CONTENTdm
British Columbia Historical Books Collection
Cook, James, 1728-1779
Young, George, 1777-1848
"'Whitby, Printed by Horne and Richardson': P.466. 'Subscribers': PP[467]-472. '... An excellent little life of Cook, superior both in accuracy and in personal details to that of Kippis. Contains some very valuable bibliographical material':- Holmes. Young was pastor of the United Associate Presbyterian Congregation, Whitby, 1806-1848, and published theological writings and works relating to Yorkshire, ref. D.N.B."-- Strathern, G. M., & Edwards, M. H. (1970). Navigations, traffiques & discoveries, 1774-1848: A guide to publications relating to the area now British Columbia. Victoria, BC: University of Victoria, p. 330-331.
xii, 472 pages : illustrations, advertisements ; 18 cm
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THE LIFE AND VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, Drawn up from his Journals, and other authentic documents; and comprising much original information: By the Rev. GEORGE YOUNG, A.M., Corresponding Member of the Wernerian Natural History Society, and of the Northern Institution; Secretary to the Whitby Literary and Philosophical Society; and Honorary Member of the Literary and Philosophical Societies of Yorkshire, Hull, Newcastle, Leeds, &c. ILLUSTRATED WITH SEVERAL ENGRAVINGS. i LONDON: WHITTAKER, TREACHER, & Co. OLIPHANT AND SON, EDINBURGH; AND M'LEOD,*ltASGOW. 1836. ^j|| SIRE, As the first Life of Captain Cook was dedicated to Your Majesty's Royal Father, the illustrious Patron of Navigation and Science, it is fit that this new history of that renowned Seaman, should be dedicated to a Sovereign, who has known by experience the duties and enjoyments, the hardships and perils, of a seafaring life; who is feelingly alive to whatever concerns the welfare of the British Navy, ready to crown with distinction the eminent Commanders of the present day, and to honour the memory of former Navigators, whose names shine bright in the annals of their country. In availing myself of Your Majesty's gracious permission to dedicate this work to my revered and beloved Sovereign, I may be allowed to express a hope, that the brilliant example of heroism, patience, loyalty, patriotism, and benevolence, which it exhibits, may prove useful to various classes of Your Majesty's subjects, especially that class to whom Your Majesty's name must be peculiarly dear. That the naval, commercial, and general interests of Your Majesty's Empire may continue to flourish ; and that the reign of Your Majesty may be long, peaceful, and glorious, is the ardent wish of Your Majesty's most devoted servant, and loyal subject, GEORGE YOUNG. Whitby, Dec. 1st, 1835. PREFACE. The Life of Captain Cook, by Dr. Kippis, was published in 1788, four years after the appearance of his last Voyage to the Pacific; and although several biographical sketches have since been produced, no other respectable Life of Cook has issued from the press. During the 48 years that have intervened, materials for an improved history of the great navigator have been accumulating. Much light has been thrown on his discoveries, by the labours of succeeding voyagers, and the progress of events; important effects have resulted from his voyages; and not a few particulars of his history, unknown to Dr. Kippis, have transpired. A new Life of Cook, embodying the substance of this additional information with what is already published, has therefore been long required. A work of this description has for some years been contemplated by the author, whose attention was drawn to the subject, by an early predilection for this renowned mariner, and the pleasure experienced in preparing a sketch of his life, for the biographical department of the History of Whitby and its Vicinity; but especially by the enjoyment of facilities for obtaining an intimate acquaintance with his history, during a residence of thirty years near the spot where he was born, and amidst the scenes where he passed his childhood and youth. Several original anecdotes, unpublished letters, and other valuable materials for history, have been procured, through intercourse with his relations, friends, and acquaintance, including one or two surviving school companions. w VI PREFACE. As the most interesting portion of the life of Cook was spent in his three successive voyages of discovery, it is chiefly from the published narratives of these voyages that his biographer must draw materials. At the same time, the author has availed himself of those illustrations of his character and discoveries, which have been furnished by cotemporary publications, and the journals of succeeding navigators | as well as by the writings of Missionaries, and others, who have resided for years in the countries which he discovered. A much more extensive use of such helps was at one time intended, and the value of the present wtfrk might have been greatly enhanced, by introducing more copious illustrations from Forster, Vancouver, Turnbull, Ellis, Beechey, and others. But the Voyages of Cook himself comprise so much interesting matter, that such additions could not hare been made, without condensing that matter too closely, or extending the work beyond its proposed limits. The abridged view of Cook's voyages and "discoveries here given, is not copied from Kippis, tent drawn up from the original narratives, with the assistance derived from other sources referred to. This volume is, therefore, not a mere abridgment, or compilation; but an original work, the result of much labour, and patient investigation. In a composition of this nature, great care is necessary, to exhibit, a fah\ perspicuous, and interesting view of successive transactions and events; with a judicious selection of details and illustrations, and an accurate statement of dates, localities, and other particulars: and, notwithstanding the pains bestowed on this work, the intelligent reader may PREFACE. Vll detect various blemishes. In a field so extensive, and amidst objects so multitudinous, it is difficult to give every thing its proper place, and its proportionate share of attention. A prominent^ position may have been assigned to inferior topics, while others more worthy of notice are placed in the back ground; and matters comparatively trivial are perhaps amply set forth, while subjects of greater moment are unreasonably compressed, or altogether thrust out. The author has not, in every instance, preserved as he intended, a uniformity in the spelling of S. Sea names and words. Inaccuracies of this kind are, however, excusable, as the names are spelled differently in the different voyages ; and, having then no written language as a guide, each navigator adopted an orthography of his own. Thus, the name Tamehameha is written by Sam well, Ka-mea-mea; by Vancouver, Tamaah- maah; by Turnbull, Tamahama; while, in Cook's last voyage, it is Maiha-maiha: and hence, Capt. Beechey, not adverting to this, erroneously states, that this chief " is not mentioned in the official account of Cook's voyage." Yet, whatever faults may be discerned by a critical eye, in this account of the life and voyages of Cook, the author flatters himself, that it will be found both ample and interesting. Care has been taken, to preserve as nearly as possible in all their freshness, those graphic delineations of nature and of man, which abound in the original narratives; and to give a becoming prominence to those passages which best display the grand features of our navigator's character, and to those also which convey the most important moral lessons. In this way, it is hoped, the work is calculated to profit, PREFACE. as well as to please: for, while the surprising adventures and singular discoveries of our hero, can scarcely fail to give delight; the exhibitions of his conduct, and the occurrences of his life, are fraught with valuable instructions, which it is the duty of his historian to point out. It would have been gratifying, to have dwelt longer on the happy results of his voyages, in the extension of commerce, science, civilization, and religion; but it was necessary to confine the book within certain bounds, to adapt it for general circulation; especially among seamen, for whose use it is peculiarly designed. With this view, it does not come forth in the shape of a bulky tome, but assumes the form of a neat pocket volume, to be a suitable companion in voyages and travels. In conclusion, the author would express his gratitude to his respected friends, who have liberally patronized and promoted this undertaking. In every quarter where he has had occasion to apply for information or assistance, he has received the most polite attentions: and as his obligations are too numerous to be acknowledged in detail, he entreats his correspondents and friends, who have furnished him with books, extracts, letters, registers, inscriptions, and oral information, to accept this general acknowledgment of their esteemed services. May the work which they have so kindly encouraged, afford them all the entertainment which they have expected; and may it prove an incitement to virtue and piety, to benevolence and temperance, to bold enterprise and patient continuance in well doing; to eVery thing, in short, that constitutes genuine goodness, and true greatness! CONTENTS. Page. CHAPTER I. Birth, Parentage, and early Employments of Cook, to his entering the Navy .. .. .. .. 1 CHAPTER II. Cook volunteers into the Navy—is promoted—serves at Quebec, and Newfoundland.—Returns home, and marries—is appointed Marine Surveyor of Newfoundland, &c. His Charts. Mistake of Chalmers .. .. 9 CHAPTER III. Cook appointed to conduct the Voyage to the S. Sea, for observing the Transit of Venus. Officers and Scientific Gentlemen. Arrival at Madeira,—Rio Janeiro—Terra del Fuego—Pacific Ocean—Otaheite .. .. 17 CHAPTER IV. Friendly intercourse and trade with theTahitians. Fort and observatory erected. Musket stolen—native shot. Tootahah—Oberea. Transit of Venus. Manners of the natives. Tupia and his boy taken on board. Departure from Otaheite .... .. ..33 CHAPTER V. Huaheine visited—Ulietea—Otaha—Bolabola. Departure from the Society Islands, Oheteroa discovered. Contet seen .. .. .. .. 49 CHAPTER VI. New Zealand discovered. Some natives killed: others taken and kindly treated. Various capes and bays observed. Bay of Islands. Queen Charlotte's Sound. The natives cannibals. Cook's Straits. The islands circumnavigated. Memorials left. Everett's verses.. 56 CHAPTER VII. New S. Wales discovered, and the coast traced. Botany Bay. Thirsty Sound. The Endeavour strikes on a rock; is got off, and repaired. Transactions at Endeavour River 76 CHAPTER VIII. Perils of the voyage—Providential Channel. Possession Island—Endeavour Straits. New Guinea—Savu. Ba- tavia. Great sickness and death there, and on the passage to the Cape. Voyage home . .. ..95 CONTENTS. Page. CHAPTER IX. Cook received with much honour. His letters to Mr. Walker. Narrative of the voyage. Visit to Ayton and Whitby. New expedition. Resolution and Adventure. Instructions for the Second Voyage CHAPTER X. Arrival at Madeira—St. J ago—Cape of Good Hope. Antarctic Seas. Icebergs- Ships parted. Aurora australis. Dusky Bay. Tha ships meet in Q. Charlotte's Sound CHAPTER XI. Animals and Vegetables left at New Zealand. Voyage to the S. and E.—Islands discovered. Otaheite. Oaiti- piha. King Waheatuak. Matavai. King Otoo. Hua- heine. King Oree—Omai. Ulietea—Oreo, Oedidee.. CHAPTER XII. Hervey's Island discovered. Friendly Isles. Services of Attago. Stupid Areeke. Passage to New J&eaiaadV Ships finally parted. Q. Charlot&eJs Sound. Cannibalism. Voyage towards toe S. Pole. Return northward. The Captain's plans: his sickness and recovery CHAPTER XIII. Easter Island.—Marquesas. Other islands visited. Otaheite : improved state of the island: large fleet. Transactions at Otaheite. Population. Huaheine: Oree—- thefts—dramatic representations. Ulietea: friendship of Q*es: parting with him, and with Oedidee .. CHAPTER XIV. Small islands met with. Savage Island. Annamooka. New Hebrides :—M allicollo—Erromango. Transactions at Ta»j&ft$ its Volcano, &c. Erronan—Annatom—Tierra del Espiritu Santo* of Quiros. Bougainville's Passage CHAPTER XV. New Caledonia. Incidents there. Coast explored. Dangers incurred. Norfolk Isle. Q. Charlotte's Sound. Hoffible fate of a boat's crew, belonging to the Ad- Sequel of the Adventure's Voyage. .. CHAPTER XVI. Voyage to Terra del Fuego. Christmas Sound. Cape Horn. Success Bay. New Year's Harbour and Isles, in Staten l*ncU S. Georgia, discovered. Sandwich Land. Southern Thule. Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope—St Hdeaa—Ascension—Fernando, <te N^onha —Fayal. Arrival in England 243 109 125 140 157 172 196 220 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVII. Page. Interest felt in Co#lf*s arrival. Honours conferred on him. New Va^g^^projected. Letters to Mr. Walker. Notices of l^jftiai—his trip to Ifotk, Scarborough— Mulgrave, &c. Cook'® Father. Lord Mulgrave, the navigator. Cook's honours as a scholar;—his merits as an author. E<^a%>ment of the Resolution and Discovery. Presents to Omai, &c. Letter to Commodore Wilson 262 CHAPTER XVIII. Cook proceeds on his third voyage. Teneriffe. Cape of G. Hope. Kerguelen's Land* Van Diemen's Land. New Zealand. Kahoora the murderer. New Zealand youths taken on board, tof accompany Omai. .. 306 CHAPTER XIX. Discovery of Mangeea—of Wateeoo. Omai meets three of his countrymen. Hervey Island. Palmerston Island. Komango. Annamooka. Feenou, and other chiefs. Hapaee Isles. Festivities and exhibitions there. King Poulaho. Tongataboo. .. .. .. ..323 CHAPTER XX. Festivities at Tongataboo. The natcke, &c. Eaooa. Observations on the Friendly Isles. Toobouai discovered. Arrival at Oaitiptha in Otaheite. Visit of tfee Spaniards. OmaPs imprudence. Matavai—Otoo— Oedidee. War with Eimeo. Human sacrifices. Peace restored. .. .. .. .. .. .. 347 CHAPTER XXI. Eimeo. Maheine's dishonesty. Severe measures for recovering: stolen goats. Huaheine: Omai's settlement there. His history. Notices of Oedidee. Ulietea. Deserters; trouble in recovering them. Bolabola. Christmas Island. Sandwich Islands discovered—Atooi— Oneeheow .. .. « .. .. .. 378 CHAPTER XXII. American Coast. Nootka Sound. Prince William's Sound. Cook's River. Oonalashka. The Tschutski. Behring's Straits. Progress stopped by ice. Return southward. Norton's Sound. Russian traders at Oonalashka. Return to the Sandwich Islands—Mowee— Owhyhee—Karakakooa Bay. Close of Captain Cook's Journal .. .. .. .. .. ..398 : ' — -" Xll CONTENTS. Pase CHAPTER XXIII. Crowds of natives. Divine honours paid to Capt. Cook. Reflections on the subject. King Terreeoboo's munificence. Furniture of the Morai bought. Departure from Karakakooa. Return. Thefts of the natives. Attack on the pinnace. Cutter stolen. Capt. Cook endeavours to get the King on board: is opposed. Quarrel with the natives. Death of Capt. Cook. Treatment of his body, Negociationsfor recovering it. Village of Kakooaburnt. Bones of Captain Cook recovered and interred. .. 417 CHAPTER XXIV. Sequel of the voyage. Its publication. Cook's death universally lamented. His high character acknowledged, and his memory honoured. Respect shewn to his family. Notices of his relations. Monuments erected to his honour. Happy results of his Voyages. .. .. 443 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Portrait of Captain Cook To face Title. Marton Church (see below) .. ., .. ■ p. 1 Staiths p. 4 Whitby, from the Angel Inn Yard .. .. ■ p. 8 New Zealanders in Dusky Bay .. .. ■ p. 136 Otaheite, from the N.W., with Canoes .. ■ p. 376 Death of Captain Cook p. 435 Easby Monument ■ p. 458 THE LIFE OF COOK. CHAPTER I. Birth, Parentage, and early Employments of Cook, to his entering the British Navy* Captain James Cook, the prince of navigators, one of the brightest ornaments of his country, possessed not the advantage of an illustrious parentage ; but, like not a few of the great and noble, he rose to eminence by the splendour of his talents, and the worth of his character. His father, who had the same name, followed the humble occupation of an agricultural labourer. He is said to have come from the village of Ednam, near the banks of the Tweed, well known as the birth-place of Thomson the poet. The circumstances which induced him to quit his native home, and settle in Cleveland, in the north-east part of Yorkshire, are not known; but when he left his father's house, quite a youth, his mother bestowed her parting blessing in these words, " God send you grace !" and when he married a young woman whose christian name was Grace, and who appears to have been a native 2 J 2 LIFE OF COOK. of Cleveland, he observed, jocosely, that in one sense at least, the prayer of his pious mother had been answered. The young couple resided for a time in the small township of Morton, in the parish of Ormesby, not far from Guisborough; and the baptism of their son John, who lived to the age of twenty-three, is entered in the parish register at Ormesby, under the date of January 10th, 1726-7. From hence they removed to the village of Marton, about a mile to the westward; and here their son James was born, October 27th, 1728. His baptism is thus entered in the parish register at Marton: " 1728. no^r 3. James ye Son of James Cook day labourer baptized." The house in which he was born was a small thatched cottage, of two apartments, which was demolished by the late Major Rudd, about the year J 786, when he was erecting his mansion house, laying out pleasure grounds, and making improve-* ments in the village. The site of the cottage is in the grounds behind the hall. Timothy Lax, an old shoemaker of the village, who died lately at the age of fourscore, and whose wife's mother, Ann Mainsforth, who lived to the age of ninety-six, was present at the Captain's birth, conducted the author to the place where the cottage stood. No vestige of the walls is left; but a willow tree grows at the spot. It should have been a weeping willow, to express the regret which every stranger feels at the destruction «*f a dwelling, which ought to have \m&n carefully preserved, and decorated with evergreen shrubs and fragrant flowers, in honour of the hero who drew his first breath under its roof, and who, had he not be$n prematurely cut off, might have breathed his las$ in a palace, as a peer of the BIRTH AND PAREOTAGE. 3 realm. The cottage was at one time the village alehouse, with the sign of the Bear, and was kept by one William Pearson. When young Cook was but a few months old, his father removed to another cottage, a little further to the south-west, but in the same village. During his residence at Marton, he was chiefly employed as a day labourer, by Mr. Mewburn, a farmer. At his native place, our illustrious navigator received the first rudiments of his education, being taught to read by Dame Walker, the schoolmistress of the village. Being honest, frugal, and sober themselves, his parents studied to bring up their offspring in the fear of God, and in habits of industry and goodness. Their upright conduct soon procured them a better situation; for, about the year 1736, they removed to the neighbouring parish of Ayton, where the father became hind, or foreman, on the farm of Airyholm, belonging to Thomas Skottowe, Esq. During their residence here, which was for several years, young Cook, at Mr. Skottowe's expense, was put to a day school at Ayton, taught by a Mr. Pullen, and was instructed in writing and arithmetic, in addition to reading. The school-house, mtuated in the upper part of Ayton, bears an inscription, stating that it was built by Michael Pos- gate in 1704, and rebuilt in 1785; consequently, its appearance has been altered since it had the honour of Cook's presence. With some of his school-fellows the author has conversed, and obtained from them a part of this narrative. Nothing worthy of notice appeared in his character or acquirements at school, except a resolute adherence to his own plans, in preference to any proposed by 4 LIFE OF COOK. his comrades. When the boys of the village assembled in the evening, to plan an expedition in search of birds' nests, or devise some other project . for amusement, Cook might be seen in the midst of them, proposing his plan, and insisting on its superiority to any other; and even when the current of opinion was in favour of another scheme, he would still pertinaciously adhere to his own, and proceed in the direction chosen by himself, at the risk of being almost deserted by his companions. In such juvenile transactions, we may trace the germ of that unshaken perseverance, that inflexible firmness, with which, in mature life, he pursued the objects of his research. During the intervals of his attendance at Ayton school, and for two or three years after he had left it, young Cook was employed along with his father, in agricultural labours on Mr. Skottowe's farm; and he is said to have been a stable-boy for a short period. His turn of mind, however, being suited to some better employment, he was placed, at the age of sixteen or seventeen, with Mr. William Sanderson, shopkeeper, in Staiths, a considerable fishing town, ten miles north-west from Whitby; with a view to learn the business of haberda§fae$ or country shopkeeper. Here, besides the concerns of the shop, a fresh set of objects engaged the youth's attention. His new residence was close to the German ocean, on the bosom of which crowds of vessels were seen passing and repassing; his new companions were young fishermen and sailors, ever ready to rehearse the adventures of a seafaring life; his leisure hours were often spent in making short excursions in fishing cobles; and thus, by degrees, he became so attached to a seafaring pro- EARLY EMPLOYMENTS. 5 fession, that he felt little inclination to prosecute the business of a shopkeeper. Accidents apparently trivial are frequently ordered by an allwise Providence to bring about the most important results; and when young Cook had been about a year and a half with Mr. Sanderson, a circumstance occurred which gave a new and powerful impulse to his growing desires for a change of employment. One day, while he was attending in the shop, a young woman, who had purchased some articles, gave him a new shilling in payment. Struck with the beauty of the coin, he resolved to keep it as a pocket piece, replacing it with one of his own. But the master, whose eye it had caught at the time of payment, missing it from the till, hastily charged him with purloining it. This charge the lad indignantly repelled, explaining to his master the true reason of its disappearance. He did wrong in making any such exchange, without naming it to his master; yet there can be no doubt that he was not prompted by avarice; and in this affair we see an early instance of that fondness for curiosities which he felt so strongly in his later years. It is worthy of remark, that the coin which so forcibly attracted his notice was what is called a South-Sea shilling, of the coinage of Geo. I, marked on the reverse S S C, for South Sea Com- pany; as if the name of the piece had been intended to indicate the principal field of his future discoveries. The altercation which took place about the shilling increased young Cook's aversion to shop- keeping, and strengthened his predilection for a seafaring life; and Mr. Sanderson, who was a worthy man, finding him bent on going to sea, did $ LIFE OF COOK. not oppose his wishes; but, with the consent of his parents, conducted him to Whitby, where he introduced him to Mr. John Walker, a respectable shipowner and master mariner, to whom he was bound an apprentice for three years. Me. Sanderson and his family, of whom a son and daughter, Mr. John Sanderson and Mrs. Dodds, survived till this history was begun, continued ever after to have a friendly regard for our hero. The house and shop where he lived with Mr* Sanderson, have long ago been swept away by the sea, which has made considerable depredations on the lower part of Staiths; but the counter behind which Cook served, with its venerable till, may still be seen there, in the shop of Mr. Richard Hutton. Our young navigator faithfully served his apprenticeship to Mr. Walker, first in the Freelove, of ^tbout 450 tons, employed in the coal trade, that great nursery for seamen; and afterwards, during his last year's service, in the Three Brothers, a fine new ship of nearly 600 tons; which, by Mr. Walker's direction, he assisted in rigging and fitting for sea. This vessel, after making two coal voyages, was engaged for several months as a transport, and employed in carrying some troops from Middleburgh to Dublin, and conveying other troops from thence to Liverpool. In the spring of 174&, the ship was paid off at Deptford; and was subsequently employed in the Norway trade, in which Cook finished his term of service in the month of July, being then nearly twenty-one years old. In the course of his apprenticeship, he spent several intervals at Whitby, chiefly in the depth of winter when the coal vessels are usually laid up. At such times, according to a custom then general EARLY EMPLOYMENTS. 7 among Whitby shipowners, he lodged in his master's house, which was situated in Grape Lane; being the house lately occupied by Wakefield Simpson Chapman, Esq., and now by Samuel Wharton, Esq. The place where Cook slept, although it has undergone alterations, is still viewed with no small interest. Under the roof of Mr. Walker, a worthy member of the Society of Friends, the youth would naturally be confirmed in those habits of regularity and temperance in which he had been brought up, and which were eminently conducive to his future greatness. His sober deportment and studious turn of mind made him respected by all the family; and he was a particular favourite with Mary Prowd, a trusty old nurse or housekeeper, many years employed in Mr. Walkers house. In the winter evenings, she allowed him a table and a candle, that he might read or write by himself, while the other apprentices were engaged in idle talk or trifling amusements. That eagerness for knowledge, which afterwards grew so rapidly, had even then begun to take deep root in his mind; and he found it a great advantage to be in the service of a gentleman who was ready to encourage him in every thing laudable. It is probable, that during part of the winter months, he attended a day school, or evening school, to learn the first principles of navigation; according to a laudable custom, which has long prevailed among the young seamen of Whitby. His practice as a seaman, from the close of his apprenticeship until he entered the navy, exhibits nothing memorable. He went before the mast, as the phrase is, for above two years, serving on board of various ships. In 1750, he was in the Maria, LIFE OF COOK. belonging to Mr. John Wilkinson of Whitby, employed in the Baltic trade, under the command of Captain Gaskin, a relation of Mr. Walker. Next year he served in a Stockton ship; and in February, 1752, Mr. Walker engaged him as mate of the Friendship, of about 400 tons; his character, as an intelligent, active, and steady seaman, being now well established. ThiiP%ituation Mr. Cook held three years; during which, as well as in his previous service, he was acquiring that expertness in seamanship, and that intrepidity in danger, which are so necessary for a British seaman; and for which Whitby sailors, in particular, have often been distinguished. The vessel was employed in the coal trade, one of the best schools for making good seamen; and so well was Captain Walker satisfied with the ability, faithfulness, and good conduct of his mate, that he was about to promote him to the command of the Friendship, when new and unexpected circumstances led Mr. Cook to bend his talents and services in another direction. The name of the last vessel in which he served Mr. Walker, was a kind of memorial of the connexion between them; for their friendship lasted during life, and even unto this day the memory of Captain Cook is revered by Mr. Walker's descendants, some of whom still reside at Whitbmo, CHAPTER flr Cook volunteers into the Navy.—Is promoxed to be Master'sr Mate, and afterwards Master.—His services at the Siege of Quebec, and the Survey of the St. Lawrence —His service* at Newfoundland.—He returns to England, and marries.— He is employed as Marine Surveyor of Newfoundland and Labrador.—His Charts.—His skill in Astronomy.—Mistake in Chalmers's Biographical Dictionary. In the beginning of summer, in the year 1755, when hostilities commenced between England and France, Mr. Cook was with his vessel in the river Thames; and there being a hot press for seamen, he at first concealed himself to avoid being pressed: but, upon second thoughts, he resolved to volunteer into the navy, " having a msad," as he said, " to try his fortune that way." He went accordingly to a rendezvous in Wapping, and entered with an officer of the Eagle, a sixty gun ship, then commanded by Capt. Hamer, who was succeeded in October, by Capt. (afterwards Sir Hugh) Pal- liser. Soon after he had entered, Mr. Walker gave him a letter of recommendation to his Captain; and when a few months had elapsed, William Osbaldeston, Esq., M.P. for Scarborough, wrote to Captain Palliser on his behalf, at the request of some of his friends. On this occasion, the recommendations of Messrs. John and Henry Walker, were seconded by Mr. Skottowe; whose kindness to the parents of our navigator was unabated. It was in this year that Cook's father, who, having JO LIFE OF COOK. been employed by Mr. Skottowe in repairing and building walls, had acquired some practice as a stone mason, built a house for himself near the centre of the village of Ayton; where he resided for several years, following the occupation of a mason, while he also rented and cultivated a piece of land near the village. The house, now occupied by Joseph Shearwood, is a well built stone house, having over the door the initials of James and Grace Cook, with the date; J. G. C. 1755. Independent of the recommendations of his friends, Mr. Cook soon became a favourite on board the Eagle; his activity, talents, and good conduct, being observed by Capt. Palliser, and all the officers. When he had been two years or more in the service, he was preferred to the station of Masters Mate; in which capacity he served on board the Pembroke, in 1758, at the taking of Louisburg; from whence he wrote Mr. Walker a distinct account of the transactions at that place. Next year, he was promoted to the rank of Master. He was first appointed to -the Grampus sloop, May 10th; but this appointment not taking place, he was assigned to the Garland, four days after; and, that vessel having sailed before he could join her, he was next day, May 15th, appointed Master of the Mercury; there being a fixed resolution on the part of those in power, to promote a youth so deserving, and so well recommended. The Mercury sailed for North America, and joined the fleet under Sir Charles Saunders, engaged, along with the land forces under Gen. Wolfe, in the memorable siege of Quebec. Here the talents of Mr. Cook were called into action, in a i;. SERVICES AT QUEBEC. 11 service of high importance for the prosecution of the siege. It was necessary to take the soundings in the channel of the St. Lawrence, directly in front of the enemy's entrenched camp at Mont- morency: and Cook, being recommended for this service by his friend and patron, Capt. PalMs@% performed it in a manner that gave complete satisfaction to his officers, but with no small peril to himself. For several nights in succession, he was employed in taking the soundings, and making a survey of the channel. But when he was finishing liis task, he was discovered by the French, who collected a number of Indians in a wood near the i&ver side, where they launched their canoes, to surround him and cut him off; and he had just time to escape, by pushing ashore on the island of Orleans, near the guard of the English hospital; abandoning his boat to the Indians, who entered it at the stern, while he was leaping out at the bow. By that time, however, he had so effectually accomplished his work, that the draught of the channel and soundings, which he furnished to the Admiral, was found as correct and complete as it could have been made in day light, after Quebec had come into the possession of his countrymen. In executing such a fcask in the night time, and in the immediate presence of an enemy, Mr. Cook gave a most sfefldng proof of his cool bravery, accurate observation, unwearied patience, and indefatigable perseverance; qualities for wMeh he was- ever after distinguished. His success was the more remarkable, as he had never been taught drawing, and was not known to have ever used a pencil before. This effort of his talents was presently* followed by another, which did him equal credit. 12 He was employed to survey the whole of the river St. Lawrence below Quebec; and so completely did he execute this service, that his chart of the St. Lawrence, which was published, with the soundings, and directions for sailing, immediately came into general use, and still maintains its high reputation. On the 22nd of September, 1759, Mr. Cook was appointed Master of the Northumberland man of war, commanded by Lord Colvill; and wintering at Halifax, he employed his leisure hours in reading Euclid, and studying astronomy, with other branches of science connected with%is profession. His books were few, and his opportunities for improvement limited; yet by dint of application, and vigour of intellect, he made uncommon progress. It is scarcely necessary to add, that he soon gained the esteem and friendship of Lord Colvill, as of eveiy officer under whom he served. In 1762, after the Northumberland had been employed in the recapture of Newfoundland, Cook's talents were again conspicuously displayed, in making, a survey of the harbour and heights of Placentia ; which gained him the favour and high esteem of Capt. (afterwards Admiral) Graves, Commander of the Antelope, and Governor of Newfoundland. Toward the close of the .year 1762, Mr. Cook returned to England, and on the 21st of December, married, at Barking in Essex, Miss Elizabeth Batts, an amiable and worthy lady, who still survives him, at a very acfV'anced age. His marriage brought a considerable accession to his happiness; although his domestic enjoyments could only be tasted at intervals, the duties of his profusion, obliging him to be much more abroad than at SURVEY OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 13 home. This is one of the many privations to which seamen must submit, and for which they are entitled to the sympathy of their countrymen. After the general peace, concluded at Paris, in 1763, Capt. Graves was again sent out as Governor of Newfoundland; and knowing the importance of being well acquainted with the country which he was to govern, he obtained an establishment for the survey of the whole coast, and succeeded in procuring the appointment of Mr. Cook, as Marine Surveyor, having the fullest confidence in his qualifications for the service. Notwithstanding his recent marriage, Mr. Cook accepted the appointment, and proceeded with Capt. Graves to his station; where he was^irst employed in' surveying the small islands, Miquelon and St. Pierre, before they were given up to the French; Capt. Graves contriving to retain those settlements till the completion of this survey, although a French Governor had already arrived to take possession of the two islands, in terms of the late treaty. In the close of the year, Mr. Cook returned to England; but, on the 18th of April, 1764, he was again appointed Marine Surveyor of Newfoundland and Labrador, with a vessel, the Grenville schooner, to attend him in his official duties. In this station, he had now the happiness of serving again under his worthy patron, Sir Hugh Palliser, who had received the appointment of Governor and Commodore of Newfounjttand and Labrador. In finishing the survey whicwne had begun under Capt. Graves, Mr. Cook rendered a most important service to his country, and to the general interests of navigation. Jle not only produced a faithful delineation of extensive coasts, of which no correct 14 LIFE OF COOK, H&harts previously existed, but explored also the interior of Newfoundland, more fully than had ever been done; discovering large inland lakes, and other unknown features of the island. Among other discoveries, he is said to have found copious noines of coal in Newfoundland, so close to the shore, that the coals might be thrown directly from the works into the vessels. In these undertakings Mr. Cook was occupied for four or five successive years, in each of which he appears to have returned to spend the winter at home, resuming his station again whenever the advance of spring would permit trim. The last year in which he went out as Marine Surveyor of Newfoundland, was 1767. But the main object of his appointment was completed in 1766, in which year he delivered his charts of the coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador at the Admiralty office; and, on the proposal of Sir Hugh Palliser, was allowed to publish them for the service and encouragement of navigation. These charts bear the same character for accuracy, as his chart of the St. Lawrence. In the summer of 1766, Cook had an opportunity of observing an eclipse of the sun, near Cape Ray, on the Newfoundland coast* The result of hig observations wajueommunicated to the Royal Society by Dr. J. Bevis, who calls him " an able mathematician;" and who also communicated the result of an exact observation of the same eclipse, taken at Oxford by the Rev. Mr. Hornsby, with a computation of the difference of longitude of the two places of observation, by Mr. Geo. WitcMl. The entire paper is inserted in the fifty-sgventh volume of the Philosophical Transactions. MISTAKE OF CHALMERS. 15 During the progress, of his labours as Marine Surveyor, Mr. Cook might occasionally be engaged in other undertakings for the public good; but there is a service ascribed to him by some of his biographers,, which was done by another officer of the same name. The following paragraph stands as part of the Life of our navigator, in Chalmers's Biographical Dictionary: " He received a commission, as Lieutenant, on "the first day of April, 1760;' and soon after gave " a specimen of those abilities, which recommended B him to the commands which he executed so highly " to his credit, that his name will go down to pos- " terity as one of the most skilful navigators which " this country has produced. In 1765, he was with " Sir William Burnaby on the Jamaica station; " and that officer having occasion to send dispatches " to the governor of Jucatan, relative to the logwood- " cutters in the bay of Honduras, Lieut. Cook was " selected for that employment; and he performed " it in a manner which entitled him to the approbation of the Admiral. A relation of this voyage "and journey was published in 1769, under the "tijjie of ' Remarks on a passage from the river " Balise in the bay of Honduras, to Merida, the " capital of the province of Jucatan, in the Spanish "west Indies, by Lieutenant Cook,' in an 8vo. " pamphlet." The writer of this paragraph has not observed, that there was another Mr. James Cook in the navy, cotemporary with our hero. He was made Lieutenant, April 1st, 1760, eight years before the great navigator attained that dignity; but he never rose above that rank, for long after the death of Capt. Cook, the name of this James Cook still 16 LIFE OF COOK. •remains in the list of Lieutenants, in 1787. To him the honour of the voyage to Merida undoubtedly belongs, and not to our great navigator, who was then busily employed on the coast of Newfoundland. The glories of the latter are so abundant, that there is no occasion to swell the amount by robbing another. In the year 1765, Mr. Cook's mother died, at the age of 63. The family tomb-stone in Ayton churchyard, which records her death, and that of two sons and three daughters, most of whom died in infancy, is understood to have been carved and lettered by her husband; who, about 10 years after, removed from Ayton to Redcar, to spend the evening of his days with his daughter Margaret, the wife of Mr. James Fleck, a respectable fisherman and shopkeeper, who is still alive. CHAPTER III. Modern voyages of discovery, for scientific objects.—Voyage to the South Sea, for observing the transit of Venus, projected. Cook appointed to conduct it, with the rank of Lieutenant. Equipment of his ship, the Endeavour. His Officers and assistants. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, with other scientific gentlemen, accompany him. Arrival at Madeira, with some notice of the inhabitants. Arrival at Rio Janeiro : illiberal conduct of the Viceroy of Brazil. Arrival at Strait Le Maire. Perilous excursion in Terra del Fuego: some account of the natives. Notices respecting the Strait of Le Maire, and that of Magellan. Passage round Cape Horn, and into the Pacific. Discovery of several small islands. Arrival at Otaheite. The deliberations of the Royal Society in 1767 and the beginning of 1768, seconded by the liberality of the government, produced a result highly interesting to our navigator, opening to his enterprising genius a new and extensive sphere where he was destined to shine. At this period, and for some years before, the British government had the honour of instituting voyages of discovery very different from those of the early navigators. Expeditions of this kind were formerly set on foot for the purpose of conquest, the acquisition of territory and of wealth. But now commenced a new era in the annals of navigation, when voyages of discovery were undertaken for the interests of science; for acquiring a knowledge of the different seas, continents, and islands, on the face of our globe; and for ameliorating the condition of the savage tribes that might be discovered. 3 18 COOK S FIRST VOYAGE. On a voyage of this description, Commodore Byron, in the Dolphin, accompanied by Captain Mouatt in the Tamer, sailed in 1764, the year after the general peace; and having circumnavigated the globe, and made several interesting discoveries, he returned in May, 1766. About three months after his return, Capt. WaUis, in the Dolphin, (and Capt. Carteret, in the Swallow, were also sent out to make discoveries in the southern hemisphere. Previous to their return, another voyage to the same quarter was proposed and resolved on, the chief object of which was purely scientific. It had been calculated, that a remarkable traiisit of Venus over the sun's disc would take place in June, 1769, which would be observed with most advantage in one of the South Sea islands; a*nd as an accurate observation of the transit, and a comparison of observations made in different quarters of the world, appeared to be of essential benefit to the science of astronomy, the Royal Soci£jt$r presented a memorial on the subject to the King; who immediately gave orders to the Admiralty, to provide and fit out a vessel, for conveying some gentlemen skilled in astronomy to one of the islands in the southern Pacific, with a view to accomplish the object proposed. This scientific expedition, according to the plan of the Royal Society, was to have been conducted by one of their number, Alexander Dalrymple, Esq., who was eminently fit for the undertaking. But this gentleman would not consent to proceed on the voyage, unless he was appointed to the command of the vessel, with a brevet commission as Captain; as was done in the case of Dr. Halley, in 1698. To this proposal, Sir Edward Hawke, first Lord of EQUIPMENT OF THE ENDEAVOUR. 19 the Admiralty, decidedly objected; declaring that he would not entrust the command of the vessel to one who had not been regularly bred to the sea, and that he would rUther suffer his right hand to be cut off than sign such a commission. Mr. Dal- rymple being equally inflexible, it became necessary to select another commander; and Mr. Stephens, Secretary to the Admiralty, recommended Mr. Cook, as an Officer peculiarly qualified for such a service; and, to assure the board of the correctness of his opinion, referred them to Sir Hugh Palliser, by whom Cook's merits had long been known and appreciated. Sir Hugh warmly seconded this recommendation, being glad to have such an opportunity of serving his friend! Mr. Cook was accordingly appointed to command the expedition, and with this view was promoted to the rank of Lieutenant, his commission being dated May 25th, 1768. An appointment so congenial to his inclinations, could not fail to be highly gratifying to our navigator ; who was further indulged in being permitted, with Sir Hugh Palliser, to select the vessel which he should command, out of many that were then lying in London river. His choice fell, as might be expected, on a Whitby vessel, the Earl Pembroke, of 370 tons, built by the grandfather of the present Thos. Fishburn, Esq., of Whitby, and then belonging to Mr. Thos. Milner of that place. This ship was accordingly purchased, and having received a new name, The Endeavour, was taken to Deptford to be fitted out for the voyage; was manned with a complement of 84 seamen and marines* armed with ten carriage and twelve swivel guns, and furnished with all necessary stores. 20 cook's first voyage. While the Endeavour was fitting out in the river, an incident occurred which deserves to be recorded. A small Stockton trader going up the river, laden with goods, accidentally ran athwart the bow of the Endeavour, and occasioned some damage. The master of the trader was immediately ordered on board the Endeavour, and the Lieutenant began to reprimand him for his negligence. The master replied, that he hoped he would deal kindly with an old acquaintance; at the same time making himself known to him as one who had been his school-fellow at Ayton. This mutual recognition recalled to the minds of both, the juvenile adventures and enjoyments in which they had shared. Looking back with pleasure on the scenes of early life, Cook not only forgave the companion of his youth, but treated him with wine and other refreshments, and dismissed him with additional tokens of affection and esteem. The officers appointed to serve under Lieutenant Cook, appear to have been well chosen for assisting him in his important enterprise. Mr. Hicks, his first Lieutenant, Mr. Gore, his second Lieutenant; Mr. Monkhouse, the Surgeon; Messrs. Saunders, Monkhouse, &c, Midshipmen ; Mr. Mollineux, the Master; with the rest of the officers; were, generally speaking, lovers of science, feeling a particular interest in the objects of the voyage. To these officers was added Mr. Charles Green, an eminent astronomer, who had long assisted Dr. Bradley in the royal observatory at Greenwich. He was appointed to aid Lieut. Cook in observing the transit of Venus, and in prosecuting other objects connected with astronomy: for which purposes, they were furnished with the most complete apparatus, and receiv- HJS' SCIENTIFIC COMPANIONS. 21 ed ample instructions front the Council of the Royal Society, on the best method of conducting their inquiries. Capt. Wallis having returned from his voyage round the world, a little before the Endeavour sailed, at his suggestion, the island of Otaheite, which he had discovered and named George Island, was fixed on as the best spot for observing the transit of Venus. But there were other scientific gentlemen, whose presence and services our navigator enjoyed. He was accompanied by Joseph Banks, Esq., afterwards Sir Joseph Banks, Bart.; who with laudable zeal devoted his time, talents, and property, to the pursuits of science, especially in the department of natural history. This gentleman, who possessed a considerable estate in Lincolnshire, had, after leaving the university of Oxford, crossed the Atlantic in 1763, to study nature on the coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador; and the perils of that voyage having no way damped his enthusiasm in the prosecution of his favourite studies, he deemed it a privilege to accompany Mr. Cook in this honourable expedition. Mr. Banks, at his own expense, engaged some other men of science, to participate in the labours and pleasures of the voyage. Of these the most distinguished was Dr. Solander, a Swedish gentleman, an eminent naturalist, who had been a pupil of the great Linnaeus, and now had an appointment in the British Museum. Two artists were engaged, Mr. Buchan, and Mr. Parkinson; the former a good landscape painter, the latter skilful in the department of natural history. Mr. Banks was also attended by Mr. Sporing, his secretary; and by four servants, two of whom were men of colour. Thus, the number of persons on board the gg cook's fir&t voyage. Endeavour amounted to nearly one hundred; and among these there was more of talent and science than had ever embarked before in any one vessel. No wonder that the expedition excited a great interest in the republic of letters, not only in Britain, but in other kingdoms of Europe. Every thing being ready for the voyage, the Endeavour sailed down the river on Saturday, July 30th, and on that day fortnight anchored in Plymouth Sound; and having waited there for a Mr wind, finally quitted the British shores, on friday, August 26th. On the passage to Madeira, some hard gales were experienced, which occasioned the loss of a small boat and a quantity of poultry ; and in Funchiale roads, where the ship was anchored on tuesday, September 13th, Mr. Weir, the Master's Mate, was carried overboard with the anchor, and drowned. At Madeira, where they remained a week, to take in refreshments, Lieut. Cook and his officers, with the scientific gentlemen, were treated with much kindness and respect, by Mr. Cheap, the English consul, Dr. Thos. Heberden, the principal physician of the island ; and by the inhabitants generally. Even the Franciscan friars, and the nuns of Santa Clara, gave them a friendly reception. The latter, understanding that they were visited by a company of philosophers, took the opportunity of putting their philosophy to the test, according to their own views of it, by asking them, among other things, when it would thunder; and, whether a spring of fresh water coul^ be found within the walls of their convent! Our philosophers, however, employed themselves here in more appropriate researches; in examining the natural productions of the island, and making obsefVations RIO JANEIRO, 23 on thg 9P$S9ers anc* customs of 7the inhabitants. They had an opportun^^of noticing, in particular, with regard to the mip$e jg^[ preparing the celebrated Madeira wine, how pertinaciously.nien will adhere to the customs of their f§|hers, reacting those modern improvements by which an immense saving of labour and expense may be attained. Their wine-press and other apparatus seemed as rude and simple, as what might have been used in the days The next place at which Mr. Cook touched for refreshment was R]& de Janeiro, where he arrived on Sunday, Nov. 13th. On the voyage thither, as well as during the run from Plymouth to Madeira, our philosophers employed themselves in examining $|Jose curious phenomena, and those objects in natural history, which came in their way. They found some new species of birds, and some new genera of small marine animals; and ascertained, that the luminous appearance often presented by the sea, is to be ascribed to the presence of myriads of small animals, each emitting a white light. Among these luminous creatures, Mr. Banks observed a new species of medusa, and three new species of small crabs.— The love of science, which is valuable to all, is of immense worth to those who go to sea. Observations of nature will beguile the tedium of the longest voyage, and make the time which would otherwise hang heavy, pass smoothly and profitably on. The liberal treatment which Lieut. Cook and his companions experienced at Madeira, had led them to expect a similar reception at Rio Janeiro ; but in such anticipations they were woefully disappointed. A great part of the time spent here was occupied in altercations with the Viceroy, a 24 COOK S FIRST VOYAGE. 1 very unworthy representative of the King of Portugal. Tyrannical, rude, and ignorant in the extreme, he could not comprehend what was meant by a scientific expedition; and of the transit of Venus over the sun's disc, he could form no other conception, than that it was "the passing of the north star through the south pole! " To such a person, a ship manned with philosophers was an object of terror and suspicion. In his view, the noblest science consisted in knowing the value of a diamond, a topaz, or an amethyst; and the best philosophy, in procuring the greatest quantity of gold and gems. He watched the mines of Brazil with jealous care, and guarded them with sanguinary laws; laws corresponding with the cruel expense at which they were wrought, an expense of more than 40,000 lives per annum; an annual imported tion of negroes to that amount, being required to supply the horrid waste of human life in working the mines. To the scientific gentlemen it was a severe mortification, to be prohibited from following their favourite pursuits, in a country where every field was decked like a garden with the riches of Flora; and where myriads of the most beautiful winged insects perched on the flowers, or fluttered in the gale: but the Viceroy sternly refused them permission even to land. To an understanding of his calibre, it seemed incredible, that men of their rank should wish to tread his shores, for the purpose of collecting lilies and heaths, or of hunting for beetles and butterflies. Their views, he presumed, were directed to other treasures than those presented by nature in every field. During their stay here, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander got on shore only RIO JANEIRO. 25 once or twice by stealth; a guard-boat being stationed to prevent them from passing. Even the Commander could not land, without a Brazilian officer to attend him every where as a spy; nor return on board, without an officer intruding into his boat. To these and other vexatious restrictions, our navigators were forced to submit. Indeed, when, in one instance, an attempt was made to break through the Viceroy's regulations, the pinnace and hM crew were detained by his orders, for two or three days. On this occasion, as on others of a like kind, Cook's behaviour was at once dignified and prudent. He sent the Viceroy a spirited remonstrance: he also wrote to the Admiralty a full account of this unfriendly treatment, with a copy of his correspondence with the Viceroy; which he had an opportunity of forwarding by a Spanish paeket from Buenos Ayres, the Commander of which politely offered to convey letters to Eufppe. On monday, Dec. 5th, having taken in such refreshments as were judged necessary, the Endeavour weighed anchor, and began to leave this inhospitable shore. The Viceroy had sent the Lieutenant a polite letter, wishing him a good voyage; yet, as if resolved to continue his incivility to the last, he omitted sending orders to the fort of Santa Cruz to allow the vessel to pass, so that on coming abreast of the fort, she was fired at, and was detained there two days till the necessary order arrived. At last our navigators got clear of the harbour, and of their guard-boat; after which, Mr. Banks got ashore on some small islands, where he procured many species of plants and insects. From Rio Janeiro, Lieut. Cook directed his 26 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. course for the Strait of Le Maire; and, in running along the coast of South America, the vessel, in some places, passed through myriads of land insects, some on the wing and others on the water, although the distance from the land could not $$» be lesrtban thirty leagues. While the Endeavour was rapidly advancing into a high southern latitude, it was necessary to prepare for the cold and the storms of the antarctic regions; the ship was furnished with a new suit of saife and the men were supplied with fearnought jackets and warm trowsers. On the 11th of January, 1769, our navigators discovered the coast of Terra del Fuego; and on the 14th, they entered the Strait of Le Maire. The current of the tide being agajnst the Endeavour, in entering the Strait, she had a heavy sea to encounter off Cape St. Diego; but sustained no damage. Lieut. Cook anchored at two or three places in the Strait; and at one of them, the bay of Good Success, remained a \daole week, taking in wood and water. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander landed on different parts of the coast, to collect new species of plants and animals; a pursuit in which they were eminently successful. One of their excursions from the bay of Good Success, in search of alpine plants upon the hills, proved fatal to two of their attendants, and brought the whole party into imminent'danger. They were accompanied by the astronomer and the surgeon, the two artists, and four servants, together with t&& seamen; their number being thus twelve in all. Climbing the neighbouring hill, and forcing their way through pathless woods, for several hours, they found on the other side a swamp covered with low bushes, where they expected a plain. The way TERRA DEL FUEGO. 27 through this to a rocky hill proved longer than they had supposed, and was excessively fatiguing. To aggravate their sufferings, the day which had been fair and pleasant, became dark and chilly, with piercing winds and keen blasts of snow. When they had got about two thirds over the woody swamp, Mr. Buchan was seized with a fit, and could proceed no further. A fire was, therefore, kindled on the spot, and those who were most fatigued were left with him, while the rest pushed forward to the summit of the rock. Here the botanists obtained a rich variety of alpine plants; but they soon found that this treasure was dearly purchased. The cold became more intense, the snow showers more frequent; and the day being far spent, for it was three o'clock when they entered the swamp, it was found impossible to return to the ship that evening, so that they had now the cheerless prospect of spending the night among the bleak and desert mountains, amidst all the rigours of winter, although it was now the midsummer of that dreary region. Sending for Mr. Buchan and those that were left with him, they proceeded in a direction that seemed more favourable for crossing the swamp, and for reaching the wood and the shore. About eight o'clock in the evening, ^hile it was yet good day light, they all met on a hill, Mr. Buchan being now greatly recovered; and from thence they set forward through the swamp for the nearest valley, to seek a place of shelter for the night; Mr. Banks bringing up the rear, to see that no straggler was left behind. Dr. Solander had warned all the party against the danger of being overcome with torpor, when travelling through snow amidst intense cold; repeating 28 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. those words, " Whoever sits down will sleep; and whoever sleeps will wake no more." Yet they had not gone far, when the Doctor himself proved the first that felt an irresistible inclination to lie down; and Richmond, one of the black servants, was seized with the same drowsiness. Mr. Banks sent forward five of the company, to get ready a fire in the first convenient place they could find; while he and four others remained with the Doctor and Richmond, whom they contrived to drag on with them till they were nearly through the swamp, when they both insisted on lying down, declaring that they could go no further. As it was found impossible to carry them, they both sat down among the bushes, and instantly fell asleep. In a few minutes, however, some of the vanguard returned with the welcome news, that a fire was kindled in the wood, about a quarter of a mile further. Dr. Solander was awaked from his slumber, much benumbed; and consented to go forward: but all attempts to rouse poor Richmond were fruitless; and he was left behind, under the care of the other black servant and a seaman. The Doctor was with difficulty brought to the fire; and after the party were a little refreshed, two were sent back to assist in bringing Richmond forward also. In half an hour they returned, stating that they found no person on the spot, and that no one answered to their repeated shouts. It was now discovered, that one of the absentees had a bottle of rum, the company's whole stock; and it was concluded, that the party having awakened Richmond, and partaken too freely of the rum, had lost their way, in attempting to reach the fire themselves, instead of waiting for the assistance TERRA DEL FUEGO. 29 promised them. As it snowed incessantly for two hours after, all hopes of seeing them alive were given up ; but, about midnight, to the great joy of the party, a shouting was heard at some distance from the fire. Mr. Banks and four others proceeded in the direction of the sound, and found the seaman almost exhausted. He was speedily brought to the fire, and by his direction the other two were found soon after. Richmond was still on his legs, but unable to walk; his companion lay senseless on the ground. All hands were called from the fire, and a simultaneous effort was made to carry them thither; but the task was found altogether hopeless, owing to the difficulties of the way, the darkness of the night, and the exhausted state of the party. An attempt to kindle a fire on the spot proved equally abortive, owing to the quantity of snow that had fallen, and was still falling. Mr. Banks and the party, after placing them under the shelter of some boughs of trees, were forced to leave them for the night; some more of their number, particularly Briscoe, another of Mr. Banks's servants, now beginning to be attacked with torpor. With much difficulty they regained the fire, from which they had been absent an hour and a half. The rest of the night was spent in misery and terror, in gloomy reflections on the fate of their companions, and dreadful anxiety respecting their own. The dawn of morning brought small relief; nothing but snow appeared on every side, and the snow blasts had scarcely abated in their frequency or their fury. About six, the clouds became less dense, and the place of the sun could be discerned through them. Three of the company were despatched as soon as possible, to look after the poor wretches who were If 30 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. left among the bushes; and quickly returned with the melancholy, but not unexpected news, that they were dead. The snow showers still continuing to fall, it was not till after eight o'clock, when indications of a thaw appeared, that the party Could hope to prosecute their journey with success^; especially as two of them, Briscoe and Mr. Buchan, ^though able to walk, were still invalids. Before letting out, they shared the only article of food which they possessed,—a vulture, which they had providentially shot during their excursion, and which, being divided into ten portions, according to their number, fuimshed about three mouthfufc to each. Having finished this repast, they set out about ten o'clock, much of the snow being then melted; and after a walk of about three hours, they were agreeably surprised to find themselves on the beach, and at no great distance from the ship; their route this day being direct, whereas on the former it had been very circuitous. Their safe return on boayi was matter of great joy and congratulation to Lieut. Cook and their friends, as well as to themselves, much anxiety having been felt on their account, when they did not arrive the preceding evening. In some of their excursions, our naturalists met with the rude inhabitants of the country, with whom they were on friendly terms. These people appeared to hold the lowest place in the scale of civilization; being inferior in some respects even to the Caffres of South Africa: whom they resembled, in having conical or bee-hive huts, rudely constructed with poles, partially covered with grass and branches; in having no other garment but the hide of a beast, thrown over their shoulders; TERRA DEL FU&GO. 31 in bedaubing their bodies with paint; and in wearing bracelets of beads, shells, or bits of bone. They had no furniture, not even an implement to dress their food. Yet their bows and arrows were neatly formed, and the latter had barbed heaj^ of glass or flint. They seemed to be a dull uninteresting race, possessing a very small share of cariosity or penetration. The most remarkable custom observed among them was, that when they were introduced to any new place, or new object, one of their number shouted with all his might for some minutes. On reviewing this description of man in his savagk State, it is not unprofitable to recollect, that such were once the inhabitants of our own enlightened cipintry. The ancient. Britons were little, if any thing, superior to the present natives of Terra -d&l F^^o. FduHjfetions of their conical huts, occasionally placed in rows like streets, have been fi&tiild in considerable quantity on the Eastern Moofstftff Yorkshire, not far from the birthplace of our great navigator; and in the centre of eaei foundation, forming a hollow in the ground,4rjimain- ders of the fires of the British savages may be dug up.* Their beads, and flint arrow-heads neatly barbed, are often found in the fields; and it is well known, tl&t they also painted their bodies, and wore rude dresses of skin. The time may ^MVe, when the wretched inhabitants of Terra del Fuego shall be as enlightened as those of the British isles. While the naturalists were pursuing their favou- •iilisstudies, the Commander was dhiefly employed in taking soundings, bearings, and observations, * See Young's History of Whittfif&nd its Vicinity, Vol. II, pp, 666-681. J 32 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. to ascertain every thing connected with the safe navigation of this important strait. His observations, in some of which he was assisted by Mr. Green, were continued all along the shore, from the entrance of the strait as far as Cape Horn; and the result was given in a chart of the coast, much more correct than any before published. As this chart was constructed for the benefit of future navigators, so for their guidance, Mr. Cook gives excellent instructions for passing the strait of Le Maire, and doubling Cape Horn. In this voyage too, he performed the important service of ascertaining, that the passage into the Pacific by this channel, is much more safe and expeditious than that by the strait of Magellan. His voyage from opposite the eastern entrance of that strait round Cape Horn, and northward beyond its western termination, occupied only thirty-three days; whereas Capt. Wallis, in the Dolphin, was three months in passing through the strait, and encountered no small danger in the passage, as most navigators had done before him. The strait of Magellan, or Magalhaens, was discovered in 1520, by the famous navigator of that name, a native of Portugal in the service of Spain; who first crossed the Pacific ocean, discovering in his passage the Ladrone and the Philippine islands>\ and whose ship, the Victory, first circumnavigated the globe. The strait of Le Maire was discovered in January, 1616, by the Dutch navigator James Le Maire, and his comrade William Schouter; and they passed through the strait, under circumstances nearly corresponding with those which Cook considered as essential to a safe navigation. The island on the left they named Staten Land, in STRAIT LE MAIRE. 33 honour of the " High and Mighty States;" Port Maurice, on the right, one of the spots where Cook also anchored, was so called from Maurice of Nassau; Barnevelt's Isles, beyond the strait, had their name from a Dutch gentleman of rank; and Cape Horn was so called, in honour of the town of Horn, the native place of Schouter. In passing the strait, they encountered immense numbers of penguins and whales. In their progress to India, they fell in with some of the South Sea islands, and remarked the eagerness of the natives to obtain nails. Lieutenant Cook sailed from the Bay of Good Success, January 22nd, and on the 26th, took his departure from Cape Horn, steering into the Pacific Ocean for Otaheite. On Wednesday, March 1st, after a run of 660 leagues, it was found that the ship's latitude and longitude were the same by observation as by the log; a proof of the accuracy with which the navigation was conducted, and of the absence of all remarkable currents. On the 25th, a valuable young man, one of the marines, was lost under circumstances truly lamentable. He had taken a small piece of seal skin, belonging to a servant of the Commander; this trivial theft, partly committed as a joke, was magnified by his comrades into a serious crime, and while he was threatened by the sergeant with exposure and punishment, his mind was so overpowered with the idea of suffering disgrace, that he walked overboard. On tuesday, April 4th, our navigators saw, for the first time, one of the South Sea islands; and were delighted with the rich appearance of its groves of cocoa and palm trees, which, when contrasted with the dreary land of Terra del Fuego, 4 34 COOKS FIRST VOYA6E. seemed a terrestrial paradise. The island having a lagoon in the middle, was named Lagoon Island. Its natives were seen on the beach, armed with long spears. On the same day, another small island was passed, which received the name Thrumcap Island; and next day, a low island, which, from its remarkable form, was termed Bow Island. On thursday the 6th, two clusters of islets were passed, which were named the Groups. Some of the natives approached the ship in canoes, but durst not venture near enough to be taken on board. On friday, the 7th, another low island was discovered, abounding with birds, which was therefore designated Bird Island. Next day, another island was passed, or rather, a lagoon eneircled by a chain of islets; for which reason it was called Chain Island. On monday, April lOfth, they passed the island of Maitea, which Wal- lis discovered, and named Osnaburgh Island. On the day following, they obtained a distant view of Otaheite; and on thursday, April 13th, they cast anchor in Matavai Bay; having been eight months and a half in makii^ thear passage from London. CHAPTER IV. Friendly intercourse with the natives of Otaheite. Regulations for trading. Excursion into the country; its delightful aspect. Vl$t to Tootahah, the regent. A fort with an observatory erected. A native unfortunately shot, when stealing a muskeli Death of Mr. Buchan. Lieut. Cook's strict regard to justice. Visit of Oberea. The quadrant stolen, but recovered. J&ivjiie^service at the fort, vis&si ^ Tootahah; thefts committed by the natives. Preparations for observing the Transit of^mus. The Transit successfully observed, at three different spots. The King's birthday kept. Nails stolen by some of the ship's company. Survey of the island. Manners of the natives. Improper intercourse with them. Tupia and his boy taken on Warti^ Departure from Otaheite. While the Endeavour was approaching Matavai Bay, which Wallis named Portroyal, several canoes came off to her from the shore, filled with natives, bearing branches of trees as tokens of peace and amity; and when these were received by the sailors, and stuck in the rigging of the ship, the natives began to trade with them, selling cocoa nuts, bread-fruit, and other products of the island, for beads and other trifles. When the ship anchored in the bay, this friendly commerce increased, to the satisfaction of both parties; and to ensure order, and prevent quarrels, the Commander issued a set of judicious regulations, to be observed by all his people in trading with the fiaiives. Among hig officers and crew, were some who had been at Otaheite in the Dolphin; and 36 cook's first voyage. these, particularly Messrs. Gore and Mollineux, were now of considerable service, from their knowledge, both of the place and of the people. Among the natives who came off to the ship, was an elderly man named Owhaw, whom they immediately recognised as an old friend, who had been very serviceable to Capt. Wallis and his crew. With this friend, the Commander, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solan- der, and a party of men under arms, went on shore; and were received with profound respect by a number of the natives, bearing in their hands green branches of trees, as emblems of friendship. The visitors, plucking some branches from the trees, displayed the same token; and marching on about half a mile, were conducted to the spot where the Dolphin had watered. Here the green branches were deposited, and signs were made, that the place was at the service of our navigators; an offer which was not accepted, Matavai Bay being considered a more eligible station. The party then took a walk through delightful groves of trees, laden with cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit, and affording the most grateful shade. Among these trees were the simple dwellings of the natives, each consisting of a roof supported by wooden pillars, and generally open on all sides. The scenes thus presented to the view of our navigators, in a circuit of four or live miles, were at once novel and enchanting, appearing to realise the poetical-fables of Arcadia. Next day, two chiefs came on board the Endea- voin% and on their.invitation, Lieut. Cook and his scientific friends embarked in two boats, and paid a visit to Tootahah, now regent of that part of the island; his nephew Outou, or Otoo, the young OTAHEITE. 37 king, being a minor. Whappai, the father of Otoo, was alive; but possessed neither the crown, nor the regency. Tootahah, who lived at Eparre (or Pare), about four miles to the south-west of Matavai, received them in a house of uncommon length; where they were seated opposite to him upon mats, and a friendly interchange of presents took place. They were next introduced to another chief, Toubourai Tamaide, and Tomio his wife; at whose house they dined on fish, bread-fruit, &c, baked among heated stones, after the Tahitian fashion. But the banquet was suddenly broken up; for Dr. Solander and Mr. Monkhouse had their pockets picked, the former losing an opera glass, and the latter his snuff box: and Mr. Banks, demanding redress, started up, and hastily struck the butt end of his firelock on the ground; upon which almost all the company scampered off in great terror. Through the exertions of the chief, however, the stolen articles were speedily recovered; and the party returned in safety to the ship. On Saturday, April 15th, Lieut. Cook began to erect a small fort on the point of land adjoining to Matavai Bay; both to accommodate the gentlemen belonging to the expedition with lodgings on shore, and to have the astronomical instruments properly fixed, for observing the transit of Venus; from which last circumstance, the spot has ever since been named Point Venus. To prevent interruption, the Commander drew a line within a certain distance of the ground marked out; signifying to the natives, that none of them should cross that line, except some of their chiefs: a restriction to which they patiently submitted, sitting down on the outside of the circle, to witness what was going 38 cook's first voyage. forward within. When a tent had been erected for Mr. Banks, the Commander and ha, with some others, took a walk into the woods; leaving thirteen marines, under the command of Mr. Monk- house, midshipman, to guard the tent. But they had not walked above hstff a mile, when the report of muskets made them hasten back to the tent, where they found that a lamentable occurrence had taken place. One of the natives had snatched the centmel's piece out of his handA and run off with it; upon which, the midshipman, very inconsiderately, ordered the party to fire; and the thief not falling on this first discharge, he was pursued aild shot dead. This act of barbarous cruelty was feighly displeasing to the Commander, whose own behaviour towards the natives was marked with humanity and kindness, and who particularly sought to cultivate their friendship at this time, that he might prosecute with more advantage the great object of the expedition. It was. some consolation to learn, that the thief was the only sufferer; and after a few days, the natives, who had all fled- on the occasion, renewed their visits, and soon became as friendly as ever. A death occurred among the English at the same period. Mr. Buchan, who had been seized with fits at Terra del Fuego, and was also subject to a bilious disorder, expired on the 17th. He was buried in the sea, lest the prejudices of the natives should be hurt, by interring him on shore. On tuesday, April 18th, the erection of the fort was proceeded with; and several of the natives assisted ia carrying the pickets and fascines. Great care was taken on this occasion, to set them an example of honesty; the materials wanted for the OTAHfJITE.—THEFTS. 39 erection being all purchased, and not a tree cut down without the owner's consent. In other in^ stances also, the Commander acted towards the natives with the strictest justice. The butcher of the Endeavour having threatened to kill Tomio, if she would not sell him a stone hatchet for a nail y the offence being proved by the natives, he was tied up to be flogged in their presence: but as soon as the first stroke was inflicted, they humanely interceded for his pardon; and, their request being denied, they witnessed the rest of his punishment with many tears. On a future occasion, two seamen received two dozen lashes each, for forcibly seizing several bows, arrows, and strings of plaited hair, belonging to some of the natives. The Tahitians had much need of such lessons csa the subject of honesty; for they were continually pilfering nails, and other European articles, when opportunity offered. Yet they appeared sensible of the immorality, or disgrace, of such practices ; for when Mr. Banks, by mistake, charged Toubourai Tamaide with having stolen a knife N which was missing, the chief felt highly indignant at the charge. At another time, however, with all this sense of honour, he could not resist the temptation presented by some large nails which he saw in Mr. Banks's tent: five of them were slolen by the chief, one of which only he returned. In dealing with such people, caution was seqxrix&d as much as fairness; and the trading department was ably conducted by Mr. Banks, who stationed hhjftf self for this purpose in his small boat, fixed up at the entrance of the fort; where the n&titfes sold their fruits, fowis> and pigs, for beads> nails, knives> and hatchets. 40 cook's first voyage. Among the persons of various ranks who visited the ship, or the fort, were several females; but it was not till the 28th of April, that Mr. Mollineux recognised as a new visitor the celebrated Oberea, who holds so conspicuous a place in the narrative of Capt. Wallis, by whom she was considered as the queen of the island. She was nearly related to the young king Otoo; her husband, Oamo, being his uncle, and brother to Tootahah. She paid many visits to the fort and the ship, but disgraced herself by several petty thefts. Her son, Terridiri, was brought one day to the fort by his father, Oamo, in royal state, borne on a person's shoulders, accompanied by his sister, who was his intended wife. The natives uncovered the upper part of their bodies in their presence; a mark of respect paid to royalty: and would not allow their sacred persons to be in the tent. The most daring and serious theft committed by the natives, occurred on the 1st. of May, or early on the 2nd. The fort had been completed, and six swivel guns mounted on it, a few days before; and on monday, May 1st, the observatory was set up, and the astronomical quadrant, with other instruments, taken on shore. Next morning, when the Commander and Mr. Green were proceeding to Hx the quadrant, they were much surprised and grieved to find that it was missing; and although a diligent search was made, both in the ship and at the fort, it was no where to be seen. Upon this, Mr. Banks, who had great influence with the natives, set out to inquire for it in the woods, accompanied by Mr. Green and a midshipman. They soon met Tou- bourai Tamaide, who by making the figure of a triangle, with three bits of straw on his hand, QUADRANT stolen, and recovered. 41 informed them that he knew what they were seeking. They pressed him to go with them in pursuit of the thief; but when they had proceeded four miles, he pointed to a place three miles further, to which the quadrant had been carried. Conceiving that it might be dangerous to advance so far into the interior unprotected, Messrs. Banks and Green sent back the midshipman to bring a party to support them, while they moved forward with their guide to the spot which he had pointed out. Here, to their great joy, they recovered the quadrant, with a horse pistol and other articles formerly stolen. On their way back, they met the Commander with a party, hastening to their aid; and they all returned together, with mutual congratulations on the success of an expedition, of so much importance for the great object of their voyage. Their joy was somewhat damped, on finding at their return, that Lieutenants Gore and Hicks, mistaking their instructions, had taken Tootahah into custody, and kept him a prisoner at the fort; to the no small concern of the natives, who imagined that he was going to be put to death. The Commander instantly released him; when their tears and lamentations gave place to transports of joy, although some days elapsed before they could forget the indignity done to their governor. To regain his friendship and theirs, and to restore the trade in provisions which had been seriously interrupted, Messrs. Cook and Banks, with Dr. Solan- der and others, paid a visit to Tootahah, on friday, May 5th, at his residence at Eparre; where they Were kindly received, and treated with the sight of a grand public wrestling match, not unlike what prevailed among the ancient Greeks. 42 cook's first voyage. On Sunday, the 14th, Divine Service was performed at the fort; and Mr. Banks brought Tou- bourai Tamaide and his wife Tomio to attend it. They behaved with great propriety during the service; standing, sitting, or kneeling, as they saw Mr. Banks do: but they made no inquiries into the nature and design of this exercise, and paid no attention to the attempts that were made to explain it to them. Many years were yet to pass by, ere the inhabitants of this island should receive Christianity, and enjoy its blessings. On Saturday, the 27th, six gentlemen, including the Commander, paid another visit to Tootahah, who was then at Atahourou, about fifteen miles from the ship. They succeeded badly in their main object, which was to obtain a larger supply of hogs, and other provisions; and a singular eon- cert and show, with which they were treated late at night, proved but a small recompense for their disappointments and losses. Mr. Banks lost nearly all his clothes, together with his pistols and other property, although he had put them under the special protection of Oberea, in whose large canoe fee slept. Each of the other #feitors lost; some part of his dsm&, except Dr. Solandefc.:.u In various excursions into the interior, Mr. Banks had opportunities of enriching his collection of plants, and other specimens in natural history; and he also employed himself in adding to the vegetable products of the island, by planting, both near the fort and in the woods, the seeds of watermelons, oranges, lemons, limes, &c, collected at Rio Janeiro; that the natives, as well as future voyagers, might have a richer supply of wholesome food. Of the quadrupeds of the island, which are OTAHJITE.—TRANSIT OF VENUS. 43 few in number, dogs, as well as hogs, are eaten. The English gentlemen one day partook of a dog, presented by Oberea, and found it to be a very good dish. It is observable, that Tupia killed it in the way which we now call burking, by holding his hands close over the mouth and nose for a quarter of an hour; and then baked it in a Tahi- tian oven, viz. in a hole in the ground among hot stones. In one of his expeditions, Mr. Banks explored the roman^f valley of Matavai for several miles, t^ing the stream upwards between its steep banks, which in some parts are richly adorned with vege- ^tk>n, and in others present naked rocks, which are clearly of voieanic origin. Had he persevered a little further, he would have found what has since been discovered, a lofty cliff of columnar basalt, rising to the height of 200 ft., and 300 ft. in extent. This grand colonnade is described in the Journal of Messrs. Tyerman and Bennet, vol. i, p. 140. While Saturday, June 3rd, the important day of the transit of Venus, was drawing nigh, uncommon anxiety was felt about fulfilling the wishes of the Royal Society; and in consequence of some hints received from the Earl of Morton, their President, %$. Commander, to guard agaiast disappointments* and ensure greater accuracy, resolved to have the transit observed, not only at the fort, but at two other points, in different directions. Mr. Goge, Mr. Banks, Mr. Monkhouse the surgeon, and Mr. Sporing, accompanied by Toubourai Tamaide, Tomio, and other natives, proceeded on thursday morning in the long-boat to the island of Eimeo, twelve or fourteen miles to the west of Otaheite ; taking with them proper instruments for making 44 COOK S FIRST VOYAGE. observations. Another set of instruments being committed to Messrs. Hicks, Clerk, Pickersgill, and Saunders, these gentlemen proceeded on friday in the pinnace, to fix on another point of observation to the east of Matavai. The Commander, with Mr. Green and Dr. Solander, remained at the observatory, where the best astronomical instruments were set up. Through anxiety about the weather, and the results of next day's proceedings, none of the parties could sleep soundly during friday night; but next morning, to their great joy, they saw the sun rise without a cloud; and at each of the three stations, the day continued clear, and every way favourable for astronomical observations. Owing to the atmosphere of the planet, there was some difficulty in marking the times of contact. According to Mr. Green, the first external contact was, 9h. 25m. 42s. A.M.; internal contact, or total immersion, 9h. 44m. 4s. A.M.; beginning of emersion, 3h. 14m. 8s. P.M.; end of the transit, 3h. 32m. 10s. The transit thus occupied more than six hours. The latitude of the observatory was ascertained to be 17° 29' 15" S; the longitude, 149° 32' 30" W. During the observations at Eimeo, Mr. Banks had much friendly intercourse with the natives, particularly with Tarrao, the King, and his sister Nuna; to whom, and to other natives, he shewed the appearance of the planet on the sun's disc. The three parties of astronomers met together on monday the 5th, which was kept as the King's birth-day, with much joy, and mutual congratulation, on the results of their service. But our joys are seldom without alloy, and on this occasion the officers were grieved at discovering that, while they were closely engaged with their astronomical ob- OTAHEITE. 45 servations, some of the ship's company had broken into a store-room, and stolen a quantity of spike nails, amounting to no less than a hundred weight. One of the culprits was detected and punished, but only seven of the nails were recovered. A few days after, when a coal rake, and some other articles, had been stolen from the fort, the Commander detained some canoes laden with fish, to ensure the restitution of the stolen property; but as they belonged to individuals of small influence, the measure was but partially successful, the coal rake only being restored. When the canoes were afterwards delivered up, a chief named Potattow made a fraudulent attempt to take one of them as his own ; but the trick being reported to Mr. Cook, he ordered it to be restored to the rightful owners. On monday, June 26th, the Commander, with Mr. Banks and others, set out in the pinnace to make a survey of the whole island; and the survey was not completed till Saturday, July 1st. Otaheite (better written Taheite, or Tahiti, the O being only a prefix,) was found to consist of two peninsulas, connected by a low marshy isthmus; and its whole circuit was ascertained to be about thirty leagues. The rocks, which rise to a great height in the interior, bear marks of volcanic origin, while the shore is, for the most part, surrounded by a coral reef; as in many other S. Sea islands. Much interesting information was obtained in this tour, as well as before and after, respecting the products of the island, the manners of the natives, &c. Several of their morais, which were both sepulchres and places of worship, were visited. The most magnificent was that of Oamo and Obe- rea, which occupied an area of 360 feet by 354; 46 COOK S FIRST VOYAGE. having oil one side a pyramid of storle work, 44 feet high, on an oblong base 267 feet by 87. The natives, instead of burying a dead body, placed it in a sitting or reclining posture, on a kind of hammock or cot, supported by posts, and covered with an awning; and when the flesh was wasted away, they interred the bones in the morai. Their altars were a kind of scaffolds, supported by wooden pillars,- where offerings of hogs, dogs, fish, plantains, &c, were left for their gods. Very few of tfaeir idols were observed. The southern peninsula, named Tiarabu, was found to be a disti&£f kingdom, not under the sway of Tootahah, but having its own independent chief, Waheatua. The people of Otaheite were observed to be remarkably hospitable, kind, and open, and very attentive to personal cleanliness; but their character, in other respects, was grdssly immoral. Theai? propensity to steal and defraud has already been noticed ; and they were so lacivious, a§*to have no sense of modesty or decency. The females would openly lay themselves down on mats, and invite the strangers to their embraces. On one occasion, a youth and a girl performed the rites of Venus in presence of a large company, while Oberea herself stood by, and gave directions, as mistress of the ceremonies. At another time, a female of rank, who visited Mr. Banks at his tent with a present, paid her respects to him, by lifting her garments up to her waist, turning round to him three times, and then dropping them. Our navigators discovered, that a large and popular society existed in the island, called the society of the arreoy, including several persons of rank, of both sexes; the object of whose association was the unrestrained ■t i OTAHEITE. 47 indulgence of lust, by promiscuous intercourse, and abominable licentiousness. And here, as is often the case, cruelty and lust were combined; the members being bound, on pain of expulsion, to murder their infant offspring at the birth, lest the rearing of children should interrupt their criminal pleasures. Adultery incurred so little disgrace, that Oberea, the Wife of Oamo, openly kept a paramour named Obadee; and was not at all disconcerted, when Mr. Banks surprised them together in her can®e« It is much to be regretted, that instead of discountenancing the licentiousness of the natives, the seamen of the Endeavour, like those of the Dolphin, and of the two French ships commanded by Bougainville, disgraced themselves by indulging in illicit intercourse with the females of Otaheite. Such practices are not only highly immoral and degrading, but tend to the subversion of discipline and good order. The attachments thus formed by the crew of the Endeavour, were attended with consequences that threatened to prove serious; for when the ship was nearly ready to set sail, two of the marines absconded with two girls, resolving to remain on the island; and in order to recover them, the Commander was forced to take Tootahah and other chiefs into custody, and to detain them on board, till through their influence and authority the fugitives were restored. During the three months spent at Otaheite, attachments of a more honourable nature began to be formed ; Tupia in particular, the high-priest of the island, and formerly prime minister of Oberea, conceived a warm friendship for the English, and often expressed a desire to accompany them. 48 COOK S FIRST VOYAGE. When the fort had been demolished, and the useful materials embarked, Tupia came on board, with his servant Tayeto, a boy of thirteen, and begged to be allowed to proceed with them on the voyage; and as it was desirable, on many accounts, for our navigators to have such a companion, especially to facilitate their intercourse with the natives of other islands, his request was cheerfully granted. On thursday, July 13th, the day appointed for setting sail, the ship was very early crowded with natives, who came to take their leave, while multitudes of canoes pressed around, filled with natives, who had come to have a parting sight of their English friends, and their countryman, Tupia. When the vessel got under weigh, the Tahitians expressed their grief by loud lamentations. Tupia, on this affecting occasion, strove to suppress his tears with a firmness which did him honour: and afterwards went to the mast-head with Mr. Banks, waving to the canoes as long as they were in sight CHAPTER V. Visit to Huaheine. Friendly behaviour of the King and his people. Visit to Ulietea. Great Morai, and sacred chests. Visit to Otaha, and approach to Bolabola. Return to Ulietea. Native dances. Interview with Opoony, King of Bolabola. Trade for provisions. Departure from the Society Islands. Oheteroa discovered. Hostile conduct of the natives. Death of the Boatswain's Mate. The Comet seen. Having quitted the shores of Otaheite, the attention of the Commander was directed towards some neighbouring islands, lying to the N.W., well known to Tupia; who mentioned by name Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola, as places where hogs, fowls, and other refreshments, might be procured in abundance; and it was the more desirable to visit them, as the supplies at Otaheite had been scanty, for some time before the Endeavour sailed. On the voyage thither, when the ship was sometimes becalmed, Tupia prayed to his god Tane for a wind; but it was remarked, that he never began to pray, till he saw tokens of an approaching breeze. On the 16th, the Endeavour reached Huaheine, some canoes came off from the shore, in one of which were the King and Queen of the island, who seeing Tupia, and receiving assurances of 5 50 cook's first voyage. friendship, were encouraged to come on board, with several of their people; before the vessel came to an anchor in a fine harbour named Owharre, now written Fare. The King, who was called Oree, proposed as a mark of friendship, to exchange names with the Commander; and during the rest of their intercourse, the former was King Cookee, and the latter Lieut. Oree. They went on shore together, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Monkhouse, and Tupia. The latter having stripped himself as low as the waist, according to ^e.Tahitian fashion of doing obeisance, delivered a long speech or prayer, and performed various ceremonies, in presence of the King and a crowd of natives, this being understood as the ratification of a treaty of peace. The English were received very kindly, and remained here three days; during which they visited several houses of the nati^^ examined the productions of their island, which were the same as those of Otaheite; and purchased a quangjjy of hogs, bread-fru^f .cocoa nuts, &c, for nails and hatchets. The Commander gave the King, at parting, some British medals or counters, struck in 1761, and a small pewter plajte, on which was stamped " His Britannic Maj^j^'^ Ship, Endeavour, Lae$itenant Cook, Commander, 16th July, 1769, Huaheine^" leaving, behind him this testimony of hi^having first discovered th^Jsland. The nextjsland vjSjedwas Ulietea, ijpw written Raiatea, seven or eiglgt,leagues S.W. of Huahej^j Here the Commander and several of his friends landed on the 20th ; and hpisjing a flflg, took possession of this anct}tge neighbouring islands in the name of His Britannic Majesty. The natives shewed toJ^s of figgn^slgp, and Tup^i^^^ m ULIETEA AND OTAHA. 6l the ceremoMes used at Huaheine; but he expressed his fears of the men of Bolabola, who had conquered thisllsland, and stripped him of large possessions whicti he oflafee had there. In more than one part of the island, jaw bones, fixed to boards, and hung up as trophies, to commemorate this conquest, were observed. A similar trophy had been seen in the southern part of Otaheite, the memorial of a victory gained over Oberea and Oamo. ^•rUfear the harbour wherS the Endeavour anchored, which was called Oopoa, was a great Morai, built with walls of coral «tone; and beside it an altar, on which lay a large roasted hog, whion had been offered to the god. Some arks, or sacred chests, containing something wrapped up in mats, were also observed. Mr. Banks examined one of them> but perceiving that he was giving offence, he desisted. Here, as Mr. Ellis states, in his Polynesian Researches, the great national idol, Oro, was Worshipped, and human victims were occasionally offered. On the 21st, while Mr. Banks and other gentlemen were trading with the natives, and examining the curiosities of the island, the Commander, and some of his officers, were surveying the coast. In coming out of the harbour on the 24th, the ship was in imminent danger of striking on a coral rock. The island Otaha, now written Tahaa, was next visited. The ship did not come to an anchor here; but Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander landed in a boat, with Tupia and others; and while they examined the island, procured a few hogs and fowls, and a large supply of yams and plantains. The natives, instructed by Tupia^ treated them with great re- COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. spect, uncovering the upper part of their bodies before them, as in the presence of their Kings. Lieut. Cook, on the 29th, reached Bolabola, now written Borabora, with an intention to land; but the wind being unfavourable, and the island inaccessible in that point, he returned to another harbour of Ulietea, to stop a leak in the ship, and take in more ballast. Owing to contrary winds, the vessel was not safely moored here until Wednesday morning, Aug. 2nd. The trade for hogs, fowls, and plantains, was now resumed; and the scientific gentlemen enjoyed some delightful excursions into the country, where they were treated with great respect and kindness, and the presents of beads which they made to some interesting young females were highly esteemed. In one house they were entertained with a dance, performed by a man with a singular head-dress. Next day, the Commander and others witnessed another dance, in which two women, and six men, with three drums, were engaged. Similar dances, with dramatic interludes, were seen on other days. In these pastimes, the attitudes and gestures of the female dancers were shockingly wanton. On the 5th, a handsome present of hogs, fowls, and cloth, came from Opoony, the formidable King of Bolabola, now at Ulietea, with several of his people. Next day, our navigators paid him a visit; but instead of seeing a vigorous, spirited, and intelligent chief, they were surprised to find this great conqueror, the terror of the islands, an old, infirm, sluggish creature, almost blind, and singularly stupid. Next day they made an excursion in their boats to Otaha, and Opoony accompanied them in his canoe. They hoped by his influence to pro- SOCIETY ISLANDS. 