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British Columbia Historical Books Collection
M. Emberson
Emberson, Alfred [J.]
"Bibliography: p.103-104. Information for visitors and prospective settlers. Also: Tourist edition, reprinted 1917. 15 cm."-- Edwards, M. H., Lort, J. C. R., & Carmichael, W. J. (1975). A bibliography of British Columbia: Years of growth, 1900-1950. Victoria, BC: University of Victoria, p. 104.
104, 12 unnumbered pages : illustrations, advertisements ; 16 cm
application/pdf
VICTORIA British Columbia PRICE 25 CENTS Ipjplpp and Investment Agency, Ltd. Real Estate, Financial and Insurance Agents I HOUSES—FARMS—AND LAND 922 Government Street, Victoria, B. C. Agents for Phoenix of London cc EXTRACTS EROJM PRESS NOTICES OF EIRST EDITION r 'All About Victoria' is an admirable little book by Mr. Alfred Emberson, at present a resident of this city. It is illustrated by some charming pen and ink sketches by Mrs. Emberson There are things in the book that a good many Victorians do not know. It is by all odds the best general description of Victoria that has ever been given. . . . . It ought to have a very wide circulation." Victoria Daily Colonist. "A summary of first impressions and sufficient historical foundation to be absorbed in a flying "Seeing Vietoria" Car, this little history is just the thing for the tourist to have in his pocket It is a delightfully condensed history of the city which Mr. Emberson crowds into a brief chapter Mr. Emberson's booklet is attractively illustrated with pen and ink sketches by Mrs. Emberson." Victoria Daily Times. "The writer is a new comer, but he already sees a vision of a fair city, and with the aid of our splendid Provincial Library has been able to furnish a bird's eye view of the city and a synopsis of its history which is easily the neatest and most complete guide yet published. There are few questions which a stranger could ask about Victoria, its original development and prospects which this little book does not answer -." The Week—Victoria. "Within the compass of a little well-bound red book, that can be carried in the pocket, Mr. Emberson prints all that the ordinary visitor needs to know. There is not a line of advertising. . . . ." Vancouver News and Advertiser. "Without being either historical or of the guide-book family, the publication seems to embody some of the characteristics of both. It deals briefly with most of the principal features of the capital, and will doubtless prove of considerable value to the intending resident or visitor to Victoria. Indeed, it is probable that even those who have lived there for a long while will discover much about their city by reading 'All About Victoria,'" _.. __ 0 The Vancouver Sun. "The author has charmingly presented those facts and impressions that give the reader quite a vivid idea of what interest Victoria holds for tho visitor and what it offers as a home city for the newcomer. There is an intimate personal note running through the twelve chapters that is wholly attractive and will surely cause the chance reader to read on when he would throw down a more elaborately illustrated 'publicity* booklet as a weariness to the mind Bead by those in other lands who seek a change, the booklet should cause not a few to seek at some time to know at closer acquaintance this city of the sunset region of Canada." British Columbian, New Westminster. "A kind of chatty guide, by means of which the newcomer may speedily learn his way about the city, or a non-resident gain some idea of how Victoria differs from other cities. . . . . It is very handily bound, in pocket size, and illustrated with some pleasing pen and ink sketches " Vancouver Daily Province. All About Victoria, B. C. TOURIST EDITION Price 25 Cents PREFACE In acceding to a request that I should publish a cheap tourist edition of my little book I have included a few advertisements which will be found at the end. These I have selected and classified in order that they may be of service to visitors. I wish to take this opportunity of tendering my best thanks to the local Press and many residents in Victoria who have shown their appreciation of my efforts as a newcomer to give some useful and comprehensive, although brief notes about their beautiful City. ALFRED EMBERSON. 1007 Collinson Street, April, 1917. All About Victoria British Columbia By Alfred Emberson Author of "All About Vernet-les-Bains," and " Facts and Fancies from the Pyrenees" Pen and Ink Sketches By M. Emberson VICTORIA PRINTING and PUBLISHING COMPANY 1916 All Rights Reserved NOTES NOTE PA 1. Introductory 2. First Impressions of Victoria 3- Earlv Historv of Victoria GE 7 9 27 37 49 57 65 75 83 91 97 103 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Parliament Buildings, the Library and Museum Public Parks Churches, Schools, Hospitals, Clubs and Societies, The Carnegie Public Library, Theatres and Music Halls Street Nomenclature Living in Victoria j The Industries of Victoria 10. 11. 12. Esquimalt The City Hall, Public Market, Fire Brigade, Cemeteries, Some General Information Books About Victoria ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE 1. Geo. Vancouver's Sloop "Discovery" on the Rocks 6 2. Fort Victoria 25 3. Parliament Buildings 35 4. Totem Pole—Oak Bay 47 5. Craiarflower School-house 55 6. The Old Bastion 63 7. Steam Ship Beaver 89 NOTE I INTRODUCTORY When I wrote in 1913 my little "Guide Book," as I must with due humility call it, "All about Vernet-les- Bains," I was installed as Honorary Librarian in the Library of the Etab- lissement in that charming Pyrenean health resort, and here I am now in 1916, some thousands of miles away, temporarily located in a little study in the magnificent Provincial Library of Victoria, British Columbia, thanks to the courtesy of the Librarian, Mr. E. O. S. Scholefield, to whom I am also indebted for many of the interesting facts about the City, which I embody in these pages. My fellow visitors at Vernet were kind enough to say that my notes acceptably supplied their needs for information and guidance, and I am hopeful that those who visit Victoria, or intend making it their home, may find that this little book meets their requirements, and that it 7 will prove of interest to "friends overseas." I fear it may be considered presumption on my. part to attempt to write about this important City upon such a short acquaintance as I can at present claim, but I am a believer in "First impressions" and think that it is better to take advantage of the enthusiasm and energy of a new-comer rather than await the familiarity which might make one deem as unworthy of comment what are really most interesting places and subjects. I venture to think that the attractions of their Capital City may be as imperfectly realised by many residents in this Province as they were by me before I made its acquaintance, despite the eulogistic pamphlets and advertisements I had read, and I can truly say that Victoria's charms have considerably exceeded my anticipations, and that the researches I have had to make in compiling these Notes have afforded me the greatest interest and pleasure. ALFRED J. EMBERSON. NOTE 2. First Impressions of Victoria. My wife and I were living in France for five years before our arrival here in August, 1916, and our first impressions of this City are probably more vivid and exhaustive than they would have been had we come direct from England. There is a tone of sadness—but of grim determination—in the condition of French cities during this terrible war. France having been sadly invaded and ravaged, the people silently nurse their wounded pride and hold in check their righteous wrath at the indignities and desecration that the nation has been forced to temporarily endure, whilst they bravely sustain the losses of husbands, sons and brothers, but they shrink from and condemn any frivolous amusements, and even music grates upon their ears. Theatres and Cinema shows are tolerated, but 9 mostly for the sake of the young folk and the convalescent soldiers. Apropos of Cinema shows, Will Irwin, the American correspondent of the Saturday Evening Post, says in an article on "How life goes on in devastated districts of Northern France," "Heaven bless the man who invented the Moving Pictures! He can never know how much good he has done to relieve the strain of this War." One might summarize the change in the national character as being the absence, temporary let us hope, of the gaiety and la joie de vivre formerly so typical of the inhabitants of La belle France. Now, here in Victoria, there is an altogether different "atmosphere," although the brave Canadians have suffered terribly in the fighting, and there are many sorrowful and anxious hearts in this City. But the exhilarating climate and the sunshine, combined with a firm conviction that Victory is almost in sight and better times ahead, seem to create a spirit of hopefulness 10 and cheerfulness that tends to banish the nightmare of the European Armageddon. Victoria, "The City that is different" as the advertisements somewhat enigmatically call it, forms the extreme south-east point of Vancouver Island and commands a fine view across the Juan de Fuca strait, of the Olympic Mountains in the State of Washington, U.S.A., and, to the east, the majestic snow-capped Mt. Baker, best seen from Oak Bay. The approach to the City by the Canadian Pacific Railway Company's splendid steamers from Vancouver is delightful in every way—provided the sea is calm—and various picturesque islands are passed en route. The beauty of the view of the distant mountains on the mainland and Island is much enhanced by the lovely tints that the clear atmospheric conditions so often create, and which were particularly noticeable in the bright sunshine with which, true to her character, Victoria welcomed me. As the steamers glide through the 11 outer into the inner harbour numerous seagulls circle around them, having patiently awaited their arrival on the long roof of the Grand Trunk Pacific shed, making an otherwise unattractive building a pretty picture. I should say there are few harbours in the world, where, immediately on disembarking, one is greeted by a more beautiful and impressive spectacle than is