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British Columbia Historical Books Collection
Tolmie, William Fraser
"Published without notes or editorial additions from a transcript of the original ros. in the B.C. Archives, with a biographical essay by S.F. Tolmie. The journals cover the period 1830 to 1843 from Tolmie's medical studies in Glasgow to his service with the H.B.C. from 1833 onwards at Forts Vancouver, NisquaJIy, McLoughlin and Simpson."-- Strathern, G. M., & Edwards, M. H. (1970). Navigations, traffiques & discoveries, 1774-1848: A guide to publications relating to the area now British Columbia. Victoria, BC: University of Victoria, p. 287.
xv, 413 pages : portraits, map, facsimile, illustrations, photographs, tables ; 23.5 cm
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THE LIBRARY THE UNIVERSITY OF BRITISH COLUMBIA William Fraser Tolmie PHYSICIAN AND FUR TRADER EX LIBRIS This volume is no.-j£Jz:~ of a special presentation edition of 350 copies. It has been tendered to Titttvetsjfe? of tfritbtt fctambifl in appreciation of assistance given the Canada in Color Relief cartography project of Mitchell Map Services. (All Rights Reserved) PRINTED AND BOUND IN CANADA BY MITCHELL PRESS LIMITED Vancouver, B.C. 1963 The Journals of WILLIAM FRASER TOLMIE PHYSICIAN AND FUR TRADER MITCHELL PRESS LIMITED VANCOUVER, CANADA This volume of her grandfathers writings is dedicated to the memory of the late Jean Tolmie Andrews, whose permission made possible the publication of Dr. Tolmie s journals. Foreword No history of British Columbia or the United States Northwest would be complete without mention of Dr. William Fraser Tolmie who came to the Oregon Country in 1833 and lived in the city of Victoria from 1859 until his death in 1886. He was one of that city's outstanding citizens, and served two terms in the prov incial legislature. An ethnologist and a botanist, Dr. Tolmie did much original work on the flora and fauna of the Northwest and wrote widely on these subjects. As a trader with the Hudson's Bay Company he came into intimate contact with the Indian tribes and was a recognized authority on Indian affairs, as well as a student of the different languages and dialects used from Oregon to Alaska. In addition to his commercial duties, he practised medicine, and in his later years he operated a large farm on Vancouver Island where he specialized in the breeding of cattle. Generous and kind hearted, a scholar and a gentleman, such was Dr. W. F. Tolmie, whose diary appears in these pages. We are fortunate, indeed, that this man took the trouble to record his impressions and experiences during a busy and adventurous life. Beginning with his time as a medical student in Glasgow University from which he graduated at twenty years of age, he recorded his journey by sailing ship around the Horn, via the Sandwich Islands, to his destination at Fort Vancouver on the Columbia river. As an employee of the Hudson's Bay Company he served at Fort Nusqually and Fort McLoughlin, and in the course of his duties [vii] visited the Russians in Alaska and assisted in the moving of Fort Simpson in the Naas river area from its first location where Russian opposition had been aroused. Dr. Tolmie was deeply religious and of a philosophical turn of mind and his diary presents an interesting study in the development of the confused and troubled youth to the mature and well balanced man of affairs. He was a close and critical observer and has recorded for us an intimate picture of life in Britain and France during the first half of the nineteenth century. The difficulties and dangers of travel in those days are vividly portrayed, and life in the Northwest recounted in detail. The theories of disease, the medical and surgical treatments used, and the cases Dr. Tolmie attends, make interesting reading, even for the layman, and point up the tremendous advances that have been made in this science in the last hundred years. The description of the Northwest coast of America—the land, the plants and animals, and the aboriginal inhabitants—is justification enough for the publication of this diary. It is an honor to be associated in even a small way with this undertaking, and I heartily recommend this book to anyone who is interested in the early history of the Pacific Northwest of the United States and British Columbia. R. G. Large | viii | Introduction In the Archives of the Province of British Columbia at Victoria are four smallish, quarter-bound volumes containing the quill-pen writings of William Fraser Tolmie, one of the most literate of the earliest pioneers and settlers in the Oregon Country and British Territories of Northwest America. Known only to a handful of historians and a lesser number of anthropologists, occasionally drawn upon for historical reference to some localities in the modern States of Washington and Oregon or the Province of British Columbia, these journals hitherto have been relatively inaccessible and unpublished; yet they are a veritable mine of information on the first era of commercial settlement in the Pacific Northwest of North America. They came to the attention of H. R. MacMillan, CBE, a British Columbia industrialist much interested in preserving and making known the recorded experiences of those whose efforts and sacrifices first opened the West to commerce. The owner of the diaries, Mrs. L. R. (Jean) Andrews, a granddaughter of Dr. Tolmie, had placed them in the care of the Provincial Archives. At Mr. MacMillan's suggestion, she gave authority for their release and collaborated with his plan that they should be edited and published. Unhappily, Mrs. Andrews was not to live to see them transcribed, edited and placed in the public realm through the medium of this volume. Here are combined the writings in four journals. They cover somewhat more than twelve years in the life of the youthful Tolmie, physician and fur trader in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company in what was then the British portion of a region generally H described as the Oregon Country. Life in old Fort Vancouver on the Columbia, at Fort Nusqually on Puget's Sound and Fort McLoughlin in the country of the Bella Bella and Bella Coola Indians is described in considerable detail. To readers of today and tomorrow, the diary record as here presented will be an aid to the further study of the earliest days of commerce and settlement in the Pacific Northwest. It can and doubtless must be a basis for further research by scholars of Northwest history. Almost endless annotation would be possible and would enhance interest in this diary as it relates to other published and unpublished writings of that time. But such a scholarly task must be left to the research it is hoped the availability of the Tolmie journals will inspire in years to come. This is substantially the account of twelve years just as set down by the writer not for publication but for his own interest and reference. In editing, care has been exercised not to deprive those who may read the book with a particularized interest of anything that would likely be of significance, whether the approach to understanding of the time reported upon be as historian, medical man, ethnologist or naturalist—or merely interested reader or collector of books and information on regional history. The author wrote with quill pen, using ink since grown faint and in a hand often hard to decipher. The publisher is indebted to Janet R. Mitchell for the many hundreds of hours spent with reading glass and typewriter, making a careful attempt to reproduce precisely what the diarist wrote some 130 years ago. Some compression was obtained by omitting passages about daily weather reports and recorded items which would throw no light on the times but merely make the book tedious. If superficial interest were the end to be served, still more compression could have been achieved; but what the resultant volume might then have gained in popular appeal and ready readability certainly would have been at the expense of its usefulness to those who read for all the insight into the fur trade days and into the background of a frontier medical man that this remarkably faithful diary otherwise affords. For his reading of the transcript in proof form, acknowledgement is made of the kindness of Dr. R. Geddes Large of Prince Rupert. He contributed the editorial aid uniquely available from a man who is himself a physician, the son of a coastal medical missionary to the Indians in the coastal country near old Fort McLoughlin, a student of British Columbia coast history and the author of several historical works on the region. The publisher is indebted, as well, to Dr. Ian McTaggart Cowan of the University of British Columbia for his perusal of the journals through the eyes of a naturalist. The interested collaboration of Dr. Willard Ireland, Provincial Archivist, who has shown a keen desire to have the Tolmie diaries more fully recognized and distributed, has been most helpful. Illustrations have been obtained from a number of sources including Leonard R. Andrews from the papers of the late Mrs. Andrews, and the files of the Provincial Archives. [xi] Contents Fort Simpson and Fort McLoughlin 281 Notes and Correspondence 321 Return to Britain 337 Trip to Cape Verde Islands 347 Paris Interlude 353 Appendix A 385 B 396 C 397 ' D 399 E 400 F 403 ' Q 404 H 406 Index 407 Illustrations Facing Fage William Fraser Tolmie 16 A Typical Diary Page 17 Dr. John McLoughlin 48 Hon. John Work 49 Map of the Pacific Northwest, 1857 176 At Honoruru in Owhyee 177 Fort Vancouver, A Scene 208 Fort Vancouver, 184$ 209 Qranary at Fort Ntsqually 240 Bella Bella on Site of Fort McLoughlin 241 Fort Simpson by Lockahy 272 Mrs. W. F. Tolmie 273 Family Portrait at cCloverdale\ 1877 368 'Cloverdale' on the Tolmie Farm 369 Descendants of W. F. Tolmie 400 Hon. S. F. Tolmie 401 [xv] The Diarist It is late Fall of the year 1831 and the sturdy little barque Qanymede, in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company, is in tropic seas. Bound from Gravesend to the Columbia River on the far distant coast of Northwest America, she is trudging southward, her passengers and crew enjoying the warmth of the Southern Atlantic in anticipation of the weather hazards of Cape Horn. There she will round into the Pacific and begin the long run to the Sandwich Islands and thence to the Oregon Country. From time to time other sailing vessels heave into view, overhaul and pass her. She will take no pennants for speed. In the saloon, braced against the rolling of the ship by his position between bulkhead and table, a young man sits with books about him. On the table is a small leatherbound journal in which he writes occasionally, dipping quill pen in an ink bottle that must be guarded against sliding and spilling. Both as to height and weight he is of slight build. The boyish countenance of his twenty years is fair and speaks both of scholarship and those outdoor pursuits to which he has applied a student's interest in the things of Nature. Amongst his papers, in tough leather trunks and boxes that carry his books, instruments and clothing, is a graduation diploma of Glasgow University to practise medicine and surgery. In the custom of that day he has achieved more than a dabbling familiarity with the sciences. He has written "W. F. Tolmie" on the fly-leaves of quite an assortment of books in addition to those dealing with medicine. Looking through his "library" on shipboard and the books he has borrowed from a fellow-passenger, one would rightly conclude that this serious-minded Scots youth reading in the saloon of the English ship Qanymede is a student of botany, biology, zoology, anthropology, Latin and French, geography i] and theology, to say nothing of the new and questionable "science" of phrenology. Still accustomed to the disciplines of formal, academic education, young Dr. Tolmie is diligently using his time on shipboard very much as though he were still in a place of learning—and in his diary, berating himself harshly for recurring uninvited intervals of daydreaming. But reveries would come naturally to any homesick youth of high intelligence who has just committed himself to practise his newly-acquired, profession in an unknown wilderness country infinitely remote from his "ain folk" of Glasgow and Campbelton. Born in Inverness, William Fraser Tolmie is related to the distinguished Frasers of Inverness-shire. Failing in shipbuilding, his father has moved to Campbelton and then to Glasgow in pursuit of advancement in the changing life of Scotland in the era following Cullo- den and in the first influence of the Industrial Revolution. His father and his younger brother Alick found success elusive and in their impecunious position gave young Tolmie some concern, while he was a medical student. His own lot had been made more secure since an uncle in the profession, Dr. James Tolmie, had recognized his talent and earnest industry and had inspired and financed his study of medicine. What the youth had succeeded in learning in only five or six years over and above an elementary Scottish education was, for those times, impressive. This breadth of knowledge and catholicity of tastes in reading—for he appears to have relished reading everything from Dr. Dwight, the evangelist, to the Arabian Nights along with an encyclopaedic range of works of scientific knowledge—certainly attested industry, application and mental ability. Much of what young Tolmie had studied and would practise in medicine might well, today, appal the graduate of a medical school, but at that time it represented, no doubt, a goodly part of the sum total of knowledge of the arts of healing. Sailing southward, with the wrack and creaking of the wooden ship and the sound of waves and of the wind in rigging and against straining sails, the untried young doctor used his time to improve his professional store of learning—and thought much about his family. His religiously devout mother had died while he was still a child. 2] He and his brother Alick had been raised partly in the "thraldom" (as he wrote) of his Aunt Tulloh (Mrs. Jane Tulloh) who doubtless reared them strictly on the diet of "parritches", Presbyterianism and the Catechism for which Scotland and many of its distinguished emigrants were even then well and favorably known in America. This dour influence on his character would pervade Tolmie's being and trouble his conscience with a well-established sense of guilt and inadequacy only gradually yielding as he read widely, experienced life, travelled and reflected on the mysteries of Creation and the Great Plan. Here on the Qanymede he is in company with a sketchily introduced Dr. Gairdner, a young but apparently somewhat more experienced doctor, going to serve the great fur-trading company at Fort Vancouver. With the rather priggish Gairdner, young Tolmie has negotiated, in return for the use of an instrument needed by his confrere, his own right to drink of the intellectual delights of the other man's precious collection of books. He has the time and opportunity now; later, who knows how he and the Gairdner books may be parted? So he reads against time of separation. This accounts in part for the diversity of subject matter covered. The two young medical men share not only their profession but the inconveniences of the ship's cramped accommodations, the daily disappointments and irritations of poorly prepared and presented food, an abnormal amount of leisure time to be filled with recreation and study, the society of two prim married ladies going to join their husbands on the Sandwich Islands, responsibility for care of the crew and a jointly exploited interest in dissecting fish, fowl and turtles brought aboard the ship for food or diversion. Not reacting sympathetically to one another or to be relaxed in each other's company, the pair develop on shipboard and nurse their petty irritations until, near the end of their journey, they exchange stiffly polite notes of mutual protest. The fur trading organization that engaged Tolmie on the recommendation of Sir William Hooker, naturalist, had been formed in 1670 by Prince Rupert and his Company of Adventurers of England trading into Hudson's Bay. It held from the Crown complete lordship, [3: legislative, judicial and executive power as well as commercial monopoly over all the country whose rivers and tributaries drained into Hudson's Bay. The corporation also received the right to "the whole and entire trade and traffic to and from all havens, bays, creeks, rivers, lakes and seas into which they shall find entrance or passage by sea or land out of the territories, limits or places aforesaid." The Company had great powers to delegate to its servants. Its territory was presumed to include the greater part of British North America, in the main a vast, partly explored wilderness country covering about half of the land mass of the continent. By 1821 it had fought and absorbed a vigorous contestant for the fur trade's rewards in the North-West Fur Company, based in Montreal. Many decades had passed in which the rather formalized way of life of the British fur trade sought little change in the circumstances of a country whose yield of furs could only be injured by the kind of aggressive colonization that was pressing inexorably westward in the more southerly and American portion of North America. The good ship Qanymede carried not only personnel but merchandise. This it would discharge at the journey's end to stock Hudson's Bay Company posts with trade goods for which Indians would swap their beaver, mink and sea otter pelts. Such was the commerce that opened the northwest of North America before gold caused its surge of feverish excitement. The fur trade would sustain great exploration enterprise by unusually well-disciplined, law- respecting and vigorous men until such time as over-trapping of animals, invasion of settlers and a decline in the custom of British and European gentlemen to wear stove-pipe shaped beaver hats destroyed much of the elements of its pioneering prosperity. Miners and land users would walk the trails blazed by the fur traders and build civilization where the wilderness merchants and their Canadian servants preceded them. But in the long era before the miner's pick and the settler's axe disturbed the wilderness silence, the blaze-marks on the trails were made by moccasined men of the solitude-loving fur-trade. Dr. Tolmie's task was to be taken up near the end of the time when traffic in fur and trade goods was the reason for nearly every [4] white man's enterprise in the Northwest. He would live to see the first signs of modern times with the building of a railway across Canada. This lonely, mountainous region was little changed by the fur trade. Mining brought fame and people. Lightly though civilization pressed its imprint on the West in fur trade days, it had need of the products of civilization if it was to win those of the woods and rivers. Amongst its requirements was the service of medical men. There was no great concern for the health of Indian tribesmen; rather the medical men attended them with reluctance and not at all if there appeared to be danger of retaliation through superstition. After all, the Hudson's Bay Company was much more solicitous of the health of its servants than of its customers. Its servants were a classification wide enough in its reach to take in all those who made a hard livelihood as packers. These might be Indians and French-speaking Metis or halfbreeds who paddled the canoes, packed over the portages, guided exploration, loaded and goaded the packhorses and rapidly wore themselves out in strangely resigned and cheerful service to the great fur trading company. In the Company's service were the wintering partners and their traders and clerks, artisans and native-born women folk who constituted what there was of an organized society in Northwest America of that time. There were contagious fevers to be assuaged with almost totally inadequate means, bones to be set, scurvy to be recognized and warned against or remedied, wounds to be dressed, infections countered, carbuncles lanced, aching teeth to be drawn and men to be bled for a presumed over-supply of blood distressing the venous system when no other cure seemed to suggest itself. Being practical, the Hudson's Bay Company was alert for signs that a physician and surgeon, much in contact with all that went on in the limited confines of a stockaded collection of log buildings devoted to trade with the Indians, might have the aptitude and interest to make himself useful not only as a healer but as a trader. It is understandable that young medical men recruited to the Oregon Country would be inspired by the example of the chief trader—or, as he was locally, called, the "governor" at Fort Vancouver—the mighty Dr. John McLoughlin. That tall, big-framed 5] t man, with white plume of hair and understanding heart, was to be young Tolmie's chief and to decide the course of his early years in the New World. The older man's awareness of the practicality of a knowledge of medicine and a skill in bartering with Indians would favorably affect young Tolmie's future and give him command of trading posts at an earlier age than might have been the case with a young man with only clerical or warehouse background. Under Governor George Simpson, McLoughlin was supremely powerful in his domain and by all accounts a benign despot. When he lost his son by murder at Fort Stikine in April, 1842, and found the governor of the company disinclined to punish those responsible for the killing, Dr. McLoughlin became embittered and critical of Simpson. He was in effect ousted from his post and lost the power he had exercised over a great domain for 21 years. Thus rejected but with resources in mills and land holdings on the Willamette River near Oregon City, he engaged in enterprise as the first private industrialist of the region. Dr. McLoughlin died in 1857, three years before Fort Vancouver's trading buildings were vacated by the Hudson's Bay Company years after a boundary settlement that gave to the United States the Oregon Country to the 49th Parallel. Today his home is preserved as an historic site above Willamette Falls and he is referred to as the Father of Oregon. But in 1831 he was still a loyal and dedicated servant of the Hudson's Bay Company, the arbiter of law and initiator of executive action in all the region from Northern California to the Russian boundary at the Naas River. He would be ready to welcome a young medical aide with disciplined kindliness, understanding and appreciation. Fort Vancouver had been founded in 1825. 8 became the Hudson's Bay Company's headquarters for the Columbia Department and administered all of the fur trade west of the Rockies. It was located in the Oregon Country where existed a joint British and United States occupancy until such time as a territorial boundary could be established. The Company had sole British trading rights. Its servants resisted as best they could the exercise of trading rights by Americans, but it fought a losing battle against the unflagging pressure of United States trappers, traders and settlers in the disputed [6: territory. Consequently Fort Vancouver was early recognized to have a limited life expectancy as the nerve centre of the Company's trading system in the Pacific Northwest. In its heydey, however, with McLoughlin's energetic interest in agriculture and his often-reported hospitality to visitors, it flourished as a well-managed farming operation of impressive proportions and had administrative and a certain cultural contact with the country from the Spanish to the Russian territories. Later it was to be succeeded in these functions by Victoria on Vancouver Island. The Qanymede, a barque of 213 tons, had made two voyages to the Columbia (1828 and 1830) before that of 1832 when Dr. Tolmie was a passenger. She had been bought by the Hudson's Bay Company for £2700 in 1830 and continued in the service to the West Coast of America until 1837 when she was sold for £1700. No picture of the ship is known to exist but of life aboard a vessel of that time some revealing glimpses are afforded by the Tolmie diary. Dr. Tolmie's farm house, 'Cloverdale', still stands in Victoria where the city has grown around it. His library of books was, in part, bought by a Portland, Oregon, citizen and is in the John McLoughlin house at Willamette Falls, not inappropriately being thus associated with relics of the life of his chief factor who welcomed him when the Qanymede had reached its destination at Fort Vancouver. One of the first resident doctors in what is now the Province of British Columbia, by reason of his time at Fort McLoughlin, the first white man to climb Mount Rainier, certainly one of the earliest visitors to the northwest evincing an educated interest in the sciences and in the anthropology of the new land; importer of good livestock to Vancouver Island, legislator, botanist and student of Indian languages, Dr. Tolmie in his quiet way made many contributions to the growth of a new society. He pioneered in what was, when he first saw it, a land peopled almost wholly by Indians unknowingly in contact with those who would so soon overrun and replace them. Reading and writing in the saloon of the Qanymede speculating on his future, young Dr. Tolmie could not have conceived that his words would be read in a sophisticated age when the Island of Owhyee he would soon visit in the Sandwich Group would be as it [7] is today and served as to transport by aircraft covering in only part of one day the journey from Britain it would take five months or more to make by roundabout, sailing ship route. Neither would he know he would not again live in Britain but would spend the rest of his lifetime in the rugged new land he would adopt and serve with his talents as physician, trader, agriculturist and legislator. His diary ended while he was returning from Europe as surgeon in charge at Fort Vancouver, after his time at Fort McLoughlin on Milbanke Sound and before his years as chief trader at Fort Nusqually on Puget Sound, near the site of what is now the city of Tacoma. It is possible that there were other diaries but his own final entry, many years later, when he was an elderly man visiting some of the scenes of his youth, gives a fairly strong indication that this collection embraces virtually all of what he systematically recorded of thoughts and observations and that he did not continue the practice. Some of his youthful interest had seemed to be waning as familiarity and routine work dulled his sense of novelty. Given to introspection, the surgeon-fur trader at lonely posts yet would resist committing fully to paper, as a more emotionally expressive diarist in the same circumstances might have done, the inevitable revolt of a cultured and educated mind against over-long absence of contact with people and places of learning. He continued to read but this must have accentuated quite as much as it relieved his sense of great physical isolation in a land often dreary from heavy winter rains and the darkness of thick cloud covering. Abstemious of habit, religiously conscious of the Sabbath in a Protestantism that revealed lack of sympathy with Catholicism and moved from doctrinaire Presbyterianism to something he described as Pantheism and Universalism, Dr. Tolmie reveals in his writing an even disposition but singularly little inherent gaiety. The ebullience of humor and the great conviviality in gatherings which came, on occasions, to most members of the fraternity of fur traders in the West, appear not to have been present—or at least not present in any notable measure—in the character of this dour and conscientious young Scot. He held his emotions in close check, turned naturally to scholarly pursuits for recreation, disclosed a rather rigid though ] not wholly disinterested bachelor regard for what he would describe as "the opposite sex", declined, with a whimsical diary note, the unappealing "attractions" of a dusky maid rather pathetically striving to exercise on him her feminine wiles. In short, as the reader may agree, he presents through his entries a definite impression of a young man of admirable qualities whose ingrained training gave him little chance to oppose a sense of frustration with relaxation of his almost puritanical standards. Thus may be explained some rather dispirited entries and certain prolonged lapses in writing but he spared himself the anguish of repentance. It seems abundantly clear that young Tolmie, under these circumstances, resisted remarkably well the vapors of despair that might have overwhelmed a less competent mind or caused a defeated retreat back to softer ways and cultured surroundings. In the service of the Company, the mails brought to the fur trade forts—however belatedly—good reading material from Britain in books and periodicals; there were the occasional experiences, too, of great compensation when educated visitors from the civilized world joined the traders in their long evenings of discussion at table in the dining halls and at after-dinner communion. Then the men of the wilderness, hungry for news and diversion, smoked their clay pipes, exchanged experiences and debated with the guests. Such a solid and responsible servant of the Hudson's Bay Company would soon be appreciated for his dependability and versatility. When Tolmie's courage in the face of danger was satisfactorily established, and his ability to act with a cool head, he would have won his right to take responsibility. A man commanding a stock of valuables for trading purposes, living alone amongst an aboriginal people who coveted the trade goods and were still enough of wild creatures to resort readily to force, would be in danger. He would be troubled about his Hippocratic oath. Practicing his rather sketchy science and art of surgery and healing amongst native people whose gratitude could turn swiftly to superstitious desire for revenge in the event of medical unsuccess, at times he had to refuse to treat the sick. A study of the causes of a disparate result in native Indian Mr f reaction to contact with white men in the American West and the British West of North America would involve much research and some disagreement. Part of the reason for the comparatively little armed clash and bloodshed in British-ruled territory had to do with the fact that those who came in contact with the Indians for both the Hudson's Bay Company and the Northwest Company and later for the merger organization had little or no land hunger to satisfy. They were not individual enterprisers but servants of a company whose hope of success depended on a sustained flow of furs from willing hunters and trappers. Anger and revenge were luxuries which such mercantilists could ill afford. Unlike the American frontiersmen, the fur traders of Canada and the western territories and colonies did not bring their women with them. They worked out a way of life in which they co-habited with the natives, many united with Indian and part-Indian wives in "custom of the country" marriages that had general recognition. Many of these unions were later solemnized by church ceremonies attended not only by the principals involved but by their interested progeny. Dr. Tolmie, himself, was to court and marry a daughter of the able Hudson's Bay factor, John Work, and live in happy relationship with family ties in the New World that mixed the bloodlines of the Scots and the people who had inhabited the West for uncounted centuries before the white man came. This, then, is the diary of a frontier medical man whose story is told in his own words, without embellishment. It tantalizes often in what it leaves unsaid but more than compensates in the revealing flashes of insight into the first era of white enterprise and settlement in the Pacific Northwest. Howard T. Mitchell mm In Scotland 1830-1832 Friday, October 8, 1830: Wrote to Uncle James mentioning the classes I am to attend the ensuing Session &c. Wrote to Catherine Fraser. Called on Doctor Hooker. Saturday, October 9: Assisted as dresser at Hospital. ' Sunday, October 1 o: At church in the forenoon. Had a walk in the afternoon with Webster and Jephson. Monday, October 11: Was present at the installation of the Marquis of Lansdowne as Lord Rector of the University. Liked the Marquis's speech. Called at Mr. Mitchell's in the evening and met Miss G. O. there. Tuesday, October 12: Attended the meeting of the Medical Society. Heard an Essay on Bronchitis read. Proposed a new member. Read forty pages of Cullen's Practice of Physic in the evening. Saturday, October 16: Walked to Cathkin Hills. Found very few botanical specimens. Wednesday, October 20: Assisted as dresser at the Infirmary. Wrote Dr. Tolmie. Read the article "Ulcers" in Cooper's Surgical dictionary. Thursday, October 21: Called on Mrs. McFunn. Extracted a tooth (for the first time) at Infirmary. Saturday, October 23: Acted as Dresser at Infirmary. Am to continue to do so till the Quarter is expired. Tuesday, October 26: Attended the meeting of the Medical Society. Heard an essay on Chincough read. The Query "Can functional disease exist without structural derangement?" was discussed. Wednesday, October 27: Reed, a letter from my father dated Dundee. Began to read the 1st Vol. of Thomson's Chemistry. Friday, October 29: Went to the theatre. Monday, November 1: Read the Anatomy of Drunkenness. Liked the book very much. Tuesday, November 2: Attended the meeting of the Medical Society. Proposed Webster and Forsyth as members. Got Davis's Midwifery from the Library. Saw the McCaskells and Mr. Mcfunn in the Evg. n]: Wednesday, November 3: Called on Mr. Webster and returned Mr. Forsyth the instruments which I borrowed from him a fortnight ago. Thursday, November 4: This being the fastday went to church in the forenoon, attended the Infirmary in the afternoon and took tea with Webster in the evening. There was a thunderstorm this afternoon about 5 p.m. accompanied by a fall of hailstones of a remarkably large size. The flashes of lightning were extremely vivid and were almost instantaneously followed by the loudest peals of thunder I have ever heard. The wind was southerly. Friday, November 5: Attended a Meeting of the Curators of the College Medical Library. Sunday, November 7: Heard sermon in the College Hall in the forenoon. Went to the Infirmary afterwards. Tuesday, November 9: The Medical classes were opened today. Attended all the introductory lectures. Liked Burns & Badham's Lectures very much. Attended the meeting of the Medical Society in the evening. Proposed Mr. J. Tennent as a member. Wednesday, November 10: Cloudy, frequent showers. Attended a meeting of Curators to fix a day for examining the Library when Saturday first was appointed. Thursday, November 11: Rain. Showers of sleet & hail. Attended Infirmary—Amputation above the knee performed by Dr. Buchanan— both ends of the ligatures on arteries were cut off. Amputation of ring finger by Dr. Perry. Saturday, November 13: Wrote my uncle Dr. Fraser informing him that my father wished me to invest the legacy of £100 left to me by my Grandmr. in business. Sunday, November 14: Went to Dr. Mitchell's church in the forenoon. Monday, November 15: Attended a meeting of curators to prepare the report of the state of the Medical Library. Tuesday, November 16: Attended the meeting of the Medical Society —Essay on Neuralgia—Query—Do purgatives form an essential part of the treatment of Dysentery? Wednesday, November 17: Enrolled myself as a student of Anatomy —Chemistry & Surgery today. Friday, November 19: Went into dissecting room for the first time. Studied the bones of the Cranium. Saturday, November 20: Heard clinical lectures at Infirmary. Sunday, November 21: Heard a very dull sermon at the College Hall, attended the infirmary in the afternoon. [12] Monday, November 22: Called on Mr. Macaskill. Received a letter from my uncle Dr. Fraser in answer to mine of the 13th Currt. declining to agree to my father's proposal. Tuesday, November 23: Attended the meeting of the Medical Society. No Essay or Query. Wednesday, November 24: Attended a meeting of the Medical Students; when it was moved that an academic cap should be adopted by the Med: students I opposed the motion which however was carried. The Irish students with the exception of one, opposed the measure & when they found themselves in the minority, they became very clamorous and behaved in a very rude & disgraceful manner. Thursday, November 25: Gave in my name to Drs. Jaffray & Thomson for examinations. Friday, November 26: Began to attend Monsr. Lecomte's drawing class today. Saturday, November 27: Heard a clinical lecture by Dr. Perry. Sunday, November 28: Attended Infirmary. Tuesday, November 30: Attended meeting of Medical Society. Essay on uterine hemmorhage. Wednesday, December 1: By my fathers desire wrote my uncle Mr. Fraser requesting him to advance us £100 at a 12 mos. bill. Thursday, December 2: Took tea with Mr. Jephson. Mr. J. & I have agreed to visit each other every Thursday evg. alternately to examine each other on the lectures we have heard during the preceding week. Friday, December 3: Took Mr. Ellis to the Hunterian Museum. Saturday, December 4: Heard Dr. Buchanan's clinical Lecture—On removing both ends of the ligatures in amputation & on the double oblique flap. Sunday, December 5: Heard sermon at the College hall in the forenoon. Went to the infirmary in the afternoon. Monday, December 6: Saw my old schoolfellow J. Cargill today. He is to study medicine at the College here this Session. Tuesday, December 7: Went to the Meeting of Med: Soc: Was appointed Custos Sigilli—Got Shaw on the Spine, & several other works out of the Library. Returned Thomson on Inflamation. Friday the 17th was appointed as the day on which the Anniversary dinner is to take place. Wednesday, December 8: Saw Dr. Buchanan perform Lithotomy on a boy 2 years old in 2 minutes. He extracted a small stone about the size of a large bean. Dr. Perry attempted to perform the same operation on a [i-3 man but after many attempts did not succeed; the patient lost upwards of 2 lbs of blood in the evening. Dr. Perry removed a calculus about 2 in. in length and 3A in. in diameter from a man aged 48. The operation was rather tedious from the difficulty of getting at the stone. Thursday, December 9: Received a letter from my Uncle refusing to accede to my father's second proposal. Friday, December 10: Began to take notes in Surgery today. Saturday, December 11: Walked to the botanic garden along with Jephson & Forsyth. Heard Dr. Balmannos clinical lecture. Sunday, December 12: At College Hall in the forenoon Infirmary afterwards. Took tea with Webster in the Evening. Beautiful Aurora Borealis at 10 o'clock P.M. Tuesday, December 14: No lecture from Dr. Burns this morning. An inspection at infirmary. Did not attend Dr. Jeffray. Went to meeting of Medical Society, Essay on Fever. Proposed Mr. S. Thomson as a member. After a protracted debate it was decided that smoking is not to be tolerated in the Reading Room—Took Monsr. Lecomte to the Museum. Wednesday, December 15: Two operations at Infirmary. Amputation of thumb at carpal articulation and of the leg above the knee—both by Dr. Perry. Thursday, December 16: Attended Dr. Balmanno today. Friday, December 17: Dined with the other members of Medical Society at the Commercial Tavern. Spent the evening very pleasantly. Saturday, December 18: Nothing particular. Sunday, December 19: Went to the College church in the forenoon. Monday, December 20: Attended classes & infirmary. Nothing particular. Thursday, December 23: Went to a ball at Mrs. Campbell's. Danced till 3 o'clock. Saturday, December 25: Christmas Holidays commenced today. Had some good skating on Hogganfield Loch. Some friends, the young men in the Warehouse &c. dined with us. Saturday, January 1, 1831: Went a firstfitting lastnight for the first time in my life. Had some excellent fun. Was introduced to the Macnaughts. Tuesday, January 4: Classes recommenced. Dr. Thomson lectured in his new class room for the first time. Wednesday, January 5: Several interesting cases in the Infirmary—Many cases of fracture in consequence of the slipperiness of the streets & the festivities of the season. Went to Miss Aitken's along with Mr. McKillar in the Evg. [14: Thursday, January 6: Went to Mrs. McNaughts in the evening. Found Webster & Forsyth there. Came away about 12 o'clock after having danced some quadrilles & country dances. Saturday, January 8: Dr. Buchanan delivered a clinical lecture today on Scrotal Hernia and the use of the Lithoplatome. Sunday, January 9: Heard Dr. Mitchell preach in the forenoon. Spent the evening at Mr. Webster's. Monday, January 10: Attended Andersonian soiree. Mr. Smith Jordan- hill read a paper on a fossil tree found in Crayleith Quarry. Professor Graham read an interesting essay on the latest discoveries in Chemistry— amongst others he mentioned salicine got from many species of Willow & from the Populus tremula. It possesses medicinal properties similar to those of Sulphate of Quinine. Thorinum, discovered by Berzillius Ulmine. The curdy matter of milk when heated to the temperature of 2/2 Fahr: gives out much serum and becomes a glutinous substance which forms an excellent cement. It will be found useful as an article of diet in long voyages. Tuesday, January 11: Was agreeably surprised by finding my uncle Dr. Tolmie at the warehouse on my return from College. He arrived here today from Edinburgh, where he had been cited as a witness in the Dundonnell Cause. We went to the meeting of the Society in the evening. The Essay by Mr. Irvine on Hemorrhage. Wednesday, January 12: Nothing particular. My uncle dined at the Barracks with the officers of the Royals. Thursday, January 13: Sat with my Uncle all the forenoon as he felt unwell. We went a shopping in the Evening. Friday, January 14: Dr. Buchanan performed amputation above the knee joint in a woman about 50 years of age by the double oblique flap, he secured two vessels. Saturday, January 15: My Uncle & I went to the Botanic Garden. He was very much gratified with the Greenhouses. Sunday, January 16: We heard Dr. Wardeau in the forenoon & liked him. Saw Dr. Buchanan perform Lithotomy at the Infirmary. He extracted a smooth stone about the size of a pigeon's egg. Went to the High Church and heard Principal Macfarlane in the afternoon. Monday, January 17: My Uncle set out for Perth this morning at 7 o'clock. Tuesday, January 18: Called at the barracks & saw Corporal BroWn's wife, she is in a very weak state, sinking daily. Attended meeting of medical society. Essay on Dystentry, Query, How do Poisons act? Was fined 1/- im for going away too soon last meeting. Took tea with Jephson after the meeting. Wednesday, January 19: Followed Dr. Balmanno in his visit today. Read Turner's chemistry in the evening. Thursday, January 20: Messrs. Jephson & Forsyth came to tea with me tonight. We agreed to meet for "examinations" in Anatomy on Tuesdays after the meeting of the Medical Society instead of on Thursdays, as we have done since the commencement of the Session. Friday, January 21: Received a letter from Mrs. Tulloh by Alexr, who arrived today from the North. Called on M. Macaskill in the evening. Played a rubber at Whist—came home at Vz past 9 o'clock & read Bell's Anatomy. Called on Corporal Brown's wife in the forenoon. She is no better —swelling of abdomen increases. Saturday, January 22: Attended Dr. Burn's examinations & Dr. Thompson's lecture on Coal beds, mountain limestone. Heard Dr. Buchanan's clinical lecture on the cases received in to the Infirmary by him on the 31st Deer. & 1 st Jany. My father received a letter from my uncle J. He arrived safely at Campelton & found all his patients convalescent. Sunday, January 23: Went to St. Davids Church in the forenoon. Heard Mr. Walsh preach. Infirmary afternoon. Monday, January 24: An operation for fistula in Ano—Dr. B. dilated the sphincter Ani with his Lithoplatome—it answers well for this purpose or as a speculum vagina. Took tea with the Cargills, & passed the evening agreeably in talking on old stories. Invited them to tea on Thursday night. Tuesday, January 25: Attended meeting of Society—a tedious discussion on Query—Is fever contagious? I supported the positive side. Went to Websters lodgings after the meeting where we had examinations in Anatomy. Mr. Jephson Exammator. Wednesday, January 26: Wrote my Uncle James a long letter. Thursday, January 27: Mr. Car gill took tea with us. I showed him my botanical specimens and laid aside some alpine specimens for him. Friday, January 28: Visited some patients with Mr. Jephson. Saw Mrs. Brown. She is not any better. Was examined by Dr. Buchanan on the cases in his wards in the Infirmary at his house this evening. Went to Mr. McPhun's to supper. Saturday, January 29: Had some skaiting at Hogganfield Loch. Examined some of the books at the Library in the evening. Sunday, January 30: Attended College Church & Infirmary. Mr. Jephson called in the Evening. Monday, January 31: Nothing particular occurred today. 1.6] I "I '^^^M Pf' -• '^^^^ffl * I IP PI ^F DR. W. F. TOLMIE From a water color portrait believed to have been made in 1841. A typical page from the Tolmie diaries. Tuesday, February i: Received my certificate of attendance at the Infirmary for the last Quarter today. Attended Medical Society. Adjourned to Mr. Jephson's after meeting. Usual Examinations were gone through. We sent Dr. Thomson a note informing him that the students in the back seats cannot hear him distinctly &c. Wednesday, February z: Assisted Mr. J. Cargill in dissecting the muscles about the Hip Joint. Did not go to Infirmary. Thursday, February 3: My 19th birthday. Called on Mr. E. Walker in the evening. Friday, February 4: Nothing particular. Attended dissecting room. Saturday, February 5: Attended Dr. Buchanan-s clinical lecture on Lithotomy—it was a repetition of one delivered by him in summer. Sunday, February 6: Heard Dr. Mitchell lecture in the forenoon on a passage in the 119th Psalm. Visited Mrs. Sharp. She is rather better & experienced relief from the sedative pill. Took tea with Mr. Webster. Monday, February 7: Saw Brough & applied caustic to his sores. Tuesday, February 8: Reading query before Medical Society. Not much discussion. Messrs. Webster Forsyth & Jepson met at our house for examinations—which were gone through as usual. Wednesday, February 9: Went to Infirmary at 12 o'clock & read the Journals till One. Saw Scott's apparatus applied to knee joint. Mr. McPhun called in the Evening. Thursday, February 1 o: Read the article Amputations in Sir A. Cooper's Surgical Lectures. Friday, February 11: Took tea with Mr. E. Walker. Went to the meeting of the Campbell Club. Heard Dr. Scouller lecture on Geology. Saturday, February 12: Began to dissect the superior extremity presented to me by Mr. Warburton. Called on the Cargills in the Evening. Sunday, February 13: Went to Dr. Hunters in the forenoon with Mr. Webster. Had a walk in the afternoon. Monday, February 14: Dissected from 11 till 3 o'clock. Tuesday, February 15: Attended meeting of the Med: Society Essay on the Functions of the Nerves. Query on Delirium Tremens. I being respondent opposed the Querist. Wednesday, February 16: Finished the dissection of the Arm & began the Forearm. The Macaskills took tea with us. We played some rubbers at Whist. Thursday, February 17: Received a cut on the midfinger while dissecting —it looked rather angry this evening. [17: Friday, February 18: Having nearly finished dissecting I went to the Infirmary for the first time this week. Read Sir A Cooper on Hernia. Saturday, February 19: Attended Dr. Burns's Examinations. Dissected & made a preparation of the ligaments of the Arm, Elbow & Hand. Heard Dr. Buchanan at the Infy. lecture on the various uses of the Lithoplatome. Called at the Macnaughts in the Evening. Sunday, February 20: Visited a patient of Mr. Jephsons at Camlachie. Accompanied him & Mr. Webster to Castlenulnulk Glen. We found one botanical specimen. Monday, February 21: Attended lectures & Infirmary—Nothing particular. Tuesday, February 22: No lecture from Dr. Burns, he being unwell. Dr. Jeffray commenced the Foetal Circulation. Was examin'd by Dr. Thomson on Arsenious Acid & the tests for discovering its presence in the stomach in cases of poisoning. Attended Meeting of Med: Soc: Was appointed one of a deputation to wait on Dr. Badham to request him to change the day of delivering his clinical Lecture as it at present interferes with the meetings of the Society. Took tea at Mr. Webster's. Examinations on the Arteries of Head & Neck. Wednesday, February 23: Lent Mr. Warburton the 1st. Vol: Bell's Anatomy. Took tea with him. He showed me some of Cloquet's Anatomical Plates. Thursday, February 24: Attended meeting of the Eclectic Society. The Essay read by Mr. Heugh. Friday, February 2 5: Saw a very interesting Inspection at the Infirmary. The cause of death was the bursting of the Aorta descendens which was aneurismal. I intend to copy the case & result of Inspection from the Journal. Mr. Webster called & drunk tea with me. I showed him my case of Surgical Instruments which I received a few days ago. Saturday, February 26: Attended the Dissecting Room till one o'clock when I went to the Infirmary. Dr. Perry delivered a clinical lecture on the treatment of Ulcers &c. Alick & I took tea with the MacNaughts in the Evening. Sunday, February 27: Went to St. Mary's Chapel in the forenoon. Heard sermon from Mr. Almond. Infirmary in the afternoon. Monday, February 28: Attended Infirmary. Saw the inspection of a woman who died from the effects of severe burns. There was slight effusion in the right mid ventricle of the brain, but none either in the Thoracic or abdominal cavities. Read the Trials of Margaret Lyndsay in the evening. Tuesday, March 1: Quarterly Meeting of Society took place. I was re- [18] elected Office bearer Custos Sigilli. Examinations took place at Mr. Forsyth's on the Abdominal Aorta. Wednesday, March z: Mr. McLaren & Mr. E. Walker took tea with us. We played a few rubbers at whist. Thursday, March 3: Saw the testicle dissected at the Rooms. Friday, March 4: Called on Mr. Mitchell about the Speculum Vagina for my Uncle. Wrote my Uncle Major General Fraser informing him how I have been employed for the last few years. Attended meeting of Campbell Club. Saturday, March 5: Heard a clinical lecture from Dr. Buchanan. Spoke to him about his Lithoplatome. Sunday, March 6: Went to College Church in the forenoon. Infirmary in the afternoon. Dr. Perry performed Amputation of the Thigh. He tied the Femoral Artery only and secured the branches of the Profunda by torsion. Mr. Webster took tea with us in the Evening. Monday, March 7: Gave orders to Norie the cutler to construct a speculum vagina on the plan of the Lithoplatome, but larger, for Uncle James. Tuesday, March 8: Attended meeting of Medical Society. Examinations postponed till next Tuesday. Wednesday, March 9: Walked to the Broomulard with my father this morning. He set out for the West Highlands by steam. Thursday, March 1 o: Having felt a fulness of blood in the vessels of the Head and a violent palpitation of the Heart on making any exertion Mr. Webster took blood from my left arm. Felt relieved after the venasection. Friday, March 11: Procured some Vaccine lymph from the institution in London Street and inoculated a child 6 months old. Read Carson on the Circulation in the Evg. Saturday, March 12: Attended Infirmary. Mr. D. Cargill took tea & supper with myself & brother. Joined a Militia Society. Sunday, March 13: Mr. Forsyth called in the Evening. I read Carson on the Circulation. Monday, March 14: I received a very kind letter from my Uncle Alexr. I called on Mr. E. Walker in the Evening and sat with him for a couple of hours. Tuesday, March 15: Attended meeting of Society in Mr. Douglas's absence & acted as Secretary. There was very little discussion. The anatomical examinations were held at Mr. Jephson's. Wednesday, March 16: The speculum Vagina for Uncle J. being finished I wrote him a long letter. Attended Dr. Badham's clinical lecture and admired it. [19] Thursday, March i7: Saw an operation at the Infirmary. The disease was a navus materim on the shoulder of a child, a month old. Dr. Perry passed 5 threads thro' the substance of the tumor and hopes by these means to cause the tumor to ulcerate & slough away. Friday, March 18: Accompanied Dr. Badham in his rounds at the Hospital. Saw a good case of Hypertrophy of the right ventricle of the heart. Attended the meeting of the Campbell Club in the Evening. The Reviewer 6 Essayist were both absent. Saturday, March 19: Accompanied Dr. Badham again today. Heard Dr. Buchanan's clinical lecture on the case in which he tied the Ext. Iliac & Femoral Arteries. My father returned from the Highlands this Evg. Sunday, March 20: Heard divine service at College Hall in the forenoon. Went to the Infirmary in the afternoon. Mr. Walker & I had a walk along the banks of the Monkland Canal I found the Tussilago farfara in flower. Monday, March 21: Visited some fever patients for Mr. Jephson, who is unwell. Called on him in the Evening and applied six leeches to his right temple as he complained of severe headache. Tuesday, March 22: Accompanied the Miss Mcnaughts into the Museum. Was examined by Dr. Thomson on the Oxides of Iron &c. and came off with eclat. Attended meeting of Med: Soct. there was little discussion. Weekly examinations postponed on account of Mr. J's. illness — Sat with Webster till 10 P.M. Wednesday, March 23: Saw an exhibition of Pictures at the Argyle Arcade. Heard Dr. Badham's clinical lecture. On diseases of the Heart. Thursday, March 24: Went to a Tea Party at Mr. Bryce's. I enjoyed myself exceedingly and made my debut as a singer. Friday, March 25: Spent the evening at Mr. Macnaughts. Played a rubber at Whist with Miss Agnes—and afterwards danced quadrilles. Saturday, March 26: Applied the Stethoscope to a patient with diseased heart at the Infirmary. Heard Dr. Perry's Clinical lecture on the Treatment of Burns, He condemns the use of cotton. Sunday, March Z7: Attended Dr. Wardlaw's Church in the forenoon. Had a stroll with Walker in the afternoon. Monday, March 28: Attended a meeting convoced by some of the Gown Students for the purpose of addressing Sir D. Sanford, on the success of the Reform Bill. The rabble having been admitted, order could not be maintained, & the voices of the Orators were drowned by the uproar. The meeting was adjourned sine die. A general illumination took place in the Evg. & it went off with out the occurrence of any riot or tumult. Some very fine trans- [20] parencies with appropriate devices were displayed. During my perambulations I fell in with Mr. Webster & two of the Misses McNaughts and I promenaded the streets along with them until Vi past i o o'clock. Tuesday, March 29: Attended meeting of Medical Society. No Essay. Query by Mr. Webster, at whose lodgings Examinations on the Brain took place. Wednesday, March 30: Heard a clinical lecture from Dr. Badham on Paralysis and afterwards a demonstration of the brain by Dr. Hunter. Thursday, March 31: Amputation below the knee performed by Dr. Perry. Friday, April 1: A cricket Club having been formed amongst the students, a meeting took place (at which I was present) this afternoon—Spent the evening with the Campbell Club—An Essay on Poetry by Mr. Baird. Saturday, April 2: Delivered a letter introducing me to Mr. Angus from Mr. Mitchell. Mr. A. promised to use his endeavours to procure me a dressership at the Infirmary next quarter. Sunday, April 3: Walked in the direction of Monkland in the afternoon and found Tussilago farfara in flower. Monday, April 4: Had a midwifery case, the first I have ever had. The Labour was natural but I had to remove the Placenta by art. Tuesday, April 5: Attended meeting of Medical Society. Essay by Mr. Webster on Paralysis. Examinations took place at Mr. W's on the Brain. Wednesday, April 6: Heard Dr. Bedham's clinical lecture. Thursday, April 7: This was the Fast Day. Mr. Jephson called, & we walked to Castle Milk & found a good many specimens of plants. Mr. Forsyth took tea with us. Saturday, April 9: Saw an Inspection at Infirmary. Inflamed patches were seen on the Internal surface of Aorta. The valves of the left ventricle were also inflamed. No other morbid appearance was observed. The patient having been moribund when brot. into the Hospital her disease was not known. Sunday, April 1 o: Went to the Episcopalian Chap, in the forenoon. Had a walk with my father in the Evg. Monday, April 11: Began to write my Essay on the Circulation of the blood. Tuesday, April 12: Attended meeting of Med. Soc. Essay by Mr. And. Campbell on Cholera Morbus. I was well pleased with the Essay. Examination on the Cerebral Nerves took place at Mr. Jephson's. Wednesday, April 13: Did not attend Dr. Badham's Lecture—remained at home, writing my essay. Thursday, April 14: Was examined by Dr. Thomson on water &c. [21] Friday, April 15: Remained at home all day writing my Essay. Saturday, April 16: Was engaged all day with my Essay. Sunday, April 17: Accompanied my father along the Perth Road for a couple of Miles. My father set out on his North Journey today. Monday, April 18: Finished my Essay today. Tuesday, April 19: Attended meeting of Med. Soc. Read my Essay on the Circulation. Had tea at Websters, no Examiner. Wednesday, April 20: Had a game of cricket in the Evening. Took tea with Mr. Walker. Reed, a letter from John Nicol. He is now desirous to renew our correspondence. Thursday, April 21: The prizes in the Chemistry Class were voted today. The prize in the Senior division was adjudged to me. I wrote my Uncle Alexr. requesting him to send me £10. for my Classes during Summer. I mentioned to him my desire of studying at Paris for a few months after I obtain my Diploma. Friday, April 22: Called on Dr. Buchanan and got my certificate of attendance from him. Mr. Walker took coffee with me. We read the first Book of Montgomery's Satan. Saturday, April 23: Attended a meeting of Students at which it was agreed to petition the Managers of the Infirmary for a Demonstrator of Morbid Anatomy, & for an alteration of some of the Rules of the House which have reference to the students. Called on Mrs. Campbell in the Evg. Sunday, April 24: Went to College Church in the forenoon. Walked in the afternoon along with some friends to Kelvin Grove & Balgray Quarry at which latter place we saw some good specimens of fossil Trees. Monday, April 25: Saw the prizes distributed at the Andersonian. Spent the Evening with the Macaskills. Played at whist, at which game I was very successful. Tuesday, April z6: Attended medical society. Mr. Jephson & Forsyth took tea with me afterwards. No examinations. Wednesday, April Z7: Called on Mr. D. Cargill. Wrote my application for a dressership and gave it in. Thursday, April 28: Received a letter from Uncle Alexr. & wrote him again on the same subject more fully. Friday, April 29: Acted as Dresser at Infirmary today. Pulled 3 teeth & bled four patients. Saturday, April 30: The prizes were distributed at College today. I received from Dr. Thomson "Parke's Chemical Essays". Spent the evening with Walker and read two acts of Hamlet. Sunday, May 1: Went to Dr. Mitchell's church in the forenoon. Had a [**J walk along with my father Jephson & Walker in the Evg. Monday, May z: Witnessed the Procession of Trades which took place in consequence of the Dissolution of Parliament. About 50,000 walked in procession and they were conducted in a manner which is highly creditable to the Citizens of Glasgow. Tuesday, May 3: Sent the Herald Newspaper to Aunt MacKilican. Attended meeting of Med. Society. Took tea with Jephson. No examinations. Wednesday, May 4: Heard Dr. Hooker's introductory lecture this morning the classroom was crowded to excess, and the lecture was very much admired. Went to Mr. Wilson's class in the Evg. Thursday, May 5: Attended a meeting of the Cricket club at Ramshorn in the Evg. Friday, May 6: Entered as a pupil in Mr. W's. Midwifery Class. Received a letter from Uncle Alexr. enclosing Bank order for £10. Saturday, May 7: Played at Cricket in the Evg. Mr. Walker took tea with me. We read Shakespeare aloud afterwds. Sunday, May 8: Walked along the Monkland Canal for an hour in the forenoon. Was detained at the Infirmary in the afternoon till past four o'clock. Wrote Uncle Jas & John Nicol in the evening to go by Aleck tomorrow. Monday, May 9: Accompanied Alick and my father to the Steamboat this morning. A. went to Invern. My father to Lochgilphead. Attended Mr. Hunter's logia class from 11 till 12 A.M. and Mr. Wilson's class in the evening. [Editor's Note: There is here a gap in the diary, to late summer of the following year.] Friday, August 10, 1832: Set out from Glasgow on board the Inverness at 4 this morning for Inven. The weather was fine & the band which accompanied us played several pretty airs and added considerably to the pleasure of the voyage so far but they left us at Greenock, where we arrived at 8 A.M. Went on shore and got some cigars. As usual, at Greenock we had some rain & we had occasional drizzly showers until we had passed through the Kyles of Bute. In rounding Toward Pt. I had a slight foretaste of the horrors of sea sickness. On clearing the Kyles of B. the clouds were dispersed—the sun burst forth with meridian splendour & a pleasant breeze from the south West now proves very refreshing. Read in a volume of the Edinr. Cabinet Library a narrative of the different voyages for the discovery of a N. W. passage & to the N. Pole also a history & account of the present state of the whale fishing at Davis Straits & Greenland. Now off Inverniel. 3 PM—where there is a squadron of herring boats—Sunshine Wind SSW. Arrived at Ardrisay about 4. Steamer ran aground at the entrance to the canal & did not get off uM Jk till 7V2 P.M. A. & I went over to Lochgilphead & took tea at Cranmers Inn. No alterations in the village since I was there in Novr. 1831. Returned to Ardrisay—found in canal a species of Polygonum which I have not yet examined. Saw Revd Mr. McK. Lochigilphead who came on at the Post Office & accompanied us to where we met the maid of Morven near Bel- lanach. Here Alick left us to return by the Maid. Evening fine—Full Moon. At 9 P.M. Ensconsed myself on the cabin sofa for the night, but was frequently disturbed. There are fifteen locks on the Crinan Canal. It is at present much in need of repairs & the Manager is said to neglect his duty. Steamers pay 1V2 a ton per mile on this lA on the Caledonian Canal—it costs about £2.10 to pass through the Crinan once. The country along its banks is almost exclusively the property of Malcolm of Duntroon. Saturday, August 11, 1832: Got up this morning at 5—about the time we arrived at Oban. Walked round the bay to Dunolly Castle. Found by the roadside a Euphorbia which turned out to be the E. helioscopia & a Stachys whose species I did not discover—the situation of Dunolly is very romantic it is perched on the summit of a lofty rock close by the shore & completely commands the entrance to the bay. Had to return with great speed. Morning very fine. Saw to the left as we came out of the bay the entrance to the sound of Mull. Right before us the Island of Kerrera & to the right the mainland a conspicuous object on which was Lochnull observatory built by Genl. Campbell. As we held on our course had some good peeps of the country on either side, which presents some tolerably fertile spots in the Appin district. Saw through a telescope Appin House—(Downie Esqre.) —close on the Coast, Castle Stalker which is surrounded by a moat 30 feet deep cut out of the solid rock, my authority a gentleman in the H LI C's naval service who seemed to know the country well—The Morven mountains looked very barren & gloomy. Breakfasted off Corvan Ferry, got to Fort William about 11. Saw my friend Macaskill who is in the Bank of Scotland there. Visited the fort. The guns on the ramparts are twelve pounders. It is garrisoned by a dozen of the 93 rd Regim: went to the ruins of Inverlochy castle, formerly said to be seat of royalty. Yesterday its sole inhabitants were a black highland bull with a few of his female friends, and a hen & chickens —along with a gentleman, a sailor (of whom more hereafter). Walked over to Bannaway, where we joined the steamboat—a tedious process getting through the locks—much pleased with the scenery of Loch Lochy, which is 11 miles long. Got through it in an hour & 10 minutes—the hills of Letterfinlay situated on the south side of the Loch are covered with grass to their summits probably 1800 feet. This I thought rendered them better for sheep pasturage but have since learn't that from being devoid of heather they [24] cannot afford sustenance to the sheep during winter. Dined while passing from Lochy to & in Loch Oich. It rained heavily—after dinner, as it was the boat's first trip the Capt: treated us to Vz doz wine—in the discussion of which we were engaged until our arrival at Fort Augustus about 9 PM. Made myself comfortable on the sofa h slept until we reached the Red Rock. Reached Inv. at 2 A M Sunday Morng. Remained on board till after breakfast, then went into town, called on my friends the Frasers & accompanied them to church. Mr. Clark preached—I liked his second prayer much particularly his allusion to Cholera. In the afternoon had a walk with Jamesima Went along the Fort George road to the Tollhouse. Met many country people returning from church and among them several rather handsome women. Returned to dine at 4. In the evening saw Miss A. Fraser-Shore— Walked up to the Island. Ness very small. Met nobody I knew. Called on G. Forbes Druggist. Had some conversation with Capt: F. who told me, that the late Genl. Fraser who fell at Saratoga was granduncle to himself (Capt. F.). Balnain, Farr Relig — Sir James Macintosh, my uncle Genl. F. &, I think, Gorthleck. Went to bed at 10 P.M. Monday, August 13: Got up this morning at 7. Went into town & purchased a pocket Inkstand for iod. Breakfasted at Rose Street & at 9, went over to the Steamer intending to get ashore at Ft George, the boat proceeding to Invergordon—the sail down was exceedingly pleasant but could not get a boat at the Ft altho' one passed close the boors would not bear up so I having no alternative I proceeded on to Invergordon—in passing had an excellent view of Ft George. It looked very formidable from the sea. Got to Cromarty about 11 Vz —with a strong tide against us, the Rosshire shore is bold & precipitous. The Crags in many places adorned with firs. Saw numerous small caves along the rocks. Thought Invergordon a very bleak looking place. Saw Mr. Keith Surgeon there. Returned to Ft Geo. about 4 P. M. & was landed at Ardersier Ferry where I had to wait 1 Vz hours for the Ferry boat. Got to Campbelton about six & spent the evg with Uncle J. & his wife. Saw Mt. Johnson of Invss. & his Lady, the late Mrs Currie, Margaret Smith of Nairn & Miss Mary Anne McPherson daughter of Colonel McP. Tuesday, August 13: This being Lammas Fair day saw almost all my old friends at the market—& presented the ladies with fairings. Got from Miss Eliza Anderson a penny watch no a halfpenny ring, the watch from Miss M. Smith. Mr. Gollan & Macandrew of Invss. dined with my uncle. Politics were the all engrossing topic of which both he & I were rather tired. Wednesday, August 14: Called today on Aunt Bell & at Ardersier two boats from Helmsdale approached the shore but the villagers being afraid of cholera would not permit them to land. My uncle & I went out to them in fl a small boat & prevailed on them to remain out until the board of health shd deliberate, afterwards went to the schoolhouse to hear the examination of Fairy & Lett accused of house breaking & theft. Thursday, August 15: Called at the manse. Saw Mrs. & Capt. C—& Gracie Young who is now a handsome & rather pretty girl. Afterwards went to Caroline Pryse's Cottage where the old game cock Wellington now in his sixth year—thence to Fort George. Aunt Tulloh in low spirits, & she says in bad health. Friday, August 16: Botanized in a moss near Gollanfield. Accompanied Sir A. A. & Uncle J. to Mr. G's. Found Parnassia Palustris in great abundance—a few specimens of Cerastium arocuse & Menyanthes trifoliata in plenty. Dined with Sir A. & tea with Mr. Johnson. Saturday, August 17: Rode into Invss., went to the island & got Paris quadrifolia. Searched industriously at Drummond for Linnea borealis but without success. Mr. A. Forbes, Chemist kindly accompanied me, from the hill at Drummond had a magnificent view of the surrounding—to the East the town of Inverness beyond which the Murray Firth appeared calm & unruffled. To the west the picturesque hills of Stratherric & the windings of the Ness seen occasionally through the trees—to the north & in front the wooded summits of the rocky Craig Phadric met below by rich & luxuriant cornfields. The prospect on the whole was one of the finest I have ever beheld & was doubly interesting from my knowing every object that met my gaze. The sun shone brightly & the country had that fresh appearance which in summer always succeeds a shower of rain—on returning to the high road found by the river side the Reseda luteola. Got to Rose Street by 4. Dined with the Fraser's. Left my card at Miss Macintosh Dochgarroch's for my cousin Wm. Fraser. Called at Welsh's Millburn on my way to Campbelton. Mr. W. showed me his Garden which is very well sheltered and contains many rare plants. Got from him a specimen of Linnea borealis which Uncle J has planted. Saw Miss Forbes, a tall red haired girl but with a pleasing expression & Miss W. a smart old maid. Left at 6Vz P.M. & mounting my nag rode off to Campbelton where I arrived at 9, having had a fall at the road leading to Culloden House but without injury. A gun was fired close to the poney which startled her. On Sunday—Went to the Ardersier Church. [Editor's Note—The diary herewith reverts to 1831 with entries as follows:] Tuesday, June 21, 1831: Started with Forsyth Jephson & Walker on a botanizing excursion at 7 o'clock this morning. Arrived at McGavie at 9, where we breakfasted. Forsyth ate voraciously. I purchased a fur cap here & gave my blue bonnet to a poor boy. We then set out with renewed vigour for Strathblane the next stage on our route and beguiled the way with relating [26] anecdotes. After walking about 3 miles we came to a small lake abounding in specimens of the Water Lily in flower. By the sight of these Jephson became so enraptured that he threw off his shoes and stockings & waded into the water to gather some. Having walked a little further on we found that we had lost our way, which put Jephson & Walker into a devil of a funk. I proceeded to a farm house & soon rectified the mistake. We passed Strath- blane without seeing it & got to Killearn about 6 miles without meeting with any adventures worth recording. From Killearn we came to Balforn—& from thence to Bucklyvie where we stopped for the night. It rained incessantly during our last two hours walking—& Forsyth & I having no umbrella got completely drenched. At Bucklyvie where we arrived at 5 o'clock I got payt. of two accots. due my father. We stopped at Stewarts Inn where we were comfortably served. From Milngavie to Killearn the scenery is very pretty, the country is well wooded, & some of the land appears to be tolerably fertile. Balfron is rather a well built village—the aspect of country from it to Bucklyvie is dreary. Wednesday, June 22: Went to bed lastnight at Vz past ten. Slept well. Got up this morning at Vz past 5 o'clock & walked to Aberfoil to breakfast (a distance of 9 miles). The scenery is very romantic most of the hills are covered with verdure to their summits. Having breakfasted at Aberfoil where we were but indifferently served, Walker & Jephson went to an emminence a little above the inn to take sketches while Forsyth and I angled in the Forth which flows close by the Inn. Finding that the fish were not disposed to be caught we took the way to Loch Katrine intending to pick up our companions on the way. We made ourselves hoarse shouting to them but could not succeed in making them hear us. The lazy fellows (as I afterwards understood) having fallen asleep. Proceeded along a very rugged road towards Duke of Montrose slate Quarries—Expecting to find our fellow travellers there before us. There are only fifty men employed in these quarries which Jephson told us were the finest in Britain. Much disappointed with them. Saw three fellows about 2 miles behind, taking the road to Loch Katrine. Overtook them and rated them soundly for their stupidity. Saw to the right Loch Archil a small mountain tarn and to the East Loch Venachan and Callender. Took tea at Sir A Anderson's on Monday—Went on a picnic to Dulsie— the party consisted of Mrs T. M. Smith. M. Macpherson. H. Hutchison, Sir A. A., Uncle J & Myself. Had Falconers Car & four ponies besides, by which we were all accommodated. I rode Mary Anne's poney to Cawdor. Arrived at Dulcie about 2, dined at the Farm house—the scenery along the banks of the river is very grand—but as so long a time has elapsed since I visited it I shall not attempt a description. Set out on our return at 5—the [27: Dr. Driving the car Sir A. Mrs. T. & A. H. & myself on horse back. We the three latter rode on in advance, chatting & singing. It began to rain when we got to Clunas Well & continued till our arrival at home. We called at Cawdor Castle. Saw W Stables & had some conversation with him about the botany of his neighbourhood. Got home about n, thoroughly drenched as were most of the party. Accompanied Maryanne & M. S. to Ardersier gate. On Tuesday called on the ladies at A. & found them quite refreshed, not at all the worse for their journey. Spent my time till the following (blank in manuscript) very agreeably at Campbelton. Set out on that day for Aberdeen by coach. It rained incessantly. Went next day to Edinr. by coach & on Wednesday got to Glasgow. Very busy packing &c till Tuesday the 14th Septr we came to Edinr. & took steam to London. Had a pleasant passage. Arrived at my Uncle's in Great Coran St. on Friday afternoon where I took up my abode. Called at H.B.H., saw Mr. Smith. On Saturday delivered some of Dr H's letters of introduction. Dined at a chop-house with Dr G—On Sunday—At Church in the forenoon with my cousins. Went to Regents Park in the afternoon, crowds of carriages & vehicles of all descriptions driving about. Met at dinner at my Uncle's John Fraser (parson )he is a clerk in a mercantile ho. in London—seems affected. On Monday called on Dr. Wallich, saw Mr Royle's collection of plants from Cashmere. On Tuesday horticultural Gardens. Wednesday. H. B. H. Contracts signed &c. Thursday—miscellaneous business— Friday—Do. Dined with Mr Garry. Saw Dr Richardson & Captn. Back of Franklins expedition—he is a very amusing person. Mr G was very kind. Got home at 12. Wrote Uncle J. [28] Voyage Out 1832-1833 [Editor's Note—At this point the diary returns to the year 1832 and begins with an entry which is the first to indicate the beginning of the voyage to Fort Vancouver.] Saturday, September 15, 1832: Came by steam today from London to Gravesend. Embarked on the Ganymede at izVi P.M. Moved a few miles down the River in the evening—day very fine, Dr Richardson of Chatham accompanied us to Gravesend. He recommended me in packing birdskins to moisten the paper in which they are put with Oil: Terebinth which preserves them from insects. The Doctor seems of a bold & energetic character, but does not possess much suavity of manner. He is of middle size, broad chested strong limbed, well adapted in this respect for a traveller, appears to be about 45 years of age. Sunday, September 16: Slept comfortably lastnight. Have been engaged all day in writing to my friends. Wrote my father & Alick long letters, Mr. Smith authorising him to pay Trenthil & Wurtis Acct. & also Jones & Brown's for paper to be sent me next Septr. Monday, September 17: Got up this morning at 8. Examined the firearms. Found that I had been charged about 70 pet. profit on the caps and fear that all the articles have been overcharged, looked over the Medicine Chest. Read part of the introduction to Guthries Geography—the wind being foul N.W. have been lying off Deal all day, where we arrived at 10 last night. The beach from the town for about two miles down as far as can be seen is very smooth & gravelly—superior even to the capital one at Campbelton, Ft George. The Coast of France can be seen but not distinctly. G. [Gairdner] & I went out in the jolly boat to have a row, were carried adrift by the tide & had a hard pull to return to the Ship. My hands are severely blistered. Tuesday, September 18: Still lying off Deal. Wind unfavorable. Got up at 8. After breakfast assisted Gairdner in taking to pieces his barometer &c. which occupied a considerable time. Have been reading Polynesian Researches by Ellis—An Account of the Sandwich Isles & the progress of the [ 29 . Missionaries there, got to the Vth Chap: p. 102. At 5 P.M. the wind shifted to N.E. we hove the anchor immediately & set sail—& have now got considerably beyond Dover. About 6, the Georgina of London bound for Van Dieman's Land [a penal colony, later Tasmania] passed us. She had on board several military men the last I shall probably see for some years—soon after the Sir Thomas Munro for NS Wales. She carried a good many passengers & is a beautiful vessel—"a very engaging ship" as the Captain said. It was almost dark when we passed Dover which I regret, having wished to see the castle. Have been teazed with heartburn since coming on board. Tried my pistols today & like them, had a shot out of Gardner's Rifle, came pretty near the mark. Wednesday, September 19: Felt the ship's motion a good deal in bed this morning. Got up at Vz past 7—rather squeamish. About 9, came in sight of the Isle of Wight. After breakfast the nausea increased & was relieved about 1 by vomiting. What a disagreeable & unfavorable view one takes of things while in this state. The mind sympathizes with the stomach & all the reflexions are of a gloomy cast. Compared my thermometers with G's which have been rectified at the Royal Society's & found them to agree exactly. Suspended one of them in the cabin staircase & propose henceforth to make observations at least thrice a day on the thermometer & barometer. Have got today to the 285th page of the Polynesian Researches, & finished the account of the volcano at Kirena which must be a grand & magnificent sight. Thursday, September 20: Up at 8 today. Morning fine, light breeze from S. E. Land seen dimly Boldhead—Opened one of my chests & was engaged for nearly three hours in arranging—in chest No 1 are my surgical instruments, towels, several blankets, arsenical paste, stout shoes, beads &c plaid— Got to page 376 of Polynesian Researches—the Ladies made their first appearance on deck today. Did not see them. Practised on the flute for half an hour. Have been thinking today what a debt of gratitude I owe to Mr. Murray of the B.G.G. & how wrong it was of me not to send his letters, if I could not myself deliver them. Heard from the Mate today sad accounts of the treacherous & cruel disposition of the Indians about Columbia River. They do not tally with those deld. by Dr. Scouler—"In medias tutissimus ibis". Threw out a line for Mackerel this afternoon but without success— several shoals of them were seen near the vessel—have been sailing at a very slow rate today now near the Lizard, 20 miles off it capt says—henceforth when the conversation at dinner is at all interesting, instructive or amusing shall put down in my journal what I remember of it. Friday, September 21: Got up at 8. Have been sea sick all day—& hence made no meteorological observations. Have now got fairly into the ocean, [ 30 I the foam crested billows of which have an imposing appearance compared to the pigmies we had hitherto seen. I have had a rum scene this evg.—the steward who had been guzzling brown stout all day & became "tosticated" was seized with colic & Kicked up a splutter. We got him bled, adminstered an emetic & applied a sinapism & he is now cascading at a great rate. Caught a small bird in the rigging this evening which shall examine tomorrow by Cuvier. Saturday, September 22: N. Lat: 47.21—Long: 8.28 at 10 A.M. Lay in bed till 10 today & have been sick all day. G. thinks the bird found yesterday to be the Sitta Europea. Saw several porpoises swimming with great speed close to the ship today. Have been thinking about Glasgow & Campbelton i.e. my friends there—A.H.—&c. Must begin on Monday the study of German—The Steward is getting better. No meteorological observations today. Sunday, September 23: N. Lat: 46.38 W. Long: 10.30 by dead reckoning. Morning service of the Church of England read today by G. I read the appropriate lessons from the Bible. The crew were all mustered on the quarter deck clean and well put on—they seemed with one exception attentive. The service is to be read every sabbath, weather permitting, & I hope we may all benefit by it. Committed to memory the fourth Psalm, I recollect my mother's reading or teaching it to Alick & myself 14 or 15 years ago. Have read several papers in the Spectator. Was particularly pleased with 111 on the Immortality of the soul. The arguments adduced by the author establishing this point are all very excellent, but I was forcibly struck with that one drawn from the perpetual progress of the soul to perfection without its ever arriving at it. His remarks on this very beautiful—indeed the contemplation of it tends to exalt & improve the mind. Like all the religious papers in the Spectator they seem to be written in a spirit of pure piety, free from fanaticism or gloom which throw a forbidding aspect on religion. I hope that I may be enabled to spend all my Sundays henceforth more & more according to the Almighty's will, & that he will give me grace to put in practice all my good resolutions; for the sake of Christ Jesus. Saw this afternoon a great number of porpoises about 300 yards from the ship they followed each other in regular rank & file, leaping out of the water for about twice their own length. Monday, September 24: This forenoon engaged till 12 in arranging my papers & writing desk, from 12 till Vz past 1 in studying the German Gram- mer, from 3 till five in reading the Arabian Nights in French, five till six practising on the flute—Vz past six till Vz past 9, now reading in Hope on diseases of the heart or Aneurism of the Aorta & hypertrophy of the heart— [31 he approves of Vulsalor's mode of treatment in the former, & makes one or two alterations or modifications in it I think for the better—but condemns it in the latter from his experience of its ultimate failure altho' attended with temporary benefit. Still troubled with heartburn. Saw a brig today at some distance, she displayed the Dutch Colours—seemed much weather beaten. Tuesday, September 25: N. Lat: 44.44—W. Long: 12—Foggy till midday. Sunsh. afternoon Wind S.E. Light breeze—After breakfast read till nearly 12. Watts on the Mind—German till 2 P.M. mastered the alphabet vowels & consonants & attempted with G's assistance to read a passage— Arabian Nights till six—altho' I understand the idiom of the French, I have pretty frequently to apply to the dictionary for a word—Since six engaged with Lisiansky's voyage. Finished Polynesian researches on Saturday last. Saw today a few of Mother Cary's chickens—Procellaria pelagica—flying past—their appearance said by sailors to forbode a storm. The Captain has been expecting a gale since Sunday night as his elbows have felt itchy! Heartburn continues—took some magnesia & rhubarb with temporary alleviation—our progress today has been rather slow—2 knots an hour at one time. This is tiresome but the weather is so delightful as in some measure to compensate for it & make it even at times agreeable. Wednesday, September 26: N. Lat: 43.39—W. Long: 13.22—Have today felt in an inactive mood probably from our slow progress. After breakfast mended a pair of trowsers, looked over Ingram's Mathematics till 12. Did almost nothing at German. Read the Arabian Nights till tea time. In perusing them from recollecting many of the incidents my thoughts wander to the period when I formerly read them and reminiscences of a mixed nature are called up—the work was then got from the Campbelton Circulating Library—Then ( 1821 I suppose) in the vigour of youth, but now alas defunct, and after getting my lesson for old Pompey I well remember with what pleasure I used to devour it & Hogg's Winter Evening Tales—Margaret Tolmie Balspardan was on a visit at Mrs. Tulloh's at that time—she was a good natured sensible person fond of novel reading &c—Were hailed this morning before breakfast by a schooner bound for Cadiz with a cargo of fish from Newfoundl: gave them some potatoes in exchange for fish. I had some conversation this evening with the ladies about the Sandwich Isles. Read two short papers in the Athenaeum on the same subject giving a description of his Majesty Kia Keonli; his court, the chief women are of colossal dimensions —& missionaries have obtained great sway in these islands & from all accounts seem to be the real rulers. Thursday, September 27: N. Lat: 42.58—W. Long: 14.15. Chiefly occupied today in drying plant paper which had been soaked with water [32] while lying under my bed. Studied the German Grammar for about an hour on Substantives. Read in Arabian Nights the story of the Jollifications of the three young ladies in Bagdad with the witty porter at which the Calenders and the Caliph Haroun El Raschid were present. Since six have been perusing in Lisiansky Voyage round the World an account of the Marquesean Islands & also of the Sandwich that of the latter is of course very meagre compared to Ellis's but agrees with it in every particular of importance. The setting of the sun was very splendid, while the sky overhead was concealed by an unbroken mass of dark gray cloud in the western horizon it beamed with a rich golden yellow light and on each side of the "orb of day" the broken clouds presented the most grotesque shapes & gorgeous colours dazzling to the eye of the beholder. Friday, September 28: N.L: 42.57. W.L.: 14.39. Observed tonight that the Mercury fell 3 ° on taking the Thermometer out of the jug of water, this being occasioned by the vaporization of the water remaining on the bulb. I shall observe it more particularly in future. Did a little at Algebra this morning. No German nor French. Occupied till 11 with plant paper, getting my hair cropped &c. Till Vz past one Arithmetic—& from after dinner till six shooting at Mother Cary's Chickens & talking with the ladies—the motion of the ship being great which added to my want of practice as a marksman will account for my not killing any—Mrs. Taylor informed me that the dogs at the Sandwich Isles resemble much the fox in appearance & disposition, being incorrigible henroost & sheepfold robbers—their flesh is esteemed by natives as superior to pork. Have gone on with Lisiansky's Voyage—he gives a minute description of the island of Cadiack the inhabitants of which—altho' displaying ingenuity in the construction of their bidarkas or boats are in other respects but a shade removed in point of civilization from the beasts of the field. They perform V.S. by transfixing the vein with a pin then running a copper lancet along the pin which serves as a director—for savages they possess less than usual the skill of procuring game, but in navigating their bidarkas, are very expert. In domestic matters very filthy, obeying the calls of nature on the spot when they are made. They preserve birdskins with urine—as our sailors have been growling about their provisions today the matter became subject of conversation at dinner. The following is a list of their Weekly Allowance Beef iVz lbs daily 3 days Pork \V* lbs daily 4 days Bread 1 lb. — — — Flour 3A lbs on beef days Pease 1 Pint on pork days [33] J Suet lA lb on beef days Molasses Va gill daily Rum i gill daily Vinegar XA gill weekly Tea Vt oz daily Mustard 3A oz weekly Saturday, September 29: N. Lat: 40.58—W. Long: 14.59—Have been scudding along today at the rate of 4^ & 5 knots, a good deal tossed. Have been rather squeamish. Worked some questions in Algebra today & leam't the substantives of the first declension in the G. Grammer. Have not read much. Sunday, September 30: Read the Church of England Morning service to the crew assembled on the Quarter deck this forenoon. G. afterwards read part of one of Blair's Sermons on Regularity & Method in worldly as well as spiritual affairs. Committed to memory part of the first hymn, which I recollect as getting as a task from A. McK. many years ago. Have read the 23rd & 24 chapters of 11 Samuel & 1 & 2 of Kings—David's advice to his son Solomon on making him king is conveyed in beautiful sublime language —also read Watt's article on "Enlarging the capacity of the mind" his injunctions are very excellent. I must read the paper again as I stand much in need of advice on that subject. As I am now finishing this book, I look back to the time when I commenced it & what a host of reflections it gives rise to—how grossly my time has been mispent & how grateful I ought to be to God for his manifold kindnesses to me since that time—this time last year I was stretched on the bed of sickness & then how many vows of amendment did I make & how have they been kept—I was then attended by Mrs. T. who in that acted a kind part and now we are both on the wide ocean. On reviewing my actions for the past week— I find I have been very remiss in my study and unless I apply more diligently the valuable opportunity I now have of acquiring knowledge will not I fear be improved so much as it is both my duty and advantage that it should be—what I most want is perseverance & the power of fixing my attention to subject in hand instd. of getting into reveries. Monday, October 1: N. Lat: 37.2. W. Long: 14.10. Unpacked the plants this morning which were by accident soaked in water last week and found them in a better state of preservation than I had expected. Made but little progress at algebra. Revised in the G. Grammar the article on the formation & gender of substantives. Finished Lisiansky's Voyage—in his account of Canton & the Chinese he mentions that furs are brought there chiefly by the Americans who sometimes glut the market—foreigners trading there are [34: quite at the mercy of the Mandarins—by whom they may expect to be fleeced —the number of paupers is immense at Canton—this is the case throughout the Empire hence the number of pirates that infest the Chinese Sea. The Chinese could muster two millions fighting men but being undisciplined—& their artillery &c. of the most antiquated description they would be unable to cope with an European army of a much smaller amount—their fleets also are as far behind. Tuesday, October 2: N. Lat: 35.11. W. L.: 15.47. Last night after writing my journal got my difficulties explained & afterwards wrought several questions in Algebra. Made a dead halt today from not understanding how to extract the Cube & sq. root, which I must learn tomorrow. Wrote the exercises after the first, learn't the second declension, & wrote its exercises, which I read to G. who corrected them in G. Grammar. When free from sea sickness, which at times affects me, I never feel that tedium so much complained of in a long voyage—on the contrary my time was never spent more pleasantly nor more profitably— one occupation succeeds another and every hour has its appointed task. I have now an admirable opportunity for self improvement & I trust that I shall continue to take advantage of it. Have been reading tonight in Sept. Blackwood on Diary of a late Physician—the tale is a sad one & is told in the same beautiful and pathetic manner as those I formerly saw. Wednesday, October 3: Came in sight of Porto Santo at 9 o'cl. this morning and soon after the lofty mountains of Madeira became indistinctly visible —during the day the NWern side was clearly seen; very steep & rugged— sloping slightly towards the S. where it terminates in a bluff headland—at 6 P.M. we were off Port Tristram about 5 or 6 leagues. Have been reading this afternoon in Maltebrun's Geography an account of these Islands. Madeira belongs to the Portuguese, but is garrisoned by the British. Its population is 80 thousand. Wine is the chief export of which 2,500 tuns are annually sent to Britain, India & the West Indies & also a considerable quantity of an inferior quality to the U.S. of America—the best kind of wine is called Malmsey or Malvoisie, the inferior—Madeira. The chief town Funchal is situated on the E. side of the island—its only wealthy inhabitants are the British residents. The common people are very poor & the middling classes have all the indolence of the Portuguese. The roadstead at Funchal is not tenable in winter. The vineyards are watered & the country beautified by numerous small rivers flowing from the mountains, the highest of which latter is about 6600. Porto Santo is a small mountainous islet abruptly rising out of the ocean—it contains about 200 inhabitants. Made no progress at Algebra. Learn't the 3rd & 4th declensions in the G. Grammar. Began to 35 r read this evening Maltebrun's Geography ist Vol:. Finished today the life of Wilson the American Ornithologist which I had commenced on my passage from Leith to London. I admire W's character much—by his indomitable perseverance he overcame the most formidable difficulties with very slender means—he was a steady friend, a dutiful son & his poetical effusions entitle him to rank high among the sons of song. His description of the Pro- cellaria Pelagica I read today with great interest. The ship rolls most confoundedly—9V2 P.M. Thursday, October 4: Incommoded today by the heat of the weather which occasioned a degree of lassitude and indolence. Engaged till 11 in rummaging—got out my surgical and mathematical Instrum. and disposed my things to better advantage. At 11 a number of porpoises were sporting about the vessel—one of the sailors darted a harpoon at them as they crossed the ship's bow—it struck a large one on the back but being blunt, did not penetrate—saw them soon at some distance, leaping out of the water—but they did reapproach the vessel—the sea was very calm & it was a pretty sight to behold gliding through the water close to us. Learn't the fifth declension in the G. Grammar, Finished this evening the ist Vol of the Arabian Nights. After dinner a few stormy petrels came about us. I threw some pieces of tallow overboard which they picked up. Fired at one but missed. The western horizon at sunset presented a very beautiful and to me novel experience indicative of our approach to a tropical clime. Friday, October 5: N. Lat: 31.56. W. Long: 17.69. Nearly a dead calm all day. Sunshine—fine eve. At 8 a turtle was seen floating near us— it was caught by two of men going out in the boat—on being examined it proved to be the testudo Carretta—the carapace consisted of 15 central pieces of a deep reddish brown colour No 101 (Syme) of different sizes, the largest in the centre—27 marginal pieces the same colour where they joined—they joined the central but becoming lighter and verging to yellow at the inferior part where they became continuous with the Plastron—posterior 3rd of Carapace having the outer membrane destroyed by the Anatifa vulgaris who adhered to it in great numbers. Plastron composed of 18 pieces differing in size & of a straw yellow colour. Length of body when neck is elongated—16 in.—of retractile part of neck—2.1 in. Breadth of carapace 10 in.—of head at occiput 2.5. Length of an: foot from carpus to end of fin—7.2 in. from carpus to articulation with trunk 3.5 Length of post: extremity metac: to end of fin 4.5 metac: to artic: with trunk—length of plastron 8 in. Temp, of body at posterior fin 78° with fold of skin. About 12 respirations in m while lying on deck—while in a tub of salt water 36 respiration for 10 minutes: 14—ist min: 2. 2r, 3rd & 4th ea, i-5th, 2, 6 to 9 ea 1, 10th 2. nth 1. Saturday, October 6: N. Lat: 30.24. Long: 18. Got up at half past 5— at six the turtle was beheaded by the steward—about 1 o oz. of scarlet colored blood flowed from the cut vessels—a thermometer held in it when flowing stood at 71-30—it felt cold to the finger—the turtle struggled considerably after decapitation—the mandibles opened and shut & grasped firmly any substance put between them and the respiratory muscles of the throat were frequently thrown into action—the pupils contracted readily for five minutes, more slowly afterwards. Took out the brains & one of the eyes which have been put in spirits. Cleaned the muscles of the trachea, but have not examined them yet. After breakfast, the Carapace was cut away & the viscera taken out en masse. G & I examined them carefully—the following is an account of our observation. Brain to come first wt. 25 gr. Respiratory System: Rings of trachea entire—Lungs composed of an aggregation of minute granules of a reddish color, buoyant in water & not divided into lobes. Circulatory System: Ventricle of heart of a triangular shape, composed of a single cavity without any appearance of septum studded with numerous fleshy columns—from the middle of its base is given off: ist, an artery which almost immediately separates into three great trunks. 2nd, a single artery. 3rd, an artery immediately bifurcating, so that the united section at about 1/3 in. distance from the heart presents five large open mouths—fleshy part of auricles quite detached from ventricle to which they are attached solely by a semi-cartilaginous tube—wt. of heart gr. 104. Aorta as it passes down between lungs consisting of two principal trunks which reunite about the middle of these viscera & from the point of union there are given off three large trunks directed downwards & one smaller running upwards. The central of the three trunks after proceeding for a short way bifurcated, one branch going to Pancreas, the other to Spleen. Another of them seemed to be for the supply of the intestines but being cut across we could not be certain—the third appeared to be the trunk of Aorta. Digestive organs: Esophagus in length 6 in.—parietis thick—mucous membr. thick & beset with numerous spines directed downwards, increasing in size towards cardiac orifice where they are about 7/10 in. in length and 2/10 in. in diameter—a transverse section at their base presents a semicartilaginous homogeneous tissue inclosed within a membranous capsule, formed by a prolongation of the common mucous membrane — towards apex membrane assumes a more horny consistence & terminates in a sharp spine—they resemble very closely in miniature the spur of a cock about two years old. Stomach of an elongated form—length 6 in: broadest at middle of length, where it amounts to 18/10 externally—externally numerous strong trans- [37: verse fibres visible through peritoneal coat. Contents a transparent gelatinous mass mixed with broken fragments of shells of serpylla, small nautili & anatifae, and a small shell resembling a young Janthina, a cup-shaped Medusa containing a purple serriferous animal resembling an anatifa. M. Membrane of cardiac orifice of stomach, beset with small elongated bodies resembling in form the spines of Esophagus, but smaller & of a soft consistence. Membr: of Cardiac extremity thrown into large longitudinal folds—rest of surface smooth. Pancreas closely adhering to about 6 superior in: of mesenteric aspect of duodenum—length of intestines from pylorus to anus 9 feet 6 in. Liver composed of two lobes—the right entire & about thrice the size of left—left deeply divided into two lobules—lobes connected together by two transverse bands of parenchymatous tissue—weight 4 oz. Gallbladder situated under right lobe & half imbedded in its substance opening into duodenum about $Vz in. from pylorus—filled with thin & limpid bile of a grass green color. Small Intestine—Mucous M. straw colored thick & puffy & surface of a granular appearance above, about middle of intestine disposed in longitudinal slightly elevated ruga—parietes thinner by one third than above muscular thick, composed solely of longitudinal fibres. At apparent commencement of large Intestine are numerous rounded solitary glandular-looking bodies, but no trace of ceacal enlargement, valve or vermiform process. Large intestine filled with a fetid grumous greenish & purple matter intermixed with fragments of shells of Serpylla, two bones of young Lolligo & a portion of feather parietes much thinner than those of small, quite destitute of transverse bands—urinary bladder about size of pullet's egg—opening into rectum iVz in. above rectum. Wt. of lort: 7 lb. 9 oz. Occupied almost all day in making these observations. Have read Cuvier on the brain & Nervous System of reptiles. As has been our custom every Saturday, we tonight drank the health of our friends at home for the third time. Sunday, October 7: N. Lat: 30.35. W. Long: 18.24 by acco- Had no prayers read today, why I know not. Read in the forenoon Watts on the Mind—on Conversation—on fixing the attention & on scholastic disputation —marked several passages which struck me particularly at the time. After dinner—in the Spectator the 6, first papers on the Pleasures of the imaginations—the author Addison first defines them to arise solely from visible objects & then divides them into primary; those arising from objects before eyes & secondary: those from ideas of objects not before us, but called up in our memories, or formed into agreeable visions of things absent, or fictitious—& then, points out the different sources of these pleasures & treats of them separately. Since six o'clock ist Samuel—David's sublime lament on death of Saul & Jonathan is couched in simple & touching language—I should like [38: much to read the commentaries of some of our great divines on their history- many of the passages in the old testament are admitted as far superior in sublimity & grandeur to any of the heathen writings. Monday, October 8: N. Lat: 29.3. W. Long: 19.25. Engaged with Geometry till Vz past 11 today. Read Maltebrun from then till 2—on the experiments with the pendulum showing the force of gravity to be greater towards the Poles than at the equator—owing to the globes being flattened at the Poles—on the degree of depression and the means used to ascertain it —On Latitude & Longitude & the form & construction of the Terrestrial Globe. Think it better to study Geometry & Geography together & shall continue to read Maltebrun during the day. After dinner—at German for an hour & half. Commenced the adjectives. Have resolved to give a couple of hours daily henceforth to the perusal of medical works for it is a duty most incumbent on me to increase my professional knowledge whatever else I neglect. Began Abernethy's lectures tonight & got through the first. He ascribes to Hunter the merit of having first properly treated of the Sympathetic Inflammatory fever following severe injuries. A. says its symptoms are exactly similar to those of the Synocha of Cullen—in the treatment the first thing is to restore the secretions—bleeding, unless in extreme cases, he condemns, as the process of recovery is tedious & requires the patient's strength to be supported by every means possible—opium, as in Synochus, is improper—in the Hectic which attends severe injuries when it has reduced the patient much & there is no prospect of amendment—he advizes amputation, as the debility is often more apparent than real & after the operation all untoward symptoms vanish—he gives a case in point. I have seen many patients rescued from the jaws of death by Amputation in scrofulous affections of the joints—in compound fractures, it is often a very difficult matter to decide on the propriety of secondary amputation—much more so than in diseases of the joints. Was shown some Russian coins by the Ladies—the silver ones are pretty. A Koupeck is the smallest copper coin. A Ruble the largest silver one. Four copper are equal to one silver Koupeck—100 copper equal to a Ruble which amounts to iod or toVz English money. Paper Currency begins with five ruble notes. A ship has been in sight today at a great distance from us—she is pursuing the same course. The Goat which supplied the ladies with milk reed, a comminuted fracture of the Thigh—the Captain applied "splints" which he made fast to the opposite side of pelvis. Tuesday, October 9: N. Lat: 27.29—W. Long: 20.10. Busy till Vz past 12 with my luggage, filled the portmanteau with shirts, stockgs &c. Removed most of the books that I shall require to leather trunk & put clothes into Chest No. 1. Read Maltebrun till Vz past 1, but was rather inattentive. [39l f Studied the adjectives in G. Grammar. Have got to lecture V in Abernethy and am now (8V2 P.M.) going to read the conclusion of the interesting story of Bedreddin Hassan in Arabian Nights. Wednesday, October 10: N Lat: 26.24. W Long: 20-42. At Geometry today from 1 o till 11 Vz —stand in need of revising my arithmetic but unfortunately have no book—having got in Maltebrun to where he treats of the Theory & different projections of Geographical Maps—was unable to comprehend many parts from my scanty knowledge of Mathematics—thought it best therefore to go on to book VII, the commencement of Physical Geography, but shall return to book IV where I left off when I have better qualified myself for understanding the subject. Have perused Abernethy on Chronic Inflammation, Chronic Abscess—Tumors— & Lumbar Abscess. In speaking of the counter-irritating plan of treatment for chronic swellings, I am surprised at his not mentioning the prep: of Iodine—he thinks leeching of little use—from my own experience am inclined to the same opinion. He divides tumors into sarcomatous and encysted & mentions 8 species of the former—his definition of a tumor is "the swelling of parts that had no existence in the original compages of the body". On lumbar abscess he is full. Have not come to the conclusion of his remarks. A small flying fish the Exocoetus volitans was found on deck this morning—its dimensions were taken by G. [Dimensions in extensive detail are here omitted.] Thursday, October n: N Lat: 24.42. Long: 21.27. Read in Cuvier this morning the introductory article on Fishes. Saw G. dissect the Flying Fish, but did not take notes. At Geometry till 12. Till 2 perusing Maltebrun on the physical characters of the Globe—definitions of Geographical terms— looked over Weddels Chart of the New South Shetland group of Islands in the Pacific Ocean discovered by Smith in 1818 surveyed by Weddel in 1823. Weddell got as far south as 73°-i5' about 20 farther than Cook. At German for an hour. Read Abernethy till 8. On most subjects he merely gives a detail of the leading symptoms and then his own views as to the treatment. I like this plan better than if he gave a long account of what others have said & done, which many do from a paucity of original matter. His lectures on Ulcers are very valuable—he adopts Sir E. Home's division of them into Irritable, indolent & those which manifest some morbid peculiarity—for example Varicose Ulcers—the leading principle in the treatment is to sooth the irritable & stimulate gently the indolent with that strict attention to the digestive organs which he enjoins so forcibly in all diseases. He approves highly of Baynton's plan viz Straps & bandaging, first applying to the surface of the sore a piece of lint dip't in aqueous solution of opium, or smeared over with spermaceti ointment—at the Glasgow infirmary this practice is adopted but [40 . without the interposition of the lint which I am persuaded would be useful from its giving greater protection to the granulations. I shall try it the first opportunity. He supposes Tic doloureux to arise from the reciprocal actions of disorder in the Nervous & Digestive Systems—& is averse to a division of the affected nerve. Friday, October 12: N Lat: 22.52. W Long: 22.23. Since Sunday— N.L. 30.35—have been wafted along by the trade winds & have now got within the tropics & the cool breeze from E.N.E. is delightfully refreshing. Numbers of flying fish seen today. I observed about 30 of them in a flock skimming the surface of the billows—they flew, I suppose, about 40 yards. Copied into my Atlas from Maltebrun his classification of seas & a computation of the proportion of land to the whole surface in the different Zones and in each hemisphere—the N. Hemisphere has 0.419—the proportion of land in the Southern is o. 129. According to M. if by measurements made in New Holland, & America similar to M. Le Caillis in Africa it were proved that the degree of flattening of the globe is greater towards the S. than the N. Pole—we might account for the disproportion of land by the tendency the waters of the ocean have, to preserve the equilibrium on the earth's surface, hence accumulating in greater quantity towards the South. Have read Abernethy on Adema. He has seen Phlegmasia dolens arising from infl. of absorbents without any affection of veins—on Scrofula & cutaneous diseases he dwells briefly. Like his lecture on fractures—where cartilaginous union has taken place instead of rasping the ends of the bone, or passing a seton, he recommends the putting up of the limb in splints for a considerable time (longer than is usual) & during that period strict attention to bowels & the use of a generous diet—he gives two such useful cases in one of which amputation had been decided on at consultation. Saturday, October 13: N Lat: 21.10. Long: 23.24. Till n while the steward was scrubbing the cabin, sat on deck with the Ladies—they have seen Captain Finch of the U.S. Navy with whom I travelled in Aug. from Fochabers to Aberdeen, at the Sandwich Isles. Read Maltebrun on the internal structure of the Globe—in Abernethy an excellent article on compound fracture. Have been in a musical mood today and cannot give a good account of my reading. In order to improve my knowledge shall henceforth note the colour of the sea daily. At dinner today the conversation ran on wines— Burgandy is in most general use in France & sells for five sous a bottle, in Germany Rhenish wine, it costs about nd of English money. Have now been 28 days on shipboard, 25 at sea. Sunday, October 14: N Lat: 19.46. W. Long: 24.24. At 10 today G. commenced reading prayers. I afterwards read to the crew one of the 41] Church of England homilies—"on the importance of scriptural reading"— the matter was good and the style very quaint and pithy. From 11 till z, perusing Watt on Study & Meditation, on reading & the Judgement of books —both very instructive articles—shall according to his advice, peruse them a second time. Have read over again today the V first papers on the pleasures of the Imagination. In the VI the author concludes his first division of the subject. Think his remarks on the English style of Gardening just, but the extent of ground allotted to gardens is generally so small as to render imitations of nature (such as rocks &c) contemptible from being on so diminutive a scale. Found in No. 453 the Hymn placed first among those in the Bible, it is written I think by Addison and is well worthy of his pen—it is accompanied by an essay on Gratitude. Monday, October 15: N Lat: 17.56. W Long: 25.20. Great numbers of flying fish seen at 4 P.M.—the island of St. Anthony one of the Cape de Verd group seen bearing S.S.E., distant about 7 leagues—the horizon being hazy, could only [sentence not completed] the island is mountainous rising to a great height above the level of the sea. Said to equal Peak of Teneriffe—11424 ft. Maltebrun. Am getting on pretty well with Geometry, considering that I have no assistance, G. being so much occupied that I am unwilling to trouble him. Read in Maltebrun an enumeration and description of the substances composing the crust of the globe—as the subject is new to me & difficult it must have a second perusal. Abernethy on Syphilis—he gives the clearest explanation I have seen of the different effects of Mercury on the body according to the quantity given—blue pill in single doses—merely produces effects on the digestive organs—it acts on the nervous system with a specific effect counteracting the morbid irritation existing in certain states of body, in this way it is exhibited in a great variety of diseases, but neither affects the vascular system nor does it at all debilitate, but on the contrary improves the general health—in the third manner of giving mercury that state of body of which ptyalism is a symptom is brought on—all the secretions are increased & finally great debility and emaciation ensue. By this plan syphilis is eradicated, but it exasperates many of the diseases—Pseudo Syphilis for example, which can be cured by an alternative course. The symptoms of Pseudo Syphilis are so similar to those of the Lues venereae as to deceive (I make no doubt) many practitioners—and this may in some degree account for the outcry that has of late been made about curing syphilis without mercury, or rather without salivation. A's lectures on the subject have given me much information and will make me chary in the use of M. to excite Ptyalism until its effects as an alternative have been proved. Acted today as sailor & bookbinder in a small way. The sea today has lost the greenish colour which it presented on Saturday and Sunday—can it have been produced by sea weed growing at the bottom—great quantities are seen floating at these latitudes at times altho' we have not met with any. The Cape Verd islands are 10 in number—population 42,000—exports indigo, cotton, fruits, salt, goatskins. Thermometer seldom falls below 80° & often rises above 90°.— general aspect of islands, bleak and mountainous, but the scenery in some of the vallies is described as very agreeable—inhabitants low in the scale of civilization, descend from Portuguese, to whom the group belongs. Tuesday, October 16: N Lat: 15.46. W Long: 25.38. Course now due south—colour of sea at 2 P.M. Ultramarine blue No. 29. Syme—a splendid sunset—baffling my descriptive powers. Worked several problems and learn't some of the trigonometrical definitions—find that Norie's Navigator will be of great assistance to me. Read in Maltebrun a brief, but interesting description of the metals. Abernethy on Gonorrhea & Strictures, on the former, having nothing original he says little—on the latter subject he gives a great deal of practical information. Am now reading the article a second time. Have determined to abandon the study of German for the present being engaged with Geometry, Geography and Medicine besides French every evening, all which are more immediately useful and to be properly studied, require all my attention—shall resume the German when more important avocations permit. Wednesday, October 17: Lat: 13.55. Long: 24.57. At 8 saw several flashes of sheet lightning following each in quick succession—they appeared towards the S. Had a very pleasant bath last night in a tub of salt water but for the rest of the night till bed time felt heavy and oppressed and today have been similarly affected with the addition of a slight head ache. After enduring the noonday heat, it is extremely agreeable to sit on deck in the evening, fanned by the refreshing sea breeze, and meditate on the immensity of space, reflect on the occurrences of the past day, or indulge in thoughts of home.Read Maltebrun on Petrifactions & Fossils—met with many facts & observations which shall note down during the second perusal. Finished A's lectures on diseases of the Urinary Organs—on stricture he is very full—before introducing a bougie for which some useful directions are given, all irritation must be allayed by taking tepid bath locally & mild aperients inty—the bougie must not be again passed until the irritation caused by its first introduction has subsided when a larger one may be tried—this method seems to me reasonable. I shall put it to the test, the first opportunity—he gives many striking cases in support of it—when it fails he employs a bougie, having inserted into its point a small portion of caustic potash as a stimulant, milder & therefore preferable to lunar caustic. [43] Thursday, October 18: Lat: 12.13. Long: 24.2. Colour of sea at 2 P.M. Indigo blue. Mg. dull & cloudy—at 10 the experienced eye of the C. saw a squall from the SW approaching & preparations were made to meet it —the sky was concealed by a dense curtain of clouds "as black as Erebus" which imparted their hue to the ocean, the wind blowing against the current which here sets towards the Gulf of Mexico, threw the surface of the waves up in white foam tossing & heaving about in every direction. Mother Cary's chickens were flitting about the ship in great numbers seemingly anxious to provide against the approaching storm. G. fired at one, the pistol burst, but without any accident—the squall blew away and did not prove so formidable as from the threatening aspect of the sky & sea was anticipated—it was succeeded by a very heavy plump of rain, continuing till nearly 12—the appearance of the heavens reminds me of the storm whose fury I braved on the hillside at Abersky, while searching for the Ajuga pyramidalis in the month of August—it was awfully solemn to hear alone on the hill the tremendous peals of thunder—the horizon in the west of a light grey while overhead, immense black clouds were tumbling rolling & moving to & fro as if the spirits of the storm were engaged in battle. I could have remained long admiring the grandeur of the scene, had not a few heavy drops of rain warned me of what was coming & no sooner had I got up than the shower of the hail the largest I ever saw covered the ground in a few minutes as with a white sheet & forced me to make a precipitate retreat to Abersky—the rest of my adventures on the eventful day are they not recorded in my journal kept while sojourning in the North of Scotland. Read Maltebrun on the waters of the earth, Abernethy a short article on Hydrophobia, containing nothing original & one on fractures & dislocations of the lower jaw of which the same can be said. Friday, October 19: N Lat: 11.2. W Long: 23.36. Almost incessant rain all day with occasionally a light breeze from NE. Last night from 8 till past 12—this morning the firmanent was illuminated by flashes of forked & sheet lightning of a most dazzling brightness, bursting forth in every direction except the North, occasionally preceded by sullen peals of distant thunder— a great number of the stars were at times visible but were again obscured by thick, masses of black cloud which rolled about, assuming very grotesque shapes—heavy rain commenced about 12 & has since continued with few intermissions. Begin to get fond of Geometry & hope in a week to be able to commence trigonometry. Read Maltebrun on the current of the ocean, Tides &c, Abernethy on fractures and dislocations, in reading on these subjects which I studied with considerable attention some months ago—I am sorry to find how treacherous my memory proves. Lent Mrs. Charlton—Lalla Rookh. [44] Am going to peruse a review of Hall's fragments of voyages—was much pleased in general with the passages from the work which I read on board the R. Adelaide now for the Reviewer's opinion of it. Saturday, October 20: N Lat: 10.18. W. Long: 23.1. Colour of the sea indigo blue. Read last night the review of Hall's work the second series, from the extract given; I like it even better than the first—it contains the Captain's adventures in his more advanced years—have copied his description of the life buoy, somewhat curtailed however. It consists of two hollow copper vessels connected together, each about as large as an ordinary sized pillow case, & is of buoyancy & capacity sufficient to support one man standing upon it—rope beckets are fitted to it by which several can support themselves. Between the two copper vessels there stands a hollow pole, or mast into which is inserted from below an iron rod loaded with lead which acts as ballast & slipping down when the buoy is let go affords footing for two persons. The buoy is fixed at the stern—it is furnished with a portfire calculated to burn 20' or Vz an hour, when the buoy is slipped, this is lighted by means of a gunlock charged with powder and at night, serves as a guide to the boat sent out in search. The Life buoy is the invention of Lieut. Cooke, it is to be found in most merchantmen & of course in all of his Majesty's & the E I Coys ships—we are not provided with it—today, being unable to sit in the cabin while the st: washed it out, & consequently interrupted in the study of Geometry, read in my berth the review of Mrs Trollope's book on the United States, she gives a deplorable account of the state of society, completely corroborating Hall's account, indeed she goes farther—they both went out Ultrawhigs & returned Tories, the want of an established church must be a great moral evil in America—the men generally according to Mrs. Trollope have little or no religion ie. outwardly & the women are led away frequently by their bigoted instructors at their camp meetings into acts of an absurd & even disgusting nature. The religious sects are innumerable—a spirit of gross insubordination was displayed by one of the men (Stokes) this evg towards the 2nd mate (Mr Heath) & on being reprimanded by the Captain retorted very insolently. About 8 while helmsman, he expressed regret for his behaviour to the C. but soon after went to the forecastle, where he continued for sometime drinking with his messmates & chanting some melodious ditty at the top of his voice—on returning to his post, he refused to give up the helm to the man who came to relieve him at 10. The C. and Mr. R. threatened to bind him hand & foot—he then left the helm & putting himself in a boxing attitude, dared them to do it, swearing "He'd have a rally with them first"—it was thought best not to meddle with him, he then wished to thrash the Steward, & the carpenter trying to dissuade him from this, got 45 knocked down for his pains by a blow on the mouth, the valiant cook coming to the assistance of his friend was also treated with a pelt, which caused a fight—the cook behaved manfully & gave Stokes some severe blows but was at length placed hors du combat by getting his lip torn by the ruffian's nail while under him—endeavours were made to put a stop to this disgraceful scene but as the sailors wished them to fight it out, they were not effectually separated, the ladies as might be expected were greatly alarmed. Sunday, October 21: N Lat: 9.38. W Long: 22.27. No prayers read today. Perused a second time several articles in Watt—they cannot be read too often, would that I could, with firmness practice the excellent precepts that he lays down. But it is perseverance I want. Committed to memory the fifth hymn in the bible, "the hour of my departure's come" &c & read several chap in Jeremiah in which are foretold the miseries awaiting the Israelites for their backslidings. This Sabbath has been spent less to my satisfaction than any since leaving England. Monday, October 22: N Lat: 8.47. W Long: 22.29. Inspected my firearms at n today—having previously revised some problems—Looked over Maltebrun on the Currents of the ocean & traced their course on the Map of the World. At Vz past one the stormy petrels flocked about us in greater number than hitherto—in this instance displaying their acute perceptions of a coming change in the weather—loaded my gun to have a shot at them but it being foul, would not go off—after dinner washed it out, & the second discharge shot one of the birds—the boy Clark leaped into the water, swam out & brought it in his mouth, it is much injured about the head, but will still do to preserve, in case a better specimen cannot be obtained. Took a note of its dimensions and external appearances but as it requires correction shall not insert it tonight. Last night at uVz G., R. & I explored the Steward's pantry & found it in a state of abomination—dirty cloths, pieces of beef, lumps of candle grease, cheese and mouldy pickles all jumbled together "in the most admired disorder". Finding reform necessary, we today complained to the Captain who I hope will not permit things to return to this disgusting state. 23rd 9 A.M. Procellaria Pelagica shot yesterday. [Dimensions in detail are here omitted.] Did not examine the intestines which I now regret much but it did not occur to me in the forenoon. Tuesday, October 23: SVz P.M.—N Lat: 8.31. W Long: 21.20. Rose at Vz past six this morning & went on deck to finish my examination of the bird, the squall coming on suddenly—my pocket book fell through the washboard ( a part of the Bulwark left open) into the sea. Its intrinsic value was very trifling, but it contained my cash account since April, a list of my 46] foul linen & the observations made on the petrel written on asses' skin, the loss of which I rather regret, as more cannot be procured. What with the squall & G's making drawings of the bird, did not finish operations on it till 12.—the description agrees almost entirely with Wilson's—but the dimensions are larger than those given by him, which are the average in the 13 birds—great numbers of porpoises seen this afternoon. Stokes the self elected harpooner darted his weapon several times without success. Read a few pages in Maltebrun on the atmosphere. In Abernethy—on Compound dislocation of the ancle joint in which he advises that a chance should always be given of retaining the limb—& says that in the course of his practice, he has only met with one unsuccessful case. I recollect 3 cases in the G. R. I. in two secondary amputation was found necessary—the third, a woman of 70 died —there may be a superiority in A's treatment, he having closed the wound accurately, applied adhesive plaster, which he varnished over, so as to exclude the air completely & then bandaged. Cold lotion was sedulously applied & absolute rest enjoined—the varnish used is a solution of sealing wax in Alcohol. Saw a splendid meteor tonight at 8 to windward—it shot with great velocity from 70° above the horizon to 20°—when it broke into numerous brilliant fragments, thought it like a sky rocket, but larger—immediately after saw a shooting star & to leeward one or two flashes of sheet lightning. Wednesday, October 24: N Lat: 7.58. W Long: 20.30. At Geometry for a couple of hours & read a little in Maltebrun, on the Atmosphere—But was frequently interrupted. Have been followed today by sharks, who having twice carried away the hook baited for dolphin, at length had a large iron hook baited with pork, thrown over to them, one of them after reconnoitring for a short time, bolted it & was securely fixed, he was hauled up to the surface, when a becket of rope was slipped over him behind the pectoral fin— by which he was got on board & immediately towed by about a dozen hands from the binnacle to the main deck, where his formidable tail was chopped off & his belly ripped up in a trice while suspended in the air, he struggled violently, twisting about & lashing the sides of the ship with his tail—on cutting him up, the stomach, a viscus of immense size, was found distended with huge lumps of cuttle fish to appearance recently swallowed, the heart, brain & eye have been laid aside for future examination—have kept specimens of the skin—the sailors cut off all the tidbits & threw the debris overboard without loss of time as they smelt disagreeably. The animal was 7 or 8 feet long—its skin externally of a beautiful shagreen colour—pearl white on the belly & lower parts—Could not get a minute examination of the character as the cutting up process being dispatched with great speed, but the species is the Squalus glaucus of Linnaeus—it possessed two complete rows of teeth [47: pointed & notched at the sides the largest nearly an inch long—male gender —it belongs to the viii. division of fishes—the Chordropterygiens avec branchies fixes—Genus Requin of Cuvier—a swallow was caught tonight, which shall be examined tomorrow. Great numbers of porpoises seen at different periods today. Have been reading Cuvier sur les Poissons tonight & shall continue the subject. Thursday, October 25: N Lat: 7.35. W Long: 20.21. Got up this morning at 7. Read in Cuvier the introductory article on the vertebrated oviporous animals & the same on birds—afterwards, in order to familiarize myself with the terms &c wrote a description of the swallow caught yesterday. On comparing it with Cuvier it seems to be the Hirundo riparia of Linnaeus. [Description in detail follows here.] Occupied till 12 with ornithology— read Wilson's account of the Hirundo fulva of America in the fourth vol: at the end of which are given some of Audobon's notices on American birds— he is well fitted I think to succeed Wilson in the field, being a man of the same stamp enthusiastic & poetical, and withal well skilled in the use of the pencil & the brush. A schooner which we could barely distinguish yesterday, has been in sight all today like ourselves moving southward at a snail's pace, owing to the calm which pervades the ocean—the heat is now much complained of but it does not incommode me much. Friday, October z6: N Lat: 7.21. W Long: 20.2. Worked some problems in Nories Navigation, illustrative of the trigonometrical terms. Read Maltebrun on the Electricity of the atmosphere & the various phenomena to which it gives rise, on the rate of refrangibility of the prismatic rays—shall read Thomson on Heat soon. Abernethy on the uses of the dorsal & facial muscles—began an article on the Eye, which promises to be instructive. The ocean has been "teeming with life" today—in the forenoon great numbers of a small fish called by the sailors Skip Jack were seen gamboling about the ship—and a shark about four feet long was hooked by the same tackle used for dolphin &c—the line being weak it was slackened out, whenever he chose to make a run—he was several times brought to surface, where he lay for some moments apparently quite exhausted & a looped rope might easily have been got around him then but twirling himself about he would again dart away into the depths—the harpoon was got. However he made another plunge & we saw him no more—a beautiful pilot fish about a foot long, kept close to him, swimming behind his pectoral fin during the struggle like an Aide du Camp, or the page of a warrior in days of yore—several immense albacores seen—in the evening the bonitos were leaping out of the water in thousands—two were caught—in pursuit of the flying fish have observed them springing 5 or 6 yards. Talking of sharks, forgot to state on Thursday :4«] dr. john McLoughlin As he appeared at the age when he was chief factor at Fort Vancouver and "governor" for the Oregon and Columbia fur trade districts. HON. JOHN WORK Hudson's Bay Factor at Fort Victoria and father4n4aw to Dr. Tolmie. that I ate a small portion of the flesh at breakfast. It had what is called a strong taste—oily & to me rather sickening. Saturday, October 27: N Lat: 6.54. W Long: 19.31. Occupied in the forenoon in altering the position of things in my berth, and making out a list of my dirty clothes in room of that lost on Tuesday. No geometry. Read Maltebrun on Winds—the following short extract describes faithfully the weather we have experienced for 8 days past—"on the confines of the two trade winds in the western ocean between Lat 4 & 10 N. and Long 180 & 530 West there is a space of sea where navigators find perpetual calms, accompanied by a suffocating heat, by thunder storms and dreadful lightning with rains so frequent and copious that this tract has been called the rainy sea. The slight winds that occur here are but sudden squalls of short duration and little extent so that sometimes every hour affords a different wind, which degenerates into a calm before another succeeds it." I have only once or twice in my lifetime seen rain similar to that which falls here almost every hour, it comes in torrents,—the schooner has been within 3 or 4 miles of us today —her hull can be distinctly seen, we exchanged colours but could not distinguish to what nation she belongs—several bonitos caught—had one for dinner which was palatable enough. Sunday, October 28: N Lat: 6.51. W Long: 17.55. Have had a steady breeze all day—but for every mile we advance southward, we go three to eastward. The ship rolling greatly in the forenoon, I felt a little squeamish. Watt on the arts and sciences & revised some other articles, having now finished the first part, laid the work aside & commenced Abercrombie on the Intellectual Powers. Read the book of Ecclesiastes this evening and intend to go from thence to the end of the Old Testament, being less acquainted with it than the preceding part—what a striking instance does the life of Solomon present of the unsatisfactory nature of worldly enjoyments—the possession of wisdom, rank, power and riches only served to shew him the more forcibly that "all is vanity & vexation of spirit"—The xii chapter is written in a beautiful & lofty strain & at the same time abounding in passages of great beauty. Monday, October 29: N Lat: 6.35. W Long: 16.37. Felt the heat in my berth last night so much as to prevent my sleeping—have some thoughts of trying the deck tonight—however as the thermometer is low, shall probably give the berth another trial—this morning examined the Goat's fractured femur—on looking back I find the accident occurred on the 8th inst: till the 24th the unfortunate animal was kept in the cook's apartment and yielded a small quantity of milk daily—on that day being brought on deck it fell into the hold & fractured some of its ribs—on Friday the Steward slew 49] it & brought me the bone today—the length of sound femur 7 in—of fractured 5 in—the other presented a comminuted fracture 1V2 in below trochanter & a second 3 in above condyles—upper fragments of bone united in a straight line, but overlapping or riding over lower at an angle of about 25° from trochanter to within iVz in of condyles there is a thick investment of callus—in which at each end the deposition of phosphate of lime is so far advanced as to give it almost the firmness of bone—in the middle it is in the state of firm fibrocartilage externally but internally it is soft, vascular & bloody with numerous splinters of bone interspersed through it-—had the animal lived, the limb tho' shortened, would I doubt not, have proved very serviceable. Read Maltebrun on the Monsoons of the Indian Ocean. I do not think him so clear as usual on the subject—Abernethy on the Functions of Morbid Anatomy of the Liver, he mentions what I was not aware of regarding the vena porta that persons have been found where it did go to the liver but opened into the vena cava above the renal veins. He gives an instance— the gall bladder was 1/3 less than usual containing a small quantity of natural looking bile—the hepatic artery 1/3 larger—the liver natural, situated more in the Epigastric region than is its wont—the subject was a child a year old "fat & muscular"—the thing is very curious certainly. Tuesday, October 30: N Lat: 6.14 W Long: 17.30. Number of bonitos following our track. Went over the article on Decimal Arithmetic in Norie. After a second perusal understand M. on the monsoons better—during summer a southwest wind blows from io° South Lat all over the Indian ocean, with only slight local deflections—the rarefaction of the atmosphere in the central platform of Asia, by the solar rays in summer causes a draught in this direction—and the same cause operating south of the Equator during our winter occasions an opposite phenomenon viz a NW wind extending to the 10th parallel of S| Lat: this as near as I remember is the sum & substance of M's dissertation—his mode of explaining the phenomena seems sufficiently plausible. Began the article on Climatology—Abernethy on the Lungs— Respiration, & the Morbid Anatomy of the Heart—all good, but brief, i.e. questions the fact of the lungs being exclusively nourished by the bronchial arteries & states that the substance forming pleuritic adhesions can be injected from the Pulmonary Artery, but how can venous blood afford support? & it is not arterialized until almost in the act of passing into the veins—examined by Cuvier a dolphin speared this forenoon; it is the Corypheus. Have been reading every night since Thursday the introduction to the Regne Animal. Wednesday, October 31: N Lat: 5.56. W Long: 17.49. Began the study of logarithms today—received information from G. regarding the mode of extracting the square & cube root by means of them. Proceeded with 5° I Maltebrun on Climates—he gives a just expose of Hippocrates' observations & reflections on the climatology of Greece & Asia Minor—did not lay the work aside till nearly six o'clock—since teatime have been conversing with G. on various subjects—he thinks that Sir Walter Scott's fame will not long outlive him & that he is not a great genius, & supports his opinion with the force of one who has been accustomed to argue on the subject. I admitted that he is not comparable to Byron & some others of the "illustrious dead" but took up the cudgels in his defense as a Novelist unequalled in any age, his failing as a historian is not surprising, his ambition prompted him to an undertaking for which by his previous habits & occupations he was totally unfitted, and in which no man of his stamp has, or is likely to succeed, because instead of a fertile & vivid imagination, a capacious understanding— memory & strong reasoning powers are the requisites. G. is very well informed on literary subjects & I hope to be much benefited by his conversation. This is Hallowe'en, and in "bonnie Scotland" the scenes so admirably described by Burns are now being enacted at many a cosy ingleside. I hope the good people at Glasgow & Campbelton are enjoying themselves—I daresay tonight they will be thinking of those who are wandering on the ocean. Thursday, November i: N Lat: 5.40. W Long: 16.54. Till 12 engaged with logarithms. Finished M. [Maltebrun] on climates and commenced a dissertation on the physical changes which the surface of the globe has undergone—since 4 have been reading Abernethy on the Absorbents & the Kidney. I long to read Magendie, where the Physiology of these subjects is treated more in detail. Find that to read Cuvier at night will not do, as the attention which has been directed during the day with other & various subjects, flags in the evening & seeks some lighter occupation—shall therefore study Cuvier before breakfast & continue the perusal of the Arabian Nights after 9 each evening. Friday, November 2: N Lat: 5.20. W Long: 16.40. At 12V2 a squall commenced suddenly from the S.E.