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British Columbia Historical Books Collection
Meares, John, 1756?-1809
"Some copies issued on larger paper with coloured plates. Streeter noted variations in copies and describes one with an extra plate on the Philippines. Meares commanded the Felice Adventurer and Iphigenia, Captain Douglas, on a trading voyage for the Associated Merchants. The seizure of his ships by the Spanish at Nootka led to an international crisis, eventually resolved by the Nootka Convention of 1790. His exaggerated claims concerning his exploits and hardships were strongly attacked by George Dixon (no. I48). The account of voyages was edited by William Combe from Meares's papers, ref. D.N.B. The appendices contain the official instructions for the voyage, and various documents concerning the seizure, including Meares's Memorial to the House of Commons which was also published separately (no.363)." -- Strathern, G. M., & Edwards, M. H. (1970). Navigations, traffiques & discoveries, 1774-1848: A guide to publications relating to the area now British Columbia. Victoria, BC: U
viii, xcv, 372 pages : illustrations (folded), maps (folded) ; 30 cm
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'wibrnr flf t~l n*». R..C. G<^. c C-*. Z ' It* rr V O Y A G E S Made in the Year s 1788 a nd 17 CHINA TO THE NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. AN INTRODUCTORY NARRATIVE A Voyage performed in 1786, from Bengal, in the Ship Noqtka; OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE A NORTH WEST PASSAGE; THE TRADE BETWEEN THE NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA AND CHINA AND THE LATTER COUNTRY AND GREAT BRITAIN. By JOHN M E A R E S, Ess, L 0 N D 0 N: [INTED AT THE E«Jf(gt«f5iC JPttflSs RIGHT HONBLE LORD HAWKESBlf'RT, PRESIDENT OF THE BOARD OF TRADE> 6fc. &c. THOSE COMMERCIAL ERUDITION AND OFFICIAL STATION, RENDER HIM THE BEST JUDGE, THE MOST HONOURABLE PATRON, OF ALL WORKS WHICH TEND TO PROMOTE THE INTERESTS, AND ENLARGE THE BOUNDARIES, OF BRITISH COMMERCE; THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED, WITH THE GREATEST RESPECT, BY HIS LO&DSHIP's MOST OBLIGED, AND FAITHFUL HUMBLE SERVANT, JOHN M E A R E S. R HP II E wiihes of friends,—the political circumftances of the# moment,—and, as I have been made to believe, the public expectation, have induced me to add the following Voyages to thofe which have already been published, to improve the navigation and extend the commerce of the Britifh Empire.—I do not pretend to be the rival,—but rather confider myfelf an humble follower of. thofe eminent navigators whofe reputation is become a part of the national fame; and though I may be permitted, as it were, to envy their fuperior talents and advantages, I moft fin- cerely add my feeble teftimony to that merit, which has ranked them among the illuirrious names of my country. Indeed I feel it a duty I owe myfelf, as well as to moderate the fanguine expe&ation which may have arifen refpe&ing the hiftory of tfioTe Voyages in which I have been engaged, and may be faid to have conduded, to obferve, that they were Voyages of Commerce, and not of Discovery ; and that whatever novelty they may poffefs, or original information they may bellow, arofe out of, and form, as it were, an incidental part of a commercial undertaking. The veffels committed to my command, were fitted out in the ports of the Eaft, by the commercial zeal of Britim fubjeOrs in that t of the globe.—It was my office, under their fpirited and confidential encouragement, to explore new regions of Trade;—the interefl therefore of thofe patriotic merchants and gentlemen, who had en- trtfitefl a very confiderable property to my care and controul, and the honour of gaining a fmall portion of that reputation which is due to thofe who promote the extenfion of the Britim commerce, wereAe fbie incentives to my zeal, arid alone fupported me under the difficulties, and amidft the dangers I encountered in difcharging my duty. When I was ftruggling with the ftorms of the Pacific Ocean,—w*hen I was 'locked up in ice, and fuffering the accumulated wretchednefs of that fituation on the mores of America, or when I was engaged in advancing the principal object of the Voyage and availing myfelf of any accidental opportunity which occurred of exploring thofe dubious coafts, I little thought it would be my future lot to give the hiftory of this part of my maritime life to the world.—If I had looked forward to the poffibility of fuch an event, I mould I mould, have enlarged my obferv.ations, and been" more minutely attends to, a variety of objeas which- were but curforily remarked-; •«d qualified myfelf,. during every part of my Voyages, to have givendt-hem all the intereft they were capable of receiving, and all the information they were, capable of producing. But without endeavouring to deprecate criticifm by an affected humility, or defying it by an unbecoming confidence, I flail venture to exprefs my hopei,-^tMt tfeis.YHfeie will be found to contain information ufeful to commerce, and inftruftions which future navigators atay notdifdaintoconfider; that the following pages will afford fome entertainment to men who are curious in examining the various modes of human life ; and that there are many paflkges in them which will heighten the feelings of thofe who » fit and think on what a failor fuffers." The Memoir on the China Trade, 8cc. mutt fpeak for itfelf :— The Obfervations I have ventured to make on the poffibility of a North Weft PafTage, muft alfo be fubmitted to the candid confidera- tion of inveftigating minds.—It is, however, proper to add, that in fupporting my opinion on that fubjea, I have had occafional recourfe to the corroborating arguments of Mr. Dalrymple, in his admirable pamphlet on the Fur Trade, 8cc. That every poffible attention.has been employed to render this Work, in fome degree, worthy of the public favour, will, I trufr, appear 1 to to every candid reader of it.—For its inaccuracies, though, I truft, they will not be found to be very numerous, I muft reft for excufe on the very great hafte in which it was neceffarily prepared to meet the public impatience ;—and I am difpofed to flatter myfelf that the indulgence I afk will not be denied me. November 16, 1790. JOHN MEARES. A N LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCE OF WALES. A NTRIM, Moft Noble Marquis of ■**■ Arran, Right Hon. Earl of Annaly, Right Hon. Lord Annefley, Right Hon. Richard Adams, Mr. Aftell, Wm. Thornton Efq. Clapham Alexander, Robert Efq. Banker Allen, John Efq. Auft, G. Efq. Secretary of State's Office Affociated Tinners in the County of Cornwall, 20 Copies B Buckingham, The Moft Noble Maiq. of Banks, Sir Jofeph, Bart. Prefident of the Royal Society Bruhl, His Excellency Count, Saxon Ambaflador Baflet, Sir F. Bart. Tehidy Park, Cornwall Bayntun, Sir Edward, Bart. Beale, Daniel Efq. China Beftland, Mr. Great Marlborough-fireet Brook, Mr. Birmingham Bowater, Captain Hampton-court Brook, George Efq. Brown, Auguftus Efq. Bride, Patrick Efq. Bank Direftor, Ireland Burfton, Beresford Efq. King's Counfel Brabazon, Capt. Lambert of the Navy Barrett, Rev. John Ball, John Efq. Dublin Ball, George Efq. ditto Bolton, Richard Efq. ditto Binns, John Efq. ditto Batten, Efq. Penzance, Cornwall Bolitho, Thomas Efq. Chyandour, ditto Bofville, William Efq. Bateman, Nathaniel Efq. Berry, Kingfmill Efq. Howland-Jlreet Beate, Thomas Efq. Baldwin, Mr. Bookfeller, 25 Copies Becket, Mr. Bookfeller, 10 Copies Bew, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies Boofey, Mr. Bookfeller, 3 Copies Byrn, Mr. James Bookfeller, Dublin, 6 C. C Charlemont. Right Hon. Earl of Clonmell,Rt. Hon. Lord Vifc. Chief Juf- tice Court of King's Bench, Ireland Carleton, Right Hon. Lord, Chief Juftice of the Court of Common Pleas, ditto- Cloncurry, Right Hon. Lord Clanbraffil, Right Hon. Lord Chetwynd, Hon. Mr. Jermyn-fireet Chalmers, George Efq. Chief Clerk of the Board of Trade Coombe, Hervey Efq. Great Rujel.flreet Collinfon, Michael Efq. Grofvenor Place- Cook, Thomas Summers Efq. Downing-J- Cabell, William Efq. India Board Clowes, William Efq. Warrington. Cox, Mr. Shoe-lane Cox, J. Henry Efq. China K Carver, Mr. Birmingham Clark, Mr. Upper Grofvenor-pee t Curtis, William Efq. Aldemlarr & M. P. Colville, William Efq. a Dircftor of the Bank, Ireland Crothwaite, Leland Efq. ditl Chatterton, James Efq. King's Counfel Conolly, James Efq. Campbell, George Efq. Cunningham, Thomas Efq. Coles, Richard Efq. Cunnach, Mr. Penzance, Cornwall Cotton, John Efq. Low Layton Cunningham, Waddle Efq. Chalmer, Wm. Efq. Chief of the-Swedish Supra Cargoes, at Canton Cadell, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies D Donoughmore, Right Hon. Lord Delvin, Right Hon. Lord Donnithorne, Nicholas Efq. -St. $$®s, Cornwall :nny5 Sir Barry, :ring, Sir Edw. I Day, Rev. Archdeacon Drummond, James Efq. China Davifon, Alexander Efq. Harpnr-jlreet Dunnage, John Efq. Philpot-lane Daniel, R. A. Efq. Truro, -Cornwall Dawfon, Mifs Sufanna Grofvenor-fauare Dick, Samuel Efq. Director of the Bank, Ireland D'Olier, Jeremiah Efq. Duquery, Henry Efq. Ireland Duigenan, Patrick Efq. King's Counfel, Ireland Donoughmore, David Efq. ©nsmes, WffrKam Efq. Dickfon, Stt-pfcen Efq. Daubuz, C. L. Efq. Truro, Cornwall bscribers. Davifon, George Efq. Quebec Defenfans, Mr. Chariotte-Jlreet Betemaine, John Efq. Berner's-Jlreet Delemaine, Henry Efq. ditto Dalrymple, Alexander Efq. Delafield, Jof. Efq. Cajlle-ftreet Dafliwood, Captain 3d Regiment Guards Dilly, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies E Effingham, Right Hon. Earl of Edwards, John Efq. 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Prefident of the Chamber of Commerce, Ireland Hoffman, G. G. Efq. ditto, ditto Hamilton, Sackville Efq. Hone, Jofeph Efq. UBSCRIBERS. Hayes, Samuel Efq. Avon Dale Harrifon, Captain Harris, Mr. Thomas BafinghalUJlreet Hulfe, Colonel Harper, Colonel Hunt, George Efq. Bodmin, Cornwall Hawkins, John Adair, Great Malbro'-ftr. Hunter, Robert Efq. King's Arms Tardt Coleman Jlreet Harlow, Mrs. Bookfeller, 3 Copies Hookham, Mr. 12 Copies Holl, Mr. Bookfeller, Worcejler, 6 Copies I *Jaffray, Alexander Efq. Prefident of the Chamber of Commerce, Ireland James, Mr. John St. Agnes, Cornwall Johnfon, Mr. J. Bookfeller, 6 Copies Jefferey, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies K Kingfton, Right Hon. Earl of Kirkpatrick, Lieutenant James, at Col. Kirkpatrick's, SladeHoufe,Xent Kingfbury, Thomas Efq. Kay, Mr. Bookfeller, 3 Copies Kearfley, Mr. Bookfeller, 3 Copies Leeds, His Grace the Duke of Leinfter, His Grace the Duke of Lauderdale, Right Hon. Earl of Latouche, Right Hon. 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Auftin Friars Martin, James Efq. M. P. M'Leod,-John Efq. Colbeclt, 4 Copies M'Leod, Mrs. 4 Copies Marriot, John Martin Efq. Lambs Con- duit-Jireet Malkins, Thomas Efq. Hackney M'Pherfon, Colonel 3d Regiment Guards Montagu, Captain Geo. Charles, Whitting N Newcaftle, His Grace the Duke of Nolken, His Excellency Baron, Swedifti Ambaflador Newcomen, Sir William Gleadowe, Bart., • Carrick-glafs Nepean, Evan, Efq. Under Sec. of State Newbery, Mrs. Bookfeller, 6 Copies Nicol, Mr. G- Bookfeller, 6 Copies U B S C R I Orde, Sir Johr^Bart. Gov; of Dominica O'Ngil, Right Hon. John M. P. Oxnam, Richard Efq. Penzance, Cornwall Ommanney, Edward Efq. Bedford-fquarf O'Conner, Vail Efq. Otridge, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies P Palmerfton, Right Hon. Lord Vifcount Perry, Right Hon. Lord Provoft of King's College, Dublin Power, Baron Peachey, John Efq. Wimpole-ftreet Philips, Fred. Efq. Stanley-place, Chef ire Papillon, David Efq. Lee, Kent Parfy, Thofnas Samuel Efq. Bemers-ftreet Palmer, George Efq. Pafcoe, James Efq; Penzance, Cornwall Prout, Mr; T. O. St. Agnes, ditto Pole, Charles Efq. 3 Copies Perkins, Colonel, Marines Pafley, John Efq. Jefries-fquare Parkin, Hugh Efq. China Paterfon, George Efq. Upper Norion-ftreet Payne, Mr. and Sons, Bookfellers, 6 C. Phillips, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies R Rawdon, Right Hon. Lord Rollo, Right Hon. Lord Rolle, John Efq. M. P. Chefterfield-fireet Ratcliffe, Steph. Efq. Judge of the Prerogative Court Ramage, Smith Efq. Robinfon, Arthur Efq. Rafhleigh, Charles Efq. St. Anftle, Cornw. Raihleigh, Philip Efq. Menibily, ditto Robinfon, Meffrs. Bookfellers, 25 Copies Rivingtons, Meffrs. Bookfellers, 6 Copies Richardfon, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies S Scarborough, Right Hon: Earl of Shannon, Right Hon. Earl of Strangford, Right Hon. Lord LIST O F , S U Smith, Sir John Bart. LvwerGrofvenor-ft. St. Aubyn, Sir John Bart. Clowance, Cor. ' Symonds, Sir Richard Bart. » Schomberg, Sir Alex. Bart. Sutton, Sir Richard Bart. Saunderfon, Sir James Knt. Snaith, W. Efq. Banker, 2 Copies Snaith, Thomas Efq. Manfion-Houfe-ftrttt Shank, Captain Royal Navy Sherfon, Robert Efq. Bridge-ftreet Sampfon, Captain Barnard's Inn Stettle,Amos Efq. a Bank Diredtor,Ireland Slater, Gilbert Efq. Walthamftow, Effex Smith, General Smith, Michael Efq. M. P. Smith, Mr. Arron Smyth, George Efq. China Sleigh, William Efq. Stewkfon, Captain Ely Place Salifbury Mr. V. Haymarket Stackhoufe, John Efq. Cornwall Stackhoufe, William Efq. ditto Sibthorpe, Stephen James Efq. Sibthorpe, Robert Efq. King's Counfel Shaw, Captain Ely-place Stafford, Hugh Efq. Stanley, Thomas Efq. Sewell, Mr. Bookfeller, 20 Copies Stalker, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies Shepherdfon, Meffrs- 6 Copies Strahan, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies Thomas, John Efq. Vice Warden of the Stanneries, Chiverton, Cornwall Thompfon, Theo. Efq. Deputy Gov. Tighe, Stearne, Efq. Albemarle-Jlreel Tankard, Mr. Birmingham Tyler, J. Efq. Solicitor General of Ireland Taylor, Samuel Efq. Tremayne, William, YXo^.Angarrick, Corn. Tremanhier, John Efq. Penzance, ditto S C R I E R 5. Travers, J. Efq. Dir. of the India Comp. Travels, Joh « Efq. Shepperton Tatnall, William Efq. Aldermanbury Thomas, Goan Efq. Shepperton Thoroton, ReV. Mr. John Rutland Houfi Tynte, J. Kemys Efq. Todd, Anthony Efq. Gen. Poft Office Turnbull, John Efq. Devonfhire-fquare Thwaites, Francis Efq. Bucklerfbury V Vernon, Hon. Henry Vivian, John Efq. Truro, Cornwall Urmfton, James Efq. Chigwell-hall, Ejfex Urmfton, Mr. Luke Urmfton, Mr. William Unwin,Mr. G, Stamford-ftreet, Surry-Road Urquhart, James Edward Efq. Maiding Vernon, Mr. Bookfeller, 1 Copies w Weftmoreland, Rt. Hon. Earl of, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland Winchelfea, Right Hon. Earl of Wentworth, Right Hon. Lord Vifc Wolfe, Right Hon. Arthur, Attorney . General of Ireland Willis, Rev. Mr. Tenterden-ftreet Wilkinfon, Thomas Efq. Clapham Wilbraham, Roger Efq. Williams, Thomas Efq. Adelphi Whitehoufe, Edward Charles Efq. Wilkinfon, Abraham Efq. Ward, Charles Efq. Wilfon, Rich. Efq. George-fir. Hanover-fq. Walford, Mr. Red Lionfquare Wight, Rev- Ofborne Bridewell Hofpital Wigglefworth, John Efq. Scotland-yard Wheelwright, George Efq. White Mr. and Son, Bookfellers, 6 C. Whieldon, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies Walter, Mr. ditto, Charing Crofs, 6 C. Y Yelverton, Right Hon. Lord Chief Baron, Exchequer, Ireland TABLE OF CONTENTS. INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE of the Ship Nootka, from Calcutta to the North Weft Coaft of America, in the Tears ij26 and 1787. — i OBSERVATIONS on the probable Exiftence of a North West Passage, xli 'Some ACCOUNT »//feTRADE between the North Weft Coaft of America CHAP. I. Pvepayations for the Voyage.^^Tiwma^'iClfrime of the Iftland of Atooi, and other Natives of the Sandwich Iftes embark.-r-Ghdrdcler of Tianna.—Complement of the Crew of both Sbips.-*-$ij.antity of Cattle, &c. embarked for the Sandwich Iftes.—Departure of the Felice and Iehioenia from China. — — — I CHAP. II. The Iphigenia fpringsher Formafti^Paffage to the Philippines.—Sail along the Coaft of Luconia.—Pafs Goat Bland, the Iftes of Luban, Iftand ofMindoro and the Calamines. Scurvy breaks out on board the Ii?higenia.~i>,j/j the Iftand of Panay.—Mutinous Con- duel of the Crew on board the Felice, &V.— lt CHAP. III. Sicknefs of the Sandwich Iftanders.—Death of Winee 1 her Char abler, &c. Deftruclion of Cattle.—Iftands of Bafilan and Magindanao.—The Ships anchor off the latter.—The Carpenters and Parly fent on Shore to cut a Moft, tfc.—Lofs of a China Man.—Spaniards fent on board to compliment the Ships.—Both Ships moor off Fort Caldera—Behaviour of the Spanifh Governor, &c. — CHAP. IV. Reception at Samboingan.—Friendly Behaviour of the Governor, &c. —He vifits the Ships, &c.-Tbe Felice prepares to put to Sea.-Lofes an Anchor and departs for ■ America. TABLE OF CONTENTS. America^Seme Acemnt of Magindanao, &c.—Aflronomical Obfervaiiom-f Anchorage, ' &c.—The Village of' Samboingdn.—Spanifh Force and Power.—-Defcription of a Ball given by the Governor, and the Manners of the People.—Nautical Obfervations on the Paffage between the China Seas and the Northern Pacific Ocean.—Danger of navigating the China Seas.-^-Account of the feveral Poff ages between the two Oceans, with Directions, i£c—-Paffage between Formofa and the Philippmes.~~Bafhee Iftes t—Defcriprion ofthem. — — - - - 34 CHAP. V. Departure of the Felice from Samboingan.—Pafs the Felice's Iftes.—Mention of the Orders and Infiruclions given by the Merchants Proprietors for performing the Voyage.— Extraordinary Change in the Temper of the Buffaloes received on board.—Pafs the Iftand of Magindanao<~Uapidity of the Currents*—Efcape the Iftand of Providence.—Pafs the . Talour Iflands.-.—Iftand of Sanguir.—See the North Cape.—Imfoffibility of Weathering it.-^inwriftblenefsitifihe Trade Winds laths Pacific Ocean.—Bear up to Leeward of the North-Cape.—Pafs the Iftand"kiou.—The Channel between Morintay and the-Iftand of JeldoJ-^Frdgrmoe of the Air.—Pafs the Southern Extremity of Morintay.—Reach the Sea.—f%e latitude of Morintay afcertained. — — — 6 a CHAP. VI. Ship's Courfe purfued to the Eaftwardi—Currents fet her to the Iftand of Wagiew.—-Symp~ toms if the Scurvy-among the Crew—Windveers, forthefirft Time, to the North Weft— Paf&W&gkw and the dangerous Tat-ee Iftes.—WeewiH Iftes feen.—Natives come on board^^-TBeir Jsy at feeing Irm.—^ome Acemnt of thofe iftes*—Their Latitude and Longitude, &c.—The ftrong Cmrents in their Vitimky, — — 74 CHAP. VII. Extreme Meat of 'the Weather.r-r-Very tevhpeftuous.—Spring the For■emaft^—Lefs■ *f fome of .the Cattle.—Lofe all the Goats.—Deftruclion-qf many of the Plants intended for the Sandr wich Iftes.—Reafons for pointing the Ship's Courfe to the North Weft, (3c—Mode of viblualling the Crew.—Occupations on. Board.—Intention of Building a Vtffel of fifty Tons in King George's Sound*—Carpenters complete her Moulds and Model.—Chinefe Carpenters ignorant of Ship-building.—Great Burthen of the Chinefe Junks-.—Party felected to remain in KingGeorges Somd.-^-Experience the Tail of a Tuffbon.—Change .of the Mon- foons.^Terrible EffetJs of Tuff oons m the Chinefe Seas and Northern Pacific Ocean. 83 CHAP. VIII. Landmen,.but prevented'from approaching it.—Difcovery ofIflands, which we named Grampus Ifiles.-m*Feel the Weather .extmnely 'xold, with the probable Reafmi of 'it.—Number.of • Birds TABLE OF CONTENTS. p Birds feen.—Pafs by great Quantities of Rock-weed.- Difcover aftupendous Rock, which we named Lot's Wife.—The Rafter of an Houfe, and a Piece of Canoe feen flatting on the Water.—Tempiftuous Weather.—Weather becomes flormy as the American Coaft ts approached—Crofs. the Tracks of the Refolution and Difcovery—Error of the Ship's Reckoning, (3c—A Sea Parrot feen for the firft Time—ExtraordinaryBrightnefs in the At- mofphere, and to what Caufe attributed—The Coaft of America feen—Princefs Royal fails out. of King George's Sound.—Diftrefs of the Felice, (3c—Anchor in Friendly Cove, in King George's Sound. — — — CHAP. IX. The commodious Situation of Friendly Cove, in King George's Sound.—Great Numbers of the Natives affemble to view the Ship.—The Joy ofComekela on bis Arrival, (3c.—Hannapa a Chief, comes on board.—Comekela prepares to go onjhore.—His Drefs, (3c.—Employments of the Crew.—The Arrival of Maquilla, Chief of King George's Sound, with Cal- licum, a P erf on the next in Rank to him.—ADefcription of their Dreffes,.and the Cere" monies they pratlifed on feeing the Ship.—Leave obtained to build an Houfe and Veflfel.— Callicum attaches himfelf to the Ship, and is appointed Protector of the Party on fbore, by Maquilla.—An Houfe built.—Keel of a Veffellaid—Some Account of the Murder of Callicum by the Spaniards, in the following Tear. — — I CHAP. X. Methods employed by the Natives to advance'the Price of Sea Otter Skins.—Conduct of Comekela—Made a Chief through our Influence —His Marriage.—The Magnificence of the Entertainment on the Occafton.—Maquilla and his Chiefs affeSt our Drefs and Manners* Valuable Prefent of Maquilla.—A Grindftone ftolen.—An human Hand offered for Sale.—Narrow Efcape of the Natives en the Occafton.—Melancholy Lofs of Part of the Crew of the Imperial Eagle, in 1787.—Sufpicion that Maquilla is a Cannibal.—Extraordinary Pillow of Callicum.—The Inhabitants of Friendly Cove remove to a fmall CHAP. XI. Ship prepares to put to Sea.—Pinnace ftolen by the Natives—Impoffibility of recovering her. —Some Uneafmejfes on board the Ship.—Officers and Party intended to be left- on fhore landed—Proviftons made for equipping the new Veffel—A formal Vifit to Maquilla, and Renewal of the Treaty, (3 c—He is made acquainted with the probable Time of the Iphi- genia's Arrival—Requefts a Letter for the Captain—Our Aftonifhment at his Knowledge, and by what Means it was obtained—Story of Mr. Maccay—Callicum arrives from hunting the Sea Otter—Articles, which had belonged to Sir Jofeph Banks in his Pofleffion.—The Ship puts to fea—Plan of future Proceedings, (3c. _I 12? CHAP. TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAP. XIL fai' TBe Chiefs Hanna and Detootche vifit the-Ship on her Way to the Reftdence of Wicananifh, (3c.—Wicananifh pilots the Ship into his Roadfted.—Numbers of the Inhabitants come off to the Ship —The Country and Village of Wicananifh deferibed.—Vifit paid to the Chief. —Defcription of bis Houfe.—Their Ingenuity a fubjeel of Aftonifhment.—Immenfe Family of Wicananifh.—His Wives,- their Beauty, (3c.—Brifk Trade carried on with the Natives.—Murder of a Stranger by the People of the Village.—Ihe Ship obliged by bad Weather to enter the Inner Port, named Port Cox, — — 134 CHAP. XIII. The People of Wicananifh lefs civilized than thofe at Nootka.—Certain neceffary Precautions occafton a Coolnefs between us and the Chief.—Good Under/landing reftored.—Ufe of Fire Arms known to thefe People.—The Village removes to a fmall Diftance.—Treaty between Wicananifh, Hanna and Detootche.—Good Confequences refulting to us from the Treaty.— Prefents made to and received from Wicananifh.—Prcfent arrives from King George's Sound, (3c.—Prepare for Sea.—The Felice proceeds on her Voyage,—Defcription of Port Cox, (3c. — — — — — 144 CHAP. XIV. Purfue our Courfe to the Southward-—Numerous Villages feated on the Shore.—The Inhabitants come off to ihe Ship.—Difcover the Straits of John de Fuca.—Their Extent and Situation.—Tatootche comes on board.—Bad Behaviour of the Natives,—Purfue our Courfe along the Coaft.—Short Account of the Straits of John de Fuca—Faffed the Iftand of Tatootche and numerous Villages.—Dangerous Coaft. Violence of the South Eafl Storms.— Cape Flattery.—Village of Claffet.—Ship enters the Bay of Queenbithe—Savage Appearance of the Place.—See the Village of Qutemitett.—Definition Ifte—Danger of the Ship, (3c. — — — — — 15° CHAP. XV. Our Progrefs along the Coaft.—Dif cover Shoalwater Bay.—Natives come off.—Their honeft Dealing.—Purfue our Courfe.—Deception Bay.—Difference-between the Spanifh Charts of Maurelle and the real Situation of the Coaft .—Beautiful Appearance of the Country.— Pafs ghiickfand Bay and Cape Look-out—See three remarkakk. Rocks—Clofe our Progrefs to the Southward.—Future Plan of Proceeding.—Parts left unexplored by Captain Cook, now viftted—Purfue our Courfe to the North.—Anchor in. Port Effingham.—A Defcription of it, (3c. — . — — ~ — 161 CHAP. XVI. Take Poffeffion of lhe.StrMs-of.de.Fuca in the. Name of the King of Great Britain—Viftted by the Natives.—Long-boat equipped andflep on.an Expedition.—Strangers refort to the.ghfp.^ % TABLE OF CONTENT}. nt of the Long%ffi, which at hngth. arrives.—Reafon Page —Anxiety on Account of the Long-boM, w&b U ttngw.. arrives—acajou of her quick Return—Conffa with the Natives of the Straits of de Fuca.—Diftance advanced up the Straits of de Fuca—Pofition of them—Human Heads offered >.fak—-Prepare for Sea- Leave Fort Effingham—Account of the Port and Sound—Progrefs of the new Veffel, (3c. >73 CHAP. XVII. Anxiety of the Party on Shore.—Reports fpread by the Natives—Improvement made in the Houfe, (3c.—Aftonifhment of the Natives at the Building of the Veffel—Our Obfervation of the Sabbath an Objetl of Curiofity to them.—Some Knowledge of their Religion derived from thence—Defign of proceeding again to Port Cox.—Our Intentions frufirated—Mutiny on Board. The Per fins concerned in it turned on Shore, (3c. — — 183 CHAP. XVIII. Conduit of the Party on Shore, refpettng the Mutiny—The Mutineers go to live with Maquilla and Callicum—Are firipped of their Cloaths, and made to work.—Princefs Royal feen in the Offing.—Prepare for Sea—Quit King George's Soundafecond Time.—Maquilla and Callicum prepare for War.—Arms lent to them.—Strength of Maquilla's Forces.—He departs on his Expedition to the Northward.—Infiruftlohs given to the Party on Shore, (3c. — 190 CHAP. XIX. Sail for Port Cox.—Meet the Princefs Royal.—Anchor in Port Cox.—Wicananifh 'removed to Clioquatt.—Long-boat fent there with Prefents, (3c.—Defcription of Clioquatt.—Wicananifh arrives on board, to take his Leave.— His Son propofes to embark with as, which we decline.—Put to Sea, and Anchor again in King George's Sound.—Arrival of the Iphi- genia.—Tianna's affeStionate Behaviour, (3c.—Arrival of Maquilla and Callicum from their Expedition, (3c. — — — — l(,q CHAP. XX. The Crew of the Iphigenia employed on the new Veffel—Inhabitants prepare to retire to their Winter Quarters—Difpofitions relative to the exiled Part of the Crew Maquilla and GaBi- cum pay us a Vifit previous to their Departure.—A Sadften in the- Offing, which proves to be the American Sloop Wafhington—Some Account of her Voyage, (3c.—The new Vtfiftl named andiaunched,—Orders delivered to the Iphigenia.—7ws»<j embarks on board' h&.~n®uit King George's Sound, end proceed to the Sandwich Iflands CHAP. XXI. General Account of the Nations feen on the North Weftern Coaft of America—Their Situation, Villages, Population, (3c—Knowledge of the People to the Southward of ^ueenhithe, in a great Degree conjectural—Some Account of the American Continent, from Cape s'aint James to the Southward.—Climates—Seafons—-Winds—Storms—HarBem^-Navim- tion; (3c. — — _ _ & — 226 CHAP. TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAP. XXII. '"'' Account of the Diftritl of Nootka continued,—Vegetable ProduSions.—Great Plenty afW&d - Fruits—Efculent Roots, (3c.— Quadrupeds—Deer—Foxes—Martens—The Ermine— , Squirrel, (3c. —Marine Animals -.—The Whale, Sword-Fifh, Seals, (3c. —Particular Account of the Sea Otter.—Various Kinds of Birds.—Aquatic Fowls.—Fiflh of various Kinds.—Manner of taking fome of them.—Reptiles.—Infeils.—Minerals.—Conjectures . concerning Mines in this Country, (3c. (3c. — — 226 CHAP. XXIII. The Perfons of the Inhabitants defcribed.—The Manner in which they treat their Infant Children —Their Averfton to Beards—Dreffes, Male and Female.—Various Kinds of them.—Their Mq/ks, and the Ufes of them.-—Difpofition andTemper of the Natives.—An horrid Cuftom of killing a Slave every Month, for the Purpqfe of eating him.—The Ceremonies ufedon this Occafton.—Circumftance which led to the Difcovery of this Praclice, (3c, 249 CHAP. XXIV. Employments of the Men of Nootka.—They confift, in general, of hunting different Marine ■ and Land Animals.—Killing the Whale, (3 c defcribed.—Method of hunting the Sea-Otter, the Seal, (3c.—Their more domeftic Occupations.—Making Implements for Fifhing and War.—Their Canoes:—A Defcription of them.—A particular Manner of Fifting—Employments of the Women.—Manner of collecting and preferving the Roes of Fifh.—The Difpofition of the People to War.—Cuftom of exchanging their Women.—Religion, (3c. 258 CHAP. XXV. The Felice proceeds on her Voyage.—Arrive off Owhyhee.—Heave to in Tce-yah-yah Bay. The prefent State of that Iftand.—Prefent, in the Name ofTianna, to the Chief of it.— Leave Owhyhee.—Improvement-in falling Provifions.—Pafs the Iflands ofMowee, Rami, Morotoi and Woaboo.—Arrive offAtooi.—The political State of that Iftand.—Arrive at Oneeheow.—Proceed on the Voyage.—Make the Iftand of Botol Tobago Xima.—Round the Rocks of Ville Rete.—Make ihe Coaft of China.—Anchor in the Roads of Macao. 272 CHAP. XXVI. VOYAGE OF THE IPHIGENIJ, CAPT. DOUGLAS. Conduit of the Governor of Samboingan to Captain Douglas, after the Departure of the Fe- LICe. The Iphigenia fails from Samboingan.—Arrives off a fmall Iftand, now named. Jobnftone's Iftand.—Tawnee, a Sandwich Iftander, dies.—Pafs through the PelewIftes, (3c. 287 CHAP. XXVII. See the Iftand ofAmluk—See Land, which- is miflaken for Trinity Iftand.—A moft violent Gale.—Defcription of the Land.—See ihe Iftand of KodiaL—-Arrive off Trinity Iftand. — j Vtfited CONTENTS. Viftted by two Canoes—Send the Jolly-boat on Shore, to try for Fifh.-See Cape Greville. —Pafs the Barren Ijlands—Receive a Vifit from a Ruffian and fome Kodiak Hunters.— Run up Cook's River—Communication with the Natives—Weigh anchor, and fleer to the South End of Montague Iftand—Stand in for Snug-corner Bay, (3c. (3c. — 301 CHAP. XXVIII. Sail from Snug-comer Bay.-Pafs Kaye's Iftand—Clofe in with Cafe Suckling.—Send the Long-boat into Bhering's Bay—-Set-ijlands of Ice—-Purchafe a great Number of Sea- \ Otter Skins, (3c. of the Natives of Crofs Cape—Afingular Example of the Power of ihe Women among them Steer into Sea-Otter Bay.—Pafs Douglas Iftand.—Enter a Bay, called Meares's Bay.—Pafs Rofe Point.—Join the Felice at Nootka, (3c. — 317 CHAP. XXIX. The Iphigenia and N. W. America leave Nootka Sound-—Arrive off the Iftand o/Mowee. — Tianna receives his Brother on board—Arrive off Owhyhee.—A Vifit from the King- Anchor in Karakakooa Bay.—Ceremony of receiving Captain Douglas on Shore.—The N. W. America and Iphigenia part from their Cables.—Sufpeel the Natives of this Ail of Treachery.—The Divers employed, and recover the Cables, (3c.—Tianna leaves the . Ship, to fettle in Owhyhee.—Account of the late Change in the Government there, (3c. 334 CHAP. XXX. Arrive off Woahoo.—Reception given by Titeeree to Captain Douglas.—Proceed to Atooi.-— Taheo, the Sovereign, retires up the Country.—Returns, and vifits the Iphigenia.— Captain cautioned offecret Deftgns againft him.—Proceed towards Oneeheow.—Forced by contrary Gales to Woahoo,—Arrive at Owhyhee.—Alliance entered into by the Princes off - the neighbouring Ijlands.—Afjiftance given by Captain Douglas to the Sovereign of Owhyhee, and Tianna.—Quit Owhyhee.—Difpute among the Seamen at Wymoa Bay.—Proceed to Oneeheow for Tarns.—Quit the Sandwich Ijlands, (3c. — ,47 CHAP. XXXI. Proceed to the N. W. Coaft of America—Pafs Bird Iftand—Arrive at Nootka Sound—Ar- rivalofa Spanijh Ship.—Seizure of the Iphigenia, (3c—She is obliged to leave Nootka, and proceeds to the Northward.—Anchors off a Village, named Fort Pitt—Defcription of Buccleugh's Sound.—Anchor in Haines's Cove.—An Account of Mac Intire's Bay I Examine Cox's Channel.—A De/ign formed by the Natives to get Poffeffion of the Ship Trade with the Natives of fat anee—Return to the Sandwich Ijlands—Efcape from a Defign of the King and Chiefs of Owhyhee—Proceed to China—Arrive at Macao (3c a Co TABLES of the Route of ihe Felice, (3c—The Vai Meteorological Observations during the Voyage APPENDIX, containing Official Papers, (3c. riation of the Compass ; and fe-sr ;»**aS| uqoriq'6Vi^ 88Zi A CHART ofthe NORTHERN PACIFIC OCEAN, Containing the N.E. C OAST of ASIA &N/W COAST oi M E RIC A, Explored in ijj 8 ^tyjc^bv Captain Cook, and further Explored in ij8Q Sci]8g,hy John Meares. 540 MB Bw ||!" Bill BBC 2UO 77f.fi £^2 seenbrMTfleai-n aqixcable to -.. „ .... r Cap." Cooks Chart Coppermine RiTtL^ Palmer, si;< INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE OF THE NO 0rO,-CAPT. MEARES, FROM CALCUTTA, TO THE NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, In the Years 1786, and 1787. IT might, perhaps, prove uninterefting to the reader were I to enter upon the hiftory of this commercial expedition,—or to dwell on the patriotic fpirit of many diftinguifhed perfons at Bengal which fupported it, as well as thofe honourable marks of zealous friendlhip and liberal confidence, which accompanied its confignment to my care.—It might alfo be equally unimportant to others to be informed of the oppofition it received,—the arts employed to fruftrate it,—and the various, as well as painful difficulties I had to furmount in the arrangement of it:—I fhall, therefore, proceed at once to relate the principal occurrences of the voyage which it occafioned. On the 20th of January 1786, two veflels were purchafed for the purpofe of this expedition, which were named the Nootka, of 200 tons, and the Sea Otter, of 100 tons. The former was commanded by myfelf, the latter by William Tipping, a lieutenant in the Royal Navy. A By m INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE, By the 20th of February, they were ready for fea, when two offers were made to the committee, who were, appointed to arrange the neceflary preparations for the voyage, on the part of the general body of proprietors : the one was to freight the Sea Otter to Malacca with opium, which would be a gain of about three thoufand rupees ;—The committee, therefore, did not hefitate an mftant in accepting it; and the Sea Otter was immediately difpatched on her voyage :— From Malacca Captain Tipping was to proceed to the North Weft Coaft of America, and the neceflary arrangements were made for our meeting there-. - The other offer was to convey Mr. Burke, Pay-mafter General of the King's Forces, in India, with his fuite, to Madras, for which he propofed to pay the fum of three thoufand rupees.—This advantage was not to be refufed, and accordingly I had the honour of conveying him thither. On the 2d of March, we got under fail and proceeded as far as the governor's garden, where in the evening we received, Mr. Burke and his fuite or* board. On the 12th of March we loft fight of land, and proceeded on our voyage- to Madras, where we arrived on the 27th, without the intervention of any occurrence worthy of relation.—Our paflage was efteemed extremely quick at that particular feafon of the year.—After landing our paffengers and procuring additional fupplies of ftores and provifions, by the kind affiftance of Tof. Dupree Porcher, Efq. we prepared to put to fea, which we accordingly did on the 7th of April, the very day that his Excellency Sir Archibald Campbell arrived to take upon him the government of Madras. At this place we received every mark of kindneft, attention* and encouragement. Nor among the many towhomweareftill grateful for favour and for friendmip, can we hefitate to mention the names of Mr. Burke, Mr. Porcher, and Mr. Boyd, as well as to acknowledge the peculiar obligation* we received from his Excellency Go- vemor Davidfon, It INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. Si It may not be improper to mention that, at the time of our leaving Bengal, all kinds of ftores were fo extremely fcarce, that the fhip was but barely equipped for one year; and as for provifions, we had not on board fufficient for twelve months, and nothing was more apparent than the impofiibility of completing a voyage of this nature in fuch a ftate. We had, indeed, looked to Madras in fome meafure, for the affiftance we received, which was to compleat our equipment' for eighteen months. With refpe£t to the number of our crew we were ftrongly manned, but they were chiefly of a defcription that neceflity rendered acceptable. The whole amounted to forty Europeans, including the purfer, furgeon, five officers, and boatfwain, and ten lafcars whom we took in at Madras. But all our exertions were fruitlefs in obtaining a carpenter, and the want of fuch an artizan was moft feverely felt in every part of the voyage. It was the 23d of May before we arrived at Malacca :—our paflage was un- ufually tedious, and afforded time for the fcurvy to make its appearance. In this early part of our voyage we loft the boatfwain, who was one of the beft men in the fhip, and, in our fituation and circumftances, proved an irreparable misfortune. On our arrival at Malacca we were informed that Captain Tipping had failed for America, having compleated his bufinefs there. Here we wooded, watered and took in the neceflary refrefhments, not only to fupply the provifions already exhaufted, but to enable us to give every poffible affiftance to Captain Tipping, when we fhould meet him on the Coaft of America. On the aoth we put to fea, after faluting the Dutch Fort with nine guns, which compliment was returned with an equal mark of refpecT:. In a very few days we effe&ed our entrance into the China Seas, and purfued our courfe with a ftrong South Weft Monfoon, till the 22d of June, when the Bafhee Iflands were feen bearing Eaft South Eaft half Eaft, diflant nine leagues. But it was the 26th before we could come to an anchor, at Grafton Ifle, which we then did, in a fmall and pleafant bay, in fix fathoms of water, and about a quarter of a mile from the fhore. A 2 This INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE, This bay is furrounded by high land, which is cultivated to the fum- mits, and the plantations, &c. being divided into inclofures neatly fenced in, afford a very pleafing view. A large village was fituated on a gentle eminence near the water ; fine groves of trees were fancifully difperfed on the fides of the mountains, while a rapid rivulet glided through the valley ; the whole forming a fcene of uncommon beauty. About four years before, the Spaniards had taken poffeffion of thefe Ifles, in the expectation of finding the bowels of them enriched with the precious metals. The governor and his garrifon, &c. treated us with great civility,' nor did they, in the leaft, interfere with oxir little trading communications with the .natives,—who appear to be a moft inoffenfive race of people. We remained here four days, during which time we obtained great plenty of hogs, goats, ducks, fowls, yams, and fweet potatoes, in return for unwrought iron. On the ift of July we took our leave of the Bafhee Iflands, and fteered to *he North Eaft, a courfe along the Japan Ifles, but without feeing any land; The charts lay down ifles which we muft have gone over, according to the fituation in which they are placed. After paffing the latitude of 250 North, we had e continual fog, which was oftentimes fo thick, that it was impoffible to fee the length of the veffel. On the ift of Auguft, having laid to the preceding night, we judged that we were, near land, and in the morning, at day-light, we got fight of it, through the Fog Banks, when we found it to confift of the Ifles of Amluc and Atcha. We ftood in for the former, and anchored there for two days, during which time we were vifited both by the Ruffians and the natives. In our paffage to Ounalafchka we were driven among five iflands where dangers furrounded us on all fides, and without being able to fee our way, but we providentially efcaped them. It had, indeed, been one continued fog ever fince we croffed the latitude of 35°, and from that time we had not been able to make more than two obfervations. We very fortunately had a time piece on board, which proved of the greateft utility. £tn h INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. v The five ifles among which we had been fo much embarraffed, are defcribed in Coxe's Ruffian Difcoveries by the names of Pat Sopka :—that writer alfo mentions the 'deftra&ion which many of the Ruffian Navigators have found between thefe ifles and Kamfchatka. They are uninhabited, and feem to be nothing more than huge maffes of entire rock. Two of them bear a ftrong refemblance to each other, and poffefs rather a correct form of a fugar loaf. On the 5th of Auguft in the afternoon we found ourfelves furrounded by a great number of canoes, which, from the drefs and manners of the people in them, we were certain muft belong to fome of the ifles, though we imagined ourfelves to be too far to the Southward for them to come off. This little fleet was engaged in the bufinefs of whale fifhing, and after flopping a fhort time to examine the veffel, which they did with every appearance of extreme admiration, they left us and paddled off to the Northward. We now fleered a little more to the Southward, as we fuppofed that the current had fet us to the Northward of our reckoning. " The fog continued to be fo very thick, that it was impoffible to fee any obje£t at twenty yards diftance from the fhip; — but from the number of canoes we had paffed, there was every reafon to fup- pofe we were in the neighbourhood of land, which "muft, in aM probability, have been theiflandof Amouchta. • The following night we were alarmed by hearing the furge of the fea upon the fliore ;—we inftantly tacked, and when we had flood on about two hours, we were re-alarmed with the fame noife. We tacked again and as foon as it was day-light, we caught a glimpfe of the land, over the mart-head, which appeared to be covered with fnow. But the fog again became impervious to our fight, as it were, to encreafe the horrid fufpenfe of our fituation.— • During four days of gloom in our minds, as Well as in the air, we were continually endeavouring, but in vain, to obtain a paflage, but every way appeared to be blocked up againft us. The hoarfe dafhing of the furge drove us from, one fide, in order to be re-impelled by the fame alarming warnings on the other *i INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. other. We had, indeed, every reafon to believe that we had pafled by fome narrow inlet into a gulph furrounded with-fatal mores', and from which there was no return but by the channel through which we entered. Though we were frequently within an hundred yards of the rocks, foundings were impracticable, and the fteepnefs of the fhore rendered our anchors of no ufe. On the 5th in the morning, the fog cleared away, and gave us a moft awful profpect of dangers which our happy experience was fcarce fufficieiit to convince us that it was poffible to have efcaped. We now faw ourfelves furrounded with land of a tremendous height, which was covered two-thirds down its fides with fnow; while the coaft was inacceffible from the lofty, perpendicular rocks which formed .a regular wall, except where the violent beating of the fea had made thofe excavations which, with the rife and fall of a prodigious fwell, occafioned the warning noife that proved our prefervation. We now faw two open channels, one to the Southward, through which we had been driven, and another to the North Weft, Indeed if we fteered at all to that point we fhould at once have got clear of our alarming fituation : but we had been all along apprehenfive of getting to the Northward of thefe ifles being aware of the difficulty of getting again to the Southward, the currents being well known to take a Northerly direction in the fumraex; and then we might have been detained an uncertain length of time, till a ftrong Northerly- wind arofe to drive us back—the South Wefterly winds being the moft generally prevalent in thefe feas at this period of the year. Finding it, however impoffible to go to the Southward, by the .channel through which we came on account of the ftrength of the current, we bore up and. went to the Northward, and having got as far to the Eaftward as Ounalafhka, we were fo fortunate as to meet with a ftrong North wind, which enabled us to get through between Unamah and Onalafhka. In thefe ftraits the current could not run lefs than feven knots an hour, which caufed a moft .tremendous lea. When INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. ni When we got round to the South fide of the ifland, a Ruffian came off to us and piloted our fhip into an harbour adjacent to that in which Captain Coo . refitced. The Ruffians on thefe ifles, came from Ochotfk and Kamfchatka in galleot of about 50 tons burthen, having from fixty to eighty men each. They heave their veffels up in fome convenient place, during their ftation here, which is for eight years; at the end of which time they are relieved by another party.— They hunt the fea-otters and other animals whom nature has cloathed in furs* The natives of the different diftri&s are alfb- employed in the fame occupations,, and are obliged to give the fruits of their toil, as a tribute to the Emprefs of Ruffia, to whom this trade exclusively belongs.—In return, they receive fmalL quantities of fnuff, of which they are immoderately fond; and, obtaining that favourite article, they are content with-their wretched condition, from whence, as far as ' refpects any exertion of their own, they will never emerge. As to iron, or any other European commodity, it is as fcarce with them,, as with, thehr continental neighbours. The houfes of the Ruffians- are conftrudted upon the fame principles: as." thofe of the natives, but on a plan of larger extent. They confift of cavities dug in the earth, and a ftranger might be in danger of falling, into them, without having the leaft fufpicion that he was within' the vepge of any habitation ; as the only entrance into thefe fubterraneous places of refidence, is through a round hole at the top of them, and by apoft with fteps cufcin.it, as the means of defcent. Indeed, fuch an accident happened, on the firft evening of our landing, to the firft officer and furgeon of the Nootka.:—On their return from a Ruffian village,, they fuddenly difappeared through one of thefe holes, and intruded themfelves,, in a very unexpe&ed manner, to an houfehold of the natives. The fright on the occafion was mutual;—the one hurrying out of the place as-faft as-their fears could carry them, leaving the fallen gentlemen, in expectation that the invaded people, with whofe mild and amiable manners they were not then acquainted, viii INTRODUCTORY VOYA ^E. quainted, would inftantly give the alarm, and call their friends to revenge the innocent invafion by murder and maffacre.-They found, however, on their return above ground, that the natives had fled in extreme confufion and affright " t0 the Ruffian village. The next morning, the accident was explained; and a fmallprefent of tobacco made the poor people ample recompence for the alarm of the preceding evening. The fides of thefe dwellings are divided into copartments" for the purpofe of fleeping,—the fkins of animate ferving them for their beds; and in the center is the place for dreffing and eating their victuals. In the very cold weather, they ufe lamps inftead of wood :—as there are no trees on the iflands, wood muft be a very fcarce article, having no other fupply, but the accidental drifts of it from the continent. Their diet confifts entirely of fifh with the oil of the fame for fauce. This manner of living is common both to the Ruffians and the natives, except that the former boil their food, and the latter eat it in a raw ftate. We have frequently feen them eat, or rather devour, the head of a cod or a halibut, immediately after it was caught, with all the figns of voracious fatisfact.ion. The only vegetable thefe iflands produce is wild cellery, which the natives eat as it is pulled o'ut of the ground. Though the Ruffians have been fo long fettled on thefe iflands, they have produced no kind of cultivation whatever. They have not any of the domeftic fowls or animals, except dogs;—nor had we an opportunity to examine whether this want of comforts and conveniencies, which, are of fuch eafy attainment, arofe from local barrennefs, or their own indolence. Their fole dependance for food, is oh the produce of the fea and the rivers, which, however, afford them .great abundance of excellent fifh; and, if a proper judgment may be formed from the ftrong and healthy appearance of the natives, er the colonifts, they -do not want a more wholefome or ftrengthening fuftenance. The [ mt ROD UCTORY VOYAGE. The natives of thefe ifles, which are known by the appellation of the Fox Iflands, are a fhort and ftout race of people, with full round countenances, that bear no traces of a favage difpofition.—They do not cut, fcarrify, or in any manner disfigure their faces, like the natives of the continent; and are, to all appearance, of an harmlefs and inoffenfive character. Jealoufy, at leaft, is not among their ordinary paffions, as they difcover no fymptoms of difpleafure at any attentions which ftrangers may be difpofed to pay to the female part of their community. The only animals on thefe iflands are foxes, fome of which are black, and whofe fkins are very valuable. While we lay here, we endeavoured to engage the Ruffians to trade with us ; but they fet too high a value on their furs to difpofe • of them to us, at leaft for any thing we had to give in retrirlS; more particularly as they expe&ed to be relieved the following year. The harbour we entered is fituated about ten or twelve miles from that where Captain Cook refitted, and lies in the latitude of 54.0 2' North ; longitude, 1930 25' Eaft of Greenwich. On the 20th day of Auguft, we failed from Ounalafhka, in order to run down the continent, till we fhould pafs the Shumagin Iflands, as Captain Cook defcribes Kodiak one of the Southern. Indeed, we wifhed to be clear of the Ruffian fettlements, as we knew nothing was to be got in the vicinity of them, before we went on the coaft. On the 27th of Auguft, we arrived in fight of the Schumagins; and at about four leagues from the fhore, a great number of canoes came off to us, which we obferved to be of the fame conftructien as thofe of the Fox Ifles; and that the drefs and manners of the people in them were the fame as the natives of thofe iflands. It appears that the Ruffians, wherever they are fettled, from fome political reafon, as we fuppofe, prohibit the natives from keeping canoes of a fize to carry jS more x INTRODUCTORY VOYA #E. more than one perfon. Thefe canoes are generally about twelve feet in length,. ftiarp at each end, and about twenty inches broad, tapering to a point: their depth in the center, where the man fits,- is about twenty inches. The canoes ot this make extend from the ftraits of the two continents along the coaft as far as Cape Edgecumbe. Some of them are made to carry three perfons; but, in general, not more than one or two. The frame is compofed of very thin ftrips of the pine wood, fattened together with whale finews, and is then covered with the fki-n of the feal or fea-cow, which is- previously robbed of its hair. The bottom of the {kin-frock, which the natives wear, ties over the hole of the canoe,: where the man fits, and prevents the fmalleft drop of water from getting in^ Thefe veflels are paddled at a prodigious rate,, and go out.in any weather. It was now the 28th of Auguft, and no advantage had yet arifen from the. voyage; butras"we fuppofed ourfelves to be at the termination of the Ruffian fet- tlements, and had a large track of coaft to run down, we expected to have made an advantageous trade before the wmterfet in, which was now haftUy approaching. With this defignywe purpofed to make one port to the Weftward of CookV River,—and, in coafting along, we faw a large opening, which appeared to be formed by an iftand: we accordingly fteered in for it,—and, when we were in with it, it appeared of very great extent, taking a North Eafterly courfe. As we now thought ourfelves-clear of the Ruffians, we were in continual expectation of being vifited by the natives, and-commencing the advantageous part of our voyager though we are at a lofs how to reconcile it, that fo large a (trait fliould not have been obferved by Captain Cook. Having continued our courfe up it, about twenty leagues, a canoe eame off to us from the inland fide, with three people in it, one of-whom-came-on board, who proved to be a Ruffian) feaman.—He was a< vesy intelligent man-, and informed us that this was the iftand «f Kodiak, that the crews of three galliots were on duty there, and that there was another ifland of the fame name'along the coait* 1 I NT RODUCTORY VOYAGE. *l This intelligence was by no means pleafing, as it daflied at once all our hopes of obtaining any trade, at any intermediate place, between Cook's River and the Schumagin Ifles. We therefore continued our paflage through the ftraits, which were named Petrie's Strait, in honour of Wm. Petrie, Eiq. and found it brought us out near that point forming Cook's River, and diftinguiftied by the name of Cape Douglas on Captain Cook's chart. Thefe ftraits are upwards often leagues in length and about fifteen in breadth, and cut off a very large tract of continent from the former charts. We anchored under Cape Douglas, and foon after feveral canoes came off to us of the River Indians. They fold us two orthree otter fkins, for which they received fome pieces of unwrought iron, about a pound, perhaps, for each Ikin. They appeared to be greatly rejoiced to fee us, and offered us every thing they had in their boats as prefents. Thefe people by_ refufing tobacco plainly proved that they had no connection with the Ruffians, and by frequently pronouncing the word Englifh, Englifh, it appeared alfo that the Nootka was not the firft veffel of our country which had been feen by them. Indeed it afterwards appeared that the King George and Queen Charlotte from London had been there before us. The canoes very fhortly left us to go up the river in fearch of more {kins, and the following day we faw two large ioats coming down the river, with about eighteen men in each. They proved to be Ruffians who had been up Cook's River on a trading voyage ; and each boat had a brafs field-piece with fmall arms for each man. They had left their fummer refidence which is the lower ifland in Cook's River, and were proceeding to their winter quarters on the ifland of Kodiak. It was now the 20th of September, and the weather extremely boiftero$& fo that we determined to quit the river, where we had been detained by feveral heavy gales of wind, and proceed to Prince William's Sound, and, if practicable, to winter there. On our arrivai'at Snug Corner Cove, in Prince William's Sound, as named by Captain Cook, the weather was"very vi&Ienf, and daring the three days we lay there not a native appeared; w&eh cirenmftauce led us to conclude, that the natives had retired from the t&aft, or were gone to the South- B 2 ward ^i INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. ward for the winter. In our excurfions on fhore, we faw fome wood -which had been frefh cut, and by an edge tool; we alfo found a piece of bamboo, which futjy fatisfied us that fome veffel muft have very lately preceded us; and as our appointed rendezvous, with our confort the Sea Otter, was at this place, .we very naturally concluded that fhe had been here, and was failed for China. This was a fituation pregnant with difficulties:—the coaft was to all appearance without inhabitants, fo that if we remained here dating the winter, there was no profpeft of our being able to procure trade or refrefhments. On the other hand, the bad weather had fet in, with continual gales of wind, accompanied' with fleet and fnow; and if we quitted our prefent fituation,. it was very doubtful whether we fhould be able to make another, and therefore be obliged to run for the Sandwich Ifles, which would, in all probability, have put an end to the voyage, as our feamen were becoming extremely diSatisfied. In this Stuation it was determined to prefer an ihbofpitable winter in Princea William's Sound, to all the comforts of the Sandwich Iflands, from whence, it was with good reafon imagined, that it would have been a matter of great difficulty, if not wholly impracticable, to perfuade the feamen to return to the Coaft of America. Under thefe difficulties we laboured ; but as the object of the voyage and the intereft of the proprietors were deeply concerned in fupportins the h.ardfhips which threatened us, and the mortifications we fhouM experience- we refolved to bear the one and to fubmit to the other. A very little reflection on the limited power of a mercantile officer, and the want of a due fubordination. in a mercantile fhip, will enable any one to believe that in remaining here we were not at leaft deficient in zeal for the interefts of thofe who promoted. and fupported this commercial expedition.. On the 4th day, ftveral canoes, came haved in a very friendly; and affable manner. Englifh names, which appeared to be thofe of the They alfo made us underftand that a veflel, with t ff to us, and the natives Be* They mentioned feveral crew of the Sea Otter. vo mafts, had failed from, thence INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. siii thence but a few days before, and that they had plenty of fkins, which, they explained to us, by pointing to the number of the hairs of their heads. They alfo informed us, after their manner, that if we would ftay, they would kill plenty of otters for us during the winter. Being now fatisfied that the Sound was inhabited, nothing but a good harbour was wanting to determine us to ftay here during the fevere feafon ; and the next day the boats found a very commodious one,, about fifteen miles Eaft North Eaft, from where we lay. Accordingly, on the 7th of October, the veffel was removed to the place appointed; {he was then unrigged, and the people began to work on fhore to ereft a log-houfe for the armourers to work hi ; which, from the prefent ftate of the veffel-,, might alfo be. ufeful in containing lumber. hsndadj The' natives now favoured us with their daily vilits, and never failed' to exert their very extraordinary talents in the art of thievery. They would employ fuch a flight of hand in getting iron materials of any kind, as is hardly to be conceived. It has often been obferved when the head of a nail- cither in the fhip or boats ftood a little without the wood, that they would apply their teeth in order to pull it out. Indeed, if the different loffes we fuf- tained, and the manner of them-were to be related, many a reader would have reafon to fufpeft that this page exalted the purloining talents of thefe people,. at the expence of truth. It was now the middle of October and we had collected a few fkins. The natives alfo affembled in greater numbers, and became fo very troublefome as to perplex us very much, in regard tothe manner in which we fhould conduct ourfelves towards them. Policy and humanity both inftructed us to avoid, if poffible, any violent correctives, but it very often happened, that our people who were employed on ffiore in wooding and erecting the houfe, were, obliged to come off to the fhip, as the natives would.come down from.the woods, behind; xir INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. hind them, and endeavour to take away whatever tools they had in ufe.—As the veffel lay fo near the place where the people were at work, that we could talk to them, we did not allow them fire-arms, unlefs they were accompanied with a careful officer, left an improper ufe fhould be made of them; and we had hitherto found that the firing a mufquet from the fliip would at all times drive the natiyes away. On the 25th of October, a large party of Indians were perceived coming into the creek, and as there appeared to be a greater number than we had feen aflem- ■ bled before, we called to our people to come on board, and they not coming immediately, the Indians got up a-breaft of the veffel, and immediately landed where they were at work:—at the fame moment another party joined them from the woods.—As the natives in the canoes went on {hore in fpite of all our fignals to prohibit them, two of our guns were ordered to be pointed at them, which had the defired effect; as they were at this time endeavouring to take away the axes from our people on fhore. But on perceiving the preparations we were making, they cried out in their ufual manner, lauli-lauli, or friend, friend, and extended wide their arms as a token of amity. Having got all our people on board, it was thought to be a proper opportunity to difperfe the natives, who were now affembled in fuch confiderable numbers, by {hewing them the power of our cannon, and accordingly a twelve pound cannonade was fired with grape fhot, which difplayed its effects upon the water to their extreme aftonifhment, and indeed threw them into fuch a panic, that one half of them overfet their canoes from fright. A three pound field piece was then difcharged from the fhore, with a i.und fhot, which grazing along the^ furface of the water to a confiderable diftance, convinced them that it was power to throw the fhot to whatever point, and in whatever direction we thought proper. While they * deliberating, as it were, in a ftate of no common apprehenfion, we made ': was not our intention to do them any injury while they INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. xr they conducted themfelves to us in an honeft and friendly manner, and that it was our wifh to engage in trade with them, by purchafing their fkins with fuch articles as we had got for that propofe. Thefe articles were then offered to their attention, when, after repeated fhouts of joy, fuch as were dreffed in furs, inftantly ftripped themfelves, and in return for a moderate quantity of large fpike nails, we received fixty fine fea-otter {kins. To- conciliate their friendfhip, the principal men among them were prefented with, beads of various colours, and they promifed to bring us fkins as faft as they could procure them; This attempt was certainly pre-meditated, as thefe people never make-war upon each other in thofe large boats, which they •employ fblely to carry away their old men, women, and-children, on the approach of an enemy i and they are called by them the women&r boats. They now made ufe of them for the purpofe of landing a great number at once, that they might be certain of cutting off the retreat of our workmen. But though this fcheme proved abortive, we had ho reafon to fuppofe that they would, or perhaps could refill an opportunity of ftealing any article, of which iron compofed a part, fo powerful was the temptation that affumed the form of that favourite metal, Such, however, was the prefent appearance of our affairs, that we defifted from carrying on our operations on fhore. We therefore began to cover the veflel with fpars, and elofe it in all round the fides, which we got done above one half from aft, forward; but the falls of fnow became fo frequent, and deep on the fhore, that we were prevented from compleating it, which was a very great inconvenience ; as the part that was covered always afforded a place to walk in, as well as prevented a great deal of cold from ftriking through the deck. It alfo formed a very fufficient fortification had that been ne- ceffary ;—as we were boarded and netted all round, ten feet above the gunwhale; fo that we fhould have been able to have defended ourfelves againft any attack that could have been made upon us i though the ice, which was forming all round us, gave the natives no inconfiderable advantage ; but, whatever might be 3 the INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. the inclinations of our favage neighbours, the operations of our great guns had frightened them into the moft amicable demeanour towards us. 'On the 31ft day of October the thermometer fell to 32, and the mornihgi and evenings were very {harp. Till, this period, we had caught a great plenty of falmon, but we now found they Were leaving the fmall rivers. At two hauls of the feine in a pond, between the neighbouring hills, we caught as many as we could fait for the winter ufe; and, for our daily confumption, two men were difpatched every morning, and in two hours they would bring down as many as they could carry. The method of taking them may appear rather ridiculous, but it is managed by following the drain of water from the pond, to where it emptied itfelf into the fea, and knocking the fifh on the head with clubs, as they were going up or coming down; and as the channel was not above a foot in depth, this bufinefs proved good fport to the failors, as well as a fourceof luxurious provifion for the table. The days of plenty were however drawing nigh to a conclufion. The ducks and geefe which had alfo afforded us a conftant fupply, j forming into flocks and paffing away to the Southward.—The natives had alfo brought us occafionally fome of the mountain fheep which were the only land animals we faw amongft them, and we had depended for fome affift- e at leaft from them on the article of provifion during the winter ;—inftead of which, by the 5 th of November, not one of the feathered tribe was to be feen, nor was it poffible to go into the woods, the ground being, at this time covered with at leaft five feet of loofe dry fnow.—The fifh had alfo left the creeks and coves, and ice began to form everywhere around us.—The ftupendous mountains which met our eye on every fide, were now white with fnow to the very edge of the water, while the natives .had no other means of fupport but the whale fifh and blubber which they had prepared for their winter provifions.—But fmce the 2d of November, the ice, from the veffel to the fhore, had been capable of bearing, and our people had commenced the amufement of fkaiting and other diverfions on it, which not only afforded them confiderable recreation, but contributed INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. xvii contributed greatly to the prefervation of their health, till the fnow became . as deep on the ice as it was on the ftiore. During the months of November and December we all enjoyed an excellent ftate ef health.—The natives alfo continued dbeir friendly behaviour to us., except in their incorrigible difpofition to ftealing, which they never failed to indulge whenany opportunity offered, and which the moft attentive vigilance on our part could not always prevent. The thermometer, during the month •of November, was from 26° to 280, and in .December it fell to 200, where it continued the greateft part of the month. We had now at noon but :a very faint and glimmering light, the meri- •dian fun not being higher than 6°, and that obfcured from us by hills 22* 'high to the Southward of us. While we were thus locked in, as it were, from the chearful light of day, and the vivifying warmth of folar rays,—rpp Other comforts prefented themfelves to compenfate, in any degree, for the 'fcene of defolation which encircled us. — While tremendous mountains forbade almoft a fight of the flcy, and eaft their ns^urnal ftiadows over us in the midft of day, the land was impenetrable from the depth of fnow, fb that we were excluded from all hopes of any recreation, fupport, or comfort, during the winter, but what could be found in the fhip and in ourfelves.—This, however, Was only the beginning.of our troubles. The new year fet in with added cold, and i-was fucceeded by fome very heavy falls of fnow, which lafted till the middle of the month,' Our decks were-now incapable of refifting the intenfe freezing of the night, and the lower parts of them were covered an inch, thick with an hoary froft, that had all the •appearance of fnow, notwithftanding three fires were kept conftantly burning twenty hours out of the twenty-four; fo that when they were firft lighted the decks were all afloat. For fome time we kept in the fires night and day, hut the fmoke which proceeded from a temporary ftove, made out of one of the d ' forges xvjil INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE, forges, was fo very troublefome, that the people, who were now falling ill} were fully convinced that this continual fmoke was the caufe of their ficknefs. After the heavy fall of fnow we had twelve down with the fcurvy, and towards the end of the month four died, and the number encreafed to twenty-three who were confined to their beds, amongft whom was the furgeonv who was extremely ill. The firft officer on finding himfelf flightly affected in thebreaft, a fymptom which generally foreboded a fatal determination,in a% very few days, got rid of it by continually chewing the young pine branches, and fwallowing the juice; but, from the unpleafant tafte of this medicine, few of the fick could be prevailed upon to perfift in taking it- At the latter end of February the diforder. had encreafed, and, no lefs than thirty of our people were fo ill that none of them had fufficient ftrength to get out of their hammocks:—four of them, died in the courfe of the month.— Indeed, at this time, our neceffaries were fo far exhaufted, that if the more violent fymptoms of the.diforder had abated, there was a want of proper food &c. to complete the cure. Thefe melancholy circumftances were rendered more afflicting by the hopelefs minds of the crew ; for fuch was the general difcouragement amongft them, that they confidered the. flighteft fymptom of the diforder to be a certain prelude to death- During the months of January and. February the thermometer continued for the greater part at 150, though it fometimes fell to 140. Notwithftand- ing this extreme cold, we were vifited as ufual by the natives who had no other cloathing but their frocks, made of the fkins of fea-otters and feals, though chiefly of the latter, with the fur on the outfide But whatever protection thefe dreffes gave to their bodies,, their legs remained uncovered and without any apparent inconvenience.—They appeared to be as much diftreffed for provifions as ourfelves, and as we had feveral cafks of the whale blubber which had been collected for oil, they ufed, whenever they came on board under a pretence that the weathe.r was too boifterous for them to engage in whale INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. xix whale hunting, to entreat a regale of this luxurious article; which was always granted to their great comfort and fatisfaction.— In their opinion it was owing to our not taking the fame delicious and wholefome nourifhment, that fuch a terrible and alarming ficknefs prevailed amongft us. We were at firft very much furprifed at their being informed of the death of our people, and the places where we had buried them.—They particularly pointed to the edge of the fhore between the cracks of the ice, where with confiderable labour we had contrived to dig a fhallow grave for our boatfwain, who from his piping had attracted their particular notice and refpect.—We indeed, at firft imagined that they contrived to watch thefe melancholy ceremonies in order to dig up the bodies for a banquet, as we had no doubt but that they were a canibal tribe. We however foon after difcovered that they obtained their intelligence from the conftant'watch they kept, to prevent any other bands of natives from coming to trade with us, without giving them a ihaxe of their profits, whatever they might be. As they paid us daily vifits, we at firft imagined that their place, of habitation was at no very great diftance, though we had never been able to difcover it; but we now learnt that they were a vagrant people, without any fixed place of abode, fleeping where they could, and when they had the inclination ; and' that they made no diftindtion between the night and the day, wandering about as much during the one as the other.—They never made any fires in the night for fear of •being furprifed by thofe tribes with whom they feemed to be in a continual ftate of hoftility, and who muft have come acrofs the ice to attack them ; for as they had ho knowledge of the ufe of fnow fhoes, the woods were wholly impaffable. The month of March brought no alleviation of our diftreffes :—It was as cold as the months which preceded it. In the early part of it there fell a great deal of fnow, which encreafed the number of "the fick, and the violence of the C z diforder xx INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE, diforder in thofe who Were already airlifted by it.—In the courfe of this month we had the melancholy office of performing the la ft imperfeft obfequies to the remains of the furgeon and the pilot. Thefe were heavy misfortunes, and the lofs of the former, at a moment when medical knowledge was fo neceffary, muft be confidered by all who read this page, as a confummate affliction. The firft officer finding a return of his complaint, applied, to the fame means of relief which had before been fo fuccefsful,-—exercife and the juice of the pine tree—He made a decoction of the latter which was extremely naufeous, and very difficult, though very much diluted, to keep on the ftomach :—it operated repeatedly as an emetic, before it became a progreffive remedy:—- and perhaps this very effect, by cleanfing the ftomach, aided the future falutary operations of this anti-fcorbutic medicine. The fecond officer and one or two of the feamen perfifting in the fame regimen, found fimilar benefit, and were recovered from a very reduced ftate ; but it is one of the unfortunate fymptoms of this melancholy diforder, to be averfe to motion, and to find pain bordering on anguifh, in attempting to ufe that exercife which is the predominant remedy. Having loft our furgeon, we were now deprived of all medical aid.-—Every advantage the fick could receive from the moft tender and vigilant attention, they received from myfelf, the firft officer and a feaman, who were yet-is ;a ftate to do them that fervice. But ftill we continued to fee and lament a gradual diminution of our crew from this terrible diforder. Too often did I find ' myfelf called to affift in performing the dreadful office, of dragging th# dead bodies acrofs the ice, to a fhallow fepulchre which our own hands had hewn out for them on the fhore. The fledge on which we fetched the wood was their hearfe, and the chafms in the ice their grave : But thefe irn- perfea rites .were attended with that fincerity of grief which does not always follow the gorgeous array of funeral pride to fepulchral domes. Indeed, the only happinefs; or, to exprefs myfelf with more accuracy, the only alleviation of our wretchednefs was when we could abfent ourfelves- from the veffel, and get - 3 away I N T R O .D U e •? O R Y V O Y A G E. xxf away frorn ^tiring the groans of our afflifted people, in order to find relief in a folitary review of our forbid, fituation. All our cordial provifions had fePI.been exhaufted ;-— we had nothing to ftrengthen and fupport the fick but bifcuit, rice*, and. affpall quantity of flour, but no kind of fugar or wine to give with them. Of fait beef and pork there was no deficiency ; but, even if it had been a proper food, the averfion of the people to the very fight of it, would have prevented its falutary effe£i:s. Fifh or fowl was not an offering of the winter here. A crow or a fea-gull were rare delicacies, and an eagle, one or two of which we killed, when they feemed to be hovering about, as if they would feed upon us, inftead of furnifhing us with food, was a feaft indeed.—Our two goats, a male and female of the fame age, and who had been our companions throughout the voyage, were at length reluctantly killed, and ferved tjj#fick, with broth, &c. made of their flefh, for fourteen days. Though-we were at the latter end of March, there was, as yet, no change in the weather ;—the cold ftill continued its inhofpitable feverity :—we now, however, began -to derive fome hopes from feeing the fun, which had been fo long obfcured from us, juft peep at noon over the fummits of the mountains. The thermometer had, during this month, been for the moft part at 150 and 16°, though it had fometimes rifen to 170. The early part of the month of April was very frofty, with violent windsi- Towards the middle of it, we had fome very heavy Southerly gales, which-, produce the fummer in thefe high latitudes, as the Northerly ones prevail throughout the winter. The change of wind produced, as may be fuppofed, a fenfible alteration in the air ; bUc it brought heavy fhowers of fnow, and did not 'become, ftationary ; fo that wkh the return of the North wind, it became as cold as ever. In fhort, during the latter part of this month there was a continual, combat of thefe oppofing winds, which were the more difagreeable, as it oc- eafioned thick and hazy weather. While the South wind prevailed, the fick people grew worfe, and in the courfe of this month, four. Europeans and three ^Lafcars- -xxii INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. ^Lafcars died. The fecond officer and the feaman who entered upon the pifle juice regimen, were now fo far recovered as to get upon deck to receive the •ftiort but welcome vifit of the fun. This circumftance induced many of the fick men to apply to the decoftion, and fome of them were perfuaded to continue it; but, in general, it was neglected, with a determination to die at their •eafe, (according to their manner of expreffion) rather than be tormented by fuch a naufeous and torturing remedy. Towards the end of the month, in the mid-day fun, the thermometer raifcd . to 33°, but at night it fell below the freezing point to 270. During the laft three days in this month, the natives brought us fome herring and fea-fbwl. The fifh, I myfelf diftributed to the fick, and no words can exprefs the eager joy which animated their haggard countenances on receiving fuch a comfortable and refrefhing meal:—and every encouragement was, of courfe, given to the natives to procure a conftant fupply of this ftrengthening food. Thefe people now began to confole- us with au affurance that the cold would foon be gone. They had, indeed, always made us underftand, that the fummer would commence about the middle of May, by counting the number of moons. The fun now began to make a large circle over the hills, and at mid-day it was exceedingly reviving. The fupplies of fifh were alfo frequent, and we began to feel hopes, that the remaining part of us would get out of this defblate abode, and return again to our country. Thefe cir- cumftances gave fuch a turn to the fpirits of the people, that many of them confented to be brought upon deck to feel the rays of the fun, who fainted when they approached the air. It is very Angular that many of them who .preferred aftonifhing fpirits, and would fay or do any thing, who appeared in fhort, as if they were free from all diforder, while they were in bed, would from the moft trifling motion, or only touching the fide oftheir hammocks, be thrown into fuch agonizing pains, and fucceffive faintings, that every moment INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE, Xxiii might be fuppofed to be their laft. In this ftate they would remain for near half an hour, before they recovered.. By the 6th of May, there was an aftonifhing change in. every thing around us ; the feamen who had not been very much reduced, recovered miraculoufly, from jlrinking. the decoction. We had now as much fifh as we could eat, with a great variety of fea-fowl, with which the natives daily provided us^— We had alfo feen feveral flights of geefe and ducks pafs over us, but none had as yet come within our reach.. On the 17th, a company of the. natives, with the King, of the Sound, named Shenoway, came on board with great form, to congratulate us on the return of fummer.—They alfo informed us that they had feen two veffels at fea, an article of intelligence which we fcarce knew how to believe,, though it was confirmed by the fimilar and fubfequent information of others of the natives ; but, on the 1 oth, this doubtful account was verified by the arrival of two canoes conducting a boat, in which was Captain Dixon of the Queen Charlotte from London, which, with her confott the King George, Captain Portlock, he had left at Montagu.Ifle,, to come in queft of us, on the information of the Indians.. If all the circumftances are confidered,—this muft be mentioned as a moft extraordinary meeting; and when the horrid fituation of the Nootka and her crew is called, into reflection, their ficknefs and their forrow,—their defolate fituation fo long continued,—and the chilling apprehenfions' that, from.the ftate of the crew and, the ftate of the fhip, even when the weather relaxed, and the feafon- became favourable, they might not poffefs the means of quitting" it;—when all thefe items of misfortune are brought to one aggregate of evil; it is not a matter of furprife that Captain Dixon fhould be welcomed as a guardian angel with tears of joy. Nor fhall I deny that we received confiderable affiftance and fervice from Captain. Portlock, whofe embaffador he was.—And here I {hould J 3ft} INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. ftiould have concluded this part of my fubjedt; but as the latter gentleman in the account of his voyage, has thought proper to reprefent himfelf as pof- feffing the virtues of a Samaritan, and that he exercifed them aU upon, me, I have thought proper to ftate the hiftory of his.' conduct with all the ne- .ceffary vouchers, that the public may be in poffeffion of the truth, dad- <be enabled to judge of the extent of the obligations I owe to the jufticfc, therhfce- rality, and the humanity of Captain Portlock*. By the 12th of May, the meridian fun became very powerful, and the ■Southerly winds being fet in, the air was foft and pleafant. The thermometer during the day and in the fhade flood at 400, though at night it reH to ■fee * In May, 1787, Captain A. Portlock ; •the Queen Charlotte.Captain Dixon, who Cove, with the long-boat of the King Geo was at anchor near them, which they unde ^ Dixon was conduced by the natives, and'ai INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. xxr the freezing point, and fpread a thin ice over what had thawed in the day. The main body of ice, however, by which we were furrounded, began to loofen from the fhore, where it was broken by the tide, which rifes and falls eighteen feet, while the drain of the thaw in the country drove the pieces of ice out to fea. The veffel now fwung to her anchors, the ice having thawed from around her:—Our fick were recovering very faft, though two of them baffled the return of the fun, and, in fpite of our utmoft attentions, added to the number of thofe whom fate had ordained to take their laft fleep on this horrid fhore.—The face of the country, however, was ftill covered with fnow, and no vegetable produ&ion was yet attainable but the ,£irie,Ttops ; that the fternefs of winter had deigned to fpare us, and which proved an efficacious remedy to thofe who perfifted in the ufe of them. D On fcefore us. As foon as we had refrelhed ourfelves, I explained to Captain Portlock the nature of my errand,—which he heard, and faid he would confult Captain Dixon on the fubjeft. I then proceeded, to give him, without referve, fuch nth, and one Otter- . brandy, n of gin, two calks of flour, at 20 gallons each, 10 gallons "of melafles, and fix loaves of Englifh fug; During thofe a&s of mutual civility, I really thought myfelf much indebted to Captain Portlock; and i receiving any of thefe, not being in want of them. In the-evening of this day I bid him adieu; and arrived •board the Nootka with the two fcamen. Jf xxvi INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. On the 17th of May, a general diffolution took place throughout the Cove, and when we once again found ourfelves in clear water, the hopes of leaving this fcene of fo much dlftrefs and horror, cheered our languid minds with inexpreffible comfort. The number of natives which we faw, did not exceed five or fix hundred.—They are a ftrong, raw-boned race of people, and in fize rather exceeding the common ftature of Europeans. They have no town, village, or fixed place of abode, but are continually wandering up and down the Sound, as fancy leads,or neceffity impels them, eonfidering the whole of that territory as fubject to them, and fuffering no other tribe to enter whom they have ftrength fufficient to keep out, without paying them a tribute for that privilege. When, however, A few days afterw rds, I was furprifed to fee Captain Portlock's it gentleman. I HOPE by the time-y on the recovering hand, and your veffel in a ftate of ( quitting the coaft, by a fhort run you may be among! in good health. I think it was on the fecond day after you left us tl Ing the Eaft end ofthefaid ifland, ftretched over fo: to remain until the return of my long-boat from Co patched her the day after you left us,, and expect her Captain Dixon took his leave of me off the Cape, l eto had for fee you plac el diT- ther fince his departure hath been favourable, I remember before you left us to have heard you fay, th and now, my good friend, I think, in your prefent fituatki object. . I muft beg. that you would fpare me a part of it. particularly the fmall green and yellow fort, and of them a vil, you may remember that I mentioned my want of peppei I hope to fee you as you pafs through the Sound : and rer Capt. John Meares, Snow Nootka, Sutherland Cove, Prince William's Sound. ind to the Southward towards King George's e will make a good hand of it. TlTctT dance oft "t of tides I wifh you to fpa re a as poffible iron un wro ugh compafs. ith efteem, Your' fin N a Tja P INTRODUCTORY V.OYAGE. „Xvu however, they are intruded upon by a more powerful nation, which fometimes happens, they retreat to certain rocks which are inacceffible but by a ladder that is drawn up after them, and even their canoes, which are of a very light conftrudtion, are hauled up with them. They have a King whofe name was Sheenoway; he was a very old man and almoft blind.—When he firft vifited us in the preceding autumn, he brought with him three women, whom he called his wives, and wire accordingly treated with a fuitable attention, being prefented with fuch articles as appeared to be moft agreeable to them-; but they would not fuffer the moft diftant familiarity from any of us. Thefe and three or four others were the only women we faw amongft them.—We wifhed very much to get one of their boys to live D 2 with I wrote him by retain of the boats, (No. III.) I hefitated nota moment in complying with the purport.of his letter; and as I could not get at the articles of trade, they being flowed in the Md, I Tent what I had at hand, viz. the com- pafs, fome pepper, a.few bags of rice, 400 or 5001b. each, and feveral other articles which I thought-he wanted, though he did not pay by any means an adequate attention to my wants by his boats. The Nootka in fourteen, or fifteen days was ready for fea : we therefore failed out of the Cove, where we had-been fin long imprifoned, and anchored the next evening in Port Etches, where the King George was alfo at anchor. I again met Captain Portlock with every civility. trsW A few days after my arrival, as we were converfing in a friendly manner on board his own fhip, I was much furprifed at his jutting into my hand the following letter. King George, Port Etches, y& 9th, 17s7. AT the time I fpared you Thomas Dixon and George Willis, to affift in navigating the Nootka to China, I had thoughts of quitting this Sound, and proceeding to other parts of the coafts; therefore your ftay in the Sound, and carrying on a trade with the natives, could not, in any material degree, affect me. . I therefore " propofedto you no conditions refpeaing trade, in confideration of that affiftance, which, if I had done, lam.pretty certain yon would very readily have complied with. Since'that period I have had good reafon for adopting another plan, a part of which is to remain in the Sound, and purchafe every fkin, of every kind,, that came in my way; and as your remaining in the Sound and trading muft, of courfe, flop a confiderable part of the trade that I might get, I find myfelf in duty bound, on account of my employers interefts, to propofe the following conditions,—which, if you 'would luijh to. ' *eep the affiftance I have already lent, you will find it neceffary to comfy -with. The Conditions are thefe,—That you bind r ftay ii is fea: On thefe, andonly.fhefe Conditions, you keep -what affiftance I ia-ve already lent, and receive ivbafotber affiance I ha ;n my power to afford you: at the fame time I muft affure you, that was I in your fituation I mould not hefitate a mome tin complying with the terms propofed. You have made a good puichafe,—I have min: to make. You have more tra •kan you can.poffibly difpofe of,—Iliave mine to make. .NATH1- PORTLOCK, Jt# „T1ii INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE, with us, in order to obtain fome knowledge of thejr language and manners ; this propofition, however, they conftantly refufed ; but on condition that we mould leave one of our people with them. Indeed the King himfelf always ht&tSteS to come on board, unlefc one of our feamen remained'ih the canoe during his vHTf. Sometime in October, 1786, his Majefty brought us a young woman and offered her*for fale; and fhe was accordingly bought for an axe and a fmall quantity of glafs beads. We at firft thought that {he was one of his owut women, but fhe foon made us underftand that fhe was a captive, and had been taken with a party of her tribe, who had been ' killed' and eaten, which was the general lot of all prifoners taken in war. She alone had been preferred to wait upon the Royal ladies, who were now tired, or perhaps jealous of her fervices. A requifition fo illiberal a t naturally felt, at the fhamei Impelled by cruel neceffity, i forth a aftonifhm -opofed to difficu dfupprefsthe en board for the Japan market, and other articles, fuch as fugar, chocolate, &c. that he would let me have as much of thofe articles as I wanted, at the Canton price, as he did not mean to go to Japan:—all this he allured me that he would . fent him. Before I finifhed my vifit, he fixed the next day to fend the man, perhaps the boy, and certainly the porter, which to us would have been an invaluable acquifition, on account of our fcorbutic habits of body, and having nothing but felted beef to exift on down to the iflands, the very idea of which we naufeated. The next day his carpenter came on board, who began to caulk the deck, and'examine the pumps. Captain Portlock employed alfo fome of his people to brew beer and cut wood for us. Captain Portlock had done all this with fo many profcflions, that it was all for the good of his owners, and appeared, fo friendly to me, that I really was deceived by him. His carpenter when caulking part of our deck had ufed about fifty pounds of oakum of his own, we having none of that article, or men to pick it;—to replace this, I fent qn board feveral lengths of an old cable, about 11 fathoms, when oakum: furprifed at this declaration, I fent my firft officer on board, to explain to Captain Portlock that I really had no more junk or old cable in the (hip, and that if he perfifted in his demand, I muft ruin a cable to comply with it, and that I thought what he had already received was a full equivalent. Soon after I received from Captain Portlock the following: letter. * the othei I SHOULD be glad if you wou you have fufficient of either fort, eafily to be got at. One of the twelve bars that I h ufed in lengthening your_ pump-fpears, and fitting the boxes; therefore I may fay tb r received, inftead of INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. xxi* fervices. She remained, with us near four months, and appeared to be very contented with her condition. She had informed us that {he belonged to a tribe "who lived to the Southward, and it was our intention to have coafted it along the enfuing fummer, in queft of furs, and reftored her to her own people, had not the diftreffes which have been already related prevented us from purfuing any defign of that nature. With what truth we know not, but fhe always reprefented the natives of the Sound, as the moft fayage of any inhabitants of the Coaft, and continually repeated, that it was the fear of our great guns alone, which prevented them from killing and.devouring us. During the intenfe froft in January and February, we were vifited by fome intermediate tribes, who lived in the neighbourhood of her people, by whom fhe twenty, is only eleven. In confequence of what palled1 yefterday between us, reflecting the junk, I fent my boatfwain on board, and expected he would have received aboutfifteen fathoms; he was offered five or fix, which quantity he did not bring on board, as I had told him what I thought he would receive. You muft confider the wade there is in picking oakum ; befides the employment of my people, whofe labour fhould, had it not been on your account, turned to the advantage of my own fhip, in a trading expedition up the Sound ; but, as it is, all hands muft turn too for fome days, and pick odeum, reddy for my carpenter to begin caulking the fhip immediately on finifhing with you; therefore the lofs of time I have fuftained is of more confequence to my owners than I fhould fuppofe even fifty fathoms of junk would be toyour's. Difpatch thjsboat as guide as you can, and-tie third man is getting himfelf ready for you. 1 hope you •are well tffistoorning, &c. N. PORTLOCK. I then fent the cable, which contained twenty times the quantity I had received from him. Captain Portlock alfo .defired me to lend him fix ftands of arms, fome brafs mufketoons, and the anvil, until we met in China, which I immediately fent on board. However, day after day he deferred fending the man, boy, or porter, or, indeed, fulfilling the remainder of his agreement;—and'tnus matters refted till we were ready for fea:—I then'requefied Mr. Hollings to go on board, and endeavour to make Captain Portlock comply with his agreement, and fave his honour; when, to my utter aftomfhmenr, Mr. Hollings returned with the following anfwer:—" that he would fpare me 20 dozen of porter, and 10 gallons of » gin, for a new European 13 inch cable; (which coft in Bengal near 200/.) that he could not fpare the man, but " would give me an old 9 inchhawfer, of 80 fathoms." I naturally rejected this offer with indignation, the articles being by no means of equal value,, and as he refufed to fulfil his part of the agreement between us. I told him, however, in the pretence of Mr. Hollings, that if he was in diftrefs for a cable, I would fpare him one, at the rate that the owners 1 bought it, but on no other terms, as I had no order* to eat or drink away the property of the fhip. -^ xxx INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE, {he fent invitations to them to come to us ; to which we added prefents of beads as an encouragement to receive a vifit from them ; and within a few days of the time, when fhe mentioned her expeftation of their arrival, fome of them came in three fiugle canoes, and brought a fmall quantity of fkins. She earneftly requefted permiffion to depart with them, but as we expected to derive fome advantage from her information in the fummer, her defire was not granted. While, however, our people were gone down to breakfaft, fhe contrived to get to the canoes, and we faw her no more. At the time the girl left us, the fcurvy was not arrived to the cruel height which it afterwards attained.— Neverthelefs fhe made us fenfible that the fame diforder prevailed in her nation, and -that whenever the fymptoms appeared, they removed to the Southward where the climate was more genial, and where plenty of fifh was to be obtained, which never failed to prove the means of their recovery. '. ml-'" ' The I then obferved to him, that if he had no regard to his honour, yet us fuch articles as would tend to keep this deftructive' diforder under, I reprefented, that it was againft his own and owners intereft to keep a he had had an offer of the higheft price ever given at Canton for article: cable, which I rejefted; and in confequence of my refufel to comply our fhip was not in a ftate of fefety; her feams being open every he had done, (viz. J caulking two feams fore and aft, Captain Portloci Portlock received the money. On the iSth of June, I received another letter as follows. ive at the Sandwich Iflands.. d for the China market, when recollect, that, i Sandwich Ifland Ifthisisreall. immediately on i : HAVE had very recent, good reafon to •orts on the coaft of America, to carry on : Dute—In confequence of your letter I have gram INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. xxxi The natives of the Sound, of either fex, keep their hair rather fhort;—but of the fame length before as behind: indeed their faces are generally fo 'covered with it, that they are obliged to be continually feparating it, in order to fee before them.—The men have univerfally a flit in their under lip, between the projecting part of the lip and the chin, which is cut parallel with their mouths, and has the appearance of another mouth. The boys have two, three, or four holes, where the flit is in the men, which is perhaps the diftinc- tive mark of manhood. The women have the fame apertures as the boys, with pieces of fhell fixed in them refembling teeth. Both fexes have the feptum of the nofe perforated, in which they generally wear a large quill or a piece of the bark of a tree. Their beards which, however, are common but in perfons advanced in years, are on the upper lip, and two of the beft men from the King George, but you may be well affured it was not to enable you to trade along the ■ coaft. Mr. Creffelman has the paper with him^ which you cannot refufo to fign, provided you mean to proceed as you declared Your obedient, humble Servant, NATH1- PORTLOCK. You will pleafe to be fpeedy in your determination, that I may, in cafe you do not chufe m comply, in giving me the fecurity I have afked, return you the articles I have received, and take my people on board again. I heed not comment on this tranfaftion. I was obliged to fubmit; and I accordingly figned the Bond, of which There give an exact copy:— C O Pr 0 F THE BOND. Ship King. George, Port Etches, June ilth, 1787. Be it known unto all Men, That the under-written mutual Agreement and Obligation was this day entered into and agreed upon between A. Portlock, commander of the King George, from England, on the one part, and John Meares, commander of the fnow Nootka, from Bengal, on the other part, under the pains and forfeitures as under-mentioned:— Whereas the above-mentioned John Meares, in wintering on the New Coaft of America, unfortunately loft tie greater! part of his fhip's company, and was reduced to the greateft diftrefe, not" being able to navigate his veffel to China. In confequence of the diftreffed fituation, as reprefented by the faid John Meares to the faid A. Portlock. * INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. and about the extremity of the chin, which in the winter is generally frofted with icicles.—The younger part-of them, as we imagine, pull'it out as it appears.—They have high cheek bones, and round flat faces, with Tmall black eyes and jetty hair.—Their afped is wild and favage, and their ears are full of holes, from which hang pendants of bone or fhell. They ufe a red kind of paint, with which they befmear their necks and faces ; but after the death of friends or relations, it is changed into black. Their hair is almoft covered with the down of birds. Their cloathing confifts of a fingle frock, made of the fea-otter {kin, which hangs down to their knees and leaves their legs bare. The drefs they ufe in their canoes, is made of the guts of the whale, which covers their heads, and the lower part being tied round the hole in which thev fit, prevents the water from getting into the canoe, and at the- fame time Jseeps them warm and dry. This indeed may be confidered as their principal , drefs, as they pafs the far greater part of their time in the canoes. That the faid John Meares fhall, on his leaving Prince Wi proceed to Canton, and not on any account whatfoever (excef the produce of the faid coafts, on pain of forfeiting the fum of tain, to the faid A. Portlock, his heirs, executors, and afligr King George. whereof we have hereunto fubfcribed our hands the d; As I had good reafon to apprehend further demands from the illibera immediately to put to fea; but, before I could effect my purpofe, the ft Captain Portlock, fhould be returned to the King George. On being inf the bond, as well as the articles with which I may be faid to have very d< i, That d that Captain Po rt, I fhould infill. ;ed to affift the faid John >f Captain Portlock nl d t'ie 1»P» I was determined to repel force by force—On this ,the officer departed; and in about half an hour When the veffel was under fail, Captain Portlock thought proper to fend me a Sandwich Ifland^pYnd fent; which I returned. * INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. ^^ There are to be found here all the different kind* of firs which grow on the other fide of America.—There is. alfo fnake roofi and ginfeng, fome of which the natives have always with them as a medicine, though we neve* Could procure any quantity of it. The woods are thick and fpread over about twa-thirds of the afcerit of the mountains,, which terminate in huge maffes of naked rock. The black fine, which grows in great plenty, is capable of making excellent fpars. We faw alfo a few black currant bufhes when we entered the Sound in September, but no other kind of fruit or any fpecies of vegetable. At that time, indeed, the high grounds were covered with fnow, and the lowlands were $n entire fwamp from the ftreams of melted fnow which flowed from above. E The Such was the conduct of Captain 'Portlock. "'To obferve upon it would unnecefl^rily lengthen an article, already too long. Every one is capable of determining upon the tendernefs or the cruelty of this man's demeanour to me. Whether it demands deteftation or praife, is left to the judgment of thofe who read the pages which contain this faithfid and unexaggerated account of jt. fhe Letters of Captain Portlock to me are copied from «fo ongsak ht my poffejfton; and, hataittg info-ted them, it may be exfeaed that IJbould publijb thofe <wbicb I tome to biati.—-tbej are tbeuftte aided. ( No. I.) % Capt. N. Portlock, Commanding tie King George. I MAKE no doubt, but that you will "be farprifed on fhe perufel of a letter from a bro» ther officer in fhirtEifant part of the globe; and as Captain Dixon has been fo good as to offer a conveyance of this ta you, I could not omit the favourable moment that providentially offers itfetf. Some few days ago, the natives informed me of the arrival of two ftips in this Sound, which, this evening, we found to be fatt, by the arrival of Captain Dixon on board the Nootka. I had wrote a note a few days ago, which I introfted to one of the nalivtt, to ddiver on board one of the flnps, whicft lie promifed to do for a certain reward. Before I proceed further, Sir, itwiU be neceffary to give you fome account of ourfelves: Captain. Dixon will give yo» 9 proper account of the fize of the (hip, and fo forth. I failed from Bengal, in company with the Sea Otter, of 150 tons, my confort, commanded alfo by a lieutenant of the navy, whofe name is Tipping, in the month of March 1786; the Government of Bengal being, chiefly concerned in 5xxjv INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. The only animals we faw were bears, foxes, martins, mountaitt-flieep, and the ermine.—Of the latter we only killed two pair, which were of a different fpecies. Of geefe there were a great quantity in the feafon, with various other fowls of the aquatic fpecies ; but except the crow and the eagle we faw no birds that were the natives of the woods. The article which the natives efteem moft is iron, and they would prefer fuch pieces, as approached, in any degree, to the form of a fpear.—Green, glafs beads are alfo much fought after, and at times thofe which were red and blue.—They were very fond of our woollen jackets, or any of the old cloaths belonging to the feamen. They the expedition. The Sea Otter returned to China in September, with the cargo of furs procured on the coaft: I determined to winter; and accordingly chofe the harbour where Captain Dixon found us. My complement of men and officers were, four mates, gunner, purfer, furgeon, boatfwain, carpenter, forty men arict boys, with a crew ftrong, able, and healthy. I thought myfelf fafe. and fecure; but the calamities which we have fuf- fered during a long, fevere winter, deftitute of all frefh provifions, will, I am fure, fill you with tender concern, fuch a height did it arrive, that it was often the cafe, that myfelf and officers had alone to bury the dead, which -•ffefledwith infinite difficulty, from the rigid and impenetrable frofts. We arrived here the 25th of September, and were completely froze in by the ill of November. About Chrifb the fcurvy made its appearance amongft us, and raged with fiich fury, that it fwept off the third and 4th officers i geon, boatfwain, carpenter, cooper, and the greateft part of the crew. In fhort, no one on board was exempt fron either more or lefs; and it is but three weeks ago, that what few were left have been able to creep about. Such been our diftreffed fituation: -jr-at prefent we have, independant of the officers, but five men before the mail capable doing duty, and four fick, which compofe the whole of our remaining numbers. I have given you, Sir, but a fhort recital of our misfortunes; and fhall hope, if it is in your power that vou ' afford us fome relief. I fhould myfelf have accompanied Captain Dixon, had I a boat afloat that could fwim; the only one I have is. a lo boat, which we are now endeavouring to repair, and fhe is on fhore. As I have particularly mentioned to Captain Dixon wherein you may be able to affift m that any favour will indeed be gratefully received. I fhall beg leave to mention, that could you poffibly fpare the men, I mould agree to any terms in th faithfully return them on the (hip's arrival at Canton. I beg your acceptance of a few bags of rice, being indeed the only thing I have to prefent you with. To ion I can only fay, t humble Servant, ]• M E j RES. No. INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. x>xr They live entirely upon fifh, but of all others, they prefer the whale; and as the oil is with them the moft delicate part of the fifh, they naturally eftecm thofe moft which pofiefs an oily Equality.—They feldom drefs their fifh, but when they do, the fire is kindled by fri&ion with fome of the drieft pine wood, and they have a kind of baskets made of a fubftance which holds water, into which a quantity of heated ftones is put to make it boil; but it is not often that their food undergoes this unneceffary and troublefome operation. In the coldeft period of the winter we never faw them employ their kitchen, which might, perhaps, arife from local circumftances, that encreafed the difficulty attending their culinary exertions. They are certainly a very favage race of people, and poffefs an uncommon degree of infenfibility to corporal pain.—Of this we had a very lingular proof on the following occafion':—In the courfe of the winter, among other rubbifh, feveral broken glafs bottles had been thrown out of the fhip, and one of Ez the ( N°- II. ) ■xd, May i6t I N my letter of the nth of this month, I reprefented to you the very"di(lrcflcd anil deplorable-ftate of my fliip, which you are perfectly fenfible is really the cafe, and have moft kindly offered me fuch I muft again beg leave to reprefent to you, that fuch is my fituation, that, without the affiftance of men, it will be nearly an impoflible thing for me even to quit this Sound, much lefs to navigate the fhip to China; fuch is the debility If therefore, Gentlemen, you will take this into confideration, and permit me to have a feamen or two from each of . your {hips, it may be the means of faving the lives of the wretched remains of my crew, by enabling me to conduct, with fuch affiftance, the Nootka to Canton, where on your arrival, fhould Providence fo. order it as to fend us there alfo, I will faithfully deliver them backto their refpeftive (hips; and do engage, on the part of the Proprietors, to (land to any I do alfo engage, lhould not your (hips arrive at Canton, to fend thofe men to England, fhould they defire to go. Your moft obedient, J. MEARES. xxxvi INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. the natives who was fearching among them to fee what he could find, cut his foot in a very fevere manner: on. feeing it bleed, we pointed out what. had caufied the wound, and applied a dreffing to it, which we made him underftand was the remedy we ourfelves employed on fimilar ooWfions: but he and his companions inftantly turned the whole i&ti?. jrifjUeille; and, at the fame time, tafeaag- fome of the glafs, they fcarified their legs and araas in ja -moft extraordinary manner, informing us that nothing of that kind could ever hurt them> Such is the character and manners of the people in W-hofe territory we paffed fuch a deplorable feafon; it was therefore with infinite joy we took our ieaveof the Cove on the 21ft of June, and the following evening we got out to fea. Our crew now confifted only of twenty-four people, including myfelf and ofiKcer-s^Wrth the two failors we got from the King George, having, -alas ! buried twenty-three men in this inheritable Sound. Thofe whickresmained^ however, Were all in great ( N°. III. > imanding tie King Gec I WAS this morning favoured, andaj the receipt of your friendly letter. The ice is completely diflblved, and the weather has been extremely fine, w] preparations for fea; to bring which to a final conclufion you may juftly fuppofe I arrived fafe at my fhip the morning after I left you; and, as I had brought ■my abfence nothing could be done to put her in forwardnefs. lief employment fince has been to entirely clear our main and after holds, and completely Ifi ibly fin-prized by the arrival of your boats, i enabled us to put forward < igth of my crew with me, ft iving the coaft; and in confequence of which all the beads and ui e been (lowed ir le ground tier. tr Sir, fo far are we from being ready,, that our utmoft efforts have been able only to aecomplifh this; ; lo fuppofe it will be ten days at leaft before we (hall be ready to put to fea ; for we have now the fore-hold to cleai afks, more ballaft to take in, and we have already received between twenty and thirty tons ; our calks an without having a cooper, and we have to complete our water, cut a large quantity of wood, and repair the ft ire much eaten by rats; and finally to complete the rigging for fea; to perform this, we have, I think, your' tnd eight capable of doing duty; nor am I myfelf, or any of my officers idle, being employed in endeavourm; hether iroffr adyinte 'e that the returning fpringhath INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. n3 - great fpirits, though fome of them had not yet fufficiantly recovered to go aloft. As foon as we got clear of the land, the wind hung much to the Southward, and brought a thick fog along with it. As this weather was very unfavourable to* people in our ftate, it was thoughtadviifebje-fce keep near the coaft. We had now been at fea ten days, and had got no further to the Southward than 57"\ Our people alfo from being Wet on deck, began to complain of pains- in their legs which fwelled fo much, th-a* feveral of them were obliged to keep their beds.—It was determined, therefore, to ftand in for land which was not above forty leagues diftant. We accordingly made a very high peak of a lingular form, as the-inhabitants- in-its neighbourhood were of Angular manners- and appearance. When we got pretty weMin with the -fhore, a -confiderable number of canoes' eame off to us, which were of a very differed §@nfhtt*5bi©n &s®m thofe in the Sound. I obferve v fhatjtoufay relative* S-the arr ■itgenfcntswKch-) Ouaave made for the pi rpofe-of trade; n it I wifh you> ery fuccefs and I beg leave toe prefsmy hopes that I fhall u at the clofe of t he feafon at Cant You may e aflured that it gave mefingi lar pleafure when I peruf ed that part of yo you requeft that will fupply you with the articles 1 purpofely to do, to of trade fupply e\ ^Tan^yo'iiLy' hi will moft affuredly co nd that is in my ro~grahntmC mentljoinyou,- The beads and iron, as I have nentione , being ftowed ir thegrc und tier, cannot arrive with you,- hen you wi 1 lend me the neeeflar y affiftanc e to come at them ; Ihav 3 fcarcely fufficier tat hand to fern the purpofes of keeping the (hip fupplied with the neceffary refrefhments v The other articles-1 haVe put in the boats, they being at As I hope fhortly to fee you, I will only beg leave to adc (N°.IV..) I H AVE juft received your letter with the bond or paper, fr< I return you the paper, which is figned, but beg leave to remind you that I think you have throughout the whole of this bufinefs, in retracting-from your word, relative to the three men whi one of my beft men is unable to do his duty; nor do I fuppofe he will be able during the voya fenfible, renders it more neceflary for you to act with that humanity becoming a.Britifh.fubjea. . UNTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. Sound. They were made from a folid tree, and many of them appeared to be from fifty to feventy feet in length, but very narrow, being no broader than the tree itfelf.—But of all the beings we ever faw in human fhape, the women were the moft ftrange and hideous.—They have all a cut in their under-lip, fimilar to the men of Prince William's Sound, but much larger, it being a full inch further in the cheek on either fide.—In this aperture they have a piece of wood of at leaft feven inches in circumference, of an oval ftiape, of about half an inch thickj . which has a groove round the edges, that keeps it fteady in the orifice. This unaccountable contrivance diftends the lips from the teeth, and gives the countenance the moft difgufting appearance which we believe the human face to be capable of receiving.—Thefe people appeared not unacquainted with the natives of the Sound, when we defcribed them as having double mouths: in« deed their languages feemed to have affinity to each other, but thefe people appeared to form a much more numerous tribe.—They had never been before feen by any navigator, and had not a favourable wind fprung up in the night,' we intended to have paffed a few days among them.—The latitude of this part jpf the coaft is in $6° 28' North, and the longitude 223 o' 25" Eaft of Greenwich. A North- To Henry Cox, Efq. Canttn. dollars, for work done on ' eafe to pay Mr. Robert Hoi le Nootka; which place to the at Mr. Criftleman has delivered to me fome from you: As I am going there in perfon I truft to be able to procure i neverthelefs I am much obliged to you, but beg leav Your moft obedient, humble Servant Sounii> ']. MEARESj ( N°. V. ) f the Sandwich Iflands, as a pipfent accepting any mark of your attention. Your obedient Servant, J. MEARES. Before I conclude this note I fhall remark on the declaration of Captain Dixon, in the account of his voyage, «that the d.forder which fo feverely afflicted my crew, arofe from their uncontrolled application to fpirituous liquor* ' In the firft place, the affertion is not founded in faft; and, fecondly, Captain Dixon's crew and hjaftlf bein£ Vlfited by a fijDJJw -aSiChon, I have an equal right to retaliate the fame accufatio upon him. " * INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. . xxxix A Northerly wind now fprung up, and brought clear weather-along with it, which continued till we made the ifland of Owhyhee. Our paflage from the continent was fortunately very' fhort, but if we had not been blefTed with a continuance of fine and favourable weather, the ftate of the fhip was fuch as to make it a matter of doubt whether we fhould have reached the Sandwich Iflands. Still, however, the horrid diforder beneath which the crew had fo long laboured, continued to accompany us, and one man died before we gained the falubrious clime, whofe zephyrs may be faid to have borne health on their wings; for in ten days after we arrived at the iflands, every complaint had difappeared from among us. We remained here a month, during which time the iflanders appeared to have no other pleafure but what arofe from {hewing kindnefs and exercifing hofpitality to us.—They received us with joy—and they faw us depart with tears. Among the numbers who prefled forward, with inexpreffible eagernefs, to accompany us to Britannee,—Tianna, a chief of Atooi, and the brother of the fovereign of that ifland was alone received to embark with us, amid the envy of all his countrymen. Of this amiable man, I fhall add nothing in this place, as he will he rather a confpicuous, and I am difpofed to believe, an in- terefting character in the fiicceeding pages of this volume. On the ad of September, we left the Sandwich Iflands, leaving behind us, as we have every reafon to believe, the moft favourable impreffions of our conduct and character with the inhabitants of them,—and grateful, on our part, for the generous friendfhip and anxious fervices we received from them.——After a very favourable voyage, carrying the trade winds through the whole of it, we arrived in the Typa, an harbour near Macao, on the 20th of October 1787.' We had, however, fcarcely come to an anchor when the weather began to< wear the appearance of an approaching ftorm, wliich our fhattered veffel was, a* INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. by no means, in a ftate to encounter. We were alfo very much alarmed oh feeing two French frigates, as they appeared, riding at anchor, about a mile from us. The minds of people fo long harrafled with hardfhips, and fecluded from all political intelligence, were not in a ftate to form favourable conjectures, particularly as it was fuch an uncommon circumftance to fee French , {hips of war in thefe feas. When, therefore, we faw feveral boats filled with troops putting off from them, we concluded the worft.—Having no confidence in the prote&ion of a neutral port, we began to look towards a ftate of captivity as the concluding fcene of our misfortunes. Thefe boats, however, palled by us, as we afterwards learned, to board a Spanifh merchantman in fearch of runaway failors. The French 'fhips proved to be the Calypfo frigate of 36 guns, and a ftore fhip, commanded by the Count de Kergarieu.—But, as if we were deftined to be perfecuted by difafters to the laft, we had no fooner loft out apprehenfion of human enemies, than we were aflailed by elementary foes ; for fuch was the violent gale which now came on, that the Calyp{b frigate could with difficulty preferve her ftation with five anchors. The fituation of the Nootka, therefore, who had only one left, may be better conceived than «fe* fcribed. After adding a few more hair-breadth efcapes to thofe from which Ihe had already been providentially delivered, we wete obliged to ran her afhore, as the only means of prefervation. This was, however, happily effected bv the a&ive affiftance of the Count de Kergarieu, his officers and feamen of whofe generous, and, I may add, indefatigable fervices, I am happy to make this page a grateful, though imperfect record. It is with the moft painful fcnfations, that while I exprefs the moft grateful aftonifhment at the prefervation of myfelf, and the remainder of my crew from the imminent dangers and difafters which we encountered, I am to lament the fate of our confort the Otter Sloop, Captain Tipping.-No tidings have been received of her after fhe left Prince William's Sound.-We muft conclude therefore that fhe and her people have perifhed beneath the waves. OBSER- 10 rmmmrmmB- 20 nn'ii) titr IT HE NOiRTHERN Longitude Eaft of Greenwich mmem ■- ramm J. Haywood'. del*SfJfar/ihj Church faroi7 WeezlmaiitfJJufloH,, SctUpfJtufrel Court. OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE NORTH WEST PASSAGE, ®c. TH E attention of Great Britain, as well as of other commercial countries of Europe, has long been directed to the Coaft of America, with the hope of difcovering a paflage between the Northern Pacific and Atlantic Oceans.— From the beginning of this century to the laft voyage of Captain Cook, a general belief prevailed in the exiftence of fuch a paflage, and various expeditions have been equipped and fent-forth, to realize opinions founded on it, or to put an end to it, by determining, if poffible, that it was erroneous and without foundation. It is unneceflary, as it would be impertinent in me to enter at large into the well-known hiftory of the original idea of a North Weft paflage, and the fub- fequent attempts to difcover it, with the various difputes it occafioned.—I fhall only obferve that Mr. Dobbs, by whofe influence and from whofe fuggeftions the parliamentary reward was granted to the difcoverers of this important object, clofed his life, which was diftinguifhed by an indefatigable attention to it, in a firm belief of its exiftence, and that the prefent century would not be compleated before the difcovery of this paflage would give new advantages to the commerce of his. country. ijisJab F Indeed xlii OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF Indeed it does not appear that the Britifh nation was, by any means, fatisfied or convinced that the voyages 'which had been performed for the difcovery of a North Weft gafiage had be<?n decifive.—Though the Eaftern fide of America had been explored at large, yet the numerous Sounds, Bays, and Inlets remaining to be examined, were fufi%ient to juftify a continuance of eouje&ure, and tore-excite the enterprifing fpirit of fubfequent adventurers. The beneficial confequences that would arife from the difcovery of a North Weft paflage are felf-evident; for although India is, in a manner, brought fo much nearer to Europe by the modern improvements in fhipping and navigation, yet to fhorten the prefent circuitous courfe, is an object of the firft commercial importance.—It was indeed for this purpofe that the voyage of Captain Cook was undertaken by the command of his Majefty, to difcover, if poffible, a paflage between the two oceans; and to begin his Eefearch on the Coaft of New AJbidii '' The- voyages which had been made in preceding periods to Hudfon's and! Baffin's Bays, with the fame view, though unfuceei<sful, as to the main object," fetwe&rather to confirm the* exifbej&ae of it? awdMr. Dobbs, who had made1 it a puincipall ©bsj>©lJs of his ambition and his lifeywas continually making converts'tot- hisfiwour-ket fyftem. It was in confequence of his felicitation s that Middleton was fent out; yet the queftion did not feem to have received any elucidation from his voyage.—His proceedings were faid to be kept fecret, or his account garbled ; and the Hudfon's Bay company incurred a confiderable degree of odium, which encneafed in proportion as the exiftence of a North Weft paflage coittiniretl'' to grow on the popular belief and expectation. .'Sabfequenfevoyages were made without producing any certainty as to the great obje&ofrthena);, and the opinions of the public were either in a ftate of hefita- tion w divifion concerning it, when the naval minifter of the period difpatched ¥oung: and Bickersgill fucceffively to Baffin's Bay, and Cook to the Wefter-h1' fide of America, to determine the queftion, if poffible, for~ever.—How far this A NORTH WEST PAS-SAGE, yf. xlifi important matter is determined by Captain Cook's voyage, the account of it* univerfally read and known, will difcover.—Thofe of Young and Pickersgill have never been publifhed ; but we are informed, on the refpectable authority of the Preface to the Voyages of Captain Cook, that they failed entirely of the end propofed.—Baffin's Bay, therefore, which is yet unexplored, maybe thought to afford fome hopes of this moft defirable communication. In the voyage of Captain Cook it is feen, that after performing the lefler objects of it, he arrives on the coaft of New Albion, and inftead of beginning his refearches in the latitude of 65° North, according to the language of his inftrudtions, he commences his furvey in a much lower latitude, until he arrives in King George's Sound, fucceffively in Prince William's Sound, and the river which is fince honoured with his name. He then fails to the latitude pointed out by his orders; and, in the end, finds an infurmountable obftruc- tion in a barrier of ice which is fupp'ofed to reach to the North Pole; from which circumftance alone the conclufion is drawn, that there is no paflage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. It cannot, indeed, be too much regretted, that the particular portion of the Coaft of America between the latitude of 560 and 500 North, and 470 and 480 North, did not admit of more attention than appears to have been beftowed on them. The weather in this important part of the voyage was fo unfavourable-, that the fhips were prevented from approaching the coaft ; for though the Fe« lice and Iphigenia did explore thefe latitudes, yet there is every reafon to lament that Captain Cook was himfelf prevented from fuch an examination as would have proceeded from him. When the great Navigator was engaged in exploring thefe low latitudes, he was, at that momehS, in pofl'effion of Mr. Heam^S' eesefcacrofs the continent of America to the North of 700, which appears t® atfn Jhf&te'all hopes of a paf- F 2 fage xliv OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF fage between Fort Churchill and Copper-mine River. Yet Captain Cook, even contrary to his inftructions, thought it expedient to explore thofe very parts on the Weftern fide; a circumftance which may certainly juftify us in fuppofing, that he did not think the route of Mr, Hearne fo very conclufive as it has fince been imagined. A general conclufion has been alfo drawn, that a paflage to the Northward of 700 would be of n*o general utility; and the probability, nay even the exiftence of a paflage South of 700 is decided. Neverthelefs, the naval minifter, in full pofleffion of the Hudfon Bay Company's difcoveries, thought it right to fend both Young and Pickersgill fucceffively into Baffin's Bay, to explore a paf- fage that way ; from which arrangement it may be concluded that government, at leaft, had every reafon to believe that a North Weft paflage did exift ; and I am by no means convinced by any fubfequent voyages or reafonings upon them, that the grounds of former opinions on this fubject are materially changed. On the contrary, the practicability, as well as poffibility of a North Weft Paflage ftill remains, as far as my judgment goes, in all its former ftate of expectation ; but whether to the North or South of Mr. Hearne's track and fea, will be hereafter eonfidered. It is well-known, that in the difputes which this fubje-a occafioned, at a former period, much acrimony mingled in the difcuffion ; and the Hudfon's Ba Company were accufed of difcouraging the purfuit, and keeping thofe difcoveries which had been made, and might have aided the future adventurer, in myfte- rious darknefs; or, which is much worfe, of altering and falfifying fuch accounts of their people as they were obliged to unfold, relative to the enquiries after a North Weft pafTage.-Thefe prejudices are found ftill to prevail but as we be lieve, without any reafon. We, at leaft, are amongft thofe who have' an entire reliance on the communications of the Hudfon's Bay Company and if we mould be found to differ from Mr. Hearne, we truft it will appear that in the -arguments which will be brought forward, we are fupported by fuch fads as will juftify A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, &c. xlv juftify our offering them to the public, in behalf of an opinion, which, from the authority of able men, and great names, has of late been confidered not only as a fanciful theory, but become an unpopular doctrine. For this purpofe we beg leave to produce the voyage of the Iphigenia, as related in the body of this work; and it will there be feen that fhe explored the very tracks of the Coaft of America which were not vi-fited by Captain Cook, or other navigators ; in which fpace is found the antient Northern Archipelago, agreeing in pofition and defcription with the accounts of the older voyagers. This fhip enters fo far to the Eaft, that fhe pafles, by three degrees* the Weftern boundary of Mr. Hearne's fea in 720, (but placed by Mr. Arrowfmith, in his chart lately publifhed from Mr. Turner's charts and journals, in the latitude of 68° 15' North, and longitude of 2280 Eaft of Greenwich) when a clear and extenfive paflage is feen without impediments. This Archipelago is found to occupy a fpace from the latitude of 510 North, and longitude of 2310 45' Eaft, to the latitude of 540 30' North, and longitude of 2270 Eaft, the whole of which extenfive fpace was not explored by Captain Cook.. But though it may be faid that fome part of it was examined by the great Navigator, when nothing of this nature was difcovered, it muft be confidered that iflands of great extenj are fimated to the Weftward of this Archipelago, and divided from it in fome places by a fea as wide as the channel of England, as has been proved by the track of the Iphigenia, and that it was the coaft of thefe great Iflands which he fuppofed to be the continent of America, which we are rather difpofed to think he never faw; but, under that idea, continued to explore a latitudinal chain of iflands, ftretching from 450 to 650 North \. nay, perhaps, much further North and South, forming a Weftern barrier to the real continent of America : For there is a ground for more than common conjecture, that King George's Sound, Cook's River, and the whole coaft hitherto feen, are part of a lengthened, chain of detached iflands. The P m OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF The channels of this Archipelago were found to be wide and capacious, with near two hundred fathoms depth of water, huge promontories ftretching out into the fea, where whales and fea-otters are feen in an incredible abundance.— In fome of thefe channels there are iflands of ice, which we may venture to fay could never have been formed on the Weftern fide of America, which is a mild and moderate climate ; fo that their exiftence cannot be reconciled to any other idea, than that they received their formation in the Eaftern Seas, and have been drifted by tides or currents through the paflage for whofe exiftence we are contending. We know not how to account for thefe large floating mafles of ice in any other manner.—The Northern Pacific Ocean is never.encumbered with interruptions of this nature, and is navigable in every feafon of the year; for,- though the Nootka was frozen up fo many months in Prince William's'Sound, it was in a partial manner, and in an harbour whofe water, to a certain depth, was frefhened by the rivulets and ponds that were emptied into it. Here were evident reafons therefore why the froft fhould operate with more power there;— but, after all, the iee was not of an extraordinary thicknefs ; and during the whole of the winter, the great Sound was without ice, and even the mouth of the river remained unfrozen. Indeed, had not the crew been wholly debilitated by their difaftrous fufferings, the fhip would have been cut out of the ice, and put to fea. In navigating the coaft of this part of America from 45 to 6f North, nothing like a congregated body of ice had been feen; and, inftead of fuppofing themfelves to be navigating the Northern regions, the navigators might fuppofe themfelves to be ranging beneath a tropical climate.—It would, however, be a fatif- fadtory circumftance, if it were poffible to know whether that barrier of ice, feen by Captain Cook in Behring's Strait, continues immovably fixed ; for it might be fuppofed that the Northerly winds, which are there fo very prevalent, might, perchance float the feparated ice, as in other feas j and it is by no means un- reafonable A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, die. xlyii rearonable to fuppofe, that in fuch cafe, the icy fragments might fometimes float towards Cook's River or Prince William's Sound.; but no fuch thing as a particle of ke has ever been feen from the month of March to October* the times and feafons when the North Weft Coaft of America has been navigated. A writer of confiderable authority in whatever relates to geography and navigation*, has declared that he has long fufpected fheNofth Weft part of Hudfon** Bay to confift of broken iflands, and his fufpicions on this matter appear to arife from an examination of various maps both printed and manufcript, communicated to him by the company, of the Weft fide of Hudfon's Bay.—He reprefents them, however, to be difcordant and indiftinct, and treats with merited contempt the folly of pretending in fo fliort a time as has generally been employed to determine with precifion on the bays and inlets in fuch extenfive founds as thofe of Wager andChefterfield.—He is of opinion that Hearne's tract is decifive, as far as it goes, in cafe the lakes and rivers be faffed were frefh water, which, however, is not abfolutely afcertained. But he is ftill indecifive as to a general queftion of a North Weft Paflage ; and, with all his knowledge of the fdbiect and ingeauity of inveftigation, he chufes to leave the matter open- for future difcuffion and enquiry. In fpeaking of the Chefterfield inlet, of which he faw four differ&it charts in the pofleffion of the Hudfoir Bay Company, all o# which differed from, each? other, he obferves, that it was navigable for upwards of two hundred geographic- miles for veffels of the largeft burthen ;. and, he adds, it might have been expected that many commercial advantages wouddi have eafued from'ftch a difcovery : but, continues he, I am given to underftand that the Company's fervants; are extremely averfe to any Northern expeditions; and! eVery man converfant m public bufmefs muft kn©w the difficulty, almoft amounting to an impoffibHity,. of conftraining men at a diftance to execute any thing, contrary to their incl&a* tions. It * Mr. Dalryjupfei xlviii OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF It appears, as has been juft hinted, to be the opinion of this gentleman, that, according to Mr. Hearne's information, there can be no fea communication from Hudfon's Bay to the Pacific Ocean under 720 of North latitude, which is that of the fea feen by Mr. Hearne, the exaft latitude of which, however, is not determined, though Mr. Hearne thinks he cannot have erred above 20'. On the contrary, the map of the Canadian traders makes this identical polar fea to be in the latitude of 68° 15' North ; which is lefs than Mr. Hearne's obfervation at Conge-ca-tha-wha-chaga, viz. 68° 46' North, if that is an obfervation of reliance. If the communications which have been made from the refpectable authority of the Canadian Merchants, fome of whom were fully adequate to this bufihefs,t are thought deferving of credit, there muft either be two fituations where the Polar fea has been feen, in the varying latitudes of 68° 15' North, and 720 North, or the matter muft reft in doubt between Mr. Hearne's obfervations and thofe of the Canadian merchants: we will, however, fuppofe, for a moment, that the latitude of thePolar fea, as marked by the latter, is correct, it then .becomes by no means improbable that Cook's River may have fome communication with this fea, in 68° 15', as thediftance from the higheft latitude at which navigators have arrived in that river is 61° 30', and longitude 2 io°, and the latitude and longitude of the fea feen by the Canadians, 6S° 15' North, and 2280 Eaft ; the diftance being no more than 620 geographic miles. If, therefore, we credit the Canadian accounts, which bear the character of accuracy, and thereby fix the fea feen by Mr. Hearne in the latitude of 68° 1,5', and longitude 2280 Eaft, it would at once fuggeft a more than poffible communication between Cook's River and the Southernmoft part of- Baffin's Bay, or theNorthernmoft part of Hudfon's Bay into the Atlantic Ocean. For it fhould be remembered, that in the higheft known latitude of Cook's River no impediment was obferved to the further progrefs of {hips, either from rocks fhoals, or a want of a due depth of water ; the channel, on the contrary, appearing capacious and extenfive, and abounding with whales. There A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, &c. xlix There are, according to the moft correct information, feveral curious charts or maps in the pofleffionof the Hudfon's Bay Company, drawn by different per- fons, and fome even fketched by Indians, of the interior parts of the country, towards the North Weft, and the lands that bind the Northern Pacific- Ocean.— On the face of thefe charts, particularly on one defcribed by two Indians, appear feveral rivers and inlets, unknown to Europeans, which communicate with the Arathapefcow lake, and from this lake the river Kifcachewan runs North Weft into the Pacific Ocean, communicating, perhaps, with Cook's River, the Northern Archipelago, or what we fhall call the Straits of John de Fuca.— Thefe charts bear a great refemblance to thofe made by the Canadian traders, which renders them extremely interefting. The Indian maps imply that Hudfon's Bay communicates with the Polar Sea, which countenances the opinion of a paflage by Repulfe Bay, which itfelf has not been perfe&ly examined; and this feems, as it is obferved by |fhe fame an* th*3ff&y, to be confirmed by an anonymous jjaasufefipt belonging to the Company ; but it expreffes the water to be {hallow where Captain Middleton went. The failure of this voyage, however, is'well known to have excited great clamours and difcontents, which, in many inftances, ftruck at the fidelity of the relation. Whatever may have been the juftice of former complaints concerning the myfterious concealments of the Hudfon's Bay Company, no charge of this nature can be imputed to the gentlemen who now compofe that refpectable corporation. Among other proofs of their liberal conduct and difpofition, their prefent plan of making furveys, and profecuting difcoveries in Hudfon's Bay, &c. deferves to be diftinguifhed. Mr. Duncan, a mafter in the Royal Navy, failed in the laft Hudfon's Bay {hip to their fettlement, for the exprefs purpofe of exploring and furveying not G only I OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF only Hudfon's Bay, but Baffin's Bay; he will therefore be employed this year, on his arrival at the Company'sr factories, to perform in fmall veflels this ufeful and necefl'ary fervice.—We underftand that the Company have engaged him, upon the moft liberal terms, for two years ; and it is therefore to be expected that, during the fummer of this year, he will have made a very confiderable progrefs.—Mr. Duncan, as the reader will recollect, has already been mentioned with due praife, for his active and perfevering fpirit during the time he commanded the fmall veffel called the Princefs Royal; and we fhould feel an added fatisfadtion on this fubjefl:, if it were to be his peculiar good fortune to fucceed where a Middleton and fo many others have failed, and to make a difcovery of fo much importance to the commerce of Great Britain. The obfervation naturally occurs, that the Hudfon's Bay Company, in the employment of Mr. Duncan in this track of difcovery, appear to be, by no means, without their expectation of fucceeding at laft in difcovering a com- ■munication between Hudfon's or Baffin's Bay, and the Northern Pacific Ocean. The voyage of the Felice is only an additional fupport.