CONTENTdm
C.P.R. steamships
Canadian Pacific Railway Company
Travel
Tourism
Steamboats
Ocean travel
Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection
Canadian Pacific Railway Company. Passenger Department
Pamphlet promoting travel through Canada and Asia and Canadian Pacific steamships.
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•Ami Jfc 1 1 I ■ jnpan ■ CHinn - mnmiB ■ Honoium IAN PACIFIC TO frPR ROM fl#l\ I""'"' | Oient m? H -8fc ^^ -— •fj|| —, KJ9k V I It ml mm i THE Canadian Pacific Route is the Highway to the Orient. It provides, in three giant strides, a direct service from Europe to the countries of the Far East:— Across the Atlantic—Canadian Pacific Steamships Across Canada—Canadian Pacific Railway Across the Pacific—White Empress Steamships, largest and fastest liners on that ocean All three are linked together in close connections as to time, and are under the same management. The Canadian Pacific Route is one of variety. Not only is it the fastest—it affords a welcome break from too much sea-travel. That break is Canada—the vigorous, fascinating Dominion which stretches from one ocean to another. It is a country of amazing vitality, of great promise for the future : it is also a land of remarkable beauty, becoming every year, more and more, one of the most popular tourist resorts of the world. ATLANTIC SERVICE Canadian Pacific trans-Atlantic services are maintained by three classes of steamship, running from Southampton, Cherbourg, Liverpool, Greenock and Belfast. EMPRESS Steamships Empress of Britain 42>35° tons (The World's Wonder Ship—5 days to Canada) Empress of Australia 21,850 tons DUCHESS Steamships Duchess of Atholl Duchess of Bedford Duchess of Richmond Duchess of York MONT Steamships Montclare 16,400 tons each 20,000 tons each Montrose INDEX Map of Route .. Centre Pages Atlantic Steamship Services Pages 2-3 Across Canada Journey Pages 4 to 11 Pacific Steamship Services Pages 12 to 15 and 36 Hawaii Pages 16-17 Japan Pages 20 to 25 Korea and Manchukuo Pages 26-27 China . . Pages 28 to 33 Manila Pages 34-35 Round the World Tours Page 19 ^1 ^^IgX JV Page Two aaa a ■■ m ■■# ■ . K M ' «. ~ lr ACROSS THE ATLANTIC Some glimpses of Canadian Pacific steamships. On the left-hand page—The Empress of Britain, 42,350-ton Wonder Ship, showing the Dining Room, the Mayfair Lounge, and the Smoking Room. The top two on the right-hand page are on the Empress of Australia, and below is the Smoking Room of a Duchess Ship Page Three ACROSS CANADA One of the finest attractions of the Canadian Pacific Route is the St. Lawrence Seaway—the Short Sea Route to America, with a saving of about 500 miles in the ocean journey. And it is also the route of beauty and history, with nearly two days spent on the sheltered waters of the majestic river. The noble and historic St. Lawrence, remarkable amongst rivers in that it is navigated by oceangoing ships a thousand miles from its mouth, meets us at Newfoundland : and it will bear us along its sheltered waters until its great gulf narrows to river banks, with little towns clustering at the water's edge, and behind them forests and farms. Presently we reach the long Isle of Orleans, and, skirting its wooded shores, turn a bend and see before us the great cape on which stands the ancient city of Quebec, our Gateway to Canada. Historic Quebec Quebec, crowned by a citadel that once was impregnable, was the birthplace of North America, and its chequered history is as fascinating as the grandeur of its site. Discovered in 1535 by Jacques Cartier, settled in 1608 by Champlain, it became the stronghold of " New France," the headquarters of soldiers, statesmen and explorers who colonized and civilized this land. In 1759 it became British after the celebrated Battle of the Plains of Abraham, when Wolfe defeated Montcalm. But French in character it still remains ; for it is the seat of tradition and culture of the great French- Canadian race which forms so large a part in the partnership of modern Canada. Much of the fine and massive old architecture still remains, while in the older sections—in steep cobbled streets, in quiet alleys bringing one suddenly to some dim historic spot, in convents, churches and leafy squares—there is a remarkable semi-medieval atmosphere. Many charming excursions within easy reach include those along the river to Montmorency Falls, the miracle-working shrine of Ste. Anne de Beaupre, and to the beautiful and unsophisticated Isle of Orleans. Metropolitan Montreal Montreal, by reason of its commanding position on the St. Lawrence River, its tremendous trans-Atlantic shipping, and its importance as a railway and banking centre, is one of the major cities of the world. Its site founded in 1642 by Maisonneuve, Montreal is a city of Big Business. It has a cosmopolitan atmosphere created partly by its international contacts, partly by its large French-Canadian population. Dominating it from every angle is Mount Royal, wooded to its summit with birch trees, and now a beautiful public park. A climb to the top is amply repaid by the magnificent view. From here the city is revealed in its entirety. Below are the splendid buildings of the Royal Victoria Hospital and McGill University, and thousands of homes embowered in trees. Beyond lie the massive structures of the harbour, financial and industrial districts, the great dome of St. James' Cathedral, the twin spires of the magnificent Church of Notre Dame, and the broad waters of the St. Lawrence. Amongst the many excursions that can be recommended, even to the speediest traveller, is a very charming motor drive along the shores of the St. Lawrence River, past the Lachine Rapids, to the end of the island, returning by the Back River. Around Montreal are many golf clubs, bathing beaches, and race-tracks. Ottawa—Dominion Capital From Montreal it is only a short run to Ottawa, capital of the Dominion, residence of the Governor- General, meeting-place of Parliament, and administrative headquarters of the Canadian Government. The site of Ottawa is characterized by a grandeur appropriate to its national importance ; the Parliament Buildings have a magnificent setting on a cliff overlooking the Ottawa River, and the whole city is beautifully laid out with spacious driveways, squares and parks. Toronto—The Queen City Its own citizens have an affectionate name for Toronto in " The Queen City" : and queenly indeed it is, this second city of Canada, superbly situated on a curve of Lake Ontario. Here are to be found some of Canada's largest enterprises—immense manufacturing establishments, great commercial houses and banks, the largest hotel (the Royal York) and the tallest building (Canadian Bank of Commerce) of the British Empire. Through its crowded streets, with their skyscrapers and department stores, throbs a vast hum of activity. But Toronto has another crowning glory—the beauty and charm of its residential suburbs. Very proud is Toronto, too, of its University and other educational institutions—of its art galleries, museums, libraries, choirs, orchestras, publishing houses, artists and churches. Along the lake-front are the grounds of the Canadian National Page Four Quebec, the Gateway City of the St. Lawrence, affords many such contrasts between old and new as illustrated above. (Below)—Montreal, viewed from the top of Mount Royal, with the St. Lawrence in the distance; and (At right) is , Ottawa, with its Parliament Buildings ... N\y J The Canadian Pacific owns and controls over 21,200 miles of railway line, serving all the important industrial and agricultural regions of Canada and reaching wonderful holiday and sporting sections, and with direct connections, too, into the United States. Trans-continental trains are equipped not only with various types of sleeping cars, but also dining and lounge-observation cars. Exhibition, better known as the "Toronto Fair" : they contain 350 acres, with permanent buildings, and during the annual two weeks' Exhibition attract over twTo million visitors. Niagara Falls Niagara Falls still make a remarkable appeal to the universal imagination as one of the most wonderful works of Nature. There may be many waterfalls of greater height : but the immense volume of water here, and the sheer descent of the unbroken plunge, give to Niagara a sublimity which height alone cannot impart. The tumultuous rapids above the Falls, and the deep gorge below, add to the grandeur of the scene. There are, as probably everyone knows, two falls—the Horseshoe (or Canadian) Falls, curving considerably in the middle, and, a little downstream, the American Falls. A small island separates them : and regularly a small steamer, the " Maid of the Mist," brings passengers to almost the very foot of the great cataract. On the Canadian side a beautiful park has been laid out to preserve the amenities of the cliff top, affording magnificent views of the Falls. Leaving either Montreal or Toronto for the westward journey, the route is through Sudbury and thence into the wild and almost uninhabited country that adjoins Lake Huron and Lake Superior. Well might you imagine yourself here playing an actual part in a cinema drama, for as the train rushes onward there is nothing but forest, deep and impenetrable, with here and there a great river or some lonely ice-cold lake, with now and then a little log-cabin settlement. French River One point in this journey between Toronto and Fort William is especially intriguing to a European visitor— French River. Here, deep in the heart of the North Woods, with almost primeval surroundings, is a comfortable Chalet-Bungalow Camp established by the Canadian Pacific. Primarily for the sportsman, and affording some splendid fishing on waters remote from civilization, it is also an exceedingly attractive resort, with a background of forest and stream that Europe cannot offer. Another Chalet-Bungalow Camp, of a similar character, is at Kenora, on Lake of the Woods (see below). Presently the line nears Lake Superior and emerges on its rock- bound shore, following its indentations for hours. Finally it reaches the twin cities of Fort William and Port Arthur, which together form the mouth of the spout through