53 cure a larger supply of hogs,^plantains, and other i provisions, but were disappointed. They procured some, however, towards the north part of the island. It is not surprising, that they were eager in making such purchases, when their beef had been so long kept, and their bread was so full of vermin, that notwithstanding all possible care, they sometimes got twenty of them in one mouthful of bread, every one of them tasting as hot as mustard. People on land will often complain, when their provisions are not of the best quality; but their complaints might be silenced, did they consider on what loathsome food their seafaring brethren are sometimes forced to subsist for months together. As some time had been lost at Ulietea, while the carpenters were stopping the leak, Lieut. Cook sailed from thence to the southward, instead of returning, as he had proposed, to land on Bolabola. Towards that island, then seven leagues distant, a shot was fired, at Tupia's request, as a mark of his resentment, or to shew the power of his new allies. The group of islands, now visited, the Commander named Society Islands. From the 9th, on which he set sail, nothing worth notice occurred till the 13th, when an island was discovered which Tupia named Oheteroa. It is now called Rurutu, being one of the Austral Islands. Lieut. Gore, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and others, approached the shore in the pinnace, with an intention to land; but the natives, instead of welcoming them ashore, appeared on the beach in hostile array, armed with long lances, and some of them singularly attired. While the pinnace moved along the shore, several natives came off in a canoe, and r 64, COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. after accepting some nails, began to board the pinnace, in order to seize it; but the firing of two muskets over them, made them instantly desist, and hasten to the shore. The ship and boat made the circuit of the island; and as ttare was neither harbour nor anchorage found, while the natives persisted in their hostility, their champions standing on the shore brandishing their lances in defiance; the Commander perceiving that a landing could scarcely be effected without bloodshed, and would be of small benefit where there was no harbour, humanely relinquished the attempt. These islanders, though more fierce than the Tahi- tians, seemed to have made greater progress in the acts, their canoes and weapons being more handsomely carved, and their dresses more tastefully: coloured. The Endeavour sailed from Oheteroa, on tues- day, Aug. 15th. Tupia mentioned other islands lying in various directions; but Lieut. Cook, instead of going out of his course to discover them, determined to proceed on his voyage in search of a southern! continent. On fiiday, Aug. 25th, our navigators celebrated the anniversary of their departure from England; when a good Cheshire cheese was brought forth from the locker, and a cask of excellent porter was broached. Four days after, the boatswain's mate died of intoxication; the boatswain having unfortunately, from mere good nature, giventurn parit^ a bottle of rum. It is melancholy, to think, how many brave men lose their lives by the immoderate! nee of ardent spirits. Temperance was one of the virtues that adorned the character of our illustrious navigator; and greatly would it conduce to the GREAT COMETc 5& comfort and safety of all our seamen, did they follow his example. On the 30th, the great comet of that year was observed: its tail subtended an angle of 42°. When Tupia saw it, he instantly cried out, that the people of Bolabola would kill the inhabitants* of Ulietea: the sight of a comet, among the South Sea islanders, as among many other nations, being regarded as portending war and bloodshed. I fp CHAPTER VI. Discovery of New Zealand. Landing in Poverty Bay. Hostile attacks of the natives: some of them killed. Three boys taken on board, and kindly treated. Friendly intercourse with the natives established. Voyage southward to Capo Turnagain, and from thence northward, along the east coast. Various incidents during the Yoyage, and different places visited. Tegadoo—Tolaga—Mercury Bay—River Thames. Attack by the natives in the Bay of Islands. Transactions there. Navigation round the North Cape, and along the west coast to Queen Charlotte's Sound. Incidents there; the New Zealanders found to be cannibals. Discovery of Cook's Strait, dividing New Zealand into two islands. Circumnavigation of both islands completed. Memorials of Cook's discoveries left in that country. Everett's Verses, occasioned by the discovery of one of these memorials by a Missionary. Having proceeded as far as 40° 22' S. latitude, and encountered strong gales, without any signs of land, Lieut. Cook altered his course, advancing in a westerly direction; and after observing several birds, seals, and bunches of sea-weed, which indicated an approach to some shore, land was at last seen from the mast-head, on the 6th of October, by Nicholas Young, a boy; after whom the first headland observed was named Young Nick's Head. Next day, the land was perceived very distinctly; and its aspect differed greatly from that of the islands lately visited. Four or five ranges of hills appeared to rise one above another, with a chain of lofty mountains above all, having part of their NEW ZEALAND. 57 summits covered with snow. Our navigators naturally supposed, that they had at last discovered the terra incognita australis, the great southern continent, so long sought for; but it proved to be Staaten Land, or New Zealand, first seen by Tas- jnan, a Dutch navigator, Dec. 13, 1642, and now for the first time re-discovered. In approaching the shore, on the 7th, and 8th, the hills and valleys were perceived to be generally clothed with woods, containing some trees of an immense size; and from the smoke that arose in various parts, the country was known to be inhabited. Having cast anchor in a bay, which was afterwards named Poverty Bay, the Commander, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and others, went on shore with the pinnace and yawl, at the mouth of a small river. The natives, whom they saw on the banks, fled at their approach; but while the gentlemen were proceeding to visit some huts, four men, armed with long lances, rushed out of the woods towards the yawl, which was left in charge of M$$&\ boys. The cockswain of the pinnace, after calling to the boys to drop down the stream, fired twice over the heads of the men who were pursuing them; but as they persisted notwithstanding in the attack, one of them was shot dead while he was in the act of lifting his spear to dart it against the boat. The other three stood motionles^ as if thunder-struck; and then hastily retreated, dragging their dead companion for a short space. The English upon this, after examining the body, returned on board the ship. Next day, the Commander and his friends landed again, with a strong party of seamen and marines, 58 cook's first voyage. and addressing the natives through Tupia, whose language was found to be the same as theirs, though a different dialect, endeavoured to engage them in a friendly trade. Some of them coming near, received presents of beads and nails, of which last they knew not the use. When some of them attempted to seize the arms of the British, Tupia warned them of the consequences; yet presently after, one of them snatched away Mr. Green's hanger, and ran off with it, waving it in triumph. Mr. Banks fired at him with small shot; upon which he retreated further, still waving the stolen weapon. Mr. Monkhouse then shot him dead, and with some difficulty secured the hanger, from other natives who ran to seize it. Some more small shot was fired, before the other warriors retired up the country. Disappointed in these attempts to establish a friendly intercourse with the natives, the Commander resolved, if possible, to surprise some of them, and take them on board, that by presents and kind treatment,* Me might gain their friendship, and by their means open a correspondence with tfeeir countrymen. Accordingly, when he had quitted the shore, he placed the three boats so as to intercept two canoes that were coming in from the sea. One of them was rapidly paddled towards the shore, and escaped; and the seven people on board the other> boldly resolved to fight, rather than surrender; although a musket had been fired oyer their heads to frighten them, and Tupia had given them assurances of safety, if they came along-side as friends. When the Commander's fton& came up, they began a furious attack with paddles, stones, and other weapons; and the Brit- NEW ZEALAND. POVERTY BAY. 59 ish firing in self defence,dkur were unhappily shot: the other three, who were youths, leaped into the water, but were taken*. Lieut. Cook deeply.Regretted this unexpected slaughter, and acknowledged that it could not be defended on the principles of justice and humanity; as these poor creatures did not deserve death for refusing to confide iri>strang- ers. But in taking this step he was not aware that it would occasion such blood-shed; and he was extremely anxious to geto some of the natfrsafe in his power, to convince them, and their countrymen, of his friendly intentions. The captives, when taken on board expecting nothing but death, were overjoyed toi find thenar selves treated; with kindness. Tbs£y were clothed and fed; and Tupia took great pains to comfort and cheer them. In the evening, they so far recovered their spirits, as to sing onnf of their songs : the air was soteian, likeud Psalm tune, and performed with considerable taste and skill. Next morning, they were dressed, and adorned with bracelets, anclets, and necklaces; and were delighted to, team that they were to be set on shore: but when the boat;made for the landing place near the river, they intreated that they- might no&be set ashore there, as the inhabitants were their enemies: who would kill and eat them; and theyipointed to another part of the bay as their own home. It was necessary, however, to: land near th® river, as a party had gone: thither to cut wood: but when a large body of tfoe natives came down towards the beach, the boys suddenly quitted the bushes to which they-had retired, and claimed the prbifectiaDt) of their English friends. When th&xlattesw^rj&i about to reimbar-&, lest a new quarrel/taiKfeladiher J 60 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. bloodshed, should take place; the youngest of the boys espied his uncle among the natives, and begged his protectors to stay and talk with them. The river being between the parties, a parley commenced by means of Tupia. The three boys shewed their countrymen the ornaments which they had received; and then going to the body of the man who was killed the day before, lying near them on the beach, they covered it with a part of the clothes that had been given them. Upon this, the boy's uncle swam across, bringing a green branch, which was received by the hands of Tupia; and many presents were given him in return. He declined an invitation to go on board the ship, and was left on the beach; where, having pulled another green branch, he laid it on the dead body, with much ceremony: and the body was afterwards carried off by the natives on a kind of bier. All this being considered as a ratification of peace, the boys, who had preferred embarking with their new friends, consented after dinner to be put ashore; and although, on being landed, they still shewed a reluctance to part with the English, they were afterwards observed among the natives unhurt; and were seen to come down and wave their hands Aree times towards the ship, after which they retired with several companions in the direction of their home. Next day, four men came on board from a canoe, and afterwards many others; all of whom were treated with presents, while some also engaged in trade, selling their clothes, paddles, and weapons, for articles on board. They stated, that the three boys were safe at home, and that they themselves had been encouraged to come on board, by hearing «, 1 NEW ZEALAND. 61 of the kind treatment which the boys had received. They invited the Commander to return into the bay, which he was now leaving; but he chose rather to proceed southward along the coast, in quest of a better harbour, and to make further researches. When the canoes departed, three men were accidentally left behind; and they were so far from feeling uneasy, that they entertained the ship's company with dancing and singing. Next morning, however, they were in great consternation, and uttered loud wailings, with many tears, when they found that the ship had carried them so far from home. But two canoes having approached, they invited the people to come alongside and receive them, assuring their countrymen, that the strangers in the ship did not eat men. In one of the canoes was a chief, who came on board, handsomely dressed, and having a patoo-patoo, a short weapon like a battledoor, made of bone, instead of the usual material, green talc, or jade. The three men went away with him, to the satisfaction of all parties. In coasting along, our navigators observed several patches of cultivated ground; and saw also some fortified towns, inclosed with high rails, situated on detached rocks, or other strong positions. The natives, at different points, came off in canoes; but generally kept at a distance. On the 14th, five large canoes, with 80 or 90 armed men on board, approached the ship, and began to sing their war song, and brandish their spears for action. Tupia informed them, that there were weapons on board, which would, like thunder, destroy them in a moment, if they persisted in any hostile attempt; and a shot being then fired wide of them, they were so alarmed at the flash, the report, and the sight of I 62 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. the grape-ihot spreading far in the water, that they paddled off in great terror. Tupia called to them to come unarmed, and they would be kindly treated; and the people of one canoe, leaving their arms Mi; another, accepted the invitation, and received some presents. Next day, several canoes came off, and sold fish and other articles; but when Tayeto, Tupia's boy, was over the ship's side, among others, handing up what was bought, one of the New Zealanders suddenly seized him, and dragged him down into the canoe, inhere two men held him, while the rest plied their paddles vigorously, the other canoes following with all speed. The marines being ordered to fire into the canoe, one man dropped, and the rest quitting their hold of Tayeto, he leaped into the sea, and swam towards the ship; and some muskets and a great gun being fired at the canoe which turned to pursue him, he escaped on board. After recovering from his fright, the little boy brought a fish to Tupia, as an offering to his "Eatua, or god, in gratitude for his preservation; and Tupia, commending his piety, directed him to throw it into the sea. It were well if all seamen, on obtaining signal deliverances, shewed equal gratitude to the true and living God.—Some of the gentlemen, who looked after the canoes with their glasses, saw three men carried up the beach from them, either dead or severely wounded. The cape where this unhappy event occurred, was named Cape Kidnappers. Having proceeded along the coast as far as 40° 34', S. latitude, the Commander, on tuesday, Oct. 18th, seeing no appearance of a good harbour, and the aspect of the country growing manifestly worse, turned back to examine the more northerly parts NEW ZEALAND.—TEGAD00. 63 of the coast; giving the name Cape Turnagain to the last point of land then observed. On Wednesday, two chiefs came on board from a canoe, and being very kindly treated, as they had heard others had been, resolved to stay all night in the ship, together with their servants; their canoe being hoisted on deck. Next morning, when they took their departure, they were surprised to find themselves so far from home. On the 20th, the Endeavour anchored in a bay called Tegadoo, to the north of Poverty Bay; aj^-during two days spent there, the natives shewed much friendship, and traded honestly with fish and sweet potatoes. Plantations of the latter, and of coccos and gourds, inclosed with fences of reeds, were visited by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. The natives lived chiefly on fish, with fern roots for bread. They had no animgils but dogs, which, like the Tahitians, they used for food. The men, at least the chiefs, had their faces, as well as various parts of their bodies, tatto&ed, in spiral lines. The faces of the women, and of some of the men, were besmeared with a mixture of red ocre and oil, which was transferred to the noses of such as saluted them. The natives of both sexes were generally dressed in cjojlfk made of the New Zealand flax, sometimes ornamented with pieces of the skins of dogs or of seals. They were more fierce than the Tahitians, but did not disgrace themselves by the sante lasci- viousngss, and appeared remarkably vigorous and healthy* It was noticed as a token of their cleanliness, that every cluster of houses had a temple of Cloacina. In the afternoon of the 21st, while the bglgjs were employed in getting water, Mr. Banks and his party, who were very successful in collecting: j 64 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. I plants and rare birds, engaged a canoe to take them on board. In their first embarkation, they overset their frail barge in the surf, but eventually they all reached the ship in safety. On the 22nd, Lieut. Cook removed into another bay called Tolaga, a little to the southward; which was pointed out by the natives as more convenient for his purpose. Here the Endeavour anchored for a whole week, taking in copious supplies of . water, wood, and excellent celery. The armourer's forge was set up, to repair the iron work; a friendly trade was carried on with the natives; their houses, fortresses, and canoes were examined; one of the latter being very large, measuring 68 ft. in length; their military exercises were exhibited, and their hideous* war-song chanted. The plants, and natural curiosities of the place, were also carefully observed; particularly some singular perforated rocks. On monday, Oct. 30th, our navigators proceeded on their voyage.' In their progress northward, for some days, several canoes, full of armed men, came off at different points, and threatened an attack; but the firing of a shot or two quickly dispersed them. The country appeared more populous, as they proceeded; and the number and size of the canoes that came off, increased. On Saturday, Nov. 4th, the Endeavour anchored in a bay that was named Mercuiy Bay, from the observation of the transit of Mercury there, on thursday the 9th. During ten days spent here, good supplies of mackerel and other fish were obtained; partly by hauling the seine, but chiefly by purchase. Oysters and other shell-fish were also plentiful; and wild fowl, particularly shags and ducks. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander made great additions to NEW ZEALAND.—MERCURY BAY. 65 their collections of plants. The intercourse with the natives was for the most part friendly; opportunities were enjoyed of seeing their strong-holds, and witnessing an exhibition of their mode of attack and defence. On the 9th, however, while Lieut. Gore had the charge of the ship, a man who sold him an article of native dress for a piece of British cloth, paddled off with the cloth without delivering the article; a species of fraud which had been successfully practised by several of the natives : and Mr. Gore was so provoked by the insolent manner in which the fellow held up the cloth, and bid him defiance, that he shot him dead. The Commander regretted, that the effect of small shot had not been tried in this instance, as it had succeeded in others. Yet the natives made no attempt to revenge his death, regarding it as the just punishment of his crime. After taking formal possession of the country in the name of His Majesty, our navigators sailed from Mercury Bay, on Wednesday, Nov. 15th, and proceeded along the coast. An old chief, called ToiaVa, was very useful to them while in the bay; and his name was of service to them on other parts of the coast. The services of Tupia also continued to be very efficient: he remonstrated very eloquently with those natives who, from time to time, approached the ship with hostile intentions. On the 18th and 19th, a large river was discovered, which from its resemblance to London river, was denominated the Thames. Here the vessel remained a few days, while observations were making on the coast, and up the river; on the banks of which were some trees of immense size, one of them measuring about 20 ft. in girth, and 89 ft. from the root 6 /F 66 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE, to the first branch. The natives were very friendly: they knew Toiava, and had heard of Tupia, whom they addressed by name. They traded fairly, and for the most part behaved well: but on the 22nd, a young man who was on deck, being detected in stealing a minute glass, was punished with twelve lashes, by order of Lieut. Hicks, then in command. This gave great offence to the natives, and they entirely deserted the ship. On the 24th, the Endeavour sailed from the river Thames, proceeding to the west and north, according to the direction of the coast. The natives came off in canoes, at various points; and sometimes gave annoyance by hostile demonstrations, or by dishonesty in trading; so that it was necessary, in some instances, to frighten them with fire arms, as well as to employ Tupsa's remonstrances. But nothing serious occurred till Wednesday the 29th, when the ship was at 'anchor in a bay among many Islands, from which the place was named the Bay of Islands. The Commander, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went with the ipianace and yawl, manned and armed, to an island'near the ship. When they were on shore in a cove, the natives who had been visiting the vessel in many canoes, landed on the island also, and crowded ■around the cove, to the number of two or three fiundred. After remaining quiet for a time, a party of them ran to each boat, to draw it on ■shore, while the rest began to press in upon Mr. Cook ajttd his friends. Upon this, he and Mr. Banks, with two men, fired on them with small shot; which made them retreat in confusion. One of their ohiefs tried to rally them, rushing forward with hfe patoo-patoo ; but on the discharge of Dr. NEW ZEALAND.—BAY OF ISLANDS. 67 Solander's piece, this champion ran off with the rest; and a few shots being soon after fired from the ship over their heads, they were wholly dispersed. " In this skirmish," says Capt. Cook, <e only two of the Indians were hurt with the small shot, and not a single life was lost; which would not have been the case, if I had not restrained the men; who, either from fear, or the love of mischief, shewed as much impatience to destroy them, as a sportsman to kill his game." This was not Hie only instance, in which the humanity and prudence of our great navigator saved many lives* Having gathered some celery in the cove, the Commander and his friends proceeded to examine a cave in the rocks, when an old chief came forth, with his wife and brother, and in a suppliant tone begged for protection. They spake kindly to him, and made him some presents; and when he expressed great solicitude for another brother who had been wounded, they assured him that he would recover. From the top of a hill, in the same island, they enjoyed an extensive view of the bay, which was uncommonly romantic and interesting; being filled with innumerable islands, forming as many harbours, where the water was as smooth as a mill-pond. Numerous towns, houses, and plantations were also in sight, the country being mor^ populous than any part of the coast hitherto visited. Friendly intercourse, and fair trade, were carried on with numbers of the inhabitants, during some days, while the ship was detained here by calms and contrary winds. As some of the natives had been punished for theft, so it was necessary at this place to punish three of the ship's crew, who had broken into a plantation, and dug up some m COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. potatoes; for the Commander resolved to dispense equal justice to New Zealanders and Britons. The Bay of Islands, then for the first time visited by Europeans, has since been the scene of many interesting transactions. Of late years, it has been distinguished as the principal seat of Christianity in New Zealand. Here the first sermon in that country was preached, in 1814, by the Rev. S. Marsden, A.M., senior Chaplain in New South Wales; and through his zealous exertions, and the faithful and persevering labours of the Ministers and Catechists employed by the Church Missionary Society, much progress has been made in christianizing and civilizing the rude inhabitants. In quitting the Bay of Islands, on tuesday, Dec. 5th, the Endeavour was in great danger of driving ashore, being within a cable length of the breakers; and after escaping this danger, she actually struck on a rock, but providentially went off without receiving the slightest damage. Encountering stormy weather in his progress along the coast, Lieutenant Cook did not reach the North Cape till the 17th: and after standing off and on for about a week at the northern extremity of the country, the land first seen by Tasman, he proceeded southward, along the west coast; where the country, in many places, appeared desolate and barren. On monday, Jan. 15th, 1770, the Endeavour, after much sailing, was brought to an anchor in a cove on the N. W. side of a spacious bay, which was named Queen Charlotte's Sound; and remained there three weeks. Here wood and water were had in abundance, with a copious supply of excellent fish ; the armourer's forge was set up, for repairs; and the vessel was careened. Mr. Banks NEW ZEALAND.—Q. CHARLOTTE'S SOUND. 69 and Dr. Solander enjoyed themselves in botaniz- • ing, and the Commander in surveying the adjacent coasts. In this task he engaged with his wonted diligence and zeal, searching every bay and cove, examining every island and rock, and ascending the hills in different places, to take the general bearings of the land, and make remarks on the grand features of the country. In the mean time, our navigators had much fair trade and friendly intercourse with the natives; which nothing occurred to interrupt, except that, on January 21st, which, being sunday, was very improperly given to the crew as a holiday, to spend in amusement, one of the officers approaching a heppah, or village, with a boat, and seeing some New Zealanders coming in canoes to visit him, imagined that their intentions were hostile, and firing three muskets, wounded some of them. Among those who visited the ship, was an old man named Topaa, who was particularly friendly and serviceable. Through him, as well as by other means, indubitable proof was obtained, that the New Zealanders Had found a secret out, which birds or beasts, Most cruel, cunning, treacherous, never knew, — The luxury of devouring one another. It was their practice to roast and eat the bodies of their enemies slain in battle. Seven men had lately been devoured by the people near the cove; some of their bones were seen and examined, the natives acknowledged having eaten the flesh, and one of them gnawing a bone, and drawing it through his mouth, made signs that it had afforded! COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. a delicious repast. The heads of the slain men were not eaten, except the brains; but were cured and preserved as trophies. Four of them were brought on board by Topaa, and Mr. Banks purchased one as a curiosity, while others procured specimens of the bones. This was the commencement of a traffic which has since been carried on so extensively, that almost every Museum in Britain contains a New Zealand chiefs head. Three specimens, finely tattooed, are in the Whitby Museum. During their stay in Queen Charlotte's Sound, the ship's company had abundant supplies of fish, celery, and other refreshments; and early every moflaing, were gratified with the wild melody of myriads of birds, which sounded like small bells exquisitely tuned. On tuesday, February 6th, the Endeavour left Queen Charlotte's Sound, and after escaping imminent danger, in clearing some rocks, where the tide formed a rapid current, proceeded in a S. E. direction, to the entrance of a strait, which had been seen by the Commander from the tops of .the mountains, and was found to divide New Zealand into two large islands. Through this strait, henceforth called Cook's Strait, our navigators passed; and the Commander then sailed in a N. E. direction, till he was in sight of Cape Turnagain, which Bad been observed in coasting southward on the other side of the island; and thus he convinced all on board, that they had circumnavigated an island, of which some of his officers had previously expressed a doubt Altering his course to the southward, Lieut Cook tsarcumnavigated also the whole of the south- NEW ZEALAND. 71 em division of New Zealand, doubling the South Cape, and returning northward along the west coast, till he reached the vicinity of Queen Charlotte's Sound. In making this circuit, which proved that this country was no part of the expected southern continent, all the skill and vigilance of our great navigator were required, to shun the dangers arising from numerous rocks and shoals on the coast, and encounter the difficulties occasioned by unfavourable winds, and boisterous weather. In this circumnavigation, he sometimes gave way to the opinion of the officers on board, sailing in a direction where they thought they saw land, while he was sure there was none: but when many advised him to enter a cove or harbour on the west side of the island, he decidedly refused, perceiving from the. steep and lofty rocks which formed the entrance, that the wind there must either blow right out, or right in; and that although they might then easily enter, it might be a month before they could get a wind to bring them out., Several islands were discovered towards the $QUsth Cape, to one of wMch was given the name Banks, while another was called Solander. The whole GQjomtry of New Zealand was found to lie between 34 and 48° of S. latitude, and between 181 and 194° of W. longitude. The smtbew division was more barren, and more thinly inhabited, than the northern; and a good part of the interior was then covered with snow. On the 27th of March, the Endeavour entered a bay, which was named Admiralty Bay, about ten leagues N.W. of Queen Charlotte's Sound; and having taken in a supply of wood and water, was ready to sail on the 31st. COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. In his intercourse with the natives, Lieut. Cook discovered, that the New Zealanders were divided into several independent tribes, or states. Along a great part of the east coast, the inhabitants acknowledged a chief called Teratu for their king; but his authority did not extend to the Bay of Islands, nor to Queen Charlotte's Sound ; nor was the one of these places dependant on the other. To preclude the claims or pretensions of future navigators, Cook was careful to leave, in various parts of New Zealand, memorials of his discovery. In Mercury Bay, the name of the ship, and that of the Commander, with the date, were cut on one of the trees near the watering place; while the British flag was displayed, and the country formally taken possession of, in the name of King George III. The same ceremony was observed at Queen Charlotte's Sound; where also two posts, with the names and dates as before, were set up, one near the watering place, and the other on the highest part of the adjacent island of Motuara, At this last, a bottle of wine was drunk to the health of her Majesty; and the empty bottle, with other articles, joyfully received by the old chief, Topaa. On the main land, two small pyramids of stone were erected on two different hills; and balls, beads, coins, and other European articles deposited in them. Yet these were not the only memorials left in New Zealand, to record the visit of our illustrious navigator: another was observed about seventeen years ago, by the Rev. Samuel Leigh, under circumstances particularly interesting. This gentleman, connected with the Wesleyan Missionary Society, who commenced a Mission in New Everett's verses. 73 Zealand in 1822, paid a previous visit to the Bay of Islands, and other places in the northern part of that country, in 1818; and in one of his walks near the shore, he was delighted to meet the name COOK inscribed on a rock. When Mr. Leigh, on his return to England, related the circumstance, the recital produced the following beautiful verses from the pen of his friend, the Rev. James Everett, now of Newcastle, which he has entitled the missionary and the mariner. As once around the Hebrew sage, Sole monarch of their den, The lions, crouching, still'd their rage, Till then unawed by men; So Leigh, upon New Zealand's shore, Calm and intrepid stood, 'Midst cannibals, untamed before, And hot from scenes of blood; For angels—answers to his prayer,— And God,—-even Daniel's God,—were there. No Briton's foot to guide was found, No British voice to cheer; Each face was strange, as strange the sound That fell upon his ear : But, while he mused along the strand,— Upon a rock sublime He traced the carvings of some hand, Left legible by time: When forth with quicken'd step he flew, —A known inscription met his view. yi 74 cook's first voyage. 'Twas not the hand that once appear'd, Appalling Babel's King; 'Twas not the language to be fear'd, When death is on the wing; But to the Briton, doom'd to roam, A hand stretch'd o'er the seas. Language that rapt his spirit home, Like music on the breeze; The name of Cook that mountain bore, The date when first he trod the shore. J The bold adventurer seem'd to rise In vision to his sight, And with a voice as from the skies, Inspir'd him with delight:— " An ocean-ranger was my lot, " With Britain's flag unfurl'd, " The guide to many a desert spot, f While sailing round the world: * 'Tis yours to preach,—your Lord display, " And Baptist-like, prepare his way." No written words, from Nature's birth, In Zealand could be shewn, Till Britons, grasping sea and earth, Engraved them deep in stone; And in that language, deeper still, And brighter far shall shine Celestial Truth,-—Jehovah's will, In characters divine. And letters first on granite spread, Till Nature's exit shall be read. EVERETT S VERSES. These "stones cry out" in Britain's praise, Far o'er the ocean's wave; The mariners their voices raise, Though slumbering in the grave: The name of Cook,—and but the name, His eulogy contains ; 'Tis like the hallowed trump of Fame, O'er mountains, seas, and plains; And roeks, uprear'd by Nature's hand, fc His monumental piles shall stand. And Leigh, thy name like his shall liv£,— Survive the lightning's shock, Though Time should his erasure give Those carvings of the rock; The word of God shall be proclaim'd, And David's harp be strung, The human savage sweetly tam'd, And converts, old and young, As " living stones," shall build sublime Thy monument of praise through time. J CHAPTER VII. j East Coast of New Holland discovered, and traced northward. Landing at Botany Bay, and transactions there. Savage state of the,natives. Bustard Bay examined. Landing at Thirsty Sound. The Endeavour strikes on a rock, is got off with great difficulty, and carried into Endeavour River to repair. Transactions at that place, observations on the country, and intercourse with the natives. Repairs of the ship completed. Delay occasioned by contrary winds, and the difficulty of finding a good channel for the ship. When about to quit the shores of New Zealand, Mr. Cook was desirous of returning home by way of Cape Horn, keeping a high southern latitude, in order to determine, whether there was any great southern continent or not; a question which he had the honour to set at rest in aJiiture voyage : but after consulting with his officers, and weighing the dangers of such a navigation, he finally resolved to steer for the east coast of New Holland, and then follow that coast northward, as far as practicable, with a view to make a passage home by the East Indies. It was on the 31st of March that the Endeavour sailed from New Zealand, on a westerly course; and on the 19th of April, the coast of New Holland was seen by Lieut. Hicks, from whom the first promontory observed was named Point Hicks, lying in 38° S latitude, 211° 7' W. longitude. No land was seen to the south of it. From thence die ■\ NEW HOLLAND.—BOTANY BAY. 77 Commander proceeded northward, following the general direction of the shore, at the distance of a few leagues; and marking, with his usual accuracy, the principal headlands, bays, islands, and other features of the coast. The land was for the most part flat; and by the smoke and fires, observed in various places, was known to be inhabited. On the 27th, an attempt was made to land at a spot where a few natives were seen, with small canoes : but the surf was so great, that the boat could not effect a landing. On the 28th, our navigators anchored in a bay, which, from the abundance of new plants it afforded, was named Botany Bay. Here several natives appeared on the beach, armed with long lances, which they threw by means of a short stick. Some were also seen in canoes made of bark, and were so eagerly employed in striking fish with their spears, that they took no notice of the ship when she passed them. The whole were stark naked, both men, women, and children; and their bodies were observed to be stained, several of them being marked with broad white streaks. When the Commander and his friends approached the shore in their boats, well manned, all the natives fled, except two; and these had the courage to oppose the landing of the strangers, forty in number. They uttered threats in a harsh dissonant language, which even Tupia could not understand; and brandished their weapons, to defy the invaders. Lieut. Cook, admiring their boldness, and loath to hurt them, made the boat lie on her oars, while he tried to pacify the savages, by throwing them small presents, and making signs to them that he did not mean to hurt them, but only wanted water for his ft 1, COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. people. They took up the presents, and seemed pleased; and when, after the lapse of a quarter of an hour, they waved their hands, this was understood as an invitation to land. But when the boats came to the shore, the two champions again opposed the landing; and the Commander, to quell their courage, fired a musket between them. Startled, but not defeated, one of them threw a stone at the boat; when another musket was fired, and wounded the legs of the oldest with small shot. Even then, instead of relinquishing the unequal contest, he ran to one of the nearest huts, to bring a shield or target, made of bark; and both advancing, darted their lances at the strangers. Another musket with small shot being fired, they threw one lance more, and then ran away. The party having landed, looked into the huts, which, like those of Terra del Fuego, were of the rudest construction, oven-shaped, and formed with bent rods, or boughs of trees, covered with palm leaves, and broad pieces of bark. It was afterwards ascertained, that the natives often slept among the grass, in the open air. Some children were seen in one hut, concealed behind pieces of bark; but they were not disturbed. Beads, ribbons, and other articles, were left for the natives ; but about 50 of their spears, from 6 to 15 feet long, each armed with four prongs, were carried on board. While parties were employed in cutting grass, and getting wood and water, the Indians sometimes gazed on them at a distance; but though invited by many friendly signs, they would not -come near. They did not, however, venture to attack the British; except that, on one occasion, when Mr. Monkhouse and two or three more marched up to a body of BOTANY BAY. 79 them, and seeing them keep their ground, were seized with a sudden panic, and hastily retreated, four of tiie natives pursued, and threw their lances with such fece, that they flew over the heads of the fugitives. A lance was also thrown from a thicket at the surgeon, when he and another had strayed &om their party. At other times, even when they had the advantage, they offered no violence; being perhaps overawed by what they had seen of the effects of our fire-arms in shooting birds. Many parrots, loriquets, quails, &c, were shot by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and others. Tupia, who had become a good marksman, took a share in this sport; and in one of his shooting excursions, when he met with nine of the natives, they fled from him in terror. Short journeys were made into the interior, on various days. The country was found to be thinly inhabited. Beads, combs, and other trinkets, were left for the natives in different spots; although it was noticed with regret, that the articles left in the huts near the beach, remained there untouched. During their stay here, the ship's crew were refreshed with plentiful supplies of fish, of various sorts; among others, a large species of sting-ray, one of which weighed 336 ft). Quantities of oysters, muscles, and other shell-fish, were also obtained. A seaman named Forby Sutherland having died, was buried here, May 1st, near the watering- place. From him the south point of the bay was called Sutherland Point. In giving name to this laay, and to Port Jiackson, which was afterwards seen a little to the north; and in taking formal possession of the country, displaying the British flag, and inscribing the ship's name FIRST VOYAGE. &c, on a tree near the watering-place, the Commander little thought, that the spot which he occupied, then the habitation of the rudest savages, was destined to become the chief seat of an important British colony;—perhaps the commencement of a mighty Australian empire, where arts, commerce, science, and religion, should hereafter flourish. On May 6th, at day break, the Endeavour sailed from Botany Bay: and in coasting along, the country was seen to be richly diversified with hills and dales, ridges and plains, all clothed with wood; while the shore in front was generally low and sandy. After sailing for some days, our navigators observed, that the land became gradually more elevated, and many lofty hills appeared. Inhabitants were seen at various points; and some who were at no great distance from the ship, instead of gazing with astonishment at its unwonted form and size, seemed to let it pass by them unheeded. On Wednesday, May 23rd, the Commander, with the scientific gentlemen, and Tupia, went ashore in a bay, which was named Bustard Bay, from a large bird of that kind, which was there shot, and enjoyed as a luxury. They found a channel leading into a large lagoon, with mangroves growing on the banks. Quantities of oysters, many of them pearl oysters, were found. Some natives appeared, but kept at a distance. Their lodging places, where they had spent the night in the open air, like other commoners of nature, were visited; and on viewing their miserable accommodations, even Tupia shook his head, with an air of conscious superiority, and exclaimed, Taata enos, 4 poor wretches!" A remarkable gum-tree was found here, and on many other parts of the coast. THIRSTY SOUND. 81 Our navigators, on the 25th, reached the tropic of Capricorn, from which a cape lying directly under it was named. The 29th and 30th were spent at an inlet called Thirsty Sound, as it afforded no fresh water. Short excursions were made into the country, but the travellers were annoyed with musquitos, and with bearded seeds of a kind of grass, which stuck in their clothes like burs, and penetrated to the flesh. They saw some huge ants' nests, made of clay; and found another species of ants lodging in the branches and twigs of trees, occupying the place of the pith, which they had extracted or destroyed. Millions of butterflies were also seen ; and a singular little fish like a minnow, which, by a spring on its pectoral fins, leaped along the beach like a frog. None of the natives appeared ; but their fires were found in different spots, with shells and bones of fish near them. While the naturalists were engaged in their favourite pursuits, our indefatigable navigator climbed a hill, to take views and bearings of the coast; which it was now become dangerous to explore, owing to the myriads of islands, rocks, and shoals, with which it was skirted. In proceeding from Thirsty Sound, to the northward, he observed and named many capes, bays, and islands. One bay he called Cleveland Bay, and the east point of it Cape Cleveland, in honour of the district where he was born; while the west point, that looked like an island, was named Magnetical Isle, as it affected the compass; which was the case with several of the rocky isles along the coast. Natives were seen in various spots, and at one island was a canoe with an outrigger, much better made than the bark canoes of Botany Bay. On thursday, June 7th, 7 I Lieut. Hicks, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, landed on an island, to procure what appeared to be cocoa nuts; but the tree was found to be the cabbage palm. When they had put off from the shore to return on board, an Indian shouted to them with a loud voice; but on their putting back to see him, he disappeared. Hitherto our voyagers had met with nothing material to interrupt their progress, in exploring this dangerous coast; but after tracing it through the space of 1300 miles, and arriving at 16° 6' S. latitude, they at last met a point of land which they had reason to name Cape Tribulation. They were steering along, among rocks, shoals, and islands, in a clear moonlight night, being the evening of sabbath, June 10th, when, at supper time, the water suddenly shoaled from 21 fathoms, to 12, 10, and 8. All hands were instantly ordered to their stations, with a view to put about and cast anchor; but the water deepening again to 20 fathom, the gentlemen went to bed. Their rest, however, was very brief; for a few minutes before 11, the water again suddenly shallowed, and presently after the ship struck, and remained immovable, except by the heaving of the surge, beating her against the rocks. In a few moments, all hands were on deck, and every countenance was marked with horror. Yet their fears did not prevent their making immediate exertions to avert or mitigate the danger. The sails were all taken in, and the boats hoisted out to examine the depth of water all round the skip. The result of this examination augmented their fears; for the vessel was found to have been lifted over a ledge of rock, and was lying in a hollow, within it An anchor was carried out astern, CAPE TRIBULATION. 83 Where the water was deepest, and their whole force was applied to the capstern, to get the ship off in that direction; but the effort was fruitless; and the ship's bottom continuing to beat against the rocks, her sheathing boards, and at last her false keel, were seen floating away; so that her speedy destruction seemed inevitable, especially as the grating of the rock under her starboard bow was distinctly heard in the fore store-room. It being high water, there was no hope of her floating off with a rising tide; yet it was some consolation that, when the tide fell, she settled to the rocks, and beat less violently. A hope also remained, that by lightening the vessel, she might be got off next tide; for which purpose strenuous efforts were now made. The water was started, and pumped up; the six guns that were on deck, the iron and stone ballast, the decayed stores, and other heavy materials, were speedily thrown overboard, ev@jp one exerting himself with an alacrity almost approaching to cheerfulness. It was observed, that the men were so far impressed with a sense of their situation, that not an oath was heard among them; the habit of profaneness, however strong, being instantly subdued by the dread of incurring guilt when death seemed to be so near. It is not surprising that, in the immediate prospect of appearing at the bar of God, men should refrain from this heaven-daring sin: the wonder is, that any person endowed with reason and conscience, should ever presume to trifle with the name of the Almighty Creator. This detestable habit, as Dr. Kippis jaistly terms it, should least of all be expected among mariners, who are " in deaths oft," | in jeopardy every hour." It is gratifying to know, that in this respect, as in many others, the morals of our seamen are materially improved since the days of Cook. At daybreak on monday the 11th, our distressed navigators found their position to be eight leagues from the land, without one intervening island, to afford them a temporary place of refuge, in case of shipwreck. Had there been a gale of wind, the ship would inevitably have gone to pieces; but, through the kindness of Providence, the wind gradually abated, till there was a dead calm. At eleven o'clock the vessel was expected to float; but so much did the day tide fall short of that of the night, that, to their inexpressible concern, she did not float by a foot and a half, although she had been lightened about fifty tons. It was, therefore, necessary to lighten her still more, and to wait for the evening tide, in the hope of then getting her off. But at five o'clock, when the tide began to rise, it was found that the leak had increased to such an alarming degree, that two more pumps were manned, one of which only would work. At nine o'clock the ship righted, but the leak had gained so considerably, that it was feared the ship would sink as soon as she was moved off the rock. While the tide was gradually rising, a season of the most painful suspense was experienced ; for the floating of the ship was anticipated, not as an earnest of deliverance, but as the crisis of a fatal catastrophe. In the event of the ship's going down, the boats could not carry all on shore; many might perish in the struggle for a place in them, at a time when all subordination would cease; and if any reached the shore, they would perish by the hands of savages, or linger out a L CAPE TRIBULATION. 85 wretched existence in a desolate wilderness, without hope, and without comfort. Such were the gloomy prospects of our mariners in that memorable night. But Providence was kinder to them than their fears anticipated. Through vigorous efforts at the capstern and windlass, the ship was floated off into deep water, about twenty minutes after ten, and it was found that the leak did not admit more water than before. Incessant labour at the pump was, however, required, to prevent the leak from gaining; and the men became so exhausted, that they could only work about five or six minutes together, when they threw themselves down on the deck, though a stream of water, three or four inches deep, was running over it from the pumps; and when those who succeeded them had worked their spell, they also threw themselves down, and the others started up to take their place. While they were thus alternately relieving each other, an accident occurred which had well nigh overwhelmed them with despair. When the person who measured the depth of water was relieved, the man who succeeded him took the depth to the outside planking, instead of the inside; so that the water appeared to have gained eighteen inches in a few minutes. Yet the mistake had a happy result, for being presently corrected, a most favourable reaction was produced; the joy that succeeded the horrors of despair, put life and energy into the men, and before eight in the morning, the pumps had gained considerably on the leak. And now, the hope of getting the ship into some harbour being revived, such hands as could be spared from the pumps were employed in taking up the anchors, and putting the vessel into sailing trim : so I 86 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. that, about eleven o'clock, having a breeze from the sea, they were able to sail for the land, with the loss of only an anchor and a cable. Yet the exhausting work at the pumps might have worn out the strength of the men, had not the expedient of fathering the ship been fallen upon by Mr. Monkhouse, the midshipman, who had seen it employed to save a merchant ship in crossing the Atlantic. Assisted by four or five of the people, he took a large studding sail, and slightly stitched to it handfuls of oakum and wool, which he covered with sheep's dung, and hauling it under the ship's bottom by means of ropes, the suction of the water at the leak carried in oakum and wool, which so reduced its size, that it was now easily kept under with a single pump. This gave a fresh spring to the hopes of our mariners; who, instead of proposing to run the Endeavour on shore, and build a small vessel out of her materials, to convey them to the East Indies, as had been in agitation,—were now cheered with the prospect of repairing her, and prosecuting their voyage home in safety. " Upon this occasion,'* says Capt. Cook, " I must observe, both in justice and gratitude to the ship's company, and the gentlemen on board, that, although in the midst of our distress, every one seemed to have a just sense of his danger, yet no passionate exclamations, or frantic gestures, were to be heard or seen, every one appeared to have the perfect possession of his mind, and eveiy one exerted himself to the uttermost, with a quiet and patient perseverance, equally distant from the tumultuous violence of terror, and the gloomy inactivity of despair." There cannot be a doubt, that the courage, coolness, and UL ENDEAVOUR RIVER. 87 presence of mind, displayed by the Commander himself, on this most trying occasion, contributed in no small degree to produce this happy result. When an officer is noisy and blustering, his crew will seldom be in good order; but a calm, intrepid self-possession, will do wonders in maintaining discipline, and inspiring confidence, in seasons of alarm. Proceeding cautiously to the N.W. with their leaky ship, our voyagers passed two small islands, which they called Hope Islands, as they had hoped, or rather wished, tov reach them, in the event of shipwreck. Approaching the main land at different points, in search of a harbour, they discovered one on thursday, the 14th, exactly adapted to their purpose; but the fresh sea breezes blowing hard, they could not enter it till the 17th. On the 18th, a stage was made from the ship to the shore, a tent was erected for those who had begun to be afflicted with the scurvy, among whom were Mr. Green and Tupia. In another tent the ship's stores were deposited; and the fore and main hold being almost emptied, the ship's bow was hauled close ashore, to examine the leak. It was now found, that the rocks had made their way through four planks, damaged three more, and penetrated also into the timbers, so that if the latter had not been very close, the ship could not possibly have been saved. After all, her preservation was owing to a circumstance still more remarkable : one of the holes, which was big enough to have sunk her, had there been eight pumps, instead of three, incessantly going, was in a great measure plugged up by a fragment of the rock, "wstteh after having made the wound, was left sticking in it! The fothering was also found to 88 COOK S FIRST VOYAGE. have stopped those parts of the leak which the stone did not fill up. Thus, by the kindness of Divine Providence, a variety of agents concurred to preserve them. They enjoyed a perfect calm on the rock, although fresh breezes were blowing both before and after; they had a firm Whitby built ship, with close and strong timbers; the process of fothering was thought of, and successfully adopted, in their time of need; and above all, a part of the very rock that pierced their ship, stuck in the hole which it had made, and thus preserved what it had threatened to destroy! Had any one of these advantages been wanting, they must have perished. With respect to the fothering, it is well remarked in the narrative of their approach to the harbour, "In all the joy of our unexpected deliverance, we had not forgotten, that at this time there was nothing but a lock of wool between us and destruction." The smith's forge was set up on shore, to make nails, bolts, &c.; while the carpenters laboured diligently in repairing the ship. In the course of a week, the repairs under the bow were completed; but the ship's bottom under the stern could not be reached, without heaving her down, which was thought impracticable. On a close examination, however, it appeared that, although portions of the sheathing had been rubbed off, the damage there was • not material. While the repairs were going on, the ship's head was so much elevated above the stern, that the water in the hold was thrown backwards, and unfortunately injured a portion of Mr. Banks's valuable collection of plants, which had been removed into the bread-room, as a place of security. ENDEAVOUR RIVER. 89 As it was an arduous task to get the ship's bow hauled on shore, so, when the repairs were finished, considerable difficulty was felt in heaving her off; and it was not until after two or three trials, that this was accomplished with empty casks. In floating her off, it was found that, owing to the straining occasioned by her position, fresh damage had been done. This also being repaired, the stores began to be taken on board, and the ship to be refitted for sea, on thursday, July 5th'; but another month elapsed before she sailed, much time being spent, in looking out for the best channel through the numerous shoals and rocks in the vicinity, and in waiting for a favourable wind. In the mean time, the refreshments which the place afforded, had a happy effect on the health of the ship's company. Some useful vegetables were discovered by Mr. Banks; particularly Indian kale, cabbage palms, a species of beans, and plenty of purslain; all which were liberally used. Good supplies of fish were also procured, and quantities of valuable shell-fish, among which was a very large kind of cockle. During the last month of their stay, several excellent green turtle were taken, which afforded the ship's company many delicious meals. In these refreshments, not excepting the turtle, all on board had an equal share; the meanest seaman having the same fare as the Commander. This plan of distribution was admirably calculated to encourage the men, amidst the dangers and privations of such a voyage. They could not object to share with their officers in every hardship, as they were admired to partake with them in every luxury. Pigeons of various sorts, with some beautiful 90 cook's first voyage. cockatoos, loriquets, and parrots, were found here* That singular animal, the kangaroo, now well known as peculiar to New Holland, was also discovered. It resembles the jerboa, in being formed for leaping, rather than running; the hind legs being remarkably long, and the fore legs very short. Two of them were killed and eaten, and one of them furnished a rich repast. Other new and singular animals were occasionally observed. One day a seaman, who had been rambling in the woods, returned and told that he had seen the devil. "He was," said Jack, I as large as a one gallon keg, and very like it; he had horns and wings, yet he crept so slowly through the grass, that if I had not been afeard, I might have touched him! " This formidable apparition turned out to be a very large species of bat; which certainly had a frightful appearance* although it had no horns. Mr. Banks, in one of his numerous trips into the country, had the good fortune to take an animal of the opossum tribe, a female, with two young ones. On friday, July 6th, he sailed some leagues up the river in a boat, accompanied by Lieut. Gore and three men; and spent the day in examining the country, and its various productions. In the evening they lodged on the banks of the river; but were so annoyed with musquitos, that they could not sleep. Next day, they traversed the country in various directions, and proceeded further up the river, which was soon contracted into a fresh water brook. In the evening, they found a fire burning, which some of *the natives had recently left, and saw near it a number of huts, and some ovens dug in the ground, like those of Otaheite. Notwithstanding their near neighbourhood to the savages, the party laid ENDEAVOUR river. 91 themselves down, and slept soundly on a bed of plantain leaves, spread on a sand bank, with their cloaks for bed clothes, and bunches of grass for pillows! They returned safely in the morning, down the river, favoured by the ebbing tide. Such of the natives as had been seen, having hitherto fled when our people approached them, the Commander resolved to try what could be done by appearing to take no notice of them. This scheme succeeded so well, that when four natives made their appearance on the 10th, two of them approached the ship in a canoe; and at length, invited by friendly signs, came alongside. Presents of cloth, nails, beads, and paper, were received by them with indifference, as they knew not their use; but when a small fish was thrown them, they expressed the greatest joy imaginable, and paddled off to bring their companions, with whom they quickly returned. Some more presents were given them, and they all landed, and were prevailed on to lay aside their lances, and sit down beside Tupia and his friends. They continued here until dinner time, but declined an invitation to dinner. Next morning, three of them returned, bringing with them another, whom they introduced by his name, Yaparico. This man not only had his ears pierced, but a piece of bird's bone thrust through the cartilage that divides the nostrils, and projecting about three inches on each side. This grotesque ornament of the natives, the sailors jocularly called their sprit-sail yard. The rest also had holes in their ears, as well as in the cartilage of the nose; but at this time the holes were empty. They also wore bracelets of plaited hair on their arms; and some were afterwards seen with necklaces of shells. 92 COOK S FIRST VOYAGE. With this love of ornament, they had no idea of wearing clothes; and one of them, to whom part of an old shirt was given, instead of using it to cover his body, tied it as a fillet round his head. At this visit, they brought with them a fish, apparently in return for the one given them the day before. The natives paid several other visits to the ship; but nothing remarkable occurred till the 19th, when no less than ten men came on board. Twelve turtles were lying on deck, and the natives signified that they wanted one; and by looks and gestures, expressed great disappointment and anger when it was refused. Some biscuit was offered one of them; but he snatched it, and threw it overboard in disdain. One of them again applied to Mr. Banks for a turtle, and on being refused, stamped with his foot, and pushed him away in a rage. Repulsed in their successive applications to every officer on deck, they suddenly seized two turtles, and began to drag them towards their canoe; and when ttepy were taken from them and replaced, they repeated the seizure again and again. Baffled in all their attempts, they at last leaped into their canoe in great indignation, and paddled towards the shore. The Commander, with Mr. Banks and -five or six men, getting into a boat, arrived before them, at a place where several seamen were variously employed. As soon as the natives landed, they seized their arms, and before any one was aware of their design, they snatched a firebrand from under the pitch kettle, and making a circuit to the windward of the few things then on shore, set fire to the grass in their way with surprising dexterity; and the grass being tall and dry, blazed with great fury, burnt the wood work at the smith's forge, ENDEAVOUR RIVER. 93 and would have consumed a tent belonging to Mr. Banks, had he not quickly brought some people from the ship to save it. Not satisfied with this revenge, the infuriated savages set fire to the grass, at another spot where a quantity of nets and linen were laid out to dry; but a musket, loaded with small shot, being fired at one of them, they took to flight, and the fire there was extinguished; but where first kindled, it spread far into the woods. The Indians being still in sight, a musket ball was fired among some mangroves near them, upon which they speedily retreated. Some time after, their voices were heard in the woods, and as they seemed to draw near, the Commander, with Mr. Banks and a few more, went to meet them. When the parties came in sight, the savages halted; an old man came to meet the English, and after uttering some unintelligible words, went back to his companions, who then slowly retreated. The Commander's party seized some of their darts, and followed them about a mile; both parties then halted, and the old man again approached, carrying a pointless spear, and performing various ceremonies; when, signs of peace being made in return, he called out aloud to his companions, who having set up their lances against a tree, came forward as friends. The spears that had been taken from them were now returned, and the reconciliation was thus completed. Some presents were given them, and they walked back with the Commander and his friends to the ship, making signs by the way, that they would not burn the grass any more. They remained about two hours near the ship, but would not go on board. A few days after, a man who had strayed from a party collecting Indian 94 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. kale, fell in with four natives broiling a bird and part of a kangaroo at a fire. The man, who was unarmed, had the presence of mind to dissemble his fears, and sat down beside them in apparent good humour. They examined his clothes, hands, and face; but treated him with great civility, and afterwards directed him on his way to the ship. Little could be made of the language of these people; but they were wont to express surprise, by exclaiming, chercau, or cher, tut, tut, tut, tut! After much time spent in selecting the best channel, and waiting for a fair wind, our navigators, on Saturday, August 4th, sailed from the harbour that had so long sheltered them, and which they called Endeavour River. They might have named it Mercy River, in commemoration of their merciful deliverance, and the many mercies here experienced. The journal of the voyage records, that on July 1st, being sunday, the men had liberty to go on shore. That day should have been observed as a day of thanksgiving for their almost miraculous preservation; and doubtless many of them must have been sensible of the special protection which they had enjoyed, and their deep obligations to a merciful Providence. CHAPTER VIII. Difficulties experienced in prosecuting the voyage northward. The Endeavour quits the coast, and passes through the barrier reef into the main sea. Imminent danger of driving against the barrier reef; escape through Providential Channel, and return towards the Coast. Completion of the arduous task of exploring the East Coast of New Holland, or New South Wales. Landing on Possession Island. Voyage through Endeavour Straits towards New Guinea. Hostile behaviour of the Inhabitants of New Guinea. Landing at the Island of Savu. Friendly intercourse with the King, and the Dutch Resident. Refreshments procured. Arrival at Batavia. Repairs of the ship. Prevailing sickness of the ship's company. Death of the Surgeon, of Tayeto, Tupia, and four others. Departure from Batavia. Landing at Prince's Island: supplies procured. Dreadful sickness and mortality on the passage to the Cape of Good Hope. Loss of Mr.Sporing, Mr. Parkinson, Mr. Green, Mr. Monkhouse, and nineteen others. Arrival at the Cape ; and stay there. Departure from the Cape. Death of Mr. Mollineaux. Arrival at St. Helena, and voyage thence to England. Death of Lieutenant Hicks. Arrival at Deal. After moving slowly to the northward for a week, through a labyrinth of shoals, rocks, and islands, the Commander ascending a high island, to look out for the best passage, perceived an outer reef, stretching along the coast, several leagues from the shore, with some openings through it into the main sea. On this island, which from the lizards seen there was called Lizard Island, he spent the evening of the 11th, with Mr. Banks and others; and next day they touched at another island, which they named Eagle Island, having found there an 96 COOKS FIRST^ VOYAGE. eagle's nest with young ones, and seen also an enormous nest, built with sticks on the ground, twenty-six feet in circumference, and two feet eight inches high. In the mean time, the Master, who was employed in searching for an inshore passage, had spent the night on another island. When the parties met on board, it was resolved, that it was better to go out into the open sea, than continue a dangerous course amidst rocks and shoals, amongst which they bad been entangled for almost three months, and had sailed 360 leagues, without once having a man out of the chains heaving the lead! Accordingly, on monday, the 13th, they passed through a channel in the great reef, now known by the name of the barrier reef of New Holland, and just beyond it they had no ground with 150 fathoms. All on board expressed their joy at being once more on the open sea; although their joy was somewhat damped by observing the leaky state of their vessel, which seemed ill able to contend with the mighty billows, now dashing against her. Having sailed three days to the northward, they found themselves, on the 16th, in imminent danger of driving against the great coral reef, over which the waves were beating with tremendous fury; and although the boats were got out ahead to* tow the ship, she was carried within 100 yards of the reef, before her progress was arrested. Even then, destruction would have been inevitable, had not a light breeze sprung up in their favour, just at this crisis of their fate. During another calm, the waves were carrying them rapidly towards the breakers; when the same light breeze providentially returned for their preservation. Soon after, PROVIDENTIAL CHANNEL. 91 they discovered an opening in the reef, through which the Commander resolved, if possible, to carry the ship; but after reaching it with some difficulty, the ebb tide, rushing out of the opening like a mill stream, carried them out to sea for a quarter of a mile, thus placing them in safety for a time, though in the opposite direction. Being still embayed in the reef, the tide of flood soon returning, drove them again into the bight, and they must have forthwith despaired of relief, had not another opening providentially appeared, on reaching which, they were hurried through by the tide with amazing rapidity, and soon found themselves in safety. Thus they escaped the danger which proved fatal to the Pandora twenty years after; and with becoming gratitude, Lieut. Cook named this opening Providential Channel. The mind of man, like human life, is subject to strange vicissitudes: all on board thought themselves happy in regaining a situation, which only three days ago they were so glad to quit. There were no new capes or bays to be seen in the main sea; and the enthusiasm attending a first discovery, made them cheerfully brave every danger, rather than leave unexplored the interesting country which they had the honour to discover. In again prosecuting their voyage to the northward, they proceeded with great caution, as before; carefully marking, as they advanced, the grand features of the coast. At length, to their no small joy, they reached the north point of New Holland, called Carpentaria, on tuesday, August 21st, having thus completed an achievement unparalleled in the annals of navigation. No where was the nautical skill of Capt. Cook displayed to greater 8 98 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. advantage. He had explored this new and dangerous coast from 38° to 10£° S. latitude, being nearly 2000 miles, when reduced to a straight line; and in the greater part of that space, the ship had to thread her way through a labyrinth of shoals, rocks, and islands; often approaching to frightful coral reefs, rising abruptly like a wall. In addition to the pleasure of accomplishing this arduous task, the Commander had now the satisfaction of ascertaining, that New Guinea forms no part of New Holland. At this memorable point of his progress, the Commander, with his friends Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, landed on an island, and climbed a hill, to get a better view of the direction of the coast. Here he hoisted the British colours, and formally took possession of the whole east coast of New Holland, for his Majesty King George III, by the name of New South Wales. Three volleys of small arms were fired, which were answered by the same number from the ship; and in commemoration of this ceremony the island was called Possession Island. The straits through which they were to pass to the westward, were called Endeavour Straits, and a group of islands lying to the northward, Prince of Wales's Islands. Before landing on Possession Island, they saw ten natives, one armed with bow and arrows, the rest with lances; but they all went away when the boat approached. They were all naked; which was the case with some women, seen next morning on the beach. In pursuing their course to the westward, our navigators found, that dangers still awaited them; for the Endeavour narrowly escaped being wreck- ■* ^ NEW GUINEA. 99 ed on a shoal, on Saturday the 25th. Having cleared the shoals, and proceeded for some time in a westerly direction, the Commander stood to the N.W. to fall in with New Guinea, and cam£ in sight of it on the 29th. They sailed along tM coast some days, without seeing any convenient place for approaching the shore. At last, on monday, September 3rd, the Commander, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and nine others, set out ill the pinnace to effect a landing j "but the watgr was so shallow, that they'had to wade about 200 yards to reach the shore, leaving two men in charge of the boat. The land was found richly clothed with trees, among which' they saw the cocoa nut, the plantain, and the breadfruit; As they advanced along the shore, three1 Indian^ ruslf- ed out of the woods with a hideous shout; and while one of them threw something from his hand that blazed like gunpowder, the other two threw their lances at the party, who fired some small shot in return. A third lance being thrown, it was judged proper to fire with ball, which madeibem instantly retreat; and as they ran with great agility, none of them appeared to be seriously wounded. Reluctant to endanger the lives of the savages any further, the Commander and his party returned to the boat, from whence they had a view of from 60 to 100 natives, who had come down to the beach. They appeared to be of the same race as the New Hollanders, and like them were stark naked. Sdm$ muskets Were fired over their heads, and hearing the bullets rustling among the trees, they walked away; and the party returned on board. The Commander was strongly urged by some of the officers, to send a force on shore, to cut down the 100 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. cocoa nut trees for the sake of the fruit; but this proposal he peremptorily rejected, as at once unjust and cruel, since it would have occasioned a sacrifice of life, which the necessity of the case could not warrant. The boat was therefore hoisted in, and they made sail to the westward. In coasting along New Guinea, and proceeding thence towards Java, Lieut. Cook made various observations on the islands and other objects in his rout, correcting the inaccuracies of the charts heretofore published. After passing Timor, and other islands, he arrived on monday, the 17th, at an island, where none was laid down in the charts; and all on board were agreeably surprised, to see, not only houses, fruit trees, and cultivated fields, but numerous flocks and herds, and some people on horseback, one of them in a complete European dress. Lieut. Gore, and afterwards Dr. Solander, went on shore to procure refreshments; but obtained only a few cocoa nuts, for which some linen was given in return. It was supposed at first, that the island, which was inhabited chiefly by Malays, was a Portuguese settlement; but on getting round into a bay, to which the ship was directed, they found a large Indian town, where Dutch colours were hoisted, and three guns fired. It proved to be the island of Savu. On the 18th, Lieut. Gore waited on the Rajah, or King; and informed him, through a Portuguese interpreter, that the ship was a man of war, belonging to Britain, and had sick on board, for whom refreshments were wanted. The King, whose name was A Madocho Lomi Djara,. expressed his readiness to furnish supplies, but stated that he was not at liberty to trade with strangers, without the consent of the Dutch * SAVU. 101 resident. The latter proved to be the European seen from the ship, Mr. Johan Christopher Lange, a native of Saxony; who spoke very civilly to Mr. Gore, and assured him that the British might buy of the natives what they pleased. The King and his attendants, with Mr. Lange, went on board the Endeavour, where they accepted an invitation to dinner. Dr. Solander and Mr. Sporing understanding Dutch, could converse with Mr. Lange, while others on board could talk with some of the natives who spoke Portuguese. The King desiring to have an English sheep, Mr. Cook presented him with the only one left; and on his expressing a wish to have also an English dog, Mr. Banks politely gave him his greyhound. Mr. Lange was presented with a spying glass, which he seemed to covet, They promised to bring down to the beach next day, plentiful supplies of buffaloes, sheep, hogs, and fowls. The King, before going on shore, was gratified with seeing the marines exercise, ancl was much struck with the precision of their movements. The royal party were dismissed with many presents, accompanied to the shore by Mr. Banks and Dr Solander; and were saluted with nine guns, for which three cheers were returned. On the 19th, the Commander, with Mr. Banks and others, went on shore; but they were mortified to find that the promised supplies had not come to the beach. They dined with the King on rice and pork, sitting on mats after the Indian fashion. On various pretences, the sale of refreshments was delayed by Mr. Lange; but at last, through the interest of an old Indian, to whom Lieut. Cook gave a spying glass and a sword, the market was opened; and nine buffaloes, six sheep, three 102 COOK & FIRST VOYAGE. Jjqes, with quantities spf fowls, limes, cocoa nuts, and 4 eggs,J< a§. j fljsp * - several hundred gallon^. of p$m syrup, were procured, on pretty reasonable termsj^ |H14mong the natives of Savu, some remains of the practice of tattooing, so general in the Sou^ Seas, were obseryqd. One of t^he residents here was Mr. Frederick Craigu whose office was to instruct youth in reading, wql^ng, and the principles of Christ-, ianity. He boasted, that there were 600 Christians in that province; yet there was neither minister nor qj^ch on the whole island. The morals of the people wer§,stated, however, to be remarkably correct. Instances of illicit commerce between the sexes were almost unknown, and cases of theft, or revenge, were of rare incurrence. On friday, Sept. 21st, the Endeavour again set sail, on a westerly course; and came in sight of Java in the evening of the 30th. On tuesday, \$f$* 2nd, a boat was sent on shore, and procured some cocoa nuts and plantains for Tupia, who was ¥*$yH ill; and r^o some herbage for the cattle. Two Dutch ships being seen off Anger Point, Lieut. Hicks was sent on board to inquire after news; and learnt, among other things, that the jSwallow, Capt. Carteret, which had not returned to Jjngland when the Endeavour sailed, had been at Batavia about two years ago. On the 3rd, an officer, .came on board, to make inquiries concerning the ship, and its voyage; but, owing to unfavourably j^inds, it was not until tuesday, the 9th, that the Endeavour came to an anchor in Batavia roads. Here tl^y found, ainjpng many other ships, $&-JIarcourt Indiaman, witjb two English private traders; and during their stay, the Earl of Elgin, BATAVIA. 103 Capt. Cook, and the Phoenix, Capt. Black, also anchored in the roads. The Commander and his friends went on shore on the 10th, and were politely received by Mr. Leith, the only respectable English resident; who invited them to dinner, and assisted them in procuring lodgings and supplies. The Lieutenant was afterwards introduced to the Dutch Governor General, who received him courteously, and promised to attend to his wants. A dreadful storm of thunder, lightning, and rain, occurred at night, when a Dutch East Indiaman, having an iron spindle at the maintop-gallant-mast head, was Struck with lightning, and severely injured; while the Endeavour, which was near it, having an electrical chain, sustained no injury. The Endeavour requiring to be thoroughly repaired, for her voyage homeward, she was removed for that purpose to the isle of Onrust; while the gentlemen connected with the expedition had lodgings on shore. The stores were landed on Cooper's Island, close adjoining to Onrtfst. The ship's bottom was found to be in a worse state than was supposed : the false keel was almost all gone, the main keel considerably injured, a great quantity of sheathing torn off, and several planks much damaged. Some of them were so worn, for the length of six feet, as to be only an eighth of an inch in thickness! % How much misery did we escape," says the Captain, " by being ignorant that so considerable a part of the bottom of the vessel was thinner than the sole of a shoe; and that every life on board depended on such a slight and fragile barrier I" Yet, while this discovery demanded special 104 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. gratitude to Providence, for preserving them from shipwreck, they were now exposed to dangers that proved more fatal, and which no skill or caution on their part could shun. When they landed at Batavia, they were all rosy and plump, except Tupia. Even he was in high spirits at first, and walked in his native dress about the streets, where he was taken for Otourou, who came hither with M. Bougainville; while his boy Tayeto danced in extasy, at the sight of the houses, carriages, streets, and people. But in a few days, owing to the insalubrity of the town, situated among rivers and canals, with stagnant and putrid waters, almost every person, both on board and ashore, became afflicted with fever and tertian ague. A tent was set up for the reception of the ship's company, on the 26th; and poor Tupia, who had been lodging with Mr. Banks, desiring to breath a freer air, was conveyed by Mr. Banks, who was then ill himself, to a tent pitched for him on Cooper's Island. Soon after, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Monk- house the Surgeon, were dangerously ill. On the 5th of November, the Surgeon first fell a sacrifice to this fatal climate; which was a serious loss to the ship's company in their present sickness. Dr. Solander was just able to attend the funeral; but Mr. Banks, who had been partly delirious, was confined to bed. On the 9th, they lost poor Tayeto; and Tupia, who loved him with the tenderness of a father, was so affected at the loss, that he died a few days after. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were, by the advice of the Physician, removed into the country; where, under the care of Malay female nurses, whom they bought on purpose, they gradually recovered. By the 14th, the ship was * BATAVIA. 105 found to be thoroughly repaired, very much to the satisfaction of the Commander: but now he himself was taken ill, as well as Mr. Sporing, and a seaman who had attended Mr. Banks; and at this time, not more than ten of the ship's company were fit for duty. The rainy season having commenced about the 26th, the sufferings of our people at Batavia were greatly aggravated. On the 8th of December, the ship being perfectly refitted, and having taken in most of her water and stores, and received the sick on board, ran up from Onrust to Batavia roads; but owing to the sickly state of the men, she was not completely ready to sail till monday, the 24th. On that day, Lieut. Cook took leave of the Governor, through whom he had been supplied with money from the Company's treasury. A dispute arose at that time, about a man who had run away from a Dutch ship, and got on board the Endeavour ; but as indubitable proof was obtained, that the man was a British subject, he was allowed to remain with his countrymen. On tuesday, Mr. Banks and the rest of the scientific gentlemen went on board; and on Wednesday the 26th, the Endeavour sailed; on which occasion, she was saluted by the Earl of Elgin with three cheers and 13 guns, and by the garrison with 14 guns; which salutations were returned, by the help of the swivels on board. During their stay at Batavia, the ship's company lost seven of their number; viz. the Surgeon, three seamen, Mr. Green's servant, Tupia, and Tayeto : and at this time, the number of sick on board amounted to forty. On leaving Batavia, our navigators proceeded towards the Straits of Sunda, the channel between M' 106 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. Java and Sumatra; and were in that channel at the commencement of the year 1771. On the 5th of January, they anchored at Prince's Island, at the further end of the Straits, to procure wood, water, and refreshments for the sick; some of whom were much worse than when they embarked. Here the Commander went on shore, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; and were met on the beach by some Indians, who conducted them to their King. His Majesty received them kindly; but they differed with him about the price of a turtle; yet soon after, they procured a good supply, both of turtle and of water. In the evening of next day, Mr. Banks visited the King*, who was dressing his own supper in his temporary palace in a rice field, where he received the stranger very graciously. Supplies of fish, fowl, deer, and vegetables, were purchased on some following days. On friday, the 11th, Messrs. Banks and Gore visited an Indian town, of about 400 houses, named Samadang, divided by a river, over which they were ferried in canoes. While the people were getting wood and water, an axe was stolen by the natives; but through the influence of the King it was restored. Mr. Banks made him several presents, and took a friendly leave of him on the 13th. Two days after, our navigator quitted the Straits of Sunda, taking his departure from Java Head, and steering direct for the Cape of Good Hope. This was by far the most melancholy part of the voyage. The seeds of disease received at Batavia, soon began to appear in dysenteries and slow fevers. Mr. Banks was for some time among the sick, and his life was despaired of. The ship was nothing better than an hospital, in which those who were CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 107 able to go about, were too few to attend the sick who were confined to their hammocks. Death, at last, began to make fearful havock among the ship's company; so that for some time they had almost every night a dead body to commit to the sea. In the course of about six weeks, they lost Mr. Sporing, Mr. Parkinson, Mr, Green, the boatswain, the carpenter and his mate, Mr. Monkhouse the midshipman, the sailmaker (a drunken old man, the only person not seized with sickness at Batavia), the sailmaker's assistant, the ship's cook, the corporal of the marines, two of the carpenter's crew, a midshipman, and nine seamen; in all, 23 persons, besides the seven lost at Batavia, On friday, March 15th, they, anchored at the Cape of Good Hope. The Commander waited on the Governor, who promised him every thing the country could afford: and a house was immediately provided for the reception of the sick. Great as was the loss of the Endeavour, it was found that other ships had, in the voyage to India, suffered still more. The Houghton Indiaman, then at the Cape, had Jost between 30 and 40 men by sickness, and had many in a helpless condition when she left the Cape for England. Having remained here till the 13th of April, and procured a variety of stores and refreshments, Lieut. Cook got the sick on board, and took leave of the Governor. The vessel moved from the bay on the 14th, but, not having a fair wind, did not finally leave the coast till thursday, the 25th. In the afternoon of that day, they lost the Master, Mr. Robert Mollineux, a young man of good parts, but unhappily given to intemperance, which brought on disorders that shortened his days. It is melancholy 108 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. to think, how many of our brave seamen fall victims to the beastly vice of drunkenness. On the 1st of May, they arrived at St. Helena, where they remained till the 4th, to procure refreshments. From hence they sailed for England, in company with the Portland man of war, and twelve sail of Indiamen. On the 10th, the Commander finding his ship sailing more heavily than any of the fleet, made a signal to speak with the Portland, upon which Capt. Elliot himself came on board; when Lieut. Cook, intimating that he could not keep up with the fleet, gave him in charge a letter to the Admiralty, and a box containing some logbooks and journals. Our navigators, however, did not lose sight of the Indiamen, till the 23rd; and on the same day they lost Mr. Hicks, the first Lieutenant. He died of consumption, from which he was not free on leaving England. Next day, the Commander promoted Mr. Charles Clerke, a worthy young man, to act as Lieutenant in his stead. They continued on their course till the 10th of June, when land, which proved to be the Lizard, was discovered by Nicholas Young, the same boy that first saw New Zealand. On the 11th, they ran up the channel; and on the 12th, at 3 P.M. they came to an anchor in the Downs, and landed at Deal; thus happily arriving in their native country, after an absence of two years, and nearly eight months. CHAPTER IX. Cook is cordially welcomed on his arrival—introduced to the King—raised to the rank of Commander. His Letters to Mr. Walker, giving a summary account of his Voyage. Publication of the authorised narrative of the Voyage, received with much eagerness. A new Expedition planned. Cook's visit to Ayton and Whitby. The Resolution and Adventure engaged for the new Voyage: Captain Cook appointed to the former, and Capt. Furneaux to the latter. Equipment and sailing of the Vessels. Capt, Cook's Instructions delivered to him at Plymouth. The happiness enjoyed by Lieut. Cook, on being safely restored to the bosom of his family, and the' society of his friends, after an absence of nearly three years, may be better conceived than described. But it was not by his kindred and particular friends only, that our great navigator was welcomed to his native country: the whole British public hailed his arrival with joy, and he was every where received with that respect and admiration, which his eminent talents, surprising adventures, and important discoveries, were calculated to command. He was justly regarded as an ornament to his country, and his company was sought by persons of every rank, not excepting royalty itself. A few weeks after his arrival, he was introduced to King George III, and had an hour's conversation with him, during which His Majesty paid him some high and gratifying compliments. And it I .. LIFE OF COOK. was fit that he, who had taken possession of so many countries on His Majesty's behalf, and had acted the part of his representative at the courts of so many Kings of distant islands, should have the honour of an interview with his own Sovereign.^ The Admiralty Board, at which the Earl of Sandwich now presided, expressed their warm approbation of his services; and on the 29th of August, he was raised to the rank of Captain Commander. He expected to be made Post Captain at once, without passing through that intervening stage; and he well deserved to enjoy that distinction ; but a regard to etiquette, and the usual forms of promotion, prevented his being advanced higher for the present. The difference, indeed, was only in rank, not in emolument. His friends who had recommended him to the service which he had so ably performed, particularly Sir Hugh Palliser, must have been delighted to find, that he had not only come up to their high expectations, but far exceeded them. His services in observing the transit of Venus, as well as his connection with those eminent naturalists, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, procured him the esteem and regard of the President and Council of the Royal Society. His papers relating to the transit, with those of Mr. Green, were put into the hands of the Astronomer Royal, for the use of the scientific world. Some time after, Captain Cook prepared a paper * On the flowing of the Tides in the South Sea," which was read before the Royal Society, May 21st, 1772, and is published in the 62nd Volume of the Philosophical Transactions* While thus respected and honoured by his King and country, and admitted to the society of the LETTERS TO MR. WALKER. Ill great and the learned, Captain Cook did not forget or neglect his old friends in the north. His Whitby friend, Mr. Walker, having written him soon after his anival, with kind inquiries concerning his health and success, was favoured with a brief account of his voyage, in two letters, before the publication of his journal. The insertion of these letters will not be deemed a needless repetition: the reader will rather regard them as valuable documents, giving a summary of the events and results of his first voyage, in his own words.— The first Letter is as follows : Mile-end, London, 17 th Aug.—71. Dear Sir, Your very obliging letter came safe to hand, for which and your kind inquiries after my health, I return you my most sincere thanks. I should have wrote much sooner, but have been in expectation, for several days past, of an order to make my Voyage public, after which I could have wrote with freedom. As this point is not yet determined upon, I lie under some restraint. I may, however, venture to inform you, that the voyage has fully answered the expectation of my superiors. I had the honour of an hour's conference with the King the other day, who was pleased to express his approbation of my conduct, in terms that were extremely pleasing to me. I, however, have made ' no very great discoveries, yet I have explored more of the Great South Sea than all that have gone before me; in so much that little remains now to be done, to have a thorough knowledge of that part of the globe. I sailed from England, as well provided for such 112 LIFE OF COOK. a voyage as possible, and a better ship for such a service I never would wish for. We touched first at Madeira, and took in wine; after that at Rio Janeiro, where we recruited our provisions. We next touched in Straits le Maire, in a port in Terra del Fuego, where we took in wood and water. This was in the month of January, that is, in the midst of summer; yet the weather was exceeding cold and stormy, with snow. We left this place towards the latter end of the month, and in about 3 weeks time got round Cape Horn into the South Sea, without ever being once brought under our close-reefed topsails : however we had no want of wind. The highest south latitude we were in was 60° 12'; and here we had finer weather than in a lower latitude. We arrived at George's Island, the place of destination, on the 13th of April, —69; having in our rout thither discovered several islands, which are of no great note. We met with a very friendly reception by the natives of George's Island, who supplied us with all manner of refreshments that the island afforded. We had here an extraordinary good observation of the Transit of Venus, which was one of the principal objects of the voyage. We left this island, after a stay of three months, and afterwards visited some others lying in its neighbourhood; where we were plentifully supplied with fresh provisions. We left these islands on the 9th of Aug., and steered to the southward, in search of the so much before talked-of Southern Continent; which we did not find. Before we left the above islands, the voyage was very agree- ble and pleasant: the remainder was attended with such a variety of circumstances, that I must defer to some other opportunity to enter upon it.