afforded by the palatial Parliament Buildings, with their garden of emerald-green lawns, tastefully placed shrubberies and flower-beds—usually a blaze of colour—sloping down to Belleville Street and the southern wall of the harbour. And facing the eastern wall is the Empress Hotel with its equally well kept lawn, by which passes Government Street. This reception prepares you for seeing "A Beautiful City," and I do not think you will be disappointed. In the holiday seasons quite a number of "Seeing Victoria" motorcars and coaches await the arrival of the C.P.R. boat from Vancouver at 2.30 p.m. 12 Seeing Victoria in these comfortable cars is a very pleasant and instructive tour—of about two hours—as the driver or conductor gives details of the points and places of interest that are passed. You are taken through "China Town, and then to the best residential quarters, which comprise Linden and Rockland Avenues, Joan Crescent, and Pemberton Road, which is described as "a little bit of old England." The houses here are on high ground and all of a picturesque style, with beautiful well-kept gardens, stocked with climbing and other roses and bright hued flowers. Government House is a very fine residence with beautiful gardens, in a commanding position in Rockland Avenue. Then out to Oak Bay, and across its 18-hole golf- course back through Beacon Hill Park, passing Gonzales Heights and the "old" Observatory, the Rifle Range, Shoal Bay, Foul Bay and Ross Bay and its cemetery. (See Page 99). Foul Bay is the principal bathing place, but unfortunately this Coast is not very suitable 13 for sea bathing; however, the sheltered Gorge affords ample compensation. The Union Club is a massive square brick building near the Empress Hotel, and close by is Belmont Building, on the roof of which is the "Time Ball" regulated from Observatory, Gonzales Heights. The ball is raised halfway at 12.45 p.m., to the top at 12.55, and dropped at 1 p.m. daily. Following Belleville Street past the pretty C.P.R. Ticket Office, you often see behind the store sheds camps of Indians who are waiting for boats to take them up the Island on their return home after harvesting, etc. A little further, on the left, is the W. J. Pendray residence, with its front garden filled with clipped trees in various quaint designs. Turning to the right down Montreal Street you unexpectedly come on some quite countrified roads, leading into the commencement of Dallas Road which, with its detached picturesque houses, can boast of being as fine and pretty a sea- front as can be desired, the well laid road being ideal for motorists. 14 At "The Willows," at the top of Fort Street, there is a large "Arena," now used as a skating rink, and behind it are the Exhibition and Sports grounds, now the "Willows Camp." At Mt. Tolmie, off Fort Street, are the University and Normal Schools. (See Note 6). "Uplands," four miles from Victoria, affords a striking proof of what is expected of the future, for on these beautiful woodlands good asphalted roads, concrete sidewalks bordered with turf, electric lighting, watermains, etc., are already provided and street cars from "Fort" take you there, to within three minutes walk of the Royal Victoria Yacht Club, which is on the shore of Cadboro Bay. The man in charge told me he has 40 "chickens" (yachts) to look after, which need a lot of attention on a windy day or night. There is a lovely view from the club verandah over the bay, with the islands "Discovery" and "Chatham" close by, and the moun- 15 tains in the distance. An ideal spot, I thought, for a residence. It is fortunate for me that I am not compelled to find many new descriptions or adjectives for my remarks about this City, as the pamphlets and advertisements I have come across seem to have exhausted the laudatory vocabulary. For instance what appellations could a new-comer like myself find to excel or even equal these? The Empress City of the Golden West— The Floral City—A City of Homes— The Evergreen City of Canada—A J3it of England on the Shores of the Pacific —The Mecca of all Pacific Coast Tourists—A City of Sunshine. Still, when one has a delightful impression it is nice to be able to talk about it, so I take this opportunity of gratefully stating that ever since our arrival in Victoria my wife and I have met with nothing but the most helpful kindness, in tramway, street, or shop, it has always been the same—"A city that is different" I suppose! Before the war Victoria was always described as a wealthy city and despite 16 losses and reduction of incomes the old fashioned phrase, "well-to-do," may still be said to characterise the residents, and the result of their unstinted energy and patriotic unselfishness as well as their liberality has been shown in the numerous well-attended entertainments etc. organized for Red Cross and other deserving War charities. Esquimalt residents have, I notice, been prominently helpful and a Red Cross "Superfluities" shop has done wonders. Visitors may reasonably ask in what ways Victoria is "different" to other cities, and without being in the confidence of the originator of the expression, I can only give in reply the principal points of difference, as also of resemblance, that I have noticed or been able to discover. First of all, the great difference in the air which, on arriving from "overseas," one finds so exhilarating and invigorating, and from all accounts a temperate anci generally favorable climate is to be relied upon. And the 17 Island's claims to exceptional advantages are justified by the erection on Saanich Mountain, 7 miles from Victoria, of the largest observatory in the world (which is now nearly completed), as this site was selected because of the favorable climatic conditions. It is the "white patch" you can see on the mountain side from the Parliament Buildings gardens. Another feature is the number of charming Bungalows of different designs and sizes, each with a large verandah and usually a garden ablaze with creepers and flowers of brilliant hues which help to make this a veritable "garden city." The fresh green of the grass in all parts of the City, despite even the long dry spell we have experienced here lately, is quite remarkable and is due no doubt to the frequent watering for - which the authorities provide ample facilities. Then the quietude of the City and the orderly behaviour of its inhabitants are noticeable, and after the frequent 18 annoyance experienced in Paris from English-speaking touts and self-styled "Guides," and from beggars and organ- grinders in London, it is refreshing to find a City where such petty troubles are practically unknown. The entrances to the Parks are "different"—to a Londoner at any rate. There are no obnoxious iron railings surrounding them, to be pulled down, as I once saw Hyde Park railings handled, in a riot. No, you just stroll into Beacon Hill Park, for instance, by a little footpath "off Douglas," or straight off the road as at Vancouver or Dallas, and the care of the flowers, etc., and respect for the regulations are left to. the good-sense and good-feeling of Victorians, old and young, and few keepers or guardians are found necessary. The numbering of the houses is certainly "different" to any system I have come across. In my own street I am 1007, and there are only 53 houses in it. But better still at Oak Bay there is an Avenue with, according to the 19 1915 Directory, two houses numbered 2565. and 2671. Without enquiry as to the reason for this eccentric procedure a stranger might accuse the Municipal authorities of trying to magnify Victoria at the cost of veracity, but I find it is the "Philadelphia or Decimal System" that Victoria has adopted, whereby "an even 100 numbers are allotted to each block, so that the number indicates how marry blocks distant it is from any given point on the street or avenue. A number is allotted to every 20 feet." There are further explanations given in the Directory, but I am still busy trying to master this one and apply it on my peregrinations. The Victoria and Island Development Association does excellent work in a thoroughly up to date manner, in helping visitors in every way possible and in advertising the attractions of the Island and its Capital City; but owing perhaps to its broad streets, "with verdure clad," and the absence of crowded vehicular or pedestrian traffic, Victoria appears to me to be quietly assertive, as if to say, "I am a 20 healthy and beautiful city, and I know it—and you will know it soon, if you do not already. So I have no need for "pars" and "puffs," "thank you." The points of resemblance to "the old Country" are even more noticeable than the differences, and amongst them here as in England, "The Rule of the Road is a paradox quite— If you go to the right you go wrong, If you go to the left you go right." And this rule applies to some other parts of Canada, but of course it is very confusing to visitors from the States or from France. Only a slight difference—if any—in "accent" is noticed by English visitors, and Victoria seems to pride itself on being British. It is also pleasing to know that by Law the "Union Jack" flies over all Government schools. The Police bear a striking resemblance to the London "bobbies," and are equally civil and obliging. They affect, however, the white baton of their 21 I Parisian confreres, and one misses that silent, order-inspiring, raising of the hand that so impresses Foreign visitors to London. I have felt that a separate note about its flora would be only appropriate to this City of beautiful trees and flowers, but I find this fascinating subject would require much investigation and study, so I will only say that any flowers or shrubs that grow in Devonshire or the Isle of Wight would, and mostly do, grow here. I must however mention some of the importations from England, as Ivy, Heather, Lilac, Laburnum, Roses, the Tulip and Magnolia trees, Laurels, Lauristinus, Privet, Broom and Holly. The presence of Hedges is also noted with pleasure by English visitors. •The fine knarled and rugged Oaks one so often sees here are indigenous, and there is a profusion of native Spring flowers. The bulb-growing industry is quite of importance. It would need a Wells or Tennyson— to "dip into the future, far as human eye can see"—to prophecy what Van- 22 couver Island and its Capital will be in say fifty years time. I can remember walking through cornfields to Ken- sal Green Cemetery, and a friend from the country — good-natured, patient man that he was—taking me to Wormwood Scrubs common to put salt on the birds' tails. And these are now as densely populated districts as any in London. And Oh! Ye Heaths and Commons around that City, how changed you are! The population of Victoria in 1911 was approximately 50,000, or about the same as that of the whole province in 1881; and in 1853, besides about 17,000 natives, there were only 450 men, women and children, white and mixed. Such object lessons are not being lost sight of by Victoria, and one wonders what its suburbs—Oak Bay and Uplands for example—will be like in even a few years time. But we are engaged with the Victoria of today, when it is large enough and to spare; yet if it can prove itself as attractive as it evidently is, in such times as these, what will it be in the happier days to come. 23 NOTE 3. Early History of Victoria. It is difficult to condense the early history of Victoria into the space allowed by these brief Notes, but those who wish for fuller details will find them admirably set forth in "British Columbia, from the earliest times to the present," by E. O. S. Scholefield, the Provincial librarian and archivist, and in other books mentioned in Note 12. The discovery of British Columbia was made in 1774, by the Spaniard, Perez. The exploration of the coast began with James Cook's visit in 1778, and the Spaniards had explored the southern end of Vancouver Island as early as 1790-2, but it was reserved to George Vancouver, who had accompanied Cook on his second and third voyages of discovery, to thoroughly explore (1792) the Gulf of Georgia and the Juan de Fuca Strait and to give his name to the Island of which Victoria 27 is the capital city. He left Falmouth, England, with Lieutenant Broughton on April 1st, 1791, in the Discovery, a ship which had an eventful career, and during this voyage of exploration ran on to a rock in Queen Charlotte Sound (see sketch), but escaped without damage. He landed, 1792, at Clover Point, just below Beacon Hill Park. Vancouver was buried in the cemetery adjoining Petersham Church, Surrey, England, and a simple headstone bears the inscription: Captain George Vancouver Died in the Year 1798 Aged 40 but in the Church is a memorial tablet erected by the Hudson's Bay Company. Sir George Simpson, Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, having decided to establish a new post on Vancouver Island, James Douglas, in 1842, embarked in the schooner Cadboro, and after a survey of the harbours, chose the port of Camosack (Cam- osun), and in 1843 landed from the steamer "Beaver" (see sketch), and selected the site for the Fort, "Camosun," which name was afterwards changed, first to Albert and then to Victoria in honour of Queen Victoria. This post forms the basis of the present capital of the Province. Thus Victoria, the Queen City of British Columbia, was originally nothing but a Fort, with two bastions (see sketch), one at the North and one at the South corner, on an acre of cleared ground enclosed by a palisade (see sketch). It was 150 yards on each side, and the dwelling and store houses were within a stockade formed of cedar pickets 18 feet above the ground. Not a single iron nail or spike was employed, only wooden pegs. The occupants had some lively times occasionally with the Indian tribes, the Cow- ichins and Songhees, which are represented on the Island to this day. One often sees Indian men and women, carrying big bundles in the streets of 29 ^'11%i Victoria, especially at harvesting time, and, though by no means beautiful, they are sometimes picturesque. During the treaty difficulties, 1846- 47, with the United States, Great Britain sent several vessels to Fort Victoria to guard her interests, amongst them being the Cormorant, Fisgard and Pandora, now remembered in street names. (See Note 7, Page 68). The Hudson's Bay Company's paddle steamer Beaver (see sketch), which I mentioned above was the first steam vessel on the coast. It was 101 ft. in length and 109 tons register, built on the banks of the Thames and launched May 2nd, 1835, but an oft- repeated yarn that King William IV. and sixteen thousand of his subjects witnessed the launching, is asserted to be without foundation. Anyway the little vessel earned for itself a lasting notoriety. At the opening of the new Parliament Buildings (Ferbruary 10th, 1898), a massive and ornate gavel was presented to the Legislative Assembly by Mr. C. W. McCain. It was made 30 of wood taken from the Beaver when she was wrecked and broken to pieces at the entrance to Vancouver. Vancouver Island was proclaimed a British Colony in 1849, and granted to the Hudson's Bay Company for colonization purposes, Richard Blanshard being sent out from England as Governor, and he remained for two years, when he was succeeded by Sir James Douglas, who, in 1856, called together the first Provincial Parliament, which met in a room of the Fort. In 1866 the Island was united to the Province of British Columbia, which in 1871 became part of the Dominion of Canada. } James Bay was so named in 1846 after, then chief-factor, James Douglas, who afterwards resided on its south shore. In 1904 a large portion of this bay was filled in, and on this the Canadian Pacific Railway Company, to whom it had been granted, built the Empress Hotel. Douglas was the most prominent man of this Colony, and the history of his life is well said to be 31 very, largely the history of British Columbia until 1865. But the celebrated "Douglas Fir" was named after David Douglas, a great botanist* 1825, born in Perthshire, Scotland. The Craigflower school- house (see sketch), built almost entirely of Douglas fir, which was erected in 1851 by the Hudson's Bay Company, is still in an excellent state of preservation and there are many similar cases in and around Victoria that show the remarkable durability of this timber. It was in 1858 that Victoria, whose population might only be counted by hundreds, suddenly received an influx of miners, merchants and adventurers estimated to number over twenty thousand. This was due to the discoveries of gold in British Columbia, and thereon I should like to quote an expressive paragraph in Mr. Scholefield's book: "Victoria, the sleepy little backwoods trading post, was suddenly changed into a populous rendezvous. By the wood-fringed shores of the harbour and of the little arm of the sea 32 called James Bay—since filled in—a city of canvas sprang up, and on either side of the Johnson Street ravine the miners pitched their tents." Land Booms and their consequent reactions were not unknown to these early days, and the account of the Fraser River rush to Victoria is quite a romance. You read of land lots that had gone begging at $1, selling for $100 per acre, and one case is recorded of a half-lot bought for £5, selling within a month for £600. When the inevitable reaction came Victoria had already benefited, and completed many improvements. For instance, "Sidewalks were built, and streets, in which the pedestrian used to sink knee-deep in mire, were macadamized." So, doubtless, it has benefited by each successive landboom—possibly a sorry consolation to those of its citizens who have been nearly ruined. 33 NOTE 4. Parliament Buildings—The Library and Museum. I have already alluded to the imposing appearance that the Parliament IBuildings present to visitors arriving at the Canadian Pacific Railway Company's landing place, and I regret that its noble facade cannot be worthily depicted in a sketch of the small size that this book will allow, but my wife has done her best. (See Page ). The main outline of the building is classic; the entrance, with its broad flight of stone steps, and the Central dome, surmounted by the gilded figure of Captain Vancouver, being the chief features. In two niches above the entrance are statues of Sir James Douglas (east side), and Chief Justice Sir Matthew Baillie Begbie (west side), and there is other fine statuary on the south front of the new Library building. i The east wing of two stories and basement is the Museum, of which more anon, and the west wing is devoted to the Government printing department. The front of the buildings, including the wings, is 500 feet. Mr. F. M. Rattenbury, a resident of British Columbia, was the Architect, his designs being chosen from those sent in by 66 Architects from the United States and Canada. This made his reputation, as he was previously quite unknown to fame, and he subsequently designed the Empress Hotel and some important Bank buildings -in Victoria. The interior decoration is in exquisite taste and the marble halls, the Octagonal dome, the wrought-iron and lacquered copper gates, and the oak and stained glass doors are as imposing and effective as the exteriolr. The legislative hall is panelled in Italian marble, and the columns are of green cipolin, but Island timber is well in evidence, as there are Cedar and Maple Rooms, and splendid carved oak columns, canopies, doors and chairs, 38 whilst the Members' desks are of particularly handsome design, in black walnut. Adjoining the Legislative Chamber is a large hall, prettily tiled in Mosaic, containing portraits of eminent Victorians. On a floor above there are very interesting exhibits of fruit, fish, grain, woods and minerals; also some very fine game heads—moose, carriboo, mountain goat and others—well worth the trouble of going upstairs to see them. There is also a collection of medals won at various exhibitions and a silver trophy which was selected in preference to a thousand dollars cash, as a prize at a Potato Exhibition. Achitecturally inclined visitors will find a full description of the Buildings in the Daily Colonist of February 10th, 1898, which is filed in the Library. It was on that date that the buildings were formally opened—with a golden key — by Lieutenant-Governor Mc- Innes. It was 38 years previously that the old Buildings were opened and Vic- 39 toria's population then numbered scarcely three thousand. Within