—it continued violent for some hours, but has now subsided into a too gentle breeze—when the gale was the strongest and the foaming ocean most troubled, the bonitos, albacores &c were seen leaping out of the water in much greater numbers than usual, probably reaping a rich harvest among the flying fish, who were then less able to elude them. Rose at 7, and read Cuvier till 8—went on with logarithms till 12— hope to finsh them tomorrow. Read [Maltebrun] till dinner time then took up Cuvier again till 6—in Abernethy since 6Vz a prosy article on Generation but must peruse it again, as my thoughts wandered too much from the subject. Saturday, November 3: N Lat: 4.45. W Long: 17.36. Got up at 7V2, but, till breakfast time stood on the forecastle seeing the men attempting fruit" 5i lessly to spear the bonitos, for whom the baits had a greater attraction than usual as six were caught. Learn't the working Multiplication & division by Logarithms & began Proportion. Read Maltebrun on volcanoes, Earthquakes & the different theories of the formation of the globe—the burning of volcanoes is attributed by some to the spontaneous ignition of pyrites, by others to the combustion of bituminous & other inflammable substances but by most, to both these combined. M. mentions many phenomena which render all these explanations unsatisfactory—the origin of earthquakes, ascribed by the Neptunists to the heaving of the central water which the crust of the globe is supposed by them to enclose, by the vulcanists to the central fire, by the followers of Franklin to the air confined in the same way—all these phenomena are involved in unpenetrable mystery, of which mankind are now beginning to see the folly of attempting to unveil—from Terra del Fuego to California a volcanic chain can be traced, & from Kamtschatka through Japan and all the islands of the great Archipelago to N.S. Holland—it remains to be determined, whether they exist in the rocky mountains of N.W. America —if it shall be proved that they do & the necessary links from California to Kamtschatka supplied, an unbroken chain will be found to encircle the Pacific ocean. Sunday, November 4: N Lat: 4.24. W Long: 18.22. Had a bath in a large tub this morning which in these hot latitudes is a treat. Read prayers & G. afterwards one of the homilies—the ladies attended the service. Perused A. on the Intellectual powers till dinner time—a refutation of the doctrine of materialism and a brief account of the reasonings or rather hypotheses of philosophers on the essence of the mind, or the nature of the soul, a knowledge of which as in our present state of being—it is the Almighty's pleasure to withhold from us—futile must be the attempt of man to obtain. Read the song of Solomon—the style is highly figurative & some of the similies very pleasing, but the meaning seemed to me obscure in some instances—learned the C Psalm—I recollect it was a favorite one of my grandmother's, & the association of ideas, to which my reading or repeating it, gives rise, is pleasant tho' saddening. Am now going to look over the Spectator & shall at the end of the book mark those papers deemed worthy of future perusal. Monday, November 5: N Lat: 4. W Long: 19.20. Examined my gun this morning & found it a good deal rusted, occupied till past 1 o in putting it to rights and oiling it—made a little progress at logarithms. Read in Maltebrun a chapter on the Geographical distribution of plants—shall make extracts from it tomorrow—Abernethy on diseases of the Uterus and Ovaria—some sensible remarks on ovarian dropsy—but very meagre on uterine diseases— this eve copied into my atlas a table drawn up by Humboldt of observations [52] on the horary variation of the barometer in different parts of the torrid & temperate Zones. Yesterday and today a flock of large birds having been hovering for hours together about 3 or 400 yards ahead of us—their wings are of great extent—their flight like that of gulls and they "ever and anon" dart suddenly to the surface in pursuit of prey. Tuesday, November 6: N Lat: 3.7. W Long:Read again the chapter in M. on the geography of plants—he says "The temperature of the air seems to form the only physical limit to the extension of the vegetable kingdom, that the mountains of the torrid zone are clothed at their base with plants common to the neighbouring plains, on their sides with those of the temperate zones, & on their summits, the alpine plants of the north of Europe & even those of the frozen regions abound—the process by which vegetation establishes itself on a newly formed island is very surprising, no sooner has it emerged from the ocean, the lichens begin the work by thinly clothing its barren rocks, these are succeeded by mosses, grass, herbaceous plants and finally majestic forests adorn its surface and invite the colonist. It appears from the writings of the ancients that the mountainous elevations were inhabited long before the neighbouring plains which were frequently inaccessible marshes—in Europe, Asia, South America & the E. side of N. America, the mountains seem to be the native land of the plants which cover the countries scattered at their base. The west side of N America & N S Wales have not been sufficiently examined to enable us to determine if their case is similar. Some plants such as the cress, sorrel & succory are found in all countries. Nature thus affording to mariners a valuable antiscorbutic, wherever adverse winds may waft them—other plants of which the numerous genus Erica is a remarkable instance are confined to particular countries or continents. The genus Erica so abundant on the mountains of Europe is very rare in Asia & has not been discovered according to M. in the New Continent. Wednesday, November 7: N Lat: 2.2. W Long: 22.2. Got up at 7 this morning—read Cuvier till 8—he divides animals into 4 great classes— ist, red blooded vertebrated—2nd Molluscous. 3rd the articulated viz insects & worms & 4th the Zoophytes or radiated animals. Finished the study of logarithms—and next for Trigonometry—Maltebrun on the geographical distribution of animals & the varieties of the human race—Abernethy two brief dissertations on the vascular & nervous systems, on the morbid anatomy of the latter he goes into detail, but I have not finished the article. Have been followed today by numerous shoals of fish, apparently bonitos, swimming on the weather side of the ship, from midships to the stern—it is probable they were equally numerous to leewd. but the sun's rays being intercepted they could not be distinguished. G. supposes that they are attracted to the ship, [53] because the water in its track containing a greater quantity of atmospheric air, they can thus inhale oxygen more abundantly—having got to the conclusion of the third volume of the Arabian Nights, thought I had enough of romance reading for a while & began reading the Biography of the Naval heroes of Great Britain lent me by the Captain on Monday—from the time of Queen Elizabeth down to George III. Thursday, November 8: N Lat: 0.28. W Long: 23.10. Since the squall on Friday last when the tiresome calms and ephemeral breezes which we had experienced for many days were succeeded by a stiff gale, the wind has been gradually becoming more favourable & has now ripened into the regular S.E. trade which since Monday has wafted along at a very satisfactory rate & cooled the atmosphere 3 or 4 degrees—so much as to make me resume my waistcoat, with the use of which I had dispensed for a fortnight or 3 weeks past. Worked this forenoon some promiscuous questions by logarithms. Read in Maltebrun a brief account of the different religions professed by mankind & a chapter on Political Geography which terminates the ist vol: I shall again peruse the greater part of it, before commencing the second, as it contains a varied mass of highly useful instruction. Took up Cuvier at 4.—he divides the vertebrated animals into four classes viz. Mammiferous Birds, Reptiles & fishes—the first class is viviparous, the three latter oviparous, the first 3 respire air, the fourth water—in mammalia & birds—all the blood passes into the lungs & is acted on by the air, in reptiles, only a portion of it —in birds the blood is more exposed to the air than even quadrupeds for it not only acts on the branches of the pulmonary artery in the lungs, but permeating all the cavities of the body, even the bones, lessens the specific gravity of the bird & by its invigorating influence enables it to undertake & perform long continued flights. At 8 P.M. we crossed the equinoctial line, our longitude by G's calculation being 23.50 —a polite note was received by the Captain from Neptune, who wished to have the names of those who had not experienced his tender mercies—a peace offering in the shape of a bucket full of London Porter was sent to the deity & his myrmidons—the celebration of the usual rites was neglected at 8, not a cloud obscured the sky and the silver moon, shedding its mild beams over the ocean in a bright effulgence of light had a soothing & placid influence on the spirits, on the quarter deck we were all sitting apart, each seemingly busied with his own reflections—mine were on home, kindred & on friends and on the dispersion which has taken place among those fellow students & companions who last year at this time assembled at the university of Glasgow — those who reassemble this season will on meeting, talk of their absent friends who 54] have launched into the ocean of active life, of their achievements in the class room and on the cricket ground, yet in another year these also will have left their alma mater to mix in the turmoil of the world and engage in the responsible duties of their profession. Friday, November 9: S Lat: 1.7. Long:24.18. Employed till 12 in dissecting a fowl found dead in the Hencoop & reading Cuvier—traced Esophagus into crop which contained barley in a softened state, the lining membrane of Esoph. studded with small glands, that of crop apparently destroyed, existing only in shreds & patches, tube from crop to gizzard about 8 in. long gradually thickening towards latter, in which was found barley in a semidigested state copiously intermixed with small stones—its inner membrane yellow of a cartilaginous hardness & corrugated—about 1 Vz line. in. thickness —it separates entire on being handled, exposing beneath a delicate whitish membranous surface also rugous. Did not slit open bowels—from Gizzard downwards about 8 in. above anus a process of gut goes off which immediately divides into two coccus each 10 in. long.—heart large & muscular filled with black clotted blood—lungs of a bright red colour adhering firmly to ribs. Did not examine the other viscera minutely—at the next death shall attend to the structure of the skelton. Began revising Maltebrun on the relation of the Earth to the heavenly bodies. The tars got a plumpudding and an extra allowance of rum today—as a substantial solace for the non-observance of the Neptunian ceremonies, which are now I understand becoming obsolete. Saturday, November 10: S Lat: 2.49. W Long: 25.24. Studied Gunter's scales & the definitions in Trigonometry till 11. Read Maltebrun on the earth's motion in its orbits &c—Abernethy on enumeration of the pecularities of the fetus which he says "is an acknowledgement of ignorance for we really know nothing of them". He begins the lectures on Surgical operations by some remarks on Sutures—Under the head Trephining his observations on Concussion & compression of the brain are extremely valuable. In compression there is the assemblage of symptoms constituting insensibility in the fullest sense of the term with stetorous breathing & languid circulation. In concussion, the patient can be roused but with difficulty, he is cold and if raised up, vomits—the pupils are natural or sometimes contracted—on being placed in bed, warmth is soon restored & symptoms of Phrenitis appear, in robust persons must be combated by the most active depletory measures— in nervous persons general V.S. must be sparingly employed. A. has found it to produce bad symptoms in the after treatment—he strongly urges attention to the maladies arising from a neglect of this—on the propriety of trephining in general he talks very judiciously. Sunday, November 11: S. Lat: 4.29. W Long: 26.35. Prayers read [55] this morning by G. and part of a homily by me. Employed till six, in reading Abercrombie on Sensation & Perception & the evidence of testimony, by means of which latter we acquire most of our knowledge—he lays down rules for estimating the credibility of testimony, calculated to guard one against the extremes of credulity & skepticism—he shows that the investigation of the testimony regarding the miracles recorded in Holy Writ, which necessarily violate the laws of nature, is to be conducted in a manner different from that employed on ordinary occasions—the style is clear and energetic. This evening read from the 3rd to the 5 chapter of Isaiah and looked over the 23rd Psalm. Monday, November 12: S Lat: 6.18. W Long: 27.54. At Gunter's Scale till 11 Vz today—till 4 reading Maltebrun on the Solar System—looked into Guthrie & shall peruse his article on the subject tomorrow—this evening occupied with Abernethy on the operations for Cataract—he gives his testimony in favor of Extraction on Fistula Lachrymalis & Polypus Nasi & Epi- staxis—he tried Sir W. Blizare's plan of injecting the lachrymal sac with quicksilver repeatedly until it passes into the nose almost instantaneously & when persevered in has found it beneficial,—affections of the pituitary membrane depend on the state of the alimentary canal & he gives cases in support of this— there can be no doubt that all maladies are greatly affected by the state of the digestive organs, altho' in some the manifestions of this are more striking than in others. He has never been baffled in checking Epistaxis by passing a probe firmly wrapped with lint into the nostril so as to plug it completely—the probe must then be withdrawn and the lint allowed to remain for 3 or 4 days. At 8 P.M. the sea was more luminous than I have yet seen it, at each side and in the wake of the ship, there seemed to be a stream of white flame & now and then a broad sheet of startling brightness—this luminosity is said to be occasioned by the millions of animalculae floating near the surface & which during the period of amorous enjoyment emit a phosphorescent light. Tuesday, November 13: S Lat: 8.12. W Long: 29.48. Studied the use of the table of logarithmic sines &c till 1 Vz. Read Guthrie's Introduction on the astronomical relations of the Earth, a short account of the solar system & of the fixed stars and his description of the armillary sphere—afterwards Maltebrun on the relations of the earth to the moon. Perused Abernethy on the treatment of Hernia & the after treatment of Lithotomy cases, where the lectures end. Many of his lectures merit a second reading which they must have before I commence Magendie. The increased heat of today has been much felt. Had a wash in the tub tonight. We still have shoals of bonitos but few are caught. The petrels have been numerous in our wake today. Wednesday, November 14: S Lat: 9.57. W Long: 30.24. Studied the 56] table of Natural Lines &c today. Read Maltebrun on Eclipses of the Sun & Moon, these only occur when the latter is in the nodes of its orbit, i.e. where its orbit cuts the ecliptic, then if the moon is in conjunction with the sun, there will be an eclipse of the latter—if it is in opposition as it gets behind the shadow of Earth it can receive no solar rays—and "quod non habet non dabit"—also read on the different methods of finding the longitude of places, but have not come to the conclusion of this subject. Began to revise Abernethy. Sat with the ladies on deck from six to eight, conversing on various topics. Mrs. T. informed me that Lady Byron has given up her jointure of £2,000 per annum to Captain Lord Byron who commanded the expedition which carried the remains of Rihoriho & his royal consort to the Sandwich Isles—he espoused her ladyship's cause & when he succeeded to the empty title, she passed him this mark of gratitude. Saw at 11 A.M. on our lee- quarter a brig bearing N.W. and at 5 P.M. a ship steering right across our course—both at a great distance. Am going on with the Naval Biography, but frequently of a night an interesting conversation springs up between G., the C. or chief mate & myself when after pacing the quarter deck till fatigued we sit down—the other night we were talking of the achievements & character of Napoleon and last night G. & I got on the subject of Astronomy. Thursday, November 15: S Lat: 11.28. W Long: 31.37. Finished the tables of Nat: lines &c and commenced the study of the rules for computing angles. Continued M. on the subject of Longitudes. Am now endeavouring to understand everything thoroughly as I go on, and consequently make slow, but satisfactory progress—for the full comprehension of this subject a knowledge of the principles of Astronomy is requisite, which I shall set about acquiring altho' my trigonometrical lore will hardly bear me out as yet, however it will I hope be daily increasing. I find myself deficient on many points in the course of my reading, but must make them successively objects of study. The place where our trunks lie (the 'tween decks) was cleaned out today and a new arrangement took place, not very favorable for me, but I hope to be able to effect some improvements. G. calculates that we have sailed 4500 miles since dep. out. Friday, November 16: S Lat: 12.21. W Long: 32.14. Computed two triangles by log, calculation and geometrical construction. Find Norie's Epitome of Navigation more easy to understand than Ingram. In Maltebrun conclusion of the accds. of the methods of finding the Longitude—Abernethy on Tetanus—he gives a brief retrospective sketch of the treatment—cold Affusion had its advocates in the "sage of Cos" and latterly Dr. Currie of Liverpool & a Dr. Wright of Jamaica, V.S. in De Haen—& stimulants &c in Russia—of these, the first seems to have been most frequently beneficial. A. [57] depends chiefly on producing secretions from the bowels which are obstinately constipated & small doses of opium after evacuations have been produced. As the digestive organs he says, are at first sympathetically affected, so, after the original irritation is removed, as may be seen in traumatic gangrene when the wound puts on a healthy appearance the disease is prolonged by the disorder existing in the alimentary canal hence amputation, altho' it may mitigate, cannot cure the malady—he advances this as an original opinion & strongly calls the attention of the profession to it. Saturday, November 17: S Lat: 13.3. W Long: 32.52. Up at 7. Promenaded the quarter deck till breakfast time. At Trigonometry till 12 & have worked all the examples in Norie of Plane Trig:—from 12 till nearly 2 angling for a shark which was taken with the third bait, he having carried off two with impunity—it was 5 feet in length—the same species as the former (Squalus glaucus)—its stomach save the two pieces of pork was empty—dissected one of the eyes, but not having Cuvier did not make much of it. Got a suckling fish which was attached to the belly of the animal, but have not examined it. Have this evening been reading Cuvier on the division of Fishes into Classes & orders. Sunday, November 18: S Lat: 14.7. W Long: 33.32. Examined the suckling fish this morning as it would not keep till Monday—it belongs to the 2nd division Malacopterygiens because the rays of the fins are soft, not spinous & the second order of that division subbrachiens, which is characterized by the ventrals being attached beneath the pectorals and the pelvis is immediately suspended to the shoulder bone (os depaule)—the genus Echi- neis Linn: it is remarkable for the flattened disk which is placed on the head, composed of transverse cartilaginous plates obliquely directed backwards, toothed or spinous at their posterior border & moveable, so that the fish by means of them fixes itself to different bodies such as vessels, rocks, fish &c. The number of these plates alone determines the species, in this fish—they were 19—on each of the mesial line—which does not agree with any of Cuvier's species. [Detailed description of fish follows here.] Have been reading Abercrombie all day on memory and attention and the association of ideas with the influence of disease on these mental operations—he deals with these subjects in a familiar & easy manner and his views generally, I think, are correct—have marked the most admired passages. This evening read several chapters of Isaiah & learn't the 23rd Psalm. Owing to the inclemency of the weather prayers were not read. Monday, November 19: N Lat: 15.42. W Long: 34.1 Course S.S.W.V2S. Worked several examples of the calculation of right-angled triangles and shall begin tomorrow the oblique angled—logarithms are truly [58] an invaluable aid to the mathematician in his operations—Maltebrun on the form of the earth &c. Abernethy on the reciprocal influence of local diseases & the nervous and digestive systems on each other—in this lecture he unfolds his peculiar views on the extensive sympathies of the stomach & bowels, afterwds. commenced his discourse on Strictures, which I think one of the best in the work—he gives a useful caution not to mistake for stricture that spasmodic affection of the urethra which frequently precedes its formation and by the repeated use of bougies may be converted into it. We treat it by tepid bath, leeches, laxatives & attention to regimen—stricture is commonly situated in the lower surface of urethra & is produced by a chronic enlargement of the lining membrane in a semilunar form—its symptoms are great difficulty & pain in making urine, which cannot be retained for any length of time &c —in passing the bougie a good rule is having nipped up the point a little, to press it gently against the upper surface of U. & move it from side to side—■ if obstructed when it is withdrawn, the irritation it has occasioned is to be subdued which at first is considerable before it should again be introduced. A. never does it oftener than once a week—the cure he says is effected by diminishing the morbid irritability by the mechanical stimulus not by dilation as some suppose. He alludes to the French mode of cure by employing varnished catheters & allowing them to remain & replacing by larger ones, but does not think them permanent—the men have been occupied all day in setting and taking in the studding sails—the vessel now—gVz P.M.—carries only her fore & top sails, less than she has hitherto. Tuesday, November 20: S Lat: 16.59. W Long: 34.52. Yesterday & today the ship has rolled excessively, was awakened early this morning by a heavy splash of water about my legs—it entered by the porthole during one of the lee lurches, and thoroughly wetted the bedding. Got from the Steward a large flying fish, which I was engaged in examining till nearly 10— it belongs to the division Malacopterygiens abdominaux and genus Exocetus —species ixilieus. [Detailed description of fish follows here.] Began oblique angled Trigon: but did not attempt any of the questions—Maltebrun on the Longitudes—the nautical mode of counting is east & west from where the first meridian is placed in the geographical—the degrees are counted for the whole circle commencing in an easterly direction. Rules with examples are given for reducing them into each other, which as they are somewhat tedious I shall not put down—the ship rolls dreadfully—the table has been swept clean several times. Wednesday, November 21: SLat: 18.41. W Long: 35.37. Occupied till n in preparing the skin of the flying fish, which I stuffed with lint wetted with turpentine & put it into the insect case—also preserved one of [59] the eyes. Till 2 at Trigonometry—performed two questions out of Ingram. Read Maltebrun from 3V2 till six on the laws of the decrease of degrees of longitude, on the division of the horizon into points—on the loxodromic line and the mode of determining the sq. surface of any part of the earth, suppose between the parallels of S Lat 180 & 190—& the meridians 350 & 36°. Find the number of sq: leagues in the zone comprehended between 18° & 190, then as this sum is to 3600 so is the quadrilateral enclosed by the given meridians & parallels to the sum required, by reducing the difference between the sines of the angles 18 ° & i§°toVz we find what proportion the area of the zone holds to the total areas of the globe—in the end of the work is given a table of the square surface of Zones by the German Klugel. I shall copy it into my atlas. My thermometer I have had in use fell from the place it was kept in & broke during dinner—the loss is embittered by the reflexion that it could not have been carefully laid aside as in the same situation it has withstood more severe rolls of the ship than any that occurred today. For the last two evenings have been reading the article on strictures of the Urethra in Cooper's Dictionary—shall defer any observations till I have finished it. Thursday, November 22. S Lat: 20.38. W Long: 36.43. At 12 the topsails were single reefed for the first time during the voyage, they were unreefed at 6 and the main try sail & topgallant sails set—the sea has washed the quarter several times and has entered my berth by the floor & the scuttle, which latter the carpenter has now secured. The origo mali in the former case has not been discovd. Owing to the rolling of the vessel, it required all our exertions to keep things on the table at dinner time. The main sail was then taken in, but soon let out again as the weather became more moderate. Solved two triangles this forenoon. Read Maltebrun on the formation of Geographical maps—the projections are the orthographic & stereographic— the stereographic subdivided into the Polar when eye is supposed to be at the Pole and the globe seems divided into two hemispheres—the equatorial when the projection is on a line perpendicular to the axis of the poles and horizontal when the horizon of any place is made the point of projection. Merely glanced over books vi & vii which continue the subject of Maps, but involving questions in the higher Geometry & Spherical Trigonometry. My studying them at present would be premature and futile. Have concluded the article on Stricture in Cooper—the muscular fibres of the urethra—spasmodic stricture is occasioned by partial contraction of these. Mr. Hunter opposed the opinion that gonorrhea was a frequent cause of stricture, altho', as most men have that complaint, he admitted that it was difficult to refute it. Sir A. C. thinks it is the cause in 99 cases out of 100. Mr. H. thinks its most usual seat is immediately anterior to the bulb & that it never occurs post to it. Sir 60 " A. C. agrees with him in the first position, but places the membranous portion next in frequency. Sir E. Home says they occur most commonly behind the bulb, which is found by measurement to be 63A or 7 in distance from orifice. With respect to treatment lunar caustic has a zealous supporter in Sir E. Home even in preference to a common bougie. I do not think his arguments in its favour very forcible. Whately advocates the potassafusa but it is objected that it is so delinquescent it may take effect on the sound parts where the stricture is extensive & there is much thickening. Mr. Stafford proposes, by the introduction of an instrument of his own invention armed with lancets in a stilette, to cut the stricture in several places & then allow a catheter to remain in the bladder for 2 days to get the parts to heal properly. Delpech never uses caustic when the urethra is pervious to the smallest catheter—the cure has been attempted by the harsh measures of producing ulceration & by laceration —of course all these writers adduce cases in support of their favorite methods, but none view the disease in the same light as Abernethy, whether as to its dependence on the state of the alimentary canal, or as to the cure of bougies not being brought about by dilatation and the propriety of allaying the irritation occasioned by the bougie whether or not before again passing it. His treatment is based on the most correct principles and is that which I shall try when a case occurs. Friday, November 23: S Lat: 22.26. W Long: 36.29. Cloudy and at times drizzly—partial sunshine—a stiff breeze from W.S.W. At 6 top gallant- sails in & topsails double reefed. At Trigonometry till 12—made tolerable progress. Read Maltebrun on the Geographical divisions of land & water— with respect to peninsulars it is remarkable that all except two project towards the South—those of Jutland & Yucatan alone are directed towards the N. and they are merely alluvial deposits—the direction the land is different in the new & old worlds—in the former being pole to pole—in the latter parallel to the equator—the eastern side of both continents more indented with bays & firths than the opposite one—this is particularly the case with America—along its western coast the Columbia is the only river of note & south of the Gulf of Georgia the Californian sea the only considerable gulf or bay—from Cape Horn an almost unbroken chain of mountains extends to the Cape of Good Hope—its secondary range forms the bold & precipitous shores of the Austro Oriental ocean throughout this prodigious extent—the isthmuses of Darien & Suez differ in structure, the first being composed of mountains of porphyry, the second of sand principally. It is a striking circumstance that both the great continents are thus narrowed, being almost again subdivided—the difference in climate is probably occasioned by the land in America stretching more towards the N. Pole, while its configuration with [61] the tropics is very dissimilar to that of the old continent. Began to read Magendie's Physiology—he commences by giving the differences between inorganic & living bodies which depend on their form, composition & regulating laws. Several of the distinctions are ill defined—then the differences between animals & vegetables—the base of composition in the former is azote, in the latter carbon—the former obtain their nourishment by an internal canal of a size appreciable to that of the trunk, the latter by capillary tubes placed on the surface, of an unappreciable proportion to the diameter of the trunk or stem. Animals have the power of locomotion, vegetables are fixtures —veg: composed only of 3 or 4 elements & find their nourishment in their immediate vicinity in a state of preparation. Animals, formed of 8 or 10 elements, must by their exertions procure food & elaborate it before it can afford nourishment. Saturday, November 24: S Lat: 24.1. W Long: 35.47. Have now bade adieu to the torrid zone and an agreeable coolness is already perceptible in the air. Have nearly finished oblique angle Trig, in Ingram. Read Maltebrun on the physical characters of the crust of the globe, but as the disagreeable pitching motion of the ship rendered me somewhat squeamish, in the forenoon was not attentive enough to remember much—argal—the passage must be reperused on Monday. At Magendie since 4—on the division of the body into solids and fluids—a body 120 lbs. wt. may be reduced to 10 lbs. by desiccation—the translator quotes from Maltebrun's Geogr: that in Teneriffe mummies have been found weighing only 7 lbs.—he terms "hydrates of humanity", are they not anhydrous rather? Excellent tables are given at the end of the properties of the tissues & fluids from Bichat, Plenk & the best modern chemists—a property common to all Tissues is that of Imbibition— 17 simple bodies enter into the formation of the body and four unconfinable ones. Caloric, Light, Electricity and Magnetism, these combining in threes and fours form the proximate principles, which are divided into the azotized and nonazotized, the substances forming most of these are Oxg: Hydrog: Azote & Carbon. Sunday, November 25: S Lat: 25.45. W Long: 36.20. Several heavy squalls accompanied by rain. Main royal yards struck, top sails and mizen sheet single reefed, at 8 former double reefed. Owing to the state of the weather, prayers were not read. Perused Abercrombie on the Imagination and part of his essay on Reason. Respecting the former he justly remarks that there is no power that requires to be kept under greater subjection or more stern control than it—an ill regulated imagination unfits one from pursuing with steadiness any train of thought— some stray notion or recollection occurs to him, and instead of throwing it aside as an unwelcome intruder he suffers [62] his attention to be led away by it until he completely loses sight of the subject previously under consideration. How many times has this happened to me, how prone have I always been to indulge in idle reveries and waking dreams. The admonitions of Watt and Abercrombie have awakened me to a sense of danger of this practice, and my efforts lately to curb the fancy & acquire a firm command over the thoughts have been crowned with success sufficient to encourage me to perseverance. Read some chapters in Isaiah this evening in the 13th—the downfall of Babylon is foretold, how truly has the prophecy been fulfilled. Antiquarians now dispute as to where its seat was. Monday, November z6: S Lat: 27.18. W Long: 36.18. Examined my foul linen, which corresponded to list in note book. Put several books which are only occasionally required, into the portmanteau, as they become mildewed if allowed to remain in the berth without being frequently handled. Inspected my firearms—they did not require oiling. Engaged in this way till nearly 11. At Trigonometry till 12—Maltebrun on the internal structure of the earth—the section I read on Saturday. To whatever depth we have yet penetrated into the "bowels of the earth", the component parts have always been found disposed in strata, one above another, when these are horizontal they are called layers, when vertical blocks—the masses are almost all intersected by fissures or cavities which are supposed to have been occasioned by the retiring or sinking of the earth. These, if considerable, form caverns & grottoes, but when small are denominated veins, the theory of which is imperfectly understood. Their essential character is the passing in a direction different from that of the mass in which they are found & being of a dissimilar formation or composition their size and extent varies ad infinitum—a vein sometimes maintains the same size throughout its course & again they are found to branch out into smaller ones. Almost every mineral & also petrifactions are known to compose, or fill them. From thence, Werner supposed that they were originally fissures, which became filled by depositions from a fluid passing over them—of numerous other hypotheses given, M. thinks this the most probable. Strata are divided, according to their position—those found deepest, and which contain neither animal nor vegetable remains are termed Primary or Primordial. The secondary contain both these remains, and the Tertiary, or the most superficial are masses of the primary and secondary heaped together without any apparent order. Shall try the plan of reading Magendie and Maltebrun on alternate days & it and my present method have each their advantages—it remains to be proved which will suit me best. Borrowed a celestial map from the C. and shall devote a portion of every clear eve. to acquiring a knowledge of the principal fixed stars. Tuesday, November zy. S Lat: 28.40. W Long: 35.35. At Trigo- [63: nometry till ioVz when a homeward vessel appeared in sight about an hour's sail from us. Laid aside my books and wrote my father a brief epistle. Asked him to send me in Sept. next a work on Comparative Anatomy. Mentioned Cuvier—the French translation of Meckel & Lawrence's translation of Blumenbach, also to send some flute music. Recommended him to write Uncle Alexr. to get the book in London. Mentioned what my occupations are & how my time is allotted. Told Alick to call on Dr. Hooker, Scouler & Mr. Murray. As we met the vessel at 11, the letter was necessarily short, but it will be very satisfactory to my friends to know that we have got thus far prosperously. In order to make the most of another such opportunity, should it occur, I shall begin another letter, so as to have it in readiness, and the older it is, the more matter it will contain. The vessel proved to be the Brig Jansen from Valparaiso 2 months & 7 days, with a cargo of hides & indigo. She met with very boisterous weather off Cape Horn—is bound for London. Have been reading Maltebrun. Granite forms the basis of the primitive strata—it is generally supposed to form an immense arch or vault, on surrounding the globe on which the other masses rear. The Cordilleras in America are formed by huge beds of porphyry resting on Granite, the only principle determined is that the primary rocks are never found in any quantity lying on the others. Transition rocks are found at base of primary formed of masses in part purely calcareous & partly mixed with animal remains of the different strata of secondary rocks, some contain the remains of vegetables, some of fishes, and others of quadrupeds all different from those now existing alive. Mountains composed of these rocks are not so rugged & are more verdant than the pre- mordial. Tertiary rocks contain the recompounded masses of primitive confusedly mingled with portions of secondary united together by a cementing substance. Conglomerates & breccias belong to this class. Wednesday, November 28: S Lat: 29.42. W Long: 35.43. At Mathematics till 12, began to study the Mariner's Compass. Took advantage of the fine weather to get my black leather trunk lashed upon the arm chest where it will be conveniently situated. Finding its contents damp—examined chest, not thoroughly, but, thanks to the oilcloth-lining, mildew had not made much progress in it. A small quantity of the arsenical paste had escaped & the crystallized arsenic was found on a pair of shoes—enclosed the jar in 3 folds of strong brown paper, and afterwards wrapped a towel round the whole. This I think will sufficiently secure it but it must be frequently looked at. Made a list of the books in that chest, as I intend making a catalogue of my books— and all my effects as soon as convenient—the one written before leaving home I cannot find. It was tea time before this task was finished. Read Magendie on Life, we know only its effects. The term vital principle there- 64] fore is incorrect—the blood, the chyle, and the lymph share in the vitality of the solids, the excrementitous fluids, urine &c do not manifest any vital properties. The diversity of appearances presented by living man may all be reduced to two principles—nutrition and vital actions—the first comprehends the destructive, and reparative processes constantly going on, the second, the action of the voluntary muscles—secretion &c. both these have a mutual dependence on each other. Am much pleased with M.—he renounces all romantic theories and only from a series of well authenticated facts deduces hypotheses. It would have been well for Medicine had the earlier writers, instead of constructing baseless, tho' beautiful fabrics, adopted this plan. Thursday, November 29: S Lat: 30.46. W Long: 37.53. Examined chest No. 2 and found my clothes in a good state of preservation—made a note of the contents of amputating case and a list of the books in No. 2 chest. Occupied till 12m the above way. Read Maltebrun since then. He divides the substances forming the mineral kingdom into four classes—saline, earthy, inflammable & metallic. Have made a few extracts from his description of the bodies composing these classes. Carbonate of lime is the most abundant of any known mineral—it belongs to every geological epoch and to every soil— is abundant in the primordial masses, still more so in the secondary, of which it forms more than half, and in the tertiary is found combined with clays—is found in very different states—when in that of chalk is supposed to be the produce of the decomposition of shell fish—in the Equatorial seas the madrepores form great quantities of it when very hard & susceptible of polish constitutes marble. Alum has for its base Alumina which is also the base of the clays & composes all the precious stones. Amongst the earths, Quartz is one of the most important. It has crystallized silex for its base and comprehends some varieties very different in their outward aspect, for instance common sand, rock crystal, the amethyst, sapphire, opal, jasper, common silex. Arenaceous quartz or sand by fusion is made into glass. Felspar forms the basis of a multitude of rocks, predominates in the primitive formation & composes 2/3 of the substance of granite. In its decomposed state, employed in the manufacture of Porcelain. Mica belongs to primordial rocks & is formed by their decomposition, used in Siberia instead of glass. Asbestos— abundant in Corsica where it is mixed with clay in the potteries & gives the ware the property of withstanding a sudden heat, is found in Ural Mts. and Greenland. Inflammable substances—Sulphur & Carbon exist in Nature independently of animals & vegetables & as they exist in granite their preexistence must be admitted. The elementary oils also existed before vegetables. Pitcoal seems to be a combination of bitumen with an earthy base—it, as well as most bituminous substances owes its origin to the decom- 65] ^ position of animal & vegetable substances—it is a remarkable fact that pitcoal itself so combustible is sometimes found covered by the product of volcanoes or at best by substances that have been in a state of fusion. The Feroe Islands are the best example of this, being composed of basalt—they have not been properly examined. The metals are put in the order of their sp: gr:—of its two properties of fusibility & malleability. Iron can only possess one at the expense of the other—"the difference between cast iron, forged iron & steel depends upon two principles, namely oxygen & carbon—their union constitutes Castiron—the absence of both at least in a perceptible quantity characterizes forged iron: and in steel carbon exists alone without oxygen." Friday, November 30: S Lat: 31.1. W Long: 40.5. Put on cloth trowsers, and ordered a blanket on my bed. Committed to memory the points of the Mariners compass and began the study of Plain Sailing. Since 12 have been reading Magendie but a remark of G's during dinner caused my thoughts to wander frequently from the book. M. divides the functions into those of relation, of nutrition & of generation—those of sensation are the five senses or the external powers. The mental or internal—Voice & motion. He begins with vision and gives a brief but clear account of the various properties of light and afterwards treats of the apparatus of vision. An Albratross was seen several times today careering about us—it was a small one. Took the temperature of the air with my remaining thermometer—the degrees are clearly marked and it seems to be very correct. Saturday, December 1: S Lat: 31.30. W Long: 41.14. The clear sky and cloudless horizon, the sea moving northwards with slow and majestic undulations, whose surface, smooth as glass, was only disturbed by the sportive gambols of the fish, and the sunbeams mellowed by the interposition of a light cloud shedding a golden brightness over the ocean, all united to render the evening serenely beautiful. Took advantage of the calm to study the problems on the celestial map, which cannot safely be spread out when the ship's motion is considerable. Have been reading Maltebrun since 12 on the aggregate substances which compose the solid part of the globe. Am copying his classification of aggregate substances into the book containing the list of N. American plants. Shall appropriate that book to notes & extracts in Natural History, i.e. such as are too lengthy for my journal. On crystallized rocks he says that rocks having for their base quartz felspar, or mica are highest in the scale. Granite is the first of these. Gneiss is next to Granite, but its texture is granular and also foliated. Alumina or argillaceous earth seems to have the property of preventing crystallization. The micaceous and argillaceous schists composed of quartz and mica mixed with alumina—both occur in laminae. Anxious as geologists are to produce a correct classification of the rocks, they have numer- [66] ous obstacles to contend with—the crystallized, conglobate, conglomerate &c run into each other by such imperceptible gradations, and so many substances being found in such opposite circumstances & relations—the celebrated substance Basalt has divided Geologists into sects who dispute about its origin with all the zeal of church partizans. A large turtle the same species as that got 5 oct. caught this morning—Testudo Carretta—the specific characters 15 central pieces to carapace, & 27 marginal and the curved beak &c distinctly marked. ioVz P.M. Have just finished copying the classification of rocks &c. Paid the customary tribute to our friends far awa'. Conversed with G. on Geologists & Geology. Dolomieu, a writer frequently quoted by Maltebrun was a celebrated French Geologist—while travelling in Sicily, he was seized by order of government & imprisoned. Napoleon in the treaty of peace stipulated for his release after he had suffered several years' confinement. All rocks are composed of some of the following five substances united two & three together, for instance, Granite is formed of the first three or sometimes 4. Whatever may be the colour or form of these substances they can by the following characters be known and distinguished from each other. Quartz strikes fire with steel & cannot be scratched. Felspar can be slightly scratched with a knife. Mica can be separated into elastic plates wt. kn. Hornblende gives a green streak when scratched. Limestone is easily scratched. nVz P.M. Have just made out the star Canopus in the constellation Argo Navis, by means of the celestial map. Sunday, December 2: S Lat: 31.41. W Long: 41.38. Great numbers of small molluscae, some of a circular & others of a vermiform shape floating around us. Two pilotfish who were satellites to the turtle caught yesterday, have continued with us & have been seen frequently, divers plans were tried to catch them, but in vain. They belong to the genus Naucrates, Class Acanthopterygiens. Examined an Echineis, found attached to the turtle—it differed in nothing from the specimen I got on the 18 Ult: except that the number of plates forming the flattened disk & which determines according to Cuvier the species, was 17 instead of 19—still differing with any of those mentioned by C. At n prayers were read by me & G.—read part of a homily—this is the first Sunday in Advent. Have been reading Abercrombie Sect iv of Reason or Judgement, this he says "is the exercise of the mind by which we compare facts with each other and mental impressions with external things"—the first is done by studying the relations of things—as 1. Relations of character as the physical & chemical properties of a subst. 2.R. of Analogy or Resemblance—we compare bodies together & observe what properties they have in common & in what they differ. 3. from the preceding obs: we deduce a general principle. 4. Relation of composition. 5. R. of Causation. 6. of 67; A degree or proportion. 7. the moral relations. We correct the impressions of the mind with regard to the external world by comparing them with it. After some observations on the characters of men in which he points out two modifications opposed to that of the reasonable man, one who altho' he draws his conclusions hastily and without due consideration yet is open to conviction & gains wisdom by experience, the other persists in his rash resolves & turns a deaf ear to all admonition or caution "until he at last seems to have become totally insensible to the reasons and motives which influenced other men." He, A., proceeds to speak of the use of reason in the investigation of truth, and enumerates "the first Truths" or the intuitive articles of belief which come home to the minds of all men & lie at the foundation of all reasoning. They are: 1. a conviction of our existence, 2. a confidence in the evidence of our senses, 3. a confidence in our own mental processes, 4. a belief in our personal identity, 5. a belief that every event must have a cause, 6. a confidence in the uniformity of nature. These fundamental truths are alike incapable of proof and refutation, and altho' they are not weakened by the assaults of those who pretend to disbelieve them, still they are but lamely supported by those who attempt to defend them by reasoning. Monday, December 3: S Lat: 32.30. W Long: 42.10. Examined and oiled the firearms this morning and repaired my inexpressibles from Vz past 10 till 12. Studied plain sailing, since then have been reading Magendie and dissected roughly one of the turtle's eyes—have not yet got Cuvier's Comparative Anatomy from G.—the Eyeball is supported in its socket by a cushion of fatty lobules united by cellular substance. Sclerotic is black in front—light blue with black streaks posty.—Cornea pretty convex, not hard, iris light brown, very small—Crystalline lens soft, small & globular shaped, vitrious humour abundant, tenacious—there is seen in it a whitish opaque, oblong body extending throughout its axis—eyelids loose & scaly, the scales degenerate into fleshy prominences towards margin, commissure not distinctly marked. There is a third eyelid or film placed perpendicularly to the others—it arises from the conjunction or is a process from it, at outer canthus & extending to some distance above and below—shape semilunar—it is drawn forward & inwards so as completely to cover the cornea by a small muscle proceeding out of orbit down over front of Eyeball and inserted into it at its middle, opposite outer canthus, texture tough & elastic—perhaps the other eyelids are immoveable & it is intended to protect the eye from any sudden injury—this is the case in the shark. Two large shoals of porpoises passed us journeying to the S.W. They gamboled around the ship for several minutes—affording some excellent chances to the harpooner—the harpoon being, after a great [68] bustle, prepared, was thrown & struck a large fish which however escaped, having by his struggles, bent the instrument and twisted himself loose. Tuesday, December 4: S Lat: 34.1. W Long : 45.15. Learn't the use of the tables of diff: of Lat: and departure 1 & 2—& worked some examples in Plain Sailing. Read Maltebrun on the fossil remains of organic bodies, ist—the bones of animals imbedded in different Strata, are found in their natural state & are sometimes partly covered with flesh & skin—at other times, calcined—accurate impressions of vegetables most frequently seen in the marly & argillaceous schists. Petrifactions are stony substances having the figure of organic bodies. Sometimes a fluid impregnated with stoney particles flows into cavity from which an organic body had disappeared and thus will be moulded into its shape. Again an organic substance, while decaying may be surrounded & pressed upon by a stony juice, and as each organic particle dissolves and disappears, a stony particle replaces it. In this manner the structure of the substance is completely copied—in petrified trees the concentric layers showing the age of the plant are seen. Quartz-agate is most frequently the petrifying substance, but pyrites, silver, copper & other metals have been found in the form of organic bodies. Shells and Zoophytes are the most abundant amongst the remains of the animal kingdom, and immense beds of them have been found in all parts of the world yet explored. Fishes are next in frequency. Few species similar to the fossils found in Europe and the north of Asia now exist, & these only in tropical countries—none are met with in the places mentioned—the remaining Continents have not been yet sufficiently explored —the term Pelasgian is applied to accumulations formed by the ocean— Littoral to banks of indiginous shells formed by the tides &c. While the revolutions that overwhelmed the lower sea animals took place, the mammalia, birds and cetacae either did not exist, or lived in a situation that secured against the effects of these castrophies. The remains of Mammiferae have not been found covd. over by a regular stony bed, and they also are found in regions where similar animals do not now exist. The fossil bones of the elephant & some neighbouring species now unknown, the mastrdonte, tapir are found in Europe, Asia & America imbedded in sand or marl—even in Siberia & Iceland, countries which must have enjoyed a climate different from their present one to enable them to supply the colossal animals with food. Wednesday, December 5: S Lat: 34.15. W Long: 46.8. Engaged with Navigation till 12—in plain sailing the ship's course &c. is represented by a right angled triangle which is solved by the rules of Plane Trigonometry. From 12 till nearly 2 cobbling inexpressibles. After dinner took a siesta, at least lolled in my hammock—lay in an indolent musing mood till nearly 6 for the last few days—this habit of inattention has rather been gaining ground [69] JJ on me, and its pernicious effects are perceptible in my studies—it is a very insidious enemy and must be crushed in the bud. In the evenings after writing up my journal am now reading Johnson's Table Talk— a collection of that eminent man's opinions and remarks on a diversity of subjects, as delivered in the course of conversation. (The compiler's name is not given.) J. was a man profoundly skilled in human nature & from perusing this, new views on many subjects have been opened to me. He entertained a great dread of death, yet when the hour of his dissolution approached, he sustained himself with christian fortitude. This brings to my recollection my illness in Sept. 1831, when I thought my end approaching hourly, in agony and remorse, I reviewed my past life & contemplated the future with dread. I prayed earnestly for the grace of repentance & pardon & resolved sincerely to amend, should the Almighty spare me—these feelings became fainter as my strength increased & my commerce with the world was renewed & this solemn warning has not yet produced that effect which God grant it may speedily do—that of awakening me to a proper sense of my precarious state, & inspiring me with a steady desire to seek for regeneration at the proper source. At times I feel this desire strongly, but the same wavering unsettled state of mind which attends me in my daily studies does not permit the good seed to take root. Thursday, December 6: S Lat: 34.39. W Long: 47.23. Began Traverse Sailing, used when the ship's course has been in a zig zag direction. Have been reading Maltebrun on Hydrology on the different origins of and with the for its connected with Springs, Rivers & Lakes—(was trying to shoot a large Albatross & chatting with the ladies from tea till 8 at the time I should have been digesting & making notes of my day's reading.) Many springs are formed by the filtration of sea water & rise & fall with the tides—the most remarkable spouting springs are the Geysers in Iceland, the water rises to the height of 80 feet—it is probable that they receive their water from considerable heights. As well in the tropics—the alternations of rainy & dry seasons are regular, so the rivers have periodical risings, those which flow parallel to the Equator will to a certain extent overflow their banks equally throughout as the Oronoko, the Sengal &c. On the contrary the rivers, running north and south from a great elevation into extensive plains, being acted on unequally by the tropical rains, will carry their surplus waters chiefly into the lower part of their territory—this is the case with the Nile, the Ganges & some others. Friday December 7: S Lat: 35.43. Long: 49.31. Finished Traverse and commenced Parallel Sailing—when I understand the method do not lose time in working many examples. Have met with no difficulties as yet. Read Johnson's Table Talk for half an hour in the forenoon—on Literature—from [7°: detached remarks, his opinion of many of his illustrious co-temporaries can be gleaned—Burke, Goldsmith &c. Few men have been so fortunate in their biographer as J., Boswell knew his mind perhaps as well as one man can know another's—and made himself acquainted with his sentiments on a great variety of subjects— I should like much to read his life of J. Finished Table Talk & borrowed from G. the second volume of the biography of celebrated Travellers by J. A. St. John. Have been reading Magendie on Vision, the number of conflicting opinions regarding the use of the different parts involves the subject in difficulty which one perusal cannot overcome—as I find the advantage of reperusing Maltebrun, shall adopt the same practice with Magendie and make notes during the second reading—more benefit is derived from reading one book with attention than from going through a dozen in a cursory manner—10V2 P.M. Have made out the constellations Crux & Columba in the Southern Hemisphere—Full moon, very clear, dew falling abundantly. Saturday, December 8: S Lat: 36.12. W Long: 50.30. Finished Parallel and commenced middle Latitude Sailing. Read Magendie till 2—the conclusion of the chapter on vision and beginning of that on Hearing—Maltebrun on the Sea—Tides, Currents &c. The mountains of continents seem to correspond with the abysses of the sea, but the highest of the former do not rise to 20,000 feet making allowance for their wasting by the action of the elements—the depth of the sea is supposed not to be beyond 30,000 feet. The greatest depth yet measured is 4680 feet by Lord Mulgrave in the Northern ocean, no bottom was found. The level of seas generally the same, small portions of sea open only to the east, have usually a higher level on account of the accumulation of water in them by the equatorial current which does not find a ready outlet. Saltness of sea less towards the Poles than under equator, except in bays &c. where large quantities of fresh water enter—many surmises regarding origin of saltness. Halley attributed it to the decomposition of fresh water which flows in—this is known to take place in salt water lakes, but it has been objected that the saltness must be always increasing—as the bitterness diminishes in proportion to the depth, it must depend on the decomposition of the animal and vegetable matters which the sea contains. 3 kinds of motion in sea—Sidereal Tides, Motion of Currents & atmospheric motion or waves—3 regions but without any certain limit, ist Region of undulations immediately followed by that of currents below which is the immovable region. Tides depend on the moon's attraction. The earth in its diurnal motion presents every point on its surface opposite to the moon's centre—the moon attracts the waters in conjunction with it & the earth being also attracted recedes from the water in opposition to the moon, i.e., in the opposite meridian [71] —which become prominent as well as those in conjunction, thus it will at the same time be full tide, at i° & 1800. At 900 from each of these points it will be low tide or quadrature—the sun's attraction has a slight effect on the tides—one third less than the moon's—at new & full moon it joins its influence to that of the moon, hence the spring tides—in the second and fourth quarters, it acts in opposition & then we have Neap tides. At the Equinoxes the sun and moon being near each other attract more powerfully & occasion large tides—the Poles being far removed out of the sphere of attractions, or at least not sensibly affected by them—the tides in high latitudes are hardly perceptible. Sunday, December 9: S Lat: 36.43. W Long: 50.51. No prayers read today. Have been reading Abercrombie on Reasoning—the detection of fallacies &c. but having been frequently interrupted, could not without a second & more careful perusal, write out a summary of what he says. After dinner wrote part of a letter to Alick narrating the most striking incidents in the voyage. Since teatime have been reading Isaiah—prophecies of judgement against Moab, Egypt & Assyria—chap: xv to xix. Several birds seen swimming about ahead of us this morning. G. shot one of them—it belongs to the genus Procellaria—Two turtles seen & unsuccessful attempts made to catch them. Numbers of Molluscae floating past but not within reach of the basket & line. Monday, December 10: S Lat: 36.54. W Long: 51.3. Rose at 6 and examined the bird shot yesterday. [Description in detail follows here.] Finished Magendie on Hearing. Have been reading Maltebrun on the Atmosphere —have not made notes. Tuesday, December n: Supposed Lat: 37.28. Long: 52.3. Colour of sea between blackish green 49 & duck green 55. Maltebrun supposes the green hue to be occasioned by marine vegetables, the ordinary azure blue occasioned by the blue rays of the light which passes into the water being reflected while the other rays are absorbed. A schooner has been in sight this afternoon a considerable distance astern, but holding the same course—she is gaining on us. G. having broken his last thermometer last night asked me to give him mine, offering me the choice of several books or his Celestial Maps in exchange for it—Took the night to consider, & informed him this morning that he might have the use of it during the voyage & stipulated that I should have access to any of his books & that should the thermometer meet the same fate as the others while in his possession I would then take one of the articles offered in exchange—he at first agreed but afterwards asked a day to consider. Worked one case in Mid: Lat: Sailing. Read Magendie on Smell & Touch & continued Maltebrun on the Atmosphere—Blue colour of air or sky as- [72] cribed by Newton to the refrangibility of blue rays being greatest—other philosophers suppose that air has the property of combining with the blue rays of light. Evaporation—the comb: of water with caloric—is very strong under the Equator—Hube & some philosophers make a difference between tranquil evap: in which, the particles of water being transformed into an elastic vapor rise into the air, and tumultuous where the elastic vapors rising with great rapidity carry with them particles of water in their natural state—Evap: from some plants greater—from Helianthus Annuus 47 times more than from an equal extent of human body. Aqueous meteors as Mirage, Parhelions or false suns, Rainbow depend on the refraction & reflection of the solar rays in the clouds. In producing igneous meteors, that mysterious agent Electricity plays an important part by igniting the inflammable gases generated in the atmosphere & from the earthy surface. Many explanations of the Aurora borealis have been given—Professor Libes's altho' it does not reconcile all the phenomena, is the most satisfactory—he says and is so far correct that towards the Poles very little hydrogen is disengaged & the electric fluid in passing from the Eq: goes through a space occupied by a mixture of oxygen & azote—it combines these gases which form Nitrous Acid, or gas according to the proportions from which exhale the red & volatile vapors for constituting the Aurora—in the temperate zones, there is abundance of hydrogen which the Electricity combines with the oxygen forming Thunder & Lightning which are unknown at the Poles. On winds the polar & equinoctial currents similar to those of the sea meet at a right angle & form the NE & SE Trade winds. Understand the Monsoons of the Indian ocean now—see Oct: 30. When a large quantity of ox. & hydr. are united by Electr. a vacuum is formed, to fill up which the air rushes from all quarters & a dreadful commotion ensues, constituting what is called a hurricane—it is only within the tropics that they occur. M's general conclusion is the following—"All the irregularities displayed by winds pertaining to a place or region of the globe are nothing more than combined effects arising from the general atmospheric currents from partial interruptions of them, from the sun's apparent motion & the arrangement of mountains." Wednesday, December 12: S Lat: 38.48. W Long: 52.55. G. this mg. agreed to my proposal, being desirous to continue to note the tempr. of the air. I also requested that he would inform me of it twice a day. Worked some cases in Mid: Lat: Sailing. Read Magendie on sensation—Maltebrun on Climatology—the causes of climate are nine in number, but they form together a circle of which we cannot point out the first link nor the last, ist— the action of the sun upon the atmosphere, the air is but little warmed by the immediate passage of the solar rays through it—it derives its heat from the 73. reflection of the rays from the earth's surface, which are detained in the lower regions by the aqueous vapors floating about in the atmosphere. 2nd.—the internal temperature of the globe. This M. shows cannot depend on a central fire, he regards it as the result of the different degrees of heat, which the earth may have acquired from the successive action of the sun & which are accumulating in the course of the ages. 3rd.—the elevation of the land above the level of the sea. 4th.—the general inclination of the surface and its local exposures—in Northern Hemisphere, aspect from S.W. to N.W. warmest. 5th.—the position of its mountains relatively to the cardinal points. 6th.— influence arising from the nature of the soil. 7th.—the neighbourhood of great seas & their relative situation. 8th.—influence of the labors of man. 9th.— predominant winds. This evening, some large grey butterflies alighted on the rigging, saw many going to leeward, they probably have been carried by the wind from the coast of S. America (which is 210 miles distant). A large porpoise struck & hauled out of the water, but, by his vigorous struggles he extricated himself—the blood gushed from his back in torrents dyeing the water as it flowed past from stem to stern. A fish, probably the wounded one, was seen soon after taking prodigious leaps out of the water, and followed by a large bird. Thursday, December 13: S Lat: 39.38. W Long: 53.51. At 10 a stiff gale from S.W. sprung up when all sails furled, it continues violent all day. Clear sunshine, going with double reefed main topsail, trysail & reefed & mizen sheet—at 4 a shower of hail—from 4 till 8 lying to. 8, somewhat calmer—close reefed topsail set—the waves capped with foam had a majestic appearance as they rolled along, much higher than our bulwarks. Continued Magendie on Sensation & some notes by the translator on Sir C. Bell's theory of the Nerves—Maltebrun on the Physical changes which the surface of the globe has' suffered—fire & water, the chief agents in their production, the latter though noiseless, acts extensively—the sinking of bogs, subterraneous lakes & rivers,—the bursting of lakes & inundations & recessions of the sea are; examples of its action—M. after a laborious investigation of facts says "that the present sea is completely stationary, its level falls & rises from temporary causes, without any change in its general volume". Deluc's theory of the deluge is, that the ocean overflowing the ancient continent left bare the present one, on the highest peaks of which anchors & portions of vessels have been found. On volcanoes—have made notes at page 61. Friday, December 14: S Lat: 40.54. W Long: 53.7. Last night read Forster's life in the biography of Travellers—he travelled from Calcutta to the Mediterranean through Hindostan, Canbul & Persia &c. In his route he visited Cachemire & gives some account of the celebrated shawls—the goat I 74 S from which the wool is obtained roams among the rugged declivities of the Hindoo Koosh about a month's journey from Cashmere—it has been found to degenerate in France, Persia & other countries, where it was introduced— the shawls are woven in looms of which 16,000 were employed about 1770 or 80—three men at each, the patterns are afterwards sewed on, which is a tedious process, lA of an inch per day in some—about 80,000 are made yearly. Turned in at nVz but passed a sleepless night, owing to the ship's motion & creaking & groaning of the timbers. Put on my Cape Horn waistcoat today, but feel it rather heavy—still at Middle Lat: Sailing. Read in Maltebrun an account of the theories of philosophers regarding the formation of the earth—Deluc's the most generally received. On the geographical distribution of animals, it is proved that the interior of Africa & Asia possess each distinct races of animals—it is probable but the evidence is not conclusive that the northern upland plain of Africa, Mount Atlass, the western upland plain of Asia, Mount Taurus and the centre of Europe, the Alps also have or had, their peculiar tribes—the isolated continent of America cannot have been indebted to Asia for its animals—it must possess a creation of its own. Glanced over the book on Political Geography, shall copy some tables tomorrow and then return the volume to G. Two albatrosses seen today, birds very similar to the Puffin shot on Sunday, have been seen every day since. Saturday, December 15: S Lat: 42.14. W Long: 55.22. Have been almost prevented from studying by the heavy lurching of the ship—it was a difficulty even to keep one's seat & walking a dangerous business particularly in the tweendecks, where a quantity of molasses had been spilt, by the casks breaking loose from its fastenings. Finished Middle Latitude Sailing & began Mercator's—as writing was an impossibility in the forenoon took up the third volume of the Biography of Travellers & read the lives of Hanway the Russian & Persian Traveller & the intrepid Mungo Park. Have tonight been 3 months at sea & in that space have journeyed over a quarter of the globe's circumference from 520 N Lat to 42° S. I have made some advances in the acquirement of knowledge but it is mortifying to reflect on what I might have done had the attention been intensely applied at all times when I had a book before me—many an hour has been lost in idle and unprofitable reveries, which I am still too apt to indulge in. Having now concluded the first volume of Maltebrun, shall next week begin Richard's Elements of Botany—must also allot some time to the French Grammar. Have sailed since the 15th Ult: 2609 miles—from the Lezard Pt. 7122. Sunday, December 16: S Lat: 43.58. W Long: 54.18. Double reefed topsails. Read one of Paley's sermons on the Neglect of warnings & Some chapters in St. John's Gospel—shall continue to do this when prayers are not [ 75 J read to the crew. Read Abercrombie on Dreaming & Somnambulism—he relates some remarkable instances of dreams being fulfilled. Once or twice during the forenoon a whale manifested his proximity to us by blowing. After dinner he made himself visible—the sea was rolling eastward in large & regular undulations, its surface dashed up by the wind in foamy spray, the huge monster was sometimes seen riding almost on the top of a billow, and again coursing along in the trough of the sea—he was of a brown colour posty., white about the neck, in length about 40 feet—threw up the spray in blowing in a short bushy form & to no great height, which I understand is characteristic of the sperm whale—the oil sells for £80 a tun. Monday, December 17: S Lat: 45.22. W. Long: 54.39. Today the stove being erected in the cabin, we had a fire on, which made it uncomfortably warm below—besides that the stove has altered the position of the table & deprived me of my very convenient seat against the bulkhead, giving me instead thereby one having opposite qualities. (I must always have a hand & foot holding on by the table)—this concatenation of petty ills prevented my studying Navigation attentively. Examined a book on the subject, belonging to one of the sailors—it is full on Geometry & Trigonometry—if he is willing to part with it, shall purchase it, but it would not be right to use persuasives. Began the introduction to Richard's Elements of Botany, on the Anatomy of vegetables—authorities seem much at variance regarding the minute structure of plants—they are compd. of cellular tissue & parenchyma, three sorts of tubes which are all formed of cell: subst: those containing the sap, those containing the proper juices & those containing air, the existence of the latter is denied by some. Copied into Atlas from Maltebrun a table of the decrease of tempr. according to the altitude, & his estimate of the population of the five great terrestrial divisions, the "tottle of the whole" he makes 650 millions considerably less than Buchanan's. Returned the volume to G. Since Saturday we have seen several new birds, some of which have followed in our wake with the constancy of Mother Gary's chickens—of this species we yesterday saw a variety having the under wing coverts & the greater part of the belly whitish—it is somewhat larger than the first—our other attendants are two species of tern, one, G. thinks the Sterna Minuta, light grey, or leaden colored. A handsome bird, about the size of a blackbird, with long & pointed wings, very numerous about 3 P.M.—the other as large as a pigeon, whitish breast & belly—blackish wings, flies with great rapidity & close to the vessel —our occasional visitors are first, a bird entirely blackish, with the exception of bill, which is long & pointed—wings about the size of a hen perhaps the Procell: gigantea—second, a bird resembling the puffin—today for a short time a bird size of large tern, altogether white except tips of wings brown, [76] wings long, narrow & peaked—probably a tern—a large brown bird with black bill, almost rivalling the albatross in size—did not get a close view of him. A shoal of porpoises passed different from any yet seen, the snout, part of pectorals & belly were white, it seems to be the Delphinapterus leucor- amphus of Cuvier. Tuesday, December 18: S Lat: 46.53. Long: 56.2. Put the gun into working order, at Mercator's Sailing till 12. Read till 2. Magendie on the Brain, since then Richard on Roots, an account of the forms, different species & properties of roots—roots have the functions of fixing the plant in the ground & deriving by their minute radicles, nutritive juices from the earth, sometimes, especially in succulent vegetables, they only perform the first, various expts. have been made to ascertain why in germination the radicle is always directed downwards, in whatever position the seed may be placed—it is one of nature's laws which holds throughout with the exception of the missletoe & some parasites. Wednesday, December 19: S Lat: 48.3. WLong: 55.10. At 1 iVz last night more sail was set, but at midnight just after I had turned in, the wind veered from W. to S.W. & blew with great violence in squalls, all hands were called & sails furled. During the most severe squall the ship lay so much over that I had great difficulty in keeping in bed. Altho' I felt that the gale was tremendous, had no idea till this morning of the extent of our danger —if it had reached us before the sails were taken in, either the mast would have sprung, or the ship gone down—fortunately however the appearance of the sky forewarned the mate of its approach. Did not read on Navigation or Physiology being occupied most of the forenoon in angling for albatrosses & a penguin, and the remainder in reading the life of Le Vaillant, the Naturalist of Southern Africa. Could not succeed in hooking an albatross, altho' one which I afterwards shot, nibbled the bait frequently. After dinner there were six in our vicinity, one of a brown colour except the crown of his head, the others were all white with brown wings—several black petrels seen, but only one tern the Minuta—the Penguin was observed about 1 by Mr. Heath. It is a droll bird with a pert, bold look about the size of a widgeon duck—its bill hooked & as well as its dorsal aspect generally; of a reddish brown colour, belly & throat whitish, its wings very short & narrow like the anterior fins of a turtle, feet placed far back close to tail, which is short & pointed—it swam with great swiftness round about the stern, sometimes immediately under the surface, at others several feet below, rising at short intervals to breathe, when it cried "quack" like the domestic duck & taking short leaps out of the water —we threw over a baited hook—it came close under the jolly boat & darted at it but generally missed—about 2 it dropped astern & we saw it no more— 77 . from looking into Cuvier am inclined to suppose that it belongs to the genus Aptenodytes or les Manchots which are allied to the Alcae or Penguins, but have the wings shorter, the bill more curved, never resort to land but to build their nests & are found only in the Southern Ocean. Thursday, December 20: S Lat: 49.16. W Long: 54.22. After breakfast adjusted the albatross bait, afterwards at Mercator's Sailing till 12. Continued Magendie on the Brain & its functions & read a long note by the translator on Phrenology—he ranks amongst its opponents, shall peruse it more attentively when I take up Combe in favor of the Science if it deserves that name. Richard on the stems of plants. Three large cetaceae passed within 80 yards in an easterly direction—saw them blowing at a great distance. They threw up the water to a height of several feet—their dorsal fins were seen short & pointed. After tea had my gun in readiness, but no albatross came within shot, only 3 were seen today at different periods. They seemed shyer than usual—our winged train was altogether less numerous owing perhaps to the comparative mildness of the weather. Friday, December 21: S Lat: 50.15. W Long: 56.7. Went over several cases in Mercator's Sailing. Read in Magendie a short history of the mental powers & began the article on muscular contractility. Richard on the growth of the stem of dicotyledonous plants—three opinions divide the botanical world regarding the manner in which trees increase in diameter. Duhamel having passed a silver wire into the liber of a tree & brought out the extremities, found in a few years that the wire was in the wood of the tree, on this he founded the hypothesis that the growth is affected by the annual transformation of the liber into alburnum, of the latter into wood & by the successive renewal of the liber—this theory is the most generally taught & R. gives the arguments pro & con in detail. Duhamel expt. has been frequently repeated, but never with success so his foundation is unsound. Du Petit Thourars, that the growth in diameter is produced by the development of buds—it is supported by much ingenious argument but is not generally received. Mirbel imagines that it is owing to the cambium, which every successive year forms at once a new layer of alburnum & a new layer of bark —this fluid, the cambium, is formed by the descending sap mixed with part of the proper juices of the vegetable—in a young branch at the period of vegetation it is seen colourless & limpid at first, but gradually thickens and acquires consistence—it is supposed that Duhamel in his expt. passed the wire through the organic layer of cambium. Richard thinks this the most probable supposition. When I arrive at Fort Vancouver I can by expt. satisfy myself as to its correctness. A large piece of sea weed fished up this evening— the shape of the branch was obcordate, the stem cylindrical, about 1/3 in. [78: in diameter at base tapering towards point, about 5 feet in length, leaves alternate, going off at intervals of 4 in. at base—lanceolate dentate teeth on lower leaves, long & narrow—surface presenting irregular longitudinal depressions & furrows, the latter corresponding with the former on opposite surface, distal half of larger leaves covered with numerous hair-like transparent processes from 1/3 to 1 in. long, some of which were trumpet shaped at ends—interspersed amongst hairs were seen some short vermiform bodies, composed of small white globules suspended in a transparent viscid fluid— largest leaves 3 feet long, smallest about 10 in.—smooth at base & serrated at margins—all hairs have got a petiole which is dilated into a pyrifoam vesicle, in the largest about zVz in. long which floats it.—from looking into Linley on the Natural Orders suppose it to be the Macrocystis pyrifera, which navigators report to have seen from 500 to 1500 feet long. 22nd. Steeped a specimen of the weed in water till noon today—the fronds had absorbed between their lamella a considerable quantity of it—a greyish viscid matter coated the fronds & hairy processes & the vermiform bodies were somewhat shrunk, having now the form of a horseshoe, & the whitish globules becoming more apparent, they are probably the sporules, or seed vessels. Have preserved a specimen, saw portions floating past during day. Saturday, December 22: S Lat: 51.3. W Long: 56.59. As we have now a chance of meeting a homeward bound ship, wrote for an hour at Alick's letter, continuing the narration of our adventures during the voyage. Afterwards, the day being calm & the albatrosses & the puffins more numerous than usual, went on deck with my gun, fired at & winged a puffin, but the mate said he could not lower the boat altho' the captain left it to him, so the bird was lost—the sea was smooth & the albatrosses swimming on its glassy surface or sailing along the wide expanded pinions had a fine appearance —fired at one flying and another sitting, but missed. Winged another puffin. Between 1 & 2 packed up in blotting paper &c the macrocystis—its characters in Sprengels Genera Plantarium are "Frons foliata, vesiculis foliiferis, Sporangia foliis immersa, includentia spondiorum glomerulos" from Agardh. After dinner practised gymnastics with G. in climbing up the foremast stays. Read Richard on the growth of monocotyledonous stems. Saw 6 or 7 large whales to windward about 150 yards—they all had a dorsal fin, and spouted up the water in sheet of spray to the height of 7 or 8 feet—drifted away like columns of smoke. Took up my flute this evening & played some of Auld Scotia's beautiful airs—Ye banks & braes &c, Bonnie Prince Charlie &c. On the whole have been very idle today. The Captain is now looking anxiously for the Sandwich north Falkland Isles—at 8 we were within 15 miles of C79] Cape Corrientes in the island of Soledad, but the evening is hazy. The Spanish & English Charts differ as to their position. Sunday, December 23: S Lat: 52.19. W Long: 58.10. Last night being hazy & our position with regard to land uncertain, the vessel was hove to about 1 iVz & the deep sea lead thrown out, soundings were got at from 100 to 120 fathoms on a bottom of small sand & scales of shells—a great fuss was then made, the Mate was sure we were within three miles of the shore, where the soundings are 24 fathoms. In about 10 minutes after, the line was again hove but no soundings got with no fathoms. Lay to till zVz this morning & then, the breeze freshening, set sail steering S.S.W. G. & I remained up till 3 to witness the denoument; at that hour the land was not visible, altho' the rosy morn had an hour before tinged the eastern horizon—between 4 & five land seen. Did not see it till 10—owing to the thick haze—the western coast of Soledad is undulating, presenting a series of low sloping hills & rather extensive flats—towards the south it almost merits the appellation of mountainous. Numerous flocks of penguins were around us while passing, but very shy, diving when we approached within 40 or 50 yds. About n the puffins in a flock of several hundreds, skimming along, as we neared, they assembled in a dense group on the water about 120 yards off. Albatrosses, rather abundant, but shy. Read Paley on the proper interpretation of the scriptures—in a short discourse, he endeavours to show that many of the figures & allusions, in the new Testament, being taken from the then existing state of manners & society & the religion of Christ yet in its infancy are quite inapplicable to the present order of things so widely different & he condemns the trying to wrest from them a meaning suitable to present circumstances, but contrary to their original application, because as the fallacy is open to detection our faith in scripture may be weakened, or being believed, may lead us into very erroneous notions. Abercrombie on Insanity & Spectral Illusions—from 19 to 23rd chap, of Isaiah. Monday, December 24: S Lat: . W Long: . The barometer indicating a gale, preparations made to meet it. Tacked at 8 P.M. course W. by ( ? ). Flocks of the small tern have been close to leeward during the afternoon & penguins occasionally popping up. Had two hours employment in the forenoon repairing garments. Read Magendie on Muscular Contractility. Richard on Bulbs—Tubercles &c. which he considers not to be roots, but rather a species of bud, because their function is the same, viz to produce a new plant or shoot—he adduces other reasons and facts in support of this view of their nature—also a short account of the different modes of propagating plants artificially—in grafting the Cambium, by becoming organized unites the slip to the stock. The ladies now sit constantly in the Cabin & by [80] their conversation frequently interrupt my reading— a little of it is agreeable & profitable, but long continued, it degenerates into gossip. This is Christmas Eve & I have written thus far by daylight. I know not what they are about in Glasgow, but probably at Campbelton they have formed a festive circle & will not tonight at any rate omit the toast of "ships at sea". Tuesday, December 25: S Lat: 53.29. W Long: 61.34. Last night the ladies having joined us we drank to the health & prosperity during the approaching New Year of our friends at home. Have nearly finished Mercator's Sailing. Read Magendie on the Voice—from dinner till tea-time, read some of Burns's Songs & part of his life. His letters are interesting, they contain many striking observations on life & noble, honorable sentiments are met with which shed a lustre on the character of the bard. Richard on the leaves—their different figures &c, structure & uses—the skeleton is formed by the prolongation of a bundle of fibres—the parenchymatous substance by cortical matter. The lower surface absorbs & the upper exhales or transpires— in herbaceous plants both surfaces absorb. Yesterday in the forenoon steered the ship for an hour, receiving instructions occasionally from the helmsman— today attempted it when there was a heavy hard sea & a strong breeze—my instructor probably thinking of his dinner or his sweetheart, allowed the ship to be taken aback, & she wore round, thus nipping my growing reputation in the bud. Wednesday, December z6: S Lat: 54.11. W Long: 61.48. Sea rolling heavily N by E—either the fruit of a spent breeze or the avant courier of an approaching one. Engaged after breakfast in spreading adhesive plaster on canvas for the ship's course—our stock of medicines is very incomplete & should a fracture occur splints might be made, but don't think we are provided with cloth for bandaging. For a short time at Mercator's Sailing. Read Magendie on the Voice—the anatomy of the Larynx is intricate & I find reason to regret my not attending to it while in the Glasgow C.H. but surgical anatomy was then the chief object of study. Richard on the Nutrition of plants —the sap is absorbed by the many ramifications of the root, & passes up into the leaves through the woody layers & is most abundant in those nearest the pith in the leaves—it is deprived by transpiration of its thinner particles & suffers other changes. In descending it circulates in the cortical layers, constituting the proper juices of the plant—it forms & renews the Cambium which enacts so important a part in the growth of dicotyledonous trees. In the forenoon two birds of a pure white about the size of a partridge were fluttering about the yards, seemingly desirous to alight—they flew away out of sight and returned in a short time. Seeing them to be strong on the wing & not likely to alight, fired but missed whether owing to the rolling of the ship which was [81] I great, or bad Markmanship—can't say. G. thinks the bird is the Chionis Necrophaga Echassiers which he has seen at Edin. Museum—from its round, plump body & short broad wings it does seem like a Palmipede—very few Albatrosses or other birds seen—one or two penguins. Thursday, December 27: S Lat: 54. Long: 63.47. A strong current from S.W. as we passed through—the vessel was tossed like a cockle shell as we were then in the latitude of the straits of Le Maire, perhaps it was the Polar Current which pent up in the straits acquired greater velocity—after dinner saw the northern extremity of Staten Isle indistinctly & more clearly a group of small islets situated at the mouth of New Year's bay—all mountainous & each of a conical shape, reminding me of the cloud cap't peaks of Arran—were about 40 miles distant & on our nearer approach heavy fogs rendered them invisible. Worked some examples by Mid: Lat: & Mercator's Sailing—Read Magendie till 2—Richard on the Reproductive Organs of Plants. This evening a small bird (the Cape pigeon) passed close to us— beautifully speckled black & white on the back & wing coverts—think it the Procellaria capensis of Cuvier. Have not seen an Albatross today—altho' from our vicinity to the land it was expected that the birds would be numerous. Am now reading the first vol: of the Biography of Travellers—the life of Marco Polo is the most interesting yet come to—he lived in the 14th century & holding a high rank at the Mongolian Court, had frequent opportunities of traversing that empire, then in its "high & palmy state"—he gave, it is supposed, a correct account of the countries he visited, but in his native country, Italy, his veracity was doubted—the wealth of the Khan was prodigious—the precious stones being so abundant in some parts, that to prevent the depreciation of their value, only a certain quantity annually was allowed to be collected. Mare's milk among the Tartars like the salt of the Arabs & the calumet of the N.A. Indians is presented to strangers as an assurance of hospitality and good faith. 9V2 P.M. ship is again tossed by a current which rushes along rippling & foaming towards N.E. We must have been carried away by it, as we are now as far distant from Cape St. Juan as at 3. The captain supposes that we entered the current at 3—& have just passed its southern boundary, the ripple being occasioned by its concussion with the still water on each side. Friday, December 28: Lat: 54.41. W Long: 63.15. Whole eastern aspect of Staten Isle seen—it is rugged & mountainous—some of the summits rising to a considerable elevation. At both extremities it slopes away gradually terminating in the N. by Cape St. Juan. Finished the promiscuous examples for Mid: Lat: & Mercator's Sailing. Magendie—a brief dissertation on Mechanics introductory to the subjects of motion & attitude. Continued Rich- [82: ard on the Reproductive organs chiefly the modifications of form & position of different parts. As far as I have gone, am well pleased with the work & expect to find it very serviceable when I have to describe and examine plants. Engaged for sometime during afternoon in angling for albatrosses who were more numerous & owing to the breeze tamer than usual. Saw in the evening a small blackish bird—in size, mode of flight & general aspect, resembling a tern, probably the Sterna Nigra of Cuvier—it is somewhat tantalizing to see such a variety of birds within shot & yet uncomeatable. Saturday, December 29: S Lat: 54.47. W Long: 63.42. Now within 4 or five miles of S.E. coast of Staten Isle—the summits of the mountains are bare and craggy & present a diversity of shapes, their brow is clothed with a small stunted tree, which forms a close thicket, extending in some of the glens & passes nearly to the shores—the sides of the mountains are throughout very precipitous, here offering a bold perpendicular face to the ocean & there rent into innumerable fissures in which a few patches of green herbage are discernible. Where denuded of shrubs the sides afford subsistence to the moss & lichen & on the rocks adjoining the shore, a yellowish red lichen grows abundantly in some spots—the coast is indented with many small bays formed by the jutting out of steep headlands & one large widemouthed cavern is seen near S.E. Cape, where probably the albatrosses build their nests as there are constantly some flying out & in—the grouping of peaks towards S. Cape rising from square masses of barren rock have a striking resemblance to the turrets & battlements of a ruined castle. S. Cape about 1 o miles distant, a view of the south side of Staten now opened to us—an unbroken chain of conical peaks in the clefts & gullies of which heaps of snow are lodged, extend as far as the eye can reach westward—a hazy horizon soon limiting the prospect. The strata have a S.E. inclination, the peaks pointing N.W.—a species of wild duck about the size of a barnacle goose—back & wings black—breast whitish—pretty numerous in the morning while near the land. 8 P.M. a french barque supposed to be on a whaling expedition from the number of boats on her deck, was first seen yesterday evening—& is now two miles astern of us in our wake. Read Magendie on Motion till 4 P.M., Richard on Fecundation. The inhabitants of Staten Isle, Yacanncas, are of middling size & use the skin of the sea calf for clothing—they are so dirty that then- true colour cannot be distinguished. G. has calculated the height of the loftiest peak above Cape St. John 2580 feet, the northern most point on which patches of snow were observed. The calculation cannot be accurate, but probably the curve of congelation would be in this latitude (540 50') 3000 feet nearly the same as 63° (N. Lat) according to Prof. Leslie's table Siecle Atlas or 670 according to a table of Gardner's drawing up. 83] Sunday, December 30: S Lat: 55.34. W Long: 63.28. Western & southern aspects of Staten isle dimly seen, bearing N.E. At six came up with a brig first discerned yesterday forenoon from Maintop, she hoisted the Dutch flag, a tricolor red, white & blue, stripes placed horizontally. The french stripes extend in a perpendicular direction. The Frenchman passed within half a mile of us at midnight, the watch on our deck heard 8 bells struck—today we got ahead of him, but he is gaining on us. Till now the Ganymede has been invariably outsailed by every ship she came in sight of—she owes her present success to her having carried more sail than her competitors. In the morning during the squall & an hour after, several albatrosses approached close to us, but the bait had no attractions in their eyes. Read two sermons in Paley—one on Seriousness in Religion—the other on the duties of junior clergymen, being an address to those in the Diocese of Carlisle—in the rules of conduct recommended there is much that I can apply to myself. Abep crombie on the uncertainty of medical sciences, the causes of fallacy & modes of detection. Steered for an hour in the forenoon. Monday, December 31, 1832: SLat: 55.34. W Long: 64.35. Dutch brig far astern—Barque seen from royal mast in the morning to leeward, but reports as to her position contradictory. Began the study of compound courses. Steered from 12 till 1. Magendie on the motions of the vertebrae—sup & inf. extremities—Richard on the organs of Reproduction—the manner in which ovules become fecundated—Brongniart's supposition is that the Pollen adheres to the stigma, penetrates it & passes along its interstitial cellular substance until it reaches the ovule through an opening in the enveloping vesicle — in the ovule, when impregnated, small green specks form & uniting, constitute the embryo—B. hypothesis is generally admitted as correct, in those families, which have a powdery & glutinous pollen, but where it is nearly solid as in the Orchideae, there is perhaps an Aura pollenaria which fecundates —on the Pericarp, it is composed of three tunics, epicarp or epidermoid t. sarcocarp or vascular—endocarp or membranous in apples &c.—sarcocarp is fleshy & succulent, lining the endocarp is a placenta, or trophosperm, which nourishes the seed connected to it by an umbilicus called, according to its form, hilum, or arillus—the placenta receives sap from the vascular membrane by vessels perforating the endocarp. In a few hours this year will have terminated—it already has in Britain—it has been an eventful one in my life & how ungrateful I am to the Almighty for his manifold kindnesses to me & preservation from numerous dangers to which I was exposed. In January I was making application for a clerkship in the G.R.I. In February appointed clerk in Cholera Hospital where I continued till May. I was constantly exposed to the pestilence & saw the old & young, weak & robust equally sunk under its virulence, & hurried to their final audit, without a moment to prepare for the awful change, their excruciating sufferings prostrating both the mental & corporeal energies—only in one or two instances did I see the dying manifest any concern about futurity. I shall ever regret not having kept a journal during my attendance at the hospital, to have noted the impressions made by the many solemn & striking scenes I witnessed. No sooner had I left the C.H. than Dr. H. spoke to me about my present appointment—in the preparation for which, was engaged till August, when visited my native Shire & spent a delightful fortnight between Campbelton & Inverness pleased to escape from the hubbub & bustle of Glasgow—have already, but alas too briefly, chronicled the events of that happy fortnight, the recollection of which is "like a green spot in memory's waste" (Walker). Came to London on Septr. 8th & lived with my worthy Uncle A. whose kindness I shall not forget, till 15 th when embarked in the Ganymede at Gravesend. Tuesday, January 1, 1833: S Lat: 56.40. W Long: 65.1. Came up with the French barque—she is now about 3 miles distant on our weather beam—Dutchman out of sight astern. The Capt., G & self saw the New Year in—the C. spinning a yarn to us as we sat round the cabin stove about the adventures of his life, some of which he says would "make one's hair stand on end."—he is an obliging, well meaning & shrewd man, altho' a rough uncouth being, and a sad murderer of the king's english—shall when more in the mood, log some of his phrases, which are so amusing that they certainly should not be lost. Finished the working of Compound Courses & now for oblique sailing. Read Magendie on the influence of the different parts of the brain on Motion—he gives, as the result of numerous expts. on the inferior animals that in the mammalia & birds a wound of the corpora strata causes the animal to run forwards regardless of every obstacle, & only checked by a mechanical impediment—if the Cerebellum be wounded, it runs backwards in the same manner, wounds of either peduncles of cerebell: make the animal turn round in the direction of the wounded crus—wounds of Medulla oblongata have effects similar to those of Cerebellum. Richard—conclusion on Pericarp & on Seed. Since 7 endeavouring to shoot albatrosses, but gun missed fire, at the single chance I got. G. wounded two—a large whale, with dorsal fin, seen within 19 yards of weather quarter—on this day reflections on the bygone year arise & hopes & fears for the present one, the events of which are wisely hid in the womb of futurity—else our lot would be truly unhappy. Wednesday, Janaury 2: S Lat: 57.32. Long: 67.16. An iceberg seen about 8 miles distant bearing S by E—when first observed was declared to be a whale, a floating island, or a stray sail, but a nearer approach revealed its ss: true nature—the sea broke over its windward extremity with violence, the spray rising high in large broad swirls & the white foam rushing along its edges impetuously. Seen through a glass it appeared about the length of this deck—its surface flat & whitish. A man sent aloft could not discover any more. 9 P.M. Have just had another & better view—it is about 3 miles distant on the lee beam & now appears white all over, greater part of extent low & flat, but proximal end is broad & triangular with two jutting points & raised to a considerable height into a conical ridge. Worked one example in oblique Sailing. Finished Magendie on Motion. Continued Richard on the seed—shall tonight put some grains of barley in water to germinate & shall watch their progress. The ship rolled to leeward prodigiously in the afternoon —my goods & chattels in Cabin were all tumbled topsy turvy & the putting them to rights & chucking all fast occupied me for an hour. Some albatrosses came very near during the squalls & one if shot would have fallen on the deck. Presented once but missed fire & did not get another chance—must persevere. Thursday, January 3: S Lat: 57.54. Long: 68.10. Dense masses of dark clouds in western horizon, rendered lurid by the sun's departing rays—below these & bearing S. by W. there is a narrow space at verge of horizon clear & of a faintly greenish hue, which the Captain says indicates the proximity of ice—he calls it an ice sky. Are endeavouring to steer N.W. and may now write ourselves in the mighty Pacific & almost clear of the formidable Cape Horn. Got up this morning at 6Vz for the purpose of shooting albatrosses, fired once & made the feathers fly, but the quarry did not by his flight seem much injured. Engaged till 12 in rummaging & removing necessaries from trunks to portmanteau. Gave Mr. Heath some powder in exchange for swan shot & got a pair of shoes without iron heels from him, the article to be given in return not agreed on. Had two falls yesterday from the iron heels of my boots slipping on the wet deck, therefore thought it necessary to procure others. Began Magendie on the Functions of Nutrition & Richard on Germination—The elder Richard objecting but feebly I think to the division of plants by the nature of the cotyledons. Made the structure of the radicle the basis of classification in the Dicotoledonous embryo—the radicle is free hence these plants are denominated Exorhizae. The Monocot: are termed Coleor- hizae because their radicle is enclosed by a covering to which the name of [blank in manuscript] is applied. As the germinating corpuscles on the Acotyl: have no similitude to the seed properly so called, but partake more of the nature of Balbils, he calls them Agamous plants—this last innovation is in my opinion the best founded. Farther on he nullifies some of his own objections to the present mode of division. Friday, January 4: S Lat: 57.46. Long: 67.40. In the forenoon G. & I 86 practised shooting with ball at a bottle floating in the water. Did not break it altho' very near once or twice—the ship made no way but rolled unmercifully. At 12 an albatross came sailing along, scrutinizing the bottle to discover if it was eatable probably. I loaded with swan shot & fired it at him on the wing about 30 yards astern. He flew off seemingly unhurt, but dropped about a gunshot from us. The C. kindly ordered the boat out to get him. One can form no idea of the size & beauty of the bird from seeing him flying. The immensity of the ocean makes everything, which the eye scans in conjunction with it, look little & mean—this was strikingly exemplified in the bottle today which floating at a distance of 15 or 20 yards looked like an 8 oz. phial. The albatross when lifted on board appeared to have redoubled his bulk & was quite an armful to carry. [Description of dissection of bird here omitted.] Saturday, January 5: S Lat: 57.46. Long: 69.40. Been occupied all day in preparing skin of albatross—the quantity of subcutaneous fat was great & required to be carefully picked off as the cutis is thin, the muscular fibre dark red & tense—the generic name in Cuvier is Diomedea—which is characterized by the large, sharp-edged & articulated bill with marked sutures, (these are absent in present specimen)—& the total want of the hind toe, or thumb, & even of the short nail found in its situation in the Petrels—Cuvier mentions one species, the D. Eysilans with white plumage & blk. wings & says that albatrosses have been seen more or less brown or black but it has not been determined whether they constitute different species or merely varieties. I have seen them white except tips of wings which are brown—all white except tips of wings which are brown—all brown except crown of head, white—& altogether pieballed or speckled brown & white, first variety generally the largest, to which I think present specimen belongs, or else to a variety with white body & brown wings, which is the most common. Sunday, January 6: S Lat: 58.4. W. Long: 71.12. Read a sermon in Paley in defence of the distinction of rank in the Church—he argues ingeniously, but examines the subject only in a few of its bearings and these the most favorable. Finished Abercrombie on Medical Investigation—the cautions & rules offered are useful & important & merit a careful consideration. Shall reperuse the work in toto. Am going on with Isaiah—feel greatly the want of commentaries—as the drift of several passages is too obscure. Having been affected with headache all day—took a nap after dinner which relieved it. Monday, January 7: S Lat: 58.30 W Long: 74.5. The wind suddenly shifted from N. by E. to W.N.W.—coming in hard squalls. ... All sail taken in except maintry sail & topsail—the violence of the gale, preventing the waves from rising for some time, it was smoother than during the day— [87] . . . G. caught an albatross with hook & line—another hooked, but it escaped. Engaged till 2 P.M. with albatross skin. Since have been reading Richard on Germination & the classification of fruits. Shall not reperuse him till on terra firma—where it can be done more advantageously. Have finished the Biographies of Travellers. Tuesday, January 8: S Lat: 58.35. W. Long: 75.59. An iceberg seen on lee beam about Vz mile distant—it was probably 50 feet high and 400 long, seemingly covered with snow on surface—which was flat—its sides rugged and broken were of a light green colour—the appearance of the huge white mass reflecting the rays of the sun was singularly striking and beautiful. Engaged till 12 in performing small jobs about cabin. Read Magendie on Nutrition till 4—since then Richard on the classification of fruits, much remains to be done in this department of Botany & on Taxonomy—he gives a detailed account of the Systems of Tournefort & Linnaeus & the natural method of Jussieu—Tournefort arranged plants according to the form &c of the corolla & divided the herbaceous from the woody stemd. plants, which is erroneous as the nature of the stem is modified by circumstances. His system was superseded by the more simple & exact one of Linnaeus—in his the elder Richard made some alterations, the particulars of which are given in his son's work—have not compared the two sufficiently to judge of their merits. I understand from G. that the natural Method of Jussieu is alone followed in France. Wednesday, January 9: S Lat: 57.49. Long: 76.6. Worked an example in oblique sailing—from 12 till 2 engaged with albatross's skin & in preparing from a rope tow wherewith to stuff it. Read Magendie on Nutrition & Richard, a brief expose of Jussieu's method of classification according to the natural affinities. Shall borrow from G. Lindley on the Natural Orders and must study the subject with care & attention. Have got from G. & commenced last night to read the 2nd vol: of Maltebrun on Asia, require to have my atlas constantly at hand in this pursuit. With favorable winds, we may expect in two months to arrive at the Sandwich Islands and then farewell to regular and uninterrupted study—let me then endeavour to employ this intervening period to advantage—Think, I must for the sake of Geography retrench an hour on the time allotted to Navigation altho' it is curtailed by our not breakfasting till nearly 9 owing to the dilatoriness of our filthy stewd. We shall soon get into warm weather & then dispensing with the use of the stove, the enticing conversation of the ladies will not withdraw me from my occupations —have succeeded in curbing its flow in some measure but not yet sufficiently, our noble Captain's polished phrases too frequently afford us irresistible matter of laughter, for instance "the poor fellow got his harm terribly 'maciated"— a host of others might be remembered, but a truce to this nonsensical scribbling—the task would be profitless. Thursday, January 10: S Lat: 57.5. W Long: 76.33. Sat up last night till 12 reading Maltebrun on the physical Geography of Asia. In central Asia the climate is intensely cold, consequently the energies of its inhabitants being well developed—they have from time to time issued from their desert wilds & with ease conquered the slothful & luxurious inhabitants of the Southern & Eastern parts, but each successive horde quickly adopted the manners of the vanquished & becoming enervated—left the way open to those whom necessity & the love of plunder urged to follow the same course. Began Current Sailing. Prevented by excessive rolling of the ship from finishing albatross's skin. Continued Magendie on Nutrition—M. gives in the aphoristic form the results of his expts. on dogs &c. with reference to digestion & confines himself strictly to matters of fact—there may be other physiological works written in a more flowing & engaging style & more calculated to keep alive the attention—but among those I have seen, M's is undoubtedly the most philosophical & the best fitted for giving the student correct habits of thinking, judging—Richard on the Inembryonate plants—they are arranged into ten families, beginning with the Algae or Hydrophytae, the lowest in the scale & ending with the characeae which some botanists have classed among the Embryonate. Last night the mice discovered & feasted on the barleycorns which were just beginning to germinate & the few which were spared were upset today. G's albatross was maliciously thrown over board last evening by one of the sailors—one of our two bad uns Stokes and Forman against whom the circumstantial evidence was strong, being charged with it today, denied it stoutly & with infinite insolence. These fellows are continually breeding disturbance. Friday January 11: Lat: 55.49. Long: 75.38. Engaged till 2 with albatross's skin—fear that my labour will be lost as the neck skin which has been inverted is now so dry & shrivelled that the head cannot be forced back, & very likely the violence used in my attempts has greatly injured the head & neck feathers—this teaches one the necessity of promptitude in such matters— the delay was partly occasioned by the badness of the weather, but chiefly by my own indolence, or want of perseverence which made the former an excuse for procrastination. Magendie on Nutrition—the change of the food into chyme in the stomach & the processes carried on in the small intestine—regarding these also there is abundance of conjecture, very little is known with certainty. M. has observed in dogs the passage of chyme into the duodenum —it occurs slowly & at short irregular intervals—a contractile movement is first seen of pyloric extremity of duodenum & that of stomach, by which con- [89: tents of former retrograde—this motion is then reversed & a portion of chyme conveyed into duodenum—Acetic Acid has the greatest similarity in its effects on aliments to the gastric juice. Richard on the natural arrangement of the Monocotyledoneae. Have been chatting with the ladies about the Sandwich Islds.—the practice of tatooing never in great force there, is now declining— the leaf of the candle nut is the substance employed called curin—they knock a tooth out, or burn a ring in their cheeks on the death of a great person— excellent arrow root is obtained there from a root similar they say to the potatoe, & cocoa nut trees are abundant. Saturday, January 12: S Lat: 55.34. W Long: 75.23. Have all day had a stiff gale causing the ship to roll greatly—this morning during a tremendous lee lurch a keg of shot kept in my cabin knocked out the bulk head & rolling to leeward, broke G's bottle of preserves. Got the carpenter to repair damaged bulk head after breakfast & was engaged till nearly 11 in putting things to rights—afterwards read Norie on Charts—Magendie on Nutrition—Yesterday had an argument with Mrs. Taylor on the belief in supernatural appearances—she today gave me a paper to peruse on the subject in the Literary Magnet for 1826—During the evening have been glancing over the volume—in it are some beautiful pieces of Poetry by Mrs. Hemans. Like particularly the Return of Spring which abounds in fine imagery & just reflection & the Maniac, a sublime & touching effusion—the prose articles are mediocre—This is Alick's 19th birthday. I hope poor fellow he is well & profitably employed in some of the studies I recommended—he will now be left much to himself, when my father is engaged in business or otherwise. Our mutual friend Ponton has doubtless long ago crossed the Atlantic. Have been lying to since 7.—it now blows furiously & she ever & anon ships a heavy sea. Sunday, January 13: S Lat: 56.7. W Long: 76. Wind violent during night—maintopsail nearly rent in twain—Lay to all night—Did not sleep much & was applied to at 6 A.M. by a man (Forman) with toothache— Extracted the tooth at 8—during the operation, the ship lurched to leeward & the patient slipping through my hands rolled headlong full bang against the unfortunate bulkhead of my cabin, but neither party sustained any serious damage. No breakfast till nearly 10, nor dinner till 3—the steward is a stupid, thoughtless creature & what is worse exceedingly filthy in every sense of the word—he was a foremast man & was promoted to his present office, for which he is totally unfit, about 6 weeks ago, the first steward being cashiered or broken for the vice of drunkenness. Read in Paley a sermon on the dangers incidental to a clerical life—the first pointed out is the not applying the exhortations addressed to the congregation to themselves & from fre- [90] quent repetition their own convictions or rather meditation on what is delivered not being sufficiently lively—2nd—In the anxiety to convince others—the assuming an overearnestness in manner & seeming conviction greater than what is really felt, which in moments of reflection may give rise to doubtings— 3rd—In professional studies—4th—The being unaccustomed to habits of active life & consequently active virtue—5th—The performing religious duties from the motive of affording an example to others—on all, but especially the last head he dilates with great truth—the practice alluded to is becoming too general among the higher orders, he says—the motive which as a secondary one is praiseworthy, but were it solely acted on would be quite inadequate to the desired end & highly pernicious to the individual as leading to infidelity, our great incentive ought to be the desire to perform the Almighty's will for our own salvation & then we will naturally be anxious that others should follow our example. Read Abercombie on the characters constituting a well regulated mind. Monday, January 14: S Lat: 55.50. W Long: 76.33. This morning at 4V2 it blew a hurricane—was nearly pitched out of bed several times. Called to see Mrs. Taylor at 6Vz who was unwell—she is now better. Read Norie on Charts &c—skimmed over the article on Maritime Surveying—commenced that on Astronomy—From 12 till 2, angling for albatrosses—hooked one & nearly caught him several times—but the hook being straightened, did not hold—he did not profit by experience, & a new hook being put on was caught during dinner. Observed that the albatrosses had considerable difficulty in alighting & if flying about 20 feet above the water's surface were obliged to wheel about & return, almost skimming the mountainous billows. Ever since the commencement of stormy weather, the small grey tern has been our constant attendant & at times the large one mentioned in journal of Dec. 17 has for hours tracked our course. Examined albatross's skin this evening & found it unworthy of preservation, cutting off the head, wing & leg, which are now macerating & threw the remainder overboard. Tuesday, January 15: S Lat: 54.32. W Long: 76. Had an hour's occupation in the forenoon making alterations & improvements in cabin— Got out Ure's Dictionary & Arnot's Physic to elucidate some subjects on which in the course of conversation lately, have found myself rather ignorant, a hydrometer is used for ascertaining the specific grav: of fluids—this formula of calculation is wt. hydr. adjusted in distilled water: iooo::wt. hyd: adj: In any other fluid to sp: gr of that fluid — a phial accurately fitted with a glass stopper having a part which fits in neck of phial, a slight circular groove to denote the rise & fall of contents, is frequently used & [91] is best for corrosive fluids—Fahrenheits hydr: a more complicated instrument is also described by Ure—a hygrometer unnoticed by Ure is stated by Arnot, as intended to show the quantity of moisture in the atmosphere, by its dilatation, or contraction, a human hair connected with a graduated index has been found to answer well. Read Arnot on the Steam Engine—the expansive force of steam or vapour is Vz oz. to the sq. in. at 3z°, 15 lbs at 2120 & 90 lbs. at 290°—thus the ratio of expansion increases greatly as the tempr. rises—in high pressure engines, which tho' the simplest, are unsafe for the risk of the boiler's bursting, steam of 100 lbs to sq. in. or upwards is employed, & being discharged from working cylinder into atmosphere has to overcome its pressure, equal to 15 lbs. To low pressure engines, in which the expansive force of steam must not exceed 20 lbs. is attached a condenser, constantly receiving stream of cold water & into which the steam is conveyed from cylinder—this is one of Watt's greatest inventions—it does away with the loss of 15 lbs in opposing atmospheric pressure, but renders the machine so much the more complicated, that nearly half its power is expended in overcoming friction & other impediments, while in high pressure engine only 1/6 lb. is lost in that way. In double engines the steam having completed the stroke of one piston is forced into another cylinder, there to perform the same act—Arnot's description of structure of Steam Engine is plainly & easily understood, being illustrated by figures. Gave Mr. Heath return for the shoes, got from him a pair of excellent scissors & the fur cap bought at Milngavie on the never-to-be-forgotten pedestrian tour to the Trosachs in 1831 with my friends Forsyth, Jephson & Walker. Read Magendie on the deglutition of air—tried the expt. & I think succeeded for cardialgia, a symptom which occasions in many, immediately supervened. Last night prepared one of the albatross's quills & have written with it tonight. It answers well as the writing may testify. Wednesday, January 16: S Lat: 54.30. Long: 76.29. Read Norie on the dip of the horizon, Refraction & Parallax—& the Tides—Shall at present omit studying Maritime Surveying & The Tides—& begin tomorrow with reading on the quadrant—Since 12—Magendie on the Chyle & Lymph both subjects especially the latter are still involved in great obscurity—the chyle flows slowly, when remd. from thoracic duct—is of a pale rose colour, separates soon into a clot & a thin fluid which is coated with an oily matter on its surface, when the aliments have been of a fatty nature the coagulum is found in increased quantity—when fleshy substances have been digested after a brief exposure to the atmosphere, coagulum assumes a red colour and fibrinous texture similar to the fibrin of the blood. In animals deprived of food, the gastric juice & mucus of small [ 92: intestine are converted into chyle. Alcohol increases the secretion of these substances & therefore the quantity of chyle but is not itself absorbed—if an animal has fasted for several days, lymph alone is found in duct—Duct may be tied in horses without causing death—the chyle being conveyed into subcl: vein by numerous small chyliferous tubes—Magendie by a series of exact expts. on dogs, proves that solution of Nux Vomica is not absorbed by lacteals but by veins—he opposes the assertion of J. Hunter that the lacteals absorb fluids indiscriminately & renders it probable that they imbibe chyle alone—the mode in which the act of absorption is performed is unknown altho' hypotheses are not wanting—Grey terns numerous, seen flitting about in all directions as far as the eye can perceive them, wherever a whale is seen they congregate around him & devour his excrement which being oleaginous floats. Have now weathered Cape Noir which has proved more formidable to us than the redoubted Cape Horn & as a Southwester has sprung up, may hope soon to get beyond the limits of the stormy regions of the South. Thursday, January 17: S Lat: 53.8. W Long: 76.57. Read the description of Quadrant and studied the rules for finding latitude by observation—from 12 till 2, walked quarter deck — discharged & cleaned gun —Richard on Nat: orders till teatime. Since then have been chatting with the ladies about Mr. Douglas MacKenzie of Dundonnell whom they met in London—& what is one of their favorite topics, the manners of the Americans, which at Oahu they have had tolerable opportunities of observing & represent in no favorable light, of course making some exceptions. Sitting to leeward today half my attention has been required to preserve my seat, against unexpected & sudden rolls & lurches so, having only a moiety for Richard, thought it best after tea to lay him aside. Since Tuesday G. has been rather cool in his demeanour, being unconscious of having given any occasion, shall if it continues, request the reason, as such a state of things is to me very disagreeable. The steward despite of being made the butt both of our jokes & reproofs for his filth & forgetfulness, persisting in the same course was today banished to the more congenial atmosphere of the forecastle & Clewitt, whom adversity seems to have purified, restored to his former office. Friday, January 18: S Lat: 53.23. W Long: 78.6. Borrowed Mr. Heath's hermaphrodite Sextant & compared it with Norie's description, learn't to adjust it. Since 12 have been sharpening penknife & the scalpels which were injured in skinning albatross & cleaning the set of Tooth Instruments given me by Uncle A. & which he used while engaged in practice. There is a neat Key with claw moving on a pivot—3 pairs of forceps of [93] different shapes & sizes—4 silver probes & another small instrument whose use I do not understand. Last night—Enquired at the C. the duties of the Brethren of Trinity House—he says they are chiefly the erection & keeping in repair of light houses, buoys &c. throughout the United Kingdom—in some instances they merely give directions & then the corporations of the neighbouring towns are the executive. Merchantmen are assessed at a certain rate per ton to support their funds. They examine & license the Thames Pilots & have the management of a fund for disabled seamen. G. mentioned in contradiction to the Captain that the lighthouses in Scotland are under the control of a body entitled the "Commissioners for Northern Lighthouses", who have no connexion with Trinity House—G's reserve continuing after breakfast I requested an explanation—he ansd. that there were one or two circumstances he would speak about in the evening, when we are alone. Albatrosses have been numerous, they feed greedily on human excrement—our hook & line were drop't overboard by the luckless Peter three days ago—unintentionally he says. We have been very unfortunate at meals today, the sudden rolls & lurches upsetting the dishes, now & then, helping some hapless wight to a plateful of bread or potatoes, or a lap- ful of soup or gravy or hot tea. I have escaped all these unwelcome visitations altho' my seat is most awkwardly placed. Saturday, January 19: S Lat: 51.34 W Long: 78.40. Have been rattling along since last night at 5 & 6 knots with a smooth sea & pleasant weather & the change from such a term of boisterous & unsettled weather, is by all felt agreeable. The Cabin floor & tweendeck which for a month past have been abombinably dirty today received a thorough purification, the steward has as yet acquitted himself satisfactorily in every respect— engaged till nearly 4 in cleaning Tooth Instruments—since have been reading Magendie—one of the tooth forceps is for extracting front, another for back teeth—the third serves for getting away fragments—G. stated last night that conversation between the ladies was always put a stop to by his coming into the cabin & asked why it should be so—I explained why in particular instances it was & gave it as my opinion that from his reserved manner twds. them at times his presence might check the ladies' conversation, but that except in the cases mentioned, I had no wish that it shd be stopped—however more than once, when I thought it unseasonable, have been glad that his approach terminated it—this shall inform him of. Sunday, January 20: S Lat: 50.6. W Long: 78.8. Was roused this mg. at 3V2 by Mr. Heath to see a porpoise just caught, as he said the men were going to cut it up immedy. thought it necessary to go on deck to prevent this & induced them to postpone operations until after breakfast [94] so that all might have an opportunity of seeing it—About 9 G. & I armed them with carving knives & making the carpenter's bench our shambles, proceeded to work. (Detailed description of porpoise follows here)—from the desire of the Captain to have the offals thrown overboard speedily our examination was very cursory & many interesting objects passed unobserved. On opening thorax left auricle of heart & lung of same side were found to have been transfixed by harpoon—heart much larger than fist, very firm trachea voluminous—right lung distended with air & blood- in pleura costalis numerous capillaries gorged with a purple fluid, diaphragm large & very muscular. Pharnyx very muscular, but not capacious—calibre of it and Esophage inferior to that of windpipe—Stomach length bruised crammed with a heterogeneous mass of remnants of fish, a substance somewhat resembling hemp, but supposed to be nerves of Thalassophytae—closely pressed & matted together—and a semidigested matter, whose nature could not be discovered—contents of smaller intestine not exposed—Mesenteric glands placed in a row extending along root of mesentry—on being cut a white milky fluid escapes & numerous chyliferous vessels full are seen to enter them—No cecum observed—calibre of bowels nearly the same throughout —length of intestinal digestive canal 60 ft.—Liver large, pale brown, divided into two principal lobes—no gall bladder—ovaries large seemingly composed of lobules connected together by cellular substances. Did not see other viscera—have preserved a portion of the skin, head & superior extremity. The specimen belongs to the genus Delphinapterus distinguished from the Phocenae by the absence of dorsal fin alone—to the species D. Leucoramphus which has the colour described & from—38 to 42 teeth in each row—First saw the species on 17th dec. in Lat: 45.42 Long 54.39. —frequently observed them since then — an eclipse of the sun was visible today from 4V2 P.M. till 6Vz P.M.—the greater portion obscured was 27°—watched the moons progress from its first overshadowing sun's disk, until the effects of its darkening influence had altogether disappeared. Last night Stokes & Forman, alias Peter—the latter upbraided the former with having said that if he possessed his knowledge he would have taken the ship before then—there is reason to believe that the villain meditated such an attempt at the outset & that his behaviour on the 20th Oct. was intended to sound his comrades' feelings—he has all along been very unruly & finds a good tool & coadjutor in Peter. Monday, January zi: S Lat: 48.56. W Long: 77.38 (Detailed description of petrel here) 9 P.M.—a glorious sunset—a squad of porpoises just passed. This morning albatrosses numerous & bold, approaching within 5 yards of stern & fearlessly devouring pieces of pork thrown overboard 95. —after breakfast, they assembled into groups one on each quarter & it being almost a dead calm G & I having got the Captain's permission to lower the boat accompanied by Mr. Heath & one of his watch pulled away for the largest assemblage with arms &c—on nearing them, we met one or two scouts, but disdained to fire expecting to pour a destructive volley into the midst group, but the divan was broken up & the birds scattered, each making the best of his way toward the boat. Turning broadside to them —we all three fired. G. missed fire. H. missed mark & I killed my bird— the others dispersed. Soon after G. killed one on the wing & M. Heath & he again fired at one & did execution. We now began to look out for other game, & a brown bird, the size of a pigeon, with long narrow wings —was fired at several times in vain—at the puffin described above, we let fly more than a dozen times uneffectually—its rapid & unsteady flight & the short pitchings of our bark in a heavily undulating sea—baffling the aim—at length I succeeded in hitting one—forgot to mention in description, that it was minus a leg from middle of tarsus—extremity of which is covered with a thick strong cutis—G. & I discharged at some stormy petrels, one struck, which he got — were by this time 4 miles distant from ship & a light breeze springing up—Put about & pulled towards her at first stopping when game was within reach—I fired & missed an albatross but finding that wind was increasing, put off jackets & pulled lustily for half an hour. I then took gun and looked for prey. G. continued rowing. Some large brown birds such as we frequently see passed, but not within shot. Mr. H. fired once at some small grey birds in a flock of 8 or 10 & flying 8 yards above surface. They appeared less even than Mother Cary's chicks—have seen individuals of same kind once or twice lately. After a hard pull reached ship about Vz past 12—& enjoyed getting on board, quaffed a tumbler of porter with great relish. It was a pleasant & beautiful sight to look from our frail bark on the open ocean at the Ganymede with her tall mast & ample white sails, blanched by the late storms within whose narrow compass our habitation has been for the last 18 weeks—with me, from the novelty of many objects, but chiefly, the having constant occupation, the time has been very agreeably spent but the expedition of today is what I have long been wishing yet scarcely hoping for. Before dinner cleaned gun with warm water and find it the quickest & most complete way. During afternoon examined puffin. Rummaged chest No. 2, got out dissecting gown, hammer, skinning knife &c & made preparations for tomorrow's labours. Have certainly got my hands full of employment now as I propose preserving skin of one bird & skelton of the other. Two great errors in the plan of today's expedition were not pulling ahead of the ship & keeping always in her [96: neighbourhood, she forming the great centre of attraction to the birds, & omitting to take some stingo or what the C. calls "Essence of life" with us, the want of it was soon felt. Ate some porpoise beef at breakfast, it was tender & though not so juicy as a beefsteak, yet much better then was expected. Tuesday, January 22: S Lat: 48.47. Long: 79.15. After breakfast took dimensions of three albatrosses & they are all similar in colour which is white, with narrow bars on neck, breast & back—blackish brown wings & a brown spot on vertex—the disposition and number of the dark transverse lines is different in each bird & the neck feathers below ear in one are a dingy greyish brown—but the brown vertex is found in all & seems characteristic of the variety, which is the most abundant of any. Have been engaged all day in preparing an albatross skin No. 2. Dimensions—No. 1 for dissection extent 97 in.,—length 3 ft. in.—No. 2 skinned—96 in., 3 ft. 8 in.