—She enters the Straits of John de Fuca between the latitudes of 480 30' North, and the longitude Of '2350 Eaft; and latitude 470 30/and longitude 2350 30' Eaft; and finds them fifteen leagues in breadth ; very capacious, with a depth of 150 fathoms water, where whales and fea-otters were feen in great abundance.—If the ancient accounts of thefe places are referred to, there is found to be fuch an agreement between them and our own as to border on conviction.—When this fea or ftrait is entered, a clear, uninterrupted horizon to the Eaft, prefents itfelf to view in the longitude of 2360 30' Eaft from Greenwich, which is no more than 460 leagues from Hudfon Bay, and occupies a fituation to the Eaftward of Mr. Hearne's fea agreeable to the obfervations before mentioned. If it fhould be afked why thefe ftraits were not penetrated, or at leaft fome attempt made to penetrate them, the A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, (3c K the anfwer is at hand,—the deftruftion of our commercial enterprize by the fhips of his Catholic Majefty. The feveral voyages which have been made to the North Weft Coaft of America, previous to thofe of the Felice and Iphigenia, have each thrown new lights, and made additional difcoveries in that part of the globe. No fooner was the valuable commerce that was to be procured in King George's Sound made known to the world, than the active fpirit of adventure arofe ; and ftrange as it may appear, four different expeditions ftarted in the year 1786, from different parts of the globe, to engage in this commerce, without any knowledge of each other's defigns, or of courfe fufpecting any kind of competition, until they arrived on the Coaft of America, when, as it may be fuppofed, any difcouraging circumftance would come too late to make the adventurers fhrink from the enterprize. Previous, however, to every other expedition, a veffel was equipped in China in the year 1785, by gentlemen of the firft mercantile abilities and reputation* the command of her was entrufted to Captain James Hanna, who fet fail in her to feek the diftant continent of America, to explore its coafts, and to open fuch an intercourfe with the inhabitants as might tend to a future commercial eftablifhment with them. The fize of the veffel, which was under 70 tons, her equipment, which fearcely amounted to thirty perfons, and every circumftance belonging to her, ferved to imprefs the minds of all concerned in the Jjufinefs with an high idea of the fpirit of the man who had undertaken to conduct his little band of Argonauts in an almoft untried courfe, and where dangers were not to be avoided, or prepared for by the communicated experience of preceding adventurers. Captain Hanna, on leaving China, pUrfUed his Courfe in the vicinity of Japan, paffing through the Laqueo Iflands, and encountering fogs, vapours, and ftorms, Si OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF till he arrived in King George's S^und,—the fecoad European after Captain Cook had left it. The natives, prefuming upon the inferior fize of the veffel, and the confined number of the crew, made a defperate attack upon her, which was repulfed by the fuperior bravery and good conduct of their new vifitors. Thefe hoftilities, however, foon ended in commercial friendfhip ; and a quantity of fea-otter fkins was obtained from them. Captain Hanna departed from thefe people on the moft friendly terms, and proceeded to the Northward, where he difcovered feveral founds, iflands, and harbours, which he named Fitzhugh's Sound, Lance's Fftands, and fome particular parts which he named after Henry Lane, Efq; but particularly ah harbour which he called Sea Otter's Harbour. The journal of Captain Hanna was, as1 might be expected, very curious. He was fo kind as to fubmit the examination of them to us; and they appeared, in our judgment, to confirm the difcoveries faid to be made by De Fonte, and which may now be faid to be actually realifed by the knowledge we have of the Great Northern Archipelago. Captain Hanna, We find, enters this Sound, as he efteemed it; whereas it is now known to be a part of the Northern Archipelago ; but bad weather and an heavy fea obliged him to ufe his utmoft expedition in getting out of it. In this voyage we fee the extent of his difcoveries ; for his fecond voyage to the North Weft Coaft of America, in 1786, did not lead to any thing further . than what related to mere commercial adventure ; and, before he could engage in a third, this active and able feaman was called to take that voyage from whence there is no return. It was in 1786, that different bands of trading adventurers ftarted up, as it were, both in India and England, to profecute this commerce.—From India, the equipments took place at Bengal and Bombay, under the patronage of the refpedive governments of thofe places. From the former failed the Nootka J A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, &« 4iH Nootka and the Sea, Otter,—from the latter, the Captain Cook and the Ex- .ff&Bimeat. At the fame period, another equipment took place, for the fame purpofe, in China; and the Sea Otter failed from thence, and was joined by the Lark, which was fitted out with that intention for the coaft of America. About the fame time certain merchants in England, and, in particular, the Meffrs. Etches of London, engaged in a fimilar adventure. Having obtained a licenfe from the South Sea Company to carry on this trade exclufively, with regard to England, for the term of five years ; and having been favoured with a permiffion from the Eaft India Company to lade teas home from China, thefe gentlemen equipped the fhips King George and Queen Charlotte in a very fuperior manner, and gave the command of them to Lieutenant Portlock of the royal navy, and who had already been frequently employed by them as mafter of a trading veffel in their fervice. Thefe fhips left England in the month of September, 1785, near feven months before any of the equipments fet fail from the different parts of India. The Captain Cook and the Experiment, commanded by the Captains Lowrie -and Guife, and under the fuperintendanceofMr. Strange, one of the Company's fervants, failed at the clofe of the year 1785, or early in- the year 1786 : they were equipped in the beft poffible manner by the public fpirit of David Scott, Efquire, of Bombay, who was the principal owner of them. Their commanders were men of abilities, and the inferior officers in every point of fuitable charaaer: fo that confiderable expeaations were formed from fuch an equip- After remaining fome time at Nootka Sound, they explored other parts of the coaft, and arrived in Snug^corner Cove, in Prince William's Sound. In this progrefs they indifputably difcovered that land to which Mr. Dixon gave the name of Charlotte's Ifles, which he did merely from conjeaural opinion, as they were never proved to be fuch till Captain Douglas, in the Iphigenia, failed 1 through liv OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF through the channel which feparates them from what was then fuppofed to be the American Continent. Mr. Strange alfo firft found the bay called Friendly . Cove, which received its prefent name from that gentleman. The King George and Queen Charlotte,—though they pofleffed the advantage of being fitted out at the port of London, were appointed with numerous crews and officers of every denomination, as well as with an arrangement of ftores, &c. fufficient to command every advantage of trade, and alfo to make fettle- ments, form faaories, which they were authorized to do, and build veflels,—-their voyage was tedious and dilatory; and their fucctfs, both with refpea to commerce or difcovery, by no means adequate to their fuperior equipment. After thefe fhips had feparated, the Queen Charlotte proceeded to the Southward of Prince William's Sound ; and continuing her courfe to that part .of the coaft, named by Captain Cook Behring's Bay, fhe entered a port which then received the name of Port Mulgrave. Captain Dixon then proceeds to the Cape Edgecumbe of Cook, and from thence traces the coaft till he arrived in a port which was honoured with the appellation of Port Banks ; and finally difcovered the Northern part of thofe iflands whofe Southern-extremity was firft difcovered, as has been already mentioned, by the Captains Lowrie and Guife. The {hip then takes her courfe down the Weftern fide of thefe iflands ; and, rounding the Southern extremity of them, proceeds partly between them, and what was, at that time, fuppofed to be the continent of America; but apprehenfive of being entangled among thefe iflands, fhe quitted them at once, and proceeded on her voyage to China, The King George remained a confiderable time in Prince William's Sound; from whence fhe difpatched her long-boat, at two different times, to Cook's River, which made a furvey of fome part of the coaft between Prince William's Sound, that bore a confiderable fhare in the general outline. She then left that Sound; and, after cafually exploring the coaft, and difeovering an harbour ANORTH WEST PASSAGE, & Iv or two, one of which was named Portlock Harbour, fhe took her courfe alfo t© China ; and both {hips returned to Europe. The Imperial Eagle, Captain Barclay, we believe, failed from Europe the beginning of the year 1787 ; and not only arrived at Nootka Sound in Auguft, but explored that part of the coaft from Nootka to Wicananifh, and fo on to a Sound to which he gave his own name. The boat's crew, however, was difpatched, and difcovered the extraordinary ftraits of John de Fuca, and alfo the coaft as far as Queenhythe ;—when, after the fatal cataftrophe which happened to fome of them, this fhip quitted the coaft, and proceeded to China; having performed the whole of the voyage in twelve months, which employed the King George and Queen Charlotte upwards of two years. The Nootka made no other difcovery but that of diftrefs and misfortune. The year 1788 was produaive of conneaing, in fome meafure, the detached and feparate difcoveries of the fhips already mentioned. There were then on the coaft the fhips Prince of Wales and Princefs Royal, the Felice, the Iphigenia, Columbia, and Wafhington; who each contributed her fhare towards compleating the charts of the North Weftern part of the world which are attached to this volume. The Princefs Royal, Captain Duncan, in particular, enters the channel that feparates the Charlotte Ifles from the fuppofed continent, and proceeds exploring both fides; difcovering numerous harbours, founds, and inlets, which completely afcert&ins the Northern Archipelago. He occupies almoft a whole fummer in this ftation; and yet, ftrange as it may appear, quits the coaft of America without knowing that Captain Douglas had already taken the fame courfe :— yet has Captain Duncan, as might be expeaed from him, added many valuable remarks to the geography of this part of the world. The Prince of Wales has added alfo confiderably to the geographical defcription of America. We have only to lament the lofs of her commander to the country,. Ivi OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF country,—as he is now a prifoner with the Spaniards, and ftill fuppoled to-be in that ftate of deranged intelfeas winch immediately fucceeded the treatment he received from the commander of the Spanifh fhips. The part the Iphigenia and Felice bore in conaeaing thefe detached furveys, are recited at large in the pages of this volume. The Wafhington entered the Straits of John de Fuca, the knowledge of which fhe had received from us; and, penetrating up them, entered into an extenfive fea, where fhe fleered to the Northward and Eaftward, and had com- ' miunication with the various tribes who inhabit the fhores of the numerous iflands that arefituated at the back of Nootka Sound, and fpeak, with fome little variation, the language of the Nootkan people. The track of this veffel is marked on the map, and is of great moment, as it now completely afcertains that Nootka Sound, and the parts adjacent, are iflands, and comprehended within the Great Northern Archipelago- The fea alfo, which is feen to the Eaft, is of great extent; and it is from this ftationary point, and the moft Wefterly parts of Hudfon's Bay, that we form an eftimate of the diftance between them. The moft Eafterly direaion of the Wafhington's courfe is to the longitude cf 2370 Eaft of Greenwich. It is probable, however, that the mafter of that veffel did not make any aftronomical obfervations to give a juft data of that ftation • but as we have thofe made by Captain Cook at Nootka Sound, we may be able to form a conjeaure fomewhat approaching the truth, concerning the diftance between Nootka and the Eafternmoft ftation of the Wafhington in the Northern Archipelago; and, confequently, this ftation may be prefumed to be in the longitude, or thereabouts, of 2370 Eaft of Greenwich. The afcer- tained longitude of Fort Churchill is 940 12' 30", Weft of Greenwich; and, of courfe, the diftance between the Wafhington's moft Eafterly ftation is 1020 geographic miles; and, by the fame calculation, from Hudfon's Houfe 660 geographic miles; and in the direaion of Eaft by North : but whether A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, 13c ggj the intermediate part between thefe fixed points be fea, river, or land, is a queftion that muft be left to the refult of future difcovery. Thus has been unveiled the whole of the American coaft, particularly thofe parts between the latitudes of 500 and 550 North, and 470 and 480 North; and furely this furvey gives room for fomething more than conjecture on the fubjea. It will teach us alfo to pay fome attention to the account of former navigators ; fince thofe relations of fome of them which have not only been fufpeaed, but abfolutely determined to be errors or fiaions,' now turn out to be real difcoveries. Thefe particulars are faithfully extraaed from nautical journals, and may be confidered as inteiefting alfo, as they relate to the American commerce. It will, indeed, be for the honour of this country to bring thefe refearches to a conclu- fion ; for though it has been a received opinion that it would be in vain to look for a paflage in Hudfon's Bay to the Southward of 67° latitude; and when we find held out to our view how much more Northerly fhips muft hold their courfe, at leaft fome part of their voyage, before they can pafs from one fide of America to the other, yet may not the fea feen by Mr. Hearne be that very higheft point ?:—May not the Northern Archipelago, the Straits of John de Fuca, and Cook's River, all ftretching to the North Eaft—fome of them being more Eaft ward than this fea— may not thefe be the very paflages ?—Is it not poffible that this very fea, feen by Mr. Hearne to piifh boldly into Hudfon's Bay, or the Southernmoft part of Baffin's Bay, be fome inlet or paflage to the Northward of 6y° ? If the corroborating proofs of former writers are brought forward,—if the having a knowledge that from the Copper-Mine River the Indians of Prince William's Sound and the Northern Archipelago procure their copper;—if from the Indians themfelves we are informed that great waters, free from ice, ftretch themfelves to the Northward ;—if thefe particulars can be fuppofed to have any weight, how much will it be encreafed when it is known that&ips have reached H between tn\i OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF between 61 and 62 degrees of latitude in Cook's River, where a ngyigftoftrail*, of confiderable extent, appeared to their view, free from ice or imp^Jimesats of any kind ; and where the rife and fall of the tide was fo great, that there muft be other extenfive channels for the reception of the waters, which call only be to the Eaft. In no part, of the year is ice found in Cook's River;—Mr. Hearne faw none in his fea, except on the margin of the fhores, which may have accumulated, there from the influx of frefh fprings, &c—The Weftern fea of America is-alfo at all times navigable and free from ice, as far as we can afcertain, to the latitude of 640 North. There is but one circumftance more before we clofe what we have to offer in favour of a North Weft paflage, open to the purpofe of navigation.—If, there* fore, we eaft our eyes on the general map of the world, particularly on the Northern portion of it to the Eaft, we find'laid down on the chart that great extent of land bounded by Baffin's Bay, yet unexplored.—In the Weft, we perceive that portion of terra firma, within the araic circle, bounded by ice, which, feparates Alia from America, and which flopped the progrefs of Captain Cook ; let us then .eaft our eyes on that part of the fea feen by Mr. Hearne, and reconcile, if we can, the poffibility of its being any part of the Frozen Ocean which we imagine to flow round thofe lands that are thought to reach to the Pole. If it is the Frozen Ocean, to what height of latitude muft the land of Baffin's Bay ftretch ?—In what latitude the Weftern portion fo bounded by fea ? We muft either prefume that thefe lands do not reach to the Pole, if this is the Frozen Sea; or if we conclude that they do, then the fea feen by Mr. Hearne identical paflage between the two oceans. can be no other than the ftrait, Can it be fuppofed that the Efquimaux round with their canoes either Baffin's land or the Weftern portion to arrive at this fea. Should it not rather be believed that thofe people come from the Weftern fide for the copper and 1 the j A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, ¥c. Us the whale; and that-tiik creature himfelf had made his paflage through thofe vesry channels which had conveyed the roving tribe here from Cook's River, Prince WilKam's Sound, or the Northern Archipelago. And if this idea is rejeaed, let it be aflsed finally, by what fea and by which navigation did the whale come into Mr. Hearne's fea ; whether did he take his courfe round Baffin's land, or boldly pufh through the barrier of ice feen by Captain Cook, and which is fuppofed. to extend to the Northern pole of the world. Here he is oppofed and repulfed, nor do we believe that he ever got ronmd the lasnd of Baffin. We are. bold enough, however, to hazard an opinim,. that this fea' feen in 720, or placed by others in 68° 30'; or, according to Peter Pond, in 65% is no other than that part of the communication between theNorthern Pacific and Atlantic Oceans which empties itfelf either in Baffin's, or Hudfon's Bay ; and that through thefe channels, which are ftufficiently deep and capacious for navigation, the whale and other huge marine animals find a fafe and eafy paflage. , .The Jbdians feen by Mr. Hearne, and who were deftroyed by the party that conduacd him through his dreary route, were, in all probability, a pare 0$ a tribe of the Weftern fide, on an expedition to the mines to procure copp€»>*-i-' Perhaps they were inhabitants of Cook's River.—Copper abounds amongft thefe numerous tribes;—it is the medium of barter with their more Southern neighbours. We have feen in their pofleffion mafles of confiderable weight from the mines, and of extreme finenefs. They told us that they went far Northward for it, and found the ore in the earth, fcattered about, and, as we underftood them, thrown up by a volcano from the fea.—The Indians feen by Mr. Hearne were Eiquimaux, agreeing in manners and cuftoms, and inheriting all that mifery of this extenfive tribe, which is perceived on the Weftern Coaft ef America, as far South as to the latitude of 500 North; It has been faid that the Spanifh navigator, Don Franoifco Antonio Maurelle, in 1775V iBfited that part of the continent of America not feen by Capita tain ix OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF tain Cook in his progrefs to the Northward; and that this voyage, therefore, is peculiarly interefting to navigation, as he pronounces that no fuch ftraits are to be found as thofe of De Fuca, or fuch an Archipelago as that of Admiral De Fonte. The particulars of this voyage, kept fo fecret by the Court of Spain, has been communicated to the world by that truly refpeaable, philofophic and learned gentleman, the Honourable Mr. Daines Barrington. Its fuppofed merits for fome time ftood the teft of criticifm.—It received an additional authority after the return of our laft circumnavigators, as it favoured their opinions that no credit was to be given to the fuppofed difcoveries of De Fonte or De Fuca, which were now determined to be nothing more than the romance of a former century, or the fiaion of an enthufiaftic mind. In our turn, we do not hefitate to pronounce, that no attention whatever is to be paid to the charts of Mr. Maurelle, as totally contrary to truth and faa. They give no idea of the real pofition of the Coaft of America ; and, of courfe, involve the journals of the fame navigator, from whence they have been drawn,* in their own mifreprefentations. There is no method more ready or more deci- five, than to compare the chart of Maurelle's voyage, with the chart of Captain. Cook, or that which has been prepared from the voyage of the Felice and the Iphigenia, and which comprehend all the difcoveries made by other Britifh navigators, who have.vifited the American Coaft. Mr. Maurelle's chart will then have abided a fair trial, and of courfe receive the judgment it deferves. We have now ftated fully, explicitly, and, we hope, without prefumption, the different points which have given rife to our belief in the exiftence of a North Weft paflage. An argument on which fo much depends, requires every aid to fupport it that can be derived from any corroborating teftimony ; yet we fhall not attempt if . I A NORTH WEST PASSAGE,'^. hi to mention fuch as may be doubtful, however favourable they may be to our general purpofe, without expreffing our hefitation as to their authenticity. Thus, if Mr. Peter Pond's difcoveries were fatisfaaorily authenticated, they would operate powerfully in our favour, as they would materially correa the route of Mr. Hearne, by altering the fea feen by that gentleman in 720 to 6$°, and confequently leave a ready and open communication between Cook's River and that fea; and, perhaps the fame in Baffin's or Hudfon's Bay; but we are ready to acknowledge that we are not without our doubts refpeaing Mr. Pond; as his account, however, is in every body's hands, we fhall leave its claim to credibility exaaiy in the fame ftate in which we found it. But there is an author of great refpeaability, whofe obfervations we have already quoted, to whom we fhall be indebted for further affiftance; and as he ftates clearly the ancient accounts of the exiftence of the Archipelago of Saint Lazarus, and the Straits of John de Fuca, we rely with certainty on them, and are thus enabled, by his previous labours, to leflen our own. We fhall only, therefore, with his affiftance, ftate a few leading points, to fhew the grounds on which we reft our belief of the exiftence of thefe places, which have been attributed by very learned men to the impofition of fome, and the ignorance of others. This author obferves, that recent navigators have found an archipelago of iflands, and the ftrongeft indications of a large river, where fuch are defcribed by Admiral de Fonte : and this, he adds, gives countenance to that too haftily exploded narration.—We have, it-is true, old traditions or narratives of the Archipelago of De Fonte, and the Straits of De Fuca, in Hacluit, Purchas and Harris, but on what grounds, or from what difcoveries, is at prefent wrapped in obfcurity. -But Mr. Dalrymple comes armed with better authority,—. and informs, us that the Burgomafter Witfon, in his fecond edition of the Nord and OrtTartarye, in 1705, fays he had in his poffeffion the original manufcript lxS OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF of the account of the celebrated navigator De Fonta, and not De Fonte, having furveyed Terra del Fuego in 1649.—This circumftance'goes ve^y.far to prove that fuch aperfon did exift; and we may confequently form an opinion, that if he performed one voyage in 1649, that he migh*:'have accomplifhed the other as-reoi'ted by -Purchas, &c. in 1640 ; and the recent difcoveries of this very Arehipelago ferves to countenance this opinion. But be this as it may* and? whatever- authority may be due to BurgomafterWitfon, we are ready to vouch for- the Northern Archipelago being, in the: fame fpot as that of De Fonta. f The account of the Straits of De Fuca is no left extraordinary.—A very curious piece of intelligence is communicated by him, on the authority of the Right Honourable Mr. Greville, who received it from Sir John Macpherfon, to whom it-was related by fome Spaniards at the Cape of Good Hope; who informed Sir John that, very lately, an entrance in the latitude of 47°45' North was found, which conveyed them in twenty-feven days into the vicinity of, Hudfon's- Bay;—what can be faid to fuch extraordinary intelligence? John de Fuca, according to Mr. Hacluit, was a Greek pilot, who in 1592, failed into an inlet of great breadth, between the latitudes of 470 and 48°, which led him into- a far broader fea, wherein he failed twenty days,. and arrived in the Atlantic Ocean.—He defcribes a great head-land or ifland, with an exceedingly high pinnacle rock placed near it, which is, in all probability, the very ifland or headland whereon our friend Tatootche has his town and fortrefs; and as to the pinnacle rock, we have had ocular demonftration of its being placed in the entrance of this fea, as well as the great ifland or headland which we have particularized in the voyage of the Felice in that latitude. De Fuca, it feems, communicated this information to Mr. Lock, when that gentleman, was at Venice, and offered to perform the voyage, on condition of receiving 60,000 ducats.—The venerable and parfimonious minifters of Queen Elizabeth, amongft whom, was Cecil, refufed: Mr. Lock being unable, A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, (3c. J,S out of hh own private fortune, to reward the pilot, the matter dropped, though he continued to keep up a conftant eorrefpondence with him.—Affidrs taking another turn, it Was determined to employ the pilot, and Lock went to Italy in order to bring him to England ; when, on his- arrival, he found that die pilot had died a fliort time before. Such is the account given by Hacluit, Purchas, &c. and adopted by all nautical hiftorians fiace their time. It is no lefs curious that another man who was at Portugal about the feme time, fhould have publifhed a book, treating of a North Weft paflage, and ftating that he had paffed through it. This book was fupprefied by the Court of Lifbon.—But to corroborate and ftrengthen my own aflertions, I bring the authority of Captain Barclay's officers, &c. who faw every particular which I declare to have feen,—having furveyed thefe parts in a boat,—though he him- felf did not go within fome leagues of the ftrait:—It is alfo to be remarked, that the Princefs Royal, Captain Duncan, faw them alfo; and finally, we offer the. proofs brought by the Wafhington, which failed through a fea that extends upwards of 8 degrees of latitude. In reading the accounts of the ancient voyagers, we were forcibly ftruck with the refemblance between the inhabitants as defcribed by John de Fuca, and thofe with which we had a communication.—Amongft many particulars we will fefea one, which is direaiy in point; independent of their being cloathed in furs and bears fkins, as he mentions them, he goes on to tell us, that they bind their childrens' heads between two boards when very young, which prac? tke gives the head the form of a fugar-loaf; and in our account of the people of Nootka, this cuftom has been particularly remarked, and we reckon Tatootche among the number of Nootkan Princes.—The latitude in which we found thi* ftrait placed, certainly differs from that in which the old authors have laid it down ; but that may be eafily accounted for, from the great difference between the crofs-ftaff, which was the aftronomical inftrument of Columbus, and our quadrant;—and we believe, even a few years back, our navigators did not attend K OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF tend fufficiently to even the correaions neceffary for the fun's declination,. which will alfo produce a great difference of calculation. " Another account of a former date, relative to this paflage, muft not be omitted, which is the voyage of Thomas Peche, as given by Mr. Dalrymple.— He relates that he failed up the'Strait of Anian, 120 leagues, in 1676, intending to return to England that way ; but the month of Oaober being well advanced, and the winds Northerly,—which, by the bye, we obferved to be always the cafe,—he returned back, and coafting California, New Spain and Peru, came into the North fea by the ftraits of Magellan, 1677.—He found from Cape Mendocino on California, the current fet to the North Eaft for more than 20 leagues within the channel:—But where thefe ftraits are fituated, it is difficult to judge from the fhort account given of this man's voyage. It would only encreafe uncertainty, and involve enquiry in greater perplexity, if we were to enter upon an examination of the interior geography of this part of America. There are, it is true, charts formed of it, but it is im- poffible we can refign our judgment to them ;—it is fo eafy to fill up fpaces with imaginary lakes and rivers, that only tend to miflead us ; and though the Arathapefcow Lake bears all the marks of authenticity, yet we know not, from any refpeaable authority, that its fituation is aftronomically fixed. We muft beg leave to add one more conjeaure, which is that of Mr. Dalrymple, and in which I perfeaiy coincide, that the Lake de Fonte may be the identical Lake Arathapefcow; which, if that fhould be the cafe, communicates with the Northern Pacific Ocean : and the Arathapefcow Lake, according to two Indian manufcript charts in the pofleffion of the company, poflefles a communication with Hudfon's Bay ;-a circumftance which induces Mr. Dalrymple to remark, with his ufual fagacity, that it would be highly expedient to examine what obftruaions there are to navigate thither; for this lake is reported by Mr. Hearne,—from the information of the Indians,—to be about J A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, ^ lxv about 400 miles in length.—He is alfo of opinion, that the moft effeaual method of making this examination, would be from the Arathapefcow Lake, which by the obfervation of the longitude of Hudfon's houfe, appears to be much nearer Hudfon's houfe than Mr. Hearne's map reprefents it.—Indeed, though that gentleman has much merit for his enterprifing fpirit and painful refearches, he has left much yet to be done ; for it could not be fuppofed that Mr, Hearne could poffibly be qualified to form a chart of fuch extenfive regions which fhould be definitive. It may alfo be. obferved that the Hudfon's Bay Company have an houfe in 5$° o' 32" North, and longitude 1060 2 7d 20" Weft, which is above 530 geographic miles from their neareft fettlement in the Bay; the diftance» therefore, to compkat the communication between that place and Nootka, is above 700 geographic miles. On the authority of Mr. Turner the Hud- fon Bay Company's furveyor, the Indians report that the river continues to be navigable as far above Hudfon's houfe as below it, and that it is as eafy a navigation as that of the Thames, there not being one fall or rapid, after paffing that near Winipig Lake, in a courfe of more than 200 miles ; but it is probable that the communication between Hudfon's Bay and the Weft Coaft of America would, with more facility, be made in an higher latitude, by means of the Chefterfield inlet, or fome of the inlets and rivers from Hudfon's Bay, conneaing with the Arathapefcow, Dobaunt and other lakes. Of the navigation of the Weftern fide of America we are clear and decided, as well as of thofe inlets, great founds, and openings of the fea at the back of Nootka.—And as to the Eaftern fide of the continent,—though, as yet, we have nothing but conjeaure in favour of the belief that either through Hudfon's Bay, or the Southern parts of Baffin's Bay, navigable inlets may be found to communicate with the Eaftern Pacific Ocean,—one circumftance is clear in our favour, which is, that we have the moft inconteftable proof that the geography of Hudfon's Bay is but yet imperfoaiy known, and that with / Baffin's ~';fxvi OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF Baffin's Bay we are wholly unacquainted ; fo that-the idea of the difcovery of a North Weft Paflage ftill continues to have a reafonable foundation.—And we I truft that the fervants of the Hudfon's Bay Company will conquer every averfion, we are informed they have hitherto poflefled, to thofe Northern expeditions; which may, at length, end in the difcovery of a North Weft Paflage. ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, AND CHINA, &c. ®c. T T muft afford a very animating fatisfa&ion to every patriot mind, that the trade and commerce of this country are gradually extending themfelves over every part of the globe; and that from the encouragement given by wife minifters, and the enterprifing fpirit of opulent merchants, every .corner - of the earth,where the winds blow and the fea rolls its waves, will, fooner or later, be explored, to encreafe the wealth, the power, and the profperity of the Britifh Empire. - To Captain Cook, among other great and public benefits, we are indebted for the commerce of the North Weft Coaft of America, and its profitable application to the China market; a commerce, which when more known, and of courfe more cultivated, will, we doubt not, prove of the firft advantage to this country. . It The Ixvili ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE The riches which the immenfe Southern Pacific Ocean offers to the adventurous fpirit of trade, is far beyond the prefent conceptions of it; and the empires of China and Japan may not only become new fources of commercial advantage to this kingdom, in the exports of her manufaaures, but prove the means of encreafing her maritime ftrength; and thereby aggrandizing,. in the moft ample manner, the power of the Britifh Empire. In the preceding pages, which contain our obfervations on the probable exiftence of a North Weft Paflage, fome account is given of the feveral .adventurers to the North Weft Coaft of America fince the difcovery of its valuable commerce by Captain Cook. The fate of them, as it generally happens in all new fchemes of adventure, has been varioufly unfuccefsful.—Two of the fmall number of fhips which have failed thither, have been wrecked, and others ■ have. proved unfortunate- either from the bad management or ignorance of their conduaors ; from whence a very falfe idea has arifen, that the trade of the North Weft Coaft of America is an unproduaive bufinefs. Other opinions have been propagated which are extremely unfavourable to the adventurers who have engaged in this commerce. It has, indeed, been boldly afferted, and by many as confidently believed, that they have been engaged in a contraband trade on the American Coaft.—It muft, indeed, be- extremely mortifying to thofe gentlemen whofe patriotic and commercial fpirit has led them into fuch adventurous undertakings, to find,, that in addition I to the great loffes they have fuftained, their' charaaers, as fair and honeflr \merchants, are attacked and calumniated : but the accufation,. which fprings either from envy or ignorance, is founded in falfhood,—and will, we truft, find a refutation in the commercial arrangements of thofe voyages which occupy the preceding pages of this volume. The moft immediate articles hitherto imported from America, have been the fea-otterfki^andfursofan inferior value, of which we have every reafon to- fuppofe J BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND1 CHINA. Ixj» fuppofe there will prove a very great abundance, whenever the induftry of the natives fhall be duly excited to extend-their colleaion of them.—Befides it fhould be obfer-ved, that this-trade is in an infant ftate, and has been hitherto carried on only, as it were, in the vicinity of the American fhores ;—as thofe parts which . have been already vifited, are not, as has been imagined, the coafts of the continent, but an archipelago of iflands, forming a kind of barrier to it. When, therefore, a commercial communication is opened with the continent itfelf, which there is every reafon to fuppofe is numeroufly inhabited, a great and very valuable ] fource of commerce will be unfolded to our country ; forming a chain of trade I between Hudfon's Bay, Canada, and the North Weft Coaft of Arr The articles hitherto employed: in the purchafe of American furs, &c. are in themfelves but of fmall value,, when compared with the prices which thefe furs-obtain at China and other markets ; but when the ex-pence of conveying, them to their deftination is taken into the account, their acquired value is of no trifling confideration.. The firft adventurers employed irou, beads, glafs and Indian gewgaws as- the medium of barter ; but they who fucceeded them added Britifh Woollens, to the trade, and whole villages of American natives were feen clad in blankets,. and decorated with every article of Englifh drefs. Indeed, after fome time,, ' the Indians became fo fond of woollen articles, that no commercial engagement could be formed with thefe people in which, they did not form the commanding inducement. The fea-otter fkin may be a more beautiful and warmer garment, but it is infinitely morecuirfoerfome than the blanket; which, when, once adopted, was preferred in the moft decided manner, from a fenfe of fuperior convenience;, and refpeaing the articles of European drefs for which their fimple fancy or a love of novelty might be fuppofed to impel their choice,, they might be fo varied as to keep awake thofe prepofleffions till they become; habits, whofe calls muft be fupplied by Britifh manufaaures. The lxx . ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE The number of people to the Southward of Nootka Sound, as far as the latitude of 450 or 460, amounts at leaft to near fixty thoufand. The calculation is made from the number of villages, each of which contains from fix to nine hundred inhabitants. To the Northward of Nootka, as far as the latitude of 6i°, they are much more numerous; it may therefore be reafonably concluded, that the line of fea coaft on the Weftern fide of this Archipelago, without adverting to the Eaftern fide, poflefles upwards of an hundred thoufand people ; which, after all, forms no very great degree of population" for fuch an extenfive length of country. Something like a correa eftimate may, therefore, be made of the advantages that would arife from fupplying fuch a number of people with Britifh ma- nufaaures, by calculating the probable exports, which, in this early ftage of the North Weft American commerce, might be made from this country of coarfe woollens, iron, cutlery, manufaaured copper and tin ; which, in particular,, when worked up into the various articles in which it is commonly employed, would form an immediate, as well as a very confiderable export, as on feveral parts of the coaft it was found to be the favourite objea of the Indian market. It is, by no means, neceflary to obferve, that in proportion as the manners of thefe people improved, and their civilziation advanced, all thefe commercial articles would find an encreafing demand. The exports of America will confift of furs of the following fpecies • The fea-otter, the different kinds and qualities of which have been particularly defcribed in the voyage of the Felice ;—the beaver, marten, fable, river-otter, —called by the natives capuca,—the ermine, foxes of different kinds, and particularly that whofe fkin is of a jetty black; — grey, white and red wolves, wolvereens, marmots, racoons, bears, mountain-fheep, whofe fleece is Of extreme length and finenefs, with the common and the moofe-deer or elk. The J BETWEEN N. W. . AMERICA AND CHINA. Ixxi The fea-otter, though an amphibious animal, might, perhaps, have been •more correaiy clafled among the fea-furs; for it is the peculiar happinefs of this country, that the fea which wafhes its coafts, mares with the. land the plenty of commercial produce. The furred feal, fea-cow, fea-lion, the fpeckled feal and common feal abound there. Ginfeng might alfo become a very Valuable article of American export; for although it has not hitherto been found in great abundance in the vicinities of Nootka, the Northern parts, more particularly the fhores of Cook's River, produce it in inexhauftible plenty. The ginfeng of this part of America is far preferable to that of the Eaftern fide, and approaches nearer to that of China, which is univerfally confidered of a very fuperior quality to the beft ginfeng of European exportation. But the moft valuable branch of commerce, which is offered fpontaneoufly by the North Weft American Coafts, is the Whale Fifhery, which may be / carried on to any extent. As thofe fifh, both of the black and fpermaceti kind, are univerfally abundant in thofe feas, with other marine animals, ■ which yield an oil of a very fuperior quality. And here I fhall beg leave to offer fome obfervations on the probable advantages which may be derived to Great Britain from this fifhery, not only in the' Northern but the Southern Oceans ; the former abounding with the black whale,, and the latter with the fpermaceti fpecies. / Thefe Fifheries are of fuch extent, reaching from Cape Horn to the.-Line, /as, with that of the North Weft Coaft of America, to be capable of employ- Zing feveral thoufand tons of fhipping. Even in its infant ftate, one hundred I fail at leaft, each veffel having thirty men on board, might be employed in [ this valuable branch of commerce. Of a {hip's company, according to this regulation, I fhould fuppofe that twenty would be feamen, or people acquainted with the bufinefs of the fifhery, and that the remainder would be boys apprenticed, lxxii ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE ticed, or landmen, who are frequently received on board, and employed in thefe voyages: The number of feamen amounting in the whole to three thoufand. Nor can it be fuppofed that this commerce, conducted under the influence of Britifh liberty and the fpirit of Britifh merchants, would not e.ncreafe. Indeed, the acquifitions of it are fo favourable to our own manufkaures, and in fuch continual demand from foreign countries, that to fupply the home and foreign confumption of its feveral articles, would prove a moft advantageous extenfion of the trade and navigation of Great Britain. But another important benefit will refult alfo from thefe fifheries ; they willvery greatly enlarge that nurfery of feamen which may be confidered as the mine of Britifh ftrength and glory.— Nor do I hefitate to foretell, that if this branch of commerce is left free, and is not fuffered to be fhackled by chartered privileges and legal monopolies, that it will, in a very fhort time, make fuch returns, as to difcharge Government from the expenfive encouragements of drawbacks and bounties. It would be prefumption in me to recommend any fyftem of regulations for the due condua, controul and encouragement of thefe fifheries, when fuch abilities and commercial knowledge as is poffefled by Lord Hawkefbury, enlightens the proceedings of that branch of the adminiftration which appropriates its labour and attention to the trade of our country; but I fhall, neverthelefs, take the liberty to fuggeft, that each fhip employed m this commercial fervice, fhould be obliged to have on board fix or eight apprentices, who fhould be limited with refpea to age. If eight in number, four of them fhould not be more than ten or twelve years of age;—two others fhould not exceed fourteen years, and the remainder might be confined within the age of fixteen. The term of their apprenticefhip fhould not be extended beyond five years.—It would be needlefs to explain the utility and advantage of fuch an arrangement. The navigation of thefe feas is moft admirably adapted to form a fchool of maritime experience, while its peculiar fafety is equally calculated to encourage . mercantile fpeculation.—Nor fhould it be paffed by without obfervation, that fhips BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA. lxxiii' (Jiips employed in the fifhery or fur trade, may always depend upon fuch abundant fupplies of almoft every kind, as not only to furnifh a plenteous variety of that wholefome food, but alfo to become -an objea of commercial con- lideratibn, while the Sandwich Iflands offer a ftation for intermediate repofe, where health animates the gales, and every fpecies of refrefhment is to be found •On the fhores. The various articles of trade, both of an import and export nature, in this new region of commerce, which might be confidered as attending upon oUr entrance into it, have already been mentioned; at the fame time we ought to keep in view, as au objea of a great future advantage, thofe mines which are known to lie between the latitudes of 400 and.6o° North, and which may here- I after prove a moft valuable fource of commerce between America and China.— But to give them effea, as well as to forward other beneficial purpofes, eftablifhments muft be formed, for which the North Weft Coaft of America offers a mild climate and a fruitful foil, where grain of every fpecies may be : cultivated with a fmall portion of induftrious exertion, particularly in the vicinity of Nootka, and in the country of New Aloion. Such is the general account we have it in our power to communicate of the commerce of that part of America which has fo lately been unfolded to us. We fhall now proceed to difcover the conneaion it has hitherto formed with China, together with the profpea of opening a trading intercourfe with Japan j which, if revived, and there is no doubt of the poffibility of fuch an event, might, in due time, become an objea of the firft importance to the mercantile intereft of this country. The furs obtained by the feveral adventurers to the North Weft Coaft of America, have been carried to the Canton market, where they were fold at very high prices.—The circumftance of fupplying this market with American furs, has proved the means of opening a channel of trade between England K and. lxxiv ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE and China, for the Canadian and* Hudfon Bay furs, which had not hitherto been attempted.—Thefe furs alfo fold extremely well. The commerce between Great Britain and the Empire of China, is altogether of fuch importance, that an inveftigation of thofe caufes which operate to continue the balance of trade againft us, and which may lead to a difcovery of the means not only to diminifh that balance, but to turn it in our favour, will, I truft, be favourably received by the public ;. and, in a particular manner, by that great commercial body, the Honourable Eaft India Company.—It is, indeed, but juftice to declare, that much has. already been- done by them; at the fame time truth compels me to obferve, that much yet remains to be done, not only in,giving every poffible augmentation to the exports of this country, but in opening new channels of commerce, whenever and wherever opportunity offers to accomplifh fuch a defirable objea. In purfuing the general outline of this fubjea, and we do not profefs to be fo minutely informed as to engage in a minute difcuffion of it, we fhall clafs the commerce of China under the following heads: Firft. The trade between China and Ruffia, by land; in which may be included the North Weftern commerce by fea, as the principal ftaple commodities are chiefly furs, in which England participates, from the large quantity of the Canadian and Hudfon's Bay furs fent from this country to Ruffia, and from thence, by the Ruffian merchants, by a long and circuitous land carriage to Pekin. Secondly. The commercial conneaion between Great Britain and China. gn nations with the country powers It Thirdly. The commerce between forei; in India and China. "Jk BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA ANDCHltfA. Ixxv 'ft. is Hot neceflary for me, were it in my power, to defcribe the vaft extent of the Chinefe Empire, and the ftate of its prodigious population. It is fufficient to obferve that fuch a country, and fuch a people, would form a commercial alliance of the firft magnitude with Great Britain. The Englifh certainly enjoy the fat greater part of the import trade at Canton; but the whole European commerce, which, of courfe, involves our own, labours beneath very oppreffiye and encreafing difadvantages. Nor can I underftand upon what principle of found policy we continue to fubmit to the will and pleafure of the Chinefe government, in our commercial concerns with it. If we were to form our opinions of the general charaaer of the inhabitants of China from thofe who inhabit the banks of the Canton River, it would be doing them a great injuftice. A trading fea-port, which* offers little or no other communication than with Cuftom-houfe officers, brokers, and the inferior rank of tradefmen, does hot qualify the voyager to judge of the nation to which it belongs ; but, forming our opinion from thofe who have had opportunities of vifiting the interior parts of China, we are difpofed to believe that the Chinefe are a liberal, enlightened and- polifhed people, and that they profefs themfelves of fuch a charaaer. It cannot therefore be fuppofed, if an Ambafla- dor was fent to China from this country, with all the appropriate accompany- ments of fuch a charafter, that he would not be received with fuitable refpeft and dignity. Various are the oppreflions which afflia our commerce with this part of the Eaft, and it would require, perhaps, confummate fkill in the arts of negociatlon, as well as a complete knowledge of the commercial hiftory of China, and of the temper of the people, to bring any liberal arrangement of commerce between the two nations to a conclufion. The Chinefe are well acquainted with the power of Great Britain, and they regard it with very confiderable apprehenfion. I relate it as an incontrovertible faa, that ths' Hoppo or Vice- Roy of Canton, in the year 1789, in his ufual information to the Court at K 2 Pekin, lx3Cyi ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE Pekin, tranfmitted a falfe account of the European {hipping at his port. The encreafing number of them, particularly thofe of the Englifh nation, was rather.an alarming-circumftance to the minifterial officers at Canton ; and' had the Emperor been informed of it, they would have been fubjea to his dif- pleafure, from the fuppofed danger of fuffering fuch an afiemblage of foreign veffels. But they hufhed their own fears, and fatisfied their patriotic fcru- ples, by remitting the ufual revenues arifing from foreign trade to the Royal treafury, and configning the encreafed. colleaion, of duties to their own coffers. At this port, as if it were contrived to fhackle andopprefs the European- commerce, every tranfeaion, of a commercial nature, comes under the jurifi- diaion of a body of merchants, confiftiug of eleven perfons, or more,, who are named the Hung, or the Houang. On the arrival of a fhip at Canton, one of thefe merchants is appointed to condua all her commercial concerns. He is then termed the fecurity mer* chant, and every trading tranfaaion, relative to the veffel over which he is placed, entirely depends upon his controuling pleafure.—With this extraor* dinary authority, he poffeffes the power of arranging the trade of the cargo which he fuperintends, in any fhape that may beft anfwer his private ad* vantage. If, therefore, it fhould appear to be his intereft to prevent the imported articles from coming to an equitable market, he will, by no means, con- fider-the importer, but himfelf. For the native who wants to buy, and the ftranger who wants to fell, can have no communication, with each-other.—It is this ftrange oppreffive, intermediate official merchant, who aas for both, and to whofe arbitrary diaates both muft fubmit,. without any means of revifion or of appeal. While this fet of men remain in their prefent ftate of power, the imports can never come to a fair market, or the exports be reduced by ' competition to an equal ftandard. The - BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA. Jixviii The greater as well as inferior Mandarins or Cuftom-houfe officers, fubjea tSe Houang merchants, intheir turns, to heavy impofitions, for which the latter reimburfe themfelves, by levying contributions on- the European commerce. All goodsentered at Canton pay a very exorbitant duty In the firftinftance;— and if their owner fhould- exercife the power which he has of objeaing to the Houang merchant's price, he neverthelefs cannot re-embark a fingle article of them: as-merchandize once landed at the port of Canton, can never be removed from thence, but by the native trader who may purchafe it. A greater check on the fpirit of commerce cannot be well" conceived than fuch a tyrannical regulation- The duties, at this port, have long, beenin a ftate of progreffive encreafe, and have, within thefe few years, advanced to 50 per cent.—The aaual amount of them being no longer paid into the Royal treafury, for the rea- fons already mentioned, the Mandarins are become more and more" avaricious,, in proportion as. the revenue from the duties encreafes-; and,, as they are impofed at the pleafure of the Hoppo or Vice-Roy, he contrives to accumulate an immenfe fortune during his adminiftration ; which, however, he is obliged to fhare, in.fome degree, with the minifters at Pekin, in order to prevent- a.difcovery of his. extortions.on the Europeans at Canton.. All fhips on their firft arrival, pay a certain, meafurement; which is calculated by their tonnage, amounting to an heavy fum, and, within a fewyears, has been greatly augmented. A fhip belonging to the Eaft India Company, pays, I believe, from JT. 800 to f.1200. All goods muft be conveyed-on fhore by the boats of the country, fo. that continual robberies are committed on the cargoes fent for the fhip to Canton,- which is diftant about fourteen miles,; and ftrange as it may feem, no remedy is to be found, or punifhment infliaed upon, fuch open injuftice. The Houang man is the only perfon to whom an European* i*K*itf ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE European has accefs; fo that the Foreign merchant is left entirely to the mercy of an agent whofe intereft it is to opprefs him the moft. All Europeans are prohibited from entering the city of Canton ; and if any fhould perfift in paying it a clandeftine vifit, as fome have done, they are feverely bambooed and turned back again. The Chinefe call an European a Fanqui. It muft, however, be obferved, that the Idea of the Houang merchants being fecurity for each other, is entirely fallacious;—for thefe commercial guardians are fometimes known to become bankrupts, and many Europeans have fuffered feverely by the failure of them. I have fome reafon to imagine that the debts due to Britifh merchants, and on which account Captain Panton in the Race- horfe, was fent to Canton, are not yet liquidated; and which, being incurred by the failure of a very confiderable Houang merchant, evidently'proves that this body of men are not fecurity for'- each other. This debt amounted to fome hundred thoufand pounds, part of'which has been paid by inftallments, which have been in a courfe of payment for the fpace of ten years, without intereft.—This money has, however, in faa been paid by the Europeans themfelves ; as, in order to difcharge the debt, an additional duty has been laid on all European articles, which ftill continues : and as Great Britain pofleffes by far the greateft fhare of the China trade, fhe fuffers proportionably in thefe heavy and accumulating impofitions. This embafly did not greatly enhance the confequence of the Englifh nation in the opinion of the Chinefe.—Lord Anfon and Captain Panton flood in a very different view of refpea and importance,—not that I mean to be understood as if the latter gentleman was deficient in any of thofe requifites which could give confequence or effea to his commiffion;. on the contrary, he pof- feffed them all,-but he was not, by any means, properly fupported, or cloathed with I J A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, &fr. bx« with that official confequence, neeeflary to imprefs the China people with a due refpea for, and awe of the country from which he came. It is indeed a very evident, as well as mortifying proof, that the Englifh name does not poffefs that confequence with the Chinefe, which it merits in every country and corner of the globe, from their condua towards the Eaft India Company's fervants, who conftantly remove to the Portuguefe city of Macao for feveral months of the year. In the feafon of ^89, on the arrival of the Company's fhip In China, it became neeeflary for the fupercargoes to remove, as ufual, to Canton ; on which the accuftomed application was made to the Chinefe for the common formality of perroiffion.—This was, however, peremptorily refufed, on the pretence that this application fhould be made through the Portuguefe, who refufed to exert themfelves; and thereby the Portuguefe governor of Macao had the power of throwing veryconfiderable impediments in the way of the Britifh commerce. This dif- agreeable bufinefs was, however, at length fettled, but not without confiderable delay, and, in all probability, fome extortion.—But during this oppreffive interval, the valuable fhips of the Eaft India Company lay at anchor in theBocca Tigris, or at Warhpoa, as they arrived, and without being able to procure the ufual re- frefhments. Indeed the enormous fums conftantly.paid for the removal of the Company's fervants to and from Canton, from whence they are forced by the Chinefe, is not only a great commercial enormity, but a degrading compliance on the part of Great Britain. The Portuguefe alfo, in this diftant fettlement, affume a language and con- ' dua to Britifh fubjeas, which cannot be at all reconciled with the comparative ftate of the ftrength, power and importance of their.refpeaive nations.—It is no uncommon thing at Macao, for the Company's fervants to be imprifoned and otherwife ill-treated on the flighteft pretences* and obliged to pradife fub- miffions which the fervile avarice of commerce can alone induce them to fuffep, while it filences the refentment of thofe who employ them. * From te ACCOUNT OF T-HE T'R AD *E From all thefe circumftances the conclufion is at once forcible and evident,— that the trade between Great Britain and China fhould be arranged on an equal and refpeaable eftablifhment.—Nor, if the proper means were employed, would ftcha deniable objea be fo difficult to accomplifli as is generally imagined. fIt is not to be fuppofed that theinfant trade of the North Weft Coaft of America to China efcaped thofe depreffing arrangements which narrow the advantages and difgrace the fpirit of the long eftablifhed and fuperior channels •of commerce with this part of the Eaftern world.—We felt and execrated the inconveniences of them ; but ftill a profpea of confiderable advantage Unfolds itfelf to the views of a liberated.commerce, which would juftify .any encourage- jnent from this country. 'No communication had as yet taken place between the Ruffian Kamfchadale and Siberian Provinces with China, but by land ; and that intercourfe having been interrupted for many years, in confequence of difputes which arofe, and 'have never been fettled between the courts ofPeterfburg and Pekin,—it became a matter of contemplation to have conneaed, in a .great degree, the commerce of the North Weft Coaft of America and thefe provinces with that of China and Japan.—If fuch a projea had been carried into effeft, it would have produced very beneficial confequences to this country; as her manufaaures, inftead of being fent through the empire of Ruffia, by way of Peterlburg, and from .thence into Siberia and Kiafcha, would have been imported immediately by fea, and the furs of thofe countries received in barter; which, with the Noith Weft American furs, would have been fold at Canton, and the proceeds, from the natural channels of commerce, paid without compunaion into the Engliflvtreafury there, which would tend toleffen the exports of bullion from this country. By this trade, Great Britain might have encreafed her exports of broad cloth, coarfe woollens, cottons, linens, hardware, and her tin and copper in all BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA. Ixxxi all the variety of articles into which thofe metals are manufaaured ; for which would be received, as before obferved, furs of all the various and valuable kinds with which that part of the world abounds. The quantity of exports muft have been very confiderable to fupply the Ruffian provinces ; and fupply- ing them by this mode would prove the means of beating out of the market thofe French woollens and ironmongery with which it is now fupplied ;—as it cannot be fuppofed that the inhabitants would not prefer the folid and lafting manufaaures of England to the flight cloths and brittle hardwares of France. The confideration of this part of the Northern commerce naturally forces upon our attention the neceffity of opening the Northern provinces of China, as well as the kingdom of Japan, in order to extend this chain of commercial intercourfe. Such an arrangement would open an inftant and extenfive channel for Britifh manufaaures, particularly thofe of tin and copper, more efpecially the former; the exports of which being of the firft importance to this country, we confider as a fubjea that demands adiftina difcuffion, which it will receive in the fucceeding part of thefe obfervations. The prefent excluflon of the European nations from all the ports of the Chinefe empire, except Canton, is a ferious difadvantage to Great Britain.— While from the arbitrary regulations of the Chinefe government refpeaing European commerce, our exports, befides the heavy duties to which they are fubjea, are taken by the purchafers at a price fixed by themfelves. The fame tyrannical and difhoneft principle operates to enhance the price of every article we receive in return, and is the caufe that fo much bad tea is imported into this country. It would be equally idle and impertinent to obferve on the prevailing habits of all ranks of Britifh fubjeas for the beverage produced by this oriental plant. It has long ceafedto be a luxury among the great; and is become a L kind 1 ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE kind of neoeiftry of life eVen among the poor.—Though produced ■& the moft iftant quarter of the globe, its ufe is fo naturalized to this country, as to be an article of general conifumption, and produaive of a very confiderable pub* lie r If, therefore, it is a national objea to procure the teas and manufaaures of China of better qualities and at a cheaper rate,—fome method fhould be- devifed by the Britifh government to procure the Northern ports of that country to be opened to us, as well as to' emancipate our trade from the vexatious bondage beneath' which it groans in the only Chinefe port which our fhips- are allowed to enter. To effea this,:-—and I have not the leaft doubt but it- might be effeaed,—it is humbly fubmitted, whether it might not be proper td> fend an embaffy direaiy to Pekin, with fuch a degree of confequence and fplen- dour attached to it, as becomes the reprefentative of a Britifh monarch bearing his credentials to the fplendid court of a great Oriental fbvereigtt. The opening the door of thefe ports, by •encreafing and improving the means- of compLunication between the two countries, would produce the greateft adjutages to each; and, wrtfoofat enumerating the particular benefits which would be derived to our own, I fhall jeft ©bferv6,**aaf :by the exports of our tin alone, commerce would add an Artificial mine of national wealth to thofe which nature has already beftowed on Great Britain. In confequence of fuch an arrangement, the hitherto little known, butpolifhed and wealthy kino-dom of Corea '■ • This herb, which is fuppofed to poffefs qualities of a pernicious tendency by ■ writers, is', on the contrary, conffdered in China as replete with medicinal virtues, country where it grows is univerfal and continual; and a doubt of its falutary nati treated there, as. ari&ig from the moft inveterate folly, orthegrafleft ignorance.—A)n China will tell yr- -'-—' " 1 be inhabitant o£ — .-- depreffion.—It fhould, however, be obferved, that the black teas only are In °m , fe among the Chifcefe ; and that the green and bloom teSs-akli, %-fereat decree if n«t , w!!? un-v&aured for foreign markets. S g ' * *** "l**0*** BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA. lxxxiii Corea, would be open to the Britifh adventurer: and, independent of the empire of Japan, we know not how to exprefs our idea of the vaft and inexhauftible fources of commercial advantage that would be gained by purfuing the fyftem •which-is the objea of this memoir tofuggeft and to recommend. The fineft teas are produced by the Northern provinces;—we fhould therefore receive them from thence free from that adulteration which the avarice of the Houang merchant not only allows but encourages. The raw filk of thofe countries would alfo come to our market of the fineft quality. The kingdom of Corea would receive, and eagerly receive, the fame manu- faaures as China, with this important addition,—that in fo cold a climate, they would have our woollens direaiy from ourfelves, inftead of the light French cloths which make their way to them by the circuitous route of Pekin from Ruffia, or more immediately from Canton. But on account of the very Itygh price of woollen goods, occafioned by the expensive mode of importing them, thefe people have recourfe to thick printed cottons, which, after all, are by no means fufficient to protea them from the feverity of their winters. This country produces the fineft tea, but no filk. The Coreans receive ithowever from China, and return it thither to great advantage, worked up into filks and da- mafks, of a very fine and rich fabric. It is here alfo that the curious failing waggon is to be feen, which is a very ferviceable machine in the low and marfhy grounds towards the Corean fea. ' The empire of Japan may be eonfidered as a fource of commerce diftina from that of China ; but it is, neverthelefs, open to the fame fpirit of commercial adventure,—contains fimilar refources, and promifes to be a moft profitable mart for Britifh manufaaures. The communication which one of the fhips captured by the Spaniards at Nootka Sound, had with this country, in "her voyage to', the North Weft Coaft of America, proves, in the fulleft man^r, that the inhabitants would gladly enter into a trading intercourfe with us. It was, indeed, L 2 intended Ixxxiv ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE intended to have fent a fhip from Canton in the prefent year 1790, had not the North Weftern commerce been interrupted, and for a time, at leaft, deftroyed by the fhips of his Catholic Majefty. From very refpeaable authority we are affined, that furs fell there at an immenfe price, while the country, fciimate, and - inhabitants will warrant a more than probable conjeaure, that fuch a commercial intercourfe would prove highly advantageous to this kingdom. China exports thither a few broad cloths, filks, cottons, fugar, hardware,, furs, and tin in blocks, which fetches there almoft the price of "filveiy as they ufe it not only for all culinary purpofes, but to form thofe veffels- and ornaments which they employ in their religious ceremonies.—In return for thefe articles, the Chinefe receive gold, fine teas, and pure copper. But, upon the whole, the trade is not very confiderable between thefe countries. It is well known that the only European nation which enjoys a commercial conneaion with the Japanefe, are the Dutch. Four Dutch fhips are annually difpatched thither from Batavia, and each of them pays an hundred thoufand dollars for the privilege of this profitable traffic; of which a very adequate idea may be formed, when it will bear the previous import of fuch an enormous fum.—The Dutch are too fenfible of the atfvantages of this monopoly not ro clothe the whole in all poffible fecrecy, or to colour it with every kind of fallacious defcription. But howpver ignorant we may be of their particular imports, exports, and mode of trade, we cannot but know that it is extremely advantageous to them, and would, confequently, prove of equal, if not fuperior benefit to us. It may not be improper to add, that there is every reafon to fuppofe the navigation to and from Japan to be a very fafe one when, undertaken at particular feafons. The Chinefe alfo engage in a traffic between the Philippines and Japan in the: South. They import from the former wrought filks, gold, copper, and iron ; and BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND. CHINA. Ixxxr and carry to the latter, fpices, pepper, filver, and fugar This trade is very profitable to themfelves, and extremely detrimental to the fubjeasof Spain. If a Britifh fettlement could beeftablifhed on one of the Southernmoft of the Corean ifles, it would facilitate the intercourfe between Great Britain and thefe parts of the globe.—Nor would the difficulty of compleating fuch a plan oc- eafion any uncommon rifk, or demand more than common exertions ; as we are given to underftand that the natives are a mild, humane, and poliflied race of people, who would not hefitate- to give the Britifh voyager a moft welcome reception. The praaicability of fuch. a colony, need not require any other argument, when it is known that on the Northernmoft of thefe iflands the Ruffians have formed a fettlement^ Befides the general Britifh exports,—to which advantageous circumftance we are fo continually obliged to recur,—the opening thefe channels would give new liability to the fur-trade, and enable us to annihilate, in a great meafure, this profitable branch of the Ruffian commerce. The Ruffian fettlements on Cook's River, down the Coaft. of America to the Southward, and on that chain of iflands called the Fox Iflands, for the fole purpofe of colkaing furs, together with the encouragement given by the Emprefs Catherine to all adventurers in as well as the proteaion fhe holds forth to merchants who regularly profecute the trade between China and her dominions, by way of Kiafcha, as fet forth with equal accuracy and ability by Mr. Cox, in his account of the Ruffian difcoveries, are circumftances which difeover, in the fulleft manner, the opinion- which the court of Peterfburg entertains.of this commerce.—One branch of this trade,—tile fupplying China with the Canadian or Hudfon's Bay furs,—we hope is already removed to this country, and that they will no longer find their way thither by the intermediate aid of the Ruffian merchants.. It hcxxvi ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE It may be faid, without 'ahyfeM> 4>$ CDiDttadiaio», that this advantage has been obtained by the imp^ortation of the North Weft Amerkaai fiars into Canton : and there can be as little doubt that the continuance of fuch imports wffl" fefve to augment it*—The reputation of the. fea-otter skins brought no ineonfiderable body of the Northern Chinefe and Pekin merchants, to Canton, 'a port which they had never before vifited.,. and' at the diftance of neatiOBe thoufand miles from the places of their refidence.—Yet notwithftanding Che length of this commercial j^rney, they found it- anfwer to their entire fetis- faaion, from being able to obtain the fame fpecies of fuis which they, had been accuftomed to purchafe at Kiafcha, at a price fo much beloW the ufual rate of that market. They arrived at CantpnJadea with teas, filk and iv&tj; and took back in return, furs and broad-cloths.—The cloths imported by the Eaft India Company, were dlftinguifhed by their particular preference and admiration ; nor did they hefitate to acknowledge their great fuperiority over any woollens they had ever received by the way of Kiafcha*.: Furs form the principal and favourite drefs of the inhabitants of the Northern provinces of China ; and thofe of the rareft kind and the higheft prices are eagerly purchafed by them.—From five hundred to a thoufand -dollars-and even a larger fum, are frequently given for a fingle fuit of this precious cloathing. The skin of the fea-otter, from the thicknefs of its pile and the length of its fur, forms too cumberfome an habiliment for the people of the Southern d vinces ; they prefer, in general, the Canadian and Hudfon's Bay furs ; but ftill fuch as can afford it, feldom fail of having a cape of the fea-otter's skin their coats, though perhaps at the.extravagant price of fix dollars.—On con- fidering, therefore, the prodigious population of China, and fuppofing^ the fur I trade to be carried on under proper regulations, the inaccuracy of an o * " which has been advanced with fome degree of plaufibility, that the Chinefe market may be overftocked borivwith Canadian, Hudfon's Bay, and the North BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA" AND CHINA. Jxxxvii Weft American furs, muft appear evident to the moft tranfient reffeaion.— On the contrary, it is our decided -©pinion, that the fea-otter skins which have been imported to China, finee the commencement of the North Weft American-trade, have not proved fufficient to anfwer the demands of the fingle province of Canton.—Even there, the cold will often render a fur drefs neeeflary ; more particularly as the Chinefe are minutely attentive in proportioning their cloathing to the temperature of the moment, whatever it may be ; and frequently, in the courfe of the fame day, add to or diminifrr the number or warmth of their garments, as from the varying circumftances of the at- mofphere, &c. the air may demand a cooler or a warmer covering- Having thus- ftated fuch information concerning the commerce of the North Weft Coaft of America and the Northern parts of China, as well as the relative trade of Ruffia, as has been obtained by our experience and enquiries, we fhall proceed to ftate a few particular circumftances relative to the foreign* commerce of Canton and the country trade. Thefollowing is a Lift of the'fhips of different nations in the River of Canton,, in the year 1789 ; which will give a very precife idea of rhe prefent fuperiority of the Britifh trade over that of aH'pther European nations. List of Ships belonging io the Englifh Eaft India Company, at Wampoa. [ansfield — King George Joh Sherwood Ocean — Lafcelles — Ric Valentine — Toh Nottingham — Lord Macartney — Tan, esHayAnderf011 Duke of Buccleugh Sulivan- — Ro Rockingham — . Toh n Atkinfon Blanchard Pitt — Earl Wycombe «■» Joh n William Wood. ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE Lift of Englifh Country Ships trading to China, 1789. From Bengal and the Malay Coaft to Benga •Gangavar New Triumph • Milford Shaw Ardefeer ;V-iaoria Snow Boddam — Reyal'Charlotte SullimaneyGrab Carrier General Meadows yard Macklow John Robertfon James WHfon ' Sultan — James Callender Fier Refoal Mucky — George Milford N Fiez Allum — John Swaine md Mad> From China to the N. W. Coaft of Amer cefs Royal — Thomas Hudfon A Lift of Foreign Ships trading to China in 1789: SHIPS NAMSS. Dutch. Meeryk —• Delft Chrifteffel Columbus Schagen _ Maria Cornelia Muller Pieterfeen Stokbroo Modderman French. Dauphin — Duval tfaveretrb King of Denmark Danifti. — Torilow American. 1 1 1 - Richard Proler Samuel Howell - Benjamin Carpenter James Magee John Aftimead Federalift Light Horf< Bom Jefu s Alem — Jofo Dias de Souza Marquis de Anjug a — Coflodio de Arevec Campeles — Antonio de Arayo BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA. ' kxxix The advantages which muft refult to the manu figures of Great Britain, from the encreafe of the China trade, is one of thofe truths whofe evidence Wants no fupport. Its tendency to encreafe the nurfery of our marine ftrength, muft be acknowledged with equal juftice. The Englifh {hipping at Canton gave employment, on an average, in the year 1789, to near two thoufand officers and feamen. ■ It has indeed been objeaed, that the very great" export of bullion from this country, abfolutely neeeflary to purchafe the homeward bound inveftments, Is, in faa, a national difadvantage, which the accompanying exports of our nianufa&ures by no means indemnify. This unfavourable reprefentation of the China commerce, has, I muft own, too much foundation. But it is well known to have undergone a very confiderable change in the very point on which thofe who are difpofed to condemn it, reft their objeaions. The exports of bullion have been for fome years, and are now in a gradual ftate of decreafe, while the exports of Britifh manufaaures are in a proportionable ftate of augmentation : and if we add, which furely may be done upon the moft fatisfaaory grounds, the new arrangements in trade of the Canadian and Hudfon's Bay furs, and the added commerce of thofe of the North Weft Coaft of America, we are juftified in expeaing, from the wife adminiftration of the prefent Eaft India Company, that the period is at no great diftance when the balance of trade between Great Britain and China may be turned in favour of our own country. Of our exports to that part of the Eaft, broad cloths have encreafed in a very extraordinary proportion, and the Company now fend thither a very large fum in that ftaple article. In 1789, feveral thoufand bales were exported' by them. The fur merchants who come down from the Northern pro* vinces of China, take off great quantities of this cloth, and it is in an encreafing demand in every part of that vaft empire. Camlets, fhalloons, long ells, &c. with the coarfer woollens, have alfo very confiderably encreafed as articles of China trade. Copper may be alfo added to the augmenting exports.' tG ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE from this country to the fame quarter of the globe. The manner m which the ' Company have it man'ufaaured, in fmall bars, gives it an advantageous re- femblance to the Japan copper. Of this very valuable metal Cornwall produces the fineft in Europe; and as the Dutch have not lately imported any from Japan, on account of its advanced price, the Eaft India Company have the fame profpea of encreafing gaio from copper as from tin, as they are able to underfell the Japanefe in their own market. But a new and very fafhlonable article of the China market is tin, which will be found to be annually adding a very important proportion to the exports of the Eaft India Company. The country at large, and the county of Cornwall in particular, .are very much indebted to Mr. George Unwin of the Royal Navy, for the difcovery and introduaion of this valuable branch of the prefent China trade, when he was employed in the Company's fervice, and which may now be confidered as a ftaple article, from whence the Britifh commerce will derive a very folid, and, as I truft, a lafting advantage.. To that gentleman I am particularly indebted for much valuable information on this fubjea ; and whatever individual or general advantage proceeds from what I may call this new current of trade, it is to the indefatigable and commercial "£<&1 of Mr. Unwin that Great Britain owes her acknowledgements. It was, indeed, at a critical moment for the county of Cornwall, when this unexpeaed channel was opened for the confumption of tin.—The trade for this article was, at this time, on a very rapid decline; the mining parifhes began to experience the greateft dif- trefs, and the demand for it in the European markets was greatly decreafed, on account of the late war, and the rifing troubles of Europe ; fo that in the fhort fpace of nine months, tin became reduced one-fifth in value,, which was a clear lofs, befides the attendant inconvenience and diftrefs, of £.40,000 per annum to the county of Cornwall: nor did the future profpea offer any thing like en- c»uragement or confolation to that refpeaable body of men who compofe the propriety BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA. Sfel propriety of the mining eftates in that valuable province. But the China commerce has revived their hopes, and I truft will not only re-eftablifh the original confequence of thispart of Great Britain, but give it new vigour and encreafing opulence. We feel, indeed, the greateft fatesfoaion, in ftjftrng our expeaatious m this fubjea, that we do not proceed merely upon conjeaures, however probable, but on faas, as we truft, decifive of the returning and encreafing profperity of this ancient fource of Britifh wealth. During the long period the Eaft India Company" have traded to China, the whole of their exports, including every commercial article, have not amounted to HMffe than £. ioo,©oo, 'till within the laft five years ; and in that time, the average expolfs in their fhips, in thirteen months, or two feafons, from Cornwall alone, have amounted to 2000 tons of tin, value £. 130,000, befides her fhare of copper. The accounts received from China this feafon, are alfo of the moft favourable nature, and encourage the India Company to look to very confidferaMe advantages from this branch of their exportation. The "annual confumption of tin, at this time, in the China market, is from three to four thoufand tons, fupplied by the Dutch, in the country trading veflels and Chinajunks from the Malay Iflands.— But we truft fuch meafures may be purfued by the proprietors of the tin mines, united, as it were, by a commercial union with the Eaft India Company, that they may in time, and we hope at no very diftant period, poflefs themfelves of the China market for the exclufive fale of that valuable metal, which has for fo many ages formed the principal wealth of their country. The ufes to which tin is applied in China, are of great variety ;—among others, it is become an article of fuperftition and religious ceremony, a cir- cumftance which cannot fail to create a very confiderable confumption.—The merchant who buys this metal, re-fells it to the gold-beaters, who manufaaure it into leaf, which they difpofe of to the priefts, who, after the ceremonies of M 2 con- jxcii ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE confecration, pafte it in pieces on a kind of cartoon paper, near the fize of a ,card, and configu them to fhops, where they are to be bought in-every part of the empire.—At the rifing of the fun, certain periods of the day, and the clofe of the evening, the Chinefe are feen making what they call chin, chin, to their Gods or Jofles, by burning thefe papers, and making obeifance to the Weft; as the devotees are more or lefs ardent, they bum a fmaller or greater quantity of thefe papers.—The confumption of tin, therefore, in this article alone, muft be very great. The river of Canton is fuppofed to be inhabited, if I may fo exprefs myfelf by between fixty and feventy thoufand people, who live on the water, all of whom expend their daily quota of thefe paper offerings. The population of China is not within our knowledge, but if we may judge from the calculation juft related, and which we believe is pretty accurate, the number of inhabitants in the empire at large is fo great, that there can be but little doubt, if we could get an entire pofleffion of the China market, that there would be a ready fale for all the tin which Cornwall could furnifh for exportation. The Chinefe alfopoffefs the art of extraaing filver from that metal; and not only employ it in the compofition of which they make their utenfils for culinary and other domeflic, as well as manufaauring purpofes, but alfo in "making very large quantities of a white metal called Tutenage, which they export in the I country trading veffels to all parts of India.—It cannot, therefore, be fuppofed, that the Eaft India Company will not give a fpirited encouragement to the exports of a commodity, which by promoting the Interefts of the county of Cornwall, and encreafing their own commercial revenues, will add to the g ral opulence of the nation. s gene- It is not, however, in China alone that tin, under proper regulations, will find an advantageous market.-Bengal will, in future, be able to take off a very confiderable portion, at a very good price ; the demand of that place being BETWEEN N.W.AMERICA AND CHINA. xciii at. this time, equal to one-fourth of the annual produce of Cornwall, which will be difperfed through the interior parts of India ; and if the Ottoman commerce fhould be thrown open to us,. an added and very confiderable confumption of this metal will be the certain confequence.—Even from Bengal and Bombay, tin has found its way into the Weftern parts of Perfia; and the exportation of it might be ftill further promoted, from the communication We have with that country by way of Surat.—And within thefe three years, Cornifh tin, which had been carried from England to Turkey, notwithftanding the heavy duties with which it was charged in paffing through the Grand Seignior's dominions, was feen felling as a favourite article of fale at an auclion of the public caravans.—Indeed it is well known that the greater part of the Afiatic nations are as well acquainted with the value of this precious commodity of our country as the natives of China, The Chinefe have ufually received their tin by the Englifh and Dutch country fhips, and fome fmall quantities by their own junks ; and though the opium of Bengal leflened the quantity of bullion which muft otherwife have been exported from thence to the Malayan nation, for the purchafe of this effential commodity; yet ftill there remained a confiderable balance againft the European fettlements in this branch of their commerce.—It fhould alfo be obferyed that the Malayans do not work their mines, but leave that important bufinefs, as well as the refining of the ore, to Chinefe fettlers among them. The Dutch Eaft India Company contrive, witl, their nation, to derive a very confiderable reveii fultanof Banee, who refides at Balam-bangan, 01 is within fight of the former place, is obliged to hundred tons of tin, at a low rate, which is freighted to Batav he mercantile fagacity of from this article. The le ifland of Sumatra, and mi fh them with fo many fmall vef- fels, and from thence 'tranfported to China in their fhips, whei a profitable fale, and faves the lofing export of bullion. it meets Many L .jKiv ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE Many objections have been raifed to the exportation of tin to China from certain prejudices fuppofed to be entertained by the Chinefe againft the ComWhm tin, on account of its. not being found fo malleable as that obtained from the Malayans—Aauated by a moft laudable zeal for the particular interefts of .■ the county of Cornwall, as well as for the general extenfion of the Britifh • commerce, Mr. Unwin undertook to examine into the foundation of thefe ob- - jeaions, and accordingly made repeated experiments on the comparative excellence of the Britifh and Malayan tin ; when it appears by the certificates of the workmen employed, as well as the tin leaf in that gentleman's poffeffion, - that the. produce of Cornwall is equal, if not fuperior, in every -refpea, to that of the Malayans. — Of this he gave a convincing proof, by having beaten a pound of the former to a- quantity of leaf fufficient to cover thirty-five fquare yards. In confequence of his experiments, the Eaft India Company not only fent out the iaft feafon, feveral books of the Britifh tin-leaf, as fpecimens, to .China and their fettlenients in India,.but a proper quantity of the metal itfelf, in order to give the utmoft encouragement in their power to the exportation. of tin from this country. The export of bullion has been a moft grievous burthen on our Oriental commerce, and it is the .firft duty of thofe who are engaged in the admihi- ftration of it, to diminifh, and if poffible, to annihilate fuch an anti-commercial .oppreffion.—The former might be accomplifhed, indeed, by narrowing the prefent extent of the China commerce ;—hut here the remedy would be worfe than the difeafe ; as by leffening the importation of tea, now become almoft a neeeflary of life among all claffes of people in this country, it would re-open the door fo wifely fhut againft the fmuggling of that article, and introduce, inftead of the wholefome produce of China, thofe adulterated teas which are' equally injurious to the revenues of the country, as they are prejudicial to the- health of its inhabitants. The latter is only to be obtained by thofe meafores which will force our manufactures and produce into China and other parts of the Eaft; nor have we the leaft doubt, but that if they were once received '3 J the BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA. xc* the export of bullion thither,—that mifchief of our Oriental trade,—would* in a fliort'time, be greatly counteraaed, and perhaps entirely fupprefled. Thefe are objeas which it will not furely be confidered as prefumption lit. us to recommend to the ferious confideration ef the legiftatwre, and as we fhould hope, to be followed up by the aaive exertions of the grand commercial fpirit of this country. They would heighten the flourifhing ftate of our manufaaures,—give added ftrength to our maritime power,—and which is no trifling concern, though it may not be a fubjea of general confideration, ■ reftore profperity to the county of Cornwall, which it is not only the intereft, but eflential to the honour of England to maintain, as that corner of her territory was, as it were, the cradle of her infant commerce; and from- whence fhe firft derived, at the diftance of many ages, a commercial charaaer among the nations of the world.* I fhall only add, as it feems to be a link in that chain of commerce which it is the office of thefe pages, however imperfeaiy, to enforce,—that Providence, by permitting Great Britain to make a difcovery of the Sandwich Ifles, feems to have intended that theys fhould become a part of herfelf.—The fituation, climate, and produce of thefe iflands, may be made to aafwer very important commercial purpofes ; befides, the inhabitants, area brave and gm$r; rous race of people, fufceptible of the higheft mental cultivation, and worthy of fharing, as they are already ambitious to fhare, the fate enjoyed by Britifh fubjeas.—The well direaed induftry, and aflured fidelity of half a million of people, would furely add to the grandeur and profperity of the Britifh Empire. * I fhall not enlarge farther on the fubjeft of tin at this time ;.but I flatter myfelf, with the affiftance of Mr. Donnithorne, the public agent for the county of Cornwall, whofe zeal and abilities in the fervice of it are fo juftly acknowledged, and his friend Mr. Unwin, to whofe commercial information, and indefatigable attention, that county is under fuch very peculiar obligations, I fhall fhortly be enabled to make- fome propofals to the gentlemen of Cornwall refpefting this valuable branch of commerce, which may not be deemed altogether unworthy their attention. In the Inti ERRATA. rVoY; :, page 2 «3ofd ), for $oolbs. read Solbs. Page 164, line 13, /or us difcover, ratf for 172, line 24, />r be rarrf by. 173, line 16, for 30th July, read 13th July. 187, line 7, /or reafon fuppofe, read reafon to fuppofe. line 12, for as far our power, read as far as our po 303, line 21, June 8, for latitude 56* 20', read 56° 26'. 304, line 8, for June 10th rW 9th. —— fine 17, for 205° 36'Eaft longitude on the nth, rta line 22, for the 12th read the 1 ith; and for latitude 30J, line 18, forthe 13th, readthe 12th. 306, line 2, for 14th, rW 13th. , line 22, for 16th, read itfb. 307, line 2, for 17th, «Wi6th. 322, line 2, the 4th of Auguft omitted, and that miltalte c line 9,/or Tianna's Bay, read Tianna's Roads. 325, line 11, for 59° 19' N. read56° 19' N. 355. line IS. /<"• *9° 4' N- «** '9° 4i' N. 356, line 12, /or 300 21', «arf20° 21'. I ||| £%? latitudes and longitudes read as theywere kept by the Reckoning s but in the CHARTS as they were inferred by correct Observations and the lunar method of finding the longitude at fea. VOYAGES a oi V O Y G E S TO THE NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, In the Years 1788 and 1789, &c. CHAP. I. Preparations for the Voyage.—Tianna, a Prince of the Ifland Atooi, and other Natives of the Sandwich Isles embark. — Character of Tianna.—Complement of the Crew of both Ships.—Quantity ofCattle, &c. embarked for the Sandwich Isles.—Departure of the Felice and Iphigeni a from China. IN the month of January 1788, in conjunaion with feveral Britifh merchants refident in India, I purchafed and fitted out two veffels, named the Felice and the Iphigenia : the former was of 230 tons burthen, and the latter of 200. They were calculated, in every refpea, for their deftined voyage, being good failors, copper-bottomed, and built with fuflkient ftrength to refift the tempeftuous weather fo much to be apprehended in the Northern Pacific Ocean, during the winter feafon. A It VOYAGES TO THE It was originally intended that they fhould have failed from China the beginning of the feafon, but the difficulty of procuring a fufficient quantity of flores neeeflary for the voyage, delayed the fhips till the 20th of this month, when they were completely equipped and ready for fea. One of the fhips was deftined to remain out a much longer time than; the other. It was intended, that at the clofe of the autumn of this year,, fhe fhould quit the coaft of America, and fteer to the Sandwich Iflands,.. for the purpofe of wintering there ; fhe was then to return to America,, in order to meet her confort from China, with a fupply of neeeflary ftores and refrefhments, fufficient for the eftablifhing faaories, and extending the plan of commerce.in which we had engaged. H The crews of thefe fhips confifted of Europeans and China-men, with; a larger proportion, of the former. The Chinefe were, on this occafion,. fhipped as an experiment:—they have been generally efteemed an hardy,, andinduftrious, as well as ingenious race of people ; they live on fifh and rice, and, requiring but low wages, it was a matter alfo of oeconomical confederation to employ them; and during the whole of the voyage there, was every reafon to-be fatisfied with their fervices.—If hereafter, trading pofts fhould be eftablifhed on the American coaft, a colony of thefe men. would be a very important acquifitioiu. The command of the Iphigenia was given to Mr. Douglas, an? officer of confiderable merit, who was. well acquainted with the coaft of America, and, on that account, was the moft proper perfon to be entrufted with the charge of condnaing- this commercial expedition. The crew contained artificers, of various denominations, among whom . were Chinefe fmiths and carpenters, as well as European artizans; forming, in the whole, a complement of forty mem The NORTH WE|T COAST OF AMERICA. The crew of the Felice was compofed of the fame ufeful and neeeflary 177J clafles of people, and amounted to fifty men :—this fhip was commanded JAKUAI by myfelf. A much greater number of Chinefe folicited to enter into this fervice than could be received ; and fo far did the fpirit of enterprize influence them, that thofe we were under the necefllty of refuting, gave the moft unequivocal marks of mortification and difappointment.—From the many who offered themfelves, fifty were feleaed, as fully fufficient for the purpofes of the voyage: they were, as has been already obferved, chiefly handicraft-men, of various kinds, with a fmall proportion of failors who had been ufed to the junks which navigate every part of the Chinefe feas. In a voyage of folong continuance, and fuch various climates, very feri- ous and natural apprehenfions were entertained of the inconvenienciesand dangers arifing from the feurvy, that cruel fcourge of maritime life. Every precaution therefore that humanity or experience could fuggeft, was taken to prevent its approach, to leffen its violence, and effea its cure : large quantities of molafles, with fufficient proportions of tea, fugar, and every other article that might contribute to thefe falutary ends, were carefully provided. Each veffel carried near five months water, allowing one gallon per day for each perfon on board, a plentiful fupply of which being one of the moft effeaual preventives of this diforder. Warm cloathing of every kind was provided for the crews, as well Chinefe as Europeans: In fhort, every thing was procured that China produced, to render both veflels as complete as poffible, and to enfure, as far as human means could be exerted, fuccefs to the voyage, and comfort to every denomination of people who were employed in it. A 2 Among 3 VOYAGES TO THE Amon°" other objeas of this voyage there was one, at leaft, of the moft difinterefted nature, and the pureft fatisfaaion ; and that was to. take back, to their refpeaive homes, thofe people who had been brought from America and the Sandwich Iflands. A certain number,of cattle and other ufeful animals were purchafed and taken on board, for the purpofe of being put on fhore at thofe places where they might add to the comfort of the inhabitants, or promife to fupply the future navigator, of our own, or any other country, with the neeeflary refrefh- ments. In fulfilling this pleafing duty to thefe children of nature, whom a curious fpirit and an unfufpeaing charaaer had led to fuch a diftance from their native country, a very marked attention was paid to Tianna,. a prince of the ifland of Atooi, a chief of illuftrious birth and high rank, who, in the year 1787, was carried by me to China, and who- now afforded us the pleafure of reftoring him to his country and his kindred, with a mind enlarged by the new fcenes and piaures of life which he had beheld, and in the pofleffion of various articles of ufeful application, or comparative magnificence, which would render him the richeft inhabitant of his native iflands. ' Mr. Cox, a commercial gentleman refident in China, was among thofe whom Tianna regarded with that warm efteem which repeated kindnefs never fails to" excite in a grateful mind : and it would not be. doing juftice to this amiable Indian, if he were not reprefented as poffeffing many of thofe fentiments which do honour to the moft cultivated underftanding. Mr.Cox not only manifefted a general intereft in the honour and happinefs w Tiauna's future life, by the g'elSerous confignrrKnt of a confiderable quantity of live cattle and other animals to the ifland of Atooi, but, with the moft attentive humanity, delired even to indulge his unreffeaing fancy* • Efamna, &&na> af^fawr, One of the Sandwich Zflands. mhybdAufhi.i^o.tyJWaterrMify.fucadilly. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, fancy, by appropriating a fum of money to be expended as his own untutored choice .or wayward preference fhould direa. This kind arrangement was, however, neceflarily fet afide; and the imperfea judgment of the chief fupplied by the better fuggeftions of his European friends ; who direaed the expenditure of the allotted fum, to procure him thofe comforts and advantages which might laft during his life, and tend to the improvement of his nation, inftead of gratifying the momentary whim for thofe objeas, which he himfelf might, at a future period, perhaps, learn to defpife. The time that could be fpared from the equipment of the fhips, was, in a great meafure, dedicated to this amiable chief, who was with difficulty made to conceive the information that he was fo foon to embark for his own iflands ; from whence, all the wonders of the new world to which he had been introduced, were not fufficient to feparate his affections. The love of his country, a principle which feems to be inherent in the human mind, in every ftate, and under every clime, operated forcibly upon him.—Thofe domeftic affeaions which are the fupport of all fociety, as well as the univerfal fource of happinefs ; and that parental fenfibility which, in a greater or lefs degree, influences all animated nature, from the higher order of man to the inferior claffes of the animal world, did not lofe their energies in the breaft of Tianna. His refleaion had often fickened at the though t of his family and his country; and the gaze of his aftonifhment frequently yielded to the in- trufive gloom of painful thought ;—while the fame hour has often feen him fmile with delight at the novelties which he beheld around him, and weep, with bitter lamentations, the far dearer objeas he had left behind, when he relfeaed that he might behold them no more. When, therefore, he was aflured of his approaching return to Atooi,— the idea that he fhould again embrace the wife whom he loved, and the child VOYAGES TO THE child on whom he doted, with all'the added confequence which would accompany him, from the knowledge he had acquired, the wealth he pof- fefled, and the benefits he fhould communicate to the place of his nativity, produced thofe tranfports which fenfible minds may conceive, but which •language is unable to defcribe. To give a minute defcription of his condua, behaviour, and fenti- ■ments, on his arrival at Canton, might be confidered as an unavailing digreflion, unworthy of that curiofity which it is the office of this volume to gratify.—It may not, however, be improper to obferve, that he •difcovered a mind pofleffed of thofe capacities which education might have nurtured into intelleaual fuperiority, and endued with thofe fenfi- bilities which forbid enlightened reafon from applying the name of favage to any human being, of any colour or country, who poflefl'es ■them. When he firft beheld the fhips at Wampoa, his aftonifhment pofleffed an aaivity which baffles defcription, and he emphatically called them the iflands of Britannee ; but when he had furveyed their internal arrangement, with all the various apparatus they contained, the immediate impreflions they occafioned on his mind were thofe of dejeaion ; he hung'his head in filence, and fhed an involuntary tear, as it appeared, over what he conceived to be his own inferior nature.—But the fame fpirit which urged him to quit his native country, in order to return with knowledge that might inftrua, and arts that might improve it, foon aroufed him into an aaive and rational curiofity.—Indeed he very fhortly manifefted no common degree of intelleaual exertion, by difcri- minating, as occafion offered, between the people of the feveral European nations, whom he daily few, and thofe of England, whom he always called the men of Britannee.-The natives of China he confidered Jgree of difguft which bordered on extreme averfion ;—their with « NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. bald heads, diftended noftrils, and unmeaning features, had raifed In his r mind the ftrongeft fenfations of contempt:—Indeed it might be owing to JAI the addition which the natural dignity of his perfon may be fuppofed to receive from fuch a prevailing fentiment, whenever he found himfelf amongft them, that the Chinefe appeared to regard him with awe, and that, wherever he turned, the timid crowd never failed to open to him a ready paflage, Tianna was about thirty-two years of age ; he was near fix feet five inches in ftature, and the mufcular form of his limbs was of an Herculean appearance. His carriage was replete with dignity, and having lived in the habits of receiving the refpea due to fuperior rank in his own country, he:pofleffed an air of diftinaion,. which- we will not fuppofe could faffer any diminution from his obfervation of European manners-. He- wore the drefs of Europe with the habitual eafe of its inhabitants, and had not only learned the ufe and arrangement of its various articles, but applied his knowledge to the uniform and moft minute praaice of perfonal cleanlinefs and decorum. The natural habits of his mind; however, occafionally recurred, and the childifh fancy of his native- ftate would fometimes intrude upon and interrupt the progrefs of his' improvement.. He could not be taught to underftand the value of our current command when he wanted any thing that was to be purchafed' by it, he would innocently afk for iron; which being the moft valuable metal in his eyes, was naturally confidered by him as the medium of barter among other, nations. To return Tianna to his native Ifland, operated very powerfully in forming the arrangements of the voyage before us : — his original defign a&d inclination was to proceed to England; and Captain Churchill-, of the Walpole Eaft Indiaman, offered, in the kindeft manner, to take himi under- VOYAGES TO THE under his proteaion, nor could he have found a better proteaor; but to confign him to another's care, and to fend him to a country from whence there might be no future opportunity of returning to his own, was a bufinefs that his friends could not reconcile to their feelings. The permitting him to leave Atooi, was confidered as an uimfleaing aa; and it was now determined that Tianna fhould return thither, if not, in reality, happier than before, at leaft pofleffed of treafures beyond any poffible expeaation of his unexperienced mind. But of all the various articles which formed his prefent wealth, his fancy was the moft delighted with a portrait of himfelf, painted by Spoilum, the celebrated artift of China, and perhaps the only one in his line, throughout that extenfive empire. The painter had, indeed, moft faithfully repre- fented the lineaments of his countenance, but found the graceful figure of the chief beyond the powers of his genius. The furprife that Tianna expreffed, as the work proceeded, was various and extreme, and feemed to follow with continual change every added ftroke of the pencil. When this painting was prefented to him, he received it with a degree of folemnity that ftruck all who beheld it; and then, in a ftate of agitation in which he had never been feen by us, he mentioned the cataftrophe which deprived the world of Captain Cook. He now, for the firft time, informed us that a fierce war had been waged throughout the Iflands, on account of a painting, which he called a portrait of that great man, and which had been left with one of their moft potent chiefs. This piaure, he added, was held facred amongft them, -and the refpea they paid to it was confidered by them as the only retribution they could make for their unfortunate deftruaion of its original. It may not, perhaps, be thought improper, if a fhort digreflion is nade in this place, in order to ftate, that during our former ftay* of this voyage is giver nthe Inl NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, among thefe iflanders we had every opportunity of eftimating their feelings with refpea to the lamented fate of Captain Cook, and we have every reafon to believe that thefe diftant inhabitants of the watery wafte, accompanied with fincere forrow, the regret of Europe. The numbers of them which furrounded the fhip, with a view to obtain per- miffion to go to Britannee, to the friends of their.beloved Cook, are incredible. They wept and folicited with an ardour that conquered ■every previous averfion. Prefents were poured in upon us from the chiefs, who were prevented by the multitude from approaching the veffel, and the clamorous cry of Britannee, Britannee, was for a long time vociferated from every part, and without ceafiug: nor can their filent grief be defcribed, when it was made known among them,' that Tianna, a prince of Atooi, was the only one fefeaed to the envied honour of failing with us. Previous to our departure, Taheo, the king of that ifland, paid us a vifit, accompanied by all his chiefs. As they believed that the commanders of every European fhip, who had touched at their iflands, fince the death of Captain Cook, were the fens of that illuftrious navigator, they, in the moft affeaing manner, deplored that event; and while each of them was felicitous to affert his own innocence, they united in reprefenting the paffions that had urged them to commit the fatal ^eed—which would .be a fubjea of their eternal contrition—as a punifh- ment infliaed on them by their gods. After thefe, and many fimilar declarations, they renewed their offers of friendfhip to Britannee, and departed ; nor have we the leaft doubt but that future navigators, who may chance to ftop at thefe iflands, will find there a fecure and welcome alylum. The other natives of the Sandwich Ifles and America, who were received on board, had been brought to China, by different fhips, rather VOYAGES TO THE as objeas of curiofity, than from the better motive of inftruaion to them, or advantage to commerce:—they confifted of a woman of the ifland of Owyhee, named Winee, who was in a bad and declining ftate of health ; a ftout man and boy from the ifland of Mowee, and a native of King George's Sound ; the barbarous nature of whofe inhabitants rendered it an ufelefs experiment to accompany him with any of thofe advantages provided for the others. On board of each fhip were embarked fix cows and three bulls, four bull and cow calves, a number of goats, turkies, and rabbits, with feveral pair of pigeons, and other ftock in great abundance. Unfortunately it was not in our power, at this time, to procure fheep ; but feveral lime and orange-trees were purchafed and deftined for Atooi, as Taheo, the fovereign of that ifland, pofleffed all the power neeeflary to protea fuch valuable property. Had we been fo fortunate as to have landed all the cargo prepared for the Sandwich Iflands, they would have become the moft eligible places for refrefhment in the whole extent of the Northern Pacific Ocean. If, however, the American commerce fhould be purfued, very confiderable advantages will be found to refult even from that part of our defign which was compleated. On the evening of the 22d of January, both fhips weighed from the Typa to proceed to fea; but it falling calm fhortly after, and the tide of flood fetting againft us, the fignal was made for anchoring, ch was accordingly performed in the roads, in fix fathoms, over a muddy bottom. The Iphigenia being in a ftronger part of the tide, was en farther up the roads, and anchored about two miles aftern of us. We here found riding, the Argylefhire, a large country fhip, of between fix and feven hundred tons, bound to Bengal:—fhe was afterwards unfortunately loft in her paflage from Bengal to China, and every foul on board fuppofed to have perifhed. NORTH WEST.COAST OF AMERICA. 1788. CHAP. II. The Iphigenia j^rag\r her Foremaft.—Paffage to the Philippines.—Sail along the Coaft of Luconia.—-Pafs Goat Ifland, the Ifles of Luban,- Ifland of hMindoro and the Calamines,—Scurvy breaks out on Board the Iphigenia.— Pafs the Ifland of Panay.—Mutinous ConduSl of the Crew on board the Felice, &c. .A BOUT nine o'clock in the evening, an air of wind fprung up Sunday 12. ■*■ *- from the South Eaft, which, though direaly againft us, determined us to put to fea; and the fignal was made to the Iphigenia to weigh.—By ten o'clock both fhips were under fail, the wind light and variable from the fouthward.—We continued {landing to the Grand La- drone until midnight, when it became extremely foggy, which occa- fi.oned us to fhorten fail for the Iphigenia, which was confiderably aftern. The foundings were regular, from four to fix fathoms, over a muddy bottom.—We now loft fight of the Argylefhire, who alfo weighed and proceeded to the South Weft. The morning of the 23d was extremely foggy ; and in the night we had Monday 23. loft fight of the Iphigenia.—The wind now veered to the Eaft North Eaft, and began to frefhen up ; 011 which a fignal was made with two guns to the Iphigenia, to get the larboard tacks on board, and ftand to the South Eaft.—At noon the fog cleared away, when the Iphigenia was perceived about a league to leeward of us.—During the night we kept B 2 firing VO YAG E S TO THE firing guns, and beating the gongs*, in order that fhe might judge of our fituation. By obfervation, our latitude was 200 54' North, and longitude 1140 24' Eaft; the South Weftern part of the Prata fhoal bore in the direaion of South, yf Eaft, diftant 40 leagues; Cape Bolinou, South, 500 Eaft, diftant 419 miles. As it was our intention to make the coaft of Luconia well to windy ward, we refblved to keep as much as poffible to the Eaftward, being apprehenfive of experiencing foutherly currents at this feafbn of the year.—We preferred making the coaft of Luconia to that of Mindoro, or the Calamines, the coaft of the latter being furrounded with" humorous fhoals, rocks, and fragments of iflets, which render the navigation extremely dangerous, and require the greateft precaution in failing through fuch an extenfive Archipelago.—The charts of thefe feas, by Mr. Dalrymple, moft certainly poffefs a great degree of accuracy, but are, as we fuppofe, neceffarily formed on fuch a confined fcale, and marked with fuch extreme delicacy, as to leflen their intended utility for the common pur- pofes of navigation.—By adhering to this track we hoped to experience lefs boifterous weather, from being fheltered, in feme meafure, by the coaft of Luconia, and at the fame time to fteer clear of many dangerous, fhoals, which lie at fome diftance from its coaft, and are, indeed, fcattered. throughout thefe feas. The courfe was continued to the South Eaft, till the 25th; the weather gloomy and unpleafant; the wind blowing fteadily from the Eaft North Eaft, and North Eaft by Eaft, with a very heavy fea. The latitude, at noon, was 18° North; the longitude 1170 1'. Eaft. The South * A China gong refembles, in fome degree, the form of a fieve; and is made of a mixtura of metals. The China j unks ufe them as bells; and, when they are ftruck with a wooden. ' mallet, produce a deep, fonorous noife. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. South Maroona fhoal bearing North 6i° Eaft, diftance 49 leagues; Cape Bolinou 620 Eaft, diftant 6j leagues. The Iphigenia proved but an heavy failer, when compared with the Felice, fo that we were continually obliged to fhorten fail on her account ; an inconvenience which we determined to get rid of, by feparating company from her, and making the Deft of our way, as foon as we had got clear of the Sooloo Sea. In the evening we fpoke with the Iphigenia, when Captain Douglas informed us that the fhip had fprung a leak in the late bad weather, above the copper, which obliged him to keep one pump going, but that he hoped to ftop it the firft favourable moment.—This accident occafioned no inconfiderable degree of uneafinefs.—Circumftances of this kind have a very unpleafant tendency to difhearten feamen, who, with all their hardy courage, are very fubjea to be influenced by fuperftitious omens of the moft trifling and ridiculous nature; and which, if they ftiould happen in the beginning of a voyage, will frequently operate upon their minds and condua through the moft lengthened courfe of it. Our China crew were all extremely affeaed by fea-ficknefs, which was a very difcouraging circumftance ; and the exceflive rolling and tumbling of the fhip, caufed the cattle to droop ; indeed, from the apparent impoffibility of preferving them all,during fuch a long voyage,—from the want of proper food, and as there were a greater quantity on board than were neeeflary to ftock the iflands to which they were deftined,—it was thought proper to kill them all but two cows and a bull, and one bull and one cow calf, who might, we hoped, become enured to the voyage, and be preferved to their deftination. Accordingly two of them were killed, 1 13 VOYAGES TO THE killed, and frefli meat ferved to the crew, with barley, which made them comfortable meffes. During the evening it blew very ftrong indeed, with an heavy fea.— We continued {landing to the South Eaft, in the hope of being able to weather the North Maroona fhoal; the pofition of which, according to Mr. Dalrymple, is extremely doubtful;—we therefore kept the beft lookout in our power. At five o'clock we were alarmed, by perceiving, that the Iphigenia fpread abroad the fignal of diftrefs, which denoted, at the fame time, that fhe was not in want of immediate affiftance: we however inftantly bore up and fpoke to her; when Captain Douglas informed us that his fore-maft was fo dangeroufly fprung, that fome method muft be immediately taken to fecure it; but the fea ran fo high, and it blew at the fame time fo ftrong, that we were prevented from affording any affiftance whatever; we fhortened fail, however, immediately; and before night the -Iphigenia had her fore-top-maft and top-gallant-maft on deck, and her'foremaft entirely ftripped. k was now abfolutely neceffary for us to keep under what poffible fail we could ; and as the Iphigenia was able to keep abroad her main-topfail, main-fail, and mizen, to give thefe fails their-proper effea during the night, we kept two points from the wind, under an eafy fail, giving up all hopes of weathering the North Maroona, and being doubtful even of keeping our wind fufficient to weather the South Maroona, which is defcribed as extremely dangerous, and whofe fituation is as uncertain as that of the Northern fhoal of the fame name.—It blew very hard during the night, with a heavy fea; the Iphigenia appearing to labour exceedingly. This X NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. This was, indeed, a very unfortunate event ; the weather we had to encounter was very much to be dreaded, and the crippled ftate of the Iphigenia's mail greatly increafed our apprehenfions; as, in cafe it fhould meet with any further injury, there was no friendly port nearer to us than Batavia, where we fhould be able to replace it. Our fituation, driven as we were about thofe feas, and furrounded by dangerous fhoals, was truly diftrefflng and alarming.—It was i'mpoflible for us to make the land, as we might be thrown into a fituation which would encreafe the danger of the Iphigenia ; and as to leaving her in fo diftreffed a con- ■ dition, fuch a defign did not occur to. us for a moment; befides, xwe were not without apprehenfions of being driven too far to the Southward, which would render it impoffible for us to get hold of the coaft of Luconia, Mindoro or the Calamines, and under fuch circumftances, inftead of making the paflage of the Sooloo Sea, we fhould have been obliged to take our courfe through the Straits of Sunda, and reach the Northern Pacific Ocean by the Straits of Macaffer, of which, after all, we were rather doubtful; or, by doubling the South Eaftern extremity of New Holland, if we fhould give up the paflage of the Endeavour's Straits—It is very eafy to conceive the uneafinefs we fuffered from the bare profpea of fuch a circuitous navigation. The weather did not moderate until the twenty-fixth at noon: the latitude was then 170 5' North, and the longitude n8° Eaft. The South Weftern end of the North Maroona bore in the direaion of South Eaft, diftant thirty leagues. We kept {landing towards it during the night under fuch fail as the Iphigenia could fpread, and we very much wifhed to have fent a boat on board her : but, on a fudden, the weather became as tempeftuous as ever, fo that we could neither fend carpenters or plank to her affiftance.—A ftage had been ereaed round her maft head, but a great hollow fea increafed our alarms for her fituation. This L V O YAG E S TO THE This day, another of the cattle was killed for the crew; indeed, the. exceflive tumbling and rolling of the fhips made us defpair of faving.any of them ; two of the fineft goats having already been crufhed by a fudden roll of the fhip.—During the night it blew extremely hard, with a great hollow fea.—We kept fleering to the South Eaft, frequently bringing too for the Iphigenia, fhe being under fuch fmall fail. This unfavourable weather continued till the 27th, at noon. The latitude was 16° 20' North, and longitude 1190 12' Eaft. The obfervation, however, was but of little dependence, from the variety of currents which we experienced. The wind had veered to the Northward ; and we hauled up Eaft South Eaft, proportioning our fail to that of the Iphigenia. It was, indeed, apprehended, that an Eafterly current had fetus to the Weft ward, as our latitude was i6°2o' North, without feeing any thing of the fhoal. As we could not fuppofe it poffible that we fhould be to the Eaftward of the Maroona, .we were under the ne- ceffity of hauling to the Eaftj as much as the running of a very high fea would permit. In the evening we fpoke with Captain Douglas, who informed us that the head of his foremaft was entirely rotten, and that it was with, great difficulty the carpenters could proceed in their attempts to fecure.it from the high, rolling fea-—Before night, however, we had the fatisfaaion of feeing the Iphigenia's fore-top over head, and her lower rigging fet up; fo that our fears of being driven to the fouthward of Mindoro, in fome meafure, fubfided. It was, however, determined, that, from the great extent of feas we had to crofs, the rifk would be too great for the Iphigenia, in her prefent ftate, to attempt fuch a paflage without having her maft well fecured; or, 1 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Zy if condemned, to be replaced by another.—It was therefore refolved to 1788. call a furvey of the carpenters on It, the' firft favourable moment; and it J*™ARY- was abfolutely neeeflary to fix immediately on fome place where the repairs that fhould be found requlfite could be accompllfhed. The Spanifh fettlement of Samboingan, on the Southern extremity of Magindanao was confidered as the beft place for our purpofe; and though we had fearcely ever heard of it, and the hofpitality of the Spaniards was always to be doubted, our neceffity obliged us to fuch a determination, rather than proceed to Batavia, or encounter the coaft of New Holland. This evening, we pafled great quantities of rock-weed and drift-wood, which made.us apprehenfive'of falling in with the fhoals. In the morning, the ifland of Luconia was difeerned from themaft- Saturday is. head, bearing from Eaft North Eaft, to Eaft South Eaft, diftant 12 or , 14 leagues, and bore an high and mountainous appearance. As we clofed in with the land, the weather became moderate and fine, and the fea entirely fubfided. The Iphigenia had got up her fore top-maft. At noon the obferved latitude was 160 16' North ; fb that, during the laft twenty-four hours, we had experienced a ftrong Northerly current. Nothing can more ftrongly prove the danger of navigating the China . feas, than the variety of contrary currents which we experienced in fo fhort a time :—During the greater part of the North Eaft Monfoon, it has been generally obferved, that a Northerly current fets along the coaft of Luconia, as far as Cape Bolinou : there the great body of water ruffling through the ftraits which form the paflage between Formofa, this Ifland, and the Babuyanes, checks this current, and turns it into the China Sea, where it receives a Southerly direaion, at the diftance of 15 or 20 leagues from the coaft of Luconia. C The VOYAGES TO THE The currents, at all periods of the North Eaft Monfoon, run ftrongly to the Southward in thofe feas, excepting near Luconia ; but the ftreams of them acquire greater force at the diftance of 30 or 40 leagues from the fflores of this ifland, than they do off the coaft of China : this circum- ftance may be occafioned by the junaion of the waters paffing through the ftraits of Luconia, and thofe between China and Formofa. Ships bound for China, which are late in the feafon, might avail themfelves of thefe currents to reach Cape Bolinou, when an eafy and pretty fecure paflage is open to Canton, Indeed, bordering on the coaft of Luconia may be attended with great advantages; for, independent of this Northerly current, fine weather is generally experienced. At times, variable winds ; —in the .very height of the North Eaft Monfoon, it has fometimes been known to blow a fmart gale from the South Weft. As our apprehenfions had continued to increafe of being drifted to the fouthward, the fati'sfaaion we felt at thus getting in with the land may be eafily conceived. Towards the evening of this day it fell calm; but, about nine o'clock, a freffl breeze fprung up from the South Weft, which made us ftand on our tacks, for the night, on and off fhore ; where we faw feveral fires, which remained burning during the greater part of the night. Our diftance was between fix and feven leagues. In the morning, the land bore from North North Eaft, to South South Eaft, our diftance being about fix leagues:—it appeared very mountainous, and was covered with wood, except in fome detached places, on the declivity of the mountains. Vaft columns of fmoke afcended from the interior heights, which denoted population. The latitude at noon was 15' 52' North. During the evening and the night, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ' I( we continued {landing to the land, but could find no foundings with an 1788. hundred and fifty fathoms of Hue. January. The land extended from North by Eaft, to North Eaft by Eaft, diftant Monday 3o about fix leagues; at which diftance we kept fleering along the fhore to the Southward and Eaftward ;. the latitude was 150 19' North, by obfervation. The weather was extremely moderate, and pleafant under the land, the fea remarkably fmooth, and a continuation of hio-h, mountainous country, covered with wood, prefented itfelf to our view. At night, it blew a frefh breeze from the Weftward ; and we flood to fhe South by Eaft, to make Goat Ifland, keeping a good look out for feme fhoals that are faid to lie to the Northward of the ifland. In the morning, about eight o'clock, Goat Ifland was feen, bearing Tuefday3* North Eaft by North, about the diftance of fix leagues; the coaft of Luconia bearing, at this time, from North by Weft to South Eaft, at the diftance of 14 leagues. From an obfervation made at noon, the latitude was 130 45' North. Goat Ifland appeared of a moderate height, and to be well wooded} but without any fign of inhabitants. The Luban Iflands were perfea mountains covered with woods :—The Spaniffl charts, indeed, reprefent the Lubans as conneaed by fhoals with Goat Ifland; but we could not perceive any broken water, or procure foundings with one hundred and fifty fathoms of line. We took the opportunity of the favourable weather we now enjoyed to put the fhips in a ftate of defence. The guns were accordingly «aounted, a fufficient quantity of powder and ammunition was filled, C 2 and VOYAGES TO THE and every other neeeflary preparation made, as thofe feas are Infefted with numerous bands of pirates. Two very fine fhips had lately been taken by them. One of them was the May, of 300 tons, and mounting •twenty guns, and had been on a trading voyage from Bengal to the coaft of Borneo. General intelligence was received from the Malays of her being deftroyed, but not a Angle perfon efcaped to relate the particulars* Several other fhips have very narrowly efcaped deftruaion : indeed-, fearce a year paffes away, but feme cataftrophe of this kind happens. The proas from Magindanao and Sooloo iffue forth in fuch fwarms, that < it becomes dangerous for a weak fhip to fail thofe feas. Thefe proas are manned with an hundred, and fometimes an hundred and fifty men, well armed, and generally mounting pieces of cannon of fix or twelve pounders. As foon as a fhip is captured by them, a carnage enfues,— and the unhappy few who furvive it are carried into irredeemable flavery. Thefe people cruife in fleets of thirty or forty of thefe proas ; nay, fometimes an hundred of them have been perceived in company ; and though we did not very much apprehend that they would venture to attack two fhips, it would have been an unpardonable negligence if we had not prepared ourfelves for whatever might happen. We availed ourfelves alfo of the prefent favourable opportunity to furvey the mafts of the Iphigenia, and deliver her fuch ftores and other articles as we knew that fhe wanted, to put her in a refpeaable ftate of defence. We therefore fent on board her two additional pieces of cannon with a requifite proportion. of powder, ball, and other ammunition ; and in return received a quantity of coals for the forges, and feveral other neeeflary articles. Add nali oppo: reafons continually arofe why the fhips fhould feparate on the firft opportunity after we had cleared thefe dangerous feas. But, if even there had been no other, the Felice, by keeping company with the Iphigenia, who was at beft inferior in point of failing," would have been very NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 2] very much impeded in her voyage; and it was become neeeflary to make 1788. every poffible exertion to fave our feafon on the coaft of America. January* In the evening the carpenters returned from the Iphigenia, and reported the maft to be, in every refpea, unequal to the voyage; they even doubted whether it would carry her to Samboingan. The head was quite rotten and fupported by the cheeks : good fifties, however, were put on and fecurely woolded. At funfet the ifland'of Miiidoro was- feen bearing South Eaft by Eaft, diftant 10 leagues. The wind blew vefry ftrong from the Eaft, and it came down in violent puffs from the high mountains-of Luban : during the night a prefs of fail was carried to reach under the fhore of Mindoro. The wind blew invariably from the Eaft, fo that we became apprehen- five of being entangled with the iflands called the Calamines, which are not onlv in great number, but extremely dangerous. The top-fails were reefed, and as much fail as we could well keep abroad was carried, which brought us happily under Mindoro about midnight. It foon after became .fqually, and as it would have been very hazardous in a dark nighf, and on an unknown coaft, to run, the fignal was made to the Iphigenia to heave to with her head off fhore ; we immediately did the fame ; but fhe had ftretched a-head out of fightr, though fhe anfwered our fignal.^- During the night it blew very hard, and we were continually founding-, but could find no ground with an hundred fathoms of line. The inhabitants not only kept numerous and conftant fires along the fflores, but had even lighted them on the very fummits of the mountains. At day break we occupied much the fame fituation as when- we hove J^**™**' J * wedneiday 1 to in the night. The Iphigenia was near four- leagues a-head,-. but we made VOYAGES TO THE made fail and joined her by noon. Our latitude was 120 59' North: The' ifland of Mindoro bore South Eaft by Eaft, —diftant fix leagues. The ifland of Mindoro at funfet, bore from North by Eaft half Eaft, to South Eaft by Eaft, half Eaft; our diftance from the fhore about fix leagues. In the night it was, as ufual, very tempeftuous, and we experienced a very ftrong current againft us, which caufed fuch a confufed fea, that we were apprehenfive for our mafts and yards. Early in the evening we had fflortened fail, and kept a good look out for the fhoals that lie between Mindoro and the Calamines. In order to clear them, we hauled clofe under the fhore of the former ifland ; the channel between Mindoro and thofe fhoals being reprefented as three leagues wide. The fires appeared to be more numerous on the declivity of the mountains, and were kept burning all night. At nine o'clock in the morning we perceived the Calamine Iflands, bearing South Weft to South Eaft, diftant fixteen or feventcen leagues. The weather had alfo taken a favourable turn ; it was become moderate and pleafant, and we congratulated ourfelves very much on entering this channel; as the ftrong Eafterly winds might have blown us to the Southward and Weftward of the Calamines, which would have obliged us to have bore up along the coaft of Palawan, and made our entrance again into the Sooloo Sea very precarious at this feafon of the year. We now found the advantage of keeping the fflores of the Philippines on board, whenever the winds permitted us ; but in accompliffling this we experienced fome difficulty from the conftant North Eaft and Eaft winds, which obliged us to carry a .conftant prefs of fail. Captain Douglas embraced this opportunity to inform us that the feurvy had made its appearance .on board his fhip. The carpenter, two NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. two of the quarter-mailers, and fome of the feamen were already ill,— others difcovered fymptoms which were truly alarming,—their legs fwelling, and their gums becoming putrid. They were, therefore, immediately put on a diet,—fpruce beer was ordered to be conftantly brewed, and ferved in the room of fpirits,—feveral bafkets of oranges were fent on board, whofe efficacious qualities in this diftemper are well known, and every other antifcorbutic was immediately brought into application, in order to check this early appearance of a diforder, whofe continuance would be attended with fuch fatal confequences. We very fenfibly perceived the encreafing heat of the weather. On leaving China, we had it piercing cold; and now, on a fudden, we felt the oppofite extreme. Such a change, with the heavy dews which fell morning and evening, was a very unhealthy circumftance ; neverthelefs we were rather aftoniffled, that men who had fo lately quitted the fhore, where they had a plentiful allowance of frefh provifions and vegetables, and who had not tailed fait meat for many months, fhould be attacked with fuch violent, fcorbutic fymptoms, and at fuch an early period of our voyage. Befides, we were extremely careful in the diftribution of their food ; the fait provifions were always well fleeped ; rice and peas were boiled alternately every day; tea and fugar were given the crews for breakfaft ; they had a plentiful allowance of water, and every poffible attention was paid to preferve cleanlinefs among them : they were never permitted to fleep on deck, left they fhould be affeaed by the unwholfome dews ; and no fpirits were fuffered to be iffued in their raw ftate,—a circumftance of the lafl importance to all feamen. Indeed thefe precautions fhould be redoubled with refpea to men who have made frequent voyages to India, as their blood becomes, on that account, more liable to the attacks of this moft formidable diforder. We- VOYAGES TO THE We kept fleering, during the night, under the fhores of Mindoro the topfails were clofe reefed, and, the weather being very fqually, w frequently founded, but could of line, though within four le; no bottom with an hundred fathoms of the land. Fridays , This morning we loft fight of Mindoro, and at noon the Ifland of Panay was feen bearing from North Eaft by Eaft, to South Eaft, diftant nine leagues; the weather moderated with the wind from the ;. North Eaft. The latitude* at noon was i z° $$ North. The Ifland of Mindoro is of confiderable extent; in fome parts it appeared to be only of a moderate height, in others very mountainous, and almoft everywhere covered with wood. From the numerous columns of fmoke which we obferved afcending both from the vallies and the mountains, during the day, and the fires that continued to illuminate the night, | there is the greateft reafon to fuppofe that it poffeffes a confiderable degree of population. Some parts which we were able to obferve diflina- ly, appeared to be truly delightful; they confifted of extenfive lawns, clothed in the fineft verdure, watered with filver rivulets, and adorned with > groves of trees, fo difpofed, either by art or nature, as to form fcenes of rural beauty which would adorn the moft refined ftate of European • cultivation. Thurfday4 On the following day we ranged up with the Ifland of Panay: the latitude at noon was io° 36' North; our diftance from the land four \ miles; and, which is very extraordinary, without being able to find foundings with eighty fathoms of line. Numerous villages appeared on the declivity of the hills, and the whole country formed a moft luxuriant profpea. The habitations leerned to be extremely well built, and. arranged with great regularity. The hills were verdant, and their gentle Hopes NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA." flopes were varied with ftreams of water running down to the plains, where they flowed round, or meandered through well cultivated plan- F tations :—the whole forming piaures of nature equal to thofe which we had feen on the preceding day; and received every advantage from the very fine weather we now enjoyed. Our eyes wandered over the piaurefque and fruitful fcene now before us, with the moft fenfible pleafure. We were, at times, within three miles of the fhore, which, near the water-fide,, formed a fine fandy beach lined with cocoa-nut trees, beneath whofe fflade we beheld the natives, in great numbers, enjoying a cool retreat from the intenfe heat of the fun, and bufied in the various occupations of the day.. We very much regretted that we had not time to eaft anchor here, in order to have enjoyed fome communication with them. It may not be alfo unworthy of remark, that we did not difcover a fingle canoe or fifhing-boat on that part of the coaft along which we pafled. At this time a mutiny was difcovered on board the Felice ; which, however, was fortunately quelled by gentle means, even befoie it had communicated itfelf to the whole crew. But, in order to ftamp fome degree of difgrace upon the bufinefs, all the circumftances of it were inferted in the log-book of the fhip. And here it may not be improper to offer an opinion, that, if in long voyages, all the particulars of the good and bad behaviour of the crew were defcribed in the log-book as they arofe, fuch a regulation would be attended with the happieft confequences. Shame will always be found to operate, more or lefs, on every man, whatever his rank or employment of life may be, who is not abfolutely abandoned ; and to fuch, the fevereft punifflment will have no effea beyond the fmarting of the mo- D ment. VO YAG E S TO THE! ment. Indeed I am firmly of opinion, that many a feAlor, with all the hardy training of a fea life, and all the infenfibility attributed to a fea- man's charaaer, would be deterred from an improper condua, by the apprehenfion of having it regiftered in the records of the fhip, when the temporary pain of corporal punifhment would be confidered with con- . tempt. Indeed I cannot but lament the inefficacy of the marine laws to reftrain the unlawful behaviour of failors on board merchant fhips. It is a real difgrace to the firft maritime and commercial nation in the world, to. have been fo long without an eftabliffled fyftem of regulations to pre*- ferve the obedience of feamen in the trade fervice, as well as that in the navy. How many fhips have been loft, from the licentious, ungovern* I able condua of their crews! and how many voyages rendered, unpror fitable from the fame eaufe. Neverthelefs, it does not appear that any efforts have been made to prevent fuch a manifeft inconvenience to the commerce of our country. Other nations have included merchant fhips". in the general laws enaaed for maritime fubordination ;- and it is of real confequence to this country to follow fuch a falutary example, and to form a code of regulations that may operate to keep in a due ftate of difcipline a clafs of men who are fo neeeflary to the commerce, the. ftrength, and the glory of the Britifh empire. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. CHAP. III. Sicknefs of the Sandwich Iflanders.—Death of TVtnee ; her Char abler, &c.~ Deftrublion of Cattle.—Iflands ofBafilan and Magindanao.—The Ships anchor of the latter.—The Carpenters and Party fent on Shore to cut a Maft, &c. —Lofs of a China Man.