the Main Building, besides the offices of officials, there are the following departments: Agriculture, Education, Fisheries, Forestry, Horticulture, Health, Information, Lands, Mines, Public Works and Water. In front of the Buildings is the garden to which I have given such deserved praise in Note 2, and which besides its magnificent lawns, shrubberies and flowers, contains an obelisk, "erected by the people of British Columbia to the memory of Sir James Douglas, K.C.B., Governor Commander-in- Chief, 1857-1864;" also a handsome bronze fountain, a lofty flagstaff, and some very fine maple trees. Beside the front steps are two cannons, without a history and not looking like ever having one, but behind the Buildings, in front of the Drill Hall, there are two much more business-like cannons, which, I hear, were brought from emplacements made on the coast when the British Admiralty fortified Vic- 40 toria at the time of the scare of war with Russia, and the remains of these emplacements for big guns, between Duntze Head and Beacon Hill Park, are still visible. After this present War we shall probably hear a great deal more about the protection of Victoria and the other British Columbian ports and harbours. But now to return to the Parliament Buildings, I should mention that above the main entrance, in stony glory, is the Coat of Arms of British Columbia, comparing very favorably in its majestic size with the small figure of George Vancouver surmounting the central dome; but not being an expert in heraldry, I will give the interesting description I find in Mr. R. E. Gosnell's "Year Book of British Columbia," for the Arms and more especially the motto, frequently need some explanation to visitors from Overseas, but at the same time I must state that one or two alterations are under discussion with the College of Heralds, the final authority in such 41 matters, which objects principally, I believe, to the Imperial crown." "The features to which it is intended to draw attention are: First, unity with the British nation, both by descent and government; second, its extreme western geographical position; third, its maritime strength; fourth, its assured permanence and glory; fifth, its local fauna. "These objects are attained in the following manner, respectively: First, the field is covered by the Union Jack, the grand standard and national emblem ; second, upon a chief is defined the setting sun; third, this charge is placed upon a field, barry undy, which heraldically symbolizes the sea; fourth, the motto, "Splendor sine occasu," which has been adopted by no other state or individual, refers to the sun, which, though apparently setting, never decreases, and to the Empire which has a glory or radiance encircling the world; fifth, the supporters, a wapiti stag and big horn, are the most noble creatures of the Province, and typify dignity and strength. "These two animals have a peculiar significance, inasmuch as they represent the union of the mainland and island, the wapiti being confined in its habitat to Vancouver Island, and the big horn found only in the mountain ranges of the mainland." The Library deserves more than ordinary notice and praise, as its grandeur is in consonance with its literary treasures. Entering by its carved oak doors you traverse a tiled approach to the Rotunda which, with its massive scagiola columns, panelled walls and floor of Carara marble, and lofty dome, makes you realise what a generous appreciation this Province has rendered to Literature and the Fine Arts. In this central hall are cases for special exhibits, now devoted to a most interesting Shakesperiana collection, and there are some fine old engravings admirably arranged for inspection. These so rivet the attention that it needs many visits to do full justice to the other contents of this really splendid library. There are many rare old manuscripts and books which can be 43 seen on application to the Librarian, Mr. E. O. S. Scholefiejd, who has an apparently limitless fund of knowledge of the history of this Island and the Province, which he is always ready to impart to enquiring visitors. The Rotunda has four very effective little balconies, opening on to a suite of three rooms reserved for Pacific North-west history, a Map collection and Provincial Archives, and on one side is the Reading room, which is well supplied with periodicals and files of newspapers. Over the fireplace should be noticed the very fine carvings in limewood, executed in the Grin- ling Gibbons style. On the other side of the hall is the Reference library. Facing you as you enter is the Information Desk, where every possible attention is given to enquirers, even to the extent of preparing lists or suggesting books on any subject, and for the convenience and comfort of those engaged in research, studies are provided, a boon of which I have gratefully availed myself. There are about 100,000 volumes, but 44 by an excellent system of numbering and cataloguing, any book required is easily and speedily provided. The original Library having been found to be too small a rearrangement and an extension were carried out and the present one—opened to the public September 15, 1915—is as commodious and well-appointed as the growing importance of the City requires. It is already famous for its great collection of books, pamphlets, maps, charts, engravings and manuscripts relating to the discovery, exploration and progressive development of Northwest America. The Museum has some very fine collections of Island and Provincial specimens ; in fact, almost as many apparently, as its present accommodation will allow. All the appropriate "ologies" seem to be well represented, notably perhaps ornithology, but I was personally most pleased with the good specimens of such mammals as the Elk, Caribou, Cougar or Panther, Bear, etc. Some special features are the new species of white bear, discov- 45 ered in 1904 by Mr. Francis Kermode, the Museum's Director, and named after him, Ursus Kermodei, and a collection of Seafowl from Bare Island, in the Straits of Georgia. It appears that there are plenty of bluejays, but no magpies on this Island, and House sparrows frequent the suburbs, but find Victoria's streets too clean for them! There are good specimens of Pileated Woodpeckers and Western humming birds, and amongst flowers I noticed the' lovely blue Camass which grows so profusely on the Island, mostly im aam*iigst rocks, and the Indians feed on its roots. In th-e entrance hall are some Totem poles, the best specimen showing the Raven crest of the owner, and mythical beings belonging to his ancestral traditions. The arch at the bottom was the doorway of the house before which the Totem stood. I must not go into further descriptions here, but can only say that this interesting Museum made the first wet afternoon since our arrival two months ago, most enjoyable and instructive. 46 Totem Pole—Oak Bay NOTE 5. jjj The Public Parks. Victoria has four Public Parks, I Beacon Hill, Stadacona, Central or City, and the Gorge. I have already mentioned (Note 2), the easy access to 1 them in the absence of obnoxious iron Irailings and such-like obstructions, and, fortunately, the palisades and stockades of the early "Fort" days are no longer needful. Beacon Hill, the principal one, of about 300 acres, lies between Douglas and Cook streets, and has many features of interest and amusement. On a broom-covered knoll is a Flagstaff with seats around it, from which you get a magnificent view over Victoria, the Sea, the islands, and, last, but not least, the snowcapped mountains across the Straits. I am told that the quantity of broom in this park affords a wealth of golden splendour in the Spring, and I can quite believe it. Its introduction has been ascribed to Sir James Doug- 49 las, and certainly he resided at one time close to or within the Park. In a group, between the flagstaff and the Deer park, there are two old cannons, a large Chinese bell with an al-t most illegible inscription, and date 1642, and a Totem pole in a rather bad state of preservation, so my wife is giving a sketch of the one at Oak Bay which is a much better specimen.; There are others to be seen in the Provincial Museum. (See Page 46). Totemism is a very interesting subject, which I thank Victoria for introducing so prominently to my notice. Nearby is a massive stone pedestal surmounted by absurdly small bronze figures of Burns and his Highland Mary. Carved on the pedestal are the; lines: "The golden hours, on angel wings Flew o'er me and my dearie; For dear to me as light and Jife Was my sweet Highland Mary." But what connection Burns and his Highland Mary have with Beacon Hill 50 Park or Victoria, I have so far failed to discover. Away near the Band Stand there are swings, chutes and other recreations for the youngsters, and a very picturesque little lake, with, of course, its appropriate swans and ducks. There are plenty of gold fish, but may I say "Why not some seals?" which, in the London Zoo, within a very small space, afford such amusement as they go through their clever performances when their keeper feeds them. Seals are plentiful on these coasts and might be trained. Why not? Then there are the minature Deer Park, and the deer to be petted and fed through the wire-netting of their "Internment Camp," and the Aviaries \and Hutches with owls, golden pheasants, pigeons, rabbits, guinea pigs, etc. At the boundary by Vancouver street are the Albion Cricket Club and Victoria Lawn Bowling Club grounds, and adjoining these are the large nurseries for the Park's plants and trees. As a proof of what these nurseries can do for the park, there is one rose tree in them, on which two hundred dozen.' blooms were counted this year, so I \ am informed—I hope correctly. Good roads run through the park and plenty of seats are provided. Central Park is only a large open grassy space, between Quadra and: Vancouver, and a public playground, I with swings, etc., but Stadacona Park is a little "gem." The gardens are\ very pretty and the shade of the fine old trees makes it an ideal resting place on a hot summer's day. It was a private property owned by a Major Dupont, who recently sold it to the- City, and the picturesque old house