CONTENTdm
British Columbia Historical Books Collection
Edwards, James, 1756-1816
Gillet, Thomas
Alexander, William
Sykes, John, 1770 or 1771-1858
Heddington, Thomas, 1775 or 1776-1860
Mudge, Zachary, 1770-1852
Humphrys, Henry, -1799
Gooch, William, 1770 or 1771-1792
Landseer, John, 1769-1852
Heath, James, 1757-1834
Pouncy, Benjamin Thomas, -1799
Fittler, James, 1758-1835
Neele, Samuel John, 1758-1824
Great Britain. Colonial Office. Library
Vancouver, George, 1757-1798
Vancouver, John, -1828?
Stockdale, John, 1749?-1814
“Vancouver arrived at Nootka in 1792 to receive the territory seized by Spain, in accordance with the Nootka Sound Convention. He charted the northwest coast from San Francisco to Cook's Inlet and circumnavigated Vancouver Island, r.ef. T.P.L. In the Editor's advertisement, vol.I, p[xxi-xxxii] John Vancouver outlines the state of the text on the death of his brother George, and his own editorial contribution to the finished work ; A voyage . . . [2d. ed.] A new edition with corrections, illustrated with nineteen views and charts, in six volumes. London, Printed for John Stockdale, 1801. ; A re-issue of the first edition, revised by John Vancouver, with many corrections in spelling, etc. As the original plates had been stolen, the illustrations were re-engraved.”-- Strathern, G. M., & Edwards, M. H. (1970). Navigations, traffiques & discoveries, 1774-1848: A guide to publications relating to the area now British Columbia. Victoria, BC: University of Victoria, p. 308. A new edition, with corrections, illustrated with nineteen views and charts. In six volumes. Vol.VI. ; London : Printed for John Stockdale, Piccadilly. 1801.—Title page
412 pages : illustrations (folded) ; 22 cm
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VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN, ROUND THE WORLD; In which the Coaft of North-weft America has been carefully examined and accurately furveyed. UNDERTAKEN BY HIS MAJESTY'S COMMAND, Principally with a View to afcertain the exiftence of any Navigable Communication between the North Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans % AND performed in the tears 1790, 1791, 1792, 1793, 1794 and 1795, IN THE DISCOVERY SLOOP OF WAR, AND ARMED TENDER CHATHAM, under the command of CAPTAIN GEORGE VANCOUVER. Dedicated, by Permijfton, to HIS MAJESTY, A NEW EDITION, WITH CORRECTIONS, ILLUSTRATED WITH NINETEEN VIEWS AND CHARTS. IN SIX VOLUMES, VOL. VI. SLonDon: .PRINTED FOR JOHN STOCKDALE, PICCADILLY. 1801. VOYAGE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN, ROUND THE WORLD. CHAPTER X. Proceed to the Southward along the exterior Coajl of King George the Thirds Archipelago—Arrive In Port Conclufion—Tran/acJions there—Two Boat Excursions—Complete the Survey of the Continental Shores of North-Weft America— Agronomical and nautical Obfervations* klTR attention being now directed to the furvey of the exterior coaft of George the Third's archipelago, at the dawn of day, on Tuefday the 2Qth of July, with a frefh wefter- ly breeze, we made fail along the fhore, to the fouthward; cape Crofs bearing by com- pafs N. 68 E. diftant four or five miles. From this cape the coaft takes a direction S. 31 E. about {even leagues to another promontory, that obtained the name of Cape Edward; Vox. VI. B off 27ifi< AGE OF DISCOVERY [jULY, off which lies a clufter of fmall iflets and rocks. The coaft between thefe capes is much broken, and has feveral openings in it that appeared likely to afford Shelter; but the vaft number of rocks and fmall iilets, fome producing trees, and others intirely barren, that extend to the diftance of three or four miles from the fhore, will render the entering of fuch harbours unpleafant and dangerous, until a more competent knowledge of their feveral fit u at ions may hereafter be acquired : that which appeared to be the eafieft of accefs, lies about two leagues to the northward of cape Edward, and as it is hi latitude 57° 44\ I was led to confider this opening as Portlock's harbour. We did not reach cape Edward until the afternoon, as the wefterly breeze was foon fucceeded by faint variable airs, that blew directly towards the fhore, which was vifible only at intervals, owing to the thick foggy and rainy weather, and which rendered the view we had obtained of this part of the coaft, by no means fatisfactory; During the night the wind fettled in the weftern quarter, notwithstanding which, by its blowing gently, our diftance from the more was increafed to about three leagues, and at day-light the next morning, (Wednefday 3o) cape Edward bore by compafs N. 27 W. diftant twelve miles;, from whence the coaft bends more to the eaftward, and takes a direction about Sv 30 Ev mm 17Q4. ROUND THE WOULD. 3 S. 30 E. to a very confpicuous opening, which I fuppofed to be that reprefented in fome late publications,.as feparatihg the land on which mount Edgcumbe is fituated from the adjacent fhores, and named the Bay of Ifiands by Captain Cook, who imagined at the time he pafled it, that fuch a feparation did exifh We were oppofite to this bay about eight in the morning, but the intermediate fpace between the bay of Ifiands and cape Edward was palled in very thick foggy weather; this difadvantage, in addition to the diftance we had been from the land, may fub- ject the delineation of that fhore to fome error. Near the land forming the fouthern fide of the bay of Ifiands are feveral fmall ifiets, and from the fouth point of the bay, which I called PoitfT? Amelia, the coaft extends S. 5 E. fixteen miles, to cape Edgcumbe, having nearly in the middle of that fpace an opening, with two fmall ifiets lying before it, and prefenting an appearance of a good harbour, which I called Port Mary ; the other parts of the coaft that were palled at the diftance of about a league, are indented with fmall open bays. As the day advanced a brifk gale from the N. W. attended us, with fair and pleafant weather, which enabled us to afcertain the fhip's fituation. At noon the latitude w^as found to be The moil nor- B 2 thern 57° 4i7, longitude 224° 1Q'. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JULY, thern part of the coaft at this time in fight bore by compafs N. N. W. port Mary N. 22 E. eight miles diftant; and cape Edgcumbe S. 80 E, four or five miles diftant. This cape, by the fame obfervations was found to be in latitude* 5 7° 2', longitude 224° 25¥, which is one mile to the fouth and eighteen miles and an half to the eaftward of its fituation, as ftated by Captain Cook. We had now alio a very good view of mount Edgcumbe, and notwithftanding that it muft be confidered as high land, yet it was in- tirely free from fnow, and feemed to us but an inconfiderable hill, when compared with the mountains we had generally feen, extending along the fhores of this continent. Cape Edgcumbe forms the north-weft point of a fpacious opening, that branches into feveral arms, and is called by Mr. Dixon Norfolk Sound; its oppofite or fouth- eaft point, which I have diftinguifhed by the name of Point Wodehouse, lies from the cape S. 50 E. at the diftance of feventeen miles. One of the northern branches of the found, by its communication with the bay of Ifiands makes, it feems, the intermediate part of the fea-coaft an ifland. On the northern fide of the found, two leagues within cape Edgcumbe, are, what appeared to us, two ifiands, and N. N. W. from point Wodehoufe, lies an extenfive group of ifiets and rocks that extend three or four miles from I79L ROUND THE WOULD. 5 from the fhore, which, from that poinl|: with little variation, takes a cou'rfe S. 30 E. This part of the coaft is much broken into fmall openings, with ifiets and detached rocks lying off it; We had advanced about fixteen miles only from point Wodehoufe at eight in the essd&ing, after which, the night was palled in ufing our endea- vwrs to retain our ftation near this part of the coaft; butffosefound ourfclves on Thurfday morn- inz the 3 l$iiisrach furtfterffrom the land than^^i hadex^sdted;i\^iiad>iIiowefet,a favorable breez^P fpm the weftwatnd, wifh which we flood towards -the"fhore, lp|iB the weather becoming thick* and foggy, we were under the neceflity to haul' ojSnthe coaft untifei^ in the forenoon, when the land being agaidi vifible, about four mfl'€fe#$$ao us, weirefumed our ex&afotei^,1 paffing fome fmall openings, with federal Mfets and detached rocks lying near to them ; but ofw&h we were precluded any diftkffict view by the hazinefs of the weather. This difadvantage had attended us almoft generally fince oar departure from Crofs found, and although I have reafon to believe that we had nearly afcertained the general line of the coaft, yet it is poftible that there may be openings or harbours that we were unable to notice, as circumftances would not admit of our devot- B 3 ine Q A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST, ing fufEcient time to a more minute examination. .By noon we had palled the fouth extremity of this archipelago, which was now found to ftretch a few miles further fouth than Mr.Whid- bey had eftimated ; our obfervations placed it in latitude-50°-1:0', ldnkitude 325*37}'. It con- ftifKtes a very remarkable promontory, that ter- rrft&ates in a high bluff rocky cliff, with a round, high rocky iflet lying clofe to it, and by its fhores on its eaftern fide taking a fharp northerly direction, it becomes a very narrow point of land, which having been feen by Certain Colnett in his mercantile expedition to this coaft, was by him named Cape Ommaney, and the opening between it and cape Decifion, Chriftian Sound. Our conjectures of foon finding a port in this neighbourhood, did not long remain unconfigured, for after advancing feven or eight miles from cape Ommaney, we difcovered on the eaftern fhore of the archipelago an opening that took a fouth-weft direction; and as it appeared likely to anfwer all our purp5fes we worked into it, with a frefli breeze directly againft us until feven in the evening; when we anchored off a cove about half a league within the entrance of the harbour. On Friday morning the ift of Auguft the veflels were moored head and ftern in this cove, there not being fufEcient room for them 1794-] ROUND THE WORLD. f them to fwing ; and whilft thofe on board were fo employed, accompanied by Mr. Whidbey and Mr. Johnftone, (who were each to undertake a diftinct expedition, and by which means we entertained the hope of being enabled to connect the furveys of the prefent, with thofe of the two preceding feafbns^ I rowed to the entrance of the port, in order to be better able to arrange the mode of conducting that ferviee ; this appeared to be no difficult talk, as there were two gjrven points before us, and both were nearly in ^ibwr. The one .was cape Decifion, where our examination of the-continentaiifaore had finifhed the farmer feafon, and the other was p6io& Gardner, from whence Mr. W hidbey had returned on his laft eeicaitffioa from Crofs found. Mr. WHliidbey was direS|ed to recommence his sefearcfaes from- that point, wiiilft Mr. Johnftone proceeded to cape Decifion, there to begin his examination alofig the eaftern ffyoie of the found northward* until the two parties fhould meet, or be otherways informed by notes which each party was to leave in confpicuous places for the government of the other, defcribing the extent of their refpective furveys. The fpace now to be explored occupied about a degree of latitude, and although I hoped that o 7 or the examination of it with tolerable weather, would not employ the boats more than a week; B 4 yet A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY LAUGUST vet in order that it fhould not be left unaccom- j plifhed for want of provifions, each of the parties was provided for a fortnight. The Difco- very's yawl and large cutter was to proceed wiijr Mr. Whidbey and Mr. Swaine ; and the Chatham's cutter, and the Difcovery's fmall cutter, with Mr. Johnftone and Mr. Barrie; with this arrangement both parties departed early in the morning of Saturday the 2d, in the profecution of their refpective purfuits. The ftation we had taken, though fufEcientry commodious for our purpofe, was extremely folitary ; there were no inhabitants on the adjacent fliores, nor was there the fmalleft appearance of any part of our neighbourhood being a place of their refort, fo that our time was not liJfely to be very intereftingly employed, or our attention diverted from fuch neceffary concerns as the ordinary fervices of the veffels now required. Thefe confifted principally in repairing our iaifo and rigging in the beft manner we were able. This had now become a bufinefs of conftant employment. Some of the carpenters were caulking, others cutting fuch fpars and timbers for plank us were wanted ; and the brewers on fhore were making fpruce beer, which with a little famphire, and fome halibut, caught with our hooks near the entrance of the harbour, were the only refrefhments the place afforded. The. 2 7Q4.] ROUND THE WORLD. Q The five following days we had light variable winds, attended by much rain; but the weather being more pleafant on Friday the 8th, I was employed in making a furvey of the harbour. Its fouthern point of entrance is fituated N. 15 £. about two leagues from cape Ommaney, its oppofite point lying N. 7 V/. two miles diftant. The depth of water in mid-channel between thefe points is 75 fathoms, but decreafes to 8 or 10 clofe to the fhores, without rocks or fands, excepting: near the points, which are fufEciently evident to be avoided. South fouth-weft, about half a mile from the north point of entrance, is a moft excellent and fnug bafon about a third of a mile wide, and half a mile long ; but its entrance is by a very narrow channel half a mile in length, in a direction S. /0 W., with fome ifiets and rocks lying off its fouth point; thefe are fteep nearly clofe to them, as are the fhores on both fides, which vary from a fixth to a twelfth of a mile afunder, with a clear navigable paffage from eight to twelve fathoms deep in the middle, and five fathoms on the fides. The foundings are . tolerably regular in the bafon, from 30 in the middle, to 10 fathoms clofe to the fhores. Immediately within its north point is a fine fandy beach, and an excellent run of water, rs is the cafe al'fo at its head, with a third fandy beach juft within its fouth point of entrance. I 10 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST,, In the vicinity of thefe beaches, efpecially the firft and third, is a fmall extent of low land ; but the other parts of the fhores are compofed of fteep rugged cliffs on all fides, furrounded by a thick foreft of pine trees, which grew with more vigour than in the other parts of the harbour. From its entrance to the head, it extends about a league in a direction S. 33 W., free from any interruption, although it is inconvenient from its great depth of water. Near the fouthern fide of entrance lies a fmall iflet and fome rocks, but thefe are entirely out of the way of its navigation. '" The foundings cannot be confidered as very regular, yet the bottom in general is good ; in fome places it is ftony, in others find and mud ; but in the cove where the veffels were at anchor the bottom is rocky. The head of this cove approaches within the fourth of a mile of the head of another cove, whofe entrance on the outfide is about two miles to the fouth of the fouth point of this harbour. In the entrance of that cove the depth is feven fathoms, weeds were feen growing acrofs it, and to the north of it is a final! iflet with fome rocks. The fur- rounding fhores are generally fteep and rocky, and were covered with wood nearly to the water's edge, but on the fides of the adjacent hills were fome fpots clear of trees, and chiefly occupied by a damp moift moorifli foil, in which were 1794-] ROUND THE WORLD. 11 were feveral pools of water. The furface produced fome berry bufhes, but the fruit at this feafon of the year was not ripe. This little information I procured from fome of our gentlemen, who had made fome excurfions about the neighbourhood. In the above cove on the weft- fide were found a few deferted Indian habitations, which were the only ones that had been met with. Our not having been vifited here by any of the natives, was rather a mortifying cir- cumftance, as they generally occafioned us fome entertainment, and frequently added fome variety to fuch refrefhments, as by our own efforts we were enabled to procure. From Saturday the Qth to Wednefday the 13th, the weather had been moftly boifterous, unfettled, and rainy ; this kind of weather fince our arrival had prevented our making any lunar obfervations, but had afforded me fufEcient opportunities for afcertaining very fatisfactorily the rates of the chronometers, by fuch means as were in my power on board, not having erected the obfervatory on fhore ; for as a convenient filiation could not be found near the fhip, and as I was in hopes we fhould not long be detained at this ftation, I was not particularly anxious to land the inftrumerits ; and under the circum- ftances of the weather, I had not much to regret that they had remained unremoved. Other ].3 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST, Other objects began to claim our ferious attention. The plan that I had adopted for drawing our laborious examination of this coaft to a conclufion, by the furveys on which the boats wTere now employed, I had fully expected would have been accompliihed in a week or ten days at the furtheft, but the whole time for which they had been provided was now expired, and Friday the 15th arrived without bringing any relief to our very anxious concern for their welfare. This unpleafant ftate of fufpence continually brought to our recollection the various untoward accidents to which our expeditions in fuch fmall open boats had been liable; and when we adverted to the very treacherous behaviour of the Indians experienced by Mr. Whid- bey in his late excurfion from Crofs found, and the fimilar difpofition that had been fhewn to us the preceding feafon by thofe people who inhabit the countries not far diftant to the fbuth-eaft- ward, our minds were filled with apprehenfion, and every hour increafed our folicitude for the return of our abfent friends. The fervice that each party had to perform, called them, if not into the immediate neighbourhood of thefe unfriendly people, at leaft into the vicinity of the places to which they frequently refort; and as they are by nature of a cunning, defigning, and avaricious difpofition, they were much to be feared 179-*-] ROUND THE WORLD. 13 feared ; for although they could not be con- fidered as a courageous tribe, yet the very unwarrantable and impolitic conduct of the feveral traders on this coaft, in fupplying them fo amply with fire-arms and ammunition, and in teaching them the ufe of thofe deftructive weapons, has not only given the natives a degree of confidence that renders them bold and importunate, but the dread which they before entertained of mufketry is greatly leflened by their becoming fo familiar to them ; and they are now fo well furnifhed, as to confider themfelves when in their large canoes nearly on an equality with us, and of courfe are daily becoming formidable, efpecially to the parties in our fmall boats. Thefe dif- treffing confiderations, in addition to the protracted abfence of our friends, gave us but too much reafon to be apprehenfive, that we had at length hazarded our little boats, with the fmall. force they were able to take for their defence, once too often. Whilft we endured this irkfome anxiety, it is a tribute that is juftly due to the meritorious exertions of thofe under my command, that I fbould again acknowledge the great confolation I derived on all painful occafions like this, by having the moft implicit confidence in the difcretion and abilities of my officers, and the exertions and ready obedience of mv people. Thefe happy reflections left 14 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST, left me no grounds for entertaining the molt diftant idea that any precaution would be Wanting1 to guard againft, or effort unexerted to avert, fo tar as human prudence could dictate, the threatening dangers to which I was confcious they muft neceflarily be expofed. In the hourly hope that thefe confoling reflections would once more be proved to have been well founded, by the fafe return of the boats, I directed that every thing fhould be got in readi- nefs to proceed with all difpatch in fuch direction as circumftances might require ; for which pur- pofe the veflfels were moved to the oppofite fide of the harbour, as being a more convenient fitua- tion for our immediate departure. Here we remained in the molt uncomfortable ftate of fuf- penfe that can be imagined until Tuefday the lgth; when, in the midft of a deluge of rain, with the wind blowing very ftrong from the S. E. we had the kidifcribable fatisfaction of feeing the four boats enter the harbour together from the northward. The parties foon reached the veffels, all well, and communicated the glad tidings of their having effectually performed the fervice, and attained the object that had been expected from this expedition. The accomplifliment of an undertaking, the laborious nature of which will, probably, from the perufal of the foregoing fheets, be more eafily conceived 179^-] ROUND THE WORLD. 15 conceived than explained: a fervice that had demanded our conftant and unwearied attention, and had required our utmoft abilities and exertions to bring thus to a conclufion, could not, after the indefatigable labours of the three preceding years, fail of exciting in the bofoms of our little community, fenfations of a nature fo pleafing and fa- tisfactory, that few are likely to experience in the fame degree, who were not participators in its execution; and to the imagination of thofe alone, muft I refer the happinefs we experienced on this interefting event. In order that the valuable crews of both veflels, on whom great hardfhips and manual labour had fallen, and who had uniformly encountered their difficulties with unremitting exertion, cheerful- nefs and obedience, might celebrate the day, that had thus terminated their labours in thefe regions; they were ferved with fuch an additional allowance of grog as was fully fufficient to anfwer every purpofe of feftivity on the occafion. This fbon prompted a defire for mutual congratulations between the two veflels, expreffed by three exulting cheers from each; and it may be eafily conceived that a greater degree of heart-felt fa- tisfadlion was fcarcely ever more reciprocally experienced, or more cordially exchanged. We had now no reafon for remaining in this port, which, in confequence o( this vifit, obtained lS A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST^ tained the name of Port Conclusion, excepting that which a continuation of the inclement. •weather produced, which detained us until the evening of Friday the 22d. But before I proceed to the recital of fubfequent occurrences, it is ne- ceflary that I fliould advert to the manner in which the late furvey in the boats had been executed. Agreeably to the directions Mr. Whidbey had received, he proceeded to the ftation where his former refearches had ended ; here he arrived about noon on the 3d, after palling clofe along the weftern fnore of the ftrait, until he was op- pofite to the branch leading to the eaftward. In his vv-ay he pafled feveral openings on the weftern fhore, fome of which he had reafon to fup- pofe communicated with the ocean in a wefterly direction, and. others feemed to afford tolerably well fheltered anchorage. The weather at this time was fo thick and rainy, that the party had but a very imperfect view of the inlet before them. Thev, however, continued along its larboard fhore, in a direction N. 05 E. for about fix miles and an half, paffing feveral fmall rocky bays, and at this inlet arrived at a high fteep bluff rocky point, named by me Point Nepean, fituated in latitude 5 7° lo', longitude 226° 6' ; off which lies a ledge of rocks about half a mile, and from this point the coaft takes a more north erly 179^.] ROUND THE WORLD. IJ therly direction; but the weather became fo thick that the party was obliged to ftop about two miles beyond it, where the operation of the fame caufe detained them until eight o'clock the next morning; when, with very hazy unpleafant weather, they refumed their inquiries, and pafTed between a coaft much indented with fmall bays, and vaft numbers of fmall ifiets and rocks, both above and beneath the furface of the water. The weather cleared up towards noon, and enabled Mr. Whidbey to obferve the latitude to be 57° 18', on a fmall iflet, clofe to a point named by me Point Pybus, lying from point Nepean N. 38 E. ten miles and an half diftant. From . fchii ftation a tolerably diftinct vitfw was obtained of the inlet, in which the party had advanced thus far nearly in the dark. It was now feen to be a fpacious arm of the fea, con/taining, in moft directions, many ifiands, ifiets, and rocks; the country on the left hand fide, being that fhore the party had coafted, excepting about point Nepean, feemed in general to be but moderately elevated, and although it is compofed of a rocky fubftance, produced a very fine foreft, chiefly of pine timbers; but the oppofite fide of the inlet was too far off for us to notice any thing refpect- ing it. From this ftation the party procee#fc£ ftili along a very rocky fhore, about fix miles further, in a direction N. 41 E, to a point called Vol.. VI. C by I 19 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST? by me Point Gam bier, which forms the fouth point of a branch leading to the north weft ward : its oppofite point of entrance, named by me Point Hugh, lying from it N. 29 E. at the diftance of five miles. Beyond this, another ex-. tenfive branch appeared to ft retch to the northward, but the former being the object of their firft inquiry, they proceeded along its weftern, fhore; this is low, and in many places is terminated by fandy beaches. On one of thefe, about ten miles from point Gambier, they refted for the night, which was very ftormy from the fouth- ward, with continual rain, and dark gloomy weather ; this lafted until ten in the forenoon of the 5th, when the wind moderating, and the weather permitting them to fee fome little diftance before them,, they proceeded, with a favorable breeze, up this branch of the ocean, called by me Seymour's Channel, which, at this place, is from two to three miles wide, and which kept gradually increafing to its head, where in a direction of N. E. and S. W* it is nearly two. leagues acrofs: on the weftern fide are many fmall bays, and it terminates, at its north-welt extremity, in a fmall brook of frefh water, in latitude 57° 51', longitude 220°, lying from point Hugh N. 33 W. diftant twenty-nine miles. One mile from the fouth point of the brook is an iiland, about three miles and an half lorn*, and half 17C4.] ROUND THE WORLD. IQ half a league broad; and half a mile from the fouth point of that ifland lies another, about the fame width, and fix miles long; both thefe ifiands lie in the above direction, and occupy the middle of the branch, having a great number of ifiets on their north-eaft fides, and fome rocks on their oppofite fhores. Here were fcen five Indians, who were very fhy. The party caught fome young ducks, but they were very fifliy, and bad eating. The adjacent country is moderately high, and was covered with timber of large growth, excepting towards point Hugh, which is a lofty rocky promontcfey, from whence extends a ledge of rocks, where the fea broke with con- fiderable force. Owing to the badnefs of the weather thefe rocks were not paffed until ten at night on the Gth, and even then not without the moft imminent danger, occafioned by a heavy rain and the darknefs of the night, which prevented the party from difcovering their perilous fituation uatil they were nearly amongft the breakers, when* by timely and great exertion, they happily paffed clear of them, and refted for the ni^jt, about a mile on the north-eaft fide of that point. The rain continued, with a ftrong gale from the fouthward, vmtil the forenoon ot the /th, when the atmofphere becoming, more clear, their fituation was difcovered to be on the weftern fide of the branch which was fcen from G 2 point li 20 a Voyage of discovery [august*. point Gambler, enfolding to the northward, about four miles.; in width; but was now feen to take a more wefterly direction, nearly parallel to* Seymour's channel, which the party had quitted r and making the intervening fhore a long narrow ftrip of land. The oppofite or north-eaft fide of this northern branch is cornpofed of a compact range of flupendous motmtflrins, chiefly barren, and covered with ice and Slow. The route of the party was along theibuth-weft fide; this is nearly ftrarght, compact, and free firom rocks or other interruptions, and favoured by a S. E. breeze, they advanced about twelve leagues from pomt Hugh ; where they ftopped for the night, oppofite to a high round ifland, lyiag in the fiddle of the channel - From this ftation, fituated in latitude 58& Vt longitude 225° &', in the morning of the 8thr they departed with calm rainy weather, and pur- fued their refearches along the weftern fhore, which now took a diroftion N. 10 W. eight miles, to a point named by me Pout*1 Ardsnv where this branch divided into three arms ; that which appeared to be a continuation of the arm they had been navigating took a north-eafterly direction; the fecond, lying about a league to< the N. W. not more than half a milewide, took a north-wefterly direction, and, apparently, made the land on its fouth-weft fide an ifland. About three ff^4.] ROUff© THE WOULD. 21 three leagues up this arm is a fn^Lifiet nearly in mid-channel. This afforded another iaftance of the partial exiftcace of the ice, which here inr tirely blocked up this arm, whilft the others were free from any fuch inconvenience. The third and wideft arm took a general courfe N. 81 W. and is about a leag*a£ in width; this agreeably to our ufual practice was firft purfued along the fbuthem fhore about five leagues to point Young, forming the eaft point pf a cove, with an ifland and rock in its entrance, and another at the bottom of the cove. At this point the width of the arm decreafed to about half a league, and from it the fbuthern fhore ilretched N. 42 W. At the diftance of about {even miles the eaft point of another feiall cove was reacted, with an iflet lying near it. At the back of :fcfais iflet was an Indian village, and another was feen on an oppofite point lying north, about a league and a half from this cove, on the ianwLSenning the north fide of the arm, and feem- ed to be the north-weft point of the land befor£ ffnentkxrjfed, appearing to be an ifland. As Mr. Whidbey advanced from this cove, the fliore frill continuing the fame line of direction, he recognized the fpot, from whence in his excursion from Crofs found, on the night of the 1 8th of July he had retired, in confequence of the hoflilt behaifiioiar of the natives, and he now C3 became 22 a voyage of discovery [august, became fatisfied that he had been miftaken in fuppofing at that time the branch to be clofed; as it was now evident that it communicated with that which the party had thus navigated, making the intermediate land, which had hitherto been confidered as a part of the continent, one exfainfive ifland, which I called Admiralty Island. In order however that no doubt fhould in future arife, Mr. Whidbey proceeded to point Retreat. After paffing the village, wThich from that point lies S. 33 E. at the diftance of about ten miles, the boats were followed by many large and fmall canoes; and as the evening was drawing near, to get rid of fuch troublefome ivifitors a niufket was fired over their heads, but this as before had only the effect of making them lefs ceremonious ; this was proved by their exertions in paddling to come up with our party, which they did very faft, until another fhot was fired at the largeft canoe, and was fuppofed to have ftruck her, as the Indians all fell back in the canoe, and were quite out of fight; they, however, managed to bring their canoe's ftern in a line with the boat's fterns : in that fituation they paddled backwards with all their ftrength, and at the fame time fcreened every part of their perfons, by the height and Spreading of their canoes' bows, excepting their hands, which, in the act of paddling only I7Q4.] ROUND THE WORLD. 23 only became vifible, fo very judicioufly did they ■provide for their fafe.ty in tttdur flight; in which, felling gained fome diftance from our party, who had qjuietly purfued their courfe, the canoes flopped for a' fhorfcldme, as if for confutation, but $€*gblmadeilhe beft of Ulfir way back to the vil- i&^^figif Mr. Whidbey projgeededrjpithout fur- ifehtei^iwir&prtion to point Jletreat. In this route thdirwiy paffed 3Dryj<|lte fouth weft fitiojof a very karridairiifland,'tabout hahra&iiiJc broadband about a league and an half long; this before had been ^paftbd on its noithfeaifbiiide, moth* i^fcfejsfifcfefc 18th of July, h *tim. SJwrk^rhat it was not dlfcovercd to be an .iflamd. The channels about Wudbqfourths'wfbDjaiiie- wirie,biijhieb was now purfued, is by tfdcfess Wnd ifiets^-tendeiWt- G^&iBjgttnfafe .and intrhStteifeith tha*ttmentioned 0:1 the former furvQMfcAhat theSeommuifiEation fctrtween thefe two ext'enfive -branches of sAt- oceatnits^cbv tneieJfctffcediments, 'etw xaanserous for the^d^v^igatfkm ojnflilppirig. "fentirife fsa&tfxi weft channel aboufikfletegue frQCpupoinbRetreat, * on the lout hern fn ore, is a deep cove, which, with the imoAow.itiktsA- dyihgobenjrtfsk^ferms a very fnug harbour, of good aceefs by the. paftage round tO'^feernbrth afrpoint Re{rrealrrJ2$[ theorpeky part of the dbanndrfiies to the fosiih^aft of this cove, to whkif Mr. Whidbey ga.YS>tftesname of Bab? low's Cove. Th»iiliores of Admiralty ifland, C 4 which A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST, which now had been completely circumnavigated, and found to be about fixty leagues in circuit, are, excepting at this and its fouth-eaftern part, very bold, afford many convenient bays, likely to admit of fafe anchorage, with fine ftreams of frefli water flawing into risem, and prefented an afpe& very different from that of the adjifcent continent, as the ifland in general is moderately elevated, and produces an uninterrupted foreft of very fine timber "trees, chiefly of the pine tribe; whilft the iliores of the continent, bounded by a continuation of thofe lofty frozen mountains, which extend fouth-eaftward from mount Fairweather, rofe abruptly from the water-fide, and were covered with perpetual fnow, t^hilft their fides were broken into deep ravines or vallies, filled with immenfe mountains of ice. Such was the contraft exhibited at point Retreat, where MiL Whidbey had an opportunity of feeing feveral of thejj&ints that had been fixed by his former obfervattons, and which, on the prefent occafion, affifted him in correcting ehis furve)ijb£or he had thus far been able to procure but one obfervation for the latitude, fince his leaving port Conclufion. From point Retreat the party returned to Barlow's cove, where they refted for the night. The next morning a ftrong gale blew from the S. E. with a very heavy fall of rain; this greatly impeded 1794.] ROUJTfc THE WORLD. ^5 peded their progrefs in their way down this paf- fage, which dividing Admiralty ifland from the c<&ntinent, obtained the name of Stephens's Passage ; the pokit on which the northern village is fituated, was found to be, as had before been conjectured, the weft point of entrance into the narrow icy arm, in which was again ieen the iflet noticed the preceding morning in anE. S. E. dire&ion, whence it was clearly afcertained, that the intermediate land, formitig the north fide of Stephen's pafiage wTas an ifland which after the Bifhop of Salifbury, I named Douglas's Island ; it is about twenty miles long, and fix miles broad in the middle, but becomes narrow towards each end, partioobaly that to the eaft- ward, where it terminates m a fharp point; the channel between this ifland and the main land, being rendered by the ice impaflable, the boats were fleered over to the fbtrthern fhore for pro* tection againft the ibuth-eaft wind, which had now become fo violent, that it was late in the evening before they had pafled the fouthernmoft village ; and after- they had proceeded about three miles to the eaft ward of iijethey refted for the night. Although the party had been a confiderable time within fight; of the village of thefe unfriendly people, not a fingle individual had been feen ; but they were heard making a moft hideous illii 2§ A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST, ous and extraordinary noife in r.^wr ihoufes, the found of which reached the refting place of our party, by whom it was fuppofed, thafc: fome perfon of confequence had Sheen hurt by the fhot fired the preceding evening at | the larger eanoe, and which not improbably had beenftb^rjsfccafion of their hafty retreat. Inetfee morning of the 10th they were vifited by *a> old Ifcdian man, and a boy, who aiter receiyingnfome prefects went about their bufindfs,. and our party proceeded to the arm leadtiigbto the north-eaft from Stephens's pafiage, having its weftern point of entrance, which I have called Polnt Salisbury, fituated in latitude 58° ll7, longitude 226° 3y, in which the great quantity of gating ice, with a ftrong northerly wind againft them-, fo retarded their .piiigr&fSs, that a paffage was with great.difficulty effected ; the weather here was feverely cold, with, frequent fhowers of fleet and rain. From its entrance it extended N. 11 E., about 13 miles, wrhere the fhores fpread to the eaft and weft, and formed a bafon about a league broad, and two leagues acrofs, in aN.W. and S. E. direction, with a fmall ifland lying nearly at its north-eaft extremity. From the fhores of this bafon a compact body of ice extended fome diftance nearly all round ; and the adjacent region was compofed of a clofe connected continuation of the lofty range of frozen mountains, 1794.] ROUND THE WORLD. *2J mountains, whofe fides, almoft perpendicular, were formed entirely of rock, excepting clofe to the water fide, where a few fcattered dwarf pine trees found fufjficient fo:J to vegetate in; about thefe the mountains were Wrapped in perpetual froft and-Stew. From the rugged gullies in their fides were projected immenfe bodies of ice, that xeashed perpendicularly to the furface of the water in the bafon, which admitted of no landing place for the boats, but exhibited as dreary and inhofpatable an alpcct as the imagination can pcfBbtj^ fuggeft. The rife and fall of the tide in this fituation was very confiderable, appearing: to be upwards* of eighteen feet. The examination of this bafon, &c. engaged'the party until near noon of the 1 ith> when they returned lalong the eaftdrn fhore, which is a continuation of the fame ranee of loftv mountains rifine O J o abruptly from the water fide; by dark they reached the ifland mentioned or the 7tl J<3 Ur ins in trr here they took up middle of Stephens's pafTaj their lodging for the night, which was very Ifttfcmy from the fouth-eafifward, and attended with a heavy rain. In the morning of the 12th the wind became more moderate, but the rain continued with an extremely unpleafant crofs fea, which the violence of the wind during the night had occafioned. This greatly retarded the ir progrefs down the pafiage, the eaftern fhore w 28 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST, of which was found to be much indented with fmall bays, and to take a general direction from a fpot oppofite to the ifland they had quitted S. 41 E., about twelve miles, to a point which I named Point Styleman, forming the north- weft point of a harbour, fituated in latitude 57 53;, longitude 226° 22;; the oppofite point of its entrance lying from it S. 33 E., at the diftance of two miles. This harbour, which obtained the name of Port Snettisham, firft extends about a league from its entrance in a north-eaft direction, where on each fide the fhores form an ex> tenfive cove, terminated by a fandy beach, with a fine ftream of frelh water. On the north- weft fide of entrance is a fmall cove, in which there is alfo a run of water, with an iflet lying before it. The fhores are high and fteep, and produce very few trees. Several fmokes were feen, but none of the inhabitants made their appearance. From the fouth point of this port, which I called Point Anmer, the fhore takes a direction S. 2Q E., nine or ten miles, to a point, that obtained the name of Point Coke, and which forms the north point of a deep bay, about four miles wide, which I called Holk- ham Bay ; this the party did not reach until the morning of the 13th, when, nearly in the middle of it, were found three fmall ifiands; to the wefternmoft of which a fhallow bank exT tended *7Q4.] ROUND THE WORLD. 20 tended from each fide of the bay, which is bounded by the ftill continued lofty range of mountains. Much floating ice was feen within the ifiands. From point Coke, in a direction S. 43 W., two miles and an half, are two rocky iflets, nearly in the middle of the branch, and from the fouth point of this bay, which I called Point Astley, the fhores are very rocky, and contain many fmall open coves, taking a fouth- erly direction thirteen miles, to a point which obtained the name of Point Windham, fitu- ated in latitude 57° 3l', longitude 230° 3&. This point forms the eaftern point of entrance into Stephens's pafiage ; here they again arrived in the fpacious part of the inlet noticed from point Garnbier. As the party advanced feveral iflets were feen in various directions, and from point Windham, on the eaftern fide, were fome bays ; the fhores took a^general direction S. 25 E., twelve miles and an half, to a point named by me PoUp^ Ho BART, being the north point of a fmall branch, where the party refted for the night, and on the following morning they found its poifj$»- of entrance to lie from each other N. 11W. and S. 11 E., about a league afunder. From its en- trance it extends S. 70 E., five or {ix miles, where it terminated. Some iflets and funken^ rocks lie near its fouth point, whieh I called Point w\ SO A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST, Point Walpole. From point Hobart extends a bank of fand a little diftance from the fhore, but there is a clear pafiage between it and the iflets. within which, it forms a fnug harbour, with foundings at a confiderable diftance from the fhore from ten to fix fathoms water, fand and muddy bottom. It is bounded by lofty mountains, and from their bafe extends a fmall border of low land forming the fhores of the harbour, which I called Port Houghton. On quitting this place many rocks were feen along the fhores, which took a direction S. 12 W., fix miles and a half, to a very confpicuous low projecting point, which obtained the name of Cape Fansiiaw, fituated in latitude 5/° II7, longitude 226° 44J'. Here was icen an old deferted fo village, ana a lpaci of the -ilftt sieht inlet ei^ miles wide, leading to the eaftward and fouth- eaft. From its very extenfive appearance in thefe dictions, Mr. Whidbey became apprehenfive, left their utmoft exertions fhould not enable them to draw their labours to a conclufion during his prefent excurfion, and for this reafon he loft no time in proceeding, along its northern fhore, which from cape Fanfhaw takes a direction S. 00 E., fixteeii miles, to a low narrow point of land two miles long, and half a mile broad, ftretchirig fouth from the general line of the coaft on 17Q4.] " ROUND THE WORLD. 31 on each fide of it; but this diftance, owing to the badnefs of the weather, and a ftrong gale from, the eaft ward, was not reached before the 15 th in the afternoon. At this low point, which I called Point Vandeput, the width of the branch decreafed to about three miles and an half, in a fouth direction, to a fteep bluff point, where," as alfo from this ftation, the fhores of the branch took a more foutherly courfe. | South from thwspoint a fhoal extends about a mile, and on its eaftern fide a fmall bay is formed, from whence the eaftern fhore trends S. 34 E., feven; miles, to another point, where a fhoal ftretches oot about three fourths of a mile from the fhore; this prevented the boats approaching the point,; although feveral attempts wrere made, in the hope of gaming fhelter from the inclemency of the weather, but itxwas to no effect, and the party was obliged to remain cold, wet, and hungry (having no provifions cooked) in the boats, l^th; when the wea- until the morning of the ther became fair and clear, and fhe d their fituation to be before a fmall extent of low flat: land, lying immediately before the lofty moun-? tains, which here rofe abruptly to a prodigious height immediately behind the border. A few miles to the fouth of this margin the mountaalbv extended to th$rfvater fide, where a part of them.^ pre mtec 32 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST* prefentcd an uncommonly awful appearance, rifinsr with an inclination towards the water to a o vaft height, loaded with an immenfe quantity of ice and fnow, and overhanging their bife, which feemed to be infufficient to bear the ponderous fabric it fuftained, and rendered the view of the paffage beneath it, horribly magnificent. Soon after pairing this very remarkable promontory, the arm of the fea over which it hangs appeared to be entirely dofed by a beach, extending alt round the head of it; at the fouth - eaft extremity was a large body of ice, formed in a gully between the mountains that approach the water-fide, from whence, much broken ice feemed to have fallen, and had entirely covered the furface of the water in that direction. From the fouth-weft corner irTued a narrow ftream of very white water, that feemed to have obtained this appearance by the melting fnow draining through the low land that was feen lying in that direction; and as it was confidered not to be navigable, Mr. Whidbey was anxious to lofe no time in the further extenfion of his refearches. Having now been abfent longer than the time for which the party had been fuppliedj and being diftant upwards of an hundred miles from the veflels, towards which they had to proceed along a coaft, the principal part of which might re^ quire 1/04.] ROUND the world. 33 quire a very minute examination ; he made the beft of his wTay back, along the fouthern fhore of the branch. We became afterwards informed by Mr. Brown of the Jackal, that the above narrow ftream was found, on his iubfequent vifit to this place,* to afford a pafiage for canoes and boats, and that it communicated with the apparently fhoal inlet that Mr. Johnftone had made feveral unfuccefs- ful attempts to enter on the 28th of Aug;uft, 1793. Mr. Brown alfo- ftated, that the intervening land which had the appearance of forming the head of the arm between its fouth-eaft and fouth-weft extremities, is an ifland, fituated on a very fhallow bank, which, at the depth of a few feet, connects the two fhores, and at low water fpring tides becomes dry. This may ferve to account for the report of the Indians to Mr. Brown the preceding year, and which he obligingly communicated to me on the 21 ft of July, 1793, refpecting Ewan Nti/i, by which means an inland navigation for canoes and boats is found from the fouthern extremity of Admiralty inlet, in latitude 4-7° 3;, longitude 237° 18/, to the northern extremity of Lynn canal, in latitude 59° 12', longitude 224 34'. By this information it likewife appeared, that our conclu- fions at the end of the laft feafon, refpecting cape Vol. VI. D Decifion 34 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST, Decifion being a continental promontory were not precifely correct, as, by the fhallow boat paf- fage difcovered by Mr. Brown, that cape is found to be feparated above the level of high water mark from the continent. Mr. Whidbey obferves, that in no one inftance during his refearches, either in the feveral branches of Prince William's found, in thofe extending from Crofs found, or, in the courfe of his prefent excurfion, did he find any immenfe bodies of ice on the ifiands ; all thofe which he had feen, on fhore, were in the gullies or vallies of the connected chain of lofty mountains fo frequently mentioned, and which chiefly conftituted the continental fhore from Cook's inlet to this fta tion ; though, in different places, thefe mountains are at different diftances from the fea fide. He like wife obferves that all the ifiands, or groups of iflands, were land of a moderate height, when compared with the ftupendous mountains that eompofe the continental boundary, and wTere ftiii feen to continue in a* fouth-eaftern direction from this fhallow pafFage, whilft the land to the leftward affumed a more moderate height, was free from fnow, and produced a foreft oY lofty pine trees. Thefe obfervations more particularly applying to the former, than to the fubfc- quent, part of this furvey, I have, for that -reafon, thought 9TJ 5704-] ROUND THE WORLD. 35 thougffi proper to introduce them in this place, and fllall now refume the fubject of Mr. Whid- b^y's excumon. The day being fair and plealant, Mr. Whidbey Wiffeed to embrgce this opportunity of drying tite$rh#€t clothes, '^feiimg- their arms in order, and j^tfing a thoro&gh cleaning to the boats, which^wJflS the continual bad s^eather, had now become an object of real necelfity. For this purpofe theparty landed on a commodious beach; but before they had finifhed their bufinefsalargd canoe arrived, containing fome women and children, and fixteen ftout Indian men, well appointed with the arms of the country, but without any fire-arms. They behaved in a very friendly manner on the beach far a little time, but their conduct afterwards put on a very fufpicious appearance; the children withdre^Sjoto the woods, and the reft fixed their daggers round their wriftg^ and exhibited other indications, not of the moft t&itedly nature. To avoid the chance of any thing unpleafanfrtaking place, Mr. Whidbey con- fidered it moft humane and prudent to depart, and he continued his route down the branch along its fouth-weft fhore, parting fome iflets that lie near it. The Indians did thi'iame, but kept -on the oppofite fhore, and in the courfe of a little siftiie the canoe difappeared. In the hope of beting quit of thefe people the party flopped to dine D 2 near 3(3 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST, near the high bluff obferved from point Vande-. put, but before they had finifhe-d their repaft the fame Indians, who muft have turned back un- perceived, for the purpofe of crofting oveg to follow the boats, were feen coming round the point- of the cove in which was the party, and•»Shift more than a quarter of a mile from their dinner ftation; as the canoe approached a mufket eiifefr fired over it, in order to deter the Indiaa&rfrom advancing; but this, as on former occafions, feemed to encourage them, and they!appeared to come forward with more eagernefs, but oora fecond fhot being fired at the canoe theyiiftant- ly retreated with all poffible fpeed, and werefclm again behind the point: yet as Mr. Whidbey fuf- pected they might be inclined to attemptiiyfur- prife, that wh^h they dared not venture to do ooenlv, he hafiened the meal of his party, and put off from-'the fhore ; this was fcarcely effected, when his conjectures were proved to have been "^dl founded, by the appearance of a number of -armed people iifuingfrom the woods, exactly at ttheifpot where our party had dined ; and" nearly fatnfcfrd fame inftantacHTtime, the canoe was again iJfeto:paddlinglrjonSki<the point of the cove. Tins icpndi&Sycfarfthe part of the Indians, great- •'dtj^iittracted the edWerfyafeipn of the party, and -■sdfthfetfed^^wJsrelwatchinsr the motions of thefe opsbpdf^^p^^lattf^i^ai^ ■ ^©^-s&^fcnly and moft Ti2n agreeably 17Q4S] ROUND THE WORLD. 37 agreeably called to an object of more pleafing concern; that of the boats under Mr. John- ftone's direction, coming within fight about two miles diftant. The ftratagem thus practifed by thefe Indians is alone fufficient to fhew; that our apprehen- fions on board, for the fafety of our abfent friends, had not been without reafon; and it js one, amongft many other circumftances, which taught me to believe, that we were but juft in time, for the accomplifhment of the arduous and hazardous fervice in which we had been fo long engaged ; as the very unjuftifiable conduct of the traders on this coaft, has encouraged the inhabitants to attempt fuch acts of hoftility, that the • means we poffeffed to repel their attacks, would, in all probability, have been infufficient for our protection, had it been our lot to have tried the experiment one year later. On the fight of the two other boats all the Indians difappeared, and our two parties were not long before their forces were united. It was immediately underftood that Mr. Johnftone had examined the coaft from cape Decifion to this ftation. On this occafion Mr. Whidbey remarks, that it is not pofiible for language to de- fcribe the joy that was manifefted in every countenance, on thus meeting their comrades and fallow-adventurers, by which happy circum- P 3 fiance/ A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST fiance, a principal object of the voyage was brought to a conclufion; and the hearty congratulations that were mutually exchanged by three cheers, proclaimed not only the pleafure that was felt in the accomplifhment of this laborious fervice, but the zeal with which it had been carried into execution, and the laudable pride that had been entertained by both parties, in having been inftrumental to the attainment of fo grand an object. The little fquadron now proceeded to a cove about a league to the weftward, where they took up their abode for the night. In the courfe of the evening no fmall portion of facetious mirth paffed amongft the feamen, in confequence of our having failed from old England on thefirf of April, for the purpofe of difcovering a north-weft paffage, by following up the difcoveries of De Fuca, De Fonte, and a numerous train of hypothetical navigators. Early in the morning of the 17th both parties lat out on their return to port Conclufion, and being favored with a frefh gale from the S. E. they made great progrefs under fail. In the event of the two parties meeting, and confequently a finifhing ftroke being put to the examination of the fhores of North-Weft America within the limits of my commiffion ; Mr. Whidbey had my diredions to take poffeffion of the I794-] ROUND THE WORLD. 3§ the faid continent, from New Georgia north- weftward to cape Spencer, as alfo, of all the adjacent ifiands we had difcovered within thofe limits ; in the name of, and for, Flis Britannic Majefty, his heirs, and fuccefibrs: this, on the parties flopping to dine, was carried into execution ; the colours were difplayed, the boats' crews drawn up under arms, and poffeffion taken under the difcharge of three vollies of mufketry, with all the other formalities ufual on fuch occa- fions, and a double allowance of grog was ferved to the refpective crews, for the purpofe of drinking His Majefty's health. The happy meeting of the two parties, having taken place on the birth-day of His Royal Flighnefs Frederick Duke of York, the found in which they met I honored with the name of PrinceFrederick's Sound, and the adjacent contine^, north-weftward from New Cornwall to Crofs found, with that of New Norfolk. From hence the boats made the beft of their way to the vefTels, without any particular occurrence, until they arrived at port Conclufion, wrhen the wind blowing very hard from the fouth ward, brought with it a heavy confuted fea, which, with the meeting Gf the tides, produced a kind of race. Here the boats, for fome time, were in a moft critical fituation, but by the great exertions of their crews, they were at length pre- D 4 ferved, ^ I ill m 4.0 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [aUGUS ferved, and arrived fafe, as has been before related. It now remains to recount the circumftances attendant on Mr. Johnftone's expedition ; who, from cape Decifion, found the exterior coaft firft take a direction N. 30 W. about three leagues, and then N. 10 W. about the fame diftance, to the north point of a harbour about a mile wide ; the intermediate fhore, between it and cape Decifion, has in it many fmall open 'bays, and at fome diftance from it, lie many rocks. This ftation was reached in the afternoon of the 3.d, the harbour was found free and ealy of accefs, by keeping near the fouthern fhore ; in general it is about a mile wide. At firft it takes a north- eaft courfe for about a league, and then termiT nates in a S. S. E. direction, about a league further, having fome i{let$i$knd rdcks in it, notwith- ftanding which it affords very excellent fhelter, with foundings from I 7 to 34 and 12 fathoms water. It is conveniently fituated towards the ocean, has its north point in latitude 56° Wmh longitude 225° 58', and obtained the name of Port Malmesbury. Its north point, which I have called Point FIarris, is rendered very remarkable, by its being a projecting point, on which is a fingle hill, appearing from many ..points of view like an ifland, with an iflet and .fome rocks extending near a mile to the fouth- weft *®M2 1/94.] R0U2D THE WORLD. 41 weft of it. North from hence, three miles and an half, and then N. N. E. about the fame diftance, is the fouth point of a large bay, full of innumerable iflets and rocks, with a great number of very fmall branches in various directions; its examination occupied much time, and its fouthern extremity reached to the latitude of 5 6Q 157, longitude 220° 15' ; its eaftern branch to latitude 55° 28', longitude 220° 181 ; and its northern extremity to latitude 5(3° 33;, longitude 226° J 2'. Between the two latter the party met with about a dozen of the natives, who occupied a Angle „habitation on the fhore, and were the firft people Mr. Johnftone's party had feen on this expedition. The 5th was very ftormy, with much rain, but the 0th was fair and pleafant, which enabled them to finifti the examination of this intricate found, and in the evening they reached its north-weft point of entrance, which I called Point Ellis, where they remained during the night. It is fituated in latitude 5(T fouth-eaft point of another fmall inlet, which is equally intricate, and as much incommoded with iflets and rocks. The examination of this employed the whole of the 7th, It forms a narrow arm, extending from point Ellis N. 50 E. for ten miles, where it terminates.. Here they found a fingle houfe, fimiltfr to. that before mentioned, f 1W 42 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST, and containing about as many inhabitants. From hence they returned along the northern fide of this arm, from half a mile to half a league in width, and about {even miles from its head to its north point, which forms alfo the fouth point of a bay or inlet, full of iflets and rocks, the north point of which, called by me Point Sullivan, From point Sullivan the fhores were lefs rocky, and became firm and compact, taking a direction N. 9 W. thirteen miles, to a confpicuous point, which after Vice Admiral Kingfmill, obtained the name of Point Kingsmill. From this point, which is the fouth point of the fpa- cious injet, up which Mr. Whidbey had purfued his refearches to the north-eaftward ; the fhores trended N. 47 E. fix miles and a half to another point, wThich I called Point Cornwallis, and which forms the fouth-weft point of entrance into an arm leading to the fouth-eaft, The fpace between thefe two points is occupied by two bays, each taking a fouth-eafterly direction, from a mile to half a league wide, and four or five miles deep, in which as ufual along the coaft were many iflets and dangerous rocks. The examination to this extent, employed the party until the 10th in the morning, when they quitted the main inlet, and purfued the arm leading to the fouth-eaftward, which firft took a direction 1794-] ROUND THE WORLD. 43 tion S. 08 E. for nine miles, and then S. 20 E. for feven miles and a half further; here a branch was entered about half a league wide, that took a S. S.-W. direction for about eight miles, where it terminated in latitude 50° 38i;. The fhores of the fouthern parts of this branch, which I have diftinguifhed by the name of Port "Camden, are pretty free from iflets and rocks, but thofe to the north-weft of it, are lined with them, and render the approaching of it extremely dangerous. The termination of this branch reaches in a north and fouth direction, within about two miles of the north-eaft extent of the fmall inlet which the party had examined on the 7th, and in the fame line, within about four miles of the northern part of that which had engaged them on the 5 th and 0th. So very tedioufly and flowly were our re- fearches carried into effect in this very broken and extraordinary region! At the head of the laft mentioned branch was a fmall Indian village confiftins; of three houfes, and containing about forty or fifty perfons. On meeting fome of the Indians here who had been feen in the fouthern branches, it gave rife to an opinion, that fome fmall pafiage exifted which had efcaped the notice of the party; but this Mr. Johnftone obferves was foon explained by the Indians who took up their canoe, and pointing to a fmall valley in a foutherly direction, made 44 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST, made figns that could not be miftakcn, that they had walked, and had brought their canoe, over the ifthmus. The next morning, although very wet and hazy, they returned along the eaftern fide of this arm, and paffed its north-eaft point, which from the head lies about N. N. E. at the diftance of about four leagues, near which are fome rocks. The party immediately entered another branch, about the fame breadth, which took firft a direction S. 08 E. for'about five miles, and then turned irregularly round to the fouth- wrard. The weather being clear about noon, the obferved latitude was found to be 50° 42', longitude 220° 25'. The branch in which they had thus advanced,.although two fhallow and rocky for the pafiage of any veflels larger than boats or canoes, and even for thern intricate and daiir gcrous, would not have been further examined, had not the tide been iound running in a very contrary direction, to that which had been obferved at its entrance, the flood tide here fetting to the northward. This circumftance gave rife to an opinion, that this branch would be found to communicate with the main inlet they had left under Mr. Whidbey's examination extending to the north-eaft; and fliQuld it make the intermediate very broken land an ifland, it would greatly facilitate their iurvey of what they fiup^ poled to be the continental fhore, This 1794.]. ROUND THE WORLD. 45' This hope induced Mr. Johnftone to perfevere, but inftead of the channel ftretching to the eaft- ward as it was' wifhed, and- expected to do, it extended to the weftward of fouth, and communicated with a bay in the north-weft part of Cla- iknce's ftrait, which had been examined by Mr. Johnftone on the 11 th of September, l 793; but this communication was not at that time afcer- raided, in confequence of the numerous" iflets, rocks,.and fhoals, that exift in that bay, and render it intirely unnavigable for fhipping. The party now diftinctly faw port Protection and the adjacent fhores, and having taken the neceffary anglesfrfifettitoifilfurther fiurvey would demand, they returned by the way they had arrived; but the progrefs of the boats was rendered very flow itjltthe nuinberlefs rocks and iflets, and the examination of the leifbral little bays into which the fhores wereibroken. To the.eaftward were feen -Jxigtttiitftant mountains covered with fnow, but the laind).^$heir neighbourhood was, comparatively fpeajiing, low, of a very uneven furface; ^BOiQh^iB^Mc^bf water, and covered with wood. .Mr. JIabhftone un#y]ii^itofloofe any atlv^rjfoige that prefenf&d itf^Miiftopped but a fhort time,'on the night of -|fte4 2th, in onjeifelbtf. he rntsfe take/ofee Den§gfc or u ^whMef^<^rn>ncflayout ■ haftffltter o IS^dfcfetPteh ifrfifeffoalon £?tj$e -eaftej round every ii! AQ a voyage OP DISCOVERY [AUGtTST^ every cove and corner ; for they could not by any other mode have determined its boundary, as they were at this time furrounded by a very thick fog* that obfcured every diftant object until about ten in the forenoon, when a frefh wefterly breeze brought fair and clear weather, and difcovered their fituation to be near the weft point of a fmall branch, in latitude 50° 50'', longitude.220° 10'. The adjacent fhores in all directions, but particularly to the north-weft, were lined with iflets and rocks, that extended nearly two miles into the opening, which was here about two leagues acrofs. This branch about a mile wide ftretched about five miles in an eaftwardly direction, and there it terminated ; but before the party had reached this extent, Mr. Johnftone ftates," that the remains of no lefs than eight deferted villages weriE feen; fome of them were more decayed-than the others, but they were all uniformly fituated on the fiummit of fome precipice, or fteep infular rock, rendered by nature almoft inacceffible, and hy art and great labour made a ftrong defence; which proved, that the inhabitants had been fubject to the incurfions of hoftile vifitors. Thefe fortified places were well conftructed with a ftrong platform of wood, laid on the moft elevated part of the rock, and projecting fo far from its fides as to oyerfpreaol the declivity. The ed§@M the 17Q4.] BOUND THE WORLD. 47 the platform was furrounded by a barricade raifed t>y logs of wood placed on each other. In the vicinity of thefe ruins were many fepulchres or tombs, in which dead bodies w^ere depofited. Thefe were made with a degree of neatnefs fel- dom exhibited in the building of their habitations. A wooden frame was raifed about ten feet from the ground, the upper half of which was inclofed, and in the open part below in many, though not in all of them, was placed a canoe ; the flooring of the upper part was about five feet from the ground, and above that the fides and top were intirely clofed in with boards, within which were human bodies in boxes wrapped up in fkins or in rj£atting. Thefe repofito- ries of the dead, were of different fizes, and fome of them contained more bodies than the others; in the largeft there were not more than four or five, lying by the fide of each other, not one appearing to be placed above the reft ; they were generally found near the water fide, and very frequently on fome confpicuous point. Many of thefe facred monuments feemed to have been erected a great length of time, and the moft ancient of them had evidently been repaired and ftrengfthened by additional fupportess of more modern workmanlhip. Hence it would appear, that whatever misfit be the enmity that exifted between, the feveral. tribes when living, their remains sH?f 48 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ["AUGUST, mains when dead were refpected and fuffered to reft quietly and unmolefted. Having fatisfied their curiofity in thefe reflects, and having gained the head of the.arm> they flopped to dine in a cove a little way from its termination. Hitherto the party had not {een any of the natives, but at this time they were vifited by feveral who came chiefly frorri the head of the arm, where they mult have been fecreted, or they could not have efcaped being noticed. The number of thefe people accumulated very fall, and in a very little time, they amounted to upwards of an hundred, amonsffc whom were a chief, and feveral of the Indians feen at the ifthmus on the preceding Thurfdav and Sunday. Whatever might be the real intention, or the difpofition of thefe ftrangers, their numbers and general appearance, induced Mr. Johnftone to dell re them to keep at a greater diftance ; this the Indians did not feem inclined to do, although every fign to that effect was made, and our party armed in readinefs for their defence. As their numbers increafed, fo were they encouraged to advance ; on fome mufkets being fired they flopped for a. fhort time, but foon again followed the boats as they returned down the arm, keeping juft without the reach of mufketry. Although thefe people had amongft them fome guns, and were otherways well armed with I 7 $4 J] ROUND THE WORLD. 40 with their native weapons, Mr. Johnftone did not impute to them any hoftile intention, but attributed the ardour with which they had ftriven to join our party, to a defire of bartering away their fea otter fkins, of which they appeared to have many, for European commodities. The fituation of the party on this occafion was in a very confined place, and being furrounded by fuch a tribe of armed Indians, with reafon to apprehend there might be others at no great difl tance, it became prudent to avoid, if poflible, a nearer intercourfe, by which alone the true fpirit of their defiVn could have been known, and in which they muft have been greatly interefted, as they continued to follow the boats, until after they had gained a more open fituation. One of the canoes now advanced before the reft, in which a chief flood in the middle of it, plucking the white feathers from the rump of an eagle, and blowing them into the air, accompanied by fongs and other expreflions, which were received as tokens of peace and friendfhip. The canoe was now permitted to come alongfide Mr. John- ftone's boat, to whom the chief inftantly pre- fented a fea otter fkin, for which Mr. Johnftone made him a fuitable return, with every expreffion. likely to be underftood of his pacific difpofition; the Indians feemed to be fincere in their profef- fions alfo, as they now came to the boats un^ Vol. VI. E armed, 50 a Voyage op discovery [august, armed, and with the utmoft confidence in their fecurity. Expreflions of mutual friendfhip were now exchanged, and on its being fignified to the chief, that as night was approaching the canoes fliould no longer follow the boats, he returned to the reft of his countrymen ; but they ftill continued to paddle after our boats until a muf- ket or two were difcharged, when they all dropped a-ftern and were no more feen. j However fatisfactory the latter part of the natives' conduct may appear to be, as to their friendly intenti< it a diftruft which prudence on fuch occafions ought always to fuggeft, induced Mr. Johnftone to proceed as far as he conveniently could before he flopped for the night; but as the fhore was quite fteep and compact they continued to row until after midnight, when they came to a grapnel, and relied in the boats. This day had proved extremely fatiguing to the people* as they had been nearly the whole of the twenty-^four hours on their oars. In this route they had reached the main arm of Prince Frederick's found, and had found the fhores to form a large rounding, though not lofty promontory, in which were feveral fmall open bays, and near it feveral detached rocks. This promontory obtained the name of Point Macartney, the weftern extremity of which is fituated in latitude 57° li', longitude 220° 12'. From hence WM^ the I7Q4.] ROUND THE WORLD. 