—No. 3—G's 97 in., 3 ft. 6 in. Thus they measure less than the specimens of speckled winged variety formerly examined, which appear when on the wing to be the largest. Were followed during the forenoon by a train of about 30—the spine of porpoise, which was towing astern, perhaps attracting them. Passed two large flocks of dusky brown birds, larger but resembling in form the bird shot at yesterday—they were flying, actively wheeling about apparently in pursuit of prey. Large shoals of porpoise seen. Fired once with ball at an albatross & missed. G. peppered away with swanshot & murdered four. Have received from Mrs. Taylor a thread & needle case she has worked for me, will find it very useful. Wednesday, January 23: S Lat: 48.26. W Long: 81.30. After breakfast cast a few bullets—till 2—preparing puffin's skin—after dinner— I along with G. had some ball practice at albatrosses.—having missed several times, we both fired at the same instant and the bird dropped—each unconscious that the other had discharged, took the credit to himself & it was not till we met below after some amusing debate that the mystery was cleared up, we then agreed, that he who killed the next should be considered as the successful marksman in the disputed case & after a few misses I knocked one down. Two porpoises transfixed in the evg. one writhed himself off the harpoon & was seen leaping out of the water, bleeding in torrents—the other we hauled on board & the tars cut him up with greater expedition than the last, rejoicing at the prospect of another blow out. Have got the spine & tail towing over the stern—an attempt was made tonight to cast G's adrift —every thing of smaller size hung over has disappeared, the strings being evidently cut. Stokes & Peter are the suspected criminals but no proof is as 97. yet obtained. Asked by the ladies the cause of G's hauteur towards them, whether it arose from my being called to see Mrs. T. when unwell— informed them that he felt hurt on that point, but that I explained how it came about—They said at the time I was first spoken to, G. & they did not interchange words. It is disagreeable to be referred to abt. the matter. I feel it my duty to be as attentive to them as possible & endeavour to enliven them at times yet unworthy motives may be attributed to me—it is proper in all circumstances, but particularly during a tedious voyage for people to try to make each other comfortable. Do not think G's conduct in this respect right, nor warranted by any thing he has mentioned to me. Thursday, January 24: S. Lat: 47.8 Long: 81.57. Informed G. last night of my conversation with the ladies—he still maintains the same distant demeanour to them. Stuffed skin of the puffin—the down is of a dark grey throughout—cleaned & sewed up holes in skin of albatross—as I cannot have turpentine, must broach jar of arsenical soap, With proper precautions, this will not be attended with danger. A Southseaman homeward bound passed within 3 or 4 miles this forenoon. Albatrosses abundant—two caught with hook & line. After writing up journal now read Fivas' Beautes des Ecrivains Francais—the exercise will be beneficial & the selections are good. Read Magendie on the Circulation for a short time. Must commence the dissection of albatross tomorrow. Friday, January 25: S Lat: 46.29. W Long: 81.57. Deserted by the albatrosses, a solitary one only appearing occasionally—having glutted themselves yesterday on the carcasses of their departed friends, they have perhaps visited their mates on shore, or, the whaler we passed yesterday may afford them food more to their liking. Occupied till 2 with relics of porpoise,—cleaning skull and superior extremity. Since, read Magendie but not for a length of time, nor with much attention. Having met in Fivas with an extract from Belisaire, which interested me got out my copy & perused several pages, the narrative is entertaining & the moral excellent—the character of Belisaire is well delineated—it is almost too good for human nature unenlightened by the mild & purifg. rays of Christianity, but a few great & good examples, Socrates, Aristides &c. afford features for the picture—the sentiments expressed by Belisaire on a man's duty towards his country, while a guest of the disaffected Roman officers in the Thracian Chateau, are just & noble & his meeting soon after with Gelimer, the captive king of the vandals in the humble garb of a peasant is a striking instance of the vicissitudes of life. Doffed Cape Horn dress. A whale about 30 feet in length within 15 yards at 4 P.M. seen at great advantage during the calm. 98] Saturday, January 26: S Lat: 46.2. Long: 82.26. Till 2 P.M. dissecting albatross No. 1—species of Temminck Diomedea [description in detail follows here]. Read Magendie in afternoon on circulation in veins & their absorption which from expts. made cannot be doubted. Must get on briskly with dissection &c so as to return to Navigation & Botany before recently acquired impressions begin to fade. Sunday, January 27: S Lat: 44.30. W Long: 84.54. Had occupation during forenoon in getting some damages in cabin occasioned by the heavy rolling of ship all night repaired by carpenter. Read in Paley a sermon on our duty to God & man preached at the Durham Assizes. He dwells chiefly on the importance of seeking each in his station, for opportunities of doing good to our fellow creatures. This duty incumbent on all is particularly so on the rich & powerful, as to "whom much is given from him much will be expected" & greater will be the reward or punishment according as the talents have been employed. He points out some differences between divine & human laws, the former are comparatively few in number, simple & easily comprehended—calculated to induce a certain state of mind, which ensures a correct line of conduct under every variety of circumstances, the latter being constructed & interpreted by fallible men instead of an Omniscient Judge—chalk out as it were the course to be pursued in every supposable case and are necessarily numerous & complicated. The Alcoran is constructed on the same plan, containing 75,000 precepts & shows the futility of its application to religious purposes. He sets out with this explanation & concludes with an exordium on the advantages of trial by jury. During afternoon reading religious & moral pieces in Fivas, mostly extracted from Chateaubriand's Genie du Christianisme, a work I desire much to peruse & B. Pierre's Etudes de la Nature—a piece by Thery on the Rich & Poor illustrates Paley's sermon, the duty of the rich is to relieve the wants of their brethern instead of indulging in luxurious excesses & a gratifying & heart satisfying task it ought to be. Thery depicts in strong colors the condition of the poverty stricken shunned by all, as if misfortune were contagious. During forenoon felt more tedium & ennui than have yet—indeed it was the first attack, but completely disappeared with the bad weather. Have been chatting with the ladies on the changes observed in one's native place after several years' absence. Monday, January 28: S Lat: 44.57. Long: 86. After breakfast had my hair polled by steward, who is an able tonsor as well as possessing the various qualifications of a cook, butcher, baker & mariner. Engaged till 2 with albatross, which hope to finish tomorrow as it smells very offensively to the lieges—think that the time requisite for dissecting it carefully would 99 be better applied to my ordinary studies. Sternum being left entire, thorax not minutely explored. Did not observe any orifice which seemed to communicate with air cavities in Abdomen. Have preserved trachea & larynges. During afternoon have been reading Magendie on Respiration. Reed, from G. last night some account of the French Academy—these are L'Academie des Sciences & des Belles Lettres of which the number of membres is indefinite. Members of L'Academie Francaise are limited to 40 native & 8 foreign, which greatly enhances the honor of belonging to it—they are elected for life. In the Royal Society London members are elected by ballot, the entry money is £50 & admission is not difficult. Tuesday, January 29: S Lat: 44.45. Long: 88.42. Small puffins numerous all day. By 12 got carcass of albatross into macerating tub. Till 2 cleaning sup exty. & inferior maxilla of porpoise—since, reading Magendie on Respiration and the arterial blood—my attention regret to say flagging too often. M. says little on the chemical phenomena of Respiration—he states Crawford's theory but without naming its author and makes no allusion to Brodie's expts. & obs: regarding the influence of the nerves on the production of animal heat. Gives some important facts on sections of 8 th pair, animal dies in three or four days when both are divided at once—lives for several months when one only is cut but then section of second kills it in a day or two & on examination lung first operated on is found rendd. incapable by morbid alterations of structure of performing its functions—other authors assert that if nerve on one side be cut a month after that on opposite, the lung first paralyzed resumes its duty & the animal continues to live—cicatrization taking place. M's expts. contradict this affirmation. Going on with Fivas. Wednesday, January 30: S Lat: 43.9. Long: 87.20. Removed a quantity of flesh from spine of porpoise, from which while towing astern— the heavily rolling billows carried off about a dozen veterbrae. Cleaned & stuffed with hemp laryngeal apparatus of albatross. Got out arsenical soap & mixed some with water for anointing albatross's skin tomorrow. Continued Magendie on Respiration, which he treats of after tracing course of blood to termination of pulmonary artery & the circulation. He seems opposed to the opinion that the arteries are muscular, the translator gives a synopsis of the arguments pro & con, but several especially those against are irrelevant & contradictory—that the small arteries possess a contractile power distinct from that of the heart is indisputable—to determine whether this depends on their muscularity or not, an exact definition of the term muscularity must be given & when that is agreed on, the question could [ 100 ] m soon be decided. With regard to the degree of that the act of inspiration has in drawing the blood into the right auricle—the translator endeavours to prove that Carson overrates it. Shall tomorrow peruse essay on the circulation read before College Med: Socy. where Carson's opinions are stated at length. The fire has been dispensed with today and tonight the ladies have retreated to their own dominions which considering the state of patter[?] I regard as advantageous. The Steward being laid up with a contusion of leg prepared my own bed. Can do this expertly having served an apprenticeship to it during the late steward's servitude, whose filthy paws were unfit for the duty. Proposed to G. t'other night that each of us should take medical charge of a separate watch—I having the Starboard or Mr. Heaths— hitherto he has officiated in the few cases requiring treatment. Thursday, January 31: S Lat: 41. W Long: 86.20. Engaged till 6 in anointing, sewing up &c. albatross's skin, have taken every precaution to ensure its preservation—stuffed cranium by a hole bored through orbit— removed muscles from fore arm & imbued exposed parts with the soap— finally enclosed skin in an envelope of stout canvas. Applied to for advice by one of the larboard watch, referred him to G. The fear of being the subject of diseased heart, or aortic aneurism which has haunted me almost constantly since April, 1831, was renewed today by my observing a small tumor over base of sternum where the hand for several months past perceives a strong pulsation of which otherwise am not sensible. Palpitation of heart, which from date above mentioned had annoyed me, frequently occasioning great depression of spirits and inaptitude for study, has since my coming to sea, been a rare visitor & then in a less violent degree than formerly, Epigastric pulsation has become stronger & can be felt & seen over a greater extent. Friday, February 1: S Lat: 39.7. W Long: 85.52. At sunset the western arch of the firmament presented that pale violet tint first observed in the northern hemisphere in Lat: 320 and which afterwards becoming of a deeper hue formed one of the chief beauties of the tropical sunset. Albatrosses have deserted us this week, a straggler only crossing our path at times. Employed after breakfast in repairing inexpressibles to relieve Cape Horn pair now laid aside. Till 12—reading Norie & chatting with the ladies on Cooper's travels. Promenading deck till 1—till 4 reading Maltebrun on Asia Minor. Copied into map the ancient names of places famed in classical story—& some brief notes concerning the exports & population of principal towns—in latter respect atlas corresponds in almost every instance with M. Have resolved to abandon Richard perhaps till I 101 ] have the book of nature to refer to & to read on Geography from 12 till 4. After dinner the mind is incapable of the necessary degree of attention to a study requiring the play of the reasoning powers & then the most enticing pursuit should be followed. Magendie on Circulation & Secretion. Finding that a fluid injected into the arteries is exhaled on one tissue & not on another, water in serous membranes, gelatine colod. with vermilion in brain & linseed oil in synovial membranes, he thinks it probable that the physical structure of the vessels of parts—permit the passage of particular portions of the blood. Saturday, February 2: S Lat: 37. W Long: 86.52. During forenoon reading Arnot on the Pendulum—on the action of the helm on a ship & the disposition of the sails in tacking—in the introduction some animadversions on the article "Animal Mechanics" by C. Bell in the Library of Useful Knowledge. Cleaned & oiled gun—till 4 reading Maltebrun on the eastern provinces of the Turkish empire—Armenia, Koordistan, Mesop- tamia & Irac Araby or Babylonia, made several brief extracts on blank page of Atlas—when I peruse Rollin shall find the advantage of having the ancient names of places. Got out Essay from trunk—Magendie on Secretion & Nutrition. He goes briefly over the different secretions & where little is known does not encumber the work with a history of conjectures. He tried the expt. of feeding dogs—on single unazotized substances, sugar, linseed oil, gum, drink distd. water—they all died in the space of from 30 to 36 days—(generally thriving for about the first 15)—much emaciated, their urine alkaline , thick urea—bile abundant in gall bladder & intestines & containing a sensible quantity of picromel, which is found most plentiful in herbivorous animals—its existence in small proportion being only lately discovered in the carnivorous—stomach & intestines corrugated & diminished in size in those fed on sugar & an oil—the cornea ulcerated in a very singular manner, permitting the escape of the humors & the eye degenerated into a tubercle of a caseous appearance. Fed on wheaten bread, they died in 50 days—but on soldiers biscuit retained their health. If put on a diet of animal food about the 28th or 30th day they ate with avidity, but died at the usual time. Pacing the deck during twilight & had some instructive conversation with G. on the Masonic Institutions—they are now the representatives of the Knights Templars of old, of the order St. John of Jerusalem, organized in the 14th century, their headquarters were first at Rhodes & afterwards at Malta & before the reformation, they formed the only rivals in learning & power of the Romish Church—on the difference in manners, appearance &c. between the neighbouring countries of Bohemia & Saxony— on the character of Milligan, the translator of Magendie with whom G. is [102] acquainted—& represents as a man of indefatigable perservance & research, but as I can gather from his notes to M. rather acrimonious towards his adversaries. Sunday, February 3: S Lat: 35.30. W Long: 87.52. Read a sermon by Paley on Seriousness in Religion, full of excellent matter, afterwards commenced his evidences of Christianity—he sets out with a refutation of Hume's arguments against the belief in miracles, but does not enter so fully or methodically into the matter as Abercrombie on the credibility of Testimony. By extracts from Roman authors Tacitus, Pliny, Tuetonius &c. & from other sources—he shows that the apostles & their followers in propagating their doctrines had to encounter the rage of the disappointed Jews & the persecution of the Romans whose system of religion it was their duty to decry & points out the coincidences in the narrations of the different sacred historians. This is our 21st Sunday on the deep and I have attained the age of manhood—would that I could shake off with the departed year, all the follies of youth in thought, word, & deed, for whatever the two latter are, my thoughts are often puerile—since my last birthday I have obtained a clearer view of the very limited extent of my knowledge & reflected more frequently of my state regarding religion, but alas, these impressions fade without producing any permanent benefit. At this important era in my life how different is my situation to what I anticipated, but I am well satisfied—instead of pursuing my studies in Paris—going to engage in responsible professional duties, where in all probability shall be thrown entirely on my own resources without a more experienced person to refer to in case of the utmost perplexity—let me then during this interval by reading & reflexion, qualify myself for the charge so that my peace of mind may always be preserved. Monday, February 4: S Lat: 35.8. W Long: 88.38. Engaged after breakfast in rummaging. Got out a pocket knife & a pair of small scissors— Repd. Cape Horn dress & put it by. Read Norie on Variation of Compass. At midday tempted by the calm, bathed—leaped off the main channels with a rope in hand & swam out about 15 yards—having dropped the rope which was unnecessary in the water—felt buoyant & not in the least chilled, & an agreeable sensation still pervades surface of body altho' from my frequent yawning during afternoon, suppose that bath has occasioned a slight degree of pulmonary congestion. Read Maltebrun on Syria & Palestine —& made condensed notes of the former—Magendie on Animal Heat & Generation. Tuesday, February 5: S Lat: 34.31. W Long: 88.45. Engaged till [ 103 j 2 P.M. in cleaning cranium of porpoise & skeleton of albatross. Made notes from Maltebrun on Palestine—& read a brief history of the rise & progress of the Ottoman Empire—it is now fast verging to decay. The Turks practise the virtue of hospitality & are very humane in their treatment of the inferior animals but are generally a prey to pride, obstinacy and ignorance. Magendie on the Fetus. The second mate was found this morning at 4V2 by the Captain asleep on the companion & the helmsman pacing the quarter deck—the C. wrote him today, threatening to send him to his cabin, should he be guilty of similar remissness in future. I have more than once found him in the same state—such conduct considering the character of some of his watch, cannot be too strongly stigmatized, besides the danger from squalls. Feel sorry for the young man, he has a turbulent set to deal with & does not possess firmness nor prudence sufficient to keep at a proper distance, but on the contrary, mingles familiarly with them & of course incurs their contempt. I would willingly advise him, but from his conversation with the Captain, can see that it would not be taken in good part as he does view his behaviour in a proper light. An albacore swam alongside during forenoon, had a mark on shoulder as if from a recent harpoon wound —some bonitos seen—No albatrosses since Saturday—a solitary puffin rarely observed. Wednesday, February 6: S Lat: 33.3 W Long: 87.52. Till 6 P.M. cleaning bones &c. The same fish as seen yesterday appeared again & followed us for hours, being recognized by the conspicuous spot on shoulder, regarding the nature of which there are numerous surmises. About noon a shoal of fish perhaps half as large as albacore noticed close on weather beam— they pursued the hook eagerly & with great swiftness, two were soon caught exactly similar—part of one cooked for dinner, proved excellent— the flesh being of a pale, cream color. G. at 1 began examining the other. At Vz 2 I commenced to compare it with Cuvier but dinner interrupted us & before it was finished, intelligence was brought that one subject was skinned & quartered by our ci-devant steward, the nasty varlet, who feared perhaps that he might be deprived of a mess. From what I saw they belong to the vii family—the Acanthopterygiens—Scomberoides—Did not ascertain genus—the number of false fins 9 above 8 below—wt. of 2nd 33 lbs.— (wt. of largest bonito caught in Atlantic uVz lbs.)—its length from 2 to 3 feet—spindle-shaped, pectorals sword shaped, curved backwards about 1 o in. long—Eyes very large—in stomach of first a fistularia about a foot in length found which G. got. Thursday, February 7: S Lat: 31.37. W Long: 87.37. Engaged all day cleaning porpoise's skull on maindeck & was an unwilling listener to [ 104] the sailors' conversation amongst themselves—it is an obscene disgusting slang richly seasoned with a numberless variety of ridiculous oaths, the ceaseless chatter of the cook who piques himself on his wit & knowledge of grammar & eloquence was amusing as a specimen of Ratcliff High Way oratory. Our friend the albacore made his appearance again but poor fellow was struck dead by a harpoon thrown by one of the men—I wish he had been spared—numerous shoals of bonito seen. At 8 a fair wind sprung up, driving us along at the rate of 5 knots, but now at 9—it is almost calm. Last night G. spoke about the affair of the fish & seemed much offended that the C. had not reprimanded the man for cutting it up, which I think he ought to have done. Friday, February 8: S Lat: 30.52. W Long: 87.19. Finished skull of porpoise which hung up in the rigging where it may be exposed to sun- cleaned wing bones of albatross. Prevented by rain from commencing operations till 12, before which time read Magendie on Generation, the foetal circulation & a note by the translator on the evolution of parts—before any member can be organized, its nerve must be first developed, hence the great size of the brain in infants—this is asserted by Geoffrey St. Hilaire from an extensive series of observations on monsters—the brain attains nearly its full size by the 7th year. The T. attempts to explain why the right hand is used in preference to the left by saying that after birth the blood stagnates in the right carotids & consequently flows in greater quantity into the subclavian, the left does benefit by this stagnation in the left carotid— he gives several long paragraphs on the subject—is also an advocate for the Pythagorean doctrine, that the great changes in the human frame are completed in septennial periods. At dusk a bird the size of a duck, with a long narrow body, rather long & broad tail & broad wings, made the circuit of the ship several times, flying close to the masts apparently seeking a spot whereon to alight—its breast & lower parts were whitish, wings dark, flew with a short quick motion. Lolled on the companion after twilight with the resplendent firmament for my canopy. The heat during the day is now becoming disagreeable, but the evenings are delightfully cool. Saturday, February 9: S Lat: 29.42. W Long: 87.18. All day occupied with skeleton of albatross, but thoughts wandered homeward—by this time our letters by the Janson have arrived. Last night read Cuvier's introduction to the first edition—he states the improvements made & the assistance received from Latruille, Lamarck, Geoffroy St. Hilaire &c.— Cuvier died early last summer of apoplexy, aged 63. Have been chatting about Lloyd's Insurance Coy. & the classification of ships according to age &c. A1—first class on the E. coast are limited to 7 or 8 years, on the [105] west side 10 or n—London built 15 years—the C. does not know the period that ships remain in the second class Ei—Shipping in the various ports examined at intervals when vessels are classed & the duration of term determined for each port, the rate of premium is less according to the higher rank of a ship—at London the charge for building is about £20 p ton. £7 is a good price for a ship which has been frequently at sea, or made two or three voyages. Sunday, February 10: S Lat : 28.56. W Long 87.3. Anxiously looking out for S.E. trade wind. Continued Paley on the evidences of Christianity— remarks on the notices made by the Apostolical fathers—Clements Ignatius, Barnabas, Justin Martyr &c. on the events of our Saviour's life & the deeds of the Apostles & on the short & general allusions to the propagation of Christianity & the manners & sufferings of the primitive believers by the heathen writers of the same period & also Josephus—these all tend to prove that the gospel history we now possess is the same as what was in circulation at that epoch—he then commences to demonstrate the authenticity of the gospels—have not arrived at conclusion of this argument—Paley recommends the gospels to be read for "the particular purpose of finding the detailed circumstantial accounts of the miracles". Read some chapters in Isaiah—Last night at 11 saw a lunar rainbow—an arc about 90° was distinctly observed, but prismatic colors could not be perceived. Three very large fish came close under the stern during afternoon, similar in form & position of fins to those caught on Wednesday, some small fry about us all day—flying fish have been observed since Thursday—have seen none. One or two circumstances have brought to my recollection my old schoolfellow & brother of the Angl [ ? ] Pet. Davidson, our contests at wrestling & shinty at which he was generally the victor.—Saturday expeditions to the Shochty & ordy or hill of Kinnoul, of all my school companions, he was the one whose friendship in after years I most desired & whom I most eagerly enquired after whenever an opportunity was met with. Have never seen him since leaving Perth in 1825 & perhaps shall not on this side the bourne which sooner or later both must pass—he is now a brotherchir & from his excellent abilities I doubt not that he will distinguish himself in his profession. Monday, February 11: S Lat: 28.34. W Long: 86.48. [Detailed description of bonito here.] It is the same species as that caught on Wednesday. They have been numerous today & four were caught. Preserved skin of one examined which occupied from 3 till dusk. After breakfast began cleaning sternum of albatross, thinking that today my occupation in this way would be at an end—when, was called to look at a sword fish within [106] io yards of weather beam—he had just made some large bonitoes leap out of the water to a great height—was about 9 or 10 feet long—had a large dorsal situated near vertex—his formidable snout distinctly seen— a very handsome fish—a baited sharkhook thrown over, but he was in pursuit of nobler game & soon left us. In an hour a large shark was hooked, towed forward to the gangway & hauled on board, attended while in his native element by four beautiful pilot fish. [Dimensions of shark follow here.] Tuesday, February 12: S Lat: 27.49. W Long: 86.23. Splendid sunset—Western horizon of a bright orange, bounded on each side by masses of pistachio green clouds—above, sky is beautifully tinted with streaks of pale violet & blue, the violet obtains more or less vividly throughout the spacious vault & imparts to the surface of the deep a rich lilac hue. Cleaning & stuffing skin of auxis till 2—a veritable bonito according to H. harpooned during afternoon, did not examine it, being busy cleaning a piece of shark's skin which intend to preserve, the faetor proceeding from latter was almost overpowering to the delicate olfactories of the ladies. While Rose was in search of food inspected the litter, found one dead, which consigned to the deep & another with a large sore around umbilicus. Strangled the latter & and an hour after, performed a cursory inspection of viscera—on opening thorax found thymus gland of an oblong form extending in front of Aorta and base of heart—heart, size of a large hazel nut.»Did not see foramen ovale. Lungs bright scarlet collapsed—liver, bright purple completely filling in front epigastric & hypochondriac regions—stomach, behind liver, contg. about 2 oz. greenish fluid intermixed with yellow flakes of coagulated milk—spleen, large attached to greater curvature of stomach, bright purple Urinary bladder reaching to umbilicus—pervious hypogastric arteries passing down along its parietes—Eyelids connected together by conjunction pupils dilated. Were visited by a tropic bird today—came on deck too late to have a close view—as after making the circuit of ship once or twice, he hovered over us for a short time & went his way. The technical name is Phaeton athereus belonging to the family of the Palmipedes termed Totipalmate from their hind toes being united to others by a single membrane comprehending 6 genera—Pelicans, Frigate birds, Boobies, Plotus, Cormorants, & that in question, recognized by two straight & very long tail feathers—unlike the Pelicans & boobies the head is nowhere denuded of feathers. "The beak is straight, pointed & moderately strong, the feet short & wings long". These are only known, some sp: or var. with white plumage more or less varied with black "not larger than a pigeon". Mr. Ryan mentions that they seem numerous in approaching the [107] Sandwich Islands—& Mrs. C. that in an uninhabited island to westward of Tahiti a party who went on shore found them very abundant & so tame, that "they had to kick them out of the path". Have promised the ladies two of the pups. Wednesday, February 13: S Lat: 26.58. W Long: 87.9. The heavy banks of "doubleheaded" clouds which since Sunday have appeared the southern horizon daily giving birth to treacherous hopes of the approach of wind, still remain, but breeze is expiring—sunshine all day—heat oppressive—Engaged till 2 with skeleton of albatross. Set a line for the 3 pilot fish which since the capture of shark on Monday have followed ship— they nibbled twice at bait, but were not hooked—two fish about 5 in. long 6 striped with narrow lines of yellow have been gamboling about rudder for some days—they tugged bait frequently—a large shoal of bonitos & 7 or 8 huge aupidis seen at different periods from all quarters of ship, the surface of water being unruffled, they were seen very distinctly coursing along, the larger ones keeping nearer surface. G. thinks that fish examined belongs to genus Orcynus instead of Auxis, distinguished by greater length of pectorals, which are about one-third of whole length—they are both subgenera of the genus Scomber, very closely allied to each other—on looking at stuffed specimen again think that G. is in the right as in bonito caught yesterday subgenus Thymus, the pectoral is only about 4 in. long in a fish about zVz feet & the Auxidis are said to resemble Thymus in this respect. Today are 4800 miles distant from Owwyhee. Finished Magendie during afternoon. Read Maltebrun on the Ottoman Empire—shall make brief extracts into Atlas regarding government &c. Thursday, February 14: S Lat: 25.57. H Long: 88. On awakening heard the cheery sound of the rushing water, a certain proof that a breeze was urging us on—rose at 7 and ascended rigging to main royal crosstrees by way of exercise. Engaged in bone picking till 1 P.M. Made notes from Maltebrun on the Ottoman government, religions of Empire &c. & commenced his account of Arabia—the Arabians say they obtained the coffee plant from Abyssinia originally, they prohibit under the severest penalties its exportation—in ancient times their voyages to India occupied five years— did not discover the nature of the monsoons till the first century. Looked up in essay the short notice of Carson's theory of venous circulation founded on the resiliency of the lungs & elasticity of heart &c. Milligan attempts to disprove it by saying that as air rushes into expiring lung to restore equilibrium destroyed by rarefaction of air remaining in lung after expiration, venous blood which is 854 times heavier than air will enter only in the 854th part of its volume by pulmonary artery—or that by 1/80 the amt. [108] ™$ sent by each contraction of P.U. are increased by each inspiration. This may be correct as far as it goes, but it is clearly proved that, during inspiration, venous blood enters thorax in greater abundance, which is the point that Carson maintains. The fact was known to Haller, Lamore & Lorry—expts. show that during expiration the flow of arterial blood is accelerated but the progress of venous retarded so that for a moment, there is a suspension of the circulation so much the more complete as the expiration is the more violent—this explains several phenomena pertaining to circulation—intumescence of brain at that instant &c. Fish abundant in the morning—none caught—a solitary stormy petrel seen at 6. They deserted us at same time as albatrosses. Had scuttle opened and now cabin is cooled & air removed by a refreshing current which constantly enters. Friday, February 15: S Lat: 24.50. W Long: 89.13. Rose at 6V2 and went on deck. Saw several flying fish, glancing brightly in the morning sunbeams as they fled from their fell destroyers. Came below at 7 & read Maltebrun till 8 on Arabia. Engaged till 12 with supr. extremity of porpoise & vertebrae of albatross. At Maltebrun till 4 on Arabia & Persia—made no extracts—most of the towns in Arabia except in the kingdom of Yemen are governed by independent sheiks, different religious sects, & these as in the dominions of Turkey, have a mortal antipathy against each other. There are the fierce Wahabees, the Shiites or followers of Ali & some other ites whose exact titles I cannot at the moment recollect. Muscat at the S.E. extremity near the point of Ras el had on the Indian ocean is the most populous town (60,000)—it was in ancient times & still is the entrepot for the trade between Arabia, Persia & India. The kingdom of Yemen to S.W. the most fertile part. Niebuhr who with the native Abalfeda is the chief authority, states its revenue to be £80,000 entirely arising he says from the duty on the exportation of coffee—other exports— Rice & Cotton. Pop. of its metrop: Sanah, 20,000—there is considerable trade between the towns in the interior. Near the island of Baharein in Persian Gulf pearl fishing carried on to a great extent—at one period amounting annually to 500,000 ducats—frequently by foreigners—Education is in a declining state altho there are one or two universities where the mysteries of the Koran &c. are expounded. Examined in Magendie the Zoological Tables at the end of the volume. The ist contains the characters of the four great divisions of the Animal kingdom, Vertebrata, Moll- usca, Articulata, Radiata. 2nd—the characters of four divisions of Vertebrata into Mammalia, Birds, Reptiles & Fishes. 3rd—characters of different families composing class Mammalia. 4th—different varieties of human race— Afterwards read the article Man in Cuvier, he describes his conformation 109 . & moral & physical development. Makes three great varieties, Caucasic, Ethiopian & Mongolian. The Americans in their contour approach the former Cauci., but have the complexion & scanty beard of latter. Five months from Gravesend today & by G's calculation have sailed 11,529 m. Saturday, February 17. S. Lat: 23.35. W Long: 90:30. Up at 6Vz — read Maltebrun till breakfast. Commenced Mackintosh's Practice of Physic on Inflammation—he canvasses shortly the different theories & supports Syme in asserting that many of the symptoms depend on the altered functions, cessation of nutrition & exhalation of the part—all that is proved by experiment is that circulation in capillaries ceases wholly or partially according to the intensity of the inflammation—beyond this we know nothing certainly & the host of hypotheses differ only in the degree of probability—Maltebrun on Persia—Copied into Atlas ancient names of places. Persia abounds in excellent fruits but there is not a 20th of the land arable, the soil is in general clayey. Climate in the northern provinces humid & unhealthy during summer—of central plateau goes to the extremes of heat & cold in southern provinces— much hotter than the West India islands—a barbarous custom prevails of shutting the gates of towns at sunset by which in the cold regions during winter many perish. Have been gumming into books silk marks worked by the ladies. Sunday, February 17. S Lat: 21.54 W Long: 92.6. Had prayers & part of a homily read after breakfast. Lent Mrs. Taylor Kirke White. Continued Paley—on the authenticity of the scriptures—from the writings of the primitive fathers beginning with Barnabas & Polycarp & Clement of Jerusalem, who were contemporaries of the apostles & coming down to Eusebius who flourished about the end of 3rd century & wrote a history of Christianity—he proves that the 4 gospels & acts of the apostles, which term included the epistles, were very early collected into a distinct volume, were referred to & quoted on by these authors as being in general circulation among the brethern, and were spoken of in terms of highest reverence. Read some chapters in Isaiah—Paley adduces the evidence of writers who lived at great distances from each other—and as the epoch of each joins on with that of his predecessor the chain of testimony is unbroken. He states this part of the work to be in great measure an abridgement of that of Dr. Lardner's, written about middle of last century where the proofs are given in minute detail. The subject is deeply interesting & demands the most serious attention. Had several visits during day from five tropic birds entirely white except a black circular line near tail—appears about the size of a partridge with a long reddish beak, long wings which in flight move rapidly [no] a —emits a rather sharp cry (Krik). Chatting at dinner about Irving & the unknown tongues. Irving's radical error is the denying the divinity of our Saviour. Monday, February 18: S Lat: 20.8. W Long: 93.36. One or two slight visitations of salt & rain water warned me of the necessity of nailing a piece of canvas over porthole—it has now proved a tolerably effectual barrier during day & now the breeze is somewhat more moderate. Up at 71/2. Read Maltebrun till 4 P.M. on Persia, the independent empire of Afghanistan or eastern Persia & a dissertation on the Caspian Sea, on its geography which was for a long time misunderstood—a refutation of the opinions that it has a subterraneous communication with the Persian Gulf or the Sea of Aral; its surplus waters like those of the ocean carried off by evaporation—to the mountains by which it is nearly encircled & whence they are again conveyed to it by rivers, thus performing a regular circulation—a contradiction of the affirmation of the Ancients & until lately not disproved that the river Oxus or Gihon enters it instead of the sea of Aral—the source of error is explained by the circumstances that the position & direction of the two seas^ being wrongly described, they were supposed to communicate or form a single basin which went under the name of the former. The waters of Caspian less salt than those of the ocean, its bitterness increased by a N.W. wind—navigation dangerous. It possesses four species of sturgeon which I find are described in Cuvier, but he complains that they are badly known —he says that N. America has several peculiar species—Acipensersturio is the principal object of the Russian fisheries & from 300 to 400,000 are taken annually. Acip: Ruthering preferred for eating—Acip: stellatus most abundant & affords the strongest isinglass & best caviare. A million & a half caught in a year are valued at a million of rubles or £158,330— Acip: Huso attains the length of 15 feet & weight of 1200 lbs., one is a heavy cartload for 3 horses—100,000 amount in value to £53,000. These species are found in Caspian, Aral, Black Sea & large rivers of Siberia. Being aware that sturgeons are caught in rivers of N.W. America & the process of preparing isinglass simple, it has occured to me that the H. B. Coy. might turn their attention to its manufacture as the Indians could be taught to prepare it. Shall see when on the spot if the thing is practicable. Compared Guthrie with Maltebrun in the article Persia. In every respect but that of historical detail & description of principal towns he is far inferior, but on these subjects the information is more recent and minute. Persia from time immemorial has been rent with intestine broils— under its present able sovereign Futteh Ali Shah it presents a state of nascent improvement, which at his death however is likely to be checked by civil wars kindled by some of his 39 sons in disputing for the sovereignty. The scantiness of wood obliges them to employ foreign vessels in the Persian Gulf & elsewhere. Two thirds of their importations are British. Since 4 have been reading Mackintosh on Fever. He finds many faults with Cullen, some of them well founded but others trivial & showing a finical disposition. Tuesday, February 19. S Lat: 18.11 W Long: 95.19. Read Mackintosh till 12—after giving a classification of fevers into: ist—Fever from functional derangement. 2nd—Inflammatory Fever. 3rd— Congestive Fever i.e. Remittent & intermittent. 4th—Synochus of Cullen what he designates "for want of a better term" a mixed form of fever & which includes Hectic—he treats of the question of contagion & epidemic influence, denies that fevers in general are propagated by contagion & then gives a tedious discussion on the Gibraltar Fever of 1828 which in a work of this nature is malapropos. He makes out that Sir W. Pym in his answer to the Med: Chir: Soc: of Cadiz asserted some falsehoods, altho' he establishes by the evidence adduced the point that the disease originated spontaneously—there is too much personality & harshness displayed in remarks on his adversaries. He next details the phenomena of Intermittents & quotes about 30 cases from Bailly's work on the Intermittent at Rome in 1822—showing the Pathology of the disease. Must study this subject with particular care as for the last two years the malady has raged at Fort Vancouver in a malignant form. Maltebrun on Canbul & Independent Tartary—the Afghan government is the most republican in central Asia, neither the king nor chiefs have despotic authority—the people divided into tribes are actuated by zeal for the general good. The chief clans are the Doranees, humane & generous to which the king belongs & the Ghilghees, fierce & vindictive who formerly maintained their way. The king endeavours to attach to him the inhabitants of the towns or Tankias & the adjoining chieftains but is often set at defiance by those dwelling in the remote mountain fastnesses whose powers he tries to lessen by enticing them to court. M. justly compares this state of things to that of Scotland when the feudal system was in force except that the Scottish Chiefs had despotic power, the resemblance in the physical nature of the countries & character of people is complete. In reading the Persian Adventurer by Fraser of Relig was struck with the similarity—The Tartars manufacture a white gunpowder but conceal the art. Four tropic birds—viewed them from main top. The [112] beak is long & red—there is a black spot encircling orbit & wings are thinly speckled with black. Wednesday, February 20: S Lat: 16.37. Long: 96.49. Up at 7. Read Mackintosh till 11. Cleaned & sharpened dissecting instruments by 12. & steered till 1. Maltebrun till six—since, Macintosh, a continuation of remarks on the treatment of intermittents in the cold stage by venaesection —this is performed when the rigor has existed about M hour & in numerous cases detailed has either entirely checked or much ameliorated disease—a sudden relief from cerebral & pectoral oppression is experienced—pulse becomes more natural & the patient generally falls into a comfortable sleep— the disease either disappearing, or soon yielding to the exhibition of Quassia & laxatives & in a few instances Quinine—Dr. M. has received favorable communications from several English Physicians—& the results of pretty extensive & successful practice in India on Hindoos, Mahomedans & Europeans of enfeebled constitution—objections are raised against it by Dr. Alison, founded on observations in a single case, where it was not persevered in, but they are unsubstantial & easily refuted. Altho' Dr. M. is silent as to unsuccessful trials, the testimony in its favor is so strong as to render the propriety of proving its efficacy evident to me. Maltebrun on Siberia—its extent is 2/7 greater than that of Europe—climate colder than in same lat: of Europe or America—only 1/3 of country produces grain, but wheat grows & ripens from May to a space of 3 months, & in the most northern parts some plants produce seed in a few days—this is one of the immeasurable proofs which creation affords of the all seeing wisdom of Providence. Russia derives a large quantity of gold, silver & copper from the mines in the district of Kholyoan and Nerghinsk. For the furs they receive China produce, which is conveyed from Kiachta on the Chinese frontier & in the govt, of Irkoutsk to Petersburg at the rate of 19/- for 40 lbs. wt.. by land & 12/- by water. Along the banks & at the mouths of the great rivers the obi Yenissi & sena &c. are found numerous fossil remains of the elephant, mastodonte, Mammoth &c. which afford matter of controversy to the learned. Pallas supposes them to have been carried thither by a deluge, but as the madrepores have erected thir coral mountains in the gelid water of the Frozen Ocean & are said to be still in operation, it is more probable says Maltebrun, that in former times these huge animals were adapted by their constitution to withstand the rigors of the Siberian climate. Thursday, February 21: S Lat: 15.14. W. Lat: 98.7. Up at 6Vz — read till ioVz Mackintosh on Remittent Fever which under the name of yellow fever or black vomit is so fatal in warm climates—violent headache, [113] vertigo & constipation are occasionally premonitory symptoms—it is preceded by rigors & during its course remissions occur, the symptoms vary according to what organs are chiefly implicated. Sometimes it sets in with high delirium, quick bounding pulse, convulsions &c. or dry parched tongue, pain at epigastrium, quick feeble pulse—tympanitic distension & great thirst, symptoms of pulmonary congestion may predominate, or there may be indications of acute disease in the three great cavities—the functions of the kidneys are nearly or altogether suspended—often copious bilious vomiting, or the matter ejected may be black—the post mortem appearances are what might be expected from symptoms—mucous membrane of bowels & the liver most frequently. Mack, adopts the practice of free & copious V.S. followed by blisters & the use of mild purgatives—has not found bark of much benefit, cold affusion in some cases did good. Maltebrun on Central Asia—the Kalmuks, Mongolians, Mantchoorians, the conquerors of China in the 17th Century & the Coreans. It is a striking proof of the indolence & want of enterprise of the Chinese who are often sufferers by the density of the populations, that the coast of Mantchooria which La Perouse found fertile and abounding in fruits is uninhabited. Have seen flying fish yesterday & today in shoals—at noon a large flock of narrow winged brownish birds about the size of a pigeon, were busy among them. At 4 a considerable number seen astern & at a great height above them were soaring three large black birds with long ample wings & a forked tail. They followed the course of smaller birds who made for a shoal of fish we saw & dropping slowly down till about 100 yards from surface, darted headlong amongst fish & rising a few yards repeated the act several times. The sailors who say they are common about the West Indian sea call them Man of War birds— they are I think what Cuvier describes as the Frigate bird—Pelecanus Aquilus—their soaring steady flight on motionless pinions is very similar to that of Accipitres. For some days back have had symptoms of Dyspepsia, foul tongue, heartburn & oppression at precordia & palpitation. Took this evg. rhubarb & Magnesia. Friday, February 22: S Lat: 13.49. W Long: 99.54. Up at 7V2 — breakfasted on Vz a biscuit & a cup of tea, felt free of disagreeable sensations till after dinner, cardialgia came on. Finding that the bitch would not be able to rear three whelps properly removed one & divided spinal marrow, where it issues from Cranium—this did not kill the animal so speedily as I expected—it struggled feebly for several minutes. Examined viscera to observe what change 10 days had produced—a thick layer of adipose substance under skin of abdomen & thorax—Thorax—Thymus gland oblong form [114] somewhat smaller proportionally but very little so—adhering firmly to pericardium. Heart, size of a walnut—had a good view of eustachian valve &c. in both auricles. Several ecchymosed spots in substance of heart- Lungs bright scarlet—2.—4 lobes 1.2—slight effusion of bloody serum into thorax—Liver: 6 principal lobes, one or perhaps two lobules bright purple, not extending so far into left hypochondrium—Gall bladder filled with light yellow slightly viscid bile. Stomach containing a quantity of coagulated milk tinged yellow towards pyloric extremity. Small intestine a yellowish fluid which as you descend becomes more consistent, tenaciously adhering to membrane. Large intestine—a greenish feculent matter, vermiform process long & ample—Pericordium & Peritonium in several points loaded with long fatty lobules—Spleen oblong purple. Kidneys large, similar in form to those of man, umbilical vein a mere thread, little larger than phrenic nerve. Have kept cranium. Read Maltebrun on the Japanese empire & Loo Choo Islands. Began Mackintosh on Continued Fevers. Saturday, February 23: S Lat: 12.14 W Long: 100.55. Up at HI Read the passage for the day in Boghatsky as usual & the 3 first chapters of St. Matthew's Gospel, which practice shall continue daily—Read Mackintosh till 12 but interrupted frequently. Maltebrun on China—on the history, geographical & political of this empire—authors differ so much that the enquirer is bewildered in a labyrinth of contradictory statements. In the construction of their bridges & canals they display great industry and ingenuity—but the locks of the latter are clumsily contrived. Agriculture as in the Japanese Empire is fostered & encouraged by government, altho' there are many valuable gold mines—they are not generally wrong in taking a purgative, they use vinegar which has been kept in a vessel made of realgar or black sulphuret of antimony—a poisonous salt. In 1806 40 million lbs. of tea were exported—13 for America, 1 for Denmark & the remainder for Britain. Sir G. Staunton supposes that the black & green teas are obtained from the same plant—the tea is flavored by mixing sweet smelling olive with the leaves of an odorous wood. Have been less dyspeptic today, owing to moderation & discrimination in diet. Sunday, February 24: S Lat: 10.30. W Long: 102.41. Up at 8— read after breakfast the first 2 chapters of Mark, Luke & John, with a view to compare the narrations—Divine service performed & part of a homily read by G. Having proved that the scriptures now in use were reverenced, quoted frequently and referred to in all controversies amongst the early Christians he enters on the second proposition namely that; there is not satisfactory evidence that for any other Miracles &c. persons underwent [us] similar dangers, tribulations, & sets out by showing the difference between the christian miracles & those imputed to Popish Saints &c. Read Isaiah— Instead of taking the helm this forenoon, studied the use of the sextant, having borrowed Mr. Heath's and after several failures succeeded in bringing the sun to the horizon. Cardialgia came on after dinner, but milder. Took sulph: Mag: there having been constip: of bs. since Thursday. Monday, February 25: S Lat: 8.33. W Long: 104.19. Up at 7— read Christ's sermon on the Mount. After breakfast, began Mackintosh on Eruptive Fevers, Scarlatina & Rubeola—he condemns the stimulating practice & puts great confidence in an early general V.S.—during recovery, stimulants are useful. M. does not allot a proper space in his work to the treatment of diseases but too often skips over it slightly to enter into hobbyhorsical discussions on Pathology to which he seems to have devoted much attention. In the forenoon looked over Abercombie on Medical Investigation & before going further shall peruse it attentively as I mean to read M. slowly & deliberately weighing carefully all his propositions & on the most important subjects comparing him with Good. Returned 2nd vol. of Maltebrun & received 3rd on India & Oceanica of which read a few pages. Read in Guthrie the history of Turkey, Mahomet's career & the wars in Hindostan with Hyder Ali Tippoo Saib & more recently the Burmese. Conversed with the ladies regarding the Missionaries in the Polynesian islands more particularly the Sandwich group—they represent the American missionaries as well meaning, but morose & bigotted & repressing innocent amusements among the natives—their receiving goods for sale from America seems to be considered as a grievance by the merchants at Oahu & I can see that the ladies have been in the habit of speaking of them slightingly altho' by defending Missionaries generally & throwing doubts on their authorities for the reports, I prevented their doing so tonight. Felt better today & breakfasted on porridge or burgoo as the sailors term it. Have eaten it to breakfast since approaching Cape Horn & found it more "holesome" than any other food. Tuesday, February 26: S Lat: by a/c 6.55. Long: 105.41. Up at 7 —read 7th & 8th chapters of St. Matthew in which his becoming a disciple is recorded. Read Abercrombie on the application of the rules of philosophical investigation to medical science. If I can recollect & apply these in the pursuit of knowledge, it will be much to my advantage. He commences by disserting on the uncertainty of Medicine—then points out the objects we are to have in view in medical investigation—viz. the acquisition & reception of facts—the combining & arranging of facts—Tracing between events the sequences of cause & effect. Deducing general principles & in these mental processes demonstrates the numerous sources of fallacy & the [n6] methods to be followed in order to ascertain the truth. We cannot, as in the exact sciences, refer to experiments for the solution of difficulties,—it is only by the slow course of careful observation that medical Science can be advanced. Resumed study of Navigation which since 18th ult. has been interrupted by various causes—worked some examples of finding latitude by meridian altitude—a description of its mountains, rivers, climate & productions. The height of perpetual congelation in the Himalah range is 17,000. Some of the peaks are 25,000 above level of sea—about 4000 higher than Chimborazo in Peru. The Ganges rises during the rainy season 32 feet above its ordinary level & inundates to a great extent the surrounding plains in lower part of its course consequently fertilizing them. Divine honors are paid to it by the Hindoos, & some portions of it are more sacred than others. In the British courts, the natives are sworn by its water—it is not magnitude but the fertility of its banks that seems to consecrate a river, the Indus & Bramapootra, a considerable portion of whose course is through a sterile country are not regarded in this light. Climate in the vallies of the Himaleh & Hindoo Khoosk—they have the pleasing alternation of the four seasons, but in other parts only two seasons are experienced—a rainy during prevalence of S.W. Monsoon from May till Oct.—the dry during remainder of year when the sun is south of the Equator & N.W. monsoon blows. Dreadful hurricanes & thunderstorms are frequent. In Botany & Zoology & Mineralogy, India is very rich & presents an enviable field for the Naturalist. Wednesday, February Z7: S Lat: 5.36. W Long: 107.25. Up at 7 read to 10th chapter of St. Matthew and a few pages at random of Cowper's Poems—anticipate much gratification from this foretaste in perusing them thoroughly. Went over Mackintosh again on Eruptive Fevers, by the humoral pathologists, they have been regarded as arising from a vitiated state of the humors—by others, as being strictly a cutaneous eruption. M. properly unites with those who consider the eruption merely as a symptom but by the period of its appearance & decline &c. greatly modifying the intensity of the disease. All the vital organs are at times more or less found congested or presenting traces of inflammation in post mortem obs: but the mucous membrane of the lungs invariably suffers. Continued Maltebrun on India—a description of the provinces forming the Punjab, inhabited by the Seik nation who have a peculiar religion—they worship one God—their code of morality is more strict than that of Mahomedans, but, except that, indulge to excess in spirituous beverages. Unless where there are British establishments, the country in the N.W. Guzerat, Lahore, Rajepootana &c. is [117] A ravaged by predatory hordes, & consequently agriculture and the arts languish. In some of the large cities, Surat &c. Hospitals for the aged & infirm among the inferior animals are maintained by the Hindoos which are divided into wards for the accommodation of different species, even rats, mice & bugs—here obtain an asylum. Thursday, February 28: S Lat: 4.10. W Long: 108.52. Up at 7— read nth Chapter St. Matthew. Applied to by the apprentice Clark affected with an eruption of pimples on face & breast constituting the disease termed Acne. Prepared a M of Sulph: Mag: & Sup: Potassa to be taken every second day & recommended moderation in diet & cleanliness—the youth has the credit of being a gourmand. Reed, ist vol: of Good's Study of Medicine, which commences with diseases of the digestive organs. Was desirous of first reading him on Fevers so as to institute a comparison with Mackintosh, but as it was not of material consequence retained first vol: & commenced its perusal. He divides diseases into six classes: Those affecting digestive organs—respiratory, sanguineous—nervous—sexual—& secernent. These are subdivided into many genera & a countless host of species—in preface he states the plan of work & returns his acknowledgements to those who have rendered him assistance. In the physiological proem on digestion, a good compendium of the facts known, is given & many allusions made to the mechanism &c. of the organs in different tribes of animals in which great learning & research is displayed. In entering on the subject dentition, he describes in an able manner the progress of development in the formation of teeth. Steered during forenoon & took some sights with sextant. Maltebrun on the provinces forming the basin of the Ganges, Delhi, Agra, Bahar, Bengal &c. These are generally very fertile, producing in some parts 3 crops of rice annually, opium, indigo, silk &c. & precious stones, the chief productions. Population made up of Mahomedans, Hindoos & Sikhs. The description of Calcutta is unsatisfactorily brief. An untraceable association of ideas has brought me to think today of my cousin Eneas & my old preceptor Mr. Clark, now Dentist. Eneas, poor fellow, is hanging on in expectation of a commission in the army & from what my uncle said, passing his time rather unprofitably. I wish I had seen him when in London. Going abroad, sadly breaks up the ties & connections formed in one's native country & should he return, he will most likely find that death has been busy amongst those he esteemed most. Friday, March 1: S Lat: 3.8. W Long: 110.27. Up at 7—read in Fivas a sketch of Milton's life by Villemain—Racine first translated his poems into French. There have been several subsequently, but Delile's trans- [n8] lation is most esteemed. Have again begun to read Fivas at night & find it an agreeable & useful relaxation after the labours of the day are concluded & chronicled. Read Good on Ptyalism—Toothache, diseases of Esophagus & difficult dentition of children. Mackintosh only treats of two latter—they agree in essentials, but M. gives little more than what he thinks or has proved to be correct. Good from his extensive research gives an erudite description or history of all the forms, modes of treatment, & most remarkable cases on record of the different affections, premised by the physiological history of the organs implicated. Maltebrun on the states bordering the Himaleh Mts.— Nepaul, Bootan, Assam & then on the Deccan proper, included between the parallels of the rivers Nerbuddah & Kistnah. The 2nd mate having found fault with Stokes about some point of duty improperly performed, the latter retorted insolently & obliged the C. to interfere and a rumpus ensued. The C. told Stokes that he could prove him a mutinous rascal. Stokes answered that he would "knock off duty" until the C. proved his allegation & wrote the C. a note about an hour ago (8PM) in which he said that the 2nd mate slept so soundly during his night watches as to make it necessary to rouse him 2 or 3 times in order to ascertain the time. This in Mr. H. is shameful conduct, if it be true. Saturday, March 2: S Lat: supd 1.57. W Long in.56. Up at 8— read Good on Functional diseases of the stomach, disordered appetite, cardialgia & pyrosis, or water rash & am going on with dyspepsia. Maltebrun on the southern provinces, forming the presidency of Madras—the salaries both at Bombay and Madras are lower & necessaries more expensive than at Calcutta. Madras is unfavorably situated for shipping, inhabited by Hindoos, the most unsophisticated in their manners. In Malabor, Canard &c. there were a considerable number of Christians, who suffered much persecution from Tippoo Saib, & many recanted & embraced the Mahometan faith but since the tyrant's overthrow most of them returned to their former religion. Sunday, March 3: S Lat: 1.8 W Long: 113.3. Up at 7V2—read to 19th Chapter of St. Matthew—divine service performed to a small congregation. The C. withheld their allowance of rum from two who sat on the topgallant forecastle while prayers were being read. They came to enquire the reason at 1 P.M. & being told it was for contempt of the C. & those who performed the duty, Foreman, one of the offenders, burst forth in a very insolent strain & an altercation between him & the C. took place in which violent expressions passed on both sides. Read in Paley the Chapter on the Morality of the Gospel, but having been interrupted more than once must reperuse it before proceeding further. Took one or two sights with sextant [»9] but from using too bright glass, right eye feels painful. The light winds we now experience seem to throw a gloom on all on board & I have no doubt the length of the passage has a powerful effect in exciting ill nature & contention amongst the sailors for most of them are said to be quite tired of their proper element, the ocean & some are expressing their resolution never to make another voyage. Am now going to read Isaiah. 11 Vz P.M. Read 52 & 53 Chapters of Isaiah in which the advent of our Saviour and the object of his mission are clearly foretold. On going on deck at 9V2 was struck with the appearance of clouds, thin strata of white fleecy clouds coming from the N.W. concealed the etherial vault where narrow gaps & fissures disclosed the deep azure blue of the heavens, which contrasted strikingly with the snow white expanse of cloud, the queen of night sailing majestically along & encircled by a faint halo added much to or rather was the prime cause of the beauty of the scene. Monday, March 4: S Lat: 0.35. W Long: 113.32. At 7 we had a hard squall from N.E. & ran before it until small sails were handed—made myself useful in pulling & hauling ropes &c. The breeze now (SVz ) blows steadily & impels us forward at the rate of 6 knots. Up at 8—read Mackintosh on Colic & have commenced Good. Maltebrun on Ceylon—the Maldives & Laccadives—Ceylon is about two-thirds the size of Ireland. It was taken by the Portuguese in the 16th Century, & afterwards possessed by the Dutch who were expelled by the British in 1796. The natives are termed Singalese, their religions are the Christian, Hindoo & Bhuddist. Their character on the whole is good, altho' they have been guilty of one or two atrocities towards British. The climate is fine & in most places salubrious & the soil exceedingly fertile, but badly cultivated—no manure being employed—many districts covered with trackless forest. Tis only in the neighbourhood of Negumbo on S.W. coast that cinnamon grows. Upwards of 300,000 lbs. of it are sent to Britain annually, for which monopoly the E.I.C. pay govt. £60,000. Pearl fishing carried on extensively at Condatchy. The elephants which are exported in numbers to India are caught at S. extremity of island. An elephant can be tamed in 8 days. Have been followed by two shad all day. Fired at one with ball as he glided along immediately below the surface, but did no damage. Today has been remarkable for bickerings & recriminations amongst the crew in which the C. interfered. The men appear much disposed to grumble & quarrel with each other. Borrowed the Rambler from Mrs. T. & shall read it alternately with Fivas as I feel in the mood. Tuesday, March 5: N Lat: 0.6 W Long: 114.24. Up at 7—read St. [ 120] Matthew, & some papers in the Rambler. Got G. after breakfast to examine my thorax to ascertain the state of the heart's action. The action of r.v. is distinctly perceptible at base of sternum & the sound pulsation much diffused over chest, for a fortnight past have by attention to diet been endeavouring to remove dyspeptic symptoms & with some success. Shall continue same system & more strictly which I hope will have the effect of restoring the healthy action of ht. Read Good on Colic, but with rather distracted attention. Maltebrun on the moral & political state of Hindo- stan—Hindoos divided into four castes—Brahmins, Rajpoots or Warriors, Shepherds, & Labourers. There are a great many mixed castes & the Pariahs, being of no caste are greatly persecuted & despised, & their being employed as servants by the Europeans gives much offence to their bigotted countrymen. The Brahmins are by no means strict in their morals & perform their devotional rites less from sincerity than secular motives. Their belief in the transmigration of souls causes their respect for the inferior animals. Several restrictions were removed from the trade to India 1815, & in 1818 the exports & imports by free traders were greater than the Coys. Cotton, indigo, cinnamon & silk are the staple exports, but value of tea sent to Britain is double that of any of the articles mentioned—great quantities of British cottons imported. On Saturday a cask of porter was broached & since of an evening the steward has appeared "a little bit tosticated or so" but by his own confession swallowed four tumblers full this morning, by noon he was hors du combat & retired to court the sweets of calm repose in his hammock. It was imprudent allowing him to have free access to the cask as from his former behaviour it might be surmised that he could not resist the temptation of tippling. His conduct since his restoration has been till now quite commendable. Wednesday, March 6: N Lat: 0.43. W Long: 115.14. Up at 7— read some chapters in St. Matthew & afterwards read in the Penny Magazine an account of the Eddystone Lighthouse—it was begun in 1756 & completed in 59 without any loss of life, or serious accident. During this period the men were only employed 116 whole days, or 2784 hours. Smeaton was a self taught genius, as were the architects of the two preceding buildings, one of which was swept away while the architect & some others were within & the second, a wooden structure after withstanding many severe storms was burn't. Read again on Colic & copied into Mc. several extracts on symptoms & treatment from G. who makes amends for his meagreness in Pathology by ample details on causes, symptoms & treatment. Maltebrun on the history of India as also Guthrie. India has been frequently invaded & conquered by the Mongols & Affghans & once in modern times by [121] the Persians under Nadir Shah. From Europe the Portuguese formed settlements in the 16th century, the Dutch in the 17th who almost ousted the former. The British established factories in the 17th century but since 1744 have maintained the preponderance. Their servants in the country were guilty of great excesses—at first enriching themselves at the expense of their employers, but latterly their affairs have been conducted more correctly. The Hindoos & Mahometans are governed by their native law respecting which are in some places expounded & enforced by native judges— in others by Europeans. It is doubtful which method best answers the desired end. Europeans very generally mistake simplicity for cunning, are liable in various ways to be deceived. Natives have prejudices which interfere with the strict administration of justice, but on the other hand are better qualified to detect impostors. Thursday, March 7: N Lat: 1.49. W Long: 116.46. Last night breeze freshened again about 10 & has been blowing steadily all today from N.E. but now has again decreased in force. Are now 20 days sail from Oahu at the rate of 130' per day. Up at 7V2—engaged till iVz in making necessary arrangements in cabin. Read till dinner time a paper in the Rambler on Curiosity. Maltebrun on China-India, a name he applies to the countries between Hindostan & China, Birman Empire, Cambodia, Laos, Siam &c. Good on Diarrhoea. During forenoon made considerable muscular exertions in moving shot bags & now feel fatigued—was more free from palpitations than is usual on such occasions. Am making daily diminutions in quantity of diet. G. proposed on Tuesday V.S. to 8 or 10 oz.—have not determined on having it performed. Friday, March 8: N Lat: 3.5. W Long: 118.35. I-ast ni§nt lolled on the companionhatch, enjoying the refreshing breeze & humming favorite melodies, or paced the quarter deck till 10. The touching words of Moore's ballad "Oft in the stilly night, ere slumber's chain has bound me " awoke in my mind the memory of departed friends giving rise to a pleasing tho' sad train of reflexions & then reminiscences arose of my collegiate days at Glasgow & Wilkinson who sang the verses with such expression & tenderness. 1 never get into this mood but the fleeting & evanescent nature of the joys we prize most strikes the mind, & thoughts of eternity occur. Up at 7, having been applied to by Mrs. T. lastnight, who for some days, has perspired very copiously & oft times felt a sensation of great debility & faintness, gave her case some consideration & after breakfast made up a quantity of acid: sulph: dil: sulph: Quinae & aqua—twice daily. Engaged till nearly 2 in getting albatross bones & cranium of porpoise boiled to extract oil [ 122] with which they are impregnated. Read the Rambler till i. Johnson attempts to fix the climacterics of the mind as Pythagoras & his disciples have those of the body—he traces the progress from childhood when the mind flies from object to object without being steadily attracted by any & feels most happy when unrestrained, then how the powers of the imagination being gradually weakened from at first disbelieving only improbabilities—it at length requires a disrelish for fiction in every form & takes delight only in the pursuit of truth. He continues the dissertation much farther, adverting to the different inclinations of man, expresses many just sentiments & places familiar subjects in a new light. Maltebrun on the Burmese & Anamese Empires. Good on Diarrhoea—compared him with Mackintosh—there is nothing worthy of extracting. Saturday, March 9: N Lat: 4.30. W Long: 119.47. Up at 7—read the Rambler on deck till nearly 8. Engaged till 12 in copying into Atlas from Maltebrun some tables, statistical & commercial regarding Hindostan. Read on Siam, Cambodia, Malacca &c.—the missionaries are almost the only authorities for the scanty & vague information possessed concerning these countries as the Missionaries are chiefly Roman Catholics & they exercise the usual intolerance of that communion. 'Tis not to be wondered that they have been unsuccessful in their attempts. Began Oceanica, the appellation given by M. to the innumerable islands in the Pacific which form a fifth great portion of the globe. On this subject, the sources of information are very clear & numerous. M. from the arboriscent & fungus like forms of many of the coral reefs starts the hypothesis that they vegetate & the madrepores are similar to the insects which swarm on terraneous plants. Good on Cholera— shall reperuse the article & also Laurie's essay & afterwards write down in case book what my memory still can furnish of the phenomena of disease as it appeared at Glasgow. Must now begin to think of what is to be done at Oahu—who I shall write to at home &c. Dyspepsia much alleviated & palpitation seldom occurs. Sunday, March 10: N Lat: 5.55. W Long: 120.32. Dense masses of cloud to westward fringing horizon from the midst of which one tall pyramid upreared its craggy front to a height of about 40 ft with its rugged sides mellowed by the rays of Phoebus quickly sinking had a magnificent appearance. No divine service performed as the aspect of the heavens betokened squalls & rain. Have had occasional showers & it is now almost a dead calm. Read Paley again on the morality of the gospel & on the character of our Saviour—he shows that morality was not the prime object of his mission—his manner of teaching was that of short & expressive remarks [123] drawn very frequently from some passing event. He inculcates a mild & forbearing disposition, very different from that which has always been admired by the world but if the first were universal, mankind wd. live like brothers, if the second, or as he terms it, the heroic, were universal, every spot on the globe's surface would be a scene of contention. Paley adduces very obvious proofs of the candour of the New Testament writers, & by quotations from Josephus, Tertullian & others, shows many coincidences in the relation of casual circumstances between the gospels & their authors. Finished St. Matthew's Gospel this morning. 11 Vz. Have had a long conversation with Mr. R. on N.W. Coast of America, N.E. breeze commencing —clouds rising in that direction & frequent flashes of lightning observed, Monday, March 11: N Lat: 6.55. W Long: 121.11. Up at 8—began to read St. Mark's Gospel. After breakfast occupied for an hour in rummaging & arranging cabin. Lent Mrs. T. Shakespeare and Ryan, the ist vol: Pindar's works—read some pieces in it, but did not admire the spirit in which they are written—the satire is keen, but there is a very reprehensible laxity of morals & odious propensity to jest with things sacred. Regret having purchased the work. Read Mackintosh on Cholera. Maltebrun on oceanica. There is an evident resemblance in language, manners & customs between the inhabitants of the different groups of islands & the Malays, showing them to be branches from a common stock. The Malays have a tradition that they are a colony from Java, where they say a powerful empire existed formerly. M. thinks this tradition entitled to some degree of credit, & that possessing maritime knowledge the Javanese at a remote period, probably, between the 5th & 10th centuries gradually spread themselves over the neighbouring island. The origin of the oceanic negroes is involved in great obscurity. Read the account of Sumatra, all the Sunda group abound in the finest fruits & most valuable spices. The British have two establishments Natal & Marlbro' Fort but possess little political influence at Sumatra. Tuesday, March 12: N Lat: 8.17. W Long: 122.29. Up at 7—read the Rambler till breakfast time—wrote in the margin of pages in McK. what I recollect of the cholera at Glasgow. By the association of ideas, have been musing on the occurrences that took place at the hospital, & of my colleagues in office. Lisson, Walker, Douglas, O'Brien & Alick Campbell, & from my knowledge of their different characters, have been chalking out the career of each—Lisson, the slow & persevering, may rise to eminence in some provincial town. Walker & especially O'Brien, being desirous to shine as men of fashion, while students, tis difficult to say how they may get on, Walker possesses sterling worth & will soon get rid I think of his foppish notions,— [ 124] l m O'Brien was a pleasant companion, & of a smooth insinuating address which probably will prove more available to his advancement than more intrinsic merits,—Douglas had obtained an excellent education & in his studies displayed good abilities, but of which he had an overwhelming opinion— if he does not split on this rock or destroy his delicate constitution by debauchery, he is likely to distinguish himself. A.C. is a good hearted, careless being, better calculated to fulfill the duties of a highland laird, than those of his profession. Was more intimate with Walker than any of the others, & have promised to write him, which if I live, shall do. Maltebrun on Java, Borneo, Bali &c. Saw a frigate bird this evening. For some days have been frequently visited by a flock of tropic birds—6 or 7 together. Wednesday, March 13: N Lat: 9.16. W Long: 123.33. About a dozen or eighteen bottled nosed porpoises have been gamboling around us, coming close under stern. 8 P.M. Going W. by S. since 6—now nearly calm but very dark clouds rising from E. by S. & close thick rain—orders given for double reefing topsails. Up at 7—Finished observations on Cholera & afterwards (1 ia.m.) examined a small fish just caught & preserved it in spirits. Length 11 in.—Circ: behind pectorals 5.8 Snout to orbit 0.6 —to root of pectoral 2.1.—Length of pect: 0.8.—breadth 0.6. Snout to ventrals 2.8—Length of ventral 1.2—breadth 0.6 its root of anal 5. 26 rays in anal—55 in dorsal, which commences immediately posterior to occiput. It belongs to genus Coryphaena or subgenus Caranyomores of Sacepede p.216. Maltebrun on Celebes, the Molluccas & New Holland. There are interesting accounts of the Clove, Nutmeg & sago trees which shall extract on Saturday. Thursday, March 14: N Lat: 9.45. W Long: 124.35. Up at 8. Had hair polled after breakfast. Read Good on Intestinal Concretions— three varities mentioned—calcareous, fatty & scybalous. Improper use of chalk, magnesia, &c. gives rise to the first, in the inferior animals, they occur frequently, and are highly valued in oriental countries & worn as amulets they are termed bezoars. Good relates some curious instances of the expulsion of fatty substances per anum in man & then adverts to the formation of ambergris in the large intestine of the spermaceti whale. Masses of 100 lbs. wt. sometimes found floating on the deep. It is only formed say the whale fishers in sickly whales who do not deny on being harpooned & is found no higher than 7 feet from anus. Matters have been ejected from the human body in costive habits similar in appearance & constituents to ambergris. One case is alluded to by Ure, who gives a full account of the substance. He analyzed two specimens of ambergris, found it composed of 60 pr.ct. adipocere but no benzoic acid as other chemists assert. Sir E. Hume has [125] started a hypothesis to account for the existence of fat in the large intestine which he vainly endeavours to prove forms with assistance of the bile, fat for the supply of the body, which in certain states of the system is not absorbed, but either accumulates, or is voided, in support of this he advances the great emaciation & early death of children devoid of a gall bladder & the frequency of fatty concretion in that organ. He draws some arguments from the internal anatomy of the tadpole which do not bear on the subject. Also read Good on invermination—shall compare him tomorrow with Mck & make some extracts. Maltebrun on New Holland, Van Dieman's Island & New Zealand. Have been chatting with the ladies on the state of affairs at the eventful crisis, when we left the shores of Albion six months ago. Friday, March 15. N Lat: 10.19. W. Long: 124.58. A NE wind commenced at one & has since continued steadily: which after our many disappointments I hope may prove the veritable trade & blow with vigour. Today are six months on shipboard & according to G. have sailed 14,000 miles. Up at 7—read some papers in the Rambler—after breakfast 6th chapter of St. Mark. Engaged till 2 P.M. with various occupations, getting bones &c. boiled, adding the plants gathered in Invemesshire to general collection & laying together the paper to be used at the Sandwich Isles, removing books to a new shelf erected in cabin this morning. Destroyed a number of cockroaches found burrowing amongst books. Maltebrun on the Polynesian Islands. There is not much to be said on any of these—Otaheite is called the "Queen of the Pacific"— it is richer in fruits than any of the others. The dog whelps are thriving well, their eyes opened on the 13th day—they now have cut all their milk teeth, but incisors of inf maxilla. Have chosen the largest for myself & named him Nimrod. Mrs. T's is ycleped Bevis after the hound in Sir Walter Scott's Novel of Woodstock. They are very lively & frolicsome. Several stormy petrels seen this afternoon—they have been rarely observed by us in the Pacific. Saturday, March 16: N Lat: 11.37. Long: 126.18. Up at 7VZ. Compared Guthrie with Maltebrun. Engaged till 4 pm in making extracts from latter into Atlas. Have concluded third volume which has occupied me since February 25th. Promenaded deck for an hour, the coolness of the air rendering it practicable. Read the Rambler till 6 on Bashfulness & Criticism —since have been chatting with the ladies, collecting information from them respecting the Sandwich islands, some account of which will be expected from me at home. Their only export is sandal wood, the most important vegetable productions are Cocoa, tarro, yams, the castor oil tree, turmeric & ginger. The ladies' knowledge on these subjects is vague, but it will be useful for me to know beforehand what objects are most worthy of attention. [126] %t The Steward again yielded to his besetting sin today & during dinner behaved very insolently, particularly to G. & myself. Sunday, March 17: N Lat: 12.48. W Long: 127.34. Sat chatting last night till 12 with G. on the origin of the oceanic tribes &c. — it will be an important object of research in N.W. America to ascertain if tumuli & ruined encampments similar to those discovered to the eastward exist to westward of Rocky Mountains. It blew hard during night and I was saluted several times by a splash of water entering at scuttle, which effectually banished sleep—its being closed from within was of little avail. Up at six to visit cloaca. Borrowed Blair's Sermons from Mr. C. & read the sermon on Devotion so much admired by Dr. Johnson, also an excellent one on Sobriety of Mind in youth which I had formerly read at Glasgow. Have gone on with Paley's Evidences since 1 P.M. on the resurrection of Christ & the Propagation of the Religion. Monday, March 18: N Lat: 14.16. W Long: 130.19. Ganymede has been going at the rate of 6Vz knots & once 7V2. Up at 8. After breakfast read St. Mark, one of the prayers in Bogatsky & a sermon in Dwights Theology on Regeneration and its antecedents. If I could now view my condition as to religion in the same light as I did when wasted with illness in Sept., 1831, how I would endeavour by prayer & supplication "to fly from the wrath to come". Oh God, open my eyes to my sinful & helpless state. Let me have a lively sense of my own imperfections & Lord, listen to my prayers for grace, for the sake of my Redeemer Christ Jesus. All my endeavours at improvement are fruitless, for I yield to the slightest temptations. Began Maltebrun on Africa. Made some notes from Good on the treatment of worms and read him on Stricture of the Rectum. Have got from G. the use of Ellis on the Sandwich islands, read his account of Oahu. G. is anxious to visit Mouna Roa in Owyhee, if the undertaking is practicable & not too expensive, I shall accompany him. Tuesday, March 19. N Lat: 15.17. W Long: 133.18. Up at 8. After breakfast lent Mrs. C. Goldsmith's Miscellaneous works. Read his Traveller, in which met with many beautiful passages. Read Good again on Stricture of Rectum & the article on that subject in Cooper's Surgical Dictionary. Copied into MacK. who makes but slight mention of the disease, the diagnosis between spasmodic & callous stricture. Perused Good on Piles. Read in forenoon Ellis's account of his visit to Kirauea & description of the volcano—it must be a spectacle sublime & magnificent in the extreme—it is the largest volcano known. Maltebrun on Africa till 4 P.M. Have been thinking today who shall write to from the Sandwich Isles. My father, Dr. [127] Hooker & perhaps Uncle Alex.—shall go on with the epistle already commenced to Alick & must begin Dr. H's in a day or two. Wednesday, March 20: N Lat: 16.14. W Long: 136.5 Up at 8. Engaged till 12 in reading old letters from my father, A., Uncles A. & J.— writing A's epistle & oiling firearms, which during hot weather, especially, require incessant attention. Maltebrun on Egypt—a long dissertation on the question whether the isthmus always existed—in which I do not take much interest. Shall make some extracts regarding the Nile. Good on Prolapsus ani & commenced him on hepatic diseases. Respecting the physiology of Liver, he has of course little to say. All red blooded animals possess this viscus, but few except the carnivorous have a gall bladder—the elephant, rhinoceros, stag, camel, goat, horse, trichecus, porpoise, rat, ostrich & parrot are destitute of it, yet it has been found in all reptiles hitherto examined. Letters sent via Mexico from Oahu arrive in London at home in three months—if a chance presents while I am there, shall write my cousin Hugh to get me the instruments &c. required, giving him an order on the H.B. Coy. for the necessary sum & should my letter arrive before the Columbia ship sets sail, they will come to hand in May, 1834. Thursday, March 21: N Lat: 17. Long: 138.53. Engaged till 12 with Alick's letter—gave him an account of the chief incidents of the passage, and a sketch of the characters of my compagnons du voyage. Finished Maltebrun on Egypt. The French during their brief possession from 1798 till 1801 made great advances in the investigation of the antiquities &c. so richly strewn in all directions of that singular country. Continued Good on Hepatic diseases—in jaundice from spasmodic affection of bile ducts, he has found the aqua regia bath, recommended by Scott, successful in some cases, but useless in others. Shall copy formula for preparing it, if neither Thomson nor Paris contain the necessary instructions. Find that when I wrote to my father on Nov. 27, 1832 I recommended him to write to Uncle A. to procure me the work on Comparative Anatomy in London. This is fortunate, as my writing Hugh on the same subject will not have the effect of my getting two copies—shall order Linley's Introduction to Nat: Ord: & perhaps Sprengel. Friday, March 22: N Lat: 17.40. W Long: 141.50. Ever since taking the Trade, breeze has been more impetuous from 6 till midnight, when it resumes its wonted force. Began St. Luke's Gospel & read a few papers in Rambler after breakfast. Perused some of Aunt Mackilican's letters with all her oddities, she was an affectionate, single hearted woman. Informed A. of all I know regarding the Columbia—shall reserve remaining space until 128] after our arrival at port. Maltebrun on Nubia Sennaar & Abyssinia, the account of these countries is necessarily meagre. He does not consider Bruce as a narrator of undoubted veracity. Christianity has not had its usual humanizing effects in Abyssinia. Nubia & Sennaar are under the sway of the enterprising Pasha of Egypt, Mahomet Ali. Finished Good on Icterus—he makes several species founded on the difference of proximate cause rather exciting but as there is no certain diagnosis, these are unimportant besides there is no essential difference in their treatment. Saturday, March 23: N Lat: 18.35: W Long: 144.50. Up at 7. Wrote out receipt for Legacy to Uncle A. to be forwarded from Oahu. Examined Hooker's F.B.A. & marked in Richard's Catalogue of Natural Orders, those orders already described by H. In his arrangement he follows Dr. Candolle's prodromus. Maltebrun on the Barbary States. Tunis is the most civilized of these, but yields in fertility and political influence to Algiers. Morocco leather is one of their chief exports. They possess three varities of the Camel, one which goes five days journey in one, another goes 7 in one & a third which is very scarce & high priced, 9. On one of the latter an Arab has been known to travel 1000 miles in a week. Their horses are the finest in the world? All the offices requiring persons of education to fill them, are occupied by Jews, who are shamefully oppressed. Sunday, March 24. N Lat: 19.35. W Long: 148.2. Up at 7V2. Have been reading Paley all day & finished the Evidences of Christianity. The concluding chapters are ably written, and exceedingly interesting— shall peruse the Natural Theology next. This day week if all is well, shall attend Divine Service at Oahu & going as I am into a savage country I may not for many years, or perhaps never again have an opportunity of witnessing, & joining in its performance under a sacred roof. The distance for the last day is 202 miles & at noon we were 570' distant from Oahu. It is expected, if the wind continues, that we shall reach the desired haven on Thursday. Monday, March 25. N Lat: 20. W Long: 150.52. Up at 7V2. Wrote till 11 Vz at Uncle A's letter. Engaged till 1 in examining & numerating contents of foul linen bag. Began Maltebrun on Senegambia & Nigritia. Many points in the physical geography of this portion of Africa require elucidation. The climate is oppressively hot & violent hurricanes or tornadoes prevail in the bay of Benin, Gulf of Guinea &c. The Baobah must be a magnificent tree—it is a highly useful one, its hollow trunk being used as a dwelling house, temple &c. by natives. Reperused Good on the different species of Parabysma, for many of these obscure affections medical treatment is next [ 129 ] to unavailing. Have rather neglected Good & Mack, for some days, owing to letterwriting &c. Can not have much attention now for these my most important studies until we leave the Sandwich isles. Today have been followed by a bird, the size & figure of a small albatross with brown wings & back —breast & lower parts dark lead-coloured.—lower tail coverts white, tail short, feet projecting beyond it—face white & a white line extends transversely along root of upper mandible—bill the form of albatross' or petrel's —flight similar to that of albatross. Another bird of same kind appeared, at intervals, but did not approach so close. Our distance yesterday was overrated by 10 miles—today it was 170 miles & from Oahu 405. Tuesday, March z6. N Lat: 20.23. W Long: 153.27. Have all day been anxiously looking out for Owyhee, which ought now to be seen, altho' our position by lunar observations taken in the afternoon, is 60' to eastward of that by chronometers. Wrote at Dr. Hooker's letter till 12. Got out vasculum trowel &c. After dinner engaged in covering books— afterwards washed porpoise's cranium &c. in warm water previous to packing them in box at 6. Went up to foretopsail yard, but no trace of land could be discerned. Since have been chatting with the ladies—washing is performed by men at Oahu & is well got up—costs a dollar per dozen whatever the articles may be. Mine will be a heavy bill. 1130 j Honoruru 1833 Wednesday, March 27. N Lat: 20.52. Long: 156.13. Up at 6Vz & looking out saw a low point of Owhyhee bearing WSW. At 8 while we were all spying the land, the clouds rolled away & the snow capped summits of Mouna Roa & Mouna Kea were suddenly displayed to our admiring gaze, rearing high their lofty pinnacles & brightly glancing in the morning sun— dense strata of cloud overhung their sides. The bearing S by EV2 E. At 10— Moui was descried & has been in sight all day. Several of the birds mentioned on Monday seen. Engaged with divers preparations for landing &c. Since have been reading Delabeche on Volcanoes. After, the C. & I were chatting with the ladies who expected to dine on shore tomorrow. Remarked, that the last act of our tedious drama was being performed. Mrs. T. said the last scene was but a quarter of an hour after a very unlooked for scene occurred & in which she enacted a principal part. While sitting, reading, on the locker close by the window, an immense body of water dashed in the window frame & struck right against her drenching her thoroughly & then inundated the floor of both cabins. Mrs. T. sat motionless as a statue screaming hysterically until G. & I laid her in bed when she trembled violently & continued insensible for some time. Spt. Lavend: Conf: was administered. She soon recovered & now laughs at her misfortune. Thursday, March 28:—Oahu. Up at 6V2, having passed an almost sleepless night from the heavy lurching of ship. Now in the channel between Morokai & Oahu—the former seen dimly through the haze bearing E.N.E. level & of small elevation, weather side of latter bearing W. a bleak assemblage of barren volcanic rocks, completely destitute of verdure, receding a little in form of a crescent, they form a small shingly beached bay. As we proceeded the peaked & rifted rocks assumed various appearances, frequently that of a broad based cone—with jagged & broken sides, as if an extinguished crater, & now in the mountain gorges green spots could be discerned, & the beach was thinly fringed with clumps of cocoa nut trees. These promising appearances became more & more marked until we rounded Diamond Point when the village of Honoruru burst on the view, skirted in front by groves [131] of the Cocoa & bounded posteriorly by lofty mountains—intersected transversely by broad deep vallies richly clothed with a vegetation of trees and brushwood. Honoruru, seen from the offing appears a scattered village built without any apparent order. The King's country seat, the Mission House & the Billiard Room are the most conspicuous buildings. The sea dashing against the reefs, rises high in sheets of spray & within the reefs the water has a bright green colour. In the offing is a brig bound for China & another from Atroi. At ioVz the pilot boat arrived, having Mr. Charlton on board & at 11 Vz we came to anchor about 3 miles distant from shore. Was introduced to Mr. C. by his lady—at 12, they departed. Mrs. C kindly invited me to take up my residence with them during our stay. Mr. C. informed us that Mr. Finlayson, govr. at Columbia resided at Oahu for two months & purchased the brig Lama for 5000 dollars as a coaster. He went away on the 13th Sept. accompanied by Mr. Douglas who had arrived only 10 days previously from Monterey, California. Dr. McLachlan was still at Ft. Vancouver, officiating in his medical capacity. There is no opposition from the Americans in the coasting trade this season. Soon after the departure of the ladies, a canoe arrived freighted with Cyprians almost in a state of nudity & exceedingly ugly—they were paddled by a youth naked except his loin cloth. On being refused admission by us, they made for the brig on starboard side, there to display their charms, — it appears were successful. At 2 P.M. G & I went on shore in Mr. C's boat. Stokes & Foreman, being sent along with us to the care of the jailor. We were taken to Mr. French's house where we found a large party at dinner & among the rest Mr. C. & the ladies. Sat down & partook of some wild duck, sweet potato &c. Saw there Dr. Rook an American, Dr. Thomas & three or four Commanders of ships. Learn't from Mr. C. that Mr. Stewart with whom I travelled in August was a missionary here at one time, & in a work lately published on the islands has by his remarks much displeased the residents. For several years past the missionaries favored by the minority of the king & supported by the leading chiefs have held unlimited sway, preventing the amusements &c of the foreigners & natives & consequently between them & the former, bad feeling soon sprung up. Party spirit has run high for sometime especially since the decease of the Queen Karamana, about 9 months ago. Kiaekeoali, the prince royal, assumed the reins of government, abolished the laws formerly obeyed, partie: agt. fornication & drunkeness, saying: the laws against murder, adultery & theft are still in force, but with respect to fornication & drunkeness you may do as you like & in these crimes he has set them the example by his own conduct & that of his attendants, so that now things are in a state of [132] ■a anarchy. The king is lazy & the deposed authority will interfere. My informer in these matters is Dr. Rooke. After adjourning from Mr. F's who is one of the principal merchants here, was conveyed in Mr. C's one horse- vehicle to his house along with ladies, where we were soon joined by the Drs. R. & Gairdner. Accompanied them to the mission house where saw Mr. Bingham & Dr. Judd. They informed us that another volcano was lately in action near the summit of Mouna Roa, larger than Kirauea. Went afterwards to Dr. Rooke's house, where took tea, eating baked Taro instead of bread, which liked pretty well. Mr. R. offered me a bed in a native house which accepted thinking it would put Mrs. C. to inconvenience to accommodate me tonight & am now in it. It is a large grasshouse on a frame work of poles tied together with native rope. The grass is fastened to thin rods passing horizontally from pole to pole. It is carpeted with mats & divided into two apartments by a curtain—in the posterior of which pillows are placed for us with a rug of native cloth to fold over us. A census taken of Honoruru a year & a half ago gave for the village 7,500 & the suburbs 1500 in all 9,000— less only by 600 than the population of the whole Georgian group. The natives seem a good natured race—they are generally above the middle size & some of them very muscular—their features, broad & flat & heads large. Those who are not naked wrap themselves up in a large piece of cotton cloth. Nymphs of the pave numerous. Friday, March 29: Oahu—Honoruru. Found native bed comfortable enough but did not sleep well, being too much excited. Disturbed by howling of curs & the no less disagreeable cries of the guards of the regal palace, who ever & anon from their brazen throats set up a loud yahooi. Stirred up G at 67^ & we arose & after an agreeable ablution in delightfully cool water, walked out & proceeding through the village found the Kanakas all astir—ascended Punchbowl Hill, but we were met near its summit by a horde of natives headed by a handsome Marquesan, who acted as a lame interpreter & informed us that the hill was tabooed to strangers, but at the same time gave us to know that Vz a real would open a passage thro the formidable array of Kanakas who backed him. Having nothing less than a dollar & finding them determined to carry their opposition even to violence faced about & descended—it was wild & picturesque to behold the different groups perched on the bare peaks of rock—sometimes laughing & joking & at others in stern debate. Arrived at Mr. C's at Wz where breakfasted & found ladies well. Mr. C. informed us that govt, have restricted foreigners from ascending unless accompanied by some known person. Having talked together lastnight of exploring the island spoke to Mr. C. about it. He thinks we ought to have [ 133] a native guide & 2 or 3 boys to accompany us. Propose setting out on Monday. Accompanied Mr. C. to his store, & met Capt Royal, who had just landed. Spoke to him about case of instruments. Mr. R. says none are for sale here. Royal is to lay the ship's case out for inspection. Went off to ship—where had lunch, got all necessaries in portmanteau, & dirty clothes bag ashore. Called at Mr. Rooke's en passant. Spoke to him about turpentine & other wants which he says can all be supplied. Got to Mr. C's at 2 & dined there—had some nice bananas & watermelon—like former much. After dinner two half cast ladies called, one very comely, adorned with numerous finger rings, smart bonnet & shawl, & she manoevered her white pocket handkerchief with all the grace of a European belle. They both had beautiful hair which was tastefully braided. Accompanied my friends on a visit to American lady Mrs. Perkins, who resides in a nicely built & well finished house, his Majesty's country seat. Mrs. P. is a ladylike elegant woman with fine regular features & supports a conversation well. Returned to Mr. C's for tea. Capt. Grimes & a Mr. Thomson called. The conversation was desultory. Mr. Cay. says his majesty has been very correct in his conduct since his accession to the throne & takes a proper interest in state affairs. Mr. C & the American consul Mr. Jones are framing, or assisting in making a code of laws. By Mr. C's accot. there are intrigues on all sides going on amongst the chiefs. By his representations which in the main agree with Mr. Rooke's, the missionaries are anything but what they ought to be. Am now domiciled with Mr. C at present 11 Vz —have got quarters in a neat little house apart from mansion. The apartment is 6 paces by 5—nicely white washed & carpeted with mats. There is a handsome cane bedstead, with all &cs.—dressing table, mirror &c. & cane sofa. Light and air have admission by a large window occupied by Venetian blinds. Rose who along with Bevis came in today sleep in one corner & I am writing at dressing table. Saturday, March 30: Oahu. Up at 6V2. Read Bogatsky & looked over Taxidermy. After breakfast, went with Mr. C. to Ganymede—asked Capt. R. for Instrument Case to inspect. He demurred & provoked me a good deal by his remarks. However I insisted on seeing it, & having found that it contained trephining instruments, thanked him & came on shore in a canoe Met Mr. Rooke & G. Called at French's, looked at india rubber &c. then went to Rooke's at n^ & in going along passed thro' an assemblage of natives engaged in throwing a flat, circular stone about 3 or 4 in. in diameter by turns along the level highway. Noticed some very athletic well formed fellows amongst them—then went to G., mentioned to him my transactions with Royal & from that we came to some talk on our own matters. Went off again & got the ivory handled dessert kvs. & fks. which presented [ 134] Mri to my kind & hospitable friend, Mrs. C. —at dinner met Dr. Rooke. Mrs. T, he & I rode up the valley of Manoah 6 miles—went along the plain, smooth & level as a bowling green for 3 miles—then turned up a narrow road on left side of valley. On each side the puhalleh, a large white flowered plant grew profusely & a small syngenesious blue flowered one, the native name of which was unknown, was equally abundant. The ground was now broken & rugged & the road in many places fetlock deep in muddy water. The valley almost entirely laid out in taro patches was bounded on each side in lower part by smooth round hills green with herbage but nearly destitute of trees. Some asses & horned cattle were grazing on the brow of southermost, as we ascended, the trees became more numerous—the hibiscus or hou being one of the most conspicuous. In some places the broad black square of rock appearing with regularity set off to advantage the spots of brighter verdure, which formed at their base. Other situations presented bare, rounded prominences extending from summit to base & the gullies between these supported a rich vegetation of trees & ferns. Specimen of unusual regularity of Nature's works—higher—the hills were completely invested with trees & shrubs & the valley was closed posteriorly by very steep & precipitous, wooded hills rising abruptly. At or near the foot of these was the late queen, Karamana's country residence where in June she breath'd her last. During her illness upwards of 500 ti leaf huts were built round her cottage, & inhabited by natives who, as soon as her breath departed, set up the "coronach"—in the midst of the valley in this neighbourhood arose a reddish looking broad based ridge of bare rock which at a distance one might imagine to be a "heath clad hill". In riding out met John Adams & party on horseback—did not know him until he had passed. Natives carrying bundles of taro root—one at each end of a pole laid on shoulder with whom we exchanged the saluation of aroha or welcome. Horses went steadily at a canter; in guiding the bridle is pulled in the direction opposite to that you wish them to follow in Spanish manner. In returning called on Mrs. Perkins. Got home at 7—had tea, sat chatting for an hour—went down to Rooke's—he is to get me two aneurism needles made. Returned at 10 & met G. who intends setting out on Monday morning. Cannot go till forenoon. Sunday, March 31: Oahu. Slept soundly & did not get up till nearly 8. Accompanied Mrs. Taylor to church at n. Did not like Mr. Tinker's sermon—it was a tissue of unfounded assertion & mis-statement, shall consider some of these when once again on board. Was surprised at his frequent allusion to secular affairs, which I was quite unaccustomed to hear from the pulpit, but think under particular circumstances, the practice of [i35] commenting on passing events proper. Was introduced to Mr. Johnston, the Schoolmaster & his wife. He is a native of Dundee—they are both very well spoken of. Called on G.—conversed with him concerning our journey. Expected a note from him but it has not arrived. Met Captain Royal at dinner—since have been writing to my father & Alick & have finished their letter. Was to have been presented to the King, but he does not receive visitors today, being lazy and undressed. Am to have two of his men as guides. Mr. C. says he has been very correct in his conduct since he assumed the supreme authority, and thinks he made a very sensible speech. Monday, April ist: SVz. Cottage of Kaikiovi, native physician head man of district Kaneohe. Up at 7—engaged in preparing for journey till 12, found my hospitable friends very anxious to assist me in every way. The king called after breakfast. He is about 5 ft. 8 in. in height, and well built, & is rather superior in the cast of his countenance to the generality of natives—there are many finer looking men. He was neatly dressed in European style & accompanied by some of his officers, one of whom Colonel Stevenson, a half breed was an exceedingly intelligent looking man. Met G. & agreed to meet him in some part of Kolau. Visited school with Mrs. T. & Mr. C. but scholars had just been dismissed. Saw some good specimens of handwriting. Gave A's letter to Mr. Charlton. Geo. Adams a native who understands English & two Kanaka lads appointed to attend me by his Majesty, who has ordered that provisions are to be provided wherever we stop. By Mr. C's recommendation, rode up the valley of Nuano to Pari, accompanied by George, also mounted—the Kanakas on foot, following as the road was over small streams, stone dykes which had to be pulled down before we could pass & throughout was very rugged, there being some very steep descents over bare rock, which I could not have believed were passable on horseback. An excellent & commodious pack blunderbuss charged with brandy was broken with a fall. Nuano is a narrow, thickly inhabited valley bounded on each side by richly wooded & highly picturesque hills. Met numerous parties of natives. On arriving at entrance or border of Pari, saw G. on a neighbouring eminence & came up to his attendants & baggage a little farther on. Dispatched horses home & accompanied by George descended into one of the neighbouring gullies to botanize. Collected some elegant ferns & a few specimens of shrubs & returning to baggage, met G. & went along pathway leading to Pari. The ascent was easy but arriving at summit saw before me an undulating plain extending to ocean, but the descent to it was by a steep precipice of perhaps 200 feet in height—at times along narrow ledge of rock, without a shrub to hold fast [136] by. In other spots the branches of trees formed with the footmarks in the rocks, a natural winding stair case. Turned aside at different points to pick up plants & my attendants soon made themselves useful in this way. On each side of pass were tall, frowning & I should think inaccessible mountains— that on left presented a perpendicular face to westward from summit to base— an appalling precipice. The scenery here was romantic & wild in the extreme but from the bright green of the hibiscus & the rich luxuriance of ferns & convolvuli, it also merited the appellation of beautiful. Met with the convolvulus abundantly k a beautiful species of grass. Large pineapple trees were scattered about but the ti plant was more scarce than in the highlands. Got two specimens of a small grey butterfly, a grasshopper & a large spider. Saw two owls but not within shot (loaded gun on summit of Pari). The plain was watered by a small stream descending from Pari, which about midway down watered some tarropatches, where found a species of Polygonium & some others unknown. Saw a plantain or banana with flowers & unripe fruit. On looking back now at the mountains of the Pari the appearance was grand & magnificent. The summit of Kahanaahoa, the highest peak to left was enveloped in mist. The range of mountains to right extend along with same perpendicular faces to the point of Heahea 7 or 8 miles(?) distant. On the left in the distance, the high & perpendicularly faced hills of Kairua & nearer the set, the sugar loaf peak of Oromunna, which in old times was fortified. Passed a hamlet called Kairokola & arrived at the house of a chief, Kaikiovi, who is at present with his Majesty, but his wife, a portly personage! performed the duties of hospitality. As we neared house, saw a naked savage pursuing a young pig. Entered house, which was built in usual style. It was filled with men, women and children. Laid down baggage & afterwards had a most refreshing ablution by twilight in a large calabash of water. Gave out some tea to George & went to a hut to see the process. The pig was baked in a fire under ground & covered over with ti leaves. The kettle was boiled on wood fire in middle of apartment, which was hung round with large calabashes & in it were some pretty specimens of maize kept for seed. G's plaid was spread out on mats in lieu of a table cloth & a pig & fowl placed on it to which we fell like wolves, tooth & nail. I liked both much particularly pig which was sweet & tender. The baked taro was inferior to what I got at Oahururu. I had some excellent rolls from Mission house. Since have been writing & packing plants & natives sleeping, laughing or chatting around us. nVz~there are now 12 natives around us, men & women nearly all asleep. I am lying stretched on plaid leaning on left elbow & writing. Tuesday, April 2: Karuanni—in the house of Mohu chief of said district. $Vz P.M.—arrived here at 8 & found the hut in darkness. The chief, a [137] tall man wrapt in a white tapa led the way into his dwelling. The floor was strewed with grass & a variety of rubbish. About a dozen dogs at least were yelping & whining & men, women & children squatted in every corner. A rude fireplace in middle contained a few dying embers which emitted a feeble glimmer & the only exit for smoke was by the door. Had fire kindled & kettle of water under way—afterwards a refreshing ablution. Geo. informed me that a pig was being baked but was so long in appearing that I packed up plants, & then supped on goat's milk, biscuits, Poi & salt fish, boiled taro & finished with a cup of tea & now a whole roasted pig of moderate size was carried in on a large slightly concave board. Told George to preserve some of it for tomorrow & then reclining on plaid spread on mats, watched the motions of my fellow inmates. The Chief was fondling an ugly dog & allowing the brute to eat chewed taro out of his mouth. He was surrounded by old men & women & gossiping with George. One of my Kanakas betook himself to dismember pig with a gulley & made dreadful work of it. They are now all there tearing away tooth & nail with great voracity bolting huge mouthfuls. Left Kaueohe this morning at $Vz & in passing through hamlet saw five flocks of turkies & poultry. Air was 68. The neighbouring peaks of precipitous mountains adjoining the Pari of Nuano were cloud capt. Crossed a small bay by a long embankment, through which sluices were existing. Had to cross these on the "unstedfast footing" of a rotten spar. Arrived at Aeheia. Carried over some streams by Kanakas. Trudged along side of a grassy hill, where convolvuli were very beautiful. Waded across another bay & arrived at Waiholi, where with much ado, got kettle boiled & some taro. George very opportunely produced some of the remains of last night's repast in the form of pork & pieces of turkey. Set out again & found country improving in appearance—becoming more fertile. Walked generally on a smooth sandy beach, now & then cutting off some jutting point. G. started on before, desirious of reaching Kuhuku, the N.W. point tonight. I took it more leisurely, but overtook him eating bananas. I mentioned my design of halting from i till 3, or at least to arrange collections. Both stopped at a hut or shed at the foot of bare & very precipitous mountain which frowned over us in naked grandeur—the beautiful smooth beach inviting us to bathe—sent two kanakas with surfboards. Lying flat on these impelled themselves with great velocity by merely using their hands as paddles. Tried it for a quarter of an hour, but fell off. On coming in, drunk juice of a cocoa nut, but disliked it. Feet severely scratched by coral bottom. Arranged plants there & got their native names from George with their uses. Gairdner set out as I was detained till 4. Passed several pretty valleys, but they all yield the palm of beauty & sublimity to Kekaneh. Bought a [138] calabash of poi from a chief woman, then walking along passed many plantains but without ripe fruit. Coming to a cluster of houses where a goat was giving suck to four kids, drove them away & milking her in the King's name nearly filled kettle. All day as far as sight extended—a line of huge foaming breakers have marked the point where reefs terminate. A sound is occasioned, similar to that caused by a waterfall. Am very sleepy & must conclude. Attendants are all snoozing. There are varieties enough vermin running about to fill a vasculum. Wednesday, April 3: Laieh —house of Pekah, chief of district. 7 A.M. Slept soundly last night despite swarming of insects & the roaring of breakers, (the house is situated within a few yards of beach). Awoke at 3%. Performed ablutions. The inhabitants were huddled up in farther extremity of apartment—cats & dogs lying in every direction, articles of barter, sandal wood, herbs of different kinds &c. piled at one side of our end of house, on opposite my baggage placed. Got under way at 5V2 along a beautiful beach of white sand on which surf rolled with great fury. A shower coming on, Kanakas fled to a sheltered spot & did not stir till it was over. They dislike rain much—which is surprising. Left beach & have since travelled along a beautiful prairie richly adorned with convolvuli, groves of hibiscus, large pine apple trees & plantains. The sugar cane in some spots grew to the height of 6 or 8. Its stem chewed affords an agreeable relief to thirsty traveller by yielding a sweet juice. Plain bordered by a range of low hills which intervene between it and mountains—the latter are richly clothed & their summits fringed with wood. The hamlet of Laieh is situated at extremity plain & presents the most perfect picture yet seen of rural comfort. The inhabitants are better dressed. Large flocks of handsome turkies are feeding around dwellings—hogs running about & beautiful goats frisking with their kids. Find that G. slept here last night & started an hour ago. As George says there is not a comfortable house at Kuhuku, have arranged to breakfast here. The habitation large & commodious—the Chief sitting with his lap dog by his side in centre leaning on a pillow & wrapt in a cotton cloth. He is of high descent allied to royalty. About 40 natives are lolling around doorway within. Most of them attracted by our approach while George prepares breakfast. Am writing 8 A.M. Have breakfasted very heartily on part of pig cooked last night, some boiled taro & dried poi, washed down with tea. Had here the most complete set out yet met with. Three large oblong stoneware trenchers, a blue cup & red saucer, two forks & two pewter spoons were produced & when meal was concluded, water was presented spontaneously for washing hands. Am now going to pack up plants collected this morning & shall then take the road again. 3 P.M. on leaving Laiehe—plain became more sandy *39. & barren, flanked towards sea by large hillocks of white and destitute of vegetation. Started several flocks of plover. Turned aside to a house around which upwards of 150 goats were feeding but there being no enclosure could not catch. Found a new specimen however. Next entered a marshy plain, saw large flocks of wild duck in a large pond at some distance. Reached Kuhuku about ioVz. The plain here extends a considerable way towards sea, ending a point it seems. George says this district was thickly (populated) a few years ago. Says the people attending school all day. The only diversity in appearance of plain from Kuhuku to Waimea was its being dry and sandy or marshy. The same range of low grassy hills continued to border it but at length seemed to be lost in central ridges which now were craggy, destitute of wood & not more than 1000 feet in height. Got a few new specimens but for last few miles none. Passed a clump of cocoa nut trees or a grove of plantains. Drunk the milk of a young cocoa nut which liked. The natives collected around us whenever we rested. Saw one with a book, which caused him to read. It was composed of extracts from Old Testament, translated into native tongue. Reefs at short distance from shore as denoted by the magnificent breakers which extended as far as eye could reach. Arrive at Wiamea at 3 P.M. & am now in the house of Hevaheva, formerly High Priest to Tamehameha. He is a tall, elderly man of seemingly shattered constitution & with a good natured expression of countenance. He is reclining on a mat chatting with George. Had a bath in small fresh water basin accompanied by a Kanaka boy, an excellent diver. Dined on fried fowl, yam & taro. Arranged plants. Set out on horseback for Wairua, cantering briskly when state of road permitted. Having put my horse to his speed, he became restive when I checked him, reared & capered. A Kanaka led to ford of the Ina river & having dismounted met Mr. Emerson accompanied him to his habitation at 7VZ where Gairdner had been since 3 P.M. preparing for the ascent of Mouna Kala tomorrow. Promised to accompany him & made arrangements accordingly to start at sunrise. Got some interesting information from Mr. E. regarding natives which shall enter when more at leisure. Now sitting in shirt in our grass hut fitted up in European style. Thursday, April 4th: Waialua. Mr. Emerson's. Up at 6 & having breakfasted, set out a little after 7 for Mouna Kala. G. & I rode by turns to the base of mountain, a distance of six miles—stopped at a house around which was a flock of about 500 goats. Found the possessor to be an Englishman. Had some milk & proceeded—arrived at base a little after 8 & commenced ascent by entering a gully or rather here it was a glen & our way lay along a narrow water course, blocked up with large stones which much impeded us. [ 140] Thermom: at base 74. The vegetation consisted of tall trees of different kinds, large handsome ferns, groves of plantain & papaw & bushes of myrtle in flower & fruit. A thick growth of a low herbaceous plant somewhat resembling genus Polygonium formed the carpeting beneath us. Much fatigued in this part of ascent & lagged behind. Overtook G. at a small ti-leaf hut, had provisions divided in case we should separate. Emerged from valley about 9V2 & followed path formed by the Sandal Wood Cutters along one of the ridges. The general aspect of the mountains is that of sharp projecting ridges & deep narrow gullies, alternating with each other —along one of these ridges our path lay & we trudged on, exposed to the heat & glare of a tropical & unclouded sun through a thick brushwood of fern, frequently having on all fours to climb very rugged precipices, or with wary steps & clear head to proceed along ridge where it did not present more than 2 feet of flattish surface & its sides for many feet down perpendicular as a garden wall. Much pleased with the music of the feathered choristers & heard some pretty notes. Saw a beautiful bright scarlet bird with tips of wings black—about the size of a Sparrow. In the yawning gully on each side was a dense forest of trees & here and there an enormous fern spreading wide its elegant fronds. Saw in gulley to left a small stream flowing along a perpendicular surface of rock for a height of 50 or 60 feet. About n entered a forest which extended to summit & were involved in a dense mist. The trees for the most part were invested with a luxuriant covering of moss to their extremest branches & uniting above from the opposite sides formed a natural archway over us as we clambered by the assistance of the branches over the large roots & decayed trunks which in every part obstructed our passage. The moisture here was excessive—the moss clad trees being hung with large dewdrops & the scanty patches of earth, soft & yielding so that the footing was very deceitful. Much trouble was occasioned by our getting entangled in the tough branches of climbing plants. Arrived at summit about 1 Vz P.M. & travelling along a level plateau for some distance could see no higher peak. Chose a small amphitheatre about 20 feet diameter— surrounded by large trees which each supported a destructive number of parasites & noble ferns. Among the trees noticed the Hydrangea growing to a height of 20 or 30 feet—very similar to the species cultivated in Britain. Here our attendants spread seats of fern leaves for us & unpacking the bread, beef & watermelon prepared for us by Mr. Emerson, made a hearty meal. Our Kanakas sat down along with us to their boiled taro & got some beef h salt butter which they seemed greatly to relish. While G. made a barometrical observation I collected a number of parasitical ferns & mosses. The 141 ] thermon: stood at 56° & the barom: at 26 in & G. made the height to be 3400 feet. Being wet with the dew, felt chilly & uncomfortable, but the fatigue of descending proved an excellent remedy. Forced a path downwards, sometimes slipping through the moist covering of earth between roots of trees up nearly to the middle of the branch elaned upon, breaking, sliding down several feet. Came out of the forest by 3*4 & perched on a prominent point of ridge could see for a short way the gully on each side, densely wooded & adorned with a rich underwood of beautiful convolvuli flowering shrubs & magnificent ferns—the stems of which latter were often at least 6 or 7 in. diameter, all beyond was an impenetrable sheet of mist. In five minutes after fog had cleared away from foreground & disclosed to view the ridges and gullies extending to base of mountain & smiling in the sunshine, a peep of the sea obtained far to the left but Waiarua still veiled in mist, which however was rapidly dispersing, seeming to roll up the mountain at 3 1/3. Waiarua & the Coast on right to a great distance visible, diversified with light & shade. The appearance of the bright blue ocean margined with foaming breakers & in the distance mixing almost imperceptibly with the soft, overhanging, hazy clouds was singularly beautiful & with the wide extended plain & mountain gullies formed a glorious landscape. 5 P.M. Since 3—Descending the narrow & precipitous ridges which proved still more arduous than ascent & requiring if possible greater circumspection & now at ti-leaf hut. Air-67. There is here a plantation of Ava, the root of which has intoxicating and narcotic properties. Passed through rocky glen & found it the most fatiguing part of journey. Mounted horses at base & rode to Joe Thomas's the goatherd's where had some milk. Got to Mr. Emerson's about 8—had tea. After joining in Divine Worship retired to sleeping house. Prepared baggage & instructed George to dispatch the Kanakas at daybreak. Hired horses to convey us to Honoruru at the exorbitant charge of 4 dollars, but am told this is the usual charge. Made an excellent collection of plants, but cannot pack them until arrival at Honolulu. The largest native I have seen is a Kanaka appointed by Mr. Emerson as a native teacher & who has been our guide from the mountain tonight. He is, I should think, 6 ft. 2 or 3 in. height & of herculean dimensions, rather an Ethiopic countenance with a profusion of black curly hair sprinkled posteriorly with grey on his huge pate. He has a very youthful appearance but calls himself 28. Mr. E. states the population of Waialua as about 8000. Amongst these it is said there are 1600 readers, but the number of those who understand what they read, or can read at all ad aper- turam libri is exceeding few, some only know a few letters, others a few lines, yet they all come under the denomination of Readers. The Chief of a [ 142 ] 1 district delegates his authority to a certain number of Headmen, who each presides over a certain locality. In levying money the King demands a certain sum from each chief, the latter from each headman & he from each Kanaka within his boundaries. The superiors contribute their own share individually. Friday, April 5: Waialua. Up at 6. Dispatched Kanakas with baggage. Went over Mr. E's inclosure with him. He has got things in a state of progressive improvement, forms excellent lime from coral. After breakfast, wrote part of yesterday's journal. Started at 9, accompanied by George as guide. Rode along an extensive upland plain covered with grass, yellow flowered shrub & some convolvuli bounded on the right by the Kala range of mountains & on the left by another range the name of which did not learn. Crossed many dangerous ravines & twice obliged to dismount—several streams about 3 or 4 feet deep. As we approached Pearl River, the plateau became nearly devoid of vegetation & the rocks naked or covered with dry, red sand, appeared. The coast here is deeply indented with 3 or 4 firths & is low & very flat. The lower parts of the mountain vallies well cultivated. Along margin of upland plain are several huts—stopped at one belonging to a Briton, Jack Watson & had some goat's milk. Proceeded for a mile gradually nearing sea—dismounted at a hut by roadside & had a water melon. Rode on past land belonging to Dr. Rooke's wife. Again began to ascend a difficult pass & crossed several steep ravines. Saw the saltwater pond. From the side of Mouna Roa, a hill five miles distant, had a favorable view of Honoruru & the shipping in the harbour. Thought we could distinguish the Ganymede. The form of Punchbowl Hill as seen from this quarter entitles it somewhat to its name. There are large fish ponds belonging to the King: formed by coral embankments running across from one point to another & open to sea by sluices, similar to the one at Aieha. Rode through sea outside of embankments, or walls with legs tucked on saddle for a considerable way. Afterwards crossed one or two streams & arrived at Honoruru about 7. Met Mr. C. & Royal—the latter said Ganymede is to sail on Sunday. Got to Mr. C's house & welcomed in the garden by the ladies. Performed ablutions, shifted &c. in my house & going to tea, found Captain R. there. He is well provided with live stock. Baggage arrived about 9. Heard part of a letter read from the commander of the Bien Aise, who while at the New Hebrides, at banicolo as the natives term it, discovered some remains of La Perouse, but the fact of his having perished here was established previously and a monument erected to his memory. Retired at 1 o & turned in. Saturday, April 6: Honoruru. Mr. C's. Up at 6Vz. Engaged until now— 1g Vz —in writing up journal, visiting garden with Mrs. T. & sundry other [143] occupations. Paid boy for a horse. The Kanakas have been loitering about all morning—have told them to call at 3 P.M. Madame Kinau, the next in authority to the king called after breakfast, she is an immense woman with large round features, a regular bouncer. Her dress—a silk bonnet & shawl & gaudy cotton gown. Saw Madame Boki this morning at breakfast, she ate in European fashion & did not exceed the bounds of moderation. Her features are of a superior cast but from her frequent intoxication are gross & bloated. She & another are the sole survivors of the party who accompanied Rihoriho & his consort to Britain. 10. P.M. Occupied till dinner time (zVz ) in changing plant papers—the plants first packed have unavoidably been too long untouched & will not make good specimens; Have left some work undone. After dinner accompanied Mr. Charlton to his warehouse & got from him 15 dollars, he also paying the Kanakas 31/2 & the horse hire 4.—in all zzVz. Called at Dr. Rooke's in returning. Saw G. who complained of fatigue. Dr. R. informed me that aneurism needles could not be made in the given time but he is to forward them by first opportunity to Ft. Vancouver. Rode out after 4 along with Mrs. Taylor in the direction of Waititi. Saw numbers of native equestrians male & female returning from Waititi where they go on Saturdays to bathe. Met several cavalcades generally riding furiously. Black Allan, the Publican's yard by roadside, filled with horses & I guess his house with thirsty mortals. Struck off level highway at this spot & turned down a road to right leading to beach—along which cantered for some distance & passing through the largest groves of cocoa either Mrs. T. or I have seen, arrived at Waititi a small fishing hamlet. It has a beautiful, sandy beach, admirably calculated for bathing. Met Madame Boki & retinue, her brows encircled with garlands of pulu. Turned homewards at Waititi— called to enquire for Mrs. Perkins who has been complaining. Saw several pretty large flocks of goats & one of sheep at Allan's house.—some horned cattle & horses grazing on plain. Arrived in time for tea & found Captain R. there—in the evening all chatting together. Mr. C. states that a horse can be purchased for two dollars at Ft. Vancouver—he recommended me to take a saddle, but shall not. There are 21 grogshops here. The licence is 80 dollars & the fines are for the first offence, 40 dollars which is doubled the second. There are few brawls amongst the sailors, who, on one occasion have been ashore to the number of 1500. Stokes & Foreman are now confined in irons in the fort & were ordered out today to witness the punishment of some Americans, who have been convicted of robbing the American Consul's house. Sunday, April 7: — Honoruru. Up at 6. Accompanied Mrs. Taylor to Punchbowl Hill. Welcomed by a large group of natives of both sexes 144] at summit, several had books & one read a translation of the Acts of the Apostles ad aperturam libri. Ikanakas, the chief of the fort was there—he is a heavy looking fellow & I am told a great glutton. His name means, the man eater. On the highest ridge of the hill which faces the harbour, guns are placed, some of them long 32s. At summit there is a level & nearly circular grassy plain, on which sheep are browsing. Crossed along this plain and descended by a circuitous route around side. In a neighbouring well cultivated valley between the Hill & Nuano, Mrs. T. pointed out two large tamarind trees which have borne fruit. After breakfast packed up some of clean linen & then went for half an hour to native church. It is a long, narrow grass house—186 feet in length & 66 in breadth, having the additional support of two central rows of posts supporting roof & rafters across. Entered by 3 doors, one at each end & in the middle—the floor is formed of small volcanic scoriae. Pulpit opposite middle door. Mr. Bingham officiated & was engaged in the sermon when I came in. In the central parts the most respectably dressed natives were seated on chairs or on short benches & seemed for the most part attentive. At the outskirts towards each end, the lower orders— generally decently dressed, were squatted on their mats, or standing. Few of those at the end where I stood appeared to be listening to discourse. Accompanied ladies to church. Heard Mr. Tinker & liked him better. Captn. R. & Mr. Ryan at dinner—conversation about whalers &c.—the men of these ships are frequently defrauded by owners. Soon left dinner table & followed ladies to the verandah or Ranai behind house under which we sat & chatted, amused by the playfulness & prattle of two pretty children.—one a lively girl, daughter of Mrs. Perkins, the other Dibby Douciett, a protegee formerly of Mrs. Taylor's. Went to church in the evening with Mrs. T.