which flows most of the great wheat crop of Western Canada. The Great Lakes An agreeable and popular variation of the westward journey is offered in summer by the Canadian Pacific Great Lakes steamship service—a two days' sail in large, modern, and comfortable vessels. Connection is made from Toronto at Port McNicoll, on Georgian Bay. The route then leads across Lake Huron to Sault Ste. Marie, there entering Lake Superior, and so on to Fort William, where the railway journey is resumed. For the next four hundred miles after leaving Lake Superior you still travel through the same characteristic country—a vast hinterland rich in timber and mineral deposits, slowly yielding to settlement. A break is made at Kenora, on Lake of the Woods, and then the forest begins to thin out, and you enter the great prairie country. Winnipeg Winnipeg, at the confluence of the Red and Assiniboine Rivers, is the capital of Manitoba—a striking and progressive city that in every way reflects the remarkable growth of Western Canada. In 1870, this was merely a Hudson's Bay post, Fort Garry. Now it is the chief city and principal trading centre of the prairies, with large and growing industries. As a grain centre, it is one of the greatest primary wheat markets of the world. It has some impressive streets, some imposing skyscraper buildings, and a charming residential district, with beautiful boulevards and parks and many golf links. We are now well into the prairies : and for a day, speeding westward, we shall still be crossing them. On either side of the line are seen the great wheatfields, rolling away to the skyline, that comprise "Western Canada." This vast region, consisting of the provinces of Manitoba, Saskatchewan and Alberta, produces the best milling wheat of the world : and the grain elevators which cluster at the little railway stations are the most conspicuous objects in this large-scale landscape. Practically all the way west our train is climbing gradually up the long ascent to the Rockies : between Page Six THE CANADIAN ROCKIES A very famous mountaineer once said that the Canadian Rockies are equivalent to fifty or sixty Switzerlands rolled into one. To traverse them by train takes 22 hours—only most visitors are not content with such hasty glimpses, and prefer to stay off at Banff, Lake Louise, Emerald Lake and other well-known places. Winnipeg and Calgary it climbs over 2,600 feet. We pass scores of prairie cities, towns, and villages, such as Regina, the capital of Saskatchewan, Moose Jaw, and Medicine Hat. Calgary Calgary, the largest city on this line between Winnipeg and Vancouver, is a bright and progressive one, lying in a crook of the Bow River. Sometimes called " the metropolis of the foothills,'* it is a flourishing industrial and agricultural centre. Once a very important ranching town, Calgary still has great stock- raising interests : and it maintains its associations with the Old West by holding every year its now world- famous " Stampede "-—a week's carnival of cowboy sports and frontier contests. And now for that most wonderful region—-the Rockies. The full glory of the far-flung line of mountain peaks, hung among the clouds and quivering in the warm summer air, is well seen as we leave Calgary, following the ancient glacier-grooved Bow River. First come the grassy foothills, rising tier upon tier, with ranches and farms—then the dark evergreen forests, ancfcthe great grey bulk of the first ranges. And so, by narrow passes eroded by turbulent rivers, we reach Banff. Banff, in the Rockies Banff, one of the world's most famous mountain resorts, is situated in a pocket of a wide circle of pearly- grey limestone peaks, embowered in forests and lawns, with the glacial green Bow River flowing through it. It is the capital of Rocky Mountains National Park—an area containing 2,750 square miles, and larger than Devonshire. Our best headquarters are at the Banff Springs Hotel, standing like a baronial castle on an eminence that overlooks the junction of the Bow and Spray Rivers. Within its splendid lounges there is much enjoyment to be obtained at any time of the day. It has its own swimming pools, just below the terrace : and also one of the Empire's finest, highest, and most scenic golf courses. Apart from its scenery, Banff has a fame based upon its hot sulphur- springs. Mountain climbing, from the easiest ascents to the more exacting, can be obtained conveniently, and there are countless other opportunities for recreation afoot, on horseback, or by motor—for good roads and trails a-plenty have been constructed by the government. There are also to be obtained tennis, canoeing, fishing, and launch trips. Near the village is the Buffalo Park, with a herd of these and other native animals. Indians you will sometimes see, too, for there is a Reservation just outside the Park limits : and " Indian Week" at Banff, once a year, is a very colourful spectacle. Beautiful Lake Louise Forty-two miles west of Banff is Lake Louise—the " Pearl of the Rockies." Probably the most perfect gem of scenery in the world, Lake Louise bears the liquid music, the soft colour-notes of its name, almost into the realm of the visible. It is a lake of the deepest and most exquisite colouring, ever changing, defying analysis, sweeping through an iridescent colour scheme as the sky changes, and mirroring the sombre forests and cliffs that rise on either side, the gleaming white glacier beyond, and the tremendous snow-crowned peaks that fill the background of the picture. On the shore, amidst beds of poppies, columbines and anemones, is the Chateau Lake Louise. No more beautiful spot and no more comfortable hotel could be chosen. On the lake itself, boating can be obtained : and a swimming bath has been built adjoining the Chateau, with warmed glacial water. There is a delightful pony-ride (or you can easily walk it) to Lakes in the Clouds, two gems higher up on the mountain side : and other rides and easy climbs in many other directions. For the really hard-bitten, there is real mountain climbing galore, with Swiss guides. By motor road you can visit Moraine Lake, lying lovely and lonely in the Valley of the Ten Peaks, a semi-circle of scarred, snow-capped giants each over 10,000 feet in height. Here there is a charming little Chalet- Bungalow Camp. Emerald Lake Six miles west of Lake Louise is the Great Divide—highest elevation of the railway, interprovincial boundary, and backbone of the continent, where waters divide either west to the Pacific or east to the Atlantic. From here into Field the railway descends rapidly, dropping nearly a Page Eight Page Nine When travelling in Canada, always stay at a Canadian Pacific hotel. Fifteen in number, these hotels include seven in large cities—Quebec, Toronto, Winnipeg, Regina, Calgary, Vancouver and Victoria. The others are at holiday centres in the Rockies, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. Chalet-Bungalow Camps at various points supplement this accommodation. quarter of a mile in a distance of 14 miles down narrow Kicking Horse Pass, and here you see the wonderful " Spiral Tunnels " that were constructed through two mountains. The little town of Field is the stopping-point for Emerald Lake. This beautiful little lake, reached by a seven-mile run through a forest of balsam and spruce, is to thousands of its admirers more charming, even, than Lake Louise. With a surface placid and unruffled, mirroring the soaring peaks that almost surround it, it has a most exquisite colouring, ranging from emerald to jade, with that peculiar milkiness that characterizes glacial water. Not the least of its charm is the cosy alpine Chalet Hotel which stands on the shore—with bungalows flanking it, for all the world like a little Swiss village. There are some very fine excursions from Emerald Lake — riding and hiking along alluring trails that take one higher into the mountains, or over the pass into the Yoho Valley. Motoring in the Rockies There is a wide variety of fine motor trips in the Rockies, and special arrangements are in force for through travellers whereby, at a reasonable cost, they can make several attractive " motor detours " and rejoin the train later. Some of these tours are on the " all in " basis, and include hotel expenses, meals and motor transportation. One such route is from Banff to Lake Louise and Emerald Lake, and thence to Golden. On the way it enters the celebrated Yoho Valley, a deep gorge that runs into the Kicking Horse Pass. Here, facing the great Takakkaw Falls, is Yoho Valley Chalet-Bungalow Camp. Another such settlement is at Lake Wapta, in the Kicking Horse Pass itself; still another, but not accessible by motor —and therefore of unusual attraction, for the road to it is through an almost primeval forest and must be hiked or ridden by horseback—is at Lake O'Hara. One other motor route must be especially mentioned—the magnificent Banff-Windermere Road. Between Banff and Lake Louise, it leaves the main road, and turns south to enter Kootenay National Park. Through deep virgin forest, full of wild life, it brings you to near Lake Windermere, and then, near Radium Hot Springs (with another Chalet-Bungalow Camp) you take a northern road that brings you to Golden. Through the Canyons From Field the line descends into the valley of the Columbia River, and then climbs up again into the great and spectacular Selkkir Range. This magnificent mountain area contains numerous glaciers and giant peaks, many visible from the track. Following the Illecillewaet River, along the brink of deep chasms, one next reaches Revelstoke, Sicamous, and Kamloops. To the south are some famous fruit-raising districts, such as the Kootenay and Okanagan valleys. Many travellers stay overnight at Sicamous so as to see both Rockies and canyons by daylight. From Kamloops the line, continually descending, follows the gigantic canyons of the Thompson and Fraser Rivers—second only in scenic grandeur to the Rockies themselves. Presently the Fraser River widens out, and we reach a meadowlike country through which we roll to Vancouver. Vancouver End of steel is Vancouver, chief city of British Columbia—and also a great port, over whose wharves