CONTENTdm
British Columbia Historical Books Collection
A voyage to the Pacific Ocean
Cook, James, 1728-1779
Roberts, Henry, 1757-1796
King, James, 1750-1784
Description - "Performed under the direction of Captains Cook, Clerke, and Gore, in his Majesty's Ships the Resolution and Discovery. In the Years 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, and 1780, in three volumes. Vol. I. and II. writer by Capitain James Cook, F.R.S., Vol. III. by Capitain James King, LL.D. and F.R.S. Illustrated with Maps and Charts, from the Original Drawings made by Lieut. Henry Roberts, under the Direction of Capitain Cook. Published by Order of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty." -- Title page
559 pages : tables (1 folded) ; 23 cm
application/pdf
ESS £"V^fcf■ ^|r 6*1 ■9-4 >L J^w^C** if-Its ^v.-v-J^-*^' V-m /'3 f oo^4€~^ <^^>J5 UUK, -<5^v-. "W /q-3 - a^erf-y /V/^4^' .^^ c£^-C-w-1,; J^^^'-^^fi^^^uX X>^ / -0/ 1 -.-" jp\J -f-5 = ^~ rtLe- "*<fe_ fOl j^,.* ' 7 fc f 1 •A!-ii iVfcw i ' JSfc^V^lfV* ■ ~ >u^\ !*•■ j-©4 r*-*OH-' <£/£*, «i X **■ p%V /\>^S' H<w- ^V-wtC 0»JUii*', ?fZ&J(S±2 w m3k fci'' A V JO Y f A G |E T O T H E PACIFIC OCEAN. UNDERTAKEN, BY THE COMMAND OF HIS MAJESTY, FOR MAKING Difcoveriest in the Northern Hemifphere. TO DETERMINE The Position and Extent of the West Side of North America. ils Distance from Asia ; and the Practicability of a Northern Passage to Europe. performed under the direction of Captains C O O K, CLERKE, and GORE, In his Majesty's Ships the RESOLUTION and DISCOVERY. In the Years 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779* an^ 1780. IN THREE'VOLUMES. VOL. I. and II. written by Captain JAMES COOK, F.R.S. VOL. III. by Captain JAMES KING, LL. D. and F.R.S. Illttftrated with Maps and Charts, from the Original Drawings made by Lieut. Hssry Roberts under the Direfllon of Captain Cook. Publifhed by Order of the Lords C®mmifTioners of the Admiralty. VOL. III. DUBLIN: Printed for H. Chamberlaine, 'W. Watson, Potts, Williams, Cross, Jackson, Moncrieffe, Walker, Jenkin, Burnet, Wilson, Wogan, Exshaw, Vallance, Beatty, White, Whitestone, Burton, Byrne, Mjlls, J. Porter, Stewart, Wallace, Higly, Cash, Heery, Mc.Klnzie. m,dcc,lxxxiV. ws -a— Hsp\fc?8 ^s^ufe 3^, f$M^B bh jfe 1311 /jTcO O/S" <~^tSj WM l" SBf>4. 3 A 1 *?-?tf<^ V' 3 I^gM^. 9 - \; C O N T E N T S OF THE THIRD VOLUME. BOOK V. Captain King's Journal of **&te Tranfaclions on returning to the Sandwich Iflands. CHAP. I. T\Efcription of Karakakooa Bay.—Vaft Concourfe of the Natives.—Power of the Chiefs over the inferior People.—j^frit from Koah, a Prieft and Warrior.—The Morai at Kakooa defcribed. — Ceremonies at the Landing of Captain Cook.—Ob- fervatories erefied.—Powerful Operation of the faboo.—Method of falling Pork in tropical Climates.—Society of Priefls difcovered.—Their Hof- pitality and Munificence.—Reception of Captain Cook. — Artifice of Koah. — Arrival of Ter- reeoboo, King of the Ifland. — Singular ISp mony.—Vifit from the King.—Returned by Captain Cook. Page * CHAP. H. Farther Account of Tranfaclions with the Natives. —Their Hofpitality. — Propenfity to Theft.— Defcription of a Boxing Match.—Death of one of our Seamen.—Behaviour of the Priefls at his Funeral. The Wood Work and Images on the A. 2 Morai m CONTENTS. Morai pufchafed.—The Natives inquifitive about our Departure.—Their Opinion about the Defign of our Voyage.—Magnificent Prefents of Ter- reeoboo to Captain Cook.—The Ships leave the Ifland.—The Refolution damaged in a Gale, and obliged to return. 20 CHAP. III. Sufpicious Behaviour of the Natives, on our Return to Karakakooa Bay.—Theft on board the Difcovery, and its Confequences.—The Pinnace attacked, and the Crew obliged to quit her.— Captain Cook's Obfervations on the Occafion.—• Attempt at the Obfervatory.—The Cutter of the Difcovery ftolen.—Meafures taken by Captain Cook for its Recovery.—Goes on Shore, to invite the King on board.—The King being flopped by his Wife, and the Chiefs, a Conteft arifes.— News arrives of one of the Chiefs being killed by one of our People.—Ferment on this Occafion.— One of the Chiefs threatens Captain Cook, and is .fhot by him.—General Attack by the Natives.— Death of Captain Cook. — Account of the Captain's Services, and a fetch of his Char abler. 35 CHAP. IV. Tranfaclions at Owhyhee, fubfequent to the Death of Captain Cook. — Gallant Behaviour of the Lieutenant of Marines.—Dangerous Situation of the Party at the Morais—Bravery of one of the Natives.—Confutation refpetling futureMeafures. —Demand of the Body of Captain Cook.—Evafive and infidious Conducl of Koah, and the Chiefs.— Infolent Behaviour of the Natives.—Promotion of Officers.—Arrival of two Priefls with Part of the Body.—Extraordinary Behaviour of two Boys.—Burning of the Village of Kakooa.—- Unfortunate Deftruclion of the Dwellings of the Priefts.—Recovery of the Bones of Captain Cook.—Departure from Karakakooa Bay. 53 CHAP. CONTENTS. C H A P. V. Departure from Karakakooa in Search of an Harbour on the South Eaft Side of Mowee.—Driven to Leeward by the Eafterly Winds and Current. —Pafs the lfland of Tahoorowa .-—Defcription of the South Weft fide of Mowee.—Run along the Coafts of Ranai and Morotoi to Woahoo.— Defcription of the North Eaft Coaft of Woahoo. ■—Unfuccefsful Attempt to water.—Paffage to Atooi.—Anchor in Wymoa Bay. — Dangerous ■ Situation of the Watering Party on Shore.—■ Civil Dijfentions in the Iflands.—Vifit from the contending Chiefs. — Anchor off Oneeheow.— Final Departure from the Sandwich Iflands. 83 C H A P. VI. General Account of the Sandwich IJlands.—Their Number, Names, and Situation.—Owhyhee.— Its Extent, and Divifion into DiftriSis.—Account of its Coafts, and the adjacent Country.—Volcanic Appearances.—-Snowy Mountains.—Their Height determined.—Account of a Journey into the interior Parts of the Country.—Mowee.— Tahoorowa. —Morotoi. — Ranai.— Woahoo.—Atooi.—Oneeheow. —Gree- houa.—Tahoora .— Climate. — Winds. — Currents.—Tides. — Animals and Vegetables. — • Aftronomical Obfervations. 100 CHAP. VII. General Account of the Sandwich Iflands continued. —0/ the Inhabitants.—Their Origin.—Perfons. •—Pernicious Effetls of the Ava.—Numbers.—- Difpofition and Manners.—Reafons for fuppofing them not Cannibals.—Drefs and Ornaments.— Villages and Houfes.—Food.—Occupations and Amufements.—AddiHed to Gaming.—Their extraordinary Dexterity in Swimming.—Arts and Manufactures.—Curious Specimens of their Sculpture. — Kipparee, or Method of painting Cloth. —Mats. — Fifhing Hooks. — Cordage.—Salt Pans.—Warlike Inftruments. 124 C H A P. CONTENTS. CHAP. VIII. General Account of the Sandwich Iflands continued. —Government.—People divided into three Claffes. —Power of Eree-taboo.—-Genealogy of the Kings of Owhyhee and Mowee.—Power of the Chiefs. —State of the inferior Clafs. — Punifhment of Crimes. — Religion. — Society of Priefls.—The Orono. — Their Idols. — Songs chanted by the Chiefs, before they drink Ava.—Human Sacrifices. —Cufiom of knocking out the fore Teeth.—Notions with regard to a future State.—Marriages. —Remarkable Inftance of Jealoufy.—Funeral Rues. 15- BOOK VI. Tranfaclions during the fecond Expedition to the North, by the Way of Kamtfchatka; and on the Return Home, by the Way of Canton and the Cape of Good Hope. CHAP. I. Departure from Oneeheow.—Fruitlefs Attempt to difcover Modoopapappa. — Courfe fleered for Awatfka Bay.—Occurrences during that Paffage. —Sudden Change from Heat to Cold.—Diftrefs occafioned by the leaking of the Refolution.— View of the Coaft of Kamtfchatka.'—Extreme Rigour of the Climate.—Lofe Sight of the Dif- ■ covery.—The Refolution enters the Bay of Awatfka.—Profpecl of the Town of St. Peter and St. Paul.—Party fent afhore.—Their Reception by the Commanding Officer of the Port.—Meffage difpatched to the Commander at Bolcheretfk.—, Arrival of the Difcovery.—Return of the Mef- fengers, from the Commander. Mode of traveliin . German Ser Extr. aord Wary Vifit from a Merchant,and a mander. 17 i CHAP. mt belonging to the Commander. 17 i CONTENTS. CHAP. II. Scarcity of Provifions and Stores at the Harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.—A Party Jet out to vifit the Commander at Bolcheretfk.—Paffage up the River Awatfka.—Account of their Reception by the Toion of Karatchin.—Defcription of a Kamtfchadale Drefs. — Journey on Sledges.— Defcription of this Mode of Travelling.—Arrival at Natcheekin. — Account of hot ■ Springs.— Embark on the Bolchoireka.—Reception at the Capital.—Generous and hofpitable Conducl of the Commander and the Garrifon. — Defcription of Bolcheretfk. — Prefents from the Commander.— Ruffian and Kamtfchadale Dancing. — Afifetl- ing Departure from Bolcheretfk. — Return to Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, accompanied by Major Behm, who vifits the Ships.—Gene- rofity of the Sailors. — Difpatches fent by Major Behm to Peterfburg.—His Departure and Charatler. \ 96 CHAP. III. Continuation @f Tranfaclions in the Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. — Abundance of Fifh. —• Death of a Seaman belonging to the Refolution. —The Ruffian Hofpital put under the Cars of the Ships Surgeons.-—Supply of Flour and Cattle.— Celebration of the King's Birth-day.—Difficulties in Jailing out of the Bay.—Eruption of a Volcano—Steer to the Northward.—Cheepoonfkoi Nofs.—Errors of the Ruffian Charts. — Kamt- Jchatjkoi Nofs.—Olutorjkoi Nojs. — Tjchukotjkoi Nofs.— Ifland of St. Laurence.—View from the fame Point, of the Coafts of Afia and America, and the Iflands of St. Diomede. — Various Attempts to get to the North, between the two Continents.— Obftrucled by impenetrable Ice.—Sea- horfes and white Bears killed.—Captain Clerke's Determination, and future Defigns. 228 CHAP. CONTENDS. CHAP. IV"! Fruitlefs Attempts to penetrate through the Ice to the North Weft.—Dangerous Situation of the Difcovery. — Sea-horfes killed.—Frefh Obftruc- tims from the Ice.—Report of Damages received by the Difcovery.—Captain Gierke's Determination to proceed to the Southward.—Joy of the Ships Crews on that Occafion.—Pafs Serdze Ka- men.—Return through Beering's Straits—Inquiry into the Extent of the North Eaft Coaft of Afia. ■—Reajons for rejetling Mutter's Map of the Promontory of the Tfchutfki.—Reafonsfor believing the Coaft does not reach a higher Latitude than jo° 4- North.-—General Obfervations on the Impracticability of a North Eaft, or North Weft Paffage from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean. —Comparative View of the Progrefs made in the Tears 1778 and 1779.—Remarks on the Sea, and Sea-coafts, North of Beering's Straits.—Hiftory of the Voyage refumed.—Pafs the Ifland of St. Laurence.—The Ifland of Mednoi.—Death of Captain Clerke.—Short Account of his Services. 255 CHAP. V. Return to the Harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.—Promotion of Officers.—Funeral of Captain Clerke.-— Damages of the Difcovery repaired. '■—Various other Occupations of the Ships Crews. — Letters from the Commander. — Supply of Flour and Naval Stores from a Ruffian Galliot. •—Account of an Exile.—-Bear-hunting and Fifhing Parties.—Difgrace of the Serjeant.—Celebration of the King's Coronation Day, and Vifit from the Commander.—The Serjeant reinftated.— A Ruffian Soldier promoted at mer Requefi.—■ Remarks on the Dijcipline of the Ruffian Army. —Church at Paratounca. — Method of Bear- hunting. —Farther Account of the Bears and Kamtfchadales. ■— Infcription to the Memory of Captain /-I CONTENTS. Captain Clerke.—Supply of Cattle.—-Entertainments on the Emprefs's Name Day. — Prefent from the Commander.—Attempt of a Marine to defert.—Work out of the Bay.—Nautical and Geographical Defcription of Awatfka Bay. — Aftronomical Tables, and Obfervations. 283 C H A P, VI. General Account of Kamtfchatka.—Geographical Defcription. — Rivers. — Soil.—Climate.—Vol- canotef— Hot Springs. — Produilions. — Vegetables.—Animals.—Birds.—Fifh. 325 chap, ipy eneral Account of Kamtfchatka continued.—-Of the Inhabitants. —Origin of the Kamtfchadales. — Difcovered by the Ruffians.—Abflracl of their Hiftory. ■— Numbers. — Prejent State.—Of the Ruffian Commerce in Kamtfchatka. — Of the Kamtfchadale Habitations and Drefs. — Of the Kurile Iflands.—The Koreki.—The Tfchutfki. 350. CHAP. VIII. Plan of our future Proceedings.—Courfe to the Southward, along the Coaft of Kamtfchatka.— Cape LopaSka.-.—Pafs the Iflands Shoomfka and Paramoufer.—Driven to the Eaftward of the Kuriles.—Singular Situation with rejpefi to the pretended Difcoveries of former Navigators.—• Fruitlefs Attempts to reach the IJlands North of Japan.—Geographical Conclujions.—View of the Coaft of Japan.—Run along the Eaft Side.—Pafs two Japanefe Veffels.—Driven off the Coaft by contrary Winds.—Extraordinary EffecJ of Currents.-—Steer for the Bajhees.—Pafs large Quantities of Pumice Stone.—Difcover Sulphur fftand. —Pafs the Prat as.—Ifles of Lema, and Ladron Ifland.—-Chinefe Pilot taken on Board the Refolution.—Journals of the Officers and Men fecured. 384 'OL, III. CHAP- C O N T E N T CHAP. IX. Working up to Macao.—A Chinefe Comprador.—5 Sent on Shore to vifit the Portuguese Governor.—Effe'cls of the Intelligence we received from Eur'dpe.—Anchor in the Typa.—Paffage up to dCanton.—Bocca Tygris.—-Wampu.—Defcription of a Sampane.—Reception at thte Engiifh Fatlory. —Inftance of the fufpicious Charailer of the Chinefe.—Of their Mode of trading.—Of the City of Canton.—Its Size.—Population.—Number of Sampanes.—Military Force.—Of the Streets and Houfes.—Vifit to a Chinefe.—Return to Macao.— Great Demand for the Sea-otter Skins.—Plan of a Voyage for opening a Fur Trade on the Weftern Coaft of America, and prqfecuting further Difcoveries in the. Neig hbour- hood of Japan.—Departure from Macao.—Price of Provifions in China. 419 C H A P. X. Leave the Typa.—Orders of the Court of France refpeclmg Captain Cook. •— Refolutions in confequence thereof.—Strike Soundings on the Macclefi field Banks.—Pafs Pulo Sapata. — Steer for Pulo Condore.—Anchor at Pulo Condore.—Tranfaclions during our Stay.—Journey to the principal Town.—Receive a vifit from a Mandarin. —Examine his Letters. — Refrefhments to be procured.—Defcription, and prefent State of the, Ifland. —- Its Produce. — An Affertion of M. Sonnerat refuted. — Aftronomical and Nautical Obfervations. 447 C H A P. XI. Dep\arture from Pulo Condore.—Pafs the Straits of Banca.—View of the Ifland of Sumatra.—Straits of Sunda.— Occurrences there. — Defcription of the Ifland of Cracatoa.—Prince's Ifland.—Effebls of the Climate of Java.—Run to the Cape of Good Hope.—Tranfaclions there.—Defcription of Falfe Bay.—Paffage to the Orkneys. — General "Refteilions. 465 A P- CONTENTS. A P P E N I X. No. I. Tables of the Route of the Refolution and Difcovery, the Variation of the Compafs, and Meteorological Obfervations, during the Voyage* 495 II. A comparative Table of Numerals, exhibiting the Affinity and Extent of Language, which is found to prevail in all the Iflands of the Eaftern Sea, and derived from that fpoken on the Continent of Afia, in the Country of the Malayes. Fronting 530 III. Vocabulary of the Languages of the Friendly Iflands. ' 531 IV. Vocabulary of the Language of Nootka, or King George's Sound. 542 V. Vocabulary of the Language of Atooi, one of the Sandwich Iflands, 549 VI. Table to fhew the Affinity between the Lan guages fpoken at Oonalafhka and Norton Sound, and thofe of the Greenlanders and Efquimaux. 554 yil. Table of the Variations of the Compafs, obferved by Captain Cook during his Paffage from England to the Cape of Good Hope. See Vol. I. p. 49. 556 mm V O Y A G E T O T H E PACIFIC OCEAN. BOOK V* Captain King's Journalj^Ehe Traljfaclions on returning to the;-llandwich Iflands. CHAP. I. Defcription of Karakakooa Bay.—Vaft Concourfe of the Natives^—Power of the ChiefOjgover the inferior People.—Vifit from Koah, a Prieft and Warrior.—The Morai at Kakooa defcribed.—! Ceremonies at the Landing of Captain Cook.—■ Obfervatories erecled.—Powerful Operation of the Tab^.—Method of fait ing Pork in tropical Climates.—Society of Priefts difcovered.—Their Hof- pitality and Munificence.—Reception of Captain Cook.—Artifice of Koah.—Arrival of Terreeo- ■boo, King of the Ifland.—Singular Ceremony.—• Vifit from the King.—Returned by Captain Cook. KARAKAKOOA Bay is fituated on the Weft fide of the ifland of Owhyhee, in a diftrict January, called Akona. It is about a mile in depth, and < bounded by two low points of land, at the diftance of half a league, and bearing South South Eaft and North North Weft from each other. On Vol. III. B (M the '779- A VOYAGE T >779- January the North point, which is flat and barren, ftands the village of Kowrowa -, and in the bottom of the bay, near a grove of tall cocoa-nut trees, there is another village of a more confiderable fize, called Kakooa : between them, runs a high rocky cliff, inacceflible from the fea fhore. On the South fide, the coaft, for about a mile inland* has a rugged appearance •, beyond which the country rifes with a gradual afcent, and is over- fpread with cultivated inclofures and groves of cocoa-nut trees, where the habitations of the natives are fcattered in great numbers. The fhore, all around the bay, is covered with a black coral rock, which makes the landing very dangerous . in rough weather ; except at the village of Kakooa, where there is a fine fandy beach, with a Morai, or burying-place, at one extremity, and a fmall well of frefh water, at the other. This bay appearing to Captain Cook a proper place to refit the fhips, and lay in an additional fupply<$jfv water and provifions, we moored on thej^North fide, about a quarter of a mile from,<|he fhore, Kowrowa beariffg North Weft. As foon as the inhabitants perceived ^Intention of anchoring in the bay, they came off from the fhore in aftonifhing numbers, and expreffed their joy by fmging and fhouting, and exhibiting a variety of will and extravagant geftures. The fides, the decks, and rigging of both fhips were foon completely covered with them-, and a multitude of women and boys, who had not been able to get canoes, came fwimming round us in fhoals 5 many of whom, not finding room on board, remained the whole day playing in the water. Among the chiefs who came on board the Refolution, was a young man, called Pareea, whom we foon perceived to be a perfon of great authority. On prefenting himfelf to Captain Cook, he THE PACIFIC OCEAN. he told him, that he was Jakanee * to the king of the ifland, who was at that time engaged on a military expedition at Mowee, and was expected to return within three or four days. A few prefents from Captain Cook attached him entirely to our interefts, and he became exceedingly ufeful to us in the management of his countrymen, as we had foon occafion to experience. For we had not been long at anchor, when it was obferved that the Difcovery had fuch a number of people hanging on one fide, as occafioned her to heel confiderably : and that the men were unable to keep off the crowds which continued preffing into her. Captain Cook, being apprehenfive that fhe might fuffer fome injury, pointed out the danger to. Pare.«fb. wno immediately went to their affiftance, cleared the fhip of its incumbrances, and drove away the canoes that furroundedher. The authority of the chiefs over the inferior people appeared, from this incident, to be of the moft defpotic kind. A fimilar inftajace of it happened the fame day on board the Refolution ; Habere the crowd being fo great, as to impede the neceffgry bufinefs of the fhip, we were obliged to have recourfe to the affiftance of Kaneena, ano- &b$x of their chiefs, who had likewife attached, himfelf to Captain Cook. The inconvenience we laboured under being made known, he im- mediajfeely ordered his countrymen to quit the yejuel; and we were not a little furprized to fee them jump overboard, without a moment's hesitation; all except one man, who loitering behind, and ihewing fome unwillingnefs to obey, Ka- * We afterward met with feveral others of the fame denomination ; but whether it be an office, or fome degree; Of affinity, we could, never le?rn with certainty. B 2 neena »779- Januav; A VOYAGE TO neena took njm up in his arms, and threw him into the fea. Both thefe chiefs were men of ftrong and well- proportioned bodies, and of countenances remarkably pleafing. Kaneena efpecially, whofe por- -rrait Mr. Webber has drawn, was one of the fineft men I ever faw. He was about fix feet high, had regular, and expreffive features, with lively, dark eyes; his carriage was eafy, firm, and graceful. It has been already mentioned, that during our long cruize off this ifland, the inhabitants hSfl always behaved with great fairnefs and honefty in their dealings, and had not fhewn the flighteft propenfity t^Jtheft; which appeared to us the more extraordinary, becaufe thofe with whom we had hitherto held any intercourfe, were ofiffe loweft rank, either fervants or fifhermen. We now found the cafe exceedingly altered. The immenfe crowd of iflanders, which blocked up every part of the fhips, not only afforded frequent opportunity of pilfering without rifk of difcovery, but our inferiority in number held forth a profpect. of efcaping with impunity in cafe of detection. Another circumftance,( to which we attributed this alteration in their behaviour, was the prefence and encouragement of their chiefs ; for generally tracing the booty into thdypotfeffion of fome men of confequence, we had the ftrongeft reafon to fufpect that thefe depredations were committed at their inftigation. . Soon after the Refolution had got into her ftation, our two friends, Pareea and Kaneena, brought on board a third chief, named Koah, who, we were told, was a prieft, and had been, in his youth, a diftinguifhed warrior. He was a little old man, of an emaciated figure ; his eyes exceedingly THE PACIFIC OCEAN. exceedingly fore and red, and his body covered with a white leprous fcurf, the effects of an immoderate ufe of the ava. ' Being led into the cabin, he approached Captain Cook with great veneratioii, and threw over his Shoulders a piece of red cloth, which he had brought along with him. Then ftepping a few paces back, he made an offering of a fmall pig, which he held in his hand, whilft he pronounced a difcourfe that lafted for a confiderable time. This ceremony was frequently repeated during our ftay at Owhyhee, and appeared to us, from many circumftances, to be a fort of religious adoration. Their idols we found always arrayed with red cloth, in the fame manner as was done to Captain Cook; and a fmall pig was their ufual offering to the Eatooas. Their fpeeches, or prayers, were uttered too with a readinefs and volubility that indicated them to be according to fome formulary. When this ceremony was ojf^r, Koah dined with Captain Cook, eating plentifully of what was fet before him ; but, like the reft of the inhabitants of the iflands in thefe Seas, could fcarcely | be_prevailed on to tafte a fecond.lijg3£u^QUJu-^wne or fpirits. In the evening, Captain Cook, attended by Mr. Bayly and myfelf, accompanied him on fhore. We landed at the beach, and were received by four men, who carried wands tipt with dog's hair, and marched before us, pronouncing with a loud voice a fhort fentence, in which we could only diftinguifh the word Orono *. * Captain Cook generally went by this name amongft the natives of Owhyhee; but we could never learn its precife meaning. Sometimes they applied it to an invisible being, who, they faid, lived in the heavens. We alfo found that it was a title belonging to a perfonage of great rank and power in tlfe ifland, who refembles pretty . much the Delai Lama of the Tartars, and the ecclefiafticat •emperor of Japan. Tke 5 AVOYAGETO 1779. The crowd, which had been collected on the January, fhore, retired at our approach -, and not a perfon ' was to be feen, except a few lying proftrate on the ground, near the huts of the adjoining village. _ s^- Before I proceed to relate the adoration that was paid to Captain Cook, and the pecwiar ceremonies with which he was received on this fatal ifland, it will be neceffary to defcribe the Morai, fituated, as I have already mentilf-ned, at the South fide of the beach at Kakooa. It was a fquare fofid pile of ftones, about foi^y yards long, -twenty broad, and fourteen in height. The top was flat, and well paved, and furrounded by a wooden rail, on whllh were fixed the fculls of the captives, facrificed on the death of their chiefs. In the centre of the area, ftood a ruinous old building of wood, connected with the rlftl, on each fide, by a ftone wall, which divided the whole fpace into two parts. On the fide next the country, were five poles, upward of twenty feet high, fupporting an irregular kind off fcaf- tfbld •, on the oppofite fide, toward the fea, ftood two fmall houfes, with a covered communication. We were conducted by Koah to the top of this pile by an eafy afcent, leading from the beach to the North Weft corner of the area. At the entrance, we faw two large wooden images, with features violently diftorted, and a long piece of carved wood, of a 'fonical form inverted, rifing from the top of their heads ; the reft was vfehout form, and wrapped round with red cloth. We were here met by a tall young man with a long beard, who prefented Captain Cook to the images, and after chanting a kind of hymn, in which he was joined by Koah, they led us to that end .of the Mcrai, where the five poles were fixed. At THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 7 At the foot of them were twelve images ranged 1779- in a femicircular form, and before the middle J^^, figure, ftood a high ftand or table, exactly refembling the Whatta * of Otaheite, on which lay a putrid hog, and under it pieces of fugar-cane, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, plantains, and fweet potatoes. Koah having placed the Captain under this ftand, took down the hog, and held it toward ^im ; and after having a fecond time addreffed him in a long fpeech, pronounced with much vehemence and rapidity, he let it fall on the ground, and led him to the fcaffolding, whigh they began to climb together, not without great rifle of falling. At this time we faw, coming in folemn proceffion, at the entrance of the top of the Morai, ten men carrying a live hog, and a large piece of red cloth. Being advanced a few paces, they flopped, and proftrated themfelves ; and Kaireekeea, the young man above-mentioned, went to them, and receiving the cloth, carried it to Koah, who wrapped it round the Captain, and afterward offered him the hog, which was brought by Kaireekeea witbjrhe fame ceremony. Whilft Captain Cook was aloft, in this auk- ward fituation, fwathed round with red cloth, and with difficulty keeping his hold amongft the pieces of rotte^j" fcaffolding, Kaireekeea and Koah began their office, chanting fometimes in concert, and fometimes alternately. This lafted a confiderable time; at length Koah let the hog drop, when he and the Captain defcended together. He then led him to the images before mentioned, and having faid fomething to each in a fneering tone, fnapping his fingers at them as he paffed, he brought him to that in the center, which, from * See Captain Cook's former Voyage. its 8 AVOYAGE T #f 1779- its being covered with red cloth, appeared to be January^ gj greater eftimation than the reft. Before this '—-v—-' figure he proftrated himfelf, and kiffed it, defiring Captain Cook to do the fame ; who fuffered himfelf to be directed by Koah throughout the whole of this ceremony. We were now led back into the other divifion of the Morai, where there was a fpace, ten or twelve feet fquare, funk about three feet below the level of the area. Into this We defcended, and Captain Cook was feated between two wooden idols, Koah fupporting one of his arms, whilft I was defired to fupport the other. At this time, arrived a fecond proceffion of natives, carrying a baked hog, and a pudding, fome bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other vegetables. When they approached us, Kaireekeea put himfelf at their head, and presenting the pig to Captain Cook in the ufual manner, began the fame kind of chant as before, his companions making regular refponfes. We obferved, that after every refponfe, their parts became gradually fhorter, till, toward the clofe, Kaireekeea's confifted of only two or three words, which the reft anfwered by the. word Orono. When this offering was concluded, which laft- ed a quarter of an hour, the natives fat down, fronting us, and began to cut up the baked hog, to peel the vegetables, and break the cocoa-nuts ; whilft others employed themfelves in brewing the ova; which is done, by chewing it in the fame manner as at the Friendly Iflands. Kaireekeea then took part of the kernel of a cocoa-nut, which he chewed, and wrapping it in a piece of cloth, rubbed with it the Captain's face, head, hands, arms, and fhoulders. The ava i7?9- January- THE PACIFIC OCEAN.- ava was then handed round, and after we had tafted it, Koah and Pareea began to pull the flefh of the hog in pieces, and to put it into our mouths. I had no great objection to being fed by Pareea, who was very cleanly in his perfon; but Captain Cook, who was ferved by Koah, recollecting the putrid hog, could not fwallow a morfel ; and his reluctance, as may be fuppofed, was not -diminifhed, when the old man, according to his own mode of civility, had chewed it for him. When this laft ceremony was finifhed, which Captain Cook put an end to as foon as he decently could, we quitted the Morai, after distributing amongft the people fome pieces of iron and other trifles, with which they feemed highly gratified. The men with wands conducted us to the boats, repeating the fame words as before. The people again retired, and the few that remained, proftrated themfelves as we paffed along the fliore. We immediately went on board, our minds full of what we had feen, and extremely well fatisfied with the good difpofitions of our new friends. The meaning of the various ceremonies, with which we had been received, and which, on account of their novelty and Angularity, have been related at length, can only be the fubject of conjectures, and thofe uncertain and partial: they were, however, without doubt, expreffive of high refpect on the part of the natives; and, as far as related to the perfon of Captain Cook, they feerned approaching to adoration. The next morning, I went on fliore with a Monday guard of eight marines, including the corporal 18. and lieutenant, having orders to erect the ob- fervatory in fuch a fituation as might beft enable me to fuperintend and protect the waterers, and the io A VOYAGE TO f779- the other working parties that were to be on S fhore. As we were viewing a fpot conveniently fituated for this purpofe, in the middle of the village, Pareea, who was always ready to (hew both his power and his good will, offered to pull down fome houfes that would have obftruct- ed our obfervations. However, we thought it proper to decline this offer, and fixed on a field of fweet potatoes adjoining to the Morai, which was readily granted us; and the priefts, to prevent the intrulion of the natives, immediately confecrated the place, by fixing their wands round the wall by which it was inclofed. This fort of religious interdiction they call taboo; a word we hearg| often repeated, during our ftay amongft thefe iflanders, and found to be of very powerful and extenfive operation. A more particular explanation of it will be given in the general account of thefe iflands, ^toder the article of religion ; at prefent it is only neceffary to obferve, that it procured us even more privacy than we defired. No canoes ever pre- fumed to land near us; the natives fat on the wall, but none offered to come withi» the tabooed fpace, till he had obtained our permiffion. But though the men, at our requeft, would come acrofs the field with provifions, yet not all our endeavours could prevail on the women to approach us. Prefents were tried, but without effect ; Pareea and Koah were tempted to bring them, but in vain; we were invariably anfwered, that the Eatooa and Terreeoboo (which was the name of their king) would kill therJa* This circumftance afforded no fmall matter of amufe- ment to our friends on board, where the crowds of people, and particularly of women, that continued to flock thither, obliged them almoft every hour to clear the veffel, in order to have ■room THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ii room to do the neceffary duties of the fhip, 1779. On thefe occafions, two or three hundred wo- January. men were frequently made to jump into the "■" ' water at once, where they continued fwimming and playing about, till they could again procure -J-" admittance. From the 19th to the 24th, when Pareea and Tuefday Koah left us to attend Terreeoboo, who had 19. landed on fome other part of the ifland, nothing very material happened on board. The caulkers were fet to work on the fides of the fhips, and the rigging was carefully overhauled and repaired. The falting of hogs for fea-ftore was alfo a conftant, and one of the principal objects of Captain Co>k's attention. As the fuccefs we met with in this experiment, during our prefent voyage, wa® rnuelfcmore complete -than it had been in any former attempt of the fame kind, it may not be improper to give an account of the detail of the operation.. It has generally been thought impracticable to cure the flefh of animals by falting, in tropical climates; the progrefs of putrefaction being fo rapid, as not to allow time for the fait to take (as they exprefs it) before the meat gets a taint, which prevents the effect of the pickle. We do not find that experiments relative to this fubject have been made by the navigators of any nation before Captain Cook. In his firft trials, which were made in 1774, during his fecond voyage to the Pacific Ocean, the fuccefs he met . w'rtfa, though very imperfect, was yet fufficient to convince him of the error of the received opinion. As the voyage, in w4$ch he was now engaged, was likely to be protracted a year beyond tfee time for which the fhips had been victualled, he was under the neceffity of providing, by fome fuch means, for the fubfiftence of ii A VOYAGE TO *779- of the crews, or of relinquifhing the further pro- January^ f0^^)n Qf n\s difcoveries. He therefore loft no opportunity of renewing his attempts, and the event anfwered his moft fanguine expectations. The hogs, which we made ufe of for this purpofe, were of various fizes, weighing from four to twelve ftone*. The time of flaughtering was always in the afternoon ; and as foon as the hair was fcalded off, and the entrails removed, the hog was divided into pieces of four or eight pounds each, and the bones of the legs and chine taken out -, and, in the larger fort, the ribs alfo. Every piece then being carefully wiped and examined, and the veins cleared of the coagulated blood, they were handed to the falters, whilft the flefh ffernained ftill warm. After they had been well rubbed with fait, they were placed in a heap, on a ftage raifed in the open air, covered with planks, and preffed with the heavieft weights we could lay on them. In this fituation they remained till the next evening, when they were again well wiped and examined, and the fufpicious parts taken away. They were then put into a tub of ftrong pickle, where they were always looked over once or twice a day, and if any piece had not taken the fait, which was readily difcovered by the fmell of the pickle, they were immediately taken out, re-examined, and the found pieces put to frefh pickle. This, however, after the precautions before ufed, feldom happened. After fix days, they were taken out, examined for the laft time, and being again flightly preffed, they were packed in barrels, with a thin layer of fait between them. I brought home with me fome barrels of this pork, which was pickled at Owhyhee in January i779> and was tailed by feveral perfons in England i4 lb. j* about 599 THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 15 about Chriftmas 17 80, and found perfectly found 1779. and wholefome *. January. I fhall now return to our tranfactions on fhore at the obfervatory, where we had not been long fettled, before we difcovered, in our neighbourhood, the habitations of a fociety of priefts, whofe regular attendance at the Morai had excited our curiofity. Their huts ftood round a pond of water, and were furrounded by a grove of cocoa-nut trees, which feparated them from the beach and the reft of the village, and gave the place an air of religious retirement. On my acquainting Captain Cook with thefe circumftances, he refolved to pay them a vifit ; and as he expected to be received in the fame manner as before, he brought Mr. Webber with him to make a drawing of the ceremony. On his arrival at the beach, he was conducted to a facred building called Harreno-Orono, or the houfe of Orono, and feated before the entrance, at the foot of a wooden idol, of the fame kind * Since thefe papers were prepared for the prefs, I have been informed by Mr. Vancouver, who was one of my Midfliipmen in the Difcovery, and was afterwards appointed Lieutenant of the Martin floop of war, that he tried the method here recommended, both with Engiifh and Spanifh pork, during a cruize on the Spanifh Main, in the year 1782, and fucceeded to the utmoft of his expectations. He alfo made the experiment at Jamaica with the beef ferved by the victualling office to the fhips, but not with the fame fuccefs, which he attributes to the want of the neceffary precautions ir. killing and handling the beads ; to their being hung up and opened before they had fufficient time to bleed, by which means the blood-veffels were expofed to the air, and the blood con- den fed before it had time to empty itfelf ; and to their being hard driven and bruifed. He adds, that having himfelf attended to the killing of an ox, which was carefully taken on bard the Martin, he falted a part of it, which at the end of the week was found'to have taken the fait completely, and he has no doubt would have kept 4br any length of time ; but the experiment was not tried. with *4 A VOYAGE TO i779» with thofe on the Morai. I was here again made January. to fUpp0rt one 0f his arms, and after wrapping ~ him in red cloth, Kaireekeea, accompanied by twelve priefts, made an offering of a pig with the ufual folemnities. The pig was then ftrangled, and a fire being kindled, it was thrown into the embers, and after the hair was finged off, ifewas again prefenffd, with a repetition of the chanting, in the manner before defcribed. The dead pig was then held for a fhort time under the Captain's ncfe; after which it was laid, with a cocoavppt, at his feet, and the performers fat down. The ava was jhen brewed, and handed ro<|pd; a fat hog, ready dreffed, was brought in ; and we were fed as before. During the reft of the time we remained ^ the bay, whenever Captain Cook came on fhore, he was attended by one of thefe priefts, who went before him, giving notice that the Orono had landed, and ordering the people to proftrate themfelves. The fame perfon alfo conftantly accompanied him on the water, ftanding in the bow of the boat, with a wand in his hand, and giving notice of his approach to the natives, who were in canoes, on which they immediately left off paddling, and lay down on their faces till he had paffed. Whenever he flopped at the obfervatory, Kaireekeea and his brethren immediately made ifieir appearance with hogs, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, &c. and prefented them with the ufual folemnities. It was on thefe occafions that fome of the inferior chiefs frequently requefted to be permitted to make an offering to the Orono. When this w$$ granted, they prefented the hog themfelves, generally with evkljnf jjnarks of fear in their coun- Igjiances; whilft Kaireekeea and the priefts chanted their accuftomed hymnsV - The civilities of this fociety were not, however, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ever, confined to mere ceremony and parade. Our party on fhore received frorfl them, every day, a conftant fupply of hogs and vegetables, more than fufficient for our fubfiftence ; and feveral canoes loaded with provifions were fent to the fhips with the fame punctuality. No return was ever demanded, or even hinted at in the moft diftant manner. Their prefents were made with a regularity, more like the difcharge of a religious duty, than the effect of mere liberality * and when we enquired at whofe charge all this munificence was difplayed, we were told, it was at the expence of a great man called Kaoo, the chief of the priefts, and grandfather to Kaireekeea, who was at that time abfent attending the king of the ifland. As every thing relating to the character and behaviour of this people muft be interefting to the reader, on account of the tragedy that was afterwards acted here, it will be proper to acquaint him, that we had not always fo much reafon to be fatisfied with the conduct of the warrior chiefs, or Earees, as with that of the priefts. In all our dealings with the former, we found them fufficiently attentive to their own interefts; and befides their habit of ftealing, which may admit of fome excufe, from the uni- verfality of the practice amongft the iflanders of thefe feas, they made ufe of other artifices equally difhonourable. I fhall only mention one inftance, in which we difcovered, with regret, our friend Koah to be a party principally concerned,. As the chiefs, who wrought us prefents of hogs, were always fent back handfomely rewarded, we had generally a greater fupply than we could make ufe of. On thefe occafions, Koah, who never failed p his attendance on us, ufed to beg fuch as we did not want, and they were always It one day happened, that a pig was given to him Tuefday 26. A VOYAGE TO was prefented us by a man whom Koah himfelf introduced as a chief, who was defirous of paRt^ ing his refpects, and we recollected the pig to be the fame that had been given to Koah juft before. This leading us to fufpect fome trick, found, on further inquiry, the pretended chief to be an ordinary perfon ; and on connecting this with other circumftances, we had reafon to fufpect, that it was not the firft time we had been the dupes of the like imposition. Things continued in this ftate till the 24th, when we were a good deal furprized to find that no canoes were fuffered to put off from the fhore, and that the natives kept clofe to their houfes. After feveral hours fufpence, we learned that the bay was tabooed, and all intercourfe with lis interdicted, on account of the arrival of Ter- reeoboo. As we had not forefeen an accident of this fort, the crews of bop fhips were obliged to pafs the day without theii-jufual fupply of vegetables. The next morning, therefore, they endeavoured, both by threats and promifes, to induce the natives to come along-fide; and as fome of them were at laft yenturing ta put off, a chief was obferved attempting to drive them away. A mufquet was immediately fired over his head, to make him defift, which had the defired refrefhments were foon after pur- chafed as ufual. In the afternofon, Terreeoboo arrived, and vifited the fhips in a private manner, attended only by one canoe, in which were his wife and children. He ftaid on board till near ten o'clock, when he returned to the village of Kowrowa. The next day, about noon, the king, in a large canoe, attended by two others, fet out from the village, and paddled toward the fhiSk in great ftate. Their appearance was grand and magnificent. In the firft canoe was Terreeoboo and A VOYAGE TO 17 and his chiefs, dreffed in their rich feathered '779- clokes and helmets, and armed with long fpears /^"j^J',, and daggers ; in the fecond, came the venerable Kaoo, the chief of the priefts, and his brethren, with their idols difplayed on red cloth. Thefe idols were bufts of a gigantic fize, made of wicker-work, and curioufly covered with fmall feathers of various colours, wrought in the fame manner with their cloaks. Their eyes were made of large pearl oyfters, with a black nut fixed in the centre ; their mouths were fet with a double row of the fangs of dogs, and, together with the reft of their features, were ftrangely diftorted. The third canoe was filled with hogs and various forts of vegetables. As they went along, the priefts in the centre canoe fung their hymns with great folemnity; and after paddling round the fhips, inftead of going on board, as was expected, they made toward the fhore at the beach where we were flationed. As foon as I faw them approaching, I ordered out our little guard to receive the king 5 and Captain Cook, perceiving that he was going on fhore, followed him, and arrived nearly at the fame time. We conducted them into the tent, v/here they had fcarcely been feated, when the king rofe up, and in a very graceful manner threw over the Captain's fhoulders the cloak he himfelf wore, put a feathered helmet on his head, and a curious fan into his hand. He alfo fpread at his feet five or fix other cloaks, all exceedingly beautiful, and of the greateft value. His attendants then brought four very large hogs, with fugar-canes, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit; and this part of the ceremony was concluded by the king's exchanging names with Captain Cook, which amongft all the iflanders of the Pacific Ocean, is efteemed the ftrongeit Vol. III. C pledge A VOYAGE TO 1779- January pledge of friendfhip. A proceffion of priefls^ with a venerable old perfonage at their head, now appeared, followed by a long train of men leading large hogs, and others carrying plantains, fweet potatoes, &c. By the looks and geftures of Kaireekeea, I immediately knew the old man to be the chief of the priefts before mentioned, on whofe bounty we had fo long fubfifted. He had a piece of red cloth in his hands, which he wrapped round Captain Cook's fhoulders, and afterward prefented him with a fmall pig in the ufual form. A feat was then- made for him, next to the king, after which, Kaireekeea and his followers began their ceremonies, Kaoo and the chiefs joining in the refponfes. I was furprized to fee, in the perfon of this king the fame infirm and emaciated old man, that came on board the Refolution when we were off the North Eaft fide of the ifland of Mowee-; and we foon difcovered amongft his . attendants moft of the perfons who at that time had remained with us ail night. Of this number were the two younger fons of the king, the eldeft of whom was fixteen years of age, and his nephew Maiha-Maiha, whom at firft we had fome difficulty in recollecting, his hair being plaftered over with a dirty brown pafte and powder, which was no mean heightening to the moft favage face I ever beheld. As foon as the formalities of the meeting were over, Captain Cook carried Terreeoboo, and as many chiefs as the pinnace could hold, on board the Refolution. They were received with every mark of refpect that could be fhewn them ; and Captain Cook, in return for the feathered cloak, put a linen fhirt on the king, and girt his own hanger round him. The ancient Kaoo, and about half a dozen more old .*. chiefs^ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. i9 chiefs, remained on fhore, and took up their 17 79- abode at the priefts houfes. During all this 2l!lU^Zj time^.not a canoe was feen in the bay, and the natives either kept within their huts, or lay proftrate on the ground. Before the king left the Refolution, Captain Cook obtained leave for the natives to come and trade with the fhips as ufual; but the women, for what reafon we could not learn, ftill continued under the effects of the taboo; that is, were forbidden to ftir from home, or to have any communication with us* 'JgM&J&fg. 129 i C CHAP,; A VOYAGE TO CHAP. II. Farther Account of Tranfaclions -with the Natives.—Their Hofpitatity.<—Propenfity to Theft. -Defcription of a Boxing Match.'—Death of one of our Seamen.—BehaWg§i of the Priefts at his Funeral.—The Wood Work and Images on the Morai purchafed.—The Natives inqui- fitive about our Departure.—Their Opinion about the Defign of our Voyage.—Magnificent Prefents ef Terreeoboo to Captain Cook.—The Ships leave the Ifland.—The Refolution damaged bt a Gale, and obliged to return. TH E quiet and inoffenfive behaviour of the natives having taken away every appre- henfion of danger, we did not hefitate to truft ourfelves amongft them at all times, and in all fituations. The Officers of both fhips went daily up the country in fmall parties, or even fmgly, and frequently remained out the whole night. It would be endlefs to recount all the inftances of kindnefs and civility which we received upon thofe occafions. Wherever we went, the people flocked about us, eager to offer every affiftance in their power, and highly gratified if their fer- vices were accepted. Various little arts were; practifed to attract our notice, or to delay our departure. The boys and girls ran before, as we walked through their villages, and flopped us at every opening, where there was room to form a group for dancing. At one time, we 1 were invited to accept a draught of cocoa-nut milk, or fome other refrefhment under the fhade of their huts; at another, we were feated within THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ft* within a circle of young women, who exerted 1779- all their fkill and agility to amufe us with fangs J^^ and dances. The fatisfaction we derived from their gen- tlenefs and hofpitality, was, however, frequently interrupted by that propenfity to ftealing, which they have in common with all the other iflanders of thefe feas. This circumftance was the more diftreifing, as it fometimes obliged us to have recourfe to acts of feverity, which we fhould willingly have avoided, if the necefiity of the cafe had not rabfolutely called for them. Some of their, moft expert fwimmers were offer" day difcovered under the fhips, drawing out the filling nails of the fheathing, which they performed very dexteroufly by means of a fhort flick, with a flint fto|fe fixed in the end of it. To put a flop to this practice, which endangered the very exiftence of the veffels, we at firft fired fmall.fhot at the offenders ; but they eafily got out of our reach by diving under the fhip's bottom. It was therefore found meceilary to make an example, by flogging one of them on board the Difcovery. About this time, a large party of gentlemen, from both fhips, fet out on an excurfion into the interior parts of the country, wi$| a view of examining its natural productions. An account of this journey will be given in a fubfe- ■quent part of our narrative. It is, therefore, only neceflary at prefent to obferve, that it afforded Kaoo a frefh opportunity of fhewing his attention and generality. For as foon as he was informed of their departure, he fent a large fupply of provifions after them, together with orders, that the inhabitants of the country through which they were to pafs, fhould give ihem every affiftance in their power. And, to complete the delicacy and difintereftednefs of his conduct, A VOYAGE TO conduct, even the people he employed could not be prevailed on to accept the fmalleft prefent. After remaining out fix days, our Officers returned, withoi^, having being able to penetrate above, twenty miles into the ifland ; partly from want of proper guides, and partly from §|§ impracticability of the country. head of the Refolution's rudder being found exceedingly -|haken, and moft of the pintles either lofe or broken, it was unhung, and fent on fhore, on the 27th in the moralise undergo a thorough repair. At the time, the carpenters were fent into the country, under conduct of fome of Kaoo's peo- to cut planks for the head rail work, which was alfo entirely decayed and rotten. On the 28th, Captain Clerke, whofe ill health confined him, for the moft part, on board, paid Terreeoboo his firft vifit,- at his hut on fhore. he was received with the fame formalities as were obferved with Captain Cook ; and, on his coming away, though the vifit was quite unexpected, he received a prefent of thirty large hogs, and as much frait and roots as his crew could confume in a week. As. we had pot yet feen any thing of their fports or athletic exercifes, the natives, at the requeft of fome of our Officers, entertained us this evening with a boxing-match. Though thefe games were much inferior, as well in point of folemnity and magnificence, as in the fkill and powers of the combatants, to what we had feen exhibited at the Friendly Iflands; yet, as they differed in fome particulars, it may not be improper to give a fhort account of them. We found a vaft concourfe of people affembled on ;a level fpot of ground, at a little diftance from pur tents. A long fpace was left vacant in the mid ft of them, at the upper end of which fat the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. the judges, under three ftandards, from which hung flips of cloth of various colours, the fkins of two wild geefjk a few fmall birds, and bunches of feathers. When the fports were ready to begin, the fignal was given by the judges, and immediately two combatants , appeared. They came forward flowly, lifting up their feet very high behind, and drawing their hands along the foles. As they approached, they frequently eyed each other from head to foot, in a contemptuous manner, .calling feveral arch looks at the fpectators, ftraining their mufcles, and ufing a variety of affected geftures. Being advanced within reach of each other, they ftood with both arms held out ftraight before their faces, at which part all their blows were aimed. They ftruck, in what appeared to our eyes an awkward manner, with a full fwing of the arm ; made no attempt to parry, but eluded their adr- ■verfary's attack by an inclination of the body, or by retreating. The battle was quickly decided : for if either of them was knocked down, or even fell by accident, he was confidered as vanquished, and the victor expreffed his triumph by a variety of geftures, which ufually excited, as was intended, a loud laugh among the fpectators. He then waited for a fecond antagonift i and if again victorious, for a third, till he was, at laft, in his turn defeated, obferved in thefe combats is A Angular rule that whilft any two are preparing to fight, a third perfon may Itep in, and choofe either of them for- his anta- gonift, when the other is obliged to withdraw. Sometimes three or four followed each other in this manner, before the match was fettled. When the combat proved longer than ufual, or appeared too unequal, one of the chiefs generally flepped in, and ended it by putting a ftick feetween the combatants. The fame good humour *3 1779- January-. *4> A VOYAGE TO *779- mour was preferved throughout, which we be- c,—"!r,^'. f°re fo much admired in the Friendly Iflanders. As thefe games were given at our defire, we found it was uriiverially expected, that we fhould have borne our part in them ; but our people, though much preffed by the natives, turned a deaf ear to their challenge, remembering full well the blows they got at the Friendly Iflands. This day died William Watman, a feaman of the gunner's crew; an event which I mention the more particularly, as death had hitherto been very rare amongft us. He was an old man, and much reflected on account of his attachment to Captain Cook. Pie had formerly ferved as a marine twenty-one years; after which he entered as a feaman on board the Refolution in 1772, and ferved with Captain Cook in his voyage toward the South Pole. At their return, he was admitted into Greenwich hof~ pital, through the Captain's intereft, at the fame time with himfelf; and being refolved to follow throughout the fortunes of his benefactor, he alfo quitted it along with him, on his being appointed to the command of the prefent expedition. During the voyage, hf^-had frequently been fubject to flight fevers, and was a convalefcent when we came into the bay, where being fent on fhore for a few days, he conceived himfelf perfectly recovered, and, at his own defire, returned on board ; but the day following, he had a paralytic ftroke, which in two days more carried him off. At the requeft of the king <$$■* the ifland, he was buried on the Morai, and the ceremony was performed with as much folemnity as our fituation permitted. Old Kaoo and*his brethren were fpectators, and preferved the moft pro- whiift the fervice was found filence and attention, tmmm THE PACIFIC OCEAN. *5 was reading. When we began to fill up the grave, 1779. they approached it with great reverence, threw in February. a dead pig, fome cocoa-nuts, and plantains; and, t,""v~l,J for three nights afterward, they furrounded it, facrificing hogs, and performing their ufual ceremonies of hymns and prayers, which continued till day-break. At the head of the grave, we erected a poft, and nailed upon it a fquare piece of board, on which was infcribed the name of the deceafed, his age, and the day of his death. This they promifed not to remove ; and we have no doubt, but that it will be fuffered to remain, as long as the frail materials, of which it is made, will permit. The fhips being in great want of fuel, the Captain defired me, on theyad of February, to Tuefday treat with the priefts, for the purchafe of the 2. rail, that furrounded the top of the Morai. I muft confefs, I had, at firft, fome doubt about the decency of this propofal, and was apprehenfive, that even the bare mention offft might be confidered, by them, as a piece of fhocking impiety. In this, however, I found myfelf miftaken. Not the fmalleft furprigp was expreffed at the application, and the wood was readily given, even without ftipulating for any thing in return. Whilft the failors were taking it away, I obferved one of them carrying off a carved image-, and, on further inquiry, I found, that they had conveyed to the boats the whole gfe femicircle. Though this was done in the prefence of the natives, who had not fhewn any mark of refentment at it, but had even affifted them in the removal, I thought it proper to fpeak to Kaoo, on the fubject; who appeared very indifferent about the matter, and only defired, t See defcription of the Memh m tne preceding Chapter. that &6 A VOYAGE TO 1779. that we would reftore the centre image, I have February, mentioned before, which he carried into one of the prieft's houfes. Terreeoboo, and his Chiefs, had,^ for fome -days paft, been very inquifitive about the time of our departure. This circumftance had excited in me a great curiofity to know, what opinion this people had formed of us, and what were their ideas refpecting the caufe and objects of our voyage. I took fome pains to fatisfy myfelf on thefe points f but could never learn any thing farther, than that they imagined we came from fome country where provifions had failed ; and that our vifit to them was merely for the purpofe of filling our bellies. Indeed, the meagre appearance of fome of our crew, the hearty appetites with which we fat down to their frefh provifions, and our great anxiety to pur- chafe, af!3 carry off, as much as we were able, led them, naturally enough, to fuch a conclu- lion. To thefe may be added, a cirumilance which puzzled them exceedingly, our having no women with us; together with our quiet conduct, and unwarlike appearance. It was ridiculous enough to fee them ftroking the fides, and patting the bellies, of the failors (who were certainly much improved in the fleeknefs of their looks, during our fhort flay in the ifland-^'and telling them, partly by figns, and partly by words, that it was time for them to go ; but if they would come again the next bread-fruit feafon, they fhould be better able to fupply their wants. We had now been fixteen days in the bay ; and if our enormous confumption of hogs and vegetables be confidered, it need not be wondered, that they fhould with to fee us take our leave. It is very probable, however, that Terreeoboo had no other view, in his inquiries, at prefent, than a defire of making fufficient preparation THE P A C I preparation for difmiffii OCEAN; 27 lg us with prefeafts, fuit- '779- r j 1 • j r • u i,~ Jt1 ebruarv. able to the refpect and kindnels with which he , had received us. For, on our telling him we fhould l<g$?.e the iflanc die next day but one, we obferved, that a fort of proclamation was immediately made, through the villages, to require the people to bring in their hogs, and vegetables, for the king to prefent to the Orono, on his departure. We were this day much diverted, at the beach, by the buffooneries of one of the natives. He held in his hand an inftrument, of the fort defcribed in the laft volume f -, fome bits of fea- weed were tied round his neck ; and round each leg, a piece of ftrong netting, about nine inches deep, on which a great number of dogs' teeth were loofely faftened, in rows. His ftyle of dancing was entirely burlefque, and accompanied with ftrange grimaces, and pantomimical diiior- tions of the face ; which though at times inex- preflibly ridiculous, yet, on the whole was without much meaning, or expreffion. Mr. Webber thought it worth his while to make a drawing of this perfon, as exhibiting a tolerable fpe- cimen of the natives; the manner in which the maro is tied ; the figure of the inftrument before mentioned, and of the ornaments round the legs, which, at other times, we alfo faw ufed by their dancers. In • the evening, we were again entertained with wreftling and boxing matches; and we difplayed, in return, the few fireworks we had left. Nothing could be better calculated to excite the admiration of thefe iflanders, and to imprefs them with an idea of our great fuperiority, than an exhibition of this kind. Captain Cook has already defcribed the extraordinary effects of that which was made at Hapaee; and f See Vol. ii. p. 236. though A VOYAGE TO 1779- February Wednef. though the prefent was, in every refpect, infinitely inferior, yet the aftonifhment of the iSa^ $xes was not lefs. I have before mentioned, that the carpenters, from both fhips, had been fent up the country to cut planks, for the head rail-work of the Refolution. This was the third day fince their departure; and having received no intelligence from them, we began to be very anxious for their fafety. We were communicating our apprehenfions to old Kaoo, who appeared as much concerned as ourfelves, and were concerting meafures with him, for fending after them, when they arrived all fafe. They had been obliged to go farther into the country than was expected, before they met with trees fit for their purpofe ; and it was this circumftance, together with the badnefs of the roads, and the difficulty of bringing back the timber, which had detained them fo long. They fpoke in high terms of their guides, who both fupplied them with provifions, and guarded theti? tools with the utmoft fidelity. The next day, being fixed for our departure, Terreeoboo invited Captain Cook and myfelf to attend him, on the 3d, to the place, where Kaoo refided. On our arrival, we found the ground covered with parcels of cloth ; a vaft quantity of red and yellow^feathers, tied to the fibres of cocoa-nut hulks ; and a great number of hatchets, and other pieces of iron-ware, that had been got in barter from us. At a little diftance from thefe, lay an immenfe quanjfty of vegetables, of every kind, and near them was a large herd of hogs. At firfl, we imagined the whole to be intended as a prefect for us, till Kaireekeea informed me, that it was a gift, or tribute, from the people king; and, accordingly, feated, they brought all of that ^lftrict to the as foon as we were the bundles, and laid them THE PACIFIC OCEAN. i9 them feverally at Terreeoboo's feet; fpreading 1779. out the cloth, and difplaying the feathers, and February.. iron-ware, before him. The king feemed much ' " pleafed with this mark of their duty ; and having felected about a third part of the iron-ware, the fame proportion of feathers, and a few pieces of cloth, thefe were fet afide, by themfelves ; aSd the remainder of the cloth, together with all the hogs and vegetables, were afterward prefented to Captain Cook, and myfelf. We were aftonifhed at the value and magnitude of this prefent, which far exceeded every thing of the kind we had feen, either at the Friendly or Society Iflands. Boats were immediately fent, to carry them on board ; the large hogs were picked out, to be falted for fea-ftore; and upwards of thirty fmaller pigs, and the vegetables, were divided between the two crews. The fame day, we quitted the Morai, and got the tents and aftronomical inftruments on board. The charm of the taboo was now removed ; and we had no fooner left the place, than the natives rufhed in, and fearched eagerly about, in expectation of finding fomething of value, that we might have left behind. As I happened to remain the laft on fhore, and waited for the return of the boat, feveral came crowding about me, and having made me fit down by them, began to lament our feparation. It was, indeed, not without difficulty, I was able to quit them. And here, I hope I may be permitted to relate a trifling occurrence, in which I was principally concerned. Having had the command of the party on fhore, during the whole time we were in the bay, I had an opportunity of becoming better acquainted with the natives, and of being better known to them, than thofe whofe duty required them to be generally on board. As I had every reafon to be fatisfied with 30 A VOYAGE T 1779- with their kindnefs, in general, fo I cannot too February 0ften> nor too particularly, mention the un- L '~ bounded and conftant friendfhip of their priefts. On my part, I fpared no endeavours to conciliate their affections, and gain their efteem j and I had the good fortune to fucceed fo far, that, when the time of our departure was made known, I was ftrongly folicited to remain behind, not without offers of the moft flattering kind. When I excufed myfelf, by faying, that Captain Cook would not give his confent, they pro- pofed, that I fhould retire into the mountains; where, they faid, they would conceal me, till aftervthe departure of the fhips; and on my farther affuring them, that the Captajp would not leave the bay without me, Terreeoboo and Kaoo waited upon Captain Cook, whofe fon they fuppofed I was, with a formal requeft, that 1 might be left behind. The Captain, to avoid giving a pofitive refufal, to an offer fo kindly intended, told them, that he could not part with me, at that time, but that he fhould return to the ifland next year, and would then endeavour to fettle the matter to their fatisfaction. Thurf. 