—Should LETM^S TO MR. WALKER. I IS I come into the North, I shall certainly call upon you, and am, with great respect, Sir, Your most Obliged Humble Servt. Jam. Cook. To Capt. Jno. Walker at Whitby. The second Letter, written about a month after, not only continues the narrative, but recurs to his favourite theme, Otaheite, and the other South Sea Islands. V - , Mile-end, London, \3th Sept. 1771. Sir, In my last I gave you some account of my Voyage, as far as the South Sea Islands; the remainder shall be the subject of this letter. What I mean by the South Sea Islands are those that lie within and about the Tropics. They are in general small: George's Island, which is only about 33 leagues in circuit, is one of the largest. The inhabitants of this island gave us an account, and the names, of 130 islands lying in these seas. They are of two kinds, very low, or very mountainous* The low islands are such as are called Keys in the West Indies; that is, mostly shoals, ledges of rocks, &c. The chief produce of the firm land is cocoa nuts. These and fish, with which all these islands abound, are the chief support of the inhabitants. The mountainous parts of the high islands are in general dry and barren, and as it were burnt up with the sun; but all these islands are skirted round with a border of low land, which is fertile and pleasant to a very high degree, being well clothed with fruit trees, which nature hath planted here for the use of the happy natives. These people 9 m LIFE OF COOK. may be said to be exempted from the curse of our forefathers. Scarce can it be said that they earn their bread by the sweat of their brows. Benevolent nature hath not only provided them with necessaries, but many of the luxuries of life. Loaves of bread, or at least what serves as a most excellent substitute, grow here in a manner spontaneously upon trees; besides a great many other fruits, and roots: and the sea coasts are well stored with a vast variety of excellent fish. They have only three species of tame animals, hogs, dogs, and fowls; all of which they eat. Dogs we learned from them also to eat; and there were but few among us who did not think, that a South Sea dog ate as well as an English lamb. Was I to give a full description of these islands, the manners and customs of the inhabitants, &e., it would far exceed the bounds of a letter, I must therefore, quit these terrestrial paradises, in order to follow the course of our voyage. In the beginning of Aug. 1769, we quitted the tropical regions, and steered to the southward, in the midst of the South Sea, the height of 40°, without meeting with any land, or the least visible signs of any. We then steered to the westward, between the latitude of 30° and 40°, until we fell in with the east coast of New Zealand, a very small part of the west coast of which, was first discovered by Tasman in 1642; but he never once set foot upon it. This country was thought to be a part of the Southern Continent; but I found it to be two large islands, both of which I circumnavigated in the space of six months. They extend from the latitude of 34° South to 47 J° South, and are together nearly as big as Great Britain. It is a hilly, mm LETTERS TO MR. WALKER. 115 mountainous country, but rich and feiftile ; especially the northern parts, where it is also well inhabited. The inhabitants of this country are a strong, well-made, active people, rather above the common size. They are of a very dark brown colour, with long black hair. They are also a brave, warlike people, with sentiments void of treachery. Their arms are spears, clubs, halberts, battle-axes, darts, and stones. They live in strongholds, or fortified towns, built in well chosen situations, and according to art. We had frequent skirmishes with them, always where we were not known: Our fire arms gave us the superiority. At first some of them were killed; but we at last learned how to manage them without taking away their lives: and when once peace was settled, they ever after were our very good friends. These people speak the same language as the people of the South Sea Islands, we had before visited, though distant from them many hundred leagues, and of whom they have not the least knowledge, or of any other people whatever. Their chief food is fish, and fern roots i they have too, in places, large plantations of potatoes, such as we have in the West Indies, and likewise yams, &c. Land animals they have none> either wild or tame, except dogs, which they breed for food. This country produceth a grass plant like flags, of the nature of hemp or flax, but superior in quality to either. Of this the natives make clothing, lines, nets, &c. The men very often go naked, with only a narrow belt about their waists: the women, on the contrary, never appear nak#d. Their government, religion, notions of the creation of the world, mankind, &c, are much the same as those of the natives of the South Sea Jslands* 416 LIFE OF COOK. 114 We left this country on the 1st. of April, 1770, and steered for New Holland, all the east part of which remained undiscovered; my design being to fall in with the southern part, called Van Die- man's Land: but the winds forced me to the northward of it about 40 leagues, so that we fell in with the land in latitude 38° south. I explored the coast of this country, which I called New South Wales, to the northern extremity; in the doing of which, we were many times in great danger of losing the ship. Once we lay 23 hours upon a ledge of rocks, were obliged to throw our guns and many of our stores overboard, received very much damage in her bottom; but by a fortunate circumstance got her into port, and repaired her. Great part of this coast is covered with islands and shoals; which-made the exploring it exceeding dangerous, even to a very great degree. We sailed upon this coast near 400 leagues by the lead, without ever having a leadsman out of the chains, with sometimes one, two, and three boats ahead, to direct us; and yet, with all this precaution, we were very often obliged to anchor with all sails standing, to prevent running ashore. We at last surmounted all difficulties, and got into the Indian Sea, by a passage entirely new. The east coast of New Holland, or what I call New South Wales, extends from 38° to 10^°, If New Holland can be called an island, it is by far the greatest in the known world. The interior part of this immense track of land is not at all known : what borders on the sea coast is a mixture of fertile and barren land ; the soil, in general, is of a loose sandy nature. The natives of this country are not numerous: they are of a very dark brown or choco- ■ LETTERS TO MR. WALKER. 117 late colour, with lank black hair: they are under the common size, and seem to be a timorous, inoffensive race of men. They spoke a very different language from any we had met with. Men, women, and children, go wholly naked. It is said of our first parents, that after they had eaten the forbidden fruit, they saw themselves naked, and were ashamed; these people are naked, and are not ashamed. They live chiefly on fish, and wild fowl, and such other articles as the land naturally produceth; for they do not cultivate one foot of it. These people may truly be said to be in the pure state of nature, and may appear to some to be the most wretched upon earth; but, in reality, they are far more happy than we Europeans, being wholly unacquainted not only with the superfluities, but with many of the necessary conveniences, so much sought after in Europe : they are happy in not knowing the use of them. They live in a tranquillity, which is not disturbed by the inequality of condition : the earth and sea, of their own accord, furnish them with all things necessary for life; they covet not magnificent houses, household stuff, &c.; they sleep as sound in a small hovel, or even in the open air, as the King in his palace on a bed of down. After quitting New Holland, we steered for the coast of New Guinea, where we landed but once : then made the best of our way to Batavia, and in our way touched at an island, partly under the Dutch East India Company. Here we got plenty of refreshments, which were very acceptable. We arrived at Batavia in Oct., all in good health and high spirits. On our arrival at a European settlement, we thought all our hardships at an end; but LIFE OF COOK. Providence thought proper to order it otherwise* The repairs the ship wanted caused a delay of near 10 weeks, in Which time we contracted sicknesses, that here, and on our passage to the Cape of Good Hope, carried off above thirty of my people* The remainder of the voyage was attended with no material circumstance. If any interesting circumstance should occur to me, that I have omitted, I will hereafter acquaint you with it. I however expect, that my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty will very soon publish the whole Voyage, Charts, &c» Another voyage is thought of, with two ships; which, if it takes place, I believe the command will be conferred upon me.— If there is any thing that I can inform you of, in regard to my late voyage, I shall take a pleasure in it: and believe me to be Your Obliged Servt., Jams. Cook. These letters may give us an idea of those partial notices of his voyage, which Captain Cook communicated to his particular friends, previous to the publication of the entire narrative. The latter was looked for by the public with intense interest; and it is not surprising, that unauthorised attempts were made to gratify such eager curiosity. One of these anticipations of Cook's narrative was entitled, " A Journal of a Voyage round the World." This must have been the work of some one connected with the expedition; and although the account which it contained was comparatively dry and meagre, it was received with eagerness* A copy of the Journal of Mr. Parkinson, the property of Mr. Banks, his employer, having been ■■■HKBHSII NEW EXPEDITION PLANNED, li# Surreptitiously obtained, together with his valuable drawings, was also printed; but an injunction from the Court of Chancery f6r some time prevented its publication* The authorised account of the Voy- age, drawn up by Dr* Hawkesworth, from the the Commander's Journal, and the papers of Mr* Banks (afterwards Sir Joseph Banks), at last appeared ; and was received by the public with that high regard which it justly merited. Its value was \greatly enhanced by the excellent charts and drawings that accompanied it, liberally furnished at the expense of Government* By this Publication, the fame of our navigator was soon spread abroad, not only in the British dominions, but among all the nations of Europe, and throughout the whole civilized world. While public curiosity was amply gratified by the perusal of this most interesting narrative, the discoveries which Cook had made, excited a desire after further discoveries* Even before it was published, as appears from the close of his second letter to Mr* Walker, a fresh expedition was talked of, and it was proposed to send two ships, under his command, to make new researches in the Pacific Ocean, and particularly to explore the southern hemisphere, in order to put an end to all further speculation about a great southern continent* This proposal meeting with the approbation of a patriotic King, and a liberal Government, and according with the wishes of Cook himself, steps were immediately taken for carrying it into effect* During the progress of this new and important measure, Capt. Cook found leisure to pay a short visit to his relations and friends in the north* His father was still living at Ayton, and must have been LIFE OF COOK. overjoyed to see his only surviving son, preserved: through so many perils, and now raised to an elevated rank, enjoying the respect and admiration of his country. His father's friend, and his own early patron, Thos. Skottowe, Esq., was- now no more, having died in the beginning of that year. But about this period, Captain Cook became intimately acquainted with another respected friend, Commodore Wilson, then, and for many years after, residing at Ayton. This gentleman had performed many gallant exploits in the East India Company's service, .and had, among other enterprises, discovered, in 1759, the eastern passage to China, by Pitt's Straits, so called after the name of the vessel which Capt. Wilson then commanded. As Cook and he were kindred spirits, brfrtjiers in bold enterprise and successful discovery, they felt powerfully attracted to each other, and formed a friendship which lasted during life. According to promise, Capt. Cook paid a visit to hfs worthy friend, Mr. Walker of Whitby, who, with his family, shewed him great kindness and respect. All, indeed, who had known him during his residence in Whitby, would be desirous to renew their acquaintance, with one who was not only a credit to the place where he had spent his youth,, but an ornament to his country. But of all his Whitby friends, no one received him with more cordiality than good old Mary Prowd, the worthy nurse, who had distinguished him with her special regard, when an apprentice boy. Her opinion of his worth had been amply confirmed, and her hopes of his future greatness more than realized. She had been delighted to hear of his adventures and preferments, and was overjoyed at the thoughts. PREPARATIONS FOR HIS SECOND VOYAGE. 121 of once mote seeing him. Previous to his arrival) she had been taught, that she must not now call him James, in the same familiar way as before ;■ she must recollect his rank, and call him Captain. Molly resolved to abide by these instructions, but the moment he appeared in her presence, the burst of her affections overpowered every other feeling : forgetting all her lessons, she stretched out both her arms to welcome him, and exclaimed in her own native phraseology, " O honey James, how glad Is to see thee!" Captain Cook would of course congratulate Mr. Fishburn on the excellence of the Endeavour, in which he had circumnavigated the globe; and which, instead of being laid aside as unfit for service, was already sent off for the Falkland Isles, as a store ship. The choice of the two vessels wanted for the new expedition under his command, being left to himself, he selected two ships made by the same eminent builder, both the property of Capt. Wm. Hammond of Hull, and now only from 14 to 16 months old. It was Cook's firm opinion, often expressed, that no ships were better adapted for voyages of discovery, than those constructed at Whitby for the coal trade; being of a moderate size, and strongly built. The largest of these two vessels was named the Resolution, of 462 tons burthen; the other was the Adventure, of 336 tons. On the 28th of November, Capt. Cook was appointed to the command of the Resolution, with a complement of 112 officers and men, including marines; while Mr. Tobias Furneaux, who had been second Lieutenant with Capt. Wallis, was promoted to the command of the Adventure, with a complement of 81. The ships were fitted out in 122 LIFE OF COOK* the most complete style, the former at Deptford, the latter at Woolwich; and were furnished with every thing that could contribute to the comfort of the officers and crew, and the success of the voyage* Among the excellent stores and provisions put on board, there were large supplies of antiscorbutics £ such as, sour crout, salted cabbage, portable broth, marmalade of carrots, malt, and inspissated juice of wort and beer. Amidst eager desires for geographical discovery, the cause of science was not forgotten. The Admiralty engaged Mr. Wm. Hodges, an eminent artist, to make drawings and paintings of interesting objects, occurring during the voyage. Mr. John Reinhold Forster and his son were appointed to fill the department of natural history; for which the Parliament made provision. And, although there was no transit of Venus to observe, astronomy had also its representatives, in Mr. Wm. Wales and Mr. Wm. Bayley; engaged by the Board of Longitude, the former for the Resolution, the latter for the Adventure. Both ships were supplied with excellent timekeepers, and astronomical apparatus* Captain Cook was highly satisfied with the selection of the officers under his command. His first Lieutenant was Mr. R* P. Cooper; his second and third Lieutenants, Messrs. Clerke and Pickersgill, had served under him in his first voyage; as did also Lieut. Edgcumbe, of the marines, two of the warrant officers, and several of the petty officers* His coadjutor, Captain Furneaux, had for his Lieutenants, Messrs. Joseph Shank, and Arthur Kempe; and Lieutenant James Scott, of the marines. The winter months having been employed in COMMENCEMENT OF HIS SECOtfE VOYAGE? 123 fitting out the vessels, the Resolution sailed from Deptford, April 9th; but was detained at Woolwich by contrary winds till the 22nd, when she dropped down to Long Reach, where the Adventure joined her, and both ships received their powder, guns, and gunner's stores. On the 10th of May, they sailed from Long Reach, to proceed to Plymouth; but the Resolution being found to be very crank, it was thought proper to put her into Sheerness, to make some alterations in her upper works. The necessary alterations were executed by the officers of the yard; and during their progress, the Earl of Sandwich and Sir Hugh Palliser came down, to see that every thing was done properly* This occurrence gave rise to some reflexions on the judgment of Capt. Cook, in making choice of the Resolution for this voyage; but his good opinion of the ship was not shaken, and the event shewed that his judgment was correct. On the 22nd of June, the Resolution, having undergone these alterations, sailed from Sheerness; and on the 3rd of July, joined the Adventure in Plymouth Sound. Here the Earl of Sandwich and Sir Hugh Palliser, who had been inspecting the dock-yards, paid the last mark of their assiduous attention to the equipment of this expedition, by going on board the Resolution, to assure themselves that every thing was provided according to the Captain's wishes, and that the ship answered his expectations. At Plymouth our navigator received his instructions, directing him to take both vessels under his command; to touch at Madeira, and the Cape; and then proceed in search of a southern continent, circumnavigating the globe in a high southern j 124 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. I ' latitude, and getting as near to the south pole as was practicable; and, in the event of interruption by stormy weather, to retire to some known port, to refresh the people, and refit the ships; and then resume his researches, when the season allowed. If a southern continent was found, he was to explore its coasts, and cultivate an acquaintance with its inhabitants; if none appeared, he might employ himself in discovering such islands as might be situated in the unexplored parts of the southern hemisphere. If the Resolution should be lost, he was to prosecute the voyage in the Adventure ; and after circumnavigating the globe, return home by the Cape of Good Hope. No time was fixed for his return; and in all unforeseen emergencies, he was authorized to act according to the best of his judgment.—These instructions being received, and a copy delivered to Capt. Furneaux, with the necessary directions, both ships were ready to take their final departure from England. CHAPTER X. Arrival at Madeira—at St. Jago—and at the Cape of Good Hope. Letter to Mr. Walker. Voyage towards the Antarctic seas, and unsuccessful attempts to find Cape Circumcision, or any other land in the direction of the south pole. Numerous ice-bergs—Cold and stormy weather. The Resolution and Adventure parted in a fog. Aurora australis. Voyage of the Resolution to the eastward in a high southern Latitude. Arrival in Dusky Bay, New Zealand. Healthy state of the crew. Refreshments procured. Excursions in Dusky Bay, and friendly intercourse with the natives. Passage from Dusky Bay to Queen Charlotte's Sound. Happy meeting with the Adventure, which had touched at Van Diemen's Land. On monday, July 13th, 1772, the Resolution and Adventure sailed from Plymouth; and on the 29th, they anchored in Funehiale Roads, at Madeira. Here our navigators met with a friendly reception; and having procured water, wine, and other refreshments, sailed again on the 1st of August. In the beginning of the month, Capt. Cook made three puncheons of beer, from the inspissated juice of malt; and found the liquor in a few days very brisk and drinkable. The stock of water being low, the ships, on the 9th, put into port Praya, in St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verde Islands; where not only supplies of water, but of meat and fruits, were obtained. They sailed again on the 14th ; and on the 19th, one of the carpenter's mates, of the Resolution, a sober, worthy man, fell overboard COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. and was drowned. On the 07th. a similar loss occurred on board the Adventure, where one of the petty officers died. At this time there was no sickness on board the Resolution* Heavy rains had recently fallen, which in hot climates often prove injurious to health; but the Captain, follow- ing some hints received from Sir Hugh Palliser, and Capt Campbell, took care to have the ship aired and dried with fires made between decks, and obliged the people to air their bedding, and to wash and dry their clothes, whenever there was opportunity. On the 8th of September, the ships crossed the line, when the foolish ceremonies, usually practised on the occasion, were not omitted. These of course afforded some sport to the people on board. le officers and scientific gentlemen had their amusements also, on the voyage; making observations on the currents, the birds, and the luminous appearance which the sea occasionally presents. This last was ascertained, as in the former voyage, to be produced by myriads of insects. On the 11th of October, the Captain and his friends had an opportunity of observing an eclipse of the moon. On the 29th, they came in sight of Table Mountain, and next day came to an anchor in Table Bay; having reached the Cape, without experiencing any of those calms, or encountering any of those tornadoes, which some of their seafaring friends in England had assured them they would meet with near the line, in consequence of their sailing at an improper season of the year. At the Cape, Baron Plettenberg, the Governor, received our navigators with great politeness; and informed Capt, Cook of two French vessels which, CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 127 about eight months before, had made some discoveries to the southward of the Mauritius; and of other two French ships, under the command of M. Marion, that had passed the Cape in March, on a voyage of discovery to the South Pacific Ocean. Aotourou, whom M. de Bougainville brought from Otaheite, was to have returned with M. Marion, had he been living. Three weeks were spent at the Cape, during which the Resolution and Adventure were caulked and painted, and in every respect put in as good condition as when they left England. Here Lieut. Shanks, being in ill health, was left behind, at his own request, to return home ; Mr Kemp was promoted to be first Lieutenant of the Adventure; and Mr. Burney, a midshipman in the Resolution, appointed to succeed him as second Lieutenant. Here also, the scientific corps of the Resolution acquired an accession of strength, in the person of Mr. Sparrman, a Swedish naturalist, and a disciple of Linnaeus, who at Mr. Forster's request and expense, was engaged as his assistant. Two days before his departure from the Cape, Capt. Cook wrote a brief farewell letter to his Whitby friend, Mr. Walker, which the reader will be gratified to see; especially as it expresses his reliance on the care of Providence, in the view of approaching dangers. Cape of Good Hope, 20th Nov., 1772. Dear Sir, Having nothing new to communicate, I should hardly have troubled you with a letter, were it not customary for men to take leave of their friends before they go out of the world; for I can 128 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. hardly think myself in it, so long as I am deprived of having any connexion with the civilized part of it, and this will soon be my case for two years at least. When I think of the inhospitable parts I am going to, I think the voyage dangerous; I however enter upon it with great cheerfulness. Providence has been very kind to me on many occasions, and I trust in the continuance of the divine protection. I have two good ships, well provided, and well manned. You must have heard of the clamour raised against the Resolution before I left England: I can assure you, I never set foot in a finer ship. Please to make my best respects to all friends at Whitby, and believe me to be, with great regard and esteem, your most affectionate friend, Jams. Cook. On the 22nd of Nov. our navigators sailed from the Cape, directing their course southward for Cape Circumcision, the land said to have been seen by M. Bouvet in 1739. Warm jackets and trowsers, allowed by the Admiralty, were served out to the men, in anticipation of the colds and storms of the Antarctic regions. The advantages of this precaution were speedily apparent; for, on the 6th of Dec. the thermometer fell to 38, and a severe storm began, accompanied with rain, hail, snow, and sleet; which, continuing for several days, destroyed a great part of tBe live stock brought from the Cape of Good Hope, and drove the ships so far to the eastward of their course, that they had no hopes of reaching Cape Circumcision. On the 10th, being in latitude 50° 40' S. they began to see icebergs, which increased in number and size, as they advanced towards the south ; some being about two miles in circuit, arid ICEBERGS. 129 60 feet high ; yet such was the force of the waves, that the sea broke right over them. On the 13th they reached 54° S., being the latitude of Cape Circumcision; but they were 10° of longitude east of it. On monday the 14th, in latitude 54° 50' S. and longitude 21° 34' E., their progress was stopped by a compact field of ice; when they bent their course eastward, along the edge of this field, working their way among numerous icebergs, like so many floating rocks, the danger of striking against which, was much increased by frequent fogs. During this navigation, the cold was often so intense, that the sails and rigging were all hung with icicles. The sleeves of the men's jackets being too short, and their arms exposed to the cold, the Captain, with his wonted humanity, had them lengthened with baize, and had a cap of baize, lengthened with canvas, made for each of the men; which contributed much to their comfort. Symptoms of scurvy appearing also on board, recourse was had to the antiscorbutics, which were served out daily under the direction of the Surgeons. After reaching 31° 30' E. longitude, our navigators changed their course, and stood to the south-west, still keeping among the icebergs; and on tuesday, the 29th, they were in 59° 12' S. latitude, 19° 1' E. latitude. No tokens of land having been seen, and no bottom found in sounding, Capt. Cook resolved, the wind being now favourable, to run as far west as the meridian of Cape Circumcision; and having sent for Captain Furneaux to come on board and dine with him, acquainted him with his plan. On thursday, the 31st, they found themselves in considerable dan- 10 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. ger, exposed to stormy weather, among fields and masses of ice, being then in 60° 21' S. latitude, and 13° 32' E. longitude. On Saturday, the 2nd of January, 1773, they were favoured with a sight of the moon, which they had seen but once since leaving the Cape. The latitude was found to be 58° 53i' S., longitude 9° 34i' E. This being nearly the meridian of Cape Circumcision, though 95 leagues to the south of its latitude, the weather clear, and no land whatever in sight, Capt. Cook was of opinion, that Bouvet must have been mistaken with respect to Cape Circumcision, and that he had taken a large iceberg, or assemblage of icebergs, for land; a mistake which our navigators themselves were sometimes in danger of committing. Disappointed in searching for land in this direction, Capt. Cook now pursued a S.E. course, taking in during his progress masses of ice, which being melted afforded supplies of excellent fresh water. On the 17th of January, when our ^navigators had attained the latitude of 67° 15', being only 22° 45' from the south pole, they found it impossible to proceed further, the ice being entirely closed to the south, without the least appearance of an opening. Here many whales were playing about the ice, while peterels, pintadoes, and other birds, were seen in great numbers. Returning towards the north, Capt. Cook proceeded to search for the land said to have been recently discovered by the French. For several days, the vessels kept a northerly, or N.E. course, in very unpleasant weather, sometimes thick and hazy, at other times stormy and boisterous, with showers of snow and sleet; till on monday, February 1st, they were in latitude RESOLUTION AND ADVENTURE PARTED. 1'Sl 48° 30' S., longitude 58° 7' E..* Clearly in the meridian, of the Maurititis^ and about the place where the French were said to have discovered land. The Adventure, in this voyage, usually ke§p at the distance of four miles from the Resolution, that the ships might take in a wider ran^) Floating pieces of sea weed or rook weed, with numbers of divers! and other birds* b§iag seen from both ships, they were the more eager in settling for land, these being considered limitations of its proximity. They sailed to the east, and south-east, till w,$$- nesday morning; when, Capt. Furneaux expressing his belief, that there was land to the no$$|i-west, Capt. Cook, though of a different mind, steered| in that direction till the morning of Saturday, the 6th; when, finding adverse winds, without any appearance of land, he again proceeded towards the south-east. On monday, Feb. 8th, in latitude 49° 53' S, longitude 63° 39' E, a thick fog came on, during which the Adventure parted from the Resolution; and although Capt. Cook coaktimied to cruise about near the same spot for two days, making frequent .signals, no answer was made, and when the weather cleared up she could^not be seen. After this, Capt. Cook continued on a S.JD. course in the Resolution till he reached the latitude of 60° and upwards, and then steered to the eastward, keeping nearly in that latitude until Wednesday, March 16; when, having attained the longitude of 146° 53' E, being nearly the meridian of Van Diemen's Land, he turned towards thjgfnprth-east* He proposed to examine the eastern point of Van Diemen's Land, and ascertain whether & was joined to New Holland or not, a point not then determined; but the wind being unfavourable, he m 132 COOKS SECujnu VOYAGE. steered directly for New Zealand, where he hoped to find the Adventure; and having the advantage of a strong gale, he made the land on thursday, the 25th. During the whole voyage from the Cape to New Zealand, the Captain and his scientific friends made frequent observations for ascertaining the variation of the compass; though they met with many interruptions, through hazy or stormy weather. The islands and masses of ice, which supplied them with water, furnished another subject of investigation; as also the appearances presented by extensive fields of ice, which, when partially enveloped in clouds, or fogs, were sometimes mistaken for land. Their attention was likewise directed to the currents, the sea weed, the birds, and the seals; and they found, to their mortification, that the* presence of penguins, albatrosses, pintadoes, and seals, does not always indicate that land is near. But the most beautiful and interesting phenomenon observed in this voyage, was the aurora australis, or southern lights, which in clear evenings appeared toward the south pole, as the northern lights are seen in our country towards the north pole; and exhibited the same vivid and flitting coruscations, with parallel, and sometimes spiral rays. This splendid phenomenon was first seen early in the morning of Feb. 17th. Capt. Cook was not hitherto aware of its existence, although a bright light was seen toward the south, in his first voyage, during the passage from New Guinea to Savu. It was on friday, the 26th of March, that the Resolution anchored in Dusky Bay, near the West Cape of New Zealand: and although she had been DUSKY BAY. 133 117 days at sea, and had sailed 3660 leagues, without being in sight of land, the crew, with one exception, were all well; owing to the means so carefully employed by the Captain for preserving their health, and especially the judicious use of antiscorbutics. An excellent harbour being discovered on the south-east side of Dusky Bay, by Lieut. Pickersgill, and hence named Pickersgill Harbour, the Resolution was here comfortably moored, in the immediate vicinity of wood and water; and as the place also abounded with fish and wild fowl, Capt. Cook resolved to make some stay here, especially as no European had hitherto landed in the southern division of New Zealand. A large overhanging tree, which reached to the gunwale of the ship, formed a communication with the shore; where a space was cleared in the woods for setting up an observatory, a forge, and tents for various uses. The place did not afford a supply of wholesome vegetables; but the Captain, who had made beer several times from the inspissated juice of wort during the voyage from the Cape, discovered in the woods a tree resembling the American black spruce; with the branches of which, together with the same inspissated juice and molasses, and an infusion of an herb growing here called the tea-herb, he made some fine spruce beer, at once refreshing and medicinal. The poor sheep and goats, that had survived the Antarctic storms, were so affected with scurvy, that they could scarcely eat even the most tender leaves, their teeth being all loose. On the 28th, a canoe containing six or eight people came in sight, the first inhabitants seen since the ship's arrival. Signs of friendship were made J m COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. HI! to invJte--$h£m to approach; but without effect. Some tim&'&fteL they had retired, the Captain Went with tfcto floats to seek them ; but found only a canoe, in which he left, some trinkets for them. No other natives were seen till tuesday, April 6th, when the Captain and the scientific gentlemen, on their return from examining a fine ca^ascious cove, with a fresh water river, on the north side of the bay, observed a man and two women on a small Stilted. The man hallooed to them as they were passing; but when the boat approached $$&&, he >*Bgcbvered ^manifest signs of fear. He stood on the point of a rock with his club in his hand, while the two women s'tood behind him at the skirts of the wood, each carrying a spear. When the boat came to the spot, he still kept his post, and when Captain Cook landed, and went up and embraced him, all his fears were dissipated. The two women now ventured to draV near, while some of the party landed from the boat; adid a friendly con- •#€sfeation, little understood on either side, was carried on for about half an hour. In this friendly chat, the youngest of the two women had the principal share, displaying a surprising volubility of tongue; and she also treated the company with a dance. Presents of fish and fowls were offered; 1>ttt the natives declined accepting them. Next day the Captain, with Messrs. Forster and Hodges, paid them another visit, and gave them several presents, none of which they appeared to regard, except hatchets and spike-nails. The party to-day met^with the whole family, eight in number; and Were conducted to their ^habitation, two mean bark huts, inJthe skirts of the wood. On the 9th, another visit Was paid them, when they appeared DUSKY BAY, 135 in their best dresses, having their heads ornamenfc ed with fillets and tufts of feathers. Capt. Cook presented the chief with a cloak of red baize, which pleased him so well, that he gave his patoo-patoo in return. On monday the 12th, the natives visited Pickersgill Harbour, in their canoe, but could not be persuaded to come alongside the ship. They sat down, however, on the adjacent shore, where they conversed familiarly with the officers and men who went to them; paying particular regard to some young men, whom they appeared at first to mistake for women. In the evening they took up their quarters about a hundred yards from the watering place, thus shewing the confidence which they placed in the strangers. Next evening they returned to their own habitation. During his stay here, our navigator was diligently employed in surveying the numerous coves and islands in the bay, and marking the general features of the country; while the naturalists were pursuing their favourite occupations, and the officers frequently went out in shooting parties. On tuesday, the 13th, the Captain, with Mr. Forster, went in the pinnace, to survey the isles and rocks in the mouth of the bay; where, after visiting an interesting cove, and killing some seals on the outermost isles, they rowed out to sea round the south-west point of Anchor Isle. Here they unexpectedly found the boat belonging to a shooting party who were on another island, and fortunately caught it just as it was going to be dashed against some rocks. The boat was secured in a small creek, while the Captain's party went in search of the sportsmen. The latter were found on a small isle in Choose Cove, so named because some geese COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. were left here to breed; but they could not be approached till the return of the tide, and this not flowing till three in the morning, the Captain and his comrades, landing on a naked beach, where they kindled a fire and broiled some fish, made a hearty supper, having for sauce a good appetite. They then lay down to sleep, having no bed but the stony beach, and no covering but the canopy of heaven. At the rise of the tide, they took off the sportsmen, whom they conveyed to their boat; and both parties reached the ship about seven in the morning, not a little fatigued with their long excursion. On monday, the 19th, the New Zealand chief, accompanied by his daughter, came on board the Resolution, not without much ceremony. He took a green branch in his hand, with which he struck the ship's side several times, repeating a speech or prayer; and then throwing the branch into the main chains, he went on board. He and his daughter were introduced into the cabin when the the officers were at breakfast; but they would taste nothing. He pried into every corner, and viewed every thing with much surprise; but could not fix his attention on any one thing for a single moment. He brought, as a present to the Captain, a piece of cloth, and a hatchet of green talc; and gave also a piece of cloth to Mr. Forster, while his daughter gave a piece to Mr. Hodges. Of the presents given in return, he set the greatest value on hatchets and spike-nails. They remained on board till noon, when he and his daughter joined the rest of his family; who were fishing in their canoe; after which, they all departed; and*iext day they left the place, and were no more seen in the bay; a circumstance which our navigators could not account for. DUSKY BAY. 137 In the mean time, the Captain proceeded on monday with two boats, to explore the upper part of the bay on the south side; Messrs. Forster and Hodges being with him in the one boat, while Lieut. Cooper had the charge of the other. Both parties passed the night on the shore; and next morning examined a river, on the banks of which they saw some natives, who would not accept an invitation to draw near, but retired into the woods. Afterwards two other natives were seen on the shore, armed with spears; and the Captain advancing to them alone, one of them was persuaded to lay down his spear and approach. He held out in his hand a grass plant, which the Captain took hold of also, and when both had muttered some words alternately, peace was considered as fully settled, and they saluted each other as friends. The New Zealander gave the Captain his hahou, or cloak; and received in return a hatchet and a knife, as did also his comrade. They invited the Captain and his friends, whom they kindly saluted, to go to their habitation, and get something to eat; but on account of the tide, he could not accept their invitation. They accompanied him and his friends to the boat, which they assisted in launching; having first desired them to put away the muskets, the murderous effects of which, in shooting ducks and other wild fowl, they had that morning witnessed. A few other natives appeared in the skirts of the wood, but did not come near. Many other excursions were made in Dusky Bay, for surveying, botanizing, duck-shooting, seal-killing, and fishing. After the 25th of April, the weather became very rainy and hazy; which greatly marred the pleasure of such excursions. The Captain, however, completed his survey of Dusky Bay, with all its intricate windings, coves, and islands; and, on thursday the 29th, having got every thing on board, and having sown with garden seeds of various sorts a piece of ground where the tents had stood, he sailed from Pickersgill Harbour, and made for a new passage out of the bay to the northward, which he had discovered in his survey. Contrary winds and adverse currents, with the necessity of proceeding cautiously through this new channel, so impeded his progress outwards, that he did not get fairly out to sea till tuesday, May 11th. Astronomical observations were made at Pickersgill Harbour by Mr. Wales, for determining the variation of the compass, proving the chronometers, and ascertaining the longitude. This last was found to be 166° 18' E.; the latitude 45° 47' 26*" S. During the passage from Dusky Bay to Queen Charlotte's Sound, nothing remarkable occurred, except the appearance of some waterspouts, so often observed in the Pacific Ocean. On the 18th of May, the Resolution arrived in Queen Charlotte's Sound, where, to the great joy of both parties, the Adventure was found at anchor; having arrived here six weeks before, or about ten days after .the arrival of the Resolution in Dusky Bay. The Adventure, after losing sight of the Resolution on the 7th of February, had cruised some days near the spot; when not seeing the Resolution, nor hearing her signals, she bore away in the direction in which both had been sailing ; but took an easterly course in a latitude about 8° lower than the Resolution. On >the 9th of March, Capt. Fur- THE ADVENTURE FOUND. 139 neaux fell in with the south part of Van Diemen's Land; and spent five days in a bay which he named Adventure Bay. He explored a part of the coast, but saw no inhabitants ; although their fires were perceived in various parts, and some of their rude bee-hive huts were met with in Adventure Bay. Some 'small islands were discovered on the east side of Van Diemen's Land, and named Fur- neaux's Isles. Van Diemen's Land, like New Zealand, had been discovered by Tasman, in 1642; yet it was still uncertain, whether it formed the extremity of New Holland, or not. Capt. Furneaux, as well as Capt. Cook, was prevented by contrary winds from ascertainirg the point; but he sailed northward till he saw a part of New Holland, lying about 39° S. latitude ; and the impression on his mind was, that a deep bay, and not a strait, intervened between that point and Van Diemen's Land. He arrived off Cape Farewell in New Zealand, on the 3rd of April; but, the wind being unfavourable, it was not till Wednesday the 7th that he anchored safely in Ship Cove, Queen Charlotte's Sound. Here Cajst. Furneaux and his people waited the arrival of the Resolution, enjoying the refreshments which the place afforded, and having tents on shore on the island of Motuara, and an insulated Heppah adjacent. They had enjoyed friendly intercourse with the natives, who remembered the Endeavour, and made particular inquiries after Tupia, at the news of whose death they expressed much concern. CHAPTER XL Refreshments obtained in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Means used to stock the country with useful animals and vegetables. Friendly visits of the natives: their migratory habits. Both ships sail from New Zealand to the S. and E. Sickness on board the Adventure; healthy state of the Resolution's crew. Several islands discovered. Arrival at Otaheite. Dangers incurred in approaching the southern peninsula. Trade with the natives. Visit to King Waheatua. Removal to Matavai. Friendly trade and intercourse with King Otoo and his people. Passage to Huahine. Large supplies obtained through the warm friendship of King Oree. 1 hefts committed by the natives. Omai taken on board the Adventure. Visit to Ulietea. Kindness of Oreo and his people. A false alarm among them. Plentiful supply of refreshments. Oedidee taken on board the Resolution. After the arrival of the Resolution at Ship Cove, Capt. Cook, knowing where scurvy-grass, celery, and other wholesome vegetables, were to be found, and ever anxious for the health of his crew, set out early the very nexiTmorning to procure a supply; and having returned at breakfast time with a boat load, gave directions for boiling fresh vegetables, along with wheat, pease, and portable broth, for the crews of both ships, at their different meals. The vessels being both in good order, and the people healthy, our navigator prepared to set out on further researches, and gave Capt. Furneaux instructions to get ready for sea. In the mean time, both Captains, with a laudable view to increase the comforts of the natives, as well as to provide QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND. 141 supplies for future voyagers, endeavoured to stock the country with useful animals and vegetables. Several gardens had already been planted by Capt. Furneaux, in which potatoes, turnips, carrots, and parsneps, were now thriving, particularly on Mo- tuara: and Capt. Cook planted another garden on Long Island. The uses of these vegetables were pointed out to some of the natives, who seemed pleased with the prospect of these new supplies of food. Capt. Cook set on shore a pair of goats, and Capt. Furneaux a boar and two breeding sows; leaving them in retired spots, without informing the natives, that they might breed and multiply in the woods undisturbed. A ram and a ewe, the only survivors out of the live stock bought at the Cape, were also put on shore from the Resolution; but both were soon after found dead, having probably eaten some poisonous plants. The Adventure's people had reported, that some New Zealanders had offered their children for sale; but Capt. Cook discovered, that the children had been brought, only with a view to their receiving presents. One day a man brought his son on board the Resolution, and presented him to the Captain; who was made to understand, that he wanted to have a white shirt. The request being granted, the boy went all over the ship, shewing his new dress. This freedom offended Old Will, the ram goat, then on board, who giving him a butt with his horns, knocked him backward on the deck. Will would have repeated the blow, had not some people come to the boy's assistance. The shirt being dirtied by this adventure, the boy was sadly afraid to face his father in the cabin, till introduced by Mr. Forster; when he preferred a heavy complaint 142 OOOKS SECOND VOYAGE. against Gourey, the great dog, as he called the goat; and could not be pacified, till the shirt was washed and dried for him. The dog being the principal beast in New Zealand, the natives applied the term to every quadruped on board ; just as, for a similar reason, the Tahitians, even at this day, designate all quadrupeds imported by Europeans as hogs, distinguishing each by an appropriate epithet; the goat being the horned hog; the sheep, the inoffensive hog; the horse, the man-carry- ing-lwg, &c. During his stay here, Capt. Cook was visited by several different families, or small tribes, in succession. On the 4th of June, while some of one family were on board, another more numerous came to the place; and when one of their double canoes, approached, the natives on board were greatly alarmed, and wanted the British to fire on them, as they were their enemies. But the Captain, on the contrary, invited the strangers on board; and their chief, after performing the usual ceremonies, came into the ship with some of his people; when peace was immediately established on all sides. About an hundred of this new tribe, with six canoes, being at Motuara, the Captain, with Mr. Forster and others, went in a boat to visit them, and met with a very friendly reception. Some presents were given them, and their attention was directed to the gardens planted on the island. The party soon returned on board, where they spent the remainder of the 4th, being His Majesty's birthday, in festivity. Capt. Furneaux and his officers were entertained on board the Resolution, and the crews of both ships had a double allowance, that they might participate in the general joy. QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND. 143 It is remarkable, that while almost every family and tribe that visited the ship inquired for Tupia, and shewed that they knew the value of the articles distributed by the Endeavour, the Captain did not recognize among them a single individual of those whom he had seen in his first voyage. Hence he justly inferred, that the different independent families, or small tribes, in this part of New Zealand, lead a migratory life, moving about from one part of the coast to another; being able to carry their whole property with them in their canoes, and finding themselves at home wherever they could meet with supplies. In this way, the knowledge of the Endeavour, of Tupia, and of European articles, would circulate the more rapidly and widely through the country. Captain Cook had intended, on quitting New Zealand, to return to Van Diemen's Land, in order to determine whether it was connected with New Holland or not; but as his brother navigator, who had seen both, and whose accuracy he was not disposed to question, was confident that they were united, he now changed his plan; resolving to explore the southern hemisphere to the eastward, between 41 and 46° S. latitude, as far as the 140th or 135th degree of W. longitude; and then, if no other country was discovered, proceed to Otaheite. This plan, with the subsequent part of his intended researches, he communicated to Capt. Furneaux, with directions where to join him, in case of separation. Most mariners would have deemed it imprudent, to attempt exploring the southern hemisphere in so high a latitude, in the month of June, the midst of the Antarctic winter; but our navigator wished ' COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. to prosecute his researches without loss of time, and was even desirous of shewing, that those seas might be navigated in the very depth of winter. On monday, June 7th, both vessels set sail from Ship Cove, and next morning they got quite through Cook's Straits; after which, they steered in a S.E. direction, and passed the meridian of 180° on friday, the 11th, thus getting into W. longitude. In proceeding eastward in their intended track, they found the weather variable, sometimes moderate, at other times rough; and when, on Saturday, July 27th, they reached 133° 32' W. longitude, 39° 44' S. latitude, without meeting land, or any signs of it, they directed their course to the northward ; Capt. Cook thus choosing a track, which, as far as he knew, no former navigator had taken. On thursday, the 29th, the ships having got into a warmer climate, he sent to inquire after the Adventure's crew, as he had heard that they were sickly; and he found that the cook had died, and twenty of the best men were ill of scurvy and flux. At this time, there were but three on the sick list in the Resolution, only one of whom was afflicted.* with scurvy; a difference easily accounted for, as the Resolution's people had partaken much more freely of the beer and vegetables at New Zealand, than those on board the Adventure. He sent one of his seamen to be cook of the Adventure, and instructed Capt. Furneaux to employ various means for arresting the disorder. Most of these means had already been adopted ; and the health of the crew, in a few days after, began to improve. On the 11th of August, a small island was discovered, and named Resolution Island; another, observed on the same day, was called Doubtful OTAHEITE. 145 Island; a third, seen next day, was termed Fur- ^aux Island; and a fourth, wjhjch was styled Adven|ure Island, appeared on the 13th: all belonging to the cluster which Bougainville discovered* and which he properly named the Dangerous Archipelago. In the evening of the 13th, Chain Island was seen, discovered in Cook's first voyage; in the morning of the 15th, Mai tea, the Osnaburgh Island of Wallis, appeared; and towards evening, Otaheite was descried, to the westward. Our navigators had for some time :^5§en eagerly longing to reach Otaheite; but it sometimes happens, that the most serious dangers await us, where nothing but pleasure was anticipated. Qtaheite, so ardently desired by Capt. Cook and his shipmates, nearly p$|ved their ruin. He had determined to anchor first in Oaitipiha Bay, in the southern peninsula, to get such supplies as the place afforded, before proceeding to Matavai : but when the ships were approaching the bay, on monday morning, August 16th, the wind failed, and in spite of the efforts made by the boats to tow the ships off, they were in the utmost danger of striking on the coral reef. At length, when they were opposite an opening in the reef, the flood tide carried them towards it with great impetuosity; a warping machine was presently carried out from the Resolution, but without effect; and as a last resource, though they had found no bottom, an anchor was dropped, which eventually took hold, but not till the ship was in less than three fathoms water, where she struck at every fall of the sea, and was exposed to a dreadful surf. Happily the Adventure brought up near the reef, without striking. The situation of our mariners was now fearfully critical. 11 J I 146 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. Had the sea breeze set in as usual, the Resolution must inevitably have been lost, and probably the Adventure also. But, through a gracious providence, the calm continued, which gave an opportunity for getting the Resolution afloat, by means of two kedge anchors; and the tide at length turning, while a land breeze arose, both ships were extricated from their perilous situation, with the loss of three anchors and a cable belonging to the Adventure. During this season of alarm, many natives came on board from their canoes, with cocoa-nuts and other fruits, which they sold for nails, beads, &c.; but they did not seem to be aware that the ships were in danger. Most of them recognized Capt. Cook; many inquired for Mr. Banks and other gentlemen; but not one inquired for Tupia, or for the person who went with Bougainville from this district of Otaheite. As soon as the ships were safely anchored in the bay, both were crowded with natives. Some who called themselves chiefs, received presents of shirts, axes, &c, and promised to bring hogs and fowls in return; a promise which they failed to perform. For some days, no hogs were brought to the market: it was alleged, that all the hogs belonged to Waheatua, the King of the southern peninsula. On Wednesday evening, some people inquired after Tupia; and when informed that his death was caused by sickness, they were satisfied. From them the Captain learned, that the two kingdoms of Otaheite had been at war, about five months before his arrival; that Tootaha, Toubourai Tamaide, and others of his friends, had fallen in battle; that peace had since been restored; and that Otoo, for whom Tootaha OAITIPIHA BAY. 147 was regent, was now reigning himself in the larger peninsula. Having been daily annoyed with petty thefts committed by the natives, Capt. Cook found it expedient, on Wednesday, to turn them all out of the ship; and to frighten the offenders by firing two muskets over them, and afterwards a great gun. He also seized two of their canoes; in one of which was a little boy, who was terribly alarmed; but the Captain soothed him by giving him a few beads, after which he was set on shore. Peace was re-established in a few hours, and the canoes were returned. On friday evening, when a fellow ran off with a musket belonging to the guard on shore, the other natives who were present, dreading the consequences, pursued the thief, knocked him down, and brought it back. On Saturday, a chief presented, along with some fruit, a quantity of empty cocoa-nuts, which had been thrown overboard after the milk was extracted, and which he had artfully tied up in bundles, as fresh nuts. He did not seem at all disconcerted at the detection of the cheat; but pretended to be surprised when they were opened and found empty. On monday, the 23rd, Captains Cook and Furneaux, with Mr. Forster and others, paid a visit to the King, who had come hither to see them. They found him seated on a stool, within a circle of his people. Our navigator immediately recognized him, as a youth whom he had seen in 1769. He was then called Tearee; but had now assumed the name of his deceased father, Waheatua. He also knew the Captain at first sight, and placed him on the same stool with himself, while the rest of the company sat on the ground. He inquired 148 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. after several gentlemen by name, whom he had formerly seen with Capt. Cook: and when the Captain told him, that the ships were to sail next day, he begged that their stay might be prolonged, promising to furnish a good supply of hogs. Three were received from him, in return for an axe, a shirt, and other presents; and several more were bought at the trading place. The crews of both ships had been much refreshed by supplies of fruit and vegetables; and now they enjoyed a comfortable meal of fresh pork. Arrangements having been made for sailing next day, Waheatua's invitation to remain some days longer was declined; the ships sailed out of the bay on tuesday, and arrived at Matavai on Wednesday evening. Before the ships came to an anchor, they were crowded with natives ; many of whom Capt. Cook recognized, while almost all of them knew him. A crowd also assembled on shore, in the midst of which was King Otoo; but he soon ran off in a fright to Oparre. Next day, the two Captains, with some of the scientific gentlemen, and a chief named Maritata, went to Oparre, to pay him a visit. They found him seated on the ground, under the shade of a tree, with an immense crowd around him. He was a tall youth, about thirty years old, of a very timid disposition. When invited to visit the ships, he expressed his fears of the guns ; and when on a future day, a broad sword was presented to him, and buckled to his side, he could not feel at ease, till it was removed, and conveyed out of sight. At this first interview, Capt. Cook gave him some valuable presents. He inquired for Tupia, and the gentlemen who formerly accompanied our navigator, mentioning each by name. All his MATAVAI BAY. 149^ people, not excepting his father Whappai, had their head and shoulders uncovered in his presence. On the same day, observatories were set up on Point Venus, and tents for the sick; twenty afflicted with scurvy were landed from the Adventure, and one only from the Resolution. A marine belonging to the latter, who had long been diseased, but not with scurvy, died in Oaitipiha Bay. On the 27th, Otoo visited the Captain, with a numerous train, bringing a hog, with fruit, fish, and cloth, as a present. He went on board, with his sister, brother, and some attendants ; and Capt. Cook, after giving presents to each, took them home to Oparre in his boat. Upon his landing there, the Captain was met by a venerable old lady, the mother of Tootaha; who seized him by both hands, and bursting into tears, cried out, Tootaha tayo no Tootee matte Tootaha—(i Tootaha the friend of Cook—Tootaha is dead!" The Captain was much affected, and was ready to mingle his tears with hers, when Otoo took him away from her. With difficulty he was allowed another interview, when he gave her an axe and other presents. On a future day she presented him with some cloth; she was then more composed, but still she could not look on him without shedding tears. Otoo and his attendants visited both ships more than once, and the Captains and their friends paid him several visits. Capt. Cook entertained him with the music of the bagpipes, and a dance performed by the sailors; and the King entertained his visitors with a native dance, and afterwards with a heiva, or native play, accompanied with music and dancing. The harmony of their intercourse was in danger of being disturbed by a riot 150 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. created on shore, in the evening of August 30th, by some seamen and marines; when alarm was spread among the inhabitants, and the timorous King fled several miles from his house; but the offenders were taken and punished, and the King- was brought back. On tuesday the 31st, the Captains and their friends paid him a final visit, when he received from Capt. Cook three Cape wethers. Capt. Furneaux had previously given him a pair of goats, male and female. He now sent for three hogs, as presents to the Captains and Mr. Forster; and one of the three being noticed as small, it was exchanged for a larger. Otoo embraced Capt. Cook several times at parting, and seemed much moved. A few more hogs were obtained from Potatow, a friendly ehie£ and from Oamo. On visiting the latter, Lieut. Pickersgill saw his wife Oberea, once venerated as Queen of the island, but now grown old, poor, and of little consequence. Wh^n the ships were about to sail, a young man named Poreo offered to go in the Resolution ; but after he had got an axe and a spike nail for his pretended father, another person came to demand him. The Captain perceiving that a trick had been played, kept him on board. A Spanish ship, which had visited Otaheite three months before the arrival of the Resolution and Adventure, had taken away four of the natives. The tents having been taken down, and the sick, who had greatly recovered, being received on board, our navigators quitted Otaheite, on Wednesday, September 1st, and on the 3rd they arrived at the harbour of Owharre ( or Fare) in Huaheine. Here they met with a kind reception, and purchased a HUAHEINE, 151 plentiful supply of hogs, fowls, and fruit. King Oree was .s$ill alive, and hastened to meet with his friend. The Captains and Mr. Forster were introduced to ham with much ceremony. Five young plantain trees were carried into the boat, with three young pigs and a dog; and lastly, the pewter plate with the inscription, left in 1769, which with some beads and a counter had been carefully preserved in a bag. In return, three young plantain trees werer at the desire of their guide, decorated with looking- glasses, nails, medals, and beads; and, with these in their hands, the three visitors advanced towards the King, an avenue being made for them to pass through the crowd. The plantains were taken from their hands, and laid one by one before the King my the first being said to be for Eatoua—" God," the next for Earee—" the King," and the third for Tayo —" friendship." These ceremonies being ended, Oree advanced to Capt. Cook, fell on his neck, and affectionately embraced him; while the tears that trickled copiously down his venerable old cheeks,, bespoke the language of his heart. Through the kindness of this worthy chief and his people, not less than 300 hogs were procured by gift or purchase, with great quantities of excellent fruits and roots. The exchange of names between him and the Captain was considered as still existing; and every day he sent, for the table of his friend, a plentiful supply of the very best fruits and roots, ready drest. Notwithstanding the warm friendship of the King, some of his subjects shewed a very different spirit. On monday, September 6th, a chief completely equipped in his war habits, was very troublesome and insolent at the trading place; which p 1 II 152 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. Capt. Cook observing, took from him his two clubs, broke them before his eyes, and forced him to retiree A guard was then placed here, to prevent further insults. On the same day, Mr. Sparrman having imprudently gone out alone botanizing, was assaulted by two men, who stripped him of every thing except his trowsers, and struck him repeatedly with hfe«own hanger. Another of the natrfles gave him a piece of cloth to cover him, and conducted him to the trading place. His appearance in this pitiful plight, filled the natives with alarm for the consequences; so that they all fled from the spot. The Captain recalled a few of them, and assured them, that such as were innocent of the crime that had been committed, had nothing to fear. He then repaired to the King, to complain of the outrage, taking with him the man who brought back Mr. Sparrman. The good King wept aloud at the recital of the robbery, as did many of his attendants. He then expostulated with his people who were present, on the disgrace of this transaction, reminding them that Oree (for so he named Cook) had behaved towards them with much kindness, both now, and on his former visit. Having taken an inventory of the articles igazed by the robbers, he hastened to set out with Capt. Cook in pursuit of them ; and in spite of the earnest entreaties and tears of his people, who dreaded his putting himself in the power of our navigator, he resolutely stepped into the boat, while his weeping subjects were ready to pull him back by force. The Captain, under these circumstances, was reluctant to take him; but he insisted on going. They landed on a part of the coast where the robbers were supposed to be skulking; but after travelling some HUAHEINE. 153 miles into the country, without overtaking them, the Captain determined on returning, and the King, with great reluctance, consented to give up the pursuit. On regaining the boat, they found Oree's sister at the place, and some others who had come hither by land. His sister, as well as he, insisted on returning in the boat, notwithstanding the tears and entreaties of their friends; and the Captain rewarded their confidence in him by liberal presents. They were set ashore in safety at Owharre, where hundreds welcomed their arrival, and many embraced their King with tears of joy. Mr. Sparrman's hanger, and part of his coat, were soon after restored; with some things that had been stolen from a shooting party. The Captains and Mr. Forster paid the King a farewell visit, on tuesday, the 7th ; when along with other presents, there was given him a copper plate, *B#gribed, "Anchored here, His Britannic Majesty's Ships Resolution and Adventure, September 1773." The pewter plate was also returned, and both were put in a bag, with some medals, to be carefully preserved, and shewn to future visitors. He gave them presents in return, and embraced Capt. Cook at parting,: with tears in his eyes. He afterwards came on board, to beg them to go ashore, and see punishment inflicted on the robbers, who had just been apprehended; but the vessels being under way, the invitation was declined. He went out with them full half a league, when again taking an affectionate leave of the Captain, he retutaied in his canoe, with but one attendant, all the rest having gone long before.—At this place, Capt. Furneaux took on board the Adventure a young man named Omai, a native of Ulietea, where he COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. bad had some property, of which he had been dispossessed by the men of Bolabola. The ships anchored in the harbour of Ohamane- no, in Ulietea, on Wednesday morning. Here alse our people were kindly treated, and had the offer of more hogs and fruit than they could take. The inquiries after Tupia, were far more frequent here than at Huaheine, or Otaheite. Mr. Banks was every where inquired after. Oreo, the chief of thisi part of the island, an old acquaintance of Capt, Cook, gave him and his companions a welcome reception; and, as the strongest pledge of friendship, exchanged names with him. He treated him and his friends with a heiva more than once. Many presents were interchanged, and much trade was carried on. On tuesday, the 14th, the Captains, with other officers and gentlemen, from both ships, dined with Oreo, on baked hogs, bread-fruit,, and other native provisions, all excellently and cleanly dressed. After they had dined, the boat's crew, and native attendants, consumed what was left; and the common people were eager to pick up the crumbs that had fallen among the leaves which served for a table-cloth. The poor were observed to have very indifferent fare: several of them daily attended the ships, and assisted the butchers, to obtain from them the entrails of.the hogs. Oh Wednesday, the 15th, the natives discovered unaccountable terror and sorrow: Oreo and his family fled from their house, and the whole neighbourhood was in a manner deserted. The few who durst venture near, spoke with strong symptoms of fear, about guns, and about people killed and wounded. Capt. Cook, unable to divine the_cause ULIETEA. 155 of this alarm, and afraid that some disaster had befallen Lieut. Pickersgill and two boats crews, whom he had sent to Otaha to purchase a sea stock of bananas and plantains, resolved to see Oreo, and inquire what had happened. Taking a boat with some of his people, and a native, he rowed to the northward, and soon came in sight of Oreo's canoe. The chief landed, and the Captain followed him; a crowd being on the shore encouraging him to land. Here he first met the chiefs wife, a venerable old lady, who threw herself into his arms, and wept bitterly. Oreo, in like manner, as soon as the Captain reached him, threw his arms about him, and burst into tears; while the women, and almost all around, joined him in loud lamentations. The Captain looked on with amazement, unable to account for this universal grief, or to get a word of explanation on the subject. At last upon close inquiry he discovered, that all this alarm and grief had arisen from the absence of the two boats crews; it was supposed that they had deserted, and that hostilities would be carried on against the whole island till they were recovered. The Captain dispelled their fears, by assuring them that the boats had gone by his orders, and would soon return. He then came on board, accompanied by some of the natives, who proclaimed the peace to all whom they saw, in rowing along the shore. At this time, Poreo, the Tahitian youth who had come hither in the Resolution, having conceived an attachment to a young woman whom he met here, went away with her, and returned no more. His place was more than supplied by Oedidee, a young man of 17 or 18 years, a native of Bolabola, and a near relation of the great Opoony, the King 156 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE* of that island; whom Capt. Cook received on board the Resolution, in preference to several other natives who begged to accompany him. The boats having returned from Otaha, well laden with plantains, our navigators having now obtained here abundant supplies of fresh provisions, including no less than 400 hogs, resolved to set sail. On friday, September 17th, they took their leave of Oreo and his son, who came on board for that purpose. Mutual presents and expressions of kindness were interchanged; the chief begging Captain Cook to return, and requesting him to say when he would renew his visit. Such questions were often put to our kind hearted navigator : it was with regret that those who knew his worth consented to part with him; and they usually sought to alleviate the sorrows of parting, by the hope of reunion. CHAPTER XII. Hervey's Island discovered. Arrival at Eaoowee. Friendly reception there, and at Tongataboo. Services of Attago. Copious supplies obtained. Stupidity of the Areeke^ or King. Passage to New Zealand. Resolution and Adventure parted in stormy weather. Arrival of the Resolution in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Friendly intercourse with the natives. Capt. Cook's care to stock the country with useful animals and vegetables. Shocking instance of cannibalism witnessed. Healthful state of the crew of the Resolution, which prosecutes the voyage to the Antarctic regions without the Adventure. Approach to the South Pole. Return northward. Plans formed by the Captain: his sickness and recovery. Having taken their departure from Ulietea, on friday, September 17th, our voyagers steered a westerly course, inclining to the south. On the 23rd, an island, or cluster of islets, was discovered, and named Hervey's Island. It abounded with cocoa-nut trees, but no inhabitants were seen. From thence they pursued their course, till on friday, October 1st, they arrived at Middleburg, or Eaoowee, one of the group discovered by Tas- man, in 1643, which Capt. Cook afterwards named the Friendly Islands. At Middleburg, the natives came boldly alongside in canoes, and some of them came on board, before the ships anchored in what was henceforth called English Road. Among those who boarded the Resolution was a chief named Tioony, who 158 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. was^ highly pleased with a hatchet and other presents given him; and who accompanied the Captains and their friends to the beach, where an immense crowd, all unarmed, received them kindly, and promptly bartered pieces of cloth and matting, for nails and other articles. Some, indeed, handed bales of cloth into the boats, without waiting to receive any thing in return. Tioony conducted the visitors through the crowd to his own house, which stood at the head of a fine lawn, under the shade of some shaddock trees, commanding a most delightful view of the sea, and of the interesting scenery around. Here the natives were treated with a tune on the bagpipes; and in return, three young women sung a song, and these receiving gifts, all the women present began to sing also. The strangers were then taken to another house of the chief, in an adjoining plantation; where they were treated with bananas, cocoa-nuts, and a bowl of ava, prepared in their presence. Capt. Cook alone tasted the latter, which was brewed, as in other South Sea Islands, by the natives chewing the root, spitting out the juice into a bowl, and then diluting it with water. The party returned on board to dine, accompanied by Tioony, who declined to partake. After dinner, they again went on shore with him^ .and while Mr. Forster and others were botanizing in the country, the Captains were conducted to Tioony's house; where fruit and greens were set before them, to which Oedidee and Omai did ample justice. He then shewed them his rich and extensive plantations, all well laid out, neatly inclosed with reed fences, and planted with various fruit trees and roots. Hogs and large fowls were It TONGATABOO. 159 seen near the houses, and in the lanes between the plantations; but none were offered for sale. Next day, the Captains and their comrades, having taken a friendly leave of Tioony and his people, proceeded to the island of Amsterdam, or Tongataboo. Here their reception was equally agreeable. White flags were displayed along the shore, as emblems of peace; many people came off to them in canoes, presented them with some ava root, and invited them ashore by friendly signs. When they had anchored in Van Diemen's Road, the natives crowded on board, and began to traffic with the seamen, by exchanging native cloth for some of their clothes. This barter being likely to hurt the seamen, and hinder the purchase of provisions, Capt. Cook prudently put a stop to it; and the natives finding that nothing but eatables would be bought, brought plenty of fruit next day, with some pigs and fowls; for which they received nails and pieces of cloth. Before our people had landed, a chief named Attago attached himself to Capt. Cook, and exchanged names with him. He proved of great service during the stay of the ships, attending the Captain from morning till night, and acting as a guide and agent in almost every transaction. The Captains and scientific gentlemen were received kindly on shore; and while the latter went into the country, the former, after stopping a short time on the beach, and distributing presents to those whom Attago pointed out as chiefs, some of whom were his superiors, rested under the shade of a tree, the natives forming a circle around them. The Captains expressing a desire to see the country, Attago led them along a lane, to an open green, IE I S:i 160 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. in front of an afiatooca, or place of worship. It was a raised mount, with a house upon it, towards which three elderly men, sitting down on the green, directed a speech or prayer. On going to the house, which, like the dwelling houses, was constructed with posts and rafters, and covered with palm thatch, the visitors observed two rude images within. Attago, when asked if they were gods, did not seem to understand the question; but as he tumbled them about very roughly, it did not appear that they were viewed with much veneration. Similar structures were observed by our people, in their rambles through the island; the whole of which they found in a high state of cultivation, abounding with the richest tropical fruits and vegetables. The plantations were fenced with reeds, and intersected with narrow roads, generally shaded with trees. When the party had returned on board to dine, an old chief, superior to Attago, came on board, and tasted both fish and wine with them. After dinner, this chief, who went on shore before the officers, took a walk with them into the country. Before they set out, Mr. Wales, who had taken off his shoes and stockings, to wade ashore from the boat, had them snatched from him; and being unable to pursue the thief along the sharp coral rocks, was left in an awkward predicament. Attago, however, soon found out the thief, and brought them back. The old chief shewed his visitors a pool of fresh water, a scarce article in these islands: and having conducted them down to the shore of Maria Bay, shewed them a large double canoe of his own, not yet launched. The canoes of these islanders were better constructed than those of TONGATABOO. 161 Otaheite; but their cloth was inferior. Their language was nearly the same, and their persons were tattooed in a similar way.—The chief presented Capt. Cook with a hog; and many other hogs were purchased on that day and the following, with abundance of fruits and fowls. Affer this, the seamen were again permitted to traffic for curiosMes; but various thefts and frauds were committed by the natives. In one instance, a thief was fired at, but not hurt. On Wednesday, October 6th, Capt. Cook and his friends were introduced to the Areeke, or King, of the island; who sat before them with sultai and stupid gravity, neither answering their addresses, nor returning their salutes, nor noticing the presents given him. He sent on board, however, a quantity of excellent provisions, ready dressed, for the Areeke of the ship. On paying him a farewell visit next day, they found him in the same stupid posture, motionless as a statue, and seemingly unconscious of their attentions, their presents, and other objects around him. A friendly leave was taken of the old chief, and afterwards of Attago; who begged that Capt. Cook would return, and bring him, among other things, a suit of clothes like his own uniform. In heaving the coasting cable of the Resolution, it parted in the middle, being chafed by the sharp coral rocks; so that the anchor was lost, and half the cable. The supplies procured here, amounted to 150 hogs, 300 fowls, a few yams, and abundant supplies of bananas and cocoa-nuts. The natives of these islands appeared to be well made and healthy. The females were generally modest, but lively and merry. Some cases of 12 il 162 COOK> SECOND VOYAGE. a loathsome disease being on board, Capt. Cook took all possible care to prevent it from being communicated to the inhabitants. It would be well, if under all circumstances, our seamen were prohibited from that illicit intercourse with females, by which they have too often disgraced themselves in foreign lands. On quitting the Friendly Islands, Capt. Cook resolved to proceed direct to Queen Charlotte's Sound, in New Zealand ; and from thence set out again to prosecute his discoveries towards the south and east. It was on thursday, October 7th, that our mariners left Tongataboo; and on the 8th, they saw the islpad of Filstart, also discovered by Tasman. On thursday, the 21st, they arrived off New Zealand, near that part of the coast which Capt. Cook first discovered. When they were near Cape Kidnappers, two canoes came off to them; one containing some fishermen, who exchanged fish for some nails and pieces of cloth ; the other, two chiefs, who received some nails with much eagerness. Capt. Cook committed to them some pigs, fowls, seeds, and roots, to stock this part of the country; the people of which he considered as more civilized than those of Queen Charlotte's Sound. The chiefs promised to take care of the pigs and fowls, as well as to sow the seeds, and plant the roots. These people remembered the Endeavour, and expressed their fears of the guns. After these men had left him, Capt. Cook proceeded southward beyond Cape Turnagain, with a view to pass through Cook's Strait, and revisit Queen Charlotte's Sound. But very stormy and squally weather coming on, with adverse winds, and a few intervals of calm, he was for some days . QUEEN CHARLOTTE S SOUND. baffied in all his at$ea&pts to pass through the Strait; being some^pigs driven out to sea, sometimes to the south, and sometimes to the north. His $kjpculties were augmented by having frequently to wait for the Adventure, which here, as in other parts of the voyage, was often a good way to leeward. Twice during these tempests, the ships lost sight of each other, but again joined. A thircl time, however, tie Adventure disappeared fluking heavy gales at the entrance of the Strait, and was no more seen. Capt. Cook would have steered into a large bay, in the southern division of New Zealand, had the Adventure been with him; but Queen Charlotte's Sound was their appointed rendezvous. He anchored two hours at an iapiJet, where some natives came off, and received with avidity a few nails that were given them; but seemed very indifferent about two couples of fowls, that were committed to their charge, with a view to stock that part of New Zealand. At length, on the 3rd of November, the Resolution was safely moored in Ship Cove; but the Adventure, which was supposed to have got there first, had not arrived. The sails and rigging having been much damaged by the recent gales, measures were promptly taken for repairing them. Tents were erected for the sailmakers and coopers; and the smith's forge was set up. Fresh supplies of wood and water were taken on board; the biscuit was aired and picked, that part which was wholly wasted being taken away, and that which was partially damaged being rebaked. Among the natives who now visited the ship, there were several whom Capt. Cook recollected to HI 164 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. have seen in his first voyage ; particularly an old man named Goubiah. He was reported to have killed the goats that were put on shore up the sound; although, according to other statements, they were still alive. The youngest of the two sows, left by Capt. Furneaux, was found alive among these people, who intimated that the boar and the other sow were preserved elsewhere. The gardens were found in a flourishing state, the natives having touched nothing except the potatoes. As these people appeared to take care of the animals left with them, the Captain now gave them a boar and a young sow, along with some fowls. The traffic carried on with the natives at this time was principally for fish, which they were much more dexterous in catching than our people. Some petty thefts were committed ; and the Captain was one day much amused in observing, that a chief who pretended to keep off the people, and prevent them from stealing, contrived to pick his pocket of a handkerchief; and then professed his innocence of the theft, till the handkerchief was taken out of his bosom, when he put it off with a laugh. Six small casks having been stolen from the watering place on the morning of the 7th, the natives, dreading the consequences, all decamped. Some of them, however, returned on the 10th, and the traffic in fish was resumed. Green talc was also an article of traffic, pieces being purchased by the seamen as curiosities. On monday, the 15th, the Captain, with Mr. Forster and others, ascended a hill which he had climbed in 1770, to look out for the Adventure; but nothing was seen of her. He therefore resolved to proceed on his voyage without her, after waiting QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND. 165 a few days longer. In the mean time, his anxiety to benefit the country by stocking it with useful animals, was still displayed. He put on shore in the woods, at the bottom of the West Bay, a boar and three sows, with food to serve them for several days; that they might not come down to the shore in search of food, and be discovered by the natives. Some fowls were left in the same quarter, and others in the woods at Ship Cove. A pair of goats would also have been left f but the he goat when on shore was seized with fits, and running off along the beach, was irrecoverably lost, being supposed to have been drowned in the sea. The boatswain and a party, being in the woods cutting broom, found a private hut of the natives, containing their most valuable property received from the British : and the natives having come to the Captain, complaining that some of these treasures had been stolen, the man whom they pointed out as the thief, was punished before them. On the same day, some officers visiting the huts of the natives, found some human thigh bones from which the flesh had been recently picked. Next day, some of the officers going ashore to amuse themselves among the people, saw the head and bowels of a youth who had been lately killed, lying on the beach, and the heart stuck on a forked stick, fixed to the head of a large canoe. The head was purchased and brought on board, where a part of the flesh was broiled and eaten by one of the natives, before all the officers, and most of the men. The Captain was then absent, and when he returned on board, he was struck with horror, mingled with indignation^ at the sight of the head, and the recital of the circumstances. But curiosity 166 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. got the better of his indignation; and desiring to be an eye witness of what had been doubted by his countrymen at home, he ordered a piece of the flesh to be broiled and brought on the quarter deck, where it was devoured by one of these cannibals with surprising avidity. Many on board were made sick by the shocking spectacle. Oedidee stood for some time petrified with horror, and when aroused from this state of stupor, he burst into tears, and wept and scolded by turns, calling them vile men, to whom he could no longer be a friend. He would not suffer them to touch him; and looked with disgust even on the knife that had cut the human flesh, and the gentleman who had used it. It was unders1j®od that these natives had made an expedition into Admiralty Bay, to the westward ; where, among others, this youth had been killed by them in battle. On the 24th, some of the gentlemen revisiting the spot, saw the heart still stuck on the canoe, and the intestines lying on the beach; except the liver and lungs, supposed to have been eaten, after the rest of the carcase had been devoured. While the Resolution lay here, the ship's company were well supplied with fresh vegetables; and the pork salted at Ulietea, and covered with pickle, was still excellent. Not an individual was now sick. Having taken every thing on board, oW fn&vi- gator sailed on thursday, the 25th; after depositing in*&e garden at the Cove, under the *oot of a tree, a bottle containing a letter to Capt. Furneaux, and inscribing oil %he stump of the tree the words " Look beneath." By this prudent device, Capt. Furneaux, who arrived only five days after, ANTARCTIC SEAS. 167 was made acquainted with Capt. Cook's intended course. In passing through Cook's Strait on the 25th and 26th, signal guns were fired from time to time, by the Resolution, in the hope that they mightbe heard and answered by her consort, if she had put into some creek or cove on either coast. It was afterwards found, that the Adventure, which had been driven out to sea, and subsequently put into Tola- ga Bay for wood and water, came into the Strait, only three or four days after the Resolution passed it. Captain Cook, however, having now waited longer than the time appointed, without seeing any thing of the Adventure, resolved to prosecute his voyage towards the Antarctic regions with the Resolution alone; and his officers and men had such entire confidence in his skill and talents, that not a man was dejected; all proceeded on this voyage with as much cheerfulness as if the Adventure had been in company. Taking their departure from Cape Palliser, on* friday the 26th, our voyagers advanced to the south and east; and on monday, December 6th, they reckoned themselves antipodes to their friends in London. Pursuing their course amidst variable weather, they saw the first iceberg on the 12th; being then in lat. 62a 10' S. long. 172° W. Here also they began to meet with the antarctic petrel, and other birds peculiar to the icy regions near the pole. Advancing southward till they reached 66°* lat. on the 15th, they incurred no small danger, in working their way among innumerable icebergs, and masses of loose ice, pieces of which were taken on board to melt for fresh water. Their perils were often increased by thick foggy weather, and 168 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. showers of snow; which made it necessary to steer with much caution. To lessen their danger*, . they returned a little towards the north, and then stretched to the east; but the weather clearing up, they again resumed a southerly course, and crossed the antarctic circle once more, on monday the 20th. They now met with islands of ice, lofty and rugged, with numerous peaks; and on the 23rd, the cold being most intense, the ropes were glazed over with ice, the sails were stiff like boards, and the shivers frozen in the blocks. They had now reached 67° 20' S. lat., and in this dismal region they spent their Christmas, amidst numerous islands of ice, about 100 being then in sight. The number of icebergs and masses of ice appearing still greater on the 26th, it was found necessary again to take a more northerly course; and after reaching 134° 17' W. long., Captain Cook turned back towards the N.W., resolving to move in a zigzag course, in different latitudes, that no considerable country or island, in those seas, might escape discovery. On monday, Jan. 3rd, 1774, he attained 140° 31' W. long., and 56° S. lat., when contrary winds obliged him to turn, and steer towards the N.E. In this direction he persevered till tuesday, the 11th ; when, being in lat. 47°t#l' S., long. 122° 12' W., he altered his course, and advanced towards the S.E. On the 20th, he was again among icebergs, in lat. 62° 34'; one of them was large and lofty, not less than 200 feet high, terminating in a peak resembling the cupola of St. Paul's. After steering eastward to 108° 7' W. longitude, our navigator finding tfe weather bright, and the sea clear of ice, again advanced towards the south, and on the 26th recrossed the antarctic APPROACH TO THE SOUTH POLE. 169 circle; where islands of ice again appeared, and small masses were taken on board for a supply of fresh water. Notwithstanding the increase of icebergs, and occasional fogs, he persevered in his course, till he reached the latitude of 71° 10'; a much higher south latitude than any navigator had hitherto attained. His progress was then arrested by a compact field of ice, ranging east and west, from which a reflected light illuminated all the southern half of the horizon. From this vast field, mountains of ice rose in various places, to a height far beyond what our mariners had ever seen or heard of. This icy continent, Capt. Cook considered as probably extending to the south pole, or its vicinity, where it might be joined to land inaccessible to man. And now, having got as near to the south pole as it seemed possible to reach, he tacked and stood towards the north, amidst variable weather. During his progress northward, our navigator was employed in arranging plans for the further prosecution of his voyage; and these were formed on a scale proportioned to the grasp of his own gigantic mind. Het detennined to go in search of the land said to have been discovered by Juan Fernandez, about the latitude of 38° S., and next proceed : to visit Easter Island, or Davis's Land; then, to get within the tropics, visiting various islands, to ascertain correctly their positions; and, having stopped at Otaheite, where the Adventure might hav% touched, to run )$g$tward as far as the Tierra austral del Espiritu Santo of Quiros; and thence advance to the south, and afterwards to the east, so as to be as far as Cape Horn in November, with a view to employ the southern summer in 170 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. exploring the South Atlantic ocean. These plans> vast as they were, met the hearty approbation of the gentlemen on board; and even the seamen, who were all in excellent health, having only felt slight colds occasionally since they left New Zealand, were far from being dissatisfied with the prospect of being another year on the voyage, and were now cheered with the hope of enjoying within the tropics the benefits of a milder climate. Such, indeed, were the commanding talents and high character of our hero, that all on board were ready to adopt his plans, and prompt to fulfil his wishes: and they seemed to catch from him something of that spirit of enthusiasm for discovery, which inspired him with conceptions so large, urged him on in his noble career, and made dangers and difficulties to vanish before him. After encountering some violent storms, our navigator carefully searched for the land said to have been seen by Juan Fernandez; but found nothing in or near the place where it had been laid down. He therefore concluded, that, if any such discovery ever was made, it must be only a very small island. In proceeding from hence in search of Easter Island, the Captain was taken seriously ill of a bilious cholic, which confined him to his bed for several days. On this occasion, Mr. Patten, the surgeon, not only acted the part of a skilful physician, but of an affectionate nurse. When patients begin to recover their appetite, singular fancies will sometimes seize them; and when the Captain began to be convalescent, he took a fancy to have Mr. Forster-s favourite dog killed for him, there being no other fresh meat on board J and he THE CAPTAIN'S SICKNESS AND RECOVERY. 171 relished both the flesh and the broth, which contributed to restore his health and strength. Some fresh fish, caught at the time, proved also of service. During the Captain's illness, Lieut. Cooper conducted the ship, and every thing went on in due order. mm CHAPTER XIIL Arrival at Easter Island. Friendly reception: tour througft the island. Few refreshments got. Voyage to the Marquesas, and incidents there. A thief unfortunately shot. Notices respecting the inhabitants. Other islands visited, or observed. Arrival at Otaheite: kindness of Otoo and his people: improved state of the country. Large fleet of canoes. Friendly conduct of Towha, the Admiral, and other chiefs. A thief punished by Capt. Cook in the presence of Otoo. Small fleet reviewed. Musket stolen, and recovered. Liberal supplies of provisions. Another fleet of canoes. Affectionate parting with Otoo and his friends. Remarks on the population of Otaheite. Visit to Huaheine: kindness of King Oree. Robberies committed. An armed party sent into the country to check them. Dramatic representations. Arrival at Ulietea. Friendly behaviour of Oreo and his family. Native plays and entertainments. Visit to Oedidee's paternal estate. Affectionate parting with Oreo, and other natives; especially with Oedidee, who left the* Resolution on its departure from Ulietea. On monday, March 11th, Easter Island came in sight; and in the evening of the 13th, the Resolution anchored opposite a sandy heach on the west side of the island. As the ship approached the land, two natives came off in a canoe; and, after presenting a hunch of plantains, returned ashore. Soon after, another native visited the ship, and came on board, where he remained two nights and a day. The first thing he did on entering, was to measure the length of the ship by fathoming her; and it was observed, that in counting the fathoms he made use of the Tahitian numerals, though in other respects the language of the natives differed consi- EASTER ISLAND. 173 derably from that of Otaheite; so that even Oedidee understood it very imperfectly. When the Captain and some of his people landed on the 14th, hundreds of the natives, all unarmed, welcomed them ashore. Having distributed among them some beads and trinkets, he made signs for something to eat; on which they brought a few potatoes, plantains, and sugar-canes; and exchanged them for nails, looking-glasses, and pieces of cloth. In carrying on this trade, they soon betrayed an inclination to cheat and to steal; so that our mariners were forced to be on their guard. Several European articles were seen among them, which they had procured from a Spanish ship that visited them in 1769. Some parts of the island appeared naked and barren; in other places there were plantations of vegetables; but there were no forests to yield supplies of wood, and all the water found near the shore was brackish. Next morning, Lieutenants Pickersgill and Edg- eumbe set out with a party to examine the country, while the Captain, on account of his recent illness, remained at the landing place, where a brisk traffic for provisions was carried on with the natives. The party were preceded in their excursion by a middle-aged chief, well tattooed, and having his face painted with a sort of white pigment. He bore in his hand a spear, with a piece of white cloth on it, as an ensign of peace. They visited several of those stone platforms, with colossal statuBs, first described in Roggewin's Voyage; and found most of them in ruins, with the statues laid prostrate. Some of the latter, measured by Mr. Wales, were from 15 to 27 feet long; and a few of those that were standing appeared much taller. In crossing miti 174 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. II the country, the gentlemen passed a few &U4&, the owners of which treated them with roasted potatoes and sugar-canes, and gave them water to quench their thirst, some wells of good waiter being found in the interior. Other natives, however, attempted to plunder them; and one man having snatched a bag and run off with it, was fired at with small shot. This occasioned some confusion and delay; but at length their guide, having hoisted his white flag, led them on as before, and no other attempt at theft occurred during the day. In passing a hill, they met with the chief of the island, who, like the E^g of Tongataboo, has the title Areeke. He was well tattooed and painted, and wore a better cloth than his attendants. To him the guide presented the white flag; and he gave it to another person, who preceded the party during the rest of their excursion. The houses of these people are poorly constructed; their canoes are small; their cloth is of the same kind with that of the Tahitians, though inferior in quality; and they use the same ovens for baking their food. Some fowls were seen among them, but no pigs. As Easter Island afforded neither wood nor water for the ship, and but few refreshments, Capt. Cook left it on Wednesday, the 16th, and steered for the Marquesas. On the voyage thither, he had a return of his bilious complaint; but it was neither violent, nor of long continuance. The weather being fine, the forge was set up on board, to repair the iron-work, and the decks and other parts of the ship were caulked. On Wednesday, April 6th, the most northerly island of the Marquesas was sgen; and this proving a new discovery, not observed by Mendana in 1595, MARQUESAS. 