japan. Formerly it was the military capital, now it is the industrial one, its suburbs bristling with factory chimneys and its population increasing rapidly. Much of Japanese history has been made within its castle, and even foreign writers have made its romances known.* The last acts of the Shogunate were played there, and with its surrender the Restoration began. "Castles in India I know," wrote Rudyard Kipling, "and the forts of great emperors I have seen; but neither Akbar in the north, nor Scindia in the south had built after this fashion—without ornament, without color, but with a single eye to savage strength and the utmost purity of line." In one day, the traveller easily sees the more important sights; the Castle, the Tennoji Temple and Pagoda, the Mint, Arsenal, Hongwanji Temple, the Hakku Butsu or commercial bazaar, the theatre street, the large curio shops—and some of three hundred bridges. Osaka is the seat of bronze and metal manufacture, and the making of carpets, long a specialty of its daimio, is now one of its great commercial industries. The great silk shops contain the richest fabrics loom and hand can produce, but trade in them proceeds on THE SIGHTS OF OSAKA 1 "The Usurper. A Tale of the Siege of Osaka Castle." By Judith Gautier, Paris. THE MIAKODORI OR CHERRY-BLOSSOM DANCE 37 m leisurely Japanese lines, higlfily entertaining to one who has time at command, and maddenir|g to the hurried tourist, watch and jM. ¥ time table in hand. The foreign hotel is in th|, groyjils o^a,ferfpie which includes all of a small island in the^riv|P^rifrt tner'e are many Japanese restaurants and tea-house^th^at cafes wfthe foreign tastes of Osaka citizens, whose rice e^cchan^Pis juh maddest;! and most exciting stock market of its ^hrdP ii|jpfpan,, amLwell worth visiting. No traveller fails to visit Kiotofthl soul and centfe, the heart of old Japan, anil most fascinatinm Jity of the Empire. It is possible to go to Kioto by a mornKa train, see several temples, tiffin at Yaami's, visMlhe Palace | kioto and Castle, do a little shopping, ar|l§ return to ship at night, if ftae has a good giSae and is limited to that one day on shoreR The professional glides ap registered at the Kobe hotels. I Failing to Isecure pme, thai? flying tourist may telegraph YaBni to send an Englyh-specMng boy to the train at Kioto. pf| may visit fte two jfongwjpaji temples, the Dai Butsu and (piion-in temples befrae reipjing the hotel, whose proprietors Mere formerff guideaKincl knowing what the tourist wants to oifpught to^afjcani quiisklv putihim in the way of 1 P \1 \* The Kioto hotel *l\% the city, tffigAfaami) arid Miako hotels on the slopes of Majwyamami^kgpt&i foreis^ sty|§f Of the great *emplea4hj^CmpA-in M k MJpide neighbor of Yaami's, and its brepie lell7]pgifteeniS:| irMIngth, shakes the whole hotel when i^"inga this, [ff ifn|p|e K|b- mi|zu, Da^ Butsu, ^njiiSaiTOnclo.andfpie two temples Homgwanjjs, are the^meat ^ufighist Sl|r||es. .-^Mie i Hig^hi |fpngwanjii|vthe Srg^t temple inJJaMn, fovering 52,380 squale f£et f grounK<;anciii|#|f\to a height of i§6 feet, and its interi% fjs-t»e most splencl^lmghe enij^^M.fWhemiion, the great Shinto^hritt, lies at||f| fe^Ml Yaami's hill. BesMesJIhe old iSpter®Spa|ace anciphe Nijo.' Castle of the Shoguripi me visitor fsaould see the Kinkakujf (gold-cover£d pavilionMaj|d the Ginkakuji%'|sil|[er-covered pavilion) wh(jpl.ibeau- tiful landscape gardeij^^retllassic models after which "rait the miniature paradises of the lana are copied. Both monasteries contain treasures of ancient pictures and screens and both were-" 38 retreats of abdicated emperors, one of whom evolved the tea ceremony during his years of meditation in the Ginkakuji. The Art Museum near the Dai Butsu temple holds treasures lent from imperial and temple storehouses. Every visitor should walk the two bewitching streets of Teapot Hill: the one a half-mile lane of china shops leading to the Kiomidzu temple and the other conducting to the Nishi Otani temple. Nor should he miss the lane leading through a bamboo grove that joins the two streets, nor yet the shop-lined staircase that takes him to the foot of the Yasaka pagoda. A favorite excursion is to Takao, on the Oigawa, where the traveller takes flatboat and shoots the rapids of that river, and resumes jinrikisha at Arashiyama, a southwestern suburb of Kioto. The jinrikishas may be taken in the boat or another boat hired for them, and one may either carry a tiffin basket and feast as he flies down stream, or wait for the fare of the Arashiyama teahouses. Arashiyama is the Kioto synonym for cherry blossoms, and all the geishas in the empire have a dance that tells of cherry blossoming by the Oigawa. In April these hillsides rival the rosy slopes of Maruyama, where that enormous old Gion cherry tree, at the foot of Yaami's lane, has drawn worshipping crowds for three hundred years. While it blooms, a gala season reigns and the great dancing fete, the Miakodori, goes on at the neighboring geisha school. In the cherry blossom and wistaria season, a visit to Nara should never be omitted. The railway runs for twenty-six miles through the famous Yamashiro tea district, and Uji, the chief town, is always fragrant with the nara toasting leaf. The Musashino tea-house on the hill between the two temple grounds, the Kikuya and the Oya in PRIESTESSES AT NARA 39 the town, are the best tea-houses at Nara, and all are a little in foreign style. The Dai Butsu Temple contains a bronze statue of Buddha fifty-three and a half feet in height, and at the Kasuga Temple the young Shinto priestesses will perform the sacred dance after the visitor has made a gift of one or more yen to the temple. _ The tame deer that roam these temple grounds, and even the village streets, will come at call and eat from one's hand. XII. Speed is not a consideration for the voyage between Kobe and Nagasaki, a distance of 389 miles. The way lies in and out among the islands of the Inland Sea, the most picturesque stretch of enclosed ocean; an ideal, poetic region, where even the huge steamship seems to float enchanted, and all the sea and sky and shores are a day-dream. Silently the ship threads the narrowest of channels; square-sailed junks float by; towns, villages, castles, temples, forests, cultivated vales and terraced hills, sharply-cut peaks and low-running mountain chains succeed one another for a whole day. The railway is completed from Kobe to Shimonoseki, opposite Moji, whence the line continues to Nagasaki. Ujina, the naval station in the Inland Sea, is near the castle town of Hiroshima, opposite which is the sacred island of Miyajima, with its torii built far out in the water, all its shores lined with stone lanterns, and tame deer roaming among its wistaria-entangled groves as at