—Spaniards fent on board to compliment the Ships. —Both Ships moor off Fort Caldera,—Behaviour of the Spanifh Governor, M. ^\UR friends of Owyhee had fuffered extremely during the paflage ' \^~ acrofs the China feas. Tianna, in hisconftant attendance upon Wi- nee, had caught a fever, which, with the humane anxiety he felt on her account, confined him for fome time to his bed. The man from Nootka- Sbund, however, poffeffing a very robuft conftitution, bore the inconve- niencies of the voyage with little complaint; but the poor, unfortunate woman juftified our fears concerning her, that fhe would never again fee her friends or native land. She every day declined in ftrength, and nothing remained for us, but to eafe the pains of her, approaching dif- folution, which no human power could prevent. Nor did we fail, I believe, in any attention that humanity could fuggeft, or that it was in our power to beftow. She had been for fome time a living fpeare, and on the morning of the fifth of February fhe expired. At noon her body was committed to the deep ; nor was it thought an unbecoming aa to grace her remains with the formalities of that religion which opens wide its arms to the whole human race, of every colour, and under every clime, to the favage as well as to the faint and the fage. Tianna was fo much af- D 2 feaed : VOYAGES TO THE feaed by the circumftance of her death, that we were for fome time under very painful apprehenfions left his health might fuffer from the feelings of his humanity on this occafion; as he pofleffed, in a very great degree, that delicacy of conftitution which difcriminates the chiefs from the vulgar people, and is peculiar to the great men of his country. Thus died Winee, a native of Owyhee, one of the Sandwich Iflands, who pofleffed virtues that are feldom to be found in the clafs of her countrywomen to which fhe belonged ; and a portion of underftanding that was not to be expeaed in a rude and uncultivated mind. It may not, perhaps, be uninterefling to mention the caufe of this poor girl's departure from her friends and country, which it was her fate never to , behold again. Captain Barclay, who commanded the Imperial Eagle, was one of thofe adventurers to the coaft of America, who made a very fuc- cefsful voyage. Mrs. Barclay accompanied hdr hufband, and fflared with him in the toils, the hardfhips, and viciffitudes incident to fuch long, as. well as perilous voyages; but by no means calculated for the frame, the temper, or the education of the fofter fex. This lady was fo pleafed with the amiable manners of poor Winee, that fhe felt a defire to take her to Europe ; and for that purpofe took her, with the confent of her friends, under her own particular care and groteaion. On Mrs. Barclay's departure from China for Europe, Winee was left, as we have already mentioned, in a deep decline,-to embark for her country, with the reft of the natives of the Sandwich Iflands. On the morning of her death, fhe prefented Tianna, as a token of her gratitude for his kind attentions to her, with a plate looking-glafs, famil fathe PEST COAST OP AMERICA. of the fineft China: to thefe gifts fhe alfo added ticoat, and a cap for his wife;" the reft of her i great variety of articles, fhe bequeathed to her depofited with Tianna, to be delivered to her Nor let faftidious pride eaft a fmile of contempt on the trifles that com- pofed her little treafure. They were wealth to her, and would have given her a very flattering importance, had fhe lived to have taken them to her native ifland. But when we confider the fufferings of her mind, on the reffeaion that fhe fhould never behold her country again ;— when we fee, as it were, the difappointment of an inoffenfive pride preying on her fpirits ;—when to thefe caufes of dejeaion are added the pains of incurable difeafe, increafed by the tolling of the billows, and the violence of tempeftuous feas,—humanity muft feel for thofe mife- ries which haunt every corner of the earth,—and yield a companionate tear to the unfortunate Winee ! The bad weather had, at this time, greatly reduced our flock of cattle, —there now remained of our original number, but one bull, one cow, and one cow-calf;—all the goats, except two, had periffled. At funfet, on the fifth, we had almofl loft fight of Panay ; Point de Naffo, the fouthern extremity, then bore Eaft North Eaft, diftant feven leagues. The weather was extremely hazy, with the wind from the North Eaft; and we kept fleering during the night to the fouthward and eaftward, under an eafy fail, for the fouthern extremity of the ifland of Magindanao, which We defcried on the morning of the 6th of February', at day-break, bearing Eaft, feven or eight leagues diftant: it appeared high, and very mountainous. At noon, the latitude I VOYAGES TO THE was 7° 22' North, and our diftance from the land three leagues. The mountains jutted abruptly into the fea; and from their fummits to the water's edge, were covered with wood. We were continually founding, but could find no bottom with an hundred fathoms of line. It now became a matter for our choice, either to fleer direaiy to Sooloo, or to the Spaniffl fettlement of Samboingan ; the latter, however, was preferred, it being thought by no means prudent to run fo far to leeward as the former. Befides, as it was, the continual North Eaft winds made us apprehenfive, that we fhould find it rather a difficult matter to weather Jelolo, or even New Guinea; It was therefore deter- mined-to keep the fhore ofMagindanao clofe onboard, and truft to chance to fupply our wants: we continued running down the ifland till fun- fet, the fhores being bold, and no danger to be apprehended, as we could procure no ground. The Weftern extremity bore South South Eaft five leagues ; and as we thought it rather hazardous to run duririg the night, the fignal was therefore made to heave too till morning g9 when we refumed our courfe, at about the diftance of a mile from the fhore. In the night we had experienced a Northerly currerjf. At noon, the ifland of Bafilan was feen, bearing South South Weft nine, leagues. Our latitude was f 8' North. It had a very Angular appearance, from a great number of hills of a conical form ; , „„— „ s.vu. ..uu.uw w iiiiio ui a. uuuiuai lurm ; one of which terminated its Eaftern extremity, and refembled, in fflape, the cap of a Chinefe Mandarin. It was a very confpicuous objea, being the higheft of this curious groupe of hills. This ifland lies near Eaft and Weft ; and feveral other iflands, but of much lefs extent, appear off its Weftern point. Hgw; - NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. About three in the afternoon, we opened the channel that feparates Bafilan from Magindanao. At half paft three, the Southern extremity of F Magindanao was doubled; and we entered this channel, which appeared to be of confiderable breadth, with feveral fmall iflands in the midft of it. Our foundings were from twenty-five to thirty fathoms, over a rocky bottom. The South end of Magindanao we eftimate to lie in the latitude of 6° 56' North ; the fhore was every where covered with wood, down to the fea. At half paft four we were moft agreeably furprifed at feeing a fmall ftone fort feated on the Magindanao fhore, contiguous to. a ftream of running water, and about two miles from the South point. At the fame time a large village was feen more to the Eaftward. The ehfign was immediately hoifted, which very foon occafioned the Spanifh colours to be. difplayed from the Fort, and we were now no longer in doubt that the place was Samboingan. It was a fquare building, with centry boxes at each angle, covered with thatch, and the ramparts feemed to be crouded with Malayans; but on the whole it had the appearance but of a very indifferent fortification. The tide of ebb now came ftrongly againft us, and the fignal was- made for anchoring, which was accordingly done in eleven fathoms,. over a muddy bottom, at the diftance of about two miles from the fort, and within a quarter of a mile from the fhore, which appeared to be- covered with an impenetrable wood. The boats were immediately hoifted out, and. the carpenters fent to examine the nature of the woods. We now obferved with our glaffes the Spanifh colours flying on another fortification adjoining to the village, and.before which two gallies were riding at anchor. About five o'clock, a fmall. VOYAGES TO THE a fmall.boat came along-fide us, with a white flag flying in her bow ;— fhe was rowed by four Malayans, and had on board three Spanifh Padres or Priefts. At firft they appeared to be extremely apprehenfive that our arrival foreboded fome kind of hoftility ; but being affured that our intentions were peaceable and friendly, they accepted our invitation to come on board, and having taken fome refrefflment, they returned to the village; after having cautioned us not to permit any of our people to ftraggle into the woods, which were infefted with Malayans, who would be upon the watch to make every kind of depredation upon us. In confequence of this very kind and important information, orders were immediately difpatched to the Iphigenia, who had anchored about a mile from us, to withdraw her people from the fhore. The carpenter returned about fix o'clock, and made a report that every kind of timber we wanted, might be procured. In the morning an officer, with a ftrong party, was difpatched with the carpenters to cut down fome fpars for top-fail yards, and fleering fail-booms for the Felice ; and orders were ifl'ued to the Iphigenia to fend a fimilar party to cut a fore-maft ; in the mean time, the pinnace was employed in founding and furveying the channel, which was found to contain great over-falls, from five to ten, and thirty fathoms, at a eaft, with a very rocky ground. About noon the carpenters returned on board, having procured a top- fail yard and the booms. They had alfo felled a fore-maft for the' Iphigenia. The officer informed us of the lofs of a China:man, who was fuppofed to have ftrayed into the woods, and to have been feized by the Malayans. A numerous band of thefe favages, well armed after their fafhion, hovered about the place where the carpenters NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. were at work, and as we could not procure any intelligence of this poor unfortunate man, there is but too much reafon to believe that he fell ] into the hands of the natives. At one o'clock a large boat arrived from the governor, who refided at the village, to compliment us on our arrival, and to invite us to an entertainment which his" hofpitality had prepared. The officer who was employed to bring this polite invitation, confirmed the account of the priefts refpeaing the perfidious charaaer of the natives of the ifland; and recommended, in the ftrongeft terms, that we fhould ufe every poffible precaution when we fent any parties on fhore. He alfo informed us that we might procure any neeeflary timber with more eafe and fafety in the neighbourhood of the village, which pofleffed another advantage that might be of great ufe to us,—the being waffled by a rivulet of very fine water. He alfo added, on the part of the governor, that he fhould be happy to give us every affiftance in his power. '-^W^PSM It was, therefore, immediately refolved that the fhips fhould moor nearer to the village"; accordingly at two o'clock the tide making in our favour^ both {hips weighed and anchored abreaft of -a large ftone fort, called Fort Caldera, whofe baftions were within an hundred yards of the fea^ The fort was faluted with nine guns, which compliment was immediately returned. The body of the village bore North by Eaft half Eaft, diftant about a quarter of a mile; the extremities of Magindanao from Eaft North Eaft, to North North Weft; and the Ifland of Bafilan from South Eaft by Eaft, to South Weft by Weft, diftant about twelve leagues. E CHAP. VOYAGES TO THE CHAP. IV. Oar Reception at Samboingan.—Friendly Behaviour of the Governor, &c— The Spanifh Gallies cover our Parties while cutting a Maft.—Sicknefs of Tianna.—Goes on Board the IvUiGEm A.—Cattle, &c. received on Board.— The Governor vifit s the Ships, lie—The Felice prepares to put to Sea.— Lofes an Anchor and departs for America.—Some Account of Magindanaoy'| its Trade, Religion, Inhabitants, and ProduSlions.—Aftronomical Obferva- tions, Anchorage, &c—The Village of Samboingan.—Spanifh Force and. Power.—Riches obtained by the Governor of Samboingjan.—Defcription of a Ball given by him, and fhe Manners of the People.—Nautical Obfervation^^ en the Paffage between the China Seas and the Northern Pacific Ocean.— Danger of navigating the China Seas.—Account of the feveral Paffages between the two Oceans, with Direblions, &c.—Paffage between Formofa I and the Philippines.—Baftoee Ifles'.—Defcription of them. fT^HE Governor of Samboingan, who was a captain in a regiment of jl infantry at Manilla, received us with the greateft politenefs, af- fured us of every affiftance in bis power, and fupplied us, without hefi- tation, with whatever refrefflments the ifland afforded.—He was attended by three priefts, two of whom were young men, but the third was rather of an advanced age, and had refided on that ifland during an uninterrupted courfe of thirty years. We were conduaed into the fort, which appeared to be in a very ruinous ftate, and were regaled, after the Spanifh fafhion, with fweetmeats and NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. and cordials:—a very handfome repaft then fucceeded, to which the major of the country militia, and other officers were invited. Some of thefe gentlemen were natives of Manilla, and others of Magindanao, whofe complexions were fo dark as to approach very nearly to the blacknefs of the African. The priefts enjoyed, as well as enlivened, the hofpitalities of the day, and did not appear to be of opinion that they were thrown into that corner of the globe to pafs their time in penitence and prayer. The rivulet that .flowed through the village, after waffling the walls of the fort, emptied itfelf into the fea, at no great diftance from our mooring, which afforded us a very convenient opportunity of watering: we accordingly embraced the occafion to replace what we had expended of fuch an important article. On the roth, the governor was fo very obliging as to permit the two gallies, completely armed, to accompany the boats of both the fhips, that were employed to convoy the carpenters on fhore, to cut another fore-maft for the Iphigenia in the woods, the firft having been found defective-, about a league from the fort. About noon they got under fail, and proceeded with the boats, which were alfo well manned and armed. We had been affured that large parties of Malays were always on the watch, either to commit depredations on the people, or to carry off any unguarded ftraggler into flavery, from whence they feldom or ever efcaped. We were therefore determined to be in fuch a ftate of preparation as to feeure the objea of our little expedition from being materially interrupted by them. About nine -the parties returned with a very fine flick, without having feen the face of an enemy.—.In the mean time the other operations were proceed - ing, and every preparation making for the continuance of our voyage. Ez VOYAGES TO THE -88. At this place, however, it was refolved that we fhould feparatei I Bruary. The iphigenia could not have been ready for fea at leaft for fome days* J and even that period had become an objea of fome importance, from the • prefent advanced ftate of the year. The Felice was provided with every thing fhe could want, and we therefore prepared to leave Samboingan without any farther delay.. Tianna and Comekala, the man from King George's Sound, were, .| fince the death of Winee, the only perfons of their refpeaive countries on board the Felice; the reft of them, were on board the Iphigenia, to- which we now eonfigned the amiable chief of Atooi, as her courfe comprehended his native iflands.—Comekala remained with us, as the defti- nation of our voyage was to his own country. Tianna had been fo fenfibly affeaed by the death of Winee, as to pro* y duce a confiderable alteration in the ftate of his health :—his fever continued, and baffled all our attentions to relieve him. The fame fate that had feparated for ever his unfortunate countrywoman from her friends and native land, preffed home upon his refleaion.—He may be fuppofed to have felt, and fometimes, perhaps, expeaed that he might hear no more the tender names of father or of hufband ;—that he might fflare with Winee a premature grave in the bofom of the ocean.—He was therefore eonfigned to the care of Captain Douglas, with the hopes that the remaining on fhore till his departure, with the novelty of the feenes around him, might abate his diforder; and recruit his fpirits with a fufficient degree-of ftrength to bear out the remainder of the voyage. On the evening of this day, we received on board four fine buffaloes, with grafs and plantain trees for them and our other cattle :—to thefe were alfo added a quantity of rice, vegetables, and fruit, with feversiS very NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. | very fine hogs ; and it was our defign to put to fea without delay : but 1788. the wind fpringing up from the South Eaft, and the weather appearing Februar very gloomy and unfettled, our departure, was deferred to the following day. As we had now an opportunity to-make the governor fome acknowledgment for his very friendly attentions, an officer was difpatched with a meffage of thanks for his kindnefs to us, accompanied with an invita^- tion to partake of a repaftthe next day on board the fhips, which he very readily accepted. In return for which compliment, he requefted our prefence at a ball that evening ; fome account of which will be given when I come to mention the ftate, Sec. of the ifland, and its inhabitants. At the time appointed, the governor made us the promifed vifit, at- Thm-fday 1 tended by the three padres, and the major of militia ; and.we exerted ourfelves to theutmoft in our entertainment, to manifeft a proper fenfibi- lity to the friendfflip he had fflewn us. The priefts enjoyed themfelves on board the fhip as they had done on fhore; and joined in one common fentiment, that nothing tends fo much as wine and good cheer to anni- ' hilate-the force of religious diflinaions.—The governor and his fuite left us with the moft cordial expreflions of fatisfaaion at our reception of them. At four o'clock, the tide making in our favour, with a frefh breeze from the northward, we hove fhort ; but had the misfortune to find that our anchor, had hooked a rock ; nor could our utmoft endeavours difentangle it from its hold, and heaving rather a ftrain, the cable gave way, and we irreparably loft it. The fflip was immediately got under fail, and pafling clofe to the Iphigenia, fhe gave us three cheers, which, we immediately V O YAGE S TO THE immediately returned. She had her old fore-maft out, and her carpea- ' ters were bufily employed in preparing the new one on fhore. . The very fhort rime we remained at Samboingan did not give us a " fufficient opportunity to acquire any other knowledge of this fettlemeut than fuch as we received from the general information of others. But as this place Is fo much out of the way of fflipping and commerce, I fflaU not hefitate to repeat the account I received from the coHvaaanicati^Dijy of the old padre, whofe authority may, after all, be confidered as of fome .reliance, from his very long and continual refidence-on this ifland. Magindanao is an ifland of confiderable extent, being about 120 miles in breadth, and 160 in length, and is bleffed with a fertile, luxuriant foil.— The interior parts contain feveral chains of lofty .mountains,, between;! which are extenfive plains, where vaft herds of cattle roam at large in the moil delicious paftures. Several deep vallies alfo interfea, as-it wer%i| certain parts of the country, through which, during the rainy feafon%|g vaft torrents pour from the mountains, and force their impetuous way to the fea. The rains and vapours which lodge in the plains diffufe themfelves into meandering rivulets, and colleabg a variety of fmall ftreams^ in their courfe, approach the fea in the form of confiderable rivers. About the middle of the ifland there are feveral lakes of no fmall extent, of which, however, we received no other particulars than that their borders are inhabited by tribes of favage natives, who live in.a great meafure by plundering thofe who dwell nearer to the fea. Thefe people confider themfelves as free and independent of the fovercign of Magindanao, are of a fierce, implacable nature, and wage continual war with the Mahometans, who compofe the principal inhabitants of the ifland. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, ifland. They are called Hilloonas, and profefs no kind of religion, but live in a ftate of profound ignorance and barbarifm. The fovereign of Magindanao is a powerful prince, and has feveral inferior chiefs who acknowledge him as their head. Neverthelefs there are others of them who refufe fubmiffion to him, and are confequently in a continual ftate of war; fo that peace, at leaft, does not appear to be one of the bleffings of this ifland. The Spaniards, indeed, affert their right to the entire dominion of Magindanao, but it is mere affertion ; for though they have thefe forts, &c. on the ifland, it is by no means in a ftate of fubjeaion to their nation. The city of Magindanao is fituated on the South Eaft fide of the ifland, has a river capable of admitting fmall veflels, and carries on a confiderable- trade with Manilla, Sooloo, Borneo, and- the Moluccas. Their exports- are rice, tobacco, bees-wax and {pices ; in return for which they receive coarfe cloths of Coromandel, China-ware and opium. This city ufed formerly to be vifited by European veflels of fmall burthen ; but it was a confiderable time fince any of? them had been there.. The governor informed us, that the Iphigenia. and the Felice were the only European fhips that had been feen' in thefe feas during a. courfe of feverai years. The Mahometan religion is profeffed throughout the ifland, except by the Hilloonas, who,, as we have already obferved, are governed by no religious principlesy^praaife no form, of worfflip,—and live in a flate of 3 freedom.. Thefe ) NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 1788. Thefe people are called by the Spaniards, Negros del Monte, or Negroes -ebruary. ofjkg Mountain, on account of their refemblance to the race of Africa, both in their perfons and manners. They are fuppofed to be the original lords of Magindanao, and, indeed, of all the Philippines ; the Made Negros, or Ifle of Negroes, is, in particular, entirely peopled by them, where they are at conftant enmity with the Spaniards. The Mahometan natives of the ifland-are a robufl people, of a deep copper colour, and are efleemed intelligent merchants. If the Hilloonas are believed to have been the original inhabitants of Magindanao, it is very reafonable to fuppofe that they fled to the moun- tains to preferve their liberty, when they were invaded by the Mahometan hofts, which fpread like locufts, during the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, over the eaftern archipelago. Their favage ignorance and barbarous difpofitions feem to have become fo habitual, as to leave them without the leaft defire, or, perhaps, without even the leaft idea of any fuperior degree of intelleaual nature. The miffionaries whom the zeal for infidel cbnverfion, fo well known in the Roman Catholic Church, employed to preach Chriftianity to thefe inhuman people, were inftantly feized and murdered by them. The ifland is well wooded ; many parts of it towards the fea-coaft, are covered with impenetrable forefts : in others, the woods are feattered with a pleafing irregularity, contributing not only to the beauty of the country, but to its comfort and convenience, by fhading the hills and vallies from the fcorching heat of the fun. The fpecies of trees that are moft abundant, are the teake, the poone, and. the larch ; but its moft valuable and precious growth, is the cinnamon tree, which is to be found in every part of the ifland, and is of a quality by no means inferior to that NORTH" WEST COAST OF AMERICA. that of Ceylon. We received famples freffl from the tree, that pofleffed a delicacy of tafte and fragrance equal to any that is brought from thence. Our good friend the padre was fb kind as to procure us forty young plants of the true cinnamon tree, which were intended for the Sandwich Iflands. The. air of Magindanao is efteemed falubrious, particularly in the via- nity of the fea. The heat theceis not, in any degree, fb intenfe as might be expeaed, in a country which is fituated on the very verge of the torrid zone. I do not sepolka to have feen the thermometer at more than ,eighty-eight degrees, and-it was very often fo low as feventy-two. The prevalence of the Eafterly winds on that part of the coaft which is waffled by the Pacific Ocean, renders the air .cool and pleafant, the trade-wind blowing inceffantly on its fflores . It a£b, indeed, with fo much power as to fweep the whole breadth of the ifland; and though in-its paffage it lofes much of its ftrength, it retains a fufficient degree of force to afford refreshing breezes to the inhabitants of the Weftern fhore. The interior parts are much colder, from a very cloudy at- mofphere, which frequently hangs over the fummits of the mountains in thick and humid vapours. The foil, which is very exuberant, is fuited to the cultivation of the' whole vegetable tribes, i Rice is produced in the greateft abundance; a pecul, or 1331b. may be purchafed for aSpanifh dollar. The yam and fweet potatoe are cultivated in the higheft perfection. Here are alfo to be found the cocoa nut, pumble-nofe, mangoes, the jack, the plantain,.oraoges, limes, and,in fl»ort, every fruit that is produced in climates of the fame parallel.—Indeed nature has been extremely hountiful to the inhabitants, in producing for them the great variety of F tropical • VOYAGES TO THE tropical produaions, without any demand upon their toil and labour. Here are alfo gold mines, which are fuppofed to be of confiderable value ;—and it may be naturally imagined that a knowledge or fufpi- cion of this circumftance firft induced the Spaniards to fettle on this- ifland:—but as the natives are ignorant of the art of forming mines, they remain unexplored by them ; and, as we were informed, little, if any gold has been obtained, but what has been waffled down by the autumnal torrents from the mountains which the Hilloonas inhabit, and who are in poffeffion of thofe parts which are believed to contain the precious ore.—But thefe mountaineers are too numerous and refolute to refign a fituation they have maintained fo long, without a fevere and? bloody ftruggle, and the Spanifh power is, at prefent, far too feeble to • make any attempt to diflodge them. Every part of the ifland abounds with buffaloes, cows, hogs, goats, &C —It affords alfo great variety of fowls, and a fpecies of duck, whofe' head is of a fine fcarlet colour. Here are alfo a fmall breed of horfes, remarkable for their fpirit. The natives, however, principally employ* buffaloes in the various- brand Iry and ; riculture The people of Magindanao univerfally chew the betel and'-areka, bu-tr make a more moderate ufe of opium than any other inhabitants of the Eaftern feas. The proas of the.Malayans are numerous and powerful; they carry from fifty to two hundred men ; and the confequence of their defultory expeditions is bloodfhed, carnage, and captivity to the people of the defencelefs towns and villages whom they furprize, or the unfortunate- I crews of veflels which they may chance to capture. The NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. The village or town of Samboingan is fituated on the banks of a fmall rivulet, which empties itfelf immediately into the fea; and is agreeably ffladed by groves of cocoa-trees. The number of its inhabitants are about one thoufand, among which are included the officers, foldiers, and their refpeaive families. In its environs there are feveral fmall lookout houfes, ereaed on polls of twelve feet high, in all of which a con- ftant guard is kept; fo that it appears as if the Spaniards were in a continual ftate of enmity with the natives. The houfes are built of thofe fimple materials which are of very general ufe in the Eaftern feas. They are ereaed on pofts, and built of bamboo, covered with mats :—the lower apartments ferve for their hogs, cattle and poultry, and the upper ones are occupied by the family. Nor did it a little excite our aftonifflment, that the Spaniards, inftead of creating an-emulation and improvement among the natives, from their own fuperior knowledge of the arts and conveniencies of life, fhould mfenfibly fink into the manners and cuftoms of the very people whofe ignorance they affea to defpife. But, though their houfes have but little to boaft, their piety has produced a decent church, which is built offtone. The fort is a very poor place of defence; and is, as far as we could judge, in an abfolute ftate of decay; for the governor's cautious fpirit took care to keep us from any particular examination of it. —Towards the land, its whole defence confifted of a fimple barrier, with two or three pieces of cannon. — To a very moderate force indeed, this place would become an eafy capture. Indeed, the Felice and Iphigenia might, without any affiftance, have rendered the Spanifh power very precarious in this fettlement. — The military force confifted of from one hundred and fifty to two hundred foldiers, natives of Manilla, in which place alfo, the governor himfelf F-3. was VOYAGES TO THE was horn. - Tfeey appeared to be in a ftate of difciplme by ho means unworthy of the fbltfefs which they garrifoiied. Samtflbhi^an is the Botany Bay of the Philippines, and crimes of a certain Mature are punifhed there by banifhnoent to this place.—We did no* fee any Of the delinquents, but we had reafon to fufpea that there were fev&tai in fome kind of clofe confinement. Inconfiderable, however, as this fettlement may appear, the governor k fuppofed to clear thirty thoufand dollars in the three years of his fefideade there. This advantage he derives frem furfiifhing the foldiers with cloathifig and provifio&y^from gold-duft, cinnamon, fpices, and fet&er contraband goods. The condua of the inhabitants was governed by the moft pleating decorum, for Which they are folely indebted to the civilizing fpirit pf,the old padre; as his two fellow-labourefs in lite fpiritual vineyard, were rather calculated to deprave, than improve the poor people committed to their charge.—Indeed the former was of that amiable, conciliating difpofition, which is fo well adapted to the cultivation of. lavage manners.-r-f • We were equally furprized at hearing a very tolerable band of mufic, I which was compofed of natives of the country.—Jt confifted of four violins, two baffoons, with feveral flutes and mandolins. This^nexpeaed orcheftra were acquainted with fome of the fefea pieces of Handel; they knew many of our Engliffl country dances, and feveral of our popular and favourite tunes; but in performing the Fandango, they had attained a degree of excellence that the niceft ears of Spain would havte heard with pleafure. The Malayans poffefs, in common with othiea favage nations, a fenfibility to the charms of mufic, and are even capable NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. capable of attaining no inconfiderable degree of perfeaion in that delightful fcience. i The good old prieft had alfo taught the greater part of the town to dance ; fo that the inhabitants of this diftant and unfrequented fpot, pof- feffed two amufements which are the beft calculated to enliven the dull, or footh the melancholy hours of life. On the evening previous to our departure, the governor, as we have already mentioned, gave us another proof of his polite and hofpitable difpofition, by preparing a ball ex- prefsly for our amufement. About eight o'clock in the evening, the company met at the governor's houfe. The ladies, who were efcorted by a number of young men of Samboingan, were dreffed after the manner of the ifland, which borders on, as we may fuppofe it to be borrowed, from the fafflions of Manilla. It confifted of a veil which fell gracefully to the ancles, and was fo arranged as to heighten real charms, and to make one fancy beauty even where nature had denied it. The arms alone were bare; but the folds werefo contrived as half to difcover the bofom, while the entire figure, in all the fimplicity of nature, could not be defcribed as being concealed from the exploring eye.—Their ancles and wrifts were adorned with bracelets of gold, which gave, as may be fuppofed, fomewhat of arichnefs to an appearance that was already elegant. Many of them were extremely handfome; nor did certain arch looks, which appeared to be habitual, though they were heightened by the dance, render them lefs agreeable. The Fandango was performed in its utmoft perfeaion;—the minuet was not difgraced by their motions,—and Englifh country dances, feveral of which were performed in compliment to us, have been often exhibited with far lefs grace and agility in many of our beft affemblies, than in this diftant and remote corner of the Philippine Iflands.—This amufement 45 VOYAGES TO THE ment lafted till twelve o' clock, when all the company retired, with every appearance of the moft perfea fatisfaaion. For fuch means of innocent amufement, the people are indebted to the venerable padre, who himfelf joined in the dance. Indeed it would have been not only to the honour of Spain, but of the religion it profeffes, if fuch men had been employed, who, like this amiable priefl, could make their millions a fource of comfort andhappinefs, inflead of accom- . panying them with that feverity of difcipline, and cruelty of compulfion, which renders converfion infincere or mifunderftood, and is in fuch direa oppofition to the mild and benevolent fpirit of Chriftianity. The governor, however, with all his civility, would not permit us to land any inftruments, in order to make aftronomical obfervations ; we were therefore obliged, under confiderable difadvantages, to take them on board the fhips.' The latitude of the anchoring ground was, by the medium of feveral good meridian obfervations, 6° 58' North, and the longitude, by twenty obferved diftances of the fun and moon, taken by good fextants, 1220, 28' Eaft of Greenwich. At this time the flag-ftaff on the fort bore North half Eaft, diftant half a mile. The anchorage before the fort is foul and rocky : a-breafl of the town it is much better; a fandy bottom and well fheltered, except from the South Weft quarter, and even then the wind has not fufficient ran°e to produce a fea, or to be attended with any circumftance of danger. It will not, I truft, be confidered as foreign to the defigu of this work, if I interrupt the progrefs of my voyage, for a few pages, to offer fuch obfervations NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA. \ obfervations and notices as I had occafion to make on the paffage between roo - the Northern Pacific Ocean and the China feas ; fome knowledge of Februa: which courfe, whether it be purfued to the Northward or Southward - ■ of the Philippines, muft be of confiderable ufe to Oriental commerce-, and be particularly -effential to fhips that take the Eaftern paffage to China, which is occafionally preferred, particularly during a war, by thofe who are bound to the port of Canton, in the North Eaft Monfoon. Nautical obfervations are, at all times, of the greareft Importance, and we offer fuch as we have made, fo the judicious refleaion of thofe who may be particularly interefted in them. It muft, indeed, be confidered, that although in the track of the Felice and the Iphigenia acrofs the China feas, along the Philippines into the Pacific, no dangers were vifibletous; yet others, purfuingthis route, may be lefs fortunate, as this very track is. 'generally defcribed as abounding with many. We indeed found a clear navigation, nor have we any reafon . to doubt, but that, with a proper degree of precaution, fflips might find a fafe and eafy entrance into the China feas by Magindanao and the channel of Bafilan. . I I The Eaftern feas are certainly fet thick with perils, which, of courfe, render their navigation exceedingly precarious ; nor are the difficulties of it leffened by the circumftance that thofe perils are, in a great degree,, unknown. Ships, indeed, which purfue the common track acrofs the China feas, with the South Weft Monfoon, have not much to fear, if they do but make the different iflands to procure freffl departures..— Lunar obfervations cannot at all times be taken, a circumftance which fhould^ animate vigilance and quicken precaution ; of which, too much. cannot be exercifed in this arduous navigation-.- V O Y-A.G E-S TO T HE It would, by no means, be prudent for fhips to work up the China feas agafnft the North Eaft Monfoon ; and it would, of courfe, be equally hazardous to work down theim during the blowing of the South Weft. The currents are in fuch number., and withal fo various, that a fhipais .imperceptibly hurried into the midft of danger, in which the utmoft {kill and aaivity will be fbldom. able, even in copper-bottomed veflels, to efcape deftruaion. It is true, that there have been examples of fhips who have accomplished their voyage againft the reigning-winds ; but they fhould rather be reprefented as extraordinaryinftances of good fortune, from having efcaped a variety of dangers, any one of which might have proved fatal, than be cited to encourage others to purfue a fimilar navigation: ^Eot -j befides the rifks of a voyage, even if it fhoiild'be performed under thefe circumftances, the chances are very much againft the poffibilify of doing it, when the morifoons blow ftrong either one way or the other. As fhips, even in the periodical winds, are expofed to dangers, -it-is* 1 effentially neeeflary that they fhould, at all times, be provided with a I couple of chronometers; by the aid of which inftruments the pofitions of fhips may be afcertained ; for as they are liable to flop, fhould fueh an accident happen tonne of them, the portion of time elapfed, may be determined by the other, particularly if they are obferved every four- hours, a circumftance which fflould be an objea of the moft oarefdlJ&B**.; tention. Their regularity alfo fflould be examined and proved at every place where the fhip flops a fufficient time to make the neeeflary trial. There are many recent inftances of very fatal accidents which have happened to veflels, during the regular monfoons, from the want of thefe very ufeful inftruments. The NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. . The fflip Hornby, bound from Canton to Bombay, in the month of December, 1788, in a gale of wind, fell in with the ifland Pula Sapata, in the China feas, and was within a moment of being dallied to pieces. She was fo clofe to the land, that nothing could have faved her but the violent rebound of the furge from the fide of a rock; when, by being extremely alert in fetting fail, fhe moft fortunately got round it, A Dutch fflip in the fame year, was loft on the Prata fhoal; her crew was faved in the long-boat, and got fafe to Canton. In the year 1789, and fome time in the month of June, the fflip Lizard, bound from Bombay to Canton, was wrecked on the Lincoln fhoal. The captain and feven men were all which were faved of her crew. After undergoing the greateft hardfflips and diftrefs in a fmall boat, they arrived at Canton. The Argylefflire, a large country fflip, bound from Bengal to China, was fuppofed to have been loft fomewhere in the China feas. The number of Spaniffl and Portuguefe fhips which have been loft in thefe feas alfo are by no means inconfiderable; fo that too much vigilance and precaution cannot be employed in fuch an hazardous navigation. The fflip Cornwallis, of eight hundred tons burthen, commanded by Captain William Counfill, failed down the China feas on her voyage to Bengal, in the month of May 1789, when it was to be fuppofed that the South Weft Monfoon was fet in, and encountered fuch a variety of fhoals, rocks and iflands, that her efcape was confidered as miraculous. And had fhe not been uncommonly well appointed, and navigated with G fuperior VOYAGES TO THE fuperior fkill and ability, in all probability fhe would never have reached 'Y' Bengal. . As the following Extraa of a Letter from on board this fhip may be of confiderable ufe to future navigators of thefe parts, no apology can be confidered as neeeflary for the infertion of it: " Malacca, July 4, 1789. " W E arrived here on the 27th of June, after a paffage of forty-five days, from China, which we confider as extremely tedious ; for fo prime a failer as the Cornwallis. In our paflage down we had an aftonifhing fet to the Eaftward: we could not make either ; the Macclesfield or Pula Sapata- The firft land that appeared to : view was on the 28th of May, bearing South Weft half South, diftant ; four leagues, with a reef of dangerous rocks and breakers, which we s fuppofed to be the Andrades, being nearly in the latitude of them.— '.At half paft two, P. M. a fhoal was feen from the deck, bearing ' South Weft half Weft, diftant two miles; and at four, {landing to ' the South Eaft, we were obliged to tack for another ffloal, bearing ! South Eaft by Eaft, diftant two miles. On the South Eaft end of I this ffloal, is a low fandy ifland, on which we faw the appearance of ' a wreck: the weather was very fqually ; during the night we deemed e it prudent to ftand under an eafy fail to the Northward, fearing this • chain of fhoals might extend more to the South : the next morning I at day-break, we wore and flood to the fhoals, and at ten, A. M. ;< made them. We were then obliged to haul to the Eaftward and' g Eaft North Eaft, till three P. M. and thus, by degrees, to clear " the NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. E the different fhoals which prefented themfelves to our view; eleven l of them forming a deep circle or curve, and are backed to the Weft- ! ward by very extenfive branches. They appear to extend from each • extreme, Eaft North Eaft, to Weft South Weft, and about twenty- '• five miles in extent: and what adds to the danger in making them is, ' that they are even with the furface of the water, which if fmooth and ' unruffled, they cannot be feen, there not being a rock about them but ' the firft. «« After clearing this reef, we fleered to the Southward ; and the next ! day found ourfelves in a clear fea. " On the 30th at noon, breakers were feen bearing North Weft j by North, diftant eight or nine miles. This reef appeared to trend ' the fame as the laft, and has dangerous rocks along the edge: its ' extent is about three leagues : when the reef was feen, we were in ' the latitude of 8° 47' North, by a good obfervation ; and by feveral ' fights of the fun and moon, the longitude was 1140 14', 45" Eaft, ! which made us feventy-two miles to the Eaft of our accounts. After ' clearing thefe fhoals, we flood to the South Weft; when, on the I morning of the 4th of June, at five A. M. a low fandy ifland was- ' difcovered with a rock on it: this we faw very plain from thequar- ' ter-deck ; and before we could alter the fflip's courfe, we were within ' three quarters of a mile of a moft dangerous reef of rocks, which i juft prefented themfelves above the water. We had a fine breeze ' during -the night, and were going five or fix knots an hour, but ' fortunately it died away about four In the morning ; fo that half an 'hour more of dark, or the continuance of this breeze, would have ' been our inevitable, deftruaion. This reef trends North North Weft, ' and South South Eaft, and is five miles long. Its latitude is f 52' G 2 I North, -a VOYAGES TO'THE 1788. I North, and its longitude nearly 1120 32' Eaft. From our providential February. | efcape,we called the ifland Providence Ifland, and the reef, Sebaftian's I Reef. " The many dangers we have been expofed to, has made it exceed- " ingly fatiguing:—At laft we made the Natumas and Anambas, which " are both egregioufly mlftaken, both in latitude and longitude,'* It appears therefore to be advifable for {hips bound to China from Europe, if they do not reach the Straits of Sunda in the month of September, to determine on the Eaftern paffage, in order to avoid the difficulties we have juft defcribed ; for, though the Eaft-Jndia fhips Wal- pole, Belvedere and Walfingham, arrived in China in the month of November, 1787, it is a rifk that can never be juftified but by the moft urgent neceflity. The Walfingham came up along the coaft of Borneo, and was even favoured with a gale of wind at South Weft, on the coaft of the Philippines, but neverthelefs efcaped fuch dangers as no prudent man would' ■vufh to re-encounter.—The Walpole reached the coaft of Luconia-, and' made a good paflage, though Captain Churchill found it equally dangerous; while the Belvedere, Captain Greer, puffled at once through the China feas, though the monfoon was' fuppofed to have fet ftrOngly in-..- Thefe are inftances of good fortune, which are rather to be confidered"' as happy efcapes from danger, than examples to imitate :—for it would" furely be much more prudent to determine on an Eaftern. paffage, particularly if Java-head is not reached by the tenth of October. The NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. The ftraits of Balli or Alias may, in this cafe, be fafely pafled, as Mr. Dalrymple's charts are very aceurate? from thence the'courfe is continued to the Macaffar Straits, employing every neeeflary precaution on account of the iflands-and ffloals that lie between thofe ftraits. The ftraits of Macaffar are not without dangers, though they are But but few, and well afcertain-ed; the Experiment and Captain Cook pafled through them, and made very good obfervations on their paffage*. The Experiment, indeed, got on fhore, and received feme little damage. In the North Weft Monfoon there is generally a-current fetring- through to the Southward; the waters from the Pacific Ocean and Sooloo Archipelago being confined here, form, in general, this Southerly drift. In the paffage of the ftraits the wind's are variable; but when It is cleared, they will be found to the Eaft and Eaft South Eaft; and there is then little ©r no reafon- to doubt the being able to reach up under the fhore of Ma-- gindanao^ which is preferable to the ifland of Sooloo: here, at times,, the winds are Weflerly, particularly in Nbvember and December ?. the . making Sooloo, therefore, would be attended with-difadvantages, as the currents and winds might render it. difficult to get up to Magindanao, independent of a number of dangerous fhoals and coral reefs, that are {battered"between Sooloo and BafiTan-: whereas, between the head'of the: Macaffar Straits and1 trie-South Kaftern extremity of Magindanao, there is no very imminent danger.—We failed through.thischannel, between-. Jelblo and'the ifland of Mbrotay, and re-entered: the Pacific-ocean, to. the Southward:of this ifland;. * Thefe fhips were botmd'on.a trading-voyage. from Bombay to tire North Weft cpafe of America, in.i7c6.. VOYAGES TO THE- The currents here fet South Weft, and with the wind to the Eaftward; it is neverthelefs very practicable to reach the ifland of Bafilan, and, of courfe, Samboingan, where every neeeflary refrefflment is to be procured. We then fleered our courfe to Sanguir, and thofe fmall iflands which lie between it and the Southern extremity of Magindanao. Thefe iflands are tolerably high, and well wooded, and furrounded with no danger but what is apparent, and therefore may be avoided. Sanguir is well inhabited, and affords refrefflments of various kinds. It Is alfo faid to abound in fpices, with which it carries on a trade with Magindanao. We found Eafterly winds to prevail here with very little deviation. Between the iflands of Bafilan and Sanguir, there are feveral fmall iflets, which are not laid down in the charts; but we did not perceive any circumftance of danger about them. The paffage by Samboingan is certainly much more eligible than that to the Eaftward of Magindanao. Indeed to get to the Eaftward is a matter of great difficulty.—It coft us a great deal of time, trouble and - vexation, to reach only the 147th degree of longitude : befides the track is ftrewed, as it were, with perils ; fmall, low fandy iflands, and numbers of reefs of coral rocks are every where vifible, which, during a dark night* would prove almoft a certain deftruclion; and, to encreafe the hazard, no foundings are to be procured, to give any warning of the I approaching danger. But, even if we fuppofe thefe rocks and fhoals to be cleared, it would not be prudent to tack before New Guinea is weathered ; and, laftly, the courfe to the Northward is to be confidered as lying through thofe dangerous iflands, the Carolines, whofe pofition has been confidered as very uncertain, till it was afeertained by the Iphigenia, as well as the contiguous fhoals; and, in particular, the Shoal Abregoes, * whofe NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 55 whofe exiftence was univerfally doubted, but is now found to be placed 1788. in the track of fhips entering the China feas from the Pacific oeea&> Feb*ua**- between Formofa and Luconia. If the paffage to the Weftward of Magindanao be preferred, there is no danger to be apprehended, at leaft, that we faw, from entering the channel of Bafilan : in the latter, confiderable overfalls will be found, but nothing elfe, up to the place of anchorage off Fort Caldera. This paffage is alfo by much the fflorteft; and, in our opinion, to be, in every refpecl, equal to that of the Pacific Ocean, exclufive of the very important confideration of refrefhing the crews of fhips. On leaving Samboingan, the navigator fhould hug the fhore of Magindanao clofe on board, as much as poffible, as the wind will be generally found to blow off the fhore, which is fteep clofe to, and no danger to he apprehended from it. The directions of anchorage are already ex- prefled in the account which has been given of the fettlement of Samboingan. From Magindanao, it will be proper to fleer a dired courfe for the South part of the Ifland of Panay;—if the wind Is not very favourable, it will be neeeflary to border the coaft of the Ifland del Negros; nor is there any danger to be apprehended from fleering clofe to Panay, as it has a very bold coaft, till the Weft point of the Ifland of Mindoro is reached : from thence the courfe lies to the coaft of Luconia, where confiderable advantage will be received from the currents which run to the Northward, during the period of the North Eaft Monfoon, off Cape Bolinou, from twenty to twenty-five miles in twenty-four hours, and- oftentimes as high as Cape Buxadore. The • VOYAGES TO THE 1788. The greateft precaution fflould be obferved about the period when the ebrvariv. jnonfoons change,—a time to be dreaded above all others in the China feas;—if, therefore, fhips fflould have reached Samboingan any time in the month of October, it would be extremely proper for them to remain there till the North Eaft Monfoon is fet ftrongly in. After Odlober, ' the paflage to and from Manilla to China is always certain. Even the worfl of the Spanifh fhips, and they are the moft miferably equipped of any veflels in the world, work up the coaft of Luconia to the height of the ifland, afllfted by .the Northerly current; they then ftretch over to the coaft of China, and are certain of effecling their paflage. On the whole it is evident, that this route is the fafeft, as well as the moft expeditious; and, at all events, fuperior to that of the Weft coaft of Borneo. If the Pacific Ocean fhould be preferred to effecl the paffage by ftretching to the Eaftward, and then tacking to weather Luconia, it would be right to {land to the Eaft till the coaft of New Guinea is weathered, and the 150th degree of longitude is reached; when it is probable, that the dangerous groupe of iflands, called the Carolines, will be weathered; amongft which are included the Pelew, and other low iflands, which are furrounded by reefs of rocks to a great diftance, and are without any foundings to give notice of danger in dark and ftormy nights. Between Magindanao and New Guinea, there are fo many clufters of thefe low iflands, as to require, and almoft to baffle the utmoft vigilance and precaution. When to the Northward of thefe dangers, the Bafflee Iflands may be made, feen by Dampier, or the Ifland of Botol Tobago Xima, feen by Lord NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^ Lord Anfon ; but it would be the beft way to make the latter, exercifing 1788, every poffible degree of attention to avoid the Abregoes ffloal, which is F£BRU*Rir- extremely dangerous. When Botol Tobago Xima is vifible, one may fleer without the leaft apprehenfion, even in the darkeft night, South Weft 14 leagues, when the rocks of Ville Rete will be rounded at a moderate diftance, and the China feas may be entered by hauling up to the Northward and Weftward. There is a fmall rocky iflet, bearing nearly Eaftof Botol Tobago Xima, feme miles diftant;—and great attention fflould be paid that the former may not be miftaken for the latter. The rocks of Ville Rete are extremely dangerous ; they form in a clufter, and are furrounded by breakers ; the largefl of them is about the height of a fmall fflip's hull out of the water: they bear off the Southend of For- mofa, South Wefterly, five leagues. We thought that, from the maft- head, we could diftinguiffl a channel between them and-Formofa. The laft time we made Botol Tobago Xima it was almoft dark,—the weather ftormy and hazy ; and, very fhortly after, it blew a tremendous gale of wind at Eaft. We fleered South Weft 15 leagues, and hauled up Weft and Weft North Weft, and entered the China feas at midnight, without feeing any thing of Formofa. The longitude of thefe places is laid down by us from good obfervations of the fun and moon. In this run, the general account muft be laid in having a ftrong current fetting to the Weftward, from the moment a fflip puts her head to the Northward^ The land generally made on the coaft of China is about the Pedro Blanco, or White Rock: from thence, within the Loma Iflands, is a fafe paffage to Canton, and no danger of any kind to be apprehended. By this courfe the Prata ffloal, 'whofe dangers are fo well known, is avoided. H If ;:■ VOYAGES TO THE If a fflip enters the China feas by making the Bafflee Iflands, her paflage to Canton may be endangered, from the ftrong Southerly cur- •rents at that feafon. This paflage, therefore, is not fo fecure as the former, particularly as the Spaniards have feized thefe iflands, and eftablifhed a force on them, though at prefent of no great ftrength or power. The Bafflee Iflands, however, are bold and fafe;—we were here in . 1786, and procured refrefflments. It may not be generally known that the Spaniards have taken pofleffion of them. But fo it is ; and a governor re- fides on Grafton Ifle, with about an hundred foldiers, feveral officers, a \ few priefts, and five or fix pieces of cannon, which are mounted before his houfe; but without fortification or defences of any kind. Our ftay at thefe iflands was fo fflort, as not to afford us an opportunity of attaining any thing but a very general information^, concerning ; them ; but, as very few fhips have ever been known to vifit the Bafflee iflands, it may not only fatisfy curiofity, but be of ufe to the Oriental- navigation, to offer fuch intelligence as we poffefs from our own ob&r- I vation, or the information of others. Thefe iflands, which are fituated between Formofa and Luconia, are five in number,—befides four fmall rocky iflets, which, however, are covered with verdure. Dampier gave the following names to the five larger of them : Grafton Ifland, which is the moft confiderable,—Monmouth Ifland, which is the next in fize,—Goat Ifland, Orange Ifland, and Bafflee Ifland, which are much fmaller than the two former. They are inhabited by a race of ftrong, athletk'men, who have been hitherto happy in a foil that produced every thing neeeflary for their fupport and 1 comfort t NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, comfort:—But we cannot fuppofe that the happinefs thefe people pof- 1788 feffed will find any addition from the yoke of Spain, F£BRUA Orange Ifland lies North and South, and is almoft inacceffible on every fide : it is entirely flat at the top : at the diftance of four leagues, on approaching it from the China feas, the peak on Grafton Ifle is ve'r^Pl difcerndble over this high flat. We fflould fuppofe, that the ifland is fifty feet above the level of the fea. On the North of this ifland, are four rocky ifles, called Anfon's Rocks ; two of them are within three miles of the North end of the ifland.—We entered this paffage and difcovered no danger : a large fhip might even brufh herfides.againft Orange Ifland. The other two fland four or five miles from the former, and from that paffagje which Lord Anfon made in the Centurion. Grafton Ifland is fituated to the Eaft of Orange Ifland ; ftands nearly. North and South, is of confiderable extent, being about thirteen leagues in''cyrci»ftifer'ence, and has a good anchorage on the Weftern fide. About two miles to the Southward of the town where the governor refides, is a fmall fandy bay, where we anchored in nine fathoms, about half a mile from the fhore ; the foundings gradually decreafing from forty fathoms to nine fathoms ; but the bank does not run off more than two miles. The latitude of the fhips pofitiofc was 200 36' North, and longitude, £jg. obfervation of fun and moon, 1220 Eaft of Greenwich. The appearance of this ifland is extremely beautiful and luxuriant ; and the fupplies we received very well anfwered to the charming fcene of their produdion. The" natives brought us abundance of the fineft yams in the world, with fugar cane, taro root, plantain and other vege- H 2 tables : VOYAGES TO THE tables r we alfo received hogs and goats in great plenty, but very little poultry. Iron was the favourite commodity of thefe people, though beads, at times, feemed to poffefs an equal, if not fuperior value.— Indeed, fince the Spaniards have pofleffed themfelves of thefe iflands, money,as well as iron are in ufe among them. In the time of Dampier, beads were the only medium of their commerce. We left the governor a breed of Bengal ffleep, which, when put on fhore, roamed in a clover . pafture, and on a foil of exuberant fertility. There can be no doubt ' but that thofe animals will thrive in their new abode, and that future navigators flopping at thefe iflands, will meet with a plentiful fupply. The water on the ifland is very fine, in great abundance, and clofe to the beach ; a fmall refervoir being formed there, which is fupplied by a rivulet that flows from the mountains, A Spanifh force arrived at thefe iflands fome time in the year 1783, to take poffeffion of them ; with what view it is, by no means, difficult to conjecture, when it is known that they were fuppofed to contain mines of gold. We certainly faw a confiderable quantity of gold duft in the poffeffion of the natives, and feveral fmall pieces which, in all probability, had been waffled down by the torrents from the mountains, and found in the beds of the rivulets with which thefe iflands abound. Thefe, fome of which wepurchafed, were manufaclured into thick wire, and worn as ornaments in their ears, or about the necks of the children. They are well inhabited by a race of inoffenfive people, whofe chief delight confifts in drinking a liquor called bafflee, which is diftilled from rice and the fugar cane. In the evening, men, women and children meet in crowds ou the fflores, with torches in their hands and drink bafflee till they are intoxicated, when they engage in dancing, and difplay every NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, every mark of-fatisfa&ion and contentment. It is, however, very much to be feared that thefe iflanders muft have already found a mortifying interruption to their feftive pleafures, from the tyranny and bigotry of Spanifh dominion. The weather in the South Weft Monfoon is extremely tepipeftuous; and when gales of wind blow here, they are of the moft ftormy and violent nature. The currents and tides run rapid and ftrong, particularly along the Southernmoft of thefe iflands, all of which are low;, it is neeeflary, therefore, that fhips fflould give them a good birth in their paffage between thefe iflands and Fonnofa. 'VOYAGES TO THE CHAP. V. Departure of the Felice from Samboingan.—Pafs the Felice's Ifles.— Mention of the Orders and InflruSions given by the Merchants Proprietors for performing the Voyage.—Extraordinary Change in the Temper of the Buffaloes received on board.—Pafs the Iftand of Magindanao.—Rapidity of the Currents.—Efcape the Ifland of Providence.—Pafs the Talour Iflands. — Ifland of Sanguir. — See the North Cape. — Impoffibility of Weathering it.—Invariablenefs of the Trade Winds in the Pacific Ocean.— Bear up to Leeward of the North Cape,—Pafs the Ifland Riou.— ■ The Channel between Morintay and the Ifland of Jelolo.—Fragrance of the Air.—Pafs the Southern Extremity of Morintay.—Reach, the Sea.— The Latitude of Morintay afcertained. ON the 12th of February, at day break, we had loft fight of Samboingan, and purfued bur courfe along the coaft of Magindanao : the latitude at noon was 6° 34' North, and the extreme part of the ifland in fight, bore Weft North Weft, diftant twelve leagues. The ifland of Bafilan bore from South Weft by South, to Weft North Weft four leagues: in this pofition the hill we have already mentioned as refembling a Mandarin's cap, was very confpicuous. We obferved two fmall iflands fituated between Magindanao and Bafilan, bearing North by Eaft, diftant four miles: they were not of any great extent, but entirely covered with wood. As they bore no place on the charts, they were named Felice's Ifles. ' NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. A confiderable current had fet us during the night to the North i Eaft; the wind blew frefh from the Northward and Southward,- and Feb at funfet we could but juft difcern the ifland of Magindanao. Previous to our departure from Samboingan and feparation from the Iphigenia, the orders and inftrudions marked Number II. in the' Appendix, were delivered to Captain Douglas, for the guidance of his future condud. Thofe marked Number I. were delivered by the merchants proprietors before our departure from China. Thefe in- ftrudions contain at large the motives to, and real objeds of, the voyage ; and it will not furely be erring from the truth, if it is afferted, ' that they do not contain a fingle expreflion inconfiftent with that huma- ' nity, or derogatory of thofe principles which it is the honour of Britifh merchants to adopt, in coududing their commerce in the different quarters of the globe. Thefe orders and inftrudions may be faid, without any fear of contradidion, to breathe, in every part of them, that fpirit of benevolence and juftice, and to contain thofe honeft incitements to in- duftry,.which, in whatever part of the habitable earth they are exerted or. employed, muft ultimately tend to the honour of humanity, and the advantage of our country. On the 13th, we continued our courfe, with light and variable winds ; Wedn the weather fultry and cloudy. By fix in the evening, we. had lod fight of the South Weftern extremity of Magindanao ; off which we had perceived an ifland of a remarkable appearance, that wore the form of a mountain, whofe fides fflelved almoft perpendicularly to the fea.. During the night we had heavy rain;—our courfe was to the Southward and Eaftward; to clofe in with the South Eaft end of Magindanao, which, VO YAG E S TO THE on the following morning, we had confiderably neared; when we found it f* to be high and mountainous, and entirely covered with wood from the fea to its fummit. We frequently founded, but procured no ground with one hundred fathoms of line. The latitude at noon was 6° 2' North, at four P. M. the extreme point of Magindanao in view, bearing Eaft half North, diftant eight leagues ; we hauled to the Eaft South Eaft to double the Southern extremity. • An extraordinary change now took place in the fpirit and temper of the buffaloes which we had received on board at Samboingan. > They were fo extremely wild and fierce, that it was with great difficulty and fome danger w.e were able to embark them; and fo dexterous are they in the management of their horns, that even the natives did not venture to approach them in their new fituation. But the natural ferocity of their nature feemed at once to abandon them, and they were already become fo tame as to eat out of the hand, and were adually much lefs vicious than our other cattle. On this, morning, we found that a confiderable current had fet us to the Southward- of Magindanao. It bore from us North, diftant about 11 leagues : the Southern extremity formed an high promontory, which wore the appearance of an ifland. We now congratulated ourfelves on entering the Northern Pacific Ocean with fo little trouble; but this fatisfadion was very much di- miniffled from the unfavourable ftate of the wind, which we found to blow from Eaft North Eaft. The latitude at noon was 40 58' North, and the longitude 1260 36' Eaft of Greenwich. At this time we perceived two fmall iflands, bearing South South Eaft, diftant five leagues; 5 and . NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 6- and the promontory of Magindanao was yet in fight, bearing North, 1788. diftant 13 leagues. februart. The current now fet us fo ftrongly to the Southward, that we could not weather the two little ifles feen in the South South Eaft; and perceiving a clear channel between them of a mile and an half, we determined to pufh through it. Thefe iflands are lofty, and covered with wood. From the North and South points of the Northenimoft ifland, there runs a fpit of land for half a mile; and fome detached rocks from the Northernmofl point, at about a mile diftance: on thefe rocks we obferved a few feattered trees, which render them very remarkable. When in mid-channel between the iflands, we founded, and had fixty fathoms, with white and red fflells. We had fcarce pafled through, when the Southernmoft ifland opened into two diftind ones, With the appearance of a channel between them. At the fame time, we faw another ifland, bearing Eaft South Eaft, diftant four leagues, which was alfo covered with wood ; and from the maft-head we difcerned a dangerous ffloal and reef of rocks, which extend near three miles from its South End, and are very remarkable from their whitenefs. Another ifland appeared on the lee-beam bearing South South Eaft, diftant eight leagues; and, in this pofition, the promontory of Magindanao bore Eaft North Eaft, diftant 18 or 20 leagues. Our fituation differed, at this time, from every chart in our poffeffion ; it became neeeflary, therefore, to proceed with the utmoft precaution through this archipelago, .The North Cape on the Ifland of Morintay, by our account, bore Eaft North Eaft 134 miles; and the Cape of Good Hope, or Northern extremity of New Guinea, South Eaft, 470 miles. The wind kept fteadily to the Eaft North Eaft ; and as we pafled thofe iflands, we found ourfelves drifted almofl bodily to leeward V O YAG E S TO THE by a rapid Southerly current. Such a continuation of unfavourable circumftances left us no very flattering profped of being able to weather the North Cape ; befides, we were not without apprehenfions that we fflould be obliged to bear away, and run through fuch a dangerous clufter of iflands as the Moluccas ; a navigation which is confidered as the moft dangerous in the Indian feas. We were not, however, without fome expedations, that the near vicinity of the Sun to the Line would produce fome abatement of the influence of the North Eaft Monfoon. But, after all, taking both the favourable and unfavourable circumftances in a proper point of view, with the dark and tedious nights, the courfe before, us could not be confidered but as replete with difficulties and perils, both of which muft be greatly augmented, if tempeftuous weather fflould unfortunately overtake us. The current, like a vaft, but fteady, rapid ftream, fwept us bodily to leeward :—it ran, at leaft, three miles an hour ; and we had every reafon to believe, that it ran much ftronger as it approached the Straits of Macaffar. Indeed, it fwept us away fo much, that we were not able to reach the ifland feen in the South Eaft by Eaft quarter, by five leagues, j During the night of the 15th, we had a great deal of wind, but the fea was uncommonly fmooth ; a certain fign that we were in the vicinity | of fome great body of land. We kept fleering to the South Eaft by Eaft, with a fteady gale to the Northward and Eaftward. T.'ie courfes were hauled up in the brails, in order to fee more diftiudly, and to, be in a ftate of preparation to haul upon either tack, to avoid any immediate or preffing danger. Thefe precautions proved to be extremely neceffary ; for about midnight we difcovered, by the light of the moon, that we were clofe to an ifland, covered with a white fand, and almoft. on a level with the water. We very fortunately perceived this dangerous objed, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 6 objed, near half a mile from us ; -and had fufficient time to put the helm 1788. a weather, and bear up to leeward. We then founded, but found no Februarv ground with an hundred fathoms of line. We continued, however, to give it a good birth until two in the morning, when we loft fight of it, and then refumed our courfe to the Eaft South Eaft, with a frefh gale from the North Eaft. Thefe low, fandy iflands, which are fcattered every where near the Line, render the navigation of thofe parts of a very perilous nature. No foundings can be obtained fo warn the navigator of the approaching danger : fo that in a dark night no vigilance or precaution is fufficient to fecure him from the imminent hazard of deftrudion. At fun-rife, land appeared, extending from North Weft to Weft, at Satardsi" the diftance of 16 leagues. The fmall, low, fandy iflet feen in the night, we judge to lie in the latitude of 40 i' North, and in the longitude of 1270 1 o'Eaft, to which we gave the name of Providence Ifland. At noon, the latitude was 30 32' North. During the laft twenty-four hours, we experienced a current that fet the fhip thirty-three miles to the Southward. The longitude was 1270 58' Eaft. Land was now {eea in almoft every diredion, extending from Eaft North'Eaft to Weft North Weft ; and, to the Northward and Eaftward, appeared broken and detached, as if compofed of a groupe of iflands. The Weftward land Was diftant from us about 15 leagues. At fun-fet, the body of the windward ifles bore North North Eaft, at the diftance of 14 leagues. Our ppfition was now extremely doubtful; nor could we .reconcile it to any of the charts on board, We were, indeed, inclined to fuppofe, that the land to the North North Eaft confifted of thofe iflands named the Talour, and the land to the Weftward I 2 the L VOYAGES TO THE the Ifland of Sanguir. If our conjedures were right, the currents muft have aded on us with great force in fetting us to the' Southward; and it now became a matter of painful uncertainty if we fflould be able to weather the North Cape; which was an objed of the utmoft importance. We had, indeed, flattered ourfelves, that, on our approach to the Line, we fhould have experienced variable winds ; but hitherto the wind flood, as it were, Immovably to the Eaft; nor did it feem inclined to give us . a point of advantage. Our prefent fituation, therefore, as well as our future profped, was clouded with uncertainty; and the chance was but too probable that we fflould be driven to leeward of Jelolo, and confe- quently be forced to encounter a navigation of the moft difficult nature.. We were fully convinced, that, if the North Cape could not be weathered, a paflage muft be attempted through the Moluccas, to the Southward of Jelolo, where there was good reafon to exped that we fflould meet, if not the North Weft Monfoon, at leaft with fuch variable winds as would allow us to re-enter the Northern Pacific Ocean by PittV Straits ; but even then, it was by no means certain, whether we fflould be able to weather the coaft of New Guinea; nor could we reflect,: without extreme mortification, on being obliged to run down its Weftern coaft, and, by Endeavour's Straits, to reach the Southern Ocean ; as fuch a courfe, during which the long and dark nights would continually obflrud and delay our progrefs, muft, in the end, totally defeat the purpofe of our voyage.—On the other hand, if we flood to the North, in order t© beat round New Guinea, againft a ftrong monfoon, there • was every reafon to believe that we fflould fail in our purpofe : indeed, we found it neeeflary to give it up, from the evident impoffibility of effeding it, without a great wafle of that time of which we had fo little to fpare. Thefe difficulties were of a nature not eafily to be overcome ; NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, come; and.the event proves how narrowly we efcaped from encountering 178 the very obftacles which our apprehenfions had placed before us. Feb*™ During the night of the 16th, we continued fleering to the Eaft South Eaft under a prefs of fail. The moon fhone clear and bright, fo that any danger round the horizon would have been readily dif- cerned. On the morning of the 17th, land was feen a-head, bearing in the Sunday diredion of Eaft, at the diftance of 12 leagues; and to leeward, land was alfo feen bearing South South Weft. The latitude at noon was 20 40' North. The North Cape now bore from us Eaft, Northerly, at the diftance of 14 leagues. The wind blew fteadily from the North Eaft and Eaft North Eaft, with a ftrong Southerly current. We continued clofing in with the North Cape, in expedation of re- Mend* ceiving the advantage of a land wind ; when, at fix in the evening, being within two miles of the ifland of Morintay, we were obliged to tack and fland to fea for the firft time.—We could not find any foundings with an hundred fathoms of line.—But although we were fo unfortunate as to fall to leeward of the North Cape, we were determined not to relax in our endeavours, till we were convinced of the impradica- bility of weathering it; and it was with this view we tacked and flood to fea. By ten o'clock in the morning, we were again clofe in with the ifland of Morintay, having tacked at midnight for the fhore ; but neither at fea, or clofe in with the land, were we fo fortunate as to experience any alteration of the wind in our favour. We had alfo the mortification to obferve, that the Southerly currents had fet us during VOYAGES TO THE 788. the night, bodily to leeward'of the pofitlon we had occupied on the ruary. preceding evening. At noon the latitude was 2° 35' North, and we had entirely loft fight of the North Cape, which now bore Eaft by North, diftant if leagues, immediately in the wind's eye. The impradicability of effediug our objed was now become fo apparent, as to embarrafs our fituation with a choice of difficulties. We difcovered, however, a narrow channel between a fmall ifland, bearing South South Eaft, at the diftance of four leagues, and the ifland of Morintay. Jelolo was alfo very difcernible ; the Northernmofl point of which bore South Weft, diftant only 13 leagues. Between this point and the ifland we have juft mentioned, there appeared an extenfive channel; we had, therefore, no other alternative, but to make our paflage through it, and- round the Southern extremity of Morintay, without rifking any more of our time, which was now fo precious, in fruitlefs endeavours to weather the North Cape againft winds, currents, and fea. We were perfedly aware, that, having once entered upon this courfe, there would be no poffibility of returning; as well as that it might entangle us in the fhoals of Jelolo and the deep gulph of Chiauw, which is alfo filled with fhoals and fhallows, and into Which the monfoon perpetually blows, backed by conftant currents. Such a combination of circumftances were more than fufficient to convince us, that in profe- cuting our prefent defign we muft be governed by an unremitting perfe- verance. Accordingly, at noon, we bore up for the channel between the iflands Riou and Jelolo ; and by four P. M. it was open, and appeared of fufficient breadth to navigate ; but in the middle feveral fmall, low, and fandy iflands were fituated, which might, in fome meafure, interrupt, if not endanger the navigation of the channel; we, therefore, purfued our courfe along the coaft of Riou, at the diftance of two miles : —the NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. t-the land was every where covered with wood to the water's edge; but, as far as we could difcover, without the veftige of an habitation. We could not obtain foundings with forty fathoms of line. At half paft four, the high mountains of Jelolo appeared to rear their fummits above the horizon, which immediately fettled the critical nature of our fituation. We had now advanced fo far, that any attempt to return would have been the extreme of folly ;—the channel was already pafled, but the Ifland of Morintay extended a great deal farther to the Southward than any of the charts had laid it down:---Riou was alfo pafled; and now a deep, capacious channel was formed by Jelolo and Morintay, of near 12 or 13 leagues in extent. The great gulph of Chiauw was now under our lee;—a range of low, fandy iflands, conneded with fhoals, were fituated about five leagues off Morintay, in the channel along, which we fleered. The moon fflone very bright, or we fflould not have ventured to proceed during the night. The wind blew ftrong from the North Eaft; and men were conftantly kept in both chains, to attend to the foundings, as well as on the yards, to look out for broken water, or any other circumftance of danger. As we pafled thofe iflands, the fhoals appeared very plain, at the diftance of about four miles, and we could fee a dreadful furf rolling over them. Our foundings were now from fix, feven, to eight fathoms, very regular, and over an hard, fandy bottom. On getting more out into the channel, we hadfourteen, twenty, and fome- times even thirty fathoms, with the fame kind of ground. Thefe iflands extend near five leagues, North and South,—are about five leagues from Morintay, and eight from Jelolo. We think it would be increafing the incidental hazards of this channel to-pafs between the iflands and Morintay, as we found a ftrong and rapid current fetting us almoft due South. 5 V O YAG E S TO THE It was greatly to our mortification that we pafled this channel during the night, as we were thereby prevented, from fending boats on fhore to examine the nature of the foil, and to look for turtle, as low, fandy iflands are places where they are generally found. In our paflage we perceived the air to be ftrongly perfumed with fpicy odours ; fome of us even imagined they could diftinguiffl the peculiar fragrance of the As we cleared this chain of iflands and fhoals, we kept as clofe to the wind as poffible, to near, once more, the South end of Morintay, which we happily effeded by break of day on the 19th, being only three leagues from it. We kept fleering thus till noon, when the latitude was i° 47', the extremes of the ifland of Riou bearing from South Weft by Weft, to South Weft, one half South, diftant nine leagues; and the extremes of Jelolo bearing from South South Weft, to South Eaft, diftant eleven leagues: in this pofition the channel we had failed through was entirely clofed. < Our courfe was continued to the Eaft South Eaft, with the wind from the North Eaft, but light, till the 20th ; when at noon, we had, to our great joy, a confiderable offing towards the fea; the latitude was i°c6' North, the ifland of Morintay bearing from South by Weft, half Weft to Weft by North, half North, diftant fixteen leagues ; and the ifland of Jelolo bearing from South by Weft to South Weft, diftant fourteen leagues. Thus we moft happily reached the fea, without any material lofsoftime, and through a channel which, in any other fituation, we fflould not have ventured to pafs ; though we faw nothing to prevent a fhip pafling it with eafe and fafety, by following the example of our precaution, and attending to the particular circumftances which have been juft related;—The bearings are marked with all poffible care and fidelity, for NORTH WEST GOAST OF AMERICA. for the benefit of any navigator, who, from preference or neceffity, may think proper to follow our courfe. ] From Magindanao we had hitherto experienced a continuance of ftrong currents, fetting to the South and South Weft; the wind invariably at North Eaft; and, in the whole track, from that ifland to Morintay, we have noticed moft of the dangers which lie between them, Wecoufider the Southern extremity of the ifland of Morintay to be ia the latitude of i° 40' North, and the longitude 1280 Eaft of Greenwich:— The land which was feen on the 16th, muft have been, as we then con- jedured, the Talour Ifles, and the Ifland of Sanguir. CHAP. L VOYAGES TO THE CHAP. VI. Ship's-Courfe purfued to the Eaftward.—Currents fet her to the Ifland of Wagiew.—Symptoms of the Scurvy among the Crew.—Wind veers, for the ' ■ firft Time, to the North Weft.—Pafs Wagiew and ihe dangerous Tatee Ifles.—Freewill Ifles feen.—Natives come on Board.—Their Joy at feeing IrQn,—Some Account of thofe Ifles.—Their Latitude and Longitude, &c.— The ftrong Currents in their Vicinity. NO material occurrence happened till the 22d ; the courfe was kept at to the Eaft South Eaft; the wind blew fleadily from the North Eaft, and we daily experienced a Southerly current. At this time the I Northern extremity of New Guinea bore from us in- the diredion of Eaft South Eaft, diftant 120 leagues, when we faw land, bearing Eaft South Eaft, to Weft by North, at the diftance of about nine leagues"! from the' body of it. The land to the Weftward we concluded to be the Ifland of Wagiew, which forms the Northernmoft part of Pitt's Straits; but of the land to the Eaft. we could form no conjedure, as I none appeared to be marked on the charts in that diredion. The latitude at noon was only 22' North of the Line, and the longitude was 1310 io'Eaft of Greenwich. At this time the Ifland of Wagiew extended from South Eaft by Eaft, to Weft, and our diftance from the body of it might be about fix leagues. In this fituation we were drifting bodily to leeward on Wagiew, and found it to be almoft impoflible to double the extremity of this ifland, much NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. much lefs New Guinea, without fome favourable alteration of the winds, which had hitherto never varied from the North Eaft ; befides, the F ftrong Southerly currents had now fet the fflip thus far, fothat we were altogether in a fituation furrounded with circumftances of uncertainty and embarraflinent. We fcarce knew how to exped a change that would be propitious ; and, neverthelefs, a patient expedation of it feemed to be almoft the only refource, fuch as it was, that remained to us. The weather was extremely fultry, but the winds were light, which was the only favourable circumftance of which we could boaft. A perfevering fpirit, however, femetimes furmounts dangers that appear to be infurmountable, and we determined to continue the exertion of it. This day, at noon, we had made no progrefs whatever. The latitude " was o° 20' North of the Line; and the longitude was 131° 30' Eaft. We were now diftant only five leagues from Wagiew, which extended from Eaft: South Eaft, to Weft South Weft. The land bore a very different appearance from that which we had hitherto feen:—it was extremely high, compofed of broken and detached hills, and prefented, as far as we could difeover, a very barren afpeSt.—It ran due Eaft and Weft, and all the hills {helved abruptly into the fea. We could procure no foundings with one hundred and fifty fathoms of line. A fmall ifland was alfo perceived in the North Eaft quarter. Thus were we approaching every moment nearer to the land, without any profped of fuch a change as would reward our perfeverance.— We had now been purfuing, for a long month, an intricate and fatiguing navigation, without having made any confiderable progrefs. The fultry heats alfo began to affed feveral of our people ; and the expedation of the tedious paflage to America,'with which we were threatened, rendered K2 the VOYAGES TO THE the- crew not? only dffkisfied, but defpondent. Symptoms of the fcurvy had' begun to appear, in fpite of our ftrid adherence to thofe admirable rules of regimen fo happily conceived, and fuccefsful'l'y pradifed by Captain Cook. We had now redoubled our attentions to keep off the internal enemy that threatened us, with an anxious expedation of fuccefs, but we know not how fa* that would have been gratified, if an alteration had not taken place with us, which enlivened the drooping fpirits of the crew, and animated' them to new endeavours. At four in the evening of this day, when we were within three leagues of the ifland, the wind fprung up on a fudden from the North Weft, which was the firft favour- • able change we had experienced fince our departure from Samboingan. We took an immediate advantage of this fortunate circumftance in our favour; the courfe was altered to the North Eaft, and all fail fet; fo that, at fun-fet, we had got a confiderable diftance from Wagiew. More land was now feen a-head, which was very low, and-, from its detached, broken appearance, we judged to be a groupe of iflands. During the night we kept {landing to the North Eaft, immediately for the land, and the wind continued to the Weft North Weft, which enabled us to keep our courfe till day-break on the twenty-fourth, when we found ourfelves within three leagues of the land feen on the preceding evening It confifted of feveral iflands, as we had conjedured, which were very low , entirely covered with wood, and furrounded by ■ ffloals and reefs of rocks, and appeared to be of confiderable extent. They bore from North Weft, to North Eaft by Eaft, and were diftant from each other about five miles. As no fuch iflands were placed on the charts, we thought proper to name them the Tatee Ifles, from the word, which was continually vociferated NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ciffer^Sdr by the few' natives who came within hearing of the fflip. i They are fituated in o° 20' of North latitude, and in the longitude of Feb 1320 2' Eaft of Greenwich. They are very dangerous to approach, efpe- crally in the night, and the fflip that fhould be tempted to pafs through them, wouM- inevitably be loft. We faw feveral canoes paddling between the reefs; and two of them, containing each five of the natives, approached very near to the fhip, vociferating the word Tatee, Tatee, with great- violence ; but no temptation on our part could prevail on them to come along-fide, though we held up many of thofe articles which we thought the moft likely to entice them to a nearer communication with us.—They regarded the fflip with much apparent wonder; and, from their various antic geftures, we h.-.d gr®at reafon to fuppofe that they had never before feen fuch an objed. They appeared fo be of the fame race as the Papua people, woolly-headed, perfedly black, and with the features of the African negroes ; but in their forms flout and athletic. They held long fpears in their hands, pointed with bone, which they, from time to time, bfandi-ffled at us. Their canoes were of a peeuiktf, and very curious conftrudion;— they were very-narrow and long, and, to keep them on a balance, a large out-rigger run out on one fide, with net-work between, made with ftrong cord, manufadured from the rind of the cocoa-nut. On this, which formed a kind of a ftage, were placed their arms, implements for fiffling, &c. We wifhed very much to fend boats on fhore, but as the fflip could not approach near enough to the land for the purpofe of pro- tedingthem, on account of the fhoals, we thought k highly imprudent to expofe our men to any hazard. Towards VOYAGES TO THE Towards noon, to our great joy, the wind frefflened up from the North Well, when we bid adieu to the Tatee Ifles, and purfued our courfe to the Northward and the Eaftward, every league of which was become of the utmoft confequence. At funfet, the extremes of the Tatee Ifles bore from us Eaft by South, to South Eaft by Eaft, diftant five leagues ; the tops of the trees jufl appearing above the water. At this time the extremities of Wagiew bore from South Weft by South, to South Weft by Weft, diftant 10 leagues. We now purfued our courfe till the 27th, with a favourable, but, in general, alight wind. It thundered and lightened with great violence, and the weather was extremely clofe and fultry. The thermometer was, at this time, at 88°, and very often at 920. At noon the latitude was 56 minutes North, and the longitude 1360 35' Eaft of Greenwich. Land; or rather trees, were defcried from the maft-head, bearing from Eaft by South, to South Eaft by Eaft: when we were tolerably near them, the currents ran very ftrong to the "South South Weft: as we were not able to weather the Northernmoft, we bore up to the leeward of it, and there now appeared to ' be four fmall ifles, the largeft of which was not more than five leagues in circumference. We ranged within three miles of the fhore, when we obferyed a large village fituated on the fhore of the ifland, in the midft of a grove of cocoa-nut trees ;'every other part appeared to be an entire foreft, without one interval of cultivation. We were very foon vifited by a great number of canoes, containing, altogether, at leaft five hundred natives, all men. Each of thefe canoes held fix or feven people, and were of the fame conftrudion as thofe of the Sandwich Iflands. The natives alfo bore the appearance, and to our great aftonifhment, fpoke the language of the inhabitants of thofe ifles; 5 and r NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. and the refult of our obfervation is a conjedure, amounting almoft to a firm belief, that they are of the fame race. They came along-Me the fhip without ceremony and without arms, and fupplied us with a confiderable quantity of freffi gathered cocoa-nuts and coir line, which was repaid by bits of iron hoop, of about an inch in length. 1788. When the piece of iron was held up to their attention, they were all feized with a kind of filent, but expreffive joy, that cannot be defcribed': but the man who procured it, immediately began to caper and dance round the deck, and laying down on his back, tumbled and rolled about In fuch an extraordinary manner, that we really imagined he was fud- denly affeded by fome very lingular diforder, till he rofe up and kiffed the bit of iron with thofe emotions of extravagant joy, which manifefted the extreme delight he felt at being in the poffeffion of what he efteemed fo great a treafure. His comrades, from.an anxious curiofity to fee it, crowded round him ; but in a moment he had plunged bimfelf into the fea, and then turning his head.towards us, and again killing the bit of iron, he fwam haftily to the fhore. Several iron hoops were now-ordered to be cut up, and each of'our vifitors was gratified with a bit of the precious metal, who all left us with reiterated expreflions of the moft grateful acknowledgement. Thefe iflanders are of a frank, amiable and confidential difpofition ; and they found in return, that kind of reception from us, which they will not quickly forget. We obferved, however, in their canoes large mats, which, on enquiry, they informed us were ufed by them as coats of mail, and were capable of refifling the attack of a fpear ; indeed, fo clofe and ftrong is their texture, that at a'very fmall diftance, they could fcarcely be penetrated by a ball from a piflol. It appeared, therefore, and the refledion is not of a pleafing nature, that thefe amiable people knew VOYAGES TO THE, knew the arts, and, of cou^sfe, muft frequently feel the horrors of war ; and that the god of battle beholds his »i<3ims in the remoteft corners of the globe. This groupe of iflands was originally difcovered by Captain Carfare?, in his voyage round the world. He was pleafed to give them the name of the Freewill Ifles, from the frank and unreferved condud of the inhabitants. It may not. perhaps, be generally'remembered, that one of them . accompanied him in the Swaljow:—He was called Tom Freewill, and died in his paffage to the Celebes. The interval that had elapfed, from the period of Capt$ifi'^ C/ajS)3Sg$V vifit to thefe iflands, to the time of our appearance beforp them, occupied fo confiderable a fpace, that this • young man's departure with him, might very naturally be fuppofed to have been forgotten by his countrymen. But, on the contrary, feveral of the natives pointed to the fflip, and then to fea, and by other fignificant geftures gave Us. to under- ftand, that one of them had been carried away. As we were well, acquainted with the circumftance from Captain Carteret's journal, we, in return, informed them that their fugitive countryman was no moare: I when they all entered into an immediate conference, and.-Bbfea mtmvmd their communications, with an air of perfed indifference. At leaft there did not appear to -be any one among them who, as a friend or relation, expreffed the leaft concern for poor Tom Freewillrs fate ! We now. refumed our courfe to the North Eaft, with a gentle gale from the Weft North Weft. On palling to the Northward of the iflands, we obferved that they were conneded by very dangerous reefs of rocks, which extended three or four miles, in every diredion. At fibsfe^|l i the . NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 8 the body of the iflands bore North North Weft, at the diftance of four 1788. IfeagUes. February. The weather on the 28th became fqually ; the wind veering conti- Thurfdayss nually from North to North Eaft, fo that we feldom made good our courfe better than Eaft, or Eaft by South. At noon the latitude was o° 55', the winds light,* with heavy fqualls of rain, and much thunder and lightning. On the 29th in the morning, as we were {landing to the North, with Friday z9 a light air from the South" Eaft, land was difcovered from the mafl-head; as we ranged up wkh it, We found it to be the Freewill Ifles. 1 This was a circumftance which We could not eafily reconcile ; and as the iflands in this ocean bear a ftrong refemblance to each other, we, at firft, thought that we muft be miftaken; but the point was feon fettled by the arrival of many of our late friends, who came paddling through the reefs to bring us a prefent of cocoa-nuts, for which, they were with feme difficulty perfuaded to take any thing ill return. One man, in particular, held up a bit of iron which he had received from us but two days before, as a token that he remembered his benefadors. At noon the latitude was i° 7' North ; and, by a medium of the feveral diftances of the fun and moon, the longitude was 1370 io' Eaft. The body of Freewill Ifles now bore South Eaft half Eaft, at the diftance of four leagues ; which leaves them in thefatitude of o° 56' North of the Line, and in the longitude of 1370 Eaft of Greenwich. The currents muft on the 28th have fwept us bodily to leeward ; but, as we imagined, not with fo much force as to occafion our falling in again with thefe iflands;—on the contrary, we found that, on L ' {landing VOYAGES TO THE {landing to the North, for the laft twenty-four hours, though we were fleering Eaft, our courfe was not much better than South, a little Eafterly. We did not lofe fight of thefe iflands till the firft of March ; when, at noon, our latitude was l° 40' North ; the wind, as ufual, veering from North Eaft, to Eaft North Eaft. The weather was gloomy, unfettled, and 'very fultry. At times, we had heavy fqualls ,of rain, which proved very unwholefome for the crew, from conftant damps, a clofe atmofphere, and wet cloaths. To thefe unpleafant circumftances may be added, our flow progrefs to the North, which fo affeded their fpirits, and of courfe relaxed their adivity, that all the attention and care of the officers were requifite, to check the progrefs of fuch an alarming evil. NORTH WEST CO^ST OF AMERICA. CHAP. "VII. Extreme Heat of fhe Weather.—Very temfeftuous.Spring the Foremaft.— Lofs of fome of ihe Cattle.—Lofe all the Goats.—DeftrucTwn of many of the Plants intended for the Sandwich Ifles.—Reafons for pointing the Ship's Courfe to the North Weft, &c.—Mode of victualling the Crew. Occupations on Board.—Intention of Building a Veffel of fifty Tons in King George's Sound. —Carpenters complete her Moulds and Model—Chinefe Carpenters ignorant of Ship-building.—Great Burthen of the Chinefe Junks.—Party felebled to remain in King George's Sound.—Experience the Tail of a Tiffoon.—Change of the Monfoons.—Terrible EffeBs of Tiffoons, in the Chinefe Seas and Northern Pacific Ocean. /^VN the 2d of March, the longitude of the fflip, by a medium of Sunday* feveral diftances of the fun and moon, was 1360 ^y' Eaft of Greenwich, and the latitude 2° 52' North. At this time, the variation of the compafs was 2° 30' Eaft, and the quickfilver in the thermometer was at 86, and often at 90, fo that we fuffered 'very much from the extremity »f the heat. The currents very feldom allowed us to make our courfe better than by South Eaft ; and hitherto there appeared no probability of being able to weather New Guinea. We had, indeed, conquered the North Cape; but there remained New Ireland, New Hanover, and many different groupes and clufters of iflands, to the Northward of the Line, and many degrees to the Eaftward of our fituation. If we had purfued our courfe, we L 2 muft \ VOYAGES TO TH'E muft have determined either to proceed through Dampier's Straits, or thofe difcovered by Captain Carteret, which divide New Britain from New Hanover; but if both thefe paffages were rejeded, there was no alternative left but to ftand to the Northward and Weftward ; and to endeavour to obtain as much of the former as would permit us to tack and weather all. On a due confideration of our circumftances and fituation, the laft was preferred; the fhip therefore was tacked, and flood to the North Weft, with the wind at North Eaft,—a point the moft diftreffing to us of the whole compafs. L The flock of freffl provifions we received at Samboingan was fufficient to laft us till this time ; a circumftance which was attended with the twofold advantage of faving the fait provifions, and conducing to the health of the crew. A plentiful allowance of water was continued, as the befe prefervative againft the fcurvy; and, if a diminution of this article fflould be requifite in any part of the paffage, we naturally determined it fhould take place in the colder latitudes, as, at prefent, an extreme and clofe heat required every liquid aid to preferve health, by fuftaining per- fpiration. ' g On the 3d, the weather became extremely tempeftuous. We had continual fqualls from the North Eaft, accompanied- by deluges of rain, which very frequently obliged us to fflorten fail. Our courfe was feldom* better than North Weft, though we fometimes were enabled to make a tack or two to the Eaft South Eaft and Eaft, when the fquall was favourable. In this fituation, at noon, vve found the foremaft dangeroufly fprung below the hounds; every exertion therefore'was required to fecure it, as a very heavy fea occafioned the fflip to pitch exceedingly. The top-maft and top-gallant-maft were accordingly got down on deck, and the NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, the fails unbent; ftages were alfo prepared round the head of the mafl, and the carpenters were immediately employed in preparing fifties. This misfortune was accompanied with feveral others of a very mortify Ing nature. The late bad weather and rolling of the fhip, had deftroyec fome of the cattle and many of the plants, in particular a fine orange- tree, in full bloom; and half of the cinnamon-trees which we had ceived at Samboingan. There, however, yet remained alive one bull and a cow, and one cow calf; but the goats were all killed in one day by a fudden roll of the fhip. Of the plants we ftill pofleffed a lime and an orange-tree, in full vigour, with fix cinnamon, and feveral fmaller plants of various kinds. ' On the 4th, at noon, the latitude, by double altitudes, was f o' North ; and the longitude, deduced from the lafl obfervation of the fun and moon, 137°" 59' Eaft of Greenwich. The wind blew from the North Eaft, and we purfued our courfe to the Eaft South Eaft. The weather was dark and tempeftuous, with heavy fqual-ls of wind and rain, which raifed a confufed fea. It was not till the 5th, that the maft was fecured, the fifhing of which Wednefday s was a bufinefs of no common difficulty; and, after all, we were not without the moft anxious apprehenfions that it would not ftand againft the blowing and ftormy weather we expeded to meet to the Northward of the tropical latitudes. " f|j,• Till the 12th we continued to embrace any favourable moments of the WednefdayI2 wind. Whenever it veered to the Eaft North Eaft, we tacked and flood to the Northward and Weftward; and, if it veered to the North, our courfe was bent to the Eaftward. It feldom, however, permitted our {landing VOYAGES TO THE {landing long on either tack; for it generally blew very ftrong, with heavy fqualls of ram. Our latitude, at noon, was therefore but f 15 North, and the longitude 1440 25' Eaft; and on the 17th, we had advanced no further than 30 25' North, and 1460 30' Eaft. Such was our tedious progrefs, which, together with a continuance of the moft un- pleafaut and unwholefome weather, tended, more or lefs, to difpirit every one on board. But this was not all ; the continual damps, proceeding from the frequent rains, and the people being, from the fame circumftance, fo often, as well as fo long in wet cloathing, together with ■ moift decks, awakened our apprehenfions to encreafing fymptoms of the •feurvy. In this fituation, we doubted very much whether we fflould be able to weather the iflands of New Ireland or New Hanover, which bore off us not only Eaft South Eaft, but many degrees to the Eaftward. We had worked into our prefent pofition immediately in the wind's eye. Some of the difficulties which would probably attend the purfuing of our firft track, have already been mentioned; nor wert we to hope for a change from the fun's near approach to the equinodial. Tedious calms, attended with heavy rains, were naturally to be expeded with a vertical fun. A fmall portion of our voyage was yet performed, and an immenfe track yet lay before us, to reach to the 160th degree of longitude, when we muft neceffarily crofs the Line. According to the manner in which we had proceeded, we fflould not, in all probability, gain that objed before the 10th of April; —on the other hand, if we fleered to the North Weft, we had grounds for expeding a change of wind in our favour, if not the monfoon, by the ift of April: — it was, therefore, again refolved to weather the Philippines, and point our courfe fteadily to the North Weft. With NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. With plenty of water, each man was allowed half a pint of fpirits In the courfe of the day, two-thirds of which were mixed with water, and the remainder, at this time, ferved in its raw ftate, which often proved a falutaiy and cheering cordial in the rainy weather. The provifions were ordered in the beft manner we could conceive to preferve health, or, at leaft, to check the progrefs of difeafe—In the morning and evening tea and fugar were ferved out to the crew;—they had abundance of rice, peas, and barley, which, with flour and fruit, were ferved with every poffible va-< riety they would admit. The pork and beef were always well fleeped, and the conftant ufe of vinegar was called in aid to contribute its fflare towards correding the bad effeds of faked provifions. We kept {landing on to the North Weft, and nothing material hap* . pened, between the laft and the prefent date. The weather was now, indeed become extremely pleafant, and the heavy fqualls of wind and rain which had fo continually diftreffed us, were, for the prefent,. entirely diflipated. At noon the latitude was 21° 2' North, and the longitude 1390 48' Eaft ; the variation of the compafs 40 24' Eaft. During this run we every day faw large flocks of birds, fome of which we perceived to be of that fpecies which never fly far from land. We embraced the opportunity which was afforded us by the prefent favourable weather, to overhaul our fails, and prepare for the tempeftu- ous weather we had every reafon to exped in our progrefs to the North, efpecially near Japan. Two compleat new fuits of fails were prepared,. new roped, lined and middle Hitched ; all the old fails were, at the fame time, put in a tolerable ftate. The coopers, armourers, and other artifans were always properly employed, either in the immediate fervice of the fflip, or according to j their VOYAGES TO THE their fkill, In preparing articles of trade for the American market.— The Chinefe armourers were very ingenious, and worked with fuch a degree of facility that we preferred them to thofe of Europe. The inftruments they employ in their work are extremely fimple, and they very ffl.ortly accompliffl any defign that is placed before them. The carpenters were alfo at work in preparing the moulds and. model for a floop of fifty tons that was defigned to be built immediately on our arrival in King George's Sound, as fuch a veffel would be of the utmoft utility, not only in colleding furs, but in exploring the coaft. Our head carpenter was a young man of much ingenuity and pro- fefflonal fkill, who had ferved his time in London ; but the Chinefe artificers in this branch had not the leaft idea of our mode of naval architecture. The veflels of their nation which navigate the China and adjacent feas, are of a conftrudion peculiar to them. In veflels of a thoufand tons burthen not a particle of iron is ufed ; their very anchors are formed of wood, and their enormous fails made of matting. Yet thefe {tearing bodies of timber are able to encounter any tempefluous weather, hold a remarkable good wind, fail well, and are worked with fuch facility and care as to call forth the aftonifflment of European failors. It was, therefore, a matter of fome difficulty to turn the profeffional {kill of our Chinefe carpenters to a mode of application fo entirely different from their own habitual experience and pradice. A party was feleded from the crew who were to be left on fhore with the artificers, to be employed in building the veffel. This arrangement was made at fuch an early period, in order that the people might be fully prepared, immediately on our arrival in the Sound, to begin thajeintended operations. It is.true that we had no one artriele in ieadinefs for the purpofe; NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. . 8, purpofe ; our timber was Handing' In the forefts of America, the iron 1-788. work was, as yet, in rough bars onboard, and the cordage which .was Afrix- to be formed into ropes, was yet a cable.- Neverthelefs, encouraged by that fpirit of ardent hope which animates man to oppofe the difficulties of life, and invigorates lifeitfelf, we looked forward with a kind of cer-' tain expedation that our purpofe would be effeded, and that the veffel in contemplation would be adually launched fome time in the month of Odober. On the ift of April at noon, the latitude was 220 26'North, and the Tuefday * longitude 1390 38'Eaft. The weather feemed to have acquired a fettled gloom, the clouds were uncommonly black and heavy, and, throughout the day, there was much thunder, and lightning. Numerous flocks of birds paffed us from the windward, making loud noifes in their paflage, as if apprehenfive of bad weather. We alfo paffed - fome rock-weed, which was a fign of being at no very great diftance from land. On the 2d, the thunder and lightning encreafed, without being ac- Wedntfday companied with any confiderable degree of wind. The fea, neverthelefs, was in an unufual commotion, and the fhip pitched fo heavy, that the head-rails were carried away, and fome other injuries fuftained.— Towards noon it became fqually, and we experienced feveral puffs of wind from every point of the compafs, which, with the encreafing darknefs, left us no doubt of the approach of a very violent ftorm.— The top-gallant yards and mails were got down on deck, —the main-fail furled,—the top-fails clofe reefed, and the mizen balanced. All the fails were handed, except the main top-fail, which it was judged prudent to keep abroad : in this fituation we waited the coming of the tempeft ; nor did it difappoint our expedations. At two P. M. the wind M fluffed 1 V O YAG E S TO THE fhifted to the South, and began to blow ftrong in fqualls; the fflip's head was kept to the North Eaft ; it thundered and lightened with great violence, and at half paft three an heavy fquall came from the South Eaft, inftantly followed by another from the South Weft, both of which blew, for a fhort time, with alternate and incredible fury; the latter, however, prevailed, and continued blowing from the South Weft for near an hour. Indeed, the meeting of thefe two fqualls to leeward of us, was tremendous, and the fea was carried to fuch an height as to keep the horizon in a continual foam. Happily for us, we experienced only the tail of this tuffoon or whirlwind ; but, as it "was, we expeded every moment to have the mails fflattered to pieces ; the main top-fail having been fwept away, and frittered to threads. The fea foon rofe to fuch an alarming height, that it became neeeflary to fet the fore-fail and feud before the ftorm, in order to preferve the fhip, which plowed her way with furprifing fwiftnefs. It now blew from the South Eaft with a prodigious fea, before which we kept fleering. Thus we were fcudding along, when, to the leeward of us, we perceived the water to rife many feet above the level of the fea in circles, which formed a beautiful but awful fight; fo that we were obliged to perform the very unpleafant, and, indeed, rather dangerous operation, of heaving to in fuch a high fea, to avoid running into the dreadful vortex before us, which continued, as it were, to fweep the horizon till five o'clock; when this alarming whirlwind fubfided^d- and fettled in an heavy gale from the South Weft, before which we feudded to the North Eaft. To thofe who have read Kempfer's Hiftory of Japan, the violence of this tuffoon will not be confidered as a circumftance that borders on •5 phaeno- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, phaenomeaonj-^ueh Jaogrld gulls o£w'm&btitng grt.eet.Jainperiod?, -aocord- ;*%tothat wfttfer*.th* common diflurbers of thofe feas? though we had feveral old aind experienced feamen in the fflip, wfiio hsd neyer before fegn any tiling df this terribie nature. We, however, confoled otirfelveS jw^h the belief that k was <tfbe eritkral moment wh4ft the Monfoons changed ; more ^rtticulariy as the florm from the Sotrth Wall blew in fuch a fteady current. - Had this florm happened when it was dark, it might have proved fatal; as it was, we were not a little furprifed that fome of the mails or yards were not carried away : however, we were not fufficiently recovered from our alarms, to venture upon fetting much fail during the fucceeding night. The period when the Monfeons change in the China feas, and the Northern Pacific Ocean, is a time that fflould be dreaded by every fhip that navigates them. Thefe changes are generally in the months of April and Odober, though they fometimes happen not only much earlier, but alfo much later in the feafon. That which is confidered as moft dangerous, is the variation from the North Eaft to the South Weft, .whenftbrms very generally trouble thofe feas. They are remarkably violent on the coaft of Japan ; but when they arife into a tuffoon, no power or ftrength can withfland them. The ruin they fometimes occa- fion is almoft incredible;—nor is it lefs difficult to conceive with what fury they blow from every point of the compafs. The Chinefe, dread beyond all meafure, thefe violent hurricanes, which fometimes fweep large villages and their inhabitants to deftrudion : at other times whole harvefts are diffipated by their deftrudive breath, and M 2 famine VOYAGES TO THE famine follows.—From a fimilar caufe, in the year 1787, accompanied with exceffive drought, a moft dreadful dearth prevailed throughout the Southern provinces of China, by which an incredible number of people perifhed. It was no uncommon thing at Canton to fee the famifhed wretch breathing his laft; while mothers thought it a duty to deftroy their infant children, and the young to give the ftroke of fate to the aged, to fave them from the agonies of fuch a dilatory death* NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. CHAP. VIII. Land feen, but prevented from approaching it.—Difcovery of Iflands, which we named Grampus Iftes.—Feel the Weather extremely cold, with the probable~ Reafbn of it.—Number of Birds feen.—Pafs by great Quantities of-Rock- weed.—Difcover aftupendous Rock,wh'tch we named LofsWife.-—The Rafter of an Houfe, and a Piece of Canoe feen floating on the Water.—Tempeftuous Weather.—ATurtle feen fleeping on the Sea, &c—Weather becomes ftormy as the American Coaft is approached.—Crofs the Tracks of the Refolution and Difcovery.—Error of the Ship's Reckoning &c.—A Sea Parrot feen for the firft Time.—Extraordinary Brighfnefs in the Atmofphere, and to what Caufe attributed.—The Coaft of America feen.—Princefs Royal fails out of King George's Sound.—Diftrefs of the Felicjs, &c.—Anchor in Friendly Cove, in King George's Sound. ; (~\N the 3d of April, the weather became moderate, and the florm Thw£day3 fubfided ; but about noon, the wind fflifted to North Weft, and -blew with extreme violence, accompanied-by a ftrong and mountainous 'fea. 'Our courfe was to the Eaft by North, under clofe reefed top-fails and fore-fail. The latitude was 240 56' North, and the- longitude 1430 39' Eaft of Greenwich. Towards night it again moderated, when we made fail:—the wind now fflifted to the Eaft South Eaft, and we flood to the North Eaft till the 4th ; when the wind fixed itfelf in the North Eaft quarter, and Friday+. we accordingly ftbod to the North Weft, with, fine and moderate weather. S In VOYAGES TO THE In this fituation, land was feen bearing Eaft North Eaft, diftant eight leagues, immediately in the wind's eye, which prevented us from approaching it. Our latitude at noon was 240 44' North, and longitude,. deduced from our laft lunar obfervations, 145° 4.1' Eaft of Greenwich. We regretted very much that we were not able to approach this land, as we knew of none in this, part of the Northern Pacific Ocean. As we were fleering to the North Weft, we foon entirely loft fight of it. - On the 5.th, the wind fflifted to the South Eaft, which enabled us to fleer to the North Eaft, when at two o'clock in the afternoon we thought land was vifible. to the Eaft South Eaft ; but the weather was fo extremely hazy, that it could not be afcertained -whether it was land or a fog-bank. At three, however, land was feen in the North Eaft right a-head, but the weather continued to be fo thick and foggy, that the ;1 diredion in which it extended could not be difcerned. At -half paft four, We were abreaft of it, at the diftance of -five or fix miles, when it ap- peared to be an ifland, but of no great ex-tent. It now rained very hard, and the atmofphere remained fo hazy, that our obfervations of the. land were rather imperfed. It however appeared to be one of thofe barren ifles fo frequently found in thefe feas.—Its length might be -fTF- teen or fixteen miles from North to South; the fhore feemed to be inacceflible to boats,-from a great furf beating againft the rocks, which terminated abruptly in the fea. The interior parts of the country -m- peared to be high, and a few folitary trees were very fparingly '{battered on their declivities. We failed along the fflores of this ifland till fix o'clock, when another ifland opened to our view, which- was-fepatated from the former by a channel of three or four leagues. It now blew very ftrong, with rain, and fo thick a fog,'that we could fee no diftaafce a-head. Though NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Though the gale wag fevourable, yet, from the appearance of the weather, it was thought prudent to fflorten fail, and remain under fuch as would enable us to haul to the wind on either tack. The utmofl vigilance and attention was employed to guard as niuch as poffible againft any danger, and we failed, as ufual, all night with the courfes hauled up in the brails. Thefe ifles, of which we could not difcern the number, were named Grampus Ifles, from feeing a large grampus fpouting up water clofe to the fhore, which is a very uncommon fight in thofe feas. The night of the 5th, was very tempeftuous, with conftant rain ; but to confole us for thefe inconveniences, we had a fair gale, with which we made great way to the North Eaft. On the 6th, the wind fflifted to the North Weft, which brought us s clear weather, and blew a fteady gale. At noon the latitude was 270 30' North, and the longitude 1480 37' Eaft. At this time the variation of the compafs was 30 20' Eaft. 1-788. Our progrefs to the North now became very rapid, and we experienced a very fudden tranfition from heat to cold. Having juft left a climate where the heats had been intenfe and oppreffive, it was very natural the adive operations of cold fflould be very fenfibly felt by the whole crew. This circumftance however, enabled us to reduce the allowance of water from a gallon to five pints per man, without any inconvenience whatever arifing from fuch an alteration-. • The favourable gale at North Weft continued till the eighth at noon. Tue The latitude then was 280 58' North, and the longitude 1540 19' Eaft.— Our principal objed was to get to the North as fail as poffible, in order to benefit by the ftrong Wefterly winds, as well as to run down our VOYAGES TO THE longitude in an high latitude. This North Weft gale continued to us the-{harp piercing cold which has been already mentioned. 0 'The next day we paffed by a confiderable quantity of rock-weed, which we imagined to be but lately broken off, and for feveral days we had feen great numbers of birds. We were now confiderably to the Northward of the feveral fmall iflands fcattered either within or about the tropic, in the Northern Pacific Ocean. We could hot, therefore, form any probable conjedure from whence this weed came, and whither the birds retired at night, as they regularly left us about funfet, and took their flight to the Eaft. About nine o'clock In the morning, a fail was defcried from the maft- head, and, in about'half an hour a large fflip was feen from the deck. She appeared to be under an extraordinary croud of fail, aud exhibited a very lingular figure, for not one of us, even with the affiftance of glaffes, could make out which way fhe was {landing. The fight of a fflip in thofe feas was fuch anunufual circumftance, that for fome time conjedure was at a lofs concerning it. At length, however, it was determined to be a galleon^ bound to China from New Spain, and by fome cafualty driven thus far to the' Northward ; though the track of thofe fhips to Manilla, is generally between the parallels of 130 and 140 North latitude. In confequence of this opinion, feveral letters were written to inform our friends in China of our fafety, and the progrefs we had made in the voyage. This extraordinary delufion, for it was no more, continued till we were within two leagues of the objed; when, on viewing it with aglafs, it was difcovered to be an huge rock {landing alone amid the waters.—The firft among us who became fenfible of the deception remained filent, • and diverted themfelves with the ftrange conjedures and humorous obfervations of the NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, the failors, one of whom was fo certain of its being a fflip, that he was convinced he faw her colours. Its appearance did, indeed, very ftrongly refemble a firft-rate man of war, under a croud of fail; and fuch was .its fflape, that, at a certain diftance, it held forth to the eye the form of every particular fail belonging to a fflip. As we ranged up with this rock, our furprife was proportiohably augmented, and the failors were more than difpofed to believe that fome fupernatural power had fuddenly transformed it into its prefent fflape. It obtained the name of Lot's Wife, and is one of the moft wonderful objeds, taken in all its circumftances, which I ever beheld. By noon we were abreaft of it; when it bore Eaft North Eaft four miles. The latitude was 290 50' North, and the longitude 1420 23' Eaft of Greenwich. The vsavmibroke againft its rugged front with a fury proportioned to the;irn'menfe diftance they had to roll before they were interrupted by it. It rofe almoft perpendicular to the height, according to the tables, of near three hundred and fifty feet. A fmall black' rock appeared juft above the water, at about forty or fifty yards from its Weftern edge. There was a cavern on its South Eaftern fide, into which the wafers rolled with an awful and tremendous noife. In regarding this flupendous rock, which flood alone in an immenfe ocean, we could not but confider. it as an objed which had been.able to refill one of thofe great conv.ulfions of nature that change the very form of thofe parts of the globe which they are permitted to defolate. &**& This day, at noon, our latitude was 330 18'North, and the longitude Saturday 1; 1610 Eaft, with a fteady gale from the Southward, We:pafl#d;by a great quantity of rock-weed, and faw feveral large flocks of birds. In, the evening a piece of timber, which appeared to be the rafter of an houfe, N and V O YAG E S TO THE and a piece of a canoe, were feen floating upon the water, and foon after a fpar, that appeared to have been newly cut. Thefe were certain indications of land, and occafioned, if poffible, an added exertion of vigilance, as this part of the Pacific Ocean is entirely unknown. In the evening of this day the weather.became gloomy and overcaft, with every ufual appearance of an approaching florm. It blew ftrong i throughout the night, and on the following dayt ^t noon, the gale was eonfiderably encreafed. The topgallant yards and mails were accordingly got down on deck, and every other precaution taken to provide againft the bad weather that threatened us. Our apprehenfions were fflortly realized; for about four o'clock, it blew with fuch violence from the South, that we were obliged to clofe reef the top fails, and hand the mainfail. The wind was accompanied with fmall rain and thick weather. We pafled by large quantities of weed; and the furface of the fea was covered with a reddifh fpawn, that extended feveral miles. It foon after blew a per fed florm; the top fails were therefore immediately handed, and we feudded before it under a forefail, followed by a very heavy fea.—In this fituation, we were overtaken by a moft violent guft of wind, which made us apprehenfive of fome material damage.—But) very fortunately the topfails had been handed in time, and, the forefail being now reefed, we continued to purfue our courfe. In this heavy guft the wind fflifted to the Weft, and raifed a very confufed. fea, which broke on our decks, and endangered the boats ; but, in fflifting its point, the wind did not abate its violence, nor did at all fubfide till the 14th, when the latitude was 360 20' North, and the longitude 1670 Eaft. It was determined to run down our longitude^ as much as poffible, in the parallel of 400 North ; and, as it was an unknown track, we were not without the hope of meeting with land, previous to our gaining fight of 1 the NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 9? the Continent of America, evident figns of which had been obferved by 1788. Captain Cook, as well as by us, in this latitude. —Indeed, from the va- A™u rious circumftances which have already been related, it is highly probable that there is land in this part of the Northern Pacific Ocean. The tempeftuous weather continued till the 17th, when the wind Thm-fdayi? veered to Eaft South Eaft, and blew with augmented violence. It moderated, however, at noon, when the latitude was 380 51' North, and the longitude 1750 io' Eaft.—Though advanced fo far North, we this day paffed a large turtle fleeping on the water, which being awakened 'by the noife of the fflip, immediately funk. Large flocks of birds ftill continued to frequent us, and the rock-weed became a common objed.— We now experienced a great degree of cold, and the morning and evening air, in particular, was uncommonly fharp. The variation of the compafs was 90 20' Eaft. Storm fucceeded ftorm till the 23d, when the weather broke, and Wednefdayjj the wind moderated. Thefe violent gales from the Northward and Weftward, not only brought with them a biting cold, but alfo fleet and fnow, which made confiderable depredations on our flock.—We felt however, the fatisfadion of having fair winds, principally from the South Weft, from which quarter it blew very hard ; but when it fflifted to the North Weft, it encreafed beyond the power of defcription,. with a great and mountainous fea. We had fortunately embraced a favourable opportunity of bending a newfuit of fails, as the old ones muft have been fflattered to pieces by the violence of thefe ftorms. The air was fharp, like that of bleak frofl in England, which more fenfibly affeded us, from our long continuance in tropical climates. Indeed we were not without occafional fhowers of fnow and hail. Flocks of birds, andlarge N 2 quantities VOYAGES TO THE quantities of rock-weed, continued to encourage an anxious expe"i&itao» of feeing land. On the 23d, at noon, we paffed the trunk of a large tree. Our latitude was 410 35' North, and the longitude was 1890 25' Eaft of Greenwich. We now began to draw nigh to the American fflore, which was a very defirable circumftance, as, among other prefling reafons, the fflip was become extremely light, from the great expenditure of provifions and water. We had, indeed, been of late extremely fortunate in our winds, but much more fo in the health of the crew, who felt no other inconvenience but what arofe from fo quick a tranfition from heat to cold. During the night it blew ftrong from the Weft North Weft, with cold rain. On the morning of the 24th the wind backed round to the Southward and Eaftward, a certain prelude of blowing weather; and at noon it blew fo hard as to oblige us to hand every fail; and, till three in the afternoon, we fuffered as fierce a ftorm as we ever remembered to have feen, with a greater fea than we had hitherto experienced. There was alfo continual rain, and the cold did not abate its feverity. The rigging fuffered confiderably, and the fflip ftrained very much in her rolling ; nor.were we without our apprehenfions for the crippled foremaft. But, amid this fevere and tempeftuous weather, we enjoyed the confo- latory refledion that we were every moment approaching nearer to the deftined port. On the 25 th the weather moderated, and the wind veered to the Weft North Weft. The latitude, at noon, was 430 North, and the longitude by account, :96s 28' Eaft. It blew a ftrong gale from the Weft South Weft, with clear weather; and we made good our courfe to the Eaft North L NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 10I North Eaft, running feldom lefs than fifty leagues a day. From the 1-88. 23d we had experienced a continual fucceflion of gales. We were occa- Aprui'> fionally favoured with an hour or two of clear weather, which'was always fucceeded by a return of ftorm ; fo that we were never able to fet more than a clofe-reefed topfail.—Our run was no lefs than 230 leagues in this fhort period. Indeed the weather not only continued to be cold and com- fortlefs, but was, at times, fo very cloudy, that we found no opportunity of taking any lunar obfervations, in order to afcertain, with any degree of accuracy, the run of the fflip. The fame weather continued, and we purfued our courfe without any Wednefday3o novelty of fituation or circumftance, till the 30th, when a fecond fpar paffed by, which from ks appearance, and a notch that had been recently cut in one end of it, could not have been long in the water.—The birds had forfaken us in the beginning of the late tempeftuous weather, and we no longer faw the floating rock-weed, which had, for fome time paft, been a daily objed. We had now twice croffed the tracks of the Refolution and the Difcovery in thefe feas : that on thek return from the Coaft of Japan to China, and their later track from Oonalafhka to the Sandwich Iflands. Captain Cook had formed feme flight conjedure of there being land between thefe tracks and the coaft of America, and our prefent courfe running diredly through that part of the fea, it is moft probable that we fhould have difcovered it, if there had been any fo contiguous to the American lhore. Mat. On our entrance into the month of May, the weather became not only Thurfby« moderate but pleafant :-the wind blew from the South, and we purfued 5* our VOYAGES TO THE our courfe to the Eaftward. The latitude,-at noon, was 460 5' North, and the longitude, by a medium of feveral diftances of the fun and moon, only 2120 5'Eaft of Greenwich; whereas, by account, we were in 2210 41' Eaft—This material difference muft have arifen from the variety of contrary currents we experienced in the low latitudes, as well as thofe which may be fuppofed to have fet us to the Weftward, on our tacking to the North. We had every reafon, therefore, to conjedure that We muft have approached the vicinity of Japan; and that we accom- plifhed our paffage to the North between the iflands of Ladrone and the New Carolines. The variation of the compafs we now found to be 210 18'Eaft. - The wind continued to be favourable,' though it occafionally blew in ftrong fqualls. The latitude, at noon, was 480 10' North; and the longi- I tude, deduced from the laft obfervations, 223° 22' Eaft. In the beginning it became foggy, and blew from the South South Weft in heavy fqualls, which obliged us to heave to, for the firft time, under the reefed forefail. However, as it moderated in the morning, we bore up, and purfued our courfe to the Eaftward. We experienced a ftrong gale till the 7th, when, at noon, the latitude was 490 28' North, and the longitude, by a medium of feveral diftances of the fun and moon, 228° 26' Eaft. Thurfday8 On this day, at noon, the latitude was 490 28' North. In the evening we faw a fea-parrot^ and paffed a piece of drift-wood. We had frequent fqualls of hail and fnow, but the weather was more moderate than we had known it for fome time. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. On the ioth, the latitude was 490 32'; and the longitude, by the medium of feveral fights, 2300 52' Eaft, and only 30 from King George's Sound. We kept running, during the night, under a prefs of fail, di- redly in for the American coaft. The whole atmofphere was in a ftate of illumination, which we attributed to the refledion of vaft mountains of fnow on the continent: nor were we miftaken ; for, on the morning of the 1 ith of May, the long-wifhed for land of America appeared, bearing Eaft by South, at the diftance of 13 leagues. It confifted of a ridge of mountains, whofe fummits were hid in the clouds. This land might be feen thirty leagues in clear weather. As we clofed in with it in the evening, the vapours cleared away from the tops of the mountains. At noon the latitude was, by double altitudes, 490 35' North, and King George's Sound bore nearly Eaft of us. We kept {landing in for the land, and when within four leagues of it, the wind veered to the South Eaft by Eaft, which obliged us to tack andftand to fea, the wind blowing almoft immediately out of the Sound, which we now plainly difcerned. 1788. A veffel was now feen under the weather land of the Sound, bearing down to us; but as we were under a prefs of fail,, and night coming on, we could not fpeak to her, without much inconvenience; but we neverthelefs knew her to be the Princefs Royal, of London,.on .a trading voyage for the furs of America. The night of the 1 ith- was adreadful one ; fuch heavygufts and fqualls of wind fucceeded each other, that we .were: prevented from carrying any fail. Thefe fqualls brought hail and fnow along with them; and, towards midnight, it blew a perfed' ftorm. When the morning broke,.we had loft fight of land, and the fhip had ftrained fo much, that we had fix feet water in the hold, with two pumps difabled;. nor did this gale moderate r VOYAGES TO THE derate till the 12th at noon, when the fflip was wore, and we flood in for the land, bailing the water from the hold, which was rather encreafing on us. The latitude was 490 26' North. We therefore kept {landing in for the land till feven o'clock in the evening, when that comfortable ob- jed was again very clearly difcerned : but we had another mortification to fuffer, for we found that the late ftorm had blown us to leeward of the Sound. We were therefore under the provoking neceffity of tacking once more, and {landing out to fea, with the wind at North North Weft ; the Sound bearing North Eaft, at the diftance of feven leagues. The night of the 12th was fo tempeftuous, that we were obliged-to lay to under the reefed forefail, all the crew being employed in bailing the water out of the hold; as it was not in our power to refit the pumps for immediate fervice. On the morning of the 13th the wind veered to the South by Eaft, blowing as hard as ever, with heavy rain, when the fflip was wore, and her head pointed in for the land. About eight it moderated, when fail was immediately made, and, by ten o'clock, we happily anchored in Friendly Cove, in King George's Sound, abreaft of the village of Nootka, in four fathoms water, and within an hundred yards of the fhore, after a paflage of three months and twenty-three days from China. The reader who has accompanied us through our long, difficult, and haraffed voyage, will eafily conceive the grateful joy we experienced on our arrival in fafety at the harbour which we had fought with fuch continued toil, and through fuch various dangers. It cannot be thought improper, as I truft it will not prove altogether ufelefs, to offer fuch obfervations as occurred to me on the paffage from China to the North Weft Coaft of America. few .ofj&c>S&au /?%% ddfirt ffffin fitl-/tf/!>d,iM.]hA-ijf<KtyJ: " *W^Cs A. r NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA'. It would not be prudent for fhips bound to America, to purfue our route, if they are not ready for fea by the middle of November, or the 10th of December at farthefl. The long and heavy delay we met with, after leaving Samboingan, is the beft proof of the difficulties we found in getting to the Eaftward at this period of our voyage ; when the currents alfo run more rapid, and the feafon is more tem- peftuous, as we have reafon to believe, than in the months of November and December. It had been our intention, at one time, to perform this voyage by failing round New Holland, and ftretching fufficiently to the Eaft, to fetch the Sandwich Iflands previous to our making the coaft of America; or we had the choice of puffling through Endeavour Straits, and performing the fame point ; but this latter courfe was rejeded on account of the dangerous archipelago of iflands feattered to the Eaftward of thofe ftraits; and the former was abandoned from the circuity of its navigation, which would demand a much longer time than we could fpare : it was accordingly conjedured, that if a paffage was attempted through the Sooloo Archipelago, then ftretching to the Eaftward, to weather New Guinea, New Ireland, and New Hanover,—and again tacking to the Northward, to obtain the Wefterly winds, that we fhould have a quick and eafy paffage opened to America. The event proved that we had judged rightly in adopting the laft ;— but, in my opinion, a ftill eafier and much better paffage is now opened to America; and it is fubmitted whether, in future, it would not be preferable for fhips bound there, to effed their way by the paffage between Luconia and Formofa. This opinion is not the fanciful refult of vague conjedure, but has, as I conceive, fomewhat of an experimental foundation on the following circumftances:— \ VOYAGES- TO THE On our arrival waththeJffelijGe'in China, in the autumn off 17*8, flhe agent of the merchantiin-England, and the agentof the merchants kc India, formed an union of interefts, and aifiociatcd themfelves under a joint ftock, to carry on thafitir trade of America. They accordingly equipped a fflip callsd the Argonaut, under the diredtion pf Mr. Cohiet, a lieutenant in his- MajeftySs navy, and who had commanded in tho years 1787 and 1788, the fhip Prince of Wales otf-London, belonging! to the merchants trading to America. This fflip had performed her voyage to the coaft, and returned to China with a valuable cargo of furs in 1788, and from thence to England* laden with*teas on account of the Eaft India Company. Mr. Colnet quitted the Prince of Wales in China, to command the Argonaut, and take charge of the aflbciated* merchants property on the coaft of America. Of his nautical' abilities I fhall only obferve, that they are fuch as to receive no addition to their reputation from any teftimony of mine : he accordingly prepared the Argonaut for fea, and the Princefs Royal of London, a veffel belonging to the fame commercial fociety. Thefe fhips were not ready for fea till the 17th of April, 1789 j when, on comparing'the tracks of the Felice and the Iphigenia, atrdthe time they met the Monfoon or Wefterly winds in the Northern Pacific Ocean, it was thought that the paffage to America might be effeded between Luconia and Formofa, with greater eafe and expedition than by purfuing the track by Magindanao. The Princefs Royal therefore failed in February, and did not reach the coaft of America in lefs than fixteen weeks : but the tardinefs of her voyage arofe from her being a very heavy failer, and not copper- bottomed.—WhereasTthe Argonaut, who was both fteathed with copper and a prime failer, left China the 26th of April, 1789, and arrived in- i King NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. King George's Sound the 3d of July following ; which was a paflage that exceeded our moft fanguine expedations. The future navigator from China to America, Is here prefented with four different tracks of that voyage. But if it fflould be my lot to be again engaged in it, I fflould leave China early in the month of March, and endeavour to make a paflage between Luconia and Formofa, in order to gain the Pacific Ocean, where, at that feafon, variable winds might be expeded to the Northward of 200 ; and when the violence of the North Eaft Monfoon would alfo be much abated in the China feas. Indeed in the month of April, there would be almoft a certainty of meeting the South Weft Monfoon or Wefterly winds in the latitude of 250 or 300 North, which prevail there, and blew us home to the American fhore. On leaving Canton, great care fflould be taken to work fome diftance up the coaft of China, between the Lema Ifles, and as high as Pedro Blanco, or the White Rock, before the China fea is croffed for Formofa: but no paflage, I think, fflould be attempted between the rocks of Ville Rete and the South-end of Formofa, except during the day, in clear weather, and with the appearance of a free channel. V O YAG E S TO THE CHAP. IX, The commodious Situation of Friendly Cove, in King George's Sound.