51 the fhore trends N. 1 5 E. about a league, where the width of the found is about {even miles acrofs, in a direction N. 47 W. to point Nepean. From this ftation N. 28 E., at the diftance of about a league and a half lies a fmall ifland, with patches of rocks from this point reaching nearly to its fhores. The promontory ftill took a rounding direction about N. 05 E., five miles further, from whence the fouthern Ihore of the found extends N. 75 E. feventeen miles, to the weft point of a fmall cove, the only opening in the fhore from point Macartney; but off the little projecting points between this cove and that point, are detached rocks lying at no great diftance from the fhore. This extent was not reached until the afternoon of the 10th, in con- fcquence of the wind blowing hard from the eaft ward, attended with a neavy rain, againft which they contended with their utmoft exertions, left the exhaufted ftate of their provifions fhould oblige them-to retire before they could join the other party. This cove extended S. 34 E. about a league, where it terminated, and according to our furvev, formed a narrow ifthmus between it and the head of Duncan's channel, about two miles acrofs in a northern direction \ and is another linking inftance of the very ex- tenfive, and extraordinary infular ftate of the region lying before the weftern coaft of the E 2 American 5$ A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [AUGUST, American continent, between the 47th and 5Qth degrees of north latitude. Having dined, the party refumed their furvey along the fouthern fide of the found, which took nearly an eaft direction. They had not far advanced, when about five in the evening they had the joyful fatisfaction of meeting Mr. Whidbey and his party as before recited. Mr. Johnftone ftated, that the part of the coaft that had claimed his attention during his laft excurfion is a peninfula, connected with the more eaftern land by the laft mentioned narrow ifthmus, and that it is by no means fo high or mountainous as the land compofing the adjacent countries on the oppofite or north-eaftern fide of the found, which at no great diftance confilled of very lofty, rugged, dreary, barren mountains, covered with ice and fnow; but that the land compofing the peninfula was chiefly of moderate height, and produced a noble foreft of large and ftately pine trees of clean and ftraight growth, amongft which were a few berry bufhes and fome alders. The fhores along the bays and arms they had vifited were in general low, and prefented a probability that if the wood were cleared away, the foil of the country might be advantageoufly employed under cultivation. Thefe bays and arms abounded with a greater number of falmon and fea otters, than Mr. Johnftone If mmm 1704.] S ROUND THE WORLD. 53 ftone had obferved on any other part of the coaft ; and as they were found in the greateft abundance at the heads of thofe places, it was inferred that falmon, and other fmall fifh, form a large proportion of the food of the fea otters, which are thus induced to frequent thefe inland channels, to which at this feafon of the year fuch fifties refort. Mr. Whidbey in his obfervations on Admiralty ifland, remarks, that notwithftanding this ifland feemed to be compofed of a rocky fub- ftance covered with little foil, and that chiefly confifting of vegetables in an imperfect ftate of diflblution, yet like the peninfula juft adverted to, it produced timber, which he confidered as fuperior to any he had before noticed on this fide of America. He alfo flates, that in his two laft excurfions feveral places were foen, where the ocean was evidently incroaching very rapidly on the land, and that the low borders extending from the bafe of the mountains to the fea fide, had, at no very remote period of time, produced tall and flately timber; as many of their dead trunks were found flanding erect, and Hill rooted faft in the ground, in different ftages of decay ;' thofe being the moft perfect that had been the leaft fubject to the influence of the ^falt water, by which they were furrounded on every flood tide: fuch had be*©& the incroachment of the E 3 ocean 54 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [AUGUST, ocean on thefe fhores, that the fhorter flumps in fome inftances at low water mark, were even with, or below the furface of the fea. This fame appearance has been noticed before in port Chalmers, and on this occafion Mr. Whidbey quotes other inftances of. fimilar in- croachments not only in Prince William's found, but alfo in Cook's inlet; when obfer fimilar effects on the fhores, and is of opinion from thefe evidences, that the fhallow banks occupying fo large a part of Gray's harbour, have recently been produced by the operation of one and the fame caufe: and it is not lefs reafonable to conclude, that the waters of the North Pacific, have, poffibly for ages, had a general tendency to produce the fame effect, on all the coaft comprehended within the limits before mentioned. A return of fair and clear weather on the 1 8th enabled them to fee that large tract of broken land, lying between Crofs found and cape Ommaney, which has been defcribed as having a range of high mountains capped with fnow extending through it; but from thefe ftill continuing to have the appearance of being difunited in feveral places, it tended to corroborate our former opinion ; and although as before wx had not had an opportunity of afcertaining the fact, I have been induced to confider the country as being 179^'J ROUND THE WORLD. 55 being divided into many ifiands, and have for that reafon termed it an archipelago. The ftrait that feparates this land from the eaftern fhore, which after Lord Chatham, I have called Chat- ham Strait, Mr. Whidbey confiders as likely to be one of the moft profitable places for procuring the fkins of the fea otter, on the whole coaft; not only from the abundance obferved in the poffeffion of the natives, but from the im> menfe number of thofe animals, feen about the fhores in all directions. Here the fea otters were in fuch plenty that it was eafily in the power of the natives to procure as many as they chofe to be at the trouble of taking. I was alfo given to underftand by Mr. Brown of the Jackal, who followed us through thefe regions, that the fea otter's fkins which he procured there were of an extremely fine quality. The principal object which His Majefty appears to have had in view, in directing the undertaking of this voyage having at length been completed, 1 truft the precifion wTith which the furvey of the coaft of North Weft America has been carried into effect, will remove every doubt, and fet afide every opinion of a north-wefl paf fage, or any water communication navigable for fliipping, exifting between the North Pacific, and the interior of the American continent, within the limits of our refearches. The difcovery that E 4 no 56 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST, no fuch communication does exift has been zea- loufly purfued, and with a degree of minutenefs far exceeding the letter of my commilfion or inftructions; in this refpect I might polfibly have incurred the cenfure of difobedience, had I not been intrufted with the moft liberal, difcre- tionary orders, as being the fitteft and moft likely means of attaining the important end in quef- tion. The very detached and broken region that lies before fo large a portion of this coaft, rendered a minute examination altogether unavoidable : this had frequently the good effect of facilitating the labours of our furvey, by its leading us through narrow, fhallow, intricate channels, which cut offextenfive tracts of broken land, and by thus fhewing their feparation from the continent, their further examination became unimportant to the object of our inquiry. For this reafon I have confidered it effential to the illuftration of our furvey, to ftate very exactly not only the track of the veflels when navigating thefe regions, but like wife thofe of the boats when fo employed, as well when I was prefent myfelf, as when they were conducted by Mr. Whidbey or Mr. Johnftone, on whom the execution of that laborious and dangerous fervice principally fell, and to whom I feel myfolf indebted foretroe zeal with which they engaged in en '', fc-jftV it 1794-] ROUND THE WORLD. 57 it on all occafions. The perufal of thefe parts of our voyage to perfons not particularly interefted, I am confcious will afford but little entertainment ; yet I have been induced to give a detailed account, inftead of an abftract, of our proceedings, for the purpofe of illuftrating the charts accompanying this journal; of fhewing the manner in which our time day by day had been employed ; and, for the additional purpofe, of making the hiftory of our tranfactions on the north-weft coaft of America, as conclusive as pof- Jible, againft all fpeculative opinions refpecting the exiHence of a hyperborean or mediterranean ocean within the limits of our furvey. I fhali now conclude the account of our tranf- a^Lons at this place by the infertion of fuch aftronomical and nautical obfervations as were made during the time we paffed at this ftation. On the 2d of Auguft in port Conclufion the chronometers fhewthe following longitudes, viz. Arnold's No. 14, 225° 2>7'\ Arnold's No. 17O, 225° 38'; and Kendall's, 225° 34' 30'''; the true longitude being 225° 377 30;/, it appeared that Arnold's No. 14 was.^30' to the weftward, Kx- nold's No. I/O, 307 to the eaft ward, and Kendall's 21 30;/ to the weftward of the true lon- By eighteen fcts of obfervations taken between the 2d and 18th of Auguft on fhore with the artificial 5S A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY • [AUGUST, artificial horizon, Arnold's No. 14 was found to be fait of mean time at Greenwich at noon on the 18th of Auguft — 4h 38' 13" 30'" And to be gaining on mean time per day at the rate of, 24 oo Arnold's No. 17 0,fafl of meantime ? at Greenwich on ditto 10 13 33 00 And gaining per day at the rate of, — — 49 37 Kendall's faft of mean time at Greenwich on ditto Q 8 30 00 And gaining per day at the rate of, — — 20 11 The mean variation by two compaffes and eighteen fets of obfervations, differing from 24° Ql to 27° lo7, was — 25° 30' The latitude of the place of obfervation by four meridional altitudes, taken on fhore with the artificial horizon — 50 14 55 BOOK 1794.] HOUND THE WORLD. 5§ BOOK THE SIXTH. 'ASSAGE TO THE SOUTHWARD ALONG THE WESTERS" COAST OF AMERICA; DOUBLE CAPE HORN; TOUCH AT ST. HELENA; ARRIVE IN ENGLAND. CHAPTER I. Depart from Fort Conclufion—Arrival at Nootla— Tranfactions there—Vifit Maquinna at Tah- flieis—Aflronomical Obfervations for cor re cling the Survey between Cape Doiglas and Caps Decifion, rT^HE preparations that had been made for -*- our departing immediately on the return of the boats, proved of little importance, as the S. E. gale which commenced on the day of their arrival, continued with little variation to blow very violently from the direction in which I pur- pofed to fleer, attended with very heavy rain, and thick foggy weather until Friday the 22d in the evening, when the atmolphere became fome what clearer, and the wind more moderate. Although it continued to be contrary to our purfuit, yet being completely tired of remaining in this inactive folitary fituation, I determined to put to fea, and with the Chatham departed from port Conclufion. We plied towards the ocean, but If ;V 60 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST, but made little progrefs, as we were ftill attended by adverfe winds and thick foggy weather. It was not until the morning of Sunday the 24th that we reached the open ocean, in ac- complifhing of which, we were in imminent danger of lofing the veffels about twelve o'clock the preceding night, by being driven on cape Ommaney. The faint variable winds, and the great irregularity of the tides, fat us fo near to that promontory, and the rock that lies near it, that it required our utmoft efforts in towing to keep the veflels off from the land, and confe- quently from the inevitable deftruction that muft have followed. A very heavy wxftern fwell at this time broke with great fury not half a mile from us ; and as no anchorage, or even bottom could be found, our fituation for fome time was moft ferioufly alarming ; from which however, we were moft providentially extricated, by a gentle breeze fpringing up from the N. W. when in the moft perilous and critical ftate that can be imagined. This breeze by two in the morning, enabled us to gain a fufiicient diftance from the fhore, to allow the boats, which had been employed in towing the fliip from the rocks, to be taken on board. In the execution of this bufinefs we had the misfortune of lofing Ifaac Wooden, one of the cutter's crew, who unfortunately fell overboard ; 1794.] ROUND THE WORLD. 6t board ; and although a boat was inftantly fent to his affiftance, yet as he was no fwimmer, and as in falling he unluckily ftruck his head again ft the boat's gunwale, he funk fo immediately that no help could be afforded him. This poor fellow had afllfted in moft of the boat excurfions, was highly regarded by his comrades, and much regretted by his officers; in fhort, he was a good man, and an active failor ; and to commemorate his unexpected and melancholy fate, I named the rock which lies off cape Ommaney, Wood en's Rock. At day-light we had a frefh gale from the N. W. and having now finally accomplifhed fo much of my commiffion, as appertained to the difcovery of any navigable water communication, from the North Pacific into the interior of the American continent, my attention became directed to the adjuftment of thofe differences that had arifcn in my negociation with Senr- Quadra as to the celfion of Nootka ; under the idea that a fufficient time had now elapfed, fince the departure of Lieutenant Broughton, for the arrival of the necefiary inftructions at that place, by which I might be enabled to regulate my future conduct, with refpect to the reftitution of thofe territories to the dominion of our Moft Gracious Sovereign. In » if ill m M 02 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUGUST, In this expectation our courfe was directed fouth-eaft ward towards Nootka> pairing about three leagues to the weftward of the Hazy inlands; thefe form a group of fmall rocky iflets a league in extent, lying S. 7 E. at the diftance of H) leagues from cape Ommaney ; S. 02 W. from cape Decifion; and three leagues weft from Coronation ifland, which is the neareft land to them. At noon the fouthernmoll land in fight, being cape de St. Bartolom, forming the north point of entrance into Puerto del Baylio Bueareli, and difcovered by Sen1' Quadra in 1775, bore by compafs S. 87 E.; the neareft fhore was a conspicuous promontory, which I diftinguifhed by the name of Cape Addington after the fpeaker of the Houfe of Commons, N. 73 E., diftant four or five leagues; Warren's ifland in the enr trance of Clarence's ftrait, N. 9 E. ; mount Calder,N. 1 E.; Coronation ifland from N. 13 W, ' to N. 30 W. ; and cape Ommaney, N. 44 W« In this fituation the obferved latitude was 55* 2Q\'> and the longitude, agreeably to the pofition of feveral confpicuous flat ions as fixed by former obfervations, and now very accurately correfpond- ing, was found to be 225° 58' ; but by the chronometers, allowing their rate and error as afcer- tained at port Conclufion, the longitude was by Kendall's chronometer 220° 41, by Arnold's No. 14, 220° 3' 45'', and by No. 17O, 220° 15' 30"; hence 1794.] ROUND THE WORLD. 03 hence it would' appear, that fome alteration in their rate of going had taken place fince the laft obfervations were made in port Conclufion, on the evening of the 18th ; and particularly in No. 1 7^t which it is neceffary to remark, had been there taken on fhore for the purpofe of obfer- vation: In the afternoon we paffed cape del St. Bar- tolom, which, according to our obfervations, is iituated in latitude 55° 12i;, longitude 220° 34'. From this cape, in a direction S. 21 E. at the diftance of 14 miles, and 12 miles from the neareft part of the contiguous fhore, lies a very low flat rocky iflet, furrounded by rocks and breakers, that extend fome diftance from it; from thefe circumftances, and from its being fo far diftant from the main land, it is rendered one of the moft dangerous impediments to navigation that we had met with on the exterior coaft;, and hence it obtained the name of the Wolf Hock. S. 11 W. from this rock, at the diftance of three leagues, lies a fmall high ifland, named by Mr. Dixon, Forrefter's Ifland ; between thefe we pafled, and fo far as we became acquainted with the channel, it appeared to be clear and free from interruption. After paffing Forrefter's ifland (Monday 25) our courfe was directed towards the north-weft point of Queen Charlotte's ifiands, with an intention 64 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [AUGUST, tention of examining their exterior coaft, for the purp ofe set ins any error that might have occurred in our former furvey ; but this we were unable to accomplifh, on account of the thick hazy or foggy weather which for the moft part obfeured the land from our view, and when vifible, it was {een but indiflinctly. This weather was attended by calms, or light variable winds, fo adverfe to our purfuit, that it was not until Monday the lit of September, that we gained fight of the wefternmoft of Scot's ifiands. At noon this ifland bore by compafs N. 8 E. and our obferved latitude being 50° 2l', fhewed the longitude to be 230° 35'; but by the chronometers allowing the rate as before ftated, Kendall's chronometer gave 230° 40' 45;/; Arnold's No. 14, 230045r45/;; and No. 1 /0, 231° o' 15". Now, although we were not pofitiveiy certain as to the identical part of the ifland to which thefe calculations applied, (it being but juft vifible in the horizon) yet, concluding the longitude as had been afcertained by its bearings, and the obferved latitude of the fhip to be moft correct; the former opinion, that the chronometers had varied fince our laft obfervations by them in poit Conclufion, was now very much ftrengthened, as we were thoroughly convinced that no error, either in making the prefent or any of the former obfervations, had taken place; the moft particular ma I794-] ROUND THE WORLD. fj5 cular care and attention having ever been ob- ferved throughout the whole voyage on all fuch occafions. The wind at N. W. gradually increafed to a gentle gale, accompanied by clear and pleafant weather, which brought us by fix in the evening of the following day, Tuefday the 2d, to an an* chor in Friendly cove, Nootka found ; here we found His Catholic Majefty's armed veflels the Princiffa, Aranfafu, and the St. Carlos, belonging to the eftablifhment at St. Bias, with the Phoenix bark, commanded by Mr. Hugh Moor, from Bengal; the floop Prince le Boo, one of Mr. Brown's fquadron, commanded by Mr. Gordon from China, who had been employed in collecting furs during the fummer upon this coaft, moftly to the northward of Nootka; befide thefe Englifh traders, was the Wafhington, J. Kendrick, commander, of Bofton in America; who had been employed in the fame purfuit, but whofe veffel was now under repair. The Princiffa commanded by Senr Fidalgo had arrived from St. Bias only the day before, and had brought hither Brigadier General Don Jofe Manuel Alava, colonel of the regiment of Puebla, and governor of Nootka. The appointment of this gentleman as governor of Nootka had taken place in confequence of the death of our highly valuable and much Vol, VI, F efteemed 09 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [SEPT. efteemed friend Senr Quadra, who in the month of March had died at St. Bias, univerfally la-^ men ted. Having endeavoured, on a former occafion, to point out the degree of admiration and refpect with which the conduct of Senr Quadra towards our little community had im- prefied us during his life, I cannot refrain, now that he is no more, from rendering that juftice to his memory to which it is fo amply intitled, by ftating, that the unexpected melancholy event of his deceafe operated on the minds of us all, in a way more eafily to be imagined than defcribed ; and whilft it excited our moft grateful acknowledgments, it produced the deepefl regret for the lofs of a character fo amiable, and fo truly ornamental to civil fociety. The Difcovery having in the courfe of the day greatly outfailed the Chatham, the latter did not arrive until after dark ; for this reafon, our formal vifit to the governor was deferred until the day following. Mr. Puget had come down the coaft from Woody point, much nearer to the ihore than we had done; and from him I learned- that between the entrance of the found, and the "breakers which are about feven or eight miles to the weftward of it, he had met with much fea-* weed ; growing about two miles from the fhore in very irregular depths of water, from nve to ten fathoms, rocky bottom, until within about iW.' tWO If esi 1794.] ROUND THE WORLD. 6*7 two miles of Friendly cove, when the fea-weed difappeared, and the depth of water greatly in- creafed. On Wednefday morning the 3d, we waited upon the governor, who flill refided on board the PrincifiTa, where we were received by him and Senr Fidalgo with marks of the moft polite and friendly attention. I was foon given to understand by Senr Alava, that his appointment to this government had taken place as above flated for the particular purpofe of finifhing the pending negociation, refpecting the ceffion of thefe territories; which, in confequence of the different conftruction put on the firft article of the Spa- nilh convention, of the twTenty-eighth of October 1790, by the late Senr Quadra and myfelf, had, fince the month of September 17Q2, been intirely fufpended. The prefent governor however wras full unprovided with the credentials neceflary for finifhing this bufinefs; but on his departure from St. Bias in June, thefe documents were hourly expected, and a veffel was waiting there in rea- dinefs to be difpatched to this port, provided they arrived in time for her reaching Nootka on or before the 15th of October ; but in the event of her not being able to effect a paffage by that time, fhe was to repair to Monterrey. In confequence of this arrangement Senr Alava purpofed to remain here until that period fhould arrive; F 2 and 6S A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [SEPT. and as no communication from England, either of a public or private nature, had yet reached me, I confidered it to be highly probable, that a duplicate of my inftructions for the like purpofe might be tranfmitted by the fame conveyance. Under this impreffion, and the confideration of many other circumftances relative to the fituation of both veflels, I thought it moft advifeable to determine on remaining till that period with Senr Alava; indeed it was not very likely, from the various important duties we had now to execute, with the inadequate means we poffefled for doing fo, that we fhould be enabled to proceed much before that time. Our flore of cordage was completely exhausted, nor had we a fathom of rope but what wTas then in ufe; the whole of it was much worn, and had been fpliced in feveral places, and therefore it became neceffary to contrive fome means for procuring a fupply before we could venture to fea again. The quantity which our Spamfh friends, or the trading veflels In this port, wTere likely to afford us, was very inadequate to out neceffities, which obliged us to refort to the expedient of converting fome of our cables into cordage. This would neceffarily prove a tedious bufinefs, efpecially as we had to conftruct a machine for that purpofe. The Chatham was not only in a fimilar predicament with refpect to cordage, but flie required caulk* ing, 1794.] ROUND THE WORLD. fig ing, and immediate repair in fome of her plank, that was found to be rotten. Both veflels demanded many fpars to be cut and prepared; the fails and cafks flood in need of great repair; and it had become effentially important, that the ob- fervatory fhould be erected on fhore, for the purpofe of afcertaining more pofitively the rate and error of our chronometers, in order to correct our furvey from cape Douglas to cape Decifion!; for notwithftanding that I had little doubt in my own mind of the mode that had been purfued, yet I was fenfible that correfponding obfervations at this place would be very fatisfactory. With thefe objects in contemplation, our time was not likely to be unprofitably employed; and although I would gladly have poftponed the execution of thefe feveral talks until our arrival in a more fouthern clime, where we had reafon to believe the weather would be more favorable to our wifhes, and where the neceflary refrefhments of which we all flood fo much in need, might have been procured in great abundance; yet it would have been highly indifcreet, and extremely dangerous, for the veflels to have put to fea again, until a fupply of cordage could be provided. In addition to this, other circumftances feemed to demand, that I fhould remain within the reach of any difpatches that might have been forwarded through New Spain ; which could only be done 1 3 by 70 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [SEPT. by flaying here, or reforting to fome of the fouth- ern Spanifh fettlements, where we fhould lofe the advantage of procuring the fpars and plank which w^ere now required; and as moft of our bufinefs muft have been ill executed on board the veflels, I felt little encouragement, when I reflected on the treatment we had experienced the preceding year from the acting governor of California, to expect being indulged with per- miffion for performing it on fhore, in any of the ports under his jurisdiction. Thefe weighty confiderations induced me to refolve on continuing at Nootka until all our important operations were completed; and if in the mean time I fhould receive any inftructions for the government of my conduct, as to the refti- tution of thefe territories, by the expected Spanifli packet, or by any other conveyance, I fhould be upon the fpot to act with Sen1' Alava as the nature of my orders might require. I took an early opportunity of reprefenting to Senr Alava our neceffitpus condition, and re- quefted his permiffion to erect our obferyatory and tents on fhore. To this requeft he gave his moft hearty concurrence, and feemed very ear- neftly to regret, that the ftate of their eftablifh- ment precluded him from adminiftering to our wants in that effectual manner, to which he was prompted by his inclinations* ii#l$|| Senr 1794.J ROUND THE WORLD. f i' Senr Saavadra, who had remained in charge of Nootka fince our former vifit, joined our party on board the Princiffa, where the day paffed in making inquiries about the civilized world, and in deploring the turbulent and unhappy ftate of Europe. The melancholy circumftances that had been detailed by Mr. Brown, were now confirmed by thefe gentlemen to the clofe of the year 1793 ; and we became much concerned by the events that had happened, and alarmed at the- fatal confequences which it was natural to fup-» pofe they muft produce. The weather was gloomy with continual rain, but it did not prevent Maquinna and Clewpaneloo, with fome other chiefs, and a few of the natives, frorri vifiting the veflels. The two former received fuch compliments as were fuitable to their rank, with which they were highly fatisfied; and the latter difpofed of a fcanty fupply of fifli at a very exorbitant price. Fifh had become of great value amongft thefe people, as, either from the badnefs of the feafon during the preceding rummer, or from their neglect and inattention in providing their ufual fupply for the winter, they had experienced thegreateft diftrefs for want of provifions during that period; and had not Senr-3 Saavadra adminiftered to their relief, many of them would probably have fallen a facrifice to the fcarcity. And although the provident care F-4 he I 72 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [SEPT. he had taken was inadequate to all that was demanded of him, yet the afliftance he had been able to afford them, was, much to the credit of the natives, acknowledged by them with the moft grateful expreffions. The governor, Senrs Fidalgo, Saavadra, and fome others of the Spanifh officers, honored us with a return of our vifit on Thurfday morning the 4 th ; but in confequence of our reduced flock of powder, I was under the neceffity of declining the ufual ceremony of faluting, which was very politely excufed and difpenfed with by the whole party. The weather continued very rainy and un- pleafant until Saturday morning the Oth, when the clouds difperfed with a breeze from the weftward, and the weather became clear and agreeable. The tents, obfervatory, and inftruments, were now fet on fhore; the fails dried and unbent, and our various fervices were put in a train for execution, in which we were aflifted by fome Spanifh caulkers and carpenters, who were employed on board the Chatham; and on Monday following, the 8th, haying conftrudled a machine, we began making rope from the materials of a new bower cable. Whilft the wind continued in the weftern quarter, it regularly died away every evening; and though the night light airs prevailed from the t794«il ROUND THE WORLD. 73 the land, which were fucceeded by the refrefhing wefterly breeze from the fea in the day time, accompanied by cheerful pleafant weather; which, with the advantage of the fociety we here met, made our time pals as agreeably as could well be expected in thefe rude and diftant regions. On Wednefday the loth the wind again blew frefh from the S. E. and exhibited another of the very rare inftances of lightning and thunder in this country, which with torrents of rain continued moft of the night. The wind returned again to the weftward on Thurfday evening the 11 th, and brought with it fair and pleafant weather; with which the Aranfafu failed for St. Bias, and through Senr Alava's civility, I tranfmitted by this opportunity a letter to the Admiralty, Hating our having accomplifhed the furvey of North Weft America, and the expectation I was in of receiving their final inftructions for the accomplifhment of the other objects of my commiffion. Both wind and weather, as might reasonably be expected on the approach of the autumnal equinox, became now very changeable; on the 13 th the atmofphere was dark and gloomy, with ijrirtihg fhowers; and the wind from the S. E., which in the afternoon fuddenly fhifted to the N. E., blew in heavy fqualls, accompanied by a very Iki Jjj A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [SEPT. f0f heavy fall of rain. Notwithftanding that the wind came directly from the land, yet towards midnight, when the gale feemed to be. at its height, an extremely heavy fwell rolled in from the ocean, and broke with great fury on the fhores of the found that, were expofed to its influence ; and even thofe of this little cove were by the furge greatly annoyed. This kind of weather continued until Wednefday the 17th, and much retarded our feveral wrorks, which could not yet be confidered as in any ftate of forwardness. The violence of the equinoctial gales from this time feemed to have abated, and a feries of fair weather, with regular land and fea breezes, enabled our people to make all the progrefs that the tedious nature of their feveral labours would permit. Since our arrival we had occafionally been vi- fited by Maquinna, Clewpaneloo, with fome of the inferior chiefs, and many of the inhabitants, who fold us a few fifli, and brought to market fome venifon ; but moft of thefe people had now retired to their winter habitations up the found. Thefe Sen1" Alava expreffed a defire to vifit, and as we all knew that fuch an excurfion would be highly flattering to Maquinna, and to the other chiefs and people, a party was formed with three of our boats, and a Spanifh launch to carry the luggage, Notwithftanding that we were well perfuaded 1794.] ROUND THE WORLD. 75 perfuaded of the friendly difpolition of the natives, yet I confidered it neceffary that the boats fhould be equipped for defence, as on all other fuch occafions. The fettled ftate of the wrea- ther had now not only favored and forwarded all our tranfactions, but was extremely inviting to JO the relaxation we had in view. Senrs Alava and Fidalgo, with Mr. Menzies, accompanied me in the Difcovery's yawl; Mr. Puget, attended by fome of the officers of the Chatham, was in the cutter ; Lieutenant Swaine, with fome of the gentlemen cf the Difcovery, were in our rh rgrc cutter thofe the Spanilh launch, our party confifted of fifty-fix officers and men. No doubt was entertained that Maquinna, who had been informed of the honor intended him, would be in readinefs to receive us, and for this reafon our courfe was firft directed towards Tahfheis, the place of his refi- dence. But as we were not much affifted by the wind, it was near fun-fet before we arrived at a very pleafant fpot not far from Maquinna s village, where we pitched our tents; and as the day was too far advanced, our ceremonial vifit was deferred until the next day, and a meflage to that effect was font by Clewpaneloo, who had attended us from the fhips. But Maquinna, who with his people was in readinefs to receive us, inftantly difpatched a meffenger, requefting that 7$ A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [SEPT. that we would repair to his refidence that evening. This however we thought proper to decline, but in order that Maquinna might be fa- tisfied of our intentions to vifit him in the morning, fome of the gentlemen walked to the village, and explained to him, that it was the late- nefs of the hour only that prevented our then complying with his requeft. Matters being comfortably arranged for the night, centinels were planted, as well to avoid any furprize from the natives, as to prevent our own people from ftraying to their habitations, from whence difputes or mifunderftandings might have arifen; ftrict orders were iffued to this effect, and being uniformly adhered to, the night paffed without the leaft interruption. After breakfaft on Friday morning the 20th, we proceeded with the four boats to Tahfheis, and were welcomed on our approach to the fhore by a vociferous old man, exclaiming f Wacofli, Wacofh*" by which he meant to exprefs friend- fhip, and the good intentions of the natives towards us. Thefe fentiments being returned in a fimilar manner by our party, we landed, and were received by Maquinna and two of his brothers, Whaclaffe pultz9 and Tatoochfeatticus, with repeated expreffions of " Wacofli" until we were almoft ftunned with their gratulations. This ceremony being concluded, we were conducted through 179^.] ROUND THE WORLD. ftj through the village to Maquinna s habitation, where we were led to feats prepared and covered with clean mats at the upper end of the houfe. Having taken our feats, about thirty men began each to beat with a flick on a hollow board, in order to affemble the inhabitants of the village to that fpot; this fummons being readily obeyed, Maquinna informed the affembled crowd with great earneftnefs, and in a fpeech of fome length, that our vifit was to be confidered as a great honor done to him, and that it had taken place in confequence of the civil and orderly behaviour of all the inhabitants of the found under his authority towards the Englifli and the Spaniards. This, he obferved, was not the cafe with Wicananifh, or any other chiei whofe people committed acts of violence and depredation on the veffels and their crews that vifited their country; but that fuch behaviour was not practifed at Nootka, and that for this reafon they had been more frequently vifited : by which means, their wealth in copper, cloth, and various other articles of great value to them, had been increafed far exceeding that of any of their neighbours. He particularly mentioned fome tribes, but by appellations we were not acquainted with, over whom he feemed to con- fider our vifit to him as a great triumph ; and from his manner of fpeaking, there evidently appeared Ill; 78 A VOYAGE OP D'lSCOV'ERY [sepT« peared to exift no fmall degree of jealouly between them. He then proceeded to enumerate the various good qualities that marked the character of the Spaniards and the Englifh; that both were ftrongly attached to himfelf and his people, and that he hoped that we fhould be much pleafed by being entertained according to their manner of receiving vifitors. The performers I believe were all in readinefs without, and anxious to begin their part ; for the inftant Maquinna had ceafed fpeaking, the hollow board mufic recommenced, and a man entered the houfe moft fantafticaily dreffed in a war garment, which reached to the calves of his legs, but not below them; this was varioufly ornamented, as was alfo his face with black and red paint, fo that his features appeared to be molt extravagantly diftorted, or, more properly peaking, they were fcarcely diflinguifhable ; his hair was powdered, or rather intireiy covered with the moft delicate white down of young fea fowl, and in his hand he bore a mufket with a fixed bayonet, making altogether a moft fa- vage, though at the fame time a whimfical figure; this man was followed by about twenty more, decorated with confiderable variety after the fame fafhion, but differently armed ; fome like himfelf with mufkets, others with piftols, fwords, daggers, fpears, bows; arrows^, fifh gigs, and 1/Q4/J ROUND THE WORLD'. 7Q and hatchets, feemingly with intent to difplay their wealth and power, by an exhibition of the feveral implements they poflefled, as well for the ufe of war, as for obtaining the different necef- faries of lite. This prepofterous group of figures was drawn up before us; and notwithftanding we were perfectly fatisfied of the harmlefs and peaceable intentions of thefe people, yet I believe there was not one of our party intirely free from thofe fen- fations which will naturally arife from the fight of fuch unufual objects ; whofe favage and barbarous appearance, was not a little augmented by their actions and vociferous behaviour, accompanied by an exhibition, that confifted principally of jumping in a very peculiar manner. In this effort the leg of the exertion, h they fometimes raifed themfelves to a confiderable height; and we underftood that thofe were confidered to be the belt performers, who kept their feet conftantly parallel to each other, or in one certain pofition, with the leaft poflibie inclination of the knees. After thefe had finifhed their part, Maquinna performed a mafk dance by himfelf, in which, with great addrefs, he frequently and almoft imperceptibly changed his mafk ; this feemed to be a very favourite amufement of his, as he appeared to be in high fpirits, and to take great delight in .1 80 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY £sEPT„ performance. The mafks he had made choice of, certainly did credit to his imagination in point of whimfical effect; his drefs was different from that worn by any of the other performers, con- fifting of a cloak and a kind of fhort apron, covered with hollow fhells, and fmall pieces of copper fo placed as to ftrike againft each other, and to produce a jingling noife ; which, being accompanied by the mufic before defcribed as a fubftitute for a drum, and fome vocal exertions, produced a favage difcordant noife, as offenfive to the ear as the former exhibition had been to the eye. But as the object of our vifit was a compliment to Maquinna, a previous determination to be pleafed infured our plaudits, which were bountifully bellowed, and received with great pleafure and fatisfaction by the furrrounding fpec- tators. A paufe now took place in the entertainments, which however was foon filled up, to the great gratification of our hoft and,his friends. The prefents that had been provided for the occafion were now exhibited to public view, confifting of copper, blue cloth, blankets, ear fhells, and a variety of fmall articles of lefs value; thefe were feverally diftributed by Senr Alava and myfelf to Maquinna and his relations, according to the rank and confequence of each; in thefe tokens of our friendfhip we fucceeded fo well, that our liberal 1794-] BOUND THE WORLD. 81 liberal donations foon refounded through the village, and the glad tidings were received with loud acclamations of applaufe. On thefe fub* fiding, we had a fecond vocal and inftrumentai performance, which concluded by a return from Maquinna for the prefents wre had made. In this Maquinna did not perfonally appear; Whaclaffe pultz, acting as mafter of the ceremonies, firft addreffed Senr Alava in a fhort fpeech, refpecting the friendfhip that had fo long been eftab- lifhed between the Spaniards, and the tribes under thtfrauthority of Maquinna, who, he faid, was highly pleafed by the trouble he had taken in paying him thisridiftant vifit; and that, as a proof of Maquinna's fincerity, he was then about to make fome return for the repeated inftances of friendfhip he had experienced, by placing a fea otter fkin at the feet of Senr Ala\a. 1 then received a fimilar compliment, as did Senr Fidalgo and Mr. Pu^et, after which Senr Alava and my- felf were each prefented with a fecond fea otter fkin, wThich concluded the ceremonies of this, vifit. The day was not yet far advanced ; and being fair and pleafant, we amufed ourfelves in ftrolling through the village; and found it, although ex- tenfive, far from being numeroufly inhabited. This wTas accounted {or by Maquinna, who Hated, that many families weie ftili abfent, not having Vol, VI. G yet fm II 82 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY fpPTV yet procured their flock of provifions for the en-* filing winter feafcn; at which time, if all their habitations are fully occupied, its population cannot be much lefs than eight or nine hundred perfons, Maquinnas habitation was confider- ably larger than any of the others, and had a very fuperior advantage over them all by being lefs filthy; it was at prefent not more than half occupied, nor was itiihtirely covered in, though, it did not appear to have been recently erected; but we remained ignorant of the reafon why fo large a proportion of the roof remained unfinifh- ed. The conftruction of the Nootka houfes, efpecially with refpect to their infide, has been fo fully treated by Captain Cook, as to preclude any material addition from my pen; yet it is Angularly remarkable, (although particularly re- prefented in Mr. Webber's drawing of the village in friendly Cove) that Captain Cook fhould not have taken any notice whatever in his journal,; of the imm%nfe pieces of timber which are raifed, and horizontally placed on w^ooden pillars, about eighteen inches above the roof of the largeft houfes in that village; one of which pieces of timber was of fize fufficient to have made a lower maft for a third rate man of war. Thefe, together with the large images, were at that time fuppofed to denote the habitation of the chief, dr principal perfon of the tribe; and the opinion then, J-7Q4.J ROUND THE W&&LD. &£ then formed, has been repeatedly confirmed by obfervations made during this ^yage. One or more houfes in many of the de&rted villages#^£ - well as in moft of the inhabited ones we had vifited, were thus diftinguiflied. On the hog& of Maquinna were three of theff^ftigapnfe fpars ; the middle piece was the largeft, and meafured at the but-end nearly five feet in diameter ; this extended the whole length of the habitation, which was about an hundred ft$ftjl§ng. It was placed on pillars of wood ; that which fuppd|£§|| it wither the upper end of the^ipufe was about fifteen feet in circumference, and on it wfts carved one of their diftorted representations of a gigantic huma^figure. We remp$g^x^t$fc unacquainted with the intention of, or the purpofe that was to be anfwered by, thefe lingular roof trees ; but it is natural to fuppofe that-th^jb mult be directed jto fome important object, as the railing of fuch immenfe mafles of timbe4d2welve or fourteen feet from the ground, and plap^g them firmly on the pijjars by [jfgrjbi^feh they are fupported, muft, to a people fo totally devoid of mechanical powers, be a moft tedious andtabo- rio#s opetjation. Our curiofity bejjig<^^sfied, and our pocl$e1*S} compl&fjely emptied by the unr#j84fi|ing felicitations of the inhabitants of Tahfheis, of the flock of trinkets with which we had been provided, Ill 111' $4 A VOYAGE ©E DlSffQftERY [SEPT. we proceeded to the upper end of the arm, which afforded me an opportunity of explaining to fenr Alava the mariner, in which the numerous Channels &£# branches in the continent he had &&& delineated on our charts, terminated; as this eKtfed in ttef&nie way, by a low border of land in the front of a valley, through which fome fmail ftreams of water^fere difcharged ; but the &fa&$4i{JkoPes were infinitely lefs high than we had been %@euftomJK$ to obferve ; where having ftrolled a little about in the fkirts of the woods, we returned to our encatripment. Here we found Maquinna with fevfikl of our Tahfheian friends, who were verj^fiftiifei^^hat we fhould return and partake in the evening of an entertainment fiMilar to that we Had received in the morning ; but as we had appointed to be at home on Sunday morning, and had promifed a vifit to our &\$^G!&UDpan4kfr'$ik his principal refidence, called Mooe&feee, which was at a considerable dillance from Tahffeeis, it was not in our power to comply with the civil folicitati^rjgLof Maquinna and his fratfe#nity. We were honored at dinner with the company of Maquinna, moft of his family, and many of the other chiefs ; who, with the moft unequivocal affuisl&ces of their friendfhip, and with expreffions of the great pleafure they had derived from? ipl m 1704.] ROUNDTW& WORLD. 8& from our vifit, bad us farewell after dinner, and w¥- departed. As Mooetchee is fituated near the upper part of the next branch to the eaftward of Tahlheis channel, our route was directed back by the way we had come; and having reached in the evening the dividing point of thefe two arms of the fea, which is fituated about N. 0 E. fix or feven miles from Friendly cove, we pitched our tents for the night, in order to have the day before us for vBking Clewpaneloo, whofe habitation was about feven or eight miles from us ; towards which place, affeer breaferaft, on Saturday morning the 27th, we proceeded ; and as our vifit was not intended to be a very long one, the Spatfirn launch was left in a pleafant fituation, in order to pitch the encampment, and provide a dinner againft our return ; by which means our journey to the fhip the next day would be materially fhortfened. Our progrefs was not very rapid, as both wind, and the ftream which I believe in general runs down, were adverfe to our purftrrlt ,i$fi$eh waff1 through a region fo Wild and inhof- pitable in its appearance, as occafioned Sen1" Alava frequently to exprefs his aftonifliment, that it could ever have been an object of con tention feen our re »ective fo'vereigns. The fhores either conflituted impenetrable forefts, produced from the fifluies of a rugged rocky G 3 country, 11 86 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [sEFT. country, or were formed by flupendous barren precipices, rifing perpendicularly from the water to an immenfe height; fo that, excepting the ice and cataracts to which we had been accuftomed in many other inftances, Senr Alava was enabled from this fhort excurfion to form a very complete idea of the general character of thofe countries to the northward of this ftation, which had fo long occupied our time and labour. It was nearly three in the afternoon before we reached the village of Mooetchee, which con- fifted of a few houfes huddled together in a cove, with astittle regularity in the difpofal of them as was apparent in the conduct of its inhabitants, who crowded about us, and produced us much inconvenience, although with the moft inoffen- five and peaceable defign. Our friend Clewpa- neloo, though their chief, feemed not to poflefs fufficient influence to reftrain this behaviour, even within his own habitation, to which we were conducted by a very narrow pafiage between the houfes; the filth of which, and the combination of fo many offenfive exhalations, rendered it highly necefiary to our feelings, that as much difpatch as, poffible fhould be ufed in the diftribution of our prefents, which, when effected, would leave us perfectly at liberty to depart, without giving the leaft offence to our hoft or to any of his friends. On this occafion, ceremonies $f-Q4.] ' ROUND THE S^RLD. ~&7 ceremonies fimilar to thofe practifed at Tah^jjs were here obferved ; but. the want of order and decorum, independently of the difference in point of numbers between Tahfheis and Mooetchee, fuperiority of Maquimias authority,. «-L d with that of the neighbouring -evinced when com chiels; amongft whom Clewp^neloo was reputed to be one of the firft in wealth and power; and I certainly noticed as many of their large fquare boxes, in which they generally keep their valuables, in his habitation, as I had done in almoft all the other houfes collectively taken, but what they contained we did not entirely learn; yet, if teeodit were to be given to our landlord, they were all well appropriated, being, according to his account, filled with the fkins of the fea ott$$>~ .bear, deer, martin, and other animals of the •country, or with copper, irom cloth, and other European commodities. Our part being performed, and our ftore of pirefents exhaufted, we returiEfeed to our boats, accompanied, by Clevjpaneloo, who made us in reT turn jpijefents fimilar to thofe we had received from Maquiima; to which he added one infinitely more valuable than all the reft. This was a very fine buck, iuft killed; which being depo- fited in our boat, we took leave of Mooetchee^ amidft reiterated; acclamations oi " Wacofh, Wa-< e<ifli"iafyh repeated in treaties of the moftfrisnfljjfr tO'jr.'M G 4 nature #8 A VOYAGS OF DISCOVERY [SEPT. nature to prolong our flay; but as the day was now far advanced, no time was loft in making the belt of our way towards the ftation where the Spanifh launch had been left; this we reached in the evening, and found every thing comfortably prepared for our reception. As we bent our way homewards the next Tnorning, we flopped at an anchoring place called by the natives Mowenna, in great repute with the traders on this coaft, and particularly fo with the Americans. It is fituated on the weftern fide of the found, between four and five miles to the northward of Friendly cove, over which it poffbfles (though further from the fea) feveral advantages in point of fecurity and accommoda tion. The in its neighbourhood continues to be low to a greater diftance than about Friendly cove, and feems to be compofed of lefs rocky materials. The extent of this harbour is but fmall, but being well protected againft all winds, and its diftance from the ocean preventing its being much affected by the fwell, feveral veflels might ride here in perfect fafety ; and as it has a fair navigable channel out of it in a foutherly direction, veffels can fail out of this harbour whenever the land wind prevails to pufh them clear #f the found, with infinitely more eafe than from Friendly cove; out of which, they are firft obliged to warp a confidkrahle diftance, 1794-] ROUND THE WORLD. 8Q ■ tance, and to anchor not only in an inconvenient depth of water, but on an uneven rocky bottom; in addition to which, in the event of the wind fuddenly letting in ftrong from the fea, their fituation becomes by no means pleafant. The departure from Friendly cove, although not dif- -ficult in the fummer feafon, yet (as I have been given to underftand) is fubject in the winter to great, and indeed dangerous, inconvenience, from the heavy fea which rolls in ftormy weather into the found; efpecially during the S. E. gales* againft which, from its vicinity to the ocean, it is not fufficiently protected. As a military eftab- lifhment however, it is greatly to be preferred to Mowenna, as nothing can. pafs or repafs into the found unobferved at Friendly cove. About noon we arrived on board. Nothing o of any moment had occurred during our ab- fence ; the weather, which had been favorable to our excurfion, had been fo like wife to the federal employments of re-equipment, though we Had yet much remaining to perform. On Monday afternoon the 29th, arrived a very fmall- fhip called the Jenny, belonging toBriftol; tober, 1792, then rigged as a three-mailed fchoo- ner, and commanded by Mr. Baker, who had proceeded in her to England, with the cargo of furs he had then collected. She was now commanded ^o!P .« i hi :I 9O A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [OCTOBER, manded by a Mr. John Adamfon, who had returned with her from England, and had in the courfe of the preceding fummer in the neighbourly o c hood of Queen Charlotte's ifiands, collected upwards of two thoufand fea otter fkins, with which he was bound to the Chinefe market, and from Canton was to be employed as packet in the fer- vice of the Eaft India Company. He brought us the agreeable intelligence of having met Mr. Brown in the Jackal on the coaft, in the latitude of 54°, for whofe fafety we had entertained fome apprehenfion; for when we left Mr. Brown in port Althorp, it was his intention to proceed to the fouth ward through the inland navigation, and as the inhabitants of thofe fhores had acted a very'fufpicious part towards Mr. Whidbey, we were fearful left Mr. Brown's fmall force might not have been equal to his protection. |p The ferenity of the weather continued to favor our operations with little interruption. The wind blew for a few hours on the afternoon of Tuefday the 30th, from the S. E, attended with rain; but the N. W. wind again prevailed, and the weather became fair and p!eafant the next morning, Wednefday the ill of October. On the day following, Thurfday the 2nd, 1 was honored with the company of the Governor, Senrs Fidalgo, Saavadra, and moft of the Spanifh officers to dine on board the Difcovery. The very 1794-] ROUND THE WORLD. Q\ very exhaufted ftate of my llores, and flock of articles neceffary on fuch occafions, had precluded my receiving this pleafure fo frequently as I could have wifhed. I was very agreeably furprized by receiving a TOeflagefrom the governor on Saturday the 4th, in the afternoon, purporting that the- expected Spanifh packet from St. Bias was in the offing; thefe howTever were but fhort-lived hopes, for we no fooner 'had recourfe to our glaffes, than we became of opinion that the veflel in queftion was the Jackal. But as the wind at this time blew ftrong from the S. E. attended with dark, rainy, hazy weather, and as flie could not reach the port before dark, fhe flood to fea again; during^he night the S. E. gale increafed with inceffant raba and a very heavy fwell rolled into the found?:qghs next day, Sunday the 5th, the weather .was racae moderate, and in the evening the Jafekal arrives^ It was now that I received the.information of Mr. Brown's having paffed through the fhallow paffage mentioned in Mr. Whidbey's laft furvey in the boats, which appertaining immediately to the region then under confideration, I thought it moft properly introduced in the narrative of that expedition. Since our feparation with the Jackal,- Mr. Brown had collected upwards of a thoufand prime fea otter fkins, and feveral of inferior qji&lity. Moft of thefe had been procured g*l A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [OCTOBER, cured from thofe people, whofe conduct had put on fuch a fufpicious appearance in the opinion of Mr. Whidbey and his party, in his way from Crofs found : they had behaved very properly to Mr. Brown, whofe readinefs to enter into a traffic with them might probably operate in gaining their good opinion; for it had been evident, on many occafions, that our difinclination to a commercial intercourfe had excited the difpleafure of feveral tribes we had met with; this opinion was confirmed, by their ufual formalities on firft vifiting the veflels, which generally concluded with a defire to open a negociation for the dif- pofal of their merchandize. As the month of October advanced, we knew perfectly well, both from our former and prefent experience, that the fummer feafonof this country was fait drawing to a conclufion, and as moft of our material bufinefs with the fhore was now nearly finifhed, I took the advantage of Monday, being a fair day, to receive on board the obfer- vatory inftruments and tents. Our fuel and water was yet, however, to complete, which would unavoidably detain us three or four days longer, fo that waiting the flipulated time, after which the Spanifh packet was not to be expected, could now be of little moment, when compared to the importance her arrival might pofiibly be of5 in expediting our return to England, l79&-~] ROUND THE WORLD. g3 land. This, however did not happen, nor did any circumftance worthy of notice take place during this anxious interval. At midnight on the lOth we put to fea, in company with the Chatham. The Princiffa, Captain Fidalgo, with Governor Alava on board, was to follow us the next day. Monterrey was appointed as the next rendezvous, where thefe officers entertained little doubt of our meeting a reception, and every re- fpect fuitable to our fituation and wifhes. In this opinion I was induced to concur, from a cor^n verfation that had lately paffed between Senr Alava and myfelf*, when I became acquainted that the rep refutation I had made to Senr Quadra of. the treatment we had received on our former vifit to New Albion, had in confequence of his deceafe been tranfmitted to the viceroy at Mexico, whofe very humane and liberal intentions towards us, had no doubt, been materially mif- underftood by Senr Arrillago. Having bad farewell to Nootka, and made fuch remarks on our ordinary tranfactions there as appeared to me deferring attention, I fball now proceed to ftate the refult of our labours at the obfervatory, and fhew from what authority I deduced the longitude of the various ftations in our late furvey, which in many inftances difers materially from the longitude affigned to them by Captain Cook. I have already Hated my reafons n ^PSi[ 94 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [oC'fcMBER, reafons for fubfcribing to our own calculations in preference to thofe made by Captain Cook ; and mult again repeat, that I have prefumed fo to do, under the conviction of our having had the means of being accurate, more fully in our power than fell to the lot of that renowned and illuftri- ous navigator. On September Oth, in Nootka found the chronometers fhew the following longitudes; viz. Arnold's No. 14, 232° 32/ 50"; Arnold's No. 170, 232° 32' 53", The true longitude being 232° 31' 30", it appeared that Arnold's No. 14, and Kendall's, were each of them 1° o' 40;/, and Arnold's No. 17O, 44; 25" to the weftward of the true longitude. On the Oth 'ctober at noon, Arnold's No. 1 7O was found by the mean of twenty-nine days equal altitudes, to be fall of mean time at Green wich 10h 4Q/ fc&# And to be gaining on mean time per day at the rate of, ^ 41 5 7 Arnold's No. 14, fall of mean time on the fame day, 4 5 7 10 50 And gaining on mean time per day at the rate of, - 23 4 Kendall's, fall of mean time on ditto, - - - 9 30 52 50 And gaining on mean time e: e. per day, - .- 28 30 1704.] ROUND THE WORLD. §5 By obfervations taken on fhore with the arti* ficial horizon, between the Oth of September and llth of October, 1794, the chronometers were found to be gaining on mean time, viz. Arnold's No. 170, 41" 57l!l'; Arnold's No. 14, 23" 0;" ; and Kendall's, 28" 2Q1" per day; by which it appeared, that when opportunities did not offer of obtaining equal altitudes for afcertaining the rates of the chronometers, common altitudes if taken with care, would anfvver the fame purpofe; this is exemplified by the above obfervations, as the difference of the rate between two of the chronometers was only one fourth, and that of the other, viz. Arnold's No. 17O, rather more than half a fecond, which is accounted for by the very unequal rate in general of that chronometer. The latitude, longitude, variation, and inclination of the magnetic needle, were found to be the fame as on our firft vifit to this place in the year 1792. CHAPTER 96 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [ocfOBER, CHAPTER II. Depart from Nootka Sound—Violent Storm—Ar+ rive at Monterrey—'Receive on board the Defer ten from the Chatham and Dadalus—Excurfion into •the Country—Examine a very remarkable Moun± tain—Aftronomieal and Nmctical Obfervations* \ LIGHT breeze from the land favored our ***•^ progrefs out of Nootka found, and by daylight on Friday the 17th, we were about three leagues from the land, when the wind fuddenrf died away, and was fuceeeded by a calm with thick hazy weather continuing the whole of the day, and giving the veflels an appearance of being ftationary ; the depth of water continued to be the fame from noon until midnight, 7 5.fathoms, muddy bottom. At this time the haze was fuceeeded by a very thick fog, without the leaft breeze of wind; and although by the depth in- creafing we imagined that we were proceeding from the coaft, yet our motion was fo flow, that by fix in the evening of Saturday the 18th, we were flill in foundings at the depth of 100 fathoms, muddy bottom, and by the lead when on the ground, the veflel feemed to lie as if at anchor. This l794«] ROUND THE WORLD. Qj 3!feis obfcurity in the atmofphere had prevented our feeing the Chatham fince the preceding evening, but the ferenity of the weather, and the apparent flationary fituation of the Difcovery, made me conclude that flie could not be far off. Our powder being much:exhaufted, the fog fignal had not been made; but in order t<!> afcertain the fact, a gun was now fired, and to our great aftonifhmefjt it wa&not anfwered. The fog and calm ftill continued, and the depth of water gradually increafed, at eight o'clock we had 105 f&thotsos, with fandy bottom. The fog nowdifc perfed, and the calm was fuceeded by a light breeze from the E. N. E.; another gun was now fired, and a falfc fire burnt as a fignal to our confort, but neither was anfwered. After repeating thefe fignals in thefame manner, at three o'clock on Sunday morning the 19th to no effect, we made all fail, fleering to the S. S. E, At day-light the high land over Nootka and Clayoquot, was JEill in fight, bearing by compafs from N. 0 W. to E. N. E.; our diftance from the coaft was 10 or 12 leagues. The foundings •we had gained at midnight at the depth of 135 fethoms, proved to be at the diftance of about feven leagues from point Breakers, and fome- thing more from the general line of the coaft to the eaftward of that point. This I confidsred to tberthe edge of a bank ofibundings that appeared ■•• Vol. VI, H to is Q8 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [OCTOBER, to lie along the coaft, which commenced a-breaft of cape Lookout, and terminated a little to the northward of Nootka. Near the entrance of De Fuca's ftraits it feemed to ftretch further into the ocean, as at the diftance of eight leagues from thofe fhores we had only 58 fathoms water, with muddy bottom. In looking round for the Chatham a veffel was difcovered a-ftern, for which we iiataedi- ately fhortened fail, but foon finding it to be the Spanifh fhip Princiffa, we again directed our courfe as before with all fail fpread to a pleafant eafterly breeze and fair weather; with this however we were not long indulged, for in the even* ing the wind veered to the S. S. E., and by Monday the 20th in the afternoon, increafed to fo ftrong a gale as to oblige us to clofe-reef our topfails. The wind fixed in the fouth-eaftern quarter, and became variable, with fomethpfes clear, and at others cloudy weather : this gale did not reduce us below our topfails, although we plied not only againft it, but againft a very heavy fouth-wefterly fwell to fo little purpofe, that by noon on Friday the 24th we had by our reckoning (for we were unable to gain any ob- fervation) only reached the latitude of 47° 12', longitude 232° 12'. In the evening the wind veered to the S. S. W., with which we made a tolerably good progrefs to the fouth-ealjward :- *W ^^W^: "until 1 7Q4.] ROUND THE WORLD. ££ unfil Sunday morning the 20th, when it becaj$g& light and variable, with alternate calms, and a very heavy fwell from the W. S. W. This uncomfortable weather was fucceeded by a frefh breeze from the N. E., which as ufual veered to the S. E. on Monday morning, and in the afternoon increafed to a gale fo violent, as to make it neceflary that we fhould ftrike the topgallant-mafts, and bring to, under the florm ftayfails; this gale was attended with an extremely heavy rain until midnight, when the ftorm fuddenly moderated, and the wind veer* ing to the S. W. we flood to the S.E. under our courfes and clofe-reefed topfails. The obferved latitude on Tuefday the 28th was 44° 14;, longitude by account 233° 27'; in the afternoon all our canvafs was again fpread, but by Wednefday morning the 2Qth the wind had refumed its fouth-eaftern direction, with hard fqualls and heavy rain, which again reduced us to the forefail and ftorm ftayfails. Since our departure from Nootka we had con- flantly been incommoded by a very heavy weft- erly and fouth-weft fwell, which at this time was greatly increafed, notwithftanding the fea, raifed by the violence of the wind from the fouth- eaft; thefe together caufed a very confufed agitation of the ocean, and although the fhip was made as fnug as poifible by the top-gallant malls H 2 being ill ffiii Ell 111 llii. » 30b A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [NOV, being (truck, and by every thing, that conveniently could be taken from aloft, yet fhe was extremely uncomfortable, and fhipped great quantities of water. About noon the gale moderated, and on the wind returning to the S. W., we again made fail to the fouth-eaftward. The afternoon Was tolerably fair; vaft flocks of wild geefe and ducks were obferved, flying to the fouthward, wrlich indicated that in a more northern climate the winter had fet in with mucfe-feverity. The wind, although variable between S. E. and S. W. was moderate, with frequent calms, and the weather, comparatively fpeaking with that we had fo recently experienced, might be considered as tolerably fair, notwithftanding which, we made little progrefs until Monday morning the 3d of November, when the wfhd feemed fixed in the north-weft quarter, with very pleafant weather. To this favorable gale we fpread all 6ur fails, fleering for cape Mendocino; the fouth- ern promontory of which, at noon, bore by com- pafs S. 51 E., and with the coaft to the north of it, in fight to the N. E., was about 9 or 10 leagues diftant. The obferved latitude 40° 42', longitude according to our former calculations of the fituation of cape Mendocino, 235° 30', the variation 14° eaftwardly. At this time the longitude by the chronometers agreeably to the Nootka rate, was by Kill* dalfs. 1704.] ROUND THE WORLD. JQi dall's, 235° 27'; Arnold's No. 14, 235° 22'; and No. 170, 235° 55', As we drew in with the fhores of the northern part of the cape, having fince noon fleered S. E. by compafs about three leagues, we fudde^hr came into difcoloured water, with a very irregular fea ; but foundings could not be gaine<J with the hand line, nor at the rate we were then going, could bottom have been reached at a greater depth than from 7 to 1Q fathoms. As I intended before we proceeded to Monterrey to vifit the bay of Sir Francis Drake, and from thence in our boats to acquire a better knowledge than we had hitherto gained of port Bodega, our courfe after palling this promontory was directed along the coaft to the fouth-eaft for that purpofe. In the evening about fun-fet a very Angular* appearance was obf^jped over the interior moun* tains, immediately behind the high land of this lofty projecting promontory. An immenfe body of very denfe clouds enveloped the fummits of thofe mountains, riling in a confufed agitated ftate like volumes of fleam from a boiling cauldron of great magnitude ; thefe expanded to the northward, and obfcured all that part of the horizon, whilft to the fouthward, it was perfectly- clear and unclouded. From our own experience, as well as from the information we had derived H 3 from 102 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [NOV, from the Spaniards, we had long been led to con- fider cape Mendocino as fituated on the divi- fionarj^f ine between the moderate and boifterous climates of this coaft. For this reafon, however unfcientific it may appear, we could not avoid entertaining an idea, that from the immenfe accumulation of exhalations, which the flupendous mountains in this immediate neighbourhood arreft, arofe thofe violent fouth-eaft ftorms, with which, further to the northward, we {o frequentv ly contended, and by which, the coaft of New Albion to the fouthward of this ftation, is certainly but feldom, and never in fo violent a degree affected. This extraordinary appearance inclined us to believe that fome turbulent weather was not far remote, but from what quarter we could not guefs, as the fleady favorable north- weft gale, and the appearance of clear and fettled weather, iff the direction we were fleering, did not give us reafon to apprehend any inconvenience frpm the wind fhifting to the fouth-eaft- ward; and its blowing from the oppofite point had always, been confidered as the harbinger of moderate and pleafant weather. This general rule wa$ on Tuefday morning the 4th partly confirmed, and partly contradicted, as the vapours we had obferved collecting on the preceding evening, were now found to have been deftined |o difcharge their fury from a quarter we had leaft 1794-J ROUND THE WORLD. 