Nara. No one has been born, nor has any one died on this sacred island, and its summer matsuris are feasts of lanterns and of picturesque- ness outdoing those of all other shrines. Miyajima is one of the Sankei, or three most beautiful views in Japan; but neither the Thousand Pine Clad Islands of Matsushima, off Sendai, nor Amano-Hashidate, the fairy peninsula on the coast of Tango province, can compare in charm to this "island without death." Launches and small steamers for cruising in the Inland Sea may be chartered at Kobe at rates varying from fifty to two hundred yens a week, the lessee providing coal and provisions. Owing to the fierce tidal currents and intricate navigation sailing yachts are seldom risked. At Shimonoseki, the ship passes the last narrow gateway and goes out to the open ocean for a short stretch, after which its route is close inshore, behind a chain of islands. Fishing boats 40 dot the water, villages and terraced fields break the shoreline, and the Arched Rock is always pointed out. The ship threads a narrow entrance and passes up the to Nagasaki long fiord to Nagasaki, a harbour ranking with Sydney and Rio de Janeiro for picturesqueness. The coal mines at the entrance of the harbour make this the most important port of call for the Asiatic fleets of all nations. The man-of-war anchorage always makes a fine show, and American transports from the Philippines help crowd the busy harbour. There is abundant time for passengers to explore the town and cross the hills to Moji for a fish tiffin, while the ship's bunkers are being filled by lines of men, women and children who pass small baskets from hand to hand, and do the work more speedily than any machinery—1,550 tons in five hours, the coaling record of one Empress. The Nagasaki Hotel, the club, the banks, the shipping offices are all on the Bund at the foot of the hillside set apart for foreigners' residence. The O'Suwa is the great temple and is surrounded by a public park. Near it is a general bazaar, a smaller edition of Osaka's great industrial aggregation, and there are many other such commercial mazes in the town. The Koransha, or Deshima, porcelain bazaar, is housed in buildings erected by the Dutch in the long ago, when they lived as prisoners on this walled and bridge-guarded island—all for the sake of a trade monopoly. The wares made at Arita, in this same province of Hizen, are brought from Imari to Deshima by junk, and one has choice of many beautiful designs. Tortoise shell carving is a specialty of Nagasaki, and one may watch the busy artisans sawing, cutting, carving and polishing all along the main street, while hand-made pearl buttons tempt one to buy by the great gross. Pierre Loti wrought much of Nagasaki into the background of "Mme. Chrysantheme," and "Mme. Butterfly" has added other literary landmarks. With Nagasaki as headquarters, one may spend many weeks in excursions into the real old Japan of the island of Kivshiv. Near by are the sulphur baths of Onzen, of Takeo and Ureshino, the porcelain district of Arita, and Kumamoto with its fine old castle; while Kagoshima, capital of the province of Satsuma, maybe reached by sea or land. I XIII. At Nagasaki, the zealous traveller, who would see North China and a little of Korea, may diverge from the route of the Canadian Pacific steamers. He may also take ship there for Vladivostock and Port Arthur, the termini of the trans-Siberian railway, should he prefer a land route to Europe.* Embarking in a Nippon Yusen Kaisha steamer he may visit Fusan and Gensan on the east coast of Korea, and, stopping at Chemulpo, go by the new railway, twenty-six miles inland, to the capital, Seoul. There is a Japanese hotel in foreign style at Chemulpo, and also in Seoul. The sights of Seoul, other than its picturesque street life, are few and far in seoul between. One looks at the eight gateways in the city wall — which are the gates and walls of Peking in miniature—at the palace gates, the marble pagoda and the bell tower in the city. Without the walls there is the boulder image of Buddha to the northwest; the temple and tomb of Queen Chung at the southwest; the temple to the Chinese God of war in the same suburb, and the village of Buddhist priests northeast of the city. Permission may sometimes be obtained from the Foreign Office to visit the abandoned palace, whose neglected buildings and pleasure grounds give an idea of the occupied palace. At rare intervals the king passes through the streets of the city, and the procession accompanying him is not like anything else to be seen in this century—a pageant unchanged in details since the Middle Ages. The streets are filthy, the houses mean and wretched, the people indolent, poor and unambitious; a crushed and spiritless race, who for centuries paid tribute to China and Japan to be let alone. Chefoo, the chief port of the province of Shantung, is a favorite THE SOUTH GATET:SEOUL This paragraph, as well as those immediately following, describe conditions as they existed prior to the outbreak of war between Japan and Russia. Conditions or may not be the same after peace is restored. 43 may watering place and summer resort for the foreign residents of North China. Pongee silk is the special manufacture of the neighborhood and may be bought at half the chefoo Shanghai prices. Wei-hai-wei, the British naval station, is but forty miles east, and the assured protection and the gaiety inevitable to the presence of a fleet and garrison promise itgreatvogue as asiummer refuge and sanatorium. After one has succeeded in the dread lottery of crossing- the Taku bar without a day's delay, he may take train at Tongku and reach Tien Tsin in two hours if good fortune also attends him on land. He has choice, too, of travelling eighty miles in the opposite direction to Shanhaikwan where the Great Wall of China winds ■>ver the hills and down to the sea, affording one of the seven most wonderful sights in the world. All the ground from Taku to Peking is now historic tien tsin by reason of the siege of Tien Tsin and the siege and relief of the Peking legations in 1900, and Tien Tsin native city suffered many changes and improvements at that critical time. A Chinese boy or travelling servant is a necessity in North China and may be secured at the hotel. The ride to Peking, past Yangtsun and Fengtai and other stations well known the world over in 1900, is tedious and fatiguing in rough, comfortless, crowded cars. The springless mule cart of Peking with its iron-studded wheels is the most uncomfortable vehicle in the world, but the introduction of the jinrikisha, just before the siege, has made some amelioration in street travel. The hotel and the banks are in the Legation quarter, which is now fortified to resist any siege; many