4. Early in the morning of the 4th, we unmoored, and failed out of the bay, with the Difcovery in company, and were followed by a great number of canoes. Captain Cook's defign was to finifh the furvey of Owhyhee, before he vifited the other iflands, in hopes of meeting with a road better fheltered, than the bay we had juft' j left; and in cafe of not fucceeding here, he purpofed to take a view of the South Eaft part of Mowee, where the natives informed us we fhould find an excellent harbour. Friday 5. We had calm weather all this and the following day, which made our progrefs to the Northward very flow. We were accompanied by a great number of the natives in their canoes; and T H PACIFIC OCEAN. 5* and Terreeoboo gave a frefh proof of his friend- 1779. fhip to Captain Cook, by a large prefent of hogs, February: and vegetables, that was fent after him. •—-v—*. In the night of the 5th, having a ligfet breeze off the land, we made fome way to the North- - , ward ; and in the morning of the 6th, having 5^ paffed the Wefternmoft point of the ifland, we found ourfelves abreaft of a deep bay, called by the natives Toe-yah-yah. We had great hopes, that this bay would furnifh us with a fafe and commodious harbour, as we faw, to the North Eaft, feveral fine ftreams of water; and the whole had the appearance of being well fheltered„ Thefe obfervations agreeing with the accounts t given us by Koah, who accompanied Captain 1 Cook, and had changed his name, out of com- I pliment to us, into Britannee,. the pinnace was. \ hoifled out, and the Mafter, with Britannee for his guide, was fent to examine the bay, whilft the fhips worked up after them. In the afternoon, the weather became gloomy, and the gulls of wind, that blew off the land, were fo violent, as to ''make it neceffary to take in all the fails, and bring to, under the mizen flay-fail. All the canoes left us, at the beginning of the gale; and Mr. Bligh, on his return, had the fatisfaction of faving an old woman, and two men, whofe canoe had been overfet by the violence of the wind, as they were endeavouring to gain the fhore. Befides thefe dif- treffed people, we had a great many women on board, whom the natives had left behind, in their hurry to fhift for themfelves. The Mafter reported to Captain Cook, that he had landed at the only village he faw, on the North fide of the bay, where he was directed to fome wells of water ; but found, they would by 32 A VOYAGE TO T779- by no means anfwer our purpofe ; that he after- February. war#proceeded farther into the bay, whieli runs '""v""—' inland to a great depth, and ftretches toward the foot of a very confpicuous high mountain, fituated on the North Weft end of the ifland ; but that inftead of meeting with fafe anchorage, as Britannee had taught him to expect, he found the fhores low and rocky, and a flat bed of coral rocks running along the Coaft, and extending upward of a mile from the land ; on the out- fide of which, the depth of water was twenty fathoms, over a fandy bottom ; and that^ifi> the mean time, Britannee had contrived to H|kv away, being afraid of returning, as we imagined, becaufe his information had not proved true and fuccefsful. In the evening, the weather being more moderate, we again made fail; but about midnight it blew fo violently, as to fplit both the fore and Sunday 7. rnain topfails. On the morning of the 7th, we bent frefh fails, and had fair weather, and a light breeze. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 200 1' North, the Weft point of the ifland bearing South, 70 Eaft, and the North Weft point North, 3 8° Eaft. As we were, at this time, four or five leagues from the fhore, and the weather very unfettled, none of the canoes would venture out, fo that our guefts were obliged to remain with us, much indeed to their diffatisfaction; for they were all fea-fick, and many of them had left young children behind them. In the afternoon, though the weather was ftill fqually, we ftood in for the land, and being about three leagues from it, we faw a canoe, with two men paddling toward us, which we immediately conjectured had been driven off the fhore, by the late boifterous weather; and therefore flopped the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. the fhip's Hvay, in order to take them in. Thefe poor wretches were fo entirely exhaufted with fatigue, that had not one of the natives on board, obferving thet¥'%eaknefs, jumped into the canoe to their affiftance, they would fcarcely have been able to fallen it ^b the rope we hid thrown out for that purpofe. It was with difficulty we got them up We fhip's fide, together with a cfKid, about four years old, wtpch they had lafhed under me thwarts of the canoe, where ft had lain with only its heB§ above water. They told us, they had left the fhore the morning before, and had been, from that time, without food or water. The ufual precautions were taken in giving them victuals, and the child being committed to the care of one of the women, we found them all next morning perfectly recovered. At midnight, a gale of wind came on, wnten obliged us to double reef the toplf^ils, and get down the top-gallant yards. On the 8th, at day-break, wfelSbtind, that the fofemail Hail again given way, the fifhes, Wriicrl vfrere jffft on the head, in King George's or Nod^& SbWld. on the coaft of America, being fpVrjtig, and the parts fo very defera^e, sts to make it abfolutely rieceSary to replace them, an9^ of courfe, to unftep the mail. In this diffifculfy, Captain Cook was for frjpfe time in doubt, whether he fhould run the chance of meefrng with a h&r£- hour in the iflands to leeward, or return to Karakakooa. That bay was not fo remarkably commodious, in any refpect, but fhat a better might proSrfbly be expected, both for tUfe purpofe of repairing the mafftsj a¥id for procuring refrefh- ments, of ^jfoich, it was imagined, that thS neighbourhood of Karakakooa KacF been already pretty W<ea drained, confidered as too 'OL HI great a On the other' fend, rifk to leave a D it was place, that 1779- February. Monday 8. 34 i7T9- February. A V O Y G E TO Tuefday Wednef. 10. Thurfd. that was tolerably fheltered, and which, once left, could not be regained, for the mere hopes of meeting with a better; the faikjre of which might perhaps have left us without refource. We therefore continued ftanding on toward the land, in order to give the natives an opportunity of releafing their friends on board from their confinement; and, at noon, being within a mile of the fhore, a few canoes came off to us, but fo crowded with people, that there was not room in them for any of our guefts; we therefore hoifted out the pinnace to carry them on fhore; and the Mafter, who went with them, had directions to examine the South coafts of the bay for water; but returned without finding any. The winds being variable, and a current fet- ting ilrong to the Northward, we made but little progrefs in our rehjrn ; and at eight o'clock in the evening of the prla^ it began to blow very hard from the South Eaft, which obliged us to clofe reef the topfails; and at two in the morning of the 10th, in a heavy fquall, we found ourfelves clofe in with the breakers, that lie to the Northward of the Weft point of Owhyhee. We had juft room to haul off, and avoid them, and fired feveral guns to apprize the Difcovery of the danger. In the forenoon, the weather was more moderate, and a few canoes came off to us, from which we learnt, that the late ftorms had done much mifchief; and that feveral large canoes had been loft. During the remainder of the day, we kept beating to windward ; and, before night, we were within a mile of the bay ; but not choofing to run on, while it was dark, we ftood off and on till day-light next morning, when we dropt anchor nearly in the fame place as before. CHAP. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 35 CHAP. III. Sufpicious Behaviour of the Natives, on our Return to Karakakooa Bay.—Theft on board the Difcovery, and its Confequences.—The Pinnace attacked, and the Crew obliged to quit her.—Captain Cook's Obfervations on the Occafion.—Attempt at the Obfervatory.—The Cutter of the Difcovery ftolen. Meafures taken by Captain Cook for its Recovery.—Goes on Shore, to invite the King on board.—The King being Jlopped by his Wife, and the Chiefs, a Contejl arifes.—■ News arrives of one of the Chiefs being killed, by one of our People.—Ferment on this Occafion.—One of the Chiefs threatens Captain Cook, and is fhot by him.—General Attack by the Natives,-—-Death of Captain Cook.—Account of the Captain's Services, and a Sketch of his Cha- racler. 11. Friday 12. WE were employed the whole of the nth, 1779. and part of the 12th, in getting out the February foremaft, and fending it, with the carpenters, ^fT^Tf on fhore. Befides the damage which the head of the mail had fuftained, we found the heel exceedingly rotten, having a large hole up the middle of it, capable of holding four or five cocoa nuts. It was not, however, thought neceffary to fhorten it; and fortunately, the logs of red toa-wood, which had been cut at Eimeo, for anchor-flocks, were found fit to replace the fprung parts of the fifties. As thefe repairs were likely to take up feveral days, Mr. Bayly and D 2 myfelf, 36 »7-79- February. A VOYAGE TO myfelf, got the aftronomical apparatus on IhoreV and pitched our tents on the Morai; having with us a guard of a corporal and fix marines. We renewed our friendly correfpondence with the priefts, who, for the greater fecurity of the workmen, and their tools, tabooed the place where the mail lay, flicking their wands round it, as before. The failmakers were alfo fent on fhore, to repair the damages which had taken place in their department, during the late gales. They were lodged in a houfe adjoining to the Morai, that was lent us by the priefts. Such were our arrangements on fliore. I fhall now proceed to the account of thofe other tranfac- tions with the natives, which led, by degrees, to the fatal cataftrophe of the 14th. Upon coming to anchor, we were furprized to find our reception very different from what it had been on our firft arrival ; no fhouts, no buftle, no confufion -, but a folitary bay, with only here and there a canoe flealing clofe along the fhore. The impulfe of curiofity, which had before operated to fo great a degree, might now indeed be fuppofed to have ceafed ; but the hofpitable treatment we had invariably met with,' and the friendly footing on which we parted, gave us fome reafon to expect, that they would again have flocked about us with great joy, on our return. We were forming various conjectures, upon the occafion of this extraordinary appearance, when our anxiety was at length relieved by the return of a boat, which had been fent on fhore, and brought us word, that Terreeoboo was abfent, and had left the bay under' the taboo. Though this account appeared very fatisfactory to moft of us; yet others were of opinion, or rather, perhaps, have been led, by fubfequent events, to imagine, that there was forhething, at SB THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 37 at this time, very fufpicious in the behaviour of 1779- the natives -, and that the interdiction of all in- February. tercourfe with us, on pretence of the king's abfence, was only to give him time to confult with his Chiefs, in what manner it might be proper to treat us. Whether thefe fufpicions were well founded, or the account given by the natives was the truth, we were never able to afcertain. For though it is not improbable, that our fudden return, for which they could fee no apparent caufe, and the neceffity of which we afterward found it very difficult to make them comprehend, might occafion fome alarm; yet the unfufpicious conduct of Terreeoboo, who, on his fuppofed arrival, the next morning, came immediately to vifit Captain Cook, and the con- fequent return of the natives to their former friendly intercourfe with us, are ftrong proofs, that they neither meant, nor apprehended any change of conduct. In fupport of this opinion, I may add the account of another accident, precifely of the fame kind, which happened to us, on our firft vifit, the day before the arrival of the king. A native had fold a hog on board the Refolution, and taken the price agreed on, when Pareea, palling by, advifed the man not to part with the hog, without an advanced price. For this, he was fharply fpoken to, and pufhed away; and the taboo being foon after laid on the bay, we had at firft no doubt, but that it was in confequence of the offence given to the Chief. Both thefe accidents ferve to fhew, how very difficult it is to draw any certain conclufion from the actions of people, with whofe cuftoms, as well as language, we are fo imperfectly acquainted ; at the fame, fome idea may be formed from them, of the difficulties, at the firft yiew, perhaps, not very apparent, which thofe have 3» A VOYAGE TO 1 : I 1779. have to encounter, who, in all their tranfaclions February. whh thefe ftrangers, have to fleer their courfe w-y—' ^j-jjidfj- c0 mUch uncertainty, where a trifling error may be attended with even the moft fatal confequences. However true or falfe our con- S^mrday jectures may be, things went on in their ufual *3- quiet courfe, till the afternoon of the 13th. Toward the evening of that day, the officer who commanded the watering-party of the Difcovery, came to inform me, that feveral Chiefs had affembled at the well near the beach, driving "away the natives, whom he had hired to affift the failors in rolling down the cafks to the fhore. He told me, at the fame time, that he thought their behaviour extremely fufpicious, and that they meant to give him fome farther difturbance. At his requeft, therefore, I fent a marine along with him, but fuffered him to take only his fide arms. In a fhort time, the officer returned, and on his acquainting me, that the iflanders had armed themfelves with ftones and were growing very tumultuous, I went myfelf to the fpot, attended by a marine, with his mufquet. Seeing us approach,- they threw away their ftones, and, on my fpeaking to fome of the Chiefs, the mob were driven away, and thofe who chofe it, were fuffered to affift in filling the cafks. Having left things quiet here, I went to meet Captain Cook, whom I faw coming on fhore, in the pinnace. I related to him what had juft paffed; and he ordered me, in cafe of their beginning to throw ftones, or behave infolently, immediately to fire a ball at the offenders. I accordingly gave orders to the corporal, to have the pieces of the fentinels loaded with ball, inftead of fmall fhot. Soon after our return to the tents, we were alarmed by a continued fire of mufquets, from the Difcovery, which we obferved to be directed fk% a canoe, that we faw paddling toward the fhore,. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 3? fhore, in great hafte, purfued by one of our S779- fmall boats. We immediately concluded, that February the firing was in confequence of fome theft, and Captain Cook ordered me to follow him with a marine armed, and to endeavour to feize the people, as they came on fhore. Accordingly we ran toward the place where we fuppofed the canoe would land, but were too late; the peo- pie having quitted it, -and made their efcape into the country before our arrival. We were at this time ignorant, that the goods had been already reftored ; and as we thought it probable, from the circumftances we had at firft obferved, that they might be of importance, were unwilling to relinquifh our hopes of recovering them. Having therefore inquired of the natives, which way the people had fled, v/e followed them, till it was near dark, when judging ourfelves to be about three miles from the tents, and fufpecting, that the natives, who frequently encouraged us in the purfuit, were amufing us with falfe information, we thought it in vain to continue our fearch any longer, and returned to the beach. During our abfence, a difference, of a more .ferious and unpleafant nature, had happened. The officer, who had been fent in the fmall boat, and was returning on board, with the goods which had been reftored, obferving Captain Cook and me engaged in the purfuit of the offenders, thought it his duty to feize the canoe, which was left drawn up on the fhore. Unfortunately, this canoe belonged to Pareea, who arriving, at the fame moment, from on board the Difcovery, claimed his property, with many protef- tations of his innocence. The officer refufing to give it up, and being joined by the crew of the jpinnace, which was waiting for Captain Cook, a fcuffie 4° t-79- February. A VOYAGE TO a fcuffle enfued, in which Pareea was knocked down, by a violent blow on the head, with an oar. The natives, who were collected about the fpot, and had hitherto been peaceable fpec- tators, immediately attacked our people with fuch a fhower of ftones, as forced them to retreat, with great precipitation, and fwim off to a rock, at fome diftance from the fhore. The pinnace was immediately ranfacked by the iflanders ; ar.d, but for the timely inteipofition of Pareea, who feemed to have recovered from the blow, and forgot it at the fame inftant, would foon have been entirely demolifhcd. Having driven away the crowd, he made figns to our people, that they might come and take poffeffion of the pinnace, and that he would endeavour to get back the things which had been taken out of it. After their departure, he followed them in his canoe, with a midfhipman's cap, and fome other trifling articles of the plunder, and, with much apparent concern at what had happened, afked, if the Orono would kill him, and whether he would permit him to come on board the next day ? On being affined, that he fhould be well received, he joined nofes (as their cuftom is) with the officers, in token of friendfhip, and paddled over to the village of Kowrowa. When Captain Cook was informed of what had paffed, he expreffed much uneafinefs at it, and as we were returning on board, " I am *' afraid," faid he, " that thefe people will oblige " me to ufe fome violent meafures; for," he added, " they mufl not be left to imagine, that " they have gained an advantage over us." However, as it was too late to take any fleps this evening, he contented himfelf with giving orders, that every man and woman on board fhould be immediately turned out of the fhip. As foon as this k THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 4i this order was executed, 1 returned on fhore; 1779. and our former confidence in the natives being February. now much abated, by the events of the day, I »'" ' polled a double guard on the Morai, with orders to call me, if they faw any men lurking about the beach. At about eleven o'clock, five iflanders were obferved creeping round the bottom of the Morai; they feemed very cautious in approaching us, and, at laft, finding themfelves difcovered, retired out of fight. About midnight, one of them venturing up clofe to the obfervatory, the fentinel fired over him ; on which the men fled, and we paffed the remainder of the night without farther diftur- bance. Next morning, at day-light, I went on boardSunday the Refolution for the time-keeper, and, in my >4- way, was hailed by the Difcovery, and informed, that their cutter had been ftolen, during the night, from the buoy where it was moored. When I arrived on board, I found the marines arming, and Captain Cook loading his double- barrelled gun. Whilft I was relating to him what had happened to us in the night, he interrupted me, with fome eagernefs, and acquainted me with the lofs of the Difcovery's cutter, and with the preparations he was making for its recovery. It had been his ufual practice, whenever any thing of confequence was loft, at any of the iflands in this ocean, to get the king, or fome of the principal Erees, on board, and to keep them as hoflages, till it was reftored. This method, which had been always attended with fuccefs, he meant to purfue on the prefent occafion ; and, at the fame time, had given orders to flop all the canoes that fhould attempt to leave the bay, with an intention of feizing and deflroying them, if he could not recover the cutter by peaceable means. Accordingly, the 4* '779- Februa ii A VOYAGE TO the boats of both fhips, well manned and armed, Tft were flationed acrofs the bay; and, before I left the fhip, fome great guns had been fired at two large canoes, that were attempting to make their efcape. It was between feven and eight o'clock when we quitted the fhip together; Captain Cook in the pinnace, having Mr. Phillips, and nine marines with him; and myfelf in the fmall boat. The laft orders I received from him were, to quiet the minds of the natives, on our fide of the bay, by affuring them, they fhould not be hurt; to keep my people together; and to be on my guard. We then parted; the Captain went toward Kowrowa, where the king refided ; and I proceeded to the beach. My firft care, on going afhore, was to give ftrict orders to the marines to remain within their tent, to load their pieces with ball, and not to quit their arms. Afterward I took a walk to the huts of old Kaoo, and the priefts, and explained to them, as well as I could, the object of thehoftile preparations, which had exceedingly alarmed them. I found, that they had already heard of the cutter's being iiolen, and I affiured them, that though Captain Cook was refolved to recover it, and to punifh the authors of the theft, yet that they, and the people of the village on our fide, need not be under the fmallefl apprehenfion of fuffering any evil from us. I defired the priefts to explain this to the people, and to tell them not to be alarmed, but to continue peaceable and quiet. Kaoo afked me, with great ear neft nets, if Terreeoboo was to be hurt ? I allured him, he was not; and both he and the reft of his brethren feemed much fatisfied with this affurance. In the mean time, Captain Cook, having called off the launch, which was flationed at the North point of the bay, and taken it along with him. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. him, proceeded to Kowrowa, and landed the Lieutenant and nine marines. He immediately marched into the village, where he was received with the ufual marks of refpect; the people proftrating themfelves before him, and bringing their accuftomed offerings of fmall hogs. Finding that there was no fufpicion of his defign, his next flep was, to inquire for Terreeoboo, and the two boys, his fons, who had been his conflant guefls on board the Refolution. In a fhort time, the boys returned along with the natives, who had been fent in fearch of them, and immediately led Captain Cook to the houfe where the king had flept. They found the old man juft awoke from fleep; and after a fhort converfation about the lofs of the cutter, from which Captain Cook was convinced that he was in no wife privy to it, he invited him to return in the boat, and fpend the day on board the Refolution. To this propofal the king readily confented, and immediately got up to accompany him. Things were in this profperous train, the two boys being already in the pinnace, and the reft of the party having advanced near the water- fide, when an elderly woman called Kanee- kabareea, the mother of the boys, and one of the king's favourite wives, came after him, and with many tears, and entreaties, befought him not to go on board. At the fame time, two Chiefs, who came along with her, laid hold of him, and infilling, that he fhould go no farther, forced him to fit down. The natives, who were collecting in prodigious numbers along the fhore, and had probably been alarmed by the firing of the great guns, and the appearances of hof- tility in the bay, began to throng round Captain Cook and their king. In this fituation, the Lieutenant of marines, 'obferving that his men were 43 with _ »779- February. 44 A VOYAGE TO 1779" were huddled clofe together in the crowd, and ?e~rH!JT thus incapable of ufing their arms, if any occafion fhould require it, propofed to the Captain, to draw them up along the rocks, clofe to the water's edge; and the crowd readily making way for them to pafs, they were drawn up in a line, at the diftance of about thirty yards from the place where the king was fitting. All this time, the old king remained on the ground, with the ftrongeft marks of terror and dejection in his countenance ; Captain Cook, not willing to abandon the object for which he had come on fhore, continuing to urge him, in the moft preffing manner, to proceed; whilft, on the other hand, whenever the king appeared inclined to follow him, the Chiefs, who ftood round him interpofed at firft with prayers and entreaties, but afterward, having recourfe to force and violence, infifted on his flaying where he was. Captain Cook therefore finding, that the alarm had fpread too generally, and that it was in vain to think any longer of getting him off, without bloodfhed, at laft gave up the point; obferving to Mr. Phillips, that it would be im- poffible to compel him to go on board, without the rifle of killing a great number of the inhabitants. Though the enterprize, which had carried Captain Cook on fhore had now failed, and was abandoned, yet his perfon did not appear to have been in the leaft danger, till an accident happened, which gave a fatal turn to the affair. The boats, which had been flationed acrofs the bay, having fired at fome canoes, that were attempting to get out, unfortunately had killed a Chief of the firft rank. The news of his death arrived at the village where Captain Cook was, juft as he had left the king, and was walking flowly toward the fhore, The ferment it occa- fioned THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 45 fioned was very confpicuous; the women and 1779. children were immediately fent off; and the February, men put Bn their war-mats, and armed themfelves with fpears and ftones. One of the natives, having in his hands a ftone, and a long iron fpike (which they call a pahood) came up to the Captain, flourifhing his weapon, by way of defiance, and threatening to throw the ftone. The Captain defired him to defift ; but the man perfifting in his infolence, he was at length provoked to fire a load of fmall-fhot. The man having his mat on, which the fhot were not able to penetrate, this had no ©ther effect than to irritate and encourage them. Several ftones were thrown at the marines; and one of the Erees attempted to flab Mr. Phillips with his pahooa ; but failed in the attempt, and received from him a blow with the but end of his mufquet. Captain Cook now fired his fecond barrel, loaded with ball, and killed one of the foremoft of the ^l|riyes. A general attack with ftones immediately followed, which was anfwered by a dif- charge of mufquetry from the marines, and the people in the boats. The iflanders, contrary to the expectations of every one, ftood the fire with great firmnefs ; arid before the marines had time to reload, they broke in upon them with dreadful fhouts and yells. What followed was a fcene of the utmoft horror and confufion. Four of the marines 'were cut off amongft the rocks in their retreat, and fell a faerifice to the fury of the enemy; three more were dan- geroufly wounded ; and the Lieutenant, who had received a flab between the fhoulders with a pahooa, having fortunately referved his fire, fhot the man who had wounded him juft as he was going to repeat his blow- Our unfortunate Commander, the laft time he was feen diftinctly, was ftanding at the water's edge, and calling out to A V O Y AG E T O 1779. to the boats to ceafe firing, and to pull in. If it February. De true, as fome of thofe who wereprefent have imagined, that the marines and boat-men had fired without his orders, and that he was defirous of preventing any further bloodfhed, it is not improbable, that his humanity, on this occafion, proved fatal to him. For it was remarked, that whilft he faced the natives, none of them had offered him any violence but that having turned about, to give his orders to the boats, he was ftabbed in the back, and fell with his face into the water. On feeing llm fall, the iflanders fet up a great fhout, and his body was immediately dragged on fhore, and furrounded by the enemy, who fnatching the dagger out of each other's hands, fhewed a favage eagernefs to have a fhare in his deftruction. Thus fell our great and excellent Commander ! After a life of fo much diftinguifhed and fuccefsful enterprize, his death, as far as regards himfelf, cannot be reckoned premature; fince he lived to finifh the great work for which he feems to have been defigned; and was rather removed from the enjoyment, than cut oflfefrom the acquifition, of glory. How fincerely his lofs was felt and lamented, by thofe who had fo long found their general fecurity in his fkill and conduct, and every confolation, under their hard- fhips, in his tendernefs and humanity, it is neither neceffary nor poffible for me to defcribe; much lefs fhall I attempt to paint the horror with which we were ftruck, and the univerfal dejection and difmay, which followed fo dreadful and ■unexpected a calamity. The reader will not be difpleafed to turn from fo fad a fcene, to the contemplation of his character and virtues, whilft I am paying my laft tribute to the memory of a dear and honoured friend, in a fhort hiftory of his life, and public fervices. Captain THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Captain James Cook was born near Whitby, in Yorkfhire, in the year 1727 ; and, at an early Fe age, was put apprentice to a fhopkeeper in a neighbouring village. His natural inclination not having been confulted on this occafion, he foon quitted the counter from difguft, and bound himfelf, for nine years, to the mafter of a veffel in the coal trade. At the breaking out of the war in 1755, he entered into the king's fervice, on board the Eagle, at that time commanded by Captain Hamer, and afterward by Sir Hugh Pallifer, who foon difcovered his merit, and introduced him on the quarter-deck. Inthe year 17^8, we find him mafter of the jjorthumberland, the flag fhip of Lord Colville, v/ho had then the command of the .fquadrort flationed on the coaft of America. It was here, as I have often heard him fay, that, d uring a hard winter, he firft read Euclid, an dapplied himfelf to the ftudy of mathematics and aftronomy, without any other affiftance, than what a few books, and his own induftry afforded him* At the fame time, that he thus found means tc* cultivate and improve his mind, and to fupply the deficiencies of an early education, he was engaged in moft of the bufy and active fcenes of the war in America. At the fiege of Quebec, Sir Charles Saunders committed to his charge the execution of fervices, of the firft importance in the naval department. He piloted the boats to the attack of Montmorency ; conducted the embarkation to the Heights of Abraham ; examined the paffage, and laid buoys for the fecurity of the large fhips in proceeding up the river. The courage and addrefs with which he acquitted himfelf in thefe fervices, gained him the warm friendfhip of Sir Charles Saunders and Lord Colville, who continued to patronize him, d urine 47 779. bruarv. 1779- February A VOYAGE TO during the reft of their lives, with the greateft zeal and affection. At the conclufion of the war, he was appointed, through the recommendation of Lord Colville and Sir Hugh Pallifer, to furvey the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the coafts of Newfoundland. In this employment he continued till the year 1767, when he was fixed on by Sir Edward Hawke, to igpmmand an expedition to the South Seas; for the purpofe of obferving the tranfit of Venus, and pvofecuting difcoveries in that part of the globe. From this period, ascites fervices are too well known to require a recital here, fo his reputation has proportionably advanced to a height too great to be affected by my panegyric. Indeed, he appears to have been moft eminently and peculiarly qualified for this fpecies of enterprize. The earlieft habits of his life, the courfe of his fervices, and the conftant application of his mind, all confpired to fit him for it, and gave him a degree of profeflional knowledge, which can fall to the lot of very few. The conflitution of his body was robuft, inured to labour, and capable of undergoing the fevereft hardships. His ftomach bore, without difficulty, the coarfeft and moft ungrateful food. Indeed, temperance in him was fcarcely a virtue ; fo great was the indifference with which he fubmitted to every kind of felf-denial. The qualities of his mind were of the fame hardy, vigorous kind with thofe of his body. His un- derilanding was ftrong and perfpicacious. His judgment, in whatever related to the fervices he was engaged in, quick and fure. His de- figns were bold and manly ; and both in the conception, and in the mode of execution, bore evident marks of a great original genius. His courage was cool and determined, and accompanied with an admirable prefence of mind in the 1.-.1 "i THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 49 the moment of danger. His manners were J779- plain and unaffected. His temper might per- \^XI^ haps have been juflly blamed, as fubject to haf- tinefs and paffion, had not thefe been difarmed by a difpofition the moft benevolent and humane. Such were the outlines of Captain Cook's cha* racter; but its moft diftinguifhing feature was, that unremitting perfeverance in the purfuit of his object, which was not only fuperior to the oppofition of dangers, and the preffure of hard- fhips, but even exempt from the want of ordinary relaxation. During the long and tedious voyages in which he was engaged, his eagernefs and activity were never in the leaft abated. No incidental temptation could detain him for a moment ; even thofe intervals of recreation, which fometimes unavoidably occurred, and were looked for by us with a longing, that perfons, wllk-j have experienced the fatigues of fervice, will readily excufe, were fubmitted to by him with a certain impatience, whenever they could not be employed in making further provifion for the more effectual profecution of his defigns. It is not neceffary, here, to enumerate the inftances in which thefe qualities were difplayed, during the great and important enterprizes in which he was engaged. 1 fhall content myfelf with ftating the refult of thofe fervices, under the two principal heads to which they may be referred, thofe of geography and navigation, placing each in a feparate and diftinct point of view. Perhaps no fcience ever received greater additions from the labour of a fingle man, than geography has done from thofe of Captain Cook. In his firft voyage to the South Seas, he difco-, vered the Society Iflands ; determined the infu- laritv of New Zealand; difcovered the*ilraits Vol. III. E which 5a 1779. February A VOYAGE TO which feparate tifee two iflands, and are called after his name ; and made a complete furvey of both. He afterward explored the Eaftern coaft of New Holland, hitherto unknown ; an extent of twenty-feven degrees of latitude, or upward' of two thoufand miles. In his fecond expedition, he refolved the great problem, of a Southern continent; having tra- verfed that hemifphere between the latitudes of 400 and 70% in fuch a manner, as not to leave a poflibility of its exiftence, unlefs near the pole, and out of the reach of navigation. During this voyage, he difcovered New Caladonia, the largeft ifland in the Spttthern Pacific, except New Zealand; the ifland of Georgia; and an unknown coaft, which he named Sandwich Land, the thute of the Southern hemifphere -9 and having twice viAte^i the tropical feas, he fettled the fituations of fie old, and made feveral new difcoveries. But the voyage we are now relating, is dif- tinguifhed, above all the reft, by the extent and importai|fce of its difcoveries. Befides feveral fmaller iflands in the Southern Pacific, he difcovered, to the North of||he equinoctial line, the group called the Sandwich Iflands ; which, frorrf^their fituation and productions, bid fairer for becoming an object of cofjfcquence, in the fyftem of European navigation^ than any other difcovery;.: in the So^h Sea. He afterward explored what had hitherto remained unknown of the Weflefn coaft of America, from the latitude of 430 to 70° North, containing an extent of three thoufand five hundred miles; afcertained the proximrff: of the two great continents of Afia and America; paffed the ftraits between them, and furveyed the coaft, on each fide, to fuch a height of Northern latitude, as to demonstrate the impracticability of a paffage, in that hemifphere^ T'HE PACIFIC OCEAN. hemifphere, from the Atlantic into the Pacific , Ocean, either by an Eaftern or a Weftern courfe. 3 In fhort, if we except the fea of Amur, and the Japanefe Archipelago, which ftill remain imperfectly known to Europeans, he has completed the hydrography of the habitable globe. As a navigator, his fervices were not perhaps1 lefs fplendid; certainly not lefs important and meritorious. The method which he difcovered, and fo fuccefsfully purfued, of preferving the health of feamen, forms a new sera in navigation, and will tranfmit his name to future ages, amongft the friends and benefactors of mankind. Thofe who are coverfant in naval hiftory* need not be told, at how dear a rate the advantages, which have been fought.'. through the medium of long voyages at fea have always been purchafed. That dreadful diforder which is peculiar to this fervice, and whofe ravages have marked the tracks of difcoverers with circumftances almoft too fhocking to relate, mull, without exercifing an unwarrantable tyranny over the lives of our feamen, have proved an infuperable obllacle to the profecution of fuch enterprizes. It was referved for Captain Cook to fhew the world, by repeated trials, that voyages might be protracted to the unufuai length of three or^ even four years, in unknown regions, and under every change and rigour of climate, not only without affecting the health, but even without diminishing the probability of life, in the fmalleft degree. The method he purfued has been fully explained by himfelf in a paper which was read before the Royal Society, in the year 1776* ; and whatever improve- 51 1779. jbruary * Sir Godfrey Copley's gold medal was adjudged to him, on that occafion. E 2 ments 52 A VOYAGE TO 1779. ments the experience of the prefent voyage has February fuggefted, are mentioned in their proper places;. With refpect to his profeffional abilities, I fhall leave them to the judgment of thofe wha are beft acquainted with the nature of the fervices in which he was engaged. They will rea>- dily acknowledge, that to have conducted three expeditions of fd'much danger and difficulty, of fo unufual a length, and in fuch a variety of fituation, with uniform and invariable fuccefs, muft have required not only a thorough and accurate knowledge of his bufinefs, but a powerful and comprehenfive genius, fruitful in refources, and equally ready in the application of whatever the higher and inferior calls of the fervice required. Having given the moft faithful account I have been able to collect, both from my own obfer- vation,' and the relations of others, of the death of my ever honoured friend, and alfo of his character and fervices l I fhall now leave his memory to the gratitude and admiration of pofte- rity ; accepting, with a melancholy fatisfaction, the honour, which the lofs of him hath procured me, of feeing my name joined witB." nis; and of teftifying that affection and refpect for his memory, which, whilft he lived, it was no lefs my inclination, than my conftant ftudy, to fhew him* I ii C H A P. "■■ .ni'.'w THE PACIFIC OCEAN. SS CHAP. IV. TranfaEtiofis at Owhyhee, fubfequent to the Death vf. Captain Cook.—Gallant Behaviour of the Lieutenant of Marines.—Dangerous Situation of the Party at the Morai.—Bravery of one of the Natives. — Confultation refpecling future Meafures.—Demand of the Body of Captain Cook.'—Evafive and infidious Conducl of Koah, and the Chiefs.—Infolent Behaviour of the Natives.—Promotion of Officers.—Arrival of two Priefts with Part of the Body.—Extraordinary Behaviour of two Boys.—Burning of the Village of Kakooa.'— Unfortunate Deftrutlion of the Dwellings of the Priefts —Recovery of the Bones of Captain Cook.—Departure from Karakakooa Ray. '779- IT has been already related, that four of the marines, who attended Captain Cook, were February. killed by the iflanders on the fpot. The reft, **—v——■; with Mr. Phillips, their Lieutenant, threw them- Su*~<day felves into the water, and efcaped. under cover I4" of a fmart fire from the boats. On this occafion, a remarkable inftance of gallant behaviour, and of affection for his men, was fhewn by that officer. For he had fcarcely got into the boat, when, feeing one of the marines, who was a bad fwimmer, ft niggling in the water, and in dan- IgPihof being taken by the enemy, he immediately jumped into the fea to his affiftance, ifehough much wounded himfelf; and after receiving 54 N 1779. February, A V OYAGE TO ceiving a blow on the head from a ftone, which had nearly fent him to the bottom, he caught the man by the hair, and brought him fafe off, Our people continued for fome time to keep up a conftant fire from the boats (which, during the whole tranfaction, were not more than twenty yards from the land), in order to afford their unfortunate companions, if any of them fhould ftill remain alive, an opportunity of efcaping. Thefe efforts, feconded by a few guns, that were fired at the fame time, from the Refolution, having forced the natives at laft to retire, a fmall boat, manned by five of our young midfhipmen, pulled toward the fliore, where they faw the bodies, without any figns of life, lying on the ground; but judging it dangerous to attempt to bring them off, with fo fmall a force, and their ammunition being nearly expended, they returned to the fhips, leaving them in poffeffion of the iflanders, together with ten Hands of arms. As foon as the general confternation, which the news of this calamity occafioned throughout both crews, had a little fubfided, their attention Was called to our party at the Morai, where the mail and fails were on fhore, with a guard of only fix marines. It is impoflible for me to defcribe the emotions of my own mind, during the time thefe tranfactions had been carrying on, at the other fide of the bay. Being at the diftance only of a fhort mile from the village of Kowrowa, we could fee diftinctly an immenfe crowd collected on the fpot where Captain Cook had juft before landed. We heard the firing of the mufquetry, and could perceive -fome extraordinary buftle and agitation in the multitude. We afterward faw the natives flying, the boats retire from the fhore, and paifing and repaf- fing, in great ftillnefs, between the fhips. I muft confefss THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ss 1779- confefs, that my heart foon mifgave me. Where a life fo dear and valuable was concerned, it February was impoffible not to be alarmed by appearances' both new and threatening. But, befides this, I knew, that a long and uninterrupted courfe of fuccefs, in his tranfactions with ihe natives of thefe feas, had given the Captain a degree of confidence, that I was always fearful might, at fome unlucky moment, put him too much off his guard ; and I now faw all the dangers to which that confidence might lead, without receiving much confolation from confidering the experience that had given rife to it. My firft care, on hearing the mufquets fired, was, to affure the people, who were affembled in confiderable numbers, round the wall of our confecrated field, and feemed equally at a lofs with ourfelves how to account for what they had feen and heard, that they fhould not be molefted -, and that, at ail events, I was defi- rous of continuing on peaceable terms with them. We remained in this pofture, till the - boats had returned on board, when Captain Clerke, obferving, through his telefcope, that we were furrounded by the natives, and apprehending they meant to attack us, ordered two four pounders to be fired at them. Fortunately thefe guns, though well aimed, did no mifchief, and yet gave the natives a convincing proof of their power. One of .the halls broke a cocoa- nut tree in the middle, under which a party of them were fitting ; and the other fhivered a rock, that ftood in an exact line with them. As I had, juft before, given them the ftrongeft affurances of their fafety, I was exceedingly mortified at this act of hoftility ; and, to prevent a repetition of it, immediately difpatched a boat to acquaint Captain Clerke, that, at prefent, 56 A V O Y A G TO II 11 i"n§. fent, I was on the moft friendly terms with the February. nat'1Ves; and that, if occafion fhould hereafter arife for altering my conduct towariP them, I - would hoift a jack, as a fignal for him to afford us all the affiftance in his power. We expected the return of the boat with the utmoft impatience ; and after remaining a quarter of an hour, under the moft torturing anxiety and fufpence, our fears were at length confirmed, by the arrival of Mr. Bligh, with orders to ftrike the tents as quickly as poffible, and to fend the fails, that were repairing, on board. Juft at the fame moment, our friend Kaireekeea having alfo received intelligence of the death of Captain Cook, from a native, who had arrived from the other fide of the bay, came to me, with great forrow and dejection in his countenance, to inquire, if it was true ? Our fituation was, at this time, extremely critical and important. Not only our own lives, but the event of the expedition, and the return of at leaft one of the fhips, being involved in the fame common danger. We had the maft of the Refolution, and the gr^jteft part of our fails, on fhore, under the protection of only fix marines: their lofs would have been irreparable ; and though the natives had not as yet fhewn the fmalleft difpofition to moleft us, yet it was impoffible to anfwer for the alteration, which the news of the tranfaction at Kowrowa might produce. I therefore thought it prudent to diffemble my belief of the death of Captain Cook, and to defire Kaireekeea to difcourage fhe report; left either the fear of our refent- ment, or the fuccefsful example of their countrymen, might lead them tp feize the favourable opportunity, which at this time offered itfelf of giving us a fecond blow. At the fame time I advifed iSififcr1 THE PACIFIC OCEA 57 advifed him to bring old Kaoo, and the reft of priefts, into a large houfe that was clofe to the f Morai; partly out of regard to their fafety, in cafe it fhould have been found neceffary to proceed to extremities; and partly to have him near us, in order to make ufe of his authority with the people, if it could be inftrumental in pre-- ferving peace. Having placed the marines on the top of the Morai, which formed a ftrong and advantageous poft, and left the command with Mr. Bligh, giving him the moft pofitive directions to act entirely on the defenfive, I went on board the Difcovery, in order to reprefent to Captain Clerke the dangerous fituation of our affairs. As foon as I quitted the fpot, the natives began to annoy our people with ftones; and I had fcarcely reached the fhip, before I heard the firing of the marines. I therefore returned in- flantly on fhore, where I found things growing every moment more alarming. The natives were arming, and putting on their mats; and their numbers increafed very faft. I could alfo perceive feveral large bodies marching toward us, along the cliff which feparates the village of Kakooa from -the North fide of the bay, where the village of Kowrowa is fituated. They began, at firft, to attack us with ftones, from behind the walls of their inclofures, and finding no refiftance' on our part, they foon grew more daring. A few refolute fellows, having crept along the beach, under cover of the rocks, fuddenly made their appearance at the foot of the Morai, with a defign, as it feemed, of florming it on the fide next the fea, which was its ;only acceffible part ; and were not dif- lodged, till after they had flood a confiderable number of fhot, and feen one of their party fall. The A VOYAGE TO 1779. The bravery of one of thefe affailants well J ebruary. deferves to be particularly mentioned. For having returned to carry off his companion, amidft the fire of our whole par#y, a wound, which he received, made him quit the body and retire; but, in a few minutes, he again appeared, and being again wounded, he was obliged a fecond time to retreat. At this moment I arrived at the Morai, and faw him return the third time, bleeding and faint; and being informed of what had happened, I forbad thefoldiers to fire, and he was fuffered to carry off his friend; which he was juft able to perform, and then fell down haiafelf, and expired. About this time, a ftrong reinforcement from both fhips having landed,the natives retreated be-. hind their walls; which giving me accefs to our friendly priefts, I fent one of them to endeavour to bring their countrymen to fome terms, and to propofe to them, that if they would de- fift from throwing ftones, I would not permit our men to fire. This truce was agreed to, and we were fuffered to launch the mail, and carry off the fails, and our aftronomical apparatus, unmolefted. As foon as we had quitted the Morai, they took poffeffion of it, and fome of them threw a few ftones; but without doing us any mifchief. It was half an hour paft eleven o'clock, when I got on board the Difcovery, where I found no decifive plan had been adopted for our future proceedings. The reftitution of the boat, and the recovery of the body, of Captain Cook were the objects, which, on all hands, we agreed to infift on ; and it was my opinion, that fome vigorous fleps fhould be taken, in cafe the demand of them was not immediately complied with? Though ik THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 59 Though my feelings, on the death of a be- l779- loved and honoured friend, may befufpected to ^e^ruary* have had fome fhare in this opinion, yet there were certainly other reafons, and thofe of the moft ferious kind, that had confiderable weight with me. The confidence which their fuccefs in killing our Chief, and forcing us to quit the fhore, muft naturally have infpired; and the advantage, however trifling, which they had obtained over us the preceding day, would, I had no doubt, encourage them to make fome further dangerous attempts : and the more efpecially, as they had little reafon, from what they had hitherto feen, to dread the effects of our firearms. Indeed, contrary to the expectations of every one, this fort of weapon had produced nofigns of terror in them. On our fide, fuch was the condition of the fhips, and the ftate of difcipline amongft us, that had a vigorous attack been made on us, in the night, it would have been impoffible to anfwer for the confe- quences. In thefe apprehenfions, I was fupported by the opinion of moft of the officers on board; and nothing feemed to me fo likely to encourage the natives to make the attempt, as the appearance of our being inclined to. an accommodation, which they could only attribute to weaknefs, or fear. In favour of more conciliatory meafures, it was juftly urged, that the mifchief was done, and irreparable ; that the natives had a ftrong claim to our regard, on account of their former friendfhip and kindnefs; and the more efpecially, as the late melancholy accident did not appear to have arifen from any premeditated defign : that, on the part of Terreeoboo, his ignorance of the theft, his readinefs to accompany Captain Cook on board, and his having actually fent his 6b A VOYAGE T 1779- his two fons into the boat, muft free him from February. tne fraaueft degree of fufpicion : that the conduct of his women, and the Frees, might eafily foe accounted for, from the apprehenfions oc- cafioned by the armed force with which Captain Cook came on fhore, and the hoftile preparations in the bay; appearances fo different from the terms of friendfhip and confidence, in which footh parties had hitherto lived, that the arming of the natives was evidently with a defign to refift the attempt, which they had fome reafon to imagine would be made, to carry off their Iking by force, and was naturally to be expected from a people full of affection and attachment to their Chiefs. To thefe motives of humanity, others of a prudential nature were added ; that we were in want of water, and other refrefhmentsjF that our foremait would require fix or eight days \ work, before it could be flepped : that the fpring was.advancing apace; and that the fpeedy pro- fecution of our next Northern expedition ought 3iow to be our fole object: that therefore to engage in a vindictive conteft wi#the inhabitants, might not only lay us under the imputation of unneceffary cruelty, but would occafion an unavoidable delay in the equipment of the fhips. In this latter opinion Captain Clerke concurred ; and though I was convinced, that an early difolay of vigorous refentment would more effectually have anfwered every object both of prudence and humanity, I was not forry, that ihe meafures I had recommended were rejected. For though the contemptuous behaviour of the natives, and their fubfequent opposition to our neceffary operations on fhore, a rifing, 1 have no doubt, from mifconftruction of our lenity, compelled us at laft to have recourfe to violence in our THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 61 our own defence-, yet I am not fo fure, that 17_g> the circumftances of the cafe would, in the February opinion of the world, have juftified me ufe of force, on our part, in the firft inftance. Cautionary rigour is at all times invidious, and has this additional objection to it, that the feverity of a preventive courfe, when if beft fucceeds, leaves its expediency the leaft apparent. During the time we were thus engaged, in concerting fome plan for our future conduct, a prodigious concourfe of natives ttill kept poffeffion of the fhore ; and fome of them came off in canoes, and had the boldnefs to approach within piftol-fhot of the fhips, and to infult us by various marks of contempt and defiance. It was with great difficulty we could reftrain the failors from the ufe of their arms, on thefe occafions ; but as pacific meafures had been refolved on, the canoes, were fuffered to return. unmolefted. In purfuance of this plan, it was determined, that I fhould proceed toward the fhore, with the boats of both fhips, well manned and armed, with a view to bring the natives to a parley, and, if poffible, to obtain a conference with fome of the Chiefs. If this attempt fucceeded, I was to demand the dead bodies, and particularly that of Captain Cook; to threaten them with our vengeance in cafe of a refufal; but, by no means, to fire unlefs attacked ; and not to land on any account whatever. Thefe orders were delivered to me before the whole party, and in the moft pofitive manner. I left the fhips about four o'clock in the afternoon ; and, as we approached the fhore, I perceived every indication of a hoftile reception. The A VOYAGE TO The whole crowd of natives was in motion; the women and children retiring ; the men putting on their war mats, and arming themfelves with long fpears and daggers. We alfo obferved, that, fince the morning, they had thrown up ftone breaft-works along the beach, where Captain Cook had landed ; probably in expectation of an attack at that place; and, as foon as we were within reach, they began to throw ftones at us with flings, but without doing any mifchief. Concluding, therefore, that all attempts to bring them to a parley would be in vain, unlefs I firft gave them fome ground for mutual confidence; I ordered the armed boats to flop, and went on, in the fmall boat, alone, with a white flag in my hand, which, by a general cry of joy from the natives, I had the fatisfaction to find was inftantly underftood. The women immediately returned from the fide of the hill, whither they had retired ; the men threw off their mats; and all fat down together by the water-fide, extending their arms, and inviting me to come on fhore. Though this behaviour was very expreffive of a friendly difpofition, yet I could not help en* tertaining fome fufpicions of its fincerity. But when I faw Koah, with a boldnefs and affurance altogether unaccountable, fwimming off toward the boat, with a white flag In his hand, I thought it neceffary to return this mark of confidence, and therefore received him into the boat, though armed; a circumftance which did not tend to leffen my fufpicions. I muft confefs, I had long harboured an unfavourable opinion of this man. The priefts had always told us, that he was of a malicious difpofition, and no friend of ours ; and the repeated detections of his fraud and treachery, had convinced us of the truth of their THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 63 their representations. Add to all this, the (hock- 1779. ing tranfaction of the morning, in which he was February. feen acting a principal part, made me feel the utmoft horror at finding myfelf fo near him; and as he came up to me with feigned tears, and embraced me, I was fo diftruftful of his intentions, that I could not help taking hold of the point of the pahooah, which he held in his hand, and turning it from me. I told him, that I had come to demand the body of Captain Cook ; and to declare war againft them, unlefs it was inftantly reftored. He affured me this fhould be done as foon as poffible ; and that he would go himfelf for that purpofe; and, after begging of me a piece of iron, with much af- furance, as if nothing extraordinary had happened, he leaped injo the fea, and fwam afhore, calling out to his countrymen, that we were all friends again. We waited near an hour, with great anxiety for his return ; during which time, the reft of the boats had approached fo near the fhore, as to enter into converfation with a party of the natives, at fome diftance frortrus ; by whom they were plainly given to underftand, that the body had been cut to pieces, and carried up-the coidll* try ; but of this circumftance I was not informed, till our return to the fhips. I began now to exprefs fome impatience at Koah's delay ; upon which the Chiefs preffed me exceedingly to come on fhore -, alluring me, that if I would go myfelf to Terreeoboo, the body wbfeld certainly be reftored to me. When they found they could not prevail on me to land, they attempted, under a pretence of wifhing to converfe with more eafe, to decoy our boat among fome rocks, where they would have had it in their power to cut us off from the reft. It ".'