103 leaft expected. During the night we had made fuch progrefs along the coaft, that by^our in the morning it became neceflary to haul to the wind, in order that we might not overfhoot our intended port before day-light. At this time the wind at N. N. W. attended with a moft tremendous fea from the fame quarto*, had increafed to fuch a degree of violence, as allowed us to haul off the fhore under our forefeil and ftorm ftayfails only*f£but the forefail, though a very good one, not being able to refill the violence of the ftorm, was about fun-rife on Wed- nefdaytfthe 5th, blown nearly to pieces; this was immediately replaced with the belt we had, the topgallant-malls were;fb[uck, and the fhip made as fnug as poflible; but unable to feud with fafety before the ftorm, we lay to, with the fhip's head to the weftward, under the ftorm ftayfails, it being impoffible to fhow more can- vafs, and of courfe too hazardous to fleer for that part of the coaft I wifhed to make, or to attempt running under our bare poles into a port, of which we had fo little knowledge as that of the bay of Sir Francis Drake; to keep the fea, was therefore our only prudent alternative, During this ftorm I felt a high degree of fatis* faction, that we had not made a more fpeedy pafiage from Nootka to Monterrey, as from the direction in which it had blown, I confidered, H 4 that 104 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY fffOVi that had we been arrived in that port, we fhould have been expofed to the whole of its fury, and the violence of iKe fea that had attended it. As Mbnterrey was now lying S. 50 E. of us, I could not fuppofe from the diftance of that port, that the gale had not reached fo far, for excepting the ftorms we experienced at and off New Zealand, $&&was certainly the moft violent of any we had met w£th during this voyage ; the fhip huivever was by no means fo uncomfortable as we had fi#induh£r on many other occafions. Thecwaves, although extremely high, were long and regular, the fky was hard and clear,rand intirely free from clouds. About the horizon and a few degrees above it; was feen a bright glaring haze ; and as this at intervals became more perceptible, the yifolence of the wind was conftantly obferved to be increafed. In this fituation we remained until the ftorm moderated, though it flill blew extremely hard: 3^crinow wore and flood for the land under the forefail and ftorm ftayfeifa, in the hope, that by the time we ftag&ld arrive near t&d fhore, now at the diftance of 45 leagues, the violence of the ftorm would in a great meafure have abated. It was not however before ten at night that it had fufficiently moderated to allow of ourrifetting the fciafe-reefed topfails ; at miAi^it we had the topgallant fails. rfet for about an hour, but the wind I7Q4.] ROUND THE WpRLD. 105 wind foon again increafed, and feeing the land at no great diftance about two o'clock iin the morning of Tuefday the Oth, we hauled off fhore, and plied under an eafy fail to wait the return of day, when finding ourfelves about three or four leagues from point Anno Nuevo, point Pinos in fight bearing by compafs S. E..§ E. and having a moderate breeze with fine pleafant weather, we fleered for Monterrey, where about two in the aftefnoon we anchored, and moored nearly in our formersfituation. Here we found the Chatham, fhe having ar- dfcv$d in the evening of the 2d. By Mr. Puget I was informed, that whilft we were becalmed and ftationary off Noofkfc, the Chatham on the ssteting ofet&e 17th of October was favored with a light breeze from the eaftward, which gra- dually jbacreafed; -n£th this Mr. Puget fleered to the fojBth-eaft, concluding we were doing the fame, and he was not undeceived until noon of the 18th, when the fog with them had fuffi- .ciently difpejfed, to fliew that the Difcovery was not within their vifible horizon. Mr. Puget was jftjually at a lofs with ourfelves, to account for the feparafton that had then taken place ; but as he confidered that we had preceded the Chatham, and fhe having at that time a pleafant breeze from the eaftward, he thought it moft advifeable to make the beft of his way to the y$ fouthward, *m 10$ A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [NOV. fouthward, and on the IQth in the morning whilft he continued to be within fight of Nootka, the Chatham had increafed her diftance near 40 leagues from the fhore. This circumftance, in confequence of the fucceeding winds, afforded the Chatham a fuperior advantage in getting to the fouthward, and which in all probability was confiderably augmented, by her having flood further from the coaft to the fouth-weftward, than we had done during the prevalence of the fouth-eafterly winds. On reference to the journals it appeared Mr. Puget had been enabled fo to do, by the wind having been much further to the fo^fthward with the Chatham than with the Difcovery; by which means on the wind's . Shifting to the S. W. as is moft frequently the cafe after the fouth-eafterly gales, our confort made much better Hants along the coaft to the fouthward, than we were able to do, becaufe we were fo much nearer to it. The Chatham had to contend with nearly the like boifterous weather we had experienced until fhe had paffed cape Mendocino on the 30th of the preceding month; when, at the diftance of 40 leagues from the cape the weather was pleafant, with wefterly and north- weft winds. The greateft diftance fhe had on this paffage been from the coaft, was Hated by Mr. Puget at Q3 leagues from cape Difap- pomtment, and from thence, fouthward to cape Mendocino I794-] ROUND THE WORLD. 107 Mendocino from 0o to 70 leagues; the greateft diftance^we had been from the coaft did not exceed 7 8 leagues off Deftruction ifland, but to the fouthward of cape Lookout we were not more than from 10 to 40 leagues from the land. The north-weft fferm we had ftyjlately contended with, a||iht#which Miad confidered this anchorage as dangeroufly expofed, Mr. Puget informed me had been here felt, at the fame time; but that the gale had been prif&ipally from the weftward ; and although it certaflpfy blew ftrong, yet it neither prevented the ufual communication wrfjfc the fhore, nor would have caufed any apprehenfion for the fecurity of vef- fels riding in the bay, if tolerably well provided with anchors and cables. Indeed the Chatham rode it out, with cables that had been long in ufe, and were in the laft flage of being fervice- able. This was by no means an unpleafant fact to afcertain, as it tended to prove, that although the weather may be extremely boifterouls* out at fea, and in the offing, yet this bay may be ap^ proached with the greateft facility, and will afford extremely good fhelter againft thofe winds, to which, apparently, it is moft expofed. Our profeffional inquiries being mutually fatfik fied, I had the pleafure to underftand from Mr, Puget, that he had met the moft cordial reception, from our former friencj Sen/ Arguello, the lieutenant 108 A Y0T3AGE OF DISCOVERY gNOV. lieutenant of the Prefidio, who then, as on our :feft vifit to this place, in the abfence of the governor of the province, officiated i&that capacity. From this gentleman we were likely to meet very different treatment to that which we had received from Senr Arrillago, whofe reftric- tive arrangements on our laft vifit to Monterrey, had obliged us to feek that hofpitality: and protection from the untutored inhabitants of the Sandwich ifiands, which we defpaired of obtaining in any of the ports under his jurifdiction. Senr Arrillago having been ordered to fome inferior eftablilhment, had refighed his authority at this place, and had departed about two months previoufly to our arrival, and a lieutenant in the {Sganifh army, Don Die.go de Borica, had been appointed fome time fince, to the government of this province, and was now daily expected at Monterrey. As foon as the fliip was fecured, an officer was fent to the Prefidio with the ufual ceremonious compliments, and with an apology for our not having faluted. On landing I was received by Senr Arguello, to whofe kind and benevolent offices we had before been greatly indebted, with marks of the greateft friendfhip and refpect. He exprefled the fatisfaction he fhould receive by having it now in his power to fupply us with the various neceffary refrefhments. the country afforded; 179^0 ROUND THE WORLD, 10$ afforded: and being without the leaft reftraint, he fhould endeavour to adminifter to our arriufe- ment and recreation. Whatever means he pof- feffed that were likely in any way to contribute to the happinefs or comfort of the prefent time, or to our future welfare, he was now impower- ed, by the orders that had been tranfmitted to this gaffcWfment from the viceroy of New Spain, feduloufly to afford, and prompted by the intereft he felt in our accommodation, he fhould with great pleafure carry thofe orders into effect. The people who, on our firft vifit to this Prefidio, had deferred from the Daedalus and Chatham, we found here, with directions for their being delivered up to me ; but as the governor of the province was fo foon expected, I deferred taking any fleps in this bufinefs until he fhould arrive ; nor did I erect our tents or obfer- ^yatory on lhore for the fame reafon, as I confidered it would be more refpectful to fubmit thefe matters to the approbation of Governor Borica himfelf than to Senr Arguello, from whom I only folicited permiffion to recruit our wood and water, and to obtain fome neceflary refrefhments. On Friday morning the 7th I received from Senr Arguello the only letter that had arrived at this place for me ; this letter was from the Conde Hevilla Gigedo, the late viceroy of New Spain, Ill 110 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [NOV. in reply to one I had written to his excellency on the 22d of May, 17Q3. In the moft polite and friendly terms the count informed me of Mr. Broughton's fafe arrival at Madrid, and expreffed the higheft approbation of the conduct of Senr Fidalgo, whofe fervices I had reprefented to him we had been greatly indebted to, on heaving the Chatham down at Nootka. Thofe very obliging offers he had before made, in wifhing to contribute to our health and welfare, by whatever means of affiftance this country could beftow, were in this letter repeated. It was dated on the 20th of October, 17Q3, about the time when we firft felt the influence of Senr Arrillago's dif- inclination towards our little fquadron. It was addrefled to me at Monterrey, with directions there to remain for my reception, until it fhould be underftood I had taken my leave of thefe regions, and in the event of my fo doing, without repairing to this place again, the letter was then to be tranfmitted to me in England. From thefe circumftances it w7ould appear, that the correspondence I had been thus honored with, was not intirely of that complimentary nature that Senr Arrillago had thought proper to confider it; and that the viceroy did expecl that I fhould make, at leafl, a fecond vifit to Monterrey, was evidently proved by the deferters having been fent hither, inftead of being forwarded to Nootka, as he had formerly 1794>] ROUND THE WORLD. HI formerly intended to do, but which determination, Senr Arguello informed me, he had been induced to alter, under the perfuafion of this being the moft likely place of our meeting with them. Not having received official intelligence at this port from England, and there being here no dif- patches waiting the arrival of Senr Alava, through which channel I might poflibly have obtained fome fort of information, by which my futute proceedings might, in fome degree, have been regulated, I could not help feeling very great dif- appointment, anxiety, and concern. I was not, however, totally deftitute of hope, that fome letters might have arrived at St. Diego. To afeer- tain this fact, notwithftanding that it was from hence to St. Diego more than four hundred Eng- lifh miles, Senr Arguello very obligingly ordered an extraordinary courier to be ready the next day, whofe return from St. Diego might be expected in ten or twelve days, and before the expiration of that time, I had no idea of quitting this ftation. Under the circumftances of the mortifying difappointment I now {elt, I was unable to form any plan for our future operations, excepting that which I had before meditated, of remaining here a fufficient time to recruit the health and ftrength of our little community. For, notwithftanding that we were not materially affected 3 12 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [NOV. fected with indifpofition, yet the health of moft of us demanded care and attention. The fatiguing fervice in which we had now been fo long employed, and the very few frefh meals we had been enabled to obtain fince the middle of the preceding month of March, mull be fufficient to convince the judgment, without the appear* ance of actual difeafe, that three weeks or a month Would be well dedicated in availing ourfelves of the refrelhments and recreation, in which we had now fo favourable an opportunity to indulge. Frelh beef, which was extremely good, was daily and unlimitedly ferved to the crew of each veffel ; but vegetables were a fcarce commodity, owing to the drynefs of the feafon, which gave the: country an appearance of being parched up ; and the few articles which had been produced on the fmall portion of land allotted here to the purpofe of garden ground were nearly exhaufted. We, however, were not apprehenfive of wanting fufficient variety to cover our tables, as in the immediate neighbourhood of the bay there were an immenfe number of wildgeefe, ducks, plovers, curlews, and other wild fowl; to which, by littie excurfions into the country, our fportfmen added an abundance of very fine quails and fome hares, which afforded us excellent repafts in addition to their amufement. It was {om&thmg Angular thai none of thefe fpecies of wild fowl, had 17Q4.] round the world. 113 had been found in any degree fo numerous on either of our former vifits to Monterrey. The weather was fair and pleafant, with a moderate breeze from the fea, which in the evening: o brought in the PrincilTa. We had confidered this veffel to have been to the northward of cape Mendocino, whilftwe contended with the north- weft ftorm to the fouth of it, and an idea had a¥lfen> from the appearance of the evening that preceded the gale, that the PrincilTa muft, in that fituation, have experienced much blowing weather from the fouth-eaftward; but on inquiry this was not found to be altogether the cafe ; fhe was, however, to the north of the promontory in queftion at that time, and her pro- grefs, like ours, had been greatly retarded by contrary winds ; but on the ill of November, in the latitude of 45°30;, fhe having generally kept about 30 leagues from the coaft; thefe adverfe winds were fucceeded by a pleafant gale from the north weft, which continued during the remainder of the paflage;£Lh This fact, though not proving cape Mendocino to be fo Angularly fituated as we had fuppofed it to be, with refpeel to moderate or boifterous weather, yet feiives to fliew that it has an influence on the winds that prevail during the winter feafen, as the fouth-eafterly ftorms are fcarcely ever known to the fouthward of cape Mendo- Vol. VI. I cino; flnS' 2)4 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [NOV. cino ; where, whilfl the north-weft gale reduced us to our ftorm ftayfails for twenty-four hours, the Princiffa to the north of it, felt nothing of its fury; but, on the contrary, had only a moderate north-weft gals, to which the whole of her canvafs was fpread. We had the pleafure to meet our friends in the Princiffa very well, though much difappointed, like ourfelves, in not receiving any official communications from Mexico; but as the courier was in readinefs to depart the next morning, Sen1 Alava embraced this opportunity to make the neceffary inquiries at St. Diego. In the night the wind blew ftrong from the northward ; and on the return of the day it con- fiderably increafed from the north-well. Notwithftanding the veflels rode without the Icaft inconvenience or apparent danger, yet, as our cables had been a long time on board, and had endured great trials, the topgallant malls were got down, the yards and top-malls ftruck, and the veflels made perfectly fnug; by noon, however, the wind moderated, and we had a return of fair and pleafant weather; all hands were now employed in different fervices, amongft which, recruiting our flock of fuel: and water,:was no inconfiderable labour ; no difficulty was experienced in procuring the former, but the drynefs of the feafion had rendered the latter very fcarce* ..-The 1/9^-] ROUND THE WORLD. 115 The wells that we had dug, on our firft vifit to Monterrey, though not perfectly dry, afforded too fmall a quantity to anfwer our demand, and we had no means of obtaining a fufliciency of water nearer than up a valley about half a mile to the eaftward of the Prefidio, and full that diftance from the fea-fide, where a fluggifh ftream oofed through the bed of a water-courfe, compofed of a loofe fandy foil; and here, by finking feveral cafks, temporary wells were formed, which afforded only a fcanty fupply, though the water was extremely good. This mode of procuring it was very tedious, and the diftance which the cafks, when filled, had to be rolled, through a loofe fandy gully, to the boats, was very great, and proved to be a very laborious tafk, yet the water was infinitely preferable to any that could have been collected from the ftagnated brackilh pools, in the vicinity of the Prefidio. On Sunday part of the fhip's company were indulged with a run on fhore, and the day following, Monday the 10th, we were bufily employed in facilitating, as much as poffible,the procuring of our wTater, by the belt arrangement in our power, notwithftanding which we could not prevent its bein£ »rv 1a.br )us bufinefs. The weather continued to be remarkably pleafant, and on Tuefday evening, the 11th, Scnr Don Diego Borica arrived at the Prefidio, I 2 where J 10 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [NOV. where, the next morning, accompanied by Mr. Puget and moft of the officers of both veflels, I waited upon him, to congratulate him on his fafe arrival, and to acquaint him with my reafons for vifiting the countries under his jurifdiction ; thefe attentions, I had the pleafure to find were perfectly fatisfactory, and were received in a manner that was highly compatible with the rcfpective. flations that each of us had the honour to fill. The indulgence I had folicited, and which had been granted by Senr Arguello, was now very politely extended by the governor, with further permiffion to erect our tents and obfervatory on fhore, under the direction of our officers, and protection of our own guard, to which he very obligingly added the affurance of doing every thing in his power that could in any way contribute to make our flay as pleafant and agreeable as their limited focietyand the lonelinefs of the country would afford. After this introductory difcourfe, we under - ftood from Senr Borica, that accompanied by his wife and daughter, a young lady about eleven years of age, and a fuitable number of attendants, he had come from Mexico to this place on horfeback ; as no other mode of conveyance was to be procured. They were provided with a fmall camp equipage, which was occafionally pitched, either as a retreat from the heat of the fun, 1794-] ROUND THE WORLD. 117 fun, or for reft during the night. Upwards of eight months had been employed in performing this journey, through a country very thinly inhabited, and which afforded but little comfortable accommodation for travellers. In the evening an exprefs arrived from Mexi-.. co, which brought difpatches from the viceroy of New Spain to the governor, together with the long expected inllructions to Senr Alava, refpect- o it ?■■ r " ing the celfion of Nootka to the crown of Great Britain, but nothing addreffed to me accompanied thefe credentials; and, from a converfation with Sen* Borica, I was not flattered with the leaft probability of receiving any intelligence from St. Diego, becaufe it was not likely, had any difpatches for me arrived there, that he fhould have remained ignorant of the circum- fiance ; and as the deftination of Senr Alava was well known to the officers commanding the fouthern polls of this province, letters for either of us would moft likely, immediately on their arrival, have been transmitted hither. The embarraffment I had been long under was now very materially increafed, and I wasgreatly at a lofs as to what meafures were beft to be pur- . fi?ed. From this dilemma, however, I was very unexpectedly relieved the next day, Wednefday the 12th, by Senr Alava very obligingly confiding to me that part of his inllructions which I 3 ftatecL Ill Wit' US A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [nOV, ftated, that no further altercation would take place with refpect to the precife meaning of the firft article of the convention of the 20th of October, 1790, as the documents tranfmitted by the late Senr Quadra and myfelf, had enabled our refpective courts to adjuft that matter in an amicable way, and nearly on the terms which I had fo repeatedly offered to Senr Quadra in September 1792. In addition to which the Spaniih minifter's letter fet forth, that this bufinefs was not to be carried into execution by me, as a frefh commilfion had been iffued for this purpofe by the Court of London.* The fame was announced to governor Borica by the new viceroy of Mexico, the Marquis de Branciforte, with inllructions to receive the perfon acting under this commiflion into their Prefidios. Having maturely confidered the feveral parts of this intelligence, I concluded that from the length of our voyage, and the various accidents to which the fervice in which we were employed would neceffarily render us liable, Government did not expect wx fhould remain longer in thefe feas, than the furvey of the American coaft might require; and in truth we were not now in a fit condition to protract our flay in thefe regions. * This however was not the fact, as the freih inllructions were addrelTed in the firft inftance to me. The 1794-] ROUND TlgB; WORLD. 1LQ The very exhaufted ftate of <par flores and provifions not only demanded fuch fupplies as were not eafily within our reach, but as the Dif- ;covery had been frequently aground, it was hi^fo- probable that her bottom might Hand in need of fome.srjery material repair, of which we had remained intirely ignorant, not having been fo Jbrtiunate as to meet with a proper fituation for the purpofe of her undergoing this neceffary examination. One of the great objects of our voyage, the furvey of the coaft of North Weft America, being now accomplished, and relying on the authenticity of the intelligence I had derived from Senr Alava, I did not long hefitate, but determined on making the bell of my way towards England, by the way of cape Horn, agreeably to my inllructions ; and as I had no intention of viiiting any part of the American coaft to the northward of the 44th degree of fouth latitude, I purpofed that our courfe from hence fhould be directed towards that latitude without flopping, unlels we fhould be fo fortunate as to fall in with the Gallapagos ifiands, whofe undefined fituation I much wifhed correctly to afcertain; and of courfe it would ■V t be fome time before we reached our next refting place. On this account it became highly expedient that we fhould fail from hence with as great a quantity 14 or 120 A VOYAGE OF'SlSUO^ERY [_N0V- of water as we might be enabled to procure, for the reception of which the coopers were direfted to repair, and put into order every calk on board capable of holding water ; in mariy cafes this was attended with great trouble, from the length of time they had been in ufie, and the hard fer- vice that many of them had endured. . Although the very great diftance, and the badfe* nefs of the road we had to pafs in getting the water down to the fea-fide, made the obtaining of this indilpenfable article a very tedious and fatiguing bufinefs, yet as we were in the mean, time benefitting from the air, the exercife of the fhore, and the excellent refrelhments of the country, I could not confider our detention here as a lofs of time, becaufe I was allured that it would be attended with the ineftimable advantage of fecuring tons all, that ftate of health which the remainder of our voyage we had yet to perform homewards, would neceffarily require, Some doubts having arifen in my mind, as to the fafe arrival in England of the copies (which I had forwarded thither), of our furvey of the American coaft to the northward, from Fitz- hugh's found to cape Decifion, and fouthward from this port to the 30th degree of north latitude, I deemed it expedient that a duplicate of the former papers, together with a copy of our ' furvey during the preceding flimmer, as alfo that .17'94-J ROUND THE WORLD. 121 of .the Sandwich ifiands, mould from hence be tranfmitted to the Admiralty ; that in the event of any mifchance having befallen the others, or •any unfortunate accident happening hereafter to .us, our labours mi&ht not be intirely loft to our country. The like information, in conformity to my original promife to my much lamented .friend the late Senr Quadra, had been folicited by Sen1* Alava, for the ufe and information of the Spanifh court, and with which of courfe I complied. The preparation of thefe documents would neceffarily occupy for#e time, but I had little doubt of their being fmifhed by the time wre fhould in other refpects be ready to depart. The deferterte from the C n an id Da lus had, at my requeft, been delivered up to me, at lead fuch of them as were the fubjects of Great Britain. An accountof espences, amounts jng to three hundred and twenty-five dollars and an half, was exhibited againft them ; but as I did not confider myfelf authorized to difcharge this debt, (though of its having been incurred by the deferters. I could entertain no doubt) of which I acquainted Governor Borica, by letter, on Sunday morning the 3 Oth, and at the fame time added, that I fhould reprefent the bufmels fully to the Board of Admiralty, and that I had no doubt that the ftricteft juftice would be done. With this the governor feemed to be completely fatisfied. 122 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [NGV. fatisfied, and in his letter to this effect, after ex- preffing the greateft approbation, he, in virtue of the harmony and good underftanding that continued to exift between us, folicited my good offices in behalf of the deferters before mentioned. The weather, fince the 8th, had been delight* fully pleafant; in the day time the wind blew a gentle gale from the fea, and during the night a calm, or gentle breeze, prevailed from the land, fo that the precaution we had taken of ftriking our yards and topmafts, fince the moment of our having done fo, ceafed to be neceflfary, This agreeable weather caufed the water in the bay to be fo very tranquil, that landing was eafiiy effected • on any of its fhores, and rendered our intercourfe with the country extremely pleafant. The fame caufe operated to invite the excur- fions of feveral parties into the country on foot and on horfeback. Thefe were rendered further agreeable and pleafant, by the friendly and attentive behaviour of our Spanifh friends, of which I was feldom able to avail myfelf, not only from the various matters of bufinefs in which I was deeply engaged, but from the very debilitated flate of my health, under which I had feve-rdy laboured during; the eight preceding months; I was, however, on Wednefday the 1 Qth able to join in a party to the valley through which the Monterrey river flows, and was there gratified with W.Al&xxmder del. from a Sketch taken on the Spot by J.Sykt I Mem,iunable Mountain „,■„,■//«• river </'Monterrey' ZonddL Publtfted Mav lfyaS. bv Ji. Kdmmis New JBondStreet J.Edwards Fu/lJLt/J & O. Robinson, ThUrnbster Ua * si Z=±===^^^^^:=:Z^ W==—z=^E=S 1.. =====:. __J^=E===SS ' =pkf_ — Z3 %--__ J _SI~Z ^ J | 5 : ■ , ... , ., —a j ~~=r== 1 —- - -—111 :===== ^^J^^^^^^fcv ^=r ^^ ^,j|pl§§£§fe v W.- Absconder cU 4 RemaA 179' | ROUND THE WORLD. 123 witl 1 the fight of the moft extraordinary moun- tain I ha dever beheld. On one fide it pr efe nted the appe arance of a fumptuous edifice fallen into decay ; the columns which looked as if they had been raifed with much labour and induftry, were of great magnitude, feemed to be of an elegant form, and to be compofed of the fame cream- coloured ftone, of which I have before made mention. Between thefe magnificent columns were deep excavations, refembling different paf- fages into the interior parts of the fuppofed building, whofe roof being the fummit of the mountain appeared to be wholly fupported by thefe columns rifing perpendicularly with the moft minute mathematical exadnefs, The whole had a moll beautiful appearance of human ingenuity and labour ; but fince it is not poffible, from the rude and very humble race of beings that are found to be the native inhabitants of this country, to fuppofe they could have been capable of railing fuch a ftructure, its being the production of nature, cannot be queftioned, and it may not be prepofterous to infer, that it has been from fimilar phenomena that man has received that architectural knowledge, by which he has been enabled to raife thofe maffy fabricks, which have flood for ages in all civilized countries. In this excurfion I had an opportunity of feeing what before I had been frequently given to underftand; 124 A^ VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [NOV* underftand ; that the foil improved in richnefs and fertility, as we advanced from the ocean into the interior country. The fituation we had now reached was an ex- tenfive valley between two ranges of lofty mountains, whofe more elevated parts wore a fteril and dreary afpect, whilft the fides and the intervening t>ofom feemed to be compofed of a luxuriant foil. On the former fome pine trees were produced of different forts,, though of no great fize,. and the latter generally fpeaking was a natural pafture, but the long continuance of the dry weather had robbed it of its verdure, and had rendered it not very interefting to the eye ; yet the healthy growth of the oak, both of the Englifh and holly-leaved kind, the maple, poplar, willow, and ftone pine, diftributed over its furface as well in clumps as in fingle trees, with a number of different flirubs, plainly fhe wed the fuperior excellence of the foil and fubllratum in thefe fituations, to that which was found bordering on the fea fhore. The fame uninterrupted ferenity of the weather continued, and on Friday evening the courier from St. Diego returned, but he brought no kind of intelligence whatever ; and the 24th being the day fixed for the return of the exprefs to Mexico, I embraced that opportunity for ^anjmitting to the Admiralty a brief account of our iii i fill f794.| ROUND THE WORLD. 125 our tranfactions during the preceding fummer, and a copy of our furveys made in that and the former year, which had been prepared for that purpofe. Thefe documents, agreeably to the advice of the governor and our other Spanifh friends, I took the liberty of addrefiing to the marquis of Branciforte, viceroy of New Spain, and requefted that he would do me the favor of forwarding them to England by the moft early and fafe conveyance. All expectation of Mr. Broughton's return and of his refuming the command of the Chatham being now at an end, I appointed Lieutenant Puget to that office, Mr. Baker, and Mr. Swaine I removed to be the firft and fecond lieutenants ot the JDiicovery ; Mr. 1 nomas Man by 1 ap- to the vacant lieutenantcy, and Mr. fi be the mailer of the Chatham in pointed to ti Humphreys, his room. Our bufmefs with the fhore now began to draw nigh to a conclufion ; the yards, topmafts, and topgallant-malls were got up, and the rigging put ro o i oo o x into condition for fea fervice, but a fufficient flock of water was however not yet obtained; whiffl this was completing, I difpatched Lieutenant Swaine on Thurfday morning the 27 th with three boats over to the million ot Sta Cruz, in order to procure a fupply of garden fluff, as the continuation of the dry weather, here, had tade m i i 126 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [nOVa made every fpecies of efculent vegetables extremely fcarce. Mr. Swaine returned on Saturday evening the 2Qth, having been tolerably fuccefsful> fo that with our live flock and the other refrefhments that Monterrey had afforded^ "we were likely to take our leave of it, with as good a ftore for the prefervation of health, and to be as well provided for the long and diftant paf- fage we had to perform, as from any port in the known world. The two following days were employed in receiving on board the tents, obfer- vatory, inftruments, and all other matters from the fhore, and in getting the fhip in readinefs to proceed. The variety of objects that had occupied my time whilft at Monterrey, had, as at Nootka, precluded my attending to little more of our aftro-* nomical bufinefs, than that of afcertaining the late and error of the chronometers, according to the meridian of thefe places as fixed by our for* rner obfervations : yet I had confidered thefe to be of fufficient authority to anfwer all the pur* pofes Ox correcting our furvey of the coaft in the refpective vicinity of thofe ftations. By comparative obfervations made by Mr. Whidbey with Mr. Ramfden's circular inftrument, and thofe made with the artificial horizon by myfelf> I was in hopes of adducing further reafons in fup- port of the means I had adopted for fixing of the longitude^ 179^.] ROUND THE WORLD. 127 longitude, and for correcting our general furvey of this coaft during the preceding fummer, between Trinity ifiands and cape Decifion ; and I had the fatisfaction to find the fame correfpond- ing accuracy at Monterrey as had appeared at Nootka. On the 13 th of November in the bay of Monterrey the chronometers fhewed the following longitudes: Arnold's No. 14, 238° 0< 50" Ditto, 17O, 238 33 5 Kendall's 237 59 15 The true longitude bei rig 238° 25' -45", Arnold's No. 14 appeared to be 24l 55", Kendall's, 2& 30/y to the weftward, and Arnold's No. 176, 71 20" to the eaftward of the true longitude. And by altitudes taken on fhore with the artificial horizon on the 28th of November, Arnold's No. 14 was found to be fall of mean time at Greenwich, at noon on that day, - - - 5l And to be gaining on mean time per day at the rate of - Arnold's No. 176* was fall of mean time at Greenwich, - 1 ■ And gaining on mean time per day at the rate of 24 1 21 30 Hi 1 128 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Kendall's fait of mean time at Greenwich, And gaining on mean time* per day at the rate of - 6 By equal altitudes taken ori fhore with the circular inftru- meht between the 1 3th and 2gth of November, the following are the rates at which the chronometers were found tc * per day ; (viz.) Arnold's No. 14, Qh 58' fe 30 be gaining Ditto Kendall's, 1/6, 23 55 50 Pf 30 52 The very inconfiderable difference between the rates thus found, and thofe afcertained by the artificial horizon, mult be received as a proof of the correctnefs of that method, which fhould be reforted to, whenever better authority cannot be had. The above true longitude, latitude, variation,- and inclination of the marine dipping needle,' were found to correfpond with our obfervations made on our former vifit to this place in December, 1792. CHAP, I794.J ROUND THE WORLD. 329 CHAPTER III. Leave Monterrey—Some Account of the three Marias Ifiands—Proceed to the Southward—Aflronomi- cal and nautical Obfervations. HHE method that had been purfued to pre- ferve as great a regularity as was poffible in the rate of the chronometers, had fo far fuc- ceeded with No. 14, that its rate as afcertained at Nootka and at Monterrey, differed only 54//r; this made me very anxious to fall in with fome place whofe longitude had been fettled by pro- feffed aftronomers, by which means the accuracy of our calculations would be confirmed, or the error they might have been liable to, would by fuch comparifon become apparent; leaving it at the difcretion of geographers, or of thofe who might hereafter follow us, to adopt or reject fuch correction as their own judgment might direct. For this purpofe, no ftation appeared to me to be fo eligible as cape St. Lucas, at the fouth extremity of the peninfula of California, (on a moderate computation not more than eight or ten days fail from Monterrey,) as at St. Jofeph's, in the immediate neighbourhood of that promontory, Vol. VI. K the ^^ 130 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [DEC. the tranfit of Venus had been obferved, and other aftronomical obfervations had been made by pro- feffors in that fcience, whence its pofitive fituation had been correctly determined. But as our obfervations during the preceding autumn for fixing the longitude of the coaft of New Albion, fouthward from hence to the 3 oth degree of north latitude, had been all reduced to port St. Diego as a central ftation, and the rate of the chronometers for correcting that furvey had been there afcertained ; I deemed it expedient to fleer firft for the ifland of Guadaloupe, for the purpofe of examining whether the fituation we had before affigned to that ifland from the refult of thofe obfervations, would agree with the longitude in which we had now placed Monterrey. With a frefh breeze from the N. E. attended with fair and pleafant weather, on Tuefday the 2d of December we quitted Monterrey, and "bad adieu to governor Alava, and the rell of our Spanifh friends, from whofe great kindnefs and hof- pitality we had not only derived much relaxation and happinefs, but by their attention to our future wants, we had every profpect of a continuation of that health, which now feemed to be eftab- lifhed> by the refrefhments we had there procured. From Monterrey bay our courfe was directed to the S. E. but in the evening the gale died away, 1794-] ROUND THE WORLD. 131 away, and after about twelve hours calm, it was fucceeded by light variable adverfe winds, which continued until near noon on Thurfday the 4th, when it fixed in the weftern quarter, blowing a pleafant gentle breeze. The obferved latitude was 35° 29', longitude 238° I 6'. The coaft of New Albion was Hill in fight, bearing by com- pafs from N. E. to N. W. by N. This was the laft we faw of it; the wind between W. N. W. and N. N. W. gradually increafed to a pleafant gale, which by the evening of Monday the 8 th brought us in fight of the ifland of Guadaloupe; this we paffed in the night, and from the obfervations made on the preceding and following day, which exactly agreed with the fhips run by the log, I had the fatisfaction of finding its fituation exactly to correfpond with that which we had before affigned to it; hence it is fair to pre- fume, that the whole of this coaft which has fallen under our examination, has been laid down relatively correctly, however our longitude may be found to vary from other navigators or obfervers. Having afeertained this fact, and being unwilling to lofe any opportunity by which the advancement of geography might in the flighteft degree be furthered, I fleered over to the coaft of California, for the purpofe of fixin in our way towards cape St. Lucas, the pofition of fome of K2 the tS2 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [DEC. the molt projecting points between that promontory, and the part where we had quitted its fhores the foregoing autumn; but in fo doing I had-no indention of approaching fufficiently near to attempt a minute delineation of the coaft. At day-light in the morning of Tuefday the Qth we had fight of the ifland of Cerros, bearing by compafs from E. N. E>;lto N. E. about ten leagues diftant. This is reprefented in the Spanifh charts to be about ten leagues long, and to be lying before an extenfive bay, on the fhores of the peninfula. The fouth-weftern point of this bay is a very projecting promontory named Morro Hermofo : weft from thence is laid down a fmaller ifland called Natividad. To thefe as the day advanced we drew fomewhat nearer, but the land was Hill too far off to admit of our forming any correct judgment as to the productions of the country, or the fhape of its fhores. Thofe of the ifland of Cerros wore an uneven broken appearance, though on a nearer view they feemed to be all connected. The fouthern part, which is the higheft, is occupied by thebafe of a very remarkable and lofty peaked mountain, that defcends in a very peculiar rugged manner, and by projecting into the fea, forms the fouth-weft end of the ifland into a low craggy rocky point; this as we paffed at the diftance of five or fix leagues, feemed, like the other part of the ifland, to be defti- tute 1794-] ROUND THE WORLD. 133 tute of trees, and nearly fo of all other vegetable productions. Natividad appeared to be more moderately elevated, and at noon bore by compafs N. 70 E.; the fouth-eaft point of the ifland of Cerros, N. 46 E.; the peaked mountain, N. 37 E. ; its fouth-weft point, N. 2/ E.; its north- wefternmoft part in;light, N. 20 E.; and ifle de St. Benito, which is a fmall ifland, feemingly with fome rocks and iflets about it, N. 11 W. diftant eight or nine leagues. In this fituation the obferved latitude was 27° 5\'3 longitude by Arnold's No. 14, 244° 38.J', by Kendall's 244° 38i7 and by Arnold's No, 17O, 244° 54/. The variation, by the furveying compafs, was at this time 8° eaftwardly. The weather continued to be fair and pleafant, and, with a gentle breeze from the north-weft^ we proceeded along the fhore. In the afternoon we had fight of what we fuppofed was Morro Hermofo, which at that diftance appeared to be infular, and, like Natividad, feemed to be moderately elevated. Although we were too far diftant to attempt an accurate delineation of thefe fhores, yet we were enabled pretty clearly to af- certain the pofition of their moft prominent points, and, from the refult of our calculations, the ifland of Cerros appeared to form on its weftern fide a deep bay, between its north-weft and fouth-weft points, which are about five leagues K 3 apart* 134 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [DEC. apart, in a direction N. 20 E. and S. 20 W.; the peaked mountain being the part whofe fituation we were belt able to fix, is in latitude 28° 87, longitude 244° 58'. From this mountain the ifland St. Benito lies N. 05 W. at the diftance of twenty miles, and the ifland of Natividad S. 4 E. diftant fourteen miles. The latter appeared to be about four miles long, in a S. E. and N. W. direction, and, like the ifland of Cerros, prefented a barren and dreary afpect. Behind it was the point which we had taken for Morro Hermofo, in latitude 27° 52', longitude 245° 7', The channels round thefe ifiands, and between them and the main land, are, in the Spanifh charts, reprefented as clear and navigable; we were not, however, fiifficiently nigh to them to fatisfy ourfelves in this particular. During the night our courfe was directed more foutherly, which, although it kept us within fight of the land, yet by the morning of Wednefday the loth, it had increafed our diftance further from the coaft than I had reafon to expefl:, from the way in which it has been laid down. We were now at the diftance of 12 to 14 leagues, and whether the parts in fight were or were not immediately on the fea fhore, it was not poffible for us to determine, but the fhore was fufficiently marked to admit of our making the neceffary obfervations, as we failed along it, for the object I had in view* 3/94-J ROUND THE WORLD. I35 view. The northernmoft point in fight at noon being the fame land that had formed the northern extremity ever fince the morning,: bore bv compafs N. 3 W. diftant feventeen leagues, a particular high part, appearing to form the north point of a bay or opening on the coaft, N. 1 7 E. at the fame diftance ; and what appeared to form a very confpicuous point, from whence the coaft feemed to take a very eaft war dly turn, N. 25 E. diftant thirteen leagues. In this fituation the obferved latitude was 2(3° 48', longitude 245° 2fo\! \ and, if the above eftimations be correct, the latter point will be found to lie in latitude 27° 207, longitude 245° 49'. Several turtles were feen at this time on the furface of the fea, one of which was taken by our fmall boat. Towards fun-fet the weather became cloudy, the wind veered to the fouthward, and threatened us with a heavy rain, but by midnight the wind re^» fumed its north-weft direction, and the weather became fair and pleafant. Not being in fight of the coaft, on Thurfday morning the 1 1th, I fleered more to the eaftward, and by day-light on Friday the 12th we were within fight of a high round mountain, which we fuppofed was on the main land of the peninfula, bearing by compafs N. E. I E. The part of the ocean in which we had now arrived abounded with bonitos, albicores, and K 4 various H'l t|:e I'llii I 135 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [DEC. other fifhes of the tropical regions, with a great many turtles. Thefe feemed fo perfectly indifferent to any interruption that we occafioned them, either by palling near to, or even over them, that I was induced to fend the fmall boat to take fome of them up, and in about half an hour fhe returned loaded with thirteen very fine green ones, each weighing from feventy to two hundred pounds. They all proved to be extremely good eating. Some of them were fluck with the turtle peg, but moft of them were taken into the boat unhurt. The obferved latitude at noon was 25° ll7, longitude 247° 48*, and the variation of the compafs Q° eaftwardly. The above high round mountain at this time bore N. 30 E. diftant 25 leagues, and land fuppofed by us to be an'ifland, S. 35 E.; to the eaftward of which our courfe was directed until two in the afternoon, when our conjectures were difcovered to have been ill founded; for, inflead of this land proving to be an ifland, it formed the weft point of a fpacious open bay, the contiguous fhores to which were very low, and bounded by breakers, whilft the more interior country rofe in fmall detached hillocks, giving the whole from the deck the appearance of a group of ifiands, but from the mall-head it was feen to be all connected, for which reafon we hauled our wind, and paffed to the weftward of this land, which, in ^Mi 1794.] ROUND THE WORLD.' 137 in every point of view, even at a very little diftance, feemed to be infular, owing to the lownefs of the land to the eaftward of the elevated part that forms the point, and which, in a fouth-eaft and north-well direction, appeared to occupy an extent of about five miles.$It is higheft in the centre, from whence its north-weftern extremity fhoots out and defcends gradually to a low point of land, with an even furface, but in every other part the acclivity was fteep and irregular; and the furface, broken into deep chafrns, terminates at the water-fide in abrupt rocky cliffs. On its northern fide lies an iflet with fome rocks at a little diftance from the fhore, on which there was an appearance of fome verdure and fertility, but where its furface was rocky and broken it had a fteril and barren afpect. In the evening we paffed within about five miles of this point, which I fuppofed was the fouth point of the bay de la Magdalina, and which, according to our obfervations, is fituated in latitude 24° 53', longitude "tjHf* 50', from whence, in a fouth-eaft direction, at the diftance of about three or four leagues, is another elevated part of the coaft, which, like the former, at a little diftance, has the appearance of being infular. As the coaft, for fome extent to the fouth-eaftward of this ftation, is in the Spanifh charts reprefented as low, and dangerous to approach, we ftretched to the fouth-eaftward during the 138 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [DEC. the night, and on Saturday morning the 13th, there being no land in fight, we flood to the eaftward, and foon regained a diftant view of the coaft, which was high and mountainous. Being favored with a fine .gale from the north- well, and delightfully pleafant weather, we made great progrefs towards the land, for which we continued to fleer until' nine in the evening; when, being in 80 fathoms water, and conceiving the land to be not far off, we hauled to the wind and plied under an eafy fail, with foundings from 80 to QO fathoms, until five on Sunday morning the 14th, when we again flood towards the land, and to our great furprize, at day-light, found it to be eight leagues diftant, and bearing by compafs from N. 54 E. to S. 08 E. By ten in the forenoon we were within about three leagues of the fhore, at which time we bore away, and fleered for cape St. Lucas. The parts of the coaft to which we were now oppofite were in a great meafure compofed of fteep white - rocky cliffs, from whence the country role with a very broken and uneven furface to a ridge of ftupendous mountains, which were vifible at a erreat diftance into the ocean. The fhores jut out into fmall projecting points.that terminate in abrupt cliffs, and having lefs elevated land behind them, gave them at firft the appearance of being .detached ifiands along the coaft, but, on a nearer 179^.] ROUND THE WORLD. J3Q a nearer approach, this did not feern to be the cafe. The general face of the country was not very inviting, being deftitute of trees and other Vegetable productions. The obferved latitude at noon was 25° 12f longitude 250°, and the variation of the compafs 7° eaftwardly. At this time the northernmoft part of the exterior coaft of California in fight bore by compafs N. 15 E. the neareft fhore N. 03 E. diftant three leagues, and a point to the northward of, and intercepting our view of cape St. Lucas S. 3Q E. diftant fix leagues, beyond which the cape foon appeared, and was found to lie from that point S. 47 E. diftant two leagues. In the afternoon we paffed this point, or promontory, which gradually, though not very regularly, defcendsfrom the range of mountains before mentioned, and terminates at its fouth extremity in a hummock of low, or very moderately elevated land, that had the fame rocky fleril appearance as that we had J>een oppofite to in the morning. The weather had been very favorable to the object I had had in view in thus directing our courfe to the fouthward. According to our obfervations cape St. Lucas is fituated in latitude 22° 52' longitude 250° l& 18", The very fharp turn which the coaft takes from that ooint towards the gulph of California, enabled us in a verv iiil |1: ilfi-: 140 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERT [DEC. very precife manner to afcertain the moft projecting part of the cape, which according to the Spanifh charts, and the information I had procured from the Spaniards themfelves, is fituated under the fame meridian as their eftablifhment of St. Jofeph, and which agreeably to the Spanifh printed chart compiled by Miguel Coftanfo in 1770, is Hated to be in latitude 23° 3' 42", longitude 250° 17' 3o". On the confirmation of our calculations by this authority I derived much gratification, as I had now great reafon to pre- fome, that the pofition of the weftern coaft of America between cape St. Lucas in California, and cape Douglas in Cook's inlet, as heretofore ftated by me, would be found tolerably correct. The very trivial variation that had occurred in the rate of Arnold's No. 14 for the preceding two or three months, induced me to place my principal reliance upon it, and by which the longitude of cape St. Lucas differed from the above* only V 12". By Arnold's No. 82 on board the Chatham, the longitude of the cape was 250° Q'; Arnold's No. 1/0, gave 250° 37' ; and Kendall's, 250° 21' 30/;. From thefe feveral refults it fhould feem, that Arnold's No. 17O varied moft from the truth ; and as I have had occafion before to obferve, this deviation may poffibly have arifen by the motion it received on its being 1794-] ROUND THE WORLD. 141 being taken on fhore, for the purpofe of difeover- ing its rate of going. As the fituation of the Marias ifiands lying between cape St. Lucas and cape Corientes before the port of St. Bias, had been yarioufly defined by different perfons, and as thefe ifiands were nearly in our route, an opportunity was likely to be afforded me for determining their pofition; and on confidering the length of the pafiage we had yet to perform, I was induced to hope we might at thofe iflands be able to recruit our flock of water; for thefe reafons our courfe was directed towards the Marias, with a frefh gale from the northward, and delightful weather. The fea ftill abounded with fifli, and feveral turtle were feen ; but as our former fupply was not yet exhaufted, and as the gale was too favorably tempting to admit of a moment's delay, they remained unmolefted. According to Dampier, the iflands for which we were then fleering are fituated E. S. E. at the diftance of 40 leagues from cape St. Lucas ; according to the Spanilh chart 47 leagues ; and by the Spanifh MS. chart they are Hated to be Oo leagues from that promontory. This irreconcilable difference rendered it no eafy tafk to determine on which to rely; the difference in the Spanifh charts rendered the accuracy of each equally queftibnable, and our own experience had ife 111 A V0YAG-E OF DISCOVERY DEC had proved both of them to be very erroneous in feveral inftances. Under this uncertainty, about nine o'clock on Monday the 15th, at night, being then 42 leagues from cape St. Lucas, and in the direction in which the Marias were faid to lie, we plied under an eafy fail until th^ next morning, Tuefday the lOth, when we made all fail, fleering to the E. S. E. which courfe, by nine in the forenoon, brought us in fight of thofe iflands, bearing by compafs E. \ N,; in this direction we inftantly fleered, but as we were not fufnciently up with the land to gain anchorage before dark, the night was paffed in preferving our fiitiation with the land, and in the morning-of Wednef- day the 1 7th, wre fteered for the pafiage between the northernmoft and the middle, or Prince George's ifland, fo diftinguifhed by Dam pier. The moft northern and largeft ifland of this group, is about thirteen miles long, in a S. E. by E. and N. W. by W. direction, which is. alio nearly the line in which thefe iflands feemed to lie from each other. As we paffed along the northernmoft ifland it appeared to be but moderately elevated, notwithftanding that we had defcried it at the diftance of near 18 leagues; its highelt part is towards the fouth, from whence it gradually defcends and terminates in a long low point at its north-weft extremity, which according to our obfervations is fituated S. 08 E. and 179'*'] ROUND THE WORLD. 143 and at the diftance of 04 leagues from cape St. Lucas. A low detached iflet, and a remarkably fteep white cliffy rock, lie off this point of the ifland, whofe fhores are alfo compofed, but particularly fo on its fouth-weft fide, of fteep white rocky cliffs; the fame fort of fubftance feemed to be its principal component part, and although in fome places it was tolerably well covered with low flirubs, yet upon the whole it prefented but a dreary and unproductive feene. Its fouth-eaft- ern extremity, which likewife defcends gradually from the fummit of the ifland, terminates alfo in a low projecting point with fome rocks lying off from it. On either fide is a fmall bay; that on the eaftern fide is bounded by a beach, alternately compofed of rocks and fand, and as we gained foundings of 35 fathoms at fome diftance as we palled by it, little doubt was entertained of its affording good anchorage, provided the bottom fhould be good ; as it is protected againft the general prevailing winds. The furf however broke with fome violence on its fhores, and as it did not feem from the ficanty portion of its vegetable productions, and the apparent drynefs of the foil, to poflefs what we principally, and indeed only wanted, water; we proceeded towards that ftation which Woods Rogers defcribes to have occupied, and where about the fame feafon of the year, he procured a great fupply o{ excellent 144 A VOYAG-E OF DISCOVERY ^DEC* excellent water. This was on the north-eaft fide of Prince George's ifland. In our way thither we paffed between Prince George's and the north wefternmoft ifland, in a pafiage about fix miles wide, with foundings from 20 to 40 fathoms, fandy bottom, and fo far as we became acquainted with its navigation, it is free nfp$! danger or interruption. The fouth-weft fide of Prince George's ifland is bounded by detached rocks lying at a fmall diftance from its fhores ; thefe in general, but more fo on its northern and eaftern fide, defcend gradually from the center of the ifland (whofe fummit is nearly as high as that of the northernmoft ifland,) and terminate at the water-fide in a fine fandy beach. This was infinitely more verdant than the other ifland, as its vegetable productions extended from the more elevated parts to the wafh of the fea, and grew with fome luxuriance though we did not perceive any trees of great fize on the ifland, nor did it feem to afford any ftreams or runs of frefh water. Some gullies were {een as we paffed along, which in addition to the cheerful appearance of the country, flattered us with the hope, that on further examination they would be found to afford us the fupply of water wre needed. Having fhortly after noon, reached the fpot pointed out by former vifitors as moft likely to furnifh this ellential article, we anchored on a m$t$ clear ^M ROUND THE WORLD. 145 17Q4.] clear fandy bottom, in 10 fathoms water, about three quarters of a mile from the fhore, on the north-eaftern fide of Prince George's ifland; its eaft point bearing by compafs S. 10 E. about two miles and a half diftant; its north-eaft point, N. 08 W. diftant two miles ; the north point of the northernmoft ifland, N. 40 W. about fix leagues diftant; and the moft fouthern ifland, which is the fmalleft, from S. 2\ E. to S. 45 E. about four leagues diftant. Two boats were immediately difpatched with Mr. Whidbey and Mr. Manby in different directions in quefl of Water, which however, if found, •could not be got on board without fome difficulty, on account of the furf which broke on every part of the fhore, but not fo violently as to prevent the parties from landing. In the evening both returned; Mr. Whidbey had extended Mi excurfion to the north-weftward from Our anchorage, without finding any water, and Mr. Manby had been equally unfuccefsful to the %u%h-eaftward round the fouth point of the ifland. On its fouth-eaft fldfethe beds of many spacious water courfes were feen, which in the rainy feafon appeal^ to give vent to copious ftreams, as fome of them were twenty feet in width. In fome a moJfl&fefs was obferved, and Mr. Manby was of opinion, that by digging wells, water might have been procured, A fepply by Vol. VL L this ill 146 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [DEC* this means was however precarious, and as we could not devote any time to uncertainties, I determined to depart without further delay, and at eight o'clock we were again under fail. Our vifit to thefe iflands not having afforded us an opportunity of making a very accurate delineation of their fhores, or of acquiring fuch information as might render them objects wTor^ thy the particular attention of future vilitors to thefe feas, I have not fubjoined any fketch of them, and fliall content myfelf by noticing, that the anchorage we quitted, is fituated according to our obfervations made on the preceding day, and the day after we failed (not having obtained any obfervations on the day of our arrival and departure) in latitude 21° 28', longitude 25 3° 54;; and that in a direction N. 50 W. and S. 50 E.; thefe iflands occupy a fpace of about 14 leagues ; the length of the northernmoft has been already flated, its breadth is about nine miles; the next in fize and direction is Prince George's ifland, this is about eight leagues in circuit; and the third, or fouth-eafternmofl, is about nine miles round. In navigating near them we obferved no danger ; fome detached iflets and rocks are about the fhores, but all are fufficiently confpicuous to be avoided; and the regularity of the foundings, fo far as our examination extended, gave us reafon to believe, that fecure 179^-] ROUND THE WORLD. 147 fecure anchorage might be obtained againft the prevailing winds, at a commodious diftance from the fhore. From the gentlemen who had landed (being myfelf from the the ill ftate of my health unable to go on fhore) I became acquainted, that the foil of Prince George's ifland feemed to be principally of a fandy nature, on which the chief valuable production was lignum vita, befides which, was an almoft impenetrable thicket of fmall trees and bufhes of a thorny nature, together with the prickly pear, and fome plants of the orange and lemon tribe ; the whole growing as clofe to the water fide as the wafh of the furf Would permit. Some of the lignum vita which was cut clofe to the beach and brought on board, worked up full eight inches in diameter at heart; this wood was Very ponderous,, of a clofe black grain, and extremely hard. Before this time I did not recollect to have met with this fpecies of wood growing on any of the iflands in thefe feas, and it is not improbable, that in the more interior parts of this ifland the trees may be of a much larger fize. About the outfkirts of the woods, for excepting where in the rainy feafon the defcending waters had formed a path, the thicket was impenetrable ; many birds were feen, thofe of the larger kind were hawks of feveral forts, green parrots with yellow heads, paroquets, L 2 pigeon?, ft if 143 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [d EC. pigeons, doves, and a variety of fmall birds, many of which were of beautiful plumage. Pelicans, gulls, curlews, terns, and fandpipers were obferved, but no quadrupeds were feen, although in the fand on the bottom of fome of the water- courfes Mr, Manby noticed the footing of an animal, which he confidered to be about the fize of a fox; many turtle tracks were on the beach, and nearly a hundred of dead manatee, or fea- cows, were lodged at fome diftance beyond the prefent range of the furf. The carcaffes of thefe animals, from their then ftate of putrefaction, were confidered by Mr. Ma$l?y to have been fo left about ten or twelve days before, and as they all feemed to be nearly in the fame ftate of decay, the only conjecture that could be reafonably formed, was, that they had been {o depofited in a violent foutherjy ftorm. They were eagerly devoured by the vultures, hawks, and other birds of prey that had affembled about them in great numbers, and it appeared to be not improbable that the carnivorous animals of the Marias are frequently regaled with fuch fumptuous repafts, for, befides. the fea-cows that remained intire, the fkeletons of many hundreds of the fame or fimilar animals had been in like manner call on fhore, at more remote and different periods. A variety of filh common to the tropical regions were feen in great numbers about the_ fhores ; amongft i794,J ROUND THE WORLD. * 140 amongft thefe the fharks were very bold and daring, they followed the boats, and made repeated attempts to catch the oars, in which one of them at length fucceeded, but with the lofs of nve of its teeth, which were left in the blade of the oar. A few fnakes and guannas were alio feen, and fome of the latter were very good eat-' ing. No traces of human vifitors were perceived, though on fhore fome drift wood was found, with evident marks of its having been worked or hewn with European tools. This appeared to me to be the fubftance of the information we acquired by calling at thefe iflands, which are not more than lOo leagues from Acapulco, and in the immediate vicinity of St. Bias. In the Spanifli M. S. chart they are placed weft from that port, at the diftance of about 20 leagues, which appeared to correfponcl exactly with our obfervations, in refpect to the bearings from cape St. Lucas, and to differ only three leagues in the diftance from that promontory ; this was further proved (fo far as ellimated diftances could be relied upon) by the diftant view we had had of the continent in that direction at our laft place of anchorage ; notwithftanding which, thefe iflands do not fieem to have engaged or attracted the attention of the Spanifli government. As on leaving the Marias it was my intention L 3 to Ill 150 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [DEC* to make cape Corientes, in order to afcertain its latitude and longitude, our courfe was directed between the ifiands and the main land ; fleering well to the eaftward at firft, in order that we might avoid a fhoal faid to extend fome diftance from the fhores of the fouthernmoft of the Marias ; at midnight we purfued a more foutherly courfe, but the wind, though attended with fine pleafant weather, was fo moderate, that at daylight on Thurfday the 18th, the iflands we had left were Hill in fight, bearing by compafs the fouthernmoft from N. 82 W. to N. 72 W.; Prince George's ifland,fromN. 70W. toN. 04 W,; the eaft point of the northernmoft, N. 5 8 W.; and a diftant view of the continental fhore from N. E. by N. to E. by S. This was too remote to form any judgment refpecting the country, further than its appearing to have a very lofty and uneven furface, fwelling into various eminences of different forms and magnitude. The obferved latitude at noon was 21°, longitude 254° 27', and the variation of the compafs 7° 3Q/ eaftwardly. In this fituation the high land over cape Corientes bore by compafs S. 25 E., land appearing like a fmall ifland, lying at fome diftance from, the continent S. 00 E.; the 11 oft part of the mam land 11 N. N. E., and the fouthernmoft of the Marias flands N. 58 W., diftant nine leagues. Much to. 1/94-] ROUND THE WORLD. 151 to our furprize, in the afternoon we approached a fmall black rugged rock, or,- more properly fpeaking, a clofely connected duller of final! rocks, which though deferving of attention, from their fituation, and the {sitety of the navigation between cape Corientes, St. Bias, and the Marias, yet they are not inferted in either of the Spanifh charts, nor do they appear to have been noticed by any former vilitor with whofe obfervations I have become acquainted. The fpace they occupy does not appear to exceed the dimenfions of a large fhip's hull, nor are they much higher. They are at a great diftance from any land, and, fo far as wTe could perceive on palling by them at the diftance of about half a league, the water near them appeared to be deep in every direction. We could not gain foundings clofe round them with the hand-line, nor did this fmall rocky group feem to be fupported by any bed of rock or fhallow bank. The fhores of the main land, to the eaftward of them, at the diftance of about eight leagues, appeared to be broken, and about ten miles within them are two fmall ifiands. Thefe rocks, according to our obfervations, are fituated in latitude 20° 45', longitude 254° 27', lying from the land mentioned at noon as appearing like an inlet S. 7^ W. fix leagues diftant, and from the fouthernmoft of the Marias S. 30 E. at the diftance of 12 or 13 leagues, L 4 In - $-52 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [DEC In the evening the breeze that had been very moderate all day, frefhened, and towards midnight we paffed cape Corientes, at the diftance. of about five leagues; this time was rather unfavourable for the fixing of its pofition; but as it was Hill in fight at day-light the next morning, Friday the 19th, bearing by compafs N. 8 E., and having been conftantly within our view during the night, I fhould fuppofe that it's fituation as refulting from our obfervations will be liable to no very material error. Thefe placed cape Corientes in latitude 20° 22/, longitude 254° 40'; from whence if this, flatement be correct, the above rocky group will be, found to lie N. 20 W. at the diftance of nine leagues. The American coaft to the fouthward of cape Corientes not continuing to take a direction favorable to our route, we were no longer defirous of keeping near its fhores, and I therefore made the belt of our way towards the ifland of Cocos and the Galhpagos, with an intention of flopping at one or both of thofe places. At noon the obferved latitude was 19° 15', longitude 254Q 4 87; the coaft at this time was ftill in fight, bearing by compafs north, from N. 85 E. and its neareft part N. E. about ten leagues from- us. We were now accompanied by many of the tropical fillies, and oceanic birds, and notwithftanding that we had a frefh breeze from the north-weftward, the weather Hi. 1/94-] ROUND THE WORLD. 153 weather was very fultry and unpleafant. The thermometer within thefe two days had rifen from 70 to 81, and the heat that wre now experienced was attended with a degree of oppref- five inconvenience, that exceeded any thing of the fort I had ever before felt, under fimilar cir- cumftances of fuch an alteration in the height of the mercury. The unpleafantnefs of the at- mofphere on Saturday morning became greatly increafed by the north-wefterly wind dying away, and by its being fucceeded by calms of light va- * 1 1 " '"PL i. r 1 C CIA 1 riable airs. 1 ne atmolpnere was perfectly clear, ferene, and unincumbered either with fogs or clouds, which made it very difficult to account for the extraordinary change in the climate between our then ftation and the three Marias iflands, as the diftance did not exceed 70 leagues.' This may poffibly be acounted for by the projecting promontory of cape Corientes, and other parts of this mountainous country intercepting thofe cool refrefhing gales from the north th$t are fo grateful and acceptable to the human conftitution. That part of the globe we had now to pals over having been little frequented by perfons pof- feffing the means of making due obfervations on the vertical inclination of the magnetic needle, I purpofed to procure fome obfervations at different when the fhip was fufficiently Heady for 38° 17- 38 3 34 3 30 20 30 41 3 54 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [DECV for this purpofe. This day in latitude 18° 20'% longitude 255° 40', the marked end, north face eaft, fhewed | Ditto Ditto Weft, Ditto South face Eaft, Ditto Ditto Well, Mean vertical inclination of the north point of the marine dipping needle - The horizontal inclination or variation was about 00° eaftwardly. A continuation of very light winds made our progrels very flow, through an ocean on whofe furface great numbers of turtles, in every direction, were lying afleep, and we had only to lower down the boat, and without interrupting the pro- grefsof the fliip, make choice of as many as we required; though under our prefent circum- ilances we would readily have waved the acquisition of thefe luxuries for a little more wind, as with th$t which now prevailed, the fhip's motion through the water was fcarcely perceptible. We had again fight of the American coaft on ompafs . Jj CO Sunday morning the 2ill; it bore from N. 5 E. to eaft, to N. 72 E. ; but at fo remote a diftance that we loft every appearance of it by noon, when the obferved latitude was 1 7° 507, longitude 255° 52;. During the two pre- 179'i.] ROUND THE WORLD. 