of the legations are provisioned, and the German guns have the range and angle of each set of apartments in each palace. From the city wall behind the lega- THE GREAT AUDIENCE HALL IN THE FORBIDDEN CITY, PEKING 3 43 tions, one gets a bird's-eye view of the four cities—the outer or Chinese City, the innner or Tartar City, and within that the walls of the Imperial City, which surrounds the palace Peking enclosure or Forbidden City. The imperial family had not occupied their apartments in the old palace of the Forbidden City for several years before the siege. The Empress-Dowager lived in the Winter Palace in the Western Pleasure Ground adjoining the forbidden walls for the time she remained in Peking,- holding the Emperor prisoner in an island palace in the adjoining southern lotus lake. The Court spent half the year at the Summer Palace seven miles west of the city, which, destroyed by .the allies in i860, was partially rebuilt, only to be wantonly defaced and wrecked by Italian soldiers in 1901, after it had been emptied of its contents by the Russians. During the year of allied occupation every palace and temple in and around Peking was wide, open to visitors, the greatest sight-seeing of ten centuries—and an unique opportunity was afforded to study a wholly new school of architecture and decorative art never before seen in such purity and richness—an opportunity which only the Germans and Japanese improved to make hundreds of photographs, colored sketches and mechanical drawings. Ceilings as splendid as those of the Nikko temples and finer than all the ceilings in the Roman palaces were to be noted by the score, the finest flower of Mongol, Ming and Manchu art lavished on these THE HILL OF TEN THOUSAND AGES, IN THE SUMMER PALACE GROUNDS 44 expensive palace interiors and fantastic constructions, garden pavilions, colonnades and bridges. With the theft of the bronze astronomical instruments from the observatory on the city walls, the most interesting sight of Peking was obliterated. The Examination Hall, the Confucian Temple and the Hall of Classics remain unchanged, and the Lama Temple, once a very dangerous and place to visit and reputed '-A of great splendor, opens willingly now its shabby old courts and shrines, meek and rational Lamas greeting one in place of the truculent and high- priced ones of old. Prices are quoted in taels and sycee in Peking, and small payments are made in brass cash; but the tourist ordin- a r i 1 y uses only Mexican dollars and the notes of the foreign banks. The tael averages $1.33 Mexican, but the Tientsin, Shanghai and Haikwau tael differ in value and suffer daily quotations of exchange. There are curio shops on the broad Hatamen Street, and open air markets along the street that crosses it at the Four Pailows. Outside the Chienmen gate in the Chinese city, the Liu li Chang, or bookseller street, and Horse-and-Mule- Market Street hold scores of similar shops. Four days are required to visit the Great Wall of China and return by way of the Ming Tombs. The traveller may ride a pony A MANCHU LADY 45 J or donkey, or recline in a mule litter. A cart is necessary for the servant, bedding, table equipage and provisions, since the the great Chinese inn is very primitive and affords only a wall bare room for the wayfarer's use. The innkeep- of china ers are usually Mohammedans, whose cleanliness is traditionally greater than that of other Chinese. Carts are left at Nankov, and one progresses by pony or donkey up the pass to Chatao, where the Great Wall squarely bars the way. One looks down through the arched gate( to grassy Mongolia, and mounting to one of the tower rooms' for picnic luncheon, may then roam the wall for miles in either direction. The Ming Tombs are visited on the return trip, and sometimes the temples in the Western Hills where the legations are housed in midsummer, and from' whose terraces a comprehensive view may be had of the great Summer Palace enclosure. The Peking trip affords so much of novelty, strangeness and incident that it should by no means be omitted. It well repays one for all the discomforts and fatigue of the journey, and until one has seen the Manchu stronghold one can have little comprehension of the governing class, and of the real genius and spirit of Chinese civilization. XIV. When the Empress has sailed straight out into the sunset from Nagasaki harbour but a day intervenes until the thick, muddy waters of the literally Yellow Sea proclaim the edge of Asia, the submerged rim of the old mysterious continent, of the real Cathay. A low, brown line on the water, faint lines of trees, and the trail of steamers against the blank sky tell the nearness of some great port. Tenders meet the ship at the Woosung Bar, the "Heavenly Barrier," which the Chinese made more effectual during the French war of 1884 by sinking stone-loaded junks across all but one narrow channel. River improvements for the Peiho and the Woosung^ were imposed as a condition of the peace negotiations in 1901. A first railway from Woosung to Shanghai was built by subterfuge, then bought by the angry Chinese and destroyed. Before the end of the century, the sixteen-mile road was rebuilt, many Chinese owning shares, and the coolie class crowding the cars as they had previously. Two miles of factories, shipyards and wharves line the river banks below Shanghai, and, approached from the river, this largest foreign settlement of the Far East, the commercial capital of North China, presents an imposing appearance. Massive six- 46 |L exacting, story stone buildings front the long Bund, and the compounds of the Japanese and German Consulates are aligned on the Hongkew side, the old American Settlement. Across the creek bridge are the public gardens, shanghai the park surrounding the British Consulate, and the commercial heart of the city. Further up the waterfront the quais and rues of the French Settlement, and the blue and white signs at each street corner might be corners of Paris itself. The French Settlement is an indepedent, separate municipality, while the British and American are united in one International Settlement, governed by a Municipal Council, presided over by the Senior Consul, who for some years was the French representative, and again the Portuguese Consul. This anomalous condition may at any time be repeated in absurdity. The banks, clubs and shipping houses are on the Bund of the English Settlement. There are clubs of many kinds, and the spring and autumn races of the Jockey Club attract crowds from all the outports, and much money changes hands. Shanghai social life is formal elaborate and extravagant. The local sights and shows are easily seen in a day. No matter how warm the former friendship may have been, or how powerful the letters of