—Great Numbers of the Natives affemble to view the Ship.—The Joy of Comekela on.his Arrival, &c—Hannapa, a €hief, comes on board, with fome Circumftances of his Vifit.—The Natives bring Supplies of Fifh.—Comekela prepares to go on Shore.—His Drefs, &c. and the Manner in which he is received by his Countrymen.—Employments of the Crew.—The Arrival of Maquilla, Chief of King George's Sound, with Callicum, a Perfon the next in Rank -to him.—A Defcription of their Dreffes, and the Ceremonies they pratlifed on feeing the Ship.—They come on Board.—Prefent made them.— ThePerfons of thefe Chiefs defcribed.—Leave obtained to build an Houfe and Veffel, and Ground granted for that Purpofe.—Prefents made on the Occafton.—Callicum attaches himfelfto the Ship, and is appointed Protestor of the Party on Shore, by Maquilla.—An Houfe built in Friendly Cove.— Defcription of it.—Keel of a Veffel laid.—Some Account of the Murder of Callicum by the Spaniards, in the following Tear. TH E fflip had been moored but a very fhort time, when it began to blow a tempeftuous gale of wind, with very heavy rain ; the commodious fituation, therefore, of Friendly Cove, made us truly fenfible of our good fortune, in being thus fecurely placed in aproteding haven, where neither ftorm or tempeft could alarm our fears or trouble our repofe.. Our earlieft attention was invited to a multitude of the natives, afiem- bkd-onthe banks in front of the village, in order to take a view of the fflip. 9 tdaL 4= FRIENDLY COVE WO'h'TKA SOU3VD, taken Thy IOJ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, fhip. Comekela, who for feveral days had been in a ftate of the moft 1788. anxious impatience, now enjoyed the inexpreffible delight of once more Mav" beholding his native land, to which he returned with the confcio us pride of knowledge acquired by his voyage, and in the poffeffion of thofe articles of utility or decoration, which would create the wonder, and encreafe the refped of bis nation. His joy, however, received no incon- fiderable interruption from the abfence of his brother Maquilla, the chief of King George's Sound, and his relation Callicum, who flood'next in rank to the fovereign. Thefe chiefs were, at this time, on a vifit of ceremony to Wicananiffl, a powerful prince of a tribe to the Southward. Of this circumftance we were informed by Hannapa, who fa the abfence of the two fuperior chiefs was left in power at Nootka, and who was come on board to pay us a vifit. At this time Comekela was dreffed in a fcarlet regimental coat, decorated with brafs buttons,—a military hat fet off with a flaunting cockade, decent linens, and other appendages of European drefs, which was far more than fufficient to excite the extreme admiration of his countrymen. Nor was Hannapa infenfible to the appearance of Comekela; for he regarded~him not only with the moft prying attention, but alfo with ftriking expreffions of that envy which is a very prevalent paffion among the natives of this part of America. In a fhort time the fflip was furrounded with a great number of canoes, which were filled with men, women and children ; they brought alfo confiderable fupplies of fifh, and we did not hefitate a "moment to purchafe an article fo very acceptable to people juft. arrived from a long and toilfome voyage. In VOYAGES TO THE In the evening the weather cleared up, and Comekela prepared to go on fhore. The news of his intention was foon communicated to the village, which immediately poured forth all its inhabitants to welcome him to his native home. Comekela had now arrayed himfelf in all his glory. His fcarlet coat was decorated with fuch quantities of brafs buttons and copper additions of one kind or other, as could not fail of procuring him the moft profound refped from his countrymen, and render him an objed of the firft defire among the Nootka damfels. At leaft half a ffleet of copper formed his breaft-plate; from his ears copper ornaments were fufpended, and he contrived to hang from his hair, which was dreffed en queue, fo many handles of copper faucepans, that his head was kept back by the weight of them, in fuch a ftiff and upright pofition, as very much to heighten the Angularity of his appearance. For various articles of his prefent pride Comekela had been in a ftate of continual hoftility with the cook, from whom he had contrived to purloin them ; but their laft and principal ftruggle was for an enormous fpit, which the American had feized as a fpear, to fwell the circumftance of that magnificence with which he was on the moment of dazzling the eyes of his countrymen ;—And fituated as we were, this important article of culinary fervice could not be denied him. In fuch a ftate of accoutrement, and feeling as much delight as ever fed the pride of the moft fplendid thrones of Europe or the Eaft, we fet out with him for the fhore, when a general fflout and cry from the village aflured him of the univerfal joy which was felt on his return. The whole body of inhabitants moved towards the beach, and with a moft unpleafant howl, welcomed him on fflore. At the head of them appeared NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, tfppearbd his aunt, an old woman of about eighty years of age, and, from her appearance, might have been fuppofed to have lived in a continual ftate of filth and dirtinefs from her birth to the moment in which we beheld fuch a difgufting objed. She embraced her nephew with great affedion, and ffled the fcalding rheum of her eyes on the cheek of Comekela. After the firft ceremohifes of welcome were over, and the firft gaze of admiration fatisfied, the whole company proceeded to the king's houfe, Into which perfons of rank were alone permitted to enter, and where a magnificent feaft of whale blubber and oil was prepared : the whole company fat down with an appetite well fuited to the luxuries of the banquet: even the little children drank the oil with all the appearance of extreme gratification ; but Comekela's tafte feemed to have been in fome degree vitiated by the Indian and European cookery, and he did not enjoy his native delicacies with the fame voracious gluttony as if his ftomach bad never known the variety of other food than that of Nootka. The evening was paffed in great rejoicing ; their fongs and dancing continued during, the greateft part of the night. We returned on board! early in the evening; but we heard for a long time after the found of their feftivity. Nootka is fituated on a rifing bank, which fronts the fea, and is backed and fkirted with woods*. In Friendly Cove the houfes are large, and in the common fafhion of the country. Each of thefe man- fions accommodates feveral families, and is divided into partitions,.in the of the village or town of Nootka, is referved for that part of at at large of the commerce, geography, 8cc. of the North Weft ,i2 V O YAG E S TO THE 1788. manner of an Engliffl ftable, in which all kinds of dirt, mixed with blubber, oil and fifh, are difcovered by more fenfes than one, to form a mafs of undefirable filthinefs. WedneHayu On the 14th, the weather was fufficiently fair to admit of our dif- patching a party on fhore to ered a tent for the wooders and waterers, as well as one for the fail-makers. For this purpofe a fpot was chofen at a fmall diftance from the village, and contiguous to a rivulet. The reft of the crew were employed in unreeling the running rigging, unbending the fails, and the other neeeflary duties of the fflip. Friday 16 On the 16th, a number of war canoes entered the cove, with Maquilla and Callicum ; they moved with great parade round the fflip, finging at the fame time a fong of a pleafihg though fonorous melody :—there were twelve of thefe canoes, each of which contained about eighteen men, the greater part of whom were cloathed in dreffes of the moft beautiful fkins of the fea otter, which covered them from their necks to their ancles. Their hair was powdered with the white down of birds, and their faces bedaubed with red and black ochre, in the form of a fflark's jaw, and a kind of fpiral line, which rendered their appearance extremely favage. In moft of thefe boats there were eight rowers on a fide, and a fingle man fat in the bow. The chief occupied a place in the middle, and was alfo diftinguifhed by an high cap, pointed at the crown, and ornamented at top with a fmall tuft of feathers. We liftened to their fong with an equal degree of furprife and pleafure. It was, indeed, impoffible for any ear fufceptible of delight from mufical founds, or any mind that was not infenfible to the power of melody, to remain unmoved by this folemn, unexpeded concert. The chorus was in unifon, and ftridly corred as to time and tone; nor did a diffonant 5 note NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, note efcape them. Sometimes they would make a fudden tranfition from the high to the low tones, with fuch melancholy turns in their variations, that we could not reconcile to ourfelves the manner in which they acquired or contrived this more than untaught melody of nature.— There was alfo fomething for the eye as well as the ear; and the adion which accompanied their voices, added very much to the impreffion which the chaunting made upon us all. Every one beat time with undeviating regularity, againft the gunwale of the boat, with their paddles ; and at the end of every verfe or ftanza, they pointed with extended arms to the North and the South, gradually finking their voices in fuch a folemn manner, as to produce an effed not often attained- by the or- cheftras in our quarter of the globe. 1788. They paddled round our fflip twice in this manner, uniformly rifing up when they came to the ftern, and calling out the word wacujh, wacufh, or friends. They then brought their canoes along-fide, when Maquilla and Callicum came on board. The former appeared to be about thirty years , of a middle fize, but extremely well made, and poffeffing a countenance that was formed to intereft all who faw him. The latter feem- ed to be ten years older, of an athletic make, and a fine open arrangement of features, that united regard and confidence. The inferior people were proper and very perfonable men. A feal-fkin filled with oil was immediately handed onboard, of which the chiefs took a fmall quantity, and then ordered it to be returned to the people "111 the canoes, who foon emptied the veffel of this luxurious liquor. A prefent, confifting of copper, iron, and other gratifying articles, was made to Maquilla and Callicum, who, on receiving it, took off their fea-otter garments, threw them, in the moft .graceful manner, at p our V-O YAGES TO THE our feet, aftd remained in the unattired garb of nature on the deck.— They were each of them in return prefented with a blanket,—when with every mark of the higheft fatisfadion, they defcended into their canoes* which were paddled haftily to the fhore. The manner in which thefe people give and receive prefents is, we believe, peculiar to themfelves. . However coftly the gift may be in their own eyes, they wifh to take away all idea of conferring any obligation on the receiver of k. We have feen two chiefs meet on a vifit of ceremony provided with prefents of the richeft furs, which they flung before each other with an air that marked the moft generous friendfhip, and rivalled that amiable interchange of kindnefs which diftinguifhes the more polifhed nations of the world. From the time of our arrival at Nootka to the 25th, we had much bad weather ; but that circumftance, however unpleafant, did not prevent us- from engaging in the different operations we had in view. Maquilla- had not only moft readily confented to grant us a fpot of ground in his territory, whereon an houfe might be built for the accommodation of the people we intended to leave there, but had promifed us alfohis affiftance in forwarding our works, and his protedion of the party who were deftined to remain at Nootka during our abfence. In return for this kindnefs, and to enfure a continuance of it, the chief was prefented with a pair of piftols, which he had regarded with an eye of felicitation ever fince our arrival. Callicum, who feemed to have formed a moft affedionate attachment to us, was alfo gratified, as well as the ladies of his family, with fuitable prefents : it indeed became our more immediate attention to confirm his regard, as he had been appointed by Maquilla to be our particular guardian and protedor, and had the moft peremptory injunctions to prevent the natives from making any depredations on us.' 1 But NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. „5 But however difpofed we might be to rely on the friendfflip of thefe 1788. chiefs, we thought it prudent, during the negotiation between us, May- to inform them of our power, by explaining the force we pofleffed, and the mode of applying it, in cafe they fflould at any time change their prefent difpofitions towards us. We wifhed to operate on their fears as well as their gratitude, in order to fecure, with greater certainty, the -objed of our voyage. Great advances were made in building the houfe, which on the 28th wednefdap* was completely finiffled. In the very expeditious accomplifflment of this important work, the natives afforded us all the affiftance in their power, not only by bringing the timber from the woods, but by readily engaging in any and every fervice that was required of them. When the bell rung for our people to leave off work in the evening, the native labourers were always affembled to receive their daily pay, which was diftri- buted in certain proportions of beads or iron. Such a proceeding on our part, won fo much upon their regard and confidence, that we could not find employment for the numbers that continually folicited to engage in our fervice. The houfe was fufficiently fpacious to contain all the party intended to be left in the Sound.—On the ground-floor there was ample room for the coopers, fail makers and other artizans to work in bad weather : a large room was alfo fet apart for the flores and provifions, and the armourer's fflop was attached to one end of the building and communicated with it. The upper ftory was divided into an eating room and chambers for the party. On the whole, our houfe, though it was not built to fatisfy a lover of archkedural beauty, was admirably well calculated for the purpofe to which it was deftined, and appeared to be a flrudure of uncommon magnificence to the natives of King George's Sound. P 2 A ftrong 6 V O YAG E S T O T H E 17S8. A ftrong breaft-work was thrown up round the houfe, enclofing a con fiderable area of ground, which, with one piece of cannon, placed in fuch a manner as to command the cove and village of Nootka, formed a fortification fufficient to fecure the party from any intrufion. Without this breaft-work, was laid the keel of a veffel of 40 or 50 tons, which was now to be built agreeable to our former determinations. mrfday5 ' By the 5th of June, our operations were con fiderably advanced; the fhips had been caulked, the rigging repaired, and the fails were overhauled ;—ftone ballaft had been received on board, as we found the danger of fand ballaft, on account of its choaking the pumps, and the fhip was wooded, watered, and got ready for fea. All this various and neeeflary bufinefs was done, though the weather had been very indifferent from the time of our arrival, having had almoft continual heavy rains, with foutherly winds. Thefe rains had entirely waffled the fnow from off the ground, and except on the fummits of the mountains and the higher hills, fmall patches of it only were now to be feen ; but vegetation was ftill very backward, and changed but by a very gentle gradation the dreary appearance of the country on our arrival. The party deftined to remain on fflore were bufily employed in their various occupations : fome were engaged in bringing the timber from the woods at a great diftance, and through a thick foreft of very difficult paflage ; others in fawing and fflaping it for the feveral purpofes to which it was to be applied, while the armourers were bufy in making, bolts, nails, &c. ready for ufe, or forging iron into the neeeflary articles of trade ; fo that, by proceeding on a fyftem of order and regularity, we had, in a very little time, formed our new dock-yard, in which the carpenters had already laid the keel, and raifed, bolted and fixed the ftern and ftern-poft ; fo that expedation had but a little while to look 5 forward, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Ii; forward,, till it would be gratified in feeing this veffel fit for the fervice 1788. to which it was deftined. • ■JuNE* If hiftories of navigation were written merely to amufe the leifure hours of the rich, or to fatisfy the eager enquiries of the philofopher, much of the minute parts of fuch a work as this would be neceflarily omitted, as unentertaining to the one, or beneath the notice of the other; but narratives of voyages are applicable to other purpofes; and, if they fflould not prove inftrudive to future navigators—if they fflould not tend to aid and facilitate the progrefs of commercial enterprize, the difficulties and dangers of fuch voyages muft have been encountered in vain, and the time employed in writing an account of them be added to the wafte of life. The good harmony and friendly intercourfe which fubfifted bstween us and the natives, will, we truft, be confidered as a proof that our con- dud was regulated by the principles of humane policy; while the generous and hofpitable demeanour of our faithful allies will convey a favourable idea of their charader, when treated with that kindnefs which unenlightened nature demands, and is the true objed of commercial policy to employ. The various offices of perfonal attachment which-we received from many individuals of thefe people, were fufficient to convince us that gratitude is a virtue well known on this diftant fhore,-—and that a noble fenfibility to offices of kindnefs was to be found among the woods of Nootka. Callicum pofleffed a delicacy of mind and condud which would have done honour to the moft improved ftate of our civilization ; a thoufand inftances of regard and affedion towards us might be related of this amiable man, who is now no more; and the only return that we can V O YAG E J TO THE can make for his friendfhip is to record it, with every expreflipu 0f horror and deteflation of that inhuman and wanton fpirit of murder, which deprived his country of its brighteft ornament, the future navigator of a proteding friend,—and drove an unoffending and ufeful people from their native home, to find a new habitation in the diftant de- fart*. liable chief was : fhot thrc ■ugh the body ii a the m< >nth of Ju ne, i rd one of the fh ipsofDon Jofeph Stephen Martir lez. The folic ceived from the I nafterofth e North Weft A merica, a young g< :ntle veracity, who wa shimfelfa mournful witne fsofthe inhuman ; ift:- >9. by a Callicum, his wife and child, came in a fmall canoe, with a prefent of fifh, along-fide the Princeffa, the commodore's fliip ; and, the fifh being taken from him in a rough and unwelcome manner, before he could prefent it to the commander,—the chief was fo incenfed at this behaviour, that he immediately left the' fhip, exclaiming as he departed, pefhae, pefbae I the meaning of which is, bad, bad !—This conduct was confidered as fo offenfive, that he was immediately fhot from the quarter-deck, by a ball, through the heart. The body on receiving the ball, fprung over the fide of the canoe and immediately funk. The wife was taken with her child, in a ftate of ftupefaction to the fhore by fome of her friends, who were witneffes of this inhuman cataftrophe. Shortly after, however, the father of Callicum ventured on board the Spanifh fhip, to beg permiflion to creep for the body beneath the water, when this fad requeft of parental forrow was refufed, till the poor afflicted favage had collected a fufficient number of fkins among his neighbours to purchafe, of chriftians, the privilege of giving fepulture to a fon whom they had murdered. The body was foon found, and followed to its place of interment by the lamenting widow, attended by all the inhabitants of the Sound, who expreffed the keeneft forrows for a chief whom they loved, and to whofe virtues it becomes our duty to give the grateful teftimony of merited affe&ion. CHAP. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. CHAP. X. Methods employed by the Natives to advance the Price of Sea Otters Skins.— Their Superiority in arranging their Bargains between us.—Condubl of Comekela,—Made a Chief through our Influence.—His Marriage.—The- Magnificence of the Entertainment on the Occafton.—Maquilla and his Chiefs affeSl our Drefs and Manners.—Valuable Prefent of Maquilla.—A Grindftone Jlolen.—An human Hand offered for Sale.—Narrow Efcape of the Natives- en the Occafton.—Melancholy Lofs of Part of the Crew of the Imperial Eagle,. tn 17S 7.—>Sufpicim that Maquilla is a Cannibal.—Extraordinary Pillow of Callicum.—The Inhabitants of Friendly Cove remove to a fmall Diftance. •—The Reafons and Facility of their Removal.—A young Otter brought for Sale. IN the interval between our arrival and the fifth of June, a very brifk • trade had been carried on for furs, and we had procured upwards of one hundred and forty fea otter fkins. On our firft, arrival we had flipu- lated a certain price for every different kind of fur, according to its value; but in the whole bufinefs of this traffic they availed themfelves of every advantage ; and it was our intereft, from the views of future benefit, to fubmit to any deviation they attempted to make from their Origkial agreement. After fome little time they changed the whole order of their traffic •with us ;. and inftead of common barter, according to the diftind value VOYAGES TO THE of the articles exchanged, the whole of our mercantile dealings was carried on by making reciprocal prefents ; the ceremony of which was accompanied with the utmoft difplay of their pride and hofpitality—The particulars of thefe cufloms are related at large in that part of the work which is more particularly affigned to commercial information. Whenever Maquilla or Callicum thought proper to make us a prefent, one of their perfonal attendants was fent to requeft the company of the Tighee, or Captain, on fhore, who always accepted the invitation, charged with fuch articles as were intended to be prefented in return. . On our arrival at the habitation of the chiefs, where a great number of fpedators attended to fee the ceremony, the fea otter fkins were produced with great flioutings and geftures of exultation, and then laid at our feet. The filence of expedation then fucceeded among them, and their moft eager attention was employed on the returns we fflould make;. nor can it be fuppofed, that, confidering our credit as Britifh merchants, we were deficient in affording the expeded fatisfadion:—befides, it had been artfully enough hinted by our Nootka friends, that as foon as their prefent flock of fkins was exhaufted, they fflould go upon an expedition to procure more; and this was one circumftance, among others, which naturally tended to quicken the fpirit of commerce between us. Since the firft difcovery of this Sound by Captain Cook, feveral fhips had arrived there for the purpofe of trading with the natives, who had acquired a greater degree of civilization from fuch'a communication than we expeded to have found amongft them;—but it was a matter of fome furprize to us, that they appeared, at leaft to our obfervation, totally deftitute of European articles: for, of all the iron, copper, beads, &c. which they muft have received in return for their furs, not a particle of them NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, them was now to be feen ;—nor is it eafy to conjedure in what manner they had contrived, in fo fhort a time, to diffipate their treafures. The ficklenefs that they at times difcovered in their traffic, was occasionally very troublefome. At one time copper was their favourite objed ; at another, iron was the only commodity in eftimation among them ; beads would alfo have their turn of preference. But this hefita- tion in their choice was generally determined by a medley of them all. Comekela was, at firft, very adive in forwarding our commercial arrangement; but he had become very deficient in his native tongue, and he now fpoke fuch a jargon of the Chinefe, Englifh, and Nootkan languages, as to be by no means a ready interpreter between us and the natives ;—befides, in returning to the manners of his country, he began to prefer the interefts of his countrymen, and, amidft the renewed luxuries of whale-fleffl, blubber and oil, to forget the very great kindneffes we had beflowed upon him.—But as he had, through our influence, been raifed into a fituation of truft and honour, it was notour intereft to unfold our fufpicions of his duplicity and ingratitude towards us. Maquilla had committed to him the care of his moft valuable treafures, among which was a brafs mortar, left by Captain Cook, which was held in the higheft degree of eftimation by "the Nootka Chief. This piece of culinary furniture was elevated from a ftate of fervile ufe, to become a fymbol of royal magnificence. It was kept extremely bright, and, in vifits, or meetings of ceremony, it was borne before Maquilla, to aid the fplendor of the regal charader.—It was therefore an objed rather to recall his former difpofitions towards us, by the continuance of our friendfflip, than to juftify his deviation from that regard which it was his duty to manifeft in our favour. We therefore exerted our influence with his brother Maquilla, to elevate him at once to the charader of chief, Q^ by VOYAGES TO THE by marrying him to a woman of rank in his own diftrid. This favour was immediately granted to our felicitation, and we were invited to the nuptials, which were folemnized with all poffible magnificence.—Half a whale, a large quantity of other fifh, with an adequate proportion of oil, formed the fumptuous part of this entertainment, which was ferved with a furprizing degree of regularity to near three hundred people, who conduded themfelves with great order, and expreffed extreme fatisfadion at the fplendor and hofpitality of their chief. On the 6th, a meffenger came on board from Maquilla, with the information that he was preparing to make us a very fuperb prefent, and to defire our attendance on fhore, in order to receive it.—We immediately waited on the chief, and found him dreffed in an European fuit ofcloaths, with a ruffled fhirt, and his hair queued and powdered :—thefe decorations of his perfon were part of thofe prefents which Comekela had received from us, and were, with all their weight of copper ornaments, confidered as a proud dift ndion of Nootka royalty. The king was furrounded with feveral chiefs, who were all adorned with fome particular article of Englifh drefs, which appeared to afford an uncommon gratification to their vanity; and, on this occafion, they had cleanfed their faces from, all the oil and ochre with which they were ufually bedaubed.—Indeed, the metamorphofis was of fuch a nature, as, on our firft entering the houfe, to puzzle us a little in the recognition of our friends. This circumftance afforded them confiderable entertainment, which was- followed by their rifing up and imitating our mode of falutation. The manner of taking off their hats, the curious geftures they fell into, in fcraping and bowing to each other, with a few Englifh words which they had acquired, and now repeated aloud, without connedion or underftanding, compofed a fcene with which they were delighted, and we could not be difpleafed. When thefe good-humoured ceremonies were oVer, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. g| over, the chief ordered feveral very fine fea otter fkins to be produced 1788. before us, and afterwards fent on board the fflip ; to which he added a JUNE- very fine deer, that had been juft killed in the woods by one of his people. We were not backward in making a fuitable prefent to .Maquilla ; and, on our return to the fflip, we found that the otter-fkins had preceded us. The arrival of .Comekela had infpired thefe people with a decided preference for the articles of European drefs;—an hat, a ffloe, or a flocking, would generally turn the balance of commercial negotiation in our favour:—nor did we negled any motives in our power to encourage a fancy which might promote the ufe of woollens amongft them. On the 7th, a complaint was made by the cooper that his grindftone Saturday 7 had been ftolen by the natives.—This was the firft ad of depredation that we had fuffered;—indeed the different fhips that had vifited the Sound before us are faid to have endured a fimilar lofs. We had obferved that the attention of the people had been principally direded to this ftone, being convinced that it contained fome peculiar charm, by which it communicated, with fuch little trouble, fo fharp an edge to our iron ; an operation which they found a matter of no common difficulty. The lofs of this article was of fome importance ; and every means was exerted to recover it, but in vain ;—even our application to Maquilla was not attended with the ufual fuccefs—It was, however, thought more prudent to connive at the theft, than engage in a difpute with the people ;_we therefore contented ourfelves with iffuing flrid orders that none of the natives, except the chiefs, fflould, in future, be admitted within the breaft-work that furrounded the houfe. Q^2 On VO YAG E S TO THE On the 8th, a ftrange canoe with feveral people in it entered the cove, and, coming alongfide the fflip, fold us a fmall number of fea otter fkins:—they alfo offered for fale an human hand, dried and fflrivelled up ; the fingers of which were com pleat, and the nails long; but ourhorror may be better conceived than expreffed, when we faw a feal hanging from the ear of one of the men in the canoe, which was known to have belonged to the unfortunate Mr. Millar, of the Imperial Eagle, whofe melancholy hiflory was perfedly well known to every one on board*. The failors fcarcely hefitated a moment in expreffiug their opinion that it muft have been the hand of Mr. Millar, and that the people before them were the murderers of that officer. This fufpicion would have caufed the certain death of our vifitors, if it had not been fuggefted that the feal in queftion might have been transferred, by a fucceffion of barters, to the prefent poffeflbr.:— The being in poffeffion of the hand was, however, confidered as fo pre-- ponderating a circumftance, that It was no eafy matter to keep the failors in due bounds; and who, after all, could not be reftrained from, driving thefe people away from the fflip, with every mark of infult and deteftation.. They proved, however, to be innocent of the crime of which; they had been fufpeded; as we were aflured, the next day, by Maquilla himfelf, on his own knowledge, that they had received the articles- which had occafioned fo much difguft to us, in the way of trade, from the natives of Queenhythe, which was the very place where Mr. Millar and his affociates had been murdered..—But the chief did not attempt to * The Imperial Eagle- was a fhip employed to collect furs on the Coaft of America, in- the year 1787. In the courfe of this bufinefs, the Captain difpatched his long-boat froni. King George's Sound, on a tradingexpedition as faras47° North; fhe then anchored' a-breaft of a river, the fhallows at whofe entrance prevented the long-boat from getting into it. A fmall boat, however, which was attached to the other, was fent up the river with. Mr. Millar, an- officer of the Imperial Eagle, another young gentleman, and four feamen.— They continued rowing till they came to a village, where they were fuppofed to have beea feized and murdered by the nati vestas their cloaths were, afterwards found ftained with blood., deny NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, deny that the hand had belonged to one of our unhappy countrymen; and, from his manifeft confufion in converfing on this fubjed, and various other concurring circumftances, which will be related hereafter, we were very much difpofed to believe that Maquilla himfelfwas a cannibal. There is, indeed, too much reafon to apprehend that the horrible traffic for human flefh extends, more or lefs, along this part of the continent of America. Even our friend Callicum repofed his head, at night, upon a large bag, filled with human fkulls, which he {hewed as the trophies of his fuperior courage ; and it is more than probable, that the bodies of the vidims to which they belonged, had ■ furniffled a banquet of vidory for him, and the warriors that fflared his. favage glory» On the fame day Wicananifh, a powerful chief to the Southward, at whofe court Maquilla was vifitlng when we arrived in the Sound, came to return the vifit, with two war canoes, and the greater part of his numerous fuite fuperbly dreffed in furs of the higheft eftimation. Thefe people were of a more thriving appearance than our friends at Nootka,, which arofe, probably, from their being fituated on a part of the coaft where whales were in greater plenty;—for this article, on which much of the fuftenance, and all their luxury depended, was beginning to be fearce in Nootka Sound. Wicananifh paid us a formal vifit on board the Felice, and invited us to his place of refidence, with a promife of great abundance of furs ;—but we could not, at prefent, tempt him„ or any of his attendants, by any articles in our poffeffion, to part wkhs the beautiful dreffes which they wore.. On the ioth, we obferved a general commotion throughout the viT- Tuesday I lage, and, in a fflort time, as if by enchantment, the greater part of the houfes difappeared.:—When we went on fflore, Maquilla informed us that? 5 hi* V O YAG E S TO THE his people were preparing to remove to a bay which was at the diftance of about two miles from the Sound, on account of the great quantities of •fifh which reforted thither, not only to procure a prefent flock of whale and other fifh, but to take the earlieft opportunity to prepare for their winter's fubfiftence. The manner in which the houfes of Nootka are conftruded, renders the embarkations as well as debarkations a work of little time and ready execution, fo that a large and populous village is entirely removed to a .different ftation with as much eafe as any other water carriage. But a more particular account of thefe and fimilar circumftances relating to the manners and cuftoms of thefe North Weftern Americans, will, as we have before had occafion to obferve, be given in another part of this volume. Several young fea otters were brought on board for fale, which found no purchafers. One of them was brought alive ; the dams and all their . whelps had been killed by Maquilla, except this, which, however, had met with fome very rough treatment, as one of its eyes had been evidently forced out of its focket. It was very fmall, made a noife exadly like a young child, and was the moft animated creature we had ever feen among the brute race.—After keeping it a day or two, we threw it into the fea, in order to let it efcape; but, to our great furprize, we found . that it could neither dive or fwim, but continued flouncing about in the water till we retook it on board, when it foon after died from the bruifes it had received.—This circumftance is, however, eafily accounted for, as the dam of the fea otter is well known to carry its young ones on its back till a certain period, when they' have acquired both ftrength and habit to take care of themfelves. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. S3* 1788. CHAP. XL Ship prepares to put to Sea.—The Pinnace ftolen by the Natives,—Impoffibility: of recovering her.—Some uneafineffes on board the Ship.—Officers and Party intended to be left on fhore, landed.—Provifions made for equipping the New Veffel—The Safety of the Party confulted.—Progrefs of the New Veffel. —Health of the Crew.—Supplies of Fifh.—A formal Vifit to Maquilla, and Renewal of the Treaty, &c He is made acquainted with the probable Time of the Iphigenia's Arrival Requefts a Letter for the Captain.— Our Aftonifhment at his Knowledge, and by what Means it was obtained.— Story of Mr. Maccay.—Callicum arrives from hunting the Sea Otter.— Articles which had belonged to Sir Jofeph Banks in his Poffeffion.—The Ship- puts to Sea.—Plan of future Proceedings, &c. &c. ON the 1. ith of June, the weather being fine and moderate, the fflip Wednrfdayn was unmoored and towed by the boats out of Friendly Cove, in order to put to fea : it had been our intention to have departed on the 9th, but we fuffered an accident which very much diftreffed us : this was no lefs than the lofs of the Pinnace, a very large fine boat, and the only one of the kind we had- We were difpofed to believe at firft, that fhe broke adrift from the fhip in the night, in a guft of wind, without being perceived by the watch ;.—but in the morning fhe was not to be feen, and both boats and canoes were difpatched in fearch of her, but to no purpofe of fuccefs. Large rewards were then offered to the. natives if they would reftore her, as, from a variety of circumftances, we had no doubt but that fhe was in their poffeffion. Maquilla and Cal- 3 licum VOYAGES TO THE licum both afferted their innocence in the ftrongeft terms ; but it afterwards appeared, as we fufpeded, that the boat had been ftolen and broken up for the fake of the iron and nails, which were afterwards dif- perfed throughout the Sound. This theft threatened, at firft, a rupture between us and the chief; and while there were any hopes of producing the reftoration of the Pinnace, we affumed rather an appearance of refentment; but when We were convinced that the recovery of the boat was impradicable, we let the matter pafs over without any further buftle or difturbance. Had we, indeed, proceeded to take any fteps towards a retaliation, it would probably have occafioned a breach between us and the chief of Nootka, which might have been difadvantageous to our commercial objeds in ..general, and been attended with evident danger to the party we fflould leave behind us. ' We therefore contented ourfelves with warning Maquilla againft any depredations of a fimilar nature, and fufpending the quarter-mafters from their fl.at.ions, as it was from their negled that this very diftreffing incdnvenience proceeded. There ftill continued to lurk amongfl the crew thofe fymptoms of mutiny which had, at times, difcovered itfelf in the early part of the voyage ; though we had flattered ourfelves that it was entirely eradicated previous to our arrival at Samboingan. The boatfwain had lately failed in that refped to the officers which the duties of his ftation indifpen- fably obliged him to obferve. But a proper degree of fpirit and exertion checked fuch menacing condud, and he was degraded from his- fituation to the inferior duty before the mail. Another boatfwain was appointed in his ftead, and the whole" of this, proceeding was entered hi the log-book. On j^gjd NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. On the day previous to our departure we landed the officers and party who were to remain on fhore with the carpenters, in order to compleat the veffel. Proper inftflg$.ions were left with the commanding officer, fflould the Felice fail in her propofed return, or any fatality happen either to her or the Iphigenia, who was expeded hi the Sound by the latter end of the autumn. In cafe fuch an accumulated misfortune fflould befal the expedition, we left every neeeflary ftore to equip the new veffel for fea, with-fufficient provifions to carry her to the Sandwich Iflands, where fhe would be able to obtain fufficient refrefflment to enable her to proceed to China. It was but a neeeflary duty to guard, as weU as we were able, againft every poffible calamity; the fflip's company did not appear to feel any impreffions of an unfavourable omen, and we left our friends on fhore with the moft chearing hopes of finding them at our return, in a fituation of great advantage and comfort. But, independent of the veffel, we hoped to reap very confiderable benefits from the party on fhore ; at leaft we had every reafon to exped that they would colled all the furs taken by the inhabitants of King George's Sound during the fummer months, which we knew muft be ■confiderable. We were, at all events, very certain that they would remain free from difturbance and moleftation ; for befides a piece of cannon mounted on the works, th'e little fort was well fupplied with arms and ammunition; and the garrifon, including the artificers, was fully fufficient to defend it againft any power that could be brought againft it. The veffel was in great forwardnefs, feveral of her floor timbers were laid, and the armourers had prepared a large quantity of nails and bolts. There was eftabMffled, befides, a very convenient- rope-walk, and we had already begun to manufadure that effential article. So that, if all the circumftances of ereding a comfortable and commodious houfe, ballafting R and VOYAGES TO THE and equipping the Felice for fea, and the laborious bufinefs of procuring timber and preparing materials for the conftrudion of the new veflels, with fome few neeeflary attentions to our commercial arrangements, be confidered, the accufation of idlenefs or negligence, would be the laft that the moft unrefleding injuftice could lay to our charge. On.our firft arrival in the Sound the country appeared moift, dreary, and uncomfortable ;. but we obferved very little fnow then on the ground^ and that little was quickly waffled away by the heavy rains which fuc- ceeded our arrival:—we found the air remarkably mild, and the frefh greens and onions, which were in the greateft abundance, foon reftored the invalids we had on board to a ftate Of perfedhealth. Our fupplies of fifh were conftant and regular, and the natives never failed to bring to daily fale as much of this article as they could fpare.^ from the demands-of home-confumption. On the eve of our departure,'.a formal vifit was paid Maquilla, in order to acquaint him that on the next day we propofed to leave the Sound. We made him. under Hand that it would be three or four months before our fflip would-returnj and about what time we fuppofed the veffel'on the flocks would be launched. They called the latter Mamatlee or fhip, and the former Tigbee Mamatlee, or great fflip. The chief was alfo - requested to fflew every mark> of. attention and friendfflip to the party wo fflould leave on fflore ; and as a bribe to fecure his attachment, he was promifed that when we finally left the coaft, he fflould" enter into full poffeffion of the houfe and all the goods and chattels thereunto belongings As a proof of our immediate regard, he was prefented with a fuit of cloaths covered with metal buttons, in his eyes of extraordinary eftimation ; feveral prefents were made to the ladies of his family ; and-- as- we- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ,*, were taking our leave, an old lady, the aunt of Comekela, whom we have 1788. already defcribed as a mafs of age and filthinefs, requefted, in a very JUN*- earneft manner, to be indulged with a pair of buckles, which, immediately on her receiving them, were hung in her ears with the fame pride that European beauty feels in decorating its charms with the gems of India. Maquilla, who was glowing with delight at the attentions we had paid him, readily granted every requefl we thought proper to make, and confirmed, with the ftrongeft affurances of good faith, the treaty of friendfhip which had been already entered into between us. He was now alfo informed that another fflip was expeded in the Sound, which might probably arrive in our abfence, and that the Captain of this fhip was our particular friend. On receiving this intelligence, he very much aftonifhed us by demanding, without the leaft hefitation, that we would leave a letter with him for our friend, the chief. We had not the leaft idea that thefe people had the moft imperfed notion of our poflefling the faculty of communicating our thoughts to each other on paper ; and curiofity was inftantly awake to know by what means they could pof-' fibly have acquired fuch an article of information. It was, however, -foon fuggefted to us, that thefe people obtained their knowledge from a Mr. Maccay, who had remained, we believe, upwards of fourteen months among them, during which time he had kept a journal, which we have feen, and the circumftance of which cannot be paffed over without fome account of the bufinefs which occafioned his being left to nothing better than favage life. The fhips Captain Cook and Experiment had been equipped under the diredion of Mr. Scot,—whofe mercantile experience and fpirit are acknowledged in Europe as well as in India, — from Bombay to America, for the purpofe of colleding furs:—they arrived on the R 2 coaft VOYAGES TO THE ceaft in the year 1786, and left Mr. Maccay, the furgeon's mate on board one of them, with his own entire confent and approbation, under the protedion of Maquilla. Mr. Strange, who had the fuperintendence of thefe fhips, entertained an opinion that very great commercial effeds might proceed from leaving Mr. Maccay with the natives of King George's Sound, to learn their language, cufloms and manners. He was, therefore, accordingly left in the year 1786, and continued with them till" 1787, when he embarked for China on board the ImperiaL Eagle. Though this gentleman had been furnifhed with cloaths and provifions for his ftay at Nootka, he was reduced to the level of a favage, and we- hardly could conceive how it was poffible for an European conftkution tfj/fupport itfelf with food averfe to its habits and its nature,—to live in every fpecies of filth, and fatisfy even hunger with train oil and blubber. But this was not all,—during Mr. Maccay's ftay, from the length and. feverky of the winter, a famine reigned at Nootka Sound : the ftock of dried fifh was expended, and no frefh fupplies of any kind was to be ea.ujfflt; fo that the natives were obliged to fubmit to a ftated allowance,, and the chiefs brought every day to bur countrymen, the ftated meal of feven dried herrings heads. The perufal of this gentleman's journal, would fflock any mind tindured with humanity.. The lavages?, however, gave him. a wife* and once or twice took him with them to feafts and diftant parts;, and we can vouch,.whatever their condud may have been, that both the chiefs at Nootka and Wicananifh enquired concerning liis welfare as if they felt the affedion. for him which, they exprefled. Maquilla was therefore indulged1 wkh a letter agreeable to his requeft ; and we were not long in making the difcovery,. that a dread of the Iphi- genia's NORTH WE-jST COAST OF AMERICA. genia's arrival would prove a ftronger protedion to our party, than all the kindnefs we had bellowed on, and all the promifes which we had received from him. . Callicum, who had been gone for fome time to hunt otters, was now returned, and it gave us no little fatisfadion that the chief on whom we had the moft reliance,, and who was the profeffed protedor and patron of our party, was come back to Nootka, previous to our departure from k. The ufual tokens of friendfhip paffed between us ; but, in return for the prefent we now made him, he furprifed us with three pieces of a- brafly metal formed like cricket bats, on which the remains of the name and arms of Sir Jofeph Banks, and the date of the year 1775, were very evident. On one of" them the engraving was not fo much injured as to prevent the whole of it from being very intelligible; on the others,, part of thefe diftind marks., was. worn out. But thefe tokens of regard were returned to the-amiable chief, to continue the remembrance of the original donor of th^na^ tot whofe enterprifing and philofophic fpirit we may be faid to be In a great meafure indebted for the difcovery of a eoaft, which, in fpite of every impediment, will, I truft,. prove a fource ©f beneficial commerce to our country^ On putting to fea, ft was determined to trace the Southern- partrbfr the coaft from-.King George's Sound, as the Iphigenia was-to trace the- Northern-partof it, from Cook's River to the fame place ; by which arrangement ther whole of the'American conflbent from 60° to 450 North- would be explored,, wkh various intermediate places which were—not-: examined by Captain Cook.. We accordingly, fet;fail,.after having given* repeated inftrudions to the party we left behind, to hold themfelves- continually on their guard againft the natives,—and. to be extremely attentive to preferve the moft perfed harmony with the inhabitants of Nootka Sound. CHAP. '3+ ,78 VOYAGES TO THE CHAP. XII. The chiefsHanna and Detootche vifit the Ship on her Way to the Reftdence cfWi- - cananifti, &c.—Wicananifh arrives on board, and pilots the Ship into his Road- fted.—Numbers of the Inhabitants come off to the Ship.—The Face of the Country and the Village of Wicananifii defcribed.—Vifit paid to the Chief.— Defcription of his Houfe.—Their Ingenuity a Subjebl of Aftonifthment.—Im- menfe Family of Wicananifh.—His Opulence, Riches, and Mode of Feafting.— Prefents made to Wicananiftj.—The high Value fet on Tea-kettles.—The magnificent Return made to our Prefents.—The Wives of Wicananiftj, their Beauty, with the Prefents made to them.—Briftt Trade carried on with the Natives.—Refrefhments procured.—Trade with the Chief .—Murder of a Stranger by the People of the Village.—The Ship obliged by bad Weather to enter the inner Port, named Port Cox. IB mSH t^e IJtk °f June In the evening, we were purfuing our courfe to the South Eaft, at the diftance of three miles from the fhore, when, at funfet, Breaker's Point, which forms the Eaftern fflore of the entrance of King George's Sound, bore in the diredion of North Weft half Weft, and a point appeared ftretching to the Southward of Breaker's Point, which obtained the name of Half-way Point, on account of its being about midway between King George's Sound and the refidence of Wicananiffl. This point bore Eaft, and our diftance from the fflore might be about three leagues. By a medium of feveral amplitudes and azimuths, the variation of the compafs was 210 5' Eafterly. We NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. . XJ We continued our courfe till eleven o'clock, with the long-boat in tow, r>j8$. when it Was thought prudent to heave to for the night; At day-break ]uNE on the 12th, we made fail, withthe wind variable. At noon-the obferved Thu*'r' latitude was 490 22' North, though we yet obferved Breaker's Point bearing North Weft by North ; and at the fame time faw an high mountain over the entrance of Wicananifh, bearing Eaft North Eaft, at the diftance of feven leagues-. As we purfued our courfe, under an eafy fail, In order to examine the coaft between our prefent pofition and King George's Sound, the wind veered to the South Eaft by Eaft, and the weather became overcaft ; as this wind was diredly againft us, the fflip was tacked, and we flood out to fea, being apprehenfive of bad weather, which we generally found to attend the South Eaft winds. Our fears were foon and very fully confirmed, for the weather became fqually- and violent. The top-fails were clofe reefed ; and we continued {landing to' fea-to procure an offing, the moft important objed of attention on this coaft. In the night it blew very hard from the South Eaft, with an heavy fea, thick weather, and conftant as well as violent rain. At midnight the fflip was wore, and we flood in. for the land. At day-break on the 13th, the weather, though it cleared away at Friday 13 times, had a very tempeftuous* appearance; our diftance from the land might be fix leagues, and' the remarkable hilf above Wicananifh' appeared very plain in the form of a fugar loaf: It bore North Eaft by Eaft feven leagues. As we-flood-in for the fflore, feveral canoes came off to us from a duller of iflands nearly abreaft of us, in moft of which, there were- up- - Wards of twenty men, of a pleafing appearance and brawny form, chiefly cloathed in otter fkins of great beauty. They paddled along with' great velocity, and after fome time, two of the boats came along-fide, and! the people I V O YA GESTOTHE people In them did not hefitate to come on board. Amongft them there were two chiefs, named Hanna and Detootche, who refided at a village abreafl of the fflip. They were the handfomeft men we had feen :—Hanna was about forty, and carried in his looks all the exterior m^rks of pleafantry and good humour; Detootche was a young man, who to the beauty of form, added the graces of manner ; and, as far as our penetration could difcover, the better qualities of the mind. They appeared to be perfedly at eafe in our fociety, fflook every perfon on board by the hand, and gave us very friendly invitations to receive the hofpkalky of their territory. They were extremely preffing that the fflip fflould go in among the iflands. But as we had predetermined to feek out the refidence of Wicananifh, which we were inftruded was not far from King George's Sound, we kept Handing with that view towards the iflands, which, as we approached, appeared to be low and woody, but we could perceive no pradicable channel between them. Hanna and Detootche, to whom we had made fome trifling prefents, now took their leave and paddled on fhore. About noon the weather broke up, and the wind veered to the Northward of Eaft, with which we flood along the fflore to enter between this range of iflands and the main ; when we perceived another fmall fleet of canoes approaching us, in the foremoft of which we faw Wicananifh, who, in a fhort time came on board, and undertook to pilot us himfelf into his harbour, the entrance of which, as he pointed it out to us, was at the diftance of about five miles. Boats were now font a-head to found, and we followed, under an eafy fail; when, after rounding the extremity of the Southernmoft ifland, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. we entered the roadfted, paffing between feveral reefs of rocks. Our foundings were very regular; and, about one o'clock, we anchored between the main and the iflands, being pretty well ffleltered from the fea. Wicananifh proved an excellent pilot, and was not only indefatigable in his own exertions, but equally attentive to the condud of his canoes, in their attendance upon us. This roadfted bore the wildeft appearance .that can 'be conceivl , and was defended from the fea by feveral fmall iflets and reefs, which nearly conneded them. The port we obferved was fituated about tw miles from the anchoring ground we occupied, the entrance of whicj did not appear to be more than two cables length in breadth. >erceived a village almoft part of which we now ling off in fhoals to the which they difpofed of irticles of fimilar attrac- Abreaft of the fflip, on one of the iflands, we thrice as large as that of Nootka; from every faw the people launching their canoes, and coi fflip, laden with fifh, wild onions, and berries to the failors for fmall bits of iron, and other tlon. Wicananifh was entertained during the greater part of the day 011 board, with feveral of his friends, and at night returned to the fflore, followed by a long train of natives, who. had waited to attend him. The very fine weather on the 14th, gave us an opportunity to obferve ' the face of the country, which appeared on all fides to be an impene- trable fore'ft, without any intervals of a clear country. The village of Wicananifh ftands on a rifing bank near the fea, and is backed by the woods. In confequence of a meffage from, the chief to invite us to a feaft at his houfe, we landed about noon, when-we were met by a large crowd of women and children, and conduded by the brother of Wicananifh to the place of entertainment. S Oil VOYAGES TO THE On entering the houfe, we were abfolutely aftonifhed at the vaft area k enclofed. It contained a large fquare, boarded up clofe on all fides to the height of twenty feet, with planks of an uncommon breadth and length. Three enormous trees, rudely carved: and painted, formed, the rafters, which were fupported at the ends and in the middle by gigantic images, carved out of huge blocks of timber. The fame kind of broad planks covered the whole to keep out the rain ; but they were fo placed as to be removed atpleafure, either to receive the air and light, or let out the fmoke. In the middle of this fpacious room were feveral fires, and befide. them large wooden veffels filled with-fifh foup. Large flices of whale's fleffl lay in a ftate of preparation; to be put in fimilar machines filled with water, into, which the women, with a kind of tongs, conveyed hot ftones from very fierce fires, in order to make it boil:—heaps of fiffl, were ftrewed about, and in this central part of the place, which might very properly be called the kitchen, flood large feal-fkins filled with pil„ from whence the- guefts were ferved- with, that delicious beverage. The trees that fupported the roof were of a fize which would render the maft of a firft-rate man of war diminutive, on a comparifon with them ; indeed our curiofity as well as our aflonifflment was on itsutmoft ftretch, when we confidered5the ftrength that muft be neeeflary to raife thefe enormous beams to their prefent elevation ; and how fuch ftrength could be found by a- people wholly unacquainted with mechanic powers. The door by which we entered this extraordinary fabric, was the mouth of one of thefe huge images, which, large as it maybe fuppofed, was not difproportioned to the other features of this monftrous vifage.. We afcended by a few fteps on the outfide, and after paffing this extraordinary kind of portal, defcended down the chin into the houfe, where we found new matter for aflonifflment in the number of men, women, and children, who compofed the family of the chief; which confifted of *TO*TH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, at leaft eight hundred perfons. Thefe were divided into groupes, according to their refpedive offices, which had thek diftind places affigned them. The whole of the building was furrounded by a bench, about two feet from the ground, on which the various inhabitants fat, eat and flept. The chief appeared at the upper end of the room, furrounded by natives of rank, on a fmall raifed platform, round which were placed feveral large chefts, over which hung bladders of oil, large flices of whale's fleffl, and proportionable gobbets of blubber. Feftoons of human feulls, arranged with fome attention to uniformity, were difpofed in almoft every part where they could be placed, and were confidered as a very fplendid decoration of the royal apartment. »39 1788. When we appeared, the guefts had made a confiderable advance in their banquet. Before each perfon was placed a large flice of boiled whale, which, with fmall wooden diffles, filled with oil and fifh foup, and a large mufcle-fhell, by way of fpoon, compofed the economy of the table. The fervants were bufily employed in preparing to re- pleniffl the feveral diffles as they were emptied, and the women in picking and opening the bark of a tree which ferved the purpofe of towels. If the luxury of this entertainment is to be determined by the vofacioufnefs with which it was eaten, and the quantity that was fwallowed, we muft confider it as the moft luxurious feaft we had ever beheld. Even the children, and fome of them were not more than three years old, pofleffed the fame rapacious appetite for oil and blubber as their fathers. The women, however, are.forbidden from eating at thefe ceremonials. Wicananifh, with an air of hofpitalky which would have graced a more cultivated fociety, met us half way from the entrance, and conduded us to a feat near his own, on which we placed ourfelves, and indulged our S 2 curiofity VOYAGES TO THE curiofity during the remainder of the banquet, in viewing the perfpedive of this lingular habitation. The feaft being ended, we were defired to fhew the prefents which were intended for the chief:—a great variety of articles, brought for that purpofe, were accordingly difplayed, among which were feveral blankets and two copper tea-kettles. The eyes of the whole aflembly were ri vetted on thefe unufual objeds, and a guardian was immediately affigned to the two tea-kettles, who, on account of their extraordinary value and beauty, was ordered to place them with great care in the royal coffers, which confifted of large chefts rudely carved, and fancifully adorned with human, teeth. About fifty men now advanced in the middle of the area, each of them holding up before us a fea otter fkin of near fix feet in length, and the moft jetty blacknefs. As they remained in this poflure, the chief made a fpeech, and giving bis hand in token of friendfhip, informed us that thefe fkins were the return he propofed to make for our prefent, and accordingly ordered them to be immediately fent to the fflip. Our royal hofl appeared to be entirely fatisfied with our homage ; and we, who were equally pleafed with his magnificence, were about to take our leave, when the ladies of his family advanced towards us, from a diftant part of the building, whither they had retired during the entertainment. Two of them had pafled the middle age, but the other two were young, and the beauty of their countenances was fo powerful as to predominate over the oil and red ochre which, in a great meafure, covered them. One of the latter, in particular, difplayed fo fweet an air of diffidence and modefty, that no difgufl of colour, or deformity of drefs, could preclude her from awakening an intereft even in minds cultured to refine- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, 1 + I meat. We had not, very fortunately, difpofed of all the treafure we had . ijftS. bought on fhote, and a few beads and ear-rings that yet remained, ferved ]vfki' to give our vifit a concluding grace, by prefenting them to thefe ladies ot the court. We continued till the 17th, carrying on a very brifk trade with the Tuefdayi7 natives. The chief generally paid us a vifit every day, and we lived on the moft friendly terms with him and the whole village. The natives brought us abundance of fiffl of various kinds. The falmon and falmon- trout was of the beft flavour, and we generally received cod, halibut, rock-fifh, and herrings frefh from the fea; while the women and children fold us cray-fifh, berries, wild onions, fallads, and other efculent plants :——an occafional piece of venifon alfo heightened the luxury of our table. On the 17th, Wicananifh requefted our attendance on fflore to engage in a barter for furs. On our landing, we were conduded, as before, to his houfe, where we found the number of his family to be rather encreafed than diminifhed. No form or ceremony, however, was now employed ; the whole family feemed to enjoy a fociable intercourfe with each other; the women were permitted to eat with the men, and greatly to our fatisfadion, the whole company appeared with the familiarity of unbefmeared faces, fo that we had an opportunity of examining the comelinefs of one fex, and the beauty of the other. This circumftance led us to infer, that thefe people employ paint only on days of feftivity and ceremony. The fea otter fkins and other furs were now produced to the number of thirty, and of the moft beautiful kind; which, after a confiderable deal of negotiation, we at length purchafed ; for we found'to our coft, VOYAGES TO THE that thefe people, like thofe of Nootka, pofleffed all the cunning neeeflary to the gains of mercantile life. The fame rage for prefents prevailed here, as in the Sound ; and even the ladies would interfere in making a bargain, and retard the conclufion of it, till they had been gratified with an added offering. Juft as we were going to embark, there was' a fudden and univerfal confufion throughout the village ; a confiderable number of canoes were inflantly filled with armed men, and being launched in a moment, were paddled to the fflip. At firft we were apprehenfive that fome broil had taken place between the natives and the crew ; but we were foon fatisfied that a matter of political jealoufy, refpeding fome of their neighbours, was the caufe of this fudden commotion. Some ftrangers having ventured to vifit the fflip without the knowledge of Wicananifh, the chief had ordered his people to fall upon the intruders, one of whom they had now feized and brought on fflore. We are forry to add, that this unfortunate man was immediately hurried into the woods, where we have every reafon to apprehend that he was quickly murdered. We made the moft earnefl interceffion in his behalf, and even proceeded to threats on the occafion; but while we were employed in the office of mercy, they, we fear, were enjoying the barbarity of revenge. This event ftrengthened our opinion, that however mild and friendly the behaviour of thefe people might be to us, perhaps under the influence of fear, they were fierce and cruel to each other. Indeed it had been very generally obferved by us all, that at times, their countenances told a very plain tale of afavage mind. The weather was very bad till the 20th, it blowing an hard gale of wind from the South Eaft, with continual rain. At times, alfo, an heavy fwell rolled in upon us, which rendered our fituation very un- pleafant. NORTH WEST COAS T-^-F AMERICA. jB^fi^tt. It was therefore determined that we fflould embrace the firft favourable moment to get into the inner port, which had been already ' rfqtpeyt$, and was found to be not only convenient, but entirely defended.from the winds. In the evening it moderated, when the fflip was got under fail, which was no fooner obferved by Wicananifh than he came on board, and fafely piloted us into the harbour, which we named Port Cox, in honour of our friend John Henry Cox, Efq.—But not chufing to truft entirely to the fkill of the chief on the occafion, the boats were fent a-head to found, • particularly on the bar; on which We had three and an half and four fathoms, and foon after deepened our water to thirteen, fourteen and fifteen fathoms. It then decreafed to eight,, in which depth we dropped our anchor in a fafe and fecure harbour. i78§. VOYAGES TO THE CHAP. XIII. The People of Wicananifh lefs civilized than thofe at Nootka.—Certain neceffary Precautions give offence to, and occafton a Coolnefs between us and the Chief. —Good Underftanding reftored, and the Treaty of Friend/hip renewed.— Reciprocal Prefents pafs on the Occafton.—The Ufe of Fire-arms known to thefe People.—The Village removes to a fmall Diftance.—Treaty between Wicanfinifl:, Hann.a. and Detootche.—Prefents on the Occafton Good Confequenccs refulting to us from the Treaty.—Prefents made to and received from Wicananifh.—Prefent arrives from King George's Sound, &c.—Prepare for Sea,—The Felice proceeds on her Voyage.—Defcription of Port Cox, &c. M ON the firft view, the fubjeds of this chief appeared to be far lefs civilized than our friends at Nootka; we therefore proportionably encreafed our precautions.—Their numbers were very confiderable, and the boldnefs they difcovered in all their tranfadions with us, gave us reafon to believe, that any relaxation of our vigilance might tempt them to a condud which would produce difagreeable confequences to us all. Befides, both In fagacky, as well as adivity, they were very fuperior to the inhabitants of King George's Sound.—Wicananifh, himfelf, though rather inclined to be corpulent, was athletic and adive ;—his brothers, pofleffed the fame advantages ; and all the young men were robuft, in a continual ftate of exercife, and- enured to conftant labour. We obferved, that the moft tempeftuous weather never prevented them from going to'fea, to ftrike the whale or kill the otter:—fifhing was an occu- 5 pation NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. I + pation which was followed only by the inferior claffes of the people.—The 1788. dominions of this chief were very extenfive, and the numerous tribes who J™*" acknowledged his dominion, rendered him a very powerful fovereign. We, therefore, had fufficient reafon to remain in a ftate of preparation againft the poffibility of that mifchief which it was in his power to do us, and which opportunity might tempt him to employ. This vigilance on our part, which was confidered by the chief as dif- truft in his friendfhip, gave him great offence, and occafioned a fhort coolnefs between us.—On the 21ft, Wicananifh obferved that whenever Sunday 2, he paid us a vifit the great cabin was decorated with arms, and that feveral blunderbuffes, &c. were placed on the deck ; and not only left the fflip in great anger, but refufed to trade with us himfelf, and forbade his people from bringing us any fupplies of fifh or vegetables.—It was not, however, by any means, our intereft that things fflould remain in this unpleafant, as well as inconvenient fituation ; it was therefore thought prudent to pay him a vifit ofpeace on the following day ; when, by the Mondays* conciliating prefent of a fword, with a brafs handle, and a large copper diffl, the treaty of friendfhip was renewed; and this reftoration of good humour was confirmed by a prefent of five beautiful otter fkins, a fat doe, and a fupply of fifh for the crew. The generality, as well as friendly condud of the chief, on this occafion, feemed to demand an extraordinary exertion of acknowledgment on ours; and we made him happy beyond expreffion, by adding to his regalia a piftol and two charges of powder; a prefent which he had long folicited. Indeed the ufe of fire-arms was known to this tribe previous to our arrival among them— When the Refolution and the Difcovery firft entered King George's Sound, Wicananifh happened to be there, on a vifit to Maquilla, and then acquired this unfufpeded branch of knowledge. T Oa 146 VOYAGES TO THE On the 28th, we obferved that the whole village removed from their clofe vicinity to the fea, into the inner port, with the fame eafy transfer which we had obferved on a fimilar occafion, at Nootka, and took up •their new pofition-about a mile from the fflip, on a point of land, juft within the entrance of the harbour. We were now formally made acquainted by Wicananiffl, that a treaty was negotiating between the chiefs Hanna and Detootche and himfelf, in which we were to be included ; the fubftance of which was,—that all the furs then in their poffeffion fflould be fold to Wicananiffl;—that they fflould live-in peace and friendfhip with us ;—that all the otter fkins procured after the completion of the treaty, by either of the contrading chiefs, or their people, fflould be difpofed of by themfelves, and that they were all to have common accefs to the fflip, where a fair and equitable market was to be opened for them without diftindion. From the jealoufy which we already knew to fubfift between thefe chiefs, we were perfedly fatisfied, as we fince had convincing proofs, that, on our entering the territories of Wicananiffl, neither Hanna or Detootche would be permitted to trade with, or even pay us a vifit without having obtained a previous permiffion for that purpofe. We had not therefore urged or encouraged an intercourfe, which, though it would have been very advantageous to us, might, and moft probably would have brought on a war between the refpedive fovereigns. This treaty, therefore, gave us that extenfion of commerce which we fo much wiffled, in the regular courfe of friendly negotiation, and we were not backward in forwarding the completion of it. This treaty, which was managed with all the addrefs of refined policy, could not be arranged according to the propofed conditions, without an in- trufion NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, trufion on the treafures of Wicananiffl, to which he knew not how tofub- mit; and this was no lefs than a demand of the copper tea-kettles he fo , highly valued : but as the ceffion of them was made the governing article of the negotiation, they were at length, though reludantly, eonfigned to Hanna and Detootche, who immediately gave up all the otter fkins in their poffeffion. But the chief did not long remain without being fully fatisfied by us for the lofs of his favourite veffels, by our prefenting him with fuch articles as would make him ample reparation, and which he, probably, had in view when he made fuch a facrifice. We therefore, among other things, feleded fix brafs hiked fwords, a pair of piftols, and a mufket, with feveral charges of powder; and we would even have replaced the treafures with which his coffers had been fo lately enriched, but not a a fingle kettle was to be found in the fhip. This prefent was fent on fhore, and, including the returns to it, we had now procured an hundred and fifty fine otter fkins. At this time a canoe very unexpededly arrived from King George's Sound, with a prefent of fifh from Maquilla, who had been made acquainted with all our motions, from the time we left his territories. By the fame opportunity we had the pleafure of hearing that our party were well, and continued to make fpeedy advances towards the completion of the veffel: as one of the people, who was rather more intelligent than the reft, by meafuring a certain number of fpans, contrived to inform us of the adual ftate of the little mamatlee, as he called her ;—by which we underftood that her floor-timbers were laid. The objed of our touching at this port being now fulfilled, by having procured all the furs in the poffeffion of Wicananifh, with fome confiderable fupplies of the fame kind, from Hanna and Detootche, we now prepared to put to fea, to explore the coaft to the Southward of this port. On the 28th, 148 VOYAGES' TO THE 1788. the fflip was warped out of the inner harbour over the bar, and, in the June. evening, the roadfted was cleared ; when we purfued our courfe along fflore, with a light wefterly breeze and fine weather. The harbour of Wicananiffl affords very fecure fflelter, with good- anchorage, both in the roads and the inner port. An archipelago of iflands feems to extend from King George's Sound to this- place, and ftill further to the Southward. The channels between thefe iflands are innumerable ; but the neeeflary occupations of the fflip would not allow us. time to fend out boats for the purpofe of examining them :—as far, however, as our obfervation extended, we are difpofed to believe that there is no channel for fhips but that which we entered,, and which is an exceeding good one.. Thefe iflands are covered thick with wood, with but very few clear ■ • fpots, at leaft that we could difcern. The foil is rich, producing wild berries, and other fruit in great abundance. The timber is of uncommon, fize, as well as beauty,, and applicable to any purpofe:—we faw frequent groves-, almoft every tree of which was fit for mails of any dL- menfions. Among a great variety of other trees we obferved the red oak,, the larch, the cedar, and black and white fpruce fir- In all our commercial tranfadions with thefe people, we were, more-, or lefs, the-dupes of their cunning: and with fuch peculiar artifice did they fometimes condud themfelves, that all the precaution we could, employ, was not fufficient to prevent our being overreached by them. The women, in particular, would play us a thoufand tricks, and treat the difcovery of their fineffe wkh an arch kind of pleafantry that baffled, reproach.—They were very fuperior in perfonal charms to the ladies of Nootka, and pofleffed a. degree of modefty which is not often, to be 1 found NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, found among the favage nations.—No entreaty or temptation in our power could prevail on them to venture on board the fflip. But their beauty was deftroyed by the filthy application of oil and ochre, and a""general inattention to that cleanlinefs which Europeans confider as effential to female charms. We had an opportunity of feeing an in- ftance of their delicacy, which, from its Angularity, may not be thought unworthy of a relation. Among other vifitors of the fflip, we were one day very much furprifed by the appearance of a canoe paddled along by women, and containing about twenty of that fex, without a fingle perfon of the other. As we had never feen a canoe fo freighted before, it very much engaged our attention ; and, while we were contemplating this company .of ladies, a young man leaped fuddenly among them from another canoe ; at which they were fo alarmed, that, though they were elad in their beft array, they all threw themfelves, in an inftant, into the fea, and fwam in a body to the fflore. . The people of Wicananifh are alfo very fuperior in point of induftry and adivity to thofe of King George's Sound. At break of day, without regard to the weather, the village was always empty; the men were employed in killing the whale, hunting the fea otter, or catching fifh, and the women were in the woods, gathering berries, or traverfing the fands and rocks in feareh of cray and fflell-fifh. During our ftay here, many ftrangers arrived from the Southern part of the coaft, on purpofe to vifit us :■ but they were not only forbidden to trade, but to have any communication with us; to which regulation we thought it prudent to fubmit. Thefe vifits were very beneficial to Wicananiffl, and raifed his importance with us, as we found that all thefe | coming from various and diftant diflrids, were fubjed to his power. people, VOYAGES TO THE power. Befides the two villages already mentioned, he had feveral other places of refidence, to which he occafionally reforted, according to the feafon of the year, the calls ofneceffity, or the Invitations ofpleafure. In one of thefe places we reckoned twenty-fix houfes, each of which were capable of containing an hundred inhabitants. In fhort, fuch was the power and extenfive territory of Wicananiffl, that it was very much our intereft to conciliate his regard and cultivate his friendfhip. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERIOA. CHAP. XIV. Purfue our Courfe to the Southward along the Coaft .—Numerous Villages featedon the Shore.—The Inhabitants come off to the Ship, and their Difap- pointment at our not coming to an Anchor.—Difcover the Straits of Juan de Fuca.—Their Extent and Situation—The Natives come off to the Ship. Tatootche comes on board.—A Defcription of him.—Long-boat difpatched to find an Anchorage, and its Return.—Bad Behaviour of the Natives.—Purfue our Courfe along the Coaft.—Short Account of the Straits of Juan de Fuca,—Ifland of Tatootche paffed.—Natives come off to the Ship, &c.— Pafs numerous Villages.—Dangerous Coaft.—Violence of the South Eaft Storms.—Cape Flattery .—Village of Claffett .—Ship enters the Bay of Queenhithe.—Savage Appearance of the Place.—See the Village of^ueeneutell. —Deftru&ion Iftle.—Danger of the Ship, &c. &c. TT7E now left Wicananiffl, and during the night of the 28th we * * fleered Eaft South Eaft, within three leagues of the land ; and on the morning of the 20th, we found ourfelves a-breaft of a large Sound, from whence we faw a number of canoes coming out to meet us. The canoes very foon paddled up to us, and fome of the people came on board. They informed us that there were feveral villages in the Sound, but all under the jurifdidion of Wicananifh.—As we had reafon to believe that the chief had drawn all the furs from this place, we determined to avail ourfelves of the prefent favourable feafen, to proceed 5 to V O YAG E.S TO THE to the Southward, and to call at this place on our return. The natives •employed their.utmoft perfuafions to keep us fometime on their coaft, but on obferving that the fflip was fleering its courfe beyond their villages, they took their leave of us with very evident marks of chagrin arid difappointment. We purfued the courfe to Eaft South Eaft, along the fflore, at the diftance of three miles, having croffed the mouth of the Sound, which we obferved to be of no great depth. At noon the latitude was 480 39' North, at which time we had a complete view of an inlet, whofe entrance appeared very extenfive, bearing Eaft South Eaft, diftant about fix leagues. We endeavoured to keep in with the fflore as much as poffible, in order to have a perfed view of the land. This was an objed of particular anxiety, as the part of the coaft along which we were now failing, had not been feen by Captain Cook; and we knew of no other navigator faid to have been this way, except Maurelle; and his chart, which we now had on board, convinced us that he had either never feen this part of the coaft, or that he had purpofely mifreprefented it. As wecontinued our courfe along the land, we perceived frequent villages on the fflore, from whence we were vifited by canoes filled with people, who in their perfons and manners very much refembled thofe' of Port Cox. The different villages were individually anxious to keep the commerce of the fflip to themfelves, and that we fflould come to an anchor off their refpedive habitations; but as the entire coaft was open to the fea, even if we had been inclined to indulge their requeft, it would not have been in our power. We, however, purchafed feveral fea otter fkins of them, and proceeded on our courfe. By NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. By three o'clock in the afternoon, we arrived at the entrance of the great inlet already mentioned, which appeared to be twelve or fourteen leagues broad. From the maft-head it was obferved to ftretch to the Eaft by North, and a clear and unbounded horizon was feen in this diredion as far as the eye could reach. We frequently founded, but could procure no ground with one hundred fathoms of line. About five o'clock. we hove to off a fmall ifland, fituated about two miles from the Southern land, that formed the entrance of this ftrait, near which we faw a very remarkable rock, that wore the form of an obelifk, and flood at fome diftance from the ifland. In a very fhort time we were furrounded by canoes filled with people of a much more favage appearance than any we had hitherto feen. They were principally cloathed in fea otter fkins, and had their faces grimly bedaubed with oil and black and red ochre. Their canoes were large, and held from twenty to thirty men, who were armed with bows, and arrows barbed with bone, that was ragged at the points, and with large fpears pointed with mufcle-fflcll. We now made fail to clofe in with this ifland, when we again hove to about two miles from the fhore. The ifland itfelf appeared to be a barren rock, almoft inacceflible, and of no great extent; but the furface of it, as far as we could fee, was covered with inhabitants, who were gazing at the fhip. We could by no means reconcile the wild and uncultivated appearance of the place, with fuch a flouriffling ftate of population. The chief of this fpot, whofe name is Tatootche, did us the favour of a vifit, and fo furly and forbidding a charader we had not yet feen. U His V O YAG E S TO THE His face had no variety of colour on if, like the reft of the people, but was entirely black, and covered with a glittering fluid, which added to- the favage fiercenefs of his appearance. He informed us that the power of Wicananiffl ended here, and that we were now within the limits of his government, which extended a confiderable way to the Southward.— On receiving this Information, we made-him a fmall prefent, but he did not make us the leaft return, nor could he be perfuaded to let his people trade with us. We had, indeed, already received fome account of this chief from Wicananiffl, who advifed us to be on our guard againft him and his people, as a fubtle and barbarous nation. It was our defign, if poffible, to eaft anchor here, and, with this view, the long-boat was manned and armed, and fent under the direction of a proper officer, to found between the ifland and the main, in order to find an anchoring-ground. The ftrongeft injunctions were given to avoid, if poffible, any difpute with the natives, and a fmall portion of trading articles was put in the boat, in cafe the natives' fhould be inclined to barter. After the departure of the long-boat for the fflore, which was followed by all the canoes, we kept tacking occafionally near the ifland, which we had now an opportunity of examining with fome degree of minute- nefs; and, in whatever diredion we beheld it, it appeared to be a barren rock, furrounded with reefs, on which the fea broke with great fury. We, however, had fome hope that, between it and the main, a place of fhelter and fecurity might be found, as the fituation would have been very convenient, not only for the purpofe of exploring the ftrait, but alfo for the extenfion of our particular commerce. About NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. About feven in the evening, the long-boat returned without having found any place-fit for anchorage, and having procured but very few furs. The ifland, as the officer informed us, was not of a deceitful appearance ; it was a folid rock, covered with a little verdure, and furrounded by breakers iu every diredion. A great crowd of canoes came off to the boat, filled with armed people, who behaved in a very diforderly manner; feveral of whom jumped into the boat, and took fome trifling articles away by force, and then triumphed in their theft. Our people were highly enraged at fhis co'ndud, and fully difpofed to retaliate;— but the prudence of the officer kept them quiet, who, being fearful of fome unpleafant event, had no fooner made the neeeflary examination, than he returned on board. 1788. We were perfedly convinced that Wicananiffl had drawn from this chief a confiderable quantity of his furs, as we obferved many of our articles about them, which they could not have obtained but from Port Cox or King George's Sound. One of the natives in particular was in poffeffion of a complete fet of coat buttons, which was very familiar to the memory of us all. Being thus difappointed in obtaining an harbour here, we continued our courfe to the Southward, and examined the coaft with great attention, in expedation of finding a place of fecurity, from whence our boats would be enabled not only to examine this ftrait, but other confiderable portions of the coaft. With this view we made fail about eight in the evening, and flood along the fflore, with pleafant and moderate weather. The ftrongeft curiofity impelled us to enter this ftrait, which we fhall call by the name of its original difcoverer, John De Fuca. !$6 VOYAGESTOTHE 1788. Some accounts of the ftraits of John de Fuca are handed down to t» juns. from the very refpedable authority of Haklayt arid Purchas: the former of whom records the opinion which the minifters of Queen Elizabeth entertained of its importance. We had now ocular demonftration of its exiftence,—and we are perfuaded, that if Captain Cook had feen this ftrait, he would have thought i,t worthy of farther examination.— The circumftances which put it out of our power to gratify the ardent defire we pofleffed of executing fuch a defign, will be faithfully relatedy as we purfue the narrative of the voyage. *■ ■" A more particular detail of this remarkable inlet may already have been favoured by the reader's- attention, in the introdudory memoir which treats of the yet probable exiftence of a North Weft paflage. In the morning of the 30th of June, we had made no great progrefi* from the land, as it was calm during the greater part of the night.— The ifland of Tatootche bore nearly South Eaft, diftant ionly three- leagues. About ten o'clock a great number of canoes came from the- ifland, in which there could not be lefs than four hundred men,, among whom we obferved the chief himfelf. They amufed themfelves in paddling round the fflip, every part of which, but particularly the head,, they feemed to behold with extreme admiration : indeed, k is- more than, probable that the greateft part of them had never feen fuch-a veffel before. We had been already fo much difpleafed by the cendudof ther chief, that we did not ithirik proper to invke him on board. ThepartW however, gave us a fong, which did riot differ much from that we heard" in King George's Sound But offended as we might be with the people, we could not but be charmed by their mufic. Situated as we were, on a wild and unfrequented coaft,- in a diftant corner o£ the globe,, far removed from all thofe friends, connedions, land' cksaumftancas , which form the charm and comfort of life, and taking our courfe, as it were,. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, were, through a folkaryocean; in fuch a fituation the fimplernelody of nature, proceeding in perfed unifon and exad meafure from four hundred voices, found its way to our hearts, and at the fame moment awakened and becalmed the painful thought. About noon, a gentle breeze fprung up, when we continued our courfe to the Southward along the fflore, at about the diftance of three miles, and the natives of Tatootche returned to their ifland. As we fleered onwards, canoes continually came off from the villages, -which we obferved from time to time, on the high banks clofe to the fea. The people in the different boats invited us in the moft earneft manner, to fleer in for their refpedive villages ; but no means .we employed, and we took fome pains to effed it, could prevail on any of them to venture on board the fflip. The appearance of the land was wild in the extreme,—immenfe fo- refts covered the whole of it within our fight, down to the very beachr which was lofty and cragged, and againft which the fea dallied with fearful rage. The fflore was lined with rocks and rocky iflets, nor could we perceive any bay or inlet that feemed to promife the leaft fecurity to the fmalleft veffel: and unlefs there were fome narrow coves, which were imperceptible to us, we knew not how the natives could find a fflelter,. even for their canoes; yet the villages we faw were neither inconfiderable in extent or in number. As we fleered along, the force of Southerly ftorms was evident to every eye ;. large and extenfive woods being laid flat by their power, the branches forming one long line to the North . Weft, intermbgled with roots of innumerable trees, which had been torn from their beds, and helped to mark the furious courfe of thefe tern- pefts ; whofe violence may be conceived, when we relied on the great VOYAGES TO THE extent of ocean over which they blow, without a Angle objed to impede their progrefs oY break their violence. About feven in the evening, we had a diftant fight of Cape Flattery, fo named, as it was firft feen, by Captain Cook. It bore South Eaft half Eaft, at the diftance of fix leagues.. This head-land is laid down in the latitude of 480 5' North, and longitude 235° 3' Eaft of Greenwich.— In our accounts there was a very little difference, but we are moft willing to place the error on our fide. We had alfo a near view of the .village of Claffet, which is fituated on an high and fteep rock clofe to the fea. Though this place appeared to be of confiderable extent, one canoe only came off to us, containing thirty men clad in {kins of the fea .otter. The coaft from Cape Flattery feemed now to trend entirely to the Southward ; nor could we perceive any opening-or inlet whatever, that promifedto afford us a place of fhelter. As it was our defign to make a particular examination of this coaft, the fflip was hove to at funfet, for the night. This part of the coaft was lined with rocks, and feveral breakers ran off Claffet, at about the diftance of half a mile. At day-break, we refumed our courfe,. Cape Flattery bearing North North Weft, having been drifted in the night to the Southward. The weather bore a very unfettled appearance, and it blew ftrong from the Weft South Weft, which was nearly on the fflore. At feven, the bay of Queenhithe opened to our view, which we entered with all thofe unpleafing fenfations which may be fuppofed to arife from the refledion, that we were approaching the place where, and the people by whom, the crew of the boat belonging to the Imperial Eagle were maffacred. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ,59 As we fleered along the fflore, we obferved the .fmall river and ifland 1788. of Queenhkhe'; but it became, on.a fudden, fo thick aria gloomy,-that JoiT- the land, which was at about four miles diftance from us, was fearcely difcernible. We faw neither canoes or inhabitants, and an awful filence reigned around us. But though the village of Queenhkhe was obfcured from our view, we could very plainly difcern the town of Queenuitett, which is diftant from it about feven or eight miles. It is fituated on an high perpendicular rock, and is joined by a narrow and im? pregnable caufeway, twenty feet in height, to the main land, which • is an entire foreft. With our glafles we obferved a multitude of houfes fcattered over the face of the rock. As we advanced, Deftrudion Ifland was feen at the diftance of about a mile, fituated in the middle of the bay, and diftant from the main land about two miles: it is low and flat, and without a fingle tree; it however prefented us the rare and pleafant fight of a confiderable fpace covered with verdure; and appeared to be furrounded by breakers, on which an heavy fea rolled, occa- fioned by the South Weft wind. In this pofition we had ten fathoms over a muddy bottom. About eleven o'clock the wind veered to the South Weft, which brought thick weather and rain, and we found ourfelves completely embayed,—a fituation we fflould very gladly have avoided. An heavy fwell already rolled into the bay, which promifed ' to prevent us very effedually from coming to anchor, particularly if it blew from the- South Weft quarter, being diredly on the land, which to the Southward was in fuch a diredion, that a South Eaft courfe would not Weather any part of it; nor, on the other tack, could we hope to wea-- ther the Wefterly land, on account of the great Wefterly fwell. In this fituation we flood, as the better tack, to the South South Eaft, until noon; when, being within half a mile df the fhore, we 5 - were VOYAGES TO THE were obliged to tack, and ftand to the Weft North Weft : our foundings were fifteen and eight fathoms clofe to the land, which was covered with wood to the water's edge. We remarked, however, that the beach was not -very fteep, and here and there we obferved fome bare and fandy patches. We now kept under a prefs of fail, as it blew very ftrong; nor . dared we even to take in a reef of the top-fail; befides the weather was fb thick, that we could not fee a mile a-head of the fflip. We, however, imagined that we fflould be able to weather Deftrudion Ifland, and continued under this croud of fail to avoid the danger-before us ; when, at one o'clock, it cleared up for a moment, and we faw the ifland a point under our lee-bow, at the diftance of a mile and an half, an heavy fea drifting us faft in with the fhore. There was now nothing to be done, but to eaft anchor, which we prepared to do in the wildeft place we ever beheld,-—and where we were morally certain our anchors could not hold, though the bottom was mud, from the ftrong tumbling in of an heavy fea. In this fituation,—the diftrefs of which was not a little enhanced by the refledion that we were on a fflore whofe barbarity our countrymen had already experienced,—ten minutes muft have decided our fate: when providentially the wind, on a fudden, veered to the South South Eaft, which enabled us to tack and fteer off the fflore with a flowing ffleet, and happy in the profped of procuring an offing before night;—for I believe there was not a perfon on board the fflip who had not re- fleded on the melancholy poffibility of his becoming a vidim to the cannibals of Queenhkhe. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. CHAP. XV. Our Progrefs along the Coaft.—Difcover Shoalwater Bay, which is inacceffible to the Ships.—Natives come off.—Their honeft Dealing.—Some Account of them.—We purfue our Courfe.—Deception Bay.—Difference between the- Spanifh Charts of Maurelle and the real Situation of the Coaft.—Beautiful Appearance of the Country.—Pafs Quickfand Bay and Cape Look-out.— See three remarkable Rocks.—Clofe our Progrefs to the Southward.—Future Plan of proceeding.—Knowledge gained of the Coaft.—Parts left unexplored by Captain Cook now vifited.—Reafons for returning to the Northward.— Purfue our Courfe to the North.—Strait of John de Fuca feen again.—Anchor in Port Effingham.—A Defcription of it, &c.—Marine Animals feen, &c. * 1 "^HE wretched fate of the people belonging to the Imperial Eagle, -** evidently predominated in the minds of our crew; and being on the very coaft where fuch an ad of barbarity was. committed, the in- fedious apprehenfion of a fimilar deftrudion fpread generally amongft them. It was the common fubjed of their difcourfe, and had fuch an influence on their fpirits, as to endanger the lofs of the fflip, in a manner which will be related hereafter. We continued {landing to fea all the evening of the- firft of July, when, at midnight, being of opinion that we had fufficient offing, we wore and flood in again for the land. At one o'clock in the morning, the wind veered to the Weft South Weft, which encouraged us to hope for a fufficient degree of favourable weather, to continue our examination of the coaft. X On V O YAG E S TO THE On the morning of the 2d, at feven o'clock, we again faw the land bearing Eaft, at the diftance of feven leagues, which we judged to be a little to the Southward and Eaftward of Queenhkhe. This land was very remarkable from its having the appearance of a faddle, and that part of it obtained the name of Saddle Hill. We computed it to be in the latitude of 460 30' North, and longitude of 2350 20' Eaft of Greenwich. We flood to clofe in with it, when it appeared to be the Southern moft point we had feen the preceding day, from Deftrudion Ifland. The wind veered again to the South South Eaft, and at once damped our hopes of favourable weather. Heavy rain with a thick fog fucceeded, which obliged us to tack and ftand again to fea. The bad weather continued all this day, with an heavy fea from the Weftward, that endangered the long-boat, which we had towed aftem ever fince our departure from King George's Sound. It was, therefore, irnpoffible for us to encounter the land without runnmg into extreme^ danger. Befides, the moon was now near its change, a period which, according to our obfervations, never failed in thefe feas to bring bad weather along with it. We therefore carried a prefs of fail, to obtain a. good diftance from the land ; which was, at this time, an objed of no common confequence. On the 3d at noon, we had a-glimpfe of the fun, and the latitude was 470 46' North.. The wind fflifted to the South Weft, on which we tacked and flood to the South South. Eaft, immediately in for the land. We now were, at about the diftance of twenty leaguesfrom Cape Flattery. During thenighfr the weatKerwas-moderate and clear, and on the 4th the wind fflifted to the South.Eaft", when we again tacked and flood to the Eaft North Eaft, in order to near the land. We ftood thus till fix o'clock in the evening, when the. land was feen bearing from North NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. I( to North Eaft. In the Northern quarter it was of a great height, and 1788. covered with fnow. This mountain, from its very confpicuous fituation, ■ }ahY' and immenfe height, obtained the name of Mount Olympus. We com- (■— puted it to be in the latitude of 470 10' North, and longitude 2350 Eaft of Greenwich. In the North Eaft it ftretched itfelf out to a point, which we judged to be in the latitude of47° 20' North. We kept Saturday $ {landing in for the land, during the night, with a light breeze from the South Eaft ; and at fun-rife on the 5th, it bore from North by Weft, to Eaft by North, our diftance off fflore being 12 leagues; fo that in the night we had been affeded by a confiderable current, which had fet us from the land. At noou the latitude was 470 \' North, and the lofty mountains feen on the preceding day, bore Eaft North Eaft, diftant feven leagues.— Our diftance might be four leagues from the fflore, which appeared to run in the diredion of Eaft South Eaft, and Weft North Weft, and there appeared to be a large found or opening in this diredion. By two o'clock, we were within two miles of the fflore, along which we failed, which appeared to be a perfed foreft, without the veftige of an habitation. The land was low and flat, and our foundings were from fifteen to twenty fathoms over an hard fand. As we were fleering for the low point which formed one part of the entrance into the bay or found, we ffloaled our water gradually to fix fathoms, when breakers were feen to extend in a diredion quite acrofs it, fo that it appeared to be inaccefflhhj to fhips. We immediately hauled off the fflore until we deepened our water to fixteen fathoms. This point obtained the name of Low Point, and the bay that of Shoal-water Bay; and an head-land "that was high and bluff, which formed the other entrance, was alfo named Cape Shoal water. The headland we judged to be in the latitude of 460 47' North, and the longitude 2350 11' Eaft of Greenwich. X2 The VOYAGES TO THE The diftance from Low Point to Cape Shoal-water was too great to admit of an obfervation in our prefent fituation. The fhoals ftill appeared to run from fflore to fflore; but when we were about midway, we again bore up near them, in order to difcover if there might not be a channel near the cape : we accordingly fleered in for the mouth of the bay, when we ffloaled our water to eight fathoms. At this time thebreakers were not more than three miles from us, and appeared to extend to Cape Shoal- water, when it was thought prudent again to haul off. From the maft* head it was obferved that this bay extended a confiderable way inland, fpreading into feveral arms or branches to the Northward and Eaftward. The back of it was bounded by high and mountainous land, which was at a great diftance from us. A narrow entrance appeared to the North Weft, but it was too remote for us difcover, even with glaffes, whether k was a river or low land. We had concluded that this wild and defolate fflore was without inhabitants, but this opinion proved to be erroneous ; for a canoe now came off to us from the point, with a man and boy. On their approach to the fflip, they held up two fea otter {kins; we therefore hove to, when they came alongfide and took hold of a rope, but could not be perfuaded to come on board. We then fattened feveral trifling articles to a cord, and threw them over the fide of the fhip, when they were inftantly and eagerly feized by the boy, and delivered by him to the man; who did not hefitate a moment to tie the two otter fkins to the cord, and waved his hand as a fign for us to take them on board,—which was accordingly done, and an additional prefent immediately conveyed to him in the fame manner as the former. Thefe ftrangers appeared to be highly delighted with their unexpeded treafure, and feemed, at firft, to be wholly abforbed in their attention to the NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, the articles which compofed it; but their curiofity was in a fhort time ,-33, entirely transferred to the fhip, and their eyes ran over every part of it with a moft rapid tranfition, while their adions expreffed fuch extreme admiration and aflonifflment, as gave us every reafon to conclude that this was the firft time they had ever been gratified with the fight of fuch an objed. We endeavoured to make ourfelves intelligible, by addreffing them in the language of King George's Sound, which we had found to prevail from thence to the diflrid of Tatootche ; but they did not comprehend a word we uttered, and replied to us in a language which bore not the leaft refemblance or affinity, as far as we could form judgment, to any tongue that we had heard on the coaft of America. On a particular infpedion, we obferved that the fafflion of their canoes differed from thofe of their more Northern neighbours. In their perfons and cloaths,. indeed, they refembled the people of Nootka; but we obferved no ornaments about them which could lead us to fuppofe that they had ever before communicated with Europeans. Neverthelefs their firft holding; up the otter fkins, and the manner in which they conduded themfelves afterwards, plainly proves that they had an idea of trade: indeed, it is more than probable that fome of the natives of Tatootche's diflrid may have occafionally roamed thus far, and communicated the intelligence of ftrangers arriving in fhips to trade for furs. But there is every reafon to believe that thefe people are of -a different and diftind nation from thofe of King George's Sound, Port Cox, and Tatootche ; nor is it improbable but that this very fpot might be the extreme boundary of their diflrid on the North. In this perfuafion we became doubly anxious to find fome place of fhelter,—fome harbour or port where the fflip . - could 65 i66 1TOYAGES TO THE 1788. could-remain in'fafety, while the boats might be employed in exploring Julv- ithis part of the coaft. During the time weliad been lying to for thefe natives, the fhip had ■drifted bodily down to the fhoals, which obliged us to make fail,-wwfien ■the canoe paddled into the bay. ft was our wiffl to have fent the longboat to found near the fhoals, in order to difcover if there was any channel ; but the weather was fo cloudy, and, altogether, had fb unfettled an appearance, that we were difcouraged from executing fuch a defign.— Nothing, therefore, was left for us but to coaft it along the fhore, and endeavour to find fome place where the fflip might be brought to a fecure anchorage. We therefore continued our courfe; and, by feven o'clock, we were at no great diftance from Cape Shoal-water, when we again had a clear and diftind view of the bay and fhoals.—Our depth of water was fixtcen fathoms, over a fandy bottom, and the land extended to the Eaft South Eaft, from the Cape, from which we were diftant three leagues. The land to the Southward made like iflands, but that circumftance was attributed to the fog, which now came thick upon us. As night came an the fflip was hauled off fflore and hove to, to await the return of daylight. The morning of the 6th was very unfavourable to the bufinefs of making difcoveries; -the wind veered to the North, and blew very ftrong, with a great fea;—Cape Shoal-water bore Eaft by North fix leagues; and the land was everywhere covered with a thick mift; we therefore did not bear up till nine o'clock, when the mift cleared from off the land.—As we approached it our foundings were very regular, from forty to fifteen fathoms, over a fandy bottom.—At half paft NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, ten, being within three leagues of Cape Shoal-water, we had a perfect view of it; and, with the glaffes, we traced the line of coaft to the Southward, which prefented no opening that promifed any thing like an harbour. An high bluff promontory bore off us South Eaft, at the diftance of only four leagues, for which we fleered to double, with the hope that between, it and Cape Shoal-water, we fflould find fome fort of harbour. We now difcovered diftant land beyond this promontory, and we pleafed ourfelves with the expedation of its being Cape Saint Roc of the Spaniards, near which they are faid to have found a good port. By half paft eleven we doubled this cape, at the diftance of three miles, having a clear and perfed view of the fflore in every part, on- which we did not difcern a living creature, or the leaft trace of habitable Kfe. A prodigious Eafterly fwell rolled on the fflore, and the foundings- gradually deereafed: from forty to fixteen fathoms, over a hard, fandy bottom. After we had rounded the promontory, a large bay,, as we had. imagined, opened to our view,., that bore a very promifing appearance^ and into, which we fleered with every encouraging expedation. The high land that formed the boundaries of the bay, was at a great" enftance, and aflat level country occupied the intervening fpace : the bay itfelf took rather a wefterly diredion. As we fleered in, the water fhoaled: to nine,, eight, and feven fathoms, when breakers were feen from the- deck, right a-head; and, from the malt-head, they were obferved to^ extend acrofs the bay. We therefore hauled out,, and direded our courfe tot the oppofite fflore, to fee if there was any channel,.or if we could difcover. any port. ' The name of Cape Difappointmentwas given to the promontory, and; the bay obtained the title of Deception.Bay. By an indifferent meridian , obfervation,. VOYAGES TO THE , obfervation, it lies in the latitude of 46° 10' North, and in the computed longitude of 2350 34' Eaft. We can now with fafety affert, that there is no fuch river as that of Saint Roc exifls, as laid down in the Spanifh. charts : to thofe of Maurelle we made continual reference, but without? deriving any information or affiftance from them. We now reached the oppofite fide of the bay, where difappointment continued to accompany us ; and being almoft certain that there we fhould obtain no place of ffleker for the fflip, we bore up for a diftant head-land,. keeping our courfe within two miles of the fflore. The face of the country, however, affumed a very different appearance • from that of the Northern coaft. Many beautiful fpots, covered with the fineft verdure, folicked our attention ; and the land rofe in a very gradual afcent to the diftant mountains, fkirted by a white fandy beach down to the fea. As we failed along, fpacious lawns and hanging- woods everywhere met the delighted eye,—but riot an human being appeared to inhabit the fertile country of New Albion. As we thus purfued our courfe along the fflore, obferving every part of it with the moft minute attention, a large opening appeared a-head, which once more animated our hopes, and formed a new fource of difappointment. In the offing it blew very ftrong, and a great wefterly fwell tumbled in on the land. By feven o'clock we were abreaft of this opening, the mouth of which, to our great mortification, was entirely clofed by a low fandy beach, nearly level with the fea, which appeared to flow over it, and form an extenfive back-water:—beyond it an open champaign country extended to a confiderable diftance, where it was confined by a boundary of lofty mountains. The NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. The bay was named by us Quickfand Bay, and an adjoining head- 'land Cape Grenville; — the diftant Southerly head-land, we called ■ Cape Look-out. This cape is very high and bluff, and terminates abruptly in the fea. At about the diftance of two miles from k there rofe three large rocks, which were very remarkable, from the great refemblance they bore to each other.—The middle one has an archway, perforated, as it were, in its centre, through which we very plainly difcovered the diftant fea.—They more particularly attraded our notice, as we had not obferved between King George's Sound and this place, any rocks fo confpicuoufly fituated from the land:—their diftance from each other might be about a quarter of a mile, and we gave them the name of the Three Brothers. By eight in the evening we were within three leagues of Cape Lookout, which we judge to lie in the latitude of 450 30' North, and in the longitude of 2350 50' Eaft of Greenwich. We were now convinced that there was no opening between the Cape and Quickfand Bay. As we had met with nothing but difcouragement, we here gave up all furtherpurfuit, and clofed our progrefs to the Southward :—we therefore hauled our wind, in order to proceed again to the Northward. i6p It was our intention to take our courfe to the great bay or found which we had pafled the day after our departure from Port Cox, and from whence a large company of the natives came off to us. This bay had, indeed, been already vifited by the fflip Imperial Eagle, where we had found a fecure anchorage: from thence we propofed to fend the long-boat, in order to explore the ftraits, and to afeertain whether the inhabitants were a people diftind from thofe of Nootka Sound. y We VOYAGES TO THE We had now obtained no inconfiderable knowledge of the Coaft of America, from King George's Sound to Cape Look-out: that is, from the latitude of 450 37' North, to the latitude of 490 3/ North.—We had not only traced every part of a coaft which unfavourable weather had prevented Captain Cook from approaching, but bad alfo afcertained the real exiftence of the Strait of John de Fuea, which now renewed its claim to our attention. We moft anxkwfly wiffled to have continued our inquifitive courfe to the Southward, as far, at leaft, as latitude 420, where it is faid Captain Caxon found a good harbour; but the feafon was already fa much advanced, that had we gone fo far to the- Southward, we fflould not have been able to return to King George's- Sound before the equinodial gales fet in ;—a feafon to be dreaded on tbis- eoafl, more efpecially when we knew of no harbour where we could take- refuge againft the violence of it:—Befides, we were influenced by a very natural anxiety concerning the pasty we had left ^tNootka :—they might have been m want of our affiftance, and various ciFComftances might , have arifen, which would render our return of importance to them, at leaft before the month of September:—Befides, if we had purfued our courfe to the Southward, we ftujiuld have been altogether prevented from examining the ftrait; as the bad weather which we had every reafon to believe we fflould experience on our return, might, and in all probability would, prolong the courfe of it to the middle of Auguft.—As it was, we feldom enjoyed a focceffion of three days without either fog or raku The equinodial gales blow with great fury on the coaft of America, and generally fet in from the i-©th to the 15th of September, We were therefore apprefcen&ve- tha* they might drive us off the coaft, and force us, perhaps, to fleer to the Sandwich Iflands, and, of courfe* to leave the party at Nootka in a fituation; of difficulty anddanger. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. i; Such were thereafons which determined us to return to the North, I788* and to keep King. George's Sound open, at all events, let the winds or JULY- weather be what they might. This meafure was alfo effentially neeeflary, as it was already agreed that on the 20th of September one of the fflips fflould leave the American coaft on her return to China; but before this . part of our expedition could be put in execution, the new veffel was to be launched and equipped for fea, and near three thoufand fathoms of cordage manufadured,—a bufinefs which would employ a more numerous crew than our fflip contained. At fun-rife of the 7th,Cape Look-out was feen, bearing Eaft by South, Mon&yj at the diftance of twelve leagues. Our latitude at noon was 450 12' Norti^,. and the variation of the compafs only 160 10'Eaft. It was the 10th of July before we again made the land, when at noon TJhurfday i» we difcerned the high land forming the Eaftern fflore in the Straits of de Fuca; and, at fun-fet, we faw the Eafternmoft head-land of the large found near Port Cox^ which obtained from us the name of Cape Beale : this head-land bore North by Eaft, diftant ten leagues. The variation of the compafs was here r8° 30' Eaft. On the 1 ith,.in the morning, we were off the mouth of this found, Fridays which appeared extenfive, but of no great depth. Several iflands were placed nearly in the middle of it, which were rather high, and well wooded. The long-boat was fent to find the anchoring-ground, and, above eleven o'clock, ffle returned to pilot us into a fine fpacious port, formed by a number of iflands, where we anchored in eight fathoms water, over a muddy bottom, and fecurely ffleltered from wind and fea. A large number of natives immediately came off in their canoes, and brought abundance of fifh; among which were falmon, trout, cray, and y 2 other T?2~ .178 VOYAGES TO THE other fflell-fifh, with plenty of wild berries and onions. Thefe people belonged to a very large village, fituated on the furnmit of a very high hill.—This port we named Port Effingham, in honour of the noble Lord of thaj title. On the 12th, the fails and running rigging were unbent, a party of waterers were fent on fflore, and the reft of the cjrew were employed about the neeeflary duty of the fflip. This found had been vifited by Captain Barclay, of the Imperial Eagle, in the year 1787, who named it Barclay Sound. The found itfelf is very extenfive, and contains feveral feattered iflands, entkely covered with wood. On the main land there are large and populous villages, well watered by rivulets, where great numbers of falmon are taken, which, when properly prepared, conflkute a principal part of their winter's food. The port is fufficiently capacious to contain an hundred fail of fhips,-^ and fo fortunately fheltered as to fecure them from any ftorm. —The anchorage is alfo good, being a foft mud, and the watering place perfedly convenient. In our paffage from Cape Look-out to Port Effingham, we faw num- of fea otters playing in the water with their young ones ; but at the {hip's approach they quickly difappeared. Once or twice we paffed within a few yards of fome of them, as they were fleeping on thek backs in the fea. At firft we tobk them for pieces of drift-wood, till, on being awakened be the noife of the fflip, they inftantly dived away. We alfo faw many whales of the fpermaceti kind, and feals without number,' befides other huge marine animals. 5 C H A P. 1 s 0 f ^ f 3 % [ m j NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA. C H A P.^ XVI. Take poffeffion of the Straits of de Fuca in the Name of the King of Great Britain.—Viftted By the Natives,—Pleaf ant Situation of the Ship.—Long-boat equipped and fent on an Expeditions—TheObjeSt of it.—Strangers refort to the Ship.—Anxiety on Account of the Long-boat, which at length arrives.— Reafon of her quick Return..—Confiibl with the Natives of the Straits of de Fuca, and the Confequences of it.—Valour of thofe People.—The dangerous Situation of the Boat and Crew.—Diftance advanced up the Straits of de Fuca.—Poftiion of them.—Human Heads offered to fale.—Damp thrown en the Spirits of the Crew.—Prepare for Sea.—Leave Port Effingham.—- An Account of the Port and Sound.—Progrefs of the new Veffel, &c.— Succefs in collebfing Furs.—Attention of Maquilla. TT may not be improper to mention that we took poffeffion of the -*- ftraits of John de Fuca, in the name of the King of Britain, with the forms that had been adopted by preceding navigators on. fimilar occafions. On the 30th of July, a confiderable number of natives vifited the fflip in this ftation, from whom we purchafed furs of various kinds.— But it was obferved by us, that they were not accompanied by their chiefs, or indeed any perfbn of authority amongft them. They alfo brought us great plenty of falmon,^ which, in delicacy of flavour, far exceeded that of Nootka Sound, with large quantities of fhell-fiffl, and the refrefhing as well as falutary provifion of wild onions, and fruits of their VOYAGES TO THE 788. their woods; with which nature had kindly furnifhed every part of the coaft where we had any communication with the natives of it. It was now the height of fumme-r, the weather was warm and plea- fant; and we very fenfibly enjoyed the benign influence of the delightful feafon. Not a fingle patch of fnow was vifible on the fummits of the lofty moUjikains-which furrounded the found. We could not, therefore, but derive a moft refrefhing fatisfadion from our temporary repofe in this calm and charming fituation. We embraced the prefent favourable opportunity to difpateh the longboat, not only to explore the ftraits of de Fuca, but to procure, if poffible, fome knowledge of the people of Shoalwater-Bay. She was, therefore, properly equipped for the occafion, was manned with thirteen of our people, and furniffled with provifions for a month. The command of her was given to Mr. Robert Duffin, our firft officer, to whom written inftrudions were delivered, by which he was to govern himfelf in the condud of this little expedition.—On the 13th, the boat departed on its . voyage of difcovery. The crew employed on this occafion, added to the party we had fpared for the fervice of King George's Sound, had fo diminifhed our fflip's company, that it became abfolutely neceffary for us to put ourfelves in the beft poffible ftate of preparation, in cafe our prefent neighbours, who are a numerous, bold, and powerful people, fhould be tempted by a knowledge of our weaknefs to make an attack. All the guns were therefore mounted; the arms got ready for fervice, and orders iffued that none of the natives fhould, on any pretence whatever, be fuffered to come on board the fhip. Imrae- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Immediately after the departure of the long-boat, a confiderable number of canoes from the Northward, came along-fide us, few, if any, of which contained lefs than thirty men, and many of them more, befides women and children. Among our vifitors we recolleded the faces of feveral whom we had already feen at Port Cox, of which place they we're inhabitants. The others were natives of the Weftern fflore which ftretches down to the ftraits, and which forms a part of the extenfive territories of Wicananiffl. That prince, it feemed, had lately given a fplen- did feaft to a large number of hissprincipal fubjeds ; and from the great quantrty of thofe articles he had received from us, which we now perceived among them, there was every reafon to fuppofe that he had added to the fplendour of his banquet, by dividing his treafures among thofe who had the honour of being invited to it. i. Nothing material occurred till the 20th : the weather continued to be Sunday 2 extremely fine, and our communication with the natives was on terms of reciprocal good underftanding. They daily reforted to us with furs, fifh and vegetables, and fometimes an occafional prefent of very fine venifon added its luxury to the common plenty of our table. But in our prefent ftate of inadivky, the fituation of the long-boat was continually prefling home upon our minds with the hopes of fuccefs, or the fears of calamity. The favage nature of the people who inhabited the parts which our friends were gone to explore, operated to alarm the one ; at the fame time that our "confidence In thekfkill, courage, and good condud, animated the other.— While, however, our imaginations were following them in their voyage, with the moft affedionate foUcitude, they were on the verge of deftruc- tion, and threatened with fflaring the abhorrent fate of their countrymen who were devoured by the cannibals of Queenhkhe. I VOYAGES TO THE On the evening of the 20th, we faw the fails of the long-boat in the offing; but the fudden impulfe of our unrefleding joy on the occafion, was immediately checked by the apprehenfions that naturally arofe in our minds from her early return. The interval of her arrival at the fflip was a period of very painful fufpenfe to every one on board : at length, to our inexpreffible fatisfadion, we obferved, on her coming along-fide, that not an individual was miffing. Our immediate attention, •however, was called to the affiftance of feme wounded men, who had fuffered feverely in a very violent conflid the boat had fuftained with the natives of the ftraits, and which was the caufe of her fudden return. The whole attention of the fflip was now transferred to our wounded people; but though feveral of them were much hurt, we were confoled with finding that no mortal injury had been received by any. The officer was wounded by a barbed arrow in the head, which would have killed him on the fpot, if a thick hat had not deadened the force of the ^weapon. One of the feamen was pierced in the breaft, and another in the calf of the leg, into which the arrow had entered fo far as to render a very large incifion abfolutely neeeflary, in order to difcharge it. A fourth received a wound very near the heart, but the weapon which gave it, very fortunately fell fhort of the vital parts. The reft of the people were bruifed in a terrible manner by the ftones and clubs of the enemy; even the boat itfelf was pierced in a thoufand places by arrows, many of which remained in the awning that covered the back part of it; and which, by receiving the arrows, and breaking the fall of large ftones thrown from flings, in a great meafure faved our party from inevitable de- ftrudion. I _£//,- ff;w,drM r» lie latitude. „f-,fAr.„^n Caf^ AmhdauffMk -»■ ' NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. In this engagement the natives behaved with a fpirit and refolution that rafifted the ufual terror of fire-arms among a favage people ; for the contefl was clofe, and for fome time our men fought for their lives.— One of them had been fingled out by an individual favage for his vidim, and a fierce engagement took place between them. The native was armed with a flone bludgeon, and the failor with a cutlafs. They both rnanifefted, for fome time, equal courage and dexterity ; but if an intervening oar had not broke a blow, armed with all the force of his enemy, ' our brave countryman muft have funk beneath it. It however failed of its objed, and gave him an opportunity, by a fevere ftroke of the cutlafs, to deprive the native of an arm, who, notwithftanding fuch a lofs, and feveral other wounds, contrived to fwim from the boat, indebted for his life to the noble mercy of his conqueror, who difdained to kill him in the water. The feaman who was wounded in the leg, continued, during the adion, with the arrow in his flefh ; and without attempting to rid himfelf of the torturing weapon, became, by his courageous and adive exertions, a very principal inftrument in preferving the boat. Though we had never had any intercourfe or communication with the inhabitants of the flraits, we had indulged ourfelves with the hope that our friendly condud towards their neighbours, might, by fome means, have reached the diflrid of their habitation, and given them favourable impreffions of us : but their condud marked the moft favage and bloody hoftilky ; and the fury of their onfet compelled a fimilar fpirit of re- fiftance : butjo do juftice to the humanity of our people,—notwithftanding the adual fufferings of many of them, and the cruel fate which they well knew would have been the certain allotment of them all, -had they loft the day,—they never failed, in recounting the circumftances of V O YAG E S TO THE of it, to exprefs an unfeigned concern for the unhappy people who -ted 10 rafhly courted their own deftrudion. The attack was begun by the favages,—who boarded the boat, with the def^ga of taking her, in two canoes, containing between forty and fifty men, who were moft probably fome of their choiceft warriors. Several other canoes alfo remained at a fmall diftance, to affift in the attempt; and the .fhore was every where lined with people, who difcharged at our veffel continual fhowers of ftones and arrows. A chief in one of the canoes, who encouraged the advance of the others, was moft fortunately fflot in the head with a fingle ball, while in the very ad of throwing a fpear of a moft enormous length at the cockfwain. This circumftance caufed the canoes to draw back, and deprived the natives who were already engaged, of that fupport which muft have enfured them the vidory. Indeed, as it was, when we confider that the boat's company confifted only of thirteen men^ who were attacked with the moft-courageous fury by fuperior numbers, and galled as thefe were, at the fame moment, by the numerous weapons conftantly difcharged from the fflore, their efcape is to be numbered among thofe favourable events of life, which never fail to excite, in well ordered minds, a mingled fenfation of gratitude and aflonifflment. The boat had advanced a confiderable way up the Straits of de Fuca, and had entered a bay or harbour; when, as our people were preparing to land for the purpofe of examining it, they were attacked by the natives, as has been juft related ; and, of courfe, effedually obftruded in the purfuit of their original defign. From this ftation, however, they obferved, that the ftraits to the Eaft North Eaft appeared to be of great extent, and to encreafe rather than diminifh. As LiL NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. As they returned down the ftraits, they were met by a fmall canoe paddled by two men, who were the fubjeds of Wicananiffl, and from whom they purchafed fome fifh. But Words cannot exprefs the furprife and abhorrence of our people, when thefe favages held up two human heads, but juft cut off, and ftill ftreaming with blood, by way of offering them to fale. They held thefe deteftable objeds by the hair with an air of triumph and exultation; and, when the crew of the hoat difcovered figns of difguft and deteftation at fuch an horrid fpedacle, the favages, in a tone, and with looks of extreme fatisfadion, informed them, that they were the heads of two people belonging to Tatootche, whom they had murdered, as that chief had lately declared war againft Wicananiffl. This circumftance threw a damp upon the fpirits of the crew, which continued, more or lefs, through the whole of the voyage. Though the boat had not fucceeded in the principal objed of our expedition, yet it did not return without being able to communicate fome knowledge of the ftraits of de Fuca. She had failed near thirty leagues up the -ftrait, and at that diftance from the fea it was about fifteen leagues broad, with a clear horizon ftretching to the Eaft for 15 leagues more.— Such an extraordinary circumftance filled us with ftrange conjedures as to the extremity of this ftrait:, which we concluded, at all events, could not be at any great diftance from Hudfon's Bay:—An opinion which is1 confidered at large in the Introdudion to this volume. We were now obliged to give up all hope of obtaining any further fatisfadion concerning the extent of the ftraits, or of the particulars of Shottlwater Bay, at leaft for this feafon. We therefore prepared to return with all poffible expedition to join our party in King George's Sound. j8o voyagestothe 1788. On the 21 ft, we put to fea with the tide of ebb, and by noon we July* were entirely clear of the Sound, Our latitude was 480 41' North, and Port Effingham bore North Weft by North, at the diftance of five miles. During our ftay in this port, we were vifited by a great variety of people, who refided at different places between Port Cox and the ifland of Tatootche. But none of thofe who inhabit the country up the ftrait ventured to approach us : perhaps the fear of Tatootche, whofe ifland is fituated at the very entrance, and is faid to contain near five thoufand people, might prevent them from coming to the fflip. In this ftation we procured a confiderable quantity of very fine fea- otter {kins, with abundance of fifh, confifting of falmon, halibut, herrings, fardonies, cod, trout, and rock-fiffl. We were alfo furniffled with a continual fupply of vegetables and fruits of the woods ; particularly a kind of wild currant, which grows on trees of a tolerable fize. The found is, by no means, fo extenfive as that of Nootka. Itaffords^ however, feveral places of fhelter, but none of them are fo commodious as Port Effingham, which is entirely fecure from all winds. The coaft every where abounds with timber for fflip-building, and which would form the fineft mails and fpars in the world. Tuefday ** During the whole of the 2 2d the wind blew from the Weft North. Weft, with which we flood to fea to the South Weft, till noon of the Wednefd»y23 23d, when the latitude was 480 36' North. At this time we had made fo confiderable an offing that we left fight of land; when, at three in the afternoon, the wind veering to the South Weft, we tacked and flood to the Weft North Weft, to make the land. J NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. jgj In the morning of the 24th, the wind fflifted to the Southward, which 1788. brought thick, hazy weather, and of courfe prevented us from clofing TburiHay** with the fflore. Towards noon, however, it cleared away, and the latitude was 490 40' North : but we fcarcely had taken the meridian, when the fog returned, and on founding, we had no more than twenty fathoms of water; on which we tacked immediately and flood to fea. At four o'clock it again cleared up, when Breaker's Point was feen bearing Eaft by South, diftant four leagues, arid our diftance from the land was only three leagues; fo that when we tacked, we muft have been clofe. on board it. The thick, mifty weather did not entirely clear away till the morning Friday 2$ of the 25th, when the entrance of King George's Sound was feen bearing Eaft North Eaft, at the diftance of fix leagues ; but it again came on fo very foggy, that it would have been imprudence in the extreme to have run for the land. About eight o'clock in the morning of the 26th, we happily anchored Saturday *<» fafe in Friendly Cove; when we enjoyed the very great fatisfadion of finding our friends in perfed health and fecurity, as well as the veffel in a forward ftate of advancement: ffle was completely In frame, part of her fides were planked, her decks laid, and moft of her iron work finifhed. During our abfence a confiderable quantity of furs had been colleded, not only from the natives, but from various companies of ftrangers, whom the fame of the veffel had induced to vifit Nootka, in order to fa- tisfy their curiofity with the fight of fuch. an objed.. Maquilla VOYAGES TO THE Maquilla had'ferupuloufly adhered to every part of his engagement, and the faithful Callicum had attended to the welfare and fafety of our people, with the vigilance of honour, and the affedion of friendfhip: the inhabitants of the village'in his jurifdidion, not only brought daily and plentiful fupplies of fifh and other provifions to the houfe, but gave the party every affiftance in their power, by his immediate orders. Nor is it poffible for us to relate his zealous regard and unfflaken attachment to us, without lamenting the unmerited fate he received, from the unfeeling arid execrable condud of men who were natives of the moft enlightened quarter of the globe, and boaft the profeffion of a reh> gion of peace and mercy. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. CHAP. XVli. Anxiety of the Party on Shore on Account of the Ship.—Reports fpread by the Natives.—Knowledge obtained by the Party of our Engagement in the Straits qfDe Fuca, and its Confequence.—Improvement made in the Houfe, &c. during the Abfence of the Felice.—The Aftonifhment of the Natives at the Building of the Veffel, with their peculiar Attention to the Employment of the Smiths.—Our Obfervation of the Sabbath an Objecl of particular Curiofity to ihe Natives.—Some Knowledge of their Religion derived from thence.—Defiign of proceeding again to Port Cox.—Reafom affigned for not flopping there on our Return from Port Effingham. — Our Intentions fruftrated.—-Mutiny on Board.—The Perfons concerned in it turned on Shore.—And the Reafons for fuch a Meafure, &c. IF, during our progrefs to the Southward, we felt at times a v&f poignant anxiety for the fafety and welfare of thofe whom we had left on fhore, it cannot be fuppofed, for a moment, that they were not affeded by fimilar fenfations for their friends on board the Felice- who were gone to encounter the dangers of thofe feas where k was doubted that ever fflip .had ploughed the water, and to explore thofe coafts which they did not fuppofe an European foot had ever trod.—- Their fblickude was equal to our own; and their intervals of labour were conftantly employed in counting the hours of our abfence^—dflfer- ing up prayers for our fafety,—and joining in wifhes for our return.— But this was not all—the natural concern they muft feel on our account, 5 was xg4 VOYAGES TO THE 1-788. was heightened into the moft painful alarm, from a report brought them Julv. by fome of the fubjeds of Wicananiffl, which contained an account of our having been attacked by the people of Tatootche, who had cut to pieces a part of the crew of the Felice; and that the principal officers were among thofe who had fallen in the conteft.—Such a relation, which eould not be fuppofed, by the moft incredulous of our people, to be a mere invention, threw them into a ftate of confufion that checked the growing ardour of their exertions, and eaft a gloom over them which the utmoft efforts of their refolution, and the fpirit neeeflary to encounter a repeated acceffion of difficulties, was not able entirely to dif- fipate.—This report, however, proved to be an entire fabrication of thofe who brought it, as it was previous to the adion of our long-boat with the natives of the Straits, which might have, in fome degree, juftified an exaggerated account of that unfortunate event.—From what motives this falfhood was fabricated, we never could difcover, or, indeed, form any thing like a fatisfadory conjedure. A full and faithful account, however, of our proceedings in Port Effingham, and a particular defcription of our wounded feamen, was brought to Nootka Sound, by a native of that port, who had arrived to difpofe of a cargo of furs to Maquilla. L Arriong other unpleafant confequences of this report, it put an end, for fome time, to all communication between the natives of King George's Sound and the houfe; and occafioned our people, who were under the afliiding apprehenfions that they fflould never fee us more, to redouble their precautions till the arrival of the Iphigenia—-Their joy, therefore, may be more eafily conceived than defcribed, when they faW the Felice enter the Sound, and beheld every perfon on board in health and fpirits, who had departed with her. The J NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. r&5 The fituation and circumftances in which we found our little colony 1788. at our return, very evidently proved their diligence, as well as attention ^VLT' to the orders left with them for their condud during ourabfence. The houfe had been rendered perfedly fecure from any attack of the natives, though they fflould have employed their whole force againft it. A pali- fado of ftrong ftakes, with a well-formed fence of thick buffles, had rendered our ground, in a great meafure, impregnable. Various other improvements, of lefs confequence, had been made, as new ideas of convenience and utility fuggefted themfelves, which, altogether, gave the place an appearance of a little dock-yard, and not only eugroffed the attention, but excited the aflonifflment of the Nootkan people. Our abfence from the Sound had been only one month and twenty-five days; and in this time, as we have already particularized, a very expeditious advance had been made in the veffel.—She was, as may be very naturally fuppofed, an objed "of great curiofity among the natives, who could never be perfuaded that fuch a body of timber would find a power equal to the removal of it from the flocks on which it was building.—But their moft inquifitive attention employed kfelfon the work- fflop of the fmiths/and the operation of the forges. Their fimple minds, in a ftate fo diftant from the knowledge of enlightened nature and the cultivated world, beheld, with all the extravagance of infantine delight, the mechanic {kill of our artificers.—Nor was their intereft lefs engaged than their curiofity, in attending to thofe powers which fabricated the - variety of articles that added fo much to the pride, the pleafure, and the convenience of their lives.