-, » was 1*1 A VOYAGE TO was no difficult matter to fee through thefe artifices ; and I was, therefore, ftrongly inclined to break off all further communication with them, came to us,.jwho was the particular friend of Captain Clerke, and of the officers of the Difcovery, on board which fhip he had failed, when we laft left the bay, intending to take his paffage to Mowee. He told us, he came from Terreeoboo to acquaint us, that the body was carried up the country ; but that it fhould be brought to us the next morning. There appeared a great deal of fincerity in his manner -, and being afked, if he told a falfehood, he hooked his two fore-fingers together, which is underftood amongft thefe iflanders as the fign of truth ; in the ufe of which they are very fcrupulous. As I was now at a lofs in what manner to proceed, I fent Mr. Vancouver to acquaint Captain Clerke with all that had paffed ; that my opinion was, they meant not to keep their word with its, and were fo far from being forry at what had Jjfjjjipened, that, on the contrary, they were full of fpirits and confidence on account of their W|e fuccefs, and fought only to gain time, till they could contrive fome fcheme for getting us into their power. Mr. Vancouver came back with orders for me to return on board; having firft given the natives to underftand, that if the body was not brought the next morning, the town fhould be deftroyed. When they faw that we were going off, they endeavoured to provoke us by the mofl intuiting and contemptuous geftures. Some of our people faid, they could diftinguifh feveral of the natives parading about in the clothes of our unfortunate comrades; and, among them, a Chief brandifhing Captain Cook's hanger, and a woman holding THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 65 holding the fcabbard. Indeed, there can be no i779- doubt, but that our behaviour had given them a \§gHfi^ mean opinion of our courage ; for they could have but little notion of the motives of humanity that directed it. In confequence of the report I made to Captain Clerke, of what I conceived to be the prefent temper and difpofition of the iflanders, the moft effectual meafures were taken to guard againft any attack they might make in the night. The boats were moored with top-chains; additional fentinels were pofted on both fhips * and guard- boats were flationed to row round them, in order to prevent the natives from cutting the cables. During the night we obferved a prodigious number of lights on the hills, which made fome of us imagine, they were removing their effects back into the country, in confequence of our threats. But I rather believed them to have been the facrifices that were performing on account of the war, in which they imagined themfelves about to be engaged ; and moft probably the bodies of our flain countrymen were, at that time, burning. We afterward faw fires of the fame kind, as we paifed the ifland of Morotoi ; and which, we were told by fome natives then on board, were made on account of the war they- had declared againft a neighbouring ifland. And this agrees with what we learned amongft the Friendly and Society Ifles, that, previous to any expedition againft an enemy, the Chiefs always endeavoured to animate and inflame the courage of the people by feaiis and rejoicings in the night. We remained the whole night undifturbed, except by the howlings and lamentations which were heard on fliore: and early the next morning, Koah came along-fide the Refolution, with a prefent of cloth, and a fmall pig, which he Vol. III. F ' defired DO A VOYAGE TO *779- defired leave to prefent to me. I have men> February. tjoneci before, that I was fuppofed, by the natives, to be the fon of Captain Cook ; and as he, in his life-time, had always fuffered them to believe it, I was probably confidered as the Chief, after his death. As foon as I came on deck, I queftioned him about the body ; and, on his returning me nothing but evafive anfwers, I re- fufed to accept his prefents; and was going to difmifs him, with fome expreffiohs of anger and refentment, had not Captain Clerke, judging it beft, at all events, to keep up the appearance of friendfhip, thought it more proper, that he fhould be treated with the ufual refpect. This treacherous fellow came frequently to us, during the courfe of the forenoon, with foma trifling prefent or other; and as I always obferved him eyeing every part of the fhip with great attention, I took care he fhould fee we were well prepared for our defence. He was exceedingly urgent, both with Captain Clerke and myfelf, to go on fhore, laying: all the blame of the detention of the bodies on the other Chiefs ; and affuring us, that every thing might be fettled to our fatisfaction, by a per- fonal interview with Terreeoboo. However, his conduct was too fufpicious to make it prudent to comply with this requeft ; and indeed a fact came afterward to our knowledge, which proved the entire falfdiood of his pretenfions. For we were told, that, immediately after the action in which Captain Cook was killed, the old king had retired to a cave in the fteep part of the mountain, that hangs over the bay, which was : acceffible only by the help of ropes, and where he -remained for many days, having his victuals let down to him by cords. Whe® THE PACIFIC OCEAN. When Koah returned from the fhips, we could perceive that his country man, who had been collected, by break of day, in vaft crowds on the fhore, thronged about him with great eagernefs ; as if to learn the intelligence he had acquired, and what was to be done in confequence of it. It is very probable, that they expected we fhould attempt to put our threats irt execution ; and they feemed fully refolved to ftand their ground. During the whole morning, we heard conchs blowing in different parts of the coaft ; large parties were feen marching over the hills ; and, in fhort, appearances were fo alarming, that we carried out a flream anchor, to enable us to haul the fhip abreaft of the town, in cafe of an attack ; and flationed boats off the North point of the bay, to prevent a furprife from that quarter. The breach of their engagement to reftore the bodies of the flain, and the warlike pofture, in wUch they, at this time, appeared, occafioned frefh debates amongft us concerning the meafures next to be purfued. It was, at laft, determined, that nothing fhould be fuffered to interfere with the repair of the maft, and the preparations for our departure ; but that we fhould, neverthelefs, continue our negotiations for the recovery of the bodies. The greateft part of the day was taken up in getting the fore-maft into a proper fituation on deck, for the carpenters to work upon it; and in making the neceffary alterations in the com- miffions of the officers. The command of the expedition having devolved on Captain Clerke, he removed on board the Refolution, appointed Lieutenant Gore to be Captain of the Difcovery, and promoted Mr. Harvey, a midfhipman, who had been with Captain Cook in his two laft voyages, to the vacant Lieutenancy. During F 2 the 67 >779- February. w 68 A VOYAGE TO , MB il J77g. the whole day, we met with no interruptioff February, from the natives ; and, at night, the launch was again moored with a top-chain ; and guard- boats flationed round both fhips as before. About eight o'clock, it being very dark, a canoe was heard paddling toward the fhip ; and as foon as it was feen, both the fentinels on deck fired into it. There were two perfons in the canoe, and they immediately roared out " Tin- nee," (which was the way in which they pronounced my name), and faid they were friends, and had fomething for me belonging to Captain Cook. When they came on board, they threw themfelves at our feet, and appeared exceedingly frightened. Luckily neither of them was hurt,, notwithftanding the balls of both pieces had gone through the canoe. One of them was the perfon, whom I have before mentioned under the name of the Taboo man, who conftantly attended Captain Cook with the circumftances of ceremony I have already defcribed ; and who, though a man of rank in the ifland, could fcarcely be hindered from performing for him the loweft offices of a menial fervant. After lamenting with abundance of tears, the lofs of the Orono, he told us that he had brought us a part of his body. He then prefented to us a fmall bundle wrapped up in cloth, which he brought under his arm ; and it is impoffible to defcribe the horror which feized us, on finding in it, a piece of human flefti, about nine or ten pounds weight. This, he faid, was all that remained of the body ; that the reft was cut to pieces, and burnt; but that the head and all the bones, except what belonged to the trunk, were in the poffeffion of Terreeoboo, and the other Erees -, that what we faw had been allotted to Kaoo, the chief of the priefts, to be made ufe of in fome religious ceremony; and THE PACIFIC OCEAN. and that he had fent it as a proof of his innocence and attachment to us. This afforded an opportunity of informing ourfelves, whether they were cannibals ; and we did not neglect it. We firft tried, by many indirect queftions, put to each of them apart, to learn in what manner the reft of the bodies had been difpofed of; and finding them very conftant in one flory, that, after the flefli had been cut off, it was all burnt; we at laft put the direct queflion, Whether they had not eat fome of it ? They immediately fhewed as much horror at the idea, as any European would have done ; and afked, very naturally, if that was the cuftom amongft us ? They afterward afked us, with great earneftnefs and apparent appre- henfion, f When the Orong_vjQ}M^sms^S^£kl and what he would do to them on his return r The fame inquiry was frequently made after- j ward brothers; and this idea agrees with the ; general tenour of their conduct toward him, \ which fhewed, that they confidered him as a being of a fuperior nature. We preffed our two friendly vifiters to remain -on board till morning ; but in vain. They told us, that, if this tranfa&ion fhould come to the knowledge of the king, or Chiefs, it might be attended with the moft fatal confequences to their whole fociety ; in order to prevent which, they had been obliged to come off to us in the dark ; and that the fame precaution would be neceffary '.Wreturning on fhore. They informed us farther, that the Chiefs were eager to revenge the death of their countrymen; and, particularly, cautioned us againft milling Koah, who, they faid, was our mortal and implacable enemy ; and defired nothing more ardently, than an opportunity of fighting us; to which the blowing of 69 „ '779- February. 7o •779- February, if Tuefday 16. A V OYAGE TO of the conchs, we had heard in the morning, was meant as a challenge. We learned from thefe men, that feventeen of their countrymen were killed in the firft action at Kowrowa, of whom five were Chiefs ; and that Kaneena and his brother, our very particular friends, were unfortunately of that number. Eight, they faid, were killed at the obfer- vatory -, three of whom were alfo of the firft rank. About eleven o'clock, our two friends left us, and took the precaufidk to defire, that our guard-boat might attend them, till they had paffed the Difcovery, left they fhould again be fired upon, which might alarm their countrymen on fliore, and expofe them to the danger of being difcovered. This requeft was complied with ; and we had the fatisfaction to find, that they got fafe and undifcovered to land. During the remainder of this night, we heard the fame loud howling and lamentations, as in the preceding one. Early in the morning, we received another vifit from Koah. I muft confefs, I was a little piqued to find, that, notwithftand- ing the moft evident marks of treachery in his conduct, and the pofitive teftimony of our friends the priefts, he fhould ftill be permitted to carry on the fame farce, and to make us at leaft appear to be the dupes of his hypocrify. Indeed our fituation was become extremely awkward and unpromifing; none of the purpofes for which this pacific courfe of proceeding had been adopted, having hitherto been in the leaft forwarded by it. No fatisfactory anfwer whatever had been given to our demands ; we did not feem to be at all advanced toward a reconciliation with the iflanders ; they ftill kept in force on the fhore, as if determined to refift any attempts we might make to land; and yet the attempt was become abfolutely THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 7* abfo'lutely neceffary, as the completing our fup- J779- ply of water would not admit of any longer February, delay. However it muft be obferved, in juftice to the conduct of Gaptain Clerke, that it was very probable, from the great numbers of the natives, and from the refolution with which they feemed to expect us, an attack could not have been made without fome danger ; and that the lofs of a very few men might have been feverely felt by us, during the remaining courfe of our voyage. W ereas the delaying the execution of cur threats, though, on the one hand, it leffened their opinion of our prowefs, had the effect of caufing them to difperfe, on the other. For, this day, about noon, finding us perfift in our inactivity, great bodies of them, after blowing their conchs, and ufing every mode of defiance, inarched off, over the hills, and never appeared .afterward. Thofe, however, who remained, were not the lefs daring and infolent. One man had the audacity to come within mufquet-fhot, ,a-head of the fhip; and, after flinging feveral ftones at us, he waved Captain Cook's hat over his head, whilft his countrymen on fhore were exulting, and encouraging his boldnefs. Our people were all in a flame at this irifult, and coming in a body on the quarter-deck, begged they might no longer be obliged to put up with thefe repeated provocations; artd requefted me to obtain permiffion for them, from Captain Clerke, to avail themfelves of the firit fair occafion of revenging the death of their Commander. On my acquainting him with what was paffing, he gave orders for fome great guns to be fired at the natives on fhore; and promifed the crew, &hat if they fhould meet with any moleftation at the 72 A VOYAGE TO 1779. the watering-place the next day, they fhould February. t\ien be ]eft at Hb^ty to chaftife them. "' '"•"' -r It is fomewhat remarkable, that, before we Jj&uld bring our guns to bear, the iflanders haw fufpected our intentions, from thoajsr they faw Jgr the (tap, and had retired behind their houfes and walls. We were therefore obliged to fire, in fome meafure, at random; notwithftanding which, our fhot produced all the effects that could have been defired. For, foon after, we faw Koah paddling towaip, us> with extreme hafte, and, on his arrival, we learned, that fome people had been killec^ and amongft the reft, Maiha-maiha, a principal Chief, and a near relation of the king *. Soon after the apival of Koah, two boys fwam off from the Morai toward the fhips, having each a long fpear in his hand ; and after they had approached pretty neai^they began to chant a fong, in a very folemn manner : the fubject of which, from their often mentioning the word Orono, and pointing to the village where Captain Cook was killed, we concluded to be the late calamitous difafter. Having fung in a plaintive ftrain for about twelve or fifteen minutes, during the whole of which time they remained in the water, they went on board the Difcovery, and delivered their fpears; and, after making a fhort flay, returned on fhore. Who fent them, or what was the object of this ceremony, we were never able to learn. At night, the ufual precautions were taken for the fecurity of the fhips; and as foon as it was * The word matee, is commonly ufed., in the language of thefe iflands, to exprefs either killing or wounding ; and we were afterward told, that this Chief had only received a flight blow on the face from a ftone, which had been fuuek. by one of the balls. dark, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 73 dark, our two friends, who had vifited us the ,779- . night before, came off again. They affured us, February, that though the effecls of our great guns, this v—v--' afternoon, had terrified the Chiefs exceedingly, they had by no means laid afide their hoftile intentions, and advifed us to be on our guard. The next morning, the boats of both fhips Wednef. were fent afhore for water; and the Difcovery 17. was warped clofe to the beach, in order to cover that fervice. We foon found, that the intelligence which the priefts had fent us, was not without foundation ; and that the natives were refolved to take every opportunity of annoying us, when it could be done without much rifle. Throughout all this group of iflands, the villages, for thejnoft part, are fituated near the fea; and the I|djacent ground is inclofed with ftone walls, about three-feet high. Thefe, we at firft imagined, were intended for the divifion of property ; but we now difcovered, that they ferved, and probably were principally defigned, for a defence againft invafion. They confill of loofe ftones, and the inhabitants are very dexterous in fhifting them, with great quicknefs, to fuch fituations, as the direction of the attack may require. In the fides of the mountain, which hangs over the bay, they have alfo little holes, or caves, of confiderable depth, the entrance of which is fecured by a fence of the fffne kind. From behind both thefe defences the natives kept perpetually harafling our water- ers with ftones; nor could the fmall force we had on fhore, with the advantage of mufquets, compel^hem to retreat. In this expofed fituation, our people were fo taken up in attending to their own fafety, that they employed the whole forenoon in filling only one ton of water. As it was therefore im- poffible to perform this fervice, till their afiail- ants 74 *779; February. *——yn-SJ A VOYAGE TO ants were driven to a greater diftance, the Difcovery was ordered to diflodge them, with her ' great guns ; which being effected by a few dif- chaiges, the men landed without moleftation. However, the natives foon after made their appearance again, in their ufual mode of attack ; and it was now found abfolutely neceffary to burn down fome ftraggling houfes, near the wall, behind which they had taken fhelter. In executing thefe orders, I am forry to add, that our people were hurried into acts of unneceffary cruelty and devaftation. Something ought certainly to be allowed to their refentment of the repeated infults, and contemptuous behaviour, of the iflanders, and to the natural defire of revenging the lofs of their Commander. But, at the fame time, their conducl ferved ftrongly to convince me, that the utmoft precaution is neceffary in trufting, though but for a moment, the difcretionary ufe of arms, in the hands of private feamen, or foldiers, on fuch occafions. The rigour of difcipline, and the habits of obedience, by which their force is kept directed to its' proper objects, lead them naturally enough to conceive, that whatever they have the power, they have alfo the right to do. Actual difobe- dience being almoft the only crime for which they are accuftomed to expect punifhment, they learn to confider it as the only meafure of right and wrong; and hence are apt to conclude, that what they can do with impunity, they may do with juftice and honour. So that the feelings of humanity, which are infeparable from us all, and that generality toward an unrefifting enemy, which, at other times, is the diftinguifhing mark of brave men, become but weak reftraints to the exercife of violence, when oppofed to the defire they naturally have of fhewing their own independence and power. I have THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 75 I have already mentioned, that orders had »779- been given to burn only a few ftraggling huts, ^br"ary' which afforded fhelter to the natives. We were therefore a good deal furprized to fee the whole village on fire •, and before a boat, that was fent to flop the progrefs of the mifchief, could reach the fhore, the houfes of our old and con- ilant friends, the priefts, were all in flames. I cannot enough lament the illnefs, that confined me on board this day. The priefts had always been under my protection ; and, unluckily, the officers who were then on duty, having been feldom on fhore at the Morai, were not much acquainted with the circumftances of the place. Had I been prefent myfelf, I might probably have been the means of faving their little fociety from deftruction. Several of the natives were fhot, in making their efcape from the flames; and our people cut off the heads of two of them, and brought them on board. The fate of one poor iflander was much lamented by us all. As he was coming to the well for water, he was fhot at by one of the marines. The ball ftruck his cali- bafh, which he immediately threw from him and fled. He was purfued into one of the caves I have before defcribed, and no lion could have defended his den with greater courage and fiercenefs ; till at laft, after having kept two of our people at bay for a confiderable time, he expired, covered with wounds.. It was this acci- T^it, that firft brought us acquainted with the ufe of thefe caverns. At this time, an elderly man was taken prifoner, bound, and fent on board in the fame bqat with the heads of his two countrymen. I never faw horror fo ftrongly pictured as in the face of this man, nor fo violent a tranfition to extravagant joy, as when he was untied, and told *?6 A VOYAGE TO came up, charge. found 5779. told he might go away in fafety. He fhewed February. Us he did not want gratitude, as he frequently afterward returned with prefents of provifions ; and alfo did us other fervices. Soon after the village was deftroyed, we faw, coming down the hill, a man, attended by fifteen or twenty boys, holding pieces of white cloth, green boughs, plantains, csV. in their hands. I knew not how it happened, that this peaceful embaffy, as foon as they were within reach, received the fire of a party of our men. This, however, did not flop them. They continued their proceffion, and the officer on duty in time, to prevent a fecond dif- As they approached nearer, it was to be our much-efteemed friend Kaireekeea, who had fled on our firft fetting fire to .the village, and had now returned, and defired to be fent on board the Refolution. When he arrived, we found him exceedingly grave and thoughtful. We endeavoured to make him underftand the neceffity we were under of fetting fire to the village, by which his houfe, and thofe of his brethren, were unintentionally confumed. He expoftulated a little with us on our want of friendfhip, and on our ingratitude. And, indeed, it was not till now that we learnt the whole extent of the injury we had done them. He told us, that, relying on the promifes I had made them, and on the affile ranees they had afterward received from the men, who had brought us the remains of Captain Cook, they had not removed their effects back into the country, with the reft of the inhabitants, but had put every thing that was valuable of their own, as well as what they had collected from us, into a houfe clofe to the Morai, where they had the mortification to fee jt all fet on fire by ourfelves. On THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 77 On coming on board,' he had feen the heads '779- of his countrymen lying on the deck, at which t et^uaiy-. he was exceedingly fhocked, and defired, with ' " great earneftnefs, that they might be thrown over-board. This requeft Captain Clerke in- ftantly ordered to be complied with. In the evening, the watering party returned on board, having met with no farther interruption. We paifed a gloomy night; the cries and lamentations we heard on fhore being far more dreadful than ever. Our only confolation was, the hope that we fhould have no occafion, in future, for a repetition of fuch feverities. It is very extraordinary, that, amidft all thefe difturbances, the women of the ifland, who were on board, never offered to leave us, nor difcovered the fmalleft apprehenfions either for themfelves or their friends afhore. So entirely unconcerned did they appear, that fome of them, who were on deck when the town was in flames,' feemed to admire the fight, and frequently cried out, that it was maitai, or very fine. The next morning, Koah came off as ufual ThurW. to the fhips. As there exifted no longer any 18. neceffity for keeping terms with him, I was allowed to have my own way. When he approached toward the fide of the fhip, finging his fong, and offering me a hog, and fome plantains, I ordered him to keep off, cautioning him never to appear again without Captain Cook's bones, left his life fhould pay the for- :\ feit of his frequent breach of promife. He did not appear much mortified with this reception, but went immediately on fhore, and joined a party of his countrymen, who were pelting the waterers with ftones. The body of the young man, who had been killed the day before, was found this morning, lying at the entrance of the 78 1779- .February Friday 19. A VOYAGE TO the cave; and fome of our people went, and - threw a mat over it. Soon after which they faw fome men carrying him off on their fhoulde^l and could hear them finging, as they marched, a mournful fong. The natives, being at laft convinced that it was not the want of ability to punifh them, which had hitherto made us tolerate their provocations, defifted from giving us any farther moleftation ; and, in the evening, a Chief called Eappo, who had feldom vifited us, but whom we knew to be a man of the very firft confequence, came with prefents from Terreeoboo to fue for peace. Thefe prefents were received, and he was difmiffed with the fame anfwer which had before been given, that, until the remains of Captain Cook fhould be reftored, no peace would be granted. We learned from this perfon, that the flefh of all the bodies of our people, together with the bones of the trunks, had been burnt; that the limb bones of the marines had been divided amongft the inferior Chiefs ; and that thofe of Captain Cook had been difpofed of in the following manner: the head, to a great Chief, called Kahoo-opeon; the hair to Maia-maia ; and the legs, thighs, and arms to Terreeoboo. After it was dark, many of the inhabitants came off with roots and we alfo received two fame articles from Kai- in fending and other vegetables large prefents of the reekeea. The 19th was chiefly taken up and receiving the meffages which paffed be tween Captain Clerke and Terreeoboo. Eappo was very preffing, that one of our officers fhould go on fhore; and, in the mean time, offered to remain as an hoftage on board. This requeft, however, it was not thought proper to comply with ; and he left us with a promife of bringing the i THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 79 ao. the bones the next day. At the beach, the »779- waterers did not meet with the leaft oppofition February. from the natives; who, notwithftanding our cautious behaviour, came amongft us again, without the fmalleft appearance of diffidence or apprehenfion. Early in the morning of the 20th, we had Saturday the fatisfaction of getting the fore-maft flepped. It was an operation attended with great difficulty, and fome danger -, our ropes being fo exceedingly rotten, that the purchafe gave way feveral times. Between ten and eleven o'clock, we faw a great number of people defcending the hill, which is over the beach, in a kind of proceffion, each man carrying a fugar-cane or two on his fhoulders, and bread-fruit, taro, and plantains in his hand. They were preceded by two drummers; who, when they came to the water- fide, fat down by a white flag, and began to beat their drums, while thofe who had followed them, advanced, one by one ; and, having de- pofited the prefents they had brought, retired in the fame order. Soon after, Eappo came in fight, in his long feathered cloak, bearing fomething with great folemnity in his hands; and having placed himfelf on a rock, he made figns for a boat to be fent him. Captain Clerke, conjecturing that he had brought the bones of Captain Cook, which proved to be the fact, went himfelf in the pinnace, to receive them; and ordered me to attend him in the cutter. When we arrived at the beach, Eappo came into the pinnace, and delivered to the Captain the bones wrapped up in a large quantity of fine new cloth, and covered with a fpotted cloak of black and white feathers. He afterward attended us to the Refolution-, but could not be prevailed upon to go on board -, probably m 8© A VOYAGE TO illf 1 I ii I ,779- probably not choofing, from a fen fe of decency, February. to be prefent at the opening of the bundle. We ' found in it both the hands of Captain Cook entire, which were well known from a remarkable fear on one of them, that divided the thumb from the fore-finger, the whole length of the metacarpal bone; the fkull, but with the fcalp feparated from it, and the bones that form the face wanting; the fcalp, with the hair upon it cut fhort, and the ears adhering to it; the bones of both arms, with the fkin of the fore-arms hanging to them ; the thigh and leg- bones joined together, but without the feet. The ligaments of the joints were entire; and the whole bore evident marks of having been in the fire, except the hands, which,had the flefh left upon them, and were cut in feveral places, and crammed with fait, apparently with an intention of preferving them. The fcalp had a cut in the back part of it, but the fkull was free from any fracture. The lower jaw and feet, which were wanting, Eappo told us, had been feized by different Chiefs, and that Terreeoboo was ufing every means to recover them. The next morning, Eappo, and the king's fon, came on board, and brought with them the remaining bones of Captain Cook; the barrels of his gun, his fhoes, and fome other trifles that belonged to him. Eappo took great pains to convince us, that Terreeoboo, Maiha- maiha, and himfelf were moft heartily defirous of peace; that they had given us the moft convincing proof of it in their power; and that they had been prevented from giving it fboner by the other Chiefs, many of whom were ftill our enemies. He lamented, with the greateft for- row, the death of fix Chiefs we had killed, fome of whom, he faid, were amongft our beft friends. Sunday zi. The cutter, he told us, was taken away by Pareea's THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 81 Pareea's people ; very probably in revenge for 1779- , the blow that had been given him ; and that it £j^™^ had broken up the next day. The arms of the marines, which we had alfo demanded, he af- fured us, had been carried off by the common people, and were irrecoverable; the bones of the Chief alone having been preferved, as belong- ing to Terreeoboo and the Erees. Nothing now remained, but to perform the laft offices to our great and unfortunate Commander. Eappo was difmiffed with orders to taboo all the bay; and, in the afternoon, the bones having been put into a coffin, and the fervice read over them, they were committed to the deep with the ufual military honours. What our feelings were on this occafion, I leave the world to conceive ; thofe who were prefent know, that it is not in my power to exprefs them. During the forenoon of the 22d, not a canoe Monday was feen paddling in the bay ; the taboo, which 2l2" Eappo had laid on it the day before, at our re- quell, not being yet taken off. At length Eappo came off to us. We affured him, that we were now entirely fatisfied; and that, as the Orono was buried, all remembrance of what had paffed was buried with him. We afterward defired him to take off the taboo, and to make it known, that the people might bring their provifions as ufual. The fhips were foon furrounded with canoes, and many of the Chiefs came on board, expreffing great forrow at what happened, and their fatisfaction at our reconciliation. Several of our friends, who did not vifit us, fent prefents of large hogs, and other provifions. Amongft the reft earns the old treacherous Koah, but was refufed admittance. Vol. III. G h% 82 A VOYAGE TO ,7-g. As we had now every thing ready for fes, February. Captain Clerke imagining, that, if the news of our proceedings fhould reach the Iflands to leeward before us, it might have a bad effect, gave orders to unmoor. About eight in evening we difmifled all the natives; and Eappo, and the friendly Kaireekeea, took an affectionate leave of us. We immediately weighed, and ftood out of the bay. The natives were collected on the fhore in great numbers; and, as we paffed along, received our laft farewells with every mark of affection and good-will. CHAP. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 83 CHAP. V. Departure from Karakakooa in Search of an Harbour on the South Eaft Side of Mowee.—Driven to Leeward by the Eafterly Winds and Current. —Pafs the Ifland of Tahoorowa.—Defcription tof the South Weft Side of Mowee.—Run along the Coafts of Ranai and Morotoi to Woahoo.— Defcription of the North Eaft Coaft of Woahoo. —Unfuccefsful Attempt to water.—Paffage to Atooi.—Anchor in Wymoa Bay.—Dangerous Situation of the Watering Party on Shore.—Civil Diffentidns in the Iflands.—Vifit from the contending Chiefs.—Anchor off Oneeheow.-*>-Final Departure from the Sandwich Iflands. WE got clear of the land about ten; and, 1779. hoifting in the boats, ftood to the North-February. ward, with an intention of fearching for an har- v——^—>* hour on the South Eaft fide of Mowee, which M°ndar we had heard frequently mentioned by the natives. The next morning we found ourfelves Tuefday driven to the leeward by a heavy fwell from the 23. North Eaft ; and a frefh gale, fpringing up from the fame quarter, carried us ftill farther to the Weftward. At midnight we tacked, and ftood Wednef. to the South for four hours, in order to keep 24- clear of the land ; and, at day-break, we found ourfelves ftanding toward a fmall barren ifland, called Tahoorowa, which lies feven or eight miles to the South Weft of Mowee. ; G 2 All I A VOYAGE TO 1779- February, AH profpect of examining more nearly the South Eaft parts of Mowee being now deftroy- ed, we bore away, and ran along the South Eaft fide of Tahoorowa. As we were fleering clofe round its Weftern extremity, with an intention of fetching the Weft fide of Mowee, we fud- denly fhoaled our water, and obferved the fea breaking on fome detached J rocks, almoft right a-head. This obliged us to keep away a league and a half, when we again fteered to the Northward ; and, after paffing over a bank, with nineteen fathoms water, flood for a paffage between Mowee and an ifland called Ranai. At noon, the latitude was, by obfervation, 200 42' North, and the longitude 2030 22' Eaft ; the Southern extremity of Mowee bearing Eaft South Eaft, quarter Eaft; the Southern extremity of Ranai Weft North Weft, quarter Weft % Morotoi, North Weft and by North; and the Weftern extremity of Tahoorowa, South by Eaft, feven miles diftant. Our longitude was accurately deduced from obfervations made by the time-keeper before and after noon, compared with the longitude found by a great many diftances of the moon from the fun and ftars, which were alfo obferved the fame day. In the afternoon, the weather being calm, with light airs, from the Weft, we ftood on to the North North Weft; but, at fun-fet, obferving a fhoal, which appeared to ftretch to a confiderable diftance from the Weft point of Mowee, toward the middle of the paffage, and the weather being unfettled, we tacked, and ftood toward the South. The South Weft fide of this ifland, which we now had paffed without being able to get near the fhore, forms the fame diftant view with the North Eaft, as feen on our return from the North, in November 1778; the mountainous parts, which THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 85 which are connected by a low, flat ifthmus, ap- 1779- pearing at firft like two feparate iflands. This \^"!3* deception continued on the South Weft fide, till we approached within eight or ten leagues of the coaft, which, bending inward, to a great depth, formed a fine capacious bay. The Wefternmoft point, off which the fhoal we have .jP mentioned runs,ismade remarkable by a fmall hillock, to the Southward of which there is a fine fandy bay, with feveral huts on the fhore. and a number of cocoa-nut trees growing about them. During the courfe of the day, we were vifited by feveral of the natives, who came off to fell provifions ; and we foon found, that they had heard of our late unfortunate tranfaclions at Owhyhee. They were very curious to learn the particulars, from a woman who had concealed herfelf on board the Refolution, in order to take her paffage to Atooi; inquiring eagerly after Pareea, and fome other Chiefs, and appearing much fhocked at the death of Kaneena, and his brother. We had, however, the fatisfaction to find, that, in whatever light the woman might have reprefented this bufinefs, it had no bad effect on their behaviour, which was remarkably civil and fubmiffive. The weather continued variable, during the night; but in the morning of the 25th, having Thurfdoy the wind at Eaft, we ran along the South fide of 25- Ranai, till near noon s after which, we had calms and baffling winds till evening, when we fteered, with a light Eafterly breeze, for the Weft part of Morotoi. In the courfe of the day, the current, which, from the time we left Karakakooa Bay, had fet from the North Eaft, changed its direction to the South Eaft. During the night, the wind was again varia- §>Ie j but early next morning, it fettled at Eaft, Friday and *6. ■ A VOYAGE TO IWii ,779 and blew fo frefh, as to oblige us to double-reef February, the topfails. At feven, on hauling round the >—v——1 "Weft point of Morotoi, we opened agnail bay, at the diftance of about two leagues, with a fine fandy beach; but feeing no appearance of frefh water, we ftood on to the North, in order to get to the windward of Woahoo, an iflallEl which we had feen at our firft vifit, in January At two in the afternoon, we faw the land, bearing Weft by North, eight leagues diftant j and having tacked as foon as it was dark, we again bore away at day-light on the 27th ; and at half paft ten, were within a league of the fhore, near the middle of the North Eaft fide of the ifland. *| The coaft, to the Northward, is formed of detached hills, rifing perpendicularly from the fea, with ragged and broken fummits; the fides covered with wood, and the vallies between them of a fertile and well cultivated appearance. To the Southward, we faw an extenfive bay, bounded 'fey a low point of land to the South Eaft which was covered with cocoa nut trees ; and off it ftood a high in filiated rock, about a mile from the fhore. The hazinefs of the weather prevented our feeing diftinctly the land to the Southward of the point; we could only perceive that it was high and broken. As the wind continued to blow very frefh, we thought it dangerous to entangle ourfelves with a lee-fhore ; and therefore did not attempt to examine the bay, but hauled up, and fleered to the Northward, in the direction of the coaft. At noon, we were abreaft of the North point of the ifland, about two leagues from the land, which is low and flat, and has a reef ftretching off it to the diftance of near a mile and a half. The titude, by obfervation, 21' n 50' North, longitude THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 87 tude 2020 15' Eaft ; the extreme parts of the 1779. ifland in fight, bearing South South Eaft, quar- February, ter Eaft, and South Weft by South, three-. quarters Weft. Between the North point and a diftant headland, which we faw to the South Weft, the land bends inward confiderably, and appeared likely to afford a good road. We therefore directed our courfe along the fhore, at the diftance of about a mile, carrying regular foundings from twenty to thirteen fathoms. At a quarter paft two, the fight of a fine river, running through a deep valley, induced us to come to an anchor in thirteen fathoms water, with a fandy bottom ; the extreme points of the bay bearing South #Veft by Weft half Weft, and North Eaft by Eaft three-quarters Eaft ; and the mouth of the river South Eaft half Eaft, one mile diftant. In the afternoon, I attended the two Captains on fhore, where we found but few of the natives, and thofe moftly women; the men, they told us, were gone to Morotoi to fight Tahyterree; but that their Chief Perreeoranee, who had flayed behind, would certainly vifit us, as foon as he heard of our arrival. We were much difappointed to find the water had a brackifh tafte, for two hundred yards up the river, owing to the marfhy ground through which it empties itfelf into the fea. Beyond this, it was perfectly frefh, and formed a fine running ftream, along the fide of which I walked, till I came to the conflux of two fmall rivulets, that branched off to the right and left of a remarkably fteep and romantic mountain. The banks of this river, and indeed the whole we faw of the North Weft part of Woahoo, are well cultivated, and full of villages ; and the face of the country is uncommonly beautiful and picturefque. I A VOYAGE TO III 1779. February Sunday March. Monday 1. labour, I As the watering at this place would haviS been attended with examine the coaft to leeward. able to land, on account of a re which ftretched along the fhore to but the was lent to ot being of coral, diftance of half a mile, Captain Clerke determined, without farther lofs of time, to proceed to Atooi. At eight in the morning, we weighed, and flood to the Northward, till day-light on the 28th, when we bore away for that ifland, which we were in fight of by noon ; and about funfet, were off its Eaftern extremity, which fhews itfelf in a fine, green, flat point. It being too late to run for the road, on the South Well fide of the ifland, where we had been the laft year, we palled the night in plying on and off, and at nine the next morning, came to an anchor in twenty-five fathoms water, and moored with the beft bower in thirty-eight fathoms, the bluff-head, on the Weft fide of the village, bearing North Eaft by North three- quarters Eaft, two miles diftant; the . extremes of the ifland, North Weft by Weft three-quarters Weft, and South Eaft by Eaft half Eaft | the ifland of Oneheow Weft by South half Weft. In running down to the road, from the South Eaft point of the ifland, we faw the appearance of fhoal water, in feveral places, at a confider? able diftance from the land ; and when we were about two miles to the Eaftward of the anchor? ing-place and two or three miles from the fhore, we got into four and half fathoms water, although our foundings had ufually been feven and eight fathoms. We had no fooner anchored in our old ftation, than feveral canoes came along-fide of us; but we could obferve, that they did not welcome us with the fame cordiality in their manner, and fatisfaction in their countenances, as when we wers THE PACIFIC OCEAN. were here before. As foon as they got on board, one of the men began to tell us, that we had left a diforder amongft their women, of which feveral perfons of both fexes had died. ' He was himfelf afflicted with the venereal difi- eafe, and gave a very full and minute account of the various fymptoms with which it had been attended. As there was not the flighteft appearance of that diforder amongft them on our firft arrival, I am afraid it is not to be denied, that we were the authors of this irreparable mifchief. Our principal object here was to water the fhips with the utmoft expedition; and I was fent on fhore early in the afternoon, with the pinnace and launch laden with cafks. The gunner of the Refolutiofi accompanied me to trade for provir- fions; and we had a guard of five marines. We found a confiderable number of people collected upon the beach, who received us at firft with great kindnefs; but as foon as we had got the cafks on fhore, began to be exceedingly troublefome. Former experience having taught me how difficult it was to reprefs this difpofition, without haying recourfe to the authority of their Chiefs, I was very forry to find, that they were all at another part of the ifland. Indeed we foon felt the want of their affiftance; for it was with great difficulty I was able to form a circle, according to our ufual practice, for the convenience and fecurity of the trading party ; and had no fooner done it, and polled guards to keep off the crowd, than I faw a man laying hold of the bayonet of one of the foldiers mufquets, and endeavouring, with all his force, to wrench it out of his hand. On my coming up to them, the native let go his hold and retired ; but returned in a moment with a fpear in one hand, and dagger in the other ; and his countrymen had much ado to reitrain him from trying his prowefs *9 1779 Ma So '779- March. tf GS° m\ mm A VOYAGE TO prowefs with the foldier. This fray was occa- fioned by the latter's having given the man a flight prick with his bayonet, in order to make him keep without the line. I now perceived, that our fituation required great circumipection and management; and accordingly gave the ftricteft orders, that no one fhould fire, nor have recourfe to any other act of violence, without pofitive commands. As foon as I had given thefe directions, I was called to the affiftance of the watering party, where I found the natives equally inclined to mifchief. They had demanded from our people a large hatchet for every cafk of water; and this not being complied with, they would not fuffer the failors to roll them down to the boats. I had no fooner joined them, than one of the natives advanced up to me, with great infolence, and made the fame claim. I told him, that, as a friend, I was very willing to prefent him with a hatchet, but that I fhould certainly carry off the water, without paying any thing for it; and I immediately ordered the pinnace men to proceed in their bufinefs, and called three marines from the traders to protect them. Though this fhew of fpirit fucceeded fo far as to make the natives defift from any open attempt to interrupt us, they ftill continued to behave in the moft teafing and provoking manner. Whilft fome of them, under pretence of affifting the men in rolling down the cafks, turned them out of their courfe, and gave them a wrong direction ; others were dealing the hats from off the failors heads, pulling them backward by their clothes or tripping up their heels; the whole crowd, all this time, ihouting and laughing, with a ftrange mixture of childifhnefs and malice. > They afterward found means to Ileal the cooper's bucket, and took away his bag by force ; but the objects L T H E P C I F I C OCEAN. objects they were moft eager to poffefs themfelves of, were the mufquets of the marines, who were, every inftant, complaining of their attempts to force them out of their hands. Though they continued, for the moft part, to pay great deference and refpect to me, yet they did not fuffer me to efcape without contributing my fhare to their flock of plunder. One of them came up to me with a familiar air, and with great management diverted my attention, whilft another, wrenching the hanger, which I held care- lefly in my hand, from me, ran off with it like lightning. It was in vain to think of repelling this infb- lence by force; guarding therefore againft its effects, in the beft manner we were able, we had nothing to do but to fubmit patiently to it. My apprehenfions were, however, a little alarmed, by the information I foon after received from the ferjeant of marines, who told me, that, turning fuddenly round, he faw a man behind me holding a dagger in the pofition of ftriking. In this he might poffibly be miftaken ; yet our fituation was certainly alarming and critical, and the fmalieft error on our fide might have been fatal to us. As our people were feparated into three fmall parties, one at the lake, filling cafks; another rolling them down to the fliore; and the third, at fome diftance, purchafing provir fions ; it had once occurred to me, that it might be proper to collect them all together, and to execute and protect one duty at a time. But on fecond thoughts, I judged it more advifeable to let them continue as they were. In cafe of a real attack, our whole force, however advanr- tageoufly difpofed, could have made but a poor refiftance. On the other hand, I thought it of fome confequence to fhew the natives, that we were under no fears; and, what was ftill more material* 91 '779- March. .92 A VOYAGE TO '779- material, the crowd was, by this means, kept Mar^* divided, and a confiderable part of them fully employed in bartering provifions. It is probable, that their dread of the effects of our arms, was the principal caufe of their backwardnefs in attacking us; and indeed the confidence we appeared to place in this advan tage, by oppofing only five marines to their whole force, muft have raifed in them a very high idea of our fuperlority. It was our bufi- nefs to keep up this opinion as much, as poffible ; and in juftice to the whole party, I muft obferve, that no men could poffibly behave better, for the purpofe of ftrcngthening thefe im- preffions. Whatever could be taken in jeft, they bore with the utmoii temper and patience ; and whenever any ferious attempt was made to interrupt them, they oppofed it with bold looks and menaces. By this management, we fucceeded fo far, as to get all the cafks down to the water fide, without any material accident. While we were getting them into the launch, the natives, perceiving the opportunity of plundering would foon be over, became every moment more daring and infolent. On this occafion, I was indebted to the ferjeant of marines for fuggefting to me, the advantage that would arife from fending off his party firft into the boats; by which means, the m-ufquets of the foldiers, which, as I have already mentioned, were the objects the iflanders had principally in view, would be removed out of their reach ; and in cafe of an attack, the marines themfelves might be employed more effectually in our defence, than if they were on fhore. We had now got every thing into the boats, and only Mr. Anderfon the gunner, a feaman of the boat's crew, and myfelf, remained on fhore. As the pinnace lay beyond the furf, through L THE PACIFIC OCEAN. through which we were obliged to fwim, I told them to make the beft of their way to it, and that I fhould follow them. With this order I was furprized to find them both refufe to comply ; and the confequence was a conteft amongft us, who fhould be the laft on fhore. It feems, that fome hafty words I had juft before ufed to the failor, which he thought reflected on his courage, was the caufe of this odd fancy in him ; and the old gunner, finding a point of honour ftarted, thought he could not well avoid taking a part in it. In this ridiculous fituation we might have remained fome time, had not our difpute been foon fettled by the ftones that began to fly about us, and by the cries of the people from the boats, to make hafte, as the natives were following us into the water with clubs and fpears. I reached the fide of the pinnace firft, and finding Mr. Anderfon was at fome diftance behind, and not yet entirely out of danger, I called out to the marines to fire one mufquet. In the hurry of executing my orders, they fired two; and when I got into the boat, I faw the natives running away, and one man, with a woman fitting by him, left behind on the beach. The man made feveral attempts to rife, without being able; and it was with much regret, I perceived him to be wounded in the groin. The natives foon after returned, and furrounded the wounded man, brandifhing their fpears and daggers at us, with an air of threatening and defiance; but before we reached the fhips, we faw fome perfons, whom we fuppofed to be the chiefs, now arrived, driving them away from the fhore. During our abfence, Captain Clerke had been under the greateft anxiety for our fafety. And thefe apprehenfions were confiderably increafed, from his having entirely miftaken the drift of the 93 1779- March. ring 94 »779- March Tuefday 2" AVOYAGETO the converfation he had held with fome natives ; who had been on board. The frequent mention of the name of Capt^jfi Cook* with other ftrong and circumftantial defcriptions of death and defiruclion, made him conclude, that the knowledge of the unfortunate events at Owhyhee had reached them, and that thefe were what they alluded to; whereas all they had in view was, to make known to him the wars that had arifen, in confequence of the goats that Captain Cook had left at Oneeheow, and the flaughter of the poor goats themfelves, during the ftrug- gle for the property of them. Captain Clerke, applying this earneftnefs of converfation, and thefe terrible reprefentations, to our calamitous tranfadtions at Owhyhee, and to an indication of revenge, kept his telefcope fixed upon us, and the moment he faw the fmoke of the muf- quets, ordered the boats to be manned and armed, and to put off to our affiftance. The next morning, I was again ordered on fhore, with the watering party. The rifk &fe^ had run the preceding day determined Captain Clerke to fend a confiderable force from both fhips for our guard, amounting in all to forty men under arms. This precaution, however, was now unneceffary; for we found the beach left entirely to ourfelves, and the ground between the landing place and the lake, tabooed, with fmall white flags. We concluded, from this appearance, that fome of the Chiefs had certainly vifited this quarter; and that, not being able to flay, they Had kindly and confiderately taken this ftep, for our greater fecurity and convenience. We faw feveral men armed with long fpears and daggers, on the other fide of the river, on our right; but they did not offer to give us the leaft moleftaft'on. Their women came over, and fat down on the banks clofe by us, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 95 1779- March. » ' ' 1 ~' n Kit us, and at noon we prevailed on fome of the men to bring hogs and roots for o;ur people, and to drefs them for us. As foon as we had left the beach, they came down to the fea-fide, and one of them threw a ftone at us; but his conduct feeming to be highly difapproved of by all the reft, we did not think it proper to fhevf any refentment. The next day, we completed our watering, vVednef. without meeting with any material difficulty. On 3, our return to the fhips, we found that feveral Chiefs had been on board, and had made excu- fes for the behaviour of their countrymen, attributing their riotous conduct to the quarrels which fubfifted at that time amongft the principal people of the ifland, and which had occafioned a general want of order and fubordination amongft them. The government of Atooi was in dif- pute between Toneoneo, who had the fupreme power when we were here laft year, and a boy named Teavee. They are both, by different fathers, the grandfons of Pereeorannee, king of Woahoo, who had given the government of Atooi to the former, and that of Oneeheow to the latter. The quarrel had arifen about the goats we had left at Oneeheow the laft year; the right of property in which was claimed by Toneoneo, on the pretence of that ifland's being a dependency of his. The friends of Teavee infilling on the right of poffeffion, both parties prepared to maintain their pretenfions by force ; and a few days before our arrival, a battle had been fought, in which Toneoneo had been worfted. The confequence of this victory was likely to affect Toneoneo in a much deeper manner than by the mere lofs of the objects in difpute; for the mother of Teavee, having married a fecond hufband, who was a Chief of Atooi, and at the head of a powerful faclion there, he thought IP if 96 A VOYAGE TO 1779- March, thought that the prefent opportunitf? was not to be neglected, of driving Toneoneo entirely out of the ifland, and of advancing his ibn-in-law to the government. I have already had occafion to mention, that the goats, which had increafed to the number of fix, and would, probably, in a few years, have flocked all thefe iflands, were deftroyed in the conteft. Thurf. 4. On the 4th, the mother and fifter of the young prince and his father-in-law, with many other Chiefs of that party, came on board the Refolution, and made feveral curious and valuable prefents to Captain Clerke. Amongft the former, were fome fifh-hooks, which they af- fured us were made of the bones of our old friend Terreeoboo's father, who had been kiH44: in an unfuccefsful defcent upon the ifland of Woahoo ; and a fly flap, prefented to him by the prince's fifter, the handle of which was a human bone, that had been given her as a trophy by her father-in-law. Young Teavee was not of the company, being engaged, as we were told, in performing fome religious ceremonies, in confequence of the victory he had obtained, which were to laft twenty days. Friday 5. This, and the two following days, were em- Saturday ployed on fhore, in completing the Difcovery's 6. water; and the carpenters were bufy on board, in caulking the fhips, and in making otheif preparations for our next cruife. The natives de- fifted from giving us any further diiiurbance; and we procured from them a plentiful fupply of pork and vegetables. At this time, an Indian brought a piece of iron on board the Difcovery to be fafhioned into the fhape of a pahooa. It was carefully examined both by the officers and men, and appeared to be the bolt of fome large fhip timbers. They 1779- March. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 97 They were not able to difcover to what nation it belonged; but from the pale colour * of the iron, and its not correfponding in fhape to our bolts, they concluded that it certainly was not Engiifh. This led them to make a ftrict inquiry of the native, when and where he got ffj and if they comprehended him right, it had been taken out of a piece of timber, larger than the cable t)it, to which he pointed. This piece ,-$f;wood, they farther underftood from him, to have been driven upon their ifland, fines we were here in January 1778. On the 7th, we were furprized with a vifit Sunday from Toneoneo. When he heard the dowager ?• princefs was in the fhip, it was with great difficulty we could prevail on him to come on board, not from any apprehenfion that he appeared to entertain of his fafety, but from an unwillingnefs to fee her. Their meeting was with fulky aifd lowering looks on both fides. He flaid but a fhort time, and feemed much dejected_; but we remarked, with fome furprize, that the women, both at his coming and going away, proflrated themfelves before him; and that he was treated by all the natives on board with the refpect ufually paid to thofe of his rank. Indeed, it muft appear fomewhat extraordinary, that a perfon, who was at this time in a ftate of actual hoftility with Teavee's party, and was even prepared for another battle, fhould truft himfelf almoft alone within the power of his enemies. It is, therefore to be obferved, that the civil diffentions, which are very frequent throughout all theiSouth Sea Iflands, feem to be carried on without much acrimony or bloodfhed; and that the depofed governor -ftill continues to en- * It was evident, that the iron we found in pcfleflion \ of the natives at Nootka Sound, and which was moftly \ ' made into knives, was of a much paler fore than curs. Vol. Ilk H joy 1779. March. Monday Tuefday 9- Wed. to Thur. 11 Friday 12. ~ A VOYAGE TO joy the rank of an Eree, and is left to make ufe of fuch means as may arife for the regaining his loft confequence. But I fhall have occafion to fpeak more particularly on this fubject in the next chapter ; in which the beft account will be given, which we were able to collect, of the political ftate of thofe countries. On the 8th, at nine in the morning, we weighed, and failed toward Oneeheow; and, at three in the afternoon,- anchored in twenty fathoms water, nearly on the fame fpot as in the year 1778. We moored with the other anchor in twenty-fix fathoms water. The high bluff, on the South end of the ifland, bore Eaft South Eaft;. thi.North point of the road, North half Eaft ; and a bluff head to the South of it, North Eaft by North. During the night, we had a ftrong gale from the Eaftward ; and, in the morning of the 9th, found the fhip had driven a whole cable's length, and brought both anchors almoft ahead. We fhortened in the beft bower cable ; but the wind blowing too frefh to unmoor, we were obliged to remain this and the two following days, with the anchors ftill ahead. On the 12th, the weather being moderate, the mafter was fent to the North Weft fide of the ifland, to look for a more convenient place for anchoring. He returned in the evening, having found, clofe round the Weft point of the road where we now lay, which is. alfo the Wefternmoft point of the ifland, a fine bay, with good anchorage, in eighteen fathoms water, a clear fandy bottom, not a mile from the 'beach, on which the furf beats, but not fo as to hinder landing. The direction of the points of the bay were North by Eaft, and South by , Weft; and, in that line, the foundings feven, »eight, and nine fathoms. On the North fide of the bay was a fmall village ; and a quarter of THE PACIFIC OCEAN. of a mile to the Eaftward were four fmall wells of good water; the road to them level, and fit for rolling cafks. Mr. Bligh went afterward fo far to the North as to fatisfy himfelf, that Oree- houa was a feparate ifland from Oneeheow ; and that there was a paffage between them; which, before, we only conjectjlred^to exift. In the afternoon we hoifted in all the boats, and made ready for going to fea in the morning. ■ i&siyK 99 '779- March. •O I -Ufa/a am? I i'-# kcA :av oil 'j$i& §N* ■-,%m tti0l] % tbi^ ■'■"fel uRN^ H 2 CHAP. tit 50 Z i! •j zft'.1 rtvii nom>:fil , 1779' March. A VOYAGE TO CHAP. VI. General Account of the Sandwich Iflands.