introduction, never ask a resident of a Chinese port to accompany you to a native city, or talk to him about the excursion afterwards. The resident may tell you that he has never been in the Chinese city; or that he went once ten or twenty years ago. His compradore or house boy will find a friend, or the ever-ready cousin to act as guide. Entering by the north gate, at the end of the French Settlement, the visitor may balance himself on one of the passenger wheelbarrows and be trundled around the walls to the west or south gate and then walk through the city to the north gate. He will see the streets of silk, fur, china and other shops, and such swarms of people in the seven foot wide thoroughfares and side crevices, as support the estimate of 400,000 inhabitants. He must see the Mandarins' Club, or tea garden, the jewellers' guildhall, where THE NATIVE CITY 47 THE WILLOW PATTERN TEA-HOUSE, SHANGHAI u the foreign city, there are handsome shops on Nanking there is a continuous auction, and the temple in the midst of a serpentine pond approached by many crooked bridges, the veritable landscape immortalized on "willow pattern" plates. Around the pond are outdoor jugglers, fortune tellers, story tellers, menders, barbers and dentists plying their trades, and the din of voices and crowding of the people soon drive him on In Road and the Maloo. There is a Chinese theatre in the quarter near the city walls, and gorgeous costuming is the redeeming point in its deafening dramas. Marry Chinese prefer to dwell in the foreign settlement, where they are amenable to foreign laws and a just taxation, and where offences are tried in the mixed Court, which is composed of a Chinese magistrate sitting with two members of the Consular Board. Rich Chinese come to Shanghai from all the back provinces to spend their money, and enjoy officially-made fortunes. The drives of Shanghai are out the Bubbling Well Road and back, out the Sica-wei Road and back, but the rapid extension of the settlement has left few glimpses of green fields or even of grave mounds to cheer one on a pleasure drive. A trip by house-boat through the network of rivers, creeks and canals that cover the country is very interesting. On the boat one lives as luxuriously as on shore, and Shanghai is an epicure's and sybarite's abode. Notices of the departure of steam launches for Woosung are always posted at the consulates, hotels and club, and information of such departures may be had from the agents of the Canadian Pacific Company, Messrs. Jardine, Matheson & Co. There is now a government post-office department in China, "mt each consulate has still its own post-office in POSTAL arrangements From Shan S lan ghai, and sells its own postage stamps and ils for Japan, America and Europe. despatches 1 rfiai, a most intere ittng trip may be made up the 48 L Yang-tse River, one of the world's greatest streams, which rises in the high plains of Thibet, known as "The Roof of the World," and flows for three thousand miles to the sea. Luxuriously appointed steamers run between TEA Shanghai and the great tea port of Hankow, DISTRICTS touching on the way at Chinkiang, Kiukiang and Nanking, and traversing a carefully cultivated garden all the way. Each town has its interesting pagodas and temples; the river banks present an unceasing panorama of native life, and the water populations add to the picturesquesness and interest. Each town has its specialties, silks, silverware, fans, porcelain or faience, and the black tea crop of the empire is raised and cured along this river. Russian and English buyers take nearly all of the Hankow tea and little goes to the United States or Canada, where the oolongs and greener teas of South China and of Japan are chiefly consumed. At Hankow, the traveller may take steamer for Ichang, still further up the river, from which he may easily reach the famous gorges of the Yang-tse and the first and second rapids, a succession of stupendous canons through which the great stream races madly. A sportsman will find the Chinese house-boat the epitome of comfort, and while sailing and tracking along the upper reaches of the river may treat himself to the finest pheasant shooting in the world. Wild boars abound in the hills near Chinkiang and at other places, and the natives usually welcome the hunters who destroy these depredators of their fields and flocks. The recent anti-foreign riots are warning, however, that the tourist should be well-informed before leaving foreign settlements on any hunting trip. At Foochow, there is the Chinese arsenal and navy yard, and usually some of its European-built men-of-war are to be seen. The river life will interest the waiting voyageurs, but shops and specialties are few, barring the iri- foochow descent green lacquer, long the secret of one family whose ancestor, captured and carried away by a Japanese pirate, learned the art in Nagasaki. Amoy has a picturesque, junk-crowded harbour. In the season, loads of tea are constantly arriving from Tamsui and other ports on the island of Formosa. From orchards up the river come the choicest pumeloes, that most amoy delicious of citrus fruits, which was transplanted by Captain Shaddock to the western hemisphere. Amoy pumeloes and the Amoy grass cloth are both superior specialties of the place. 49 W /r xv. tains of burnt ters, and the harbour 501th A biuepblue sea, a barren brown rock rising sheer from the exquisite splendid amphitheatre 6T Hong JS.ons hong kong opens before one—a watery arena thr merchantmen and men-of-war of Steam launches carry the cabin passenger ashodb, an sole arbiter of his own belongings .witl^aa^^dAnt^ference or impertinence of a Custom House—Honggjj^J^^aiul, af really free country and actual land of liberty. ^ampan^§.w_arr/ injthe harbour by hundreds, each boat mannedA^^shriJfe^^^^^^man, who steers, sculls, cooks, manages .h^*4***^^^^ orive^-'-the bargains, and, with her sister boatwomen, chatten^ncessanjly. Situated on the steep slope of a mountain, Hon^^QU£^-<ft Vll?Z^^'^i:J.T.Y' the eighteen hundre<r*TOHg|iti&he summit of the HONG KONG ,-, . °. (c ,„ ^VF^z^ j i i Peak, is as superb as GeBoa^nd looks upon one of the world's most beautiful harbours. \| With English rule the bare, burned hillsides haVe been clothed with pine trees, terraced with the lines of^s^jjjjcts co^gying water, and the island's edge crowded for thrccHBBjlHt^pfn solid stone buildings. A cable road communicates^flPTii i ffnCT-sn^yhich is dotted over with summer villas\ This city of Victoria, capital of the island colony of Hong small court with great state the British Asiatic fleet, anc and^fc^rkshops on the island anc fujiuihsgfeffei'y munition and requirement for war or peace in this G i bTa'lr ar^^fej^E^^^' TJnL'lniglTr4§j|!