—Indeed they were continually making application to have iron forged into forms of ufe or ornament; and fo very fickle were they in the objeds of their fancy, that it became a rnat- ter of confiderable trouble to fatisfy their varying inclinations.—It was therefore determined to turn this changeful difpofition to our own ad- A a vantage, VOYAGES TO THE vantage, by enhancing the value of indulging it; in confequence of which.regulation, the daily fupply of provifions was confiderably augmented, and fifh and fruit were brought in encreafing abundance. The 27th, being Sunday, the crew had leave toamufe themfelves with a ramble on fflore. The.weather was extremely pleafant,—the air was genial,—and every one wore in his looks the fatisfadion he felt, on ea- . joying a ceffation from labour, and the indulgence of eafe and fecurity.— Indeed k was our conftant cuftom to pay all poffible refped to the fab- bath, and to fulfill its defign, whenever it was in our power, by making it a day of reft. The natives could not, at firft, comprehend why all our occupations- flood ftill on this day :—but the different cloathing of the men, and, particularly, the clean faces of the fmiths and armourers, awakened their curiofity fo far as to produce an enquiry of us concerning this incompre- henfible regulation.—The manner of their receiving our explanation, -gave us fome infight into their religion, which will be the fubjed of a future page. On the 28th, we refumed our work, and a large party was- font into the woods to fell timber, for the purpofe of planking the veffel, which was a very laborious bufinefs, as there were large logs to be conveyed upwards of a mile, through a thick forefl, to our little dock-yard.—The remainder of the crew were employed, either in making cordage, affifting the carpenters, or preparing the fflip for fea. It was now determined to put our defign in execution of proceeding In a few days to Port Cox, to pay another commercial vifit to Wicananiffl- It was, indeed, our original intention to have taken that place in our way - NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. l8- way back from Port Effingham ; but the accident of the long-boat, in 1788. the Straits of de Fuca, and our impatience to return to our friends in the j0^'- Sound, predominated over every other confideration.' But as we were now perfedly fatisfied as to the fituation and progrefs of the party at Nootka, it was agreed to proceed again to fea, as we expeded to reap very confiderable advantages from the numerous hunters of Wicananiffl, who, we had every reafon fuppofe, would, by this time, have accumulated a very large quantity of furs. Nor did we hefitate to believe, that our reception from that chief would be more gracious, as it was now in our power to replenifh his coffers with fuch an ineftimable article as a copper tea-kettle. But this defign was unfortunately fruftrated by a very dangerous mutiny again breaking out, which was pregnant with confequences of the moft alarming nature. This mutiny was headed by the difgraced boatfwain, and the beft men in the fhip.—They made a defperate attempt to feize the arms and put the firft officer to death, who was left to take care of the fflip; as every other perfon in command was on fflore, in the engagement of his duty, or for the purpofe of recreation. The time which was chofen for this enterprize was well imagined, as it was in the evening, on their return from the woods, and when, as we firft obferved, there was but one officer on board. Ever fince the firft fymptoms of mutiny appeared off the Philippines, the arms had been removed from the quarter-deck to the cabin; and this ■ precaution faved the fhip : for the officer having fortunately gained the cabin before the mutineers, he placed himfelf at the door With a loaded blunderbufs, and kept them from advancing, while he called aloud for affiftance. It was a fortunate circumftance that moft of the officers were fitting on the quarter-deck of the new veffel, which was A a 3 not 88 VOYAGESTOTHE 1788. not more than an hundred yards from the fflip. We therefore inftantly July. heard the alarm through the cabin-window, and did not delay an inftant in getting on board the fflip. The firft ftep we took was to arm ourfelves.:—when, being thus pre^- pared, we turned the crew on deck, as we were determined to face the bu- finefs on the inftant. We well knew that there were many good men in .the fflip ; and we refolved, if poffible, to feparate them from the reft, before they were prevailed on, by any means, to join in the plot. The. crew being now all on deck, it inftantly appeared who were the ringleaders in the bufinefs, though we .had fome reafon to apprehend that, the mutiny was a matter of general agreement. We then informed them that it was our determination to proceed to extremities; and warned fuch as were difpofed to be obedient, to feparate themfelves from the reft:—When, on prefenting our arms, moft of the crew came over to us, leaving eight turbulent fellows, headed by the discarded boatfwain, who remained deaf to all our perfuafions to return to their duty.—As we were now very fuperior in numbers, we hoped to fettle the matter without ffledding a drop of blood on the occafion. We therefore left them the alternative, either to go into irons, or be turned on fflore among the favages. They preferred the latter,—and were im- diately landed, with every thing^that individually belonged to them. They were no fooner gone than good order and difcipline were reftored. Inftrudions, however, were fent to the party on fflore, not to permit the mutinous people to find a fhelter at the houfe, or to be admitted to any communication with them. A ftrid watch was alfo kept on board, as we were not, by any means, without our doubts concerning the difpofi- tions of the reft of the crew. We NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. We were not informed of the whole extent of the plot till the following day, when one of the failors came and gave a voluntary account of it. Almoft all the crew had figned a paper, by which they bound themfelves to join in getting poffeffion of the fflip, when they were immediately to quit the coaft of America, and fleer their courfe to the Sandwich Iflands; from whence they propofed to make the beft of their way to fome port where they might difpofe of their valuable cargo.—As they had taken care to deftroy the writing, we could not difcover what their intentions were with refped to the officers, — but the beft treatment they could have expeded, would have been to be left at Nootka. Every individual of the crew, remaining on board, was eager to exculpate him- felf; and they all joined in declaring, that the menaces of the ringleaders alone wrung from them a temporary confent to join in the mutiny; and the fear of being inftantly murdered, was the only caufe of preventing them from giving notice of the plot to the officers of the fflip. Had we been acquainted with thefe circumftances on the preceding evening, in all probability it would not have paffed without bloodfhed ; but our ignorance of them fortunately preferved us from fuch a cataftrophe- The ringleaders were now, atleaft, removed from any opportunity of doing mifchief, by being clear of the fflip ; for, befides the attention they would have required, had they been kept in irons,—we could not, even in fuch a fituation, have prevented their communication with the other feamen ; which might have been employed in creating difcontents, if not in endeavouring to form new plans for effeding their atrocious purpofes. 'We determined therefore that they fhould remain on fflore, at leaft tilL " the arrival of the Iphigenia. CHAP. VOYAGES TO THE CHAP. XVIII. Conduct of the Party on Shore refpebling the Mutiny.—Promife made to the Crew to go to the Sandwich Iflands.—Occupation of the Ship's Company.—The Mutineers go to live with Maquilla and Callicum.—They are ftripped of their Cloaths, and made to work.—Princefs Royal feen in the Offing.—Prepare for Sea.—§>uit King George's Sound a fecond Time.—Prefents made to Maquilla and Callicum.—Thofe Chiefs prepare for War.—Arms lent to them,—Strength of Maquilla's Forces.—He departs on his Expedition to the Northward.— InftruSlions given to the Party on Shore. THIS difturbance on board the fflip occafioned, at firft, no little un- eafinefs as to the influence it might have on the remaining part of our voyage; but we were not enly confoled, but encouraged in favourable expedations, by the condud of the party on fflore, who not only declared their deteftation and abhorrence of the mutinous defigns, in the moft forcible terms, but took every method which their underftandings could fuggeft, to fatisfy us of their obedient difpofition and fenfe of duty.— They renewed their affurances of fidelity to us -in the moft folemn manner, and we did not withhold the confidence we believed them to deferve. This mutiny furprifed us the more, as no relaxation of duty had taken place fince our departure from China. The crew had been kept ftridly to the various occupations which our circumftances required, but Without that rigour which . begets difcontent ; and they moft certainly did not enjoy the leifure which idlenefs fo often appropriates to mifehief. As J to NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 191 to the folly of their defign, that is not a matter which will juftify a mo- 1788. ment's wonder. It is very fortunate for mankind that wickednefs fo JuLY- often wants judgment: in this cafe, the defign of running away with the fflip arofe from little more than the impatience of their paffions to get to the Sandwich Iflands, which we had declared to be a part of our voyage, and where they longed to folace themfelves in the enjoyments afforded by thofe voluptuous abodes.—As to any fubfequent arrangements, they had probably left them; with all the improvidence of a failqrV charader, to the chance of future determination. Indeed,—nor was it unnatural,—the obedient as well as diforderly part of the crew, looked with fome degree of impatience to a period when they fflould change the defart fflores of Nootka, and the nau- feating cuftoms of its inhabitants, for the genial climate, the luxurious abundance, and the gratifying pleafures of the Sandwich Iflands. Nor was our departure from St. George's Sound lefs anxioufly defired by many of the crew, from the reflediou that cannibals inhabited its fhores,—and: that the fate which had befallen their countrymen at Queenhkhe, might,, from fome untoward caufe or other, happen to them. Indeed, as we have before obferved, the idea of being eaten by the Americans abfolutely haunted the imaginations and preyed upon the fpirits of many of our people.—We therefore thought proper to renew our promifes of going, to the Sandwich Iflands, and the eyes of every one fparkled at the though t.- The diminution of our fflip's company, from the prefs of employment on fhore, and feparation of the mutinous feamen, prevented us : from leaving King George's Sound, to make another voyage to Port Cox, as we had intended. The fails were therefore unbent, the running- rigging unreeTed, and we prepared to give the carpenters every affiftance V O YAG E S TO THE ance in our power towards finiffling the veffel on the flocks. For this' purpofe, additional faw-pits were dug, and men fent to be employed in them ; new fupplies of timber were alfo brought from the woods, and an additional party was fpared from the fflip to affift in making cordage, and. the other occupations of our little dock-yard, At the fame time, the neeeflary ftores were landed for the ufe of the houfe; and as the fmiths had exhaufted themfelves of iron, their workfhop was replenifhed with a confiderable quantity of that effential article. Though at our departure from China we poffeffed plenty of ftores of every kind, their confumption had been fo great in the various fervices which demanded them, that we were, at length, under the ne- ceffity of referring to the produce of the country, and the exertions of our own ingenuity, to fupply their decreafing or exhaufted ftate. All our fea-coal being expended, we made charcoal with great facility, which the fmiths preferred to the other. The turpentine, which we got from trees in great abundance, was found to be of great fervice in paying the planks, to keep them from rending ; and, when mixed with oil, of which we could procure any quantity, it proved a very ufeful fuccedaneum for tar.—The red ochre which the natives employed to paint their faces, we purchafed from them:—In fhort, there were very few, if any articles, to be procured at Nootka, which we did not contrive to turn to very good account, and which we purpofely purchafed, to preferve the communication of good offices between us and the people, and to keep alive their adivity to ferve us. Neceflky, that mother of invention, taught us, In this remote corner of the globe, to look for aid to thofe fources on which we did not deign to call an eye, while we poffeffed a {lore of fuch materials as flow from the fuperior knowledge of cultivated fociety : while perfe- verance, that all-fubduing principle of human adion, produced for us, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. on the unfrequented fflores of America, fomewhat of the conveniencies, and a fuccefsful imitation of thofe arts which may be confidered as the natural growth of Europe. iTi ,s The mutinous feamen immediately built themfelves a large hut, in which they refided, beneath whofe leafy roof they had full leifure to contemplate on their paft villainy ; and, as their different charaders might operate, to curfe the ill-fortune that befel, or lament the wicked fpirit that milled them. They, indeed, fuffered feverely for their difo- bedient condud, and feemed to eaft a wifflful eye to the floating habitation from which they were baniffled ; for all communication was now fhut up between them and the houfe, as well as the fflip ;—but we well knew that a very little portion of induftry would be fufficient to fupply them with fifh ; and to enable them to gain a fupport from the fea, we purchafed a canoe, and fent it to them, as the laft favour or attention they were to exped from us. On the day after the mutiny had appeared, Maquilla and Callicum came on board, to prove, their friendfhip, by offering fuch fervices as the peculiar exigency of our fituation might require. Till this circumftance led us to explain the real condition of our feamen, the chiefs had confidered them in the light of flaves ; and had already complimented us, with fome mixture of furprife, on the extraordinary mildnefs of our condud towards the crime of rebellion in a people of their fuppofed condition. Nay Maquilla, from an apparent horror of the offence, and .a forward zeal for our fecurity, had taken fome of the officers afide, and ferioufly asked permiffion to colled fome of his people, and put the mutineers to inftant death. The requeft, as may be fuppofed, was not only refufed, but treated with the ftrongeft marks of difpleafure; and fo well difpofed was Maquilla to put his projed in execution, that we were. B b obliged - V O YAG E S TO THE obliged to accompany our refufal with repeated figns of abhorrence, h> order to prevent it. Callicum, however, aded in the bufinefs with more prudence and underftanding:—He wiffled to affift in punifhing the offenders by a mode that he knew could not be difagreeable, and would be fufficiently mortifying to them. When, therefore, he- underflood that thefe unhappy people were baniffled from the fflip, he requefled our per- miffion to receive them into his houfe ; and as we were well affured that the beft hofpitalky even of a Nootkan chief, would be a very fevere punifflmenf to a Britifh failor,—we readily confented to his propofition, on his afluring us, at the fame time, that his new guefts fflould be- fecure from any perfonal injury whatever. This bufinefs being arranged, we left the difcarded people to their new- guardians, and turned our thoughts to matters of more immediate importance. On the following day, to our great furprife, and as we . are ready to acknowledge, to our no little fatisfadion, we faw our fturdy and refolute mutineers employed in fetching water, and other menial fervices, in the execution of which, flaves alone are employed at Nootka- Nor were they fuffered to quit the houfe of Callicum on any occafion whatever, without being.attended by natives of the loweft condition, to whofe care and command they, were entrufted. This compulfory labour muft have been a very mortifying circumftance to them ; as, rather than employ the canoe, we had given them.to get fifh for themfelves, ' they had been fo lazy as to part with fome of their cloathing to pur- chafe that article from the natives. The chiefs, however, foon took care to fecure their cloaths to themfelves ; and, without being guilty of injuftice to our friends, we are obliged to attribute their feveral propofals concerning the offenders, though we did not at firft fufped their motives, to the defire of getting poffeffion of the feveral garments that covered them. That objed was eafily obtained; and when thefe unhappy men i had - NC«ITH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, I?5 had given up their all, they were forced to go to fea, to affift in pro- 1788. curing fifh,—not for themfelves, but for the families of their new JuLr- mailers. t-'.'>vf-jt We continued our various operations with the moft indefatigable in- wJdnefdlyd duftry and attention, and nothing material happened till the 6th of Auguft ; when, ahput noon, a fail was feen in the offing, which we knew to be the Princefs Royal. She appeared, at firft, as if {landing in for the Sound, but the weather becoming foon after thick and hazy, we loft fight of her On the arrival of this veffel on the coaft, we determined immediately to prepare for fea, as the prefence of this fflip would be an additional fecurity to our party ; and, notwithftanding the diminiffled ftate of our crew, we were now refolved to venture to Port Cox, to poffefs ourfelves of the furs which, we had every reafon to believe, muft have been colleded for us by Wicananiffl : a plan which would have been already executed, if we had not been impeded by the mutinous condud of our crew. On the 7th, the Princefs Royal again appeared in the offing, and Thurfday? was again obfcured from our view, by the return of thick, mifty weather. On the 8th, we were ready for fea,—and as we faw nothing of the Fridays Princefs Royal, we became very.apprehenfive that fhe might reach the fflores of Wicananiffl before us, and be able to tempt that chief, by various articles of novelty on board her, to intrude upon the treaty he had made with us. We, therefore, did not .delay a moment to fail from the Sound, with a gentle breeze of wind from the Weftward, and proceeded to Port Cox. £3§&jj< B b 2 Previous 1 VOYAGES TO THE Previous to our departure, we confirmed our friendfhip with Maquilla and Callicum, \with the ufual interchange of prefents. Thefe chiefs had been for fome time preparing for an hoftile expedition againft an enemy at a confiderable diftance to the Northward, and were now on the point of fetting forward. Some of the nations in the vicinity of the Northern Archipelago, had, it feems, invaded a village about twenty leagues to the Northward of King George's Sound, under the jurifdidion, and which had been left to the particular government of his grandmother. At this place the enemy had done confiderable mifchief,—murdering fome of the people, and.carrying others into captivity. On the arrival of a meffenger at Nootka with the news of thefe hoftilities, the inhabitants became inftantly inflamed with a moft adive impatience for revenge; and nothing was thought of amongft them, but the means of gratifying it. We. embraced this opprotunlty of binding the chiefs, if poffible, unalterably to us, by furnifhing them with fome fire-arms and ammunition, which would give them a very decided advantage over their enemies. Indeed we felt it to be our intereft that they fflould not be difturbed and interrupted by diftant wars; and that, if ne- ceffity fflould compel them to battle, that they fflould return victorious. This unexpeded acquifition of force animated them with new vigour; for they had already confeffed that they were going to attack an enemy who was more powerful, numerous and favage than themfelves. We attempted to inftill into their minds the humanity of war,— nd they had adually promifed to" puniffl the enemies they fflould take NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. take in battle with captivity, and not, as had been their general practice, with death. But it could not be fuppofed that the dodrines of our humane policy would be remembered by a favage nation burning .with revenge, in the moment of battle; and we are ferry to add, that this expedition ended in a moft fflocking feene of blood and maffacre. 1788. The power that Maquilla carried with him on this occafion, was Of a formidable nature. His war canoes contained each thirty young, athletic men, and there were twenty of thefe veffels, which had been drawn from the different villages under the fubjedion of Maquilla.— Comekela had the command of two boats:—They moved off from the fflore in folemn order, finging their fong of war. The chiefs were cloathed in fea-otter fkins; and the whole army had their faces and bodies painted with red ochre, and fprinkled with a fflining fand, which, particularly when the fun fflone on them, produced a fierce and terrible appearance. While the women encouraged the warriors,^ in the patriotic language of the Spartan dames,—to return vidorious, or to return no more. The battles, or rather the attacks of thefe favage tribes, are we believe inconceivably furious, and attended with the moft fflocking adions of barbarous ferocity. They do not carry on hoftilities by regular cenflids; but their revenge is gratified, their fanguinary appetites quenched, or their laurels obtained by the operations of fudden enterprize and adive ftratagem. The iriftrudions we left with our party on fflore were fuch as the* circumftances of the cafe required. They were requefted to maintain, and if poffible to augment their former vigilance ;■ particularly if any r {hangers- VOYAGES TO THE ftrangers fflould arrive in the Sound. And if it fflould happen that our friends were vanquiffled, and purfued to Nootka, that they fflould take a decided and active part in their fupport. .They were alfo de- fired not to let their humanity operate to the renewal of any communication with the baniffled feamen,—but to leave them to the lamented hardfhips of their condition, and the painful ftruggles of their repentance. "H NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. CHAP. XIX. Set fail for Port Cox,—Meet the-Princefs Royal—Reciprocal good Offices.— Anchor in Port Cox.—Princefs Royal anchors in Port Hanna.—Wicananifh removedto Clioquatt.—Long-boat fent there at two different Times, with • Prefents, &c.—Defcription of Clioquatt.—Occupations of the Natives. Brifik Trade with them.—The Long-boat fent a third Time to Wicananifh, on taking leave.—Meffage from that Chief, who afterwards arrives on board.—His Son propofes to embark with us, which we decline.—Put to Sea, and Anchor again in King George's Sound.—The Arrival of the Iphigenia.—Tianna's affectionate Behaviour, &c.—Arrival of Maquilla and Callicum, and an Account of their Expedition.—Tianna's Abhorrence of American Manners.—People of America, Cannibals.—The Inhabitants of the Sandwich Iflands refcued from that Afperfton. WE had but juft cleared the mouth of the Sound, when a thick fog . arofe, which obliged us to heave to.—In the evening, however,. it cleared away, when we faw the Princefs Royal within two or three miles of us, to the windward; and, on perceiving us, ffle fired a gun to leeward and hoifted her enfign. We returned.the fignal, and ffle immediately bore up and fpoke to us. I inftantly ordered out the boat, and went on board the Princefs Royal. I had no perfonal knowledge of Captain Duncan, who commanded m VOYAGES TO THE manded her;—but I had received full information in China of the objed and extent of her voyage ; and I now felt the moft anxious defire to offer any fervice to him and his little crew which he might want, or it might be in my power to afford.—Far from feeling the moft diftant im- pulfe of any^ miferable confideration, arifing from a competition of in- terefls, I profefs myfelf to have been animated by no other defires but thofe which arofe from my duty, as a man and an Englifflman. The Princefs Royal was not quite fifty tons burthen, and manned by fifteen men ; and when it is known that ffle had doubled Cape Horn, and navigated the great Northern and Southern Pacific Oceans, fome idea may be formed of the dif- treffes her people muft have fuffered, as well as of the ability and indefatigable fpirit of the commander. Indeed there is every reafon to believe that this little veffel accompliflied more for the benefit of her owners, than any fflip that ever failed to the North Weftern Coaft of America. Captain Duncan received me, with the whole of his crew, upon deck,—whom I could not but regard, as he conduded me to his cabin, with an eye of applaufive aflonifflment. The firft queftion which Captain Duncan afked me was, concerning the fate of the fflip Nootka, about which he exprefled an extreme anxiety. He had heard of the various misfortunes that had befell her, and was expreffing his doubts as to the poffibilky of her reaching China,—when I at once calmed his friendly apprehenfions, by affuring him I myfelf commanded the Nootka in that diftrefsful voyage which had excited his compaffion ; and that he beheld me engaged, at this moment, in an amicable conteft with him for the favours of fortune. His aflonifflment almoft fuperfeded his belief on the occafion; and, knowing what I had fuffered in my former voyage, he could fcarce conceive it to be within the reach of poffibilky, that I fhould be already re-embarked in an adventure on the American Coaft. • The NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. The Princefs Royal had been out near twenty months from England, and was In want of many articles, without which it is aftonifhing ffle could have continued her voyage.—Though haraffed with fatiguing duty, and in a climate and feafon where the feverky of the weather required the aid of invigorating cordials, their flock of liquors had long been exhaufted. We were extremely happy in being able to fupply them with a fmall quantity ; when Captain Duncan, in return, made us an unre- ferved offer of any thing his little veffel afforded *. Deftined as we were to be employed on a remote and unfrequented coaft, and liable to all the hardfhips and inclemencies of fuch a fituation, we felt an equal fympathy for our common allotment, and a mutual inclination to relieve, as far our power extended, the mutual inconve- niencies of it. We now feparated, when the Princefs Royal purfued her courfe to the South South Eaft, and we continued along fflore.—She had nearly brought her voyage to a conclufion, and was proceeding to the Sandwich Iflands, to take in refrefflments, in order to return to China with her valuable cargoe of furs. About nine o'clock in the evening the wind veered to the Eaft by South, which was immediately againft us, and obliged us to tack and ftand to fea. * On enquiring of Captain Duncan concerning his diftreffed condition, he told me that he had met Captain Dixon, in the Queen Charlotte ; and though that fhip was on her return to China, and abundantly flocked, with every thing ; and even though Ihe belonged to the fame owners with the Princefs Royal, the provident commander thought it much better to carry all his ftores back to China, than to fpare any of them to the latter veffel, though they would have been fo great an alleviation to the hardfhips of her voyage. Cc It VOYAGES- TO THE. It was the morning of the ioth before we got down a-breafl of Port Cox, when we found the Princefs Royal had a few hours before arrived in a fmall bar harbour, where our friend Hanna, the chief, refided.— Captain Duncan fent his boat off to us, as we paffed, to know if he fflould pilot us into the harbour; but as our intention was to enter Port Cox, we contented ourfelves with thanking him for his kind attentions. His boat, however, accompanied us till we anchored in the inner port, about five o'clock in the evening, when ffle quitted us to return to her fflip ; paffing through the channels between the iflands and the main, the diftance being about fifteen miles. The late Eafterly winds had obliged the Princefs Royal to fflelter her- felf here, as well as to procure fome wood and water, previous to her quitting the American coaft. On our arrival in Port Cox, we found that ^Wicananiffl had already re-"" moved to his winter quarters, which were up the harbour, and at the diftance of between thirty and forty miles from the fflip. On the nth, the long-boat was difpatched- to the chief, with prefents ; and in the evening fhe returned, having met him at a fmall fum- mer village, which was fituated'about twenty miles from the fhip. He received the party with every mark of the moft diftinguiffling regard ; and,. in return for our prefent, fent on board forty otter fkins, of the moft valuable fpecies ; and was pleafed to make known his further wiffl, that the boat might be hereafter fent to his winter's refidence, whither he was- then going. On the 12th, though the weather was but indifferent, the long-boat- was neverthelefs difpatched to Wicananiffl with a variety of articles for trade, 1 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 2, trade, and fome flattering prefents, amongft which the copper tea-kettle 1788. which had already been mentioned to him, was not forgotten, and whofe UG"S1 arrival was eagerly expeded by the whole family of the chief. The long-boat did not return till the 14th, when the officer gave us ThHrf<ky the following account of his little voyage. On the morning of the 13th he arrived at Clioquatt, the winter refi- dence of Wicananiffl, which confifted, like the other towns, of fuch houfes as we have already defcribed, but more commodioufly conftruded, poflef- fing a greater fflare of their rude magnificence than any which we had yet feen.—Ir. was very large and populous ; and the dwelling of the chief much more capacious than that which he occupied in the village near the fea, when we firft vifited his territories. The inhabitants were, at this time, bufily employed in packing up fifh in mats,—fecuring the rofcsof them in bladders,—cutting whales into flices, and melting down blubber into oil,, which they poured into feal-fkins.—All this mighty preparation was the provident fpirit of catering for the winter:—and the incredible quantities of thefe various provifions which our people faw colleded, pro- mifed, at leaft, that famine would not be an evil of the approaching feafon. On thefe fflores the winter is the happy portion of the year which is appropriated to luxury and eafe ; nor are they then ever aroufed into adion, but to take fome of thofe enormous whales, which, at that feafon, frequeflt their feas, in order to feaft any of the neighbouring chiefs who may come to vifit them, Wicananiffl received all our prefents with expreffions of extreme fatisfadion ; but the kettle was honoured wMifefts -pet&liar atteriti'iJnV' 'affd borne away by him with an air of triumph, to be placed among his C c 2 treafures; VOYAGES TO THE treafures; and with repeated declarations, that no confideration whatever fflould again induce him to yield up fuch a.valuable depofit. Twelve brafs- hilted fwords compofed a part of our offering, which were favoured with the moft grateful admiration ; and a great variety of articles had been pur- pofely manufadured to fuk the fancy of the women, who vied with each other in their cordial attentions to our people. A more brifk trade-was then carried on with the inhabitants than we had hitherto experienced ^ a confiderable quantity of furs were obtained, and the boat returned well' freighted with the produce of the voyage, and her people perfedly fatisfied with their reception from Wicananiffl. Though we had every reafon to be contented with our commercial fuccefs, we determined to fend another embafly, which, if it did not produce any immediate advantage, might leave thofe impreffions that would eftablifh a rooted intereft in our favour with the chief and his people. The- long-boat was therefore, on the 18th, difpatched to the town, to take our farewell meffage, and, which was of more confequence, our fare- wel prefent to Wicananiffl. Indeed we propofed, on this occafion, to prove the difintereftednefs of our friendfhip, by feleding fuch a variety of" articles as would fuk even the moft varying fancy of this fickle people. To thefe were alfo added feveral coats, profufely trimmed with buttons, and the head of a large copper ftill. This fumptuous prefent was ordered to be made on our part with a ftrid prohibition not to receive any thir in return. The boat returned on the evening of the 19th, having pundually executed our orders; and having brought a meffage from the chief, that he propofed to vifit the fflip the next day; and therefore defired us to defer our departure for the purpofe of receiving him. On Tl NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 205 On the 20th, we were accordingly vifited by Wicananiffl, attended by 1788. his brother, his two fens, three of his wives, and a great number of jSpfr*" ' o - Weonefdayso people from the town, who attended their chief, in order to gain another opportunity of trading with us; and no fmall quantity of furs were, at this time, procured from them. The chief, however, prefented us with feveral fea otter fkins of the moft valuable kind; and, though there was every reafon to believe that he intended to rival us in generofity, by refufing to receive any return, he could not bring himfelf to fend back a couple of mufkets and a quantity of ammunition ; which were too tempting to be refifted by the delicacy of his fentiments, and might prove too ufeful in defending himfelf againft his powerful neighbour, Tatootche, not to be received with the moft grateful fatisfadion. He enquired, in . the moft affedionate manner, how many moons would pafs away before our return ; and. folicked us, in the ftrongeft manner, to ■prefer his port and harbour to every others One of his fens, a young man of about-nineteen years of age, expref- fed a very earneft defire to depart with us ; but this offer we thought it prudent to decline, from a recolledion of the anxiety we had fuffered on a former occafion, by receiving even the amiable Tianna to our care and pro- tedion. This youth was the moft pleafing, in his figure and appearance, of any perfon we had feen on the American coaft. He not only appeared to be very quick and fagacious, but to poffefs an amiable.and docile difpofition ; and we do not doubt, had he vifited China, but that he would have returned with far different qualifications than Comekela, to improve and adorn his country. Wicananiffl and his people left us with every token of fincere regret, and repeated entreaties that we would foon return. Having bid thefe generous people farewell, we put to fea in the evening of the 20th ; and, without VOYAGES TO THE without any material occurrence, anchored fafe on the 2.4th, in our old fituation in King George's Sound. Our abfence had now occupied fo fhort a fpace of time, that we felt nothing of that anxiety for our party at Nootka which we had experienced on our former feparation. We Found them all well, and the veffel confiderably advanced. The carpenters had nearly planked her up, and her fituation was fuch, that we propofed launching her on the 20th of September. The exiled crew remained in the fame unpleafant fituation In which we had left them. Grief, pain and remorfe had, we believe, been thek conftant companions, fince they were baniffled from the fflip;—at leaft their appearance was fuch as to juftify us in farming fuch an opinion : and when the Felice entered Friendly Cove, we obferved, as they viewed her from the beach, that the fight of her feemed, in fome degree, to enliven their dejeded countenances. The time now approached when we had every reafon to exped the Iphigenia, according to the inftrudions given her at our feparation.— We began to feel that anxiety for her fate, which we, who knew the dangers ffle had to encounter, muft naturally feel, when day after day paffed on, and we faw no appearance of her. Our anxious eyes were continually wandering over the fea that waffled the American Coaft, in fearch of thofe fails which might mark the approach of our frien Is ; but for fome time nothing was feen but a vaft expanfe of water, unenlivened by any objed but, now and then, the folkary canoe of a Nootka fifflerman. Thus alternately go"erned by hope and fear, by the expectation of foon feeing our companions again, and the apprehenfions of never feeing them more, we paffed the bufy part of our time; and, when bur occupations were over, we ufed, in the evening, to walk on the m&tfe, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 20y at the back of Friendly Cove, and interchange thofe refledions which I788. had occurred in filence, during the labours and employment of the day. August. In our evening walk on the 2~6th, while we were communicating our thoughts, and repeating our vaticinations concerning the Iphigenia, to our infinite joy a fail was feen in the offing^ which we were willing to conclude could be no other than that which we expeded ; and, indeed fo.it proved ; for, on the 27th in the morning, ffle anchored in Friendly wednefday^ Cove. Such a meeting as this, obtained, as it deferved, ageneralcelebration ; and orders were accordingly given that all work of every kind fflould be fuf- pended ; that it might be a day of reft to the body, as well as of joy to the mind.—In fhort our little jubilee, on a diftant and dreary coaft, was paffed with a degree o£ fatisfadion and delight which the fplendid feftivities of poliffled nations have not always known. The relation of dangers that were paft,—the pleafing renewals-of private friendfhip,—the fuccefs which had attended our hazardous expeditions,-4 and the fair profped that we fflould return home toenjoy tie fruits of them, formed the fubjeds of our eager difeourfe ; while the happy hours were enlivened by convivial mirth and. fecial pleafure. . It was, as may be well conceived, a great addition to our happihefs,, that the crew of the Iphigenia were entirely recovered from the diforder which threatened them, at the time of our feparation, and now joined us in full health and vigour. The joy of Tianna at the fight of thofe friends whom he had left with fuch poignant marks of regret, . was of a nature to delight all who beheld the warm effufions of his grateful mind, but cannot be conveyed to thofe who did not behold it by any language of mine. Nor were, we infenfible to the pleafure of feeing him 1 reftored V O YAGE S TO THE reftored to us, fo entirely recovered from a diforder which had filled us with apprehenfion that we-fflould never fee him again. Indeed, from the general change in his looks, and ftill wearing his fur cap and other warm cloathing, with which he had clad himfelf, during the cold feafonj while the Iphigenia was in Prince William's Sound and Cook's River,—we did not immediately recognize the chief; but the violence of his joy foon difcovered-him to us ; and though it might be more expref- five, it was not more fincere than our own. Indeed, fuch had ever been the conciliating power of his manners, that there Was not a feaman in either fhip, that did not love Tianna as himfel£ "We had fuppofed that his fatisfadion on feeing us once again, was compleat; but we found it ftill capable of increafe ;—for when he was informed that we propofed, in a very fflort time, to proceed to the Sand- ,j wicli Iflands,—his expreffions of delight knew no bounds; —they were<| wild, fantaftic and exceffive; and it was fome time before they funk into that ftate of moderation which qualified him to receive any freffl impreffions of pleafure. " The new veffel was referved for that purpofe; and when it was pointed out, and he was made acquainted with its objed, he regarded it with fuch a firm and fixed attention, as if his eyes would have darted from their fockets to the veffel: and till ffle was launched, he continued the conftant companion of the carpenters, examining their operations and obferving their progrefs. We encouraged this difpofitipil; and it is fcarcely to be credited how much of a carpenter's profeffion he learned during the fflort time we remained at King George's Sound. On the 27th, while we were vifiting the village, Maquilla and Callicum returned from their war expedition; and, on entering the Sound, the little army gave the fflout of vidory. They certainly had obtained fome advantages, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, vantages, as they brought home in their canoes feveral balkets, which they would not open in our prefence, and were fufpeded by us, as it afterwards proved, by the confeffion of Callicum, to contain the heads of enemies whom they had {lain in battle, to the amount of thirty ; but this vidory was not purchafed without fome lofs on the fide of the powers of Nootka. The chiefs now returned the arms they'had received from us, but the ammunition was entirely expended :—we perceived, indeed, that the mufkets had been fired feveral times ; and Callicum affured us that they had taken ample vengeance for the hoftilities exercifed againft them; and had, befides, made a great booty of fea-otter fkins, in which they were all arrayed. The Sandwich Ifland Chief did not, as we firft expeded, difcover any fur- prife at the fight of Maquilla and his army; but the frequent communication of the Iphigenia with the natives along the coaft, from Cook's River ' to King George's Sound, had rendered them and their manners no longer an objed of novelty, as they had never been an objed of confideration in the eyes of Tianna. Indeed, when he, with his fine coloffal figure, flood by Maquilla, who was rather of a low ftature, the difference was fuch, as not only to ftrike every beholder, but even to affed themfelves with the different feufations of an exulting or a wounded pride, which would prevent any very cordial affediori from taking place between them. Tianna and Comekela were old acquaintance, but by no means intimate friends, as the former held the latter in a very low degree of eftimation ; and, accordingly, we did not obferve any very cordial appearance of joy at their prefent meeting. As Comekela had been at the Sandwich Iflands, on his firft leaving America, the fflip having flopped there for refrefh- ments, he was qualified to give Maquilla an account not only of Tianna, Dd but V O YAG E S TO THE but the country from whence he came, and be did it probably to ths difadvantage of both. At all events/ Tianna held the cuftoms of Nootka in deteflation; and could not bear the idea of their cannibal: appetites, without expreffing the moft violent fenfations of difguft and abhorrence. Indeed, there was no tomparifon to be made between the inhabitants and cuftoms of the Sandwich Iflands and thofe among whom we now refided, or of any part of the continent of America.—The former are their fuperiors in every thing that regards what we fflould call the comforts of life, and their approach to civilization. They attend to a circumftance which particularly diftinguiffles poHffled from favage life, and- that is cleanlinefs :—they are not only clean to an extreme in their food, but alfo in their perfons and houfes the fame happy difpofition prevails:—while the North Weftern Americans are nafty to a degree that rivals the moft filthy brutes, and, of courfe, prohibits any defcription? from us. Indeed, the very difgufting nature of their food is not di~ miniffled by the manner in which it is eaten, or rather devoured Befides, their being cannibals, if no other circumftance of inferiority could, be produced, throws them to a vaft diftance from the-rank which re held iu the feale of human being by the countrymen of Tianna : nor fflould we pafs over in this place the frequent and folemn declarations of this chief, that the natives of the Sandwich Iflands poffefs the moft abhorrent fentiments of cannibal nature ; and though they may Immolate human, beings on the altars of their deity, they have not the leaft idea of' making fuch a- facrifice to their own appetites. Indeed,, we truft it will: not prove a vain hope, that thefe amiable people may foon be taught to abandon even their religious inhumanity ; and that near half a million of human beings, inhabiting the Sandwich Iflands, may one day be ranked: among the civilized fubjeds. of the Britifh empire. CHAP. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. CHAP. XX. The Crew of the Iphigenia employed on the new Veffel—Arrangements made relative to the Ships.—Inhabitants prepare to retire to their Winter Quarters. —Difpofttions relative to the exiled Part of the Crew, who are again received on board, on certain Conditions.—Maquilla and Callicum pay us a Vifit previous to their Departure.—Prefents made to thefe Chiefs.—The Sagacity of the latter.—Ungrateful Behaviour of Comekela.—A Sail feen in the Offing.— Boat fent out to ajfifi her.—The Wafhington enters the Sound.—Some Account of her Voyage, &c.—The new Veffel named and launched.—A Crew appointed to her.—Orders delivered to the Iphigenia.—Tianna embarks on - board her.—Efcape of the degraded Boatfwain;—Affifted by the Mafter of the Wafhington.—%uit King George's Sound, and proceed to the Sandwich glands, THB arrival of the Iphigenia not only infufed into our minds new life and fpirits, but enabled us to proceed in our different operations with redoubled vigour. We now formed a very ftrong party; and, therefore, had no doubt of being able to launch the veffel by the time we propofed. The voyage of the Iphigenia had alfo afforded us additional and very promifing expedations of rendering the North Weft Coaft of America a very important commercial ftation. She had very completely coafted the American fflore, from Cook's River to King George's Sound, and D d 2 had VOYAGES T O T H B had brought us the moft indubitable proofs of the exiftence of the Great Northern Archipelago :—But this new, important, and very in- terefting objed has already, we truft, fatisfied the attention of our readers, in one of the introdudory Memoirs prefixed to this volume. The artificers of the Iphigenia were immediately employed to affift thofe of the Felice in forwarding the completion of the veffel. Indeed, they rather felt a jealoufy on feeing the works we had formed ; which aded as a flimulative to take an adive fflare in the honour of them : fo that the bufinefs of our temporary dock promifed a very fpeedy completion. Nor were the feamen idle : fome were added to the rope-makers, and others ftrengthened the party appointed to cut down {pars for prefent ufe ; and, in particular, to procure a new fore-maft for the Felice, who, as we have related, had fprung her's, very foon after our departure from Samboingan. The feafon for retiring from the American coaft was now approaching; and we had fufficient bufinefs on our hands to fill up the interval. Not only the new veffel was to be launched, manned, and equipped for a voyage of near fifteen hundred leagues, but the two fhips were alfo to be prepared for fea; and when our fituation, as well as the nature of our refources are confidered, we muft be allowed to have had no fmall difficulties to encounter; and'that, from having conquered them, we have fome claim, at leaft, to the praife that is due to unremitting induftry^ and refolute perfeverance. A new fuk of fails was foon completed for the veffel on the flocks,, which, as ffle was to be rigged as a fchooner, was the more readily ac- compliffled j NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. c^mpliffled ; but, independent of her ftorm-fails, this was all we could 17 do for her in that branch of rigging. Au' Being, however, thus far, and thus happily advanced in our feveral preparations for our approaching, voyages, it became a matter of immediate confideration to form the neeeflary arrangements of the two fhips, not only for the prefent feafon, but alfo for the enfuing year. A very valuable cargo of furs had been colleded, which it was our intereft to. tranfport to market with all poffible difpatch;—it was, therefore, determined that the Felice, as foon as the new veffel was launched, fhould diredly proceed to China; and that the Iphigenia, with the fchooner, fflould remain to profecute the general objeds of our commerce. This arrangement being fettled, every exertion was immediately made to prepare the Felice for fea. For this purpofe the fail-makers began upon her rigging, and the caulkers applied themfelves to her upper-works, which, as well as her bends, were very leaky. As it was more than probable that we fflould enter the China feas at a very tempeftuous feafon of the year, we were very attentive to the making every neeeflary provifion for that, as we did for every other poffible exigency of the voyage. In fhort, we followed up this bufinefs with fuch unremitting and adive induftry, that by the 4th of September the fhip was ready for fea, having sEpT got her head fore-maft in, and being .completely ftored with wood and water. The natives now began to make preparations for retiring from their prefent fituation into the more interior part of the Sound ;. and we daily faw fome of their embarkations, which we have defcribed in a former chapter. On the 7th, Maquilla and Callicum paid us a vifit, to notify Sm in form, that, in a few days, they, with all their people, fflould remove 5 to 213 "It VOYAGES TO THE to the winter-refidence, which was near 30 miles from the fhip, and as many from the fea. On receivtng'flns information, we thought it incumbent onus to form fome difpofitions concerning the exiled crew. Their fufferiugs applied themfelves very forcibly to our pity ; and the humility of their folicka- fions, wkh their imploring promifes of future fidelity and good behaviour, were not without their efted. But it required all the refledion we could beftow on the fubjed, to form a right judgment how to ad in a crifis where individual feeling, and profeffional duty had much to fettle, before a final decifion could be made. The leaving thefe unhappy people behind, might have been confidered as cruelty to them; and the receiving men on board, the return of whofe daring and mutinous fpirit would, to fay no worfe, impede, if not wholly interrupt the voyage,— might turn out cruelty to ourfelves. They had, it is true, fuffered very feverely for their paft mifeondud; and when they were fummoned to hear our final determination concerning them, their pale countenances and dejeded looks, accompanied by the moft abjed declarations of repentance, difarmed us, at once, of all our refentment; and they were received into the fflip on con- fenting to forfeit the wages already due to them for nine months fervice, and that their future pay fflould be proportioned to their future good behaviour. To thefe conditions they joy fully fubmkted, and once , more joined their comrades, after an interval, in which they had known nothing but mortification and diftrefs. The power which was exercifed in depriving thefe men of the wages due to them previous to thek villainous attempt to feize the fflip, was founded in ftrid juftice : for, without confidering the wickednefs of their defign, and the fatal confe- quences which would have attended the completion of it, their having I prevented NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 2 prevented the fflip from putting to fea, for the benefit of their employers, 1788. by which interruption a confiderable lofs was fuftained, was alone fuffi- Sbftembj cient to juftify an ad, which would make them fflarers in the lofs that they had occafioned. On our arrival at China, however, the whole of the wages which they had forfeited, was bellowed upon them by the commiferating gene- rofity of the owners. We could not, after all, exercife too much precaution in again receiving thefe dangerous people amongft us. We indulged our difpofi- tions to lenity with an apprehenfive fatisfadion ; and, in order to leflen, the poffibilky of mifchlef, we diftributed them- among the two crews, which leffened, at leaft, the power of communication with each other. The boatfwain, whofe condud had been marked with previous difobe- dience, and who was the ringleader of the mutiny, was excepted from the general amnefty. It was thought to be neeeflary, at all events, to • make him an example ; more particularly as we now difcovered that he had added theft to his other offences. He was accordingly put under- ■ confinement in the houfe on fflore. Thus was this very difagreeable bufinefs finally fettled: but had'we been lefs fortunate in the firft difcovery of the mutiny;—in fflort, had we been at fuch a diftance from the fhip, as not to have heard the firft: alarm on the occafion, the confequences would certainly have been de- ftrudive of the voyage, and might have proved fatal to ourfelves. Maquilla and Callicum now came to take their farewell of us, as they were going to depart for the place of their winter refidence,.and delivered themfelves on: the occafion. in. the warmeft language,, and with the moft fc VOYAGES TO THE moft expreffive looks of friendfhip. They knew that we were fflortly to quit their coaft, and exprefled very affedionate wiffles for our return. Maquilla entreated us again and again, whenever we propofed to get the little mamatlee or fflip into the water, to fend to him, and he would come down with all his people to give us the neeeflary affiftance. They had, indeed, been conftantly anticipating the difficulty that would attend us, as they exprefled themfelves, in puffling the veffel into the water, whenever ffle fflould be compleated. Thefe chiefs had paid a very regular attention to the progrefs of her conftrudion, from the very beginning, to her prefent ftate of approaching completion ; but without difcovering any I thing like the intelligence which grew up, as it were, and daily unfolded itfelf in the mind of Tianna. Whatever opinion, therefore/we had formed of the capacity of thefe chiefs for the fentiments of friendfhip, we thought it prudent, with a view to our future i'nterefts, as prefents had firft obtained it, to fecure the continuance of it, if poffible, by the fame prevailing" influence.— We accordingly prefented Maquilla, with a mufket, a fmall quantity ' of ammunition, and a few blankets. Nor did Callicum leave us with-* J out receiving equal tokens of our regard. We made thefe chiefs fenfible in how many moons we fflould return to them ; and that we fflould then be accompanied by others of our countrymen, and build more houfes, and endeavour to introduce our manners and mode of living to the pradice of our Nootka friends.—This information feemed to delight them beyond meafure; and they not only promifed us great plenty of furs on our return, but Maquilla thought I proper, on the inftant, to do obedience to us as his lords and fovereigns. He took off his tiara of feathers, and placed it on my head ; he then dref- fed me in his robe of otter fkins; and, thus arrayed, he made me fit down NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, down on one of his chefts filled with human bones, and then placed himfelf on the ground. His example was followed by all the natives prefent, when they fung one of thofe plaintive fongs, which we have already mentioned as producing fuch a folemn and pleafing effed upon our minds.—Such were the forms by which he intended to acknowledge, in the prefence of his people, our fuperiority over him.—We now once more took our leave, and returned on board the fflip, clad in regal attire, and poffeffed of fovereign power.—We had, however, fearcely left the chief, when Callicum came running after us to particularife his commiflions, and repeat his adieu.—-There was fomething about this man fo amiable and affedionate, that I wiffled to remain with him to the laft; and I cannot help relating every trifling circumftance in this final interview .—He enumerated a long lift of articles, that he defired us to bring him when we fflould return ; all of which I took down in writing, to his entire fatisfadion. Shoes, {lockings, an hat, and other articles of our drefs, were moft particularly requefted by him ; and, wdien I returned him my affurance that his wiffles fflould be gratified in the moft ample manner, he immediately departed, after having taking me round the neck, and given me a moft affedionate embrace.—I felt it then, when I hoped to fee him again;—and I feel it now—when I too well know I fhall fee him no more. Poor Callicum had now, as at every former period, made known his wants in a particular manner to me; but I afterwards, found that the whole village had, more or lefs, charged the memories of our people, as well officers as feamen, with their various commiflions :-—nor did the ladies of Nootka forget to make their claim to our remembrance of them. And here I cannot but mention, with fome degree of pleafure, though mingled, I muft own, with a preponderating fenfation of pain, that, on our part, all their feveral commiflions were moft minutely executed. The Argo- E e naut VOYAGES TO THE gonaut contained them all; as alfo the feveral prefents to Maquilla, Callicum, Wicananiffl, and the other chiefs to the Southward of King George's Sound, known by us, as well as thofe to the Northward of it, , who had been difcovered by the Iphigenia. The whole of which treafure had been feleded and adapted with great care, and the moft anxious attention to their fancies, as well as their neceflities, when ffle was captured by the Spaniards. It might be confidered, perhaps, as tending to leffen the abhorrent idea which every Englifflman fflould feel, and of which I, above all others, fflould be fenfible, refpeding the audacious and cruel condud of the Spanifh officer, by mentioning the fubordinate difappointment I felt, when I refleded that Maquilla and Callicum did not enjoy their harmlefs pride in thofe dreffes which had been prepared for them; and that the coffers of Wicananiffl were not filled with thofe veflels which had been exprefsly, and at no little trouble, obtained to enrich them. I fhall therefore pafs over the curious cargo provided for our Nootka friends, of which we and they were robbed by the Spanifh commander; nor defcribe the quantity of caft-off cloaths, that we had colleded at China, and loaded with buttons to fuk their fancy; and of which the Spaniards pofleffed'- themfelves with fuch an avidity, as if they were in want of this wardrobe, which was deftined for the favages of Nootka, to cloath far greater barbarians- Comekela, of whom we never entertained a very favourable opinion, and of whofe deceitful condud we had ample proof, notwithftanding our kindnefs to him, while he was at China, during his voyage from thence,, and after his return to Nootka, confirmed us in our opinion of his ingratitude, by leaving the Sound, without {hewing us the leaft mark of attention or refped:—He therefore loft, as he deferved, the prefent which- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. was referved for him ; and we fuffered him to depart without any token of remembrance from'us. We continued our operations, without the intervention of any particular circumftance, till the 17th of September, when a fail was feen in the offing, which rather furprized us ; and we were not without our apprehenfions that it was the Princefs Royal, who had met with fome accident that obliged her to return. The long-boat was immediately fent to her affiftance, which, inftead of the Britifh veffel we expeded, con veyed into the S 'floop, named the Wafhington, from Bofton i New England, of about one hundred tons burthen. Mr. Grey, the mafter, informed us, that he had failed in company with his confort, the Columbia, a fflip of three hundred tons, in the month of Auguft, 1787, being equipped, under the patronage of Con- grefs, to examine the Coaft of America, and to open a fur-trade between New England and this part of the American Continent, in order to provide funds for their China fhips, to enable them to return home teas and China goods. Thefe veflels were feparated in an heavy gale of wind, in the latitude of 590 South, and had not feen each other fince the period of their feparation ;—but as King George's Sound was the place of rendezvous appointed for them, the Columbia, if ffle was fafe, was every day expeded to join her confort at Nootka. Mr. Grey informed us that he had put into an harbour on the Coaft of New Albion, where he got on fflore, and was in danger of being loft on the bar: he was alfo attacked by the natives, had one man killed and one of his officers wounded, and thought himfelf fortunate in having been able to make his efeape. This harbour could only admit veflels of a very fmall E e 2 fize, j0 VOYAGESTOTHE 17S8. fize, and muft lie fomewhere near the Cape, to which we had given the iftember. name 0f Cape Look-out. The mafter of the Wafhington was very flluch furprized at feeing a v'eflel on the flocks, as well as on finding any one here before him ; for they had little or no notion of any commercial expeditions whatever to this part of America. He appeared, however, to be very fanguine in the fuperior advantages which his countrymen from New England might reap from this track of trade; and was big with many mighty projeds, in which we underftood he was proteded by the American Congrefs. With thefe circumftances, however, as we had no immediate concern, we did not even intrude an opinion, but treated .Mr. Grey and his fflip's company with polkenefs and attention. aturdayio On the 20th, at noon, an event, to which we had fo long-looked with , anxious expedation, and had been the fruit of fo much care and labour, was ripe for accomplifhment.—The veffel was then waiting to quit the flocks; and to give all due honour to fuch an important fcene, we adopted, as far as was in our power, the ceremony of other dockyards.—As foon as the tide was at its proper height, the Englifh en- fign was difplayed on fhore at the houfe, and on board the new veffel which, at the proper moment, was named the North Weft America as being the firft bottom ever built and launched in this part of the globe. It was a moment of much expedation.—The circumftances of our fituation made us look to it with more than common hope.—-Maquilla, Callicum, and a large body of their people, who had received information of the launch, were come to behold it. The Chinefe carpenters did not very well conceive the laft operation of a bufinefs in which they themfelves had been fo much and fo materially concerned* Nor fhall we forget NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA-.- forget to mention the Chief of the Sandwich Iflands, whofe every power was abforbed in the bufinefs that approached, and who had determined *!l©De on board the veffel when ffle glided into the water. The prefence of the Americans ought alfo to be confidered, when we are defcribing the attendant ceremonies of this important crifis; which, from the labour that produced it,—the fcene that furrounded it,—the fpedators that beheld it, and the commercial advantages, as well as civilizing ideas, con- neded with it, will attach fome little confequence to ks proceeding, in the mind of the philofopher, as well as in the view of the politician. But our fufpenfe was not of long duration ;—on the firing of a gun, the veffel ftarted from the ways like a fhot.—Indeed ffle went off with fo 'much velocity, that ffle had nearly made her way out of the harbour; for the fad was, that not being very much accuftomed to this bufinefs, we had forgotten to place an anchor and cable on board, to bring her up, which is the ufual pradice on thefe occafions : the boats, however, foon towed her to her intended ftation ; and in a fflort time the North Weil America was anchored clofe to the Iphigeuia and the Felice. Tianna, who was on board the veffel at the time of her being launched, not only faw, but may be faid to have felt the operation, as if it had been the work of enchantment; and could only exprefs his aflonifflment, by capering about, clapping his hands, and exclaiming Myty, Myty ; a word the moft expreffive in the language of the Sandwich Iflands, to convey wonder, approbation, and delight. The Chinefe carpenters were alfo in an almoft equal " gree of aflonifflment, as they had never before been witneffes of fuch a fpedacle. Nor were the natives of the Sound, who were prefent at this ceremony, lefs Impreffed by a feries of operations, the fimpleft of which was far above their comprehenfions. In fflort,—this bufinefs did not fail to raife us ftill higher in their good opinion. V O YAG E S TO THE opinion, and to afford them better and more corred notions than they .hitherto poffeffed, of the fuperiority of civilized, over favage life. A commander, officers and crew, were immediately feleded from the Felice and Iphigenia, to navigate the North Weft America'; and each, of the fhips fent her proportion of ftores on fflore, to equip her for fea. And here, I truft, it will not be confidered as an impertinent digreffion, if I exprefs my gratitude to that example of profeffional rigor and perfe- verance, which in my early years were fet before me, on the oppofite fide of this continent, where ability and courage alleviated, in fomemeafure, the chagrin of unfuccefsful war. The campaigns in Canada owe their only honour to the naval warfare on the lakes of that country; and it was my good fortune, when a youth, to be enured in fuch a fchool, to the hardfhips and difficulties of naval life, and to learn there, that temper and perfeverance muft be added to profeffional knowledge, in order to furmount them.—I am ready to acknowledge that, for the little {kill I may poffefs, as a profeffional man, as well as the patience I have exercifed, and the perfeverance which I have exerted, in this or any other voyage, I am indebted to the rigid dlfcipline which neceffarily arofe from the continual adion, hazard and conflid of the fervice in which I was firft engaged.—Some little experience has convinced me that dangers and difficulties form the beft fchool of maritime education ; and he that. has been fo employed as to have feen every thing, and fo circumftanced as to defpife nothing, cannot fail of rendering ferviee to his country. On the 24th, the Felice being ready for fea, the orders, marked N°..V. in the Appendix, were given to Captain Douglas, to dired his future proceedings.—The North Weft America was added to his command, and TiannaJ NORTH WEST COAST 6F AMERICA. Tianna once more embarked on board the Iphigenia, as ffle was deftined to carry him to the Sandwich Iflands. This arrangement was preferred after fome deliberation; for I myfelf felt a ftrong inclination to reftore the amiable chief to his country; but as I could not remain more than a few days at the Sandwich Iflands, and as the Iphigenia was deftined to winter there, it was thought a more expedient meafure to fend him home in her ; as it would, in a particular manner attach him to her people, and, of courfe, promote their comfort and fecurity during the time, which would probably occupy feveral months, of thekftay there. Thefe reafons were fufficient for us, on account of the general intereft of the expedition, to return Tianna to the Iphigenia ;—but there were alfo other reafons for purfuing this meafure,. for his own fake. We had been informed by one of the veffels which returned to China from the Sandwich Iflands, fubfequent to us, that Tiahna's brother,. Taheo, fovereign of Atooi, was become fo fearful of the power he might acquire from us, as to meditate his deftrudion ; and that, in all probability, fome fecret attempt would be made on his arrival to cut him off. It was neeeflary, therefore, for the prefervation of Tianna, that he fhould be taken back in that veffel, which, by her long ftay there, might- enfure his fafety, till the jealous fit of his tyrant brother was pafled away, and a perfed reconciliation had taken place between them. We now fent all, the ftores we could poflibly fpare on board the Iphigenia ; and, in return, received her cargo of furs. We alfo took on board a confiderable quantity of fine fpars, fit for top-mafts, for the Chinefe market, where they are very much wanted, and, of courfe,. pro- VOYAGES TO THE proportionably dear. Indeed the woods of this part of America are capable of fupplying, with thefe valuable materials, all the navies of Europe. In the evening the officers, &c. of the Iphigenia and the North Weft America came on board the Felice to bid us farewell. Tianna was not the laft to fflew us that mark of his regard ;—and indeed, to do juftice to his amiable difpofition and friendly nature, whenever kindnefs could be fflewn, or generality exprefled, he was among the firft.— Nor could he fay adieu to Neota, the name univerfally given me, both in America and the Sandwich Iflands, without a frame almoft convulfed, with agitation, and tears gufhing down his cheeks. — Nor could I, though proceeding to complete my voyage with the fairefl hopes of fuccefs, take my leave of that worthy man, and the companions of our toilfome enterprife, without emotions that required all my refolu- tion to fupprefs. Neither fflould I do juftice to the condud of thofe employed in this commercial expedition with me, if I did not mention the alacrity which was difplayed by the officers of every denomination ;—and, indeed, by all . the inferior people, to acommodate themfelves to our peculiar circum-. fiances. It was neeeflary to have feveral changes among the crews of both fhips, in order to give a proper complement of officers and men to the North Weft America, in which the general intereft of the expedition was alone confidered by all;—and I think it my duty to record on this grateful page, the fenfe I have of, and the advantages their employers received from, their manly and accommodating condud on the occafion. We NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 225 We now hove up the anchor, and, with a ftrong wind blowing 1788. from the North Weft, the Felice put to fea. — The crews of the EfTEMBER Iphigenia and the North Weft America gave us three cheers at our departure, which awakened every echo of Friendly Cove. We returned the fame animating adieu;—and, before it was dark, we had almoft loft fight of Nootka Sound. It may not be improper juft to mention, that the day after the arrival of the American veffel at Nootka Sound, the difcarded boatfwain broke from his confinement, and efcaped, with feveral articles he had ftolen, into the woods, with a view to obtain protedion from the Wafhington; in which, as we have fince been informed, he fucceeded. For the mafter of that veffel, with what propriety I fhall not pretend to obferve, not only fent him provifions to his hiding-place in the woods, but, immediately on the departure of our fhips, received him on board his veffel, in which he did duty before the maft. I 226 VOYAGES TO THE CHAP. XXL General Account of the Nations feen on the North Weftern Coaft of America.— The Four Nations of the Country of Nootka.'—Their Situation, Villages, and Population, &c.—Knowledge of the People to the Southward of ^ueenhithe, in a great Degree conjectural.—Wicananifh, however, repeats the Names of their Villages.—Some Account of the American Continent, from Cape Saint James to the Southward.—Climates.—Seafons.—Winds.—rStorms.—Harbours, &c.—Navigation, &c. — No confiderable-Rivers in the Diftridt of Nootka Sound. WE had now taken our leave of the Coaft of America; and, while the Felice may be fuppofed to be purfuing her voyage to the Sandwich Iflands, we fhall fill up the interval of her arrival there, with fuch an account of the country we have juft quitted, as we are qualified to make from our own experience, and fuch obfervations as fuggefted themfelves to us while we were acquiring it. The commercial adventurers to this part of America, who had been I led thither for the furs it produced, were not without that laudable and patriot curiofity which has animated others,- and indeed operated in fome. I of them to add new countries to the chart of the globe ;—but,' whatever zeal they might poffefs, it was not in their power to fpare an adequate portion NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. portion of their time, from their more important objeds of commercial enterprize. * It is true, that in purfuit of them we fell in with parts of the coaft that Captain Cook had not vifited, and communicated with people whom he had never feen;—but the great objed of our voyage continually checked any rifing impulfe to purfue the track of difcovery; and our particular duty and interefts forced us back to thofe parts of the coaft which were more immediately conneded. with the purpofes of mercantile adventure.—Hence it is that our account of this part of the American continent will be confined within narrow limits :—It will, however, we truft, poffefs the merit which accuracy can give it, and affift thofe who may hereafter be employed to • examine this remote portion of the globe. The parts of which we have any particular knowledge, extend from the latitude of 450 North to 6z° North. The longitude obtained from aftronomical obfervations, is from 2050 Eaft, to 2370 Eaft of Greenwich. By this longitude we mean the Weftern boundary of the coaft to the Northern Pacific ocean.—This country, as it extends towards Hudfon's or Baffin's Bay, is as yet unexplored, and, of courfe, unknown ; nor can we form any probable conjedure whether fuch a fpace is occupied by land or fea, as we have already obferved, in the introdudory memoir which treats of the North Weft Paffage, &c. With refped to the inhabitants of this extenfive fflore, we have a knowledge of four different nations, whofe occupations and manners bear a great fimilitude to each other. F f 2 a From 227 VOYAGES' TO THE From every information we could obtain, there is reafon to believe that the nation which inhabits Nootka Sound, and which extends itfelf both North and South of that port, is very numerous; but does not poffefs the fame fiercenefs of charader as their more Northern neighbours. Maquilla, with whom the reader has already been made rather intimately acquainted, is the fovereign of this territory; which extends to the Northward, as far as Cape Saint James, in the latitude of 5 2° 20' North, and longitude of 2280 30' Eaft of Greenwich; and which cape forms the Southern extremity of the great groupe of iflands that bounds the Northern Archipelago towards the Pacific Ocean ; and to the Southward, the dominions of this chief flretch away to the Iflands of Wicananiffl. There are alfo perfons of confiderable power, though inferior dignity to the fovereign chiefs:—In this ftation of honour were Callicum and Ha- napa, who have already been particularly mentioned ; and the former of whom has been, we truft, a pleafing companion to the reader through many a page of this volume.—Indeed, as we had no opportunity of vi- fiting the interior parts, at any diftance from the Sound, we can only communicate fuch information as we received from this amiable chief, whcfe frank and open difpofition was ever obedient to our enquiry ; and who, by poffeffiug an underftanding fuperior to the reft of his countrymen, was qualified to make thofe communications, on which, as far as they went, we might have an unfufpeding reliance. From him we learned that there were feveral very populous villages to the Northward, entrufted to the government of the principal female relations of Maquilla and Callicum; fuch as grandmothers, mothers, aunts, fillers, &c—but the brothers, fens, and other- male relations, were, from political motives, kept near the perfon of the chief himfelf. — 5 It I NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. It may indeed be recolleded, that the village fuddenly invaded by the enemy, and which occafioned a war expedition from Nootka Sound, has been mentioned in a former chapter as being governed with unlimited fway by the grandmother of Maquilla. The mother of Callicum enjoyed a fimilar delegated power over another diftrid; and feveral other villages were affigned to the diredion of other relations, all of which were ready to join, as occafion required, for the fupport of thek mutual fafety and to yield a ready obedience to the fummons of the fovereign chief: — The whole forming a political band of union, not very unlike to the general fyftem of government in Europe, at an early period of its civilization, and which is well known under the appellation «f the feudal fyftem. The number of inhabitants in King George's Sound amount to between three and four thoufand. Captain Cook eftimates the village of Nootka to contain about two thoufand inhabitants, and we do not think that it had undergone any change in its population when we were upon the coaft. But there are two other fubordlnate villages in the Sound, which, between them, appeared to us to contain fifteen hundred people. One of them is fituated at a confiderable diftance up the Sound, in a diftwft •committed to the jurifdidion of Hanapa. To the Northward of the Sound there are four villages, and to the Southward of it there are an equal number, of which Maquilla is the chief. From the beft information, each of thefe inhabited fpots contain, on an average, about eight hundred people; fo that the whole of Maqullla's fubjeds do not amount to more than ten thoufand people;—a very fmall number indeed to occupy fo large a fpace of country;—but the frequent wars which harafs thefe little ftates, and V O YAG E S T O T HE the fiercenefs of battle among cannibal nations, are fufficient to fatisfy us concerning the ftagnant population of thefe people. The diflrid next to King George's Sound to the Southward, is that of Wicananiffl : though he is not confidered as equal in rank to Maquilla, yet he is entirely free and independent, and by far the moft potent chief of this quarter. In the fame diflrid refide the chiefs named Detootche and Hanna, on two fmall iflands, but who are entirely free and independent. Thefe iflands are fituated a little to the Northward of Port Cox, and contain each of them about fifteen hundred people, and we did not un- derftand that they had any other dependency. The general refidence of Wicananiffl is in Port Cox, where he lives in a ftate of magnificence much fuperior to any of his neighbours, and both loved and dreaded by the other chiefs. His fubjeds, as he himfelf informed us, amounted to about thirteen thoufand people, according to the following eftimation :— In Port Cox, four thoufand; to the Southward of Port Cox to Port Effingham, and in that Port, two thoufand; and in the other villages which are fituated as far as the mouth of the Straits of John de F-uca, on the Northern fide there might be about feven thoufand people.—Here the dominions of Wicananifh end, and thofe of the next and laft chief of the Nootka territory begin, whofe name is Tatootche. The names of the feveral villages belonging to Wkananiffl were given us by himfelf, and are as follow :—Kenoumahafat, Uth-u-wil-ett, Chaiffet, Elefait, Qu-quaet, Lee-cha-ett, Equo-lett, How-fchuc-fe-lett, E-lolth-k, and Nitta-natt. Thefe names are taken down in the manner they were pronounced by Wicananiffl ; and, indeed, as we paffed along the NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, the coaft, we had communication with feveral of them, whofe inhabitants came off to us at fea, particularly from Nitta-natt, Elefoit, and E-lolth-k. ; Indeed, from the apparent populoufnefs of thefe villages, which we could very .well diftinguiffl, we rather think that the chief, either from mo- defty or ignorance, under-rated the population of his country. The fubjeds of Wicananiffl are a bold, daring people, extremely athletic, and fuperior in every refped to thofe of King George's Sound ; and, at the fame time, not fo favage as thofe of Tatootche, who refides on the ifland that bears his name, and is fituated near the South nead-land which forms the entrance of the Straits of de Fuca. With thefe people we had very little communication, but from the crowd of inhabitants colleded to view the fflip, and the number of boats filled with people which furrounded her, we fhall not over-rate the number of inhabitants on this ifland, by eftimating them at five thoufand people. The diflrid of this chief extends to Queenhkhe; and Wicananiffl informed us that it contained five villages, and about three thoufand inhabitants. We faw the large village of Queenuitett, near Queenhkhe-, and alfo feveral other fmaller ones, as we coafted along the fflore.. We could obtain no other knowledge of any villages to the Southward of Queenhkhe, but from the further Information of Wicananiffl. He indeed repeated the names of feveral, which, according to his account, were fituated a great way to the Southward, the inhabitants whereof not only fpoke a different language from the Nootka natives, but who varied alfo in manners and cuftoms. That this part of his intelligence was corred, we had fufficient proof, when we were off Shoalwater Bay, as the two natives who then approached the fflip, fpoke a language which t feemed V O YAG E S TO THE feemed to have no affinity with that of Nootka, and appeared, in the circumftances of drefs and the form of their canoe, to be a feparate and diftind people from the American nations which we had vifited. The following names of the villages to the Southward of Queenhkhe', were taken down, at the moment, as Wicananiffl pronounced them :——' Chanutt, Clanamutt, Chee-mee-fett, Lo-the-att-ffleeth, Lu-nee-chett, Thee-wich-e-rett, Chee-fet, Lino-quoit, Nook-my-ge-mat, Amuo-fkett, Nuiffet-tuc-fauk, Quoit-fee-noit, Na-nunc-chett; and Chu-a-na-fkett. The knowledge which Wicananiffl poffeffed of the names of thefe places, proves very evidently that either he or fome of his people have had fome communication with the inhabitants of them. But whether this was a matter of defign or hazard, of an occafional trading intercourfe, or the accidental effeds of a ftorm, which has been frequently known to have driven canoes to a great diftance, and carried the affrighted Indian to the hofpitalky or the deftrudion of a remote coaft, we cannot pretend to fay; as it was not always in our power to make ourfelves intelligible to the favages, or render them intelligent to ourfelves. Thefe places are beyond the limits of that part of America comprifed in the four nations, extending from Prince William's Sound to Queen Charlotte's Ifles, and the Northern Archipelago; and from thence to Nootka and Cape Shoalwater ; fo that any hiftory of the people that inhabit them, muft be a matter of mere conjedure, and therefore totally improper to interrupt the authentic narrative before us. Of the inhabitants refiding up the Straits of de Fuca, we could obtain no information from the people of Nootka; but from the multitude NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. which attacked the long-boat, we had no doubt that they were very numerous. «§s|f>53* The American continent, in almoft every part, prefents nothing to the eye but immenfe ranges of mountains or impenetrable forefts.— From Cape Saint James to Queenhkhe, which we have confidered as the diflrid of. Nootka, and inhabited by the fame nations, this fcene invariably prefents kfelf, and admits of very little if any variety. In fome places the country appears to be level on the coaft, but ftill the eye foon finds kfelf checked by fleep hills and mountains, covered, as well as every part of the low-land, with thick woods down to the margin of the fea. The fummks of the higher mountains, indeed, were compofed of fharp prominent ridges of rocks, which are clad in fnow inftead of verdure ;—and now and then we faw a fpot clear of wood, but it was very rare, and of fmall extent. The climate of this country, that is from Cape Saint James to the Southward, is much milder than the Eaftern coaft on the oppofite fide of America, in the feme parallel of latitude. The winter generally fets in. with rain and hard gales from the South Eaft, in the month of November; but it very feldom happens that there is any froft till January, when it is fo flight as very rarely to prevent the inhabitants from navigating the Sound in their canoeb. The fmall coves and rivulets are generally frozen; but I could not difeover that any one remembered to' have feen the Sound covered with ice. The winter extends only from November to March, when the ground is covered with fnow, which difappears from off the lower lands in G g April, 1 V O YAG E S TO THE April, and vegetation is then found to have made a Qoafiderable advance. April and May are the fpring months, and in June the wild fruits are already ripened. To the Northward of King George's Sound the cold encreafes, and the winters are longer; as to the Southward, it of courfe dkniniffles;. and we fflould fuppofe that to the Southward of 450 there muft be one of the moft pleafant climates' in the world. The mercury in the thermometer often flood in the middle of fum- mer at 700, particularly in the coves and harbours that were ffleltered from the Northern winds; but we very feldom had k lower than 40 in the evenings. Fires, however, were very acceptable both in May and September; but we attributed this circumftance in a great meafure to the South Eaft winds, which were ever attended with rain and raw cold. The North Wefterly winds, on the contrary, blow clear, but are rather cool. The winds which prevail during the fummer months, are the Wefterly ones, which extend their influence over the Northern Pacific Ocean, to the Northward of 30° North, as the. Eafterly wind* blow invariably to the equator from this latitude* Storms from the Southward are very frequent in the winter months* but there is no reafon to fuppofe that they operate with fuch a degree of violence as to prevent fhips from navigating the American coaft, in. any feafon of the year.. There are feveral harbours in the diftrid of Nootka, which are ca>- pable of receiving, into perfed fecurity, flapping of the largeft burthen. King George's Sound is an abfolute colledion of harbours and- coves, which are ffleltered from the violence of all winds. Port Cox> and Port Effingham are of the firft kind for capacioufnefs and fafety; and to the Northward of Nootka to Cape Saint James, we may fafely conjedure NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 2.j conjedure that there are founds and harbours equal to any which have 1*8*. been already defcribed. Befides, this coaft is by no means difficult to s*?™*MRv navigate, from its very deep waters and bold fflores. We cannot but confider it as a remarkable circumftance, that during the whole length of our coafling voyage, we did not meet with a fingle river of any magnitude. The very fmall ftreams which emptied themfelves every where into the fea, were generally fupplied by rains and fnow from the mountains. We found alfo very few fpring3 ; fo that from thefe and other circumftances, with fuch accounts as we could get from the natives, we had been frequently difpofed to imagine, that the land which we had confidered as the American coaft, was a chain of iflands, feparated by large and capacious channels from the continent*. * This conjecture will be confidered in one of the Introdu&ory Memoirs, with fo'l&e account of the voyage of the American Hoop Wafhington, in the autumn of 1789, whick was not received till we were thus far advanced in our Narrative. Gg2 236 1783. V O YAG E S TO THE CHAP. XXII. Account of the Diflridt of Nootka continued.—Vegetable Productions',—Great Plenty of Wild Fruits.—Efculent Roots, Sic—Quadrupeds.—Deer.—Foxes. —Martens.—The Ermine.—Squirrel, &c.—Marine Animals.—The Whale, Sword Fifh, Seals, &c.—Particular Account of the Sea Otter.—Various Kinds of. Birds,—Aquatic Fowls.—Fifh of various Kinds.—Manner of taking fome of them.—Reptiles.—Infers.—Minerals.—Conjeblures concern*^ ing Mines in this Country, &c. &c. T] ^HE vegetable produdions of the diflrid of Nootka, which have come to our knowledge, are not numerous, though we muft acknowledge that our botanical enquiries were neceffarily very confined.— We have no doubt but that confiderable additions might be made from this country to the colleded ftores both of Zoology and Botany ; but we wanted fkill fufficient to render ourfelves ferviceable in this pleafing range of fcience. We fflared the natural lot of all private expeditions equipped for the purpofes of commercial.adventure, in which a knowledge of thefe branches of philofophy is not an effential qualification, and where even every purfuit of fcience muft give way to thofe of mercantile advantage. Among the trees which compofe thefe forefts, we obferved the black and $j white fpruce, with the pine and cyprefs ; and a great variety with whofe. form and foliage we were wholly unacquainted; many of which, however, would anfwer every purpofe of the dock-yard. Timbers cut from fome of them proved fo extremely hard, that it was with difficulty they could be worked into fflape. We particularly remarked that in King George's Sound, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 23 Sound, Port Cox, and Port Effingham, the trees in general grow with 1788. great vigour, and are of a fize fufficient for mails of any dimenfions. S«TIME« On the rocky iflands, and in the woods, we found the wild ftrawberry in great abundance. There were alfo currant trees of the black kind, and gbofeberry buffles, which feemed to bear fruit only in certain parts. There is a fpecies of rafberry of the moft delicious flavour, and far fuperior to any fruit of that kind we had ever before tailed. It grows on a larger bufh than our European rafberry, and is free from thorns ; but the fruit kfelf is fo delicate, that a fflower of rain waffles it entirely away. There is alfo a fmall red fruit, not unlike in fize, fflape and tafte, to our currant, which grew on trees of a confiderable fize, in the greateft abundance. It is a favourite food of the natives, and during the months-of July and Auguft,. the chief employment was to gather it, and a fpecies of blackberry, both red and white, but very much fuperior to our wild fruit of that kind, both in fize and flavour. The quantities of berry fruits that the natives brought us, proved their extreme plenty. To us they were a very falutary as well as pleafant addition to our table, and the failors fat down every day to a pudding made of them. We alfo preferved feveral fmall calks of the red fruit with fugar, which lafted feveral months, and were very fer- viceable to us at fea. Wild leeks grow every where In the greateft profufion ; and the efculent roots are in great variety, fome of which have a tafte fimilar to the fea fpinnage. When, however, they could not be procured, the tops of the young nettle proved an excellent fuccedaneum. Of thefe the natives are immoderately fond ; after having ftripped the younger plants of a thin coat, they eat them in their raw ftate. Towards I VOYAGES TO THE Towards the water-fide we obferved grea* quantities of wild whieaty or goofe-grafs. We every -where found in the woods wild rofes and fweet-briar, which perfumed the air. We faw alfo the anthericum •that bears' the oran$e«flotver, and many other kinds of plants, W&kh our ignorance in the botanic fcience prevents us from enumerating OP attempting to defcribe. Indeed, the conftant employment which our commercial concerns required of us, was wholly unfavourable to the refearches of natural philofophy; but we have every reafon to believe that any one of botanical experience, who fflould vifit this coaft in the fummer feafon, would add to the ftock of his knowledge in this? ■ufeful and delightful fcience. The quadrupeds which we had an opportunity of feeing, were very I few ;—they were deer, racoons, martens^ fqnkrels and foxes. The deer which we received as prefents from the chiefs were very fmall, but we have feen others in their poffeffion of the moofe kind, extremely large, with branching horns. We believe, however, that the latter were not in great plenty : indeed in all our exeurfions we never were fo fuccefsful as to bring one home, though we had feen and wounded them. The foxes are very common, and differ much in fize and colour; fome are yellow, with a long, foft, and very beautiful fur: others are of a dirty red ; and a third fort of a kind of afh colour. The marten bears a ftrong refemblance to that of Canada, particularly as to fize and fflape ; but it is not fo black, nor is its fkin fo valuable as thofe brought from that country. There is alfo another fpecies of them here, whofe hair is fo very coarfe as to be in little or no eftimation with the natives. The .NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. The ermine is very fearce ; and thofe of this animal which we faw, were rather of a yellowifh colour, and poffeffing, in no degree, that ' beautiful whitenefs which makes them fo eftimable in the countries of Europe. •Neither racoons or fquirrels appeared to be in great plenty ; the former are tame like thofe of Eaftern America, and the latter are fmaller than our European fquirrel, but not of fo bright a colour. During the time we remained on the coaft, we faw but two beaver fkins ; but they were the richeft fpecimens of that fur which we ever remember to have feen. The natives made frequent mention of bears, of which they gave us to underftand there were great numbers in the forefts, of a very fierce nature, and with whom they fometimes had terrible battles; but we were never fo fortunate as to fee one of them ; and though fome of our people went out occafionally a bear hunting,, they always returned without the gratification even of having feen their game. Our knowledge did not extend further than to the above animals,. though k is more than probable, that there are many other kinds of them who inhabit the forefts of this country :—Indeed, we faw fkins which ferved for the drefs, ornament, or armour of the natives, that muft have belonged to animals which we had not feen. Though thefe might be got in bartering with thofe tribes who may be fuppofed to inhabit the interior parts of the country. The mountain ffieep, though inhabitants of the Northern part of the coaft, do not extend themfelves fo far to the Southward as the diflrid of Nootka; at leaft we never faw their fleece or their horns, i which VOYAGES TO THE which .are in fuch univerfal ufe with the Indians of Prince William's Sound and Cook's River. The fea coafts of this country abound with numerous marine animals ; fuch as whales, both of the bone and fpermaceti kind; thrafhers, grampuffes, porpoifes, both black and white, feals, fea-lions, fea-cows, the river-otter, and above all, the fea-otter. During the fummer, when employed in navigating the coaft, we faw. great numbers of whales, and were fometimes witneffes to dreadful battles between them, the fword-fiffl and thethrafher, who filled the air with the noife of their combats. The natives, in hunting the whale, prefer thofe fmall ones with hunches on their backs, as being the moft eafy to kill. They purfue alfo the fea-lion and the fea-cow for the fame reafon. The vaft number of feals- which are every where feen, render them an eafy prey to the natives, who confider them as delicious food. Their {kins are of a filvery colour, fpotted with black,, and covered with a coarfe hair. The fleffl of the fea-cow and fea-lion are efteemed peculiar delicacies, and are even preferred to the whale; but are very fearce to the Southward.—More to the North they are found in great plenty. The number of thefe animals which are deftroyed by the natives for food, muft be very confiderable : the grampus and porpoife feem, in fome degree, to efcape this general deftrudion, being confidered as in- I ferior, both in point of ufefulnefs or luxury. But abundant as the whales may be in the vicinity of Nootka, they bear no comparifond, to the numbers feen on the Northern part of the coaft : indeed the generality of thefe huge [marine animals delight in the frpzen cli- ' mates. The NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. The fea-otter we believe to be an inhabitant of every part of the North Weftern Coaft of America, from the latitude of 300 North to Skf 60° North. Their fur is the fineft in the world ; it poffefles a jetty blacknefs, and is of exceeding beauty. The peculiar warmth it affords, renders it a moft valuable clothing in the colder climates ; but confidered in an ornamental view, it has a rich and magnificent appearance, and, under a certain arrangement, may vie even with the royal ermine. The ocean bordering on the American coaft is not the exclufive habitation of the fea-otter:—that animal frequents the coaft of Japan and that of China, particularly in the Yellow Sea, and the neighbourhood of Corea ; but we have never heard that they are found farther to the Southward. They, indeed, delight in, as they feemed to be formed for, cold climates, and are wonderfully clad to refift the feverity of the coldeft region. There are, however, particular places to which they never fail to refort in great numbers, as is fuppofed, on account of the fhoals of fiffl which frequent them, and are the food of the otter. This animal, like the river-otter, is of an amphibious nature ; but their peculiar element is the fea. They are fometimes feen many leagues from land, fleeping on their backs, on the furface of the water, with their young ones reclining on their breaft. As the cubs are incapable of fwimming till they are feveral months old, the mother muft have fome curious method of carrying them out to fea, and returning them to their hiding places on fflore, or in the cavities of rocks that projed into the fea: indeed, they are known to fleep with their young on their breaft, and to fwim with them on their back ; but if they fflould be unfortunately overtaken by the hunters, the dam and her brood always die together :—She will not leave her young ones in the moment of danger, and therefore {hares their fate. H h From I VOYAGES TO THE From the formation of their lungs they are unable to remain under water longer than two minutes, when-they are forced to rife to the fur- face for refpiration; and it is this circumftance which gives their pur- fuers.fuch advantage over them ;—though the wonderful fwiftnefs with which they fwim, very often baffles the utmoft attention and fkill of the hunter. Nature has furnifhed this creature with powerful weapons of offence and deftrudion. Its fore-paws are like thofe of the river-otter, but of much larger fize, and greater ftrength :—its hind-feet are fkirted with a membrane, on which, as well as on the fore-feet, there grows a thick and coarfe hair:—its mouth contains moft formidable rows of teeth, fuperior to any other marine carnivorous animal except the fflark. The fur varies in beauty according to the different gradations of life.— The young cubs of a few months old, are covered with a long, coarfe, white hair, which proteds the fine down that lies beneath it.—The natives often pluck off this coarfe hair, when the lower fur appears of a beautiful brown colour and velvet appearance. As they encreafe in age this long hair falls off, and the fur becomes blackiffl, but ftill remains fhort.—When the animal is full grown, it becomes of a jet black, and encreafes in beauty ; the fur-then thickens, and is thinly fprinkled with white hairs.—When they are paft their ftate of perfedion, and verge towards old age, their {kin changes into a dark-brown, dingy colour, and, of courfe, proportionably diminiffles in value. This is the beft account we could obtain of this curious and valuable;! animal; for it would be impoflible for us to defcribe, with any degree of fatisfadion, the different kinds of otter fkins brought to us for fale.— The great variety of colour, from a chefnut brown to a jet black, which 5 we- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, we obferved in therm, makes it difficult for us to afeefitak* the precife period of their lives, when they have arrived at perfedion. At firft we really fuppofed them to be the fkins of different animals, or of various fpecies of the fame animal:—but we afterwards difcovered what we have already ftated concerning the advancement of them to beauty ; and perhaps other circumftances may combine to hafteu, or retacd the period of their moft perfed ftate.—We are difpofed to imagine that they undergo ait annual chang® in thei* fur, either by ffleddihg the old, or acquiring new; aid that thekfkins are confiderably affeded by the different feafons of the year.—We obferved that the fkins of the otters killed during the winter, were of a more beautiful black, and, in every refped, more perfed than thofe which were taken in the fummer or autumn. 1788. The Chinefe, who muft be confidered as the beft judges of thefe fkins, clafs them under eight or ten denominations, and affix to each a proportionate value, concerning which they would never fufFetr us, in our bargains: with them, to intrude an opinion.—As furriers, they held us, and perhaps with fome reafon, in very low eftimation. The male otter is, beyond all comparifon, more beautiful than the female, and is diftinguiffled by the fuperior jetty colour, as well as velvet appearance of his fkin ; whereas the head, throat and belly of the female, is not only covered with a fur that is white, but which is alfo of a very coarfe texture. The fkins in the higheft eftimation, are thofe which have the belly and throat plentifully interfperfed with a kind of brilliant filver hairs, while the body is covered with a thick black fur, of extreme finenefs, and a filky glofs.—Indeed in this ftate, the fur of the fea otteris, taken in all its circumftances, fuperior for cloathing, to that of any other animal in the world. Hh2 It VOYAGES TO THE It is however faid in China, that the fkins of this" animal taken inthe Corean and Japan feas, are fuperior to thofe of Ruffia or the North Weftern Coaft of America. The abundance of thefe animals, which frequent every part of the Ame-: rican coaft, occafion their being caught without much.difficulty by the natives; who not only owe the magnificence'of thek appearance, as well as a moft comfortable protedion againft'the feverky of thek winters, to the Ikin of the fea-otter, but alfo find in its flefh what they confider as moft delicious food. It differs from the river otter, or capucca, as called by the people of Nootka, and which is the fame as that of Canada: in its form, fize, and fur, it is far fuperior. The fpecies of birds which frequent the American fflore are very confined :—We obferved the crow, the magpie, the thruffl, the woodpecker, the wren, the king-fiffler, the common land-lark, the plover, the hawk, and the white-headed eagle. The wood-pigeon was alfo fometimes, but very rarely feen. The aquatic fowls were far more numerous; and confifted of the common fea-gulls and fflags; many kinds of ducks and divers; the fea-parrot, and many others, of which we knew not the names. Vaft quantities of fifh are to be found, both on the coaft and in the founds or harbours.—Among thefe are the halibut, herring, fardine, filver-bream, falmon, trout, cod, elephant-fiffl, fflark, dog-fifh, cuttle-fiffl, great variety of rock-fifh, &c. All of which we have feen in the poffeffion of the natives, orhave been caught by ourfelves. There are, proba- i bly, | NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. bly, a great abundance of other kinds, which are not to be taken by the 17 hook, the Only method of taking fiffl with which the natives are ac- Septe quainted, and we had neither trawls or nets. In the fpring, the herrings as well as the fardlnes, frequent the coaft in vaft fhoals. The herring is from feven to eight inches long,-and-, in general, fmaller than thofe taken in- the Britifh feas. The fardine refembles that of Portugal, and is very delicious : they are here taken by the people in prodigious quantities.—They firft drive the fhoals into the fmall coves, or fhallow waters, when a certain number of men in canoes, keep plafhing the water, while others fink branches of the pine with ftones ; the fiffl are then eafily taken out with wooden troughs or wkker bafkets. We have fometimes feen fuch numbers of them, that a whole village has not been able to cleanfe them before they began to grow putrid. After being cleaned, they are placed on rods, and hung in rows, at a certain diftance, over their fires, that they may be fmoked; and when they are fufficiently dried, they are carefully packed up in mats, and laid by as a part, and a very confiderable part, of their winter's provifion. The feafon for taking thefe fiffl is in the months of July and Auguft. Certain people, at this time, are ftationed on particular emi- nencies, to look for the arrival of the fhoals, which can be very readily- dlftinguifhed by the particular motion of the fea. The natives then- embark in their canoes to proceed'in their fifhery. The fardine is preferred by them to every other kind of fiffl, except the falmon. In the months of July, Auguft, and September, falmon are taken,, though not in fo great abundance as the other fiffl, but are of a very delicate flavour. They are fplit, dried, and packed up, as has already been defcribed, and are confidered as a great delicacy. The falmon of 246 VOYAGESTOTHE i-jM. ofjehe d&ftrid of Nootka are very different from thofe found to the September. Northward,, which are of an inferior kind, and of the fame fpecies' with thofe taken at Kamtfehatka. During our flay In- King George's.Sound, we faw very few fliarks or halibut; but the cod taken; by the natives were- of the beft quality:— they are alfo prepared, like the reft, for the purpofe of winter ftores. We faw the red fnapper here, but it was very uncommon ; and we now and then obferved the large cuttle-fifh, which the natives eat with great relifh in its raw ftate. The mufeles are of a very large fize,. and filled' with a fmall, feedy , pearl, about the fize of a pin's head, very ill-fflapedj and by no means traafparent. We fato alfo fea-ears, cockles^ limpets, ftar-fifti, and many other marine produdions in gseat abundance^ The fmall fea-cxabs-haye-f' a very delicate flavour, and are in great plenty. The reptiles of this country are confined, at leaft as far as our knowledge extends, to a fmall brown fnake, about eighteen inches in length,*^ which fled on hearing the leaft noife. In our frequent vifits to the woods we .faw no other; fo that they may be traverfedr without the,, leaft fear of meeting with thofe dangers from poifonous animals, of the reptile kind, which infeft the Eaftern fide of America. There are however, great quantities of mufquitoes, which prove a fevere inconvenience to the natives. We faw butterflies of various kinds, and fome of uncommon fize and beauty. The bee, common fly, and various fpecies of" moths, were in great numbers, and compofed all that we recalled, to have feen of the in-fed tribe on the North Weft Coaft of America. Of NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, .H7 Of the minerals of this country, we can onfyjualge from the different r-88. kinds of ore which we faw in the poffeffion of the natives; and from *m>P«. thofe fpecimens, we are difpofed to confider them of the moft valuable kind. The pure malleable lumps of copper ore feen in the poffeffion of the natives, convince us that there are mines of this metal in the vicinity of this part of the Weftern coaft. We once faw a piece of it, which appeared to weigh about a pound, through which an hole had been perforated fufficiently large for an handle to pafs, in order to make a kind of hammer. On enquiring of the man in whofe poffeffion it was, from whence he procured it, he made us underfland that he- had received it in barter from fome of the native people who lived more to the Northward. We had alfo occafionally feen necklaces and a fort of bracelets worn <sax the wrifl, which were of the pureft ore, and to all appearance had newer been in the poffeffion of an European. The natives make a kind of coarfe red ochre, for the purpofe of painting themfelves, but more particularly their faces, which very probably contains metalline particles; we alfo obferved that they employed a black pigment, which they ufe to paint their bodies. Over the latter they aftrew a glittering fand, which was very much efteemed by them ; and from its appearance, our failors, at firft, took it for gold. It was colleded from a bed of rock of a whitiffl colour, at the bottom of a rivulet; it ran in veins, poffeffed a fflining quality, and was of a gold colour. On breaking a piece of the rock, thefe fflining particles vaniffled, and what remained, was black and, flaky; which, however, on being reduced to powder, refumed the brilliant appearance we have mentioned, and formed the proudeft ornament of the Nootkan inhabitants. Sir Francis Drake fpeaks of this fflining fand in his account of New Albion. But a+8 VOYAGES TO THE 17881 But we are not fufficiently {killed in mineralogy, to juftify our offering iptember. a^ obfervations concerning it. We alfo faw feveral odangular pieces of rock chryftal, perfedly tranfparent,. and worn by the natives as ornaments about their neck.—J They generally had about them a fmall piece of Mufcovy glafs, which they held in high eftimation. The imperfed knowledge we have yet obtained of this country, muft render all conjedure vain as to its mineral poffeffions. The Spaniards, however, who have the keeneft fcent of any people for thofe riches which are contained in the bowels of the earth, in the month of Auguft, 1789, opened a mine in an ifland, called Hog Ifland, which is fituated in the harbour of Friendly Cove, in King George's Sound. Their miners- were kept conftantly at work, and no one but themfelves fuffered to approach the ifland, except the foldiers ordered to guard it. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. CHAP. XXIII. The Perfons of the Inhabitants defcribed.—The Manner in which they treat their Infant Children.—Their Averfton to Beards.—Dreffes, Male and Female.—Various Kinds of them.'—Their Mafks, and the Ufes of them.— Difpofition and Temper of the Natives.—An horrid Cuftom of killing a Slave every Month, for the Purpofe of eating him.—Ihe Ceremonies ufed on this . Occafion.—-The Circumftance which led to the Difcovery of this cruel Praclice, &c. TH E people of the Nootkan nation are, in general, robuft and well proportioned;—their faces are large and full, their cheeks high and prominent, with fmall black eyes ;—their nofes are broad and flat; their lips thick ; and they have, generally, very fine teeth, and of the moft brilliant whitenefs. The manner in which the children of Nootka are treated when young, is not more extraordinary from ks.ftrange, and, as it fhould appear, . total inutility, as from its agreement with the cuftoms of the Chinefe and Tartars, to whom this pradice gives thefe people a confiderable refemblance. The head of the infant is bound by the mother with a kind of fillet of feveral folds, as low down as the eyes, in order to give it a certain form, which, at this tender age, it is capable of receiving. It might be fuppofed that fuch a tight drawn ligature muft caufe confiderable pain to the child ; but we never obferved that any of the infants Ii in 249 1788. 2e0 VOYAGESTOTHE 1788. in fuch a ftate of preparation for fugar-loaf heads, fuffered any vifible pain or inconvenience. Though the cuftom of compreffing the head in this manner, gives them an unpleafant appearance, by drawing up the eye-brows, and fometimes producing the difagreeable effed of fquinting, as well as of flattening the nofe and diftending the noftrils, they are by no means an ill-looking race of people. They have alfo the cuftom, which is known to prevail in fo many Indian nations, of plucking out the beard by the roots, on its firft appearance; and, as it continues to fprout, to keep it. down by the fame pradice. It is one of the domeftic employments affigned to their wives to watch this appearance of manhood, and to eradicate the hairs as they come forth ; which they do in a very dexterous manner with their fingers, and without giving the leaft pain in the operation.—Some of them, however, though we faw but very few of this difpofition, when they advance in years, and become infirm, fuffer their beards to grow without interruption.—But, notwithftanding they have fb great an averfion to the hair of their chin, that of the head is an.objed of their attentive vanity.—It is ftrong, black and gloffy, grows to a confiderable length, and is either tied in a kind of knot on the top of their heads, or fuffered to hang down their backs in flowing negligence. In their exterior form they have not the fymmetry or elegance whichr| is found in many other Indian nations.—-Their limbs, though flout and athletic, are crooked and ill-fflaped; their skin, when cleanfed of filth and ochre, is white, and we have feen fome of the women, when in a ftate of cleanlinefs,—which, however, was by no means a common fight, and obtained with difficulty,—who not only poffeffed the fair complexion of Europe, but features that would have attraded notice for'their delicacy and beauty, in thofe parts.of the world where the qualities of the human form NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. form are beft underftood. But thefe examples of beauty are by ho means "numerous among the women of Nootfea, who are calculated rather to dif- guft than to charm an European beholder. Their hair, like that of the men, is black ; their eyes are of the fame coiour;—and, in their exterior appearance, they are not to.be immediately diftinguiffled from the men. In their charaders they are referved and chafle ; and examples of loofe and immodefl condud were very rare among them. There were women in Saint George's Sound, whom no offers could tempt to meretricious fubmiflions. The principal drefs of the men is either compofed of the skin of the fea-otter, or confifts of a kind of flaxen garment, made by the women from the bark of a tree and the filament of a nettle, prepared in a particular manner. The skin of the bear, the racoon, or other animals, are fometimes worn, according to the caprices of fancy, or the temperature of the weather. The otter veftment' is compofed of two large fkins fewed on one fide, which form a covering from the heck to the ancles ; it paffes under the left arm, and is tied over the right ffloulder by a leathern thong faftened to the {kins, leaving both arms entkely free from any kind of reftraint. This garment, in its form and folds, is far from being ungraceful ; and, when aided by the richnefs of the fur, wants nothing but. cleanlinefs to make it a veftment of the moft pleafing defcription. They have alfo another garment, made from the inner bark of the pine-tree and the filaments of the nettle.—Thefe are fteeped for fome time in urine ; and having been well beaten, they are feparated into threads, which is. a matter of no great fkill. A'certain quantity of thefe threads joined together, form one of the ftronger thongs, a numb Ii which VOYAGES TO THE which are prepared twice the length of the garment, and laid double acrofs a long flick ; when they are readily platted into the kinds of mat of which this article of the Nootkan drefs is made. The women are very expert at this bufinefs, which is one of their principal employments.— This garment, from its clofe contexture, is warm, and, when new and clean, is rather of an elegant appearance, efpecially when its edges are trimmed with a narrow fringe of the fea-otter's skin; but the filth of the houfes, and the perfonal naftinefs of the people, almoft immediately foils, and of courfe deftroys its beauty: the natives call it a cotfack, and wear it in the.fame manner as their dreffes of skin and fur. '^''-^SB The cap which they ufe as a covering for their head, is of a conic I form, made of matting, and of fo clofe a texture as to be capable of holding water. It is ornamented with painted reprefeiitations of birds and other animals, and faftened by a leathern thong, tied beneath the chin. There is, without doubt, a very great convenience in this part of their drefs, but it is by no means calculated to add to the grace or fierce- nefs of their appearance. Their faces are generally painted with a fort of red ochre: in vifits of ceremony every part of their body is bedaubed with it, which makes - them of a reddifh hue, and difagreeable appearance ; and being mixed with train-oil, with which they previoufly anoint themfelves, is accompanied with a rancid fmell. In this fafhion of painting themfelves they adopt various modes, which, as it appeared to us, they appropriate to certain occafions. When they go on a war expedition, black is a prevalent colour, laid on in ftreaks, on a white ground; we have fometimes alfo feen them painted entirely white; and, at other times, of a bright red, over which they flrewed a fflining fand, which has been akeady defcribed. But s NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. But in whatever fafhion they thought proper to colour themfelves, they appeared to us equally difgufting; it was, if we may ufe the expreffion, when they were in defhabille, that they appeared to the greateft advantage. The ears of the men are univerfally perforated. Some of thefe have feveral holes, in which they fix fmall leathern thongs, ftrung either with porcupines quills, fmall pieces of copper, or any other ornament they could procure from us. But buttons, when they could be obtained, fup- planted all other articles, and we have fometimes feen their ears drawn down almoft to their fhoulders by the weight of them. The feptum, or that part, of the nofe which divides the noftrils, is alfo fometimes perforated, from whence pieces of copper, iron or tin, fhaped in various ways, are fufpended.—They wear alio, round their wrifts, a kind of bracelet, made of .metal, or of leather ftrung with fflells, and fometimes of a number of fimple thongs of leather. They apply the fame kind of ornament to their ancles ; but with a greater number of thongs, and a proportionable encreafe in the fize of the beads or other decorations. The drefs of the women very materially differs from that of the men ; and is calculated, with great modefly, to prevent that perfonal expofure which accompanies the drefs of the other fex. They are never fuffered to wear the fea-otter fkin, or furs of any kind, as far as we could obferve, — Their' dreffes are made of mats, manufadured by themfelves, in the form of a fhift, without fkeves, which falls down to the ancle. A kind of mantle, with a hole in the middle, paffes over their head, and is contrived to cover their arms without reftraining their motion; though it very feldom happens that in any of their employments more than half the arm becomes vifible. A cap of the fame kind as that of the men, compleats their drefs.. Their long- black VOYAGES TO THE black hair hangs down their back; but-they are not allowed to employ any other paint but of a red colour, which, however, they ufe in great ofufion We obferved very few of them who were adorned with the ■ decorations. But thefe are the dreffes of peace ;—the people of Nootka have another for war, and is admirably contrived to anfwer the purpofe for which it is put on. It confifts of a thick leathern frock or doublet, made from the skin of the elk, cut into a fringe at the fides and neck, and adorned on the other parts with taffels of leather : it reaches from the neck to the heels, and is painted with various devices. This garment is fufficiently ftrong to refift the arrows or even the fpears of their enemies, as by hanging loofe it yields to the force, and checks the progrefs both of one and the other. It may, therefore, be confidered as a very complete defenfive armour. This drefs is accompanied with a mask reprefenting the head of fome animal ; it is made of wood, with the eyes, teeth, &c. and is a work of confiderable ingenuity. Of thefe masks they have a great variety, which are applicable to certain circumftances and occa- fions. Thofe, for example, which reprefent the head of the otter, or any other marine animals, are ufed only when they go to hunt them.—In their war expeditions, but at no other time, they cover the whole of their drefs with large"bear-skins. They alfo adorn their heads with feathers and the down of birds,—a cuftom which they rigidly obferve - in their firft approach to ftrangers. When we firft faw them dreffed in this manner, their ferocious appearance was rather alarming, but this lingular mode of difguifing themfelves, loft its deformity by a familiar intercourfe, and beftig continually in the habit of obferving the charader of this inoffenfive people. When fitting in their houfes and converfing with their families, they loft all that 5 I aif NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, air of ferocity which they derived from the drefs we have juft defcribed.— They were, in.general, courteous to us, and affable to each other; and ' they feemed to entertain fomething like a very corred notion of right and wrong ; being confident when ading with redkude, and diffident when doing any thing under an oppofite influence : for I do not recoiled a fingle inftance, where the reproach we made them on any detedion, was not attended with the moft evident fenfe of fflame. It would not, perhaps, be the beft ground to form a judgment of their real charader by their immediate condud to us, as that might take its fhape from the fear of our power, or the hope of our favour. But in their demeanour to each other, we frequently faw thofe attentions, and difcovered thofe friendly difpofitions which leave no doubt as to the amiable qualities they pof- fefs. On the other hand, their fanguinary appetites and cannibal pro- penfities were but too evident; fo that we were divided between our regard and abhorrence of the Nootkan people. 255 788. Callicum and Hanapa both declared their averfion to the pradice of eating human fleffl ; at the fame time they acknowledged it exifted among them, and .that Maquilla was fo much attached to this deteftable banquet, as to kill a flave every moon, to gratify his unnatural appetite.— Thefe chiefs, with every look and expreflion of abhorrence, gave us the following account of this bloody ceremony. The number of Maquilla's flaves were very confiderable, not only atNoot-. ka, but in other parts of his territories. And when the fatal day arrived which was to be celebrated by the feaft of an human vidim, a certain ■ number of thefe flaves were affembled in the houfe of the fovereign chief, who feleded the objed to be eaten by him and his guefts, in the following curious manner:—The inferior chiefs who were invited to partake of the approaching banquet, performed the cere- VOYAGES TO THE monies which were appointed to precede it:—thefe confift of finging the war fong, dancing round the fire, and fomenting the flames, by throwing oil into them. A bandage is then tied over the eyes of Maquilla, who in this blindfold ftate is to feize a Have. His adivity in the purfuit, with the alarms and exertions of thefe unhappy wretches in avoiding it, form another part of this inhuman bufinefs. But it is feldom a work of delay,—fome one of thefe flaves is foon caught,—death inftantly follows,—the devoted carcafe is immediately cut in pieces, and its reeking portions diflributed to the guefts : when an univerfal fflout of thofe who have efcaped, declares the joy of their deliverance. We were not by any means difpofed to give credit to this extraordinary adion, and rather imagined that it was invented to injure Maquilla in our opinion ; for when we recolleded that the pillow of Callicum was filled with human fculls, we could not but fufped if the former was; a cannibal, that the latter was alfo of the fame defcription. Our fubfe- quent enquiries, however, confirmed all that Callicum had afferted;— and many of the natives affured us that he was an honourable exception to the general difpofition'of the Nootkan people to human flefh. The fculls on which he repofed might, indeed, be the remains of his anceftors ; or, which is more probable, the trophies of his prowefs, and preferved by him to record his valour; as ftandards taken from an enemy, in the wars of polifhed nations, are hung up as enfigus of their glory, in the public places of their metropolitan cities. A circumftance however took place very foon after we had received the information we have juft related, which induced Maquilla himfelf to confirm the truth of this cruel hiftory, and to name even the very time when the laft feene of his tragic gluttony was aded by him. -81 ■ it 1 j NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA. It fo happened that the chief, in afcending the fide of the fflip, by fome untoward accident received an hurt in his leg. Orders were immediately s given to the furgeon to do what was neeeflary on the occafion ; and when he-was about to apply a plaifter to the wound, Maquilla abfolutely refufed to fuffer the application, but fucked himfelf the blood which flowed freely from it : and when we exprefled our aftonifflment and difguft at his condud, he replied, by licking his lips, patting his belly, and exclaiming cloojh, clooffh ; or good, good. Nor did he now hefitate to confefs that he eat human fleffl, and to exprefs the delight he took in banqueting on his fellow creatures. Nay, he not only avowed the pradice of which he had been accufed, but informed us, as we flood ffluddering at the ftory, that, a very fflort time before, the ceremony of killing and eating a flave had taken place even in Friendly Cove. We terrified him however into a promife, that no fuch barbarity fflould be again pradifed by himfelf, or any others in his territories; and gave him to underftand, with the moft determined tone and look we could affume, that he him-- felf fflould not long furvive' another repetition of it. Kk 1 VOYAGES TO THE CHAP. XXIV. Employments of the Men of Nootka.—They conftft, in general, of hunting- different Marine and Land Animals,—Killing the Whale, &c. defcribed.— Method of hunting the Sea-Otter, the Seal, &c.—Their more domeftic Occupations,—Making Implements for Fifhing and War.—Their Canoes :—A Defcription of-them.—A particular Manner of Fifing.—Employments of the Women.—Manner of collecling and preferving the Roes of Fifi.—The Difpofition of the People to War^—The Cuftom of exchanging their Women.— Their Religion, M &c± TH E occupations of the men on this coaft were fuch as arofe from- their particular fituation. Fifhing, and hunting the land or larger marine animals, either for food or furs, form their principal employments.—The common bufinefs of fifhing for ordinary fuftenance is carried on by flaves,. or the lower clafs of people :—While the more noble occupation of killing the whale and hunting the fea-otter, is followed by none but the chiefs and warriors.. Their dexterity in killing the whale is not eafily defcribed, and the- facility with whkh they convey fo huge a creature to their habitations is- no lefs remarkable. When it is determined to engage in whale-hunting, which the moft ftormy weather does not prevent, the chief prepares himfelf, with no common ceremony* for this noble diverfion.—He is cloathed NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. § on the occafion in the fea-otter's fkin ; his body is befmeared with oil, 1788. and daubed with red ochre ; and he is accompanied hy the moft brave, SBPT£MBi adive, and vigorous people in his fervice.' The canoes employed on this occafion are of a fize between their war canoes and thofe they ufe on ordinary occafions ; they are admirably well adapted to the purpofe, and are capable of holding, conveniently, eighteen or twenty men. The harpoons which they ufe to ftrike the whale or any other fea- animal, except the otter, are contrived with no common fkill. The fflaft is from eighteen to twenty-eight feet in length ; at the end whereof is fixed a large piece of bone, cut in notches, which being fpliced to the fflaft, ferves as a fecure hold for the harpoon, which is faftened to it with thongs.—The harpoon is of an oval form, and rendered extremely fflarp at the fides as well as the point;—it is made out of a large mufcle-fhell, and is fixed into another piece of bone, about three inches long, and to which a line is faftened made of the finews of certain beafts, of feveral fathoms in length ; this is again attached to the fflaft; fo that when the fiffl is pierced, the fflaft floats on the water by means of feal-skins filled with wind, or the ventilated bladders of fiffl, which arc fecurely attached to it. The chief himfelf is the principal harpooner, and is the firft that ftrikes the whale.—He is attended by feveral canoes of the fame fize as his own, filled with people armed with harpoons, to be employed as occafion may require. When the huge fiffl feels the fmart of the firft weapon, he inftantly dives, and carries the fflaft with all its bladders along with him. The boats immediately follow his wake, and as he rifes, continue to fix their weapons in him, till he finds it impoffible for him to fink, Kk3i from V O YAG E S TO THE L from the number of floating buoys which are now attached to his body, The whale then drowns, and is towed on fflore with great noife and rejoicings. It is then immediately cut up, when part is dedicated to the feafl which concludes, the day, and the remainder divided among thofe who have fflared in the dangers and glory of it. The taking of the fea-otter is attended with far greater hazard as well as trouble. For this purpofe two very fmall canoes are prepared, in each of which are two expert hunters. The inftruments they employ on this occafion are bows and arrows, and a fmall harpoon. The • latter differs, in fome degree, from that which they ufe in hunting the whale; the fflaft is much the fame, and is pointed with bone; but the harpoon kfelf is of a greater length, and fo notched and barbed, that when it has once entered the fleffl, it is almoft impoffible to extricate it. This is attached to the fflaft by feveral fathoms of line of fufficient ftrength to drag the otter to the boat. The arrows are fmall, and pointed with bone, formed into a fingle barb. Thus equipped, the hunters proceed among the rocks in fearch of their prey. Sometimes they furprife him fleeping on his back, on the furface of the water; and, if they can get near the animal without awakening him, which requires infinite precaution, he is eafily harpooned and dragged to the boat, when a fierce battle very often ertfues between the 'otter and the hunters, who are frequently wounded by the claws and teeth of the animal. The more common mode, however, of taking him is by pur- fuit, which is fometimes continued for feveral hours.—As he cannot remain under water but for a very fhort time, the skill in this chace confifts in direding the canoes in the fame line that the otter takes when under the water, at which time he fwims with a degree of celerity that greatly exceeds that of his purfuers. They therefore feparate, in order to have the better chance of wounding him with their arrows at the 5 mome^ 1 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 26 moment he rifes; though k,often happens that this wary and cunning 178$. animal efeapes from the danger which furrounds him. Smtwimi It has been obferved, in the account already given of the otter, that when they are overtaken with their young ones, the parental affedion fuperfedes all fenfe of danger; and both the male and female defend their offspring with the moft furious courage, tearing out the arrows and harpoons fixed in them with their teeth, and ofeentimes even attacking the canoes. On thefe occafions, however, they aftd their litter never fail of yielding to the power of the hunters. The difficulty of taking the otter might indeed occafion fome degree offurprife at the number of the skj^s; which the natives appear to have in ufe, and for the purpofes of trade. But the circumftance may be eafily accounted for, by t.be■eenftanf exercife of this advantageous occupation : fcarce a day paffes, but numbers are eagerly employed in the purfuit of it. The feal is -alfo an animal very difficult to take, on account of its being able to remain under water. Artifices are therefore made ufe of to decoy him within reach of the boats ; and this is done in general by the means of maiks of wood made in fo exad a refemblance of nature, that the animal takes it for one of his own fpecies, and falls a prey to the deception. On fuch occafions, fome of the natives put on thefe masks, and hiding their bodies with branches of trees as they lie among the rocks, the feals are tempted to approach fo near the fpot, as to put it in the power of the natives to pierce them with their arrows. Similar artifices are employed againft the fea-cow, &c. The otters, as well as fome of the land animals, are, we believe, occafionally taken in. the fame manner. The VOYAGES TO THE The very preparation for the bufinefs of hunting and fifhing, requires no fmall portion of domefeic employment. Their harpoons,' lines, fifh-hooks, bows and arrows, and other implements neeeflary in the different purfuits of peace and war, muft make a very great demand upon their time. Befides, they-contrived to forge the metals they received from -us into various ornaments, after their fafflion, for their favourite wives -or miftreffes. In thefe domeftic operations the boys were always made to give their affiftance, and learn to form the mate-la rials with which they were hereafter to gain their fuftenance and their glory. The ingenuity of thefe people in all the different arts that is necef- fary to their fupport and their pleafure, is matter of juft admiration to the more cultivated parts of the globe. Nature, that fond and bounteous parent to her children of every kind, has left none of them without thofe means which are capable of producing the relative happinefs of all. But the moft laborious, as well as moft curious employment in which we faw the natives of Nootka engaged, (for we had no opportunity of feeing them conftrud one of their enormous houfes,) was the making their canoes ; which was a work of no common fkill and ability. Thefe boats are, many of them, capable of containing from fifteen to thirty men, with eafe and convenience ; and at the fame time are elegantly moulded and highly finiffled ; and this curious work is ac- compliffled with utenfils of ftone made by themfelves. They even manufadured tools from the iron which they obtained from us; and it was very feldom that we could perfuade them to make ufe of any of our utenfils in preference to their own, except the faw, whofe obvious power in diminifhing their labour, led them to adopt it without hefitation. In particular, they, contrived to forge from J NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 2g3 from the iron they procured of us, a kind of tool, which anfwered the purpofe of hollowing out large trees much better than any utenfil we s*PTJ,MBl*' could give them. This bufinefs they accomplifhed by main, ftrength, wkh a flat ftone by way of anvil, and a round one which ferved the purpofe of an hammer ; and with thefe inftruments they fflaped the iron from the fiVe into a tool bearing fome refemblance to a cooper's adze, which they faftened to an handle of wood with cords made of finews ; and being fflarpened at the end, was-extremely well adapted to the ufes for which it was intended- Their Targe war canoes were generally finifhed on the {pot where the trees grew of which they are made ; and then dragged to the water- fide. We have feen fome of them which were fifty-three feet in length, and eight feet in breadth. The middle part of thefe boats is the broadeft,. and gradually narrows to a point at each end ; hut their head or prow is- * generally much higher than the ftern. As their bottoms are rounded and their fides flam out, they have aenfe- quently fufficient bearings, and fwim firmly in the water. They have no feats, but feveral pieces of wood, about three inches in diameter, are fixed- acrofs them, to keep the fides firm, and preferve them from being warped. The rowers generally fit on their hams, but fometimes they make ufe of a. kind of fmall ftool, which is a great relief to them. In the ad of embarking they are extremely cautious, each roan regularly taking the ftation to which he has been accuftomed. Some of thefe canoes are polifhed and painted, or curioufly ftudded with, human teeth, particularly on the ftern and the prow. The fides were fometimes adorned with the figure of a dragon with a long tail, of much the fame form as we fee on the porcelain of China, and in the fanciful paintings of our own country. We were much ftruck wkh this circumftance, and took fome i pains tfit YOYAGESTOTHE 1788. pains to get at the hiftory of it; but it was among many other of our September. enqUJr£es to which we could not obtain any fatisfadory anfwer. After we had been fome time in King George's Sound, the natives began to make ufe of fails made of mats, in imitation of ours. We had, indeed, rigged one of Hanna's large canoes for him, wkh a pendant, &c. &c. of which he was proud beyond) meafure; and he never approached the fflip but he hoifted his pendant, to the very great diverfion of our feamen. The paddles are nicely fliaped and well polifhed with fifh-skin : they . afe-about five feet fix inches in length; and the blade, which is about two feet long, is pointed like a leaf, and the point kfelf is lengthened feveral inches, and is about one broad. At the end of the handle there is a tranfverfe piece of wood like the top of a crutch. Thefe paddles tfeeff natives ufe in a moft dextrous manner, and urge on the canoes with inconceivable fwiftnefs. In no one circumftance of their different occupations do the natives of Nootka difcover more dexterity than In that of fifhing. They however always preferred their own hooks, which were made from fflells, or the bone of fifh, to ours; nor indeed would they ever make ufe of the latter; but our lines they confidered as very fuperior to thofe of their own manufadure. Thefe are made from the finews of the whafejii. j which furnifhes them with the materials of all their different cordage,—I or from fea-weed, which grows on the coaft in great abundance. This is fplit, boiled, and dried, when it forms a very tough and ftrong line. But befides the common pra^icc of angling, they have a very parti*" cular method of taking herrings, fardines, &c. This is managed with a SSck or pole about eighteen feet long, with a blade of twelve or fourteen 1 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, teen inches broad, and fix feet long, on both fides of which are fixed a number of fharp pieces or points of bone, about three inches in length. ! When the ffloal of fiffl appears, they ftrike this inftrument into the water, and feldom fail of bringing up three or four fiffl at every ftroke. We have often feen a fmall canoe nearly filled with herrings &c. in a very fflort time, by this eafy method of fifhing. But, although thefe people are fo dextrous in theirvarlous employments, and fo adive when in a ftate of exertion, they are naturally of an indolent and lazy difpofition ; and would, in general, prefer to idle away their time in the filth of their habitations, than go forth to the honourable and diflinguifhing, as well as neeeflary, duties of killing the whale and hunting the otter. We have oftentimes feen the bufy Callicum obliged to exert his compulfory power to call them from their domeftic indulgence, to throw the harpoon, or let fly the arrow. The women have alfo their appointed occupations. It is their department to clean the fea-otter skins, and flretch them on frames, which they perform with habitual ingenuity. Every branch of culinary fcience, as well as of the houfehold ceconpmy, is likewifa committed to them; and it is among their duties to keep watch during the night, in order to alarm the men in cafe of any fudden incurfion of an enemy.