155 ceding days we had very light variable winds from the eaftward and S. E. with alternate calms, and very oppreffive fultry weather ; but by Thurfday the 25 th we had fome little alleviation, as the wind then blew a moderate Heady breeze from the north-weftward. Whilft the light winds continued we were greatly incommoded by a very heavy fwell from the fouth-eaftward, which made the fhip extremely uneafy; this had now in a great meafure fubfided; but the weather though perfectly clear was Hill very hot and fultry, the thermometer night and day varying from 81 to 83. Had it not been for our anxious folicitude to get forward, and the exceffive heat qf the weather, our fituation would have been by no means unpleafant ; the ocean was tranquil, and abounded with a great variety of fifh; its. furface as it were was covered with turtles, and the numerous fea fowls hovering over, and divine for their prey, prefented fuch an animated fcene, as the ocean, unaflifted by intervening land, or other objects, is feldom, I believe, found to exhibit. We were here at no lofs to provide a re- paft for this our fourth Chriftmas day fince we had quitted the civilized world; and with the addition of the frefh beef, mutton, and poultry we had brought from Monterrey, the officers tables prefented fuch an appearance of luxury as is 156 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [DEC is not frequently feen in fuch diftant regions of the ocean. In addition to our frefh provifions, and what the fea afforded, the people were ferved fuch an extra allowance of grog as was fufficient for the celebration of the day, and to call to their recollection their friends and favorites at home ; on which occafion, though perhaps the circum- ftance may appear too trivial here to be noticed, yet as the fentiment arofe fpontaneoufly from the gratitude of the crew, I am induced to mention it; the memory of Senr Quadra, and the health of Tamaahmaah were not forgotten. The fame light baffling winds continued to impede our progrefs, which was tardy and irk- fome beyond all defcription; in addition to which, fome of our water cafks were found to have leaked out; this, very contrary to my wifhes, obliged me to reftrain the allowance of water to three quarts a man per day. So very flowly did we proceed, that by Wednefday the 3ill at noon we had only reached the latitude of 13° 50', longitude 25€f 51 SO11 ; the latter was" deduced from 110 fets of lunar diftances, as follow, with the fun and aldebaran on different fides of the moon between the 2/th and 3 ill of December. Thofe taken on the'2 7th, and brought' forward bv Arnold's No. 14, gave the following 1 The T79- !•] ROUND THE W ORLD. 15? Ther n$?m of 6 lets D a§ Well of her, by Mr. Whidbey, 259° 38 50" 4 "ditto Mr. Baker, 259 32 45 € ditto Mr. Manby, 259 52 45 6 ditto Mr Orchard, 259 50 27 6 ditto, taken on 29th, by Mr. Whidbey, 259 45 40 6 ditto Mr. Baker, 259 37 35 6 ditto Mr. Manby, 259 55 22 6 ditto Mr. Orchard, 259 56 35 6 D ab aldebaran ealt of her, Mr. Whidbey, 259 52 2 6 'ditto Mr Baker, 260 14 17 4 ditto Mr Manby, 260 8 10 6 ditto Mr Orchard, 259 55 33 6 5a © well of her, taken 3 III Mr , Whidbey 259 46 50 6 ditto Mr . Baker, 259 41 47 6 ditto Mr IVfanby, 259 47 43 6 ditto Mr . Orchard, 259 47 2 A ]) ab aldebaran eail of her, Mr . Whidbey , 259 52 4 6 ditto Mr. Baker, 6 D ab aldebaran eaft of her, Mr. Manby, 6 ditto Mr. Orchard, 3 ditto Myfclf, 3 days' obfervations, in 28 lets, Mr. Whidbeyj ditto 2S Mr. Baker, ditto 28 Mr. Manby, ditto . 29 Mr. Orchard, 260 S 10 5 7 1 52 8 25 The mean of the whole, coli :n, being the refult of. 116 fets of lunar diftances, fhewed the longitude, at noon on the 3ill of December, 1794, to be At which time Arnold's No. 14mewe4 No. 176 Kendall's And by the dead reckoning - 259 48 55 259 55 51 259 54 19 259 51 45 260 6 30 260 53 36 260 46 45 260 158 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [dkC Hence, as I confidered the longitude deduced from the lunar obfervations to be correct, or nearly fo, it will appear evident that the chronometers, fince the commencement 6f the Very hot weather, had been gaining confrdefably lefs than the rate we were allowing as afcertained at Monterrey ; for which reafon a new rate was, from thefe and fubfequent obfervations, found and adopted for pointing out our longitude, by the chronometers, from this fixation fouthward to the ifland of Cocos. By this mode No. 14, at noon, on the 31 ft of December, appeared to be fafl: of mean time at Greenwich, - - 5h 31' 30" 45/// And to be gaining on mean CD o tim£ per day at the rate of, - " 20 No. 1 70, faft of mean time at Greenwich on the fame day, 11 51 5Q .45 And to be gaining on mean time per day at the rate of, Kendall's fall of mean time on the fame dayi - - 10 11 And to be gaining en mean time per day at the rate of, - 21 41 43 45 CHAP, J794.J HOUKD THE WORLD. 139 CHAPTER IV. Vifit the Ifland of Cocos—Some Defcription -of that Ifland—Aftronomtcal and nautical Obfervations there—Proceed to the Southward—Pafs between- Wenmaris.and Culpepper s Iflands—See the Gal* lipagos Iflands^ and afcertain their Situation. DURING our paffage thus far from Monterrey, it did not appear that we had been much afTecT:ed by currents, the log and the obfervations having in general correfponded very nearly, and the difference between the longitude, by the dead reckoning, and that whieh I confidered to be the true longitude, had not exceeded half a degree, the dead reckoning having been in general to the eaftward of the truth. The wind in the north-weftern quarter continued to blow a fteady breeze, and as we advanced to the fouth-eaftward it increafed in its force; the heat was lefs oppreflive, and the mercury in the thermometer fell to a general temperature of about 78 ; the atmofphere was commonly clear, and the fea, which was remarkably fmooth, abounded with immenfe numbers of flying fifli, dolphins, bonitos, albicores, and a iittrf' great 1'60 A VOYAOE OF DISCOVEftY [J A¥. great variety of fmaller fifh ; of turtles we eafily procured as many as we could difpenfe with. By noon on Monday the 5th we had reached the latitude of 9° 27', and the longitude, brought forward from the preceding lunar obfervations, with the new rates of the chronometers, was fliewn by Arnold's No. 14 to be 263° 36' 15", No. 176, 263° 34' 1 5", and by Kendall's 203° 40j; the dead reckoning at this time fhewed hence it became evident that wre aterially affected by a current fetting rard, as this deviation had been gra* flng fince the 3 lft of December, and obfervations for the latitude, the direction of this current feemed to be irregularly between the north, fometimes correfponding, and at others to the fouth of the obfervations. In this fituation the vertical inclination of the magnetic needle was as under : Marked end North face Eaft - 24° 50' 265° 33 were no \ to the w dually ir bv our d Ditto ditto Weft - 25 30 Ditto South face Eaft, 24 45 Ditto ditto Weft, - 24 . 30 Mean inclination of the marine dip- tune needle !4 54 The variation being about 7§ degrees eaftward ly. The two fucceeding davswe were fet to the fouthward, at the rate of about half a mile per hour, 1795-] ROUND THE WORLD. l6l hour, and on Wednefday the 7th the wind from the north-eaftward again became verv light, and I found it neceflfary to begin diftillinp; frelli water from the fea ; by this procefs, without any great additional expenditure of fuel, a fupnly of from twelve to eighteen gallons of frefli water was oro- cured in the courfe of each day; and although it could not be confidered of the firft quality, yet it was perfectly frefh, and applicable to all the pur- pofes of cooking. In this refpeei it was highly acceptable, as by the afliftance of the diftilled wTater, we were enabled to appropriate to greater advantage the abundant refrelhments which the fea ftill continued to afford, and which were fome compenfation for the very tedious and tardy pro- grefs that the faint baffling winds permitted us to make. Since Wednefday we had frequently noticed very ftrong riplings on the furface of the water, but felt fcarcely any effect from currents. The obferved latitude on Sunday the 11 th was 7° 4 7/, longitude, by Arnold's No. 14, 260027;; No. 176, 260° 20'; Kendall's, 2d0° 33y ; and by the dead reckoning 208° 32'; fo that admitting No. 14, as I conceived it to be, neareft the truth, the error in the reckoning, fince the 5th, had only increafed 19'. The variation of the compafs was now about S° eaftwardly. During the laft week the clouds, particularly in the northern quarter, Vol. VI. M had 341 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY t*4*. had fometimes hung about the horizon very dark and heavily, but they had now difperfed without any rain, excepting about noon on the preceding day, when we had a fmart fhower that lafted. nearly two hours, and was the firft ram that had fallen with us fince our arrival at Monterrey in the beginning of November laft. As wc thus gently advanced to the fouth-eaftward, the riplings on the furface of the water became more frequent, and were attended with a greater degree of agitation, making a rufijlmg. hiffing noife, like a tide in fhoal water ; and though we felt fomething of their influence, they feemed infinitely more to affect the Chatham in. her fteerage ; yet, from the refult of our obfervations, they did not appear to be the confequence of any current, which gave rife to an idea, that probably the fpace we were then paffing over was of very uneven bottom. To afcertain this fact foundings were tried, but no bottom was found in thefe riplings with 140 to 1/0 fathoms of line. During the night of Monday the 12th, and until noon the following day, we had a frefh breeze from the N. N. E,, which afterwards veered round to the eaftward: and: E S. E, nearly Wednefday noon we had reached.the.latitude of 5° 37', longitude 2t)8Q 31', approaching nearly to the parallel of the ifland of Cocos, and about two or 179 5-l ROUND THE WORLD. l63 or three degrees of longitude to the Weftward of its meridian, according to the different accounts of its fituation in the ocean ; and as we had no indication whatever of our having left it to the weftward of us, our courfe was directed eaft- wardly, as the moft probable means of finding the ifland. We were ftill attended by vaft numbers of filh, varying both in fize and fpecies; few birds were now about us, and the abundance of turtle^ was fo much decreafed, that, on Thurfday the 15 th, notwithftanding the day was for the moft part calm> our boat's crew caught only two. The weather ftill continued clear, and gave us {a good a view all around us, that had any land been within the limits of our horizon, it could Lo re efcaped our notice. Al not h to the fouth of the Oth degree of nj we again found ourfelves under the influence o£ the Current, that, during the 14th, had fetus is[r in a direction S. 47- E., and, during the kit twenty-four hours, at the fame rate, in a direction N. 62 E. A light breeze fpringing up foon afternoon from the north, we purfued our eaft- wardly courfe, intending to incline a little to the. fouthward. This however we were prevented, doing, from the current continuing to fet to the E. N. E. at the rate of a mile per hour; fo that at noon the following day, Friday the 1 Oth, our ob- TV/T o ferved I l64 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY JAN.] ferved latitude was 5°51/, and the longitude 2O90 327. The tranquil ftate of the wind and fea, which with fo little interruption had for fuch a length of time attended us, now feemed likely to undergo a very material change. A very heavy fwell rolled from the weftward, and the atmof- phere became loaded with denfe, heavy clouds, particularly between the S. E. and S. W. ; in this rection our view was limited to a very few miles. The wind now blowing a gentle breeze from the N. W. a more foutherly courfe was purfued, in the hope of regaining what we had loft by the current having driven us to the northward. Towards midnight, after about three hours" calm, the wind came from the fouthward, and obliged us to fteer again to the eaftward ; this I much regretted, as we had not, with all our efforts, yet been able to get fo far fouth, as the latitude afligned to the ifland we were in queft of, which according to Lord Anfon's voyage is ftated to be in 5° 20', and by the Buccaneers m 5° 15A. I could not help being appre- henfive, that a continuation of thefe adverfe winds and currents would oblige us to pafs to the northward of the ifland without feeing it; for, by our obfervations on Saturday the 1 7th, after making every allowance, inftead of our being in latitude 5° 22', which was fhewn.by the reckoning •}795-] ROUND THE WORLD. {Qj ing, the rcfults of our meridional and duble altitudes (which agreed extremely well together) proved our latitude to be 5° 40;, and that we were alfo feveral miles to the eaftward of our account, the longitude being 2/0° 377. The variation at this time was 8i° eaftwardly. Between this and the preceding noon, we had paffed over upwards of a degree of longitude, without being able to fee far to the fouth of the latitude of 5° 3o', owing to very thick hazy gloomy weather; hence it was very poflible, that we might have pafled to the northward of the ifland of Cocos. This was confidered by fome on board to have been nighly probable, from the circumftance of our being now attended by vaft numbers of the different fpecies of birds that are )und frequenting the fhores of the un- generall\ 10 inhabited tropical iflands ; but this did not amount to proof, as thofe birds»might have been attracted to the neighbourhood of our then fituation by the great numbers of bonitos, albicores, and other fillies, with which the fea at that time abounded: and as we were fuceefsful in taking ufe of, they as m; or them as we com a make .mple amends for the deficiency ol turtle, which did not appear to be an object of much regard, as I believe moft of us began to be tired of that food, which was only ufed to diverfify our other provili ■. lilt i l66 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jAN. The currents with which we had met, fhewed that little reliance was to be placed on the longitude, affigned to any land in this part of the ocean, from the teftimony of thofe who had fo long fince vifited thefe regions, but who had not been provided with the means we poflefTed for afcertaining the ftrength and direction of thefe 'itreams. For fome days paft we had been fet confider- ably to the eaftward, and as, from the feveral authorities I had confulted, it did not appear that we had yet reached the moft eaftern fituation affigned to the ifland in queftion, the prefump- tion was that it was ftill to the eaftward of our rack ; and although I fhould have been lortified to have been obliged to abandon an object that had fo much attracted my attention, yet, from the reduced ftate of our water in confequenee of this unexpectedly tedious pafTage, and the worn-out and defective ftate of our water-cafks, the reaching of the ifland of Cocos became a matter more of neceftity than choice ; as I was very unwilling to enter any port in the continent. There feemed, however, no profpect of effecting this, unlefs we fhould be able to fhape fuch a courfe as would counteract the ftrength of the adverfe rprth-eafterly current. For this purpofe, with the wind at S. S. W. we fteered to the S. E. and in the evening had a tolerably prele great *7§6-J ROUND THE WORLD. 167 •fe&bly diftirttt view a-head, but the fouth-weft to?izon was ftill obfcured in dark denfe clouds, aliii lft$e; the night was moftly calm, but in the following morning, Sunday the 18th, the weather was ferene and clear, attended with a gentle breeze from the N. VV, with which we fleered to the fouth and at noon were in latitude 5° 337? longitude' 271° 7'\ having been fet during the laft twenty-four hours \ 3' to the north, and 1l' to the eaft of our reckoning. The clear weather was hot of long continuance in the fouthern quarter, although the oppofite fide of the horizon retained its former appearance; for by fun-fet we could not fee a mile from the fhip in the eaftern, fouthern, or fouth-weftern jfjiigrters. The various kinds of birds became more numerous, and having at length reached the ftated parallel of the ifland, we plied during the night, which was attended by variable winds, fome rain, and dark gloomy weather. This continued until noon the next day, Monday the 19th, when the obferved latitude was 5° 14', longitude. 271° §' \ being 10' to the north, and 41 to the eaft of what the log fhe wed. The weather now admitted of an extenfive view all round, but no land was in fight; and as the number of birds Was confiderably leflened, fome additional reaforvs were offered in fupport of the former opinion, that we had left the ifland to the fouth-weftward M 4 of ill 16*8 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jAN, of us. Of this however I was by no means convinced, as in my feveral traverfes over the Pacific Ocean, I had feldom found tha: fuch indications amounted to a proof of the very near vicinity of land. With the wind between the fouth and S. W. d continued during the night to aitnou I h*A the fouth-eaftward, we were not able to keep our fouthing; for the obferved latitude at noon the following day, Tuefday the 20th, was 5° 16', the longitude 27 1° 52', which was 24' further north, and 10/ further eaft than was given by our reckoning. . % ,j-t*Sifi In the courfe of the laft three or four days we had, in different inftances, been deceived for a fliort timejboth by night and day, by very heavy dark clouds-which affurned the appearance of land. Shortly.after noon a fimilar refemblance was feen from the maft-head at a great diftance, bearing E. N. E. which was not given credit to as being Land, until aided by a gentle breeze and the current, we had approached nearer to it by three leagues, when it was decided beyond all queftion to be land. Concluding it to be the Jong-looked for ifland of Cocos, at the diftance of 14 or 10 leagues, the glad tidings were communicated by fignal to our little confort. All the turtles had now left us, but we had ftill many fillies and fea fowl attending us, though thefe were . 3 / Q5.] ROUND THE WORLD. l6*{) were not quite fo numerous as on the preceding; evening. The night was calm or accompanied with light variable winds, which continued with rain ands dark gloomy weather until noon the -next day, fo that no obfervations could be ob- •tained for afcertaining the fliip's fituation: we had however made fome progrefs/as the ifland now bore by compafs N. 73 E. to N. 81 E. not more than 0 or 7 leagues from us. In this we had been much aflifted by the current fetting us directly towards the land, the fouth-weft extremity of which appeared in this point of view, to rife abruptly from the fea in fteep rugged cliffs to a considerable height; and then in a moderate afcent to its moft elevated part; this was a hill of no very great fize; from whence it defcended with a more uniform declivity to its northern extremity, which appeared like a detached iflet. The wind, which had been variable in the evening, became very light, and-I was not without my apprehenfions that the current might force us paft the ifland, before we might have an opportunity of making choice of a fituation for anchoring. That no time might be loft, about two in the following morning, being then fuffi- ciently near the land for one of our boats to be in with the fhores by day-light, Mr. Whidbey was difpatched in the cutter to make the neceflary examination. During this and the three or four preceding I/O A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jAN. preceding nights the fea had prefented a very luminous appearance, but I was not able to afcertain with fatisfaction the ife After the boat had left the fhip, wc ufed our utmoft endeavours to preferve our ftation to the fouth-weft of the ifland, but to no effect; the current foon after day-light drove us beyond its weftern end, and although our head was to the fouth-weft, we were driven at a great rate paft its northern fide, within a few miles of its fhores. Thefe appeared to be indented into fmall bays, with rocks and iflets lying near them; but they by no means exhibited that inviting appearance which has been reported of them by Lionel Wafer* and others. The fhores were chiefly compofed of broken perpendicular cliffy precipices, beyond which the furface rofe unevenly to the fummit of the ifland; the whole compofing one rude connected thicket of fmall trees near the fhore, but on the more elevated and interior parts many ]arge fpreading trees were feen; fome cocoa nut trees were alfo obferved in the chafms of the rocky precipices, but they did not feem now to Aourifh in fuch abundance, as was moft likely the cafe when their fruit gave a name to the ifland. Being ~ intirely without wind, the current fat us faft to the north-eaftwTard from the land, * Vide Collection of Voyages to the Southern Hemifphere, in 2 vols. 8vo. publi&ed in 1788;" which 17Q5.J ROUND THE WORLD. 171 which at noon bore by compafs from S. 17 W" to S. 35 W. diftant feven or eight miles. The weather at this time afforded us a good opportunity for afcertaining the fhip's place, which by feveral correct obfervations was found to be in latitude 5 ° 40', longitude 2 7 3° 8'. By thefe and other obfervations that had been made on the 20th, the fhip appeared to have been fet by the current during the two days Oo miles, in a direction N. 50 E.; this fhewed that the ifland, which we did not confider to be more than moderately high when firft feen, was upwards of 20 leagues diftant. In the morning, as we were driving near to the fhores of the ifland, fome falls of w7ater were obferved defcending from the cliffs into the fea, and as we flood much in need of this neceffary article, as more of our cafks were found to have leaked out, no fmall degree ol impatience was experienced for the return of the boat, as her long abfence had been attributed to want of fuccefs in 3 however finding a fafe place for anchorage, did not prove to be cafe, for her fuppofed detention was wholly occafioned by the great diftance to which the current ^had fet the fhip from the ifland. About four o'clock I had the fatisfaction of being informed by Mr. Whidbey, that the fhores abounded with ftreams and falls of moft excellent water, together with fome cocoa nuts, and plenty of wood for fuel, eafily to be procured; 17^ A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jA*T. cured; efpecially in two fmall bays, both of which afforded anchorage fufficiently fheltered from the prevailing winds at this feafon of the year; the one on the north-eaft, the other on the north-weft part of the ifland. Mr. Whidbey gave the preference- to the moft eaftern, for which, therefore, with a light breeze from the north, we immediately fleered, but were unable to.ftem the current till about nine at night, when the wind frefhened from the N. E.; and with this, about four on Friday morning, the 23d, we reached the fituation Mr. Whidbey had chofen, and moored in 33 fathoms water, fandy and gravelly bottom, and (fo far as we became acquainted,) good holding ground, and free from rocks. The eaft point of the bay, which is a fmall conical iflet lying clofe to the north-eaft extremity of the ifland, bore by compafs S. 5 1 E. diftant half a mile; the weft point of the bay S. 75 W.; a fteep rocky iflet lying off it bore from S. 8/ W. to N. 00 W. ; and the watering place at the mouth of a very fine ftrearn emptying itfelf over a fandy beach, S. 13 W. about three quarters of a mile diftant; the Chatham moored within us in 20 fathoms water, on the fame kind of bottom. As foon as the fhip was fecured I went on fhore, and found that all our wants could be €afil that a1 mot there fome furf tfuiwtii 1795-] HOUND' THE WORLD. 173 furl on the beach it was ineonfiderable, and that not only water and fire-wood, but that cocoa nuts were alfo to be procured in great abundance. No time was now loft in fetting about obtaining a due fupply of thefe effential articles, and in the performing fuch other bufinefs as had become requifite on board; wheTe, at noon, by the mean of four obfervations, with different perfons and inftruments, the latitude was fhewn to be 5° 35' 157/. iffering fo materially from the latitude as Hated in Lord Anfon's and other voyages, and the general appearance of this ifland fo little correfponding with the defer ipti®n given of the ifland of Cocos, efpecially by Dam- pier, and Wafer, gave rife to fome doubts in my mind as to its being the identical ifland fo de- fcribed by thofe gentlemen. Be that as it may, the advantages it afforded us, not only in the articles already mentioned, but in an abundance of very fine fifh, were very important; and as the foil was apparently capable of affording a variety of ufeful vegetables, this ifland did not fail to attract our particular attention ; and being anxious to acquire every information refpecting it that the fhort flay I purpofed to make would allow of, I difpatched Mr. Whidbey on Saturday morning, the 24th, in the large cutter, to take a fketch of its fhores. This fervice he performed, and .returned about four in the afternoon, having 174 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. found them to be compofed of fteep perpendi^ cular rocky cliffs, with fome iflets and rocks lying near them j on which the fea broke with fo much violence as to preclude any attempt to land in any part, excepting in the bay to the weftward of the anchorage we had taken, where Mr. Whidbey had been before, and in that in which the veflels were moored; which were the only two. fituations on the ifland to which veflels could refort. On Sunday morning I made a fhort cx- curfion to the weftern bay, and although a more copious ftream of frefli water was found to flow into it, yet it is certainly not fo eligible a fituation for procuring the good things which the ifland afforded as that whicl lch we occupied, If- *ii. it Wt about half ebb when we reached its fhores, where landed with tolerable convenience. After we had breakfafted, we fatisfied our curiofity in a view of the adjacent country; this was confined by an impenetrable thicket nearly to the limits of the fandy beach, which compoies the bottom of the bay, where, on our return to the boats, we found fome difficulty in re-embarking, owing to an increafe of the furf which.at that time broke upon the beach. At the place on fhore, where our operations Were going on, I had obferved evident marks of European vifitors, from the trees having been felled with axes and laws, wfeilft the decayed ftate 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 173 ftate of the remaining flumps proved t hat they had not been very recently cut down. In this. weftern bay, near to the frefti-water t >rook, a bottle was fufpended on a tree, containin g a note directed to the commander of any ve: might vifit the ifland, and fignfed " Jar nes Cot- nett;" ftating, that the fhip R,atler, S QUth-felL. whaler, of London, had arrived on the 2 Oth. of July, 1793, and, after procuring wooc | water. and other refrefhments, had proceeded on her Toyage, all in good health: that, prey] .oufly to her departure, a breed of hogs and goats 1 lad been left on the ifland, and a variety of gard en leeost* had been fown, but the fpot where thefe. valuable articles had been depofited did not happx :n to fall within the limits of By the time we fell very heavily, a my arrival on board increafed, as very 1 finefs with the fho panied by a frefh \ commence me nt of eel tr am on ich 3U- nch the c though by no means regular times being barely perceptibl ning at leaft at the rate ot tv\ yet "had hitherto let uniform now changed its direction ar ward, but at a very gentle r; 1?6 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jAN. This uncomfortable weather continued, though with fome intermiflion, during the 20th; we, however, made great progrefs in completing our water and fuel, and having nearly exhaufted the neighbouring fhores of their cocoa nuts, I dif- patched two boats with Mr. Manby, the next morning, to the weftern bay, where they were produced in great plenty, to procure a full fupply of them. The boats returned about noon, not having been very fuccefsful, as the heavy furf prevented their landing in that part of the bay where the fruit was moft abundantly produced. By the afternoon we had taken on board about thirty-five tons of water, with as much wood as we could flow; and having thus finilhed all our bufinefs with the fhore, we quitted this ifland in the evening, and made the bell of our way to the fouthward. Having adverted to the fituation and advantages which this fmall fipot of land poflefles, I fhall now more particularly notice fuch matters as occurred to our observation whilft we remained there. It does not appear -from any account with which I am acquainted, to whom we are indebted for the difcovery ot this valuable little ifland; nor, indeed, do the feveral defcriptions of the ifland oi Cocos much accord with each- other, Sfell or T795'-] ROUND THE WORLD. \fj or agree with what we found to be its fituation or appearance. The ifland {cen by Lord Anfon, of which he was within fight for five days, and confidered by him to be the ifland of Cocos, is ftated in his voyage to be fituated 13' to the fouth of what was found by our calculations to be the latitude of this ifland; and fhould this error in the latitude be confidered as reconcilable, it is likely we may both intend the fame ifland. I have not the leaft doubt that the ifland we laft quitted is the fame which Chipperton vifited, and called it the ifland of Cocos. He, I fhould fuppofe, anchored in the weftern bay, but his defcription is too confined to draw from thence any fatisfactory conclufion; but the greateft difference is in the accounts given of the ifland of Cocos by Dampier and Lionel Wafer; thefe differ fo very materially from our obfervations, in point of extent of fituation and appearance, that their reprefentations muft either be excef- fively erroneous, or they muft belong to fome other ifland. After taking all thefe circum- ftances into confideration, it appeared to me by no means unlikely, that fome other ifland might exift not very far remote from this, to which thefe apparently contradictory reports might more properly apply. Two opinions were formed refpecting an in- fcription that was found cut on a rock near to Vol. VI, N ■ our" I7& A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [jAN. our watering place; the letters, which had been originally but ill executed, were much defaced. Look cy> as' you goe for ye I Coco. This I confidered as purporting, " Look to " fouth as you go, for the ifland of Coco," but the more prevailing opinion amongft us was, that it meant, " Look as you go for the ifland of Coco,' this identical ifland. The defaced character after the word " look" might poflibly have originally been intended to fignify the north, yet as We met with no other in its vicinity, it is probable that this latter opinion was moft correct; tor which reafon I have adopted the name of Cocos for the ifland in queftion. According to the fketch made by Mr.Whidbey, the ifland of Cocos is about four leagues in circuit, lying in a N. E. and S. W. direction; it is about four miles long, and two miles broad, with feveral detached rocks and iflets fcattered about its fhores; thofe lying off its fouth-weft part extend to the greateft diftance, which is nearly two miles, but they cannot be confidered as dangerous becaufe they are fufriciently high to be {een and avoided. The fmall bay in which we had anchored at the north-eaft end of the ifland is greatly to be preferred to the other weftward of it; for the fmall iflet that lies off its north- weft point adds greatly to its protection from the 1795 ] ROUND THE WORLD. 17Q the wind and fea. The width of the bay from point to point of the two iflets that form each o{ its extremities is about a mile, in a direction S. 52 E. and N. 52 W. and from this line its extent to the bottom of the bay is alfo about a mile; the foundings are regular from 12 to 50 fathoms, and veflels may ride very fnugly within lefs than half a mile of the beach, in about 20 fathoms water, but in a lefs depth the bottom did not appear to be fo free from rocks. The weftern bay is more extenfive and more expofed, and its foundings are neither fo regular, nor is the bottom fo good ^ but Item the abundance and great variety of vegetable proddetions that grow clofe to the verge o&fitgh water mark in both bays, it fhould feem that neither of therm are fubject to very violent ftorms, or heavy fbas. The climate was confidered by us as temperate and falubrious, for although the thermometer was ufually between 78 and 80, we did not feel that oppreflSve heat which we had experienced further to the northward; and notwithftanding. that our people were greatly expofed to the heavy rains that fell while tranfacting our bufinefs on fhore, yet not the leaft interruption from want of health took place, which in various other tropical iflands frequently attends the execution of fimilar fervices. N 2 This f«r 180 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [jAN. This ifland cannot be confidered as having a pleafant appearance in any one point of viewy for although its inland furface is much diverfified by hills and vallies; yet the only low land of any extent that we were certain it polTefles is in the bottom of the two baysr each of which form the extremity of one of thefe valleys bounded by craggy precipices, from the foot of which extends a narrow ftrip of low flat land that terminates in a beach at the water fide, refembling more the dreary profpect exhibited at the heads of the feveral branches of fea we had fo recently explored on the coaft of North Weft America, than any thing elfe I could compare them to. Every other part of the fhore feemed to be compofed of fteep, broken precipices of rock, of which fubftance the interior of the ifland was apparently compofed, as the naked cliffs were frequently feen protruding their barren fides through 1 J x D O the thicket, which other wife covered the furface of the ifland. This thicket, fo far as we were enabled to afcertain, was chiefly compofed of a great variety of trees of a moderate fize, with an impenetrable underwood of the vine or fupple- jack kind, which oppofed any excurfion into the country ; fome attempts were, I believe, made to penetrate thither by the water courfe, but this, from rocky precipices and other obftructions, was found to be equally impracticable ; our knowledge 17§5.] ROUND THE WORLD. 18! ledge of its productions muft confequently be confined to our obfervations on the fmall margin between the wToods and the fea fhore, the only part that was acceflible to us. In refpect of its future utility, the firft object of consideration to maritime people is the abundant fupply of water- that it affords. This abounds in every part of the ifland, and is to be eafily procured at the flations to which veflels can refort. From its purity and limpid appearance, and from its being deftitute of any colour or unpleafant tafle, either from dead leaves or other putrid or rotten matter, though very heavy rains had fallen during the time we had been at anchor there, it may reafonably be inferred that the larger ftreams of water have a more remote and permanent fource than the accidental fhowers that at this feafon of the year may defcend upon the ifland. The foil in the immediate neighbourhood of the ftreams that fall into each of the bays is of a poor, loofe, fandy nature ; but at a little diftance behind the beach, and in the filTures of the rocks, a rich black mould was obferved, apparently capable of affording much vegetable nourifliment; and this may alfo be the cafe in other parts ot the ifland, although we had no power of ascertaining the fact. All its vegetable productions v luxuriantly, and covered the appeared to grow luxuriantly, ifland in one entire wildernefs. On I le rocKy 182 A V0YAGS OF DISCOVERY [jAN° cliffs near the fea fide, whofe uneven furface admitted the growth of vegetables, a coarfe kind of grafs is produced, that afforded an excellent retreat for the different kinds of fea fowl which reforted thither to rooft and build their nefts, or more properly fpeaking to lay their eggs, as they are at little pains to form a neft of any defcrip- tion. About thefe cliffs grew a very particular kind of tree, fomething like the cloth plant of the South Sea iflands, but much larger; fome of thefe grow to the height of about thirty feet, are of a lightilh coloured bark, free from branches to the top, which is fomewhat bufhy, and for that reafon was called by us the umbrella tree. There were fome few other trees whofe foliage ftrongly refembled that of the bread fruit, but as no one of them was in bearing near the beach, I was not able pofitively to determine their fpe~ cies. Many of the trees that compofed the fo- reft, efpecially in the interior and elevated parts of the ifland, feemed to be of confiderable fize, Spreading out into large branches towards their tops, which in point of height greatly furpaffed the others. I was inclined to believe that thefe trees were of the fame fort with thofe from which we principally obtained our fuel, although near to the fea-fide they did not grow fo large as on the hills; Mr. Manby, who moft commonly luperintended that fervice, gave me the followT- ing 1795-] ROUND THE WORLD. 3 83 ing account of them. This tree is very generally produced all over the ifland, its trunk grows very ftraight to the height of twenty, or thirty feet before it throws out its branches, which are fo clofe, large, and fpreading, as to afford extremely good flielter againft both fun and rain ; the Items of feveral were capable of fquarino- to twelve or fourteen inches; the grain is clofe, fome what variegated, and reddifti towards the heart; it yielded to the axe with tolerable eafe, to the faw it was equally fitted, and being free from knots, it fplit without much labour ; its leaves are of a dark green colour, fmooth at the edge, and not much unlike the laurel, though rather longer; the feed refembling a fmall acorn is borne in elufters. The wood is well calculated for burning. Mr. Manby defcribes another fort, (which we cut for fuel alfo,) as having a whitifh fmooth bark, growing tall and ftraight, and pro ducing bu nr4ip«s oranches. Its leal is large, and ling that of the horfe-chefhut, of a light green colour, with a velvet furface ; it appeared to be fit for little elfe than fire-wood, and not the moft proper even for that purpofe, as it has a thick pith in the center of it that occupies a large portion of the Item or branches. The wood is of a white clofe gram, fplits readily, but does not burn remarkably well. The cocoa- nut trees, which grow7 not only on the fea-lhore N'-i but 184 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jAN. but high up on the fides of the hills, were the only trees we faw that bore any fruit, although, in one of the rivulets, an unripe guava was picked up, which, moft probably, had come from the interior country; in addition to thefe, we noticed an abundance of different forts of fern, fome of which produced a flem nearly fix inches in diameter, and grew to the height of nearly twenty feet; thefe, as well as I recollect, were exactly of the fame defcription as thofe commonly found in New Zealand. Such were the moft general vegetable productions of this ifland that fell under our obfervation, to which we further added the feeds of apples, peaches, melons, pumkins, with beans, peas, &c. Thefe were fown by Mr. Swaine, in a fpot cleared for that purpofe, where he was of opinion they were likely to thrive. With refpcct to the animal kingdom, fifli and fowl feemed to be in great abundance, and we entertained hopes that future vifitors may benefit by Captain Colnett's liberality ; as juft before Mr. Swaine left the illand a young hog, in very excellent condition, was feen by him and fome of his party, but on his difcovering our people he haftily retreated into the thicket. Although at no very great diftance from the ifland we had feen fuch numbers of turtle, it was Angularly remarkable that there was not the moft diftant {i^n 1795-] ROUND THE WORLD. 185 fign of their reforting to thefe fliores. The land abounded with white and brown rats, and vaft numbers of land crabs. All the birds of the oceanic tribe, common to the tropical regions, repaired hither in great flocks, and were by no means bad eating. Befides thefe were feen hawks, a fpecies of brown and white herons, rails, a kind of blackbird, and a few others, that chiefly inhabited the woods; which, with fome ducks and teals, were what was obferved principally to compofe the feathered race. A great variety and abundance of excellently good fifli frequented the fhores; fliarks alfo were very numerous, and the moft bold and voracious I had ever before feen. Thefe aflfembled in the bay in large fhoals, conftantly attended on our boats in all their mo tions, darting at the c accident fell, or was ti quently took the fifh could be got clear of t more Angular, when < fo taken, and they pi defend himfelf, he wa pieces, and devoured I alive; and, notwithfl fobjected themfelves harpoons, knives, &c they received many c did not deter them frc ;, and every thing that by wn overboard. They fre- >m the hooks before they water, and what was ftill \ of their own fpecies was eived he could no longer nftantly attacked, torn to lis companions, whilft yet ding that thefe monIters 3e greatly annoyed by the f our people, by which p wounds, yet even that renewing the attack upon the aglpf 185 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [j-AN. the one which was caught, until every part of the victim's flefli was thus torn from its bones. On this occafion we had an opportunity of obferving, that it is erroneous to fuppofe the fhark is under the neceflity of turning on his back for the purpofe of taking his prey, as thefe fharks moft com-? monly attained their object without firft turning themfelves, as has been generally believed. The general warfare that exifts between fea- faring perfons and thefe voracious animals, afforded at firft a fpecies of amufement to our people, by hooking, or otherways taking one for the others to feaft upon, but as this was attended with the ill confequence of drawing immenfe numbers round the fhip, and as the boatfwain and one of the young gentlemen had nearly fallen a faerifice to this diverfion, by narrowly efcaping from being drawn out of the boat by an im- menfely large fhark, which they had hooked, into the midft of at leaft a fcore of thefe voracious animals, I thought proper to prohibit all further indulgence in this fpecies of entertainment ; which, independently of its being likely to be attended with ferious confequences, was in itfelf of too cruel a nature to be witneffed without pain. Thefe fharks appeared to be of three diftinct forts ; the moft numerous were of the ijtyp^er kind, thefe were beautifully ftreaked down their fides ; the other forts were the brown and the 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 18? the blue fharks ; and it was Angularly remarkable, that although they all voracioufly devoured the two former fpecies, yet when one of the latter was caught, it remained unmolefted by the reft, and even when killed, and cut up, its flefh was not eaten by its companions. The other kinds of fifti that fell under my notice, befide thofe common to the tropical feas, were two forts of bream, the large fnapper of the Weft Indies, a fort of rock fifh, and another kind commonly called yellow tail; thefe were all very excellent, and took the hook readily; and to thofe wdio may follow us, and ftand in need of refrefhments, they may prove a moft de- Arable refource ; and there can be little doubt but that perfons under fuch circumftances would foon fall upon fome expedient, to evade the inconvenience to which they might be liable from the extreme vigilance of the fharks. Nor is it improbable, that on a more minute examination, the furface of this little ifland may be found to produce many articles of refrefhment; but as we did not ftand much in need of any, excepting the neceffary article of water, our attention was not directed to fuch inquiries, being wholly en- )fTed in poliible m >ans of difpatch in providing ourfelves with thofe fe1 with which wc could not difpenfe. particulars We 3 88 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JAN. We happily flood in no great need of fearch- ing for refrefhments at any great diftance from the fhores of the ifland ; for, excepting that I continued to be in a very feeble and debilitated ftate, there was not on board either of the veflels a fingle individual who was not in the higheft health imaginable. In confequence of the in- difpofition under which I had fo long laboured, I was only able to go once on fhore in each of the bays, or I might poflibly have,acquired more knowledge refpecting this fmall though valuable fpot of land. The comfort we derived from the water, and the few other fupplies there obtained juftly entitled it to our confideration ; and as from its fituation it is not unlikely that it may become a place of importance to thofe whofe purfuits may direct them to this part of the Pacific Ocean, I truft I Ihall be excufed for having dwelt fo long on a fubject which I could not but regard as deferving attention; not only as far as it refpects the productions of the ifland, but alfo to fhew, that the defcription of the ifland of Cocos given by Dampier from the obfervations of others, and that ftated by Lionel Wafer from his own, are either extremely inapplicable to its prefent circumftances and appearance, or have reference to fome other ifland in its neighbourhood. It is much to be regretted that Dampier had 2795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 1SQ had not himfelf vifited this ifland, as from the great accuracy of moft of the obfervations made by that judicious traveller, few doubts could have arifen concerning the identity of the ifland he meant to defcribe. I am more inclined to attribute this deviation from the truth to mifre- prefentation, than to any other caufe, from our having acquired a tolerably competent knowledge of that part of the ocean between the 5th and Oth degrees of north latitude, for at leaft four degrees of longitude to the weftward of the ifland in queftion, m which fpace there is not much likelihood of there being any other ifland- For the purpofe of commemorating our vifit to the ifland of Cocos, I directed that the date of our arrival, with the names of the veflels and the commanders, fhould be cut on the fame rock where the other inscription was found : the two former I underftood was executed, but it feems that fome obftacle arofe to prevent the :Infertion of the latter. The reafons before ftated for fuppofing that this ifland may hereafter prove ufeful to thofe who may traverfe thefe feas, demanded that the utmoft attention fhould be paid to the fixing with'accuracy its true pofition. By the refult of all our obfervations, comprehending 152 fets, taken between the 29th of December 1794, and the lOth of January 1795; and 155 fets taken afterwards between the 28th of January. J90 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jAN. nuary, and the lOth of February following, the longitude of the anchorage deduced thus from 300 fets of lunar diftances from the fun and ftars, each fet as ufual containing fix obfervations, appeared to be as follow: The mean of 37 fets on both fides D before our arrrival by Mr. Whidbey, 272<*54f46'? 37 ditto ditto Mr. Baker, 273 1 43 37 ditto ditto ' Mr. Manby, 38 ditto ditto Mr. Orchard, 3 ditto ditto Myfelf, 32 ditto after our departure Myfelf, 34 ditto ditto Mr. Whidbey, 36 ditto ditto Mr. Baker, 25 ditto ditto Mr. Manby, 27 ditto ditto Mr. Orchard, The mean of the whole 306 lets collectively taken, and reduced to the anchorage by Arnold's No. 14, according to its new rate, fhe wed the true longitude to be — From this authority, and from feveral fets of altitudes of the fun carefully taken whilft in the bay, the errors and rates of the chronometers were found to be as follow : Arnold's No. 14, fall of mean time at Greenwich at noon on the 27th of January 1795, 5h4l' 3r/20^ And to be gaining per day on mean tiirie at the rate of — — 20 2 Arnold's No. 176* fall of meart time at Greenwich at fame time, — 12 11 18 20 And to be gaining per day on mean time, 41 5 Kendall's 273 3 3 273 4 58 273 2 55 273 8 42 273 10 38 273 14 55 272 53 15 273 21 53 273 5 34 — 5° 35; 12* to the Monteirey 273°3G'40ff 274 47 55 274 55 10 1795.J ROUND THE WORLD. lgi Kendall's fall of mean time at Greenwich at fame time, — — 10h 217 19* QQ*f And to be gaining per day on mean time 21 35 The latitude by twenty meridional altitudes of the fun and fea horizon, by the back obfervation taken by five different obfervers with different inlhuments, and varying from .5° 337to 5° 377 207/, ihewed the mean refult to be — — The longitude according rate was, By Arnold's chronometer, No. i4, Ditto ditto 176, And by Kendall's, — By which it appeared that No. 14 was 3 i' 5", No. 17O, 42' 20/;, and Kendall's chronometer, 1°49/ 35/Y to the eaftward of the true longitude. The variation of the compafs by four fets of azimuths differing from S° 14' to 7°217, ihewed the mean refult to be — 7* 45reailward[y. The vertical inclination of the magnetic nee- die, Marked End, North Face Eaft, 190 4 7f Ditto ditto Weft, 20 17 Ditto South Face Eaft, 19 \ 7 Ditto ditto Weft, ig 40 Mean inclination of the north point of the magnetic dipping needle, 19 45 The rife and fall of the tides were, by the 'fhore, found to be very confiderable and regular twice )9& A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [.JAM. twice in the twenty-four hours without any apparent ftream, and were not in the leaft influenced by the currents. The night tides appeared to be the higheft, and were eftimated to rife nearly ten feet perpendicularly, though the furf •was too high to admit of any cor reel meafure- ment. The time of high water was pretty clearly afcertained to be about 2h lo' after the moon pafles the meridian. Having, as before ftated, put to fea from the ifland of Cocos, on the evening of the 27th of January, and having no intention of flopping fhort of the ifland of Juan Fernandez, or fome port on the coaft of Patagonia, for the purpofe of again recruiting our water and flore of firewood, the fhip's courfe was directed fouthwardly, but with fo gentle a breeze during the night, that although we had all fail fet, yet, in the morning of Wednefday the 28th, the ifland continued in fight until about nine in the forenoon, ■when it bore by compafs N. 30 W., diftant forty- fix miles ; fhortly after this time we loft fight of it, not from its being beneath the horizon, but. from its being obfeured by clouds and an hazi- nefs in the atmofphere. At noon the obferved latitude was 4° 43;, the longitude 273° 17'; by which it appeared that, fince quitting our anchorage, a current had fet us in a direction S. 12 E., eighteen miles. In the afternoon fuch immenfe 1795-] ROUND THE WORLD. 1Q3 immenfe flioals of fifti were playing about on the furface of the water as to be miftaken at firft for breakers. During the night the wind was very light from the weftward, and on the following* o o morning, Thurfday the 29th, the weather wTas calm, with very heavy fain; but in-the forenoon, although the atmofphere continued very gloomy, we procured the neceflary obfervations to fhew the latitude to be 3°29/, the longitude 2/3° 25', whence we appeared to have been fet by a current 40 miles, in a direction S. 5 E.; a few turtles were this day about the fliip, fome of which were taken. In the afternoon wre had a light freeze variable between the eaft and S. S. E., with which we flood to the fouth-weftward; the night was nearly calm with very heavy rain, but the next morning, Friday.the 30th, we had again a fouth-eafterly breeze with fome rain, which in the forenoon ceafed, and permitted us to obferve the latitude at noon to be 2° 35', which was 30; to the fouth of what was fhewn by the fog. With a moderate breeze, varying between S. by W. and S. E. we flood on fuch tacks, as would enable us to make the belt of our way to the fouthward, and at noon on Saturday the 3lft the obferved latitude was 2°ll/, the longitude 272° 12', from which it appeared that the current during the laft twenty-four hours had fet us 12 miles to the fouth, and from the 29th Vol. VI. O at 104 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [FEE. at noon 41 miles to the weftward. Since leav* ing the ifland of Cocos we had obferved many riplings on the water, and had experienced an uncomfortable irregular fwell from the fouthward. On Sunday the ift of February the weather became more pleafant, and the wind at S. S. E. blew fo fleady a breeze, that I concluded we had at length reached the regular trade wind. In the forenoon we paffed by fome fea weed and drift wood, a cocoa-nut, and a ftick of fugar (jarie about nine feet long ; all of which, excepting the former, appeared to have been no great length of time in the water. The obferved latitude at noon was f°31/, longitude 2 70° 26'; the former agreed exactly with the log, but by the latter we appeared to have been fet fince the preceding noon 10 miles in a weft direction. The vaft numbers of fifh that ftill attended us afforded us a very profitable amufement, and many birds were ftill about us. The wind which now hung far to the fouth, obliged us to make a much more wefterly courfe than I could have wilhed, as I had entertained hopes of being able to pafs near enough to the Gallipagos iflands to have had an opportunity of ascertaining their true fituation ; but as the weftern moft of them are faid to be under the meridian of the ifland of Cocos, which was now nearly three degrees to the eaftward of us> the chance of Succeeding m this ^7950 ROUND THE WORLD. 1Q5 this expectation wTas now fo little, that I gave up every idea of accomplifhing that object. Land was difcovered on Monday forenoon to the W. S. W.; it then appeared to be a very fmall ifland, which at noon bore by compafs S. 72 W., eight or nine leagues diftant. As our obferved latitude was 1° 26', longitude 208°43A, and the variation of the compafs 8° eaftwardly, we appeared to have been fet in the courfe of the laft twenty-four hours 10 miles to the north, and 28 miles to the weftward. The influence of this current fetting to the W. N. W. was very perceptible, for although with a light air of wind during the afternoon our courfe was directed to the fouth- weft ward, yet fo rapidly were we 'J X J driven in the above direction of the current, that, at fun-fet, this ifland bore by compafs S. 40 W., and another ifland, which had been difcovered about an hour and an half before, bore, at the fame time, N. 72 W. During the night we had a light breeze from the S. S. W., with which we flood to the S. E.; but fo far were wcfromftem- ming the current, that, at day-litrht on the fol- lowing morning, Tucfday the 3d, the firft of thefe iflands bore by compafs S. 08 E., diftant {xyl leagues, and the fecond N. 1 7 W., 12 miles dif-. tant. At fuch a rate had we been driven by the current between thefe iflands, that, notwithftand*. ing we ufed every endeavour to prefers our fta- O 2 tion i§Q A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [FEB-. tk>n by keeping as the wind veered on the moft advantageous tacks, yet, at noon, the firft ifland bore by compafs E. by S., at the diftance of nine leagues,, and the other N. N. E. | E., at the diftance of 1 7 miles. In this fituation the obferved latitude was 1° 28", longitude 207°49/,by which the current appeared to have fet us, fince the preceding day at noon, ten miles to the north, and fifty miles to the weft ward. In palling between thfcfe iflands, which lie from each other N. 42 W. and S. 42 E., at the diftance of twenty-one miles, we obferved neither danger nor obftrucfion; the fouthernmoft^ which is the largeft, did not appear to exceed four miles in circuit, and the northernmoft about half a league ; the former is fituated in latitude 1°22/ 30/;, and longitude 268° l0/. Its north- weftern fide forms a kind of long faddle hill, the northern part of which is higheft in the middle,, and fboots out into a low point, which at firft fight was confidered by us to be an iflet, but was afterwards believed to be united. A fmall peaked neck or iflet lies off its fouth-weft fide, which, like all the other parts of it, excepting that towards the north, is compofed of perpendicular -naked rocky cliffs. On the low north-weft part we faw what we fuppofed to be trees, but we were by no means certain, for the ifland in general prefented to us a very dreary and unpro- . duclive I795-] ROUND THE WORLD. 197 dtwSive appearance. The northernmoft ifland rofe in naked cliffs from the fea, off* which are two iflets, or fmall rocks; that on its eaft fide is remarkable for its flat table top,, and for its .being perforated nearly in the middle. The fituation of thefe iflands, the eafternmoft being nearly 5° to the weftward of the meridian of the ifland of Cocos, gave us at firft reafon to fiippofe them a new difcovery, and not a part of the group of the -Gallipagos, as all the ancient accounts agree in placing the Cocos due north from the weftern- moft of that duller of iflands ; but when we took into conflderation true very rapid currents by which we had been controlled, they eaAly accounted for errors to which other navigators muft neceflarily have been fubjecled, who have not; like ourfelves, been fo well provided with the means of afcertaining the full effect of their influence; which had, fince our leaving that ifland, produced a difagreement of upwards of two degrees of longitude in our dead reckoning. The decifion of this point remained, therefore, to be determined by our further progrefs to the fouth ; for, in the event of the firft or fouthern moft, beir Wenman's ifland, and northern, that called Culpepper's ifland, the northernmoft of that group of iflands, little doubt was entertained of our meeting with more of them in purfuing our fouthern courfe; in doing O 3 which 198 A-VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [FEB. which we were not very expeditious the two fucceeding^days, as the wind between S. S. W. and S. S E. was very variable in point of ftrength; and although we endeavoured to take every advantage it afforded, {o little progrefs did we make againft the adverfe current, that on the 5th, the moft fouthern of thefe two iflands was ftill in fight, and at noon bore by compafs N. 31 W., diftant eight or nine leagues. The obferved latitude at this time was 59', longitude 268° 27f, by the dead reckoning 2 71° 24'; having, in the laft twenty-four hours, been fet by the current feven miles to the north, and forty-eight miles to the weftward. As we were now approaching the equator, and as the fea was tolerably fmooth, fome further obfervations were made on the vertical inclination of the magnetic needle, which fhe wed The marked end North face Eaft, 7° 81 Ditto ditto Weft, 8 3 Ditto South face Eaft, 7 28 Ditto ditto Weft, 7 3 8 Mean inclination, — 7 28 The variation of the compafs, at the fame time, — 8 eaftwardly. We advanced fo flowly from thefe iflands, that at fun-fet the fouthernmoft of them was ftill within our view, bearing by compafs N. 12 W. The wind was mollly at S. S. W. during the night, 3 795-] ROUND THE WORLD. 199 night, with this we flood to the fouth-eaftward, and at day-light on Friday morning the Oth, difcovered a more extenlive land than the two iflands we had juft paffed, bearing by compafs from S. 10 E. to S. 35 E. This land appeared to be very lofty, to be at a confiderable diftance from us, and to be divided into three or more iflands ; but as we approached it the lefs elevated parts wTere feen to be connected, fo that, in the forenoon, it feemed to be only divided into two portions, and even this divilion was rendered doubtful, as we drew nearer to it, by the lowland rifing to view until about noon, when the whole extended by compafs from S. 42 E. to S. 10 E., with a detached rock S. 2 W. In this fituation the obferved latitude was 28' north, the longitude 208° 32'; having been fet, in the laft twenty-four hours, by the current twenty-fix miles to the weftv ■H. Th This, however, appeared to have taken place in the early part of that day, as Ance our having made the land in the morning, we had approached it with a light breezes without having apparently been influenced by any current whatever. In the afternoon a pleafant breeze fprang up from the fouth-weftward, with which we ftood clofe-hauled in for the land, and before fun-fet faw very plainly, that what we had for fome hours before confidered to be two iflands, was all' O 4 connected 200 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY £fEB, ■connected by depreffcd land on which was a. hummock, that had alfo appeared like a fmall ifland; and beyond this low land, at a confider- able diftance to the fouthward, was feen an ex- tenfive lofty table mountain. The land immediately before us formed alfo towards its eafterar extremity a fimilar table mountain, and towards its weftern point a very regular fliaped round mountain, which, though not of equal height to the others, was yet of confidsrable elevation, and in this point of view feemed to defcend with great uniformity. The eafternmoft, terminating in a low point with fome fmall hummocks upon it, at fix in the evening bore by compafs S. 47 E.; the wefternmoft, which terminated more abruptly, S. 13 W.; and the detached rock, which is fteep, with a flat top, S. 71 W. The whole of this connected land appeared now to. form an extenfive lofty tracl; and as I had no intention of flopping, the object for confideration was, on which fide we fhould be moftJikely to make the beft paffage ? The fouth-weft wind from its fteadinefs, and the appearance of the weather, feemed to be fixed in that quarter, and as we approached the fhore wTe found a ftrong current fetting to windward; I therefore did not hefitate to ufe our endeavours to pafs to the weftward of this ifland, which under all circumftances appeared to me to be the beft plan to purfue. 1795-] ROUND THE WORLD. <L0\ We drew in with the ifland until about nine at night, when wTe were within about a league of its fhores, and finding that the windward current was the ftrongeft near to the land, the night was employed in making fhort trips between the fliores of the ifland and the flat rock before mentioned, frequently trying for foundings with 100 fathoms of line without fuccefs. On Saturday the 7 th, we were nearly up with the weftern extremity of the ifland, and as the weather was fair and pleafant with a very gentle breeze of wind, I wifhed, whilft the fhip was turning up along fhore, to acquire fome knowledge of what the country conflfted, and for that purpofe immediately after breakfaft Mr. Whidbey, accompanied by Mr. Menzies, was difpatched with orders to land fome where to the fouthward of the weftern extremity of the land then in fight, which had been named Cape Berkeley. The part of the ifland we were now oppofite to, and that which we were near to the preceding evening forming its north-weftern fide, either fhoots out into long, low black points, or terminates in abrupt cliffs of no great height, without any appearance of affording anchorage or fheltcr for fhipping. The furf broke on every part of the fliores with much violence, and the country wore a very dreary defolate afpec\, being deftitujjfce- of wood, and --nearly fo of verdure to a conflder- able 202 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [FEB. able diftance from the fea fide, until near the fummit of the mountains, and particularly on that which formed nearly the north-weftern part of the ifland; where vegetation, though in no very flourifhing ftate, had exiftence. The obferved latitude at noon, being then within four or five miles of its fliores, was 7\' north, the longitude 208° 2Qf'; in which fituation the fteep flat rock, called Rodondo rock, bore by compafs N. 20 W.; the eafternmoft part of the ifland now in fight, N. 78 E., and cape Berkeley in a line with "more diftant land, fup- pofed by us to be another ifland, fouth. As we advanced, the regular round mountain afiumed a more peaked fhape, and defcending with fome inequalities, terminated at the north-weft extremity in a low barren rocky point, fituated according to our obfervations - in latitude 21 north, 208a 30.' eaft. From it the fteep flat rock lies N. 2 W., diftant 12 miles ; and the fliores of the north-weft fide of the ifland, fo far as we traced them, took a direction about N. 50 E. fixteen miles; the wTind for the moft part of the day continued light and variable between the weft and S. W., but with the help of the current which ftill continued to run in our favour, we paffed in the afternoon to the fouth of cape Berkeley, from whence the fhores to the fouth ward of that point tak a rounding turn to the eaftward* 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 203 eaftward, and fhoot out into low rocky points. The interior country exhibited the moft fhatter- ed, broken, and confufed landfcape I ever beheld, feemingly as if formed of the mouths of innumerable craters of various heights and different Azes. This opinion was confirmed about five in the afternoon on the return of Mr. Whidbey and his party, from whom I underftood, that about two leagues to the eaft fouth-eaftward of cape Berkeley, a bay had been difcovered round a very remarkable hummock, which feemed likely to afford tolerably good anchorage and fhelter from the prevailing winds; but as Mr. Whidbey had little time to fpare, and as the fhores afforded neither fuel nor frefli water, he was not very particular in this examination, but endeavoured to gain fome knowledge concerning the general productions of the country. During the fliort time the gentlemen were fo employed on fhore, thofe remaining in the boat, with only two hooks and lines, nearly loaded her with exceedingly fine fifh, fufficient for ourfelves, and feme to fpare for the Chatham. Our opinion, that this part of the ifland had been greatly fub- ject to volcanic eruptions, appeared by this vifit to have bqen well founded; fince it fhould feem, that it is either indebted for its elevation above the furface of the ocean to volcanic powers, or that at no very remote period it had been fo pro- fufely 204. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [FEB. fufely covered with volcanic matter, as to render its furface incapable of more than the bare exift- ence of vegetables ; as a few only were found to be produced in the chafms or broken furface of the lava, of which the fubftratum of the whole ifland feemed to be compofed. Inftead of the different fpecies of turtles which are generally found in the tropical, or equatorial regions, thefe fhores, however Angular it may feem, abounded with that defcription of thofe animals which are tifually met with in the temperate zones, bordering on the arctic and antarctic circles: the penguin and fealsalfo, fome of which latter I under- ilood were of that tribe which are conAdered to be of the fur kind, were feen, as likewife fome guanas and fnakes; thefe, together with a fdw birds, of which in point of number the dove bore the greateft proportion, were wKat appeared principally to compofe the inhabitants of this ifland; with which, from its very uncommon appearance, I was very defirous to have become better acquainted ; but we had now no time to fpare for fuch an inquiry, nor fhould I indeed have been able perfonally to have indulged my curio- fity, as I ftill continued to labour under a very indifferent ftate of health, which in feveral other inftances had deprived me of fimilar gratifications. At fun-fet the fteep fiat rock bore by compafs N. I W. 1795-] ROUND THE WORLD. *tt$3^ N. 5 W. and the land in fight from N. 50 W. to S. Q E.; the former, being the north-weft point of the ifland, and the latter, the land that- was ftated at noon to be in a line with it, ftill at a conflderabie diftance from us; both of which feemed to form very projecting points, from whence the fhores retired far to the eaftward; but whether only a deep bay was thus formed*, or whether the land was here divided into two* feparate iflands, our diftance was too great to determine. In the evening the wind frefhened from the S. S. W. with which we plied to the fouthward, and having ftill the ftream in our favor, we kept near the fhore where the current continued to be the ftrongeft. At midnight this breeze was fticceeded by a calm, which lafted until day-light the next morning, when, with a light breeze, and the afGftance of the current, we made fome progrefs along fhore. As we advanced, land further diftant, and apparently detached, was dif. covered to the S. S-. E.; at noon the obferved latitude was 18i' fouth, the longitude 208° 23' ; in tliis fituation we were oppofite to the land mentioned the preceding day at noon. This takes a circular form, and fhoots into feveral fmall low projecting points. From the moft confpicuous of thefe, called cape Douglas, the adjacent fhores take on one fide a north-eaft- 206" A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [FEB1. wardly, and on the other a foutherly, direction,, Fhe above, being the neareft Ihore, bore by com- 78- p iftant Ave miles; the fouthern- pak moft part of this land in fight S. 39 E.; the weft point of the laft-difcovered detached land, which is named Chriftopher's point, S. 28 E. ; and cape J Berkeley N. 14 W. The land we were now abreaft of bore a ftrong refemblance to that feen tthe preceding day, equally barren and dreary towards the fea-flde, but giving nourifhment to a few fcattered vegetable productions on the more elevated part, which rofe to a table mountain of conflderable height and magnitude, and is the fourth mountain of this table-like form of which this land is compofed. The wind, during the afternoon and night, blew a gentle breeze from the fouthward, but as we continued to be affifted by the current fetting to windward, we made fome progrefs in that direction, and were fuftlcienJy to the fouthward the next morning, Monday the 9th, to afcertain pretty clearly that the laft-difcovered land, now bearing S. 54 E. diftant nine leagues, was dif- tinct from the fecond difcovered land, or ifland; and that its weftern part, Chriftopher's point, lies from the fouth point of the fecond-difcovered land, which is called cape Hamond, S. ] 3 E. at the diftance of twenty miles. Thus concluded our examination of thefe fliores, 17950 ROUND THE WORLD. 