(ho island of Hong Kong is eleven miles, and its width varies fromrmi to four miles. There are less than 10,000 Europeans in the colony, but a Chinese population of 200,000 has settled around them, although really confined to the western end of the lower levels of the town. A jinrikisi^Lride down the Praya and the Queen's Road will convince one tTW^fcLL. figiu^gjpf the Chinese population are put too low, if ?fe4lSig| 20,000 Chinese live on the harbour-boats besides. ^^^^^-^3£^> Landing at Pedder's Wharf, the traveller is almost at his hotel door, unless he should arrive during summer, when the hotels at the Peak will be his refuge. The Clock Tower is the centre from which all distances are measured, and the banks, clubs and shipping offices are in the immediate neighborhood. Queen's Road presents /hose governor maintains a jadquarters station of f^jT^EFwai, docks, foundries the opposite Kowloon shore f 5° a continuous double arcade of shops for a mile and more, all the silver, silk, ivory, lacquer, porcelain, carved wood and ornamental products of South China industries filling windows and rooms. The streets swarm with a motley crowd—Jews, Turks, Mohammedans, Europeans, Hindoos, Javanese, Japanese, Malays, Parsees, Sikhs, Cingalese, Portuguese, half-castes, and everywhere the hard-featured Chinese coolies, carrying poles, buckets, baskets and sedans, or trotting clumsily before a more clumsy jinrikisha. An Indian ayah, swathed in white, descends the long stairway of a side street, banked with the baskets of a legion of insistent flower peddlers; a Sikh policeman stands statuesque and imperial at his corner; and a Pathan soldier, as tremendously turbaned, but all in Khaki, strides by on pipe-stem legs swinging the largest and best-blacked boots in the world; a professional mender, with owlish spectacles, sits by her baskets of rags, darning and patching; a barber drops his pole and boxes and begins to operate upon a customer; rows of coolies sitting against some greasy wall submit their heads to one another's friendly attentions; a group of pig- tailed youngsters play a . sort of shuttlecock with their feet; peddlers split one's ears with their yells; fire-crackers sputter and bang their appeals to joss; and from the harbour comes the boom of naval salutes for some arriving _ man-of-war, the admiral, governor, or a consul paying ship visits. Such, the constant, bewildering panorama of Queen's Road, the Praya and other thoroughfares, busiest and most cosmopolitan of where the East and the West touch hands—Asia, highways 51 Australia, Oceania, Europe and America meet and mingle unconcernedly. The traveller should see the City Hall and its museum, and take a jinrikisha ride past the barracks to the Race Course in Happy Valley, and visit the Jewish, Parsee, Mohammedan, Anglican and Catholic cemeteries which surround the great oval pleasaunce. Race week is in February, and is the gala time of the Hong Kong year, and any winter morning one may see zealous golfers perspiring from one to-another of the three holes that constitude the colony's links. In opposite Kowloon there are great barracks for the Mohammedan troops, who have their own tiny mosque, which none may enter, and a genuine East Indian village where their families and followers reside—women in nose rings and head sheets, children in anklets and Pan jab finery. Avenues of banyans, clumps of tree ferns and enormous poin- settas give a tropical setting to every high-level road, and the Botanical Gardens are justly the pride of the colony. One is carried swiftly up the stone and cement staircases of the side streets in luxurious Sedan chairs. The chair-bearers rap the poles to tell one to sit still, or to move to one side or the other of the chair to balance the weight evenly; the passenger raps the poles when he wishes to turn or stop, rapping the right or left pole to indicate which way to turn or to be set down. One quickly picks up a few words of pigeon-English, and finds maskee for all right, go ahead, agreed, never mind, etc., a most useful word. Top side for up-stairs. pidgin for business, affairs, concerns; chop chop for right away, quickly; chow chozv, or simply chow, for food; piecee for thing or article; side for place, region, home, country, etc.; catch for fetch, carry, get, bring and buy, are the most commonly used in one's hearing, and are so quickly adopted in speech that at first one cannot utter a correct English phrase, owing to the corrupting spell of "pidgin." XVI. In two hours one may go from Hong Kong to Macao, a three- century-old Portuguese town on the mainland, see its ancient forts, the gardens and grotto where Camoens wrote his macao poems; watch the white and Chinese gamblers in this Monte Carlo of the Far East: view the loading of opium cargoes; rest at an excellent hotel, and enjoy the sea baths. One day is quite enough for the ordinary traveller to give to Canton sights and sounds. A river steamer will carry him from 52 Vl Si«2is^!fii8yyl Hong Kong ninety miles up the Pearl River to Canton, the city of three million inhabitants, and before the hawsers are made fast the din of that many voices reaches his ears like the roar of angry surf. There is a good hotel on the Shameen, the island reserved as a foreign settlement, whose bridges are closed and guarded night and day, while the enclosing sea wall, level with the island, invites anyone to step ashore. The professional guides present their cards and appraise their consignments at the moment of arrival and, in superior chairs, lead the procession of sightseers over a fixed route that gives a glimpse of every quarter of Canton, whose people are so ill-disposed to foreigners that the visitor is warned not to invite or resent any unpleasant remarks or gestures. In turn one visits the Temple of Five Hundred Genii; the Water Clock in the temple on the walls; the canton Temple of Horrors, with a courtyard full of fortunetellers and beggars; the Execution Ground, Examination Hall, and the five-story pagoda on the city walls, where the guide will find §f chairs and table, and set forth the luncheon brought from the steamer or hotel. Returning across the city, one visits the Flowery Pagoda, the ruin of a once splendid marble structure; the old English Yaamen, where the first foreign legation was housed in 1842; the Temple of the Five Genii, the Magistrates' Court, the City Prison, and the Green Tea Merchants' Guild Hall, and returns in time for tea, and a walk through the quiet, banyan- shaded avenues and along the Bund of Shameen. Thousands of boats, upon which many thousands of people are born, live, marry and die, a separate class and clan from the landsmen, fringe the river bank and crowd the network of creeks that intersect the city. 53 STREET IN CANTON if Between the temples