175 when he discovered the other four islands, it was named Hood's Island, after the young gentleman who first saw it. St. Pedro, La Dominica, and St. Christina came in sight soon after: and on the 7th the Resolution anchored in Mendana's port in St. Christina, after being nearly driven against the rocks, by violent squalls from the high land. Some canoes had followed the ship along the coast, and ten or twelve came near, as soon as she had anchored. At first the natives were shy; but a hatchet and some spike-nails having induced the people in one canoe to come along-side, the rest immediately followed; and a friendly trade was soon set on foot, breadfruit and fish being purchased with nails. Next morning, a much greater number of natives appeared, bringing breadfruit, plantains, and one pig; which they sold for nails, and other articles. They soon began, however, to cheat and pilfer; and a shot fired over the head of one of the principal offenders, had but little effect in restraining them. The Captain, on getting into a boat to look out for a good mooring place, cautioned his officers to be on their guard; and he had scarcely given the caution, when an iron stanchion was stolen by some natives, who were making off with it in their canoe. Upon this he gave orders to fire over the canoe ; but unfortunately his orders were not distinctly heard, owing to the noise made by the natives, and the unhappy thief was shot. On reaching his canoe, from whence the stanchion was thrown overboard, the Captain found along with the wretched victim, a youth who proved to be his son, who was greatly dejected, and an aged man, who sat bailing the blood and water out of the canoe, in a kind of hysteric laugh. On perceiving ill 176 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. w this melancholy accident, all the natives fled; but the Captain prevailed on some of them to come alongside his boat, and allayed their fears by a few presents. A suitable mooring place being found, the ship was warped into it by means of a kedge anchor; and while this was doing, two natives in a canoe, notwithstanding the alarming event that had just happened, attempted to steal the buoy; and were not driven from their purpose till a shot was fired over them, happily the last shot which there was occasion to fire at any of them. A man soon after came and presented a pig, for which he received a hatchet; and a brisk trade for refreshments was then re-established. The Captain, during his stay, went several times on shore, where the islanders received him very courteously. They were sensible that he was their friend, but were afraid of his people: and hence, when he sent a party on shore, and remained on board, they fled in terror; but when he went himself, they crowded around him. The trade for pigs, and other refreshments, was carried on some days with advantage; but on monday the 11th, the market was found to be ruined, through the imprudence of some young gentlemen, who had given the natives, in barter, some articles which they valued far more than nails. One of them had given for a pig a very large quantity of red feathers, obtained at Tongataboo; and, after getting so rich a prize for a single pig, they would part with no more, on any reasonable terms. This induced the Captain immediately to quit the Marquesas, knowing that the Society Islands could furnish a better supply. He therefore sailed in the afternoon from TI00KEA. 177 the place of anchorage, which he named Resolution Bay. He did not, however, leave these islands, till he had ascertained their exact position, hitherto erroneously laid down. He made observations also, as usual, on.the inhabitants, whom he describes as the finest race of men in the Pacific. Their manners, dress, weapons, and language were akin to those of Otaheite and the Society Isles; and Oedidee was able to converse with them tolerably well. Taking his departure from the Marquesas on the 12th, our navigator, having a fine easterly wind, steered to the west and south, till on the 17th he fell in with an island, consisting of a cluster of low islets connected by a coral reef; which proved to be Tiookea, discovered by Commodore Byron. Lieut. Cooper, and Mr. Forster were sent on shore with two boats; but they found the natives shy and unfriendly. They procured, however, five dogs, and two dozen cocoa-nuts. The natives, like the Marquesans and Tahitians, were tattooed; and most of the men were marked with the figure of a fish, an appropriate emblem of their profession. Next day, a similar cluster of islets appeared, being another discovery of Byron; who named this island and Tiookea George's Islands; but placed their longitude about 4° too far west; a mistake which Capt. Cook now corrected. Other four islands, or circles of islets, with a lagoon in the middle, were met with on the 19th; and this group the Captain named Palliser's Isles, in honour of his friend and patron. The inhabitants were like those of Tiookea. Referring to these discoveries, Captain Cook observes, that this part of the ocean is so thickly strewed with such low isles, that a navigator cannot proceed with too much caution. 13 COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. Quitting these islands on the 20th, the Resolution proceeded towards Otaheite, which with the neighbouring islands presented to our mariners the most fascinating attractions, and could not be approached but with feelings of delight. The high land of Otaheite was descried on thursday, April 21st; and next morning the Resolution anchored in Matavai Bay. An observatory and tents were put up at Point Venus, for the use of Mr. Wales and others; but happily there was no occasion to erect a temporary hospital, for there were no sick on board. If our navigators rejoiced in visiting this favourite island, the Tahitians were no less delighted with their return. Fruit, fish, and hogs were sent on board in abundance; and King Otoo had a principal share in furnishing this welcome supply. On the 24th, he and his retinue dined on board, and were dismissed with suitable presents, highly gratified with the Captain's hospitality. Fortunately he had reserved a stock of red parrot feathers, procured at Tongataboo, such as had been inconsiderately squandered away at the Marquesas; and here also these were so highly prized, that when it was known they were to be obtained on board, the principal people of both sexes eagerly sought to procure them, by bringing hogs, fruit, and whatever else the island afforded. The Captain was agreeably surprised to find the state of the country wonderfully improved since his last visit. Great numbers of commodious houses, and large canoes, had been built, or were now building, at Matavai and Oparree; and hogs that were so scarce before, were now seen in abundance. Instead, therefore, of speedily removing to one of OTAHEITE.—LARGE FLEET OF CANOES. 179 the Society Islands, as at first proposed, he resolved to prolong his stay here, to repair the ship and stores, as well as to procure refreshments. On tuesday, the 26th, the Captain, and some of the officers and gentlemen, went down to Oparree to visit the King; and were astonished to find an immense fleet assembled there, consisting of 330 double canoes; of which number, 160 were war canoes, well equipped, manned, and armed; and gaily decorated with flags and streamers; making a grand and noble appearance, such as our mariners little expected to see in the Pacific. The chiefs, and all those on the fighting stages, were dressed in their war habits; having turbans, helmets, breastplates, and quantities of cloth. Their arms were clubs, spears, and stones. The gentlemen, on landing, were received with much kindness, by Towha, admiral of the fleet, and Tee, uncle to King Otoo. These two chiefs, and their friends, appeared to form two parties; one of which strove to conduct Capt. Cook to the King, while the other sought to detain him with the admiral. The Captain finding himself in danger of being pulled in pieces between them, while his comrades were jostled about in the crowd ; hearing also that the King was gone from the place, and afraid that matters did not stand well between him and the commander of this vast fleet, the assembling of which appeared a mystery,—he refused Towha's invitation to go on board his vessel, and was glad to get into the boat again with his party, and return to Matavai. He learned soon after, that this grand fleet was part of an armament collected for the purpose of reducing Eimeo, which had recently revolted from the dominion of Otoo; and COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. he regretted his having missed so fine an opportunity of inspecting the fleet, and seeing the naval tactics, of this interesting people. It turned out, that Otoo did not make his appearance at Oparree, because some of his people had stolen a quantity of the Captain's clothes that were washing on shore, and the King dreaded the consequences. Towha imagined, that the Captain was offended with him on the same account, and that this was the cause of his refusing to go on board the war canoe. These things were explained, when the Captain paid another visit to Oparree in the afternoon, attended by Oedidee, who was unfortunately absent in the morning. By that time the fleet had sailed to the westward, from whence they had come. Next morning, Towha sent two of his servants, with two large hogs and some fruit, as a present to the Captain; giving them orders to take nothing in return. The Captain soon after took another trip to Oparree in his boat; and brought Otoo and Towha to dine on board, with Tarevatoo the King's brother, and Tee his uncle. The admiral, on seeing the Resolution for the first time, was struck with wonder at her size and construction, and took great interest in examining every part of the vessel. While he was conducted over it, Otoo was the principal showman; having now become well acquainted with the use of every part. Towha, before retiring, put another hog on board privately, taking nothing in return. The king seemed a little jealous of this chief, while he treated him with much respect. Both solicited the Captain's aid against Tiarabu, with which they were now at peace; but their application receiving no countenance, was not renewed. OTAHEITE.—THIEF PUNISHED. 181 On the 28th, Waheatua, King of Tiarabu, sent a present of a hog, desiring a few red feathers in return; and these, with some other things, were accordingly sent him. Next day, Otoo, Towha, and several other grandees, came on board with valuable presents of provisions and curiosities; and at this time Towha, as well as the rest, accepted liberal returns. On this day, a remarkable occurrence took place. One of the natives, having been caught in the act of stealing a water-cask the night before, was now in irons on board, where the visitors saw him. His crime was stated to them; yet the King begged that he might be set at liberty. The Captain replied, that he punished his own people when they stole from the Tahitians, and was determined that this man should not escape; and as he knew that Otoo would not punish him, he was resolved to do it himself. The man was accordingly taken ashore, and tied up to a post, attended by the guard under arms. Otoo, with his sister and others, now begged hard for the culprit's release, while Towha remained silent. The Captain expostulated with Otoo, on the bad conduct of this man, and others of his subjects, in stealing from the British, who had been their good friends, and took nothing from them without paying for it; he then plainly told the King, that this man must be made an example, to deter others from similar crimes, and thus prevent the loss of life; because, if such practices continued, the thieves would very likely be shot dead. With these arguments Otoo appeared so far satisfied, that he now only requested that the culprit might not be killed. Upon this, the Captain, in the presence of a great crowd, which he commanded 182 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. to be kept at a proper distance, ordered the fellow two dozen lashes; which he bore with great firmness, and was then set at liberty. The King said nothing more ; but Towha addressed the people in a speech of nearly half an hour, delivered with much energy, and gracefulness of action: and in this harangue he ably seconded the views of Capt. Cook, condemning theft, and recommending honesty. To strengthen the impression made on the multitude, the marines were ordered to go through their exercise, loading and firing in vollies with ball; and as they were very quick in their manoeuvres, it is easier to conceive than describe the amazement and awe produced by this exhibition. —The whole transaction illustrates that firmness of purpose, for which our navigator was distinguished. It required no small vigour and decision, thus to inflict punishment on the subject of an independent prince, against his will, and in presence of a large concourse of his people. In the evening, Mr. Forster and the other naturalists returned from the mountains, where they had spent the preceding night. They had found several new plants, and enjoyed a most extensive view from the lofty peaks which they climbed, having seen the island Huaheine, which lies 40 leagues to the westward. Several other excursions of this kind were made during the ship's stay. Our navigator was happy to find, that the goats left here, by Captain Furneaux, had increased, and were likely to stock the island. The sheep, however, hakl all died but one. A stock of cats was furnished, both to Otaheite, and to the Society Islands. On the 30th, Capt. Cook had an opportunity of ■■* MUSKET STOLEN, AND RECOVERED. 183 seeing ten war canoes go through their paddling exercise; which was done with great expedition, although the vessels seemed to be but thinly manned with rowers. The warriors on the fighting stages encouraged the rowers to exert themselves; while some youths sitting aloft in the curved stet&, with white wands in their hands, were keeping a look out, and giving directions. Tarevatoo, who was present, desired that Mr. Hodges might be sent for, having observed that he made drawings of every thing curious. On the first two days of May, large supplies of provisions were received; and these were the more welcome, as it was found, on examining the state of the biscuit, that much of it was rotten and useless, and the rest required to be again aired and cleaned. The friendly intercourse between the British and the Tahitians, which had continued and increased since the punishment of the thief, was interrupted by another theft, committed in the night between the 7th and 8th of May; when one of the sentinels on shore, having slept or quitted his post, his musket was carried off by one of the natives. This incident, as usual, created a general alarm, and put a stop to all trade in provisions. The Captain, to procure redress, sought an interview with Otoo; but the latter had disappeared. He then detained five canons, that the owners might feel interested in the recovery of the musket; but through the representations of Tee and Oedidee, whose good faith, in reference to this matter, was suspected, the canoes, were given up. Yet the musket, and some other stolen articles, were brought to: the tents in the dusk of the evening, by three men. COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. who had pursued the thief, and taken them from him. They received a reward; and not a few, desiring to share with them, pretended to have taken part in recovering the stolen property. One man, named Nuno, claimed the honour of having' alone killed the thief; and assuming a fierce countenance, laid about him with his club, to shew how he had despatched him; although it was well known, that Nuno had all the while been at home in his own house! On the 9th, the Captain paid a visit to Otoo at Oparree. The King inquired why he fired at the canoes; and the Captain, rather artfully, replied, that they belonged to Maritata, a Tiarabu man, one of whose people was said to have stolen the musket. Matters were soon made up by a few presents; but, owing to some dissatisfaction on the part of old Whappai, or Happi, the King's father, the provision market was not opened until tuesday, the 10th. On that day, Otoo was entertained by seeing the great guns fired from the ship, but 4fefex more enjoyment in an exhibition of fire-works in the evening. Liberal supplies of fruit were sent on board next day, part of which came from Towha, now ill at Atahooroo. Oedidee was sent with his servants, to visit him with a present. On the 12th, the celebrated Oberea came with a present of hogs and fruit; and afterwards Otoo, with a great retinue, and a large quantity of provisions. The Captain treated them liberally, and entertained them at night with fire-works. The ship being now ready for sea, it was necessary for Oedidee to determine, whether he would proceed on the voyage with his English friends, or OTAHEITE. 185 remain' at home. He was a great favourite on board, and many advised him to go to England, where he would become immensely rich, according to his ideas of riches. But the Captain told him, that if he went to England, he must make up his mind to abide there, in which case he might look upon him as a father. The youth threw his arms around him, and wept much; but stated, that many of his friends wished him to remain at the islands. He was directed to consult with them, and having done so, he decided on remaining at home: yet Mr. Forster prevailed on him to go as far as Ulietea. Many youths at this time offered to go in the ship, to live and die in Pretanee (their name for Britain); and some gentlemen on board were desirous of supplying themselves with Tahitian servants; but the Captain, knowing that they would be of little service on board, having no prospect of restoring them to their country, and feeling the responsibility of taking persons from their native place, whom he might afterwards find it impossible to take care of, stedfastly refused all such applications. Otoo begged him to take some of his people to Tongataboo, to collect red feathers for him, willing to run the risk of their returning, or not; but to this proposal, also, he would not consent. On Saturday, the 14th, when the Resolution was about to sail, several chiefs, and their friends, came on board to take leave; among whom was Towha, who being ill with swollen feet and legs, had come hither with great difficulty, from Atahooroo, and was hoisted into the ship. Parting presents were now interchanged; and among those given to Towha, he set most value on an English pendant, the use of which was explained to him. When 186 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. I J these friends had been dismissed, a fleet of canoes was perceived coming round the point of Oparree; upon which, Capt. Cook, and some of the officers and gentlemen, hastened to Oparree to take a view of it; and were gratified with observing the equipment and manoeuvres of the vessels, particularly their clever mode of landing. At the Captain's request, Otoo made some of the troops go through their exercise on shore; and in this exhibition, the combatants shewed much dexterity in avoiding or parrying off the blows of their antagonists. The fleet of war canoes, forty in number, having departed, Otoo shewed his visitors one of his dockyards, where two large pahies, or canoes, each 108 feet long, intended to make one double canoe, were now building. The king begged and received for this vessel a grappling and rope; the Captain added also an English jack and pendant, and at his request the canoe was named Britannia. Otoo and Tee accompanied his visitors on board the Resolution, to dinner; after which he took an affectionate leave of them. He remained alongside in his canoe till the ship was under sail, when he put off, and was saluted with three guns. While the Resolution was leaving Matavai Bay, an Irishman, one of the gunner's mates, who had joined the Endeavour at Batavia, slipped overboard, to be taken up by a canoe, then waiting for him, accordipg to a preconcerted plan, that he might settle on the island : but before he got clear of the ship, a boat was hoisted out, and took him up. As he had no near relations, the Captain was disposed to excuse him for wishing to remain in this delightful place; and might have granted his desiro> had he applied at a proper time. HUAHEINE. 187 In closing that part of his journal which relates to the visit now paid to Otaheite, his favourite island, the Captain makes various remarks on its form of government, on the different ranks or orders of society here, and on the amount of the population. Assuming, that each of the 43 districts in the island, might furnish, on an average, as many war canoes as Tettaha, which raised and equipped 40, and allowing 40 men as the crew of each canoe; he thus calculates the number of able men at 68,000; and estimates the whole population at 204,000. These assumptions, however, are erroneous; and the calculations founded on them far exceed the reality. When Capt. Wilson landed with the Missionaries in 1797, he estimated the population at only 16,000; and when the Missionaries themselves, a few years after, made a more correct census, they found the number to be only about 8,000. Now, although it is certain that, owing to the introduction of European diseases, the use of fire-arms and of ardent spirits, combined with destructive wars, and the dreadful prevalence of infanticide, the population had rapidly declined after the discovery of the island,—it .is not credible, that in* less than thirty years the population should be reduced to only a twentieth part of what it was in the time of Cook, or not so much. It is gratifying to know, that since the Tahitians embraced Christianity, which has checked the ravages of war and crime, their numbers are steely increasing. On the 15th of May, the Resolution anchored in Fare harbour, in Huaheine; where the good old King Oree gave our navigator a welcome reception. Much friendly trade, with interchange of presents 188 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. and entertainments, took place on the subsequent days; but some things occurred, as at the last visit, to interrupt this agreeable intercourse. On the 16th, when Mr. Forster and his party were botanizing in the country, his servant was beset by five or six fellows, who took a hatchet from him, and would have stripped him of every thing, had not one of the party opportunely come to his assistance. Two days after, some of the petty officers having gone into the country for their amusement, with two muskets, took two natives to be their guides, and to carry their bags, containing nails, hatchets, &c. to trade with; the treacherous guides, watching their opportunity, when one musket had just been fired off, and the other had repeatedly missed fire, ran off with the bags and all their contents. On the 20th, three officers set out on a shooting excursion, rather against the Captain's inclination; and having offended some of the natives, the latter seized their guns, and a scuffle ensued; but some chiefs interfering, the officers were rescued, and their property restored. On receiving intelligence of their being robbed, Capt. Cook landed with a boat's crew, and took possession of a large house, with all its effects, and two chiefs that were in it; but when the officers returned safe, he quitted all, and went on board. As it appeared that a gang of fellows had associated, to rob all the British who came in their way, Oree, who had already given Capt. Cook permission to shoot the robbers, sent a message by Oedidee, on the 21st, requesting the Captain to land with 22 men, and go with him to chastise these marauders ; giving the bearer 22 pieces of leaves, that he might not forget the number. After visiting the 1 HUAHEINE. 189 King in person, to converse with him on the object of the expedition, the Captain resolving to comply with his request, landed with 48 men, including officers and scientific gentlemen; and the chief having joined them with a few people, they marched in good order, in search of the banditti. As they proceeded, the chiefs party increased like a snowball; when Oedidee began to be alarmed, and intimated, that some of the company were the very robbers they were going against; and that the natives were designing to lead the British into some defile, where they might attack them with advantage. Hence, when the party, after marching several miles, were about to cross a deep valley, with steep rocks on each side, the Captain prudently declined going any further, especially as it was said that the robbers had fled to the mountains. The appearance of some armed parties coming down from the hills, who hid their arms in the bushes, when they saw themselves observed, confirmed the suspicions thrown out by Oedidee. The good King Oree was considered incapable of taking part in such base treachery; but his people, who took advantage of his years and his feebleness, and often acted contrary to his wishes, might have formed such a wicked plot without his knowledge. When the party arrived at the landing-place, several vollies were fired in quick succession, by the Captain's orders, to impress the natives more forcibly with the power of their fire arms. The great guns had been fired on a former day, at Oree's request, to gratify his curiosity. Several peace- offerings of hogs and fruit, were sent as the result of this expedition. Abundant supplies of fruits were procured at this island; but hogs were rather 190 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. scarce. Red feathers were in less request than at Otaheite; and it was necessary to set the smiths to work, to make nails and iron tools, to trade with; this kind of stock being nearly exhausted. During their stay here, our people were sometimes entertained by the natives with dramatic representations. In one instance, the piece represented a young girl running away with the British from Otaheite. The incidents were founded on fact; a young woman having taken a passage with them to Ulietea. She was present at the exhibition of her own adventures; in which, among other things, her unfavourable reception by her friends on returning home, was set forth. The girl could not refrain from tears> and wanted to get away before the piece was concluded. It seemed meant as a rebuke to her, and a hint to their own females to beware of following her example. On this head, the gentlemen, as well as the girl, stood in need of a rebuke ; for, according to the captain's own account, an infamous traffic in sin had been carried on by our people at Otaheite. A shirt was the usual price of prostitution : the girls went on board in rags in the evening, to return home clothed in "I i the morning; and to such an extent was this dis*- graceful trade carried on, that several persons on board were not only stripped of all their shirts^ but gave the girls shirts of Tahitian cloth, when their own were all gone. Such proceedings might well disgust even the heathen; and it seems surprising that our navigator, who in some things was a strict disciplinarian, should tolerate practices so glaringly criminal. On monday, May 23rd, the Resoli|tion sailed from Huaheine. Oree was the last native to leave ULIETEA. 191 the ship; and when the Captain told him at parting, that he should see him no more, the affectionate old chief wept, and said, "Let your sons come; we will treat them well." Next day, the Resolution entered a harbour in the south end of Ulietea; and while the ship was warping in and mooring, which owing to adverse winds and the straitness of the entrance occupied some time, the chief Oreo, with several others, came on board to welcome their British visitors. When the Captain and his friends went on shore the day following, they were greeted with the most cordial salutations; for, on entering the chief's house, they were met by four or five old women, weeping bitterly, and cutting their heads with shark's teeth, till the blood ran down plentifully on their faces and shoulders. % What was still worse," says the Captain in his narrative, "we were obliged to submit to the embraces of these old hags, and by that means we were all besmeared with blood. This ceremony (for it was merely such) being over, they went out, washed themselves, and immediately after appeared as cheerful as any of the company." After this affectionate reception at the house of the chief, they were welcomed by all the inhabitants of the place; while multitudes crowded to see them from all parts of the island, and took up their quarters in the neighbourhood, where they remained feasting for several days. The facts now stated, with others of the like kind, illustrate the uncertainty of computing the population of any of these islands, from the numbers seen at any one point. Exempted from agricultural labours, and from the toil and confinement of any regular trade or business, these islanders 192 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. could quickly assemble in crowds, at any spot, to which curiosity, pleasure, or interest might draw them; and could remain there, with little inconvenience, for days or weeks. The fertility and natural riches of their soil afforded them seasons of leisure, unknown in less fruitful countries. "Why should they toil to make the earth bring forth, When without toil she gave them all they wanted? The bread-fruit ripen'd, while they lay beneath Its shadow, in luxurious indolence; The cocoa fill'd its nuts with milk and kernels, While they were sauntering on the shores and mountains; And while they slumber'd from their heavy meals, In dead forgetfulness of life itself, The fish were spawning in unsounded depths, The birds were breeding in adjacent trees, The game was fattening in delicious pastures, Unpl anted roots were thriving under ground, To spread the tables of their future banquets ! The Resolution continued here ten days, during which, several excursions were made into the country, particularly by Mr. Forster and the naturalists ; many friendly visits passed between the captain and Oreo, and entertainments were mutually given. Native plays were performed daily, in several of which allusions were made to the British visitors. There were various theatres, and sets of performers. The only actress at Oreo's theatre was his daughter, a pretty brown girl, at whose shrine, on these occasions, many offerings were made by her numerous votaries. In one performance, acted by a set of brawny fellows, the closing scene was the representation of a woman in labour, bringing forth a son; and as the person representing the child had his nose pressed, as soon as he was taken hold of, it was inferred, that this people, like many of the African tribes, flatten the ^V_ ULIETEA. 193 ses of their children at their birth; which ao- unts for the fact, that these islanders, like the fcroes, have generally flat noses. Mr. Forster, in one of his excursions, saw a irai where dogs were buried, probably those that re offered in sacrifice to their gods. In another ice, four wooden images, each two feet long, re seen in the corner of a house, standing on a 3lf. The friendly intercourse with the people of ietea was only once, and for a very short time, aerrupted by a theft, when several articles were t len from the boats. By the assistance of Oreo, of them were recovered, except the iron tiller of J pinnace; and for the loss of that, a trespass < iring of two good hogs was received. )n monday, May 30th, a visit was paid to the < ite that belonged to Oedidee, now in the pos- { don of his brother, who received a handsome ] sent, and gave the Captain two hogs. One of t se was killed and dressed for dinner in the i ive way, and afforded an- excellent repast. < lidee had promised his friends a large supply; I was found to have lost his authority over his f 3mal inheritance. Indeed, in this his native ii ad, he was treated with neglect; whereas, in C heite he was so much respected, that he might a ost have commanded any thing he desired. Vhile the Captain was preparing for his de- p ure, much fruit was brought on board by the n ves, and a brisk trade for hogs, as well as fi L was carried on. Among the visitors was a y ag man who measured 6 feet 4i inches, while h sister measured 5 feet 10i inches. On the |9«of June, a man pretended to bring news, that 14 ill 1 If Pi IN 1 I III 194 COOKS.SECOND VOYAGE. two ships had arrived at Huaheine, one commanded by Mr. Banks, and the other by Capt. Furneaux, whose persons were correctly described; but it was soon found, that the whole account was a fabrication. In the evening of that day, the natives were entertained with a display of fire-works. Saturday, the 4th, being the day appointed for sailing, the chiefs, and many others,, came on board to take their last farewell. Oo-oo-rou, the heredi*- tary King of the island, was of the number; as well as Oreo, who was a kind of viceroy for Opoony the chief sovereign. Boba, the King, or viceroy, of Otaha, also accompanied them. Many presents were distributed among them. Oreo, and his wife and daughter, took a most affectionate leave of the Captain, with many tears. When the latter would not promise to return, the chief begged to know the name of his marai (burial place); and when he replied f* Stepney," he was desired to repeat the name till the natives could pronounce it; and then, Stepney marai no Toote—" Stepney is the marai of Cook," was echoed through a hundred mouths at once. This inquiry on the part of Oreo was expressive of the warmest friendship; he wished to know where the body of his friend would be laid, that he and his family might do honour to his remains. Mr. Forster, as Capt. Cook remarks, gave a more proper answer to the same question, put to him by a friend on shore, viz. " That no man who used the sea, could say where he should be buried;" a statement too sadly verified in the case of our great navigator. But the most affecting parting was that with Oedidee, who was so warmly attached to Captain Cook and his people, that, if but a slight hope of PARTING WITH OEDIDEE. 195 his returning home had been given him, he would have rejoiced to accompany them to Britain. No words could express the anguish in this young man's breast, when he went away. He looked up at the ship, burst into tears, and then sunk down into the canoe. Before he went out of the ship, he requested the Captain to tattoo a word for him, that is, to write him a certificate, to shew to any commanders of vessels that might touch at the island; a request that was readily granted. He was a youth of good parts; of a docile, gentle, and humane disposition ; and, though he possessed little knowledge of the religion, government, manners, and history, of his countrymen, he would, in every respect, have been a better specimen of the nation than Omai. He did not leave the ship, till it was almost out of the harbour; having staid to fire some guns; for this being His Majesty's birthday, the salute was fired at going away. Our navigator had thoughts of visiting Tupia's famous Bolabola; but being now amply supplied with refreshments, he laid aside this design, and, to use his own words, " directed his course to the west; taking his final leave of these happy isles, on which benevolent Nature has spread her luxuriant sweets with a lavish hand;" and where " the natives, copying the bounty of Nature, are equally liberal; contributing plentifully and cheerfully to the wants of navigators." f CHAPTER XIV. Several small Islands met with. Landing on Savage Island; ferocity of the natives. Landing at Anamocka; and incidents there* Departure from the Friendly Islands, and arrival at the New Hebrides. Landing at Mallicollo, and intercourse with the inhabitants. Their honesty. Poisonous fish. Attempt to land at Erromango: hostile behaviour of the natives. Arrival at Tanna, and transactions there. Friendly conduct of Paowang, &c. Hostility of others: peace established. Supplies obtained, and ship repaired. The Volcano : hot springs. Dwellings, and plantations of the natives. Geogy, the Ring. Manners &c. of the people. A man killed by a sentry. Departure from Tanna, and survey of other islands,—Erronan—Annatom—Tierra del Espiritu Santo, discovered by Quiros. Bougainville's Passage. Bay of St. Philip and St. Jago. Notices respecting the inhabitants. Nautical observations. Captain Cook having taken his departure from Ulietea on the 5th of June, fell in next day with Howe Island, discovered by Wallis; supposed to be the uninhabited island which the people of Ulietea call Mopeha. Another reef island, consisting of numerous islets inclosing a lake, or lagoon, was met with on the 16th. This being a new discovery, was named Palmerston Island. On the 20th, another island was discovered; and some natives being seen on the beach, the Captain put off with a party in two boats, and landed on the shore, *which was over-run with woods, bushes, plants, and stones. As they began to Center the woods, some of the islanders came upon them suddenly; ^"ggjgil^ SAVAGE ISLAND. 197 and though peaceful signs were made to them, they answered with menaces, and threw a stone, which struck Mr. Sparrman on the arm. Upon this, two muskets were fired; and they all retired into the woods. The party reimbarked, and after ranging along the coast for some miles, landed a second time, at a place where four canoes were lying. Here the natives rushed down upon them, through an opening in the woods, and in spite of all attempts to conciliate them, they came on with the ferocity of wild boars, and threw their darts. Two or three muskets, discharged in the air, did not deter them from further hostilities; and one of their spears having passed close over the Captain's shoulder, he would have shot the assailant, had not his piece missed fire. He was glad that it did, as the natives were presently dispersed by the firing of others. It was remarkable, that when he tried his musket in the air immediately after, it went off as well as a piece could do. As no friendly intercourse with the natives could be obtained, our navigator quitted the place, to which he gave the appropriate name of Savage Island. The inhabitants, and their canoes, were like those of the Friendly Islands. Their coast is hazardous for invaders, being lined with coral rocks, thickly clothed with trees and bushes. In noticing the height of some of these rocks, in which several curious caverns had been hollowed out by the sea, the Captain proposes the inquiry, how these rocks, if produced by marine insects, came to be raised so much above the level of the sea; and judiciously hints at volcanic agency, as the most probable cause of their elevation. After passing several small islands, and danger- n/ ffi#f 1 j lit! 198 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. ous rocks, the Resolution arrived safely at Anamocka, one of the Friendly Islands, on the 26th of June. In approaching the island, a friendly bailer of nails for cocoa-nuts and shaddocks, was carried on with the natives of some small isles, which the vessel passed; and before she came to an anchor, the natives came off from all parts, bringing yams and shaddocks, for which they received nails, beads, and old rags. A man attempted to steal the lead and line, and cut the line wi£h a stone; but a discharge of small shot made him return it. Early on monday morning, the 27th, the Captain and Mr. Gilbert landed in a cove, where water, rather brackish, was obtained from a pond, supposed to be the same at which Tasman was supplied. The natives were very courteous; and for a few nails and beads, assisted in rolling the casks to and from the pond. A friendly trade and intercourse being established, refreshments were procured in plenty; and some parties went into the country, to shoot or to botanize. When they returned, the Surgeon being left behind his party, got a canoe to bring him on board ; but just as he was stepping into it, a fellow snatched his gun, and ran off with it. The Captain having forborne to take prompt measures for its recovery, the natives next morning were emboldened to run off with Lieut. Clerke's gun, from the watering place, and part of the cooper's tools. Upon this, the Captain, who landed soon after, resolved to seek redress without delay. Signal guns were fired from the ship, to bring back Mr. Forster and his party from the country; and the marines were ordered to go on shore armed. Before their arrival, Mr. Clerke's gun was restored by the natives, -— ANAM0CKA. 199 whom the Captain had apprized of his resolution. To ensure the restoration of the other, two large double canoes were seized; and one fellow making resistance, was wounded with small shot, and sent off limping. Not long after, the other gun was brought, and laid at the Captain's feet; upon which he ordered the canoes to be forthwith restored. The cooper's adze, after some delay, was also brought' back. It was reported, that the wounded man had died; but fortunately the report proved to be incorrect. The Surgeon bled him, and dressed his wounds; and pronounced him in a fair way of recovery. The Captain made him a present also, to solace him in his affliction; but it was taken by his master, or the owner of the canoe. While the usual trade was going on at the ship, it was observed, that a person who seemed to be of some consequence, collected a kind of tribute from those who sold fruit and roots, taking a portion out of each canoe; for which cause, the sailors named him the Custom-house Officer. The seamen were as eager as ever in purchasing curiosities, and as pieces of cloth were usually given in exchange, most of them, as thie Captain remarks, were "stripped of the few cloihes the ladies of Otaheite had left them." The disgraceful traffic with females? alluded to in this remark, was not, however, permitted here; for a loathsome disease, the effect of licentiousness, being now on board, the Captain, to prevent its being communicated to the natives, strictly prohibited aH such in^course, and gave positive orders that no female should enter the ship. An elderly female, who had been useful in eoncfe'etiiag the negociation with the islanders, offered the Captain 200 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. fpj; a young girl, with a view to get presents; and felt much disappointed, when he would not accept her, nor allow her to go on board. On the 30th, our navigator quitted Anamocka, and the small isles beside it, directing his course for two very lofty islands, Amattafoa, and Oghao. A column of smoke, arising from the former, seemed to indicate the presence of a volcano; but when the Resolution passed through a channel between the two islands, in the afternoon, their summits could not be seen, being enveloped in clouds. In this passage, the ship was followed by several canoes; and, it was noticed, that some of them were so constructed, that either end might be the stem, or the stern, according to circumstances. They changed tacks, by merely shifting the sail. The Captain had intended to touch at Tongataboo ; but, the wind not favouring his purpose, he sailed to the westward, without landing at that island, or any other of this group, which he now designated the Friendly Islands. On friday, July 1st, a small island was discovered, surrounded by a reef, near which was seen a quantity of turtle, from which the place was called Turtle Isle. No channel was found to admit the ship through the reef; but the Master, who was employed in taking soundings, went through with a boat, and landed at a place where about twenty natives were seen, armed with clubs and spears* As soon as he touched the shore, they all retired into the woods: he left them a knife, with some medals and nails, and returned on board. About five or six miles to the S.W. of Turtle Isle, a number of coral rocks were met with, which might be described as one of the coral reef isles, just emerging NEW HEBRIDES. 201 to the surface : the chain of rocks being almost all covered by the flood tide, while in the middle space, corresponding with the lagoon, there was deep water. Having made sail hence to the west, our navigator, on Saturday, the 16th, came in sight of high land, which was rightly judged to be part of the country discovered by Quiros in 1606, and, visited in 1768 by Bougainville, who found it to be a cluster of islands, which he named the Great Cy- clades. On the 18th, the Resolution passed the north end of Aurora Island, near the Peak of the Etoile, the most northerly of this group; and then stretched over for the Isle of Lepers, on which Bougainville landed. Here people were seen on the shore, and many beautiful cascades of water pouring down the neighbouring hills. Some natives came off in canoes; but though friendly signs were made to them, instead of drawing near, they returned to the shore, where their countrymen were seen, in numerous groups, armed with bows and arrows. Between this isle and Aurora, which also appeared richly supplied with wood and water, the Resolution continued plying for two days, the wind impeding her progress southward. On the 20th, our navigator reached Whitsuntide Island; and having passed this, discovered another island, called Ambrym; and after that, a much larger island, named Mallicollo; where the Resolution anchored, in the evening of the 21st, in a creek which he named Port Sandwich. The natives soon came off in canoes; and although shy at first, were induced to exchange for pieces of cloth a few of their arrows, some of which, pointed with bone and dipped in a green gummy substance, appeared to 202 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. 11 be poisoned. Two men ventured on board, and were dismissed with presents. Next morning, great numbers came off, some in canoes, and others swimming; and more of them came on board than the Captain wished to admit at a time. He took four of them into the cabin, and gave them presents, with which they were much pleased. In the mean time, a fellow in a canoe, being refused admittance into a boat that was alongside, bent his bow to shoot at the boat-keeper. Some of his countrymen prevented him, particularly one of the above four, who leaped for that purpose out of the cabin window: but the man having shaken him off, again directed his arrow toward the boat-keeper, when the Captain, who had come on deck, calling to him, he turned round to shoot at the Captain himself. The latter fired at him with small shot, which staggered him for a moment; but as he still remained in a hostile attitude, a second s£i>t was required to make him drop his bow, and paddle off with his frightened comrades. Atthis>4ime, some began to shoot arrows on the other side, and a musket discharged in the air having little effect on them, a four pound shot was fired over their heads, which sent them off in the utmost confusion, several of them leaving their canoes behind. The beating of drums, as if summoning the country to arms, was soon after heard on shore: but, in a short time, the islanders recovered from their panic; some came off to pick up their canoes, and finding that they were not molested, some even ventured to come alongside the ship. After a short interval, the captain and some of his men, putting off in two boats, landed in the MALLIC0LL0. face of four or five hundred people, who were assembled on the shore; and though they were all armed with bows and arrows, clubs and spears, they made no opposition. For the Captain, who had recently impressed them with a sense of his power, now approached them with signals of peace. He advanced alone, with nothing but a green branch in his hand ; and one of the cMefs, laying aside his bow and arrows, met him in the water, bearing the same emblem; and their branches being exchanged, he took the Captain by the hand, and led him up to the crowd, among whom he proceeded to distribute presents, while the marines landed and were drawn up on the beach. Signs being made, that wood was wanted for the ship, the natives gave permission to cut downrtrees; which was done accordingly. But no trade for provisions could be established; not only because the language of the natives was unintelligible to our people, differing from any they had yet heard; but because they set no value on nails and iron tools, and at the same time shewed great jealousy of their visitors, being very unwilling that they should go further than the beach, and greatly desiring that they should return on board. Only one hog was received; and it seemed to be brought as a peace-offering, The party returned on board about noon, with the wood they had cut; and the natives also retired in various directions. In the afternoon, the Caption and Mr. Forster landed near some of their plantations and houses; of which they took a view. Their houses, whidh: were just within the skirts of the woods, were similar to those of the Friendly Isles, low, and covered with palm thatch. Fowls and pigs weffe seen near 204 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. t Ijij Wi ■ their dwellings; and they had bread-fruit, cocoa- nuts, plantains, and yams. As they had no dogs, the Captain left them a pair to breed. The names of several islands in sight, were obtained from these people, as well as the designation of their own island. The harbour was remarkably safe; but no stream of fresh water was observed. In returning on board in the evening, the Captain saw some of the natives commencing a dance, and heard the sound of a drum, and other music; but when he approached with the boat, to take a nearer view, all was silent. Next morning, when the natives saw the Resolution under sail, they came off in canoes, and bartered more freely than before. Their honesty inftrading deserves to be noticed, as it exhibited a jtrifeing contrast to the roguery of other S. Sea islanders. Some who had received goods, but had not delivered the price, used their utmost efforts to get up with the ship, to put the articles on board. One man, in particular, followed the vessel a great way; and having come up with it during a calm, he would not part with the article he had brought, to any-one but the purchaser; and when the latter, who had forgotten the bargain, offered him something in return, he refused it, and shewed him what he had given for it already. These islanders set most value on pieces of cloth, and marbled paper. Like the other inhabitants of this group, the men wear no clothes, but a belt, and a small piece of cloth or leaf for a wrapper. The females, who seldom came near, wore a kind of petticoat. Both had bracelets, ear-rings, and an ornament, if it might be so called, piercing the bridge of the nose: but they a,re described as an ugly race, of a ERR0MANG0. 205 very dark colour, and having faces like monkeys. The letter R abounds in their language. They express their admiration by hissing like a goose. Leaving Port Sandwich on the 23rd, the Resolution proceeding in a S.E. course, passed the islands of Ambrym, Paoom, and Apee. A group of small isles lying off the S. E. point of Apee, the Captain named Shepherd's Isles, in honour of his friend Dr. Shepherd, Plumian Professor of Astronomy at Cambridge. Among these isles, the ship was for some time becalmed, on the 24th; and was in danger of being driven on shore by currents. At this time, most of the officers were seized with violent pains in the head and bones, and were otherwise disordered, in consequence of having dined on two reddish fish, like a large bream, caught in Port Sandwich. A hog and a dog, which had partaken of this poisonous fish, died; and a week or ten days elapsed before all the gentlemen recovered. Some of the isles which the Resolution passed on the 25th, in her progress southward, were named from their most striking features; one being called, Three Hills; another, Two Hills; and a third, the Monument. This last, being a steep rock, accessible only to birds, was the only island on which no people were seen. To the south of these, many other islands were met with ; the largest, which presented a most delightful prospect, richly diversified with woods and lawns, was named Sandwich Island; and the names Montagu and Hinchinbrook were conferred on the two that were next in size. Standing towards the S.E., our navigator, on the 27th, discovered another large island, the name of which was found to be Erromango; but owing mi \ ayiLf J ||; 206 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. to contrary winds, calms, and currents, he did not reach it till monday, August 1st; and after ranging along the west and north coasts, not without danger from contrary winds and currents, he cast anchor on the 3rd, in a bay near a lofty promontory on the N.E. side of the island. Next morning, he went with two boats, to look for a landing place, and to procure wood and water. The natives invited him to land; and when he gave them some cloth, and medals, they offered to haul the boats over the breakers: but he preferred seeking a better landing place, and they directed him down into the bay, and round a rocky point, where he stepped out of the boat on a fine sandy beach. The natives having run along the shore, assembled here in great numbers; he met them with only a green branch in his hand, which one of them had previously given him; and they received him very courteously, forming a semicircle round the boat's bow, at a respectful distance, under the direction of a chief. This man the Captain loaded with presents, and gave some also to others near him. When he made signs for fresh water, the chief sent a man for a little in a bamboo; and on his asking for something to eat, a yam and some cocoa-nuts were presently brought him. Thus far he was charmed with their behaviour; yet as most of them were armed with clubs, spears, darts, bows and arrows, he judged it prudent to be on his guard, and especially to watch the looks and actions of the chief. This man made many signs to him to haul the boat on shore; and when he hesitated about accepting some spike-nails, and began to give some directions to the crowd, the Captain suspecting that evil was intended, stepped into the boat. This TANNA. 207 they immediately began to lay hold of, and some snatched the oars out of the seamen's hands. The Captain pointing a musket at them, they desisted for a moment, but presently renewed their attempt. He then levelled his piece at their chief, to make him the sole victim of this treachery; but it missed fire : and as the natives began to throw stones and darts, and to shoot their arrows, he found it absolutely necessary to order his men to fire at them. The first discharge threw them into confusion; but a second was required to drive them off the beach. Four of them fell in the skirmish, two of whom afterwards crawled into the bushes. The Captain was glad that many of the muskets did not go off, as the slaughter would otherwise have been much gfeeater. On his side, one man was severely wounded in the cheek with a dart, and Mr. Gilbert was slightly hurt in the breast with an arrow. Having returned on board with his party, Capt. Cook observing a number of the natives assembled on the low rocky point, displaying two oars which had been lost in the scuffle, and which perhaps they wanted to restore, fired a four pound shot at them, to shew them the effect of the great guns; upon which, seeing the shot fall near them, they ran off in terror, leaving the oars standing up against the bushes. The Captain had intended to bring the ship nearer the shore, and to land again in quest of water; but a fair wind arising, he sailed out of the bay, to pursue his course towards the south, giving the adjoining promontory the appro- priate^fiame of traitor's Head. On iftday the 5th, our navigator arrived at another island, which was found to be called Tanna. A great light see* at the east end of it during the 208 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. in night, proved to be the flame of a volcano, which threw up quantities of fire and smoke, with a rumbling noise heard at a distance. A fine harbour being discovered, afterwards named Port Resolution, the ship was safely anchored here, in order to be supplied with wood and water. While the vessel was warping in, many of the natives came off to her, some in canoes, and others by swimming; and though shy at first, they at length ventured to come under the stern, and made some exchanges. They threw some cocoa-nuts towards the ship; and the Captain went into a boat, and picked them up; presenting some cloth and other articles in return. This encouraged others to approach; and they soon became insolent and daring, attempting to carry off every thing within their reach, particularly the buoys of the anchors. A few muskets fired in the air had no effect; but the discharge of a four pounder made them quit their canoes, and leap into the water. Yet finding themselves unhurt, they soon rallied; and shouting, and flourishing their weapons, returned to the buoys: but a few musquetoon shots sent them all on shore, without hurting them. During these transactions, a friendly old man, named Paowang, made several trips to the vessel in a small canoe, disposing of cocoa-nuts or yams, for any thing that was given him. Towards evening, the Captain landed with a strong force, in the face of a crowd of natives; who formed two parties, on the right and the left, armed with clubs, darts, spears, slings and stones, bows and arrows. The Captain gave presents to the old people; and he and his men, after filling two casks with fresh wat§f at a pond, and • TANNA. 209 receiving a few cocoa-nuts, returned on board unmolested. Next day, to facilitate the shipment of wood and water, which were much wanted, and to overawe the natives, that they might not interrupt the men when at work, the Resolution was warped farther up the harbour, and moored abreast of the landing place. While this was doing, the islanders assembled to the amount of some thousands, armed as before; and stationed themselves in two parties, one on each side of the landing place. A few persons came off now and then in a canoe, bring* ing cocoa-nuts or plantains; and, though they asked nothing in return, care was taken that they should always have something. Old Paowang was one who came off; and the Captain, having given him a large piece of cloth, made signs to him, that his countrymen should lay aside their weapons. He returned on shore, and was seen speaking to both the companies on the subject; while he set them an example by laying aside his own weapons, and henceforth appearing unarmed, Some of his brethren, however, were less pacific. Three fellows in a canoe came under the stern, one of whom brandished a club, which he struck against the ship's side in defiance. He at last offered to exchange his club for a string of beads, and other trifles; but when these were handed down to him, he and his comrades paddled off with the club. This was what the Captain expected; and to shew the natives the effect of fire arms, a fowling piece, loaded with small shot, was dis* charged at the rogue : and when he was out of musket shot, some musquetoons, or wall pieces, were fired; which made all the three leap out of 15 ; 1 210 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. the canoe, and swim ashore with her, under her off side. The ship being moored, the Captain embarked with the marines, and a party of seamen, in three boats; and made for the landing place, where the natives had left a space for them, and had deposited a few small bunches of plantains, a yam, and two or three roots; between which and the water, four small reeds were stuck upright in the sand. Paowang and two others stood here, inviting the party to land. The Captain, remembering the trap laid for him at Erromango, made signs for both divisions to retire farther back, and leave more room; and Paowang seemed to desire them to comply. But as they kept their stations, and increased in numbers, the Captain, to frighten them, ordered a musket to be fired over the right hand division, which was by far the strongest. For a moment they were alarmed; but presently recovering themselves, they began to display their weapons. One fellow held up his posteriors, so as to express his defiance and contempt. Upon this, three or four muskets were fired, as a signal for the ship to fire a few great guns; which presently dispersed them. The Captain and his friends then landed, and marked out the limits on the right and left, by a line. Paowang still kept his ground, -while his comrades had fled; and his confidence was rewarded with a present. Others gradually approached; but were now more friendly and civil; some laying aside .their arms, and some climbing the cocoa-nut trees, and casting down nuts to their visitors, who gave them presents in return. The Captain made signs, that wood was wanted, as well as water; and his aged friend, with those TANNA. 211 around, gave him license to cut down wood, on condition that the cocoa-nut trees should be spared. Matters being thus amicably settled, the Captain and his party returned on board to dine, and the islanders dispersed. It is noticed as a very happy- circumstance, that no one appeared to have been hurt by the shots, either on thai day or the day preceding. The British landed again in the afternoon, and while a quantity of water was taken on board, a large supply of mullet, and other fish, was caught with the seine. They saw only a few natives, among whom was their trusty friend Paowang, who presented them with a pig, the only one procured at the island. Here our navigators remained for a fortnight, during which they not only took in wood, water, and ballast; but repaired the main-top mast, and the tiller. The volcano, which was about four miles to the west of them, was often troublesome. It vomited columns of fire and smoke, sometimes to a prodigious height; and threw up great stones occasionally, with a terrible noise. The air was generally loaded with ashes, which fell at the harbour in the form of fine powder, exceedingly annoying to the eyes, and covering every thing with dust. It was unusually furious during rain; and at such times, the rain which fell at the harbour was like a shower of mire. Excjarsions were frequently made into the country, and more than once a party set out to visit tfie volcano: but the natives, who were jealous of such intrusions, refused t^ conduct them thither, and even purposely led them out of the way; and so many hilly ridges, densely^ covered with wo$d, were found to intervene, that the project was given up. The volcano 212 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. was not situated on an eminence, but on the side of a ridge, which was far from being the highest part of the island. In different spots on the sides of the hill, to the west of the harbour, were seen fissures in the ground, communicating with the volcano, and emitting quantities of smoke or steam, especially when it raged with most violence. The ground at these places was very hot, a sulphureous smell was felt, and particles of sulphur, with a substance that tasted like alum, were found. Near some of these spots, fig-trees were seen growing luxuriantly. On the same side of the harbour, a man scalded his fingers, in taking up a stone for ballast, out of some water; and this led to the discovery of hot springs, at the foot of the cliff. In one of these, the thermometer rose to 202^°, being very near the temperature of boiling water. The natives soon began to be reconciled to their visitors, whose power they had been taught to respect. So careful were they to avoid giving offence, that when an axe and other articles had been left on shore, through negligence, they brought them on board. Paowang and the old people, were particularly respectful. A few of the young men were occasionally troublesome; and, in one or two instances, it was necessary to fire small shot, to check them. Other young people, however, became attached to the strangers; particularly a youth named Wha-a-gou, who dined with the Captain, on the 9th. His friends came off in a canoe to inquire after him, and when he spoke to them from the quarter-gallery, they went on shore, and quickly returned with a cock, a little sugarcane, and a few cocoa-nuts, as a present to the Captain, The latter presented him with a pair of TANNA. 213 aogs, on which he set great value. Paowang brought several presents; and on that day, when the Captain went on shore with the youth, his old friend brought him a present of fruit and roots, which, to make a greater show, about twenty men were employed to bring, although two could easily have carried the whole* Mr. Forster, in one of his botanical excursions, fell in with Paowang's house; where he saw most of the articles that had been given him, hanging on the adjoining trees and bushes, as if unworthy to be under his roof. The natives were at first jealous of allowing the strangers to visit their dwellings; and told some of the men, that they might go home with them, if they stripped themselves naked as they were* But when they became better acquainted with their new friends, they permitted them to visit and examine their huts; each of which might be compared to the roof of a thatched cottage, taken off the walls, and placed on the ground. Some were open at both ends; others partially closed with reeds. A few were 30 or 40 feet long, by 14 or 16 broad. One hut, closed at both ends, and surrounded by a reed fence, was understood to contain a dead body. The Captain was very desirous to look within; but the elderly man who conducted him, would not permit him, and was even displeased at his looking into a basket that hung at one end of the hut, containing a piece of roasted yam and some leaves. He, and a woman that was with him, had locks of human hair, fastened to a kind of necklace; and they both refused to sell any of them to the Captain, intimating that the hair was that of the dead person within. Their houses were generally shaded with large 214 COOK S SECONC VOYAGE- it Til I I trees, and near most of them were some upright stems of trees, fixed in the ground, orf purpose to hang up cocoa-nuts to dry. They had^lne plantations in several places, laid out by line; well stocked with fruit-trees, plantains, sugar-canes, yams, 'and other roots. The nutmeg appears to grow on the island; for Mr. Forster shot a pigeon with a wild nutmeg in its craw. In most of their plantations were some deep holes, for catching rats; which abound here, and are ver^* destructive to the canes. When the tiller wras found to warilNrepairing, there was but one tree in the neighbourhood j udg- ed fit for that purpose; and when the carpenter and others began to cut it down, on the 16th, Paowang was displeased. The Captain, apprized of this, gave orders to desist; and going ashore, sent for Paowang, presented him with a dog and a piece of cloth; and then explained to him, and to those who were with him, for what purpose the tree was wanted. Upon this, they all, with one voice, gave their consent, and were well pleased with the way he took to obtain it. The Captain took his friend on board to dine with him, and afterwards accompanied him on shore, to visit an old chief, named Geogy, said to be the Areeke, or King, of the island. He wore a broad red and white checkered belt, and had a merry open countenance, although very old. He had a son wtth him, not less than 45 or 50 years of age, who also had the title Areeke. Next day they both dined with the Captain on board; eating heartily of plantain- pudding, greens, and yams, but scarcely tasting the salt beef and pork. Each of them received, after dinner, a hatchet, a spike-nail, arid some TANNA. 215 medals; and then their Majesties were conducted on shore, well pleased with their visit. In conversing with the inhabitants of Tanna, our people were given to understand that they were cannibals; but as no tokens of it were seen, the Captain expresses a doubt, whether their language may not have been misunderstood. On another point, it was fully ascertained, that their actions had been misinterpreted* The uncommon attentions which they paid to some young men, and their endeavours to entice them into the woods, gave rise to an opinion, that the natives were addicted to an unnatural crime; but it Was afterwards found, that they had mistaken these youths for women. Hence the Captain observes, that there is ^a danger of forming erroneous notions of a people, whose language is imperfectly understood. The language of these islanders bears no affinity to that of Mallidollo, but is the same that is spoken in the islands that are nearer. The natives knew nothing of Mallicollo, Apee, and the isles adjacent J indeed, their geographical knowledge scarcely exceeded the limits of their horizon* The females of Tanna, as in most savage tribes, are treated with great harshness, having all the most laborious work to perform* It was common to see them carrying the*most ponderous loads, like beasts of burden, while their tyrannical lords were walking beside them at their ease* This degradation* of the weaker sex prevails among almost all uncivilized nations. It is Christianity that most effectually elevates females to their proper sphere, ?and secures for them that respect to which they are entitled* 213 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. The canoes of Tanna are very rudely constructed; but the clubs, bows, arrows, and spears are neatly made. Scarcely any implements for fishing were seen, as the people live almost wholly on the produce of the land* They are very expert in throwing their darts or spears; for which purpose they use a becket, that is, a piece of thick plaited cord about six inches long, with an eye in one end, and a knot at the other; the eye being fixed on the forefinger of the right hand, while the other end is hitched round the middle of the dart. Mr. Wales, who was much among them, makes the following interesting remarks in his journal, relating to their expertness in the use of the spear: " I must con- " fess, I have been often led to think the feats " which Homer represents his heroes as perform- " ing with their spears, a little too much of the " marvellous to be admitted into an heroic poem; " I mean, when confined within the strait stays of " Aristotle* Nay, even so great an advocate for " him as Mr. Pope, acknowledges them to be sur- *' prisingi But since I have seen what these peo- " pie can do with their wooden spears, and them " badly pointed, and not of a very hard nature, I " have not the least exception to any one passage " in that great poet on this account. But, if I see I fewer exceptions* I can find infinitely more is beauties in him; as he has, I think, scarce an | action, circumstance, Or description of any kind " whatever, relating to a spear, which I have not % seen and recognized among these people; as their " whirling motion, and whistling noise, as they u fly; their quivering motion, as they stick in the " ground when they fall; their meditating their " aim, when they are going to throw; and their TANNA; 217 a shaking them in their hand as they go along, U &c, &c." As the natives were generally civil and courteous, after being made sensible of the power of fire-arms, the Captain was much displeased with any of his people, who employed these arms unnecessarily, to frighten or hurt them. An instance of this kind had happened on the 10th, when the petty officers attending the wood party, fired at some boys, who had thrown two or three stones from behind a thicket. A more lamentable case of wanton cruelty occurred on friday, the 19th. The men were getting some logs of wood into a boat, when several natives came forward to see what was doing; and having overstepped the limits marked out at the landing place, the sentry ordered them to fall back; which they readily did. At this time, the Captain saw with surprise the sentry presenting his piece at them; and before he had time to reprove him, the rascal fired, and one of the men fell. He was lifted up, and carried off by two others, who washed his wound. The Captain immediately sent for the Surgeon; but on his arrival, the poor fellow was found to be expiring. The cruel sentry pretended, that he had been forced to fire in his own defence, as a man who stood near the unfortunate victim, had bent his bow to shoot at him. This lamentable circumstance threw the natives into great consternation, and several of them ran to the plantations, and brought cocoa-nuts, &c, which they laid at the feet of the strangers, to propitiate them.—In the afternoon, when the Captain went on shore again, only a few natives were seen; among whom were his friends Paowang and Wha> a-gou, who promised to bring him some refresh- 218 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE* ments next morning, a promise which the very early departure of the ship made it impossible to fulfil. During his stay at Tanna, Capt. Cook obtainadi the names of other islands in sight, some of whi^l had been observed in approaching it: particularly, Immer, a small island to the north-east; Erronan, . the most easterly of this group; and Annatom, the most southerly : as well as Erromango, the island last visited. Port Resolution, which he now quitted, is situated in 19° 32' 25"Ef S. latitude, 169° 44' 3d" E. longitude. Taking his departure from thence, at 4 o'clock on Saturday morning, August 20th, he stretched to the east and south, to take a nearer view of Erronan, and Annatom; and see if any other islands lay beyond them. Returning thence on the 21st, he coasted along the S.W. side of Tanna; and passing Erromango, and afterwards Sandwich Island, on the same side, he began to range along the S.W. coast of Mallicollo, on tuesday the 23rd. This is the largest island of the group, except Tierra del Espiritu Santo, the most westerly of the whole* Through the strait between these two islands, which he called Bougainville's Passage, Capt. Cook steered on the 23rd and 24th, and a small island in the passage, he named St. Bartholomew. Coasting along the largest island, our navigator, on the 25th, entered the Bay of St* Philip and St, Jago, discovered in 1606 by Quiros, who named his place of anchorage, at the head of the bay, the Port of Vera Cruz* The east point of this bay, Capt. Cook named Cape Quiros; and the N.W. point, Cape Cumberland* The former is situated in 14° 56' S. lat, 167° 13' E. long. Troops of natives had been seen on the coast of New Hebrides. 219 Mallicollo; but, as the ship did not shorten sail, none of them came off. The natives in the Bay of St. Philip and St. Jago, ventured off in their canoes to look at the Resolution; but they soon took fright, and returned ashore. At last three canoes, containing five or six men m each, came so near as to receive a few presents. They were nearly as naked as the people of Tanna, wearing only a belt, with some long grass, or flags, hanging down before and behind. They understood the numerals, and other words, in the language of Anamocka; but, in some respects, they resembled the New Zealanders* From the 27th to the 31st, our navigator coasted along the Tierra del Espiritu Santo, sailing round it, till he reached the S.W. point of the island, which he named Cape Lisburne. And now, having seen, and partly examined, all these islands, several of which were hitherto undiscovered, Capt. Cook felt himself entitled to give a name to the whole, and called this group the New Hebrides. He gives a description of the size and position of the principal islands, with the latitude and longitude of a number of points, as ascertained by himself and Mr. Wales* In the construction of his charts of these islands, as well as of other groups, he not only enjoyed the assistance of that able astronomer, but of the officers on board; who, under his skilful directions, had become so expert in taking observations, for determining the longitude and latitude, that he himself remarks, " I have " seldom known any material difference, between I the observations made by Mr. Wales, and those "made by the officers at the same time." CHAPTER XV* Discovery of New Caledonia. Eclipse of the sun observed there. Peaceful disposition of the natives. Their language, manners, houses, and plantations. Poisonous fish. Sundry incidents on shore. Breed of dogs, and of hogs, left. Coast explored, not without danger. Voyage to the S.E. end of the island. Remarkable "pines. Dangerous shoals. Part of the coast left unexamined. Norfolk Isle discovered : its productions. Arrival at Queen Charlotte's Sound. Friendly intercourse and trade with the natives. Upper part of the Sound examined. Rumours relating to the Adventure. Horrible fate of a boat's crew belonging to that ship, as related by Lieut. Burney. Sequel of the Adventure's Voyage. Taking his departure from Cape Lisburne, on the 31st of August, our navigator steered towards the south-west, and on the 4th of September made another interesting discovery, coming in sight of one of the largest islands hitherto met with in the south Pacific,—the island which he named New Caledonia. A high promontory seen on the coast, was called Cape Colnett, after the midshipman who first observed it. The land was found to stretch from S.E. to N.W.; and the place to which the Resolution was approaching, was near the N.W* extremity, where there was an island called Balabea. The coast, like that of New Holland, was skirted by a reef; and a safe channel being found, the ship passed through, and anchored near a small sandy isle, which was named Observatory NEW CALEDONIA. 221 Isle, because on this spot the astronomical apparatus was set up, and an eclipse of the sun observed on the 6th, by Capt. Cook, Mr. Wales, and Lieut. Clerke; who found the latitude to be 20° 17' 39" ■E the longitude 164° 41' 21" E. Mr. Wales measured the quantity eclipsed by a Hadley's quadrant, a method never thought of before ; and it was found to answer the purpose of a micrometer. As soon as the ship came to an anchor, a great number of natives gathered around her, in sixteen or eighteen canoes, rudely constructed, but resembling those of the Friendly Isles. The people had already shewn themselves very obliging, to the men employed in sounding the channel, presenting them with fish, for which they received medals and other articles : and now their behaviour was peaceful and friendly, most of them being without any sort of weapon. Though shy at first, they were soon persuaded to come alongside, and receive presents; for which they returned some fish, that was by no means fresh. At length two of them having ventured on board, the ship was presently crowded ; and several being in the cabin at dinner time, partook of some yams; but had no mind to taste the pease soup, salt beef, and pork. They spoke a language akin to that of Tanna; for yams, which are named Oofee at Tanna, are here termed Oobee ; and the principal chief, whose title at Tanna and the Friendly Isles is the Areeke, is here designated the Aleeke. They were curious in examining every thing on board; but had no name for goats, hogs, dogs, or cats; these animals being all new to them. They shewed a fondness for spike-nails, and pieces of cloth, especially red cloth, The men wore only a belt and wrapper, and per- 1 fill If PS; 222 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. sons of note had on their head a concave cylindrical stiff black cap. The females, who were very chaste, wore a short, thick petticoat, made of the fibres of the plantain tree. Both had ear-rings, necklaces, bracelets, and other ornaments. They were afterwards observed to cover themselves occasionally with coarse garments, made of matting, when resting in their canoes. After dinner, the Captain and some friends, attended by a native who attached himself to him, landed on a sandy beach, in presence of a great multitude, who were unarmed and very courteous. Presents were made to several persons, whom the Captain's friend pointed out to him as men of note; but when he was holding out some beads and medals towards the women who stood behind the crowd, his friend held back his hand. Among the company was a stout young man, named Tea- booma, the chief of the district Balade, where they now were. The first part of his name seemed to be an honorary title ; for the Captain was honoured bydbis friend with the designation Tea-Cook; and the chief of Balabea was named Tea-bi. This young chief gave the Captain and his party a friendly reception; and having called for silence, the people listened attentively, while he delivered a short speech : and soon after, another chief, having called for silence, made a speech also. Their speeches, supposed t<* be in favour of their visitors, were well received; and at the close of each sentence, two or three old men rf^ponded, by nodding their heads, and uttering a kind of grunt. The Captain having inquired for fresh water, his friend guided him in the boat to a narrow creek or river, about two miles to the eastward: and NEW CALEDONIA. 223 they landed at a straggling village, where were some well cultivated plantations of sugar-canes, yams, plantains, cocoa-nuts, and taro roots; and these plantations, particularly the rows of taro root, were watered by little rills, carefully led hither by art, from a stream that decended from the hills. Some roots were baking on a fire, in an earthen jar, capable of holding six or eight gallons. In going up the creek, which was beset with mangroves, Mr. Forster shot a duck, which was the first use of fire-arms this people saw: the Captain's friend begged to have it, and on landing, told his countrymen in what way it was killed. The country being generally barren, the natives could not be expected to bring large supplies; and among the hundreds that visited the ship next day, not one brought any eatables, except this friend, who presented a few roots. Others exchanged clubs and darts, for nails and pieces of cloth. On the 6th, Lieutenant Pickersgill found out a better watering place, nearer the ship; where plentiful supplies of wood could also be got. This day, the ship's butcher, Simon Monk, a man much esteemed, died in consequence of having fallen down the fore- hatchway, the night preceding. In the morning of the 7th, the Captain and a party of friends took an excursion through the country, and ascended some hills in the neighbourhood, from whence they saw another ridge of hills running parallel to this; and between the two ridges, a large valley, where flowed a serpentine river, on the banks of which were villages and plantations. Through two openings in the opposite ridge, the sea was visible; and the entire breadth of the island at this place was found not to exceed 224 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. ten leagues. The hills in both ridges consisted chiefly of barren rocks; the country bearing a great resemblance, in several respects, to some parts of New South Wales, under the same parallel of latitude. Some of the plantations of the natives were passed in returning; and these seemed to be laid out, and managed, with considerable judgment. Bread-fruit is scarce with them, and the cocoa-nuts are small. Their houses are mostly circular, and several of them rather neat, with side walls about 4-g- feet high, and a lofty peaked roof, surmounted by a tall ornamented post. The door posts are occasionally carved. They make a kind of tables within, with posts and cross spars; but having no vents, their houses are always smoky. In the evening, the Captain, officers, and scientific gentlemen, were again in danger of being poisoned by eating a new kind of fish. The Captain's clerk purchased a fish that was struck by a native in the afternoon; resembling a sun- fish, with a long, ugly head. It was ordered for supper; but providentially so much time was occupied in making a drawing and description of it, that it was too late; so that only the liver and roe were drest, of which none but the Captain and Messrs. Forster tasted. About three o'clock next morning, they were seized with an extraordinary weakness and numbness all over their limbs, and lost the sense of feeling to such a degree, that a feather, and a quart pot full of water, held in the hand, seemed to be of the same weight. By the help of an emetic, and a sweat, they were soon relieved; but it was three days before they were quite well. A pig, that had eaten the entrails, was found dead in the morning. When the na- NEW CALEDONIA. 225 tives came on board, and saw the fish hanging up, they expressed their abhorrence of it, as unfit for food; but none had done so when the fish was bought. In other respects, these people were as strictly honest as the natives of Mallicollo. On the 8th, Tea-booma. sent a few yams and sugar-canes as a present; and the Captain, in return, sent him a pair of dogs, male and female. When the chief received them from the officer on shore, he was lost in an extasy of joy, and could hardly believe his ears and eyes. Next day, an albino was seen among those who came alongside the ship: the whiteness of his skin was evidently the effect of disease or accident. The inhabitants, in general, are stout, and well made, and several of them tall. A few were found who measured 6 feet 4 inches. In one of their excursions, the naturalists met with the grave of a chief: it was like a large mole-hill, decorated with spears, darts, paddles, &c, all stuck upright in the ground round about it. Many new plants, and beautiful birds, were found by Mr. Forster and his party. Early on the 9th, the Captain sent Lieutenant Pickersgill and Mr. Gilbert, with the launch and cutter, to explore the west coast. They visited Balabea, where Teabi and his people received them courteously. When the natives crowded around them, they drew a line on the ground, and signified that the people must not pass it. To this restriction they submitted, and one of them, rather humorously, turned it soon after to his own advantage ; for, having some cocoa-nuts which one of the men wanted to buy, and which he was unwilling to part with, he retired to another part of the sand, and sitting down, made a circle round 16 ill 226 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. him, intimating to the stranger that he must not come within it; a prohibition to which he too yielded. The party made few discoveries; their progress, especially in their return on the 11th, was much impeded by squally winds: the cuttef was nearly lost, by suddenly filling with water, and they were obliged to throw several things overboard, before they could free her, and stop the leak she had sprung. The Captain resolving to leave a breed of hogs, as well as of dogs, in this island, took a young boar and sow in a boat for Teabooma, on the 12th> and landed with them in the mangrove creek, at the village which he first visited in quest of water. Being informed that the chief lived at some distance, he told the guide who had conducted the party to the hills, that he intended to leave the hogs here; but when he offered them to a grave old man, the latter shook his head, and with others present, desired them to be taken into the boat again. The Captain not offering to comply with their wishes, the guide, after some consultation, desired him to take them to the Aleeke, the local chief. Accordingly, the party, conducted by the guide, conveyed them to a house in which eight or ten middle aged persons were seated in a circle. The Captain and his present being introduced, he was courteously desired to sit down; and then he began to expatiate on the merits of his pigs, shewing how many young ones the female might produce, and how soon they might be multiplied to hundreds. This he did, to enhance their value in the eyes of the natives, that they might take more care of them. They presented him with six yams; upon which he took leave of them, and went on board. COOKS SECOND VOYAGE- HOW too late to adopt this plan, as he had yet extensive researches to make in the southern ocean, and the season for making them was fast advancing : hence, as the strong westerly winds continued for some days, he had no alternative but to pursue his course to the S.E. On Saturday, Oct. 8th, Mr. Cooper struck a large porpoise, or dolphin, with a harpoon; and being killed, after some exertion, it afforded a welcome meal of fresh meat. On the 10th, a high island was discovered, 5 leagues in circuit, which was named Norfolk Isle. The Captain and his scientific friends landed, and were the first human beings that set foot on the island, which was quite in a state of nature. They found many trees and plants common at New Zealand, particularly the flax plant; but the chief produce of the island is a spruce pine, of a sort between that of New Zealand, and that of New Caledonia. Some of the trees were very large, and of a great height. They obtained here a supply of delicious food from the cabbage palm, with a quantity of wood sorrel, samphire, and other vegetables. Pigeons, parrots, parroquets, and many other birds, resembling those of New Zealand, were observed. From hence our navigators steered for New Zealand; and, on monday, Oct. 17th, they came in sight of Mount Egmont, covered with everlasting snow; and, on tuesday morning, they reached Queen Charlotte's Sound, and anchored before Ship Cove. The Captain's first care was, to see if the bottle which he had left, with a letter to Capt- iTurneaux, had been taken away; and he found that it was gone, but no memorial left in its place, to indicate when, or by whom, it was taken. Yet NEW CALEDONIA. 227 Having got the cutter repaired, and the supplies of wood and water completed, the Captain, after ! inscribing on a large tree at the watering place, the ship's name, date, &c, took leave of this kind and good natured people, and prepared to sail in the morning of the 13th. As Mr. Gilbert thought he saw the N.W. end of the island, Capt. Cook proposed to go round that end, and examine the opposite coast of New Caledonia. Accordingly, after getting outside the reef, on tuesday morning, he steered toward the N.W.; but it soon appeared, that the island extended in that direction beyond what Mr. Gilbert had observed; shoals and sandy isles were also seen to abound toward that extremity of the country; and while there appeared no good channel to pass through the reef, the latter was found to diverge widely from the island; so that, in following its course, the Resolution was, on thursday, far out of sight of land. Upon this, our navigator, not knowing how far this circuitous route might lead him from the present object of research, altered his plan, and returned to follow the coast of New Caledonia towards the S.E., as originally intended. In retracing his * course on thursday afternoon, he was in danger of being driven against the reef by a tremendous swell, during an interval of calm; but a light breeze, aided by a favourable current, soon carried the ship into the open sea. On Saturday, the 17th, he was opposite his late anchorage at Observatory Isle. Proceeding in his course towards the S.E., he stood in for the coast, on tuesday, the 20th, to get a nearer view of it; and observed that the country had much the same appearance as at Balade. He again stood off; n ill I' 1 111 228 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. and pursuing his voyage at some distance from the shore, he observed, on the 22nd, a lofty promontory, which he named Cape Coronation. Another beyond it, seen next day, he called Queen Charlotte's Foreland : it proved to be the most easterly point of the main land. Beyond this foreland, many low isles and breakers were seen; which made it necessary to proceed with caution. The largest and most easterly isle in that quarter, on which there was a hill, was named the Isle of Pines, as many tall pine-trees were growing on it. Such pines were observed in great numbers about Cape Coronation, and in other parts of the coast, and had given rise to curious speculations. The philosophers on board maintained, that they were clusters of basaltic columns, the Giant's Causeway of New Caledonia; and having in their heads, it seems, the notions of a great central fire, lately broached by Buffbn, they connected with this fire the smoke that arose, in considerable quantities, from among the pines; although the Captain reminded them, that no smoke was seen there in the morning, and that their supposed great fire went out at night: the smoke having doubtless proceeded from the fires in the huts, erected in the woods. Having sailed round the Isle of Pines, and advanced toward the west on the other side of it, the Resolution was again in a perilous situation, among rocks and shoals; and the night of the 28th was spent in much anxiety and fear. The return of daylight on the 29th, shewed that there was good cause for apprehension, the breakers having been very near the ship all night. " We owed our safety," says the Captain, " to the interposition of Providence, a good look-out, and the very brisk QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND. 231 soon after, it was perceived, by indubitable tokens, that the Adventure had been at the Cove, after the Resolution had left it: for some trees that were left standing, had been cut down with saws and axes; and a place was seen where an observatory, &c, had been set up, in a different spot from that which Mr. Wales occupied. Immediate attention was paid to the repairing and caulking of the ship; for which purpose, the forge, tents, and other requisites, were set up. In the mean time, the health of his people was, as usual, an object of peculiar care, with our humane navigator. Fresh vegetables were prepared for the ship's company, at breakfast and dinner, over and above their customary allowance. The gardens, formerly sown and planted, were found in a thriving state, although quite neglected by the natives: and it was afterwards ascertained, that the fowls and hogs left here, had not perished. To ensure more fully the breed of pigs, a boar and sow were left in a cove, during the present visit. On the 24th, two canoes with natives were seen coming down the Sound ; but, on seeing the ship, they retired behind a point. The Captain went with a boat's crew to seek them; some birds were shot by the way, and the report of the muskets announced his approach. The natives shewed themselves in Shag Cove, and began to halloo; but when the boat approached, they all fled into the woods, except two or three men, who stood on a rising ground, with arms in their hands. As soon as the Captain and his friends landed, the natives instantly knew them, and received them with lively demonstrations of joy; and the rest, hurrying back out of the woods, participated in the 232 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. same feeling, embracing their British friends over and over again, and leaping and skipping about in exstasy. It was remarked, however, that the men would not suffer the women to approach ; they stood looking on at a distance. When the Captain and his comrades, recognising some of their old acquaintance, asked for others by name, and inquired why they were afraid when the boat appeared; they talked much about killing, an answer which our people did not then understand. Quantities of fine fish were purchased of them, both now and on subsequent days; knives, hatchets, Tahitian cloth, &c, being given in exchange. On tuesday, Nov. 1st, part of another family, or tribe, came from the upper part of the Sound, and carried on trade for some days; their chief commodity being green talc, which found a ready market. On Saturday the 4th, the Captain, with Messrs. Forsters and Sparrman, went in the pinnace, to explore the upper part of the Sound; and, among other new discoveries, they found an opening eastward into Cook's Strait. Within the entrance to this opening, they met with a large settlement of the natives, at a place called Kotieghenooee. The chief, Tringo-boohee, and his people, some of whom had lately visited the ship, received them with great courtesy. Having to return in the pinnace in the evening, they had no time to examine this village minutely, nor to visit a large" heppah, or stronghold, which they saw further up, nor to look into the many interesting coves which they passed. While the Captain, by such excursions, added considerably to his knowledge of the country, Mr. Wales was making new NEW CALEDONIAr 229 manner in which the ship was managed \ for, as j we were standing to the north, the people on the lee-gangway and forecastle saw breakers under the lee-bow, which we escaped by quickly tacking the \ ship." Having cast anchor near a small isle, which from the abundance of plants it afforded was named Botany Isle, the Captain and the naturalists went ashore in a boat, and enjoyed themselves in examining the productions of the place, par- | ticularly the pines, which had been the subject of dispute. They proved to be a kind of spruce pine, ' tall, straight, and with short branches ; excellently adapted for masts and spars. A few of the smaller trees were cut down for spars, and taken on board. Some of the pines were so large and tall, that one of them would have done very well for a fore-mast to the Resolution, had one been wanted : and much larger trees were seen on the main land, and in the Isle of Pines. When the Resolution, by returning a little towards the S.E., escaped with some difficulty out of this labyrinth of rocks, shoals> and sandy isles, our navigator intended to proceed round the south point of New Caledonia, which he named Prince of Wales's Foreland, and explore the other side of this large island; notwithstanding the difficulties and dangers presented by reefs and sand banks: but when he got into the open sea, on Saturday, Oct. 1st, he was compelled by strong westerly winds to abandon his design. He regretted that he had not got the small vessel set up, of which the frame work was on board; as in that case, he might have used the small vessel in examining the other side of New Caledonia, while the Resolution might have remained at anchor. It was i QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND. 233 observations, at Ship Cove; and from the result of his observations, our navigator found, and candidly acknowledges, that in his chart of New Zealand, he had laid down the southern island about 40' too far east; while the northern part of the country was found to be laid down with much more correctness. Among the natives who visited the Cove, was a man of some note, named Pedero, who presented Capt. Cook with a staff of honour, such as the chiefs generally carry. In return, the Captain dressed him in a suit of old clothes, of which he was not a little proud. He had a fine personal appearance, and but for his colour, might have passed for a European. He dined on board, on the 6th, partook of every thing at table, and drank more wine than any one present, without being affected by it. On the 9th, when he and his people brought a large supply of fish, the Captain gave him an empty oil jar, which made him as happy as a prince. In the afternoon, the Captain, with a party, went into one of the coves, where two families of natives were variously employed. While some were roasting fish and fir roots, a girl was heating stones; and this being an unusual thing, the party remained to see what was to be done with them. She gave them, when heated, to an old woman who was sitting in the hut. The latter placed them in a heap, laid over them a handful of green celery, which she covered with a coarse mat; and then squatted herself down on the top of all; thus making a kind of Dutch warming-pan, on which she sat as close as a hare on her seat. This she appeared to do for a medicinal purpose, especially as she looked sickly or diseased. 