—heard a good sermon from a Mr. Clark. Fancy that my voice is extended in compass since I last sung in church. Capt. R. accompanied us. Monday, April 8: Off Oahu. 7V2, P.M. Up at 6. Planted for Mrs. Taylor, who assisted me, several bulbous roots & sowed the dahlia seeds in a small inclosure near fish pond. Mr. C. talks of having a fish-pond on opposite side of avenue which will give an air of uniformity to the grounds in front & if both are surrounded with trees add much to the beauty of his garden if it may be so termed. During breakfast, had a visit from one of the Ex Queens whose name I forget, she is next in rank but much inferior in size to Kinau. After breakfast, finished packing clothes, went down to French's & made some purchases. Paid Dr. Rooke's acct. & bade him adieu. Lost silk pocket handkerchief—the second since landing & the last of my stock but one. Returned to house about 11 Vz —& sat conversing with ladies [145] J r till nearly 2—chiefly about G's conduct towards them. They admit him to have many sterling qualities, but think him proud & vain of his attainments & aiming at singularity in his manner. Think this estimate of his character in the main correct. Reed, from a comely native called Quillina, for whom Mrs. T. was cutting out a dress two specimens of Tapa, printed & a small drinking calabash. In printing tapas they cut out the figure on a piece of bamboo on which the dye is placed. Took farewell of the ladies about 2 & promised to correspond with them. Went down to Mr. C's warehouse—found Capt. Royal there. Gave my note to Mr. C. for zzVz dollars £5.12.6. Got a native straw hat for which a dollar was paid. Returned along with Royal to dine with Mr. C. & met Dr. Rooke. Sat till about %Vz when again parted with my friends. Went to Mr. C's store, where remained till 5. Met two Captains of whalers—loud, blustering fellows & one of them displaying a profusion of seals and finger rings. Got on board at 5 & were soon under way. Here bade adieu to Mr. Charlton. He gave me many kind assurances of willingness to procure or do anything for me which I might in future require in Oahu. Our pilot was Alick Adams, an old Scotchman from near Arbroath. He has been at these islands 30 years & has a large family. He has not yet lost his native patois which I was pleased again to hear. On the Fawn a ship which arrived today there were about a hundred prostitutes. Every Jocky had his Jenny gazing at us as we passed. Fired a salute of four half inch guns when we had cleared the shipping— soon lost sight of Honoruru & the beautiful vallies of Nuano & Manoah, but the Kala range of mountains was visible till darkness supervened. The ladies & I have today parted after having sojourned together nearly seven months on terms of friendship which has been gradually ripening. With Mrs. T. I have interchanged sentiments on many subjects of importance—moral & religious & on books, men & manners. Since seeing her on shore, my opinion of her character has become still more favorable. She has shown moderation where nothing but violent & sweeping censures were heard i.e. on the Missionaries conduct. Mrs. C. if it is right in me to judge seems less imbued with a religious spirit, but is equally fond of reading on other subjects, altho' not so conversant with the Poets. Mr. C. I am sure is an excellent husband & relative, but unfortunately for himself has become embroiled with the Missionaries & pursues the war with vigour—yet they must have a bad effect, in stirring up the malevolent passions. He is however a cheerful, agreeable person, abounding in anecdote. I have found the three very kind and hospitable and shall never lose an opportunity of repaying it. Feel tired and after going on deck, shall turn in. 146; Tuesday, April 9: N Lat: 21.25. W Long: 158.22. Up at 6. Packed plants, collected on Kala; They were quite fresh when taken out of vasculum — I hope will make good specimens. Some of those gathered earlier are spoiled. Engaged till dinner in changing papers of latter—since have been reading the introduction of Lindley on the Natural Orders. Cleaned & oiled gun. Made an account book in which entered disbursements at Oahu & noted state of acct. with H.B.C. Must be very economical in future. We have novo abundance of live stock on board—hogs, goats, turkies, ducks, fowls & a bullock. The canvas shade or screen extending on each side from beam to taffrail is hung with ti-leaves & poles placed across on davits support a goodly array of pumpkins &c. so that in the matter of vivers at any rate we shall be well off during the remainder of the passage. Have all day been steering within a few miles of northern coast of Oahu. I saw while light remained the towering summit of Kala which since our ascent, having often beheld from Mr. C's garden & different points at Honoruru is now familiar. Its summit is pretty extensive—thickly wooded plateau—extending NW & SE & sloping away gradually at each extremity. Resembles when seen at a distance the keel of a ship. Its form & height render it easily distinguishable from the sharp peaks which terminate the other mountains of the range. One peak however more to Sward seems almost to vie with it in loftiness. G. has given me the result of his calculations. He makes the base of Kala above sea level 312 feet, the summit, 3850. Have been rather melancholy & miss the ladies much from their quondam cabin now occupied by the Captain. Even in this parting with friends of a day there is much to occasion solemn reflection. They were the only persons on board with whom I could have communion of thoughts. G. for a long time has held himself reserved & the others are not fitted for intellectual conversation. The prospect of again enjoying the advantage of polished female society is now at an indefinite distance. I M7 ] To Fort Vancouver 1833 Wednesday, April 10: N Lat: 23.34. W Long: 158.58. Up at 7V2. Employed till dinner in examining and packing clothes washed at Honoruru, cleaning pistols &c. till 4. Since reading Good on visceral enlargements to conclusion of subject. Consulted by one of men affected with gonorrhea of two days standing. Gave him a gently aperient mixture of Sulph: Mag: potassae supertart & recommended the use of diluent drinks & enveloping the penis in cloths dip't in cold water. Am now going to look over Kirke White's Remains & shall soon turn in, feeling fagged. Thursday, April 11: N Lat: 24.30. W Long: 159. Up at 8. Engaged till 4 in changing plant papers. The specimens from Kala packed on Tuesday are in excellent order. In next changing shall begin to arrange them preparatory to copying their native names, uses &c. into journal. It would have been a better and less expensive plan for me to have made excursions of a day from Honoruru & applied the succeeding day to arranging collections, but on the other hand I would not have seen to such advantage the manners of the inhabitants nor the general aspect of island & I also understood that the Kala range of mountains had not been previously visited by a Botanist, therefore the only thing to be regretted is that the time for exploring them was so limited. In the plains although many beautiful plants were found yet after the second day little was left to be gleaned, there being a great sameness in their productions. In descending Kala many of the plants gathered were lost, owing to the difficulty of descent & the stupidity of attendant, who used to loiter behind & carelessly drop those he carried. Read lastnight Kirke White's life. His death was a heavy loss to mankind for it is likely that his writings in advanced life would have been on the subjects of morality and religion, the works of a ripened genius, which in its first efforts, displayed such transcendent merit could not fail to have had a beneficial influence on many, I admire his character ardently. I wish that in piety and perseverance I could resemble him—in talent, I can never hope to approach near him. Examined state of acct. with H.B.C. Find that salary is overdrawn £11.11— & it will be nearly the middle of June before I am out of debt, & even on arrival at Columbia, there will be some expenditure. Friday, April 12: N Lat: 25.6. W Long: 157.59. Up at 7. After breakfast read Bogatsky & St. Luke 12. Looked over Ellis to discover botanical names of some of the plants & read an account of the manufacture of tapas, which shall perhaps extract in a condensed form. Afterwards read part of the introduction of Lindley on the Nat: Ord: From after dinner till 4 Maltebrun on Senegambia & Guinea. Must get through this volume speedily, or lay it aside, so as to finish that on America which is to me more interesting, before disembarking. This evening have been reading in Good the physiological process on Respiration. Since leaving Oahu my reading has been of little profit, & have felt in a listless inactive mood, drowsy towards evg. & incapable of steady attention to any subject— Occasional squeamishness and headache—suppose it to be owing to the sudden change from a life of great activity such as I led at Oahu, to one requiring little bodily exertion & there have also been slight threatenings of seasickness. Cropped Nimrod's tail in forenoon—the hemorrhage was obstinate & resisting the application of turpentine, required the use of the Actual Cautery. Hope he will not suffer by its copiousness. Saturday, April 13: N Lat: 26.30. W Long: 156.18. Strong breeze from W during evening—ship going about 8 knots. Engaged till nearly 2 in changing plant papers—some of these grasses & ferns are sufficiently dry, but others yet require several shiftings. Maltebrun on Guinea Nigritia— read attentively the book on the inhabitants of these countries & made some notes respecting the Slave Trade. M. is a keen advocate for the abolition of slavery. Numerous petty despots divide these dominions amongst them & are seldom on amicable terms with each other. Indeed ways are incessantly undertaken for the express purpose of procuring slaves, which shows the incorrectness of the opinion that slaves are merely prisoners of war who would otherwise be slain. Every crime is punished by selling the offender & accusations of adultery or witchcraft are always at hand to insure a supply to the trader & should these means be inadequate, he has only to advance the natives brandy or gunpowder & then may legally seize on & carry off a whole village as a satisfaction of the debt. Dreadful havoc is committed by the native princes in procuring slaves. During their voyage to the West Indies, on an average 17 in 100 perish from disease contracted during the voyage. The traffic commenced as early as 1503 when a few slaves were conveyed to Spanish America. In 1571 it was greatly increased by Ferdinand Fifth of Spain but his prime minister Cardinal Jimenes opposed it & from his day down to the present its enemies have been increasing. The Quakers of Britain, who from the mutual intercourse exist- [ M9] Jk ing between them and their American brethren, became sooner acquainted with the miserable condition of the slaves than any other class of the community,—first in 1727 and afterwards more strongly in 1758, manifested their abhorrence of the trade in slaves. In June, 1783, they petitioned the House of Commons against the continuance of the traffic. The public efforts of Wilberforce, Pitt & Fox with the exertions of Clarkson & writings of Granville Sharpe, backed by the almost unanimous voice of the British Public, were after a struggle of nearly fifty years rewarded by the abolition of slavery in 1807. The U.S. abandoned the traffic in the same year & the glorious example was followed by Denmark in 1814, France in 1815, Netherlands 1817 & in that year Spain & Portugal offered to abstain from it on the receipt of a pecuniary compensation, but as I understand M. they were allowed to continue it for some time longer. All these powers, except France, agreed to a mutual right of searching suspicious looking vessels bearing their respective flags, but all these means were inadequate to its prevention & when M. wrote 1822, it was carried on to a considerable extent, some of the govts, even conniving at it. The French regulations on the subject are lax & ineffectual. Sunday, April 14: N Lat: 28.9. W Long: 153.47. Much disturbed during night by the heavy rolling of ship & the doleful creaking & groaning of timbers. Was incessantly tossed from side to side of bed, which with the continual din kept up by articles adrift in the tweendecks making their traverses completely banished Morpheus. Up at 8. After breakfast read Bogatsky & the 14 chapter of St.Luke & then a sermon in Paley on the Necessity of a Redeemer. Commenced his Natural Theology. Since tea time have been reading Kirke White's letters with which I am much pleased. They are the productions of an amiable & affectionate mind, tempered with piety—in one or two are some bright sallies of humour, but their general tenor is sedate & moralizing & the later ones, written after his commencing his clerical studies are fraught with devotional spirit & contain some valuable observations on religion, how different is my state of mind. I stand wavering on the brink of a precipice, daily addressing myself to the Almighty, but with a lukewarmness & apathy highly sinful. I know not how long the gate of repentance may be open, yet, with indolence & procrastination put off thinking seriously & perseveringly about my condition. Oh God, grant me perseverance to resist temptation & to be urgent in prayer with thee. I am sensible of my own weakness & utter incapacity to do anything without thy assistance which I beseech thee vouchsafe for the sake of my redeemer Christ Jesus. [150] Monday, April 15: N Lat: 29.2. W Long: 152.11. Up at 8. After breakfast visited patient, afterwards read S. Cooper on Gonorrhea. Patient has nightly attacks of chordee—have given him a lotion of the liq: plumbi subac: dilut: this will be useful in moderating inflammation & by its sedative influence may prevent recurrence of priapism, but should it fail I shall tomorrow night administer opium combined with camphor. Read M. on the Cape of Good Hope Colony. It produced about 150 varieties of wine from 11 varieties of the vine. Constantia wine is the most esteemed. The fruits & vegetables of Southern Europe as well as those of intertropical climes succeed. The British took possession in 1806 & since, the population has more than doubled & the state of society greatly improved. The frequency of crime is not great considering the motley nature of the population which consists of English, Dutch, Hottentots, Caffres, Bushmen & Malays. M. gives many interesting statistical details which would have copied, but being anxious to peruse the volume on America before arrival at Ft. Vancouver, returned the vol. on Africa & also the ist of Good to Gairdner & requested the next of each author. Am wishful to read Good on Fevers immediately as hereafter I may not have an opportunity. G. & I may be sent to different stations, & at any rate were it not that in lending me books at present, he is only fulfilling the agreement made in respect to thermom. I would not be under the obligation to him, in fact it would be out of the question as we are barely on speaking terms & the day of our separation will be hailed by me with joy. In the evening have been looking over various articles in Cooper's Surgical Dicty.—Splints, Fractures, Tourniquet & Trephine. Tuesday, April 16: N Lat: 29.49. W Long: 151.8. Up at 8. Devotional reading till 10; Changing plant papers till 12—the plants are now nearly dry. Began Maltebrun on America. He points out the difference in climate &c. between it & the old continent—it possesses species of the genera of animals common to both continents, peculiar to itself but smaller than their cisatlantic prototypes & he observes that in New Holland the same animals are still smaller & suggests the probability that when Madagascar is sufficiently explored, they will be found even more diminished in stature. He enters pretty fully into the inquiry respecting the origin of the American Indians but I have not reached conclusion of this dissertation. Commenced 2nd volume of Good on the Sanguineous function. Patient made sad complaints this morning of his sufferings during night & he experienced no relief from saturnine lotion. After dinner with some difficulty there being no solid opium made a prescription of Camphor & Tk. Opii into 6 pills, one to be taken at 6.8.10—2 at 12 on turning in & if these should not [151] prevent chordee, the remaining one between 12 & 4 during watch below. Informed the Captain of the man's disease & talking about it during tea. G. said that some marks on the man's leek which he noticed were certainly veneral blotches, at least he spoke to this effect. I went & examined these marks & found them to be three cicatrices of boils on right side of neck—two completely healed & one with a large dry scab but also nearly healed. Could not discern any other spots on face, neck, breast, nor forearms, on legs were some scars, one presenting a thin scab—a rather imperfect examination showed throat to be sound. The man says the marks on legs are the cicatrices of scorbutic ulcers long healed, that the one with a scab is the effect of a recent bruise. Has been annoyed with boils in neck for 7 months past. While on Mexican coast 4 mos. ago, was attacked with Intermittent Fever of 13 weeks duration, for which was twice salivated, shipped for Oahu a fortnight after recovery, & having lived there for some period was engaged by Mr. Charlton for the Ganymede. Denies having ever had syphilis in any form, but says this is the second attack of Gonorrhea. Examined glans penis & could detect no scar. Informed the Captain that in my opinion he was unaffected with syphilis, but as it might be erroneous proposed that G. Should see him tomorrow. It was an oversight on my part not observing these spots on his neck. I must be more minute in my inspections in future. Since tea have been reading S. Cooper on Syphilis, who says the history of the case & other appearances are more to be depended on in the diagnosis of Lues venerea, than the aspect of the eruption, but many cases are very perplexing. Wednesday, April 17: N Lat: 31.17. W Long: 148.50. Up at —8. After breakfast, had Patient Clark called into tween decks to be examined by G. but on being desired to strip, he refused, saying it was not necessary in the merchant service & so the affair terminated. Maltebrun on origin of Americans, shall refer remarks till tomorrow. Good on the Circulation of the blood. At 6 the mate reported to the C. who has been for some days confined to his cabin with rheumatism, that a heavy squall was approaching & orders were given to single reef topsails—this had been executed with regard to foretopsail & as they were getting on with the main one, while on the quarter deck watching the appearance of the weather I heard a plunge & immediately after the startling cry of "a man overboard"—on looking over bulwark saw a man whom I took for Burr stoutly buffeting the billows but dropping rapidly astern. There was now a confused running to & fro & a loud din of orders enforced by execrations. My first act was to assist Leonard in throwing the tween deck's hatch overboard. After some dreadful [152] delay the boat was lowered, manned by the Cook, Brookes & Clark Major looking out & pulled in the direction, pointed out to them by a man in the mizen top who still could see Heath, now about 3 or 400 yards astern, but he at length lost sight of him—orders were given to wear the ship round, & make for the boat & while they were engaged in this I saw the boat stop & Clark pulling the drowning man on board. Clark reports that until 2 before they reached him, they heard H. continually crying out to direct them but found him feebly striking out with his arms, speechless & very greatly exhausted. His first exclamation was (& it does credit to his heart): "My brave fellows, how can I repay you for this". In approaching the ship, the yawl was very nearly upset by striking against the chains. A bowling knot was fastened round H's waist & he was thus lifted on board. He had a wild vacant look & while being carried aft vomited a large quantity of fluid mixed with articles eaten at dinner—pulse feeble & rapid. Had him laid in after cabin & invested with dry flannels—about 7 pulse feeble, shivering with cold. Gave him Vz a glass of brandy & rubbed soles with Spt. Tereb: Placed on bedstead lately occupied by Captain who is now in one aft side cabins, there being more room than in his own berth. Pulse about 7V2, more distinct—96—seemed to be either stunned or verging to coma. Cut away hair from sinciput where he complained of pain & said he injured head against chains in falling. G. & I examined & found a spot near vertex where there seemed to be a slight depression & on pressing it slightly uneasiness was occasioned. I immediately shaved posterior portion of cranium & on examining now the depression appeared to be at sup: angle of occipital bone, where in many there naturally exists one. Resolved to defer for the present cutting down on it as G. had proposed as the first step & to open a vein immediately. Pulse 80 of good strength—complains less of pain of head (9 P.M.) There is a patch about 1 Vz in. in diameter over superior portion of occipital bone, tender & puffy. Abstracted about 18 oz. of blood, when pulse flagged & became almost imperceptible & nausea was complained of. Pulse when arm was tied up—48—irregular. In half an hour or less it rose to 76, being strong & regular. Before VS. feet were plunged in water as hot as bearable and sinapisms applied to soles afterwards. At 9V2 removed latter which were ineffectual & applied others to calves & bottles of hot water to soles. At ioVz administd. Calomel gr VC with P. Jalapa Vz Drm & applied evaporating lotion to occiput till uVz. P. continued at 48, but then it was 120—face somewhat flushed. Thirsty at 12. Passed urine copiously. Inclined to sleep. 18th—2 A.M. Heath since izVz has been in a placid slumber & now perspires copiously. T. moist P. 96. Have made up Tart: [ 153] Antim: Aq:—a tablespoonful hourly with a view to keep up perspiration & lower pulse still further. Am now going to turn in till 4. Thursday, April 18: N Lat: 32.41. W Long: 147.7. Visited H. at 4 A.M. Perspiration had ceased — P.84. Had slept since 2. Ordered Langley to give the antimonial solution hourly & report to me at 6— which was done. At 8—P. 72. Feels well, contused spot near vertex less tender & swollen. T. moist, rather brown at centre. Recommended him strongly to lie in bed till the afternoon at least, but as the Captain from illness was unfit to supply his place, he dressed & resumed his duty. The danger now to be dreaded is that of inflammation & supuration of Dura Mater lining contused spot—to guard against which, an antiphlogistic regimen must be pursued & appearance of scalp narrowly watched. After breakfast read S. Cooper on Injuries of head. He quotes largely from Pott's excellent work, who states that he has known inflammation of D.M. to supervene in several cases where the immediate effects of injury to scalp were very slight. He gives a clear & definite account of the symptoms, progress, treatment & morbid appearances in this form of disease. The Surgical Dictionary is a rich mine of knowledge —I would be often at a loss without it. Heath fell yesterday from futtock shrouds (the rope ladder by which you ascend from rigging to Maintop). His hat mitigated the force of his downward impulse against main channels, or in all probability the injury might have proved instantaneously fatal. Maltebrun on origin of Americans & on the N & NW. regions of continent. Speculators have exercised their imaginations in severally endeavouring to prove that America has been peopled from Asia & different parts of Europe, But their ingenuity has been employed to little purpose. M. seems to have investigated the subject with care & the following is a summary of his conclusions. Coincidences in the languages show that Asiatic tribes from different quarters & by different routes have migrated to America or have been carried thither by the current & trade winds as might have happened to the Malays or Madagascars. Analogies between religious and astronomical systems show that communications existed, but they have been anterior to the development of the creeds & mythologies actually prevailing amongst the Asiatic nations of the present day. The American languages, of which there is a great diversity, & some of them surprisingly perfect were formed at a very early period. They are perfectly distinct from any spoken in other parts of the world, so that as far back as the history reaches of any country we know that many nations of America had attained to a considerable degree of civilization. Good on the Circulation —he adopts implicitly Carson's theory but does not come to details. [154] Friday, April 19: N Lat: 34.16. W Long: 144.33. Up at 8—reading till 12 in S. Dicty. on Injuries of scalp—simple fracture and fracture with depressions. Cooper joins with those surgeons who assert that the scalp should never be incised except where symptoms of dangerous compression exist, for extracting a ball lodged under scalp & in certain cases for the removal of splinters in certain cases—the same rule applies to fractures with depression for Abernethy & others give cases of recovery without triphining where the depressed portion of bone occasioned no inconvenience. The only reason for operating is that in some instances of recovery from the immediate injury Mania & Epilepsy have been brought on by depressed fragment acting on brain when the circulation became accelerated, but then it is questionable whether we are to operate immediately, or wait till the mischief is produced or at least until first shock is recovered from. Bichat affirms that inflammation & suppuration of Dura Mater frequently succeeds to injuries of scalp without the accompaniment of a circumscribed puffy tumor of scalp, which is stated by Pott to be its invariable precursor & concomitant. Maltebrun on the NW. & NE. regions of America. His information regarding the Columbia is derived from Vancouver & Lewis & Clark's works. The geological description from New Cornwall down to California is that of an elevated plateau intersected by mountain ridges, ending on the E. in the Rocky Mts. & on the W. by steep mountains which closely border the Pacific. He states the exports of the H.B.C. to be £16,000 & their imports £30,000. They made a large grant to Lord Selkirk of territory adjoining Lake Winnipeg & Red River. His colonists after many disputes with the NW., a Canadian Fur Compy. coalesced with them, & being but a branch of the H.B.C, the three were united under this name. The Russians to the Nward are detested by the natives who wd. unite with any invader in attacking them & their settlements might be easily stormed. At dinner G. officiated as Carver & helped the M. before me contrary to the usual custom, this mark of disrespect must have been obvious to all present. Indeed, the C. exclaimed "Is not Mr. T. for any?". As G. has since leaving Oahu taken every opportunity to annoy me in trifles, thought it time to let him know my sentiments & wrote him, saying that in the hope of our soon separating I could have held his haughty airs of superiority unnoticed either by word or deed, but could not refrain from stating that I considered his conduct at dinner a public mark of disrespect & as an addition to his many incivilities. He replied, stating that since our tour at Oahu his conduct had been of the most distant character, wishing to know the circumstance alluded to—& saying that I [155] would fail, if my aim was to betray him into unguarded conduct by using irritating expressions in correspondence. Replied disclaiming this aim, informing him of the circumstance mentioned above & enquiring what excited his displeasure during the tour. Stated my surmise that it might have some connection with the injury sustained by his baromr. as we rode to Honoruru on the Friday. In his reply he waived this question (see his note). Saturday, April 20: N Lat: 35.42. W Long: 142.12. After breakfast consulted by one of men affected with symptoms of gastroenteric irritation with a dark colored liquid discharge from bowels. Gave ol: Ricini: 6 oz. Tk opii. gutxx which relieved pain & ordered him to bed. Have now 8 P.M. administered Pulv: Ipecac, C. ( ? ) oz. Our medicine Chest is miserably deficient in necessary remedies & it often exercises one's ingenuity to prescribe effectually. Engaged till dinner time in changing plant papers— the next I hope will terminate the tedious occupation. Maltebrun on Labrador, Greenland & Iceland—Labrador has not yet been explored by a botanist, but it is unlikely that he would find much to reward his toil. The Moravian Missionaries have done much to civilize the inhabitants, The Icelanders have made considerable progress in the arts of life & their clergy are generally men of learning. In years of famine, which are not rare, the loss of life, human & bestial, is great. Have commenced Good on Fevers, but this evg. since tea have been engaged in making up medicine. Our distance from Cape Disappointment today was 1050 & if all goes well we shall not be far distant from it this day week. Think of writing G. on Monday to know if he has ever spoken to the C. or M. about our disagreement on the incident of yesterday, as if he has, it will be incumbent on me to do the same. Shall also enquire the date when he first altered his demeanour towds. me, which he said at Oahu he could give. Sunday, April 21: N Lat: 37.8. W Long: 140.2. Up at 8 after reading the paper for the day in Botatsky & a chapter in St. Luke's gospel, continued Paley's Natural Theology. He sets out with referring to the works of a watch as implying contrivance & design, then refers to the Eye and Ear, the general conformation of plants & animals & their functions and offices as proofs of the existence of a Creator, & he refutes the atheistical opinions which attribute their formation to chance. Finished Isaiah & read some chapter in Proverbs. From 5 till 6 engaged in preparing medicine for Clark who has not yet got over the inflammatory stage of Gonorrhea but as he has today given up duty I hope in a couple of days to administer Copaiba to complete the cure. Am heartily tired of life at sea. The bad weather of late experienced, my disagreeable relations with G. & the profes- 156] sional annoyance of having to practise with very limited means conspire to make me wish for a change. Yet I cannot hope to be exempt from ills— they are the lot of humanity & these evils will be replaced by others. While visiting Clark sat in the forecastle for some time & noted its internal economy. Anteriorly it is occupied with a double row of hammocks, all in juxtaposition to the anterior row the cheering light of day never reaches. Along the sides the seamen's chests were ranged & in the centre of the apartment were scattered culinary utensils—pots, pannikins &c. The sea once or twice dashed in by hatch & to leeward, the floor was concealed by a large pool of water—just over the open water cask which rested against the central bulkhead, hung a dirty lamp fed with whale oil, thought the place had a very uncomfortable appearance & pitied those who are obliged to pass their hours in it. Just then the watch below came down from reefing topsails, dripping wet, grumbling & swearing at each other & because extra grog was not served out. However, they simultaneously got out their smoking apparatus & whiffing away their sorrows soon seemed happy & careless enough. Monday, April 22: N Lat: 37.46. W Long: 138.17. After breakfast continued Cooper on Fractures of Cranium (those with extravasation), Maltebrun on Canada, Nova Scotia & Newfoundland. About 20,000 Britons are employed in the Newf: codfisheries, nearly all Europe is supplied from this quarter. M. gives some interesting tables regarding the trade with these colonies but I am afraid shall not have time to make extracts. In 1792 the benefits of the British constitution were extended to the Canadas & the French residents being treated with leniency & having their religion respected, became much attached to their new rulers. The generality of Canadian oak is unfit for ship building, but one species has been found to answer. The Maple sugar is obtained in spring by incising the bark of the tree, the juice is reed, in hogsheads & being mixed with flour, the mass acquires a solid consistence & is powdered for use. It is only half the value of West India Sugar. Good on the various theories of Fever—Cullen's, Brown's, Darwin's, Clutterbuck's, & Marcus's. Broussais's had not then started into existence—the three first & all their predecessors Boerhaave, Stahl, Hoffman's &c. are all fine spun ingenious hypotheses, but equally destitute of a tangible foundation. The three latter are more matter of fact productions, but are instances of too hasty generalization. Obliged by the cold to don a flannel jacket & pair of cotton drawers. Tuesday, April 23: N. Lat: 38.30. W Long: 136.21. After breakfast inspected Clark. The copaiba administered yesterday has occasioned some irri- [157] tation along urethra. Finished article on Injuries of Head in Surgical Dictionary. The diagnosis between the effects of Extravasation & Concussion is often perplexing. If there has been an interval of sensibility we may suppose that extravasation is the cause of symptoms, according to Pott. There are many observations, which to impress more deeply on my mind shall reper- use tomorrow. Maltebrun on the United States. Copied into atlas an extract regarding their agricultural productions. Mines of iron & lead are worked in different parts. Copper is abundant & easily procurable in the Missouri, but their supply at present is derived from Mexico. Rich coal mines exist in different parts. Boston produces most authors, but in Philadelphia the greatest number of foreign works are reprinted & the most enlightened society is met with here. The philanthropic Rush established that form of prison which has become the pattern followed by the other States. Criminals are employed in the various occupations they have been instructed in & the produce of their labour goes to defray the prison expenses & if there is a surplus at the expiry of their bondage, it is made over to them. Solitary confinement in a narrow cell with an allowance of Vz lb. of bread daily is the punishment of veterans in vice & none but the most hardened can long resist it. Good on Febrile Miasm & the doctrine of critical days. He enters fully into the controversy regarding the nature of febrile miasm & endeavours to prove that the febrile principle is essentially the same whether arising from human, or marsh effluvia, & is modified by the state of the atmosphere into all the varieties of Fever. He gives examples of marsh miasm producing a low typhoid fever & human miasm a fever attended with remissions. Have been dreaming & thinking a good deal about my old fellow student & companion in botanizing—W. Lumsden. He has by this time I daresay given to the public an account of his N. American travels. This is the evening on which the College Med: Soc: if it is yet in being, meets. Few of my contemporaries will be present. The graduates will be looking forward triumphantly to the day of coronation & all, to the termination of the session. Wednesday, April 24: N Lat: 40.6. W Long: 134.21. After breakfast began the reperusal of the article on Injuries of the head, read on lacerated & punctured wounds & on contusions not affecting the Brain or its membranes—marked with marginal lines the most important passages. Maltebrun on the States composing the Union individually. New York stands foremost in commercial importance, Boston 2nd & Baltimore 3rd. A laudable attention is paid to education in the Northern States. In this & other respects they surpass their southern neighbours, whom the baneful influence of employing slaves deteriorates. Rice is chiefly cultivated in the Carolinas [158] and in Georgia. It is sown in March or April & ripens in August or Septr. & is subjected during its growth to three irrigations & at one period the land is covered with water for 20 days. The noxious exhalations thence arising impregnate the surrounding atmosphere with disease & death. About two bushels are allowed in sowing & from 600 to 1500 lbs. of rice are the return per acre. M. gives a long account of the American Government of which he is an ardent admirer. Washington, the seat of government & nominal capital, situated in Virginia, does not contain above 12,000 inhabitants & has greatly disappointed the Americans by its tardy increase. Virginia boasts of having given birth to four of the Presidents. List of plants collected at Oahu with the uses & native names of some. 1. Uheroa, medicinal, leaves ovate lanceolate serrated, hairy. Flowers, small, yellow verticillate, stem straight, not branching—height 2 to 3 ft. Abundant on plains. 2. Kukui. Candle nut tree. See Ellis. 3. Ahu oha. Stem used as cord in the construction of grass houses, leaves long & linear—flowers in dense terminal panicles—probable order Cyperaceae or Junceae. 4. Hou—bark made into rope, a low bushy tree, plentiful on mountains— leaves cordate acute, bright green, flowers, large, yellow. 5. a specimen of Gourd. 6. Cotton tree in flower & fruit. 7. Aka akai—stem made into mats. A tall straight stemmed monocotyled- nous plant, with a large terminal panicle 2 to 3 ft. high. 8. Akurikuri,—a low creeping plant having the general aspect of a Sedum, with fleshy stem & ovate fleshy leaves. To produce diaphoresis it is burned in a pit & the patient carefully covered, is exposed to the smoke arising from its combustion. 9. a low creeping herb common on Kala with a single amber colored berry of agreeable flavour. 10. a didynamous plant, from near the summmit of Kala. 11. Allied to Plantago, base of Kala & on plains. 12. a low shrub allied to vacciniae about middle of ascent. 13. Like Gnaphalium, middle of ascent. 14. Tree about 10 or 12 ft. high—bright glossy leaves & rich purple umbels of flowers, a great decoration to the groves on Kala. 15. Nau nau, common on plains—leaves hot & pungent—allied to shepherd's purse. 16. Myrtle from glen of Kala near base. [159] 17. Parasitic ferns from summit. 18. Tree on which parasites grew. 19. Lycopodium from Kala. 20. Erima—flowers made into garlands & necklaces. 21. Jute syngenesious—infusion of recent leaves drunk. 22. Manevaneba—gramineous, agreeable smell. 23. Ule, on plains & mountain thickets. 24. Tohe, Borders of taro patches, used as a bitter. 25. Talai. Marshy plain near Kuhuku—dried leaf valued for its bitter properties. 26. Taha. Used to scent tapas. 27. Molahi. 28. Hianohina medic. 29. Coco. 30. Hianohina medic. 31. Muirri. 32. Awiti witi—made into nets for large fish. 33. Kanannomanno. 34. Leaf &c. of Ricinus communis. 35. Wauki—Tapas are made from its bark. 36. Pohuhin—a creeping shrub which greatly adorns the plains. 37. Karamaro. 38. Honihoni root pounded used in frictions. 39. Mori—a handsome plant bordering taro patches. 40. Koari Convolvulus—purgative. 41. Tache convolvulus—seeds dried, violently emetic & cathartic. 42. Kariohi—root medicinal 43. Noui—root used in dressing native cloth. 44. Aveoveho—when young esculent. 45. Poneon, stem made into nets for small fish. 46. Taunnia—berry the size of a hazel nut, an ingredient in puddings— not indigenous. 47. Maniaueha—used in housebuilding. 48. Cocoo. abundant on dry plains. 49. Auhutin seeds used to poison or stupify fish. 50. Kooarripehu—seeds medicinal. 52. Pehu—good against headache, & bellyache. 53. Leaf of Ti—Dracaena terminalis, employed by natives for a variety of purposes. [160] 54- Kohi-Kohi—an Equiestum. 55. Honohono. Thursday, April 25: N Lat: 41.28. W Long: 132. Up at 8—have been occupied till 6 P.M. in making out the foregoing list of plants collected at Oahu, in packing more compactly the Scottish plants & in putting my recent acquisitions in the spare blotting paper. In turning over the old newspapers & papers of the day was frequently tempted to remit my labour & read & in perusing passages which I have formerly talked about, with those who are "nearest & dearest to me", felt sad at the thought that we have not been at Glasgow, have been idly calculating probabilities as to where my lot may be cast when we arrive at Fort Vancouver. It is a matter of small intrinsic importance—however, I should prefer remaining for some time at Ft. V. and that G. & I should be at different stations. Am now however becoming more accustomed to our present mode of life & on shore I think it would scarcely in any degree prove a source of annoyance where each will have his own duties to perform. Wherever I go, shall endeavour to be satisfied, "Content can soothe (cheer) where'er by fortune placed, can rear a garden in the desert waste." White. Hope my station & occupations may be such as shall be most conducive to my religious interest. Have finished White's prose works—some of the essays entitled "Melancholy Hours" contain sublime sentiments, creditable to human nature. Friday, April 26: N Lat: 42.15. W Long: 131.21. Engaged during forenoon in putting a handle on Chest A, or True Blue—shall appropriate it to botanical utensils &c, shoes & the likes— packing anatomical specimens—packed all my bottles & tender ware in hingham bucket got at Oahu. This bucket is a native production & proved of infinite service in circumambulating the island. It is about 18 inches deep—12 in diameter with a removable tightly fitting lid & a flat, semicircular handle attached to a peg at each side & capable of being moved up & down. It is very light & portable & the gift of Mr. Charlton. Finished Maltebrun on the U.S & compared him with Guthrie, the latter is as usual more minute in historical detail. Good on Intermittents. He gives a full history of Cinchona as a medicine & of the disputes which prevailed amongst practitioners in the last two centuries regarding its use—on this disease he says little of importance & nothing worth extracting. Began the second perusal of Mackintosh on the subject. Today are 367 miles from Cape Disappointment & if the wind holds shall be there on Monday. The Mate thinks it likely that G. & I may go up in a canoe from Ft. George—a journey of 30 hours. If I am retained at Ft. V. shall endeavour to acquire some knowledge of farming which will [161] _-J be of service if my scheme shd. ever be realized of marrying & turning farmer in Canada, or some other of our colonies in ten or twelve years hence if I am spared. Before leaving Glasgow, A. & I used at times to indulge in castle building & it was a pleasurable anticipation that Uncle J. & family, my father, A. & I should together cultivate some fertile vale in Canada. The scheme still seems to me feasible, but should we both live for ten years, 'tis probable our views may be greatly altered. Saturday, April Z7: N Lat: 43.41. W Long: 128.44. Busy during forenoon & evening in arranging chests. Have made A the depository of botanical paper &c, parcels of shoes, all hardware articles for native Indians, Oahu acquisitions of native cloth &c. & other articles of a similar description. Maltebrun on Mexico. He makes some interesting observations on the practicability of cutting a canal across the isthmus which I must reperuse. Since leaving Oahu have almost every day been visited by some of the large brown birds, these mentioned as occasionally seen—for several days the sea around us has been thickly strewed with different varities of Molluscae, the pellucid forms of some sparkling in the sunshine, others making some portion of the deep appear as if sprinkled with sawdust, so numerous were they. Our distance today is 258. Some specks in the N.E. horizon greatly resembled land but were rather clearly defined considering our distance from the nearest pt. Tonight are 7V2 mos. absent from Britain & it is probably the last time we shall together pledge the toast never yet omitted of "Friends at Home." Sunday, April 28: N Lat: 43.57. W Long: 127.8. Last night the customary toast was pledged & afterwards a conversation arose on the laxity of morals & the state of society at Oahu. I stated my surprise that ladies of a certain description who are generally half breeds were on visiting terms with the respectable female residents altho' as Ryan contended they are not so culpable as married females who "stray from virtue's path"—yet that argues nothing against the impropriety of their being contenanced by respectable persons, which as making vice appear less hateful must have an injurious effect at least on the rising generation. After breakfast visited Clark & as for two days the ardor urine has been more severe with pain & swelling of epididymis of right testicle—thought it necessary to bleed & informed him of my intention at which he grumbled & coming aft to tween decks soon after by my orders. While on the quarter deck he told the C. in my presence that he was getting worse & that my treatment was ineffectual. I said if he did not like it, he might treat himself & after pondering for some time he undertook to cure himself with [162] turpentine with which Mr. H. then supplied him. Had he continued in my hands should have opened one or two of the scrotal veins to relieve the inflammation of Epididymis. He was so much better on Friday as to propose resuming his duty on Saturday but by my advice remained below today. He denied his having been better, which provoked me a little, and made me in some measure pleased to get rid of him. Reading Paley till 6 P.M. In drawing evidences of the existence of a Creator from the structure & mechanism of the Joints, Bones & Muscles in Man, he placed many facts familiar to me in a new & striking light & shows them to be wonderful instances of design & contrivance, compared to which the most perfect productions of human ingenuity are mere bungling imitations. On the various & distinct functions performed by mouth he descants very justly. And how much regarding the human frame we are yet in ignorance of, secretion, absorption, Nervous Influence &c. which in the course of ages the Almighty may permit other Harveys to discover & promulgate the nature of —truly "we are fearfully and wonderfully made". Read two chapters in Jeremiah & several in Proverbs and Psalms and am now to take up K.W's poems the perusal of which affords me great delight. Monday, April 29: N Lat: 44.41. W Long: 126.8. Are likely to see land early in the morning as we are proceeding at the rate of six knots. Up at 7—arranging chests, covering books &c. till 12. Maltebrun on Mexico. I regret now my not having procured in London a Spanish grammar & dictionary—a knowledge of that language in this part of the world might be of great service to me. German would be of no use, it was ill judged getting German books in preference to Spanish for I have not a strong enough stimulus to grapple unaided, with the former very difficult grammar. Good on Remittent Fever, on this subject he is instructive. He endeavours to prove that the disease in all countries, is in reality, the same but modified by particular contingencies, and that it is propagated both by the effluvia of marshes & that of the human body, or by contagion. He then attempts to reconcile Musgrave's account of the disease at Antigua, stated to be merely epidemic with that of Pym who witnessed the malady on the coast of Africa where they call it Bulain Fever pronounces it to arise solely from contagion. Rush says it was produced indiscriminately from both sources at Philadelphia, but the epidemy took effect at the distance of 3 or 400 yards—the contagion across streets & most powerfully in narrow alleys. Think Good's supposition correct. Must compare him with M.K. Tuesday, April 30: Off Cape Disappointment. Up at 8 & going on deck was informed that land had been visible for two hours, but frequently 163 ^J obscured by the haze—in a few minutes after, the summits of the hills appeared, dimly seen—distance about 40 miles at 9— it becoming clearer, the land was distinctly seen on either side presenting a series of low undulating hills alternating with flats & the whole supported a luxuriant growth of tall trees. It seemed as if we were entering a firth or estuary. Large flocks of wild duck, closely agminated flying overhead & smaller ones skimming the surface of the foaming billows. A prodigious number of other birds, almost darkening the air ahead, actively engaged in the pursuit of prey—large masses of seaweed abundantly scattered about, perhaps affording them a supply of crustaceous & molluscous animals. Our position being uncertain lay to & dropped the deep sea lead which reached a sandy bottom at 25 fathoms. The Mate than declared his opinion that we were to NWard of the Cape & the Captain acquiescing wore the ship & steered S.W. at 10. Went below at 10 & occupied till izVz in repairing oil cloth Cap & green coat now in use. Came on deck at 1. Cape Disappointment had just been recognized a quarter of an hour before, bearing N by E the C. tacked & steered for it —having been mistaken in the supposition that we were to the NWard of it. Examined the chart executed by the late Captain Simpson of the entrance to the Columbia River & at iVz went up to the foretopsail yard, where the Mate pointed out the different localities. Land was perceptible from N. to S.E. & Cape Disappointment, for which we steered, bore NE about 12 miles distant. It is a bluff wooded promontory & the contiguous land of same character, (that of a rolling country) stretches away to N or N by W beyond which the sea again appears, & the coast receding to form Baker's Bay to the eastward of the Cape. The land from N to NNE has an insulated appearance, which is heightened by your perceiving a higher range of hills immediately behind the Cape, continuous with those extending towards S.E.—Chenooke Point bearing about NE. by E. was distinguished by a triangular yellow patch on an adjoining hill which the gloomy aspect of the surrounding forest made conspicuous. Here the line of coast was again broken & Pt. Adams was seen bearing about E.—low flat & clad with trees, becoming gradually elevated until it terminated in a line of wooded hills which the eye could follow as far as the S.E. point The summits of the hills did not jut out into sharp conical peaks as at Oahu, but were smooth & rounded. From the topsail yard could see the N & S. breakers rising impetuously over the bar & when we were within about 3 miles of it could perceive them from the deck at 2. The C. thought it prudent to stand out to sea & it was fortunate; as the atmosphere soon after became more dense & the breeze stronger & the perilous run would have been made 164] under very unfavorable circumstances. Have since 2 been steering S.W. under foresail & double reefed topsails. In entering, the chief danger consists in passing between the Cape & the South spit, a narrow point which runs off from the Middle Grounds which name is applied to that part of the bar above water. The channel is narrow & the depth of water only 4 fathoms—in passing between the Middle Ground & Chenooke Point you are between Scylla & Charybdis, having on the left Chenooke shoal & on the right the north spit to alarm you. Wednesday, May 1: Fort George 6 P.M. Up at 7 & going on deck found that the Ganymede was making for the Cape with a favorable breeze from S. or S.E. The morning was beautiful & ahead could be seen the north breakers sparkling in the sunshine & overspread with a thin vapor. We were about the same distance from the Cape as when we stood out yesterday & distinctly viewed the hills interior, on which the lazy mists of night were still lagging, especially in the clefts or ravines. The C. once or twice hesitated from the furious breaking of the sea over the bar, but smooth surface presented by the channel at other times reinspired him with courage & we stood in & passed within 150 yards of the Cape at 8V2 & at 9 were sailing across Baker's Bay in safety—in entering, could see land to a considerable distance northward of the Cape Peninsula. It was flat & wooded. The Cape is a steep precipitous crag about 200 feet high—its sides grassy & shrubby & summit crested with pines. The Coast for nearly a mile to the N. is of a similar description—hills pineclad on summits, with their sides bulging out into grassy knolls or mounds & intersected with small ravines which were adorned with richer verdure. In Baker's Bay the water was smooth as glass bordered by a sandy beach & all around strewed with driftwood on its margin—the rising grounds covered with pine—this spot appeared to me singularly beautiful & from it I could view the dangerous breakers we had just passed with great complacency & thankfulness to Providence. At 9 went below & after breakfasting reed, a note from G. requesting the return of his books & thanking me for the use of the thermometer which he returned. At 10 boarded by a party of Chenooks, off Point Ellice, one of whom named George offered himself as pilot. They were treated with biscuit & molasses & a glass of rum at 11. Mr. Fisk the person in charge of Ft. George arrived, bringing the intelligence that Mr. Finlayson had set out in the Lama on the 12th Ult. to form a new settlement in the Russian territory to NWard of Nass C.—Dr. McLaughlin was at Ft. V. with but very few assistants—that Mr. Douglas had accompanied the hunting party to New Caledonia & is expected to return with them in June. Ft. [165] George seen from off Pt. Ellice where the Ganymede lay at anchor did not much resemble its namesake in Scotland, a few cottages perched on a green knoll close to beach with a small triangular space behind cleared—except the stumps—& all around it a trackless forest. Returned G's books with thanks verbally. Busy until dinner time packing—after dinner being furnished with biscuit, cheese & a bottle of brandy from the ship set out in Fisk's canoe for Ft. George distant about 6 miles—rather rough passage —got wetted—arrived at the fort about 5, and occupied in drying clothes, cleaning gun & writing journal till 7. The fort is built on a rising ground at the head of a small creek or bay—along the margin of which there are about Vz a dozen miserable looking wooden huts inhabited by Indians— about a gunshot from this are about the same number of comfortable looking cottages which constitute Ft. George. Along the eminence goats were frisking about, browsing on rich but short clover grass. This steep space was laid out in cultivable lands—this is the original site of fort. Were shown a seaotter & beaver's skin by Fisk. There is no arable land, but they have got a stock of goats & poultry. There are four Coy's servts., a Canadian, Risk, an Orkneyman & two Kanakas. At 7 our canoe was ready & we embarked. It was manned by five Indians, a Kanaka & the Orkneyman, above mentioned, John More from Stromness as interpreter & guide or commander of the crew. Received on board some pickled salmon & potatoes & started. In a quarter of an hour rain commenced & continued incessant for nearly an hour. Wrapped in tartan cloak lay snugly on a mat in bottom of canoe. Thursday, May 2nd: 12 P.M. Slept soundly & startled out of a pleasant dream at 4V2 this morning by John's shouting to rouse the Indians. Mg. fine, on the densely wooded banks of opposite side the mists are still hanging in graceful wreaths & in heavy strata in the mountain which lies in the background. 8V2 saw several seals in first setting out—their black heads bobbing up & down resembled small buoys. A heavy shower lasting for an hour came on at 6 but my tartan cloak was armour of proof & I thanked my stars that I had got a cloak instead of a heavy great coat, for G. was put to many shifts to keep himself comfortable with a great coat cloak & gay plaid. The ample dimensions of my cloak enveloped me completely & there being a layer of oilcloth between the tartan & the inside lining, it was quite impervious to rain. The scenery along the banks has been of a monotonous character—a dense & unbroken forest of pines covers them and the surrounding hills—the only interruption to this is where low sandy points project, these clothed with stunted willows & bushes, afford by their verdure [166] a pleasant relief to the eye tired with the sombre gloominess of the wilderness in the background. Where we slept viz. Tongue Point 6 miles above Ft. George, the river was perhaps 5 miles broad, now it is nearly 3. Saw several low shoals or sandbanks—few of them above high water mark & in passing between them grounded once or twice. Large flocks of geese & ducks numerous, but never within shot. At an eagle perched on a decayed stump 30 yards off, G. fired & missed—the bird of Jove sprung up fluttering as if shaking himself and soared away majestically soon after. Four were seen at once, hovering over the lofty pines. 10 A.M. arrived at Kuhelamit village where it was proposed to breakfast. Four huts in a line & two others detached placed at the base of a pineclad ridge constituted the hamlet. Some indians were hewing wood, others at work in canoes, but the greatest number squatted in front of dwellings. They had six fine salmon in a canoe, but superstitiously refused to sell any, because they were the first caught this season and it is their firm belief that if the first caught salmon are not roasted in a particular manner, the fish will desert the river. Tantalizing as it was, had to proceed without any & since 9V2 have held our course between some beautiful islets where the channel at times is less than 20 yards in width & obstructed by enormous trunks which in some cases nearly form a natural bridge & shoot up stout saplings along their whole length with great regularity. Passed a canoe fastened to the trunk of a tree in the bank about 5 yards from margin, containing the ashes of a Chenooke. The indians call these sepulchres Nimilush elihe "the Place of the Dead". Breakfasted at a snug little cove on right bank & got under way about 12. Wrote part of yesterday's journal & afterwards chatted with John about Ft. V. 5 P.M. Have since been running before a steady breeze from N.W., having a sort of trysail set in fore part of canoe—Banks becoming more elevated, still invested with dark pines—that on right however low & flat for some distance up & enlivened by a bright green foliage of willows & aspens. It terminates about two miles ahead in a wooded knoll termed Oak Point, which closes the prospect of river & makes it appear very narrow. 6V2—having coasted along are now at Oak Point village consisting of 3 groups of huts, three in each. Procured from Yughez the Chief ( droll looking character with a square pit in the extremity of his nose capable of containing a small pea & his front of upper jaw rasped down to stumps) a leg of venison in exchange for a small quantity of powder & shot. Channel of stream narrow less than lA mile. Left bank, steep & craggy. Began to read Cowper's Table Talk. Metrical errors occur in almost every line, but the ideas are fine & nervously expressed. $Vz P.M. have [167] been paddling along in the merry moon light & since it became too dark for reading have been rousing the echoes with Auld Lang Syne &c. & indulging in corresponding train of ideas "on the land of brown heath & shaggy wood, Land of the mountain & the flood". Evening surpassingly beautiful — the blue concave is cloudless & lit up with starry hosts. Venus has just sunk behind the western bank. Ursa Major is nearly on the meridian & the "pale empress of the night" is riding in full orbed majesty about a demi quadrant above horizon & sheds her mellow beams on the mighty stream here shut in by its banks so as to appear like a broad unruffled lake. 10^. Now encamping on a small wooded islet—a blazing wood disseminates light all around & the pots are boiling furiously. The Indians have just upset theirs & are philosophically laughing at their mishap & the wolves on opposite bank are howling in concert. Friday, May 3: Supped heartily last night on boiled venison—poor stuff. Wrote journal while fire emitted light sufficient & turned in at iVz ie into tartan cloak, as it did not threaten rain, had no canopy of mats formed—slept soundly till 5. Performed ablutions & started in half an hour. A dense fog slept on the river, but the blue sky overhead gave promise of a fine day & the sun appearing over opposite bank was slowly dispelling the mist. 8V2. Have been coasting left bank and now arrived at Tawallish, a small lodge near to which Kiesno the highest chief on river & his party are encamped. The men are mostly clothed with blue capots or greatcoats with a hood, armed with knives & their well polished muskets are ranged round a tree in military regularity—in front of hamlet, men, squaws & children are squatted. Kiesno intends proceeding to the fort today— the mouth of Twallish river broad & open. Appears a little above huts— canoes going to Fraser's River ascend it. $Vz. Have caught a snake 3.6 in. long, $Vz in greatest circum:—snout to extr: of ventral scutae 39 in— ventral single 160 in number. A light green streak extends from occiput along spine to extremity of tail—Dorsal scales black—a series of light brown scales extend in vertical rows between middle line & ventral scutae on each side from crown to end of ventral scutae—color of ventral scutae blackish green—9 horizontal scales on cranium, 7 lateral plates from orbit to orbit on both sides—4 rows of simple teeth in upper jaw—10^. Have come along right bank rugged & jutting out into bluffs adorned with saxafrages & sedums in flower. Overtaken <k passed by two canoes from Tawal- litch the foreheads of all the inmates are flattened & their faces bedaubed with a pigment of light brownish color. On a high bluff & also on a small rocky islet the habitations of the dead are very numerous. The Chenooks seem to choose places the most difficult of access to deposit the remains of their defunct friends. The islet is called Coffin Island. nVz. Have stopped in a pretty little creek to breakfast. Tmpr. of air—58. Kiesno has arrived in his canoe & received from us a small donation of Cheshire cheese. izVz. Have breakfasted on the remainder of venison & picked the bones clean. All our stores except the salmon & a few potatoes are expended. Again afloat & men paddling with renewed vigour. For several miles the edge of river is bordered with willow, aspens, birch &c. The scenery assumes a softer character. Some very picturesque little bays & creeks reach the acme of sylvan beauty, but the wild & savage pine exclusively occupies the ground becoming elevated. 3 P.M. Have been coasting along Deer Island since iVz & its termination is fully Vz mile ahead. Slender elegant looking trees ornament its surface which is gently elevated 20 or 30 feet above water. There are two parties of Indians encamped there, fishing sturgeon. Saw one moored to a canoe, at least 15 feet long. They had a long line set in the river, floated by logs of wood at each end of line—they would not sell any sturgeon. 4 P.M. Cloudy, rainy appearance, fired twice at an eagle, but missed. Have just come in sight of a lofty mountain—Mt. Hood, covered with eternal snow—it bears E by S and our course is about S. There is an extensive plain on eastern shore on which patches of oak are met with. 5V2. Have been paddling for an hour & read Cowper's Progress of Error. With the arrows of polished but cutting satire he attacks the modish follies of the day & rises to higher themes towards conclusions. Addressing Lord Chesterfield or rather his shade under the name of Petronius he condemns his epistles with just severity. Now at the mouth of a river which flows into Columbia in a S.W. by S. direction. The chief Kiesno lives on its banks, and I now see his canoe a good way up paddling homewards. Mackay, a clerk, retired from Coy's service has settled 6 miles up R. — nearly lA mile broad at mouth. Hills on left bank becoming higher & in the distance eastward, a sugar loaf mt. seen last night to great advantage, now rises in immaculate whiteness and buries its pointed summit in the clouds. Several flocks of geese seen flying to N. A thin stratum of grey cloud veils the heavens. The water is smooth as a mirror & with equal fidelity reflects the leafy banks. 7V4. Now steering SE. & for upwards of an hour been assisted by a gentle breeze. The eminency of background nearly excluded from view on right side by two parallel rows of dense bushy trees, which extend along for a considerable distance—posterior row much taller than anterior. Shades of evening are now closing o'er us. 9 P.M. Have distributed brandy amongst the Indians & [169] are now going to court "Nature's sweet restorer" in the bottom of canoe. Saturday, May 4: Ft. Vancouver. Slept tolerably till 3, when reached our destined port after nearly an eight months pilgrimage. Knocked at the gate which after some delay was opened by a gardener, whom I at once discovered to be a Celt. Our approach being announced to Govr. McLoughlin, he appeared in shirt & trowsers on the stair case of Common Hall & welcomed us with a cordial shake of the hand. Sat down in dining hall & while refreshments were being prepared communicated the political intelligence of Europe to Mr. Mc L. who is an able politician. Messrs Cowie & Allan, gentlemen stationed at the Fort & Capt. Duncan, commanding the schooner Vancouver now appeared, & a lively conversation was kept up till about 6, when we betook ourselves to eating with right good will, having fasted since yesterday at 11. Our fare was excellent, consisting of superb salmon, fresh butter & bread, tea & rich milk & mealy potatoes. Having done ample justice to the good things, chatted with the Doctor as he is called till about 7 & then visited garden. Young apples are in rich blossom & extensive beds sowed with culinary vegetables are laid out in nice order & under a long range of frames, melons are sown. Afterwards visited patients, which are pretty numerous & have been divided between us. Sat down to breakfast at 8, I ate a little broiled salmon. After breakfast engaged in putting Apothecaries Hall in some degree of order. Visited & prescribed for my patients & thus occupied till 12—when dinner was announced. After dinner wrote journal till nearly 4, when visited a woman with subacute pleuritis. In the evening putting Apoth: Hall which is to be our temporary domicile to rights & am now (10^) going to turn in. From what I have seen of Govr. like him and think my first prepossessions will be confirmed by a longer acquaintance. Sunday, May 5: Up at 6V2—having slept soundly. Having conversed frankly with G. last night proposed to him that we should reside permanently together in the present domicile—as we should not then in all likelihood, have intruders, when arrivals of brigades occur. G. stated his wish that we should be separated, & from that we talked on our former differences & finally became reconciled, which I am glad of as it will add materially to our mutual comfort & happiness. Skinned snake caught on Friday & read Bogatsky before breakfast. Afterwards visited patients & attended Episcopalian morning service read by the Govr. in dining hall. The square was now occupied with upwards of 100 horses & Canadians were busy lassoing some for use. At 12 got all mounted & Govr., Cowie, G. & self besides a large cavalcade of Canadians & boys, set out for [170] Vancouver Plain along a road leading through pine wood, the navigation of which was difficult. After half an hour's dangerous scrambling through bush & brake & numerous stumps, entered plain, which extends for about 15 miles down river & is generally a mile in breadth. Its surface is diversified with clumps of trees & lakes of water & profusely bedecked with beautiful flowers, amongst which noticed particularly a large species of lupin, a blue orchideous looking plant called Kamas & the root of which is baked underground & eaten by the Indians. A great variety of others seen— did not attract so much attention. Rich & luxuriant grass afforded an abundant pasturage to 3 or 400 cattle which in different herds were met with as we cantered along. At 1 P.M. reached a lake 3 or 4 miles in circumference bordered by trees in full foliage. On its shores flocks of wild duck feeding & swallows in thousands skimming its surface. Passed several smaller lochs in returning & met cavalcade of Canadians scampering along & thence followed by. The scene was now very animating—there were the Canadians mostly dressed in blue capots, glazed hats with a red military belt & having their coal black hair dangling in profusion about their shoulders—wild picturesque looking figures & their horses rougher & more shaggy than themselves. All around were herds of beautiful cattle cropping the rich herbage, or listlessly lolling under trees—horses, goats & swine seen in every direction attending to the cravings of Nature—on the lochs wild duck abundant & now & then the solitary heron could be seen, standing motionless in shallow water, watching the motions of the devoted minnows—wood pigeons startled from a clump of trees in one large covey. In traversing pine wood the Govr. pointed out to me a tall slender tree having a profusion of large syngenesious flowers called here Devil's Wood. Having being informed that the root was employed in the US. for the care of the Inter - mittents, Mr. Mc L. used it here last season in doses of 3:7idrm of dried root in powder & succeeded in subduing diseases without cinchona &c. Sugar maple also grows in this wood. Got home & dined about zVz. Afterwards looked over Introduction to ist no. of Canton Miscellany begun in 1831. It is well written on the whole, tho' diffuse & prosing. Rode out with Govr. & Cowie to see the farm which extends along bank of R to E. of fort—there several large fields of wheat & pease & one of barley—with rich & extensive natural meadows. Heard a loud howling & approaching a party of from 30 to 40 Indians, men, women & children performing their devotions. They formed a circle two deep & went round & round, moving their hands, as is done in sculling, exerting themselves violently & simultaneously repeating a monotonous chaunt loudly. Two men were 171] within the circle & kept moving rapidly from side to side making the same motion of arms, & were I am told the directors or managers of the ceremony. Having continued this exercise for several minutes after we beheld them becoming more & more vehement & excited, they suddenly dropped on their knees & uttered a short prayer & having rested a short time resumed the circular motion. During the ceremony so intent were they that not an eye was once turned towards us, although we stood within a few yards. In an encampment close by, several persons were squatted round the fires—the dwellings, formed of poles covered with skins, looked very wretched. Felt a sensation of awe come over me when they knelt & prayed. The Govr. says that they have imitated the Europeans in observing the 7. as a day of rest. In the evg. visited the schooner Vancouver just rebuilt & now almost ready for sea. After tea chatted with Govr. & G. on Reform bill, Comlaws &c. Have agreed with G. to have alternate week of taking patients under charge & he to commence tomorrow. Are tomorrow, if we are spared, to label & arrange medicines. Monday, May 6: Reed, intimation this morning at 4 of Plant's death. Mr. McL. did not think it advisable when spoken at breakfast, that body should be inspected, as from the force of Canadian prejudices, such a thing had never been done. Must endeavour to overcome these prejudices, when I became better acquainted with their nature & extent. Up at Wm & after breakfast commenced examination of medicines & continued at work till 6Vz. It will be a week perhaps before we get comfortably settled. Our apartment is 13 paces long by 7 broad & extends in E & W direction, the roof about 20 feet from floor, supported by two rafters & two transverse beams. In front is the door & a pretty large window—posteriorly a window & back door—one on each side & in the middle a large fireplace without any grate, built of stone & lime. The walls are formed of rough strong horizontal deals, attached at their extremities to perpendicular ones. Against the northern wall are placed our bedsteads, between them a large chest & in front, a small medicine shelf. Strong shelves of unplaned deal occupy two posterior thirds of S. wall & contain the greater part of the medicines. Anterially there is a small & neater, painted shelf on which have today placed small quantities of the medicines most frequently in use. The deals composing floor are in some places two or three inches distant from each other, thus leaving wide apertures. This is also true of the deals in the walls & the chinks are numerous, by those to north can look into schoolroom. The house to S. is unoccupied at present. Shall close all apertures with brown paper pasted or leather. The partition is to extend from the foot of [172] my bed to extremity of large shelves on left—the apartment in front to be the Surgery, the posterior our bedroom & I expect we shall have it very snug. Our attendant is a Sandwich Island boy named Namahama. He is slow in his motions as a sloth but quiet & docile & will improve. Keep up a blazing pine firef usually our only fire iron is a pole about 5 feet long with 6 inches of iron rod fitted to its extremity & is a good apology for a poker. Filled some 8 oz. corked phials with the few tinctures on hand & arranged them in front shelf. There is a very excellent supply of surgical instruments—an Amputating, two trephining, two eye instruments, a lithotomy & a cupping case, besides two midwifery forceps & a multitude of catheters, flexible & silver sounds bougies, probangs, tooth forceps &c. not yet put in order. At 6Vz attended Plant's funeral—the procession made up by McL., Cowie & self & about 25 servants, Europeans, islanders & Canadians, set out from Plant's house. The coffin unpainted, slung on pieces of canvas & thus borne by four men, passing through a pretty grove of young oaks & other trees, we arrived at burial ground which is situated about a gunshot to N. of fort, in a fertile upland meadow greatly beautified by wild flowers & trees in flower. The funeral service read by the Govr. The great want here is the ground is not being inclosed, some of the graves are surrounded with palisades but the greater number are merely covered with stones & logs of wood. The behaviour of the servants was decorous & befitting the solemn occasion. The character of the deceased was not such as to make his death a matter of vivid regret to his fellows. He had been a noted bruiser, distinguished for a quarrelsome disposition, but having the redeeming quality of unflinching courage & hence being a valuable attendant in moments of danger. In the evening had some conversation with the Govr. on farming. Wheat here yields a return of 15 fold, barley from 40 to 50, maize requires the richest soil, barley next, then wheat & lastly oats or pease. Tuesday, May 7: Sat chatting with Mr. Cowie last night in his apartments adjoining the office till nearly 11. Afterwards wrote log & conversed with G. till past 12. Today has been improlific in events of interest, by our labors have brought apartment some what nearer to a state of order & tidiness but there is still much to be done. Borrowed from Govr. ist & 2nd vol: of Humboldt's Personal Narrative of travels in S. America. Sowed dahlia seeds in garden under a frame, visited store. It seems in a state of confusion—blankets are the most abundant while guns, strouds, trinkets &c assist in forming the miscellaneous list. Looked out cloth for two calico jackets & a tartan vest. Now gVz going to begin Humboldt. Wednesday, May 8: Up at 6. Began Cowper's Poem on Truth, but [173] soon laid it aside & accompanied G. along river's bank for a short distance upwards, there is a nice pebbly beach, well suited for bathing & edged with verdant trees & brushwood & elegant wild flowers of various species. Armed with guns & fired once but result in my case doubtful. After breakfast resumed labors in dispensatory & busy till 5 P.M. Sent calico & tartan to the Drs. rooms who has kindly offered to get them made up by his family. At 6 G & I set out to walk along farm with guns & I having vasculum, on passing farm steading which is extensive & placed about 300 yards behind & above fort, struck up towards the wood & then walked along an upland plateau which reaches for about two miles to eastward from near fort to where the dense forest obstructs the view—its breadth is about Va mile & it presents a rounded bluff face to NWard, beautified with elegant Columbines, luxuriant lupins & other plants equally attractive but unknown. From this part to bank of river is a level plain generally 3A mile broad & divided by fences into large wheat & barley or pease fields or broad meadows. Two ponds abounding in ducks diversify the scene somewhat but add little to its beauty, their banks being of dry & sandy nature. Well, G. & I walked along the plateau by the border of wood, now admiring the rich groves of lupin seen amidst the trees mixing with handsome columbines, sunflowers & a great variety of other herbaceous plants in flower. On the border of the wood there were some enchanting spots & my heart bounded with delight & enthusiasm as I surveyed them. Thin grey clouds mellowed without much obscuring the rays of the departing sun & this lent an air of softness to the face of Nature & there being scarcely any wind, the glimpses of the magnificent Columbia obtained through interruptions to the belt of wood which skirts its Northern shore showed it to flow placidly & majestically along its southern shore—green trees extended in a narrow strip along lowlands but behind, a range of undulating hills perhaps 500 feet high stretched E & W & in the background the colossal Mount Hood, today much freed of his gelid investment, reared his lofty summit above the clouds. The tout ensemble was the finest combination of beauty & grandeur I have ever beheld. About 63A reached extremity of plateau & just going to face about, when I saw a bushy animal with a large cocked tail, striped white & brown & about the size of a large cat about 100 yards ahead. He perceived us & made off, but seeing him tardy in his movements gave chase & soon gained on him & admired his beauty as he ran with cocked tail spread out like a fan, or tail of a turkey cock, he stopped under the shade of a huge pine, grinned & stood at bay, but I let fly & soon settled his hash. Immediately thereafter a most diabolical 174 . smell declared him a pole cat. Malgre the stink, carried him by the brush to the vicinity of the fort, where concealed him for examination tomorrow. Arrived just in time for tea & met a Mr. McDonald who has returned from an exploring expedition to the Willamit River & gives a very interesting account of the country—fertile & extensive plains abounding in excellent oak there invite the husbandman—traces of coal exist & he has now brought a specimen of limestone rock. In one part salt springs are numerous & are much frequented by the deer, more salmon caught than in other parts in this neighbourhood & there our supply is derived. Have given G. the polecat as I shall not have time to examine & preserve its skin. Collected a specimen of the Devil's tree used as a petrifuge in U.S. & tried here in a few inst. Thursday, May 9: Up at 6. Examined plant procured last night—it is I think the Cornus florida, which in the U.S. is sometimes substituted for Cinchona in the dose of 1 oz. or 2 oz. powdered bark its composition is Cinchonine Quinine & Gum. After breakfast visited patients who are all in an improving way & was on my return, informed by Mr. McL. that I am to be dispatched to NWard in the Vancouver, which is to set out on a trading voyage along the Coast in a few days. I shall be probably left with Mr. Finlayson at the new fort on Millbank Sound which is to supplant Fort Simpson. The situation of settlement is pointed out as being on an island which forms the south bank of north branch of Salmon River at the entrance to Sound—about lat. 51.30 N long: 127 W. The projected establishment to N. is in lat: 57. long: 132. The site pointed out is on a narrow channel in the Sitca archipelago, or rather the Prince of Wale's which runs between Duke of York's land & some other nameless islands to N. about 1 Vz miles broad & the spot proposed is on its eastern or mainland shore. It will not interfere with the Russians & they have no posts to S. of Norfolk Sound. I would have preferred remaining long here but il n'importe as we are to coast a great part of way & touch at several stations in Puget's Sound & the Gulf of Georgia—the voyage I anticipate will be agreeable. In the north, must be constantly armed to the teeth as the Indians are dangerous. Busy during day in acquiring information regarding medicines necessary to be taken &c. In the evening walked out with G. along Vancouver plain. It is a continuation of that to eastward of fort described yesterday, below fort for some way it is covered with gigantic relics of the primeval forest, which form a broad belt of wood extending to river's edge. Proceeded along a rough road passing through the wood. The magnificence & grandeur of its colossal tenants was very impressive & the ground was beautifully carpeted with wild flowers [175] & low creeping evergreen shrubs. Many of the pines were strip't of their bark for a few feet above root & the turpentine was profusely exuded in large pellucid drops. Travelled along the grassy level plain for nearly a mile & then plunged into the forest which skirted it on right, or north side—did not find it very impenetrable—there being little underwood— soon emerged again & turned homewards. What an excellent cricket field this part of plain would make. The sight of it would throw old Wilkinson into ecstacies. After tea were visited in our domicile by Mr. Mackay the farmer in Walla'matte who returned thence with McDonald yesterday. He has traversed the country west of Rocky Mountains in all directions. The snake party of trappers of which so much was heard but so little learn't on board the Ganymede proceed to the territory around Lewis's or the Great Snake River & its northern branch & some times enter the northern parts of Menzies in the Snake country. They are much annoyed by the Blackfoot Indians from the other side & some sharp skirmishes often occur. Their mode of travelling is on horseback, with beaver traps slung to the saddle, & they stop at all places where beaver are found until they have exhausted the spot, except when molested by the Indians. They live on buffalo beef. Here several American parties have been massacred by the Indians but the Coy's have always escaped at the worst with the loss of a few lives. New Caledonia is the resort of another large party & their mode of travelling & hunting is similar, only they have not so much to apprehend from the Indians. This country last season produced 10,000 beaver skins, which generally weigh each about 2 lbs. & are sold in London at 25/- pr H. There are no buffaloes & few deer in this country & fish is the support of the hunters. No hunting parties are as yet dispatched from Fort Simpson. Mackay has had many encounters with the bear, & the best way he says, when a wounded bear rushes at you, or perceives you is to stand & reload & when he comes near, if your gun is unloaded look at him steadily & he Will not attack, but raised on his hind legs, will continue to return your gaze until tired of his position, when he takes himself quietly off. Friday, May 10: Up at 7. Wrote part of yesterday's log before breakfast, being too much fatigued last night to go on with it. After having visited patients, looked out several articles of clothing in the store, in case I may be detained in the N. At all the outposts the goods are advanced in price 33J/3 pet. for the Indian trade, as every servant of the Coys is expected to supply himself at headquarters. After dinner, decided on getting a rifle here & of this step ever since arrival & the dangerous nature of the country I am got Mackay to choose one for me—have been pondering on the propriety [176] This map accompanied the British Parliamentary Report on the Hudson's Bay Company in i8$y. The Company's chain of fur trade forts consisted of Forts Vancouver, Nisqually, Victoria, Langley, McLoughlin and Simpson. Fort McLoughlin was abandoned and became Bella Bella. The boundary line of 1846, drawn at the Forty-Ninth Parallel, is indicated but the remaining British Territory on the Mainland was not yet a colony and was designated 'Columbia'. Washington and Oregon were territories. going to, & there being no rifles for sale there—besides that sooner or later I must have got one, these considerations weighed in favor of supplying myself at present, notwithstanding that I am in arrears with the Coy. The rifle costs 150/- — has a flint lock platina touch hole & twist barrel about 4 feet long & weighs 8V2 lbs. only—shall try it tomorrow. In the afternoon busy in arranging the Vancouver's medicine chest. After tea walked for an hour with Macdonald up and down the ravine from river to fort gate. I giving him Invernesshire news & receiving in return as I introduced the subject, useful information regarding this country. Mac is a native of Aber- tarff & commenced his career under Lord Selkirk for whom he enlisted about 40 highlanders for the Red River settlement—in 1806. His party rendezvoused at Inverness & containing some of Glengarry's tenants whom he had enrolled as volunteers. He therefore dispatched a posse of men to Inverness to apprehend the deserters, but Mac apprised of their approach, marched his band to the hills & proceeding during the night along by the braes of Culloden to Croy, came down to the sea at Ft. George & embarked his men in a small schooner for Kirkwall, where Lord Selkirk was, with the bay ships—Macd. natv. of Midmills was the Coys agent at Inverness. The N.W. Coys had settlements all through New Caledonia & the Snake country, but their only post along the coast was Fort George— the union took place in 1820—Lord Selkirk, besides his stock in the Coy's funds, had for his services received an interest in the business which now yields his family £10,000 annually. The Dr. informed me some days ago, that it was owing to the precipitation of one of the MG's I think W. in declaring himself a bankrupt that the NWC's estate did not pay in full— it yielding 15/- under great disadvantages. My disbursements at store amount to 14/-2. Saturday, May 11: Up at 7. After breakfast showed rifle to Macdonald who got Dupote, a noted marksman, to try, but he after 3 shots declared the barrel foul & the sight improperly constructed & it is now in the hands of the Carpenter who understands the thing and is to make the necessary alterations. Busy all day fitting up Vancouver's chest & intended in the evening to have some ball practice with G. but was requested by Govr to copy a correspondence between Coy & Russian Fur Comps. with which have been employed since 6 PM. Sunday, May iz: Up at 8. After breakfast while reading Botasky, saw a party of Indians & a Canadian carrying a box passing along to Government house & they proved to be the bearers of letters from York Factory, which were transmitted from post to post & came thither from [177] Wallawalla being 5 or 6 months earlier than the usual period that the letters are received. Some parties had been dispatched from York to the Saskatchewan during winter & the opportunity of forwarding the Columbia letters by them embraced, it would be very gratifying to those on this side if the same thing could be done annually, but it has only occurred once before. Between Fort Colville & the Boat Encampment, the posts nearest the mts. on either side—& 300 miles distant from each other—travelling for one or two individuals is almost impracticable & the scarcity of Indians in that country makes it precarious & difficult to obtain an escort. This Mr. Cowie says forms the chief obstacle to the sending an express purposely with the letters. At 11 thinking that prayers wd. not be read, the Govr. being still busy with the express, G & I set out to walk & proceeded up the river-side—the day was fine but rather sultry & the sky sufficiently clouded to screen us from the glare & heat of the noonday sun. In the grove bordering river, the feathered songsters were warbling melodiously their note of praise to the creator—saw one fine looking bird the size of a thrush which must endeavour to procure. In chatting on our prospects & projects whiled away the time, halting occasionally when some elegant plant attracted attention. On the brow of the plateau some figures in light dresses were straggling, but whether Indians or Canadians could not discern. Having reached to near the extremity of the farm entered the forest & visited the Indian encampment at which the religious ceremonies were performed last Sunday. Today the lodges were crowded with human beings of all sizes and sexes, squatted closely round the fires which burnt in the middle, not withstanding their filthy abodes the inmates looked fresh & healthy, outside were several wolfdogs who retreated growling at our approach. Shook hands with a few of the principal men & by signs they gave us to understand on enquiry that about sunset the devotional ceremonies would commence. The camp seemed well supplied with food, for the central poles of the wigwam were hung with large pieces of salmon drying in the smoke. What externally appeared as several dwellings within was one apartment & contained at least 50 individuals. Apart from it was a smaller hut, in which an old wrinkled beldame displaying her personal charms without regard to decency, seemed to preside. The women were all in a state of nudity except having the corner of a blanket round loins. In returning met with no adventures. Dined at 2. Rode out after dinner along Vancouver Plain, but my accoutrements being out of order did [not? ] enjoy ride. Returned at 5 & till tea time I sat in our apartment reading Cowper. During our ride the Dr unfolded to G. & me his views regarding the breeding of cattle here. He thinks that when the trade in furs is knocked up which at no very distant day must happen, the 178] hi servants of Coy. may turn their attention to the rearing of cattle for the sake of the hides & tallow, in which he says business could be carried on to a greater amount, than that of the furs collected west of the Rocky Mountains. Furs are already becoming scarce & the present supply is obtained by an almost exterminating system of hunting. In 1792 the NW. Coy. sent more furs from a comparatively small space of country than is now sent to Britain from all the HBC's country & the Government post in Canada. Monday, May 13: Up at 6, writing in office till breakfast—busy till 4 P.M. in packing medicine chest, looking out instruments &c. Was then sent for while writing in office to Dr. who informed me that the Ganymede lay at anchor a short distance down & advised that I should immediately take a canoe & go down for my foul clothes so as to have them washed before the Vancouver shall sail. Went down to the strand, endeavoured to get b's boat, but it was out of repair. Accompanied Capt: Duncan & Mr. Allan down to meet a canoe sailing up to enquire about ships motions. After a tedious scrambling over huge decaying trunks, through tall growth of nettles and thick brushwood, met Kiesno canoe in small creek & learn't from the chief that the ship was close at hand. Took a passage up in the canoe & now the Ganymede steering pretty close to opposite shore about 6 miles distant. She arrived about 7V2. I went off & saw that baggage was ready to be landed early in the morning. In the evng. have been writing & finished the copy of the Cos. Correspondence with the Russians. Tuesday, May 14: Up at 6—as the crew at Ganymede, with warping & could not be withdrawn from that duty to land my baggage, went out with Allan & had some rifle shooting, did not make a good shot. After breakfast went off to Ganymede— got all the loose packages, everything except chests, on shore & safely carted up, & lodged in next room lately occupied by Mackay, who has retired to Wallamatte. Occupied in various ways during day. In the evening sallied out with gun & dog Nimrod, who has grown considerably in the last fortnight & walked along the umbrageous grove by riverside. Fired several shots, killed a swallow, but could not find it in the long grass in which it dropped, saw a beautiful bird, the size of a thrush, but never within shot. ioVz. Feel tired and am going to turn in. Wednesday, May 15: Up at 7. Visiting patients &c. till dinner—at 1 trunks were landed & carted in. Engaged from 4 till 7V2 in repacking trunks to suit the Vancouver. Am to have blk. leather trunk kept in the cabin, the others must go to the hold, but will still be accessible. After tea accompanied G. & followed by Nimrod, along the banks NWwards for some distance, returned by the brow of the hill—evg. clear & beautiful but rather [179] chilly as the mornings and evenings always have been as yet. Chatted with G. about some observations & collections of water I have undertaken to make for him in the North—intermittent fever &c. The fever has appeared within the piquets — the Dr., his son & daughter being laid up with it, bleeding has been tried in the cold stage of the Dr's case & a paroxysm has not since returned, altho' nausea & debility remain, the latter probably a consequence of V.S. Thursday, May 16: Up at 7. Engaged till about 2 P.M. in repacking chests. Have put in No 1, collections of plants, spare articles of clothing, some blankets & also literary works—in No 2, shirts, towels, sheets &c. fine articles of clothing, all scientific works, in No. 3 Surgical Instruments & things required during passage in Vancouver. Today Ryan has been appointed Commander as Duncan intends going home with the Ganymede. Went out in the evening with Macdonald to try rifle—it carries straight & some of the shots were tolerable but the fore sight requires to be larger & more conspicuous. My acct. with store now amounts to £18 but I hope my stock of clothing will last for some years & thought it better to get a good supply while on the spot, than to be ordering hereafter, in case I may be retained in the North. Friday, May 17: Up at 7V2, Macdonald having proposed that I should accompany him by land to Nusqualle in Puget's Sound. I cordially agreed & having obtained the Drs sanction set about making the necessary arrangements, with which, the shipping of luggage, making over patients to G. & writing in office, the day has been occupied. We are to ascend Cowlitz R. to its source, proceed thence on horseback to the bottom of Puget's Sound & holding afterwards a northwest course to arrive by land at Nusqualle & our journey will probably occupy 8 or ten days & I will have frequent opportunities of botanizing & collecting birds. Shall take fowling piece, pistols & skenedhu. Saturday May 18: Up at 7. Putting firearms in order till breakfast time— & engaged till 10 in packing &c. Gave Dr. McL. the acacia seeds got at Oahu & also the drinking calabash. Finished copying the bill of lading begun yesterday. Took a last look at Dahlia bed—the plants are nearly an inch high & numerous. At 11 Vz bade adieu to all at the Fort & accompanied by G. followed Mr. McD. to strand, where our canoe was lying. The day was beautiful, sky cloudless. Majestic Columbia rolling smoothly along & its wooded & winding banks rejoicing in the noonday sun. The face of Nature wore a most engaging aspect & I could not help feeling regret at leaving such a beautiful spot & from the residents in which particularly the Govr. I [180] have met with much kindness. Shook hands with Gairdner, waved a farewell to the Capt: & Mate of the Ganymede & embarked in a comfortable canoe with McD., our crew consisted of four Kanakas, stout fellows, who paddled lustily & soon put us out of sight of the shipping. Proceeded, chatting on various topics—the broils between Coy. & NW.C, Glengarry's feud and many other Invrsshire affairs of ancient & modern date. Landed at iVz to dine at the western extremity of Vancouver Plain, a considerable distance beyond where we had reached on horseback. I sallied out, while dinner was preparing & crossed plain through groves of oak & aspen for nearly lA mile, but did not meet with either plants or game, a tall rank grass being almost the only vegetable. On my return the canoe was posted off & we dined on pickled pork, cold duck, biscuit & some of the Ganymede's porter. Arrived at the mouth of Cattlepootle River at 4. Here overtook canoe which had accompanied the cattle dispatched yesterday by land, had some fine glimpses of Mount St. Helens—its summit is conical & sides more rounded than those of Mt. Hood. It is invested with a pure sheet of snow, unspotted either by rock or tree, and as seen in relief against the deep azure sky immediately over a gloomy ridge of pine trees in the forground produced a fine effect. Cattlepottle at its mouth & for some way up is as broad as the Clyde at Dunglass—its banks low & sandy, covered with aspen and a close brushwood of willow, bramble &c. It being considered unsafe to swim the cattle across at the mouth, agreed to meet at an appointed spot up the river & the other canoe led the way. Took a nap as we proceeded. Landed when we arrived & penetrated into the wood on right bank in two points, but met with nothing to reward my toil, took tempr. of air—76°—at 5 P.M. in the wood. This tributary flows into Columbia in S by W direction—the main channel does not seem broad. The Indians say that it has risen considerably. Mr. McD. pointed out to me one of them who five weeks ago having quarreled with a person living in the same lodge we today saw on the right bank of Columbia stole on him as he lay in front of his dwelling & shot him dead— the surrounding tribes assembled to the number of 3 or 400 & the murderer according to their custom satisfied all who claimed kindred with the deceased with presents & thus expended all his substance which was considerable. When spoken to by Mc soon after the deed, he expressed no contrition but said "The sun was high when I killed him. It was not in the dark. I have paid the price of his blood & what more can I do?" He now seems as cheerful & devoid of care as his fellows. The cattle arriving at 6, Made for a prairie on left bank & landed baggage—the horses were got across easily, but the first pair of oxen turned about the middle of the river & pulling the canoe 181] after them had nearly effected a landing before their progress was checked by the Indians in the other canoe, who then by goading them behind urged them in the proper direction but they were much spent, almost exhausted before reaching this side. While the encampment was being formed, with gun & vasculum went along prairie in N. direction. The plain extended to NW. as far as the sight could reach—about a mile broad & bordered on each side by lofty pinecovered hills & dotted picturesquely with clumps of oak & aspen. The setting sun threw his dying glories over the heavens & earth & the evening was still & serene. Collected several plants, & guided by the smoke returned to encampment & found a nice tent pitched in front a blazing fire & all around the cattle feeding. Supped heartily on sturgeon & the beverage which "cheers but not inebriates". Chatted with McD. Wrote in journal & at n turned in. The number of Chief Factors in the HBC is 25. Chief traders 28. Sunday, May 19: Slept soundly & rose at $Vz. Mg. fine—low strata of fog overlay plain & river but the unclouded sun is rapidly dispelling them & the birds are cheerfully warbling their morning carol of praise to the Creator. The cattle having strayed after a tedious search are just discovered, & being thus detained we are now going to breakfast before starting. Got under way at 7. Emerged from Cattlepootle in about an hour—saw on opposite bank a low projecting knoll—Warrior's Point. Clouds now obscured the sky & we began to dread rain. Coasted along right bank, on which several small vultures seen, tearing their prey. Having heard the sound of the party with cattle in the high ground despatched one of canoemen to their assistance, & appointed the Jolifie River as the evening rendezvous. Now entered a narrow channel 80 or 100 yards wide, beautifully overhung with willow bushes, which formed natural bowers, & in the small coves abounding along banks, ducks in parties of 3 or 4—frequently seen, but were generally startled, before within shot. Fired unsuccessfully thrice. Landed at 11—after we had again entered main channel, at a spot where McD. expected to meet cattle & dispatched two men into the wood with axes to assist—here packed up plants collected last night—Nos. 1 & 2 both belong to Dydinamia Augiospermia—No 3, a leguminose plant like the Vetch—No 4, siliculose, like Cardamine, or Arabis—No 5 a grass, abundant on the plain. Examined Nos 1 & 2 with Parsh, but it occupies too much time. Must be content with noting the appearances of floral & germinative organs which in the dried plant cannot be so well ascertained. Having waited till 12 & the scouts not having succeeded in meeting cattle— returned to a grassy point which appeared to be the lower extremity of [182] Cattlepootle plain, without seeing or hearing anything & again put about. Now I saw the Vancouver under full sail about two miles below & urged canoe to its speed to overtake her, proposing to dine on board, but afterwards thinking of the proverb, a bird in the hand &c. lunched on cold duck & biscuit in canoe—air at izVz 66°—cloudy—Boarded Vancouver at 2 as canoe was injured by striking schooner, sent men on shore to repair damage & remained on board till 3V2. Called to see a boy in the hot stage of Intermittent & prescribed for him. Prepared some doses of Quinine Si Emetic doses of Ipecacuan & gave Alderick the Mate directions as to their exhibition in case others of the crew might take ill. The schooner was making short tacks across river—with a smart northerly breeze, ran close up to Coffin island in one of these—the crew in almost constant occupation shifting the yards, but the facility with which this is done in a schooner renders that class of vessels well fitted for inland navigation. Took leave of Ryan who has obtained the command, Duncan having taken his place in the Ganymede being desirious to go home. Paddled across to right bank & entered Jolifie R. On its lower bank & just opposite to Coffin island is the site of an indian village, which a few years ago contained two or three hundred inhabitants, but at present only its superior verdure distinguished the spot from the surrounding country. Intermittent fever which has almost depopulated Columbia R. of the aborigines, committed its fullest ravages & nearly exterminated the villagers, the few survivors deserting a spot where the pestilence seemed most terribly to wreck its vengeance. Proceeded up the Jolifie, a pellucid stream about the size of the Lochy—landed at a prairie about two miles up & McD & I went on in a S.E. direction, a mile & fired two guns but obtained no response save the loud echoes of the forest.. The plain Vz mile broad extended about a mile beyond where we reached. Covered with tall grass or small pools of water which abounded towards South E. extremity in neighbourhood of river, it bears marks of inundation to a considerable extent—on the left it is bordered by some grassy hills, on whose summits in a few spots the dingy pines give place to bright verdure—towards right a belt of pines intercepts the view. Saw a beautiful black bird with bright scarlet throat & breast. Fired twice unsuccessfully. Returning to canoe, sent two scouts into the wood on left & during their absence pitched the tent. Receiving from them no intelligence—left a man, called Mafaroni or more commonly Rosie, a native of Society islands to arrange camp, kindle fire, & cook & entering canoe went up river two miles—the bed of river could be perceived in most places pebbly but sometimes huge rocks seen—passed a [183] -*«3 small rapid & at 8 firing a gun without response, returned to encampment where the fire was yet to be kindled. Turned in at 11. Monday, May 20th: Up at 5 & having performed ablutions & have till now been writing yesterday's log (7V2 ) occasionally mistaking the nasal trumps of the surrounding sleepers for the lowing of cattle. Air at 6—510. A grey sheet of cloud overspreads the heavens & long wreaths of mist entwine the hills on left- but the day promises well, the birds are singing cheerily in the copse & with more varied melody than I heard yesterday morning. Rosie is now busy with the pots & pans & we shall soon have breakfast. List of plants—No 8. genus vicia — No. 9, Pent: Moi flower white corroll: Polyp regular pet: obcordate—calyx sap: Hypocrateriform, with 5 spurlike processes going down at intervals between sepals—10 Tetr: Silic: coroll: rotate white, cal: 4 fid sepals long & narrow 11 Dec: Trig 12. Hey: Mon: —13. Pent: moi stigma deeply trifed. petals 5. sepals of calyx 2—leaves peltate—14. Icos: Monog. Fimp: cor: Monop: receptacle downy. 15 Vicia—16 Icosand: Polyg. 17. Iris, triandria Monog: After breakfast ascended an eminence near encampment & collected plants in above list, from the summit had some grand prospects—stretched out below, a verdant lawn was the plain on south bank of Jolifie, on the N. bank another extensive plain stretched away till the horizon met the tops of the straggling oaks & pines which diversified. Through a narrow vista in the most remote trees the broad Columbia glimmering in the sunshine rolled along, a monarch of the surrounding streams, while seated on a projecting rock admiring the magnificence of the scene experienced a buoyancy & elasticity of spirit & a feeling of exultation almost, that it was not my lot to toil in a large pent up city. Returned to encampment & during the heat of the day examined & packed up plants. Two men sent out after breakfast returning at 3 without any information regarding cattle, we struck the tent, dined hastily & coming down Jolifie, retraced our course on Columbia, intending to return to where we had stopped yesterday forenoon. After a peal of thunder it came on immediately to rain which continued incessantly for some hours. Hearing a shout in the woods about 5V2 Mac: & I landed & found the Indian Guide of our Party, sent on in advance to explore—he told us they were close at hand & we traversed wood along bank for some distance without meeting them. A species of Geranium very like Robertianum grew in profusion along the bank which was low and marshy—collected two other plants but they have been destroyed. Entered canoe & after an hour's paddling arrived at our party's fire & bivouacked on same spot, the rain [184] still continuing. While on shore at $Vz lost pocket book which must have dropped while I stooped in examining plants. Tuesday, May 21: Up at six just as the cattle had departed, so, not having apprised the men of my loss had only the forlorn hope that they might stumble on the pb as they passed the spot, where we landed—wrote yesterday's journal & embarked at 8. Intended to land in search of pocket book, but Mc. mistook the spot & we passed on. Ascended Jolifie R. which owes its name to the gallantry of some passing voyageurs who admiring the beauteous form of one of the village maids bestowed her name on the river & the now depopulated village. Fired frequently at ducks which issued in pairs at our approach from the small creeks & inlets where their nests were. Mac: wounded a drake & after a tedious chase, which threatened to be unsuccessful I fired & killed him. Fired again and missed, but Rory insisted there was a duck "brokie" or destroyed, & seemed so positive that we neared the shore & accordingly after a short chase, secured a lame duck which must have been wounded some days ago. At 11 Vz passed our yesterday's encampment & scared some large vultures & crows from their feast—met cattle a short way ahead & I was presented with my pocket book by Wascum McDonald, a half breed. He picked it up in passing along the swampy bank we had landed on. Having urged cattle across, landed on western plain of Jolifie & admired the size & beauty of the oaks which diversified its surface. Having agreed to meet cattle on Thursday at the forks of Cowlitz, descended Jolifie—thermom: at 12—66°. Chatted with McD. about Coy. Their capital originally £100,000, afterwards doubled being £400,(000) at the coalition with the N. W. Coy, their capital being estimated at 2 (200,000) The shares are chiefly possessed by the Govr. & Committee, 9 in number & the late agents of the N.W.C.— 5 pet. is paid on the shares by semiannual instalments & at the conclusion of a year a bonus equal to 5 pet more is given, so that the stockholder at present receives 10 pet for his money when the yearly expenditure is defrayed. The surplus funds derived from that year's sale of furs is divided into 100 shares—sixty of which go to the stockholders & the remaining 40 are subdivided into 85 shares whose value varies from 5 to £600 & which are received by the "Winterers" viz 1 share to a Trader and two to a Factor —in all amounting to 78 shares—the other 7 are paid to gentlemen on the retired list who, the first year of retirement obtain the full pay of their rank & for the following six years halfpay. Ascended Cowlitz about six miles and encamped on left bank where the echo in the surrounding forest was very clear—made no botanical acquisitions today. [185] Wednesday, May 22: Mac: got the start of me this morning & had the tent struck before I had finished dressing and we embarked immediately after breakfast about 7. Air 550—clear. Noticed that almost all the alluvial deposits are on the right bank of Cowlitz—the left opposite to these presenting generally a perpendicular face of bare sand 30 to 40 feet high—there is a greater variety of wood all along than I have yet observed—cedars, pines, maple, plane & alder please the eye by their diversity of shade & the grove resounds with the music of the "feathered songsters". Arrived about 11 at a deserted Indian village & startled some large vultures, who hovering above at length perched on the neighbouring trees, awaiting our departure. Mac: left a note here for cattle party—it being the appointed rendezvous & only a short distance from the forks. During this delay fired twice at vultures. Having passed through one of the lodges, found my trousers swarming with fleas, who were travelling rapidly upwards & required active measures to subdue their ambitious propensities. A half starved wolf dog followed us from the huts howling piteously to be taken on board. One of the men, a tall athletic Owyhee landed with a rope as I thought to secure the dog & a ponderous axe in his right hand, with a grin of savage delight, he enticed the dog towards him & then directed a tremendous blow at this poor miserable, which however it nimbly eluded. Was glad to observe some canoes descending among which the dog would probably find a master. Shot a large partridge roused by the dog & which perched on a tree close to bank—had a long conference with 4 Indian canoes just as we passed the forks & learnt that near Nusqually, seven persons had lately been murdered in an affray. The indians were bound for the Wallamattee to procure salmon. In the different canoes the women were engaged in plaiting baskets of stained straw, with their children huddled around their feet. Gave them a little tobacco for Kamass, a bulbous root on which & the young succulent stems of the sweet briar they subsist at this season & on small fish. While Mac: landed at one or two spots in search of the coal bed, collected several plants & packed them between boards, merely glancing at the class and order & general conformation of flower. At $Vz arrived at Coal bed & set the men to work with pickaxe & shovel. The direction of the strata to Pole was N. 70 ° W. They seemed to incline at an angle of 20°—with the horizon on surface of the river—the extent of the bed above surface at least 40 feet & its inferior termination was not reached—about 500 yards below, the bank of river became rocky & continued so 200 yards above coal where a small river entering intercepted its course, but opposite side has not been examined. Got a specimen of rock from inf: ext: it was heavy but easily scratched with a knife & seemed [186] to contain iron—about 100 yds below mouth of small river—the rock, which is flattish & elevated a few feet above the water's edge is raised into small prominences having the porous appearance of volcanic rock. Coal did not seem rich, but more of a slatey or carboligneous nature. Suspended operations at 8 & supped on the partridge which was very tender. Our encampment was way above the coalbed on the porous rock already mentioned. Thursday, May 23: Up at $Vz — Copying Tuesday's and writing yesterday's journal till 8, when entered canoe along with M & ascended the small river until the appearance of the bank denoted the presence of carboligneous matter—put in & found it to resemble that on Cowlitz but here the direction of strata was N.E. & S. W.—its angle of elevation about 25°. It was covered by layers of reddish sandy clay similar to bed on Cowlitz—(this clay appears to be impregnated with iron for near our encampment in one spot, the water oozing from rock has a ferruginous aspect). This stratum is overhung by a loose mossgrown bank of sandy clay, through which a spring trickles—its tempr. at 9 was 46°, that of air 50°— have bottled some of it for Gairdner. The small stream y'cleped by us Coal River is about 50 yards wide & there it sluggishly rolls into the rapid Cowlitz & continued nearly of same breadth as far as we ascended. Magnificent cedars reared their lofty heads on each bank and two fallen trunks formed a natural bridge. The course of river was west by S. as far as spring where it struck away to NW. Left canoe at spring & crossed one or two steep ridges in getting to encampment, scrambling my way over enormous cedar trunks & tearing through a labyrinth of brushwood guided by the shouts of canoe men who, by this time had reached the camp—met with no plants which were not already gathered—a saxifrage, anemone, trientalis & some beautiful monocotyledonous plants appearing in profusion. Embarked at 11, having laid aside a quantity of coal to be carried to Ft. V. by returning canoe. The river now was a continued rapid & it was only by the most strenuous efforts that the canoe could be urged on—on one occasion were obliged to disembark and tow up with ropes & again the channel being obstructed with trunks & branches of trees, I disembarked. Mac: continued poling & the men were deep in the stream straining every nerve to get the canoe past the embarras, where there was an imminent risk of its being swung round by the current & dashed to pieces broadside against the highest of the colossal trees which lay across the stream—their efforts being only sufficient to keep canoe in its position, without moving it upwards in the least. Mac: jumped out to assist and I who as yet was a spectator from one of the trunks [187] forming embarras, followed his example by leaping off the trunk nearest to stern of canoe, about 6 feet from it, but met with unexpected difficulty, being hurried down against embarras, unable to obtain footing in 3 or 4 feet of water, by swimming strongly, at length caught hold of canoe by stern & by its support planted feet firmly on the bottom & lent my strength to push canoe upward which by our united efforts was effected & we got into comparatively smooth water, Being thoroughly soaked except head & shoulders, assist canoe men in poling and paddling to keep up the animal heat and comforted the inward man with a tass of aquavita. In about an hour afterwards watch stopped, the case not being tight, but I expect Mr. Finlayson will be able to repair the damage. Encamped early—about 5V2 P.M.—hung our garments to dry & passed the evening chatting on various subjects. Turned in at 10. Have collected a few plants today, but was obliged to pass several new ones, prevented by the rapidity of the current from putting in. No game met with, but our stock will yet bear another day's attack. Friday, May 25: 11 A.M. Embarked at 6Vz A.M. & with considerable exertion on the part of boatmen reached the second "Coal Mine" about 9— a distance of about two miles from encampment—called at lodge occupied by a party of Indians who last night bivouacked in our neighbourhood on the Coal River—the inmates with starvation depicted in their countenances were huddled around a puny fire placed in the middle of apartment & stretched on mats lay an emaciated being seemingly the father of the family, whose wan and enfeebled frame seemed soon destined to occupy its long resting place—a canoe in some isolated & sequestered spot. Having landed, explored bank for some extent around Coal, lighted fire on a narrow, sandy flat above & there breakfasted. Again examined bank—a feris nearly perpendicular 20 or 30 feet high, upper layer composed of sandy gravel matted together by roots, moss &c. Carboligneous layer then begins, 3 or 4 feet thick laminated & very friable (BB) (refers to sketch) from 10 to 15 feet above water's edge, inclining at such an angle as 50 paces higher up to enter bed of river—the remainder of bank is formed of a soft gray stone colored brownish red in some portions, & mossy & slippery at brink of river. Higher up, bank is elevated at least 50 feet. Steep and sandy at summit— the first layer here is a yellowish hard clay seemingly containing iron numb' 1 here F. (Refers to sketch in margin of diary). E is another thin layer of brownish clay mistaken at a distance for carboligneous matter. D, a thick layer of grey porous stone or sand agglutinated together by clay, then the continuation of coal stratum & lastly G a debris or melange of fragments of all these intermingled with boulders, branches of trees &c. projecting beyond lit coal stratum at one point is a quantity of what appears to be carbonized wood, resembling a bundle of small whale bone staves. The direction of carbol. bed is parallel to Cowlitz which here flows impetuously along in a S by W course. Embarked about 12 & encountered an almost uninterrupted rapid until we encamped at 5. The banks of Cowlitz resemble those described in former journals—generally steep & woody with overhanging bushes of willow & other trees unknown. The general course of the river is N & S. but it makes frequent short windings in all directions, and in some of the reaches, the landscape of wood and water is beautiful. The luxuriance of foliage, magnificence of the trees & large size of the impetuous Cowlitz, never less than that of the Clyde at Dunglass, all combine to impart an air of grandeur to the scene. Passed two indian girls, baking kamass on the shingly beach— they had paddled about 3 miles to this spot, because fire wood could be obtained here with somewhat less trouble than at home. At 5 arrived at a small inhabited village where portage commences & pitched the tent 50 paces higher up. On arrival M. set out with an indian as guide to a village two miles further on to engage horses for our journey. I superintended landing of baggage, erection of tent &c & by 7V2 when M returned had cleaned & loaded guns & pistols. Visited by several women who brought some kamass & then arranging themselves around the fire, squatted on their hips, in indian file commenced a war of extermination against the creeking things in each other's head, each when she made a prize, adroitly placing it on the tip of her tongue & then with the incisors giving the coup de grace. Ordered the filthy wretches to depart several times, but the luxury of enjoying a good fire, without the previous exertion of preparing it was too great a temptation to be overcome by words. While cleaning gun two ugly rascals with bar knives in their hands approached very near me once or twice, jostling each other, however having a pistol in trowsers pocket, which the taller one had seen me loading did not dread an attack, altho' sufficiently alarmed to tell them by Rosie to keep at a more [sentence not complete in MS]. When M. returned, had tea during which he chatted with some indians loitering about the fire & showed them the coal of which they said there was more up the river— the women now returned asking payment for kamass. With Rosie's & Kekane's assistance to dry papers, sat up till the "noon of the night" changing plant papers & it was a lovely night, still & balmy—the innumerable heavenly host glimmering in the cloudless expanse & the pale moon shedding her silvery beams through the trees. Saturday, May 25: Up at 6. Wrote yesterday's journal, collected & packed up some plants before breakfast—after, wrote a short epistle to Gairdner accompanying his Map of America (by mistake taken) & despatched m both by an indian who carried a letter from M. to the Govr. at F.V. M. has decided on taking the canoemen on to Nusqually, if the cattle party do not arrive tonight, & wrote the Govr to this effect. Set out in a canoe to search for coal along the banks upwards, our bark was small & crazy & the indians by no means enthusiastic in the undertaking so after being once nearly upset disembarked & climbing the high & rugged bank arrived at a beautiful prairie extending NE. & SW at least 4 miles—nearly a mile broad & very level for two thirds of its breadth,—the brow of a gently sloping & winding elevation, appearing throughout whole extent, as the face, or rather flank of the remaining & western third, bearing E. the pyramidal St. Helens appeared in immaculate whiteness piercing the fleecy clouds, a long range of snow dappled summits stretching away to Nward, and a lower series of wooded summits to SWard—the foreground occupied with groups of pine-clad hills & the tops of the highest cedars & pines rising out of the deep valley in which the rapid Cowlitz flowed to Wward. The tops of an unbroken forest half, or more, concealed by the winding flank of upper third of prairie formed the horizon, but more to Nward distant & wooded hills arose joining the snowy peaks which extended from the base of the majestic St. Helens. Rounded and undulating summits enveloped in their azure vapors filled up the space to S.Ward. The soil of prairie seemed fertile, it was covered with a luxuriant, but not rank grass, & adorned with a much greater variety of flowers than either Cattlepootle or Jolifie plains, & much fewer trees, only single rows in some spots. Found ripe strawberries, on a sunny brae with an eastern exposure. Stopped at an indian lodge to enquire about horses for our journey across portage & were told that a boy had been to a place a days jo'y. along portage for some horses belonging to Coy. As we neared upper extremity of prairie having walked along a well beaten walk, saw another snowy mountain bearing N.E. & at its base one or two snow capt peaks. Descended a steep wooded bank, travelled for a mile along another wooded plain, our path generally half knee deep in water & mud. Again descended precipitous bank, crossed a small stream in sight of a branch of Cowlitz here bifurcating round an island—two canoes were moored near an indian lodge about 200 paces ahead to which proceeded and entering found the inmates about 12 in number, braiding their hair with wooden combs &c &c. Ate some sundried salmon, roasted on a stick, & drunk out of the limpid stream. Examined a barrier formed across river here about 40 yards wide—7 tripods constructed of strong poles were placed across & supported by these poles stretched horizontally gave attachment to a perpendicular row of small wands sufficiently close to prevent the [ 19° ] passage of salmon or large trout upwards & fastened infy. in bed of stream, also supported by the tripods were frames to which net bags might be fixed & into which the fish would fall in attempting to leap barrier—only one of these contained a bag. Engaged 4 indians with a canoe to convey us down to encampment, but before we had passed the first reach, the canoe was half full of water & we landed to wait for another which some boys were bringing up, but the principal man getting sulky told the boys not to approach, & hurrying off to canoe tried to leave us on opposite bank when he would have us at his mercy, but we guessing his intent followed him closely & wading up to the knees got in, after vainly endeavouring to soften his ire returned by our former route & reached encampment in the evening. M. proposed to go down to the forks tomorrow to see after cattle party & just as he had finished preparations, two indians who arrived on horseback, stated that they had heard five shots up the river which we thought were a signal of our party's arrival. Postponed packing plants gathered in prairie till tomorrow, feeling tired. Had a very refreshing bath in Cowlitz. Hiria being on the lookout as the water was very deep & current strong. Sunday, May z6: Slept till the sun was high above the trees on eastern bank & have since breakfast been writing log—at daybreak Kekane & an indian departed to look for cattle party up at the point where they are to cross near the indian lodge barrier & after breakfast MacDonald followed them—it is now about noon—Kekane Rosie & an indian are lolling in the shade & I am reclining in tent—sunset—southern margin of Cowlitz prairie. Reading an able critique on Chateaubriand's Genie de Christianisme, during the day in Blackwood & also in one of Christopher's flights to the lakes, his description of a Sabbath in one of the lone glens at the Cumberland Lakes written in his own animated and peculiar style. The account of the village church & kind greeting of friends assembled on the green sward in front at the conclusion of the service brought Ardersier to my recollection. In the afternoon, man from Nusqually arrived on horseback on his way to F.V. but he tarried with us until M's party returned — has since been added to our party. M. returned about 4, having fallen in with cattle party about a mile up & with much exertion, succeeded in getting cattle across. He was followed by several Canadians & indians on horseback & after eating some boiled pease we struck tent, loaded the pack saddles of uncouth workmanship & traversing wood above encampment, arrived shortly before sunset at the resting place of cattle on the southwestern border of prairie, where a cheerful fire blazed, much to the gratification of a group of lazy indians squatted around it—the horses were feeding before & the oxen grazing in an [i9'J open space in the wood behind. The prairie now seemed encircled with trees which rose a bristling serrated wall around. St. Helen's bearing E. towered high in unclouded magnificence & the other mountain called by the indians—Puskehouse bore E.N.E. at summit, divided into two rounded eminences with a narrow intervening hollow, its form suggesting the vulgar comparison which that of Dunbarton Rock has for ages done. The higher & more easterly eminence has a precipitous face while the remainder is invested in snow—the ascent seems most practicable from S.E. by which this precipice is avoided—the evening serene and beautiful & the monarch of day threw his departing radiance over the scene. It is now 10 & we are both writing in tent—M to the Govr. by the Owhyees who depart in the canoe tomorrow. The light hearted Canadians are chatting cheerfully around the fire, reciting their adventures & the guttural intonations in Chenook show that the indians have not yet departed—are now four day journey from Nus- qually & the roads are reported good, but if we do not find the Vancouver there we will be on short commons as the men there have no provisions. Monday, May 27: Up about 6—mounted & set out at 7. Disturbed two deer as we ascended the gentle slope forming the eastern boundary of upper prairie of Cowlitz. Our course lay through rich & level prairies & prairions or smaller plains, separated from each other by belts of wood from 100 paces to V2 a mile broad, through which the road was execrable, knee deep in water & mud, or laid out in ridges & deep furrows formed by large roots extending across; or obstructed with trunks of large dimensions and at the same spot overarched with low branches, so that while the horse sprang over the obstacle, were between the devil & the deep sea & to avoid being entangled in the branches above had to cling to the horse's neck, was twice nearly hooked off by a projecting leafless branch. Were attended by a cavalcade of 4 indians, attired in large blue capots, leather tights & mocassins, bearing each his musket. About 4 arrived at first stage of portage 20 miles from Cowlitz & encamped in a long narrow prairie extending S. & N. of different elevations marked by winding slopes dotted with many woody knolls & its surface enamelled with a profusion of the blue flowered kamass & yellow ranunchilus—a few indian hovels were scattered along the margin of a lazy stream & in the hollow formed between two long winding woody elevations about 12 horses were feeding —this spot reminded M. & me of some of the romantic glens of Albyn. Tuesday, May 28: Encampment on Grand Prairie. Up in the grey of morning & out deershooting but after traversing prairie for nearly a mile did [ 19^1 not meet any animals. Returned & finished yesterdays journal—breakfasted on boiled pease & started about 8—on foot—from the brow of a hill flanking prairie to N. had an extensive view—the broad flat plain of green & yellow hues spread out beneath, encircled with wood & in the distance a large extent of low waving hills all blackening with tall pines—in descending hill on opposite side frequently up to knees in mud, crossed two lower ridges, occasionally meeting with new plants, which afforded encouragement to continue walking. Passed several beautiful prairies, the two latter of which have been of a more sandy soil, making a northerly course—after entering this prairie had a smart canter & got to encampment about 2—after packing plants & dining—walked out in the evening & proceeded to a round eminence, a fairy knowl at NW side, which perhaps was formerly an island in the lake which from the sandy soil & profusion of rounded stones or boulders on the surface I suppose to have occupied plain. The evening was serene & clear & the king of day setting behind a waving ridge of pine clad hills achieved the sombre aspect of the surrounding forest. The Chechelis R., a rough broken stream, bordered plain on S.W. & appeared in a few spots through openings in its wood fenced banks. Visited in the evening by several chiefs, the most important of which was dressed in a blanket, capot, blue vest & trowsers, a foot too long, english hat & Blucher boots. He was a little old man, very forward & intrusive wishing to invade the precincts of our tent, hitherto kept sacred from the lousy disseminating presence of an Indian, he succeeded however in favoring Mac: with a colony of fleas who kept him in purgatory all night. The old fellow was going to a meeting for the purpose of deliberating on the propriety of accepting two slaves as a peace offering from the northern tribes for the murder of two of his kinsfolk. Wednesday, May 29: Up early & after a tedious delay in catching horses, & loading we (M. & self) started on foot & walked in the grand prairie along its N E. border for some miles. Met a party of Indians regaling on a deer killed by a young Indian whom M. supplied with ammunition last night—they had concluded repast & the bloody members, head &c. were hung to the youths saddle, who rode behind us. Mounted at a marshy point of wood, having collected nothing & continued on horseback till we rested about 2, to lunch—the prairie was dry & sandy & raised into regular rows of low circular mounds or hummocks for an extent of at least a couple of miles. Crossed a steep hill & much incommoded by the heat & glare of the sun, which induced headache. In the woods, Galtheria Shallon abundant, growing [ 193] to the height of 10 or 12 feet on the borders of path. Prairies dry & sandy or gravelly but as M. observed admirably adapted for sheep. Encamped about 5 on the bank of a clear streamlet under the shade of lofty cedars. Tea relieved headache. Packed the few plants collected & chatted with M. on the comparative advantages of passing the evening of life in Canada or in Caledonia & decided the latter was the more preferable. About 10 Morpheus asserted his power over all the camp. [ l94 . iWk Fort Nusqually and Fort McLoughlin 1833 Thursday, May 30: At 5 M & I started in advance at a brisk canter & arrived at Nusqually shortly after noon, having crossed several plains intersected with belts of wood & two steep hills where obliged to dismount. Forded the Nusqually about 3 miles from its mouth, where it is about the breadth of the Leven at Honhill, but rapid & broken. Passed some pretty green hills, sprinkled with young oaks & winding away to westward, continued along the same plain which extended still as far as the eye could reach to Northward & descending a steep bank arrived at the proposed site of Nusqually Fort on a low flat about 50 paces broad on the shores of Puget's Sound—the most conspicuous object was a store half finished next a rude hut of cedar boards—lastly a number of indian lodges constructed of mats hung on poles in the shape of a cartshed. Welcomed by a motley group of Canadians, Owyhees & Indians, & parties of the latter were squatted around the fire, roasting mussels. Entered hut & therein deposited accoutrements, while M. conversed with the servants. Bathed in the sound which was smooth as crystal & bordered by a sloping beach of shingle, behind which a steep wooded bank arises, & approaches in some spots very near the high water mark. Went up to prairie with M. & saw the proposed site of Fort & Farm. The fort is to be erected along the bank of a streamlet, which in its devious course through plain presents points well adapted for Millseats, & the most fertile spots in the comparatively barren prairie are to be ploughed for a crop of potatoes & pease, this season. M. is doubtful whether to erect the store houses at the mouth of the streamlet, or 150 yards to S. ward, where one is already nearly completed. If the former site be chosen, the whole establishment would be on the right bank of stream & therefore more compact, but it would be necessary to cut a platform, or plane from the bank, large enough for the site of stores & the hill behind is more steep than to S. However there is the advantage that Corn & Saw Mills could be placed at only 30 or 40 yards distance from the stores & then only a thrashing mill wd be necessary up at the farm which is about Va mile up the stream. If the present site be pitched on, the ascent to prairie is rather easier & the flat beach affords a base for building on, but as the farm, fort &c. is on the opposite [195] bank of the burn which runs in a pretty deep ravine, a bridge for the crossing of carts &c must be erected. These are M's projects, but as he is to remove to another post this summer, he will not superintend their completion. Friday, May 31st. Up about 6 & occupied till 10 or 11 in changing plant papers. Went out in a canoe, endeavouring to come within shot of two enormous herons who were stalking about in the shallow water at the mouth of Nusqually River but betook themselves to flight on my approach, followed on foot along the pebbly beach, to where they had alighted on the sand but could not approach sufficiently near to fire. They are much larger than any I have ever seen. Went up the hill to prairie where Mr. M. & the men were felling trees where with to erect a temporary dwelling & M. had wandered along prairie in an easterly direction—a small garden about 40 yards square had been formed five weeks ago & sowed with onions, carrots, turnips & cabbage which all appeared above surface, but seemed to suffer from drought, some rows of potatoes planted at the same period looked well. Today a path across stream has been cleared about a gunshot above garden, where the mills & bridge are to be erected. Returned to dinner, & being all day annoyed with toothache remained within during evening—reading in an old newspaper the evidence on the Bank of England question. Saturday, June 1: Up about 6 & writing yesterday's journal before breakfast. M. being busy writing remained in hut, reading some Montreal Papers in French & Blackwood, an address to the future Electors of G. Britain from the powerful pen of Christopher, I think, in which he strives to stem the tide of revolutionary feeling, by showing the lamentable consequences which would ensure from altering materially the present state of things as regards any of the great questions, which agitate the political world—The Church, Corn laws, Funds &c, the writer displays a supercilious, contemptuous spirit, talking of the Conservatives as possessed & the Whigs as destitute of every virtue, nevertheless he correctly observes that in these times, democracy is much more to be dreaded than Aristocracy or Monarchy. Chatted on politics in the evg with M. Sunday, June 2: Up about 8 & had an excellent view of a long range of snow speckled mountains, in the peninsula opposite—they run in a N & S , direction & to the highest summit, the classical name of Mount Olympus has been given—the foreground is filled with a densely wooded island indented with one or two bays about a mile in length & of which there are several in this part of the Sound. Had a solitary walk in the prairie in the afternoon before dinner, came to a beautiful lake, nearly circular & about Va mile round, the broad leaved Nymphea floated on its unruffled bosom & Flora adorned its margin with a profusion of yellow ranunculi & others unknown— [196] ma on the sloping grassy banks forming the basin, the oak & a small glossy fresh leaved