—Their Number, Names, andlSituation.'—Owhyhee. —Its Extent, and Dillon into Diftricls.—Account of its Coafts, and the adjacent Country.— Volcanic Appearances. — Snowy Mountains.— Their Height determined—Account of a Journey into the interior Parts of the Country.—Mowee. -—Tahoorowa. —Morotoi.— Ranai.— Woahoo.—■ Atooi.—Oneeheow.— Oree- houa. — Tahoor a.-— Climate. — Winds.—I Currents. — Tides. — Animals and Vegetables. — Aftronomical Obfervations. AS we are now about to take our final leave of the Sandwich Iflands, it will not be improper to introduce here fome general illr count of their fituation and natural hiftory, and of the manners and cuftoms of the inhabitants. This fubject has indeed been, in fome meafure, pre-occupied by perfons far more capable of doing it juftice, than I can pretend to* be. Had Captain Cook and Mr. Anderfon lived to avail themfelves of the advantages which we enjoyed by a return to thefe iflands, it cannot be queftioned, that the Public would have derived much additional information from the fkill and diligence of two fuch accurate obfervers. The reader will therefore lament with me our common misfortune, which hath deprived him of the labours of fuch fuperior abilities, and impofed on me the tafk of prefenting him with the beft fupolementary account the various duties of my ftation permitted me to furnifh. This. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. sot This group confifts of eleven iflands, extending in latitude from i8°54' to 22° 15' North; and in longitude from 199° 36' to 2050 06' Eaft. They are called by the natives ; 1. Owhyhee. 2. Mowee. 3. Ranai, or Oranai. 4. Mo- rotinnee, or Morokinnee. 5. Kahowrowefe* or Tahoorowa. 6. Morotoi, or Morokoi. 7. Woahoo, or Oahoo. 8. Atooi, Atowi, :-$: Towi, and fometimes Kowi *. 9. Neeheehow,, or Oneeheow. 10. Oreehoua, or" Reehoua-, and, 11. Tahoora ; and are all inhabited, excepting Morotinnee j|nd Tahoora. Befides the iflands above enumerated, we were told by the Indi- ~«tjj§V that there is another called Modoopapapa f, or Komodoopapapa, lying to the Weft South Weil of Tahoora, which is low and fandy, and vifited only for the purpofe of catching turtle and fea-fowl; and, as I could never learn that they knew of any others, it is probable that none exift in their neighbourhood. They were named by C%>tafin Cook the Sandwich Iflands, in Honour of the Eari. of SanBwich, under whofe adminiftration he had enriched geography with fo many fplendid and important difcoveries; a tribute juftly due to that noble perfon for the liberal fupport thefe voyages derived from his power, in whatever could extend thejfr utility, or promote their fuccefs ; for the zeal with which he feconded the views of that great navigator ; and if I may be allowed to add the voice of private gratitude, for the generous protection, which, fince the death of their unfortunate commander, he has afforded all the officers that ferved under him. 4779. March. * It is to he obferved, that, among the windward Iflands, the k is ufed inftead of the /, as Morokoi inftead of Morotoi, &c. T Modoofignifies ifland ; papapa, flat. This ifland is called Tatnmatapappa, by Captain Cook, vol. II. p. 222. Owlrvhee, toz A VOYAGE TO Owhyhee, the Eafternmoft, and by much the largeft, of thefe iflands, is of a triangular fhape, and nearly equilateral. The angular points make the North, Eaft, and, South extremities, of which the Northern is in latitude 20* 17' North, longitude 2040 o%' Eaft: the Eaftern in latitude 190 34'North, longitude 2050 06'Eaft; and the Southern extremity in latitude i8°54' North, longitude 2040 15' Eaft. Its greateft length, which lies in a direction nearly North and South, is 28 £ leagues ; its breadth is 24 leagues ; and it is abput 255 geographical, or 293 Engiifh mites, in circumference. The whole ifland is divided into fix large diftricts; Amakooa and Aheedoo, which lie on the North Eaft fide; Apoona and Kaoo on the South Eaft; Akona and Kooarra on the Weft. ■ The diftricts of Amakooa and Aheedoo are feparated by a mountain called Mouna Kaah (or the mountain Kaah), which rifes in three peaks, perpetually covered with fnow, and may be clearly feen at 40 leagues diftance. To the North of this mountain the coaft confifts of high and abrupt cliffs, down which fall many beautiful cafcades of water. We were once flattered with the hopes of meeting with a harbour round a bluff head, in latitude 200 10' North,- and longitude 204° -26'Eaft: but, on doubling the point, and ftanding clofe in, we found it connected by a low valley, with another high head to the North Weft. The country rifes inland with a gentle afcent, is interfered by deep narrow glens, or rather chafms, and appeared to be well cultivated and fprinkled over with a number of villages. The fnowy mountain is very fteep and the lower part of it covered with wood. The coaft of Aheedoo, which lies to the South of Mouna Kaah, is of a moderate height, and the interior parts appear more even than the eagues, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. the country to the North Weft, and lefs brpk§fjf by ravines. Off thefe two diftricts we cruized for almoft a month; and, whenever our diftance from fhore would permit it, were fure of being furrounded by canoes laden with all kinds of refrefhments. We had frequently a very hea,«jff fea, and great fwell on this fide of the ifland, and as we had no foundings, and could obferve miigbj foul ground off the fhore, we never approached- nearer the land than two or three excepting on the occafion already mentioned The coaft to the North Eaft of Apoonar which forms the Eaftern extremity of the ifland, is low and flat; the acclivity of the inland parts is very gradual, and the whole country covered with cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees. This, as far as we could judge, is the fineft part of the ifland, and we were afterward told that- the king had a place of refidence here. At the South Weft extremity the hills rife abruptly fr^gg the fea-fide, leaving but a narrow border of Iq^j ground toward the beach. We were pretty near ;fae fhore at this part of the ifland, and found? the fides of the hills covered with a fine verdiije^ but the country feemed to be very thinly inhs? bited. On doubling the Eaft point of the ifland, we came in fight of another fnowy mountain, called Mouna Roa (or the extenfive mountain), which continued to be a very confpicuous object all the while we. were failing along the South Eaft fide. It is flat at the top, making what is called by mariners table-land ; the fummit was conflantly buried in fnow, and we once faw its fides alfo flightly covered for a confiderable way down -, but the greateft part of this difappeared again in a few days. According to the tropical line of fnow, as determined by Mr. Condamine, fiom obfervations taken on the Cordilleras, this mounta.n muft be at leaft 16,020 feet high, which exceeds the to3 MJrch. »779- March. wm A VOYAGE TO the height of the Pico de Teyde, or Peak of Teneriffe, by 724 feet, according to Dr. He- berden's computation, or 3680, according to that of the Chevalier de Borda. The peaks of about half Mouna Kaah appeared to be about halt a mile high I and as they are entirely covered with fhow; the altitude of their fummits cannot be lefs than 18,400 feet. But it is probable that both thefe mountains may be confiderably higher. For, in infular fituations, the effects of the warm fea air muft neceffarily remove the line "Si equal latitudes, to a greater height than where the atmofphere is chilled on all fides by an immenfe tract of perpetual fnow. The coaft of Kaoo prefents a profpect of the moft horrid and' dreary kind : the whole country appearing to have undergone a total change from the effects of fome dreadful convulfion. The ground is every where covered withjxinders, and intersected in many places w|th black ftreaks, which feem to mark the courfe of a lava that has flowed, not many ages back, from the mountain Roa to the fhore. The Southern promon- looks like the mere dregs of a volcano. The projecting head land is compofed of broken and craggy rocks, piled irregularly on one anor ther, and terminating in fharp points. Notwithftanding the difmal afpect of this part of the ifland, there are many villages fcattered over it, and it certainly is much more populous than the verdant mountains of Apoona. Nor is this circumftance hard to be accounted for. As thefe iflanders have no cattle, they have con- fequently no ufe for paflurage, and therefore naturally prefer fuch ground, as either lies more convenient for fifhing, or is beft fuited to the cultivation of yams and plantains. Now amidft thefe ruins, there are many patches of rich foil, which THE PACIFIC OCEAN. which are carefully laid out in plantations, and the neighbouring fea abounds with a variety of moft excellent fifh, with which, as well as with other provifions, we were always plentifully fup- plied. Off this part of the coaft we could find no ground, at lefs than a cable's length froMi the fhore, with a hundred and fixty fathoms of line, excepting in a fmall bight to the Eaftward of the South point, where we had regular foundings of fifty and fifty-eight fathoms over a bottom of fine fand. Before we proceed to the weftern diftricts, it may be neceffary to remark, that the whole coaft fide of the ifland, from the Northern to the Southern extremity, doiB not afford the fmalleft harbour or fhelter for fhipping. The South Weft parts of Akona are t# the fame ftate with the adjoining diftrict of Kaoo -, but farther to the North, the country has been cultivated with great pains, and is extremely populous. In this part of the ifl||nd is fituated Karakakooa Bay, which has been already defcribed. Along the coaft nothing is feen but large maffes of flag, and the fragments of black fcorched rocks; behind which, the ground rifes gradually for about two miles and a half, and appears to have been formerly covered with loofe burnt ftones. Thefe the natives have taken the pains of clearing away, frequently to the depth of three feet and upward ; which labour, great as it is, the fertility of the foil amply repays. Here, in a rich afhy mould, they cultivate fweet potatoes, and the cloth-plant. The fields are inclofed with ftone-fences, and are interfperfed with groves of cocoa-nut trees. On the rifing ground beyond thefe, the bread-fruit trees are planted, and flourifh with the greateft luxuriance. Koaara extends from the Wefternmoft point to the Northern extremity of the ifland ; the whole 105 1779. March. io6 1779- March A VOYAGE TO whole coaft between them forming an extenfive bay, called Toe-yah-yah, which is bounded to the North by two very confpicuous hills. Toward the bottom of this bay there is foul, corally ground, extending upward of a mile from the fhore, without which the foundings are regular, with good anchorage, in twenty fathoms. The country, as far as the eye could reach, feemed fruitful and well inhabited, the foil being in appearance of the fame kind with the diilrict of Kaoo; but no frefh water is to be got here. I have hitherto confined myfelf to the coafts of this ifland, and the adjacent country, which is all that I had an opportunity of being acquainted with from rriy own obfervation. The only account I can give of the interior parts, is from the information I obtained from a party, who fet out, on the afternoon of the 26th of January, on an expedition up the country, with an intention of penetrating as far as they could ; and principally of reaching, if poffible, the fnowy mountains. Having procured two natives to ferve them as guides, they left the village about four o'clock in the afternoon, directing their courfe a little to the Southward of the Eaft. To the diftance of three or four miles from the bay, they found the country as before defcribed ; the hills afterward rofe with a more fudden afcent, which brought them to the extenfive plantations, that terminate the view of the country, as feen from the fhips. Thefe plantations confift of the * tarrow or eddy root, and the fweet potatoe, with plants of the cloth-tree, neatly fet out in rows. The walls that * Both the fweet potatoes, and the tarrow, are here planted four feet from each other : the former was earthed up almoft to the top of the ftalk, with about half a bufhe! •f light mould ; the latter is left bare to the root, and the I THE PACIFIC OCEAN. that feparate them are made of the loofe burnt ftones, which are got in clearing the ground; and, being entirely concealed by fugar-canes, planted clofe on each fide, make the moft beautiful fences that can be conceived. The party flopped for the night at the fecond hut they found amongft the plantations, where they judged themfelves to be about fix or feven miles from the fhips. They defcribed the profpect from this fpot as very delightful ; they faw the fhips in the bay before them ; to the left, a continued range of villages, interfperfed with groves of cocoa-nut trees, fpreading along the fea-fliore ; a thick wood ftretching out of fight behind them ; and to the right, an extent of ground laid out in regular and well cultivated plantations, as far as the eye could reach. Near this fpot, at a diftance from any other dwelling, the natives pointed out to them the refidence of an hermit, who, they faid, had formerly been a great Chief and warrior, but had-long ago quitted the fhores of the ifland, and now never flirred from his cottage. They prof- trated themfelves as they approached him, and afterward prefented to him a part of fuch provifions as they had brought with them. His behaviour was eafy and cheerful; he fcarce fhewed any marks of ailonilhment at the fight of our the mould round it is made in the form of a bafon, in order to hold the rain-water, as this root requires a certain degree of moifture. It has been before obferved, that the tarrow, at the Friendly and Society Iflands, was always planted in low and moift fituations, and generally, where there was the conveniency of a rivulet to flood it. It was imagined that this mode of culture was abfolutely neceflary ; but we now found, that, with the precaution above mentioned, it fucceeds equally well in a drier fituation : indeed, we all remarked, that the tarrow of the Sandwich Iflands is the beft we had ever tafted. The plantains are not admitted in thefe plantations, but grow amongft the bread-fruit trees. people, 107 1779. March. '779- March. A VOYAGE TO people, and though preffed to accept fome of our curiofities, he declined the offer, and foon withdrew to his cottage. He was deferibed as by far the oldeft perfon any of the party had ever feen, and judged to be, by thofe who computed his age at the loweft, upward of ioo years old. As our people had imagined the mountain not to be more than ten or twelve miles from the bay, and confequently, that they fhould reach it with eafe early the next morning, an error " into which its great height had probably led them, they were now much furprifed to find the diftance fcarce perceptibly diminifhed. This cir- cumftance, together with the uninhabited ftate of the country they were going to enter, made it neceffary to procure a fupply of provifions ; and for that purpofe they difpatched one of their guides back to the village. Whilft they were waiting his return, they were joined by fome of Kaoo's fervants, whom that benevolent old man had fent after them, as foon as he heard of their journey, laden with refrefhments, and authorized, as their route lay through his grounds, to demand and take away whatever they might have occafion for. Our travellers were much aftonifhed to find the cold here fo intenfe ; but having no thermometer with them, could judge of it dnly by their feelings; which, from the warm atmof- phere they had left, muft have been a very fallacious meafure. They found it, however, fo cold, that they could get but little fleep, and the natives none at all; both parties being difturbed, the whole night, by continued coughing. As they could not, at this time, be at any very confiderable height, the diftance from the fea being only fitf'or feven miles, and part of the road on a very moderate afcent, this extraordinary degree of cold muft be afcribed to the eafterly wind blowing frefh over the fnowy mountains. Early THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 109 Early on the 27th, they fet out again, and J779: filled their calibafhes at an excellent well about ,_ "1/^ half a mile from their hut. Having paffed the Saturday plantations, they came to a thick wood, which 27. they entered by a path made for the convenience of the natives, who go thither to fetch the wild or horfe-plantain, and to catch birds. Their prqgrefs now became very flow, and attended with much labour ; the ground being either fwampy, or covered with large ftones; the path narrow, and frequently interrupted by trees lying acrofs it, which it was neceffary to climb over, the thicknefs of the under-wood, on both fides, making it impoffible to pafs round them. In thefe woods they obferved, at fmall diftances, pieces of white cloth fixed on poles, which they fuppofed to be land-marks for the divifion of property, as they only met with them ifljfcere the wild plantains grew. The trees, which are of the fame kind with thofe we called the fpice-^ree at New Holland, were lofty and ftraight, and from two to four feet in circumference. After they had advanced about ten miles in the. wood, they had the mortification to find themfelves, on a fudden, within fight of the fea, and at no great diftance from it; the path having turned imperceptibly to the Southward, and carried them to the right of the mountain, which it was their object to reach. Their difappoint- ment was greatly increafed by the uncertainty they were now under of its true bearings, fince they could not, at this time, get a view of it from the top of the higheft trees. They, therefore, found themfelves obliged to walk back fix or feven miles to an unoccupied hut, where they had left three of the natives, and two of their own people, with the fmall flock that remained of their provifions. Here they fpent the fecond night ; and the air was fo very (harp, and fo little to the liking, 1 IO A VOYAGE TO 1779- liking of their guides, that, by the morning, Mar^* they had all taken themfelves off, except one. The want of provifions now making it necef- >C fary to return to fome of the cultivated parts of the ifland, they quitted the wood by the fame path they had entered it; and, on their arriytfl| at the plantations, were furrounded by the natives, of whom they purchafed a frefh flock of neceffaries; and prevailed upon two of them to fupply the place of the guides that were gone away. Having obtained the beft infcrmatwilfN in their power, with regard to the direction of their road, the party being now nine in number, marched along the fkirts of the wood for fix or feven miles, and then entered it again by a path that bore to the Eaftward. For the firft three miles, they paffed through a foreft of lofty fpice-trees, growing on a ftrong rich loam ; at the back of which they found an equal extent of low fhrubby trees, with much thick underwood, on a bottom of loofe burnt ftones. This led them to a fecond foreft of fpice-trees, and the fame rich brown foil, which was again fucceeded by a barren ridge of the fame nature with the former. This alternate fucceflion may, perhaps, afford matter of curious fpeculation to naturalifts. The only additional circumftance I could learn relating to it was, that thefe ridges appeared, as far as they could be feen, to run in directions parallel to the fea-fhore, and to have Mouna Roa for their centre. In paffing through the woods, they found many canoes half-finifhed ; and, here and there, a hut; but faw none of the inhabitants. Having penetrated near three miles into the fecond wood, they came to two huts, where they flopped, exceedingly fatigued with the day's journey, having walked not lefs than twenty miles, according to their own computation. As they had met with no fprings, from the time they left the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Hi the plantation-ground, and began to fuffer 1779. much from the violence of their thirft, they March. were obliged, before the night came on, to feparate into parties, and go in fearch of water; and, at lait, found fome, left by rain in the bottom of an unfinifhed canoe ; which, though of the colour of red wine, was to them no unwelcome difcovery. In the night, the cold was ftill more intenfe than they had found it before ; and though they had wrapped themfelves up in mats and cloths of the country, and kept a large fire between the two huts, they could yet fleep but very little ; and were obliged to walk about the greateft part of the night. Their elevation was now probably pretty confiderable, as the ground on which they had travelled had been generally on the afcent. On the 29th, at day-break, they fet out, intending to make their laft and utmoft effort to reach the fnowy mountain ; but their fpirits were much depreffed, when they found they had expended the miferable pittance of water they had found the night before. The path, which extended no farther than where canoes had been built, was now at an end; and they were therefore obliged to make their way as' well as they could; every now and then climbing up into the higheft trees, to explore the country round. At eleven o'clock, they came to a ridge of burnt ftones, from the top of which they faw the fnowy mountain, appearing to be about twelve or fourteen miles from them. It was here deliberated, whether they fhould proceed any further, or reft fatisfied with the view they now had of Mouna Koa. The road, ever fince the path ceafed, had become exceedingly fatiguing; and every moment they ad vanced, was growing ftill more fo. The deep chinks, with which the ground was every wtierc A VOYAGE TO where broken, being flightly covered with mofs, j made them ftumble at almoft every ftep ; and the intermediate fpace was a furface of loofe burnt ftones, which broke under their feet like potflierds. They threw ftones into feveral of thefe chinks ; which, by the noife they made, feemed to fall to a confiderable depth, and the ground founded hollow under their feet. Befides thefe difcouraging circumftances, they found their guids fo averfe to going on, that they believed, whatever their own determinations might have been, they could not have prevailed on them to remain out another night. They, therefore, at laft agreed to return to the fhips, after taking a view of the country, from the higheft trees which the place afforded. From this elevation they faw themfelves furrounded, on all fides, with wood toward the fea ; they could not dif- tinguifh, in the horizon, the iky from the water ; and between them and the fnowy mountain, was a valley about feven or eight miles broad, above which the mountain appeared only as a hill of a moderate fize. They refted this night at a hut in the fecond wood, and on the 30th, before noon, they had got clear of the firft, and found themfelves about nine miles to the North Eaft of the fhips, toward which they directed their march through the plantations. As they paffed along, they did not obferve a fingle fpot of ground, that was capable of improvement, left unplanted ; and, indeed, it appeared, from their account, hardly poffible for the country to be cultivated to greater advantage for the purpofes of the inhabitants, or made to yield them a larger fupply of neceffaries for their fubfiftence. They were furprized to meet with feveral fields of hay; and on inquiring to what ufes it was applied, were told, it was defigned to cover the young tarrow grounds, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. grounds* in order to preferve them from being fcorched by the fun. They faw a few fcattered. huts amortgft the plantations, which ferved for occasional fhelter to the labourers; but no villages at a greater diftance than four or five miles from the fea. Near one of them, about four miles from the bay, they found a cave, forty fathoms long, three broad, and of the fame height. It was open at both ends; the fides were fluted, as if wrought with a chiffel, and the furface glazed over, probably by the action of fire. Having given this account of the moft material circumftances that occurred on the expedition to the fnowy mountain, I fhall now return to the other iflands that remain to be defcribed. The ifland next in fize, and neareft in fituation, to Owhyhee, is Mowee ; which lies at the diftance of eight leagues North North Weft from the former, and is 14.0 geographical miles in circumference. A low ifthmus divides it into two circular peninfulas, of which that to the Eaft is called Whamadooa, and is double the fize of the Weftern peninfula called Owhyrookoo. The mountains in both rife to an exceeding great height, having been feen by us at the diftance of upward of thirty leagues. The Northern ftiores, like thofe of Owhyhee, afford no foundings ; and the country prefents the fame appearance of verdure and fertility. To the South Eaft, between this and the adjacent ifles, we had regular depths with a hundred and fifty fathoms, with a fandy bottom. From the Weft point, which is low, runs a fhoal, ftretching out toward Ranai, to a confiderable diftance; and to the Southward of this, is a fine fpacious bay, with a fandy beach, fhaded with cocoa-nut trees. It is probable that good anchorage might be found here, with fhelter from the prevailing Yol. III. I winds, 1779. March. 1779- March. A VOYAGE TO wi&ds, and that the beach affords % convenient place for landing. The country bdtiihd prefents; a moft romantic appearance. The hills rife almoft perpendicularly, in a great variety of peaked forms ; and their fteep fides, and the deep chafrhs between them, are covered with trees, amongft which thofe of the bread-fruit were obferved particularly to abound. The tops of thefe hills are entirely bare, and of a reddifh brown coloun We v/ere informed by the natives, that there is an harbour to the Southward of the Eaft point, which they affirmed to be fuperiour to that of Karakakooa ; and we were told, that, on the North Weft fide, there was another harbour, called Keepoo-keepoo. Tahoorowa is a fmall ifland lying off the South Weft part of Mowee, from which it is diftant three leagues. This ifland is deftitute of wood, and the foil feems to be fandy and barren. Between Tahowrowa and Mowee lies the fmall uninhabited ifland Morrotinnee. Morotoi is only two leagues and a half from Mowee to the WTeft North Weft. The South Weftern coaft, which was the only part near whicn we approached, is very low ; but the land rifes backward to a confiderable height and, at the diftance from which we faw it, appeared to be entirely without wood. Its produce, we were told, confifts chiefly of yams. It may, probably, have frefh water, and, on the South and Weft fides, the coaft forms feveral bays, that promife good fhelter from the trade winds. Ranai is about three leagues diftant from Mowee and Morotoi, and lies to the South Weft of the paffage between thefe iflands. The country, to the South, is high and craggy; but the other parts of the ifland had a better af- and appeared to be well inhabited. We were THE PACIFIC OCEAN. were told that it produces very few plantains, and bread-fruit trees; but that it abounds in roots, fuch as yams, fweet potatoes, and tarrow. Woahoo lies to the North Weft of Morotoi, at the diftance of about feven leagues. As far as we could judge, from the appearance of the North Eaft and North Well parts (for we faw nothing of the Southern fide), it is by far the fineft ifland of the whole group. Nothing can exceed the verdure of the hills, the variety of wood and lawn, and rich cultivated vallies, which the whole face of the country difplayed. Having already given a defcription of the bay, formed by the North and Weft extremities, in which we came to anchor, I have only to obferve, that in the bight of the bay, to the South of the anchoring-place, we found rocky foul ground, two miles from the fhore. Should the ground tackling, of a fhip be weak, and the wind blow ftrong from the North, to which quarter the road is entirely open, this circum- flance might be attended with fome danger ; but with good cables there would be little rifk, s the ground from the anchoring-place, which is oppofite to the valley through which the river runs, to the North point, is a fine fand. Atooi lies to the North Weft of Woahoo, and is diftant from it about twenty-five leagues. The face of the country to the North Eaft and North Weft, is broken and ragged ; but to the South it is more even ; the hills rife with a gentle flope from the fea-fide, and, at fome diftance back, are covered with wood. Its productions are the fame with thofe of the other iflands; but the inhabitants far furpafs all the neighbouring iflanders in the management of their plantations. In the low grounds, adjoining to the bay where we lay at anchor, thefe plantations were divided I 2 by 115 1779. March. A VOYAGE TO by deep and regular ditches; the fences were made with a neatnefs approaching to elegance, and the roads through them were thrown up and finifhed, in a manner that would have done credit to any European engineer. Oneeheow lies five leagues to the Weftward of Atooi. The Eaftern coaft is high, and rifes abruptly from the fea, but the reft of the ifland confifts of low ground ; excepting a round bluff head on the South Eaft point. It produces abundance of yams, and of the fweet root called Tee; but we got from it no other fort of provifions. Oreehoua, and Tahoora, are two fmall iflands in the neighbourhood of Oneeheow. The former is a fingle high hummock, joined by a preef of coral rocks to the Northern extremity of Oneeheow. The latter lies to the South Eaft, and is uninhabited. The climate of the Sandwich Iflands differs very little from that of the Weft India Iflands, which lie in the fame latitude. Upon the whole, perhaps, it may be rather more temperate. The thermometer, on fhore in Karakakooa Bay never rofe higher than 88°, and that but one day ; its mean height, at noon, was 830. In Wymoa Bay, its mean height at noon was 7 6°, and when out at fea, 750. The mean height of the thermometer at noon, in Jamaica, is about 86% at fea 8o°. Whether they be fubject to the fame violent winds and hurricanes, we could not difcover, as we were not- there in any of the ftormy months. However, as the natives gave us no pofitive teftimony of the fact, and no traces of their effects were any where vifible, it is .probable that, in this refpect, they refemble the Society and Friendly Iflands, which are, in THE PACIFIC OCEAN. in a great meafure, free from thefe dreadful vifitations. During the four winter months fikt we remained amongft thefe iflands, there .was more rain, efpecially in the interior parts, than ufually falls during the dry feafon in the iflands of the Weft Indies. We generally faw clouds collecting round the tops of the hills, and producing rain to leeward; but after they are feparated from the land by the wind, they difperfe, and are loft, and others fucceed in their place. This happened daily at Owhyhee: the mountainous parts being generally enveloped in a cloud ; fucceffive fhowers falling in the inland country ; with fine weather, and a clear fky at the fea- fhore. The winds in general were, from Eaft South Eaft to North Eaft; though this fometimes va- jjgd a few points each way to the North and South; but thefe were light, and of fhort duration. In the harbour of Karakakooa, we had a conftant land and fea-breeze every day and night. The currents feemed very uncertain; fometimes fetting to windward ; and, at other times, to leeward, without any regularity. They did not appear to be governed by the winds, nor any other caufe that I can affign : they frequently fet to windward againft a frefh breeze. The tides are very regular, flowing and ebbing fix hours each. The flood comes from 4he Eaftward; and it is high water at the full and change of the moon, forty-five minutes paft three, apparent time. Their greateft rife is two feet feven inches ; and we always obferved the water to be four inches higher when the moon was above the horizon, than when it was below. The quadrupeds in thefe, as in all the other iflands that have been difcovered in the South fea, 117 1779- March. US 1779- March. «_ A VOYAGE TO fea, are confined to three forts, dogs, hogs, and rats. The dogs are of the fame fpecies with ' thofe of Otaheite, having, ihort crooked legs, long backs, and pricked ears. I did not obferve any variety in them, except in their fkins; fome having long and rough hair, and others being quite fmooth. They are about the fize of a common turnfpit; exceedingly fluggifh in their nature ; though perhaps this may be more owing to the manner in which they are treated, than to any natural difpofition in them. They are, in general, fed, and left to herd, with the hogs; and I do not recollect one inftance in which a dbg was made a companion in the manner we do in Europe. Indeed, the cuftom of eating them is an infuperable bar to their admiffion into fociety, and as there are neither beafts of prey in the ifland, nor objects of chace, it is probable, that the focial qualities of the dog, it's fidelity, attachment, and faga- city, will remain unknpwn to the natives. . The number of dogs in thefe iflands did not appear to be nearly equal, in proportion, to thofe in Otaheite. But on the other hand, they abound much more in hogs; and the breed is of a larger and weightier kind. The fupply of provifions of this kind, which we got from them, was really aftonifhing. We were near four months, either cruifing off the coaft, or in harbour at Owhyhee. During all this time, a large allowance of frefh pork was conftantly ferved to both crews; fo that our confumption was computed at about fixty puncheons of five hundred weight each. Befides this, and the incredible wafte which, in the rnidft of fuch plenty, was not to be guarded againft, fixty puncheons more were falted for fea ilore. The greateft part of this fupply was drawn from the ifland of Owhyhee jilone, and yet we could not perceive that THE PACIFIC OCEA 119 that it was at all drained, or even that the abundance had any way decreafed. The birds of thefe iflands are as beautiful as any we have feen during the voyage, and are numerous, though not various. There are four, which feem to belong to the trochili, or honey- fuckers of Linnaus^ one of which is fomething larger than a bullfinch ; its colour is a fine gloffy black, the rump-vent and thighs a deep yellow. It is called by the natives hoohoo. Another is of an exceeding bright fcarlet colour % the wings black, and edged with white \ and the tail black ; its native name is eeeeve. A third, which feems to be either a young bird, or a variety of the foregoing, is variegated with red, brown, and yellow. The fourth is entirely green, with a tinge of yellow, and is called ■akaiearooa. There is a fpecies of trufli, with a grey breaft; and a fmall bird of the flycatcher kind; a rail, with very fhort wings and no tail, which, on that account, we named rallus ecaudo- tus. Ravens are found here, but they are very fcarce ; their colour is dark brown, inclining to black ; and their note is different from the European. Here are two fmall birds, both of one genus, that are very common; one is red, and generally feen about the cocoa-nut trees, particularly when they are in flower, from whence it feems to derive great part of its fubfiftence ; the other is green -, the tongues of both are long and ciliated, or fringed at the tip. A bird with a yellow head, which, from the ftructure of its beak, we called a parroquet, is likewife very common. It, however, by no means belongs to that tribe, but greatly refembles the lexia fta- vicans, or yellowifh crofs-bill of Linnxus. »779- MaTch. Here 120 A VOYAGE TO '779- March. Here are alfo owls, plovers of two forts, one very like the whiffling plover of Europe; a large w*h'rte pigeon; a bird with a long tail, whofe colour is black, the vent and feathers under the wing (which is much longer than is ufually feen in the generality of birds, except the birds of paradife) are yellow; and the common water or darker hen. Their vegetable productions are nearly the fame with the reft of the South-fea iflands. I have before mentioned, that the tarrow root is much fuperiour to any we had before tafted, and that we attributed this excellence to the dry method of cultivating it. The bread-fruit trees thrive here, not in fuch abundance, but produce double the quantity of fruit they do on the rich plains of Otaheite. The trees are nearly of the fame height-, but the branches begin to ftrike out from the trunk much lower, and with greater luxuriance. Their fugar- canes are alfo of a very unufual fize. One of them was brought to us at Atooi, meafuring eleven inches and a quarter in circumference; and haying fourteen feet eatable, At Oneeheow they brought us feveral large roots of a brown colour, fhaped like a yam, and from fix to ten pounds in weight. The juice, which it yields in great abundance, is very fweet, and of a pleafant tafte, and was found to be an excellent fubftitute for fugar. The natives are very fond of it, and ufe it as an article of their common diet; and our peo-r pie alfo found it very palatable and wholefome. We could not learn to what fpecies of plant it belonged, having never been able to procure the leaves \ but it was fuppofed, by our bota- nifts, to be the root of fome kind of fern. Agreeably THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Agreeably to the practice of Captain Cook, I fhall fubjoin an abftradlgw the aftronomical observations which were made at the obfervatory ifi Karakakooa Bay, for determining its latitude and longitude, and for finding the rate and error of the time-keeper. To thefe are fubjoined the mean variation of the compafs, the dip of the magnetic needle, and a table of the latitude and longitude of the Sandwich Iflands. The latitude of the obfervatory, deduced from meri- dian zenith diftances of the fun, eleven liars to the South, and four itars to the North of the zenith - 190 28' o" North, The longitude of the obfervatory, deduced from 253 fets of lunar obfervations; each fet confiding of fix obferved diftances of the fun from the moon, or ftars; 14 of the above fets were only taken at the obfervatory, 105 fets being taken whilft cruizing off Owhyhee ; and 134 fets, when at Atooi and Oneeheow ; all thefe being reduced to the obfervatory, by means of the timekeeper - - - 204' o' o" Eaft. The longitude of the obfervatory, by the time-keeper, on the 19th January 1779, according to its rate, as found at Greenwich - 2140 7' 15" Eaft. The longitude of the obfervatory, by the time-keeper, on the igth January 1779, 121 1779; March. according to its rate, cor rected A VOYAGE TO redted at different places, and laft at Samganoodha Harbour, in Oonalafchka 2030 The daily rate of the timekeeper lofing on mean time, was 9", 6; and on the 2d February 1779, it was i4h 41' i' flow for meantime. The variation of the compafs, by azimuths obferved on fliore, with four different compaffes The variation of the compafs, by azimuths, obferved on board the Refolution, with four different compafles - Dip of the North "1 Balanced needle lanced plain sdle Dip of the North-% pole of the mag- / Bal netic needle on f U: board, with J 37' 22' Eaft. 8° & o" Eaft. 70 32' o" Eaft 400 2*' 30'' 400 41' 15 43" Jip of the North "1 Balanced needle "\ poleofthe'rnag- (Unbalanced ( netic needle on j or plain C fhore, with J needle J ilanced needle ^41° 50* nbaianced > needle J 4°° 3°' A Table of the Latitude and Longitude of the Sandwich Iflands. Latitude. f The North point 200 17' Owhvhee )South P°int l8° 54' Uwnynee <Eaftpoint IQo ^ (.Karakakooa Bay 190 28' Mowee ^ Eaft point 200 50' -j South point - 200 34' t Weft point - so° 54' Morokinnee - - 200 39' Tahoorowa - - 200 38' Ranai. South point - 200 46' Morotoi. Weft point - 210 10' Longitude. 2040 Z' 204° 2O50 204° 2Q40 2030 2030 2030 33' 203° 27' 203 202 i5' 6' O' 4' 48' 24' 8' 46' Woahoo* THE PACIFIC OCEAN Latitude. Woahoo; Anchoring-place 2i° 43' Atooi. WymoaBay - - 21° 57' Oneeheow. Anchoring-place 210 50' Oreehoua - - - 22 2 Tahoora - - - 210 43' Longitude. 202Q 9' i779- March 200° 20' * 199° 45' 199° 52' 199° 36' C H A P. *! A VOYAGE TO C H A fC VII. General Account of the Sandwich Iflands continued. —Of the Inhabitants.—Their Origin.—Perfons. —Pernicious Effecls of the Ava.—Numbers.—» Difpofition and Manners.—Reafons for fuppoflng them not Cannibals.—Drefs and Ornaments.*— Villages and Houfes.—Food.—Occupations and Amufements.—Addicled to Gaming.—Their extraordinary Dexterity in Swimming.—Arts and Manufactures.—Curious Specimens of their Sculpture.—Kipparee, or Method of painting Cloth. —Mats. — Fifhing Hooks. — Cordage. — Salt Pans.—Warlike Inftruments. r~T~* H E inhabitants of the Sandwich Iflands A are undoubtedly of the fame race with thofe of New Zealand, the Society and Friendly Iflands, Eafter Ifland, and the Marquefas; a race that poffefles, without any intermixture, all the known lands between the latitudes of 470 South, and 200 North, and between the longitudes of 1840 and 260 Eaft. This fact, which, extraordinary as it is, might be thought fuffi- ciently proved by the ftriking fimilarity of their manners and cuftoms, and the general refemblance of their perfons, is eftablifhed, beyond ail controverfy, by the abfolute identity of their language. From what continent they originally emigrated, and by what fteps they have fpread through fq vaft a fpace, thofe who are curious in THE PACIFIC OCEAN. in difquifitions of this nature, may perhaps not find it very difficult to conjecture. It has been already obferved, that they bear ftrong marks of affinity to fome of the Indian tribes, that inhabit the Ladrones and Caroline Iflands ; and the fame affinity may again be traced amongft the Battas and the Malays. When thefe events happened, is not fo eafy to afcertain ; it was probably not very lately, as they are extremely populous, and have no tradition of their own origin, but what is perfectly fabulous; whilft, on the other hand, the unadulterated ftate of their general language, and the fimplicity which ftill prevails in their cuftoms and manners, feem to indicate, that it could not have been at any very diftant period. The natives of thefe iflands are, in general, above the middle fize, and well made; they walk very gracefully, run nimbly, and are capable of bearing great fatigue ; though, upon the whole, the men are fomewhat inferior, in point of ftrength and activity, to the Friendly iflanders, and the women lefs delicately limbed than thofe of Otaheite. Their complexion is rather darker than that of the Otaheiteans, and they are not altogether fo handfome a people. However, many of both fexes had fine open countenances ; and the women, in particular, had good eyes and teeth, and a fweetnefs and fenfibility of look, which rendered them very engaging. Their hair is of a brownifh black, and neither uniformly ftraight, like that of the Indians of America, nor uniformly - curling, as amongft the African negroes, but varying, in this refpect, like the hair of Europeans. One ftriking peculiarity, in the features of every part of this great nation, I do not remember to have feen any where mentioned ; which is, that, even in '779' March. A VOYAGE TO in the handfbmeft faces, there is always a fulnefs of the* n&flril, without any flatnefs or threading of the nofe, that diftinguifhes them from Europeans. It is not improbable that this may be the effect of their ufual mode of falutation, which is performed by preffing the ends of their nofes together. The fame fuperiority that ^ obfervable in the perfons of the Erees, through all the other iflands, is found alfo here. Thofe whom we" faw were, without exception, perfectly well formed; whereas the lower fort, befides their general inferiority, are fubject to all the variety of make and figure that is feen in the populace of other countries. Inftances of deformity are more frequent here, than in any of the other iflands. Whilft we were cruifing off Owhyhee, two dwarfs came on board, one an old man, four feet two inches high, but exactly proportioned, and the other a woman, nearly of the fame height. We afterward faw three natives, who were hump-backed, and a young man, born without hands or feet. Squinting is alfo very common amongft them; and a man, who, they faid, had been born blind, was brought to us to be cured. Befides thefe particular imperfections, they are, in general, very fubject to boils and ulcers, which we attributed to the great quantity of fait they eat with their flefh and fifh. The Erees are very free from thefe complaints; but many of them fuffer ftill more dreadful effects from the immoderate ufe of the ava. Thofe who were the moft affected by it, had their bodies covered with a white fcurf, their eyes red and inflamed, their limbs emaciated, the whole frame trembling and paralytic, accompanied with a difability to raife the head. Though this drug does not appear univerfally to fhorten life, as was evident from the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. the cafes of Terreeoboo, Kaoo, and fome other Chiefs, who were very old men; yet if invari- , ably brings on an early and decrepid old age. It is fortunate, that the ufe of it is made one of the peculiar privileges of the Chiefs. The young fon of Terreeoboo, who was about twelve years old, ufed to boaft of his being admitted to drink ava, and fhewed us, with great triumph, a fmall fpot in his fide that was growing fcaly. There is fomething very fingular in the hiftory of this pernicious drug. When Captain Cook firft vifited the Society Iflands, it was very little known among them. On his fecond voyage, he found the ufe of it very prevalent at Ulietea; but it had ftill gained very little ground at Otaheite. When we were laft there, the dreadful havock it had made was beyond belief, info- much that the Captain fcarce knew many of his old acquaintances. At the Friendly Iflands, it is alfo conftantly drunk by the Chiefs, but fo much diluted with water, that it does not appear to produce any bad effects. At Atooi, alfo, it is ufed with great moderation, and the Chiefs are, in confequence, a much finer fet of men there, than in any of the neighbouring iflands. We remarked, that, by difcontinuing the ufe of this root, the noxious effects of it foon wore off. Our good friends, Kaireekeea and old Kaoo, were perfuaded by us to refrain from it; and they recovered amazingly during the fhort time we afterward remained in the ifland. It may be thought extremely difficult to form any probable conjectures refpedting the population of iflands, with many parts of which we are but imperfectly acquainted. There are, however, two circumftances, that take away much 127 1779- March. ■779- March. A V O Y AG E T O much of this objection; the firft is, tMat the interior parts of the country are entirely uninhabited j fo that, if the number of the inhabit tants along the coaft be known, the whole will be pretty accurately determined. The otherjsis that there are no towns of any confiderable fize, the habitations of the natives being pretty equally difperfed in fmall villages round all their coafts. It is on this ground that I fhall venture at a rough calculation of the number of perfons in this group of iflands. The bay of Karakakooa, in Owhyhee, is three miles in extent, and contains four villages of about eighty houfes each; upon an average, in all three hundred and twenty; befides a number of ftraggling houfes ; which may make the whole amount to three hundred and fifty. From the frequent opportunities I had of informing myfelf on this head, I am convinced, that fix perfons to a houfe is a very moderate allowance; fo that, on this calculation, the country about the bay contains two thoufand one hundred fouls. To thefe may be added fifty families, or three hundred perfons, which I conceive to be nearly the number employed in the interior parts of the country amongft their plantations ; making in all two thoufand four hundred. If, therefore, this number be applied to the whole extent of coaft round the ifland, deducting a quarter for the uninhabited parts, it will be found to contain one hundred and fifty thou- fimd. By the fame mode of calculation, the reft of the iflands will be found to contain the following numbers: Owhyhee, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ^Owhyhee, Mowee, Woahoo, Atooi, Morotoi, Oneeheow, Ranai, Oreehoua, Total of inhabitants, 150,000 65,400 60,200 - 54>ooc> 36,000 10,000 20,400 4,000 400,000 «2§ 1779- March. I am pretty confident, that, in this calculation, I have not exceeded the truth in the total amount. If we compare the numbers fuppofed to be in Owhyhee, with the population of Otaheite, as fettled by Dr. Fofter, this computation will be found very low. The proportion of coaft, in the latter ifland, is, to that of Owhyhee, only as one to three : the number of inhabitants in Otaheite he ftates to be one hundred and t wenty-one thoufand five hundred ; though, according to his own principles, it fhould be double that amount. Again, if we compare it with the medium population of the countries in Europe, the proportion will be in favour of the latter nearly as two to one. Notwithttanding the irreparable lofs we fuffered from the hidden refentment and violence of thefe people, yet, in juflice to their general conduct, it muft be acknowledged, that they are of the moil mild and affectionate difpofition ; equally remote from the extreme levity and ficklenefs of the Otaheiteans, and the diftant gravity and referve of the inhabitants of the Friendly Iflands. They appear to live in the utmoil harmony and friendfhip with one another. The women, who had children, were remarkable for their tender and conftant attention to them; and the men would often lend their Vol. III. K affiftance 1779- March. A VOYAGE TO affiftance in thofe domeftic offices, with a willing- nefs that does credit to their feelings. It muft, however, be obfeved, that the^ fall very fhort of the other iflanders, in that beft teft of civilization, the refpect paid to the women. Here they are not only deprived of the privilege of eating with the men, but the beft forts of food are tabooed, or forbidden them. They are not allowed to eat pork, turtle, feveral kinds of fifh, and fome fpecies of the plantains ; and we were told that a poor girl got a terrible beating, for having eaten, on board our flip, one of thefe Igfferdicted articles. In their domeftic life, they appear to live almoft entirely by themfelves, alld though we did not obferve any inftances of perfonal ill-treatment, yet it was evident they had little regard or attention paid them. The great hofpitality and kindnefs, with which we were received by them, have been already frequently remarked ; and indeed lafey make the SQncipai part of our tranfactions with them. Whenever we came on fhore, there was a con- ftant ftruggle who fhould be moft forward in making us little prefents, bringing refrefhments, or fhewing fome other mark of their refpect. The old people never failed of ^eceivinjg us with tears of joy ; feemed highly gratified with being allowed to touch us, and were conftantly making comparifons between themfelves and us, with the ftrongeft marks of humility. The young women were not lefs kind and engaging, and, till they found, notwithftanding our utmoft endeavours to prevent it, that they had reafon to repent of our acquaintance, attached themfelves ' to us without the leaft referve. In juilice, however, to the fex, it muft be obferved, that thefe ladies were probably all of the lower clafs of the people; for I am ftrongly inclined to 'believe, that, excepting the few, whofe THE PACIFIC OCEAN. whofe names are mentioned in the courfe of our narrative, we did not fee any woman of rank during our flay amongft them. Their natural capacity feems, in no refpect, below the common ftandard of mankind. Their improvements in agriculture, and the perfection of their manufactures, are certainly adequate to the circumftances of their fituation, and the natural advantages they enjoy. The eager curiofity, with which they attended the armourer's forge, and the many expedients they had invented, even before we left the iflands, for working the iron they had procured from us, into fuch forms as were beft adapted to their purpofes, were ftrong proofs of docility and ingenuity. - Our unfortunate friend, Kaneena, poffeffed a degree of judicious curiofity, and a quicknefs of conception, which was rarely met with amongft thefe people. He was very inquifitive after our cuftoms and manners; afked after our King ; the nature of our government; our numbers ; the method of building our fhips ; our houfes ; the produce of our country ; whether we had wars ; with whom -, and on what occafions ; and in what manner they were carried on ; who was our God ; and many other quef- tions of the fame nature, which indicated an un- derftanding of great comprehenfion. We met with two inftances of perfons dif- ordered in their minds, the one a man at Owhyhee, the other a woman at Oneeheow. It appeared, from the particular attention and refpect paid to them, that the opinion of their being inspired by the Divinity, which obtains among moft of the nations of the Eaft, is alfo received here. Though the cuftom, of eating the bodies of their enemies, be not known, by pofitive evi- K 2 dence, i3i 1779- March. »32 1779. March. A VOYAGE TO dence, to^exift in any of the South Sea Iflands, except New Zealand, yet it is extremely probable, that it was originally prevalent in them alh The facrificing human victims, which feems evidently to be a relick of this horrid practice, j|j|l" obtains univerfally amongft thefe iflanders I and it is eafy to conceive, why the New Zealanders fhould retain the repaft, which was probably the laft act of thefe fhocking rites, longer than the reft of their tribe, who were fituated in more mild and fruitful ^climates. As the inhabitants of the Sandwich Iflands certainly bear a nearer refemblance to thofe of New Zealand, both in their perfons and difpofition, than to any other people of this family, fo it was ftrongly fufpected, by Mr. Anderfon, that, like them, they ftill continue tofeaft on human flefh. The evidence, on which he founds this opinion, has been Hated very fully in the tenth chapter of the third book * ; but, as I always entertained great doubts of the juftice of his conclufions, it may not be improper to take this occafion of<»^j|tion- ing the grounds on which I ventpre to differ from him. With refpect to the information derived from the natives themfelves, I fhall only obferve, that great pains were taken, by almoft every officer on board, to come at the knowledge of fo curious a circumftance; and that, except in the two inftances mentioned by Mr. Anderfon, we found them invariably denying the exiftence of any fuch cuftom amongft them. It muft be allowed, that Mr. Anderfon's knowledge of their language, which was fuperior to that of any other perfon in either fhip, ought certainly to give his opinion great weight; at the fame time, I muft beg leave to remark, that, being prefent when he examined the man who had the fmall * See Vol II. p. 209, 210—214. piece THE PACIFIC OCEAN. piece of falted flefh wrapped in cloth, it ftruck sbqL very forcibly, that the figns he made ufe of meant nothing more, than that it was intended to be eat, and that it was very pleafant or wholefome to the ftomach. In this opinion I was confirmed, by a circumftance which came to our knowledge, after the death of my; worthy and ingenious friend, viz. that almoft every native of thefe iflands carried about with him, either in his cali- bafh, or wrapped up in a piece of cloth, and tied about his waift, a fmall piece of raw pork, highly falted, which they confidered as a great delicacy, and ufed now and then to tafte of. With refpect to the confufion the young lad was in (for he was not more than fixteen or eighteen years of age), no one could have been furprized at it, who had feen the eager and earneft manner in which Mr. Anderfon queftioned him. The argument drawn from the inftrument made with fhark's teeth, and which is nearly of the fame form with thofe ufed at New Zealand for cutting up the bodies of their enemies, is much more difficult to controvert. I believe it to be an undoubted fact, that this knife, if it may be fo called, is never ufed by them in cutting the flefh of other animals. However, as the cuftom of offering human facrifices, and of burning the bodies of the flain, is ftill prevalent here, it is not improbable, that the ufe of this inftrument is retained in thofe ceremonies. Upon the whole, I am ftrongly inclined to think, and particularly from this laft circumftance, that the horrid practice, in queflion, has but lately ceafed amongft thefe and other iflands of the South Sea. Omai, when preffed on this fubject, confuted, that, in the rage and fury of revenge, they would fometimes tear the flefh of their enemies, that were flain, with their teeth;. but pofitively denied that they evereat it. This was certainly «3S '779- Sitfch;;.- 1779- March. felling >-f -A VOYAGE TO certainly approaching as near the fact as could be ; but, on the other hand, the denial is a ftrong proof that the practice has actually ceafed ; fince in New Zealand, where it ftill exifts, the inhabitants never made the fmalleft fcruple of con- it. The inhabitants of thefe iflands differ from thofe of the Friendly Ifles, in fuffering, almoft univerfally, their beards to grow. There were, indeed, a few, amongft whom was the old king, that cut it off entirely ; and others that wore it only upon the upper lip. The fame variety, in the manner of wearing the hair, is alfo obferva- ble here, as among the other iflanders of the South Sea ; befides which, they have a fafhion, as far as we know, peculiar to themfelves. They cut it clofe oh each fide the head, down to the ears, leaving a ridge, of about a fmall hand's breadth, running from the forehead to the neck; which, when the hair is thick and curling, has the form of the creft of the ancient helm^p Others wear large quantities of falfe hair,&flow- ing down their backs in long ringlets," like the figure of the inhabitants of Horn Ifland, as feen in Dalrymple's Voyages; and others, again, tie it into a fingle round bunch on the top of the head, almoft as large as the head itfelf; and fome into five or fix diftinct bunches. They their hair with a grey clay, mixed with powdered fhells, which they keep in balls, and chew into a kind of foft pafle, when they have occafion to make ufe of it. This keeps the hair fmooth ; and, in time, changes it to a pale yellow colour. Both fexes wear necklaces, made of firings of fmall variegated fhells ; and an ornarhent, in the form of the handle of a cup, about two inches and half an inch broad, made )f wood, ftone, h THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ftone, or ivory, finely poIMied, which is hung about the neck, by fine threads of twilled hair, doubled fometimes an hundred fold. Inftead of this ornament, fome of them wear, on their breaft, a fmall human figufi^ made of bone, fuf- pended in the fame mannefc,^ The fan, or fly-flap, is alfo an ornament ufed by both fexes. The moft ordinary kind are made of the fibres of the cocoa-nut, tied loofe, in bunches, to the top of a fmooth polifhed handle. The tail-feathers of the cock, and of the tropic-bird, are alfo ufed in the fame manner ; but the moft valuable are thofe which have the handle made of the arm or leg bones of an enemy flain in battle, and which are preferved with great care, and handed down, from father to fon, as trophies of ineftimable value. The cuftom of tattowing the body, they have in common with the reft of the natives of the South Sea Iflands; but it is only at New Zealand, and the Sandwich Iflands, that they tattow the face. There is.f*alfo this difference between the two laft, that, in the former, it is done in elegant fpiral volutes, and in the latter, in ftraight lines, crofting each other at right angles. The hands and arms of the women are alfo very neatly marked, and they have a Angular cuftom amongft them, the meaning of which we could never learn, that of tattowing the tip of the tongues of the females. From fome information we received, relative to the cuftom of tattowing, we were inclined to think that it is frequently intended as a fign of mourning on the death of a Chief, or any other calamitous event. For we were often told, that fuch a particular mark was in memory of fuch a and fo of the reft. It may be here, too, obferved, '3* 1779- March. I *36 A VOYAGE TO 1779- obferved, that the loweft clafs are often tattowed '""K" .with a mark, that diftinguifhes them as the property of the feveral Chiefs to whom they belong. The drefs of the men generally confifts only of a piece of thick cloth called the maro, about ten or twelve inches broad, which they pafs between the legs, and tie round the waift. This is the common drefs of all ranks of people. Their mats, fome of which are beautifully manufactured, are of various fizes, but iaoftly about five feet long, and four broad. Thefe they throw over their fhoulders, and bring forward before; but they are feldom ufed, except in time of war, for which purpofe they feem better adapted than for ordinary ufe, being of a thick and cumberfome texture, and capable of breaking the blow of a ftone, or any blunt weapon. Their feet are generally bare, except when they have occafion to travel over the burnt ftones, when they fecure them with a fort of fandai, made of cords, twifted from the fibres of the cocoa-nut. Such is the ordinary drefs of thefe iflanders -, but they have another, appropriated to their Chiefs, and ufed on ceremonious occafions, confifting of a feathered cloak and helmet, which, in point of beauty and magnificence, is perhaps nearly equal to that of any nation in the world. As this drefs has been already defcribed with great accuracy and minutenefs, I have only to add, that thefe cloaks are made of different lengths, in proportion to the rank of the clearer, fome of them reaching no lower than the middle, others trailing on the ground. The inferior Chiefs have alfo a fhort cloak, refemblingthe former,made of the long |ail-feathers of the cock, the tropic and man of war birds, vyith a broad border of the fmall red and yellow THE PACIFIC OCEAN. low feathers, and a collar of the fame. Others again are made of feathers entirely white, with variegated borders. The helmet has a ftrong lining of wicker-work, capable of breaking the blow of any warlike inftrument, and feems evidently defigned for that purpofe. Thefe feathered dreffes feemed to be exceedingly fcarce, appropriated to perfons of the higheft rank, and worn by the men only. During the whole time we lay in Karakakooa Bay, we never faw them ufed but on three occafions : in the curious ceremony of Terreeoboo's firft vifit to the fhips; by fome Chiefs, who were feen among the crowd on fhore, when Captain Cook was killed ; and, afterward, when Eappo brought his bones to us. The exact refemblance between this habit, and the cloak and helmet formerly worn by the Spaniards, was too ftrjking not to excite our curiofity to inquire, whether there were any probable grounds for fuppofing it to have been borrowed from them. After exerting every means in our power, of obtaining information on this fubje^;, we found that they had no immediate knowledge^ any other nation whatever ; nor any tradition remaining among them of thefe iflands having been ever vifited before by fuch fhips as ours. But notwithftanding the refulf^of thefe inquiries, the uncommon form of this habit appears to me a fufficient proof of its European origin ; efpecially when added to another circumftance, that it is a fingular deviation from the general refemblance in drefs, which prevails amongft all the branches of this tribe, difperfed through the South Sea. We were driven indeed, by this conclufion, to a fuppofi- tion of the fhipwreck of fome Buccaneer, or Spanifh fhip in the neighbourhood of thefe iflands. But when it is recollected, that the courfe of the '37 1779. March. ■H i» A O Y A G E TO ,!;: - ! 