passes the commerce of the Far East, the South Seas, and the far North. In and around Vancouver are immense lumber mills; these, with mining, farming, shipbuilding and shipping, account for its rapid development and importance. Its excellent harbour is nearly land-locked and fully sheltered, facing a range of mountains that are tipped with snow the year round. A bright, fascinating city is this. It has beaches, boulevards, golf courses, a mild climate, much floral luxuriance, and a cosmopolitan atmosphere that its overseas trade and diverse national types enhance. In Stanley Park, jutting out on a peninsula, it has a unique forest containing primeval trees (Douglas firs and cedars) of a most amazing size and age. English Bay, nearby, presents on any sunny afternoon a scene of great animation; whilst Capilano Canyon, in North Vancouver, Shaugh- nessy Heights, the Marine Drive, Chinatown, Grouse Mountain, New Westminster, and steamer trips around the fiords are amongst the attractions that will interest the visitor. Victoria The White Empresses of the Pacific commence their journey at Vancouver, Page Ten (Above) Vancouver, Canada's principal western port, where the trans-Pacific steamship journey begins. (Below) Victoria, a few hours away on Vancouver Island, and capital of British Columbia. (Side pictures) The Pacific Highway, near Vancouver—and Beacon Hill Park, Victoria—one of the charming spots which give Victoria its British atmosphere Photographs by British Columbia Government &r?Yi H( Wa^-^vJ Page Eleven EMPRESSES OF THE PACIFIC Every two weeks a white empress speeds away from Vancouver and Victoria for the Orient—the largest and fastest liners on the Pacific Ocean. Their flashing white exteriors, fine appointments and detailed perfection of service explain why they are such favourites. There is the choice of two routes—via Honolulu or direct to Yokohama. but after a short run call at Victoria, at the southerly end of Vancouver Island. The two cities are connected also by local steamer services. Often called " a little bit of England on the Pacific," Victoria is far-famed for its lovely homes — beautiful houses, ranging from bungalows up to castellated mansions set back in estates, with velvet lawns, trim hedges and lovely gardens that combine the roses of England with the bougain- villea of California. Its wonderful ever-green climate has made Victoria a favoured all-year resort, with many retired Service men and officials from every quarter of the Empire. At Victoria is the provincial Parliament and many other notable buildings. A sightseeing ride will take us to most of the places of interest, such as Beacon Hill Park, the Malahat Mountain Drive, which rises 1,250 feet above the sea, and the famous Butchart sunken gardens. Across the Pacific The largest and fastest steamships on the Pacific Ocean are the famous White Empresses, in service between Vancouver-Victoria and the leading ports of the Orient. No other steamship service offers such swift, effortless travel across the Pacific. The Empress of Japan and the Empress of Canada sail the Paradise Route, calling at Honolulu, Yokohama, Kobe, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Manila. The Empress of Asia and Empress of Russia take the Direct-Express Route, calling at Yokohama, Kobe, Nagasaki, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Manila. Magnificent Steamships The White Empresses of the Pacific are of the most modern type of steamship. In their construction due consideration has been given to climatic conditions in the Orient; hence, all rooms, public and private, are large, airy and well-ventilated, and extensive promenade space has been provided on the broad decks. The staterooms are beautifully furnished and have one or two beds. Communicating doors make it possible to use many of the staterooms en suite—an ideal arrangement for family parties. Most staterooms have beds instead of berths, and in all staterooms hot and cold running water is provided. In the centre pages will be found the travel times to Oriental ports. Luxurious Suites Luxuriously-furnished private suites are a feature of all the White Empresses. In addition to special bedrooms and more than sixty other bedrooms which have private baths or showers, the Empress of Japan has two de luxe suites composed of bedroom, bath, sitting-room and verandah. The Empress of Canada has six private suites, composed of bedroom, sitting - room and bathroom, in addition to twelve special rooms with private baths, and other rooms equipped with showers. The Empress of Russia and Empress of Asia have each eight private suites of three rooms. The public rooms on the White Empresses—lounge, drawing-room, long gallery, reception room, card room, writing room, smoking-room and dining - room — are charmingly furnished and supply a tasteful background for this most delightful of ocean journeys. Each ship has also a verandah cafe and children's play room. The Empress of Japan and Empress of Canada have beautiful swimming pools. Empress of Japan The Empress of Japan is the largest and fastest liner operating between North America and the Orient. She has a gross registered tonnage of 26,000, a displacement tonnage of 39,000, and is the Blue Riband ship of the Pacific. Empress of Canada The Empress of Canada is a worthy running mate. A giantess of 21,500 tons gross register, and of 32,000 tons displacement, the "Canada" (like the "Japan") is an oil-burning liner with turbine-driven propellers. Sister Empresses The Empress of Asia has a gross registered tonnage of 16,900, a displacement of 25,350. The Empress of Russia has a gross registered tonnage of 16,800, a displacement tonnage of 2 5,200. These sister-ships are the largest and fastest liners on the Direct-Express route. Both European and Oriental stewards are employed on the White Empresses. Amongst the many conveniences carried are hair dressing parlours, manicurist, laundry, dispensary, hospital, public stenographer, photographic dark-room and moving pictures. Each ship has also an excellent Filipino orchestra. Pcge Twelve EMPRESS OF CANADA The Empress of Canada is of 21,500 gross tons register. These pictures illustrate respectively the Smoking Room (above), the beautiful Lounge, and a typical First Class Room. The White Empresses of the Pacific were built specially with the climatic conditions of the Orient in view Page Fifteen Five days after leaving Vancouver or Victoria, you step ashore at Honolulu, capital and pleasure centre of the Hawaiian Islands. Here, two thousand miles from the mainland, is an unsurpassed climate, a never-ending summer of warm sunshine and cool trade winds, with nights as delightful as the beautiful days. The very name of Honolulu is redolent of exotic charm—Hawaiian islands with their luxuriant woodlands and golden surf-rimmed sands cooled by the breezes of the broad Pacific. From prehistoric times these palm- fringed lands in miniature have nursed their own native life, thrilled with haunting native choruses and music, and rejoiced in native customs that have held sway for untold centuries. The only difference modernity has wrought is to add a note of welcome to the visitor, of luxury in the hotels, and gaiety in local interests and pastimes, so that many a traveller is beguiled into settling here for life. One of them was Robert Louis Stevenson, the romancer and poet, whose name throughout the Pacific is still a household word. A Fragrant Welcome As we pass by Diamond Head, we get our first enraptured peep of the breakers strewing their dazzling foam on coral reefs ; house-roofs gleaming among the mazes of brilliant foliage, and ramparts of mountain beyond, mantled with verdure of indescribable blue and green. As you near the shore your ears are greeted with the challenge of the diving-boys eager to retrieve any coins you may fling into the sea. Then come the welcoming cries of " Aloha Oe," from the smiling crowds upon the pier ; and with a " lei" or garland about your neck, you are borne off to your hotel through visions of rice-fields and banana groves, or gardens ablaze with bougainvillea, the flaming hibiscus, and the languorous oleander. Nor are you long in realizing that in this playground of nature the people match their surroundings, for the Hawaiians are among the handsomest creatures living. Waikiki Beach And what a programme of delights awaits you. First of all, you repair to Waikiki to bask on its far-famed sands, or take a dip in the surf, or use it to ride beachwards on a triumphant surfboard or outrigger canoe. By the splendours of a tropic moon you may dance to the orchestra of a sumptuous hotel, or listen to a chorus of native minstrels, while the winsome Hawaiian maids clad in Nature's own attire of flowers and leaves dance to the strum of their ukuleles and guitars. As for Kapio- lani Park, it never fails to bewitch the visitor by the manner in which the profusion of tropical nature has been domesticated, as it were, into a perfect pleasure resort. Those who resist the spell of golf on the local links will find endless entertainment in Waikiki and its surroundings—in the Bishop Museum, for instance, with its array of objects depicting every phase of Polynesian history and life—in the well-filled Aquarium,r the Iolani Palace, the coral-built church of Kawaiahao, or the pineapple canneries. For the walker there are jaunts of interest to the Makiki and Alewa Heights, the extinct crater of the Punch-bowl, and the Tantalus Mountains. In the eighty-five-mile drive lound the island of Oahu, on which Honolulu stands, you may see Haleiwa, Pearl Harbour, Schofield Barracks, Moanalua Gardens, and the indescribable Pali, where the view is simply breath-taking—a green velvet mantle of verdure draping the precipitous slopes that plunge twelve hundred feet down to the sea. Maui and Hawaii Islands Only sixty-five miles to the south is Maui, where the famous Hawaii National Park contains Haleakala, largest of all the world's extinct volcanoes. From its cloud-capt rim, ten thousand feet above sea-level, you get a marvellous view of the crater, grim but impotent, measuring nine- acres of yawning depth. And you forget the devastation wrought here by eruptions in the past when you behold the glowing cloudscapes above Haleakala in the subdued light of sunset or dawn. The island of Hawaii has Kilauea, largest of earth's volcanoes in continuous activity. The fiery pit of Halemaumau, at the crater's centre, is 1,200 feet in diameter—a seething inferno of molten lava, belching forth liquid fire amid scenes of tropical loveliness and bounty. Yachting is a favourite pursuit in these island-studded waters, and there are half a dozen clubs, with many well-known oversea members. Pearl Harbour and Honolulu harbours are the havens chiefly in use, and these furnish this happy archipelago with a white-sailed fleet all the year round. Though the native seamen still use primitive craft and methods, they admit the improvements that wealth and civilization have brought since the days when Kamehameha the Great, their greatest chieftain, ruled hereabouts in the period of Waterloo. Page Sixteen fa im At U -.. _ x. The ukelele comes from Hawaii, but actually it was introduced there by the Portuguese. (Above) Far-famed Waikiki Beach, home of surf-riders and moonlight melodies, with a glimpse, also, of a native expert ^iilAillli! iAA^:<:';^«A':-A-lS^>-jAA !