Pine, something like the Larch vied with each other in number & size, but the former demanded the palm of beauty—Lay musing for nearly an hour on its bank, soothed by the melodious harmony of the grove & feeling the holy influence of the sabbath stealing over me in this beautiful sequestered spot. Walked round the lake & turned homewards, sometimes in the open prairie & again, going through a maze of Oak & Pine, came to the steep banks of the burn, higher up than where the pathway is formed, & there found the lazy steers reclining in the shade, in the midst of luxuriant pasturage, what a pity that a country which so easily could afford subsistence to man is yet uninhabited. Got bewildered in the wood extending for about 500 yards behind the brow of the hill which all around the Bay except at Mouth of Nusqually, overhangs the beach. Made a N. course till the brook again appeared & being thus rectified, proceeded westward, till arriving at the brow of the hill, had a peep of the Sound, with its woody islets & the lofty Mt. Olumpus range rising high over a ridge of pines growing on an island in the foreground. A beautiful walk of more than a mile could be formed along the face of this hill, until it should terminate in the vale of Nusqually, & with a slight aid from the axe, splendid prospects obtained. I have not explored the bank on the north side of the streamlet, but probably there, a road could be much further prolonged & when tired of the shady wood you could emerge into the boundless prairie, to which any nobleman's park in which I have been cannot once be compared either in size, beauty or magnificence. Descended the steep & gravelly face of hill, had a delighful plunge in the bay & dined. In the evening chatted & promenaded the beach with M. Monday, June 3: Spent the early part of day in writing yesterday's journal & engaged greater part of afternoon in changing plant papers. Dined about 2. In the evening chatting with M. on the affairs of the Coy. and the Red River Settlement. An eagle of the white headed species brought to me which shall examine tomorrow morning. Tuesday, June 4: Up about 5 & have begun examination of eagle [Statistics of size follow here]. Thought of preserving skin, but after commencing operation & finding it in bad order & much injured by shot, desisted. After breakfast, horses being provided M. & I set out to explore prairie. Passing the small lake visited on Sunday came to the marshy bank of the small mill stream which has been denominated the Coe startled a pair of herons from their nest, but could not come within shot—the hen employed many devices to lead us away, flying close & when pursued running away. [197] Crossed the stream & in a NE. direction rode for more than a couple of miles with the wooded & marshy bank of stream on right & sometimes a small pond & low grassy hills thinly clad with oak & pine on left—the soil is fertile on the borders of the Coe & this summer will yield a good crop of natural hay. Turned eastward & had before us a boundless prairie, diversified with belts & clumps of oak & pine & seeming to extend with only a few interruptions of woods to the base of a distant range of hills apparrelled with some pine running N. & S. The prairie was bordered on each side with low undulating hills—that on left covered with a profusion of young oaks, hazel bushes & brake affording good cover to the Deer, & the rich grassy flats at base, abundant feeding on the winding hills to right, pines crowned the summits, & oak possessed the flanks. The soil of plain was dry & stony, here & there isolated mounds appeared like green islands, adorned with verdant foliage & again in their turn bordering smaller prairies unless we consider the whole extent as one immense plain. In returning saw again the green winding hills admired in coming to Nusqually & called them oak hills. They looked more beautiful than ever—oak there hold undisputed sway & no envious brushwood conceals the smooth grassy slope of the rising ground from the view. Returned about 4 & dined. In the evening after tea gave M. at his request a brief lecture on the Circulation of the Blood. Saw the Indians performing incantations to the Great Spirit for the restoration to health of a sick child. Three were seated round a fire in the centre of mat hut chiming a monotonous chant & keeping time by striking on a paddle with small sticks—a fourth who occasionally chimed in with the singers was attending & perhaps administering to the infant—an old woman also seated by the fire took no part in the ceremony. Wednesday, June 5: Up early & out in a canoe before breakfast after wild duck, fired several unsuccessful shots. Killed a species of Colymbus, or Guillemot not described in Cuvier—after breakfast set out with M. in a canoe to visit the banks of Nusqually River, landed twice on the quaking sands at its mouth & again on a broad meadow forming its eastern bank— the meadow was probably 1V2 miles square, at its lower part marshy & covered with luxuriant plantains, higher up, with tall waving grass & a slender species of Juncus & more dry. M. talked of procuring hay here, which the place at present would abundantly afford. Lagged behind M., shot a black-bird with bright scarlet upper wing coverts, similar to those seen on Jolifie Prairie, also a bird the size of Tomtit—overtook M. at an indian lodge on river's bank where the inmates were eating the young flower stalks of a specie of plantain abundant on the meadow, joined in & enjoyed [198] the repast. Crossed to western bank & proceeded for a considerable distance along another meadow perhaps 3 miles square, similar in its character & productions to the former—trees dying & dead render it probable that the sea is gaining on the land. Both meadows are possessed of a fertile soil & would afford subsistence to a large herd of cattle—returning saw the white headed eagle several times within shot but did not fire—in one instance observed a small bird the size of a lark pursuing him fiercely for a short distance. Must refer to Wilson for the name of this bird, which as that author mentions, so courageously drives the gigantic spoiler from her nest. After dinner prepared skin of Colymbus & thereafter accompanied M. to farm which we had not visited for several days—the potatoes were greatly improved by the rains of Monday & Tuesday & also the carrots & turnips— a pen had been formed near the tent of Pierre Charles the superintendent of works, in which the oxen were enclosed & nearer the bank of the Coe a substantial house of red pine, but which wanted a roof for its completion. The space occupied by this infant establishment is perhaps 100 square yards, & it is enclosed on all sides by tall pines except towards the NE. where it is open to the boundless & picturesque prairie. It was gratifying to witness this the first step towards colonization & the calm stillness of the gloaming was well calculated to excite pleasing sensations. Returned by N. bank of Coe & after tedious scrambling through the wood to find a log bridge had at length to doff trowsers & wade for at least 200 yards stumbling along the steep bank of stream with a very high tide, & where a false step would have made swimming necessary. Air 7 A.M. 58° 6 P.M. 68°. Thursday, June 6: M. being anxious about the delay of the Vancouver, we set out this morning in a canoe to proceed the length of Partridge Point, in case the Vancouver may be on this side that point, or detained in the neighbourhood of it—are now 3 PM. on shore climbing on the western margin of sound with Mt. Rainier bearing E. & unclouded to the summit— its form is pyramidal, it forms part of a chain running N & S. on which a few patches are discernible to N. of Mt R. which is elevated above the other peaks I should think 3000 feet & with the exception of some precipitous rocks on its western flank, entirely covered with snow. From the shady cove where am seated the landscape is fine. The sound at least 4 miles in breadth occupies the foreground, its surface diversified with woody islands, & more at hand broken with the frequent leaping of fish—in the distance is Mt. Rainier & the snowy summits of the mountains to N. peeping over the pineclad islands in the sound. Encamped on a sandy beach [ 199] about 8, having an hour before passed a small rock called Seal Island & fired several shots at its winged inhabitants. Two curlews obtained. The indians frequently kill seals there. Friday, June 7: Started about 7 & stopped to breakfast at 9 at a marshy flat. I obtained some Juncagineae, & I think a species of Anemone. Landed again in the afternoon at some indian lodges where we ate some roasted salmon, cooked by a dirty old squaw. Saw right ahead the extremity of Quadra & Vancouver's island—low & woody & a wide extent of sea between it and Protection island on the left—it blew fresh & began to rain in the afternoon & the rain continued during the night. Attempted to skin blackbird, but owing to the progress of putrefaction and the consequently loose attachment of the feathers, the skin was worthless. Encamped on a low sandy peninsula exposed on all quarters to the "pitiless pelting of the storm" but the tent soon sheltered us & the men propping up the canoe on its side, got under its lee & forgot all their cares in balmy & sonorous sleep. To guard against a night attack, watch was kept all night as we are now amongst the indians who murdered Mackenzie & a party of five a few years ago. Saturday, June 8: Started about 7 & stopping at a lodge about 8, purchased a large woolly dog for 5 loads of powder & ball. Hiria was appointed executioner on account of the dexterity & willingness for the task displayed by him in his unsuccessful attempt against the starving cur found at the deserted lodges on the Cowlitz River. Hiria soon dispatched his victim with a blow of the ponderous axe & on our stopping to breakfast on the bank of Hood Canal cut him up & potted him in a trice. Met an indian here with this party whom M. was desirous to see. They were preparing to embark—one large canoe loaded with hampers containing their stores of kamass, dried clams & cockles lay moored near beach, & several smaller ones were yet to be filled with about 18 men, women & children who were seated around. Saw the cradle used—an elastic piece of wood about 8 feet long is fixed perpendicularly in the ground—to this is suspended with cords (like a scale to the end of a beam) a board about two feet in length & one in breadth—the child enveloped in moss or the bark of trees torn in fibres is placed on this horizontal board, & two smaller boards laid over it & fastened complete the cradle from which a cord descends & is attached to the mother's big toe who, by pulling the cord rocks the cradle with a very easy & gentle motion—the perpendicular rod, which is the mainspring of the apparatus, is strong enough to support a covering for the cradle during rain. Breakfasted on elk's flesh roasted on a stick which was split to receive it [ 200 ] 4 between the prongs. Saw a double barrelled gun, belonging to the deceased Mackenzie, now possessed by one of the party, who was not however concerned in the murder. Again navigated Hood's Canal & about 2 encamped on the western shore of sound, near the lodge where we yesterday lunched. Have been since reading Belisair aloud alternately with M. & contending about the pronunciation. M. displays a very laudable desire for self improvement, seldom met with in men of his age. Have been accompanied by the possessor of Mackenzie's gun who resides at this part of the sound, about Vz mile to S. of encampment. His name is Shallicum. After tea visited two of the lodges & one of them (Shallicum's) presented a greater appearance of plenty than any yet seen—he is a chief of some note & well disposed towards the whites, displaying more hospitality than any other of the Indians met with on our journey, for he requested us to eat, on entering, while the others generally bargained for payment before giving what we asked. Watch again set at 10 taken in turns of two hours each by the men. Had pistols within reach during night. Sunday, June 9: Awake at 5 & reading Cowper's Poem on Charity till nearly 8. About 10, after breakfasting crossed the channel here perhaps about 3 miles in breadth & while M. went to some lodges on the beach with his attendant Shallicom, I ascended the steep bank & came to a clear verdant slope about Va mile in length & having a dense grove of alder, about its centre, we had admired the beauty of this spot from our encampment on the opposite shore, which seemed an oasis on the flank of the hill frowning on all other sides with gloomy pines—the soil seemed fertile. M. brought intelligence that the Vancouver was in one of the bays a short distance up the sound. Reembarked & steered for the middle channel to take advantage of the ebbing tide, soon saw a white speck appearing in relief against the tall trees on the distant eastern bank & after half an hour's elapse, agreed that it was the ship. At 2 she was 2 miles distant, with swelling sails, stemming the powerful tide as she rounded a sandy pt & proved a most agreeable sight to us reduced to the prospect of sharing with the men their repasts on dogs' flesh in a day or two. Got on board at 3 & found all well. Ryan having met with a series of tiresome calms ever since leaving Cape Disappointment this day fortnight—the decks were crowded with Indians, desiring to trade their beaver & 3 or 4 canoes were towing astern. Received a hearty welcome from Nimrod, who has prospered well. We are now 7 P.M. running up with a tide, having "all sail set" not much wind. Evg. fine. Mt. Baker a lofty snow clad mountain bears N. & a lower range of snow tipped summits rise over the woody bank of sound to S. [ 201 ] Monday, June 10: Up at 8—about which time the anchor was hoisted on board & as the breeze was very slight, the sweeps were manned. The sweeps are very large oars which work on an iron pivot at the forepart of deck, about six men were employed at each today, one pushing & guiding the sweep from before & the remaining five pulling on a rope fastened to its handle from behind. After breakfast changed plant papers & read in Vancouver's Voyage an account of his Transactions at the Sandwich Islands, his persevering efforts to reconcile the warring potentates of these isles show him to have been a humane & enlightened man but the events after his decease proved that his exertions were unavailing and it was doubtless ultimately beneficial that the victorious Tamehameha whose noble character V. well describes reduced the petty states under one yoke for there has since been no recurrence of the devastating wars which marked & long preceded his reign. Dined at 12—afterwards got out Hooker F.B.A. which glanced over along with M. Have since been reading Cowper & promenading the deck. The day has been beautiful, since 10 have a tolerable breeze & for some hours a powerful tide has been carrying us along—from the deck have had an excellent view of the banks on Sound—they are generally covered with pines to the water's edge, by their windings forming frequent small bays & running out again into low sandy points—they are composed of a white sand or clay — occasionally present a bare precipitous face of from 1 to 200 feet in elevation—a few grassy slopes with irregularly scattered trees charm the eye by their verdure & fresh appearance. Tuesday, June 11: While writing journal about 8V2 last night an express canoe met us about 6 or 8 miles from N. with the intelligence that Pierre Charles had in the forenoon severely wounded his foot with an axe & that apprehensions were entertained of his life being in danger, with all speed got out surgical instr: set out in our own canoe, manned by the voy- ageurs who accompanied us down. Arrived at Nusqually about 10 & had Pierre removed from his tent to the Cedar hut. Learn't that he had nearly fainted, soon after the accident & that not more than 2 oz of blood were lost. Thought it improper last night to remove a canvas cloth which Randal the Cooper had applied to the foot, but kept the latter up till daybreak applying cold water, & then with Ouvrie's & his assistance removed cloth & found a terrible wound extending from situation of astragalus in ancle joint, along skin half an inch of proximal extremity of great & 2nd toes— Metatarsal bones being probably sliced. The point of axe penetrated to the sole, where it left a gaping wound of more than an inch in extent. Wound on dorsum was filled with coagulated blood & its lips an inch asunder at middle, only a fourth at each end. Applied loosely 3 strips of adhesive plaster and above these, lint dipt in cold water—over all a canvas bandage. Half an hour after arterial blood began to ooze freely as to make the removal of dressing necessary, which being done, a vessel probably the superior plantar was found bleeding freely. Unable to subdue the bleeding by pressure cleared away coagula — endeavoured to seize the artery with tenaculum, two smaller ones springing now, tourniquet applied to femoral artery—a handkerchief tightly around leg above ancle joint, hemorrhage continued briskly notwithstanding the mouths of the bleeding vessels being deep in the wound & with difficulty laid hold of with button foreceps. The patient and attendants were greatly alarmed & I returned heartfelt thanks to the Almighty when after two vessels were secured by torsion the bleeding quickly diminished. I as well as the poor fellow was placed in a very critical situation. He lost at least [?] of blood, trembled violently & repeating his prayers, I believe gave himself up for lost, but the comparative goodness of the pulse always inspired me with hope. Applied a wet handkerchief loosely & about 11, lint spread with Thigt. Calamin: administered a powerful dose of Sulph: Soda & ordered spare diet. Changed plant papers after dinner & afterwards went up to plain where remained till 8, examining the land to be ploughed tomorrow & having visited the marshy banks of Coe where the oxen & horses were pasturing on luxuriant grass, rushes &c. This place seems a favorite resort for the smaller birds of which there is a considerable variety. Wednesday, June 12: Up at 6 & going on shore with M. set the men to work cutting potatoes, while others were employed in finishing the store for the reception of goods from Schooner. M. being unwilling that the goods should be left without a gentleman in charge, more than once expressed his anxiety on the subject & today it was settled that I should remain instead of going on with the vessel to Millbank Sound. This proceeding would not perhaps have been adopted, were it not for Pierre Charles who will require medical attendance longer than the Vancouver can stay here. Pierre's foot looked well when dressed—the greater part of wound seems likely to heal by adhesion. Medicine had operated well, & all the functions are performed regularly. He is a middle sized broadchested Indian, a Banakir from near Montreal, aged 40 & the best deer hunter of the Rocky Mountains, having on Saturday last slain 3 elks & a chevreux, the bloody members of which occupy a fourth of the cedar hut—in the afternoon superintending operations on farm when a few potatoes were planted & a few rows ploughed about 500 yards from house. Ryan accompanied us & was somewhat bewildered with the extent & magnificent appearance of [ 203 ] the prairie, so much so as to mistake the burnt trunk of an oak for a black bear—this evening the store is almost finished & the goods are to be landed in the morning. As yet we sleep & mess on board the Vancouver who arrived yesterday about 11. Thursday, June 13: Up at 6 & busy till SVz receiving goods from ship into the store—the cargo consisted wholly of trading goods viz blankets, baize, strouds, ammunition & some trifles to be given as presents, & provisions viz—groceries, pease & indian corn, biscuit beef—wines, port & madeira & rum, besides stationery &c. After breakfast dressed Pierre's foot, which looked well, applied a few strips of adhesive plaster in order to bring the lips of wound more in apposition & bandaged limb loosely—afterwards went on board to prepare medicine in doses for ship-use during her voyage. Dined at one, about 2 received a message to visit Pierre who felt unwell. Found him suffering much from pain in wound, the edges of which seemed more lurid than in the morning—there flowed pretty copiously from it a thin serous fluid, & he said the throbbing pains were very severe. Had a rigor of short duration & says he had one at 8 this morning. Applied a poultice after using fomentations for some time with relief—this evening changed the poultice, pain considerably abated, has had gr x P. Ipecac:c. which is now (10) to be repeated. M. has bartered about 90 beaver's skins besides those of other animals today. There have been several arrivals since the trading ceased, a party from the Cowlitz headed by Karke & Callipicua, all armed horsemen, a large party of Kalalums from the western shores of the Sound along Hood's Canal. The chiefs were treated with a long harangue from Babyar who is the most noisy, if not the most eloquent speaker I have ever heard & seems to delight in spouting. Are now in the store where we intend sleeping tonight. Friday, June 14: Up at 5. Busy all day in getting a selection of medicines from Vancouver's chest for the use of this establishment & attending to the traffic with the Indians so as to fit myself for the office of Trader. A large party on horseback, from the base of Mt. Rainier arrived in the afternoon & what with men, horses, canoes &c. &c. the place presented an air of business, reminding one of a country fair. The indians are now collected in groups around the blazing fire scattered up & down the strand. About 50 beavers' skins traded. Pierre slept well lastnight & perspired copiously. Pain of limb much abated. Administered a dose of Cal: et Jalap, which operated twice. Foot swollen & somewhat puffy, still a discharge of serous matter from wound which I am inclined to think has penetrated the capsular ligament of ancle joint. A slight hemorrhage at 3 obliged me to [ 204] remove poultice which I replaced by a dressing of Calamine Cerate, enveloping the foot in a cotton handkerchief which ordered to be kept wet with cold water, a continuation of the poulticing would perhaps induce suppuration at all events a relaxed state of the parts. Saturday, June 15: Cold lotion continued with Pierre till this afternoon when it was abandoned owing to the severe pain felt in foot & a poultice again applied. Has felt cold & chilly all day. To have at 4 P.M. gr x P. Ipec: C. which is to be repeated at 8. To drink copiously of warm water. Pierre's house, the one recently occupied by us, is quite unsuitable for a sick person, it being pervious to the air & rain in a hundred places—today there being a strong SW. breeze, he felt it very uncomfortable, the wind entering at the numerous chinks & playing on his wounded foot, which tho' enveloped in two thick blankets, felt acutely every gust. Have made a lame attempt to remedy this evil, but as the wind has nearly ceased, it does not now prove so annoying. Visited Mr Aldritch mate of the Vancouver whose stomach & bowels are disordered, prescribed an emetic instanter, & a purga. when the vomiting should cease, and recommended him, as he complained of pain at Epigastrium, to apply a sinapism thereto, — this failing to relieve pain to take gat xxx TK. Opii. The Vancouver sailed at 4, saluting us as she got under weigh & sailed down the Sound with six guns— we returned the compliment from a wall piece. In the evg. accompanied M. to the farm, where the plough & harrow were at work. The potatoes which amount to 30 kegs cut, are nearly all in the ground. Sunday, June 16: Pierre—did not remove poultice from foot until he should complain pain, which he did about 2—there is considerable tumefaction around ancle and it does not pit on pressure, on dorsum of foot over metatarsal bones of three smaller toes there is a tense fluctuating swelling—continuous with left lip of wound and swelling of ancle joint. From wound there is a discharge of healthy looking, but rather thin pus, —in distal half granulations are sprouting, but in the proximal moiety there is a semiorganized coagulum of blood now about to be thrown off and a portion of the belly and tendon of the Ext: brevis Poll: Pedis seems in a sloughy condition. Perspired freely and slept lastnight. No stool today. Fearing the existence of phelgmonous erisypi: on dorsum of foot I made an incision an inch long, on the most prominent part. A small quantity of serum escaped & was followed by a smart hemorrhage from a minute artery which speedily yielded to pressure with the forefinger, a pit being formed in integum where the force was exerted. Inserted a rag since red with cerate between lips of wound and applied a cataplasm made of 3rd flour to foot. He suffered considerable pain for about two hours, but in 205 ; the evg. felt better—although pulse rather quick. Changed plant papers & have been reading the Bible in the evg. About 40 skins traded. Monday, June 17: Pierre slept well till 11 last night when his foot slipped off the supports on which it lay & he has since till morning been in great suffering. Removed cataplasm about 8. It had become rather dry & had adhered in some points thus irritating instead of soothing limb—tumefaction now extends about 4 in: above ancle joint & pits on pressure. Integuments at ancle & on dorsum of foot red & inflamed. Wound discharged pus of a good colour but rather thin. Removed greater of coagulated blood & sloughy tendon has nearly separated. No discharge from incision made yesterday. Applied a cataplasm to dorsum of foot, & flannel wrung out of warm water to ancle, to be changed every hour. In the forenoon pain in foot very severe, said he felt it shooting along his thigh & along left side to his heart which palpitated violently. Gave 1 gr opium with 2 Calomel, says he had a natural stool this morning of good consistence, but doubting his veracity somewhat & with a view to relieve irritation exhibited about 1 o a small dose of Sulph: Soda. 3 P.M. has taken some rice soup for dinner, pain alleviated & he now feels more tranquil. P. full but less hard 80. Have had the house made more comfortable with boards laid over the roof &c. 9V2—Had felt a frequent desire for stool during evening with pain at epigast: but could not discharge anything. Has taken about a pint of the elk soup & continues easier. Prepared materials for giving an enema, but before taking this step, removed dressings & when the cataplasm & fomentation cloth were again applied he felt the pain & uneasiness of bowels so much alleviated that a clyster was thought unnecessary. P. 80 softer. T. rather brown at centre, its margin white. Limb appeared less swollen throughout, surface of wound coated with healthy pus & granulations more prominent. Removed a large portion of . . . [illegible]. Applied a cloth dipt in a water infusion of opium 3 gr to 1 oz. water around foot. Have been unpacking trunks during afternoon. Presented M. with a horn dressing comb & an ivory handled knife & fork. Tuesday, June 18: Pierre passed a liquid stool lastnight. Slept well. Another evacuation this morning, liquid & rather slimy. T. still brown on centre. Pulse 80 full. Feels foot much easier. Continue fomentations. 4 P.M. Removed poultice & dressings. There has been a copious discharge of healthy pus—florid granulations are filling up the gap left by the removal of putrid coagulum, which I have now got completely away. Integuments red & tense between left lip of wound & incision and a subsultus of the extensors of toes has been felt all day. T, cleaner. P. 80 soft. Appetite good. Diet today tea & cakes made of common 2nd flour. Perspired freely after drinking [206] some warm tea. No stool since morning. Urine free. To have some Portwine. Poultice to be omitted, as in drying from its amylaceous nature, it adheres very firmly to skin & irritates—a piece of thick blanket wrung out of hot water to be applied—9 P.M. Have had bed made more comfortable, but patient now complains of considerable pain, both in foot, & trochanter of same limb which latter he has rested upon for some days. P. quicker & feebler. Thinks the cold air entering by the door affected the limb while bed was being made. To have opium. Engaged today in arranging firearms & trunks. No sales made, but two parties of Skatchans arrived this evening with about 40 skins. Have been reading Cooper on Mortification & Tetanus during afternoon & am now going to peruse Cowper. 11—instead thereof have been listening to M. who read aloud a portion of Blair's dissertation on the authenticity of the Poems of Ossian, his humorous account of the exploits of the Irish Fingalians—as sung by the bards of Erin who commit strange anachronisms. Wednesday, June 19: — AM. Pierre passed a restless night, but since 3 a.m. has slept tolerably well & now feels limb easier. Perspired profusely during night T. White moist. Feels an appetite for breakfast. P. 76 full & soft—on removing flannels can see that there is an abundant discharge of pus chiefly from posterior ed. of wound. Quinae Sulph: gr x, Acid: Sulph: Dil: 1 oz. ter in die. Aq: fortis—4 oz. ft. Solut: Cij: Cap 1 oz. 5 P.M. Removed dressings. Integuments around ancle & lower 3rd of leg have still a doughy feel and are somewhat inflamed. A copious discharge of good pus from proximal 3 rd of wound partly from beneath the sloughing tendon which has now almost separated. More anteriorly granulations have risen nearly to a level with lips of wound Integuments on dorsum of foot less swollen, but of red colour. Has complained of thirst during afternoon. T. cleaner. Has passed a natural stool of good colour & consistence. To have toast & water for drink. Continue fomentations— 8 P.M. Begins to perspire—limb comparatively easy—Thirsty. Up at 4 & with rifle on shoulder traversed plain till nearly 7, without meeting any game, the grass wet with dew, farm looks well, two bushels of pease were sown yesterday & today some indian corn is to be put in the ground— after breakfast witnessed the trade with the Scatchans who bartered 40 excellent beavers' skins. The skins amounting to upwards of 300 beaver have been made up into packs to be carried off by M. who starts for the Columbia on Friday. The Indian whom we at the Cowlitz entrusted with our dispatches for F.V. arrived tonight, having delivered them safely-—he mentioned that G. had gone to the Wallamatte with a party for the purpose of curing salmon and that the Ganymede had passed Cape Disappointment on her S 207 ] way to the northern establishments some time ago. Have been receiving instructions from M. how affairs are to be conducted after his departure— all the entries of disbursements & returns whether for Furs, Provisions, or necessaries for the establishment from the store are to be made into a Jotter, and a journal kept of all transactions. Thursday, June 20: Pierre slept well, feels better today — wound looks well—granulations in anterior portion nearly on a level with the lips of wound. Busy all day writing an official & private letter to Mr. McLoughlin, also one to Gairdner, giving him a brief account of my adventures. Receiving further instructions from M. The people are at present building a frame house for their own accommodation, at the south end of the store, between it and Pierre's shed—the space in front of both houses is to be picketed in, only leaving sufficient room for a path between stockades & high water mark—a line of stakes running along the foot of the bank from the corners of each is to connect the houses behind, and another row extending from the front corners of houses to the anterior range of pickets will complete an inclosure comprehending all the space between & in front of houses to the pathway which must be left. There is to be a gate in the middle of front line. Hay is to be prepared as winter provender for the cattle. Friday, June 21: Up early. Mr. Macdonald started after breakfast, having 3 horses loaded with beaver packs. Accompanied him for 3 miles on the prairie, we settled that I should send a man to Fort Vancouver early in Septr. with my dispatches for the Ganymede, & of course a letter to Mr. McLoughlin. Just as we parted, Nimrod who had followed disappeared, & in returning made diligent search for him without success. Saw only two plants in flower not already gathered. Fired four times & killed three birds— a blue jay & two small pigeons, as they are called, of which have given one, much destroyed to Pierre & shall skin the others. Returned about 3, and in the evg. traded two skins. Nimrod made his appearance about 10, much fatigued. Started a partridge with her brood near the Muskeg, some of the covey took to flight & mother with trailing wings & her tail spread out like a fan, rushed towards me at first but soon flew to a neighbouring tree. Several large pigeons in the same place but not within shot. Saturday, June 22: Up at 6—traded some beaver from Payallipeu Indians before breakfast. Engaged all the forenoon in arranging goods in store, after dinner went up to farm. Returned along the banks of Coe which after passing the farm, flows in a steep narrow ravine, abounding in tall pines & cedars and a thick underwood of oak, hazel & briar, obstruct all passage. Tore my way through & crossed river near its mouth by a log bridge—the north bank 208 fpr * "1 about halfway up to farm affords an easy passage to prairie by being hollowed into a narrow gully and a horse road to this pass, formed along the margin of stream, would considerably shorten the walk to the farm, & render the carriage of goods a matter of less difficulty. Must ascend the bed of stream as far as the gully to observe the nature of its northern margin. Sunday, June 23: Read Cowper's Poem on Conversation in the forenoon and two chapters in St. John's Gospel. Got out Paley, but read little. Pierre continues to improve. Dressed wound with adhesive strap. After dinner, accompanied by Brown & McKay two of the servants, rode over to the Nusqually River to see if a barrier across path would be an effectual obstacle to the oxen in their attempting to descend the steep bank. Saw that it would be useless. Had a splendid view of Mt. Rainier, whose gelid vesture it was most refreshing to behold—from the sultry hollows of prairie ascended the bank of the deep valley forming the bed of R. & found it generally steep, but still not impassable for the oxen. They have latterly been very troublesome, requiring the almost constant attendance of a man to prevent their crossing river on their return to T.W. (?) which they attempt daily. Rode a fine bay with green blanket as saddle & no stirrups. Recollected as I scampered along that the past week was the second anniversary of my trip to the Trosachs, last year at this time I was officiating for a few days at the Cholera Hospital & this year am Commander of a trading post in a remoie corner of the New World with only a force of six effective men in the midst of treacherous, bloodthirsty savages, with whom murder is familiar. Nevertheless we are well armed, and I hope resolute and with Gods blessing apprehend no danger. Am anxious to have the people's house finished as they are at present living in tents & sheds, very much exposed to attack or depra- dation. The indians are divided into many petty factions who are continually embroiled in bloody quarrels & therefore less likely to form plots. Monday, June 24: Up early—traded 10 skins before breakfast from a brother of the loquacious Babyar's, who annoyed me all yesterday with importunities for presents, before commencing the barter. Looked over & made notes on plants during forenoon, after dinner visited farm—the potatoes are hoed, the turnips thinned and all the other beds in the garden weeded. The oxen have been all fastened to one yoke & turned out to pasture this mg. which has prevented their crossing the Coe. Traded a saddle with all the accoutrements from a young Indian, for a pair of old trowsers (claret coir.). In the afternoon had some desultory reading in Wilson's Ornithology. Had a partition erected bisecting storeroom of which one apartment is appropriated for my bedroom. Tuesday, June 25: No trade. Finished Cowper on Retirement & began [ 209 ] the Task. Am much pleased with his sentiments, but find alas that his lash frequently strikes home. Went on, arranging plants, but felt very indolent & ennuye. In the afternoon a young horseman arrived from Cowlitz with the intelligence that Mr. McLouglin, Mr. Macdonald & a large party on horse and foot are within a day's journey of Nusqually. Making the necessary deductions for exaggeration, it is not improbable that these gentlemen with a few attendants are journeying thither. I hope Mr. Douglas the botanist accompanies them. Have begun making a vocabulary of the Chenooke gibberish, by which we communicate with the indians—it is a vile compound of English, French, American & the Chenooke dialect. Pierre progressively improves. Applied a bandage to foot yesterday & continue it. Have written today & yesty. with a heron's quill—my stock of dressed quills being at a very low ebb. Wednesday, June 26: Up early & had every thing put in applepie order for the inspection of Govr. Visited the farm after breakfast, & exhorted the lazy Bourgeois to put his garden in good trim. All day on the tiptoe of expectation but my eyes were not greeted with a sight of the cavalcade descending the hill, through the wood. I understand that our informant did not see the party, but heard the report from another Indian, this very materially invalidates his testimony & renders it probable that the whole is a fabrication. A Party of Klolums in a large war canoe, arrived with a few skins. Thursday, June Z7: At noon Chief Trader Heron arrived, followed by a large squad of Portage Indians all mounted. He is to assume the charge here. He met Mr. McD. at the Cowlitz & brought me from that Gent: the following epistle "Sir, This will be handed you by Mr. C. F. Heron, who, of course will relieve you of your charge at Nusqually, and as your professional attendance was the primary object of your being detained there, solely on my responsibility and contrary to your instructions from Mr. C. G. McLoughlin, I have to acquaint you that, if you remain beyond that time you conceive your patient fairly in the way of recovery, it will be on Mr. Heron's authority. Having lost your passage in the Vancouver, of course to return to the Columbia when disengaged is the plan to be adopted". Signed Archd. McDonald. On being asked by Mr. H. I answered that I could leave my patient in 8 or 10 days, but on reconsideration, think, that if the limb is properly bandaged, any careful & neathanded person might take charge in a day or two, as the man's health is now good, & nature active in the work of granulation, and incipient cicatrization. Going by the portage to the Columbia where perhaps I may remain all winter, with only the scanty supply of articles conveyable by land, is not at all desirable, but that must not in the [210] BBB^ least bias the answer returned to Mr. H. regarding my patient. He seems averse to my departure, but some other ground must be found for my detention, than the state of P's foot, which looked better today altho from the scarcity of adhesive plaster I postponed dressing it till tomorrow, merely changing the bandage. Mr. H. is a native of the N. of Ireland, is tall & stout & in his countenance bears a striking resemblance to my father, only his features are rather smaller—he bears no good will to Macdonald, who, he thinks has ousted him out of comfortable quarters at Colville Ft. on the Columbia and seems greatly disappointed with this place. Friday, June 28: After breakfast I acquainted Mr. H that I did not think my attendance on Pierre would be absolutely required for another week, he desired me to address a note to him, stating the period at which I could depart, which he would forward to Mr. McL. with his own motives for detaining me. He mentioned his own incapability of attending to the wound in the event of my going. Mr. H. set out after breakfast in a canoe with six men to explore the country adjoining the Shoots River at the head or extremity of the Sound & by his desire I have been occupied in surveying the north bank of Coe and the bed of the stream, which I traversed from the gulley downwards. In the evening have been writing a report of my proceedings, which I shall insert in journal, when finished. Mr. H. has got the remaining moiety of store converted into a bedroom, the goods being chiefly removed to the shop. Tonight the apartment is tenanted by his & Pierre's wife. Rendall keeps Pierre company—Brown & McKie are at the farm house and I am "left alone in my glory" having given even my dog as a protection to Rendall who is in great dread of indians & it must be said the temptation tonight, is great, only one person in the store & another in a defenceless shed. In my room are five loaded guns in one corner. Rifle, Gun & Pistols loaded at the head of bed. Saturday, June 29: Mr. Heron returned about 9 this morning to breakfast. Afterwards we mounted the north bank of Coe by the path & were occupied nearly all day in collecting specimens of the soil at every hundred yards length from the summit of bank to the ploughed land. H. & I on horseback. While thus engaged our three attendants McKie, Brown & Peter Tahi, the islander, felt the earth under them shake violently at least twice. Brown first exclaimed, & seemed much alarmed—He & McKie were on their knees at the time & felt violently lifted up, the sensations of Peter I could not ascertain, Mr. H. & I did not perceive anything remarkable— this happened at 20 minutes from 2 by Rendall's watch, which is not far wrong. On returning to the house we learn't that the shock had been felt [211] there, the boards in the floor of house rattling together. The Indians were much struck & said "The Chief's (Heron's) medicine is strong, he has gone up the hill to shake the grounds". In some quarter of the globe, perhaps the Almighty has wrought some dire devastations by earthquake, one of the most powerful & calamitous instruments of chastisement employed against Mankind. The steep & broken faces to Eastward of the islands in the sound render it probable, that they have been severed from the main shore by an earthquake. Owing to the drought the prairie, sterile at best, appeared to great disadvantage. The grass so dry as to kindle by a spark from a piece of wood used in lighting a tobacco pipe. It burn't to a considerable extent, from beyond ploughed field to banks of Coe & was not extinguished, when we came away. Boursho received from the heavy fist of Heron the punishment Macdonald wished me to inflict. H. found fault with him about the manner in which the potatoes were harrowed, dismounting pommelled the poor wretch heartily on the field & then chased him at a hard canter through the burning & smoking plain to the house, where on his knees Bourshow begged pardon for past offenses & made earnest promises of amendment. H. is so much dissatisfied with this place as to have determined on removing every thing to the Shoot's River, where he is to form an establishment. Sunday, June 30: F. Heron Esq. Sir, You having decided on my remaining in this quarter "until Pierre Charles can be reported safe & sound" and requested me to state when that desirable event is likely to happen, I have to inform you, that if the wound on his foot continues to heal as it has for the past week it will in three or four weeks be completely cicatrized & no longer require any applications. W F T. Wrote the foregoing epistle for Mr Heron regarding Pierre. This has been a day of bustle—H. with the precipitation of a retreating general, has at once commenced the work of flitting—the provisions were despatched in 3 large canoes, manned by Indians and under Ouvrie's charge. He embarked nearly all the goods in a leaky boat, which till yesterday lay at the Shoots, and started about 2 for that place, taking also a raft of boards, wherewith to make a shed for the reception of goods, but this he was obliged to send back before proceeding far. Bourshow was sent with the oxen overland & Rendall has been left with me. As soon as the boat returns I am to follow H. with the remaining articles. Today I sent my black trunk, hingham bucket, & 3 reams brown paper—& in the afternoon, have been writing report of examination of Coe & arranging samples of soil. Am now going to read the Bible. Monday, July 1: Making preparations to follow Mr. Heron. Got a [212] lengthy vocabulary of the language of this place from one of the natives- it is much more copious & also more guttural than the Gibberish. Pierre had a sudden attack of vertigo & tendency to delirium this after noon, the cause of which I am at a loss to discover—his foot is cicatrizing well, i o P.M. A little while ago an Indian came to my parchment window; saying "six pesaioux chacoo". "Friend the whites are coming"—on going out I heard a diabolical noise on the path leading up the bank—a concerto made up of the clanging of empty kettles, cracking of branches & curses in French both loud & deep. Thought I recognized the voice as Bourshow and anon, he appeared with the tale that soil was bad at the Shoots & Mr. H. would be here in the mg. with all the fleet. Tuesday, July z: About 7 the boat and canoes hove in sight but on arrival, learn't by a note from Mr. H. that he had found a suitable place, on this side the Shoots and that he wished me to load the boat with the remaining goods soon as possible, and join him. Started about 2, and after a tedious pull, arrived at his encampment about 10. It was close to the sea at the base of a steep bank, on the face of which the goods were piled, by way of security as the tide had half filled the tent. The proposed site of the Establishment, was on the opposite side of a small streamlet close by, where the bank was level & the soil rich & clayey, but the plain not within five miles of the shore—abundance of oysters within 100 yards of the beach, no small recommendation. Agreed that I should return to Nusqually tomorrow, after visiting the Shoots before breakfast, and bring up Pierre & the remaining articles. Had bed laid on the beach under the shade of a wide spreading Planetree with my feet on high water mark. Wednesday, July 3: Slept soundly. Up before sunrise, had just commenced to remove goods to opposite shore of streamlet, when an express canoe arrived from Nusqually to say that the Klalum Chiefs had arrived with an abundance of beaver but would not come further. H. then determined to remove the goods back & to keep the Nusqually establishment until he had consulted personally or by letter with Dr McL & accordingly commenced loading the canoe while I set out in the canoe about 5 & arrived at 10. H. arrived about 12, but no trade today. In the evening we surveyed the south bank of the Coe, and a space of 200 feet has been marked out to be cleared, indians have been hired to clear away the brushwood along the bank from Coe to the present store & for about 100 yards up from base. The boat & canoes were dispatched to bring down the remaining articles & I suppose a Fort shall be formed here yet. There are about 18 Klalums, robust, fierce looking burly fellows well armed—the chiefs have been gam- [ 213] bling all day with Chiatsasa & plucked him clean of all his blankets. There is also a skalatchet chief, who from dressing in European style & sporting bushy whiskers, is styled "The Frenchman". It was discovered by accident tonight, that he understood the Spokan language which H's wife speaks. H. took the opportunity of haranguing them on their miserable & wretched condition and the numberless advantages which would accrue to them, from being at peace with each other, & obeying the dictates of our blessed religion which he at the same time explained as simply as possible & was listened to with breathless attention by old & young. The indians afterwards formed a large semicircle round a fire at N. end of store, and an animated dialogue was kept up for more than an hour between the Frenchman & Chiatsasa and a simultaneous hum of approbation followed every pause. Just as we were going to bed, perhaps about 10V2, the religious dance was performed in nearly the same manner as at Fort Vancouver—the Frenchman being Master of the Ceremonies—after dancing in a circle, all dropped except him & Chiatsase, and they repeated a short chaunt when the latter also squatted down and the Frenchman kneeling uttered a prayer which terminated the affair. Am glad to see that H. takes an interest in ameliorating the condition of the poor Indians, and shall cordially assist. H. says he has greatly civilized the Indians about Fort Colville so much, that in their disputes they refer to him as an umpire, the Seventh day is kept holy, and they travel any distance without even a knife as a weapon of defence. Here the Indian never parts with his knife, clutched in his right hand, it is either concealed under his blanket or employed in scratching his chin or hands and legs ■and to go any length from home without a musket is never dream't of by those who possess the article. Thursday, July 4: The 18th anniversary of the marriage of A. T. with M.A.D.B. and how widely apart today are the principals & witnesses of that illstarred match. Europe, Asia & America contain the three persons most interested, and the chances are against their ever meeting together again in this uncertain world. Wish I had seen M.A.T. before her departure for India & if I knew her address, perhaps would write her. Traded 58 beaver from the Klalums. Got a vocabulary of the language from the principal chief Lughkinum, an avaricious old sinner, very troublesome. The boat arrived with every thing safe & an enclosure running between the corners of the two houses has been formed, within which the men sleep. H. has fitted up for himself the house intended for the people, one apartment as a mess room, the smaller a bedroom, so we are now in a manner self contained. Friday, July 5: Roused about 3 am to trade with the Klalums, who had [ 214 ] still 20 fine skins to dispose of. Presented Lughkinum with a capot and thereafter things went on smoothly. The Princess Charlotte the only surviving child of old King Concomly arrived in the afternoon with her consort and train. As a concubine she has made the round of many of the gentlemen & was noted on both sides the mountains, for her personal charms & powerfully fascinating manners, no person within the sphere of her attractions, being capable of resisting. She is the best looking native I have seen, about the middle size, a dark brunette, with a large dark languishing eye, pearly teeth & finely formed limbs & there is a native grace in all her actions. While living with the whites she was looked on as a personage of importance & possessing great influence among the Indians, but her passion for intoxication, and extravagance, made her a troublesome inmate of the Fort & a resolution was passed never again to receive her. She is now wedded to a petty Portage Chief, who, jealous as Othello bangs her frequently with a paddle or the butt end of a musket. Sennatea the husband has got some skins to trade. Babyar or Uschotts also came this afternoon with beaver. Saturday, July 6: Traded with the Princess in the forenoon & she departed highly satisfied with the attention shown her by Mr. Heron. Sennatea dogged her like a shadow. Babyar and another brother traded in the afternoon & were very troublesome. He wanted more than the regular price for his three last & best beaver & finding his importunities unavailing, at a moment when I was left alone with him, threw his blankets over the counter & rushed into the back room to take back his skins. Collared and bundled him out— he went to the door and called in his people who were lurking round the house, I, now backed by Rendall stood firm, at same time endeavouring by soft words to pacify the savage, which was affected & he at once gave the beaver at the usual barter, his brother who shortly before had gone out in dudgeon now traded without trouble—we taking the precaution of locking them in—our weakness is apparent to the rascals & they take advantage of it. Sunday, July 7: Have been sitting all day with Mr. Heron. He as well as McD proposes to quit the service & his only difficulty is regarding the most eligible place of retirement. Monday, July 8: Ouvrie having frequently talked about a spot favorable for an establishment about 20 miles to N. of Nusqually on the same side of the Sound—it has been agreed that I am to start this evening accompanied by Ouvrie & five or six Indians in canoe to examine the place, & to return if possible tomorrow night. Am to meet horses at the Payallipaw River & ride home thence by the plain. In the evening have been surveying the bank with Mr. Heron. On the face towards creek it is very steep, forms a round 0215] high bluff gradually falling away to S. Discovered a flat, pretty clear space just behind store, where Mr. H. seems inclined to erect the Fort. 8V2 The canoe is ready, manned by Ouvrie, Chiatsasa & 4 Indians. Am about to start. Tuesday, July 9: Departed from Nusqually about 9 P.M. & wrapped up in Cloak & green blanket, courted the approach of the drowsy God but getting into a pleasing train of thought, about friends & native land soon lost the inclination. The night was cloudless & the starry host resplendent. Miss many of my old acquaintances from the cerulean concave, orion, aldebaran Columbe &c. Ouvrie struck up a melancholy chaunt regarding the wars of the H.B.C. & N.W.C. & the murder of Govr. Semple & party by the half- breed hunters of the N.W.C.—what with singing & encouraging the Indians he kept up a ceaseless din. Called at every lodge seen generally adding a man to our number. Slept towards morning & awoke by Ouvrie at 4 as we passed the Payallipa bay & saw the "land of promise" about 6 miles ahead where we arrived about 6 & were engaged in its examination till 9. Landed on a flat, about Va mile long & from 100 to 160 paces long, of excellent soil but overrun by the sea in some parts—crossed a bay about a mile in breadth, came to another such flat of inferior soil, & after crossing bay at least 2 miles broad, landed on the prairion so much admired by Mr. Anance & Ouvrie, it was about a mile in length & from 100 to 150 yards in extent, raised about 30 feet above the sea level, towards which it presented a steep clayey bank, surface flat & dotted with tall pines, but soil composed almost entirely of sand. Its breadth was measured from the base of the steep wooded bank which lines the coast throughout, to the margin of the sea. At its northern extremity, the coast is indented with a bay, 5 or 6 miles wide & perhaps 3 long, into which Ouvrie's River flows— described by him as equal in size to the Cowlitz. On the opposite shore of this bay, was pointed out to me, the countries of Sannahomish, Kaatchet, & Skalatchet tribes lying in the above order, from the mouth of Ouvrie's River to the point marking the extremity of Bay. The south side of bay & River is inhabited by the Tuamish indians, of whom we saw several parties along the coast, miserably poor and destitute of firearms. The opposite coast of sound is possessed by the warlike Soquamish with whose chief T Zallicum, we are on friendly terms. A Fort well garrisoned would answer well as a trading post on the prairie where we stood—it would have the advantage of a fine prospect down the Sound, & of proximity to the Indians, but these would compensate for an unproductive soil & the inconvenience of going at least Vz a mile for a supply of water. Breakfasted on parboiled pease [216] eaten with a shell out of a pot lid. Embarked about 9V2—indians lazy & sleepy. Passed between McD. peninsula & the mainland, made a portage of about 100 yards, during which I killed a fine partridge. Now in company with a petty Soquamish chief, whose canoe was manned by his 7 stout sons arrived at the head of the Payallipaw Bay about 6 P.M. Mt. Rainier did not seem above 15 miles from the shore—the intervening country being a series of low undulating wooded hills, with the verdant & many tinted banks of the River in the foreground. The woods after the showers having a fresh & very luxuriant appearance. Not finding the horses at the appointed place, taking Ouvrie and a guide I set out on foot to reach the prairie. Travelled about 3 miles through a wood, came to the dry & sterile prairie at the gloaming. Horribly pestered with mosquitoes & found that their annoying effects had not been exaggerated. Encamped under a wide spreading pine. Ouvrie & the guide under one blanket began to snore. Being obliged to keep head completely covered to avoid the moquoitoes who kept up a loud humming outside, I perspired profusely & lay awake for several hours very uncomfortable. Wednesday, July 10: Up at 3. After walking a mile, still annoyed by our winged assailants came to a broad marsh, where found excellent water, soon after, the shouts of guide, brought from a neighbouring lodge, a boy with our horses. Mounted & rode on before lost the way in the broad prairie intersected by numberless paths came to a beautiful lake, about 5 miles long & from Va to 1 mile broad—its steep banks adorned with trees of variegated hues, attempted to cross the eastern margin of lake, but the water too deep — saw shoals of fish the size of a herring—with great difficulty led the horse through the tangled copse on the bank & rode due S. by compass until at the source of Coe. While riding along, came on three deer grazing in a hollow of plain. They were within rifle shot, but started off full trot on seeing me. Arrived at Nusqually about 8V2 & of course reported unfavorably to Mr. H. regarding the object of my voyage. In the afternoon traded 10 skins from the Soquamish youths seen yesterday. Have begun to read Paris on Diet. Heron whom the wet weather has affected with ennui, was still more dispirited tonight by a letter from Mr. McL directing him to send 3 of the men Bourgeau, Hiria & Billy to the Fort immediately, & that I should depart thither, when my medical attendance can be dispensed with. I reed, a kind tho' brief note from Mr. McL. Must commence tomorrow to write letters for home. Thursday, July 11: Today have been occupied in looking over letters, reading journal since arrival in the country &c. Mr. H informs me that I [217] am likely to receive letters by the Spring Express which leaves London early in March & arrives (by Montreal) at Hudsons Bay before the Brigade sets out for the Columbia. I directed my friends to have their letters in London about the middle of February. Pierre has complained much today of pain in ancle joint. Fomentations have given relief & he has had a purgative & been taking T. of Antimony in nauseating doses. Friday, July 12: Pierre better, but in the forenoon still felt pain in the extremity of tibia near the Maleolus Int: wound looks well, but does not heal so rapidly as it wd. if dressed with adhesive strap instead of grease, which necessity obliges me to resort to as an unguent. Went out to botanize, attended by a young Indian as vasculum bearer. Shot a duck on the small lake & winged two others, the boy swam for the bird killed. Passed thro' the marsh—there is an extent of many acres dry & covered with luxuriant grass. Have induced Heron to promise examining it tomorrow. Saturday, July 13: Started after breakfast for the Plain on horse-back. Entered the marsh at several places. It borders the Coe but of an irregular breadth, from the origin of stream 3 or 4 miles northward of Farmhouse & terminates Vz a mile above latter place. At Southern extremity there is an area of from forty to 50 acres free from wood. In this area, besides smaller patches—there are two spots each estimated at 6 acres, dry for more than two feet beneath surface, indeed no water, nor trees could be found in some points and thickly covered with luxuriant grass two feet or more in height. The rest of surface was laid out in patches of willow rushes & moss— of diversified hues & the stream 20 yards broad wound a devious & tardy course through the verdant amphitheatre. Started a fawn twice. Returned home about 4 & had a refreshing bath before dinner. Evg. spent in reading Paris & chatting with H. Sunday, July 14: Have been sitting with Heron all day—reading Paris & chatting, he has resolved to send Ouvrie to Ft. Langley to procure a supply of tools & inform Mr Yale that he is to remain there this winter. Rendall is to go also & will be replaced here by Wascum, who is better fitted for the work to be carried on. Vivette set out on his return to Ft. V. this mg. attended by Billy, a Polynesian. Tsallicum & a party of Soquamish arrived in the afternoon. Monday, July 15: Had a consultation lastnight about building the Fort on the border of prairie instead of, in the wood & settled, that I should examine today, if a tolerably good track could be made from present site to the creek. Failing in perceiving any practicable track, measured out 100 yards, square, on border of plain, about 200 yards from the small lake & close to where the path emerges from the wood. On H's being informed of [2!8] this, he determined on erecting a house of (?) on the spot & removing everything thither immediately. The men commenced building & forthwith 23 Indians, Soquamish, Poyallipas &c were employed to carry up the goods & now at 8 P.M. the goods are nearly gone — I am sitting in the dismantled store with Rendall, preparing to turn in, a paint besmeared beauty outside, is using all her blandishments to obtain admission, but this is truly no temptation, and if never more strongly assailed I shall remain virtuous during my stay in this country without assuming any merit for self control. Tuesday, July 16: Got every thing up the hill before breakfast, had Pierre carried by four men & he has not suffered from it. Busy all day, trading with Soquamish & others—the former are stout, burly fellows like the Klalums. Gave each of the labourers 10 charges Ammunition & 8 inches tobacco—our house looks eastward, is 48 feet by 20 & divided into 3 great apartments—one for H., one store & one people—a square of 10 feet has been taken off the store for my bedroom & like H's made very comfortable, carpeted with mats, & tapestried with red Baize, which is necessary, as the partitions are made with round posts. Am not likely to enjoy it long, as H. tonight proposed that I should go to Ft. Langley, giving me the choice to remain & that he should go. Agreed to go & am to be accompanied by Chihalucum & a party, besides 5 of our people. As we may perhaps have a brush with the sanguinary Youghiltas shall take care to be well supplied with firearms. Wednesday, July 17: Still at Nusqually. H. having determined this mg. to send only Ouvrie, & the two men who are to remain—when Chihalucum understood that neither of the chiefs were to accompany him, he declined going & returned home this eve.—so the expedition must be abandoned for the present. The indians performed their religious dance in the afternoon. Chihalucum explaining to an audience of from 20 to 30, some of the commandments, most applicable to their state, which we endeavoured to make him comprehend yesterday. Thursday, July 18: Ouvrie & the men volunteering to go alone, were after breakfast dispatched for Fort Langley. Busy all day, trading & getting store & bedroom in order. A Party of the Chechalis arrived in the forenoon & also one of the Sinuamish—the former chief courted my alliance for his daughter, had another offer of the same kind from Chiatzasan & one yesterday from the Nusqually R. Chief of his sister, but respectfully declined them all, declaring it improper for a physician, to have unlawful dealings with the fair sex. Visited the dismantled store—the indians now reside in the vacated houses of Mr. Heron & Pierre. [ 219 ] Friday, July 19: Finished trade this mg. with the Sannahomish— bearer of H's letter to Ft. Langley, the Indian arrived lastnight & stated that he had given the letter to the Skalatchets, where Ouvrie will probably find it. Have transplanted the cabbages, onions, and indian corn to a fertile spot on the border of the small lake which is in future to constitute the kitchen garden. The trading goods in greatest request blankets, strouds and baize are expended so barter is at an end for the present. Saturday, July 20: Have been arranging & making notes on plants this afternoon. Must as soon as that task is finished set about letterwriting. There have been several arrivals this afternoon. Scetlam the Kaatchet chief having made peace with Chiatzasan by a present of two guns, was permitted to visit us & says he has 27 beaver, how we are to trade them I know not. Sunday, July 21: Large bands of Indians loitering about, but no religious ceremony performed. Began the Acts. Read Paley's Theology in the forenoon, and in the evg. had a delightful stroll over the plain—the weather is now very serene. Monday, July 22: Busy trading all day & succeeded in getting all the skins. Have made over to the Company 1 Bag No 1 shot, $Va Gro, lacqd Watch Chain slides valued at 6/-gro, 1 gro 11/12 Gilt Buttons. To Mr. H. for which am to receive an order on the Co. 2 doz steel Waist Clasps, 1 doz Gilt Waist Clasps, 1 doz Hat Buckles, 1 gro Slides 6/- — 1 doz. Hooks & Eyes, 3 steel buckles, 2 chains. These formed pt. of a parcel made up for me by Alick of articles unsaleable in my father's warehouse, which Dr Scouler informed me would be useful in trading curiosities from the Indians, but I find that Ammunition is esteemed here, more than trinkets or bijouterie of any kind & is moreover much cheaper, and am therefore glad to get rid of my stock at any price, rather than be lumbered with it. Tuesday, July 23: Arranged & numbered plants to correspond with a list made out. They amount to about 60 species, but owing to the unsettled life led this summer, I have been unable to give to Botany the attention I wished & my collection is scarcely worth sending home. P. Charles has been employed in putting a back sight on my gun, and arranging rifle, which he tried & made some excellent shots with, hitting the bull's eye once. This evening have been looking over Moore's Irish Melodies belonging to Heron, who is a passionate admirer of his countryman—have met with several songs which shall copy. Wednesday, July 24: As I am not likely to be more than 10 days or a fortnight here, I must, in the meantime get some of my home letters written, shall leave my father's, Uncles J. & A. & Hooker's till the last & write Aunt Fraser's, Dr. Scouler's, Walker's, & Murray's at present. Began [ 220] Walker's epistle. Copied several Poems from Melodies into Common Place book. Now going to turn in. Heavy showers during day. Thursday, July 25: Busy trading with a party of Kalums but did not obtain all their skins. In the evg. reading over journal & writing Walker. Friday, July z6: Trading & writing in the forenoon. Visited the Nusqually R. in a small canoe with two indians in the afternoon. I shd. think the meadow land on both sides wd. amount to 5 or 600 acres at least and in this extent, many spots are arable. The grass is coarse and thickly mixed with a species of wirey slender rush. Crossed meadow on this side of river by an indian path, which in some places was soft & muddy. Met in the extent of a mile, one brackish pool about 10 feet in diameter—at S.W. corner of meadow the path crosses a deep, sluggish stream about 12 feet broad, flowing out of the vale of Nusqually, but unconnected with the R. probably formed by springs of which I have seen several gushing out of the northern bank of valley. The path then ascends the steep clayey bank & after a winding & tedious course through woods, emerges on the plain about two miles from the House. In passing through the wood found the ripe fruit of the Galtheria Shallon it seems to have been intended by Providence, as a staple article of food, neither cloying the appetite by its lusciousness nor dissatisfying by insipidity. Arrived at home about sunset, the path for the first mile was unusually void of stones & soil seemed equal in fertility to the best land nearer the house. The whole tract from the house to the N.R. is superior to any of equal extent on the other side of Coe. By the desire of my attendant the son of Chiatzasan, explained to him the leading points of religion. Saturday, July 27: Hot & sultry. A party of Klalums arrived yesterday & a large band of Thuano Indians, who have come, they say, to keep Sunday here. The Thuano inhabit the opposite shore of Sound & were till today confounded by me with the Sumamish who live at Ouvrie's River. Have been pestered all day by fellows trading rats & chevreuil skins, singly, coming every Vz hour. We have no goods to trade their large skins, & they strive hard to make the most of the small ones. Sunday, July 28: Today the indians assembled in front of the house to the number of 70, or 80 male & female. With Brown, as interpreter who spoke in Chenook. H & I explained to them the creation of the world, the reason why Christians & Jews abstained from work on Sunday & had got as far as the Deluge in the Sacred History when we were requested to stop & the indians could not comprehend things clearly. The Chinook is such a miserable medium of communication, that very few ideas can be expressed in [221] it. The savages seem anxious for instruction & with a good interpreter, could be induced to alter for the better their conduct. They afterwards danced the Samanowash, in a large circle, the women & boys keeping together. Monday, July 29: Trading & chatting with Heron in the intervals all day. In the evening had a pleasant stroll & from a thinly wooded point of the bank a splendid view of the Sound to its upper extremity reflecting brightly the rays of the sun, just sinking behind Mt. Olympus. Tuesday July 30: News brought today of Vivet being at the Chute, with six horses loaded, a canoe was dispatched to bring the blankets thence & two indians to make a circuit of the Sound & inform the different tribes that goods have arrived & that they must come to trade immedy. as H & I are to set out for F.V. soon, after which no goods will be given out till one of us returns—there is no saying what the instructions may be in Mr. McL's letter, however, whether I am to remain here, or go to F.V. is immaterial to me as in either case it is probable my winter quarters will be at Millbank or Nass R. Chatting with H. about the comparative merits of the Wallamatte & Red River the former seems the most eligible. He thinks it likely that when the Coys licence expires, the new arrangements will not be so favorable as respects the winterers, as the present are, but conjectures at so distant a period must be very vague. 11 PM Vivet arrived half an hour ago & brought instructions that I should remain here for the present also a long letter from Gairdner of which more anon. No earthquake felt at Ft. V. Wednesday, July 31: Engaged today in packing beaver &c. to be dispatched by Vivet & tomorrow will be occupied in the same way, however, my constant attendance is unnecessary. In the afternoon, prepared the skin of large owl shot yesterday evening. It belongs I think to the sub genus Ulula of Cuvier & is a tolerably perfect specimen. Have received a tolerable supply from Ft. Vancouver—300 blankets, besides rings, wire & some Carpenter's tools. Thursday, August 1: As I am likely to remain here for a month at all events must dispose of it to the best advantage. Tomorrow or next day, shall remove to the men's apartment, & once there, endeavour to follow a plan in the allotment of my leisure hours—there must be no more procrastination respecting home correspondence which is now the first consideration & if from this duty an hour or two daily can be spared for reading I will felicitate myself on being happily situated. In the evg. Ouvrie arrived, accompanied by Annawaskum & an Iroquois, named Louis Sakara, both good Axemen, some tools, rings, beads &c have been sent and it is hoped [222] that nothing more will be expected except some boards, provisions & a pitsaw by the vessel. The Vancouver left Point Robertson the 23rd June making a satisfactory passage so far. I hope she will return here in time to carry my despatches to Vancr. before the Ganymede sails. The Frenchman Babyar, some minor chiefs & numerous canaille followed in Ouvrie's train & have encamped on the plain. Friday, August 2: Busy with Babyar and his train. The old rascal was more manageable than formerly. Vivet employed in dusting the beaver which amount to 362 large & small. Ouvrie has brought a very seasonable supply of carrots, turnips & onions from Fraser's River, our crop is a complete failure, carrots the size of a goose quill. Saturday, August 3. Wrote G. Kept constantly on the move by the presence of the Indians. In the evening about 200 old & young Soquamish, Thuano Poyallip & Sinuamish arrived, "Mamonk Sunday" as they express it. They are now haranguing each other & a few are performing the Samanowash. Vivet departed in the afternoon accompanied by Brown who has been sent for some milch cows. Sunday, August 4: Great doings. Mr. H. got Watskalatchet, Chil< mlucum, Babyar & Sialah (a brawny Soquamish with a roman countenance & black curly hair, the handsomest Indian I have seen) into his room with Lachalet as interpreter and told them to confess to him all their evil actions beginning with the murders & next the thefts. Chilialucum began & confessed having murdered four men, but pleaded guiltless of any other crime. Watskalatchet none. Lachalet killed the murderer of his uncle & a slave of the former chief's. Scaldh in his youth slew a great chief & stole a fathom of very fine payaquas from the Klalum. Babyar, after coughing, blowing & humming frequently, declared himself guiltless of any evil action but recollecting himself shortly after said that he had killed 5 men & stolen their property, also stole two slaves. Chiatzaan being called in said he had for a long time been a physician & conductor of the religious ceremonies, that he had never done any harm, but afterwards acknowledged himself the murderer of five, (besides those killed by his medicines). The enormity of the crime of murder was then pointed out to the worthy aessemblage & they were told it was as contrary to the Almighty's express command—they all promised, never again to commit the action, but in self defence & by way of expressing it more strongly on their minds they were made to mark with a pen a sheet of paper on which their names were written. Afterwards the multitude outside received an address from Mr. H in which there was nothing objectionable & the Samanowash terminated [ 223 ] the ceremony. In the mg. Ouvrie hinted to the chiefs that if the logs composing the houses on beach & that on plain were removed hither it wd. afford much gratification to us—the canaille forthwith began & in the evening nearly completed the undertaking. Monday, August 5: Busy trading with Soquamish & Sinnamish in the forenoon & got 40 skins. Closed G's epistle & wrote a brief note to Mr Cowie requesting a small supply of quills, sealing wax & two penknives for myself. Ordered for medicine chest Jalap: 3 oz. Potass: Supect: 4 oz. Emplast Adhes: 1 yard Ungt Calam: 6 oz. Acid: Citric. Suggested to G. the propriety of ordering cupping glasses in making his requisition & requested him to demand for me two aneurism needles, one for the Carotid, the other of a size for the Radical. Procured a supply of quills by shooting a large crow at the beach, Had an agreeable walk in the evening—the sky at sunset had in a faint degree that lilac tint which adorns it so highly in the torrid zone. Tuesday, August 6: While absent at lake this morning a party of Claoset Indians from the straits of Juan De Fuca came to the House. They were headed by a youth who officiated formerly as scullion at Fort Langley where he received the familiar appellation of "Jack" but is now a man of note amongst his tribe & has brought 60 beaver to barter, having left he says? an equal number at home. He performed the voyage hither by great exertion in six days & has been prevented from coming sooner through fear of the Kaatchet & Sannahomish. Saw a great number of serpents similar to that examined at Columbia R. on the border of the lake—an Indian, on seeing me handle one was much alarmed. In the evening had a brisk ride to the Marsh, for a specimen of the clay there. Started two deer within musket shot. Wednesday, August 7: Traded about 170 furs, chiefly from Jack & his party. Jack whose native home is Ellacoom is a good looking boy of 15 or 16, dressed in a blue jacket & trowsers—his father who was a great trader was killed two years ago. Ouvrie is to be despatched in ten days for a further supply of blankets from Depot. Must send my letters by him. Ellecoom departed this evg. & is to bring by the vessel the other moiety of his beaver. Thursday, August 8: Engaged during the day & at night in writing to Walker. In the afternoon Lughkinum, Quinguastin & some other Klalum Chiefs arrived & in the evening have traded. Have given W. a rough sketch of the nature of my employments & of the business transacted at Ft. V. in the course of a year—the same description but more minute will answer for my father's, Uncles A & J's letters. Must fill up Dr Scouler's [ 224 ] with a long yarn about McKenzie's death &c Two geese seen in the evening winging a southerly course. Friday, August 9: Scribbling during forenoon. Some Klalum arrived during dinner & I have been occupied in trading with them since. From writing Walker my thoughts naturally ran with a melancholy pleasure to the many happy hours I have spent in his society, and what I look back on with most satisfaction are the evenings we spent together in reading Shakespeare and our delightful tour to Loch Katrine & the Trosachs. Have made enquiries about all my colleagues in the Cholera Hospital & desired to be remembered to those with whom W. corresponds. Saturday, August 10: Finished Walker's letter & began my father's. Shall give him an order on the HBC for £40 stg. of my salary, which shall be worded as follows—To the Govr. Depy. Govr. & Comm. of the HBC, London. Honble. Sirs Please pay on demand to Mr. Alexr. Tolmie of Glasgow the sum of Forty Pounds Sterling which place to my account. Mr. H. tells me this is the proper mode of addressing the Company. If my father does not require the money which I hope may be the case, shall propose to him to offer it to Uncle J. or Aunt M. if he thinks either of them stands in need of it. [Note in Margin; Have not done so]. Had a pleasant stroll in the gloaming — on returning heard that in my absence a row had taken place at the beach between Chiatzasan's people & the Klalum—Ouvrie being sent down to make peace, found both parties under arms—the Klalum who were most numerous & best accoutre'd accusing the Nusqually of foul play in gambling. Ouvrie being made umpire settled the affair peacably. It will be well for us if we can succeed in preventing Gaming here by prevailing on our visitors to encamp at the beach. Shall begin another book for tomorrow's journal. Sunday, August 11: Have been writing my father today a minute account of the nature of the H B C's service &c with the prospects held forth & the likelihood of advancement &c. This day last year I arrived at Inverness after a pleasant voyage of 3 days by steamer from Glasgow, and surprised Aunt Jane as she was preparing for church. Accompanied the family thither & heard an excellent sermon from Mr Clark. In the afternoon walked with Jamesina along the Fort George road and admired the beauty & comely attire of the pretty lasses returning from church. No indians on the ground except those residing at the beach — Klalum & Sannahomish departed at sunrise. Monday, August 12: Nearly finished my father's letter. A few straggling indians bartered for beaver. This evg. winged an owl of the same species as last. Have put it into house lately occupied by the men. It attacks a [225 ] dog fiercely making a noise by shutting its bill forcibly similar to the crackling of a spark in a briskly burning fire of wood. Mr. H. has again written Yale for supplies. Tuesday, August 13: This day last year at Lammas Market Campbelton the "squire of dames". I exchanged kindly greetings with many old friends, who were all eager to enquire about the then prevailing pestilence cholera. The screeching of the imprisoned owl caused all the inmates of our domicile to pass a restless & sleepless night. Have begun Uncle James' letter. Ouvrie was dispatched with Mr H's letter to Ft. Langley to Watskalatchet the Sannahomish who will perhaps be induced to make the voyage. Wednesday, August 14: Ouvrie returned early this morning, having met Capt. Ryan in the Cadborough at the Poyallipa Bay & the vessel arrived here about 2 PM direct from Millbank Sound. Mr. Finlayson has proceeded to Vancouver with the Ganymede & must have reached his post ere now —we shall probably receive instructions thence soon. Mr. Ogden has gone northwards to Stikeen with the Lama & Vancouver, which place he is to survey. A vessel is soon to be dispatched to the south wd. for a supply of tobacco, rum &c. the latter article is expended & consequently the trade has been stopped at Nasse & Millbank S. Thursday, August 15: Continued at U J's letter in the mg. During the day have begun contrary to my inclination at this juncture, doing the honors of the place to Ryan. We bathed & afterwards came up here. Ryan remained to dinner. Mr H who is indisposed mentioned to him by me to be prepared to sail at an hour's notice, as he is to be a passenger and intends to explore the Sound thoroughly, with a view to find a more eligible spot for an establishment. He wishes me to accompany him through the Sound & until the survey is completed & afterwards to return here while he proceeds with the vessel either to Langley or Vancouver. Am assured of having my letters at headquarters before the vessel sails for Britain. Friday, August 16: Busy writing in the forenoon, while 2 of the men here employed with the beaver, dusting & packing. H. kept himself secluded till the afternoon & then his first act was to cudgel the men engaged with the beaver, cursing them as worthless rascals. Suspicions for some time entertained are now confirmed that he privately indulges to excess in spirituous potations, altho' till yesterday he has never openly taken any beverage but water, nor what is singular, has our conversation ever treated in any shape of the subject of Intoxication Wines &c &c. When in this state H. overwhelms me with the most fulsome flattery & yesterday made great professions of friendship—to which I replied—That many men's professions were hollow, but that I valued his, thinking them sincere [226] —perhaps they are—most likely not. At night orders were issued for embarkation & after much bustle, great speechifying to Lachalet, & ceremony in sealing up the doors, we embarked about 10 accompanied by Ouvrie, Annawaskum, Pierre Charles & families. Sat in the cabin with R. & H.— R. to please H. making great efforts to be witty at McD's expence—H. in a vain glorious mood boasting of his skill at opposition & the dangers he had escaped. The employing of steam boats in the coasting trade was discussed. R. was very eloquent on the advantages of the plan, but could give no information, when questioned on the subject. After being an hour in bed was called on deck by H whom the heat prevented from sleeping below. H proposed sending Ouvrie to reconnoitre the house. O. spoke of the risk attending its being left without a gentleman. I reported to H. & the upshot was, my returning to the house & sending the men down to bring back my baggage. I did not myself think that any risk would be incurred by my absence for a few days, but as H. seemed anxious thought it most advisable to remain here. H. has not formed a regular plan but is first to visit Whidby's Island where Pierre knows of a plain and the place seems very suitable for a trading post being equidistant from Ft Langley, Cape Flattery & Nusqually & in the immediate vicinity of the Klalum, Scaadchet & Sannahomish tribes. Saturday, August 17: The Cadboro' sailed early this morning. Slept till nearly noon & have been very idle today. Got from Lachalet a copious vocabulary of the Nusqually Dialect. The men are employed with the pickets & we have no visitors. Sunday, August 18: This morning a woman from the Portage brought the news that a disease resembling Cholera in its symptoms, rages at Chinook & has proved fatal to many. The sickness begins she says at sunrise & the patient is dead by noon. She is so far circumstantial in her account as to say the 3 Cowlitz Indians have died of the disease. Experience has taught me to put little faith in Indian reports & I hope that this has arisen from some person's telling the Indians of the devastations of Cholera, in other parts of the world, however, my doubts will soon be cleared away. Had a long walk on the prairie in the afternoon & came on a portion new to me, where winding elevations carpeted with young oaks & brake & clothed with pines are not infrequent, marshy hollows were also found of small extent. In the evening have been writing U. James but feel a great inaptitude, which must proceed from indolence, a habit which is fast gaining on me. Have been reading the Acts. The oxen have strayed & are said to be making the best of their way to the Cowlitz. Bourgeau has followed on horseback. [ 227] Monday, August 19: Finished Uncle J's letter except the conclusion which shall not add until Uncle A's is brought to the some state. Have since finished Johnson's Life of Pope. It is interspersed with many valuable reflections from the pen of the illustrious biographer. The first day spent in reading in this country & it has been a pleasant one. No thoughts on the every day subjects of beaver, otter, blankets obtruded themselves & from my experience of today I should prefer passing the winter alone to having a companion. The introduction of the Two Beaver Tariff has caused a cessation of trade which will be of some duration. Tuesday, August 20: Am making no progress with the letter writing & unless I rouse me from this indolent procrastination I shall most inevitably be left in the lurch. Began Uncle A's. After sunset fired some shots at a mark with no success. Shall copy on opposite the receipt sent to U.A. & list of plants. Reed, of A.F. Esq £100 being the principal and Twenty six Pounds the interest due in regard of the Legacy bequeathed to me by the will of my late Grandmother Mrs. Fraser of Inverness. And I acknowledge that these payments are a full discharge of my claims on the said Alexander Fraser under the said Will—Dated N.W. PS. NWA. WFT. List of plants collected in N.W.A: 1 Woody banks of Cowlitz at commencement of Portage—2 to 3 feet—May. 2 Shady banks on the fertile plains—May—2-3—bushy. 3 In scattered patches along the banks of rivers—slender & graceful [List continues for 51 items]. Wednesday, August 21: Have been reading Milton's life— it is impartially written, displaying the weaknesses as well as the virtues of that great author who met with a plentiful share of misfortunes & crosses in his earthly career. Have gone on with U.A.'s letter, but still indolent. A party of Scaadchet arrived, but would not trade, they say that Mr. H. is on his way hither in a canoe of Chihalucums. Thursday, August zz: Another band of Scaadchet arrived who say that Mr. H, has proceeded with the vessel towards Fort Langley accompanied by Babyar in a large canoe. From reading Butler's life was induced to look over Hudibras & read the first cantos—'tis a good book to pass an idle hour, abounding in witty passages. Friday, August 23: In the forenoon writing, Afternoon reading Shakespeare's life, also the Tempest & several admired passages in other plays. England has just reason to boast of her bard who for his knowledge of human nature & wit may rank first among authors. Poor Harry is almost at death's door, being reduced to skin & bone by a violent diarrhea during which several large tape worms have been ejected in addition to an affection [228] which resembles the description of St. Vitus' Dance & was today very severe—throwing him into hideous attitudes & forcing him to progression, while he crammed himself into narrow corners, in the endeavour to restrain the convulsive action of the limbs. Made him swallow nearly gr i Opium with gr viii P. Rhie. Shall much regret his death which I fear will soon happen. His rearing & training cost me much trouble & I had hoped he would have been the faithful companion of my fortunes for years to come. Saturday, August 24: The men today employed in repairing & gumming the boat. Went down to see them at work accompanied by Harry who appeared better. Bathed & H. followed me into the sea. Half an hour after return to house he was seized with violent convulsions which have continued very severe till the evening, he is now lying moribund. Endeavoured to make him swallow Opium & ether & applied various remedies but all to no purpose. Read the lives of Waller, Pomfret &c. & peeped into MacBeth. Sunday, August 25: Harry lay comatose all day & on returning from my evening walk I found him dead. Have been reading Johnson's Life of Dryden. All our great poets seem to have been strongly infected with the vice of envy & the desire to exalt themselves supreme above all predecessors & contemporaries. Not one of Dryden's predecessors nor himself ever showed any firmness of principle in Politics, it being invariably their custom to pen congratulatory effusions to the "rising sun". Had a long stroll in the evening—horses have destroyed the Indian corn in the garden. The pease look miserably stunted in growth. Have in the evening been reading the Acts. Monday, August 26. Had a long walk before breakfast—shot a small duck at the lake but did not wade in for it. Also killed a squirrel, which I have examined by Cuvier & skinned. The Genus Sciurus of Linn: is placed by C. first among the "Rongeney" & is known by the inferior incisors being much compressed, by the long & busy tail. Could not identify the present specimen with any described species. It is common in the woods— starting from its hole suddenly & gazing pertly at the intruder while it keeps up a shrill whistling "Queo Queo" hence its indian name of Queo Queo. In the after noon Mr. Heron arrived—he has visited Whidbey's Island & Dunginess—at the former he found a plain 5 miles by 2 of excellent soil abounding in Deer but there is no good millstream. At the latter, a plain of 400 acres, tolerable soil with an excellent mill stream, large extent of saltmarsh. Tuesday, August Z7: Wrote Hughes today annexing an order for [ 229] £7-57—Obtained Mr. Heron's consent to making a botanizing excursion to Mt. Rainier for which he has allowed 10 days. Have engaged 3 horses from a chief living in that quarter who came here tonight & Lachelet is to be my guide. Told the Indians I am going to Mr. Rainier to gather herbs of which to make medicine, part of which is to be sent to Britain & part retained in case intermittent Fever should visit us—when I will prescribe for the Indians. Wednesday, August 28: A tremendous thunder storm occurred last night succeeded by torrents of rain. The Thunder was very loud & the lightning flashing in completely enlightened my apartment. Have been chatting with Mr. H. about colonizing Whidbey's island—a project of which he is at present quite full—more anon. No horses appeared. Understand that the mountain is four days journey distant, the first of which can only be performed on horseback. If they do not appear tomorrow, I shall start with Lachalet on foot. Began Dr Hooker's letter. Thursday, August 29: Prairie 8 miles N of House. Sunset. Finished all the letters this forenoon & made a packet of them for Vancouver in case an opportunity occurs before my return. Mentioned to my father that I would write Alick on my return. Busied afterwards in making arrangements for journey & while thus occupied the guide arrived with 3 horses. Started about 3—mounted on a strong iron grey stallion—my companions disposing themselves on the other two horses—except one who walked. We were 6 in number. I have engaged Lachalet for a blanket & his nephew Lashima for ammunition to accompany me & Nuckalkat, a Poyalup (whom I took for a native of Mt Rainier) with two horses to be guide on the mountain & after leaving the horse track & Quilniash, his relative, a very active, strong fellow has volunteered to accompany us. The Indians are in great hopes of killing Elk & Chevreuil & Lachalet has already been selling & promising the grease he is to get. It is in a great measure the expectation of finding game that urges them to undertake the journey. Cantered slowly along the prairie & are now at the residence of Nuckalkat's father, under the shade of a lofty pine in a grassy amphitheatre beautifully interspersed & surrounded with Oaks & through the gaps in the birch we see the broad plain extending southwards to Nusqually—in a hollow immediately behind, is almost one sheet of water lillies about to flower. Have supped on Sallal & at dusk, shall turn in. Friday, August 30: Sandy beach of Poyallipa River. Slept ill last night & as I dosed in the mg. was aroused by a stroke across the thigh from a large decayed branch which fell from the pine overshadowing us—a drizzling [ 230] rain fell during most of the night. Got up about dawn & finding thigh stiff & painful thought a stop was put to the journey, but after moving about, it felt easier. Started about sunrise, I mounted on a spirited brown mare & the rest on passable Animals except Nuckalkat, who bestrode a foal. Made a northeasterly course thro' prairie. Breakfasted at a small marsh on Bread, Sallal, Dried Cockles & a small piece of Chevreuil saved from the last night's repast of my companions (for I cannot call them attendants). The points of wood now became broader & the intervening plain degenerated into prairions. Stopped about i P.M. at the abode of 3 Tekatat families— who met us rank & file at the door to shake hands. Their sheds were made of bark resting on a horizontal pole supported at each end by tripods & showed an abundance of Elk's flesh, dried, within. Two kettles were filled with this & after smoking, my indians made a savage repast on the meat & bouillon. Lachalet saying it was the Indian custom to eat a great deal at once & afterwards abstain for a time—he however has eaten twice since. Traded some dried meat for 4 balls & 3 rings—mounting, rode off in the midst of a heavy shower, ascended & descended at different times several steep banks & passed through dense & tangled thickets occasionally coming on a prairion—the soil throughout was of the same nature as that of Nusqually. After descending a very steep bank, came to the Poyallip—Lashima carried baggage across on his head. Rode on the opposite side through a rich alluvial plain 3 or 4 miles in length & 3A to 1 in breadth—it is covered with fern about 8 feet high in some parts. Passed through woods & crossed river several times—about 7pm dismounted & the horses & accoutrements were left in a wood at the river's brink. Started now on foot for a house Nuckalkat knew & after traversing woods & twice crossing the torrents "on the unsteadfast footing" of a log arrived at the house which was a deserted one & encamped on the dry part of river bed—along which our course lies tomorrow. The Poyallip flows rapidly — is about 10 or 12 yards broad. Its banks are high & covered with lofty cedars & pines—the water is of a dirty white colour, being impregnated with white Clay. Lachalet has tonight been trying to dissuade me from going to the snow on the mountain. Saturday, August 31: Slept well. Fine morning. Two salmon trout caught on which are to breakfast before starting. After breakfast Quillihiaish stuck the gills & sound of the fish on a spit which stood before the fire so that the next comer might know that salmon could be obtained there. Have travelled nearly the whole day through a wood of cedar & pine, surface very uneven & after ascending the bed of river a couple of miles 231 are now encamped about i o yards from its margin in the wood. Find myself very inferior to my companions in the power of enduring fatigue—their pace is a smart trot which soon obliges me to rest. The waters of the Poyallip are still of the same colour—can see a short distance up two lofty hills covered with wood. Sunday, September i, 1833: Bank of Poyallip River. It has rained all night & is now 6am pouring down—are a good deal sheltered by the trees. My companions are all snoozing—shall presently arouse them & hold a council of war—the prospect is very discouraging—our provisions will be expended today & Lachalet said about one he thought the River would be too high to be fordable in either direction. Had dried meat boiled in a cedar bark kettle for breakfast. I go rigged out in green blanket without trowsers in indian style & trudged on through the wood—afterwards exchanged blanket with Lachalet for Ouvrie's Capot, which has been on almost every Indian at Nusqually. However I found it more convenient than blanket. Our course lay up the river, which we crossed frequently—the bed is clayey in most parts. Saw the Sawbill Duck once or twice riding down on a log —I fired twice unsuccessfully. Have been flanked on both sides with high pineclad hills for some time—a short distance above encampment snow can be seen. It having rained almost incessantly have encamped under a shelving bank which has been undermined by the river—immense stone only held in site by dried logs from the roof — the floor is very rugged. Have supped on berries which when heated with stones in kettle taste like sowens [ ? ]. Propose tomorrow to ascend one of the snowy peaks above. Monday, September 2: Summit of a snowy peak immly. under Rainier Passed a very uncomfortable night in our tooglodytic mansion. Ascended river for 3 miles to where it was shut in by amphitheatre of Mountains & could be seen bounding over a lofty precipice above. Ascended that which showed most snow. Our track lay at first through a dense wood of pine but we afterwards emerged into an exuberantly verdant gully closed on each side by lofty precipices. Followed gully to near the summit & found excellent berries in abundance. It contained very few alpine plants—afterwards came to a grassy mound where the sight of several decayed trees induced us to encamp. After tea I set out with Lachelet & Nuckalkat for the summit which was ancle deep with snow for Va mile downwards. The summit terminated in abrupt precipice direct Nwards & bearing NE from Mt Rainier, the adjoining peak. The mists were at times very dense but a puff of S W wind occasionally dispelled them. On the S. side of Poyallip is a range of snow dappled mountains & they as well as that on the N side [232] terminate in Mt. Rainier a short distance to E. Collected a vasculum of plants at the snow & have examined & packed them—shall turn in. Lachalet by his own request is to be my bedfellow. Thermom: at base 54°—at summit of ascent 47 °. Tuesday, September 3: Woody islet on Poyallip. It rained heavily during night but about dawn, the wind, shifting to N.E. dispersed the clouds & frost set in. Lay shivering all night—roused my swarthy companion twice to rekindle the fire. At sunrise, accompanied by Quilliash, went to the summit & found the tempr. of the air 33 °—the snow was spangled & sparkled brightly in the bright sunshine. It was crisp & only yielded a couple of inches to the pressure of the foot in walking. Mt Rainier appeared surpassingly splendid & magnificent. It bore, from the peak on which I stood, SS.E & was separated from it only by a narrow glen whose sides however were formed by inaccessible precipices. Got all my bearings more correctly today, the atmosphere being clear & every object distinctly perceived. The river flows at first in a northerly direction from the mountain. The snow on the summit of the mountain adjoining Rainier on western side of Poyallip is continuous with that of latter, & this the S. Western aspect of Rainier seemed the most accessible, by ascending the first mountain through a gulley in its northern side you reach the eternal snow of Rainier & for a long distance afterwards the ascent is very gradual, but then it becomes abrupt from the sugarloaf form assumed by the mt. Its eastern side is steep—on its northern aspect a few small glaciers were seen on the conical portion, below that the mountain is composed of bare rock, apparently volcanic which about 50 yards in breadth reaches from the snow to the valley beneath & is bounded on each side by bold bluff crags scantily covered with stunted pines. Its surface is generally smooth but here & there raised into small points or knobs or arrowed with short & narrow longitudinal lines in which the snow lay. From the snow on western border the Poyallipa arose—in its course down this rocky slope was fenced in to eastward by a regular elevation of the rock in the form of a wall or dyke which (at the distance I viewed it at) seemed about 4 feet high & 400 yards in length. Two large pyramids of rocks arose from the gentle acclivity at S.W. extremity of mountain & around each the drifting snow had accumulated in large quantity forming a basin apparently of great depth. Here I also perceived, peeping from their snowy covering, two lines of dyke similar to that already mentioned. Wednesday, September 4: Are tonight encamped on a small emminence near the commencement of prairie. Had a tedious walk through the wood bordering Poyallip, but accomplished it in a much shorter time than formerly. [ 233 ] m Thursday, September 5: Nusqually. Reached Tekatat Camp in the forenoon & regaled on boiled Elk & Shallon. Pushed on ahead with Lachalet & Quillihiaish & arrived here in the evening, where all is well. Friday, September 6: Nothing particular. Saturday, September 7: Traded today at the new tariff—all the Soquamish Chiefs are now encamped at the beach, having come to gather & dry the Shallon which is the employment of the wives & slaves while the Chiefs pass the time in gaming. Mr. Heron was on the point of starting for Vancouver in my absence but has now postponed his voyage sine die. Tuesday, September 10: Have been busy today taking inventory of goods in store. Yesterday a letter arrived from Mr. Yale by indians stating that trade is good & that he has salted 350 barrels of salmon. Rode out in the evening with John to discover what sort of rush would best answer for covering houses. Wednesday, September 11: Finished inventory & have been since reading & chatting with Mr. Heron. First observed on Sunday Evening that feet & ancles were somewhat odematous & the swelling has not yet disappeared—took lastnight gr x Pil: Hydrary: & this morning a dose Sulph: Soda, which latter has only operated & that on the kidneys. Suppose the affection is owing to the hardships sustained on the botanizing excursion—hope it has no connection with my old annoyance, Palpitation, because I have been less troubled with that complaint this summer than for a long time back. Thursday, September 12: Occupied in changing plant papers & making out the following list. Specimens look tolerably well. Began a scrap of Dr Hooker's letter. Took another dose of glauber's salt, which operated, anasarca has disappeared from right leg, health otherwise excellent. (List of 60 items follows here giving locality in which plant specimens were found. No description of plants.) Friday, September 13: Made the above addition to former list of plants. Got out articles for Drs Hooker & Scouler & arranged lumber chest. In the evening have been writing Dr. Hooker. Saturday, September 14: The anniversary of my embarkation in the Ganymede for this remote corner. Have been writing Dr Hooker in the evening. Large flocks of the Laughing Goose have passed southward since dusk. Was mistaken in supposing that swans passed southward some time back—the birds were Herons. (Cranes, 1834). Sunday, September 15: Nothing of note. This day last year on board 234. the Ganymede was penning valedictory epistles to friends in Scotland & Dr H was among the number to whom I was today writing. Monday, September 16: Went to the beach after breakfast to visit old Kasket who has a large suppurating tumor immediately under angle of jaw on left side. Opened abscess & applied a poultice of the shallon berry. Saw great numbers of a small grey bird flying rapidly about & diving precipitately from a height of many feet in to the water for small fish. Employed Lachalet to shoot one & he brought me two terns, the bird in question & a small gull. Examined the former which proved to be the Sterno Hirundo of Luin: [measurements of bird follow here] Some women who left the Scadchet country yesterday, bring no accounts of the vessel. Tuesday, September 17: Prepared skin of tern. [Measurements of tern follow]. Changed papers. Copied list for Dr Hooker. Wednesday, September 18: Received today an owl of same species as formerly & two specimens of the gull examined yesterday, which intended to skin, but have been occupied all the forenoon & in negociating with the Indians for split cedar & after a great deal of trouble succeeded in prevailing on the 3 brothers of Chintzasan to commence work with the promise of 20 charges ammunition for 10 boards of 2 feet broad by 18 long & for 30 such a fathom of Red Baize—they are all shrewd selfish dogs, terribly afraid of being cheated. In the evg. the Cadboro hove in sight, but anchored about 5 miles distant close to the isle which bounds the prospect to N.E. John & Louis being dispatched in a canoe about an hour after midnight returned with the letters &c from Ft Langley — we have just concluded their perusal. Then to the amount of 280 barrels of salt salmon on board the vessel & some small supplies of sundries "for us". Thursday, September 19: Up at dawn — the Cadboro' arrived at breakfast time & the day has been occupied in the conveying of the goods from vessel to store. About 30 Indians were employed for this purpose & wrought manfully. Dined on salt salmon & some superexcellent murphies from Ft Langley. The work being concluded the "savage" were regaled with a few potatoes, salty salmon, molasses & rum & each received five rings & 4 in. Tob: the rum was liberally "baled out" & many of the worthies overstepped the bounds of moderation m their potations & their haranguing & blustering in front of the house & noisy clamour in going to the beach reminded me forcibly of Lammas evg at Campbelton. Here the greatest good humour prevaded all; but on getting to the beach they began to squabble & it was necessary to send down Ouvrie to pacify them & he found Lachalet in the clutches of the brawny Soquamish Siasch, & his son & receiving [235] 7^m from them a vigorous pommelling from whom he was rescued by O, & is now here loudly vaunting of his courage. The men have also received a "regale" of pork, potatoes, molasses & rum & are at present loudly chaunting their voyaging songs round the camp fire—poor fellows, they are very deserving of the treat, having fared poorly all the summer both as to food & shelter while they wrought constantly at heavy work without a murmur of discontent. Friday, September 20: The men not withstanding their evening's debauch began work at the usual hour—they have been promised another blow out if Mr. Heron is satisfied with their work on his return from Vancouver. Have been copying papers for Vancouver. Captain R. dined with us & received his bill of Lading, sailing orders &c. The conversation was principally regarding the Cadboro' & her crew—the sailors are as usual discontented, grumbling. H. spoke his mind very freely to Ryan, but in a polite & respectful way & suggested the propriety of a more affable demeanour towards his officers more particularly, which R. did not think himself at all deficient in. H. let out some idle gossip which R. must have known to proceed from me. This does not say much for H's caution who was rather "flummergastered", nor for mine either, but it is a lesson to me to avoid tittle tattle with all persons. Vir sapit qui pauca loquitur. Dr. S. told me the Grits in this country were much addicted to gossip & scandal. Saturday, September 21: Mr. H. expressed a wish this morning that the apartment adjoining the store should be prepared for my reception & the men have been at work all day in flooring it & removing the goods to the Store & tonight I have taken up my abode in it & shall (be occupied) till tomorrow morning in finishing Dr. Hooker's letter. Packed box of plants, birdskins &c which addressed to Dr Scouler, Anders: Museum & embarked on board the Cadboro' & it is now on its way to Vancouver. Sunday, September 22: Sat up all night & finished Dr H's letter this forenoon having a closely written & crossed sheet of foolscap. H. intends departing immediately for Vancouver & I shall not have time to write Dr Scouler. H. has been exhorting the chiefs to good behaviour during his absence—presented several with shirts & lent Lachalet, two beaver traps, whom he wishes to go a hunting during his own absence entertaining a groundless fear that he wd. prove troublesome. Monday, September 23: Mr H. roused the establishment about midnight & started in a canoe for the Chute R—where I have sent the horses to meet him this mg early in charge of Bourgeau who has gone to bring home the truant oxen. Pierre has been busy making a counter &c in the store & the [236] rest of the men demolishing our old residence, beneath the floor of which the winter hoards of many mice were discovered & unmercifully (word illegible). Tuesday, September 24: Pierre today commenced a window frame for my apartment—glass having been sent from Ft Langley. With John's assistance arranged the store & afterwards resumed the study of Geography broken off in Apr as I now begin to find myself somewhat settled & at home. Have begun Europe in Guthrie, the Introduction having been formerly read. Traded a few beaver for traps & fine cotton shirts. Mr H. has lowered the price of the former from 3 to 2 beaver each. Purchased for 6 charges ammunition a young whelp of the short haired Indian wolfdog breed, about 3 months old—his name is Tsuchamons which I shall change for that of "Tyke". Wednesday, September 25: Read Guthrie on Denmark & Sweden. Denmark has in former days been the most powerful of the Scandinavian kingdoms, but Sweden boasts of the most illustrious men both in the arts of peace & war. Must not abandon the practice followed on board the Ganymede of appropriating a portion of each day to professional reading & it shall have the preference when business does not allow time for both. Am getting apartment in order—window is fitted, a bookcase made & door fixed in passage leading to store. A party of Scaadchet arrived in the evening. Thursday, September z6: The Scadchet chief Saghomedun, a jolly looking corpulent old gentleman enveloped in a deerskin robe brought his skins to the mart, but would not barter. Have today been examining the plants from N. America given to me by Dr. Hooker & can identify very few with those collected this summer. Yesterday was showery & today we have had almost continual & heavy rain. Wd. W.—a slight thunder storm about 2 P.M. Went to beach in the evening to bespeak parchment Skins for windows.The Indians begin to bring us Venison which has been very scarce since the middle of July when the grass on the prairie, being dry & withering was nearly all consumed by fire. Now a new & tender crop has arisen, which perhaps attracts the Deer, the horses prefer it to the rich & luxuriant tho' more rank grass of the meadows in the Marsh. Friday, September 27: Saghomedun after a long debate carried away his skins but returning in the evening disposed of them without any preamble. Visited by my old friend Quilliliast as hungry as a wolf—gave him a dried salmon. Pestered with Indians all day but am glad that one of the Sound [237] Indians has bartered at the new tariff as the others having an example before them are likely the sooner to yield. This evg finished Sweden in Guthrie. Saturday, September 28: Up early & engaged till breakfast & covering Atlas with a piece of thin Chevreuil skin. Read Guthrie on Norway & since at intervals have glanced his histories of England & France—out frequently looking after the men. Occupied with a Sinnamish hunter & chief who came to barter but broke off. He tells a long story of the arrival of two American ships at Cape Flattery & that the Chiefs threaten to send disease amongst them if they do not trade beaver. It appears that an American Captain who lay for sometime in the Columbia, the season intermittent fever first appeared, is considered by the Indians to have left the malady in revenge for his not receiving skins. Sunday, September 29: After breakfast had a long walk. Visited the two small lakes & on the banks of the more distant one collected a vasculum full of plants—afterwards crossed to marsh where saw the oxen & having inspected the pease field returned home. Was accompanied by one of Ouvrie's brothers in law, a Portage Indian, who being without a name has received from me the cognomen of "Uncas". The prairie has quite a vernal aspect in those parts which were overrun by fire in summer. Tonight received the gratifying report that the Klalums living on Hoods Canal intend soon cutting off the Whites at Nusqually whose change of the Tariff they say is robbery of the Indians. The news was sent by Challicoom, who says it would grieve him much, that evil should happen to us, who have always treated him kindly & that if we wish it he will remain as a protector until Mr. Heron arrives. The murder of McKenzie & the son of the person who was killed by those who came to revenge McK's death are the plotters of the mischief & they have sent a message to the Soquamish here to go to their own territories & that then, the coast being clear, they will perpetrate the crime. The messenger from Challicoom was Atchilum brother to Cinatea, who has of late from his knowledge of Chenook &c frequently acted as interpreter & been rather a conspicuous character, he is one of the most shrewd & intelligent Indians I have seen. Called in P. Charles to hear the relation, his advice being valuable from his knowledge of the "savage" in this quarter—he stated that none of that branch of the Klalum nation to which our foes belong, have as yet appeared here & thought it not improbable that there might be some ground for the report. It struck me at once that our friends below the bank finding their reports of the arrival of Boston ships not in the least to ameliorate the tariff have fabricated this story with a view to intimidate me & increase their own importance in our estima- [238] tion. Told Challicoom by all means to remain & thanked him for the information, at the same time telling him that the smallest violence on the part of the Indians would be severely avenged by the Whites, who are now much more powerful than when poor McKenzie was cut off, moreover, that if the Indians continued to threaten "& speak bad" as soon as Mr H returns, we shall carry all the goods to Vancouver & abandon all thoughts of forming an establishment on Puget's Sound—the latter statement will keep him silent in future, if the report is a falsehood of his coinage. Monday, September 30: Gave the Chiefs after breakfast an entertainment of Venison, Molasses & Biscuit, having too much of the first mentioned on hand for my own consumption. Occupied most of the day in bartering petty furs & in the intervals read Guthrie & visited the men at work in the wood behind house. Traded a goose today for the first time. Tuesday, October 1: Changed plant papers & what with trading & visiting the men have had no time for reading. Have once more commenced observing thermometer & state of the weather & must not allow indolence or forgetfulness to prevent my doing so regularly. Shall observe thermometer thrice daily & mark on a slate at the moment, what has been noticed. [Thermometer readings follow]. The oaks around house are now much resorted to by the Blue Jay, who may be frequently seen flying from tree to tree with an acorn in its bill, another blue bird the size of a linnet also frequents the oaks & pines near us. The Sallal Season seems almost over & the Indian women are busy working mats for a covering to their winterhouses of cedar board altho' a few still occasionally pass with berries. Wednesday, October z: Engaged today much in the same manner as yesterday. In the evg went to the beach & found that both canoes were absent & the boat lying in a very exposed situation on beach. Sent for Challicoom, whose slaves were using the large canoe & waited his approach in Atchilum's house who acted as interpreter. Remonstrated with him on the impropriety of stealing our canoes but the interpreter declined translating his answer on the ground that he"spoke bad". Then said that if the Indians here continued to show such a bad disposition & their pilfering habits were not abandoned we wd leave the place. Afterwards returned to house & was soon followed by Atchilum who said I narrowly escaped being killed by Challicoom who spoke very bad to him & affronted him greatly by pointing his finger at him. He advised me to be watchful tonight in case of an attack. I did not look on my situation before as at all critical & was a good deal surprised by his statement which I think is much exaggerated. Gave each of [ 2'39 1 the men a musket & 6 charges Ammunition & had all the guns loaded, in order to be prepared for the worst. Have desired John McKay to sleep in my apartment. Thursday, October 3: Sent for Challicoom after breakfast repeating what I had said lastnight, asked him if he meditated doing me any mischief last night, he answered in the negative & said he had no weapon about him at the time. Said did not believe him capable of doing the whites harm who looked on him as a brother—gave him some tobacco (k the peace was made "route suite". Friday, October 4: Visited by Atchilum & Challicoom who this morning adjusted their differences by the interchange of presents of equal value— gave them each some tobacco accompanied with a short harangue. Saturday, October 5: Occupied this afternoon in examining & preparing the skin of a species of Colymbus yesterday procured from an Indian who shot it at the mouth of the Nusqually. [description in detail of bird follows here]. Sunday, October 6: Examined slightly & prepared the skin of a partridge. Used a strong decoction of Tobacco instead of the arsenical Soap, having some scratches on hands. Afterwards walked in the direction of the Marsh, with vasculum & gun but found no employment for either. In the evening have been reading Paley's Natural Theology & finished the Acts. Made a long harangue to the assembled chiefs this mg about an axe stolen yesterday. Kaskeh's slave is the supposed culprit. Monday, October 7: Had a long conversation with Kaskeh about the axe & on confronting him & Bourgeau, the latter retracted much that he had said in disparagement of the slave. Felt much inclined to drub him, but refrained. Brought John to whom B. had communicated what he had to say with request that he would convey it to me, in contact with the latter when the scamp had the effontery to say that he had told the Indian everything, thus making it appear that the falsehood lay with me. Saluted him with a pelt in the ribs, which he feebly returned, & then took to tail I following at his heels. Getting tired, or plucking up courage he stopped & collared me. Did not attempt to free myself, but gave him a few blows on the face, the last of which made him a field officer & after receiving some salutations on his nether end from my foot he "sued for marcy" which was immediately granted. Tuesday, October 8: Reading Guthrie on England. A party of Scad- chet on the ground, but have not offered to trade. Poor Bourgeau looks quite crestfallen, his countenance adorned with black eye & swollen nose & lip. [ 240 ] I have more than once threatened him with a licking & he probably mistaking my forbearance for fear has been telling the men, that if I struck him he would show fight & make a fierce resistance. Wednesday, October 9: Had some Labradore tea for dinner yesterday— made I suspect, in rather a foul tin teapot. Passed a sleepless night, belly much distended with flatus & uneasy today, have felt alternate chills & heated & a general soreness pervading body, with loss of appetite. Sensations more agreeable tonight, but to ward off disease have taken Pulv: Doveri & am to use the pediluvium & other measures to induce diathorisis. The men have today commenced building Mr. H's house which is to be 55 ft. by 20 & divided into 3 apartments having a large storeroom above. Thursday, October 10: Changed papers, but did not read much. In the evening a Klalum party appeared, the leader of which in a very fluent harangue, disclaimed all intention on the part of the chiefs of the natives of doing us harm & alluded in his speech to the kind treatment Mr. H reed from them in his visit. There being several other chiefs & perhaps the inventors of the former reports I did not say much, but shall tomorrow hold forth to him through the medium of P. Charles's wife. Tonight have been reading Mackintosh on Peritonitis. Friday, October 11: Spoke to the Klalum after breakfast & sent a present of Tobacco to the heads of the tribe with an invitation to come and trade when they see one of our vessels passing & she will bring an abundant supply of goods. Saturday, October 12: Reed a visit in evg from a party of Thunanook who have come to keep Sunday. Prepared the skin of a Pileated Woodpecker—reed the day before yesterday. Went down to the beach in the afternoon & saw the large canoe & boat safe in the Creek. The variegated hues of the leaves, now in the sere, show that winter is approaching. In returning, shot a small bird resembling the wren but not agreeing with any of the species described in Wilson—the specimen was much injured. This evening have been reading McKintosh. Sunday, October 13: In the forepart of the day reading Paley—afterwards went to the Lake with gun & vasculum. Found a new specimen in swampy corner till lately covered with water. Shot a specimen of the Regulus Cristatus or Golden Crested Wren. There was a flock of 12 or 15 flitting about among the upper branches of the oaks & pines bordering lake & uttering a note resembling the word "tat teete". Very difficult to shoot, being almost continually in motion. Monday, October 14: Went to the beach after breakfast—in the wood saw numerous specimens of the downy woodpecker—& several of the 241 Pileated. Tried to shoot the latter, but he was too wary. The tap of a bird too distant to be seen exactly resembled the sound of a trumpet. Wilson mentions a woodpecker which makes this sound in tapping. A large flock of ducks was seen in the bay & near the shore one or two large Colymbi were busy fishing, swimming about with snow white breast & long arched neck. Fired with shot, but missed. An Indian made a beautiful shot with ball at the same bird, killing it at a distance of at least 80 yards—it proved of the same species as that lately described. Tuesday, October 15: Engaged during day in preparing skin of Colym- bos procured yesterday—also finished that of the pileated woodpecker. In the "gloamin " had a pleasant stroll along prairie & a fine view of Tuchoma or Mt Rainier, appearing in relief against the cloudless firmament—its summit as seen tonight seems trifid and the peaks apparently equal in height but the middle the most obtuse. In returning having forsaken the path surrendered myself to guidance of Tyke who made a very straight course for the house. Have been reading Paley's Theology which led to a train of serious reflection, a mood which I have rarely fallen into of late, I am sorry to say. Am daily adding a word or two to my knowledge of the language spoken by the Nusqually, Poyallip, Soquamish & Sinnamish & shall presently set about arranging a vocabulary taken down at different periods. Wednesday, October 16: Occupied in changing plant papers during forenoon, in preparing seeds & arranging trunks. Watskalatcheh has tonight arrived—the Sannahomish dialect radically is similar to the Nusqually as also the Scadched. Thursday, October 17: After breakfast visited by Watskalatcheh & the resident chiefs & was requested to "wawa sacchali". Gave them an account of the Creation, the fall of our first parents & brought down my relation to their expulsion from Paradise, speaking to a very attentive audience. Cleaned gun & rifle. Fired Vz a dozen shots with latter at a target 60 paces distant, one ball struck within 3 inches of bulls eye. Tonight have been reading Paley's Theology—on Insects. From the wonderful conformation of many of these he draws many long & unanswerable proofs of design & intelligence which indeed can be multiplied ad infinitum. Friday, October 18: After breakfast practising with rifle at same distance put several balls within 3 & 4 inches of mark. Gave one trial to Challicoom whose ball pierced the pupil of bull's eye near its centre. Saturday, October 19: Ellacoom, our old acquantance from the Straits arrived this morning accompanied by a large band of Klalums, or what is [ 242 ] their correct title Nooseclalum—they all seem disappointed at finding us so destitute of goods. Ellacoom has occupied me the whole day in his endeavoring to debate the price of duffle, but has used his eloquence & fibbing to no purpose. Sunday, October 20: Occupied till nightfall in trading, my visitors being desirous to depart & I equally anxious to get rid of them regarding them as "ugly customers". Kept the band outside the pickets, only admitting the person trading & one or two of his friends. P. Charles being door keeper gave admission to one who brought him a present of dried salmon—the other chiefs who would have entered at the same time complained loudly at being excluded. During the uproar the squall suddenly coming on laid the line of pickets in front of store prostrate with the ground. This unexpected catastophe for a moment silenced the clamor but it broke out again with redoubled fury & I trembled for the result, but was soon relieved from my apprehensions by hearing a loud guffaw proceeding from the brazen throats of the burly savages outside, who hesitated at first to cross the trench, but soon were crowding about the door of shop. The gale continued very violent for some minutes & made the tallest pines bend like a slender fishing rod. Have got 3 of the men to sleep in my room & shall keep watch all night. Monday, October 21: Oak leaves are flying about in all directions & the trees themselves present a much more wintry aspect than they did on Saturday. The men have been engaged in repairing the damage sustained by our "fortifications" and tonight things are "in statu quo". The whole gang of Indians departed this forenoon & since then I have been occupied with Challicoom & Sialeh who have given the welcome notice that intend taking themselves off tomorrow. Am tonight looking over Paley's Horae Paulinae. Wednesday, October 23: Up early this morning & went down to beach accompanied by Lachalet, went along the bay to the commencement of the Nusqually sands where there is a spring of excellent water. The sands are alive with wildfowl. Geese, ducks, gulls, plovers et hoc genus omnae busy feeding & keeping up an unceasing clatter here & there gigantic herons may be seen singly or in small flocks occupied in the same manner, occasionally uttering a hoarse loud scream quite different from their cry in flight. Collected two specimens of plants. Reed this evening a very handsome hawk wounded in the wing—have not yet decided whether to preserve the skin, or endeavour to tame the bird like the gled of yore. Am counting the days now till Mr. H arrives, being very anxious to receive my packet of letters which barring accidents must have come with the Express expected [243] by Mr. Heron to reach Vancouver on the 20th, currt. On this supposition I look for Mr. Heron the beginning of next month. Thursday, October 24: Went to the beach before breakfast & made a cursory survey of the bank with a view to the formation of a cart road which we must soon commence. During forenoon examining a species of duck brought this morning. It agrees in its plumage with the description of the Anas Fuligula of Wilson, but differs in the color of upper mandible which at base & near tip is marked with a transverse band of white—there being also a minute line of it edging & surrounding nostril, whereas with the Anas F. the "bill is of a dusky color". The bird was a male & very plump & stomach empty—& gizzard containing a multitude of small stones. Attempted to skin the specimen but failed. The hawk is still alive — on being molested he throws himself on his back & strikes violently with his feet — grasping the obnoxious object so firmly in his talons as to allow himself to be suspended in air by the hold—he has not touched either a partridge or blue jay both newly killed which were laid before him. On looking into Wilson I think the bird corresponds with the Falco Leverianus—Lachalet calls it Seeatche & also says it is a young bird. It feeds on salmon & he affirms on carrion & will soon be found at the Nusqually R. when the dead salmon are thrown up on the banks. Friday, October 25: After breakfast examined a species of Podiceps, a subgenus of Colymbus & intend if spared to skin. Afterwards changed plant papers & made out the foregoing list (refers to list of plants—9 more items giving locality in which he found plants). Since have been reading Guthrie on England. Lastnight perused an interesting article by Anderson on the manner in which the vulture discovers its food, addressed to Professor Jameson. His experiments & observations render it probable that the bird is more indebted to its keenness of vision than to its power of smelling for the faculty of discovering carrion. He also shows that it is not from choice but necessity that vulture waits until its prey, in some cases becomes putrid, being unable sooner to penetrate the hide. In towns in the Southern parts of America, these birds perform the office of scavengers, devouring all the carrion thrown into a receptacle in the suburbs to which they resort. Douglas & Drummond have discovered five new species of grouse in this country of which I have seen two. Must endeavour after Mr H. returns to make up the Nusqually when I may fall in with something rare. Saturday, October 26: This morning before breakfast the golden crested wrens were numerous in the pines behind—hopping about among the branches in their usual restless manner. Shot one in the act of swallowing a [ 244 ] moth or butterfly, which remained in its mouth after it fell. On reloading & going out they were all gone but about an hour after I heard their twittering a short distance to N. In the morning despatched two men to build up a hay stack partly overthrown by the gale on Sunday & after breakfast went out to see them at work—afterwards rambled through the marsh along the banks of the Seguallitch (the Indian name for the Coe)—shot two specimens of the marsh wren—it is often to be seen in the marsh, hopping about the lower branches of the bushes & frequently chirping—it is very insuspicious. Wilson mentions that it disappears from Pennsylvania about the ist September & is of opinion that it does not winter in any of the Southern States. I must watch its motions here. The landscape is now very variegated—the many hued foliage is fast disappearing from the trees & shrubs in the woods— however the shallon seems from the contrast even more verdant than formerly. Did not return till sunset & found the Tekakat, at whose house I rested in going to & returning from the mountains. Sunday, October Z7: Practised a little with rifle before breakfast & made some good shots, hitting the bulls eye once at 60 paces. Prepared skins of wrens. This evening have been reading Paley & Dwight. A shark was seen this evening at the mouth of the Sequallitch, attracted probably by the salmon who are now becoming numerous. Lachalet says they are only seen in Autumn, but I now recollect of seeing—when the Cadboro' was here—the fin of one or some other large fish appearing above water near her stern. Monday, October 28: Before breakfast trading with some indians who arrived on Saturday—afterwards practised with rifle at 90 paces & made two passable shots—after dinner fired 10 shots with pistols two of which only struck the mark—as I have never used them till today it was sometime before ascertained the proper charge of powder & I must practise still more more before I can put any dependence on them in an emergency. Tuesday, October 29: This morning the golden crested wrens were flitting about among the large pines behind house, but by the time gun was loaded & carried out they had all disappeared—the harvest seems to be nearly over with the Blue Jays, who are now more rarely seen on the oaks in our neighbourhood. In the forenoon reading Guthrie on Ireland but frequently out overlooking the men, whom, taking advantage of the serene weather I have employed in felling the large trees in the immediate vicinity of Fort, lest a recurrence of the last gale should precipate them on our heads. After dinner went to the beach with rifle & fired several shots at the Colymbi, who were busy fishing near the shore. All the shots fired at about the distance of 245 60 yds came near the object & the fourth was successful killing a species of Podiceps., which I have not heretofore seen. The hawk today ate a small portion of meat, but he still retains all his fierceness. Lachalet with a party has gone to a neighbouring island to hunt the deer with dogs. Wednesday, October 30: Before breakfast reading Guthrie on Scotland. During forenoon occupied with some Thuanook but very little trade made. During afternoon, when not engaged in inspecting operations without, reading the life of Dr Dwight, the great American Theologian. He was a man of profound & varied attainments & gained the admiration & esteem of his contemporaries both in his public & private career. Hope to derive important benefit from the perusual of his sermons on Theology—they are more fervent, impressive & evangelical than those of Paley. The first volume embraces many of the topics contained in the Natural Theology of the latter & can with propriety be commenced when I have finished that work. Thursday, October 31: Out before breakfast inspecting the line of road to beach marked out by P. Charles—afterwards reading Guthrie on the history of Scotland. During forenoon arranging chest No. 2.