1779. Marcn. the Spanifh trade from Acapulco to the Manillas, is but a few degrees to the Southward of the Sandwich Iflands, in their paffage out, and to the Northward, on their return, this fuppofition will not appear in the leaft improbable. The common drefs of the women bears a clofe refemblance to that of the men. They wrap round the waift a piece of cloth, that reaches half way down the thighs; and fometimes, in the cool of the evening, they appeared with loofe pieces of fine cloth thrown over their fhoulders, like the women of Otaheite. The pau is another drefs very frequently worn by the younger part of the fex. It is made of the thinneft and fineft fort of,JMoth, wraot feveral times round the waift, and defcending to the leg; fo as to have exactly the appearance of a full fhort petticoat. Their hair is cut fhort behind, and turned up before, as is the fafhion among the Otaheiteans and New Zealanders ; all of whom differ, in this refpect, from the women of the Friendly Iflands, who wear their hair long. We faw, indeed, one woman in Karakakooa Bay, whofe hair was arranged in a very Angular manner; it was turned up behind, and brought over the forehead, and then doubled back, fo as to form a fort of fhade to the face, like a fmall bonnet. Their necklaces are made of fhells, or of a hard, fhining red berry. Befides which, they wear wreaths of dried flowers of the Indian mallow ; and another beautiful ornament called eraie, which is generally put about the neck, but is fometimes tied like a garland round the hair, and fometimes worn in both thefe ways at once. It is a ruff of the thicknefs of a finger, made, in a curious manner, of exceedingly fmall feathers, woven fo clofe together as to form a fqrface as fmooth as that of the richeft• ve 1 vet. The THE PACIFIC OCEAN. The ground was generally of a red colour, with of ellow, and black. green, y which were alfo of great variety, kinds, have been already alternate circles Their bracelets, and very peculiar defcribed. At Atooi, fome of the women wore little figures of the turtle, neatly formed of wood or ivory, tied on their fingers in the manner we wear rings. Why this animal is thus particularly diftinguifhed, I leave to the conjectures of the curious. There is alfo an ornament made of fhells, faftened in rows on a ground of ftrong netting, fo as to ftrike each other, when in motion ; which both men and women, when they dance, tie either round the arm or the ankle, or below the knee. Inftead of fhells, they fometimes make ufe of dogs teeth, and a hard red berry, refembling that of the holly. There remains to be mentioned another ornament, if fuch it may be called. It is a kind of mail-:, made of a large gourd, with holes cut in it for the eyes and nofe. The top was fluck full of fmall green twigs, appearance of an from the lower part hung narrow ftripes of cloth, refembling a beard. We never faw thefe mafks worn but twice, and both times by a number of people together in a canoe, who came to the fide of the fhip, laughing and ^rolling, with an air of mafquerading. Whether they may not likewife be ufed as a defence for the head againft ftones, for which they feem beft defigned, or in fome of their public games, or be merely intended for the purpofes of mummery, we could never inform ourfelves. It has already been remarked, in a few inftances, that the natives of the Sandwich Iflands approach nearer to the New Zealanders, in their manners and cuftoms, than to eitl ir of their *39 1779. March. which, at a diftance, had the elegant waving plume; and I 140 A VOYAGE TO I: -i! 1 1779- their lefs diftant neighbours of the Society or March. Friendly Iflands. This is in nothing more obferv- ~'~ 'able, than in their method of living together in fmall towns or villages, containing from about One hundred to two hundred houfes, bui'l£$>retty llbfe together, without any order, and having a winding path leading through them. They are generally flanked, toward the fea, with loofe detached walls, which probably are meant both for the purpofes of fhelter and defence. The figure of their houfes has been already deferibed. They are of different "fizes, from eighteen feet by twelve, %d forty-five by twenty-four. There are fome of a larger kind ; being fifty feet long and thirty broad, and quite open at one end. Thefe, they told us, were defigned for travellers or ftrangers| who were only making a fhort flay. In addition to the furniture of their houfes, which has been accurately defcribed by Captain Cook, I have only to add, that at one end are mats on which they fleep, with wooden pillows, or fleeping flools, exactly like thofe of the Chinefe. Some of thj^better fort of houfes have a court-yard before them, neatly railed in, with fmaller houfes built round it, for their fervants. In this area tley generally eat, andfo during the day-time. In the fides of the hills, and among the fteep rocks, ^%e alfo obferved feveral holes or cafes, which appeared to be inhabited; but as the entrance was defended with wicker-work, and we alfo found, in the only one that was vifited, a ftone fence running acrofs it within, we imagine they are principally defigned for places of retreat, in cafe of an attack from an enemy. The food of the lower clafs of people confifts principally of fifh, and vegetables; fuch as yams, fweet potatoes, tarrow, plantains, fugar- canes, and bread-fruit. To thefe, the people of it- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. J43 of a higher rank add the flefli of hogs and dogs, *779- dreffed in the fame! manner as at the Society J^arch* Iflands. They alfo eat fowls of the fame do- meftic khld with ours ; but they are neither plentiful^mor much efieemed by them. It is remarked by Captain Cook, that the bread-fruit and yams appeared fcarce amongft them, and were reckoned great rarities. We found this not to be the cafe on our fecond vifit; and it is therefore moft probable, that, as thefe vegetables were generally planted in the interior parts of the country, the natives had not had time to bring them down to us, during the fhort flay we made in Wymoa Bay. Their fifh they fait, and preferve in gourd-fhells; not, as we at firft imagined, for the purpofe of providing againft any temporary fcarcity, but from the preference they give to falted meats. For we alfo found, that the Erees ufed to pickle pieces of pork in the fame manner, and efteemed it a great delicacy. Their cookery is exactly of the fame fort with that already defcribed, in the accounts that have been publifhed of the other South Sea iflands; and though Captain Cook complains of the four- nefs of their tarrow puddings, yet, in juftice to the many excellent meals they afforded us in Karakakooa Bay, I muft be permitted to refcue them from this general cenfure, and to declare, that I never eat better even in the Friendly Iflands. It is however remarkable, that they had not got the art of preferving the bread-fruit, and making the four pafte of it called Maihee, as at the Society Iflands; and it was fome fatisfaction to us, in return for their great kindnefs and hofpitality, to have it in our power to teach them this ufeful fecret. They are exceedingly cleanly at their meals ; and their mode of dref- fing both their animal and vegetable food, was univerfally A VOYAGE TO univfefally allowed to be greatly fuperior to ours. The Chiefs conftantly begin their meal with a doze of the extract of pepper-root, brewed after the ufual manner. The women eat apart from the men, and are tabooed, or forbidden, as has been already mentioned, the ufe of pork, turtle, and particular kinds of plantains. However, they would eat pork with us in private; but we could never prevail upon them to touch the two laft articles. The way of fpeniing their time appears to be very fimple, and to admit of little variety. They rife with the fun; and, after enjoying the cool of the evening, retire to reft a few hours after fun-fet. The making of canoes and matSf>forms the occupations of the Erees; the women are employed in manufacturing cloth; and the Towtows are principally engaged in the plantations and fifhing. Their idle hours are filled up with various amufements. Their young men and women are fond of dancing ; and, on more folemn occafions, they have b$iring and wreftfing matches, after the manner of the Friendly Iflands; though, .|u all thefe refpects, they are much inferior to the latter. Their dances have a much nearer refemblance to thofe of the New Zealanders, than of the Otaheiteans or Friendly Iflanders. They are prefaced with a flow, folemn fong, in which all the party join, moving their legs, and gently ftriking their breafts, in a manner, and with attitudes, that are perfectly, eafy and graceful | and fo far they are the fame with the dances of the Society Iflands. When this has lafted about ten minutes, both the tune and the motions gradually quicken, and end only by their inability to fupport their fatigue ; which part' of the performance is the exact counterpart of that, of the New Zealanders; and (as it is among them) the perfon who ufes the moft violent action, and holds <t- THEPACIFICOCEAN. 143 holds out the longeft, is applauded as the beft 1779. dancer. It is to be obferved, that, in this March- dance, the women only take a part, and that the dancing of the men is nearly of the fame kind with what we faw of the fmall parties at the piiendly Iflands; and which may, perhaps, with more propriety, be called the accompaniment of fongs, with correfponding and graceful motions of the whole body. Yet as we were fpec- tators of boxing exhibitions, of the fame kind with thofe we were entertained with at the Friendly Iflands, it is probable that they had likewife their grand ceremonious dances, in which numbers of both fexes aflifted. Their mufic is alfo of a ruder kind, having Ijejther flutes or reeds, nor inftruments of any other fort, that we faw, except drums of various fizes. But their fongs, which they fung in parts *, and accompany with a gentle motion of * As this circumftance, of their ftnging in parts, has been much doubted by perfons eminently (killed in niuiic, and would be exceedingly curious if it was clearly afcer- tained, it is to be lamented that it cannot be more positively authenticated. Captain Burney, and Captain Phillips of the Marines, who both have a tolerable knowledge of mufic, have given it as their opinion, that they did fing in parts ; that is to fay, that they fung together in different notes, which formed a pleafing harmony. Thefe gentlemen have fully teftified, that the Friendly Iflanders undoubtedly ftudied their performances before they were exhibited in public ; that they had an idea of different notes being ufeful in harmony; and alfo, that they rehearfed their compofitions in private; and threw out the inferior voices, before they ventured to appear before thofe who were fuppofed to be judges of their fkill in mufic. In their regular concerts, each man had a bamboo, which was of a different length, and gave a different tone : thefe they beat againft the ground, and each performer, affifted by the note given by this inftrument, repeated the fame note, accompanying it by words, by which means it was rendered fometimes ihort, and fometimes M 144 »779- March. A VOYAGE TO of the arms, in the fame manner as the Friendly Iflanders, had a very pleafing effect. It is very remarkable, thati^he people of thefe iflands are great gamblers. They have a game very much like our draughts ; but, if one may judge from the number of fquares, it is much more intricate. The board is about two feet long, and is divided into two hundred and thirty-eight fquares, of which there are fourteen in a row. times long. In this manner they fung in chorus, and not only produced octaves to each other, according to their different fpecies of voice, but fell on concords, fuch as were not difagreeable to the ear. Now, to overturn this fact, by the reafoning of perfons who did not hear thofe performances, is rather an arduous tafk. And, yet, there is great improbability that any uncivilized people fhould, by accident, arrive at this degree of perfection in the art of mufic, which we imagine can only be attained by dint of ftudy, and knowledge of the fyftem and theory upon which mufical compofition is founded. Such miferable jargon as our country Pfalm-fingers pradtife, which may be juftly deemed the loweft clafs of counterpoint, or finging in feveral parts, cannot be acquired in the coarfe manner in which it is performed in the churches, without confiderable time and practice. It is, therefore, fcarcely credible, that a people, femi-barbarous, fhould naturally arrive at any perfection in that art, which it is much doubted whether the Greeks and Romans, with all their refinements in mufic, ever attained, and which the Chinefe, who have been longer civilized than any people on the globe, have not yet found out. If Captain Burney (who, by the teftimony of his father, perhaps the greateft mufical theorift of this or any other age, was able to have done it) had written down, in European notes, the concords that thefe people fung ; and if thefe concords had been fuch as European ears could tolerate, there would have been no longer doubt of the faft : but, as it is, it would, in my opinion, be a rafh judgment to venture to affirm that they did or did not underftand counterpoint ; and therefore I fear that this curious matter muft be confidered as ftill remaining undecided. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. a row, and they make ufe of black and white pebbles, which they move from fquare to fquare. There is another game, which Confifts in hiding a ftone under a piece of cloth, which one of the parties fpreads out, and rumples in fuch a manner, that the place where the ftone lies is difficult to be diftinguifhed. The antagonift, with a ffick, then itrikes the part of the cloth where he imagines the ftone to be; and as the chances are, upon the whole, confiderably againft bsg hitting it, odds, of all degrees, varying with the opinion of the fkill of the parties, are laid on the fide of him who hides. Befides thefe games, they frequently amufe themfelves with racing-matches between the boys and girls; and here again they wager with great fpirit. I faw a mafa in a moft violent rage, tearing his hair, and beating his breaft, after lofing three hatchets at one of thefe races, which he had juft before purchafed from us, with half his fubftance. Swimming is not only a neceffary art, in which both their men and women are more expert than any people1 we had hitherto feen, but a favourite diverfion amongft them. One particular mode, in which they fometimes amufed themfelves with this exercife, in Karakakooa Bay, appeared to us moft perilous and extraordinary, and well deferving a diftinct relation. The/furf, which breaks on the coaft round the bay, extends to the diftance of about one hundred and fifty yards from the fhore, within which fpace, the furges of the fea, accumulating from the fhaliownefs of the water, are dafhed againft the beach with proSelgious violence. Whenever, from flormy weather, or any extraordinary fwell at fea, the impetuofity of the furf is increafed to its utmoft height, they choofe that time for this amufement, which is pers-i Vol. III. L. farmed *779- March. 146 1779- March. A VOYAGE TO formed in the following manner: Twenty or thirty of the natives, taking each a long narrow board, rounded at the ends, fet out together from tfhe fhore. The firft wave they meet, they plunge under, and fuffering it to roll over them, rife again beyond it, and make the beft of their way, by fwimming, out into the fea. The fecond wave is encountered in the fame manner with the firft ; the great difficulty confiding in feizing the proper moment of diving under it, which, if miffed, the perfon is caught by the furf, and driven back again with great violence ; and all his dexterity is then required to prevent himfelf from being dafhed againft the rocks. As foon as they have gained, by thefe repeated efforts, the fmooth water beyond the furf, they lay themfelves at length on their board, and prepare for their return. As the furf confifts of a number of waves, of which every third is remarked to be always much larger than the others, and to flow higher on the fhore, the reft breaking in the intermediate fpace, their firft object is to place themfelves on the fummit of the largeft furge, by which they are ifriven along with amazing rapidity toward the fhore. If by miftake they fhould place themfelves on one of the fmaller waves, which breaks before they reach the land, or fhould not be able to keep their plank in a proper direction on the top of the fwell, they are left expofed to the fury of the next, and, to avoid it, are obliged again to dive and regain the place from which they fet out. Thofe who fucceed in their object of reaching the fhore, have ftill the greateft danger to encounter. The coaft being guarded by a chain of rocks, with, here and there, a fmall opening between them, they are obliged to fleer their board through one of thefe, or, in cafe of failure, to quit it, before they reach the rocks, and, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. and, plunging under the wave, make the beft of their way back again. This is reckoned very difgraceful, and is alfo attended with the iofs of the board, which I have often feen, with great terror, dafhed to pieces, at the very moment the iflander quitted it. The boidnefs and ad- drefs, with which we faw them perform thefe difficult and dangerous manoeuvres, was altogether aftonithing, and is fcarcely to be credited*. An accident, of which I was a near fpectator, fhews at how early a period they are fo far familiarized to the water, as both to lofe all fears of it, and to fet its dangers at defiance. A canoe being overfet, in which was a woman with her children, one of them an infant, who, I am convinced, was not more than four years old, feemed highly delighted with what had happened, fwimming about at its eafe, and playing a hundred tricks, till the canoe was put to rights again. Befides the amufements I have already mentioned, the young children have one, which was much played at, and fhewed no fmall degree of dexterity. They take a fhort flick, with a peg fharpened at both ends, running through one extremity of it, and extending about an inch on each fide ; and throwing up a ball made of green leaves moulded together, and fecured with twine, they catch it on the point of the peg; and immediately throwing it up again from the peg, they turn the flick round, and thus keep catching it on each peg alternately, without milling it, for a confiderable time. They are not lefs expert at another game of the fame nature, tolling up in the air, and catching in their turns, a number of thefe balls; fo that 1779. March. An amufement, fomewhat furiilar to this at Otaheite, has been defcribec Vol. II. p. L 2 1S0. we A V O Y g e &m. "779- March. we frequently faw little children thus keep in motion five at a time. With this latter play the young people likewife divert themfelves at the Friendly Iflands. The great refemblance which prevails in the mode of agriculture and navigation, amongft all the inhabitants of the South Sea iflands, leaves me very little to add on thofe heads. Captain Cook has already defcribed the figure of the canoes we faw at Atooi. Thofe of the other iflands wjfej|recifely the fame ; and the largeft we faw was a double canoe belonging to Terreeoboo, which meafured feventy feet in length, three and a half in depth, and twelve in breadth £ spnld each was holloaed out of one tree. The progrefs they have made in fculpture, their fkill in painting cloth, and the manufacturing of mats, have been all particularly defcribed. The moft curious fpecimens of the former, which we faw during our fecond vifit, are the bowls, in which the Cfiefs drink ava. Thefe are ufually about eight or ten inches in diameter, perfectly round, and beatffully polifhed. They are fupported by three, and fometimes four fmall human figures, in various attitudes. Some of them reft on the hands of -flSSjF fup- porters, extended over the head; others on the head and hands; and fome on the fhoulders; The figures, I am told, are accurately proportioned, and neatly finifhed, and even the anatomy of the mufcles, in fupporting the weight, well expreffed. Their cloth is made of the fame materials, and in the fame manner, as at the Friendly and Society Iflands. That which is^ defigned to be painted, is of a thick and ftrong texture, feveral folds being beat and incorporated together; after which it is-lDut in breadths, about two or three feet wide, and is painted in a variety of patterns, ' 1 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. patterns, with a comprehenfivenefs and regularity of defign, that befpeaks infinite tafte and fancy. The exactnefs with which the moft intricate patterns are continued, is the more furprizing, when we confider, that they have no ftamps, and that the whole is done by the eye, with pieces of bamboo cane dipped in paint; the hand being fupported by another piece of the cane, in the manner practifed by cur painters. Their colours are extracted from the fame berries, and other vegetable fubftances, as at Otaheite, which have been already defcribed |>y former voyagers. The bufinefs of painting belongs entirely to the women, and is called kipparee; and it is remarkable, that they always gave the fame name to our wrt||ng, The^oung women would often take the pen out of our hands, and (hew us, that they knew the ufe of it as well as we did ; at the fame tin|e telling us that our pens were not fo good as theirs. They looked upon a fheet of written paper, as a piece of cloth ftriped after the fafhion of our co|ari|jg$r, and it was not without the utmoft difficulty, that we could make them underftand, that our figures had a meaning in them which theirs had not. Their mats are made of the leaves of^pie pan- danus ; and, as well as their cloths, are beautifully worked in a variety of patterns, and ftained of different colours. Some have a ground of pale. green, fpotted with fquares, or rhomboids, of red; others are of a flraw colour, fpotted with green ; and others are worked with beautiful ftripes, either in ftraight or waving lines of red and brown. In this article of manufacture, whether we regard the ftrength, finenefs, or beautys ^|iey certainly excel the whole world. Their fiftiing-hooks are made of mothejr-of- pearl, bone, or wood, pointed and barbed with fmall 149 1779. March. *5° *779- March. A VOYAGE- TO fmall bones, or tortoife-fhell. They are of various fizes and forms; are about two or three in the fhape of a fmall bait, having a bunch but the moft common inches long, and made fifh, which ferves as a of feathers tied to the head or tail.r* Thofe with which they fifh for fharks, are of a very large fize, bJbg generally fix or eight inches long. Confidering the materials of which thefe hooks are made, their ftrength -and neatnefs are really aftonifhing; and in fact we found them, upon trial, much fuperior to our own. The line vvhich they ufe for fifhing, for making nets, and for other domeftic purpofes, is of ^different degrees of finenefs, and is made of the bark of the touta, or cloth tree, neatly and evenly twilled, in the fame manner as our common Jtwine ; and may be continued t%f* any length. They have a finer fort, made of the bark of a fmall fhrub called areemah; and the fineft is made of human hair; but this laft is chiefly ufedTpr things of ornament. They alfo make cordage of a ftronger kind, m^ the rigging of their canoes, from the fibrous coatings of the .cocoa-nuts. Some of this we purchafed for our own ufe, and fotmd it well adapted to the fmaller |cinds of running rigging. They likewife make another fort/6f cordage, which is flat, and exceedingly ftrong, and ufed principally in lafhing the roofing of their houfes, or whatever they wifh to fallen tight together. This laft is not twilled like the former forts, but is made of the fibrous firings of the cocoa-nut's coat, plaited with the fingers, in the mariner out failors make their points for the reefing of fails. The gourds, -jfhich grow to fo enormous a fize, that fome of fern are .capable of containing from ten toftwelve gallons, are applied to all manner of domeftic purpofes \ and in order to THE PACIFIC OCEAN. to fit them the better to their refpeotive ufes, they have the ingenuity to give them different forms, by tying bandages" round them during their growth. Thus, fome of them are of a long, ■cylindrical form, as beft adapted to contain their fifhing-tackle; others are of a difh form, and thefe ferve to hold their fait, and falted prov'rV fions, their puddings, vegetables, &e. -, which two forts have neat clofe covers, made likewife of the gourd ; others again are exactly the fhape of a bottle with a long neck, and in thefe they keep their water. They have likewife a method of fcoring them with a heated inftrument, fo as to give them the appearance of being painted, in a variety of neat and elegant defigns. Amongft their arts, we muft not forget that of making fait, with which we were amply fup- plied, during our flay at thefe iflands, and which was perfectly good of its kind. Their fait-pans are made of earth, lined with clay ; being generally fix or eight feet' fquare, and about eight inchgf deep. They are raifed upon a bank of ftones near fjie high water mark, from whence the fait water is conducted to the foot of them, in fmall trenches, out of which they are tilled, and the fun quickly performs the neceffary pro- cefs of evaporation. The fait we procured at Atooi and Oneeheow, on our firft vifit, was of a brown and dirty fort; but that which we afterward got in Karakakooa Bay, was white, and of a moft excellent quality, and in great abundance, Befides the quantity we ufed in falting pork, we filled all our empty calks, amounting to fixteen puncheons, in the Refolution only. Their inftruments of war are fpears; daggers, caUed pahooas; clubs; and flings. The fpears are of two forts, and made of a hard folid wood, which has much the appearance of mahogany. 151 1779. March. ^F^^^^^^^^^^G^^^^B H; ill! ' m Itii It W B 552 '779- March. A VOYAGE TO mahogany. One fort is from fix to eight feet in length, finely polifhed, and gradually in- creafmg in thicknefs from the extremity till within about half a foot of the point, which tapers fuddenly, and is futpiflied with four or fix rows of barbs. It is not improbable, that thefe might be ufed in the way of darts. The other fort, with which we faw the warriors at Owhyhee and Atooi moftly armed, are twelve or fifteen feet long, and, inftead of being barbed, terminate toward the point, like their daggers. The dagger, or pahooa, is made of heavy black wood, refembling ebony. Its length is from one to V0o feet, with a firing palling through the handle, for the purpofe of fufpend- ing it to the arm. | The clubs are made indifferently of feveral forts of wood. They are of rude workmanfhip, and of a variety of fhapes and fizes. The flings have nothing lingular about them £ and in no refpect differ from our common flings, except that the ftone is lodged on a piece of matting ifj^ead of leather. C H; A P. 4- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ■S3 CHAP. VIII. General Account of the Sandwich Iflands continued. —Government.—People divided into t§jfiee Claffes.'—Power of Eree-taboo.—Genealogy of the Kings of Owhyhee and Mowee.—Power of the Chiefs.—State of the inferior?Clafs.—Punifhment of Crimes.—Religion.—Society of Priefts. •—The Orono.—Their Idols.—Songs chanted by the Chiefs, before they drink Ava.—Human Sacrifices.—-Cuftom of knocking out the Foreteeth.—Notions with regard to a future State.—> Marriages.—Remarkable Inftance of Jealoufy.*— Funeral Rites. TH E people of thefe iflands are manifeftly divided into three claffes. The firft are the Erees, or Chiefs, of each diftrict; one of whom is fuperior to the reft, and is called at Owhyhee Eree-taboo, and Eree Moee. By the firft of thefe words they exprefs his abfolute authority ; and by the latter, that all are obliged to profirate themfelves (or put themfelves to fleep, as the word fignifies) in his prefence. The fecond clafs are thofe who appear to enjoy a right of property, withoutAauthority. The third are the towtows, or fervants, who have neither rank nor property. It is not poffible to give any thing like a fyftematical account of the fubordination of thefe claffes to each other, without departing from that ftrict veracity, which, in works of this nature, is more fatisfadtory than conjectures, however ingenious. I will, therefore, content myfelf with relating fuch facts, as we were witneffes 1779. March. *3# 1779. March. A VOYAGE TO witneffes to ourfelves, and fuch accounts as we thought could be depended upon; and fhall leave the reader to form, from them, his own ideas of the nature of their government. The great power and high rank of Terreeoboo, the Ereetaboo of Owhyhee, was very evident, from the manner in which he was received at Karakakooa, on his firfl arrival. All the natives were feen proftrated at the entrance of their houfes; and the canoes, for two days before, were tabooed, or forbidden to go out, till he took off the reftraint. He was, at this time, juft returned from Mowee, for the poffeffion of which he was contending in favour of his fon Teewarro, who had married the daughter and only child of the late king of that ifland, againft Taheeterree, his furviving brother. He was attended, in this expedition, by many of hijsj warriors; but whether their fervice was volufljll tary, or the condition on wffich they hold their rank and property, we could not learn. That he collects tribute from the fubordinate Chiefs, we had a very ftriking proof in the inftance of Kaoo, which has been already related in our tranfactions of the 2d and 3d of Fe- bruaF$fQ*[r I have before mentioned, that the two moft powerful Chiefs of thefe iflands are Terreeoboo of Owhyhee, and Perreeorannee of Woahoo ; the reft of the fmaller ifles being fubject to one or other of thefe ; Mowee, and its dependencies, being, at this time, claimed, as we have juft obferved, by Terreeoboo for Teewarro his fon and intended fucceffor; Atooi and Oneeheow being governed by the grandfons of Perreeorannee. The following genealogy of the Owhyhee and Mowee kings, which I collected from the priefts, during our refidence at the Morai in Karakakooa THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Karakakooa Bay, contains all the information I could procure relative to the political hiftory of thefe iflands. This account reaches to fouf-CShiefs, prede- ceflbrs of the prefent; all of whom they repre- fent to have lived to an old age. Their names and fuccefEons are as follow : ••Firft, Poorahoo Awhykaia was king of Owhyhee, and had an only fon, called Neerooagooa. At this time Mowee was governed by Mokoakea; who had alfo an only fon, named Papikaneeou. Secondly, Neerooagooa had three Ions, the eldeft named Kahavee-; and Papikaneeou, of the Mowee race, had an only fon, named Kaowreeka. Thirdly, Kahavee had an only fon, Kayene- wee a mummow ; and Kaowreeka^ the Mowee ting, had two fons, Maiha maiha, and Tahee- ierree; the latter of whom is now, by one party, ^acknowledged Chief of Mowee. Fourthly, Kayenewee a mummow had two fons, Terreeoboo and Kaihooa; and Maiha maiha, king of Mowee, had no fon, but left a daughter, called Roaho. Fifthly, Terreeoboo, the prefent king of Owhyhee, had a fon named Teewarro, by Rora- rora, the widow of Maiha maiha^fete king of Mowee; and this fon has married Roaho, his 4ialf fifter, in whofe right he claims Mowee and its appendages. Taheeterree, the brother of the late king, fupported by a confiderable party, who were not willing llbat the poffeflions fhould go into another family, took up arms, and oppofed the rights of his niece. When we were firft off Mowee, Terreeoboo was there with his warriors to fupport the claims of his wife, his fon, and daughter-itt-law, and had »55 1779- March. 156 A VOYAGE TO 1779. had fought a battle with the oppofite party, in March, which Taheeterree was worfted. We afterward -—v—■—> underftood, that matters had been compromifed, and that Taheeterree is to have the poffeffion of the three neighbouring iflands during his life; that Teewarro is acknowledged the Chief of Mowee, and will alfo fucceed to the kingdom of Owhyhee on the death of Terreoboo; and alfo to the fovereignty of the three iflands, contiguous to Mowee, on the death of Taheeterree. Teewarro has been lately married to his half fifter ; and fhould he die without iffue, the government of thefe iflands defcends to Maiha maiha, whom we have often had occafion to mention, he being the fon of Kaihooa, the deceafed brother of Terreeoboo. Should he alfo die without iffue, they could not tell who would fucceed; for the two youngeft fons of Terreeoboo, one of whom he appears to be exceedingly fond of, being born of a woman of no rank, would, from this circumftance, be debarred all right of fucceflion. We had §ot an opportunity of feeing queen Rora-rora, whom Terreeoboo had left behind at Mowee ; but we have already had occafion to take notice, that he was accompanied by Kanee Kaberaia, the mother of the two youths, to whom he was very much attached. From this account of the genealogy of the Owhyhee and Mowee monarchs, it is pretty clear that the government is hereditary ; which alfo makes it very probable, that the inferior titles, and property itfelf, defcend in the fame courfe. With regard to. Perreeorannee, we could only learn, that he is an Eree Taboo; that he was invading the poffeffion of Taheeterree, but on what pretence we were not informed j and that his grandfons governed the iflands to Jeeward. The THE PACIFIC OCEAN. • The power of the Erees over the inferior claffes of people appears to be very abfolute. Many inftances of this occurred daily during our flay amongft them, and have been already related. The people, on the other hand, pay them the moft implicit obedience ; and this ftate of fervility has manifeftly had a great effect in debafing both their minds and bodies. It is, however, remarkable, that the Chiefs were never guilty, as far at leaft as came within my knowledge, of any acts of cruelty or injuftice, or even of infolent behaviour toward them; though, at the fame time, they exercifed their power over one another in the moft haughty and oppreflive manner. Of this I fhall give two inftances. A Chief of the lower order had behaved with great civility to the mafter of the fhip, when he went to examine Karakakooa bay, the day before the fhip firft arrived there ; and, in return, I af&Srward carried him on board, and introduced him to Captain Cook, who invited him to dine with us. While we were at table, Pareea entered, whofe face but too plainly manifefted his indignation, at feeing our gueft in fo honourable a fituation. He immediately feized him by the hair of the head, and was proceeding to drag him out of the cabin, when the Captain interfered ; and, after a great deal of altercation, all the indulgence we could obtain, without coming to a quarrel with Pareea, was, that our gueft fhould be fuffered to remain, "being feated upon the floor, whilft Pareea filled his place at the table. At another time, when Terreeoboo firft came on board the Refolution, Maiha-maiha, who attended him, finding Pareea on deck, turned him out of the fhip in the moft ignominious manner ; and yet Pareea, we certainly knew, to be a man of the firft confequence. 157 1779. March. I m aw A VOYAGE TO How far the property of the lower clafs is fecured againft the rapacity and defpotifm of the great Chiefs, I cannot fay ; but it fhould feem, that it is fufficiently protected againft private theft, or mutual depredation. For not only their plantations, which are fpread over the whole country, but alfo their houfes, their hogs, and their cloth, were left unguarded, without the fmalleft apprehenfions. I have already remarked, that they not only feparate their poffeffions by walls in the plain country, but that, in the woods likewife, wherever the horfe-plantains grow, they make ufe of fmall white flags, in the fame manner, and for the fame purpofe of difcrimi- nating property, as they do bunches of leaves at Otaheite. All which circumftances, if they do not amount to proofs, are ftrong indications that the power of the Chiefs, where property is concerned, is not arbitrary; but, at leaft, fo far circumfcribed and afcertained, as to make it worth the while for the inferior orders to cultivate the foil, and to occupy their poffeffions diftinct from each other. With refpect to the adminiftration of juftice, all the information we could collect was very imperfect and confined. Whenever any of the loweft clafs of people had a quarrel amongft themfelves, the matter in difpute was referred to the decifion of fome Chief, probably the Chief of the diftrict, or the perfon to whom they appertained. If an inferior Chief had given caufe of offence to one of a higher rank, the feelings of the latter at the moment feemed the only meafure of his punifhment. If he had the good fortune to efcape the firft tranfports of his fupe- rior's rage, he generally found means, through the mediation of fome third perfon, to compound for his crime by a part or the whole of his property and effects. Thefe were the only facls that came to our knowledge on this head. The THE PACIFIC OCEAN. The religion of thefe people refembles, in moft of its principal features, that of the Society and Friendly Iflands. Their Morais, their Whattas, their idols, their facrifices, and their facred fongs, all of which they have in common with each other, are convincing proofs, that their religious notions are derived from the fame fource. In the length and number of their ®e-i remonies, this branch indeed far-1 estfifgads the reft; and, though in all thefe countries, there is a certain clafs of men, to whofe care the per- ■ Ilfeiance of their religious rights is committed ; yet we had never met with a regular fociety of priefts, till we difcovered the cloifters ofKakooa in Karakakooa Bay. The head of this order was called Orono ; a title which we imagined to imply fomething highly facred, and which, in the perfon of Omeeah, was honoured almoft to adoration. It is probable, that the privilege of entering into this order (at leaft as to the principal offices in it), is limited to certain families. Omeeah, the Orono, was the fon of Kaoo, and the uncle of Kaireekeea; which laft prefided, during the abfence of his grandfather, in all religious ceremonies at the Morai. It was alfo remarked, that the child of Omeeah, an only fon, about five years old, was never fuffered to appear without a number of attendants, and fuch other marks of care and folicitude, as we faw no other like inftance of. This feemed to indicate, that his life was an object of the greateft moment, and that he was dellined to fucceed to the high rank of his father. It has been mentioned, that the title of Orono. with all its honours, was given to Captain Cook ; and it is alfo certain, that they regarded us, generally, as a race of people fuperior to themfelves -, and ufed often to fay, that great Eatooa dwelled in our country. The little image, which we have before defcribed, as the favourite idol 1779. March A VOYAGE T I779- March on the Morai in Karakakooa Bay, they call £■§ nooraekaiee, and faid it was Terreeoboo's God y and that he alfo refided amongft us. There are found an infinite varied of thefe images, both on the Morais, and within and without their houfes, to which they gave different nam#; but it foon became obvious to us in how little eftimafion they %ere held, from their frequent expreffions of contempt of them, and from their even offering ther%j to fale for trifles. At the fame time, there feldom failed to be fome one particular figure in favour, to which, whilft this performance lafted, allytheir adoration was addreffed. This confifled in arraying i|jta red cloth; beating their drums, and finging hymns before it; laying bunches of red feathers, and different forts of vegetables, at its feet; and expofing a pig, or a dog, to rot on the whatta that ftood near it. In a bay to the Southward of Karakakooa, a party of our gentlemen were conducted to a large hoi^e, in which they found the black figure of a man, refting on his fingers and toes, with his head inclined backward; ^the limbs well formed and exactly proportioned, and the whole beautifully polifhed. This figure the natives called Maee; and round it were pjpjeed thirteen others of rude and diftorted fhapes, which they faid were the Eatooas of feveral deceafed Chiefs, whofe names they recounted. The placet was full of whattas, on which lay the remains of their offerings. They likewife give a place in their houfes to many ludicrous and fome obfcene idols, like the Priapus of the ancients. j J[t hath been remarked, by former voyagers, that both among the Society and Friendly Iflanders, an adoration is paid to particular birds ; and I am led to believe, that the fame cuftom prevails here ; and that, probably, the raven is the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. the object of it, from feeing two of thefe birds tame at the village of Kakooa, which they told r&e* were Egfaoas -, and, refufing every thing I offered for them, cautioned me, at the fame time, not to hurt^br offend them. Amongft thjgif religious ceremonies may be reckoned the prayers and offerings made by the priefls befoeij then? meals. Whilft the ava is chewing, of which they always drink before they begin their repaft, the perfon of.the higheft rank takes the lead in a fort of hymn, in which he is prefently joined/by one, two, or more of the company;. the reft moving their bodies, and ftriking their hands gently together, in concert, with the fingers. When the ava is ready, cups of it are handed about to thofe who do not join in the fong, which they keep in their hands till itis ended ; when, uniting in one loud refponife, they drink off their cup. The performers of the hymn are then ferved with ava, who drink it after a-.repetition of the fame ceremony; and, if there be ptefent one of a very fuperior rank, a cup is, laft of all, prefented to him, which, after chanting fome time alone, and being ^njfwer-ed by the reft, and pom ing a little out on the ground, he drinks off. A piece of the fleih that is dreffed, is next cut off, without any felec- tion of the part of the animal; which, together w^th fome of the vegetables, being depofited at the foot of the image of the Eatooa, and a hymn chanted, their meal commences. A ceremony of much thefifame kind is alfo performed by t^f Chiefs, whenever they drink @y&, between their meals. Human.-(acrifices are morei-^equent here, according to the account of the n#ives themfelves, than in any other iflands we vifited. Thefe horrid rites are not only had recourfe to upon the commencement of war, and preceding great Vol. HI. M battles, 161 1779. March. i6z A' V O Y A G E T O' «779- battles, and other fignal enterprizes; but the ^March, (jgg^ 0f any confiderable Chief calls for a faerifice of one or more TowtoWs, according to his ranM^ and we were told, that ten men were deftined to fuffer on tfepe death Of Terreeoboo. What may (if any^ing poffifely teafn) leffen, in fome fmall degree, the horror ofqtMit practice, is, that the unhappy victims have not the moft diftant intimation of their fate. Thofe who are fixed upon to faMy are fet upon with clubs wherever they happen to be; and, after being difpatched, are brought dead to the place, where the remainder of the rites are!§bmpleted. The reader will here caHi to his remembrance the fkulls of the captives, that had been facrificed at the death of fome great Chief, and-*jpich were fixed on the rails round the top of the Morai at Kakooa. We got a farther piece of intelligence upon this fubject at the village of Kowrowa; where, on our inquiring into the ufe of a fmall piece of ground, inclofed with a ftone fence, we were told that it was an Here-eere, or bury- ing-ground of a Chief; and there, added out informer, pointing to one oft the corners, lie the tangata and waheene taboo, or the man and woman who were facrificed at his funeral. To this^iwafs of their cuftoms may alfo be referred that of knocking out their forMeeth. Scarce any of the<$$wer people, and very few of the Chiefs, were feen, who had nof loft one or"flpNre of them; and we always underftood, ' ffjMiBfeis voluntary punifhment, like the cutting off the joints of the finger at the Friendly Iflands, was not inflicted on themfelves from the violence of grief, on the death of their friends, but was defigned as a propitiatory faerifice to the Eatooa, to avert any danger or mif- ^gfrto which they might be expofed. tsfiflMy, We THE PACIFIC OCEAN. We were able to lq&n but little of theinnef* tions with regard to a future ftate. Whenever we afked them, whither the dead were gone? we were always anfwered, that^the breath, which they appeared to confider as the foul, of immortal part, Jwas gone to the E^qtqoa;- ##f%fig/Cpnfh- ^ing. our inquiries farther, tqfy XeemeWtgfq&fcnhe fome particular place, ,^eri. theyymagined the abode of the deceafed fo be • but|&^£jfuFjfnot perceive, that theylmpug'ht, in thig ^[ate, slither rewards or punifhments awaited them. Havmg. promifed tlie.^eaderS'm -me'! firft Chapteivjjan explanation of what was rrjeant -by the word taboo, I fliall,^nt-his pla'tie, lay before him the particularjnBancj^rffiat rett-under our obfervation,. of its. application and.efjedjEs7: On our, jjpq^jTjU^ into thV^a^ns of thertmterdi£tion of all intocoyrfe b«tovegu.. us and t6e_natives, the dayv%receding tfie^iafrival. of Tedsedboo, we were told, thaft'Pe^ay was fafioo&cff .The fame reffHction toofc^oFace, at, outu^^yfe& , the day we interred the bone's of Q&&#i&~v3fik. In thefe twoi lnflances^the natives^pamQnSDlQftim- jphcit an^fcrup^Ious,-obedience jijbut whether on any religious principle,'or "merely in^dfererehce to the civil authority 'or^their'chiefs, 1 ^cannot determine. When'the gro&nd'near Q^Jjhkt- vatories, and the pla,£|Cf&ete our maJHs^T^j^were tabooed, by ftiel^gH^mlr wands,„foMu tern, this operated in.X,maimer not l^fej§ffi£^Qious. But though this mode of confecrartonfw^^per- formed by the priefts only,'..-yet ftiftj as the men ventured to come within thej-fpace, vvngft* kiyited by us_, it fhould feem^Jfiat they wereiu'nder no religious apprehenfions.^- and that their obedience was limited to our refufal only. The women could, by no means, be induced to come near us ; but this was probably on account of the Morai adjoining ; which they are prohibited, at XM % all , 1,63 ^X\9- fe* Mat to II AVOYAGE TO all times, and in all the iflands of thofe feas, from approaching. Mention hath been already made, that women are always tabooed, or forbidden, to ^eat certain kind of meats. We alfo frequently faw feveral at their meals, who had ~%he meat put into their mouths by others; and on our atjking the reafon of this Angularity, were told, that they were tabooed, or forbidden, to feed themfelYes. It-bis prohibition, we underftood, was always wtid on them, after they had affifted at any funeral, or touched a dead body, and3a|lo>non other occafions. It is neceffary to obferve, that, on thefe occafions, they apply the word taboo indiffereaFtiy both to perfons and things. Thus they fay, the natives were tWooed, or thf^a£ was tabooed, and fo of the reft. This f^'^cPis alfcVufed to exprefs any thing facred, or erifnent, or devoted.'^Jrnus the king of Owhyhee was called EreeBahoo;. a human victim, tan- gataJ^boo; and, in the fame manner, among the Frienaly*iflanders,*>Tonga, the ifland where ' >l|^fer^,;lefides, 'it ri:amed Tonga-taboo. ConSeni|ng the?£marriages, I can affordthe ^rHafjef Wfe farthter fatisfaction, than'informing him^ilpaj; fuch a ;re|aCTon or compact exifts amoffeft-'them. I have already had occafton to mentiof£vTthat at the- time Terreeoboo had left bis q\i£en R<pa Rorairt Mowee, he^Wfs'Sttended by another woman, by whom' he had children, and to whom he was yeW.mucn attached ; but how far polygamy, properly fpeaking, is allowed, or how far it is mixed with'OTrwobinage, ;JcI-ther with refpectv&o the king, the Chiefs, or among the inferior orders, too few facts came to bujngnow-ledge to juffify any conelufioriH It hath' alfo been obferved, that, except Kainee Kabareea, and the wife'bfthe Orono, with three worrien whom I (hap" have occafion hereafter to mention, we never faw any female of high rank. From THE PACIFIC OCEAN. From what I had an opportunity of obferving of the domeftic concerns of the loweit clafs, the houfe feemed to be under the direction of one man and woman, and the children in the like ftate of fubordination as in civilized countries. It will not be improper, in this place, to take notice, that we were eye witneffes of a fact, which, as it was the only inftance we faw of any thing like jealoufy among therri, fhews, at the fame time, that not only fidelity, but a degree of referve, is required/from the married women of confequence. At one of the entertainments of boxing, Omeah was obferved to rife from his place two or three times, and to go up to his wife with ftrong marks of difpleafure, ordering her, as it appeared to us from his manner, to withdraw. Whether it was, that being very handfome, he thought fhe drew too much of our attention, or without being able to determine what other reafon he might have for his conduct, it is but juflice to fay, that there ex- ifted no real caufe of jealoufy. However, fhe kept her place; and when the entertainment was over, joined our party, and foliciting fome trifling prefents, was given to underftand, that we had none about us; but that if fhe would accompany us toward our tent, fhe fhould return with fuch as (he liked beft. She was accordingly walking along with us; which Omeah obferving, followed in a violent rage, and feizing her by the hair, began to inflict, with his fifts, a fevere corporal punifhment. This fight, efpecially as we had innocently been the caufe of it, gave us much concern ; and yet we were told, that it would be highly improper to interfere between man and wife of fuch high rank. We were, however, not left without the, confolation of feeing the natives at laft interpofe ; and had the farther fatisfaction of meeting them together the 5 6.5 '779- March. M VOYAGETO the next day, in perfect good-humour with each i-OTer ; and what is ftill more fingular, the lady woula not. Juffer us to' remonftrate with her hufband on his treatment of her, which we were much inclined to do^: and''plainly told us, that he had done nojnore than he ought. Whilft I was afhore af me obfervatory at Karakakooa Bay, Iliad twice an opportunity of feeing a confiderable part of"their funeral rites. Intelligence waller ought me of the death of an old Chief in a houfe near our obfervatories, foon after the event happened. On going to the place, I found a number of people affembled, and^ated round a fquare area, fronting the houfe in which the deceafed lay, whilft a man, in a red feathered cap, advanced from an interior part of the houfe to the door, and putting out his head, at almoft every moment uttered a moft lamentable howl, accompanied with the moft fingular grimaces, and violent diftortions of his face, that can be conceived. After this had paffed a fhort time, a large mat was fpread upon the area, and two men and thirteen women came out of the houfe and feated themfelves down upon it, in three equal rows; the two men, and three of the women, being in front. The necks and hands of the women were decorated with feathered ruffs; and broad green leaves, curioufly fcolloped, were fpread over their fhoulders. At one corner of this area, near a fmall hut, were half a dozen boys waving fmall White banners, and the tufted wands, or taboo flicks, which have been often mentioned in the former chapters, who would not permit us to approach them. This led me to imagine, that the dead body might be depofited iirthis little hurir!buf I afterward underftood, that it was in the houfe where the man in the red cap opened the rites, by playing his tricks'at the £|6or. The ""company juft mentioned, being feated THE P A C I F I C'^O C E A N. feated on the mat, began to fing a melancholy tune, accompanied with a flow and gentle mo- #6h of the body and arms. When this had continued fome time, they raifed themfelves on their knees, and, in a pofture between kneeling and fitting, began by degrees to move their arms and their bodies with great rapidity, the tune always keeping pace with their motions. As thefe laft exertions were too violent to cons tinue long, they refumed, at intervals, their flower movements ; and, after this performance had lafted an hour, more mats were brought and fpread upon the area, and four or five elderly fybmen, amongft whom, I was told, was the dead Chief's wife, advanced flowly out of the houfe, and feating themfelves in the front of tte$ firft company, began to cry and wail moft bitterly ; the women in the three rows behind joining them, whilft the two men inclined their heads over them in a very melancholy and peW #£e attitude. At this period of the rites, I was obliged to leave"them to aHJIfend at the obfervatory ; but returning within halfawfeour, found them in the fame fituation. I continued with them till late in the evening, and left them proceeding with little variation, as juft defcribed ; refolving, however, to attend early in the morning, to fee the remainder of the ceremony. On my arrival at the houfe, as foon as it was day, I found to my mortification, the crowd difperfed, and every thing quiet; and was given to underftand, that the corpfe was removed; nor could I learn in what manner it was difpofed of. I was interrupted in making farther inquiries for this purpofe, by the approach of three women of rank, who, whilft their attendants flood near them with their fly-flaps, fat down by us, and, entering into converfation, foon made me comprehend, that our prefence was a hindrance to the 167 1779- March. .68 1779- March. A VOYAGE TO: the performance of fome neceffary rites. I had hardly got ojg;©f fight, before I heard their cries and lamentations ; and meeting them a few hours afterw%(||tj I found they ha^ffpainted the lower part of their faces perfect black. The other opportunity I had of obferving thefe ceremonies, was in the cafe of an ordinary perfon; when, on hearing fome mournful female cries iffue from a miferable looking hut, I ventured into it, and found an old woman with her daughter, weeping over the body of an elderly man, who had but juft expired, being ftill warm. The firft ftep they took, was to cover the body with cloth, after which, lying down by it, they drew the cloth over themfelves^ and then began a mou^ful kind of fong, frequently repeating, Aweh medoaah ! Aweh tanee ! '■gjjgL my father ! Oh my hialband j^yA. younger daughter was alfo at the fame time lying prof- trate, in a corner of the houfe, covered over with black cloth, repeating the fame words. On leaving this melancholy fcene, I found at the door a number of their neighbours collected together, and liftening toj^ieir cries with profound filence. I was refolved not to mils this opportunity of feeing in what manner they dif- pofe of the body; and therefore, after fatisfying myfelf, before I went to bed, that it was not then removedgr I gave orders, that the -fejitries fhould walk batifes^rd and forward befoMt^e houfe, and, injpafe they fufpected any meafures were takipg for thferemoval of the body, to give me immediate notice. However, the fentries had not kept a good look out, for in the moling I found the body was gone. On inquiring, what they had done with it ? They pointed toward the fea; indicating, moft probably, thereby,, that it had been corJimitted to the deep, or perhaps that it had been carried beyond the bay, to THE PACIFIC OCEAN. to fome burying-ground in another part of the country i The Chiefs are interred in the Morais, or Heree-erees, with the men facrificed on the occafion, by the fide of them; and we obferved, that the Morai, where the Chief had been buried, who, as I have already mentioned, was killed in the &ave, after fo ftout a refiftance, was hiing round with red cloth. a 69 1779. March. A VOYAGE 0< :-0M'&-i -O^OMX3i IrHK* Sg$ .mad.;- ^Sp^di;^ |6£ftXgK - "'Sfivvw^b-^^ijn^ni^^l^^'^i^l |gjg. .>^ jjgjuj Slip* .^wtllfe? ^-i^lkolraPS ^a .sdttfrboll A V O Y A G / T O T H E 9.& PACIFIC OCEAN BOOK VI. Tranfactions during the fecond Expedition to the North, by the Way of Kamtfchatka •, and on the Return Home, by the Way of Canton and the Cape of Good Hope. CHAP. I. Departure from Oneeheow.*—Fruitlefs Attempt to difcover Modoopapappa. — Courfe fteered for Awatfka Bay.—Occurrences during that Paffage... —Sudden Change from Heat to Cold.—Diftrefs occafioned by the leaking of the Refolution.— View of the Coaft of Kamtfchatka.—Extreme Rigour of the Climate.—Lofe Sight of the Difcovery. — The Refolution enters the Bay of Ansoatfk —Profpecl of the Town of Saint Peter andsSaint Paul.—Party fent afhore—Their Reception by the Commanding Officer of the Port.— Meffage difpatched to the Commander at Bolcheretfk.—Arrival of the Difcovery.—Return of fhe Meffengers from the Commander. — Extraordinary A VOYAGE TO ordinary Mode of travelling.