*!!SB»BSN«e58K!S!8»» Page Seventeen Across Canada From the above map it will be seen that on the overland route to Vancouver a choice of alternative routes is available :— From Vancouver by White Empresses The Canadian Pacific operates three through trains a day across the continent, and vice versa. From Montreal, via Ottawa, Fort William and Winnipeg. From Montreal, via Toronto, Sudbury and thence to main line. From Montreal or Toronto to Sault Ste. Marie and St. Paul— thence to main line at either Moose Jaw or Winnipeg. From Montreal to Toronto, Chicago and St. Paul—thence to main line at either Moose Jaw or Winnipeg. Passengers also have the option of travel (in Summer only) by Canadian Pacific Great Lakes steamship between Port McNicoll and Fort William. (Small extra charge to cover meals and berths on ship.) West of Winnipeg there are also several alternative routes. Particulars of all these will be gladly furnished. Main Line Muskoka Route Soo Line Soo Line Trains i and 2 The Dominion Soo-Dominion Montreal to Vancouver Montreal and Toronto to Vancouver Chicago to Vancouver, via Moose Jaw. (In Summer, this is replaced by The Mountaineer.) All these trains carry a comfortable Lounge-Observation Car for the use of First-Class passengers—besides dining or cafe cars, various types of Standard and Tourist Sleepers, and day coaches. In Summer, an open observation car is attached to the end of the train while going through the Rockies. Interchange of Tickets at Honolulu First-class and Tourist-class through tickets are interchangeable with Canadian-Australasian Line between North America and Honolulu. Interchange in the Orient First-class Canadian Pacific tickets are interchangeable at all ports of call in the Orient with several other steamship companies. Layover checks will be issued by pursers covering the ports of call of Mileage Via Honolulu Direct 243 5 Honolulu . 5 days *3394 Yokohama . 13 » 10 days 350 Kobe 14 „ 12 „ 388 Nagasaki — 14 „ 460 Shanghai 16 „ 15 '« 820 Hong Kong 19 » 18 „ 630 Manila 21 ,, 20 „ 8477 * Vancouver to Yokohama direct is 1546 miles less than via Honolulu—viz., 4283 miles. _ Page Eighteen Overland Route Yokohama to Pei-ping, via Seoul and Mukden— 2,109 miles- Interchange in the Orient (contd.) the steamship for which the ticket is sold, and will be honoured when stamped by Agent. Tourist-class Canadian Pacific tickets are interchangeable at all ports of call in the Orient with certain lines. Passengers may, of course, stop over at any port and proceed by a later Canadian Pacific Steamship. Empresses of the Pacific Third Class Gross Registered Displacement First Tourist Enclosed Tonnage Tonnage Class Cabin and Open Empress of Japan . 26,000 39,000 298 164 658 Empress of Canada 21,500 32,250 453 94 934 Empress of Asia . 16,900 25,350 292 74 740 Empress of Russia . 16,800 25,200 292 74 740 Round The World Tours The above map will illustrate why the Canadian Pacific is the ideal basis of a Tour round the World. And there is another reason. We have offices and agencies in all parts of the world, and their high standing enables them to render very valuable and practical assistance to travellers. The Canadian Pacific has entered into arrangements with connecting transportation companies for the issuance of through tickets, and will be only too pleased to offer suggestions on itineraries. A very wide variety of routes is available, numbering over 60 ; tickets have a two-year limit, and are good for stop-overs anywhere. Page Nineteen Yokohama, the Gateway to the Orient, is reached in 13 days from Vancouver by the Paradise Route, via Honolulu (empress of japan and empress of Canada) or in io days via the Direct- Express Route (empress of asia and empress of Russia). The city is a monument to Japanese progress—teeming with activity, with broad boulevards and magnificent buildings. Within an hour's journey is Tokyo. Japan! Land of the Rising Sun — Chrysanthemum Land — what a fascination there is in its very name ! A country situated at the crossroads of world traffic, at the crossroads of two civilizations—a country, on the one hand, of picturesque quaintness, of kimonos, tea - houses, cherry blossoms, wistarias, and joyous festivals ; on the other hand, of a remodelled national life that embraces a great industrial development, an enlightened government and a remarkable educational movement. Japan is a perpetual play ! Temples and torii—lanterns and torches and shops—babies and kites and street signs—the plaintive note of the samisen. The country is so small that you could go all over it in a fairly short stay, yet so fascinating and different that you could spend a long time in one place and never be bored. From the plum blossoms of February to the chrysanthemums of October, Japan is a land of flowers ; and the late autumn, too, has its coloured leaves, and the winter its starry snow- flakes, worshipped by poets in strange little verses. First Glimpses of Japan The sea is hazy azure ; there are more kinds of islands than were ever set in any sea before, and strange craft manned by little brown fishermen, the sampans like toy boats swinging between the islands. And, rising above the scene, that loveliest of mountains — Fujiyama -— stands revealed in all her beauty. You slip your shutter an inch to the right one morning, and sure enough you're there—in Yokohama. The first thing to meet your eyes, very likely, is a little man, with a straw hat like an old-fashioned chopping bowl and a short, square-cut blue cotton coat—a little gnome of a man with sandals on. And behind him stands a pretty lady, with a marvellous coiffure and a dark silk coat-thing over her flowery kimono, which shows at the edges. And there is an old lady with a million wrinkles disputing the groundwork of her smiles. She is holding what must be a baby—though it looks like a glorified oversize doll—in a red, blue, green and yellow dress. The Buddha at Kamakura Ashore, there are plenty of ricksha men wTith no other smiling purpose than to implore you to mount their high, rubber-tyred, white-cushioned pull-carts. They will take you to the new Bent en Dori, where the curio and silk stores have been rebuilt in all their former glamour; and each little shop is so perfect, each little proprietor so persuasive, each little bit of gold lacquer so just what you dreamed about, that you want to carry the whole ensemble away. In about an hour one can motor to Kamakura, to see the big bronze Buddha who has sat there for six hundred years. It is hard to say which is the more interesting— Buddha himself or the little toy country one drives through on the way to his serene remoteness. You will want to stop every five minutes to play with the farmhouses and their little bamboo fences, their little thatched roofs, their terraced handkerchief-sized rice fields, their dozens and hundreds and millions of butterfly children, and their old-old people who look as though they are carved out of brown wood. Tokyo, The Capital Tokyo—only a fifty-minute train ride away from Yokohama — is crammed with colourful life. Almost every day there is a festival of some sort in Tokyo, and, of course, it has something to do with flowers. Plum blossoms in February, peach blossoms in March, cherry blossoms in April, wistaria in May, iris in June, peonies in July, lotuses in August, chrysanthemums in September and October. Where else can one see a department store where shoes come off at the door (to be quite Japanese) and yet where one can ride in an escalator ? There is Uyeno Park, and the Ginza where all the world shops. There are theatres, where the stage rests on rollers and is turned right around (actors, props and all) when they want a new scene—and the audience squats on the floor and has its lunch sent in. There are wrestling matches, or baseball, if one is intent upon being modern. There is Asakusa Temple, museums of all kinds, and the Imperial Palace to be gazed at from afar. Nikko and Chuzenji And Nikko—you must see Nikko, four hours from Tokyo by railway, but quite a thousand years as the mind flies. Nikko has been a holy place since a.d. 766. Here kindly Nature has surpassed itself in the glorious profusion with which it has scattered feathery woods and sombre Page Twenty Page Twenty-one LAND OF THE RISING SUN There are Canadian Pacific Offices at Yokohama, Tokyo, Kobe, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Manila and other ports in the Orient. The high standing of the Company in the Far East enables its representatives to make satisfactory travel arrangements for its patrons, and to assist them in every possible way. forests, silvery cascades and white- robed waterfalls. There are fat old carved stone Buddhas wearing wigs and ear-laps of green moss, and there is the river, blue as melted sapphires, roaring under its Sacred Red Bridge. The great bell, held by its gilded dragon, can be struck by one old priest alone. Near the Abbot's garden is the " sunrise-till-dark " gate that