207 fhores, which proved to be thofe of the Gallipagos iflands. The wind now feemed to be fettled in the fouth-eaftern quarter, blowing a Heady pleafant gale ; and as the weather was fine, we were once more flattered with the pleafing hopes of having at length reached the regular fouth-eaft trade wind ; we therefore made the beft of our way to the fouth-weftward with all fail fet, and at noon obferved we were in latitude 44' fotfth.v The longitude by the feveral chronometers, agreeably to their rates as afcertained at the ifland of Cocos, was by Arnold's No. 14, 2O70 541 ZQ11 Ditto 17G, 2O7 52 45 Kendall's, 2O7 52 30 But by the dead reckoning it appeared to be - - 2 72 2 0 The variation of the furveying com pals was 8° eaftwardly, and the vertical inclination of the marine dipping needle was-, Marked End, North face Eaft, Ditto ditto Weft, Ditto South face Eaft, Ditto ditto Well, Mean inclination of the north point of the marine dipping needle, The very exact corrofpondence of the longitude by the chronometers, and which had uniformly been the cafe ever flnce our departure from the ifland of Cocos., induced me to believe, that 50' 45. 30 30 20 2'0& A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jFEB/. that at Ieaft the relative pofltion in point of longitude of that ifland with thefe would be found correct; and I trull, that the means adopted to afcertain the longitude of the former, will not be found liable to any material error. On reference to the relative portion of the land to which our attention had been directed fince the Oth of this month, the delineation of its fhores from our obfervations, will be found to - bear a very ftriking refemblance to that of the wefternmoft of the Gallipagos, as laid down in Captain Cook's general chart; and although the fituation of Wenmans ifland does not correctly agree, yet the correfpondence of the larger portions of the land with the above chart, is doubt- lefs a further confirmation of their being the fame as is therein intended to be reprefented; from whence I fhould fuppofe,* that the firft and third portions of land feen by us conftituted Albemarle ifland, and that the fecond was Narborough's ifland. Thefe names were given by the Buccaneers, as alfo that of Rodondo rock to the fteep flat rock, and Chriftopher's point to the weft point of the third land J and under this perfua- fion, this is the fouth-weft point of Marlborough ifland, which is fituated according to our obfer- * This conje&ure was on m)r return to England fully confirmed by the information I received in confequenoe of Captain Colnett's vilit to thefe iflands. vations 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD, 209 vations in-latitude 50; fouth, longitude 208° 34/ eaft. From thefe conclufions, all the objects I had had in view in fleering this fouth -eaft wardly courfe from Monterrey appeared to have been accomplifhed ; fince I had not entertained the moft diftant intention of flopping, to make furveys or correct examinations of any iflands we might fee. But as the fituation of thofe which were lying not far out of our track had been va- rioufly reprefented, I anxioufly wrilhed to obtain fuch information as would place this matter out of all difpute for the future; and having been enabled to effect this purpofe to my fatisfaction, it was fome recompence for the very irkfome and tedious paflage we had experienced in con- fequencc the light baffling wTinds that had conftantly attended us after we had paffed cape Corientes; fince* which time, to our ftation this day at noon, our progrefs upon an average had not been more than at the rate of 10 leagues per day. I fliall now proceed to ftate, what little more occurred to my knowledge or obfervation refpecting that part of the Gallipagos iflands that we were now about to leave. The climate appeared to be Angularly temperate for an equatorial country. Since our departure from the ifland of Cocos the mercury in the thermometer had Vol. VI. V {eUonx 210 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [FEB, feldom rifen above 78, and for the three preceding days it had moftly been between the 74th and 7^th degree; the atmofphere felt light and exhilarating, and the wind which came chiefly from the fouthern quartejf was very cool and refrefhing. The fliores appeared to be fteep and bold, free from flioals or hidden dangers; fome riplings were obferved, which at firft were fup- pofed to be occafioned by the former, but as foundings were not gained when we were in them, thefe riolings were attributed to the meet- ing of currents. The lofty mountains of which this land is principally compofed, excepting that which forms its north-weftern part, appeared to us in general to defcend with much regularity from a nearly flat or table fummit, and to terminate at the bafe in projecting points on very low level land ; fo that, at a diftance, each of thefe mountains appeared to form a diftinct ifland. This circumftance may probably have given rife to the different flatements of former vifitors concerning the number of this group of iflands; all of them however agree in their affording great ftores of refrelhment in the land and fea turtles, in an abundance of moft excellent fifli of feveral forts, and in great numbers of wild fowl. Our having feen but few turtles whilft in the neighbourhood of thefe iflands, is no proof that thefe animals do not refort thither; for in the fea we faw I 1795-] ROUND THE WORLD. 211 faw neither feals nor penguins, yet the fliores were in a manner covered with them ; and in addition to this, the parts of the coaft that were pre- fentedto our view confuted principally of a broken, rugged, rocky fubftance, not eafily accefiible to the fea turtle, which moft commonly, and particularly for the purpofe of depofiting its eggs,T reforts to fandy beaches. With refpect to fifh, we had ample proof of their abundance, and of the eafe with which they are to be taken; but in regard of that great defideratum, frelh water, fome aflert that the iflands afford large ftreams, and even rivers; whilft others ftate them to pof- fefs only a very fcanty portion, or to be nearly deftitute of it. This however is but of little importance, as, from their vicinity to the Cocos, where perpetual fprings feem to water every part of the ifland, veflels ftanding in need of a fupply, may eafily procure a fufficient quantity for all purpofes; and fince we faw in their neighbourhood many whales which we conceived to be of the fpermaceti kind, it is not unlikely that thefe fhores may become places of defirable refort to adventurers engaged in taking thofe animals. Notwithftanding that our vifit did not afford an opportunity for difcovering the moft eligible places to which veflels might repair; it never- thelefs, by afcertaining the actual fituation of the weftern fide of the group, has rendered the P 2 taifc 212 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [FEB. tafk of procuring fuch information more eafy to thofe, who may wifli to benefit by the advantages thefe iflands may be found to furnilh, I 111 all now take my leave of the Gallipagos iflands, and with them alfo of the North Pacific Ocean, in which we had paffed the laft three years. CHAP, 17930 ROUND THE.WORLD. 213 'H CHAPTER V. ifcg'Ctied to the Southward—The Dificovery fpring$ her Main-majh~$8$Kvy makes its Appearan^jj^ Pafs the Iflands of Maffafuero and Juan Fernqn\^ de%—Arrive at Valpafgifo—Vifit St, J ago, the capital of Chili, ^ N taking our final leave of the North Pacific Ocean, 1 could not avoid feeling fome regret in reflecting, that although I was convinced we had veiy effectually delineated its eaftern fhores, yet that the geography of a very large portion of that coaft which gives bounds to its Weftern limits, ftill remained very imperfectly, and indeed almoft intirely, unknown to Europeans. The examination of thefe parts however had not formed an object of the prefent expedition; nor could we, without a complete re- equipment of both veffels in fome eftablifhed ar- fenal, have undertaken a fervice of that nature with any reafonable profpect of fuccefs, had it been within the limits of my commiflion. The length of time we had now been abfent from our native foil, the unpleafant intelligence we had P 3 recently 2it A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [FEB. recently received of the ftate of Europe, and the deflre we had of adding our little ftrength to the means adopted for the reftoration of good order and tranquillity at home, all combined to reconcile us to any difappointment which the thirft for exploring or difcovering new countries might have infpired; and operated to fatisfy our minds as to the neceffity of making the^beft of our way towards thofe regions, where our fervices in another line of duty might poflibly be more acceptable to our country. ' Our progrefs however wds not equal to our withes, for by Wednefday the 11 th at noon, we had only reached the latitude of 2° 3/ fouth, when the vertical inclination of the magnetic needle was obferved to be, Marked End, North face Eaft, Ditto Ditto Weft, Ditto South face Eaft, Ditto Ditto Weft, ou o 0 o 40'' 30 30 20 Mean inclination of the north point, o 30 The variation of the compafs at this time was 7° 45/ eaftwardly. The wind between S. E. and E. S. E. blew a fteady but very gentle breeze, and although the atmofphere was moftly free from clouds, yet "the weather was temperate and pleafant; the thermometer night and day remaining between 75 IPfe? and 1795-] ROUND THE WORLD. 215 and 76. On Thurfday the 12th, in the afternoon, the vertical inclination of the magnetic needle was found to be as under; Marked End, North face Eaft, in 32'' Ditto Ditto Weft, 1 38 Ditto South face Eaft, 1 40 Ditto Ditto Weft, 1 17 Mean inclination of the fouth point, 1 32 The variation of the compafs, 7° 5 0' eaft ward ly. The fame light winds with pleafant weather continued until the following day, when, after about ten hours calm, a breeze fprang up from the S. E. which gradually increafed, and the next day, Friday the 13th at noon, the latitude was obferved to be 4° 15/ fouth, longitude 205 157. The vertical inclination of the marine dipping needle was as follows: Marked End, North face Eaft, 5° 37' Ditto Ditto Weft, 5 32 Ditto South face Eaft, 5 55 Ditto Ditto Weft, 0 3 Mean inclination of the fouth point, 5 46 And the variation of the compafs, 9° 71 eaftwardly. Since our departure from the Gallipagos iflands we had felt the influence of a current fetting to the weftward, though this did not appear to be of great ftrength, as the error of the dead reckoning in longitude to this fituation in the ocean had not increafed more than a degree, P 4 The 2\6 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [FEB. The extremely bad failing of the Chatham had, throughout this voyage, very materially retarded the progrefs of our labours, but ftnce our laft departure from Monterrey the evil feemed to have much increafed; and conAdering that our operations to the fouthward might acquire fome advancement from our preceding her, I informed Mr. Puget, that I fhould make the beft of my way with the Difcovery towards the ifland of Juan Fernandez ; and in the event of his not arriving there before our departure, he was provided with further inllructions, which, with fuch as I might leave for him at that ftation, would be fufficient for his future government. After having made thefe neceflary arrangements, we made all fail in the Difcovery with a pleafant fteady gale from the S. S. E. Many oceanic birds and^ numbers of fifli ftill attended us, and we were now and then fortunate in taking fome of the latter. By the evening the Chatham was a confiderable diftance aftern, and by the next forenoon, Monday the lOth, intirely out of fight from the mall-head ; fo that the diftance we had gained of her in twenty-four hours could not be much fliort of £.ve leagues. Our progrefs now was not only very expeditious, but very pleafant; the wind blew a fteady gale between E. S. E. and S. S. E; the fea abounded with a great variety of fifh, and was remarkably fmooth; 1795*] ROUND THE WORLD. 21J fmooth; the weather, alternately clear and cloudy, with fome flight fhowers of rain, was very temperate and agreeable, the thermometer {landing between 75 and 77- On Saturday in fouth latitude 12° 43', longitude by Arnolds No. 14, - 255° 3 J' 170, - 255 O Kendall's, - 254 54 And by the dead reckoning, continued from the ifland of Cocos, 20o° 32'. In this fituation the vertical inclination of the magnetic needle was, Marked End, North face Eaft, 23° 5' Ditto Ditto Weft, 23 50 Ditto South face Eaft, 23 58 Ditto Ditto Weft, 2 3 18 Mean inclination of the fouth point, 23 23 The variation of the compafs, 4° 55/ eaftwardly. As we advanced the wind decreafed in its force, and gradually inclined to the eaftward and norths- ward of eaft, with nearly the fame pleafant weather. On Thurfday the- 20th, in latitude 190 -44 , longitude 253° 45', the vertical inclination oi the magnetic needle was found to be, Marked End, North face Eaft, 303 2o' Ditto Ditto Weft, 30 17 Ditto \ j South face Eaft,. 35 23 Ditto Ditto Well, 35 15 Mean inclination of the fouth point, 35 49 Variation of the compafs, 24° 51 eaftwardlv. 218 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [lVlARCH? The trade wind during the two fucceeding days was light and variable in the eaftern quarter, and on Sunday the 1 ft of March we feemed to have reached the variable winds, having a frefh breeze, attended with a very heavy fwell from the north-weftward. The obferved latitude at noon was 23° 24', longitude by Arnold's No. 14, 170, Kendall's, SOO" .n*>. And by the dead reckoning, 2 254 b~ 254 53 15 oi 20O 25 The variation of the compafs was 4° eaft- wardly. In the afternoon we again reached the temperate zone; and notwithftanding that fince our departure from the Gailipagos iflands we had paffed under a vertical fun, the height of the mercury in the thermometer had at no time exceeded 77 degrees. The north-weft wind continued with fair pleafant w7eather until the evening of Monday the 2d, when it veered to the north, and became light and variable between the N. N. E. and E. N. E. On Wednefday the 4th, in latitude 20° 45', longitude by Arnold's No. 14, 258° 39/;, we paffed fome drift wood, and we had many birds and fifhes about the fhip. Some good lunar obfervations had been lately procured by fome of the officers, which fliewed the longitude to be about 5' to the weftward of Arnold's No. 14, IS' I 7Q5.J ROUND THE WORLD. <l\ Q 18' to the eaftward of No. 176, and 3' to the eaftward of Kendall's chronometer; the dead reck- <5hing at the fame time-{hewing 204° 10'; the iforiation w&s 4° eaftwardly, and the thermometer fcom 73 to 75. From tbifcntime our progrefs. was much retarded by the wind being adverfe, and varying between fbath' and E. S. E.; the weather however continued fair and pleafant until the morning of Sunday the 8th, when the breeze frefhened, attended by fome fhowers and fmart fqualls; in one of thefe, the heavieft we had experienced for a great length of time, the head of the mainmaft was difcovered to have been very badly fprung, about five feet below the rigging and about feven feet above, and oppofite to its former defective part. The fails on the mainmaft were immediately taken in, and on further examination of the wound, the head of the mail wTas feen to be in a very weak and fhattered condition. No time was loft in relieving it of its weight, by getting every thing down upon deck that was above the top, and the carpenters were immediately employed in preparing two anchor flocks asfi/lies to fupport the malt-head. At noon the obferved latitude was 8°, the longitude 259° 32;; the variation of the compafs 5° 3/ eallerly, and the thermometer from 7°° to 72°. The weather was tolerably favorable for applying fuch remedies to mi III 220 A VOYAGE-OF DISCOVERY [lViARC8> to the defect in the maft as we poffefled ; arid on Monday afternoon, the 9th, it being as well fecured as was in our power, the mizentop-maft was fubftituted for a maintop-maft, that being as much as the weak ftate of the lower maft was capable of fuftaining, and the maintop-gallant- rnaft was got up for a mizen-top-maft. By this unfortunate accident our quantity of canvas was. fo reduced, that our progrefs towards the appointed rendezvous was rendered very flow ; we however made the beft of our way, with winds very variable both in refpect to force and direction, though generally attended with moderate pleafant weather. Without the occurrence of any circumftance worthy of recital, we paffed on until Saturday the 14th, when we found ourfelves in latitude 33°13/, longitude 202° 43', and variation 4° eaflvvardly. At this time, to my utter aftoniihment and fur- prize, I was given to underftand from Mr. Men- zics that the fea fcurvy had made its appearance amongft fome of the crew. This was a circumftance for which it was not eafy to account, The high ftate of health which every individual on board the fliip (myfelf excepted) had appeared to enjoy for fome months before, and the re* frefhments we had been conftantly in the habit of procuring fince our arrival at Monterrey, together with the very pleafant weather that had attended }?Q5.] ROUND THE WORLD. 221 attended us fince that period, all confpired to render the caufe of this unfortunate malady the more inexplicable, efpecially -as there had not been the fmalleft abatement or relaxation in the rneafures I had adopted at the commencement of our voyage; but on the contrary, the moft rigid obfervance had been paid to all thofe circum- fiances, which had been proved from experience to be the happy and effectual means of preferv- ing that moft valuable of all bleflings, health. All thefe precautions and falutary rneafures on this occafion feemed to have loft their effect, for the number of our fcorbutic invalids increafed, and with them alfo my folicitude, which may probably be more eafy to imagine than to de- ficribe. The baneful effects which feldom fail to be confequent on this diforder at fea, filled my mind with apprehenfions for the fafety of our patients ; and having prefumed that we had at length profited fo much by the experience and indefatigable labours of that renowned navigator Captain Cook, as that by due attention we could on a certainty protect feafaring people from the fatal confequences hitherto infeparable, under fimilar circumftances, from this malignant diforder, the difappointment which I felt on this occafion was inexpreiiible. This the fecond inflance in which it had appeared during the voyage, 222 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, voyage. The firft was on our pafiage from Nootka to the Spanifli fettLments in New Albion ; but I was then in fome meafure able to account for its appearance, our people having been for many of the preceding months expofed in a very arduous and fatiguing fervice to moft inclement weather, with only the very fmall portion of re- frefhments we were enabled to procure during that time. Thefe reafons did not now exift^ and I remained in the greateft uncertainty concerning the caufe of its origin, until at length it appeared to have been derived from a fource from whence I leaft expected it: namely, from a difobedience of my pofitive injunctions and orders on the part of the cook, who had been ftrictly forbidden on any account whatever to allow the fkimmings of the boiling falted meat to be eaten by the people. Of this difobedience, the fhip's cook, a fteady, grave, and valuable man, came aft on the quarter deck, and made a voluntary confeffion ; and ftated, that he had not only acted in direct opposition to my repeated injunctions in the prcfent inftance, hut alfo on the former occafion; though he had not been induced at any otlier time during the voyage, by the importunities of the people, to tranfgrefis, in giving to the crew the fkimmings of the boilers to mix with their pulfe, which at both thofe EL* times, 1795"] ROUND THE WORLD. 2,23 times, but particularly the prefent, they had been able to procure in great abundance from their Spanifh friends. On his examination it appeared that he had been lefs fcrupulous in complying with the demands of the people, in confequencc of arguments that had been frequently urged and fup- ported by fome on board, weho feemed to be acquainted with the opinions of the prefldent of the Royal Society, and who ftated, that he conceived that pulfe with any kind of greafe was not only a wholefome food, but alfo very anti- fcorbutic. When the great infipidity of peas or beans alone, without the aid of butter, or other qualifying material, is taken into consideration, it is not much to be wondered at that a deviation from reftrictive rules in thofe refpects fhould have taken place, with people fo totally indifferent and carelels of themfelves as are the generality of feamen. The very unreferved and feeling manner in which the cook acknowledged his tranf- greffion, and the contrition he fhewed for having thus departed from his duty, intitled him to rny full forgivenefs; on which he earneftly afi- fured me, that he would in future attend ftrictly to my directions, and I had reafon to believe that he performed his promife. The cook's name was John Brown, which I {eel a fatisfaction in recording, 224 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, recording, from his having beeen the means of eftablifhing a fact of fo much importance to ma-* ritime perfons, by the two experiments which his honefty compelled him to make known, at the rift of a punifhment for difobedience of orders. All our antifeptics were reforted to, but they did not feem to act fo well as on the former occafion ; and fince the number of fcorbutic patients increafed daily, I had reafon to believe that the pernicious indulgence which had produced the difeafe, had been a very general practice amongft the crew. With the wind blowing a fteady gale, chiefly between N. N. E. and N. W., attended with fair and pleafant weather, we made as much progrefs as could well be expected in our crippled condition. In the courfe of the preceding week we procured feveral very good lunar obfervations x Jo for the longitude, which, when reduced by Arnold's No. 14 to Wednefday the 18th at noon, fhewed their refults to be as follow; The mean of 31 fets taken by Mr. Whidbey, 273° 2b1 5 5* Ditto 18 ditto Mr. Baker, 273 36 48 Ditto 30 ditto Mr. Swaine, 273 32 30 Pit to 37 ditto Mr. Manby, 273 13 37 Ditto '30 ditto Mr. Orchard, 273 17 44 The mean of the whole 136 fets collectively taken Ihewed what I confidered the true, or nearly the true longitude, to he ~ 273 25 30 17Qo,] ROUND THE WORLD; 225 By Arnold's chronometer No. 14, the longitude was - - 273° 5' 30'v 176 ditto 272 7 Kendall's, ditto ditto 273 7 45 From thefe Abatements it fhould feem, that the chronometers were at this time materially gaining on the rate now allowed. The dead reckoning fliewed 280° 1'. The obferved latitude was 33° 50/ fouth, and the variation of the compafs 9° 15' eaftwardly. At day-light in the morning a ftrange fail had been difcovered at a great diftance aftern, or rather upon our weather quarter; fhe was foon found to be drawing up to us, although we had all the fail fet that we were able to carry ; and as fhe appeared to be a brig, little doubt was entertained of her being the Chatham; the opinion of her being our confort was confirmed about four in the afternoon by her anfwering the private fignal, and as fhe had now evidently the advantage of us in point of failing, we did not fhorten fail, but left her to overtake us; which however was not effected until about nine o'clock on Friday forenoon the 20th, when Mr. Puget came on board, and I had the pleafure to under- fland from him, that, like ourfelves, they had had very fine weather ever fince our feparation ; and that on the 2d of March he had met with a large Spanifli merchant fhip named the Rofalie, Vol. VI. Q Antonio m MM 226 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [MARCH, Antonio Jofeph Valaro, matter, laden with cocoa and jefuit's bark from Guayaquil, and bound round cape Horn to Rio de la Plata, and from thence to Cadiz; having quitted the former place on the 20th of the preceding January. The commander of this veffel mentioned the lofs of the fhip Edward of London, which had been unfortunately eaft away at a place called Man- quiva, and that feveral other Britifli veflels, which had been very fuccefsfully employed in the fouthern whale fifhery, had vifited different ports on the coaft of Peru and Chili, where they had been 9 j well received; and that the Englifh were in high eftimation in thofe countries. From this gentleman Mr. Puget became informed, that the anchorage at Juan Fernandez was confidered as very bad and greatly expofed; that a Spanifli frigate had lately been loft there ; and that the ifland afforded but very few refrefhments. On thefe accounts he ftrongly recommended, that in cafe the Chatham flood in need of any articles of naval flores, that flie fhould repair to the port of Valparaifo, as being the moft likely place on the coaft of Chili for procuring fuch fupplies. After Mr. Puget had obtained this information, and exchanged with Senr Valaro fome mutual, ^though trivial marks of civility, they parted, and each veffel purfued her courfe with a pleafant gale at E. N. E., which enabled the Chatham the 1795-] BOUND THE WORLD. 22f the next morning to crofs the fouthern £ropic in. the longitude of 257& 40', about a degree and a half to the eaftward of our track acrofs that line, about forty hours before them. The winds had permitted the Chatham to fleer a more eafterly courfe than we had been enabled to do, wtiich, -with our reduced fate of failing, had contributed to form this early junction, and had obtained me a ■great degree of fkrisfaction, as it had rendered our flopping at Juan^Fernandez intirely unneceffary. The very unferviceable and damaged ftate of our mainmaft demanded, that we fhould without delay repair to fome port more eligible than this ifland was likely to prove for adminiftering to our neceffitieveifpeeially as the head of the maft, in addition to the former accident, had upon a more minute furvey been found to be very rotten. A defect of fo ferious a nature, admitting of no delay in the application of the moft effectual remedy, left no doubt in my mind refpecting the rneafures that it would be moft definable to pur- fue for the accomplifliment of that object. In confequence of the ftrong injunctions contained in my inllructions, not to vifit any of the Spanifli fettlements on this coaft, excepting in the event of the moft abfolute neceflity, I deemed it expedient to fubmit to Mr. Puget, and the principal officers of the Difcovery, the ftate and condition of the maft from the carpenters written Q 2 report, 22& A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [MARCH. report, together with that part of my fecret in- ftructions relative to the matter in queftion. Thefe having been maturely taken into their confideration, they were unanimoufly of opinion, that for the good of His Majefty's fervice intruded to my care and execution, and for the prefervation of His Majefty's fhip, it was indif- penfibly neceflary that the Difcovery fhould immediately repair to the neareft port, for the purpofe of procuring a new mainmaft; fince the difabled one, with every repair that it was pof- fible to give it, would ftill be very inadequate to the fervice that might be demanded of it in thofe boifterous feas, which at this feafon of the year we muft neceflarily expect to encounter in paf- fing round cape Horn. The port of Valparaifo feeming to be the moft likely to fupply our wants, and being the neareft to us, our courfe was directed thither with a frefli northerly breeze, and fair and pleafant weather. At noon the obferved latitude was 33° 55* fouth, the longitude by Arnold's chronometer, No. 14, 17$, Kendall's ditto And by the dead reckoning, And the variation of the compafs was 10° eaft- erly. About four o'clock in the afternoon the ifland PI of 277° 3©> 276. 31 277 32 284 10 1?95-] ROUND THE WORLD. 229 of Maffafuero was feen bearing by compafs E.N. E., 11 or 12 leagues diftant. The wind at this time blowing a frefh breeze rather to eaftward of north, our courfe was directed to the fouthward of this ifland ; but from its diftance, and the approach of night, we were unable to fee much of it. At midnight we were palling within about 4 leagues of its fouthern fide, its centre then bearing by compafs N. 15 W. The latitude of the fhip by the log fince noon was at i this time 34° 3/ fouth, the longitude by Arnold's No. 14, according to the laft rate was 2.78° o0;, and by the lunar obfervations brought forward by No. 14, allowing the fame rate, 279° 1/'; but as the chronometers were evidently gaining, and that very materially, the true longitude of this ifland was deduced from fubfequent obfervations, which ihewed its centre to be in 2/9° 26/ eaft. Its latitude from the preceding and following days obfervations, which with the fhip's run agreed exceedingly well together, was 33° 4Q* fouth. This ifland did not appear to exceed three leagues in circuit: its furface is hilly, rugged, and uneven, and it.appeared to terminate abruptly in rocky cliffs at the water's edge, During the night we had a frefh breeze with fome fqualls, which continued the next morning, Sunday the 2lit, when the jury maintop-fail yard was carried away ; not in confequence of a prefs Q of 230 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, of fail, but like many others of our materials, from being quite worn out and rotten. This was immediately replaced with another, of whofe ftrength and qualities we had not a much better opinion. At about ten in the forenoon the ifland of Juan Fernandez was feen bearing by compafs N. Oo E. The latitude was fliewn by obfervations at noon to be 33° 56' fouth, longitude by Arnold's No. 14, - 280° 16' 30" 1?0, - 279 18 Kendall's, 280 15 By the laft lunar obfervations brought forward by No. 14, 280 37 30 And by the dead reckoning, 286 51 The variation of the compafs at this time 13° eaftwardly. We had fenfibly felt the influence of a current during the laft two days, fetting to the eaftward at the rate of ten miles per day. In this fituation the fouth-weft point of Juan Fernandez, or rather what we fuppofed to be Goat ifland, bore by compafs N. 39 E., at the diftance of 18 miles. In the afternoon we paffed the fouthern fide of Juan Fernandez, at the diftance of about 14 miles, which was too indiftinctly feen to attempt any delineation of its fliores. Its fouth-weft point appeared by our calculations to be fituated in latitude 33° 45' fouth, and longitude corrected by fubfequent obfervations, 281°-8/47// eaft. Its afpect J795'] ROUND THE WORLD. 231 afpect in this point of view was not very inviting; the point terminates in a high fteep bluff, its eaftern part feemed to be lefs elevated, and the whole compofed a group of broken irregular hills, forming altogether as rude and grotefque a fcene as the imagination can well fancy. The wind feeming now to be fixed in the northern quarter, and being to the fouthward of our port, our courfe was directed to regain the parallel of its latitude ; this was accomplifhed by Monday noon, being then by obfervation in latitude 32° 55' fouth, true longitude 285° 30'; the wind was ftill at N. N. W., with fair and pleafant weather; the thermometer from 66 to 68, and the variation of the compafs 1 3° 42; eaft- wardly. Having now got to the northward of Valparaifo, our courfe was fo ordered as to prefer ve that fituation. This however proved to be a very unneceflfary precaution, as towards midnight, in latitude 32° 51'', the wTind, after becoming light and variable, was fuccceded by a frefh breeze at fouth, that feemed to be equally fteady and fixed in its direction as the northerly wind had been before ; fo that we had now again to haul to the fouthward, in order that we might keep to windward of our port, On Tuefday forenoon, the 24th, we gained 3. diftant view of the lofty coaft of Chili to the eaftward. The obferved latitude at noon was Q4 32° 53' 332 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [MARCH, 32° 53' fouth. The land at this time was too far off to diftinguilh any of its particular parts. The wind blew frefh from the fouth, with which we made great progrefs towards the land, and by fun-fet the fhores were diftinctly feen to extend by compafs from N. 50 E. to S. 68 E., about 10 leagues diftant. In this point of view the fea coaft appeared to be compofed of hills of various fhapes and fizes confiderably elevated; behind thefe the interior country rofe to a very lofty range of flupendous mountains wrapped in perpetual fnow. Thefe were the Andes, and when firft feen, which was fhorily after noon, were at the diftance, I fhould imagine, of nearly 40 leagues ; but we had not an opportunity of making the neceffary obfervations for afcertaining that fact. We continued to ftand in fhore until ten at night, when, concluding we were within three or four leagues of the land, we tacked and flood to the W. S. W. under as much fail as we could venture to carry, for the purpofe of fetching, if poffible, to windward of Valparaifo. At two o'clock on Wednefday morning the 25th, we again flood in for the land, which was very indiftinctly feen, owing to a denfe haze in which it was enveloped. The wind at S. S. E. was light, and it was not until about ten in the forenoon that we were in with the fliores ; on which there was no one circumftance that could indicate 1795-J ROUND THE W(JRLD. 233 indicate our being in the nighbourhood of Val- paraifo, nor point out whether we were to the north or fouth of that port, excepting our own reckoning, which fhe wed it to be in the former direction. I did not think it prudent in our crippled fituation to rifk a difappointment, and for that reafon we flood off fhore until an obferva- tion for the latitude could be procured ; which r 7 by the help of a double altitude, was accomplilhed about eleven o'clock, when we bore away in latitude 33° 107 fouth, for a point not far diftant from the place where we expected to find the bay of Valparaifo. At noon the above point, which was the moft northern part of the coaft in fight, and appearing like a fmall rocky ifland, lying clofe to a low or moderately elevated projecting point of land, and terminating at the fea- fide in a round hummock like a bell, bore by afs N. 43 a ruffled rocky iflet lying clofe to the main land, near the fouth point of a fmall fandy bay, being the neareft Ihore, N. 64-E., J J 7 O ' * two or three miles diftant; and the fouthernmoft part of the coaft in fight, S. E. by S. 1 he view hadth us gained of the coa ts of the kingdom of Chili prefented but little to at tract the ftrangers attention, or excite the cunol: parts m mediately on the fea cliffs and rocky precipices, againft which the weftern fwell broke with fhore were compofed of rue 234 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, with unremitting violence. Above thefe cliffs the country was varioufly broken by irregular eminences, fome formed of naked barren rocks, and others confuting of a reddilh fubftance almoft equally unproductive, on wrhich fome verdure appeared here and there, with a few ftunted flirubs and bufhes, fome of which were at great diftances from each other; but nothing like a tree was to be feen, and the landfcape, bounded by the frozen fummits of the lofty Andes towering above the lower barren mountains that de^ fcend from them towards the fea coaft, exhibited an extremely dreary, defolate, and ihhofpitable picture. As we proceeded, a low fteep bluff point of land, beyond that which terminated our northern view of the coaft at noon, was now {een lying in a direction from it, N. 51 E. about three ' leagues diftant, and which proved to be the weftern point of entrance into Valparaifo bay. Our attention was now directed in quell of the " great rock or fmall ifland" defcribed by Sir Richard Hawkins in 1593, as lying " a league <s or better to the fouth of, and a good mark and " fure iign of, the port." At firft I was at a lofs to difcover which of the two noticed at noon was Sir Richard's rock, as both are much %further from the bay of Valparaifo than he de- fcribes them to be; but as we advanced, I had no doubt 1795-] ROUND THE WORLD. 235 doubt of the moft northern being the " great " rock or fmall ifland." This lies upwards of three leagues, in a direction S. 51 W. from the point of Angels, which is the weft point of Valparaifo bay, and is rendered ftill more confpi- cuous for pointing out the port, by being fituated clofe to a very projecting point called by the Spaniards Pr QuraumilJa, from whence the fhores of the main land to the fouthward take a direction fome degrees to the eaftward of fouth, and thofe to the northward, as before flated, towards Valparaifo. It is alfo the fouth-weftern point of a fpacious open bay bounded by a fandy beach, where anchorage might probably be found, but which muft be much expofed; and as feveral rocks were obferved lying at a very little diftance from the fhore, the chance is that the bottom may be compofed of the fame materials. On the north-eaft fide of this bay a houfe and fome fmaller habitations near it were feen, and the country in its neighbourhood appeared to be lefs J O XX fteril and forbidding than thofe parts to which We were oppofite in the morning. Its furface, though unequal, was lefs broken ; and although it could not boaft of a luxuriant vegetatipn, yet the naked, rugged precipices, that formed a barrier againft the ocean on each fide of the bay, were no longer the general characteriftic of the interior country, which prefented a furface of fome A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY MARCH, 236 fome foil, on whole withered herbage both flocks of fheep and herds of cattle were feen gra^zjng, on the fides of the hills. Along thefe fhores, which feemed to behold, we paffed at the diftance of from half a mile to half a league, without difcovering any danger O ' - o J o which is not fufficiently confpicuous to be avoided ; and, with the affiftance of a fine fouth - erly breeze, by two in the afternoon we were abreaft of the point of Angels, off which fome rocks extend to the diftance of about half a cable's length. Thefe we paffed at about twice that diftance, without gaining foundings. In failing round this point, the country fuddenly opened upon us, and prefented a fcene to which we had long been intire ftrangers; the whole of the bay was now exhibited to our view termir nated by a fandy beach; near the upper margin of which, and on the fides of the adjacent hills was feen the town of Valparaifo ; and although from its fituation it could not boaft of much pleafantnefs, yet in this point of view it appeared to be neat, of confiderable extent, and built with regularity; the churches rofe above the other buildings, and the whole being defended by feveral forts, all confpired at once to announce, that we were again approaching towards the. civilized world. In the bay.and near to the fhore rode feveral 1 - • .(l'.,U.;,,ilnl,T,(./:!r.,lll « Sketch lakm on die Spot byJ.S J. Heath Sculp. The TO WN of VALPARAISO or, the COAST'of CHILI London Puitelud. Jl.n ifi?/s, /„. R. B,/mu,h .v,.„. Jjoml .,>.../. /.;,,„,„,b ./;,//. ,/„// .■;.,,■./,.„/,;,.,„„ ,;„,,.„„„.,,.,.//„„. 795.] Round the world. 237 fail of merchant fliips, engaged in their occupations; to and from which boats were paf- fing and re-pafling to the fhore, where a very lively fcene wTas exhibited of men and cattle; the whole exhibiting that fort of commercial inter corufee bet ween diftant countries, that the arts and civilization can alone carry into effect. This pleafing profpect of at length drawing towards our native country, after fo long an abfence amongft the rude, yet hofpitable, nations of the earth, wras however not unmixed with forebodings of a painful nature, left the intelligence refpecting the diltracted ftate of Europe, which we r o x ? had but too much reafon to apprehend would meet us on vifiting thefe fhores, fhould be of a more melancholy complexion than we had anticipated. The wind from the fouthward blowing directly out of the bay, obliged us to make fome trips for the purpofe of reaching a proper fituation for anchoring, which was accompliflied about three o'clock in 10 fathoms water, muddy bottom. An officer was immediately difpatched to inform the governor of ©ur arrival, of the occafion of our vifit, and of the alfiftance we required. A fhip that had been feen in the offing in the morning anchored foon after us, and, together with the Difcovery and Chatham, made ten fail of 240 A VOYAGE OF* DISCOVERY [MARCH, complied ; the meffenger was then difpatched, and we were given to underftand that a reply might be expected on the Saturday or Sunday following; in the mean time there was no re- ftraint on the officers vifiting the town; the markets were open to us to obtain fuch immediate refrefhments as we might require ; and we were equally at liberty to recruit our flock of water and of fuel. On thefe agreeable communications being made, the garrifon was falutcd with thirteen guns, and on this compliment being equally returned, I waited upon the governor, whilft the veffels were mooring by the bower anchors in a N. N. E. and S. S. W. direction, a cable each way; the fouthern anchor in ten fathoms, the northern in fixteen fathoms water, on a bottom of ftiff muddy clay. The point of Angels bearing by compafs N. 35 W. diftant about a mile ; the fainting fort on the weftern fide of the bay, N. 53 W. about half that diftance; the gover^ nor's houfe in another fort, S. 86 W. about three cables diftant; a rocky point running off from the town, being the neareft fhore, S. 7 W. one cable and a half diftant; a redoubt on a hill, S. 5 E.; a confpicuous white church in the village of Almandrel, S. 65 E.; the eafteramoft fort*. N. 83 E.; a remarkably lofty, rugged, fnowy mountain, terminating partly in a flat, and partly JH in. 179^.] ROUND THE WORLD. 241 in a peaked fummit, being a part of the Andes, N. 6l E.; the eaft point of the bay, N. 5/ E. about a league diftant; a more diftant point, N. 17 E. three leagues off; and the northernmoft part of the coaft in fight, N. 6 W. On Thurfday morning the 26th, accompanied by Mr. Puget and feveral of the officers of both veflels, I paid my formal vifit to governor Alava, and had the pleafure of receiving every mark of polite and hofpitable attention from him, with fepeated affurances that nothing fhould be wanting on his part to relieve our wants, or to render Valparaifo as pleafant and agreeable to us as its circumftances would allow. Thefe ceremonies being concluded we returned to the veflels, where our vifit wras fhortly repaid by the governor, attended by moft of the principal officers and inhabitants of the town ; and on their coming on board they were faluted wTith thirteen guns. From all thefe gentlemen we received the moft prefling intreaties to vifit their families; which civilities we did not tail to accept, exprefling our thanks for the cordiality with which they had been fo obligingly made. The day was pleafantly fpent amongft our new acquaintance, who readily aflifled me in making arrangements for procuring a fupply of the abundant refrefhments which this luxuriant country- Vol, VI. R afforded, 242 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, afforded. In doing this, my firft care and principal object was, immediately to adopt the moft efficacious rneafures that could be devifed, for eradicating the inveterate fcorbutic diforder which now prevailed, and which had greatly increafed amongft the crews of both veflels. The number of fcorbutic patients rendered incapable of attending to their duty on board the Difcovery, amounted to feventeen. On board the Chatham their number was not fo great, though the dif- eafe was making a rapid progrefs; and I learned from Mr. Puget, that on his making inquiry into the caufe of it, he had found that the fame pernicious practice had been indulged in on board the Chatham, which had taken place on board the Difcovery during our late long and tedious paffage, that of permitting the fat fkimmings of the boiling fait meat to be eaten by the people with their pulfe, and to be ufed for frying their filh ; but it did not appear that this unwholefome indulgence had been carried to fuch an extent on board the Chatham, as it had been on board the Difcovery. In confequence of this information, I deemed it expedient that the v/hole crews of both veffels fhould, in addition to the regular allowance of frefh beef and greens, and new foft bread from the fhore, be daily ferved with a quantity of grapes, apples, and onions ; and! had foon the 3 79^-] ROUND THE WORLD. 243 the happinefs of finding, that this falutary diet was attended with the defired effect of intirely eradicating the difeafe. Whilft we were waiting for the return of the courier difpatched to his excellency the Prefident* my time was not unprofitably employed; for I embraced that opportunity to vifit the feveral warehoufes, and by fo doing obtained a complete knowledge of the quality of the flores and provi- fions they were capable of affording us. When this was done, I made the neceffary arrangements for receiving them on board the inftant we fhould be at liberty to accept them. In the courfe of niy inquiries I had the mortification to learn, that there was not a fpar, either at Valparaifo, or in the country within our reach, of a fize fufficient to be converted into a maft, for the purpofe of replacing our difabled one on board the Difcovery. This was a matter of very ferious concern; but as a new maft could not here be procured, the only expedient we had the power of reforting to, was to ufe our beft endeavours to repair the old one. This I purpofed to do by turning the maft end for end, by which means the moft defective parts would fall below the deck; where, by the addition of the fifhes we had on board by way of further fecurity, I was in hopes, that with great care and attention to the performance of the work, we fhould be able to render it fufficiently R 2 ftrong 244 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARC!*, ftrong to anfwer the purpofe of carrying the veffel to England. The town of Valparaifo not affording any taverns or places for the reception and accommodation of ftrangers, we were obliged to intrude on the hofpitality of its worthy inhabitants for fuch conveniences when we vifited the fhore. Thefe civilities were conferred in fo handfome a. manner as at once to relieve us from any idea of our being intruders; the pleafure that every one manifefted in entertaining us, completely removed every fentiment excepting that of gratitude on our parts, for the repeated acts of kind- nefs they fo very obligingly bellowed. Amongft the firft to whom we were indebted in thefe re- fpects was Don Juan Barrara, the collector of the king's duties, and Don Praeta, the captain of the port. We firft became known to thefe gentlemen in their public capacity, and they had the goodnefs to introduce us to many others of their friends, all of whom treated us with the greateft politenefs, attention, and hofpitality; but as their houfes were not more than fufficiently large for the accommodation of their own refpective fami^ lies, a lodging on fhore was not to be eafily procured. The very indifferent ftate of my health at this time however, required that I fhould avail myfelf of this opportunity of fleeping on fhore, and taking as much of the exercife of the coun- try 1795'3 ROUND THE WORLD.- 245 try as my ftrength would permit; for this reafon I was induced to apply to the governor, to allot apartments for myfelf and a few of the. officers in fome of the public buildings of the town, with which he very oblijpngly complied; and in the event of our equipment in this port meeting with the approbation of his Exq^ency the Prefident of Chili, of which there was little doubt, the Cafa de Exercicios was appointed for our reception and refidence. T<his building had been erected fome years ago as a chapel of eafe, for the purpofe of accommodating the country inhabitants who came into the town on Sunday^to attend divine fervice, but who frequently could not find room in the churches ; and it had like wife been appropriated for the penitential acknowledgments of the women. Our time on board was bufily employed in making every thing ready to proceed in the fervice we had to perform, tant we mould ^nt for fo doing. »ahlv tr ne in receive the ianction of the prefid On Saturday evening the 28th, agreeably to our calculations, the courier returned, and I had the fatisfaction to receive from his Excellency Senr ""enar, prefident and Don Ambrofio Higgji captain general ot t moft ample confirmai which had been mad together with a letter m of all the liberal offers to us by Governor Alava; :onta:m I 3 the molt polite con grata- 246 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, congratulations on ouriiaving thus far fafely accomplished the great object of our expedition, and having at length arrived in a country where nothing fhould be wanting within the reach of his power to fupply, that could in any way contribute to the reftoration of our health, adminifter to our future comforts, or tend to re-equip the, t^effels, and repair the damages which they had fuftained. Thefe obliging and friendly offers were further accompanied by a communication to governor x\lava, ftating, that if myfelf and fome of the principal officers fhould be inclined to vifit the capital, we had his Excellency's permif- fion to do fo; and in the event of our undertaking a journey to St. Jago, the governor was re- quelled by the Prefident to employ his good offices, in feeing that we were properly provided for the excurfion. I embraced the earlieft opportunity to return my moft grateful acknowledgments to the Prefident, for his extreme politenefs and liberality towards us; and I loft no time in fetting hard to work on the various fervices which now demanded our attention. My firft and principal object wTas to get out the main-maft ; for this purpofe, on Monday morning the 30th, the fhip was moved nearer in fhore, and moored in four fathoms, to infure more effectually fmooth water for performing that operation. After this was accom- 1795-] ROUND THE WORLD. 24? accompliflied, on the following morning, the mall was hauled up on to the beach between Valparaifo and the village of Almandrel, where a tent was erected, and at the governor's exprefs defire a guard of marines from the Difcovery was, pofted there, to prevent thefts, or other improper conduct on the part of the inhabitants, as fome of the pinnace's covering had been flolen the preceding night. Whether this application from the governor proceeded from a fentiment of delicacy towards us, or whether he confidered that our marines J&ewJd be more adequate to the protection of our property than the Spanifli foldiers, is not eafy to decide; but it appeared to be a very unprecedented and extraordinary circumftance, that a guard fhould here be requefted by the governor from an Englifli man of war, to do duty in the dominions of his Catholic majefty. The marines however were landed with a ferjeant, and planted as centinels, with pofitive orders from me, on no account to hurt any of the inhabitants, even though they fhould be detected in the very adl of thieving ; but to fecure their -perfons, that they might be dealt with according to their own laws. On the maft being examined we had the mortification to find, that the damage it had fuf- tained was greater than we had fufpected, as it R 4 was 248 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MARCH, was fprung nearly two thirds through, a little below the hounds. Some Spanifli carpenters, in addition to our own, were immediately fet to work upon it; and as both the veffels required much caulking, the artificers of the country were alfo hired for this fervice. Our fail-makers were employed in repairing the old and making fome new fails; the coopers in fetting up cafks for the reception of flour, and repairing thofe made ufe of for water ; and the armourer was making the neceffary iron work for the repair and fecurity of the mainmaft and other purpofes, whilft thofe remaining on board were varioufly employed about the rigging, and in the hold for the reception of a quantity of fhingle ballaft. Not being yet pofitively determined whether our route home fhould be round cape Horn, or through the ftraits of Magellan, and our cables and hawfers being worn to the laft extremity, a fupply of each fort was ordered to be made for both veflels, according to the dimenfions we required; for although wTe had found an abundance of fmall white cordage in the wTarehoufes, there were no cables ; there being little demand at Valparaifo for fuch flores; nor was there any tarred rope of any de- fcription, the cordage from four inches in circumference downwards, being all white rope, fuch as the Spanifli trading veffels in thefe feas ufe for running rigging, Thefe feveral fervices were WORLD. &4jJ r train of execution ; was the anniverfary of and the com- 1795.] ROUND TH were all put into a regu but as the following day pur departure from Falmou mencement of the fifth year of our labours, all work was fufpended, and the people as ufual had the day to themfelves. They were ail ferved with a double allowance of grog, and an excellent dinner, compofed of the various good things that this country fo abundantly afforded. All our operations were cheerfully refumed the next morning, Wednefday, April the 1 ft; and on my vifiting the artificers employed on the mail, I had the mortification to underftand, that on framing the heel of the malt for the purpofe of its becoming the head, that end, near to the place where the cheeks were to be fixed on to it, was found to be extremely decayed, and fcarcely in a better ftate than the other extremity. It was however, though rotten, not fprung, and having no refource but that of applying the beft remedy in our poffeffion, two flout cheeks made of our fpare anchor flocks, together writh two ftrong fifkes, were fixed to the maft below the partners of the main deck, and continued up to its head; and even with thefe additional fecu- rities, it would be but a crippled flick to depend upon: yet as we had no alternative, we were compelled to make the beft fliift we could, which would neceiTarily oblige us to be particularly J O x J cautious 250 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, cautious, and to prefs it as little as poffible in our pafiage homewards. The obfervatory, with the requifite inftru- ments, was fent on fhore, and, as ufual, committed to the charge of Mr. Whidbey, for the purpofe of making fuch obfervations as were now become neceffary for afcertaining the rates and errors of the chronometers, and for finding the latitude and longitude of Valparaifo. Having made this and fome other arrangements for car- o rying into effect the re-equipment of the veffels, I determined to avail myfelf of the obliging per- miffion of the prefident to vifit the capital of Chili, and ordered preparations to be made for an excurfion to St. Jago. Our party wTas to confift of Mr. Puget and Lieutenant Johnftone of the Chatham, and Lieutenants Baker and Swaine, and Mr. Menzies of the Difcovery. I had already made known to governor Alava my intention of vifiting St. Jago, who very obligingly gave directions, as Valparaifo did not afford any travelling carriages, that we fhould be provided with a proper number of horfes, and mules for the expedition; the former for our riding, and the latter for carrying our luggage. I now7 had the pleafure of finding that his Excellency the Prefident, together wi#i his polite invitation to the capital, had alfo fent two dragoons from St. Jago, who were natives of Ireland, J795«] ROUND THE WORLD. 251 land, in his Catholic Majefty's fervice, for the purpofe of being our guides and interpreters, and for rendering us every other fervice that we might require on the journey. Thefe people had been long in New Spain ; they feemed to be highly delighted with the charge now intrufted to their care, and not a little proud of the power and confequence that was attached to it; for, as on this occafion they bore the immediate order of the Captain-general, they had authority to do many acts from which, in the capacity of dragoons only, they were prohibited. This power* amongft other things, permitted them to take any horfe or horfes whatfoever, whether in the flables or at pafture, for the purpofe of facilitating the fervice on which they were employed; but as our vifit to St. Jago was purely for recreation, I would not permit any compulfory rneafures to be reforted to for our accommodation; and a fufficient number of horfes were procured, at twelve dollars each, for the journey thither, and back again to Valparaifo. Every thing being prepared, we fet out early on Friday rning the 3d, with a numerous cavalcade; for, notwithftanding this country had been fettled a great length of time, we were given to underftand that we fhould find no accommodation on the road between thefe two principal towns of the kingdom of Chili, excepting I M 152 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, ing fuch as might be met with in the villages through which we might pafs or occafionally flop at, and thefe would confift only of a fhed or uninhabited empty houfe. A fupply of pro virions might be depended upon, but there were neither beds, feats, tables, nor any fort of convenient or neceffary articles or utenfils to prepare them for our table; all thefe, with our cook, we were obliged to take with us; and, left we fhould be {lifappointed of the promifed flielter, we were provided with a tent, which was packed in convenient travelling trunks, and carried on the backs of the mules, according to the ufual method of travelling in this country. I could not, how7- ever, help expreffing my concern that the poor beafts fhould be fo much loaded; and I objected to the weight propofed to be carried, efpecially the poles of the tent, which 1 fufpected would prove too inconvenient a burthen for them to move under; indeed this circumftance produced fome altercation between the muleteers and the dragoons; but as there was no appeal againft the injunctions of the latter, the muleteers and myfelf were obliged to acquiefce, and twelve mules were completely loaded with our tent and baggage. The horfes that had been hired we thought rather too fmall, and not of fufficient ftrength ; for, befides the weight of their rider, they had each a moft enormous heavy faddle to carry; W.u±leaoander del:-from a Sketch taken on the Spot hyJ.Sylce. The Village ofAZMANim^L zn. die Bay ^'VALPARAI5 O witUa, diftant View ofdw A.N11ES. . Zon^vi PidteJtcdMcyiftyS.tyR.Edwatds TVe.wBoixdSb.J.Ed^anisIhUMaMiG.RoMnsoh Jutermwter Jx'oi WAleaxuider del: from. cvSk The Village ofALMANB, 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 253 carry ; but our Irifli guides undertook to anfwer for their abilities, and the event proved that their judgment was to be depended upon. - From the town of Valparaifo, which is fituated on a narrow tract of very uneyen ground at the foot of the fteep rocky precipices, whicft/ at no great diftance from the water-fide, compofe the fhores, there is no pafs immediately into the country but for foot paffengers; for the main road which leads into the interior parts of the country, V approaches the fea-fhore through the village of Almandrel, whither our route was neceffarily directed. This village is pleafantly fituated, and is on a more extenfive border of low land than the town of Valparaifo ; but it is bounded in a fimilar way behind, by fteep and nearly barren hills. The valleys and plains, however, in its immediate neighbourhood, are fertile, and large gardens were both cultivated for profit, and decorated for amufement. From Almandrel a tolerably good, though rather fteep, road had been made, in a zigzag way, over a ridge of hills, of confiderable extent and elevation, the fummit of which occupied us full two hours in reaching. The old road between thefe two towns being a very bad one, and dangerous to pafs, his /excellency had determined that a new and more eligible line of road fhould be made; and for the more immediate convenience of the inhabitants of 254 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRILS of St. Jago and Valparaifo, this new road, which is about fixteen yards wide, had been begun from" each place, and by that means an eafier and more pleafant communication with the adjacent country had already been afforded to the inhabitants of eaip of thefe towns than they had hitherto enjoyed. We were informed by our guides, that the wtiole of the new road was not yet finifhed, but was at that time in a progreflive ftate towards completion, and that we fhould meet the people employed upon it as we pro-: ceeded. Under the prefent circumftances of this road* and whilft the dry feafon may continue, it is doubtlefs as commodious a pafs as could have been well defigned; but, from the loofenefs of the foil, and the acclivity of the hills along the fides of which it is carried, it appeared to us that it would be liable to great injury in the winter feafon; which, we were told* is frequently fub- ject to extremely heavy rains, that muft necef- farily rufli with great impetuofity down the fides of this fteep mountainous country. Having gained the top of the road, which paffes over a depreffed part of that ridge of lofty hills which bind the fea coaft, we arrived in a fpa- cious plain, nearly oh a level with the fummit of the hills we had now left behind us. This plain extended to a coniiderable diftance, in a north- ¥j$$£. - eafterly, 1795.] ROUND THE WOULD. I 255 eafterly, eafterly, and fouth-eaft direction, where1' it finilhed at the bafe of another ridge of hills, beyond which were feen other ranges varioufly diverfified, and riling in fucceffion one after another; until our view was terminated by the hoary head of the lofty Andes, wrapped in undiA folving fnow. Had the intervening plain, and the furrounding rifing hills, exhibited the verdant productions of nature, affifted by the hand of man, the landfcape would have been beautiful in the extreme, but this was not the cafe ; and the apparent flerility of the wTide wTafte, that now encompafled us on every fide, rendered that abundant fupply of good things which we had been daily accuftomed to fee in the market of Valparaifo, a circumftance not eafily to be accounted for. Inftead of numerous villages, fertile paftures, and fields in high cultivation, which I had expected to find, after pafling over the hills near the fea fhore, an extenfive open defert now appeared before us, deftitiate of wood, and nearly fo of verdure; as a few ftunted trees only, and fome grovelling flirubs, were fcattered at a great diftance from each other; and, excepting near the banks of the flu^ifh rills of water that crept through the plain, vegetation was fcarcely perceptible; whilft the few mifcrablc inhabitants that exifted on its furface, lived in wretched little hovels,. 1S@ A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRILS hovels, or huts, made principally of mud. The frames of thefe dwellings, of which we had feen about a dozen, were rudely constructed of wood, and plaftered over with a thick coating of mud; this ferved as a wall, whilft the unfmoothed furface of the ground formed the floor, and little or ho covering appeared on the roof; the whole feeming fcarcely to afford a fhade againft the fcorching rays of the fun; for againft wind and rain thefe humble manfions could afford no fhelter. * At one of thefe mean abodes, about fifteen miles from Valparaifo, we flopped to dine. The infide of the dwelling more forcibly difplayed the poverty of its inhabitants than had been exhibited by its external appearance; for it hardly contained the moft common neceffaries to the exiftence of human life; a dirty table, a flool, a wretched bed in one corner, and five or fix croffes, comprehended all its furniture; yet it was not without fome decorations of a religious nature; and what ftill more attracted our notice, thofe who refided in it not only indulged in the luxury of taking the mattee, which is an infufion of an herb imported from Paraguay, but to our furprize, the very few utenfils they pofieffed for their moft common domeftic purpofes wTere chiefly made of filver. The land about thefe miferable hovels was, like the wide furrounding wafte, 1795-] ROUND THE WORLD/ 257 wafte, in a perfect ftate of nature, without the veftige of any labour having been ever beftowed upon it, not even in the cultivation of a garden* The few wretched people w7ho inhabit this dreary wild, feemed to rely intirely on the bountiful hand of Providence for their daily fubfiftence: and to pais away their lives, without entertaining a wifh to procure the leaft addition to their hap* pinefs or comfort, at the expence of any exeftfauE Indolence and fuperftition appeared to influence the <whole of their conduct, whtochjiwas marked ^fiikb/ttJiireater degree of mlihefe and thofe characteriftics that diftifitglAfli the very loweft order of focietj^ than I had before witneffed amongft any people who had ever had the advanr-* tage of liviag amoflgft thofe connected with the civilized world. The mules which carried our luggage were on the road before us, making the beft of their way to the place where we purpofed to reft for the night, excepting one fumpter mule, wnfeh had accompanied us with fome articles of provifions and provender for the day ; and by adding to our own llores the fupplies which thefe hovels were able to furnilh, confifting of poultry, eggs, potatoes, onions, and fruit, we made an excellent repaft, whilft our horfes were alfo refrelhed, and prepared to proceed with us over this extenfive defert. Having now travelled fome miles be- Vol. VI. S yond lij 258 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [APRIL, yond the extent to which the new road from Valparaifo had been carried, we found the old one infinitely lefs commodious, and the difference between the two was very great indeed. In- ftead of the fmooth rdgmlar furface over wTMbk we had paffed from Valparaifo along the new road, this could only be confidered ak a beaten track, fometimes leadin B -at QUE or through, deep and irregular ravines and gitMies, deftctute of the appearance of any labour haviog ever been applied to reduce the inequalities of its furface, or to remove any of thofe impediments which confrliiiP ally interrupted our travelling. The making of the new road had doubrjfefi been a work of great labour ; and to a people who are not very induftrioufly inclined, and who are all bigotted to former practices and original habits, it is no winder that the manifeft advantages that muft refult to the inhabitants of the country from his Excellency's wife undertaking, fhould be J O7 overlooked, or rather not feen by them; and that the execution of his judicious plan fhould have deprived him, aniongft the lower orders of the r ' o people, of much of his popularity. For as the thought had firft originated with the Prefident, rather than, not indulge a contradictory fpirit, which our guides informed us had fhewn itfelf amongft the bulk of the people, the inhabitants feemed to be more willing to facrifice their own future 1795-] ROUND THE WORLD. 259 future intereft and comfort by opriofing this beneficial defign, than to do any thing which misthtf O J o o promote its iucccfs. Little variation occurred, in the fcenery already defcribed, in our journey in the afternoon, as we faw few objects to attract our attention until towards the evening, when we arrived at the village d£<Cafa Blanco, or, the white houfe. Here our guides propofedfwe fhould reft for the night* and after travelling twenty-eight miles in a way to whifah we were little aceuftom'dd, we all gladly agreed to the meafure. Cafa Blanco is a hamlet, confifting of a neat £hlirch and about forty houfes in its neighbourhood; which> nrfith fome inclofures of land under1 cultivation, formed a pleafing contraft to the barren naked country through which our day's journey had.been directed. The principal perfon of the" village appeaufcd to be the curate, who having been made acquainted with our approach/ was prepared to meet us, and gave us a like hof- pitable reception with that which had been fo generally fliewn by all the good people of this country with whom we had hitherto met. In the exercife of his humanity and good wilhes, our reverend friend feemed to be much hurt that he had fo little to beftow; but as we fortunately did not ftand much in need of his affiftance, excepting in one refpect, that of providing us with S 2 a lodging, 200 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, a lodging, we foon relieved him fiom his ern- barraflment. This gentleman immediately fur- niihed us with a houfe, over whiejh he held fome authority; a manfion precijfejy.of the defcription which, we had beein given to underhand, we fhould find on the road for our accommodation* This houfes if the ftr^^lure could be entitled to fuch ajnat&e, was fituated n^asjjy in the ceitjfcrj$ of the village, and was fo ru/dtly formed, that it could hardly be confidered as the work of a cfeis lized people. Its walls-were made of dried pieces of earth cut fquare into the ihape of bricks, which had been) laid on each other wheh in a wet ftate, and plaftered over with thejftme fubftanee; but by drying unequally the plafterehad fallen off in many places. Its in fide was open like a barn, and confifted of but one apartment, which contained nothing but our baggage, that had arrived fome hours before us; and had the weather been rainy, it would have afforded us but very imperfect flicker. The floor was no other than the ground in its natural, unleveUed ftate; but though it was not remarkable for its cleanlinefs, it was fpacious, and in that refpect more fuitable to the purpofes of our party, than the tent wre had brought with us. As it, however, was totally deftitute of all kinds of furniture, we were obliged to refort to our neighbours for fuch temporary conveniences as we fhould want, which they very readily 1795'] ROUND THE WORLD. 