—Vifit from a Merchant, and a German' Servant belonging to the Commander. N the 15th of March, at feven in the morning, we weighed anchor, and palling to the North of Tahoora, ftood en to the South Weft, in hopes of falling in with the ifland of Modoopapappa, which, we were told by the natives, lay in that direction, about five hours fail from Tahoora. At four in the afternoon, we were overtaken by a flout canoe, with ten men, who were going from Oneeheow to Tahoora, to kME- tropic and man-of-war birds, with which that place was faid to abound. It has been mentioned before, that the feathers of thefe birds are in great requeft, being much ufed in making their cloaks, and other ornamental parts of their drefs. At eight, having feen nothing of the ifland, we hauled the wind to the Northward, till midnight, and then tacked, and ftood on a wind to the South Eaft, till day-light next morning, at which time Tahoora bore Eaft North Eaft, five or fix leagues diftant. We afterward fteered Weft South Weft, and made the Difcovery I fignal to fpread four miles upon our ftarboard beam. At noon, our latitude was 21° 27', and our longitude ioS° 42'; and having ftood on till five in the fame direction, we made the Difco- very's fignal to come under our llern, and gave over all hopes of feeing Modoopapappa. We conceived, that it might probably lie in a more Southerly direction from Tahoora, than that in which we had fteered; though, after all, it is poffible, that we might have paffed it in the night, as the iflanders defcribed it to be very fmall, and almoft even with the furface d$\ the fea. The THE PACIFIC OCEAN. >73 The next day, we fleered Weft; it being *7-79- Captain felerke's intention to keep as near as ^^J poffible in the fame parallel of latitude, tl| we yvednef. fhould make the longitude of Awatfka Bay, and § afterward to fleer due North for the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul in that bay ; which was alfo appointed for our rendezvous, in cafe of feparation. This track was chofen on account of its being, as far as we knew, unexplored ; and we were not without hopes of falling in with fome new iflands on our paffage. We had fcarcely feen a bird, fince our lofing fight of Tahoora, till th#i Sth in the aftertfoon, Thurfdaj when, being in the latitude oWsfi° 12', and the *'t8. longitude of 1940 45', the appearance of a great many boobies, and fome man-of-war birds, made us keep a ftiarp look-out for land. Toward evening, the wind leffened, and the North Eaft fwell, which, on the 16th and 17th, had been fo heavy as to make the fhips labour exceedingly, was much abated. The next day, we Friday faw no appearance of land; and at noon, we »9- fteered a point more to the Southward, viz. Weft by South, in the hopes of finding the trade winds (which blew almoft invariably from the Eaft by North) freftier as we^'advanced within the tropic. It is fomewhat fingular, that though we faw no birds in the forenoon, yet toward evening we had again a number of boobies and man-of-war birds about us. This feemed to indicate, that we had paffed the land from whence the former fligrlls had come, and that we were approaching fome other low ifland. The wind continued very moderate, with fine weather, till the 2,sd, when it frefhened from'j«ue{y the North Eaft by Eaft, and increafed to a ftrong aW- gale, which fplit fome of our old fails, and made the running rigging very frequently give way. This gale failed twelve hours; it then became more »779- March. Thur. 25. Frid. 26. O more moderate, and continued fo, till the 25th at noon, when we entirely loft it, and had only a very light air. On the 26th in the morning, we thought we faw land to the Weft South Weft, but, after running about fixteen leagues in that direction, we found our miftake; and night coming on, we again fteered Weft. Our latitude, at this time, was iq° 45', which was the greateft Southing we made in this run ; our longitude was 1830, and variation 120 45' Eaft. We continued in this courfe, with little alteration in the wind, till the 29th, when it fhifted to the South Eaft and South South Eait, and, for a few hours in the night, it was in the Weft; the weather being dark and cloudy, with much rain. We had met, for fome days paft, feveral turtles, one of which was the fmalleft I ever faw, not exceeding three inches in length. We were alfo accompanied by man-of-war birds, ^and boobies of an unufual kind, being quite white (except the tip of the wing, which was black), and eafily miftaken, at firft fight, for gannets. The light winds which we had met with for fome time paft, with the prefent unfettled ftate of the weather, and the little appearance of any change for the better, induced Captain Clerke to alter his plan of.keeping within the tropical latitudes; and accordingly, at fix this we began to fleer North Weft by North, at which time our latitude was 200 23', and our longitude i8o°4o'. During the cojfe tinuance of the light winds, which prevailed almoft conftantly ever fince our departure from the Sandwich Iflands, the weather was very cl0fe9 and the air hot and fultry; the thermometer being generally at 8o°, and fometimes a confiderable fwell ■ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 175 fwell from the North Eaft; and in no period of *779-' the voyage did the fhips roll and ftrain fo vio- t rct^ letitly. In the morning of the ift of April, me wind April. changed from the South Eaft to the North Eaft Thurf- *• by Eaft, and blew a frefll breeze, till the morning of the 4th, when it altered two points more Sunday to the Eaft, and by noon increafed to a ftrong 4- gale, whichiafted till the afternoon of the 5th, Monday attended with hazy weather. It then again 5. altered its direction to the South Eaft, became more moderate, and was accompanied by heavy fhowers of rain. During all this time, we kept; fleering to the North Weft, againft a flow buif regular current from that quarter, which caufed a conftant variation from our reckoning by the log, of fifteen miles a day. On the 4th, being then in the latitude 260 17', and longitude 1730 30', we paffed prodigious quantities of what failors call Portuguefe men-of-war (holothuria phyfalis), and were alfo accompanied with a great number of fea birds, amongft which we obferved, for the firft time, the albatrofs and fheerwater. On the 6th, at noon, we loft the trade wind, Tuefd. 6. and were fuddenly taken a-back, with the wind from the North North Welt. At this time, our latitude was 290 50', and our longitude i*f6b: 1'. As the old running ropes were conftantly breaking in the late gales, we reeved what new ones we had left, and made fuch other preparations, as were neceffary for the very'Idifferent climate with which we were now fhortly to encounter. The fine weather we met with between the tropics, had not been idly fpent. The carpenters found fufficient employment in repa?rmg the boats. The Beft bower cable had been fo much damaged by the foul ground in Karakakooa Bay, ' and -litfi'ASj xj -&*.n A VOYAGE TO and whilft we were at anchor off Oneeheow* thfifUw^e were obliged to cut forty fathoms .from it; in converting of which, with other old cordage, into fpun-yarn, and applying it to different iffes, a confiderable part of the people werejcept conftantly employed by the boatfwain. The airing of fails and other ftores, which, from the leakinefs of the decks and fides of the fhips, •were perpetually fubject to be wet, had now become a frequent as weli„as a laborious and troublefome fprt of our duty. Befides thefe cares, which had regard only to the fhips themfelves, there were others, which had for their object the prefervation of the health of the crews, that furnifhed a conftant occupation to a&reat number of our hands. The landing ordeis, eftabliflied by Captain Cook, of airing the bedding, placing fires betweiai decks, wafhing them with vinegar, and fmoking them with gunpowder, were obferved without any intermiffion. For fome time paft, even the operation of mending the failors old jackets had irifen into a duty both of difficulty and importance. Jtrmay be neceffary to inform thofeJ.Tjvho are xmacquainted with the difpofition and habits of feamen,■ .that they are fo accuftomed in fhips of war to be directed in the care of themfelves by. their officers, that they lofe the very^* idea of fore- fight, and contract the thoughtleffnefs of infants, lamfure, that if "our people had been, left to theft ow^TLidifcretion alone, we fhould have had the w&leLarew naked, before the voyage had been half finifhed. It was natural to expedl, that their experience, during our voyage to the Nor.tnJaft year, would have made them fenfible of the ne&pftity of paying fome attention tcvthefe matters ; but if fuch reflections ever occurred to them,£their impreffion was fo tranfitory, thai* upon our return to the tropical climates, their TW\Mf '77?- April. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. »77 fur jackets, and the reft of their cold country clothes, were kicked about the decks as things of no value; tti^aigh it was generally known, in both fhips, that we were to make another voyage toward the pole. They were, of courfe, picked up by the officers ; and, being put into cafks, reftored about this time to the owners. In the afternoon, we obferved fome of the fheathing floating by the (hip ; and, on examination, ffo&nd that twelve or fourteen feet had been wafhed~-off froM under the larboard-bow, where we fuppofed the leak to have been, which, ever fince our leaving Sandwich Iflands, had kept the people almovt constantly at the pumps, making tMr©Ne inches wafer an hour. This day we few a number of fmall osabs, of a pale blue colojSt; and- had again, in company, a few albafSoffes and! Cheer waters^ The thermometer, in the night-time, funk eleven degrees ; and although it ftill remained as high as §ga, yet we fuffered much from the cold ; our feelings being, as yet, by no means, reconciled to that degree- of teroper^fpre. 30?he wind continued blow$ftg frefh from the North, till the eighth, in the morning, When it Thurf. 8 became more moderate, with fair weather, and gradually changed its direction to the Eaft, and afterward to the South. On the ninth, at noon, our latitude was 320 Friday o 16'; our longitude 1660 40'; and the variation S° 30' Eaft. And on the MSith, having croffed the track of the Spanifh galleons from the Ma- Saturday nillas to Acapulco, we expected to have fallen in with the Ifland of Rica de Plata, which, according to De Lille's chart in which the route of thofe fhips is laid down, oughf-io have been in fight ; its latitude, as there given, being ^3^ 3°' North, and its longitude 1660 Eaft. Notwith- llanding we were fo far advanced to the North- Vol. III. N ward, 10. 178 1779- April. Monday Jz. A VOYAGE TO ward, we faw this day a tropic bird, and affo: feveral other kinds of fea-birds ; fuch as puffins,, fea-parrots, lheerwaters, and albatroffes. On the eleventh, at noon, we were in latitude 35° 3°'» longitude 1650 45'; and daring the courfe of the day, had fea-birds, as before, and paffed feveral bunches of fea-weed. About the fame time, the Difcovery paffed a log of wood ^ but no other figns of iahjri were feen. The next day the wind came gradually round to the Eaft, and increafed to fo ftrong a gale, as obliged us to ftrike our top-gallant yards, and brought us under the lower fails, and the main top-fail clofe reefed. Unfortunately we were upon that tack, which was the moft difadvantageous for our leak. But, as we had always been able to keep it under with the hand-pumps, it gave us no great uneafinefs, till the 13th, about fix in the afternoon, when we were greatly alarmed by a fudden inundation, that deluged the whole fpace between decks. The water, which had lodged in the coal-hole, not finding a fufficient vent into the well, had forced up the platforms over it, and in a moment fet every thing afloat. Our fituation was indeed exceedingly diftreffing; nor did we immediately fee any means of relieving ourfelves. A pump, through the upper decks into the coal-hole, could anfwer no end, as it would very foon have been choaked up by the fmall coals ; and, to bale the water out with buckets, was become impracticable, from the number of bulky materials that were wafhed out of the gunner's ftore-room into it, and which, by the fhip's motion, were toifed violently from fide to fide. No other method was therefore left, but to cut a hole through the bulk-head (or partition) that feparated the coal hole from the fore-hold, and by that means to make a paffage for THE PACIFIC OCEAN. r'79 1779. April. for the body of water into the well. However, before that it could be done, it was neceffary to get the calks of dry provifions out of the forehold, which kept us employed the greateft part of the night ; fo that the carpenters could not get at the partition till the next morning. Wednef. As foon as a paffage was made, the greateft 14. part of the water emptied itfelf into the well, and enabled us to get out the reft with buckets. But the leak was now fo much increafed, that we were obliged to keep one half of the people conftantly pumping and baleing, till the noon of the 15th. Our men bore, with great cheer- Thurf. fulnefs, this exceffive fatigue, which was much 'S- increafed by their having no dry place to fleep in; and, on this account, we began to ferve their full allowance of grog. The weather now becoming more moderate, and the fwell lefs heavy, we were enabled to clear away the rell^of the cafks from the fore- hold, and to open a fufficient paffage for the water to the pumps. This day we faw a green- ifh piece of drift-wood, and fancying the water coloured, we founded, but got no bottom with a hundred and fixty fathoms of line. Our latitude, at noon this day, was .41° 52', longitude 1610 15'; variation 6° 30' Eaft ; and the wind foon after veering to the Northward, we altered our courfe three points to the Weft. On the 16th, at noon, we were in the latitude Friday of 420 12', and in the longitude of 1600 5'; and 16. as we were now approaching the place where a great extent of land is faid to have been feen by De Gama, we were glad of the opportunity which the courfe we were fleering gava, of contributing to remove the doubts, if any fhould be ftill entertained, refpecting the falfehood of this pretended difcovery. For it is to be ob- N 2 ferved, 0 IJ iffi rSo A VOYAGE TO* 1779- April. Sunday 18. ferved, that no one has ever yet been able to find who John de Gama was,, when he lived, or what year this pretended difcovery was made. According to Mr. Muller, the firft account of it given to the Public was in a chart publifhed by Texeira, a Portugueze geographer, in 1649, who places it in ten or twelve degrees to the North Eaft of Japan, between the latitudes of 440 and 450; and announce it to be land feen by John de Gama, the Indian, in a voyage from China to New Spain. On what grounds the French geographers have fince removed it five degrees to the Eaftward, does not appear; except we fuppofe it to have been in order to make room for another difcovery of the fame kind made by the Dutch, called Company's Land; of which we fhall have occafion to fpeak hereafter. During the whole day, the wind was exceedingly unsettled, being feldom fleady to two or three points; and blov/ing in frefh gufts,. which were fucceeded by dead calms. Thefe were not unpromifing appearances; but, after ftanding off and on, the whole of this day, without feeing any thing of the land, we again fteered to the Northward, not thinking it worth our while to lofe time in fearch of an object,, the opinion of whofe exiftence had been already pretty generally exploded. Our people were employed the whole of the 16th, in getting their wet things to dry, and in airing the fhips below. We now began to feel very fharply the in- creafing inclemency of the Northern climate. In the morning of the 18th, our latitude being 450 40', and our longitude 160° 25', we had fnow and fleet, accompanied with ftrong gales from the South Weft. This circumftance will appear very THE PACIFIC OCEAN. r8.i very remarkable, if we confider the feafon of 1779- the year^ and the quarter from which the wind April. blew. On the 19th, the thermometer, in the Monday day-time, remained at the freezing point, and ,n ■at four in the morning fell to 290. .fff the reader will take the troable to compare the degree of heat, during the hot fultry weather we had at the begin|l|ing of this month, with the extreme ■cold which we now endured, he will conceive how feverely fo rapid a change muft have been felt by us. In the gale of the 18th, we had fplit almoft aji the iaiis we had bent, which being our fecond beft fait, we weag now reduced to make ufe of our laft and beft fet. To add to Captain Clerke's difficulties, the fea was in general fo rough, and the Slips fo leaky, that the fail-makers had no place to repair the fails in, except his apartments, \ which, in his declining ftate of health, was a ferious inconvenience to him. On the 20th, at noon, being in latitude 490 Tuef. 20. 45'North, and longitude 1610 15' Eaft; and eagerly expecting to fall in with the coaft of Afia,|pje wind ftiifted fuddenly to the North, and continued in the fame quarter the following day. However, although it retarded our progrefs, yet the mst weather it brought was no fmall refrefliment to us. In the forenoon of the Wed. 21. 21 ft, we faw a whale, and a land-bird; and, in the afternoon, the water looking muddy, we founded, but got no ground with an hundred and forty fathoms of line. During the three preceding days, we faw large flocks of wildfowl, of a fpecies refembling ducks. This is <ufually confidered as a proof of the vicinity of land ; but we had no other figns of it, fince the*;r6th; in which time we had run upward of an hundred and fifty leagues. On 18a Friday A VOYAGE TO On the 2 2d, the wind fluffed to the Nortl|- Eafl, attended with mifty weather. The cold 7 was exceedingly fevere, and the ropes were fo frozen, that it was with difficulty we could force them through the blocks. At noon, the latitude, by account, was gi° 38', longitude 1600 7'; and on comparing our prefent pofition with that given to the Southern parts of Kamtfchatka, in the Ruffian charts, Captain Clerke did not think it prudent to run on toward the land all night. We therefore tacked at ten ; and, having founded, had ground agreeably to our conjectures, with feventy fathoms of line. On the 23d, at fix in the morning, being in latitude 52° 09', and longitude 1600 07', on the fog clearing away, the land appeared in mountains covered with fnow ; and extending from North three quarters Eaft, to South Weft, a high conical rock, bearing South Weft, three quarters Weft, at three or four leagues diftance. We had no fooner taken this imperfect view, than we were again covered with a thick fog. Being now, according to our maps, only eight leagues from the entrance of Awatfka Bav, as foon as the weather cleared up, we ftood in to take a nearer view of the land i and a more dif- mal and dreary profpect I never beheld. The coaft appears ftraight and uniform, having no inlets or bays; the ground, from the fhore, rifes in hills of a moderate elevation, behind which are ranges of mountains, whofe fummits were loft in the clouds. The whole fcene was entirely covered with fnow, except the fides of fome of the cliffs, which rofe too abruptly froll| the fea for the fnow to lie upon them. The wind continued blowing very ftrong from the North Eaft, with thick hazy weather and fleet, from the 24th till the 28th. During the whole time, the thermometer was never higher THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 1-83 trigher than 304. °. The fhip appeared to be 1779- a complete mafs of ice; the fhrowds were fo, ^ff\'_ incrufted with it, as to meafure in circumference -more than double their ufual fize ; and, in fhort, the experience of the oldeft feaman among us, had never met with any thing like the continued fhowers of fleet, and the extreme cold, which we now encountered. Indeed the feve- rity of the weather, added- to the great difficulty of working the fhips, and the labour of keeping the pumps conilantly going, rendered the fervice too hard for many of the crew, fome of whom were fijbft-bitten, and others laid up with bad colds. We continued all this time ftanding four hours on each tack, having generally foundings of fixty fathoms, when about three leagues from the land; but none at twice that diftance. On the 25th we had a tranfient view of the sunc:a» entrance of Awatfka Bay ; but, in the prefent 25. ftate of the weather, we were afraid of venturing into it. Upon our ftanding off again, we loft fight of the Difcovery; but, as we were now fo near the place of rendezvous, this gave us no great uneafinefs. On the 28th, in the morning, the weather at w , - laft cleared, and the wind fell to a light breeze xgf from the fame quarter as before. We had a fine warm day; and, as we now began to expect a thaw, the men were employed in breaking the ice from off the rigging, mafts, and fails, in order to prevent its falling on our heads. At noon, being in the latitude of 52® 44', and the longitude of 159°, the entrance of Awatfka Bay bore North Weft, diftant three or four leagues ; and, about three in the afternoon, a fair wind fprung up from the Southward, with which we ftood in, having regular foundings, from twenty-two to feven fathoms. la The A VOYAGE TO 1779. April. The mouth of the bay opens in a North North Weft direction. The land, on the South fide, is of a moderate height; to the North- (W-ard, it rifes into a bluff he$'d, wbf&h is the higheft part of the coaft. In the channel between them, near the North Eaft fide, lie thr^e remarkable rocks; and, farther in, near the oppofite coaft, a fingle detached rock of a confiderable fize. On the North head there is a look-out houfe, which, when the 'Ruffians expect any of their fhips upon the cos*il, is fjfed as a light-houfe. There was a flag ftaff on it; but we faw no fign of any perfon being there. Having paffed the mouth of 'tile bay, which is about four miles long, we opened a large circular bafon of twenty-five miles in ciffcum- ference [ and, at half paft four, carhfe to an anchor in fix fathoms water, being afraid of running foul On a fhoal, or fome funk #fceks, which are faid by Muller *, to lie in the channel of the harbour of St. Bgter and St. Paul. The middle of the bay was full of loofe ice, drifting with the tide ; but the fhofes were ftill entirely blocked up with it. Great flocks of wild-fowl were fsen of various fpecies ; likewife ravens, eagles, and large flights of Greenland pigeons. We examined every corner of the bay, with our glaffes, in fearch of the town of St. Peter and St. Paul; which, according to the accounts given us at Oonalafka, we bad conceived to be a place of fome ftrength and confi- deration. At length we difcovered, on a narrow point of land to the North North Eaft, a few miferable log-houfes, and fome conical huts, raifed on poles, amounting in all to about thirty ; which, from their fituation, notwithfland- * Voyages made by the Ruffians from Afia to America, &c. iranflated from the German ; by T. Jefferys, P- 37- ing THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ing all the refpect we wifhed to entertain for a Ruffian oftrog, we were under the neceffity of concluding to be Petropaulowfka. However, in juftice to the generous and hofpitable treatment we found here, I fhall beg leave to anticipate the reader's curiofity, by affuring him, that our difappointment proved to be more of a laughable than a ferious nature. For, in this wretched extremity of the earth, fituated beyond every thing that we conceived to be moft barbarous and inhofpitable, and, as it were, out of the very reach of civilization, barricaded with ice, and covered sith fummer fnow, in a poor mifer- able port, far inferior to the meaneft of our fifhing towns, we met with feelings of humanity, joined to a greatjfiefs of mind, and elevation of fentiment, which would have done honour to any nation or climate. During the night, much ice drifted by us with the tide, and at day-light I was fent with T,,„vrjo„ , , ' . , , iii- , l "unsay the boats to examine the bay, and deliver the letters we had brought from Oonalafhka to the Ruffian Commander. We directed our courfe toward -the village I have juft mentioned, and having proceeded as far as we were able with the boats, we got upon the ice, which extended near half a mile from the fhore. Mr. Webber, and two of the feamen, accompanied me, whilft the Mafter took the pinnace and cutter to finifh the furvey, leaving the jolly-boat behind to carry us back. I believe the inhabitants had not yet feen either the fhip or the boats; for even after we had got on the ice, we could not perceive any figns of a living creature in the town. By the time we had advanced a little way on the ice, we obferved a few men hurrying backward and forward, and prefently after, a fledge drawn by jdogs with one of the inhabitants in it, came down 29- A VOYAGE TO down to the fea-fide, oppofite to us. Whilft we were gazing at this unufual fight, and admiring the great civility of this flranger, which we imagined had brought him to our affiftance, the man, after viewing us for fome time very attentively, turned fhort round, and went ofl^ with great 'fpeed, toward the oftrog. We were not lefs chagrined than dhappointed at this abrupt departure, as we began to find our journey over the ice, attended not only with, great difficulty, but even with danger. „ We funk at every ftep almoft knee deep in the fnow, and though we found tolerable footing at the bottom, yet the weak parts of the ice not being difcoverable, we were conftantly ex- pofed to the rifk of breaking through it. This accident at laft actually happened to myfelf; for flepping on quickly over a fufpicious fpot, in order to prefs with lets weight upon it, I came npon a fecond, before I could flop myfelf, which broke under me, and in I fell. Luckily, I rofe clear of the ice, and a man that was a little way behind with a boat-hook, throwing it to me, I laid it acrofs fome loofe pieces near me, and, by that means, was enabled to get upon firm ice in.. As we approached the fhore, we found the ice, contrary to our expectations, more broken than it had been before. We were, however, again comforted by the fight of another fledge coming toward us, but inftead of proceeding to our relief, the driver ftopt fhort, and began to call out to us. I immediately held up to him Ifmyloff's letters ; upon which he turned about, and fet off back again full fpeed; followed, I believe, not with the prayers of any of our party. Being at a great lofs what conclufions to draw from this unaccountable behaviour, we continued our march toward the oftrog, with great circumfpection, and when we had arrived within a quarter ig< THE PACIFIC OCEAN. a quarter of a mile of it, we perceived a body of armed men marching toward us. That we fc might give them as little alarm, and have as peaceable an appearance as poffible, the two men who had boat-hooks in their hands, were ordered into the rear, and Mr. Webber and myfelf marched in front. The Ruffian party, confuting of about thirty foldiers, was headed by a decent looking perfon, with a cane in his hand. He halted within a few yards of us, and drew up his men in a martial and good order. I delivered to him IfmylofPs letters, and endeavoured to make him -underftand, as well as I could (though 1 afterward found in vain), that we were Engiifh, and had brought them papers from Oonalafhka. After having examined us attentively, he began to conduct us toward the village, in great filence and folemnity, frequently halting his men, to form them in different manners, and making them perform feveral parts of their manual ex- ercife, probably with a view to fhew us, that if we had the temerity to offer any violence, we fhould have to deal with men who were not ignorant of their bufinefs. Though 1 was all this time in my wet clothes, fhivering with cold, and fufficiently inclined to the moft unconditional fubmiffion, without having my fears violently alarmed ; yet it was im- poffible not to be diverted with this military parade, notwithftanding it was attended with the moft unfeafonable delay. At length, we arrived at the houfe of the Commanding Officer of the party, into which we were ufhered ; and, after no fmall ftir in giving orders, and difpofing of the military without doors, our hoft made his appearance, accompanied by another perfon, whom we underftood to be the Secretary of the port. One of Ifmyloff's letters was now opened, and the other fent off, by a fpecial meffenger to Bolcheretfk, a town on the Weft fide of the peninfula 1S7 *779- April- A VOYAGE T O peninfula of Kamtfchatka, where the Ruffian Commander of this province ufually refides. It is very remarkable, that they had not feen the fhip the preceding day, when we came to anchor in the bay, nor indeed this morning, till our boats were pretty near the ice. The panic with which the difcovery had, ftruck them, we found had been very confiderable. The garrifon was immediately put under arms. Two fmall field- pieces were placed at the entrance of the^Com- mander's houfe, and pointed toward our boats ; and (hot, powder, and lighted matches were all ready at hand. The officer, in whofe houfe we were at prefent ■entertained, was a Serjeant, and the Commander of the -oftrog. Nothing could exceed the kind- nefs and hofpitality of his behaviour, after he had recovered from the alarm occafioned by our arrival. We found the houfe infuffe^bly hot, but exceedingly neat and clean. After I had changed my clothes, which the Serjeant's civility -enabled me to do, by furnifhing me with a complete fiiit of his own, we were invited to fit down to dinner, which I have no doubt was the beft he could procure; and, confidering the fhortnefs of time he had to provide it, was managed with fome inge&l&ity. As there was not •$|ifie to prepare foup and houitli, we had, in their ftead, fome cold beef fliced, with hot water poured over it. We had next a large bird roafted, of a fpecies with which I was unac- ifii&inted, but of a very excellent tafte. After having eaten a part of this, it was taken off, and we were ferved with fifh dfWfed two different ways ; and, foon after, the bird again made its appearance, in favory and fweet pates. Our liquor, of which I fhall have to fpeak hereafter, was of the kind called by the Ruffians quafs, and was much the worfe part of tip entertainment. The THE PA jrffa I F I C OCEAN. *j5'9> The Serieant's wife brought in feveral of the '779- difhes herfelf, and was not permitted to fit f_?r down at table. Having, finifhed our repafl, "~v~™ during which it is hardly neceffary to remark, that our converfation was confined to a few bows, and other figns of mutual refpect, we endeavoured to open to our holt the caufe and objects of our vifit to this port. As Ifmyloff had probably written to them on the fame fubject, in the letters we had before delivered, he appeared very readily to conceive our meaning; but as there was unfortunately no one in the place that could talk any other language except Ruffian or Kamtfchadale, we found the utmoft difficulty in comprehending the information he meant to convey to us. After fome time fpent in thefe endeavours to underftand one another, we conceived the fum of the intelligence we had procured, to be, that though no fupply, either of provifions or naval ftores were to be had at this place, yet that thefe articles were in great plenty at Bolcheretfk. That the Commander would, moft probably, be very willing to give us what we wanted; but that, till the Serjeant had received orders from him, neither he nor his people, nor the natives, could even venture to go on board the fhip. It was now time for us to take our leave;-. and, as my clothes were ftill too wet to put on, I was obliged to have recourfe again to the Serjeant's benevolence, for his leave to carry thofe I had borrowed of him on board. This re- queft was complied with very cheerfully, and a fledge,, drawn by five dogs, with a driver, was immediately provided for each of ©ur party. The failors were highly delighted with this mode ©f conveyance; and what diverted them ftill more was, that the two boat-hooks had alfo a fledge appropriated to themfelves. Thefe fledges A VOYAGE TO are fo light, and their conftruction fo well adapted to the purpofes for which they are intended, that they went with great expedition, and perfect fafety, over the ice, which it would have been impoffible for us, with all our caution, to have paffed on foot. On our return, we found the boats towing the fhip toward the village; and at feven we got clofe to the ice, and moored with the fmall bower to the North Eaft, and beft bower to the South Weft; the entrance of the bay bearing South by Eaft, and South three-quarters Eaft; and the oftrog North, one quarter Eaft, diftant one mile and a half. The next morning, the cafks and cables were got upon the quarter-deck, in order to lighten the fhip forward; and the carpenters were fet to work to flop the leak, which had given us fo much trouble during our laft run. It was found to have been occafioned by the falling of fome fheathing from the larboard-bow, and the oakum between the planks having been wafhed out. The warm weather we had in the middle of the day, began to make the ice break away very faft, which, drifting with the tide, had almoft filled up the entrance of the bay. Several of our gentlemen paid their vifits to the Serjeant, by whom they were received with great civility ; and Captain Clerke fent him two bottles of.rum which he underftood would be the moft acceptable prefent he could make him, and received in return fome fine fowls of the groufe .kind, and twenty trouts. Our fportmen met with but bad fuccefs ; for though the bay fwarm- ed with flocks of ducks of various kinds, and Greenland pigeons, yet they were fo fhy, that they could not come within fhot of them. In the morning of the ift of May, feeing the Difcovery ftanding into the bay, a boat was immediately fent to her affiftance; and in the afternoon, fhe moored clofe by us. They told us, .THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 19c- us, that after the weather cleared up on the 28th, '779- the day on which fhe had parted company, they,_ a_7'L1 found themfelves to leeward of the bay, and that when they got abreaft of it, the following day, and faw the entrance choaked up with ice, they ftood off, after firing guns, concluding we could not be here ; but finding afterward it was only loofe drift-ice, they bad ventured in. The next day, the weather was fo very unfet- Sundays tied, attended with heavy fhowers of fnow, that the carpenters were not able to proceed in their work. The thermometer flood at 28° in the evening, and the froft was exceedingly fevere in the night. The fofpwing morning, on our obferving Monday two fledges drive into the village, Captain Clerke 3. fent me on fhore, to inquire whether any mef- fage was arrived from the Commander of Kamtfchatka, which, according to the Serjeant's account, might now be expected, in confequence of the intelligence that had been fent of our arrival. Bolcheretfk, by the ufual route, is about one hundred and thirty-five Engiifh miles from Saint Peter and Saint Paul's. Our difpatches were fent off in a fledge drawn by dogs, on the 29th, about noon. And the anfwer arrived, as we afterward found, early this morning; fo that they were only a little more than three days and a half in performing a journey of two hundred and feventy miles. The return of the Commander's anfwer was, however, concealed from us for the prefent ; and I was told, on my arrival at the Serjeant's, that we fhould hear from him the next day. Whilft 1 was on fhore, the boat, which had brought me, together with another belonging to the Difcovery, were fet faft in the ice, which a Southerly wind had driven from the other fide of the bay. On feeing them entangled, the Difcovery's launch 11 A VOYAGE TO launch had been fent to their affiftance, but foort fhared the fame fate; and, in a fhort time, the ice had furrounded them near a quarter of a mile deep. This obliged us to flay on fhore till evening, when finding no profpect of getting the boats off, fome of us went in fledges to the edge of the ice, and were' taken off by boats fent from the fhip, and the reft ftaid on fhore all night. K It continued to freeze hard during the night; but, before morning, on the 4th, a change of wind drifted away the floating ice, and fet the boats at liberty, without their having fuftained the fmalleft damage. About ten o'clock in the forenoon, we faw feveral fledges driving down the edge of the ice, and fent a boat to conduct the perfons who were in them on board. One of thefe was a Ruffian merchant from Bolcheretfk, named Fedofitfch, and the other a Gfpnan, called Port, who had brought a letter from Major Behm, the Commander of Kamtfchatka, to Captain Clerke. When they got to the edge of the ice, and faw diftinctly the fize of the fhips, which lay within about two hundred yards from them, they appeared to be'jfxceedingly alarmed -, and, before they would venture to embark, defired two of our boat's crew might be left on fhore as hof- tages for their fafety. We afterward found, that Ifmyloff, in his letter to the Commander, had mifreprefented us, for what reafons we could not conceive, as two fmall trading boats, and that the Serjeant, who had only feen the fhips at a diftance, had not, in his difpatches, rectified the miftake. When they arrived on board, we ftill found, from their cautious and timorous behaviour, that they were under fome unaccountable apprehenfions ; and an uncommon degree of fatisfaclion THE PACIFIC OCEAN. fatisfaction was vifible in their countenances, on the German's finding a perfon amongft us, with whom he could converfe. This was Mr. Web-^ ber, who fpoke that language perfectly well; and at laft, though with fome difficulty, convinced them, that we were Engliflimen, and friends. Mr. Fort being introduced to Captain Clerke, delivered to him the Commander's letter, which was written in German, and was merely complimental, inviting him and his officers to Bolcheretfk, to which place the people, who brought it, were to conduct us. Mr. Port, at the fame time, acquainted him, that the Major had conceived a very wrong idea of the fize of the fhips, and of the fervice we were engaged in; Ifmyloff, in his letter, having reprefented us as two fmall Engiifh pacquet boats, and cautioned him to be on his guard ; infinua- ting, that he fufpected us to be no better than pirates. In confequence of this letter, he faid, there had been various conjectures formed about us at Bolcheretfk: that the Major thought it moft probable we were on a trading fcheme, and for that reafon had fent down a merchant to us ; but that the officer, who was fecond in command, was of opinion we were French, and come with fome hoftile intention, and were for taking meafures accordingly. It had required, he added, all the Major's authority to keep the inhabitants from leaving the town, and retiring up into the country ; to fo extraordinary a pitch had their fears rifen, from their perfuafion that we were French. Their extreme apprehenfions of that nation were principally occafioned, by fome circumftances attei||ing an infurrection that had happened at Bolcheretfk, a few years before, in which im Commander had loll his life. We 193 1779. May. were informed, that an exiled Polifh officer, Vol. III. O named i94 *779- May. 'tomi" A VOYAGE TO named Beniowfki, taking advantage of the cob-*- fufion into which the town was thrown, had feized upon a galliot, then lying at the entrance of the Bolchoireka, and had forced on board a number of Ruffian failors, fufficient to navigate her: that he had put on fhore a part of the crew at the Kourile Iflands; and, among the reft, Ifmyloff, who, as the reader will recollect, had puzzled us exceedingly, at Oonalafhka, witji the hiftory of this transaction ; though, /jf>r want of underftanding his language, we could not then make out all the cifcum- ftances attending itj that he paffed in fight of Japan ; made Luconia ; and was there directed how to fleer to ^.anton : that arriving there, he had applied to the French, and had got a paffage in one of their India fhips to France : and that moft of the Ruffians had like likewife returned to Europe in French fhips; and had afterward found their way to Peterfburg. We met with three of Beniowfki's crew in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul ; and from them we learnt the circumftances of the above ilory."% On our arrival at Canton, we received a farther corroboration of the facts, from the gentlemen of the Engiifh factory, who told us, that a perfon had arrived there in a Ruffian galliot, who faid he came from Kamtfchatka; and that he had been furifhed by the French factory, with a . paffage to Europe *. We could not help being much diverted with the fears, and apprehenfions of thefe good people, and particularly with the account M. Port gave us of the Serjeant's wary proceedings the * It hath fince appeared,from the account of Kerguelen's Voyage, lhat this extraordinary perfon, who had entered into the French fervice, was commander of a new fettlement at Madagafcar, when Kerguelen touched there in '774- day THE PACIFIC Q C E A ft day before. On feeing me come on fhore, in company with fome other gentlemen, he had made him and the merchant, who arrived in the fledges we had feen come in the morning, hide themfelves in his kitchen* and liften to our converfation with one another, in hopes, that by this means, they might difcover whether we were really Engiifh or not. As we concluded, from the commiffion and drefs of M. Port, that he might probably be the Commander's fecretary, he was received as fuch, and invited, with his Companion, the merchant, to dine with Captain Clerke: and though we foon began to fufpect, from the behaviour of the latter toward him, that he was only a common fervant, yet this being no time to faerifice our little comforts to our pride, we prevented an explanation, by not fuffering the queflion to be put to him; and, in return for the fatisfaction we reaped from his abilities as a linguift, we continued to let him live on a footing of equality with us. .193 •779- May. 13 1 O CHAP. 196 VOYAGE T CHAP. II. Scarcity of Provifions and Stores at the Harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.—A Party fet out to vifit the Commander at Bolcheretfk.—Paffage up the River Awatfka.—Account of their Reception by the Toion of Karatchin.—Defcription of a Kamtfchadale Drefs. —j Journey on Sledges.—- Defcription of this Mode of Travelling.—Arrival at Natcheekin. — Account of hot Springs.— Embark on the Bolchoireka.—Reception at the Capital.—Generous and hofpitable Conducl of the Commander and the Garrifon. — Defcription of Bole her etfa. — Prefents from the Commander.— Ruffian and Kamtfchadale Dancing. — Affetl- ing Departure from Bolcheretfk. ■— Return to Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, accompanied by Major Behm, who vifits the Ships.—Gene- rofity of the Sailors. — Difpatches fent by Major Behm to Peterfburg.—His Departure and Charatler. 1779. May. E I N G now enabled to converfe with the Ruffians, by the aid of our interpreter, with tolerable facility, our firft inquiries were directed to the means of procuring a fupply of frefh provifions, and naval ftores ; from the want of which latter article, in particular, we had been for fome time in great diftrefs. On inquiry, 1C appeared, that the whole flock of live cattle, which the country about the bay could THE PACIFIC OCEAN. could furnifh, amounted only to two heifers; and thefe the ferjeant very readily promifed to procure us. Our applications were next made to the merchant, but we found the terms, upon which he offered to ferve us, fo exorbitant, that Captain Clerke thought it neceffary to fend an officer to vifit the Commander at Bolcheretfk, and to inquire into the price of ftores at that -place. As foon as this determination was communicated to Mr. Port, he difpatched an exprefs to the Commander, to inform him of our intentions, and, at the fame time, to clear us from the fufpicions that were entertained with refpect to the defignation and purpofes of our voyage. Captain Clerke having thought proper to fix Tuefday on me for this fervice, I received orders, to- 4- gether with Mr. Webber, who was to accompany me as interpreter, to be ready to fet out the next day. It proved, however, too flormy, as did Wed. 5. alfo the 6th, for beginning a journey through fo Thurf. 6. wild and defolate a country ; but, on the 7th, Friday 7. the weather appearing more favourable, we fet out early in the morning in the fhip's boats, with a view to reach the entrance of the Awatfka at high water, on account of the fhoals with which the mouth of that river abounds : here the country boats were to meet us, and carry 11s up the ftream. Captain Gore was now added to our party, and we were attended by Meffrs. Port and Fe- dofitfeh, with two coffacks, and were provided, by our conductors, with warm furred clothing ; a precaution which we foon found very neceffary, as it began to fnow brifkly juft after we fet out. At eight o'clock, being flopped by fhoal water, about a mile from the mouth of the river, fome fmall canoes, belong- took up us and our ing to the Kamtfchadale baggage, S9§ A VOYAGE TO 1779. May. baggage, and carried us over a fpit of fand»' which is thrown up by the rapidity of the river, and which, they told us, was continually fhifting* When we had croffed this fhoal, the water again deepened; and here we found a commodious boat, built and fhaped like a Norway yawl, ready to convey us up the river, together with canoes for our baggage. The mouth of the Awatfka is about a quarter of a mile broad ; and as we advanced, it narrowed very gradually. After we had proceeded a few miles, we paffed feveral branches, which, we were told, emptied themfelves into other parts of the bay ; and that fome of thofe on the left hand, flowed into the Paratounca river. Its general direction from the bay, for the firft ten miles, is to the North, after which it turns to the Weftward : this bend excepted, it preferves, for the moft part, a ftraight courfe; and the country, through which it flows, to the diftance of near thirty miles from the fea, is low and flat, and fubject to frequent inundations. We were pufhed forward by fix men, with long poles, three at each end of the boat; two of whom were coffacks, the others Kamtfchadales; and advanced againft a ftrong ftream, at the rate, as well as I could judge, of about three miles an hour. Our Kamtfchadales bore this fevere labour, with great ftoutnefs, for ten hours | during which we flopped only once, and that for a fhort time, whilft they took fome little re- frefhment. As we had been told, at our firft fetting out in the morning, that we fhould eafily reach an Oftrog, called Karatchin, the fame night, we were much difappointed to find ourfelves, at fun-fet, fifteen miles from that place, This we attributed to the delay occafioned in paffing the fhoals we had met with, both at the entrance of the river, and in feveral other places, 1779- May. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 199 as we proceeded up it: for our boat being the firft that had paffed up the river, the guides were not acquainted with the fituation of the fluffing land-banks, and unfortunately the fnow not having yet begun to melt, the fliallownefs of the river was at its extreme. The fatigue our men had already undergone, and the difficulty of navigating the river, which would have been much increafed by the dark- nefs of the night, obliged us to give up all thoughts of continuing our journey that evening. Having therefore found a place tolerably fhel- tered, and cleared it of the fnow, we erected a fmall marquee, which we had brought with us; and, by the affiftance of a brifk fire, and fome good punch, paffed the night not very unplea- fantly. The only inconvenience we laboured under was, the being obliged to make the fire at fome diftance from us. For, although the ground was, to all appearance, dry enough before, yet when the fire was lighted, it foon thawed all the parts round it into an abfolute puddle. We admired much the alertnefs and expedition with which the Kamtfchadales erected our marquee, and cooked our provifions; but what was moft unexpected, we found they had brought with them their tea-kettles, confidering it as the greateft of hardfhips not to drink tea two or three times a day. We fet out as foon as it was light, in the Satur. 8. morning, and had not advanced far, before we were met by the Toion, or Chief of Karatchin, who had been apprized of our coming, and had provided canoes that were lighter, and better contrived for navigating the higher parts of the river. A commodious veffel, confifting of two canoes, lafhed clofe together with crofs fpars, lined with bear-fkins, and furnifhed with fur was alfo provided for us. We now went cloaks 1779- May. A VOYAGE TO went on very rapidly, the Toion's people being both flout and frefh, and remarkable for their expertnefs in this bufinefs. At ten we got to the Oftrog, the feat of his command, where we were received at the water-fide by the Kamtfchadale men and women, and fome Ruffian fervants belonging to Fedofitfch, who were em- 'ployed in making canoes. They were all dreffed put in their beft clothes. Thofe of the women were pretty and gay, confining of a full loofe robe, of white nankeen, gathered clofe round the neck, and faftened with a collar of coloured filk. Over this they wore a fhort jacket, without fleeves, made of different colouied nankeens, and "petticoats of a flight Chinefe filk. Their fhifts, which had fleeves down to the wrifts, were alfo of filk; and coloured filk handkerchiefs were bound round their heads, concealing entirely the hair of the married women, whilftfthofe who were unmarried, brought the handkerchief under the hair, and fuffered it to flow loofe behind. This oftrog was pleafantly fituated by the fide of the river ; and confifled of three log-houfes j three jourts, or houfes made under ground ; and nineteen balagans, or fummer habitations. We were conducted to the dwelling of the Toion, who was a plain decent man, born of a Ruffian woman, by a Kamtfchadale father. His houfe, like all the reft in this country, was divided into two apartments. A long narrow table, with a bench round it, was all the furniture we faw in the outer; and the houfehold fluff of the inner, which was the kitchen, was pot lefs fimple and fcanty. But the kind attention of our hoft, and the hearty welcome we received, more than compenfated for the poverty of his lodgings. His wife proved an excellent cook ; and ferved ns with fifh and game of different forts, and various THE PACIFIC OCEAN. rious kinds of heath-berries, that had been kept fince the laft year. Whilft we were at dinner in this miferable hut, the guefts of a people, with whofe exiftence we had before been fcarce acquainted, and at the extremity of the habitable globe, a folitary, half-worn pewter fpoon, whofe fhape was familiar to us, attracted our ^tentiqnt,$. and, on examination, we found it ftamped ph the back with the word London. I cannot pafs over this circumftance in filence, out of gratitude for the many pleafant thoughts, the anxious hopes, and tender remembrances it excited in us. Thofe, who have experienced the effects that long abfence and extreme diftance from their native country produce on the mind, will readily conceive the pleafure fuch trifling incidents can give. To the philofopher and the politician they may perhaps fuggeil reflections of a different nature. We were now to quit the river, and perform the next part of our journey on fledges; but the thaw had been too powerful in the day-time, to allow us to fet out, till the cold of the evening had again made the furface of the fnow hard and firm. This gave us an opportunity of walking about the village, which was the only place we had yet feen free from fnow fmce we landed in this country. It ftood upon a well-wooded flat, of about a mile and a half in circumference. The leaves were juft budding, and the verdure of the whole fcene was ftrongiy contrafted with the fides of the furrounding hills, which were ftill covered with fnow. As the foil appeared to me very capable of producing all the common forts of garden vegetables, I was greatly furprifed not to find the fmalleft fpot any where cultivated. If to this we add, that none of the inhabitants were poffeffed of cattle of any fort, nothing can be well conceived rngre wretched than their fituation muft be during the winter months. They i were 201 1779. May. A VOYAGE TO were at this time removing from their jourts into their balagans, which afforded us an opportunity of examining both thefe forts of habitations ; and they will be hereafter more particularly defcribed. The people invited us into their houfes Wtfh great good humour; a general air of cheerfulnefs and content was every where vifible, to which the approaching change of feafon might probably not a little contribute. On our return to the Toion's, we found fupper prepared for us, which differed in nothing from our former repaft ; and concluded with our treating the Toion and his wife with fome of the fpirits, we had brought with us,,;made into punch. Cap|| tain Gore, who had great generofity on all occafions, having afterward made them fome valuable prefents, they retired to the kitchen, leaving lis in poffeffion of the outward room, where, fpreading our bear-fkins on the benches, we were glad to get a little repofe, having fettled with our conductors to rename our journey, as foon as the ground fhould be judged fit for travelling. About nine o'clock, the fame evening, we were awakened by the mejajichjjlyjiowlings of the dogs, which continued all the time our baggage was lafhing upon the fledges ; but, as foon as they were yoked, and we were all prepared to fet out, this changed into a light cheerful yelping, which intirely ceafed the inftant they marched off. But, before we fet out, the Reader may expect to be made more particularly acquainted with this curious mode of travelling. I brought over with me one of thefe fledges, which is now in the poffeffion of Sir Afhton Lever. The body is about four feet and a half long, and a foot wide, made in the form of a crefcent, of light tough wood, ftrongly bound together with wicker-work; which in thofe belonging to the better fort of people is elegantly ftained of a red and blue colour, and the feat covered with bear- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. bear-fkins, or other furs. It is fupported by four legs, about two feet high, which reft on two long flat pieces of wood, five or fix inches broad, extending a foot at each end beyond the body of the fledge. Thefe are turned up before in the manner of a fkate, and fhod with the bone of fome fea-animal. The fore-part of the carriage is ornamented with thongs of leather and taffels of coloured cloth; and from the crofs bar, to which the harnefs is joined, are hung links of iron, or fmall bells, the jingling of which they conceive to be encouraging to the dogs. They are feldom ufed to carry more than one perfon at a time, who fits afide, refting his feet on the lower part of the fledge, and carrying his provifions and other neceffaries, wrapped up in a bundle, behind him. The dogs are ufually five in number, yoked two and two, with a leader. The reins not being faftened to the head of the dogs, but to the collar, have little power over them, and are therefore generally hung upon the fledge, whilft the driver depends entirely on their obedience to his voice for the direction of them. With this view, the leader is always trained up with a particular degree of care and attention ; fome of them rifing to a moft extraordinary value on account of their docility and fteadinefs ; in- fomuch, that for one of thefe, I am well affured, forty roubles (or ten pounds) was no unufual price. The driver is alfo provided with a crooked ilick, which anfwers the purpofe both of whip and reins | as by ftriking it into the fnow, he is enabled to moderate the fpeed of the dogs, or even to flop them entirely ;' and when they are lazy, or otherwife inattentive to his voice, he chaftifes them by throwing it at them. Upon thefe occafions, their dexterity in picking it up again is very remarkable, and forms the principal difficulty of their art. But it is indeed not furprifing, that 203 J 779- Mir. A VOYAGE T O that they fhould labour to be fkilful in a practice upon which their fafety fo materially depends. For they fay, that if the driver fhould happen to lofe his flick, the dogs will inftantly perceive it; and unlefs their leader be of the moft fober and refolute kind, they will immediately run a-head full fpeed, and never flop till they are quite fpent. But as that will not be the cafe foon, it generally happens, that either the carriage is overturned, and dafhed to pieces againft the trees, or they hurry down fome precipice, and all are buried in the fnow. The accounts that were given us of the fpeed of thefe dogs, and of their extraordinary patience of hunger and fatigue, were fcarcely credible, if they had not been fupported by the beft authority. We were indeed ourfelves witneffes of the great expedition with which the meffenger, who had been difpatched to Bolcheretfk with the news of our arrival, returned to the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, though the fnow was, at this time, exceedingly foft. But I was informed, by the Commander of Kamtfchatka, that this journey was generally performed in two days and a half; and that he had once received an exprefs from the latter place in twenty-three hours. The dogs are fed, during the winter, on the offals of dried and ftinking-fifh ; but are always deprived of this miferable food, a day before they fet out on a journey, and never fuffered to eat before they reach the end of it. We were alfo told, that it was not unufual for them to continue thus falling two entire days, in which time they would perform a journey of one hundred and twenty miles *. Thefe dogs * Extraordinary as this may appear, Krafchininikoff, whofe account of Kamtfchatka, from every thing that I faw, and had an opportunity of comparing it with, feerns to me to deierve entire credit ; and whofe authority / Jktdl, therefore, frequently have recourfe to ; relates in- ftarices THE PACIFIC OCEAN. dogs are, in fhape, fomewhat like the Pomeranian breed, but confiderably larger. As we did not choofe to trull to our own fkill, we had each of us a man to drive and guide the fledge, which, from the ftate the roads were now in, proved a very laborious bufinefs. For, as the thaw had advanced very confiderably in the vallies, through which our road lay, we were under the neceffity of keeping along the fides of the hills ; and this obliged our guides, who were provided with fnow-fhoes for that purpofe, to fupport the fledges, on the lower fide, with their fhoulders, for feveral miles together. I had a very good-humoured Coffack to attend me, who was, however, fo very unfkilful in his bufinefs, that we were overturned almoft every minute, to the great entertainment of the reft of the company. Our party confifled, in all, of ten fledges. That in which Captain Gore was carried, was made of two lafhed together, and abundantly provided with furs and bear-fkins; it had ten dogs, yoked four abreaft ; as had alfo fome of thofe that were heavy laden with baggage. When we had proceeded about four miles, it began to rain ; which, added to the darknefs of the night, threw us all into confufion. It was at laft agreed, that we fhould remain, where we were, till day-light ; and accordingly we came to anchor in the fnow (for I cannot better exprefs the manner in which the fledges were fe- ftances of this kind, that are much more furprifing. ' Travelling parties," fays he, " are often overtaken ' with dreadful ftorms of fnow, on the approach of ' which, they drive, •with the utmo/i precipitation, into the ' neareft nuood, and there are obliged to ftay, till the ' tempeft, which frequently lafts fix or feven days, is ' over ; the dogs remaining all this while quiet and in- v. offenfive j except that, fometimes, when preft by " hunger, they will devour their reins, and the other " leathern parts of the harnefs." Hiftory and Defcription of Kamtfchatka, by Krafchininikoff. cured). 