a man may study a whole day long. Perhaps nowhere else in the world is there such a gorgeous, bewildering series of buildings and stairways, of carvings, images and gateways, all leading to a single tomb. When the holy of holies is reached, the pilgrim is given a green gown and a little sacred sake in a tiny red and gold lacquered cup. Eight miles distant from Nikko and more than 2,000 feet higher in the hills is beautiful Lake Chuzenji. The journey may be taken on sure-footed ponies, which climb up the abrupt hillside by a zigzag path. When the top of the pass is reached the road plunges into a virgin forest, and the fatigue of the journey is forgotten ! For before you is Kegan-no-take, Chuzenji's overflow—a lovely pillar of snowy water leaping over a precipice 300 feet in height. Fujiyama There are few pleasanter spots in any land, for those who love a ramble over hill and dale, than the Hakone district of Japan. Everybody goes to Miyanoshita—the chief village of that district, and Yokohama's hill resort. Those who come for days stay for weeks, and then leave this enchanting spot with many regrets. Favourite of all the delightful excursions from the hotel is that to Lake Hakone. Across this charming lake, and beyond the rugged mountains on the western side, the peerless Fujisan—or Fujiyama—raises her queenly head. As one gazes enraptured at the sacred Fuji, an intense longing comes to climb the mountain. You will want to creep up that glorious outline which sweeps in one curve from seashore to sky, and to look far over the world below from the topmost pinnacle of Japan. The best way is to go to Subashiri and stay overnight at the inn, where you will get a sight of real Japan, including black-eyed nesans and white-clad pilgrims. In the morning, ponies will be waiting, and the first stage of the long climb is begun. Hundreds of foot travellers are passed on the way, all intoning the mystic formula, " May our six senses be pure and the weather on the honourable mountain fair." It is better to sleep midway of your desire and go on next morning, until the unimaginable happens and the sun bursts out of the ocean and boils through the mist, and the clouds glow, and you forget the discomforts of the way. Japan lies below you like a huge map in relief. Kyoto, The Ancient Capital Kyoto, for more than a thousand years the capital of Japan, is a city wholly Japanese, lying in a green cup in the hills, with temples set like glittering objets d'art wherever the scene demands an accent. The river that flows through its centre is crossed and re-crossed with bridges ; and every bridge has its story and its song, as hundreds and hundreds of pairs of wooden get a clatter across it hour after hour. There are tea-houses on the river banks, delicate things of perfect satiny wood and paper windows, within which there is endless hurrying of dainty nesans across the clean matting, waiting on the lords of creation who wish to eat, or drink tea, or smoke. There is the sound of the s ami sen, too, because the geisha of Kyoto are the most skilful in the Empire. A Genius for Festivals Kyoto seems to have a genius for festivals : and who can describe the knights in armour, the floats and boats, the procession of lovely ladies, the Cherry Dance of the geisha, the dance of the Festival of the Dead, the Festival of Armour and Flags for boys, and the Festival of Dolls for girls ? Out, on the slightest of provocations, come thousands of lanterns ; and crowds will go to Uji, and wait in a boat all night, to watch the brilliant Battle of the Fireflies, the ghosts of warriors dead and gone eight hundred years. As a background for all this enchantment there are the shops. Kyoto makes the loveliest fans in all Japan, the quaintest dolls, the most marvellous silks and brocades, the most beautiful china and pottery. If you have learned to love temples, then you will never tire of Kyoto, where even the palace where the Emperors lived so long looks like a temple. Each one has art treasures, or history, or a garden to distinguish it from the rest. There is a little Page Twenty-two The Sacred Red Lacquer Bridge at Nikko. (At left) A porcelain decorator is painting some of the beautiful Satsuma ware—and (below) a Komo-Su priest performs mystic rites Page Twenty-three CHRYSANTHEMUM & CHERRY BLOSSOM Both European and Oriental stewards are employed on the white empresses of the pacific. " Boy," the familiar servant-call of the East, is a term that applies equally to veterans or youngsters. The art of service (as of age) is one of the secrets of the Orient. The " boys " of the white empresses are trained in schools maintained in China by the Canadian Pacific. waterfall under which one must stand to pray—though it is not a shrine favoured by foreigners, as all one's clothes must come off first, and the water is cold. And then there is the statue of Binjuri, whose face has been so rubbed by those who want to get well that the authorities have provided him with a new set of features. There are countless statues of Jizo— the children's god—to whom mothers bring baby bibs, which they even tie round his neck to make sure the accompanying requests don't slip his memory. There is the shrine of Inari, which centres all that strange cult of the fox that has so puzzled westerners. Nara and Kobe One can motor from Kyoto to Nara—one of Japan's early capitals, where the charm of this wonderful little country began first to differentiate itself from the older and quite different charm of China. Nara is not a large city, but it has more temples than any one traveller is ever likely to see. It has a museum, too, and streets of little tempting shops. Best of all, it has Nara Park—a great, quiet, cultivated woodland, where live hundreds of tame deer who poke their noses into the pockets of the appreciative visitor. The short train journey from Kyoto to Kobe, passing Osaka—the largest manufacturing city in Japan— is a most interesting one. Kobe is an excellent city to choose as headquarters for seeing all that ancient Japanese civilization that practically began at Nara, went on at Kyoto, and even now looks upon Tokyo as an upstart. In Kobe there are golf clubs, bathing beaches, foreign as well as native stores, the dansants, bridge parties, even a walking club—and all this mixed up with life as it might be lived on a paper fan. Miyajima, The Sacred Island Some will go by train from Kobe to Nagasaki, visiting on the way the sacred island of Miyajima. For ages Miyajima has been accounted one of the three most beautiful places in Japan. The waters are crystal clear, the breezes balmy, and the air all sweet and scented. Deer roam down from the hills to haunt the avenues of mossy granite lanterns by the shore and tame pigeons settle to one's hands and shoulders, begging to be fed. The temple, with its six hundred and forty-eight foot gallery, is unique, and has furnished many motifs to native artists. The best known of these is the torii—a colossal arch made of camphor wood—which forms one of the chief features in every view of the island. On the island of Kyushu, which comes as near being Ancient Japan as anything we'll ever see in a too- modern world, Beppu is perhaps the most interesting place. It is as characteristically Japanese as Nikko or Kyoto, but in quite a different way. For Beppu is where you go to have the disease boiled out of you, digging a private bath for yourself on the hot-sanded seashore, if you're poor; or, if you can afford to be charged modestly, patronizing one of the communal bathing-places. Last of all in Japan there's Nagasaki, with its huge harbour, where the vessels are coaled with a precision, light-heartedness and rapidity that astonish the beholder. Nagasaki has interesting shops that sell everything imaginable in tortoiseshell. The Wistfulness of Japan There is an unutterable wistfulness about Japan that the years and vicissitudes cannot change or banish. It pervades the treasure-laden shops, the flowering tea-gardens, the hillsides terraced with all the green evidences of assiduous cultivation, the quaint dramas of the " No " school, the tinkling music of the geishas, the social ceremonies of hospitality, the resplendent costumes of the fair sex, the miles of orcharding in blossom- time, and above all, the dimpled charm of children whose smiles overcome their shy reluctance like the slow unfolding of a rose. Everywhere you go, you note the almost idolatrous devotion that the nation pays to the Throne. From this deep foundation of loyalty there rises the Quixotic structure of Japanese chivalry, the self-effacing and romantic ardours of the Daimios and Samurai, and the exalted code of honour that underlies the magic word Bushido, where death becomes a bagatelle or even a boon at the dictates of honour. One cannot visit any typical centre without perceiving the subtle influence that religion has wielded in the past. It has filled these wondrous islands with a wealth of hallowed shrines and lovely old temples, where the calm is so profound as to resent the murmur of the world outside, or the boom of a gong that calls to prayer or recollection. Page Twenty-four (At left) The Torii is an arch characteristic of Japanese scenery. This one is at Nara, one of Japan's early capitals, where the art of the country first began to differ from China's. (Below) Theatre Street, Kyoto—another ancient capital of Japan, and still its principal artistic centre. And in the park at Kyoto are these Bronze Storks in the group of Japanese girls 71 .