234 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. ml I 111 '•WE § !•■'*• 1 As the New Zealanders were afraid of the British, on their arrival, and spoke to Capt. Cook in a mysterious way about killing, so a variety of reports were afterwards received from different quarters, which made him anxious about the fate of the Adventure. It was stated, that a ship like the Resolution had been lost in the Strait, that some of the people got on shore, that the natives stole their clothes, &c, for which several of them were shot; that afterwards, when they could fire no longer, the natives mastered them, killed them with their patoo-patoos, and then devoured them. The persons who brought these reports, added, that they themselves had no hand in the affair. They differed in their accounts, as to the time ; but made signs to shew how the vessel had been dashed to pieces against the rocks. Such stories were told to Mr. Wales and others on shore ; but when the Captain questioned the narrators on the subject, they denied every syllable they had said ; so that he began to think, that these stories might refer to some of their own vessels, and their own quarrels. One day, when he had got Pedero and another into a communicative mood, he inquired if the Adventure had been here during his absence; and they stated, that she had arrived soon after his departure, had staid between ten and twenty days, and had been gone ten months; and they also asserted, that neither the Adventure, nor any other ship, had been stranded on the coast. Still, as the reports first mentioned, though in different shapes, had been heard by Lieut. Pickersgill and others> at various times, the Captain was not without suspicion that some disaster had happened. The natives, indeed, when he questioned them on the MASSACRE OF A BOAT'S CREW. 235 Subject, denied all knowledge of it: but the earnestness with which those who brought the report, declared that they themselves had no hand in the matter, indicated that some crime had been committed ; and the behaviour of others shewed that there was something which they wished to conceal. They betrayed an aversion to be examined on this affair, and seemed angry at those who had mentioned it; nay, one man received a box on the ear for naming it to the British. It was at a future stage of his voyage, that our navigator learned those unwelcome truths, which the fears of the New Zealanders now led them to conceal. A deplorable calamity had indeed befallen some of the Adventure's crew. On tuesday, November 30th, 1773, the Adventure, after much beating about, arrived in the Sound; where, by the letter left in the bottle, Capt. Furneaux found, that the Resolution had sailed six days before. Some time was spent in repairing the Adventure, and procuring supplies of wood and water; while a friendly trade for refreshments was carried on with the natives. On friday, December 17th, the ship being ready for sea, Capt. Furneaux sent the large cutter with a crew of ten men, including Mr. Rowe, a midshipman, who had the command, and Mr. Woodhouse, another midshipman, to gather wild greens for the ship's company; with orders to return that evening, as the ship was to sail next day. The boat, however, did not return in the evening; and Capt. Furneaux, being in great anxiety about her, hoisted out the launch next morning, and sent it with a boat's crew and ten marines, under the command of Lieut. Burney, to search for the cutter and her crew. This officer 236 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. returned with the launch the same night, and brought an account of the melancholy fate of the cutter's crew; which will be best described in Lieut. Burney's own words. "On the 18th, we left the ship; and having a light breeze in our favour, we soon got round Long Island, and within Long Point. I examined every cove, on the larboard hand, as we went along, looking well all around with a spy-glass, which I took for that purpose. At half past one, we stopped at a beach on the left hand side going up East Bay, to boil some victuals, as we brought nothing but raw meat with us. Whilst we were cooking, I saw an Indian on the opposite shore, running along a beach to the head of the bay. Our meat being drest, we got into the boat and put off; and, in a short time arrived at the head of this reach, where we saw an Indian settlement. " As we drew near, some of the Indians came down on the rocks, and waved for us to be gone; but seeing we disregarded them, they altered their notes. Here we found six large canoes hauled up on the beach, most of them double ones, and a great many people; though not so many as one might expect, from the number of houses, and size of the canoes. Leaving the boat's crew to guard the boat, I stepped ashore with the marines (the corporal and five men), and searched a good many of their houses; but found nothing to give me any suspicion. Three or four well-beaten paths led farther into the woods, where were many more houses; but the people continuing friendly, I thought it unnecessary to continue our search. Coming down to the beach, one of the Indians had brought a bundle of hepatoos (long spears), but \ MASSACRE OF A BOAT'S CREW. 237 seeing I looked very earnestly at him, he put them on the ground, and walked about with seeming unconcern. Some of the people appearing to be frightened, I gave a looking-glass to one, and a large nail to another. From this place the bay ran, as nearly as I could guess, N.N.W. a good mile, where it ended in a long sandy beach. I looked all round with the glass, but saw no boat, canoe, or sign of inhabitant. I therefore contented myself with firing some guns, which I had done in every cove as I went along. 11 now kept close to the east shore, and came to another settlement, where the Indians invited us ashore. I inquired of them about the boat, but they pretended ignorance. They appeared very friendly here, and sold us some fish. Within an hour after we left this place, in a small beach adjoining to Grass Cove, we saw a very large double canoe just hauled up, with two men and a dog. The men, on seeing us, left their canoe, and ran up into the woods. This gave me reason to suspect, I should here get tidings of the cutter. We went ashore, and searched the canoe, where we found one of the rullock-ports of the cutter, and some shoes, one of which was known to belong to Mr. Woodhouse, one of our midshipmen. One of the people, at the same time, brought me a piece of meat, which he took to be some of the salt meat belonging to the cutter's crew. On examining this, and smelling it, I found it was fresh. Mr. Fannin (the Master) who was with me, supposed it was dog's-flesh, and I was of the same opinion ; for I still doubted their being cannibals. But we were soon convinced by the most horrid and undeniable proof. if if if 238 cook's second voyage. " A great many baskets (about twenty) lying on the beach tied up, we cut them open. Some were full of roasted flesh, and some of fern-root, which serves them for bread. On farther search, we found more shoes, and a hand, which we immediately knew to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of our forecastle men, it being marked T. H. with an Otaheite tattow-instrument. I went with some of the people, a little way up the woods, but saw nothing else. Coming down again, there was a round spot covered with fresh earth about four feet diameter, where something had been buried. Having no spade, we began to dig with a cutlass; and in the mean time, I launched the canoe, with intent to destroy her; but seeing a great smoke ascending over the nearest hill, I got all the people into the boat, and made what haste I could to be with them before sun-set. " On opening the next bay, which was Grass Cove, we saw four canoes, one single and three double ones, and a great many people on the beach, who, on our approach, retreated to a small hill, within a ship's length of the water-side, where they stood talking to us. A large fire was on the top of the high land, beyond the woods, from whence, all the way down the hill, the place was thronged like a fair. As we came in, I ordered a musque- toon to be fired at one of the canoes, suspecting they might be full of men lying down in the bottom; for they were all afloat, but nobody was seen in them. The savages on the little hill, still kept hallooing, and making signs for us to land. However, as soon as we got close in, we all fired. The first volley did not seem to affect them much; but on the second, they began to scramble away as fast MASSACRE OF A BOAT'S CREW. 239 as they could, some of them howling. We continued firing as long as we could see the glimpse of any of them through the bushes. Amongst the Indians were two very stout men, who never offered to move till they found themselves forsaken by their companions; and then they marched away with great composure and deliberation, their pride not suffering them to run. One of them, however, got a fall; and either lay there, or crawled off on all fours. The other got clear, without any apparent hurt. I then landed with the marines, and Mr. Fannin stayed to guard the boat. " On the beach were two bundles of celery, which had been gathered for loading the cutter. A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to which the natives had tied their canoes; a proof that the attack had been made here. I then searched all along at the back of the beach, to see if the cutter was there. We found no boat; but instead of her, such a shocking scene of carnage and barbarity as can never be mentioned or thought of but with horror; for the heads, hearts, and lungs of several of our people, were seen lying on the beach, and, at a little distance, the dogs gnawing their entrails. "Whilst we remained almost stupified on the spot, Mr. Fannin called to us, that he heard the savages gathering together in the woods; on which I returned to the boat, and hauling alongside the canoes, we demolished three of them. Whilst this was transacting, the fire on the top of the hill disappeared ; and we could hear the Indians in the woods at high words; I suppose quarrelling, whether or no they should attack us, and try to save their canoes. It now grew dark, I therefore just stepped out, and looked once more behind the f 11 1 •" 240 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. beach, to see if the cutter had been hauled up in the bushes ; but seeing nothing of her, returned and put off. Our whole force would have been barely sufficient to have gone up the hill; and to have ventured with half (for half must have been left to guard the boat) would have been foolhardiness. " As we opened the upper part of the Sound, we saw a very large fire about three or four miles higher up, which formed a complete oval, reaching from the top of a hill down almost to the waterside, the middle space being inclosed all round by the fire, like a hedge. I consulted with Mr. Fannin, and we were both of opinion, that we could expect to reap no other advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing some more of the savages. At leaving Grass Cove, we had fired a general volley towards where we heard the Indians talking; but, by going in and out of the boat, the arms had got wet, and four pieces missed fire. What was still worse, it began to rain ; our ammunition was more than half expended ; and we left six large canoes behind us in one place. With so many disadvantages, I did not think it worth while to proceed, where nothing could be hoped for but revenge. " Coming between two round islands, situated to the southward of East Bay, we imagined we heard somebody calling; we lay on our oars, and listened, but heard no more of it: we hallooed several times, but to little purpose; the poor souls were far enough out of hearing; and indeed, I think it some comfort to reflect, that in all probability, every man of them must have been killed on the spot." Such is Lieut. Burney's report, concerning the tragical fate of those ten brave fellows; who, after MASSACRE OF A BOAT'S CREW. 241 encountering so many dangers, and performing such arduous services, for their King and country, were barbarously slaughtered and devoured by the cannibals of New Zealand. Had the party been of sufficient force to have ascended the hill near them, on the top of which they saw a large fire, they might there have seen the flesh of their comrades roasting for a banquet to the crowd of savages met on the spot, or they might have seen their bones from which the flesh had been already picked. Some of the remains found on the beach they brought on board; including the hand of Thomas Hill, another hand which was known to be Mr. Howe's, and the head of Capt. Furneaux's black servant. These remains were solemnly committed to the deep. None of their arms nor clothes were found, except part of a pair of trowsers, a frock, and six shoes, no two of which were fellows. As it appeared certain that the whole boat's crew had perished, Capt. Furneaux did not think it prudent to risk another boat up the Sound, to make any further inquiry; and as none of the natives were seen during the next four days, while the ship was detained by contrary winds, nothing more was then known on the subject. Pedero and others who now visited Capt. Cook, and who had no hand in the massacre themselves, could easily have given him a true narrative of this event, had they not dreaded incurring his displeasure. It was when he visited this place again, in his third voyage, that he ascertained the particulars of this melancholy affair. Mr. Eowe and the boat's crew, having collected the bundles of celery, had sat down to dinner, while several natives were near them, headed by a chief named V7 242 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. > fe i ill If Kahoora. No premeditated attack was intended by him or his people; but some of them having snatched some bread and fish from the seamen, while another was stealing something out of the boat, then in charge of the Captain's black servant, the delinquents were chastised with blows. This immediately produced a quarrel, when two muskets were fired, by which two of the natives were shot dead; and before another shot could be fired, the savages, who were greatly superior in numbers, rushed furiously upon our people, and destroyed them all. Had they prudently forborne to resent so hastily the petty thefts committed, no bloodshed might have ensued, and the horrible catastrophe might have been prevented. The boat was said to have been pulled in pieces and burnt. To avoid the necessity of recurring again to the subject, it may be proper here to glance at the sequel of the Adventure's voyage. After passing through Cook's Strait, on the 23rd of December, Capt. Furneaux steered in a S.E. direction, and then proceeded eastward; and meeting with no interruption, he was abreast of Cape Horn in little more than a month. He then attempted to discover the land laid down by Bouvet; but his endeavours to find it proving fruitless, he bore away for the Cape of Good Hope, where he arrived on the 19th of March, 1774. Here he remained about a month, to refit his ship and refresh his -people; and then sailing for England, he anchored at Spithead on the 14th of July. Omai arrived safely in the Adventure, and was the first Tahitian who set foot on our shores. CHAPTER XVI, Voyage from New Zealand to Terra del Fuego. West coast of that country explored. Christmas Sound: excursions on shore, and intercourse with the natives. Cape Horn, and the adjacent coasts. Success Bay. New Year's Harbour and Isles, in Staten Land. Coasts of that country survey- ed; its natural productions. South Georgia discovered, and examined: its dreary aspect. Sandwich Land discovered ; Southern Thule, &c. Forbidding appearance of these icy regions: reasons for not attempting to explore them. Another fruitless search for Cape Circumcision. Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope. News of the Adventure; and of the French navigators. Voyage to St. Helena,—to Ascension,—to Fernando de Noronha,—and to Fayal. Ar* rival in England. Sailing from Ship Cove, on thursday, Nov. 10th, and passing through the Strait that bears his name, Capt. Cook again took his departure from Cape Palliser, and steered in a S.E. direction; but turned toward the east, when he had attained 55° S. latitude. He thus kept in a lower latitude than before, pursuing his voyage in a new track, to explore a larger portion of the South Pacific. Had he known, that this was very nearly the course taken by the Adventure, he would probably have crossed that ocean in a parallel of latitude still lower. The journal of this part of the voyage contains nothing but a record of the changes of the weather, the progress made as to latitude and longitude, the variation of the compass, with notices of ill 11 «i, 244 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. birds, seals, and rock-weed, and of a few striking phenomena that were seen; particularly the aurora australis, and some singular fog-banks that were mistaken for land. During the passage, Mr. Wales ingeniously contrived an instrument .for measuring correctly the angle formed by the rolling of the ship. The greatest angle observed was 38°. Finding no land in this extensive track, and having no hope of discovering any in this part of the ocean, our navigator rightly judged, that the best service he could now render to navigation and geography, would be to explore the western and southern shores of Terra del Fuego, hitherto very imperfectly known. He, therefore, made for the western entrance of the Straits of Magalhaens, and came in sight of the land near Cape Deseada, on Saturday, December 17th.; completing his passage from New Zealand in about the same time as the Adventure. Bidding adieu to the Pacific, which had so long been the scene of his researches, he now coasted along Terra del Fuego, from Cape Deseada southward ; keeping at about two leagues distance from the shore, and marking the most striking features of the coast. To a high rugged isle, which was first in his way, he gave the name Landfall. A projecting point, about 17 leagues further south, he termed Cape Gloucester. He afterwards passed Cape Noir, where he observed some remarkable rocks, and rocky islets. He then crossed the great bay of St. Barbara, which opens into the Straits of Magalhaens: and he named the S.E. point of this bay, Cape Desolation; because here the country begins to be most desolate and barren, consisting of naked mountains and rocks, with frightful pre- TERRA DEL FUEGO. 245 cipices, and craggy summits spiring up to a vast height, without the least vestige of vegetation. In the interior, the mountains were covered with snow, but not on the coast. An island to the south of Cape Desolation was called Gilbert Isle, after the Master. About 19 leagues to the south of this isle, a lofty promontory was seen, terminating in a romantic rock, presenting the appearance of two high towers with a sugar-loaf hill between; and this rock, from a very natural association of ideas, the Captain named York Minster. Finding an opening on the east side of this promontory, he stood in for the land, in the evening of the 20th: and although in some parts of the entrance he found no bottom, he afterwards met with good anchorage; and next morning moved the ship into a comfortable cove, where there was a valley covered with wood, and a stream of fresh water. Here the Resolution remained a week, and this being Christmas time, the inlet was named Christmas Sound. The greater part of this Sound, which is of considerable extent, was carefully surveyed by the Captain and his officers. It contains a number of islands: that where the ship was anchored was termed Shag Island, as it abounded with shags; and another opposite to it, much frequented by geese, was named Goose Island. Numbers of coves, or harbours, were found, affording safe anchorage, with wood and water. A large one, to the west of Shag Island, was called Port Clerke; and another, adjoining to it on the north, Pickersgill Cove. On the day after the Resolution arrived here, a serious accident happened; one of the marines fell overboard out of the head, and was drowned. In lift;. Ill1 246 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE* Other respects, the stay of our people here Was attended with considerable enjoyment. They had not only plenty of wood and water for the ship, but good supplies of celery; while the shags, ducks, and especially geese, which they shot, furnished some welcome, and even rich repasts. On the 24th, they shot no less than 76 geese, so that the whole crew had an excellent Christmas dinner, of toast and boiled goose, goose pie, &c; and having" still some Madeira wine left, the only part of their stores that improved by keeping, they kept Christmas as cheerfully as most of their friends in Eng^ land. The Captain gratefully observes, " Had not Providence thus singularly provided for us, our Christmas cheer must have been salt beef and pork." In their excursions, they had observed huts, and other tokens that the place was inhabited ; and, on the 24th, a number of natives, in nine canoes, came alongside the ship, and some of them came on board* By their familiarity, as well as by the knives in their possession, it appeared that they were not unacquainted with Europeans* They Were of the same wretched nation, formerly seen in Success Bay, on the east side of this country; Bougainville named them Pecheras; a word which they had frequently in their mouth* They are described as a little, ugly, half-starved, beardless race. Most of the men had no clothing but a seal skin, scarcely sufficient to cover their shoulders; although, by using more seal skins, and lining them with skins of birds, they might, with a little industry, clothe themselves decently and comfortably* They are, however, inured to the cold from their birth; for the children had no covering what* \ CHRISTMAS SOUND. 247 ever. Yet these people shewed a desire for warmth: each canoe had a fire in it, over which the poor creatures huddled themselves; and when some of them were standing naked and shivering on deck, in the evening of the 26th, they gladly accepted some baize and old canvass, which the Captain humanely gave them to cover themselves. As they smelt intolerably of oil, their presence was not much desired on board, particularly at meal time. They had bows, arrows, and darts or harpoons, pointed with bone. They partook of biscuits, but were better pleased with presents of beads, medals, and knives* Mr. Forster and his party were much gratified in their botanical excursions. Almost every plant here was new to them, and some species were remarkable for the beauty of their flowers, or the sweetness of their smell. A kind of cranberry, used for food by the natives, grows here in abundance ; and the tree which produces winter bark, was found in the woods*—Mr. Wales was also busy in his department, having his observatory erected on the top of a rock near the ship. The latitude of the place was found to be 55° 27' S.; the longitude 70° 16' W* The Captain, ever attentive to the interests of navigation, carefully describes the position and aspect of the principal points in this Sound, especially at its entrance, and has laid them down correctly in his chart. In proceeding hence on the 28th, our navigator observed in his progress towards the south and east, that the coast is much indented with inlets, and studded with isles, as he had found it to the north of Christmas Sound* At the same time, he considered this coast as much less dangerous than 248 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. it had been represented. In the evening, he had a good view of the Ildefonso Isles, a group about six leagues from the main. Soon after, he passed the west point of Nassau Bay, discovered by Her- mite, in 1624. It is sometimes called false Cape Horn, being the southern point of Terra del Fuego. In the evening of next day, he passed the famous Cape Horn, and entered the Southern Atlantic Ocean. It is the most southern extremity of a group of islands, called Hermite Islands, lying before Nassau Bay; and was found to be in lat. 55° 58' S., long. 67° 46' W* About three leagues E.N.E. from Cape Horn, is a rocky point which Capt. Cook named Mistaken Cape: it is the southern point of the most easterly of Hermite Isles. Between this and Cape Horn, there seemed to be a passage directly into Nassau Bay; but, owing to hazy weather, the objects here were seen indistinctly* Steering for Strait le Maire, our navigator visited Success Bay on the 30th; and sent Lieutenant Pickersgill on shore, to see if any token could be found, indicating that the Adventure had been here. Of course, nothing was observed, as she had not touched here; but the Captain, with his usual prudence, caused a card to be nailed to a tree at the watering place of the Endeavour, to give notice to Capt. Furneaux that the Resolution had passed, in the event of his coming after. The natives whom Mr. Pickersgill met with were very friendly, and made signs for the ship to anchor in the bay. They were the same kind of people as those of Christmas Sound. The bay was full of whales and seals. By comparing the longitude of this place with that of the west side of Terra del Fuego, our \ STATEN LAND. 249 navigator ascertained, that its breadth is not so great as had hitherto been supposed. From Success Bay, he steered to the east, and then, on the 31st, he bore up for the east end of Staten Land, intending to explore the east and south coasts of this country, with which mariners were as yet but little acquainted. His progress this day was retarded by thick foggy weather; and he cast anchor near the most easterly of some islands on the N.E. coast of Staten Land. On this island, the boats landed with a large party, who killed vast numbers of a large kind of seals, called sea-bears, and a still larger species, called sea-lions; the young being killed for food, the old for their skins and blubber. Quantities of young penguins and shags, with some geese and ducks, were also procured; and afforded many agreeable meals. Next day, January 1st, 1775, Mr. Gilbert discovered a good harbour in Staten Land; which, on account of the day, was called New Year's Harbour, while the isles that lay off it were named New Year's Isles. On monday, the 2nd, further supplies of young seals and penguins were procured from the island; and on the 3rd, our navigator stood for Cape St. John, the eastern point of Staten Land; and having passed round this cape, he hauled up along the south coast, till he attained a good view of Cape St. Bartholomew, the S.W. point of Staten Land; after which he bore away towards the S.E. Capt. Cook closes his account of this part of the world, with some observations relating to his valuable chart of the southern extremity of America, and notices respecting the tides, currents, variation of the compass, and other matters useful for navi- 250 COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE* tion, the interests of which he never lost sight of. On the coast of Staten Land, as on that of Terra del Fuego, he observed many inlets and small isles* He briefly notices some of its vegetable and animal productions; at the same time modestly remarking, that he made no pretensions to be either a botanist or a naturalist. One curious fact which he states is, that the different animals at New Year's Isles, seem to live harmoniously together, as if they had entered into a league, not to disturb each other's tranquillity. " The sea-lions occupy most of the sea-coast; the sea-bears take up their abode in the isle; the shags have post in the highest cliffs; the penguins fix their quarters where there is the most easy communication to and from the sea; and the other birds choose more retired places. We have seen all these animals mix together, like domestic cattle and poultry in a farm-yard, without one attempting to molest the other. Nay, I have often observed the eagles and vultures sitting on the hillocks among the shags, without the latter, either young or old, being disturbed at their presence. It may be asked," he adds, " how these birds of prey live ? I suppose, on the carcases of seals and birds which die by various causes; and probably not few, as they are so numerous." On thursday, the 4th, the day after her departure from Staten Land, the Resolution was overtaken by a heavy squall, which came on so suddenly, that there was not time to take in the sails; in consequence of which, a top-gallant mast, a studding-sail boom, and a fore studding-sail, were carried away. The Captain kept on a S.E. course, with a view to fall in with the extensive coast, laid down by Dalrymple, in which is the Gulph of St SOtlTtl GEORGIA. 251 Sebastian; and to search for other lands, said to have been seen in those seas. Nothing was met with in the places marked in the charts; but, on persevering farther towards the S.E., land was seen, on the 14th; yet, owing to stormy weather, it was not approached till monday, the 16th. It proved to be a large island, which was named South Georgia, stretching from N.W. to S.E. Off the N.W. point, which was called Cape North, lay two small isles; one of which was named Willis's Isle, after the person who first saw it; the other, Bird Isle, from the vast number of birds on it. The former is a high rock, situated in lat. 54° S., long. 38° 23'. W. Passing between these isles, our navigator ranged along the N.E. side of the island, and on the 17th, entering an extensive bay, where vessels might be sheltered from all winds, he landed with Mr. Forster and his party, at three different places, and hoisting the British colours, took possession of the country in his Majesty's name, under a discharge of small arms. From this ceremony, the place was called Possession Bay. The country, however, did not seem worth owning, being particularly desolate and horrible. In the interior, the wild rocks raised their lofty summits, till they were lost in the clouds, and the valleys lay deeply covered with everlasting snow. The very sides and craggy tops of the mountains, were cased with snow and ice; while the coast presented an almost continuous wall of perpendicular ice-cliffs, often of great height; and as there was not sufficient heat to melt the ice or the snow, no river, or stream of water, was any where seen. It was dangerous to approach the shore, especially as 242 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. • 1 masses of ice occasionally burst from the cliffs, making a noise like a cannon, and floating out to sea.—No tree could be seen, nor even a shrub big enough to make a tooth pick. The only vegetation met with, consisted of wild burnet, a plant like moss, and some coarse grass growing in tufts.— Animal life was less rare: for seals, or sea-bears, were numerous; and sea birds, of various sort^ abounded; among which were flocks of very large penguins, some weighing from 29 to 38 lb. each. Quantities of seals and penguins were taken on board for food; the ship's company, officers as well as men, being now so heartily tired of salt provisions, that fresh meat of any kind was preferred to salt beef and pork. To the south and east of this bay, several other bays and capes were observed and named, on the 18th, and 19th. At the S.E. point of the main land, a small isle was found, which was called Cooper's Isle. Round this our navigator sailed, on the 20th; when advancing towards the south west, he came to a point which he named Cape Disappointment; because here he saw, from the direction of the coast, and from objects observed towards the other extremity of the land, near Willis's Isle, that this icy region which he had discovered, was no part of a southern continent, as he had fancied, but only an island, about 70 leagues in circuit, being 31 leagues long, and about 10 in its greatest breadth. New land having been observed towards the S.E., in passing Cooper's Isle, he now returned to visit it; but encountering a violent storm, and then a succession of thick fogs, this land was not distinctly seen till tuesday, the 24th; when it was SANDWICH LAND. 253 found to consist of a few straggling rocks, which were named Clerke's Rocks, as Lieut. Clerke had first discerned them. The atmosphere clearing up next day, our navigator steered to the S. and S.E.; and though his progress was impeded by frequent fogs, he found himself on the 28th, in lat. 60° 4; S., long. 29° 23' W. Here he met with numbers of large icebergs, and a sea strewed with loose ice, and the weather at the same time being thick and hazy, he could not advance farther south; but moved about in various directions, as the winds, icebergs, and fogs permitted, till tuesday, the 31st, when, in standing N.N.E., the fog cleared away, and land was seen ahead, only three or four miles distant. This land, of which several portions were seen in succession, and which was thought to be of considerable extent, was named Sandwich Land. The Resolution was now approaching three high rocky islets, the outermost of which, terminating in a lofty peak like a sugar-loaf, was named Freezeland Peak, after the man who first discovered it. The elevated coast that rose behind, whose lofty snow- clad summits were seen above the clouds, was called Cape Bristol. To the south there appeared another elevated coast, which was designated the Southern Thule, as being the most southerly land yet discovered. In steering towards it, the latitude observed was 59° 13' 30" S., longitude 27° 45' W. Some thought they saw land in the space between Thule and Cape Bristol, and the deep bay intervening was called Forster's Bay. The Captain attempted to proceed southward, to examine this new country; but unable to weather Thule, he tacked and stood to the north; and the wind hav- p 11 #54 COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. ing fallen, while a great westerly swell with a hazy atmosphere prevailed, and no bottom could be found with a line of 200 fathoms, the ship Was in danger of driving against the horrid ice-cliffs of Cape Bristol; and all on board were glad when they found themselves so far to the north of this cape, that no land was seen to the eastward. Next morning, another lofty snow-clad promontory was seen, which obtained the name Cape Montagu, lying 7 or 8 leagues north of Cape Bristol, and supposed to be also part of the same country, land having been discerned in more than one spot in the intermediate space. On thursday, February 2nd, another coast was seen, about 13 leagues farther north, and was called Saunders Isle; although it was thought possible, that this coast also might belong to Sandwich Land. On the same day, two small isles were discovered, and named Candlemas Isles, lying in lat. 57° 11' S., long 27° 6'W. These isles were the last of our navigator's discoveries in this dreary region. He was strongly inclined to think, that Sandwich Land might be part of a southern continent; for the cold here was much more intense, and the ice in far greater quantity, than in the same parallel in the South Pacific ; which he could only account for by supposing, that the track of land near the south pole, where the ice of that region is formed, extends much farther to the north, in the direction of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, than towards the Pacific. Anxious to explore every thing, he would gladly have ascertained, whether these forbidding coasts belonged to a group of islands, or to a southern continent; but many considerations in* SANDWICH LAND. 255 duced him to give up the attempt. The country, instead of inviting research, presented an aspect inexpressibly horrid. The land was buried in everlasting snow and ice, where the warmth of the solar rays was never felt; the coast had no sandy beach, or place of safe anchorage, but was faced with frowning perpendicular ice-cliffs, which it was dangerous to approach; a danger that was much increased by dense fogs, squally winds, and heavy snow showers. " The ports which may be on the coast, are in a manner wholly filled up with frozen snow of vast thickness; but if any should be so far open as to invite a ship into it, she would run a risk of being fixed there for ever, or of coming out in an ice island." He justly adds, "It would have been rashness in me, to have risked all that had been done during the voyage, in discovering and exploring a coast, which, when discovered and explored, would have answered no end whatever, or have been of the least use, either to navigation or geography, or indeed to any other science." Besides, the worn-out condition of the sails and rigging of the ship, the decayed state of the provisions on board, and above all, the long continued hardships and privations of the brave men under his command, forbade him to persevere in such hazardous and fruitless researches. On this subject, the following passage in his journal does equal credit to his own humane feelings, and to the conduct of his officers and crew. "My people, indeed, were yet healthy, and would have cheerfully gone wherever I had thought proper to lead them; but I dreaded the scurvy laying hold of them, at a time when we had nothing left tor remove it. I must say, further, that it would have ? '"". I liir 256 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. been cruel in me, to have continued the fatigues and hardships they were continually exposed to, longer than was absolutely necessary. Their behaviour, throughout the whole voyage, merited every indulgence which it was in my power to give them. Animated by the conduct of the officers, they shewed themselves capable of surmounting every difficulty and danger that came in their way, and never once looked either upon the one or the other, as being at all heightened, by our separation from our consort the Adventure." For these reasons, the Captain, instead of renewing his attempt to get to the south of Thul6, contented himself with steering towards the S.E., to see if he could fall in with the land in that direction; and having reached 58° 15' S. latitude, without seeing any land, or any token of its being near, he altered his course, and stood to the eastward, to search once more for Cape Circumcision. This search, like that of Capt. Furneaux the year before, proved fruitless; no such land could be found in the place assigned ; and besides the disappointment, our mariners, in this part of their voyage, suffered much from intense cold, violent gales, and dreadful showers of snow and sleet; which did considerable damage to the sails and rigging. Sometimes the quantity of snow" lodged in the sails was so great, that it was necessary to throw the ship up in the wind, to shake it out of them, otherwise neither they nor the ship could have supported the weight. Tired with such severe and unprofitable service, Capt. Cook gave up the thoughts which he had entertained, of looking for the recent French discoveries; yet, in making for the Cape of Good Hope, he resolved to take the CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 257 isles of Denia and Marseveen in his way; but the winds proving unfavourable, and the weather stormy, he was obliged to pass on, and on friday, March 17th, came in sight of the African coast. At this time, pursuant to his instructions, he required the officers of every rank to deliver up their journals and log-books, which were accordingly received and sealed up, for the inspection of the Admiralty. The officers and crew were also enjoined, not to divulge where they had been, till permitted by their Lordships to do so. Next day, our navigators fell in with a Dutch Indiaman from Bengal. The master, Capt. Bosch, very obligingly offered them sugar, arrack, and other supplies. From some Englishmen on board, our people learned, that the Adventure had arrived at the Cape a year before, and that the crew of one of her boats had been murdered and eaten by the New Zealanders. On the day following, the True Briton, Capt. Broadly, from China, bore down to, the Resolution. Capt. Broadly confirmed the accounts received the day before, and liberally sent on board a most acceptable supply of fresh provisions, tea, and other articles; together with a parcel of old newspapers, which to persons who had been so long from home were highly interesting. The Resolution anchored in Table Bay, on Wednesday, March 22nd, which at the Cape was only tuesday the 21st, a day having been gained by circumnavigating the globe. Here Capt, Cook received a letter left for him by Capt. Furneaux, detailing the particulars of his voyage after parting from the Resolution. Capt. Newte, of the Ceres East India-man, being ready to sail for England* 18 . ■r ! It II 258 cook's second voyage. the Captain sent by him a copy of his journal, with some charts and drawings, to the Admiralty, to whom he had already written by Capt. Broadly. On the arrival of the Resolution, the usual salutations were exchanged, and the Governor, Baron Plettenberg, received our navigators with great politeness. The scientific gentlemen, and most of the officers, took lodgings on shore; while the Captain took care to send fresh bread, meat, greens, and wine, to those who remained on board. Only three men required to be brought on shore, to recruit their health. The repairing of the ship was also promptly attended to. The rigging was so bad, that almost every thing, except the standing rigging, required to be replaced with new articles, which were purchased at a most exorbitant price. It was not surprising, that the rigging, sails, &c, were worn out, the vessel having sailed no less than 20,000 leagues since her departure from the Cape; an extent of voyage never performed in the same space of time by any ship before, being nearly equal to three times the equatorial circumference of the earth! And so well did the Resolution accomplish this long run, under the care of Providence, and the skilful management of our mariners, that they sprung neither low-mast, topmast, lower nor top-sail yard, nor so much as broke a lower or top-mast shroud. Here our great navigator met with Capt. Crozet, who was second in command under Capt. Marion, who sailed hence with two French ships in 1772. Capt. Marion and some of his people had been unfortunately killed by the New Zealanders, in the Bay of Islands. Crozet, who succeeded to the command, returned with the two ships to the FERNANDO DE NORONHA. 259 Mauritius, by way of the Philippine Isles. He obligingly communicated to Capt. Cook a chart, in which were delineated his own discoveries, and those of Capt. Kerguelen; as also the track of Capt. Surville, who had crossed the Pacific in 1769, and had put into Doubtful Bay, in New Zealand, where he seems to have been when the Endeavour passed it. He was drowned in going on shore, in the port of Callao. Capt. Cook was also respectfully treated by the Dutch, Spanish, and Danish Captains, whom he met with at the Cape; and he who had done so much for the interests of navigation, was well en- . titled to the esteem and regard of his brother mariners of all nations. Having got every thing on board, and taken leave of the Governor, and other principal officers at the Cape, our navigator sailed, on thursday, April 27th, in company with the Dutton Indiaman, Capt. Rice. On the 16th of May, he anchored at St. Helena, where also he was treated with much respect: and sailing hence, on the 21st, arrived at Ascension Island, on the 28th. At both islands, observations were made by the Captain and Mr. Wales, for determining the longitude. For the same object, after remaining three days at Ascension, where they caught 24 turtle, our navigators steered for the Portuguese Island of Fernando de Noronha, on the coast of Brazil, and arrived there on friday, June 9th. Having ascertained the longitude of a remarkable peaked hill on the island to be 32i° W., the latitude 3° 53' S., they returned without coming to an anchor, or even communicating with the shore, and made for the Azores. On the passage, they tried the experiment of procuring 260 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. fresh water by distillation; and succeeded in obtaining 32 gallons of fresh water, at the expense of a bushel and a half of coals. The Captain regarded this as a useful invention, but could not advise any one to trust wholly to it; especially as he considered a plentiful supply of fresh water essentially necessary for preserving the health of seamen. On the 14th of July, the Resolution anchored in the bay of Fayal, where Mr. Dent, the English consul, entertained the Captain and his friends with great politeness. Some refreshments were procured here for the ship's company, and nautical observations made, as usual. Mr. Wales set up his observatory in Mr. Dent's garden, and by his observations, and those of the Captain on board, the latitude was found to be 38° 31' 55" N., the longitude, 28° 38' 56" W. On Wednesday, the 19th, our navigators sailed from the Azores, and passing St. George's Island, and Terceira, made sail for England, where they anchored at Spithead, on the 30th. On the same day, the Captain, with Messrs. Wales, Forsters, and Hodges, landed at Portsmouth, and set out for London; having been absent from England three years and eighteen days, during which he had lost but four men, and only one from sickness. After recapitulating the methods which he had so successfully employed, for preserving the health of his people, and glancing at the principal objects accomplished by the voyage, he closes his journal with the following important remarks : " But whatever may be the public judgment about other matters, it is with real satisfaction, and without claiming any merit but that of attention to my duty, that I can conclude this Account with 1 ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND. 261 an observation which facts enable me to make, that our having discovered the possibility of preserving health among a numerous ship's company, for such a length of time, in such varieties of climate, and amidst such continued hardships and fatigues, will make this Voyage remarkable in the opinion of every benevolent person, when the disputes about a Southern Continent shall have ceased to engage the attention, and to divide the judgment of philosophers." CHAPTER XVII. Interest felt in Cook's arrival. Honours conferred on hittf. New voyage projected. His Letters to Mr. Walker. Notices of Omai: His introduction to the King, and to several of the Nobility, &c. His trip to York, Scarborough, Mulgrave, and Kirkleatham, with Mr. Banks, and Messrs. Col* man. Cook*s Father. Lord Mulgrave, the celebrated navigator. The Captain's appointment to the command of a third expedition. He is chosen a member of the Royal Society. His scientific Papers ; one of which obtained the gold medal for 1776. The Narrative of his Second Voyage prepared by himself. His merits as an author. Other Publications relating to the Voyage. Equipment of the Resolution and Discovery. Live Stock, and other articles, put on board for the S. Sea Islanders. Rich presents made to Omai at his departure; small improvement made by him during his residence in Britain. The Captain's instructions for the Voyage. His letter to Commodore Wilson. The safe arrival of Capt. Cook and his shipmates, after a voyage of three years duration, not only furnished the most lively joy to relations and friends, hut was gratifying to the nation at large. The news previously brought by the Adventure, and published in the periodicals of the day; with the frequent appearances of Omai, and numerous anecdotes told of him,—had, indeed, already gratified public curiosity, so as to diminish the interest felt in the arrival of the Resolution; while, at the same time, the attention of the British public was almost wholly absorbed in that great national concern—the American war. Yet, notwithstanding COOK RECEIVED WITH HONOUR. 263 these unfavourable circumstances, Cook was welcomed home by the acclamations of an admiring country, as well as the warm congratulations of his friends. The joy exprest on this occasion was the more lively and general, as his laurels were not now, v as before, entwined with cypress; death had made no havoc among his people; the officers and men of science, who sailed with him, had all returned in health and safety. The objects of the voyage too, had been fully accomplished; for, while discoveries of no small importance had been made, the question as to the existence of a great Southern Continent had been completely set at rest. When the unparalleled extent of his researches, and the consummate skill with which they had been conducted, came to be generally known, he was, by common consent, placed at the head of all navigators, and was named by many, " the second Columbus." It was his happiness to find his friends and patrons, the Earl of Sandwich, and Sir Hugh Palliser, under whose auspices the expedition was equipped, still stationed at the Admiralty board, and ready to receive him with the same cordial friendship which they shewed at his departure; while on their part a high gratification was enjoyed, in finding that their assiduous cares in fitting out the vessels had been crowned with distinguished success, while, with regard to the conduct of the voyage, their most sanguine expectations were more than realized. No time was lost, in marking the high approbation with which his services were regarded by his King and country. On the 9th of August, only Wfh* llii 1 Hi 11 264 LIFE OF COOK. about a week after his arrival in town, he had the honour of being introduced to his Majesty; who was much pleased to see him, and to hear of his success; at the same time examining, with no small interest, several of his charts, which he now presented at court. On the same day, he was raised to the rank of Post Captain; and three days after, he received a more substantial mark of royal favour, in being,appointed a Captain in Greenwich Hospital; a situation at once easy and lucrative, being intended as the well earned reward of his arduous toils and illustrious services. But a sinecure of this description, however great the emoluments, was by no means congenial to a spirit so ardent and energetic. His views of this appointment are well expressed in the following short letter, which he wrote to his friend Mr. Walker, a week after it took place. Mile-end, 19 th Aug., 1775. Dear Sir, As I have not now time to draw up an account of such occurrences of the voyage as I wish to communicate to you, I can only thank you for your obliging letter, and kind inquiries after me during my absence. I must however tell you, that the Resolution was found to answer, on all occasions, even beyond my expectation, and is so little injured by the voyage, that she will soon be sent out again. But I shall not command her: my fate drives me from one extreme to another: a few months ago, the whole southern hemisphere was hardly big enough for me, and now I am going to be confined within the limits of Greenwich Hospital, which are far too small for an active mind THIRD VOYAGE PROPOSED. 265 like mine. I must however confess, it is a fine retreat, and a pretty income; but whether I can bring myself to like ease and retirement, time will shew. Mrs. Cook joins with me in best respects to you and all your family; and believe me to be, with great esteem, Dr. Sir, Your most affectionate friend, and humble Servt, Jams. Cook. For some time after his arrival, the Captain was of course much engaged in communicating with the Lords of the Admiralty, on the results of the voyage, the journals and charts brought home, and other matters relating to the expedition. During this intercourse it appeared, that the ardour of their Lordships in promoting voyages of discovery had not abated; and as the southern hemisphere had been sufficiently explored, their attention was now directed towards the northern. The Hon. Commodore Phipps had been sent with two vessels to the Greenland seas, in 1773, to make discoveries towards the north pole; but as the sea in that direction was found to be covered with ice, a new voyage was talked of, in order to discover a northern passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic, by way of Behring's Straits; a plan till then untried, although several attempts had been made to effect a north-west passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Some months elapsed before this scheme was matured; but it had been broached soon after Capt. Cook's arrival, for he seems to allude to it in the letter given above, and he refers to it again, in II li COOK. a much longer letter, which he sent to his Whitby friend next month, detailing some particulars of his voyage. This recapitulation of his recent adventures, from his own pen, will not, it is presumed, be unacceptable to the reader. Mile End, London, Sept. 14th, 1775. Dear Sir, I now sit down to fulfil the promise I made you in my last, which was to give you some account of my late voyage; which I am the more at liberty to do, as it will be published as soon as the drawings which are to accompany it can be got engraved.—I left the Cape of Good Hope, on the 22nd of November, 1772, and proceeded to the south, till I got into the latitude of 55°; where I met with a vast field of ice, and much foggy weather, and large isles, or floating mountains of ice, without number. After some trouble, and not a little danger, I got to the south of this field of ice; and after beating about for some time for land, in a sea strewed with ice, I on the 17th of January —73, crossed the antarctic circle, and the same evening I found it unsafe, or rather impossible, to stand farther to the south for ice. We were at this time in the latitude of 67° 15' S., longitude 40° east of Greenwich. Seeing no signs of meeting with land in these high latitudes, I stood away to the northward, to look for that which, as I was informed at the Cape of Good Hope, had lately been discovered by the French, in about the latitude of 48£° and longitude 57 or 60° : this land (if any) I did not find, probably owing to hard westerly gales I met with, which might carry me something to the east of its LETTER TO MR. WALKER. 267 situation. While I was looking for this land, the Adventure was separated from me: this did not hinder me from proceeding again to the south, to the latitude of 61 and 62° ; which was as far as the ice and prudence would allow me. I kept between this latitude and 58°, without seeing any signs of land, till I thought proper to steer for N. Zealand, where I anchored in Dusky Bay on the 26th of March. This Bay lies on the S.W. point of N. Zealand, and abounds with fish and wild fowl, on which we refreshed ourselves for near seven weeks, and then sailed to Queen Charlotte's Sound, where I found the Adventure, which had been here six weeks. I left this Sound on the 7th of June, and proceeded with the two ships to the east, between the latitude of 42 and 47°, till we got into the longi^- tude of 136° W. Despairing of finding land in the high latitudes, I bore up for Otaheite; as it was now necessary for us to get into port, the Adventure's crew being very sickly. In our run to Otaheite, we discovered, in latitude 17°, some low isles; and on the 17th of August we anchored at Otaheite, but not before we were within an ace of losing the Resolution. At this isle we remained 16 days, got plenty of fruit, but very little fresh pork: the people seemed not to have it to spare. I next visited Huaheine and Ulietea, where the good people of these isles gave us every thing the isles produced, with a liberal and full hand, and we left them with our decks crowded with pigs, and our rigging loaded with fruit. I next visited Amsterdam, in latitude 21°, an island discovered by the Dutch in 1642: it is one of those happy isles, on which Nature has been] lavishing of her LIFE OF COOK. favours; and its inhabitants are a friendly benevolent race, and readily supply the wants of the navigator. From this isle I steered for New Zealand, and after having been some days in sight of our port, the Adventure was again separated from me, after which I saw her no more. After waiting something more than three weeks for her in Queen Charlotte's Sound, I put to sea and stood to the south, where I met with nothing but ice, and excessive cold bad weather. Here I spent near four months, beating about between the latitude of 48° and 68° : once I got as high as 71° 10', and farther it was not possible to go for ice, which lay as firm as land. Here we saw ice mountains, whose lofty summits were lost in the clouds. I was now fully satisfied, that there was no Southern Continent; I nevertheless resolved to spend some time longer in these seas, and with this resolution I stood away to the north; and on the 14th of March, 1774,1 found and anchored at Easter Island, the only land I had seen from leaving New Zealand. The people of this isle received us kindly; we got from them some sweet potatoes and fruit, which was of great service to us, as we were in great want of refreshments; particularly myself, who had but just recovered of a dangerous illness: the most of my people were however pretty healthy. This island lies in the latitude of 27° 6' S., longitude 109° 52' W.; is about 12 leagues in circuit, rather barren, and without any wood or good fresh water, or even a safe road: consequently my stay was short. It does not contain many inhabitants, and we saw but few women in proportion to the men : they are a slender people, and go almost naked. At this isle are stone LETTER TO MR. WALKER. 269 statues of a vast size, erected along the sea coast: we saw some 27 feet high, of a proportional thickness, and all of one piece. We judged them to be places dedicated to the dead: their shape was a rude resemblance of a man, crowned with a great stone in the shape of a drum, but vastly larger. I next visited the Marquesas, which lie in 10° south latitude, and are inhabited by a friendly and handsome race of people. Here we got plenty of fruit, and some pork, and fresh water. From the Marquesas, I steered for Otaheite, where I arrived the latter end of April. I now found this isle in the most flourishing state imaginable, and was received by the inhabitants with a hospitality altogether unknown in Europe. I remained at this and the Society Isles till the 4th of June, when I proceeded to the west, touched at Rotterdam, and discovered some small isles of little note. After this I fell in with the land discovered by Quiros, and afterwards visited by Bougainville, but explored by neither. I found it to consist of a group of isles, extending from 14° to 20° south latitude. The inhabitant of these isles were far less civilized than those more to the east; and composed three different nations, one of which was a small race with apish faces, and used poisoned arrows. They were all warlike, and obliged us to be continually upon our guard, and to work with our arms in hand. They seemed to be very numerous, and go almost naked: they are of a very dark colour, inclining to black, and some of them have woolly hair. The isles are fertile, and yield fruit and roots : we saw no animals but hogs and fowls; they have not so much as a name for goats, dogs, or cats; and consequently can have no knowledge of them. J Ill j| 1 11 U 1 ii! iW^HM^^ <&._ KLU 270 LIFE OF COOK. Some of them gave us to understand, in such a manner as admitted of little doubt, that they eat human flesh. After leaving these isles, I hauled away to the S.W., and on the fourth of September discovered a large island, which I called Nova Caledonia. It extends from 19° to 22i° south latitude. This country is inhabited by a friendly race : our landing in their country gave them not the least apparent uneasiness, and they suffered us to go wherever we pleased. They are a stout, well made people, of a dark colour, with long frizzled hair, and wear little clothing. The country is rather barren, and very mountainous and rocky, consequently unfit for cultivation. All that can be cultivated is done, and is planted with yams and other roots, and some fruit. This country produceth fine timber for masts, and such like purposes; which is what I have not found in any other tropical isle. The coast is beset with shoals and breakers, which, in many places, extend a long way out to sea; so that we ran not a little risk in exploring it, and at last were obliged to leave it unfinished. From Caledonia I steered for New Zealand, and in the latitude of 29 ° discovered a small uninhabited isle, covered with fine timber.—October 19th, we anchored the third time in Queen Charlotte's Sound, in New Zealand, where we remained three weeks. The inhabitants of this place gave us some account of some strangers having been killed by them; but we did not understand that they were part of our consort's crew, till we arrived at the Cape of Good Hope. That the New Zealanders are cannibals, will no longer be disputed, not only from the melancholy fate of the Adventure's peo- LETTER TO MR. WALKER. 271 pie, and of Captain Marion and his fellow sufferers, but from what I and my whole crew have seen with our eyes. Nevertheless I think them a good sort of people, at least I have always found good treatment amongst them. IBI After leaving New Zealand, I steered directly for Cape Horn: I put in at Terra del Fuego and Staten Land, where we met with little worthy of note. On my passage from the last mentioned land to the Cape of Good Hope, I fell in with an isle, of about 70 leagues in circuit, and situated between the latitude of 54 and 55°, which was wholly covered with snow and ice. Again, in the latitude of 59°, I met with more land, the southern extent of which I did not find; so that I was not able to determine, whether it was composed of isles, or was part of a large land. Some parts of it shewed a surface composed of lofty mountains, whose summits were lost in the clouds, and every where covered with snow, down to the very wash of the sea; notwithstanding this was the very height of summer, or rather towards the autumn, when the weather is warmest in the southern seas. We also met with a great deal of ice in the sea, both isles and drift ice. After leaving this land, I sought in vain for Cape Circumcision; and on the 22nd of March arrived at the Cape of Good Hope, in great want both of stores and provisions, fresh provisions especially, which we had not tasted for a long time, except it was seafowl, seals, &c. I left the Cape on the 27th of April, touched at St. Helena, Ascension, and Fayal, and arrived at Spithead the 30th of July, having only lost four men from the time of my leaving England: two were drowned, one* was killed by a fall, and one LIFE OF COOK. lift ill I died of the dropsy, and a complication of other disorders, without the least mixture of scurvy. This, sir, is an imperfect outline of my voyage, which I hope you will excuse, as the multiplicity of business I have now on my hand, will not admit of my being more particular or accurate. Any thing further you may want to know, you will always find me ready to communicate. I did expect, and was in hopes, that I had put an end to all voyages of this kind to the Pacific Ocean, as we are now sure that no Southern Continent exists there, unless so near the pole, that the coast cannot be navigated for ice, and therefore not worth the discovery; but the sending home Omiah [Omai\ will occasion another voyage, which I expect will soon be undertaken. Mrs. Cook joins me in best respects to you and all your family; and believe me to be, with great esteem, Yours most sincerely, Jams. Cook. P.S. My Compliments to Mr. Ellerton, if he is yet living. The restoration of Omai to his own country being thus noticed by Cook, as one object of another voyage, it may be proper here to glance at the history of this Tahitian, from the time of his arrival in the Adventure. He was overjoyed in landing on British ground, where every object was new to him; the houses, gardens, shops, carriages, dresses, cattle, and almost every thing he saw, striking him with surprise. He had expressed a strong desire to see the great King, King Tosh (for so he pronounced George); and this, desire NOTICES OF OMAI. 273 was speedily gratified; for on the 17th of July, only three days after his arrival, the Earl of Sandwich, to whom Capt. Furneaux had introduced him, presented him at court. He had been previously taught how to address the King, in the most fashionable style; but, when* ushered into the royal presence, he forgot his' instructions, and accosted His Majesty in these words, "How do you do, King Tosh ?" The good natured monarch took him by the hand very familiarly, made several kind inquiries concerning him, particularly as to his health, and mode of living; and desired that he might be suitably provided for, and be inoculated for the small-pox. This last direction was the more necessary, as Aotourou, whom Bougainville brought to France from Otaheite, died of the smallpox at the Mauritius, when he was about to embark from thence for his native island. The Earl of Sandwich and Mr. Banks took Omai under their special patronage, and introduced him to numbers of the nobility and gentry, not only in the metropolis, but in various parts of the country. : He was fond of intercourse with the great, and I shewed no inclination for low company, or mean habits. He assumed the dress of an English gentleman, wearing a reddish brown coat and small I clothes, and a white vest, and having his hair ; clubbed behind. He handled his knife and fork [properly at table, his manners were easy and polite, [and he generally acquitted himself well on his [introduction to persons of rank. At his first inter- jview with Lord Sandwich, whose high station had been mentioned to him, he pointed to the butler, and said that he was " King of the bottles;" then turned to Capt. Furneaux, whom he called fj King 19 274 1IBE OF COOK. of the ship;" and lastly saluted his Lordship as " King of all the ships." After visiting His Majesty, ne was introduced to the Duchess of Gloucester. Her Royal Highness had not provided any suitable present for him; but it occurred to her, that her handkerchief, embellished with her coronet, would be acceptable : and Omai gratefully receiving it, immediately kissed the coronet, and made a most respectful bow to the Duchess. This politeness, so unexpected, gained him the good graces of all present. Soon after this, he was taken to Hertford, near Huntingdon, under the care of Mr. Andrews, Surgeon of the Adventure; and, after a course of preparation, was inoculated for the small-pox, through which he passed safely. JDuring his stay here, he was kindly entertained by Baron Dimsdale, and other respectable persons in the place. Some instances of his extreme sensibility, and tenderness of disposition, were witnessed at Hertford. He was much amused in observing some anglers fishing in a stream; but when he saw that their hooks were baited with live worms, he turned away in disgust, declaring that he would eat no fish taken by so cruel a method. One day he attended a funeral; but he was so affected, that he was unable to see it finished, and withdrew in tears from a scene so painful. When he first saw the church yard at Hertford, and was told that it was a burying place, he asked if all the people buried there had died by inoculation. After his recovery from the small-pox, he was sumptuously entertained at Hinchingbroke, the seat of the Earl of Sandwich, in Huntingdonshire; and while he was here, the neighbouring gentlemen NOTICES OF OMAI. 270 vied with each other in varying his diversions, in order to raise his ideas of the splendour and gaiety of Britain. He afterwards visited different parts of the country, chiefly under the care of Mr. Banks; who introduced him to a succession of pleasures. On the 2nd of November, he was taken to Cambridge, where he append in a military uniform. He was much struck with the dress of the doctors and professors in their robes; and shewed a superstitious dread of every thing which he regarded as sacred. Many, indeed, supposed him to have been a priest in his own country, as Tupia was. A gentleman in the University offering him a pinch of snuff, he politely refused it, saying, that his nose was not hungry. He appears to have spent most of the winter and spring in town, where he enjoyed an almost continual round of entertainments and shows. He adopted, with facility, the manners, occupations, and amusements of those with whom he associated; and, among other things, became a proficient at the game of chess. In the beginning of June, 1775, when Lord Sandwich began his annual survey of the Royal Navy, Omai accompanied His \ Lordship, along with Lord Seafbrd, Sir Hugh Palliser, and Mr. Banks, at the examination of Chatham dock-yard. Mr. Peake, builder's assistant, conducted the Tahitian on board the Victory [of 100 guns, then repairing; and he was filled with wonder at her extraordinary size. About midsummer, he appears to have accompanied Mr. Banks to his seat in Lincolnshire; and tin the end of July, or beginning of August, Mr. [Banks took him to York races. Here they met pith the Hon. Capt. Phipps, and his brother, the Hon. Augustus Phipps, then a boy; and with Messrs. Column, father and son, the celebrated dramatists, the son being at that time only 13 years of age. After the races, the whole party set out in Mr. Banks's carriage for Mulgrave, by way of Scarborough; and some amusing particulars relating to this journey, may be seen in Mr. Geo. Col- man's Random Records. Mr. Colman gives a humorous description of Sir Joseph's ponderous carriage, with its appurtenances; and of the frequent stoppages occasioned by his botanizing propensities. The party arrived at Scarborough in the evening; and early next morning, young Colman went to the sands, to bathe for the first time in the ocean. His adventure here with Omai will be best described in his own words. " I was upon the point of making my maiden plunge, from a bathing-machine, into the briny flood, when Omai appeared wading before me. The coast of Scarborough having an eastern aspect, the early sunbeams shot their lustre upon the tawny Priest,land heightened the cutaneous gloss which he had already received from the water: he looked like a specimen of pale moving mahogany, highly varnished; not only varnished, indeed, but curiously veneered; for, from the small of his back downwards he was tattowed with striped arches, broad and black, by means of a sharp shell, or a fish's tooth, imbued with an indelible die, according to the fashion of his country. He hailed me with the salutation of Tosh (George), and uttered certain sounds approaching to the articulation of—| back "—swim " —jg1"—1| me "—m carry"—" you." This attempt at the English language became intelligible to me from his "suiting the action to the utterance," or OMAI AT SCARBOROUGH. 277 rather elucidating the utterance by the action; and the proposition was, that he should swim out to sea with me. I was J not John O' Gaunt; but no coward, Hal!'—and, considering that I had never yet ventured into the sea,—and that the person to whose care I committed myself, in so novel and nervous an exploit, was almost a stranger, and that stranger a savage,—my immediate acceptance of his offer, by springing out of the bathing-machine upon his back, may be looked upon as a bold measure, rather than otherwise."— " Omai, who was highly pleased with my confidence in him, walked a considerable way, before the water came up to his chin; he then struck out; and having thus weighed anchor for this my first voyage, I found myself on board the Omai, decidedly not as commander of the vessel, but as a passive passenger, who must submit, without effort, to the very worst that could happen. My wild friend appeared as much at home upon the waves as a rope-dancer upon a cord ; but, as soon as he had got out of his depth, my apprehensions were aroused, and I began to think that, if he should take a sudden fancy to dive, or to turn round and float with his face towards the sky, I who was upon his back must be in a very awkward situation. Every fresh motion of his arms and legs carried us some yards further out; and in the intervals of these efforts, he constantly cried, " Tosh not fraid \' but Tosh was fraid, and plaguily frightened indeed ;—that's the plain truth. After a time, however, we went on so steadily, that my fears gradually subsided, and I listened tranquilly to the jargon of my vehicle, who taught me several words in his own language, which had all some reference to our im- J 278 LIFE OF COOK. mediate circumstances, and meant, * swim, drowri, boat, ship, fishes, &c.'—At last, I felt not only quite at ease, but delighted with my mode of vectigation; it had doubtless one advantage over sailing in a ship, for there was no rolling and pitching about, to occasion sea-sickness; and I made my way as smoothly as Arion upon his dolphin. I could not, indeed, touch the lyre, nor had I any musical instrument to play upon, unless it were the comb which Omai carried in one hand, and which he used while swimming, to adjust his harsh black locks, hanging in profusion over his shoulders. Having performed a trip of full three quarters of an hour, the Omai came gallantly into harbour, all safe, passenger in good health." " On landing, we found our fellow-travellers on the shore. My young friend Augustus was vexed that he was not with us; but if he had, he would probably have been de trop [over-weight], for I much doubt whether the South-Sea Triton could have carried double. My father looked a little grave at my having been so venturous; the noble Captain and the Philosopher laughed heartily, ancL called me a tough little fellow; and Omai and I were henceforth constant companions." In the latter part of the day, the party proceeded to Mulgrave by way of Whitby; and in recording this journey, the facetious dramatist, after noticing; the perilous descent to the sands at Upgang, thus describes the dangers incurred in passing along the shore. f When we got upon the sands, the wind had risen, the sea roared, and it was almost dark; the horses took fright, dragged the carriage into the surf; and the evening marine trip threatened to be much less propitious than my morning's —:— OMAI AT MULGRAVE. 279 excursion upon the back of Omai. The unusual situation in wMih'we were placed, must, I think, have puzzled the brave Sea-Captain, and the navigating Philosopher; for, however they might have been ice-locked, or tempest-tost, they had never hitherto begun a voyage in a post coach and four." But the postboys piloted them through this danger, and set them down safe at Mulgrave. It was now the sporting season, late in August; but the heads of the party at Mulgrave took little or no share in the sport, for, says Colman, " the commander of the North Pole expedition, and the visitor of the South-Sea Islands, disdained to shoot at any bird or beast more common than a penguin or a bear.—Omai, however, prowled about the precincts with a gun;—and, if practice can lead to perfection, he promised to be an excellent marksman ; for he popped at all the feathered creation that came in his way; and which happened, for the most part, to be dunghill cocks, barn-door geese, and ducks in the pond. His slaughter of domestic birds was by no means inconsiderable; he knew nothing of our distinctions between meum and tuum, nor of any of our laws whatever; and had it not been that he was naturally a tender-hearted barbarian, it is probable that, after having killed off a farmer's live stock, he might have taken a shot at the farmer himself. Even when he had to deal with the fens naturae, in the regular way, his native Mildness often betrayed him into most unsportsmanlike conduct." I "One day, while he carried his gun, I was out vith him in a stubble field, at the beginning of September, when he pointed to some object at a listance, which I could not distinguish;-—his eye 11- MPRP 280 LIFE OF COOK. sparkled; he laid down his gun mighty mysteriously, and put his finger on my mouth, to enjoin silence;—he then stole onwards, crouching along the ground for several yards ; till, on a sudden, he darted forward like a cat, and sprung upon a covey of partridges, one of which he caught, and took home alive, in great triumph."— 11 was present at another instance of Orsonism in my tattowed friend, when, with the intent to take a ride, he seized a grazing horse by the tail; the astounded animal galloped off, wincing and plunging, and dragging his tenacious assailant after him, till he slipped from his grasp, and left him in the mire. How Omai contrived to dodge the horse's heels, and escape with his brains in his head, I cannot explain. He was not always so intrepid; there was a huge bull in the grounds, which kept him at a respectful distance; and of which he always spoke reverentially as the man- cow" This part of Colman's reminiscences is confirmed by the testimony of aged persons, living in the vicinity. Mr. R. Rayne of Whitby, a native of Sandsend, recollects Omai well; and states, among other things, that, during his stay at Mulgrave, he was one day found perched in a tree; and when asked why he had taken post there, he said that he had been frightened by jjie great man-cow. As to the chief employments of this party, Mr. Colman informs us, that Sir Joseph pursued his favourite study—botany, and sent the two youths every morning into Mulgrave woods, to gather plants for him. The gallant Captain, he remarks, had become "aj| antiquariii$n resurrection man," and "now he had dismounted from his race-horse OMAI AT MULGRAVE. 281 |[the name of his ship], which had carried him in his marine hunt after the North Pole", being still bent on discovery, he had chosen for his "terrestrial hobby," the opening of tumuli, or barrows, on the moors. "It was a kind of field-day," says Colman, "whenever we opened a tumulus;—a grand muster of all our party, attended by helpers, each carrying ' a pick-axe and a spade, a spade;' and as the operation, which occupied several hours, was effected at some distance from the house, we pitched a tent upon the scene of action, under which we dined." The culinary operations of the party are humorously described. In these, "the talents of Omai shone out most conspicuously, and he beat all his competitors." He dug a Tahitian oven on the moor, and baked his dinner in grand style : but, instead of a South Sea dog, he dressed a couple of fine fowls; for plantain leaves, to wrap the food in, he had writing paper, smeared with butter;" for yams, he had potatoes; for the bread fruit, bread itself, the best home-made in Yorkshire."—" As to Omai's dish, in the eating, nothing could be better dressed, or more savoury : the smouldering pebble-stones and embers of the Otahitian oven, had given a certain flavour to the fowls, which made them taste as if a ham accompanied them. This saving by the bye, in procuring the relish of a ham, without incurring the expense of the ham itself, argues greatly in favour of Omai's ■receipt, and is well worthy the consideration of all good house-wives. As to the potatoes, all the Paddies of the Emerald Isle must own themselves outdone in the poking of praties." Of the^esults >of these exhumations, Colman, being no antiquarian, speaks with great contempt: jjfj they consisted K 282 LIFE OF COOK. ' II of a few crumbling pots, dignified by the name of urns, of less intrinsic value than a Staffordshire pipkin; and some small pieces of copper money, with which it was impossible to toss up, for they boasted neither heads nor tails." During his stay at Mulgrave Castle, Omai occasionally visited Whitby, which Colman omits to mention. F. Wardale, Esq. and other aged inhabitants recollect having seen him in the streets; where his appearance, as in other places, attracted much attention. When offered a pinch of snuff in the shop of Mr. Young, in Bridge Street, he replied, as at Cambridge, that his nose was not hungry; yet Mr. Young persuaded him to try it. From Mulgrave, the whole party proceeded towards the north, the Hon. Capt. Phipps, and his brother, accompanying their guests, first to Skelton Castle, then the seat of the merry J. S. Hall, Esq.; and next day to Kirkleatham Hall, the family mansion of Sir Charles Turner, Bart. After remaining here three or four days, the Colmans left the party, and proceeded into the county of Durham. Before their departure, they were gratified with the sight of a worthy individual, thus noticed in the Random Records : " In the adjacent village of Kirkleatham, there was, at this time, an individual residing in a neat comfortable cottage, who excited much interest in the visitors at the hall. His looks were venerable from his great age, and his deportment was above that which is usually found among the lowly inhabitants of a hamlet. How he had acquired this air of superiority over his neighbours, it is difficult to say, for his origin must have been humble. His eightieth summer had nearly passed away; and, cook's father. 283 only two or three years previously, he had learned to read, that he might gratify a parent's pride and love, by perusing his son's first voyage round the world!—He was the Father of Capt. Cook.— This anecdote was told to us on the spot, and I vouch no further for its authenticity ; but, if it be true, there are few touches of human nature more simply affecting." This interesting Notice of Mr. Cook contains two mistakes. He never resided at Kirkleatham, but was now living with his son and daughter, Mr. and Mrs. Fleck, at the village of Redcar, about two miles to the north of it; though it is natural to suppose, that when he heard that Mr. Banks and Omai were at Kirkleatham Hall, he would come hither to see them. The statement, that he had now for the first time learned to read, is also erroneous. He appears to have been able from his youth to read the Bible, and his family Bible is still in the possession of one of his descendants. Ten years before this time, he had carved and lettered the family tomb-stone in Ayton church yard, containing an inscription of considerable length; which we can scarcely suppose him capable of doing, had he then been unable to read and write. Yet as the narrative of his son's voyage contains many words that must have been new to him, he might require some assistance in perusing it; and this most probably gave rise to the mistake. While Omai and young Colman were together. they were reciprocally schoolmaster and scholar, teaching each other their respective languages; and it has been supposed, that during his further stay at Kirkleatham, Omai received some lessons in 284 LIFE OF COOK. the grammar school there; as he is known to have visited Mr. Jackson of Guisborough, more than once, along with his boys who then attended the school. An aged inhabitant of Whitby, Ralph Mil- burn, then living at Guisborough, saw him there at different times. His lessons, if he got any, seem to have been of small service. -^ft is natural to think, that as soon as Captain Cook had a little leisure, he would pay another visit to his venerable father, and to his relations and friends in the north. Whether he visited them at this time, and joined Mr. Banks and Omai at Kirkleatham, to return with them to town, has not I been ascertained. His visit, if paid at all, must have been very short; for, however much he might stand in need of relaxation, his numerous engagements in town prevented him from enjoying it. Yet his attachment to his early friends, was as strong as ever; while his celebrity acquired for him new friendships, among persons of superior rank and worth. Of those whose friendship he began about this time to enjoy, one of the most illustrious was Constantine John, Lord Mulgrave, mentioned by Colman in the foregoing extracts as the Hon. Capt. Phipps. He succeeded to the title about the very time when he accompanied his visitors to Kirkleatham ; for his father, Constantine, Lord Mulgrave, died at the Spa, in Germany, in the middle of September. His Lordship having made a near approach to the north pole, in the summer of 1773, only a few months before Cook made his nearest' approach to the south pole,* naturally felt an * The Rev. Wm. Scoresby, A.B., F.R.S., formerly Capt. Scoresby, Jun., of Whitby, in one of his Greenland voyages, LORD MULGRAVE. 285 interest in his brother navigator, who had encountered similar perils, for a greater length of time, and had displayed talents, courage, and firmness, akin to his own. His friendship for Capt. , Cook was lasting, and His Lordship was one of the few who subscribed twenty guineas each, for the gold medal, struck to his memory.* If Capt. Cook visited the north in the autumn, his presence in town was speedily required, as he was consulted by the Lords of the Admiralty, on every thing relating to the new expedition now projected; and among other things, as to the most proper person to take the command. At this time, all eyes were turned to himself, as the person most eminently qualified to conduct the enterprise; but, after the sacrifices he had made, and the arduous services he had accomplished, for the public good, it seemed so unreasonable to require him to en- made a nearer approach to the north pole than any former navigator. He met in Paris, at one of Baron Cuvier's Soirees, with a French navigator, who had made the nearest approach to the south pole; and taking him by the hand, said, " The north pole shakes hands with the south pole." In asimiJarway, Lord Mulgraye and Capt. Cook met in friendship, though the scenes of their enterprise were " wide as the poles asunder." * See a biographical notice of Lord Mulgrave, the Navigator, in the History of Whitby and the Vicinity, vol. II, p. 863, &c. According to statements, which the author thinks he has heard from old persons in Whitby, several years ago, Captain Cook visited Mulgrave as well as Whitby, between his second and third voyages, and was hospitably entertained by the noble navigator.—With regard to his visit to Whitby, after his first voyage, it ought to have been stated above, at p. 120, that on the day when he came over from Ayton to Whitby, some of the Erincipal gentlemen of Whitby went out to meet him on horse- ack as far as Swarthoue Cross, a distance of four miles, to escort him into the town; a mark of respect which did honour to themselves, as well as to him. Mrs. Watt of Whitby was at Mr. Walker's on the day of his arrival, and recollects the cordial salutation of Mary Prowde. See p. 121. If 286 LIFE OF COOK. counter new perils, that no one, not even Lord Sandwich himself, would presume to name it. An opportunity, however, was given him to volunteer his services. Lord Sandwich invited him to dinner, along with his friends, Sir Hugh Palliser and Mr, Stephens. The conversation turned on the nature and objects of the new expedition; when the grandeur of the design, its consequences to navigation and science, and the perfection it would give to the whole system of discoveries, were set forth in such glowing colours, that our hero, fired with the contemplation of the object, started up, and declared that he himself would take the command. His offer was at once joyfully accepted, and the appointment meeting with His Majesty's cordial approbation, took effect on the 9th of February, 1776 ; it being agreed, that on his return home, he should resume his situation in Greenwich Hospital, The satisfaction which Capt. Cook felt in this appointment, is expressed in a letter which he wrote four days after to his friend Mr. Walker, the last of his letters to that gentleman now extant. Mile-end, Uth Feb., 1776. Dear Sir, I should have answered your last favour sooner, but waited to know, whether I should go to Greenwich Hospital, or the South Sea. The latter is now fixed upon; I expect to be ready to sail about the latter end of April, with my old ship the Resolution, and the Discovery, the ship lately purchased of Mr. Herbert. I know not what your opinion may be on this step I have taken. It is certain I have quitted an easy retirement, for an active, and perhaps dangerous voyage. My present HIS LITERARY HONOURS. 287 disposition is more favourable to the latter than the former; and I embark on as fair a prospect as I can wish. If I am fortunate enough to get safe home, there is no doubt but it will be greatly to my advantage. My best respects to all your family; and if any of them come this way, I shall be glad to see them at Mile-End, where they will meet with a hearty welcome from Dear Sir, Your most sincere friend and humble Servant Jams. Cook. While the preparations for the expedition were going forward, and those who were at the head of the Admiralty vied with one another in their zeal to render it conformable to our navigator's wishes, his scientific friends, to testify their sense of the obligations under which he had laid them, added lustre to his name, by the grant of literary honours. He enjoyed the friendship of Sir John Pringle, President of the Royal Society, and was in habits of intimacy with many of its members. In the latter end of 1775, he had been proposed as a candidate for admission to that Institution; and on the 29th of February, 1776, he was unanimously chosen a Fellow of the Royal Society. On the 7th of March, he was admitted; and in the same evening, a Paper which he had prepared, on the Method taken for preserving the Health of his crew, was read to the Society. Another paper of his, on the Tides in the South Seas, was read on the 18th of April. These two papers are the 22nd 288 LIFE OF COOK. and 26th Articles in the Philosophical Transactions for 1776. The former, being deemed the best experimental paper of that year, was. considered as entitling him to Sir Godfrey Copley's gold medal. The Captain was doubtless apprized, that this honour was designed for him ; but he had set out on his third voyage some months before St. Andrew's day, the time when it was publicly awarded : it was therefore delivered into the hand* of Mrs. Cook. On the occasion of the assignment of this medal, Sir John Pringle delivered a judicious and eloquent discourse, on the value of Cook's services as a navigator, and particularly of the means which he employed for preserving the health of his crew. After noticing the glory which £ook had acquired as a navigator, Sir John proceeds to say, " I shall not, however, expatiate on that ample field of praise, but confine my discourse to what was the intention of this honorary premium, namely, to crown that paper of the year which should contain the most useful and most successful experimental inquiry. Now, what inquiry can be so useful as that which hath for its object the saving the lives of men ? And when shall we find one more successful than that before us ? Here are no vain boastings of the empiric, nor ingenious and delusive theories of the dogmatist ; but a concise, an artless, and an incontested relation &c." The President then goes on to contrast with Cook's success in preserving his crew^ the havoc made among seamen in former voyages of discovery; and to illustrate and recommend the various salutary methods, adopted by our navigator, for preventing scurvy, and promoting health at sea. On the subject of procuring fresh water he HIS LITERARY HONOURS. 289 remarks; "Not satisfied with plenty, he would Jiave the purest; and therefore whenever an opportunity offered, he emptied what he had taken in but a few days before, and filled his casks anew. But was he not above four months in his passage from the Cape of Good Hope to New Zealand, in [the frozen zone of the south, without once seeing land ? and did he not actually complete his circumnavigation, in that high latitude, without the benefit of a single fountain ? Here was indeed a wonder of the deep ! I may call it the romance of his voyage! Those very shoals, fields, and floating mountains of ice, among which he steered his perilous course, and which presented such terrifying prospects of destruction; those, I say, were the yery means of his support, by supplying him ibundantly with what he most wanted." The discourse is closed in the following terms. f As to your acknowledgments to Capt. Cook, and four high opinion of his deserts, you will best estify them, by the honourable distinction suggested by your Council, in presenting him with his medal: for I need not gather your suffrages, >ince the attention with which you have favoured ne, hath abundantly expressed your approbation. :VIy satisfaction, therefore, had been complete, had le himself been present to receive the honours you low confer upon him. But you are apprized, that >ur brave and indefatigable Brother is, at this in- tant, far removed from us, anticipating, I may ay, your wonted request on these occasions, by continuing his labours for the advancement of Natural Knowledge, and for the honour of this Society: as you may be assured, that the object of 20 290 LIFE OF COOK. this new enterprise is not less great, perhaps stil greater, than either of the former." " Allow me then, Gentlemen, to deliver thi^ medal, with his unperishing name engraven upon it, into the hands of one who will be happy to receive that trust, and to know that this respectable Body never more cordially, nor more meritoriously,) bestowed that faithful symbol of their esteem and] affection. For if Rome decreed the Civic Crown toi him who saved the life of a single citizen, what wreaths are due to that man, who, having himself saved many, perpetuates in your Transactions, the means by which Britain may now, on the most distant voyages, preserve numbers of her intrepid sons, her Mariners; who, braving every danger, have so liberally contributed to the fame, to the opulence, and to the maritime empire, of their country!" As the assignment of this high reward did not take place till our hero had entered on his third voyage, so it was at a period still later, that he had the honour of appearing as an author, by the publication of his "Voyage towards the South Pole, and round the World." For some months he had the double task, of preparing for his third voyage, and drawing up for the press a narrative of the second. The narrative, however, was not a laboured composition ; being little more than a transcript of his journal, written during the voyage. Yet considerable pains would be required, both in transcribing, dividing, and correcting what he had written; and in availing himself of useful hints and notices, contained in the journals of Mr. Wales and others. It is matter of regret, that he had not the satisfaction of seeing the work published before he NARRATIVE OF HIS SECOND VOYAGE. 291 sailed. Much time was required for engraving the Plates, 63 in number, the expense of which, a- mounting to £2000, was liberally defrayed by the I government. Yet this was not the sole cause of [delay. Forster the naturalist (who had acquired [the title L.L.D.) claimed the honour of drawing up the account of the voyage, and his claim was so [far allowed, that it was for some time intended to come out as the joint production of Capt. Cook md Dr. Forster; the former supplying the narra- ive, the latter a variety of philosophical observations, and both having an equal share in the profits )f the work. An agreement to this effect was drawn ip in April, 1776; but, after examining some spe- imens of the Doctor's work, the Lords of the Admiralty very judiciously resolved, that Cook's larrative should appear by itself, and Forster's bbservations form a separate volume; at the same ime securing to the Doctor his share in the profits >f the plates. The Captain, who sailed within ess than three months after this decision, left his pork ready for the press, and engaged his friend )r. Douglas, afterwards Bishop of Carlisle, to uperintend the printing; yet it did not come brth till the month of May, 1777. I. In the mean time, unauthorized attempts were aade, as before, to gratify the public curiosity. Towards the close of 1775, a "Journal of the resolution's voyage &c," appeared, in the form of n 8vo volume, of above 300 pages, price 5s. It rust have been a journal which some one on board ad secreted, when other documents of that kind rere delivered up; and it gives a pretty fair account of the leading events of the voyage, whilst in pme particulars it is glaringly incorrect. A small 292 LIFE OF COOK. II NH 4to volume, price 6s. 6d., the substance of some other secreted journal, came out about half a year later. It abounds with marvellous tales, and stories of cruelty; some of which are downright fictions, while others are gross misrepresentations of what really occurred. Several of its statements, containing unjust reflections on individuals, were publicly contradicted by the Captain and his friends. But the principal unauthorized publication, concerning the voyage, and the only one likely to rival that of Capt. Cook, did not appear till several months after the latter had sailed. In March, 1777, Mr. Geo. Forster published a narrative of the voyage, in two volumes, 4to, price £2 2s. This young man, chagrined at his father's being prevented from giving "a philosophical history of the voyage, free from prejudice and vulgar error,—an account written upon a plan which the learned world had not hitherto seen executed," resolved to give a narrative of the voyage himself, with the assistance of his father's journals. His work is valuable, and well written, and we may excuse his extravagant notions of his father's talents; but we cannot so easily excuse his attempt to depreciate those of Capt. Cook, whose work was then about to issue from the press. Mr. Forster, in his preface, not only blames the Lords of the Admiralty, for their supposed neglect of his father,* and par- * Dr. Forster, instead of being- neglected, was highly honoured. He was presented to the King, at Kew, a short time after his arrival, and was graciously received. The Lords of the Admiralty treated him with respect; and he had no right to complain, that they would not consent to his engrossing the honours which belonged to Capt. Cook. He was noticed a few days after his arrival in town, by some gentry whose visit he would rather have dispensed with; his house being- broken into and plundered. HIS MERITS AS AN AUTHOR. 