205 1779- Mav. is h 206 A VOYAGE TO >779- May. cured), and wrapping ourfelves up in our fur#y waited patiently for the morning. About three Sunday o. °'cl°ck we were called on to fet out, our guides being apprehenfive, that if we waited longer^ we might be flopped by the thaw, and neither be able to proceed, nor to return. After encountering many difficulties, which were principally occafioned by the bad condition of the road, at two in the afternoon, we got fafe to an oftrog, called Natcheekin, fituated on the fide of a fmall ftream, whSlh falls into the Bolchoireka, a little way below the town. The diftance between Karatchin and Natcheekin is thirty-eight werfts (or twenty-five iaailes) ; and had the hard frofl continued, we fhould not»'*by their account, have been more than four hours in performing it; but the fnow was fo foft, that the dogs, almoft at everyjfftep, funk up to their bellies; and I was indeed much furprifed at their being at all able to overcome the difficulties of fo fatiguing a journey. Natcheekin is a very inconfiderable oftrog, having only one log-houfe, the refidence of the Toion ; five halagans, and one jourt. We were received here with the fame formalities, and in the fame hofpitable manner, as at Karatchin; and in the afternoon we went to ififit a remarkable hot fpring, which is near this village. ;;iWe faw, at fome diftance, the fleam rifing from it, as from a boiling caldron ; and as we approached, perceived sthe air had a ftrong fulphureous fmell. The main fpring forms a bafon of about three feet in diameter ; befides which, there are a number of leffer fprings, of the fame degree of heat, in the adjacent ground ; fo that the whole fpot, to the extent of near an acre, was fo hot, that we could not ftand two minutes in the fame place. The water flowing from thefe fprings is collected in a fmall bathing pond, and afterward forms a little rivulet; which, at the diftance of about an hundred and fifty yards, falls into THE PACIFIC OCEAN. into the river. The bath, they told us, had wrought great cures in feveral diforders£;fuch 207 1779. May. as rheumatifms, fwelled and contracted joints and fcorbutic ulcers. In the bathing-place the thermometer ftood at ioo°, or blood heat; but in the fpring, after being immerfed two minutes, it was i° above boiling fpirits. The thermometer in the air, at this time, was 340; in the river 400 -, and in the Town's houfe 640. The ground where thefe fprings break out, is on a gentle afcent; behind which there is a green hill of a moderate fize. I am forry I was not fufficiently fkilled in botany to examine the plants, which feemed to thrive here with great luxuriance ; the wild garlic, indeed, forced itfelf on our notice, and was at this time fpringing up very vigoroufly. The next morning, we embarked on the Bol- Monday choireka in canoes; and, having the ftream with io- us, expected to be at our journey's end the day following. The town of Bolcheretfk is about eighty miles from Natcheekin -, and we were informed, that, in the fummer feafon, when the river has been full and rapid, from the melting of fnow on the mountains, the canoes had often gone down in a fingle day ; but that, in its prefent ftate, we fhould probably be much longer, as the ice had broken up only three days before we arrived; and that ours would be the firft boat that had attempted to pafs. This intelligence proved but too true. We found ourfelves greatly impeded by the (hallows -, and though the ftream in many places, ran with great rapidity, yet every half mile, we had ripplings and fhoals, over which we were obliged to haul the boats. The country, on each fide, was very romantic, but Unvaried; the river running between mountains of the moft craggy and barren afpect, where there was nothing to diverfify the fcene; but now and then the fight of a bear, and A VOYAGE TO and the flights of wild-fowl. So unintereffing a paffage leaves me nothing farther to fay, than that tfah, and the following night, we flept on the banks of the river, under our marquee ; and fuffered very much from the feverity of the weather, and the fnow which ftill remained on the ground. At day-light on the 12th, we found we had got clear of the mountains, and were entering a low extenfive plain, covered with fhrubby trees. About nine in the forenoon, we arrived at an oftrog, called Opatchin, which is computed to be fifty miles from Natcheekin, and is nearly of the fame fize as Karatchin-.; •• We found here a ferjeant with four Ruffian foldiers, who had been two days waiting for our arrival; and who immediately difpat<f$ted a light boat to Bolcheretfk, with intelligence of our approach. We were now put into the trammels of formality ; a canoe, furnifhed with fkins and furs, and equipped in a magnificent manner, was prepared for our reception, in which we were accommodated much at our eafe, but to the exclusion of the reft of our fellow-travellers. It was with much regret we found ourfelves obliged to feparate from our IJra companion Monfieur Port, whom we had obferved to grow every day more fhy and diftant, as we drew nearer the end of our journey. Indeed, he had himfelf to|t us, before we fet out, that we paid him a refpect he had no title W-f but as we found him a very modeft and '4llfereet man, we had infifted on his living with ns during the whole of our journey. The remainder of our paffage was performed with great facility and expedition, the river growing more rapid, as we defcended, and lefs obftructed by fhoals. As we apjjfoached the capital, we were forry to obferve, from, an appearance of much ftir and buftle, that we were to be received in form. Decent clothes had been, for fome time, a fcarce commodity THE PACIFIC OCEAN. commodity amongft us ; and our travelling dreffes were made up of a burlefque mixture of European, Indian, and Kamtfchatdale fafhions. We therefore thought it would be too ridiculous to make a parade in this trim through the metropolis of Kamtfchatka ; and as we faw a crowd collected on the banks of the river, and were told the Commander would be at the water-fide to receive us, we flopped fhort- at a foldier's houfe, about a quarter of a mile from the town, from whence we fent Port with a meffage to his Excellency, acquainting him, that the moment we had put off our travelling dreffes, we would pay our refpects to him at bis own houfe ; and to beg he would not think of waiting to conduct us. Finding, however, that he perfifted in his intentions of paying us this compliment, we loft no farther time in attiring ourfelves, but made all the hafle in our power to join him at the entrance of the town. I obferved my companions to be as awkard as I felt myfelf, in making our firft falu- tations ; bowing and fcraping being marks of good-breeding that we had now, for two years and a half, been totally unaccuftomed to. The manner in which we were received by the Commander, was the moft engaging that could be conceived, and increafed my mortification, at finding, that he had almoft entirely forgot the French language ; fo that the fatisfaction of converging with him was wholly confined to Mr. Webber, who fpoke the German, his native tongue. In company with Major Behm, was Captain Shmaleff, the fecond in command, and another officer, with the whole body of the merchants of the place. They conducted us to the Commander's houfe, where we were received by his lady with great civility, and found tea and other refrefhments prepared for us. After the firft P compliments 2d9 1779- May. Vol. Ur no 1779- May. A VOYAGE TO compliments were over, Mr. Webber was de^ fired to acquaint the Major with the object of our journey, with our want of naval ftores, flour, and frefh provifions, and other neceffarfes for the fhips crews ; and at the fame time to affure hinij, that we were fenfible, from what we had already feen of the condition of the country about Awatfka Bay, we could not expect much affiftance from him in that quarter ; that the impof- fibility of fending heavy ftores acrofs the peninfula, during the prefent feafon of the year, was but too apparent, from the difficulties we had met with in our journey ; and that, long before any material change could take place, we fhould be under the neeeffity of proceeding on our voyage. We were here interrupted by the Commander, who obferved, that we did not yet know what they were capable of doing ; that, at leaft, it was not his bufinefs to think of the difficulties of fupplying our wants, but only to learn what were the articles we ftood in need of, and the longeft time we could allow him, for procuring them. After expref- fmg our fenfe of his obliging difpofition, we gave him a lift of the naval ftores, the number of cattle, and the quantity of flour, we were directed to purchale, and told him, that we purpofed recommencing our voyage about the 5th of June. Our converfation afterward turned upon different fubjects ; and it will naturally be fuppofed, that our inquiries were principally directed to the obtaining fome information refpecling our own country. Having now been abfent three years, we had flattered ourfelves with the certainty of receiving intelligence from Major Behm, which could not fail of being interefting ; and I cannot exprefs the disappointment we felt, on finding, that he had no news to communicate of a much THE PACIFIC OCEAN. much later date than that of cmr departure from England. About feven o'clock, the Commander, conceiving we might be fatigued with our journey, and defirous of taking fome repofe, begged he might conduct us to our lodgings. It was in vain that we protefted againft a compliment which we had certainly no title to expect, but that of being ftrangers -, a circumftance which feemed, in the opinion of this generous Livonian, to counterbalance every other confideration. In our way, we paffed by two guard-houfes, where the men were turned out under arms, in compliment to Captain Gore ; and were afterward brought to a very neat and decent houfe, which the Major gave us to underftand Was to be our refidence, during our flay. Two fentiriels were polled at the door ; and in a houfe adjoining, there was a ferjeant's guard. Having fhewn us into our apartments, the Major took his leave, with a promife to fee us the next day; and we were left to find out, at our leifure, all the coriveriieri- cies that he had moft amply provided for us. A foldier, called a puiprbperfckack, whofe rank is between that of a ferjeant and corporal, along with our fellow-traveller Port, were appointed to be our male domeftics; befides whom, there was a houfe-keeper and a cook, wlio had orders to obey Port's directions in dreffing us a fupper, according to our own mode of cookery. We received many civil meffages, in the courfe of the evening, from the principal people of the town, purporting, that they would riot add to our fatigues, by paying their refpects to lis at that time, but would Wait on us in the morning. Such well-fupported politenefs arid attention in a country fo defolate and uncultivated, formed a contraft exceedingly favourable to its inhabitants ; and to finifh the piece as it began, at P 2 fua- 1779- May. Fhur. 13 A VOYAGE TO fun-fet the ferjeant came with the report of his guard to Captain Gore. Early in the morning, we received the compliments of the Commander, of Captain Shma- leff, and of the principal inhabitants of the town, who all honoured us with vifits foon after. The two firft having fent for Port, after we were gone to reft, and inquired of him, what articles we feemed to be moft in want of on board the fhips ; we found them prepared to infift on our fharing with the garrifon under their command, in what little flock of provifions they had remaining. At the fame time they lamented, that we had arrived at a feafon of the year, when there was alpfays the greateft fcarcity of every thing amongft them; the floops not being yet arrived, with their annual fupply, from Okotfk. We agreed to accept the liberality of thefe hofpitable ftrangers, with the beft grace we could; but on condition, that we might be made acquainted with the price of the articles we were to be fupplied with ; and that Captain Clerke fhould give bills to the amount, upon the Victualling Office in London. This the Major pofitively refufed ; and whenever it was afterward urged, flopped us fhort, by telling us, he was certain, that he could not oblige his fVtu*- trefs more, than in giving every affiftance in his power to her good friends and allies the Engiifh ; and that it would be a particular fatisfaction to her, to hear, that in fo remote a part of the world, her dominions had afforded any relief?fj$| fhips engaged in fuch fervices as ours; that he could not therefore act fo contrary to the character of his Emprefs, as to accept of any bills ; but that, to accommodate the matter, he would take a bare atteftation of the particulars, with which we might be furnifhed ; and that this he fhould tranfmit to his Court, as a certificate of having THE PACIFIC OCEAN. having performed his duty. I fhall leave (he continued) to the two Courts, all farther acknowledgments ; but cannot confent to accept any thing of the kind alluded to. When this matter was adjufted, he began to enquire about our private wants; faying, he fhould confider himfelf as ill ufed, if we had any dealings with the merchants, or applied to any other perfon except himfelf. In return for fuch fingular generality, we had little to bellow but our admiration and our thanks. Fortunately, however, Captain Clerke had fent by me a fet of prints and maps, belonging to the laft voyage of Captain Cook, which he defired me to prefent in his name to the Commander ; who being an enthufiait in every thing relating to difcoveries, received it v/ith a fatisfaction which fhewed, that, though a trifle, nothing could have been more acceptable. Captain Clerke had likewife entrufted me with a difcre- tionary power of fhewing him a chart of the difcoveries made in the prefent voyage ; and as I judged, that a perfon in his fituation, and of his turn of mind, would be exceedingly gratified by a communication of this fort, though, out of delicacy, he had forborn to afk more than a few general queftions on the fubject, I made no fcruple to repofe in him a confidence, of which his whole conduct fhewed him to be deferving. I had the pleafure to find, that he felt this compliment as I hoped he would, and was much ftruck at feeing, in one view, the whole of that coaft, as well on the fide of Afia as on that of America, of which his countrymen had been fo many years employed in acquiring a partial and imperfect knowledge *. Excepting 1779. May. Ill \m * On this occafion, Major Behm permitted us to exa- ine all the maps and charts that were in his pclTaffion. Thofe f'4 »779- May. A VOYAGE TO Excepting this mark of confidence, and the fet of prints'I have already mentioned, we had brought nothing with us that was in the leaft worth his acceptance ; for it fcarce deferves noticing, that I prevailed on his fon, a young boy, to accept of a filver watch I happened to have about me; and I made his little daughter very happy with two pair of ear-rings, of French pafte. Befides thefe trifles, I left with Captain "Shmaleff the thermometer I had ufed on my journey ; and he promifed me, to keep an exact regifter of the temperature of the air for one year, and to tranfmit it to Mr. Muller, with whom he had the pleafure of heing acquainted. We dined this day at the Commander's, who, ftudious on ever|t; occafion to gratify our curiofity, had, befides a number of difhes dreffed in our own way, prepared a great variety of others, after the Ruffian and Kamtfchadale manner. The afternoon was employed in taking a view of the town, and the adjacent country. Bolcheretfk is fituated in a low fwampy plain, that extends to the fea of Okotfk, being about forty miles long, and of a confiderable breadth. It lies on the North fide of the Bolchoi-reka (or great river), between the mouth of the Gottfofka and the Biftraia, which here empty themfelves Thoferelating to the peninfula of the Tfchu tiki, were made in conformity to the information collected by Plenidier,, between the years 1760 and 1770. As the charts of Rle- niiher were afterward made ufe of, according tp Mr. Coxe, in the compilation of the General Map of Ruffia, publiihed by the Academy in 1776, it may be neceffary to obferve, that we found them exceedingly erroneous ; and that the compilers of the General Map feem tp have been led into fome miftakes on his authority. Thofe, in which the iflands on the coaft of America were iaicl flown, we found to contain nothing new, and to be much lefs accurate than thofe we faw at Oonalafhka. into THE PACIFIC OCEAN. into this river; and the peninfula, on which it Hands, has been feparated from the continent by a large canal, the work of the prefent Com- anander; which has not only added much to its ftrength as a fortrefs, but has made it much le{s liable, than it was before, to inundations. Below the town, the river is from fix to eight feet deep, and about a quarter of a mile broad. It empties itfelf into the fea of Okotfk, at the diftance of twenty-two miles ; where according to Krafheninicoff, it is capable of admitting veffels of a confiderable fize. There is no corn, of any fpecies, cultivated in this part of the country; and Major Behm informed me, that his was the only garden that had yet been planted. The ground was, for the moft part, covered with fnow; that which was free from it appeared €ull of fmall hillocks, of a black turfy nature. I faw about twenty or thirty cows; and the Major had fix flout horfes. Thefe, and their dogs, are the only tame animals they poffefs ^ the neceffity they are under, in the prefent ftate of the country, of keeping great numbers-of the latter, making it impoffible to bring up any cattle, that are not in fize and ftrength a match €or them. For, during the fummer feafon, their ,-dogs are entirely let loofe, and left to provide for themfelves.; which makes them fo exceedingly ravenous, that they will fometimes even attack the bullocks. The houfes in Bolcheretfk fafhion, being built of logs, That of the Commander is much larger than the reft, confuting of three rooms of a- confiderable fize, neatly papered, and which might have been reckoned handfome, if the talc with which the windows were covered,, had not given (them a poor and difagreeable appearance. The town ai-5 :i779- May. are all of one and thatched. V O Y A G TO town confifts of feveral rows of low buildings, each confuting of five or fix dwellings, connected together, with a long common paffage running the length of them ; on one fide of which is the kitchen and ftore-houfe ; and on the other the dwelling apartments. Befides thefe, are barracks for the Ruffian foldiers and Cof- facks; a well looking church; and a courtroom ; and at the end of the town a great number of Balagans, belonging to the Kamtfchadales. The inhabitants, taken all together, amount to between five and fix hundred. In the evening, the Major gave a handfome entertainment -, to which the principal people of the town, of both fexes, were invited. The next morning we applied privately to the merchant Fedofitfch, to purchafe fome tobacco for *he failors, who had now been upward of a twelvemonth without this favourite commodity. However, this, like all our other tranfaclions of the fame kind, came immediately to the Major's knowledge; and we were foon after fur- prifed to find, in our houfe, four bags of tobacco, weighing upward of a hundred pounds each, which he begged might be prefented, in the name of himfelf, and the garrifon under his command, to our failors. At the fame time, they had fent us, twenty loaves of fine fugar, and as many pounds of tea, being articles they underftood we were in great want of, which they begged to be indulged in prefenting to the offi- . cers. Along with thefe, Madame Behm had alfo fent a prefent for Captain Clerke, confifting of frefti butter, honey, figs, rice, and fome other little things of the fame kind, attended with many wifhes, that, in his infirm ftate of health, they might be of fervice to him. It was in vain we tried to oppofe this profufion of bounty, jyhich I was really anxious to reilrain, being convinced, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. convinced, that they were giving away, not a fhare, but almoft the whole flock of the garrifon. The conftant anfwer the Major returned us, on thofe occafions, was, that we had fuffered a great deal, and that we muft needs be in diftrefs. Indeed, the length of time we had been out, fince we touched at any known port, appeared to them fo very incredible, that it required the teftimony of our maps, and other corroborating circumftances, to gain their belief. Amongft the latter was a very curious fact which Major Behm related to us this morning, and which, he faid, but for our arrival, he fhould have been totally at a lofs to account for. It is well known, that the Tfchutfki are the only people of the North of Afia, who have maintained their independence, and refilled all the attempts that have been made by the Ruffians to reduce them. The laft expedition againft them was undertaken in the year 1750, and terminated, after various fuccefs, in the retreat of the Ruffian forces, and the lofs of the commanding officer. Since that time, the Ruffians had removed their frontier fortrefs from the Anadyr to the Ingiga, a river that empties itfelf into the Northern extremity of the fea of Okotfk, and gives its name to a gulf, fituated to the Weft of that of Penfhinfk. From this fort, Major Behm had received difpatches the day of our arrival at Bolcheretfk, containing intelligence, that a tribe, or party, of the Tfchutfki, had arrived at that place with propofitions of friendfhip, and a voluntary offer of tribute ; that on inquiring into the caufe of this unexpected alteration in their fentiments, they had informed his people, that toward the latter end of the laft fummer they had been vifited by two very large Ruffian boats ; that they had been treated by the people who were in them, with the greateft kindnefs, 217 1779. May. iui up *779- May. A VOYAGE T © kindnefs, and had entered into a league of friend-" fhip and amity with them; and that, relying on thts friendly difpofition, they were now come to the Ruffian fort, in order to fettle a treaty, on fuch terms as might be acceptable to both nations. This extraordinary hiftory had occa- fioned much fpeculation, both at Ingiginfk and Bolcheretfk; and, had we not furnifhed them with a key to it, muft have remained perfectly unintelligible. We felt no fmall fatisfaction in paving, though accidentally, fhewn the Ruffians, in this inftance, the only true way of collecting tribute, and extending their dominions; and in the hopes that the good underftanding, which this event" hath given rife to, may refcue a brave people from the future invafions of fuch powerful neighbours. We dined, this day, with Captain Shmalefiy and in the afternoon, in order to vary our amufe- ments, he treated us with an exhibition of the •Ruffian and Kamtfchadale dancing. No defcription can convey an adequate idea of this rude and uncouth entertainment. The figure of the Ruffian dance was much like thofe of our hornpipes, and was danced either fingle, or by two or four perfons at a time. Their fleps were fhort and quick, with the feet fcarce raifed from the ground ; the arms were fixed clofe to the fides jj the body being all the while kept upright and -immoveable, excepting when the parties paffed •each other, at which time the hand was raifed with a quick and awkward motion. But if the Ruffian dance was at the fame time both unmeaning and ridiculous, the Kamtfchadale joined to the latter quality the moft whimfical idea that ever centered into any people's heads. It is intended to reprefent the awkard and clumfy geftures of the bear., which thefe people have frequent THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 219 quent opportunities of obferving in a great vari- 1779. ety of fituations. It will fcarcely be expected May. that I fhould give a minute defcription of all the v- • | ftrange poftures which were exhibited on thefe occafions; and I fhall therefoi§ only mention, ;tt&t the body was always bowed, and the knees bent, whilft the arms were ufed in imitating the tricks and attitudes of that animal. As our journey to Bolcheretfk had taken up more time tb#i we expected, and we were told that our return might prove ftill more difficult and tedious, ,we were under the neceffity of acquainting the commander, this evening, with our intention of fetting out the next day. It was not without the utmoft regret we thought of leaving our new acquaintance ; and were therefore moft agreeably furprifed, when the Major told uS, that if we could flay one day longer, he would accompany us. He had, he faid, made up his difpatches, and refigned the command of Kamtfchatka to his fucceffor Captain Shmaleff, and had prepared every thing for his departure to Okotfk, which was to take place in a few days; but that he fhould feel great pleafure in putting off his journey a little longer, and returning with us to Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, that he might himfelf be a witnefs of every thing being done for us, that it was in their power %o do. In return for the few trifles I had given to the children of Major Behm, I was, next morning, Saturday the 15th, prefented, by his little boy, with a 15. ' moft magnificent Kamtfchadale drefs, which fhall be defcribed in its proper place. It was of the kind worn by the principal Toions of the country, on occafions of great ceremony; and, as I was afterward told, by Fedofitfch, could not have been purchafed for one hundred and twenty roubles. At the fame time { had a prefent 13 h wmamms zzo »77< Ma) A VOYAGE TO fent from his daughter, of a handfome fable muff. We afterward dined with the Commander, who, in^der to let us fee as much of the manners of the inhabitants, and of the cuftoms of the country, as our time would permit, invited the whole of the better fort of people in the village to his houfe this evening. All the women appeared very fplendidly dreffed, after the Kamtfchadale fafhion. The wives of Captain Shmaleff, and the other officers of the garrifon, were prettily dreffed, half in the Siberian, and half in the European mode; and Madame Behm, in order to make the ftronger contrail, had unpacked part of her baggage, and put on a rich European drefs. I was much ftruck with the richnefs and variety of the filks which the women wore, and the Angularity of their habits. The whole was like fome enchanted fcene in the midft of the wildefl and moft dreary country in the world. Our entertainment again confifled of dancing and finging. The next morning being fixed for our departure, we retired early to our lodgings, where the firft things we faw were three travelling dreffes, made after the fafhion of the country, which the Major had provided for A who^game himfelf to our houfe foon afte% to fee all our things packed up, and properly taken care of. Indeed, what with his liberal g^fents, and the kindnefs of Captain Shmaleff, and many other individuals, who all begged to throw in their mite, together with the ample flock of provifions he had fent us for our journey, we had amaffed no inconfiderable load of baggage. Early in the morning, every thing being ready for our departure, we were invited to call on Madame Behm, in oufc^way to 'Ipe boats, and THE PACIFIC OCEAN. and take our leave of her. Impreffed, as our minds were, with fentiments of the warmeft gratitude, by the attentive, benevolent, and generous treatment we had met with at Bolcheretfk, they were greatly heightened, by the affecting fcene which prefented itfelf to us, on leaving our lodgings. All the foldiers and Cof- facks, belonging to the garrifon, were drawn up on one hand, and the male inhabitants of the town, dreffed out in their beft clothes, on the other ; and, as foon as we came out of the houfe, the whole body of the people joined in a melancholy fong, which, the Major told us, it was ufual, in that country, to fing on taking leave of their friends. In this manner we marched down to the Commander's houfe, preceded by the drums and mufic of the garrifon, where we were received by Madame Behm, attended by the ladies, who were dreffed in long filk cloaks, lined with very valuable furs _ of different colours, which made a moft magnificent appearance. After partaking of fome re- frefhment, that was prepared for us, we went down to the water-fide, accompanied by the ladies, who now joined the fong with the reft of the inhabitants j and as foon as we had taken leave of Madame Behm, and affured her of the grateful fenfe we fhould ever retain of the hofpi- tality of Bolcheretfk, we found ourfelves too much affected, not to haften into the boats with all the expedition we could. When we put off, the whole company gave us three cheers, which we returned from the boat 5 and, as we were doubling a point, where for the laft time we faw our friendly entertainers, they took their fare\ in another che< -We found the ftream, on our return, fo exceedingly rapid that notwithftanding the Coffacks and Kamtfchadales ufed their utmoil exertions, we «779- May- sai A VOYAGE TO J779- we did not reach the firft village, Opatchin, till HA&5& ,, the evening of the 17th, which was at the rate Mon! 17; of abouiv twenty miles a day. We got to Wed. 19. Natcheekin on the 19th; and, on the 20th, we Thu. 20. croffed the plain to Karatchin. We found the road much better than when we had paffed it before, there having been a fmart froft on the Frid. 21. night of the joth. On the 21ft, we proceeded down the Awatfka River; and, before it was dark, got over the fhoals whfeh lie at the entrance of the bay. During the whole courfe of our journey, we were much pleafed wi^f^ft^' great good-will with which the Toions, and their Kamtfchadales, afforded us their affi$pfi<»ge, at the different oflrogs through which we paffed j and I could not but obferve the pleafure that appeared in their countenances, on feeing the Major, and their ftrong expreffions of forroWj on hearing he was fo foon going ^to leave them. We had difpatched a meffenger to Captain Clerke, from Bolcheretfk, with an account of our reception, and of the Major's intention of returning with us; -at the fame time, apprizing him of the day he might probably expect to fee us. We were therefore very well pleafed to obferve, as we approached the harbour, all the boats of the two fhips coming toward us, the men clean, and the officers as well dreffed as the fcarcity of our clothing would permit. The Major was much ftruck at the robuft and healthy appearance of the boats crews, and ftill more at feeing moft of them without any other covering than a fhirt and trowfers, although at the very moment it actually fnowed. As Major Behm had expreffed his intentions of vifiting the fhips before he landed, as foon as we arrived off the town, I defired to receive his THE PACIFIC OCEAMi a*£ mm May. his commands % when remarking, that from the account we had given of the very bad ftate of Capt$n Gierke's health, it might be imprudent to difturb him at fo late an hour (it being now* paft nine o'clock), he thought it, he faid, moft advifeable to remain that night on fhorer. Aw*-• cordirtgly, after attending him to therferjeant's houfe, I took my leave, for the prefent, and went on board to acquaint Captain Clerke with my proceedings at Bolcheretfk. It was with the utmoft concern I found, that in the fortnight we had been abfent, this excellent officer was much altered for the worfe, inftead of reaping that advantage we flattered ourfelves he might, from the repofe of the harbour, and the milk and vegetable diet with which he was fupplied. As foon as I had difpatched this bufinefs, I returned to the Major, and the next morning Saturday conducted him to the fhips; where, on his ar- %%, rival, he was faluted with thirteen guns, and received with every other mark of diftinction, that it was in our power to pay him. He was attended by the Commander of one of the Ruffian galliots, the mafter of a floop that lay in the harb'dUr, two merchants from Bolcheretfk, and the prieft of the neighbouring village of Pa- ratounca, for whom he appeared to entertain the higheft refpect, and whom I fhall hereafter have occafion to mention, on account of his great kindnefs to Captain Clerke. After vifiting the Captain, and taking a view of both the fhips, he returned to dinner on board the Refolution ; and, in the afternoon the various curiofities we had collected in the courfe of our voyage, were fheWn him, and a complete affortment of every article prefented to him by Captain Clerke. On this occafion I muft not pafs over an inftance of great generofity and gratitude !'«l r— A VOYAGE TO gratitude in the failors of both fhips; whoV when they were told of the handfome prefent of tobacco that was made them by the Major, defired, entirely of their own accord, that their grog might be flopped, and their allowance of fpirits prefented, on their part, to the garrifon of Bolcheretfk, as they faid they had reafon to conclude that brandy was fcarce in the country* and would be very acceptable to them, fince the foldiers on fhore had offered four roubles a bottle for it. We, who knew how mueii the failors always felt, whenever their allowance of grog was flopped, which was generally done in warm weather, that they might have it in a greater proportion in cold, and that this offer would deprive them of it during the inclement feafon we had to expect in our next expedition to the North, could not but admire fo extraordinary a faerifice ; and that they might not fuffer by it, Captain Clerke, and the reft of the officers fubftituted in the room of the very fmall quantity the Major could be prevailed on to accept, the fame quantity of rum. This, with a dozen or two of Cape wine, for Madame Behm, and fuch other little prefents as were in our power to beftow, were accepted in the moft obliging manner. The next morning the tobacco was divided between the crews of the two fhips, three pounds being allotted to every man that fhewed or fmoked tobacco, and one pound to thofe that did not. I have before mentioned, that Major Behm had refigned the command of Kamtfchatka, and intended to fet out in a fhort time for Peterfburg ; and he now offered to charge himfelf with any difpatches we might truft to his care. This was an opportunity not to be neglected; and accordingly Captain Gierke acquainted THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 235 1779- May. quainted him, that he would take the liberty offending by him fome papers relating to our voyage, to be delivered to our Ambaffador at the Ruffian court. Our firft intentions were to fend only a fmall journal of our proceedings; but afterward Captain Clerke being perfuaded that the whole account of our difcoveries might fafely be truiled to a perfon who had given fuch ftriking. proofs both of his public and private v'njlues j and confidering that we had a very hazardous part of the voyage ftill to undertake, determined to fend, by him, the whole of the journal of our late Commander, with that part of his own, which completed the period from Captain Cook's death, till our arrival at Kamt* fchatka; -together with a chart of ail our difcoveries. Mr. Bayly, and mgfelf, thought it alfo proper to fend a general account of our proceedings to the boapr^of longitude; by which precautions,.^ any misfortune had aft^ward befallen us, the Admiralty would have been in pof- fion of a complete hiftory of the principal facts of our voyage. It was alfo determined, that a fmaller pacquet fhould be fent by an exprefs from Okotfk, which, the Major faid, if he was fortunate in his paffage to that port, would reach Peterfburg by December; and that he himfelf fhould be there in February or March. During the three following days, the Major was entertained alternately in the two fhips, in the beft manner we were able. On the 2,5th, Tuefday he took|jis leave, and was faluted with thirteen 25> guns; and the failors, at their own defire, gave him three cheers. The next morning, Mr. Wednef, Webber, and myfelf, attended him a few miles up the Awatfka River, where we met the Ruffian prieft, chis wife and children, who were waiting to take the laft farewel of their commander. Vol. III. Q^ It 131 m m nl 1 i6„ r— 226 A V O Y G E TO' j779- It was hard to fay, whether the good prieft iJ:v and his family, or ourfelves, were moft affected on taking our leave of Major Behm. Short as our acquaintance had been, his noble and difin- terefted conduct had infpired us with the higheft refpect and efteem for him; and we could not part with a perfon to whom we were under fuch obligations, and whom we had little profpedt of ever feeing again, without feeling the moft tender concern. The intrinfic value of the private prefents we received from him, exelufive of the ftores which might be carried to a public account, muft have amounted, according to the current price of articles in that country, to upward of two hundred pounds. But this genero- fity, extraordinary as it muft appear in itfelf, was exceeded by the delicacy with which all his favours were conferred, and the artful manner in which he endeavoured to prevent our feeling the weight of obligations, which he knew we had no means of requiting. If we go a ftep further, and confider him as fupporting a public character, and maintaining the honour of a great Sovereign, we fhall find a ftill higher fubject of admiration, in the juft and enlarged fentiments by which he was actuated. ** The fervice in *' which you are employed," he would often fay, *4 is for the general advantage of mankind, and "' therefore gives you a right, not merely to the offices of humanity, but to the privileges of citizens, in whatever country you may be *' thrownfc' I am fure I am acting agreeably *' to the wifh.es of my Miftrefs, in affording you " all the relief in our power; and 1 cannot for- " get either her character, or my own honour, " fo much, as to barter for the performance of **. a duty." At other times, he would tell us, that he was particularly defirous of fetting a good example to the Kamtfchadales, who, he laid, were a The pacific Ocean. Were but juft emerging from a ftate of barba- rifm ; that they looked up to the Ruffians as their patterns in every thing; and that he had hopes they might, in future, look upon it, as a duty incumbent upon them t|» affift ftrangers to the utmoil of their power, and believe, that fuch was the^univerfal praclice of civilized nations. To all this muft be added, that, after having relieved, to the utmoft of his abilities, all our prefent diftreffes, he fhewed himfelf not much lefs mindful of our future wants ; and, as he fuppofed it more than probable we fhould not difcover the paffage we were in fearch of, and therefor** fhould return to Kamtfchatka in the fall of the year, he made Captain Clerke give him a lift of what cordage and flour we fhould want, and promifed they fhould be fent from Okotfk, and wait our arrival. For the fame purpofe, he gave Captain Clerke a paper, enjoining all the fubjects of the Emprefs, whom we might happen to meet, to give us every affiftance in their power, 227 1779* May. Q_2 CHAP. 223 A VOYAGET HAP. III. Continuation of Tranfaclions in the Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul.— Abundance of Fijh.— Death of a Seaman belonging to the Refolution.—■ The Ruffian Hofpital put under the Care of the Ships Surgeons.—Supply of Flour and Cattle.—- Celebration of the King's Birth-day.—Difficulties in failing out of the Bay.—Eruption of a Volcano.'—Steer to the Northward.-—Cheepoonfkoi N'Ojfc—Errors of the Ruffian Charts.—Kamt- fchatfkoi Nofs.-—Olutorfkoi Nofs.—- Tfchukotfkoi Nofs.— Ifland of St. Laurence.— View, from the fame Point, of the Coafts of AJia and America, and the IffMis of St. Diomede.<—-Various Attempts to get to the North, between the two Continents. —j Obftrutled by impenetrable Ice.—' Seahorfes and white Bears killed. — Captain Gierke's Determination, and future DeJigns. 1779. May. ' A VIN G concluded the laft chapter with an account of our return from Bolcheretfk, accompanied by Major Behm, the Commander of Kamtfchatka, and of his departure | I fhall proceed to relate the tranfaclions that paffed in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Friday 7. Paul during our abfence. On the 7th of May, foon after we had left the bay, a large piece of ice drove acrofs the cut-water of the Refolution, and brought home the fmall bower anchor. This obliged them to weigh the other anchor, and moor again. The carpenters, who were employed in flopping the leak, were obliged to take the pacific ocean. 229 takeoff a great part of the iheathingfrom the J779° bows, and found many of the trunnelsfo very loofe .J^ and rotten, as to be eafily drawn out with the fingers. On the 1 ith, they had heavy gales from the Tuefday North Eaft, which obliged both the fhips to »»• • ftrike yards and topmafts ; but in the afternoon the weather being more moderate, and the ice having drifted away as far as the mouth of the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, they warped clofe to the fhore for the greater convenience of watering and wooding, and again moored as before; the town bearing North half Weft, half a mile diftant, and the mouth of the bay, fhut in by the Southernmoft point of Rako- wina harbour, South. The next day a party was fent oh fhore to Wednef. cut wood, but made little progrefs on account 12. of the fnow, which ftill covered the ground. A convenient fpot was cleared away abreaft of the fhips,where there was a fine run of water, and a tent being erected for the cooper, the empty cafks were landed, and the fail-makers fent on fhore. On the 15th, the beach being clear of ice, Saturday the people were fent to haul the feine, anif *5« caught an abundant fupply of fine flat fifh for both the fhips companies. Indeed, from this time, during the whole of our flay in the harbour, we were abfolutely overpowered with the quantities of fifh which came in from every quarter. The Toions, both of this town, and of Paratounca, a village in the neighbourhood, had received orders from Major Behm to employ all the Kamtfchadales in our fervice ; fo that we frequently could not take into the fhips the prefents that were fent ,us„ They confuted, in general, of flat fifh, cod, trout, and Thefe laft, which were in their full perfection, 111 herring ■MHMM 1779. May. junday 16. A VOYAGE TO perfection, and of a delicious flavour, were exceedingly abundant in this bay. The Difco- very's people furrounded, at one time, fo great a quantity^ in their feine, that they were obliged to throw a vafl number out, left the net fhould be broken to pieces ; and the cargo they landed was afterward fo plentiful, that, befides a fufficient flore for immediate ufe, they filled as many cafks as they conld fpare for falting ; and, after fending to the Refolution a fufficient quantity for the fame purpofe, they left feveral bufhels behind on the beach. The fnow now began to difappear very rapidly, and abundance of wild garlic, celery? and njsttle tops were gathered for the ufe of the crews; which being boiled v/ith wheat and portr able foup, made them a wholefome and comfortable breakfajt; and with this they were flip- plied every morning. The birch trees were alfo tapped, and the fweet juice, which they yielded in great quantities, was conftantly mixed with the men's allowance of brandy. The next day, a fmall bullock, which had been procured for the fhips companies by the ferjeant, was killed ; and weighed two hundred and feventy-two pounds. It was ferved out to both crews for their Sunday's dinner, being the firft piece of frefh beef they had tailed fince our departure from the Cape of Good Hope in December 1776, a period of near two years and a half. This evening died John Macintofh, the carpenter's mate, after having laboured under a dyfentery ever fince our departure from the Sandwich Iflands : he was a very hard working quiet man, and much regretted by his mefs- mates. He was the fourth perfon we loft by iicknefs during the voyage ; but the firft who. jppuld be faid, from his age, and the conftitu- tipnaf THE PACIFIC OCEAN. tional habits of his body, to have had, on our fetting out, an equal chance with the reft of his comrades : Watman, we fuppofed to be about fixty years of age; and Roberts, and Mr„ Anderfon, from the decay, which had evidently commenced before we left England, could not, in all probability, under any circumftances, have lived a greater length of time than they did. I have already mentioned, that Captain Gierke's health continued daily to decline, not- withftanding the falutary change of diet, which the country of Kamtfchatka afforded him. The prieft of Paratounca, as foon as he heard of the infirm ftate he was in, fupphW him/'every day with bread, milk, frefh butter, and fowls, though his houfe was fixteen miles from the harbour where we lay. On our firft arrival, we found the Ruffian hof- pital, which is nearihe town of St. Peter and St. Paul, in a condition truly deplorable. All the foldiers were, more or lefs, affected by the fcurvy, and a great many in the laft ftage of that diforder. The reft of the Ruffian inhabitants were alfo in the fame condition -, and we particularly remarked, rthat our friendi the fer- jeant, by making too free with the fpiife we gave him, had brought on himfelf, in the courfe of a few days, fome of the moft alarming fymptoms of that malady. In this lamentable ftate, Captain Clerke put them all under the care of our furgeons, and ordered a fupply of four krout, and malt, for wort, to be furnifhed for their ufe. It was aftonifhing to obferve the alteration in the figures of almoft every perfon we met on our return from Bolcheretfk ; and I was informed, by our furgeons, that they attributed their fpeedy recovery principally to the effects of the fweet wort. 23* ■1779- May. 9 &y? A V O M A G E TO fA t rr *779- On the i ft of June we got on board two hun- * .-"l^lji <hed and fifty poods, or nine thoufand pound Tuefd. i. weight of rye flour, with which we were fup- plied from the ftores of St. Peter and St. Paul's 1 and the Difcovery had a proportional quantity. The men were immediately put on full allowance of bread, which they had not been indulged in fince our leaving the Cape of Good Hope.- The fame day, our watering was completed, having got on board fixty-five tons. Friday 4. On the 4th, we had frefh breezes, and hard rain, which difappointed us in our defign of drefiing the fhips, and obliged us to content ourfelves with firing twenty-one guns, in honour of the day, and celebrating it in other refpects in the beft manner we were able. Port, who was left with us on account of his fkill in languages, behaved himfelf with fo much modefty and discretion, that, as foon as his mafter was gone, he was no longer Jean Port, but Monfieur Port, the interpreter ; and partook, as well as the ferjeant (in his capacity of commander of 1 ^ the place), of the entertainment of the day. 1 Our worthy friend, the prieft of Paratounca, having ^T^'got intelligence of its being our king's birth-day, gave alfo a fumptuous feaft; at which fome of our gentlemen were prefent, who feemed highly delighted with their entertainment, which confifled of abundance of good eating and drinking, together with dancing. Sunday 6. On the 6th, twenty head of cattle were fent ns by the Commander's orders from the Verchnei oftrog, which is fituated on the river Kamtfchatka, at the diftance of near a flftindred miles from this place, in a direct line. They were of a moderate fize; and, notwithftanding the Kamtfchadales had been feventeen days in driving them down to the harbour, arrived in good condition. The four following days were employee! v f ft y THE PACIFIC OCEAN. -employed in making ready for fea ; and, on the '779- Sith, at two in the morning, we began to un- vjjl^j moor; but, before we had got one anchor up, Friday. it blew fo ftrong a gale from the North Eaft, n- that we kept fall, and moored again ; conjecture ing, from the pofition of the entrance of the bay, that the current of wind would fet up the channel. Accordingly, the pinnace being fent out to examine the paffage, returned with an account, that the wind blew ftrong from the South Eaft, with a-great fwell, fetting into the bay, which would have made any attempt to get to fea very hazardous. Our friend Port now took his leave of us, and carried with him the box with ouj journals, which was to go by the Major, and the pacquet that was to be fent exprefs. On the 12th, the weather Saturday, being moderate, we began to unmoor again; I2- but, after breaking the meffenger, and reeving a running purchafe with a fix inch hawfer, which alfo broke three times, we were obliged, at laft, to heave a ftrain at low water, and wait for the flowing of the tide to raife the anchor. This project fucceeded; but not without damaging the cable in the wake of the hawfe. At three, we weighed the beft bower, and fet fail; and, at eight, having little wind, and the tide making againft us,we dropped anchor again in ten fathoms, off the mouth of Rakowina harbour I the oftrog bearing North by Eaft half Eaft, two miles and a half diftant; the needle rocks on the Eaft fide ©f the paffage South South Eaft half Eaft, and the high rock, on the Weft fide of the paffage, South. On the 1 3th, at fBhf in the morning, we got Sunday under way with the ebb tide ; and, there being 13. a dead calm, the boats were fent ahead to tow the fhips. At ten, the wind fpringing up from the South Eaft by South, and the tide having turned, we were again obliged to drop anchor in feven fathoms; the Three Needle Rocks bearing South •3* 1779- June. Monday ifl "nefd.ay IK. A VOYAGE TO South half Eaft; and the oftrog North half Eaft, at the diftance of one mile from the neareft land. After dinner, I went, with Captain Gore$ on fhore on the Eaft fide of the paffage, where we faw, in two different places, the remains of extenfive villages ; and, on the fide of the hill, an old ruined parapet, with four or five embrafures. It commanded the paffage up the mouth of the bay; and, in Beering's time, as he himfelf mentions, had guns mounted on it. Near this place, were the ruins of fome caverns under ground, which we fuppofed to have been magazines. At fix in the afternoon we weighed with the ebb tide, and turned to windward ; but, at eight, a thick fog arifing, we were obliged to bring to, as our foundings could not afford us a fufficient direction for fleering between feveral funk rocks, which lie on each fide of the paffage we had to make. In the morning of the 14th, the fog clearing away, we weighed as foon as the tide began to ebb ; and, having little wind,, fent the boats ahead to tow ; but, at ten o'clock, both the wind and tide fet in fo ftrong from the fea, that we were again obliged to drop anchor in thirteen fathoms, the high rock bearing Weft one quarter South, diftant three quarters of a mile. We remained faft for the reft of the day, the wind blowing frefli into the mouth of the bay; and, toward evening, the weather had a very unufual appearance, being exceedingly dark and cloudy, with an unfettled fhifting wind. Before day-light, on the 15th, we were fur- prifed with a rumbling noife, refembling diftant hollow thunder ; and, when the day broke, we found the decks and fides of the fhips covered "<*ith a fine duft like emery, near an inch thick. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 235 The air, at the fame time, continued loaded 1779. and darkened with this fubftance ; and, toward June, the volcano mountain, fituated to the North of " ■~1 - the harbour, it was fo thick and black, that we could not diftinguifh the body of the hill. About twelve o'clock, and, during the afternoon, the explofions became louder, and were followed by fhowers of cinders, which were, in general, about the fize of peas; though many were picked up from the deck larger than a hazel nut. Along with the cinders fell feveral fmall ftones, which had undergone no change from the action of fire. In the evening we had dreadful thunder and lightning, which, with the darknefs of the atmofphere, and the fulphureous fmell of the air, produced altogether 1 moft awful and terrifying effect. We were, at this time, about eight leagues from the foot of the mountain. On the 16th, at day-light, we again weighed Wednef, anchor, and ftood out of the bay; but the ebb- 16. tide fetting acrofs the paffage upon the Eaftern fhore, and the wind falling, we were driven very near the Three Needle Rocks, which lie on that fide of the entrance, and obliged to hoift out the boats, in order to tow the fhips clear of them. At noon we were two leagues from the land, and had foundings with forty-three fathoms of line, over a bottom of fmall ftones, of the fame kind with thofe which fell on our decks, after the eruption of the volcano; but whether they had been left there by the laft, or by fome former eruptions, we were not able to determine. The afpectjof the country was now very different from what it had been on our firft arrival. The fnow, excepting what remained on the tops of fome very high mountains, had difappeared ; and the fides of the hills, which, in many parts, were Hal 336 A VOYAGE Friday J.&W Kin day were well wooded, were covered with ; ful verdure. As it was Captain Gierke's intention to keep as much in fight of the coaft of Kamtfchatka as the weather would permit,, in order to determine its pofition, we continued fleering to the North North Eaft, with light and variable winds, till the 18th. The volcano was ftill feen- throwing, up immenfe volumes of fmoke; and we had m> foundings with one hundred and fifty fathoms,, at the diftance of four leagues from the fhore. On the 18th, the wind frefhening from the South, the weather became fo thick and hazys as to make it imprudent to attempt any longer to keep in fight of the land. But that we might- be ready to refume our furvey, whenever the- fogs fhould difperfe, we ran on in the direction of the coaft, as laid down in the" Ruffian charts^, and fired fignal guns for the Difcovery to fleer the fame courfe. At eleven o'clock, juft before we loft fight of the land, Cheepoonfkoi Nofs, for called by the Ruffians (a defcription of which,. as well as the coaft between it and Awatfka Bay,, will be given hereafter), bore North North Eaft, diftant feven or eight leagues. On the 20th, at three in the morning, the weather having cleared up, we ftood in toward; the land | and in an hour's time law it ahead,, extending from Norin'Weft to North North Eafty diftant about five leagues. The North part we took to be Kronotfkoi Nofs ; its pofltion in the Ruffian charts agreeing nearly with our reckoning as, to its latitude, which was 540 42'; but,, in longitude, we differed from thfehi confiderably, they placing it i° 48' Eaft of Awatfka ;, whereas, our reckoning, corrected by the timekeepers and lunar obfervations, makes it 30 5-4' Ealiward of that place, or i6z° if Eaft from Greenwich. The land about this cape is very THE P A C HI I C OCEAN. *3 very high, and the inland mountains were ftill 1779. covered with fnow. The fhore breaks off in June- fteep cliffs, and the coaft is without any appear- ~" ance of inlets or bays. We had not been long gratified with this fight^f the land, when the wind frefhened from the South Weft, and brought on a thick fog, which obliged us to ftand off to the Noj$b Eaft by Eaft. The weather clearing up again at noon, we fteered toward the land, expecting to fall in with Kamtfchatfkoi Nofs, and had fight of it at day-break of Monday the 2ifi aI- The Southerly wind w$s foon after fucceeded. by a light breeze blowing off the land, which prevented our approaching the coaft fufficiently near to defcribe its afpect, or afcertain, with accuracy, its direction. At noon our latitude, by obfervation, was gtf 52'> and longitude (deduced from a comparifon of many lunar obfervations, taken near this time, with the timekeepers), 16 30 go' ; the extremities of the land I bearing North Weft by Weft, three quarters Weft, and North by Weft three quarters Weft, the neareft part about eight leagues diftant. At nine o'clock in the evening, having approached about two leagues nearer the coaft, we found it formed a projecting peninfula, extending about twefve leagues in a direction nearly North and South. It is level, and of a moderate height, the Southern extremity terminating in a low Hoping point; that to the North forming a fteep bluff head ; and between them, about four leagues to the Southward of the Northern Cape, there is a confiderable break in the land. On each fide of this break the land is quite low; beyond the opening- rifes a remarkable faddle- like hill; and a chain of high mountains, covered with fnow, ranges along the back of the whole peninfula. As a3S *779- June. A VOYAGE TO As the coaft were at a grea ii is in an even direction, we where to place Kamtfchatfkoi Nofs, which, according to Muller, forms a projecting point about the middle of the peninfula, and which certainly does not exift ; but I have fmce found, that, m the general map publifhed. by the academy of Petersburg in 1776", that name is given to the Southern cape. This was found, by feveral accurate obfervations, to be in latitude 56° 3', longitude r 63° 20' I the difference in longitude, from the Ruffian charts, being the fame as at Kronotfkoi Nofs. The variation of the compafs at this time was io° Eaft. To the Southward of this peninfula the great river Kamtfchatka falls into the fea. As the feafon was too far advanced to admit of our making an accurate furvey of the coaft of Kamtfchatka, it was Captain Clerke's plan, in our run to Beering's Straits, to determine principally the pofitions of the projecting points of the coaft. We, therefore, directed our courfe acrofs an extenfive bay, laid down between Kamtfchatfkoi Nofs and Olutorfkoi Nofs, intending to make the latter; which according to the Ruffian geographers, terminates the peninfula called Kamtfchatka, and becomes the Southern boundary of the Koriaki country. On the z 2d, we paffed a dead whale, which emitted a horrid flench, perceivable at upward of a league's diftance; it '#as covered with a great number of fea-birds, that were feafting on it. Thurfday On the 24th,, the wind, which had varied z*f round the compafs the three preceding days, fixed at South Weft, and brought clear weather, with which we continued our courfe to the North Eaft by North, acrofs the bay, without any land in fight. This Tuefday 2,2. 1779- June. /;, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. This day we faw a great number of gulls and were witneffes to the difguiling mode of' feeding of the arctic gull, which has procured it the name of the parafite, and which, if th# reader is not already acquainted with it, he wilt find in the note below *. On the 25th, at one o'clock in the afternoon, Friday being in latitude 590 12', longitude 1680 35', *S- the wind frefhening from the fame quarter, a thick fog fucceeded ; and this unfortunately juft at the time we expected to fee Olutorfkoi Nofs, which, if Muller places it right in latitude §9° 30', and in longitude 167° 36', could only have then been twelve leagues from us ; at which diftance, land of a moderate height might eafily have been feen. But if the fame error in longitude prevails here, which we have hitherto invariably found, it would have been much nearer us, even before the fog came on ; and as we faw no appearance of land at that time, it muft either have been very low, or there muft be fome miftake of latitude in Muiler's account. We tried foundings, but had no ground with one hundred and fixty fathoms of line. The weather ftill thickening, and preventing a nearer approach to the land, at five we fteered Eaft by North, which is fomewhat more Eafterljt' than the Ruffian charts lay down the trending of the coaft from Olutorfkoi Nofs. The next Saturday day,?^we had a frefh gale from the South Weft, z6. which lafted till the 27th at noon, when the fogs clearing away, we ftood to the Northward, in order to make the land. The latitude at noon, M * This bird which is fomewhat larger than the common gull, purfues the latter kind whenever it meets them ; the gull, after flying for fome time, with loud fcreams, and evident marks of great terror, drops its dung, which its purfuer immediately darts at, and catches before it falls into the fea. by t—' A VOYAGE TO 1779. June. \».i by obfervation, was 50° 49', longitude 175^ 43",; Notwithftanding we faw fhags in the forenoons which are fuppofed never to go far from land, yet there was no appearance of it this day | but on the 28th, at fix in the morning, we got fight of it to the North Weft. The coaft fhews itfelf in hills of a moderate height; but inland, others are feen to rife confiderably. We could obferve no wood, and the fnow lying upon them in patches, gave the whole a very barren appearance. At nine, we were about ten miles from the fhore^ the Southern extremity bearing Weft by South, fix leagues diftant, beyond which the coaft appeared to trend to the Weftward. This point being in latitude 6i° 48', longitude 174? 