«. A Page Twenty-five KOREA and MANCHUKUO One way of getting from Japan to China is the Overland Route—first crossing the Shimonoseki Strait from Moji to Fusan. From the latter a railway runs through Korea to Mukden, and then to Tientsin and Pei-ping : while another line runs through Manchukuo. Perhaps the strongest reasons for visiting Korea lie embalmed in the names by which that country has been so long known—" The Hermit Kingdom" or " The Land of the Morning Calm." We just naturally wish to see those people who wouldn't see us until their gates were forced open. What was it the hermits had that they hid so jealously ? What are they like themselves, that they so resented the rest of humanity ? But besides curiosity, another reason is climate ; for summer weather is one of the things that Korea and its neighbour, Manchukuo, really do best of all. Seoul, The Capital Fusan—the south-east gateway to Korea—is interesting as a background for the picturesque life of transplanted Japan. But the train is waiting to take you to Seoul, the capital and the city best known to the outside world. Like everything else in Korea, it has two names, for the Japanese call it Keijo. One can stay at the Chosen Hotel (which would be a good hotel anywhere) on the site of the ancient Temple of Heaven. You play golf at Ryuzan, and yet all the time there is the old Korean background. Hats have always held a unique, not to say extraordinary, position in the Korean mind's eye. The everyday hat of black crinoline is strange enough in all conscience—the tight- fitting skull cap, a high cone placed over it, and a small round brim, the whole tied with ribbons under the chin. A more unusual hat is of white horsehair, or perhaps it is ■enamelled in colour. There are the old-time military hats which are blue, and hats with ears out at the sides to indicate that the subject's attention is directed to the voice of his Sovereign, and the Sovereign's own hat with ears tied up at the top—since he needn't listen to anybody. Strange to say, in such a land of millinery ecstasy, ladies have no hats at all. In the shops are quaint things in wrought silver, inlaid iron, or that brass which is such a Korean speciality. Every foreigner wants to carry away a brass-trimmed chest with butterfly hinges. In Seoul is the palace of former Emperors, Prince Li's household fine- art works, beautiful lotus ponds, and the famous big bell. For centuries this bell boomed out the hours for opening and closing the city gates— boomed out, too, that strange signal that told men it was eight o'clock, time to go home, and let the women walk abroad and enjoy themselves free and unmolested. The Diamond Mountain Half a day's journey from Seoul is Kongosan, the diamond mountain. Of the countless old monasteries and temples in Kongosan there are fifty left, and here, among the awesome gorges, live some five hundred monks and nuns who keep to the ancient ways, despite the wheels of progress (which they have never heard) and the Kongosan Hotel, with its chef and its motor-bus-—set down on the very doorstep of their " most illustrious world's mountain." The overland route proceeds up the Korean Peninsula, and enters the new state of Manchukuo, formerly Manchuria, at Antung on the Yalu River—where the lumber rafts come down, and all the wild silkworms in the world seem to have sent their cocoons. At Mukden three railroads join, and we are somewhat at a loss to know whether this is China, or Japan, or the home of the ancient Manchus who built the red-walled, yellow-tiled palaces. Mukden To the business man, Mukden means perhaps the soya bean, that does everything from making a foundation for Worcester Sauce to playing fertilizer for worn-out fields and fattener for cattle. But to the woman, Mukden may mean a chance to get some of the eight million pelts that come down from the mountains, destined for the world's great fur markets. From Mukden we go south-west through Shanhaikwan (the nearest point of the railway to the Great Wall of China), through the international and up-to-date port of Tientsin, to Pei-ping, the capital of China. From Mukden one of the other railways leads north to Harbin, passing the new capital of this new country, Hsinking. Still another line runs south to that splendid go-ahead seaport long years ago called " Black Mud Hollow " by the Chinese, later " Dalny" by the Russians, now " Dairen " by the Japanese. From here it is only 3 8 miles to Port Arthur, that famous old bone of contention and battle-ground. What historical recollections are recalled as one drives in a drosky, overlooking the vast expanse of sea in front! Page Twenty-six (Above) A gentleman of Korea, wearing one of the hats which their owners change with their temperament. This is an everyday kind, tied on with ribbons. (Below) The Hall of Congratulations at Seoul, or Keijo, the capital of Korea. (Right) A silversmith's shop at Mukden, in the new state of Manchukuo A fr A"-> r, CHINA From Pei-ping there are two routes to Shanghai. One may go by rail to Hankow, from which place well-appointed steamers make the trip down the Yangtze River to Shanghai, past Nanking, in less than four days. The quicker route, however, is by all-rail from Pei-ping to Shanghai, via Pukow and Nanking. There are a thousand things to see, a thousand places to visit, in China— vast rivers dotted with junks, camel caravans, temples, huge images, forbidden cities, ancient walls that surround cities and even countries, monuments so old the human mind can hardly go back to their origin, dynastic tombs, flowery pagodas, memorial arches to ancestors, altars where worship to-day is the same as it was in the days of Confucius. And to-day one may travel among these historic memorials in the greatest comfort, for the door has swung wide enough to let in the railway train and the European hotel. The Panorama of China There is much to see ! A wedding procession goes by, the bride's chair, a glitter of red and gold, with the curtains down—and inside, a girl who is going to a man she does not know. Or a funeral cortege, every beggar within a mile carrying an embroidered banner, the son of the dead man dressed in sackcloth, and a long line of weeping, white-cottoned relatives. By the roadside, a fortune teller has just predicted to an ambitious young Chinese a job with a wealthy foreigner—who will pay him, probably, some fifteen dollars a month ! Thousands of sampans creep like water-beetles across every available inch of the rivers, carrying wood, straw, fruit, vegetables, rice or mulberry leaves for the voracious silkworms. (Incidentally, twenty million people in China live for no other purpose than silk.) There are lovely little gardens, with their tip- tilted-roofed pavilions, their pools, their lotuses, their shadows and soft . silences. The mystery of the whole East is here. Pei-ping Before visiting any of the many points of interest in Pei-ping, everybody first views this most wonderful of ancient cities from the top of the outer old grey wall, 50 feet high and 40 feet thick : a wall three-quarters of a century old when Columbus discovered America. A great city breaks against the foot of this wall—many-coloured, eternally talking, dusty, full of strange scents, made up of wide streets and little twisted byways. But straight ahead there is quite another kind of city, inside the first but enclosed in a wall of its own. And inside that again is another city, full of vast, long roofs that perk up at the corners— yellow roofs like sunshine. You never saw such a city as this inner one, with a pink wall around it, and long white marble bridges. You don't have to be told that the yellow roofs are palaces, or that the strange city in the trees is the old Forbidden City. There isn't another city like it this side of the moon, and the best of it is that foreigners may now visit it. The Legation Quarter Now turn your eyes to the right, and you will see roofs planned by many architects from many lands, each striving to say in plaster and stone that there's no place like home, whether that home is in England, Europe, or America. This is the Legation Quarter of Pei-ping. But before you go, turn around. You've seen three cities, one inside the other. But a fourth city crowds up against the wall from the south, a strange blend of shops, slums, palaces, temples and parks, out of which one lovely, perfect thing rises like a tall, tinted flower—the Temple of Heaven, triple-domed, as blue- tiled as heaven itself, and capped with gold. Come down off the wall and watch the crowd that boils through the great front door of Pei-ping, the Chien Men—the mouth of that fabled dragon whose eyes are two of the other nine gates, and whose body is the breathing city itself. Here.comes a camel, and behind it a Pei-ping cart, small, springless, and blue covered, drawn by a tall mule. Now here is a limousine of a former high mandarin, and a Manchu matron in bright pink with her hair done over a satin-covered board. Temptation to buy is on every side, and one finds one's room in the comfortable hotel filling with mandarin coats, lengths of brilliant silk, embroidered trifles, and wonderful bits of jade and lace. The Imperial City To-morrow you will visit the Imperial City, to feast your eyes on its wonders—the sea palace of the Empress Dowager, the miniature lakes, the rock gardens where all the flowers are twisted stone, the Bridge of Ten Thousand Years, and the theatre where the Empress watched the classic three-day plays. You must visit the museum with its six- million-pound collection of Chinese masterpieces, and the Winter and Page Twenty-eight (Below) The Chien Men Gate, the great front door of Pei-ping. (Above) The Great Wall of China, 2,000 miles long, built as a protection against the northern hordes — and Lama priests at a Buddhist Temple Page Twenty-nine Shanghai is reached from Yokohama in about 2§ days, via empress of japan and empress of Canada, which call at Kobe—or in about \\ days, via empress of Russia and empress of asia, which call at Kobe and Nagasaki. From Shanghai to Hong Kong is about another 2\ days. Summer Palaces. In the Summer Palace grounds is the hump-backed bridge, the loveliest long, flattened marble curve in all the world of bridges, and the dreaming lake in which lies the Empress Dowager's barge, with its marble base, and built with money which was to have been turned into a Chinese navy. The Great Wall Within easy reaching distance of the Imperial City are, among other temples, the Temple of Confucius, the Lama Temple, and the Temple of the Eighteen Hells, depicting in life- sized statues the awful punishments awaiting the sinner. There are two places we haven't mentioned yet, the most important of all. The first is the Great Wall. Not the wall of Pei-ping, but the two-thousand-mile defence that used to guard China from the northern