— They not only drefs the provifions for the day, but prepare the ftores for winter fuftenance.—The garments which have been already defcribed as made from the bark of trees, are of female man u fa dure. They alfo colled the wild fruits and efculent plants that are found in the woods, - or take the fflell-fifh, which are in great plenty among the rocks, or on the fea-fide. When the canoes return from theirlittle voyages, they are employed in unlading them of their cargoes, hauling them on the beach, and L 1 covering 265 1788. t66 VOYAGES TO THE 1788. covering them with branches of the pine, as a protedion from September. ^ weatjjer< , Qn aij_ thefe occafions, however, the female flaves take a proportionable fflare of the labour. They have alfo their conjugal and maternal duties; nor fhall we be fo unjuft as not to mention that the women of Nootka are tender mothers and affectionate wives : indeed we have beheld inflances of fondnefs for their children, and regard for their hufbands, which mark the influence of thofe fenfibilkies that form the chief honour of the female charader among the moft poliffled nations of the globe. The fea is the great market to which thefe people refort, and where, as has already been made to appear, a vaft plenty of fiffl of various kinds is purchafed by their labour. According to the beft information we could obtain, the ice on this part of the coaft, feldom or never pre-- eludes them from having accefs to the fea : though the very precautions they ufe in laying up ftores for winter, and the hiftory which Mr. Maccay gives of the diftrefs they fuffered while he was amongft them, is an evident proof that they fometimes undergo very great hardfhips from want of provifions during the cold months. Whatever food is capable of being preferved, they do not fail to prepare for the colder feafons of the year. Even the {pawn of fifh is confidered as a winter {lore, and colleded in the following manner. In the beginning of the fum- mer, they fpiread at the head of the founds and bays, a great quantity of the branches of trees, on which the fpawn of the fiffl naturally incrufts itfelf; when, ast a proper period, it is ftripped off and put carefully into fiffl bladders. This kind of cavear the natives confider as a delicacy both in its-dry and raw ftate. The roe of the falmon is alfo ftoredup in the fame manner ; but they colled it from the fiffl itfelf, which is- feen in autumn al'moft burfting with this favourite article of winter luxury. They eat it as well as all their dried fiffl with oil, and 1 wkhout NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, without any other preparation. As it has been found neeeflary to j mention in other parts of this volume, the different animals thefe people Sef take for food,—for indeed they eat every thing, more or lefs, which they take,—we fhall not add what might be efteemed an unneceffary repetition. A ftate of favage life is univerfally found to be a ftate of warfare; and the Nootka nations are not only in frequent hoflilkies with the more diftant tribes, but even among themfelves ; particularly Wicananiffl and Tatootche. Stratagem and furprife form the offenfive points of their military art ; its defenfive operations, if we may ufe the expreflion, are vigilance and precaution. Their villages, &c. therefore, are generally built in fituations not eafily to be attacked without danger. But they do not truft to any fecurity of fituation ; for in peace as well as in war a continual watch is kept during the night by women, who, fitting round their fires, keep each other awake, by relating the battles of their nation, or recounting the prowefs and gallant deeds of their hufbands and their children. One man alone performs the part of centinel on the outfide of the houfe, where he is placed in fuch a manner as to hear the leaft noife that may be made in the woods, or on the water. •— Indeed, this continual vigilance is.a moft eflential part of their government; as among thefe favage people an opportunity of gaining advantage is oftentimes the fignal for war; and, therefore, they can never be faid to be in a ftate of peace: They muft live in conftant expedation of an enemy, and never relax from that continual preparation againft thofe hoflilkies and incurfions which doom the captivfes to flavery or to death. The chiefs of this country have a cuftom which, as it appears principally to be derived from the wars of the different ftates with each other, may be mentioned with propriety in this place. This cuftom L 1 a confifts ,8 VOYAGESTOTHE 178s. confifts in yielding up their wives to, or interchanging them wkh, each eTEMBER. othg^ ^ beautiful woman will fometimes occafion a war in the defarts of Nootka, as it formerly did in the fields of Troy: a woman is. fometimes found neeeflary to footh a conqueror, or to purchafe a favourable article in a treaty. Indeed, the privileges which" the chiefs poflefs of having as many wives as they preafe, may, perhaps, have arifen from an experience of the political purpofes to which female charms may be applied in peace or in war. We could not, however, but obferve, that in the whole diflrid of Nootka, the women did not appear to bear an equal proportion to the men. To the Northward, on the contrary, the number of females greatly preponderates ; a circumftance which will engage fome degree of curiofity, as it is hereafter defcribed in one of thofe chapters which contain the voyage of the Iphigenia from Samboingan to Nootka Sound. The marriage ceremonies of thefe people confift of nothing more than a feafl given by the friends of the parties. With what rites or forms they confign the dead to their laft abode, we had no opportunity of ob- ferving. We remember to have feen fmall oblong boxes, which contained the dead bodies of children hanging on the branches of trees ; and which, as we underftood, were, after a certain time, taken down and buried; but we rather think this cuftom was peculiar to children, as we never faw the remains of any perfon of full growth in fuch a fituation. Of the religion of thefe people we have no very corred idea ; but fhall relate what we know of thofe principles which conned them with the Deity, and their prefent life with one that is to come. In moft of their houfes they have, as has already been obferved,- certain huge idols or images NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, images, to whom we never faw them pay any mark of common refped, much lefs of worfhip or adoration. Thefe mifhapen figures occupied, as it appeared, fomewhat of a diftinguifhed and appropriate place, wherever we faw them ; but they feemed to have no exclufive privilege whatever, and fflared the common filth of thofe who lived beneath the fame roof with- them. Indeed, we had for fome time, no reafon for fuppofing that they had an idea of a Deity, till we explained to them the caufe of Our fufpenfion from labour on Sunday; and we fflould have quitted America in a total Ignorance, as to any principle of their faith, if the fen of Hanapa, a boy of very uncommon fagacity for a native of Nootka, had hot unfolded to us the following very concife hiftory of their religion; Which, however, is fufficient to prove that they enjoy the common and confolatory belief of the intelledual world in a future and better ftate of exiftence. - "SSI 1788. This difcovery arofe from our enquiries on a fubjed of avery different nature.—On expreffing our wifflto be informed by what means they became acquainted with copper, and why it was fuch a peculiar objed of their admiration,—this intelligent young man told us all he knew, and as we believe all that is known by His nation on the fubjed. Where words were wanting, or not intelligible, which frequently happened in the courfe of his narration, he fupplied the deficiency by thofe expreffive adions which nature or neceffity feems to have communicated to people whofe language is confined ; and the young Nootkan difcovered fo much fkill in conveying his ideas by figns and fymbols, as to render his dif- courfe perfedly intelligible whenever he found it neeeflary to have re- courfe to them. He related his flory in the following manner :— . He firft placed a certain number of flicks on the ground, at fmall diftances fronreach other, to which he gave feparate names. Thus he called 5 the VOYAGES TO THE the firft his father and the next his grandfather : he then took what remained, and threw them all into confufion together; as much as to fay that they were the general heap of his anceftors, whom he Could not individually reckon. He then, pointing to this bundle, faid that when they lived, an old man entered the Sound in a copper canoe, with copper paddles, ' and every thing elfe in his poffeffion of the fame metal :—That he paddled along the fhore, on which all the people were affembled, to contemplate fo ftrange a fight; and that, having thrown one of his copper paddles on .fflore, he himfelf landed. The extraordinary ftranger then told the natives, that he came from the Iky,—to which the boy pointed with his hand,— that their country would one day be deftroyed, when they would all be killed, and rife again to live in the place from whence he came. Our young interpreter explained this circumftance of his narrative by lying- down as if he were dead ; and then, rifing up fuddenly, he imitated the adion of foarlng through the air. He continued to inform us that the people killed the old man, and took his canoe ; and that from this event they derived their fondnefs for copper. He alfo gave us to underftand that the images in their houfes were intended to reprefent the form, and perpetuate the minion of the old man who came from the fky. Such was the imperfed tradition which we received of what may be called the facred hiftory of this country, and on which the inhabitants refted the common hope of the human mind in every ftate and form of pur nature,—that there will be an exiftence hereafter, beyond the reach of fublunary forrow. Thus have we given fuch an account of this people, country, and the cuftoms of it, as occurred to our obfervation. We had not time, even if NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. we had poffeffed the ability, to have purfued the track of the philo- fopher and the naturalift. We had other objeds before us ; and all the knowledge we have obtained was, as it were, accidentally acquired in the purfuit of them. Of the country we had no reafon to complain, and we left Nootka Sound with no fmall ftare of efteem for the inhabitants, of it. 1788. CHAP. S.IPTEMBJU. VOYAGES TO CHAP. XXV. The Felice proceeds on her Voyage.—Alarmed at the Appearance of a Leak.' —Obliged to lighten the Ship.—Arrive of Owhyhee, one of the Sandwich Iflands.—Heave to in Toe-yahyah Bay.—Receive great Quantities of Provifions.— The prefent State of that Ifland.—Prefent in the Name of Tianna to the Chief of it.—The Felice leaves Owhyhee.—Improvement in faking Provifions.—Pafs the Iflands of Mowee, Ranai, Morotoi and Woahoo.— Arrive off Atooi ; the political State of that Ifland.—Proceed to Oneeheow. Friendly Reception at that Place.—Large Quantity of Tarns procured.— Leave a Letter with a confidential Native of this Ifland, for Captain Douglas.—Proceed on the Voyage.—Make the ifland of Botol Tobago Xima. —Round the Rocks of Ville Rete.—Make the Coaft of China.—Anchor in . the Roads of Macao. "\t\T E now return to the progrefs of our voyage.—During the night after we left King George's Sound, it blew with great violence, accompanied by a very heavy, mountainous fea,—the fflip labouring in a unufual manner; when at four in the morning of the 25th, we were alarmed with an account that there was four feet water in the hold; and by eight o'clock the water had not only gained onus, but was got above the ground tier of casks, which made me at firft apprehend that, the fflip, from her exceflive tumbling and rolling, had fprung a dangerous leak. The pumps had been kept conftantly at work, -but after fome' l_—m % NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, fome time, they became fo choaked with the fmall ballaft, as to be no longer in a condition to deliver their water. While the carpenters were repairing them, the crew were employed in baling the water from all the hatch-ways. We continued, however, to purfue our courfe under clofe-reefed top-fails and fore-fail, to the Southward, with the wind from the North Weft, which now blew a violent gale, and the fflip moved heavily and flowly through the fea, from the great quantity of water in her hull. *73 1788. Our alarms were very much encreafed, when we found that at ten o'clock the water continued to baffle all our endeavours. In this fituation, orders were given to bring the fflip to, which was accordingly done under the clofe-reefed main top-fail on the larboard tacks. I was confident as to the ftate and ftrength of the veffel, and therefore gave orders for all the fpars and booms on the lee-fide of the deck to be launched overboard without delay, which was no very eafy bufinefs, from their fize and the rolling and tumbling of the fflip: however, with the affiftance of hatchets and axes, this fide of the deck was effedually cleared ; when the fflip was wore immediately and put on the other tack, and the fame operation was performed on the other fide, which lafted till three o'clock, when the fpars were all launched overboard, and we almoft inftantaneoufly felt a good effed, by the diminution of the water from baling, as the pumps could not be immediately repaired. We now difcovered the caufe of our paft danger to have arifen from the great weight of timber -lodged on the deck, which, with the heavy rolling fea, had opened her feams, and given paffage to fo large a quantity of water. After this operation, however, ffle became light and buoyant, and we purfued our courfe with renewed fpirits and confidence. M m Thus 374 1788. •October; Wednefdayi VOYAGES TO THE Thus we continued, without the intervention of any occurrence worth relating, till the 15th of Odober, which brought us into fine and ferene weather; when being in the latkude of the Eafl-end of the Ifland of Owhyhee, we bore up Weft, to ftrike the ifland on the parallel* Our longitude, by account, was at this time 2050 6f Eaft of Greenwich ; whereas by obfervation of the fun and moon, it was 2090 20'^ There being fuch a material difference, I preferred the lunar obfervation. Thurfdayis On the 16th, by freffl diftances of the fun and moon, and moon and* ftars, we were in the longitude of 2070 44' Eaft, and at noon the ob-» ferved latitude was 200 11' North ; our diftance being about thirty leagues from the ifland of Owhyhee. Friday 17 At five o'clock on the morning of the 17th, to our infinite fatisfac- tion we difcovered land, bearing from Eaft South Eaft, to Weft North Weft, at the diftance of fix leagues: but it was fo very hazy, that the ifland was imperfedly difcerned : in clear weather, the high land of? Owhyhee can be feen at the diftance of twenty leagues. We-had, indeed, good reafon to rejoice at the fight of this ifland, as we were greatly reduced in the article of provifions. We had given fo large a portion of our ftores to the Iphigenia, and our paffage to the iflands not being fo quick as we had expeded, the idea of that plenty, and thofe comforts which, as it were, waited our arrival there, filled every heart with joy and gladnefs. As we approached the ifland of Owhyhee, a perfon who had never vifited this part of the globe, would have feen nothing by which' he could be led to fuppofe that it was the feat of luxurious abundance.— The The high, mountainous appearance of the land, and the bin over it from the fog and vapour, threw fuch a gloom on •75 788. It was too late in the evening to hove to for the night, at about the fflore, and waited with extreme ire ad; we therefore eagues from the On the 18th, at day-br 1 to clofe in with th< :lock; when the late b ' a fcene that might fuk |ie hazinefs of the mornii [ The great mountain, >rth Eaft part of the iflj it were, to be rolling do we bore up, and proceeded under a gentle J, which we accomplifhed about nine and unfriendly profped was fuccecded fablings of poetry and romantic fiction, d not obfeure the varied landfcape before Mouna Kaah, which is fituated on the was cloathed in clouds, which feemed, jts declivity; while its fummit towered ve the vapours, and prefented a fublime objed of nature :—from its p to the fea was a beautiful amphitheatre of villages and plantations, tie the fhore was crouded with people, who, from the cool nefs of the ["iiing, were cloathed in their party-colGiired garments. Some of them e feared on the banks to look at the fflip, while others were running fhe ; the little fandy patches where their canoes are come off to us. We now hove to in the en- Bay, which is fituated on the Weftern fide of ently defended from the violence of the trade- ; before a confiderable number of canoes came ;s, young pigs, taro-root, plantains, fugar-cane, I VOYAGES TO TH1 he fupplies of pork from this ifland, to procure a fufficient quantity of yams In confequence of this determination, occafion, I obferved evolution, a very nei f Owhyhee and thofe In anfwer to his information, I thought proper to inform him that Tianna would fhortly return to Atooi in foch a fhip as mine, and that I had a prefent from him to the fovereign of Owhyhee, which I defired f -would take upon himfelf t» deliver, as a mark of Tiann a's attachment to bis gard, I hoped ^^ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. to perform a good office for my friend; and I have fince underftood that it produced effeds equal to my moft fanguine wiffles. But in order to give certainty to my commiffion, I made my requeft and delivered the prefent before a great"number of the natives, which was alfo publicly tabooed: this arrangement was made in order to prevent the chief from keeping the prefent himfelf, or fubftituting another of inferior value. } -"^"-i" By funfet we had purchafed a fufficiency of freffl provifions to laft us to China; we therefore prepared to make fail, in order to proceed to Atooi and Oneeheow : but the number of the natives, and the women in particular, were fo great, not only covering the decks, where there was any room, but even clinging to the rigging, that we were under the neceffity of bribing them with prefents of fome kind or other to procure their departure. Some of the women took to their canoes, but the greater part plunged into the fea, and fwam to the fflore.—The fflip was no fooner cleared of its vifitors, than it began to blow very freffl, when - the top-fails were reefed, and we flood under an eafy fail for the ' ifland of Mowee. We now immediately fet to work in killing the hogs, and faking', down the meat for fea-flore. We followed the mode prefcribed by Cap- - tain Cook, who would deferve the gratitude of his country, of every maritime people, and of humanity at large, if his difcoveries had been • confined even to thofe improvements he made in the interior government of fhips and their crews. According to his diredions, we felted down feveral casks of the fineft pork in the world, which I am convinced would have kept to any length of time that it was poffible for a fhip to want it. We however made fome fmall improvement, which confifted VB VOYAGES TO THE in preferving the pork of a middle fize, with the bones in it; but with the larger hogs we did not find an equal degree of fuccefs. For this purpofe the bone muft be in a great meafure, but not entirely, feparated from the meat, fo as to permit the fait to penetrate well to thofe parts of the fleffl which remain attached to the bone. We alfo found that fait alone, placed in layers, anfwered better than pickle; and we remarked that not only the heat of the fun was unfavourable to this operation, but that the moon poffeffes alfo a putrefying influence. Light winds prevented our reaching Atooi until the 23d at noon, when we anchored in Wymoa-bay. As we paffed by the other iflands, canoes continually came off to us with young pigs and fugar-canes, which gave , us an opportunity of completing our flock of the latter. It was indeed fortunate that we had laid In our ftores of freffl provifions at Owhyhee-; as, on paffing by Mo wee, Ranai, Morotoi, and Woahoo, not one large hog was brought off to us :—In all probability there was not fufficient time for that purpofe as the fflip was paffing.—At Woahoo, indeed, we j underftood that the hogs, for fome reafon or other, of which we were not informed, were at that time under the taboo.,—a kind .of religious. inJ ;terdidion.. We had no fooner eaft anchor in Wymoa-bay than it began to "blow*! fo very ftrong as to prevent any canoes from coming off to the fflip.— Indeed I had no other motive for flopping here but to inform Taheo, the fovereign of it, that his brother Tianna would fhortly return, and- to make him fuch prefents, and take fuch meafures as might be of fervice to the chief, on his arrival at his native country, which had been for' feme time in a ftate of diftradion, from the tyranny of its prefent government , During NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. During the whole of this day not a canoe appeared ; but in the morning of the 24th, though it continued to blow very freffl, a canoe came off with two men and a girl: they brought a fmall pig and fome cocoa- nuts ; nor was I a little furprized when the two men, on entering the fflip, began to embrace my knees, and to cry out Noota, Noota; the name, as I have already obferved, by which I was known in thefe iflands, as well as on the American coaft. They then burft into tears,- and enquired after Tianna. From thefe people I learned that Taheo, growing infirm, fuffered' himfelf to be entirely governed by Abinui, who has been already men-- tioned in the memoir of our firft voyage, and was the deadly foe of Tianna. Namaate-haw, another brother of Tianna's, and who was efteemed,. after, him, the braveft warrior of the Sandwich Iflands, had fled with his brother's wife and children to a diftant part of the ifland, to efcape from the cruel power of Taheo ; and that fome part of their force was • at this time in arms. It was, therefore, a very natural meafure for Taheo to forbid all communication between his fubjeds and us, as he believed that we had brought back Tianna again ; and an inhuman profcription had been publifhed, threatening him with inftant death, if he fflould land on that ifland. But notwkhftanding the taboo, thefe faithful people had ventured to come off to us, in order to inform Tianna, - whom they fuppofed'to be on board our fhip, of his danger.-r-Befides - the artlefs manner in which thefe men told their ftory, other circumftances concurred to convince us of the truth of it. No canoes vifited us, and we heard the conchs refoundiug from-thediftant hills,-—a cer- - tain prelude of war. Situated as 'we were, and without any other communication with the ifland but that which the zeal of thefe two. men had led them to rifque u 28o VOYAGESTOTHE 1788. rifque from a principle of affedion, we could only, by their means, October. 'infotm Tianna's wife and brother of the approaching arrival of that chief, who would fflortly return in a fituation to fupport them and himfelf againft the unnatural proceedings of their tyrannic brother, and his inhuman minifter. This confolatory and encouraging intelligence they undertook to deliver, wkh certain prefents, to Namaate-haw, and the wife of Tianna ; and having received fuch as were provided for themfelves, they took an hafty leave, and paddled fwiftly to the fflore. Till the 25th at noon, we remained in expedation of receiving fome intelligence from the ifland ; when not feeing a fingle canoe in motion, we weighed, and proceeded to Oneeheow, where we anchored about fix o'clock in the evening, nearly in the fame pofition which we had occupied in the preceding year. On arriving off this ifland we did not experience the operations of any prohibition againft us ; on the contrary, we were furrounded by a crowd of natives, among whom were many of our old friends, whom we perfedly recolleded, fo that the fhip was very fflortly filled with vifitors of all ages and both fexes. But among feveral who exprefled their joy to fee us, and who retained the remembrance of our kindnefs to them, was that affediofiate iflander to whom feme of our officers had formerly given the well-known, and I may add, honourable appellation of Friday; and if any of the companions of my former voyage fflould perufe this page, they, I am fure, will recoiled with fomewhat of a grateful remembrance, the friendly and faithful fervices of honefl Friday. Thofe fervices he now repeated; indeed, .on the firft fight of the fflip, he fwam off to make an .offer of them, and they proved of the utmoft importance to us. W« J NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. We had at this time neither bread or flour on board, and depended on procuring a quantity of yams fufficient to fupply our Wants during the remainder of the voyage. But as this was not the feafon for them, and-they were too young to be dug up, we fhould have found it a matter of great difficulty to have obtained a fufficient quantity, if our friend Friday had not undertaken the important"negotiation. We,, therefore, provided him with fuch articles as were the moft likely to forward our purpofes ; and, by his influence and perfeverance, aflifted with the bribes in his poffeffionj he perfuaded many of his friends to dig up the largefl yams they could find, and bring them to market; fo that we at length obtained feveral tons of thefe moft neeeflary provifions by the morning, of the 27th ; and at noon we prepared to put to fea. I am really at a lofs how to defcribe the very marked concern, both in words and looks, that the inhabitants of this ifland exprefled, when they were informed of our approaching departure.. Friday, however, remained to the laft, and with him I entrufteda letter to Captain Douglas, with the ftrideft injundlon to deliver it into his own hands, whenever he fflould arrive; which commiffion he readily undertook, and • faithfully performed, as wkT appear in that part of the Iphigenia's voyage which relates to the Sandwich Iflands. The fubjed of this-.letter was to inform Captain Douglas of the political ftate of Atooi, and to ■> recommend fuch arrangements refpeding Tianna, as might tend to re- inftate him in his rights, or place him where he might be fecure from « the menaced injuries of his unnatural brother. Nor was. Friday forgotten, whofe fidelity and attachment were-already known to Captain Douglas, . who was an officer on board my fhip during, our firft voyage. I now prefented that good fellow with fuch articles as I well knew would afford ' him the fatisfadion he deferved ; when, after fecuringthem in his maro, which is a cloth that thefe people wear round their middle, he plunged ■ N n. into»* VOYAGES TO THE into the fea; and as he fwam towards the fflore, from time to time turned his head towards us, and waved one hand, while he buffetted the billows with the other. The wind blew freffl from the Eaft North Eaft, when we weighed anchor, and very foon loft fight of the ifland of Oneeheow. We now purfued our voyage ; and nothing occurred fufficlently inte- refting to merit a relation, until the 16th of November, when by feveral obfervations of the fun and moon, and the moon and ftars, our longitude was 1460 54' Eaft of Greenwich, and the obferved latitude 210 4' North. —At this time we feldom ran lefs than fifty leagues a day, with very moderate and pleafant weather. Our chief occupation, independent of the neeeflary attention to the courfe of the fflip, was to dry and air the skins ; a certain number being every day got up, fpread in the fun, and then re-packed in the casks. In performing this bufinefs, we had the fatisfadion to find that very few of thefe furs were damaged ; which fortunate circumftance we attributed to our great care in feeing them packed in dry'casks, and keeping them fe- cure from all damp. On the 19th of November, we, for the firft time, experienced fome alteration in the wind. It blew ftrong from the Weft ; though it did not remain long in that quarter, but veered all round the compafs ; when k at length fettled in the Weftern quarter, and blew fo verv hard, that we were obliged to lay to. This gale fplit our main top-fail, and did not fubfide till the following day, when it veered again to the Eaft, and we purfued our courfe. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. It now became a matter of very neeeflary attention to make prepara- j~8g tion for thofe tempeftuous feas which we were about to enter. The old Novembi fails were accordingly unbent, and a new fuit brought to the yards ; for it is well known to thofe who are acquainted with the navigation of the China feas, that a paffage to Canton often depends on the goodnefs of a top-fail or a courfe. The change of the Monfoons, indeed, was over ; yet even after: that dangerous period, very violent gales of wind prevail in thefe feas ; nor does the North Eaft monfoon, which had now taken its turn, acquire that fteadinefs which precludes all danger, till the month of December. The wind did not fixfteadily in the Eaftern quarter till the 21ft, which Friday alteration I attributed to.our near vicinky to the Ladrone Iflands, which are known, at times, to alter the current of the trade-winds. Decembi We continued our courfe, without any material occurrence, till the Monday ill of December ; when in the evening of that day, we made the iflands of Botol Tobago Xima. The weather was very dark, hazy and un- pleafant; nor could we get more than a glimpfe, as it were, of thefe iflands, which however proved fufficient for us to afcertain them. By our lunar obfervations,. brought forward, we were fix leagues to the Eaft when we made them. 283 The neceffky of making thefe iflands has been mentioned in that part of the voyage which treats of the various routes into the China Seas from the Pacific Oceart. The fight of them which- we had obtained was,. however, fufficient to juftify our running during the night; and as there is no other but the iflet, named Little Botol, to the Eaftward of• them-, we were fatisfied as to its identity; and accordingly bore up tocleaE the dangerous- rocks of Ville Rete, which we eftimat-ed to bear- Nni South, L V O YAG E S TO THE South Weft by Weft, thirteen leagues from this ifland. The clouds were uncommonly black, and the night had every appearance of bringing ftorm and tempeft along with it. About eight o'clock, our expedations were verified, as it began to blow very violent from the North Eaft, with heavy rain. We, however, purfued our courfe, fleering South Weft, which is a point more Southerly than the rocks bore off us. Indeed, I am clearly of opinion that a fflip in this fituation, has no alternative but running ; for if ffle is hove to, the violent and rapid currents might drift her fo far to the Southward^ —in addition to her natural drift, occafioned by the wind and fea,—that her entrance into the China Seas would become very dangerous ; and, of .courfe, her paflage to Canton be rendered very uncertain. For though it may be by no means a defirable circumftance to run in a dark and tempeftuous night through this narrow channel, yet I do not hefitate to.advife it in the ftrongeft manner, if the iflands of Botol Tobago Xima have been feen at any time during the preceding evening. The ftorm continued, with unabating violence, till twelve o'clock i during which time, we purfued our courfe to the South Weft, under clofe reefed top fails and forefail, and hauled our wind to the Weft North Weft, with as much wind as the fhip could well bear her courfes, having as we fuppofed, entered the China Seas. At one o'clock it blew with fuch encreafing violence, that we could very ill carry the fail we had aboard ; but let the confequences have been what they might, it was indifpenfably neeeflary to proceed in this manner, in order to fecure our paffage to Canton, the wind hanging as it did fo far to the Northward. At midnight our latitude, by eftimation, was 21° 30' North, which was as near as we could, with any degree of prudence, round the dangerous NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, gerous rock of Ville Rete : and, at one o'clock, when we hauled up, we 178! experienced fuch an heavy fea, that it became impoflible for us to Ileer DECEMi an higher courfe to the Northward than Weft by North, though the wind was at North North Eaft : at leaft we could not take any other courfe which would not have prevented the fhip from going through the fea. Befides, as we had reafon to fear an oppofing current, we were not without apprehenfions as to our paffage to Canton. On the 2d of December, at day break, there was no- appearance of Tuefdaj land.—We had, therefore, every reafon to believe that we were confi- derably advanced in the China Sea; but our-apprehenfions of being driven to the leeward of Canton did not entirely fubfide till the 3d, when the wedneft -weather moderated, aud the wind veered to the North Eaft. At noon, our latitude was 2a0 7' North, which evidently proved that we had not experienced any unfavourable current. We now hauled up North Weft by Weft, in order to make the coaft of China. On the 4th, the long expeded land of China appeared, and we beheld Thurfa a fight of the moft pleafing novelty to us, which was compofed of innumerable fiffling-boats difperfed over the fea. We paffed by many of them ; but they are fo well acquainted with European {hipping of the largeft fize, that they did not fuffer their attention to be in any degree interrupted by fo fmall a veffel as the Felice. As the China coaft is already fo well known, I fhall not delay the con- clufion of my voyage by any obfervation, but proceed to relate that we purfued our courfe during the 4th ; when, in the evening, the Lema Ifles were difcovered at about the diftance of four leagues, As I was already acquainted with this navigation, we continued our courfe during the night between thofe ifles, which is, beyond all comparifon, the beft paffage; 285 i .1788; VOYAGES TO THE paffage ; and in the evening of the following day, we happily anchored in the roads of Macao, the town bearing North North Weft, at the diftance of three leagues ; when an exprefs was immediately forwarded to Canton, to inform our friends of the fafe arrival of the Felice. And here I muft take leave of the reader, yvhofekind attention has followed me through this long and various voyage ; and of which, indeed, as the two fhips were obliged to feparate at Samboingan, I may be faid '^Myhto have performed a part. — The fflare which Captain Douglas had in it will be related in the following chapters. m gp F ■/ /<. If* !,l d. ! ' mmmmmmmmm*** ■■■■■■. ■ ■■ Drawn on, th& Spofi, gf T. S.Tarry, T.sy ? J. JPiffj dlanas Tjfsc e. PubfafcA as Ch&slct- direct?, 6j> J, 7Pkfoer,j.$$ jfiixzu&It)' Aug. i 3y$o. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. V O Y A G E OF THE IPHIGENIA, CAPT- DOUGLAS, FROM SAMBOINGAN, TO THE NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. CHAP. XXVI. The Felice departs from Samboingan.—The fubfequent ConduSl of the Governor to Captain Douglas.—Part of the Crew confined, and the Ship detained by his Orders.—His unwarrantable ConduSl.—The Iphigenia fails from Samboingan.-,—Arrives off a fmall Ifland, now named Johnfione's Ifland.—Communication with the Natives, and a Defcription of them.— Tawnee, a Sandwich Iflander, on board the Iphigeni a, falls fick and dies. Sicknefs of the Crew.—Pafs through the Pelew Iflands.—Communication with the Natives.—An affebting Circumftance, unknown to Captain Douglas. T N the narrative of the former voyage it has been related, that on the -*• 12th of February the Felice left the Iphigenia at Samboingan, preparing to take on board her fore-maft, and then to proceed on her voyage.—The caufes which occafioned the feparation of the two fhips have already been mentioned ; and the orders delivered to Captain Douglas on the occafion, are inferted in the Appendix. The following pages, therefore, contain the voyage of the Iphigenia, after ffle was left by her confort, IL *s7 2S8 VOYAGESTOTHE 1788. confort; which, we have reafon to think, will be found to contain fome February. imp0rtant information relative to the geography and commerce of the ' North Weft Coaft of America. The Felice was no fooner failed from Samboingan, than the governor of the place aflumed a very improper and ungenerous mode of condud towards the fflip that remained. The divifion of our force had encouraged him, as we fuppofe, to fome unwarrantable proceedings, which fflortly ended in a rupture on both fides, to the great injury of the proprietors. The Iphigenia had received her maft on board and was ready for fea Tnefdayig on the 19th. She had alfo obtained feveral bags of rice, a quantity of vegetables, and fome cattle from the governor. As we had been informed that the moft acceptable prefent we could make to the governor in return for his civilities and attentions to us, would be a few bars of iron, I accordingly left fix bars with Captain Douglas, defiring him to add as many more, to compofe the intended compliment, and to draw bills on Canton for the amount of any expences which might have been requifite for the fflip and her crew. Captain Douglas accordingly waited on the governor, and invited him to dine on board the Iphigenia, previous to her departure. The invitation was accepted, and the entertainment paffed off, to all appearance, with the moft perfed fatisfadion to all parties. In the evening I the company adjourned, by the governor's invitation, to a ball on fflore. I But under the guife of polkenefs and hofpitalky, the fubtle Spaniard I was watching to take any advantage in his power; and on difcovering I that the principal part of the cargo confifted of iron, he. turned his thoughts to the acquifition of that valuable metal;—valuable indeed it 1 might I NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, might be called, for it purchafes gold at Magindanao.—The King of Spain has prohibited this article from being fold throughout the Philippines by any perfon whatever, except his own commiflioners, who take care to make it a matter of very coftly purchafe : the governor was, therefore, determined to feize the prefent favourable opportunity of procuring it on the very advantageous terms he conceived to be in his power. So that when an officer was fent on fflore the following day to fettle the - account,—which did not, we believe, amount to more than two hundred and fifty dollars,—the governor at once threw off the maflc, and not only declared that the whole of his demand fhould be paid in iron, but that he would fix the price, and arrange the weights according to-his own pleafure. Such was the anfvver which the officer was going to take back, when lie and his boat's crew were arrefted by a file of foldiers, and conveyed to a dungeon. The continuing delay of this officer's return, induced Captain Douglas to fend another boat on fhore to learn the caufe of his detention ; when the fecond party fflared the fate of the firft. At the fame time the governor fent off a large proa, with fifty men, to take poffeffion of the fhip ; and had not Captain Douglas been alarmed for the con'fequences to his people on fflore, as well as to fome of them who were placed in a confpicuous part of the boat, he would certainly have funk her; which might have been done without much difficulty. He, however, thought it beft to let this armed force approach without any interruption, and to fuffer the Spanifh foldiers to come quietly on board and take poffeffion of the fflip. In confequence of thefe very extraordinary proceedings, Captain Douglas went on fhore himfelf, to enquire into the caufe of them : when the governor informed him that his fole objed was to fecure the payment O o of VOYAGES TO THE. of his bill in iron; and that the fflip fflould not be fuffered to depart till the iron was landed. It was in vain' to reprefent that he had himfelf engaged, on their firft arrival, to take bills for whatever they might wifh to purchafe. It was fruitlefs to urge the cruelty and injuftice of invading the cargo of a veffel which had come in an affured confidence to his port, and by which the principal advantages of her voyage might be loft :—He was too determined in his bafenefs to liften to thefe fuggeftions; and Captain Douglas was obliged to return on board, and order feventy-eight bars of iron on fflore, which was nearly half his cargo, together with one hundred and twenty dollars, which he colleded in the fflip. But the bufinefs was not yet finiffled ;—for the governor was very peremptory in his affurances that he would be abfolutely paid in nothing but iron.— To fuch an exaggerated impofition Captain Douglas refufed to fubmit r and threatened, in the moft ferious manner, if the governor perfifled in his unwarrantable defigns, that he would throw the fflip on his hands. This refolution brought the Spaniard to reafon, who confented at length- to receive the iron and the dollars, and gave orders to withdraw the foldiers from the fflip : he neverthelefs contrived to retard their departure till Captain Douglas had fent him fome wine, which he had previoufty promifed him; and it was not before he had received this trifling pre- , fent that he releafed the people from their confinement. Such was the condud of the governor of Samboingan : but, indeed, no other treatment was to be expeded ; as it is well known by every commercial nation, that the fubjeds of his Catholic Majefty, difperfed through India, are the refufe of mankind. It was, therefore, the 22d of February before the Iphigenia departed. On that day ffle weighed anchor and put to fea, without expending a grain of powder to do honour to fuch : difhonourable people. ' - On 1 J NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 291 On the ift of March the Iphigenia had made a very inconfiderable pro- 1788. grefs on her voyage. She had been retarded by light and variable winds ; - f^™' 1 while the numerous iflands which ffle hourly faw and approached, made the navigation not only difficult but tedious, as ffle was obliged to proceed with the utmoft care and precaution. On the 2d of March, ffle fell in with a very dangerous reef of rocks, Sunday z which extend Eaft and Weft nearly ten miles. Thefe rocks bear no place on any of the charts we had in our poffeffion, and are out of the water about the fize of a fflip's hull. The centre of them lies in the latitude of 40 io' North, and longitude, by feveral lunar obfervations, of 1260 39' Eaft of Greenwich. In the pofition which the fflip occupied, there was a ftrong current fettlng to the South Eaft. They continued their couife amidft this archipelago of rocky iflets till the 6th; when at noon of that day, the latitude was 3° 45' North, Thurfday s and the longitude 1290 y' Eaft. The variation of the compafs was *° 15' Weft. As they were proceeding to the Northward and Eaftward on the oth of March, a fmall ifland appeared bearing Eaft half North, at the Sunday % diftance of about ten or twelve leagues. They continued {leering up with it till nine at night, when obferving a great number of lights on the fflore, Captain Douglas imagined that they were kept burning in order to induce the fflip to flop. At eleven o'clock, k being confidered as hazardous to run during the night, which was very dark, the fflip was hove to, but no foundings could be obtained with fifty fathoms of line.—At break of day on the 10th, they made fail to clofe in with Monday I9 the land, when feveral canoes were feen approaching. They therefore again hove to, in order to permit the natives of the ifland to come on O02 board.—j VOYAGES TO THE board.—For fome time they kept at a certain diftance, holding up cocoa-nuts in their hands ; but they no fooner faw the hatchets which were expofed to their view in return, than the Iphigenia was favoured with an immediate vifit. From the whole of their condud, it very evidently appeared that they had never before beheld, fuch an objed as that which now engrafted all their regard, as it called forth their utmoft aftonifflment; and from the very great indifference with which they promifcuoufly received every thing that was offered to them, it feemed as if the fflip alone was the objed of their attentioj^»~ It was Intended that the Iphigenia fflould remain off this ifland for a day, in order to get a fupply of water, of which they were informed by the natives there was great abundance. In the afternoon the canoes returned with more cocoa-nuts and taro-root, and the inhabitants feemed to have learned, fince their laft vifit, the value of iron; as they now would take nothing but Owafhee, Owafhee, which is their word for that metal. They were entire ftrangers to fire-arms ; for on one of them ex- prefling a wiffl to have a piftol, Captain Douglas difcharged it;—which alarmed him to fuch a degree, that when it was held towards him, he kiffed the barrel, but could not be perfuaded to lay hold of it. This Ifland, which was now named Johnftone's Ifland, lies in the latitude of 30 1i' North, and in the longitude of 1310 12' Eaft. It confifts of low land covered wkh verdure, and cocoa-trees, and is about a league in circumference. One tree in particular rifes above the reft, and appears at a diftance like a fflip under fail.—What the ifland produces, befides cocoa-nuts and the taro-root, was not difcovered, as the inhabitants brought nothing to barter but thofe articles.—The natives did not ap? pear to exceed the number of two hundred, and are a flout, robuft people. Their canoes, which held twelve or fourteen of them, were exadly 1 up NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, exadly the fame as thofe of the Sandwich Iflands ; and the people not only difplayed the fame adivity in the water as the Sandwich Iflanders, but made ufe of feveral expreflions which Tianna readily underftood. A fine breeze fpringing up, Captain Douglas gave up his defign of taking in water at this ifland, and continued his courfe to the Eaftward. The Iphigenia proceeded in her voyage with very little variation of weather, till the 16th ; when Tawnee, a Sandwich. Iflander, from his watchful care and anxiety during Tianna's illnefs, was now fick himfelf. Several of the crew were alfo in the fame fituation ; and the firft officer, who had been ill upwards of a month, was not yet recovered ; and there ■ was every reafon to fear a general ficknefs throughout the fflip. Tianna was now entirely recovered, and owed the re-eftablifhment of his health to the Peruvian bark, which operated almoft miraculoufly upon the chief of Atooi. The latitude from obfervation was 20 o'North, and the longi-- tude 1360 48' Eaft. The poor amiable iflander at length baffled all the care which was bellowed upon him.—A continual bleeding at the nofe was the firft fymptom ; and when that flopped, a fever fucceeded, which feemed for fome fflort time to yield to the bark; but the diforder at length triumphed, and Tawnee was the vidim. About one o'clock, on the 23d, he quitted this-world, and was eonfigned, with the regret of every one on board,- to a watery grave. From a continuance of light and variable winds, with occafional calms, - the Iphigenia advanced but very flowly on her voyage : It was therefore- determined^ the 28th, particularly as the fieknefs on board feemed rather to increafe, to take every advantage of getting to the Northward. The fflip was therefore put on the other tack, and though-fhe did not make V O YAG E S TO THE make better than a North Weft, and fometimes a North Weft by Weft courfe, ftill it was better than continuing under that which had been attended with fuch difcouraging circumftances. i On the 29th, they had light airs and calms, with frequent fqualls of -rain ; on the 30th there was a moderate breeze from the Northward and Eaftward, accompanied alfo with fqualls and rain, which continued to prevail through feveral fucceeding days. On the 31ft, the wind varied from North Eaft to Eaft North Eaft; and fometimes North North Eaft ;—and, as they wer.e approaching a groupe of iflands, called the Carolines, Captain'Douglas gave orders to bend the beft bower and ftream cables, and to keep a very ftrid lookout, as there would be great danger in fqually, thick weather, and at the change of the moon, among a heap of low iflands which had never been accurately furveyed. It was thought neeeflary therefore to run every rifk to get to the Northward, in order to obtain variable winds, and to get as foon as poffible from a vertical fun, and into more tempe- On the 2d of April, a frefli breeze fprung up from the Northward and Eaftward, with fqualls and heavy rain ; but about ten o'clock in the morning the clouds difperfed, and from the medium of feveral very good diftances of the fun and moon, the longitude was 1340 36' Eaft of Greenwich, and the obferved latitude y° 25' North. On the 3d, they had a fine breeze, with clear weather: at half paft four in the afternoon faw land ; and at fun-fet its extremities bore from Weft South Weft to Weft by North, djiftant about feven or eight leagues. As the Iphigenia began to be in want of wood, and in the hope of NORTH WEST COAST OF AME of obtaining roots, of fome kind or other, as well as cocoa-nuts, Captain Douglas determined to take this opportunity of fupplying the fhip. Accordingly, at eight in the evening, orders were given to fhorten fail, and heave the main-topfail to the maft. At day-break on the 4th, two low iflands were feen, covered with trees; bearing North Weft by Weft, at the diftance of feven or eight leagues. The land obferved the preceding evening, now bore Weft South Weft, at the diftance of ten or twelve leagues. As the latter appeared to be high land, and of confiderable extent, it was-confidered as the moft likely to afford fome place of fflelter and fecurity ; but on a nearer approach, it was difcovered to confift of a clufter of iflands ; they therefore hauled their wind and flood for the two low iflands.. At feven in the evening feveral canoes were feen coming from them towards the fhip.—When they came alongfide, they were prefented with a fmall hatchet and two or three knives, which they took, and gave in return thek whole cargoes, which confifted of nothing but two or three pieces of taro and a few cocoa-nuts.—In addreffing themfelves to the people in the fflip, they appeared to repeat the words Englifh and Moore,* which were naturally fuppofed to allude to myfelf, as it was then imagined that I had pafled through thefe iflands, and in my paflage had i obtained fome communication with the natives. As there was no poflibility of approaching the South Eaft fide of either of thefe iflands, they flood to the Northward, in order to get round a reef of rocks,., and to examine the North Weft fide of the largeft of thefe iflands; but on advancing towards it, reef appeared within reef, and from * Or probably Mora mey, which fig.nifies in the Pelew language, Come to nut* - VOYAGES TO THE from the maft-head, a range of rocks were feen, extending to the Northward-and Weftward as far as the eye could reach.—The rock they were endeavouring to weather, was now about a league under their lee ; they therefore hauled their wind to the North. Several canoes ftill followed the fflip clofe, and, for a few nails, which were lowered over the ftern in a baflcet, a return was made of an inconfi- derable number of cocoa-nuts.—The people in one of the canoes were indeed difpofed to play the rogue, and when they had got poffeffion of the nails, refufed to make any fatisfadion. Captain Douglas therefore fired a mufket over their heads, when every one of them leaped inftantly overboard, and remained under the lee of their canoe ; while thofe inthe other canoes, as if they felt themfelves proteded by their innocence, did not difcover any figns whatever of terror or apprehenfiou. "One of fhefe boats continued to follow the Iphigenia for a long time, and one of the people cried out, from time to time,. Eeboo, Eeboo, and exerted himfelf to the utmoft in making figns for them to go back.— Indeed, when he perceived that all his endeavours were vain to perfuade them to return, his adions bore the appearance of a man in the moft frantic diftrefs.—After fome time they obferved another canoe, containing at leaft twenty men, paddling towards them. At firft they imagined that there were fome Europeans on board, and accordingly hove to; but • when it was difcovered that there were none but Indians, they immediately made fail, as the fflip was drifting faft towards the rocks under her lee :—the canoe however overtook them, and the people in her difcovered the fame eager anxiety with the other natives for the return of the fflip; but as ffle was at this time in a dangerous fituation, very ] . little attention was paid to the crying and continued entreaties of the iflanders. Captain j NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Captain Douglas was now among the Pelew Iflands; a particular knowledge and admirable defcription of which, we owe to the fenfibilky and talents of Mr. Keate—The account of them written by that gentleman, from the information of Captain Wilfon, and other perfons belonging to the Antelope packet, which was wrecked on the rocks that •furround them, has been fo generally read, that I may fpeak of the circumftances which conned it with this page, as a matter of univerfal information.—Captain Douglas was ignorant that the Antelope had been loft here ; and that her crew on one of thefe iflands built a veffel, in which they returned to China. He therefore could not know that his countrymen had received every aid, comfort, and kindnefs which thefe hofpitable iflanders could afford ; and that the fovereign of them had e&trufted his fon to" the care of Captain Wilfon, to return with him to England, to be inftruded in the arts and manners of our country. Had he been acquainted with thefe interefting occurrences, there is no doubt but his humanity would have exerted kfelf to the utmoft, in order to contrive fome further communication with them ;—for who can have the leaft doubt but that the canoes which followed the Iphigenia were fent to receive Lee Boo; or at leaft, to hear fome intelligence concerning him ; and that the native who has been defcribed as calling after the fflip, and employing the moft frantic adions, when he found that he called in vain, was anyfother than Abba Thulle, the father of the young prince, agitated by the moft poignant fen fa tions of difappoint- ment and defpak. *97 1788. As no attention" whatever had been then paid by the Eaft India Company to Abba Thulle, for the kind and humane treatment afforded by him to the crew of their fhip the Antelope, he may be fuppofed to have been fuffering, for too long a time, the alternate impreflions of hope and P p fear. 1 VOYAGES TO THE fear.—It may therefore- be conceived what his feelings were, when he firft faw the diftant fails of the Iphigenia whiten in the fun. It may alfo be imagined with what hafte his canoe was launched from the heach to bear him to the fhip, and how fwiftly ffle was driven on to receive, as he might hope,, a fon, who was returned with the various knowledge and attainments of Europe, to adorn and improve his own country.—But it is difficult to conceive, as it would be impoffible to de- feribe, what fuch a mind as his muft feel, when the Iphigenia proceeded on her way, and the people on board, occupied in avoiding the furrounding dangers, were as inattentive to his diftrefs, as they were ignorant of the caufe of it.—We muft, however, be contented to fympathize with the afflidion of this amiable chief, as he returned in melancholy difappoint- ment to his ifland, — and continue to accompany the Iphigenia on her deftined-eourfe. At noon they had a very good obfervation, when the latitude was 8° 20' North ; the bearings of the different iflands were as follow: the largeft of the two iflands, which Captain Douglas named Moore's Ifland, in honour of his friend Mr. Hugh Moore, bore South by Eaft, half Eaft, diftant about five or fix leagues; - two others, that were low and fandy, and which he named Good Look-out Iflands, bore Weft South Weft, half South, diftant three or four leagues.—From the former to the latter is a reef of rocks, which runs in a North Weft diredion, to the diftance of eleven or twelve leagues, and. extends five leagues to the North of the other two.. At one o'clock In the afternoon they founded, and found that they were in eight fathom water;. as the current fet them to the Weftward, they flood on, being apprehenfive, if they went, on the other tack, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, tack, that they fflould risk the being driven down on the reef, which was at this time on their lee-beam ; they therefore kept the lead going ; and as the water was clear to the bottom, people were ordered to the maft-head to give notice of any immediate danger, which mi<riit be eafily avoided, as the fea was fmooth, and the day remarkably clear. At half paft two Moore's Ifland bore South by Eaft, diftant fifteen leagues; and till fix in the evening the foundings .were from eight to twenty fathoms, over large rocks. The lead was kept going every half hour during the night, without finding any bottom ; and in the morning they had a fteady breeze, having got clear of all the rocks and fhoals which they met with in thofe unknown feas.—As they had feveral good obfervations of the fun and moon the day before they made land, they were able to determine the latitude and longitude of Moore's Ifland, as well as of the reefs and fhoals that extended to the Northward of it.—At noon, on the 3d, the latitude by obfervation was 8° 26" North; Moore's Ifland then bearing South by Eaft half Eaft, diftant five leagues. Good Look-out Iflands bore at the fame time Weft South Weft half South, diftant three leagues ; fo that the former lies in the latitude of 8° (f North, and longitude, reduced by the log, 1340 6' Eaft; and the latter are in the latitude of 8° 13' North, and the longitude 1330 58", The great ffloal extendjLto the Northward as far as 8° 45';—to the Eaft- ward 1340 13'? and to thl Weftward as far as the eye could reach from the maft-head, ffloal-water was vifible; which, in all probability, runs as far as the longitude of 133° 30' Eaft. During the night no foundings were obtained with fifty fathoms of line. At eight in the morning, being in the latitude of Los Martines, they bore up a couple of points, in order, if poffible, to get fight of it P p 2 by VOYAGES TO THE 1 by noon;—but as there was no appearance of land, Captain Douglas hauled his wind, chufing rather to fubmk to the inconvenience which might arife from the want of wood, than risk his arrival on the coaft of America too late in the feafon. He therefore no longer thought of looking for an harbour among a groupe of iflands where,, perhaps, no harbour of fufficient fhelter and protedion was to be found. Ift CHAP. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, CHAP. XXVII. See the Iftand of Amluk.—See Land, which is mifiaken for Trinity Ifland. —A moft violent Gale. — Defcription of the Land.—See the Ifland of Kodiak.—See Trinity Ifland.—Arrive off the latter.—Viftted by two Canoes. —Send the Jolly-boat on Shore with an Officer, to try for Fifh, which returned with a fmall Quantity procured from the Natives.—See Cape Gre- isille.—Pafs the Barren Ijlands.—Receive a Vifit from a Ruffian and fome ■ Kodiak Hunters.—Run up Cook's River.—Communication with the Natives. —Difpatch the Long-boat up the River.—Infiruclions to the Officer who commanded her.—Long-boat returns.—The Iphigenia weighs Anchor and drops down the River.—Steer to the South-end of Montagu Ifland.—Stand in for Snug-corner Bay.—Several Canoes come off to the Ship.—Difcover that the Ship Prince of Wales had quitted the Bay ten Days before, &c^ NO event took place but the mere ordering and courfe of the fhip,.. till the 30th of the fucceeding month, when fhe was arrived in latitude $o° 29' North, a id longitude 1880 26' Eaft of Greenwich.— The weather was moderate and hazy, and the wind fettled at North Eaft. Early in the morning they faw the Ifland of Amluk, bearing North by Eaft, at the diftance of about twenty-four leagues. At nine o'clock they wore and ftood in for the land. At noon the weather became clear, and they faw the land bearing North North Eaft, diftant from twenty to twenty-three leagues. Oa 1 502 VOYAG.ES TO TH'E 1788. On the 31ft, they had light winds and calms; at ten o'clock in the Saturdaydi morning the clouds difperfed, and there was clear weather for half an hour; when an opportunity was taken to get a number of diftances of the fun and moon, from a medium of which the longitude was 1900 19' Eaft of Greenwidh, and the obferved latitude 500 58'North. Sunday 1 The early part of the following day was clear and moderate; but the'latter was cloudy, with freffl breezes. The crew were now bufily employed in airing and mending the fails. The -latitude was 51° 49' North, and the longitude 193? 32' Eaft of-Greenwich. A fteady breeze from the Weftward,.continued with hazy weather Tuefday 3 through the whole of the 2d ; and on the 3d they altered the courfe from North Eaft to North Eaft by North. The arms -were now cleaned, and the arm-cheft got off the deck into the cabin, to get them out of the way both of the feamen and the favages ; for as they were approaching the land, there was good reafon to exped a vifk from the latter. jXhurfdayj On t^ie 5^> at day-light, Trinity Ifland was feen bearing North North Weft, diftant feven or eight leagues. At nine it bore South half Eaft, fix or feven leagues; and at noon the breeze which had blown all the motning to the] North Eaft, encreafed to an hard gale i when the latitude, from an indifferent obfervation., was $6° z<f North, and the longitude 204°, 54' Eaft. Fiiday6 At noon it blew hard, and the gale encreafed, fo that they were obliged to hand the fore-fail and clofe reef the main top-fail: at eight in the evening, the extremity of the land from Cape Trinity, bore Eaft North Eaft, to North Weft by Weft, being diftant from the neareft land NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. land fix leagues. At eleven o'clock wore the fhip, and flood to the Southward and Eaftward. At fix in the morning Cape Trinity bore North North Eaft, at the diftance of about twelve or thirteen leagues. The gale continued to encreafe, and at fix in the evening, the fflip wore and flood to the Northward. No obfervation was made on this day.. At four in the. morning, it blew an hurricane,—reefed and handed the main-fail, and laid the fflip to under a balanced try-fail, and got three balance tackles on the gaff to fupport it. At five, theyfaw the land, the extremities from Port Trinity bearing North North Weft, to Weft South Weft, and Two Headed Point Weft North Weft,—diftant from the body of the land twelve or fourteen leagues. At fix they wore, and lay to on the larboard tack. It now blew the moft tremendous ftorm that had ever been feen by any perfon on board ; and at four in the afternoon the gale not being in the leaft abated, they got the topgallant mails down on deck, laying to with the head of the fflip to the Southward and Eaftward. About five the gale abated, but there was a moft dreadful fea ftill running. At nine they made fail, and got the topgallant mails and yards up. On the 8th, the wind ftill continued to ■ the Northward and Eaftward, but rather variable. The land was feen bearing North Weft, diftant five or fix leagues. The obferved latitude was 560 20' North. Longitude 205°36' Eaft- On the 9th, they had fair weather, with moderate and light breezes from the Eaftward. The ifland which Captain Douglas took for Trinity Ifland, as it is in the fame latitude and longitude which had.been laid down, lies off the mouth of a large bay, furrounded with, low land. The - hills were covered with fnow, while the lowlands poffeffed the fineft verdure, but not a tree was feen on the one or the other. In this bay there k-a fecure flicker fromthe North Weft winds, which,- had it been known,... would; 3°3 1788. VOYAGES TO THE would have afforded a certain protedion to the Iphigenia in the late violent gale of wind. This land forms part of the coaft between Foggy Ifland and Trinity Ifland, mentioned by Captain Cook, and has by no means the barren appearance of that land which is to the Northward of Trinity Ifland, and the Southward of Cape Greville. As the wind continued to the Eaftward, they plied to the windward, and flood into eight fathoms of water, with-a fandy bottom. On the ioth the weather was moderate and hazy. At fix in the afternoon they got a fight of the land, bearing Eaft North Eaft, at the diftance of about ffen leagues. This land forms a cape projeding into, the bay, which was now named Cape Hollings. It lies in the latitude of 570 12' -North, and the longitude of 207° 3' Eaft. During the night no foundings could be obtained wkh fevefky fathoms of line.— 1 On the following day at noon, the extremities of the land bore from Weft North Weft to Eaft by South ; the Ifland of Kodiak bearing Eaft. The obferved latitude was then 560 56' North, and the longkude, by a lunar obfervation, 2050 36' Eaft of Greenwich. It had been rather calm through the day ; but about five o'clock in the afternoon, a breeze fprung up from the Southward and Eaftward, and drew round to the Eaft.— They worked up the coaft, and flood in fflore to nine fathoms of water with a muddy bottom, the current being very much againft them.—At noon of the 12th, Trinity Ifland bore Eaft half South ; the extremities of the continent bearing from Eaft North Eaft half Eaft, to North half Weft ; the diftance of the fflip, from the nearefl land, was at this time feven leagues. The obferved latitude was 560 48' North; and from a mean of eight diftances of the fun and moon about three quarters after -twelve at noon, the longitude was 2050 5' Eaft of Greenwich. At n W5!L 0M"ll'f NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. At feven in the evening, a fine breeze fprung up from North North Weft, as they were fleering through the paffage between Trinity Ifland and the main, when they had regular foundings from leventeen to feven fathoms, over a bottom of fine fand. . On the North fide of the Ifland towards the fea, there is a very fine bay, where fhips may run in wkh fafety. Copious ftreams of water were running from the mountains, and great quantities of drift wood lying along the fflore. About eight a native came off to the fflip in a fmall canoe, and taking off the head of a feal which he wore on his own, he made them an obeifance, and afked them how they did, in the Ruffian language:—when, having taken a furvey of the fflip, he paddled back to the fflore. Shortly after, another canoe with one man in it paid them a vifit; who, in return for a few beads, with which he appeared to be infinitely delighted, offered the fkin of a grey fox ; but not being able to make it fafl to the fhip, as ffle was at this time making a deal of way through the water, he took it back with him. This man did not fpeak the language either of Cook's River or Nootka Sound. They had in the morning of the 13th, light airs and calms, and at ten in the morning had cleared the paflage. At noon, the obferved latitude was 56° 45' North; and longitude, from the refult of feveral obfervations was, paft noon, 2060 6' Eaft: the extremities of Trinity Ifland bearing from South Eaft by Eaft to South Weft ; and thofe of the coaft from Weft South Weft, to North North Eaft, at the diftance of four or five leagues. The variation of the compafs was 240 51' Eaft. At eight o'clock in the evening the extremities of the continent bore from South Weft half South, to North North Eaft. At nine they tried the current, and found it running four fathoms an bomv Qj 306 VOYAGES TO THE It being calm and no figns of a breeze, and as they had no foundings at the fflip, which was four leagues from the land, Captain DoUgkt's fent the jolly-boat with an officer on fflore, to get fome fiffl. At noon the extremes of the coaft bore from $OUth Weft to Cape Grevilfe M$fi|l North Eaft, and Trinity Ifland South Weft by South, ^at the diftance of ten leagues. At noon the obferved latitude was 560 59' North, and the longitude 2060 f Eaft. About one o'clock in the afternoon, a light breeze fpringing up, the fflip flood towards the fhore, and a gun was fired, as a fignal for the boat. At four fhe returned with fome haH*- but. Mr. Adamfon, the officer who commanded her, informed Captain Douglas that they had met with fome fifhing canoes, and that the- people who were in them, parted very readily with what fiffl they I had, but requefled fnuff in return, holding forth their boxes to be re- I fdfertilhed. At firft it was flippofed that they were Ruffians ; but on con- [ fidering t&dfe'ffl&fe, fcvkh the incifion of the under-lip, it was very evident I \ha&(they were either Kemfefk hun^eYs-, or fome of the natives of Cook's I River :—Though two years before, fnuff was a commodity to which the I latter difcovered an extreme averfion. On the 15th, the wind was from the Northward and Eaftward, with a fog. At four o'clock in the afternoon a freffl breeze fprung up, but ] the thick hazy weather continued through the day. About five on the I morning of the 16th, the weather cleared, when they faw Cape Greville on their beam, bearing Weft, at the diftance of nine leagues. They then altered their courfe to North North Weft, with a fine breeze. At noon f Cape Whkfunday bore Weft half South. The extremities of the land from the ifland of Saint Hermogenes, bore North Weft by North j ten leagues, to South Weft by Weft. Here they faw feveral fea-otters fporting in the water, and great numbers of whales.—The latitude at noon was 580 oi' North, and the longitude 2070 33' Eaft of Greenwich 4tiig4tepiHuifr». j^aNvV^shtf^Vli ■mi mi_ JE%- ^ ^., • NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA -Greenwich. At midnight they had a frefli eile from th» Snnrhi- 1 ^vhen they Paffed the B™> iflands. At fix in the morning two canoes came.ajpng-fi.de from Point Bede, and fflortly after a Ruffian from the fame place, with fome Kodiak hunters. They brought a prefent of a dozen freffl falmon, and in return received a fmall quantity of brandy <md fome tobacco. At noon, the extremes of the larboard fhore bore from South half Weft, to North Weft by North ; and thofe on the {larboard fide, from South South Eaft, to North half Weft ; Cape Douglas bore Weft half South ; Mount Saint Auguftine, North Weft half Weft ; Point Bede, South Eaft.half Eaft ; and Anchor Point, North half Weft; diftant from the {larboard and neareft fflore about fix or icven miles. The latitude at noon was 590 41' North. They had light winds as they run up Cook's River ; and about two in the afternoon feven or eight canoes came aloug-fide, from a few huts that were a little way a-head of the.fflip. All the natives of this place were ticket-men, and immediately produced their tickets, as paffports for good ufage ;* but they were fo poor as not to produce an inch of fur amongft them. About three in the af- . ternoon the tide fet fo ftrong againft them, as well as in fhore, that they were under the neceffity of dropping anchor in five fathoms and an half water, about two miles from the fflore.—The extremities of the land were as follow:—The {larboard fflore, from South by Eaft, to North * Thefe tickets are purchafed by the Ind ians from the Ruffian traders at a very dear rate, under a pretence that they will fecure th em from the ill treatment of any ftrangers who may vifit the coaft ; and as they take care to exercife great cruelty on fuch of the na- tives as are not provided with thefe inftrun ents of fafety, the poor people are very happy to purchafe them on any terms.—Such is the degrading fyftem of the Ruffian trade in thefe parts ; and forms a.ftriking contraft 0 the liberal and humane fpirit of Britifh com- QjP T 308 VOYAGESTOTHE 1788. half Weft: the larboard fflore, from South South Weft, to North Weft JuNE' by Weft : Cape Douglas, Weft by South : Mount St. Auguftine, Weft : Anchor Point South by Eaft half Eaft ; diftant ten or twelve miles. Captain Douglas now ordered the boat to be hoifted out, in order to go on fhore to look for the watering-place, and obferve the behaviour of the natives.—On landing, they found a fmall river running by the fide of the huts, and the natives very fhy. About fifty or threefcore of them fat basking in the fun, on the oppofite fide of the river, who took no notice whatever of the boat's crew. As the Iphigenia was in great want of wood and water,- it was abfolutely neeeflary to remain in their prefent fituation till a fufficient fupply was obtained of thefe effential articles.— Befides, there were no more than two casks of beef, and one of pork, on board, to ferve them thereft of the fummer, and, as it might happen, to carry them down to the Sandwich Iflands. A fupply of fiffl was therefore neeeflary to enable them to run the coaft down to the Southward, where they expeded to find abundance of furs ; and this river was expected to yield plenty of falmon, which might be faked down for the remaining part of their voyage. Wednefdayis it was defigned, on the morning of the 18th, to move the fflip higher up, fo as to lie oppofite the mouth of this river; but before the tide became favourable ffle touched the ground ; they therefore run out the kedge, hove up immediately, flipped the hawfer, and made fail, when they found a bank on the outfide with only two fathoms and a half: it being at this time low water, the boat was fent a-head to found; when they ran up the river about eighteen miles, and came to with the ftream, over a fandy bottom, and about a mile and an half from the fflore, which had a fteep beach. The boat was then fent to find out the moft convenient place for watering. Soon 3°9 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Soon after they had dropped the anchor, feveral canoes came from the huts which they faw yefterday : and though the natives had nothing to JuN*' fell, they continued near the fflip till the evening. Some of them, indeed, caught a few falmon, which were purchafed with beads. It appeared as if thefe people were on the watch to prevent any of the natives up Cook's river from vifiting the fflip.—The next day was employed in Thurfday ij wooding and watering, clearing the hold, and brewing fpruce beer. On the 20th they had light winds and pleafant weather.—In the Friday *• morning they lighted the anchor and moored fflip, when all hands were employed in wooding and watering. The net was alfo hauled into the mouth of the river for falmon, but without fuccefs„ On the day following the fame weather and occupations continued.—• Saturday ** About three o'clock in the afternoon five canoes came down the river, and the people in them called out Noota, Noota, as foon as they got along fide the fflip. Five otter-skins were purchafed of thefe favages, but they would take nothing except broad bar-iron; two feet of which were paid for each skin. It appeared as if they were at war with the Ruffians and Kodiak hunters, each of them being armed with a couple of daggers.—They earneftly entreated Captain Douglas to go higher up the river; and gave him to underftand that it was from the report of his guns, which he ordered to be fired morning and evening, that they knew of his arrival. They alfo informed, him that they had got a confiderable quantity of Natunichucks, or fea-otter skins, but were afraid to bring them down, on account of the Ruffians. On 3io 1788. VOYAGES TO THE On the morning of the 22d it blew a freffl gale, which railed fo great a furf in fhore, that it was impofll.ble to get either wood or water to the fflip.'—All the casks being full on the beach, it was thought proper to leave' four men, with the fecond officer, on fhore all night, to guard them. About midnight the wind fflifted from South Weft to Eaft, and .brought fair weather along with it. On the 23d, the' weather was cloudy, with light winds from the South- 3$!ard:and Eaftward. They now got the water on board, and coiled the cables below. The long-boat alfo having received fome damage, ffle was ■hauled up on the beach, and the carpenters and caulkers employed iiiye- pairing her ;—they were likewife fet to work to prepare a couple of mails and yards for her, as it was intended to difpatch her up the river, as' high as Point Poffeffion, on the information of the natives. The long-boat being finifhed, at four in the morning of the 24th, fhe was launched, and at half paft ten was difpatched, with the turn of the tide, we'll manned and armed, on her intended expedition under the command of the chief officer. The inftrudtions.given to him by Captain Douglas were to the following purport:— " He was ordered to proceed up as high as Point Poffeffion ; to look into moft of the fmall bays or low lands in fearch of inhabitants, and to barter his iron or beads for fea-otter skins, black foxes skins and falmon. If he met with any Ruffians, he was inftrucled to treat them with civility, but at the fame time to be upon his guard, and not to fuffer either them or the natives to enter into his boat.—In cafe of bad weather, or if by any unforefeen accident he fhould be detained four or five days, Captain Douglas mentioned his defign, at the end of that time, to follow him, with the fflip,' up the river, to Point Poffeffion; and that 2 he NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. he fhould fire guns to give him notice of his approach. The officer, ,78 however, was ordered to do his utmoft to return to the fhip at the end *™ of five days. The carpenter and caulker being ordered on fhore to procure fome fpars for oars, which were very much wanted, they were under-the ne- ceffity of tracing the banks of the river to a confiderable diftance before ehey could find any that would anfwer their purpofe. When thefe people returned on board they declared, that as the long-boat turned the point, they heard the difcharge of eleven great guns. Though Captain Douglas- was, in fome degree, alarmed when he firft received this intelligence ; yet as he had been informed by a Ruffian who went on board the Iphigenia at Point Bede, that none of his countrymen were fo high up the river ;: and as the long-boat, if fhe had been attacked, would have returned, the wind being fair to come back to the fhip, it was- Concluded, as it afterwards turned out, that thefe great guns were nothing more than mufquets, which the people had fired at fome ducks, and whofe report was conveyed by the wind, which blew right to the place where the carpenters were at work. About three o'clock in the afternoon of the 25th,. two canoes came wednefday25 down the river, and brought a fea-otter cut through the middle, and other- wife mangled. It appeared as if thefe natives thought that the flefh was ■ wanted, and not the fkin ; but no fatisfa&ory explanation could be obtained, as they did not underftand any words that were addreffed to them ; and indeed gave no caufe for fuppofing that they had ever traded with any European people. They had not a fingle bead of any kind in their poffeffion ; and the few which were now given them, feemed to attraft that kind of admiration which is awakened by objects that have been never, or at leaft feldom feen before. It was conjectured that they were inland VOYAGES TO THE I788. land natives, who live up the country in the winter, and had defcended June. fome river which empties kfelf into Smoky Bay, as that was the quarter l from whence they appeared to come. As it blew freffl, and there was a large fwell occafioned by the tide, they left the fflip, and went, in towards the fflore. urfday 26 The weather on the 26th was moderate and pleafant, and about nine in the morning two canoes came from the Southward, in one of which was the Ruffian who had paid the Iphigenia a vifit from Point Bede.— He brought a prefent of fome falmon, which was returned by a- fmall j parcel .of tobacco. At feven in the afternoon twelve double canoes ! came along-fide from the Southward; the people in them were Kodiak hunters, but they had neither fkins nor fiffl ;—though they promifed 4o bring fome of the latter .in the morning. Wday*7 At one in the morning of the 27th, they faw the long-boat dropping down with the tide: and at two came along-fide the Iphigenia, having obtained nothing but one very Indifferent fea-otter {kin,, and about two dozen of fplk falmon. The officer, Mr. Adamfon, reported, that as high up the river as 6o° 42' North, he met with Ruffians and Kodiak hunters, who followed him from village to village, and had got entire poffeffion of the river. The boat being returned, at fix o'clock the fflip was | unmoored; and on the turn of the tide, they weighed anchor and dropped down the river. At noon the obferved latitude was 590 58' North. About three in the afternoon, the flood-tide fetting in, they dropped anchor juft below Anchor Point, in feventeen fathoms of water.—The extremities of the Weftern fflore bore from North Weft by North, to Weft by South ; Cape Douglas bearing Weft ; Mount Saint Auguftine Weft North Weft, half North j and Point Bede South South Eaft; diftant I edit NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ol3 tant three or four leagues. At nine in the evening, with the turn of the 1788. ( tide, they hove up, and made fail with a light breeze from the South- g$ ■ward and Weftward. On the 28th at noon, Cape Elizabeth bore Eaft South Eaft, and the Saturday it' Eafternmoft of the Barren Iflands, Eaft South Eaft. At about five miles off fflore, there were no foundingswith fixty fathoms of line. No obfervation was made of the latitude, but the longitude was 2070 46' Eaft. At eleven in the morning of the'29th, the Eafternmoft of the Bar- Sunday*, ren Iflands bore South South Eaft, and Cape Elizabeth North North Eaft, diftant about five leagues. The weather being hazy, there was so opportunity of making an obfervation. They flood to the Southward and Eaftward till four in the morning of the 30th, with a moderate breeze from the Northward and Eaftward, Monday 3«- accompanied by hazy weather and rain. At ten, the ifland of Saint Hcrmogenes bore South Weft, diftant feven leagues.—No obfervation. • They had now light winds and calms, with a ftrong current fetting Jun hey h»w 3 ° Tuefday i them to the Southward and Weftward. At day-light, the extremities of the main'bore from-North Weft to North Eaft half North, at the diftance -of about- twelve leagues. At eight the body of the Barren Iflands bore North Weft by Weft, diftant fourteen leagues. As they had been difappointed of the fupply of falmon which they expected to have found in Cook's River, and there being no more than three cafks of provifions remaining, Captain Douglas" was under the neceffity of reducing himfelf and officers, as well as the feamen, to a very fflort allowance. The latitude was 590 / North. Rr Thc |L VOYAGES TO THE "1 laft, the very ■ The wind continuing at North Eaft, and Eaft North Eaft, the very I courfe they fought to fleer, with an heavy fwell, the fflip laboured exceedingly, and made a very flow progrefs along the coaft. About fix in I the morning they flood in to, within a league of, the main land.— I At nine they unbent the main top-fail to repair, and bent the old one. I The main top-maft ftay-fail alfo fuffered confiderably from the fqually weather, as they were under the neceflity of carrying a prefs of fafl J to keep the fflip from being forced down by the current among th& | Barren Iflands. The weather was thick and hazy, fo that no obfervation could be made, nor had they any fight of land. At five in the morning of the 3d, the wind fflifted to the South Eaft, I with moderate weather. At noon the extremities of the continent bore from North North Weft, to Weft by South, diftant tea leagues; and I the obferved latitude was 590 18' North. At four in the morning of the 4th, they were about ten or twelve I leagues from the continent, and- at neon the extremities of the land | bore from North Eaft, to South Weft half Weft,'diftant off fflore four | leagues. The latitude was 590 47' North. In the afternoon they had ] freffl North Eafterly breezes, with fqualls and rain ; and in the evenifig I the extremities of the continent bore from North North Eaft half j Eaft, to Weft half South, at the diftance of ten or eleven leagues. On the. 5th, at noon, the extremities of the land bore from North half I Eaft, to Weft half South, diftant ten or eleven leagues. The obferved I latitude was 590 1 f North. In the evening they had freffl gales, with I heavy fqualls and rain. On jP NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. On the 6th, at noon, the extremities of Montagu Ifland bore from North by Eaft, to North by Weft. It was the intention of Captain Douglas to keep without Montagu Ifland, from the number of funken *Qeks which lie in the inner paffage; but finding it blow fo freffl, <md the wind being right in his teeth, he could not effect his pur-' pofe..—The latitude, from an obfervation, was 590 36' North. They had now fair weather, with freffl Eafterly breezes ; and at three in .the afternoon had foundings in twenty-five fathoms water. At fix, as the tide was fetting againft them, they dropped the ftream anchor in .eight fathoms water, about three miles from the fflore of Montagu Ifland, the extremities of which bore Eaft by South, half South, to North half Eaft; and thofe of the continent bore from South Weft by South, to North North Eaft. At half paft eight they weighed anchor, and turned up that paflage. 1.788. Jitlt. Sunday 6 On the 7th, at one in the morning, dropped anchor about eight miles Monday ■ to the Northward, in twenty-feven fathoms .water, and fix miles from the fflore. At nine they weighed again, and flretched over to within a mile of the continent, when there was iio ground with thirty-fix fathoms of line.—At noon they were furrounded with land, except towards the paffage by which they entered, and which bore South. The obferved latitude was 6o° o' North. They had light breezes and fair weather as they turned between Montagu Ifland and the main.—At fix in the evening they came to with the kedge in thirteen fathoms water, about one mile and an half from the Montagu Ifland fflore. At ten, they weighed anchor, with a light breeze at Eaft South Eaft. At eight in the morning of the following day, they were in the mid- Tuda,, 8 channel, between Montagu Ifland and the Green Iflands. At noon, R r 2 the JL-fo VOYAGES TO THE the extremes of the former bore from Weft half South, to North North I Eaft, the body of the latter South by Weft; Cape Hinchinbroke Eaftj North Eaft ; and an ifland lying off Snug Corner Cove, North by Eaft; I diftant from Montagu Iftand two or three leagues.—Several guns were I now fired to acquaint the natives of our arrival;—The obferved latitude was 6o° 23' North. At four in the afternoon they flood over to the Weft- I ern fflore, with light winds and clear pleafant weather. At eight in the I evening they wore and {food in for the cove:, with light airs and calms. I 1 At noon, on the 9 th, dropped the ft-ream anchor in five-fathoms water, I in Snug Corner Cove.—The remainder of this day was employed in un- 1 bending the fails, hoifting out the boats, and other neeeflary matters. ■> On the 10th, fix canoes of the Chenouways tribe came along fide, but j had no more than one fea-otter skin among them, which was purchafed, with five or fix feal-skins for the rigging. Kennoonock informed Captain I Douglas that a fhip had been there, which had failed only ten days before with plenty of skins, and it appeared for Cook's river. This ki- I telligence was confirmed by the party, who had been on fflore for wood, as they had feen, inferibed on a couple of trees, J. Etches, of the Prime of Wales, May 9th, 178-8, and John Hutchint. CHAP. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 317 CHAP. XXVIII. The Iphig&m A fails from Snug Corner Bay.—They pafs Kaye's Ifland.— Clofe in with Cape Suckling.—Slow Progrefs along the Coaft, on Account of the Eafterly Winds.—Send the Long-boat into Beering's Bay, which returns after having been driven out to Sea.—They fee Ijlands of Ice.—Purchafe a great Number of Sea Otter Skins, Z£c. of the Natives' of Crofs Cape.—A Jingular Example of the Power of the Women among them.—Steer into Sea- Otter Bay.—Pafs Douglas Ifland.—Enter a Bay called Port Meares.— Pafs Rofe Point.—Obfervations on the Coaft.—Join the Felice at Nootka Sound. TILL the 14th, the people on board the Iphigenia were employed in wooding, watering, and repairing the fails. During that interval .they had been vifited by fome canoes,- which brought fifh, two rivers etter.skins, and fome feal-skins. Of this party there Was a man of the " Tauglekamute tribe, who informed Captain Douglas that they had plenty of skins in his diftrict, and promifed to return the following" morning to attend the fflip thither. At three o'clock in the afternoon, a light breeze fpringing up from the Weft, they weighed, and turned out of the cove. At ten in the evening Cape Hinchinbroke bore South Eaft by South, half South, and the North end of Montagu Ifland, South half Eaft ; diftant from the neareft land four or five miles. At m 1788. July. Tuefday 15 V O YAG E S TO THE At eight o'clock in the morning two canoes of the Chenouways tribe came alongfide with fome skins, chiefly of the otter cubs, which Captain Douglas told them they ought not to deftroy. At noon the weather was calm and cloudy, Cape Hinchinbroke bearing South South Eaft, and the North Eaft end of Montagu Ifland bearing South, diftant three or four leagues; at eight in the "evening the former of thefe places bore South Eaft half South, and the latter South j diftant from the main land four or five miles. On the 18th at noon, the South end of Kaye's Ifland bore North Eaft by Eaft half Eaft, diftant ten leagues. The extremities of the continent bore from North North Eaft half Eaft, to Weft by North; and Montagu Ifland from Weft half North, to Weft South Weft. The obferved latitude was 59° 52' North, and the longitude 2i4°2'Eaft of Greenwich. At one o'clock in the afternoon a breeze fprung up from the Southward and Weftward, they therefore fet all their fail, and flood for the South end of Kaye's Ifland, as they knew from former experience that there was not any paffage for a fflip through Comptroller's Bay. At fix in the morning they were clofe in with the Cape, when they had ground from ten to twenty fathoms, over a clayey bottom. At noon the wind was variable ; and Cape Suckling bore Weft by North, diftant. three or four leagues. The obferved latitude was $<f 57' North, and the longitude 2150 51' Eaft. They had a light breeze from the Southward and Eaftward till half paft three in the afternoon, when it took them back, and blew from Eaft North Eaft in heavy fqualls with rain. Being clofe in with the low land off Cape Suckling, and the current fet- ting them on Kaye's Ifland, they carried a prefs of fail to clear the South end of it. 2 At NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. At two in the morning the weather was moderate, with the wind at 178 the Eaft : At noon the body of Kaye's Ifland bore South Weft ; the ex- ^ tremkies of the continent from Cape Suckling bearing Weft by South to North Eaft half Eaft, diftant eight leagues. The obferved latitude was 590 5/ North, and longitude 2160 14' Eaft. Light winds from the Eaftward till fix in the afternoon, when the wind came round to the North,, and at eight fflifted to the North Eaft. At fun-rife Kaye's Ifland bore Weft half North, diftant fourteen Monday leagues. At eleven it blew freffl, with the land in fight; and at noon the obferved latitude was 590 18'North, and the longitude 216° 23' Eaft. At five in the afternoon they lay to under the main-fail, with ftrong gales from the North Eaft, and extreme cold. On the morning of the 22d they faw the land, bearing North North Tuefday Eaft, diftant fifteen or fixteen leagues. At eight the gale abated, when they {food in for the land, as they did not wifh to pafs unfeen on any part of the coaft where there was a probability of inhabitants. At noon the weather became moderate, and the obferved latitude was 590 5'North, longitude 2170 10' Eaft. Freffl breezes fprung up from Eaft and Eaft by North, with heavy rain, at fix in the afternoon ; and at eleven at night kfelew very hard, which obliged them to wear, and ftand to the Southward under courfes and double reefed main-top-fail. In this manner, and with the fame variable weather, the Iphigenia WedneS proceeded to run parallel with the coaft, fometimes in fight of land, and at other times at too great a diftance to fee it, or obftruaed from the view of it by an hazy atmofphere, till the 30th; when, at four o'clock in the morning, they faw'land ; the extremities of which bore from North Weft half North, to North Eaft, diftant fix or eight leagues. From fix .20 VOYAGESTOTHE 1788. to ten they had a light breeze from South South Weft, wkh which-they JuLY' flood into the bay. At noon it was calm and hazy, when they made but an indifferent obfervation, according to which their latitude was 590 27" North, longitude 2190 42' Eaft. At half paft twelve a light breeze fprung up from the Weftward, with which they fleered North till fix in the evening, when it fell calm. Being within a few leagues of the low land, and on the Eaft fide of the bay, they obferved the appearance of fmoke, and accordingly flood towards it; but the wind and tide failing, the long-boat was at eight in the evening hoifted out, in order to be fent to the.head of the bay ; but the appearance of bad weather occafioned her being detained till morning. At nine they clued the top-fails up, and dropped the ftream-anchor in twenty-eight fathoms water over hard ground. At midnight it was perceived that fhe fflip had driven off the bank into deeper water; they therefore gave her more cable, as it was bad anchoring-ground; but as the wind and tide were both adverfe, they kept-the anchor down till nea$F flack tide. riwfday 3i At three in fhe morning they hove up, and made fail toward the low land, where they faw the fmoke. At four the weather being moderate and clear, the long boat was difpatched, well manned and armed, under the command of the chief officer, who was inftructed to proceed towards the bottom of the bay, and to make fuch examination of it, and obtain fuch communication with any inhabitants he might find there, as would ' tend to the procuring furs', provifions, &c.—At the entrance of this bay they had fifteen, ten, and eleven fathoms water, over a rocky bottom, but higher up no foundings could be obtained with fifty fathoms of line.—At noon the latitude, by account, was 590 41' North, longitude 2190 47' Eaft. At three in the afternoon, having loft fight of the long- 1 ^ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, long-boat, and finding that ffle was driven out to fea, they wore and ra'n down towards her. At half paft four they got fight of her, and within an hour after came along-fide, when fhe was found making very bad weather, on account of the heavy fea : ffle was immediately hoifted- in, and they made fail to the Southward and Eaftward. At three in the morning of the ill of Auguft it blew ftrong from the North Eaft, with heavy rain.—At noon, the latitude by account was 590 io' North, longitude 2190 33' Eaft. At three 'in the afternoon the weather moderated, when they tacked, and flood to the Northward and Eaftward. At fun-rife land was feen, the extremities of which bore North Eaft half Eaft, to Weft, diftant fix or feven leagues. At noon the extremities of the land bore from North Weft, to Eaft South Eaft, diftant ten leagues. The obferved latitude was 590 16'North, and the longitude 2200 n' Eaft. In the afternoon the clouds cleared up from over the land, which gave . them a fight of Mount Saint Elias, bearing North Weft by Weft, at the diftance of about twenty leagues.—On feeing fomething floating, which they could not afcertain, as they had but little wind, the jolly-boat was hoifted out to examine it, when it proved to be a dead bird, of a large fize, which Captain Douglas has not thought worthy of a defcription. In the morning the jolly-boat was difpatched, with orders to proceed within a mile of the fflore, to examine if there was any appearance of inhabitants ; and about noon fhe returned, in company with a large canoe, containing about thirty Indians.—They now dropped the beft bower anchor in twenty-feven fathoms water, and purchafed of the natives feveral cotfacks or dreffes of fea-otter skins, and a pair of gloves of the fame The extremities of land, when at anchor, bore from Weft North Sf Weft IL_ 2 .VOYAGES TO THE 1788,. Weft, to Eaft by South half South, diftant four or five miles. The obferved latitude was 590 10' North, and the longitude 2210 27'Eaft. ruefday5 Early next morning the people returned, as the failors obferved,. with all their old cloaths, as the cetfacks which they now offered fb#« fale had been much worn: thefe articles, however, were purchafed,. with a quantity of falmon ; and at nine o'clock they weighed anchor and. proceeded along the fflore.—At noon the extremities of the land bore from Weft by North to Eaft; the latitude by obfervation was 590 1' Noting J longitude 2210 33' Eaft. The place where the fflip lay was called Ti- anna's Bay, in honour of that chief; he was indeed very much diffatis- fied with the prefent climate, againft the cold of which he could not i protect himfelf, though he had as much cloathing on him as he could i well carry,—and was become very impatient to return to Owhyhee.. At fun-rife on the 6th it fell calm, and continued fo till eleven o'clock,, when a light breeze fprung up from the South Weft.—At noon Cape Fair Weather bore North Eaft by North, and Crofs Cape South Eaft by Eaft, diftant from the neareft land four miles, running in for Crofs Sound.—The latitude by account was 580 10' North, and longitude 223*15' Eaft.—At three in the afternoon, being pretty high up the /Sound, and furrounded with what appeared to be iflands, as far as the eye could reach, the jolly-boat was -hoifted out, and fent to difcover if they were rocks or iflands of ice.—On her return, the account of the officer was, that the ifland he touched at was ice, as well as two or three other fmaller ones which he had paffed : concluding therefore that the iflands on the putfide of them might be ice alfo, they hauled clofe in with the fflore, and fent the boat a-head to found. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ,,. At fix in the evening a canoe from Crofs Cape arrived along-fide the I788. fflip with one man, who came on board quite naked. On being prefented AuGU»- with a jacket, a pair of trowfers, and an hat, he appeared to be very much delighted, and requefted them to go in clofe with the fhip, when he would fflew them the village of which he was an inhabitant. He accordingly went a-head in his canoe, and led them in among a parcel of rocks, with only three or four fathoms water, fo that Captain Douglas thought it neeeflary to take the pilotage of the veffel upon himfelf; and as it was dark and hazy, he found it a matter of fome difficulty to extricate himfelf from his very unpleafant fituation. However, at half paft * ten at night, they came to in feventeen fathoms water, over a rocky i bottom. Very early in the morning five canoes came along-fide, when forty ^m$| fea-otter skins and feveral cotfacks were purchafed ; but the natives here feemed to underftand the value of their merchandize, and Captain Douglas jwas obliged to give them the price they demanded. By eight -o'clock they had quitted the fhip :-But it is impoffible to take leave of them without mentioning a circumftance, which appears to be peculiar to this tribe of Indians ; among whom the women poffefs a predominant influence, and acknowledged fuperiority over the other fex-of vthis they gave a very ftriking example. One of the chiefs having unintentionally interrupted a canoe, in which was a woman, from coming clofe to the fhip fhe feized a paddle, and ftruck him fo violently with it on the head, that he was almoftdifabled from employing a fimilar inftrument, to ward off the blows which followed. In this manner they continued their contefl, ffle in ftriking, and he in defending himfelf for n Jgg hour; when Captain.Douglas, in order to put an end to this fingufer S f 2 7' VOYAGES TO THE fray, fired a mufquet over their heads, wkh concomitant figns of his difpleafure, but without effect. For the woman now ftepped into the canoe of the man, who appeared to be in a ftate of complete humiliation, i and pulling out a knife from fome part of her drefs,. ffle fpoke for fome time, and then cut him acrofs the thigh. Though the blood gufhed in ftreams from the wound, ffle was about to repeat her violence, when Captain Douglas interfered in fuch a manner as to oblige this vengeful dame to return to her own boat, and give the bleeding object of her vengeance an opportunity to paddle away to the fflore. During the whole of this engagement, if it may deferve that name, not. one of the men dared to interfere ; nay it appeared that they were in fuch an entire ftate of fubmiflion to female controul, that they could not difpofe of a skin till the women had granted them the neeeflary permiffiou. As thefe people, had difpofed of all their skins, at" noon Captain - Douglas made fail to the South Eaft, with the wind from the North Weft. The obferved latitude was 580 02' North, and longitude 2230 26' Eaft. The weather was now moderate and fair, and they kept a good look out at the maft-head for canoes or fmoke. At feveri in the evening a canoe was feen approaching the fflip, which.foon after arrived with two large otters and one fmall one, jufl killed, which were purchafed. The man on board the canoe gave them alfo to underftand that more skins would be brought in the morning. They, therefore, at eight o'clock, ran into twenty-three fathoms of water, and dropped the beft bower ; bottom, fand and fflells. At fun-rife eight canoes came along-fide, when fifty-fix fea-otter fkins were purchafed, fome of which were already formed into dreffes. At eleven o'clock they weighed anchor and made fail, running along the fflore, ^ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, fflore, to the South Eaft. The extremities of the land bore from Weft 1788. South Weft, to South Eaft by South, off fhore about three or four miles. Aut;usT- At noon the obferved latitude ■ was 570 3S' North, longitude 224° 15' Eaft. The weather continued moderate, with the wind from the North Weft. At two in the afternoon they faw a large bay, but being clofe in with the land, and there being no appearance of inhabitants, they tacked and flood out. At ten it fell calm, and continued fo till noon Saturday the next day, when it was fo hazy as to preclude making an accurate obfervation. The bay they left the preceding evening bore North North Eaft, off fhore about two leagues. At three in the afternoon a freffl breeze fpruiig up from the Weftward, and perceiving a bay which bore Eaft off the fflip, they hauled in, to fee if there were any •inhabitants, but not difcovering the leaft figns of any, they hauled out again, and fflortened fail for the night, not wifhing to run on, leaft they fflould pafs any of the inhabited parts of the coaft, and of courfe lofe the advantage of trading with the natives. In the morning they made fail, and got on deck all their bread Sunday 1 to dry. At noon Mount Edgecombe bore North Weft by Weft half Weft ; the extremities of the land alfo bearing from North Weft half Weft, **o Eaft South Eaft, diftant off fhore four miles. The obferved latitude was 590 19' North. From a medium of feveral diftances of the fun and moon, the longitude was 2240 50.' Eaft of Greenwich.—At eight in the evening, it blowing freffl, they reefed the top-fails and fflortened fail for the night, two fmall iflands bearing from the fflip South by Eaft half Eaft. The extremities of the land bore from North Weft by Weft half Weft, to South Eaft by Eaft, diftant from the fflore five leagues. Early 325 6 -VO l A U-E'S TO THE 1788. Early In the morning of the nth they made fail for the land, and ondayu "*at noon it was diftant about eight or nine leagues. The obferved latitude was 550 21' North, and-the longitude 2250 57"' Eaft. A brifk gale Springing up from the Northward and Weftward, at three o'clock in the afternoon they ran acrofs the mouth of a large bay which forms two scapes. The fouthern -one was called Capi 1 id Th land, lying in the latitude of The other to the North was 1 fea, but rifes gradually wkh ill •latitude of 550 39' North, loi Adamfon, and is high, bluff I Ss° 28' North, longitude 2260 21' Eaft. jj amed Cape Barnett. It is low towards the J laud to a confiderable height, and is in the gitude 226°,04' Eaft. Having run a confiderable way up theihay, they -entered, the -mouth -.of 1 a ftrait paffage, not more than half a mile acrofs from .fflore to fhore, fleering North : by the number of whales which were blowing a long I -way within -the paffage, .it was .evident 'that there was plenty of water I for the -fflip. At eight o'clock in the .evening they dropped the beft I bower in feven teen fathoms, with a fandy bottom, about half a mile I from the fflore. The fhip wis now entirely land-locked, -except at the I entrance; and her prefent fituation was named Sea-otter Hafbour, from I the great number of thofeinimals.^which were in the water. T&ey were I as thick as a flock of ducks ; and the: man at the maft-head taking them I for rocks, and calling out accordingly, occafion ed.a confiderable impedi- I ment in the courfe of the fflip. Early in the morning of the 12th, the jolly-boat;\was difpatched to I found, and the long-boat to look out for a watering place. At nine the I latter returned without having made the expeded difcovery. A very I plentiful, as well as convenient run of water, was, however, foon after I found by Captain Douglas on the oppofite fflore. He alfo faw many I 2 places I of SEA OTTER HARBOUR and ST PATRICKS BAY-, ^ A muft confift of iflands.—All ivood, getting in water, or over* iportunity places where there had been fires, but i In pulling up the bay he difcovered a was an ifland where the fflip lav: he is a] which formed the ftraits to the Northw hands were now employed in catting I hauling the rigging. Captain Douglas, therefore, took tl of taking out the jolly-boat to explore the head of the ftraits after pulling three or four hours, he faw two arms, one ftretchinjr towards the North, and the other about Eaft South Eaft. Bv the number .of whales which he faw blowing, in thefe different branches, he concluded there muft be paflages out to fea through both of them. He landed it feveral places,, and few fpots where fires had been made, as well as boards for canoes ; but no other figns whatever of inhabitants. At feven in the evening he returned on board, and gave orders to get under Way. At eight they- fleered through the mouth of the ftraits; Cape Barnett bearing South Weft by Weft half Weft, and Cape Adamfou, South by Weft half Weft. They had light winds from the Northward till nine in the morning, When it ffefflened up. At noon the former Cape bore North Weft by Weft, and the latter North Weft. The appearance ofa-large 1 North-by Weft half Weft ; a fmall ifland, about two-rj ference, South South Eaft, diftant feven or eight mile named Douglas Ifland ; -and there are two or three fmall, iflands lying off its North and South ends-. It is veryhijj with verdure, and may be feen at- the diftance of fixteen or feventeen leagues. It lies ten leagues-from the mainland, in the latitude of 54" 5s' North, and longitude 226° 43' Eaft. Between this ifland and the main there is another of lefier extent, which is rocky, barren, and almoft 1111 - -n „ „ frL_r» f-nm iHinrk rhev fleered thek courfe level.with.the water.. .Between rneic lw u ui™j ■-, by u circum- ind rocky id covered 3,8 i788. VOYAGES TO THE by compafs, Eaft South Eaft, but could get no foundings with fifty- fathoms of line. At three in the afternoon they had a fteady breeze from the Weftward, with clear weather, when they pafled Douglas Ifland ;| but as they were fleering in for a bay which bore North Eaft by North, there came on a very thick fog. At half-paft four, they were vifited by- two canoes, who appeared to have come but of the bay for which the] Iphigenia was fleering. Twenty-fix fea-otter fkins made in drefles, and fome birds, were now purchafed of their vifitors, who were fond of iron and beads, and were fatisfied with any quantity that was offered to them. I At one In the morning it blew a ftiff gale, with thick and foggy weather ; and they flood off South South Weft till four, when they hove to. At nine the fog diminifhed, and they made fail in fflore. At ten they got fight of Douglas Ifland, Weft by North half North. At noon the main land extended from Eaft by North, to North Weft by North, diftant four leagues off fflore. The obferved latitude was now 540 43' North, and the longitude, as reduced from the laft lunar obfervations, 2270 37' Eaft. They continued fleering in for the bay which was feen the preceding evening, and at two in the afternoon they got within a fmall ifland that lies a quarter of a mile from the main land. Here it fell calm ; and a chief, with two large canoes, each containing between thirty and forty people, came along-fide, finging a general chorus of no unpleafing effe£t. As the tids was adverfe, the fflip -was. driving down very fall towards the ifland which was under her lee. The chief was therefore defired to lay hold of a rope, and tow the fflip higher up the the bay, which was immediately done; the natives in the canoes continuing their fong as they proceeded. At three they dropped anchor in twenty-three fathoms of water, with a bottom of fand and fflells. The I*L fi of 0 ! JB[ 1 PORT ME ARE S. Latitude 54-° 51 North. Longitude 22y. 54.Eaft of 'Greenwich. j / NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. The Weftern point of land which forms the bay, bore Eaft South Eaft, and the Eaftern point, Eaft North Eaft ; fo that a fflip lying there Is only expofed to four points of the compafs;—that is, between Eaft South Eaft and Eaft Noith Eaft: ffle will be land-locked every other way about a mile from the Weftern fflore.-It was now named Port Meares. The latitude of the fflip at anchor was, by feveral obfervations, 540 51' North, and longitude, according to the refult of feveral diftances of the fun and moon, 2270 54' Eaft of Greenwich. In Port Meares there are two large arms or branches of the fea; the one turns North North Eaft, and the other about North North Weft, which Captain Douglas fuppofes to have a communication with Sea Otter Sound. During this and the two following days, they purchafed Friday *$ feveral fea-otter skins or nickees, as the natives called them. They obtained upwards of fixty cotfacks from this tribe, which Captain Douglas reprefents as the moft liberal, unfufpicious and honeft Indians he had ever known. They had now light winds from the Weftward, with very pleafant s^day IT weather. In the evening of the 17th the natives of the Northern or North North Eaftern branch of the fea, made a large fire to give notice of their approach; and at one in the morning they came along-fide, Monday 18 finging in their ufual manner as they approached the fflip.—Of thefe people they purchafed between fifty and fixty skins made into dreffes, and the beft they had yet feen. On the 20th having invited three of the chiefs to dinner, they made Wednefday« Captain Douglas underftand that they had difpofed of all their nickees ; but that if he would return with plenty of beads and iron, they would be prepared with a freffl quantity fufficient for his demands. They T t then 33° 1788; August. V O Y A G-E S TO THE then took him on deck, and pointing out to fea, made figns that the nickees came from thence. Though there was no land to be feen, as the coaft took an Eafterly dire&ion from Port Meares, at three in the afternoon they weighed and made fail, fleering out to fea South Eaft, with a freffl breeze from the Weftward. After running fix leagues, they faw land,- bearing from Eaft South Eaft, to South Weft, diftant about twelve leagues.—At nine it came on thick and hazy weather, when they hove the fflip to, wkh her head to the Northward and Weftward.— During the night they had foundings from fixty to eighty fathoms, with a faftidy' bottom. At eight in the morning of the 21ft, it cleared up oft the oppofite fflore, fo that they had a fight of the land which forms Port Meares, Bearing North North Weft, diftant nine or ten leagues. They then wore and made fail to the South Eaft. At noon they were clofe in with the land, which extended Eaft by North half North, to Weft by South. The obferved latitude was 540 06' North, and the longitude 228° 04' Eaft. They now run along the fflore, with a fteady breeze from the Weftward, towards a bay to which the natives had pointed. At two they faw a thick fmoke at the bottom of it, when they run into eleven and nine fathoms of water.—At half paft two a thick fog coming on, and land feen from the maft-head, trending due North, it was determined to difcover if there was any paffage, or if the'lahd that was feen joined the main. At a quarter before three o'clock, as no canoes came off, they fet a prefs of fail, and fleered for the bluff high land that bore North. At five it cleared up, fo that they had a fight of both fides, as well as of a fandy fpk, level with the water, which ran to the Northward, as far as the eye could reach from the maft-head." At feveii they had a ftiff gale, and faw the end of the low fpk of fand. At eight they hauled round the point, when kwas difcovered that the land did NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 33l not join the main, but formed a large ifland, which took a Southerly 1788. ,dkeaion.—After rounding the fandy level, they came to regular found- AuouST- ings-of ten, eight and feven fathoms of water, about three or four miles from the ifland, the extremes of which bore from North by Weft, to South Eaft by Eaft half Eaft. At fix in the morning of the 23d, "feeing no appearance of inhabi- Saturday *i- tants, they weighed anchor and made fail, Handing to the South Eaft, having land on both fides. The fandy point that was pafled on the preceding evening, was named Point Rofe. It lies in the latitude of 540 18' North, and in the longitude of 2280 39'Eaft.—It was now difcovered that this was a large ftrait, and an ifland of great extent, where the an- -chorage is good, and which, to all appearance, affords feveral harbours on the Northern and Eaftern fides- On the former there is a certainty of meeting with inhabitants ; and, in all probability, with abundance of furs. The centre of the ifland lies in the latitude of 530 58' North, and in the longitude of 2 28° 54' Eaft. At noon they had light winds and calms, wkh clear weather, the extremes of the ifland bearing from North North Weft, to South half Eaft, and thofe of the continent from Eaft by South, to North North Eaft ; diftance of the coaft nine leagues, and from the ifland about eight or nine leagues. The latitude, by obfervation was 53° $f North, and the longitude 2290 30' Eaft.—The variation, per medium of fix azimuths, 170 43'Eaft; per amplitude, 17° 59'. At nine in the morning of the 24th, the longitude, from the medium of feveral diftances of the fun and moon, was 2300 16' Eaft of Greenwich.—From nine till noon the weather was calm and clear, when the bearings of the land were as follows :-The extremities of the continent T t 2 ' borc T 33* VOYAGES TO THE bore North Weft by North, half North, to Eaft by South ; a fmall bluff ifland, lying off the main, bearing North by Weft, diftant ten leagues, and the extremities of Charlotte Ifland from Weft to South. I fhall here take the opportunity of obferving, that fhips which arrive- early on the coaft, when they muft expect to meet with heavy gales of wind, will fiiid it their advantage to make the South end of this iftand, and to enter the ftraits in the latitude of 5 2°, and the longitude of 2290 30-', when they will find fflelter either in the ifland or on the continent.—It may be alfo added, that as fhips which are returning from the North at a latfe period of the feafon; are liable to be blown off the coaft, it would be advifable for them to make Douglas Ifland, and enter the ftraits in the latitude of 540 30', and longitude 2260 30', when they will find good anchorage, as well as inhabitants, on the North fide of the ifland.—On the continent they will alfo have the advantage of Port Meares and Sea Otter Sound, befides feveral other bays which have not yet been explored, between 56 and 54 degrees of North latitude. On the morning of the 25th they had loft fight of land, and, as the change of the moon was approaching, when a gale of wind might be expected, which, perhaps, would have Wiged them to run immediately to the Sandwich Iflands for a fupply of provifions, it was refolved to fleer at once for Nootka Sound, without encountering the land again, in order to add to thek flock of furs. On the 26th, at r half paft nine, their longitude, from-3 medium of feveral diftances of the fun and moon, was 1320 38' Eaft of Greenwich, with a ftrong gale, {leering Eaft North Eaft ; and at noon their latitude was, by obfervation, 49^42' North. 2 At WORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA 333 At eight in the evening they were clofe in with the entrance of , »88 Nootka Sound, when it fell calm, and the tide fetting out, they drop- AuGu"- ped the beft bower anchor in twenty-three fathoms water. At feven on the morning of the 28th, a light breeze fpringing up Thurfdayas from the Weftward, they got under way, and flood in for the Sound ; and before noon the "Iphigenia, with her crew in good health and fpirits,, joined the Felice in Friendly Cove, I CHAP. J m VOYAGES TO THE CHAP. XXIX. The Iehigenia, in Company with the North West America Schooner, leaves Nootka Sound.—Scarcity of Provifions on board.—Arrive off Mowee, one of the Sandwich Ijlands.—Supplied with Plenty of Provifions.—Tianna , receives his Brother on board: their affsclionate Meeting.—Arrive off Owhyhee.—A Vifit from the King, and his Joy at feeing Tianna.—Anchor in Karakakooa Bay.—Great Abundance of Provifions fent on board.—Ceremony of receiving Captain Douglas on Shore.—The King and §>ueen of Owhyhee Jleep on board the Iphigenia.—The North West America parts from her Cable.—Tianna goes on Shore to get Permiffionfor the King's Divers to affiftin recovering the Cable.—The Ceremony previous to their entering the. Water.—The Length of Time they remain under it.—The Iphigenia parts from her Cable.—SufpeSt the Natives of this A5i of Treachery.—The Divers again employed, and recover the Cable, &c.—Tianna leaves the Ship, with all his Treafures, to fettle in Owhyhee.—An Account of the late Change in the Government of that Ifland, &c. THE Iphigenia remained in Friendly Cove after the departure of the Felice, till the 27th of October, the interval of which was em-' ployed in fitting the North Weft America for fea, and making fuch other preparations as their approaching voyage rendered neeeflary.—At noen on that day they quitted Nootka Sound, and proceeded on their way to the Sandwich Iflands ;- —and, a s nothing particular happened k the ^courfe of it , but a fcarc ty of p rovifions which ©ccafioned a very fflort 4* II I allow ance', •NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, allowance, w.e fhall at Once fuppofe the Iphigenia and her confort to b W fight of Owhyhee ; which welcome objed prefented kfelf to the crew of both veflels at day-light in the morning of the 6th of December :- the Weft end of that ifland then bore South South Weft, three quarter Weft, diftant nine or ten leagues ; and the Ifland of Mowee bore Wefl diftant feven leagues.—The wind having drawn round to South Sout! Weft, occafioned them to run over to the South Eaft fide of Mowee. Tianna, whofe impatience fince the Iphigenia left Samboingan, had fometimes broke forth into the violence of anger, and might have been expeded, on approaching his native country, to have affumed the fflape of the moft violent joy, became grave and'thoughtful ; and any occafional eagernefs which animated his looks and aclions, when they drew nigh to the Sandwich Iflands, rather implied the anxiety of expedation, than fen- fations of pleafure.—He knew enough of the fituation of his country to caufe a very powerful conteft between hope and fear in his bofom; and thofe apprehenfions of danger which weighed nothing with him when failing over diftant feas, feemed, in fome degree, to opprefs his fpirits, when he was about to encounter it.—It was certainly a period of the moft painful fufpenfe, as he was uncertain whether the treafures he poffeffed would be employed to elevate him into confequence, or to pur- chafe his fafety ;—whether they would be allowed to enrich himfelf, or feized, to form the wealth of others.—He had left his ifland in a ftate of peace, but he had every reafon to fear-that he fflould find it in a ftate of war; or at leaft under the government of an ufurped power, which he could not for a moment fuppofe Would be friendly to him.—Such to be the ftate of Tianna's mind on arriving among hi iflai We had no fooner appeared off Mowee than a great number of canoes came off with hogs, yams and plantains.-On this fide of the .{land il VOYAGES TO THE there is a large town, the refidence of Titeeree, the fovereign of Mowee, who was at this time on a vifit to Taheo, king of Atooi, in whofe abfence the government was left to the care of Harwallenee, brother-in- law to Tianna, of whofe arrival he was no fooner informed, than he ordered a prefent of hogs for the fflip ; but before it arrived Tianna had obferved his brother on fflore, and having drefled himfelf in his beft apparel, -defired thatjtneflage a might be fent to inyite him on board.—On his arrival they met as brothers fflould do after a long feparation; the whole of their condud to each other was affedionate;—they melted into tears, and almoft drew the fame from the eyes of thofe who beheld them. After their firft emotions had fubfided, the chief requefted Captain Douglas to remain with him for a few days, and engaged to fupply him with any quantity of provifions that might be demanded; but as he faw no place where they could come to an anchor in fafety, the furf at the fame time beating with great violence, and an heavy fwell with the wind blowing in fflore, Captain Douglas was under the neceflity of declining i:he invitation. Tianna being extremely anxious to vifit -Owhyhee, they wore, and flood at noon for the North Weft point of that ifland. At noon on the 7th, a canoe from Owhyhee came along-fide, with a friend of Tianna, who had heard in the courfe of the night, from Mowee, of his arrival.—In the afternoon feveral relations of Abinui came on board, and in the evening Tianna difpatched a friend to Tome- homy-haw, to give him notice of their approach. On the following morning a .great number of canoes came off from Toe-yah-yah Bay, with hogs, fowls, and taro-root.—The winds were light and variable, and the latitude, by obfervation, 200 1i' North. At fun- I NORT« WEST COAST OF AMERICA. iun-fet the extremes of Owhyhee bore from North to South by North, diftance off fflore three leagues. At two in the morning there was heavy rain, with thunder and lightning. At day-light they had loft fight of the North Weft America; but at nine faw her clofe in fflore. At eleven they hove to till the fehooner came up. At noon they were only four miles off fflore, and the obferved latitude was 190 44' North. In the afternoon feveral of Tianna's relations came on board; and fo liberal was he difpofed to be to them all, that if he had not been checked in his generality, the whole of his trea- fure would haye been at once divided among them. TheJKmg alfo fent-a prefent to Captain Douglas, accompanied with a meffage that he would pay him a vifit as foon as he had come to an anchor in the bay. The current having fet them'a confiderable way to the Northward, at Wedn day-light they made fail for the bay ; and at noon the latitude, by obfervation, was 190 35' North. Tianna now difpatched one of the chiefs who had come to welcome his arrival, to invite the King to come on board; and at two in the afternoon he made his appearance in. a large double canoe, attended by twelve others of the fame fize, beautifully adorned with feathers. As foon as he came on board, Captain Douglas faluted him with feven guns. After crying over Tianna for a confiderable time, the King prefented Captain Douglas with a moft beautiful fan, and two long-feathered cloaks. The light winds and number of canoes ' hanging on the fhip, prevented her from making any way through the water : fo that it became a matter of neceflity to requeft his Majefty to taboo the fflip, with which he readily complied, defiring permiflion, at the fame time, for himfelf and feveral of the chiefs to fleep on board. Uu They L 335 VOYAGES TO THE They continued working into the bay till two o'clock in the morning j | when they dropped anchor in twenty-one fathoms water, at the diftance of three quarters of a mile from fflore. The King profeffed the warmeft friendfh>ip for the Captain of the Iphigenia,—declared that the ifland fhould belong to km while he remaained there,—and, to prove the fin- cerity of his regard, exchanged names with him. But however flattering all thefe attentions might be, Captain Douglas thought it not impoffible but that feme attempt might be made to fei-ze the fchooner, as ffle appeared to-be fmall, and her crew few in number ; he therefore, in the evening, carried the King on. board the North Weft America, when by fainting him with all her g\ms, and other explanations concerning the - poffibilky of defending her, whem attacked, h.y retiring to clofe quarters* the difficulty of getting poffeffion of her nwift have appeared very evident to the royal vifftor. When, however, Tianna explained to him the manner and: time im which ffle was buik, he intreated felat a carpenter . might be left at Owhyhee to adliftTianata in.fouming fuch another; and, indeed, fo earneft- were the requefts of them both on this fubjed, that it was neeeflary to make fomething of a conditional pajomife;,. at leaft,. for their prefent fatisfadion. On the morning .of the 12th the Captains of both fhips accompanied the King and Tianna in the jolly-boat, on fflore. They were met on th^beach by three priefls,. who,chaunted a kind-of fong, and prefented a faaatt hog and cacoa-nut ; the former of which was"given by the King to -. Captain .Douglas.—This ceremony coatiMed about ten minutes, after which they were introduced into a large houfe fpread wkh mats, and a kkdof painty-coloured cloth," when, after the repetition of thefe ceremonies, and the priefl: had) chaunted a third fong, two baked hogs were brought in, of which the Englifh gentlemen alone eat, and then proceeded NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 339 1788. ceeded to take a walk, in which they' we e not interrupted by a fingle perfon, as all the natives were tabooed on th ; occafion, and, of courfe December. fined to their houfes. Nothing was feen in this little excurfion worth a repetition, but a clump of cocoa-nut trees, whofe trunks were pierced by the balls of the Refo- lution and the Difcovery. It being extremely hot, they returned and dined with the King, on freffl fiffl and potatoes.—The other chiefs fat at fome diftance during dinner, and then made their meal on roafted dogs, taro-roots and potatoes ; as at this feafon of the year even the chiefs are forbidden to eat hogs and fowls, from the King down to the loweft Eree. In the evening the King and Queen returned wkh Captain Douglas on . t#$tfd the Iphigenia, as they confidered it to be a luxury of no common defcription to fleep in his cot. This day was chiefly employed in killing and faking down the hogs; fcut as the coppers on board for heating the water were very fmall, they made but flow progrefs in this neeeflary occupation. At" three in the morning of the 14th, the fchooner came under the ftern of theilphigenia, when Captain Funter gave the very difagreeable information that ffle had parted her cable.—After having moored her to the Iphip-enia, Tianna was requefted to go on fflore, and entreat the King to fend off his divers, In order to recover the anchor ; and at eight o'clock he came off with them.—The fchooner having lain in thirty fathoms water, and not having loft more than three or four fathoms of cable, a very great depth muft have remained for the natives to have explored, in order to fucceed in the bufinefs about which they were to be employed. The following ceremony, however, was to be performed, before they entered upon their fearch:— When thek canoes were arrived at the place Una where VOYAGES TO THE where the anchor lay,., feveral calabafhes with taro-root were prefented by a chief to fix men, who employed about half an hour at the repaft;- when one of the chiefs who accompanied them gave three loud yells, and waved a piece" of white cloth over his head; at this fignal the fix men plunged into the fea, and dlfappeared in a moment.—Four of the fix remained beneath the water about five minutes; the fifth continued about a minute longer, and-when he came up was almoft exhaufted; two men immediately feized and dragged him to the boat:—In the mean time there was no appearance of the fixth, who was confidered as loft, when he was feen near the furface of the water, but finking down again; three of the divers, however, plunged inftantly after him, and brought him up, but in a fenfelefs ftate, and with ftreams of blood if- fuing from his mouth and noftrils.—It was fome time before he was fuffici- ently recovered to inform them that he had not only got hold of the cable* but had cleared it. This man, according to the account of Captain Funter of the North Weft America, was beneath the water the fpace of feven minutes and an half. It appeared, however, that the anchor was in too great a depth of water to afford any profped of its being recovered.— Thefe people were amply rewarded for their exertions. Captain Douglas having given orders to right the anchor, thought It ' prudent to move further in towards the village of Kowrowa, and dropped anchor in twenty fathoms water, about a quarter of a mile from the fflore;—but, finding it to be bad ground, a warp was run out, and the fflip hauled into fourteen fathoms water.. At day-light the jolly-boat was fent to found, when, on its being difcovered that the ground was by no means clear of the coral rock, on the Kowrowa fide, they weighed anchor, and warped the fflip oppofite Sandy Bay. on the Karakakooa fide, where they dropped the bower anchor in twenty fathoms water, wkh a bottom of grey fand; the two points which NORTH WEST COAST OF AME which form the bay, bearing Weft half North, to Weft, diftant off fflore about one mile. The evening killing and faking provifions. 1 one quarter I788. employed in 8CSM"*' Tianna had now determined to remain at Owhyhee, as Tome-homy- haw had given him a large trad of land in that ifland, where he would live in a ftate of honour and fecurity, which the reigning diftradions and. jealoufies of the government of Atooi would have denied him ; befides-, it was a matter of no great difficulty to get his wife and the reft of his family from thence to his new fettlement. The weather having been very fqually to the Weftward for fome days Friday paft, Captain Douglas was apprehenfive of a gale of wind blowing from the fea ; he was therefore determined to get under way, and go in fearch of fome place, among the other iflands, where the veflels might lie in fafety.—In the morning, therefore, they unmoored the fhip, but in- heaving the fmall bower they found the cable had parted.—On the very inftant this difcovery was made, the King and his chiefs fecretly quitted the fflip and paddled haftily to the fflore—As the clinch was cut, to all appearance by defign, there was little doubt on whom to fix the mif- chief: Tianna, therefore, was fent to inform the King, of the circumftance, as well as the fufpicions conneded with it, and that if the anchor was not found, his town fflould be blown about his ears.—This threat had the defired effed, for in a fflort time Tianna returned with a party of divers, who, after a repetition of the ceremonies- already defcribed, leaped into the water and difappe eft period which any of them remained under water v but no anchor was to be feen'.-They were fent down a fecond time with the fame fuccefs.-At length the buoy-rope was hooked with a fmall grapnel, fo that the divers had now no excufe whatever as to ared.—The long- ras four minutes,. V O YAG E S TO THE the uncertainty where the anchor lay -, accordingly two of them went down wkh a three and half inch rope, and bent it in twenty fathoms, as well as if they had been on fflore, fo that this important objed was fortunately recovered ; the lofs of which would have been very diftrefling, as they had only one bower left, and an heavy ffleet-anchor, but without any cable of fufficient ftrength to bring the latter to the bows. In the morning they had light breezes from the land, and as they Were heaving up the anchor, in order to get an offing, an heavy fquall appearing to be brewing from the Weftward, the King, accompanied by Tianna and feveral chiefs, came on board ; but the former, when he found that we {hot out from the bay, thought it time to depart, and accordingly left the fflip, attended by upwards of an hundred canoes. As foon as they had got an offing they hove to, and the fquall clearing away, Tianna's treafures were ordered to be brought upon deck.— They confifted of faws of different kinds, gimblets, hatchets, adzes,, knives and choppers, cloth of various fabrics, carpets of feveral colours, a confiderable quantity of China-Ware, and ten bars of iron.—Thefe riches, for fuch they may be truly denominated to the owner of them, were not to be trufted in one bottom; and as there yet remained about- the fflip feveral double canoes that carried each from forty to fifty men, his trunk was handed into one of them, the bafs of iron into another, and fo on, till he had no lefs than five canoes charged with his treafure, -which was fecurely laffled to them.—Tianna, after entreating Captain Douglas again and again to bring his family from Atooi to Owhyhee, took a moft affedionate leave of him and the whole crew, who had fb long been his conftarit companions and friends; nor were the latter with- mt their emotions of regard, when they faw the chief, whofe amiable difpofition and fuperior qualities had won their, ftncere efteem through 3,' the NORTH WEST COAST O F AMERICA. the connedion of a lonp- and J™~ 3^ from ,l,em._As Tk„!a 1 7T "^ *"" '° b« ^'^ *>«, «-> ieic cne ltiip, accompanied by a numerous De"Mbm.. ■ eir refpedive canoes Captain Douglas ordered train of I a felute c k of efte, >rth Wef a to that refpedable chief, and Though feveral: Euror iphigenia alone had anch and his people were the Owhyhee fince the unfi which havl they c; • me to ■ t haps, i them. Manj r of th< larize, • ire no i treaehej -ous Ko bered as i havim Clerke, and w Iphigen the revc opinion of Ca ffels have been off the iftand, yet as the? Karakakooa-bay, and Captain Douglas aropeans who have ventured on fflore at he unfortunate death of Captain Cook, the changes place in the ifland fince that lamentable■ event, as far a& . : now ledge of Captain Douglas,, may be confidered, per- of fufficient curiofity to juftify a curfory mention of? ; chiefs whom Captain King thought proper to particow. Bare; and among them the friendly Kaireekeea and the ah-:—but Eappo, the faithful Eappo,, who may he remem-. I brought the bones of the illuftrious navigator to Captain* ho had married Tianna's fifter, was now on board there he had lived ever fince her arrival off the ifland. As to in the government,, the moft accurate account, in the ptairu Douglas, was as follows :.— About three years after the death of Captain Cook, MaihaMaiha,—for that was the name which Tome-homy-haw then bore,—bad■ occafion to feud a meffage to the King Terreeoboo,. who,.for fome reafon which did not appear,, thought proper to put the rneffenger. to death.—But Maiha.. Maiha- being a very powerful chief,, and poffefllng a very bold and adiye 1 difpofition, contrived to; unite .the greater part of thofe of his own rank L ch we muft: nal in the VOYAGES TO THE rank to join with him in forwarding his revenge. He, therefore, went immediately to the King, who became fo irritated by his provoking ac-i cufations, as to refent the infult by a blow. On this ad, whi fuppofe to have been confidered as in the higheft degree crim King himfelf, the Chiefs of the ifland fat in judgment during three days, when it was determined by their councils, that Terreeoboo fflould fuffer death. A cup of poifon, therefore, was inftantly prepared, and being given to Maiha Maiha, was prefented by him to the King, who refufed it twice; when being informed that another and more difflo-: nourable mode of punifflment was at hand, and obferving that an execu-v tioner flood by his fide, in a ftate of preparation to knock out his, brains, the wretched fovereign, in an agony of defpair, drank off the: .deadly draught, and in a few moments fell from his feat and expired, >- The fame power which doomed Terreeoboo to death, deprived his fen ©f the royal fucceflion, and Maiha Maiha was proclaimed King, by the name of Tome-homy-haw.—Such was the moft probable hiftoryof this revolution;—though the King himfelf took no common pains to perfuade Captain Douglas that Terreeoboo was poifoned for having encouraged the natives to the murder of Captain Cook. Tome-homy-haw, however, appeared to be rather an objed of fear I than love among his fubjeds.—As far as could be obferved, he was of a I tyrannic difpofition, and poffeffed few of thofe qualities which gain I a fovereign the firft of all titles,—the Father of his people. Captain fl Douglas mentions a circumftance which proves at leaft, that if a blow I from the hand or a weapon was confidered at Owhyhee as a capital I] ■offence even in the King, the fame violence from the foot was, by no II means, confidered a-s partaking of the fame criminal nature.—Some t>i the chiefs propofing, on feeing Captain Douglas fflave himfelf, that f| NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, -that the King fflould undergo the fame operation, his Majefty thought -proper to kick them all, one after the other, not only without fear, but Decem without mercy. On the 2ill the fhips made fail for Mowee, with the wind from the Sunday South. At noon the obferved latitude was 200 36' North, diftant from Mowee four miles. A freffl gale fpringing up from the Southward, they " ran up to the head of the bay, and had regular foundings from thirteen to five fathoms of water over coral-rock, with fome fpots of fand, where they might have anchored with fafety to their cables, if the wind had not blown fo freffl on fflore. They, therefore, hauled out of the bay, and fleered for the Weft point of the ifland. At fix in the evening, they dropped the fmall bower anchor in five fathoms and an half of water, over fand and fflells, and moored with the ftream anchor, half a cable each way. CHAP. i$. VOYAGES TO THE CHAP. XXX, dfrrive off Woahoo.