one sees the panorama of the open shops, streets of silk and jade and jewellers' shops; weavers' dens and goldbeaters' caves; shoe shops, cabinet shops, meat and cook shops on either side. Unknown cookery simmers, sputters and scents the air. Dried ducks hang by half-yard-long necks, and a queer flat bit of dried meat declares itself by the long, thin tail curled like a grape tendril, to be the rat. The rat is in the market everywhere, alive in cages, fresh or dried on meat-shop counters; and dried ones are often bought as souvenirs of a day in Canton and proof of the often-denied rat story. Theatres are many; shops of theatrical wardrobes are endless in one quarter; dealers in old costumes abound; and there are pawn shops and curio shops without end, where imitations and counterfeits of everything Chinese delude the credulous tourist. The law allows no street to be less than seven feet in width, and some do not exceed it. Down these narrow lanes, with matted awnings overhead, between swinging black, gold and vermilion signboards, the people swarm. Two chairs can barely pass. To turn some sharp corners the poles are run far into the shops, and when a mandarin's chair or mounted escort appears, one is hustled into an open shop front, and is not safe then from the bumping and brushing of the train. He dreams afterwards, as a nightmare, of this city of Oriental riches and barbaric splendor, the city of the greatest wealth and the direst poverty, and he sees again the narrow, seething thoroughfares, the blaze of gold and vermilion, the glitter and glow of showy interiors, where, if the Queen of Sheba did not live, she certainly went a-shopping. From Hong Kong the seaways diverge like the spokes of a wheel to all the ends of the earth, and the traveller may take ship to any country of the globe. Australia and New Zealand are on one great route of travel, and wintering there, the tourist may, at the close of the hurricane season—February and March—make a loop through that lazy, lovely, tropical realm, the South Sea, visit Samoa, Tahiti and Fiji, and from Levuka take ship back to Hong Kong. Small steamers run daily to Manila, in the American East Indies, in sixty hours, and two lines of large Australian mail steamers touch regularly at Manila in going and Manila coming. Much of interest remains in the old Spanish walled town, and recent history has made the environs historic. The railway to Dagupan makes a glimpse 54 of the provinces possible, and a boat trip up the river and around Laguna del Baia, will show much of real Filipino life and Philippine scenery. From November to March the weather is dry and agreeably hot. From March to November the great heat, the rains, the possible typhoons and always rough harbour offer few inducements to pleasure travellers. The grand route, however, is on to India, and the steamers give rest for a day at Singapore, that equatorial centre of the Eastern universe, where all the ways of commerce cross, and people of all nations, bound for all the remote corners of the globe, meet at the one famous hotel for their curries and cooling drinks, and drive to the great Botanical Garden later. From this water cross-roads he may take the little thirty-six-hour run across the Equator to Batavia by almost daily steamers. Java, with its wonders of nature, the ruins of the greatest temples in the world, the monuments and relics of a past civilization, attracts more travellers, archaeologists and botanists each winter, and the completion of a java railway system makes it possible to travel quickly and comfortably across the most beautiful island in the tropics. The lack of efficient guides and travelling servants and the rigors of the passport regulations make travel very irksome in contrast to Japan or India. A fortnight's absence from Singapore will allow the tourist to make the trip to Java and return, seeing Batavia, Bvitenzorg and the wonderful Botanical Garden, Djokjakarta, Soerakarta and the ruins of Boro Boedor and Brambanam. If time permits, he can linger delightfully at Sindanglaya, Garoet, and Tosari, mountain resorts that are neighbors to active volcanoes. He may then follow the grand route from Singapore to Colombo, or, diverging, visit Burma on the way to Calcutta. Even the one day at anchor off Rangoon affords one a comprehensive view of Burmese life, and the living burma Buddhist religion of Farther India as it clusters around the Great Pagoda, most splendid of all pagodas in the land crowded with such merit-acquiring monuments. In Rangoon, too, he sees "the elephants a-pilin' teak," and, with a day in Mandalay, and a look at the colossal Sleeping Buddha at Pegu on the way, he has an epitome of Burma. At'Colombo, the tourist rests again for a day and tranships, or, taking train for Kandy, climbs to the heights, sees Adams Peak, Buddha's tooth, tea plantations, cinchona groves and coffee estates, and everywhere may buy the delusive sapphire and 55 M cat's-eye, manufactured perhaps at Birmingham for the globetrotter trade. From Ceylon, the thorough-going tourist will cross to Tuti- corin, and thence to Madras and Calcutta by rail. December, January and February are the months for Indian ceylon travel. In the winter season, unfortunately, the hill stations are all but deserted, and little of Rudyard Kipling's Simla can be found in that place of barred and boarded houses; but the Himalayas show all their glory from Darjiling. As the Viceroy leaves Calcutta for Simla about March and stays there during the hot months, returning to Calcutta as soon as the cold season approaches, the visitor who would see something of the pageantry and splendor he has imagined, should so time his movements. Christmas week is the gala time of the Calcutta year, when hotels are crowded, and tents on the roofs and in the gardens hardly accommodate the overflow. From Bombay, a ship conveys him further on the round, and once past the Red Sea, the real East is left—for Suez and the Levant are virtually Europe to dwellers in Cathay—and then the Far East seems indeed a dream. so BOOKS OF REFERENCE ON JAPAN AND CHINA 'Murray's Hand Book for Travelers in Japan"—by B. H. Chamberlain and W. G. Mason. ' The Mikado's Empire ") . w ^ <-,;«;,. H v , u „ ,, ,, ' Fairy World I f —by W. E. Griffis. New York: Harper & Brothers. ' Japan—Travels and Researches " ) ltt-d-xtit-ia^. or. 'The Industrial Arts of Japan" £—byj. J.Rein. New York : A. C. Armstrong & Son. ' Japan—Its Art, Architecture and Art Manufactures "—by Dr. Christopher Dresser. London : Longmans, Green & Co. ' Japanese Homes "—by Prof. E. S. Morse. New York : Harper & Brothers. ' Pictorial Arts of Japan "—by Dr. W. Anderson. London. ' Japanese Art and Artists "—by M. B. Huish, London : Fine Arts Society. ' Artistic Japan"—by S. Bing. Paris and London j Sampson, Marston & Lowe. ' An Artist's Letters from Japan"—by John La Farge. New York: The Century Co., 1897. 