hordes, and was one of the wonders of the ancient world. The other is (or are) the tombs of the Ming Emperors and the gigantic guardian animals of stone that line the road. Nanking Nanking never fails to interest, and one experiences a new sensation as one moves through the quaint stone- paved streets on a little grey donkey whose bells, on their bright-coloured strings, tinkle-tinkle as he trots. Not far away are the acres of old Examination Halls, where students were imprisoned in tiny cubicles during the week of. the test of literary skill. One should visit also the Ming Tombs, the Government Palace, the Observatory and Mint, and the Drum Tower, from the square top of which one views the hurry-skurry life in the streets below. Shanghai Here is a city with two souls, a city where you can live in all the comfort of the West, with the sound and colour and mystery of the East right around the corner. A city with telephones—and firecrackers at funerals. A city with electric light —and where one is pinched to cure a cold. A city with street cars—and silver collars around the children's necks to fool the evil spirits into thinking them dogs. Twenty-five thousand foreigners make a little life of their own : gay, alert, picturesque, cosmopolitan in the middle of a great age-old civilization, represented by two million Chinese. Shanghai differs from its rival, Hong Kong, as entirely as Paris from London. It is a thoroughpaced example, with a difference, of the way in which the West has invaded the East and set up a cosmogony of its own, with British, French, and American settlements blending in an international administration of marvellous adaptibility and strength. In fact, if a visitor came down from Mars, he might safely be conducted to Shanghai, and shown how civilized nations, like birds in their proverbial nests, agree. But fascinating as the life of the foreign settlements may be, there is the still more fascinating red and black lacquered temple, with its golden gods, and the theatres where the show begins just after dinner and runs until i a.m. Away deep in the native city is the original Willow Pattern Tea-house, reached by the famous crooked bridge. And here one joins a many-coloured crowd that is never rude, never ill- natured, just curious and friendly and frank in its comments which the foreigner cannot understand. Hong Kong It sheers up out of the water—a huge rock, green to the top with "semi-tropical foliage, except where it is stone-grey with streets and houses. The White Empress docks across the harbour at the mainland, but five minutes in a launch will carry the traveller to the beautiful island. Hong Kong stands at the cross roads of the East, and an enormous trade flows in and out of the marvellous harbour at its feet. To approach Hong Kong from the sea by night is to enjoy a veritable peep of fairyland, and an experience available nowhere else, save, perhaps, at Rio de Janeiro or Yokohama. Through the purpling haze there glimmer the myriad lights of the city suburbs rising to the skyline. Line upon line of dimming perspective confronts you with a pattern of starlike points where the roads lead up the slopes of the Peak to fifteen hundred feet. Far below, along the water-front, stretches the Bund, an imposing series of many-storied buildings generously proportioned and handsomely designed, ranging a couple of miles or more and justifying the city's ancient title. For Hong Kong means the City of Warehouses, and all this array of business enterprise has sprung up in a century or less, until to-day every building represents Page Thirty Page Thirty-one HONG KONG At Shanghai you re-board your White Empress for a delightful three days' sail to Hong Kong—an interesting interlude in Chinese Waters, with all the pleasure of renewing an old friendship. Hong Kong stands at the cross-roads of the East, and an enormous trade with all nations flows in and out of its marvellous harbour. some trading house that is known throughout two continents. Time and millions of outlay have wrought this transformation, as daring as anything in the Arabian Nights, so that nowadays this slip of China's coast wears the aspect of a marvellous outpost of Western commerce and finance, with the native merchant- princes " catching up." Yet all this wealth and energy cannot replace the quaint and primitive beauty, say, of many a simple wayside residence or private shrine such as proclaims the incomparable Celestial land in every line. Motoring at Hong Kong Motoring is something that everyone does, and touring cars may be had very cheaply. To-day it may mean taking a twenty-five mile trip around the island, passing beautiful bays and picturesque villages, and stopping for tea at the Repulse Bay Hotel. To-morrow one crosses in the Kowloon Ferry over to the mainland for a sixty-five-mile ride in what is known as the New Territory, which doesn't belong to Great Britain but is held on a ninety-nine year lease. The best golf in the East is to be found at Fanling in the New Territory, about eighteen miles inland. It is unique because there are two perfect courses of eighteen holes. There are other good courses at Deep Water Bay and Happy Valley. The Jockey Club is at Happy Valley, too, and the Racecourse, with hills on three sides of it. But, as may be imagined, those amusements which have to do with the water are popular, in Hong Kong. The water is so warm in summer that swimmers stay in for hours, and even in the winter the semi-tropical sea is pleasant. Or one may ascend the Peak by car or sedan chair, through beautiful winding roads or by funicular railway, in which case one marvels at the gorgeous mass of bloom along the route. When the top is reached the whole harbour lies spread out below, a great polished tinted map—many- armed, backed with blue hills, covered with islands and a collection of shipping from all over the world. You will like the shops in Hong Kong; and there are plenty of rickshas waiting to take you along Queen's Road, where you will find the most interesting bazaars. Macao A few hours by steam brings one to the Monte Carlo of China—Macao —that rocky peninsula which has been the possession of the Portuguese, and their stronghold in the East, since 1557. Most visitors go for the purpose of playing fan tan; and looking around the circle of unsmiling faces in a fan tan house, the foreigner marvels at the hold which the game takes upon apparently so unemotional a race. Canton Ninety miles from Hong Kong lies Canton. There are two hundred thousand boat dwellers in this strange city, who, if they have never lived on shore, have mainly been actuated because there was no room for them on shore. The total population is estimated at two million; and the whole city is ringed by cemeteries where the dead lie in millions upon millions more. Who outside the confines of China, for instance, has ever heard of the Chen Memorial Temple, at Canton, famed throughout the land as a funerary monument, for it houses the records of a single family for more than a thousand years ? It is unique of its kind, like the Temple of the Five Hundred Genii, which numbers among its divinities Marco Polo, the Venetian explorer, and Queen Victoria. We can visit the five - storied " Flowery" Pagoda, or the City of the Dead, with its flowers and its paths and its little brick pavilions— beautifully preserved but seldom used The Real Cathay East and West meet, smile and pass on the Bund at Canton. You must get into a ricksha and go for a ride, past streets and streets of house-boats, past rows and rows of western-styled buildings, into miles of eight-foot rabbit warren, tangled matting-roofed streets (the first of which was put there some four thousand years ago), cobble-paved, damp and cool—past shops that gleam like silver and with jade, past shops where lovely fans are sold and silks, and ivories, and slippers and tea. You've seen China on the screen; you've read of it in books. But you need the purr of ricksha tyres and the pad of a coolie's feet, you need to get down and walk right into the picture, before you feel the magic of it—the real Cathay. Page Thirty-two (Below) The magnificent panorama of Hong Kong Harbour, with a White Empress steamer anchored amongst a maze of Chinese sampans, warships and pleasure craft, freighters and ferry boats. Hong Kong is one of the busiest harbours of the East. (Above) Jewellery Street, Hong Kong—and a frequent street-type Page Thirty-three The White Empresses, after reaching Hong Kong, sail for Manila, capital of the Philippine Islands, and then return, before sailing back to Vancouver. The Philippines may perhaps be called the America of the Far East, for they passed into the possession of the United States in 1898 after the Spanish-American War, as a territory that is governed by a special commission. Magellan, that intrepid and hapless explorer, nearly stamped his name on the map of the Old World, as he did on the New, for in 15 21 he discovered the islands the Spanish were to christen the Philippines, in honour of that Prince of the Asturias who was afterwards Philip II. Manila, the capital, dates from 1570, and Spain held sway here for over three centuries, so that Spanish speech still predominates, with English next, and in less degree the native idiom of Tagalog. Manila To steam into Manila's storied bay, through the narrow strait called Bona Chita, is to realize why this opalescent archipelago got its name of "the Pearl of the. Orient." Your first glimpse is the massive dome of the beautiful Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, towering placidly over all. The streets throb with a kaleidoscope of colour and animation. Truly, the East has its secrets in the art of costume, and no attire is seemlier than that of the Filipino women. A cluster of cities, Manila commingles three civilizations in one. From the smart modern quarter, you invade Intramuros, a fragment of olden Spain, cooped up in a cincture of walls with five venerable gates. In its ring of dried-up moats you may play a round of golf to-day; and drawbridges that used to be raised at nightfall now speed the city'-s traffic at all hours. And to run your car through