is now a temporary Hospital. A feature of this Park is a pretty little open-air^ stage with covered proscenium, wings and dressing-rooms, which I hope to find utilised next summer for performances in aid of Red Cross, or other war charities. The Gorge is to Victoria what Hampstead Heath is to London. It is a narrow arm of the harbour and can \>e reached by a nice little motor boat 52 from opposite the Empress Hotel, or by the B.C. Electric cars—Observation cars recommended. From 4 the Gorge bridge a natural reversible waterfall can be seen when the tide is suitable. Close by are the bathing clubs, for both sexes, and it is very amusing to watch the bathers. Some of the Victoria boys and girls seem almost to live in the water in the sum- iiner, and these Clubs can boast of many expert divers and swimmers. The B.C. Electric Railway Company owns the Park on the southern bank of the Victoria Arm, and provides bathing places and pleasure grounds with plenty of amusements. There is also a Japanese Tea Garden. The Park is maintained by the Company, but is open to the public and every now and then picnics are organized which afford City employees a good outing at a minimum of expense, as they can take their own provisions and enjoy them in the pleasure grounds and woodland walks beside the water. On the other side of the bridge is a small park owned by the City. 53 NOTE 6. Churches, Schools, Hospitals, Clubs and Societies. The Carnegie Public Library. Theatres and Music Halls. There is quite a number of Churches I in Victoria, of all classes and denominations. On the occupation of Vancouver Island by the Hudson's Bay Company the Rev. R. J. Stained was made their Episcopal Church chaplain, and in 1855 they built Christ Church for the Rev. E. Cridge, and in 1865 it was constituted the Cathedral of the diocese. It was afterwards destroyed by fire, and the present Anglican Cathedral was consecrated December 5th, 1872. It stands on high ground and is, noticeably, built entirely of wood. From the southern side there is a fine view of the domes of Parliament Buildings. With a Hudson's Bay "caravan" Father J. B. Bolduc came to this island in 1843, and celebrated the first 57 fl mass in Victoria. The first "Cathedral," which measured only 30 by 75, was opened on November 1st, 1858, and fulfilled its mission until 1886, when it became the chapel of the sisters of St. Ann. St. Andrew's, the present Roman Catholic Cathedral, erected by Bishop J. N. Lemmens in 1890, is a solidly built red-brick edifice. There are four large churches near together in Quadra, the 'Metropolitan Methodist,' built in 1890 of grey stone, the 'First Congregational,' the 'First' Presbyterian,' with an imposing square tower, arid 'St. John's', Anglican. A little further east are 'St. Barnabas' and the 'Emmanuel Baptist Church,' built of wood, and there are many others scattered about the City. There is about the same number of schools in Victoria now as there were scholars when Craigflower School was started. It was in 1853 that the Council resolved that two schools should be opened, one^ at Maple Point, Puget Sound, and another at Victoria, there being about 30 children at each of those places. Craigflower Schoolhouse 58 (see Note 3), of which I give a sketch, was the first to be built. It is only a few minutes walk from the Gorge bridge. An "old-timer" here tells me he was one of the Craigflower schoolboys, and that there was a mill opposite the school in those days which supplied the warships in Esquimalt harbour with "hard tack" and bread. Educational facilities are amply provided here, as elsewhere throughout Canada, and in the Victoria High, Public and Private Schools, there are now about 6,700 pupils. The present High School is a large square building, facing down Camosun Street, the former school, off Fort Street, being now the Girls' Central. At Mt. Tolmie are the Normal School, for training teachers; and the University School, a private school run on lines similar to English Public schools. At the present time it has about 100 pupils, but before the war it had 270. Many of the boys over 17 have entered the army and there are about 170 old boys and seven former masters now serving under the British flag. 59 There are two large and important hospitals. The Provincial Royal Jubilee Hospital and St. Joseph's. The corner-stone of the former was laid on April 23, 1889. A pretty little Memorial Chapel was donated to it by the late Mrs. Pemberton. St. Joseph's was opened in 1876, and in connection with it there is a school for training young women who desire to devote their lives to the care of the sick. Opposite this hospital is the "St. Ann's Academy for Girls," a large building standing in a beautiful old- fashioned garden. St. Joseph's has about 140 beds and the Jubilee 100. There are Clubs, Institutes, Friendly Societies, Associations and Masonic 'Lodges galore. (See Henderson's Directory). The Y.M.C.A. has important brick-built quarters, and the Y.W.C.A. occupies the building which was formerly the Union Club. Amongst the fairly numerous clubs, the "Union," "Pacific" and "Camosun" are social clubs, and the Rotary has a membership which 60 is confined to one representative of each profession and business. I hear it is doing good and useful work for the advancement of the interests of Victoria. The fair sex is well catered for by vthe "Alexandra" and the "Victoria" Ladies' Clubs. The Victoria Public Library, the gift of Andrew Carnegie, was erected in 1904. It has at present about 25,600 volumes. The "old-time" Mechanics Institute donated a number of books, amongst which are some interesting old editions. There are reference and reading rooms, and a supply of newspapers and periodicals; and a staff of ladies to manage it naturally means courteous and helpful attention to one's requirements. The hours are from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., and from 2 to 9 p.m. on Sundays, and this Library is, quite exceptionally I think, open on Christmas and New Year's days, a boon which has been greatly appreciated. On complying with a few simple formalities and regulations you can 61 take out two books at a time and a magazine, and special arrangements are made for students. The number of residents who avail themselves of the gratuitous advantages of this library shows how greatly the gift is appreciated. I may mention that Miss H. G. Stewart, the Librarian, is now, with a year's leave of absence, serving under the French Red Cross in France. The "Royal Victoria," "Pantages," "Dominion" and "Columbia" are the principal theatres and, with the exception of Pantages and the Princess, are devoted now to moving picture and photo-play shows. Pantages seats about 1,100, and the Royal Victoria over 1,700 people, and there I have seen every seat occupied, which I believe is not an unusual occurence. The old Victoria theatre is closed, or only used for special performances, such as the capital entertainment recently given in aid of the Red Cross funds by the Officers and crew of H.M.S. Lancaster, when it was at Esquimalt. 62 NOTE 7. Street Nomenclature. "What's in a name?" Shakespeare said, but he would not have said it in /Victoria, as even the names of the ^streets bear a historical or romantic association, for the Municipality has, very wisely, I think, perpetuated in the naming of many of the streets and avenues the memory of notable men and incidents intimately connected with the foundation of the Colony, and the early history of Vancouver Island. I confess, that on my arrival, I was obliged to plead forgetfulness, which may have seemed a cloak for ignorance, when a friend enquired if I knew why this is called Vancouver Island; but I might be pardoned for not knowing the association of such names as Quadra, Pandora, Gonzales, Tolmie, etc., with its history. Such associations, however, give rise to interesting thoughts and topics 65 of conversation, and recall forgotten incidents as we walk down the long streets that thread the City; so, in the prosperous times that we all hope will come to Vancouver Island as well as to other parts of the British Empire after the war, I would suggest that tablets, similar to the one at the corner of Bastion and Government Streets, should amplify the existing excellent system of street nomenclature. They would, I am sure, be appreciated by visitors and prove an incentive to an extended investigation of the interesting early history of Victoria. The tablet I mention is on the wall of a shop, an<d is seldom, I hear, noticed by visitors possibly, might I suggest, because^ k sadly needs polishing up. This is the inscription— 66 The Fort of 3?he Honorable Hudson's Bay Company occupied this site From A.D. 1843 to A.D. 1860 This tablet is placed on the N.E. corner to preserve an ancient landmark by the Historical Society of Victoria M.C.M.I. For the ready information of my readers I will give these "associations" in brief tabular form. Amphion, H.M.S., struck a rock en route to Victoria with the Governor-General on board. Battery, Bastion, iFort, after the Hudson's Bay Company's settlement, 1843. 67 Beacon Hill, named by Hudson's ' Bay Company officers from two beacons placed on the hill to mark a ledge known as the Buoy rock. B rough ton, Lieutenant William Robert, commanded the armed tender Chatham, which attended the Discovery. Cadboro, Discovery, Chatham, Fisgard, Cormorant, Pandora, after ships connected with the discovery and the early trading of the Island. The "Discovery" was George Vancouver's ship. Camosun, The Hudson's Bay Company's first fort built in 1843. Afterwards named Fort Albert, and then Victoria in 1846, in honour of Queen Victoria. Lameron, Hon. David, First judge, 1853. Collinson, William Tomkins, J.P., 1858. Cook, Captain James, R.N., discovered Nootka Sound, 1778. Eowichan, The Cowichins were a tribe of fierce Indians and were divided into small bands such as, puamichan, Chemainus, Nanaimo (She- ny-mo), and paanich. ISraigflower, after a farm settlement created by Kenneth Mackenzie, 1853, on "Victoria Arm." The Craigflower School Building (see sketch), is still "going strong," being built mostly of Douglas fir. 69 Dallas, Alexander Grant, 1857-61. Ellice, Rt. Hon. Edward, 1858-63. Finlayson, Roderick, 1843. Ross, Charles, 1843. Tolmie, William Fraser, Medical Officer and Chief Factor, 1856. Work, John. Officials of Hudson's Bay Company. Douglas, Sir James, K. C. B., 1850-64. Blanshard, (not Blanchard as on parts of Street). Richard, 1849. Moss, Morris, 1862. Trutch, Sir Joseph, 1871. Governors. Esquimalt, an adaptation of its Indian name, "Is-whoy-malth," and meaning "a place gradually shoaling." 