'Japan—Its History, Traditions and Religion"—by Sir Edward Reid. London: John Murray. ' Unbeaten Tracks in Japan "—by Miss Isabella Bird. London : John Murray. ' The Soul of the Far East " ) . p • , T ,, 'Noto; an Unexplored Corner of Japan " >• iZ.Kt Si; , „tr„ ' Occult Japan » ) Boston : Tlcknor & Co. ' Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan " "j 'Out of the East" 'r?T^S2= nlJ TjlmT,„, tttttttio'' L—by Lafcadio Hearn. 'EX™AND RUEDTROSpIcTI^S» B°St°" ' K™^™< Miffi" & <*. 'Shadowings" ' A Japanese Miscellany" I ' Problems and Politics of the Far East"—by George N. Curzon. London. ' f^ONfcA>"LAN1DS 1 \~~by Sir Edwin Arnold. New York : Chas. Scribner's Sons, 1891. 'The Real Japan" )— by Henry Norman. • The Peoples and Politics of the Far East" 5 New York : Charles Scribner's Sons. 'Mme. Chrysantheme." Paris: Callmam-Levy. ) ' Japonaiseries d'Automne." Paris: Callmam-Levy. >—by Pierre Loti. 'Japanese Women." Harper's Magazine, Dec, 1890. ) 'Japanese Girls and Women"—by Alice Bacon. Boston : Houghton, Mifflin &Co.,i89i. ' Jinrikisha Days in Japan "—by Eliza Ruhamah Scidmore. New York : Harper & Bros., 1891. ' Things Japanese"—by Basil Hall Chamberlain, 1891. ' The Flowers of Japan and the Art of Floral Arrangement"—by Josiah Conder. Yokohama : Kelly & Walsh, 1891. 'Japanese Architecture"—by Josiah Conder and J. McD. Gardiner. 'Landscape Gardening in Japan"—by Josiah Conder. ' L'Art Japonaise"—by Louis Gonse. Paris. ' Corea—The Hermit Nation "—by W. E. Griffis. New York : Harper & Brothers. ' Choson—The Land of the Morning Calm "—by Percival Lowell. Boston : Houghton, Mifflin & Co. ' The Middle Kingdom "—by S. Wells Williams. New York : Charles Scribner's Sons. 'Chinese Characteristics" ) ' The Chinese Village" \— by Rev. A. Smith. New York : Fleming, Revell & Co. ' China in Convulsion" ) ■■■■ >T ,r , ' China; Travels in the Middle Kingdom "—by General James H. Wilson. New Vork : D. Appleton & Co. Chinese Porcelain "—by W. G. Gulland. London, 1898. L'Art Chinois"—by M. Paleologue. Paris. La Ceramique Chinois "—by E. Grandidier. Paris. China, the Long-Lived Empire" )—bv Eliza R. Scidmore. Java, the Garden of the East" ) New York : Century Co., 1900. 57 L3 tr I LIST OF PRINCIPAL AGENCIES WHOM SAILINGS, TICKETS AND OTHER PARTICULARS MAY BE OBTAINED Adelaide So. Australia. .Australian United S. N. Co. (Ltd.) Amoy China.. Jardine, Matheson & Oo. vfiv-i u „ . S Lissonne & Zoon Smgel No. 155 Amsterdam Holland j Thomas Cook & Son 83 Damrak Antwerp Belgium..H. Debenham, Continental Traffic Agent 3 Quai Taverniers Auckland New Zealand. .Thomas Cook & Son. Union S. S. Co. of N. Z. (Ltd.) Baden-Baden Germany. .F. W. Shick , .Sophienstrasse 5 Baltimore Md.. David H. Morse, Freight and Pass'r Agent, ill 1-2 W. Fayette St. Bangkok Siam. .'Windsor & Co. Batavia Java. .MacLaine, Watson & Co. Belfast Ireland• ■ W. McCalla & Co 41 Victoria St. n ,. _ < Carl Stangen Friedichstrasse 72 Berlin uermany j international Sleeping Car Co 69 Unter den Linden _ . , .. (Ewart, Lathom & Co. Bombay India \ Thomas. cook & Son 13 Esplanade Road Bordeaux France. .International Sleeping Car Co St. Jean Station Boston Mass. .H. J. Colvin, District Passenger Agent- 362 "Washington St. Brindisi Italy..Thomas Cook & Son Strada, Marina Brisbane Aus. .The British India & Queensland Agency Co. (Ltd.) Bristol England. .F. W. Forster, Traffic Agent 18 St. Augustine's Parade Brockville Ont..G. E. McGlade, Ticket Agt., Cor. King St. and Court House Ave. R . R , . ( Thomas Cook & Son 41 Rue de la Madeline Brussels Belgium < international Sleeping Car Co Nord.Station Bucharest Roumania. .International Sleeping Car Co Strada Vam6i, 1 Buffalo N. Y. R. A. Burford, City Pass'r and Freight Agent 233 Main St. f International Sleeping Car Co., Correspondents, Maison Cairo Egypt X Debbone, Rue Bab el Haded. (Thomas Cook & Son Near Shepheards Hotel f. , .. i a' *> Gillanders, Arbuthnot & Co. Calcutta India | xhomas Cook & Son 9 Old Court House St. Canton China.. Jardine, Matheson & Co. <-™„«t„„,_ c A*.:,... <i Wm. Anderson &Co 52 St. George St. Cape Town So. A.nca \ Thomas Cook & Son H6 St. George St. Chemulpo Korea..Holme, Ringer & Co. Chicago .111. .A. C. Shaw, Gen'l Agent Passenger Dept 228 S. Clark St. Christiania Norway. .A. Raffel, Ticket Agent Lille Strangade, 3a n. n (International Sleeping Car Co Central Station Cologne Qermanyi Thomas Cook & Son... 1 Dornhof rrn1 .„ n t I Bois Brothers. Colombo Cey'on | Thomas Cook & Son. r^-„4„ *•_„„!» t ivX ( Thomas Cook & Son 12 RueCabrlstan Constantinople Turkey | international Sleeping Car Co Pera Palace Hotel Copenhagen Denmark. .Joachim Prahl, Tourist Agent Kongers Nytorv 34 Detroit Mich..A. E. Edmonds, City Passenger Agent 7Fort St. W. Dunedin New Zealand- .Union S. S. Co. of New Zealand (Ltd.) Durban So. Africa. .Wm. Cotts & Co. and Thomas Cook & Son. Dusseldorf Germany. .Emil Hess, Tourist Agent. Fiji (Lavuka and Suva) Union S. S. Co. of New Zealand (Ltd.) Foo Chow China..Jardine, Matheson & Co. Frankfort Germany.. International Sleeping Car Co 19 Kaiserstrasse Fusan Korea. .Holme, Ringer & Co. Geneva Switzerland. .Thomas Cook & Son, Tourist Agents 90 Rue Du Rhone Genoa Italy. .Thomas Cook & Son, Tourist Agents, 17 Piazza de la Marldiana Via Cairoli. Gibraltar Thomas Cook & Son, Tourist Agents Waterport St. Glasgow Scotland■ .Thos. Russell, Traffic Agent 67 St. Vincent St. Halifax N.S. -J. D. Chlpman, City Pass'r and Ticket Agent 107 Hollis St. Hamburg. Germany. .Thomas Cook & Son 39 Amsterdamm Hamilton Bermuda..Jos. A. Conyers. Hamilton Ont.. W. J. Grant Cor. King and James Sts. Hankow China..Jardine, Matheson & Co. Havre France. .Hernu, Peron & Co i Rue Anfrey Hong Kong D. E. Brown, General Agent, China, Japan, etc. Honolulu H.I. .Theo. A. Davies & Co. (Ltd.) Jerusalem Palestine..Thomas Cook & Son David St. Johannesburg—So. Africa..Wm. Cotts & Co. Keeling (Taipeh).. -Formosa. .Jardine, Matheson & Co. Kingston Jamaica. .George & Branday. Kobe Japan. .G. Millward 14 A Maye-Maehi I ivornnnl Pno-lanri 5 J- J- Gilbertson, Traffic Agent 24 James St. uverpooi bngland}F< Mar-shall, Passenger Mgr 24JamesSt. 58 London England. .Archer Baker, European Traffic Manager, 62-65 Charing Cross, S.-W., and 67 and 68 King William St., E. C. London Ont.. W. Fulton, City Passenger Agent 161 Dundas St. Lucerne Switzerland..Thomas; Cook & Son, Tourist Agents Schwanenplatz Madras India. .Arbuthnot & Co. Madrid Snain \ Thomas" Cook & Son 5 Carrera de S. Geronimo maaria Spain } international Sleeping Car Co 18 Calle de Alcala Malta 5 Thomas Cook & Son 308 Strada Reale Valleta 1,""u» ( Turnbull, Jr., & Somerville, Correspondents. Manila Philippine Is..Smith, Bell& Co. Marquette Mich. -Geo. W. Hibbard, General Passenger Agent, D. S. S. & A. Ry. Marseilles Franrp > Thomas'.Cook & Son, Tourist Agents 11B Rue Noailles Marseilles t-rance ( Hernu Peron (Ltd.