293 tiality to Captain Cook; but insinuates, that the latter was incapable of writing a proper narrative of the voyage, that the forthcoming work was only said to be his, and that "the public must again converse with him by means of an interpreter." When the authorized narrative itself appeared, in two Volumes 4to. (price £2 12s. 6d.), the injustice of such illiberal reflections was made manifest. It was obviously the Captains own composition; and instead of proving a dry detail of nautical matters, it was found, as the Monthly Review justly observed, to be "a well digested narrative, accompanied with observations on men and things, that would do credit even to a philosopher, or a writer by profession; and clothed in a natural and manly style." As a composition, it even exceeded the anticipations of his friends. His style, like his own character, is clear, simple, and nervous. Fors- ter's work, indeed, has more of elegance and ornament ; Cook's is more distinguished for plainness, strength, and utility. In the latter, as might be expected, there are more inaccuracies, and fewer beauties, than in the former; yet Cook always expresses himself well, his style is easy, as well as manly; and, on the whole, its very simplicity gives it a charm, which a more polished mode of writing would scarcely have possessed. His General Introduction, which, from the variety of matter comprised in it, must have cost him much labour, was finished only a few days before he set sail on his new expedition. It closes with the following modest remarks, which are the more interesting and valuable, as being among the last which he wrote in his native land. " And now it may be necessary to say, that as I 294 LIFE OF COOK. • ml am on the point of sailing on a third expedition, J I leave this account of my last voyage in the hands | of some friends, who in my absence have kindly accepted the office of correcting the press for me; who are pleased to think, that what I have here to relate, is better to be given in my own words, than in the words of another person; especially as it is a work designed for information, and not merely for amusement; in which, it is their opinion, that candour and fidelity will counterbalance the want of ornament." "I shall therefore conclude this introductory discourse, with desiring the reader to excuse the inaccuracies of style, which doubtless he will frequently meet with in the following narrative ; and that, when such occur, he will recollect that it is thm production of a man, who has not had the advan-r tage of much school education, but who has been constantly at sea from his youth; and though, with the assistance of a few good friends, he has passed through all the stations belonging to a seaman, from an apprentice in the coal trade, to a Post Captain in the Royal Navy, he has had no opportunity of cultivating letters. After this account of myself, the Public must not expect from me the elegance of a fine writer, or the plausibility of a professed book-maker; but will, I hope, consider; me as a plain man, zealously exerting himself in the service of his country, and determined to give! the best account he is able of his proceedings." "Plymouth Sound, July 7, 1776." It is one excellence of Capt Cook's work, that in every part of it, we find him more ready to commend, than to censure. A different spirit is :;\,; WORKS RELATING TO THE VOYAGE. 295 breathed by Mr. Forster, who, in many passages, refers charges of ignorance, cruelty, and brutality, oth against the officers, and the men. These lharges were rebutted by Mr. Wales, in an 8vo. iamphlet, published in 1778, entitled, " Remarks n Mr. Forster's Account of Captain Cook's last oyage," &c. In these remarks, which are rather jevere, Mr. Wales denies the statements of Mr. 'orster, in various particulars; and alleges that )r. Forster, who, like his son, had " very exalted potions of himself," was extremely quarrelsome on toard; and so far from being more humane than khers, required to be checked, both by Capt. Cook tnd Lieut. Clerke, for acts of wanton cruelty. Mr. Forster published a reply, well seasoned with acri- [nony, in which, while he denies several assertions )f Mr. Wales, he admits that it was not unusual for his father to have warm, and even very violent lisputes with the Captain, who, on one occasion, insisted on Dr. Forster's leaving his apartment.* It is no small proof of the forbearance and good spirit of our navigator, that although Dr. Forster appears to have so often annoyed him, he never in the course of the narrative, mentions him disrespectfully, f * The critics of those times disagree in their verdict on this controversy; the Monthly Review and the Gentleman's Magazine condemning Mr. Forster, while the London Magazine favours him, and the Town and Country Magazine highly applauds him, and fiercely runs down Mr. Wales. f Mr. Forster alleges (Vol. II. p. 420), that most of the gentlemen on board did every thing m their power to thwart him and his father in their pursuits, but seems to acquit the Captain of sharing in this hostility ; when he says, that they were in danger of falling " victims to that malevolence, which even the positive commands of Captain Cook were sometimes insufficient to keep within bounds." The truth seems to be, 296 LIFE OF COOK, Dr. Forster's own work, entitled, " Observations! made during a Voyage round the World, on Physical Geography, Natural History, and Ethic Philosophy; especially on the Earth, its Strata, &c," appeared in one volume 4to., in 1778. It contains a mass of valuable information, and interesting researches, concerning the human race, and the various departments of natural history. While it displays much talent and learning, no one who reads it can regret that it was published by itself* instead of being mixed up with Cook's narrative. To general readers, the metaphysical disquisitions, and favourite theories of the author, will be found to possess little interest; and instead of adorning the work of our navigator, they would rather have seemed to disfigure it. Yet, in a scientific point of view, Forster's Observations, as well as his son's narrative, may be regarded as of great value. Their philological remarks are more accurate than those of Cook, and in spelling Tahitian names and words, their orthography corresponds more with that of the Missionaries, who having resided for that the intolerable vanity of the Forsters induced several of the officers to take a pleasure in mortifying them.' Under the influence of mortified vanity, and disappointed ambition, Mr. Forster, in June, 1778, published a most abusive Letter to the Earl of Sandwich, charging His Lordship with atrocious acts of injustice towards him and his father, and imputing these to the sinister influence of a favourite lady, Miss Ray, who was offended at being refused some of the beautiful birds, which Dr. Forster brought home and presented to the Queen. He also prefers charges of selfishness against Capt. Cook, which the latter could now have no opportunity of repelling. It is curious to observe, that he accuses Lord Sandwich of malice, in fixing the price of Cook's work so low as to injure the sale of his. It might have been retorted, that he took care to get the start of Cook's narrative, to injure its sale. Of the latter, however, according to Forster's statement, 3000 copies had then been sold. EQUIPMENT OF THE SHIPS. 297 [ears at the islands, must he best acquainted with tie true pronunciation of the language. The f orsters observed correctly, that the 0 in O-taheite, )-mai, &c, is only a prefix, and not properly a >art of the name.* The original Astronomical Observations of Mes- ieurs Wales and Bayley, made during the Voy- ige, were published by authority, near the close of 1777, in one volume, 4to. price One Guinea. These Observations, like Dr. Forster's, were very oroperly detached from Cook's work. A valuable Introduction was prefixed by Mr. Wales, in which, imong other things, a description is given of his Portable Observatory. The equipment of the two ships for the new expedition had engaged much of Capt. Cook's attention, before he was himself appointed to take the command. The Discovery, a bark of 295 tons burthen, which was to accompany the Resolution, was selected by him; and, like all his former ships, was a Whitby vessel. It was built in 1774, by those eminent builders> Messrs. G. and N. Lang- borne, for Mr. Wm. Herbert, of Scarborough; * Dr. Andreas Sparrman, the assistant of Dr. Forster, did not come to England in the Resolution, but remained at the Cape, where he had embarked. He performed a journey into the interior of Africa, in August, 1775, and sent a paper to the Royal Society, giving an account of this journey, and of some | discoveries which he made in natural history. The two Porsters published, in November, 1775, in one Volume 4to (price £1 7s.), a botanical work entitled, Charac- \teres^Generum Plantarum, &c, exhibiting their principal discoveries in botany during the voyage. It is valuable, but too dear; and serves to illustrate the characters of the authors, as well as of the plants; for, as the Monthly Review observes, the vast size of the plates, compared with the minuteness of the subjects delineated, " while it enhances the price of the volume, gives it an air of ostentation approaching to the ludicrous." 298 LIFE OF COOK. and was originally called the Diligence. It is scarcely necessary to observe, that the Earl qjf Sandwich, Sir Hugh Palliser, and the rest of the Board of Admiralty, made every provision for the due equipment of the vessels; and took special care to consult, in all respects, the comfort of our navigator. Capt. Cook preferred his own ship, the? Resolution; and, in accordance with his wishes*! the command of the Discovery was given to Capt. Charles Clerke, who had been one of his Lieutenants in both his voyages, and was originally promoted by himself. Several others of his former shipmates, both officers and men, gladly embarked with him again, in this new enterprise. The two vessels were plentifully supplied, not only with an excellent stock of provisions and necessaries of all kinds, but with those antiscorbutics, which during the last voyage, were found to be of so much utility in preserving health. An extra supply of clothing for the men, adapted to the climates in which they were to be employed, was also liberally furnished. The frame work of a small vessel, sent out in the Resolution before, had never been used; yet, as the Captain found that it might have been useful in exploring such a coast as that of New Caledonia, and as it might afford the means of safety, in case of shipwreck, each ship was now furnished with a frame of this kind, to be used as occasion might require. As our navigator had humanely endeavoured to stock some of the countries which he visited, with useful animals and vegetables, His Majesty, to second his benevolent views, ordered a quantity of live stock, including a bull and two cows, with their calves, to be put on board for Otaheite, and OFFICERS APPOINTED. 299 ther islands of the Pacific ; while directions were iven to take on board other useful animals at the 'ape of Good Hope. A good supply of European arden" seeds was also furnished; and a large tock of iron tools and trinkets, not only for pre- ents, but for barter. On this occasion, as in the former expeditions, he interests of science were not overlooked; but, is the Captain had, in his late voyage, found him- elf much annoyed by a portion of his scientific taff, he thought it best to dispense with the ser- ices of any professed philosopher. The depart- nent of astronomy was undertaken by himself, ;tnd his second Lieutenant, Mr. King; and unto hem the necessary astronomical instruments were ielivered by the Board of Longitude, with the chronometer used in the last voyage. The province of natural history was assigned to Mr. Anderson, [Surgeon of the Resolution, a gentleman possessed of considerable talents and learning; who had ^assisted the Captain, in his late voyage, in preparing a copious vocabulary of the language of Otaheite, with specimens of other languages. A skilful artist* Mr. Webber, was also appointed to the Resolution; and several of the young officers on board were well qualified to assist the Captain in constructing charts and plans. The Discovery was also provided with a good chronometer, and astronomical apparatus; and Mr. William Bay ley (or Bayly), who had distinguished himself by his skill and diligence as an astronomer on board the Adventure, now embarked in the Discovery, to assist Captain Clerke in the same capacity. The Resolution had the same complement of officers and men as before, and the Discovery had the 300 LIFE OF COOK. same complement as the Adventure, except that she had no marine officer on board. Messrs. Gore and Williamson were the first and third Lieutenants of the Resolution, and Mr. Philips, Lieutenant of the Marines; Messrs. Burney and Rickman were the Lieutenants of the Discovery; and Mr. Law, the Surgeon. After the ships had been fitted out at Deptford, and taken their stores on board, they proceeded down the river to Long Reach ; where, on the 8th of June, the Earl of Sandwich, Sir Hugh Palliser, and others of the Board of Admiralty, as a last mark of their unremitting attention and special friendship, visited our navigator, to see if every thing had been provided according to his wishes; and they dined with him on board the Resolution, accompanied by several other noblemen and gentlemen. On the 15th, both ships sailed from Long Reach; and the Discovery proceeded towards Plymouth, while the Resolution remained at the Nore, till the Captain was ready to join her. He had returned to London, to complete his arrangements for the voyage, and to spend a few days with Mrs. Cook and his family; perhaps anticipating, that these might be, as alas! they indeed proved, the last that he should ever spend with them. When he finally quitted London, on Monday, June 24th, he was accompanied by Omai, the Tahitian, who now embarked with him, to return to his native country. This youth had become warmly attached to the British, ever since he landed on our shores; and considering the hospitality which had been shewn him by persons of every rank, it is no wonder that he left them with regret. Yet his love to his native land, was as strong PRESENTS TO OMAI. 301 as ever, and when the dear islands of the South Sea were named to him, his eyes sparkled with joy. As he had been caressed during his stay, by men of all classes, from the prince to the peasant, so at his departure he was loaded with presents. His Majesty, who took a lively interest in him ever since he was introduced to the royal presence at Kew Palace, furnished him with an ample supply of every thing fitted to make him rich and great in his native place; and Omai, on his part, felt a lively impression of duty and gratitude towards that amiable monarch. He received also rich presents from Lord Sandwich, Sir Joseph Banks, and many other respectable friends, both gentlemen and ladies. While most of these presents were of a useful description, there were others that seemed unsuitable; which were given him, because he took a fancy for them, as amusing toys. He received, among other things, a portable organ, a coat of ■ mail, a suit of armour, an electrical machine; with a rich variety of dresses and ornaments. It is much to be lamented, that during the two years which he spent in Britain, little was done to improve his understanding, or exalt his character. He became well acquainted with the amusements, the riches, the enjoyments, and the splendour of the British; but continued ignorant in a great measure of their sciences and arts, and still more of the principles of their religion. Some attempts, however, were made to instruct him. That well known philanthropist, the late Granville Sharp, Esq., became acquainted with him, and taught him the first principles of writing; and it would seem that he had previously got some instructions in reading. He made such progress in the use of 302 LIFE OF COOK. IMtiflM ■ 111 letters, that on his voyage to the South Seas, hel wrote a letter from the Cape of Good Hope to his friend Dr. Solander. Mr. Sharp endeavoured, asj far as Omai's knowledge of our language allowed, to pour the light of divine truth into his untutored mind : and it appears that this philanthropist, or some other christian friend, presented him with a large quarto English Bible, with numerous coloured engravings. This Bible, as Mr. Ellis in his Polynesian Researches observes, Vol. II, p. 97, was found by the Missionaries, many years after, in the possession of a young chief of Tahaa. His future conduct, however, shewed too clearly, that he had not imbibed the spirit of the Bible, and felt not the sacred influence of Christian principles. Omai took an affectionate leave of his London friends, and could scarcely refrain from tears, when the Captain afterwards spoke of them : but when he got on board the Resolution, his spirits soon became composed, and he felt quite happy. As two boats had been built for the Resolution at Deal, a crowd assembled there to see Omai, when the boats were taken on board; but to their great disappointment, he did not go ashore. On the 30th, the Resolution reached Plymouth, where the Discovery had arrived only three days before. Here supplies of water, wine, and fresh meat, were taken in. A fleet of 62 sail of transports, with Hessian troops for America, were in Plymouth Sound, on the 6th, under convoy of three ships of war. Our navigator could not help contrasting their object, with the peaceful and praiseworthy purpose of his own voyage; and it is gratifying to notice that, in the progress of that lamentable war, orders were issued, both by the PLYMOUTH. 303 French King, and by Dr. Benjamin Franklin, the American Ambassador at Paris, directing the Commanders of ships, of their respective countries, not to molest Capt. Cook, if they should fall in with him in the course of his voyage. It was on the 8th of July, that the Captain received his Instructions for the voyage; marking out the course he should steer, the places which he hould endeavour to visit, the objects which he should keep in view, &c.; at the same time leaving a great deal, as before, to his own judgment and discretion. The principal object to be kept in view was, of course, the discovery of a passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic, by way of Behring's Straits: and it maybe remarked, that to encourage this attempt, the Parliament had lately passed an Act, securing a reward of £20,000 to any officer and his crew who should discover this passage, by sailing from the one sea to the other. To facilitate the success of their main undertaking, Lieut. Pickersgill was sent out in the Lion brig, a few weeks before Capt. Cook sailed, with orders to protect the British whalers, and explore Baffin's Bay; and after his return, Lieut. Young was sent out to that quarter, in the same vessel, next spring, with instructions to search for a passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific ; in order, if possible, to meet Capt. Cook. These voyages led to no satisfactory result. It was at Plymouth, on the 7th of July, as noticed above, that our navigator put the finishing hand to the General Introduction to his second voyage. The publishing of his work was a subject that was now much on his mind, together with the grand object of his present voyage, as appears 304 LIFE OF COOK. from a letter which he wrote to his Ayton friend. Commodore Wilson, two days before his departure! from London. This letter, hitherto unpublished, the reader will think the more valuable, as being probably the last which he wrote to any of his friends in the north. Mile End, June 22nd, 1776. Dear Sir, I am at last upon the very point of setting out to join the Resolution at the Nore, and proceed on my voyage, the destination of which you have pretty well conjectured. If I am not so fortunate as to make my passage home by the North Pole, I hope at least to determine, whether it is practicable, or not From what we yet know, the attempt must be hazardous, and must be made with great caution. I am sorry I cannot furnish you with some New Zealand Flax seed,* having not one grain of it left. Indeed, I brought hardly one home with me, but left the most of what I had at the Cape, to try to cultivate it there; for of all that was brought home in my former voyage, I have not heard of a single grain; vegetating. It is much to be feared, that this fine plant will never be raised in England. The Journal of my late Voyage, will be publish-, ed in the course of next winter, and I am to have] the sole advantage of the sale. It will want those] flourishes which Dr. Hawkesworth gave the other, but it will be illustrated and ornamented with about sixty copper plates, which, I am of opinion, will exceed every thing that has been done in a work of this kind; as they are all of them from. Drawings made on the spot, by a very able artist. LETTER TO COMMODORE WILSON. 305 is to the Journal, it must speak for itself. I can lily say, that it is my own narrative, and as it was Iritten during the voyage. If you, or any of your bends, should want any [copies], care shall be Iken that you have of the first impressions.— ■Irs. Cook joins her best respects to you, Mrs. ■Vilson and family, with Dear Sir, Wm. Wilson, Esq. Your most obliged and Very humble servant Jams. Cook. 21 CHAPTER XVIII. Departure from Plymouth. Arrival at Teneriffe—Port Praya —Cape of Good Hope. The Discovery joins the Resolution there. Voyage to the isles discovered by Marion. Kergue- l#n's Land examined. Arrival at Van Diemen's Land. Peaceable behaviour of the natives: their manners, and habitations. Arrival at New Zealand. Intercourse with the natives. Health of the crew. Kahoora, the murderer of Mr. Rowe. Capt. Cook declines to avenge the massacre of the Adventure's people. Kahoora's boldness. Animals left. Two New Zealand youths taken on board, to accompany Omai. Mutual hostilities of the New Zealanders. Enormous lizards in the country. A ship said to have touched at it a few years before the Endeavour. On friday, July 12th, Captain Cook stood out of Plymouth Sound, and sailed down the Channel, quitting the British shores for the last time. The Discovery did not sail till the 1st of August, Capt Clerke having been unavoidably detained in London. Scarcely had the Resolution put to sea, when our navigator began to smoke the ship between decks with gunpowder, and employ other means for preventing disease, and securing the health of his crew. The process of fumigating, airing, and drying, was frequently repeated during the voyage ; and the happy result was, that when the vessel got into the tropical regions, where frequent rains and sultry weather often produce the worst effects, the Captain had fewer sick than in either of his former voyages. TENERIFJE. 307 Not having sufficient provender for the cattle on >oard, for their whole voyage to the Cape, the Captain, on thursday, August 1st, anchored in lanta Cruz road at Teneriffe, to procure supplies; fonceiving this to be a better place for refreshments than Madeira.* Several ships of different nations pere found riding at the same place of anchorage, ^he Governor received Capt. Cook and his people rith great politeness, and they not only procured bod for their cattle, but ample supplies of fruit, ive stock, and other refreshments for themselves. In making his astronomical observations here, our javigator had some friendly communications with |ie Chevalier de Borda, Commander of the French tigate La Boussole, and Mr. Varila, a Spanish entleman, who were also making observations, for iscertaining the rate of their chronometers. Our [oyagers examined the city of Laguna, as well as Banta Cruz; and some of them, particularly Mr. piderson, made short excursions into the country, b get acquainted with its scenery and productions. [Their attention was especially directed to the lelebrated Peak of Teneriffe; to the Canary birds, ^bounding in the island; to the tea shrub, said to [orrespond with that of China; and to the im- iregnated lemon, which consists of a perfect and * Forster, in his Preface, alleges that " Gapt. Cook in the Indeavour, battered the Loo-fort at Madeira, in conjunction rith an English frigate, thus resenting an affront which had een offered to the British flag." This statement, which was atly denied by those who accompanied Cook in his first voy- ge, does not receive the slightest countenance from the M.S. ournal of Sir Joseph Banks, which, through the kindness of lie Earl of Mulgrave, I have had access to consult. The only attery opened by the British was that of an electrifying ma- hine, which gave the Governor a good shock, when he was ratifying his curiosity in examining it. Had a British frigate een there, it would surely have been named in the Journals. 308 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. distinct lemon, inclosed within another. The climate of Teneriffe was found to be peculiarly temperate and healthful. Omai in his remarks on the Spanish inhabitants, observed, that they seemed less friendly than the English; and that, in their persons, they were more like his countrymen. From this island, Capt. Cook set sail, on the 4th of August; and in passing Bonavista on the 10th, the ship was so close to some sunken rocks, that she but just weathered the breakers. In the alarm occasioned by this danger, the Captain, with his usual coolness, forbore to sound; justly considering, that this might have heightened the danger, but could not possibly lessen it. In passing the Cape de Verde Islands, he took occasion to correct an assertion of Mr. Nichelson, respecting the variation of the compass here; which, if trusted to, might prove fatal to the mariner. He looked into Port Praya, in St. Jago, on the 13th; but rinding that the Discovery was not there, and having no occasion for further refreshments, he proceeded on his voyage. The heavy and frequent rains that fell soon after, enabled him to fill most of his empty casks with water. On the 1st of September, he crossed the line; and on the 8th, when he was I not far from Cape St. Augustine, on the coast of Brazil, he made some observations for ascertaining! its longitude, which he found to be 35^°, or at the! most 36° W. On friday, October 18th, the Resolution cast anchor in Table Bay. Baron Plettenberg, who I was still Governor at the Cape, received our voyagers with the same politeness as before. Tents were erected on shore, the observatory set up, and refreshments procured in abundance. On the 31st, CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 309 a dreadful storm came on, which lasted three days, and did considerable damage to the tents and observatory: the Resolution was the only ship in the bay that rode out the gale without dragging her anchors. It was not till the 10th of November^ that the Discovery arrived, the severe gale having blown her off the coast. A marine had been lost overboard; but the rest of the crew were well. Capt. Cook sent home by the Hampshire India- man, an invalid belonging to the Resolution; and he afterwards regretted that he did not send two or three more, who were unhealthy. Immediate attention was paid to the refitting of the Discovery. While the vessels were preparing for sea, a disaster happened to the sheep, which, with the other cattle, had been brought on shore to graze: some dogs broke into the sheep pen by night, close to the tents, killed four sheep out of sixteen, and dispersed the rest. To recover the lost sheep, Capt. Cook found it necessary to employ some worthless fellows, " who would, for a ducatoon, cut their master's throat, and burn the house over his head." Two fine ewes were never recovered, and one ram was found seriously injured; for which, Mr. Hemmy, the Lieut. Governor, offered to give a Spanish ram. The Captain regretted that he did not take it, as the Cape rams which he bought were of an inferior description. He added here many other articles to his live stock for the S, Sea Islands, including two horses and two mares. Some time was spent in caulking and refitting the Discovery: the Resolution was partly caulked during the voyage, as far as could be done with safety to the carpenters. During this delay, our navigator was busy in making nautical observa- 310 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. Ml tions, and recording his notices of the tides, currents, and variation of the compass ; correcting, as he carefully did, the errors of former navigatorfl Mr. Anderson also improved this leisure time, in making short excursions into the country, to examine its rocks, soils, and natural productions. His valuable remarks on these subjects, were superseded by a more ample account of this colony published by Dr. Sparrman. Before leaving the Cape, our navigators, not knowing where they could again meet with supplies, took on board such a stock of provisions as was sufficient, with what they had already, to serve them for more than two years. And now, having got their live stock and every thing else on board! both vessels weighed anchor, on Saturday, Nov. 30th ; but did not get clear of the land till tuesday, Dec. 3rd. When they were setting sail, Captain Cook gave Capt. Clerke a copy of his instructions, and directed him how to proceed in case of separation. After experiencing some rough weather, whicq carried away the mizen top-mast of the Resolution, and proved fatal to some of the goats and sheep, our navigators, on thursday, Dec. 12th, fell in withl two islands, discovered by Marion and Crozet, iaj 1772. The largest, about 15 leagues in circidM was found to be in 46° 53' S. lat, 37° 46' E. long.; the smallest, which is the most northerly, is about 9 leagues in circuit, and is in 46° 40' S. lat., 38° 8' E. long. The ships passed between them; and it was observed, that both islands are rocky, barren, and uninviting, the summits and sides of the mountains being covered with snow, whiles neither tree nor shrub could be seen on the plains; KERGUELEN'S LAND. 311 These Capt. Cook named Prince Edward's Islands; and other four, lying farther east, he called Marion's and Crozef s Islands, after the names of their discoverers. From thence he proceeded in search of Kerguelen's Land, and on the 24th, when a thick fog cleared away, he fell in with the small isles at its N.W. extremity, and soon after saw the main land. One of the isles, a high round rock, he named Bligh's Cap; and from a very imperfect notice of it obtained at Teneriffe, he rightly judged it to be Kerguelen's Isle of Rendezvous. In exploring this country, he laboured under the disadvantage of not knowing that Kerguelen had paid a second visit to this land, in 1773, and having only the chart of his discoveries in 1772. Hence he was led into some mistakes, in applying the names of places in Kerguelen's first chart, to spots which were not discovered till the voyage of 1773. Thus he supposed Cape Francois, the most northerly point of the main land, to be Kerguelen's Cape Louis. From Cape Francois, our navigator traced the coast toward the south-east; and being directed by his instructions to look out for a good harbour on this coast, he found one immediately beyond the Cape, which being entered on the 25th, was named Christmas Harbour. It abounded with streams of fresh water, and with penguins and other birds; but not a tree nor shrub was seen. Some seals were met with, which were so tame, that our mariners killed as many as they chose: a proof that these creatures were strangers to the visits of man. Yet our people were not the first visitors here: for, on friday, the 27th, which was allowed the men as a day of rest, to keep Christ- ■A S 312 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. mas, after the labours of watering, and cutting grass, one of them found a quart bottle, fastened with some wire to a projecting rock on the north side of the harbour; and in this bottle was a pieeti of parchment, with the following inscription :~ Ludovico XV Galliarum rege, et d. [domino] de Boynes regi a Secretis ad res maritimas annis 1772 et 1773. For this inscription, Captain Cook was at a loss to account, not knowing that Kerguelen had been here in 1773, and that his people had left the bottle and inscription in this harbour, which they! named Baie de V Oiseau. Our navigator wrote on the other side of the parchment; Naves Resolution et Discovery de liege Magnce Britannia, Decembris 1776. He then put it again into the bottle, with a silver! twopence of 1772, and giving the bottle a leaden cap, placed it in a pile of stones, which he erected near where it was found. The south point of the" harbour terminated in a high perforated rock. Few fish were found here, so that birds were almost the only fresh provisions to be had. On the 29th, the ships sailed out of Christmas Harbour, and proceeded along the coast in a S.E direction. Several capes and bays were discovered and named; the land was found to be much in-* dented, and towards evening, the ships, after making their way among dangerous shoals and . kerguelen's land. 313 rocks, anchored in a large harbour, which was called Port Palliser, in lat. 49° 3' S., long. 69° 37' E. The country here was, if possible, more barren and desolate than at Christmas Harbour. From hence our navigators proceeded, on monday the 30th, to the most easterly point of Kerguelen's Land, which was named Cape Digby. In an intervening bay of great extent, an immense quantity of the large sea-weed called fucus-gigan- teus was observed : some of the plants were judged to be above 60 fathoms long. Beyond Cape Digby, several other points of land were seen towards the south-west; the most distant of which was named Cape George. Towards this cape Captain Cook steered, to examine the direction of the coast beyond it y but contrary winds obliged him to desist. He was sure, however, that the land could not extend much further to the south, as the track of Capt. Furneaux, in 1773, was within 17 leagues of that cape, and yet he saw no land, although the atmosphere was clear. Kerguelen's Land was thus found to be an island of no great extent; occupying about a degree and a quarter of latitude, and less than two degrees and a half of longitude. Captain Cook would have named it the Island of Desolation, had he not been averse to rob Kerguelen of the honour of its bearing his name. Mr. Anderson paid due attention to the natural productions of the country. Its plants are few in number, not exceeding 16 or 18 species. A small plant, like a saxifrage, abounded on the sides of the hills, and gave them the appearance of a rich verdure. Two or three kinds of plants were eaten as sallad. No quadruped was seen but the ursine seal. The birds, however, were numerous; con- ! ill ! 314 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. sisting chiefly of penguins, petrels, albatrosses, ducks, shags, and gulls. Besides several small petrels, there were numbers of the largest petrdjg the size of an albatross, called by the seamen Mother Carey's Goose. These and the penguins were so tame as to be taken with the hand. From Kerguelen's Land, our navigators steered to the eastward for New Zealand. In the begin- ing of January, 1777, the weather became very hazy, yet by the frequent firing of signal guns, the vessels kept together. On the 19th, in a sudden squall of wind, the fore-top-mast of the Resolution went by the board, and carried the main-topgallant-mast with it. This occasioned some delay, as a whole day was spent in repairing the damage*: On friday, the 24th, Van Diemen's Land was discovered, near South West Cape; and passing! South Cape and Tasman's Head, the ships an-4 chored in Adventure Bay, on the 26th. Here our navigators landed, to procure wood and water, and obtain some grass for the cattle. The number^M these had diminished, several of them having died at Kerguelen's Land. The grass here was coarse, as well as scarce; but wood and water were plentifijS and many excellent fish were caught by the sein«B On tuesday, the 28th, when a party were cutting some spars, eight native men and a boy came to the spot, in a most friendly way; shewing no signs of fear, and having no weapons, except tha® one man carried a short pointed stick. They wore neither clothes nor ornaments; but their bodies were marked with tattooed lines, and their hair and faces generally smeared with red ointment. Their skin was black, and their hair woolly; but their features were not disagreeable. They seemed van diemen's land. 315 to set no value on the presents given them, and would eat neither bread nor fish, but gladly accepted some birds: it was afterwards found, that shell-fish is a principal part of their food. Capt. Cook brought two pigs ashore, to leave them in the woods to breed: the instant these came near the natives, they seized them, as a dog would have done, by the ears, and wanted to carry them off immediately, apparently with a view to kill them; which of course was prevented. The Captain making signs to the man with the stick, to know what use he made of it, the latter set up a piece of wood as a mark, and threw the stick at it repeatedly; but proved only a poor marksman. Omai, to shew the superiority of British weapons, fired his musket at it; which so alarmed them, that they ran instantly into the woods, though invited to stay, and one of them dropped an axe and two knives, that had been given him. They next visited the Discovery's watering party; and the officer, not knowing that they came peaceably, fired a musket in the air, which made them run off in terror. While they were wholly out of sight, the Captain took the young boar and sow about a mile into the woods, and left them beside a fresh water brook. He had intended to leave a young bull and cow, with some sheep and goats; but finding that the natives could understand nothing about breeding cattle, he laid aside this design; being sure that, as they must have been left in some open plain, they would soon be discovered and killed. The pigs had a better chance of escaping, being animals that are fond of the thickest cover of the woods. On the 29th, a party went to cut grass at the 111! 316 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. east point of the bay, where it was found of a good quality; while another party, which the Captain accompanied, were cutting some wood. The latter were soon visited by about twenty men and boys, who approached them without fear. One of them, who was hump-backed, amused our people by the drollery of his gestures, and the seeming humour of his speeches; though his language was quite unintelligible. Some of this party had slips of kangaroo skin tied round their ankles, and similar cords hanging loose round their necks. Several women afterwards made their appearance; and these were as naked as the men, except that they wore a kangaroo skin tied over their shoulders, and round the waist; not for a covering, but to support their children when carried on their backs. Some of them had the head completely shorn, some had it shorn on one side; while others had the upper part shorn close, a circle of hair being left all romqB as in certain orders of monks. Many of the children who accompanied them were thought pretty. Capt. Cook was informed, that some gentlemen belonging to the Discovery made improper advances to the women, offering them liberal presents ; but their offers were rejected with great disdain, and an elderly man, observing what passed, ordered all the women and children to retiJ^B In the Captain's journal, the conduct of Europeans in making such attempts on the virtue of female savages, is justly reprobated, as awakening the jealousy of the men, and exposing the party to danger, perhaps without gaining the gratification desired. He might have added, that it is grossMB immoral and indecent, utterly unbecoming those who bear the christian ntime. VAN DIEMEN S LAND. 317 The country at Adventure Bay is generally flat, and abounds with tall straight forest trees, fit for making spars, oars, and perhaps masts. A kind of opossum was the only quadruped seen ; but the kangaroo also lives in the woods. Birds are scarce and shy. The inhabitants are mild and cheerful, but possess little activity or genius. They live in very rude bark huts; and many of them, like the fauns and satyrs of ancient fable, reside in hollow trees. The trunks are hollowed out by fire to the height of six or seven feet; in the middle were hearths made of clay, for the fire; and in some of these dwellings there was room for four or five persons to sit around it. The people were obviously of the same race as those of the northern parts of New Holland. Capt. Cook, as usual, carefully surveyed the coast, and made nautical observations to ascertain its position. The only material error which he discovered in Capt. Furneaux's sketch, was in the situation of Maria's Islands. Had the weather been fine on his quitting Van Diemen's Land, he might also have corrected another mistake of Capt. Furneaux and of former navigators, by discovering that this country is separated from New Holland by a considerable strait. But a fierce storm coming on, just as the vessels left Adventure Bay, they made the best of their way to New Zealand. It was not till 1797, that the existence of Bass's Strait, was observed by a Surgeon of that name, in an open boat: and Capt. Flinders, with that gentleman, first sailed through it in 1798. Capt. Flinders had also the honour of being the first to circumnavigate New Holland, in 1802, and 1803. The storm that arose when our navigators left 318 .COOK S THIRD VOYAGE Adventure Bay, commenced with a singular change of temperature, the thermometer rising almost instantaneously, from 70° to near 90°; but this heat was of so short duration, that it seemed to he wafted away before the breeze that brought it. On the voyage to New Zealand, another marine belonging- to the Discovery fell overboard, and was lost It was on Wednesday, Feb. 12th, that the two vessels anchored in Ship Cove, and immediately, began to land their empty casks, and to set up their observatories and tents. Many of the native! came alongside in canoes, some of whom were well known to Capt. Cook; but none would ven-; ture on board; for seeing Omai, who was in the Adventure, when Mr. Rowe and his messmates were massacred and eaten, the natives were awaref that Capt. Cook knew all that had happened, and were afraid that he was come to revenge the death of his countrymen. The Captain, however, re-/ peatedly assured them of the continuance of his- friendship; and in a short time they laid aside their fear and distrust. Yet the recollection of that horrible event, and of the tragical end of Capt. Marion du Fresne and some of his men, made our people act with unusual caution, whenever a party went for wood, or water, or grass. The natives were so far encouraged by the kindness shewn them, that instead of keeping at a distance, several families, from different parts of the coast, came to take up their residence near the ships. Capt. Cook witnessed the facility with which they construct a village. Part of the materials were brought in their canoes, and the rest found on the spot. The men upon reaching the NEW ZEALAND. 319 place fixed on, began to tear up the plants and shrubs, and stick up the frame work of their huts; taking care to set up their weapons against a tree, where they could seize them at a moment's notice. While the men were raising the huts, the women had charge of the canoes, provisions, and utensils; and some of them gathered sticks, to make a fire for dressing their victuals. Above twenty huts were erected in less than an hour. In the mean time, the children, and some aged people, were kept employed by the Captain, in scrambling for beads, so long as he had any left in his pocket. When more than one tribe or family occupied a village, their districts were kept separate by low pallisades, or other modes of division. Our people derived considerable advantage from having the natives near them, particularly in securing a constant supply of fish, on easy terms; and having also abundance of celery, scurvy-grass, portable soup, and spruce-beer, brewed on the spot, there was no want of refreshments. There was not, however, any sickness to remove; for there were but two invalids in the Resolution, and none in the Discovery. The natives who visited the British from a distance, as well as those who took up their abode beside them, not only brought fish and curiosities for sale, but sought to expose their females for gain. This disgraceful trade, however, did not now succeed: the Captain was glad to find, that the men had taken a dislike to New Zealand females. This illicit commerce, he remarks, was never encouraged by him, though he sometimes could not restrain it. Some have considered such intercourse a#. promoting their security among 320 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. savages; but he always dreaded its consequences^ being sure that it betrays more men than it saves. Among their occasional visitors was the chid| Kahoora, who headed the party that killed the Adventure's people, and had himself slain Mr. Rowe. Some of his own people requested that he; might be killed, stating that he was a very bad man : but the people of one tribe had often desirfH the Captain to destroy those of another. On the 16th of February, the two Captains, and several of the officers, with Omai, visited the spot in Grass Cove, where the massacre occurred. The pla<4 and circumstances were pointed out by some of the natives, particularly their old friend Pedero, or Pedro, who met them here, and whose real nam$ was found to be Matahouah. Kahoora repeatedM visited the ship, and although Omai often desirfB that he might be killed, stating that by the laws of England a murderer must be hanged, he still persisted in visiting the Captain ; confiding in the declaration of the latter, that if the New Zealanders conducted themselves well in future, he would not revenge, at so great a distance of time, the§ inhuman treatment of his countrymen. Kahoora was one day greatly frightened, when he was questioned why he had killed Capt. Fumeaux's people: but when he was assured of safety, he j informed the Captain, that one of them had taken a stone hatchet, and would neither return it, nor | give any thing for it; upon which, the owner snatched up some bread as an equivalent; and then the quarrel began. He also stated, that & himself narrowly escaped being shot, by skulking behind the boat, while a man who stood close by him was shot dead. He then attacked Mr. Rowe, i NEW ZEALAND. 321 who defended himself with his hanger, and wounded Kahoora, but was presently overpowered by numbers. All parties concurred in asserting, that the shots fired by Lieut. Burney and his party did not take effect on a single individual. Kahoora put such confidence in the word of Capt. Cook, that on seeing a portrait of one of his countrymen hanging in the cabin, he desired to have his own portrait taken also, and sat without the least uneasiness till Mr. Webber had drawn it. It was observed that, although no pains had been taken by the natives to cultivate the gardens planted in the former voyages, so that they were over-run with weeds; yet there were potatoes, cabbages, onions, leeks, purslain, &c. found growing. Most of the animals left in the former voyage appeared to have been killed; but the poultry had been preserved, and had multiplied. The Captain had almost resolved to leave no more cattle, finding no powerful chief to take care of them. Tiratou was absent; and Tringoboohee had been killed, with 70 of his people, about five months before this. But Matahouah, and a chief named Tomatongeauooranuc, having begged some goats and hogs, the Captain gave the former two goats, a male, and a female with kid; and the latter two pigs, a boar and a sow ; under a promise that they should not be killed. Above two thirds of the inhabitants of the Sound had by this time settled near the ships. When our men were melting seal blubber, they were so fond of the train oil, as to relish the very skimmings of the kettle, and dregs of the casks. Omai had expressed a wish to take a New Zea- lander with him to his own country; and a youth 22 M COOK S THIRD VOYAGE* of 17 or 18 years of age, named Tawefiharooa, offered to accompany him, and took up his residence on board. He was the only son of a deceased chief, and it was supposed that his mother would not part with him; but when the ships were about to sail, she took an affectionate leave of him, and then parted from him, seemingly unconcerned. A lad who was to have attended him as a servant, was taken ashore by his friends; but another boy, named Kokoa, about nine or ten years old, was brought next day to supply his >lace. The father of the boy gave him up with much indifference. It was found that the New Zealanders live under perpetual apprehensions of being destroyed by each other; every tribe or family being on the watch to revenge the wrongs sustained from any other tribe, maintaining a kind of hereditary enmity, the father bequeathing to his son the task of taking vengeance on his behalf. As they roast and eat their enemies, the prospect of a good meal is often a stimulus to deeds of blood. In Mr. Andersonfs journal are many interesting notices, concerning the soil, and productions of New Zealand, and the customs, , characters, employments, manufactures, and language of the inhabitants. The two youths taken on board, informed Capt. Cook, that their country contains snakes and lizards of an enormous size; the latter jeing 8 feet long, and as thick as a man's body. They also stated, that a foreign vessel had put into a port on the N.W. coast of Teerawitte, a few years before the Endeavour, which they called Tupia's vessel, arrived in the Sound. CHAPTER XIX. Departure from New Zealand. Feelings of the two New Zealand youths. Mangeea discovered: notices of the island and its inhabitants.- Discovery of Wateeoo ; landing there; behaviour of the natives, who sought to detain the party on shore. Omai's policy. He meets three of his countrymen, driven hither by a storm some years before. Supplies got at Wenooa-ette. Hervey Island visited; notices of the inhabitants. Palmerston Island; supplies got. Komango ; trade with the natives. Arrival at Annamooka. Kindness of the natives. The chiefs Toobou and Taipa. Feenou, a great chief, introduced as King of the Friendly Isles. Great authority of the chiefs, and abject state of the lower orders. Singular method adopted for suppressing theft. Visit paid to the Hapaee Isles by Feenou's desire. Friendly reception there; public festivities, single combats; liberal presents exchanged. Marines exercised. Night exhibitions. Intended treachery, as stated by Mariner. Areekee met with. Visit of Poulaho, the real King of the Friendly Isles. Landing at Kotoo. Return to Annamooka. Feenou's true rank. Removal to Tongataboo. Meeting with Attago. Having got every thing on board, the vessels sailed from Ship Cove, on tuesday, February 25th, and having passed through Cook's Strait, proceeded on their voyage in a S.E. direction. Scarcely were they out of sight of land, when the two New Zealand youths, who were affected with sea sickness, began, in a plaintive song, to lament their home and their kindred, to which they had bid a lasting adieu. Their fits of wailing were frequently renewed for a number of days, notwithstanding all the means employed to sooth and comfort them; but their sorrows gradually subsided, and at length 324 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. they became reconciled to their lot, and attached to their new friends. On the 29th of March, our navigators discovered an island, which was found to be called Mangeea. Next day, various attempts were made to land; but the island, which was fertile and well inhabited, being surrounded by a coral reef, no good anchorage was found, nor any convenient landing place perceived. A native called Mourooa, who was understood to be the King's brother, came off in a canoe, with another man; and encouraged by Omai, who spoke to them in the Tahitian language, ventured alongside, and received some beads and nails. Captain Cook putting off in a boat for the I shore, with another boat from the Discovery, the islander stepped into his boat, and approached the land with him, where many natives, armed with long spears and clubs, were collected. Some of them swam off to the boats, and came on board them without any reserve; nay, it was difficult to keep them out, and to prevent them from pilfering. But when the boats returned towards the ships, no landing place being found, all the natives retired, except Mourooa, who accompanied Capt. Cook on board. He expressed less surprise at seeing the cattle and other strange objects in the ship, than might have been expected: which perhaps arose from his uneasiness about his personal safety. Yet as he stumbled over a goat, in coming out of the cabin, he asked Omai, what bird it was! A boat was sent to convey him near the surf, when he leaped into the sea, and swam ashore. Here his countrymen were seen crowding around him, to learn the wonders he had seen on board. When the boat had returned, our voyagers made WATEEOO. 325 sail to the northward, leaving this fine island unexamined. It is situated in lat. 21° 51' S., long. 201° 53' E;* and is full five leagues in circuit, rising into hills in the interior. The inhabitants resemble the Tahitians and Marquesans, being a stout, well made race. The men had no clothing on their body but a belt and wrapper; most of them wore a kind of turban of white cloth on their head, and sandals on their feet. They salute, like the New Zealanders, by touching noses, in addition to which, they take the hand of the stranger, and rub it upon the nose and mouth. Their island produces plantains, bread-fruit, and taro; but they have neither hogs nor dogs. In the afternoon of the 30th, our navigators left Mangeea, and next day they came in sight of another island, about the same extent, which was found to bear the name Wateeoo, situated in 20° V S. lat, 201° 45' E. long. Here, also, neither anchorage nor a good landing place could be found. On Wednesday, April 2nd, three canoes came alongside the Resolution, each containing one man; and the men, with a little persuasion, ventured on board, after an exchange of presents. These having departed, another man came in a canoe with a bunch of plantains, as a present from the principal chief of the island to Captain Cook, whom he asked for by name; having learned his name from Omai, whom he met in a boat with Lieut. Gore. The Captain gave him in return an axe, and a piece of red cloth, with which he paddled back well satisfied. A double canoe next * In this voyage, the longitude beyond 180° is not reckoned by its distance west of the meridian of Greenwich, as in Cook's former voyages ; but is counted eastward still. Mm [if 326 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. approached the ship, containing twelve men, who recited some words in concert, by way of chorus; and, having finished their chant, asked for the chief; upon which, the Captain shewing himself, was presented with a pig and some cocoa-nuts; and received also a piece of matting, after the men had come on board. The strangers gazed with surprise on the objects which were shewn them in the cabin, and other| parts of the ship. The sheep and goats they considered as some strange sorts of birds; but they could make nothing of the cows and horses, which] they durst not approach. They were dismissed with presents, but felt disappointed in not receiv^ ing a dog*; a disappointment which another partJ| experienced on board the Discovery. Next morn-; ing, other natives came in a canoe, bringing a hogy with some plantains and cocoa-nuts, and earnestly requiring a dog in return. To gratify them, Omai parted with a favourite dog which he had brought I from England. Another person on board had a pair, which might have propagated the race in the island; but lie would not dispose of them. In the forenoon, Capt. Cook sent Lieut. Gore, with two boats from the Resolution, and one from the Discovery, to endeavour to procure a supply of stems of plantain trees, as food for the cattle. When the boats approached the shore, the natives were so busy in admiring Omai's dog, round which they eagerly crowded, that for a while they paid little attention to the boats, or the company on board. Soon after, two canoes came off to take the visitors on shore. It was arranged by Lieut Gore, that Lieutenant Burney and Mr. Andersoa should go ashore in one canoe, and that he and WATEEOO. 327 Omai, after some interval, should land in another; and that, to inspire more confidence in the islanders, they should go unarmed. The natives, watching the motions of the surf, landed them safely on the reef; and leading them by the hand over the rugged coral rocks, brought them to the beach, where others presented them with green boughs, and kindly saluted them. From the beach they were conducted up an avenue of cocoa-palms, some persons having authority keeping off the crowd, by blows as well as words; and after coming to a number of men, arranged in two rows, armed with clubs which they rested on their shoulders, Messrs. Burney and Anderson were introduced to a chief, who sat on the ground cross-legged, cooling himself with a triangular fan, made from the leaf of the cocoa-palm, with a polished handle of black wood. From him they were led to a second chief, and then to a third; who, after their salutations, desired them to sit down. Each of the chiefs was sitting, fanning himself; and each was distinguished by beautiful bunches of red feathers fastened in the- ears, and pointing forward. In a few minutes after, the crowd was directed to open, and about 20 handsome young women, also adorned with red feathers, came forward and performed a dance, which they accompanied with a song, rather slow and solemn. Each dancer remained in one spot, yet their feet kept moving, while the motions of their fingers were much more rapid, and now and then accompanied with clapping of hands. When the dance was closing, a noise was heard like the galloping of horses; and this was found to proceed from an exhibition of their mode of fighting with clubs, one party pur- 328 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. HlliJ If suing another that fled. While these amusements or ceremonies were going on, Lieutenant Gore and Omai came forward, and were introduced successively to the three chiefs, to each of whom Mr. Gore gave a present. After this, he informed them of the object of his landing, Omai acting as his interpreter: the answer was, that he must wait until next day, and then he should be supplied. But delay was not the only inconvenience to which the gentlemen had to submit. They were jostled about among the crowd, who were eager tor gratify their curiosity in examining persons so new and strange to them, and contrived to separate them, so that each might have a cluster round him, and a greater number have an opportunity of viewing such wonderful beings more closely. Not content with surveying them minutely, the natives stole several articles out of their pockets, or from their persons : one of them snatched a small bayonet from Lieut. Gore's side, and Omai lost a dagger which he brought with him. Of these thefts, complaints were made to the chiefs, but no redress was obtained. The officers tried to get away to the beach, but were not permitted; so that they began to be afraid that they should be detained all night. Omai's fears went further: he saw a hole digging in the ground for an oven, and was apprehensive that they were all four to be roasted and eaten; but soon after, when he saw a pig lying at the spot, his fears of being put into the oven himself were removed. No hostility was shewn to any of them. When Mr. Anderson asked for something to eat, provision was brought him; and when he complained of the heat occasioned by the crowd, the chief himself fanned him. WAtEEOO. 329 When the natives saw their visitors uneasy, they renewed the tokens of peace, sticking green boughs before them, which they were desired to take hold of: and when they were urgent to get their business despatched, the chief sent some people to bring a few plantain trees for the cattle; but intimated that the gentlemen behoved to stay and partake of the repast prepared for them. Accordingly, the multitude making a large ring, the four strangers were seated by the second chief, Taroa, and entertained with cocoa-nuts, baked plantains, and portions of the baked hog. Omai was further treated with a drink of ava, prepared in the mode used in his own country. After this, the party were put on board their boats, by means of canoes, with some cocoa-nuts, some plantain trees, and other provisions brought to them. They were glad to get safe on board, about sun-set, after being so many hours in the midst of a crowd, consisting of not less than 2000 people. The Captain was very anxious for their arrival, and had brought the ships as near the shore as was prudent, with a view to their protection; although the occasional visits of the natives, during the day, served to convince him, that nothing hostile was intended. The party seem to have, in some degree, owed their safe return to the ships, to the ingenuity of Omai, and his strong assertions of the power of the British, and the force of their fire-arms. His statements, indeed, were much exaggerated; for he told the natives, that some of the British ships were as large as their island, and had guns that could crush their whole country at one shot; that even the guns now on board the two ships, could easily destroy the island, and kill every soul in it \ ! I fjlff 330 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. I and that, if the party were not sent safely on board that day, Captain Cook would begin to destroy them. The nearer approach of the ships to the land, in the afternoon, confirmed Omai's words; but he took a more striking method of proving his assertions; for, when the chiefs ordered the multitude to form a ring, Omai having a few cartridges in his pocket, scattered some gunpowder in the centre, and taking a piece of burning wood from the oven where the pig was roasting, set fire to the powder; when the violent explosion, with the flame and smoke, rilled the whole assembly with astonishment, and made them believe every thing he had told them. Another remarkable circumstance occurred to Omai on this occasion: he had scarcely set his foot on shore, when he recognised among the multitude three of his own countrymen; Orououte, a native of Matavai in Otaheite; Otirreroa, born at Ulietea; and Tavee, a native of Huaheine. These men, with about 17 other persons, of both sexes, had, above twelve years before, embarked in a canoe at Otaheite, to cross over to Ulietea; but a furious storm arising, drove them off the coast, anai they were carried, they knew not whither, for many days, during which, having no provisions, all of them died of hunger and thirst, except four men, whom Providence brought in a very exhausted state, to this island, where one man had since diecL The amazement of Omai, at meeting his countrymen in an island about 200 leagues from their native home; and their surprise at seeing him along with a people whose persons, and whose ships were now gazed at as the greatest wonders ever known at Wateeoo, may be better imagined than WENOOA-ETTE. 331 described. It seemed like one of the marvellous rencounters of fable, rather than an adventure of real life. Omai immediately obtained for his countrymen the offer of a passage to their native isles; but the kind treatment which they had received here, and the fresh connexions which they had formed, made them decline the offer. The almost miraculous transplantation of these Tahitians affords an interesting illustration of the manner in which the detached parts of the earth, particularly the islands of the South Sea, have been first peopled. There were females as well as males in the canoe which brought them hither; and had they been driven on an uninhabited island, before the latter perished with hunger, that island would henceforth have been furnished with inhabitants. A fact like this, is better than a thousand speculative conjectures on the peopling of our globe. The people of Wateeoo were like those of Mangeea, having their persons tattooed, and decorated with ornaments, but wearing almost no clothes. The females wore a kind of short petticoat. Their canoes were generally double; and some of them were beautifully stained with black, in squares, triangles, and other figures; excelling any thing of the kind which our navigators had yet seen. In the evening the ships left this* island, and next morning arrived at a small uninhabited island, called Wenooa-ette, about three or four leagues north of Wateeoo. Here Lieut. Gore was sent on shore with two boats, and obtained about 100 cocoa nuts for each ship, and a quantity of grass, leaves, and young branches, for the cattle. The place was found to be occasionally inhabited, and 332 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. I !.lf in one of the empty huts, a hatchet and some nails were left, as a compensation for the supplies taken away. From hence our navigator steered for Hervey's Island, discovered in his former voyage. He had supposed it to be uninhabited ; and was therefore surprised, in approaching it on the 6th, to see six or seven double canoes, containing from three to six men in each, come off from the shore. For some time they kept at a distance ; but Omai persuaded them to come alongside, yet no entreaties could induce any of them to venture on board. They were, however, remarkably daring in seizing whatever was within their reach, and struck one of the Discovery's men, who was preventing them from stealing the oars of a boat. They shewed, at the same time, a knowledge of barter, exchanging some fish for small nails, which they eagerly received, as they did also bits of paper, and other trifles, thrown to them. These people were more fierce and rugged in their aspect and disposition than those of Wateeoo, to which island they wei$| subject; having more resemblance to the New Zealanders, while they spoke a dialect that approached more to the Tahitian. They wore a piece of narrow mat round the body ; but not one of them was tattooed. They inquired, like the islanders last visited, the names of the ships, and their chief, the number of men on board, whence they came, and whither they were bound; whilw on their part, they very readily answered the questions put to them; and stated, among other things, that they had seen two great ships pass their island before; which, doubtless, were the Resolution and Adventure. PALMERSTON ISLAND. 333 When Lieut. King was sent with two boats to search for a landing place, the natives hastened to the shore; and there a crowd of people, armed with clubs and long pikes, seemed ready to oppose his landing; although some threw cocoa nuts to the seamen, and invited them to land. Their dispositions were not put to the test, for no landing place could be found. Being thus repeatedly disappointed in seeking grass, water, and other supplies, while unfavourable winds retarded his progress, Captain Cook found, that it would be impossible to do any thing this season in the high latitudes of the northern hemisphere,. from which he was still at a great distance. His first care now was to save the cattle, and husband the stores and provisions of the ships; and he bore away for the Friendly Islands, to procure supplies: but the winds failing him, he made for Palmerston Island, which was nearer; and the water being much reduced, he procured 16 gallons by the still; but soon after got a much larger supply, collected during heavy showers of rain. On monday, April 14th, the ships arrived at Palmerston Island; and on some of the islets of which it is composed, large supplies of food for the cattle were obtained, consisting of scurvy-grass, palm-cabbage, young cocoa-nut trees, and the tender branches of the wharra tree. About 1200 cocoa-nuts were also collected for the use of the crew, among whom they were equally divided. Tropic birds, boobies, and other fowls, were taken in abundance, for the people of both ships; and quantities of fine fish were caught, chiefly by Omai; who was likewise very useful, in dressing both fish and birds in a Tahitian oven, which he 334 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. constructed and used with a dexterity and good humour which did him credit. Excellent shell-fish was also to be had in plenty: so that here both man and beast fared sumptuously. Palmerston Island is composed of nine or ten low islets, occupying the prominent points of a circular reef, inclosing a lagoon in the centre, Capt. Cook makes some judicious remarks on the continued growth of such islands, not only by the labours of madrepores, or the insects forming the coral, under water; but by the accumulation of sand above the ordinary reach of the tide, the growth of plants, and the increase of vegetable mould resulting from their decay. He justly supposes, that this reef may eventually form one continuous island, and may even fill up the central lagoon.—In some parts were seen the most enchanting submarine grottoes, formed with corals, branching in great luxuriance, and richly diversified in their shapes and colours; while the shells with which they were copiously bespangled, an4 the beautiful fishes that gently glided along their surface, added much to the grandeur of the scene. On thursday, the 17th, the ships proceeded to the westward, for Annamooka, and passing Savage Island in the night of the 24th, came in sight of the isles that lie east of Annamooka, on the 28th. On this voyage, some heavy showers furnished a copious supply of fresh water; and the Captain finding that more could be got in an hour by the rain, than could be procured by distillation in a month, laid aside the still, as a thing attended with more trouble than profit. It is observable, that although the frequent rains and intense heat between the tropics, are often injurious to health, ANNAMOOKA. 335 there was not a single person on board now sick, either from the constant use of salt food, or the change of climate. The ships having cast anchor near the small island Komango, some of the natives came off in canoes, and bartered cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, plantains, and sugar-canes, for nails. Next day, canoes came from different islands, bringing fruit, roots, pigeons and other fowls, together with two pigs; for which they received hatchets, beads, and nails. Curiosities, such as clubs, bows, and musical reeds, were also brought for sale; but Capt. Cook gave ' orders, that no curiosities should be purchased, till the ships should be well supplied with provisions; and at the same time issued salutary regulations for conducting the trade with the natives. Lieut. King being sent to Komango for provisions, returned with seven hogs, some fowls, a quantity of fruit and roots, together with some grass for the cattle. He brought on board Tooboulangee, the chief of the island, and another chief named Taipa, who brought a hog as a present, and promised more next day; a promise which they faithfully performed. It was observable, that the natives who traded on this and the following day, would hardly dispose of an article to any one but Capt. / Cook, in whose goodness and justice they placed the fullest confidence. After some time spent in seeking a better harbour, the ships were brought to an anchor at Annamooka, on thursday, May 1st, in the same spot which the Resolution occupied three years before, and in which Tasman anchored in 1643. Here both the Captains went on shore next day, with several of the officers; the observatories were set 336 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. » If up, by "permission of the natives, who also allowed a boat-house to be used as a tent. Toobou, the chief of the island, conducted Captain Cook and Omai to his house, situated on a pleasant spot, in the centre of his plantation. A fine grass-plot surrounded it, where, as he intimated, those who went in might wipe their feet; and it certainly had a most cleanly appearance, the floor being covered with mats, as neat and elegant as the carpet of an English drawing-room. Taipa, who attached himself firmly to the Captain, had a house brought on men's shoulders, a full quarter of a mile, and [placed close to the tent. Next day, he harangued the natives at some length; instructing them how to behave to our people, and encouraging them to bring their produce to market; and his eloquence had a happy effect in increasing the supplies of food. In the mean time, the crews-of both ships were busily employed : the horses and the weakly part of the cattle were taken on shore; some were employed in making hay for them; some in* filling the water casks at a neighbouring pool, and othey3| in cutting wood. The latter cut some faitanoo trees that yielded a milky juice, so corrosive as to blister their skin, and injure their eyes; but thefll found plenty of more suitable wood in another spot. On tuesday, May 6th, Feenou, a great chief from Tongataboo, visited the place, and was falsely represented by Taipa as King of all the Friendly Isles, who had come hither to see the British. The natives paid their obeisance to him, by bowing their heads as low as his feet, the soles of which they touched with each hand, first with the ANNAMOOKA. 337 palm, and then with the back part. He sent j a present of two fish on board, by one of his servants; and Capt. Cook landed to pay his respects to him. Finding that this was not the Areekee whom he formerly saw at Tongataboo, but a tall thin person, about thirty years old, with features of a European cast, the Captain asked if he was the King; and Taipa answered for him, enumerating 153 islands under his sway. He accompanied the Captain on board,.with five or six attendants; and having received kind entertainment and valuable presents, he sent three hogs on board in the evening. From this time he dined on board daily; and Captain Cook was glad to have his company, as none but Taipa was allowed to sit at meat with him, or eat in his presence; whereas, before his arrival, the Captain's table overflowed with natives, both men and women; the females here not being denied, as at Otaheite, the privilege of eating with the men. One day, his servants brought on board for him, a mess of fish soup prepared with cocoa-nut liquor; a dish which the Captain also tasted, and found to be very palatable. The despotic power of the chiefs over the common people, in the Friendly Isles, was often displayed. An axe which had been stolen out of the Resolutibn on her arrival, was on the Captain's application to Feenou speedily recovered, his command to that effect being implicitly obeyed. An inferior chief, while Feenou was on board, ordered the people away from the tent; and some of them venturing to return, he beat them unmercifully with a large stick. One man was so cruelly abused that he was carried off for dead, though he afterwards recovered; and when the chief was told 23 1 338 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. that he had killed him, instead of being sorry, he only laughed at it. In one instance only, a chief was caught pilfering; and Capt. Cook ordered him a dozen lashes, and made him pay a hog besides. After this, the chiefs never stole any thing themselves, but employed their servants, or slaves^ !■ steal for them; and so little value did they put on the lives of the latter, that when any of them were caught in the act, instead of interceding for them, they often desired our people to kill them. The poor wretches were so inured to hard usage, that a flogging seemed to make no more impression on them, than it would have made on the main-mast Captain Clerke hit upon a less cruel, but more effective, plan for checking their depredations; every culprit that was taken had his head completely shaved by the barber, and was thus not only made an object of ridicule, but a marked man; care being taken, that all who had received the tonsure should be kept at a distance. Finding that the supplies here began to be exhausted, Capt. Cook got every thing on board, with a view to proceed to Tongataboo; but Feenou, apprized of his design, and perhaps dreading that his own pretensions to royalty would in that case be quickly at an end, strongly urged him to prefer the Hapaee isles, a group lying to the northeast ; and our navigator yielded to his importunity. Some time was lost in recovering the Discovery's anchors, the cables having been cut by the coral rocks; but at last, on Wednesday,. May 14th, the ships left Annamooka. Between this island and Hapaee, the sea is sprinkled with a multitude of small isles; and, to avoid the risk of passing through the midst of them, Captain Cook took a SAL HAPAEE. 339 N.W. course, in order to go round them. In the afternoon he passed Kotoo, the most westerly of the group; and was then near the high islands Oghao, or Kao, and Amattafoa, or Toofoa, seen in his former voyage: the smoke of the volcano on the latter was now distinctly observed, and when night came on, it was seen to emit flames. The natives regard it as the seat of some deity. The groups of islands passed in this voyage sometimes presented a most enchanting appearance, each being clothed with cocoa palms and other rich trees, like a lovely garden placed in the sea; while the beauty of the whole, heightened by the serenity of the weather, seemed to realize the idea of some fairy land. A few of the isles appeared to have but recently emerged from the sea; one being seen altogether destitute of vegetation, and another that bore only a single tree. After passing Hafaiva, Footooha, and other isles known by name, our navigators, on Saturday, the 17th, anchored at the Hapaee group ; which was found to consist of four isles, Haanno, Foa, Lefooga, and Hoolaiva, connected by reefs. Feenou, who had accompanied his new friends on this voyage, sometimes on board the Resolution, and sometimes in his own canoe, procured them a welcome reception at Lefooga, where they first landed. A large assembly was held on the shore; Feenou, with Capt. Cook and Omai, sat in a house placed there on purpose, while the multitude sat in a circle in front of them; Taipa, by Feenou's direction, harangued the people, on the subject of trading honestly with their visitors, and treating them kindly; and Earoupa, chief of the island, did the same. The Captain gave liberal presents to m 340 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. the chiefs, and Feenou pretended to be displeased at his giving so much. Large supplies were now brought to the ships, an extensive trade in provisions being carried on. Next day, another large assembly was held in the same spot, where no less than 3000 natives m4| to honour the Captain and his friends. When he had sat down with Feenou as before, about 100 men advanced with quantities of fruits, and some pigs, fowls, and turtles; all of which were depo^H ed in two heaps. The multitude formed a large circle without; and into this circle several men entered, armed with clubs, and entertained the company with a succession of single combats. At the close of each, the victor squatted himself down facing the chief, then rose up, and retired; while some old men, sitting as judges, gave their plaudits, which were re-echoed by the multitude in loud huzzas. At intervals, there were wrestling and boxing matches; in which last some females engaged, which drew marks of disapprobation from the British. These games being finished, Feenou told Capt. Cook, that the largest of the heaps of provisions was a present to him, and the smallest a present to Omai; who had become the chiefs peculiar friend and constant attendant. He added, that no guard was required to protect the presents, for the natives would not touch a single nut. They were accordingly left behind, while Feenou I went on board with the Captain to dinner: and when taken on board in the afternoon, not an article was missing, and the whole filled no less than four boats, being the most munificent gift of the kind which our navigator had ever received. He took care to give the generous donor some HAPAEE. 341 valuable presents in return, with which Feenou was so well pleased, that as soon as he got on shore, he sent a fresh donation of hogs, cloth, and yams. On tuesday, the 20th, another great assembly was held, when the marines from both ships, by Feenou's desire, went through their exercise, and fired several vollies. The natives, in return, entertained their visitors with a grand dance, performed by 105 men, each flourishing in his hand a neat instrument, like a short paddle, changing their attitudes and places with great agility and exactness, and forming themselves into lines, semicircles, and square columns, with a dexterity far surpassing the military manoeuvres of the marines. The whole performance, which was accompanied with music, both vocal and instrumental, was so admirably executed, as to strike the British with surprise. When it was dark, the natives were again astonished and delighted, in their turn, by a display of fire works, which their visitors exhibited. Yet, as if resolved not to be outdone by the British, the natives immediately after, engaged in a succession of night dances, some performed by women, and some by men, who made their evolutions in lines, circles, semi-circles, &c, while a band of music, or chorus, was stationed in the centre. The dances, the music, the recitatives, and responses, afforded such a varied display of skill, agility, melodious tones, expressive gestures, and graceful action, as could not fail to command the admiration of the spectators. The dances were performed in an open space among the trees, just by the sea, with lights, at small intervals, placed **lind the inside of the circle. It is painful to think, that amidst this profusion £43 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. of entertainments furnished to their British guests, a diabolical plot was laid by some of the native chiefs, to fall upon them suddenly, and massacre them all, with a view to get possession of the ships, and all their valuable contents. That such a plot was devised, and was only prevented from being carried into effect, through a difference of opinion among the chiefs, as to the proper time for giving the signal, and making the attack, is strongly asserted in Mariner's Account of the Tonga Islands, Vol. II. p. 64, &c. There are many statements in that book glaringly incorrect, such as the account of the murder of the Missionaries. Indeed, it sets out with a notorious blunder in the very dedication, which states that Sir Joseph Banks visited the Tonga Islands with Captain Cook. There is something in Mariner's account of the plot, not consistent with Cook's narrative; particularly in speaking of another grand entertainment by day, succeeding the great night dance, of which entertainment Cook makes no mention: yet as Mariner was informed of this plot by several chiefs who were concerned in it, and by a son of Fee-1 nou himself; and as it is known, that the same treacherous designs were formed against other ships that afterwards visited these islands, and too often were carried into effect, as in the case of the Port au Prince, Mariner's own ship, which was seized by the natives at this same island Lefboga,| there is reason to believe that such a plot was conceived and proposed. From the duplicity with which Feenou acted in some other matters, we may conceive him capable of such villany; although he is not said to have been the contriver of the plot, but only to have fallen in with it, when proposed 'HAPAEE. 343 by others. However far the design was carried, a gracious Providence prevented its execution. On Wednesday, the 21st, Capt. Cook took a walk into the country, where he saw plantations larger, and better managed, than in Annamooka. Returning on board to dinner, he found a large canoe fast to the ship's stern, in which was no less a personage than the grave and stupid Areekee, seen in the former voyage at Tongataboo, and known by the name Latooliboula, or as some write it, Latoo Libooloo. He maintained the same gravity and taciturnity as before, and could not be persuaded to go on board. Feenou was in the ship at the time, yet the two chiefs took no notice of each other. It is now known, that Latoo Libooloo, who was weak in intellect, was not actually King, but obtained the title and honours of royalty on account of his high birth, as the natives here pay great deference to distinctions of rank and blood. When our navigator was about to unmoor, on the 23rd, to proceed to Tongataboo, Feenou and Taipa came alongside in a canoe, stating that they were going to Vavaoo, to get further supplies for him, and begging him to wait their return. He immediately proposed to proceed thither with the ships, to examine Vavaoo, an object that was highly desirable, as the large and interesting cluster of islands so named, had not hitherto been explored by any European; but Feenou not wishing, in this instance, to have the ships with him, dissuaded him from his purpose, by falsely affirming, that there was neither harbour nor anchorage there. After he was gone, the sHapaee people spread a false report, that a large ship had arrived at Annamooka, perhaps wishing to get rid of their visitors, Ill COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. now that their provisions were much exhausted, On monday, May 26th, the ships were moved into a bay on the north side of Hoolaiva. Next day a sailing canoe arrived, on board of which was Poulaho, the real King of the Friendly Isles. On the Captain's invitation, he came on board the Resolution, bringing with him two good fat hogs; though not so fat as himself. His attendants objected to his entering the cabin, lest any one should walkover his head; but the objection was obviated by the Captain's giving orders, that no one, during his stay, should walk over the cabin. He examined every thing attentively, and put various questions to the Captain, with whom he sat down to dinner. After receiving some presents, with which he was J well pleased, he went on shore, accompanied by Captain Cook; with whom he seated himself in a small house near the shore, while the natives sat in a semi-circle in front of the house. The various articles which his people had got by trading with the ships, were now produced; the owners first squatting themselves down before him, and then depositing their purchases, and retiring. He was pleased with their bargains, and ordered every thing to be returned to them, except a glass bowl, which he reserved for himself. His attendants did obeisance by touching his feet, and great decorum was observed in his presence. He gave the Captain some more hogs, and presented him with a cap, or bonnet, covered with red feathers; an articlel so scarce and valuable, that none else obtained one here, except Capt. Clerke and Omai. The ships sailed on the 29th for Annamooka, accompanied by the King and other chiefs; but the weather, growing stormy on the 31st, they ANNAMOOKA* 345 narrowly escaped being wrecked on a sandy isle between Footooha and Kotoo; at which last, the King and his suite, who were frightened at the danger incurred, were put on shore. Capt. Cook also landed to examine the isle; which he found tolerably well cultivated, but thinly peopled. On thursday, the 5th of June, the ships anchored at Annamooka, Next day, Feenou arrived from Vavaoo. He pretended, that several canoes were coming laden with hogs and other provisions, but had been lost in the stormy weather; a tale to which Capt. Cook, who was now acquainted with his character, gave no credit. Next day, Poulaho and his attendants arrived, when Feenou was content to take his station among the latter; and when the King came on board to dine, Feenou could not sit at meat with him, but after making obeisance in the usual way, by saluting his sovereign's foot with his head and hands, retired out of the cabin. Omai, who had attached himself to Feenou, and exchanged names with him, was much disappointed when another King made his appearance, and at first refused to acknowledge Poulaho; but now he was fully satisfied as to the rank of his friend. Yet Feenou was a chief of high rank, and great power, being the brother of Poulaho's Queen, and holding an important place under him. Captain Cook considered him as Commander in chief of the forces, and head officer of police; Veeson's Narrative makes him chief of Eooa ; and Mariner calls him tributary chief of Hapaee; which last is perhaps his most correct designation. We learn from the Missionary Transactions, Veeson's Narrative, and Mariner's Account, that his family, not many years after this, attained those royal honours 346 THIRD VOYAGE. to which he now made pretensions. On the death of Poulaho, whose son Futtafaihe (the family name) was left a minor, his widow took possession of the government; but was speedily dispossessed by Toogahowe, a nephew of Feenou, who got his father Moomooe, Feenou's brother, appointed sovereign chief, or Dugonagaboola. When Moomooe died, April 29th, 1797, Toogahowe succeeded him; and Feenou died a few weeks after, his death being said to have been hastened by his disappointment, in not succeeding to the sovereignty himself. In April, 1799, his two sons, Feenou and Toobo Neu<- ha, murdered their cousin, the Dugonagaboola; and after a series of bloody wars and horrid crimes, this second Feenou secured to himself the sovereign power, over the Hapaee and Vavaoo isles; while Tongataboo, no longer the chief seat of government, was desolated by his frequent invasions, and its own internal wars. At his death, in 1810, he was succeeded by his son, another Feenou, whom Mariner considered as a prince of very superior intellect and character. Some of the Feenous bore the surname Loogolala. When the Resolution and Discovery sailed from Annamooka to Tongataboo, on the 8th of June, Poulaho and Fenou also proceeded thither in their respective canoes. In approaching Tongataboo, both ships struck on some coral rocks; but got into safe anchorage in the evening of the 9th. Among many natives who visited them next morning, was Captain Cook's good friend Attago, or Otago, who brought him a hog, and some yams: Toobou, the friend of Capt Furneaux, presented a similar token of regard; and the Captain made suitable returns to both. CHAPTER XX. tonfl reception at Tongataboo. The King's son and other chiefs introduced. Grand entertainment, with dances, and other festivities, given by Mareewagee. Poulaho's grand entertainment and exhibition. Solemnity of the natche, in honour of the prince. Mourning ceremonies. Cruel rites. Tyranny of the chiefs. Seeds sown, and cattle left here. Singular uses of Poulaho's wooden bowl. Eclipse observed. Arrival at Eooa. Beauty of the island. Cattle left, and seeds sown. Taoefa's entertainment, interrupted by an outrage committed by some natives. General observations on the Friendly Isles, and other islands adjacent. Toobouai discovered. Arrival at Oaitipiha Bay, in Otaheite. Omai's reception, and imprudence. Visit to Otaheite by Spanish ships. Pretended god of Bolabola. Another Waheatua, King of Tiarabu. Arrival at Matavai. Friendly meeting With Otoo, and his people; and with'Oedidee. Cattle ana fowls landed. Garden planted. War with Eimeo. Human sacrifices offered, with much ceremony. Conference with Towha. Feasts and amusements. Presents. Naval warfare of the Tahitians. Peace with Eimeo ; solemnities on the occasion. Omai's behaviour. Otoo's present to King George. Good treatment experienced at Otaheite. Captain Cook having landed, on the 10th, with Omai and some of the officers, found the King waiting for them on the beach. He conducted them to a neat house, within the skirts of the wood, with a large area before it; and desired them to occupy it during their stay. Here, amidst a large circle of natives, who sat quietly on the area, a bowl of kava was prepared, and a baked hog, and two baskets of baked yams, were brought forward, for the entertainment of *the King, his guests, and attendants. Most of the Miliar, not 348 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. being allowed to eat and drink in his presence, retired with their portions out of the circle. Every thing was conducted with the greatest decorum. Adjoining to this house, a tent and observatory were erected next day, the cattle were brought on shore, and a guard of marines stationed here; arrangements were made for procuring wood and water, and repairing the sails : and to superintend all these affairs, as well as to conduct the nautical observations, Lieut. King took up his residence on shore. On the 13th, the Captain and his friends were introduced to two chiefs of rank, who were brothers, named Toobou and Mareewagee. The latter was the Queen's father: Feenou, and another chief called Tooboueitoa, were his sons. Young Futta- faihe, the King's son, was also introduced to the strangers. An exchange of presents took place at every new introduction, and at successive visits of the same chiefs. The introductions on shore generally took place under a canopy, or under the shade of a tree, where the chief was seated, with his presents of cloth or provisions for the visistors, spread before him. Poulaho frequently dined on board, where he enjoyed his bottle of wine with the officers. He was found to be a very convenient guest, as no one of the natives presumed to sit I down at meat with him; whereas, in his absence, the table was often much crowded. His son, who often came on board, received the same homage from Mareewagee and other chiefs, as was paid to Poulaho himself. In some of the visits paid to the ships, the chiefs would taste nothing, alleging that they were taboo, that is, under some religious or superstitious restriction. TONGATABOO. 349 In the visits paid by our navigators to the chiefs on shore, they were sometimes entertained with dances, songs, instrumental music, and single combats, similar to what Feenou furnished at Hapaee. One of these grand festivals was given on the 17th, by Mareewagee; who, at the same time, presented two large heaps of provisions, one for each Captain. The dances, which were much diversified, were kept up from eleven o'clock, till near three. At different intervals between the dances, champions entered the ring, brandishing their clubs. Feenou, Mareewagee, and old Futtafaihe, the King's brother, beat some of the drums, and took part in the dances. Above 4000 people were computed to be present, besides about as many more collected at the trading place, or straggling about the neighbourhood. Brilliant night dances, like those at Hapaee, succeeded the amusements of the day, and were kept up for nearly three hours. Next day, the Captain gave Mareewagee liberal presents, in return for his donations; and entertained him and his friends, including Poulaho and the principal chiefs, by making the marines go through their exercise, and exhibiting a display of fire-works in the evening. Before the latter commenced, the natives went through their exercise also, in various boxing and wrestling matches, conducted with much spirit, and at the same time with good Irumour. On the 21st, Poulaho gave his grand entertainment ; at the commencement of which, he raised two immense piles of provisions, supported by posts 30 feet high, being resolved to exceed the Hberality of Feenou at Hapaee. The sports were of the same kind as before, concluding with night COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. dances,, in which Poulaho himself took a part Capt. Cook dined on shore that day, to see the whole exhibition; and had at his table a lady of high rank, sisterto the grave Areekee, Latooliboula; and Poulaho could neither eat nor drink in her presence, but did obeisance to her as his superior, while her attendants did obeisance to him. She and her brother, with another sister, were children of the elder sister of Poulaho's father, by a Feejee chief. A little before their departure, our navigators had an opportunity of witnessing a grand solemnity called natche, performed in honour of the King's son, a boy about twelve years old, on occasion of his being admitted for the first time to the privilege of eating with his father. The ceremonies, which lasted two days, began at a kind of palace, called a malaee (or marly, as Mariner writes it), being a great house with an extensive grass-plot before ™| Here a crowd assembled, some armed, and others bearing yams, &c.; solemn sentences were recited, or chanted; the King and prince having arrived, seated themselves in the area, with several friends^ while the bearers of the yams, and others, to the number of 250, made a procession to ^fiatooka (or morai), of one house standing upon a mount; and after depositing part of their load, proceeded to another fiatooka of three houses. At these places I of worship and of burial, belonging to the royal \ family, various ceremonies were performed, and I some orations, or prayers, were uttered, At one of them, a shed was erected for the prince, and his father sat near him: and after some females had wrapped narrow pieces of white cloth round him, and other honours done him, a grand procession i TONGATABOO. 