70 wr Gonzales Point, named 1790, by Sub-Lieutenant Quimper, commanding the Spanish exploring sloop Princess Royal, after his first mate, Gonzales Lopez de Hara. |Helmcken, Dr. John Sebastian. Pemberton, Joseph Despard. ||Yates, James. Members of the First Legislative Council of Vancouver Island, 1856. Macquina, or Tsaxawasip, an Indian Chief. Menzies, Archibald, the naturalist of the Vancouver expedition. Quadra, Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Cuadra, Spanish Naval Officer, Governor of Nootka, 1792. Friend of Captain George Vancouver. 71 Richardson, James, of the Geological Survey of Canada, 1872. Sutlej, - H.M.S. Flagship on this Station, 1863-6. Arrived at Esquimau:, June 12, 1863. Tillicum, (Tilikum), the Indian word for friend, also relations, people, tribe. Vancouver, Captain George, 1792-94, after whom "Vancouver's Island" was named. Born 1758. Died 1798. Yale, a Hudson's Bay Company's Fort or Post on the Fraser River. There is an excellent system of indicating the names of the streets. At every corner you find on the pavement or cemented sidewalk in bold white letters on a blue ground the names of 72 the street you are in and the one intersecting it, and they are easily seen. [With up-to-date brevity the words ["Street," "Avenue," etc., are usually [omitted and they are called "Fort," "'View," etc. only, though Government Street generally gets its full title, except upon its pavements. Vancouver is one of the largest and most effective thoroughfares. It commences at the Lawn Bowling and Al- i>ion Cricket Club's grounds in Beacon Hill Park, and ends—well, the less said about its ending the better, but it is a worthy rival of Cook in its eccentricities. There are still a few wooden plank sidewalks here and there in the City which serve as a reminder of old times, but probably their days are numbered. 73 NOTE 8. Living in Victoria. "Is JUfe worth living?" may I think be answered in the affirmative in Victoria regardless of the oft-quoted reply, "That depends upon the liver." It must1 be considered as primarily a residential City and though great strides are being made, even in War-time, ^towards a big Industrial expansion, every effort is also made to preserve and increase its attractions and make it as "home-like" as possible to English visitors. It prides itself on being English in its character, as evidenced by the frequently used description "A bit of old England." At any rate it is obvious to the most casual observer that the Municipality lays itself out to make the City as clean and healthy— and, last but not least, as beautiful as is humanly possible, and generally speaking the houses have been and are being built in good taste and are none the worse for the prevailing bungalow 75 w style of architecture. Residents seem to vie with each other in friendly rivalry in the care and effective cultivation of their gardens, and they evidence a desire to help in every way possible to beautify their City, of which they are so justly proud. Some few of the main thoroughfares to its suburbs are unfinished and somewhat difficult to keep track with, for as a resident described them to me, they "commence in the sea, develop into a farm-waggon road and end in a squirrel-run." I fancy he must have been alluding to Cook Street. But as regards the completed portions no fault—indeed only praise— can be found for them. One finds broad streets and avenues in French and other cities, but somehow they are "different" in Victoria, and to its advantage I think. As a general rule the roadways are wide and the cemented side-walks about six feet wide, with broad, well trimmed grass borders on which in many cases, as Vancouver Street, avenues of trees are already showing well. The width of such 76 thoroughfares as Cook, Pandora, Fort and Vancouver, allows the sunshine full play and combined with the always bright appearance of the well-kept gardens adds greatly to the City's attractions. I feared to find here the dreadful many storied buildings that so disfigure Vancouver, New York and other ^American cities, but am relieved to hear that a wise law ordains that no building may be of more than ten stories and that is more than enough to my way of thinking. Nowhere have I seen such a quaint admixture of houses. In some of even the most fashionable and prettiest streets and avenues large and handsome residences are found adjoining queer little wooden structures—almost reminiscent of the Hudson's Bay early settlements. The streets are well lighted by Electric Light Standards of five lamps each, and, so far, there has been no war-need to darken them! Oak Bay, which very agreeably shows how it got its name, is the 77 largest residential suburb and may still be said^—.without offence I hope—to be very much "in the making," but the Canadian Bank of Commerce and the Merchants Bank have branches there, which signifiy what it is expected to be in "the coming by and bye." The houses are mostly of the artistic bungalow type, and there is a pretty and deservedly popular hotel. There is house and hotel accommodation in the Victoria City area to suit all tastes and pockets, and in the outlying districts also there are excellent small hotels and plenty of "Apartment Houses" or flats. The Empress, owned and managed by the Canadian Pacific Railway Company, is of course the premier hotel and as luxurious and up-to-date as can be desired, and of the others, the Strathcona and Dominion seem to take next rank in public favour. The afternoon teas in the Palm room of the Empress Hotel are a very pleasant feature of social life in Victoria, and afford an excellent way of entertaining 78 one's friends, as any visitors or residents are welcomed, and even in Wartime there is a small but excellent orchestra to add greatly to their enjoyment. There is also a fine ballroom in which both small dances and balls are frequently given. Small furnished houses ar$ letting well even now, and the system of "Housekeeping Rooms" is admirably exploited here and they are very popular. Of course with owners and tenants away at the War fronts there are many houses to be let or sold, but I 4 have found the majority and the most attractive are at corners, where double frontage means double taxes for "Local Improvements," drainage, etc. a drawback which chills the ardour of many a would-be purchaser. However such drawbacks^ are only temporary and those who have the courage to purchase now will probably be handsomely rewarded hereafter. The re-occupation, sale and renting of houses after the war will certainly not be hampered by lack of enterprising 79 J "Real Estate Agents," as their name is Legion, the result no doubt of the Building boom of 1913-14. There is no doubt that the reaction after this boom which was so closely followed by the war, hit land and house owners very hard indeed, but it is to be hoped that more favorable and prosperous conditions may soon prevail and that many more English families will be attracted to Victoria by the peaceful life amidst beautiful surroundings that is to be found here, and meantime "Courage, Perseverance and Hopefulness" may well be a motto for this City as for the rest of the civilized world. I was struck by a remark a lady made in speaking of life in Victoria, that "people like you here for what you are and not for what you have," and I can confidently state from even my short acquaintance with the City that kindness and courtesy, without effusive geniality, are the prevailing characteristics of its citizens. 80 The cost of living may be said to be reasonably low and for Bohemian and simple tastes exceedingly so. There are numerous restaurants, cafes and shops where a "Merchants' Lunch" can be got—a substantial meal, for 25 cents, of good quality and nicely served. Salmon is 10 to 15 cents a pound, and most fish cheap and good. Under existing war conditions prices of most household commodities are somewhat erratic and exceptional, so it would obviously be of little use to quote them here, but chemicals certainly are dear, being subject to a heavy duty. Here is a list given me of sports and pastimes that can be enjoyed in or around Victoria, and it seems a very comprehensive one: "Cricket, tennis, football, rifle range shooting, hockey, lacrosse, baseball, bowls, motor-boating, yachting, canoeing, bicycling, riding, sea-bathing and sailing." Golf is probably omitted because the Links are at Oak Bay, outside the City area, but there are also golf links at Col- 81 wood and Macaulay Plains. Shooting is not mentioned, possibly because they "go hunting" out here not shooting—you have to "hunt your birds!"