2&fc readily fujpjdied : and whi-lft our fupper was preparing we vifited the inhabitants in the village,- by whom we were received with the nioll cl^r- ^*a|jfajbiltey; particularly by the younger parts of the fex, amongft whom we noticed feveral feces which, even by thefide of our fair country- Wi&flnen, might-jhave been confidered as pretty, had not the intolearaye nafty cuftom of paining both red and whit£, deftroyed the natural delicacy $f[1|heir oopipfex^on, and impaired the effect of t^agsecabie allcmblage of their features. Their affiduky to pleafe was however very engagiiig^ and the evening paffed fo pleafantly, that the fatigue of the day's journey was, I believe, intircly forgotten by moft of us. The houfes of this village being all w£^-wafhed,',igave it a neat appearance, which, as we approached, impreffed us with a belief that we fhould find thefe dwellings infinitely fuperior to the wretched hovels we had paffed in the courfe of the day; but we had the mortification to difcover, on accepting the inyitations of the principal people, that the, fame want of cleanlinefs pre-vailed, and that wretchednefs, indolence, and fuperftition was exhibited here in as great a degree, as amongft the cottagers on the fun-parched defert. The only difference that we could difcern, between thofe people and the inhabitants of Cafa Blanco, canfifted in the fuperiority of the external habi- S 3 liments 262 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, liments of the latter, who had evidently drefielP themfelv.es in their beft attire for the occafion. Our time was agreeably engaged until flipper was ferved, when we were favoured with the company of every inhabitant, I believe, belonging to the village ; the principal perfons partook of our repaft, whilft the others feemed to be equally gratified in the opportunity that was afforded them, of fatisfying their curiofity with a fcene fo novel and unexpected in their country. The glafs went cheerfully round, and our new friends did not retire until a late hour. Our blankets were then fpread, but the night did not pafs fo pleafantly as the evening had promifed ; for our reft was moft tormentingly difturbed by the vermin, which had been generated by the former filth of our habitation, and which now took revenge upon us ftrangers, for having endeavoured to difpoffefs them of their ftrong holds by fweep- ing out the place. When we arofe in the morning we found ourfelves but little reffelhed, owing to the great annoyance we had fuffered from myriads of bugs and fleas. Early the next morning we again fet out, and foon arrived at the foot of that range of hills that gives bounds to the plain on which Cafa Blanco is fituated. Thefe hills appeared to rife with a quicker afcent, and to a greater height above the plain we were then quitting, than the firft ridge had feemingly done from the l$X}5.] ROUND THE WORLD. 203 the fea fide at Almandrel. The new road here- led acrofs the lefs elevated part of the ridge, not- wkhrftanciHig: which, it was fo fteep that it was neeeffary to cut the road in the fame zigzag diagonal way as before, and in its courfe from the bafe to the fummit of the hills, it made twenty- five returns or angles; r On this intermediate part of the new road the labourers were at work ; and we underftood from Cftir ^guides, that as a fufficient number of people could not be procured to carry the whole of the defign into execution at once, his Excellency the . Bs§fident (having the comfort, convenience, and intereft of the inhabitants much at heart) had, in order to facilitate the intercourfe between thefe two great towns, ordered the moft difficult and dangerous parts of the new line of road to be firft made paffable and commodious. The road here was of the fame width, and equally well made, with the part before defcribed; but as the foil confuted of the fame loofe fandy materials, it muft neceffarily be liable in the winter feafon. to the fame difadvantage I have before flated, from the defcending torrents of rain. We had here for the firft time an opportunity of feeing the peafantry of the country in a labouring capacity, and we could not help remark- Lctivitv in the performance of *^A be equalled by the humble means S 4 264 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [ APRIL* means they poffefled for carrying it into execution. There were about fifty men at wcpjfc with common pick-axes and fhovels ; and to fupply the place of wheel-barrows for the removal of the earth from the higher to the lower fide of the road, the hide of an ox was ipread on the ground, and when as much earth was thrown upon it as would require the ftrength of two men to remove, the corners of the hide were drawn together by each of them, and in that ftate dragged to the depreffed fide of the road, and emptied where requifite, to preferve a gentle flope in the breadth ; or elfe difcharged over the brink, and fent down the fide of the hill. The rocky parts, which were frequently met with, were blowm up with gunpowder; and the fragments, which fometimes were very large, inftead of being beaten into fmall pieces for the purpofe of making a more folid foundation for the palling of carriages, wxre all moved to the lower fide of the road, and, like the earth, thrown from thence dowm the hill. By this injudicious practice the earth from the higher fide, which in moft places .might have been contrived to have made a parapet along the brink, was not only carried down by thefe maffy fabricks of rock, but in many places the ground was torn up by them •in their pafiage dowrn; and as it appeared to us that the brink was to be left in this open ragged ftate, J795-J ROUBHfclTHE WORLD. 265 ftate, the defcending rains muft foon caufe gullies that will injure the road, and do it confider- able damage. The fuperintendents, however, feemed to have been aware that the torrents of water, defcending from the upper fide of the hill above where the line of road paffes, might have the effect in rainy weather of walhing away the loofe materials of which the road is compofed : for a channel was cut along the fide of the road neareft the mountain to receive fuch water, and to carry it down its inclined plane; but it appeared to us to be too fmall, and too much like a gutter to anfwer the purpofe for which it was intended. The lower fide, or brink, had neither bank of earth, nor rail of wood, as a fence; nor did we underftand that any fort of protection was defigned to be made, the want of which gave it a very unfiniihed naked appearance, and in fome places, where the lower fide paffed over a fteep part of the hill, or over perpendicular precipices formed by the rock, it appeared to be dangerous in a high degree ; for in the night, or in the event of a horfe taking fright, or falling little chance ot tne an rider efcaping unhurt. Indeed it did not appear to us to be prudent to venture too near to this fide in the d£y time, as the roadtiad already crumbled down the If 266 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [APRIL, the hill, and had fallen into deep holes in many places. The labourers, I was informed, received their provifions, and a rial and an half per day, which according to the rate at which we received the dollar, (viz.) at three fhillings and nine-pence each, makes the amount of their daily wages about feven-pence fterling, and the value of their food cannot exqeed a groat. Thefe circumftances made it appear to us very extraordinary, that in a country where the expence of labour did not exceed eleven pence per day, more perfons were not employed in agriculture, and other rural improvements ; efpecially as the foil and climate feemed to be well adapted for cultivation, and the fituation of the country infured a ready market for every kind of produce; of which, there could be no doubt, an abundance would eafily be procured, to reward the labours of induftry. By the introduction of a greater proportion of the common neceffaries of life, and by the obtaining a few of its comforts, it is reafonable to fuppofe that a general fpirit for exertion would be diffufed amongft the lower orders of the people, who might be taught, by_ encouragement, to prefer a life of diligence and activity to that fu- pinenefs which at prefent difgraces the larger part of the cpmniumty. The fubmifiive obedi ence 1?95.] ROUND THE WORLD. 26/ ence that is here paid to every regulation or re- ftraint impofed by the priefts, gave us reafon to believe that it might be within their power to infift that each individual fhould employ himfelf, or be employed by others, a certain number of hours each day, either in his own garden, or in the general hufbandry of the country; for which certain rewards, proportionate to the exertion, fhould be affigned as an incentive to a life of induftry. This would foon produce an inclination for employment, which would not only promote the general happinefs of the people, but would be the means of fecuring to every one, in proportion to his diligence, the comforts that w&uld certainly arife from this change in the prefent ceconomy of their lives. Inftcad of the univerfal apathy to work that feemed to pervade the whole of the labouring clafs, who were dragged to their employment, without any felf- impulfe, like an ox to the yoke, their daily labour would be undertaken with alacrity ; and, in looking forward to the advantages that would refult from their exertjfen, they might foon be Simulated to prefer the habits of induftry to thofe of fupinenefs and indolence. On reaching the top of this range of hills, we could plainly difcern the neat looking village of Cafa Blanco, which added greatly to the appearance of the country we had left behind. The road 268 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [APRIL, road forward to St. Jago defcends on the north eaft fide of thefe hills, but it had not fo many angles or returns in it as that by which we had afcended on the other fide, becaufe the intermediate vatiey, between this range of hills and the mountains before us which we had yet to pafs, was confiderably more elevated from the level of the fea, than the plain on which Cafa Blanco is fituated. After breakfaft, we proceeded on our journey along a very narrow path, which, without a guide, might have been eafily miftaken, as there were many-fimilar to it, in various directions, through a forefl of fmall trees, that continued for about four miles. About four in the afternoon we flopped at a mud hovel, at the diftance of nearly five miles from the mountain of Praow. The country we had paffed through pofleffed little to entertain, and lefs to intereft, the traveller ;' its general character was fimilar to that over which we had paffed before, excfef$ing that it was more wooded, without any objects to vary the fcene ; and being much fatigued with our new mode of conveyance, and the heat of the- weather, the advice of the dragoons to make this fyot our refting place for the night, was willingly acceded to by all parties. Some lamb and poultry were foon procured for dinner, which was drened by our cook, and both proved to be very good. 1795-] ROUND THE WORLD. 2()C} good. Our table was fpread under)the fhade of f&sbe vines clofe to the hovel, where we wete attended by a> few peafants brought thither by 4sriofity, who conducted thensfeives very re-5 fpectfuiJy. We retired very early to our blankets, -which, a&vbefore, were fpread in the hovel on the bateigjfcsund. By the recommendation of our guides, we were on horfeback at thuee the next mornings that we might avoid the intcnfe hdat^to which, tfla^pftated, wcfliould.be eipoftd in afcendiiig the lofty fummits of Praow ; we aixromplifhtad j jc this before fiin-rife by the new road, which made t|ai^y-twdjpafles or returns on its fide, cut out in a manner fimilar to the other parts of it ovec winch we had already travelled. In afcendictg at this eariyiliow4 we found the air fo very cool,, that great coats js>x w'arnser clotHiic wofti£<J;Have^ been very acceptable ; and w7e all were of opi- nion, that the confederation which had tempted oer guides to recommend our travellingthiosr iarly,was more to Saiure a refting place the next evening anaongft fome of their particular friends, than to avoid the heat; a meafure on which, however, much of our comforts might very pof- fifcly depend. From the top of PraowT the landfcape was very interefting. To the eaftward ft retched the extensive valley in which St. Jago is fituated, and4 which 11 2?0 A VOYAGE 0^ DISCOVERY [APRIL, which was terminated by the lofty ft-fipendous Andes^ whofe furrimits exhibit perpetual winter.' In the oppofite direction the view of the country was not lefs worthy of our attention; a great number of mud hovels were now difcerned, that had before efcaped our notice as we had travelled along, and we now underftood that the valley through which we had juft paffed was confider- ably more inhabited, efpecially near Praow, than thofe parts of the country nearer to Valparaifo. The people are chiefly pdafabtry, whofe principal employment is to take care of fome oxen and fheep that feed in the vicinity of theidGbveral huts.- We defcended Praow to the north-eaft, by fewer paffes than we had afcended on its oppofite fide, as the valley in which St. Jago is built is much higher than the other two acrofs which we had travelled; the general character of the country being that of an inclined plane riling towards St. Jago, although its furface is broken by the ridges of mountains before defcribed. The road ftill continued in an eaftern direction, and was here as well made and as broad as the turnpike roads in England. On either fide were feveral fmall orchards, and a few plantations with fome indifferent pafture land, on which cattle were feen grazing under the fliade of a few fcat- tered trees; but the general want of cultivation gave the face of the country a barren and wild appear- 179^.] ROUND THE WORLD. 2? 1 appearance, deftitute of any feature that could indicate our approaching fo large and populous that of St. Jago: onlv people we faw were two or three travellers, and a fqw muleteers. We flopped to breakfaft about fifteen miles feom the capital, whofe lofty fpires were now plainly difcerned, towxring above the numerous houfes which the city appeared to contain. Notwithftanding our prefent vicinity to fo large a town, we found no other place lor the accommodation ot travellers than the mud hovel, where we were entertained in the fame way as we had been before; and where, like the others at which we had flopped, there was no fign of any improvement whatever, either in the building, or in any other refpect that might add to the comfort of life; the fame want of cleanlinefs, and wretched condition which I have before had occafion to remark, continued here to debafe the character of the inhabitants, who, notwithftanding their external appearance of wretchednefs and mifery, wore neverthelefs a contented look, and together with a cheerful countenance pof- feffed a difpofition to oblige that was extremely grateful to our feelings, though their exceflive indolence and inactivity created in us a mixed fentiment of pity and reproach. In addition to pphes we had our journey, we 2?2 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [aPRLL5 we here procured fome excellent water melons of luxuriant growth and in high perfection, which Were very refrefhing and acceptable. Having fmifhed our br4akfaft we again refumed our journey; the road was level, broad, and firm, and we'ted not travelled far, before on each fide of it were feen plantations and vineyards,tn each of which&'neat white houfe was generally fituated at a little diftance from the road. The appearance of cultivation and fertility in thefe low lands, when eontrafted with the ftupendous fum- mits of the Andes, produced a moft agreeable effect, and rendered this part of our journey very pleafant and entertaining. After a fmart ride of nearly two hours, we arrived at a houfe about a mile from the capital, where fatigue, and a journey of ninety miles, made it neceflary that we fhould halt; not only for the purpofe of taking fome reft and refrelhment, but alfo that we might equip ourfelves for the vifit of ceremony we were about to make to the Captain General. From hence I difpatched one of the dragoons who had attended us with a letter to his Excellency, announcing our arrival in the vicinity of the capital, and flating, that with his permiffion we would do ourfelves the honor of paying our refpects to him at the palace in the evening; and I gave further directions to the dragoon, to procure and fend from St. Jago, carriages fufficient to convey thither 1795v] 'ROUND THE WORLD. 27$, thither the wtt party. In the ri^afi time our dinner was provided and ferved, and it was our intention us foon ,a-stthat fhouid be over to drefs ourfelves in all our bell-apparel, that we might make as uniform an appearance on ,tfeis occafion, as our fevejra] flocks ol clothing would enable us to do ; for the extreme length of the yojtege had deprived moft of the party of the principal parts of their wardrobe, aj$f we had fcareely a coat or hat that was fit for common ufe, much lefs for an occafion like this, In the midft of our endeavours to make as fmart an appearance as we could contrive, the dragoon returned, accompanied by an officer from the Captain General, whom he fent for the purpofe of compliment* ing us and congratulating us on our arrival, O GO ' and of defiring that we would immediately repair to the palace, on horfes which he had fent for the purpofe of conveying us in a fuitable manner td Jbhe capital. Although it was by no means my intention to have made fo public an entry as this arrangement of the Prefident's would neceffarily expofe us to, yet it appeared to me that we could not decline it without, giving umbrage, or perhaps offence ; we therefore endeavoured to equip ourfelves in the bell manner we were able, arid in doing fo we referved our uniforms, which were extremely rotten and unfit for. any fervice on horfieback, for Vol. VI. T the 274 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [APRIL, the purpofe of appearing in on our vifit of ceremony to his Excellency. : The frefh horfes which had been fent from St. Jago, we had imagined to be like thofe which had brought us from Valpa- j»aifo, but, to our great aftonilhment, thofe which had now arrived from the Prefident under the care and directions of another officer, feemed to be very high-bred animals; and were all richly caparifoned with fine faddles and bridles, and faddle cloths richly decorated, and fringed with gold and filver lace, according very ill with the drefs in which we were under the neceffity of appearing. All my former objections to a public entry were now greatly increafed, and I became very defirous that we might be permitted to vifit St. Jago in a more private manner; but on representing this to the officers, inftead of acceding to. the wifhes of myfelf and party, whips and fpurs were inftantly produced, that nothing might be wanting to complete our appearance on horfie- back in every particular. The ufe of the fpurs however was generally declined by us all, left fome embarraffment or mifchance fhould take place from their being unintentionally applied, whilft our thoughts were engaged by the new objects that were likely to attract our attention as .we paffed through the ftreets of the city. Trivial as this circumftance may appear, yet to the officer who had charge of this efcort it was a matter 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 275 a matter of the firft importance. He not only ufedall his eloquence to perfuadeus to wear the fpurs, but even expoftulated with us on the impropriety of appearing without them, and the un-» reafonablenefs of our declining fo effential a part of drefs; all his intreaties were not, however, fufficient to overcome our objections, and to his great mortification we mounted without them, and proceeded towards the capital, with a true military flep, attended by the two officers, and our former guides the dragoons. The inconvenience we experienced on firft Letting out, from being equipped in this very extraordinary manner, was greatly increafed by the crowds of people who had affembled to fee our cavalcade pafs along, in which they were fully gratified by the flownefs of our pace, until we arrived at the palace; where, on our alighting we were received by a guard* which was turned out on the occafion, and were conducted in form to the audience chamber. Here we were received by his Excellency Don Ambrofio Higgins de Vallenar, with that fort of unaffected welcome in which neither ceremony nor flattery appeared, . and which amply repaid us for all the little fuf- ferings we had endured in the courfe of our journey. This polite and cordial reception we had indeed anticipated from the reports we had received, before our departure frorrr Valparaifo, and "*ftf T 2 afterwards 276 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, afterwards on the road to St. Jago. His Excellency's character, not only in refpect of his great attention and urbanity to ftrangers, but of Jris parental care and conftant folicitude for the general happinefs and comfort of all the people who lived under his government, were the con^ flant topics of our converfation ; and it is not to. be wondered at if, on this occafion, we became inftantly impreffed with the juftice which report had done to his virtues, by his congratulations and hearty welcome to the capital of Chili, which, were delivered by him in our own language with a fluency that greatly excited our aftonifhment, when we were informed by his Excellency, that he had now been refident in New Spain twenty- four years, during which time very few opportunities had occurred to him for fpeaking Englifh, We now learned from Don Ambrofio himfelf that he was a native of Ireland, from whence he had been abfent upwards of forty years, that at an early period of his life he had entered into the Englifh army ; but not obtaining in that fervice the promotion he had expected, he had embraced more advantageous offers on the continent. His firft commiflion in the fervice of his Catholic Majefty was in the corps of engineers, from whence he exchanged into the dragoons, and was foon raifed to the rank of lieutenant-colonel; in this fituation he ferved for fome time in Old, Spain5 1795-J ROUND THE WORLD. 277 Spain, and afterwards in this country, until he obtained the diftinguilhed poft of military commander on the frontiers of Chili, and governor of Conception. . In this fervice he was employed twelve years, and had the good fortune, by the conftant exercife of his humanity, and an uniform attention to the comforts of the native inhabitants of the country, fo to fubdue the natural fiercenefs of their difpofitions, as to induce them to fubmit to th^government of Spain. For this effential fervice he was promoted about the year 1783 to the exalted ftation he now fills; fince which time he has been honoured with repeated marks of approbation and diftinction by his Catholic Majefty, who has been pleafed to confer upon him the orders of Charles the Third, and St. James, with the rank of lieutenant-general in the Spanifli army. A room of confiderable dimenfions. was allotted to me in the palace, and a large apartment adjoining to it was appropriated to the ufe of Mr. Puget and the reft of the officers, in which were a fufficient number of fmall beds for the party, covered with thin gauze, as a protection againft the mufquitos. The two dragoons who had attended us from Valparaifo were now appointed to be ufeful to us in the capacity of fervants ; and every other matter was attended to, ordered, and fettled, that evening, wdiich could in any way X 3 contribute m 2$& A VOYAGE/OP DISCOVERY [APRIL, contribute to render our flay at St. Jago> and out rcfidence in the palace, as pleafant as polftble. Nor did the politenefs of the Prefident end here, for, previoufly to the fupper being announced, he introduced to our acquaintance Don Ramon de Rofas, the corrigidor, and Don Francis Caf- fada, a captain of dragoons, who received the Prefident's directions taufe his utmoft endeavours in fliewing us every thing in St. j$go worthy the attention of ftrangers, and to make us known to the principal families refiding in the city. The fupper, confifting of a great variety of hot dilhes, was ferved up on filver, at which no perfon was prefent but Don Ambrofio the Prefident, Don Ramon de Rofas and ourfelves; all fort of ceremony was now laid afide, and agreeably to the repeated intreaties of his Excellency, we confidered and felt ourfelves as much at home as if we had been partaking a repaft in England with our moft intimate acquaintances. The firft part of our converfation was chiefly engroffed by inquiries refpecting our late difcoveries on the north- weft coaft of America. In this I was very happy to learn, that no part of our conduct, or tranf- actions with any of the fubjects of his Catholic . Majeliy, appeared to have given the leaft caufe for jealoufy, or complaint againft our little community ; and I was alfo much gratified by the very handfome compliments that were paid to myfelf 17Q5.]' ROUND TBS WORLD/ 270" myfelf and officerspon the' ftg&gfsful labours of our voyage. Afterlife curf$fftjr &f the Prefident, and Don Ramon v^£s fomewha,tSatisfied on this fubject,'efhe former, with great -MdigriatJoh-j recounted a circurrift^fcce which£fpGa-rinot forbear' to mention, aithoughf'being a matjfer only of con- verfati&ftV it may polfibly appear too extraneous. At -the- fimd whenGrhis Excellency was the governor at Conception, and during-the late American^ FreBchyandtS^ an enterprizei was mMitated and -.planned by the Court ,of Gre;at Britain -againft that? place, which was the'fieuhe feat of goverrimentiiL the kingdom of Chili. WherL Sir Edward Hughes;failed with his fleet; from England to the Eaft Indies-, it was generally -believed ^-that he wasto%arve-acted only in defence of out eilaoliflimentSi ki that quarter, but before" that ad&ii ralnad reached the firftplace: ofehis'deftination'inr the Eafl ThdiesKhe Prefident ft&fefi to us, thia/dhe^-Wai in poffeiiion of a copy of Sir-Edward Hughe§-s• order sy which had been- tranfmitted- to hfWfi&i Conception from Old Spain, by- w^hich-ddeurfieWs he- blcaMe-informed, that' an attack - wa^-purpbfed't^be" made by that fl&e%'rfrom the Eaft-1rMies" o&^the Spanifli fettle- ments in South America, and that Conception Was the pi ace againft,: which the enterprize would firft be^temptedV In confequence of this in^ I «iBtge^i^S%enerat alarm took place througti^fc; T 4 all Hli 2S0. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [ARRIL, all the cftablifhmeMl on the coaft ; the fortifications, whio&ihad been much neglected, wrere re-> paired and ftre^gthened; ^number of troops attached to e^g|t were greatly augmented; and eji^y preparati6}n was made for the pfti^fe of actingi^i^ipufly on the defenfive; and to this c^gumftance^lpBe his ExtgJteney attributed the abandoning^of the defign, tha&had been concerted by the Bftfi^Clj^j^et. ';*$|pii Soon'aftgr'/jiipper was eii(te$,r a number of la- rli *& made their appearance at the iffon gracing- that protected j|fee window of the palace, beg9 ging our a^pfapce of nofe^feys, and requesting tfet wc would: jj$Ji the reftriifjjheir party, affem- lgje4 at a little Jftftance from, the palace ; biji£:&$ kf^ughtvif$^i$Id be more refpectful to pay our compliments; to his Excell&ffcy in the amshence- room^which efefmality-f^jasiffi^ed for :thedfs^ ^fi^ffig^orning, before we fliould vifit any one elfe in the city, we declined th^^obliging invi- H^ijO)! for the prefent, with^ji&<$iiife of acknowledging their civility the following.day*fj$fflfggj£- J);We did not retire until an early hour, \vfM|J we found our beds tolerably good, but we could not help being m^cfedifgufted at the infuffera^lfe uncleanlinefs oft our apartments; the floors of ^ifliich, but more particularly t.hat appointed for tjaj $ej§dence of the officers, were cover<£4cwitn iil§fe and jjirt. Application was inftantly made M to 1.795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 281 to the dragoons, to procure us fome bruflies or brooms in order to fweep it out, but, to our great mortification, they told us that fuch things were not in common ufe at St. Jago ; fo that the only-alleviation we could obtain, was that of water to fprinkle the dull, which was fo thick in the officers' apartment, that it would rather hbfer required a fhovel than a brufh for its removal. Every Sunday morning the Prefident ha& a levee, which is ufually attended by the military people, and the principal inhabitants of the city and furrounding country. For the purpofe of being formally introduced at this levee, we made ourfelves as fmart as the exhaufted ftate of our rcfpective wardrobes would allowr, and then repaired to the audience-chamber; this room, which is fpacious, was neatly, but not extravagantly, fur^fifhed ; the anti-chamber was large in p*j<)portion, and the entrance to each was from the ground, through large folding doors. In the anti-chamber were the portraits of the feveral prefidents of QfcHi, from the firft eftablifhment of the Spanifli authority in this part of the country, to the present governor, whofe portrait was one of the number. The infide walls ofrtbefe rooms were covefc^d with glazed ^feltSj^refembling; thofe from Floll'^n^ rfor about eight or ten feet from the floor, which had a goodlefTeet, and was a great relief to the dead white platter of the re- Draining >S2 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [APRILy maining part up to the ceiling. At the upper end of the audience-room was a fmall flage, raifed a few feet from the floor, upon which was placed the chair of ftate, ornamented with a canopy of red damaik, and decorated with the portraits of their Catholic Majefties, which were placed on each fide of the Prefident's chair. The levee was attended by about one hundred and twenty per^ns, the greater part of whom appeared in the regimentals of the eftabliflied militia of the country; and, in fuch a well dreffed company,, our thread-bare uniforms fuffered much by companion. I had, however, taken the precaution to apologize to his Excellency for the reduced ftate of our apparel, and he did not fail, on introducing us to his ! friends, to enumerate the hardfhips we had undergone, to ftate the length X o 7 o of time we had bees?: abfent from the civilized world, and to concfelde, on every occafion, with fome: ^panegyric on the laborious undefetMMng in which we had been fo Ions; engaged. This very polite and friendly attention foon relieved us. fromiijaoy embarraffmentwhich, at firft, it was natural we fliould feel in being thus unexpectedly throwen into a circle of gentfemen, who made a very fplendid appearance, and who feemed to have great pride in conforming to th#iafliiorr of the day;, and the etiquette of court parade.. From all the gentlemen, to whom we were made; known* 17Q5,] ROUND THE WOELD. ^ / 2S3 known, wTe received the moft flattering congratulations on our arrival at St. Jago, accompanied by very friendly invitations to their houfes ; and every one appeared to be anxious to make our time palspas pleafantiy as the circumftances of the^place would permit. The fpecimen we had already received from our very hofpitable friends at Valparaifo, left us no room to doubt thefin- cerity of thefe ftrangers, whofe kind foiicitude to gratify our inclinations on every trivial occafion, Was infinitely greater than could reafonablv Jo J have been expected. After we had feverally paid our compliments to the Prefident, the levee broke up, and we followed the reft of the party, accompanied by Don Ramon and Captain Caf- fada, to the levee of the Bilhop of Chili, which always commences on the conclufion of the Pre- iident's. Here we were again received with the fame politenefs and affability wiiich had marked our reception at Don Ambrofio's. The Bilhop is addrefled by the title of Illnflrifjima, and the palace in which he con$a-ntly refides, in point of magnificence and fliow, exceeded, in a great degree, every houfe in St. Jago, not excepting the Prefidefit's, to whom the Bilhop is the next per- fon in rank and confequence. The rooms here were not fo large as thofe of the royal palace, but they were fuffieiently capacious and we]! proportioned; the walls were hung with yejlggr filk 284 a Voyage of discovery [April/ filk, feftooned at the top, the furniture was rather gaudy than elegant, yet every object befpokef the richnefs and exalted ftation of the illuftrious' owner. The Bilhop was drolled in a loofe clerical garment of purple filk, buttoned clofe, with a fort of apron that extended round his waift, and reached below his knees. This part of his drefs, I was given to underftand, is commonly worn in Spain by the dignitaries of the church. The fame perfons who had attended the levee of his Excellency, repaired with us to the palace of the Bilhop ; but their deportment here, in point of refpect, far exceeded that which had been fhewn to the Prefident. Many priefts attended the levee, one of whom always conducted to the Bilhop the perfon who was to be introduced, who when fufficiently near, bent one knee, and received in that fubmiffive attitude the benediction of the church. On this occafion, the Bifliop with one hand made the figure of a crofs over the head of the perfon introduced, whilft he prefented a ring which he wore on a finger of the other, to receive an additional homage, paid by touching it with the lips, as in the act of killing. This ceremony was not re- •fl'ficted to a few, for we did not perceive any one in the group that did not go through it; and, as I had made it a conflant rule to conform, on all occafions, to the innocent manners and cuf- ili toms 3 7 Q5.] ROUND THE WORLD. 285 toms of whatever country we might chance to vifit, I fhould not have hefitated to perform the like ceremony on our introduction, had the ilighteft hint been given, either by Don Ramon or Captain Caffada, that it would be expected from us ; but, as their £lence left us completely to our own feelings, we each of us limply made our bow, which appeared to be as well accepted, and to receive as gracious a benediction, as if we had adopted the other cuftomary formality. The Bilhop made many very pertinent inquiries refpecting the countries we had vifited, and feemed to have great pleafure in the little information we were able to afford him ; for at this time, we had hot an interpreter with us, who fo perfectly comprehended what we deferibed in KK^lifti as to make a faithful tranflation of it to the Prelate ; and I do not recollect that I ever felt more real regret, than on this occafion, that I did not fufficiently underftand the Spanifli language to hold a convcrfation with this apparently intelligent gentleman, who was pleafed to embrace every opportunity of bellowing fome encomium pn our late refearches, and to offer his congratulations on our having fo happily concluded them. From the Bilhop's palace we were conducted, by our friends, to the houfes of the judges and great officers of ftate, in all of which we experienced the fame cordiality arid friendlinels, and received 2SO A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [APRIL, received the fame preffing intreaties to vifit their families as had uniformly been offered by every perfon with whom we had become acquainted fince our firft arrival in this hofpitable country. About two o'clock we returned to the palace, where we found the Prefident waiting our arrival for dinner, which was ferved up on a plain deal ill conftrufted table, by no means correfponding. with the magnificence of the dinner fervice, which was entirely compofed of filver. The company confifted of the Prefident, Don Ramon de Rofas, Captain Caffada, and ourfelves; and the converfation turned chiefly on the late labours of our furvey, and the difcoveries we had made on the coaft of North-Weft America,which were repeatedly honoured with the molt flattering commendations from the Captain General, who, appeared to be extremely interefted in the events wiiich we related. After drinking coffee, which is always brought in as foon as the cloth is removed, every one retired to his private apartment, a cuftom which fo generally prevails in this kingdom, that, between the hours of three in the afternoon and fix in the evening, no perfon is {een in the ftreets, the fliops are fhut up, and the fame flill- nefs prevails as if it were actually night. Accuf- tomed as we had hitherto been to a life of con- ftant anxiety, and to be fatisfied with little reft, we- 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 287 we were at firft greatly at a lofs to difcover how we fliould employ the hours which were thus dedicated to fleep by the fociety in which we were now living; but the exercife of the morning, the heat of the weather, the want of occupation, and the natural inclination to fleep after a hearty meal, foon reconciled us to the practice of the country; and we all indulged in afcfla, (or afternoon s nap) and enjoyed it I believe full as much as the moft voluptuous Spaniard iri the capital. Accompanied by our new friends, we were introduced in the evening to the family of Senr Cotappas, a Spanifh merchant of eohfiderable . eminence. A defcription of this gentleman's manfion will ferve to convey an idea of the manner in which all the houfes in the city of St. Jago are built. This, like moft of the principal habitations, formed a quadrangle, inclofing an open area, or court-yard, of about thirty yards fquare, one fide of which is a dead wall that runs arallel to the ftreet; and, as none of the houfes nore than one flory in height, this wall to- f are m tally obfeures every appearance of the buildings within. The entrance into the fore-court from the ftreet, was through a gateway in this wall, to which the houfe fronted, occupying the oppofite fide, whilft the wings, or two remaining fides of $88 A VOYAGE <0F: DISCOVERY [APRIL„ of the fquare to the right and left, were, as is moft commonly the cafe, divided into offices for fervants, and fleeping apartments. Serir Cotap- pas's houfe confifted of an anti-chamber, a large kind of dining-parlour, and bed-chamber. All the rooms wTere very fpacious, the principal one meafured about fixty feet in length, twenty-five feet in breadth, and I fhould think the height of it was about equal to the breadth. This room was fuperbly, or rather finely, furnifhed.; from the ceiling were fufpended two glafs luftres, or chandeliers ; and on the walls were fome paintings, the fubjects of which were taken from the facred writings ; at each end of the room were large folding doors. The company we here met were divided into two parties ; the ladies were feated on cufhions on one fide of the room, and the gentlemen were fitting oppofite to them on chairs, amongft whom we were inftantly furnifhed with feats, The entertainments of the evening confifted in a concert and ball, in both of which the ladies had the principal fliare, and feemed to take great pleafure in excelling in both ,the accomplifhments of mufic and dancing. The whole of the concert was performed by the ladies ; one led the band on the piano-forte, whilft the others filled up. the accompaniments on violins, flutes., and the. harp ; the whole was extremely 1705.] ROUND THE WORLD. 280 tremely well conducted, and afforded us a mu- fical treat, to which we had been long intire ftrangers. We fhould have been extremely happy to have aviled ourfelves of the preffing intreaties of Sen1' Cotappas to join with the ladies in dancing, but as their country dances appeared to be very difficult, and as no one amongft us could recollect the figures of any of thofe we had been ac* cuftomed to in England, we were under the mortification of acknowledging our ignorance, and declining the intended civility of the mafter of the houfe. From this difappoiiitment in the pleafures of the evening we were* however, in fome meafure relieved, by fome of the ladies, who had retired from the dance, fending us a meffage, requefting we would join their party on the cufhions ; with this we inftantly complied, and confidered ourfelves greatly indebted for this mark of condefcenfion, as it was departing from the eftabliflied rules of their fociety on fuch oc- cafions. The generality of the ladies in St. Jago are not wanting in perfonal charms, and moft of thofe we had the pleafure of meeting this evening might rather be confidered handfome than otherways; they are, in general, brunettes, with expreffive black eyes, and regular features; but a want of that neatnefs, which is fo much valued amongft Englifhmem and fo much the pride of Vol. VL U my 29'0 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL/ my fait countrywomen, was confpicuous in many particulars, efpecially in the total neglect of their teeth, which are fuffered to become intolerably dirty. This inattention was not only in a very high degree offenfive, but it appeared to us incompatible with the pains' that feemed to have been taken in the decoration of their perfons; for, at this affembly, they were all fuperbly dreffed, agreeably to the fafhion of the country. The moft firigular part of their drefs was a fort of bell-hooped petticoat, that reached from the waift to juft below the knees, though fome of them did not wear them quite fo low; immediately beneath this external part of their drefs appeared the under linen garment, the bottom of which, as well as the taffels of their garters, was fringed with gold lace. The general deportment of the ladies was lively and unreferved ; and they very obligingly loft no opportunity of relieving us from every little embarraffment, to which the difadvantages we laboured under, in not understanding their language, frequently expofed us; and J verily believe that there were few occaftons, during the whole of our voyage, in which our want of knowledge of the Spanifli language was more fincerely regretted ; as it deprived us of the plea-* fure of enjoying the lively fallies of wit wrhich wTe had reafon to believe occurred very often in the- female 3 705.] ROUND THE WORLD. 2QI female circles, by the laughter and applaufe that their converfation fo frequently oecafipned. This was certainly an evidence of their natural ingenuity, though it did not amount to a proof of their minds having been duly cultivated; and it is not without concern that I ftate, from the tef- timony of their own countrymen, that the education of the female part of the fociety in St* Jago is fo fcahdaloufly neglected, as to confine the knowledge of reading and writing to a few; of the ladies only. Some of them had the good- nefs to give us their names in writing, that we might the more eafily difcover and learn the true pronunciation of them ; thefe were always written in large letters; but I do not mean from this circumftance, or from our having received but few of their names, to infer, that the education of the fex is as much confined as was reprefented to us; yet the circumftance of their being totally unacquainted with any other language than the dialect of the Spanilh fpoken at St. Jago, evinced that their education had been very little attended to, Excepting the inftances which are unhappily to be found amongft the fex in England, the female part of the fociety poflefs a characteriftic delicacy of fentiment and expreffion ; but here fuch a degree of levity is obfervable in the conduct of the ladies, not only in their converfation, but in dancing and on other occafion*, as to give U 2 a ftranger <l§f& A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [a#KLL^ a ftranger, and particularly an Engltfliman, no reafon to entertain a verydexaked opinion of their virtue, but rather to imprefs him with notions prejudicial to the female character. I muft, however, in juftice to all tbdfe ladksi with whom I had the honour of being acquainted, and they were very many, beg leave to ftate, that I difcovered nothing that could impeach the fidelity of the married women, nor attaint the character of the fingle ladies; notwithftanding that the manners and cuftoms of the country in whidh they live fanction a freedom of fpeeih, and a faifri* liarity of behaviour, that tended, in our fapinion, to abridge the fex of a portion of thatfcefpect from the men, of which, as Englishmen, we $id not like to fee them deprived. To them we were indebted for the moft civil and obliging atteritten that e&tt be imagined during our refidence in the capital; go i * their doors were always open to receive us; their houfes were in a manner our home's p their entertainments were formed for the fole purpofe of affording us amufement; and no endeavour was omitted that could, in any way, contribute to the pleafure we received in mixing with imir fociety. Nor were we lefs indebted to all thofe gentlemen to whom we became knowny who exercifed the utmoft of their powers to render our flay at St. Jago agreeable, by fhewing us evtiry thing worthy of our notice, and by communicating every information 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD/ 293 formation that was either ufefui or entertaining. We were under particular obligations to Don Ramon de Rofas and Captain Caffada, for their unremitted attention, and goodnefs in introducing us to all the refpectable families rending in St. Jago. The time that we remained in the capital of Chili, paffed nearly in the fame manner as I have already defcribed, without the occurrence of any incidents to require a particular relation; for this reafon I fhall pafs over the feveral pleafant en- gagen^ents we had in the different families during our refidence in this lxofpitable place, and proceed to give fome account of the public builduags in the city, and to detail fuch other in- fipfl^iation as we were enabled to collect,, and which, probably, may not be unacceptable to my readers. In doing this, however, I fhall not pledge piyrfelf for the authenticity of the facts, nor the precifion of the circumftances I am about to relate, becaufe I was not fu^ciently acquainted with the Spanifli language to put the queftip^s that I wifhed to have refolved in a proper way myfelf, nor to acquire the information I fought for, in fo correct a manner as is defirable in inquiries of this nature ; in addition to this difad- vantage, I found it almoft impoffible, on a variety of occafionsj to make our interpreters, tranf- iate our queftions on fubjects on which they U 3 were 2g4 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY* [APRIL, were not converfant, fo as to obtain, from thofe who were able to reply to them, fatisfactory an- fwers. The city of St. Jago, including the detached houfes, or fuburbs, I fhould fuppofe, cannot be. lefs than three or four "miles in circumference ; but this is only by eftimation, as I did not con- verfe with any one who could, or did, anfwer me this queftion; but as the ftreets run at right angles to each other, and fome of them are little fhort of a mile in length, this computation cannot be very erroneous. The city is well fupplied with water from the river Mapocho, which has its fource in the mountains, at fome diftance from the capital, and is made to branch off in fuch a manner, on its approaching the town, as to pafs through the principal ftreets. This, in a hot cli- iiqate, cannot but be fuppofed a very great luxury, and as conducing extremely to the health of the inhabitants; but the fame want of cleanlinefs that pervades the infides of the houfes, here ma- nifefted itfelf in the open air, and inftead of this ft ream becoming the means by which the ftreets might have been kept conftantly fweet, it is rendered a moft infufferable nuifance, by the prodigious quantity of filth which is emptied into it from the houfes. As no care was taken that a fufficiency of water fhould be brought down |I carry the foil and naftinefs away, nor to remove Jt£95-1 ' HOUND TH© WORLD. 2g5 niove it in places where it formed obftructions to the current, and produced the moft offenfive exhalations; and as the ftreets, which are narrow, are partially paved with fmall flones in the middle, and with only a few flag-ftones for foot paf- fengers on the fides, our walking about the town was, from thefe circumftances, rendered /Very un- pieafant. The river before mentioned, from whence the city is fupplied with water* overflowed its banks, in the month of June, 1783, in confequence of an inundation, and ruflied down towards St. Jago, with fuch impetuous fury, that it demoliflicd almoft all the dams that defended tfre country, did confiderable damage in the town, and filled every individual with fear and confternation left a fecond inundation fhould fucceed ; in which cafe, from the extremely defencelefs ftate in which thefe torrents had left the city, there was great reafon to apprehend that not a Angle edificp would be left ftanding in the capital. The pre- fent Captain General gave irnmeidiate orders tjiat plans fhould be made by the moft able and experienced engineers and architefls, for the purpofe of replacing a wall, or dam, fhat had principally defended the city frprn the river, and which had been deftroyed, at this time, by the inundating force of its waters; but, notwithftanding that the defign he had in view was for U 4 the 81B i 296 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [ APRIL, the protection of St. Jago and the furrounding country, and to infure the fafety, interefts, and comforts of the inhabitants, yet, a popular party was made againft him, as in the inftance of the new road, which he projected, and is now carrying into execution between this place and Valparaifo, and, after experiencing much fatigue, perplexity, and expence, it was not until the month of January, 1792, that he effected his purpofe. fo far, as to begin the excavation for the new wall, or dam, againft the fide of the river. This will long remain a monument of his pa- triotifm and perfeverance, and he has now the gratification of hearing many of thofe who had before oppofed the undertaking, acknowledge this valuable defign to be an effectual protection againft any future danger. The wall is faid to have a foundation fourteen feet below, and to rife as many feet above, the furface of the water; it appeared to be a very ftrong work, well executed, and capable of refift-- ing any force or weight of water that may coiafre 'againft it. It not only affords complete fecurity to the towm, but ferves as an agreeable walk for the recreation of the inhabitants. On the fide next to the water a parapet wall is raifed, fuffi- ciently high to prevent any accident in walking; it is about a quarter of a mile in length, and, at convenient diftances, flights ofeafy and commodious J7Q5,] ROUND THE WORLD. 297 dious flairs are judicioufly placed to afcend the Wall, from whence a commanding view is obtained of St. Jago and the adjacent country. The whole is built with brick and lime-mortar, and, on the firft flone being laid, an obeliflk, in imitation of that in St. Peter's fquare, and many others in Rome, was erected, on the pedeftal of which is the following irnfeription, in Spanifli; D. O. M. In the rejgn of Charles the Fourth : and During the Government of this Kingdom, by Don Ambrcfio Higgins de Vallenar; Who ordered Thefe dams to be conftructed in the year 1/Q2. There were two very fumptuous fabrics erecting in St. Jago, which, when finifhed, as I was informed by the Prefident, would be unequalled in New Spain; the one is the Caffa de Moneda, or the money-hotife, and the other is the cathedral. At the diftance of about five quadras* to the fouthward of the principal fquare, is erecting, by * Thirty-fix quadras make a mile. order P"l 298 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, order of his Catholic Majefty, the Money-Houfe, or Mint. The fituation is open, healthy, and well chofen for this extenfive and fpacious building, which appeared to be conltructing upon the plan of the public offices contained within Somer- fet-Houfe in London, though the ftructure is by rip means equal to,that edifice, either in fize or magnificence. It is intended for the refidence of all the officers and people belonging to the Mint. The apartments for the former, are large and commodious, and the rooms for the latter are very convenient. To thefe are added a fort of hofpital for the fick, and a chapel for divine fervice. Large places are to be fitted up for the reception of the materials and implements ufed in allaying the precious metals, and feparating them from the ore. The walls are built with large bricks, and the cement, or mortar, is from lime procured by the calcination of fhells. Part of the infide was plaftered with a moft delicate white fubftance, that had the appearance of being very durable. Moft of the iron-work ufed in the building, and fuch as is neceffary for the implements, -&c. ufed in the bufinefs of coining, is imported from Old Spain. Patterns for the balconies, balufters, and rails, have been tranfmitted from St. Jago to Bifcav, which have been fent o J ' back in iron, moft perfectly and fatisfactorily. executed. All the wood made ufe of in this fa- brig 1795-1 ROUND THE WORLD. 2Q0 brie is oak, excepting for the doors and windows, which are made of cyprefs. The principal front is to the north, and is about one hundred and fifty yards in length. Befides the door, or grand entrance, which is adorned with eight columns, there are eighteen inferior windows, and eighteen fuperior balconies. The two other fronts look to the eaft and to the weft, and are each of them one hundred and feventy-eight yards in length; thefe are decorated in the fame manner as the front, with pillars and balconies, be- pn C1D ,nl tween which are various efcutcheons, with devices alluding to the purpofe for which the building is erected. The court-yard is forty-five yards fquare, the whole adorned with columns, architrave, frize and cornice, which extend round the court at fome little diftance from the building. The principal entrance leads into a fpacious faloon; on the right are the apartments deftined for the fuperintendent, and on the left are to be thofe of the auditor; befide thefe, in the other two fronts, are the public offices, the hall for drawing bills, the office for weighing gold and filver, the treafury, auditory,. chapel, hofpital, &c. &c. After palling through the court-yard towards the fmelting-offices, wTe entered a paf- fage, fourteen yards wide, which led round all the workfhops and offices of labour: the whole of the edifice is of tfi£ Doric order, and the diftribution 300 A VOYAGE OP DISCGVE&Y [APRIL, diftribution of the offices and apartments appeared to have been Well confidered and judi- cioufly appropriated. The communications wrere likewife commodious, and well concerted to facilitate the bufinefs between one office and another, and the whole together was a ftructure well defervingour attention. The architect is profeffor Don Joa. Joefca, difciple of the lieutenant-general Don Francifco Savatini, firft architect to his Catholic Majefty. Don Joefca undertook to finifli and complete this building for feven hundred thoufand dollars, and the Captain-General, impreffed with a juft idea of the ufe and importance of fuch an eftab- lifhment, was induced to give his confent to the undertaking, as the calculation of the expence bore, in his eftimation, no proportion to the advantages it wrould afterwards infure, or the convenience it would afford. The architect, however, feems to have been greatly miftaken in the money which he Hated the building would coft, as the Prefident affured me, he was clearly of opinion, that it would require, a million and an half of dollars to be expended on the edifice before it could be completely finiihed. There is a fmall hill, about twelve quadras diftant from the principal fquare, in the grounds. belonging to the religious of the Dominican order, which is called St. Domingo. This hill 'titiU contains 1795-] ROUND THE WORLD. 301 contains a quarry of freeftone, of a whitifh colour, foft, and eafily worked by the chiffel. The vicinity of this hill to the city, and the facility with which the ftones were to be procured from the quarry, induced the Bilhop Don Juan Gonzales de Melgarego to begin the laborious undertaking of building a cathedral; for which purpofe he gave forty-three thoufand dollars towards its erection, and laid the firft flone of the edifice on the firft day 6f July, 1748. At this time there was not an artift in the kingdom of Chili to whofe ability a work of this dcfcfiption could be en- trufted, for which reafon no particular plan was adhered to, and the architecture feems to be a ifledley of whatever occurred to the perfons who fuperintended its conftruction. The principal front is to the eaft; that fide which communi- cates with the epifcopal palace is to the. fouth, and the north front runs parallel to the ftreet. The Igftgth of the building is about one hundred and twenty yards, its breadth is not lefs than thirty-five, and the height of the middle aifle is eighteen yards. It was not until after thirty years were expired, that application was made to Madrid for.a flulfui profeffional perfon to f upefintena t id the completion of this edifice. In the year 177'5, Don Joefca* the architect employed in building the inoney- houfe, was appointed to this office, and, fortunately j 302 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [APRiLj nately, at this time, the principal front was not begun. The plans he drew were fubmitted to the then prelate, Don Manuel de Alday ; and, on the firft day of March, in the year 1780, this artift took upon himfelf the charge of the building, which, at this time, wanted only five arches to reach the line of the principal front; the elevation of which, I was given to underftand, is a clofe imitation of St. John de Lateran,1 and according to the defigns of the famous Barrominie There are three doors in this fide, embellifhed with columns of the Ionic order; within is a handfome flaircafe, that leads to light and elegant towers, which add greatly to the beautiful appearance of this front. The cathedral contains ten altars, and, though they appeared to have been conftructed without regard to any rule of proportion, yet they are well worthy of attention. The columns and pilafters of each are an excellent imitation of jafper; thefe are green, the5 pedeftals are red, the cornices yellow, the bafes and capitals are gilt, and the whole together produces a very good effect. The colour of the ftone, with which this edifice is built, refembles that of the Portland ftone of England; but whether it is of the fame durability, or not, time only will determine. The workrnarifhip of the xnafon appeared to us to be ill executed, as few of the edges of the ftones were fo neatly wrought 1JQ5.] ROUND THE WORLD. 303 as to fit with exactnefs. Spires and other church ornaments, we were given to underftand, were intended to be erected, but the time when the building wTould be finilfied was not afcertained; the priefts, however, faid mafs in one part of it, which was fufficiently completed for that purpofe. A very large church is alfo conftructing, under the direction of the fame architect; this ftructure is built withbricks, its front is of the Doric order, with two large towers, in w'hich considerable knowledge of beauty and proportion feims to have been difplayed. The infide of this church is of the Ionic order, it contains three aifles and feven chapels. The gaols of the city having fallen into decay fome years ago, and becoming infecure for the J O ' G confinement of prifoners, a large building, of the Tufean order, was erected, and appropriated to this purpofe. This ftructure has rather a magnificent appearance and the diftribution of the cells and apartments it contains feems to have been made with confiderable judgment. The centre of the building is occupied by a grand tower, in which is the city clock ; and the bell, which ftrikes the retreat at nine o'clock; after which, it becomes the duty of the watchmen to fecure all perfons of fufpicious appearance, or fuch as are found in the ftreets with unlawful Betide 304 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, Befide thefe public buildings, about half^ quadra from the principal fquare is a houfe belonging to Sen' Don Jofe Ramirez de Saldana, o O perpetual regidor of St. Jago, and one of its moft opulent citizens. The porch, which is in the centre of the principal front of this manfion, is decorated with Doric columns, and many pillars of the fame order are with confiderable tafte ar-< ranged on each fide of iu This building is reputed to be the only one in the city in which the rules of architecture have been ftrictly obferved ; and, OH that account, it is highly efteemed by thofe of the inhabitants who have any knowledge of the art, or tafte for regular compofitibns. A Very good houfe was erecting about fix quadras from the fquare before mentioned, after a defign of Inigo Jones, as a country refidence for Senr Don Jofe Antonio Aldunate, the Provifor General of this bifhoprick, who is juftly extolled for his polifhed manners and literary abilities. At the diftance of fourteen quadras from the fame fquare a chapel was building; at the ex- pence of the friars belonging to the order of St. Francifco. The Doric prevails in the external conlpofition of this edifice, but within the pillars are of the Corinthian order. It contains ten diftinct chapels, is dedicated to our Lady of Car^ mih, and is called the Littie Convent; Having given fome account of the moft con- fpicuous 1795<] ROUND THE WORLD. 30$ fpicuous public and other buildings, that were either finifhed or erecting, in St. Jago, I fhall now proceed to ftate fuch information refpecting the population and commerce of this city as I was enabled to procure. St. Jago, the capital of Chili, is ftated to have been founded on the 12th of February, 1541. This city is the relidence of the Prefident, who is Captain-General of the whole kingdom, and Governor and prefiding Judge of the audience chamber, or court of juftice. It is faid to contain thirty thoufand five hundred inhabitants; and, if my eftimation of its extent be not very incorrect, it muft be confidered as populous. The fubor^ dinate cities in this great kingdom are, Coquimbo, Chilian, Conception, and Valdivia; and the principal towns are Valparaifo, Capiapo, Vallenar, St. Francifco de Borja, St. Raphael de la Rofa> La Ligua, Quillet a, Los Andes, Melipilla, St. Jo- feph, Anconcagua, St. Ferdinand, Curico, Talca, Linares, Nueva, Bil boa, C™ ugeres, and others of lefs importance. The kingdom of Chili is ftated to extend, in a northern and fouthern direction, from the uninhabited parts of Atacama, which divides it from the vice-royalty of Peru, to the ftraits of Magellan ; and, in a.weftern and eaftern direction, from the ocean to the foot of the Cordilleras, which divides it from the vice-royalty of Buenos Vol. VI. X Ayres; IIH w\ P 30Q A VOYAGE 'OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, Ayres; but I cannot help being of opinion, that the kingdom of Chili does not extend further fouth than the fouthern extremity of the ifles de Chiloe, as I fhould confider the American coaft, to the fouthward of thofe iflands, to be that of Patagonia. It is divided into two bilhopricks, or proyinces, St. Jago and Conception, each of which are under the immediate care and direction of an Intendant; Brigadier Don Francifco La Mata Linares has the charge of the latter ; and the fur- ther title of Chief Intendant of the province of St.. Jago is added to the reft of the polls of honour and places of emolument enjoyed by the prefent Captain-General Don Ambrofio Higgins deVal- lenar; the value of whofe appointments amount, annually, to thirty thoufand dollars, whilft thofe of Don La Mata Linares do not exceed ten thoufand dollars. Thefe provinces are each fubdi- vided into fmall diftricts, which originall J known by the name of Corregimientos, but are now called Subdelegaciones. There is about a millior n of fpecie coined at St. Jago every year, v\ h\rh fhe fund from whence the falaries of the ftate officers, the military eftablifliment, and other incidental ex- pences of the government, are defrayed. The army confifts of a battalion of infantry in Conception ; two fquadrons of horfc, one company of dragoons, and two of artillery. The cavalry \:-M of I I 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 307 of this country are all well mounted, and extremely expert horfemen, and were they as fli.il- ful in the ufe of fire-arms as they are in the management of the fword and the lance, they would not be inferior to any troops of this description in Europe. I was given to underftand, that in cafe of an attack upon Valparaifo, the principal fea- port of the kingdom, an army of eight thoufand men, confifting of cavalry and militia, could there be affembled for its defence in twenty-fours hours. The country, to the fouthward of the river Biobio, in the province of Conception, is inhabited by a nation of very fierce Indians, who formerly committed great depredations on the frontiers under the Spanifh authority, and lived in a continual ftate of hoftility with their civilized neighbours; but, in confequence of the humane, judicious, and political arrangements which have been made, from time to time, by Don Ambrofio Higgins, the number of the turbulent fpirits has been much reduced, and the natives now ceafe to be regarded with any apprehenfion by the Spaniards. In the diftrict which they occupy, I was given to underftand, there were ten thoufand warriors, a robuft and hardy race of men; but fo far.had the wife adminiftration of the prefent Captain-General fucceeded, in fub- duing the natural ferocity of thefe Indians, and in. bringing them over to fupport the authority X 2 and 308 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, and interefts of the crown of Spain ; that Don Ambrofio did not entertain the leaft doubt of their co-operating with the forces of His Catholic Majefty, fhould it be neceffary to call them forth againft the invafion of a foreign enemy. Independently of the warfare which thefe people had, for many years, carried on againft the Spaniards, they were fubject to continual in- furrections and internal commotions amongft themfelves. During the time that Don Ambrofio had the chief military command on this frontier, he happily fuccfeded in terminating the feuds which had fo long prevailed amongft the feveral tribes compofing this great nation, and had introduced amo;ngft the ferocious inhabitants of this country, a Ipirit of induftry, and a defire to excel each other in the cultivation of the ground, the breeding of cattle, and other peaceful arts; but upon his being promoted to the elevated fituation which he now fills, with fo much honor to himfelf, and benefit to the country, he was under the necelfity of leaving the guardianlhip of thefe children of nature, and of repairing to the capital. Soon after his departure from the frontiers, frefh animoflties, and new caufes for jealoufy, arofe amongft the different tribes, w7hich ended in a war, that was fu- rioufly carried on by all parties. Their peaceful and domeftic occupations no longer'en gaged their attention, J795*J ROUND THE WORLD. 30() attention, and their agriculture and breeding of cattle, which had become the fources from whence they were enabled to derive many comforts, were abandoned and totally neglected. Don Am- brofio, with the fame warmth of heart and in- tereft for the happinefs and profperity of the Indians, which, during his refidence amongft them, had produced fo valuable an effect on their tempers and difpofitions, reprefented to the Court of Madrid the commotions that continued to exift amongft the Auraucan and other tribes on that frontier; and, at the faSte time, propofed fuch rneafures as, in his opinion, were moft likely to reconcile the differences, and eftablilh a permanently good underftanding between the contending chiefs of the four Butalmapus, which are the four diftricts into which this nation of Indians is divided. In confequence of this reprefentation, and the rneafures recommended by the Captain-General* he was directed by the Spanifh court to repair to the camp of Negrete, and there to hold a convocation, for the purpofe of hearing and redreffing thofe grievances which were ftated by the feveral chiefs to be the caufes of all their difcontents; and, as the preliminary fpeech 4)f the Prefident, 09 this occafion, tends greatly to exhibit the na^ tural character and general difpofition of thefe people, I have been tempted to infert a tranfla- X 3 tion no A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, tion of it from the Indian language, under the imprefiion that, to thofe of my readers who may be curious-in tracing the gradations of the human character, from a favage up to a civilized ftate, it may not be unacceptable. " The fpeech of Field-Marlhal Don Ambrofio Higgins de Vallenar, Prefident, Governor, and Captain-General of the kingdom of Chili, to the Auraucan and other Indian nations, met in convocation in the camp of Negrete, on the 4th day of March, 1/Q3. ei Chiefs, my antient and honourable friends ; full of joy and fatisfaction that I now meet upon this happy ground of Negrete, as formerly on that of Longuilmo, the great chiefs and principal leaders of the four Butalmapus, into which this valuable country vided, that ftretches from the fouth of this great river Biobio to the outer parts of the moft fouthern continent, and from the Cordilleras to the great ocean; I falute you all with joy, and with the utmoft fincerity of my heart. I am ordered by the king, my mafter, to falute you in His Majefty's name, and to congratulate you on the felicity of this aufpi- cious day, which, through my mediation, on account of the love I bear you all, has reftored the ineftimable bleffings of peace to the four Butalmapus. " With i/ys. ROl THE WORLD. 