351 came from the other morai, as of persons bearing tribute, who deposited their pretended burdens before the prince, while they prostrated themselves on the grass. Instead of real yams, &c. they brought only artificial representations of them. Capt Cook and his friends were not allowed to be present at the fiatooka; but they witnessed the ceremonies there, by peeping through the fence of the King's plantation. Eager to observe also the proceedings of next day, the Captain and two or three of the officers, spent the night with the King, who supped with them, and partook freely of their brandy and water. Early in the morning, one of his female attendants tapped, or beat gently, on his thighs, with her clenched fists, a process which was found to be used for promoting sleep. The prince slept at another house, where the Captain and Omai found him in the morning, with a circle of boys sitting before him. The Captain presented him with cloth, beads, and other ornaments , with which he was forthwith arrayed, and was very proud of his new dress. The chiefs, according to their usual practice, spent a good part of the morning in preparing and drinking kava; after which His Majesty had another nap, the process of tapping being performed on him by two women. When it was past noon, Captain Cook, who had walked about, visiting different chiefs, aroused the drowsy monarch to dinner, of which he partook heartily. In the afternoon the ceremonies were resumed, and the Captain, resolving, if possible, to be present, walked towards the morai, although he was several times desired to go back. After he had sat down in the midst of the company, he was repeatedly ordered to depart; but the natives at last •4Bto THIRD VOYAGE. consented to his remaining, on condition of his uncovering his shoulders, as they did ; and Omai, who had got into another part of the crowd, was permitted to be present on the same terms. Yet, in some parts of the solemnity, they were not allowed to look around them, but were forced to sit with downcast looks, and demure as maids. During the assembling of the crowd, several short addresses were given, some of which produced laughter, and others applause; but after the arri^M of the royal party, order and solemnity were observed. The prince was placed under the shed, | where two men put pieces of mat about him, and ja&erwards uttered a short speech or prayer: companies moved backward and forward across the area, as was done the day before; and three differjjj ent processions arrived, bearing tribute; the first with cocoa-nut leaves, to represent cocoa-nuts; the second with empty baskets, to represent baskets of plantains or other fruits; and the third with small! fishes, the only real tribute presented, each fixed at the end of a forked stick. The whole were received, with much ceremony, by men who sat on the right and left of the prince; and the fishes^ were snatched at by a person sitting behind, and when the latter, with some difficulty, succeeded in snatching a whole fish, the crowd around muttered I mareeai—"well done", upon which he desisted J from grasping at any more. After some speaking,! or praying, the whole company started up, at a given signal, except the royal party, and retiring^ some paces, sat down with their backs to the prince The Captain was forbidden to look behind; yet he ventured to transgress, and saw that the prince had turned his face towards the morai. He could TONGATABOO. 353 not see what he was doing; but afterwards learned, that at this moment he was admitted to the high honour of eating with his father, a piece of roasted yam being presented to each of them for this purpose. A little time after, the company faced about, and formed a circle in front of the prince; several champions entered the area, wrestling and boxing matches were kept up for about half an hour; two men, sitting before the prince, then delivered addresses, with which the solemnity ended, and the assembly broke up. The fiatookas where these ceremonies were performed, had both been previously examined, by the Captain and Mr. Anderson. At one of them were two rude wooden busts, said to be memorials of departed chiefs. Near them were numbers of etoa trees, to some of which clung many large ternate bats : one of this kind measured nearly three feet, when the wings were extended. Some mourning ceremonies, performed at the fiatookas, by Poulaho and others, on account of relations some time dead, were witnessed. Each mourner put a piece of old mat over his dress, and a small green bough about his neck; and having thrown this down, seated himself before the house, and gave his cheeks a few gentle strokes with the fist. When the death is recent, the blows are often given with such violence as to make the blood flow : hence several persons were seen with scars below their eyes. Poulaho's mourning ended with drinking a bowl of kava. Had our navigators remained a day longer at Tongataboo, they might have witnessed a funeral ceremony; as the wife of Mareewagee died before the natche, and was to be interred on the day after. 24 **#» COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. The Captain was also informed, that in about three months, the final celebration of the naiche would take place on a far grander scale; when tribute would be brought from Hapaee, Vavaoo, and the rest of the islands; and ten human victims, of the lower orders, would be sacrificed! Many other illustrations of the despotic power and cruelty of the chiefs] and the abject slavery of the common people, were observed. When a canoe was wanted for any service, the chiefs seized on the first they met with; quantities of fish were taken out of canoes,-$without giving the owners any compensation ; and the interdict of the great chiefs was found effectual in preventing theft, when they chose to issue their mandate to that effect, and was equally available for recovering what had been stolen* Hence, although pilfering was not uncommon, there were few things of value stolen that were not recovered. Strong measures, however, were sometimes required for that purpose. When part of the live stock was stolen,£the Captain put Poulaho, Feenou, and other chiefs under arre&$; till this, and otker property previously taken, were restored. In one instance only was a thief wounded by a musket shote$ and it was a source of great satisfaction to our navigators, that no lives were lost during their stay; In thisisle, as in most of the inhabited isles which he visited, Capt. Cook sowed a quantity-of useful garden seeds. The dogs left here in the former voyage, were found to have lived and multiplied, and more had since been imported from the Feejee Islands. To benefit the country further, he now gave to Poulaho, a young English bull a&& cow* with"a he-goat and two she-goats-; and to Feenou, TONGATABOO. 355 a horse and a mare; besides a couple of rabbits, which produced young before the ships sailed. A young boar and three young sows, of the English breed, were also left here. A cape ram and two ewes were set apart for Mareewagee; but as he paid no attention to them, they were taken on board, and afterwards left at Eooa. The chiefs were informed, through Omai, of the great value of these animals, the trouble and expense of bringing them such a distance, the importance of refraining from killing them till they were. multiplied, and the duty of remembering that they were indebted for them to the English nation. Among the numerous presents made to Poulaho, was a pewter plate, which he purposed to apply to very singular uses. When he had occasion to visit any other island, he left something to represent him at Tongataboo, to which the people paid the same obeisance as to himself; and whereas this honour had hitherto been conferred on a wooden bowl in which he washed his hands, he would now put the pewter plate in its stead. The bowl had likewise been employed to detect theft, by a curious sort of ordeal. When any thing was stolen, and the thief not discovered, an assembly was held, at which the King washed his hands in water in this vessel; and after it was cleaned, the whole multitude came forward, one by one, to do obeisance to it, as they did usually to his feet. If the guilty person presumed to touch it, he was expected to die immediately by the hand of Providence; so that the individual who refused to touch it, through fear of instant death, was known to be the thief. In this important service also, the plate was to be substituted for the wooden bowl. 356 COOKS THIRD VOYAGJE. HI Many excursions were made into the country by Mr. Anderson and others, and much valuable information obtained, concerning the natural productions of the island. The Captain, as usual, paid much attention to the survey of the coast, and of the adjacent isles. On Saturday, the 5th of July, an eclipse of the sun occurred, but the weather being cloudy, it was observed imperfectly. The latitude of the place was found, by other observations, to be 21° 8' 19" S., its longitude, 184° 55' 18" E. In the morning of thursday, the 10th, the day after the natche, the ships set sail from Tongataboo; but they did not get clear of the island till next day, and on the 12th, they anchored at Eooa, in English Road. Here Taoofa, the chief, the Captain's Tayo in his former voyage (then named Tioony), received him and his friends joyfully; a friendly trade was carried on with the people, and the chief was proud to accept of the ram and ewes, which Mareewagee had slighted. This island being much higher than those last visited, presents more delightful landscapes; and a party who ascended the hills, on the 13th, enjoyed" its beautiful scenery. The feelings expressed by the Captain, on looking down from an eminence on the lovely plains, meadows, and groves below, illustrate the benevolence of his heart. " While I was surveying this delightful prospect, I could not help flattering myself with the pleasing idea;! that some future navigator may, from the same station, behold these meadows stocked with cattle, brought to these islands by the ships of England; and that the completion of this single benevolent purpose, independently of all other considerations, E00A. 357 would sufficiently mark to posterity, that our voyages had not been useless to the general interests of humanity." Next day, he planted a pine-apple, and sowed various seeds, in the chief's plantation ; and had the pleasure of enjoying at dinner a dish of turnips, from seed sown in his last voyage. On the 16th, Taoofa honoured his visitors, in the same way as Feenou and Poulaho had done, but on a smaller scale. Two piles of provisions were deposited, a public assembly was held, and single combats were exhibited. The night dance which should have followed, was prevented by an unexpected occurrence. One of our people taking a short walk by himself, was surrounded, knocked down, and stripped, by 20 or 30 natives: and the Captain, when informed of this outrage, immediately seized two canoes and a large hog, and insisted on Taoofa's getting the clothes restored, and the offenders delivered up to be punished. One of the culprits was presently secured, and part of the clothes restored: the rest were brought next morning, though torn and useless; upon which Capt. Cook released the canoes and the criminal, and paid for the hog. He also gave Taoofa a present, which pleased him greatly, and which he shared with three or four other chiefs; one of whom told the donor that they did not deserve it, considering how ill they had used one of his people, and how little they had given him. A present of iron was also sent to Poulaho, by one of his servants, as a parting mark of regard. The ships had scarcely left their anchorage, j when a canoe arrived from that monarch, begging ' that our people would remain at Eooa, as he and other chiefs were coming to visit them there in two 358 COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. days, to supply them with more provisions. A small canoe came off to them with the message; but as the ships had got clear of the land, and were furnished with abundant supplies, Captain Caok resolved to proceed on his voyage. The natives came off and traded with our people, as long as the ships were within reach. The land at Eooa is, for the most part, the property of the great chiefs of Tongataboo; the inhabitants being their tenants or vassals. Feenou offered to make Omai the chief of this island, if he would stay there; but Capt. Cook disapproved of the measure.—During the.jstay of our people here, they witnessed the infliction of a severe punishment on a native who had been detected in criminal intercourse with the wife of a person of higher rank. His head was dreadfully cut, and his thigh broken, with a club; and he was carried into a house, almost lifeless. During his stay at the friendly Isles, which lasted between two and three months, our navigator, assisted by Mr. Anderson and other officers, collected much important information, concerning the islands and their inhabitants; the persons, character, dress, and manners of the people; their manufactures and employments, their amusements and ceremonies, their religion and language. His estimate of their character is far too high : he witnessed but little of their treachery and cruelty, and his own kind and open disposition led him to view their actions in the most favourable light. In statl ing the number of islands dependant on Tongata-1 boo at 150, or more, he does not exaggerate: it is now known, that the Vavaoo group alone, consists of about 100, the largest of which, bearing the OTAHEITE.—OAITIPIHA. 359 name Vavaoo in its more restricted application, is about half the size of Tongataboo. In noticing the Hamoa and Feejee Islands, he correctly states, that the inhabitants of the latter, some of whom he saw at Tongataboo, are cannibals. It is melancholy to add, that in some of the civil wars that raged here after the assassination of Toogahowe, the horrid practice of cannibalism was adopted, both by Feenou's party, and by their opponents. Departing from Eooa, on thursday, July 17th, our navigators proceeded to the eastward. On the 21st, they observed an eclipse of the moon; and on the 29th, they encountered a heavy squall, during which the Discovery lost her main-top-mast. On friday, August 8th, they saw land, which was found next day to be a small island of considerable height, called Toobouai, in lat. 23° 25' S., long. 210° 37' E. Some natives came off in canoes, and pointed to the shore, which was considered as an invitation to land. They declined Omai's urgent request to come alongside, and the Captain, having a fait wind, declined their invitation. One of them was blowing a conch*shell. They had no covering but a belt and wrapper; but several persons on the shore were clothed in white. On the 12th, Maitea was seen, and soon after Otaheite; where the ships arrived off Oaitipha Bay, in which they anchored next morning.- As the dips approached the land, several natives came off in canoes; among others, a chief named Ootee, Omai's brother-in-law, who shewed great indifference in meeting with him, till Omai took him down into the cabin, and opening the drawer in which bis red feathers were kept, gave him a few. Upon this, every one was ready to beg the ail Hi El 362 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. any other traveller to rival him; and he prided himself in the reflection, that having touched at Teneriffe, he had visited a Spanish settlement, as well as this man. Captain Gierke saw the other adventurer, and found him to be a low fellow, a little out of his senses. Both of them were regarded by their countrymen with indifference. The news, that red feathers could be procured on board the Resolution and Discovery, soon attracted a crowd of visitors, bringing hogs and fruit to market. At first, a few feathers, not greater than what might be got from a tom-tit, would purchase a hog of 40 or 501b. weight; but so many on board were possessed of this precious article, that its value soon fell 500 per cent. Abundant supplies, however, were purchased for both ships; and it was now very prudently proposed to the crews of both, to take cocoa-nut liquor, in lieu of their usual allowance of grog, that they might not run the risk of being without spirits in exploring the arctic regions, where such a cordial would be most wanted. This salutary proposal was promptly agreed to, and the result is thus noted by the Captain: " Accordingly we stopped serving grog, except on Saturday nights; when the companies of both ships had full allowance of it, that they might drink the healths of their female friends in England; lest these, amongst the pretty girls of Otaheite, should be wholly forgotten." On the day when he landed, Capt. Cook paid a visit to a singular personage, a lame old man, named Etary, who pretended to be Olla, or Orra, the god of Bolabola. Some young plantain trees had been laid before him, and upon the awning under which he sat: in other respects, he appeared OAITIPHA. 363 as an ordinary chief. Another person was met with here, pretending to be divinely inspired, and to utter predictions, or deliver oracles, and hence called an Eatooa. He seemed to be a person of an indifferent character, and not much regarded. It was not till the 17th, that Waheatua, or Wa- heiadooa, King of Tiarabu, came to the place, and was waited on by Captain Cook and his friends. This was a young brother of the Waheatua, mentioned in the former voyage, who had died , about twenty months before the arrival of the ships. His tupapow, that is, the shed, or awning, where his body still lay in state, in a reclining posture, was found by some of the gentlemen, in their wa^ks, and mistaken for a Roman Catholic chapel. Two men constantly guarded the place, and no stranger was permitted to enter within the palli- sades that inclosed it. The young prince, now visited, was but twelve years old, and was accompanied by his mother; a chief named Etorea, his tutor; with Etary, and others. He had sent a present of two hogs, and the Captain now made him presents in return; and after some speechifying, in which Omai bore a part, a treaty of friendship was ratified, the King and the Captain embracing each other, and exchanging names; and then going on board together to dine. The prince afterwards sent another present of ten or twelve hogs, with a [quantity of fruit, and cloth. Omai at the visit paid to Waheatua, wore a jdress, neither English nor Tahitian, but forming a strange medley of all that he possessed. He had [prepared a maro, or girdle, of red and yellow fea- Ibhers, of very great value, intended as a present for [Otoo. The Captain advised him to keep it on 364 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. board, till he could give it to Otoo in person: but he foolishly resolved to hand it to Waheatua, to be forwarded to Otoo as an addition to the royal maro, supposing that thus he would oblige both chiefs. But a prize so valuable was too tempting for Waheatua and his friends; only a small part of the feathers was sent to Otoo: and hence, the effect of the present was completely lost; for Waheatua felt little or no gratitude, and Otoo, whose favour was of more consequence, was highly offended. Having parted with their friends in Tiarabu, our navigators sailed out of the bay, in the morning of the 23rd, and arrived at Matavai in the evening. Next morning, Capt. Cook landed with Omai, and found King Otoo waiting there, attended by his father, his two brothers, and three sisters, with an immense concourse of people. Omai was dressed in his best, and behaved well; he gave the King, whom he respectfully saluted, a large piece of red feathers, and two or three yards of gold cloth; while the Captain gave him a suit of fine linen, a gold-laced hat, some tools, a quantity of red feathers, and one of the rich royal bonnets, used at the Friendly Isles. The royal party went on board with the Captain, followed by canoes laden with their presents, consisting of provisions of all kinds, sufficient to serve the people of both ships for a week. The King's mother afterwards came on board, with a quantity of provisions and cloth, which she divided between the Captain and Omai. The latter was little noticed, till it was known that he was rich. Among those who met Capt. Cook at Matavai, was his affectionate friend Oedidee, or Heete-heete, MATAVAI. 365 called also Mahine, by Mr. Forster. He had arrived here three months before, and was glad to meet his English friends; whose language and manners he had not entirely forgotten, although he preferred his native dress. The Captain gave him a chest of tools, with some clothes sent him by the Admiralty; but the latter, after a few days, he declined wearing. During the stay of the ships here, he gave a dinner on shore to his English friends, and some Tahitian chiefs; as Omai also did. King Otoo was of the party, at both dinners. The most valuable presents brought hither by our navigator, consisted of live stock, which he felt great pleasure in bringing ashore, and committing to Otoo. The poultry he took to Oparre, the King's usual residence; consisting of a peacock and hen, a present from Lord Besborough ; a turkey cock and hen; a drake, and four ducks; a gander, and three geese: besides which, there was here the old gander, which Captain Wallis gave Oberea ten years before. The Spanish bull was here, tied to a tree near Otoo's house ; a very fine animal: and three cows were now sent to him. As the bull belonged to Etary, who proposed to take it to Bolabola, another was left at Matavai, with a horse and mare, and some sheep. The Spanish goats had multiplied, and several of them belonged to Otoo. The geese and ducks began to breed before the ships sailed.—A new garden was cleared, and many vegetables were planted: melons, potatoes, and pine-apples seemed to thrive; and shaddock trees, brought from the Friendly Islands. The Spaniards had planted a vine at Oaitipiha; but the natives, trying the fruit when unripe, thought it poisonous, and trode it down. Yet it 7^ I P • P*{' ;• ii 366 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. was not wholly destroyed; and Omai, who told them of their mistake, took some slips to carry with him.—Captains Cook and Gierke took a ride on horseback for the first time, on the 14th of Sept., and continued this exercise daily during the rest of their stay; to the great surprise and amazement of the natives, who gazed on them with wonder; as if they had been centaurs. Nothing had hitherto given them higher ideas of the power and greatness of Europeans. The Captain was visited at Matavai by great numbers of his old friends, all of whom brought presents; so that more provisions were obtained than could well be made use of: at the same time, there was no apprehension of exhausting the island, which every where exhibited tokens of the most exuberant plenty.-—The celebrated Oberea was now dead/ Tee, the King's uncle, had also been dead about four months. The elegant tupapow, where his body was preserved at Oparre, was visited by the Captain, though he was not-permitted to go within the pales. The body had undergone a process of embalming; and being rubbed over with cocoa-nut oil, and other substances, was but little changed. The features were not much altered, the joints were quite pliable, and no disagreeable smell was felt. Oamo, the husband of Oberea, died at the time the ships were leaving Otaheitrall About a week after the arrival of our people at Matavai, tidings came from Eimeo, that the in* habitants were in arms, and that Otoo's party had been worsted. The formidable armament preparing in 1774, when Captain Cook was last here, had not succeeded in subjugating that island; and the quarrel between the two islands seemed to have WAR WITH EIMEO. 367 subsisted ever since. A council was now held, at which the Captain was present; and after a noisy debate among the chiefs, the party for war prevailed. The Captain was urged to assist in the war, but refused, on the ground that the people of Eimeo had never offended him. He was desirous to bring about an accommodation between the contending parties, and afterwards spoke to the King's father on the subject, but found him bent on prosecuting the war. Towha, the great naval commander of 1774, who was not at the council, was still more resolute. Early on monday morning, September 1st, he sent word to Otoo, that he had killed a man to be offered in sacrifice to the Eatooa, viz. to Oro, the the god of war, at the great morai at Attahooroo. The King's presence being necessary at the offering of a human sacrifice, he set out immediately, with the Captain, in his boat; accompanied by Potatou, and Messrs. Anderson and Webber; Omai following in a .canoe. At a small island in their way, they met with Towha and his retinue; who gave Otoo a small tuft of red feathers, and put on board a lean dog for sacrifice, and a priest. On arriving at Attahooroo, Otoo desired that the seamen should remain in the boat, and that the gentlemen should take off their hats at the morai. The human victim, partly wrapped up in cocoa leaves and small branches, was in a small canoe on the beach, with- two priests and their attendants; while other priests and their attendants were at the morai. Otoo having placed himself about 20 or 30 paces from the priests, one of the attendants laid a young plantain tree before him, and another torched his feet with a tuft of red feathers. A 368 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. priest at the morai then made a long prayer; and sent down, at intervals, young plantain trees, which were laid on the sacrifice. The priests then left the morai, and sat down with those on the beach; taking with them two bundles, one containing the royal maro, while in the other was the ark of the Eatooa. Here the prayers were renewed, the plantain trees were removed one by one, the victim: was taken out of the canoe, and laid upon fjjM beach, with the feet to the sea; and after farther prayers and ceremonies, was uncovered, and laid parallel to the shore. One of the priests then standing at the feet, made a long prayer, in which the others joined him, each holding a tuft of red feathers: and during this prayer, some hair was pulled from the victim's head, and the left eye taken out; both which were presented to Otoo, wrapped up in a green leaf. This seemed to be; a relic of cannibalism, being called " eating the man," or if food for the chief: jf but though it was held to the King's mouth, it was presently withdrawn, and Otoo returned with it the tuft of featherj| received from Towha. The body was now moved nearer the morai, with the head towards it; and here the chief priest spoke for a quarter of an hour, addressing himself to the victim, whom he desirej to intercede with Oro for success in the war. He then, with. some other priests, chanted a pray^H which lasted half an hour, in a mournful tone; and during this prayer, some hair was plucked from the head of the corpse, and laid on one of the two bundles. He next prayed alone, holding in his hand the tuft of feathers received from Towha; which he handed to another, who prayed after him. The corpse was then removed to the most conspicu- HUMAN SACRIFICES. 369 ous part of the morai; the bundles and feathers were laid against the pile of stones, and two drums were beat slowly. The prayers were again renewed by the priests, while their attendants dug a grave, two feet deep, into which they threw the unhappy victim, and then covered him with earth and stones. At this time a boy squeaked aloud, and repeated his screams at intervals, while the drums were beat very loud. This was understood to be an invitation to the Eatooa to feast on the sacrifice : and now the dog was killed, and its entrails having been thrown into a fire to be consumed, its carcase was laid before the priests, who were praying round the grave; and afterwards laid on a whatta, or scaffold, where the remains of former sacrifices of dogs and hogs lay. Upon this a shout was raised by the priests, which closed the ceremonies of the day. Next morning the solemnity was renewed ; when a pig was sacrificed, and placed on the whatta. After some prayers and ceremonies, another pig was killed; and then the royal maro, a girdle about 5 yards long and 15 inches broad, richly adorned with red and yellow feathers, was taken out of one of the bundles, and displayed before Otoo, at whose feet a young plantain tree had been previously laid: and, a long prayer having been made, the maro was carefully folded up again, and deposited on the morai. The other bundle, containing the emblem of Oro, which our navigator was not allowed to see, was then opened at one end. The entrails of the pig that was last killed, were now spread forth, and carefully examined by the priests, to see if they presented any favourable omen; the examination being accompanied with 25 370 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. prayer. The entrails were then thrown into the fire to be consumed, and the carcase was placecH on the whatta. The tufts of red feathers that had , been used on this occasion, were all shut up in the ark of the Eatooa ; and the solemnity finally closed. During this day's service, Otoo was stationed between the two drums, in front of the morai, and the Captain beside him. Our navigator was duly affected with the horrors of thisjpraian sacrifice; more especially as he counted on the stone platform, or low altar, adjoining to the whatta, or elevated altar, no le$sj| than 49 skulls of human victims, none of which were so old as to have been injured by time, or by exposure to the weather. The skull of this poor wretch would be taken up from the grave, after the lapse of some months, and make up the number to 50. And this was not the only addition to be made at this time; for, in ten days alter, another unfortunate victim, sent by Waheatua, was offered up here; on occasion of Otoo's restoring to the friends of the late Tootaha, the lands and possess sip^s withheld from them since his death. The Captain did not know of this second sacrifice, t|M it was too late for him to wifcnpss it. At the place where the skulls lay, were a number of those up* right planks, or pieces of wood, called unus, curiously carved, and used to represent tits, or spiri^jM It was observed, that, during the offering ofe: the human sacrifice, the company present d*4n not manifest that seriousness which might have been expected. Even some of the priests, not immediately engaged, were conversing together, and a great pa$ of the company, instead of attend^! to the splemni^i> were crowding around Omai, to HUMAN SACRIFICES. 371 hear him relate his adventures, a task for which he was ever ready. Yet the King seemed to feel a a superstitious awe; for when a kingfisher was making a noise in the trees, during the ceremonies, he said to Captain Cook, " That is the Eatooa." The screaming of a boy, too, when they were burying the human victim, and sacrificing the dog, seemed to impress many with the idea of a present divinity. During the horrid ceremony, the Captain observed a profound silence; but, in returning home with Otoo, he expressed his detestation of it, to him and his attendants; and afterwards to Towha, whom they again met with at the small island. He told them, that such a cruel sacrifice, instead of propitiating the Deity, would rather draw down his vengeance; and he ventured to predict, that the war with Eimeo would prove unsuccessful; which he could safely anticipate from the disunion of the Tahitians^ Omai, who acted as his interpreter, seconded his remonstrances so warmly, that Towha seemed to be m great wrath; and when Omai told him, that had he thus put a man to death hi England, his rank would not have protected him from being hanged, he exclaimed, "vile! vilef and would not hear another word. Several natives present, heard Omai's statement with very different feelings. Towha seemed angry with Captain Cook also, because he peremptorily refused to take part in the war. The evening of this day was spent by Captain Cook and his friends at Otoo's house, where they were entertained with a heeva, or play, in which his three sisters were performers. With such exhibitions our people were often amused; besides Ill 372 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. being treated with feasts, and plentifully supplied with provisions, in the form of presents ; for which, of course, suitable returns were made. On the day when Oedidee gave a dinner, a large present of cloth was sent by Whappai, the King's father, in a most singular way: the cloth was wrapped round two girls in such quantity, that each of them measured live or six yards round, so that it was with* difficulty they were conducted on board, along with a quantity of hogs and fruit. As Captain Cook sometimes entertained the- natives with exhibitions of fireworks and military exercises, he was himself entertained with a specimen of their naval manoeuvres, and mode of fight-' ing at sea. Two war canoes/'the one commanded by Otoo, the other by Omai, went through various movements of advancing and retreating; till at last they closed, and after all the men on the fighting stage in Otoo's vessel were supposed to be killed, Omai's party boarded it, while Otoo and his friends leaped overboard, as if to save their lives: for in their engagements no quarter is given. • The strength of these islands lies in their navies, and their decisive battles are fought on the water. The war with Eimeo, conducted by Towha,! Potatow, and other chiefs, was feebly carried on.' They sent repeatedly to Otoo for reinforcements; but, on monday, September 22nd, when the King was ready to sail with a large fleet, accompanied^ by his British friends, who were then ready to put I to sea, news came that Towha had made peacel with the men of Eimeo, and had returned with his fleet to Attahooroo. He was blamed for making as dishonourable peace, instead of waiting for reinq forcements; Whappai, in particular, was vexed atl PEACE WITH EIMEO. 373 this result, as he wisely judged, that Capt. Cook's accompanying Otoo's fleet to Eimeo, though he took no part in the war, would have been of singular service to their cause. Towha, on the other hand, laid all the blame on Otoo, who had delayed too long to support him. He even threatened, it was said, to attack Otoo in revenge, as soon as Captain Cook should leave the place: to prevent which, the latter openly declared, that whoever presumed to injure his friend, should feel the weight of his displeasure, at his next visit to the island. Waving their differences, at least for the present, the chiefs resolved to hold a public meeting at the great morai in Attahooroo, to confirm the peace, and acknowledge the god Oro on the occasion : and Towha sent a messenger with a plantain tree to Otoo, to requesttihis attendance. Lieut. King and Omai accompanied him; and they landed at Tettaha, where he and Towha had a good deal of conversation. Next morning much ava was drunk (the kava of the Friendly Isles), and one man was completely intoxicated. Towha had an affecting meeting with his wife and daughter, who cut their heads, and shed both blood and tears ; and the girl had to renew her sufferings, on the arrival of Terridiri, Oberea's son. On reaching Attahooroo with Otoo, our friends saw three canoes hauled up on the beach, with three hogs exposed in each. The intended solemnity, however, was not performed that day; but a chief from Eimeo came with a small pig, and a plantain tree, and placed them at Otoo's feet; after which they had much conversation on the affairs of the two islands. ml COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. On Wednesday, the 24th, Towha and Potatow* I with eight large canoes, landed near the morai ; and many plantain trees were presented to Otoo, on the part of different chiefs. The chief priest then brought out the royal maro and the ark of Oro, which were placed at the head of the grave, where a human victim had been buried; while three priests took their station at the foot of £Mr§ rave. The priests then pronounced various sentences, and sung a melancholy ditty; and when they had sung and prayed about an hour, the chief priest, after a short prayer, uncovered the maro; and Otoo, rising up, wrapped it about him, holding also in his hand a cap of feathers, in?I which the red feathers of the tail of the tropic bird I were most conspicuous. He stood facing the three priests, who continued praying for about ten minutes ; when a man, starting from the crowds said something which ended with the word heim! and the crowd thrice echoed back to him, Eane ! The company then moved to the opposite side of the morai, where the same ceremony was performed, ending with three cheers. The maro was now wrapped up and laid aside* after Otoo had stuck I in it a small piece of red feathers, given him by one of the priests. The company next retired to a large building, j adjoining the morai; and when tbey hadjseated themselves in order, several speeches were delivered, which, according to Omai, wese all pacific* A man afterwards rose up, with a sling round his waist, and a large stone on his shoulder; and after parading nearly a quarter of an hour, and singings some sentences, be tferew down the stone; whida|I with a plantain tree that lay at Otoo's feet, being OMAI'S IMPRUDENT CONDUCT. 375 carried to the morai, Otoo and a priest uttered some words, which closed the solemnity.—The plantain tree seems to be much used by these islanders, not only as the olive branch of peace, but as a mark of homage, and token of devotion. It was an attack of rheumatism that prevented Capt. Cook from being present at this solemnity, and of this disorder he was speedily cured, by an operation which had also been successfully performed here on Capt. Wallis. A dozen females, including the King's mother and three sisters, accompanied him on board the Resolution; and when he was laid upon a bed on the cabin floor, they surrounded him on every side, and began to squeeze him with both hands from head to foot, till his bones cracked, and his flesh became a perfect mummy. When the process had been continued about a quarter of an hour, the Captain felt so much relieved by it, that he submitted to it a second time, before he went to bed. This operation, which is called romee, was repeated by his female physicians in the mormjag, before they went ashore; and again in the evening, when they returned on board. Next morning, they took leave of their patient, the cure being then perfected. Our navigator intended to leave Omai at Otaheite, where he might have been useful in instructing the natives in the management of the European animals, now left here: but he acted so imprudently as to forfeit the friendship of Otoo, and all the principal chiefs. He associated with vagabonds and strangers, whose sole views were to plunder him; and this drew upon him the ill-will of the chiefs, who found that they could not procure from any one in the ships, such valuable presents as m 376 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. Omai bestowed on the lowest of the people, his companions. He would not have behaved so unlike himself, had it not been for the sinister influence of his sister and brother-in-law, who, with a few of their acquaintance, sought to engross him entirely to themselves, to strip him of every thing. To save him from ruin, the Captain was obliged to take the most useful articles of his property into his own custody, to remove him to Huaheine, and peremptorily to forbid these selfish people to follow him thither. Omai, however, had got one good thing here, for the many good things he gave away; viz. a fine double canoe, presented by Towha, completely equipped, and fit for the sea : and lie decked it out with ten or a dozen flags and pendants, of different nations. He also provided himself with a good stock of cloth, and cocoa-nut oil, at Otaheite; where they are better and cheaper, than at the other islands. A day or two before the ships sailed, Otoo came on board, and begged the Captain to take home a I canoe with him, which he had prepared as a present to the Earee rahie no Pretane—" the King of Britain." Capt. Cook was much pleased with this token of gratitude, which was altogether spontaneous, and regretted that he could not accept the present, as it was too large to take on board. It was a handsome double canoe, richly decorated with carved work. In leaving Otaheite at this time, it was a pleasing reflection for our navigators, that nothing had ^ occurred during their stay, to interrupt their friendly intercourse with the inhabitants. No accidents had taken place, and no thefts of any consequence had been committed. The Captain had prudently i 0M DEPARTURE FROM OTAHEITE. m informed the chiefs, through Omai, at his first interview with them, that he was determined not to permit the natives to rob or pilfer; and that they would obtain a much larger share of British commodities in the way of fair trade, than by attempting to steal: and being thus taught, that " Honesty is the best policy," the chiefs not only forbore to steal themselves, but stationed guards, in different places, near Point Venus, to prevent any of the people from committing depredations„ When Etary, the pretended god of Bolabola, took up his residence at Matavai, he was soon after removed to Oparre; and this was understood to have taken place at the desire of Otoo, who was afraid that his people might make attempts on the property of his respected visitors. Otoo, indeed, considered Matavai Fort as the property of the British, to be used by them on all occasions : and it is observable, that his son, twenty years after, formally ceded the district of Matavai to Captain Wilson, for the British Missionaries. On monday, Sept. 29th, the ships weighed anchor, and stood out of the bay; when, to gratify Otoo and his people, seven guns were fired as a parting salute. Otoo being desirous of seeing the ships sail, Capt. Cook made a stretch out to sea with him, and then in again ; when the King and his attendants took a very affectionate leave of their British friends, and went ashore in his canoe. CHAPTER XXI. Arrival at Eimeo: behaviour of Maheine. Two goats stolen ; the natives compelled by severe measures to restore them. Arrival at Huaheine. Omai's settlement there: animals, and other property, left with him. Remarks on his situation: lines from Cowper. Sequel of Omai's history ; and notices of Oedidee. Arrival at Ulietea. Desertion of a marine, who is recovered. Desertion of a midshipman and a seaman : serious troubles incurred in recotfering them. Bolabola visited : animals left there, and at Ulietea. Discovery of Christmas Island. The Sandwich Islands discovered. Landing at Atooi. Respectful conduct of the natives, and friendly trade with them. A morai examined. Manners and customs of the natives. Landing at Oneeheow. Reverence shewn to Capt. Cook, as to the native chiefs. On tuesday, Sept. 30th, the ships anchored in the fine harbour of Taloo, in the north part of Eimeo j which was found to be an excellent place for procuring wood and water. The natives soon came hither in crowds; partly through curiosity, and partly to carry on a friendly trade. On thtirsday, Oct. 2nd, Maheine, the chief of the island, wfio held the supreme power, in opposition to Motooaro, the rightful sovereign, Otoo's brother-in-law, came to visit Capt. Cook, along with his wife, who was Oamo's sister; but knowing the friendship between the Captain and Otoo, with whom he had just been at war, he approached the Resolution very cautiously, and could scarcely be persuaded to go on board. Capt. Cook received him and his lady EIMEO. 379 with kindness, and presents were interchanged. The chief was bald-headed; but concealed this defect by a turban. One of the natives who had been caught stealing, was punished by our people with the tonsure, as inflicted at the Friendly Isles; and hence it was supposed, that baldness, among the British, was a mark of disgrace, and some gentlemen on board, not overburdened with hair, were shrewdly suspected to be tetos. The ships had been well repaired at Otaheite; but, this being a very convenient harbour, a few days were spent here in paying further attention to the stores, particularly in tarring the heads of the spirit casks, to save them from insects. In the mean time, four goats which had been procured from Otoo, were taken on shore to graze, with some other cattle; and once or twice, Capt. Cook and Omai took a ride on horseback along the shore, to the no small wonder of the inhabitants. The landing of the goats, however, proved the occasion of much troubfe and mischief. Maheine had begged a couple of them; but the Captain having destined them for other islands, instead of granting his request, desired Tidooa, a Tahitian chief, who was present, to beg Otoo to send two goats to Maheine> and sent a large piece of red feathers to pay for them. This arrangement did not satisfy Maheine, and on monday, the 6th, one of the goats was found to have been stolen. A boat was despatched next day to Maheine, then at tbe neighbouring harbour of Parowroah, requiring ham to deliver up the goat, and also the thief; and the boat returned in the evening, bringing not only the goat, but one of the thieves. In the mean time, the goats being sent off again to graze, ano- 380 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. ther of them had been stolen, before this.- came back. Next morning, the natives were found to have deserted the place, and it was learned that Maheine himself had removed. The Captain, perceiving, that the latter had resolved to steal what he had been refused, determined to make him return the goat: and accordingly sent a boat, with two petty officers, to Watea, whither it was said to have been conveyed, to demand it of Hamoa, chief of that place; but the natives amused them with vain pretences, and the boat returned in the evening without it. Capt. Cook was now sorry that he had proceeded so far, but, with that firmness of purpose for which he was noted, he would not now retract, and resolved to recover the goat, whatever it might cost. Omai, and two old men, who. had assisted him in recovering the other goat, advised him to march with a party through the country, and shoot every person that could be met with. This bloi&ly counsel was of course rejected; but, on the morning of the 9th, a parity.of about 40 proceeded with the Captain into the interior, while three armed boats, commanded by Lieut. Williamson, were sent round to the west sidfiUlfl the island, to meet them. When the land part$ reached Watea, Hamoa, and such of his people as had notified, denied that they had seen the goat, or knew anij|rifcSng of it. The natives had been seen running to and fro with clubs and darts; but seeing the Captain's force, they gave up the idea of resisting. Omai was employed to warn them of the consequences of refusing to surrender the goat; and as they persisted in denying all knowledge of it, Capt. Cook burned six or eight houses, and two EIMEO. 381 or three war canoes lying near them. Proceeding some miles further, he consumed other six* war canoes; but another that lay in the way, beyond these, was spared at the humble request of the natives, who came with plantain trees in their hands, and laid them at the Captain's feet. The party met the boats in a part of the island belonging to Otoo's friends, and returned by sea to the ships, where no account of the goat had been received. Early next morning, the Captain sent a peremptory message to Maheine, by one of Omai's servants, threatening to destroy the whole of his canoes, if he persisted in keeping the goat; and before the messenger set out, the carpenter was sent to break up three4 or four canoes that lay at the head of the harbour; the plank being carried on board, to aid in constructing a house for Omai. In the afternoon, three or four more were broken up in the next harbour, and as many burnt. These last might have been spared; for, in consequence of the message sent to Maheine, the goat was brought back before the party returned from this work of destruction. The Captain was exceedingly grieved in reflecting, that after having resisted the pressing invitations of the Tahitians to take part in the war against Maheine, he had thus been compelled to resort to hostilities, which probably did more mischief than Towha's expedition. The natives, however, appeared conscious, that the blame rested with themselves; for, after the goat was restored, they renewed their friendly trade, in the full confidence, that no further harm would be done them. Leaving Eimeo on the 11th, our navigators arrived next day at Fare harbour, in Huaheine; 382 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. ! I Omai preceding them in his canoe. The Tahitians, who had come with ^em, gave a very exaggerated account of the ^mischief done at Eimeo; and at this the Captain was not sorry, as the peo- pie of Huaheine required such a lesson. This island was now almost in a state of anarchy; Oree, the friend of Cook, had been forced to resign the sovereign power, which he had held as regent for Taireetareea; and the latter, being stfft a boy of e%ht or ten years, could not exercise much authority over the chiefs. As the Captain wished Omai to settle here, an assembly was held on the 13th, attended by a great number of respectable looking chiefs, as well as the prince; when Omai, with much ceremony, gave handsome presents to him, and to his Eatooa; accompanied with prayers, in which the King of Britain, Lord Sandwich, Cook, and Clerke, were not forgotten. Some of the presents were sent to the morai. Capt. Cook then exchanged presents with the young King; and Omai, by the Captain's direction, made a speech on the subject of his; voyage to Britain> the good treatment he had there received, the rich presents he had brought back, and his wish to settle, with all his property, in that island.—Omai had expected, that Capt. Cook would reinstate him in his paternal inheritance in Ulietea, expelling the men of Bolabola; and so bent was he on conquering the latter, to gratify a spirit of revenge, that when Etary, at Otaheitsji offered to give him peaceable possession of the in*? heritance of his fathers, he spurned at the offer. On this subject he had talked idly to some of the cWefe, present at this meeting, and they were pleased with the idea of driving out the Bolabola wssam OMAI SETTLED AT HUAHEINE. 383 men : but the Captain peremptorily declaring in this assembly, that he would neither countenance nor permit any hostile invasion of Ulietea, for such a purpose, the settlement of Omai at Huaheine was at once agreed to. A piece of ground, with a front of 200 yards towards the harbour, and extending backward to the hill, was set apart as Omai's property: and here a house was erected for him by the carpenters, while others were employed in making Mm a garden, and planting it with vegetables and fruit trees, including shaddocks, vines, pine-apples, and melons. His house being finished, on the 26th, he took possession of it, with his goods, and his family; the latter consisting of four or five persons whom he picked up at Otaheite, a brother and some others who joined him at Huaheine, and the two New Zealand youths, who felt much regret in parting with their British friends. He had also a sister and brother- in-law here; who, with his brother, received him affectionately; and did not seek to plunder him, like his relations at Otaheite. Of his prodigality there, he now heartily repented, beginning to feel the importance of husbanding his resources. Many culinary utensils, and articles of furniture, given him in England, but of no use here, he exchanged wiih persons on board, for hatchets and iron tools. In order to secure the fiavoi&r and patronage of some of the principal chiefs, he divided among them a portion of his property, by the Captain's direction. Some of his acquisitions excited much interest among the natives; particularly a box of toys, which he shewed them, and his fire-works, of which he gave an exhibition in the evening of the 384 COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 28th. He himself set most value on his coat of mail, and his European weapons ; consisting of a musket, bayonet, and cartouch box; a fowling- piece, two pair of pistols, and two or three swords; or cutlasses. Capt. Cook doubted the propriety of his having fire-arms, as there was a danger of his not making a prudent use of them; but his heart was much set on these weapons. After his settlement on shore, he had most of the officers of both ships to dinner, two or three times; and^ entertained them liberally. The animals left with him consisted of a horse and mare, on which he set much value; a goat big* with kid ; and a boar and two sows, of the English breed; besides a sow or two of his own. The goat died in kidding, about a fortnight after the ships' left Huaheine; and on his sending notice of his loss to Capt. Cook, then at Ulietea, his messengers received two kids for him, male and female, which were spared out of the Discovery. A man of Bolabola, a hardened thief, whom '-Wm Captain had severely punished for stealing a sextant, not only shaving him, but cropping his ears, committed depredations in Omai's garden, and threatened to kill him. Capt. Cook, to free him from such a dangerous neighbour, took him into custody, to transport him to Ulietea. He contrived, however, to escape from the ship ; but wasi found to have removed to that very island. When about to leave Huaheine, Captain Cook got the following inscription cut upon the outside of Omai's house: Georgius Tertms, Rex, 2 Novembris, 1777. ■jyj- ( Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr. \ Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr. PARTING WITH OMAI. 385 In the afternoon of the 2nd of November, our navigators sailed out of Fare harbour, when five guns were fired as a salute. Omai came off with the ships a short distance; and then went on shore, aving bid farewell to his kind British friends, in the most affectionate manner, with many tears. Before he sailed, the Captain, for the* further security of Omai, intimated to the principal chiefs, that if they should presume to molest his friend, ihey might expect to feel the weight of his resent- nent, on his next visit to their island. Captain Cook felt much satisfaction, in having restored :iim safe to the very spot from which he was taken. Yet he justly questioned, whether the happiness of Omai was not diminished, rather than increased, oy his connexion with the British; both because Ms riches exposed him to greater danger, and be- ause the sweets of civilized life, of which he had asted, were no more within his reach. This last Idea is beautifully illustrated by Cowper: These therefore I can pity, plac'd remote From all that science traces, art invents, Or inspiration teaches; and enclosed In boundless oceans never to be pass'd By navigators uninform'd as they, Or plough'd perhaps by British bark again: Bat far beyond the rest, and with most cause, Thee, gentle savage! whom no love of thee Or thine, but curiosity perhaps, Or else vainglory, prompted us to draw Forth from thy native bow'rs, to show thee here With what superior skill we can abuse The gifts of Providence, and squander life. The dream is past; and thou hast found again Thy cocoas and bananas, palms and yams, And homes tall thatch'd with leaves. But hast thou found 26 COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. Their former charms ? And, having seen our state, Our palaces, our ladies, and our pomp Of equipage! our gardens, and our sports, And heard our music; are thy simple friends, Thy simple fare, and all thy plain delights, As dear to thee as once ? And have thy joys Lost nothing by comparison with ours 1 Rude as thou art, (for we return'd thee rude And ignorant, except of outward show) I cannot think thee yet so dull of heart And spiritless, as never to regret Sweets tasted here, and left as soon as known. Methinks I see thee straying on the beach, And asking of the surge, that bathes thy foot, If ever it has washM our distant shore. I see thee weep, and thine are honest tears, A patriot's for his country: thou art sad At thought of her forlorn and abject state, From which no power of thine can raise her up. Thus Fancy paints thee, and, though apt to err, Perhaps errs little, when she paints thee thus. She tells me too, that duly ev'ry morn Thou climb'st the mountain top, with eager eye Exploring far and wide the wat'ry waste For sight of ship from England. Ev'ry speck Seen in the dim horizon turns thee pale With conflict of contending hopes and fears. But comes at last the dull and dusky eve, And sends thee to thy cabin, well-preparM, To dream all night of what the day denied* Alas ! expect it not. We found no bait To tempt us in thy country. Doing good, Disinterested good, is not our trade. v We travel far, 'tis true, but not for nought; And must be brib'd to compass Earth again By other hopes and richer fruits than yours* The worthy poet was mistaken in supposing, that these islands would no more partake of British benevolence; yet, as far as Omai was concerned, SEQUEL OF OMAI S HISTORY. his anticipations proved correct: for before another British ship .visited this group, the U gentle savage" was no more. When Lieut. Bligh, who had been Master of the Resolution, arrived at Otaheite, in 1788, to take bread-fruit plants to the West Indies, one of his first inquiries was for our friend Omai; and he felt greatly disappointed, when he learned, that he and his two New Zealand boys were all dead: so that they had lived only about ten years^ if so much, after their settlement at Fare. The sequel of Omai's history is thus given by the Rev. William Ellis, in his Polynesian Researches, Vol. II. pp. 94, 95, &c. P The estimate Captain Cook formed of his character was correct: he appeared to have derived no permanent advantage from the voyage he had made, the attention he had received, or the civilized society with which he had been associated. He soon threw off his European dress, and adopted the costume, uncivilized manners, and indolent life, of his countrymen. Weakness and vanity, together with savage pride, appear to have been the most conspicuous traits of character he developed in subsequent life." " The horses, included among his presents, appear to have been regarded by Mai as mere objects of curiosity, and were occasionally ridden, in order to inspire terror, or excite admiration, in the minds of the inhabitants. His implements of war, and especially the fire-arms, rendered his aid and cooperation a desideratum with the King of the island, who, in order more effectually to secure the advantage of his influence and arms, gave him one of his daughters in marriage*, and honoured * If this is correct, the young prince who was reigning in COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. him with the name of Paari (wise or instructed), by which name he is now always spoken of among the natives; several of whom still remember him. He appears to have passed the remainder of his life in inglorious indolence or wanton crime, to have become the mere instrument of the caprice or cruelty of the king of the island, who not only availed himself of the effects of his fire-arms in periods of war, but frequently ordered him to shoot at a man at a certain distance, to see how far the musket would do execution; or to despatch with his pistol, in the presence of the king, the ill-fated objects of his deadly anger." Thus as, on landing, he resumed the worship of his country's idols, he soon relapsed into its vices; instead of proving a blessing to the island, he was rather a curse; and, as Mr. Ellis further observe™ the majority of those whom he heard speak of him, " mentioned his name with execration, rather than respect." Had sufficient pains been taken, while he was in England, to imbue his mind with the principles of true religion, and to instruct him vm some of the useful arts, the result might have been very different. The spot where his house stood retains the name Beritani, or Britain; a shaddock tree, planted by" Capt. Cook, grows in his garden; his helmet, some other parts of his armour, and some cutlasses, are still displayed on the sides of the house erectedv| there; and even a few of his toys, including a jack-in-a-box, are preserved as curiosities. It is gratifying to add, that as Omai's bible is preserved, 1777, must have been superseded by some other chief more advanced in years; for that boy could not have a daughter of sufficient age to be Omai's wife, previous to 1788. ULIETEA. 389 and made use of, a building for divine worship now stands in front of the dark and glossy-leaved shaddock tree planted by Capt. Cook ; and on the same spot, the first school in Huaheine was opened by Christian Missionaries. The benevolent attempts of Cook, to stock Huaheine, Otaheite, and other islands, with horses and cattle, did not succeed: it was not till after the introduction of Christianity, and the establishment of permanent peace, that this important object was accomplished. Oedidee (or Hete-hete) survived Omai a number of years. When Lieut. Watts, who had sailed with Cook, visited Otaheite in the Lady Penrhyn, in 1788, three months before the arrival of Bligh, he found him at Matavai, in the service of Otoo, then called Pomare; who was so attached to him, that he would not consent to his accompanying Mr. Watts to Ulietea. Oedidee wanted to go to Britain with Lieut. Bligh; and he afterwards went with the mutineers in the Bounty to Toobouai; but when the Bounty returned to Matavai, in i September, 1789, he was again left there; and, from his skill in the use of fire-arms, was very serviceable to Pomare, and his son Otoo, in the war with Eimeo, in 1790. When Capt. Bligh, in the Providence, came a second time to Otaheite, for bread-fruit plants, in 1792, he took Oedidee with him to the West Indies, and he was left at [Jamaica, in 1793, to take care of the plants. On monday, Nov. 3rd, the ships arrived in the [harbour of Ohamaneno, in Ulietea; and here our [navigators were kindly received by their friend [Oreo, with his family and people; and spent [several days in trading for provisions, in nautical 390 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. 1 observations, and in paying further attention to| the ships and stores. Few thefts were committed! by the natives, but other troubles unexpectedly! occurred. On the 13th, John Harrison, a marine, deserted, and went to the other side of the island I where Capt. Cook, accompanied by Oreo, found him on the 15th, sitting between two women, with his musket lying before him. The females rose to plead for him; but the Captain, to discourage such proceedings, rebuked them with a frown, anejl sent them off in tears ; and when Paha, the local chief, came with a plantain tree and a sucking pigj as a peace-offering, he rejected his gift, and ordered him out of his sight. As it was found that Harrison had been enticed away by Paha and the women, he was punished with less severity than might have been expected. Another desertion, which threatened to produce worse consequences, was announced on monday, the 24th, when a midshipman and a seaman* belonging to the Discovery, were missing. Captl Clerke went in pursuit of them; but the natives amusing him with false information, his search was fruitless. Capt. Cook, knowing that the natives rarely presumed to attempt baffling him in the same way, set out himself in pursuit of the fugitives next day, taking Oreo with him; but on arriving at Otajra, whither they had fled, it was found, that they had escaped to Bolabola| Returning to the ships, he took other measures for recovering the deserters. Oreo's son, with Poedooa, his daughter, and Pootoe, hfeson-in-lawj were confined on board the Discovery on the 26th? and Oreo was informed, that unless the desefJM were brought back, these prisoners would be car-. "^^Uh ULIETEA. 391 ried off in the ships. Pootoe's father was immediately despatched to Bolabola, with directions to King Opoony to seize and restore the fugitives. In the mean time, many natives, chiefly women, came under the Discovery's stern in canoes, bewailing the fate of the prisoners, especially Poe- dooa, and expressing their grief by shedding their blood as well as their tears. While the women were thus engaged in lamentation, some of the men, impatient for the liberation of the royal captives, were devising means for retaliating on Capt. Cook in his own way. They first proposed to lay hold of himself, when he should go to bathe; as he was wont to retire for this purpose daily, alone and unarmed; but his prudence having frustrated this daring plan, they were about to seize Capt. Clerke and Lieut. Gore, who had walked out a little way from the ships; when Capt. Cook, apprized of their danger, instantly sent a strong party to rescue them, and another to stop the canoes, that were hurrying out of the harbour. The people who were going to seize the two officers, hearing two or three muskets fired, and seeing Capt. Clerke armed with a pistol, desisted from their enterprise. A girl whom one of the officers had brought from Huaheine, was the person who apprized Captain Cook of this daring conspiracy, and as the natives threatened to kill her, it was found necessary to convey her away to a place of safety. On the 28th, Oreo himself set out for Bolabola, in quest of the deserters; they had escaped from thence to the small island Toobaee, but were there seized, and brought back to the ships; upon which the three prisoners were released, and a friendly trade with the natives resumed. The ships were, however, 392 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. further detained, by contrary winds, till the 7th of December. During his stay here, Capt. Cook gave 1 instructions to Capt. Clerke, how to proceed in case the vessels should part company in the voyage! northward. Oree, the former sovereign, or regent, of Huaheine, was met with here; and Ooroo, the dethroned monarch of Ulietea. Both of them had I still a considerable retinue, and were treated with much respect. On monday, Dec. 8th, the ships arrived at Bolabola, where there is a good harbour on the west! side of the island. The wind and tide bein#J unfavourable for entering the harbour, Capt. Cook contented himself with going on shore in a boat, accompanied by Oreo and some friends, who had come with him from Ulietea. He was introduced to King Opoony, in the midst of a crowd of people ; and purchased from him an imperfect anchor, which Bougainville had lost at Otaheite, to make iron tools of it for trade, the stock being now very low. The Captain gave for it six axes, with several garments and toys. He also presented Opoony with a Cape ewe, having learned that he had got a Spanish ram. To Oreo he gave, at Ulietea, a pair of goats, and an English boar and sow. He stopped but a few hours at Bolabola, and then bade a final adieu to the chiefs and their friends, and to those lovely isles of the Pacific, where he had spent so many pleasant days. Many m natives had begged to be taken on board, to visit Britain; but he peremptorily refused every such application.—His journal regarding this visit to Otaheite and the Society Isles, closes with a number of additional observations, relating to the islands, their productions, and their inhabitants; SANDWICH ISLES.—AT00I. 393 partly by himself, and partly by Mr. Anderson' From Bolabola, our navigators sailed towards the north; in the night between the 22nd and 23rd, they crossed the line, and on the 24th discovered a small and low uninhabited island, in 1° 58' N. lat., 202° 28' E. long. Here they anchored for eight days, during which they obtained an abundant supply of fish, and about 300 fine green turtle, weighing, on an average, 90 or 1001b. each. On the 30th, an eclipse of the sun was observed, on a little isle opposite a central lagoon. Here some cocoa nuts and yams were planted, and melon seeds sown. A bottle also was left containing this inscription: Georgius Tertius, Rex, 31 Decembris, 1777. Naves ( Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr. \Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr. During the fishing for turtle, two seamen lost their way on the island; one of them was absent a whole day, and the other was not found till the third days when he was much exhausted for want of food, and especially of fresh water, not a drop being found in the island. From this place, which was named Christmas Island, our navigators proceeded on their course, on the 2nd of January, 1778 : and on the 18th, in lat. 21° 12' N., long. 200° 41' E., they came in sight of some high islands, which proved to be part of a new and interesting group, which Capt. Cook named the Sandwich Islands. On monday, the 19th, the ships approached an island, which was found to be named Atooi; and some natives coming off in canoes, our people were agreeably surprised to find, that their language was, with 394 COOE S THIHD VOYAGE. little variation, that of Otaheite. They readily exchanged fish, potatoes, and pigs, for nails. They cared not for beads ; but set a great value on iron, which they asked for by the names toe and hammte. At the same time, their great astonishment at the sight of the ships, and the things on board, was a proof that no Europeans had visited them befcee* Some of them repeated a long prayer before they came on board, and were at first afraid of giving offence; but afterwards they attempted to seize every thing they came near, and one man made off with the butcher's cleaver, and gained the shore with his prize. Next day, the ships anchored in a convenient road, opposite a village called Wymoa, where there was plenty of fresh water. Lieut. Williamson had been previously sent with three armed boats, to examine the shore; and at one place where he tried to land, the natives crowded upon him, attempting to seize oars, muskets, and whatever else they could reach; so that he felt obliged to fire on them, and one man was. unfortunately killed ; a circumstance which Capt. Cook did not hear of, till he had left the island. In the afternoon, the Captain went on shore; and as soon as he reached the land, the whole of the assembled natives fell upon their faces before him, and continued to lie prostrate, till he made signs for them to rise; when they presented to him a number of young pigs, and plantain leaves, with much ceremony, and long prayers. A friendly trade for hogs and potatoes was then established, and the watering party filled their casks at a pool, without molestation. On Wednesday, the 21st, Captain Cook, with Messrs. Anderson and Webber, took a walk into ATOOI. 395 the country; and observed several morais, at each of which was a quadrangular pyramid of rude wicker-work, covered with a light grey cloth, which gave it a white appearance. Beside it was an elevated board, like the whatta of Otaheite, on which lay oblations of plantains; some carved pieces of wood were also set up, corresponding with the Tahitian unus; and in an adjacent house were two wooden images, called Eatooa no vehema, or goddesses. The graves of some chiefs, were pointed out by the guide, being small square enclosures ; and close to each of them was the grave of a human victim. The Captain also discovered with deep regret, that cannibalism was not unknown here; a wooden knife or saw, armed with shark's teeth, used for cutting up dead bodies, was among the articles purchased; and the natives acknowledged the use that was made of it, and affirmed that human flesh was savoury eating. The natives were only partially tattooed: the men had generally no clothing but the maro ; the women wore a short petticoat. Some of the chiefs had short cloaks of red and yellow feathers, resembling rich velvet; and helmets of wicker-work covered with feathers, and adorned with an elegant crest. Some had their hair set up in a crest, while others had it twisted into numerous ringlets; none had their ears pierced, but several wore necklaces of small strings and shells, and bracelets of shells, ivory, black wood, or hog's teeth. Their cloth was well manufactured, and prettily coloured; their canoes were neatly built, but smaller than those of Otaheite; their houses resembled oblong haystacks ; they had wooden bowls, and bottles of gourd-shells, neatly made, and often handsomely 396 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. painted: their fishing-hooks also, which were of various kinds, were formed with much ingenuity and taste. They use Tahitian ovens in baking their food. On friday, the 23rd, Captain Cook put to sea in the Resolution, in the hope of finding a better place of anchorage in Atooi; but being disappointed in this, as well as in trying to regain his former station, he was joined by the Discovery on the 25th; and both ships, after being much baffled with currents, anchored, on the 29th, at another island, called Oneeheow. Here, as at Atooi, to which this island is subject, the natives commenced a friendly trade, disposing their pigs, potatoes, yams, mats, and salt, for nails and pieces of iron. Lieut. Gore was sent ashore with a party, to look for fresh water, and a good landing place; he and a party were again sent ashore, on the 30th, to trade for refreshments; and owing to the strength of the wind, and the violence of the surf, they remained on shore two nights. This circumstance gave the Captain much pain; for he had been very anxious to prevent the men from having intercourse with the native females, lest the latter should be infected with an odious disease, then existing among the crew. It ought to be noticed, to his honour, that he often condemns in his journal that illicit commerce with native women, which he found himself unable wholly to repress. In closing his remarks respecting the fascinations of Otaheite, he says, " If I could now add any finishing strokes to a picture, the outlines of which have been already drawn with sufficient accuracy, I should still have hesitated to make this journal the place for exhibiting a view of licentious manners, y 0NEEHE0W. 397 which could only serve to disgust those for whose information I write." Having found a better landing place, the Captain went ashore on the 1st of February; and here, as at Atooi, he was received with much ceremony, and all who met him, during his walks, fell prostrate before him. This homage the natives pay to their own principal chiefs, none of whom were seen by Captain Cook. One of them, a youth named Tamahano, clothed from head to foot, came on board the Discovery at Wymoa, in a double canoe; which, like that of Poulaho at the Friendly Isles, dashed over the small canoes that lay in the way, without trying to avoid them. He exchanged presents with Captain Clerke, but would not go below. The natives paid him, and his wife who accompanied him, the greatest reverence. After procuring more water and refreshments at Oneeheow, our navigators sailed hence, on monday, Feb. 2nd, leaving the rest of this new archipelago as a subject for future investigation. They had seen other three of the group, viz. Woahoo, Oree- houa, and Tahoora. The islands visited did not appear so densely peopled, as from their fertility might have been expected. CHAPTER XXII. lit I American coast seen. Arrival in Nootka Sound: notices of the country, and its inhabitants. Resolution repaired. Voyage northward: stormy weather. Prince William's Sound, and its inhabitants. Cook's River discovered, and examined : intercourse with the natives there. Progress westward. Russian Letters received. Oonalashka, and its inhabitants. Coast explored in advancing northward: natives seen. Death of Mr. Anderson. Arrival at the western extremity of America. The Tschutski. Voyage northward stopped by fields of ice. Sea-horses killed for food. Cape North. Coast of Asia. Return to the American coast. Norton. Sound, and its inhabitants. Oonalashka revisited : Russian traders met with : their friendly conduct. Progress southward : return to the Sandwich Islands. Mowee, and Owhy- hee, discovered and examined. Behaviour of the crew. Friendly trade with the natives. The ships anchor in Karakakooa Bay. Close of Capt. Cook's Journal. From the Sandwich Islands our navigators steered their course towards the north and east, in order to fall in with the coast of North America; and at length, on Saturday, March 7th, the land of New Albion, so named by Sir Francis Drake, came in sight; the ships being then in lat. 44° 33' N., long. 235° 20' E. The land appeared of a moderate height, diversified with rising grounds, and small hills, many of which were densely clothed with wood; while in some parts the ground was covered with snow, an article which our mariners had not recently seen. Baffled with contrary winds and N00TKA SOUND. 399 foul weather, they advanced to the northward with difficulty, being sometimes driven out of sight of land; but, on the 29th, they discovered an extensive sound, which was found to be called Nootka; and anchored within the entrance, in lat. 49° 33' N., long. 233° 12' E. Here the country presented a different aspect, there being numerous lofty mountains, with snow-^clad summits, while the intervening valleys, and the whole sea-coast, appeared like one vast and rich forest of pine and cypress. The coast was soon found to be inhabited ; and several natives, coming off in canoes, approached the ships with much ceremony; reciting long harangues, singing soft and melodious songs, shaking a kind of rattles, and strewing handfuls of feathers, and of red powder, towards their visitors. Their language had no affinity to the Tahitian, but seemed akin to that of Mexico. They had less vivacity than the South Sea Islanders, but had also less wantonness and violence, their behaviour being generally quiet and inoffensive. Yet they were no strangers to war and cruelty; for among the articles which they afterwards brought to the ships for sale, were human skulls, and hands not quite stripped of the flesh, the rest of which they signified that they had eaten. No European ships had been here before, for the Spaniards who sailed along this coast in 1775, did not visit the people of Nootka Sound; yet they were acquainted with commerce, and with the use of metals, and had tools and ornaments of iron, brass, &c, procured from the interior. Two silver table spoons, probably Spanish, they sold to our people; from whom they eagerly sought for iron and brass. The articles which they offered for tiP' I 400 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. sale were chiefly skins, or furs, of the bear, wolf, fox, deer, lynx, martin, ermine, beaver, and sea otter; garments made of these skins, flaxen man4 ties, and woollen robes, such as they wore; their bows, arrows, spears, and other weapons; fishhooks, pieces of carved work, and sundry ornaments : in exchange for which, they received knivesj chisels, nails, buttons, &c. They traded pretty fairly: yet were rather grasping, taking payment for the grass that was cut for the sheep and goats on board, and asking it even for wood and water. In several instances, however, they were guilty of pilfering; and, having iron tools, they were rather dangerous thieves. Finding the trade with the ships lucrative, the people of the Sound wished to. engross it to themselves; and quarrelled, in some cases, with the numerous strangers who came hither in canoes, to visit the ^British. They also appeared to carry on a trade with more distant tribes, procuring with their British articles, fresh cargoes of skins and curiosities, to sell to the ships; for which purpose, some of them were absent four or five days together. Here our navigators remained four weeks, during which the masts and rigging of the Resolution underwent a thorough repair; the mizen-mast was entirely renewed, and much work done on the main-mast, and fore-mast: the adjacent forests supplying them with excellent timber. No tropical fruits or roots could be got here; but spruce beer was brewed for the crew, who were also supplied with excellent fish, which the natives sold on reasonable terms. The productions of the place, both animal and vegetable, corresponded, in many respects, with those of Europe. NOOTKA SOUND. 401 Although much engaged with the repairs of his ship, Capt. Cook now and then took a view of the Sound, which was found to be of great extent, and to contain several islands. Two villages were visited. At the most remote, a surly chief refused to let the strangers enter the houses; although some young girls, dressed in their best apparel, welcomed them with a song; as was often done by parties of natives who visited the ships in canoed. At the nearest village, the Captain and his friends had a kind reception, and examined the the houses, and their contents, at pleasure: Mr. Webber, as usual, making drawings of every thing that was curious. The natives were of filthy habits* both as to their persons, their dress, and their houses. Their persons were not handsome, and they besmeared their bodies with* red paint. Their dwellings were constructed of boards, sometimes rudely carved; and several families lived under one roof, their sleeping and sitting places being arranged along both sides of the house, like so many different stalls in a stable, but with very low partitions between them. Their canoes, which had neither masts, outriggers, nor sails, were propelled with neat paddles. Their dresses were chiefly flaxen mantles, edged with fur; and a kind of woollen blankets: sometimes they wore garments of skin. Their head was covered with a conical cap: but, on some occasions, they wore wooden vizors, or masks, curiously carved, to resemble the heads of eagles, wolves, porpoises, &c. When drest in such masks, and fur cloaks, they looked like wild beasts, or men-monsters. In one of their houses, were two rudely carved images. When the ships left the Sound, the natives, in a 27 402 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. ; Mendly way, attended to take leave of rthem; some m canoes, and some on boarcL A chief, who had attached himself to Capt, Cook, receiving a parting present, gave him a beaver skin in return; this being of considerable value, the Captain made him another present, upon which be insisted on giving him his beaver-skin cloak. Struck with his generosity, Captain Cook gave him a new broad sword, with a brass hilt; which made him com- ' plesbely foappy. He and his people pressed their British friends to return again ; and promised to provide a stock of furs for them. In the journal of the voyage, there are many other important remarks concerning this people, and the productions of their country; and in these remarks, we see the science of Mr. Anderson combined with the accurate observation of Capt. Cook. It is worthy of notice, that here, as on the coast of New Holland, our navigator found the night tides ^considerably higher than those of the day. In iibe evening of April 26th, the ships sailed out of Nootka Sound; and next day were overtaken by a tempest, during which the Resolution Sprang a leak, which at first seemed alarming, but was afterwards kept under by one pump. The weather continuing stormy for some days, our navigators did not venture to approach the land till Saturday, May 2nd, when the coast, in latitude <56°, appeared considerably indented with bays and inlets: many lofty hills were seen covered with snow, while the plains were clothed with wood. Among the mountains observed, in advancing northward, was Beering's Mount St. Elias, in 60°. 87' N. latitude. r—^ *L" PRINCE WILLIAM S SOUND. 403 On monday, the llthjjQapt. Cook landed on a small isle, which he named Kaye's Isle, abounding with pine-trees; and left here a bottle, containing an inscription, and two silver pennies. Next day he arrived at an extensive in^t, which he named Prince William's Sound: and here, in a spot named Snug Corner Bay, the lea^: of the Resolution was effectually shopped. The inhabitants of the Sound, who came off to the ships in canoes, were quite a different race from those of Nootka Sound; resembling, in their persons, habits, and dress, the Esquimaux and Greenlanders; and having the same kind of canoes, made of seal skins stretched on a frame of slender laths. Some were large enough to hold twenty people; others were adapted to hold one or two, having one hole, or two holes, to admit the persons of tho^e who sat in them. Their dresses were neatly made, of the skins of seals,, sea-otters, foxes, &c. : they had also water-proof cloajgg, for rainy weather, formed of a thin membranous substance like bladder. They were more cleanly than the people of Nootka, and were fonder of beads and other ornaments; having not only the ears, but the septum of the nose, perforated to receive various fancied decorations: nay* some of them had a long slit in the under lip, like a secondary mouth, which was also decked out with shells, bones, and beads. Some of their spears, knives, and arrows, were pointed with iron or copper, and some with bone; and these, with all their other implements, were ingeniously made. In their first approach to the ships, the natives SUftg.a kind of song, one Jield out a white garment, and ano^hor jStood wj^fli his arms extended, like a cross; bnjt they woujjd not come alongside* though 404 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. they accepted some presents thrown to them. On a subsequent day, after some of the sailors had stepped into their boats, a few of them ventured on board the Resolution; and among others, a good looking chief, who wore a conical cap, ornamented with blue beads. Several other visits were paid to both • ships, and a friendly trade was carried on, the natives exchanging furs, weapons, &c, for beads, and pieces of iron. Yet they were not more honest than other savages, and made some very daring attempts at robbery; for some of them went on board the Discovery, at an early hour, when they supposed the crew would be almost all asleep; and drawing their knives, to frighten the watch on deck, began to plunder; but when the crew, alarmed by the watch, began to come up, armed with cutlasses, the plunderers retired very deliberately in their canoes. They attempted, presently after, to take a boat that was in custody of two men, from under the very guns of the Resolution ; a clear proof that they were ignorant of firearms, of which their visitors still left them in ignorance. Finding no passage towards the north in this extensive inlet, our navigators returned to the open sea, on Wednesday, May 20th, passing on the west side of an island opposite the entrance, which was named Montagu Island. Steering in a S.W. direction, they arrived next day at a larger inlet, now called Cook's Inlet, the recesses of which they were, during several days, employed in exploring; particularly in examining a large navigable river that flowed into it, since named Cook's River, the course of which they traced upwards, as far as 61° 30' N. lat., 210° E. long.; where it was still a COOKS RIVER. 405 league in breadth, though more than 70 leagues from its entrance. Its course was nearly from north to south; the tides in it were strong, and rose above 20 feet. On the west side was seen a lofty mountain, in which was a volcano. The natives who lived on the banks of the river, were of the same race as those of Prince William's Sound. Many of them visited the ships in canoes, and sold furs, salmon, and halibut, for beads, old clothes, and pieces of iron. Their habitations were not visited, but Lieut. King landed on the east bank, to take formal possession of the river and country; displaying the British flag, and burying a bottle containing an inscription and some English coins. Mr. Law, who was of the party, bought a dog from the natives whom they met on shore, and shot it dead in their sight; which struck them with surprise and terror. On Saturday, June 6th, the vessels sailed from Cook's Inlet, and proceeded towards the southwest, in the direction of the coast; which was skirted with islands and rocks, with little interruption, as far as to Oonalashka, where they anchored, on the 28th, in Samganoodha harbour, in lat. 53° 55', long. 193° 30/ In their progress thither, our navigators saw on the continent, a conical hill, with a volcano in its summit. The inhabitants of some of the islands which they passed, were found to be no strangers to Europeans. At Schumagin's Islands, which were passed on the 19 th, some natives, in canoes, came under the Discovery's stern, and one of them, taking off his cap, and bowing politely, delivered to Capt. Clerke a thin wooden case, which contained a Russian letter, or memorial, with the date 1778, and a reference to %ffi COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. 1776. A similar document was presented to Capt* Cook at Oonalashka, but he returned it, with some presents; knowing that these letters must have heen left by some Russian Commander, with directions to put them on board the next Russian ship that might pass. Other natives met with in canoes, were observed to imitate European politeness, and one of them had on some European clothes. In approaching to Oonalashka, on the 26th, our voyagers had escaped imminent danger; they had cast anchor, on hearing the sound of breakers^ in a fog; and when it cleared away, the perils through which they had passed were discovered. " Two elevated rocks," says the Captain, " were about half a league each from us, and about the same •distance from each other. There were several breakers about them ; and yet Providence had, in the dark, conducted the ships through, between these rocks, which I should not have ventured in a clear day; and to such an anchoring place, that I could not have chosen a better." A point of land adjacent, is aptly termed Cape Providence. The inhabitants of Oonalashka and the neighbouring islands, like those of Prince William's Sound, resemble the Esquimaux and (xreenland- ers, both in their persons, their dress, and their canoes; while their manners are somewhat polished, through their intercourse with the RussiarlM They wear ornament £fi their §ars and nose, and some have them also in their lips* Thejr ti&ually take their fish and other food raw; although the Russians have taught them the use of pots and kettles, which a few of them possess. Their houses are oblong pits, sunk in the ground, BRISTOL BAY. 407 about 50 feet long by 20 feet broad, with a roof of wood covered with grass and earth, appearing above ground like a dunghill. They enter by a hole at one end, where a post with steps cut in it serves as a ladder; and there is a hole at the other end for a window. Different families live under one roof, arranged as in the dwellings at Nootka Sound; and the accommodations here are equally deficient in cleanliness. The houses are heated, as well as lighted, with lamps. The people are remarkably quiet and inoffensive. They bury their dead in elevated situations, covering them with heaps of stones, like the ancient tumuli in our own country. Leaving Oonalashka on thursday, July 2nd, our navigators proceeded to trace the American coast, which, from a point called Oonemak, near this island, makes a sudden turn towards the north-east. On the 9th, they arrived at the entrance of a large river, which was named Bristol River, in lat £&** 21', long. 201° 55': and the bay into which it falls was called Bristol Bay. From hence the coast takes a N.W. direction, and their progress in exploring it was much retarded by shoals and foggy weather. At a promontory, which was designated Cape Newenham, where the coast bends towards the north, Lieut. Williamson, by the Captain's direction, landed and took possession of the country in the usual form, leaving a bottle containing an inscription. On the 21st, near 30 natives came off to the ships in canoes; and some taifles being throwm them, they ventured alongside, and >traded with the seamen. They were of the same race as the people lately seen. On monday, August 3rd, when our navigators I "111 1 rf 1 • m 408 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. were in lat 62° 34', long. 192°, they sustained a serious loss by the death of Mr. Anderson, surgeon of the Resolution; who had long been lingering under a consumption. On this painful occasion, the Captain, after noticing his skill and talents, remarks; " The reader of this Journal, will have observed, how useful an assistant I had found him in the course of the voyage; and had it pleased God to have spared his life, the Public, I make no doubt, might have received from him such communications, on various parts of the natural history I of the several places we visited* as would have abundantly shewn, that he was not unworthy of this commendation." To perpetuate his memory, an island discovered that day, was named Anderson's Island. His first mate, Mr. Samwell was made surgeon of the Discovery, and Mr. Law was removed into the Resolution. On the 9th, Captain Cook arrived at the western extremity of America, which he named Cape Prince of Wales, in lat 65° 46', long. 191° 45': but a strong north wind arising, with rain and mist, he stood over to the westward, where land had been seen, which proved to be the continent of Asia; and here he entered a bay, which he named St. Laurence Bay, and landed with three armed boats, near a village of the Tschutski. About 30 or 40 men stood on a rising ground beside the village, each armed with a spontoon, a bow and arrows. Three of them approached the British, and taking off their caps, made a low bow, which the party returned; but when the latter advanced, the natives retreated, till Captain Cook following them, alone and unarmed, persuaded them to stop; when; an interchange of presents took place, followed by THE TSCHUTSK1. 409 a friendly traffic. Some of them treated their visitors with a song and dance; but all of them were very cautious, taking care to have their weapons near them. They were of a different race from the natives lately seen on the American shores, being stouter and taller: their clothing was of leather, or skins, well made; and their quivers, and spontoons or spears, were handsomely adorned. The latter were* of iron or steel, of European or Asiatic workmanship. Their ears were bored, to receive ornaments; but not their noses or lips. They set great value on knives, and tobacco. The village was found to contain both their summer and winter habitations; the former being large conical huts, the latter a kind of circular or oval vaults, communicating with vaulted under-ground store-rooms. About their habitations were several stages, 10 or 12 feet high, made of bone; on which they dry their fish and skins. They use sledges drawn by dogs. Their canoes are like those on the American coast After spending two or three hours with these people, the party returned to the ships; which*, having now a fair wind, proceeded toward the north-east; and at noon, on the 11th, were in the middle of Behring's (or Beering's) Straits, about seven leagues from each continent. Advancing northward, our navigators kept both continents in sight, till the evening of the 13th, when they lost sight of land. Next day, steering eastward, they saw the American coast, where a point of land, in lat 67° 45', long. 194° 51', was named by the Captain, Point Mulgrave, in honour of his noble friend, whose approach to the north pole would now very naturally come into his mind. Persever- 410 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. ing towards the north and east, he saw, on the 17th, a brightness in the northern horizon, which ^proved to be what is called the blink, reflected from ice; and in the afternoon, the ships were close to th%#dge of a large field of ice, in lat. 70° 41', long. 198°. Standing a little to the east and south, the Captain observed the extreme point of ike American coast, now visible, to be much encumbered with ice, and thence named it Icy Cape. Perceiving that the ships were in great danger of being caught between the ice and the shore, if they kept on an easterly course, he tacked, and stood to the westward; and, on the 19th, being dose to the main ice, where there were many hundreds of sea-horses (the wdlrm) lying in herds, huddled together like swine, our people killed several of l/hem, and took them on board for food; and as their flesh was more relished than salt meat, quantities of this matine beef were procured on subset-- quent days. On the 21st, the ships approached the American coast, at a point named Cape Lis- hwtae, in lat. 69° 5',iong. 194° 42'. No harbour could be seen on this coast; the shore was generally flat> with shoal water; the land had a greenish hue. Having advanced to the westward till Saturday, Aug. 29th, Capt Cook approached a rocky point on die coast of Asia, which ne earned Cape North, 1 in lat. 68° 56', king. 180° 51'; and jtedfaag himself unable to weather that Cape, or to discover «,n opening in ?the ice through which the ships could make their way, iai ^an^ direction, he was constrain* ed to |*ive up, till another season, the attempt to find a passage into the Atlantic. He therefore returned along the coast of Asia, to Behring's NORTON SOUND. 411 Straits; and, in the evening of Wednesday, Sept. 2nd, passed the East Cape of Asia, which he found to be in lat. 66° 6', long. 190° 22'; and only 13 leagues distant from Cape Prince of Wales, on the American continent. Advancing along the Asian coast, he passed the Bay of St. Laurence, and two other bays, came in sight of Tschukotskoi Noss, and of Behring's Island of St. Laurence; and then steered over to examine a part of the American coast, which had been left unexplored in the voyage northward. He Was the more desirous to survey this coast correctly, as he found the maps and charts of it* hitherto published, to be grossly erroneous : a large island called Alaschka, which he found to have no existence, being laid down in the strait between the two continents, while the space between them had been strangely magnified. On the 7th, the ships arrived off the American shore, and fallowing it to the eastward, came into an inlet, or bay, which was named Norton Sound; where they anchored on the 8th, in lat. 64° 31', long. 197° 13'. Several days were spent in exploring the sound, and the adjacent coast. The land was high in the interior, and woody on the shore: some parts were covered with heath; and quantities of wild currant-berries, hurtle-berries, heath-berries, &c.-, were collected. The na- tivBS* who were of the same race with those of Oonalashka, were vety civil and friendly; selling Salmon and otter fish, for ktiives and trinkets. The ships received here a supply of wood, with some frefeh water: and proceeded on the 18th, in a «o1S$hefrly iilfigc^otk, along the coast On arriving at t&e lattt&de of 63°, our navigators found the 412 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. water along the shore so shallow, that they were obliged to steer towards the westward. It was supposed that the shoals from hence to Cape Newenham, might be owing to a river flowing here into the sea; the water being muddy and rather fresh. After discovering an island, which was named Gierke's Island, in lat 63° 15', long. 190° 30'; Capt. Cook returned towards the coast, to search for a harbour; but finding none, he again steered to the south-west; passed an island which he named Gore's Island, and another which he called Pinnacle Island; and coming in sight of Oonalashka, on friday, October 2nd, he anchored next day with both ships in the harbour of Samganoodha. Here our navigator was visited by three Russian traders, and a Mr. Ismyloff, the principal Russian resident in these parts, who lived at Egoochshac, on the west side of the island. Civilities and presents were interchanged, and the Russians, particularly Mr. Ismyloff, gave the Captain much valuable information, as to the geography of this country, the voyages of the Russians, and the extent of their discoveries, in this part of the world. Two written charts were shewn him, which assisted him in adjusting his own, and in correcting the errors of former voyagers. Mr. Ismyloff took charge of a letter to the Admiralty, to be sent by the way of Kamtschatka. The Captain gave this intelligent gentleman a Hadley's octant; and to the person who was to take the letter to Petropaulowska, he gave a spying glass, as a token to Major Behm, Governor of Kamtschatka; for whom also Captain Cook received from Mr. Ismyloff, a letter of introduction, in the view of his touching at Kamtschat- SANDWICH ISLES. 