—cleaning arms & examining bird, an account of which shall be entered tomorrow. Having dined, changed plant papers & thereafter went to beach with rifle & fired four times unsuccessfully. In the evening have been reading Paley on the Goodness of the Deity—& this being Hallowe'en, my thoughts have reverted to my fatherland & I have roused the "dull ear of night" with auld Langsyne &c on the flute. Have just been looking into journal of last year—on this day I began the study of logarithms—in the evening had an interesting conversation with Gairdner on the character of Sir Walter Scott then about to be disengaged from his mortal coil & enter the world of spirits. I wonder if this evening I occupy for a moment the thoughts of those who are "far awa". Each returning night when done of reading & musing by the fireside divers conjectures arise as to the contents of the letters I hope to receive ere this moon be out to use the Indian's phrase. The men have informed me that it is customary to observe tomorrow as a holiday. Friday, November 1: Examined & prepared skin of bird shot on Wednesday. [Description of bird in detail follows]. Before shooting bird I observed it endeavouring to swallow a fish too strong to be managed & which obliged it to dive. Was therefore surprised to find it nearly filled with feathers—its texture was slightly muscular. Practised with rifle in the afternoon but only made one tolerable shot. Throwing the "putting stone" in the evening & much to his astonishment sent it half a yard farther than the gigantic Lachalet. Read Macintosh on Chronic Peritonitis—also the first [ 246 ] sermon in Dwight, the subject "the Existence of God"—its conclusion is sublime & very impressive. Saturday, November z: This morning finished Guthrie on Scotland & after breakfast feeling an inclination for light reading, as the day was very gloomy got out Lalla Rookh & have read it through. Do not admire the veiled Prophet of the Khorasan—it is too full of improbabilities & as Fadladeen justly observes the heroine becomes insane & regains her senses in rather an unaccountable manner—as regards the narrative the Fireworship- pers is much superior—the story is more connected & the interest kept up to last in Moore's poetry—there are some passages eminently beautiful & pathetic but there are too frequent a repetition of the same images. In the afternoon received a living specimen of the Colymbus previously described. It was slightly wounded on the head—on being let loose, it struck out with its feet as in swimming & by the aid of wings pushed forward on its belly occasionally uttering a loud mournful cry & striking with its bill at any person who approached. Cut one of its wings & threw it into the small lake— where it swam & dived vigorously. Sunday, November 3: After breakfast read Dwight—a sermon entitled Reflections on the Sabbath. In the evening have been reading him on the changes of the Sabbath & on its perpetuity—for both of which he adduces sound reasons. He has satisfactorily proved in a preceding discourse read last Sunday that the observance of the Sabbath is incumbent on all Christians. This Paley doubts but his objections are all answered by Dwight. Encouraged by the stillness of this morning numbers of crows flocked around the house eating the entrails of the salmon lately traded by the people. Saw the Colymbus today—he was busy diving & in one instance required all his alacrity, being pounced at by a large hawk. Monday, November 4: Before breakfast, worked for half an hour with the axe, in cutting firewood—from the sedentary life led since Mr H's departure am increasing in corpulency & I can take the necessary exercise to reduce it in this way without leaving the premises—the plan had occurred to me some time ago, but in reading Dwight's life that he followed it, I resolved to put it in execution forthwith. Looked into Eleanore d'Aquitaine the prize gained in D' Aymar's French Club at Perth in 1825. It is a more useful work than I expected containing pretty copious historical notes. I now recollect however that D'Aymar told me that it was a work of merit. Eleanore was wife of Henry II of England—the Conqueror of Ireland & temporary ruler of Caledonia & father of Richard Coeur de Lion. The hawk was not seen today. Tuesday, November 5: Read Eleanore for about two hours, began the 247. geography of France. Afterwards till dinner time removing Scottish Plants from newspapers to blotting paper, the former being better adapted for packing bird skins. In the evening have been glancing over some of the Edinr. Evg. Post & cut out some short articles which have pasted in an old Copy Book—one relates to the edible swallows nests so much esteemed by the Chinese & is an extract from Crawfurd's work on the Indian Archipelago. The nests are found in damp caverns, are taken before the laying has commenced & are arranged after being simply dried, into three sorts, the first of which sells for £5.18.1 Vz pr H. In appearance they resemble isinglas & are supposed to possess powerfully tonic & stimulating quality by the Chinese, who import them from the Indian Archipelago to the amount of £284-290 annually & this immense sum forms part of the Emperor's Revenue. Began Paley's Moral & Political Philosophy having finished Natural Theology on Sunday Evening. Am now going to read part of one of Dwight's discourses on the Comparative Influence of Atheism & Christianity. Wednesday, November 6: Occupied till dinner time in looking over numbers of the Edr. Evg. Post, Chambers's Journal. Penny magazine & the Day—the two middle contained much useful information. Cannot justify to myself this infringing on the regular course of reading, to wit Guthrie's Geography &c but the day has not been lost as I have added a little to my stock of knowledge & while poring over these records of the past, reviews &c, old thoughts & musings have come on & I almost fancy myself again in the civilized world. Thursday, November 7: Up early & went to the beach before breakfast. The Bay was thickly studded with small flocks of ducks, gulls & Colymbi— while at the Nusqually Sands they could be seen as thick as bees—now & then a noise like thunder striking the ear—produced by the rising of large flock. Fired two shots, well directed but not fatal, my quarry in the second instance, a large Colymbus struck out for the sea shaking his head & wings & looking by no means satisfied with himself. After breakfast glanced hurriedly over a number of trashy Days, changed plant papers— read Eleanore. This evening have been reading Paley on Human Happiness— have been musing on Matrimony & settling in Canada & on the deaths of some of the nurses in the Cholera Hospital, Glasgow. Friday, November 8: Up early, went to the Lake, but did not get a shot at ducks. Found the body of Colymbus at margin. During day reading Guthrie on France but have felt unusually drowsy & listless. Evg reading Macintosh on Bronchitis. Hiria is affected with Chronic Bronchitis & I [248] » intend examining his chest with the stethescope on Sunday. Have finished a sermon in Dwight on the Unity of God. Saturday, November 9: Today reading S. & A. Cooper on Hernia & Laennec's life by Forbes. On finishing Macintosh on diseases of the Abdomen shall peruse Laennec on those of the Chest. For the last six months professional reading has been too much neglected and next to Theology & the cultivation of personal religion, it is the duty which has the strongest claims on my time & attention—'tis true that mere reading without having the "book of Nature" as a guide & reference will make a comparatively slight impression on the mind but let me use the means I possess—I cannot too much regret opportunities lost, which perhaps will never recur—the summer of 1831 was the time I ought to have devoted to Clinical pursuits; but alas amusement took the place of every thing good & useful. Got out Young's Night Thoughts for tomorrow's perusal. Sunday, November 10: Read two nights of Young lastnight & three today & am much struck with the grandeur, sublimity & forcibleness of the thoughts, how important the admonitions, alas how neglected by me. Since I began Dwights Sermons, thoughts regarding my Soul's welfare have frequently occupied my mind & I have nightly addressed myself to my beneficent Creator, who I trust has begun the good work of my redemption— may his grace preserve, strengthen & keep me from backsliding & falling off so that my blessed Redeemer may not have shed his blood in vain for me. I pray God that the religious principles instilled in my youthful mind by my revered Grandmother which have so long been dormant in a breast distracted with the cares & pleasures of the world may now be ripened to a glorious fruition. Have read two sermons in Dwight on the Eternity & Immutability of God & on His Omniscience & Omnipresence. Have undertaken the task of teaching John McKie, the man who attends me to read & today wrote him an alphabet. He is a well dispositioned and steady lad & deserving of encouragement. Have occasionally since Mr. H's departure endeavoured to make the Indians acquainted with the existence of a Supreme Being, his creation of the world & Commandments to Man—the great obstacle to success is my ignorance of the language. Monday, November 11: Tempted by the fineness of the day, went after breakfast to the lake & blazed away killing two ducks & a sniper—lay concealed in the brushwood by margin & employed two boys to drive the ducks opposite the spot. After dinner practised with rifle at 100 paces & made a few tolerable shots, while thus engaged about sunset Lacheilen, the indian who went hence with Mr. Heron, made his appearance & delivered [249] me a note from that gentleman dated Cowlitz Portage 9th Currt. desiring me to send a canoe to meet him at the Chute & hoping that I may not be off before his arrival—so when I thought my self almost certain of wintering here I have got the route and I know not whither (a ball by the way) — it appears I am to be a passenger of Ryan's & Mr. Dalys seems to fear that he has already left this place. Have been giving the reins to my imagination in conjectures as to my destination—Millbank the most probable, next Vancouver & lastly I may accompany Ryan to the S. ward as supercargo, perhaps to California for cattle; but the third supposition "in toto" is very improbable as there are many better persons at Vancouver. Tuesday, November 12: Up at dawn & dispatched the large canoe manned by Indians to the Chute, sent a brief note to Mr. H. by Lachalet. Mr. H. will probably reach the Chute tonight & arrive here early tomorrow. Gave audience after breakfast to Challicoom, Uschotston (Babyar) & some other strangers who arrived last night. Am still ignorant whether my letters have been in time for the homeward bound vessel altho' I have sifted & resifted Lacheilen, nor can I learn that any have arrived for me with the express, so that I am on thorns till Mr. H. arrives. Wednesday, November 13: Loitering about all day. Mr. H. arrived at sunset accompanied by Ouvrie & six porkeaters as the new comers are called—my letters were too late for the Ganymede which contrary to all expectations sailed about the 20th of September. David Douglas who accompanied Mr. Finlayson in the Dryad to Oahu, undertook to forwd. the box of plants &c but left it at Fort George on the plea that it was too slight! Mr. Finlayson is to send the letters from Oahu. Mr. H. has seen two letters for me in the Express package—they are despatched by Ryan who sailed the 31st. Ult: Millbank is my destination where I am to succeed Mr. Anderson, who is required at Vancouver. Have been sitting with H all the evening receiving his budget of news. Cholera has nearly disappeared from all parts of Europe & America. Thursday, November 14: With Heron most of the day. Intermittent has been very severe this season, Gairdner has had an hospital erected & has treated from 2 to 300 cases. Hope he has written me an account of the disease—its treatment—a great mortality among the Indians as far south as the Buonaventura & the Snake Party have lost two men by the malady & have all severely suffered. They arrived about the end of October & brought in a thousand beaver. Friday, November 15: Busy packing & trading with Indians—a report brought tonight that the Cadboro' has been wrecked off Cape Flattery. 25° . Saturday, November 16: Occupied as yesterday. Have tonight squared a/c with the shop & find myself Cr. 29/-—which sum shall be placed to my Cr. a/c at Vancouver. Have taken in thermomr. — discontinued observations on the weather, Sunday, November 17: Today has been by no means so well spent as last Sunday—the whole forenoon was spent in examining the furs & the tools which have been in use and of which several are not forthcoming. Since Monday, worldly affairs have more exclusively occupied my attention to the neglect of the more important affairs which concern my salvation—greater exertions on my own part & humble prayer to the Almighty for assistance are necessary and may God grant that I may not be a castaway. Monday, November 18: Engaged all day about the store where a man has been occupied in examining & repairing the provision bags—also in the forenoon traded upwards of fifty beaver from Scadchet & Sannahomish almost entirely for Duffle. Mr. H. daily expects twenty men from Vancouver & probably a gentleman, but if the latter does not come at present he will appear during the winter. After the men arrive Mr. H. is to set out for Fort Langley & to pass the winter there—a new establishment is to be built either on Whidbeys island or the vicinity & Yale is to command the party sent there. Tuesday, November 19: Engaged today nearly as yesterday. Settled account with washer-woman. Gave her a blanket, a shirt, 4 ft striped Cotton, a cotton neckcloth & stiffner, a pair of old trowsers & a vest—7 knives & a gross & a half gilt rings besides a multitude of trinkets. Have had a number of the Quarterly Review from Mr. Heron which have been looking into. Propose going to the Nusqually tomorrow morning a duck shooting, accompanied by Lacheilen & Perrin, a gigantic half breed steerman who came with Mr. H. withal a good shot & most accomplished scamp. Wednesday, November 20: Up before dawn & set out for the Nusqually where we arrived after nearly an hour's paddling—startling immense flocks of geese & ducks—landed about V2 a mile up from entrance & endeavoured in vain to get a shot at the flocks of geese passing overhead. Perrin more successful knocked one down. Fired at an eagle & did not kill—however to be brief, the result of the day's sport was 14 birds, 4 of which fell by my gun—as the tide advanced, the geese flew away out of sight probably to the plains where they resort in great numbers to feed on the young & tender grass—the ducks retired to the marshes behind where there was no cover or concealment for the gunner, so that a pair on the wing was most frequently our mark. Thursday, November 21: Engaged all day about the store & in finishing [251] packing. Tonight have been summing up the amt. of furs procured here since the 13th June & it comes to more than £1700—at less than the average price for which furs sell at home. Twenty thousand beaver were shipped from Vancouver in Septr. the greatest return yet made from the Columbia. Friday, November 22: Had a stroll along the prairie—attended by Lacheilen, afterwards making a diving course through the wood came down on the Nusqually Marsh close to an indian wigwam which seen at a distance on Wednesday seemed to be picturesquely situated—it is placed on a solitary grassy flat at the base of the steep cedar clothed bank & bordered posteriorly with hazel & other bushes in their autumnal garb which makes a fine contrast with the deep green of the giants on the hill behind—at high water the sea washes almost up to the threshold & at ebb tide, the sands are crowded with ducks & geese — a snug little cottage a l'anglais with its stockyard &c would look well aye charming in this spot. Shot a small duck on the wing — a great many small plovers or sandpipers. Returned by dusk. Saturday, November 23: At home all day. Skinned a small hawk, which have not examined—have seen several of the same species both at the small lake here & at the Nusqually where have seen them dart at a flock of ducks. Have borrowed from Mr. H. the first volume of Goldsmith's Animated Nature which shall tonight commence. Have given Mr. H. the following articles for which he is to have my accot. credited: 1 doz slides 3d., 3 doz W. Clasps at 3/-, 2 doz smaller do. at —, 1/3 doz Gilt Clasps at 3/- — in all 14/5. Sunday, November 24: Have had similar weather since the 14th with not a shower of rain & scarcely any wind, which may account for the nonappearance of the Cadboro'. Ouvrie was dispatched on Monday to the Noosla- alum country to make enquiries regarding her. Today have been reading Young's Night Thoughts—Night the Vth—10 P.M.—a light hazy sheet of cloud concealing firmament—a large but indistinct halo encircling the moon. Monday, November 25: Ouvrie returned this morning, having journeyed as far as New Dungeness without hearing of the Cadboro'. After breakfast two men arrived from Vancouver. Mr Ogden arrived there by the Lama on the 19th & sent these men hither to bring back his private letters in case the vessel might still be here. There are bad news from Millbank—a man who had been repeatedly thrashed by Mr. Manson, deserted & went among the Indians. Mr. Manson failing by other means to bring him back seized a chief & kept him as a prisoner. The indians surrounding the fort at night seized a man who had gone out for water & said they would keep him until [252] their chief was released—a cannon was then fired which killed 5 & wounded 3 savages—afterwards an exchange of prisoners took place but the deserter had not appeared on the 13th Novr. — he has probably fallen a sacrifice to his own rashness & the fury of the relatives of the men who were slain. Mr M. has refused to pay for those killed until the runaway be restored. After the affray work was suspended at the fort & those who carried in water were guarded by an armed party on the gallery. Peace was made before the Lama sailed but in what manner we have not learn't. Tuesday, November 26: Have been counting furs & comparing with expenditure of goods &c. Tonight have been reading Young & have been led into a train of serious reflection by some of the passages. The Indians report that a cannon has been heard tonight. Wednesday, November 27: Occupied in the store all day, writing &c. Ouvrie sent off to trade dried salmon & look out for the Cadboro'—he is to return tomorrow night. Am now reading the first volume of Goldsmith's Animated Nature, he is a great admirer of Buffon & styles him an excellent man. Thursday, November 28: No accounts of vessel & Ouvrie has not yet returned. Indians now assembling at the Nusqually, there being no salmon at Stellacoom or the Sequallitch. Mr. Ogden crossed the Bar on the 17th or 18th current & found no Cadborough in Baker's Bay, so that Ryan has now been at least 12 days at sea. Friday, November 29: Ouvrie appeared this morning & with a lugubrious visage mentioned his having narrowly escaped drowning from the canoes nearly filling with water. He brings no intelligence of the Cadboro'. Reading Goldsmith on Volcanoes & Earthquakes. Saturday, November 30: Started by moonlight this morning for the Nusqually Marsh, attended & paddled by Pierrish & spent the forenoon in wading about sometimes over the knees in water, very rarely getting a shot at the ducks which flew overhead. Knocked down the first but afterwards fired several times unsuccessfully. Suffering from cold & tired of such sport went to the indian lodge mentioned on the 2 & squatted before a blazing fire—breakfasted on broiled venison & salmon. Feeling thereafter more comfortable set out for home on foot by the sea shore. Killed a large duck at 72 paces—the best shot my gun has yet made. Met a wounded chevreuil pursued by a dog—it rushed into the sea where I followed & killed it by a stroke with the butt-end of gun which broke in the effort. Returned for Pierrish & had the dog conveyed home in the canoe. Sunday, December 1: My fears have not been groundless—on getting [253] out of bed this mg. I felt a sharp pain in the left inguinal region & on touching the spot perceived a tenderness & cannot doubt but that it is occasioned by a small hernia. For two or more years have noticed a greater fulness at the left abdominal ring than at the right but this did not attract attention till my return from Mt Rainier this summer, when the tumor appeared somewhat larger—and then its being a hernia first occurred to me, but feeling no uneasiness in the part & recollecting its previous existence &c I dismissed the thought, now however further delay would be the height of temerity and I shall write to Vancr. by the return of the men for a truss. In the recumbent posture the tumor disappears entirely as well as the tenderness. Have taken some sulphate of soda to clear out the canal. Monday, December z: In stooping, felt some sharp twitches in tumor this morning & since, have kept as much in the house as possible. Still no account of the Cadborough & the worst surmises may be entertained if nothing transpires before this day week. Tuesday, December 3: Have felt little pain in tumor today and hope it may resume the tranquil state it existed in previous to Sunday—it was wrong in me not to send for a truss sooner and I feel grateful to the Almighty that I have been warned of my danger in so gentle manner. Have all day been reading Goldsmith, on the origin of rivers, saltness of sea water &c. Wednesday, December 4: Read Young & Dwight till a late hour last- night — a little in Goldsmith today—but have engaged with H. as we are preparing to dispatch a party for goods & provisions to Ft. Langley. Thursday, December 5: P. Charles & party dispatched this forenoon to Ft. Langley for a supply of goods & provisions—we having despaired of the Cadboro's coming. Pierre however returned about 8 PM—having been informed by a party of Noosclalum that the vessel was in the Sound in the Soquamish country not far from Challicoom's summer residence—they said she had lost a mast—this intelligence proved exceedingly welcome to us & I am to start in the boat tomorrow morning to meet the Schooner & receive my letters. Friday, December 6: Started before dawn, in the boat, which is manned by 5 able fellows & are now 6 P.M. encamped near the rocky islet & opposite the entrance of the Snuamish river—had to pull in the forenoon against a strong tide & were exposed to several heavy showers of rain— the stupendous Rainier was embosomed in cloud, as we passed the Poyallipa Bay—the snow dappled summits to N.—have not received any accession of snow since the summer. No accounts of vessel but the indian report was too particular to be doubted—they said she lay some days at New Dungc ness & that they themselves were on board. 254 Saturday, December 7: Pushed off at daybreak & pulled to the point where McD & I made our first encampment in summer trip & prepared a sail by fixing two blankets to square yards above & below—joining the edges of blkts together by wooden pins & hoisting our square sail by means of temporary pulley fastened to mast, before we embarked the Cadboro' was descried rounding a distant point beating up against the inauspicious breeze. Cheered by the sight we set sail & scudded along briskly for an hour and a half when being near to the vessel we took to the oars & after some trouble I got on board and soon getting over the necessary salutations & congratulations found myself alone in the cabin with my letters before me & having given them a hasty perusal got Mr. Ogden's private letters, dined & took leave of Ryan. Sunday, December 8: By dint of travelling nearly all night reached home about 12 o'clock today & this afternoon have been more leisurely reading letters—my father & Alick are well — they write on the same sheet and date Feby. 12—things were then going on more favorably than I hoped or expected. A. mentions the death of Mr. I. Galbraith by Cholera & also that of Henderson the foreman in Combwork (by the same malady) whose widow is most probably left destitute. The Cholera Hospital was broken up in October. Thereafter John Sisson accomplished the darling object of his soul & was appointed Clerk in the Fever Hospital, but he had only officiated for a fortnight when the disease seized him, doubtless yet elated with success, & in a few days put a period to his life. What a solemn and impressive warning is this to me to prepare for death—truly "the race is not to the swift, nor the battle to the strong". Of all the students who acted in North Albion St Sisson was the most indefatigable and persevering in his pathological researches & the one whose frame seemed most steeled against the encroachments of the pestilence but he fell a victim to fever which many of a more delicate & susceptible constitution recovered from— witness Irving Forsyth &c. Monday, December 9: The wind is still inauspicious—the boat has therefore been sent to convey thither the goods &c & probably tomorrow or next day I shall take up my quarters in the Cadboro'. Witnessed an Indian castrating one of their stallions—he severed the Spermatic Artery with a hair after baring it for nearly 4 inches. Tuesday, December 10: Busy today finishing packing &c & writing to Dr McL. & Gairdner—have requested the latter to send some hernia trusses to Millbank also the box of plants &c left at Ft. George by Douglas. Shall reserve the further examination of letters till I get on board 255 m* the Cadboro' when I shall immediately commence answering them as it is unlikely the vessel will call a second time at Millbank. Wednesday, December 11: The boat arrived this mg deeply laden & accompanied by the Cadb's long boat in charge of the 2d mate—Hanson, an American. The vessel is lying about 16 miles above the Sound & has there found a convenient station for wood & water where she is to remain two days. Probably Quartermaster Harbour. I shall join her with our boat tomorrow. Have now lived about six months at Nusqually & in Mr Heron's society and during that period we have never interchanged a syllable of altercation. H. is possessed of much gentlemanlike feeling on many subjects—, is well informed. We have agreed to correspond. Thursday, December 12: Breakfasted about sunrise & embarking soon after set out for the Cadboro' which I reached at noon—the day has been gloomy with frequent and heavy showers of rain—a Southerly breeze carried us down about half way but then died away. We are now anchored at the S. end of Macdonalds peninsula about a mile below the Puyallipa Bay. Friday, December 13: Near the S. end of Whidbey's Island—Began to write to Alick this forenoon. Borrowed from the Captain—The Pirate in 2 vols published at New York—have today finished one of them & this has recalled to mind the days when a thoughtless schoolboy at Inverness I first perused it—it was I think in 1822 just after A & I were emancipated from Aunt T's thraldom, & placed under the less irksome & capricious authority of "Red Clarkie". If ever I enter into the married state may a gentle Brenda be the partner of my joys & sorrows. Saturday, December 14: New Dungeness. This morning were in sight of the much admired plain on Whidbey's island & after breakfast—there being no wind I proceeded in the jolly boat to examine it. Landed at Pt Hudson— in formation & appearance it much resembles "Prospect Heights" visited in summer & which by the way is the next point to the southward. There is from 80 to 100 acres of plain, consisting of a black loamy soil mixed with sand & about 2 feet deep as seen at the face of bank. Descended to the beach & made with speed for the large plain, which appeared to be about a mile distant, but was warned by a signal gun from the Schooner to proceed on board—a heavy breeze from N.W. had kicked up the sea which tossed our bark most unmercifully & I feared would have upset her before we reached the vessel, but Providence was kind. Shot a cormorant. The view from Pt. Hudson is very fine—in the foreground is a wide expanse of water reaching nearly as far as the eye can reach to N. where the hills of Vancouver's [256] island skirt to N.W.—the view along the straits to their termination is unobstructed to S. you see a long way up the sound—Cockle Point, Ryan's Pt &c & opposite, the lofty snow clad range of Olympus arise, fronted by lower ranges of hills & Protection Isle & New Dungeness. Sunday, December 15: Passed Cape Flattery this morning & have been all day striving against a S.W. gale. Dreadfully sea sick. Monday, December 16: Still sea sick—many degrees worse than during voyage in the Ganymede. Tuesday, December 17: Better but have no appetite for food—have been reperusing in Dwight a sermon on the Sovereignity of God & begun one on the Heavens, borrowed a work from the 2nd Mate on the war of independence in S. America with a history of the states composing the different republics from their first discovery down to 1826—the work contains much information especially on commercial subjects, but is badly arranged & the style rather inflated. Wednesday, December 18: Again squeamish. Thursday, December 19: Am myself again. Ate more today than I have altogether since Saturday & my feasts even today were very moderate. Reading on the revolution in Mexico, Guatemala & Columbia. Are to-night within 20 or 30 miles of Cape Swaine & if things go favorably shall reach Millbank in good time tomorrow. Have been unable to get on with letter- writing as I had hoped, but I have been arranging the materials in my mind & once I commence will soon get through. Friday, December 20: At 8 this morning a terrific gale from S.E. commenced & continued to blow furiously till 5 P.M.—the mg. was pretty clear & we saw land about 15 or 20 miles distant—it was flat bordering the sea but a short distance back rugged & mountainous & in the clefts of mts patches of snow were visible. During the day it was thick & foggy & heavy showers of rain & sleet fell. Our situation in the mg. was critical, we having got into a kind of bay at the entrance of which there are several sunken rocks not marked on the Chart, but which owing to the great swell were today visible. Are now 10 miles to Northward of Cape Swaine—after 5 P.M. a N.W. breeze sprung up & soon dispersed the clouds. Saturday, December 21: Lastnight being fine we stood in for land till 12 & then lay to till 6 this morning—about 7.land was described close under the lee bow & the sea breaking furiously on the rocks, put about ship & by the mercy of the Almighty escaped—the danger was imminent & inspired all who were on deck with great consternation. I was in bed & did not hear of it till we were several miles out at sea—the weather has brought [257] showers of sleet & hail. From 2 till 6 P.M. a tremendous gale from E.S.E. more severe even than that of yesterday. Have finished the book borrowed from 2nd Mate. Sunday, December 22: Steering northwest by W during night but surprised today to find our position 40 miles to northward of Cape Swaine— the day has been tolerably clear but wind variable. Since noon steering E. by S. & about 3 P.M. it was thought that we were off Point Day abt 20 ms are keeping under easy sail till morning—the Capt: is not certain as to the appearance of the land supposed to be Pt Day. I have been reading Dwight. Monday, December 23: Anchored off Fort McLoughlin. At dawn today were about 30 or 40 miles from land for which we stood in, but frequently lost sight of, owing to heavy showers of hail & sleet, driving up from westward & which as they passed over the land, completely obscured it—at noon it cleared up & the Captain recognized Point Day & was confirmed in his opinion by obtaining a good solar observation—we now set all sail & passed the Point about \V2 P.M. going nearly 10 knots before a westerly gale. Point Day is rendered conspicuous by 5 small rocky inlets, which stretch out from it in a line & as well as the mainland are thickly capped with pines & their sides being rugged, bare & rifted rocks against which the sea broke impetuously—the whole coast is rugged & "ironbound"—at 3 passed Cape Swaine, where the Sound is not more than 2 miles in breadth — in the distance isolated mountains filled up the space, standing in dim relief against the cloudy horizon generally their summits seemed pretty level, their shoulders rounded & flanks descending by a gradual & regular slope, in short, they resemble more or less closely Tonnahurish or Mouna Kala at Oahu, the only deviation from this form which I observed was where the summit is pyramidal—many were sprinkled with snow, indeed on every spot not covered by the forest, snow appeared. Got to Active's Cove by 7 PM. by the light of pale Cynthia, but still subject to occasional showers of sleet. After entering three or four inlets—reached the Fort by 11 P.M. & Ryan & I have since been on shore & seen Messrs Manson & Anderson. Tuesday, December 24: Ft. McLoughlin—Millbank Sound. Turned in about 3 this mg. but slept little—went on shore at 8 & breakfasted— afterwards accompanied Mr Manson round the Fort—it is 150 in one direction & 140 in the opposite—the inequalities of the surface preventing its being an equilateral—the houses are built of strong & massive materials & make those at Nusqually seem flimsy in my view—but Mr. Heron's ho. will bear comparison with any of them for point of neatness & the accuracy with which the logs are adapted to each other. Had some rifle 258: shooting with Mr Anderson. I made some good shots out of his rifle & winged a crow at about ioo yards. A. fires very well—he has received instructions to proceed to Vancouver in the Cadboro'. Ryan has been on shore this evening & we have been discussing rum punch,—with moderation however. Wednesday, Dcember 25: After breakfast we all got out on the gallery & fired till dinner time (noon) with rifles, guns &c. Mr. Manson made some excellent shots out of my rifle. I only tried at a distance of perhaps 300 yards & it being a new distance did not do well. Made some good shots with gun at about 100 paces sending the ball to the same spot three times successively. Passed the evening very agreeably. Sung several old Scotch ditties & the other gentlemen also tuned their pipes. Thursday, December 26: The only person who awoke in good trim was myself—mountain dew was our potation lastnight & headache & thirst has been the complaint this mg. Am now going on with letterwriting as the Cadboro is to sail in a few days. Friday, December 28(sic): Writing my father & Aleck. Prescribing for Mr Manson's two children, who are both slightly unwell—also saw sev. of the men who are ill & dressed the wounded arms of two indians—the wounds are on the dorsal aspect of forearms—are several square inches in extent & have been produced by the bite of the chief to whom the men are attached & who does them the favor of removing a few inches of cutis & cellular substance from the arm, when requested. Saturday, December 29 (sic): Brought my father's and Alick's letter nearly to a conclusion & wrote one page crossed to Uncle James' lady with the composition of which however I am not too well satisfied. Watch is regularly kept at night by four men, two on each gallery & an officer sits up with each watch to see that they sing out all's well, at short intervals. Mr Manson looks after the men on duty from 6 till 10 P.M. & the other two watches from 10 till 2 & 2 till 6 A.M. fall to the lot of Mr. Anderson, Mr. Dunn, & Faigneau, the captain of the workmen & carpenter—these three are on guard by turns—consequently every third one keeps watch in bed—yesterday the weather was wet & rainy & the snow had completely disappeared, but during the night a keen frost set in & this has been a charming day. Anderson is making meteorological observations, which I must immediately resume. Sunday, December 30: (sic): Had a walk with Anderson after breakfast—we visited the two lakes which give origin to the burn, entering the sea a short distance from the fort & in autumn abounds in salmon—the gentlemen used to amuse themselves this fall in catching the fish by means of a 259 large iron hook fixed to the extremity of a pole 5 or 6 feet long, which hooked the salmon by the belly—they have in this manner caught ioo in the space of two hours. Monday, December 31 (sic): Set out after breakfast to the lake & skated for an hour. I had the better skates & consequently excelled A. in racing & at shinty. Practised outside, but did not find myself expert as formerly. Since returning home have been busy writing. Had little enjoyment in skating from the want of company. Tuesday, December 31 (sic): Busy writing at every moment which politeness did not require me to spend in the mess room. Wednesday, January 1, 1834: Being much fagged from the irregular hours observed lately—as I seldom have had six hours continued sleep since arrival, turned in betimes—but lay awake until the New Year came in & exchanged greetings with Anderson, whose watch it was—up early this mg & at work with the pen—have written my father & Aleck long letter, also one to James's Lady & one to himself, one to Dr Hooker, to Gairdner, Heron & intend sending an epistle to Macdonald with introductory notes to my father & Uncle Alexr. — shall also write William Ponton. Thursday, January 2: Completed the writing proposed yesterday. Last- night was spent with great conviviality and the song & glass circulated till 11 P.M. when the skipper pretty considerably corned, was handed by Anderson & myself on board the Cadboro. All letters & despatches closed up today & delivered to the Captain tonight. Anderson has embarked. Altho' our acquaintance has only been of ten days duration, feel considerable regret in parting with Anderson tho' rather hasty 'tis said I have found him a frank open hearted young man well educated & of good abilities. We have unbosomed a good deal to each other—I more so to him than to any person since leaving home—generally we have passed two or three hours in chatting after getting into bed, a pleasure I have not before enjoyed for a long time. A. intends he says to espouse the daughter of Mr. Birnie's at Nasse (with a half breed woman) as soon as she is marriageable & in his case I think it the most prudent plan which can be adopted. Have agreed to correspond with Anderson. Have sent a letter to Mr. J. Douglas regarding a book entrusted to him for me by Macdonald but which has not appeared—it is the journal of one Francher, who has passed several years in the Columbia. Friday, January 3: Busy getting room in order—have placed all books on shelves & there has been a new shelf erected for the medicines. Tonight chatting with Mr M till izVz—it being my second watch. [260] Saturday, January 4: Arranging medicines & labelling bottles today. Have had a convenient dressing table with a hole for washing basin placed at one of the windows & a small desk at the other. Mr Manson has been sitting with me till now—8V2 P.M. Am going to bed, it being my third watch. Sunday, January 5: Busy in the store all the forenoon supplying the people with tobacco &c, opening packages of goods received p Cadboro'. Tonight have been reading Dwight—an excellent sermon on Man—have of late been too neglectful of my religious exercises, but must resume them as practised at Nusqually. Monday, January 6: Busy with the pen till dinner—afterwards practising with Mr Manson at rifle-shooting—he has altered the sights, by thinning the fore one & changing the form of the posterior—after tea chatting till now 8 P.M. when am going to turn in. Tuesday, January 7: Writing A.M. Since dinner reading one of Hogg's Winter Evg. Tales Love Adventures of Mr. E. Cochrane—the old gentleman depicts the joys of the matrimonial state excellently & makes the just observation altho' himself a bachelor, that even if a man is unfortunate in the choice of a partner yet the kindly affections are powerfully called forth by his smiling offspring & on these he can bestow that regard the exercise of which is so delightful but which the bachelor can find no object whereon to exert. Wednesday, January 8: Practising with rifle in the forenoon. P.M. Writing & parading gallery with Mr. Manson—three canoes of Bilwhoola Indians arrived—they inhabit the interior parts of Sound & are said to furnish most beaver of any tribes visiting Milbank. Thursday, January 9: Having on Monday missed the turnscrew of percussion gun—went today to the lake where Anderson & self skated & made diligent search along the bank but without effect. Since his departure A. has daily occupied a share in the cogitations of my breast or to speak more sensibly I have been daily thinking about him. I have certainly taken a liking to him and wish we had been longer together to have known each other better, our communications can now only take place by letter & as he will probably have the first opportunity I will see on what footing he places himself—whether that of a friend or mere acquaintance—if he assumes that of the former I will not hesitate to respond in the same tone. I feel much the want of a friend to whom I might unbosom my joys & griefs—a wife is the only being to whom one could unreservedly pour out his soul, but one with whom could be enjoyed a sweet communion of mind is not to be met with in this country & it is only when I abandon the hope and wish of laying [261] my bones in old Scotland that I will ever think of uniting myself in the most sacred of all ties with a female of this country. When a person has resolved to settle in the "pays sauvage" say Red River or the proposed Wallamatte colony I think the sooner he takes a wife the better. Manson I am sure is much happier with his wife and two pretty children around him than were he a lone bachelor, & leading the sensual life, indulged in by most of the gentlemen, who live in single blessedness. Friday, January 10: Writing A.M. P.M. at the geography of France in Guthrie & reading some of Hoggs Winter Evening Tales—Duncan Campbell, I recollect well to have perused at Campbelton I think in 1821 or 22 & then it was a great favorite with me. Read it today with little emotion, and the volume altogether appears a very mediocre production altho' some of the stories doubtless are pathetic. Saturday, January 11: Rifle shooting A.M. hit the bulls eye once at 100 paces—supposed distance. PM. being affected with headache read part of the bride of Lammermoor. Sunday, January 12: About 6 inches of snow fallen since yesterday. Having had a conversation with Anderson on Duelling, (in which I opposed the practice & he did not say much in its defence, but that it was a necessary evil) I yesterday, the subject recurring to my thoughts, examined Paley on that head & today Dwight — from the perusual of both, more particularly the latter, the great sinfulness of duelling, appears in a much stronger light than I have previously viewed it & I have come to a determination of neither acting as principal or second in affairs of that nature. Anderson does not seem to have thought much on these subjects. Monday, January 13: Have been moving about all day looking after the men—shot some crows with buck shot & wounded a small woodpecker whose skin I shall preserve—have donned pilot cloth vest, trowsers with which & duffle capot could brave much colder weather. Water in bedroom frozen at noon. Tuesday, January 14: Commenced watch at 2 A.M. & did not since go to bed, but now feel drowsy. Did not pass the time profitably but sat to finish The bride of Lammermoor, begun a few days ago—the last parting of Caleb with his young master is to me the most affecting scene in the work, I consider it the most natural—Caleb's pretending that Wolfs crag was on fire; to hide its poverty from the Marquis of Atholl is admirable. Examined woodpecker in the forenoon, it corresponds with the Picus Varius of Wilson. After dinner went out to look after the men & had a pretty [262] tedious ramble through the wood towards the northern point of the Cove. Shot a crow with ball at 15 or 20 paces distance. Wednesday, January 15: An illspent day. Thursday, January 16: More busy today than yesterday when felt most abominably indolent. Gummed the silken marks made by the Oahu ladies, Mrs. C. & T. into 12 nos & 18 nos. Prepared skin of Picus Varius. The burn is now frozen & the bay into which it disembogues is also for an extent of 2 or 300 yards covered with ice. After dinner skated for a short time on a smooth spot at the mouth of burn & astonished the natives who crowded around. Reading Guthrie on France. Friday, January 17: Reading a poem of Bloomfield's styled the "Banks of the Wye". It is an account of a 10 days excursion in Monmouthshire & gives some pretty descriptions of rural scenery & manners. Guthrie on France. Feel fagged & am going to court the approach of Somnus. Saturday, January 18: Reading the life of Adam Smith prefixed to his Wealth of Nations—he seems to have been on terms of the closest friendship with the Atheist David Hume, a proof that his own religious principles were not very strict—his biographer makes no remark on this point. In the afternoon Guthrie on France & skimmed over the Elegant Extracts in Verse belonging to Mr. Manson—it is just such a work as I should like to have, the finest passages are culled from all British Poets. It -will be useful at one's side in reading Johnson's Lives. Sunday, January 19: A depth of 4 or 5 in. of new fallen snow this morning. Ice disappearing from bay. Reading Paley's Moral Philosphy & a sermon—On our thinking more on our imperfections than our virtues, which he recommends as duty. Several of the Polynesians have today complained of Chilblains, some of which are of an aggravated character & will probably slough—the fellows have been very careless in not properly wrapping their toes during the late intensely cold weather & now that it has become milder they suffer for their former negligence. Monday, January 20: Having on Saturday read Goldsmith's life which is briefly given at the commencement of the volume of his miscellaneous works—today read his two comedies—The Goodnatured Man & She Stoops to Conquer & his poems The Traveller & Deserted Village. I am however getting into a bad habit, this desultory reading is productive of little or no improvement — must be immediately discontinued. Guthrie on the History of France of which I am deplorably ignorant, but by the aid of Guthrie & Fivas Beauties I will obtain a meagre outline of it. Mackintosh on Hooping Cough and Croup. [263] Tuesday, January 21: Visited the people at work at the S. point of bay & returned by dinner time in the canoe of Kaghetasso, a Bilbilla chief who was passing. After dinner showed him & Kyeet another of same tribe, Vancouver's chart of the Coast which seemed to gratify them much. Kyeet asked me where the Sun goes in the evening, whether he returns to the E. by passing under the earth (across as it were) or goes round by the N. or S. immediately under the horizon, this was his way of expressing himself. I do not know whether the question originally occurred to himself or was the result of some previous conversation with the whites. Kaghetasso is very inquisitive & seems desirous to become acquainted with our language. Wednesday, January 22: After breakfast prepared the skin of a scarf or snake bird shot on Monday. Cannot find it described in Wilson & have not looked into Cuvier. After dinner practised with rifle at crows & ducks out in the Bay. Afterwards visited the woods where work is going on & in returning at dusk cockshettled 3 ducks at one shot, close by the sawpit. Thursday, January 23: Am today a month at Fort McLoughlin. Have been perusing journal since 23rd Novr—the account given of the fracas here was incorrect as to the number of Indians killed—only one was seen to fall & he was slain by a ball from Anderson's rifle. A. was outside when the armed savages were seen rushing out of the woods in all directions, he sped into his room & arming with rifle & d.b. gun placed himself at the gate & fired three shots. Mr. Manson was on the gallery, looking out, when the men sallied forth for water & was the first to perceive the enemy & give the alarm, he then flew to the bastion & while the scuffle was going on, fired several charges of buckshot. No other shots were fired from the fort but showers of buckshot rattled on the East bastion from the Indians. The men 6 in number were surprised in a very awkward predicament, having been attending to the calls of Nature i.e. sacrificing to the Goddess Cloacina— they all got safely in except two, one of whom was carried off & the other broke loose after receiving a dreadful gash on the shoulder from the blow of an axe aimed at his head. As soon as firing commenced from the Fort, the Indians scampered, but several were wounded who afterwards had their wounds dressed by Mr Manson. Examined ducks shot yesterday but they do not correspond with any of Wilson's descriptions. Friday, January 24: At noon it felt warm & the duffle capot an encumbrance. Practising with rifle in forenoon & made some good shots. Shot a specimen of the Cedarbird described in Wilsons as the Bombycilla Caroliniensis—it is a beautiful marked bird the size of a thrush. One mild day lately I saw about a dozen flitting about among the bushes & Anderson mentioned his having seen it frequently during the summer—it is very [264] numerous in the U.S. & when fat is esteemed a delicacy at table, is also found in Mexico — not musical—food berries—& it is destructive in orchards. Saturday, January 25: Blowing almost a hurricane across the channel & the spray flies like drifting snow, however the weather is mild & beautiful. After breakfast crossed the burn on the ice a little below the fall & making a straight course through the cedar wood for about 50 yards came to what is called the plain which, being yet covered with snow, afforded me little matter for observation except as to the numerous deer tracks which mark its surface. Followed several a long way but did not start an animal—in the border of wood near the spot where men are at work found some recent lairs. Came home by sea beach & shot three ducks.—the Anas Perspicilata or Surf Duck & two I am not acquainted with. Prepared the skin of cedar bird.Finished Guthrie on France, have been looking at Pursch on the genus Rinus. Am now 9 P.M. going to turn in. Sunday, January z6: During watch this morning read Mackintosh on Pneumonia, but being drowsy, not with much attention. Forenoon—looked into Watt's on the mind & read some of his essays & composures on various subjects—also examined his poetical works—they breathe a spirit of deep & pure devotion & are characterized by elegance & chasteness of expression— some of those I read convey sentiments the same with passages in Young, altho not couched in such grand & sublime language. Afternoon—Dwight on the sentence pronounced on Man after his fall. After tea chatting with Mr. Manson till now 9 P.M. Again going to take up Dwight. During past week have made very little addition to my stock of knowledge & leisure time has been illspent, either in desultory reading or idle musing. Having to look after the workmen, cannot read much during the day & the system of watching observed I do not find favorable to study as regular hours would be. Monday, January 27: Passed the day in the woods looking after the axemen. Had Cowper along with me & spent an hour or two of short periods very agreeably in reading Retirement & some of the Miscellaneous Pieces. John Gilpin is most humourously written. In going to Portlock Point, (the southern point of bay & where work is going on) shot a large snake bird on the wing & being in a canoe got hold of it, but sending it home by an Indian I find it has not been received. The bird when swimming bears a striking resemblance to a snake only its long slender & curved neck appearing distinctly—it cannot be approached within shot by a canoe, but after rising it makes a long sweep ahead & returns to have a better view of its disturber, when it may easily be shot, as its flight is steady & horizontal. In the [265] evening killed a stock duck, but found it miserably lean & this is the condition of almost all the few found here. Tuesday, January 28: Set out for the woods after breakfast & after inspecting the woods—made a long tournee along the beach & in the wood at times. Shot a squirrel & soon found numerous fresh tracks of the Deer startled by the report. The tracks led back to the Plain which here approaches within 100 yards of the sea. Having an easterly exposure, it is nearly bare of snow and shows a dense covering of wirey grass & moss—however here & there small spots may be seen destitute of soil & stony. Killed a specimen of the Anas Clangula or Golden Eye Duck & in the morning another surf duck. Returned home in a small canoe which issued from a bay on the opposite shore of Sound, there a mile & a half broad. Wednesday, January 29: Incessant rain & sleet—a dense & unbroken sheet of cloud overspreading firmament S.E. The Fort Bay being sheltered by Point Portlock was quite unruffled today while there was somewhat of a sea outside. A NEly wind blows directly into bay, but the severe gale of the 25 th did not agitate the water sufficiently to disturb a vessel at anchor, much if at all. Passed forenoon in the woods & got soaking. Killed 3 ducks at one shot about 40 paces distant—also a large species of Colymbus, but which floated upwards with the tide—after dinner took gunlock to pieces & had it cleaned & put together by Folster, Blks. Evg.—Guthrie on Belgium. Finished Mackintosh on Pneumonia. Am now 10V2 P.M. going to take up Dwight. Had a conversation with Manson on Duelling, and freely expressed my sentiments on the subject—this evening have promised to show him what Dwight & Paley say on it. Thursday, January 30: Skinned Anas Clangula—visited workmen after dinner. Evg. Guthrie on Holland. By talking with Mr. Manson, have had a new arrangement of the watch—he is to take the first from 6 to 9 P.M. always —I the second 9 till 12—the third & fourth are to be kept in turns by Mr. Dunn, Faineant, the overseer or Master Carpenter & Folister, the Blacksmith. Friday, January 31: Forenoon in the woods—after dinner made a tournee through the plain with Mr M's rifle & found some recent deer tracks & lairs but no animals. Must soon write a description of the country around Ft McL. It will be a good exercise, if properly done. Saturday, February 1: Forenoon in the woods. Also visited workmen. P.M.—finished Guthrie on Holland. In going on the gallery at 10 P.M. to relieve the watch—just after I had stepped from the ladder, owing to the pitchy darkness of the night I walked over the edge & found myself 266 lying between two large carpenters' benches placed beneath, amid a quantity of rubbish, which fortunately broke my fall & I have escaped with only a slight bruize & abrasion on the right forearm. I cannot be too thankful to the Almighty for his care of me when so careless myself—a shorter fall has often destroyed life. Sunday, February 2: Have felt the influence of the weather and been rather dull & drowsy. Read Dwight on the Universality of Sin. This afternoon some of the men heard the report of a cannon—& immediately thereafter one of our guns was discharged—perhaps a vessel is approaching—but as the Indians have got a swivel they occasionally fire, it might have caused the report. Monday, February 3: This is my 22nd birthday but the fact never occurred to me until the day of the month was mentioned at tea. I have been in the woods all day & now feel tired. Tuesday, February 4: Passed the forenoon at home. Mr. Manson having gone out with his gun. Copied notes on the weather for January into the public Register. The mean tempr. for January is 28. It rained on four days. After dinner went out to look after the men. A few have been employed in clearing away the forest from Point Duncan, by which the prospect to Nwards is somewhat enlarged. This evening have had a long conversation with Manson. Mentioned as the tone of conversation bore that way, my father's unhappy second marriage, but now feel a regret at having done so. Wednesday, February 5: Lastnight while on the gallery at 11 P.M. saw a very brilliant globular meteor shooting along. Passed about an hour A.M. in rambling through the plain behind Point Portlock. Gathered in great abundance a lichen, I think, a species of Aenomya—it is in a fine state for preserving. Thursday, February 6: Forenoon in the woods. In firing at a duck while sitting on a log which extended some distance into the water at entrance of burn, the recoil of a piece overbalanced me & falling backwards I enjoyed an admirable semicupium (not legible) being ducked up to the middle in my flounderings for self extraction from amid the branches &c. P.M. Reading—The last of the Lairds, a production of Gait's—Aunt Tulloh has all the restless and "mercurial activity" of that well drawn character, Mrs Soorocks with this difference, that the former has been & still is entirely occupied with her own affairs. Since 1 till 10 P.M. have read the book but, good luck finished to the neglect of Guthrie & Mackintosh. Tis too bad. Friday, February 7: Forenoon in the woods, P.M. Reading Guthrie on Germany, & promenading gallery. Evg. Christison on Fish Poisons.— [267] particularly on the mischief occasionally produced by mussels, when eaten in any quantity. C. puts no faith in the opinion that the presence of copper does harm because no traces of that substance can be found by chemical analysis & its effects on the frame are dissimilar to those produced by mussels, which at times occasion gastroenteritic symptoms, & again disturbance of the nervous system with or without cutaneous eruption, which also appears alone. The only fact ascertained regarding deleterious action of mussels is that it is much modified by idiosyncracy—fish from the same bed or place or dish producing effects different with the different individuals & by some being eaten with impunity—McKintosh on Pthisis Pulmonalis. Saturday, February 8: Guthrie on Germany & the Elements of Astronomy. McK. as yesterday. Sunday, February 9: Reading Dwight during the day but not with sufficient attention—indeed my mind has been too much a prey to idle & evil thoughts. May God enable me to overcome the lusts & corruptions of a wicked & obdurate heart & to fashion it wholly after his commandments. In the evening reading Young & with a view of attuning the mind to devotional reading, took up Kirke White. Am now going to resume Dwight. 11 P.M. Monday, February 10: Passed forenoon in the woods. Read Kirke White. Fired 8 shots with fowling piece at a mark 45 yards distant & thrice came within a few inches 1 or 2 of bulls eye. Tuesday, February 11: Struck a Surf Duck with ball at 30 paces. Passed the day in the woods & read part of a sermon in Dwight but shall not again engage in such a solemn duty, while secular concerns require some attention. Am now going to resume Dwight on the divinity of Christ. Wednesday, February iz: Passed the greater portion of the day in the woods, reading Belisaire. Also in the trading shop for some time & saw several skins bartered. Indians are now beginning to flock in. Thursday, February 13: Charbonneau, a rascally Canadian noted for laziness & dishonesty ( having repeatedly been detected in acts of fraud) was this morning informed on, as having converted the space behind my house into a temple of Cloacina, when disturbed after dusk & of publicly boasting of his audacious filthiness. I thought it right to make an example of him to the others & accordingly after breakfast on encountering him saluted his seat of honor, the offending member with a hearty kick & his mug with a whack which drew claret. I repeated the applications once or twice & at length he grappled; & scratched my face in several places. Just as I was going to try a trip, Mr. Manson came up & hurled the fellow to the earth & another kick on the posterior completed his punishment. Having threatened [268] to desert, he was fettered for a short time, but set to work at the Bastion afterwards—about 2 P.M. he disappeared, having probably dropped from the Bastion by a rope. I searched for him among the felled trees around the Fort (which afford excellent concealment) & about dusk 4 men were sent out for the same purpose—they found him at Boston's house in the grasp of that Chief who was bringing him towards the Fort—he has been ironed. Mr. Manson's interference probably saved my credit as my opponent is a brawny fellow of nearly 6 feet—however my pommelling him will show the others that I am not to be trifled with & with proudence & firmness I may for a long time find it unnecessary to resort to the same measures, which I cannot approve of altho' the custom of the country &c render it almost necessary for a newcomer. Friday, February 14: Charbonneau fettered & manacled has been confined in the ground glory of the E Bastion. Feel fagged. Reading Belisaire in the forenoon. Saturday, February 15: Practising with rifle at loons &c while at Point Portlock. Struck a crow at 60 paces. P.M. Indians numerous. Bilbilla or Millbank & Kitamats from the Canal Delaredo or Principe, I am not sure which, they are terribly dilatory in bartering. Sunday, February 16: Reading Dwight on the Divinity of Christ— the perusal of these sermons give me more clear & correct ideas of the character of the Redeemer & I bless & thank the Almighty that I have provided myself with such excellent work. In the evg have been reading two sermons in Paley with which was much pleased. Monday, February 17: In the woods the greater part of the day. Read a small portion of Belisaire—Guthrie on Germany & Austria Proper & McKin- tosh introductory remarks on Diseases of the Circulatory System. Tuesday, February 18: Snow during night, 6 inches deep. Forenoon in the woods & read a portion of Belisaire & looking after people. Looked into Levizac. Evg Guthrie on Bohemia & Moravia—McK. as yesterday. A pack of wolves are prowling in the eminence behind the fort & make a most hideous noise—one has passed close by the pickets in going to the Beach. Wednesday, February 19: Ten men were sent this morning to Spruce Bay to square wood for the large dwelling house & after an early breakfast I followed them & did not return till sunset. Came home by the plain & found numerous deer tracks & in the vicinity of the Fort tracks of the wolf were abundant. Neglected taking a book with me. Corrected some preconceived notions regarding the course of ship channel &c. Shall take compass with me tomorrow & make notes for my account of the scenery around Fort. [269] Thursday, February 20: Bay at mouth of burn covered for an extent of 200 square yards with ice. At Spruce Bay from after breakfast till dusk— went & returned by water. Passed the day reading Belisaire & Watts—the latter is a writer I am very fond of. Feel a good deal fagged having worked my passages with paddle. Made no use of compass. Friday, February 21: All day in the woods with people. Paddled thither alone, but am still unexpert. Acted as steersman in returning. Reading Watts. Visited by several parties of Indians who loaded their canoes with the splintered wood. Reed from one several Bilbilla words. Have tonight been arranging & putting in a portable form a vocabulary given me by Mr Dunn & purpose making additions to it tomorrow. Saturday, February 22: All day at Spruce Bay & made considerable additions to vocabulary. Read little, being kept on the alert by the frequent arrival of Indians, who however showed no bad disposition. Shall take my pistols on Monday. Tonight reading Guthrie on Prussia, but interrupted by a visit from Mr Manson. Sunday, February 23: Reading Dwight, a refutation of the Unitarian Doctrines. Monday, February 24: Accompanied by Faineant set out this morning in search of wood proper for the posts & beams of our large buildings, the Store & Dwelling house. Crossed the channel which I suppose a mile & a half in breadth & ascended the hill opposite Fort for about 3Aths of its height to a spot marked yesterday & where we found some gigantic white Pines or as the Canadians say "Epineete". Embarking we proceeded along shore to the Southward, occasionally landing but found only a few good pines on a point about a league from Fort where Boston & his people had their winter village —the frames of about a dozen houses are still standing & some are formed of round posts & beams from a foot to 18 inches in diameter & have a very substantial appearance—the floors are considerably elevated above the ground & are accessible by staircases which also remain entire but all the boards &c have been carried away to form the summer habitations. Crossed from Boston's Point to Western Shore but discovered no wood. Reached Point Portlock by 12 & sending Faineant home in an indian canoe, proceeded to Spruce Bay where I remained till dusk with the people. Feeling tired after tea, lay down in bed & now 11 P.M. am going to take up Dwight on the Incarnation of Christ. Tuesday, February 25: Greater part of day at Spruce Bay. Evg reading the Newgate Calendar at Mr. Manson's & since, Guthrie on Prussia & Silesia. Wednesday, February z6: Started in the morning for Spruce Bay, but r 270 ] turned off towards Point Mayors & in returning shot a large grey goose but unfortunately in reloading the ramrod fell into the water & sunk. After dining about i P.M. crossed in an indian canoe to the Rocky Islands where Kyeet's people have taken up their summer quarters. On nearing the Shore, men, women & children poured out of every house shouting & yelling, as floundering through the water they approached my canoe. This, at first rather startled me & I thought they were shouting in triumph for having a white chief in their power, but I showed no symptoms of alarm, but entered a chief's house & sat down on a chest placed in the middle of the house for my use & about fifty Indians squatted around me, apparently in great glee. Was soon joined by my old acquaintance Kaghetasso, who invited me to visit his house which was on another islet close by. Ate some dried salmon in Uticheet's my first entertainer's house & afterwards proceeded to Kaghetasso's whence set out to examine some small bays along the coast beyond Point Mayors where Mr Manson supposed sand might be found. On inspection however the beach was found to consist of stones about the size of a 28 to the lb ball on an average smaller than any I have seen elsewhere; but there was no trace of sand. Thursday, February 27: Made an excursion in canoe in search of good pines & went about two miles beyond Spruce Bay to Northward. Found good wood only in two situations, one half a mile beyond the spot where we are at present employed & the other at the extreme point of survey, where there is also a quantity of sand on the beach. Friday, February 28: 1834. With the people, a little beyond Point Duncan, where they are squaring cedar for the beams & middle post of Dwellinghouse. Reading Belisaire. Tonight began the 2nd volume of Mackintosh as intend omitting for the present the perusal of the latter part of first on Diseases of the Circulatory System. Saturday, March 1, 1834: With the axemen all day. Examined the bank for sand & clay having found traces of both yesterday, but discovered nothing adapted either as to quality or quantity for chimnies—the depth of the soil is generally from 8 in. to 1 foot, below that the rock meets the spade. Took herbarium to the woods & changed plant papers. This evening a band of Sebassa Indians arrived & having got tipsy one of their number was rather troublesome. They are a thievish & very immoral tribe, much dreaded by their neighbours, in fact the Youkiltahs of this quarter. Mean tempr of Febry—38°. Sunday, March 2—1834: As usual occupied in the store in the forenoon [271] supplying the wants of the people. Have read two sermons in Dwight on the Personal Preaching of Christ. Monday, March 3—1834: Up before 7—& breakfasted at 8, dined at 1—& supped at 6—a new arrangement as the people now go out to work before breakfast. At home all day, no squaring party having been sent out on account of the rascally Sebassa's presence—he has gone on a visit to Wasash, the most powerful of the Bilbilla Chiefs. Tuesday, March 4—1834: Did not stir beyond the precincts of the Fort, most of the people being employed in clearing away the stumps & bushwood outside. Tonight reading McKintosh's preliminary observations on Diseases of the Brain. Wednesday, March 5—1834: All day moving about the Fort, or sitting in the door of Bastion reading the article Duelling in the Young Mans Best Companion—(by the way) made one trip to Pt Portlock—Tonight Guthrie on Spain. Thursday, March 6—1834: Occupied as yesterday. Practising with rifle. Sebassa departed carrying away most of his furs. Tonight reading Mackintosh on Diseases of the Brain. Friday, March 7: 1834. Nearly all day on the West Gallery looking after the men employed behind. Reading Belisaire. Tonight Guthrie on Spain. Saturday, March 8: At home all day—& reading Clan Albin—at night McKintosh. Have finished the second vol: of Dwight—North side of gallery finished this evening. Mr. Manson is becoming anxious as to nonarrival of a vessel from the Columbia—it is high time the Nereid made her appearance. Sunday, March 9: Passed a nearly sleepless night & recruited by a nap this afternoon. Looking over McKenzie's journal. Evening—have read a sermon in Dwight on the Holiness of Christ—he shows most strongly that our Saviours character could not have been formed by the Apostles & this granted is I think a very striking proof of their inspiration. Paley's Moral Philosphy on charity. Have been thinking of making a yearly donation to the Invss. Infirmary or Soup Kitchen—it is my duty to bestow something in charity—I have yet four months to think on the most eligible mode of doing it. Monday, March 10: All day on the gallery & reading Clan Albin, it is an excellent novel calculated to inspire one with generous & benevolent sentiments & powerfully to stir up the amor patriae which dwells in the bosom of every leal son of Albyn. Another project has today presented itself to me, 272 MRS. W. F. TOLMIE Daughter of HBC Chief Factor John Work viz: to devote a small sum annually for the relief of destitute persons in Balle Chaimplach—& to request Aunt Helen to be my almoness—old My. McD. is a worthy object. Tuesday, March 11: On the gy. reading Elegant Extracts & copying into Common Place Book—the lines beginning the sixth canto of Scott's Lay of the Last Minstrel. Evening—Guthrie on Spain—Cockshettled a crow with rifle. Wednesday, March 12: On gallery greater part of day. Sunday, March 16: Reading Johnson's life of Dr. Young—it differs materially from that prefixed to the Night Thoughts—also Young's Paraphrase of the Book of Job—Johnson is a candid biographer—it is mortifying to human pride to find that the brightest & best of our pets had so many failings of the sons of Adam—the "Son of Man" is alone spotless & his is the character which every Christian ought to imitate. May His grace enable me to begin the change from this day. Monday, March 17: Men employed in carting the timber for Store from Point Portlock, h I have spent the day with them. It is reported that some Nasse Indians have arrived at Oyallap's house who say that the Dryad has been at Fort Simpson & now is on her way hither—'tis a probable statement. Tuesday, March 18: At Point Portlock all day. Had Thomson's Poems & was much gratified by the perusal of the Hymn to the Creator at the end of the Seasons. Tonight finished Guthrie on Portugal. Wednesday, March 19: Squaring of wood for Dwelling House again commenced at the former station beyond Point Duncan. Along with the men all day. Reading in an old American Register—the official accounts of the belligerents of 1809—Sir John Moore's Retreat &c also part of the correspondence between the British and American ministers regarding the disputed point, the embargo on the Trade. Thursday, March 20: Occupied as yesterday—Reading the French Official Account of the war in the South of Spain & the disastrous Walcheren Expedition. Friday, March 21: Occupation & reading as yesterday. Saturday, March 22: Occupied as yesterday & reperusing accounts of Peninsular War in the American Register—a shoal of herring in Sound in the afternoon—the Indians took them in the following manner. A canoe constantly follows the shoal, whose motions can be discovered by the leaping of the fish. In the bow of canoe, a man stands, furnished with a slender pole about 12 feet in length — beset for about two feet with transverse wooden teeth about an inch apart in length & placed about an inch apart. When [273] in the midst of a shoal, he poles vigorously & generally brings up two or three fish impaled on the teeth. The herring is smaller in size & much inferior in quality to those caught in the West of Scotland. Sunday, March 23: Reading Johnson's life of Thomson. In the evening some chapters in ist Samuel relative to Eli & his sons—afterwards Dwight. Monday, March 24: Occupied as on Saturday. Tuesday, March 25: Have begun to read Memoirs of the late Queen Caroline. Going on with Guthrie on Italy at night. [Weather reports only for period March z6th to April $th], Saturday, April 5: Since this day week prevented from writing by a bruise received on forefinger. Engaged all the week at Point Duncan superintending the hauling of timber to the beach. Have had Ossian with me, but read little—my attention except at meal times being constantly occupied with the work. Several flocks of geese passed on their route to the frozen regions of the North. The Sound now abounds with herring, which are depositing their spawn plentifully—they eject it on branches of pine placed in convenient stations by the Indians by whom it is used as food & collected in great quantities. It has a slightly saline taste, not disagreeable. Sunday, April 6: Reading Dwight on the Miracles of Christ. Monday, April 7: Along with the men in the forenoon beyond Point Duncan—they were employed in forming into a raft & bringing home the wood they have been carrying to the beach during the past week. In the course of the forenoon about 5 or 600 surf ducks passed us in flocks of from 10 to 40—they feed on the herring spawn, which in some stations is abundantly deposited on the sea weed above low water mark. A few flocks of the Golden Eye Duck & of cormorants also passed—Mergansers, also hooded— Gulls very numerous. In the afternoon saw two cedar birds close to the Fort. Tuesday, April 8: At home all day. Changed plant papers. Wednesday, April 9: It is worth noting that I bathed today for the first time & have since felt very comfortable. Thursday, April 10: Had a walk to the lake, & got an excellent shot at two geese but did not kill—afterwards fired twice at a single bird, but without success & am now quite crestfallen—shot was however too small. Friday, April 11: Started after breakfast in the canoe with one man & an Indian (Blue Leggings) to visit the spot where the clay was procured which was traded last autumn. Coasted along the shore of the island we inhabit until we passed its SE. extremity, perhaps 4 miles from the Fort. Crossed an arm of the sea about two miles broad (the passage leading to Niwity) & making a portage between two small islands (which at ebbtide form only one) [274] entered a spacious bay at the head of which saw a winter village of Boston's Sept—the houses of the three great chiefs Boston, Kaghetasso & Umcheets were most conspicuous except the house of a chief lately deceased, Qyostigous which exceeded all the others in size—the posts of the latter were about 12 feet high & 18 or 24 in. in diameter—the lower half carved into hideous monsters intended to represent men—the carving is tolerable but their ideas of proportion bad, the head being immensely large—the figures are in a sitting posture & holding a child between the knees. The head is surmounted with a hat resembling an inverted waterpail—nose acquiline, eyes large & staring & mouth of very capacious dimensions—paint red, white & black is liberally daubed on the face to colour the eyeballs, eyelashes, cheeks, lips &c—higher on the post a nondescript looking quadruped is carved. I should have mentioned, that only the frames of the houses are standing, the walls being carried away when the camp is broken up—the beams are fixed to the posts by a mortice & tenon joint—which alone is ornamented with the specimens of Sculpture. Nettles are springing up around all the houses & the southern aspect of one islet in the middle of the bay is covered with gooseberry bushes in nearly full foliage. Found clay at two streamlets near the village. Small wooded islets are scattered throughout the Bay which is situated at the base of a mountain about 3000 feet high called Munskumachtlie. Emerged from the bay by another passage & made for Boston's Point which I examined without finding either sand or clay. Reached home about 3 P.M. Saturday, April 12: At home all day. Sunday, April 13: Reading Dwight in the evg also the story of Ruth, it is very touching & told in a simple & beautiful manner. Monday, April 14: Accompanied by an Indian ascended the hill, behind & to the S.W. of Fort, a short distance; & from the top of a large cedar had a pretty extensive view of the country to N. & NE of Fort, of which made a rough draught. Saw also the South Western extremity of our island, among the islets bordering which I suppose the Cadboro' was nearly wrecked in coming here. The interior of island is thickly wooded & presents here & there small tarns. Collected two specimens of Lycopodium. Tuesday, April 15: Swallows first seen this morning—Cedarbirds have been here for 8 or ten days past. Surf ducks still seen in great numbers. Wednesday, April 16: From 15 to 20 large canoes of Wacash's people passed on their way to the Caughquil country—the canoes were laden with boxes, hampers &c filled with dried herring spawn, which they are to barter for Oolaghans—the covers of their boxes are fitted similarly to that [27s] of a bandbox—hampers small & twisted of cedar bark. About 15 large canoes put on shore at the sawpit & remained for more than two hours a proof of their confidence of our good intentions. Thursday, April 17: Looking after a party who are occupied in grubbing. Four large canoes of Oyallah's sept passed bound for the Quaghquills. Friday, April 18: Went after breakfast with Umcheet to see a clay bed & proceeded a long way coasting the island opposite—at length entered a narrow inlet about a mile & a half in length & at its head found some clay but not so favorably situated as that seen at Munskumachtlie Bay on the nth Current. Got home about sunset, having made a short stay en passant at the house of Umcheet's. On coming in at the wicket the hammer of my percussion gun was caught by the doorway & pulled back with sufficient violence to cause it to ignite the cap in falling & discharge the piece right into the Fort. The gun was charged with shot, which fell about 10 paces from where I stood & thanks be to a Merciful God, injured no one. Saturday, April 19: Looking after the people employed close by the Fort. Sunday, April 20: Passed most of the day in Mr Mansons room amusing his son Wm. who is under my care with a troublesome looseness. Monday, April 21: Occupied as on Saturday. This evg changing plant papers. Tuesday, April 22: Looking after people and at intervals reading a volume of the Universal Magazine for 1786 which contains some excellent articles. A large band of Bostons people departed t'other day for Quaghcuil —those who remained are now removing to the station where the halibut fishery is pursued, about a day's journey distant. Spring Village Island is nearly deserted. Today saw a wild bee. Wednesday, April 23: A few porpoises in the bay in the forenoon. Black Ducks have not passed in great numbers for some days past. Thursday, April 24: On foot nearly all day. Reading in the Universal Magazine several interesting & instructing pieces, among others—Memoirs of Frederick the Great of Prussia — partly written by Dr Johnson. Friday, April 25: Had a walk in the S. Plain after breakfast & found three plants in flower. Saw a flock of huge porpoises passing, some within 60 yards of the shore, round Point Portlock. What with their blowing & striking forcibly with the tail—they created a great noise & the water was so much agitated as to roll in waves to the shore as they passed. From looking into Cuvier I think it the Grampus or Delphinus Gladiator. Shoals of small [276] herring are seen daily in the bay perhaps the produce of this season's spawning. Large flocks of cranes passed at a great height, flying northwards. Saturday, April z6: Busy all day looking after the Grubbers. Fired six shots at swallows on wing unsuccessfully. Sunday, April 27: Tormented with toothache all day. Examined the plants collected on Friday—one is a species of Menziesia—two—Coptis trifolia? 3 Physalis? Tonight reading Paley & Dwight, still much annoyed with toothache affecting the whole side of face. Monday, April 28: Still affected with toothache. Remained in the house, in the afternoon writing. Examined a shrub called by the Canadians the Billois —it is the oxycoccus Erectus of Parsch & is abundant along the banks of the Poyallipa River where I found it in fruit in Septr. Tuesday, April 29: Large flocks of geese & cranes still passing. Troubled with toothache & got temporary relief by smoking & this evening more permanent ease by the application of a heated probe to the exposed nervous surface—since then the tooth has been free from pain, but have felt some twinges along the cheek. Wednesday, April 30: Toothache less troublesome. Thursday, May 1: Toothache very painful—had the actual cautery applied by means of a piece of iron wire—it diminished the pain in the tooth, but has irritated the different branches of the 7th pair & I have since suffered pain in the cheek, ear & temple of the same side. Occupied all day in making a set of Apothecaries' Weights. The anniversary of my arrival in the Columbia. Friday, May 2: Finished the set of weights. Toothache continues— pressure on the affected tooth causes excruciating pain extending backwards to ear. Reading Shakespeare. Saturday, May 3: Looking after axemen at work at Point Duncan & reading King Lear, which is deeply interesting. Toothache better. Sunday, May 4: Reading Abernethy on Strictures having an Indian affected with Stricture & disease of Testes as a Patient. Tonight Dwight. Monday, May 5: In the forenoon reading Mackintosh on Syphilis. Looking after workmen &c. Intend going out with gun tomorrow at dawn in quest of deer—have got a soldier's musket loaded with buckshot in readiness. Tuesday, May 6: Did not get up this morning as I intended, being deterred by the rain & some twitches of the toothache. Looking after the people all day. Wednesday, May 7: Up at 4 AM & started with musket on shoulder. Circumambulated the lake, but only met with one deer, which was just [277] darting into a thicket when I perceived it. Mg foggy & frosty. Was much pleased with the appearance of the landscape from an eminence on the plain. All around a dense fog was lazily floating through which the sunbeams forced a passage, gilding the pine clad mountain tops, which appeared amidst the sea of mist like small islets—all other objects being concealed. Friday, May 9: Proceeded this afternoon with two men to the Sandy Cove discovered on the nth Ult: & instituted a search for clay, digging with spade & hoe—but not with success. Found fresh Deer tracks very numerous in the forest immediately above the bay. On returning, left the men in canoe at the extremity of the S plain & walked home arriving about 8. In the plain deer tracks are scarce. Tonight reading in Shakespeare, King John. Saturday, May 10: Reading The Midsummer Night's Dream & Henry VIII. Sunday, May 11: A party of Billichool arrived & from the Chief Nooshimald I obtained a brief vocabulary of their language, it resembles at most word for word that of the tribe Mackenzie met with on this coast & they are probably identical. Showed the chief considerable attention & said that perhaps I would visit his country soon. Mr. Manson says, it is likely that I shall command the party who go to explore in that quarter this or next autumn. Monday, May 12: The Bilbilla or Haceltzuk have all returned from the Quaghcuil country with but few furs—as Quaghcuils intend trading here. Friday, May 16: At home all day. Packed a quantity of Oxycoccus Erectus—boat finished & on Monday shall be put in requisition. Saturday, May 17: Reading As you like it. Remember perusing the same play with E. D. Walker, three years ago at this season, it would at any rate be a favorite, but from the reminiscences it awakens, I shall read it with enhanced relish. Poor Walker—I hope he will write me. Shall indite him another epistle this summer. Sunday, May 18: Am to start tomorrow morning with a party in the boat to Munskumachtlie Bay for clay. Have not opened a book today—now going to take up Dwight. [Weather notations for two days] Wednesday, May 21: Set out on Monday morning in the boat with 6 men & an Indian, a brother of Boston's—about 4 o'clock. At first the sky was unclouded but when we reached Boston's point, a thick fog obscured all objects save the water for about 100 yards around the boat—on entering Munskumachtlie bay, the mists rolled away to the mountain tops & the eye was greeted with peeps of the green village seats as in our progress they [278] were successively brought into view. Village seats & here & there a grassy stripe extending along the beach & the mouths of the numerous streamlets are the only verdant spots in this savage wilderness. Elsewhere the varying hues of the Pine, Spruce, Cedar & Cypress prevail—in the plains giving place to the yellow moss & at the beach, the above trees are mingled with the bright green Alder. Found a convenient clay bank not formerly seen & set to work to disencumber it of the earth, trees &c which embarrassed our motions. Boat was loaded by i P.M. & we soon emerged from bay & in crossing the traverse held our course for Boston's Point. The boat not having been caulked between the uppermost plank & the gunwale admitted the water so freely as to require the utmost exertions of a man with a large kettle to keep her afloat by baling—& sunk almost to the gunwale she lay like a log in the water. Was obliged to run her aground on the lee shore & on touching, she filled—could not succeed in getting her afloat & dispatched a note to Mr. Manson by the Indian who went on foot to the base of Weeweeshla (the hill opposite Fort) & by shouting, procured a ferry boat. Pitched camp near where boat lay. At highwater boat was covered. In the evening Faineant & Bilgarde arrived but nothing could be attempted. Passed nearly a sleepless night & at zVz on Tuesday, mg. the tide ebbing commenced discharging cargo, but failed in attempts to raise the boat. Borrowed an Indian canoe & proceeded to Fort—& returned, accompanied by Folster, the Blksh. an ingenious Orkneyman, by whose endeavours the boat was raised & got to the Fort by 3 P.M. It was buoyed up by means of two canoes placed parallel to each other, held together by an oar laid transversely—a rope passed underneath stern of boat was attached to oar & being powerfully tightened sunk the canoes considerably & as the tide rose their buoyancy elevated the boat. Thursday, May zz: Off at 4V2 A.M. to Munskumachtlie—arrived about 7. Made a tournee & shot a squirrel in the wood behind Qyostigons' Village—on the village seat, deer tracks numerous & recent. It being high- water emerged from the bay by the narrow passage, where we had to make the portage on the nth Ult. Reached home by 2 P.M. Collected a specimen of Ribes & a Leyandrous shrub (unknown) at a village seat in detroit. Friday, May zy. The anniversary of the commencement of Fort McLouglin. Set out after breakfast for clay & returned by 4V2 P.M. Saw a few porpoises. Saturday, May 24: Boating gravel from a village seat about a league to N.E. of Fort. There is on the site of village a profusion of [279] I OTF- gooseberry, currant, rose, rasp & other bushes growing in wild luxuriance— it is a sloping bank with a southern exposure & is the prettiest spot I have yet seen here. Sunday, May 25: Busy all the forenoon with medical duties—afternoon had a siesta—am now going to read Dwight. Monday, May z6: Up at 3 am & set out in the boat for gravel to the place visited on Saturday. Strolled through the wilderness of bushes, which cover the point, while the men were loading, saw a plant much resembling Genus Urbanum—also the plant gathered last summer in Jolifie plain and supposed to be a species of Tiarella—a species of Arenaria called by the Indians Tumma & used as a cataplasm. Returned home about 7V2 and shot a crane in the Bay. During day with the people at Point Duncan carting Chantieres. A canoe passed about 4 P.M. bound for the Fort to notify the approach of a ship & soon after two guns were heard. Hurried home & in half an hour was embarked in a canoe with 10 Canadians bound for Active's Cove or Cape Swain if necessary. In the narrows met Mr. P S Ogden & Anderson in a boat & joined them. The brig Dryad seen a short distance below. Learn't from the gentlemen, that they were bound for Stikeen to form an establishment there—however more of that anon. Reached Fort in due season. Lay awake chatting with Anderson till 3 A.M. The Neried arrived very late—an 11 mos passage, put into 4 or 5 ports— is to be sent home again immediately. The Capt: A Lieut: of the RN— an agreeable person—officers so, so — one of them a veteran middie. Heron gone to Colville, Nusqually & Fort Langley—both kept up. Mr. Finlayson gone across the mountains. Received a short letter from my father and Alick, both well—it is too bad that they write such brief epistles, Uncle J. has got a daughter—an epistle from Mrs Taylor, Oahu, one from Gairdner. Tuesday, May 27: Discharging cargo. Wednesday, May 28: Occupied as yesterday. Thursday, May 29: Packing trunks as I am to make one of the Stikeen party. [280] Fort Simpson and Fort McLoughlin 1834-5 Friday, May 30: Embarked at 2 P.M. & warped out of bay but are now anchored off Pt Portlock. Have been ashore. Saturday, May 31: Now at anchor in the narrows. Reading Ross Cox's travels on the Columbia, a work which has made much noise at home. Sunday, June 1: [Details of weather] Monday, June 2: Still detained in Active's Cove by light & unfavorable winds. The Dryad makes no progress at beating unless with a 7 or 8 knotter. Have all day been reading Ross Cox—& the Life of Sir Walter Scott, given in a Supplement to Chalmer's Journal. Sir W. died just six days after the Ganymede left Gravesend, on the 21st Septr 1832. Examined & arranged on Saturday the plants collected at Fort McLouglin. [Nine items here]. Tuesday, June 3: Set sail early this morning beating. Surprised by the sound of a gun from without. Soon a three-masted vessel appeared & gave rise to numerous conjectures as to her name, nation but the "Stripes & Stars" flag soon settled the question & she proved to be the American Barque Lagrange—Captn Snow, from Boston of course—lately from Sitca 6 Ft Simpson—from the latter place she brings the melancholy intelligence that the Vancouver was lost on Rose Spit, Queen Charlotte's Island about 7 weeks ago—the crew escaped in the boats & have arrived at Ft. S. There were only about 30 Indians on the spot—& they endeavoured to prevent the crew's leaving, intending of course to butcher them, but they did not proceed to extremities. However Heath the ist Mate late of the Ganymede was wounded on the head but is recovering. Nothing saved from the wreck. Rum puncheons skuttled. 500 lbs Gunpowder on bd. In the afternoon, accompanied Anderson to the Fort. Took tea with Manson & left him about sunset. Should have mentioned previously that on reaching C. Swaine were obliged to return to Active's Cove. Wednesday, June 4: All day in Active's Cove. Dined on board the Lagrange. Lots of pastry. Cheese & tart eaten together. Good ale, wine etc. Capt: Snow an agreeable young man, experienced on the coast. Thursday, June 5: Wrote to Mrs Taylor, Oahu lastnight, intending to [281] mmr have sent the letter this morning to Capt: Snow, but on getting up found that we were near Kyeets Cove & no canoe at hand—so it must go by the first vessel from Vancr unless we meet the Europa now at Sitca. Shall write again when the Dryad leaves Stikeen. Friday, June 6: Off Bank's Island. Going at the rate of 5 or 6 knots all day. Yesterday finished Ross Cox—afterwards a critique on Mrs Trollope's work on the Americans in the Edinr. Review—they cut her up severely—but perhaps with justice. Saturday, June 7: A beautiful day—between Bonilla Island & Stephen's Island—tacking occasionally—now with a six knotter—holding on for the channel between Isle de Tayas & Dundas's Island—toward evening could see the fatal Rose Spit far to the westward illumined by the setting sun. Sunday, June 8: Clemonsettie Harbour. Rounded the island of Tayas with a light wind & owing to that & the fogginess of the atmosphere, have been obliged to put in here for the night. Necoot a Kygarnie chief visited us & brought a frail maiden along with him, who is now on board. The Indians of this quarter attend more to cleanliness of person than those of Milbank Sound. Necoot delivered a note from Mr Kennedy, Surgeon, Ft Simpson stating the wreck of Vancr 2nd March, death of Don' McDonald, a Scotchman & the scarcity of trading articles. The aspect of the country yet seen, similar to that of Milbank Sound, coast iron bound, not fringed with a grassy belt. Distant about 30 miles from Ft Simpson. Sunday, June 15: Nass Straits near Pellys cove. Reached Fort Simpson about one P.M. on Monday last, having sailed up with a favorable 7 knotter—on rounding the Point of western shore (called Nass Pt) opposite Pt Ramsden came in sight of the Fort & fired a gun. Were now in the estuary of the Nasse River, & the line of distinction between the tide & river currents was made very obvious by a ripple, besides the difference of colour—that of the river being a dirty white—high mountains on each side border the channel—they are rugged and precipitous, covered only with moss at their summits—where these are exposed—but many are snowclad— in the water courses a line of bare rock extends from summit to base & where a mountain is marked with several of these it has a striking appearance. Nearly to their summits the mountains are clad with pines, but in some gullies foliage of a brighter verdure can be seen. Ft. Simpson is situated on a projecting rocky point, on the eastern shore of channel,—exposed to all the fury of the NE. gales so prevalent in winter—the buildings are placed in the centre of a flat of about 2 or 3 acres in extent, which elevated about 40 feet above highwater mark, presents a breastwork of bold rocks to the sea [282] —it is, of course, cleared, & covered with a soil of a few inches depth, in which the Sambucus—Oxycoccus & several herbaceous plants unknown to me have sprung up. Several lodges of the Nasse tribe are scattered around the Fort. An excellent path leads from the landing place to the Fort Gate. Within everything is nicely arranged—court macadamized — pathways of cedar logs formed & over the central one extending from the inner gate to the hall door, a broad awning is spread—houses whitewashed outside— Dwelling house covered with cedar shingles which form a very neat roof, wainscoated within. Busy during week writing home & arranging medicines— on Monday removed a fatty tumor from the breast of one of the Vancr's crew—it was the size of a large orange, but was unfortunately lost. Incision transverse—vessels secured by torsion—the man is doing well. Friday, June 20: Stikine Sound. On Tuesday entered Clarence's Straits and on Wednesday came to anchor here about 7 miles from Pt. Highfield— had my troublesome tooth pulled by Capt: Duncan & did not suffer much pain. The mts bordering these Straits are less bare & rugged than those of Nasse—they also more commonly terminate towards the sea in low flat points edged with grass & green leaved bushes—sandy bays are not rare. Throughout there is a plentiful growth of large pines with here & there a small green patch of alder, Maple or some other tree of verdant foliage. The beach is not so rocky & in many places small sandy bays appear. Passed from Clarence's Straits by a channel running NE. not laid down in Vancouver's chart & as we drew nigh could see the site of the Russian Establishment near the extremity of Pt Highfield—a shapeless mass of logs or planks—a sawpit employed 8 or 10 men & a few low huts placed on a grassy point represented the Russian Fort—as seen from a distance of perhaps 16 miles. The anchor had hardly reached the ground when a boat could be seen approaching us from the shore — soon came alongside—it was a long whale boat carrying a swivel or blunderbuss in the bow & manned by four stout men—the young man in command stepped on board & handed a large paper to Mr Ogden—prohibiting British or American vessels from trading in Clarence's Straits. Mr O replied by note that he was determined to proceed according to the treaty & the youth took his departure —soon after a bidarka approached—paddled by two men—the officer sitting in the middle seat—he was a thin elderly man of very dark complexion—dressed in a blue surtout, & white vest (unmentionables not observed)—he was accompanied by a short thick set goodnatured vainlooking man, the Indian Interpreter & both were ushered into the Cabin—the aq: vitea &c produced & we all seated round. The officer who spoke a few words of english intimated that if we attempted to ascend the river, the [283] mm*- instructions at the Fort were to "boxum" i.e. to oppose us by violence. Boxum after swallowing more than a pint of brandy in "good healths & goodnights" took himself off. Lastly the boat again appeared, armed as formerly under command of No 3—a tall thin stern looking fellow, with a threadbare surtout, buttoned close up to throat—he was attended by a man who understood a little Spanish & Anderson & myself set ourselves to work to translate by means of our Latin lear. By guessing & conjecturing we at length made out that no person at the Fort understood either English, French or Latin & that a bidarka was to start immediately for Sitka to make known our arrival & intentions. No 3 was very sparing in his libations & seemed anxious to go, when it was seen that nothing could be done. Invitations were sent for the person in charge to visit us. Yesterday morning No 3 again came out & invited Mr Ogden to visit his commander. Mr O said that after breakfast I should go & I proposed that Capt Duncan should go likewise which was agreed to. We accordingly set out in the gig, manned by four men having each a musket. I was armed with bidag & pistols on my person & carried gun also. After a pull of nearly 5 miles, reached the point which now conceals Fort from oi*r view & on rounding it were surprised to observe a light little brig lying at anchor about a stone's throw from the fort. By signs, were directed to proceed to the brig, & on boarding met Capt: Zarembo at the gangway & were at once shown into the cabin. Now learnt from the Capt: who spoke a few words of English, that "It was not possible" that we could either trade in Stikine Sound, or proceed up the River to settle—that he had received instructions from Baron Wrangell at Sitca to prevent us. The cabin was neat & clean—the decks clear, but in rather a filthy state, were occupied by 12 cannon & four swivel guns—at each gangway a brawny fellow stood, armed with cutlass & pistols & a stout bulwark about zVz feet in height stretched across the deck immediately posterior to the forecastle—from behind which the decks could be easily cleared by musketry. Took some wine with the Capt. & immediately thereafter departed having had but little opportunity for observing the state of the vessel. He mentioned that a bidarka had started the previous evening with Mr. Ogden's note for Sitca & would return in 8 or 10 days until which time he would abide by his instructions. What was taken for a pile of boards proved to be the walls of a large house in the process of building, formed in front of squared logs, behind of round ones. The Fort was merely a few cedarbark huts, within an enclosure about 6 feet in height, formed of boards fastened to upright poles. It is situated on a narrow grassy point having water on three sides & running out into the small bay in which the brig lies. Zarembo wore epaulettes on each shoulder & styled himself Lieutenant. About an hour after our return a boat arrived & the Spanish interpreter stated that it was bound for Sitca & requested a letter from Mr. Ogden to the Govr. there. It was given, being to the same purport as the former. Today have had no visits. I have been ashore & collected 6 or 8 new specimens of plants along the beach. The forest consists chiefly of "Epinettes", Spruce & "Prush" Hemlock—Billois No 2, common also Panax Horrida, a species of Ribes, common in the Columbia & Milbank, but only now gathered. Saturday, June 21: Rainy all day. Visited by Seix the Stikine Chief for the second time, & after a long conference he still refuses to permit our going up the River to establish, altho' he is perfectly willing that we should settle at the entrance—he has undoubtedly been egged up to this line of conduct by our opponents the Russians, who have not failed to point out to him the danger of our intercepting his supply of furs from the interior tribes—he is a tall well formed Indian, rather corpulent but that adds to his dignity of deportment—countenance on the grecian model, encircled by flowing locks of jet black hair, bushy whiskers, mustachios & beard of the same hue—his dress a fox skin robe—he looks somewhat like Colonel Anderson, but his features are larger—is forward & presuming. Saturday, June 28: Have had fine warm weather during past week. No rain on Sunday—accompanied Mr Ogden on a visit to Lieut: Zarembo— learn't from him, that he would oppose our trading; & ascending the river by force. Remained about an hour. Mr. Ogden made offer of my professional services. The Rigging of the Russian brig was hung with branches of trees & the decks strewed with grass. At 11—while in cabin — heard a tattoo on the quarter deck, where the crew seemed mustering & presently Boxum entered with a basin of some stuff, which the Captain tasted & spoke a few words—the Boxum took himself off. On Monday, Zarembo returned our visit bringing No 1, who is his Steward & being a Finlander, capable of talking with one of our crew, a Swede—a long confab took place in our cabin, but nothing additional was learn't & the conversation was vague & unsatisfactory as formerly—Zarembo gave Mr. O a written prohibition in Russian from trading or ascending the river. Since then we have had no intercourse or communication with our opponents. Have been practising the use of the sextant & taken several altitudes of the sun, which give the Lat. pretty correctly—56—28—30— or 40 is a fair average—also latterly practising the flute. Have read little. This evening two boats arrived at the [285] Russian Establishment so that tomorrow we shall know whether or not they are determined to persevere in their unjust prohibition. Sunday, June 29: Today received notification to be off as soon as convenient, as Zarembo has still only his former orders to go by. Mr O. reed a letter from Lt Etolini, the Depy Gov at Sitca stating that Govr Wrangell is absent at Look's River & will not return till the end of August & that Zarembo has orders to act according to the articles of the convention—he also asserts that by the convention Britons have no right to trade or navigate in any part where a Russian Establishment exists, while by our version of the Treaty there is a mutual prohibition merely from landing without the permission of the Governor of the Establishment. Mr O. visited Zarembo & learn't that permission would still be witheld & that any attempt to ascend the river would be opposed by force. On his return, he asked the opinion of each gentlemen & we all agreed with him in thinking, that opposed as we are both by the Russians and Natives it would be highly imprudent to persist in the undertaking. He then made known his intention of removing Ft. Simpson to McLoughlin's harbour (on the same shore & a short distance to the Sward of Pt Maskelyne) & that we shall set about erecting pickets &c there as soon as may be—Hove the anchor — thrashed about for an hour or two, gaining only about a mile, are again at rest. Wednesday, July 9: Clarence's Straits—nearly opposite Prince Ernest's Sound—(Five fathoms) Owing to foul winds, calms, fogs &c have made no further progress & tonight being calm, cloudy & drizzly promises no amendment in the weather. Since last journal, time has hung heavily on our hands. My days have been occupied with plants, desultory reading in newspapers, magazines &c, interesting & sometimes instructive conversations with Mr Ogden & tough controversies with Anderson, with occasional success—but neither of us can boast of much coolness of temper. [There follows a copy of notes on mineralogical specimens left at Milbank for Qairdner.] Friday, July 11: Clarencestrait off Point Grindall. Yesterday accompanied by Macaulay a Lewisman & my boy Francis, ascended a mountain near our anchorage in Five Fathom Hole & made a good collection of plants—absent from 10 A.M. till 7 P.M. trudging the live long day—the first part of ascent was a hill 3 or 400 feet, bordering bay—at its lower part—the Panax horrida abounded & as usual was a troublesome obstruction to our progress —higher up, scattered "billois" & rasp formed the underwood & common yellow moss the carpeting—the forest was chiefly composed of fine tall specimens of the Pinus Taxifolia, occasionally a P. Niagra & cedar & alder bush. Having surmounted this hill, came to an upland meadow clothed with [286] rich & tender grass and enamelled with flowers of various hues. Through the meadow a streamlet meandered which occasionally spread out into narrow pools & in these found specimens of the Nymphea Lutea in flower— ascended one or two wooded knolls which environed this oasis & struck away to southward towards a bare polled summit, which seemed easily accessible. Crossed several woody knolls & passed some wet meadows resembling that already described, also some deserted beaver dams—on reaching the summit just mentioned, found it thinly strewed with stunted pines, P. Lambertiana & Nigra & Taxifolia, billois & coated with rich herbage—traces of deer very abundant. Saw a deer feeding on a neighbouring eminence, Posted Macauley in situation whence he could by signs direct me to the game & set out cautiously gun in hand—the underwood was so scanty that I proceeded without making any rustling. After threading several gullies, following Macauley's directions, saw a large roebuck about 30 paces from me—he had been alarmed & stood with head erect looking warily around. Took aim at his heart & let bang off hand—he staggered about not attempting to run, which seemed as if he was severely wounded—this induced me to rush forward, on this he rounded a corner & disappeared—immediately loaded & followed, but could not find him. Macauley informed me that the deer fell on my firing & got up tottering. Should have loaded immediately without stirring & then would have got a second shot. Have today been busy with plants. A NW. wind sprung up about two o'clock & is now a six knotter—if it continues— shall reach our destined haven tomorrow. Francis Bercier is a half breed boy sent by Dr McLoughlin agreeable to my request made by letter in January— he is tractable & answers well. Am teaching him to read & write. Sunday, July 20: McLoughlin's Harbour. Anchored here on Saturday the 12th Inst: at 5 P.M. It is properly speaking a bay, about 5 miles in breadth from Point to Point & is situated a short distance to the Sward of Point Maskelyne. Before anchoring, Birnie & Anderson set out in a boat to explore & soon after Duncan & myself on the same errand. We found a good spot for building at the southern extremity of bay but destitute of suitable timber. Reported accordingly. Birnie & Anderson were not so fortunate. Next mg before breakfast Ogden & Duncan examined the spot & the former was well satisfied, but wishing to be nearer Point Maskelyne for the convenience of the Kygarnie & Tumgasse Indians— B & A were dispatched in that direction. In the afternoon they returned, having met with no favorable spot. Duncan & I proceeded to the S.E. part of bay where there is a good sized burn, larger than the Milbank one. Followed its course for some distance upwards—its banks are level & all around there is an abundance of tall pines, [287] mr no scarcity of picket wood. On making this known all desiderata being provided for, it was determined that the spot visited on Saturday Evening should be selected, as more advantageous for the Shipping & better situated for an extensive prospect &c than that seen on Sunday. On Monday morning Anderson & I landed with the men & commenced a war of extermination agt. the "leafy denizens of the Forest"—a barricade of fallen trees was formed, within which we all encamped in the evening—the men in huts formed of branches & we in tents. It was a lovely evening & I think a landscape painter would have found a good subject for his brush in our encampment "under the greenwood tree"—the ample bay with its woody islets & rocks & the surrounding peaked & snow dappled mountains—the felled trees— grass & herbs had then the freshness & verdure of life—on Tuesday I entered an office of Indian Trader & procured a vocabulary of the language of this tribe—the Chimmesyan. Have since been busily employed in that way. Thursday, July 24: Since Sunday nothing of note has occurred saving the arrival of the Dryad yesterday with the goods and the wood of the Nass Store on board. Friday, July 25: Busy trading cedarbark during forenoon, assisted in communicating with the natives by an Indian who understands the Milbank or Haeeltzuk language of which I acquired a slight knowledge at Fort McLoughlin. Reed the boxes & letters left by me at Nasse. P.M. Reading Sir Launcelot Greaves. Mr O. visited us in the evening—the Dryad is to proceed to Tumguss for the purpose of trading furs & provision, will probably return in ten days, when it is expected that Store will be ready to receive her cargo. Ligeich, Mr Kennedy's father-in-law has been here for some days, & is set out with his followers for Port Essington (or Skeena River) tomorrow. Tuesday, July 29: On Saturday the Dryad set sail, beating out of the bay—she had not yet disappeared when two shots were fired on board & immediately a faint report was heard from without. Birnie & I hurried across the sands to the island & spied a brig off Dundass place bearing for the Straits. She communicated with the Dryad outside & towards sunset came in & anchored on the opposite shore of the Bay. B. & A. took her for the Llama & A. went off in our boat to conduct them across. Returned at dusk accompanied by the Commander of the brig (Boliver) Capt: Dominis an Italian & a Capt: Merryl, who had been formerly on the coast in a subordinate situation. They remained with us till late, & on Sunday we dined on board. The Bolivar was built as a gunbrig for the Mexican Republic, but was not purchased—she can mount 18 guns & sails like a Water Witch, [28 was trading on this coast in 1832. Dominis was in the Columbia & Willamit Rivers in 28 or 29, & is believed by the Chenooks & other Indians of that quarter to have let loose the Intermittent Fever amongst them, in revenge for their not giving him all their beaver. D. is a gentlemanlike person. Have not been visited by them since Sunday—Prescribed for two of his men. Friday, August 1: On Wednesday I visited the Bolivar & found my packet of letters (lost probably on Friday or Saturday) lying on the beach at high water mark in tatters & all in a heap. Picked up the fragments & found part of all. The packet was in all likelihood given to one of the Bolivar's crew by an Indian & he was rascal enough to open & destroy the letters. Have all my writing to do over again. On Thursday visited by Dominis & invited to pass the evening on board, which we did. Today finished the store. Birnie has taken up his abode below & I in the garret— Anderson in his tent, a semicircular barricade has been formed in front, reaching the front corners of the store at each extreme, & the people have been indulged with the loan of boards to construct their lodges. From the window of the garret close to my bed there is fine prospect of the bay & across the Straits to Clemencitly Harbour. Sunday, August 3: Yesterday putting the stone with B. & A. & passed them both by a yard or more. Today the Canadians tried it, but are very awkward. McLellan a Lewis man gained a prize of a fathom tobacco offered to the best thrower. I came within a foot of him. A. excelled them all at throwing a large mell Boule, among themselves carried off the prize— Chimmesyans flocking to the vessel. Monday, August 4: Have begun to arrange plants for sending home. Must endeavour to finish before arrival of Dryad. A. & I swam along shore a distance of 600 yards. Wednesday, August 6: Visited by Merryl lastnight. Planted a pole at low water mark with a view to ascertain the rise & fall, but had no means of getting out to observe at high water. Tuesday, September 2: Indolence & lack of matter together have prevented for some time from making an entry but latterly there has been no want of interesting matter. The rise of tide found by observation to be about 20 feet at new moon. The Boliver departed a few days after last journal. I purchased 3 pairs of summer boots at 17/6 ea—today gave one pr to Mr Kennedy at same price. Gave a note on Charlton for 31 dollars 60 cents for purchases made by self & Anderson. The Dryad arrived after a three weeks absence, meeting with a foul wind off this Harbour she [289] J proceeded to Nass on her return from Tumgass where she had found the American vessel Europa. On the evening she was ready to depart again for Nass an express arrived from Mr Kennedy stating that one of the men the day before had sustained a compound fracture of the leg—& another a fracture of skull & a request that I should be sent up with surgical instruments as he had none. Embarked half an hour after & with a favorable wind we sailed. Sped along to the tune of 8 knots till nearly half way up then the wind lulled—next morning started in the gig with four landsmen sent up to assist & arrived at Ft Simpson at noon—passed a great number of seals in going. The man with supposed fracture of cranium had recovered, having been only stunned severely—the other has a supposed transverse fracture of both bones of leg at lower third with a longitudinal wd. near spine of Tibia about an inch long—( but shall take notes of the case). Had nothing to do while at Nass but attend to my patients—weather very rainy. Sailed on Saturday 30th August. On Saturday morning rum had been sold to the Indians & some of them getting intoxicated were very turbulent & from noon till sunset when we embarked we were all under arms & in momentary expectation of having to fight our way on board or being butchered on the spot. They attempted frequently to beat down the slight barricade raised on the site of the bastions, but were deterred on seeing us ready with firearms to send a volley among the intruders. About a dozen or twenty indians with muskets were posted on a hill immediately behind from whence they could fire with deadly effect into the Fort at any part. Outside the pickets they were numerous & armed with guns, boarding pikes & knives & endeavouring by their savage whoops & yells to intimidate us. Remained quite in this state for sometime but owing to a temporary lull in the clamor outside, ventured to send a few articles to the boats which were in waiting at the beach, one or two had passed down with wooden utensils unmolested—no indians appearing in sight—another man was proceeding with a barrel full of miscellaneous articles, & unheeded when at once several armed villains rushed out from amongst the bushes—& one more inebriated & thence more daring than the rest seized the barrel & with drawn dagger drove the man from his charge— he returned to the fort & first meeting me I went out but seeing the savage advancing with his knife aloft in a menacing attitude I stepped slowly to the gate & procured a cutlass from the doorkeeper. Thus armed I walked toward the Indian who was surrounded by his friends persuading him to desist & at the same time Kennedy issued & addressed the savages—the barrel was rolled to the beach in the meantime without molestation. Soon after a gun was fired from the woods at one of the people employed at the strand, the ball 290 . whizzing past his ear. Every thing of value having been already embarked, no further attempts were made to ship what remained. Red Shirt the Indian just mentioned, was, to prevent his doing mischief outside, admitted into the Fort & was immediately assailed by Caxetan the chief with a volley of abuse for his conduct. From words they soon came to blows. Red Shirt's dagger was prevented from doing mischief by two sober indians Jones & Couguele, but being a tough active fellow he still retained it in his grasp & managed with the other hand most cruelly to abuse Caxetan's visage who, on his part fought bravely tooth & nail, considerably damaging his opponents visual organs. Mr Ogden at length got Caxetan & Jones to accompany him on board & once there retained them as hostages for our safety. Now prepared to abandon the Fort & held a debate as to the propriety of leaving behind a cask containing 25 gallons Indian Rum. It was left, Kennedy being the only person who wished to take it along with us. Took the precaution of drawing the priming from all the superfluous muskets after each man had been provided with one. As soon as the gate was opened, the armed natives collected around. I went out first & stood at the threshold until the last person had issued. The natives then rushed in to pillage & we reached the boats unmolested. Soon after to our astonishment, Caxetan & Jones from the bank shouted to us, that they wished us to send the boat for the Rum & on our refusing, offered to bring it on board themselves. They were then told to appropriate it to themselves & on this intelligence they brought the rum on board the vessel to be divided by us. This act proved them to be possessed of more prudence & foresight than we would have given them credit for. Had the division been made amongst themselves bloodshed would in all likelihood have ensued. All night a constant hammering was kept up in the deserted fort & dawn revealed several gaps in the pickets made by those who were intent on procuring the iron spikes which attached the pickets to the bars. It blew a NE. We set sail soon after daybreak bidding adieu without regret to the inhospitable regions of Nass, & in the evening after a pleasant sail, anchored in McLoughlin's Harbour at the new establishment. Ft McLoughlin, 15th November: Left Fort Simpson about the 22nd October and after a very tiresome passage arrived here on the 3rd Inst: & have since been officiating as Indian Trader in room of Mr Dunn who left in the Dryad. On returning to New Fort Simpson took up my abode again in the store along with Duncan, Heath & Sangster. Sunday, November 16: Did not find the store a comfortable dwelling. We generally lay in bed in the morning till breakfast time & at night each after supper turned in & being provided with a candle betook himself to [ 291 ] reading. Read some books procured from Dominis—Tom Cringle's log, Lander's Voyage in Africa &c. During the day my occupation was the writing up & copying the Fort Simpson accounts & other documents to go out by the Express — arranging plants &c. Mr Kennedy acted as Trader. Purchased a gun from Kennedy valued at 30/- gave him powder in exchange besides cancelling a card debt of 5/- The gentlemen at Ft Simpson made frequent shooting excursions—were sometimes pretty successful. I got to the summits of several of the hills encircling bay, but found few botanical specimens new to me. A Capt: Allan of Europa lay in the bay for a few days but traded little. Monday, November 17th: Trading. In the evening reading McKenzie's Voyage to the Pacific. Have purchased from Kipling for £3-3- Robertson's Historical Works in six volumes 8 to. Borrd. from Mr Ogden the life of Edmund Burke & Franklin's First Journey to the North. With these & my stock of yet unread books I shall have more than enough for this winter's perusal. Tuesday, November 18: This evening flashes of lightning, very vivid, accompanied by loud peals of thunder & followed by heavy rain. Wednesday, November 19: A band of Estetuch trading. Thursday, November 20: A good many Indians—asked Bostons what thunder & lightning were occasioned by—he answered—By a large bird which on awakening suddenly flaps its wings, thus causing thunder, & flashes lightning from its eyes. Friday, November 21: The idea held by the natives here regarding thunder & lightning, corresponds with that which obtains amongst the aborigines east of the Rocky Mountains—some of the Billichoola tribe here today, traded from them some cakes made from the inner bark of the hemlock. Shall send one or two home. This branch of the Billichoola are called Kummuchquetoch & their village is one night distant. Saturday, November 22: Have not I believe noticed in journal when last here—the practice of the Indians of allowing certain chiefs of each tribe to bite from the forearm large morsels of the skin & cellular substances before or while he performs this operation which is talked of with great solemnity— the chief lives in the mountains apart from the rest of the tribe & feeds it is said on human flesh. Wacash has just returned home & most of his followers that have visited the Fort for the last two days have their right forearms bound up with shreds of wrought cedar bark & encircled with bandages of the same. They mention his return to the other Indians in a manner denoting it to be a circumstance of interest & importance—the doings at his village [ 292 ] were the all engrossing topic of conversation amongst the loungers in the Indian House (an apartment adjoining the front gate set apart for the use of the natives). Sunday, November 23: Great feasting now at Wacash's village, whither Boston & his principal men have gone. Monday, November 24: After breakfast went to the lake, coasted it in the canoe throught. — went into the woods at Western bay & saw some fresh deer tracks—in returning, saw on the rocky islet 4 swans—tried to land near them but they flew away. What I supposed a large species of vulture at the northern end, along with some white headed eagles attracted probably by the dead salmon. After dinner killed a gull with ball at 70 or 80 paces. One of men an Iroquois while employed to northward of Point Duncan, was attacked by two Indians & robbed of his Capot, belt & shoe—he defended himself with his axe & struck the eldest aggressor a knock down blow on the breast with the head of it—the other ran to the canoe for a gun, on which Ignace took leg bail into the woods & reached the fort panting and in great trepidation. Tuesday, November 2 5: Boston and a number of his people returning from Wacash's where they had been feasting & conjuring—they say the robbers of yesterday are the Kyekish tribe three nights distant—that the Haeeltzuk tribe are afraid to go about in canoes on account of the conjuring —an excuse often given me for their not bringing deer. Practising rifle & some good shots. Wednesday, November 26: Reading Dundee Papers of 1833—full of Electioneering Annals not to me very interesting. James Ewing carried the day at Glasgow & Bailie at Inverness. Torbeck had only six votes. Qunnala- shoot, a brother of Wowiallah's called on his way to Boston's to invite the presence of that chief & his grandees at a conjuring match & feast to be held at the Kokwietoch village. He pressed me to go & offered to leave two of his people as hostages for my safe return. Mr Manson being absent, I gave him an evasive answer & told him to call on his return tomorrow. Thursday, November Z7: Mr Manson thought my visiting the Kokwietoch village would have a good effect; as his having been continually pestered during the summer on the same account by Wacash & Wowialla showed the eagerness of their desire to be thus honored. Accordingly Qunnachanoot appearing in the forenoon & having left two hostages I embarked in his canoe & we came in sight of the village, which is situated at the head of Kyeet's Cove; about 4 P.M. having in our rear 7 or 8 canoes of Boston's gang the Owieetoch. When opposite the village in the narrow [ 293 ] channel, there took place a great shouting & bawling between those in the canoe & their friends on shore who came running out of their houses in numbers. From what I could gather—some expressed their disapproval of my coming but the greater number were pleased & silenced the others by loud & angry expressions of disapprobation of their language. Amongst the latter, the most active was Qunnachanoot who observed that I would give medicine to his father Kyeet. Landed on the back of a sturdy Indian & was hurried by Qunnachanoot to his house—he was from his haste I suppose anxious to obtain for me the protection of his roof. Before landing he took my gun in charge for fear he said, that I might be supposed to have come with a hostile intention & he carried it to his house. Sat for sometime in his dwelling & gave old Kyeet some Essence of ppt. — he is afflicted with Dysury. Having been requested to bring some medicine for him although ignorant of his complaint, took ppt. as being innocuous. Led by Q. to the Conjuring House, a large building cleared of inhabitants for the occasion. On each side was a rude seat extending the length of the building, elevated about 4 feet above the ground & capable of accomodating three rows of sitters. It was composed of broad cedar boards, supported by round poles driven into the ground. Supported also by these posts were broad boards placed on edge & reaching from the floor to the horizontal boards forming seats, between these at intervals were small doorways which led I fancy to the dormitories of the inmates. A wall of painted boards reaching from the floor to the level of eaves extending from side to side & having a small door way in centre, formed a screen behind which the actors & artists prepared for the evening's entertainment. Was introduced into this Sanctum Sanctorum by Q. as a mark of distinction none but chiefs being so honored. The apartment was narrow but extended the breadth of the house—it was filled up on one side with oil boxes & on the other by boards & an immense chest of foreign manufacture containing masks. In the centre of room glimmered a small fire & on the back wall of house there was a doorway communicating externally. Seated around the fire with brush & pallet were several artists giving the finishing stroke to the masks—others were daubing their faces with paint, which they applied by means of a small leathern bag everted. Others again were in the hands of Peruquiers whose office it was to adorn the well greased hair of their customers with down—these functionaries take a quantity of down between the thumb & fingers & holding it close to the head, blow vigorously—what does not adhere to the greasy hair, is in respiring drawn into the mouth of the blower, to the imminent danger of his choking. While the inmates of the Green Room were thus employed [294] in the outer apartment, a large fire had been kindled around which the savages were singing & dancing. All the masks were representations of the "human face divine" except one which resembled that of the Falco Leucocephalus & was beset with the tail feathers of that bird radiating from its edge all around—it was called Tech te cheinny & seemed to be held in great reverence—they said chiefs alone were permitted to inspect it & that a common man beholding it dies, or is killed—by pulling a string which the wearer can do with his mouth, two pieces of shining brass are made to pass from within over the eye, like the film of a bird's eye—a rude wooden horn was occasionally blown & was believed without to be the voice of the Tech-te-cheinny. Common masks called Nawilock, other articles of dress displayed were blankets made from the wool of the Mountain Goat of a pretty pattern—colours black & yellow—a leathern kilt called Youchstiga, hung round with three rows of thimbles said to have been received from Vancouver by Kyeet. Leathern leggings reaching from below knee to ancle adorned with porcupine quills. Ushered into hall & seated beside Boston in the midst of his tribe who occupied the right side of house. Wacash's people enter & are seated on left side. The Kokwietoch sit on each side the door & the principal men, in front of the screen—an immense fire burns in middle of apartment. A man dressed in a suit of blue cloths, braided with yellow gartering; & with a piece of look' ing glass frame in each hand, stands in front of screen & in a fidgety angry looking manner holds forth to the guests—he asks why Wacash & Kaghetasso are absent & says that Wowialla is still in the mountains—asks also if the guests have come in peace & being answered in the affirmative proceeds to blow down into the heads of the chief men who uncover for the purpose—a song at the same time is sung in the green room accompanied with a drum without i.e. in the hall. Entertainment now commences & a man dressed in a foxskin robe with marten skin head dress—Kilt & leggings (dirty hooves uncovered) & armed with bow & arrow bounces in at the front door, and dances about hither & thither, pointing his arrow frequently as if looking for a victim—he now & then stoops to the ground & then a sharp squeaking sound is heard proceeding from the Green room; but I should imagine simulating his voice. Quannachanoot & three others with scarlet silk umbrellas spread follow him seeming to dissuade him from shooting the arrow—at length Q. snatches the weapon from his hand & points it at himself & he is unceremoniously seized by one of the others & bundled into the greenroom—a mat suspended in the doorway conceals the transactions there. The master of ceremonies (he of the looking glass frame) then steps forth & calls on the [295] spirit of a chief deceased this summer to appear—the voice of the Tegh te cheinny is heard & presently a figure dressed in a native blanket kilt & leggings & with the Teghtecheinny mask issues & slowly makes a circuit of the apartment being preceded by a man rattling a small box containing stones & followed by another blowing down on his head, he then retires. A green blanket presented to Boston— a canoe to me by the Klupshalligilis or physician to the tribe, who making a short harangue sent me a piece of wood as an emblem of the donation—several clement skins were also bestowed amongst the guests—this is a dressed elk skin of great size procured from the Chimmesyan Indians—it must come orginally from the interior—two are equal in value to a blanket. A young chief of the Weetletoch arrayed in the native blanket, a crown formed of the bristles of some large cetaceous animal from which depended posteriorly a tail of ermine skins reaching to the knee; he stood up & several of his neighbours also rose & commenced a song in which all the tribe joined clapping their hands as an accompaniment. This ceremony repeated many times both by Weeletoch & Owialletoch, little boys being decked out in the crown &c. Meanwhile about a dozen Kokwietoch slaves & young men ran out to prepare supper & on Quannachanoot's giving the word, came in, each with a large box full of "Soapsuds", which he kept vigorously stirring with his naked arm, small sticks having been previously distributed, the guests set to work immediately to convey the contents of the boxes into their stomachs. Several boxes of oil carried in & small buckets full handed about. Buckets full being thrown on the fires caused a brilliant flame illuminating every corner. I tasted the "Soapsuds", but supped on dried salmon given me by Boston. The aerial nature of the diet caused tremendous eructations amongst my neighbours after supper. Half an hour after supper I retired with Boston to Qunnachanoot's house where the women were at supper on soapsuds. Salmon was roasted by the slaves, broken into small pieces & presented to Boston & the other guests in a large wooden trough. I partook with Qunnachanoot of some smoked goats flesh, some of which was also handed to Boston. A bed was prepared for me with three or four new blankets on some boards elevated 4 or 5 feet above floor. B & Q set out to another masquerade. Turned in & one of the natives, (an old acquaintance) laid himself down on the boards behind as a protector, I imagine. Q. had the day before pressed me to remain two nights with him but on the morning of Friday proposed my returning home immediately. Previous to setting out, walked over the village which consists of about a dozen large houses & is situated on a narrow point at head of Kyeet's Cove. The houses are placed close to the beach on an embankment 6 or 8 feet high, supported by pallisades [296] & are approached by ladders formed of notched logs. Wowialla's one of the largest houses measured 45 feet in length & 54 in breadth—all the houses had a seat or bench on each side, similar to that in theatre, & on these were piled chests, hampers & other baggage. The number present at the masquerade I suppose to be 300 or 350. Reached home about noon. [Weather notes only for three days]. Tuesday, December 2: Finished Robertson on Scotland but I shall give it a second perusal. Tonight reading appendix. Wednesday, December 3: Today reading Franklin's journal. Have been induced to take it up with the view of obtaining from Richardson's descriptions of the Indians hints for my own inquiries into the manners &c of those here. Thursday, December 4: A few Indians—their notion regarding an eclipse of the sun is that it betokens the death of a chief's wife. Friday, December 5: No Indians & nothing notable. Saturday, December 6: Had an hour's skating at upper end of lake. Feel benefited & somewhat fatigued by the exercise. Going on with Franklin, but have not read much today. Few Indians. Sunday, December 7: Two wolves seen near the Fort. Monday, December 8: Had a walk through the woods to opposite Bostons Point without seeing the vestige of a deer. Returned by the beach where I saw several fresh tracks in the snow. Also found a few at the edge of woods at the extremity of S. plain. Killed a surf duck & a species of merganser not described in Wilson. Feel fatigued altho I have not walked above 6 miles. Few Indians. Wednesday, December 10: Yesterday & today Indians have kept me in employment till dusk. In the evenings have read a volume of Traits of Travel. Have of late & perhaps always been too negligent in journalizing the subjects of my thoughts & meditations. Since coming here what most frequently has been a matter of cogitation, is the dullness of this place & of life in the "Pays Sauvage" in general. Entirely deprived of society even of equals not to speak of the benefits arising from intercourse with one's superiors in knowledge & wisdom—the ideas are seldom raised to objects of a lofty nature but tend to assimilate themselves with those of the persons most frequently met with, viz—the wretched aborigines. The pleasures of polished female society we are obliged to forego & all this for filthy lucre's sake. Thursday, December 11: Have of late been frequently enquiring amongst the Indians about the rock on which Sir Alexr. McKenzie made the inscription on his arrival at the Pacific. They talk of a rock marked with [297] Vermilion about half a days journey hence which I am to visit tomorrow. Klalutch brother to Boston is to be guide. Tonight showed him the Plates in Franklin's Journal—he surprised me by his stupidity, mistaking trees for smoke, deer for seals &c. Mr Manson who was present mentioned that it is invariably so with Indians who for the first time behold drawings. Have met with the same observation elsewhere. Friday, December 12: Started at dawn in the canoe with Francis, Klalulusp & two men—our course until arriving at the S. point of Fort Island was S.S.E. It then became SSW as we navigated the wide opening separating this island from the Munskumachtlie shore. K. steered for a rocky point about 5 or 6 miles to W. of Munskumachtlie Bay & on a bare rock partially washed by the tide he showed me some indian hieroglyphics marked with red earth. Was convinced from the route he followed that it could not lead to McKenzie's Rock, but I knew that interference would be of no service 6 allowed him to proceed without interruption. Shot an eagle & duck. Saturday, December 13: A few Indians, but sufficient to keep me occupied. Sunday, December 14: Outside strolling about with Manson all day. He puts the stone a foot beyond my best throw. Monday, December 15: Visited by Achilles, father of Wacash, remarkable only for his name—attempted to take a meridian altitude of the sun with the sextant lent me by Mr. Ogden. With an artificial horizon of molasses could not obtain a clear view of the sun but after laboring till past noon, substituted water with better success. Shall try it again tomorrow. Tuesday, December 16: A lunar eclipse last night—nearly 2/3 of the moon's disk obscured at one period, which caused a great comparative darkness—the sky was unclouded. Examined a duck shot by Francis of which I cannot find a description in Wilson, (detailed description follows). Wednesday, December 17: A band of Estetuch canoes called on their way to an entertainment given by Kahetasso. Thursday, December 18: About 30 canoes of the Kokwietoch & Weetletoch passed, bound for the feast at Kahetasso's. None of the magnates & few of the "ignoble vulgus" visited us. Friday, December 19: Made an unsuccessful tournee in the S. plain in quest of deer. Saturday, December 20: Almost constant rain all day. Have been very idle today. In the evening sitting with Manson, chatting & playing on the flute. Sunday, December z 1: Busy all day with the Indians trading provisions— [298] 1 am now hearing Francis say his lesson & afterwards am going to read Dwight. Monday, December zz: Indians have kept me employed all day. In the evening a party of Kitamats or as they are called here Chyshilla arrived—they speak the Chymmesyan language & tonight have been singing the songs of that tribe in their camp at the beach—one of the songs is very similar to one sung by the Chenooks & Puget's Sound tribes—Sannahomis, Scadchet &c. Tuesday, December 23: Occupied with the Indians the greater part of day. The Kitamats have gone by invitation to the house of Qyostigous, a young chief of the Owialtoch whose mother Boston this summer espoused— they are to remain 10 days. Wednesday, December 24: Trading all day with a party of Chychaish. Tonight have been reading a Tour in Scotland in 1807 by Sir John Carr— it gives much information regarding the state of Scotland particularly the highlands at that period — I read it with much greater interest now than I would have done 3 years ago. Thursday, December 25: Christmas. A holiday with the people who have each received a half pint of Rum & have been merrymaking till midnight. Sat with Manson over a tumbler of Rum Toddy till pretty late. Indians pretty numerous today. Have received from Boston an account of a tribe called the Leequeeltanoch situated a day's journey to Sward of Nawity, whose predatory habits accord with those ascribed by the natives of Puget's Sound to the fear inspiring Youkiltas—they are in all likelihood the same people. Boston says they barter their prisoners directly with the Quaghcuils & Nawity, who again dispose of the slaves to the Haeeltzook from whence they spread over all parts of the coast. At Stikine this summer I saw several slaves of the Kawitchin Tribe. Saturday, December Z7: Chychaish off. Have been reading Burn's letters & the life of Robertson. Sunday, December 28: Busy in the Trading Shop the greater part of the day. Tonight reading Cowper. Monday, December 29: Occupied as yesterday. The dialect of the Kitamats does neither resemble the Chimmesyan nor that of the Haeeltzook—in pronunciation it approaches more to the former, but in the form of the words to the latter, indeed it is similar in many words. Tuesday, December 30: Several canoes arrived of the Kittistzoo or as they are called from the name of their chief Neecelowes Indians. They inhabit 299. rli the shores of Canal de Laredo & speak the Nass Language. They are going to a feast given by Qyostigous at Boston's village. Wednesday, December 31: Crowds of Kittistzoo about the gate & amongst them some good looking women malgre the "babine". The men have had a holiday this afternoon to prepare for the festivities of tomorrow. Thursday, January 1, 1835: Busy trading all day. The men after breakfast visited us in the dining hall & after the compliments of the season received a couple of drams. In the evening they assembled in the same apartment & danced with great vivacity till 10, to vocal music. Manson & I danced several reels. The Canadians possess a natural ease of manner equally remote from the free & aisy of the Emerald Isle & the sheepishness so characteristic of Sawney. They sung several paddling songs. Our two Iroquois danced the war dance with great spirit of their tribe & the S. Islanders sung Rule Britannia tolerably well. They all seemed to enjoy themselves highly. Friday, January z: The men today received each an allowance of a Pint of Rum & in their own houses they have been carrying on the war. A number of Neecelowes have been trading. Saturday, January 3: Neecelowes & his people purchasing Rum—a boxing match between an Iroquois & Islander—the latter floored his opponent neatly & came off victor. Sunday, January 4: Promenading with Manson a great part of the day. Am now going to read. Monday, January 5: Neecelowes & Kitamats off. Wednesday, January 7: Few Indians. Am becoming more than ever a prey to indolence & consequently from want of occupation feel the place much duller than last winter, yet employment there is. I have to sum up the expenditure in the Indian Shop for the last month, to calculate the average temperature of each month since April, to finish copying the chart begun on board the Dryad during summer & to arrange in a tabular form the different Indian languages of which I have got vocabularies. Thursday, January 8: Engaged with the Indians all day. Friday, January 9: A small party of Billichoola—they say there are 8 canoes of that tribe at Wacash's village feasting. Saturday, January 10: Summing up expenditure in Trading Shop—now at Robertson. Sunday, January 11: Reading Robertson. Monday, January 12: Today Alick is twenty-one years of age. I hope he is well, poor chiel. Have just been perusing journal of Jany/34. This summer Anderson & I were together from June to Novr, but have not become [ 300 1 united in closer intimacy—rather the contrary—however we are to correspond. Tuesday, January 13: Several of the Haeeltzook belles trading salmon. In the evening Nooghsimad, one of the Billichoola chiefs arrived, he proceeded to Boston's village to settle some quarrel about slavestealing & is to trade tomorrow. Wednesday, January 14: Busy with the Billichoola all day. They call themselves from their river (Nowhalik) No-whalikimich—those here under the command of Nooshimadh inhabit the entrance of the river and are called Koomkotash. Have got the names of 5 or 6 other septs of the tribe more in the interior. In the evg a party of Weetletoch. Thursday, January 15: Trading all day with the Billichoola & Weetletoch who are headed by Taltomich the chief next in importance to Wacash. From the 17th November to the 9th January 180 beaver were traded here besides land otters & martens—in all amounting to £259-19-6. Beaver charged at 24/- per lb.