—but I may add fishing and ice- rinking and then probably not complete the list. »2 NOTE 9. The Industries of Victoria. There is "a feeling of expansion" in the air here just now which makes one think that the present industries are nothing now to what they will be if all the plans and suggestions that have been, and are being made, are carried out. And as evidence that even in this war-time the Industrial expansion of the City is being energetically fostered I should mention the "Home Products Exhibition" which, inaugurated by the Victoria and Island Development Association, was recently held in the Hudson's Bay building with deserved success, and showed that there is a growing determination that this Island shall manufacture and supply most of its own needs, and those for a large export trade as well. As to" present Industries I cannot do better than quote a list given in one of . the numerous pamphlets: "Flour and rice mills, fruit preserving, iron foun- 83 J dries and machine shops, ship building and lumber mills, furniture, shoe and trunk factories. There is a big outfitting business done with miners." As regards shipbuilding, from the garden in front of the Parliament Buildings can now be seen the framework of a schooner, one of three which are being built by the "Cameron-Genoa Mills Shipbuilders, Limited," and I see in the Daily Colonist a picture of a five- masted schooner, the Inca, which is shipping 1,400,000 feet of B.C. lumber from the Cameron Lumber Mills, but at the present time there would seem to be need for the construction of many such wooden ships for the Island's trade. Victoria is a port of call for the steamers of the Empress and other lines trading to Asia, Australia, the Straits Settlements, China, Japan and New Zealand, and the new Breakwater and Piers now in course of construction at Ogden Point, and not very far from completion, should undoubtedly prove a great addition to the im- 84 _J portance and prosperity of Victoria. The Break-water and parapets are being built by Sir John Jackson, Limited, and the piers by Grant Smith and McDonald, and it is interesting to know that the materials used have been obtained within easy reach of Victoria and that the granite blocks were quarried on Vancouver Island. Fuller statistics as to existing and needed industries can be obtained from The Victoria and Island Development Association, but I am told that Tailor-made suits of clothes come now almost entirely from America and it seems a pity that they should not be made here. By the way, I would suggest that this energetic Association should endeavour to make the advantages and charms of Victoria, and the Island generally, more widely known in England than they are—or were when I was there and was making enquiries about the colony—as it seems highly probable that there will be a consider- 85 able emigration from the old Country after the war. Some important railway systems serve Victoria, the Canadian Pacific by its magnificent steamers and the Grand Trunk Pacific by a good Ferryboat service, both having their wharves in the inner harbour. The Great Northern has a line from Victoria to Sidney and the Canadian Northern has already many miles graded. The Esquimalt and Nanaimo Railway was bought by the C.P.R. ai*d is worked by that company. It runs to Port Alberni and has a branch to Comox. Victoria has undoubtedly some hard times to go through in the near future and it is none too soon to gather up the energy on which Colonials pride themselves and to concentrate it on the development of new industries, to be rfeady for the reconstructions and new organizations that must follow this destructive wan I do not think that I can make a better ending to this Note than by quot- ing a remark recently made at Montreal by the Venerable Archdeacon Cody, of Toronto, to Anglican Delegates: "The man who cannot believe in the future development of this country has no vision." 67 NOTE 10. Esquimalt. Esquimalt deserves a separate note as it is, and will be, a very important factor in the prosperity of the Capital City, which by the way it should itself have been in the opinion of some of the old- time explorers, "as affording anchorage and protection for ships of any tonnage." In a report by James Douglas, 1842, the nanie is spelt, Is-whoy-malth, the Indian meaning being "a place gradually shoaling." It is about four miles from Victoria, but is connected by a bridge over, the Victoria Arm of the inner harbour, and there is a good street-car service as well as the Esquimalt and Nanaimo Railway. It has a pretty residential section, but its chief attractions are the Naval Dockyard and the very fine harbour. The road bounding the Woods, which I shall mention later, is called "The Admiral's Road," and many naval men have resi- 91 dences near the Docks. British warships anchor in or near the Harbour, and more are likely to come in the future I expect. Buildings for naval hospital purposes after the Russian war were erected here in 1855, and the naval yard was established in 1864. The graving dock was opened July 20, 1887, H.M.S. Cormorant being the first ship to enter. Yarrows Ltd., associated with the well-known firm, Yarrows & Co., of Glasgow, Engineers and Shipbuilders, have their repair slips and shops in the Harbour, and at the present time much repair work is in progress, but a river boat is under construction, another being just completed for shipment to the Far East. Adjoining is the site of the proposed new Government Dry Dock which would be capable of handling the largest ships. Some day, the sooner the better, shipbuilding on a much larger scale is expected to be carried on in Esquimalt/ Harbour. 92 The principal industry apart from Naval work is the Empire Canneries, where the salmon are prepared for market. Great "Scowloads" of the silvery fish come down from the traps and are fed into the jaws of the "Iron Chink," and by various processes at last reach the stage of "Canned Salmon" as commonly known in the markets of the world. Salmon canning commenced in 1874. At the upper end of Esquimalt Harbour, near Parson's Bridge, are large oyster beds where the delicious bivalves, after their long journey frdm the Atlantic Ocean, are placed to fatten till ready for the market. Probably owing to the temperature of the water being too low the oyster spat does not mature in these waters, hence the necessity of importing the young oysters. Several of the old Sealing schooners may be seen at anchor in a quiet bay near the Indian Reserve, their days of usefulness having, alas! departed. There is a story to be told some day of treaties and other causes of their inac- 93 4 tivity. But these boats afford mute evidence of a vanished industry. A friend took me for a delightful walk through the woods, radiant with autumn tints, between the Esquimalt Road and Craigflower Roads, and told me many interesting stories about the place. He showed me some cairns and potholes, evidencing the action of glaciers over the very rocky ground that we traversed on our way to the Indian Reserve. The Indians with their murders and intertribal massacres provided plenty of excitements in the early days. They are now peaceful inhabitants of the reserves set apart for them, which they obtained in addition to—to them —large grants of money when their lands by the water were required by the Government. With the cash they erected quite modern bungalows with gardens—in the Victoria style—in which as we passed them we heard the strains of a gramaphone and saw a sewing machine in use. In one verandah we noticed a fine baby boy being dandled by his mother, and he actively 94 responded to our hand-waving as long as we were in sight. Altogether our visit to the Reserve impressed us very much as we thought of the reception we might and most probably should have had in the "Fort" days, and realised that our scalps were now quite safe. In these woods is the old Naval cemetery and the headstones bear tributes from comrades to Officers and men of the British fleet who, from accident or other causes found / in this peaceful and secluded spot a last resting-place after their voyages had ceased. The dates and names of the various ships form an interesting, even if only partial, record of the ships that had used this station since it was established by the Admiralty. Nearly every year, in July, the Island Indians have canoe races at the Gorge. Their canoes are very long, hollowed out of a single tree. Some are "manned" by women, and my friend told me he had seen one good lady who was so big and heavy that the united 95 efforts of the rest of the crew failed to get her back into the canoe when it upset, so she was towed ignominiously to land. 96 _l NOTE 11. The City Hall, Public Market, Fire Brigade, Cemeteries. Some General Information. The City Hall, in Douglas Street, is a large red-brick building for the offices of the Mayor, the City Clerk and the Municipality. Adjoining it is the Chief Police Station, and opposite are the large white premises of the Hudson's Bay Company, not yet opened. I have not seen English Markets lately, but I should imagine that Victoria will compare favorably with any one of them. There is not perhaps the same entertaining charm of a French market, with the vivacious chatter and good humoured bargaining, so the quiet and steady buying and selling here make a strong contrast. It is a substantial building and the stalls are conveniently arranged and make a good show. 97 §1 l Adjoining the Public Market is the principal Fire Station. There are eight stations and seventy-three firemen, whose uniforms differ from the English in the helmets being made of black lacquered leather, which of course have not the effective appearance of the English bright metal ones, but are said to be more serviceable and less affected by heat. Though mostly motors there are a few three-horse fire escapes. Some of the ladders are raised by steam compressors, which by turning a wheel a child could work, others by hydraulic and electrical appliances. The ladders are 65 and 75 feet, and with hook ladder connections suffice for the highest buildings here which are fortunately limited to ten stories, or a height of about 120 feet, but are seldom more than seven to nine stories and are fitted with outside iron escape staircases. The white fire engines are very large and imposing. Between Mears and Courtney streets, facing Quadra, is the old-time Burial ground which has been transformed 98 into a veritable little oasis in the heart of the City, for with its (of course) trim and verdant grass intersected by paths with seats, it forms a peaceful and shady resting-place in the summer after a "Sun-bath" in Quadra. The headstones have been relegated to the back part of the ground, but a few of the monuments and tombstones are allowed to remain, notably one "Erected by the Admiral, Captain, Officers and Ship's Company of H.M.S. Sutlej, to the memory of their deceased shipmates," and tombs of Chief Factors of the Hudson's Bay Company, John Work and Charles Dodd, and of David Cameron, Chief Justice, and J. S. Helmcken. There is a very large and well-kept Cemetery at Ross Bay, sloping down to Dallas Road and the sea. Victoria has two good daily papers, The Daily Colonist (morning except Monday), and The Victoria Daily Times (afternoon except Sunday), 5 cents each. War telegrams and any special news are posted up in the win- dows of both offices. The Colonist was