> 52 Rue Pubis de Chabannes Masampo Korea.. Holme, Ringer & Co. Melbourne Aus..Union S^S. Co. of New Zealand (Ltd.) Minneapolis flinn. -W. R. Callaway, General Passenger Agent, Soo Line. M„.fe Carir. Mr>i,<./-r. i Thomas Cook & Son, Credit Lyonnais. ..Avenue des Beaux Arts ivionte carlo Monaco | international Sleeping Car Co Galerle du Grand Hotel Montreal Que. -C. E. E. Ussher, General Passenger Agent, Eastern Lines. Moscow Russia--International Sleeping Car Co Hotel Metropole Nagasaki Japan. .Holme, Ringer & Co. Naples Italy..Thomas Cook & Son Piazzi del Martii New York N. Y. .E. V. Skinner, Assistant Traffic Manager 45S Broadway Niagara Falls N. Y- -D. Isaacs. Prospect House ( Thomas Cook & Son 16 Avenue Massena International Sleeping Car Co 2 Avenue Massena R. Meny & Co Quai des Bateaux de Londres Nice. France; 0stend Belgium } international Sleeping Car Co ~. The Digue Ottawa Ont. .George Duncan, City Passenger Agent 42 Sparks St. ( Thomas Cook & Son 1 Place de l'Opera Paris France < International Sleeping Car Co 3 Place de l'Opera (Hernu Peron & Co. (Ltd.) 01 Boulevard Haussman Penang—St's Settlements. .Boustead & Co. Philadelphia Pa- -H. McMurtrie, Freight and Pass'r Agent 629-631 Chestnut St. rj.fj . D \ F. W.Salsbury,Dist. FreightandPass'r Agent.SlOFrickBuildmg KiiTSDurg *^a 1 J. J. McCormick & Co., Ticket Agents 506 Smithfleld St. Portland Me. -H. A. Snow, Ticket Agent Maine Central Rd Union Depot Portland Ore. -F. R. Johnson, Passenger Agent 142 Third St. Prague Austria. .Schenker & Co. Quebec Que. .Jules Hone, Jr., C. F. & P. A 30 St. John St., Cor. Palace Hill Dono-nnn u„.m„i, ( Gillanders, Arbuthnot & Co. Rangoon Burmah } Thomas Cook & Son Merchant St. D ... ( Thomas Cook & Son 54 Piazza, Esedra de Tirmini Kome Italy j international Sleeping Car Co 93 Place San Silvestro St. John N. B• .F. R. Perry, Acting District Passenger Agent 8 King St. St. Paul Minn.. W. S. Thorn, Asst. G. P. A., Soo Line 379 Robert St. St. Petersburg Russia..International Sleeping Car Co 5 Perspective Newsky Samarang Java. .MacNeill & Co. Sandakan.. Brit. N. Borneo..W. Darby & Co. San Francisco Cal. -M. M. Stern, District Freight and Passenger Agent, 627 Market St., Palace Hotel Building. Sault Ste. Marie Mich. .T. R. Harvey Steamship Wharf Seattle Wash. .A. B. Calder, Gen'l Agent Pass'r Dept., Mutual Life Building, 608 First Avenue. Shanghai China. .Jardine, Matheson & Co. Singapore, St's Settlements. .Boustead & Co. Sourabaya Java. .Fraser, Eaton & Co. Strasburg International Sleeping Car Co.(Correspondents)9 Weissturmring c . m c «j I Union S. S. Co. of New Zealand (Ltd.) Sydney IN. b. W , w> stitt, General Passenger Agent, Can.-Aus. S. S. Line. Tacoma Wash. -Joseph W. Draper, Freight and Pass'r Agent—917 Pacific Ave. Toronto ....- Ont. -C. B. Foster, District Passenger Agent 1 King St. East Vancouver B. C..E. J. Coyle, Assistant General Passenger Agent. Venice Italy.. Thomas Cook & Son, Tourist Agents j piazza gan Marco ("Thomas Cook & Son 2 Stefanplatz .T. . . . I Schenker & Co. j* Vienna A ustria i international Sleeping Car Co 15 Karnthner Ring l_N. Rosenstein 1 Rothenthurm str. Victoria B. C. .H. H. Abbott, Freight and Passenger Agent. .86 Government St. Wakamatsu Japan. .Holme, Ringer & Co. . Warsaw Russia. .International Sleeping Car Co Hotel Bristol Washington D. C. .David H. Morse ... .Bond Building, 14th St. and New York Ave. Wellington New Zealand..Union S. S. Co. of New Zealand (Ltd.) Wiesbaden Germany - .International Sleeping Car Co 36 and 37 Theater Colonnade Winnipeg Man.. C. E. MePherson, General Passenger Agent, Western Lines. Yokohama Japan. .Wm. T. Payne, General Traffic Agent for Japan 14 Buna Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son, Tourist Agents, with offices in all parts of the world, are also agents of the Canadian Pacific Ry., and can supply tickets and information. 59 r CLIMATE—JAPAN TOKYO OBSERVATORY YEAR Mean Temperature (Fahrenheit) Mean Maxima Mean Minima Mean Rainfall (inches) Number of Rainy Days ^Days with Snow 57 0 65 4 48 7 58 46 i39 5 12 1 Vancouver 85 4283 4629 5^3 546l 627I TABLE OF DISTANCES (DIRECT) Victoria 4198 4544 4928 5376 6186 Yokohama Kobe 346 730 1178 I988 384 832 I642 Nagasaki 448 I258 Woosung (Shanghai) 810 Hong Kong Vancouver to Montreal 2904 Miles Montreal to Quebec 173 Quebec to Liverpool 2661 Montreal to Boston 341 New York to San Francisco 3266 Montreal to Halifax 756 Halifax to Liverpool 2342 Montreal to New York 384 New York to Liverpool 3130 San Francisco to Yokohama 4750 " " via Honolulu 5477 60 1 INDEX PAGE Aleutian Islands 16 Amoy 49 Amusements 26, 30, 31 Atami 29 Banff 9 Books of Reference 57 Burma 55 Calcutta 56 Canton 53, 54 Ceylon 56 Chefoo 43 Chemulpo 42 Chiuzenji 34 Chrysanthemums 32 Climate of Japan 60 Colombo 55 Curios 25 Dai Butsu 27 Foochow 49 Fujiyama 28 Great Wall of China 43, 46 Guides 23, 53 Health 24 Hong Kong 50, 54 Hotels 21 Ikao 34 Illecillewaet Glacier 11 Inland Sea 40 Java 55 Jinrikisha 20 Kamakura 27 Kanozan 29 Karuizawa 34 Kioto 38 Kobe 35 Kootenay 11 Laggan 10 Lake Louise 9 Lake Superior 8 Literature of Japan 18, 19, 57 PAGE Luggage 25 Macao 52 Manila 54 Miyajima 40 Miyanoshita 29 Money, Japanese 22 Montreal 7 Nagoya 35 Nara 39 Nagasaki 41 Nikko 33, Wjfcfi Numerals, Japanese 2#^K£;j Omori 30 Osaka 36 Peking 44 Pigeon English 52 Port Arthur 42 Prairies 8 Quebec 6 Railways, Japanese 22 Revelstoke 11 Rocky Mountains 9 Seoul 42 Servants 23 Shanghai 47 Shidzuoka 35 Steamships 12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 18 Takakkaw Falls 10 Tea Districts 39. 49 Telegraph, Japanese 23 Tien Tsin 43 Time 16 Tokyo 32 Vancouver 12 Victoria 14 Winnipeg 8 Woosung 46 Yangtse Rive:- 49 Yokohama .." 20 Yokosuka 27 Memo ,M . r Memo I 1 J Memo mSmssm / YOKOHAMA A Grand Hotel B Nippon Yusen Kaisha. C Post Office and Police Station. D Machi-Gaisho. E Police Station (Municipal). F British Naval Depot. G Club Hotel. H XJ. S. Hospital. I General Hospital. J N. Y. K. Coal Sheds. K Road to Race Course. L Oriental Hotel. M Police Station. l.Abukuma-Qawa Choshi fyC.lnuboe Y\,Clshinomaki ^shim^ ShiogamaW/ &?* ^ &*'' MAP N ^C.Shi-o-zakl <£? V-- -"" Canadian Pacific Railway Oo.'s STEAMSHIP ROUTE CENTRAL and SOUTHERN JAPAN Scale of English Miles 150 "koyakiZ^ C.Nomo Railway Lines in Operation Lines under Construction C.P.R. Steamboat Route .
Ephemera
English
Vancouver : University of British Columbia Library
Box 224
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Original Format: University of British Columbia. Library. Rare Books and Special Collections. The Chung Collection. CC-TX-224-21
Westward to the far east
Text