—most likely under valued. The following items go to the Dr. side of the a/c: Goods expended in procuring Furs £ 66-18-7 Servants' Wages for 7V2 weeks 76-13-7 Expense of food for 12 men for Do. 3'18-9 Expense of food for Mess I"I9'5 £149-10-4 Balance in favor of the Coy £110- 9-2 Friday, January 16: Having finished trading with the Billichoola early, conducted them through the blockhouses & two 6 prs were fired at a mark about 3A mile distant on the water. Before departing they requested me to make the weather moderate for the period of their ensuing voyage—two days! [Weather notes only, for five days]. Thursday, January 22: Wacash who has been affected with a vomiting of blood for some days past came last night & applied for medicine, but fearing that should he die his friends might demand payment as is the custom in the interior of the Columbia, I would give him nothing. Boston today pleaded hard in his behalf, but without effect. In the afternoon Wacash departed, in all likelihood offended. It is a pity that the prejudices of the natives oblige one to withhold assistance, where it would probably be of service. [ 301 Friday, January 23: Chychaish trading. This evening have been reading Burns' life & writings. Saturday, January 24: Report says that Wacash is no better. Boston and the chiefs of his sept are going to visit him tomorrow. Sunday, January 25: This evening reading the Scriptures aloud with Manson—he read the raising of Lazarus from the grave & the Conversion of Paul— I the chapters in Samuel relative to David & Jonathan & the touching lament by the former for Saul & Jonathan. Manson proposes in future our reading the Church of England Service to such of the men as are willing to attend. Monday, January 26: Trading & reading Robertson. [Weather notes only, for five days]. Sunday, February 1: On Wednesday, Indians brought intelligence of the approach of the Llama & soon after Quannachanoot appeared & brought a letter dated off Cape Swaine from Captain McNeill & another from Mr Work who was on board. As we did not know how long they might be detained by contrary winds & foul weather & supposing that their apprehensions from the natives would prevent a boat's coming, I set out for the vessel in Quannachanoot's canoe attended by two men. When a little beyond Active's Cove, perceived the Llama about 8 miles farther out tacking, the winds being about ENE. At the sight, the Indians, who soon had begun to despond, paddled with renewed vigour & about dusk we had approached very near, but the wind which during the afternoon had been increasing, blew with great violence accompanied by heavy snow & a thick mist. Could just perceive the vessel bear away for sea ere the fog became too dense. Landed in a gravelly bay & passed a most uncomfortable night under the inverted canoe, where the red man & the whites were all promis- cously huddled as closely packed as herring in a cask. Next morning made a turn along shore & on my return learnt that the vessel was in sight & soon perceived her approaching rapidly—about 10 got on board & was welcomed by McNeill & Work. In the afternoon reached Active's Cove—only received from Mr Work two letters from Uncle Alexander, but was told there is a large case on board for me, which I trust contains the others—a letter from Gairdner & a brief one from Mr McLoughlin. Monday, February 2: The Llama anchored opposite the Fort this forenoon & has commenced to discharge cargo. Tuesday, February 3: Opened the box & found it filled with botanical paper—some strange accident has retarded my dispatches. I cannot suppose it to be negligence on the part of my relatives. [ 302] Wednesday, February 4: Busy with the Indians. In the evening chatting with Mr Work who is a well informed old gentleman. Thursday, February 5: Occupied as yesterday. Friday, February 6: Llama off after breakfast, but the wind being full she has anchored in Pine Bay. Mr W. expects to return about the ist Septr. Saturday, February 7: Busy trading with a band of Kiumuchquetoch— the English vessel is expected in July & is to be accompanied by a steamer for the Coasting trade. Sunday, February 8: Busy with the Indians all day. Monday, February 9: Charming weather. Tuesday, February 10: Indians are making themselves useful in clearing away rubbish. Wednesday, February 11: Two female wolves have been shot lately by the watchman Larard—one brownish blk, whose skin I have preserved & the other grizzly. Thursday, February 12: Strolling about outside & in. Have had the grizzly wolf skinned & skeletonized. Friday, February 13: Gairdner has kindly sent me some numbers of the Athenaum, which I have been daily perusing since the LLama's departure to the neglect of Robertson, which I must resume "toute suite". Have also received from G. a No. of the Edin. Med: & Surgical, & the London Medical Gazette. Sunday, February 14: Incessant rain—day passed in chatting with the Indians & reading the Athenaum. Sunday, February 15: Heavy and incessant rain—a dismal looking day. Reading the Athenaum. Shall now take up Robertson. Monday, February 16: Busy trading with a party of Klinwoalletoch. Owialetoch rooting out stumps. Tuesday, February 17: Have been reading the Athenaum. Troubled with headache during the afternoon. Wednesday, February 18: Raspberries scattered along the bank are beginning to bud, & the birds have commenced their morning carols. Thursday, February 19: Busy with Indians all day. Saturday, February 21: Three canoes of Kiumuchquetoch arrived. Sunday, February 22: Traded 2 skins almost all from Kiumuchquetoch, Monday, February 23: Continue to peruse Athenaums. Wednesday, February 25: Examined the soil in the Swamp behind Fort — it appears rich & is doubtless alluvial. Went more than two feet down. 303 r^ Thursday, February z6: Have today begun cutting the few trees growing in Swamp. Worked for more than an hour—the exercise is beneficial & by practise I will attain somewhat of dexterity in the use of the axe, a useful attainment in this country. Friday, February 27: Again at work in swamp, chopping—reading P.M. the London Medical Gazette. Saturday, February 28: P.M. Some Neecelowes Indians arrived. Have got from Klaliooloosh a census of Boston's gang. There are 175 men capable of bearing arms & 30 boys, 150 women & 42 girls, besides two hermaphrodities qui habent penem & testes que sid non cupidinum—they perform solely the offices allotted to females, blanket weaving &c. At Popaalumsum or Spring Village Island there are 16 lodges. Monday, March 2: Busy with Indians. Having had my hands blistered on Thursday, did not visit Swamp—shot two crows with rifle, in successive shots. Tuesday, March 3: A party of Kittistzoo arrived in the evening. Indians have commenced halibut fishing, but as yet have met with little success— they rake small herring to bait their hooks. Wednesday, March 4: Large shoals of small herring in the bay which attract the divers & anas clangula. Have received an explanation of some of the names used amongst the natives. Klalpa that given to the sons of chiefs in their boyhood, means a young whale indicating that a chief's son is or ought to be as fat as that animal, on account of the quantity of oil & other food presented to him by the people. Thursday, March 5: Reading the life of Edmund Burke. Am deplorably indolent—the fault is entirely my own, but the dull monotony of the place has a strong influence—the arrival of strangers always gives me an impulse & for some time after, I perform with greater alertness both selfimposed & public duties. Friday, March 6: Nothing notable. The loss on the Coast Trade for 1832 has been estimated at £4000—the gain on this place for 1833— £300—M. supposes the former an overestimate, the latter an under. Before 1830 the Bostonians never traded blankets for beaver, nor guns. Saturday, March 7: A number of Indians employed in rolling away stumps—8 canoes of Neecelowes Indians have arrived in the Sound and encamped about 3 miles from the Fort—they have come for the purpose of collecting & trading herring spawn. Week's trade 16 skins. [Weather notes for eight days]. Monday, March 16: Resumed my labors in the swamp, felling & cutting [ 304] up the trees, assisted by Francis worked for about an hour & a half before breakfast. Trade for the last fortnight very dull. Am going on with the Life of Burke & derive from it much information regarding the politics of his era. Wednesday, March i8: Wacash has been trading. He & a large party of his gang are going to visit Sebassa & thereafter to proceed to the Kitloah River to procure oolachan oil. Thursday, March 19: Thermomr. at noon in the sun 80 °. Sowed cabbage seeds. Friday, March 20: Informed by Neecelowes that there is a river of considerable size at Kitloah which in its windings approaches near to the Billichoola & by a portage of no great length the two tribes communicate with each other—there is the same again between the Kitamaat & Cuspian streams. Saturday, March 21: Herring have entered the Sound & are depositing their spawn in the neighbourhood of the Kokwietoch village, now in Kyeet's Cove—long trains of gulls & black ducks are hourly seen passing to & fro in the opening, but not nearly so numerous as they were at a later season last period—on the 17th saw a flock of geese on their northern journey for the first time. Tuesday, March 24: About two inches of snow this morning. By noon snow melted away in the clearance—few Indians. Have finished the life of Burke & begun that of Johnson by Boswell, a work I have long desired to peruse. Tuesday, March 24: [Two entries for the same day]. Have got as a patient Klalpa, Boston's son, affected as I suppose with Laryngitis. He is lodged in the house of an Indian who has encamped at the beach for some weeks. All the grandames of the village are assembled around him, some singing & exorcising & others beating time to the music by striking one stick on another laid on the ground. The Klupshalligilish or physician is also in attendance but appears to interfere but seldom. Shonatlh a young man about the age of Klalpa sits constantly beside him ministering whatever is required. Our people are now hoeing the cleared space at south end of Fort— the "sauvages" have already rolled away most of the stumps, some of which are of prodigious size. Wednesday, March 25: The weather is colder than at this period last year, but vegetation in the clearance is more advanced—rasp bushes were budding a fortnight ago & the Elder of which there are a few saplings, is shooting forth leaves. Have got from the Indians an account of the population of the Kokwietoch & Weetletoch villages but the correctness of either [305] is very problematical. In Owiallah's village there are 15 houses, 100 men, 50 boys, 100 women & 50 girls & 4 valuable slaves! counted among the free—this is too exact to be the result of an enumeration—it has more probably been formed from conjecture, but is perhaps not very wide of the truth. In Wacash's village there are 23 houses, 215 men, 210 women, 25 children not counted with the others & 140 slaves—they are represented by all as more numerous than either the Kokwietoch, or Owieletoch. The number of Wacash's village is 590 which averages 25V2 for each house— for Boston's village the particulars are mentioned Febr. 28—the gross number is 399—say 400—16 houses— averaging exactly 25 for each domicile. In Wowiallah's—304—13 lodges—average 23 & nearly Vz, but the slaves not enumerated. 590, 399, 304—total—1283 (sic). Friday, March 27: Am much pleased with the life of Johnson—would that I could store my mind with all the sage observations interspersed throughout the work. Boswell acted a wise part in so assiduously cultivating the friendship of a man so capable of instructing & if he bore his occasional roughness with more than ordinary patience, it is to be remembered, that he was much his junior & had received many instances that his friendship for him was sincere. Saturday, March 28: Beaver trade of late very dull. Have consequently had more leisure. Finished yesterday the chart of the N.W. American Coast begun in the Dryad—it extends from Lat 51-50 to 57-30 & contains some corrections made by later observers chiefly by Capt: Duncan. Today brought the Meteorological Register on to Febr/35. The average temperature of the different seasons of 1834 is as follows: Spring—42-46. Summer —56-20. Autumn—56-31. Winter—40.27. 170 rainy days. Tuesday, March 31: Occupied all day with a party of Billichoola who arrived during the night. In their village (the Koomkotash) there are 13 houses, larger 'tis said than the Haeeltzuk—allowing 25 inhabitants to each house—325 is the population of the village. Got from Noogshimadh the chief & his brother 20 very fine beaver. On Sunday I visited the grave of the late Qyostijuice who was Chief of the Owialetoch sept before Boston. The family sepulchre is at the foot of Weweeshla nearly opposite Pt Portlock, but more to S. & is in a small cave or niche. The cave is about 20 feet long & six wide—for about half its length it is open above, but posteriorly it is overarched with a granite roof & blocks of the same rock form the walls. Logs laid longitudinally & transversely in the bottom form a dry bed for the coffins of which there are two—these are large chests of native manufr. & contain besides the body, skins, blankets, masks & all the paraphernalia HH of Tseetsaiak or conjuring. Over the coffins heavy cedar boards are laid which completely cover & conceal them. In the mouth of the cave brusn- wood is placed to obstruct the ingress of wolves or robbers, & as a further protection, a bath blanket steeped in urine is placed at the inner end but does not now emit any disagreeable odour. 5 wooden figures resembling the arm & hand in a extended position were deposited in a niche in the wall— they as well as the masks bear the general name of nawilock. Wednesday, April 1: A party of Chyshilla trading. Thursday, April 2: Visited by Wowialla who says that a party of Kiumuchquetoch now at Wacash's have given out that one of the New Caledonia Forts has been surprised & the inmates massacred—the gentlemen's name Mr Deers—the number of men 7. Friday, April 3: Sebassa & his brother Nishwayachts, a corpulent monster, have arrived tis said with abundance of beaver. Sebassa has been lately at Fort Simpson & I hope has got a note from thence. A census of the Eestsesstlich a branch of the Witstah or Haeeltzuk gives 160 males, 130 females, & 15 slaves— 11 houses, averaging 27 2/3 per house. Sunday, April 5: The following lines apply to what I have often observed of Mt Rainier in the summer evenings at Nusqually: "The rosy tints, which summer evening yields—Upon the lofty glacier's virgin snow—The blush of earth embracing with her heaven". Tuesday, April 7: Several of the men have of late been affected with ulceration of the gums, loss of appetite, livid petechiae on lower extremities & dull pains in the limbs, in short an aggregation of symptoms resembling Land Scurvy—Purgatives & a variety of gargles, & a decoction of Pine Tops drunk plentifully have been the remedies employed but hitherto with little success—the diet of the people has been changed from dried salmon 5 times a week & salt salmon & rice twice to pease & ducks or whatever other fresh provisions are procured from the natives. Today visited the old village seat where I last spring obtained the shelly gravel—brought home a quantity of Nettles & the herbaceous plant so much eaten by the natives in May & June. It was reported this evening that an Indian has been murdered at the Owialetoch Village—on my return home I must have passed, a short time before it happened. Wednesday, April 8: Sebassa & his brother traded 13 large beaver. Not a canoe appeared today from Boston's village. Sebassa seems uneasy and anxious to be off. Last night when the Bilbilla canoes were leaving the beach, he had three or four armed sentinels placed in different stations around his house to show his watchfulness. [307] Sunday, April i z: Heavy showers of rain on Thursday—went with the boat to Munskumachtlie to obtain herbage for the sick. Saw Geese & 6 or 8 deer who had been driven to the beach by a pack of wolves who were howling in full chorus in the woods behind. Monday, April 13: With the assistance of Francis & two Indians, got all the timber in swamp cut up & piled, ready for burning,—some days ago by destroying a beaver dam forming the bason gave free exit to the stream & lowered the water in the bason nearly 18 in: some further clearing away of rubbish will yet be necessary before the swamp is throughout sufficiently dry for cultivation. Tuesday, April 14: The Indian who was murdered the other day at Boston's Village, suffered, from his being supposed to have caused by magic the death of a man last winter. He was shot, while sitting at the beach, evacuating & lived till night. To dispose of his property to his different relations—his friends proposed to convey him here, incase anything could be done for his preservation, but he objected, saying "tis good that I die". According to the custom of the tribe with persons who die by the knife or gun, his remains were burnt. He did not bear a very high character at the I Fort, but I never saw him behave ill & he used to profess great attachment to the whites. His fate has struck me the more as I lately had dealings with him, (in exchanging a canoe & had employed him to make a small model of a canoe). Friday, April 17: Several parties of Nucelowes Indians—among them a hideous looking monster, said to be of the feminine gender. An immense head covered with a profusion of coal black hair, heavy unmeaning face with a trencher-like underlip, on the broad basis of which the tongue is continually lolling—short stumpy figure & hanging breasts—sledge hammer fists—& enormous feet—description entirely fails in representing the appearance of this lusus naturae & I regret my inability to portray her form with the pencil. Voice, masculine, but rather cracked. Saturday, April 18: Went to the Swamp before breakfast & shot a drake with rifle. Knocked his head to pieces—distance about 60 paces. Sometime ago finished Boswell's Life of Johnson & I hope have benefited by its perusal. Monday, April 20: A canoe of Quaghcuils arrived—the chief man has few beaver, but several slaves to trade. An invitation from Kaschetasso was soon brought & he departed. Tilqueetimy the person who committed the late murder at Boston's village was one of the bearers—he was pointed out to me by one of his companions, who spoke as follows—there is my brother who has killed the man, he is a brave fellow not afraid of a bull—a complete [308] warrior. I replied that in my opinion he had acted in a treacherous & cowardly manner having taken his adversary by surprise, but this of course to him seemed very absurd. The murderer was armed with a gun & seemed ill at ease often glancing suspiciously around. Tuesday, April 21: Yesterday & today occupied in making a vocabulary in a tabular form of the different Indian languages of which I have collected words—they are the following—Nusqually, Noosclalom, Haeeltzuk Billichoola, Gueetilla or Nass, Haida or Queen Charlotte's Island & Tum- gass or Kittichunnish. Have had a Nucelowes & Milbank indian giving me the words of their proper languages. Wednesday, April 22: In the forenoon occupied as yesterday—after dinner went to the swamp, accompanied by some Indians & employed them in burning the piles of wood—at their request, fired some shots with rifle & came pretty near the mark. They seemed surprised to see it carry truly for such a distance. Large flocks of the White Goose passed today on the journey towards the Arctic Regions. Black Ducks scarce for the last 10 days. Thursday, April 23: At the swamp this morning hoeing a spot for radishes —a very fine day. Saturday, April 25: Indians removing to Halibut Station. Sunday, April z6: Numbers of canoes passing—a quarrel at the beach between Tilqueetimy the late assassin & Emaskin a friend of the deceased— no bloodshed but a display of arms & loud talking. Monday, April Z7: Rain incessant since noon. The matter uppermost in my mind today was leaving this service at the expiration of my contract. I begin to long to revisit "the busy haunts of man". My daily occupation now is a tedious higgling with greedy savages about the price of beaver &c. talking with M about the weather—prospects of crop & of trade during the summer. Tuesday, April 28: Several parties of Boston's people encamped in the Bay & we are likely to have them as disagreeable neighbours during the summer. Wednesday, April 29: Indians still camping along the bay. Thursday, April 30: A case of acute Pleurisy has occured in the person of Quintal, our Steward or Waiting man. Friday, May 1: Today, am two years in the Indian Country. Cannot say I am fonder of it now than was a year ago, rather the reverse. Saturday, May 2: Yesterday new fallen snow on Koweet, a hill nearly opposite. Humming birds seen ten days ago. Sunday, May 3: Musquitoes seen. Occupied all day with the Indians. 309 Monday, May 4: Trading with Billichoola & procured upwards of 40 skins. Tuesday, May 5: Bathed in the sea—water rather cold. Before breakfast went as far as Spruce Bay in the canoe & visited Papaalum or Spring Island, now untenanted save by dogs & crows. Wednesday, May 6: Bathed in the swamp & visited S. Plain—violets & Coptis Trifolia in flower. Saw an osprey pursued by a crow across the channel —he had just dived & clutched a fish & was retiring to the woods to devour his prey when the crow perceived him & gave chase—this is not mentioned by Wilson. Thursday, May 7: Yesterday a man died in one of the houses at the beach—for nearly 24 hours before his death a constant wailing was heard from the lodge. Visited the lodge yesterday & found the sufferer moribund— his head was adorned with down, & supported by a male relative, face painted & body covered with a new blanket. Close by stood an open chest intended for the coffin—at his feet sat a grey haired crone who chaunted the dirge or coronach in which several other women who sat around occasionally joined—he died about 11 —& about 2 P.M. his coffin was conveyed in a canoe manned by 3 or 4 hands across to Qyostijuic's cave & there deposited. Friday, May 8: Made a trip in canoe this morning with Francis as muneechstie or bowsman to a deserted village seat about 3 miles beyond Point Myers & on the same island—course from the Fort easterly. Rasp & currant bushes in full blossom. Tuesday, May 19: Potatoes (5V2 —12 gallon kegs) planted after dinner. Ascended Weeweeshla, a hill immediately opposite the Fort to E. ward. Nothing notable. Monday, May 25: Owialetoch carousing. Wednesday, May 27: Wowiallah arrival last night has renewed the carousal in the village—the Owieletoch are vying in hospitality toward their guest & canoes of noisy Bacchanalians have all day been passing the two villages. Thursday, May 28: Mr Manson purchased a man slave from the Weetle- toch about a fortnight ago. The price paid was 10 R.B. Blankets 3V2 pt, Va Gal: Gunpowder, 50 balls, 20 leaves Tobacco, 1 Pint Pot 2nd hand, 3 Gals Mixed Rum, 1 Trading Gun—much worn. The slave named Tom was employed with the people & occasionally in hunting— he returned lastnight from an unsuccessful excursion & this morning disappeared & 'tis supposed has either run away in company with a female slave [310] 1 or gone to spend a day or two with her "under the greenwood trees". Have received from the Indians a specimen of hawk agreeing with the description of the Falco Borealis of Wilson. Its Indian name is Hyalala or the Quarreler, from his attacking other birds. Saturday, May 30: No appearance of Tom. Sunday, May 31: Busy with Indians. Have not opened a book. Lastnight enjoyed a pleasure I had long promised myself namely reading old letters. Monday, June 1: Horribly dull. Tuesday, June 2: Visited by two canoes of the Kitchaatla or Sebassa men, who presented the skins of a recently killed Sea Otter & beaver & traded the latter. After a short stay during which they seemed distrustful of the intentions of the natives & had their weapons in readiness, they set out to rejoin a party of their countrymen who are hunting the Sea Otter at Yulath, a group of rocky islets to the Westward—their paddles were painted black, a practice adopted by all the N.W. tribes when desirous to travel unobserved. Wednesday, June 3: This morning went to the summit of the hill at the head of the lake, an elevation probably of 400 feet above the level of the sea. Found a crane's nest in the plain containing two eggs which Francois broke in carrying home—fired at one of the birds with rifle but missed. The nest was formed of a few dry cedar twigs placed in an open situation on a mossy islet in a small pond. Thursday, June 4: From the summit of the hill yesterday, I distinctly saw the ocean, & part of the passage opening into the Sound a little beyond Active's Cove which we have termed Raymond's Passage after an American who navigated it—saw also two lakes in the interior of Island—the NWest- ern face of hill is very steep & is covered with some majestic specimens of Spruce Hemlock & Sapin blanc. Friday, June 5: A prey to indolence. Tonight thinking of home, of school & college mates. Reading the Lady of the Lake with Manson. Wednesday, June 10: Reading Dwight on the ResurrecWWI Friday, June 12: Large sharks daily seen in the Bay. The potatoes are appearing—Onions & carrots thriving. Shot a sawbill with rifle at the upper end of lake. Tuesday, June 16: Wolves numerous this morning on the hill behind. Set out after them with carabine & saw three, but could not fire. Two were black & one reddish brown—they trotted clumsily away on seeing me, looking occasionally round seeming not much alarmed, but did not give time for me to bring the rifle to bear on them. 3" Wednesday, June 17: The arrival of an American vessel reported— supposed the Ship Europa—Allan. Thursday, June 18: No news from Jonathan. Friday, June 19: Some Indians returned from Kyeet's Cove report that the Bolivar Dominis, Europa Allan & Llama McNeill are there anchored & trading at the rate of three large blue barred blkts for two large beaver, or in lieu of the third Blanket a large quantity of either Rum, Molasses or Rice. Tariff here altered from a Blkt & 2 leaves Tobacco per beaver weighing iVz lbs to 1 RB Blkt, 1 gal. Rum & 1 Hand Tobacco or 1 BB Blkt & 2 hands Tobacco. Tonight Manson has penned an epistle to be forwarded by Indians to McNeill tomorrow. Saturday, June 20: Klalpa this morning delivered to Mr Manson a letter from Capt: McNeill dated yesterday Kyeet's Cove confirming the indians report except as regarding the trade. 1 Blkt, 1 Gallon Rum & 2 Hands Tobacco being the price given, or instead of the Rum 2 Gallons Indian Molasses or 1 Molasses & Vz gallon Rice. After breakfast with five men in the boat I set out to visit the Llama & on nearing Kyeets Cove found her under sail preceded by the Bolivar & followed by the Europa all outward bound. Remained on board for more than an hour & reached home at dusk. The vessels arrived on the 16th & are now destined for Newity & will probably revisit the Sound in returning northwards. They have traded about 300 skins & having acted in concert while here are to divide the returns. Allan's outfit is nearly expended now consisting of only 200 blkts, some cottons & calicoes. Dominis' is extensive & varied, but he is to go in quest of Sea otter to California in about two months—McNeill has since the spring secured 700 skins. Ft Simpson returns a month ago were 800 skins—about the same as those of this place. Wednesday, June 24: Busy trading cedar bark. Thursday, June 25: The Northern tribes—Kygarnie, Tumgass & Chimmesyan are reported to be in a very disturbed state & several murders have been committed. My old acquaintance,, Cootenah remarkable for his abstinence from Rum has fallen a victim to the relations of a man he slew, while the Vancouver lay in Tumgass last winter (33). The tranquility here has been interrupted by the visit of a band of Sebassa Marauders. They set out with the intention of attacking the Billichoola & Estetuch, but finding these tribes prepared for their attack, they bent their course to the Southward & meeing in Fisher's Canal (I suppose with some canoes of Quashilla bound for Nawitie)—they invited to land & eat with them. All the canoes but one obeyed the invitation but the owner of the latter suspicious of treachery [ 3J2] landed on a rocky islet within gunshot of the Point. The Kitchaatlah intermingling with their guests drew their knives at a given signal & began the attack. The Quashilla being poorly armed fled but three of their number were killed & three women captured. The possessor of the rocky islet fired repeatedly on the Kitchaatlah & shot two. Sunday, June 28: Reading a vol. of the Universal Magazine for 1780 lent us by Capt: McNeill. Monday, June 29: A canoe of Chimmesyans arrived & traded two beaver—no chiefs amongst them nor any commoners with whom I was acquainted last summer. No news Elk skins much valued by the Coast Indians procured from Queen Charlotte Island & Stikine—one now before measures 8 spans in breadth & 13 in length—it is poorly dressed being hard— is said to be of middling size & quality—two of this description are equivalent to a large beaver skin—three of the best kind are sold for two large beaver. The Chimmesyans give 15 elk skins for a slave boy about 12 or 14 years of age besides a small quantity of powder, ball, paint, Tobacco &c. In their feasts—the Chiefs present their guests of rank with elk skins whole & the lower orders with strips of the same. The Haeeltzuk dispose of their elk skins to the Billichoola, who fabricate them into shoes & leggings. A species of shell in which the prismatic colours are finely blended & whose inner surface presents an ever varying hue is also much valued—4 square pieces each from two to two & a half inches in diameter were yesterday purchased from the Chimmesyans for a large beaver—they are slightly concave & the inner surface marked with several fissures which are regarded as blemishes—outer surface perforated with numerous small holes as if worm eaten which together with any degree of concavity diminishes their value, are said to be procured from the Americans & are esteemed by all the coast tribes. Tuesday, June 30: No trade nor arrivals. Have been reading in the U.M. lectures on Modern History, the era of Charlemagne. Friday, July 3: This morning at dawn the village was put in uproar by the rumour of an arrival of Queen Charlotte Island Indians. Several canoes of young men armed with guns, spears started for the supposed scene of action, Wowiallah's village, but returned about 10 A.M. having found instead of a hundred canoes of Haida pillaging & kidnapping (as was expected) 17 canoes of Chimmesyans headed by Ligeich peacably employed at Wacash's village, blowing down on the Haeeltzuk chiefs head & drinking rum. The Owieltoch were much alarmed & Boston begged that if the news proved true we would shelter their women & children in the Fort. Told him he had better encamp on an island as whatever should happen we would [313] iP*" not interfere unless ourselves annoyed. Reports were afterwards received that some Indians who had gone to the Sward had been slain by the Sebassa men, their women & children taken captive—since then the women in all the lodges have been chaunting a mournful lament for the supposed sufferers—the burthen of the song is frequently interrupted by screams & sobbing. In the evening Looking Glass arrived & presented a letter from Mr. Work to Mr M. All well on the 20th ult. Saturday, July 4: Ligeich & a great number of his people passed the day here causing a great stir. The Chimmesyan canoes lay in a row in front of the village & owing to the traffic carried on in Earshells, Oolaghans &c. there was as much noise & din almost as at a country fair at home. In the evening on departing they traded about a dozen beaver. Sunday, July 5: The village today & lastnight in an astounding uproar owing to a report that a fleet of Quaghcuil war canoes were in sight. Thursday, July 9: Wrote Kennedy by Looking glass & sent him the Periodicals I received from Gairdner. Wednesday, July 15: Today & yesterday occupied in trading & preparing the accounts of the place. Friday, July 24: Reported that McNeill & Dominis are anchored in Actives Cove—confirmed by a note from McNeill to Manson. Saturday, July 25: News of yesterday antedated a day. Sunday, July 26: Mr M. visited Active's Cove & returned in the afternoon accompanied by the two Captains. Monday, July Z7: Sat up till daylight, chatting & discussing Madiera & Rum toddy. Received a letter from Mr Charlton, Oahu. Visited the Llama & Bolivar & purchased some shoes from Dominis. Wednesday, July 29: Vessels off to the Nward this morning. Wednesday, August 5: Three canoes of Quaghcuils arrived. Friday, August 7: Quaghcuils trading. Monday, August 1 o: A party of Billichoola—rich in beaver but unwilling to trade from our want of Blue Barred Blankets. 10 fathoms of poor Hayoquas are given for a large beaver—2 of the best. Tuesday, August 11: Billichoola traded 18 beaver. Wednesday, August 12: Busy with the Indians. Friday, August 14: A large band of Quaghcuils. Tuesday, August 18: Trading from dawn till dusk. Wednesday, Augusi 19: As yesterday. Thursday, August 20: Taking inventory. [314] Tuesday, August 25: Have been occupied with the accounts which are now finished I must immediately commence letterwriting. Wednesday, August z6: Copying weather register. Thursday, August 27: Occupied as yesterday. Sunday, September 13: On the nth LLama arrived & today departed. Work on board. Coast returns about 4600. Allan's 1200. Dominus 900. McNeill 1700? Ft Simpson 1200? Ft McL 1500. Have written U.A.J. Fr., W. Ponton, Gairdner, Ogden, McDonald, Dr Hooker, Grouler, Mr McLoughlin. Received by Work's return a long & kind letter from Ogden. Have sent Francois Bercier to Vancr having at this place no occasion for his services & of late I have frequently been annoyed with complaints of his bad conduct which were generally discovered on enquiry to be well founded. Monday, September 14: A party of Quaghcuils trading—they sold about half of their skins and carried off the remainder inclusive of two Sea Otters— on account I suppose of the deficiency in goods at this place. Tuesday, September 15: Now three years since I bid adieu to the shores of Britain, and my liking for the Hudson's Bay Service is by no means increasing. Have made enquiries at U.A.J. & W Ponton as to the probabilities of success as an emigrant to Canada or New South Wales with a capital of 3 or 400 £ stg. Tuesday, September zz: Had canoe carried to the lake & proceeding in it to the further extremity made a long tournee in the woods behind & fell on several smaller lakes, but found all destitute of game. Saw several small birds of elegant plumage, but gun being wet did not shoot any. Monday, September 28: Had a long walk in the rugged barrens to N. of Lake. Made for the sea & fell on it about the further extremity of Pine Bay. Returned by the lake. The open spots abound with flocks of small birds about the size of a Fieldfare (yellow bill red breast & fawn colored body). Thursday, October 1: Made a trip to Lake but met with no game. Have within the last fortnight read Robertson's America, a most instructive work & written in a perspicuous & attractive style. Finished it on Tuesday & would have immediately commenced a reperusal had not Manson been engaged with it—since have read St Ronan's Well, which is an old acquaintance but no great favorite and today finished a narrative of the "causes which led to the death of "Major Andre" by a Joshua Smith the person who accompanied him on his return from the conference with Arnold to the Vulture Sloop of War, which lay at the entrance of Hudson's River. It appears that the amiable & highly gifted Andre was unjustly treated as a spy, he being in possession, 315 when taken, of a passport from Arnold then a Genl. in the service of Congress & commander of the troops in that district of country. Friday, October z: Large flocks of geese & cranes passing. Today have been occupied in trading. Almost constantly reflecting on the unfortunate fate of Major Andre & have read the most interesting passages relative to it several times, also his beautifully written letters to Anna Seward inserted at the end of the work. Andre was originally a merchant in London, but on a disappointment in love joined the army in America & rose to the rank of Major Adjutant General to the B. Army in the course of a few years. A monument was erected to his memory in Westminster Abbey & his mother received a pension from Govt of £300 per annum, reverting in succession to his three sisters during life. Saturday, October 3: Reading in an old magazine (1781) an account of the war of Independence in America—Britain was then sorely beset with assailants. Tuesday, October 6: Have today begun the second reading of Robertson's America. Thursday, October zz: About the end of last week, abandoned my dwelling to the carpenter who is going to line it with boards, and removed to the Salle a manager where my present abode is. Since Wednesday have not regularly observed the thermomr, but shall from the public journal copy the weather report. This afternoon Cowguele arrives from Ft Simpson with 8 5 bushels of potatoes for this place. Cowguele came in a large Maaset Canoe & his crew consists of his own followers & some Maaset & Skittegats men. They have been quartered in the Indian house & seem very glad to have got such comfortable lodgings. Letters from Nass dated the 12th Inst. Kennedy writes that a large party of Maaset Indians have visited Ft Simpson from whom 400 bushels have been purchased and that being unable to dispose of the remainder of their stock of potatoes, they talk of wintering at Pearl Harbour. Kennedy has endeavoured to induce them to come here, but ineffectually. However it is a point gained that some of them have accompanied Cowguele—all well at Ft Simpson. Friday, October 23: The breeze continues with unabated fury, our guests having last night been supplied with ammunition, started after breakfast in quest of deer and struck into the woods behind Fort. They dropped in singly in the afternoon, complaining of the wind, which enabled the deer to perceive their approach. Several deer were seen but only one shot. Saturday, October 24: Yesterday old Kyeet, father to Wowiallah arrived with an invitation from that chief to Cowguele to visit his village. The NE [316] breeze still continuing prevents his going today. The Maaset & Milbank Indians gambling together but the latter invariably unsuccessful. Sunday, October 25: In the afternoon Cowguele accompanied Kyeet to his village & is to return tomorrow. If they part in amity we may expect another visit from the Haidah ere long. Wednesday, December 23: Since last entry indolence has prevented me from journalizing although several events worthy of notice have occurred. I am now about some statistical information regarding Indians. [Village Houses Chief] 1 Weekenoch—8 houses—Chowshumdash 2 Quashillah—6 houses—Munashim 3 Natatsenoch—30 houses—Quaghilanacumie 4 Quaynoch—7 houses—Halikehaligilish 5 Hywhamish—5 houses—Hyaalkimie 6 Tsawadynoch—8 houses—Coomchilagilish 7 Wheechsootenoch—10 houses—Klakwaalal 8 Keeleketich— 12 houses—Munooguish 9 Tinichtanoch—15 houses—Maquillah 10 Awaeetilh—12 houses—Shehweet 11 Mahteelpah— 1 o houses—Lakinish 12 Leequeeltanoch—20 houses—Maquillah Chachamaadsis 13 Weeweewk—10 houses—Lakinish 14 Weweeakum—5 houses—Luchwhilagilish 15 Thlaluisala—5 houses—Thehweet 16 Kowmoochsheah—7 houses—Machmooshacumie Vancouver's Island: Eastern Shore 17 Tlatlashequillah—10 houses—Yuchyickash or Nawity 18 Quaghcuil nation 18 Quacoom—20 houses—Klaquageilah 19 Queechah—20 houses—Yacowdlas 20 Laqueynealeh—10 houses—Yuchtilh 21 Munkysh—25 houses—Klasheteoalish 22 Mamelikillish—24 houses—No chief of age 23 Chlawdsish—30 houses—Shehweet Western Shore 24 Nekumkilish—4 houses—Kaaleet 19 25 Quatsenoch—15 houses—Munooguish 20 [317) 26 Kowskeemich—23 houses—Klaguageilah 21 27 Klashkalinoch—4 houses 22 Tseeklisheeloch—10 houses—Tootanoosh 23 28 Naspatte 24 to 28 fish the Hayaqua. The finest are washed on shore by the sea. The following is an account of the implement used in fishing them— a flat piece of wood having its inferior surface stuck full of slender wooden pins & properly fitted with sinkers and a line is let down to the Hayaqua bed and gently moved up and down as in Handline Fishing until it is supposed that a sufficient number of the shells are fixed between the pins—the board is then pulled up—the paya picked out. Situation 1 Week—Calverts Isld 2 Guashilla—River's Canal 3 Nalatsenoch—Smiths Inlet 4 Quaynoch 5 Hywhamish 6 Tsawadynoch 7 to 12—Johnston's Straits 13 to 15—Desolation Sound 16 Kowmoochsheah—Northern part of Gulph of Georgia. It was a party of these Indians who carried off the Cadboro' boat &c. 17 Nawity—N. extremity of Vancr's Isld and Isld of Galiano & Valdes. 18 Quaghcuil—Vancrs Isld eastern shore about the Lat: 50-30—during the summer & winter—Loughborough Canal River in the Oolaghan Season. Names of the Moons—Haeeltzuk Deer Chyquileel—Sun returns to N. Jany Nygunachshych Feby Neequnach—Sea water turbid March Tsooashascum—Herring spawn April Shincunagh—Bark stripping begins May Tilwunagh—Bark beaten for blkt making June Skeetlunagh—Salmon spearing begins July Gooltzimmi—Salmon taken in the weirs Augt Youkuscumalah—Rainy Moon Sepr Gooltzimmior—Salmon Octr Youkuscumulah Novr Nolacumich—Porcupines copulate Nanaloshlukageila—Goats [318] Wacash's reply to the query—What is the use or purpose of the Tseetzaika— I know not but it was the custom of our forefathers. The conjuror removes from the village and takes up his abode in the hills at a distance, where he is visited by one or two confidential persons who convey him food &c. While thus secluded he is supposed to confer with spirits, and on his being favored by them depends his future success as an Armbiter ie his expertness in separating the morsel of skin from the arm with his teeth alone. When a knife is required to complete the operation there is no virtue in the bite. The conjuror Wacash in the present instance does not pretend to have seen spirits only to having heard their cries in the night. When a death occurs the spirits of those long before deceased crowd about the dwelling and receive the new member of their society. Wacash cannot say what becomes of the dead—does not seem to be aware of any tradition on this subject, or— 19-20-21—From Lat: 50-10 Northwds 22 Bay to N. of Woody Pt. (Allans Harbr) 23 Nassat—50-3—Supposed no. of souls in each house—25—males 6. Billichoola tzeetzaiak Village Chief Houses 1 Koomkotash Nooshimad 1.1 2 Althilacotash Coolthleowin 7 3 Klisheooalletoch Shesheotte 11 two miles up from 1 4 Choomoaletoch Malasheoo 4 close to 3 5 Nookeetsum 4 6 miles up from 4 6 Ashaanaletoch 5 6 miles from 5 7 Tlatlekytoch Altseagh 5 9 miles from 5 8 Nootletleagh Shenoochyal 6 Head of Nowalik—one branch of the Nowhalik rises from a lake—the other bends to the Southward & takes its origin from a Mt from whence the Quaghcuil River also arises. Both rivers are navigated by war parties—name Shinyanah Atlashimich walk for 1 o days to reach Nowhalik—one day from head of Nowhalik down to the Koomkalash. Two days from K. up to the portage. No portage on Nowhalik. Stream low at this season & stemmed at this season without difficulty—a good path & level country. 10 days joy. from 8 to Atlashimich 3 days joy. from 7 to Tandzinneh 319 f^~ Kyumuchquetoch—Alqualakash 11 —the River full of rapids & falls near the Deans Canal—the sea navigable above. Titalzquetoch I o communicate with Kitamaats inland Thalioetoch 4 Milbank Indians Souls Owieletoch 175 men 400 Kokwyetoch 100 men 590 Wheetletoch 215 men 304 490 men 1294 EDITOR'S NOTE—The diary contains no entries between December 1935 and October 1836 by which time Dr. Tolmie had returned to Fort Vancouver. His journal entries are notes, memoranda and drafts of various letters he has written or proposes writing. [ 320] Notes and Correspondence 1836-42 Vancouver, October 28, 1836: Have again resolved to resume journalizing. Today opened an abscess on the knee joint which discharged about 1 o oz of pus containing large flocculi. Tonight have begun a letter to Alick. During autumn my occupations will be during leisure hours the arranging plants & seeds. Extract from letter to S. Murray: I lost many of the early seeding plants from devoting all my leisure hours to the collection of plants and it was only when the season was somewhat advanced that I turned my attention to seeds. However I know you will excuse me for this—next summer if here, and in the enjoyment of health and sufficient leisure, I hope to make up for deficiencies. Since coming to this country there are two things which in my botanical pursuits give me frequent cause of regret—the first is not having seen the poor deceased Douglas and the second which is of a similar nature the having been absent while the American Botanist Nuttall was here. A few weeks intercourse with either of these veterans would to a tyro such as I am in the science have been invaluable. Order for Clothing and letter to Alick on the subject— Measure for a dress coat i63A In. from bottom of collar to waist $73A In. from bottom of collar to skirt 20 In. from Centre of back to Elbow 33^2 In. from Centre of back to Knuckle 113A In. round centre of arm %Vz In. round wrist 38V2 In. round chest $zVz In. round waist Measure for trousers 24^4 In. from bottom of waistband to small below knee 39V2 In. from bottom of waistband to ancle 23 In. round thigh 14% In. round Knee [321] J 15% In. round Calf Height 5 ft. 7V2. In. Circumference of head 23 in. Durable buttons with catgut in the back* * later deleted £ s d 1 double breasted fancy vest durable material—pattern at your option—say shawl pattern—catgut in the back 1 10 o 1 pr dark drab dble milled Cassimere trousers—stout 1 10 o 1 pr Extra S. fine dark Oxford grey trousers Both the trousers to have the common flap 1 1 o o A few spare buttons & pieces of cloth of each kind 7 6 1 oiled silk Cap best quality 7 6 1 cap—of your own selection—the requisites being lightness & imperviousness to wet 10 o or more 2 best black silk stocks one plain and one with a tie 100 1 dozen Shirt collars—a neat pattern and not too deep 12 o 6 Linen Shirts—at 15/- 4 10 o 1 dozen Shirt collars—a neat pattern and not too deep 12 o 12 cotton Shirts—most durable material & neatest patterns—3/6 220 6 Elastic fine worsted frocks to wear next the skin 7/6 250 1 pr elastic braces double in front 6 o 1 Summer Square cut Coat dark pattern—capacious pockets 200 Some light vests & trousers, latter dark patterns so as seldom to require washing 300 No. 1 — 1 double breasted surtout—dark green—nap—pilot cloth, or something similar of your own selection—velvet collar—to be made to button to the throat. A few prs light socks Dear A—I enclose a bill on the HBC for £20 stg. which sum please lay out to the best advantage in purchasing the articles enumerated in the foregoing list. I wish them all to be of the best quality of their respective kinds and in case the money should not be adequate to the purchasing of all the things specified I would prefer a curtailment on the vests & socks of No 5 and thereafter on No. 10. Send one invoice in the box and another in your letter, and make the tailor you employ (who I presume will be Hamilton) to send a measuring tape in the box, and mention any other measurements he may require for future occasions. 322 £ s d 3 10 0 i 10 0 i 10 0 10 0 5 0 i 5 0 i 16 0 Owing to the late irregularity in dispatching the Vessels—I cannot say how early in 1837 the Columbia may leave London—therefore to ensure their coming by the first opportunity you must get them immediately on receipt of this and forward them at once to London taking every precaution to prevent their miscarrying. The box in which they are packed should be stout and lined with tin—after it is packed, a tin cover should be soldered on to the tin lining so as completely to exclude the air—address it as you do my letters. Ordered from Mr Smith Articles of Clothing 1 extra S. fine black dress coat made to button up to the throat 1 black silk velvet dress vest rolling collar— 1 pr Extra S. fine dark Oxford Grey trousers 1 best black silk neckcloth 1 pr black leather elastic braces 5 silk pocket hkfs 12 broad cotton shirts £10 6 o Books: Hooker's Flora Boreali americana from the 6th part—inclusive— down to that last published from Adolphus Richter & Co the Publishers. Johnsons Medico Chir: Review from the first No published in 1836 up to the latest no published before 1836—up to the departure of the vessel in 1837—inclusive. Lindleys Introduction to the Natl, orders of plants— American Edition if possible. Keith on the Prophecies in the most compact form—the last two to be hlf bound in calf. Dear Sir: I request your attention to the annexed orders for Clothes and Books. I wish the former to be of the best quality. Soon after the Columbia reaches England I expect that a box will arrive for me at the HBHo. which I beg you will forward by the earliest opportunity for the Columbia & insure for £20 stg. With best wishes, I am &c. List of Letters: 1 Dr Hooker— 2 Mr Murray—3 Mrs Capt: Fraser— 4 Mr A. T. Senr—5 Mr A. T. Junr—6 ditto—7 A. F. En—8 W. Smith December 11: Since last, have revisited Nusqually in a professional capacity on account of Mr Finlayson's illness. Retd on the 5th and have since been perusing at leisure hours an article in the Edinr Review 1834 on the Corn Laws. Am now about to reperuse it and make notes of the most interesting facts and arguments therein advanced. The author advocates [323 1 ^asss^ the necessity of a change in the laws respecting the importation of corn —maintains that it is both unjust and inconsistent with sound policy to tax the community for the benefit of any particular class and asserts that when the public burdens are made to press equally on any given number these classes cannot complain if in their respective trades or occupations they have to compete on mutually equal terms with foreign producers. But when taxation bears with peculiar severity on any particular body, they are entitled to an equivalent protection by countervailing duties on the articles they produce when imported—Agriculturists pay more taxes than any other class and may therefore justly demand that a duty equivalent to these extra burdens be laid on foreign corn, but they are entitled to nothing more than this— which wd put them on a level with the mercantile, and monied classes. About 42,000,000 qrs of the difft. sorts of grain are annually produced in Britain and a duty of 6 or 7 shillings per qr on this quantity would be equal in arnot. to the 12 millions of extra charges laid on the agriculturists. The average price of British Corn for the 10 years ending with 1832 was 61/8; for the 10 preceding years 86/3—the fall in price being about 25/- a quarter. Wheat at Warsaw costs 28/- per qr, but shipped from Dantzic it would cost the English merchant 48/- which with a duty of 6/- would be 54/-. Supposing that from the increased demand from Dantzic which would follow the opening of the ports at a fixed duty of 6/- that foreign corn could be sold with a reasonable profit at 55/- this wd only cause a fall in the English prices of 6/- per bushel, but the author allows that they might fall 8 or 10/- & argues that this would be no detriment to the Agriculturists, for while corn fell 25/- Agriculture did not retrograde—the imports were trifling & the population of Britain increased about 2 mill: Corn is the principal return which Prussia, Russia and the other countries have to give for British manufactures & of course the demand for the latter would be much increased were these countries permitted to send corn to England at a reasonable duty. At present it is not an object with any of them to raise corn for the British Market, & when Britain now seeks the continental markets the purchases must be made with bullion, or by the sale of manufactured goods at a ruinously low price. Dantzic is by far the greatest exporting port for corn in the north of Europe—the corn exported thence is raised in the countries watered by the Bug & Vistula a long way to the S. of Warsaw—the corn of the Netherlands is cheaper but inferior in quality. Odessa in the Black Sea, is also a great exporting town, but its wheat is not so valuable by 7 or 8/- pr qr. as average English wheat the price fluctuates from 24 to 40/-. Neither America nor Canada could supply 324 wheat at lower terms than Dantzic or Odessa. Canada wheat is rather lower priced than American, but being spring wheat it is proportionally less valuable. In a table giving the imports of Foreign Corn in 1831 & the quantities received from each country, I find that corn is imported from almost all parts of the civilized world—the following is a list of the more important ones. Russia—qrs 937^3^3 Ist Denmark 278 5th Prussia 481 3rd Germany 395 4th Italy 260 6th BNA Colonies 226 7th U.S. America 488 2nd (Report of Post Mortem inspection of D. Martin follows here). The Cyclopedia of Practical Medicine—Edited by John Forbes M.D.— Alexander Tweedie M.D. & John Conolly M.D In the most compact form & to be full bound. Vancouver, April 4, 1837: Dear Sir—I beg your attention to the above order, and have also to request that on receipt of this, you will forward to the address of James Tolmie Esq. Surgeon Ardersier N Britain the sum of £ 1 o Stg. on account of— Since the day it arrived I have contrary to expectation seen or heard nothing of Ouvre's deposition against Mr Heron, but, in glancing hurriedly over it I perceived that it was falsely asserted that the Fort had been left in charge of only one man—On referring to a private journal— Letters 6th April—1837: 1 A T. Senr 2 A T. Junr 3 J. T 4 A.F 5 Geo Simpson 6 Wm Smith 7 Finlayson 8 J. Douglas 9 W G Rae May 5: List of woods: 1 Amel: Ovalis Shtzia—Kayosoh—S. Berry— Ht 12 to 18 feet—cir. trunk avge 6 in.—Berry much esteemed both in the fresh & dried state—an agreeable laxative—wood hard susceptible of a good polish—used for Gunrods. 2 Cerasus—Ekkekas—B not eaten— 15 to 20 feet, a very ornamental tree. 3 Pyrus Kiv: Amuyayas—20 to 30 ft. cir 12 to 15 in:—Throughout NC & as far N. as Stikine Sound. Berries much esteemed by the N. W. C. Indians mixed with oolaghan or pilchard oil—wood used for needles 4 Acer Circin: Tuanuass a large & graceful tree. Cascade Indians bend its boughs into hoops to which the bay nets are fastened. Kliketats make their Kamass sticks of the branches. 5 Tuchs—River Indians make Sturgeon lines and the Kliketats weave baskets of its bark. 6 Rhamnus? Muchsineas—Kliketats make arrows of the shoots 7 Sukkimss 325 *_J —Acer: Macrophyll: Kliketats make shinties of the branches. Contains much sap. The Canadians are beginning to use it. 8 atteetas, Bears fond of its its berries 9 Cornus Florida—Wusputtas 1 o Scomut Rh: ? trunk 5 or 6 in dr.—salmon spears made of its wood 11 Sa-chee 12 Corylus—Cacoosa 13 Quercus—Tsoneeps 14 Fraginus—Muchy-wa-sas 15 Populus—Chu puclip 16 Alnus — Uchah 17 Cornus Pigeon Berry — Loh tzanee 18 Cratagus—Cus-lowa-tas 19 Rhamnus—Soo soo leas 20 Sambucus —Mi ti pas 21 Rhamnus—Wacaiee 22 Pinus—Sas coopas 23 Tayus Wa wa neens 24 Lucutzin 25 White Pine Tassas—A tall tree branchless almost to the top—rare in the neighbourhood of Vancr. but abundant in the Interior 26 Pinus Banksiana—Wood heavy 30 to 40 ft—Canadian name Cypres, not found at Vancr., very common in the N.W.C. in swamps —on Mt Rainier range of mts it is found, a stunted bush growing on the edge of the perpetual snow 27 Laurel—20 to 30 feet 28 Noo-wyas- 60 to 100 ft 29 Paps—Pinus Douglasei 30 Ahow—Larix. Extract from letter to S. Black, Okanagan, June 24, 1837: I send a phial of which when the pain is troublesome thirty drops may be taken in water as often as three or four times in the course of the 24 hours—also some tonic pills of which one should be swallowed every mg on getting up— and some lax pills similar to those of last year. Besides using these medicines I would recommend your adopting the following regime—Get up about 2 hours before breakfast & if the wr & season be favorable walk two or three miles at a gentle pace. Take one or two short walks in the course of the day and retire to bed at an early hour. Use such articles of diet as you find to agree best with your stomach. Make four light meals daily and endeavour to rise from each with some slight remaining appetite. Letter to A.C. Henderson, June 24: Treatment recommended for supposed chronic Hepat: If again attacked & the symptoms should prove severe you must take blood from the arm until some mitigation be experienced and afterwards cup and blister the affected part. Immediately after the bleeding take one of the powders contained in the bag and six hours thereafter Vz an oz or an oz Sulph: Mag: [Locations only given for list of plants which follows here]. Mr Manson, since his arrival has been so unconveniently quartered, that I have merely used local applications, feeling loathe to commence any plan of treatment for eradicating his troublesome complaint, until he should be more commodiously lodged. It being now ordered, that he is to return immediately to the Coast, I shall briefly mention the methods intended pursuing, in case you may deem [326] any of them worthy of being adopted. I should have recommended fine cotton to be worn next the skin instead of flannel and endeavoured by wide & roomy dress & adhesive but unirritating plasters to the inflamed patches, to dispense with the use of Saturni (?) Lotion, which as at present employed, is exceedingly troublesome & perhaps keeps up a chronic catarrh to which he is subject. I would have sedulously watched the effect, of each article of diet, on the disease by comparing his condition with the food used & discontinued such as were found to disagree. As constitutional remedies I would have put in practice the different means proposed by Mackintosh—sulphur baths occasionally—internal use of Lime Juice, which by the way might also be a good external application, if the dilute Citrine Oint: and adhesive plaster he has got, do not answer. Next I would try a solution of Corrosive Sublimate in Alcohol 4 gr to the oz in the dose of 10 drops thrice daily gradually augmenting it to 30 or 40 drops each time. These failing the succeeding measure would have been an alternative course—Blue Pill in nightly 4 gr doses until slight Ptyalism was induced, and lastly I would tho' reluctantly have had recourse to the Arsenical Solution commencing with 5 drop doses twice daily. I think the trip will of itself have a good effect, for he is better now and seems to think less about his complaint, than on arrival. (Description of lynx killed in 1838 follows). Specimens for Inverness Museum: 1 Male & female of Tetrao urophasianus —killed at Walla Walla on the Columbia River 1838. 2 Male of the Tetrao Ridiardsoni. 3 Owl Strix Tengmalmi v. Acadica 4 Rate 5 Mole 6 Hare 7 Cones—of Douglas's pine & the White Pine—for W. W. Mil- burn with W F T's respects 8 Skin of Columbia Rattlesnake 9 Basin carried by the Haidah Indians inhabiting Queen Charlotte's island. 10 Pipes—the same as 9—11 Masks used by the Indians on the N.W.C. at their winter feast & dances 12—Robe and Leggings of deer skin worn by the nomadic tribes of the interior Columbia 13 Head Dress procured from an Interior Indian 14 Chenook Scull 15—Specimen of dagger manufactured by the natives of Queen Charlotte's Island—ornamented with pieces of shell brought from California 16—Fishing Hooks used by the natives of Trinidad Bay 17—Hooks used by natives N.W.C. for catching Halibut —the barbed part no 1 is baited, & the projecting pointed piece prevents the escape of the fish when hooked—the tippet or snood is made of wrought cedar bark 18—arrows from Trinidad Bay—Lat. 44 ° 19—carved wood- [ 327] en dish from NW Coast 20 Specimens of Fresh water shells found at Ft Vancouver 21 Caudal appendages of the Sturgeon, used by the Col: River Indians as counters in gambling. Vancouver, October 24th, 1838: Dr Sir—Having long felt desirous to present the Museum of my native town with specimens of the majestic Cock of the Plains I at length have the pleasure of forwarding to your address the skins of a male & female along with the other things, enumerated in the foregoing list. They are forwarded pr the H Bay C's ship Columbia to London in a box addressed as below. I will feel much obliged by your informing me by letter whether they have reached in safety and meantime remain— P.S. In case you should feel surprised at my addressing you as an aquaint- ance I beg to remind you that in 1823 & 24 I had frequently the pleasure of seeing you at the house of my preceptor Mr. John Clark & once, thro' that gentleman's recommendation I had the privilege of seeing your minera- logical cabinet in Church St. Compts Forbes Keith Lyon. Mr Webster for Mr Finlayson: 1—Milbank Blanket 2—Variegated Blanket N.W. 3—Petticoat worn by the Chenook Indians 4—Petticoat worn by Indians of Trinidad Bay 5—Apron worn by the Kalapooya Jugglers when conjuring 6—Caps traded from a Vancr Indian 7—Work-bag or Reticule used by the women in Trinidad Bay 8 Fish Hooks from Trinidad Bay 9—Bag made of Buffalos hide extensively used by the Plain Tribes 10—Pipe stem carved by a Chenook Indian 11—Powder measure in common use in the Columbia 12 & 13 Chenook Baskets 14—Water vessel traded from a Vancr Indian probably originally a Cape Flattery Production 15—Specimen of model of the kind of canoe most esteemed on the NW Coast 16—Model of a Chenook canoe 17— Model of a Cowelitz R. canoe 18—Carved Dish from NWC 19— Queen Charlottes Isld NW 20—Model of Chenook Paddles 21—Model of NWC Paddles 22— Weapon procured from a Chenook Indian 23 Stone Pipes — 3 24 Hare 25 Gannet 26 Hawk 27 Tetrao Uroph: 28 Eagle 29 Bundle of Arrows from Trinidad Bay. List of Packages shipped on board the Columbia by W. F. T. : 1 1 box —G. Anderson Esq. Genl. Secy N. Inst: Invrs. 2. 1 box Js. Webster 73 Great Tower St London 3. 1 bundle—Do. 4. 1 box—Do. 5. 1 box— Geo Simpson Esq—shells 6. 1 box—Do.—Cranium 7. 1 Do. A. Colville Esq. Box of Shells for Geo. Simpson Esq. : ist or lowest tier—Shells from the Eastern Coast of Asia—procured at the Sandwich Isles 2nd Tier—Shells [328] from Ft George pr J. W. McLeod Esq.—Slips of paper accompany each sort mentioning localities &c. 3rd Tier—Shells from Fort Vancouver with notes on each species. (Contents of two more boxes enumerated here). J. Webster Esq. In further execution of the commission left with me by Mr Duncan Finlayson I have now the pleasure of sending you the various things mentioned in the foregoing lists. My attempts to procure cones of the Pinus Lambertian have hitherto been fruitless. Should I be fortunate enough to procure some before the next vessel sails I shall then do myself the pleasure of supplying you. Meantime I remain, Sir Your very obed: servt W. F. Tolmie. A. Colville Esq. Sir Having last season in compliance with a request of Mr D. Finlayson sent you some Seeds & Pine Cones from this country I now in fulfilment of my promise to that effect forward in a box to your address the Cones &c mentioned in the subjoined list. I have as yet failed in obtaining cones of Lambert's Pine, but hope to be more successful the ensuing year. When in possession of some I shall by the first opportunity do myself the pleasure of supplying you. Meantime I have the honor to remain Sir Your very obed: Servt WFT. Geo Simpson Esq. My Dear Sir—accept of my best thanks for your kindness in procuring me permission to visit England. Circumstances having greatly altered at home since I made known to you my wish for leave of absence I have requested Mr Douglas to inform the G & Comm: in reply to this paragraph on the subject that I am not at present desirous of availing myself of their gracious permission. The complaint in my eye I am happy to say is entirely gone. I have now the pleasure of sending the shells you requested along with the others, as mentioned below. By the Spring Express I shall if spared send duplicates of the Vancouver Shells. Dr McLoughlin left me a commission to send you a Chenook Cranium. I have succeeded in procuring a couple and forward them to your address. With sentiments of gratitude & respect I have the honor to be Your Very Obedt. Sert. I shall always be most happy to render you any similar service in my poWer. Meantime with sentiments of gratitude and respect have the honor to remain Dear Sir, Your very obed sert. Extract from letter to Alick 2nd Novr '38:1 enclose a bill on the Hudson's Bay Co for £100 and sorry that I cannot make the sum greater at present. [ 329] ^ My cash account ist June '37 amounted only to £249. I lend you the above sum without expecting any interest, and have only to request that you will take such precautions, as in the event of your demise, or failure, may give me a legitimate claim on your estate for the sum of £100 Stg. I am going to allow Aunt Tulloh £15 annually to assist in the support of old Uncle William and shall write her tonight. In explanation of the passage at the bottom of the first page of this letter I give the following extract from our dear parent's last letter to me "it is unpleasant, giving up business, altho' one is able to pay his debts but old age and infirmities have no excuse. I wish William you were able to pension me with £50 a year. I think I could live with economy with that." In a former, letter it was mentioned that I had been credited with £40 in my father's books, (the amount of a remittance forwarded in 1833). With respect to this I leave it optional with you either to make the dividend over to the Creditors in general, or, in our joint names with it to make some present to Weir, Watson, & Bryson our father's friends, or to keep it to yourself but, if you adopt either of the two latter measures I beg that you will lay first aside £5 as a donation for poor Bell Mathieson. At all events I will bear two thirds of the expence of anything you may give Bell. Tell her with my kind compliments, that as long as I live, she has a staunch friend. Vancouver, Z7th March, 1839: Gvr Simpson My Dear Sir: Accept my best thanks for your kindness in procuring me a furlough. I could not have been spared in 1838, but trust that Mr Douglas's present application for Surgeon to replace me will soon be attended to. The means of improvement in professional knowledge afforded by even a few months residence in London would qualify me for the more effectual performance of medl. duty after returning to the country. Measures sent Novr 3, 1838: Coat From seam of Collar to Waist 17V2 in. From seam of Collar to Skirt 38 From Mid: of back to end of cuff 34V2 From Mid: of back to Elbow 21 Round Chest 39 Round Waist ?>zVz Trousers Waistband 32 ,:.,.. Length from Waistband to seam 42 330. Round thigh 23V2 Round knee 16 Shoes Length of foot with stockg 1 oVa circ: at ball of great Toe §Va circ: at instep 10 I know not whether these measures will suit but you may remember my foot is a trifle shorter & somewhat thicker or broader than your own. Order . 1 Surtout dark claret col: plain col: with spare velvet one— stout silk facings £400 1 Blk Cloth Vest rolling Collar 15 0 1 pr dark grey trousers 1 1 o o 2 light Vests rolling collars 15 o 6 pr Cotton Drawers—elastic 140 6 fine woollen Shirts—elastic 220 6 cotton Shirts 3 Pattern 3 Blue Stripe 140 2 pr Hickson tanned Gloves 8 o 1 pr Dundee Kid Do 40 1 black silk Stock 6 6 1 black silk Neck Cloth large 7 0 6 prs stout worsted stockings knit expressly 18 o 6 prs Socks Do 120 1 Silk Umbrella 100 1 tailors measuring Tape 3 pr stout winter shoes iron heeled double soled 1 pr Summer 1 pr Adelaide Boots 1 Blk oiled silk Cap 1 good Flageolet & Instructor containing Tunes 18 15 6 Novr. 3, 1838 My dear Alick Finding it more economical to get supplies from home than here I again trouble you with an order. I enclose a bill for £20 for the purchase of the above and request that you will hand the clothing order to some respectable 33i 15 5 6 1 16 0 8 0 16 0 10 0 Tailor & Clothier of your acquaintance and the Shoe order in like manner to a shoemaker. Tell them to give the best articles they can at the prices stated, & if they give satisfaction they will have my continued custom & recommendation. Let them send Invoices in which each article is precisely named so that in future orders no mistakes may be made—(I found this a great want in your Invoice). Pack all the things in a case lined with tin & forward it as soon as possible to London to come by first opportunity. I remain Dear Alick &c. Letters pr Columbia Nov 1838: 3 Mr A. Tolmie, 1 G. Anderson Esq, 1 Mrs R. Tulloh, 1 J. Tolmie Esq, 1 Mrs Capt. Fraser, 1 J. Webster Esq. 1 A. Colville, 1 Geo. Simpson, 1 R. Macgregor Esq M.D., 1 A. Fraser Esq, 1 John McLoughlin. Total— 13 My dear Sir I am directed by Messrs Work and Douglas (who started this morning for the Cowilitzk) to enquire whether you could receive into your family as boarders the two Miss Works, at your own terms to board &c as Mr Work will not grudge any expense in furthering so desirable an object as the mental improvement of his daughters. It is his wish that if you cannot conveniently accomodate both, you would take the elder one Jane and in this request I, who feel a peculiar interest in that young lady's education most cordially unite as I feel confident that she would derive lasting benefit from a residence in your amiable family where she would see the worship of God performed in spirit and in truth and be taught both by precept and example to consider the second great commandment "Thou shalt love thy neighbour as thyself" as rendering it obligatory on all who by the grace of God are instructed in the Truth to labour for the improvement & conversion of the poor benighted natives. Do my dear Sir take her into your family and you will oblige me more than I can express—as Mr Work will soon be returning to his Winter quarters please send your reply to this by the bearer, who is to make all the dispatch possible. Mr Douglas has left 2 dozen iron tinned Spoons for (you?) & desired me with his compliments to inform you that there is no Sheet Iron at present in the Store. With compliments to Mrs Leslie, and the ladies and gentlemen of the Mission I remain &c &c My dear Sir Jany 9* 1839 Some very serious charges having been advanced against the conduct of [ 332 ] our school master Miss Work's presence is required in order that the investigation thereupon may be completed. Mr Douglas will you therefore have the goodness to send her down along with Mr Perkins, or if that gentleman has already started, by the next safe opportunity. With compliments to Mrs Leslie in which Mr D unites, I remain Dear Sir What a promising field for Missionary enterprise Nusqually and Ft Langley present. Schools on the Manual Labor Principle at these places, would in the course of a few years greatly elevate the Physical and Moral Condition of the Natives, and they could be carried on at a moderate expense. It would be an undertaking worthy of the wealthy and powerful H.B. Co. to establish a few such institutions in the Columbia, and in the interests of the country, and those in it would be thereby greatly promoted. I remain My dear Sir &c &c I have lately become practically a member of the Total Abstinent Society altho' I have not yet signed any pledge. Books to be written for by the homeward bound vessel of 1834 Campbell's Pleasures of Hope—Martinets Therapeutics—Linley's Introduction to the N.O. of Plants Books to be ordered 1838 Deer 15—Selections from the Phrenological Journal 1 Vol: 12 mo Phrenological Journal No 39—Mem: Sisson The principles of Physiology applied to the preservation of Health and to the improvement of Physical and Mental education By A. Combe MD— latest edition half bd. 1839 Jany 2—Phrenological Journal from ist Jany 1839—Chamber's Educational Course from commencement in half bd volumes. The most complete Text book of Phrenology with plates &c Vocabularies of Indian Languages sent to Dr Scouler—Oct 21 —1839. I Haeeltzuk 2 Billichoola 3 Chimmesyan 4 Haida 5 Tinghaase 6 Kliketat 7 Shahaptan or Nezperces 8 Okanagan 9 Kawitchin 10 Noosclalom II Nusqually 12 Clao quatoch or Clayoquit 13 Chenook 14 Cathlascoh 15 Kalapooiah 16 Tamkallie 17 Umpqua Dr Souler: 2 boxes fm N.W.C, 3 skulls do, Pipes & Dishes & mask, Boots—similar to the Esquimaux for Male & Female, Cock of the Plains, Quail from California. 25 Chief Factors—25 Chief Traders 150 Clerks of different denominations from 1 to 2000 Labourers and Tradesmen—The Clerks and Labourers are salaried—The factors and Traders have 1/3 of the Profits divided amongst [ 333 ] them in the proportion of 2 portions to a Factor and one to a Trader—thus when a Trader has £350 a Factor has £700—The Capitalists in London retain 2/3 of the profits. A few years ago say 8 or 10 a Traders Income amounted to about £500 pr an: The profits have been steadily decreased since that period owing in part, to the depreciation in the value of Beaver, occasioned by improvements in the manufacture of Silk Hats; but chiefly, to diminished Returns; caused by the exterminating system of hunting pursued, which if not checked, will speedily eventuate in the destruction of the more valuable Fur-bearing animals.—a Traders Income has not of late exceeded £300—At this rate the arnot. divided amongst the working party would be £22,500 & that retained by the Capitalists 45,000. Total—67,500 March 10th, 1840: Wrote Mr. Kittson recommending tepid ablutions of sea water to right arm supposed to be recovering from inflammation caused by a sore on Knuckle— a calomel pill of 2 grs every fourth night followed by 1 oz Sulph: Mag: Next morning—light diet—for Ouvre a purgative weekly —a course of blistering to nape of neck—interscapular region and sacral region — Sponging every morning with sea water & thereafter brisk frictions with a rough towel— March 16: Geo Simpson Esq. Please accept my best thanks for the kind interest you have taken in procuring me leave of absence, Messrs McLoughlin and Douglas having acceded to my wish of proceeding by Express 1841 instead of by the vessel of 1840—I anticipate much both of pleasure and profit from journeying across such an extensive track of country as the American continent is in the latitudes— I am glad to learn that the seeds I had the pleasure of sending you arrived in good order. Seeds however carefully packed are often injured by the vicissitudes of temperature to which they are exposed on the passage to England by sea. To avoid this risk I now send a few packets by the overland route. One of these is to your address, and contains some seeds of the gigantic Umpqua Pine which is as yet I believe in possession of but few in Britain. I have ascertained the soundness of the Pine Seeds by sowing a (few) in the garden here. Hoping ere long to have the gratification of personally thanking you for your uniform kindness I have the honor to remain Dear Sir Your obed humble St. 334. March 20. Informed A.T., A.C.A., Dr Hooker, A F— Letters: Geo Simpson Esq, A Fraser, Sir W. J. Hooker, A Tolmie, P. S. Ogden, A. C. Anderson March 3; Wm. Mackay, D. Finlayson, J. Tolmie, A. McDonald, D Manson, W C Pambrun, M. Whitman London Feby 19-1842 My dear Aunt While I am able, and until you find you can dispense with it—should fortune ever so smile upon you—it is my intention to allow you £30 pr annum, out of which you will pay the Fen Duty for the Campbelton Cottage and keep the Cottage in repair—Consider the £5 sent the other day as the first Instalmt. I shall leave directions with Mr. Smith to pay in future by quarterly Instalmts. but the remaining £25 for the curr year is at your disposal now, and it is for you to say, whether you wish it paid to the Twinings, or part paid to them and part reserved for your trip to Edinr. shd you decide on going there—Write explicitly on this head for I shall not call on the Twinings until I have your answer—I am surprised you have not remitted them the £12 the paymaster of the Royals holds of your's—It would have convinced them of your desire to pay had you sent ever so little. I think with the £30 you can live pretty comfortably in Campb. Cot. assisted by the profits of the farm, and allow a good part of Mr. F's salary to the payt. of the Principal & Interest of his liabilities to his kind friends Shaw & Tolmie. 29th March J. McLoughlin—nearly the same as to JD & DF. The extreme and long continued depression of trade in Glasgow has induced my br: who is in bus: there to think of emigr: & the favorable accounts he received of the Col: from Mr. Macleod and myself coupled with a desire to be near me, have directed his views to that quarter—The Coy offer a passage for himself & wife on reasonable terms either ini842ori843 and Mr. Col- ville informed me that if he went out in 1842 he would probably get employment from the P.S.A. If no opening presented his alternative would be sheep-farming or agriculture but as his capital will be small, only £350 or £400 and as my purse will be light on returning—I would much prefer his engaging with the Coy for a few years—as a storekeeper I can conscientiously recommend him on the score of experience, integrity and steadiness—he is 28 years of age and has been 8 years in business on his own account, and his better half is a plain sensible person, conversant with rural affairs and one who wd. make light of the temporary discomforts of a settlers life—as I look forward to ultimately settling in the Columbia [ 335 I J myself, it is natural for me to wish to have my only brother there, and impelled by this feeling I make bold to request that you wd. inform their Honors in 1842 whether his services wd. be required, or not, so that as he cannot leave before 1843—he may know exactly what to look forward to. 33^ I Return to Britain 1841 EDITOR'S NOTE: Without preliminary entries to describe his journey over the fur trade route of the Columbia River and the Athabaska to the plains, Dr. Tolmie describes his canoe journey eastward on his furlough journey home. Tuesday, May 25, 1841: Sunrise—Saskatchewan River below entrance of Battle River. Wish I could have enjoyed more of Mr Harriot's company, as I would have gained from him much information regarding the wild tribes that roam the Prairies—He says the Circees tho' intermarried with the Blackfeet & Blood Indians, speak a dialect of the Chipewyan—a language that has no affinity perceptible to the traders with that of the Blackfeet. A tradition exists among the Circees that they come originally from the Northwards having been separated from the rest of their tribe by a strong wind, whilst they were travelling together in canoes in a large lake—Lake Winnipeg, Mr H. supposes; a quarter not frequented by the Chipewyans of the present day. The Sicanies of the Rocky Mountains in the parallels of New Caledonia and the Kayuse or Wailat near Walla Walla are additional instances of small tribes speaking a language different from that of their neighbours. The Kayuse are losing their proper language and adopting that of the Shahaptani or Nezperces, their immediate neighbours. Conversed with Mr McDougall who has traded with both tribes on the similarity between the Chipewyan and Carrier. He stated that the resemblance was so great that a trader who had been for sometime dealing with one Nation had little difficulty in understanding the other—also that the Carrier elders of tribes have a tradition that their ancestors came from the Eastward. He referred to P.W. Dease Esq. whom I may see at Red River for further information, after a ten years from either nation he could remember only the following words— Chipewyan Carrier Chipewyan Carrier 1 Yaethly do 4 Tinghi do 2 Nanhka do 5 Sussinlai S Roontai 3 Tai do 6 Yalkitai do (double 3) [337] 8 Yalkitinghi (double four) 9 Unblahooleh 10 Onevzna Fire—Koon Koon Water Too Too Antoine August reached Rocky Mt Ho. the 27 April—Mr Rowand started for Red River on the 10th May, leaving orders at Edmonton, Pitt and Carlton that everything possible should be done to expedite the progress of the Columbia Express towards Red River—Such being the case Mr Harriott dispatched us on Friday morning the 21st in a light boat with the guide & 6 of the best of our men, including James Tod. Stopped for half an hour at Ft. Pitt on Sunday—Are now (Tuesday) scudding before an aft wind, and hope to arrive either tonight or early tomorrow at Carlton, when horses being in readiness we will start immediately for Red River, which overland journey will occupy 15 to 20 days. The scenery along the Saskatchewan is beautiful—Smooth grassy gently sloping hills dotted with clumps, rows & scattering trees of Aspen, Birch and alder now in full foliage, the bright green hue of which is most pleasing to the eye. In several places at meal times ascended the hills which are from 1 to 200 feet perpedr. ht. & generally had an extensive view of level prairie wooded as the hills on both sides of the River—granite boulders numerous—Some places thickly spotted with buffafo dung but these animals have now proceeded up stream—and are probably grazing in the prairies at the foot of the Rocky mountains—at Edmonton and Ft Pitt they have some Buffalo calves of last season and feed them on hay. Those at Ft Pitt are in the best condition of the two, and are to be sent to England. Saturday, May 29th, '41: En route from Carlton to Ft. Pelly near Salt Lake. Reached Carlton on Tuesday at 10 P.M.—Informed by Mr. Small the clerk in charge that Mr. Rowand had set out on the 21st for Red River. Started on Wednesday at 11 A.M .Mr. A., W. F. T., Joe the guide, James Tod and Arthur Pruden son of Ex C.F.Ps. also our Indian guide. Have now been travelling 3 days and a half through Plains abounding in small lakes tolerably with wildfowl and in groves of Aspen Poplar with an undergrowth of Service Bush Choke cherry, Briar & willow, a most beautiful country. In some places the lakes were very numerous and being generally bordered by willows & bulrushes and in consequence easily approachable, their feathered tenants paid tribute to our victualling officer on several occasions. Have eaten Swan, Crane, Goose & Duck since starting. 338: Yesterday crossed much dry Prairies, the soil of which was impregnated with saline bad substances incrustating the surface in spots—Nitrate of Potash & sulphr. or Muriate Magnes: I should say from tasting were the principal salts. Salt Lakes bordered by a line of white incrustation were frequently met with—on this dry country antelope abounded, they approached us often seemingly impelled by curiosity, but kept sufficiently distant to escape the many balls aimed at them. This morning came suddenly on a couple of Moose Deer. Pruden & I ran ahead and fired at them trotting thro' a narrow glade, but missed. The Indian snapped thrice at them before they ran off. Monday, 10 A.M. 3 ist May, 1841: On Saturday after travelling during the afternoon along a salt lake on the borders of which saw three buffalo bulls—we encamped in a beautiful woodland on the banks of a grassy rivulet—where I had a refreshing ablution. Yesterday travelled along the same lake till breakfast thro' a flat uninteresting & rather sterile prairie. Saw two bulls nearer than those seen yesterday. One of them was very large & fierce looking but we could not waste a moment in attempting to approach him. After breakfast passed a lately abandoned Sauteux camp. Appended to one of the lodge poles was a thigh of buffalo fresh enough—and to another—the bones of a dog made into a parcel & enveloped in long grass. The Guide was soon after perplexed & zigzaged thro' belts of Poplar & Prairions for at least two hours—at length the old man sat down on a grassy hillock to have a smoke and having reflected for a few minutes, mounted again & struck off in a direction diametrically opposite to that we had last been pursuing. Following this we encamped in sight of Pike Lake, a known point, before we unsaddled, saw a herd of Buffalo disappearing in the distance over a small hillock. Encamped in the midst of small lakes, but on the bank of a burn that sluggishly meandered thro' the plain—Arthur & Joe followed the Buffalo, but did not overtake. This morning saw a herd of 15 or 20 cows with their calves grazing on a burnt hillock a quarter of a mile ahead. Drew the charges of shot & replaced them with ball—A. Joe & I endeavoured to approach while Allan, J. Tod & the Indian remained with the horses ready to fire if the Buffalo took their direction. We stole cautiously on occasionally getting a glimpse of the herd, still quiet. Suddenly we felt a light breeze & on throwing a handful of earth in the air saw that it took the direction of the Buf. Cattle—a minute after and the herd passed in view trotting briskly away accompanied by their little calves & whisking their tails about, perhaps in contempt of us. Quoi que c'est ca. Arthur is no despicable chasseur. The Buffalo cow seems to be of the same size & somewhat of the same form as the Highland cow. [339] Mir Thursday, June 3: On Sunday travelled thro' a plain country abounding in lakes. On Monday & Tuesday thro' swampy Poplar Woods interrupted occasionally by dry prairions & grassy slopes bordered by swamps. On Tuesday afternoon reached Ft. Pelly the station of Dr. Todd now absent at Red River. We found it in charge of a queer old original Peter Sinclair a half breed, who spoke a curious sort of Orkney English with great volubility. On approaching saw the garrison, which consisted of 3 men & some women & children standing in the gate way & conspicuous above all was the tall gaunt figure of Peter habited in a large duffle capot, pipe in mouth posted at their head—edge on. Mr. Todd started for Red River on the 27th May, and Mr. Rowand, who left us 2 horses, on the 29th. Ft. Pelly seems as capacious as Carlton, or Assiniboine. Its Indians are Sauteux and Crees. Were accompanied for some hours on Tuesday by 4 Sautex men, some women and children, the men who might readily be mistaken for Kliketats or Wallawallas stepped along chatting with our guide and left the care of the loaded horses entirely to the women. If a single instance be sufficient, these Indians must be supposed more neglectful of their women than the tribes west of the mountains. Saturday, June 5: Have been informed that the Indian women east perform more drudgery of all descriptions than those west of the mountains. On leaving Ft. Pelly travelled along the valley of the Assiniboine River for nearly the first time have been crossing prairies abounding in lakes, willow bushes & Poplars—& vallies watered by small streams. Got the Paper- Trunks across by enveloping them in apichimon blankets and oil cloths, lashing the whole firmly together & hauling the boat-like bundle across while 2 men swam along with it supporting its edges—I took Allen's watch inside my hat & my own shirt folded outside. After breakfast had rain & were busy in lastnights encampment drying things, cleaning firearms and so forth. Dream't lastnight of Tander Pattison my old companion now some years dead. This morning in riding along thought & derived much pleasure from the reverie of meeting James Pattison when I get home, of talking with him about "the days of other years" and if our tastes still accord of visiting along with him Schools, Botanic Gardens &c &c. Our horses are in miserable plight. Of those brought from Carlton, mine alone has a sound back & he has escaped by being saddled invariably by his rider. Allans horse which was saddled for some stages by the men is in a shocking state. We will take at least a day longer than Mr. Rowand between Ft. Pelly and Red River. Have seen only 2 buffalo sculls and no dung since starting from Ft P. Friday, June 11: Fort Garry—Red River. Crossed another river requiring swimming. On Wednesday morning at White Mud Creek met a party of Red River Settlers, so far on their migration to the Columbia. Breakfasted [340] with one of them, Charles Mackay a highland halfbreed, and were hospitably regaled with cold ham, Veal steaks, bread, butter & tea with milk fresh from the cow. Found this an agreeable change from Pemmican. The party consisted of 23 families, or no or 120 souls, they were well supplied with horses & two or three carts pr family also some Oxen & milch cows (3). I regretted their having so few cattle as their breed is superior to that of the Walamet, & for one of their cows, they might have had two or three of the Californian breed. They were of course inquisitive about the Columbia & we satisfied them on most points—their women & children looked cleanly & all either spoke french or English. Judging from what I saw they will be quite an acquisition to the Walamet for there they must inevitably go, altho' their agreement or contract with the Coy states the Cowlitz to be their destination. On the evening of Wednesday encamped along with some people bound from R.R. for Fort Ellice, & entertained at our homely supper Mr. James Sinclair, a half-breed, R.R. farmer, hastening to overtake the Columbia party of which he had the command. Yesterday after an early breakfast on the banks of the Assiniboine River got to Mr. Belcour's a Catholic Priest who has about 30 Sauteux families settled around him. The good man received us kindly & busied himself in getting us fresh horses, with which we proceeded at a quicker pace—he says the Indians who have commenced tilling the ground & given up war, are increasing rather than dwindling away—their houses tho' of the civilized shape looked miserable hovels from without. Our next stage of 10 miles brought us to Mr. Cuthbert Grant's mansion—he met us outside, invited us to dinner, and there after supplied us with horse and gig, himself accompanying on horseback. After a drive of eighteen miles along an extensive & level prairie, thinly settled on the banks of the Assiniboine, which passes through it, we reached Ft. Garry situated at the junction of the Assiniboine with Red River. Were met on entering first by Mr. Tod (Surgeon) Ft. Pelly and next by Mr. Finlayson, who conducted us into the Dining Hall, and while Tea was preparing, & during that meal, enquired about every one in the Columbia. Afterwards he led us to our quarters in the upper room of the Trading Store, a capacious apartment furnished with folding sofa beds. In passing from the hall to the Store, met & were introduced to the Governor now Sir George Simpson Knight, and Lords Mulgrave and Caledon two young noblemen who have come up to hunt buffalo. Mr. Allan soon after delivered the despatches and letters, I received from England: one from Scoular, one from Uncle A. & one from Alick merely stating that on the 27th Oct: he would become a married man. Sunday morning: Did little [341] pSBS^ on Friday—on Sat: morning had an interview with the Governor Sir George Simpson—to my wish of going home by Canada he said that he would let me know in a day or two whether I could go by the Express Canoe to start in a week hence, or not—to returning by Cape Horn he offered no objection—before leaving him he enquired whether I had anything particular to say to him, to which I replied in the negative. After breakfast visited Mr. Macallums Academy, where saw Mr. Archd. McDonald's sons Angus and Archy—poor Angus is affected with the Columbia Leprosy, and will no doubt fall a martyr to it—saw also Angus McDonell son of C. F. McDonell—this boy excels in drawing and has Form largely developed—James Simpson whom I promised George to see is a handsome gentle looking boy taller tho' younger than George, the poor little fellow is subject to Asthma & pants painfully on making any extra exertion— Alexr. Black, son of the late S. Black C. F. told me he would prefer Vancouver to R.R.—Revd. Mr Evans Wesleyan Methodist Missionary accompanied by Miss Jane Ross paid a visit. Mr Evans, Macallum & I conversed on Indian Languages & on the peopling of this continent. Mr Evans showed extensive knowledge on these subjects. Wine being presented I took up a glass, put it to my lips, but on being pressed to drink it off declined, and avowed my cold-water principles. Mr. Evans then said, If I could find i o in the country like you I would also abstain, on which Macallum and he commenced arguing on the Temperance Question. Edinburgh, December i: Have now been six weeks in the civilized world & this is the commencement of journalizing. Dined yesterday in Glasgow with James Pattison at his fathers in Blythswood Square. Saw Tander's portrait taken at the age of 17—Poor fellow he must have been an amiable character to have acquired such general esteem in his regiment. Mr. P. showed me a copy of Colonel Pattison's letter giving the detail of Alexr's short tho' fatal illness—and a most affecting epistle it was. A. met his end calmly composedly and at peace (in his own mind, with God and Man—Requiescat in pace. He was my companion in many a scene of boyish adventure and mischief) and often while musing and adventure building by the fireside during my first years in the far West did I look forward to our meeting at some future time once more in Glasgow, and talking over our youthful exploits—and after-life adventures. Tander died at Nassau New Providence on the 28th Sept 1834 of yellow fever—& his Uncle Colonel Alexr. Pattison only survived him 3 months. May my next meeting with the companion of my youth be "amongst the just made perfect". The evening was agreeably spent in chatting on the Corn Laws—Free Trade &c. [342] Mr. Pattison differs from the rest of the family, in being a Conservative—Miss Pattison and I had a bye-chat on Temperance—Sir W. Scott's publications, Dickens—and to her and several others I answered innumerable questions on the Far West. Must write James at New York on returning to Glasgow— and mention my political opinions, recommend Phrenology and the doctrine of the Natural Laws, inviting at the same time his sentiments fully and unreservedly on the same topics. On Monday had an interesting conversation with Bryson who is a liberal minded Catholic. He has been a Teetotaler for 2 years & aided in inducing 30,000 of his Catholic countrymen to adopt the pledge. Since then the committals at the Police office have diminished, and the average collections at the Roman Catholic Chapel risen from £10 to £26 on a Sunday—Father Matthew is expected in Glasgow in 1842. October 10—1842: On board the H. B. Barque Columbia Atlantic Ocean N Lat: 24.10— W Long: 20.45. On reflecting on my mental growth and progression I have at different times regretted not having kept a record of the thoughts suggested by reading and meditation. Being now occupied with the System of Nature in the Shepherd a penny periodical published in 1834, 35 & 37—and advocating Universalism, that is, the doctrine that God is the author of all things good and bad, that all Religions Mahommedan, Hindoo &c and all Christian Sects have their purpose to fulfil in the great plan of Providence and that all casting away superstition, exclusiveness and Individualism are to merge into the Universal Church whose foundations will be laid in Peace and Universal Brotherhood—Being occupied with this valuable work I shall keep my Journal at hand and set down from time to time such thoughts as occur. My friend F. well knew my mental wants when he recommended me to purchase the Shepherd. I trust that all the advocates of Cooperation may be fully imbued with its spirit—for it affords a balm and consolation to the mind not to be obtained from any form of old Religion & is superior even to any deistical view for it recognizes a providential plan in and extracts good from every thing. It represents cold dead Materialism or Atheism as per se the most absurd & biggoted of all, and yet candidly allows that good and well meaning men are professors of each and all these beliefs or negations of beliefs—an admission not to be found in many of the effusions of Orthodox writers on Infidelity—Slow and sure is a true saying—That there is an intellectual and moral revolution taking place in England now must be evident to every one who observes the workings and upheavings of Society. The movement is at the base of the pyramid, consequently it is the more general. So long as the strife between the conflicting parties is carried on by the sword of the [ 343 ] Spirit, or the Press, instead of the sword of the flesh or physical force so long will Progress be the result. To F. I am now perusing the Shepherd's articles on the System of Nature, and take a deep interest in his Universal views. Some of his ideas had occurred to myself and I was pleased to recognize them worked into a system. I think there is a movement in the same direction in France for a writer in the Revue Independante of Paris (Pierre Leroux)—powerfully upholds the progressiveness of Religion—I should think Mr Smith's writings must continue to have a quickening and uniting influence on the Socialist body. I hope soon to see men with the untiring energy and zeal of Peter and Paul, Wesley and Whitfield arising to preach the gospel of Universalism and Cooperation to the tens of thousands of longing hearts throughout Britain and America who are desiring better things than the Christianity of Sects can afford. Since becoming acquainted with the movements of the Social body last spring I regretted to find that they had so completely dissevered themselves from the past as to despise the powerful point d'appui which a more frequent recognition of Christ as a great moral reformer, in their discussions and writings would have afforded. I conversed on the subject several times at Branch A S. Smith seems to me to put everything in its proper place. What a wonderful power he displays in discovering analogy—I feel disposed to consider some of them as far fetched, but may alter my opinion when further advanced in the Science. I should expect to find a large Development of the Organ of Comparison in his head. Until 13 (years of age) I was educated in strict Presbyterianism. At that age I went to reside with my father who after several years of Widowhood had married a second time. What his notions were I know not—he inculcated strict morality, and sent my brother and myself regularly to church, but never went himself. Early impressions continued their influence on my mind and I had ebbs and flows of devotional feeling until at the age of 20 I entered the service of the Hudson's Bay Coy as Surgeon. In laying in books at that period, Paleys Evidences, Dwights Theology and Butler—and Young's Night Thoughts were among the number selected. During 1833 and part of 34 my first year in the extreme Far West —I read most of Dwight—also the Night Thoughts with much benefit for they withdrew my mind from exclusive attention to every day concerns. In 1836 I got medical charge at Ft. Vancouver on the Columbia River, where I occasionally came in contact with Methodist and Presbyterian missionaries who had come from the New England States shortly before with the design of converting the Natives. Having from the first taken a warm [ 344] interest in the improvement of the Red Man I warmly cooperated with the missionaries, and altho I never could agree with them as to the manner of proceeding yet I felt that I would be much more beneficially & agreeably employed if wholly devoted to the same object, than I was in the service of the Coy. In 1837 I applied for leave of absence intending on reaching England to consider the subject fully and then to decide either on returning as an employee of the Company or going as a Missionary to whatever quarter of the World might be deemed eligible—however I was not at liberty to quit my post at Vancouver until a successor arrived in 1841—and during the four years intervening a considerable revolution took place in my ideas. I saw that Missionary labor amongst the Indians was impracticable and fruitless in good results either to the teachers, or taught—Occasional discussions with Methodists, Presbyterians and Roman Catholics (for by this time the latter had entered the field) had been enlarging my views and in '38 as I formerly stated—Combe's Constitution of Man effected quite a change in my ways of thinking. I then thought if I did become a Missionary it would be among the poor of some of the large cities at home. I reached London in Oct: 1841 as nearly as I can divine an Unitarian of the school of Channing, and before going to Scotland in Novr. I heard Fox once or twice. On returning to the Metropolis in January I took up my abode for a few days at the Temp: Hotel, Aldersgate Street, and meeting men of all opinions there I used to drop in occasionally after taking lodgings. There were James the Deist, Baker Church of Englandist, Bunting Socialist and probably atheist, Stirling Pantheist, Fanering nothingurian, besides hosts of Anticornlaw Orthodox men, Quakers, Scotch Presbyterians, and others. The result was that I adopted Strauss & Hennell's views of Christianity, and towards Spring entered into an examination of the Social System of Robert Owen. After some weeks reading and reflexion the conclusion was forced upon me that nothing short of enlightened Cooperation, based on the principle that we best secure our own happiness by promoting that of others, will prove an effectual preventative of the ills now rending asunder society. The five points of the Charter are in operation in America; and yet Brother Jonathon, altho' better provided as respects the physical is equally in a state of destitution as regards the intellectual, and moral the higher wants of Mans Nature. Despite of his Freeborn Americanism—Universal Suffrage—vote by ballot and all the rest—he cannot be other than the sly moneygetting suicide-committing dyspeptic, he is made by the spirit of ignorant selfishness or Competition which in the Western Republics of the new as well as the Eastern Monarchies of the old world, is now, whatever [345] it may have been (and doubtless it has served a useful purpose in byegone days) the curse and bane of Society. I am delighted to think that in America as well as in England and France there are many minds longing for the commencement of Universal Peace and Brotherhood aye and setting well digested measures on foot too to recommend by example the new state of Society. Have been luxuriating in the beauties of Shelley this forenoon (29th Oct) and shall now take up Elliotson. [346 Trip to Cape Verde Islands 1842 October 22, 1842: On Sunday the 16th we passed St. Antonio one of the Cape Verd Islands and were visited by 3 naked Mulattoes in a rough clumsy looking fishing boat with oars to match. They brought off about a dozen small fish and for these the spokesman asked a pair of trousers. The Captain paid him for the fish in Tobo; Fish Hooks and Biscuit and gave him an old pair of trousers to boot. The black fellow was then so much delighted that he cut a good many Jim Crow evolutions and said the English were gentlemen. He and his companions were stout i.e. muscular men with wollyish heads mullatoish features and rather high calves. They spoke the Portuguese language. They said that Pigs, Goats, Poultry & fruit were obtainable at St. Antonio, the principal town which was situated in the mountains. The island consists on its western aspect of a chain of precipitous serrated mountains with nearly bare sides. We could only perceive with the glass one verdant spot which was a circumscribed shelf or platform near the base of the mts, & was occupied by a cottage and garden. On Tuesday the 18 th we landed at Brava in a small rocky bay at the base of a rugged mountain gorge watered by a tiny streamlet. We were welcomed by a crowd of fellows dressed in white cotton or canvas trousers and check-shirts mostly shoeless and wearing old straw or palmetto hats of American manufacture. They told us (for several spoke English), that we could only obtain supplies of provisions, after applying to the Govr. for permission to trade. The Interpreter Augustino Perez then appeared, and accompanied us on foot to the town while Humphreys and I agreed to ride and tye on a small Poney—as a Jackass promised me could not be caught. Our road through or up the gorge lay along the rugged water course and was a steep ascent—after going about Vz a mile, a man overtook me with the jackass accoutred with a huge clumsy saddle, and a hair halter round its neck. I mounted and made wonderful progress among the rocks and large stones blocking up the bed of the stream. Bethought me of all I had read and heard of the surefootedness of asses and mules and concluded that the feats of the Donkey I bestrode left little room for exaggeration. He clambered up some very difficult places over smooth round wet stones [347] msr and the holes or gaps between these without once faltering and the Captain had frequently to dismount while I kept the saddle—at one spot it was necessary for him to leap the stream as it burrowed its way between steep banks and I thought of getting off, but Augustine applying his cudgel to the rump of Borrico said "Now ride well, Yakcass, never fall down" and taking a firm seat we cleared the burn nicely. The animal with all his good qualities maintained the character of his kind for obstinacy and at times stood still despite the most moving appeals of heel and cudgel. About a mile up— the road emerged from the water course and from thence until we reached the first summit passed alternately over little patches covered with soil and among loose round stones where we were obliged occasionally to dismount. On every spot covered with soil, cottages of stone roughly hewn and roofed with shingle (from the U.S.) were met with, each having a maize garden adjoining it. From these, men, women and children generally sallied to gaze at the strangers and enquire at Augustine the purport of our visit. On getting to the top the first summit, we found the cottages more numerous & the gardens apparently more productive. Between the western or first summit there was a gently sloping alpine valley extending to the second or eastern one and terminating to the North right under our feet as it were in a steep precipitous pass or gorge similar to the one we had ascended and exposing to our view the bright blue sunlit waters of Old Ocean dashing in white foam against the iron bound shore at its base. Up this pass a most refreshing breeze was rushing and met us as soon as we fully opened out the view. Cottages could be discerned on the little platforms and prominences down the pass, which resembled closely, in as far as observable the one we had just threaded, ascended the second summit and then commenced a gradual descent through a rather more level country which at length led us to the town situated on a pretty level slope on the eastern side of the island. The town might have consisted of ioo or 150 houses covering irregularly an extent of two or 3 miles in circumference as gardens were attached to each. We were conducted by Augustino to the Gobernadors whom we found at table in his shirt sleeves in conversation with a rather dandified moustachiod and bearded young man who proved to be the Commandante. The Govr. who was a fine looking middle aged man took the name of the Ship and Captain; and we then went to the Commandante's who after settling business, put some aquardiente on the Table which I tasted & found palatable enough. On leaving the Commandante's we passed three or four persons who seemed to be the gentry of the place, and as we progressed slowly they overtook us. One gave us an invitation to dinner and another [348] asked me to visit a girl ill of fever which I did and then rejoined the Captain at the house of our entertainer Don Juan de Calderon. The Don was an under sized man with rather a sinister or Jewish look & middling cranial development and an ugly scar across his left cheek. The dinner provided, consisted of some very nice rolls, & tolerably good butter, pork sausages a blood pudding and an omelette; to all which I did justice, and also tasted some port wine put on the table. I thought our host meanwhile a good sort of fellow, but was more taken with the son a handsome ingenuous looking boy of 15 or 16 whom I addressed in Spanish and who replied in Portuguese. He told me he was desirous of learning Navigation and of becoming a sailor. Mine host in broken English offered us a bed, and said that he was in the habit of showing hospitality to Ship Captains—from whom he got Hams and other good things. I thought this rather a plain intimation of his views but learnt afterwards that he had promised to exchange stock with the Captain for these things. After dinner we thanked our host and mounting returned to the beach without meeting any adventure. Donkey being fatigued I walked the greater part of the way. Young Juan Calderon overtook us mounted on a nice little bay poney, and said that his father was to send the Stock in the course of the evening, but the Interpreter whispered to me that he did not expect any would be sent as the Senior Calderon was too much of a Jew, and was only trying what he could get for nothing. Some of the cottages in the town were whitewashed, and looked tolerably well, but an appearance of poverty pervaded all from the Governors downwards. From the town we had a good view of the neighbouring island of Fuego with a village or town situated nearly opposite Brava-town and distant about 15 miles. In ascending, stopped to observe about a dozen women, girls and negroes, washing, tramping and beating clothes within a stone cistern or dam formed along the course of the creek or burn—in the evening traded some green oranges, Maize and a cock, at rather a high rate—100 oranges at a dollar 4/—a bushel of green Maize (cobs) a dollar, the cock 1/6-. Waited till about 2 o'clock in expectation of Caldero's stock, and then went on board, promising to return next morning. Juan wrote or pretended to write his father that the Captain required stock, and not money in exchange for the Ham &c. Came on shore on Wed. the 19th and remained trading till about 1 P.M. when we returned on board and continued our course rejoicing that we had had for even a few hours a run on Terra firma. We paid for the Donkey & Poney on the 18th 10/-, to the Interpreter for acting as Guide and assisting in Trade 12/6, and expended in purchasing oranges, melons, cucumbers, [349] green maize, a couple of small Pigs and a few fowls (4 ) about 50 shillings. I met an English sailor near the Cistern and as he had an ugly suppurating Carbuncle on the right shoulder blade and represented himself as being in woeful plight I gave him 5/-. Everything seemed dear at Brava, a shilling each being refused for half grown chickens. The population was estimated by the Commandante at 300, the greater number of whom, are I think Creoles or Mulattoes. The men are in general tall, thin, and meagre-looking, the women more plump, but very dark complexioned, and inveterate smokers. Both sexes were dressed in garments of the ordinary make of blue, white or checked cotton. Several of the men having been on whaling voyages into the Pacific spoke tolerably good English and some had a few words of the Sandwich Island language. Many of the women were comely and agreeable looking, their large turbans of white cotton scrupulously clean being extremely becoming. There are three or four Catholic priests on the Island. Quarrels or broils are of rare occurrence—and none of the men openly displayed any lethal weapons altho' as an aid in climbing the rugged mountain paths they were mostly furnished with stout shillelahs. The dark sons of Afric are held in bondage by many of the more wealthy inhabitants—24 pr. cent Duty is charged on English Goods bartered for Stock or sold—only 16 pr ct. for American; as the Bravaians were relieved from famine a few years ago by timely supplies of food from the U.S. There is an American Consul at Bravatown. Before closing I may mention that Calderons Ham speculation ended in smoke. While going on with the trade I observed Juan purchasing a half dozen unfledged chickens, which I had refused as being too small. When the general trade was over, he presented these, and two bunches unripe bananas, as the stock sent by his father. Of course for these he could not expect much. We had him to dine with us, in the boat, and he made a hearty meal on Cheese, Ham &c &c. and thus ended the negociation. Two young Americans from New Bedford who on their first trip to sea had deserted from a Whaler at Brava a few weeks before, were amongst our visitors the second day, and seemed anxious to bid adieu to the poor little island as soon as might be. They had a good dinner from us and I gave one of them an old Picture of London of 1832 which may while away a wearisome hour. The island of Brava appears, as far as I observed, to consist of stratified rock. Saw in several points layers of Breccia very much twisted. Boulders of the same materials occurred frequently in the watercourse & stony parts of the road. Did not observe a single fern or myrtle on the island. The most common tree or shrub was one about 10 or 15 feet high, broad & [350] scollop leaved & resembling the Ricinus Communis. The interpreter informed me that the natives obtained Oil from its fruit. In the Gardens were the Banana and Orange trees, and at the roadside in some places the White and blue Convolvuli so common at the Sandwich Islands. Monkeys are said to be numerous and destructive to the maize plantations. Saw several frigate birds hovering in the mountain gorge near the beach. In the mountain valley fired at a White Eagle with brown tipped wings rather smaller than the Falco Lencocephalus. At St. Antonio, and Brava likewise—purchased some rock cod weighing about 2 lbs each of a bright Vermillion color & mottled with rich blue spots the size of a pea. They were white fleshed, firm and of excellent flavor. On the 24th spoke a french barque, the Paul Emile of Bourdeaux from Bourbon, bound for Marseilles. The Captain and I went on board and found the Master a tall stately old gentleman. He had heard of the Due d'Orlean's death, at St. Helena, which he had left on the 2nd. On the 9th Septr. several shipwrecks had taken place at the Cape of Good Hope. October 29: A large Homeward Bounder is just passing, about 7 miles distant. Yesterday (Sunday) being rough we had no lecture read. After dinner, the conversation turning on Napoleon I remarked that it would have redounded more to his fame as a military hero, had he headed the last charge at Waterloo and died on the field. This was stoutly denied by the Captain and Mr Stewart the Chief Mate, who maintained that he acted more wisely in running away and Stuart quoted Hudibras. In the heat of argument for I am sorry to say there was heat on both sides I maintained that had he even mustered such as would have followed him and sought death in the enemy's ranks after all was lost, it wd. have been better for his military fame. The Captain spoke of the absurdity of his throwing away his life and Stuart of the Chances of retrieving his fallen fortunes. To the Captain I replied by pointing out the miseries and mortifications he endured from the date of Waterloo, till his demise at St. Helena and also that misfortune and ill health had brought into prominent view petty defects and blemishes which detract from his character both as a Soldier and a man. To Mr Stuart I answered that as he really did not regain his lost empire in the hearts of the French it was no use advancing suppositions. To better qualify myself for forming a judgement, I read in the afternoon his life from Waterloo downwards and tho' pained at his misfortunes, and at his displaying so little true greatness, or even fortitude, while at St Helena, without saying anything of his heading the Guards in their last charge, or seeking a voluntary death in the enemy's ranks I do opine that had his [351] career ended at Waterloo, he would have been considered a greater hero and a greater man. November 16: On the ioth had an opportunity of forwarding letters to England by the Brig Thunder from Sincapore. Wrote Aunt Tulloh, Uncle James—Mr Smith and Alick. Requested Alick to write Mr. Roberts Junr. to send me the Phrenol: Journal from October 1842 and Legends and Miracles, a work by the Author of the Shepherd purporting to give a faithful account of all events of that nature not evidently impostures. Also requested him to purchase a copy of Hullah, and send it to the Campbelton Teetot: Association and one of Infant Education for Robert Forsyth—Schoolmaster Campbelton. Desired Uncle J. to send my letter to Alick Macpherson, and proposed to Aunt T. that she might, if so disposed, drop a note to Mr Fleming, mentioning that she had heard from me. Have within the last few days been reading different parts of Scott's Life of Napoleon. Am most interested in the detail of causes leading to the French Revolution, its progress, and results. England is now, in many respects in a state similar to that of France in 1785. The Government is more conciliatory perhaps but the distress of the Operatives is probably greater, but, fortunately for the peace of society, and the attainment of real improvement so is their intelligence, and in consequence their moral influence in the community. November 24: Have had the wind aft for some days and the ship has rolled so that writing has been out of the question. Today the sea is smooth and the wind abeam. On the 22nd looked over some pencil notes kept during my visit to Paris and resolved to copy them into the journal as soon as the weather permitted. I now begin and shall add whatever the jottings already made recall to mind. [The following portion of the diary, here entitled 'Paris Interlude' was written by Dr. Tolmie while returning to the Pacific Northwest via the Hudson's Bay barque 'Columbia' enroute to Fort Vancouver. It recounts his visit to Paris in the spring and summer of that year.] [352] Paris Interlude 1842 May 6, 1842: On board the Sir Wm Wallace bound for Boulogne. London Bridge Quay—8 A.M. Porters bustling and staggering under their loads—Passengers shouting as they are seeing after luggage—Newsmongers offering their wares for sale—"Lastnight Sun—This morning Chronicle— Chamber's Journal". Some of the passengers have at once seated themselves on the quarter deck and are deeply immersed in the Parliamentary or Variety Columns of the Papers—Above the parapet of the bridge appears a row of faces intently watching the proceedings on the quay & steamers below—Start —pass the Custom House, a noble building but begrimed with smoke—River swarming with Sheat, Coal & Hay lighters from different ports on the Essex and Kent shores. Women and children seen on board several of the lighters where they seem quite at home. A Hull Steamer in our wake with a detachment of the 16th Foot on board. Pass the Tower—wherries on every side shooting along. The passengers are an elderly lady with lap dog and a pretty red haired Blonde, her companion, another lady, a nice looking Brunette—a party of lighthearted joyous young Irishmen, a rather exquisitish man of about 30 in a scotch bonnet. Two or three grave and reverend seniors—on the forecastle a tall portly foreigner in a blue cloak, lined with red, fierce looking and more bearded than the Pard—Small craft sailing up and down in great numbers. Deptford—Numbers of small craft—Ships of all denominations anchored on the southern side of the Stream—Very nearly ran foul of a Schooner under sail—Dreadnought— Greenwich, the finest piece of architecture on the Thames—City Canal passes from London docks to Blackwall—Isle of Dogs lying between it and the Thames; Woolwich—Convict Ship—Two govt Steamers, one with two capacious boats so placed as to serve instead of Paddle boxes—Meadows opposite & below Woolwich, beautifully verdant like Kallatum and covered with herds whose variegated colours are brightened by the morning sun —An 800 ton West Indiaman towed up by two pigmy tugs. Gravesend —North Fleet—Heme Bay—Reculvers encroached upon by the waters— Cliffs Margate—North Foreland—Steamers and sailing vessels moving away to the "North Countrie"—Chatted with a commercial man going to B. on [353] business—a Cockney and rather uninformed—many of the Passengers suffering from Sea sickness—Young Irishmen laughing it off, but one by one obliged to succum^. Our little boat rolling greatly and shipping fore and aft. Most of the Steerage Passengers drenched—chatted with one of the Irishmen and found him a fine openhearted fellow, also with a smart English boy of 16 or 17 going to visit his father who resides at Versailles. Is himself apprentice to a chemist in London, has been frequently in France and has been telling me about the Custom House—Diligences—Hotels &c. Several of the Steerage Passengers are English Labourers going to seek work on the Continental Railways. Reached the Quay at Boulogne about 9 P.M. On landing, surrounded by mob of Porters—Fishermen and Commissionaires from difft Hotels—Pass through Custom House Office and point out baggage to Com: C.H. Officers—pompous looking bearded & moustachiod figures—Having been recommended by the Commercial traveler to the Hotel d'Angleterre— enquired for it at a gentleman-like french fellow passenger who had lain on the sofa most of the passage across & was then going along the Quay chatting with his Commissionaire—a regular Jean Bt looking character—Continued to walk along with him & finally yielding to the persuasive eloquence of the Comm: went to the same hotel—the H. Meurice — took seat in passing the Coach Office for Paris by the 9 o'clock morning diligence— Ordered an omelette for supper—dressed, and accompanied by the Commissionaire, sailed forth to deliver a letter of introduction to B. Consul Hamilton and a packet of Lambert Pine Seeds to Colonel Sansot Governor of Boulogne—Sat with Mr Hamilton for a few minutes and chatted about Scotland—Mr Leslie—my father's visit to France in 1825—and Dr D. McL. who practised at one period in Boulogne—Mrs Hamilton spoke English very well for a Frenchwoman—Chatted with the Commissionaire in going through the dimly lighted streets to Sansot's residence. He described S. as a "vieux gruinard de l'empire" and as having once saved Napoleon's life—Rapped at the gate of Ss residence but could not gain admission—In returning to the Hotel, Pierre exchanged some jokes with a party of the Garde Municipale, who dressed in long grey Capots and armed with muskets were going to their station—Discussed the omelette and went to bed. May 7: Up at 6 and set out to visit the old town. Circumambulate the ramparts which are 24 feet broad. Pass two old gentlemen taking their morning walk. They had what seemed to me an ancient regime air about them—also met a portly Priest on the ramparts—Some nice well cultivated 354. gardens immediately without the ramparts having fruit trees trained against the walls. Some Soldiers employed in the Gardens—The ramparts enclose the old town in which there are many old fashioned houses. They are fringed with an avenue of lime trees, which gives a pleasant shade. Instead of the walk around being clothed with a verdant and velvety carpet of grass and turf, as on the little frequented ramparts of Fort George and Ft Augustus— They are as well trodden and as innocent of anything green almost as the Kings Highway. Was much pleased with the beauty and high cultivation of the gardens and after taking another look at them on leaving the auld town proceeded into the country in the direction of Napoleons British Invasion or rather Army of England Pillar (say Column). Boulogne is built on an undulating country & is far from being level or regularly built. In the suburbs saw again some nice gardens adorning the slopes. The surrounding country rather bare, and bleak looking with reddish cold. soil. Met several waggons laden with logs and billets of Green wood drawn by 3 and 4 horses each—Horses middlesized clumsy boney animals. Harness and waggons inferior to the English—and the drivers not so well clothed, their dress consisting of corduroy or cotton trousers and blue cotton smock frocks or blouses. Market women coming into town riding on asses, with their milk in wooden hooped kegs and other wares in cloths and baskets slung round the saddle, which was in general covered with Sheepskin, & in order to accommodate the freight I suppose so large as to extend from withers to crupper—Some of the Paysannes were on foot laden with milk pails—an immense cotton umbrella formed part of the accoutrements of all riders and pedestrians. The men had a thin and sallow look, but many of the younger women were rosy & embonpoint—Returned to town without having reached the Invasion Column—Sought out Colonel Sansot's again—Enquired my way at a shop boy who replied in English tho' he could not speak french— On calling at Sansot's left the parcel with the maid servant who said he was from home—Having still 3A of an hour to spare went to the Quay and witnessed a fish auction. A tall moustachiod man stood in the midst of a pile of fish which he was selling to about 50 buxom fishwifes—at the close of the sale each seized her own purchase and they soon disappeared from the scene. They were of all ages from 20 to 60, robust, healthy looking dames & the chief peculiarity in their dress was the wearing of large brass earrings. The middle aged and elderly ones disfigured themselves by the vile practise of snuff taking. A number of fishing boats lying along the Quay— the fishermen swarthy tobacco chewers in red shirts, blue trousers, sea boots and glazed hats. 355 Had a good breakfast at the Hotel—excellent coffee—bread—Bill & Passport expenses amounted to 15 francs—Took my place in the Coupee of the diligence and was seated next a stout man of 25 or 30—apparently an Innkeeper or Farmer—to his left was a stout elderly man a Road surveyor or something of the sort, and in the left hand corner sat the Conducteur. The Innkeeper and Road Surveyor as I shall take the liberty of calling them—kept up a rambling conversation and the former during the lulls answered tho' rather reluctantly a few questions I put regarding the localities—he left us at Montreuil and for the succeeding stage I found the Elderly gentlemen polite and communicative. On leaving Boulogne, passed over a hilly country up and down from one undulation to another—Beyond Montreuil passed the forest of Cressy. It consists like all the forests I saw in France of different kinds of Hardwood—Oak, Ash, Horse Chestnut, Maple &c. The Sanglier or wild boar is still found there. My next compagnon de voyage was a stout middle aged prosperous looking mechanic or retail merchant from Lisle who asked me a number of questions regarding England, and replied frankly and pleasantly to my interrogations. He was a devout Catholic, and stated that Religion was gaining ground in his quarter. Was pleased with the appearance of Abbeville and the surrounding country—the ancient looking Gates, Ramparts draw bridge and ditch reminded me of the middle ages, and the fortified towns described in Scott and James's Novels—Wooded knolls and sloping banks, well cultivated fields and a peep or two of a smoothly flowing river made up the landscape without the town. Dined at Abbeville—a variety of dishes, but