started as early as 1858, has preserved a good reputation and is deservedly popular. The Times started in 1884. Both have forcibly shown their political bias in the recent elections but are equally loyal to the interests of Victoria, and no fault can be found with their supply of general and local news. It is only natural that the C.P.R., with its large interests in Victoria and the Island, should exercise great influence in the City, which is undoubtedly indebted to it for many of its attractions apart from Nature's. The Empress Hotel which it built at a cost of over a million dollars is a magnificent building replete with every up-to- date comfort and convenience. As the Company is, or was said to own V/2 million acres of land on the Island, it seems certain that future developments and improvements will have this powerful corporation's unstinted support. The B. C. Electric Railway Company provides an excellent service of 100 street cars which, starting mostly from Yates Street, bring outlying parts of the city into easy reach of the business and shopping centres. The cars are commodious and well-lighted and run at short intervals to Burnside, Clover- dale, Esquimalt, Foul Bay, the Gorge, Hillside, Mt. Tolmie, Oak Bay, Fern- wood, Uplands and Willows. And the Interurban Railway to Deep Bay (23 miles) brings the important and beautiful Saanich district into touch with the Capital City. There is an excellent system of "Jitneys" (motor cars), which for five cents, the same price as the street cars, will take you quickly and comfortably to various quarters of the town as indicated by their placards. Victoria makes ideal headquarters for motorists, who must almost think that the city has been paved for their individual comfort as they glide along their way to the great Island Highway, and the famous Malahat Drive. Robinson Crusoe had not a monopoly of the delights of exploring an Island, and 101 many visitors bring their cars, or hire them here, and enjoy an almost unique experience. Motorists should on no account omit to take the wonderful and delightful drive up the Island to Al- berni, and they should avail themselves of the freely given advice and assistance of the Victoria and Island Development Association in order that they may not miss any special points of interest on their journey. The welcome they will get everywhere en route will, I expect, resemble that extended by the hosts of the good old English Inns, which made each guest feel he was the one person to be welcomed, cared for and considered. 102 NOTE 12. Books About Victoria. It may be of use to some of my readers who are of an enquiring turn of mind to know of the books that I have found helpful in compiling these notes, as most of them, if not all, can be found in the Provincial Library here, so I will give their titles and authors. British Columbia, by E. O. S. Scholefield.—Illustrated. History of British Columbia, by H. H. Bancroft. Vancouver's Discovery of Puget Sound, by- Edmond S. Meany.—Illustrated. History of British Columbia, by Alex. Begg.—Illustrated. Reminiscences of Old Victoria, by Edgar Fawcett. British Columbia Place Names, by John T. Walbran. - - 103 f The Year Book of British Columbia, by R. E. Gosnell. British Columbia and Vancouver Island, by R. C. Mayne, R.N., F.R.G.S. For those who like Folklore and Legends there is a fascinating little illustrated book, "History and Folklore of the Cowichan Indians." 104 Where to Go for What You Want in Victoria Through Train Service between Victoria, Shawnigan Lake, Cowichan Lake, Nanaimo, Courtenay, Cameron Lake and Port Alberni. Splendid fishing and shooting. For information apply L. D. CHETHAM Dist. Pass. Agent Victoria, B. C. VICTORIA, B.C. The Finest Residential City in Canada Unequalled temperate climate; magnificent scenery; excellent educational facilities; plentiful supply of pure soft water; lowest death rate on the American continent; outdoor sports every month in the year. For full information about Victoria, and also as to the natural resources of Vancouver Island and opportunities for settlers and new residents, write VICTORIA AND ISLAND DEVELOPMENT ASSOCIATION Victoria, B. C. The B. G. E. Saanieh Interurban When you are in Victoria take a trip over the Saanieh Interurban Railway. It is a delightful run through 23 miles of some of the most picturesque scenery on the Island. Brentwood Bay, the Dominion Government Observatory, on Little Saanieh Mountain, the Experimental Farm at Bazan Bay, and that delightful little seaside resort—Deep Bay, are all well worth a visit. Station and Waiting Room, Douglas Street (Opposite City Hall). Tel. 1969 Full information from the Publicity Dept., Telephone 2626. BRITISH COLUMBIA ELECTRIC RAILWAY .COMPANY, LTD. STATIONERS AND BOOKSELLERS T. N. HIBBEN & CO. (Established 1858) Booksellers and Stationers Victoria, B. C. Maps, Guide and View Books, Charts and many useful publications for tourists VICTORIA BOOK & STATIONERY GO. LTD. Best Place in B. C. for New Books. Photo Supplies, Developing and Printing 1002 Government St. Victoria, B.C. Costs little with a Fairbanks - Morse outfit. Gives you the brightest, healthiest, most convenient light known. Our low-voltage outfit is absolutely safe, easy to install and care for. Engine can be used for other farm machinery or water supply. Battery supplies cur* rent when engine is not running. MISS. E. EXHAM PUBLIC STENOGRAPHER 202 Central Building View Street Phone 2632 AUTOS, GARAGES AND TRANSFERS "Seeing Victoria" in the G or C, Green Tally•Hos THE C. & C. TALLY-HOS Operate the Largest and Best Appointed Sight-Seeing Tours by Motors Taking in the , Business Section, China Town, Residential District, Oak Bay, Marine Drive and Beacon Hill i Park. Our Sight-Seeing Cars Ride Like Touring Cars and Are Deeply Upholstered They meet ,all Boats and get you back in time for Outgoing Boat Our motto: "Safety and Service" CAMERON & CALDWELL, Proprietors 824 Johnson Street Phone 693 and 185 Begg Motor Co., Ltd. Automobile Service and Storage OPEN DAY AND NIGHT Phone 2058 Entrances to' Garage 937 View Street and 936 Fort Street J DRUGGIST ASK YOUR DOCTOR TO SEND YOUR PRESCRIPTIONS TO SHOTBOLT'S Pioneer Drug Store (Established 1862) FIRST QUALITY GOODS AND EXPERT SERVICE Kodaks, Films and Photo Supplies, Developing and Printing 589 Johnston Street Phone 56 and 32460 i (One Store Below Government) OPTICIAN Your Optical Wants Can Be Filled Here as Quickly and Accurately as in New York City Optician n&yxy Makers of Crookes, Kryptok, and All Compound Lenses CONSULT OUR OPTOMETRISTS About Your Eyes 622 View Street, Victoria Phone 2259 For new and exclusive designs in Women's Day and Evening Apparel, Dress Goods, Silks and Various Dress Accessories A showing of unusual interest to all who value distinction in dress, combined with reasonable prices. Sayward Building Douglas Street \f\njr(XY*\r\ As you know is famous YXtlUlia for its CHOCOLATES We heartily recommend STEVENSON'S "HOMADE" Chocolates to you, because they are different from any you have ever tried before. Prices, per lb 75c, $1.00 and $1.25 UiOCOLATES (Indies j 2feadStore>-725YATESSTREET. Branch: 1119 Douglas Phones 2401 and 3691 Telephone 21 Civil and Military P. M. LINKLATER Fine Tailoring Importer of High Grade Woollens 1120 Broad Street Victoria, B. C. Photographic Supplies Professional & Amateur Albert H. Maynard (Established 1862) EVERYTHING PHOTOGRAPHIC Phone 5235 715 Pandora Street Victoria, B.C. Trout Fishing For Information and Tackle for all kinds of fishing, go to— FOX'S 1239 BROAD STREET ENGLISH CLOTHING for MEN, YOUNG MEN a BOYS We are Direct Importers and carry at all seasons complete stocks of Outer and Under-Garments. Burberry Coats (for which we are sole agents), Sport Suits, Flannels, Tweed Hats and Caps, Neglige Shirts, everything for Golfers and Sportsmen. Dents' Gloves, the largest stock in B. C. Jaeger and Other British Makes of Underwear, Hosiery, Travelling Rugs, Dressing Gowns, etc. Trunks and Bags, in Imported and Domestic makes. Umbrellas and Canes, in great variety. W. & J. WILSON (Established 1862) 1217-1221 Government Street and Trounce Ave.,i VICTORIA, B. C. Souvenirs of Victoria Water Color Paintings of Local Scenery WESTERN ART STUDIO 401 Union Bank Building, View Street Telephone 2291L Complete Installations Phones 916 and for the city 5323L. for the country home T. L. BOYDEN, m.i.e.e. ELECTRICAL ENGINEER Supplies The Centre Electric Broad and View Streets SAM M. SCOTT Boys' Clothing Exclusively Highland Costumes, Sailor Suits, Glengarry Caps, Man-o-War Caps 736 YATES STREET BOOT & SHOE EMPORIUM Gilbert D, Christie High Grade Footwear for Men, Women & Children 1231 GOVERNMENT ST. VICTORIA, B. C. P. O. Box 353 Phone 131 Do You Keep Poultry? If So, READ POULTRY, PIGEONS & PETSTOCK X$e "P.P.P." Journal of the West Write for Sample Copy Edited by W. Miller Higgs 521 Yates St. Phone 6 Pichon c£? Lenf esty GUNSMITHS Guns, Ammunition, Fishing Tackle, Cutlery and AH Kinds of Sporting Goods. Gun Repairing in All Its,Branches 567 JOHNSON STREET VICTORIA, B. C. TELEPHONE 3052 THE B.C. WINE CO. LTD. Family Wine and Spirit Merchants 1216 DOUGLAS STREET VICTORIA, B. C. 534 PENDER STREET VANCOUVER, B. C. Canadian Red Cross Society HEADQUARTERS Temple Building,. Fort Street Visitors Cordially Welcomed and Donations Gratefully Received " The Pleasure of Travel is fully realized by travelling on the lines of the Canadian Pacific Railway The World's Greatest Highway Twenty-four Hours in the Canadian Pacific Rockies Through Transcontinental Trains Daily Electric Lighted Sleepers and Compartment Observation Cars Various Routes Liberal Stopovers For full particulars and reservations apply to any C.P.R. Agent H. W. Brodie Gen. Pass Agent Vancouver, B.C. [HOI m
Other copies : http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/61645581 Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection
Books
III-1289
English
Vancouver : University of British Columbia Library
[Victoria] : Victoria Printing and Publishing Company
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Original Format: University of British Columbia. Library. Rare Books and Special Collections. FC3846.3 .E43 1917
Victoria (B.C.)
All about Victoria, British Columbia
Text