-—RdCdptkh given by ftiteeree, King of it, to Captain Douglas.—The Anchors of both Veffels hove up by the Natives.—Negotiation with ihe King for the Reftoration of them.—Qjfit Wbahoo, and proceed to Atooi.—Anchor in Wymoa Bay.—Taheo, the Sovereign, retires up the Country, from an Apprehenfton of Tianna's Arrival. —He returns, and his Alarms fubftdc.—Viftls the Iphigenia. — The Dtartteft of Provifions.—The fuppofed Caufes of it.—Certain Douglas cautioned of fecrei Deftgns againft him.—His Conduct thereon.—Ship and Rigging repatrettl ■—Proceed towards Oneeheow.—Forced by contrary Gales to Woahoo.— Arrive in Tiroway Bay in Owhyhee. — Friendly ConduSl of Tianna and the King.—Alliance entered into by the Princes of the neighbouring Iflands, in Favour of the Son of Terreeoboo.—The Affiftance given by Captain Douglas to the Sovereign of Owhyhee, and Tianna.—Defcription $f Tiroway Bay.'—Large Quantity of Provifions fent by Order of Tome homy- haw,—Quit Owhyhee.—Difpute among the Seamen at Wymoa Bay.—Proceed to Oneeheow for Tarns.—Quit the Sandwich Ijlands, to return to the North Weft Coaft of America. \T O material occurrence took place from the 21 ft, but an attempt of * the natives to cut the cable while the Iphigenia was at anchor off the Ifland of Mowee, for which one of them received a very fevere correction.—They had continued, for feveral days, to beat about in fearch of a good anchoring place ; and on the 30th, they worked round the ' South Eaft end of the Ifland of Woahoo; and at eight in the evening were 2 clofe J NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, clofe in with a large bay.—The following day at noon, on finding that the current fet them down towards a ffloal, which the fea broke over ! with great force, they made fail and pufhed out from the land, when thfey had five, four, and three and an half fathoms of water, about four miles from trrefflore. At four in the afternoon they tacked and flood in, to try for anchorage; but the wind blowing too freffl on land and a number of fhoals and banks being under their lee, they were oblked fo put about. Having flood off till four in the morning, the wind drew round to the Eaftward, and brought clear, moderate weather. They were now informed by the natives that Titeeree, the King, lived on the Eaft-fide of the bay.—The jolly-boat was, therefore, fent to found oppofite a fandy bay, while the Iphigenia flood off under an eafy fail. At noon the jolly-boat made fignal for anchorage, when they accordingly run in and dropped the ftream anchor in eleven fathoms of water, over fand and fflells, at the diftance of about three miles from a village, and two from an high bluff land on the Eaftern fide of the bay. The two extreme points which form this large bay, bearing from Weft half North, to Eaft South Eaft. It is called by the natives Witetee, and the only good anchorage appears to be on the Eaftern fide : while the trade-wind blows, a veffel may ride in fafety ; but if the wind varies to the South Eaft or Weft, it then becomes dangerous, on account ofthe number of fhoals and banks which it contains. After they had dropped anchor, Captain Douglas difpatched a prefent to the King, accompanied with an invitation to fee him on board, and at four in the afternoon he paid a vifit to the Iphigenia; The fovereign of Woahoo was faluted with the difcharge of five guns on his arrival on board, and a fecernd prefent of adzes, choppers and kniresWas X x 2 offered S48 VOYAGESTOTHE i 89. offered to him; when he readily promifed that the taboo fflould be Jahuart. ta^en 0ff the hogs, as far as it related to them, and that they fflould | be plentifully fupplied from the iflands. of Mowee, Ranai, Morot^l and Woahoo.. Triday 1 jn ^ morning the King repeated his vifit, bringing a prefent of hogs,. I taro-root and potatoes; with a turtle, and fome fiffl of the trout kind.— I Early in the afternoon he went on fflore, and foon after Captain Douglas, I followed him in the jolly-boat. He was received very cordially by Titeeree, who took him round the village, fflewed him feveral plantations, and I conduded him to fome large ponds, which appeared to be full of fiffl— He mentioned alfo fome others where he had a quantity of turtle, and. promifed to bring one on board, the next day. -Saturday 3 The next morning Titeeree vifited the fflip, with a prefent of a turtle • and feme hogs.—About ten o'clock a double canoe, fchooner rigged, came round the Eaft point of the bay. The natives were deceived as well as the people in the fflip ; for they all imagined it to be the North Weft America, which had not been feen for fome days, till the canoe came within a fflort diflance. She had got jib) main-fail and fore-fail as well. as thofe of the fchooner. On the ioth they were joined by Captain Fuuter, who had been'beating off the Weft point of the ifland for feveral days paft, without being able to join the Iphigenia. Nothing of material occurrence took place during the time which the veffels remained at Woahoo, except the lofs of both their anchors ; which Titeeree, who, in every other refped, behaved with the greateft kindnefs, contrived, though it blew a gale of wind, to heave up and get N-ORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, get a-fflore, with their cables. As this was a lofs of the utmoft confequence, and, fituated as they were, would have prevented their future progrefs, it became abfolutely neceffary to.be very ferious in their endeavours to recover them. The King did not attempt to hide the theft; and" the people whom Captain Douglas fent to him to demand the reftoration of the anchors and cables, few them lying in his houfe.—■ Indeed, they feem to have been taken wkh no other view than to compel Captain Douglas to leave fome of his armourers at Woahoo, as the condition of their being reflored. However, the anchors, &c. were regained, on prefenting the King with a piftol, a mufquet, and a fmall : quantity of ammunition ; accompanied alfo with fome very neceffary menaces, that if he did not reftore the articles he had taken, his town..* fflould be laid in 'allies. 349 1789. After having laid in fuch a flock of provifions as.it was in their power to purchafe, and having filled fome calks with water, at half paft five • in the afternoon of the 25th, the two veflels got under, way, and flood out of the bay. At noon of the following day, the obferved latitude was 2i° 23' North; and the extremities of Woahoo bore from Eaft by South, to North Weft by North, diftant from, fhore about four miles. . At two in the afternoon of the 26th, they faw the ifland of Atooi,.. Monday 3 bearing Weft by North half North ; and in the courfe of the night had a ftrong current fetting againft them, with the v nd from the Weftward. At noon of the 29th, they dropped anchor in Wymoa Bay, in twenty- three fathoms of water, over a muddy bottom::—The two extreme points which form the bay, bearing from. Eaft South Eaft, to Weft North - Weft. The Morai on fflore, bore North Eaft half North. m.i VOYAGES TO THE On the arrival of the Iphigenia and the North Weft America off the ifland, Taheo, the King, and all the chiefs, had gone to a confiderable diftance up the country, dreading the effeds of Tianna's anger, who^ they had been informed, was on board one of the veflels, and had tabooed every thing on fflore: but as it was underftood that the chief, whofe vengeance was fo much dreaded, had been left at Owhyhee, meflengers were immediately fent after Taheo, who in confequence of this information, returned in about three days to Wymoa; and on his arrival, feveral canoes were fent off with hogs, potatoes and yams, for which a moft exorbitant price was demanded. A couple of hatchets, or eighteen inches of bar iron, was expeded even for an hog but of a middle fize. This exorbitant difpofition ,arofe principally from the fuggeftlons of a boy, whofe name was Samuel Hitchcock, who had run away from Captain Colnett, and was become a great favourite with Taheo himfelf.— Indeed, fo great was his influence with the King, that one of the natives having ftolen from him a fmall piece of cloth which he wore round his middle, Taheo ordered the culprit to be purfued to the mountains, whither he had fled, and when the wretched creature was taken, both' his eyes were torn from their fockets, a pahoo was then driven through Jiis heart, and his fleffl ftripped from the bones, as a bait for fflark&^fgK But though Taheo returned to Wymoa, he was by no means without apprehenfions as to his fafety; nor would he accept of Captain Douglas's invitation to come on board the Iphigenia ; feigning, as an excufe, that he had been ill ufed by the crew of a, fflip fome time before. This alarm,' indeed, in a fflort time fubfided, and he paid his occafional vifits to the fflip, and a friendly communication, at leaft to all appearance, took •place between the natives and their European vifkors. •V,Jr**MK**M - At ■^ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 35t At the feme time, it was hinted to Captain Douglas to be continually 1789. on his guard againft the defigns of the King, and of Abinui his minifter;' }^AK"'' and he was alfo informed of a poifonous root well known to the inhabitants of the Sandwich Iflands, which when ground to powder, might be eafily fcattered about the fflip, or thrown upon their cloaths, without being obferved, and whofe power is of fuch a deadly nature, that if the fmalleft quantity of it fhould be inhaled by the mouth or the noftrils, * the confequence is immediate death. Captain Douglas, therefore, though he did not very much fufped any murderous intention in Taheo, or his people, thought it a prudent precaution, at all events, to make known his intention, if any attempt was made to poifon any of the provifions fold to them, that he would not leave a native alive whom he fflould find within his reach. But though the quantify qf hogs and roots which they could obtain at Atooi, were by no means equal to their expedations, or fometimes even to thek immediate neceflkies, opportunities were taken of doing confiderable fervice, by making fuch repairs in the fails, cordage, and other articles which were eflentially neceffary to the condition of both- the veflels. It was therefore determined to proceed to Oneeheow ; and as Namkahaw, with fix- of his relations, and four women, exprefled their wiffles to accompany Tianna's wife and child to Owhyhee,he took them < all on board, inthe expedation that they would be of very great fervice to him in procuring fuch provifions as he wanted, in the ifland he was- proceeding to vifit. At two in the afternoon ofWednefday, the 18th of February, both wednefday.* veflels got under way; and at fun-fetting, Wymoa Bay bore North Eaft. At noon of the following day, the South Weft end of Oneeheow bore Thulfe Weft, at the diftance of one mite. But ftrong gales coming on from the i VOYAGES TO THE the North Weft, and finding that they drove a confiderable way to the" Southward and Eaftward of Oneeheow and Atooi, and there being every appearance that the wind would-continue to the Weftward, Captain Douglas determined to run over to Woahoo, in order to get a freffl fupply of provifions, as they had killed their laft-hog. Accordingly on Saturday' the 21 ft, at four in the afternoon,-a freffl gale fpringing up from North' North Weft, they bore away for Woahoo. At noon on the following1 day, they paft the Weftern point of Witetee Bay, the foundings befog from -fourteen to three fathoms of water, and diftant five or fix miles from the fflore. Captain Douglas obferves that this ffloal runs out further than any he had encountered among thefe iflands, and that m Hes in the latitude of 2i° 22' North, and the longitude of 20z° 15' Eaft of Greenwich. ,day 23 In the morning of the 23d, they came to their former anchorSM ground ; and at nine, Titeeree came on board, and fome of the paffen- gers'having informed him of the price paid for provifions at Atooi he was difpofed to imitate the exorbitant demands of the neighbouring ifland; and no inconfiderable quantity of powder and fhot, for thofe were now become the favourite articles, was demanded for a fingle hog ; fo that very peremptory methods were obliged to be employed in order to procure the neceffary fupplies. A freffl breeze fpringing up from the Weftward about noon, on the fdays4 24th, Captain Douglas embraced the favourable occafion to get over to Owhyhee, where he hoped to find greater plenty, and more rea- fonable demands. At noon on the 2d of March, Owhyhee "bore from North half Wefts .to South Eaft by South, diftant from the fflore about two leagues ; and very 1 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, very fflortly after Tianna came on board from a part of the ifland 1789 called Toee-Hye,—and when he had indulged himfelf for fome time in M*ac" the oppreffive joy of yearning nature at the fight of his wife and child,' he conduded the fflip into a bay called by the natives Tiroway; and at four in the afternoon, they anchored in fixteen fathoms of water, over a fine fand, the two extreme points bearing from South South Eaft half Eaft, diftant from the fflore about a mile and an half> In the evening, by the provident care of Tianna, they received a confiderable quantity of refrefflments. Early in the morning the jolly-boat was fent to found the bay, when good ground was found all acrofs it, from fourteen to twenty-two fathoms of water, over a fine brown Tuefih*. fand. The King having been on a fiffling party, he did not arrive till four in the afternoon; when he came, accompanied by his Queen and daughter* in two difpatch boats, having quitted his heavy Canoes and attendants. He appeared to be overjoyed at their return,—exprefled his hopes that Tianna had paid them all proper attention in his abfence, and affured them' that his power in the ifland, and all he himfelf pofleffed in it, was at their command. Indeed, the quantity of provifions with which he caufed them to be furnifhed, and his anxious endeavours to forward the wiffles of Captain Douglas in every thing, proved, beyond a doubt, the fincerky of his profeflions. The next day at an early hour, Tome-homy-haw, Tianna, and feveral other chiefs, came on board the Iphigenia, and foon after the whole com- wedaefl,, pany were difmiffed by the King, except Tianna ; and having thrown a feathered cloak over Captain Douglas, the chief, in the name of the fovereign and himfelf, began to unfold the fecrets of their political fituation. Yy He V O Y AGES TO THE He ftated that Taheo, king of Atooi, and Titeeree, the fovereign of Mowee, Ranai, Morotoi, and Woahoo, had entered into a compad with Terreemoweeree, the furviving fon of Terreeoboo, who lived on the weather-fide of the Ifland, to difpoflefs Tome-homy-haw of his rank and power, for no other reafon but becaufe he had permitted Tianna to fix his fettlement at Owhyhee:—That Taheo had been furniffled by the Gaptains Portlock, Dixon, &c. with a quantity of arms and ammunition, on an exprefs condition that he would not afford any fup- plies whatever to Captain Meares and his aflbciates ;—for the truth of which Information, he appealed to the reception which that gentleman had lately found on putting into the ifland of Atooi, where' he could not obtain any refrefflment of any kind :—And Tianna, with tears in his eyes, and the moft affeding expreffions, declared his apprehenfions of the diftrefs which Captain Meares and his crew muft have fuffered from the want of provifions before he reached Macao, if he fflould have been able, by any means, to have compleated his voyage to China. The fpeech, which was of confiderable length, concluded with entreating Captain Douglas to leave two of his men behind him, till his return from America, together with a fwivel gun, his own fowling- piece, and whatever other arms and ammunition could be {pared by him. * The preparations which Captain Douglas had feen at the other iflandsj? and the great demand he had experienced for powder, {hot and muf- quets, induced him to give fome credit to the fcheme which Tianna had juft mentioned : he, therefore, complied with that part of the requeft which related to the fire-arms, and immediately ordered the carpenter on fflore, to form a ftage on one of the largeft double canoes, to receive the fwivel. I NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA. In the afternoon of the following day, the carpenter having finifhed the canoe, ffle was brought along-fide the Iphigenia, when the gun was mounted; but it was with great difficuky that the King could pre-' vail on his people to keep their paddles in their hands while he difcharged the piece. At fix in the morning, the wind being from the Southward and Eaftward, a fignal was made for the King to come on board, when they got under way, fleering for the bay of Toee-Hye. The King was accompanied by his Queen, Tianna and other principal chiefs, while thofe of an inferior rank attended the fflip in a fleet of thirty canoes. Tiroway- Bay, which they now quitted, is fuperior in many refpeds to that of Karakakooa, the ground being extremely good, with not a fpot of coral rock in any part of it: befides, veffels may lie at fuch a diftance from the fflore, that if the wind blows, they can clear the land with fafety. The latitude of the fflip at anchor was ig° 4' North. At half paft five In the afternoon, the beft bower anchor was dropped in ten fathoms of water, oppofite the village of Toee-Hye, the two extreme points of this large bay bearing from South Weft by South, to North Weft by North, diftant from the fflore three miles. In the evening, the King and his company went on fflore ; and on the following morning fent off a prefent of thirty hogs, a quantity of fait, cocoa-nuts, potatoes, and taro. As the trade-wind was now blowing freffl, Captain Douglas requefted that he might, if poffible, be favoured with immediate fupplies, as he was in hafte to fail for America^— Tome-homy-haw, therefore, difpatched meffengers up the country, with orders for every one who had an hog to bring it immediately to the village, on pain of death: and at ten the next morning, he himfelf came off wkh a prefent of fifty hogs, fome of which waghed fifteen ftone.— Yy 2 V O YAG E S TO THE In the courfe of the day other, neceffary articles were fent on board j and amongft other things were twelve geefe. It may, be a matter off curiofity to mention that, at the fame time, a boat came into, bhe bay with a cock and hen turkey. Thefe animals W6J& going round to breed at the village of Wipeeo. The hen, we were told, had already fat twice, in different parts of the ifland, and reared her broods to the number of twenty ; fo that in a few years there will, be a great abundance of that fpecies of fowl in thefe iflands. In the evening Captain Douglas, after, prefenting feme fire-arms and ammunition to the King and Tianna, took his leave of them; and at midnight they got under way. Their latitude at noon, on the next- day, was 30° 21' North. They now proceeded to Woafrooj whe-ro having got a confiderable quantity of wood, and made fome addition- to the flock of taro and fugar-cane, they continued their courfe to Atooi; and in the evening of the 12th came to an anchor about two miles to the Eaftward of the anchoring-ground. At day-light on the 13th, they got the boats out, and towed the fflip into her former birth. Taheo and the other principal chiefs were gone to Punna, and Abinui was the only perfon of confequence remaining at Wymoa, who fent a prefent of an hog on board, but did not think proper to accompany it. In the morning, the long-boat was fent on fflore for water, when the men on duty got to quarrelling with fo much violence, as to draw their knives againft each other ; and when Mr. Viana attempted to part them, a feaman, of the name of Jones, threatened to knock him down. As fuch a difturbance, if not checked in time, might have been attended with confequences that would prove fatal to the voyage, Captain Douglas ordered Jones to immediate punifflment; to which, wkh the moft horrid execrations, he refufed to fubmit, and run for the fore-top, in ex-. pedation ■** NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^ pedation of meeting with the blunderbuffes which were generally kept 1789. there primed and loaded, in cafe of an attack from the natives, but was Ma*ch' prevented from gaining his objed by Captain Douglas, who fired a piftol over his head, and threatened him with a fecond difcharge if he proceeded another ftep. But as it was very evident that feveral of the fflip's crew were difpofed to fupport him, he was ordered either to deliver himfelf up to punifflment, or inftantly to leave the fhip ; which he did without the leaft hefitation, and tranquillity was immediately reftored. |if*t- Having compleated their watering, at five in the afternoon they got under way for Oneeheow, in order to obtain a fupply of yams. But being prevented by adverfe winds, and a current running ftrong from the Northward, to make Yam Bay, they were forced, to avoid being driven to the leeward, to bear up for the other bay ; and in the afternoon of the following day, they dropped anchor in thirteen fathoms of water; Sunday ij the bearings of the two points being from South by. Eaft, to North by Eaft ; the fmall ifland of Tahoora bore at the fame time, South South Weft half Weft, diftant from the fflore one mile and an half. In the evening, Captain Douglas being informed of a defign agitated by feveral of the feamen to go off with the jolly-boat, gave orders to the officers to keep a ft rid watch ; neverthelefs, during the night, the quarter- mailer and two of the failors had got on fflore in fome of the canoes that.were along-fide. They had formed a plan to get off with the boat, and at the fame time to fet fire to the fflip; but being prevented in thek diabolical enterprife, they had taken an opportunity toefcape to the ifland. Two of them, however, by the adive zeal of honefl Friday, a native of Oneeheow, who has already been mentioned in thefe pages with the efteem he fo well deferves, were fflortly brought back to the fflip; but the quarter-mafter, who was .the ringleader in the mifchief, . could 358 VOYAGESTOTHE 1789. could not be brought off on account of the furf, and was thetefore left March, behind: for fuch was the fituation of both veflels, being in want of many | neceffary articles,—the North Weft America having alfo loft her anchor,—that though, according to his inftrudions, Captain Douglas I was to have proceeded to the Northward, he was under the neceffity of difobeying them, and proceeding immediately to the Coaft of Ame* rica, where he had every reafon to hope he fflould meet with a fflip from China. The Iphigenia and the Schooner had now been near four months among thefe iflands ; and it is to the honour of Captain Douglas, that he . conduded himfelf wkh that prudent attention to circumftances, as to have avoided any ferious difpute with the natives of any of them. CHAtf. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. CHAP. XXXI. 359 1789. They leave Oneeheow, and proceed on their Return to the North Weft Coaft of America.—Pafs Bird Ifland.—Particular Circumftance refpeSling the Compafs.—The Arrival of the Iphigenia and the North West America at Nootka Sound.—The latter difpatched on a Trading Voyage, and the Reafons of it.—The Arrival of a Spanifh Ship.—The ConduSl of the Spanifh Commander.—Seizure of the Iphigenia, &c.—She is obliged to leave Nootka Sound, and proceeds to the Northward.—Trade with the Natives of the Coaft.—Anchor off a Village named Fort Pitt.—Defcription of Buccleugh's Sound.—Anchor in Haines's Cove.—A War threatened between two Tribes of Natives,—The Means employed to prevent it.—An Account of Mac Intire's Bay.—Examine Cox's Channel.— A Defign formed by the Natives to get Poffeffion of the Ship.—Difcovered to Captain Douglas by the Women. —Friendly ConduSl of a Chief named BlakowJ—AU the Bar-Iron expended.— Pafs Cox's Channel. — Trade with the Natives of Tatanee.— Quit the Coaft of America.—Return to the Sandwich Ifiands.—Fortunate Efcape from a Defign of the King and Chiefs of Owhyhee on Captain Douglas and his People, &c—Touch at the different Iflands for Provifions, &c — Proceed on their Voyage to China. — Arrive off Macao, &c. T| A VI N G got about a month's ftore of yams, the two veflels ■^ fet fail; and having loft fight of the ifland of Oneeheow on the 18th, they proceeded in company to the North Weft, with the wind Wednefday from North North Eaft. At three the next morning, land was feen a-head ; and at four, being almoft clofe up with it, they hove to till day-light. This m VOYAGES TO THE This ifland or rock, bears the form of a faddle, high at each end, and low in the middle. To the South it is covered with verdure; but on the North, Weft and Eaft fides, it is a barren rock, perpendicularly fleep, and did not appear to be acceflible but to the feathered race, with which it abounds. It was therefore named Bird Ifland. It lies in the latitude of 23° of North, and in the longitude of 198° io' Eaft, by a medium of feveral obferved diftances of the fun and moon. Nothing very material took place during the voyage of the Iphigenia and North Weft America back to Nootka Sound. They both fuffered thofe inconveniencies which may be fuppofed to arife from the feanty flore of many articles neceffary for the comfort and navigation of a fflip.—It may be proper, however, to mention, that in the beginning of April, for two or three days together, it became impoflible to fleer the fflip, the compaffes flying about each way four or five points in a moment.— Captain Douglas remarks, that he experienced the fame phaenomenon laft year about the fame latitude. The latitude at this time was from 360 19' to 36° 10' North, and the longitude from 2080 15' to 2100 13'. The whole trarifadions concerning the Iphigenia, after her arrival at Nootka Sound, with the condud of the Spanifh commander, which have formed a fubjed of difpute between the Crowns' of Great Britain and Spain, are ftated at large in the Memorial prefented by me to the Houfe of Commons ;—I muft therefore refer the reader to the Appendix of this volume, where he will find the Memorial, with various other papers, explanatory of the mercantile plans and operations of the Aflbciated Company for carrying on a Trade between China and the North Weft Coaft of America. The ■a NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. „<, The Iphigenia being permitted by the Spanifh commodore to depart, *$* they quitted Friendly Cove, as is feen in the Memorial, and continued wj^ , thek courfe to the Northward, wkh the wind at South Eaft.—At fun- fet on the 4th, the Southern extremity of Charlotte's Iflands bore Thurfday* from Weft North Weft, to Weft by South, diftant two leagues—At noon the next day the weather was thick and foggy.—The latitude by Friday s account was-52° 33' North ; longitude 2280 2/ Eaft. In the morning of the 6th the fog cleared away, and there were a great number of fea-otters playing round the fflip At eleven they faw a fmall barren ifland.—At noon the latitude by account was 540 y' North, and the longitude 2290 9'Eaft—At three in the afternoon, the current having fet them to leeward, and out of fight of the ifland, and being furrounded with a number of fmall iflets and rocks, they bore up to look out for fome place of fflelter before night.—At five they paffed between a low ifland and the main land.—At ten it fell calm, and the current fet them down to a fmall ifland, and no foundings to be •obtained with eighty fathoms of line ; the boats were therefore hoifted out, and the fflip towed clear of the ifland, into 26 fathoms water, when they dropped the ilream anchar'over a muddy ground. ■ At break of day k was low water, when a ledge of rocks was feen above water, within lefs than a cable's length of the fhip : a breeze fpringing up, they weighed anchor and worked out of the found. At eleven the wind dying away, the ftream anchor was dropped in fifty-five fathoms water, at theentrance of the found. At noon a breeze fprung up from the South Eaft, when they weighed and ftood to the South Weft. The -latitude by obfervation was 540 W- North, and the longitude 2290 15' Eaft. Zz The 36t 17S JUK VOYAGES TO THE The weather was now become fair and moderate ; and the early part of the afternoon, on obferving a canoe paddling towards the fflip, they fflortened fail, and purchafed three cotfacks of the fea-otter's fkin.—The natives made Captain Douglas underftand that there were more nickees at a village to which they pointed.—He therefore wore, and flood to the North Eaft, in company with the canoe; and at fix dropped the ftream anchor, in thirty-five fathoms water, oppofite a village which ftandsupon an high rock, and has the appearance of a fort. This place, whichis in the latitude of 540 58', longitude 2290 43' Eaft, Captain Douglas named Fort Pitt. They bought feveral otter-flrins of the natives ; but in the morning, there being no figns of any further traffic, they weighed anchor and flood to the Weftward.—At noon the obferved latitude was 540 46', and the longitude 2290 12' Eaft. In this large found, which was now named Buccleugh's -Sound, there are feveral arms and branches, fome of which take an Eafterly diredion, and run as far as the eye could reach ; one or two others took a Northerly diredion, and, in the opinion of Captain Douglas, communicate with Port Meares and Sea Otter Sound.-—The two capes, which form Buccleugh's Sound, were named Cape Farmer and Cape Murray.—The former, which is the Southernmoft, lies in the latitude of 540 35' North, longitude 229° 16' Eaft ; and the latitude of the latter is 540 43' North, -and its longitude 2280 io'Eaft.—A lowifland, covered wkh trees, about three leagues in circumference, which they paffed the day before, and lies off Cape Farmer, was named Petries Ifland.—It is in the latitude of 540 42', and in the longitude of 2290 20'.—An high mountain on the Weft fide of the found, where they perceived the appearance of a village with their glaffes, was called Mount Saint Lazaro.—It liesin the latitude of 540 52' North; longitude 2280 56' Eaft. At eleven at night they made fail to clear a fmall rocky ifland that lies off Cape Murray. At NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. , At noon the next day the entrance of Port Meares bore Weft by North, x __, but having only the nine inch cable which was got from the Spaniards, W^ Captain Douglas did not think it prudent to bring up there, on account TUefday' of its expofure to the South Eaft winds ; but having, at this time a leading breeze, they fleered right up the found, paffing feven or eight iflands which lie in the middle of it.—In the afternoon the long-boat was ordered out, and an officer fent to found and difcover fome place of fhelter.—In about three hours he returned, having found out a fine cove, about four miles higher up the found ; and at feven in the evening they dropped tiie.bower anchor in fifteen fathoms water, over fand and fhells, about half a mile from the larboard fflore, and at twice that diftance from the ftarboard fflore. ' Captain Douglas reprefents this harbour as by much the beft he had feen on the coaft of America.—The entrance of it is not more than half a mile from fflore to fflore, off which an ifland is fituated of about a mile in circumference; fo that a veffel may lay there in a ftate of fecurity from all winds.—At the bottom of this cove, which is about two miles from the entrance, there is a very fine beach, and in the middle of it there is alfo a fmall ifland, round which the tide flows:—It was named Haines's Cove, and is in the latitude of 540 5/ North, and longitude Friday , 228° 3'Eaft. 363 Several fucceeding days were employed in purchafing furs, fifh, and oil, and making feme neceffary repairs to the fhip and rigging:—Nor did any thing material happen till the afternoon of the 17th, when fhe Wedoefdaj-i chiefs of the two villages, on different fides of the cove, having had fome difagreement, they prepared for war, and a very bloody conflid, to all appearance, was prevented, by the interpofition of the women, which, after a very loud and angry-debate, that lafled upwards of an-hour, pro- Z z 2 duced -I V O YAG E S TO THE duced a reconciliation betweeen the hoftile parties.—One of the chiefs, attended by his canoes, paddled round the Iphigenia, and chaunted a fong as an acknowledgment to Captain Douglas, that he had not taken part in the difpute; while the other party were received at the village of their tribe, by the women and children, with the tuneful acclamations of welcome or of triumph. At eight o'clock, on the morning of the 19th, a breeze fpringing up from the South Weft, they weighed anchor, and made fail out of the cove.—At noon, the extremes of the land, from Cape Murray, which forms Port Meares, bore North Eaft by Eaft, to an high bluff, which was now named Cape Irving :—The latter lies in the latitude of 54°49' North, and the longitude 2270 43' Eaft.—The two capes, bearing about Eaft and Weft from each other.—The North Weft point of Charlotte's Iflands alfo bore South by Weft half Weft, diftant twelve or fourteen leagues. The weather was moderate and cloudy, with the wind from the So^BE; Weft.—At fun-fet, there being the appearance of an inlet, which bore South South Weft, they flood acrofs a deep bay, when they had irregular foundings, from twenty-fix to eleven fathoms water, at the diftance of two leagues from the fflore ; —the wind dying away they dropped the ftream-anchor,-. the two points which form the bay, bearing from Weft, one quarter North, to North Eaft half Eaft, diftant from the fflore four miles. It was now named M' Intire's Bay, and lies in the latitude of 530 58' North, and longitude 2280 6AEafl. In the morning of the 20th, the long-boat was difpatched to the head of the bay, to difcover if there was any paffage up the inlet;— and the account received on her return was, that toward the head of the 2 bay * NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. bay a bar run acrofs, on which the long-boat got a-ground; but that within it there was the appearance of a large found. Several canoes now came along-fide the fhip, and having purchafed their flock of furs, Captain Douglas got under way to look into an inlet which he had obferved the preceding year.—At noon it was exceeding hazy, and no obfervation was made. Early in the afternoon the long-boat was fent, well manned and armed, to examine the inlet and found for anchorage; and foon after, twelve canoes being feen making thek way towards her, while feveral others were coming offto the fflip, Captain Douglas made fail after the long-boat* which had already made a fignal for anchorage.—At five o'clock they dropped the bower anchor in twenty-five fathoms water, about four miles from the fflore, and twofrom a fmall barren, rocky ifland, which ' happened to prove the refidence of a chief, named Blakow-Coneehaw, whom Captain-Douglas had feen on the coaft in his laft voyage.—He came immediately on board, and welcomed the arrival of the fflip with a fong, to which two hundred of his people formed a chorus of the moft pleafing melody—When the voices ceafed, he paid Captain Douglas the compliment of exchanging names with him, after the manner of the chiefs of the Sandwich Iflands. At feven in the morning they flood up the inlet, and at nine came ' to in eighteen fathoms water, when they moored the fflip with the ftream-faachor. Through this channel, which is formed by Charlotte's Iflands, and an ifland that lies off the Weft end of it, the tide was found to run very rapid. The paffage takes its courfe Eaft and Weft, about tfen or twelve miles, and forms a communication with the open fea.-It was now named Cox's Channel—Very foon after the fhip was moored, the'long-boat was fent to found in the mid.-channel, but no foundings 3«J 366 VOYAGES TO T H E- 1789.- foundings could be,obtained with eighty fathoms of line; but near the •fUNE' rocks, on the {larboard fflore, they had twenty and thirty fathoms water. Having been vifited the preceding night by two canoes, which, lay on their paddles, and dropped down with the tide, as was fuppofed, in expedation of finding us all afleep, they were defired to keep off, and finding themfelves difcovered they made haftily for the fflore. As- no orders had been given to fire at any boat, however fufpiciou's its appearance might be, thefe people were fuffered to retreat without being interrupted.—This night, however, there happened to be feveral women on board, and they gave Captain Douglas to underftand, that if he or his crew fflould fall afleep, all their heads would be cut off, as a plan had been formed by a confiderable number of the natives, as foon as the lights were out, to make an attempt upon the fflip.—The gunner therefore received his iuftrudions, in confequence of this information, and foon after the lights were extinguiffled, on feeing a canoe coming out from among the.rocks, he gave the alarm, and fired a gun over her, which was accom. panied by the difcharge of feveral mufkets, which drove her back agai|H with the utmoft precipation. In the morning the old chief, Blakow Coneehaw, .made a long fpeech from the beach; and the long-boat going on fflore for wood, there were upwards of forty men iffued from behind a rock, and held up a thimble I and fome other trifling things, which they had ftolen from the fflip ;—9 but when they found that the party did not intend to moleft them, theyfo gave a very ready and adive affiftance in cutting wood, and bringing the water-cafks down to the boat.—Some time after the chief came on board, arrayed, as may be fuppofed, in a fafhion of extraordinary cere-:- mony, having four fkins of the ermine hanging from each ear,, and onetk 3 from m NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. from his nofe ; when, after Captain Douglas had explained to him the , reafon of their firing the preceding night, he firft made a long fpeech to his own people, and then affured him that the attempt which had been made, was by fome of the tribe who inhabited the oppofite fhore; and entreated, if they fflould repeat their nocturnal vifit, that they might be killed as they deferved.—He added, that he had left his houfe, in order to live along-fide the fflip, for the purpofe of its protedion, and that he himfelf had commanded the women to give that information which they had communicated.—This old "man exercifed the moft friendly fervices in his power to Captain Douglas, and poffeffed a degree of authority over his tribe, very fuperior to that of any other chief whom they had feen on the Coaft of America. 3*7 . In the afternoon Captain Douglas took the long-boat and ran acrofs the channel, to an ifland which lay between the fflip and the village of Tatanee, and invited the chief to be of the party; who, having feen him pull up the wild parfley and eat it, he was fo attentive as to order a large quantity of it, with fome falmon, to be fent on board every morning. • ft' Ait fix o'clock in the morning of the 23d, finding the ground to be bad, they ran acrofs the channel to a fmall harbour, which is named Beal's Harbour, on the Tartanee fide; and at ten dropped anchor in nineteen fathoms water, about half a cable's length from the fflore; the land locked all round, and the great wooden images of.Tartanee bore Eaft, one quarter North; the village on the oppofite fflore bearing South half Weft.—This harbour is in the latitude of 540 18' North, and longitude 2270 6' Eaft.—It was high water there at the change, twenty minutes, paft midnight; and the tide flows from the Weftward, fixteen feet perpend! - 3&8 VOYAGES TO THE pendicular.—The night tides were higher, by two feet, than thofe of the day. The three following days were employed in purchafing {kins, and preparing to depart; but as all the flock of iron was expend-d they were under the neceffity of cutting up the hatch-bars and chain-plates. On the morning of the 27th, as foon as the chief returned, who had gone on fflore the preceding evening, to get a freffl fupply of provifions, Captain Douglas gave orders to unmoor, and a breeze fpringing up, at ' half paft nine they got under way, and fleered through Cox's channel, with feveral canoes in tow.—-At eleven, having got out of the ftrength of the tide, which run very rapid, they hove to, and a brifk trade commenced with the natives, who bartered their fkins for coats, jackets, trowfers, pots, kettles, frying-p^ns, waffl-hand-bafons, and .whatever articles of a fimilar nature could be procured, either from the officers or the men ; but they refufed to-take any more of the chain-plates, as the iron of which they were made proved fo brittle that it broke in their ma- nufaduring of it.—The lofs of the iron and other articles of trade, which had been taken out of the fflip by the Spaniards, was now very feverely felt, as the natives carried back no fmall quantity of furs, which Captain Douglas had not the means of purdhafing. This tribe is very numerous ; and the village of Tartanee ftands on a <very fine fpot of ground, round which was fome appearance of cultivation ; and in one place in particular it was evident #hat feed had been lately fown.—In all probability Captain Gray, in the floop Wafhington, had fallen in with this tribe, and employed his confiderate friendfhip in forming this garden; but this is mere matter of conjecture, as the real fad could not be learned from the natives. From the fame benevolent "fpirit NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, fpirit Captain Douglas himfelf planted fome beans, and gave the natives a quantity for the fame ufeful purpofe ; and there is little doubt but that excellent and wholefome vegetable, at this time, forms an article of luxury in the village of Tatanee. This people, indeed, were fo fond of the cookery pradifed on board the Iphigenia, that they very frequently refufed to traffic with their fkins, till they had been taken down to the cabin, and regaled with a previous entertainment. The weather had been fo thick and hazy, fince they had quitted Nootka Sound, that it was impoffible to get a fight of the moon or ftars for the purpofe of making an obfervation ; Captain Douglas, therefore, was under the neceffity of reducing the longitude of the different places which he vifited, from the obfervations he had made during his voyage of the preceding year. The Iphigenia now proceeded on her way to the Sandwich Iflands, and without the intervention of any occurrence that "merits a particular relation;—and'it appeared on the iSth of July, by a medium of feveral r* J J J Saturday i obfervations, that fire was in the longitude of 2060 20'. And at fun-rife of the 20th, the extremes of Owhyhee bore from North Eaft by North, to South half Eaft, two leagues off fflore. The fecond vifit of Captain Douglas to thefe iflands had we'll nigh completed the misfortunes of his voyage;—as a plan had been formed by the chiefs of Owhyhee to cut him off wkh his crew, and then to rob and deftroy the fhip.—Indeed it was in a great meafure owing to the manly and prudent eondud of Captain Douglas that this fcheme, which was regularly formed and adjufted, proved abortive.—This defign was to have been executed on board the Iphigenia; and the treacherous chiefs, who were to have taken the lead in the bufinefs, had already introduced them- 3A VOYAGES TO THE felves into the fflip.—One of them had got a piftol, others held daggers in. their hands; and, as it may be fuppofed, all were, in fome way or other, fecretly armed, becaufe, as it afterwards appeared, each had his allotted par£ to perform in the intended maffacre. The king's elder brother and Aropee . had engaged to kill Captain Douglas ;—Pareeonow was appointed to ftapd Mr. Adamfon, the principal officer;—Terreametee, the younger brothjs^ of the king, was to perform the fame inhuman office for the boatfwain, and the other chiefs had each his murderous work affigned him ; which being compleated, a fignal was to have been given for the natives, who lay in their canoes, to get on board, and to throw all that-remained alive into the fea.—The veffel was then to have been pulled in pieces, and carried up into the mountains, in order to prevent any fufpicions of what had happened from alarming fuch ftrangers as might vifit the ifland^ any future period. Such was the account which Tianna gave to Captain Douglas, with tears and lamentations, of the intended tragedy, in which, though he could not prevent the defign, he refufed to co-operate, and had employed his fervant to give notice of it; but the man had- been fo clofely watched by fome or other of the chiefs, that he had not found an opportunity to make the purpofed communication. m When, however, Captain Douglas faw the chiefs armed, and found , that the queen had been fecretly conveyed away from the fhip : he began to fufped mifchief and aded accordingly. He took care, in the firft place, not to betray any figns of apprehenfion or alarm ; and very properly conceiving that if he fflould call his people up to prevent the apparent danger, it might drive the infidious people to fome ad of defpair that might produce very fatal cohfequences to the {hip,—he determined to try a more tranquil method ; and, under various pretences, NORTH WEST CO AST. OF AMERICA, fences,' got a piftol from one of the chiefs, and a dagger from another, and being armed himfelf, he waited with impatience for the arrival of Tianna, who was on fhore, to determine in what manner he fflould finally proceed. In a very fflort time that chief came on board, and Captain Douglas taking him alone into his cabin and bolting the door, he infilled upon being informed concerning the intentions of the king and his people, when Tianna threw himfelf upon the floor, in an agony of diftrefs, and unfolded what has been already related,—laid the whole blame on the king, and recommended that he fflould be inftantly put' to death. Captain Douglas immediately jumped on deck, with a loaded piftol in each hand, which had fuch an effed on the chiefs, who were affembled there, that they quitted the fhip in an inftant, and drove their canoe fwiftly to the fflore. Such an hoftile and treacherous condud in the king andjiis attendants, as we have juft related, might be fuppofed to have broken off all intercourfe between the fflip and the natives ; but as it was abfolutely neeeflary to procure provifions for the future part of the voyage, an- humiliating apology was received from Tome-homy-haw, for what- had paffed, who laid all the blame on his chiefs; and a communication was renewed with the natives, which produced great plenty of hogs- and fruit, as well as bafs-rope, the latter article being provided on account of the miferable ftate of the cordage, &c. on board the fflip. On the 27th, Captain Douglas, after having left letters for myfelf Monday 3J and Captain Funter, in cafe either of us fhould touch at Owhyhee, quitted the ifland—Tome-homy-haw, to the laft, intreated forgivenefs, and exprefled the deepeft concern for the alarm which he and his chiefs had occafioned ; and Tianna, with all the fenfibility of an honeft and ingenuous mind, continued to lament it—Indeed, fuch was their condud and VOYAGES TO THE and behavionr when the momeut approached for the Iphigenia to depart, that there can be no doubt but that Britifh fhips will hereafter find in this ifland, all the comfort, protedion, and friendfhip, which Tome- homy-haw and Tianna may have it in their power to procure them. On the following day they came to an anchor in Witetee Bay, in the Ifland of Woahoo ; but every article of trade being now expended, the armourers were ordered to cut up the rudder chains, in order to pur- chafe the provifions with which feveral canoes had come laden from the.fflore. After touching at the other iflandsfor water, yams, &c. on the loth Monday 10 of Auguft, they quitted the Sandwich Iflancjs, and made fail to the Weftward. - On the 4th of Odober, without having met wkh ar^MAitervening occurrence of particular curiofity, apprehenfion, or good fortune, that would juftify a defcription, they faw the Coaft of China ; and, on the following day, the Iphigenia, after her long and various voyages, and'aM^ the dangers as well as interruptions encountered in them, arrived fafe, " and came to an anchor in the roads of Macao. THE END. E S Route of the Felice, ^Vahiatt^m „/• *z r* e,w variation ^Compass, and Meteorological Observations, d^g- /& Voyage. JV. 5. In thefe Tables, the Sitj the Variation as obferved fome T of the Ship, at Noon, is i of the fame Day. general fet down ; and '(&& "V. B L E I. J>e»» CA NTON 1 n Chi M, to ^.PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. Time. j jEy?* ' Eaft. Wind, Weather, and Remarks. 1788. X%. Mm. Beg. Mm. Deg.-Mi . jfas. 22 21 South Eaft, light breezes, and at times extremely foggy. 23 20 54 f Variab'e j light breezes, with frefli gales : cloudy, hazy, and at I times extremely foggy. 24 iS 54 1.5 8 ' 1 arjable; fqaally with hard rain: frefli breezes, with a great fea 25 18 !? 117 1 f E. N. E. and N. E. by E. gloomy and unpleafant, with a heavy" 26 17 5 118 0 T N. E. by N. and N. E. ftrong gales: during the night it blew'ex- 27 16 20 16 119 12 f Variable j a very high fea from the N.E. great quantities of rock- 1 weed and drift-wood. f N. E. and N. by E. frefli breezes and cloudy firft part, after- •j wards moderate and fine. Luconia N. N. E. to E. S. E. 12 or f Variable; moderate breezes and fine weather. Luconia N. N. E. -29 5 f Variable ; and fine weather. Land N. by E. to N. E. by E. 6 3° '5 "9 i leagues. f Variable;' frefli breezes and fine. Goat Ifland N. E. by N. 6 ■i leagues. Luconia N. by W. to S. E. 14 leagues. The Lu- 31 IT*3. 45 [ ban Ifles. JW. 1 12 59 ' J V^^TJr^^t^^Ui. Under 2 12 36 i the ftores of Mindoro. 4 10 - 8 53 5i N. E. Weather moderate. Panay N. E. by E. to S. E. 9 leagues. Variable; moderate breezes and fine. Panay 4 miles. 6 7 wrSdss^^p""' 7 7 8 f V-9- bk^light airs. At anchor at Fort Caldera, at Samboingan, 1 ( in Magindanao. 8 6 58 12a 28 | . fultry. Near the; • W. S. W. and "W Tatee Iflands. W. N.W. pleafant breezes, and fine weather, with a large fwelt from the N. E. and very fultry. Paffed the Tattee Iflands. Variable; clofe and fultry; thunder and lightning; fqualls of rain-., Pafled the Freewill Iflands. Variable; light winds, fultry and fqually, with much,rain, thua-r der and lightning—Near the Freewill Ifland,, N D I X. TABLE II. continued. Route of the Felice frci 3 George's Sound, on the'N. W. 178a Jptil : 3 5C 3 '5 15 26 17 2 18 7 19 29 21 2 21 53 Longitude Variat. , Weather, and Remarks. I 2 30 I 2 30 Deg. Mm. Deg. M 137 IO r- 136 56 j i36 37 137 9 i37 59 '38 58 139 58 141 18 142 47 142 25 '42 55 144 25 145 37 146 35 145 15 146 30 147 58 146 3 P46 4 145 18 144 45 143 58 142 58 142 26 141 45 139 48 140 26 139 38 f S. E. light airs, with frequent fqualls. of rain; near the Freem L Iflands. 5 Variable; froriiN. E. to E. N.E. thick cloudy weather, very fultrj 6 and heavy fqualls of rain. N. E. moderate breezes, cloudy, fqually, and heavy rain. N. Eafterly, extremely tempeftuous, and very heavy rains. • N. E. very fqually, great rains, and much fea. N. E. moderate, cloudy; a great fwell from N. E. Variable, light breezes, fqualls of rain. N. Eafterly, fqually, with (bowers of rain. • N. Eafterly,. fqualls, much thunder, lightning, and heavy rain after, light breezes and fultry. Variable, light winds, flying-fliowers. Variable, light airs, clofe and fultry. N. Eafterly, fqually, hard rain, clofe and fultry.. N. N. E. fqually, hard rain. mdy, very fultry. N. Eafterly, ra E. N. E. light ;es, fine remel'y fultry. -eather sandfini 3 36 — { Variable light br< N. E. pleafant br Variable; freftbreezes, flying fhow.ei N. E. pleafant breezes, fqualls of rain N Eafterly, pleafant breezes and fine N> E. pleafant breezes, fine weather. N. E. pleafant breezes, fine weather.. N. E. frefli breezes,.fine weather; n N.E. cloudy, fqualls of rain. N. E. freft-breezes, much fwell, a heavy and conf rell from N.E. fjjl >f rain and cloudy. if birds feen about: light! rsand lazy. — { able'; clouds black and heavy, thunder and lightning; nu rous flocks of birds. Variable; freft. breezes, cloudy, thunder and lightmng, wn rery heavy fea and fome rain, with a temble.whirbvind. J A P P EN D I X. TABLE II. continued. ROUTE of the Felice front Sambo: r King George's Sound, on the N. W. Winds, Weather, and Remark t. 1788. April 3 Deg. 24 Mia. 56 24 44 27 28 28 14 58 29 5° 30 31 5 22 33 18 3-6 20 36 49 38 40 38 5i 39 21 4° 20 40 41 38 14 ,41 44 41 35 .&£. Mitt. 143 39 145 4i 146 12 148 37 151 50 154 19 *57 4 158 48 i59 36 167 - 168 48 171 26 175 10 196 28 ( N. E. ftrong bre< I 8 leagues. [ S. E. frefli breezes I abreaft, 5 or 6 1 3 N. W. ftrong bree W.N.W. ftrong j flocks of birds feei ;, with thunder, lightning and rain, and a s and clear;, land feen E. N. E. diftance line rain, thick and hazy. Two fmall iflatjH Ifle6. 1, ftea. I flocks ol ard gales and a he: f S. E. frefl r E. S. E. : I cold. Variable; ftrong gales and a large f" S. W. and S. S. E. ftrong gales, 1 hazy, and a heavy fea. Variable; fqually and conftantrai Eafterly; light airs, cloudy, and ! r Variable; light breezes, cloudy, I and fleet, and extremely cold; r W. N. W. ftrong gales, fqually, J flocks of birds and rock-weec nedit Lot 8 W ife Rock-w eed andfi le. dy, bu tpk afant weath er; rock- weed, flocks ofb lece of tim berfeen. faw re reed nd a reddifli fp» y rain and aver ycc nfufed fe a; p pafled a piece of drift wood. rW.N. \ ceedi W.andS. by E. 1 reat fea. N.W. very hard gak N D I ^ TABLE II. continued. Route of the Felice/™* Samboingan to Nootka, or King Gas Coast of America. 1788. Jpril 26 27 May Winds, Weather, and Remarh. 43 43. 44 45 Mm. 35 5° 33 19 Deg. M--tt. 200 13 204 36 209 36 204 2 De 45 46 207 45 46 5 212 5 1 46 44 217 1 47 48 48 45 10 59 219 9 223 22 226 57 49 28 229 22 49 28 223 22 49 28 49 49 32 230 52 49 35 49 _ 26 S. and S.W. by W. ftrong gales, fqually, and a great hollow fea S.W. ftrong gales, fqually, with rain. S. ftrong gales, hazy, and a heavy fea. S". S. W. ftrong breezes, foggy, and much fea. f W. N. W. fqually, with fliowers of rain and fleet; pafled a feconi I fpar. j W. N. W. and S. ftrong breezes, fleet and fmall rain ; moderat I and cloudy. 18 E. N. E. light bree: — S. S. W. fqually, tr — S. S. W. frefli bree: r W. N. W cloudy, 1 _ W. by N. fqually, w f W. by S. fqually , — i piece of drift woe s, fqually, and fome rain i and foggy; faw a whale all rain, frefli breezes, fc th fnow and hail; faw if fnow and hail. S. Wefterly; fqua Variable; fqually, r S. Wefterly; ver) { E. by S. 13 leagues, ■r S. E. by E. very heavy fqualls of J fea. Nootka Sound N. E. 12 K r S. by E. ftrong gales, fnow and hail. Entered Friendly Cove 1 King George's Sound, abreaft the village of Nootka. J N Route of the Fe: TABLE III. ca, or King George's So ierica, and back to Nootk ahwg the N. W. Coast of Time. Lot No tude rth. Longitude Eafl. Variat. Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 178J8. Deg. Mm. Deg. Mitt. Deg. Mm. Variable; light winds and clear. Breaker's Point N. W. half W. June 11 49 22 21 5 Half-way Point E. 3 leagues. 12 S. Eafterly; ftrong gales, heavy, rain and much fea-; off fhore 6 leag. E. Northerly; ftronggales, thick weather and conftant rains; en J3 ' tered Wicananifh Port;. remained till the 20th; weather ftormy. 20 48 In Port Cox, where we remained till the 28th. W. Northerly; pleafant and moderate; off the iflands of Barclay 29 39 Sound, and entered the ftraits of John de Fuca. | 3° Wefterly; moderate and. fine; Cape Flattery S. E. half E. 6 -. leagues; pafled the ifland of Tatootche. July 1 S. Wefterly; ftrong gales, hazy and rain; Cape Flattery N. N. W. off the fliore of Queenhithe. The ifle of Deftruaion 1 mile. 2 46 S. Wefterly; heavy rain; thick fog; heavy fea. Pafled Saddle Hill. S. Wefterly; frefh breezes, conftant rain, thick weather, and a 3 47^ great fwell from the Weftward. -'lari&i 47 — ^_ S. W. moderate, clear weather; faw Mount Olympus. 5 47 \ • 28 8 S.E.lightbreezes.clearweather; Mount Olympus N.N.E. 7 leag. Pafled Low Point and Shoal Water Bay, and Cape Shoal Water. 'Northerly; ftrong gales, a-great-fea. Pafled Cape Difappointment,5 6 46 10 135 34 into Deception Bay, and hauled out again, and pafled Quick, fand Bay, Cape Grenville, and Cape Look-out. '.- & 45 12 16 10 N. Wefterly; ftrong breezes & cloudy. C.Look-outE.byS.ialea. 8 10 N. Wefterly; light breezes, fair. *-':*J 46 34 S. Wefterly; fqually, with rain-. 10 47 49 18 30 N. Wefterly; fqually, with rain. Cape Beal N. by E. 10 leagues. * "*3 48 45 — Southerly; light breezes and pleafant. Entered Port Effingham, where we remained tilt the 20th. 20 48 4i '*4— S. E. light breezes; left Port Effingham. 2^, 48 45 N. Wefterly; frefh breezes; Port Effingham N. W. by N. 5 miles. 22 47 50 W. N. W. pleafant breezes; Breaker's Point N. W.; the Sugar Loaf, or Port Cox, W. N. W. 15 or 16 leagues. 23 48 36 Variable; light breezes; fmall rain. 24 49 40 S. Eafterly; thick and hazy; fmall rain. 25 49 38 . S.Eafterly; thick and foggy; King George's SoundE. N.E. 6" leag. Aug. 8 Sailed out of Friendly Cove. 9 49 ■ E. Southerly; frefli breezes; thick and foggy. Spoke to the ,. Princefs Royal of London, Captain Duncan. 10 E. by S. At Port Cox, where we remained till the 20th. 24 Returned to Nootka, where we remained till the 23 d September.- APPEND TABLE IV. Route of the Felice/™** Nootka, or King Geo* Longitude Eaft. j Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks, 1788. Deg. Min. . Deg. Mm. Sept. 23 47 33 24 25 26 45 43 42 30 44 2 231 27 228 31 225 16 27 28 29 Otl. 1 40 38 37 42 48 222 52 221 48 220 39 3 36 35 23 12 219 — 2l8 30 4 34 *5{ £21 39psr0b- 5 6 7 33 31 29 53 44 36 220 49 220 32 2l8 22 8 . 28 1 217 23 9 10 26 26 40 9 217 18 217463° 11 24 5° 2l6 30 40 ■ 12 22 41 214 34 J3 H 15 16 20 20 20 20 54 15 6 11 212 12 209 42 209 20 207 44 17 20 13 18 f" Northerly; a frefli breeze; failed out of Friendly Cove; a fref i gale, with much fea. Breaker's Point E. S. E. Entrance o [ Friendly Cove N, half Weft. N. Wefterly; frefli breezes. N. by W. pleafant breezes and cloudy. N. Wefterly, pleafant breezes and cloudy. N. W. and N. N. E. moderate breezes; fqually with fmall rain/ N. N. E. light breezes and cloudy, with flying fqualls of rain. Variable; light breezes and cloudy, with light flying fqualls of rain Variable; light airs; frequent'fqualls, with fmall ran. Variable; frequent fqualls and cloudy. Variable; frequent fqualls, with heavy rain. N. Eafterly; light breezs and clear. Variable; light airs and clear. Variable; ftrong gales, fqually, with much fea. N. Wefterly; frequent fqualls; fhowers of rain, and much fea. N. by W. pleafant breezes and clear. S. Wefterly f pleafant breezes and clear. Variable; light airs and clear. N. E. and E-. N. E. light airs, the breeze increafing: a large fwell from the N. E. E.N. E. frefh trade-wind and clear weather. E. N. E. frefli trade and cloudy. E. by N. pleafant trade and cloudy. E. by N. light trade and clear. E. byN. light trade and clear, intermixed with fqualls. Variable; fqually, with heavy rain, and hazy. Saw land from E. S. E. to W. N. W. diftant 6 leagues. In Toe-yah-yah Bay, at the ifland of Owhyhee. 9 55 9 22 8 55 8 36 — (' P P E N D I X. TABLE V. itthe Sandwich Islands, aid firm Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 23 24 25 28 29 31 Nov. 1 99 45 9° 44 93 42 90 40 87 45 48 168 9 48 164 50 49 166 54 d of Rai id fultry. Morotoi ft i, W. by N. 4 miles. if Mowee bore from hot and fultry. Oflfl W;bvWfaB a Mora Variable; pleafant breezes and fair. Paffed Woahoo. N. Eafterly; light breezes. At noon Atooi fromE. by S. to- W. by N. Oneeheow W. by N. 10 leagues. N. E. frefh breezes and fqually. At Wymoa Bay. N. E. ftrong gales. Steering for Oneeheow,' where we arrived at about 6 o'clock in the evening. E. N. E. moderate and fair. At Oneeheow. . E. N. E. frefh breezes and fair. Left the Ifland of Oneeheow. M N. E. frefli trade and cloudy. N. E. pleafant trade, and fome fmall rain. N. Eafterly; pleafant trade, with fome fqualls and fmall rain. N. Eafterly; fqually, with fome rain at noon; pleafant trade and Man J. E. and N. E. fqually w reral birds it the- Variable; fqually with hard rain E. S, E. and E. N. E. pleafant SeSSl ade and fair, noon fqually E. N. E. fqually, with frequent E. N. E.. fqually, with hard ft trade. E. N. E. frefh trade and pleafan fhowersof rain; at owers of rain; at 1 ; the night fqually uonpleafint- oon pleafant- vith rain; al- i rE 12 2°{ noon fine and pleafant. E. N. E.—N. E. and E. frefh.breezes, and cloudy. 11 E. N. E. frefh trade and fqually, with rain. 11 20 E. by S.— E. and E. N. E. pleafant breezes and fair. 10 35 E. by S. and E. N. E. fre(h trade and pleafant. IO 14 N.E. nearly; frefh breezes and fqually. E. N. E. light breezes; hot and fultry. 7 44 E. N. E. and E. S. E. light breezes and clear weathe* 635 E. S. E. and E. by N. light breezes and fair. A P P , -E N <D I X. T A B L E . V, continued. *&\sWE+fti>i&s.tAo®. 4ttzkc S'Aactn5tiJc« \swmt**, -anSfatn 1738. 29 3° Dec. 1 Latitude Longitude North, j Eaft. Deg. Mm. 20 48 21 42 n 3 20 31 20 40 Deg. Mm I46 3 H6 54 144 18 139 28 *39 3 139 20 137 o 136 0 J33 5* 130 54 127 46 124 54 122 20 121 20 "9 55 Eaft. ieg. Mitt. 6 16 5 57 5 39 I336 3 38 — { Winds, Weather, and Remarks. "*Mtreen"E.by s. andE. byN. light trade end fine-weatker. -Bjflfht'tlreezes; hot and fultry. ■S. B|ht-breezes and clear; at times cloudy. Variable | ftrong gales, with-a great fea. «. Wefterly; ftrong gales, with muoh.rain. EromW. S. W. toN. N. W. lighwbreezes and dtmdy. ■Ffeom N. *W; to E. by S. fqusHy, with frequent flioWe*. rMrS.- light airs, rain, much lightning, and a large fwell from [ the N. E. Variable-from E. S. E. to N. E. fqually, with rain. S. S.E. and-E.-S.-E-fqiiaHyf-withirain. VutU&Ae; flight bpeezes. E. light breezest heavy fqualls of rain, with a heavy fwell &G»theN. Em N-'-Jt. frtfh gales and cloudy, with fmall a-a'm. H. E. freflj gales; fqually with rain. N. Eaftetly,-Jfleafant breizesandcloudy. E. by N. ftrong gales and fqually, with rain at tines. N. Eafterly; light breezes; eonfiaat rai Saw feveral land birds. N. E. dark cloudy weather; hard fqualls, and conftant ra a great fea. Saw Botol Tobago Xima. ■E. N. E. frefli gales; fqually; fwell of the fea decreafing. Saw the Coaft of China- i&nbbereil in the roads of Macao, thick weather. APPENDIX. TABLE VI. WIphi-geni a from Samboingan to Cook's Rivers* ftk N.W.Coast a/America* Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 178.8 8. D*g-. Min. Zfej. ^». i 22 6 51 23 ■6 4'. 24 6 21 25 \'& 58 26 '-;£ 9 27 6 «B'- 28 ;pf 54 123-3S 29 5 35 124 33 s 4 18 126 21 2 i^ l| 126 4 ;f4 H to. 126 49. Is 2 49 127 21 f^j 3 20- 128 9 6 7 8 3 3 3 45 35 129 7 129 48 13° 34 9 3 j£jj 131 4 Moderate breezes and fair; at night fome rain. Left Sambeiit- gan; Ifland of Baflelanfrom S.E. by E. to S.W. by W. ; San- ta Cruz E. S. E. half S. and another, ifland. E. S. E. being iiw "L mid channel; feveral other r N. Wefterly.; light breezes; ( bore from W. S. W. to W. r Variable; light airs. At fun-fi "J. N. N. W. halfW. 23 Xeagii r Light breezes and fultry, hot N. W. 10 leagues the Eaft end of Bafilan I> 20 leagues. t Bafilan bore N. W. an Land from N. to E. offiT ' At noon Maginda- i.W. byW, {Light airs and calms. At noon Magindanao bo to S . E. byE. off fhore 4 or 5 leagues. f~ N. E. moderate breezes with fqualls, and a heavy rain. At day. j- light 3 iflands in fight, from N. E. by N. toE. N. E. E. S. E V and S. E. By E. 6 leagues. At noon Morotay S. by E. thi t_ Southernmoft of the Kabuangs S. S. W. half W. 5 or 6 leagues TN. Eafterly; moderate breezes with fqualls of rain.' At fun-fej ] to N. by W. diftant from the body of them 2 miles. At noon e-faw f Variable; frefli- breezes; cloudy and fqually. Saw: L rife, bearing 8. 8 or 9 leagues. 2 15 W North; a fteady breeze* N-. Eafterly; pleafant breezes and fair. N. Eafterly; pleafant breezes and fair. r Ditto wind and weather. At 3 P. M.Jkw a.fmall ill I E _faalf N; diftant 10 or 12 leagues. P E N D I X. TABLE m continued. S.OM*E ,»f the lPKJtSE*m. j& Samboingan, fo Cook's River, an theti. W. Coast ./ America. 17/88. April 8 c^. Mm. 13 5o 14 5i 15 26 16 27 19 2i 20 27 25 28 26 42 «7 4i a8 53 29 29 28 ^29 47 29 j 3° I May 1 132 27 132 9 itJi-58 13* 18 131 12 130 41 130 6 Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Ren 130 9 129 53 130 57 *s* 3 J33 32 134 25 *34 54{ r35 * 53o «3? 2 3° ° 30 21 j 3° 5o 3-i '26 13-8 24 439 x* 141 13 143 30 .144 17 ^45 *4 I *47 35 Deg. Mm. Moderate and cloudy with rain. ■ ■ . 'Jg* N.E. pleafant weather. 1 54 N.E. light breezes, fair weather with a heavy fwell. E. N. E. a fteady breeze. 2 30 A mode-rate breeze and fair weather. N. and E. a frefli breeze, with fqualls of rain and a heavy fea. 2 O Pleafant, weather. —— Light winds with rain. A number of boobies flying about the (hip. f Variable And light winds; * frefh breeze at N. E. Several bird*! er Am. N. E. moderate breezes and cloudy. N. and E. a frefli breeze. A fmall land bird about the fliip Frefh Eafterl/"brtezes and hazy. __ S. a fteady breeze. W. S. W. to N. by E. afinetrceze; Equally at times. _ .Northerly; pleafant weather. *A* J ^" **• E'-pkafant weather. Paffed a.great.quantIt]r..Qf &&■ „_. S. J5. moderate and fair. .__ Moderate and hazy. Saw a great quantity ofland-birds and .r Eafterly; frefli breezes; hazy, with fame rain. Several fw _ < flying about the fhip, and a linnet, which moden fttip. .Eafterly; frefli breezes and hazy. [ pic-birds, and boobies flying ab I Eafterly; frefh breezes and hazy. I ent fpecies flying about the fhip. Which had remained with V number of birds about the 8 ■ f Ligh of fea-w APPENDIX. TABLE VI. continued. Route of the Iphigenia from Samboingan to Cook's River,- on the NA Time. Latitude North. Longitude Eaft. Vm-iat. Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remark*. 1788. Deg. Min. Deg. Min j Deg. Min. 3% 5 32 28 149 2 .__ fS. S. E. to N. W. and a heavy gale. Pafled a 1 weed, and a number of birds about the (hip. quantity of fea- 8 32 II S2 51 33 36 J5° 34 150 28 150 38 Northward; ftrong breezes, clear weather. f Light hreezes and clear pleafant weather. Saw k fnake and two 9 .-*..— 151 29 . Light winds and hazy. Saw feverat pair of wild lucks. 152 6 ■ E. and S. frefli breeze and hazy. 12 35 38 154 4i 156 19 . Northward; moderate clear weather. 13 14 15 16 17 35 5 36 15 37 29 38 7 39 4 160 30 162 18 163 44 165 35 165 49 |9S^ra. Ditto. Moderate and fair. S. S. E. frefh breeze and cloudy. S. W. frefli breeze and hazy. W. by S. moderate, cloudy. 18 l9 41 34 168 14 !7° .57 —— . S. E. blowing hard; thick weather, rain. S. S. E. to N. W. ftrong gales, hard fqualls, a hea y fwell. Paffed 20 21 42 27 43 46 172 56 174 26 ^^^2^^ " ' ^ . At 9 A. M. -22 45 Jo '77 3 ffl { 23 24 25 26 27 28 47 25 48 41 50 26 17S 5i 178 51 181 3 183 5 185 13 187 23 ££25£& 29 188 2 f I 3° 50 29 188 26 z{ 3i r«»" 1 3 50 58 51 49 i$o 19 193 32 J9723 201 7 ZS^Sl^^T^"~ 4 54 32 202 29 I drM APPENDIX. TABLE VI. continued. Route B/fA* Iphigenia/™ <o Cook's River, on the N.W.Coast s/Ameu Longitude Variat. Eaft. Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks, JuneS Deg.Mttt. 56 .29. Deg. Min. 204 54 56 26 205 36 206 17 56 56" 205 1 36 56 .4& 205 5 Vf. 45 206 6{ 56 58 59 1 206 3 206 40 207 33 r E. Northerly; a frefh breezj At g P. M. 1 (from Cape Trinity, E. N. E. to N. W. by W. the neareft land diftant 6 leagues. At 6 A. M. Cape Trinity bore N. E. about ftant from the body of the le; about 5 A. M. 1 /Eafterly; light breezes and fair weather. The ifland which I 1 took for Trinity Ifland lies off the mouth of a large bay. lofKodiackbo and bore from E. by N. to S. E. by E. half J f the coaft from N. by W. to N. E. by E. < jolly-boat on fhore. "A light breeze. The jolly boat returned. ("S.W. a frefh breeze with a fog. At 5 A. M. faw Cape Grevill J bearing W. 9.leagues. At noon Cape Whitfundaybore W half S. and th L Hermogt remained till the 29 th. d from the Ifland of St. Iflands into Cook** A P P E N D I TABLE VII. i of the Iphigenia from Cook's River to Nootka, or N. W. Coast of America. Latitude I Longitude North. I £*/?. #W.r, Weather, and Remarks. June 7"ty 59 18 59 47 -( Frefh breeze; has J N" Eaft«;-"d; moderate breeze; hazy and rain. A I Ae ifland of St. Hermogenes bore S. W. diftant 7 d N. N. E. frefli 1 from N.E. toS. W. 1 At 10 A. M. leagues. M. the body of the Barren ; fqually and rain, with an us. At 5 A M. wind S. E. {N. Eafterly; frefli breezes; fqually and rain, tremitiesof land bore from N. half E. to W. :s and fair weather. At noon the extremities of Montagu's Ifland bore from N. by E. toN. byW. N. Eafterly; frefli breezes and fair. At noon furrounded with E.S. £ .light breezes. Paffed betw een Montague Ifland and the Light Cov Light broke bore S. S. E. and the N At anchor in Snug Corner calm and cloudy. Cape Hin- E. end of Montague Ifland Mor hinbrokeN. W. byW. 8 or erate breeze and clear. At bore from W.N. W. to N. e Ifland W. N. W. diftant At noon the extremes of half W. to W. byN. Cape noon the extremities of the E. byN. Ihe body of Mon- from the main land 5. .or < L-ii J E N D I X. TABLE VII. continued. King George's Sot Cook's River to Nootk/ N.W. Coast o/Amerk Winds, Weather, and Remarks. - of the cc ariable; ; j-S.andE.1 I half E. c f E. and E. by N. frefli breezes. At 11 P. M. ft blowed very hard I and a heavy fea. TE. N. E. cloudy and hazy weather. About 3 A. M. the wind j fhifted to the N. ftrong gales, heavy fqualls, and thick weather., ■j At 1 P. M. faw Kaye's Ifland, the S. end bearing N.W. byN, ' I diftant 10 leagues. N. E. ftrong gales, with heavy fqualls. (" N. E. light airs with calms. In the morning the wind S. W. I. E. light r Light airs and calm. At { N. N. E. half E. to N. P. M. wind N E. and to E. At 5 A.M. I. At noon light winds from E. S. E. At 6 A. M. faw land, the extremities from iftant off fhore about 14. leagues, ight breeze. Steering in for the 11 le Northward of Beering's Bay. ith light airs. At noon calm and hazy, a light breeze. Sent the long-boat oh fhore. ftrong, with heavy rain. Hoifted in the long-boat. I in-rife E. and E. by N. At noon light winds; the es-H. of tfte land from N. W. to E. S- 8. diftant from fhoreJI APPENDIX. TABLE VII. continued. IRoute of the Iphigenia from Cook's River to Not N.W. Coast of Am Time. Latitude 1 North. Longitude 1 Eaft. j Vafiat. Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 1788. 1 Deg. Mm. Deg. Min. Deg. Min. 1 ' N. W. firft part a trifle gale. At 3 P. M.' dropt anchor in Port Meares. Latitude of the fhips at anchor 54° S1' and by feveral Aug.l$ 1 54 51 227 54 — 1 obfervations of the fun and moon the longitude was 427° 54'. ' Remained in Meares's Bay till the 21 ft. ' At 3 P. M. weighed anchor and flood to fea, at S. E. with a 21 54 * 228 4 "I frefh breeze from the Weftward. At noon the extremes of L land bore from E. by N. half N. to W. by S. ■Weftward; a fteady breeze. At 8 P. M. failed round a low point titude, and in 128* 39' E. longitude. At 9 P. M. dropt anchor 3 or 4 miles from the ifland; the extremes of which bore 22 53 .55 229 30 from N. by W. to S. E. by E. half E. At 6 A. M. weighed anchor. At noon light winds, calm, and clear; the extremes' of the ifland bore from N. N. W. to S. half E. diftant 8 or 9 [ leagues; the continent from E. by S. to N. N. E. diftant 9 'Variable; light winds. At 9 A. M. by 5 obferved diftances of 23 { 17 43 perAz. the fun and moon, the longitude was 230° 16'E. the extremes- of the continent bore from N. W. by N. half N. to E. by S. 24 51 46perAc. 230 21 N. W. to S. S. E. At midnight a thickfog, with rain. 25 Weftward ; thick and foggy. At noon windS. with a thick fog. " Light winds. At 8 P. M. Wind fhifted to W. and clear weather. j At fun-rife faw land, bearing N. E. by E. diftant 10 leagues." 26 49 42 232 38 I < At 10 A. M. wind N. W. and encreafed to a ftrong gale. At half paft 9 A. M. got feveral diftances of the fun and moon, whichmadethe longitude 232° 38'E. At noon a ftrong gale,, 2 fleering E. N. E. r N. W. a ftrong gale. At 7 A. M. Captain Meares came off in a 27 canoe, with fome of the natives, and piloted us into Friendly; 1 Cove, where we remained till the 2 7 th Oflober. Route of tbelpui< Time. Zajj tude z w, Variat. North. iaft, Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 1788. Deg. Min. Deg. Min Deg. Min. f Eaftward ; a light breeze. At noon made a fignal for the N. W. oa. 27 j Americu t0 S'et under way- We were towed out of Friendly (. Cove, to proceed on our way to the Sandwich Iflands. fE.andN.E. by E. At 4 P.M. fqually, with hail. Moft of the 28 49 3 232 26 i night winds light and variable. In the morning wind S. E. L with fqualls of hail and rain. 29 48 i3 231 28 Eaftward; ftrong gales and fqualls. At 7 A. M. a heavy fea. J"E.S.E. moderate wind, with aheavy fwell. At 3 P. M. wind S. 3° 47 39 230 13 . •j At 6 A.M. wind N. Weftward.'. At noon N. W. a fteady I gale. 31 45 38 229 28 N. W. frefh gales and cloudy. At 11 A. M. wind S. E. Nov. 1 45 5° 229 36 Southward ; ftrong ga'es. At 2 A. M. heavy fqualls. r W. S. W. ftrong gales. At 9 A. M. wind S. E. and moderate \ weather. 2 46 ^^ 229 48 228 44 | S. E. moderate weather. At 8 P. M. wind N. W. With a fine 3 45 iii^ I fteady breeze. 4 44 *s per Ac. 229 4 f S. W. by W. cloudy. At 8 P. M. wind S. and fqually. At 10 1 ' windW. S. W.; afterwards variable. 5 6 43 51 229 33 , W. ftrong gales, and Violent fqualls. 42 51 23° 34 S. W. ftrong gales, and heavy fqualls. R'F- !?»/ 57 231 1 ' S. W. moderate and fair. At 6 A. M. wind S. At 8 wind S.W. f Variable; light winds, with rain. At 10 P. M. wind Northward,- <■ frefh gales and clear weather. If 8 40 61 229 50 9 40 IvjT '228-50 N. W. moderate and fair. At midnight wind S. W. 39 29 227 45 S. E. light winds and pleafant weather. 38 37 49 22651 15 2 per Am. S. E. to N. E. pleafant. 12 55 225 37 N. and Eaftward; moderate breezes and cloudy. r N. E. a fteady breeze. At 8 P. M. got feveral diftances of the ftar J3 36 5° 222 32 14 1S 35 33 51 22 220 35 218 42 — Eaftward; frefli breezes and cloudy, with flying fqualls of rain. Eaftward; frefh breezes and finally. f From S. E.' to S. W. and N.E. Firft and latter parts frefli breezes 16 33 15 217 38 ' r N. E. to W. moderate and cloudy. At 9 P. M. fqually. At 8 i7 32 46 216 39 I A. M. calm. At 11 A. M. a light breeze from the South- 1 4g TABLE VIII. continued. i of the Iphigenia andN. W. America Schooner, from Nootka, or Kino Georoe's Sound, to the Sandwich-Islands, Longitude Variat. Eaft. Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks, Nov. 18 19 Deg. Min. 31 4i 3° 25 29 24 29 6 28 41 28 26 28 28 27' 56 27 37 26 36 25 38 24 57 22 57 21 59 Deg. & 215 209 i 205 : 209 ! 208 5 207 1 206 1 207 I 208 : 208 j f Southward; light winds, with rain. At midnight variable, with » \ heavy fqualls of wind and rain. At 2 A. M.^ind N. N.W. a. 1^ frefh gale, with lightning. At noon fair. Northward; a fteady breeze and cloudy. _ ' Southward and Eaftward; moderate and cloudy. Am. S. S. E. pleafant. rAm. S. S. E. moderate and fair: / S. S. E. frefh breezes; fqually, with rain. Saw feveral gullSM I and a grampus. f S. Eaftward; frefh gales; fqually, with rain. At 8. A.M. wind|| ". I S. S. W. f S. W. frefh, with fqua 0 24perAm.j" S. E. and S. E. by S. frefli breezes and fqually. Wind and weather as yeflerday. S. S. E. and S. by E. At midnight it blew a frefh gale. S. and S. by E. moderate and cloudy. Southward; fight winds and cloudy. S. S.E. and E. S. E. light winds, and pleafant weather. E. and E. S. E. frefh breezes. E. S. E. frefli breezes. Frefh gales and cloudy. At midnight rain. At 1 A. M. fqt ally. At day-light faw Owhyhee, the W. end" bearing S. S.W. hree - quarters W. diftant 9 or 10 leagues. Mowee W. difta " leagues. At 10 A. M, off the ifland off Mowee. A P P END I X. TABLE IX. continued. Route»/7foIphigenia <WN. W.America Schooner, at the Sandwich-Islands. Longitude Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Dec. 29 1789- Jan. 1 Moderate. At 6 P. M. Body of Woahoo N. N. W.; Morotoi E. N. E. Off a fine bay on the N. fide of Morotoi, where we had 8, 7, 6, and 5 fathoms, 1 mile off fhore. Moderate weather. Made fail for Woahoo. At fun-fet the ej tremes of Woahoo bore W. by S. to W.N.W.; Morotoi S. ] half E. to E. half N. At 8 A. M. fpoke with Captain FUnte At 9. A. M. failed for Woahoo. At noon Woahoo bore "V\ to N. W. by N. 2 miles ; Morotoi E. S. E. Moderate and fair. Working round the S. E. fide of Woahoi 'At midnight a ftrong gale. At day-light Woahoo bore N. byW. to W. byN.off fhore 4 miles. At 9 A.M. clofe in with the fhore. Southward and Weftward; frefli breezes, with rain. At 4 A.M. wind Eaftward, and clear,' moderate weather. At noon dropt anchor 3 miles from a village', and about 2 from a bay, which the natives call Witetee Bay, on the S. E. fide of Woahoo. ftainedti! 10th, w n Captain Fun South erly cloudy, with rain. At 4 P.M. flood off between Morotoi and Woahoo bore E. half N. t S.W. half W . off fhor The ale :ontinued till 8 P. M. when -the {•-«JTo rthw ard, and irought moder ate weatl 1 droptan chor in Witete 1 Bay. -fo " Wind from the land ; very heavy fqualls-of wind and -ra Morotoi and Woahoo. At fun -rife the body of M01 N. N.E.andRanaiE. - * At fun-rife the extremes of Woahoo bore N. W. by W to W. by S. off fhore 4 or 5 leagues. At noot fchooner, W. half S. diftant 4 miles. Kept off ai Ifland of Woahoo till the 25th, during which tiine S. W. at 4 P. M. with an appearanc : 3 P. M. weighed and flood 01 ht ftill within the point. The t N.W. byW. off fhor ofa lies. i of Woahoo E. by S. APPENDIX. TABLE IX. continued. Route of the Iphigenia aud N.W. America Schooner, at the Sandwich Ilands. Time. Latitude North. Longitude Eaft.- Eaft' Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 1789. Deg. Min. Deg. Min. Deg. Min. fVariable; light airs and calms at times. At fun-rife Owhyhee March 1 20 6 • 1 bore from N. N.E;, half E. to S. S. E. off fhore 6 leagues. At " \ noon the current had fet us to the Weftward, about 10 leagues 2 — from the Owhyhee fhore. • Firft part light airs and calm; latter, a pleafant breeze, and clear weather.- At noon Owhyhee bore from N. half W.to S.E. by S. . , diftant from the fhore 2 leagues. ' At 4 P. M. dropt anchor in TirowaBay, where we remained till . the sth. The latitude of the (hip at anchor was 19° 41'N. - A breeze off land. At midnight got under way; and at noon the 9 20 31 E. end of Mowee bore N. E. by E. half E.; Tahoorowa from L N.byE.toN. W. halfN. ' A frefh trade wind. At day-light Woahoo bore from N. by E. 10 to N. W. half W. At 6 A. M. wind variable ; heavy rain. 11 *■ At 11 dropt anchor off Witetee Bay. Light airs and variable. Off ditto. ■ Frefh breezes; with cloudy weatherand rain. At 1 A. M. made 12 —— j fail for Atooi. At day-light Woahoo bore from E. by N. to 13 14 . N. N. W. half W. diftant 3 leagues. - N. N. E. a frefh gale. At midnight dropt anchor 2 miles E. of the anchoring ground, off Atooi. Light winds, and variable. Off Atooi. - Wind off the land. At 3 P. M. got under way for Oneeheow. 15 At noon the extremes of Oneeheow bore from N. half E. to S. . Off fhore 4 miles. 16 . =• Frefh breezes off land. Off Oneeheow. f Off Oneeheow. A P P E N D I X. TABLE X. .oute of the Iphigenia and N. W. America Schooner, fromthe Sandwich-Isla: Nootka, or King George's Sound. 1789. March 18 April 1 29 54 3i 8 4 5 36 36 *• 6 37 £ 7 38 3 8 9 39 41 36 5 198 54 197 16 197 16 197 16 196 51 196 7 i96 37 197 49 199 34 200 27 200 58{ 201 19 201 47 204 10 205 56 208 15 210 13 213 13 215 41 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Deg. Min. ' '. ~ ! j-N.E. At fun-fet made fail; the extremes of Oneeheow bore front I E. half N. to N. N. E. diftant 3 1 eagues. 1 Moderate and fair. At 3 A. M.faw land. At 4 pretty clofe up with it. At day-light this ifland or rock, which bears the form of a faddle, was named Bird Ifland; it lies in the latitude of 23° 7"N.andi98» 10'E. N. N. E. pleafant weather. 34 per Az. Frefli trade winds, with fqualls of rain. ■ Pleafant breezes and fair. —<— N. N. E. a fteady trade wind. f Moderate and cloudy weather. At midnight the wind drew round S. E. moderate,.and ».r rVarial ' 1 of I weather. Several gulls flying about d pleafant weather. At 10 P.M. wind N.E; A number Variable; light winds. At 1 rds flying about the fhip. noderate and cloudy weather. In the night, wind variable, t with fqualls of rain. f Firft and middle' parts moderate and cloudy. Latter part wind r Weftward; a frefh gale. At half paft 2 P.M. got feveral fets of lu- ( nar obfervations ; by their medium the fhip was in 206° 4' E. Northward; ftrong gales' with heavy fqualls. . Numbers.cj&birds -{ flyins * Northward and Weftward;. fir f Found the current had fet us j our latitude by obfervation. d fqually, withi 1 S. frefli breezes and cloudy. lg gales, with heavy fqualls. ,0' by R. R. to the Northward of I Frefh-gales TABLE X. continued.. Route of the Iphigenia. andU. W. America Schooner,/-o« the Sa to Nootka, er King George's Sound. Longitude Eaft. ■ Winds, Weather, and Remark*. April i (46 5 per Ac 47 53 49 7 49 44 222 34 223 59 225 13 226 42 228 6 228 4 230 o 231 23 •iable, v ■ainy, hazy weather. At 10 A. M, wind N. witli Strong gales, with hazy weather. W. N. W. heavy fqualls At 5 A. M. a perfect h At 6 P. M. moderate. S. Weftward; moderate and hazy. t Firft part light widds. Mi r Strong gales, with hi \ one diftance of the id latter, a frefh breeze, with, in and hail". At 7 A. M. got Variable, with frequent fhowers of hail. Saw the Coaft of America, extending from N. halfE. to E. N. E. diftant so leagues. Light winds and variable, with cloudy weather. At fun-fet the extremes of land bore'from N. W. by N. to E. halfN. diftant- 10 leagues. At noon calm; Land from N. W. by W. to. E. half S.; the entrance of Nootka N. 75" E. diftant 8 leagues. I j. At 11 A. M. dropt anchor in Friendly Cove, where we were de- I tained till the aft of June. T A ] Route of the IPHiGENiA/row Nootka 1789. \Deg. Min.'Deg. Min.-Deg. Min June 1 j or King Georg ch Islands. . Safeco 50 42 5i 33 230 29 229 37 :rd. At fun-fet Nootka Sound bore N. half W. diftant ! leagues. thick hazy weather. Nootka Sound bore N. E. half E. dy Point bore N.W: "Lance's Iflands W. light winds, fair weather. At 7 P. M. the Wefternmofir -r T —ce's Ifland bore E. by S. At noon Cape St. James bore N. diftant 16 or 17 leagues. f" S. E. frefli breezes and hazy. Atfun-fet Woady Point J by N. diftant 2 leagues; and the Wefternmoftof Lar I N. by E. diftant 5 leagues. p S. W. light winds, fair weather. At - P M .u- -.> J of Lam \ W.by APPENDIX. TABLE XI. continued. i ofthelp-aiGS.viiA.from Nootka, or King George's Sound, afeeondTime, to the Longitude Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks, 1789. 'June 5 229 o 229 15 54 46 :r. At fun-fet the Southern extremity ind bore W. half N. 12 leagues. At Charlutte's Ifland bore fromW. N. W. gues. At noon thick fog at 3g, and heavy rain. At 6 A. M. faw At 11 ditto faw a fmall barren ifland. At 3 P. M. out of fight of the ifland, number of fmall iflets" and rocks. At > P. M. dropped : 9° 16'; CapeMur toS.S.W.difh L bore W. by N. f Cloudy and rain-. I At 6 A. M. the extrem 7.; Queen Charlotte's 7 P.M. dropt anchor ngitude 2280 3'.where -eather. At half paft 8 nchor abreaft of Fort longitude E.; Cape 1 Mount St. Lazaro- ies of land bore from s from S. S. E. zy. Port Meares e land from Cape ffland named Cap (^Charlotte's If Murray bore from N.E. e Irving, which, with Cape rt Meares. Cape Irving ;4"49'N.and 2Z7'43'E.; and bore S. by W. half W. loudy. At fun-i et Charlotte's Ifland bore I from N.E. half N. to W. byN. Alio P. I off M'Intire's Bay, which lies in 53 ' 58' N. a (• S. E. moderate and cloudy. At 7 A. M. weigh < fed Cox's Channel, between- (^Charlotte's II I off the N. W. end of it. 1 Weftward ; moderate breezes and cloudy. Sent foi federate and cloudy. P channel of Bei M. weighed and ftood.acrofs the rfiich lies tillthe 27th ("N.E. light winds. «f- ■i Cox's Channel. At noon L N.N.E. toE.S.E.halfl iS'N. and in P. M. made fail, and fleered through E. diftant 7 or 8 leagues. TA B L l of the IpHlGENlA/rswNooTK. E XI. continued. Z, or King George's Sound, afecondTim Longitude Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 1789. June 29 3° July 1 2 3 4 5 53 16 52 26 48 43 48 28 36 26 34 5° Deg. Min. jl Deg. Min. 225 3° f 46 53 j 225 41 25 54 j 219 23 218 12 216 47 215 23 216 36 209 11 208 13 207 10 f S. E. light winds, with hazy, cloudy weather.' At fun-rife Char- 1 lotte's Ifland boar N. E: by N. diftant 17 or 18 leagues. S. S. E. to S.W. moderate and cloudy. Variable, with hazy, rainy, fqually weather. S. W. frefh breezes and hazy. S. W. hazy weather. Latter part fqually, with a frefh breeze. Frefh breeze, with a thick fog. Latter part clear. N. N. W. a fteady breeze, with fair weather. Wind and weather as yefterday. {'N.W. frefli breezes. Paft a quantity of rock-weed. Saw feveral birds on the wing, of the plover kind, fome whales, and a ■ number of black ducks. r S. W. and W. S. W. light winds and cloudy weather. Saw \ large quantities of rock-weed, and a number of birds. N. W. frefli breezes,' and fqually. Moderate weather and cloudy. N. E. a fteady trade-wind, and cloudy. A fteady trade-wind, and cloudy. Ditto. . A fteady breeze und clear. In the morning got feveral fets of j diftajwes of the fun and moon, the mean of which was 212 ° 58'. Pleafant trade wind, with elear weather. r E. N, E. to S. E. fight winds. At half paft 9 A. M. by feve- 1 ral fets of obfervations, the longitude was 2060 20'. {Moderate breezes, with flying fqualls of rain. At day-light Mowee bore S. W„ half W. diftant 23 leagues; Owhyhee I S. W. by W. 28 leagues At noon the extremes of Owhyhee - bore from S. byE.to S.W. diftant 16 leagues. Mowee W. by S. c Pleafant breezes, with fair weather. At fun-rife the extremes'of diftant 4 or 5 league E. N. E. a fteady bree ■eftaidtill the 27th. Is. Middle and latter part frefh trade. At 1 of Woahoo bore from W. by N. to'N.N.W. At 4 P. M. dropt anchor i _jy, in which, and amongft the other Sandwich Iflands, we 1 flaid till the 12th of Auguft. A P P E *T D I X. TABLE XII. Route of the Iphigenia/™*"*£« Sandwich Islands to Chi. I Eaft. J Eaft. 1789. Aug. 12 21 52 33 9 33 9 4i 0 28 180 4 178 36 177 26 9 32 9 53 0 26 177 3 '76 35 175 38 <&//. I — Deg. Mitt, 195 21 I9O 18 t88 57 187 3° 166 31 165 18 164 41 163 36 162 4 160 12 »58 6 Winds, Weather, and Remarks, E. N.E. a frefhtrade wine A fteady trade, wind, andc Light winds, and pleafant Ditto, and hot, fultry wea Light winds. Varying froi Cloudy; 1 A fteady tr Pleafant bi Light bree: Light airs, md fair. At midnight lightning all round the o A M. faw the appearance of land in the S. E, In the .night heavy fhowers of ra Variable; light airs, with flying fhowers. Ditto, with calms, ami light airs. Pleafant breezes, and fair. Moderate breezes ; hot andfultry. ' Light winds. At 3 P. M. got a fet of aftronomical obfervations,. which made the fhip in 169° of longitude, being upwards of 30 a-head of account. At 6 P. M. faw numbers of birdsin. flocks. Light winds, and cloudy. In the morning wind S. by E. with flying fqualls of rain. S. S. E. cloudy, with heavy fhowers of rain. Variable ; light winds. At 7 P. M. obferved the diftance of the of her; Squally, with thunder, lightning, and heavy rain. f Heavy fqualls of wind and rain, with peals of thunder; and much. 1 fio-htning. At 1 o A. M. faw hundreds of birds flying about- Frefh breezes, fqually,. and cloudy. APPENDIX. T A E:L % 'XJW. continued. Ro-UTtE of the lvHi&BtfiA.fromthe Sandwich Islands to China Time. 5£f Longitude. Edft. V.ariat. Eaft. . Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 1789. Deg. Min. Deg. Min Deg. Min. r Firft and middle part fqually. Latter, a fteady breeze from Sept. 6 21 17 156 18 ~ 1 the S. E. 7 21 5 154 36 Variable firft part. Middle and latter, fqually, with rain. j Frefli breezes, cloudy, and fqually. At 4 P. M. faw number* 8 J ,perAC' 152 17 of men of war bird?, and thoufands of boobies. A. freftf trade wind, with heavy fqualls. At 10 A.M. faw a 9 20 49 i^O 2 ^jflb flock of geefe to the Weftward. Saw likewife a grampus. ' Eaftward ; a fteady-trade-wind. At 4 A. M. obferved the dif 10 20 12 H7 13 tance of the ftar Aldebaran from the moon's neareft limb, which- made the fhip in longitude 1470 34'. "Frefh breezes, and clear. At midnight faw the Volcano Grande, bearing S.W. by W. diftant 8 or 9 leagues. At day-light made fail for the 3 Iflands of Urac, which bore W. by N. diftant 8 leagues. At 1 0 A. M. got feveral fets of lunar obfervations, 11 20 6 146 8 by the mean of which the fhip was in 146 ^ 8' longitude: at which time the body of the 3 iflands bore W. half N. diftant 2 leagues. At noon the centre of the 3 iflands was in 20" 19'N, latitude, and 146° 2'E. longitude; and theVolcanoin 190 30'N. - and in 146° 23'E. Moderate and clear. At 6 P. M. faw a barren rock, which we 12 20 12 H3 53 — 1 called Guy's Rock; it lies in 20° 30'N. lat. and 145° 52'E. longitude. J3 20 6 141 8 Strong gales, fqually, with rain. 14 20 l6 138 26 S. E. ftrong gales, with heavy fqualls of wind and rain. S. and S. S. E. frefh gales and heavy fqualls. At 10 A. M. got feveral diftances of the fun and moon, by the means of which the fhip was in 136° 13' E. longitude. At half paft 10 faw a NS 136 13 reef of rocks under our lee, extending about 3 miles, in a W. N. W. and E. S. E. direaion ; they lie in 20' 37' N. gerous. 16 21 21 per Ac. *35 9 S. W. ftrong gales, with rain. 17 22 33 J34 35 S. W. ftrong gales, and heavy fqualls.. 18 23 19 per Ac 133 57 Wind and weather as yefterday. *9 22 48 134 25 S. W. Firft part fqually, with rain. Middle and latter part clear. 20 21 47 134 20 { S. W. moderate breezes. Light winds and calms. For the laft 24 hours a number of land- 21 21 32 134 3 - birds about the fhip. « ^ APPENDIX. TABLE XII. continued. oute of the IPHiGENiA/rm the Sandwich-Islands to China. Time. Latitude Longitude Eaft. Variat North. "Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. I789. Deg. Min. Deg. Min. Deg. Min Sept. 22 21 28 I32 50 f Variable ; a heavy rain. Middle and latter parts a fteady breeze I from the Eaftward, with fair weather. 23 21 30 131 27 Squally, with rain. 24 21 29 13° 5 49 S. S. W. light winds, and pleafant. 25 21 32 129 18 Ditto. 26 21 25 128 9 —_ f Firft and latter parts light airs. Middle, a fine breeze from the 1 Eaftward. 27 21 12 126 52 A moderate breeze, and clear. 28 21 24 125 12 N. N. E. a fteady breeze, and pleafant. / N. N. E. a fteady breeze and clear. At half paft 7 P.M. by c J number of obfervations of the ftar Antares, W. of the moon, 29 22 22 122 23 j by the mean of which the fhip was in 124° 11 'E.latitude; Botol "■■ Tobago Xima bearing S. 730 W. diftant 17 leagues. 'f Moderate, and clear weather. At noon the extremes of Formofa 30 21 53 ■j bore from W. by N. half N. to N. W. byN. diftant 9 leagues 5 I-. Botol Tobago Xima N. E. diftant 7 leagues. (-Pleafant breezes, and fair. At fun-fet Formofa bore from J N. W. by N. to N. by E. diftant 3 leagues; the rocks of Vele oa. 1 21 49 j ReteS. S. W. diftant 3 miles; Botol Tobago Xima E.by N. *■ half N. diftant 15 leagues. v-dA 21 52 ■ i Light breezes and fair. J Frefh gales; thick hazy weather, with thunder, lightning, and 3 No obfervat. 1 hard rain. " f Strong gales and hard fqualls. At 11 A.M. got fight of the 1 Grand Lema, bearing N. W. diftant 3 leagues. At noon fft^-'f' L the Grand Lema bore W. half S. diftant 3 leagues. f Frefh gales; thick and hazy frefli the Eaftward. At S P. M. Wk/*' 1 came to in Macao Road. APPENDIX. TABLE KovTEofihe N. W, America Schooner,/-(wjNooti XIII. a, or King George's Sound i Longitude I Variat. Eaft. Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. oa. 27 28 29 Deg. Min. 49 36 48 24 47 43 36 49 35 24 32 49 i 3.1 40 j 30 28 29 30- Deg. il 233 E. S. E. fqually, with rain and hail. Left Nootka Sound. S. E. and E. N. E. fqually, with rain, and light breezes.. N. Wefterly; fqually, with rain, and a high fea. Variable; fqually, and rain. S. Eafterly; ftrong gales, fqually, with. rain. > Wind and weather as yefterday. Variable; light breezes, with finall rain. Variable; frefh breezes, fqually, and fome rain. • S. Wefterly; fqually, frefli gales, and an high fea. S. W. and S. W. by W. cloudy, with drizzly rain, and fqually. ' S. Wefterly ; moderate breezes, with a heavy fwell. f S.andN.W.by W. light airs, cloudy, and a heavy fea; frefb I breezes and clear. From W. N. W. to E. pleafant breezes and clear, j E. S. E. and S. E. pleafant breezes, light airs, and cloudy. f S. E. and N. E. light breezes and fair; pleafant breezes and! I cloudy. N. E. and N. N. E. pleafant breezes, and cloudv-. N.E. pleafant breezes, and cloudy. S. E. fqually, with rain. Variable; frefh breezes, thick and hazy, with hard rai , and* heavy fyell. Variable; moderate breezes, with, hard rain, and a heav y fu-ell 1 light airs, and cloudy. From, S. S. E. fd.NI E. fqualls and rain; with much thu ider and- lightning, and a high fea. N. E. pleafant breezes, and cloudy, with.-feme rain. Sa v. a tro-- pic bird,, a fea pidgeon, and Portugal men of war. Variable; frefli breezes, and cloudy. S. Eafterly; pleafant breezes, and fair;' S. S. E. and ditto. S. S. E. and S. E.by S. frefh breezes, fqually, and rain S. Wefterly; frefh breezes, ftrong gales, cloudy, and * heavy S. Wefterly; fqually with rain, pleafant breezes. S, Eafterly; frefli breezes, and cloudy. n APPENDIX. TABLE XIII. continued. E of the N. W. America Schooner,/™» Nootka, or King G >rge.'»Sound to the Nov.2j 28 29 30 Dec. 1 Longitude Eaft. 26 26 25 34 Winds, Weather, and Remark*. S. Eafterly; frefli breezes, with fqualls of rain. 89 E. and S. E. by E. frefli breezes, and cloudy. r S- E. by E. and S. E. by S. frefh breezes and cloudy, with ligfcl, \ ning.and fqualls of rain. S. S. E. frefh breezes and cloudy, with a heavy fea. Variable ; frefli breezes, and cloudy. S. S. E. and S. byE. light winds, and cloudy. Variable and S. Eafterly; light airs and cloudy. E. S. E. pleafant breezes, and clear. S. Eafterly; frefli breezes, and fome fqualls of rain. r E. S. E. ftrong breezes and cloudy. Mowee BoreW. S.W. dif- \ tant 1 o leagues; Owhyhee S. E. diftant 18 leagues f Light breezes, and cloudy; off Mowee. At fun-fet Mowee bore I from S. W. by W. to N. W. by N.; Owhyhee S. E. diftant < 10 leagues.. At fun-rife Mowee bore N. W. and W. by N. j diftant 4 or 5 leagues. At noon Owhyhee bore S. E. and L W. S. W. diftant 4 or 5 leagues. rLight airs; hot and fultry. At fun-fet Mowee bore from N. W. ! byN. to W. S. W.; Owhyhee E. N. E. to S. W. by W. diftant I 3 leagues. At day-light Owhyhee bore from N. E. by N. to S.; J Mowee N. W. by N. to W. N. W.; Tahoorowa W. by N. 1 diftant 3 leagues. At noon Owhyhee bore from S. half E. ih Bay. Mowee bore from N. by W. to N.E. OffToe-y toN.W. byN. to Karakakooa B; S. by W. diftan APPENDIX. TABLE XIV. RoVTE-ofthe N. W. A-merica Schooner, at the Sandwich-Islands. Time. Eaft. Winds, Weather 1788. Dec. 10 (" Variable ; light airs, clear, hot and fultry. At fun-fet Owhyhee .] bore from S. half W. to N. W. by N. diftant 2 leagues ; j Mowee N. W.; Tahoorowa N. W. by W. At fun-rife ] Owhyhee bore from S. by E. to N. diftant 4 or 5 miles. At (_ noon Owhyhee bore from N. N. E. to S. by S. diftant 4 miles. I {Light breezes and fair. In KarakakooaBay, where we remained till the 20 th. At noon the extremes of Owhyhee bore from S. by E. half E. to N. N. W. half W.; Karakakooa Bay E. by S. diftant 4 leagues. S. fqualls and rain. At noon the extremities of Mowee bore from N. W. to S. E. by E. off fhore 3 leagues; the ifland of Ranai W. N. W. to W. by S.; the ifland of Morotoi W. diftant 1 league; Tahoorowa from S. S.W. to S.W. by W. diftan* i_ 3 leagues. C Frefh breeze from the S. and W. and cloudy. Came to an anchor off the ifland of Mowee, 1 league from fhore; the extre- ! mities of Ranai bore from W. by N. half N. to S. W. by W.; Morokenne S. E. half E.; the W. point of Owhyhee E. half S.; the ifland of Tahoorowa from S. to S. E. by S.; the ifland of Mowee from S. E. by S. half E. to W. N. W. We remained I at anchor till the 26th. S. W. light airs and calms. At fun-fet the ifland of Mowee bore from E. by S. to N. W. halfW. 10 leagues; Ranai.-, from W. by S. to W. N.W. diftant 4 leagues; the extremities of Tahoorowa S. and S. E. diftant 5 leagues.; Owhyhee from S. E. to E. S. E. diftant 15 leagues. Atnoon Mowee bore from I E. S. E. to N. W.by W. diftant 3 leagues ; Morotoi N. W.; . the extremes of Ranai from W. N- W. to W. by S. diftant 4. leagues; the extremes of Tahoorowa from S. by W. to S. S. E. diftant 7 leagues; the body of the rock Morokenne, S.E. by S. diftant 8 leagues. E.—S. and W. S. W. frefh breezes, cloudy, with fqualls and. rain, thunder and lightning. At fun-fet the extremes of Mowee bore from E. S. E. half E. to N by E. diftant 4 leagues; the body of Morotoi N. W. by N. diftant 5 leagues ; Ranai'. S. by W. and W. N W. diftant 4 miles; Tahoorowa from I S. by E. to S. E. diftant .9 leagues; Owhyhee juft in light, S. E. by S. diftant 20 leagues. At fun-rife the extremes of Woahoo bore N. W. by W. diftant 8 leagues; the extremes of Morotoi N. E. by N. and E. diftant 6 leagues. A P P E N D I X. TABLE XIV. continued. Route of the N. W. America Schooner, at the Sandwich Isla Latitude I Longitude North. I Eaft. Variat. Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Dec. 29 Deg. Min. S leagues. At fun-rife the extremes of Woahoo bore N.W. and N. diftant 7 or 8 leagues; Morotoi from S. E. half E. to S. by E. extremes of Woahoo bore from S.W. by W. to W. by N. diftant 3 leagues; Morotoi S. E. by E. andE. N. E. diftant 7 leagues. V. S. W. pleafant, breezes and cloudy. At fun-fet Woahoo bore' N. W. by W. and W. by S. diftant 4 or 5 leagues; Morotoi E. by N. and S. E. diftant 7 or 8 leagues. At day-fight Woahoo bore from S. W. by S. to W. N. W. diftant 3 leagues; Morotoi E. S. E and E. byN. diftant 8 or 9 leagues. At noon Woahoo bore from N. by W. to W. diftant 3 leagues ; Morotoi from E. by N. to S. E. by E. diftant 6 leagues. P S. frefli breezes, and cloudy, with fome fqualls of rain. At noon J the extremes of Woahoo bore from N.N. W. to E. S. E. dif. f Light airs and variable. At 2 A. M. pleafant breezes and clear. I At fun-rife the extremes of Woahoo bore from N. N. E. J to E. by N. diftant 1 o or 11 leagues. At noon the S. point of j Woahoo bore from E. by N. to N. diftant 8 leagues; Morotoi L E. S.E. diftant 13 leag md clear. At fun-fet the extremes Woahoo bore from N. by W. to E. by S. off fhore 3 leagui At 2 A.M. light airs,and variable. At fun-rife the extren ofWoahoo borefromN. N.W. to E. S. E. off fhore 61eagu At 10 A. M. pleafant breezes and clear. At noon the extren of Woahoo bore from N. by W. to N. E. by E. off (hi 10 leagues. Variable; frefli breezes and clear; light airs and clear. At no of - f APPENDIX; TABLE XIV. continued. Route of the N. W. America Schooner, at the Sandwich Isla Longitude Eaft. Variat. Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Ren | Deg. Min. 21 12 10 &? II Jl&f 12 Variable; pleafant breezes and clear. At noon the extremes of Woahoo bore from N. W. to E. N. E. diftant 3 leagues. N. E.—N. E. by N. and N. N. E. frefh breezes, cloudy and fqually. At fun-fet the extremes of Morotoi bore from. N. E, to E. by N. diftant 8 or 9 leagues. At noon the S. E. point of Woahoo bore N. byW. diftant 7 or 8 leagues. |~N. N.E. and variable; frefli breezes and clear. At fun-rife- the extremes of Morotoi bore from E. to E. by S. diftant 12 J or 13 leagues ; the extremes of Woahoo from N. W. by W. to J N. E. by N. diftant 3 leagues. At noon Woahoo bore from [_ N. W. to N. N. E. diftant 4 or 5 leagues. Variable; light airs. Came to anchor off Woahoo, diftant 1 mile. !S and E. and S. light breezes, frefh gales and fqually. At 1 P. M. weighed anchor, in company with the Iphigenia. At . noon the E. end of Morotoi bore from S. W. to E. by N. dif- - tant 4 leagues. . f E. N. E. to S. S. E. fqually and rain. At 2 A.M. the N. E. J extremity of Morotoi bore E. S.E.; flood between Mowee and Morotoi. At noon the extremes of Morotoi bore from N.E. to W. N. W. diftant 4 leagues; the S. E. point of Woahoo W. by N. diftant 7 leagues. N. E. to N. N. W.—E. S. E. and S. S. E. frefli breezes and rain. At fun-fet Morotoi bore from E. half.N. to N. N. E. diftant 3 or 6 miles; Ranai S. E. by E. ; Mowee E. by S. ; .the S.W. part of Woahoo N.W. by N. diftant 7 leagues. At fun-rife Woahoo bore from N. W. to S. W. by W. diftant I leagues; Morotoi E.; Ranai S. E. byE. diftant 7 or 8 leagues. At noon hauled round'the S.W. point of Woahoo, and anA chored in 10 fathoms, 2 miles off fhore. S. frefli breezes and cloudy, with ftrong gales and fqualls, and a heavy fea. At 12 P.M. weighed and flood to fea, the gale 4 ftill encreafing. At noon the extremes of Woahoo bore from j W. by S. to N. W. diftant 2 leagues; Morotoi from E. S. E. (_ to E. by N. (iiftant 7 or 8 leagues, W. S.W. and variable; frefh breezes and cloudy. At fun-fet the E. end of Woahoo bore from N. half W. to N. N. W. dif- : tant 3 or 6 leagues ; Morotoi N. E. by E." diftant 8 or 9 leagues. - At day-light the E. fide of Woahoo bore from N. N.E. to I W. N. W. diftant 2 or 3 leagues. At'noon, the extremes of {_ Woahoo bore from E. by N. to W. Off Wytetee Bay-1 league. TABLE XIV. continued. Route of the N. W. America Schooner, at the Sandwich-Islands. Time. Longitude Eaft. 1789. Jan. 17 Deg. Min J Deg. Mi Variat. Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. '. by W. frefh breezes at :s of Woahoo bore froi -rife ftrong gales N. to N. N. W. with fqualls and gales and hazy. At day-light the extremes of Mo- n S. E. by E. to S. W. by S. diftant 7 or 8 leagues-. - i%; the N.W. end of i. S. E. < "refli breezes and fqually, with ftrong .t day-light the body of Mori •n Morol •e frot S. W. to S. by E. diftant 7 leagues. Variable; cloudy, and a conftant, hard rain. At fun-fet Morotoi bore from S. S. W. to S. E. by E. diftant 4 or 3 leagues. At 10 A. M. Morotoi bore S. S. E.' diftant 3 or 4 leagues. "Variable ; frefli breezes and cloudy. At fun-fet Woahoo bore from S. E. to W. by N. diftant 3 or 6 leagues. Cloudy, and rain ; at fun rife Morotoi bore from S. by E.to E.by S. diftant 8 or 9 leagues. Light breezes and rain. At noon Woahoo bore from W. S. W. to N. W. byW. ; Morotoi from E; half S. to S. E. by S: diftant 6 or 7 leagues. Variable ; light breezes, hazy, drizzling rain. At fun-fet Mp- : froi I. byE i E. ; "\ . from . W. to S.W. by W. halfW. iftant 2 or 3 leagues. At day-light cloudy and drizzling rain ; Woahoo bore from W. half N. toN.by E.; Morotoi fro 1 E. byN. to E. by S.; Ranai E. N. E. diftant 9 leagues At noon hauled round the S. W. irate breeze. At 5 P. M. got under fail. At fun-rife o bore from W. to N. E. byE.; Witetee Bay N, N.W. 3 leagues. At noon Ranai bore E. by S.; Mowee E.; j E.°by N. half N. ; Woahoo from N. E. by E. to W. and Wite : Bay W, by N. J APPENDIX. TABLE XIV. continued. Route of the N. W. America Schooner, at the Sandwich Islands. Jan. 26 Longitude Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. f S. S. W. light airs and calms. At fun-fetthe extremes of Woahoo j bore from N. N. W. to W. off fhore 2 leagues. At noon a \ light breeze from the S.; the Ifland of Ranai bore from E. by S. I to E.; Mowee E. half N. to E. N. E. half E.; Morotoi I E. N. E. quarter E. to N. E. by E. diftant 3 leagues ; Woa- L hoo from N. N. W. to W. by N. diftant 4 leagues. S. pleafant breezes, and cloudy. At fun-fet Woahoo bore from W. by N. to N. W. off fhore 3 leagues ; Ranai E, S. E.; Morotoi E. N. E. and the body of Mowee E. diftant 12 leagues. Light breezes and fair at fun-rife, Woahoo from N. W. by N. to W. by S. off fhore 2 leagues. E." cloudy. At fun-fetWoahoo bore fromW.N.W. half W.to N.E. halfE. off fhore 2 leagues. Conftant drizzling rain; atfun-rife, Woaftoo bore from N. N. W. to N. E. off fhore 4 league:.. At noon frefli breezes and fqually; Woahoo bore from N.W. by N. toN. E. by E. off fhore 64eagues. Variable; frefli breezes and cloudy, with a heavy fwell. At fun- fet Woahoo S. W. point E.; Witetee bay E. by N. At fun-rife Woahoo N. W. point N. N. W. theW. point N. E. by E. and the S. W. point E. by S. off fliore 2 leagues. Light airs and calms ; at noon Woahoo bore from N.W. byN. to E. off fhore 3 leagues. Variable; light airs, and pleafant. At fun-fet the extremes of Wo- I ahoo the N.W; point N. byW. halfW. to the S.W. point, E. off fhore 2 leagues. At fun-rifeWoahoo bore from N.E. by E.to S.W.by S.offfhore3 leagues. Atnoon the N.W.point of Woahoo bore from N. by E. to the S. W. point S. E. by E. halfE. ■ off fhore 2 leagues. riable, a IN. 1 1 fair fet the N. W, point of Woahoo bore from N. by E. to E. N off fliore 1 league. At fun-rife the N. point of Woahoo bore from E. by N. to S. E. off fhore 7 or 8 leagues; Atooi in fight, bearing from W. by N. to W. by S. diftant 16 or 17 lei At noon Woahoo bore from E. N. E. to S. E. by E. off fhore A P P E N D I X. TABLE XIV. ««//W. Rout* V^ W; W. America Sehooaer, n the Sandwic f lS*d 29 21 32 Eaft.' Winds, Weather,'and Remarks, *.E. byE.v J N.W.-, iable, and E.by S. frefli breezes and fair. At fun-fet re from N. E. by E. to S. E. by E. diftant from the t about 4 miles. At day.light the N. point of Woa- N. E.; the N. W. point S. E. halfE. off fhore 2 noon the N. point of Woahoo bore from N. E. L half E. tothe N. W. point S. off fliore 4 miles. j" W. N. W. light airs and cloudy. At day-light Woahoo Bore from i N. by W. to E. by N. off fliore 3. leagues. At noon Woahoo L bore from N. N. E. to S. E. by E. off fliore 3 leagues. Eaftward; a light breeze. Off fliore at W oahoo. W. light airs and pleafant. Off ditto. N. E. by E. and E. N. E. frefh breezes and fair. Off ditto. (■ Pleafant breezes and fair. At 8 A.M. bore away for A e from E. S. E. to N. by W. off fhore 1 Light breezes and fair. At moa Bay, At noon dror Iphigenia, where we remai A. M.faw the Iphigenia offWy- inchor 1 cable's length from the d till the 19th. >le; light breezes and conftant rain. Weighed At fun-fet Atooi bore from E. by N. to N. W. noa Town N. by E. diftant 7 or 8 miles; theE. dw fromW. by N. to W. by S. diftan ieE.< ; Tahi ST. by E. j by N. diftant les and fqually. At fun-rife the E. end of rom N. by E. to N. W. by W. diftant 6 or 7 lea ?ues. At noon On eheeow bore from S . W toN Wby W. N.W fqually At'fun-r feth eN.e xtremity of On eeheoWt) reN. M '. byN- 8 le gjueS". At noon At ooiboref omN.N E.toN. W. byN difta it 3 or 6 leagues j On eeheow Is .W. dif ant 10 nrialeagu Hj&" N. N W. mod erate br ezes. At Jay-lig t W ahoo bore from E. by N. to N. E. by N. d 0 lea At noon, W off fhore 2 n E. by S and th 5 Northern e xtren lityN.W.byN. TAB L E XIV. continued Route of the N.W. America Schooner, at the Sandwich-Islands. Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Feb. 23 19 46 Pleafant breezes and fair. At 8 P. M, came too in Witetee Bay. Pleafant breezes from the Weftward. In ditto. W. N. W. pleafant breezes. At half paft 5 P. M. weighed, and flood for Owhyhee. At fun rife the body of Woahoo bore N. W. diftant 6 or 7 leagues; the E. end of Morotoi from N. by E. to N. E. by E. diftant 3 leagues ; the E. end of Ranai from E. by N. to E. diftant 4 or 3 leagues. At noon Woahoo bore N. W. by N.; the W. end of Morotoi N. W. by N. the Eaftern extremity, of Ranai E. byN.; diftant 3 leagues; the S.W. extremity of MoweeE. by S.; and Tahoorowa E. S. E. ■ W. N. W. pleafant breezes and fair. At fun-fet Ranai bore from N. W. by N. to N. diftant 4 leagues ; Mowee from N. by-ifH to N. E. by E.; Tahoorowa S. by E. At fun.rife OwhvhlB bore from S. E; by E. to N. E.by E. diftant 3 or 6 leagues ; Mowee N. by E. half E.; Tahoorowa N. half W.; Ranai N. N. W. At noon Owhyhee bore from E. S. E. to N. E. by E. diftant 4 or 3 leagues; the Snowy Mountains E. by S. and E. by N.; Mowee from N. by E. to N. N. W. diftant ] 7 or leagues. S. light airs and fair. At fun-fet Owhyhee bore from S. E. to N. E. ; Mowee N. N. W. diftant 7 or 8 leagues. At fun- rife Owhyhee bore from N. E. by N. to S. E. diftant 4 or 3 leagues. At noon Owhyhee bore from N. E.by N. to S. E. quarter E. diftant 3 leagues; Mowee N. diftant 8 or 9. leagues; {"N. W. light breezes and fair. At fun-fet Owhyhee bore from ; S. E. to N. E. diftant 4 leagues. At day light ©whyhee bore from S. E. half E. to N. E. diftant 2 leagues; Mowee N.fo to N. by W. f W. S. W. light airs, hot and fultry. At fun-rife Owhyhee bore - I from N. N. E. to S. S. E.; Karakakooa Bay S. E. diftant 3 ■( leagues. At noon Owhyhee bore from E. N. E. to S. E. half I S. diftant 6 or 7 leagues ; Mowee from N. by E. to N. by W.; I Ranai N. W. by N.; Tahoorowa N. N. W. rN. W. light airs and variable. At fun-fet Owhyhee bore from S. E. to E. S. E. halfE. diftant 8 or 9 leagues ; Mowee N. • to N. by E. half E.; Ranai N. N. W. ; Tahoorowa N. by W. •i At fun-rife Owhyhee bore from N. E. half N. to S. E. half S; diftant 5 leagues; Mowee N. N. W. diftant ro leagues. At noon Owhyhee bore from N. N. E. to S. by E. half ||M I Karakakooa Bay S. E. diftant 17 miles. APPENDIX. TABLE XIV. continued. : Route of the N. W. America Schooner, at the Sand, rch3 8#-9 Longitude Variat. Eaft. Raft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. (" Moderate fea breezes, and clol I breezes, and fair. -fo the Bay. f Firft part frefh land t Off Owhyhee, near Karaka- jy. Latter part pleafant land- t 7 P. M. came to ir and cloudy. Latte: by N. to N. N. W.; Tahoorowa N. W. by N. to W. N. W. ; [_ Owhyhee E. by N. to E. S. E. diftant 12 leagues. , ; theE. point of to N. N. W. dif- oi N. W. by N.; it day- light Woa- aint of Morotoi N. E. half N. At noon by W. to W. by N. diftant 6 or j leag J. E. to E. half S.;. Ranai E. S. E. difl /Squally and 1 x*if*°« APPENDIX. TABLE XIV. continued. Route of the N. W.Am v Schooner, at the Sandwich-Islands. Time. Latitude North. Longitude Eaft. Eaft.' Winds, Weather, and Remark*. 17 89. Deg. Mm. Deg. Min Deg. Mm, f N. N. E. frefh breezes and fqually. At 6 P. M. faw Atooi March 13 bearing N. W.. by W. diftant 6 or 7 leagues. At day-light *• was towed into Wymoa Bay by the natives. j. Moderate fea-breeze and cloudy. At 3 P. M. weighed, and flood | for Oneeheow. At fun-fet Atooi bore from E. to N. W. by N. 14 off Ihore 2 leagues; Oneeheow from W. S. W. to W. half S.; L Orehua W. by N. ["Moderate fea-breeze and cloudy. At day-light Oneeheow bore 1 from E. to N. E. diftant 3 leagues. At noon Oneeheow bore J fromN. half W. to S. byE. halfE. off fliore 2 miles. At 3 ■*«£&■* | P. M. came to, in 17 fathoms, abreaft of a fmall village, called Rotair; the E.-end of Oneeheow bore from S. S. E. halfE. L toN. halfW.; Tahoorowa S. W. diftant 3 leagues. f Frefh breezes and cloudy. At half paft midnight made fail, and flood to the Weftward. At day-light Oneeheow bore from 16 21 51 _ , J E. to N. N. E.; Tahoorowa-S. W. by S.; the Iphigenia 3 J leagues to Windward. At noon Oneeheow bore from N. E. , j {o S. E. half E. off ihore 3 leagues. Route of the N; W. TABLE America Schooner,/™w the Sand-* s to the N. W. Co a 1789. March 17 ^J7/ ] Longitude Eaft. 24 27 17 2? 28 56 26 29 50 47 31 5 28 3* 54 29 33 0 3° 33 22 3l 33 43 4 36 x7 5 ,35 59 6 36 59 7 37 47 8 39 19 Winds, Weather, and Ren. -{ -( ■eezes and cloudy. At fun-fet Oneeheow bore to E. S. E. off fliore 2 leagues. At day-light from N. E. by E. to S. E. by S. off fhore 2 l. M. faw the Iphigenia. At 8 fpoke te her. eezes and cloudy. At 6 P. M. Oneeheow bore from N. by E. to E. N. E. diftant 3 league . At noon plea- fant breezes and clear. N. N. E. pleafant and clear. At 4 P. M. fa w a fmall ifland bearing W. N. W. diftant 4 leagues. Atfu n-rife ditto N. W. by W. diftant 2 leagues. At noon it bore N. by W. diftant Variable ; pleafant breezes andeloudy. At fun fet the ifland bore E. by N. diftant 3 or 6 leagues. At noon moderate breezes, and fine, pleafant weather. E. N. E. frefli breezes and cloudy. E. -by N. pleafant-breezes and fair. E. by N. to N. E. light breezes and cloudy. N. E. and N. N. E. pleafant breezes and fair. N. E. by N. to E. S. E. ditto, and cloudy. E. S. E. pleafant breezes and cloudy. Atnoc nhazy. S. E. by S. ditto, and hazy. S. E. by E. light breezes and hazy. Eafterly; pleafant breezes and fair. N. by E. to N. E. by E. light breezes and pleafant. / E. N. E. light breezes and cloudy. At 1 A. M. E. by S. 1 1 breezes and fqually, with rain. At noon pleafant. S. E S. S. E. and S. E. by E. fqually, with rain.' S. to S; W. and W. light breezes and cloudy, with fmall rail W. andN. N. W. frefli breezes and fqually. r N. and E.N. E. ftrong breezes, with hard fqualls -of wind N. W. frefli breezes, fqually, with rain. W. and ditto. r s. W. ftrong breezes and clear, with a high, following fea. J g p. M. fqually, with rain. At 8 A. M. conftant rain* L noon light airs, and conftant rain. ^^c A P P E N D I X. TABLE XV. concluded. '. W. America Schooner, from /^Sandwich Islands-*« theN. W, Co. »/Amer,ca, Time. Latitude North. Longitude Eaft. Variat. Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 1789. April 10 Deg. Min. Cfeg. Min. Deg. Min Variable ; frefli breezes and cloudy, with rain. 40 7 N. Eafterly ; ftrong gales, with rain, and a high fea. r W. N. W. and variable ; hard fqualls of wind and rain. ' Saw 12 41 17 { "feveral fmall birds. , W. N. W. moderate, fqually, with a high fea from the N. W. 13 42 36 J At 10 A. M. faw a fea-lion and( a fea-gull. Several birds |_ flying about the fhip. 14 44 2 ; , From W.' to S. pleafant breezes; hazy, with fmall rain. , f From S. byE. to S. W. cloudy, with fmall rain. At noon frefh L breezes and hazy. x5 ' / From W. by S. to W. by N. pleafant breezes and fqually. Paf- 1 fing fqualls of rain, hail and fnow. 16 47 4S J" From W. N. W. to N. by E. frefli breezes, with hard fqualls, 1 and fleet. 17 48 28 18 47 53 48 14 Variable; light breezes and clear; fqually, with rain. '9 Variable; light breezes, and fmall, drizzling rain. / Variable; light airs, pleafant breezes and fair. Wild-geefe, L fhags, fea gulls, and gannets feen. 20 48 ' 40 f N. Wefterly; frefli breezes and clear. Paffed fome drift-wood, 1 and fea weed, and faw feveral whales.- 21 49 *5 f S. W. fair, and pleafant. At noon the extremities of the coaft bore 22 49 34 •1 from W. by N. to E. by S.; Nootka Sound E. N. E. diftant r S. E. by E. light winds and clear.- At fun-fet the extremes ot J land bore from E. by S. to W. N. W. off more 3 leagues.; 23 1 Nootka Sound E. by N. diftant 6 or 7 leagues. At 10 A. M. Nootka Sound bore E. by N. diftant 7 or 8 leagues. r E. S. E. to W, S. W. ftrong gales, and hard rain. At 4 A. M. 24 J Nootka Sound bore E. N. E. diftant 6 or 7 leagues. At noon I rounded Hog Ifland, and anchored in Friendly Cove. !ND OF T A 1 APPENDIX, N° I. INSTRUCTIONS of the MERCHANTS PROPRIETORS, To John Meares, Efq. commanding the Felice and Iphigenia. AS the profecution of Voyages to diftant countries muft redound to the honour of thofe who undertake them, by elucidating the obfcurities of Geography, and opening new channels for Commerce; and whereas it appears that a very beneficial trade may be carried on between China and the North Weft Coaft of America, part of which was difcovered by Sir Francis Drake,, in the year of our Lord 1579; and confidering that the fituation of China, both for the outfit of veflels for the fur trade, as well as for the difpofal of cargoes, is fuch, as muft ftiortly deftroy all competition, and give us the exclufive pofleflion of this valuable branch of trade, much fo the advantage of our country: from thefe confiderations we have fitted out and equipped two good and fufficient veflels, for the purpofe of cftablifhing this branch of trade, viz. the Felice and And you are hereby required and directed to proceed with both veflels, with the utmoft difpatch, to the North Weft Coaft of America. The moft expeditious route, we conceive, will be to proceed through the China Seas to the Southward, between Mindoro .and Pelawan, and to the Southward of Magindanao; touching, if neeeflary, at Sooloo; ' and paffing round the Northern extremity of New Guinea, get as far to the Eaftward as the winds will admit, or you may judge neeeflary; ftanding then to the Northward of the Tropick, to obtain variable winds to carry you to America. As this is a navigation of great extent and duration, it is neeeflary you ftpuld provide yourfelf with a fufficient A flock *1 flock of water, as nothing fo effe&ually checks the advance and progrefs of the Scurvy as a plentiful allowance of that article. ! As the fuccefs of the voyage, in a great meafure, depends on your early arrival at Nootka; we defire, that, if you find yourfelf detained by the bad failing of the Iphigenia,. that you feparate from her, and proceed fingly to America. You will give inftru&ions to Captain William Douglafs to proceed, with the utmoft " expedition, to Cook's River, and remain there as long as he may judge expedient; and fromthence to proceed to Prince William's Sound; and after remaining there until the trade flackens, to proceed to the Southward, to Crofs Sound (which, is fuppofed to communicate with the bay to the Northward of Cape Edgcombe) and along the coaft to the Southward,, as far as Nootka j examining the feveral bays and iflands, and making fuch~ ' ftay in each as may be deemed expedient j endeavouring to arrive in Nootka Sound by the ift of September, 1788; where he will await your arrival till the 15th of October :—And in cafe of your, not appearing in that time,, you will direct him to proceed to- China with fuch a cargo as he may be able to procure; and to leave a letter with one of the chiefs, communicating only his arrival and departure.- The inhabitants of Nootka Sound being- in expectation of arrivals, will, doubtlefs,- ' provide a cargo of fkins,. which will become the prize of the firft fhip that arrives there. We, therefore, recommend to you, in the ftrongeft manner, to ufe the utmoft diligence in arriving there. During your ftayat that place,—which you will extend as long as you judge proper,—we recommend to you to-difpatch your long-boat, well armed,, under the command of a prudent officer,; to Wicananifh, twelve or thirteen leagues-to the Southward of Nootka, where, we underftand, many fine fkins may be procured. We recommend to you, afterwards,. to proceed to Barclay's Sound, and accurately examine the coaft to the Southward, as far as the Spanifh Settlements, Should the profpect of trade ■ be encouragingi.you will then return to the Northward, examining, the different bays and harbours to the Northward of Nootka, particularly the coafts of Queen Charlotte^ Iflands, as far as 550 North; or execute as much of this part of your Inftructions as is- confiftent with.your arrival atNootka by the 1 ft of September, 1788. Should you, on your return to Nootka, find- there the Iphigenia, you will, in fuch cafe, difpatch her to China-with all the furs collected: and, as we propofe returning her to you as early as poffible after her arrival here, you will appoint with Captain Douglafs a time and place of rendezvous,, that youmay receive the inftru&ions and re- frefhments we may fend you next feafon. We leave it to your difcuetion to winter upon the N I X. the coaft of America, or at the Sandwich Iflands; though, confidering the feverity of the climate, as well as the health of your people, and that little advantage in the way of trade is to be derived from the former, during,the winter feafon, we conceive it will be more eligible for you to winter at the Sandwich Iflands, and return to the coaft early in March ; of which you will take care to inform the Indians at Nootka, that they may expect your return. Although you are abundantly provided with copper, iron, and other articles of trade, we muft recommend to you the ftricteft ceconomy in the application of them ; as it appears that the natives are fuch intelligent traders, that, fhould you be in the leaft degree lavifh, or inattentive in forming bargains, they will fo enhance the value of their furs, as not only to exhauft your prefent ftock, but alfo to injure, if not ruin, any future adventure. As every perfon on board you is bound by the articles of agreement not to trade,— even for the moft trifling articles,—we expect the fulleft compliance with this condition; and we fhall moft affuredly avail ourfelves of the penalty a breach of it will incur. But as, notwithftanding, the feamen may have laid in iron and other articles for trade—thinking to efcape your notice and vigilance,—we direct, that, at a proper time, before you make the land of America, you fearch the veffel carefully, and take into your poffeffion every article that can ferve for trade;—allowing the owner its full value. As other furs bear no proportion, in value, to thofe of the fea-otter, thefe are to be, of courfe the principal object of your trade.—Beavers and foxes, particularly the black ftins are of confiderable value in China. Marten fkins will not bring more than one dollar each. We recommend to you alfo, as an object very deferving of your attention, the procuring as much whale-oil and whale-bone as poffible j for which you are provided with a fufficient quantity of cafks. Ginfeng and Snake-root are faid to be produced on the North Weft Coaft of America : you will colled as much of both thefe articles as poffible; and you will bring with you fiunples of the different ochres and minerals which the natives ufe as paints. Mufcle-pearls are faid to be in great abundance on the North Coaft of America :-- Cond is alfo an article on the coaft. You will bring as much of both as poffib.e. EH a 2 Sparv APPENDIX. Spars, of every denomination, are conftantly in demand here:—Bring as many of thofe as you can conveniently flow; Hurft or Nourfe-fkins are to be procured in abundance :—Their value here is twenty Spanifh dollars per hundred. As it appears that the natives are ever on the watch to take advantage of weaknefs or negligence, it is neceffary to be always on your guard, and to exert, at all times, the utmoft vigilance and caution. At the fame time, however, we recommend, in the ftrongeft terms, the utmoft forbearance with them in every circumftance where it may lower you in their opinion, or endanger your fafety. Humanity and .your own intereft demand it. You will endeavour to propagate at Nootka, and at the Sandwich Iflands, the breed of your poultry of every kind : alfo of hogs, goats, and fheep. On your arrival, you will land Comekela, who is a native of the Sound, giving him fuch prefents as you may think proper.1 On your.return to the Sandwich Iflands, you will land Tianna at Atooi, or any of the • iflands he may defire. You will alfo give him fuch prefents as you think ufeful or acceptable; and, if poffible, you will referve fome of your fheep and goats as a prefent to this chief: as, by leaving them in his poffeffion, there is a better chance of their being, taken care of, and increafing; and thus rendering thefe iflands the beft place of refrefh- ment in the world. We particularly direct, that you do not or the Sandwich Iflands; as there is no ce_ returning them to their own country. bring away any of the inhabitants of America, tainty that there will be any opportunity of Should you, in the courfe of your voyage, meet with any Ruffian, Englifh, or Spanifh veflels, you will treat them with civility and friendfhip; and allow them, if autho- • rized, to examine your papers, which will fhew the object of your voyage:—But you: muft, at the fame time, guard againft furprize. Should they attempt to feize you, or even carry you out of your way,, you will prevent it by every means in your power, and: repel force by force. You will, on your arrival in the firft port, proteft before a properr officer againft fuch illegal procedure; and afcertain, as nearly as you can, the value of: your veffel and cargo; fending fuoh proteft, with a full account of the tranfaftion, to. us at China. Should AS foon as I have made t: cced-to put the following Inftructions into e to point out the neceffity of your ftrictly adhering pointed you to meet me; as on thefe, in a great meafure, depend the fuccefs of the voyage you are engaged in. N I mand, nor have committed to your care the truft they have done; but they were fenfibie, that when the Iphigenia was entrufted to you, and-fuch unlimited confidence repofed in your honour, that nothing further was requifite to impel you to promote their intereft. This is only to remind you of the confidence repofed in you, and to caution you to be on your guard, and to keep a good look out that your officers and crew punctually obey the articles they have figned; and that they are not permitted to trade or traffic with the natives for furs, or any other valuable article: and it is my-particular defire, that not even a curiofity be purchafed on the coaft of America, and as few as poffible at the Sandwich Ifles:—fuch an intercourfe only tending to gratify an idle and vain whim, at the expence of the infant, commerce now about to be eftablifhed. Should any illicit commerce be difcovered to you, or by you, you will note the fame in the'log-book, mentioning the time and place of fuch detection, the articles purchafed, and the.-names of the perfons concerned.; fo that the offenders may be brought to juftice. You will take the articles fo purchafed into your own poffeffion, to be depofited amongft the cargo: and if any perfon on board your fhip fhould have imprudently fhipped any articles of commerce, you will feize the fame for the benefit of your employers,— noting all the particular circumftances in the log book. You will keep .a regifter of all the furs you purchafe, their quality, number, and prices given, in a book kept for that purpofe; fo that your employers may be a judge of your- economy in the trade committed to your care. I need not point out the neceflity there is- of hufbanding it, and taking every precaution that your iron and blue-beads do not become a drug amongft the nations you may chance to trade with. Your furs, when claffed, are to be packed in chefts. Let them be fmoaked and carefully put in, with heavy weights over them; fo that when they are produced at market, they may bear fuch an appearance as will enhance their value. In your commerce with the Indians, I defire you totally to rejedr. the fkins of the cub otters, as they are of no value ; and their purchafe only induces the natives to deal de- ftruftion amongft them; when, at a future period, they would be more valuable. Otters tails are valuable; you will, therefore, purchafe all you can: but by no means encourage them to bring fmall pieces of otter-fkin, or old fkins, they being of little value- and it likewife encourages the natives to be remifs in hunting the more valuable otter. The cutting of fkins fhould be difcouraged; and by this means the trade would hfi much mended. Black > Black fox-fkins are very valuable; you will therefore purchafe all you can get. The river-otters, and inferior furs, I leave entirely to your own judgment to purchafe or not: but I beg leave to remark, that by direfting the purfuits of the natives entirely to the fea-otter, it may be the means of encreafing their flock of that valuable fur. The beaver, if black, will bring from ten to twelve dollars; the river-otter from four to five:—Marten fkins, if black, are valuable; but thofe that are brown, are in little eftimation^ The fmall hurft-fkins are valuable, and are an objedl of commerce,, being worth from ten to fifteen dollars per hundred. As there are confiderable quantities of ginfeng to the northward, I recommend your procuring as much as poffible; giving the natives to underftand that their women and children fhould be employed: and if you were to buy it only from them, it may be the means ©f turning their induftry to valuable account.. 1 During the time youremain in port, your carpenters may be employed in cutting down ipars, and fawing plank; particularly boat'-s knees^and timbers,—all which bear a good price in China.. . The procuring oil is an objed worthy your attention:—It is worth, in China, forty- five pounds fterling per ton; and whale-bone, likewife, is very valuable. You will preferve famples of all minerals. And I beg you to be particular in youren- quiries from what parts the natives of the North procure their copper. When you return to China, as you will touch at the Sandwich Iflands, I recommend to you'to fill all your cafks with fait pork; which will fell well at China, or ferve for fea . ftore for the next equipment of veflels in your employers' fervice for the coaft of America. In fhort I recommend to your particular-attention and ftudy to lade on. board your ▼eflfil all fuch articles as you may judge will turn to account in China. Should you have any favourable opportunity, I recommend your faking fifh, viz. cod and herring, of which there are fuch abundance to the Northward. In all thefe particulars you will be regulated by time: I have pointed out the refpeftive value of thofe article/— vour own prudence will do the reft. As you have a crew fufficient for every pur- P P E N D I X. pofe, and their wages are high, fo, in my opinion, their exertions for the benefit of their employers fhould be proportLonably Art From experience we know, that moft excellent rope may be made at the Sandwich Ifles. You will prohibit all fifhing-lines being purchafed by individuals, and let them be bought on account of the fhip, made into cordage, and the overplus carefully put by, that it may be returned into ftore. Induftry and activity are the forerunners of good order and difcipline. By keeping your people thus employed, I truft you will be enabled to render a good and profitable account to your employers. You will take care to have a fair log-book kept for the concern. It is to contain every minute tranfaftion of your voyage, from day to day. You will therefore mention therein all purchafes you make of articles of commerce. You will alfo note down the good or bad behaviour of your officers and crew; and thus afford to their employers a medium to diftinguifh merit from worthleflhefs. This log-book is to be figned by yourfelf. On your return to China you will feal up your log-book, charts, plans, &c. &c. and forward them to Daniel Beale, Efq. Canton, who is the oftenfible Agent fpr the concern: and you have the moft particular injunctions, not to communicate, or give copies of any charts or plans that you may make; as your employers affert a right to all of them,—and, as fuch, will claim them. Should you, in the courfe of your voyage, meet with the veflels of any other nation, you will have as little communication with them as poffible. If they be of fuperior force, and defire to fee your papers, you will fhew them. You will, however, be on your guard againft furprize. Should they be either Ruffian, Englifh, Spanifh, or any other civilized nation, and are authorifed to examine your papers, you will permit them, and treat them with civility and friendfhip; but, at the fame time, you muft be on your guard. Should they attempt to feize you, or even carry you out of your way, you will prevent it by every'means in your power, and repel force by force. When I make the fignal to feparate, or in cafe we fhould lofe company, you will purfue, without lofs of time, your way to the North Weft coaft of America, either to Cook's River, or Prince William's Sound, whichever place, in your judgment, fhould be firft touched at. The moftexpeditious route, I fhould imagine, will be, to proceed to the Southward of the ifland of Magindanao, between Mindoro and Pelawanj touching, if ne- i ceffary, N I ceffary at Sooloo, and paffing round the Northern-extremity of New Guinea, get as far to the Eaftward as the winds will permit, or you may judge neceffary; ftanding then to the Northward of the Trop.ck, to obtain variable winds to carry you to America. And *s this is a navigauon of great extent and duration, I recommend the moft particular care of your water, and that your crew have a plentiful allowance of it. You will rema eligible. I think but precarious fupplies, th in Cook's River and Prince William's Sound as you think 1 be more advifable to feek new places, than to wait the daily. may be brought you. As I mean to proceed direct for Nootka Sound, and from thence purfue my courfe to the Southward; you will, therefore, knowing this determination, make your difpofi-. -lions accordingly; exploring every place between Cook's River and Nootka, particularly Crofs Sound, (which is fuppofed to communicate with the bay to the Northward of Cape Edgcombe) and all along the coaft to the Southward; examining the feveral bays and iflands, and making fuch ftay in each as may be deemed expedient; endeavouring to arrive at Nootka by the firft day of September, 1788, where you will await my arrival in Friendly Cove,—a plan of which I enclofe you. You will wait for me till the firft day of November; when, on.feeing nothing of me, on that day you will make the beft of your way to the Sandwich Iflands, and anchor in Wymeo Bay, in the ifland of Atooi; remaining there twelve days; when, if I do not arrive during that interval, you will proceed to China, and follow the directions I have given you;—leaving a letter with Taheo, ter Abinui communicating only your arrival and departure. But as nothing but fome accident fhall prevent my arrival in Nootka by the time appointed, you may faithfully ex- pe& to fee me there, to fettle our future operations. As one of the veffels is to remain, and the other return to China, you will fee the ne- ceflity of thus" meeting, in order that one veffel may put her cargo on board of that faichi In your exa 1 $5° North 1 left Queen Charlotte's Iflands, as far as is confiftent with your lining the Northern coaft, you will recc itude. In executing this, you will do i arrival at Nootka by the firft of September. I have mentioned before, that every one is bound by the articles of agre«, "ot to trade for the moft trifling article. The fulleft compliance w.th th, cond.no ,« expe&d by your employers, who will undoubtedly avail themfelves of the penalty a breach o P P E rwithftandiner, t N D I X. it will incur. But as, notwithstanding, the feamen may have laid in iron and other articles for trade,—thinking to efcape your notice and vigilance,—I direct, that, at a proper time, before you make the coaft of America, you fearch the veffel carefully, and take into your poffeffion every article that can ferve for trade,—allowing the owner the full In additio different ocl: o the other articles of commerce mentioned, you will bring a fample of the s the natives ufe as paint. Mufcle-pea'rl is in great abundan much of thefe articles as you can. vill procure as I • As it appears that the natives are ever on the watch to take advantage of weaknefs or negligence, it is neceffary always to be on your guard, and exert, at all times, the utmoft vigilance and caution. At the fame time I recommend the utmoft forbearance, where it may not lower you in their opinion, and endanger your own fafety. Humanity and your own intereft demand it. You will be particularly careful to preferve a breed of the v you for the Sandwich Iflands. is animals put on board . On no account are you to bring away any of the natives of America or the Sandwich, Iflands, or any other iflands you may difcover; except your reafons are fo cogent and flrong, as will enfure you the countenance of your employers. The introduction of woollens is of the utmoft confequence, could it be done amongft the people of America.—at all times ufe your endeavours to barter with them for fuch as you have on board. The great advantages that would accrue to your country, as well as credit to yourfelf, will make you attentive to this point. As there is a quantity of fpruce on board your fhip, you will, when you fee occafion, make it into beer,' and ferve it out to your crew; which will be a confiderable favingof your fpirits;—as thofe two articles will not he allowed yourfhip's company co°ether. Permit me to add,.—that, as you will be intitsled to whatever praife may be due to your condud, fo you will alfo bear any blame which may arife from want of attention to your employers* intereft.. And. you will promife, in my name, that thofe who diftinguifh themfelves by good order,, fobriety,, and exertion, as well as by obedience to your commands, A APPENDIX, fhall meet with an adequate reward, either by a- j j • " ' 8 ProiI1otion in their prefent ernnlov orlw prote&ion and recommendation, fhould they leave it. * •' or b? Recommending unanimity with your officers, and the ftricteft difcipline towards vour imps company,— r ' <t Sea, February 2, 17S Your moft obedient fervant, JOHN MEARES. N° III. INSTRUCTIONS to explore the STRAITS of JOHN DE FUCA. To Mr. Robert Duffin, Firft Officer of the Feltce. YOU will proceed with the long-boat to the Southward of this port, in order to trade with the natives for furs; for which purpofe-I have put under your charge fufficient articles of commerce. You are now fo well acquainted with the nature of a trip of this kind, that it would be needlefs to give you any inftruftions for the conduct you are to purfue. Trufting intirely to your difcretion, I have confiderable hopes that you will prove " fuccefsful, as you vifit the numerous villages feated along the fhore leading to the Straits of John De Fuca. You will enter this ftrait as far as you find any inhabitants, or prof- peft of furs; and as we had an hint of a diftant, nation refiding up this fea, the exploring of it, fo as not to retard materially your courfe to the Southward, may be of confequence; , particularly if you fhould be fortunate enough to find a haibour. A P F E N D 1 X. When you leave this ftrait, you. will touch at Tatootche's Mand, and at the villages feated along the fhores to the Southward.—I think it wltl-be advifable to avoid Queenhithe. If the winds and weather fhould be tolerable, fo as to permit you to purfue your courfe to the bay which we named Shoal-water Bay, it will be a particular fatisfadtion, if only to afcertain the exiftence of another nation, diftindt from that of Nootka; much more fo if that bay, or places adjoining, are capable of receiving fhipping. As it is impoffible to provide againft contingent circumftances, I therefore leave every other matter to your own prudence. I recommend to you, particularly, to be conftantly on your guard; to keep your arms dry and in good order, and at nights to avoid anchoring in the vicinity of any large village or populous place:—and, I intreat you, above all things, to avoid any warfare with the natives; but to let that humanity, good faith, and fteady line of conduct which has hitherto guided our actions, be the leading principles of your mind in all your proceedings. Your .own goodnefs of heart will not, I truft, permit you to fandtion any depredations on the defencelefs favage nations with whom you may have intercourfe, by any perfon undei your orders. You will take poffeffion of this ftrait, and the lands "adjoining, in the name of the King and Crown of Britain ; and inftill into the minds of the inhabitants that you will" return fhortly to fulfill any treaties of commerce or amity thst-iyau.mayimakc with them,. and for which you have my authority. I beg that you: will keep a memorandum of your pfoceedin land, and make other proper remarks. , take fketches of the I propofe waiting-in this port until your return. Should any unforefeen accident,,, however, oblige me to-leave it, you will proceed to Nootka,. and join me there. Felice, Port Effingham, July 13th, .