413 ka for refreshments, in returning to the north next spring. During the stay of the ships, several of the British officers visited their Russian friends at their settlement, at Egoochshac, and were kindly welcomed. They had a dwelling-house, two storehouses, and a small sloop; and had a number of servants and dependants. On monday, Oct. 26th, the Resolution and Discovery sailed from Oonalashka, Capt. Cook proposing to revisit the Sandwich Islands; and, after spending the winter months there, to return northward in the spring, by way of Kamtschatka. Next day, they encountered heavy squalls and contrary winds; and the weather continuing boisterous for several days, they were driven hither and thither, and were in danger of being wrecked among the rocks and isles near Oonalashka. During these gales, a disaster happened on board the Discovery: the main-tack gave way, killed one man, and wounded the boatswain, with two or three more. The sails and rigging were also much damaged. At length, on thursday, Nov. 26th, Mowee, one of the Sandwich Islands, came in sight; and, upon reaching it, our navigators soon after observed Owhyhee, the largest of all the group; and were surprised to see the summits of its lofty mountains, which are above 15,000 feet high, covered with snow. These two islands being new discoveries, Captain Cook resolved to sail round them, and to survey their extent and position, and see what harbours and accommodations they afforded, before taking up his station at either. This service occupied several weeks, owing particularly to squally weather and contrary winds, which made it an arduous task to get round the south end of Owhyhee, where evi- 414 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. dent marks of <J§vastation, produced by a volcano, were discerned. In this tedious circumnavigation, the Discovery was parted from the Resolution about a fortnight. In the mean time, both ships approached the shore, at intersals, to trade for provisions, which the natives brought off in canoes. On their first arrival at Mowee, Captain Cook issued orders for regulating the trade with the na- twos, with a view to en;$$tj&- a proper supply of refreshments during the stay of the ships. He also prohibited the admission of women on board, except under certain resjtrie$}§ns. He found himself unable, however, to prevent them from entering the ships, in considerable numbers, even while sailing round the islands ; anjd many of them appeared to come with no other view than to make a surrender of their persons. It grieved him also to find, that the evil which he meant to prevent, had alreajjj been communicated at Oneeljeow, and from thence had spread hither among the natives. Another circumstance now occurred, which served likewise to lessen his esteem for his crew. Having brewed some very palatable beer froa% sugar c$ne, he wished to introduce it into gener#i use on board the slaps, to save the spirits for a colder climate; but when a cask was broached, not one of the crew would taste it: upon which he gave orders, that no grog should be served in either ship. He now learned for the first time, that they had almost resolved to refuse the spruce beer, at Nootka Sound : and he laments, in his journal, the backwardness of seamen to adopt any innovations on board, however salutary for ttiemseiMSfe- " Few commanders," he adds, f have int$q$luced into their ski$^ more novelties m usejgal yarjetie§ OWHYHEE. 415 of food and drink, than I have done. Indeed, few commanders have had the same opportunities of trying such experiments, or been driven to the same necessity of trying them. It has, however, been, in a great measure, owing to various little deviations from established practice, that I have been able to preserve my people, generally speaking, from that dreadful distemper, the scurvy, which has perhaps destroyed more of our sailors, in their peaceful voyages, than have fallen by the enemy in military expeditions." It was on Wednesday, January 6th, 1779, that the Discovery rejoined the Resolution, off the south-west side of Owhyhee. Both ships had been well supplied with provisions, by friendly trade with the natives, who generally came off in their canoes unarmed. When the ships had for some days slowly advanced to the northwar<d, along the west side of the island, they arrived, on Saturday the 16th, at a bay named Karakakooa, where they were visited by not fewer than 1000 canoes, mostly crowded with people, and well laden with hogs, fruits, and roots. Into this bay the ships were taken to refit; and when they were anchored, Capt. Cook felt great satisfaction, in viewing the interesting spot, and gazing on the surrounding multitude. " I had no where," he says, ? in the course of my voyages, seen so numerous a body of people assembled at one place: for, besides those who had come off to us in canoes, all the shore of the bay was covered with spectators, and many hundreds were swimming round the ships, like shoals of fish. We could not but be struck with the singularity of this scene; and perhaps there were few on board who now lamented our having failed in our endeavours 416 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. in to find a Northern passage homeward, last summer. To this disappointment we owed our having it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to enrich our voyage with a discovery, which, though] the last, seemed, in many respects, to be the mosti important that had hitherto been made by Europeans, throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean." Such are the words with which our hero closes his interesting journal. Alas! how short sighted is man! Little did he think, that the discovery in which he now exulted, would prove fatal to | himself; and that the people, whom he viewed i with such complacency, would become his destroyers ! The details in the following Chapter, are chiefly extracted from the journal of Lieut. King, afterwards Captain King; who wrote the last of the three volumes, in which the narrative of this voyage is comprised. im CHAPTER XXIII. The ships incommoded with crowds of natives; cleared by the chiefs. Thefts committed. Divine honours paid to Capt. Cook, as the god Orono; sacrifice offered to him at the morai. Reflections on the subject. Unfavourable circumstances of our voyagers, as to moral and religious improvement. Liberality and constant attachment of the priests. Effects of the taboo. Employments of our people. Visits of King Terreeoboo ; his munificence. Friendly conduct of the natives; dishonesty of many of them. Their athletic exercises. Death and burial of a seaman. Wood work and images of the morai purchased. Liberal parting presents to Captain Cook. The ships leave Karakakooa Bay: but receiving damage, in a gale, soon return. Thefts committed by the natives. Attack on the pinnace. The Discovery's cutter stolen. Measures taken for its recovery. Capt. Cook goes on shore to take the King on board: is opposed. News of the slaughter of a chief. Ferment among the natives: they threaten the Captain: he fires and kills one of them*. General attack on the party with stones, answered by a discharge of musketry. Fury of the natives : four marines killed. Death of Captain Cook. Unfortunate retirement of the launch which should have supported him. Treatment of his body by the natives. Negotiations for recovering it. Insolence of the natives. Village of Kakooa burnt* Bones of Capt. Cook recovered and interred. However gratifying it might be to our navigators to view the interesting groups that surrounded them, it was soon found to be extremely inconvenient to have the ships crowded with these new visitors. When hundreds of both sexes were on board, it was impossible to prevent pilfering on the part of the natives, or to maintain discipline among the 28 418 COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. crew, who could not attend to the necessary business of the ships. To get rid of this incumbrance, recourse was had to the authority of the chiefs, two of whom, Pareea and Kaneena, attached themselves to Captain Cook; and these, at his request, soon cleared the vessels of such troublesome intruders; who, at the command of their chiefs, jumped overboard: one fellow who lingered behind, was taken up by Kaneena in his arms, and cast into the sea. The chiefs, however, did not altogether put a stop to pilfering; for this good reason, that they themselves partook of the plunder, and when any thing of value was missing, it was generally traced into their possession. Koah, a little old chief, sometimes introduced common persons as chiefs, with a view to get possession of the presents made to them. This Koah, who was said to be a priest as well as a warrior, seems to have been the first that honoured Capt. Cook with a kind of divine adoration. When he was conducted into the cabin of the Resolution, he approached the Captain with great veneration, threw over his shoulders a piece of red cloth, the sacred cloth in which the idols of this country were arrayed; then stepping back a few paces, he made an offering of a small pig, which he held in his hand, while he uttered a prayer of considerable length. After dinner, when Captain Cook, with Messrs. King and Bayley, accompanied Koah on shore, four men carrying wands tipt with dog's hair, the sacred wands that were used in tabooing, marched before him, making loud proclamation respecting Orono: upon which, the whole crowd on the shore retired, except a few* who fell prostrate on the ground. The procession COOK WORSHIPPED AS A GOD. 419 went on, as directed by Koah, to a large morai, on the south side of the village Kakooa, at the head of the bay. Here was a solid pile of stones, about 40 yards long, 20 broad, and 14 in height; with a flat paved top, surrounded by a wooden rail, on which were fixed the skulls of the victims sacrificed on the death of the chiefs. In the adjacent area were some buildings, and on one side were five poles above 20 feet high, supporting an irregular scaffold. On arriving at the morai, the party were led towards two large wooden images, to which Capt. Cook was presented by a tall young man with a long beard, named Kaireekeea, who chanted a hymn along with Koah. They were then led towards the five poles, at the foot of which were twelve images, ranged in a semicircle, with a whatta, or altar, in the middle, on which lay a putrid hog, and under it pieces of fruits and roots. Koah, having placed the Captain under the whatta, took down the hog, and held it toward him; then, making a long speech or prayer, he let it fall to the ground, and led him to the scaffold, which with some difficulty they mounted together. And now approached, in solemn procession, ten men carrying a live hog, and a large piece of red cloth ; on drawing nigh, they fell prostrate ; and Kaireekeea meeting them, received first the cloth, and then the hog; the former being handed to Koah, was wrapped round the Captain, while the latter was offered before him. The two priests now began to chant, sometimes in concert, and sometimes alternately; and after this service had continued for some time, Koah let the hog drop, when he and the Captain descended from the scaffold. He then led him to the range of images, at which he snap- 420 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. ped his fingers, with some sneering words, as he passed; till reaching the central figure, which was covered with red cloth, he prostrated himself, and kissed it, which the Captain at his desire also did. From thence he led the Captain to a sunk area in the morai, where he seated him between two wooden idols, Koah supporting his right hand, while Lieutenant King supported the left. At this time, a second procession of natives arrived, with a baked hog, a pudding, and some fruits; and Kaireekeea, heading the procession, presented the pig before Capt. Cook, with solemn chanting, to which the rest made responses, closing with the name Orono. The natives then sat down, fronting the Captain and his supporters; and while some cut up the baked hog, and prepared the vegetables, others engaged in brewing ava: and when the ava had been handed round, and tasted, morsels of the flesh were distributed also. Pareea fed Mr. King, and Koah tried to feed Captain Cook; but the latter, remembering the putrid hog, could not swallow a morsel, especially as the old man did him the honour to chew it for him.—This closed the ceremony; and the Captain, after distributing some trifling presents among the natives, which pleased them much, returned on board, attended to the beach by the men with wands, and honoured by the prostrations of all whom he met. It is easy to see from this narrative, that the natives ranked our navigator among their gods; regarding him as the god Orono, a deified King, and hero, belonging to the fabulous age of their chronology. This Orono (or Rono), as Mr. Ellis states, had, according to their traditions, set sail) for a foreign country, in a singularly shaped canoe. ON cook's receiving adoration. 421 He was honoured by annual games, as well as public worship; and his return being expected, Captain Cook's arrival was considered as the fulfilment of their hopes. The people were taught that Orono was returned, and were invited to adore him. The idol clothed in red, was the image of Orono; and the Captain was decked in red cloth, as his appropriate dress. It is much to be regretted, that in this instance, our illustrious countryman suffered his curiosity to overcome his sense of duty* However eager he might be, to know the religious rites of this people, he ought not to have shared in their idolatries. As a Christian he was bound, both to refuse adoration to their gods, and to reject it when offered to himself. He acted honourably at Otaheite, in condemning the human sacrifice, which his curiosity induced him to witness; and now, when he saw plainly, that these wretched idolaters mistook him for a god, he ought to have remembered the conduct of Paul and Barnabas at Lystra, on a similar occasion, and have shuddered at the thoughts of accepting Divine homage. If the strength of his curiosity may be pleaded as an excuse for allowing this idolatry for once, no such plea can be advanced on behalf of its repetition; which took place a few days after, at the house, or temple, of Orono, with equal, if not greater solemnity ; not to speak of the more common tokens of adoration, almost daily offered to him by the priests or the people. It might, indeed, be thought good policy, to encourage this veneration of his person, as a means of ensuring his safety, and the comfort of his men; but if such was his object, it completely failed. On the 17th of January, he first accepted adoration 422 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. and sacrifice, and alas! on that day four weeks, he fell a sacrifice himself, and was torn in pieces; and Koah, Pareea, and other natives, who were chief actors in the idolatrous scenes, bore a principal part in the bloody tragedy that followed. It remains to be noticed, as a further subject of regret, that the day alluded to was the sabbath, when the officers and crew, instead of participating in the idolatries of pagans, ought to have been employed in the service of the true and living God. In perusing the narrative of this, as of the former voyages, the pious reader must have remarked, with sorrow, that the day of God, was rarely honoured by our mariners, above the other days of the week. With one solitary exception, no mention is made of their having divine service on that day, nor of their resting on it from their wonted labours or amusements. And here it may be stated as a subject of complaint, that in the arrangements for these voyages of discovery, no provision seems to have been made for the moral and religious improvement of the mariners. Had books of devotion been distributed on board, and a pious and intelligent chaplain appointed to each ship, or at least to each expedition, the officers and men, enjoying the advantages of public worship and spiritual instruction, might have been fortified against the temptations by which so many were overcome, and warned of those deviations from duty into which they were apt to stray. Thus also, some preparatory steps might have been taken, for introducing the blessings of Christianity among the interesting tribes which our countrymen discovered. Such objects well deserve to be attended to by the Government of a Christian country, which owes THE TABOO. 423 much of its high character and rank among the nations, to the ennobling influence of religion. They are objects closely connected with the efficiency of the naval service ; for the most respectable Commanders of our times have publicly testified, that pious seamen are ever the most valuable; the most faithful and trusty, the most patient and persevering, the most tractable and obedient, the most bold and unflinching. These reflections are not meant to insinuate, that our excellent navigator had become indifferent to the interests of religion and morality. His journal shews that he often exerted himself, though with small success, to restrain his men from vice; and it contains devout acknowledgments of Providence. Yet who that regards his memory, would not wish that, in the case mentioned, he had acted a part more becoming the Christian name ? The delusion of the natives, in taking him for their god Orono, produced immediate advantages to the British. They were allowed to select a field, for erecting their observatory and tents; and, to prevent intruders from disturbing them, the field was tabooed, the sacred wands being fixed round the wall that inriosed it. After this ceremony, no canoes durst land at the spot, no native would enter the holy ground, without special invitation, and no females could be prevailed on to approach. When presents were used to entice the latter, they invariably replied, that the Eatooa and the King would kill them, if they entered. At this very time, hundreds of females were annoying the people on board; and when it was necessary to clear the ship, two or three hundred women were frequently made to jump into the sea at once, where 424 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. they continued swimming and playing about ti& they could again procure admittance. The party on shore, commanded by Lieut. King, received a daily supply of hogs and vegetables, more than sufficient for their subsistence; while several canoes, loaded with provisions, were sent as punctually to the ships. This was done by direction of Kaoo, the venerable high priest, grandfather to Kaireekeea; and nothing was.asked or expected in return, it was considered as the payment of a sacred tribute. The priests, indeed, continued the warm friends of the British during their stay.; and, with the exception of old Koah, took no share in pilfering their property. The refitting of the ships, and the preservation of their stores, were at this time objects of much solicitude with our navigator: and while sailmakersy carpenters, and coopers, were employed on shore, as well as on board, in the necessary repairs; others were engaged, under his direction, in salting pork, to supply the ships during their protracted voyage. Hitherto it had been thought impractik cable to cure meat in tropical climates; but the Captain, ever bent on useful discoveries, and impelled in this instance by necessity, made the experiment; and by skilful management succeeded so completely, that some of the barrels of pork now pickled were brought home to England, and the meat, at the close of 1780, was perfectly sound and wholesome. King Terreeoboo, who had been from home, arrived on the 24th, when the whole bay was* tabooed for more than two days; no canoe visitedi the ships but by special licence, and no female was to be seen. On monday, the 25th, the Kingyv VISITS OF TERREEOBOO. 425 with his wife and children, paid a private visit to the ships; and was found to be the same aged chief who had gone on board the Resolution off Mowee, with 'some of his family and attendants, on the 30th of November; on which occasion, our people were not aware of his high rank. On tuesday, the 25th, he came off to the ships in great state; he and his chiefs, dressed in their rich feathered cloaks and helmets, and armed with long spears and daggers, being in a large canoe; followed by a second canoe, containing Kaoo and the other priests, with their gigantic and hideous idols, displayed on red cloth; and a third canoe, filled with hogs and vegetables. The priests sung hymns with great solemnity, while the canoes paddled round the ships; but instead of going on board, the royal and sacerdotal companies made for the shore, and landed opposite the tents, where Lieut. King and the guards were ready to receive them. Captain Cook arrived presently, having followed them in the pinnace; and when the royal party were seated in the tent, the King rose up, and in a very graceful manner threw his own cloak over the Captain's shoulders, put a feathered helmet on his head, and a curious fan in his hand. He spread also at his feet five or six other valuable cloaks, and exchanged names with him; while four large hogs, and a quantity of fruits, were brought by the attendants. A procession of priests advanced, followed by a long train of men, leading hogs, and carrying vegetables. Kaoo, the chief priest, who headed the procession, and having been from home with the King, was now for the first time introduced to Capt. Cook, brought a piece of red cloth, and wrapped it round his shoulders, and offered a 426 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. I f small pig in the usual form. Kaoo being then seated next the King, Kaireekeea and the other priests began their chanting, while Kaoo and the chiefs joined in the responses. The King and several of his retinue went on board with the Captain; who arrayed his Majesty in a linen shirt, and girt his own hanger round him. When the King went on shore, the taboo was removed at the Captain's request; so far as to permit the natives to trade with the ships. The behaviour of the natives continuing friendly and inoffensive, the gentlemen of both ships could trust themselves among them at all times; they took frequent excursions into the country, and sometimes remained all night. The boys and girls, at the different villages, amused them with songs and dances; and all whom they met with, were ready to serve them. When a large party, from both ships, went several miles into the country, to examine its productions, Kaoo sent provisions after them, and gave orders to the inhabitants to assist them. They were six days on their excursion, but did not see the great volcano of Kirauea, so well described by Mr. Ellis, in his Tour through Hawaii, or Owhyhee. The bounty of Terreeoboo also continued; and when Capt. Clerke, who had been in ill health, visited him for the first time, on the 28th, he received him very honourably, and gave him 30 large hogs, with a vast quantity of fruits and roots. Many, however, still annoyed our people with petty thefts; particularly in drawing nails out of the boats and ships; which their expertness in swimming and diving enabled them to do, without much risk of detection. One person, caught in DEATH OF WILLIAM WATMAN. 427 the acfen, was publicly flogged, as a warning to others* On the 28th, the natives entertained our people with a boxing match; and such athletic exercises, in which they were much inferior to the Friendly Islanders, were repeated at other times. Captain Cook, on his part, entertained them with a display of fire-works; at which they were greatly astonished. On thursday, Jan. 28th, died William Watman, an old gunner, long attached to the Captain, whom he had served in all his voyages. He had gone into Greenwich hospital with his beloved Captain, and quitted it with him, to follow his fortunes; and was now cut off by a paralytic stroke, only a few days before him. At the King's desire, he was buried at the morai; Kaoo and the other priests attended in silence, while the funeral service was reading; when the grave was filling up, they threw in a dead pig, with some cocoa-nuts and plantains; and for three nights following, they attended at the grave, sacrificing hogs, and chanting hymns and prayers, which continued till day-break. The ships being in great want of fuel, the Captain, through Mr. King, sought to purchase the wooden rails of the morai; which the priests readily granted, without stipulating for any return. The sailors, in removing the wood, carried off the whole semicircle of images; which Captain Cook observing, mentioned to Kaoo, who shewed no indignation at the sacrilege, but simply desired that the central image should be restored. As the resources of the country were beginning to be drained, by the vast supplies required for the 428 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. ships, the natives made frequent inquiries about the time of their departure. They fancied that our people had come from a country where provisions had failed, for the purpose of filling their bellies; and wondered that they had brought no women with them. They gave broad hints, that they had now got pretty well filled ; stroking the sides, and patting on the bellies of the sailors, whose looks; were much improved during their stay: and telling them, that if they would return next season, they should then be feasted liberally. The King's bounty, however, was not exhausted; for, having summoned his people to bring in their tribute, to enable him to give a parting offering to Orono, a public assembly was held, on Wednesday, Feb. 3rd, when the ships were about to sail; and immense quantities of hogs, vegetables, and cloth, were brought before the King; together with a large assortment of red and yellow feathers, and the hatchets and iron-ware which had been got from the British. Terreeoboo selected about a third part of the feathers and iron-ware for himself, with a few pieces of cloth; and then presented the rest of the cloth, with all the hogs and vegetables, to Captain Cook and Lieut. King; who were astonished at the magnitude of the present, as it far exceeded what they had received even at the Friendly Isles. Mr. King was supposed to be the Captain's son; and both Terreeoboo and Kaoo, who were warmly attached to him, begged that he might remain, and live with them. Early on thursday, Feb. 4th, the ships sailed out of the bay. Many natives accompanied them in canoes, in their progress northward; and the King, as a last proof of regard for Capt. Cook, sent RETURN TO KARAKAKOOA. 429 after him a large present of hogs and vegetables. Koah, who had changed his name to Britannee, accompanied the Captain to a large bay, called Toe-yah-yah. When the ships were off this bay, on the 6th, a storm began, which continued, with intervals, for part of three days; to the no small peril of the natives, who were sailing near them, some of whom were saved by the humane exertions of our seamen. In these gales, the fore-mast of the Resolution gave way, which made it necessary to go into some harbour to repair it; and the adjacent bay affording no safe anchorage, while it was uncertain whether a good harbour could be found in the islands to leeward, our navigator decided on returning to Karakakooa; little thinking, that this decision would lead to a fatal result. On the 11th, the ships regained their late anchorage ; the fore-mast was taken on shore by the carpenters, the tents and observatory were again set up at the morai; and the priests, to prevent interruption, again tabooed the spot. The bay was found nearly deserted, the crowds lately assembled here having retired to their respective homes. Terreeoboo paid a friendly visit to Capt. Cook, on the 12th; and his nephew, Maihamaiha, or Tamehameha, had previously visited Capt. Clerke, and spent a night, with his attendants, on board the Discovery; but some of the chiefs seemed less friendly than before. Pareea interfered unkindly in a bargain that was making for a hog; and on the 13th, several chiefs, and other natives, annoyed the watering party of the Discovery, and shewed some appearances of hostility; on which, directions were given to the guard to load with ball. And 430 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. I now, the natives, having begun to reassemble in the bay, again crowded the ships, and watched for opportunities to pilfer. A fellow being detected stealing the armourer's tongs from the forge, on board the Discovery, was flogged, and sent out of the ship; yet in the afternoon, another snatched the tongs and a chisel, with which he jumped over board, and swimming to a canoe, was paddled ashore. Pareea, who was then on board the Discovery, hastened ashore to recover the stolen goods. The thief, however, abandoning his plunder, fled into the country, and when the Master and a midshipman, who had been despatched after him in the small cutter, approached the shore, they met some natives in a canoe, bringing the articles back. The Resolution's pinnace, with five men, joining them, the Master thought his force sufficient to insist on having the thief surrendered, or the canoe that took him on shore. The thief had made his escape, and was pursued ineffectually, to a distance of two miles or more, by Capt. Cook, Lieut. King, and a! marine; who having observed that some muskets were fired after him from the Discovery, and having seen him land, supposed that he had carriecf off something of consequence. The thief being thus out of reach, the Master went to seize the canoe, which was hauled up on the beach; when Pareea appeared, and claimed it as his property; and his claim being* disregarded, he seized the officer, and held him by the hair, on which one of the sailors struck him with an oar. The chief quitting the Master, now snatched the oar, and broke. it in two across his knee; and presently after, the multitude, resenting the insult offered to their chief, attacked the British with stones. The ill V -*- QUARREL WITH THE NATIVES. 431 latter, after a short resistance, were obliged to abandon the pinnace, and make their escape; the men swimming to the small cutter, the two officers to a rock near the shore. The natives would have followed, and killed them; but Pareea interfered, and checked their violence. The officers begged him, to remain, till they got their boats off; but he refused, and left them. The Master was then proceeding towards the tents for help; but Pareea meeting him, constrained him to return; and the chief, finding the mob plundering the pinnace, beginning to pull her to pieces, and insulting the midshipman, who remained by her, again dispersed them; and having thus saved the boat, desired the gentlemen to return on board, bringing them some of the oars which the crowd had seized. They were glad to escape in safety; and Pareea soon overtook them in his canoe, and restored the mid- shipman's cap, and other articles, lost in the scuffle. He eagerly asked, if Orono would kill him for what had happened; and being assured to the contrary, he joined noses, in token of reconciliation, and paddled over to the village of Kowrowa, or Kaavaroa, on the north-west side of the bay. When Capt. Cook returned, and was informed of what had passed, he felt much uneasiness; and observed, in going on board, " I am afraid that these people will oblige me to use some violent measures;, for they must not be left to imagine, that they have gained an advantage over us." He immediately ordered all the natives to be turned out of the ships. Lieut. King posted a double guard at the observatory, where a few natives were seen to approach during the night; but they retired when they found themselves observed. Mournful 432 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. sounds, from the adjacent villages, were heard by the guards, supposed to be the lamentations of women. Notwithstanding the vigilance of our people, it was found in the morning of the ]4th, that the Discovery's large cutter, which lay swamped at the buoy of one of her anchors, had been stolen by the natives; a theft which they committed, as was afterwards learned, at the instigation of Pareea. When apprized of the robbery, Capt. Cook resolved, according to his usual plan, to endeavour to get the King on board, with a view to ensure the restoration of the cutter; and at the same time gave orders, that none of the canoes in the bay should be allowed to depart, that he might make reprisals on them, if necessary. About 7 o'clock, having sent Lieut. King, to take charge of the party at the tents, and try to still the minds of the natives there, he left the ship, with Lieut. Philips and nine marines, in the pinnace; the crew of which were also armed, under the command of Mr. Roberts. Foreseeing that danger might arise, he took the precaution to order Lieut. Williamson, who commanded in the launch, to leave the station* which he occupied at the north-west point of the bay, and come to support the pinnace. On his landing at Kaavaroa, with the marines, the Captain was received with the customary honours, the natives prostrating themselves before him. He was joined by Kaneena, his brother Koohowrooa, and1 other chiefs, who kept the crowd in order, and inquired if he wanted hogs, or other provisions.* The King's sons, two boys, who had often been his guests in the Resolution, also joined him. When he said that he wanted Terreeoboo, he was con- 1 ATTEMPT TO GET THE KING ON BOARD. 433 ducted to his house; and the King, having been awakened from his sleep, came forth to meet him, and readily accepted his invitation to go on board. He accordingly went with the Captain towards the water-side, and his boys got to the pinnace, into which the youngest, Keowa, presently entered; but when the King was within about 30 yards of the shore, his people, conscious of what had been done, crowded around to detain him, his wife Kanona besought him with tears not to go on board, and two chiefs taking hold of him, made him sit down. The Captain, loath to give up the point, urged him to go forward; but the natives, alarmed at the firing of guns and musketry in the bay, by those who were detaining the canoes, crowded more closely around; and Lieut. Philips, finding his men huddled close together in the crowd, led them out, with the Captain's consent, the natives opening a passage for them, and they were drawn up in a line along the rocks, close to the water's edge. The King, who was seated beside a double canoe, that had been hauled up hither, was again urged to rise and accompany his friend on board ; but the chiefs insisted on his staying: upon which, the Captain relinquished the attempt, observing to Mr. Philips, that he could not take the King on board by force, without the risk of killing a number of the inhabitants. Hitherto the person of our navigator seemed in no danger; but when he was quitting Terreeoboo, and walking towards the boats, a serious tumult arose among the crowd. A man arriving in great haste from the other side of the bay, exclaimed, " It is war!" and informed the people, that Karee- moo, a chief, had been shot by one of the Dis- 29 434 cook's HHrd VOYAGE. covery's boats.* Upon this, the arming of the j natives, which had previously begun, became gen- j era!, the women and children were sent off, and j the men proceeded to acts of insolence and hos- j tility. The Captain had been annoyed by an old I priest, who repeatedly offered him a cocoa-nut, 1 with loud singing and noise : and now old Koah approached, With a pahooa, or dagger, under his j cloak. Mr. Philips proposed to shoot him; but, ] the Captain forbidding it, he only struck him with j his piece, and made him retire. A man now seiz- j ed the sergeant's musket, when a blow from the | Lieutenant made him quit his hold. Another j native throwing a stone at the Captain, the lattefjj who carried a piece with two barrels, fired one at him, loaded with small shot. The fellow, wearing 1 a thick mat, was scarcely hurt, and brandished his spear, to dart it at Captain Cook, who, being still unwilling to take his life, knocked him down with his piece, instead of firing with ball. At this time, I Mr. Roberts, not aware of the impending danger, suffered Keowa to be put on shore; whereas, the detention-of the prince might have operated powerfully in restraining the hostility of the islanders. And now, a man behind a double canoe, being seen iii the act of darting his spear at the CaptaifiM the latter fired his other barrel, loaded with ball, and killed another who was active in the tumult J1 while the man who aimed at him was presently I shot by the sergeant. Upon this, the natives gave" back a little; but, being pushed on by those behind, returned to the charge, and poured a vol2e$l| * According to Mr. Samtrell's Narrative* this" in^elligertce arrived sooner • but, on this point, Capt. King's statement is the most natural. ill DEATH OF THE CAPTAIN. 435 of stones among the marines, who, without waiting for orders, returned it with a discharge of musketry, while the seamen in the boats began also to fire. At this Captain Cook expressed his astonishment, and waving his hand, called to the boats to cease firing, and to pull in. His voice, on account of the noise and confusion, was indistinctly heard; and while the pinnace came close in, Lieutenant Williamson, with the men in the launch, through some strange mistake or neglect, moved further off, at the very moment when their support might have saved their brave Commander, and the marines. The natives now rushed on with dreadful yells, and four of the marines, who had no time to reload, fell a sacrifice to their fury; other four were wounded, including Lieutenant Philips, who saved his life by shooting his antagonist; and, with the surviving marines, got into the pinnace. The Captain, who was loft alone on the rock, was making for the pinnace; when, a chief, named Karimano, following him, after some hesitation, struck him on the back of the head, with a large club, and then precipitately retreated. Stunned by the blow, he staggered a few paces, fell on his hand and one knee, and dropped his musket. As he was rising, a wretch, called Nooah, stabbed him in the back of the neck with an iron dagger, and he fell into a bite of water about knee deep. Here the natives, crowding upon him, tried to keep him under; but struggling powerfully with them, he got his head up, and cast a look towards the pinnace; which was only ^.ve or six yards off, yet was unable, it seems, to save him. The natives again pressed him down, in deeper water: he was able, however, to get his head up once more, and turn- 436 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. ing to the rock, tried to cling to it, when another blow with a club deprived him of life. They then hauled him up lifeless on the rocks, and snatching the dagger from each other's hands, shewed a savage eagerness to have a share in his destruction. The fatal event occurred about 8 o'clock, only an hour after he had landed. Such was the lamentable end of the most illustrious of navigators. It is painful to think, that he who had done so much to preserve the lives, and increase the comforts, of the savages of the Pacific, should thus fall by their hands ; and that some of the improved implements with which he furnished them, should be employed to destroy him. Kaneena had purchased a large dagger, for a hog, only the day before; and this dagger was probably used in the bloody tragedy. It is still more deplorable to reflect, that a Commander who had made it his constant study to promote the welfare of his officers and crew, should have been deserted by some of them in the hour of peril, and left to perish before their eyes in the hands of barbarians, when a vigorous effort on their part might perhaps have saved him. Even the recovery of his lifeless body was an object worth contending for; and five young midshipmen, who arrived in a small boat at the close of the fatal business, saw the beach almost entirely deserted by the natives, who had been dispersed by the fire of the boats, and some shots from the Resolution; so that the body might have been recovered without much difficulty: yet the Lieutenant returned on board, without making the attempt. Whether the late order for stopping their grog, had somewhat alienated the affections of the seamen from their otherwise beloved Cap- TREATMENT OF HIS BODY. 437 tain; or whether they were seized with a temporary panic, confusion, or infatuation, amidst scenes so appalling; the fatal result wiU .ever be|remembered with the most poignant grief. When their paroxysm of rage had spent itself, the natives themselves, as Mr. Ellis relates, bewailed the foul deed which their hands had done. Their ideas of the Captain's divinity were 'indeed lowered; for when they saw his blood, and heard his groans, they said, | No, this is not Orono :" yet they still regarded him as a chief of the first rank. His body was taken j&om the beach, and deposited in a cave above the village, from whence it^Was removed to an adjacent height, and there disposed of in the same way as the body of a native chief. It was cut in pieces, and the flesh, after being separated from the bones, was burnt; the bones being reserved as objects of veneration. This kind of funeral, however barbarous in our view, they regarded as the most honourable. The spot where the body was burnt, is described by Mr. Ellis, as a small inclosure, about 15 feet square, with a kind of raised hearth in the midst, where fragments of charcoal still remain. But the natives had losses of their own to lament. Seventeen were slain at Kaavaroa, among whom were Kaneena, Koohowrooa, and other three chiefs; and at the observatory, where the commencement of a hostile attack made it necessary to fire on the assailants, eight more were shot, including three persons of rank. In that quarter, a truce was agreed to, through the medium of the friendly Ipsfests; and the?Jl8ing ceased, on condition that our (people should not be interrupted, in removing the observatory, tents, sails, 438 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. Iff and mast; which were now safely conveyed on board. Many of the officers and men were eager to revenge the death of their beloved Commander, by an immediate attack on the natives : but, on various accounts, more moderate counsels prevailed. Lieut. King was sent, with some armed boallf, to Kaavaroa, to demand the dead bodies, especially that of Capt. Cook; and to threaten the islanders with vengeance, in case of a refusal. Perceiving that the natives expected a hostile attack, he left the armed boats, and advanced alone in a small boat, with a white flag in his hand; at the sight of which, the people raised a shout of joy, an$extending their arms, invited him on shore. Koah immediately swam off to the boat with a white flag also; and although little confidence could be placed in this treacherous chief, he was employed to communicate the demand to the other chiefs, and made fair promises of restoring the bodies. Koah visited the ships frequently on the 15th, but alleged various excuses for delaying to fulfil his word. In the evening, two persons came in a canoe, from Kaoo and the priests, and delivered up a portion of the flesh of the Captain, which had been allotted to them for a religious use; and they stated that the rest was burnt, the bones remaining with the chiefs. They shed many tears for the fatal deed, asked when the Orono would come again, and what he would do to them on his return. Being asked if any part of the bodies had been eaten, they expressed their horror at such an idea: by which it appeared, that Capt. Cook was mistaken, in supposing, as noticed in p. 395, that these islanders avowed themselves cannibals. These men INSOLENCE OF THE NATIVES. 439 cautioned our people to beware of Koah, who was not their friend. The forbearance of the British encouraged the insolence of the natives, some of whom had the audacity, to wave in triumph on the beach, the sword, the scabbard, the hat, and the clothes, of the illustrious dead. This insult inflamed the rage of the crew; and Captain Clerke, who had taken the command of the Resolution, while Lieut. Gore was made Captain of the Discovery, gave orders to fire some great guns at the people on the shore. Soon after, Koah came off in great haste, to prevent further hostility; stating that some people had been killed, and among others, Tamehameha, the King's nephew. It turned out, however, that this chief was only wounded. He lived to become King of Owhyhee, and of all the Sandwich Islands; and filled the throne in 1792, when Capt. Vancouver (now a midshipman in the Discovery) visited and explored these islands, as well as the American coast; carrying on the researches in these seas, which his great Commander had so well begun. Tamehameha had a glorious reign of 30 years, and was succeeded, in 1819, by his son Tamehameha, or Rihoriho, who, with his Queen, visited London, where they both died of the measles, in 1824. Soon after Koah's arrival, two boys swam off from the morai, towards the ships, having each a long spear in his hand; and after lamenting the death of Orono, in a plaintive song, they came on board the Discovery, delivered their spears, and then returned on shore. Next day, which was Wednesday, the 17th, when a large party was taking in water for the ships, the natives harassed them much by throwing stones: 1..-1 440 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. upon which, orders were given to burn down a few straggling houses near the well, where the assailants were sheltered. In executing these orders, our people were hurried into acts of unnecessary cruelty and devastation. The whole village of Kakooa was set on fire; and several of the natives were wantonly shot, in making their escape from the flames. Even the dwellings of the priests, the steady friends of the British, perished in the conflagration, with much valuable property, a great part of which had been received as presents from the ships. After this disaster, Kaireekeea, and 15 or 20 boys, came towards the shore, in a procession, bearing in their hands green boughs, plantains, and pieces of white cloth. Being taken, at his desire, on board the Resolution, this young priest stated the losses of himself and his brethren, and justly expostulated with the British on their unkindness and ingratitude. Doleful cries and lamentations had been heard on shore every night, from the commencement of hostilities, and this night they were more dreadful than ever. In the morning of the 18th, Koah came off again, and approached the ship's side, singing his song, and offering Lieut. King a hog and some plantains; but his offering was now rejected, and he was ordered never to appear again without Captain Cook's bones. In the evening, Eappo, a chief of high rank, came with presents from Terreeoboo, to sue for peace. The presents were accepted ; but he also was assured, that war would continue, till the Captain's remains were delivered up. The natives, now made sensible of the power of their visitors, brought off to them many presents of fruits and roots. At last, after some further HIS FUNERAL. 441 messages had passed between Captain Clerke and Terreeoboo, a solemn procession came to the beach, in the forenoon of the 20th, preceded by two drummers and a white flag, and after depositing some presents, retired; when Eappo appeared in his long feathered cloak, bearing in his hands, with great solemnity, the bones of the illustrious Captain, wrapped up in new cloth, and covered with a cloak of black and white feathers. Capt. Clerke, who judged what he was bringing, went off to receive his precious charge. The parcel contained the two hands entire, most of the head, with the bones of the arms, thighs, and legs. Some more bones were brought next morning, the 21st, by Eappo and the King's son; with some articles that belonged to the Captain. They were directed to taboo all the bay, which they did on going ashore; and in the afternoon, the remains of the great navigator, having been put into a coffin, were committed to the deep, with the funeral service, and military honours; amidst the tears and sobs of the officers and crew, whom he had so long and so honourably commanded. It was understood, that the rest of Capt. Cook's bones had been burnt; but it has since been ascertained, that all the bones of the trunk, with the rest that were missing, were preserved by the natives as sacred relics^and deposited in the temple of Rono, where they received divine honours, as f&fcrt of that god. These relics, contained in a basket covered with red feathers, were annually carried round by the priests, to other temples, to collect offerings for the service of Rono. Mr. Ellis could not ascertain where these remains were deposited, at the abolition of idolatry, in 1819. CHAPTER XXIV. fi It Sequel of the voyage. Its publication. Cook's death universally lamented. His high character acknowledged, and his memory honoured. Respect shewn to his family. Notices- of his relations. Monuments erected to his honour. Happy results of his Voyages. To complete the history of our lamented navigator^ it will be proper to glance at the sequel of the voyage, in which he was prematurely cut off.—On the day after his funeral, the ships left Owhyhee, and passing other islands of this group, anchored at Atooi, on monday, March 1st. Here the natives were disorderly, and interrupted the watering parties ; owing to the absence of the principal chiefs, who had been engaged in a war with the people of Oneeheow, on account of the goats left by Capt. Cook. The poor goats, which had increased to six, were killed during the struggle. Quitting the Sandwich Isles, on the- 15th of March, our voyagers proceeded towards Awatska Bay, and anchored there, in the harbour of Petro- paulowska, on the 29th of April. In their progress thither, they ascertained the nonexistence of lands said to have been seen by John de Gama: At Petropaulowska, where a dangerous leak in the Resolution was stopped, they met with poor accommodations, but kind treatment. Capt. Gore, Lieutenant King, and Mr. Webber, paid a visit to Major Behm, at Bolcheretsk, the capital of Kamtschatka; travelling partly in boats, and partly in SEQUEL OF THE VOYAGE. 434 sledges drawn by dogs. At a Russian ostrog, or village, on their way, they met with an old pewter spoon with London stamped on the back; an incident which awakened many pleasant thoughts, anxious hopes, and tender remembrances. Major Behin and his lady, with the officers and merchants at Bolcheretsk, treated them with uncommon politeness, hospitality, and bounty. The Major returned with them to the ships, furnished them with 20 bullocks, 90001b of flour, and quantities of tea, sugar, fish, &c.; for all which he would take no payment, alleging that the Empress would feel obliged by his doing every thing in his power to supply the wants of navigators, who were employed for the general advantage of mankind, and were entitled to the privileges of citizens, in whatever country they might be thrown. Besides these public stores, he gave private presents to the officers and men, to the value of £200; and Madame Behm sent butter, honey, rice, figs, &c. for Capt. Clerke; who also, on account of his declining health, received daily supplies of bread, milk, butter, and fowls, from a kind priest at Paratounca. Our voyagers testified their gratitude to the utmost of their power; shewing the generous Governor the charts of their discoveries, presenting him with maps and prints belonging to Cook's second voyage, and a large assortment of the curiosities which they had on board; sending his lady a dozen or two of Cape wine, and presenting a watch to his son, and earrings to his daughter. The gratitude of the seamen must not be forgotten. The Major presented them with above 4001b of tobacco, as the gift of himself and his garrison; and the noble-minded fellows were so struck with the liberality of their I i 1 II Hal 444 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. Russian friends, that they generously desired their grog to be stopped, that the brandy, which was here scarce and valuable, might be presented, in their name, to the garrison of Bolcheretsk! Capt. Clerke, and the rest of the officers, did not suffer them to lose much by this spontaneous sacrifice, supplying them with rum, in lieu of the small quantity p| brandy which the Major was prevailed on to accept! A circumstance occurred at this time, affording a pleasing illustration of the advantage of treatiajf savages with kindness; being a result of the friendly visit which Captain Cook paid to the Tschutski. This warlike tribe, the Russians had repeatedly, but ineffectually, attempted to subdue, or to bring into alliance with them : hut what they had long tried to effect by force, Captain Cook had quickly accomplished for them by mildness and goodness. The savages, not knowing any other Europeans, had taken the British for Russians; and, impressed with the friendly conduct of their visitors, they had lately sent a party to the nearest Russian fort, with propositions of friendship, and a voluntary offer of tribute; alleging as the cause of this peaceful measure, the great kindness experienced by them from the officers and crew of two ships* Major Behm, who received this news on the day when Captns. Gore and King visited him, could not have known what the savages alluded to, had not these officers furnished a key to open the mystery of this pacific negociation. Thus, through the effect of British benevolence, the Russians were, in some sort, requited beforehand, for their generosity* to our seamen; and, at the same time, received a salutary lesson, on the best means of extending their commerce and their power. A further reward SEQUEL OF THE VOYAGE. 445 awaited Major Behm (afterwards Colonel Behm) ; for after the arrival of the ships at home, the Lords of the Admiralty sent him a magnificent piece of plate, with an appropriate Latin inscription, as a token of British gratitude. Another benefit, derived also from Capt. Cook, was conferred on the Russians by their visitors. The soldiers at Petropaulowska, and the rest of the Russian inhabitants, were found, on their arrival, to be in a deplorable state with scurvy. Capt. Clerke put them all under the care of the surgeons of the ships, who treated them with sour-krout, sweet- wort, &c, according to the method of Capt. Cook; and their recovery was speedy and surprising. On the 13th of June, the ships weighed anchor, and on the 16th they got clear of Awatska Bay; at the entrance of which, they were annoyed by the smoke and ashes of a volcano on the north side of it. From thence our navigators traced the prominent points of the coast of Asia northward, and passed the three small Isles of St. Diomede, in the middle of Behring's Straits, on the 5th of July. In proceeding to the north and east, their progress was stopped by the ice, as in the former year; and after searching in vain for an opening through the ice, during more than three weeks, and encountering no small peril and damage, it was at last decided to give up the attempt as hopeless, and return home; a decision which gave great joy to all on board. Repassing Behring's Straits, on the 30th of July, they made the coast of Kamtschatka, on the 21st of August; and next day Capt. Clerke died of consumption, symptoms of which had appeared before he left England. The ships arriving at Petropaulowska, or the town of St. Peter and 446 CO OK S THIRD VOYAGE. ■ ;TO St. Paul, on the 24th, Captain Clerke was buried there, on the 29th; the worthy priest who had kindly ministered to his wants, attending the funeral. An escutcheon, in honour of the deceased, was put up in his church ; which contained pictures of St. Peter and St. Paul, with rich draperies of solid silver plates, presented by Behring. Capt. Gore now removed into the Resolution, and Lieut. King was made Captain of the Discovery. Leaving Awatska Bay, on the 9th of October, our navigators ran along the coast of Kamtschatka, the east side of the Kurile Isles, and the Japan Islands, and reaching the Chinese coast at the end of November, anchored off Macao, on Wednesday, Dec. 1st. Here, and at Canton, which Capt. King visited, the officers and crew got a good market for their furs, which brought them above £2000: so that the men were eager to return to Cook's River, for another cargo, to make their fortunes. Hearing of the progress of the war in Europe and America, the officers put the ships in trim for fighting; at the same time resolving to take no prizes, but observe a strict neutrality, as they understood that none of the belligerents would molest them. They sailed from Macao, January 12th, 1780; spent a week at Pulo Condore, where they bought some buffaloes; watered at Prince's Island, in the Straits of Sunda; and arrived at the Cape of Good Hope, April 12th. From thence they set sail for England, on the 9th of May; and arriving off the west coast of Ireland, they steered to the northward, and anchored at Stromness, Aug. 22nd. They afterwards arrived safe at the Nore, on the 4th of October, after an absence of 4 years, 2 months, and 22 days; during which the PUBLICATION OF THE VOYAGE. 447 Discovery did not lose a single man by sickness, and the Resolution only five. Such was the salutary effect of Capt. Cook's regulations for preserving health. A Journal of the voyage, in one volume 8vo, hastily got up, and abounding with inaccuracies, was published early in 1781 : but, owing to the time required for engraving 86 plates, furnished at the expense of Government, the authorised narrative of the Voyage to the Pacific Ocean did not appear till the summer of 1784; when it came forth in 3 volumes/$kto, with an admirable Introduction by Dr. Douglas, (afterwards Bishop of Carlisle, and Salisbury); price £4 14s. 6d. Notwithstanding this long delay, such was the unprecedented eagerness of the public to obtain these precious volumes, that on the third day after publication, not a single copy remained with the bookseller. Some who were disappointed, offered 6, 8, and evemlO guineas for a set. A second edition was published next year. The volumes, so justly esteemed, were read with a painful interest; the public being sensible, that the discoveries which they record, were purchased at a price too dear. A separate narrative of the Captain's death, which has been made use of in the foregoing chapter, was published by Mr. Sam well, Surgeon of the Discovery. The news of our great navigator's death reached the Admiralty on the I lth of January, 1780, in a letter from Capt. Clerke, sent from Kamtschatka with Capt. Cook's journal, through the hands of Major Behm: but the particulars were not fully known till the arrival of the ships. The heartrending tidings produced universal grief: he was 30 ■■;■! •If 448 LIFE OF COOK. lamented, not only as one of his country's brightest ornaments, but as the common friend of mankind. Many tears were shed, and many pens were employed, to express the bitter sorrow felt on this occasion: while the high encomiums bestowed on his character, genius, and achievements, marked the extent of the loss sustained by Britain, and by the world. As the most prominent features of his character have been already delineated in this sketch of his life, it is scarcely necessary to exhibit them here; yet it may be proper to glance at one or two of those pictures of his moral and intellectual worth, that were now drawn. That of Mr. Sam well may be selected, as furnishing also an accurate description of his person. " The character of Captain Cook will be best exemplified by the services he has performed, which are liniversally known, and have ranked his name above that of any navigator, of ancient or of modern times. Nature had endowed him with a mind vigorous and comprehensive, which in hia riper years he had cultivated with care .and industry. His general knowledge was extensive and "Various; in that of his own profession he was unequalled. With a clear judgment^ strong masculine sense, and the most determined resolution,— with a genius peculiarly, turned for enterprise, be pursued his object with unshaken perseverance :— vigilant and active in an eminent degree; cool and intrepid among dangers; patient and firm under difficulties and distress; fertile in expedients; great and original in all his designs; active and resolved in carrying them into execution. These qualities rendered him the animating spirit of the expedi- HIS HIGH CHARACTER. 449 tion: in e3rayy situation he stood unrivalled and alone; on him all eyes wer$ turned; he was our leading # gtar, whichi/af i^ setting, left us involved in darkness and despair." " His constitution was strong ; his mode of living temperate. He Tfas a modesj;/&ia#, an«| rather ^a^hful; of an agreeable lively conversation, sensible and intelligent. In temper he was somewhat ha$ty, but of a disposition the most friendly, benevolent, and humaa&^sJJis person was above six feet high; and, though a good-looking man, he was plain tajth in address and appearance. His face was full of expression; his nose exceedingly well shaped; his eyes, which were small, and of a brown cast, were quick and piercing; his eyebrows prominent, which gave his countenance altogether an air of austerity." j f He was beloved by his people, who looked up to him as to a father, and obeyed his commands with alacrity. The confidence we placed in him was unremitting; our admiration of his great talents unbounded; our esteem for his good qualities affectionate and sincere." To ttrjs testimony of Mr. Samwell, which is not quoted at full length, may be added that of a gentleman, who at one time seemed his adversary. Dr. Forster, in his History of Northern Voyages, after a brief account of the Captain's death, describes his worth in the following terms : " Thus fell this truly glorious and justly admired navigator. If we consider his extreme abilities, both natural and acquired, the firmness and constancy of his mind, his truly paternal care for the crew intrusted to him, tjhe amiable manner with which he knew how to gain the friendship of all the 450 LIFE OF COOK. savage and uncultivated nations, and even his conduct towards his friends and acquaintance, we must acknowledge him to have been one of the greatest men of his age, and that reason justifies the tear which friendship pays to his memoi^v Many were the tributes of respect which the poets of his country offered on this occasion. One of the earliest was Miss Seward's Elegy; from which the following pathetic lines, relating to his bereaved widow, may be extracted as a specimen. But ah !—aloft on Albion's rocky steep, That frowns incumbent o'er the boiling deep, Solicitous and sad, a softer form Eyes the lone flood, and deprecates the storm. Ill-fated matron !—for, alas! in vain Thy eager glances wander o'er the main ! 'Tis the vex'd billows, that insurgent rave, Their white foam silvers yonder distant wave, *Tis not his sails!—thy husband comes no more ! His bones now whiten an accursed shore !— Retire; for hark ! the sea-gull shrieking soars, The lurid atmosphere portentous low'rs ; Night's sullen spirit groans in ev'ry gale, And o'er the waters draws the darkling veil, Sighs in thy hair, and chills thy throbbing breast; Go, wretched mourner! weep thy griefs to rest I The Morai, an Ode, by Miss Helen Maria Williams, is another piece that deserves to be noticed. After describing the charms, and the funeral rites, of Otaheite, and the philanthropy of Cook, whose grave the nations ought to "Stress in lavish flowers," the fair author thus concludes :— Ah no 1—around his fatal grave No lavish flowers were ever strew'd, No votive gifts were ever laid— His blood a savage shore bedew'd ! His mangled limbs, one hasty prayer, HIS MEMORY HONOURED. 451 One pious tear by friendship paid, Were cast upon the raging wave I Deep in the wild abyss he lies, Far from the cherish'd scene of home; Far, far from Her whose faithful sighs A husband's trackless course pursue; Whose tender fancy loves to roam With him o'er lands and oceans new: And gilds with Hope's deluding form The gloomy path-way of the storm. Yet, Cook ! immortal wreaths are thine ! While Albion's grateful toil shall raise The marble tomb, the trophied bust, For ages faithful to its trust; While, eager to record thy praise, She bids the Muse of History twine The chaplet of undying fame, And tell each polish'd land thy worth ; The ruder natives of the earth Shall oft repeat thy honour'd name: While infants catch the frequent sound, And learn to lisp the oral tale, Whose fond remembrance shall prevail Till time has reached his destin'd bound. Had our limits permitted, extracts might also have been given from an Ode by Mr. Fitzgerald, and some verses by the late Miss Hannah More: but the following lines from Cowper must not be omitted: When Cook—lamented, and with tears as just As ever mingled with heroic dust, Steer'd Britain's oak into a world unknown, And in his country's glory sought his own, Wherever he found man, to nature true, The rights of man were sacred in his view; He sooth'd with gifts, and greeted with a smile, The simple native of the new-found isle; He spurn'd the wretch, that slighted or withstood ! ffltt- 45$ LIFE OF COOK. The tender argument of kindred blood, Nor would endure, that any should control His freeborn brethren of the southern pole. But though some nobler minds a law respeef^: That none shall with impunity neglect, In baser souls unnumber'd evils meet, To thwart its influence, and its end defeat; While Cook is lov'd for savage lites he sav'd, See Cortez odious for a world enslav'd ! In France, as well as in Britain, the great navigator was lamented. M. 1' Abbe Lisle concludes his poem (Les Jardins' with an encomium on Cook, of which the following lines are a translation :— Give, give me flowers; with garlands of renown Those glorious exiles' brows my hands shall crown, Who nobly sought on distant coasts to find, Or thither bore those arts that bless mankind : Thee chief, brave Cook, o'er whom, to nature dear, With Britain, Gallia drops the pitying tear. To foreign climes, and rude, where nought before Announc'd our vessels but their cannons' roar, Far other gifts thy better mind decreed, The sheep, the heifer, and the stately steed; The plough, and all thy country's arts; the crimes Atoning thus of earlier savage times: With peace each land thy bark was wont to hail, And tears and blessings fill'd thy parting sail. Receive a stranger's praise ! Nor, Britain, thou Forbid these wreaths to grace thy hero's brow, Nor scorn the tribute of a foreign song, For Virtue's sons to every land belong : And shall the Gallic muse disdain to pay The meed of worth, wftefc Louis leads the way ? Other nations participated in the same feelings. Baron Plettenberg and the Dutch officers at the Cape, were much affected at seeing the ships notices o&m $&$sahY. 453 return without their illustrious Commander. The Governor resolved to place the portrait of Cook, between the pictures of Van Tromp and De Ruyter, and desired to have it purchased at any price. To honour his name and memory, the Royal Society struck an elegant medal, bearing on one side the head of Capt. Cook in profile, with the inscription JAC COOK OCEANI INVESTIGATOR ACERRI- mus; and on the exergue, reg. soc. lond. socio suo: on the reverse, Britannia holding a globe, with the inscription, nil intentatum nostri liquere ; and on the exergue, auspiciis georgii hi. They were struck in gold, silver, and bronze. A gold medal was given to each of the subscribers of twenty guineas; among whom were, Sir Joseph Banks; the Prince of Anspach, the Duke of Montagu, and Lord Mulgrave. Gold medals were also presented to the King, the Queen, and the Prince of Wales; to the Empress of Russia, and the King of France; also, to Mrs. Cook, the Earl of Sandwich, Dr. JBenjamin Franklin, and a few other distinguished friends. His amiable widow, and three surviving children, were treated with that sympathy and respect to which they were so well entitled. As he had sacrificed their interests, as well as his own life, in the service of his country; so, within three weeks after the news of his death arrived, a pension of £200 a year was settled on Mrs Cook, and £25 a year on each of his three sobs. Half the profits arising from the publication of the Voyage, were also assigned them when the work was published; and, as a further token of respect, a coat of arms, m#^appropriate bearings, was afterwards granted to the family. I 1 u 454 life of cook* One of his three sons, Nathaniel, a fine promising youth, who was brought up in the naval service, did not live to enjoy his pension; being lost in the Thunderer, October 3rd, 1780. The youngest son, born a few weeks before the Captain sailed on his last voyage, and named Hugh, after his friend and patron Sir Hugh Palliser, was an under-graduate at Christ's College, Cambridge, where he died of a fever, in 1793. James, the eldest son, was bred to the sea, and rose to the rank of Commander in the Navy; but unfortunately perished in attempting to get on board the Spitfire, of which he was Captain, in 1794. Mrs. Cook survived her husband and children many years. She was alive when this work went to the press (See p. 12); but has since gone the way of all living. She appears to have uniformly conducted herself in a manner becoming the widow of so great a man. For many years she has lived in retirement; yet her faculties, naturally vigorous, were strong to the last; her affections were still warm, and her feelings acute. Her sight also did not fail, and being near-sighted, she could, even in her 94th year, read without spectacles. She always spoke of her husband as f poor dear Mr. Cook;" and, even to the present year, when the anniversary of his death returned, she suffered violent spasms, and was confined to her room. She had similar sensations in stormy weather, two of her sons having perished in storms. Her liberality and kindly feelings continued unimpaired: not long before her death, she sent several things to the Captain's relations, which she thought they would prize; and her valuable medal of him, she sent to the British Museum, only two days before notices of his family. 455 she died. She left, by will, £1000 to the parish of Great St. Andrew's, Cambridge, for keeping the family monument, which she erected there, in perfect repair; and for relieving yearly six poor widows, householders, not receiving parochial relief. The inscription on the mural monument in the church of St. Andrew, the Great, is a family record, her own name being added since her interment here. It is as follows: In Memory of Captain James Cook of the Royal Navy, one of the most celebrated Navigators, that this or former ages can boast of; who was killed by the natives of Owhyhee in the Pacific Ocean, on the 14th day of February, 1779; in the 51st year of his age. Of Mr. Nathaniel Cook, who was lost with the Thunderer Man of war, Captain Boyle Walsingham, in a most dreadful hurricane, in October, 1780, aged 16 years. Of Mr. Hugh Cook, of Christ's College, Cam- bridge, who died on the 21st of December, 1793 ; aged 17 years. Of James Cook, Esqr. Commander in the Royal Navy, who lost his life on the 25th of January 1794; in going from Pool to the Spitfire sloop of war, which he commanded; in the 31st year of his age. Of Elizth. Cook, who died April 9th 1771; aged 4 years. Joseph Cook, who died Sept. 13th 1768; aged 1 month. George Cook, who died Oct. 1st, 1772; aged 4 months. 456 LIFE OF COOK. If hi All children of the first mentioned Capjg$fames Cook, by Elizabeth Cook, who survived her husband 56 years, and departed this life, 13th May, 1835, at her residence, Clapham, Sqgggsey, in the 94th year of her age. Her remains are deposited With those of her sons James and Hugh in the middle Aisle of this Church. The venerable father of Cook outlived his illustrious son only a few weeks; and consequently never heard of his untimely end. He was interred at Marske, April 1st, 1779; in the 85th year of his age. His son-in-law, Mr. James Fleck, died a few years ago.* Mrs. Fleck, the Captain's sister, had three sons, all master-mariners; and four daughters: and as all the seven were married, her descendants are numerous. One only of Capt. Cook's nephews is living, viz. Captain John Fleck, of Sunderland : but three of his nieces yet survive; viz. Mrs. Grace Carter, of Redcar, Mrs. Mary Duck, of Sunderland, and Mrs. Christiana Hustler, of Deptford. As the relations of Cook were honoured for his sake, so his surviving messmates were justly regarded as deserving respect. Several young officers, trained under him, attained the rank of Captains; some became Admirals; and not a few were intrusted with important commands. Even ordinary seamen felt it to be a high distinction to have sailed with Cook; and royalty itself has deigned to honour them. In the present year, when our worthy King, William IV, who having been employed in the navahiservice himself, takes a lively interest in the welfare of seamen, paid a visit to * The author had not heard of his death when page 16th was printed. MONUMENTS TO HIS MEMORY. 457 Greenwich Hospital* on the 1st of August, in commemoration of the battle of the Nile, His Majesty, after inspecting the veterans of the Nile, drawn up on the lawn, went to the wards on the western side of the Hospital, to see three seamen, the sole survivers of Captain Cook, who were too infirm to come out.—Even the vessels which Cook commanded were deemed venerable. The Adventure, which outlived them all, was wrecked in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in 1811. When this ship, which belonged several ^ears to Mr. Brown of Hull, and afterwards to Messrs. Appleton and Trattles of y^hitbj, was repaired here in the dock of Messrs. Langborne, in 1810, fragments of her old timbers were eagerly sought after, to be kept as relics. It was proposed to erect a monument to the memory of our great navigator in Westminster Abbey ; but the design was not carried into effect. Other memorials of this kind have been provided by his friends and admirers. Sir Hugh Palliser constructed a small building on his estate in Buckinghamshire, with a pillar, on which was inscribed a fine character of Cook, " The ablest and most renowned Navigator this or any country hath produced." This character, written by the Hon. Admiral Forbes, is published along with the narrative of his last voyage, being subjoined to the Introduction by Dr. Douglas. In 1812, the inhabitants of Marton procured a marble tablet, with an appropriate inscription, to be put up in the church where Cook was baptized: but owing to some neglect, it remained cased up about twelve years, when it was at length, through the influence of Archdeacon Wrangham, fixed in its proper station. The inscrtjflfioh fe%s follows: m 1 458 LIFE OF COOK. TO THE MEMORY OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK THE CELEBRATED CIRCUMNAVIGATOR, WHO WAS BORN IN THIS PARISH, OCT. 27th, 1728, THIS TABLET WAS ERECTED BY THE PARISHIONERS OF MARTON, A.D. 1812. A monument on Rosebury Topping, a noted hill overlooking the parish of Marton, was long talked of. At last, in 1827, a handsome obelisk, 51 feet high, including a base 12 feet square, was raised to the memory of Cook, on the adjoining hill of Easby, by Robert Campion, Esq. of Whitby, and Easby* Hall; forming a conspicuous sea-mark, and bearing the following inscription :— Erected to the Memory of the celebrated Circumnavigator I JC^PTAIN JAMES COOK, F.R.S. A man in nautical knowledge, scarcely inferior to any, In zeal, prudence, and indefatigable exertions, superior to most men. Regardless of personal danger, He opened an intercourse with the Inhabitants of the Friendly Islands, And other parts of the Southern Hemisphere. He was born at Marton in this neighbourhood, 27th of Oct, 1728, And was massacred at Owhyhee, Feb. the 14th, 1779, To the inexpressible grief and disappointment of his countrymen! Wiile the Sciences in general, and Navigation in particular, Shall be cultivated among Men ; While the spirit of enterprise, commerce, and philanthropy, Shall animate the sons of Britain ; While it shall be deemed the high honour of a Christian nation, To spread the enjoyments of civilized life, And the higher blessings of the Christian Faith, Among Pagan and savage tribes ; So long will the name of Captain Cook stand enrolled Among the most celebrated and most admired of the Benefactors op the Human Race. As a token of Respect for, and Admiration of, the character aad labours of that truly great Man, who served his appren- m II 460 LIFE OF COOK. May this monument long stand, as an honour to our great navigator, a credit to his liberal admirer, and an ornament to the country ! But the happy results of Cook's voyages will form his noblest and most enduring monument* On these Dr. Douglas has enlarged, in the Introduction to his last voyage; and it will be proper, in closing his history, to glance at some of them. With the voyages of Cook, a new era commenced in the history of geography and nautical science. His success in traversing the surface of the globe, exploring unknown seas and coasts, and facilitating the progress of future navigators, was altogether unprecedented. His labours have laid open a vast field for the study of nature, and of man; where the philosopher, the politician, and the poet, may each find ample scope for his genius. And while his discoveries have led to the formation of flourishing colonies, likely to swell into a large Australian empire; they have furnished innumerable openings and facilities for commercial enterprise. At some of the new discovered groups, British consuls or residents are stationed, and an extensive trade is carried on. The character and objects of his expeditions, and the humane and benevolent manner in which he conducted them, have endeared his name, and the name of Britain, to almost all the tribes which he visited. Unlike the early discoverers, he came not to subdue by violence, but to win by kindness; his aim was to enrich, rather than impoverish; and while he made nwiy nations acquainted with British greatness, he sought to leave with them some lasting memorials of British benevolence. His unwearied exertions to stock the isles of the RESULTS OF HIS VOYAGES. 461 Pacific with useful animals and vegetables were not wholly abortive; and so well were the natives assured of his desire to serve them, that they were delighted with his visits, and begged him to repeat them. The strong attachment of the Tahitians to Capt. Cook is well known. His picture, drawn by Webber, was preserved by their King with the greatest care; and the names of succeeding navigators have been inscribed on the back of it. The first visitors after his death, thought proper to conceal the painful fact at Otaheite, forgetting that Iruth is safer than falsehood: and the mutineers who took possession of the Bounty, when they wanted a stock of cattle for Toobouai, resolving to profit by this deception, made the demand in the name of Captain Cook; a name which operated on the natives like a charm, and made them furnish, in three days, more than was required. Even in Owhyhee, the chiefs and people still venerate the name of Cook, though they no longer Worship his relics; and they deeply regret his death, as having fixed an indelible stigma on their island. " I was once," says Mr. Ellis, " in a house in Oahu, with Karaimoku, and several other chiefs, looking over the plates in the folio edition of Cook's Voyages. They, were greatly affected with the print which represented his death, and inquired if I knew the names of those who were slain on that occasion. I perceived Karaimoku more than once wipe the tears from his eyes, while conversing about the melancholy event. He said he recollected Captain Cook's visit, if not also his person, though he was at Maui at the time of his de$th. More than once, when conversing with *6B «>n the length of time the Missionaaies ihad been 462 LIFE OF COOK. in the Society Islands, they have said, \ Why did you not come here sooner ? Was it because we killed Captain Cook ?'"—The death of their King and Queen in London, was regarded by many of them as a judgment of God, inflicted on the islands for the murder of the great Captain. The noblest result of Cook's voyages remains to be noticed,—the introduction of Christianity among the tribes whom he discovered, imparting the rich* est of all blessings, and securing the increase and permanence of civilization. In 1797, the agents of the London Missionary Society were settled at Otaheite; and after fifteen years of persevering labour, and patient suffering, the efforts of the pious and devoted Missionaries, were cMwned with glorious success. Idolatry, with its bloody rites, was abolished; the infamous arreoy society was dissolved, and its abominations and infant-murders were put down; the restrictions of the taboo were removed, and females advanced to their proper station in social life; the horrors of war gave place to the sweets of peace ; and true religion, with its attendant virtues, began to prevail. The Scriptures have been translated and printed in the language of the natives, thousands of whom have been taught to read, while numbers have learned the arts and industry of Europeans. The Society Isles have shared with the Georgian, in the blessings of Christianity and civilization ; and these blessings have spread from group to group, and from island to island, till a large portion of the Polynesian tribes have been reclaimed from idolatry and wickedness. Many of the early converts have carried the gospel to distant isles, and some modern navigators have been astonished at meeting with EESULTS OF HIS VOYAGES. 463 happy spots on the bosom of the Pacific, where fcbe inhabitants had been christianized and civilized* without having seen a European.* This great moral revolution, unprecedented in the history of nations, not oplj^ jnfpught to a benighted and wretched people the hope of eternal Mfe, but has proved the means of saving them from alinost total annihilation. Owing to the causes mentioned in p. 187, especially the prevalence of infanticide, the population of Ot&heite, and other * The faithfulness and success of the Missionaries in the S. Sea Islands being now matters of history, established on the unimpeachable testimonies of British, American, and French navigators, it seems strange that •^^rt^rsons bearing the Christian name, should have the hardihood and the malice, to attempt to vilify the character, or depreciate the labours, of those self-denied men, who deserve the thanks of the whole Christian world. The gross calumnies uttered against them by Kotzebue, who, while committing the most notorious blunders himself, pretends to correct -Captain Cook, are triumphantly answered by Mr. Ellis, in his Vindication of the S. Sea Missions; where he also refutes some unjust reflecting of Capt. Beechey online females of Otaheite. One of the most unwarrantable and scandalous -attacks on the Missionaries, has been made m the " Eventful History of the Mutiny of the Bounty," where they are charged with having reduced itfig Tahitians "to a state of complete pauperism,'' converted their simplicity of character " into cunning and hypocr^^ nay, diminished the population <of the island, through the effect of "praying, psalm-singing, and dram-drinking ! J J" How the salutary exercise of prayer^tor the delightijul.d^yiifcf praising God, could reduce the population, js an enigma*^ easily solved; but the association of these with "dram-dij^J^ ing," implies one of the foulest slanders that could have been uttered. There is>fi©thing which the Missionaries have more strenuously opposed than the use of ardent spirits, which has proved one o* ^he greatest obstacles to their >sshjc«ss; and to check this baneful destroyer, they have zealously laboured to establish Temperance Societies, wherever drunkenness had prevailed. TurnbuH,'in his Voyages, has well said, "I know no sufficient punishment that the wretch would merit, who should import a cargo of spiritous liquors into the Sandwich or Society Islands; it would in every respect be tantamount to the wilful administration of an equal quantity of poison, 31 ill 464 LIFE OF COOK. isles, was rapidly decreasing. According to Turn- bull, two thirds of the infants horn in Otaheite were destroyed; and female children being most frequently the victims, the women on the island constituted only about a tenth part of the inhabitants ! But, thanks to a gracious Providgfile, the progress of this fearful havoc has been arrested*!!^ the gospel; and under its benign influence, the people are increasing in number and in happinl^5 Christianity would have advanced more speedily, had it not been retarded by the conduct of dissolute seamen, who in the isles of the Pacific, as Capt. Beechey justly observes, "do infinite mischief to the lower order of the natives, by encouraging &c.w Yet such wretches have visited the islands; and because the Missionaries have opposed their unhallowed traffic, and especially because their licentious commerce with females has been checked through the influence of the gospel on the natives, they have advanced the basest charges against those worthy men,—charges, which the enemies of religion at home have been eager to spread. That the Missionaries have pauperized the natives, is one of those vile slanders: the gospel has made them rich and happy, industrious and cheerful. That their character has been changed, is indeed true; but it is a change, not from simplicity to cunning; but from vice to virtue, from treachery to fidelity, from cruelty to kindness, from all that is vile, to all that is amiable. This writer derides the Missionaries, for their laudable attempts to introduce British laws, and the forms of the British constitution; and charges them with selfishness, in keeping the cattle chiefly under their own care; a measure which Cook, had he been alive, would have warmly recommended, to ensure the preservation and increase of the breed. That the Missionaries engross the trade of Otaheite to themselves, is another scandalous falsehood: they are pursuing far nobler objects. This author's remarks on religion are strangely inconsistent. He reproaches the Missionaries as illiterate and unqualified, yet extols the labours of John Adams; he praises the Bible, yet laments the evangelization of Otaheite, and ridicules the idea of seeking *' food for the soul!" In other respects, his work is highly interesting, although not remarkable for correctness : he confounds the tupapow with the morai. RESULTS OF HIS VOYAGES. 465 them in intemperance, debauchery, idleness, and all kinds of vice; nearly sufficient of themselves to counteract all the labours of the Missionaries in the ijilfusion of morality and religion." Yet, notwithstanding these and other obstacles, the triumphs of Christianity are spreading widely among these now happy isles; and the most delightful pictures of the glorious change produced by the gospel, may be seen in Ellis's Polynesian Researches, Tyerman and Bennet's Journal, and other authentic records. When Christianity was sent to the Georgian and Society Islands, attempts were made to introduce it also at the Marquesas and the Friendly Aisles: these attempts proved abortive, and three Missionaries were murdered at Tongataboo, during the civil wars occasioned by the Feenous. But, of late years, the gospel has been successfully planted in the Friendly Isles, by the Wesley an Missionaries, who have promising stations at Tongataboo, the Hapaee Isles, and the Vavaoo group; and are extending their labours to the Feejees. The mission to the Marquesas has been renewed by the London Society, with pleasing prospects of success ; while the Samoas, or Navigators Isles, and part of the Feejees, are also brought within the sphere of their operations. The introduction of Christianity into New Zealand, has already been noticed (pp. 68, 72, 73) : the success of the Church and Wesleyan Missionaries there, encourages the hope, that it will soon cease to be a land of cannibals and savages. The Sandwich Islands, presenting another interesting field of philanthropic labour, have been occupied with great effect by the American Missionaries, since 1820. It is remarkable, that in Ill 466 LIFE OF COOK. the: year before, on the accession of Rihoriho, idolatry was utterly abolished; so that, on their arrival, the people were ready to receive them with open arms. The circumstances attending this singular event, are detailed by their fellow-labourer, Mr. EUis, in his Tour through Hawaii. The powerful and intelligent Tamehameha had unintentionally prepared his subjects for this change, by adopting European arts and improvements, through the advice and assistance of two respectable British seamen, accidentally,left here in 1790, Mr. John Young and Mr. Isaac Davis, on whom he conifer red estates, with the rank of chiefs. Mr. Young promoted the introduction of Christianity, and was alive in 1827, at the visit of Captain Beechey. Learning, religion, and civilization, have progressed more rapidly here, than at any other group. Many thousands have learned to read and write; and multitudes have become genuine Christians. At all the principal Missionary stations in the Pacific, schools are established, as well as public worship; and the printing-press is employed in aid of the pulpit. Thus the light of divine truth is diffused, conveying life, and peace, said joy, to the nations.—Contemplating such blessed results* along with the extension of 'Science and of commerce, we may boldly say, that the Voyages of our great navigator are connected with the best interests of the human race. In fiitere ages, the natives of these distant isles will revere the memory of that enterprising hero, who first made them known to the Christian world. THE END. fYhithif; Printed by Home and Richardson* SVSBS«]BSIB3B]BSd Mr James Adamst Mr J. Addison, Scarbro' Professor L. Agassiz, M.D. &c, Neufchdtel Mr Ains worth, Scarbw, 2 cop. Mr John Alexander Mr Thomas Anderson Mr John Anderson Mr Joseph Anderson Mr John Anderson, jun. Rev. James Andrew Mr James Appleby Miss Atkinson, Sneaton Mr E. Atkinson, Stockton Mr J. Barclay, Surgeon, Edinburgh Mrs P. Barker Joseph Barker, Esq. Robert Baxter, Esq., Doncaster Richard Bayley, Esq., Castle Dyke J. Benson, Esq., Aislaby William Benson, Esq. Henry Belcher, Esq. Charles Belcher, Esq. Rev. J. Blackbtid|>.3p.3iv Mtercliffe cumDalvall 32 Rev. William Blackburn William Blagden, Esq., Attercliffe J. Blanchard, Esq., York Mr William Bolton Wm. Bottomley, Esq., Scarbro', 1. p. Robert B reckon, Esq. Rev. J. Brewster, M.A., Egglescliffe Richard Brewster, Esq. Lieut.G.S. Brittain,R.N. Mr W. Brittain, Aislaby T. Brown, Esq., M.D., F.R.S.E., &c, Lanfine House, 2 cop., 1. p. G. F. Brown, Esq., Scarbro* Mr John Brown, Grocer J. Buchannan, Esq., 1. p. Mr Gideon Buck Rev.Professor Auckland, D.D.,F.R.S.,&c, &c, Oxford Mr Stephenson Bulmer Sir John Byerley, Knt., &c, 6 cop., 3 1. p. Wm. Campbell, Esq., M.D. i IS 468 SUBSCRIBERS. Robert Campion, Esq. John Campion, Esq. William Campion, Esq. Rt. Hon. Earl of Carlisle Mr W. Cavallier, 2 cop. Sir G. Cayley,Bart.,2c. E.S. Cayley,Esq.,M.P., 2 cop. A. Chapman, Esq., M.P., 2 cop. Mr Geo. Chapman Harrison Chilton, Esq. Thomas Clark, Esq. Mr Michael Clark, 1. p. Capt. Geo. Clark, Sund. Mr M. R. Clarkson J. C. Coates, Esq. Mr T. B. Cockayne, Sheffield Mr H. Cockayne, ditto Mr William Collier Mr William Cooper Mr William Corbishley Mr Cowle Mr J. R. Cowling Mr Cracknell, Scarbro* Mr Richard Craven Mr George Croft, jun. Geo. Cumberland, Esq., Bristol Mr John Dale J. Dale, Esq., N. Shields Mr John Davison Richard Dickson, Esq., Stockton Mr Joseph Doughty Rev. Fras. Drake, D.D., Langton Rev. J. Dufton, M.A., Rillington Mr Alexander Easton, Surgeon, Scarbro Rev. B. Evans, Scarbro* Rev. James Everett, Neiocastle Rev. Thomas Ewbank, Stockton Lieut. G. Fabian, R.N. Rev. H. Farish, M.A., St. Mary's, Sheffield Charles F. Favell, Esq., M.D., Sheffield Msrs. Finlay & Charlton Books., Newcastle, 2 c. Mr James Finlay, ditto Right Hon. Earl Fitz- william, 6 cop. Mr Thomas Fletcher Miss Forth ' John Frankland, Esq. 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Mr George Impey Rev. A. Jack, A.M., and Friends, JV. Shields, 12 cop. Rev. James Jackson, Greenhammerton Ward Jackson, Esq., Stockton Mr Marmaduke James Mr T. Jennett, Stockton Mr Robert Johnson Sir J. V. B. Johnstone, Bart.,M.P.,2cop.l.p. Thos. Jones, Esq., R.N. MrW. Jones, London, l.p. Capt. William Jones Commander Kains, R.N. Mr John Kerr, Lyth Rev. G. B. Kidd, Scarbro' Miss Kneeshaw Robt. Knox, Esq., M.D., F.R.S. Edin. Nathl. Langborne, Esq. Mr John Lawson, jun. Rev. S. Leigh, Crosshills, 3 cop., 1. p. Mr E.J. Liddle, Surgeon, Staiths 470 SUBSCRIBERS. Mr J. Linton, East Rota Rev. Wm. Long, Lyth Vicarage J. G. Loy, Esq., M.D. Mr J. Lumley, Kirkby Moor side, 3 cop. Mr J. Lumsden, Hull Mr George jbynass Mr Henry Mackay Geo. Meriy weather, Esq. M.D., 1. p. CapV^homas Mills John Milner, Esq., Atter- cliffe Miss Fanriy Marwood RcU Moorsom, Esq., 1. p. Admiral Sir Robt. Moorsom, K.C.B., 3 c, 1. p. Rev.Rt.Morehead,D.D. F.R.S.E., Easington Rt. Hon. Viscount Morpeth, M^P., 2 cop. 1. p. Mr Wm. Mountain, jun. Newcastle Rev. James Muir, Sunderland Rt. Hon. Earl of Mulgrave, 2 cop., 1. p. Peter Murray, Esq.,M.D. Scarbro' Mr James Mutter Miss Ann Nelson Rt. Hon. Viscount Nor- manhy, 1. p. Miss Itfoble Mr G. Ouston, Sund. l.p. Mr George Par^ ^ Rev. W. Parker, Leybourn Thomas Parkin, Esq. George Peirson,xJBsq. Miss Pennyman, 2 c. 1. p. George Peters, Esq. Mr Francis, Pickemell Rev. F. S.Pope Capt. R. J. Potter Miss Pressick Joshua Priestman, Esq., Thornton Mr I. Priestman, Norton Edward Pullan, Esq., Skinningrave Hall, 1. p. Leonard Raisbeck, Esq., Stockton Rt. Hon. Lord Ravens- worth, 1. p. Fletcher Raincock, Esq., Liverpool, 2 cop. Jos. Read, Esq., Winco- bank Hall j^l^Si/Rhodes & Rutherford, Hull, 2 c, 1. p. Chr. Richardson, Esq. Thos. Richardson, Esq. Mrs Jolp^J^chardson Mr William Richardson, Richmond, 1. p. Wm. Richmond, Esq., , Tynemouih, 1. p. Mr J. Rickinson, 2 cop* Richard Ripley, Esq. SUBSCRIBERS. 471 John Ripley, Esq. Joseph Robertson, Esty., i Overd&le, I. p. John Robinson, Esq., Surgeon Ifis's Roby, S'teHnion Robert Rodgers, Esq., Osgathorpe House Sir J. Ross, K.C.B., R.N. Mr J. Rowntree, Scdrtro' Captain Rutherford, London Jos. Sanders, Esq;, 1. p. Andrew Sanders, Esq., Stockton, 1. p. Charles Saunders, Esq., Sneaton Castle, 1. p. John Sanderson, Esq., Dalvall Hall Scarborough Mechanics' Institute Rev. W. Scoresby, B.A., F.R.S., &c, Exeter Mr Hugh Scott Mr Peter Scott, Sneaton Capt. Thomas Seaton Messrs. Sharp and Co., Books., S. Shields, 2 c. Mr W. Sedman, Leeds Mr Martin Simpson, Wakefield, 2 cop. George Skipsey, Esq., Stockton Mr Gideon Smales Mrs Smalpage, 2 cop. !Rev,W.H.Smith,M.A., Hinderwell John Smith, Esq., Lyth Hall Mr D. Smith, Montrose Henry Sorby, Esq., Woodburn House A. Stephenson, Esq. Mr Thomas Stewart Rev. Wm. Stobbs, and Friends, Stromness, 6 c. Mr John Stratford Mr George Summerson Rev.^Th. Sutton, M.A., Vicar of Sheffield Mr John Taylor Mr William Taylor Mr S. W. Theakston, Books., Scarbro', 2 c. 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Miss Yeoman, Angel Inn Mr Thomas Yeoman His Grace the Archbp. of York, 1. p. Mr Joseph Yorke Rev. J. Young, A.M. and Friends, London, 20 c. If 1. m\ Works by the same Author. A Geological Survey of the Yorkshire Coast, with numerous Engravings. In one Vol. Quarto. Second Edition. Price £2 2s. A History of Whitby, and the Vicinity, to the distance of 25 Miles. Two Vols 8vo. Price £1 Is. u Mr. Young has taken much laudable pains to produce a well digested History of a Town of no small consequence; and has furnished a brief sketch of an extensive range of country, in what might with much propriety be called the Terra incognita of Yorkshire." Gent. Mag. May, 1818. "The entire work forms a learned and comprehensive accouut of the district, to the topography of which it is consecrated ; and it will be considered as a welcome addition to those libraries which are intended to include the voluminous set of our county-histories. So much Saxon learning, indeed, so judicious a criticism of monuments, so compressed a collection of materials, and so complete an inclusion of every expedient topic, are seldom to be found in the local chroniclers." " We have only to wish, that volumes so remarkably well executed may speedily attain a second edition, and be reprinted in a more magnificent form, to which honour they are well entitled." Monthly Review, Oct. 1819. Lectures on the Book of Jonah, designed chiefly for the use of Seamen. Second Edition. In one Vol. small 8vo. Price 2s. 6d. ft$* A few copies of the First Edition, in one Vol. 8vo. Price 5s, may also be had. " We consider these Lectures as a valuable accession to the Seaman's Library. They are plain, serious, and thoroughly evangelical.—We cordially recommend this volume to the patronage of the Christian public, and hope that the speedy sale of this edition, will induce the author to publish it in a WORKS BY THE SAME AUTHOR. form, and at a price, which may enable benevolent individuals to give it away in quantities, to those whose spiritual interests it is so well calculated to promote." Notice of the 1st Edition j Christian Repository, Nov. >1819. " The sentiments are truly evangelical, the reftectioay! are serious and appropriate, the practical tendency of the Lectures is throughout very apparent, and—we readily give the present work the benefit of our cordial recommendation/' Eclectic Review, Dec. 1819. See also the Evangelical Magazine, September, 1819. Evangelical Principles of Religion Vindicated, and the Inconsistency and Dangerous Tendency of the Unitarian scheme exposed ; in a series of Letters. In one Vol. 8vo. Price 5s. " We confess with thankfulness our obligations to Mr. Young, for bis timely efforts in one quarter of the field of contest; and it affords us sincere pleasure to report his success, and to commend his Vindication to every honest and candid Uquirer/' Eclectic Review, Feb. 1813. gj It is not one of those perishable, controversial tracts, Which naturally die with the occasion, but may, at all times, be useful to the sincere christian, both for his private edification and comfort, and for enabling him to give to every man a reason of the hope that is in him." Edinburgh Christian Instructor, April, 1813. See also Critical Rev. July, and Evangelical Mag. Oct. 18J& A Picture of Whitby and its Environs, with many Embellishments. In one Vol. small 8vo. Price 5s. #5* A Second Edition of this work, containing much original matter, with several additional ISflfcfeellishments, is in course of preparation.
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Original Format: University of British Columbia. Library. Rare Books and Special Collections. FC3821.249 .Y68 1836
The life and voyages of Captain James Cook, drawn up from his journals, and other authentic documents ; and comprising much original information : illustrated with several engravings
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