311 " With the utmoft precilion and difpatch, I have taken care to remove every obftacle that impeded the attainment of this molt welcome object. I have alfo been indefatigable in difpofing the minds of thofe to peace who were reftlefs and e, or to take great umbrage on and I have been unwearied in ces I have had with the feveral prone to reven; little occalions all the conferei chiefs, fince nr arrival at the fort of Angels, and in this encampment, during the time that I have waited for the arrival of thofe more diftant leaders, who are now collected with the other members of this affembly. I have patiently and fullye examined the complaints of fome, and heard the excufes of others, on the diftreffing fubject of your diffentions, your animofities, and your wars, fo that nothing now remains for me to learn of all their direful caufes. To-day, however, the fun fhines bright, and I fee, with heart-felt joy, that on my once again drawing nigh unto you, a friendly difpofition appears in all, to terminate the unhappy differences which long, too long^ have fubfifted amongft you ; and I perceive that you are prepared, once more, to unite in thofe. facred bonds of peace, in the full enjoyment of which I left you, on my feparation from you, and departure for St. Jago. I rejoice that you all wilh to bury, under the fod of this encampment, all vour animofities, heart-burnings, dif- X 4 putes, 312 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, putes, and differences; and may the prefent meeting be a commencement of perpetual felicity to all the children of man who refide in the countries that extend from Biobio to Chiloe. fjj Recollect your fituation, O my friends, when I was appointed by His Majefty to the military command of this frontier, and deftined to fit down among you. There are many amongft you, who can remember the miferable ftate in which I found the whole country ; it was de- ftroyed on both fides the river, it was defolate and laid wafte, and all its inhabitants were fuffering the dreadful calamities of unceafing furious wars, brought on by their own intemperance and unruly paffions; many of whom were obliged to retire, with their women and children, to the mountains, and were reduced at laft to the ne- celfity of feeding on their faithful dogs that followed them ! The great chiefs and Indians of the Butalmapus were witnefs of thefe things. Before I left you, however, (on his Majefty being gracioufly pleafed to promote me to the prefix dency of the kingdom) your houfes were rebuilt/ your fields fmiled with a yellow harveft, and your paflures were richly decorated with the herds of your cattle. Your women provided you with comfortable garments; the high-minded and unruly young men obeyed the voice of the chiefs; and none of thofe exceffes were practifed, which, fince 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 313 fince my departure, have exceeded the cruelties and profligacy of your antient barbarifm ; to which you would probably have altogether returned, had it not been for the zeal of your Commander General, who reported your proceedings % X J X o to me, and happily fulpended, until I fhould be fent amongft you, the fatal effects of your dif- cords. " I do not, however, wilh to fupprefs the merit to which you have a juft claim, or to con* ceal, that, in the midft of all thefe difturbances, you rigoroufly obferved the promifes you made me in Longuilmo. The Spanifli fettlements, fituated on the fouthern fide of this great river, ( have been, by you, moft fcrupuloufly refpected, their perfons have been held facred, their cattle have not been difturbed, and in no one circumftance have you broken the faith and goodwill which you pledged yourfelves to maintain. Of all this have I been made acquainted, from time to time, by the feveral commanders on the frontier ; and for this honourable part of your conduct I give you all due thanks. What I then promifed I likewife have ftrictly performed ; I have recommended the four Butalmapus to the protection of the king ; I have fupplicated him to continue to them his paternal affiftance ; and His Mai eft v, w ith that greatnefs of foul, and piety 314 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, piety of heart, which fo eminently diftinguifh hit royal character, has been pleafed to order, that you fhall be fupported and protected fo long as you may deferve the blelfings of his favor, by adhering to the good, feparating yourfelves from the bad, and evincing, by the general tenor of your conduct, your fubordination and obedience." The humanity, good fenfe, patience, and per- feverance, of the Captain General, very conlpi- cuoufly appear upon this occafion ; and it is not lefs pleafing to obferve, that, even amongft thefe untaught nations of the earth, their political engagements are fcrupuloufly fulfilled; and that the diftreffes confequent on inteftine warfare, have not the power to make them violate their treaties, or to break thofe promifes which they folemnly pledge themfelves to perform. The. territorial pofleffions of fuch of the Indians as have fubmitted to the authority, and placed themfelves under the protection, of the Spanifh crown, have been all confirmed to them by treaty; to be ufed, cultivated, or difpofed of, agreeably to their own willies or determinations; and, as an incitement to their future induftry and repofe, I was informed by Don Ambrolio, that he had purchafed from them a large tract ol land, which he had divided, and laid out ad- vantagcoufly, for the purpofes of agriculture and breeding I795-] ROUND THE WORLD. 315 breeding cattle ; and had left it in their poffef- fion, under the direction of proper perfons to dee his defigns carried into effect. -Whilft we were under the holpitable roof of the Prefident, I had an opportunity of feeing a chief and fix of the Indians, who had come to the palace to pay an annual vifit of relpect to the Captain General. Thefe people were of a middling flature, they were flout and well made, of regular features, and not unlike the North-Weft American Indians ; they were dreffed after the Spanifh fafhion of the country; but if an opinion can be correctly formed of the tribe they belong to from fo fmall a fample, they would, by no means, anfwer the expectations I had formed of their prowefs and military character. Thefe Indians were accompanied by a Spanifli gentleman, who refides amongft them in one of their villages, and is called Captain of Indians; and I tinderftood,/that to each tribe an officer, of fimilar rank, is attached, who prefides over their interefts, correfponds with the Captain-General, and, on all occafions, acts as their "advifer and interpreter. The exterior commerce of the kingdom is principally carried on from the fea-ports of Conception, Coquimbo, and Valparaifo ; but the latter has the greateft fliare of trade, arifing from its central fituation, and its vicinity to the capital: Sl6 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY fAPRIL L 9 tal: the diftance from St. Jago was formerly thirty leagues ; but it will be decreafed, when the new line of road is completed, to twenty-two leagues. From St. Jago, to the top of the firft hill towards Valparaifo, a diftance of about fix leagues, the road is finiflied ; between the foot of the hill and the city there are three bridges built with bricks over three fwampy places, which before were frequently almoft impaffable, and in many other parts, where the road is depreffed, it is paved acrofs, to give a free courfe to the rain waters, and at the fame time, to prevent any damage from their paffing-over the loofe materials of which the road is compofed. This extent of road is now become the general refort of the inhabitants, either for walking, riding on horfeback or in carriages; and the valuable cha^ racter who firft projected it, whenever the multiplicity of his bufmefs would allow him to take any recreation of this nature, is conftantly attended thither by a numerous company of the inhabitants, and on fuch occafions he derives a confiderable degree of fatisfaction in proving how" eafily he can travel up the firft hill from St. Jago in his coach, with the afliftance of four mules, only. The meafured diftance between St. Jago and Buenos Ayres I could not learn, but I underftood that 1795-] ROUND THE WORLD. 3iJ that the poll travels from thence to the capital of Chili in twenty days; and that the country, from Buenos Ayres until it reaches the foot of the Cor-» dilleras, which run in a northern and fouthern direction, and pafs to the eaftward of St. Jago, is one intire defert, without trees or any other fort of vegetation; and that it is fo completely a level plain, that even a hillock does not appear on its furface. The neareft filver mine to St. Jago is at the diftance of about feven leagues, and the neareft gold mine is to the north-eaft of the city, at the diftance of about thirty leagues. The value and importance of this rich country to Old Spain is fully exhibited in the feveral ordinances, rules and directions, which, from time to time, have been iffued to the Intendants of the provinces, and enforced by the fupreme council of the Indies, at the exprefs command of His Catholic Majefty. Thefe are comprehended under diftinct titles, or heads, as they have reference, or apply to, the ecclefiaftical or civil govern- JL'i J f G ment of the kingdom. The principal obfervances are thofe refpecting the tenths and contributions for the endowment of the churches, and the fup- port of the religious orders ; the collection of the public revenues, the appropriation of the royal eftates, the adminiftration of juftice, the regulation 31S A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, tion of the internal police, and the delegation of powers and authority in the event of foreign wars or domeftic infurrections. I was fo fortunate as to obtain a tranflation of moil of thefe rules by which the archbifhops and chief officers of ftate regulate their conduct; and as it does not appear to me, that I can fhew the rigid attention which is, and has ever been, paid by the Spanifli court to the interefts of thefe wealthy eftablilhments, fo well, as by quoting fome few of the royal commands, I have extracted three for this purpofe. " Number 150. " By the Bull of Alexander the Vlth, dated the lOth of November, 1501, and confirmed fince by fucceflive fupreme pontiffs, the Tenths of the Indies belong to my royal crown, and half of a ilar y on the benefices conferred "by me; with full dominion, abfolute and irrevocable, to aflift the churches with a fufficient fum annually, for the decorous maintenance of the divine law, and for a competent falary to the prelates and other minifters of the holy golpel, who ferve at the altar. In virtue of which, the fundamental difpofition of the ritual has been promulgated, that thefe objects may be duly fulfilled. My crown remains under the obligation of fupplying, at the expence of the reft of the rents of its patrimony, the fum deficient to which thefe 1?Q5.] ROUND THE WORLD. 310. thefe, annually, may not amount, for the endowments and other holy purpofes; and therefore it is incumbent upon all thofe acting under my royal authority to be watchful over, to have good difcrction in the adminiftration of the decimal, productions, and to divide them amongft the parties interefted, with due exactnefs and integrity, that the holy churches, parifhes, and hof- pitals, under the immediate fovereign protection, may not feel any injury or wrong, nor my royal exchequer be called upon for its pledged refpon- fibility. I therefore command, that the royal officers do affift at all the public fales and accounts of the tenths, and that they like wife attend to the erections and repairs of the churches, and duly examine the expenee of each, and that they ultimately prevent all frauds and impofitions, to the end that the participants may have their right, and that my .royal eftates may not be charged with any refponfibility for deficiencies. . Having confidered that the new eftablifliment and fyftem of intendancies may offer doubts, on the method propofed for carrying the feveral regulations into effect, I have thought proper, conformably to the true fpirit of the laws already in being, to annex the following commands, for the purpofe of facilitating the new arrangement, and fo infure the moft exact execution of all the matters it contains." Here 320 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRILp Here follow directions for the calling of meetings, and a lift of the officers commanded to attend them, with a great number of rules for fe- curing to the government a due adminiftration of their feveral functions. And it will be feen, by the following extracts, that the happinefs of the people, the prefervation of good order, and lefs regarded by the Spanifh monarchy, than the eftablifhment of its religious perfuafion, or profiting by the immenfe wealth which South America is capable of yielding. " Confiding in the care and attention which has been manifefted by the Intendants of provinces, I command that they do, by means of themfelves, or fubaltern judges, gain a thorough r j o ' o o knowledge of the lives, inclinations, and cuftoms of the people fubject to their government; that they c-haftife the lazy, and thofe of bad intentions, who, far from fupporting the good order and police of their refpective towns, caufe inquietudes and fcandal, disfiguring, with their vices and lazinefs, the good face of things, de- fpifing the laws, and perverting the defigns of thofe amongft them who are virtuoufly difpofed. They are not, however, under colour or pretext of their authority, to be inquifitive, or to meddle in the life, genius, private purfuits, or domeftic concerns of individuals, nor to take cognizance of 17950 KOUND THE WORLD. 321 of reports or uneftablifhed accufations that cannot influence the good example of the people, nor difturb the tranquillity of the public government. " For the due adminiftration of juftice, and the circumftances which have already been provided for by the foregoing articles, it appears, that whatever may conduce to the happinefs or prof- perity of my vaffals, fhould and ought to be diligently attended to and obferved by the magif- trates and officers of police. For this efpecial purpofe, I order that the Intendants do procure* from engineers of the greateft renown and abilities, topographical maps of their relpective provinces, in which are to be diftinguifhed their • boundaries, mountains, woods, rivers, lagoons, and all other matters worthy of note; and to this end, the engineers fo employed are to execute their commiffions with all the promptitude* ex- actnefs, and punctuality of expreflion poffible; they are to become acquainted with the temperature and qualities of the feveral foils, and of the natural productions, not only of the animal and vegetable, but of the mineral, kingdoms ; of the mountains, valleys, paftures, and meadows; of the rivers which are capable of being widened, made navigable, and ultimately to communicate with the ocean ; the expence of fuch undertakings, and the benefits that would refult to my Vol. VI. Y fubjects Win m flL 322 , A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL ft&fects from carrying fuch works into effects They are to make themfelves perfectly fatisfiedtoH 'vytat places new channels or aqueducts might be made, which would be ufeful for the watering of the lands under cultivation, and for the purpofe of reducing-lateur by the erection of mills. To report the ftate'of the£-b]^ftges^ =-pointing out thofe which require repairirig^and the paffes-over which additional * ones ought to be thrown.' What roads can be amended, improved-* or ihort- ened; what protection or guards are necefiary for their fecurity. In what'tfei^-are growing tim- J Fog bers, ufeful for fhip-building in the provinces, or valuable in the European arfenals; they are to certify and report upon the induftry and commerce of the diftricts : the fea^orts capable of y r X fheltering veflels, which from their fituation and utility ought to be' kept open, and fuch as are prejudicial that had better be fliut. The In- tendants will alfo inform themfelves of the means of bettering the condition of rriy people, by augmenting their comforts, and by coriferving -the happinefs and profperity of my dominions. With thefe objects before them, they are to take efpe- cial care* that, in the towns or villages, within their refpective provinces, they do not allow of vagabonds without deftination, nor people without inclination to work ; but that they make the fturdy, and of competent age to manage arms, J?Q5. Round the world. ilift arms, lr ny royal regiments, engage in my marine fervice, or on board fhips of commerce; or eKe that they order fuch perfons to be employed in the repairing or erecting fuch public works, as fhall be judged moft proper, according to the circumftances of each individual's cafe. Should any fuch perfons be unfit for work, and mendicants by profeffion, they fhall be taken up, put into hofpitals, and there be employed each according to his ftrength; but if it can be proved that they are reftlefs unquiet fubjects of no re- fponfibility, and bad character, the penalties' eftabliflied by the laws of the Indies are to be inflicted, and fuch vagrants are to be fent to hard labour in the mines, or to the Prefidios." Thefe ordinances are alfo the firft of a great number of regulations,; which followsfor the encouragement of induftry,'the cultivation of the furface, and extending the mineral, prooerty of thefe kingdoms, in which is difplayed no lefs- zeal and conce*rn~ for the profperity and comforts of all the inhabitants, whether of Spanifh extraction or the native Indians, than for the. inter eft which the Spanifli crown poffeffes in fccuring to-itfelf the monopoly of this valuable part of its exjenfive; empire. For as the kingdom ot Chili; cannot carded as capable of .prodwtfhggtigreat Y 2 hauftible but be i wealth mml mM $24; a Voyage of discovery [aprie?. hauftible mineral productions, it may fairly be efteemed as one of the rich eft territories belonging to his Catholic Majefty. In order, however, to promote the growth of the greateft quantity of corn and number of cattle, encouragement fhould be given to the lower orders of the people to become induftrious, and to prefer the pleafant purfuits of cultivation to that fupine and inactive; way of Fife to which they have been fo long ac- cuftomed; for if a fpirit of induftry were generally diffufed amongft them, and due rewards* held out for wTorking the valuable metals, the prefent habits of indolence would probably be overcome; and as there does not exift any physical impediment to exertion, either from climate or any local ciffcnmftance, it is not poffible to ascertain what might be the fum of the return from the* productive labour of this highly favored country, when fuch labour fhould be properly directed to the feveral fources of its latent wealth. The influence of the eeclefiaikical orders over the minds of the people, and the preference which is given by themy and the generality of the inhabitants, to an ufelefs unworthy life of lazinefs and begging,- will continue to operate againft any change; and it is much to be apprehended,, that nothing but a totally new modification of their prefent fcherae of fociety, can infure to the individuals* 'J7Q5.] ROUND THE WORLEU 325 ^iduals, and to the ftate under which they are protected, the advantages that a reform in their {political fyftem promifes in future to beftow. Confidering that the time we had now been abfent from the veffels had been of fufficient iength to accomplifh the feveral fervices I had /left to be performed, preparations were made for our return to Valparaifo; and after exprelfing our moft grateful acknowledgments for the weighty obligations conferred upon us, by the (Unremitting attention to our prefent comforts, and anxious concern for our future welfare, which on every occafion had heen exhibited by his Excellency the Prefident, and making offer of our beft thanks for the friendly, hofpitable, .and polite entertainment we had received frora other individuals during our flay in the capital, we took our leave, and proceeded from St. Jago toward Valparaifo. The fame mode of conveyance as that to which we had before reforted, was now adopted for our journey back to the fea coaft. Neither the iroad we had to retrace, nor the country on either fide of it^ prefented any thing in the courfe of our travelling worthy of remark, that J have not fufficiently noticed on. our journey to St. Jago, excepting that the load., which from the loofenefs of the materials with which it is formed, had fuffered, as I fufpected it would, very much by the defcending waters Y 3 from ^fiipr 326 A VOYAGE OF DISC0VER3Y [APRIL, from the mountains, and in many places it was greatly injured by the rain that had fallen during our refidence at St. Jago ; and it is much to be feared, unlefs fome means can be adopted for its fecurity, and to prevent the injurious effects of the defcending torrents, that this valuable defign projected by Don Ambrofio will in a great mea- fure be defeated. On our arrival at Valparaifo I found moft of our bufinefs in a ftate of forwardnefs; the mainmaft had been repaired and was grot on board, but 011 our attempting to rig the main-yard, on Thurfday the 1 Oth, it was found to be rotten pearly half through in the middle of it, and in this ftate intirely unfit for fervice ; this was a mortification I did dot expect to have met with, and as there .was no polfibility of procuring at fpa: || ol lufhcient lize to replace it, the only means we had of repairing the defect was by making a temporary yard out of a fpare maintopmaft, with the addition of the yard arms of the yard which was decayed, and which I was extremely forry to obferve were by no means in a perfectly found condition. Although a further detention at Valparaifo was now unavoidable, yet that was not the only circumftance which produced me concern on this occafion; for this additional difafter was of fo ferious a nature* that when I came to reflect on 1703.J ROUND THE WORLD. 327 OSPtJie difabled condition of our main-maft, and that our main-yard would be in three pieces, I •#&$under the cruel neceflity.of giving up all ftedaer--thoughts-of recommencing our furvey of 1 le coaft to the fouthward of the iflands of Chiloe, and toflfetermine on making the beft of our way from this port round cape. Horn to St. Helena. I could not, however, avoid having fome appre- henfion left our very crippled ftate fhould prove infufflcient to preferve the veffel amidft the boif- 3 encounter in this paffage, it every precaution within 1 be devifed was reforted to, naking the maft and yard as notwithstanding our power that ex for the purpofe o :u abandon tlic exam mati yet intercfting part of fenced; becaufe I ha fhould have been enab Valparaifo, -to have ca pn ot this aimoit unknown, the coaft, is not to be de- d anxioufly hoped that I led by our re-equipment at tried into effect the whole of the commifii'on,.which his Majefty had bee pleafed to entrufb to'imy execution; but und all the circum tion, I did nc mac dulge n ly inclinations at . ;lne liazarcr_ ol a i jcflysLl hi as under my cjt >mmanti, .and at j *of the i ives of fo many? valuable,men, v> tC.heerfu llv endured the fa itiguesof ourforr Telle Is condi- dio ey, 328 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APR |L vey, and who, after fo long an abfence from their native country were intkled, in a peculiar manner, to every care and protection that were in my power, for the purpofe of infuring them a fafe return to their families and friends. The main-yard was fent on fhore, and the carpenters were immediately employed upon it; but as I could not flatter myfelf that it would be in a ftate fit to be received again on board in lefs than eight or ten days, I employed this interval in examining the ftores and prQvifions with which we had been fupplied, in attending to. the repairs of the veffels, viliting the obfervatory on fhore, and making fome obfervations on the harbour and town of Valparaifo; with which, and the refult of the aftronomical and nautical obfervations made during our flay, 1 fhall conclude this chapter. The caulkers were yet bufy on the decks and other parts of the Difcovery, and the rigging demanded infinitely more repair than I had fup- pofipd it would have required, owing to the very rotten and decayed ftate of almoft every rope or* board. In thefe effential fervices the artificers, were conftantly engaged, whilft the reft of the crew were employed in procuring a full fupply of water, and fuch a flock of flour and other provifions as I confidered would be neceffary until we fhould arrive at St, Helena. Ships 1/95.] ROUND THE WORLD. 329 Ships deftined to th e port of Valparaifo. fhould endeavour during the fummer months to make the coaft well to the fouthward of the bay, in order that a fair wind may be infured for enter- ing the bay. The foutherly winds, which in general extend from Go to 70 leagues from the coaft, moflly prevail until the month of May; and from the middle of that month during all the months of June, July, Auguft, and September, I was given to underftand the prevailing winds were from the north. Thefe winds are commonly attended with great quantities of rain, and very foggy weather, but they do not often blow with much violence. As foon as the wind returns to the fouthward the dry feafon com* roences, and fb it continues with little variation during the remainder of the yean Thefe winds, however, frequently blow very ftrong, fo as to break veffels adrift, though well fecured by anchors on the fhore, near to the town of Valparaifo. Within four or five leagues of the point of Angels, which is the weftern point of the bay, is a low rocky point, near to which is a detached high barren rock ; thefe points lie from each other S. 51 W. and N. 51 E. To the northward of the above low rocky point, are fome fcattered rocks, that lie about two miles from the point, and about a fourth of that dif- diftance frq&l the fhore, and to the northward of thefe 330 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, thefe rocks is a fandy bay, on the north, eaft-fide of which is a houfe. In this bay I v/as led to believe that anchorage might.be had, though the fituation is certainly very much expofed. The point of Angels, (off which are alfo fome rocks lying very near to it,) may be approached by failing at the diftance of half a league from the fhore, and as foon as the point is paffed the town of Valparaifo is inftantly difcovered. About feven miles to the north-eaft from this point is a duller of rocks lying at fome diftance from the fhore, on which the fea vbreaks violently ; but w-e»had no opportunity of afeertaining their fituation with any)o3egtiee of precilion. The bay is about four miles wide, and about a mile deep; apparently free from any fort-of danger; but as i r j j g 7 it is greatly expofed^to-the northerly winds, the trading veflels ' constantly moor with two good G J G anchors and cables in that direction, and with other cables fait to anchors on fhore, in five or fix fathoms water, foft fandy bottom, near to the euitom-houfe ; by which means it is expected that the officers of the revenue may be enabled to prevent any contraband trade,, by vigilantly attending to their duty in the day .time, and by a rowing guard during the night. The ■■ daptht ■•' GO G . G 1 of the water gradually increafes with therdiftance from the ihore to 35 fathoms, and the bottom becomes more tenacious. In the depth of fix- teen Ill 1/95.] ROUND THE WORLD. 331 teen fathoms, in which we took our ftation, it was a very flirt clay. .Here we moored a cable each way to the northward and to the fouthward, the point of Angels bearing by compafs N. 35 W., the fort in the town N. 86 W., the redoubt on the hills S. 5 E., the church at Almandrel S.65 E., the eaft fort N. 83 E., the eaft point of the bay N. 57 E., and the neareft fhore S. 7 W., a cable's length diftant. On the top of a hill, on the eaft fide of the bay, is an open or barbet battery, lately erected with ftone and brick, and capable of mounting ten guns; this battery commands all that fide of the. bay, the beach, and the village of Almandrel. On thefummit of another hill is a ftone.redoubt, of a circular form, with eleven embrafures; thefe com^^nd the beach and village of Almandrel to the eaftward, the bay to the northward, and the town ana naroour or "^feft ward, molt neglect given to unc though and ri moft confidcrable fort the town, within wh: It is fitu« Iparaifo to the north- s fortification was in a us condition, we were the principal magazine ins. The largeft and tion is in the middle of is the refidence of the on a fmall eminence, fide of which is open to the fea, and is fepa- rated from it onK arrow p Dafs. The height of the lower wall, which is ftrong, and " well 332 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL, well built with mafonry, is about fifteen feet to the embrafures; of which, there are fix that front the fea, two face the ftreet to the eaftward, and two look into the market-place to the weftward. The upper part of the hill is furrounded by another ftrong ftone wall, about ten feet in height, and half way up the hill ; a third wall croffes it, which fhews three embrafures to the fea, immediately over the fort,, and the governor's houfe below. At the place where this wall terminates, which is near the fummit of the eminence, the fide of the hill falls perpendicularly down into a deep gully, by which the fort is encompaffed, and which might be the means of rendering this for- tification unaffailable, and a place that might long be maintained, were it not for other hills within mufket-fliot, which command every part of it. The fpace indofed by the lower wall is about four hundred yards in length, and in fome places about one hundred in breadth ; here are the barracks for the troops, and at the upper end is a building, in which a court is held, for the regulation of the police of the town. A door, in that fide of the wall which faces the marketplace, is the only entrance, and leads by a winding flair-cafe to different parts of the fortification. There is one other fortification, about half a mile from the fort, fituated on the weft fide of the bay, at the foot of a high hill, and but little elevated 1795-] ROUND THE WORLD, 333 vated above the level of the fea. This fliews a face of five embrafures to the eaft, and in that direction commands the weft fide of the bay; three embrafures to the northward are fo difpofed, as to be able to open upon any veffel the inftant fhe paffes round the point of Angels ; whilft two others to the fouthward, command the fhips lying in the harbour or the bay. We computed that thefe feveral places contained about feventy pieces of cannon, many of which were without proper carriages, and fome were lying difmounted under the walls of the lower battery in the town.- From the weftern fort fome rocks extend into the bay, and the bottom is too foul for veffels of any force to anchor nearer to this fortification than about four hundred yards; but they may approach and anchor in a very eligible fituation, within about two hundred and fifty yards of the garrifon or principal fortrefs; and neither of thefe places, in their prefent fituation, would be able to refift a well directed fire even from tw7o or three frigates. It appeared to us to be very extraordinary, that; under the exifting circumftances of Europe, and during a war between Spain and France, the fortifications at Valparaifo fhould remain in fuch a neglected, ruinous, and defencelefs ftate, and that no rneafures fhould either be reforted toy or^ appear to be in contemplation-,,for putting them into . 334 A. VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRILS into a more refpectable condition : efpecially as it is from this port that the kingdom of Peru principally depends for its fupply of grain ; in return for which fugar, tobacco, indigo, and fpi- rits, are imported into Valparaifo. Tar we found not only to be a very fcarce but dear aj^Scle, as the expence of the quantity which was neceffary for our new cables, was-nearly equal to that of the workmanlhip and raw material of which they were compofed. The houfes in Valparaifo, on account of the earthquakes which frequently happen in South America, like thofe at St. Jago, confift of the ground floor only ; the walls are built with mud, and pi altered over with a- preparation of lime ; they are convenient, well adapted to the climate, and are in general handfomelv furnifhed. In the O J town and in the village of Almandrel there are fix churches, within the diocefe of the archbifhop of St. Jago, but under the direction of a vicar, who refides at Valparaifo, and is amenable .for* his conduct to the archbifhop. The town and its neighbourhood are under the iurifdiction of the governor, who receives his appointment, with a falary of four thoufand dollars per annum, from the king of Spain ; but he is neverthelefs under O . X 7 the immediate orders and controul of the Captain-General. AH civil and military caufes are, heard at &k T a^o. Capital offer s are leldoni committed ; 17Q5.] ROUNDTTHR WXARLD. &33 committed ; a man waSifcund guilty on a charge? of felony, and hanged about three years before our arrival, &r ptttiifhment that, we underftood? ^afifeldonT'known to be inflicted. I could not flcedtain what were the revenues of the king of Spairreon the exports and imports at Valparaifo, the collection of'which is an im- ^brfant part of the governor's butfinefs: nor was liable to fatisfyofhyielf as to the amount of doln 3 ars which are afmimilyrjfent'from this port to Old Spain, but I rradii^afdn tsi believe it was not lefs than one milfioir and;:an,.h"alf. The quantity of gold and filver coined into-money at Mexico is prodigious ; I obtained an account of the coin-: age" there, from the 3 ft of January to-the 3 111 of December, 1 7Q3, by which it appeared that the total amount-was as under : In gold. In filver. Total. •;pefos, or hard dollars, pcfos, ; pefos, 884,262. 23,42^,030. 24,312,942. This, however, was the greateft quantity of Ipe- cie ever known in one year to have been coined in the money-houfe at Mexico. In anfwer to a letter, which by the delire of Senr Don Ambrofio I had written to him, acquainting him with our fafe return to Valparaifo, he had the goodnefs to exprefs the moft ferious concern for the decayed ftate in which I had the niislorturie to ■finrl 333 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [APRIL* ter to Governor Alava, he directed him to ufe his utmoft endeavours to fupply us with a new one, by fearching amongft the traders in the port; and ftating that he had underftood from the fhip Mercury, a main-yard for the Difcovery might be procured. Although we could not on this occafion avail ourfelves of the President's kind attention, yet thefe letters breathed not only fo much friendlinefs and anxiety for the preferva- tion of our little community, but exhibited fuch earneft fblicitude for the fafe return of our expedition to Europe, left the important information we had to communicate fhould be loft to the world, that I cannot refift noticing this circumftance as an additional proof of the goodnefs and magnanimity of his Excellency the Prefident of Chili. The wind, which had been generally in the fouthern quarter, blowing gently, and fubfiding into a calm towards the evening of Thurfday the 23d, changed to the north, and was accompanied by a very heavy rain, that continued with little intermiflion all the following day, Friday the 24th. After the rain ceafed, the weather was cloudy and unpleafant until Saturday the 25th, when the wind returned to the S. S.W. with fair and moderate weather, notwithftanding which the Chatham's fmall bowxr cable, in confequence of its being completely worn out> broke, which obliged Mr. Puget to warp the veffel 17 95.J ROUND THE WORLD. 337 veffel nearer in fhore, and to moor to an anchor on the beach ; after which the anchor, with the remainder of the cable, was recovered. On-|^e Monday following, (the 27th) the carpenters finiflied ihe main yard, and it was got on board and rigged, the caulkers had nearly finilhed their bufinefs ; and, as I was very anxious to take our departure, I gave orders for the obfervatory and inftruments to be received on board, and the veffels to be made ready for proceeding to fea the firft favourable opportunity. It was not, however, until Tuefday the 5 th of May, that we had fufficient wind to encourage us to unmoor, which .was done about fix in the morning, with a light breeze of wind from the fouth; but this foon dying away, we returned nearly to the place from whence we had come. On a frefh breeze fpring- ing up, about noon the next day, from the fouth and S. by W., we unmoored, and after faluting the fort with thirteen guns, (which wTere equally returned) and taking our leave of Governor Alava, and the reft of our very hofpitable friends at Valparaifo, we made fail from the port, in company with the Chatham and a Spanifli brig and fchooner. The trade of this port is carried on in fhips from two hundred and fifty to {even hundred tons burthen ; in which is annually exported to Lima about fifteen thoufand. tons of wheat and Vol. VI. Z wheat- 339 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MAY, wheat-flour, large quantities of fmall cordage, dried fait filh, and apples, pears, and peaches, in g^eat abundance. All goods imported are landed on a {oft fandy bank lying before the cuftom^ houfe, and from thence carried into trie ware- houfes, or removed to diftant parts of the country on the backs of mules ; by which conveyance the articles for exportation are in like manner brought dowm to the fhore. Moft kinds of vegetables, and a great variety of fruits, as well thofe "of the northern parts of Europe, as thofe common in the tropical countries, were here procured in great plenty, were all excellent of their kinds, and were very cheap: the water was extremely good, though the mode of obtaining it was fomewhat tedious, as we were obliged to fill our cafks from pipes of a fmall bore, through which it was conducted from the refervoir in the market-place down to the water-fide. Although there was no perceptible current in the bay, the rife and fall of the tide was evidently about three feet. Afronomical and Nautical Obfervations, On the 27th of March, 17Q5, Kendalfs chronometer, according to the laft rate, fhewed the longitude to be — 287° 46' 50" Arnold's No. 14, — 287 53 35 Ditto 170, — 280 30 50 The 17Q5.] ROUND THE WORLD. 33Q The true longitude, as afcertained at the ob- fervatory, by 39 fets of lunar diftances, was 288 52A •By which it appears, that Kendall's chronometer was 42; 2"; Arnold's No. 14, 35' 17"; and Arnold's No. 17O, 1° 58* 2ff to the weftward of true longitude. By equal altitudes, taken on the 26th of April, 17Q5, Kendall's chronometer was found to be faft of mean time at Greenwich, on that day at noon, — — 10h5Q/ 23" \5"f And to be gaining on mean time, per day, at the rate of 29 34 Arnold's No. 14, faft of mean time, at Greenwich, ditto 0 15 10 15 And to be gaining on mean time, per day, at the rate of 25 10 Arnold's No. 1/0, faft of mean time at Greenwich, ditto 13 28 33 15 And to be gaining on mean time, per day, at the rate of 58 57 The latitude of the obferva- tory, by twelve meridional altitudes of the fun was found to be — 33°V30tl The variation, by two different compaffes, and by fix fets of obfervations on each, 14°4Qr eaft- wardly. Z a The mm 340 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MAY, The vertical inclination of the magnetic needle : Marked end North, face Eaft, 44° 57* Ditto, ditto, Weft, 44 40 Ditto, South, face Eaft, 43 45 Ditto, . ditto, Weft, 43 40 Mean inclination of the marine dipping needle, — 44 15 CHAP. 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD, CHAPTER VI. 341 'Quit Valparaifo—Proceed to the Southward—Pafs to the South of Cape Horn—Ufelefs Search for the I/la Grande—Part Company with th$$hatham— Arrive at St, Helena—Join the CIiathamffKere— Leave St. Helena—Capture the Macafhar Dutch Eaft Indiaman—Proceed to the Northvbard— Difc6ver a Number of Veffels' ittiHer Convoy of his Majefty s Ship Sceptre—Join the Convoy, and preceed with it to the Shannon—Difcovery proceeds from thence to the River Thames,—Afro- nomical and Nautical Obfervations, TAVING appointed with Mr. Puget our next rendezvous to be at St. Helena, with a frefh breeze varying between S. S. W. and S. by E. we left the bay of Valparaifo, Thurfday the 7th, and paffed the point of Angels, fleering to the W. S. W. The weather was clear and pleafant, yet a heavy fwell from the S. S. W. indicated very boiflerous weather in that quarter; the wind, however, continued to blow a gentle gale from the fouth-weftern quarter, with which we made confiderable progrefs. From the extremely worn-out ftate of our fails, the foretop- Z 3 maft m m\ 342 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MAY maft flayfail fplit, and on a furvey of our other fails and cables, we were under the neceffity of condemning a beft bower c^ble, a foretopfail, and maintopmaft flayfail, which were unbent, and replaced by others that could fcarcely be confidered to be in a much more ferviceable c$n~ dition. The obferved latitude, on Saturday the Qth9 was found to be 33° 2l' fouth, the longitude, by Arnold's chronometer, No. 14, 282° 5'; by No. 1 70, 282° 30' 30"; by Kendall's, 282° & 45y/; and by the dead reckoning 282° 257 ; the variation of the compafs 13° 15/ eaftwardly. The wind veered for a few houjrs to the north-weft, and blew a frefh gale, with which we directed our courfe towards the S. S. E. until it returned to its former fouth-weftern quarter, when we fhould have been able to have made great progrefs to the fouth ward, had we not been repeatedly under the neceffity of fhorteinjig fail for the Chatham, which was far a-ftern. Some ©§trels, and fix or eight pintados, were feen about the fhip on Tuefday the 12tb, and two days afterwards feversal large albatroffes wrere obferved ^t no great difhynce. The weajSber continued to be pleafant until Tuefday> the Hjth, when the wind changed to the north-weft, and was attended by very thick difagreeable fqually weather. Our courfe was again directed to the S. S. E. \ and 3^95-] ROUND THE WORLD. 343 and it gave me concern that we w^ere not able to avail ourfelves of this favourable wind, without riffcing a feparation from the Chatham; for, notwithftanding the additional quantity of ballait which fhe had taken on board at Valparaifo, fhe~ did not appear to be improved in her failing: about noon her fignal was made with a gun to make more fail. The wind increafed from the w7eft and north-weft, accompanied by very heavy fqualls of hail and rain; in the courfe of the night falfe fires were burnt, to denote our fituation to our confort, and on the next forenoon, Wednesday the 20th, her fignal was again repeated to make more fail; but as we ftill kept increafing our diftance from her, about noon I ordered the mainfail to be hauled up, and a reef taken in each of the topfails. At this time, in latitude 50° 50' fouth; longitude, by Arnold's No. 14, 280° 33' 45"; by No. 1 70, 281° 32' 30"; by Kendall's chronometer 280° 25' 30"; and by the dead reckoning 281° 11' ; the variation of the compafs was obferved to be 17°eaft- wardly ; and cape Noir to bear by compafs, according to the Spanifh charts, S. 42 E. diftant 100 leagues, but, by our calculations, it bore by compafs S. 40 E. and was at the diftance of 107 As we proceeded to the fouthward the wxather gradually changed for the worfc, and the wind, Z4 which, •fr*M 344 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVErV [MAY, which, with little interruption, had hitherto been agreeable to our willies, now became turbulent, and blew at times in very heavy fquails ; in one of thefe, about three o'clock on Friday afternoon, the 22nd, we carried away the maintopfail Iheet: this obliged us to take in the fail ; on the gale increafing the foretopfail was furled ; and, fearful of any ferious accident, either to our main-yard or maft, I directed the mainfaii to be taken in, and the topgallant yards and mafts to be ftruck, in order that the weak parts might be ftrained as little as could be helped ; about an hour afterwards, the flarboard bumkin was alfo carried away, and the wind at W. S. W. continued to blow with great violence until midnight, when it became fome what more moderate, and we were enabled to fet the mainfaii and ftorm flayfail. Falfe fires were burnt during the night as fignals to the Chatham. Towards the next morning, Saturday the 23d, after lowering the topfails, and hauling up the mainfaii, in a heavy fquall of wind and hail, we wore the fhip, to wait for our confort. In the afternoon, although the wind continued nearly from the fame quarter, the weather became more moderate, and we were able to get up our topgallant yards and mafts, and to make the beft of our way towards, the fouth, directing our courfe as much to the eaftward as the variation of the wind would pert mit? 1795.J ROUND THE WORLD. 345. mit. This favourable change, however, was not of long duration ; for, in the afternoon ofMon- day the 25th, on the.wind veering to the weft and north-weft, we were obliged to clofe-reef the fore and maintopfails, and take in the mizen- topfail. The gale continued to increafe with {o much violence, that, by feven o'clock on Tuefday morning the 20th, we were under the ne-: ceflity of handing our topfails, and getting the topgallant yards and mafts down upon deck, to relieve the mafts, and to make the fhip as fnug as poflible. The obferved latitude at noon was 50° 4' fouth ; by Arnold's chronometer No. 14, the longitude appeared to be 285° 52' 30"; by No. 17O, 280° 55' ; by Kendall's, 285° 321 J5"* and by the dead reckoning 280° 33', According to obfervations which had been procured in the two preceding days, it appeared, that the dead reckoning had erred thirteen miles in latitude, and twenty-five miles in longitude, the fhip having been fet fo far to the north-eaftward. The wind continued to blow very hard, varying between W. S. W. and W. N. W. until towards the evening, when it altered to the eaft, and E. S. E. brought with it a very heavy fall of fnow, and blew fo violently, that our weather maintopfail fheet gave way, and obliged us to take in the fail. About fix o'clock the next morning, Wednefday the 27th, the wind again chansred Mm 34^' A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [MAY, changed to the S. W. and the weather became fufficiently moderate and clear to get up the topgallant yards and mafts, and to fet our reefed topfails. Notwithftanding that at this time there was no great preffure on any part of the tigging, fo extremely rotten and decayed were our principal ropes and fails, that our flarboard maintop- fail flieet broke, the gib-boom fnapped fhort off about the middle, and the wind fplit the mizen- topfail. Juft before nine o'clock in the forenoon, an ifland was feen bearing by compafs N. i5 W. which at firft we fuppofed to be Diego Ramirez; but as that is reprefented by former navigators to be a fingle ifland in the latitude of 50° 38' fouth, longitude 2Ql° 34' ; as the land in fight foon put on the appearance of being much broken ; as we had foundings about two in the afternoon at the diftance of three leagues in the depth of eighty O X G J fathoms, in the latitude of 50° 28' fouth, longitude 2Q1° 23;; and as captain Cook had paffed between the iflands of St. Ildefonfo and Tierra del Fuego, in the latitude of 55° 53' fouth, longitude 2QO° 1Q''; I had every reafon to believe that we had been miltaken, and that the land we had feen at nine o'clock wras St. Ildefonfo's ifles, which at this time bore by compafs W. S. W. the wind was lefs boiiterous on the fucceeding day, Thurfday the 28th, but the weather continued to be unpleafant, being very dark and ROUND THE WORLD. flm !47 avy ihowers or inow f -Cnr 1795.2 gloomy, with frequent hea About eleven o'clock at night, in a fquall of hail, rain, and fnow, the maintopfail was fplit and was replaced by another, which although whole and the beft we had, wa$ in a very unferviceable condition. Notwithftanding the fnow continued to fall fo very heavily that no obfervation for the latitude could be procured, yet by four double altitude of the fun taken by two perfons with different inftruments, the latitude was found to be 50° $%\; the longitude carried on by the dead reckoning, and corrected by Arnold's chronometer No. 14, appeared to be 2Q'3° 3Qf, and the variation of the. compafs 23° eaftwardly. Confidering that we were now fufficientiy ad^ vanced to the fouthward to avoid any inconvenience or interruption from the iflands.which lie off cape Horn, I determined to fliape fuch a i^cH^rfe to the north-eaftward, as we proceeded in our route to St. Helena, as might afford me an opportunity of feeing and determining the fituation of the Ifla Grande, the fouthern point of which is ftated to be in latitude 45° 30', longitude 313° 20'. On Friday the 30th we were again vifited by ftrong gales and heavy fqualls of wind from the weft and north-weftern points, which frequently reduced us to our courfes; as wc proceeded towards the north-eaft, the latitude by aWl 348 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JUNE, by an indifferent obfervation appeared to be 55° 281, and the longitude at noon brought forward- by Arnold's chronometer No. 14, was according to the dead reckoning 2QQ° Q'. On Monday the ift of June, about fix in the morning, I ordered the foretopfail to be taken in, for the purpofe of allowing the Chatham to come up-with us, as fhe w^as at this time far aftern. At day-light the next morning, Tuefday the 2d, flie was in fight from the main top, but not from the deck. Our latitude on Thurfday the 4th, by the dead reckoning fince the preceding day being 46a 16', and the longitude brought forward by Arnold's chronometer No. 14, 310° 8', it was reafonable to conclude, as we had a frefh breeze from the weft and fouth-weft, that we were approaching very rapidly towards Ida Grande ; and as I was very folicitous to examine the fpace allotted to this ifland, I continued our courfe to the northward, that we might fall into its parallel fome leagues to the weftward of the fpot affigned to it; but in the afternoon we were again vifited by a very furious ftorm at firft from the N. W. but foon ^afterwards from the S. W. which obliged us to fleer to the eaftward, under the forefail and clofe-reefed maintopfail on the cap, in order that we might keep a-head of the fea which ran exceffively high, and. broke with great violence. 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 349 violence. Under this reduced canvas, we out- failed the Chatham fo much as to lofe fight of her. The fouth-weft gale continued to blow very hard until the morning of Friday the 5th, when it moderated, and was attended by clear, though feverely cold weather. We now7 flood to the northward, and had the pleafure of rejoining the Chatham. At noon our obferved latitude was 45°.30/, longitude 312° 55'; in this fituation I efteemed it to be a very fortunate circumftance that the weather was fine, and that the horizon was remarkably clear in all directions, excepting between the N. W. and N. N. E.; fothat had any land been above our horizon within the dif- ftance of from ten to twenty leagues, it could not J G ' poffibly have efcaped our notice. Between the limits above-mentioned, which were occupied by a haze, we could alfo have difcerned land at the diftance of five or fix leagues, and as it was in this direction that we were fleering, we muft have fallen in with it had any land there exifted. From noon our courfe was directed about N. by E. which by eight in the evening brought us to the latitude of 45° 41, longitude 313° 3'. The weather continued to be tolerably clear until the clofe of the day, but no land was within our view, nor had we the leaft reafon, from any of the ufual indications, to fuppofe ourfelves in its vicinity, m 350 A VOYAGE :0Tfr DISCOVERY [jUNE/ nity, excepting from- the numbers of birds that were about the fhip. According to Mr. ArrowTfmith's comprehenfive chart, (in which the Ifla Grande is placed agreeably to the affigned fituation of it by Mr. Dairy m pie,) the track of Dr. Halley is laid down about a degree to the weftward of our path, crof- fing the fame parallel in the longitude of about 311° 55'; from which circumftance it is probable, that thofe on board that veffel faw a con- fiderable to the weftward of them. Since therefore we met with no drift wood, nor other circumftance to indicate our vicinity to lend; (and had any been near to us in a wefl> wardly direction, fuch indications moft likely would, from the generally prevailing winds, have been prefented to us), I was led to conclude, that if M. La Roche did difcover any ifland under the parallel of 45° fouth, that fuch land muft have been to the eaftward of our track. Under this perfuafiorr, about eight in the evening, as the weather had the appearance of being fine, and the wind moderate, I fleered a more eaft wardly courfe, with an intention, fhould the winds prove favorable, to continue about this parallel until we fhould pafs the meridian -of South Georgia; from the fhores of which ifland, it is with great reafon fuppofed, La Roche fleered to rl 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 351 to the north, and in that route fell in with Ilia Grande. It is therefore moll likely, that if any fuch land has exiftence, it will be found not very far remote from the fituation affigned to it by Captain Cook; a fact I was very defirous ofv eftablifhing. On Saturday morning the Oth, although the weather was gloomy, with the wind from the north, yet it admitted of ouc feeing diftinctly all around us for feveral leagues ; we- continued to ftand to the eaftward until four in the afternoon, when in latitude 45° 07 fouth, longitude 314° 50', the atmofphere was fufficiently clear to have {een any land above our horizon at the diftance of fix or eight leagues, but nothing of the kind was within the limits of our view. The wind now veered to the.N. E. and eaft, and blew a frefh gale, with which we flood to the north, in the -night to the S. E. and on the following morning, O O o' Sunday the 7th, to the S. S. E. and fouth, fo that we were unable to regain the parallel of 45° without employ more time than I had now to ap propriate to this examination; being, from the extremely bad condition of our fails and rigging very anxious to loofe no opportunity of making the beft of our way to St. Helena; and for this reafon I gave up all further thought of fearching for Ifla Grande the N.'N.'E. id continued our courfe towards This Pwl I 352 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY fjUNtf This fhort invelligation, however, will ferve to fliew that no fuch ifland exifts in or about the latitude of 45° fouth, between the meridians 312° and 315° 20' of eaft longitude ; and that, as I have already mentioned, Dr. Halley moft likely determined the fame point, namely, that there was no fuch ifland, a degree further to the weftward. At midnight the Chatham was clofe along fide of us, but by four o'clock the next morning, Monday the 8th, fhe was nearly out of fight aftern of the Difcovery, our mainfaii and topgallant-fails wrere therefore taken in to wait for her nearer approach ; at day-light fhe was {een about three miles aftern, and having at this time a fteady frefh gale with fair weather, her fignal was made to make more fail, and repeated with a gun feveral times until about ten o'clock, when the Chatham neither making fail, nor exhibiting any reafon indicative of her wanting affiftance, I concluded that fome caufe of no very ferious nature had retarded her progrefs; and juft as we had fet our fludding fails, I had. the plea- fure to fee her employed in the fame bufinefs alfo. Shortly after noon the wind veered to the S. W. and having increafed our diftance from the Chatham v< ry vnfi fiderably, we fhortened fail to wait for her coming up, concluding that fhe w 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 353 fhe would foon overtake us under ,pur then reduced quantity of canvas. In thefe expectations however we were difappointed; at ten at night the wind had again frefhened from the N. N. W, ; we now burnt a falfe fire to denote our fituation to our confort, but this was not anfwered, and by two the next morning, Tuefday the Qth, the wind veered to the weflward, and blew a very ftrong .gale, (J^f/ng whijch, left we fhould lofe the Chatham, we hauled up the mainfaii and clofe-reefed the topfails; but as at day-light fhe w7as not in fig^t from the malt-head, and as I did not kngw in wj^t direction to" fearch for her, I could not but confider the inferiority of her idling had at length completed our feparation, and in the hope that we fhould meet ail wrell at St. Helena, our next rendezvous, we made the beft of our way thither, by continuing our courfe to the north-eaftward. The obferved latitude at noon was 30° 4 51, longitude according to Arnold's chronometer No. 14, 324° 43', and the variation, of the compafs 0° eaftwardly. The wind continued to blow very hard at times, attended by heavy rains, and thick cloudy fqually weather, in which our fails frequently fplit, and our topfail-lheets and other effential parts of the rigging gave way, until Saturday the 20th, when it became more moderate, and in latitude 34 38/ fouth, longitude 347° 10', brought forward by Vol. VI. A a Arnold's. 334 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jULY, Arnold's chronometer No. 14, the fhip appeared to have been fet twenty-five miles of latitude towards the north, and thirty-four miles of longitude towards the eaft of the reckoning. About half paft five o'clock on Sunday morning the 21 ft, Richard Jones, one of the feamen, unfortunately fell overboard from the main chains and was drowned. The accident had no fooner happened than a grating was thrown overboard, arid the fhip was inftantly hove to, for the purpofe of affording him every afliftance; but this was to no effect, for the poor fellow funk immediately, and was never more feen. By this melancholy event the fervice loft a very able feaman, and his comrades a good member of their fociety. On the following day at noon, Monday the 22d, in latitude 32° 3' fouth, longitude 351° 15', it appeared that the fhip was nine miles of latitude to the northward, and twenty-five miles of longitude to the eaftward of our reckoning ; and that the variation of the compafs.by two fets of azimuths was now 11° 20l weftwardly. The eaftwrardly variation feemed to have ceafed about the lOth of June, as in latitude 35° 43' fouth, longitude 232° 5!, it had decreafed to 1 &, and fince that period the weft- erly variation had been gradually increafing as we proceeded to the northward. No circumftances of importance, or fuch as are 17Q5.] ROUND THE WORLD. 355 are worthy to be recorded, took place, until about two oclock in the afternoon of Thurfday the 2d of July, when after experiencing tolerably pleafant weather for the preceding ten days, the ifland of St. Helena was difcovered bearing by compafs N. by E.; about eight in the evening we fhortened fail, and hauled our wind on the ftarboard tack, as the now extended by compafs from N. 3 W. to N. 35 W. at the diftance of about five leagues ; at day-light the next morniftg, Friday the$d, we made fail for St. Helena bay, and about fix o'clock we had the happinels of difbwering the Chatfe&m in the fouth-eaftern quarter. As we were now fall approaching a port from whence it w&s reafonable to expect that opportunities would frequently occur, during the time of our re-equipment there, to communicate with our friends in England, I deemed it expedient that the order fhould be publicly read, which I had received from the Lords of the Admiralty, directing me to demand the log books and journals which had been kept, and the charts, drawings, &c. which had been executed by the officers, petty officers, and gentlemen on board the Difcovery ; and directing alfo, that I fhould enjoin them and the whole of the crew not to divulge where tbeyhad been, until they fliould have permiffion fo to do : and a copy of this order was fent to Mr. Puget/ with my di- A a 2 rections- 350 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JU^Y» rections to enforce the fame on board the Chatham alfo. As we approached the bay of St. Helena, I had the mortification to fee a fleet of large fhips flanding out, and apparently bound to the northward. This fleet I confidered to be from the Eaft Indies, and that it was moft probably bound to England, under the protection of which 1 fhould have, been happy to have performed the remainder of our voyage ; for we were in no fituation to contend with the enemy's fhips of equal force, nor to have efcaped from thofe of fuperior weight of metal. At half paft eight o'clock we anchored in 10 fathoms water, and moored with a cable each way. In the bay of St. Helena we found the Arnifton Eaft India- man, and an American bring. After faluting the fort with thirteen guns, which were returned, accompanied by Mr. Puget^jl paid my compliments to the governor, and underftood from him, that the fleet of fhips which? jye had feen depart from the ifland as we hadja|>proached it in the morning, was, as I had imagined, a fleet of Eaft Indiamen, together with feveral fail of Dutch prizes under the convoy of His Majefty's fhip Sceptre, commanded by Captain Effington. I was received by the governor of St. Helena with his accuftomed politenefs, and having underftood from him that hoftilities had taken place T* 1795»] ROUND THE WORLD. 357 .place between the Court of London, and the United States of Holland, I fent an officer on board a Dutch Eaft Indiaman which I had perceived to be coming into the bay, and took pof- feflion of her as a prize. The great plenty of excellent refrefhments with which we had been fupplied during our refidence amongft our very hofpitable friends at Valparaifo, had not only eradicated every appearance of the fcurvy before our departure from that port, but had fo completely re-eftablifhed the health of every individual on board (myfelf excepted) that although we had now been fifty- eight days at fea, during which time we had experienced much bad weather, particularly in that part of the paffage as we had approached the weftern coaft of Patagonia, and until we had paffed round cape Horn and proceeded fome diftance to the north-eaftward; and had alfo been obliged to make great exertions, and to endure great fatigue, owing to the repeated accidents that had befallen our fails and rigging, and the additional labour at the pumps confequent on the leak in the fore part of the veffel; I had the inexpreffible happinefs of feeing all my officers and men return to a Britilh fettlement, after an abfence from England of more than four years and a quarter, perfectly well in health, and with conftitutions apparently unimpaired by the ex- A a 3 tremely 358 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jULY, tremely laborious fervice in which they had been fo long employed, and to which without a murmur they had, at all times, and in all weather, uniformly fubmitted with great zeal and alacrity. Notwithftanding that I had the additional fa- tisfaction to hear, from Mr. Puget, that the crew of the Chatham were now in a convalefcent ftate, yet I was much concerned to become acquainted that their health, as well as that of the officers, had fuffered very materially indeed in their late paffage from Valparaifo. Although, previoufly to our departure from that port, every precaution within our power had been taken to make both veffels as equal as it were poffible to the talk, which they had to perform at the then advanced feafon of the year, through fo tempefi- tuous and inhofpitable a region ; yet the fmall- nefs of the Chatham had made her .more liable to the influence of the bad weather than the Difcovery, and this will ferve to account for her progrefs having been fo very frequently interrupted, for fixteen days together Mr. Puget had been under the neceffity of keeping in the dead lights, and from the violence of her motion h^r decks and fides had become open and fo leaky, that his people were conftantly in a wet humid ftate when they retired from the deck, on which, previowfly to their making cape Horn, five 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 35Q five men only in a watch were able to do duty; the reft being rendered incapable of it by rheumatic complaints. Veffels of the Chatham's fize fhould certainly make choice of the fummer feafon to infure a good paffage round the fouthern promontory of America; for although the prevailing winds in the winter months of May, June, and July, may expedite their voyage, yet this advantage is more than counterbalanced by the fhortnels of the days, the feverity of the climate, and the very ftormy weather which is attendant on this time of the year ; this Mr. Puget represented as having had the effect of keeping the Chatham, comparatively fpeaking, almoft under water during the greater part of the paffage, in which he ftated, that nothing of importance had occurred fince the period of our feparation, and that the reafon why our laft fignals were not anfwered on the night of the 8th of June, was/ that the fupply of falfe fire on board the Chatham was at that time totally expended. From Mr. Puget I alfo underftood, that in and about the latitude affigned to La Roche's ilia Grande, the Chatham, like the Difcovery, had been vifited by a great number of birds, which, with fome fea weed, were the only indications he had noticed of the vicinity of land. My firft care was to take fuch precautions on our at St. Helena, as were molt lively to A a 1 efficacious 300 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVHUY [JULY, efficacious in preferving to the crews of both veffels that ineftimable bleffing, health, of which, on board the Difcovery, we were in fuch complete enjoyment. For this purpofe fome t^iffc. provifions were procured from the ifland, and occafionally ferved to both fhip's companies, with a plentiful fupply of efculent vegetables; the con- valefcents from the Chatham were fent on fhore, and fuch regulations w7ere adopted as appeared to be, in my judgment, moft likely to infure this definable object; which, at all times, and on all occafions, throughout the voyage, had been a confideration with me of the firft neceffity and higheft importance. After thefe arrangements were made, the ob- fervatory, as ufual, was committed to the charge of Mr. Whidbey; and now that the fhip was ftationary, the carpenters were employed in fearching for the leak in the fore part of the veffel, which, at times, during our late paffage from Valparaifo, had greatly increafed our labours, by our efforts to keep the fhip free from the great quantity of water which it admitted, Notwithftanding that our main yard had, by great care and attention, brought us fafely thus far, yet, as I found it would be poffible to procure a new one at St. Helena, rneafures were inftantly taken for replacing it with one, on which we could more fecurely depend ; whilft other parts of the crew r 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD, 3(31 crew were employed in the neceffary duties about the fhip, and in obtaining a full fupply of water. According to our reckoning, this day was Monday the 6th of July, but at St. Helena we found it (agreeably to our calculations) to be only Sunday the 5th of July: for, by our having failed round the world, in an eaftern direction, we had, fince our departure from England, gained one day ; but as it was now become expedient that we fhould fubfcribe to the eftimation of time, as underftood by Europeans and the reft of the civilized world, to which we were now faft approaching, our former reckoning was abandoned, the day we had gained dropped, and after noon this day, we recommenced Sunday the 5 th of July, His Majefty's fhip the Sphinx, commanded by Captain Brifac, arrived on Tuefday, charged with difpatches from Admiral Sir George Keith Elphinftone, (now Lord Keith,) to General Clarke at St. Salvador, on the coaft of Brazil, who, with his army, was waiting at that port, until he fhould receive inftructions from Sir George that might enable him to co-operate with that admiral in the reduction of the cape of Good Hope. A convoy, I underftood, wras foon expected to fail from St. Salvador, and as I had reafon to believe the Chatham's re-equipment would not take more than a week, I determined to 3&2 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JULY, to fend her thither for the purpofe of going with the firft convoy which fliould fail from thence to England, and that I would be content to remain here unt 1 'ome Britifh veffel of force fliould touch at St. Helena in her way home, or that the next convoy from the Eaft Indies fhould arrive, under the protection of which, I fhould hope fafely to arrive in England in the courfe of the autumn. As the fervice which Captain Brifac had to perform required the utmoft difpatch, our boats aflifted thofe of the Sphinx in recruiting her water, after which, on the following day, Tuefday the 7 th, fhe immediately failed for the coaft of Brafio I nderftanding that our field-pieces would be of ufe to His Majefty's forces on the coaft of Africa,and confidering that the purpofe for which they had originally been put on board the Difcovery was now completely ferved, and that they could not be of the leaft poffible fervice to us in performing the remainder of our voyage to England, 1 availed myfelf of the Arnifton being engaged to carry troops from St. Helena to the fquadron under Admiral Sir George Keith El- phinftone, to conlign, by that conveyance, the four pieces of ordnance, and the remaining parts of the ammunition we had on board, to the commanding officer of the expedition deftined againft the cape of Good Hope ; and, on Friday the If 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 363 the 10th, I was made happy on this occafion to have it alfo in my power to affift with our boats in the embarkation of the troops on board the Ar- nifton. The leak was foon difcovered to be in the bows of the Difcovery, and our carpenters were immediately employed in ufing their beft endeavours to flop and prevent any further inconvenience from it. On Sunday morning arrived the Orpheus of London, commanded by Mr. Bowen, to whom were entrufted duplicates of thofe difpatches from Admiral Sir George Keith Elphinftone, with which Captain Brifac had failed on the 8th, with directions to the governor of St. Helena to ufe his utmoft endeavours to forward them immediately to General Clarke at St, Salvador. The Chatham at this time being nearly ready for fea, I confidered that it would be furthering his Majefty's fervice to charge Mr. Puget with the care of thefe duplicate difpatches, with which, after receiving the following order from me, he departed for the coaft of Brafil the following day, Monday the 13th. " Confidering it to be expedient, and for the good of His Majefty's fervice, that you fhould proceed immediately to St. Salvador, in order to carry fome difpatches Rear Admiral the Honourable Sir George Keith Elphinftone, to Major 364 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY fjtflJLY, Major-General Clarke, commander of his M$£ jetty's forces, deftined to act v$th the faid rear- admiral ; and the faid major-general having been directed to rendezvous at St. Salvador; you are hereby required and directed to proceed, WMiout lofs of time, to the faid port, in order to deliver the inclofed difpatches accordingly ; and, after having performed that fervice, you will communicate to the commanding officer of his Majefty's naval forces at that port, the nature of the fervice on which you have been employed*, and that you have my directions, after delivering the faid difpatches, to ufe your utmoft exertions, for the purpofe of immediately proceeding to England, that you may be enabled to Carry into effect fuch further orders as you have received from me. But fliould you not meet with any naval officer, fenior to yourfelf, at that port, you will inform Major-General Clarke, that I conceive it to be a matter of great moment, that as little detention as poflible fliould take place to retard your proceeding to England, as before expreffed. If, before your arrival at the port of St. Salvador, the faid troops and fquadron fhould have departed, you are to ufe the utmoft precaution not to promulgate the caufe which carried you thither, but having, with all expedition, completed your water, &c. &c you are to proceed to England as already directed : and, as 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 363 as it is of the utafoft importance to prevent thefe orders, difpatches^ rand private Signals, frQflmdfefll ing into the hanctaxsf the endmy, you are to keep theffame in a leaden box, in order that tfyfej* may be thrdwfcfhto therfeapm cafe of capture. And $hatryon rntey avoid, asdrliuch as poflSble, 'falling in with the enemy's cirubrers, on your.approaaah* ing thercoaft of Europe, you will confider, as cttcurnftaitcfes may point out, of the propriety of pitocteedoig Bound thcnoirfth p^yhilfiJbelanfijSidadF tcrdthe firft db&vmierrt port on thei coaft of Scotland or England, .which you can make; frojai lybcnfte, you will ipatoediately repair to the Admiralty office, and there deliver the difpatehei with which you are charged. " But in the event of your reaching St. Sfefe J G vador before Generab Clarke fliould have arrived! and. finding no other Britifh officer there with whom you may judge it proper to entrnft the difpatches committed to your care ; you are to eontmue there fourteen days, and after the expiration of that time you are to proceed as herein t*efore directed ; for which this fhall be your order. Dated on board his Majefty's floop Dift covery, in St. Helena bay, this 12th of July,' l$Q5. George Vancouver.'