the meat lean and dry. Joined on the Coupee by a young chapelier who having completed his apprenticeship under paternal instruction was going to seek further improvement in Paris under the auspices of an elder brother engaged in the same business. The youth was at first rather sad at quitting his native place and breaking up all the pleasant associations therewith connected but his sensations were not so acute as long to prevent his joining in the conversation. He informed that there were six Spanish refugees stationed in Abbeville, that the Government quartered refugees in different parts of the kingdom and supplied them with a monthly allowance of money. At one or two steep hills all the passengers had to get out and walk. Chatted with my companion at the Hotel Meurice who had an inside seat—a beautiful evening—roadside adorned with apple trees just out of blossom—their produce only fit for the Cider Vat—Ploughman at work after sunset. I suppose they have had a siesta during the heat of the afternoon. Ploughs onewheeled large and very clumsy. Fields not divided by hedgerows, [356] nor any other apparent landmarks. Frequently not a single house diversifies the monotony of the landscape, as the population as in Ancient Italy live in villages. Where the villages are not along the roadside they are often concealed from view by the foret (woods) which supplies them with fuel, and then the Church Spire and the Smoke appearing above the tree tops are the only indications of their existence. Pass and meet at different times, poorly mounted equestrians. In the villages, judging from the dress of the inhabitants, and appearance of the houses great equality of condition seems to prevail. There is little poverty or rather pauperism & perhaps quite as little wealth. The absence of great landed proprietors & capitalists is an evil, and their presence, or influence in certain stages of advancement, as now in England is a still greater one. Cooperation in the production and distribution of wealth is the blessed preventative of the ills of either state which some future generation, happier and wiser than the present will successfully adopt. Meantime happy those who by tongue, pen or example can aid in hastening the advent of the much to be desired era when "everyone shall know the Lord from the greatest to the least" that is when every one shall fully understand the harmony between the Universal Mind, working in Nature, and his own mind and thus know and fulfil the conditions on which his enjoyment of the greatest happiness depends. After night fall entered Beauvais and in passing thro' a narrow street upset a chaise. Our cocher and conducteur and the cocher of the Chaise rated each other in the choicest Billingsgate for about 10 minutes, before a single effort was made to extricate the fallen chaise and horses. I observed that the expletives and vituperatives used did not in a single instance resemble those in use amongst the French Canadians—sacre bete d' imbecile was the epithet which our cocher lavished most unsparingly on his brother knight of the whip, and the Conducteur being the one less immediately concerned in the mishap, was the first to propose the remedying of it. On quitting Beauvais, drew the curtain of the Coupee, and slept till shortly before sunrise. When I woke we were bowling along a nicely causewayed road in a most beautiful champagne country, with a handsome chateau nearly embosomed in woods on the left, a rich and partially wooded country on the right, and some nice looking houses about three miles before on which the rays of the morning sun were just beginning to impinge. At that hour, the unfortunates who were that day to meet a horrible fate on the Versailles Railroad were either calmly sleeping, or if awake perhaps looking forward with joyous anticipation to the pleasures of the Fete. The sun was pretty high when we entered the bustling town of St Denis and it being Sunday I was [357] surprised to find the Shops open and everything betokening the active prosecution of business. Remarked the number of bull dogs, generally large sized, in the streets. A fine causewayed road and avenue from St Denis to the metropolis, even at the early hour of 6 or Vz past 6 trodden by many pedestrians. About Va past 7 entered Paris. Was assailed on descending from the Coupee with applications in English and French, from Commissionaires belonging to different hotels for the honor of carrying my luggage. Went to the Hotel de Rouen, dressed, breakfasted, and thereafter sallied out to deliver letter of introduction to Dr Macloughlin. Found the Dr at home in the Rue de la paix, chatted with him for sometime about his relatives in the Columbia—the Rebellion in Canada, and my objects in visiting the French Metropolis. We then walked out towards the Champs Elysees where the Dr had a patient to see and the first person we met of the Drs acquaintance, was the head and front of the Canadian remonstrants—Monsr Papineau himself. As I had been enquiring about his whereabouts, the Dr conversed with him for ten minutes to give me an opportunity as he said of observing his appearance. I wished his hat off, but from what I noted, as he took off his hat for an instance in salutation, I should say, that his head is of the average size and the intellectual region well developed, the perceptives rather predominating in size over the reflec- tives—the temperament nervous, bilious, Countenance pleasing, and the dark brown prominent and sparkling eyes give it an appearance of vivacity and fire. Papineau seemed about 50 years of age, he was thin and 5 ft. 9 or 10 in height. Walked up and down the Champs Elysees while the Dr visited two patients, and had a glass of beer of a light and bitter quality. The noble walk on passing from the Tuileries through the Champs Elysees to the triumphal arch at Neuilly was thronged with vehicles. One Fiacre came bounding along at a furious pace and just as it reached us fell, and the driver who had lost command of the reins was precipated heavily to the ground. Being the first to reach the spot I picked him up, and enquired if he was hurt. He seemed stupified by the fall but replied that he was not. The police who were soon on the spot, declaring him drunk I believe, took him in charge. McL. busied himself in seeing to the requirements of a lady who was inside the chaise, but fortunately escaped uninjured. At 12—took our seats in the Railway train for Versailles. The environs of the city in this direction were laid out in Orchards, Nurseries, Market Gardens, Clover and Rye fields. As we advanced the Dr pointed out Montmartre, and the field where the last British Soldier a grenadier was killed by a cannon shot, just after the Parisians capitulated. Altho' it was [358] Sunday men were at work at the fortifications. On reaching our destination the Dr accompanied me to the Palace and Gardens & after appointing a meeting next morning at 7, and recommending me to return by the "Rive Droite" train he went to see his patient. The Gardens were crowded with well dressed parties come to witness the Fete des grandes Eaux—there was also a good sprinkling of country people, and the basses classes from the Metropolis, in more homely attire. Students and school-boys from the difft. public schools or Colleges as they are called in the youth's uniform—swallow tailed blue coat with bright buttons. There was the usual proportion of women and boys with cakes, comfits and full and particular accounts of the proceedings for sale. Walked about, sometimes in the middle space which slopes down from behind the Palace to the Park, and a beautiful sheet of water whereon lay calmly floating, some elegant and highly ornamented barges belonging to the Royal family. When tired, I seated myself on the benches conveniently placed by the sides of the walks, and chatted, or regarded the sea of human faces tossing about in the foreground. Could distinguish parties of English sometimes by their dress and aspect, at others, by their language. From time to time, entered the leafy groves where on either side, were the basins in which the waters played. Remarked the great number of soldiers mixed with the crowd. Felt tired of sauntering about and somewhat inclined to return to Paris about 3 o'clock, but as the great display of waterworks was to take place at 5, I finally decided on remaining, and mixing with the crowd already assembling round the great basin—endeavoured to while away the time by conversing with such as were so disposed and, to the credit of the French be it said, they are always ready cheerfully to satisfy the enquiries of a stranger. In the centre of the large basin, was a group of nondescript animals in bronze, Hydras, Gorgons, Centaurs, Lions—Herculeses & Titans all grotesque enough, and at different points along the sides of the basin were similar figures—at 5—they all commenced spouting water from mouths, nostrils, fingers and toes to the great delight of all present, myself included, but I was soon sated with the Spectacle, and along with a french man with whom I had kept company for some time, proceeded out of the palace. There were about 10,000 persons assembled round the basin when the grandes eaux commenced playing. My companion, as we left the palace proposed going to the "rive gauche" railway station as it was nearest but agreed to accompany me to the other as I remembering the Drs recommendation preferred it. At the right bank station—there was an immense crowd, in which we were soon obliged to part company. I was tossed and hustled about [359] for nearly an hour, before it came to my turn to get a place in the train. As no doubt there was an equal crowd at the other station we should not perhaps have shared in the catastrophe at Meudon, had we gone by it—but I daresay my companion thanked his stars next day that he had been induced by his politeness to the "Anglais" to return by the right bank. To say the least, it saved him a walk of 7 miles from Meudon where the road was blocked up by the smoking fragments of the burnt carriages. Found myself in the carriage amongst an agreeable set of people. I joked them about the utility of the fortifications, and they did not hesitate to express regret at such waste of the public money. Several enquiries were made about the railroads in England. Got home about 8 — had supper and turned in. In descending the Rue Vivienne was addressed in English by a seedy sharper-looking fellow who followed me endeavouring to draw my attention until I suddenly turned half round and in laconic terms, expressed a desire that he would go to the infernal regions with which his importunities ceased. What could he have wanted? I do not think it was charity. On the morning of Monday the 9th called on Dr McL. and was introduced to a Dr Gent a young Englishman educated and practising in Paris who accompanied me to La Charite and conveyed the Dr's request to Mr Kofman an Interne that he would put me in the way of getting some dissection in the Autopsy Room of the hospital. Gent who spoke English well, but French better took me into the Medical and Surgical Wards and having seen me fairly initiated went his way. The Students were all talking of the Yesterday's accident on the Railway, and wondering whether such of their fellows as were not present, had suffered. Went the rounds with Velpeau and looked in upon Gudy the other Surgeon—and upon Andral and Bouillaud Physicians. In the forenoon shifted quarters from the Hotel de Rouen to that of the Cote d'Or in the Rue St Dominique St Germain close by La Charite. Called on Albert Legrand to deliver a letter from his quondam schoolmate A. C. Macpherson. Legrand was an agreeable young man of 22 or 23—engaged in business with his father—he accompanied me through the Luxembourg Gardens, and we made an appointment for a future meeting. At the Morgue saw four bodies, considerably mutilated from the Versailles railroad. The crowd desiring admission was so great that the police arranged them in a rank four deep, and in this order they entered the building, walked past the glass partition behind which were the bodies, and issued by another door. While standing in the row heard a person close by speaking of "Espagne" and addressing him, found that he was a Christino Capitan—and of course destierrado. We spoke of Sir W. Scott whose [360] writing he admired greatly, and was then perusing of the Spanish Legion of which he said his countrymen had a contemptible opinion, and that the ironical question was often put, whether these could be compatriots of those who under Wellington expelled the arrogant French. Being desirous of finding some Cafe or reading room frequented by Spaniards I asked him if he knew of any, and his reply was that he did not know above half a dozen Spaniards in the City—that there were a good many in Paris from Spain and the S. American republics, but they were wealthy, and moved in a higher sphere than he could aspire to. To my question whether he could not return to Spain he replied with a smile— "Me cortarian la cabeza". The Capitan was a middle sized square built man of 25 or 30 with an open intelligent countenance clear complexion, and dark sparkling eye. Had a chat with Andre, garcon of the Hotel, and a native of the mountains of Franche Comte—he said chamois and wolves were scarce in his district & that a premium of 20 francs was given for a wolf's head. Twitted him about the Conscription and found that he believed it to exist in all countries— he could not read. In the evening went to hear Dumoutier deliver an introductory lecture on Phrenology, and entered for the course—Dum: promising to instruct me in the art of cast-taking. Got into conversation with a Mr Calderon a native of Cuba who had also entered for the course. We spoke of Combes Constitution of Man of which he having read the French Translation, was as great an admirer as myself—Dumontier a bustling little man with perhaps a thread of quackishness in his composition—quite the Francais in manner and appearance and, as I afterwards found, very opinionated. Tuesday, May 11: Went to La Charite in the morning and after breakfast joined Kofman in the Dissecting Room or rather Autopsy room, and dissected the axilla and the arterial trunks from thence to the wrist. Called at the Place Dauphine to deliver an epistle from A.C.M. to a Mr. Macpher- son who had resided in Paris since 1783. Hoped to have found the old gentleman full of anecdote, and fond of descanting on the stormy times of the first Revolution but he either had been an unimpressible plodding money-getter in youth, devoid of the talent for observing human nature, or age and the asthma had obliterated early impressions—he spoke kindly of his young friend Macpherson—of Badenoch and of a nephew there unfortunate in sheep farming who contemplated emigration, and had made some draughts on his purse. In the evening had coffee in a superbly ornamented Cafe in the Palais Royal, and afterwards in one of the Salons a lire [361 glanced over the Sun Morning Chronicle, La Gaceta de Madrid and other Spanish papers. May 12: Accompanied Velpeau round his wards and heard him deliver a clinical lecture on some of the more important cases. Dissected shoulder joint and muscles of Scapula. In the afternoon delivered Richard the Mesmerist Elliotson's note of introduction. He did not impress me favorably. His manner was that of a designing quack, savoring strongly of Secretiveness, and acquisitiveness the activity of which organs were manifested by his expression of countenance. I thought he seemed disappointed at not finding the Anglais the garcon had announced to him to be a patient, and while he promised to inform me by post, when I should have a case I could not help doubting at the time the sincerity of his intention. In the evening, attended a meeting of the Phrenological Society at Dumoutier's — Bouilland the Lacharite Physician and author on Diseases of the heart was in the chair. Casimir Broussais read a paper on a late work on the Passions, in which, the Philosophy of Phrenology and ideas thereon based, published by his father the elder Broussais, and others by himself had been put forth as original, accompanied if memory deceives me not, with a more or less positive denial of the doctrine of Gall, and appeals to existing prejudices against it. Noted the striking difference in form between the English and French National Head, the larger Inhabitiveness and I should think Philo- progenitiveness of the former and the greater Ideality of the latter. The French are said to have less Causality than the British but amongst the members of the Phren: Society I did not observe any comparative deficiency in this respect. Some of them had noble developments of the Intellectual and Moral Regions, and I regretted not finding out their names from those sitting near me to whom I applied. Casimir Broussais had the appearance of high intelligence and amiability—Bouillaud of acuteness, penetration and sarcasticity if I may coin a word—Fossati of Benevolence, and two others unknown—same high qualities as Broussais with less vivacity, and a more contemplative cast of countenance. There seemed to be a revival of enthusiasm amongst the members, and propositions were recorded for the renewal of the Phrenological Journal. The fine things said on the importance of Phrenology and the close connection between its advancement and the progression of Humanity inspired me with sanguine hopes that a new impetus would be given to the cultivators of the Science; but these were dampened by a conversation held at the next class Meeting with Dumontier, for his experience did not lead him to entertain any expectation that the Journal would be re-established—in short he regarded as Vox et praeterea [362] nihil the eloquent declamation and high minded resolves of his Confreres at the meeting. Did not like Dumontier's way of talking about his associates. The members were I believe chiefly professional men, and the competition among all branches of this class being great in Paris probably with every good desire they could not afford the pecuniary loss consequent on an unsuccessful endeavour to resuscitate the Journal, and therefore did not give efficient support to the proposal. Members included, there were about 50 persons present, and I must say that the Society as far as I could judge would bear comparison with its prototype in London. Find no record in Note Book of the doings of Thursday 13th May. Must have gone the rounds and dissected at Lacharite and probably sought out a Phrenologist and Mesmerist Dr named Frappart to whom I bore an introductory note from Elliotson. On reaching his house was informed by the Grisette that he had died a month before. On Friday spent several hours in the Louvre. Much pleased with some pictures by Murillo the great Spanish Master, and some of Vernet, a Parisian painter of the present or a recent era. Like Portraits, Landscapes, pieces representing travellers encamped, or en route and the like, but have no admiration for the Savior on the cross altho' it has been a subject for so many artists. When Orthodox I thought it irreverent, and degrading to the subject and now that my opinions are changed as to the inspiration of the N.T. I prefer the pictures representing the Meek and lowly Jesus delivering his Sermon on the Mount, or performing works of love and benevolence. The great profusion of battle pieces indicate the warlike tastes of the nation. John Bull if inspired with the same spirit while treading the halls of the Louvre can soothe his national vanity by reflection that not a single Seafight but some trivial engagement with the English off Dunkirk is represented. The choicest pieces of Rembrandt, Titio, Cuyp and Raphael also adorn the walls of this magnificent repository of art. Revisited the Louvre several times, and always with great enjoyment. One day had a chat with one of the attendants who are all dres't in red liveries or uniforms. He said they were all veterans—that he himself was a Norman and had fought in some of the Emperor's later battles. He made many enquiries regarding Angleterre. On Saturday 15th May went the rounds with Velpeau, and got into conversation with an English Student named Thompson whose countenance I remembered having seen at Guy's the preceding winter. Being quite ignorant of French, he seemed glad to meet with a countryman, and we met frequently during the remainder of my stay. He was a nice gentle but rather delicate lad of one or two and twenty—I made him promise faithfully to read the writings of both the Combes after obtaining his Surgical [363] Diploma. Called for him at Guy's in September, and learnt that having passed the College of Surgeons, he had gone to recreate at Whitehaven his native place, for the rest of the summer. Went to the top of the Place de Vendome Column, and had an excellent view of the city, some soldiers who ascended after me, naming such localities as they knew. Gave 6s. to the Porter for the use of a Lantern—he appeared under 25 years of age but had lost an arm at Algiers. Called on Vimont and he appointed an hour on the following Tuesday for shewing me his museum. Afterwards walked along the Champs Elyees to the Arc de Triomphe which is a highly ornate structure—broad causewayed and avenued roads diverge from it in six or eight different directions leading through a country of surpassing richness and beauty, that owing to the transparency of the atmosphere can, at almost all times be seen to advantage. The great number of handsome aristocratic villas taken into account, the neighbourhood of London indicates greater wealth, but the comparative want of avenued roads and absence of Forest Scenery with the too prevalent haziness of the atmosphere, prevented me from ever appreciating so highly a walk into the country from London as from Paris. The Londoners may boast of their Parks, as unequalled in the French Metropolis and the Parisians of their Forests. The Champs Elysees were crowded with beau monde—Family parties in open barouches—Bloods on elegant jet black Arabs the first of the pure bred I had seen—Citizens on ordinary nags displaying all degrees of horsemanship—a large proportion of militaires on horse and foot with crowds of humble pedestrians of middling and low degree on the pathways. Fruit and Cake Stands, Basket women, and dealers in mint water and lemonade abound and amongst the trees bordering the promenade on either side might be seen dancing dogs, jugglers and tumblers each surrounded by a crowd of light hearted spectators. Got home in time to dine at the Hotel for 2 francs at the 5 o'clock Ordinary. We had 3 or 4 courses and Vz a bottle of Vin Ordinaire each. There were 5 persons present, all except a Pole, resident in the Hotel. Their occupations were I supposed either mercantile or legal, and the conversation was on the Railway accident, or on balls and Theatricals past or future. The dishes were ready carved and handed round by the garcon so that each might help himself as he chose. In the evening at Dumoutier's—Conversed again with the Cuban Calderon and became acquainted with a young Swiss named Adolphe de Morlot who quite agreed with us in admiration of the philosophy of the Natural Laws altho' not yet prepared to admit that the Brain consists of a congeries of organs, the functions & relative size of which are ascertainable by observation. The class 3<54: consisted of a Swiss, a Spaniard—a Russian, a German and a Scot—the absence of native students shewing that either Phrenology or Dumoutier were not much regarded in Paris. On Sunday the 15 th May breakfasted with Dr Macloughlin, and by his recommendation visited St Germains the residence of the exiled Stuarts in former days. Took Montmartre in my way to the Railway embarcadere. The hill is covered with old fashioned houses and a few windmills. The quarries which afforded Cuvier so many fossil treasures are still worked. On a grass plot over-hanging the quarry, saw a youth miserably clad in the garb of labourer lying asleep. Dropt a half franc piece beside him and endeavoured by a kick of the foot to awaken him in passing, but not succeeding returned and pointed out the money for which he thanked me in a listless manner and prepared to continue his nap. Said he was not out of employment. Started for St. Germains at Vz past 1 o by omni. My neighbour on the outside was an intelligent youth of 21 or 22 from Panama and we conversed in F. & E. pleasantly till he got down at a village two miles from St Germains. He had resided sometime in Devonshire and spoke English well. Was then studying Engineering in Paris and purposed making the tour of Spain before recrossing the Atlantic. The population of Panama is 12,000—they cross from thence to Chagres in a day and a half. Recommended Phrenology and the Natural Laws to his attention with earnestness and empressement. He had up to that period only heard the new science of Mind ridiculed. On quitting the Railway crossed the Seine by a handsome bridge, and saw on the right bank below, a wharf where the Rouen steamers stop— ascended the hill, on which the town & Chateau stand, by flights of steps leading from one terrace to another, and from the upper one had a most magnificent and extensive prospect—Paris in the centre of a wide extensive plain or basin, the most conspicuous object amidst towns and villages verdant fields, vine clad hills and leafy forests which the eye in travelling o'er the wide level met in every direction. The sun shed a flood of golden light on the scene and its rays were brightly reflected by the meandering Seine as it swept past the base of the hill on which I stood. The Chateau is a dingy ancient looking building constructed of stone and brick with stainy brick chimnies. It is now occupied as a military Penitentiary, and is not open to visitors without an order. Sauntered in the Park or rather Oak forest for an hour. It is twenty one miles in circumference and stocked with Red and fallow deer, Hares, pheasants and partridges. Numerous smooth and wide roads intersect the forest, and these as far as I went were thronged with Cabriolets containing happy family groups, adventurers mounted on sorry [365] hacks at 2 francs an hour and on asses at something less, besides numerous pedestrians chiefly of the humbler classes. Kept within earshot for some time of three village matrons who, as they drove home a cow, chattered most loquaciously criticising the passers by, cracking hearty jokes, and emitting peals of laughter at the awkwardness of some of the Equestrians—also overtook a female and two male Spaniards who were looking for a fourth of their party. Their rather poverty-stricken appearance betokened them Destierrados. Sat me down on a bench, and mused on the probable visitors of the Park a century ago when "Bonnie Prince Charlie" enlivened the hopes of his father's faithful followers. Dined at a Restaurant opposite the Chateau, and sauntered afterwards to the Terrace again to enjoy the beauteous prospect. Could not ascertain the names of the distant hills bounding the Paris Basin —Mont Calvaire bristling with fortifications appeared to be a continuation of the same sloping hill on which I sat and the interspace was filled up with fields of wheat and rye—vineyards elegant houses and gardens with the Versailles aqueducts conspiciously prominent. From St Germains could trace the Coteau similarly beautified and still laved at its base by the unruffled Seine as far down as the village of Maison where the view was closed by the approximation of the Colline from the opposite side of the Basin. Monday, May 16:—at La Charite in the Morning. During forenoon at the Ecole de Medicine where heard Chassaignac deliver a lecture introductory to a course of Operative Surgery. In the dissecting rooms of the Ecole pratique were several subjects on which the Lecturers and pupils operated. Found that I could spend a few hours daily to greater advantage here than in dissecting alone and clandestinely in the Autopsy Room at Lacharite where the head & neck of the subject were inviolate, and admission after visit hours was unattainable when a gruff Cerberus of a Porter who discomfited me more than once, happened to be at the Hospital Gate. Had Legrand to dine with me and afterwards accompanied him to the Opera- Comique where the acting was mediocre. Tuesday, May 17: Went to La Pitie. It is a large quadrangular building with a square in the middle laid out as a garden. Rows of trees along the borders form nice shaded summer walks for the patients, and covered ways afford a promenade during the inclement season. Accompanied the celebrated Lisfranc in his rounds and heard him deliver a clinical lecture. He was a large boned heavy built, rather corpulent man of 55 or 60 fully 6 feet in height dressed in an old fashioned grass green short tailed coat & sable unmentionables, and as may be supposed, looked sufficiently outre. He snuffed prodigiously, and displayed in ordinary conversation, and still more in lecturing, much energy manifested by gesticulation and fearful grimaces and [366] contortions of countenance. With the patients he was kind, and gentle and with females, and boys more especially playful and familiar. Against some ignorant professors of his art he dealt out fierce invective and satire in liberal measure, and made some hits at Velpeau whom the students say he detests, since vanquished by him at a Concours. I should say that Lisfranc physically and perhaps intellectually and morally belongs to same class of men as Danton, the Coadjutor of Robespierre and Marat. He was expected to have excised an upper macillary bone, but postponed the operation till the following Tuesday—Breakfasted on boiled beef and bouillon at one of the little shops of the Compagnie Hollandaise. This company has shops throughout the city and confines itself to supplying the above articles of good quality, and at a price which dealers on a smaller scale could not afford to sell at. The beef is boiled at central establishments and distributed to the different shops according to their consumption. From thence went to the Pantheon a stately and elegant edifice. The tombs of Rousseau and Voltaire are among the principal sights there also the columns inscribed with the names in letters of gold of the heroes of July 1830. Some veteran soldiers are in attendance and go round by turns with parties of 6 or 8 visitors. Got into conversation with two men apparently mechanics while waiting the completion of our number. One of them attired in a blouse, speaking of the fruitlessness of the last revolution said they would have to repeat the experiment if affairs did not become more prosperous. While in the vaults accompanying and questioning the guide an old gentleman of the party said he was on the eve of visiting England, and seemed very desirous of information regarding the best modes of travelling and of sight seeing in London. Gave him every information on these subjects and recommended his staying at the Temperance Hotel Aldersgate Street where he would find what he seemed to lay some stress on—an economical residence and in Fanning who resided there a fluent French speaker. Wrote my name in his pocket book so that he might mention it on going there. Found on returning to London that he had not—and also discovered that some of the French Hotels in Leicester Sq. would for him have been preferable. Accompanied him to Val de grace an ancient Benedictine Abbey but now a military hospital rendered conspicuous by its dome. We entered the Church but not the Hospital. I then bade adieu to my cheerful and very conversible old companion who went to the Observatory while I returned through the Luxembourg Garden to the E de M. While resting on one of the benches in the Gardens chatted with a boy of 10 or 12. He was an interne of the college St Louis—said there were no corporal 367'. ^~ punishments employed by the teachers—that there were several English boys at the College, and "on les embete" he added with much glee. He seemed an idle little rogue. Thence to the Jardin des Plantes. The collection of animals was inferior to that of the London Zool: Gardens, but the liberality which admitted all classes without money and without price is beyond all Greek (Scotch), beyond all English praise. While watching the gambols and mischievous tricks of the monkeys, chatted with a young mechanic who had made an appointment to meet his master at the monkey cage at one oclock. He said that amongst his acquaintances the theatre and other spectacles engrossed more of the leisure time than reading. He seemed a happy contented and steady youth. In the garden were some noble specimens of my Columbia friends Berberis Aquifolia and Ribes Sanguinea. Admired a noble Cedar of Lebanon planted early in the 18th Century by the elder Jussieu. Two large square plots of ground are occupied by the Botanic Garden in which the plants are arranged according to the Natl. Orders. The Professor often delivers the lecture in the midst of the plants under the shade of some mighty chesnut or Limetree. On quitting the Garden sat down on a stone bench to rest a little before entering the Geological Museum and Library. Found myself next a couple of stout country women with whom entered into conversation. One of them the spokeswoman was a butcher's wife from the Department Laine. She seemed a bustling thrifty money making person with no ideas above the Shop. Said they worked on Sundays in her quarter and had relaxation and enjoyment on Fete days which I daresay occur pretty often. She seemed to have but faint ideas of Natural Religion and not a particle of regard for the Catholic Faith. In her village said "Le monde est libre, on n'est pas devot". She made many enquiries regarding Angleterre and was a cheerful lively and I daresay kind hearted old dame. Wednesday, May 18: Dissecting at the Ecole Pratique. In the afternoon went to Vimonts on a fresh appointment having been too late for that of Tuesday. Vimont a native of Normandy had looked more like an Anglais than a Francais—his head was middle sized and showed a considerable fulness at the intellectual region with a well adjusted balance between the Reflectives and Perceptives. Still it was not a striking head like Hewett Watson's, Dr A. Combe's or Fleming's. V. spoke disparagingly of Dumontier, and I think with reason, respectfully of G. and A. Combe, lamenting at the same time the ignorance of Comparative Phrenology evinced by most British writers. He evidently considered himself, and I must allow the justice of the claim as the princeps phrenologorum in this department. The Museum occupied a large room and was beautifully arranged in Glass cases. He 368: showed me the scull of a boy of 6 who destroyed himself by masturbation despite the preventive efforts of his parents, who being wealthy spared neither expence nor trouble to save him. The development of Amativeness was excessive and the inferior part of occipital bone corresponding to the organ, worn as thin as a wafer and perforated in one or two places. The scull was otherwise well proportioned. The cranium of a brigand chief presented an enormous developt. of Destructiveness and that of a woman, of Alimentiveness, the characters of the individuals while in life agreeing closely in these particulars with the development. Vimont spoke English about as well as I did French, and we conversed sometimes in one language, sometimes in the other. Find nothing on record for Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Must have dissected, attended Dumontier. Chatted with Morlot, sauntered about with Thompson in the evenings, enjoyed myself in the swimming baths after quitting dissecting room, and read the French papers in the nearest Cafe and the English ones at Galignanis or the Palais Royal. Sunday, May z i: Breakfasted with Dr Macloughlin and afterwards set out for the Hotel des Invalides where I principally wished to see Napoleons Coffin. Admired the paintings inside the magnificent dome— Inscriptions to the memory of Vauban and Turenne mark where the ashes of these heroes repose. Napoleon's Coffin lies in a niche of the Chapel. Six hundred thousand francs have been allotted for the erection over it of a monument by Marochetti. The monument to the gallant Francis the First at St Denis is to serve as a model. Saw numbers of veterans sauntering about, sitting on the benches; or playing at a game resembling quoits in the back garden. Chatted with several, and found that a good proportion had been estropies at Algiers. There were crowds of well dressed people flocking to the Chapel to see the coffin of the Empereur. The weather for a wonder was cloudy. On leaving the Hotel intended to proceed by the Champs de Mars to the Arc de triomphe de 1' Etoile. Seeing a young man proceeding in the same direction, made some remark to him, which he answered civilly, so we fell into conversation. He was a young Spanish Merchant from Valencia on a short visit to Paris, and being rather more of a stranger, and a somewhat worse French speaker than myself he agreed gladly, being engaged in sightseeing, to direct his steps to the same quarter as myself. We overtook two French Infantry soldiers with whom I broached a chat. Their period of service had nearly expired, and they were looking forward with joy to the prospect of abandoning la gloire and converting their swords into ploughshares with the use of which latter they had, in the happy morning of life, [369] n been familiar. My companion seemed a shrewd man of business, who cared for little else. He said that Catholicism had Ijttle or no hold over the educated minds in Spain. Judging from his own sentiments and also what he said regarding others I should fear that no genial and high toned faith in human progression had taken the place of the ancient belief, but that a dull comfortless nothingarianism was generally prevalent. Ignace Vidal, Morlot's friend contemplates translating the Constitution of Man into Spanish. I wish with all my heart that he may succeed, and aid, with other influences now operating, to put an end to the long night of Spains mental stagnation and retrogression. Vidal, about whom I enquired, happened to be my companion's cousin, but the merchant seemed to hold the philosophy, phrenologist and physician in little repute. I got Vidals address and on returning to London sent him by post Engledue's opening address at the Meeting of the Phrenol: Assoc: wherein the new and interesting subject of Mesmero—Phrenol: was touched upon. We mounted the Arc de triomphe together and had. a magnificent view. There were crowds of people on the summit with as usual a sprinkling of English. My companion was not much of a politician, and did not anticipate many useful reforms from Espartero's government. He left me about 4 o'clock having to dine with a friend at the other end of the city. Remained long on the Arc de T. enjoying the prospect. Returned homewards through the Champs Elysees where dined at an outdoor table amongst crowds of others either eating or drinking in front of a Restaurant. In one of the open spaces in the Ch: El: saw different parties of boys apparently from boarding schools playing joyously, and in one of the most spacious clear spots were a number of well dressed men playing a game with a ball. In passing the Cirque or Circus saw crowds waiting for admission and placed myself amongst them. Some wonderful feats of horsemanship were performed. The most expert rider a model of symmetry and muscular development had an Italian physiognomy. The place was crowded to excess, and I had to stand nearly the whole time and was situated near an illtempered fellow of a Frenchman who was snarling at all around. Chatted in going home with an industrious little Jeweller's apprentice who gave me many particulars regarding his parentage and mode of life. We parted at the Pont Royal. Monday, May zz: Went to the Bicetre having an introduction from Dr Macloughlin to one of the Physicians Monsr. Voisin a well known Phrenologist. Happened to embark in the same Omnibus near the Hotel Dieu with one of the junior Physicians but did not ascertain this until we got out [370] together at the Bicetre gate. I then asked him to direct me to Monsr. Voisin, and we proceeded together to a large Hall where between forty and fifty lunatics were quietly seated. Monsr. V. had not yet arrived. One of the lunatics an English Surgeon discovered me to be a countryman, and began to rail furiously at me and the English in general. Voisin on arriving greeted me courteouly and expressed high esteem for Dr Macloughlin. He spoke kindly to some of the Lunatics, and then they all commenced singing—a youth of 16 performing on a small organ as an accompaniment. They sang several beautiful airs amongst others La Parisienne. When the singing was over the Englishman softened to a better mood came up and shook me warmly by the hand. Promised to return on a future occasion to go round the wards, but did not find a convenient opportunity. Voisin drove me in his cabriolet to Vauvres (an old fashioned suburban village) to his residence and private Asylum where we breakfasted at the edge of a beautiful lawn under the shade of some majestic Limetrees and with a bubbling fountain gushing past. Monsr. C Dr Falret V's partner, Madl. F. and an interesting looking young girl of 17 or 18 a patient were just finishing their repast as we sat down. V. promised to take me to an Idiot Asylum after breakfast along with the Schoolmaster of the Bicetre who had accompanied us in the Cabriolet to Vauvres. While waiting for the Dr. I interpreted for a venerable looking Englishman who came to look at the grave of his son the Revd. Fitzgibbon Stuart who had died in the Hospital some years before. I explained his wishes and they referred to the books, but I do not know whether the place of interment was ascertained or not. Vimont drove along with us as far as the Place des Carrousels, but could not afford time to proceed to the Idiot Asylum—so I went thither along with the Schoolmaster a cheerful, benevolent, well informed man. We found about 20 children and young persons chiefly of the male sex under the care of a good tempered loquacious soeur de la Charite. Some were totally helpless unable even to feed themselves—others had different degrees of intelligence, and one or two whose complaint was weakness of the limbs possessed the average of educability. In all cases, there was a correspondence between the cranial development and the mental manifestations. To such as had any capacity the good sister had taught the catechismal dogmas on Original Sin, the Trinity and Transubstantiation, which doubtless must have been very edifying. Teaching these things to the wild Indians of the Columbia, almost equals this in absurdity, and being the work of educated men is more reprehensible than in the ignorant tho' well meaning parisian matron. Waited for some time expecting the arrival of a young man who devoted [371] much attention to the improvement of these unfortunate beings, but had to leave without seeing him. Parted with my Bicetre friend after crossing the Pont Henri Quatre and proceeded to the Ecole pratique. Tuesday—Planted myself in a cafe in the Rue de l'Ecole de Medicine, and wrote three pages of a letter to Uncle James. Met Morlot by appointment and accompanied him to an ordinary frequented by Spaniards and South Americans to one or two of whom he introduced me and from thence forward I had every meal at this house—that is to say breakfast and dinner for I conformed at once to the French habits and dispensed with tea. Frequently spent a couple of hours in the evening in a cafe reading the papers, and solaced myself with a cup of Coffee or a bottle of small and bitter beer. Wednesday, May 24: Attended meeting of Phren: Society. It was well attended and a lively discussion kept up on the character of a lately deceased musician of whose name I only remember that it ended in ini. A Mr Marechal a young practitioner of Medicine spoke well. A Philadelphia Newspaper, from an American correspondent giving some case or cases of Mes- mero Phrenology was ordered to be reported upon by Dumontier at next meeting. Sat next a very handsome intellectual looking man with whom I got into conversation. He was a Spanish painter and a friend of Morlot's and Calderon's, and as well as his companion a sculptor, a great admirer of the Constitution which they had read on C's recommendation. They invited me to call on them which I afterwards did and was much pleased with the painter's (Perez) mild and gentle manners—his friends placed a high estimate on his professional abilities, but regretted his indolence. Thursday, May 25: Went to Pere la Chaise with the young Birmingian and a rather ambiguous character an Irish student of the name of O'Neill. He was extremely selfish, seldom ready with his purse when the reckoning at a cafe had to be settled, and fond of boasting at the expense of veracity. Saw Marshall Macdonald's monument. Somebody has said that the inscriptions on the monuments in this cemetery express no hope as to the future happiness or even existence of the deceased. Did not remark this, but as far as I remember felt agreeably impressed with the sentiments of most of the inscriptions. Could perceive that Mr. Pattison of Glasgow had borrowed from P. La Chaise the style of the monument to his brother Pattison, and his son my old chum and schoolfellow Tander. Visited La Colonnede Juillet erected on the site of the Bastille and with the names of the insurgent victims engraved on it in letters of gold. The poor Royalists were equally 372. victims, but who shall preserve their name? The day being very hot, we had several bottles of beer in going and returning. O'Neill called the cemetery Pere la Chemise! Had a plump in the swimming bath on reaching the river. The Parisians have better formed feet and more prominent calves than the generality of English. Reached the ordinary in time for dinner and made bold to converse in Spanish occasionally with one or other of those present, but there being Russians and French as well as Spaniards present, the conversation was generally carried on in French. The Spanish students made many enquiries abt. London, and several contemplated spending some time there before finishing their curriculum. One of the Russians of French and German descent, an accountant by profession and Paul Gautier by name had been upwards of a year in the United States and spoke English fluently. He was then seeking a situation in Paris. He seemed much attached to the young Spaniards and the students in general, and, having previously lived at a Hotel frequented by clerks who were spending their own money and not that of their parents, and besides were not so well educated, he felicitated himself on the change. Observed a difference between the pronunciation of the old and new Spaniards. The former gave the th sound as the Grammar orders, the latter sounded it more slightly, and in some words sounded the letters according to the English mode. Had a chat the first day with a dark complexioned youth from Panama, who seemed to be travelling for pleasure. He had been in England and the United States but spoke little English and indifferent French—he had a furious argument with a Venezuelan on the comparative merits of their respective republics. I tried to calm them by giving utterance to some generalities complimentary to both. The Venezulean a fiery ardent character of the stuff patriots and conspirators are made of; was a medical student of probably thirty years of age and expressed his opinions invariably in an authoratative dogmatic manner. Another S. American Domingo Ceballos D.M.P. was from the city of Mexico, whither he was about to return to commence practice. He was an agreeable intelligent young man tho' not one I should have chosen as a friend. We had several perambulations together. Pedro Ossa student of mines a native of Chili I found exceedingly kind and obliging—he was desirous of learning English and I Spanish, so we naturally drew together. I accompanied him on a geological excursion to some quarries near the St Denis road along with Constant Prevost the Professor and about 50 students, men of all civilized nations. Ossa gave me some geological specimens collected in the neighbourhood of Paris. He was a man of gentle demeanour and few words, [ 373 1 but well read and acute and penetrating in his remarks. Don Manuel a young Monte Videan merchant was a fellow I should say, of infinite good temper and benevolence. He was carver general at dinner—that is to say he cut the meat into a few portions more than there were persons present, and the waiter then handed it round as he would bread in England. Don Manuel gave me his address and assured me of a friendly welcome should I ever visit the Rio de la Plata and I took upon me to promise the same should he ever come Columbiawards. The day I left Paris he came to the Messageries Royal to see me off—in fact the honest fellow seemed to be over flowing with the milk of human kindness. Amongst the old Spaniards I became acquainted with a very agreeable man of about 30, exceedingly well read, who had lately betaken himself to the study of medicine—I think he had previously been either an ecclesiastic or lawyer. Be that as it may neither he nor any of the others of whichever nation had the least respect for Mother Church, or any of her Protestant offshoots in May 1842—Some were deistical and too many atheistical. I recommended on every fitting occasion such works as recognize God as a kind parent incessantly superintending humanity and by wise measure providing for its advancement in goodness or moral, intellectual and to a certain physical excellence, in short what I have since learn't from the Shepherd to call Pantheism, or Universalism. I also recommended the philosophy of Gall, and the Constitution of Man with what success I in all probability shall never in this life know. They, in turn advized me to peruse the works of Destutt de Tracy, and of the philosophers of the 18th century. The scholar I have been speaking of had a profound admiration for Sir William Hamilton, one of the most doughty opponents of Phrenology. Another of the Spaniards was young Sanchez from Andulusia, a handsome lively rollicking young student of one or two and twenty. His eyes were about the most beautiful I have ever seen in a man's head, to compare with those of the other sex would be ungallant. They were dark brown large prominent, and lustrous. I gave him, Don Manuel, and Ossa, notes of introduction to Alick Macpherson as they contemplated visiting London in the Autumn. Another was a little dark complexioned elderly man from Seville whence he had travelled in six days to the borders of France. Being employed in the Spanish mint the object of his mission was to pick up some improvements in coining lately introduced in Paris the "centre of civilization and refinement". He could not speak a word of French so I frequently hammered away with him in Spanish, but he either had little information to give, or, what is quite if not more likely—my indifferent 374. Spanish could not extract it. Another Spaniard, and the one I sat next, was a young artist who altho' in Paris for the purpose of studying in the Louvre, still managed to replenish his purse by painting portraits—he knew Perez and lamented his indolence. He had not much to say except on professional subjects. Saturday, May 27: Dined yesterday (Friday) at Vauvres, having been invited by Vimont along with Dr. McL. on Monday. The Dr either could not, or did not feel disposed to attend, so I walked down alone. Vimont was absent when I arrived having gone to a consultation at Meudon, a village on the Versailles road and near to which the Railway catastrophe occurred. I was received by V's assistant, an agreeable young D.M.P. who conducted me round the extensive and beautifully laid out establishment. It consists of 20 acres or upwards of uneven, undulating knolly land encircled by a lofty wall, laid out in the most tasteful manner, in lawns, copses, groves and flower plots, and traversed by a tiny stream which in its course expands into shallow fishponds or tumbles along in miniature rapids and cascades. Nicely painted skiffs for the amusement of the inmates float on the placid bosom of the ponds and the stream is crossed by several rustic bridges. There is a farm yard and red house, and four commodious buildings placed in different quarters out of sight of the main building, and by the disposal of the trees quite isolated from each other. The four houses are occupied by the insane and each has its flower garden, lawn, grove and orchard, a superior classification is thus permitted, and the patients have the advantage of change of scene. The young lady who breakfasted with us on Monday joined the assistant and me as we walked around. She seemed a sweet gentle creature, and expressed a strong desire to go to Paris, asking whether she could not accompany me thither. We dined in the grove by the side of the fountain as on Monday and finished with a demi tasse of superexcellent coffee—young Falreb and his German Tutor a good tempered conceited pedant rather a rara avis some may say is a good tempered pedant, but such he was. He spoke English, and made many enquiries regarding the Indians, the salmon &c &c. &c. which I answered as we sauntered through the grounds after dinner. When tired of walking, we seated ourselves on a mound formed of earth by the long continued labors of the invalids and as we chatted enjoyed a wide extended prospect of a rich champagne country enlivened by the frequent appearance of the St Germains Railway trains which passed close by. When the sun began to near the horizon I bade them adieu and proceeded to the Station and getting a ticket seated myself on the passengers bench. It commanded a view of the Forest of [375] Vincennes, and of a rustic looking little cabaret opposite where several blue bloused mechanics were drinking, and all talking together, in the usual Jean Baptiste manner. On Saturday evening accompanied Morlot to a meeting of young Germans who had weekly reunions for the purpose of hearing of each others welfare; and singing the songs of Faderland. About 8 of them were seated in a large and rather poorly furnished room, each with his pot of beer, and long pipe and, what with their fair complexions, their contour of head and countenance and the above named John Bull (word illegible) they looked as like Englishmen as possible. Several spoke English tolerably and praised the works of Scott and Byron. Their manners were frank and open—and the phrenological developments of two more particularly of a superior order—causality strikingly prominent. They sung several beautiful airs in concert, (takingparts) amongst others Faderland—soon after Morlot and I, bidding them good nacht directed our steps homewards by the Pont Royal. Sunday, May 28: Soon after commencing attendance at La Charite, made the acquaintance of a young Flamand from Brussels, who was a dresser under Velpeau. Agreed with him during the week to accompany the Professor of Geology on his Sunday excursion to Mont Calvaire. I accordingly had an early breakfast at the Spanish Ordinary, and met the Belgian whose name I forget at the Sorbonne. We passed along the Rue St Dominique St Germains. Crossed the Pont de Jena—Passed thro' the Bois de Boulogne which were very pretty—the grassy carpeting bespangled with mayflowers, the thick foliage of the trees in full verdure and the "bonnie broom" by the sides of the path covered with golden blossoms. Family parties on foot were threading the wood in every direction. The trees were small and young like. The Belgian had either two or three maps in his pockets, and yet withal proved an inefficient guide. Had to enquire the way repeatedly. On emerging from the Bois de Boulogne found that we had to follow the course of the Seine through Hay and rye fields for about a mile to the Pont de Neuilly on crossing which we passed for a mile and a half through vineyards and market gardens. Stopped at a Cabaret halfway up Mont Calvaire, and had 3 pints of excellent Vin Ordinaire for either 4 or 6 sous a pint. Being parched with thirst and dust—scarcely ever enjoyed anything more at the moment, but felt somewhat flushed by afterwards. Remarked to the Belgian whose christian name I think was Adolphe that the wine was better than what is sold under the same name at triple the price within the city, and a good humored looking peasant sitting amidst a group of his friends at a neighbouring table who observed our conversation said the country wine was [376] duty free, and likewise unadulterated. He then enquired of the grisette in attendance from what vineyard it had been obtained and she named one in the vicinity. We overtook the Professor with a long string of followers descending Mont Calvaire—he made several stops afterwards and discanted on the formations which were chiefly calcareous, but not having taken notes I have preserved nothing of his discourse. Very extensive fortifications are in course of erection on the mount—and Sunday tho' it was, the workmen were toiling as on week days. This result of freedom of opinion on Religion I deplore—it is a gross and highly pernicious infringement of God's will as revealed to us in our own constitution, and while it lasts the ruling powers will have much to apprehend from discontented classes swayed by the animalism which incessant toil must generate. On again reaching the Bois de Boulogne I got into an Omnibus and was soon in Paris I forget whether Adolphe accompanied me, or continued with the geologists. He was quite the Anglais in appearance and form of head to which latter Benevolence large gave a very favorable aspect. I recommended Phrenology and endeav- voured to lead him to the study of Natural Religion, but finding him a rigid Catholic did not proceed so far as to shock his prejudices. He amused me by saying, that on arriving in Paris he found a difficulty in getting up at 4 in the morning to commence study but that he overcame drowsiness by vowing a certain sum to the poor each morning he overslept. Monday, May 29: Went by Morlot's recommendation to hear Serre an old exponent of Galls' deliver a lecture on the Brains of the Mammalia. Took some notes but they are now too illegible to be copied. Serre intellectual development was good but the moral rather low. Fell in with a young Maltese D.M.P. with whom had an agreeable half hour's conversation on Malta and England. He seemed fond of the English. While waiting the Professor's arrival, put some questions to an intellectual studious looking young man of 7 or 8 and 20 with high veneration who sat near me in the Class room. Discovering my country he led the conversation to the state of Religion in England, and asked me my own opinions. I replied that I was more inclined to the belief of the more intelligent of his countrymen (Pierre Leroux par exemple) than to any shade or degree of orthodoxy. He started at this—avowed himself a Protestant, and when Serre entered, we were in the midst of a stiff debate on antisupernaturalism. Observed several finely organized middle aged men amongst the audience. While waiting for an Omnibus at the La Pitie gate of the Jardins des Plantes chatted with an artizan who was waiting there to rest for a minute before going to work. [377] Thought of the Canadian phrase Bourgeois and asked him by what name workmen in Paris designated their employers—he replied that some trades used the word Patron, others Bourgeois (chiefly labourers) others again Singe which corresponds to the English cork, I daresay—he said that most of the mechanics of his acquaintance worked till 3 or 4 on Sunday afternoon, and took holiday occasionally on fete days—he never went to church himself but thought it a duty to send his children and to have them taught the Catechism. Tuesday, May 30: Went to the Hopital Necke to see Civiale's cases and hear his clinical lecture. Nothing remarkable. Remembered to have seen C. in Glasgow in 1830 exhibiting his Lithotritie instruments. Breakfasted that morning in a cafe in the Palais Royal and found Civiale there similarly engaged. Wednesday, May 31: Accompanied Dumoutier with the rest of the class round the collection of casts made by D. in the Polynesian Isles and Eastern or Indian Ocean during Dumont, Duroille's circumnavigatory expedition. There were 45 heads in all, 8 of which were absent at the Daguerreotyper's and the specimens were from the following countries— New Holland—New Zealand, Sandwich Isles—Solomon Isles—Little Fejee Isles—Coromandel (good) Malabar—Isles Bourbon—Van Diemens Land—Doumoutier showed us soon after some well executed Dag. impressions on a large scale perhaps a fourth as large as life. Saw under the same roof at the J. des Plantes—Gall's collection, but unfortunately we were hurried through the apartment in which it lay. Thursday, June 1: Got a couple of Daguerreotypes taken at the Palais Royal—having sat several times to a friend of Morlots in the Rue de Lille who had just commenced using the instrument, but could not as yet succeed perfectly; until my patience was exhausted. Began about this time preparations for leaving Paris—a rather disagreeable prospect—for the time passed very pleasantly. Friday, June 2: About this time visited the Gobelins, the Madeleine— the Bourse, and got such supplies of Instruments, clothing, gloves as my funds would permit of. Saturday, June 3: Nothing remarkable. Went two or three times of an evening to the Libraire St Genevieve open for many hours daily to the public. Sunday, June 4: Breakfasted with Dr. Macloughlin and on returning home met an English Surgeon from Cornwall with whom I had been dissecting at the Ecole Pratique, and we agreed to proceed together to witness [378] the horseraces at Versailles. We travelled by the left bank train and finding, on reaching the race course Vz a mile distant from the terminus, that the immensity of the crowd would prevent us from seeing we spent the remainder of the day in the palace admiring the paintings, and the splendidly ornamented apartments where kings and nobles once exclusively trod, but now patent I know not how many days in the week to decently dressed persons of every degree. Think I must have spent the evening in a Cabinet de lecture at the Odeon reading an article on Christianisme in the June number of the Revue Independante. It took me several sittings to finish this article, with which I was so much pleased that I purchased the number, and recommended Morlot to read it. Monday, June 5: For this week find nothing on record in the note book. Continued attendance at the Hospitals by turns. Saw Lisfranc extirpate two polypi from the Uterus, and Velpeau operate several times for Cataract. Spent some hours daily at the Ecole. On Tuesday attended for the second time the meeting of the English Medical Society. At both meetings Dr McL. maintained against Record the impropriety and inutility of inoculation as a test of Syphilis. The Dr. had rather the worst of it. On Friday along with Ossa and Morlot accompanied Professor Prevost on the geological excursion already mentioned. Was introduced by Morlot to an Italian botanist, a friend of his, and a man of great attainments. He was about 30, bald, and had an unaffected and rather absent manner. Morlot thought highly of him intellectually and morally. I told him all I could of the Botany of the Extreme West. He himself purposed botanizing in New Holland on the completion of his studies. Now that I recollect of it, find I was also accompanied by the young Birmingian whose name I cannot remember. He had completed the curriculum, and was spending a few months in Paris prior to commencing the world on his own account. He showed a preference for going abroad to remaining in Britain and lamented the sacrifice of mental independance which country practitioners are often obliged to submit to. He named places in Warwickshire where without affecting sanctimoniousness a young Surgeon has no chance of success. Had myself observed in London, Glasgow and the North of Scotland that medical men were in mixed companies extremely chary of taking part in any discussions involving disputed points in Religion, and even in Politics. J. Douglas who as a student was an avowed radical as the word was understood in '29, '30 & '31—in 1842 told me that intermeddling with politics would ruin a Glasgow practitioner. Considering the petty partizanship and disregard of high principle equally characteristic of the two leading parties Conservative [ 379] and Whig-Radical, this deprivation can be but small matter of regret to men of lofty views, particularly as if inspired with proper zeal they can find way of benefiting mankind, without absolutely and openly running counter to prejudices of their connection. The best way to expel error as Channing and others have said is to instil truths incompatible with it in the mildest, gentlest and most unargumentative manner, and when reflexion on the point in question whatever that may be afterwards takes place in the recipients mind, magna est Veritas, prevarebit, may be predicted in many cases. Douglas has for several winters delivered popular lectures on Anatomy. Regretted finding him so little conversant with the Combes writings, Andrew's more especially, but was not surprised at the frequent mention of a little brochure of his own, for egotism was his foible when a student. On Sunday the 12th breakfasted with Dr M. intending afterwards to go to a chapel in the Boulevard des Italiens where the two finest female singers in Paris performed. Remained chatting with the Dr till the hour of service had elapsed and then nothing remained for me but to endeavour to get admission into the Palais Royal which I did through the kindness of a stranger who had an order for self and friends—he happened to be the first who appeared after I had taken post in the lobby of entrance and he at once acceded to my request. The Palais Royal has some exquisite paintings and the apartments open to the public are as richly ornamented with mirrors, marble mantle pieces—guilding and purple hangings, as those in the Versailles Palace. In the beginning of the week attended the flower market near the Madeleine and one near the Pont de l'Hotel Dieu for the purpose of purchasing a specimen of Cactus Monstrosus my friend Murray of the G. B. J. commissioned me to procure. The show was extremely beautiful. Only one of the dealers had a couple of small specimens of the CM. which I purchased for 3 francs. On the morning I left, went, accompanied by Morlot towards a nursery in the neighbourhood of the Jardin des Plantes where I was told by the dealers, larger specimens were to be had. Called en passant on the Italian Botanist in the Rue de Coq. as M. suggested that he might know the whereabouts of this nursery. We found him up and in the midst of books and papers, bundles, of plants and vascula. We had not been seated 5 minutes, when the second gardener of the J. des P. entered, and on learning our errand and that I had bro't the P. Lambert: seeds to Paris, he said they would be happy to present me with a specimen four feet long if I desired it. We all proceeded without delay to the Jardin des Plantes where I selected one 18 inches long and in an hours time it arrived nicely packed 380 in a box at my hotel. The Italian accompanied me round the Botanical Museum, and spoke with rapture of the interesting contents of the large presses containing the Hortus Siccus. Bade the worthy fellow adieu with warmest wishes for his future welfare. Forget where I parted with Morlot but sent him from London some account of the first days proceedings at the "Phrenological Association" also a copy of the C. of Man with two or three of Owen's Pamphlet. The letter and packet were kindly conveyed by a Wine Merchant of Bercy near Paris with whom I became acquainted in the passage from Boulogne. Morlot in reply sent me a long epistle by post, which I have preserved as a memento of him and our walks, conversations, and arguments. Felt some regret at taking leave of my pleasant acquaintances at the Spanish Ordinary. Left for Calais by the 12 o'clock Diligence, and was reluctantly obliged to take an inside seat. My rather unconversible companion for the earlier stages was a navy lieutenant named Jenner, who having obtained leave from the Mediterranean fleet, had travelled by the Diligence from Marseilles. He represented the South of France as suffering much from drought, and said the wheat harvest had commenced, but I suspected that he had mistaken the Rye crops for wheat. He had been a shipmate in the Thunderer of Willoughby Macpherson's and said that he had been of the fatal pleasure party to the Dead Sea, where poor W. got his death-sickness, that two others of the party of six men were dead and a fourth dying. Saw little of the scenery on the homeward route. Were joined at Abbeville by a commercial traveller from Belfast, and by a very agreeable young merchant from Lisle with whom I carried on a lively conversation, while we continued awake for the remainder of the journey. The commercial told us that he had seen a number of English at work on the railways in the course of his travels, and that several of them increased their earnings by making harness for the natives on Sundays. He seemed a feeling man, and lamented the distressed condition of the operatives in Britain. The Lieutenant proposed as a remedy or preventative of riot the increase of the military! Of course recommended Phrenology to the Lisle Merchant and he happening to have Tune large, and to be an excellent musician was rather surprised by being told that he was very fond of music. Dined at the Hotel where the Diligence stopped, along with the Com: an English clergyman, and young medico both residenters, an English Ensign, bird of passage, and a french clerk who had just returned from England where he had unsuccessfully sought a situation. The Commercial and I went on board the steamer together at 7 in the evening; and continued to chat till bedtime about France, England, and N.W. America. Next morning at 9 [381] and a cloudy dull drizzly morning it was I beat up A. Macpherson's quarters in Redlion Sq: and after a hasty breakfast we hurried off to Finsbury to hear W. J. Fox's as usual eloquent discourse. Have reserved till the close a few general remarks. The middle classes in Paris dress with more neatness and taste altho' not so expensively as the same grades in England. The men's coats are much better fitted and the trowsers and boots have an equal superiority. There is no doubt that the organic laws which man in order to enjoy perfect health must obey have universal applications. Yet there are great differences between the means employed for the restoration of health in Paris, and in London. In Paris the Physicians treatment is expectant —he puts the patient on the regimen pointed out by physiological science as the best, & prescribes little else than an occasional ptisan with V.S. and the other modes of exsanguining sparingly as far as I know. In London Hospital practise, prescriptions are frequent and the lancet more freely used. The Parisian Surgeon scarcely uses any other unguent than a simple mixture of Lard and Oil — he stuffs wounds with charpre, and either cannot or will not heal amputation stumps by the first intention. Editor's Note—The diarist's notes on Paris end here and only one further contemporary entry is made as follows: Monday, February 27, 1843: Spoke yesterday two Whalers the Amethyst and the Wm Thompson—Captains Reynard & Ellis—4 months from New Bedford, Mass: bound for the Sandwich Islands to recruit, and thence to fish on the N.W.C. whither from 1 to 200 American Whalers they said were hastening. The Captains came on board the Columbia about 4 and remained till 9 o'clock P.M. chatting about Finners, Sperm Whale—Black fish or Grampuses—their crew and rate of sailing—the next election of President in the U.S. and the rise of a new sect the Millarites, who expect the second advent and the end of the world on the 23 rd April '43. Reynard who was going direct to Mowee took notes from the Captain and myself to Allan and Wood at Honolulu. Going on board the Wm Thompson to see the sick I got a few Newspapers from the Supercargo. The latest date from New Bedford was 14/42 Oct and of English Intelligence Sept: 20 '42 by the steamer Columbia. Nothing of public importance had transpired since the 10th the date of our departure. The Queen had returned from her Scottish tour, and the disturbed manufacturing districts were in statu quo. Was grieved to find that the great and good Channing had died on the 5th October 1842. He has gone to enjoy that Immortality of which he formed such bright and growing anticipations—while on earth he inspired many youthful minds with his own disinterested love of truth 382; and goodness, and tho' dead, he yet speaketh in his writings which will be more than ever read among the liberally inclined Orthodox who are beginning to shake off the trammels of gloomy manwrought creeds and confessions of faith. As Priestly and Belshams mantle has fallen on Fox, Hardwood and Hennell so will the eloquent Channings on some gifted spirit who with the same honest truthloving mind will launch farther out on the broad sea of Universalism or Pantheism. [Editor's Note—There follows, after an interlude of nearly 40 years, this entry when Dr. Tolmie, a resident of Victoria, British Columbia, was visiting in the Puget Sound (U.S.) area with two sons, John and Simon. The latter, was to be a Senator in Canada and subsequently a premier of British Columbia.] Sunday morning, September 18—1881. Here under the hospitable roof of Ezra Meeker, Puyallup Station Wash. Ter. journalize again in this volume after a lapse of some thirty-nine years of life. Write from notes in pocket book. Embarked on Steamer for Tacoma Thursday evening 16th, escorted thither from home by my sons John and Simon. Write from notes in Mem. book. Had a pleasant passage across Fuca Strait. Valise politely looked into by C. H. officer on board. Str Starr has a very unpleasant jerking or wriggling motion on each stroke of the motor power. It prevented sleep and even quiet thought or musing in bed after the boat started at 5 A.M. At Port Townsend went with J. G. Swan to his neat office for a few minutes. Admired his great collection of Indian curios but briefly. He promised to take over for me Morgan's work, and School crafts great work on Indians on N.Am. Made the acquaintance of Mr. Hibert a polite Francais of Paris, but long a resident of Oregon, and well acquainted with Mrs. D. Harvey of Portland, as well as with her father the late John Macloughlin. Also got acquainted with Paul Schultz of Portland and a Captain Kimball of the U.S.A. stationed at Portland where he holds the same position as Hodges formerly did. Mr Cantador a frenchman of New York recently resident in Portland Ore. and concerned in railway business. Had agreeable conversation with the above named and by invitation of Mr Schulz lunched with them. Mr S also gave me a map showing recent and projected railway lines in the West. Mrs Irving of N. Wr also was a passenger. Went early to bed at Tacoma hotel. Schulz said that R.R. would not cross Cascades as produce could be more cheaply carried down Yakima and down Columbia valley to head of navigation on the great river than thro' Cascades. [383] [INDIAN WORDS AND TERMS] I am going off now I have just arrived It is raining Give me that Go with me Come this way Gooff Look at me Tell me this Sun Tookska — Nah toka — — Nei Keetukye - Keepoh (Numbers i to 10 Buffalo Bull Flatheads literal Shakes Blackfoots nation Blood Ind literal Blackfeet literal Fall Inds literal Dragonfly Circees Horse Moon Stars Water Stone Grass Woods What do you want What is it Anooghtiak oomatoo Neemaan ohto Eisoohtau Anei kookit Huch pu Koap Pooch sa poat Mesta sa poat Eh sum o kit Aneekit Atoasie Nohhokska — Neeso oh — Neesitui Nahnisuu — Peechksee — ) Ench Stammick Kootoocha peta peo Peetilksa netapeo Neetzeipuii Peekunni Kaiina Siksikau Atseinaw Suchsecu Panooquamiteh Kookoomikeso Kotatoos stoosix Oohkee Oochotook Matuieis Atsiwaskui Keetsi Keechp Aksa [38 Appendix A— Amongst the seven sons and five daughters of Dr. W. F. Tolmie, the most distinguished was the seventh son. He was Dr. S. F. Tolmie, a veterinary surgeon and farmer, resident on land his father had owned. He was active in both Federal and Provincial politics and served as premier of the Province of British Columbia from 1928 to 1933. In November, 1934, Dr. Tolmie accepted an invitation to speak to the British Columbia Historical Society on recollections of his father's life and times. The paper, preceded by informal but revealing personal reminiscences, throws a humanizing light on the personality of the author of the Tolmie Journals of fur trade days. My Father: William Fraser Tolmie By S. F. Tolmie The name of my father, the late Dr. William Fraser Tolmie, is prominently connected with the pioneer days, and perhaps an outline of his activities in the Pacific Northwest from the time of his arrival, in 1833, until his death, will be interesting to you. These were all active years. I say active because he was energetic and I cannot remember a single instance in his later years that would indicate indolence on his part, and he certainly did not permit anything that had the appearance of laziness during the growing years of his family. My mother passed away in 1880, when I was 13 years old. My father died six years later. During these six years I was practically at his call continuously, and it was during this time that he helped me so greatly with my studies, which I have had reason to appreciate ever since. Before delving into my subject I am simply giving you a few general impressions, so that you may have some idea of the character of the man. I said a moment ago that he was energetic; and as an illustration, one of his favourite sayings was that an hour in the morning was worth two at night. We usually retired about 9 p.m. We arose at 5 in the morning and foregathered in his library about 5.20 a.m., and there we would go over my lessons for the day—Euclid, Algebra, Latin, French, and Greek. He was an excellent scholar in all these subjects. At 7 o'clock our [385] m»- studies were over, and I packed up my lunch and books and walked from 7.30 until a quarter to 9 to the public and high schools of Victoria, at the corner of Yates and Fort streets. It was three-quarters of a mile, without any sidewalks, from the house on the farm to the nearest public road. My father also taught me boxing. I remember he secured the services of a boy who was two years older than I, and how that fellow used to hammer me I will never forget; but I had to stand up and take it, because I had the utmost respect for what my father could do to me in the event of my failing to obey orders. He had often rehearsed on my six older brothers. My first riding lessons were also interesting. I can remember the Saturday afternoon when I received the first lesson. I fell off three times; and after he caught the horse my father's instructions were very brief, consisting of just two words: "Climb on." My father came from Inverness and was inspired with Scottish thrift. I shall never forget the purchase of suits for the seventh son. The idea was not to buy a suit that fitted me, but first to get one that I would not outgrow before it wore out. He was particular about the lasting qualities of the material; and I can see him yet trying the cloth to see if it would wear well. He was a great student and reader and possessed a good library. He led a clean life and was a strict disciplinarian with his growing family. He was a profound student of religion, and though he did not attend church latterly on account of slight deafness, he insisted upon the family going and upon the younger members attending Sunday School. He obeyed the law and expected others to do likewise. He had a deep appreciation of the Pacific Northwest, and great faith in the future destinies of British Columbia, whose claims he never tired of backing. William Fraser Tolmie was born in Inverness, Scotland, on February 3, 1812. He received a sound but not expensive education at private schools in Edinburgh, and subsequently studied medicine at Glasgow University, from which he received the degree of M.D. in 1832. On September 12 of the same year he entered the service of the Hudson's Bay Company, as physician and surgeon; and three days later, on the 15th, he sailed from Gravesend for North-west America in the sailing-ship Qanymede. He celebrated his twenty-first birthday on the way out, but his diary does not indicate how. It would perhaps be interesting to know. The Qanymede travelled by way of Cape Horn and the Sandwich Islands, and arrived at Fort George (Astoria), at the mouth of the Columbia River, on May 1, 1833. Three days later my father reached Fort Vancouver and reported to Dr. John McLoughlin, the Chief Factor in charge. He began his work as medical officer and clerk immediately, and learned that it was intended that he should pay a brief visit to a new post at Nisqually, on Puget Sound, and then be stationed at Fort Mc- [386] Loughlin, which had been built in the spring of the year on Milbanke Sound. After the long sea voyage he preferred to travel overland from Fort Vancouver to Nisqually, where he arrived after a pleasant journey of some twelve days on May 30. At that time the post consisted of only one half-built store building, and the site of the fort proper had not yet been definitely chosen. Early in June one of the men at Nisqually was seriously injured; and as he would require skilled attention for a considerable time, it was decided that Dr. Tolmie should remain there for the present. For part of the time the post, and the building operations under way there, were placed in his charge. "Recollected as I scampered along," my father noted in his diary on June 23, after he had been out riding, "that the past week was the second anniversary of my trip to the Trosachs, last year at this time I was officiating for a few days at the Cholera Hospital and this year am commander of a trading post in a remote corner of the New World with only a force of six effective men in the midst of treacherous, bloodthirsty savages, with whom murder is familiar." My father was an enthusiastic botanist; and perhaps the most important result of his longer stay at Nisqually was that it enabled him to make a botanizing and exploring expedition to the vicinity of Mount Rainier. He set out on August 29, 1833, accompanied by five Indians. He had hired his guide for the trip for a blanket, and the guide's nephew for ammunition. The other Indians went along in the hope of killing elk and deer. The expedition was poorly and cheaply equipped and suffered many hardships. Travel was through virgin country with no trails, and the party crossed swollen streams of icy water from the glaciers, and slept out under the trees on the side of the mountain in heavy rain. It was quite a change for a 21-year-old Cheechako, fresh from Scotland, but his diary gives a remarkably cheerful account of the whole affair. On September 2, and again the following day, he reached the summit of the peak now known as Tolmie's Peak. From this point Mount Rainier "appeared surpassingly splendid and magnificent," and he was able to see small glaciers on the conical portion; but he was not able to climb the great mountain itself. Time was short, and the Indians, who entertained a racial superstition of the giant spirits who lived among the snows, were loath to advance above the timber-line. Indeed, it seems that it was only by stressing his search for medicinal herbs that Dr. Tolmie persuaded them to go as far as they did. This was the first attempt made by a white man to ascend Mount Rainier, and the first observation of living glaciers within what is now the United States. For many years these facts were overlooked; and credit for the first climb towards Mount Rainier, and the first report of glaciers, was given in published records to Lieutenant (later General) A. V. Kautz, the date of his expedition being 1857. Thanks largely to the [387] efforts of the late Professor E. S. Meany, of the University of Washington, a former president of the Mountaineers' Club of Seattle, Dr. Tolmie's claims to priority are now known and acknowledged. On September z, 1933, the National Park Service of the United States and the Rainier National Park Advisory Board invited a number of people from the State of Washington and from British Columbia to attend a centennial celebration and the dedication of a Mowich, or Tolmie, Entrance to Mount Rainier National Park. To serve as a reminder of the rude life of the pioneer, the National Park Service constructed an entrance typical of a Hudson's Bay Company post of one hundred years ago. On the gateway is a bronze plaque recording the significance of the celebration, to serve as a permanent record of this first exploration of the mountain by Dr. Tolmie in 1833. Several descendants of Dr. Tolmie were present, and I was very proud to be asked to take part in the ceremony. The trip to Mount Rainier by Dr. Tolmie was fruitful in more ways than one. He discovered and recorded many new plants which bear his name. He also secured the skins of many birds, including that of the Macgillivray's Warbler (Oporomis tolmiei), which was named after him by Dr. J. K. Townsend. On December 12, 1833, Dr. Tolmie left Nisqually on board the schooner Cadboro, bound for Fort McLoughlin. He arrived on December 23, after a tempestuous voyage, in the course of which the Cadboro more than once almost came to grief. A. C. Anderson, Donald Manson, and my father spent Christmas Day together, and celebrated the event with a rifle-shooting tournament. Later, Dr. Tolmie's diary tells us, they "Passed the evening very agreeably. Sang several old Scotch ditties and the other gentlemen also tuned their pipes." They drank Mountain Dew, whatever that may be; and the Doctor claims that he was "the only person who awoke in good trim" the next morning, and did not suffer from headache and thirst. We do not seem to have changed very much in the last century. The fellow who tells the story still insists that he never had any headache, and never felt badly at all. It is all so human. Dr. Tolmie remained at Fort McLoughlin for five months, and then joined a party under Peter Skene Ogden, bound for the Stikine. They sailed in the brig Dryad on May 30, 1834. During the voyage Dr. Tolmie read Ross Cox's Columbia River—"a work," he noted in his diary, "which has made much noise at home." As I have said already, he was a great reader; and the previous winter, while at Fort McLoughlin, he and Donald Manson "conceived the idea of establishing a circulating library among the officers of the company . . . The officers subscribed, sent the order for books and periodicals to the company's agent in London; the books were sent to all the forts throughout the length and breadth of the land. The library was kept at Fort Vancouver, subscribers sending for such books as they wanted, and returning them when read . . . This was the first circulating library on the Pacific Slope, extending from 1833 t0 x843."* The Dryad called at Fort Simpson, then situated on the Nass River, on June 15. To understand her mission, it must be recalled that in 1833 Roderick Finlayson, an able officer of the Company, who later married an aunt of mine, had been sent north by the Hudson's Bay Company on a scouting trip, to find a site for a trading-post which would intercept the furs then reaching the Russian establishments in Alaska, from what is now the Northern Interior of British Columbia. The Stikine was found to be the chief trading route of the district, and in 1834 Peter Skene Ogden was sent to erect a fort on that river; but he found the Russians blocking the entrance to the territory, and the Indians of the area allied with them. Dr. Tolmie's diary gives an interesting account of the progress and failure of the negotiations which followed. As he was unable to come to any understanding with the Russians, Ogden and his party had to withdraw. On the return voyage southward Ogden moved Fort Simpson from the site upon which it had first been built by Captain Simpson in 1831, on the Nass River, the present site of Port Simpson; and my father gives a graphic account of the evacuation of the old post, which was abandoned to the natives on August 30. Dr. Tolmie remained at Fort Simpson for a time, but arrived once more at Fort McLoughlin on November 3. His description of the New Year festivities on January 1, 1835, is worth quoting: "The men after breakfast visited us in the dining hall and after the compliments of the season received a couple of drams. In the evening they assembled in the same apartment and danced with great vivacity till 10—to vocal music. Manson and I danced several reels. The Canadians possess a natural ease of manner equally remote from the free and aisy of the Emerald Isle and the sheepishness so characteristic of the Sawney. They sung several paddling songs. Our two Iroquois danced the war dance of their tribe with great spirit, and the S[andwich] Islanders sung Rule Britannia tolerably well. They all seemed to enjoy themselves highly." Another entry in the diary made about this time will be of interest. Under the date December 11, 1834, Dr. Tolmie wrote as follows: "Have of late been frequently enquiring amongst the Indians about the rock on which Sir Alexr. McKenzie made the inscription on his arrival at the Pacific. They talk of a rock marked with vermilion about half a days journey hence which I am to visit tomorrow." The next morning my father set out as planned, and the Indians piloted him to "a bare rock partially washed by the tide" upon which were "some Indian hieroglyphics * HH. Bancroft: History of British Columbia, San Francisco 1887, p. 63. [389] marked with red earth"; but from the course they had followed to reach it, Dr. Tolmie concluded regretfully that it could not be Mackenzie's Rock. In the spring of 1836, Dr. Tolmie left Fort McLoughlin and was stationed at Fort Vancouver, where he remained until 1841, when he was granted permission to visit his homeland. He left Fort Vancouver on March 22, 1841, by Hudson's Bay Express, being one of a party in charge of George T. Allen, headed for York Factory, on James Bay. They travelled via the Columbia River to Walla Walla and Fort Colville; and on April 25 left the latter point with two boats and fourteen men. Ten days later, on May 4, they arrived at Boat Encampment, the highest point on the Columbia to which a boat can be used. From this point they travelled on foot and with snow-shoes, where possible, the travel being heavy with soft snow. Proceeding north-eastward, they came to the headwaters of the Athabasca River, the valley of which they followed. On May 10 they met their horses, and on the 12th reached Jasper's House. Taking to boats once again, they proceeded to Fort Assiniboine, from which horses carried them to Fort Edmonton, where they arrived May 20. The next day they started down the Saskatchewan River, and on the 25th reached Fort Carlton. Having reduced their baggage to a minimum there, Mr. Allen and Dr. Tolmie started across the plains, bound for the Red River, in company with an Indian guide and three men. Fort Garry was reached on June 10, and a fortnight later they set out once more for James Bay, by way of Norway House. York Factory was reached finally on July 4, after a journey from Fort Vancouver which had lasted three months and twelve days. Most of these details have been taken from Mr. Allen's very interesting diary. He and my father travelled the whole distance together, and it is amusing to read his complaints about Dr. Tolmie's temperate habits, the latter never having accepted a drink of liquor on the whole journey, while Allen had an adequate supply. This is a day of records—aeroplane flights, sports, etc.—but I have no doubt I am right in claiming for my father the record of having travelled from the Pacific Coast to the Atlantic by canoe and horseback without taking a single drink of alcoholic liquor. Surely this must be a record for a Scotsman. At York Factory my father boarded a ship and proceeded to London. While in Europe he visited France and took a post-graduate course in medicine there. While in Great Britain he had acquired a knowledge of Spanish, having in mind an appointment to the Hudson's Bay post at Yerba Bueana (San Francisco); but when he returned to Fort Vancouver, in 1834, he was stationed at Nisqually instead—this time as superintendent in charge of the Nisqually farms of the Puget Sound Agricultural Company, which had taken over the farming and kindred operations of the Hudson's Bay Company. Dr. Tolmie retained this post until 1859. While he was [ 39°] in charge at Nisqually the foundation live stock was mostly imported from California, and they were of Spanish breed, very much the type of the old Texas longhorn, nearly all horns and legs. In body conformation they looked as though they were bred for speed rather than beef. Nearly twenty years ago I saw in the Buckhorn Saloon in San Antonio, Texas, two specimens of horns from this breed of cattle, one set being 6 feet 6 inches from tip to tip, and the other set 7 feet 3 inches. As my father established such an outstanding record for temperance on his trip to York Factory, I think that I should mention here that I entered the saloon for the sole purpose of seeing the horns. The farming operations of the Puget Sound Agricultural Company at Nisqually were quite extensive. In 1846 the farm possessed 8,312 sheep, 3,180 cattle, and nearly 300 horses. As early as 1841 they were milking 200 cows and making cheese and butter which, in addition to supplying the forts, was sold to the Russians in Alaska. They sold 15,000 bushels of grain in one year to these people. Hides, horns, tallow, and wool were exported to Great Britain, providing additional cargo for the Company's ships. Some of their surplus stock was sold to American settlers. In 1854, Dr. Tolmie made a drive of 3,000 surplus sheep to the Willamette Valley, going as far as Eugene, Oregon. Good prices were secured, and the trip is said to have been very profitable. This source of food and breeding stock was a great boon to early settlers before they were well established. From the time of his arrival in this country Dr. Tolmie made a careful study of Indian languages, and he acquired a very good knowledge of them. This was useful in trading, and also in his medical work among the Indians. When the Indian War broke out in 1855-56, his knowledge of these languages was of great assistance in bringing about peace. Shortly before his death, in collaboration with Dr. George M. Dawson, Dr. Tolmie compiled a comparative dictionary of Indian languages in British Columbia. In 1846 the Oregon boundary award gave the Americans title to what is now Oregon and Washington. As a result, the headquarters of the Hudson's Bay Company were removed in 1849 from Fort Vancouver, Washington, to Victoria, which thereafter became the chief trading-post. In July, 1859, Dr. Tolmie himself moved to Victoria, where he took over the management of the Puget Sound Company's farms on Vancouver Island, and also became one of the three members of the Board of Management of the Hudson's Bay Company. He retired from both services in 1870. Years before this he had obtained a tract of land near Victoria, comprising 1,100 acres, where he settled and where he resided until his death, which occurred on December 8, 1886. This was known as Clover- dale Farm. The house my father built there in 1859-60 is still in an excellent state of preservation, and has been kept as nearly as possible [ 39i ] in its original condition. It is now more than 75 years old, and it is interesting to note that the original stucco coating is still in first-class condition. It was the first stone private dwelling-house built in what is now British Columbia. The kitchen and the rear of the house are constructed of hewn Douglas fir; and this timber is still perfectly preserved. The doors, sashes, and mouldings were imported from California, and are made of California redwood. Wright & Saunders, of San Francisco, were the architects. Needless to say, many functions of interest have taken place in this old home. Among the striking features in the grounds are the original acacia trees imported from Fort Vancouver, one of the largest oaks on Vancouver Island, estimated to be 800 years old, some very excellent Oregon ash, and a fine specimen of California redwood, planted about the time the house was built. This is the house in which I was born, and which I acquired when I became Premier of the Province, in 1928. Among other interesting things that my father did was to import quail from California, in 1866. They were kept in confinement for some time in what we used to know as the "quail-house." I remember it very well, as it was in existence for some years. The descendants of these quail are still to be seen every day in the grounds of Cloverdale. My father took a deep interest in public affairs. Before the jurisdiction of the United States Government was extended to Oregon and Washington a provisional government, in which both British and American subjects participated, managed affairs there; and in June, 1846, Dr. Tolmie was elected to represent Lewis County, Washington, in the House of Representatives. This House met at Oregon City on December 1, and the members were sworn in the next day. In i860, after he had moved from Nisqually to Victoria, my father was elected a member of the Legislative Assembly of Vancouver Island, and remained a member until the union of the Crown Colonies in 1866. He took an active part in the proceedings of the House. The old records show that in i860, for example, he introduced a bill relating to the laying- out and repairing of roads—then, as now, an important subject in this Province. The same year he introduced a bill for the protection of persons aiming at the improvement of live stock; and in this year, too, he introduced a motion relative to the improvement of postal communications with the Mother Country. He also moved for a Select Committee to draw up a petition to be forwarded to Her Majesty regarding the future management of Indians. Dr. Tolmie's keen interest in live stock has been indicated. In 1865 a Stock and Carcass Act was passed, supposedly for the purpose of protecting the producer of live stock on Vancouver Island. The import duties imposed by the Act were heavy; and the measure was opposed by a group led by my father, who claimed it would retard the development of [ 392] farming on account of the lack of breeding stock. In 1866 Dr. Tolmie moved successfully for the reduction of these duties, and they were lowered substantially, that on cattle being cut from $4 to $1 per head. Finally the Act was rescinded altogether; and when the free importation of live stock was resumed, my father showed his interest in herd improvement by importing a pure-bred Shorthorn bull from California, the first to set foot on the Island for a private owner. After British Columbia joined the Dominion, Dr. Tolmie represented Victoria District in the Legislature. He was elected in February, 1874, at the by-election necessitated by the resignation of Amor De Cosmos, who was a member of the House of Commons at the time and vacated his seat owing to the abolition of dual representation. Dr. Tolmie was reelected at the general election held in 1875, and retired from political life in 1878. Among the measures introduced by him were An Act to amend the Law of Trespass so as to provide for Summary Jurisdiction in certain cases, An Act to prevent the Spread of Thistles, An Act to prohibit the Sale or Qift of Intoxicating Liquors or Drugs to Minors and to prevent the frequenting of Liquor Saloons by such Persons, and An Act respecting Breeding Stock. He was also responsible for a resolution urging upon the Federal Government the establishment of Indian Agencies throughout the Province, which was duly passed. Dr. Tolmie took a great interest in education, and was a member of the first Board of Education, which was appointed in 1865. The first meeting of the Board was held on June z, and was attended by His Excellency Governor Kennedy, who explained the provisions of the School Act and submitted a memorandum thereon. My father was elected chairman of the Board, but resigned this office, in spite of the protests of his colleagues, in June, 1867. A sharp difference of opinion existed between the Board and Governor Seymour at that time, and Dr. Tolmie seems to have resigned in order that he might take a more direct part in the meetings. In any event, the minutes show that he either moved or seconded most of the resolutions passed between that date and March 9, 1869, when the Board adjourned sine die. The record of the first Board of Education is very interesting. It made a gallant fight to maintain the system of free education that had been inaugurated on Vancouver Island, but as Governor Seymour was not in favour of free education it was forced through inadequate provision of funds to give up the unequal struggle. This was one of the first fights for free education in this section of the continent. After the Crown Colony joined the Dominion in 1871 the Public School Act was passed on April 11, 1872. By this Act a new Board of Education was created for the Province, consisting of the following persons: W. F. Tolmie, M. W. T. Drake, A. Munro, A. J. Langley, R. Williams, and E. Marvin. Dr. Tolmie continued to act as a member of [ 393 ] this Board until it was abolished by the Public Schools Act of 1879. The report of the Superintendent of Education for the year ending July 31, 1877, states that at the Teachers' Convention held that year there were present forty-seven teachers and Dr. Tolmie, and that the latter "gave a sketch on the relation of teachers, trustees and parents, and impressed on the teachers the necessity of inculcating the 'Golden Rule' as the best means of securing the highest morality." After leaving the service of the two companies he kept on improving his herd of live stock and continued deeply interested in this work until his death. He always took a keen interest in agriculture, and in the development of agricultural exhibitions; and in 1862 was the first president of the Victoria Agricultural Association. His interests were by no means confined to live stock. In 1833 ne brought dahlia seeds from Hawaii to Fort Vancouver; and students of history may care to know that they were planted on May 7 in the garden under a frame. On May 18, when leaving for Nisqually, my father paid them a farewell visit, and noted in his diary that the plants were by that time "nearly an inch high and numerous." This is the first recorded importation of dahlias into the Pacific Northwest, and there are now thousands of varieties of the plant in this section of the country. The same year he also brought seeds of the acacia tree from Hawaii to Fort Vancouver, and these trees have done remarkably well in the Northwest. It is recorded that in 1857 Dr. Tolmie sent strawberry plants from Nisqually to James Douglas at Victoria. I do not know whether or not there is any earlier record of the domestic strawberry in British Columbia. Dr. Tolmie's deep interest in the plant-life of this country was due no doubt to his early training in. botany; and from the time of his arrival on the Pacific Coast he collected specimens of plants, which he sent to his friend Sir William Hooker, the celebrated naturalist, at Kew Gardens, in England. As a consequence there are a number of flowers and shrubs named after him, among which are Saxifraga Tolmiei, Carex Tolmiei, and Tolmiea Menziesii. In 1835, when my father was stationed at Fort McLoughlin, a number of Indians from the north end of Vancouver Island came to trade. The blacksmith was at work at his forge, and when he put more coal on the fire the Indians were very curious. They asked him where the coal came from, and he explained that it took six months to bring it by ship from Wales. He noticed that they were greatly amused and asked what was so funny about it. The Indians replied that it seemed funny that the white men should carry this soft black stone so far when it could be had without expense close at hand. The blacksmith called Dr. Tolmie, and the Indians told him there were places on Vancouver Island where he could get all the soft black stone he wanted, as it cropped out of the ground. My [394] father then notified Dr. McLoughlin, at Fort Vancouver, who ordered the steamer Beaver to stop on her next voyage to see if the Indians were telling the truth. The result was the discovery of the coalfield at Beaver Harbour and the founding of Fort Rupert some years later, when the Hudson's Bay Company determined to undertake mining operations there. The venture was not a commercial success, but the finding of the Beaver Harbour seam nevertheless ranks as the first important discovery of coal in British Columbia. My father strongly favoured Confederation and was an enthusiastic advocate of a transcontinental railway. For the latter he favoured a route through the Yellowhead Pass, reaching the coast at Bute Inlet, crossing by ferry or bridge to Vancouver Island and terminating at Esquimalt. He fought hard for this route, but after it had practically been decided to adopt it, and rails had been unloaded at Esquimalt, the change was made to the Kicking Horse Pass and a terminus on Burrard Inlet. Dr. Tolmie frequently contributed articles to the press pertaining to the development of this country and took a great interest in public affairs. When I was a boy I used to drive him to town on Saturdays, which the average boy has for a holiday; and I sat for hours outside newspaper offices and other places while he was talking politics with somebody. I thought it was a very poor way to spend Saturday, but as I look back on those days I feel that I might have been worse occupied. One cannot study the work of the early pioneers of the Pacific Northwest, on both sides of the line, without the deepest possible appreciation of what they have done for us in laying the foundation of this great section of the North American Continent, a section which, owing to its geographical situation, bountiful resources, and excellent climate, seems destined to be one of the most important centres of commerce in the world. 395 Appendix B— After the Journal Ended The Tolmie journal ends in 1843. In the years between then and 1859, the doctor was at Fort Nisqually (spelled "Nusqually" in Tolmie's papers) where he traded and was responsible for a farm under the control of the Hudson's Bay Company's subsidiary, the Puget Sound Agricultural Company. Produce of the farm was of use in the fur company's operations and was sold to the Russian settlements in Alaska. The farming company's affairs apparently were disappointing financially and as independent farmers put their products on the market, the Company disposed of its farm lands and retired from the business. Dr. W. F. Tolmie was appointed Chief Factor for the Hudson's Bay Company at Fort Nisqually in 1856 and as such acquired shares in the Company. He was transferred to Victoria in 1859 at tne tmie °f tne gold excitement on the Fraser River. Some of his former patients from south of the American border reportedly visited him for treatment at Victoria, but his name does not appear in any records as a practicing physician in the Colony at that time. Dr. Tolmie's duties were chiefly those of manager of the Hudson's Bay Company's farms at Victoria, operated by the Puget Sound Agricultural Company. He remained in that position until his retirement in 1870. [396: Appendix C— Tolmie Firsts Dr. W. F. Tolmie's extra-curricular activities while a surgeon and trader with the Hudson's Bay Company are those that have brought him the most recognition and distinction. He was the first white man to attempt the ascent of Mount Rainier and the first to report a living glacier within the boundaries of what is now the United States. A peak of that mountain is named Mount Tolmie in commemoration of the fact. His ethnological and anthropological studies in the 1830's and subsequently, and his compilations of Indian vocabularies were the first serious or scholarly efforts in these fields in the Pacific Northwest. Dr. Tolmie's gathering of natural history specimens rewarded the early interest in him shown by Sir William Hooker of Kew Gardens, London. A number of new discoveries made in the Northwest resulted in Dr. Tolmie's name becoming permanently associated with various items of flora and fauna collected and sent by him to Britain for identification and recording. Except for Dr. James McKay, a ship's surgeon, who was left for about a year with a Bombay expedition in Nootka Sound in 1786, Dr. Tolmie was the first physician and surgeon to practice his profession in what is now the Province of British Columbia; this by reason of his work at Fort McLoughlin on Milbanke Sound. While manager of the Puget Sound Agricultural Company's farms on Vancouver Island in behalf of the Hudson's Bay Company, Dr. Tolmie indulged his lifelong interest in farming. (A diary entry reveals that he once pondered the merits of his quitting the fur trade and of having his father and brother join him in Canada to engage as a family in farming.) While managing the Hudson's Bay farms at Victoria from 1859 until nis retirement in 1870 and in later years as the squire of the noo-acre farm, "Cloverdale", Dr. Tolmie experimented and pioneered in numerous related activities. He was the first farmer to import shorthorn beef cattle to British Columbia for breeding purposes and he practiced animal husbandry with the importation of good foundation stock that had a helpful influence on agriculture of the region generally. [397] »r Dr. Tolmie is believed to have been the first person in the Pacific Northwest to plant dahlia seeds. He grew the flowers at Fort Vancouver from seed gathered in the Sandwich Islands. Likewise, Dr. Tolmie planted acacia from Owhyee and the prevalence of the imported tree in the Northwest is in large part attributed to the increase from the Tolmie horticultural experiment. The doctor's journal description of his treatment of a servant of the company who suffered a severe laceration of the foot at Fort Nisqually stands as the first detailed report on a medical case written in the Pacific Northwest. 398] Appendix D — Tolmie and McLoughlin Between Dr. William Fraser Tolmie and Dr. John McLoughlin, chief factor of the Hudson's Bay Company for the Columbia region, there appears to have been great mutual respect. The Archives of the Hudson's Bay Company contain a letter dated March 20, 1840 in which Dr. McLoughlin commented to Governor George Simpson: "Dr. Tolmie intends going home on the furlough which the governor and committee granted in their letter of the 15th November, 1837, as soon as we have a successor to replace him and I regret much that he does so, as in justice to him, I beg to assure you I have had none here who have discharged the laborious duties of his two stations of surgeon and Indian trader of this place with such zeal and attention." On Dr. Tolmie's return from Europe he was stationed for a time in Fort Vancouver, then transferred to Fort Nisqually. Under date of November 15, 1843, Dr. John McLoughlin wrote, in a letter to the Governor and Deputy Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company in London: "As directed in your 14 Paragraph I have placed Dr. Tolmie in charge of Nisqually to manage the Puget Sound affair(s) at that place, a charge for which I am happy to say I consider him fully qualified and in which he takes great interest." On Dr. McLoughlin's death the usually stolid younger man wrote of his senior officer in the Company's service: "The late great and good Dr. John McLoughlin ... the head and front, the life and soul, the guide and chief director ..." [399] Appendix E— Fort Vancouver Fort Vancouver on the north side of the Columbia River at the confluence of the Willamette River, was established by the Hudson's Bay Company in the winter of 1824-5. Its purpose was to replace Fort George, farther west on the south bank of the river. Not only was that location considered too close to possible hostile naval action on a coast where Russian, British and American boundary lines were still indefinite, but should the Columbia River eventually mark the northern boundary of United States territory, the Company's establishment would be on the wrong side of the river. For 20 years after its establishing, Fort Vancouver was the principal economic centre of the West Coast of America. The founder and chief factor at Fort Vancouver was John McLoughlin, born at Riviere-du-Loup, on the south bank of the St. Lawrence, the descendant of Scottish, Irish and French-Canadian stock. He was of striking appearance, six feet four inches tall and big framed, with heavy black eyebrows and a shock of prematurely white hair. His characteristics appear to have been those of dominance and dignity; kindliness and quick temper; commercial astuteness and generosity; great energy in behalf of his Company and a marked degree of graciousness as host, even to those in poor circumstances. Chief Factor Dr. John McLoughlin had spent his first years as a surgeon and trader with the North West Company. He was bluntly outspoken in his criticism of the Hudson's Bay Company's past policies while attending at the merger with the North West Company. Because Governor Simpson respected his capability and assumed he would be better at a distance from Montreal, McLoughlin was given charge of the Columbia and New Caledonia Department. This interesting personality who had placed his stamp of orderliness, efficiency and thrifty enterprise upon Fort Vancouver was a legend in his day quite as much as in historical account. He was colloquially referred to as "the Governor" and he impressed those who met and wrote descriptions of him as of that stature, the recognized voice of authority in Northwest America in the 1820's and 1830's. [400 ] HON. S. F. TOLMIE Youngest son of the diarist and a premier of British Columbia Thirty-nine years of age at the time he established Fort Vancouver, Dr. McLoughlin was forty-eight when his new young surgeon, W. F. Tolmie, first called on him at Fort Vancouver. Though only half-dressed and probably half awake, he was cordial in his welcome to the youth who, as he himself had done, was taking his medical diploma and books into a fur trade post. Fort Vancouver continued until about 1845 in its role of principal depot for the Hudson's Bay Company, but in 1841 and 1842 it was clear that the boundary issue might result in the eventual abandonment of the site. Dr. McLoughlin, much attached to the fur trade fort on the Columbia, was loth to see a change. When Governor Simpson insisted on establishing a depot fort at the south end of Vancouver's Island, he issued instructions in 1842 to McLoughlin to construct the establishment. James Douglas was reluctantly "spared" from Fort Vancouver to handle the work. His new Fort Victoria was so well advanced in 1845 that the supply ship Vancouver discharged here in that year the cargo that would previously have gone to Fort Vancouver for distribution. Likewise, in the Spring of 1845, Dr. McLoughlin ordered that furs from the coast and from the interior be sent to Fort Victoria. The great California gold rush of 1849 offset for a time the economic consequences of the International Boundary being set at the Forty-ninth Parallel by the Oregon treaty of 1846. Fort Vancouver continued to gather furs from, the American territory and its merchandise trade was greatly increased by sales to the gold miners who flooded into northern California and prospected in the Sacramento and Willamette valleys. Settlers followed the prospectors and squatters occupied many of the ample acres formerly under Hudson's Bay Company cultivation at Fort Vancouver. In 1846 John McLoughlin was virtually retired. Fort Vancouver was in the care of a board of management consisting of James Douglas and Peter Skene Ogden. Later Chief Factor John Work was added to this board. Dr. Tolmie's affairs had much to do with these men. The year 1849 saw James Douglas return to the fort he had established and transfer the departmental headquarters to that site. Another ten years passed before Dr. Tolmie, who was in charge at Fort Nisqually on Puget's Sound, would join Douglas and Work, his seniors of the service on the Coast, at the new headquarters. Fort Vancouver under Peter Skene Ogden continued to be the main depot for Hudson's Bay forts below the Forty-ninth Parallel, excepting Fort Nisqually which was served from the new Western Department headquarters on Vancouver's Island. Chief Factor Dugald McTavish succeeded [Jtt©SM on Ogden's death in 1854, and was replaced in 1858 by Chief Trader James Grahame. When in 1854 most Indians of the American Northwest were confined to reservations, their fur trapping days were virtually ended and this phase of Fort Vancouver's function shrank to small significance. Competitors came into the merchandising field. The United States Army en' closed the occupied Hudson's Bay Company site, much reduced by surveys of the location making available to settlers land formerly held by the Company. A controversy developed in 1857 over Army efforts to obtain almost final holdings in the Company's possession. In the face of a determined Army policy of aggressive action to curtail Company property to only that occupied by buildings actively in use, the rest being regarded as available for military purposes, the Hudson's Bay Company, in discouragement, decided to abandon the Fort. Its steamer Otter transported goods to Fort Victoria in i860. Technically, tenure continued, but in effect the Hudson's Bay Company's activities there were at an end. The Company had leased Vancouver's Island from the British Government in 1849, a colonial administration began in 1851 and in i860 Vancouver Island's legislative assembly took power. Victoria was busy coping with a gold rush on the Fraser River and its tributaries on the mainland. With a negotiated settlement of $650,000 the Company's claims to compensation for lands at Fort Vancouver and Puget's Sound were paid off by the United States Government in 1870 and 1871. Of the original fort only vestiges, turned up by archeological diggings, have remained. [402] Appendix F— Fort McLoughlin Fort McLoughlin, McLoughlin Bay, Campbell Island in Milbanke Sound, was founded May 23, 1833 by the Hudson's Bay Company. It was abandoned in 1843 and burned, the original buildings being completely demolished. A store was subsequently erected there by the Hudson's Bay Company and the resulting community became known, and persists as, Bella Bella. The name was derived from an Indian tribe of the neighbourhood. The Hudson's Bay Company found it more advantageous to use steamers such as the Beaver and the Otter for trading purposes, rather than to maintain a number of isolated forts. Under this policy, criticized by John McLoughlin, but favored and carried through by Governor George Simpson, Fort McLoughlin was destined to have only a short career. Dr. Tolmie was at Fort McLoughlin from 1833 to 1836. [403] J Appendix G— Dr. Simon Fraser Tolmie 1867 -1937 Youngest of the seven sons of Dr. William Fraser Tolmie Was Simon, who was born in the family farm house, "Cloverdale", in Victoria in 1867 and died there in 1937. The "baby" of the family, he spent much time with his father and benefited in these contacts from the scholarly disciplines and interests of his well-educated, semi-retired parent. Throughout his life, Dr. S. F. Tolmie reflected the social and political consciousness of his father. He had a great interest in the well-being and advancement of British Columbia. Deeply-ingrained in his character was a sense of obligation to give public service. After schooling in Victoria, young Tolmie went to the Ontario Veterinary Cpllege in Toronto, graduating there as a veterinary surgeon in 1891. While practising his profession he became a farmer and a breeder of purebred cattle. In 1906 he was appointed chief inspector for British Columbia of the Federal Health of Animals Branch. He married and raised two sons and two daughters. In 1917 he ran for office as a Conservative in Victoria and represented that riding in the Federal House of Commons from 1917 to 1928. He was minister of agriculture in the Borden-Meighen administration from 191910 1921 and again in the second Meighen administration in 1926. In November of 1926 he was chosen at a memorable convention in Kamloops as leader of the controversy-wracked Conservative party in British Columbia. Dr. Tolmie was persuaded, as a matter of duty, to leave the camparative comfort and security of his Federal position, to give his province leadership. His party won an overwhelming victory at the polls; but from the booming prosperity of 1928 the British Columbia economy dropped into deep depression in 1930 to 1932. Thus the defeat of the Tolmie administration in 1933 was even more spectacular than its 1928 victory. The reverse affected Dr. Tolmie deeply. It was his first experience of political rejection and he regarded the loss of his own riding in that election as a personal expression of disapproval by his fellow citizens of Victoria. Never the less, he stood again for Federal office there in 1936, a year before his death, and had the satisfaction of receiving once more from his Federal constituents a vote of support and confidence. His political career was at the expense of his financial well-being and represented a continuing material sacrifice for what he regarded as duty. [4Q4] Dr. Tolmie was jovial and gifted with a sense of homespun humor that made him popular as a political personality. Where his father tended to be dour and withdrawn, the son was expansive and gregarious. Father and son were alike in their ever-ready willingness to engage in discussion of public affairs. It can be said that, through his youngest son, William Fraser Tolmie long continued to have influence on the public life of the country in which he had pioneered. The son's obvious integrity in office and the public respect he earned were a tribute in part to the high moral principles of the father. [405] Appendix H— Fort Nisqually Fort Nisqually appears always in Dr. Tolmie's diary as Nusqually, a phonetic rendering of the Indian name which others of his time did not copy, choosing even then the present way of spelling. Dr. Tolmie's first experiences in the Columbia River region had to do with an overland trip to the tentative site of a trading post at the southerly end of Puget's Sound in 1833 an°i consideration of Nisqually's site selection. The Fort came under the care of Dr. Tolmie chiefly, it is to be judged, because of his interest and competence as an agriculturist. The extensive Nisqually Farms of the Hudson's Bay Company thrived under his administration of the affairs of the Puget Sound Agricultural Company there. The valley of the Nisqually River can be said to have been the first home of scientific agriculture in the Pacific Northwest, thanks to the educated interest of the chief trader and chief factor at the Fort in the 1840's and 1850's. The doctor realized that the fur trade would be only a passing phase in the economy of the Northwest and that the land he was breaking and foundation stock he imported and selectively bred would introduce a more lasting mark of civilization to the new land. The Hudson's Bay Company found the farm products useful in trade so long as there was not serious competition from settlers and when products could be sold as far north as Alaska in relation to the fur trade. The farms in themselves did not make the Puget Sound Agricultural Company an impressive contributor of earnings. The Hudson's Bay Company tended to be willing to yield its farming functions to others when settlers were producing ample supplies of farm products to meet general needs. Dr. Tolmie practised medicine in Fort Nisqually, as well as trading in furs and directing farm operations. He appears to have had little or no subsequent medical practice after leaving Fort Nisqually for Victoria in 1859, although some former patients are reported to have followed him there for treatment. In many respects Dr. William Fraser Tolmie was, to the earliest days of settlement on Puget Sound, what his distinguished chief, John McLoughlin, was to the Columbia River region near Portland and Oregon City. While at Fort Nisqually, Dr. Tolmie showed a sympathetic interest in the native Indians and did some of the basic ethnic studies there that later contributed to his publishing, with Dr. George M. Dawson, the Comparative Vocabularies of the Indian Tribes of British Columbia in 1884. [406] Index Abbeville (1842), 356 Cape Disappointment, 164 Abercrombie on Reason, 67, 68 Cape Horn, 86 Academy, Mr. Macallum's, 342 Cape Pigeon, 82 Albatross, 87, 97, 101 Cape Swaine, 258 Animals, distribution, 75 Cashmere shawls, 75 Animals, vertebrated, 54 Champs Elysees (1842), 364, 370 Antelope, 339 Channing, death of, 382 Arabia, 109 Chassaignac, 366 Arc de Triomphe (1842), 364 Chechelis River, 193 Audubon, 48 China, export tea, 115 Aurora Borealis, 73 Cholera hospital, 84, 85 Balfron, 27 Clerical life, 90, 91 Belisaire, 98 Climatology, 73, 74 Birthday, twenty-second, 267 Clothing order, 322, 323, 331 Boat, submerged, 279 Coal, 186, 187, 188 Bois de Boulogne (1842), 376 Coffee plant, origin, 108 Boliver, brig, 288, 289, 312, 314 Colymbi, 242 Boredom, 297, 300, 304, 309 Compagnie Hollandaise, 367 Botany list, 184 Corn laws in Britain, 324 Boulogne (1842), 354- 355 Corn prices, Britain, 324 Boyhood, references to, 344 Corn, world production, 325 Brain, influence on motion, 85 Cowlitz, 189 Brava, Cape Verde Islands, 348, Cressy Forest, 356 349 Crinan Canal, 24 Broussais, Casimir, 362 Cuvier, 105 Buffalo, 339 Daguerreotype, Paris, 378 Byron, Lord, 57 Dolomieu, 67 Cadboro to Millbank Sound, 256- Douglas, James, 132, 165 258 Duelling, 262 Cadiack Island, 3 3 Duhamel, 78 Calais by diligence (1842), 381 Dumontier, 361, 362, 378 Campbelton Library, 32 Du Petit Thourars, 78 Canadians (French), 171 Dryad, 280, 288, 289, 291 Canton trade, 34 Earth, internal structure, 63 [407] Earthquakes, 52, 211 Echineis Linnaeus, 58 Eddystone Lighthouse, 121 Europa, zSz, 290, 292, 312 Factor's home, 241 Falco leverianus, 244 Finlayson, 165, 226, 290, 341 Flying fish, 114 Fort Garry, 340, 341 Fort George, 25, 166 Fort Langley, 218 Fort McLoughlin, 258, 259 Fort Pelly, 338, 340 Fort Simpson, 282, 290, 291 Fort William, 24 Francher Journal, 260 French Academy, 100 French countryside (1842), 357 Ganges, 117 Geographical map projections, 60 Harvey, Mrs. D. (1881), 383 Heron, C. F., 210, 211 Hevaheva, 140 Hingham bucket, 161 Honoruru: Ascent of Pari, 137 Breakfast at Laieh, 139 Census, 133 Church, 145 Disc throwing, 134 Literacy, 142 Mount Kala, 141, 142 Natives, 144 Native house, 133 Native meal, 137, 138 Queen Karamana's death, 135 Rehoriho, 144 Surfboards, 138 Tapas, 146 View, 132, 143 Waititi, 144 Hood, Mt., 169, 174 Hotel des Invalides (1842), 369 Hudson's Bay Company, 155, 182, 185, 333> 334 Hydrology, 70 Hydrometer, 91 Iceberg, 86, 88 Indians: Atchilum, 238 Attack, 242, 264, 290 Attempts to convert, 221, 223, 242, 249 Babyar, 223 Barter for oolaghans, 275 Billichoola, 261, 278, 292, 300, 301, 314 Boston's sept, 304 Calendar, 318 Capots, 192 Castrating stallion, 255 Census, 317, 318, 319, 320 Challicoom, 238, 239 Chechalis, 219 Chenook, 210 Chief Kiesno, 168, 169 Chief Scetlam of Kaatchets, 220 Chief Shallicum, 201 Chief Tzallicam, 216 Chihalucums, 228 Chychaish, 229, 302 Chyshilla, 299, 307 Claoset, 224 Circees, 337 Conjuring house, 294-297 Cowguela, 316 Cradle, 200 Custom, 181, 231, 259, 292, 294- 3°7> 308, 310, 313, 3M> 319 Devotions, 171, 172 Dialects, 242 Dog as food, 200 Dress, 193 Eestsesstlich, 307 Elk skins, 313 [408] Encampment, 178, 183 Estetuch, 292, 298 Fishing, 186, 273, 274, 318 Gambling, 225, 317, 328 Gifts, 296 Gunnalaashoot, 293, 295, 296, 298 Haeeltzuk, 278, 293 Haidah, 317 Ideas of drawings, 298 Incantations, 198 Kaatchet, 216 Kaghetasso, 264, 271, 298 Kalalums, 204 Kaschetasso, 308 Kayuse, 337 Kiesno, chief, 168, 169 Kitamats, 269, 299 Kitchaatla, 311, 313 Kittistzoo or Neecelowes, 299 300, 304, 308 Kiumuchquetoch, 303 Klaliooloosh, 304 Klalopa, name, 304 Klalums, 210, 213, 214 Klinwoalletoch, 303 Kokwietoch, 293, 295, 296, 298 Koomkotash, 301, 306 Kummuchquetoch, 292, 307 Kyeet, 264, 271 Kyeet's Cove encampment, 296 Kyekish, 293 Kygarnie, 287, 312 Lack of cleanliness, 189 Language, 309, 337, 338, 384 Leequeeltanoch, 299 Ligeich, 288, 314 Lodges, 195 Lughkinum, 214, 224 Maaset, 316 Mamonk, Sunday, 223 Mat weaving, 239 Medical aid refused, 301 Missionary work, 345 Nasse, 273 Nawilock, 295 Necott, 282 Noogshimadh, 306 Nooseclalum, 243 Oak Point village, 167 Owietoch, 293 Oyallah's sept, 276, 306 Payallipeu, 208 Payment for labor, 219 Physician, 305 Place of the Dead, 167, 168, 169 Plantain as food, 198 Portage, 210 Princess Charlotte, 215 Protection against, 211, 240 Purchase of slave, 310 Religious dance, 210 Saghomedun, 237 Sallal as food, 230, 231 Salmon trap, 190, 191 Samanowash dance, 222 Sannahomish, 216, 220 Sauteux camp, 339, 340, 341 Scadchet, 228 Schools suggested, 333 Sebassa, 272, 307, 311, 312 3M Seix of the Stikines, 285 Sepulchre, 306, 307 Shahaptan, 337 Shallon as food, 234 Shell in trade, 313 Sicanies, 337 Sinuamish, 219 Skalatchet chief, 214 Skatchans, 207 Skittegats, 316 Slaves, 193, 299, 308, 310, 3J3 [409] Starvation, 188 "Soapsuds", 296 Sumamish, 221 Superstition, 167, 238, 289, 292, 297 Tawaltich, 168 Tech te cheinny, 295, 296 Tekatats, 231 Thunook, 241 Trade, 176, 209, 215, 220, 221, 230, 235, 237, 241, 251,288 Tseetzaika, 319 Tumgasse, 287, 288, 290, 312 Two beaver tariff, 228-234, 238 Use of woods, 325 Village distances, 319, 320 Wacash, 272, 292, 293, 306 Weapons of defence, 214 Weetletoch, 301 Wowiallah's village, 306, 307 Youchstiga (article of dress), 295 Jardin des Plantes (1842), 368 Jolifie River, 185 Kamas, root, food, 171 Kiaekeoali, son of Queen Karamana, 132, 136 Kitamaat River, 305 Kitloah River, 305 La Charite (1842), 360, 361 Lammas Fair Day, 25 Lansdowne, Marquis of, 11 La Pitie (1842), 366 Letter re brother in Glasgow, 335 Maaset, 316 Macintosh on Inflammation, no; on Fevers, 112, 113, 114, 116, 117 Madeira, 35 Magendie: Circulation, 102 Nutrition, 89, 102 Respiration, 100 Mail delivery, 177, 178, 218 Mail—Oahu to England, 128 Maltebrun: Afghan government, 112 America, 151 Cape of Good Hope Colony, 151 Central Asia, 114 Ceylon, 120 Hindoos, 121 India, 121, 122 Madras, 119 Malays, 124 N.W. and N.E. America, 154 Persia, no, in Populating America, 154 Siberia, 113 Slave trade, 149, 150 United States, 158, 159 Mamonk, Sunday, 223 Manson, Mr., 258, 259 Marco Polo, 82 Masonic Order, 102 Mat weaving, 239 Measurements for clothing, 321, 330 Letter to Governor Simpson, 334 Medical aid refused, 301 Life buoy, 45 Medicine ordered, 224 Lisfranc, 366, 367, 379 Medicine, practice of: Literary Magnet (1826), 90 Ankle, compound dislocation, Llama, 302, 303, 312, 314, 315 47 London Bridge Quay, 353 Carson, theory circulation, 108, Louvre (1842), 363 109 [410] Cataracts, 56 Mineral kingdom, 65, 66, 67 Chyle and lymph, 92, 93 Mirbel, 78 Concussion and compression, 55 Missionary work, 345 Dog dissected, 10 7-114, 115 Mont Calvaire (1842), 377 Epistaxis, 56 Montmartre (1842), 365 Fever, sympathetic inflammatory, Mount Baker, 201 39 Mount Hood, 169, 174 Fractures, 41 Mount Olympus, 196, 197 Good on diseases, 118; on in Mount Rainier, 199, 209, 217, testinal concretions, 125; on 233, 242^ fever theories, 157, 161, 163; Mount St. Helen's, 181, 190, 192 on febrile miasm, 58 McLoughlin, Dr., 165, 170, 358, Hope on heart diseases, 31 365> 369* 378, 380, 383 Intermittent Fever, 180, 183, McLoughlin's Harbour, 287 250 Napoleon, 351 Leeches, 20 New South Shetlands, 40 Leprosy, Columbia, 342 Newspapers (1842), 353 Lithoplatome, 16 Neried, 280 Lithotomy, 13, 15 New Year's Bay, 82 Macintosh on inflammation, 116; Nisqually, by canoe to, 180-195 on fevers, 112, 113, 114, Nisqually, 195, 199, 208, 212, 116, 117 213, 219 Navus materim, 20 Nymphea Lutea, 287 Purgative, Chinese, 115 Oahu, laundry, 130 Strictures, 59, 61 Oahu, plants collected, 159, 160, Tetanus, 57 161 Tumors, chronic, 40 Ogden, P. S., 226, 280, 284, 287, Urinary organs, disease of, 43 292 Medical treatment for: Paley on scriptures, 80 Abscess, 235 Paley on authenticity of gospels, Acne, 118 106-110 Colic, 31 Paley on personality of Jesus, 123, Gastroenteric irritation, 156 124 Head injury, 153, 154, 155 Panax horrida, 286 Hernia, 254 Pantheon (1842), 367 Scurvy, 307 Papineau, 358 Stomach disorder, 205 Paris to Versailles (1842), 358 Swelling of feet and ankles, 234 Pattison, Tander, 342 Syphilis, 42 Penguin, 77 Toothache, 277 Pere la Chaise, 372 Meudon (1842), 360 Perez, 372, 375 Milbank, 250, 253 Petrifactions, 69 Millarites, 382 Phaeton athereus, 107 [41 1] Pindar, 124 Pinux taxifolia, 286 Plant geography, 53 Plant nutrition, 81 Plant reproduction, 84 Plants agamous, 86 Point Day, 258 Point Ellice, 164 Point Hudson, 256 Polynesians, 263, 300 Pont de Neuilly (1842), 376 Procession of trades, 23 Pythagorean doctrine, 105 Red River settlers, 340, 341 Richardson, Dr. of Chatham, 29 Roots, 77 Russians: Correspondence, 177, 179 Coins, 39 Camp, 283, 284 Incident, 284, 285, 286 Sailors' food allowance, 33 St. Denis (1842), 358 Salmon salted, 234, 235 Salt Lakes, 339 Sandwich Islands customs, 90 Sansot, Colonel, 354 Saskatchewan River, 338 Scott, Sir Walter, 51, 281 Selkirk, Lord, 177 Ships classification by Lloyds, 105 Ship values, 106 Sikh religion, 177 Simpson, Governor, 341, 342 Sisson, John, 255 Squalas glaucus of Linnaeus, 47 Staten Isle, 82, 83 Steam engine, 92 Sturgeon, 111 Testudo carreta, 36, 37, 38 Todd, Dr., 340 Tournefort, 88 Trade: Beaver, 176, 204, 206, 207, 208, 223, 224, 251, 252, 301, 306, 310, 312, 314 With Indians, 209, 220, 221, 230, 235, 237, 241, 251, 288 Chinese, bird nests, 248 Fur, 252 Coast,^o4, 315 Trappers' snake party, 176 Trees, growth, 76 Trinity House Brethren, 94 Trollope, Mrs. on U.S.A., 45 Universalism, 343, 344 Val de Grace (1842), 367 Vancouver, Fort: Accommodation, 172, 173 Arrival, 170 Farm, 171, 173 Funeral, 173 Plain, 174, 175 Store items, 173 Surgical instruments, 173 Vancouver, ship, 201, 202, 204, 281, 282 Vancouver's voyage, 202, 205 Vauvres (1842), 371 Velpeau, 379 Vimont, 368, 375 Voisin, phrenologist, 370, 371 Voyage, discomforts, 46, 59, 60, 63* 64> 75> 77> 81, 9°> 94> 99, 120, 126, 127, 131, i5o*i57 Voyage, food stores, 147; forecastle of ship, 157 Whale oil, 76 Whidbey's Island, 230 White, Kirke, 148, 150 Willamit River, 175 Wilson, ornithologist, 36 IJM| Wine, 41 Work, John, 302, 303 Work, Miss, letter re, 332 World population, 76 Wrangell, Baron, 284 Yale, Mr., 218, 234, 251 U13]
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Original Format: University of British Columbia. Library. Rare Books and Special Collections. FC3213.1.T64 A3 1963a
British Columbia--History
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Physician and fur trader : the journals of William Fraser Tolmie
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