-main, Sir, Your moft obedient Servant, J. MEARES.. No IV. N« IV. COPY of Mr. DUFFIN's JOURNAL. mam ed and c sigh A. M. c right s. At i og, contains ON the 13th of July, 1788, left the fhip, with the long-boat, cmed, bound to the Southward, to trade for furs and explore the coaft. At ame to, in a fendy bay, at a fmall diftance from the fhip, to put the boat to [ A. M. left this bay, after having got fome viduals cooked. This day, or !2 hours,, and ends at noon. 14//;.—Wind from the South Eaft with conftant rains. At five o'clock came to in a fandy bay oppofite to-the village of Attab. Came along-fide, a number of canoes \ but no appearance of any furs:—Bought from them fome hurft-fkins and a few fifh, for beads; Thefe people behaved very civilly, not offering to commit any depredations: fired a mufketoon at fun-fet, as a fignal for the natives not to approach the boat in the night A. M, the wind Wefterly, and cloudy weather: at five o'clock weighed,, and run to the village, and lay on our oars tiH 8 o'clock* Not feeing a fingle fkin, thought it advifable to proceed to the Sound, having a favourable wind. Steered Eaft and Eaft North Eaft along the coaft, at the diftance of a quarter of a mile. This coaft, in general, to a- village called Nittee Natt, affords a very pleafant profpect:—is moftly a fandy beach, but no foundings with 20 fathoms, within a quarter of a mile of the fhore. There are alfo a number of water-falls, and the furf breaks very high all along the coaft, which lies Eaft and Weft, per compafs. At noon a pleafant breeze and cloudy weather. The point which- -forms the entrance of John De Fuca's-fea, which I call Point Entrance, Eaft by South;. Tatootche's Ifland South Eaft by Eaft, off- the former four leagueSj and. from the latter ten leagues—latitude obferved 480 38' North.. i5//>_Pleafant breezes from- the Weftward,. and clear weather. At half paft one P. M. nm into a fmall fandy bay, feeing two or three houfesthere, and came to;, upon which all the natives quitted the place, they being only fifhermen, taking their fifh with .them. Seeing no probability of getting any furs-here. I weighed and ran.out again and came to off the village of Nittee Natt, a quarter of a mile from the fliore; attempted to enter a - rivulet there but found too great a furf on the bar to approach, fo ran out and came to nch n o thorns, fand f Point Entrance bearing South by Eaft-the village now off. half a mile , came along-fide the chief,.named Kiffan , latitude at noon 48' 34 North.. 16th.— A P P E N L : X... iStb—Pleafant weather, wind Northerly, at fix P. M. weighed, having purchafed feveral fkins, ran into a fandy bay, or rather cove, where there was a village, two canoes in company decoying us in, when, immediately on our approaching the fhore, the natives affembled on the beach with fpears, bludgeons, bows and arrows, &c. making at the fame time a difmal howling, ufing threatening poftures, which I thought was to prevent us from landing, but I was miftaken, fori had a fhower of arrows thrown roun^ the boat, from a rock at a fmall diftance from us, but luckily none hurt us; fevera 1 fell on the boat's awning, but did not penetrate through, upon which I found myfelf under-'the necefflty of firing at them, but was at too great a diftance to do execution. They then began to launch feveral large canoes, with a number of fpears, &c. on which, I difcharged a-mufketoon at one of them, but, I believe, did not wound any one. However, they immediately left her, and'ran howling into the,woods; I then faw'a man come running down to the beach with a half-pike, which they had found means to take out of the boat, unknown to us; I then perceived that was the reafon of their committing hoftilities, being defirous of retaining what they had ftolen. Upon my receiving the half-pike hoftilities ceafed. I hope there are none of them killed, though, at the fame time, they very richly deferved it. Weighed and run out, feeing no likelihood of getting any furs. Steered Eaft along the coaft, and paffed Point Entrance at the defence of half a mile. At half paft feven o'clock, feveral rocks lying off, and the furf b^ng very high, at ten P. M. came to in eleven fathoms; coral rocks. Calm all the nigjjl 5 the water very fmooth. At day-light we found ourfelves a-breaft a fmall village: feveral canoes came off, but no appearance of any furs. The people faid they were all fubjedt to Wicananifh;—behaved very civilly :—bought from them fome fifh. At feven o'clock weighed; and rowed to the Eaft up the ftraits, it being calm. At nine o'clock, fprung up a light breeze from the Southward. This coaft lies due Eaft and Weft, per compafs.—Coafted along ihore at the diftance of half a mile : foundings eleven fathoms ; feveral places no ground at twenty fathoms.—This coaft is entirely a bed of rocks. At half paft eleven A. M. faw the entrance.of a deep bay; entered ditto at noon, it pro- . niifing very fair for a harbour.—Latitude obferved, 480 27' North. iyth.-r-At two P. M. came to in a fmall cove in three and three quarters fathoms, clofe to the rocks. Regular foundings -along the bay, from fifteen to four fathoms, half a mile from the fhore. This is an excellent harbour for veflels of about 100 or 150 tons; but not water enough over the bar for a larger one, there being only two fathoms at high Ujaeer,- and the tide flows eighteen feet. The bay is a very fafe place for a fhip to ride in the fummer months.:—no wind can hurt her except at South Eaft, and then the bay being very deep, there cannot be much fea. It is alfo good holding ground, being a muddy and fandy bottom. The people here all claim Tatootche for their chief. They appeared, to us, to be a bold, daring fet of fellows; but not being near any of their villages, 5 I was APPENDIX. T was under no apprehenfions. At feven A. M. came along-fide the boat feveral c 'With a great number of men in each. Several of the people attempted to come ir boat; I, at the fame time, defiring them to keep out, net nermittinp- anv of ti the come in; neither did any of the people in the boat fay, or offer to do any thing to them. One of the canors put off a.little from the boat; when one of the favages in her-took up a fpear pointed with mufcle-fhell, and fixed it to a ftaff with a cord made faft to it, at the fame time putting himfelf in a pofture of throwing it, and fignifying, by his geftures, that he would kill me : I, at that time, took no notice of him, not thinking him ferious. Upon infpedting, however, their canoes, I found them all armed with fpears, bludgeons, and bows and arrows; I alfo perceived a number of armed people amongft the trees on fhore, oppofite the boat: I then found they meant to take the boat; upon which, I ordered the people to get their arms ready, and be on their guard, and narrowly to watch the motions of the man with the fpear, and if he attempted to heave it, to fhoot him. The words werefcarce uttered, when I fawthe fpear juft coming out of his hand at E obert Davidfon,. quarter-ma^ ter and cockfwain ; on which I ordered them to.fire,—which one perfon did,,and killed, the man with the fpear on the fpot, the ball going through his head. The reft of the-people jumped overboard,and all the other canoes paddled away. We inftantly had a fhower ol arrows poured on us from the fhore ; upon which a conftant fire was keJ>Kw5 them, but with no effedt, they fheltering themfelves.behind large trees. I was wounded in. the head with an arrow immediately as the man fell. We weighed anchor, and pulled out with two oars, reft of the people at the arms..' We found -the-fhore on both fides lined with d with fpears, ftones, &c. fo that it appeared plainly their intent was to take the boat. A great quantity of arrows and ftones cai ■were wounded mortally. Peter Salatrafs, an Ital the time till we eot clear of them, not- being- abl Keeping't people, ar into the boat, but fortum had5an arrow flicking in ■ ying c h-two prongs; I- was obliged to cut his leg open t inches. The Chinaman was alfo wounded in tii arrow near his heart- As foon as we got clear c >f the bav.—Soundings as regular as coming in :- leg, the arrow-beingbearded, i get it out, as it had penetrated fide, and another feaman receh them, we made'fail, and turnee the'wind Wefterly. Stood over to the other fhore, meaninj the fhip, as I found the native: along the coaft with fafety and without endangering very fore, the arrow having penetrated into my m u a •, „.!,,.„ fnr rav hat. which broke its fore me, had it not been for "^ ^ Weft. This pl a mifchief, and- that i certainl pleafant clear Haw ; Tatootcl efti Ld the other bay I called Hoftility Bay. APPENDIX. xZth.—Pleafant weather; wind South South Weft. At four P. M. tacked off the South fliore, four miles, and flood over to the North fliore of the Straits. At feven o'clock tacked again off fhore, half a mile: at fun-fet the entrance of Port Hawkefbury North by Eaft, Tatootche's Ifland South; Point Entrance Weft South Weft, off the latter eight leagues, and from the former three leagues. Steered during the night North Weft by Weft, and Weft North Weft, with a pleafant breeze and foggy weather, and returned to the fhip. (Copy) ROBERT DTJFFIN. N° V. Mr. MEARES's INSTRUCTIONS to Capt. DOUGLASS, on leaving the AMERICAN COAST. To Capt. William Douglass, commanding the Iphigenia. AS I mean to proceed, immediately on the launch of the North- Weft America, to the Sandwich Iflands, and from thence to China,—the whole charge of the Iphigenia and North-Weft America, will confequently devolve on you. Though I entertain the higheft opinion of your capacity to condudt fo weighty a charge, yet, neverthelefs, I think it neceffary to point out the route you are to purfue after I feparate from you. I have no doubt of your ability to put into execution any meafure or plan for the benefit of your employers: and as you have already given a convincing proof of this in your late voyage, fo in the active fcene that I am about to lay before you, I have no doubt but that your diligence and caution will be redoubled, to bring your future voyage to a happy conclufion. I take the liberty of mentioning this, as it will require yourutmoft attention, your utmoft application and perfeverance, to put into execution fuch plans as I fhall lay down for the benefit of your employers. As I place before you an extenfive field to employ your abilities in, I am well affured that you will take advantage of this circumftance, and fhew the world, that in my opinion of ' you, I have not been miftaken. * In APPENDIX. In order to put every means in your power that I can to enfure foe, plied you with every fpecies of ftores on board the Felice:-Yet, nevertheleff, fr™ ou,-you will have diffii i provide againft. The will, I flatter myfelf, be eceive at the Sandwich which, I recom ave fup- „. lt„lva uu uUalu lne fence-—Yet -~ Tcantinefs of the fupply,-_though all I am enabled to give you,, ties to conquer, which I forefee will require all your vigilance fr material fupplies which I have given you of flower and bread, , of effential confequences, when added to thofe that you will r Iflands. You will there fait down your pork; in performing you to be particularly careful, following the method which Captain Cook *SSif>Sw not obferving this, Captain Colnett, of the Prince of Wales, loft the greateft part of his provifions before he reached the latitude of 3o° North, on his proceeding to the coaft of America. For this purpofe I have given you every calk in my fhip, except the ground tier. The next objedl of your attention will be vegetables, particularly the yam-; of thofe you will obtain fuch a quantity, as I truft will prove a great refrefhment, even on the American Coaft. During the time you are at the Sandwich Iflands, I recommend your ferving no bread; as the abundance and variety of vegetables will render it need- lefs; and fuch a faving, in your prefent ftate, will tend materially to the fuqeefs of your voyage. I recommend the fame precaution in refpedt to your flower. As your ftoek of liquors is entirely exhaufted, and having none to fupply you with, in lieu thereof I have fent you all the effence of fpruce in my poffeffion, as alfo melaffes, in order to make beer. You will ufe this fupply at your pleafure; and as there will not be melaffes fufficient, I recommend to you trying at the iflands the experiment of boiling down fugar-cane; of which, Captain Cook made a pleafant and agreeable beer for his crew: but if you can effect making a fyrup, it muft be particularly grateful to your people with tea, as I have no fugar to fupply you with, and your o\vn is entirely gone. You will try the poffibilky of diftilling rum; for which purpofe-1 fend you a ftill and copper. If thefe points are happily effedted, you will find yourfelf pofleffed of the re- fources to put into execution the plan that I place before you. At all events, I have the ftrongeft reliai n your being able to conquer every difficulty. From the information which I have received from the Princefs Royal, I think it neceffary to warn you of the dangers attending your ftay at thofe iflands; where a crew, immerfed in pleafure, may become but too eafy a prey to fo daring and refolute a fet of people— Your judgment will point out to you to draw your principal refources of provffions^from Owyhee, the windward ifle. The danger of anchoring here, from the multitude or people, is but too evident. With the bay of Mowee you are acquamted -Here Ijould recommend you to anchor, if a fpot free from coral rocks can be fot Titerree is fovereign'of Mowee, Morotoi, and the adjacent ifles, filling between the • le-ffet chiefs, will, in all probity, preven fadtiohs fub- combining to' J* N D X. commit hoftilities on you. The diftance alfo you lie from the fhore of this ifland, will, in fome meafure, tend to your fecurity; and amongft the whole group of thofe iflands, I know no place fo eligible, provided good anchoring-ground can be found. When- the trade-wind blows, it comes down in refrefhing breezes from the fummits of the mountains, and meliorates the fcorching heat of the fun,—every where fo pernicious. If the trade-wind ceafes, and the North-Weft winds blow, you have feveral large and capacious channels to put to fea through, and the danger of a lee-fhore is removed:—and permit me to obferve, that this is the only ftation you can occupy amongft thefe iflands, where this danger is to be avoided; and it is a danger of fuch magnitude, that I muft entreat you, the moment you fee it blacken in the North-Weft, to put inftantly to fea,. as the only means of fafety. The favage fiercenefs of the people of Wahoo, will, I fhould fuppofe, render your ftay at that ifland very fhort. The populoufnefs of Atooi may deter you from making- any long ftay in Wymeo Bay :—You will therefore finally clofe your route at Onehow, where I truft you will guard carefully againft the art and cunning of Taheo and Abinui,. for I think them dreadful, mercenary, artful villains. As they attempted to poifon the crews of the Prince of Wales and Princefs Royal, you will guard againft fuch a diabolical defign, by infpedting the cocoa-nuts, yams, water, &c. making the feller tafte each- From Tianna we have a full knowledge of the extreme fubtilty of a- poifon. in. their, poffeffion, which operates inftantaneoufiy on the vital powers. Should you difcover fuel* an attempt, I recommend to you to feize thofe concerned; and as a tranfadtion of this- nature cannot take place without the knowledge of Taheo and Abmui,. fuch wickednefs; ought to be made an example of. The commerce that the natives of Atooi have had with Europeans, has operated fo much on their natures, that too much caution or viei-r lance cannot be exerted. On no account fuffer i conftantly in your tops, wi mit the natives to fwim bles cut. lore than one or :h arms ready, your guns ibout the fhip; or, moft li your decks at a time. 'Keep people- loaded and primed; and never per- affuredly,. you will have your ca- I truft that you will procure a good fupply of cordage; and I fhould Imagine that the mats, cloth, &c. might be held in as much requeft on the Northern ftation of America -thern;—you will therefore purchafe as many as you think proper as they are on the S for the American rket. I have great hopes that Tianna will be of confiderable fervice to you.—-To this chief I recommend you to be particularly attentive. The placing him agreeable to his wifhes, either r*%^ >n Owyhee, with his relation Tome Tomy Haw, the fovereign,of that i and Atooi, or with his brother Nawmity Haw and family, on the latter ifland, is a point that I feel myfelf extremely interefted in. Whatever Tianna's ambition may be on feeing himfelf fo powerfully fupported, yet we muft not lofe fight of prudence in fet. tling our friend; and we fhall prove his trueft and moft faithful one exactly in the ftation we took him from. We muft therefore not let his ambition ftimu- late us on the one hand, nor our own defires on the other, to raife our friend to a ftation ever envied amongft mankind. Through the generofity of Mr. Cox, he returns unboundedly rich to the circle of his friends. Though greatly deferring in himfelf, yet the line of prudence muft not be paffed; and the example of Omai fhews us the danger attending, the fmiles of fortune, even amongft favage tribes. Independer consideration, a fruitlefs conteft might be entered into, which might eventually, extremely detrimental. You will therefore difmifs him with fuch prefents, in addii to what he has, as you may think proper to confer on him; and as you know his ! guage fo well, I entreat you to meet his ideas of happinefs as far as prudence pern or circumftances put it in your power. The ifland of Onehow furnifhes the pearl-oyfter. You will endeavour to make Tianns fenfible of the treafures they contain, and the importance of them to us; and I have hopes, that during your ftay you will fully afcertain this point. If you think proper to feek the new difcovered ifland, faid to 1 Atooi/-you will in this, as in every other point, be guided by your ju As foon as the America is launched, I fhall proceed on my voyage to China, when you will take on you the direction of future operations. As you have now fo fcanty a fupply of fait provifions on board, and the obtaining fifh being very precarious, I recommend to you to make the beft of your way to the Sandwich Iflands, as foon as the America is ready for fea:—but in this you will be diredted by your judgment, and the fupplies of fifh. Should you procure enough of this article to permit you to remain on the coaft till the end of Odtober,—to employ this time to advantage, I recommend to you to fteer to the latitude 46° North, and trace as much of the coaft between 46"and 400 as you can f as this ionth is efteemed tolerably good. You may fortunately, by exploring this part of the -jaft, light on fome new tribes, which I have the ftrongeft reafon t parts. I have a knowledge that the Spaniards obtained a prodigious number of otter- fkins, which were brought to Manilla in the Galleons, and from thence to China, where I faw them. I am morally- certain that they were not procured to the Northward of 460, as no where did I meet with an atom of the manufactures of Spain, either iron or copper. This portion of America is now all that remains to be known to us5 and fo fortu. N I x. moment may be feized to acquire a competent knowledge of this part of the coaft, as will cither determine us in future to give up this Southern portion of the continent, as unpro* djidtiye of mercantile advantages, or feek the fea-otter in thefe parts. It becomes a queftion, where did the Spaniards procure thefe fkins? And this point I hope you will te able to clear up, fo as, next year, to enable us to take advantage of any difcovery you may make. I ever meant, at fome future period, to trace this part of the coaft. The necef- fite, however, of my immediately proceeding to China, will prevent any expedition of thi§ kind on my part; and your having the North Weft America to affift you, will, I truft, enable you to perform it effedtuall.y, fhould you determine to fpend the month of October onthe coaft:—But I leave this point to be determined by your own judgment and concurrent circumftances. The knowledge we have now obtained of the coaft of America, and of the periodical \3'inds and, feafons, gives us an advantage over all competitors. The years 1790 and 1791 bid fair to be the moft productive that we may ever meet with. Having thefe flaB- tering profpedts before us, our exertions muft be redoubled, effectually to fweep the eoaft • before any veffel can arrive from England. In order to accomplifh this, you will leave the Jgyidj?"0'1 Iftan(is as early as poffible in the year 1789; and, at the fame time, for fear of accidents, or feparation, give your orders to Mr. Funter, that- he may proceed, and put his part of the plan of operations into execution. •JoTjheNorthern diftridl of the continent, I leave to you and the America; the Southern flation 1 fhall occupy myfelf,from China; and lam not without hopes, that by the firft of May, 17S9,1 fhall reach the coaft. I then fhall proceed as circumftances arife:—but let me range which way I will to the Southward, I fhall not attempt to go to the Northw&rd of Nootka. On your parr, I have no dopbt of your arrival ouiihe coaft of America fome time about the firft of April, 1789. By this time the monfoon will be fet in, which, experience has taught us, blows clofe home to the American fhore. Therefore, to embrace the advantages which the monfoon offers, inftead of going immediately to Prince William's Sound, as others have done, I recommend you to make the coaft to the Southward : and as you have the credit of difcovering the Great Ifland, the North-weft fide of \%hii§b, comprehending nearly four degrees of latitude, is entirely undifcovered; I therefore recommend your making Cape Saint James, the Southern extremity of the Great Ifland, as the firft point on the continent of America. Should you find yourfelf retarded by the North Weft America's being a bad failer, you tions; but this bei nftance, as you will probably find her • As you fteer along the North-weft fide of the Great Iftand, you will explore it m ly, to the height of 54° North; where refides a chief, whofe diftridt is large, and Captain Dixon procured, in a few hours, two hundred cloaks, or fix hundred fkins n this Chief's refidence and Cape Saint James, is a track of coaft unexplored; a may not, perhaps, vainly flatter ourfelves, if we fuppofe, that in fuch an extent of c, there refide many chiefs and numerous inhabitants. The monfoon will gradually bloi you along this coaft; and as you will have time and the feafon before you, you will ex plore it thoroughly. Having performed this point, from which gre expected, you will, of courfe, proceed to Otter Sound, a been pleafed to give mjf name. From hence you wih William's Sound, vifiting the various places on the coaft and with which you are now fo well acquainted, particulai to be of fuperior importance. In purfuing this track, I recommend your by the twentieth of May; where I think you ought to remain till the firft of Jui to draw, if poffible, fomething from Cook's River; to which place I would by have you go, as it is now totally in the poffeffion of the Ruffians: proceed! would only be a wafte of valuable time. On the firft of June, therefore, you the Sound, and again proceed to the Southward, retracing your old ftations, (cc the furs as they are procured), until you arrive at the place you have appointed the America. That period, I beg may, r As there is fufficient fcope to employ the N. W. America and 450 30' North, fo in this ftation muft five be occupied. Mr. Funter be clear and explicit. When you fepai titudes of 500 Therefore let your orders to .te at Cape Saint James, he will pro- ceed into the Great Channel, and fteer up the North-eaft fide of the Great Ifland, as high as 54° 3o' North; and be employed alternately between the ifland and_ the main-land of ' America; a plan of which is now in your poffeffion as well as information o the various chiefs, and their places of refidence -the paper f^^J^^^^1 rent in vourorosrefs you lee occaiion to uucv-v. ui cept myoui p,u& } v,nf mnoratulate ourfelves on building fuch a 5 N X. Royal. Thus will fhe be employed until the period that you appoint for the rendezvous arrives; "which, I truft, will be about the beginning of Auguft. By this time fhe will have traverfed repeatedly the head of the Great Ifland,—the North-eaftern fhore of the fame,—and all the main continent from 50* 30' North, to 54° 3c/ North. Thus every inch of ground between Prince William's Sound and Nootka will be occupied and repeatedly traverfed, except the North Weft fide of the Great Ifland; and as here again you may • expedt a further fupply fince you left it, I leave it entirely to your option and difcretion to permit the N. W. America to run down this ftation, on her way to join me at Nootka. When you meet at the time appointed, you will write me fully of your proceedingsj and you will proceed with the Iphigenia, with all difpatch, to Mednoi, or Copper Ifland; where I truft you will arrive by the tenth of September, or at leaft before the North-wefters fet in. In performing this part of your inftructions, I leave you to adl at difcretion, and as circumftances arife. You may meet with, or hear of other fhips being on your ftation, with whom you will have to contend; or other material circumftances, which may make a deviation from thefe orders neceffary. I therefore here leave you entirely free; as I muft repeat, I do alfo in every other refpect. I have pointed out the object of Copper Ifland; and no feafon appears fo favourable to put a vifit to it in execution as the month of Auguft; by which period, I truft, both you and the N. W. America will have fwept the Northern ftation effedtually; at leaft, what remains to be done, you will order Mr. Funter to per form previous to his joining me at Nootka, which place I fhall await his arrival until the 20th day of November, 178-9; when feeing nothing of him, on that day I fhall proceed to the Sandwich Iflands, and wait your and his arrival in Wymeo Bay, on the ifland of Atooi; or at the anchoring-ground, the ifland of Onehow, until the firft day of January, 1790; when, neither you nor the N. W. America arriving, I fhall conclude that fome fatal accident has happened, and make the beft of my way to China. This period leaves fufficient time for the completion of all operations; yet 1 hope that the Iphigenia and N. W. America will reach the iflands by the firft of December, 1789. I here leave difcretional powers with you; fearful of circumftances arifing which no human forefight can guard againft. You will perceive how much I rely on your judgment and abilities. Favourable winds may permit you to reach Copper Ifland by the ift of September; when you will explore the ifland, and endeavour to find a place of fhelter againft the approaching equinodtial,—ever to be dreadedin high Northern latitudes. If the copper-ore is in 1 huge N° I. COPY OF THE. MEMORIAL Prefented to The House of Commons, May 13, 1790:—Containing every Particular refpeSling the Capture of the Veffels in Nootka Sound. THE Memorial of John Meares, Lieutenant in his Majefty's Navy, moft humbly fheweth,—That early in the year 1786, certain merchants refiding in the Eaft Indies, and under the immediate protection of the Company, defirous of opening a trade, with the North Weft Coaft of America, for fupplying the Chinefe market with furs and ginfeng, communicated fuch defign to Sir John Macpherfon, the governor-general of India, who not only approved of the plan, but joined in the fubfeription for its execution; and two veffels were accordingly purchafed, and placed under the orders and command of your Memorialift. That in the month of March your Memorialift difpatched one of the faid veffels, which he named The Sea Otter, under the command of Mr. Tipping, to Prince William's Sound, and followed her in the other fhip, which he named The Nootka. That on your Memorialift's arrival in Prince William's Sound, in the month of September, he found the Sea Otter had left that place a few days before ; and, from intelligence he has fince received, the fhip was foon after unfortunately loft off the coaft of Kamtfchatka. That your Memorialift remained in Prince William's Sound the whole of the winter; in the courfe of which time he opened an extenfive trade with the natives; and having ' colledted a cargo of furs, he proceeded to China, in the autumn of 1787. That in the month of January 1788, your Memorialift having difpofed of the Nootka, ' he, in conjundtion with feveral Britifh merchants refiding in India, purchafed and fitted out two other veffels, named the Felice and Iphigenia; the former your Memorialift commanded, and the latter he put under the diredtion of Mr. William Douglafs. That; your Memorialift proceeded from China to the Port of Nootka, or King George's Sound, which he reached in the month of May, and the Iphigenia arrived in Cook's River in the month of June. That your Memorialift, immediately on his arrival in Nootka Sound, purchafed from ' Maquilla, the chief of the diftridt contiguous to, and furrounding that place,' a fpot of ; ground, I APPENDIX. ground, tthotdn he built a houfe for his occafional refidence, as well as for the more cor., venientpurfuit of his trade with the natives, and hoifted the Britifh colours thereon, *at S3 alfo erected a breaft-work, which furrounded the houfe, and mounted one three- pounder in front; that having fo done, your Memorialift proceeded to trade on the coaft the Felice taking her route to the Southward, and the Iphigenia to the Northward con- fiatagtMmfelves within the limits of 60° and 45° 3o' North, and returned to Nootka Sound m th; month of September; that on your Memorialift's arrival there, his people; whom he had left behind, had nearly compleated a veffel, which, previous to his departure, he had laid down; and that the faid veffel was foon after launched by your Memorialift, and called tfee North-Weft America, meafuring about forty tons, and was equipped with all expedition to affift him in his enterprizes. That, during the abfence of your Memorialift from Nootka Sound, he obtained from Wicananifh, the chief of the diftrict furrounding Port Cox and Port Effingham, fitua^d in the latitudes 480 and 490, in confequence of confiderable prefents, the promife of a free and excluftve trade with the natives of the diftriB, and.alfo his permiffion to build any ftore- houfes, or other edifices, which he might judge neceffary; that he alfo acquired the fame privilege of exclufive trade from Tatootche, the chief of the country bordering on the Straits of John De Fuca, and purchafed from him a tradt of land withiiithe faid ftrait, which one of your Memorialift's officers took poffeffion of in the King's name, calling the fame Tatootche, in honour of the chief. ; • That' the Iphigenia, in her progrefs to the Southward, alfo vifited feveral ports, and in confequence of prefents to the chiefs of the country, her commander had affurances' given to him of not only a free accefs, but of an exclufive trade upon that coaft, no other ' European veffel having been there before her. That your Memorialift, on the 23d of September, having collected a cargo of furs, proceeded in the Felice to China, leaving the Iphigenia and the North-Weft America in Nootka Sound, with orders to winter at the Sandwich Iflands, and to return to the coaft in the Spring. That your Memorialift arrived in China early in the month of December, where he fold his cargo, and alfo the fhip Felice. That a few days after your Memorialift's arrival in China, the fhips Prince of Wales and Princefs Royal, fitted out from the Port of London by Meffrs. John and Cadman Etches and Co. came to Canton from a trading voyage on the North Weft Coaft gf America j and your Memorialift finding that they had embarked in this commerce under licences granted to them by the Eaft India and South Sea Companies which would not expire uftil the year 1790, and apprehending at the fame time that the trade£«ft, - fer by a competition, he and bis partners affociated themfelves with the fed Meffrs. EtchL and Co. and a formal agreement was executed in confequence between your Me- mortiftandM, John Etches, then fupracargo of the two fhips, -king a joint flock N I X. of all the veffels and property employed in that trade; and. under that firm they purchafed a fhi'p, which had been built at Calcutta, and called her the Argonaut. . That the Prince of. Wales having been chartered to load teas for the Eaft India Com. pany, foon after returned to England ; and the Princefs Royal and Argonaut were ordered by your Memorialift to fail for the coaft of America, under the command of Mr. James Colnett, to whom the charge of all the concerns of the company on the coaft had been - Mr. Colnett was directed to fix his refidence at Nootka Sound, and, with that view, . to eredt a fubftantial houfe on the fpot which your Memorialift had purchafed in the preceding year; as will appear by a copy of his inflructions hereunto annexed. That the Princefs Royal and Argonaut, loaded with "ftores and provifions of alt defcriptions, with articles eftimated to be fufficient for the trade for three years, and a veffel on board in frame, of about thirty tons burthen, left China accordingly in the months of April and May, 1789. They had alfo on board, in addition to their crews, feveral artificers of different profeffions, and near feventy Chinefe, who intended to become fettlers on the American coaft, in the fervice, and under the protection of the af- fociated company. . , That on the 24th of April, 17S9, the Iphigenia returned to Nootka Sound; and that the North?Weft America reached that place a few days after: that they found, on their arrival in that port, two American veffels, which, had wintered there ; one of them was. called the Columbia, the other the Wafhington : that on the 29th of the fame month, the North-Weft America was difpatched to the North ward to trade, and alfo to explore the Archipelago of St. Lazarus. That on the 6th of May, the Iphigenia being then at anchor in Nootka Sound,, a Spanifh fhip of war, called the Princeffa, commanded by Don Stephen Jofeph Martinez, mounting twenty-fix guns, which had failed from the Port of San Bias, in the Province, of Mexico, anchored in Nootka Sound, and was joined on the 13th by a Spanifh fnow of fixteen guns, called the San Carlos, which veffel had alfo failed from San Bias, loaded, with cannon and other warlike ftores. That from the time of the arrival of the Princeffa until the 14th of May, mutual civilities paffed between Captain Douglas and the Spanifh officers, and even fupplies were obtained from Don Martinez for the ufe of the fhip; but on that day hey Captain. Douglas, was ordered on board the Princeffa, and, to his great furprize, was informed by Don Martinez, that he had the King's orders to feize all fhips and veffels he might find upon that coaft, and that he, the Commander of the Iphigenia, was then his pri- foner : that Don Martinez thereupon inftructed his officers to take poffeffion of the Iphigenia, which they accordingly did, in the name of his Catholic Majefty, and the officers, and crew of that fhip, were immediately conveyed as prifoners on board the Spanifh fhips^ where they were put in irons,, and were othervvife ill treated. That - APPENDIX. • That as foon as the Iphigenia had been feized, Don Martinez took poffeffion of the lands belonging to your Memorialift, on which his temporary habitation before mentioned had been erected, hoi fling thereon the ftandard of Spain, and performing fuch c nies as your Memorialift underftands are ufual on fuch occafions; declaring, at the fame time, that all the lands comprized between Cape Horn and the fixtieth degree of North latitude did belong to his Catholic Majefty; he then proceeded to build batteries, ftore-. houfes, &c. in the execution of which he forcibly employed fome of^e crew of the Iphigenia, and many of them who attempted to refill were very feverely punifhed. That during the time the commander of the Iphigenia remained in captivity, he had frequently been urged by Don Martinez.to fign an inftrument, purporting, as he was informed, (not underftanding himfelf the Spanifh language) that Don Martinez had found : in great diftrefs; that he had he Sandwich iflands; and that i Nootka Sound ; every thing neceffary for his paffage him at anchor furnifhed hirj his navigation had in no refpedt been molefted or interrupted : but whicn paper, on in- fpection of a copy thereof, delivered to Mr. Douglas, and hereunto annexed, (No. II.) appears to be an obligation from him and Mr. Viana, the fecond captain, on the part of their owners, to pay on demand the valuation of that veffel, her cargo, &c. in cafe the Viceroy of New Spain fhould adjudge her to be lawful prize, for entering the Port of Nootka without the permiffion of his Catholic Majefty: that Captain Douglas, conceiving that the port of Nootka did not belong to his Catholic Majefty, did frequently refufe to accede to this propofal; but that.Don Martinez, partly by threats, and partly by pro- Bilfes of reftoring him to his command, and of furnifhing-him with fuch fupplies of- ftores and provifions as he might ftand in need of, ultimately carried his point; and having fo done, he, on the 26th of the fame month, was reftored to the command of the Iphigenia, but reftrained from proceeding to fea, until the return of the North-Weft America; infilling that he fhould then difpofe of her for 400 dollars, the price which one of the American captains had fet upon her. That during the time the Spaniards held poffeffion of the Iphigenia, fhe was ftripped of all the merchandize which had been provided for trading, as alfo of her ftores, provifions,- nautical inftruments, charts, &c. /ery-other article (exceptii y could conveniently. away, /en to the e bars of iron) which matter's watch, and articles of cloathing. That the commander of the Iphigenia, findi lief, and after much felicitation obtained a tri; which he was called upon to give bills on his charged at a moft exorbitant price, and very unequal in. quality or quantity to thofe which had been taken from him. lanr- , r. That notwithstanding what had been infilled on by Don Martha refpecting the fair of the North Weft America, he bad conftantly refufed to dffpofe of that.vefle! himfelf thus diftreffed, applied for re- ; fupply of ftores and provifions, for ners. The articles fo fupplied were D 2 ground, APPENDIX. ground, alleging that, as fhe did not belong to him, he had no right todifpofe of her % that the North-Weft America not returning fo foon as was expedted, he, Capt. Douglas, was told by Don Martinez, that on his ordering that voflel to be delivered to him for the ufe of his Catholic Majefty, he fhould have liberty to depart with the Iphigemaij that he accordingly, on the firft of June, wrote a letter to the mafter of the North-Weft America, but cautioufly avoided any directions to the effedt dafired, (vide Iphigenia^' Journal) and av*§i|ing himfelf of Don Martinez's ignoranceiof the EngHih language, he inftantly failed from Nootka Sounds though in avery unfit-condition topfloteeed on fuch a voyage, leaving behind him the two American veffels which had been- f&srffered to continue there unmolefted by the Spaniards, from the time of thek'fcft arrival; that the Iphigenia proceeded from thence to the Sandwich Iflands, and after obtaining there fuch fupplies as they were enabled to procure with the iron .before naeoafened* returned to China, and anchored there in the month of O&ober, 1789. Your Memorialift thinks it neceffary upon this occafion to explain, that in order to evade the exceffive high port charges demanded by the Chinefe from allosher European nations, excepting the Portuguefe, that he and his affociates had obtained the name of Juan Cawalho to their firm, though he had no adtual concern in their ftock;. that Caavadlbc^ I though by birth a Portuguefe, had been naturalized at Bombay, and had refided therefor many years, under the protedtion of the Eaft India Company, and had carried on an extenfive trade from thence to their feveral fettlemenfisiit that part of the world. That the intimacy fubfifting between Cawalho and the governor of Macao had been- the principal caufe of their forming this nominal connection; and that Cawalho had in confequence obtained his permiffion that the two fhips above mentioned, in cafe it fhould be found convenient fo to do, fhould be allowed to navigate under, or claim any advantages; granted to the Portuguefe flag. That this permiffion had anfwered the purpofe of your Memorialift, fo far as refpedfced. the port charges of the Chinefe, until the return of the Iphigenia j, but the Portuguefe Governor dying foon afterher departure, and Cawalho becoming a bankrupt, his creditors demanded his intereft in that fhip} that your Memorialift ^having refilled theiir claim, an application-was made by them to the fucceeding governor for poffeffion of the- fhip; that the governor had, in confequence,dinvestigated the tranfadtion,, and. finding that Cawalho had no adtual concern or intereft in the property, obliged her to quit the port; that this proceeding had fubjedted the Iphigenia at once to the increafed port charges, which were inftantly demanded by, and paid to,, the Chinefe. Your Memorialift has ftated this tran&dfcioa chus*fully, in order to fhew/tfaat the Iphigenia and her cargo were adtually and bond fide Britifo-property, as well as to explain the occafion of the orders which were given to her commander, extracts of whfchiaccompany this, and are referred to in the journal of that fhip,, having, been under the infpedtion of Don Martinez. Your e departure of the Iphigenia, with which he had been fur- i off the port of Nootka, on pped for war, '- pofleffio o the Sound, ioned vefl'el A P P E N D I Your Memorialift further begs leave to ftate, that after t! Don Martinez became apprized of the purport of the letter mfhed; and that, on the return of the North-Weft Americ the 9th of June, fhe was boarded and feized' by boats ma commanded by Don Martinez; that he did tow and convey the faid veffel i", and anchoring her clofe to the Spanifh fhips of war, did t name of his Catholic Majefty, as good and lawful prize ; that the was foon after hauled alongfide of the Spanifh frigate ; and that the officers gether with the fkins which had been collected, amounting to 215, of the beft qua'lity, and alfo her ftoreS, tackle, and furniture, articles of trade, &c. were removed on board the Spanifh frigate; that the commander of the North-Wirft America, his officers and men, were accordingly made prifoners, and Mr. Thomas Barnett, one of the officers of that veffel, and fome of her men were, as appears by the affidavit of William Graham one of the feamen belonging to that veffel, hereunto annexed, (No. IV.) afterwards put That the Princefs Royal arriving a few days after the feizure of the North-Weft America, and being allowed by Don Martinez to depart, the fkins collected by the laft mentioned veffel (excepting twelve of the beft quality, which Don Martinez thought fit to detain) were returned to.the matter, and, with the permiffion of Don Martinez, were fhipped on board the Princefs Royal, for the benefit of the owners; and that fhip, as appears by her Journal, put to fea on the ad of July, to purfue the trade upon the coaft. That Don Martinez, after feizing the North-Weft America in the manner and under the circumftances above ftated, employed her on a trading voyage, from which fhe returned after an abfence of about twenty days, with feventy-five fkins, obtained by Britifh merchandize, which had either been found in that veffel at the time of her capture, or had been taken from the Iphigenia; and that the value of the furs fo collected cannot, upon a moderate calculation, be eftimatcd at lefs than 7,500 dollars, and which Don Martinez had applied to his own advantage. That the Argonaut arrived off the Port of Nootka on or about the 3d of July, 1789. That Don Martinez, on obferving her in the offing, boarded her in his launch, and with expreflions of civility, promifed Mr. Colnett, her commander, every affiftance in his power • that before the Argonaut entered the Sound, Mr. Thomas Barnett (who had belonged'to the North-Weft America, and who was then a prifoner) came off in a canoe, and informed Mr. Colnett of the proceedings which had taken place, and of the danger to which he was expofed; but that, under the affurance* given by Don Martinez, that- the Argonaut fhould remain unmolefted, and being in wantof refrefhments for the crew, Mr. Colnett proceeded into Nootka Sound. That, notwithftanding the affurances given by Don Martmez, he on ***** toy, Jthe firft lieutenant of the Princeffa, with a military force, to take poffeffi^of the N I X. Argonaut; and that fhip was accordingly feized in the name of his Catholic Majefty, the Britifh flag was hauled down, and the Spa.nifh flag hoifted in its ftead. That on the feizure of the Argonaut, her officers and' men were made prifoners; and Mr. Colnett was threatened to be hanged at the yard arm, in cafe of his refilling compliance with any diredtions which might be given to him. That on the 13th of July, the Princefs Royal, as is ftated in her Journal, again appeared off the Port of Nootka ; that her commander approaching the Sound in his boat, in expedtation of finding there the commander of the expedition, (from whom he was cleiirous of receiving inftrudtions for his future, proceedings) was feized and made prifoner by Don Martinez, and under threats of hanging him at the yard-arm, forced him to fend orders to his officers to deliver up the Princefs Royal without conteft. That a Spanifh officer was difpatched into the offing with thefe orders; and that the veffel was accordingly feized in the name of his Catholic Majefty, and brought into port; that her crew were in confequence made prifoners; and that her cargo, confifting of 473 fkins, including 203 which had been put on board her from the North-Weft America, as appears by the inclofed receipt, (No. V.) was feized. That Mr. Colnett, from the circumftances of his capture, became fo deranged, that, he attempted'frequently to deftroy himfelf; and that, according to the laft accounts received, the ftate of his mind was fuch as to render him unfit for the management of any bufinefs which might have been entrufted to his care ; that in this melancholy fituation, however, Don Martinez, notwithstanding the veffel and cargo had before been formally feized, attempted to procure from him the fale of the copper, of which a principal part of the cargo of the Princefs Royal had been compofed; and that fuch fale would actually have taken place, had not the other officers of that veffel, feeing Colnett's infanity, prevented it. Your Memorialift farther begs leave to reprefent, that the American fhip Columbia intending to proceed to China, the crew of the North-Weft America were ordered by Don Martinez on board her ; principally, as your Memorialift understands, for the purpofe of affifting her in her navigation to China, the greateft part of her own crew, as well as of her provifions, having been previoufly put on board the Wafhington, in order that fhe might be enabled to continue on the coaft. That the Columbia having reduced her provifions confiderably from the fupplies fhe. had fpared to her confort, was furnifhed from the Argonaut, by order'of Don Martinez, with what was neceffary for her voyage, faid to be intended, however, for the fupply of the North-Weft America ; that previous to the departure of the Columbia, ninety-fix fkins were alfo put on board her, as appears by the paper hereunto annexed, (No.VI.) to defray the wages of the officers and crew of the North-Weft America, under a fup- pofition that their late employers would be unable to liquidate their demands; firft de-" dudting, ceived to be the whole, excepti ledted by the Americans and Spa after fparing a further quai to China, where fhe arrived Weft America. - That the crew of the North-Weft Am in the Columbia, faw the Argonaut pre fleers and men, who were Euiopeans, w Princefs Royal was Shortly to follow, w The Wafhington, on joining the Columbia . cefs Royal had alfo Vailed for San Bias. That Don Martinez had thought fit, however, to detain the Chinefe, and had compelled them to enter into the fervice of Spain; and that, on the departure of the Columbia, they were employed in the mines, which had then been opened on the lands which your Memorialift had purchafed. Your Memorialift begs, leave to annex a depofition of the officers and crew of the North-Weft America, together with an extract of the Journal of the Iphigenia, and alfo fome letters which he has received from Mr. Duffin, fecond officer of the Argonaut; rill ferve to throw confiderable light on the feveral tranfactions alluded to .... al : He alfo has fubjoinc-d a Statement of the adtual as well as the probable loffes which he and his affociates have fuftained from the unwarrantable and unjuftifiable proceedings of Don Martinez, in open violation of the this country and the Court of Spain, 2 ......non laws of hofpitality, they might have expected a Your Memorialift therefore moft humbly beg his affociates to the confideration of Government neceffary meafures will be taken to obtain as British fubjeds, a right to. expedr. (Signed) JOHN MEARES. London, 30th of April, 1790. Your Memorialift alfo begs leave to a given by Don Martinez, of his having obtained poffeffion of the North-Weft America. (No. XI.) J- M. E N D I X. N° II. COPY of a LETTER from Mr. MEARES dated i.yth April, 178; Captain COLNETT, [7« Mr. Meares's Memorial of 30th April, 1790. No. I ] Macao, nth April/1789. SIR, SO foon as the Argonaut is ready for fea, you will proceed on vour voyage, and put into execution the feveral plans we have laid down, and with which you are fo thoroughly acquainted; you are alfo fo perfectly informed of the bafis they are founded on, that any recapitulation here would be needlefs. We place the ftrongeft reliance on your perfeverance, temper and prudence, and are convinced that our hopes •can.only be matured but through an exertion of thofe difpofitions. We ftrenuoufly recom-' mend a moderate ufe of the powers you are invefted with, not only in your tranfadtions with fhips of foreign nations,—who muft.be treated with that good faith and generofity which form the characteristic of the Englifh nation, and which muft turn ultimately to the honour and credit of your employers,—but to all fhips of our own nation, to whom we- defire you to be particularly attentive in cafes of diftrefs, or any other calamitous fituation they may be thrown into. We imprefs on your mind this point, not only for the honour and credit refulting to us from fuch a liberal line of conduct, but from the abfolute neceffity of avoiding all fubjedt of difpute with foreign powers: we hope that no motive whatever will induce you to deviate from this point; as we affure you, that a commerce that is not carried on with honour and refpedtability, as well as humanity, would be entirely repugnant to our feelings as men, and characters as Britifh merchants,—a character, which appears to us in fo refpectable a light, that no emolument, no advantage whatever, would perfuade us to countenance the fmalleft deviation from it in the perfons and adis of thofe we employ. Reports having been fpread af great adts of cruelty and inhumanity being committed by the crews of various veflels on the coaft of America, in their commerce with the natives, we now embrace the earlieft opportunity of exprefling our utter abhorrence of fuch hoftile acts: we Sincerely hope that no perfon,or perfons in our employ, will have caufe to be reproached with any thing of this kind—adts, which we never will countenance or protedt; on the contrary, we fhall ufe every means in our power to have the perpetrators punifhed. We therefore moft particularly order, that if, in the courfe of your command,' any perfon or perfons whatever, in our employ, Shall commit any murder on the natives of 5 America, N D X. America, or on others, than yon feize the offenders, and puwhem in irons, and fend thei to the agents in Qtii»,i» order that they may be brought to condign punishment; we - here neceffitated to dwell on this fubjedt, from the Strc being committed, which a reports of fuch atrocious acts e at once not only destructive of the commerce, but of every fen- timent of humanity; we recommend a fteady purfuance of a mild conduct, as the only means to cultivate the good-will of the natives, and draw them within the verges of civilized life. 1 We recommend to you, if poffible, to form a treaty with the various chiefs, particularly near Nootka. If youbappily accomplish this, you at once become poffeffed of the furs of a great diftridt with honour and credit, and without incurring a ftigma; and, if there is a poffibilky of conquering our competitors, we beg it may be in a mode honourable to ourfelves, and conducted with as much generofity and humanity as a ftridt attention to our bufinefs will admit. On the ftrength of a treaty we form confiderable hopes; for, although at the moment it may .not be productive, yet in time it will be found the moft Stable way of accomplishing our wifhes, and gaining the confidence of the chiefs, who are known to manage the commerce of their fubjedts: for this purpofe we have fupplied you abundantly with every article known to be had in eftimation among them; and fo anxious are we to have a good understanding, and the perfedting a treaty, that we autborife you to take under your protection all our aUies, and protedt them from infult from all perfons whatever. Our fen- skn, that tj recorded; all opportd In plana aygoi hd you themfelv-j iry of you 111 forwan 1 pe xfeos vhom t of your proceedin mute occurrence s, from time to ti order re, by ng a facto fry on the coaft o Ibandoned at pleafur nient ftation, only to place y the fear of the fmalleft finifter] Indians to it, to lay up the fmall \ America, we look to a folid establishment, and not We authorife you to fix it at the moft conve- lolony in peace and Security, and fully protected from dent. The obiedt of a port of this kind, is to draw the reffels in the winter feafon, to build, and for other commercial purpoSes. ' When this point is effefted, different trading houfes will be eftablifhed at Stations that your knowledge of the coaft and its commerce point out to be the moft advantageous. In the courfe of the fummer we recommend your leaving Single perfons to refide with fome of your friends, the-chiefeof the Charlotte Ifles, in order to colled the furs; the •Mlvttt in full perfUafion of your returning to them, would keep back from our compe- #fiorsr and here at once you will perceive the advantages to be derived from conciliating fbeir confidence and good-will. To fuch people who are prone to ferve their employ- «* rewards Should be given, which fhould be agreeable to their fuccefs. V r fo well'acquainted with the American commerce, that it would be needlefs * Ml'on the neceffity of hufbanding your articles of trade, of guarding W^^ APPENDIX. impositions of the native merchants, and of impreffing them with an idea of the fuperiv ority of your mercbandife, &c. &c. The tide of fancy of thofe people' may be turned ; the ficklenefs of their difpofition is well known to you, as well as your ingenuity to us in« combating thofe difficulties. On the fall of the year we wifh all the fmall craft to be laid up at the fadtory, which you will name Fort Pitt. You will inveSt Mr. R. Duffin with the fuperintendance of this ftation, and ftrenuoufly recommend him, to keep good order and harmony therein; to build ftorehoufes for the reception of the tackle and furniture of the Shipping that you may order to be laid up; and, above all, to recommend to him to ufe every precaution againft the fcurvy, by exercife and the unremitting ufe of the decodtion of pine tops. You will, in the winter feafon, fend what veffels you judge proper to the Sandwich Iflands for provifions, &c. In their return, we imagine that fome of the natives of thofe- ifles, both men and women, may be embarked and tranfplanted to America, and made ufeful in our employ; this muft be done with their own confents, and with every precaution with regard to their health as well as happinefs. We defire the Argonaut may be returned to China .the end of this feafon with the furs* You will deliver her to Captain William Douglafs, and receive from him-the Iphigenia and America, fluffing, the crews, &c.s &c. You will alfo receive his furplus trade, and all other ftores of that nature,.and in return fupply him with refreshments to carry him to the • iflands, where he can procure a fupply. The furs you fend to China, we defire may be .well cleaned-, and otherwife dreffed, claffed, and put into chefts; famples of each quality muft be put into a Separate box;. every Skin, piece, and tail, muft be numbered, and a register kept of the whole, and tranf- mitted to us, with your other difpatches, by Captain Douglas : in thefe you will be very particular in advifing us of all-articles-wanted for the year 1790. We recommend to your attention the ftate .of the markets in China;, the vaft difference between good and bad fkins, as a guidance to your purehafes on the coaft; as 100 prime Skins are moft affuredly worth 500 bad, independent of leffening the value of your articles of commerce. , All collections of furs, to the lateft period, you will fend home in the. . Argonaut. Sea-ottersfailsand feal fkins-now become an object, from the price they bear.—It will be entirely needlefs to diredr. you in' the purehafes of furs, where you are fo well acquainted; this-we leave entirely to yourfelf; but we cannot avoid reminding you, arid to defire a ftridt attention is paid, that no illicit commerce is carried on by any perfons in our employ 1 on-any circumftances of this kind, the offenders may depend on our exadting, in the ftridteft manner, the penalties whicha breach of articles may incur. The pay of officers of every defcription is extremely liberal; and we fhall efteem it the duty of every individual to make known fuch circumftances of illicit commerce as may come within their knowledge, as in our eyes it is equally criminal,., and Shews a great negledt of APPENDIX, of their employers' intereft, to either hide or Stifle fuch difcovery; and you have our moft pofitive orders, on fuch points coming to your knowledge, inftantly to difmifs fuch perfons, and thofe concerned, from our fervice; nor will we permit any deviation from this point, except your reafons are ftrong and fufficient for purfuing a different line of condudt. our fervice all perfons who Shall refufe to obey ; and, in this cafe, we give you to understand,' pall craft, are always to continue on the coaft , :n the time of their fervice is up, muft be em* 1 on no account whatever will we Suffer a-devi- of Meffrs. Etches and Co. on the coaft, you 1 your power; but as we fhall have no intereft manders to trade on our joint account, it will inexions whatever muft'be, except on account ltrufted with the command of thofe Ships, you ions with Mr. Etches: you will in confequence d of all their furplus ftores, or articles of commerce, &c. they have n order that they may be left in the fadtory; and a particular account if all that are delivered, as they muft be accounted for to Mr. Etches by Company. ' We have no doubt but that your requisition will be complied with, as it nately tends to the good of their employers. he number of competitors you will meet with on the coaft, will, we fear, fomewhat inifh your collection of furs, as well as enhance their price; we have no doubt of your rity and perfeverance, as well as addrefs, in your negotiations. We place the ftrongeft nee on your vigilance and caution; and as we have conferred on you the moft ample ers, in return we look for confiderable refponfibility, and a happy completion of our s. In a full perfuafion of this, we fhall take our leave, with a ftrong recommenda- of unanimity amongft your officers, wKhyou health and a profperous voj We alfo ai thor fe you to d fmifs f om yo youro rders, whe n thev are fc rour b nefit; the Pr ncefs Roy a 1, America and o rher fn of Am erica; theii officers and people , whe barked on thf reti rningfhip oChin i; and ation f omth ofeo rders. Shoi ild yo a me et with any of the fhips will of courfe affo d them eve yaffifta in tho efhip. , if jrou can inc uce th comr be moft agree able to US; but 10 tradi ngcon of the prefen con ipany. To the per fon en will m kekn own he nature o fourcc nnexi to difpofe of, muft be takei ind the Strideft difcipline over your people—. And remain, &c. J. MEARES. For Meffrs,'Etches, Cox, and Co. A P P E N D I N° III. EXTRACTS of LETTER from Mr. MEARES to CAPTAIN COLNETT, dated Macao, i$th April, 1789. [In Mr. Meares's Memorial of the 30th April, 1790. To- accompany Inclofure No. I.] " WE have well-founded information, that Mr. Jaques, Mate of the Princefs. Royal, gave copies of his own and Captain Hudfon's journals and charts to Captain Met- calf, who commanded an American fhip, when he was in China. This adt of Mr. Jaques we efteem to militate fo extremely againft himfelf and our fervice, that we defire you to return him to China. " As it is probable, that in autumn, 1790, you may meet with a Store Ship from England, on the company's account, we have the Strongest hopes, that Should that event happen, that from her you will form the entire establishment of the coaft on fuch reafon- able terms under the prefent, that will meet our fatisfadtion, and enable the "Company,, through the medium of oeconomy, to deftroy all competition. It is probable, however,, that all- thofe engagements may be fettled in England prior to the departure of the ftore- fliip: in this cafe you will refign the charge of your concerns to thofe who are appointed to manage the fame, and return, with the officers and people who are impreffed from China, in the Store-fhip, or the Argonaut, whichever you think moft eligible; but we rather apprehend that, by the above period, you will have fo much tonnage on the coaft, that it will be needlefs detaining the Argonaut, more particularly as we Shall want her in 1791* to return her again to the coaft. We have nothing more to repeat in addition to the- former orders." N° IV. OBLIGATION TO RESTORE THE SHIP IPHIGENIA TO HIS CATHOLIC MAJESTY IF DEEMED A LAWFUL PRIZE. [In Mr. Meares's Memorial of the 30th April, 1790. No II. j ON board His Majefty's Frigate, called Our Lady of the Rofary, alias the Princefs, 25th May, of faid year; I, Dn Francis Jofeph Viana, and Don William Douglas, the firft Captain, and the fecond Supracargo of the Packet-boat Iphigenia Nubiana, lit Nubian a, at APPEND] tnchor in this Port of St. Lawrence of No i being < I> John Cawalho, inhabitant of and trader at Macao; We fay that we oblige ourfelves (in name of faid Cawalho, to whom-belongs faid Packet-boat) to fatis'fy whomfoever Shall prefent to us the import of valuation by experienced perfons of faid veffel, with lading and other appurtenances on board; and in order the better to certify in the antecedent - inventory, in cafe that H. E. the Viceroy of.New Spain may judge the faid packet-boat, the Iphigenia, to be a prize, on account of having found us at anchor in faid Port of Nootka, without having a paffport, permiffion, or particular from His Catholic Majefty for fo'doing, that is, for navigating'or anchoring in feas or pons belonging to his dominions. For all which we obli aid D-Jol Cawalho, as lawful owner of faid packet, and we objjge ourfelves in his name, in lawful form, with our perfons and effedts, prefent and future, to the fatisfadion of t value quantity of contents of faid-inventory, mafts, Stores,- cargo, &c. contained in faid j ventory; fubjedting ourfelves, "as we do fubjedt ourfelves, to the laws, pragmatic faij tions, and ordinances of faid Sovereign;-and renouncing, as we do renounce, all lai liberties, and privileges, which-might favour us, without it being neceffary in the exj bition of the faid quantity, in which we may be condemned, to have recourfe to law-fuj uhftamped for although this obligation be made upon fimple paper, we give it as much force and value as if it were a writing made before a royal or public notary, and for its force we Sign three of one tenor, one being fulfilled, the others to be of no value, which we have figned with our hand.and Signature, and authorized by the Commandant Dn Stephen T0feph and by the proper Notary, Raphael de Canizares, on faid day, month, and year, being witneffes thereto Dn John Kendrick, Commander of the Bofton frigate', named the Columbia, and D" Jofeph Ingraham, fecond captain and firft pilot of faid frigate; and of this I give faith—Francis Jofeph Viana—William Douglas—John Kendrick—Jofeph Ingraham—Stephen Jofeph Martinez—Raphael de -Canizares. This is a literal copy of the Obligation, of which triplicates were figned at the foot of the inventory made of the faid packet-boat of Macao, whereof I certify. On board the Princefs frigate, 26th May, 17S9. RAPHAEL DE CANIZARES. No Y. N° V. EXTRACT of a LETTER from Mr. MEARES /* Capt. WILLIAM DOUGLAS, Commanding the IPHIGENIA; dated at Sea, zd February, 1788. {In Mr. Meares's Memorial of the 30th April, 1790. No III.] O N your return to Macao you will feal up your log-book, charts, plans, &c. &c. &c. and forward them to Daniel Beale, Efquire, Canton, who is the oftenfible agent for the concern; and you have the moft particular injunctions not to communicate, or give copies of any charts or plans that you may make, as your employers affert a right fo all of them, and as fuch will claim them. Should you, in the courfe of your voyage, meet with the veffels of any other nation, you will have as little communication with them as poffible; fhould they be of fuperior force, and defire to fee your papers, you will fhew them. You will be on your guard againft furprize. Should they be either Ruffian, English, Spanifh, or any other-civilized nation, and be authorized to examine your papers, you will permit them, and treat them with civility and friendship; but at the fame time you muft be on your guard. Should they attempt to feize you, or even carry you out of your way, you will prevent it by every means in your power, and repel force by force; you will on your arrival proteft publickly, before a proper officer, againft fuch illegal procedure, and afcertain, as near as you can, the value of your cargo and veffel, and fend fuch proteft, with a full account of the tranfadtion, to us at China. Should you, in fuch conflidt, have the Superiority, you will then take poffeffion of the veffel that attacked you, as alfo her cargo, and bring both, with the officers and crew, to China, that they may be condemned, and their crews puniShed as pirates. N° VI. EXTRACT of a LETTER from Mr. MEARES to Mr. R. FUNTER, Second Officer of the FELICE, commanding the AMERICA.; dated Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound, loth Sept, 1788. [In Mr. Meares's Memorial of the 30th April, 1790. To accompany Inclofure No III.] YOU are, on no account, to hoift any colours until fuch time as your employers-- give you orders for this purpofe, except on taking poffeffion of any new difcovered land; you will then do it, with the ufual formality, for the Crown of Great Britain. No VII. N° VII. THE INFORMATION OF WILLIAM GRAHAM. [In Mr. Meares's Memorial of the 30th April, 1790. No IV.] Mddkfex, I The Information of William Graham, of Grub Street, Mariner, taken to wit. j before me Sir Sampfon Wright, Knight, one of His Majefty's Juftices of the Peace for the faid County of Middlefex, this 5th ^- *~ 790. Day of Mai WHO, being on oatl he entered bimfelf on board th King George's Sound, on the Meares, a merchant trading in launched in faid harbour under! that -She was commanded by Rol •Mi been f ys, That on or about the month of September, 1788, sffel called the North-Weft America, then lying in th-Weft Coaft of America, belonging to Mr. John e parts: And further fays, That he faw faid veffel ffi colours, and navigated under the Britifh flag, and Funter, who is a Britifh fubjedt. : further fays, That faid fhip was trading on account of faid John Weft Coaft of America, between the latitudes of 6o° and 450 North, )er of which they had purchafed and got on board; and that being they failed from the Archipelago of St. Lazarus, where they had refaid, and returned to King George's Sound for a frefli fupply of provisions, at which time the natives were bringing great quantities of furs for fale.. And this Informant further fays, That when the faid veffel arrived in the Offing of faid King George's Sound, a number of boats came out of faid Sound, and feized faid veffel, and conducted her into faid Sound; that one of faid boats" had a gun in her bow, and all the people on board the boats were Spaniards, and were armed with cutlaffes, piftols, and mufquets; that they took poffeffion of faid veffel in the name of the King of Spain, and made this Informant and the reft of the crew prifoners. That on entering faid Sound in manner aforefeid, he, this Informant, faw two Spanifh' men of war lying there," one carrying twenty-Six guns, called the Princeffa, and the other twenty-four guns, called the St. Carlos, with feveraf hundred men on board,, and. carrying the Spanifh flag. - That the Spaniards who had boarded faid veffel as aforefaid, brought her to an anchor clofe to faid frigates, and put the captain and crew of faid veffel on board faid frigates; that they then took out of faid veS&l all the furs and other merchandize, and put the fame APPENDIX. fame alfo on board faid frigates, and then hoifled the Spanish flag on board the veffel . they had fo captured. That the Spaniards entreated this Informant, and the reft of the crew of faid veffel, to enter themfelves as feamen on board faid frigates, whicfcTthey all refufed to do; that faid Spaniards then put the crew of faid veffel in irons, and fed them with horfe-bean's and water for the fpace of about three weeks, and beat and otherwife- ill treated feveral of them. And this Informant further fays; That he warinformed that the name of the officer who commanded faid frigates is Stephen Jofeph Martinez; and he alfo further fays, that if faid veffel-could have continued longer in the Archipelago of St. Lazarus, from whence She was obliged to return to King George's Sound through want of provifion, or if She had got a fupply of provifions at faid Sound, and gone back to the Archipelago (from', which flie was prevented by being captured as aforefaid) he is well affured that they fhould have collected a large quantity of furs and other merchandize, and that the voyage would have been very advantageous to the parties interested therein. That foon after the capture of faid veffel as aforefaid, She was fitted out, and fent on av trading voyage, by faid Stephen Jofeph Martinez, manned with Spaniards, bearing the Spanish flag, and having alfo on board one David Coolidge, mate of the Sloop Washington, belonging to the United States of America, which was then lying in faid Sound; and in the month of July following, faid veffel returned to faid Sound, having on board a I confiderable quantity of otter-Skins, which he, this Informant, faw taken out of faid - ' veffel, and put on board faid frigates. That on the 14th day of the month of June, 1789, the Princefs Royal merchant fhip of London, belonging to faid Mr. Meares and others, and commanded by Mr. William Hudfon, came into faid Sound with Britifh colours flying, and anchored near the faid frigates ; that faid veffel, Princefs Royal, lay in faid Sound a few days, and then failed (having firft.obtained the permiffion of faid Martinez fo to do) without any other interruption or moleftation whatever. That on or about the 3d of July, the Argonaut, a merchant fhip appeared in the Offing of faid King George's Sound, commanded by James Colnett; that faid Martinez equipped a launch with twenty men and upwards, and went with the fame himfelf, accompanied by Richard Howe, an American, and fupracargo of the fhips Columbia and Wafhington, belonging to the United States of America, and then lying in faid found) on board faid Argonaut; that faid Argonaut failed into, and anchored in, faid Sound with Britifh colours flying; that the next morning the Argonaut wanting to put to fea, was prevented by faid Martinez, who feized faid veffel with an armed force, took the captain and crew on board faid frigates, and put them in irons^; that faid Martinez ordered the Britifh colours on board the Argonaut to be hauled down, and the Spanifh colours to be hoifted, and fired a.gun. on board the Argonaut, and-took joffeflisoB- of the veffel in the name of His 5 Catholic APPENDIX. Catholic Majefty; that faid Martinez then ordered all the property on board faid Argo- naut to be removed on board faid frigates; that on the 13th day of Julv, the before. and that Robert Hudfon, Matter of faid veffel, came into faid Sound in his boat • that faid Martinez immediately feized faid boat, together with faid Hudfon and the 'boat's crew, on whom feveral Spanifh foldiers, who were on board the Argonaut and the Princeffa (one of faid frigates) fired with ball; that when faid Hudfon came alongfide faid frigate in his boat, the crew belonging to faid frigate beat faid Hudfon and his men, and threw faid Hudfon down the after hatchway of faid frigate, faying, " Get down,' you Englifh dog," and afterwards put him in the cabin under a guard of foldiers; tha't the Spaniards then launched two boats, armed with cutlaffes, &c. which went on board the Princefs Royal, and brought her into the Sound ; that they then fired a gun on board her, hauled down the English and hoifted Spanifh colours on board her, and put the crew, all the merchandize, and other property that was in her, on board one of faid frigates, and ' took poffeffion of faid Princefs Royal in the name of His Catholic Majefty; that at this time he, this Informant, faw two Spanifh batteries which were erected on fhore in faid Sound, the one mounted Sixteen guns, and the other feven guns, with the Spanifh flag flying thereon. And this Informant further fays, that he remained in confinement on board one of faid Spanifh frigates for the fpace of three weeks, and was then put on board the aforefaid American veffel the Columbia, in order to return to China ; that before faid veffel failed, he, this Informant, was feveral times on board the Argonaut, where he faw Captain Colnett and his officers confined in the cabin, and the crew in the fore-hatchway in irons. And this Informant further fays, that he failed from China on board the Felice, and arrived in faid King George's Sound in the month of May, 1788; that in about a fort- night or three weeks after their arrival he faw Mr. Meares deliver fome articles of mer- chandize to Maquilla, the fovereign prince of the faid Sound, which he then understood and believed were given as a confideration for lands which the faid Mr. Meares had required for an eftablifhment on fhore; that faid Mr. Meares did eredt a building and other conveniencies on faid land, and that the fame were taken poffeffion of by faid Martinez, who raifed a battery of two guns, and hoifted the Spanifh. flag thereon. And this Informant fays, that there were a number of men, natives of China, at faid Sound who had been taken thither by faid Mr. Meares; and that faid Martinez refufed to let'them return to China, and employed them in eredting batteries and other works, and, as he hath been informed, in digging in the mines. That while he was on his paffage in the Columbia to China, he faw a quantity of furs put on board faid veffel from faid Princeffa, and that the name Martinez was ftamped or marked thereon; that in Port Cofe, in their way to China, (and where the Wafhington and Columbia met) he alfo faw a number of furs put Wafhington. ~ 1 board the Columbia froi A P P E N D I : And this Informant hereby acknowledges, That he has rece all the wages due'to him from the time of his embarking or faid, to the time of his arrivalin China on board the Columbi cipal reafon of his coming to Europe was to give informatior tranfadtions. That when he was at Port Cofe, in the Columbia as aforefai commanded faid veffel, told this Informant that if he would navigating her to China, he would turn him afhore among quence of faid threats, he figned faid articles; and he, this that if he and others under the like circumftances had not § could not have carried faid veffel to China: but he did not r fuch fervice. Sworn before me the day and year above written, SAMPSON WRIGHT. ived from faid Mr. Meares i board the Felice as afore- a; and fays, that the prin- i of the before-mentioned d, Captain Kendrick, who not Sign articles to affift in the Indians; and in confe- Informant, is of opinion, jiven fuch affiftance, they eceive any recompence for WILLIAM GRAHAM. N° VIII. T.HUDSON's RECEIPT FOR TWO HUNDRED AND THREE SEA-OTTER SKINS. [In Mr. Meares's Memorial of 30th April, 1790. No. V ] July 2d, 1789, in Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound. RECEIVED from Robert Funter, two hundred and three fea-otter fkins, numbered 1 to 215, in good order and well conditioned, of which numbers, twelve are wanting, viz. No. 96, 17c, 179, 180, 163, 197, 199, 202, 203, 204, 205, and 208, which I promife to deliver in the like good order and condition at Macao, Canton, or any other port where they may be ordered by the established Company of Merchants trading from the above ports to this coaft. Witnefs my hand this 2d day of July, 1789, T. HUDSON. 203 Skins, No. IX. N° IX. CERTIFICATE */NINETY.SIX SKINS being fl,ipped onboard the COLUMBIA. [In Mr. Meares's Memorial of 30th April, 1790. No. VI.] OF th e ninety-fix fkins, which I have permitted to be embarked on board th lumbia, to Captain Robert Funter, and Pilot Thoi Shall pay to the Captain of faid fr Barnet, on their account, they „_, John Kendrick, the correfponding freight for faid Skins, as alfo the fupport of the crew, and payment of faid individuals; becaufe that they might not lofe their labour and pain, I have given this permiffion, leaving to the faid captain and pilot their right, apart, to demand of Don John Cawalho, in whofe fervice they were, of the London Company of Free Trade, as this has fatisfied the expences incurred by/aid Cawalho in his veffels by means of the purchafe. On board this frigate under my command, in the Port of St. Lawrence of Nootka, 14th July, 1789. (Signed) STEPHEN JOS. MARTINEZ. This is original copy of an order, which they fay Don Stephen Jofeph Martinez, Captain of the Spanish frigate, gave. Canton, ad December, 1789. Witnefs, Henry Hopmak, Third Supercargo. Manuel Netgole, Firft Supercargo of the Philippine Company. N° X. DEPOSITION .//^OFFICERS WMEN./^to^r NORTH-WEST AMERICA. [In Mr. Meares's Memorial of 30th April, 1790. No. VII.] WE, the undermentioned Captain and Seamen of the North-Weft America,^ veffel of forty tons burthen, or thereabout, built in King George's Sound on the North Weft Coaft of America, by Captain John Meares, agent for the Society of Britifh Mc - APPENDIX. chants trading to thofe parts, and launched under the colours of Great Britain, make oath before the Chief Supercargo of the Honourable Eaft India Company refident at Canton: That in the month of September, in the year of our Lord 1788, the carpenters of the faid John Meares did, with the affiftance of divers natives of America, build,, launch, and equip a fchooner of forty tons, or thereabouts, in the found or port difcovered by the late Captain James Cook, and named by him King George's Sound, in honour of our moft gracious fovereign; that the faid John Meares did name the faid veffel'the North-Weft America, as the firft veffel ever built in that part of the world; that ihe was equipped at a great and heavy expence of ftores, tackle, and furniture,, particularly iron, the moft valuable commodity in thofe parts; that all thofe Stores,, iron, &c. were conveyed to the American coaft, with infinite labour, colt, charge, and expences, on the Ship Iphigenia, as appears by her books of outfit and equipment;, that the faid John; Meares did appoint Mr. Robert Funter mafter of the North-Weft America, deeming him a full and fufficient perfon to conduct her commerce and guidance,, and did alfo appoint Peter Henry, Robert Davidfon, and John Eaft- quarter-mafters of the laid fchooner, as well as Thomas Thiftlewood, William Graham, and John Clarke,, mariners, all fubjedts of the crown of Great Britain; and alfo affifting, a native of China, at carpenter, and Affee and Aehaw, mariners of the fame country, to. compofe her crew,. to trade along the North-Weft coaft of America, on account and for the benefit of the affociated merchants of Great Britain trading to. thofe parts;, and th3t we, the above- mentioned peqple, have been paid our full and juft wages agreeable to juftice, from the time of our firft failing from China until the time of our return, as the books of outfit will fhew, and agreeable to our receipts. That on the 9th of June, 1789,. being returned to King George's Sound from a trading expedition amongft the Charlotte's Ifles, unfufpedting enemies or other hoftile attacks, there did come from thence boats manned arid equipped for war,, commanded by Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez, commander of two fhips of war of His Catholic Majeft-y then in King George's Sound, and did tow or convey the faid North-Weft America, her crew, tackle, cargo, and furniture, into the faid Sound, and did anchor her clofe to-the Spanifh Ships of war, and then did take poffeffion of the fchooner, her tackle, cargo,, furniture, goods and chatties of the affociated. merchants, in the name of His Catholic Majefty, and as a good and lawful prize. That the faid fchooner North-Weft America did barter and trade with the natives of the North-Weft coaft of America, for two hundred and fifteen fea-otter fkins of good and prime quality; that the faid number of two hundred and fifteen fea-otter fkins were put on board of the Sloop Princefs Royal, of London,, belonging to the affociated. merchants, for their ufe and advantages. That APPENDIX. That the faid Robert Funter and his crew were removed prifoners on board the faid vexation, detriment, and lofs; and that the faid fchoon er id given up to the plunder of the fub- it of his lality sofSpai as ufed by t er to cover lifted on board the faid ; Spaniards,, by fprin kling ieir unjuft and cruel pro- SpaniSh Ships of war, to th. North-Weft America was taken jedts of His Catholic Majefty; North-Weft America; that eve holy-water, &c. on the above veffel* ceedings. That the quantity of trade and commerce on board the North-Weft America, when taken by the Spaniards, was great and confiderable; and that being in want of provifions. Ihe returned to King George's Sound, in the fole hopes of meeting with fome of the fcips of the affociated merchants,, to receive from them the fupplies- wanted ; that num. hers of Skins were left behind amongft the Charlotte's Ifles;. and w of our belief, that had there been fufficient provifions on board the fchooner, fo as to have.permitted her further ftay, that one thoufand fea-otter fkins would have been collected, in addition to the two hundred and fifteen above-mentionedu and we further make oath, That the detention in King George's Sound, by Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez,, was to the ruin of the voyage, and the irreparable lofs of the affociated met" chants. That the faid North Weft America was immediately equipped and manned by Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez, with Spanifh officers and feamen, with Mr. Dav.id Coolidge^ firft mate of the Sloop Wafhington, of the United States of America, a pilot;, that She failed from King G month of July fhe r or up* 'ards, to the Th£ t we do furth Rober t Funter to go were t o'be collected this ft tion,. the faid Funte the half of a Rober t Funter havin coaft c >£ America, w a trading voyage; that in the- of feventy-five fea-otter Skins>, s Sound under the Spanifh fia£ turned to the faid Sound, wkh a-cai eavy lofs of the affociated merchants.. r make oath, That Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez did offer to Mr. is pilot to the Schooner, to Shew the different harbours where Skins- and to trade along the coaft; and as an inducement to accept of Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez did offer unto the faid Mr. Robert [ furs or valuables collected during the Voyage; and the faid Mr- ; acquired a confiderable knowledge of the trade of the North-Weft a preffed by Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez to difcover the nature of merce,. and to- enter into their fervice. And we. do further, make thofe offers; of'Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez were rejedted with indignation, tjatible with our being in the fervice of the affociated merchants. That the faid Don Jofeph Stephen- Martinez did make ufe of all manne r unlawful endeavours of punifhments and imprisonments, &c. &c. &c.- to-in- faid Robert Funter to.make fome instrument of writing, whereby the right and; lid fchooner North-Weft America, fhould be conveyed to the above Don Jofeph all thofe efforts and threats were fuftained without giving Such andc duce off Stephen. Mai N I X. an inftrument in writing: And do further make oath, That of the two hundred and fifteen fea-otter Skins collected on board the North-Weft America, twelve were either loft or ftolen on board the Spanifh fhip Princeffa, which reduced the above number of two hundred and fifteen to two hundred and three fkins, which were put on board the. Princefs Royal. That on or about the 14th of Juiy, the Princefs Royal of London, being in want of wood and water, and other wife much diftreffed, did fail into King George's Sound, and -did anchor near;to the-Ships commanded by the faid Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez; and that Mr. William Hudfon, mafter of the above veffel, finding the fchooner North Weft America, belonging to the affociated merchants, with cargo and.tackle, &c. feized by -the Spaniards, did receive on board the faid Sloop Princefs Royal, with the leave and licence of Don Jofeph-Stephen Martinez,- the number of two-hundre'd and three prime fea-otter fkins, on account of the affociated merchants; the faid Don -Jofeph Stephen Martinez having determined to capture the hull and tackle of the North Weft America, but liberate the cargo of the above number of two hundred and three fea-otter Skins. That the above Sloop Princefs Royal, William Hudfon, mafter, did put to fea out of Nootka Sound, having on board the above cargo of the affociated merchants, and after having Signed a receipt for-the above Skins, which receipt is attached to this .affidavit. And we do further make oath, that the-receipt attached to this affidavit, is the true .and juft receipt received from William Hudfon, mafter of the Princefs Royal. And we do make oath, that the fhip Argonaut, commanded by Lieutenant James Colnett, of'his Majefty'snavy, and belonging to the affociated merchants, did arrive •off King George's Sound, on orabout the 3d of July 1783; and that Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez perceiving the faid veffel in the offing, did man and equip a launch with feventy men and upwards, and went himfelf, accompanied by Mr. Richard Howe, an American, and fupercargo of the fhips Columba and Wafliington, belonging to the United States of America, and then in King George's Sound, and went on board the faid fhip Argonaut, where he was received with every friendfhip and civility; that the Argonaut being come off a long voyage, and otherwife much diftreffed, was enticed and decoyed into the faid . Sound by the affurances, and refting on the faith of Don Jofeph'Stephen Martinez, who .promifed-him every affiflance and friendship; and that the Ship Argonaut having in •confequence of this, entered King George's Sound, was boarded by armed boats equipped •from the Spanifh Ships, and feized and made a prize of, her officers, crew, and cargo, in the name of his Catholic Majefty, by Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez; and that the officers and crew were immediately removed on board the Spanifh fhips, and the Britifh fhip Argonaut was given up by Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez to plunder, not only the goods, &c. of the affociated merchants, but the private moveables and valuables of ' the officers and crew. That That Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez, with priefts and all due formalities, hoifted the- flag of Spain on the Brit fh fhip Argonaut, and did threaten Captain James Colnett, that if he did not Comply with all orders, injunctions, and other demands, that they would immediately hang, the faid Captain James Colnett at the yard arm, which pretled fo forcibly on the mind of the faid Colnett, that it deprived him of his fenfes; that he made repeated attempts to deftroy himfelf, and did once jump out of the cabin window into the fea, and was with difficulty faved. That the faid Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez, being in poffeffion of the Ship Argonaut,- did take out of her the greateft part of her copper trade, arms, great guns, ammunition, provifions, tar, pitch, canvas, and other naval ftores, with all the charts, inftruments, &c. of the officers.. We do further make oath, that the journal of the Ship Argonaut was true and faithfully delivered by Mr. Robert Duffin, .firft officer of the Said-Ship, to Mr. Robert Funter,. mafter of the N. W. America, as well as the letters Signed Robert Duffin, and addreffed' to John Meares,. agent for the affociated Britifh merchants trading to the North Weft. coaft of America, which journals or fetters are attached to this affidavit. And we do make oath, that on the 13th of July the Sloop Princefs Royal of London-' was. out at fea,. in the offing of King George's Sound, and that Mr. Robert Hudfon, mafter of the Skid Sloop, did take his boat and row into the faid Sound, and that himfelf, boat ;.nd crew, were feized by Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez, who made prifoners of - them ; and did by force and threats of hanging him at the yard arm, get the fa-id William Hudfon to write a letter on board the Princefs Royal, then lying off at fea, to- deliver up without conteftthe above Sloop; and that Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez did* order his Second Lieutenant, named Montefare, to take armed boats, equipped for war,- and go on board the Princefs Royal, and deliver the faid written letter to the com-■ manding officer on board ; and that thofe boats did accordingly go to the Princefs Royal,;., and did feize her, and with force confined the crew below the d. ck,. and did carry her into King George's Sound,, when Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez did order the Sprnifh colours to be hoifted on the Princefs Royal, and captured.her officers,, crew, cargo, .tackle,, and furniture, in the name of his Catholic Majefty. That to the beft of our knowledge and belief, the faid Princefs Roval. had on board two hundred and feventy prime fea otter fkins belonging.to the affociated merchants,, as well as two hundred and three prime fea otter fkins received from Mr. Rofeerr.Funter,, mafter of the N. W. America, making in all four hundred and feventy three prime fea- otter fkins all which were feized by the faid Jofeph Stephen Martinez,, in the name of. ^That the faid Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez did take poffeffion, with all due form; fec &c 0f the Princefs Royal of London. And we do further make oath, that Don Jofeph Stephen Martfosz.did give us, the above-mentioned Mr. Robert Funter andjea- A P P E N D I X. men, leave and licence to return to China in the American Ship Columbia; and that we did embark on board the fame Ship, and did return to China on the ;n 1 of November, 1789; and that previous to our leaving King George's Sound, and the North-Weft coaft of America, we did fee fail out of the faid port, the Britifh Ship Argonaut under the Spanish flag, a prize to Don Jofeph Stephen'Martinez, having on board Captain James Colnett, Mr. Robert Duffin, and the .greater part of her crew, with a guard of fifty Spanifh feamen, bound to the Spanifh port of St. Bias, in the latitude of 210 or thereabouts, agreeable to the orders of Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez; and that Jofeph Tobar, firft Lieutenant of the Spanifh Ship Princeffa, was in command of the.Argonaut,on her leaving King George's Sound ; and that the Columbia, and the American Sloop Washington did depart from King George's Sound together, unmolested in any meafure by the Spaniards, but on the contrary in full friendfhip and alliance, leaving in that Sound Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez, with his two Ships, and the Sloop Princefs Royal and the N. W America as prizes. That the Columbia and Washington did fteer to a htrbour to the Southward of King George's Sound, where they fepaiated, the Columbia returning to China, and the Washington remaining on the coaft. That we do further make oath, that Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez did order a certain number of fea-otter Skins (the number of which we cannot afcertain) to be put on board ■the American foip Columbia, previous to her and the Wafhington's leaving King George's Sound, and that the fame Ship Columbia did go to fea with thofe fkins on board; and on ■the arrival of the two American fhips at the port above-mentioned to the Southward, Mr. John Kendrick, mafter.of the fhip Columbia, did leave the faid Ship, and go on board the floop. Wafhington, raking the above-mentioned Spanifh Skins with him; and Mr. Robert Grey, mafter of the Sloop Washington, did go on board the fhip Columbia, and took charge of the faid Ship, quitted the coaft of America, and returned to China as above-mentioned, leaving the Sloop Washington in the above-mentioned harbour to the -Southward. And we do further make oath, that the provifions agreeable to the receipt attached to this affidavit, were put on board the Ship Columbia, by order of Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez, in order, as he faid, to vidtual us, the captain and crew of the N. W. America; but that, inftead of being appropriated to this ufe, part-thereof were put on board the Sloop Washington, then commanded by Mr. Kendrick, in order that She might con- - tinue out a longer trading voyage on the coaft of America. That the faid Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez did order to be fhipped on board the fhip Columbia, commanded by the faid Mr. Grey, the number of ninety-fix fea otter fkins for the purpofe of fulfilling the contents of a Spanifh paper attached to this affidavit, duly - authenticated by the chief of the Spanifh Eaft India Company at Canton. And we do further make oath, that the Ship Columbia, on quitting the coaft of America, was fo weakly manned, that we do verily believe that She would not have been able JOHN KENDRICK's Receipt for Provifions, &c, on board the Ship COLUMBIA. [In Mr. Meares Memorial of the 30th April, 1790. To accompany Inclofure, No. 7.] W ECEIVED from JLV der-mentioned article; 5 Cafks of fait pi 20 Pickles of rice I Small cafks of The above is a true copy of the original, figned as above, &c. ^ ^^ ^^ A P P E N E> I X. N°, XII. EXTRACT of the JOURNAL of the IPHIGENIA-. . [In Mr. Mean's Memorial of 30th April, 179a. No. 8.] R EM ARKS, istc. »'Boao the IPHIGENIA NUBIAN A. April 20th, 1789.. AT one P. M. a breeze fprung up from the N. W; flood in for the Sound. At feven P. M. the tide and wind failing, dropped the ftream anchor in fifty fathoms water, one mile from the Shore, and two miles from Friendly Cove. At 10 A.M.. weighed with a Southerly wind : Shortly afterwards came along-fide Captain Kendrick andi. officers;, they had wintered in Friendly Cove, and hadonly removed a few days with their Ship up to Moweena,. about eight miles, higher up the Sound. At eleven A. M. dropped anchor in the Cove, and moored with the pieces of junk; employed unbending Sails and getting the top-gallant mafts and yards down on deck 1—This log at midnight. 21/?.—Light winds and variable;, the limbers being all choaked with the fand- ballaft> fo that the water could not find its way into the pump well, fet all hands to work, in the morning to clear the hold : departed this life Acchon Aching, a feaman ;. he was. delirious from the time of his fall from the crofs trees, till he- died:. interred the corpfe- . on Shore. 22^.—The wind from the- N. W. and S. W. with fair weather; fent fome fails om Shore, and eredied a tent to put our empty calks in;, employed in. the hold, the cooper- overhauling the provifions and putting frefh.pickle in the cafks. . 2,3d.—Firft. part light winds and variable; employed heaving out ballaft; in the morning moved the tank to get to the limbers. At 10 A. M. arrived the Sloop WaShing-- ton from the Southward;. I. found that they had been out Six weeks, and had procured- about 300 Sea otter Skins. 241$.—Strong gales and hazy weather, with raiii;. employed- moving the great guns in the hold, which we found a very laborious piece of work; every rope we had in the Ship gave way, fo that we-were obliged to borrow a fall from the American Sloop. Having intelligence that a fail was in the offing, difpatched the long-boat to her affiftance; found her to be our. confort the N. W. America; at noon She anchored in the Cove.. Sailed out of the Cove the Sloop Washington foe Moweena. 0.1th.—Frefli- gales and cloudy weather, with the wind from the S. W. Having- intelligence that the American Sloop was bound to the Northward as foon as they could get trade wrought up, I gave orders for the fchooner not to unbend her fails, but to be hauled on Shore immediately, to Stop her leaks. At Six P. M.. having Stopped her leaks. r we had neither pitch or tar on board) ns and other as I had got, as well as we could, by nailing lead and fcrubbed her bottom, at ten hauled her off the- M ^_^_ 26th.—In the morning hauled the fchooner along-fide, and Struck her ftores in; font likewife on board her the following articles, viz. all the c one puncheon of bread, one caSk of yams, one of pork, two of my beft men, and fecond officer, who was well acquainted with the part of the coaft I intended to fend her; 1 fent on board her as trade, fifty bars of iron, thirty cut up, two hundred choppers, three dozen of adzes, one dozen of wood axes, and a quantity of large blue beads. zSth.—Moderate and clear weather, with the wind from N. E. At day-light towed the fchooner out of the Cove, the long-boat attending her out to fea about two leagues. May 6th.—Moderate and fair weather; having intelligence from the natives, that a veffel was in the offing, in the morning I ordered the long-boat to go off with the chief officers, (being unwell myfelf); about ten I was acquainted by my people, that the veffel appeared to be a Ship, and not like the Felice; at eleven She dropped anchor, and Saluted me with nine guns, which I returned, my boat came on board, and acquainted me She was a SpaniSh Ship of war, commanded by Commodore Don Stephen Jofeph Martinez, on difcovery; that there were two others, a Ship and a fnow, that had parted company about fourteen days ago: the Commodore fent his compliments to me-, and requested my company on board the Princeffa (for that was the name of the Ship) to dinner; I went on board, and carried him a prefent of a long feathered cloak and cap; he told me, on my going on board, he came from OonalaShka,—-that he had been in Prince William's Sound and Cook's River,—-and Shewed me a copy of a letter I wrote in anfwer to one I received from Mr. Ifmyloff, on the 25th day of June, 1788. At the time I wrote this letter I was in Cook's River; he was at anchor then off Montagu Ifland; how we came to pafs one another, he failing from the Sound to Cook's River, and I failing from Cook's River to the Sound, I am at a Ipfs to know. He fell in with the Wafhington to the Northward, and fuppHed her with feveral things fhe was in want of. I acquainted him with my dif treffed fituation,—that the veffel had like to have foundered before we made the port, for want of pitch and tar to flop her leaks,—that I expedted my confort from China every day if foe did not arrive, I muft beg his affiftance, which he promifed me. Captain Ke dricfk arriving from Moweena, after dinner we went on Shore, accompanied by Don Tefc )h and three padries that were to make all the Indians Christians: I thought they had taken a hard talk'in band. 7/^FQggy weather j people em pi 8/j—Moderate breezes and fair we: impatience for the arrival of the Feli< ^—Moderate weather, In the m< our Are wood; v md his officers to MoweeM,- to din returned. ictb APPENDIX. lo//"'.—Pleafant land and fea breezes. This day Captain Kendrick and officers, the Spanifh Commodore, and the padries dined on board the Iphigenia; having one Sandwich Ifland hog left, and a few yams, I fent the hog on board the Spanifh Ship, and had it dreffed after their own fafhion; they added two or three other difhes, fo that we made it out pretty well. nth.—Cloudy weather and heavy rain. In the morning the Spanish Commodore went up to Moweena, taking his cot and bedding along with him. He promifed to let me have the articles! was. in want of at his return. In the evening we had intelligence by the natives of a veffel being in the offing. i<xtb.—Mo3erate and cloudy weather. In the morning, having got fome pitch and tar from the Princeffa, hauled the long boat'afhore, and fet the carpenter and caulker to work to caulk her bottom. At three P. M. having finished the long boat,.I intended to fend him down to Wiccananifh. At five P. M. Mr. Adamfon acquainted me that Captain Meares was in the offing, and that the natives had fold him fome fifh; (having been unwell for fome time paft, and now confined to my bed,) I ordered him to go off with the long boat to his affiftance. At fix ditto I was acquainted She dropped anchor one mile to the Northward of the port and hoifted Spanish colours. 13th.—Moderate and cloudy weather. At ten A. M. came in and dropped anchor in the cove, the Spanifh fnow St. Carlos, commanded by Captain Arrow. He fent his compliments to me, and requefted my company to dinner; being unwell I declined his invitation. In the afternoon he paid me a vifit; and in the evening the Commodore came down from Moweena, accompanied by Captain Kendrick, and fome of his officers. \\lh.—At nine in the morning the Spanifh commodore fent for me and Mr. Viana on board the Princeffa. As foon as I was on board he took out a paper, and told me, that was the King of Spain's orders to take all the veffels he met with on the coaft of America j that I was now his prifoner. I urged the diftrefs we were in before we reached the harbour; the veffel without cables; no pitch nor tar on board to Stop her leaks; no bread on board, nor any thing to live on but fait pork ; that if I had Steered for any port in South America, the Spaniards would not have feized my veffel, but fupplied me with the neceffaries I was in want of, agreeable to the laws of nations; to take me a prifoner in-a foreign port that the King of Spain had never laid claim-to, was a piece of injustice that - no nation had ever attempted before : but that, fooner than be detained as a prifoner, (although the veffel had like to have foundered before we got'into the harbour,) if he would I give me permiffion, I would inftantly leave the port. This was denied. Forty or fifty men, with fome officers, went on board, hoifted the Spanifh colours, and took poffeffion of the Iphigenia. The keys of my cheft were demanded ; my charts, journals, papers, and in fhort, every thing that was in the veffel, they took poffeffion of. I was not fo' much as allowed to" go on boaVd. I enquired the caufe of his not taking the Wafhington Sloop, as he had orders from the King of Spain to take every veffel he met with on '. . this N I X, this coaft. He gave me no fatisfadtory anfwer; but told me my papers were bad ; that they mentioned I was to take all Englifh, Ruffian and Spanifh veffels that were of inferior force to the Iphigenia, and fend or carry their crews to Macao, thereto be tried for their lives as pirates. I told him they had not interpreted the papers right;- that though I did not underftand Portuguefe, I had feen a copy of them in Englifh at Macao, which meit- ■tioned, if I was attacked by any of thofe three nations, to defend myfelf, and if I had the fuperiority, to fend the captain and crew to Macao to anfwer for the infult they offered. The padries and the clerk read the papers over, and faid they had interpreted the papers right. . In the evening of the 15th, Captain Kendrick came down from Moweena; haying been informed Captain Kendrick was privy to my being taken prifoner, and that it was fettled when the Spanifh Commodore was laft at Moweena, when he came on board the Iphio-e-' nia I refufed to fee him. This being reported to the Spanifh Commodore, I was ordered, at ten o'clock at night (although I was very unwell) to turn out, and carry my bed on board the Spanifh fnow, it both raining and blowing at the time. Here I remained for fome time without a foul to fpeak to. My fervant, who was a Manilla man, and (poke the language very well, was hot permitted to come near me, for fear of his difcovering fome of their proceedings that was carrying on. In fhort, they ftole a number of things,, 'and afterwards laid the blame on my fervant. My people were divided between the two veffels, and every method made ufe of to entice them to enter. The fails were bent, and fome new running rigging wove. A captain was appointed, and officers, to carry me to St. Bias. My officers were to be detained,, and one half of my people on board the- two Spanifh fhips, and I was requefted to choofe the quieteft of my men to go along with me. A lift of them I was defired to give to the commodore, as we were to fail in a few days. This I would not comply with, but told him, he might fend home if he thought proper; that the Iphigenia was not fit to go to fea till fhe was caulked, and her leaks flopped. This they immediately fet about. After taking every thing out of her, copper, iron, trade of every-kind, and all my Sandwich Ifland pork, they filled the after- hold with fand ballaft, that we had been at fo much pains to get out. The fchooner North-Weft America, and the Felice, being daily expedted in, none of us were permitted to fpeak to the natives, although I found an opportunity to acquaint Maquilla, and the other chiefs, as did Mr. Ingraham, chief officer of the Columbia.' We requefted them to have boats ready to go off to Captain Meares and Captain Funter, and acquaint them not to come in to Nootka: that I was cap chetled, that is, taken; they told, us they underftood. They wanted to know if I'Was now a colt, that is, a Slave,— that if I would go with them, they would fend boats to watch for .an-opportunity to carry me off. They inftantly Shifted their village about four miles to the Northward, fo that I am'in great hopes.both Captains Meares and Funter will have intelligence of my being captured. One of my people on board the Iphigenia, the fervant, was bargaining A P P E N D IX. with the natives for fome fifh they had in their boat; the Spaniards, not understanding what was faid, ordered him on board the Commodore's Ship, and put him into the flocks, where he was ■ftridtly examined, and threatened feverely, if he did not tell whether he had mentioned to the natives for them to go and tell Captains Meares and Funter •lot to come into Nootka. When they found he had not mentioned any thing about the •other .veflels, they wanted to know if the natives had not told him they had feen a veffel in the-offing:: he told them they had not. He was after this fet at liberty, but ordered mever to converfe with the Indians, nor fpeak to them in future. I afterwards had a conference with Captain Kendrick, he denied being acceffary to my being taken; that ihe Spanish Commodore had mentioned to him he would tajce Captain Meares prifoner as >foon as he arrived in the harbour; that he had faid every thing, and had made ufe of all his intereft to prevent my being, taken prifoner : how far this is true, I Shall leave it for him to difcover. On the 2zd the irons arrived from Moweena, which were made by Captain Kendrick's .armourer. We were now to proceed inftantly to St. Bias, and I was once more requefted to choofe one half of my men, as the other half was to remain with my officers. Finding ,not one of them would enter, or defert me, I declined giving the preference to any. Before we failed, I requefted my own private papers might be delivered up, likewife a copy ,of my Ship papers, which was promifed me. The interpreter, when he came to that part which mentions my defending myfelf in cafe I was attacked, and, if I had the fuperiority, to carry the aggreffors to Macoa to be tried for the infult, mentioned to the Com modore, in my prefence, that he thought the papers very good. I told him if that was the only caufe he had to alledge againft me, it would not be difficult for me to eaft him in any court'of juftice in Europe. He had now got every thing out of her that he took a liking to; and what things I had belonging to myfelf, he robbed me of in as gentle a manner as he poflibly could, by letting me know he muft have my gold watch, my fec- tant, my Stove, and all my charts; likewife all my long feathers, cloaks and caps, that Tianna and his relations prefented me.with; even my Shoes and boots, and very bed cloaths went; as a reafon for fo doing, he told me fome of thofe things could be got at Mexico. He now propofed to return the veffel, and fupply me with provifions to carry me to the Sandwich Iflands,- if J would fign a paper that was already -prepared and pre-, fented me. This I"refufed to comply with till I had wjtneffes, and knew the contents of the paper: Mr. How, fupercargo of the Columbia, was requefted to write a letter to Captain Kendrick and Mr. Ingraham, to come down from Moweena, to he wjtneffes to the papers I was to Sign. On the 24th they arrived; the papers were interpreted to me, which mentioned he arrived on fuch a day, and found me in the Bay of St. Lawrence, Nootka; that I was in diftrefs, and in want of everything; that he had not Slopped my navigation but fup- plkd me with .every neeeflary I was in want of to carry me to the Sandwich Iflands. This APPENDIX. This paper I refufed figning, for two reafons; one was, he had not only flopped me m my navigation, but had taken poffeffion of the Ship, and every thing that belonged to her- another was, the Spaniards could lay no claim to a port they had never before feen, nor- .bad any of the King of Spain's veffels ever entered. The Commodore faid, in the year 1775 he was fecond officer* on board a king's frigate that was.on difcovery, that faw the port, and named it the Bay of St. Lawrence, I told him, having the chart of that voyage by me, I begged leave to differ in opinion from him. If I did not chufe to fign the papers, he told me he would keep the veffel and fend her along the coaft as a privatees to trade with the natives. The papers were inftantly laid afide, and Captain Kendrick went up to Moweena: The fame evening he told me his orders were to take Captain Kendrick if he Should fall in with him any where in thofe feas; and mentioned it asa. great fecret that he would take both him and the Sloop. Washington as foon as-She arrived in port. The 24th and 25th, a heavy gale blew from the South Weft, -the Spanifh veffels had each*four anchors a-head; the Commodore requefted I would-go on board the Iphigenia^ with my officers and people, and Secure her; having nothing on board to fecure her with,. I declined having any thing to do with her; he was therefore under the neceffity offending two eight-inch hawfers, and making her faft to Hog Ifland. As Iwas not permitted to goon fhore, I did not know much of what was carrying forward there; they were7 bufy in eredting forts on Hog Ifland, and, by what I learned, they were cutting down- large trees to build houfes. The Commodore acquainted me, that laft yeas, when he was at OonalaShka, Mr. Ifmyloff told him he expedled three veffels from Kamtfchatka with a number of men; that on their arrival at OonalaShka, he was to take the command,, and condud them to Nootka Sound, where they were to form a. fettlement; that he ex- pedted to arrive at Nootka by the middle of July, or ift of Auguft, 1789;. that two- Ruffian frigates were to fail from Peterfburgh by the way of Cape Horn„ and. join them- in Nootka Sound with ftores and other, neceffaries that they might want.. On his.arrival at St. Bias laft year he fent an exprefsto the Viceroy, who ordered him to.fail immediately for Nootka, and eredt forts to keep- the Ruffians out. He likewife acquainted rne that in. the year 1786, two Englifh veffels were eaft away,, one was drove afhore at be/anchors on the ifland Maidenoi Oftroff;. that all the hands perifhed. except three-men ned to be on fhore;. they were fent over land to Peterfburgh. The officers of ... . effel being on fhore, they put to fea, and as there was no perfon on board that. djji Id navigate the veffel,, fhe was.never afterwards feen or heard of. As they now had? lot poffeffion of my charts and journals, the Spanish Commodore Intended, to fend theft Carlos Captain Arrow, to the Northward as foon as they could get her bottom clean- ' ' d her fides caulked. Captain Kendrick was likewife ready for fea, and he was go- thi ed k This was Maurelk's fhip. the Commode* p N I ing to pufh to trie Northward.. My people were after me every hour of the day, re- quefting that I would fign the papers, that they might get on board their own veffel. Although the Commodore had promifed to fupply me with what he thought would be neceffary to carry me to the Sandwich Iflands, and made this promife before Mr. How and Mr. Ingraham, ftill there was no dependance to be put on his word; however, on the 26th this paper waS once more produced, and I was under the neceffity of figning it. At eleven o'clock on the 26th, I carried my people on board, and took poffeffion of the Iphigenia; I was not above half an hour on board when a meffage came that I was wanted on board the Princeffa. When I went on board, I was told by Don Jofeph Ste-. phen Martinez (in-the prefence of Mr. Ingraham) that, although he had given me back the Iphigenia, he would not permit me to fail till the arrival of the fchooner North-Weft America, and that I muft fell her to him for the price that Captain Kendrick and his •officers Should fet on her. I told him the fchooner did not belong to me; that I had ,no power to fell her; and that he might adt as he thought proper on the occafion. In the ..afternoon the Spaniards left the fhip, each carrying off what he could lay his hands on. May 2-jth—Cloudy weather, with the wind from the Weft; loofed the fails to dry; employed heaving out the fand ballaft. In thcevening the Commodore acquainted me •he had intelligence from the natives that the fchooner was in a port a little way to the Northward. He got out fome ink and paper, and requefted I woulc :Captain Funter to come into Nootka Sound. This I would not comply refufed to fend my ftores, or any of his own on board me. ;-28/£.—Frefh breezes and fair weather; employed fitting the rigging : 29th.—I made out a lift of what articles I was in want of"; my chief demand was a ca. "hie of eleven inch, bread, fome pitch and tar, together with forty fathoms of four-inch rope for top-fail fheets, and the rope that was woven when fhe veffel was in their poffeffion. The Commodore fent me word he would let me have what things he thought .mecefTary, and what he could beft fpare, fo that I received on board the following articles, viz. one cafk of beef for three cafks of Sandwich Ifland pork that was kept; four bags, weighing each 2olb. one box of bread, weighing about 1501b. two bags of rice, four of -beans ; eight bags of flour ; one cheft of pitch; one bladder of tar; and one eighteen- gallon keg of Spanifh Brandy ; rope of three inch, eighteen fathoms; one coil of one and an half inch, containing fifty fathoms ; and thirty fathoms of two'inch." The "reft of the cordage and other things were wove and fent on board when I was a prifoner. 30th.—Employed rigging the-top-gallant mafts. In the afternoon an account of the, articles we had.received was brought on board, charging five times the quantity, and five times the fum-they coft,"; in Short, I was going to return moft of them, but I found ifd returned any "I muft return the whole. As I had made no charge againft him of my pork, iron, copper, watch, ftove, fedtant, cloaks, caps, and charts which he had deprived me of; on this account I granted him the bills he requefted. There was another thing letter to fo that he 1 places. APPENDIX. thing I was obliged to comply with; viz. by great promises he got my fervant, who was a Manilla man, to enter on board the Princeffa;-I was therefore under the neceflity of difchargmg him, and paying his wages up .to the dav he was difmiffed. 31ft—As I was determined to be detained no longer, I went on board in the morning of the 31ft, and acquainted Don Stephen Jofeph Martinez that the moment the wind fa, voured me, I would fail for the Sandwich Iflands. I found there were objeaions made: the Commodore acquainted me he had information that I intended to go to the Northward.^ As I had taken great care not to give the leaft hint to any perfon of my future intentions, I mentioned, that whoever he was that told him fo, could not be fo well acquainted with the ftate of my veffel as he was himfelf; that by his own calculation I had not above fix weeks provifions; that he had only left me ten or twelve bars of iron, which would only purchafe me as many fea-otter fkins, and if I was even to difpofe of them, the confequence would be but fmall; we fhould only be ftarved before we got to Macao, as he had left us nothing elfe to purchafe our hogs with at the Sandwich Iflands; befideshhe had not left a chart to carry me to China, let alone along the coafts of America. My people, I told him, were on high wages, and that it was neceffary for me to make the beft of my way to Macao, having no other profpect but to leffen the expences of the voyage as much as lay in my power. June ift.—I gave orders to unmoor, and requested he would let me have my great guns, fmall arms, and ammunition ; which he complied with. Captain Kendrick and officers having come down from Moweena, they acquainted me the Columbia would fail the day following to the Northward. Another paper was produced, which the Commodore requefted I would Sign, and be witneffed by Captain Kendrick and Mr. Ingraham ; the contents of this paper, they told me, was, if my papers were bad, the veffel was to be delivered" up at Macao. It was eafy to fee through thofe artifices. I figned the paper, and requefted a copy, but this was not complied with. A dinner being provided on board.the Princeffa, every method was made ufe of by Captain Kendrick and others to i out if I intended to touch to the Northward. I gave them the fame anfwers as be- l I had no intention to throw away the lives of my people. On this ly health, wifhing me a good voyage to Macao, and accompanied it s. As foon as dinner was over I went on board, accompanied by Captain the Spanifh Commodore. A light breeze fpringing up from- ers to get under way. The Commodore told me I muft leave „ if he fhould arrive in Nootka Sound, to fell the fchooner. I u neither Captain Funter nor myfelf had power or authority to fell the fZolr; that I would write a letter, and leave it with him, to be delivered in cafe of his returning to Nootka Sound. I fhall here infert a copy of the letter I left. m fore, telling ther day they drank 1: with thirteen gur Kendrick and officers, the Northward, I ga* a letter for Car H n A P P E N D I X. To Capt. Robert Funter, Commander of the Schooner North-West America. "SIR, "ON the 6th of May, a Spanifh Ship of war arrived in Friendly se Cove, Nootka Sound, commanded by Commodore Don Stephen Jofeph Martinez; " on the 13th the fnow St. Carlos arrived; on the morning of the 14th the Iphigenia " was feized, and we were made prifoners, it being alleged our papers were not good. " This being cleared up, I am now permitted to fail to Macao, being fupplied with " ftores and provifions to carry me to the Sandwich Iflands. As there is no account of " Captain Meares, I am afraid fome accident has happened to him between the Sandwich " Iflands and China; if that is the cafe, you will be but poorly off for provifions. My " owh fituation prevents me from giving you any affiftance; I muft therefore leave you te to your own good condudt, being as much at a lofs how to adt as you can be. All that " I have to fay is, you will adt to the beft of your judgment for the benefit of your *' employers. " I am, &c. " Iphigenia, Friendly Cove, Nootka " Sound, ift June, 1789. " Wm. DOUGLAS." . The moment I had finished my letter I gave orders to flip the hawfer, and made fail out of the Cove, the fort on Little Hog Ifland faluting me with five guns, which I begged to be excufed returning. At three P. M. the Spanifh Commodore and Captain Kendrick left me and went on fhore. As the wind was from the Northward, I flood to the Southward under all fail; at fun-fet Nootka Sound bore North half Weft, diftance feven or eight leagues. . June 2d.—Having got out of the hands of my enemies; I was now at liberty to judge for myfelf, knowing it would be a length of time before the Spaniards could have their fnow ready which they intended to fend to the Northward, and being of opinion they would not permit Captain Kendrick to fail before She was ready, the interval was therefore mine. I had no idea of running for Macao with only between fixty and feventy fea- otter Skins which I had on board. My people had been accuftomed to fhort allowance; I therefore gave orders, at midnight to put the Ship on the other tack, and Stand away to the Northward. I was in great hopes I Should fall in with Captain Funter; and I was fully refolved, if I did, to take the people and cargo out of her, and fet her on fire, if I found I could not carry her along with me. At noon we had hazy weather; Nootka So'und bore North Eaft half Eaft, diftance fourteen leagues. No. XIII. A P P E N D 1 x. N° XIII. COPIES of LETTERS from Mr. DUFFIN /, Mr. MEARES. [In Mr. Meares's Memorial of 30th April, 1790. No. IX.] DEAR SIR> Nootka Sound, >* latf, ,,8,. I BEG to inform you, per favour of Mr. Barnett, wkh our fafe arrival in Nootka Sound, after a pleafant paffage of nine weeks and four days, during which time nothing material happened. We lived in the greateft harmony and good friendfhip during the time we have been together, and every thing promifed fair for a continuation of the fame; every officer on board feeming Strenuous for their employers' intereft. - We made the coaft of America July 3d, at Woody Point, and Stood along fhore under an eaSy fail during the night. In the morning feveral natives came off, with the reft Comekela (that was brought by you from Macao to Nootka); from him we learnt there were five veffels in Friendly Cove, but could not learn of what nation they-were; however he informed us they had captured the- North-Weft American fchooner, commanded by Mr. Funter. We immediately conjedtured that the veflels were fome belonging to Mr. Etches, and the American fhip and floop. We made all the fail we could, intending to get in that nightrif poffible. On our nearing the Sound we favyafljop^ coming out, which we were informed was the Princefs Royal, belonging to our concern. We then had not the leaft doubt but there were fome of Mr. Etches' veflels in the Cove. When we were about two miles from the entrance of the Sound, we faw a boat coming towards us; it was then between nine and ten o'clock, fo that we could not difcern of what country they were. They hailed us in Spanish, and afked if they might be.permk- ted to come on board. They were anfwered in the affirmative; on which they came alongfide, and the officer with feveral other gentlemen ftepped up. We found the former to be the Spanifh Commodore; thofe who'accompanied him were of his Ship. After having welcomed them on board, Captain Colnett afked them down into the great cabinj what their converfatidn was there I am unacquainted with; but Captain Colnett foon told me his intention was to go into Friendly Cove, and the SpaniSh launch took us in tow accordingly. About ten minutes after this, Mr. Barnett came on board, whom I diredtly introduced to Captain Colnett, who informed him tha* there was a SpaniSh frigate of twenty-fix guns, and a fnow of fixteen lying in the Cove, as alfo the American Ship and floop • that the former had eredted a fort on Hog Ifland, on which Sixteen gqns-'were mounted, and had taken poffeffion of the SoundhBrthe name of his moft Catholic Majefty H 2 Carolus APPENDIX. Carolus III. King of Spain; that they had captured the fchooner, and plundered the Iphigenia, but had permitted Captain Hudfon to proceed without any moleflation. As the Commodore heard this intelligence, he immediately gave Captain Colnett his word and honour that he would not offer to detain him, but give him every affiftance in his power, in doing which, he only complied with the King of Spain's orders. Under thefe circumftances, and depending on his honour, Captain Colnett entered the Cove, and brought up between the frigate and fnow; though I muft'add, that Mr. Barnett, with others of our well-wiShers, advifed us to anchor without fide the. Cove, that we might take a view of the furrounding objects in the morning. Every thing that night and the next morning feemed to wear a favourable afpedt,, no obftacle arifing that might flop our departure. In the afternoon Captain Colnett went on board the Commodore's fhip, and requefted his permiffion to go to fea immediately, which at firft was granted, but on fecond confi. deration, the Commodore defired to fee his papers. Captain Colnetfleft the Commodore, and came on board his own veffel; when, after having put on the Company's uniform, and his hanger, he took his papers on board the Commodore : he was then informed by that gentleman, that he could not fail that day; on which fome high words enfued between them, and Captain Colnett infifted on going out immediately, which he faid he would do unlefs the Commodore Sired a Shot at him ; if fo, he would then haul down his colours, and deliver himfelf up a prifoner: hardly had he uttered this, but he was put under an arreft, and his fword taken from him, the veffel feized, and the officers and crew taken out, and fent prifoners, fome on board the fhip, and the reft on board the fnow; but what is moft particular, he defired Captain Kendrick to load his guns with Shot, to take a veffel that had only two fwivels mounted; fo that it was impoffible to make any refiftance againft fuch fuperiority; indeed it would have been madnefs to have attempted it. The Commodore's paflion now began to abate a little, and he fent. for me from the St. Carlos, where I was imprifoned : when I came to him, he feemed to profefs- a very great friendfhip for me, and appeared to be exceedingly forry for what, he faid, his officers compelled him to do. He declared to me, that he had given Captain Colnett permiffion to depart, and would have affifted him all in his power, but that Captain Colnett infifted on erecting a fort oppofite his; faid he reprefented the King of Great Britain, and that he came to take poffeffion in his .Britannick Majefty's name. The Spaniard quoted the fame, and faid he was reprefentative of his moft Catholic Majefty the King of Spain: but I have every reafon to fufpedr there was a mifunderftanding between the two parties, for the linguist fpoke English very imperfedtly, j and in all likelihood interpreted as many words wrong as right. This is as particular and impartial an account of the above tranfadtion as it is in my power to relate ; but as this will be accompanied by Meffrs. Funter and Barnett, who are permitted to take their paffage in the American Ship, and who were eye-witneffes of "every tranfadtion, it will enable them to explain every particular concerning it more explicitly than I am able to do in writing. Since N I X. Since our being captured, Cap times he Starts, what death be number of Simp n Colnett has been in a high ftate of infanity ; fome- hers heaSks how long he has to live ? who is to be his executioner? be put to? with all fuch delirious expreffions, accompanied by a ^^^ :ions, which induces me, and every other perfon who fees him, to believe his brain is turned, owing to the great charge that was under his care; and I am forry to add, that he has not fortitude enough, in this critical and difagreeable fituation, to Support this unexpedted Stroke. He has delivered me his inftrudtionsand the South Sea Company's grant, and requests I will adt in his name. I have endeavoured to convince the Spaniards, had we known this place had been taken poffeffion of by the King of Spain, we would not, on any consideration, have come near it: I have likewife wished to per- fuadehim to perufe the South Sea Company's grant and our inftrudtions; which he refutes, and tells me it would avail nothing now to do it,, as his officers infift on his going on with what he acknowledges he toorafhly and haftily began, and without deliberating what might- hereafter be the confequence. He defired me toinclofe the grant and our inftrudtions in his prefence; he took and put a fmall'note with them, and afterwards fealed It with his own Signet: he then put it under my care, defiring that I would deliver it to the Viceroy of Mexico. The veffel is going to St. Bias, a fettlement they have in the latitude of 2i° 10' North, on the coaft of California, where we are going, to determine whether we are a prize to the King of Spain or not;. if we are not, as we have every reafon to expedt, She will be delivered upwith every thing in her, and be anfwerable for all damages re- , fince his making a prize of us; but this undoubtedly will be ceived or ftores d fettled between the Captain Colnett, main on board the Gibfon and Ludloil From what I cai St. Bias, and preps alfo built cabins b yfelf, Mr. Temp and Reid the carpenter, nfon on board the Commodon Sh fnow. i'the EngliShme re pert i Ship; and Meffrs. duri s. Whate ed to you it of a perS be fent in the Argonaut to in that veffel: they have r the feamen, where they are to be confined in irons alk out in the day ; the officers, I believe, are alfo to be :nt in poffeffion of my cabin, as are alfo the reft of us, ;reat civility, by obliging us in every liberty that can er deficiency may be left concerning our prefent tranf- its true light by Mr. Funter or Mr. Barnett; for I con- tied, uneafy, and in fhort, feel every anxiety that is I in fo difagreeable a fituation as I am. I am, Dear Sir, Your's moft obediently, (Signed) B. DUFFIN. p. & P. S. I am forry to inform you th; • copper, all our guns, Shot and powder, wi means to trade with, as I am informed he fei who alfo trades for him on Shares. E N D I X. the Spaniards have taken the chief part of our r, with the fpare canvafs, &c. The former he his furs to Macao by Captain Kendrick, To Captain John Meares Nootka Sound, July i-ifb, 1780. DEAR SIR, J y J ' ' y CAPTAIN COLNETT has been in fuch a ftate of infanity ever fince the veffel has been captured by the Spaniards, that we are obliged to confine him to his cabin; yefterday morning he jumped out of the cabin window, and it was with great difficulty his life was faved; his conftant cry is, that he is condemned to be hanged. I Sincerely hope for his fpeedy recovery, but am apprehenfive he never will recover his former fenfes again: I understand from the boy Ruffel that it is a family diforder, and that they all have fymptoms of madnefs, more or lefs. I have written the whole tranfadtion Concerning our being captured, &c. previously to this, as minutely as prefent circumftances will permit, for I am apprehenfive, if I am feen writing, they will take my book, paper, pens, ink, &c. from me, fo that whatever I have written is by Stealth; but Mr. Barnett has been fo obliging as to affift me as much as lay in his power to do it. Gib- fon was feen writing one day, and they immediately took the paper and' in-k^from him and told him prifoners had no bufinefs to write. We are to-morrow to fail for St. Bias, with all our officers and feamen both Englifh and Portuguefe, except thofe that have entered with the Spaniards. They have taken of our ftores to themfelves, all our pitch, -tar, canvas, twine, fome provifions of all kinds, guns, ammunition, the chief of our copper, and many other articles that we were not acquainted with. AlKthe officers being prifoners, fome on board one veffel, and fome on board the other, we have great expedtations that the veffel will be delivered up at St. Bias. The Commodore promifes me if fhe is, every thing that he has taken to himfelf fhall be replaced at that port; but there has been a number of things taken out of the veffel by theft that he knows nothing of; neverthelefs, if any, and the veffel is returned, they muft undoubtedly make it good: but you, Sir, and the reft of our employers muft be great fufferers, as it has fruftrated all .our expedtations-. had we not met with this misfortune, there were ftrong appearances of our procuring a great quantity of furs, as the Americans have no copper to purchafe with, fo that the natives referve all their prime fkins expedting a copper fhip. If our veffel is delivered up to us, our ftores, trade, &c. returned, you may reft affured ■I will do all that is in my power for the benefit of my employers, and the Captain remains in this ftate of infanity; if he recovers, he will undoubtedly do the fame. I can fay nothing more, but beg you will prefent my compliments to ail enquiring friends, and remain, Dear Sir, Your's moft obediently, (Signed) B. DUFFIN. To Cap 9 John Meares. APPENDIX. DEAR sir, Nootka Sound, July 14, 1789. , „ , , ] YESTERDAY at two P. M. a fail was feen in the offing, coming round Breaker's Point from the Southward, Handing into the Sound; as fhe neaS ed the Ihore we perceived her to be the floop Princefs Royal, Captain Hudfon: at feven foe came to an anchor about .two or three miles from the Cove, and Captain Hudfon him- ielt came mto the Cove in his boat, with four of his people; when inftantly as he made his appearance in the Cove, the Spanifh boat boarded him, and took him and his people on board the Commodore as prifoners. His motive for coming in, from what I could learn from himfelf, was to fee if Captain Colnett was there, in order to receive his orders how he was to proceed in future. Whether Captain Hudfon's conduct in this proceeding was* blameable or not, I leave to your fuperior judgment. We are now out of the Cove in the mouth of the Sound, and are positively to fail tomorrow morning for St. Bias. The floop is towed into the Cove within all the fhipping; and the Spaniards, from every appearance, have finally captured her. Captain Hudfon feems very much hurt at his misfortune, and candidly declares that it is entirely from his own Simplicity, and being too credulous of the Spaniard's" honour, that has brought him into this difagreeable dilemma. Captain Colnett is much better to-day,.and in general difcourfes very rationally: I have endeavoured to perfuade him to draw out every particular concerning our being captured, to fend to his employers,, which he refufes: his objedtion is, that he has involved himfelf and every one elfe in difficulties that he is not able to extricate himfelf from> and therefore declares to me, that he will have no more concern with the charge of the veffel, but leaves every thing entirely tome,.which Ihave, but moft reludtantly, complied with, knowing that I cannot acquit myfelf with fatisfadtion to myfelf, nor undoubtedly more fo to my employers. Neverthelefs, if the veffel is delivered up at St. Bias, as the Commodore gives me every reafon to hope that fhe will, I will endeavour, to the utmoft in my power, to do every thing that may be any ways beneficial to my employers. The Commodore wanted Captain Colnett to fell all his copper to him, and he would give him bills for fame, as he valued it; which Captain Colnett had complied with, but I objeared, as I thought if his orders tolerated him to capture the veffel, they would undoubtedly tolerate him to capture the cargo likewife. We are deficient in a great deal of copper, as I mentioned in my former; but Mr. Barnett will be able to inform you,-1 imagine, where it goes to. - Accompanying this, I fend, under the care of Mr. Barnett, a copy of my journal from ' Macao, wherein you will find the principal occurrences that have happened to us fince have nothing more to add; neither have I opportunity to do it, the :nt fhips; fo beg you will pre- r depar fel being continually crowded with people from different Ships; fo beg you 1 3 Mr. M'Intire, and every other gentleman in Macao; and remain, font my compliments t fo Captain John Meares. DEAR SIR, Moft obediently your's, B. DUFFIN. A STATEMENT of the ACTUAL and PROBABLE' LOSSES fuftained by ^Associate) Merchants of London and Ind i a, by the Capture of their .Ships. curred, for' .merica, be- f the Princefs Royal; for eady tc " To cafh paid .the China; for \ equipri i vouch' •T:o the equipm. To 473 fea otter (kins, feized on board the Prin ' cefs Royal, at ioo dollars per (kin To ia fea otter (kins detained for the particular . ufe of Mr. Martinez, at the fame valuation To the agent's expences in returning to England To infurance on the principal ftock, at 20 per cent, the ufual premium To the lofs of the officers' charts,'journals, nau- To the amount of wages du( thetimeoftheirfailingtotr To the value of the North ^ eoaft of America ' - i afcerta 11 the fe ;of "ROBABLE LOSSES. re of the cargo which probably would n colleaed by the Iphigenia, 1000 fea ins, at 100 dollars per (kin le of the cargo which would probably :n obtained by the North Weft Ame- i by t To the val (kins, at 100 dollars per (kin To the lofs and deftruaion of the Affociated Merchants To the particular lofs of the veffel of 30 tons frame, on board the Argonaut, and of the fhe would probably have obtained INVENTORY of the Goleta, the Property of Don Ju taken by Order of the Commandant Don Stj HER hull rotten, eaten through by the worm, as ap- by the furvev made by the mafter carpenter and caulker, ifano and Francis Jofeph de Caftro. Her Tw property of Dn. John Cawallo and Co. of Mac . «*«* THE END. Library B'ji ding ONLY arid as a ' , "p^sem 3d" Loan. 1. — —
Page 39 misnumbered as 36. Page 120 misnumbered as 20. Page 197 misnumbered as 179. Page 209 misnumbered as 206. Includes errata. Other copies: http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/30634960
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Original Format: University of British Columbia. Library. Rare Books and Special Collections. FC3821.1 .M42 1790
Indians of North America--Pacific Coast
Fur trade--Northwest, Pacific
Nootka Sound controversy
Northwest Coast of North America
Vancouver Island (B.C.)
Pacific Ocean
Northwest Passage
Voyages made in the years 1788 and 1789, from China to the north west coast of America. To which are prefixed, an introductory narrative of a voyage performed in 1786, from Bengal, in the ship Nootka; observations on the probable existence of a north west passage; and some account of the trade between the north west coast of America and China; and the latter country and Great Britain
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