* To Lieutenant Peter Puget, hmmandin* His Mfy*ftfs armed tendenCfoitJitimJ 366 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jULY, Previoufly to Mr. Puget's departure from St- Helena, we wrere given to underftand, by Mr. Bowen, that it had been decreed, by the national affembly of France, that the Difcovery and Chatham fliould pafs the feas unmolefted by the French cruizers, notwithftanding the exifting war between the two countries. This agreeable intelligence induced me to alter the plan which I had formed of waiting at this ifland for convoy. The E$t India fhips, under the protection of the Sceptre, had not yet been faited {o \bwgpfrorri St. Helena, as to diveft me intirely of the hope that we might overtake them, before they fhould have reached thofe latitudes in wiiich we fhould be likely to meet with any thing unpleafant ffobi the enemy's fhips of foroeya in confequence of their commanders being unacquainted with the national decree in our favor, or in the event of any new matter having arifen between the powers at war to caufe its being revoked. Every effort was therefore now made to expedite Quire-equipment ; the main yard, by the affiftance of the carpenters belonging to the Arnifton, was likely to be ready in the courfe of a day or two, in which time, I had reafon to believe, our own artificers would have flopped the leak in the ihip's bows; and as I entertained hopes that* foon after this fervice fliould be performed, the Difcovery would, in all other refpects, be fit for fea, 179$*] ROUND THE WORLD. 3$/ fea, I determined to fail immediately, and not to wait for the uncertain arrival of any other veffel, which might afford us protection during the remainder of our voykfps to England. The fupply of vegetables which St. Helena? afforded us was very ample; but fruits of all Mh§£ were found to be extremely fcarce, owing to the want of rain. So fevere and continuednad been the drought for the three preceding years, that moft of the trees, which were not ifti^^Sfdus to the country, had withered and fallen into dedatyvl and amongft the exotics that had died were ' {ix plants of the bread fruit, which had been left by CaptaiOTBiigh on his return in the Providence from the iflands in the Pacific Ocean. The iofs of thefe valuable plants was very much regretted, as they appeared to thrive, and- it was hoped*1 would have come to perfection. The herbage had Tuffered alfo in the fame proportion, and, in the courfe of the period above mentioned, upwards of fixteen hundred head of cattle fed died upon the ifland. The flieep were: vdry lean and poor, and the quantity of frefh provifions that could be obtained was by no means equal to the fupply I could have wiflied to have procured. On Tuefday the 14th I had the pleafure to behold our new7 main yard in fuch a ftate of for- Wafdnefs that it would be ready to be got on board and rigged the following day, and I had the additional 368 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [JULY, additional fatisfaction of feeing, that by the unremitted attention of the refpective officers who had the fuperintendance of the feveral fervices which had become neceffary to be carried into effect, little elfe now remained to be done than to prepare the veffel for our departure. Much of my time, fince our arrival at St. Helena, had been employed about the concerns of the Dutch prize Macaffar, and in making the beft arrangements within my power, to fecure a fafe paffage for her to England. The fhip was in a very bad leaky condition, and although we were able to give her fome repair, yet it was totally out of our power to refit her, and put her in a proper ftate for fo long a voyage, efpecially as there was little chance of her reaching any Bri- tifh port before the commencement of the winter. Having, from long experience, been convinced of the fkill and refources which Lieutenant John- G@&e poffeffed, and which, on many trying oc- cafions throughout the voyage, he had eminently 4tfglayed, I derived great fatisfaction in committing the charge of the Macaffar to his care. For this efpecial purpofe he received my directions to quit the Chatham previoufly to her departure for St. Salvador ; and in addition to the people that were to be engaged at St. Helena, to navigate the prize home, I fpared, from the crew of the Difcovery, feventeen able feamen, on whofe exertions 1795] ROUND THE WORLD. 36^ exertions I could with confidence rely, to carry Mr. Johnftorie's orders, with promptitude, into effect. With this fupply of men on whom he could depend, and with the kind affurances which I received from Governor Brooke, that no affilt- anc'e in his power fliould be wanting in the manning and re-equipment of the prize, Ientertained great hope that, under the protection of the firft convoy that fhould arrive at St. Helena bound to England, little danger was to be apprehended of the Macaffar's fafe arrival, in fome port of Great Britaini In the bay of St. Helena, on the 4th of July> the chronometers fliewed the following longitudes : Arnold's No. 14, Ditto, 17O, Kendall's* The true longitude, By which it appeared that Arnold's chronometer, No. 14, was 9' 25", and Kendall's 1° 35' 25" to the weftward, and that Arnold's No. 176 was 1° q' 5" to the eaftward of the true longitude : and, by altitudes taken on this day, the 14th 'j j of July, Arnold's No. 14 was found at noon to be flow of mean time At Greenwich, - lfh 10' 42" 50'" And to be gaining on mean time, per day, at the rate of 24 50 Vol. VI. B b Arnold's 354° 1' 35" 355 20 5 352 35 5 354 11 0 I* Jlf 20 28 22 370 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jULY, Arnold's No. 17O, flow of mean time at Greenwich, gh 18/ 2Qfl 501 And to be gaining on mean time, per day, at the rate of 57 Kendall's flow of mean time at Greenwich - 12 15 And to be gaining on mean time, per day, at the rate of On Wednefday the 15 th I had the pleafure of receiving our new main yard on board, it was immediately rigged, and the fhip in every other refpect made ready to proceed to fea. After paying my refpefts to the governor, and returning him my beft thanks for his hofpitality and obliging attention to the neceffities of our little community whilft at St. Helena, I left Lieutenant Johnfton on board the Macaffar, with full directions in writing, by which he would be enabled to govern himfelf in conducting the veffel, of which he was put in charge to England, and about fix o'clock on the following evening, with a light breeze of wind from the S. E. we directed our courfe to the north-weftward, anxioufly looking forward to that happy hour which fhould once more land us amongft our refpective friends, from whofe fociety we had fuffered fo long and fo painful an abfence. The weather continued to be very pleafant, and we made great progrefs to thenorth-weftward. !3|/T . •■ On T 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 371 On Saturday the 25th we crofled the equator in longitude 21° 35; weft from Greenwnch, where the variation, by two fets of azimuths, was found to be g° 207 weftw^ardly. From this time nothing occurred worthy of remark until Wednefday the 5th of Auguft; when one of the Cape de Verd iflands was feen, bearing by compafs N. 10 E. The weather had continued to be very pleafant, and although the winds, fince the conclufion of the preceding month, had veered from the fouth-eaftern to the weft and north- weftern quarters, yet we had not been prevented from making our north-weftern courfe good, agreeably to my wifhes. Our people, ever nnce our departure from St. Helena, had been occafionally employed in mending the fails and rigging, and, on all fuitable opportunities, they had exercifed with the great guns and fmall arms; whilft the extremely pleafant weather which had attended us, had greatly contributed to our becoming well acquainted with the management of both. About four o'clock in the afternoon of Thurfi- day the 20th, three veffels were difcovered to the northward, and at eight in the evening eight fail were feen from the maft-head, bearing by compafs N. 8o W. All our canvafs was immediately fpread, in the hope of our being able to overtake them; being in great hopes that the veffels in B b 2 fight 8 a 372 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUG^ fight wrould prove to be the convoy which had left the bay of St. Helena on the morning of our arrival there; in the event of which, I fhould be happy to avail myfelf of the protection we fhould derive by accompanying fo ftrong a fleet to England. At day-light the next morning, Friday the 21ft, five fhips only were in fight from the matt-head, but at feven in the morning nine fail of large veffels were fo clearly difcerned as to leave in my mind no doubt of their being a part of the fleet for which we had kept fuch an anxious, though hitherto unfuccefsful, look out, under convoy of his Majefty's fhip Sceptre, commanded by Captain Effington. About five in the after- toon a boat, from the General Goddard Eaft- Indiaman, came on board, and confirmed us in the opinion we had art firft formed, and which every hour fince had ferved to ftrengthen, that the fleet before us was a convoy confifting of twenty-four fail of Indiamen, under the protection of the Sceptre. Upon receiving this information, I ordered a boat to be hoifted out, and I waited upon Captain Effington, by whom I was received with that unaffected hearty welcome, and unreferved fincerity, which are knowm by every one who has the happinefs of his friendfhip, to be the true type of his valuable character. After putting myfelf under Captain Effington's orders, and receiving fuch inftructions as were IJS ' deemed J795*] HOUND THE WORLD. 373 deemed to be neceffary by him, for the regulation of his Majefty's floop under my command, now attached to the fleet which he was convoying to England; I repaired on board the Difcovery, and by fpreading an additional quantity of canvafs, we foon had the pleafure of joining company with the Sceptre. The fatisfaction I experienced, in the protection we had derived by overtaking and uniting our little force with fo powerful a fleet, was greatly increafed by my now underfianding from Captain Effington, that he was of opinion the agreeable tidings communicated to me at St. Helena, by Mr. Bowen, of a French decree having paffed the national affembly, in favor of the Difcovery and Chatham, was premature, and that, in the event of our having unfortunately met with an enemy of fuperior force, to whom of neceffity we muft have yielded, we fhould have had little chance of efcaping the horrors of a French prifon, in addition to the cruel mortification o( lofing to our country much of the information which had been collected during the voyage. This reflection had the effect of reconciling my mind to the flow progrefs which I was now well aware would ne- celTarily be attendant on the conclufive part of our paffage to England. Having been fo fortunate hitherto, as to have loft only one man out of both veftels in confequence of difeafe, and as few by B b 3 accidents 374 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [AUG. accidents as I could reafonably have expected, when I duly confidered the length of our abfence from home, and the nature of the fervice on which we had been fo long employed ; I do con- fefs that, under the peculiar circumftances of our defencelefs fituation, I fliould have regarded it as a very painful talk to have been compelled to the neceffity of expofing my excellent officers and valubale crew, who were now, comparatively fpeaking, almoft within reach of the welcome embraces of their neareft and deareft affections, to a conflict with an enemy, whofe fuperiority in point of force we had not originally been fitted out to meet, nor were we but in a very humble way prepared to refift, and from whom, in point of failing, when I adverted to the fliattered condition of our mafts and rigging, I entertained no hope of our being able to efcape. I was, therefore, reconciled to the delays unavoidable in ef- corts of this nature, though they became greatly augmented by the deplorable condition of many of Captain Ellington's Dutch prizes, fome of which, I underftood, had been with great difficulty prevented from foundering. Although our progrefs wTas neceffarily much retarded, yet our time paffed pleafantly away, by having at length regained the power of devoting it, on all fuitable occafions, to the comforts of a friendly intercourfe with our furrounding countrymen, I7Q5.] ROUND THE WORLD. 375 try men, from the pleafiires of whofe fociety we had been fo long eftranged. Nothing very material occurred until Tuefday, 1 ft of September; when, after contending with a frefh gale from the north and north-weftern quarters, which had commenced the preceding day, and had been attended with fome heavy fqualls of wind and rain; about nine o'clock in the forenoon, in about the latitude of 40° 12' north, longitude 2g° 32' weft, one of the Dutch . prizes made a fignal of diftrefs : we immediately hove to, and I fent the cutter to her affiftance, but fhe was found to be almoft a wreck, and in fuch a deplorably bad condition that it was im~ poffible to fave her, and fhe was therefore abandoned, by order of Captain Effington, and fet on fire about fix o'clock in the evening. After performing this fervice our cutter returned to the fhip, and in the act of hoifting her on board fhe was by accident ftove intirely to pieces. I do not recollect that my feelings ever fuffered ib much on any occafion of a fimilar nature, as at this moment. The cutter was the boat I had conftantly ufed ; in her I had travelled very many miles; in her I had repeatedly efcaped from dan-* ger; (he had always brought me fafely home; and, although fhe was but an inanimate conve- niency, to which, it may poffibly be thought, no affection could be attached, yet I felt myfelf under B b 4 foeh 3/6 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [sEPT, fuch obligation for her fervices, that when fhe was dafhed to pieces before my eyes, an involun^. tary emotion fuddenly feized my breaft, and I was compelled to turn away to hide a weaknefs (for which, though my own gratitude might find an apology) I fhould have thought improper to have publicly manifefted. The wind changed on Saturday the 5th, from o J ~ the north-weft to the oppofite quarter, and blew a very hard gale, with fqualls chiefly from E.byS, about fix in the evening another of the Dutch prizes was obferved to have made the fignal of diftrefs. We were directed to give her affift^ ance ; and the relief we were enabled to afford her was very falutary, and had become effen^ tially neceffary, as we found her in a very leaky ftate, and.her crew in a very difabled fickly condition. The wind again veered to its former direction, and though ifofcbntinued to be fqually and unpleafant, it had been more moderate dur«? ing the two laft days ; in one of thefe from the north-weft, on Tuefday morning the 8th, about feven o'clock, we fprung our maintopmaft, an accident that might have been attended with the moft ferious confequences, had we not been in a fituation that afforded us the moft ample protection, and which I had no doubt we fhould be able to maintain until we fhould arrive in fome port of Great Britain, although our quantity of canvafs 1795-] ROUND THE WORLD. 3/7 canvafs fliould hereafter be materially reduced, as we had been repeatedly obliged to fhorten fail for the convoy. All the upper fails were taken in, the maft ftruck, and the carpenters immediately employed to remedy and provide for the difafter in the beft manner we were able; this bufinefs was completed about noon, and a top- maft with the topgallant rigging was again fet up. Notwithftanding that the weather was not very favourable to aftronomical purfuits, Mr, Whidbey procured fix fets, and Mr, Orchard three fets of lunar diftances, by the mean refult of which the true longitude, at noon, was found to be — — 20° 13' o" weft By Arnold's chronometer. No. 14, Ditto, 170, By Kendall's, ^- The obferved latitude Variation of the compafs, By our courfe having judicioufly been directed far to the weftward, it was moft probable that the coaft of Ireland would be the firft land in the Britifh dominions with which we fhould fall in. For thofe fhores, as the wind and other cir- cumftances had allowed, we had been fleering for feveral days, and as our diftance from England every day and every hour decreafed, fo our Jiappinefs became augmented in the grateful anticipation 20 14 5 weft 1Q 48 30 weft 20 0 30 weft 512 0 22 wefterly. i r 378 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [SEPT. ticipation of once more breathing our native air, once more repofing in the bofom of our country and expecting friends. Every breaft, as may be naturally imagined, was alive to fenfations of the moft pleafant nature, infeparable from the fond idea of returning home, after fo long an abfence, in an adventurous fervice to promote the general good, when unappalled by the confcioufnefs of deferved reproach. In the midll of thefe agreeable reflections, however, prefages of a melancholy eaft would frequently obtrude upon the mind, and damp the promifed joys in contemplation. Few of us had been bleffed with any tidings from our families or friends fince our laft feparation from them ; and in the courfe of fuch a lapfe of time what changes might not have taken place, what events might not have happened to difappoint our hopes; rob us of our prefent peace ; or cloud the funlhine of our future days! Thefe were confiderations of a moft painful nature, and tinged our joyful expectations with folicitude and apprehenfion ! At length, about five o'clock on Saturday morning the 12th, a fignal was made by one of the headmoft Ihips, that denoted fhe was within fight of land, and foon afterwards, from our maft-head, the glad tidings were announced that land w^as plainly to be feen, bearing by compafs E. S. E. At eleven in the forenoon it was known to 179^.] ROUND THE WORLD. 37Q to be the weftern coaft of Ireland, and arrangements were immediately made by the Sceptre for keeping the fhips together, and for entering the Shannon; where Captain Effington propofed to remain with his convoy until a force more equal to the protection cf the valuable fleet he had thus fafely brought into his Majefty's dominions, fhould arrive, to efcort it from thence to England. Having communicated to Captain Effington fuch parts of my orders from the Lords of the Admiralty, under which I had failed, as applied to the government of my conduct on the prefent occafion, 1 received his orders to repair immediately to London ; and the following day, Sunday the 13th, after having feen the Difcovery fafely moored, with the reft of the fleet, in the Shannon, and giving fuch inllructions, as circumfiances demanded, to my firft lieutenant Mr. Baker, in whofe zeal for the fervice, and abilities as an officer, a long experience juftified me in implicitly confiding; I refigned my command of the Difcovery into his hands, and with fuch books, papers and charts as had been pre- vioufly felected, as being effential to the illuftra- tion of the fervices we had performed, I took laave of my officers and crew; not, however, without emotions which, though natural, on parting with a fociety with whom I had lived fo teng, fliared fo many dangers, and from whom I iWi- 380 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [SEPT. had received fuch effential fervices, are yet more eafiiy to be imagined than I have the power to defcribe : and in the courfe of a few days I arrived at the Admiralty, where I depofited my feveral documents. Before I bid farewell to the Difcovery,* I muft beg leave to arreft the attention of my readers for a few minutes, for the purpofe of taking a fliort view of the geographical knowledge which had been obtained of the earth, previoufly to the expedition which I have had the honour to command, and the happinefs of bringing thus to a conclufion; and alfo to notice fuch parts of the globe as yet remain to be explored to make that fpecies of information complete. The effecting a paffage into the oriental feas round the cape of Good Hope, the difcovery of America, and the opening of a communication between the Atlan-* tic and Pacific Oceans, by palling either through the ftraits of Magellan, or round the iflands lying off the fouthern extremity of Tierra del Fuego, engaged the minds and utmoft exertions of the moft illuftrious navigators during the three laft centuries. Thefe enterprizes have been duly appreciated and juftly celebrated for the important lights they have throwm upon the fciences of geography and nautical aftronomy ; for the improvements they have caufed in the arts; * Arrived all well in the Thames the 20th of O&ober, \%95* for 17Q5.] ROUND THE WORLD. 38f for the commercial intercourfe which, by their means, has been opened and eftablilhed with all the maritime parts of the world ; and, laftly, for the happy introduction of civilization amongft numerous tribes of our fellow creatures. In the firft attempts to accomplifh thefe ex- tenfive objects, Great Britain took no part; but no fooner did fhe perceive the importance of which they were likely to be to her confequence and profperity as a maritime ftate, than her fpirit for the attainment of fuch valuable acquifitions to fcience became roufed. In the courfe of a very few years, no fuch effential benefits have been fecured to mankind, nor has fo much geographical knowledge been acquired, as fince the commencement of discovery undertaken, and fuccefsfully accomplilhed, by the unremitted la^ bours of Britifh navigators; whofe primary con- fiderations have been to direct their inquiries to objects of an ufeful nature, and to inveftigate and fupport the truth, by a plain narrative of thofe facts, which fell within the fphere of their obfer- vation, rather than to give encouragement, by the obtrufion of fpecious opinions, to hypothefes, however ingenious. In confequence of a ftrict adherence to this principle, the geography of the earth is now placed beyond the influence of conjecture, and is determined by fuch incontrovertible evidence, that the fmall fpaces that yet remain m 382 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [SEPT* remain unexplored in the Pacific or Indian oceans are too infignificant to become an object of en- terprize : there are, however, parts of the coafts, both of Alia and America, which wrould yet afford employment for the labourers in the fci- ence of discovery. The Afiatic coaft, from the latitude of about 35° to the latitude of 52° north is at prefent very ill defined ; and the American coaft, from about the latitude of 44° fouth, to the fouthern extremity of Tierra del Fuego, is like wife very little known ; and I entertain no doubt, had not our late examination on the coaft of North-Weft America, fo delayed our return to the fouthern hemifphere, as to prevent my carrying the orders I had received into effect, that I fliould have derived great latisfaction from a furvey and invefti- gation of the fliores of that interefting country. If, however, by that portion of his Majefty's commands, which I have had the honour to execute, it fhall appear that a decifion may asjuftly now take place, refpecting any navigable communication between the wTaters of the Pacific and Atlantic oceans, within the limits of our furvey, as on the hypothefis which gave as a coun- terpoife to the globe a fouthern continent, and which the indefatigable diligence of Captain Cook completely fubverted, I fhould hope that the purpofe for which his Majefty commanded the 1795.] ROUND THE WORLD. 383 the expedition to be undertaken, will not be confidered as having failed for want of zeal or perfeverance, though it fliould hereafter be found incomplete for want of judgment and ability. There were few objects to which I had paid more attention, or had more fincerely at heart, than that of obferving fuch a conduct, at all times, towards the feveral tribes of Indians, with whom we fhould frequently meet, as fliould prevent the neceffity of our reforting to any rneafures that might endanger the lives of a people, whofe real intentions were always likely to be mifunderftood, from a wTant of knowledge in us of their refpective dialects or languages. After having refided, as it were, amongft them for more than two years, without having had the leaft occafion to fire a fhot in anger, I had fondly hoped that I fliould have been enabled to have completed our refearches in thofe before untrodden regions, without the lofs of life to a Angle individual belonging to the countries we might yet find it neceffary to vifit. In this my anxious concern for the great caufe of humanity I was, however, difappointed. The number of Indians from Traitor's cove which fell in the unprovoked attack upon our boats, on the 12th of Auguft, 1793, could not be afcertained ; but, independently of this unfortunate affair, I do not know of more than jWr S§4 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [SEPT^ than two men who afterwards loft their lives iri confequence of our expeditions, from the Difi^ covery or Chatham. Thefe unlucky events did not, however, fail to produce in my mind much forrow and regret, from which I could find no relief but in the confoling reflection, that nothing but the moft urgent neceffity, for our own pre- fervation, would have compelled us to haw adopted coercive rneafures. From the firft moment of my appointment, to the hour in which I refigned the ftation I had fo long held, the health of every individual under my command had been my firft care; and I had now the unfpeakable happinefs of beholding the fame perfons return on board the Difcovery to the river Shannon, in perfect health, as had failed with me from the river Thames, excepting fuch of the officers as had officially been fent home, or had been promoted in the Chatham; the feven- teen feamen left at St. Helena, to affift in navigating the Macaffar to England*, and the undermentioned individuals, who were unhappily loft in the courfe of the expedition. John Brown, carpenter's mate, drowned by accident, in the execution of his duty, off the fouth Foreland, 3d of February, 1791. Neil Coil, marine, died of the flux, communw • Arrived all well the 22d of November, 1795. eated 1?K)5.] R0U#D THE WORLD. S&5 oated to! Ac Difcovery, at the cape of Good HbpephjShn infected fhip from Batavia, 7th of Auguft, hb7gi. -. Jofeph i Murgatroyd, one of the carpenter's cte¥,eraiffihgaatofea thrift of January, 1793. Jo'M:)Gajter, feamen, poifoned by eating muf- cfe/iin#oifon.eove+AttH June, 1793'.- j - uEaaciWooden; drowned by accident, in the exeoafcbnof his duty,' off Wooden's rock, the 24th of Auguft, 17^4. Richard Jones, drowned by accident, in the execution of his duty, between the port of Valparaifo and the ifland of St. Helena, 21ft of June, 1795. , y; - • -;.._ By this lift it will appear that, from the 15th of December, in the year 1790, to this 13th day of September, ] 795, comprehending a fpace of four years eight months and twenty-nine days, we had loft out of our complement of one hundred men, only one man by difeafe: and at the time of our parting with the Chatham* at St. Helena, fhe had not, in the courfe of the whole voyage loft a fingle man, either in confequence of ill health, or from any accident whatever. The unfortunate lofs of thefe five men from the Difcovery produced in me infinite regret, but when I adverted to the very dangerous fervice in which we had been fo long employed, and the * Arrived all well 17th of Odober 1795. Vol. VI. C c many II' f^f 386 A VOYAGE OF DXS0OV*flY (JfiPT. many perilous fituations from"which.vve kasd'lp:rOK. videntially been extricated, witha'all poffible ado-" ration, humility, and gratitude, I offered up my unfeigned thanks to the Great Disposer of all human events, for the protection wlpfcfo thus, in his unbounded wifdom and goodneflLhe had been pleafed, on all occafions, to vouchsafe- unto us, and which hadonow happily reftored us to our country, our families, and our friends. END OF THE JOURNAL.- HOTES ( 387 ) NOTES MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. SINCE my return to England I have had feveral converfations with Captain Colnett, relative to the capture of his veffel at Nootka, and the treatment that himfelf, officers, and crew, received from the Spaniards during the time they remained at that place, and afterwards whilft they were prifoners at St. Bias; from the whole of which it will appear, that he had been extremely ill ufed, and that no dependence is to be placed on the accounts given to Sen1" Quadra, or myfelf, by the American commanders, who are ftated to have been eye-witneffes of moft of the tranfactions. The documents and papers .which Captain Colnett has fince produced to me, fully prove that the Americans wilfully mifreprefented the whole affair, to the prejudice of his character, and the intereft of his Britannic Majefty's fub- jects, engaged in commercial purfuits on the coaft of North Weft America. Having been particularly careful to ftate all the important circumftances that came to my C c 2 knowledge I 388 NOTES AND knowledge during my negotiation with Senr Quadra, whether they were fuch as tended to ellablilli the claims, or militate againft the pretentions, of the Britilh crown to the territories at Nootka, 1 have thought it proper, in addition to what has been already related, to give the following brief account of the capture of the Argonaut, as reprefented to me by Captain Colnett. The fettlement which Captain Colnett had in contemplation to make at Nootka, had been concerted at Macao, in November, 1-7-8-9, at the time he entered into copartnerfhip with feveral Englifh gentlemen refident at that place. On this occafion, Captain Colnett made it his particular bufinefs to become informed with reflect to the property which thofe gentlemen held in the two veffels, the North Weft America and Ephigenia, then on the coaft of Nootka; for as to the land, he entertained no doubt of its belonging to Great Britain, as the fubjects of that ftate were the firft European people who had difcovered the country; and he was further well fatisfied, that no other power whatever had a right to difpoffefs the gentlemen with whom he had engaged, of their property at Nootka, becaufe he and they confidered it to be exclufively their own. The intention of forming a fettlement was known to Mr. Hudfon before his departure in the Princefs Royal from Macao; and on his j § arrival MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. 38G. arrival before Captain Colnett at. Nootka, fuch intention was moft probably communicated to the Spaniards and the native Indians, who appeared to have been long in expectation of the Argonaut's arrival, and had referved the greateft part of their furs for the purpofe of exchangina: them with Captain Colnett, for the articles with which, they had learned, his veffel would be freighted. Under the ideas which Captain Colnett entertained, that this part of the coaft of North Weft America belonged to Great Britain, he had no fear of entering any of its ports, becaufe he was duly authorized by the South Sea company to trade in thofe feas, and had leave to abfent himfelf from his Majefty's fervice, being at that time a lieutenant in the royal navy. As a defence againft hoftile Indians, the Argonaut had twelve carriage guns, befide fwivels and fmall arms; but not apprehending any thing unfriendly from the inhabitants of Nootka, nor having become acquainted before he left China, that any difference exifted between the courts of London and Madrid, when he arrived off Nootka, on the 3d of July, 17yo, the guns of the Argonaut were dif? mourned, an(l were a^ m tnc hold of the veffel. About nine o'clock that evening, when at the diftance of about three leagues from the entrance into the pprt, a boat was obferved coming to- C c 3 wards 300 NOTES AND wards the Argonaut; but, as the weather was very ha2y, it could not be difcovered to what nation it belonged. On being hailed, the perfons in her laid upon their oars, and requefted, in Spanifli, permiffion to come on board, with which Captain Colnett inftantly complied. Soon after another Spanifh boat, and one belonging to an American veffel, came alongfide his veffel, and Captain Colnett now underftood that there were two Spanifli men of war, and an American fhip and Hoop, at anchor in Friendly cove. On receiving this information, Captain Colnett hefi- tatedffor fome time, whether he fliould, or not, so into Friendly cove; as he had fome doubts as O J to the propriety of putting himfelf under the command of Spanifh fhips of war. This objection being made known to Don Martinez, who had arrived in the firft boat, he requefted, through an interpreter, that Captain Colnett would, never- thelefs, afford him fome afliftance, as the veffels under his command Were in great diftrefs for the want of provifions and other neceflaries; and as he had paid fome attention to Mr. Hudfon, the commander of the Princefs Royal, one of the four veffels under Captain Colnett's directions (as would be feen by a letter which he produced to Captain Colnett from Mr. Hudfon) Martinez hoped Captain Colnett would not be wanting in a return of civility, and intreated him, in the WSP' ■ moft MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. ||g| moll earnest-manner, to enter Friendly cove; pledging his word of honor, not only as com" mander in chief of all the fhips belonging to his Catholic Majefty, on the northern coafts of the Pacific Ocean, but alfo as nephew to the viceroy, and in his capacity at Nootka, as the reprefen- taive of the king of-Spain; that Captain Colnett fhould be at liberty to depart whenever he might think proper ; Don Martinez Hating,-at the fame time, that he was then at Nootka for the fole purpofe of watching the operations and proceedings of the Ruffians. Thefe affurances induced Captain Colnett to confider Don Martinez as an officer of%igh rank and character; and as he did not entertain the moft diftant idea that any falfehood was attempted to be impofedupon-s or that he was in the leaft danger of being t#d by Martinez with duplicity, he luffered-the nilli -launches to tow the Argonaut into' J where fhe did not arrive until .micfcightV'-' The next-morning Sol M§mnT6M^h^%t0t tain Colnett to breakfaal:lbn. board-the Frin< and afteFWards-aeoompanied him "on his retd the Argonaut,-'where Captain QoMeit-'pri fuch provifions ana-ftpres as he couldfplifeetb-be got to'harid, gave a lift^f thereto DhneMtrbln^ei and, at -the fame t\ m^ -re q ueft-e d his -MMp taUce of them, with which?civility"- 'he appeared: roAfe highly pleafed and thoroughly Mi^fiedu-e©om C c 4 Martinez, 3()2 NOTES AND Martinez had not been long on board-(the Arg.% naut before he felected Captain Qqlti-ptt's:..; boajt^ fwain from the reft of the crew, who, being a native of Gibraltar, fpoke the Spanifh language very fluently. After fome con'verfation with this man, Don Martinez demanded him of Captain Colnett, as a fubject of his Catholic Majefty, and as the boatfwain was very defirous of leaving the Argonaut, Captain Colnett remitted the balance then due from him on account of his wages, and difcharged him from his fervice. This circumftance was by no means a pleafant one to Captain Colnett; but, as Don Martinez feemed to be extremely anxious to obtain the releafe of this man, Captain Colnett did not think it would have been prudent to have refilled his application. His doubts, however, of the profeffed fincerity of Don Martinez, became increafed, by his foon discovering that the Indians declined all fort of trade with the Argonaut. This induced him to determine upon leaving Friendly cove with all poffible difpatch, and he acquainted hQon Martinez that he purpofed to depart in the courfe of the day., Upon this the Spanifh officer offered his launch to^aflilt the Argonaut out of the cove; and it was;at thisifig^e agreed, that the articles with which Captain Colnett could, fupply Don Martii|j^^|hould be fent to him by the r^|urn of the Spajpifti launch. The prom ifed affiftance of I f this MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS, 3§3 this boat not arriving fo foon as Captain Colnett had expected, he fent one of his mates to Don Martinez, for the purpofe of reminding him of his engagement, and to procure the launch; but, to his great furprize, inftead of the officer returning with the Spanifh boat, Captain Colnett received a meffage from Don Martinez, Ndefiring that he would inftantly repair on board the Prin^ ciffa, and produce his fhip's papers for his examination. With this requeft Captain Colnett immediately complied, and Don Martinez had fcarcely looked at them, before he pofitively af- ferted that they were all forgeries, although he did not underftand a fingle word of the language in which they were written. With this declaration he threw them on the table, and infilled that the Argonaut fhould not fail from Nootka until he fhould think proper to grant permiffion for her departure. On Captain Colnett complaining of this breach of prornife and good faith, Martinez quitted the cabin in an apparent rage, and inftantly difpatched an armed party from the deck, who, after knocking Captain Colnett down, arretted him, and detained him as a prifoner on board the Princiffa. Don Martinez then fent his launch on board the Argonaut; ftrnek the Bri- tifh, and hoifted sSpanifli, colours; ordered the Columhia, an American fhif), to fire into the Argonaut if flie attempted "to unmoor; made the officers m- 304 NOTES AND officers priibners, and put the crew into irons. After tins the veffel was unloaded, and every individual was robbed of fuch parts of his private .property as was chofen by the Spaniards. In this fituation the Argonaut, officers, and crew, remained for ten days, when the Princefs Royal appeared in the offing; and on Mr. Hudfon, her commander, being perceived by Martinez to be coming near the fhore in his boat, he fent out his launch armed, feized the boat, and brought Mr. Hudfon on board the Princiffa, wiiere a letter was prepared for him to fign, ordering: the offi^ i i O ? G cer, whom he had left in charge of his veffel, to deliver her up without, any refifiance. At the yard-arm was rove a rope, with which Mr. Hudfon was threatened to be hanged, if he declined figning the letter, or if the Hoop under his command fhould fire at the launch then ready to carry the propofed letter, and which, under thefe circumilances, he was compelled to fign on board the Princiffa. e-Frorn the 5th to the 14th of July, 1790, arrangements were making on board the Argonaut O lO G for the. lent oio during th .officers and crew footka" to St. Bias, whither Captain Colnett wasagiven to underftand they would he fent as prifoners. i Thertreatment which Captain Colnett received whilftaaa board thecFifintiflk'. had nearly proved ,o fatal MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. 305 fatal to him; he was feized with a violent fever, attended with a delirium, which did not abate until he wTas removed on board his own veffel; here he was made a clofe prifoner, and confined to the mate's cabin, a place not fix feet fquare. Such parts of the Argonaut's cargo as Martinez thought proper to reject, were returned into the veffel again, and all the officers, and fixteen of the crew, who were Britifh fubjects, were, on the 14th of July, fent in the Argonaut under confinement from Nootka to St. Bias. Notwithftanding the great diftinction with which it had been reprefented to Sen1 Quadra, and urged by him to me, Captain Colnett had been received on his arrival at this port, and which he does not deny, in point of treatment, was infinitely better than he had experienced during the time he was under the power and directions of Martinez; yet the remainder of his cargo, flores and provifions, was taken from out of his veffel at St. Bias, and a part only of the former was afterwards reftored, whilft the wages of the Spanifli navy that were paid to him, for himfelf, officers, and crew, were nearly counterbalanced by the heavy expences brought againft his fliip's company during the time ol their captivity, for their maintenance, medical and other affiftance. The hardihips which were endured, according S©6 NOTES AND to Captain Colnett's reprefentation, by himfelf, his officers, and the fixteen Britifh feamen, during a paffage of thirty-two days to St. Bias, are not to be defcribed; but as a detail of thefe circumstances would lead me into extraneous matter, unconnected with the object (the ceffion of the territories at Nootka) which made a llatement of Captain Colnett's transactions in Friendly cove neceffary in the former part of my journal, I fhall forbear to mention any thing on that head, and only infert a paffage, tranflated from the Spanifli paffport, granted by the viceroy of Mexico to Captain Colnett, at the time of the reftoration of his veffel, and his liberation from the Spanifh territories in America; by which it will appear, that although Don Eftevan Martinez had no efpe- cial directions to capture either the Argonaut, Princefs Royal, or any other Britifh fhip, yet all veffels not belonging to his Catholic Majefty, might have been retained at Nootka as good and lawful prizes: this will neceffarily leave the reader in fome doubt as to the means that were purfued by the American traders then at Nootka, to preferve the privileges which they fieem to have enjoyed ; and I fhall conclude this relation of the buflnefs from the teftimony of Captain Colnett, by briefly flating how he conducted himfelf, on receiving a fubfequent paffport from the viceroy of Mexico. I The MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. • t()f * The conduct of this officer" (Don Eftevan Jofe Martinez) " was founded on laws and royal orders, which not only do abfolutely prohibit the negociation, eftablifhment, and commerce, of aliens on our coafts of the fouth feas of both Americas; but ordain alfo, that they the faid aliens, fhall be looked upon and treated as declared enemies, without its-being underftood to be a breach of the good faith, or contrary to the treaties of peace; for in that concluded in the year 1760, and confirmed in the fecond article of that in 17@3, the arrival of all alien veffels, or their introduction, paffage, or commerce on the faid coafts, are completely prohibited. " Under thefe circumftances, agreed to by the treating parties, and politive declarations of the court of Spain, the veffels Argonaut and Princefs Royal might have been retained as good and lawful prizes; but, being defirous to preferve that harmony which at prefents exifts between our court and that of London, and confidering alfo 7 G that the fovereigns of both kingdoms will, upon reafonable and jult terms, amicably agree to the reftoration of the faid veffels, I grant a free and fafe paflport to their Captains James Colnett and Thomas Hudfon, that they may proceed to Macao, or fail to any other place they may choofe, with the exprefs prohibition that they fhall not put into any port or bay or Dafts without fome lf|! NOTES AND fome very prefling neceffity, or eftablifh them-6 felves there, or trade in them with the Indians, becaufe they may do this in other places or iflands not the dominions of his Catholic Majefty." After Captain Colnett had received this paffport, he petitioned the viceroy that he might be permitted to difpofe of the remaining part of his cargo on the coaft of North Weft America, but this was pofitively refufed by the viceroy, who ftated that he was bound to give that preference to the fubjects of His Catholic Majefty. Notwithftanding that he did not grant Captain Colnett this indulgence, he tranfmitted to him another paffport, in which Captain Colnett was directed to proceed to Nootka, with orders to the commanding officer there, to deliver up the Princefs Royal, which veffel had been directed to repair to that port, after having been fome months employed in the Spanifli fervice. On Captain Colnett's return to Nootka he did not find the Princefs Royal there, nor could he learn any tidings of her deftination, and therefore he made the beft of his way from Nootka to Macao, agreeably to the injunctions contained in the fecond paffport from the viceroy of Mexico. In the year 1792, the fur trade, between the north-weft coaft of America and China, gave employment to upwards of twenty fail of fhips and veffels, whofe names, and the countries to which MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. 3§9 which they belong, I have thought proper to in- fert, for the purpofe of fhe wing that my opinions, refpecting the value of this trade, were not only founded upon obfervation, but confirmed by the practice of feveral European ftates, and adventurers from the Afiatic, Chinefe, and American fliores. Ships and veflels. ** Commanders. ,, To what bouatry "belongings Ship Butterworth, oLjk Brown, London. Sloop Le Boo, f?/» W»m Sharp, ditto. Cutter" Jackal, ft^gi Steward, ditto. B'r-ig^Thike Brother^, ?H" - Alder,'' I ditto.' Schooner Prince William Hen ry> ;Ewenr - ditto. Ship Jenny, '-' Baker,,. BriftoL S Brig Halcyon, - Barclay, Bengal. Brig- Venus, - Shepherd, • sdittoOS Snow ■ ■ $tfm Moor, Canton. Brig - V- Coftidge, ditto. B"g J-"* - - Harriett, ditto. Ship Columbia, - Gray, Boitoo, America; Sloop Adventure, .{Built at Clayoquot, tender to the Columb: :^y } - Hafwell, ditto. Ship Jefferfon, ipls Roberts, ditto. Brig Hope, - Ingraham, ditto. Brig Hancock, - Crowell, ditto. Brig Washington, - Kendrick, ditto. Ship Margaret, w& Magie, New York, Ship Ephigenia, ig>*s Viana, Portugal. Brig Fenis and St. JofepI L, Andrede, ditto. Ship - |8| Unknown, France. Befide thefe, the veflels already mentioned in my journal, belonging to his Catholic Majefty, frequently reforted to the port of Nootka. gj& When fuch a fpirit for enterprize as. this, is thus 400 NOTES AN fc thus manifefted by the people of fo many different nations, and directed from all quarters of the globe to thefe fliores, there can remain no more doubt, with refpect to the commercial advantages which are likely to be attendant on fuch fpeculations, than that many unjuffc proceedings will take place amongft the feveral perfons concerned, who, in the avidity for promoting their refpective interefts, become competitors for the, commodity of which each is in purfuit, and de- ftroy the general benefits which, under wife and good regulations would refult to all. A retro- fpective view of thefe circumftances, and the behaviour of Sen1' Quadra,in the negotiation which, with him I had the honour to conduct, refpecting the ceffion of the territories at Nootka to the crown of Great Britain ; will ferve to fliew in what an important light the court of Spain beholds her interefts in this valuable country, and what alfo are the commercial advantages that moft probably would accrue to the adventurers on the coaft, were their dealings properly reft rained, and their general conduct wifely regulated. Although we did not meet with any Ruffian veffels at Nootka, yet I am clearly of opinion the people of that nation are more likely than thofe of any other to fucceed in procuring furs, and the other valuable commodities, from thefe fhores MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. 401 fhores, with which a moft beneficial trade might be eftablifhed between North-Weft America, Japan, and the northern parts of China. Of this I was well perfuaded, from the accounts I received from Symloff, and from my own obfer- . vations on the general conduct of the Ruffians towards the Indians, in the feveral places where we found them under their controul and direction. Had the natives about the Ruffian eftab-: lifliments in Cook's inlet, arid Prince William's found been oppreffed, dealt hardly by, or treated by the Ruffians as a conquered people, fome uneafinefs amongft them would have been perceived, fome defire for emancipation would have been difcovered; but no fuch difpofition appeared, they feemed to be held in no reftraint, nor did they feem to wifh, on any occafion whatever, to elude the vigilance of their directors. For fome of our commodities that were valuable to them, they would offer their furs in exchange ; but in no inftance did they propofe any thing of the kind for fale to the difadvantage of their employers. The Ruffians, moft likely, unable to reduce the inhabitants of the infular country to the fouth-eaftward from Crofs found, have preferred to fit down amongft thofe to the weftward ; where, from the compactnefs of the coaft, and the lofty impaffable mountains which ap- Vol. VI. D d proach .%' " 402 NOTES AND proach the fea fhore, the natives are reftrained from indulging in the wandering life to which their more eaftern neighbours are accuftomed, and who being a much more warlike race, may poffibly have been found by the Ruffians to be lefs tractable. Notwithftanding that our furvey of the coaft of North-Weft America has afforded to our minds the moft fatisfactory proof that no navigable communication whatever exifts between the North Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans, from the 30th to the 50th degree of north latitude, nor between the water of the Pacific, nor any of the lakes or rivers in the interior part of continent of North America ; yet, as it is very difficult to undeceive, and more fo to convince the human mind, when prepofleffed of long adopted notions, however erroneoufly they may have been founded, and especially when circum- ftances may be reforted to which have the appearance of being capable of furnifhing new matter for ingenious fpeculative opinions, it may not be improper to ftate, that although, from unavoidable circumftances, Mr. Broughton* was compelled, in his examination of Columbia river, to defift from attempting to afcertain the navigable extent of the feveral fmall branches which * Now 1 poft captain in the royal navy, fall MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. 403 fall into that river, yet that gentleman was thoroughly convinced from the view he had obtained of each, and the circumftances attendant on them all, that no one of thofe branches admitted of any navigable communication whatever with the interior country. With refpect to the ancient difcoveries of De Fuca, they appear to be upheld by tradition alone, and ought therefore to be received with 7 o great latitude, and to be credited with ftill more caution. A celebrated writer on geography* appears to have been perfectly convinced that this oral teftimony was correct, although he candidly acknowledges that " we have no other than verbal report of De Fuca's difcovery; he communicated the information to Mr. Lock at Venice^, and offered to perform a voyage," I prefume, for the further exploring of thofe regions, " on condition of having payment of the great loffes he. bad fuftained, to the value of fixty thoufand ducats, when captured by Sir Thomas Cavendifli in the South Seas. John de Fuca, the Greek pilot, "in 15Q2, failed into a broad inlet, between the 47th and 48th degrees, which led him into a far broader fea, wherein he failed above twenty days, there being at the entrance on the north-weft * See PaliydipU's plan for promoting the fur trade. 1739* D d 2 coaft, II II 404 NOTES AND" coaft, a great head-land or ifland, with ari exceeding high pinnacle or fpired rock, like a pillar, thereupon." This is the whole that can be collected from the information of this fuppofed navigator; which Mr. Dalrympie fays exactly correfponds with the difcoveries of the Spaniards, who u have recently found an entrance in the latitude of 47° 45' north, which in twenty-feven days' courfe brought them to the vicinity of Hudfon's bay." On making inquiries of the Spanifh officers attached to the commiffion of 9enr Melafpina, as alfo of Senr Quadra, and feveral of the officers under his orders, who, for fome time paft, had been employed in fuch refearches refpecting fo important a circumftance, I was given to underftand by them all, that my communication was the firft intelligence they h lad ever received of fuch difcoveries having been made ; and as to the navigators De Fuca, De Fonte, and others, thefe gentlemen expected to have derived intelligence of them from us, fuppofing, from the Englifh publications, that we were better acquainted with their achievements than any part of the Spanifh nation. A commander of one of the trading veflels met jvith fuch a pinnacle rock in the la- latitude of 47° 47', but unluckily there was no opening near it, to identify it being the fame which MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVA1 which the Greek pilot had feen; but this circumftance can eafily be difpenfed with, for the fake of fupporting an hypothefis, only by fuppof- ing the opening to be further to the northward. That fuch a rock might have been {een in that latitude is not to be queftioned, becaufe we faw numbers of them, and it is well known, that not only on the coaft of North-Weft America, but on various other coafts of the earth, fuch pinnacle rocks are found to exift. On thefe grounds, and on thefe alone, ftands the ancient authority for the difeoveries of John De Fuca; and however erroneous they may be, feem to have been acknowledged by moft of the recent vifitors to this coaft, who as well as myfelf, (as is too frequently and injudicioufly the cafe) have been led to follow the ftream of the current report. By my having continued the name of De Fuca in my journal and charts, a tacit acknowledgment of his difeoveries may poffibly, on my part, be inferred ; this however, I muft pofitively deny, becaufe there has not been {een one leading; feature to fubftantiate his tradition: on the contrary, the fea coaft under the parallels between which this opening is faid to have ex- ifted, is compact and impenetrable : the fliores of the continent have not any opening whatever, that bears the leaft fimilitude to the defcription D d 3 of 406 NOTES AND of De Fuca's entrance ; and the opening which I have called the fuppofedjhaits of Juan de Fuca, inftead of being between the 4/th and 48th degrees, is between the 48th and 4§th degrees of north latitude, and leads not into a far broader fea or mediterranean ocean. The error, however, of a degree in latitude may, by the advocates for De Fuca's merits, be eafily reconciled, by the ignorance in thofe days,. or the incorrect- nefs in making fuch common aftronomical obfervations ; yet we do not find that Sir Francis Drake, who failed before De Fuca, was liable to fuch miftakes. The difeoveries of the Portuguefe or Spanifli admiral De Fonte, De Fonta, or De Fuentes, appear to be equally liable to objections, as thofe faid to have been made by De Fuca. Little reliance, I truft, will hereafter be placed on that publication of De Fonta's account,* wherein it is ftated that | He failed 260 leagues in crooked channels, amongft iflands, named the Archipelago of St. Lazarus, and on the 14th of June 1540, he came to a river which he named Rio de ios Reyes-, in 53° of north latitude ; he went up it to the north-eaft ward 6o leagues ; it was frefh 20 leagues from the mouth, the tide rifing ? See Dalrymple's plan for promoting the fur trad®* 1789. 24 jiff! MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. 40?. 24 feet, the depth not lefs than four or five fa* thorns at low water all the way into lake Belle, which he entered the 22d of June; in this lake there was generally {ix or feven fathoms; and at a particular time of tide there is a fall in the lake; that from a good port fheltered by an ifland on the fouth fide of lake Belle, De Fonta on the lft of July failed in his boats to a river which he named Parmentiers ; that he paffed eight falls, in all thirty-two feet perpendicular, from its fource in lake Belle, into a large lake which he reached the f3th of July. This lake he named De Fonte; it is lOo leagues long, and Co broad, lying E.N.E. and W. S. W. in length, having in fome places Co fathoms depth, abounding with cod and ling." It is here neceffary to interrupt the thread of De Fonta's curious narrative for a moment, in order, if poffible, to reconcile the nature of his voyage with his ftatement of facts. After his arrival in Rio de los Reyes, he failed in his fhip 60 leagues to lake Belle ; 40 leagues of this diftance rwere frefh water; and then in his boats, through that lake and the river Parmentiers ; where, after pafling eight falls he arrived in lake de Fonte, which he finds abounding with cod and ling; but the extent of lake Belle is not mentioned, nor whether the water in lake de Fonte was frefh or fait, though from common reafoning, it is natu- D d 4 ml 40S NOTES AND ral to conclude, that, fince the water in Rio dc los Reyes was frefh at the diftance of 40 leagues from the lake whence the river derives its origin, that the water in lake De Fonte, where cod and ling are faid to abound, muft be frefh alfo. But to return to the narrative. Lake de Fonte contained f| feveral very large iflandsx, and ten fmall ones: from the E. N. E. extremity of this lake, which he left the 14th of July, he paffed in ten hours with a frefh wind and whole ebb a lake, which he named Strait Ronquillo, 34 leagues long, and two or three broad, with 20, to 26 and 28 fathoms depth. On the 17th he came to an Indian town, where he learnt there was a fhip in the neighbourhood; to this fhip he failed, and found on board only one man advanced in years and a youth ; the man was the greateft in the mechanical part of mathematicks he had ever feen: he learnt they were from Bofton in New England, the owner named Gibbons, who was major general of Maltachufett's, and the whole fhip's company came on the 30th of July. On the Qth of Auguft De Fonta made the owner fome valuable prefents, and took fome provifions from them, and gave Captain Shapely, the commander of the veffel, one thoufand pieces of eight for his fine charts and journals. On the 11th of Auguft De Fonta arrived at the firft fall in the river MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. 40Q river Parmentiers, and on the lOth on board his fhip in lake Belle. The extenfive archipelago, in which De Fonta had failed through crooked channels 20o leagues; the river navigable for fhipping that flowed into it, up which he had failed in his fhip Co leagues; the water becoming frefh after he had entered and paffed in it 20 leagues; its communicating by other lakes and rivers with a paffage, in which a fhip had arrived from Bofton in New England; are all fo circumftantially particularized, as to give the account, at firft fight, an air of probability, and on examination, had it been found reafonably connected together, which is by no means the cafe ; a trifling difference in point of defcription or fituation would have been pardoned. The Rio de los Reyes Mr. Dalrymple ftates (according to the Spanifli geographers, under the authority of which nation De Fonta is faid to have failed) to be in the 43d; according to the Englifh in the 53d; and according to the French, in the 63d degree of north latitude, on the weftern coaft of North America. If it be neceffary to make allowance for the ignorance of De Fonta, or the errors in his obfervations, any other parallel along the coaft may be affigned with equal porrectncfs. Under 410 NOTES AND Under the 43d parallel of north latitude oft this coaft, no fuch archipelago nor river does cxift; but between the 47th and 5/th degrees of north latitude, there is an archipelago compofed of innumerable iflands, and crooked channels; yet the evidence of a navigable river flowing into it, is ftill wanting to prove its identity ; and as the fcrupulous exactnefs with which our furvey of the continental fhore has been made within thefe limits, precludes the poffibility of fuch a river having been paffed unnoticed by us, as that; defcribed to be of Rio de los Reyes, I remain in foil confidence, that fome credit will hereafter be given to the teftimony refulting from our researches, and that the plain truth undifguifed, w^ith which our labours have been reprefented, will be juftlyappreciated, in refutation of ancient unfupported traditions. I do not, however, mean pofitively to deny the difeoveries of De Fonta, I only wifti to invefti- gate the fact, and to afcertain the truth; and I am content with having ufed my endeavours to prove their improbability as publifjied to the world. The broken region which fo long occupied our attention, cannot poffibly be the archi- pf&fego of St. Lazarus, fince the principal feature by which the identity of that-archipelago could be proved is that of a navigable river for fhipping i-ifei&ifSif'- flowing MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS, 411 flowing into it, and tjiis certainly does not exift in that archipelago which has taken us fo much time to explore; hence the fituation cannot be the fame, and for that reafon I have not affixed the name of De Fonta, De Fonte, or Fu&ites to any part of thofe regions. It is however to be remembered, that our geography of the w7hole coaft of North Weft America is not yet complete, and that the French navigators, who have ftated the archipelago of St. Lazarus to be in the 63d degree of north latitude, may not yet be in an error. The ftupendous barrier mountains certainly do not feem to extend in fo lofty and connected a range to the northward of the head of Cook's inlet, as to the fouth-eaftward of that ftation; and it is poffible that in this part, the chain of mountains may admit of a communication with the eaftern country, which feems to be alrooft impracticable further to the fouthwTard. In this conjecture we are fome what Warranted by the fimilarity obferved in the race of people inhabiting the fhores of Hudfbn's bay and thofe to the northward of North Weft America. In all the parts of the continent on which we landed, we nowhere found any roads or paths through the woods, indicating the Indians on the coaft having any intercourfe with the natives of the 412 . NOTES, &CC. the interior part of the country, nor were there any articles of the Canadian or Hudfon's bay tracers found amongft the people with whom we met on any part of the continent or external fea fhores of this extenfive country. FINIS. BOOKS PRINTED FOR JOHN STOCKDJLE, PICCADILLY. s, or fubfcribers' unclaimed^ permiffion to His Majefty, A GENERAL MAP of GERMANY, ITALY, &c. on Thirty il large Sheets. By Captain Chauchard, with a dtfcriptive Volume, in royal quarto, containing 500 pages of clofe letter-prefs, on fine paper, and twenty-four plans of cities, price 81. copies, 12I. 12s. half bound. Dedicated t u and patronized by the whole of the Royal Family The HISTORY, Civil and Commercial, of the BRITISH COLONIES in the WEST INDIES. By Brian Edwards, Efq. F. R. S. S. A. To which is prefixed the Life of the Author, written by himfelf, and a Preface, by Sir William Young, Bart. In three large volumes octavo, with twenty-two maps and plates, price 2I. 2s, or on royal paper 2I. 12s. 6d. Dedicated by permiffion to His Ma' TRAVELS through the STATES of NOkTH AMERICA, and Provinces of UPPER and LOWER CANADA, during the Years 1795, I79^> and 1797. By Isaac Weld, Junior, Efq. In one volume, quarto, with fixteen plates, il. 10s. in two volumes, octavo, with all the plates, il. is. or in one volume with eight plates, 10s. 6d. HISTORY of CATHERINE II. Emprefs of Ruffia. Translated from the French of J. Caftera. By Henry Hunter, D. D. In one large volume octavo, with thirteen portraits, and a view, price 10s. 6J. or on fine paper 13s. 6d. The VOYAGE of LA PEROUSE round the WORLD, in Years 1785, 6, 7, and 8. 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In three volumes octavo, with 4.0 plates, price xl. 7s, Booh printed for]. Stockdale, Piccadilly, The VOYAGE of GOVERNOR PHILIP to BOTANY BAYV wkh an Account of the Eftablifhme!=t of the Colonies of Port Jackfonand Norfolk Ifland. To which ace added, the Journals of Lieutenants Short- land, Watts, Ball* and Captain Marfhall, with their new Difeoveries. In one volume royal quarto, with fifty-five plates, p:ice il. us. 6d<; An HISTORICAL JOURNAL of the Tranfaaions at Porfjackfon and Norfolk Ifland, w>th the Difeoveries which have been made in New South Wales, and the Southern Ocean, fince the publication of Philip's Voyage \ compiled from the official papers, including the Journals of Cjcve-r-nors. Philip and King, and. Lieutenant Ball, and the voyages front • the firft failing of the Sirius in 1787 to the return of that (hip's company to England in 1792. By John Hunter, Efq. Poft.Captain in the Royal Navy. In one volume loyal quarto, with feventeen charts and views, price il. 1 is. 6d. or on fine paper 2I. 12s. 6d. DISCOVERIES of the FRENCH in 176-8 and 9, to the South Eaft of New Gu:nea, with the fubfequent Vifits to the fame Lands by Englifh Navigators. To which is prefixed, an Hiftorical Account of the Voyages-'' and Difeoveries of the Spaniards in the fame Seas. By M. Fleurieu. In one volume royal quarto, with twelve plates, price il. is, JOURNAL of a VOYAGE in the LION extra Indiaman, from Madras to Columbo and Da Lagoa Bay, on the Eaftern Coaft of Africa, where the. Ship was. condemned, in the Years 1798 and 9. With fome account of the manners and cuftoms of the inhabitants of Da Lagoa Bay, and a vocabulary of their language. By William White, Efq. Captain in 73d Highland Regiment of Foot. In quaFto, with two fine plates^ price jo. A VOYAGE round the WORLD, but more particularly to the North Wdi Coaft of America, in the Years 1785, 6, 7, and 8, in the , King George and Qneen Charlotte. By Captains Portlock and Dixon. Dedicated by permiffion to His" Majefty. In two volumes, with forty-two charts, vitws, &c. price 2I. 6s. or on royal paper, with the Natural Hiftory coloured, 3/. 7s. 6d„ T. Giilet, Printer, Salisbury-square.
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Discovery (Ship : Launched 1789)
Chatham (Ship)
Travel
Voyages around the world
North America
Northwest Coast of North America
Northwest Passage
Pacific Ocean
Discovery & exploration
Discoveries in geography
A voyage of discovery to the North Pacific Ocean and round the world; in which the coast of North-west America has been carefully examined and accurately surveyed : undertaken by his Majesty’s command, principally with a view to ascertain the existence of any navigable communication between the North Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans ; and performed in the years 1790, 1791, 1792, 1793, 1794 and 1795, in the discovery sloop of war, and armed tender Chatham, under the command of Captain George Vancouver. Dedicated, by permission, to his Majesty
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