the labyrinth of bridges and canals that intersect Manila is to appreciate the sultry spell of this Venice of the East. Three Cities in One There are a thousand sights to cover, but if you drive a car you must go carefully. On every hand you encounter miscellaneous traffic, drawn by pony or mule or carabao, and driven by natives for whom the rules of the road hardly exist. Otherwise, you can ride to advantage, in the quaint two-wheeled calesa, or the cheaper and less luxurious carrameta, at twenty centavos for a run of goodly length. You will want to see the Malacanan Palace, where the Governor-Generals resided of old, or the well - equipped Aquarium in the southern bastion of the Intramuros. Bilibid prison is more attractive than it sounds, for of an afternoon the prison band tempers discipline by playing to the inmates at their daily exercise. Sport of a kind is intensely popular, and cock-fighting, a universal passion, causes a heap of money to change hands. Thousands crowd into the spacious cockpits, and in the native quarter you may see the Filipino training his prize bird for the fray. In the market-place you find mounds of strange vegetables, and luscious tropical fruits arranged on vast round trays—chico and lanzons, mangos and mangosteens galore. Flowers abound in rich variety—jasmine, champaca and dama de noche (Lady of the Night), which exudes at nightfall odours of incomparable sweetness. Hats and Cigars Hats and cigars are local manufactures employing thousands of hands. The hats are mainly for export, since no Filipino woman wears them. The cigars appeal to men and women and children alike, and a lengthy fat family cigar dangles in many a home by a length of string. Also you can buy for next to nothing samples of native needlework, the product of tiny brown slender- fingered native hands. Towards the close of day Luneta Park fills with leisure-seekers and resounds with the strains of well- known Filipino bands. Later, the thing to do is to dance in favourite resorts like the roof garden of the Manila Hotel, or else at Lerma Park and Santa Ana. Baguio By way of a change, nothing is better than a drive through 160 miles of enchanting scenery to Manila's summer capital, Baguio. It basks on a tableland of glorious air and flowers and purling streams, surrounded by mountains clad with pine forests. And one of the local features is the army station of Camp John Hay, where there is an open-air amphitheatre of surpassing charm. At much less distance there are drives to Camp McKinley, Montalban and Los Banos. Also a trip to Pagsanjan will repay you well, with a sight of natives disporting themselves in dug-out canoes among seething rapids and resounding waterfalls. The Pacific Blue Riband The record for the fastest voyage is held by the Empress of Japan, which has made the run between Yokohama and Vancouver at an average speed of 22.27 knots. Page Thirty-four AAm AAA'' The Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, Manila—largest and most famous in a land of churches. (Below) One method of native transportation—using the water buffalo, or carabao—and a young Filipino musician who probably aspires to later fame Last photograph by Philippine Tourist Association EMPRESS OF RUSSIA—EMPRESS OF ASIA The sister ships Empress of Russia and Empress of Asia, which maintain the Direct-Express service from Vancouver to Yokohama, have generously planned public rooms and bedrooms, and all those comforts and conveniences so necessary on voyages in semi-tropical climates. The public rooms include a great domed Lounge, Smoking Room, Veranda Cafe, Dining Room, Writing Room, etc., and each ship has eight private suites Page Thiriy-sb ™*i CANADIAN PACIFIC PASSENGER traffic department—principal OFFICES EUROPE Antwerp Belgium W. D. Grosset 42 Place de Meir H. V. Gard . „ Liverpool England M. L. Duffy Royal Liver Building E. S. Spackman ,, -,,' ,, Barcelona Spain Wagons-Lits/Cook 8-10 Paseo de Gracia Ljubljana Jugoslavia M. Jevak Miklosiceva Ulica 13 Basle Switzerland Wm. Muller 3 Place de la Gare Centrale London England C E. Jenkins Trafalgar Square, S.W. 1 Beltast Ireland H. T. Penny 24 Donegall Place >* M R. J. Harden 103 Leadenhall Street, E.C3 Bergen Norway W. F. Muller Guldskogaarden 2 Lucerne Switzerland Bucher & Co. Haldenstrasse 4 Berlin Germany A. W. Treadaway Unter den Linden 17-18 Madrid Spain Wagons-Lits/Cook Calle del Alcala 27 r Berne Switzerland Kehrli and Oeler Bubenbergplatz 9 Malmo Sweden A. Persson Norra Vallgatan 94 Birmingham England J. R. W. Taylor 4 Victoria Square Manchester England R. L. Hughes 43 Cross Street Bristol England T. W. Thorne 18 St. Augustine's Parade Naples Italy Wilmink Borriello 62 Via Agostino Depretis Brussels Belgium G. L. M. Servais 98 Blvd. Adolphe Max Newcastle-on- T England A. S. Craig 34 Mosley Street Bucharest Roumania D. Kapeller Calea Grivitei 181 Oslo Norway D. Jenssen Skippergaten30, P.O.Box 162 Budapest Hungary B. Kovacs Baross Ter. 12, VII Paris France A. V. Clark 24 Boulevard des Capucines Cherbourg France Canadian Pacific 48 Rue Alfred Rossel Prague Czechoslov. W. D. Alder Poric 22, Legio Bank Palace , Copenhagen Denmark Bennetts Tvl. Bureau Raadhusplads, 47 Riga Latvia O. Birsul Smilsu iela 28/30, P.O. Box Danzig Karlsberg Spiro & Co. Langermarkt 41 Rome Italy A. Ross Owen 130 Via del Tritone [478 Dublin Ireland A. T. McDonald 44 Dawson Street, C.2 Rotterdam Holland J. Springett Coolsingel 91 Dundee Scotland H. H. Borthwick 88 Commercial Street Southampton England J. V. Forster Canute Road Florence Italy Eyre & Humbert 1 Piazza Rucellai „ n H. Taylor ,, ,, Geneva Switzerland E. C. Bergmann Rue du Mont Blanc 1 3 Stavanger Norway H. N. Pedersen Ovre Holmegate 22 Glasgow Scotland W. H. Boswell 25 Bothwell Street, C.2 Stockholm 16 Sweden Wagons-Lits/Cook Gustav Adolfs Torg 16 M „ C. L. Crowe ,, ,, Tallinn Esthonia J. Pitka & Son 18 S. Karja Gothenburg Hamburg Sweden Germany Uno Andersson Nils Ericsonsgatan 19 T. H. Gardner Alsterdamm 9 H. S. Richardson ,, Trondhjem Vienna Norway Austria C. I. Kionig Jernbanekaien F. A. King Opernring 6 Havre France J. M. Currie & Co. 2 Rue Pleuvry Warsaw Poland G. Hyna ul Marszalkowska 117 Helsingfors Finland Finska Angfartygs Aktiebolaget Zagreb Jugoslavia A. W. Bradshaw 59 Gajeve Ulica Kaunas Lithuania Fishel Langleben Laisves Aleja 26 Zurich Switzerland A. Kuoni S.A. 7 Bahnhofplatz CANADA Banff Alta. J. A. McDonald Canadian Pacific Station Saint John N.B. C. B. Andrews 40 King Street Edmonton Alta. R. W. Greene Canadian Pacific Building Saskatoon Sask. G. R. Swalwell Canadian Pacific Building Montreal ' Nelson North Bay Ottawa Que. B.C. Ont. Ont. D. R. Kennedy 201 St. James Street West N. J. Lowes Cor. Baker and Ward Sts. R. Y. Daniaud 87 Main Street West J. A. McGill 83 Sparks Street Toronto Vancouver Victoria Ont. B.C. B.C. E. F. Thompson * Canadian Pacific Building J. J. Forster 434 Hastings Street West J. Macfarlane 1102 Government Street Quebec Que. C A. Langevin Palais Station Winnipeg Man. W. C. Casey Cor. Main and Portage UNITED STATES Atlanta Ga. H. C James 404 C & S. Nat. Bk. Bldg. Minneapolis Minn. H. M. Tait 611 Second Avenue South Boston Mass. L.R.Hart 405 Boylston Street New York N.Y. E. T. Stebbing Cor. Madison Ave. & 44th St. Buffalo N.Y. W. P. Wass 22 Court Street Omaha Neb. H.J.Clark 803 Woodmenof World Bldg. Chicago Cincinnati 111. Ohio K. A. Cook 71 East Jackson Blvd. S. E. Corbin 201 Dixie Terminal Bldg. Philadelphia Pittsburgh Portland Pa. Pa. Ore. E. A. Kenney 1500 Locust Street W. A. Shackelford Koppers Bldg., 444 Seventh W. H. Deacon 626 S.W. Broadway [Ave. Cleveland Ohio G. H. Griffin 1010 Chester Avenue St. Louis Mo. G. P. Carbrey 418 Locust Street Dallas Tex. P. G. Jefferson 1212 Kirby Building San Francisco Cal. F. L. Nason 152 Geary Street Detroit Mich. M. E. Malone 1231 Washington Blvd. Seattle Wash. E. L. Sheehan 1320 Fourth Avenue Honolulu T.H. Theo. H. Davies & Co. Spokane Wash. E. S. McPherson Old Nat. Bank Building. Kansas City Mo. R. G. Norris 709 Walnut Street Tacoma Wash. L. N. Jones 1113 Pacific Avenue Los Angeles Cal. Wm. Mcllroy 621 South Grand Avenue Washington D.C. C. E. Phelps 14th & New York Ave. N.W. AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND, FIJI Adelaide S.A. Macdonald, Hamilton & Co. Melbourne Vict. H. F. Boyer, 59 William Street Auckland N.Z. A. W. Essex, 32 Quay Street „ „ Union SS. Co. of New Zealand N.Z. Union SS. Co. of New Zealand Perth W.A. Macdonald, Hamilton & Co. Brisbane Christchurch Qd. N.Z. Macdonald, Hamilton & Co. Union SS. Co. of New Zealand Suva Sydney Fiji N.S.W. N.S.W. Union SS. Co. of New Zealand N. R. McMorran, Union House Union SS. Co. of New Zealand Dunedin N.Z. Union SS. Co. of New Zealand Wellington N.Z. G. A. Glennie, 11 Johnston Street Hobart Tas. Union SS. Co. of New Zealand »» N.Z. Union SS. Co. of New Zealand THE ORIENT Batavia Java Java-China-Japan Line Manila P.I. R. S. R. Hubert, 14 Calle David Canton China Jardine, Matheson & Co. Nagasaki Japan Holme, Ringer & Co. Dairen Manchuria Brvner & Co. Nanking China China Travel Service Fusan Korea Y. Tanaka & Co., Peiping (Peking)China A. C. Henning & Co. 25 Daichomachi, 1, Chome Seoul Korea H. W. Davidson, Seidaimon Hankow China China Travel Service Shanghai China A. M. Parker, 4 The Bund Hong-Kong China E. Hospes, Opposite Blake Pier Tientsin China Jardine, Matheson & Co. Kobe Japan W. R. Buckberrough, 7 Harima-Machi Tokyo Japan D. M. Sinclair, E-7, No. 2 Sanchome, Marunouchi Macao Banco Nacional Ultramarino Yokohama Japan B. G. Ryan, 21 Yamashita-cho Or Local Agents Everywhe, FOR SAFETY AND CONVENIENCE OF FUNDS WHEN TRAVELLING, ALWAYS USE CANADIAN PACIFIC EXPRESS TRAVELLERS' CHEQUES 6-A-36 PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN Many of the photographs in this booklet, not otherwise mentioned, are by the Associated Screen News, Montreal jnpiin • cHinn • mnimn • HonoLiiiu CANADIAN PACIFIC
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Original Format: University of British Columbia. Library. Rare Books and Special Collections. The Chung Collection. CC-TX-224-12
To the far east, Japan, China, Manila, Honolulu : Canadian Pacific White Empress route
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