48', lies, according to the Ruffian charts, near the mouth of the river Opuka. At the fame time, the Northern- extreme bore North by Weft ; between which and a hill bearing North Weft by Weft a quarter Weft, and at this diftance appearing to us like an ifland, the coaft feemed to bend to the Weftward, and form a deep bay. About eight miles from land, we perceived ourfelves in a ftrong rippling ; and being appre- henfive of foul ground, we bore away to the North Eaft, along the fhore; notwithftanding, on heaving'"<lhe lead, we found regular foundings of twenty-four fathoms, over a gravelly bottom ; from whence we concluded, that this appearance was&Occafioned by a tide, at that time running to the Southward. At noon, the extremes of the land bearing Weft South Weft three-quarters Weft, and North No'rth Eaft three-quarters Eaft, diftant from the neareft fhore four leagues, we were abreaft of the low land, which we now perceived to join the two points, where we had before expected to find a deep bay- The coaft bends a little to the Weftward, and THE PACIFIC OCEAN. and has a fmall inlet, which may probably be the mouth of fome trifling ftream. Our latitude* by obfervation, was? 6i° 56'$^ and longitude 1750 43', and the variation of the compafs 1 ya 30' Eaft. We continued, during the afternoon, to run along the," fhore, at the diftance of four or five leagues, with a moderate Wefterly breeze, carrying regular foundings from twenty-eight to tttfty-fix fathoms. The coaft prefented the fame barren afpect as to the Southward; the hills rifing confiderably inland, but to what height, the clouds on their tops put it out of our power to determine. At eight in the evening, land was thought to have been feen to the Eaft by Northf on which we fteered to the Southward of Eaft ;^hut it turned out to be only a fog bank. At midnight, the extreme point bearing North Eaft a quarter Eaft, we fuppofed it to be Saint Thadeus's Nofs ; to the Southward of which, the land trends to the WeftvJlfrd, and forms a deep bight, wherein, according to the Ruffian charts, lies the river Katirka. Onfthe 29th, the Weather was unfettled and Tuef. 29. variable, with the wind from the NSfMEaft. At noon of the 30th, our latitude, by obferva- -wecj. 3o» tion, was 6i° 48', and longitude 1800 o'; at which time Saint Thadeus's Nofs bore North North Weft, twenty-three leagues diftant, and beyond it we obferved the coaft flretching almoft directly North. The moft Eafterly point of the Nofs is in latitude 6z° 50', and longitude i79°o', being 30 ± more to the Eaft, than what the Ruffians make it. The land about it muft be of a confiderable height from its being feen at fo great a diftance. During the two laft days, we faw numbers of whales, large feals, and fea- horfes ; alfo gulls, fea-parrots, and albatroffes. Vol. III. R We 13 h I **z-. A VOYAGE TO 1779- We took the advantage of a little calm weather to try for fifh, and caught abundance of fine cod. The depth of water from fixty-five to feventy-five fathoms. jul„ On the i ft of July at noon, Mr. Bligh having Fhurf. i. moored a fmall keg with the deep-fea lead, in feventy-five fathoms, found the fhip made a courfe North by Eaft, half a mile an hour. This he attributed to the effect of a long Southerly fwell, and not to that of any current. The wind frefhening from the South Eaft toward evening, we fhaped our courfe to ^ie North Eaft by Eaft, for the point called in Beering's chart, Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, which we had obferved on the 4th of September laft year, at the fame time that we faw, to the South Eaft, the ifland of Saint Laurence. This Gjjipe, and Saint Thadeus's Nofs, form the North Eaft and South Weft extremities of the large and deep Gulph of Anadir, into the bottom of which the river of that name empties itfelf, dividing, as it paffes, the country of the Koriacs from that of Tfchutfki. iaturd.j. On the 3d at noon, the latitude, by obferva- tion, was 63° 33', and the longitude i86°45'; half an hour after which we got fight of the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, bearing North half Weft, thirteen or fourteen leagues diftant, and at five in the afternoon faw the ifland of Saint Laurence, bearing Eaft three-quarters North ; and another ifland a little to the Eaftward of it, which %ve fuppofed to be between Saint Laurence and Anderfon's Ifland, about fix leagues Eaft South Eaft of the former. As we had no certain ac- <gmint of this ift&pd, Captain Clerke was defirous of a nearer profpe^t, and immediately hauled the wind toward it; but, unfortunately, we were notjajak to weaiper the ifland of Saint Laurence, and THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 243 and were therefore under the neceffity of bearing up again, and paffing them all to the leeward. We had a better opportunity^of fettling the longitude of the ifland Saint Laurence, when we lalf faw it, than now. But feeing it at that time but once, and to the Southward, we could only determine its latitude fo far as we could judgC'of diftances; whereas now the no^ft-ob-- fervations enabled us to afcertain it correctly, which is 6^ 47'. Its longitude was found to be 188° 15', as before. This ifland, if its boundaries Wfere at this time within our view, is about three leagues in circuit. The North part mly': be feen at the diftance of ten or twelve leagues; but as it falls in low land to the South Eaft, the extent of which we could not fee, fome of us conjectured, that it might probably be joined to the land to the Eaftward of it; this, however, the hazinefs of the weather prevented our afcer- taining. Thefe iflands, as well as-J/the land about'-jhe Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, were covered with fnow, and prefented us with a moft dreary picture. At midnight, Saint Laurence bore South South Eaft, five or fix miles diftant; and our depth of water was eighteen fathoms. We were accompanied by various kinds of fea fowl, and faw feveral fmall crefted hawks. The weather ilill continuing to thicken, we loft all fight of land till the 5th, when it appeared MondL || both to the Norlh Eaft and North Weft. Our latitude, by account, was, at this time, 650 24', longitude 189° 14'. As the iflands of Saint Diomede, which lie between the two continents in Beering's ftrait, were determined bv us laft year to be in latitude 65° 48', we could not reconcile the land to the North Eaft, with the fitu-*- ation of thofe iflands. We therefore ftood to^ ward the land till three in the afternoon, when R 2 w£- .244 1779- July. / Tuef. 6. A VOYAGE TO we were within four miles of it, and finding it to be two iflands, were pretty well fatisfied of their being the fame ; but the weather ftill continuing hazy, to make fure of our fituation, we* ftood over to the coaft of Afia, till feven in the evening ; at which time we were within two or three leagues of the Eaft Cape of that continent. ^iPffeis Cape is a high round head of land, extending four or five miles from North to South, forming a peninfula, and connected with the continent by a narrow neck of low land. Its fhore is bold, and off its North part are three high, detached, fpiral rocks. At this time it was covered with fnow, and the beach furrounded with ice. We were now convinced, that we had been under the influence of a ftrong cvMrent, fetting to the North, that had caufed an error in our latitude at noon of twenty miles. In palling this ftrait the laft year, we had experienced the fame effect. Being at length fure of our pofition, we held on to the North by Eaft. At ten at night, the weather becoming clear, we had an opportunity of feeing, at the fame moment^ithe remarkable peaked hill, near Cape Prince of Wales, on the coaft of America, and the Eaft Cape of Afia, with the two connecting iflands of Saint Dio- mede between them. At noon on the 6th, the latitude, by account, was 670 North, and the longitude 191° 6' Eaft. Having already paffed a confiderable number of large mafles of,4ce, and obferved, that it fiili adhered in feveral places to the fhore on the continent of Afia, we were not much furprized to fall in, at three in the afternoon, with an extenfive body of it, ftretching away to the Weil- ward. This fight gave great difcouragement to our hopes of advancing much farther Northward ^fehjsyear, than we had done the preceding. Having THE PACIFIC OCEAN. :15 »779- July* I Having little wind in the afternoon, we hoifted out the boats in purfuit of the fea-horfes, which were in great numbers on the detached pieces of ice ; but they foon returned without fuccefs ; thefe animals being exceedingly fhy, and before they could come within gun-fhot, always making their retreat into the water. At feven in the evening, we hoifted in the boats, and the wind frefhening from the Southward, we flood on to the North Eaft, With a view of exploring the continent of America, between the latitudes of 68° and 6g°, which, owing to the foggy weather laft year, we had not bSen able to examine. In this attempt we were again in part difappointed. For, on the 7th, at fix in the morning, we were flopped by Wed. 7. a large field of ice, ftretching from North Weft to South Eaft; but foon after, the horizon becoming clear, we had fight of the coaft of America, at about ten leagues diftance, extending from North Eaft by Eaft to Eaft, and lying, by obfervatibn, between the 68° and 68° 20' of latitude. As the weather was clear, and the ice not high, we were enabled to fee over a great extent of it. The whole prefented a folid and compact furface, not in the final left degree thawed ; and appeared to us likewife to adhere to the land. The weather foon after changing to hazy, we faw no more of the land ; and there not remaining a poffibility of approaching nearer to it, we ftood to the North North Weft, keeping the ice clofe on board, and got round its Weftern extremity by noon, when we found it trending nearly North. Our latitude at this time was, by account 68° 22', and longitude 192° 34'. We continued our courfe to the North North Eaft, along the edge of the ice, during the remaining ©art of the day, paffing through many loofe pieces Thurf. 8 'rid. 9. A V O Y A G E T O pieces that had been broken off from the main body, and againft which, notwithftanding all our cautpn, the fhips were driven with great violence. At eight o'clock in the evening, we paffed fome drift wood ; and at midnight the wind fhifted to the North Weft ; the thermometer fell from 380 to 31% and we had continued fhowers of fnow and fleet. On the 8th, at five in the morning, the wind coming ftill more to the Northward, we could no longer keep on the fame tack, on account of the ice, but were ©piged to ftand to the Weftward. At this time our foundings had decreafed to nineteen fathoms, from which, on comparing it with our obfervations on the depth of water laft year, we concluded, that we were not at a greater diftance from the Anperican fliore than fix or feven leagues; but our view was confined within a much fhorter compafs, by a violent fall of fnow. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 6g° z\', longitude 1920 42'. At t]fo in the afternoon, the weather cleared up, and we found ourfelves clofe to an'expanfeof what appeared from the deck folid ice -, but, from the maft- head, it was difcovered to be compofed of huge compact bodies, clofe and united toward the outer edge, but in the interior parts, feveral pieces were feen floating in vacant fpaces of the water. It extended from North Eaft by the North to Weft South Weft. We bore away by the edge of it. to the Southward, that we might get into clearer water ; for the ftrong Northerly winds had drifted down fuch quantities of loofe pieces, that we had been, for fome time furrounded by them, and could not avoid ftriking againft feveral, notwithftanding we reefed the topfails, and ftood under an eafy fail. On the 9th, we had a frefh gale from the North North Weft, with heavy fhowers of fnow and THE PACIFIC OCEAN. and fleet. The thermometer was in the nighttime, 28% and at noon 300. We continued to fleer Weft South Weft, as before, keeping as near the large body of ice as we could, and had the misfortune to rub off fome of the fheathing from the bows againft the drift pieces, and to damage the cutwater. Indeed, the fhocks we could not avoid receiving, were frequeiitly fo fevere^: as to be attended with confiderable danger. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 690 12', and longitude 188° 5'. The variation, its the afternoon, was found to be 290 30' Eaft. As we had now failed near forty leagues to the Weftward, along the edge of the ice, without feeing any opening, or a clear fea to the Northward beyond it, and had therefore no profpect of advancing farther North for the prefent, Captain Clerke refolved to bear away to the South by Eaft (the only quarter that was clear), and to wait till the feafon was more advanced, before he made any farther efforts to penetrate through the ice. The intermediate time he propofed to fpend in examining the bay of St. Laurence, and the coaft to the Southward of it; as a harbour fo near, in cafe of future damage from the ice, would be very defirable. We alfo wifhed to pay another vifit to our Tfchutfki friends ; and, particularly, fince the accounts we had heard of them from the Commander of Kamfchatka. We therefore ftood on to the Southward, till the noon of the 10th, at which time we paffed P« great quantities of drift-ice, and the wind fell to a perfect calm. The latitude, by obfervation, was 68° 1'; longitude 188° 301. We paffed feveral whales in the forenoon, and in the afternoon, hoifted out the boats, and fent them in purfuit of the fea-horfes, which were in great numbers on the pieces of ice that furrounded -us. Our people were 1779- July- 348 •779- July. A VOYAGE TO were more fuccefsful than they had been before, returning with three large ones, and a young one; befides killing and wounding feveral others. The gentlemen who went on this party were witneffes of feverSt remarkable inftances of parental affection in thofe animals. On the approach of our boats toward the ice, they all took their cubs under their fins, and endeavoured to efcape with them into the fea. Several, whofe young were killed or wounded and left floating on tie furface, rofe again, and carried them down, fometimes juft as our people were going to take them up into the boat; and might be traced bearing them to a great diftance through the water, which waig coloured with their blood : we afterward obferved them bringing them, at times, above th<£furface, as if for air, and again diving under it with a dreadful bellowing. The female, in particular, whofe young had been deiiroyed, and taken into the boat, became fo enraged, that fhe attacked the cutter, and ftruck her two tufks through the bottom of it. At eight in the evening, a breeze fprung up to the Eaftward, with which we ftill continued our courfe to the Southward, and at twelve fell in with numerous large bodies of ice. We endeavoured to pufh through them fwith an eafy fail, for fear of damaging the fhip : and having got a little farther to the Southward, nothing was to be feen, but one compact field of ice, ftretching to'the South Weft, South Eaft, and North Eaft, as far as the eye could reach. This unexpected and formidable obftacle put an end to Captain Gierke's plan of vifiting the Tfchutfki ; for no fpace remained open but back again to the Northward. Accordingly, at three in feWR* t*> the morning of the nth, we tacked, and ftood to THE PACIfIC OCEAN. 249 1779. Jul/- Tuefd^j II. to that quarter. At noon, the latitude, by ob- fervation, was 670 49', and longitude 18 8° 47'. On the 12th, we had light winds, with thick Mon. hazy weather; and, on trying the current, we found it fet to the North Weft, at the rate of half a knot an hour. We continued to fleer Northward, with a moderate Southerly breeze, and fair weather, till the 13th, at ten in the forenoon, when we again found ourfelves clofe in with a folid field of ice, to which we could fee ho limits from the mail head. This, at once, dafhed all our hopes of penetrating farther; which had been confiderably raifed, by having now advanced near ten leagues through a fpace, which, on the 9th, we had found occupied by impenetrable ice. Our latitude, at this time, was 60° 37'; our pofition nearly in the mid channel between the two continents; and the field of ice extending from Eaft North Eaft, to Weft South Weft. As there did not remain the fmalleft profpedt of getting farther North in the part of the fea where we now were, Captain Clerke sefolved to make one more, and final attempt on the American coaft, for Baffin's Bay, fince we had been able to advance the fartheft on this fide laft year. Accordingly, we kept working, the remaining part of the day, to the windward, with a frefh Eafterly breeze. We faw feveral fulmars and arctic gulls, and paffed two trees, both appearing to have lain in the water a long time. The larger was about ten feet in length, and three in circumference, without either bark or branches, but with the roots remaining attached. On the 14th, we ftood on to the Eaftward, with thick and foggy weather, our courfe being nearly parallel to that we fteered the 8th and joth, but fix leagues more to the Northward. On 12, < '3 !!/« 1 F 1 Wednef. '4- 4$° Thur. 15, Friday j6, Saturday - >7- A VOYAGE TO On the 15th, the wind frefhened from the Weft- ■ ward, and having, in a great meafure, difperfed the fog, we immediately ftood to the Northward, j^it we might take a nearer view of the ice; and in an hour were clofe in with it, extendw# from North North Weft, to North Eaft. We found it to be compact and folid ; the outer parts were ragged, and of different Mights ; the inte- riour furface was even ; and, we judged, from eight to ten feet above the levef of the fea. The weather becoming moderate for the remaining part of the day, we directed our courfe according to the trending of the ice, which in many parts formed deep bays. In the morning of the 16th, the wind frefhened, and was attended with thick and frequent fhowers of fnow. At eight in the forenoon, it blew a ftrong gale from the Weft South Welt, and brought us under double-reefed top-fails I when, the weather clearing a little, we found ourfelves embayed ; the ice having taken a hidden turn to the South Eaft, and in one compact body unrounding us on all fides, except on the South quarter. We therefore hauled our wind to the Southward, being at this time in latitude 70° 8' North, and in twenty-fix fathoms water ; and, as we fuppofed, about twenty-five leagues from the coaft of America. The gale increafing, at four in the afternoon we clofe reefed the fore and main-top-fails, furled the mizen top-fail, and got the top-gallant-yards down upon deck. At eight, finding the depth of water had de- creafed to twenty-two fathoms, which we confidered as a proof of our near approach to the American coaft, we tacked and ftood to the North. We had blowing weather, accompanied with fnow, through the night ; but next morning, it became clear and moderate; and, at eight in the forenoon, we got the top-gallant yards THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 2$* *7?9- Juiy- yards acrofs, and made fail with the wind ftill at Weft South Weftt At noon, we were in latitude, by obfervation, 69° 55'^/longitude 1940 30'. Toward evening, the wind flackened, and at midnight it was a calm. On the 18th, at five in the morning, a light Sunday breeze fprung up from the Eaft North Eaft, with x8« which we continued our courfe to the North, in order to regain the ice as foon as poffible. We paffed fome fmall logs of drift-wood, and faw abundance of fea-parrots, and the fmall ice- birds, and likewife a number of whales. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 70° 28, and longitude 1940 54'; the depth of water twenty-three fathoms; the ice ftretched from North to Eaft North Eaft, and was diftant about three miles. At one in the afternoon, finding that we were clofe in with a firm united field of it, extending from Weft North Weft to Eaft, we tacked, and, the wind coming round to the Weftward, ftood on to the Eaftward, along its edge, till eleven at night. At that time a very thick fog coming on, and the water fhoaling to nineteen fathoms, we hauled our wind to the South. The variation obferved this day was 31° 20' Eaft. It is remarkable, that though we faw no fea horfes on the_body of the ice, yet they were in herds, and in greater numbers on the detached fragments, than we had ever obferved before. About nine in the evening, a white bear was feen fwimming clofe by the Difcovery; it afterward made to the ice, on which were alfo two others. On the 19th, at one in the morning, the wea- Mond«y ther clearing up, we again fteered to the North «9- Eaft, till two, when we were a (econd time fo completely embayed, that there was no opening left, but to the South ; to which quarter we accordingly diredled our courfe, returning through a remarkably is 1 VOYAGE TO S779. July. a remarkably fmooth water, and with very favourable weather, by the fame way we had come in. We were never able to penetrate farther North than at this time, when our latitude was 700 33'; and this was five leagues fhort of the point to which we advanced laft feafon. We held on to the South South Weft, with light winds fiom the North Weil, by the edge of the main ice, which lay on our left hand, anM:" ftretched between us and the continent of America. Our latitude, by obfervation at noon, was 700 11', our longitude 1960 15', and the depth of water fixteen fathoms. From this circumftance, we judged that the Icy Cape was now only at feven or eight leagues diftance; but, though the weather was in general clear, it was at the fame time hazy in the horizon ; fo that we could not expect to fee it. In the afternoon, we faw two white bears in the water, to which we immediately gave chace in the jolly boat, and had the good fortune to kill them both. The larger, which probably was the dam of the younger, being fhot firft, the other would not quit it, though it might eafily have efcaped on the ice, whilft the men were reloading, but remained fwimming about, till, after being fired upon feveral times, it was fhot dead. The dimenfions of the. larger were as follow : From the fnout to the end of the tail From the fnout to the fhoulder-bone - Height of the fhoulder - Circumference near the fore-legs Breadth of the fore-paw = » Feet. I nches. ■ 7 2 - 2 3 4 3 *.k':^ 10 10 lb. Weight of the four quarters -. - 436 Weight of the four quarters of the fmalleft 256 Oj THE PACIFIC OCEAN. *S3 1779. July. 20. On comparing the dirfienfions of this with Lord Mulgrave's white bear, they were found almoft exactly the fame, except in the circumference, where our's fell exceedingly fhort. Thefe animals afforded us a few excellent meals of frefh meat. The flelh had indeed a ftrong fiftjy tafte, but was, in every refpect, infinitely fuperior to that of the fea-horfe ; which, neverthelefs, our people were again perfuaded, without much difficulty, to prefer to their falted provifions. At fix in the morning of the 20th, a thick Tuefday fog coming on, we loft fight of the ice for two hours; but the weather clearing, wev faw the main body again to the South South Eaft, when we hauled our wind, which was Eafterly, to- wardjit, in the expectation of making the American coaft to the South Eaft, and which we effected at half paft ten. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 69° 3$, and longitude 1940 53', and the depth of water nineteen fathoms. The land extended from South by Eaft, to South South Weft half Weft, diftant eight or ten leagues, being the fame we had feen laft year; but it was now much more covered with fnow than at that time; and, to all appearance, the ice adhered to the fhore. We continued, in the afternoon, failing through a fea of lofe ice, and ftanding toward the land, as near as the wind, which was Eaft South Eaft, would admit. At eight, the wind leffening, there came on a thick fog ; and, on perceiving a rippling in the water, we tried the current, which we found to fet to the Eaft North Eaft, at the rate of a mile an hour, and therefore determined to fleer, during the night, before the wind, in order to ftem it, and to oppofe the large fragments of loofe ice, that were fetting us on toward the land. The depth of the water, at midnight, was twenty fathoms. At 254 *779- July- Wed. 21 A VOYAGE TO At eight in the morning of the 21 ft, the wind frefhening, and the fog clearing away, we faw the American coaft to the South Eaft, at the diftance of eight or ten leagues, and hauled in for it ; but were flopped again by the ice, and obliged to bear away to the Weftward, along the edge of it. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 690 34', and longitude 1930. and the depth of water twenty-four fathoms. Thus, a connected, folid field of ice, rendering every effort we could.make to a nearer approach to the land fruitlefs, and joining, as we judged, to it, we took a laft farewel of a North Eaft paffage to Old England. I fhall beg leave to give, in Captain Clerke's own words, the reafons of this his final determination, as well as of his future plans; and this the rather, as ft is the laft tranfaction his health permitted him to write down. " It is now impoflible to proceed the leaft far- ** ther to the Northward upon this coaft (Ame- *c rica) ; and it is equally as improbable that *' this amazing mafs of ice fhould be diffolved *' by the few remaining fummer-weeks which " will terminate this feafon ; but it will con- *' tinue, it is^to be believed, as it now is, an " infurmountable barrier to every attempt we ** can poffibly make. I, therefore, think it " the beft flep that can be taken, for the good ** of the fervice, to trace the fed over to the " Afiatic coaft, and to try if I can find any *' opening, that will admit me farther North ; * if not, to fee what more is to be done upon " that coaft -, where I hope, yet cannot much ** flatter myfelf, to meet with better fuccefs; " for the fea is now fo choaked with ice, that a paffa'gf tion." I fem totally out of the quef- C H A P. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. CHAP. IV. Fruitlefs Attempts to penetrate through the Ice to the North Weft.—Dangerous Situation of the Difcovery. — Sea-horfes killed.—Frefh Obftruc- tions from the Ice.—Report of Damages received by the Difcovery.—Captain Gierke's Determination to proceed to the Southward.—Joy cf the Ships Crews on that Occafion.—Pafs Serdze Ka- men.—Return through Beering's Straits-—Inquiry into the Extent of the North Eaft Coaft of Afia. •—Reafons for rejecling Muller's Map of the Promontory of the Tfchutfki.—Reafons for believing the Coaft does not reach a higher Latitude than 700 4- North.—General Obfervations on the Impracticability of a North Eaft, or North Weft Paffage from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean. —Comparative View of the Progrefs made in the. Tears 1778 and 1779.—Remarks on the Sea, and Sea-coafts, North of Beering's Straits.—Hiftory of the Voyage refumed.—Pafs the Ifland of St. Laurence.—The Ifland of Mednoi.—Death of Captain Clerke.—Short Account of his Services. *55 I Apt a in Clerke having determined, for the reafons afligned at the conclufion of the kit Chapter, to give up all farther attempts on i the coaft of America, and to make his laft efforts ia fearch of a paffage on the coaft of the oppofite continent, 1779. Ju|y- a«6 A VOYAGE TO '779- Wed. 21. continent, we continued, during the af|grnoon of the 21 ft of Ju ly, to fleer to the Weft North Weft9- through much loofe ice. At ten at night, dif- covering the main body of it through the fog, right ahead, and almoft clofe to us, and being unwilling to take a Southerly courfe, fo long as we could poflibly avoid it, we hauled our wind, which was Eafterly, and ftood to the Northward j but, in an hour after, the weather clearing up, and finding ourfelves furrounded by ^compact field of ice, on every fide, except to the South South Weft, we tacked, and ftood on in that direction, in order to get clear of it. Thur. 22. At noon of the 22d, our latitude, by obfervation, was 690 30', and longitude 1870 30'. In the afternoon, we again came up with the ice, which extended to the North Weft and South Weft, and obliged uskjto continue our courfe to the Southward, in order to weather it. It may be remarked, that fince the 8th of this month, we had twbge traverfed this fea, in lines nearly parallel with the run we had juft now- made ; that in the firft of thofe traverfes, we we were not able to penetrate fo far North, by eight or ten leagues, as in the fecond ; and that in the laft we had again found an united body of ice, generally about five leagues to the Southward of its pofition in the preceding run. As this proves that the large, compact fields of ice, which we faw were moveable, or diminifhing, at the fame time, it does not leave any well- founded expectation of advancing much farther in the moft favourable feafons. At feven in the evening, the weather being ha2y, and no ice in fight, we bore away to the Weftward ; but, at half paft eight the fog dif- j*erfing, we found ourfelves in the tfiltfl of loofe THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 2? 3/ loofe ice, and cloflfin with the rriafri body ; we '779- therefore ftood upon a Vvlnd, \Xfhreh was ftill _J"ly' Effter1y\ and Kept beating to windward 3b?iiflj§. fhe night, in hdlfes'" 6f weathering the loofe pieces, wfSch trre'r^Hhrrefs of the wind Kept driving down upon us in fuch"quantities, tlhirt'we were fn' malflfeft danger of being r^ocKa' up by IBem. In me m&rriing of the 23d, the clear water, Friday in'\jmich we continued to ffand to arid fro, did 23- not:exceed a rnrie and a half, and was everv inrfant leffening. At length, after ufing our utmbft endeavours to clear the loofe ice, we wefe driven to the neceffity of forcing a paffk'0 to the Southward, which at half paft feven, w£ accomplifhedi but not without fur^'ecTing the fhip to fome very fevere fhocks. The Difcover'^ was lefts fuccefsful. For, at eleven, When they had mm dot clear out, fhe became fo entanglea by feveral large pieces, that her way was flopped,' and immediately dropp%g bodily to leeward, fhe fell, brd^cFfide foremofl, on the rage of a confiderirole body of ice ; and having, at the rlhrfe time, an open fea to windward, the furf caufed her to ftrike' violently upon it. This mafs at length either fo far broke, or moved, as* to fet them at liberty to make another trial to efcape ; but, unfortunately, before the fHrp gathered way enough to be under command, fhe again fell to leeward on another fragment; and the fwell making it unfafe to lie to windward, and finding tSjcf chance of getting clear, they pufhed into a fmall opening, fueled their fails, and made faff with ieWhooks. In this dangerovrs fituation we faw them at noon, about three mfles from us, bearing Ntfan" Weft, a frefh gale from the South Eaft driving more ice to the North Weft, arid increafing ftfe body that lay b^ween lis. '€)ur latitude, rfy Vol, TT1 s account, s$8 1779. July. Satur. 24 A VOYAGE TO account, was 6^° 8', the longitude 1870, and the depth of water twenty-eight fathoms. To add to the gloomy apprehenfions which began to force themfelves on us, at half paft four in the afternoon, the weather becoming thick and hazy, we loft fight of the Difcovery; but, that we might be in a fituation to afford her every affiftance in our power, we kept ftanding on clofe by the edge of the ice. At fix, the wind happily coming round to the North, gave us fome hopes, that the ice might drift away and releafe her ; and in that cafe, as it was uncertain in what condition fhe might come out, we kept firing a gun every half hour, in order to prevent a feparation. Our apprehenfions for her fafety did not ceafe till nine, when we heard her guns in anfwer to ours; and foon after, being hailed by her, were informed, that upon the change of wind, the ice began to feparate; and that, fetting all their fails, they forced a paffage through it. We learned farther, that whilft they were encompaffed by it, they found the fhip drift, with the main body, to the North Eaft, at the rate of half a mile an hour. We were forry to find, that the Difcovery had rubbed off a great deal of the fheathing from the bows, and was become very leaky, from the ftrokes fhe had received when fhe fell upon the edge of the ice. On the 24th, we had frefh breezes from South Weft, with hazy weather, and kept running to the South Eaft till eleven in the forenoon, when a large body of loofe ice, extending from North North Eaft, round by the Eaft, to South South Eaft, and to which (though the weather was tolerably clear) we could fee no end, again obftructed our courfe. We therefore kept working to windward, and at noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was 68° 53', longitude 1880; the variation of the compafs 2.2. ° 30' Eaft. At four in THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 259 ■1779- Juiy- in the afternoon it became calm, and we hoifted out the boats in purfuit of the fea-horfes, which were in prodigious herds on every fide of us. We killed ten of them, which were as many as we could make ufe of for eating,or for converting into lamp oil. We kept on with the wind, from the South Weft, along the edge of the ice, which extended in a direction almoft due Eaft and Weft, till four in the morning of the 25th, when Sw^ 25' obferving a clear fea beyond it, to the South Eaft, we made fail that way, with a view of forcing through it. By fix, we had cleared it, and continued the remainder of the day running to the South Eaft, without any ice in fight. At noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was 68° 38', longitude 18 90 9', and the depth of water thirty fathoms. At midnight, we tacked, and ftood to the Weftward, with a frefh gale from the South ; and at ten in the forenoon of the 26th, the ice again Mon. 46. fhewed itfelf, extending from North Weil to South, ft appeared loofe, and drifting, by the force of the wind, to the Northward. At noon* our latitude, by obfervation, was 68° North, longitude 1880 io' Eaft; and we had foundings with twenty-eight fathoms. For the remaining part of the day, and till noon of the 27th, we Tuet 37* kept ftanding backward and forward, m order to clear ourfelves of different bodies of ice. At noon, we were in latitude, by obfervation, 670 47', longitude 188°. At two in the afternoon, we faw the continent to the South by Eaft ; and at four, having run, fince noon, with a South South Eaft wind to the South Weft* we were furrounded by loofe maffes of ice, with the firm body of it in fight, ftretchihg in a North by Weft, and a South by Eaft direction, as far as the eye could reach ; beyond which we faw the coaft of Afia, bearing South, and South by Eaft. S 2 • As 13 1 a6o 1779. A VOYAGE TO As it was now neceffary to come to fome determination with refpect to the courfe we were next to fleer, Captain Clerke fent a boat, with the carpenters, on board the Difcovery, to inquire into the particulars of the damage fhe had fuftained. They returned, in the evening, with the report of Captain Gore, and of the carpenters of both fhips, that the damages they had received were of a kind that would require three weeks to repair ; and that it would be neceffary, for that purpofe, to go into fome port. Thus, finding a farther advance to the Northward, as well as a nearer approach to either continent, obftructed by a fea blocked up with ice, we judged it both injurious to the fervice, by endangering the fafety of the fhips, as well as fruitlefs, with refpect to the defign of our voyage, to make any farther attempts toward a paffage. This, therefore, added to the reprefenta- tions of Captain Gore, determined Captain Clerke not to lofe more time in what he concluded to be an unattainable object, but to fail for Awatfka Bay, to repair our damages there; and,. before the winter mould fet in, and render all other efforts toward difcovery impracticable, to explore the coaft of Japan. I will not endeavour to conceal the joy that brightened the countenance of every individual, as foon as Captain Clerke's refolutions were made known. We were all heartily fick of a navigation full of danger, and in which the utmoft perfeverance had not been repaid with the fmalleft probability of fuccefs. We therefore turned our faces toward home, after an abfence of three years, with a delight and fatisfaction, which, notwithftanding the tedious voyage we had ftill to make, and the immenfe diftance we had to run, were as freely entertained, and perhaps as fully THE PACIFIC OCEAN. *6i fqlly enjoyed, as if we had been already in fight \ 779- of the Land's-end. d^^ On the 28th, we kept working to windward Wednef. with a frefh breeze from the South Eaft, having 28. the coaft of Afia ftill in fight. At four tn the morning, the Cape, which on the authority of Muller, we have called Serdze Kamen, bore South South Weft, diftant fix or feven leagues. We faw, in different places, upon the tops of the hills, which rife inland omboth fides of the Cape, protuberances of a confiderable height, which had the appearance of huge rocks, or pillars of ftone. On the 29th, the wind ftill continuing con- Thur. 29, trary, we made but flow progrefs to the Southward. At midnight we had thick, foggy weather, accompanied with a breeze from the North North Weft, with which we directed our courfe to the South South Eaft, through the ftraits, and had no land in fight til! feven in the evening of the 30th; when the fog clearing Friday away, we faw Cape Prince of Wales bearing 3 South by Eaft, diftant about fix leagues ; and the ifland St. Diomede South Weft by Weft. We now altered our courfe to the Weft, and at eight made the Eaft Cape, which, at midnight, bore Weft by North, diftant four leagues. In the night we fteered to the South South Weft, with a frefh Weft North Wefterly breeze ; and, at four in the morning of the 31ft, the Eaft Saturday Cape bore North North Eaft, and the North 31- Eaft part of the bay of St. Laurence (where we f|fc; anchored the laft year) Weft by South, its diftance being four leagues. As we could not have wojjked up to windward without a greater wafte of time, fpan the object appeared to de- ferve, we ran acrofs the bay, regretting much, as wer Rfwjfd along, the lofs of this opportunity of paying a fecond vifit to the Tfchutfki. At noon *6a 1779. J«iy- A VOYAGE TO noon our latitude, by obfervation, was 650 &, and longitude 1890. The South point of the Bay of St. Laurence bore North by Weft one quarter Weft, and was diftant feven or eight leagues. In the afternoon the variation was found to be 2 2° 50' Eaft. Having now paffed Beering's Straits, and taken our final leave of the North Eaft coaft of Afia, it may not be improper, on this occafion, to ftate the grounds on which we have ventured to adopt two general conclufions refpecting its extent, in oppofition to the opinions of Mr. Muller. The firft, that the promontory named Eaft Cape is actually the Eafternrnoft point of that quarter of the globe ; or, in other words, that no part of the continent extends in longitude beyond 1900 22' Eaft: the fecond, that the latitude of the North Eafternrnoft extremity falls to the Southward of 700 North. With refpect to the former, if fuch land exift, it muft neceffarily be to the-, North of latitude 69°, where the difcoveries made in the prefent voyage terminate ; and, therefore, the probable direction of the coaft, beyond this point, is the queflion I lhaii endeavour, in the firft place, to inveftigate. As the Ruffian is the only nation that has hitherto navigated thefe feas, all our information refpecting the fituation of the coaft to the Northward of Cape North, muft neceffarily be derived from the charts and journals of the perfons who have been employed, at various times, in afcer- taining the limits of that empire • and thefe are, for the moft part, fo imperfect, fo confufed, and contradictory, that it is not eafy to form any diftinct idea of their pretended, much lefs to collect the amount of their real difcoveries. ft is on this account, that the extent and form of the peninfula, inhabited by the Tfchutfki, ftili remains a point, pn which the Ruffian geographers THE PACIFIC OCEAN. phers are much divided. Mr. Muller, in his map, publifhed in the year X754, fuppofes this country to extend toward the North Eaft, to the 750 of latitude, and in longitude 1900 Eaft of Greenwich, and to terminate in a round Cape, which he calls Tfchukotfkoi Nofs. To the Southward of this Cape he conceives the coaft to form a bay to the Weftward, bounded in latitude 670 18', by Serdze Kamen, the North- ernmoft point feen by Beering in his expedition in the year 1728. The map, publifhed by the academy of St. Peterfburg,in the year 1776, gives the whole peninfula intirely a new form, placing its North Eafternrnoft extremity in the latitude 730, longitude i78°30'. The Eafternrnoft point in latitude 650 30', longitude 1890 30'. All the other maps we faw, both printed and in manufcript, vary between thefe two, apparently more according to the fancy of the compiler, than on any grounds of more accurate information. The only point in which there is a general coincidence, without any confiderable variation, is in the pofition of the Eaft Cape in latitude 66°. The form of the coaft, both to the South and North of this Cape, in the map of the academy, is exceedingly erroneous, and may be totally difregarded. In that of Mr. Muller, the coaft to the Northward bears a confiderable refemblance to our furvey, as far as the latter extends, except that it does not trend fufficiently to the Weftward ; receding only about 50 of longitude, between the latitude of 66° and 69°; whereas, in reality, it recedes near ten. Between the latitude 69° and 740, he makes the coaft bend round to the North and North Eaft, and to form a confiderable promontory. On what authority, now remains to be examined. Mr. Coxe, whofe accurate refearches into this fubject, give his opinion great weight, is per- fuaded that the extremity of the Nofs in quef- tion, 263 '779- July- 264 A V O Y A G I T O '779- %8P» was never pa$ed but by Defhneff and bis -1" f; , party, who failed from the river.Kovyjma in the year 1648, and are fqpjp,ofed to have got round itin^o-the Anadyr. As the account of this expedition, the fu^ftj^Lce of which the Reader will find in Mr. Coxe's Account of Rufffan Difcoveries, contains-no geographical delineation of the coaft algng which they failed, its pofition muft be conjectured from incidental circum- r^ances ; and from i^efe it appears very manifeff that the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs of Defhneff is no •oj^ier than the promontory called, by Captain Cook, the .#aft Cape. Speaking of the Nofs, he fays, " One might fail frcjm the pwimusJ^ " the riypr,-riAnadyr, with a (W wind, in three 6C days and three nights." This exactly coincides w$b> $e fituation of flie jSafl^„Cape, wyicp is about one hundred and twenty leagues from -$ag mpu|h of the ^nadyr ; and as there is no j®t|ier ifthmjU£ to tb|e Northw^-d between /that; ..gnd the lafijfeidf pf 690, ft-js.DDv^ou*,'. that, by •^his defcry^tion, he^go,^ intend ejiher the Cajae in quefliog, pr £&%&'</$£§? to the Southward of it. In another-jplgpe hg fays, " Over a^finft the " ifthmuft, \jfcere ^e two iflands in the fea, " Ujaon ^fhich.j^gc^^e^ people of the Tfehuuki if nation throjugh w^^gfe( lips ,j^e,re rufi piysces of I the t,ej|jjj;.Gif. the J^-^prie." TMs again per- ..j^i^;;agrees with i^e two ifla,ads fftijated to|Ke vljfliith f^f£©f ,^hej£a|l Cape. We faaundeed no inhabift;a$$s on them ; ^ut jf isg^Ma^mpcb^a- i fete^lfeiJ ajgprfy pf thf^^merfc^u^vfrpm the oppo- , fite fx^itineru^ if-hpm tijus defc/SiiQn agcntki&Ly w6iJ5sJ m'gnf at that time, h^ve.peeaiacc^dentelly .'.Jjbjere; and whpm it was natuj^ ejV^u^rVJtor him to mifta)fe,for a tribe p,f the Tfqfig^.^.E 53»? Thefe $ From the circumftarice, related in the laft Vq'urne, WH^t-gave n-ame to Sledgg Iflasd, it appgafcs, thai r^eih- liabitants of the adjacent continents yilit occafionaliy the Filial 1 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Thefe two circumftances are of fo ftriking nnd unequivocal a nature, that they appear to , me conclufive on the point of the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, notwithftanding there are others of a more doubtful kind, which we have from the fame authority, and which now remain to be confc dered. " To go," fays Defhneff in anof|ejr account, » from the Kovyma, to the Anadyr, 44 a great promontory muft be doubled,, which " ftretches very far into trjg. fea; and afterward, ** this promontory ftretches between jJorth and ** North Eaft." It was probably from the ex- preffions contained in thefe pafjages, that Mr. Jvluller was induced to give the country of the 'TfchutfKithe form we find in his map ; but had he been acquainted with the fituation of the Eaft Cape/'as. ascertained by Captain Cook, and the remarkable coincidencg_freWeen it and the^r promontory or.inhmus (for it mufl be obferygd, that Defhneff appears to be all along fpeakigjg of the fame thing), in thexircum^nces already mentioned, I am confident, he would not have thought thofe expreffiphs, merely by thernfeives, of fumcient; weight J:p warrant.Mm in extending 3^5 fmalrin'ands lying between them, probably for the con? veniefi-cy of mnrng, or in puriui't of furs. If appears alffi from PopofFs depofition, which I fhall pffle occafion to fpeak of more particularly hereafter, that the general referobJance between the people, who are feen iri l,hefe iflands, and the Tfchutfki, was fufhv cient to lead Defhneff*into the error'of imagining them to be JiBieJ-jame. " Oppofite to the Nofs," he fays, " is an j|Jand of moderate fize, without trees, whofe ^inhabitants refemble, in their exterior, the Tfchutfki, fl$o$$b they are quite another, nation ;. not numerous indeed,, .vet fpeaking their own particular language." Again, "One i u&y gP in a baidare froth the Nofs to the ifljMKl in half . -fi^ay ; jb^foro^ljs a great continent, which can be difcovered from the ifland in ferene weather. When the weather is good, one may go from the ifland to the continent in a day. The inhabitants of the continent are ffmi- lar tg the Tfchutfki, excepting that they fpeak another language." a6S 1779. July. A VOYAGE TO the North Eaftern extremity of Afia, either fo far to the North or to the Eaftward. For, after all, thefe expreflions are not irreconcileable with the opinion we have adopted, if we fuppofe Defhneff to have taken thefe bearings from the fmall bight which lies to the Weftward of the Cape. The depofition of the Coffa.c Popoff, taken at the Anadirfkoi oftrog, inthe year 1711, feems to have been the next authority on which Mr. Muller has proceeded; and befide thefe two, I am not acquainted with any other. This Cof- fac, together with feveral others, was fent by land to demand tribute from the independent Tfchutfki tribes, who lived about the Nofs. The firft circumftance, in the account of this journey, that can lead to the fituation of Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, is its diftance from Anadirfk; and this is flated to be ten weeks journey, with loaded rein-deer; on which account it is added, their day's journey was but very fmall. It is Impoffible to conclude much from fo vague an account; but, as the diftance between the Eaft Cape and the oftrog is upward of two hundred leagues in a ftraight line, and therefore may be fuppofed to allow twelve or fifteen miles a day; its fituation cannot be reckoned incompatible with Popoff's calculation. The next circumftance mentioned in this depofition is, that their route lay by the foot of a rock called Matkol, fituated at the bottom of a great gulph. This gulf Muller fuppofes to be the bay he had laid down between latitude 66° and 720 ; and accordingly places the rock Matkol in the centre of it; but it appears equally probable, even if we had not fo many reafons to doubt the exiftence of that bay, that it might be fome part of the gulf of Anadir, which they would undoubtedly touch upon in their road from the oftrog to the Eaft Cape. But THE PACIFIC OCEAN. But what feems to put this matter beyond all difpute, and to prove that the Cape vifited by Popoff cannot be to the Northward of 6o° latitude, is that part of his depofition, which I have already quoted, relative to the ifland lying off the Nofs, from whence the oppofite continent might be feen. For as the two continents, in latitude 69°, have diverged fo far as to be more than three hundred miles diftant, it is highly improbable, that the Afiatic coaft fhould again trend in fuch a manner to the Eaftward, as to come nearly within fight of the Coaft of America. If thefe arguments fhould be deemed conclu- five againft the exiftence of the peninfula of the Tfchutfki, as laid down by Muller, it will follow, that the Eaft Cape of the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs of the * more early Ruffian navigators; and, confequently, that the undefcribed coaft, from the latitude of 69° to the mouth of the river Kovyma, muft uniformly trend more or left to the Weftward. As an additional proof of this, it may be remarked, that the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs is always reprefented as dividing the fea of Kovyma from that of Anadir, which could not be the cafe, if any confiderable cape had projected to the North Eaft in the higher latitudes. Thus, in the depositions taken at Anadirfk, it is related, " that " oppofite the Nofs, on both fides, as well in " the fea of Kovyma, as in that of Anadir, an ** ifland is faid to be feen at a great diftance, " which the Tfchutfki call a large country ; and " fay, that people dwell there who have large " teeth put in their mouths, that project through t* their cheeks." Then follows a defcription of thefe people and their country, exactly corre- * I mention the more early Ruffian navigators, becaufe Beering, whom we have alfo followed, and after him all the late Ruffian geographers, have given this name to the South. Eaft Cape of the peninfula of the Tfchutfki, which was formerly called the Anadirfkoi Nofs. fponding 1779- July. m A VOYAGE TO *779- Ju'y- ^bonding with our accounts of the oppofite continent. ;_£.? The laft queflion that arifes is, to what degree of Northern latitude this coaft ^xtends, before it trends more directly to the Weftward. If the fituation of the mouth of the Kovyma, both with refpect to its latitude and longitude, were accurately determined, it would perhaps not be very difficult to form a probable conjecture upon this point. Captain Cook, was'always ftrongly ipjf opinion, that the Northern coaft of rAfia, from the Indigirka eaftward, has hitherto been generally7 laid down more than two degrees to the Northward of its true pofition ; and be has, therefore, on the authority of a map that was in his poffeflion, and on the information he received at Oonalafhka, placed the mouth of the river Kpvvma, in his chart "of the North Weft coaft of America, and the North Eaft coaft of Afia, in the latitude of 68°. Should he be right In this conjecture, it is probable, for the reafons that have been already flated, that the Afiatic coaft does not any where exceed 700 before it trends j:o the Weftward ; and confequently, that we were within i° of its North Eaftern extremity. For, if the continent be fuppofed to ftretchjany where to the Northward of Sffelatfkoi Nofs, it is fcarcely poffible, that fo extraordinary a circumftance fhould not have been mentioned by the Ruffian navigators ; and we have; already ihewn, that they make mention of no remarkable promontory between the Kovyma and the Anadir, except the Eaft Cape. Another circumftance, relafed by Peflinem Tmy, perhaps, be thought a further confirmation of this opinion, namely, that ne met with no drrfoedimenf from ice in navigating round the North Eaft extremity of Afia; trTbugh he adds, that this fea is not always fp.free from it as indeed is maniffW from THE PACIFIC OCEAN. from the failure of his firft expedition, and, fince that, from the unfuccefsful attempts of Snalau- rpff, and the obftacles we met with, in two different years, in our prefent voyage. . The continent, left undetermined in our chart, between Cape North, and fhe mouth of the Kovyma, is, in longitudinal extent, one hufidred and twenty-five leagues. One third, or about forty leagues, of this diftance, from the Kovyma Eaftward, was explored in the year 1723, by a Sinbojarfkoi of Jakutz, whofe name was Fedd£ Amoffoff; by whom Mr. Muller was informed, that its direction was to the Eaftward. It is faid to have been fince accurately furveyed by Sha- lauroff, whofe chart makes it trend to the Norm Eaft by Eaft, as far as the Shelatfkoi Nofs, which he places about forty-three leagues to the Eaftward of the Kovyma. The fpace between this Nofs and Cape North, about eighty-two leagues, is therefore the only part of the Ruffian empire that now remains unascertained. But if the river Kovyma be erroneoufly fituated with refpect to its longitude, as well as in its latitude, a fuppofition for which probable grounds are not wanting, the extent of the unexplored coaft will become proportion ably dirai- nifhed. The reafons which incline me to believe, that the mouth of this river is placed in the Ruffian charts much too far to the Weftward, are as follow : Firfl, becaufe the accounts that are given of the navigation of the Frozen Sea from that river, round the North Eaft point of Afia, to the gulf of Anadir, do not accord with the fuppofed diftance between thofe places. Secondly, becaufe the diftance over land, from the Kovyma to the Anadir, is reprefented by the early Ruffian travellers as a journey eafily performed, and of no very extraordinary length. Thirdly, becaufe the coaft from the Shelatfkoi Nofs i% July. t 270 - 1779. July- A VOYAGE TO Nofs of Shalauroff * feems to trend directly South Eaft to the Eaft Cape. If this be fo, it will follow, that, as we were probably not more than 1 ° to the Southward of Shelatfkoi Nofs, only fixty miles of the Afiatic coaft remain unafcertained. Had Captain Cook lived to this period of our voyage, and experienced, in a fecond attempt, the impracticability of a North Eaft or North Weft paffage from the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean, he would doubtlefs have laid before the Public, in one connected view, an account of the ob- ftacles which defeated this, the primary object of our expedition, together with his obfervations on a fubject of fuch magnitude, and which had engaged the attention, and divided the opinions of philofophers and navigators, for upward of two hundred years. I am very fenflble how unequal I am to the tafk of fupplying this deficiency ; but that the expectations of the reader may not be wholly difappointed, I muft beg his candid acceptance of the following obfervations, as well as of thofe I have already ventured to offer him, relative to the extent of the North Eaft coaft of Afia. The evidence that has been fo fully and judici- oufly flated in the introduction, amounts to the higheft degree of probability, that a North Weft paffage, from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, cannot exift to the Southward of 65° of latitude. If then there exiiis a paffage, it muft be either through Baffin's Bay, or round by the North of Greenland, in the Weftern hemifphere ; or elfe through the Frozen Ocean, to the Northward of Siberia, in the Eaftern ; and on which ever fide it lies, the navigator muft neceffarily pafs through Beering's Straits. The impracticability of penetrating into the Atlantic on either fide, through this ftrait, is therefore all that remains to be fub- mitted to the confideration of the Public. As * See Chart in Coxe's Account of Ruffian Difcoveries. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 'As far as our experience went, it appears, that the fea to the North of Beering's ftrait, is clearer of ice in Auguft than in July, and perhaps in a part of September it may be ftill more free. But after the equinox, the days fhorten fo faft, that no farther thaw can be expected ; and we cannot rationally allow fo great an effect to the warm weather in the firft half of September, as to imagine it capable of difperfing the ice from the moft Northern parts of the American coaft. But admitting this to be poffible, it muft at leaft be granted, that it would be madnefs to attempt to run from the'Icy Cape to the known parts of Baffin's Bay (a diftance of four hundred and twenty leagues), in fo fhort a time as that paffage can be fuppofed to continue open. Upon the Afiatic fide, there appears ftill lefs probability of fuccefs, both from what came to our own knowledge, with refpect to the ftate of the fea to the Southward of Cape North, and alfo from what we learn from the experience; of the * Lieutenants under Beering's direction, and the journal of Shalauroff, in regard to that on the North of Siberia. The voyage of Defhneff, if its truth be admitted, proves undoubtedly the poffibility of paffing round the North Eaft point of Afia; but when the reader reflects, that near a century and a half has elapfed fince the time of that navigator, during which, in an age of great curiofity and enterprize, no man has yet been able to follow him, he will not entertain very fanguine expectations of the public advantages that can be derived from it. But let us even fuppofe, that in fome Angularly favourable feafon a fhip has found a clear paffage round the coaft of Siberia, and is fafely arrived at the mouth of the Lena, 27 s «779- 'July. hi * See Gmelin, pages 369, 374. ilill A VOYAGE TO 1779- "Tuly. ftill there remains the Cape of Taimura, ftretch- mg to the 7 8° of latitude, which the good fortune of no fingle voyager has hitherto doubled. It is, however, contended, that there are ftrong reafons for believing, that the fea is more free from ice, the nearer we approach to the pole; and that all the ice we faw in the lower latitudes, was formed imjhe great rivers of Siberia and America, the breaking up of which had filled the intermediate fea. But even if that fup- pofition be true, it is equally fo, that there can be no accefs to thofe open feas, unlefs this great mafs of ice is fo far diffolved in the fummer, as to admit of a fhip's getting through it. If this be the fact, we have taken a wrong time of the year for attempting to find this paffage, which mould have been explored in April and May, before the rivers were broken up. But how many reafons may be given againft fuch a fuppo- fition. Our experience at Saint Peter and Saint Paul enabled us to judge what might be expected farther North ; and upon that ground, we had reaforj^to doubt, whether the continents might not in winter be even joined by theice ; and this agreed with the (lories we . heard in Kamfchatka, that on the Siberian coaft, they go out from the fhore in winter, upon the ice to greater diftances than the breadth of the fea is in fome parts, from one continent to the other. In the depofitions referred to above, the following remarkable circumftance is related. Speaking of the land feen from the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, it is faid, | that in fummer time they fail in one day to the land in baidares, a fort of veffel conilructed of whale-bone, and covered with feallkins.; and in winter time, going fwift with reindeer, the journey may likewife be mad e in a day. A fufficient proof that the two THE PACIFIC OCEAN. two countries were ufually joined together by the ice. The account given by Mr. Muller, of one of the expeditions undertaken to difcover a fuppofed ifland in the Frozen Sea, is ftill more remarkable. " In the year 1714, a new expedi- " tion was prepared from Jakutzk, for the fame " place, under the command of Alexei Markoff, 3 who was to fail from the mouth of the Jana ; " and if the Schitiki were not fit for fea voyages,; " he waSjto conftruct, at a proper place, veffels " fit for profeciiting the difcoveries without " danger^, S On his arrival at Uft-janfkoe Simovie, the *' port at which he was to embark, he fent an 9 account, dated February Z, 1715, to the *' Chancery of Jakutzk, mentioning, .that it wa3 s' impoffible to navigate the fea, as it was con- " tinually frozen, both in fummer and winter j " and that, confequently, the intended expedi- " tion, was no otherwife to be carried on, but- ** with fledges drawn by dogs. In this manner,, *' he accordingly fet out, with nine perfons, on *' the 10th of March the fame year, and re- *e turned on the 3d of April, to Uft-janfkoe " Simovie. The account of his journey is as *' follows : that he went feven days, as fall as " his dogs could draw him (which, in good " ways and weather, is eighty or a hundred *' werfts in a day) directly toward the North, " upon the ice, without dif^pvering any ifland ; " that ?t had not been poffible for him to pro- tc ceed any farther, the ice rifing there in the " fea like mountains: that he had climbed to " the top of fome of them, whence he was able " to fee to a great diftance round about him, but s' could difcern no appearance of land : and that, at laft, III. wanting T food for his dogs,; 1-779. July. a many 274 A V O Y A G E T O i?79- 1 many of them died, which obliged him to July. I return." Befides thefe arguments, which proceed upon an admiffion of the hypothefis, that the ice in thofe feas crimes from the rivers, there are others which give great room to fufpect the truth of the hypothefis itfelf. Captain Cook, whofe opinion refpecting the formation of ice had formerly coincided with that of the theorifts we are now controverting, found abundant reafon, in the prefent voyage, for changing his fentiments. We found the coaft of each continent to be low, the foundings gradually decreafing toward them, and a ftriking refemblance between the two ; which, together with the defcription Mr. Hearne gives of the Coppermine river, afford reafon to conjecture, that whatever riv%rs may empty themfelves into the Frozen Sea, from the American continent, are of the fame nature with thofe on the Afiatic fide ! which are reprefented to be fo (hallow at the entrance, as to admit only fmall veffels ; whereas the ice we have feen, rifes above the level of the fea to a height equal to the depth of thofe rivers ; fo that its entire height muft be at leaft ten times greater. The curious reader will alfo, in this place, be led naturally to reflect on another circumftance, which appears very incompatible with the opinion of thofe who imagine land to be neceffary for the formation of ice; I mean the different ftate of the fea about Spitfbergen, and to the North of Beering's Straits. It is incumbent on them to explain how it comes to pafs, that in the former qtiarter, and in the vicinity of much known land, the navigator annually penetrates to near 8o° North latitude 1 whereas, on the other fide, his utmoft efforts have not been able to carry him beyond 710; where, moreover, the continents THE PACIFIC OCEAN. continents diverge nearly Eaft and Weft, and where there is no land yet known to exift near the pole. For the farther fatisfaction of the reader on this point, I fhall beg leave to refer him to Obfervations made during a voyage round the world, by Dr. Forfter, where he will find the queflion of the formation of ice, fully and fan's- factorily difcuffed, and the probability of open polar feas difproved by a variety of powerful arguments. I fhahVponclude thefe remarks with a fhort comparative view of the progrefs we made to the Northward, at the two different feafons we were engaged in that purfuit, together with a few general obfervations relative to the fea, and the coaft of the two continents, which lie to the North of Beering's Straits. It may be obferved, that in the year 1778, we did not meet with the ice, till we advanced to the latitude of 700, on Auguft 17th; and that then we found it in compact bodies, extending as far as the eye could reach, and of which a part Jpr the whole was moveable, fince, |iy its drifting down upon us, we narrowly efcaped being hemmed in between it and the land. After experiencing both how fruitlefs and dangerous it would be to attemjgfto penerate farther North, between the ice and the land, we flood over toward the Afiatic fide, between the latitude 69° and 700, frequently encountering, in this tract, large and extenfive fields of ice; and though, by reafon of the fogs, and thicknefs of the weather, we were not-able ab- folutelynarrd'entirely to trace a connected line of it acrofs, yet we were fure to meet with it before we reached the latitude of jo°, whenever we attempted to ftand to the Northward. On the 26th of Auguft, in latitude 69° f, and longi- T 2 tude 17 Tu 27S 79- y. ISi ij6 A VOYAGE TO '779- tude 184°, we were obftructed by it in fuch * V-/'~„j quantities, as made it impoffible for us to pafs either to the North or Well, and obliged us to run along the edge of it to the South South Weft, till we faw land, which we afterward found to be the coaft of Afia. With the feafon thus far advanced, the weather fetting in with fnow and fleet, and other figns of approaching winter, we abandoned our enterprize for that time. In this fecond attempt, we could do little more than confirm the obfervations we had made in the firft; for we were never able to approach the continent of Afia higher than the latitude of 67®, nor that of America in any parts, excepting a few leagues between the latitude of 68° and 6b'° 2d', that Were not feen the laft year. We were now obftructed by ice 3° lower, and our endeavours to pufh farther to the Northward, were principally confined to the mid-fpace between the two coafts. We penetrated near 30 farther on the American fide than on the Afiatic, meeting with the ice both years fooner, and in greater quantities, on the latter coaft. As we advanced North, we ftill found the ice more compact and folid ; yet as,- in our different tra- verfes from fide to fide, we paffed over fpaces which had before been covered with it, w£ conjectured, that moft of what we faw Was moveable. Itsheight, on a medium, we took to be from eight to ten feet, and that of the higheft to have been fixteen or eighteen. We again tried the currents twice, and found them unequal, but never to exceed one mile an hour. By comparing the reckoning with the obfervations, we alfo found the current to fet different ways, yet more from the South Well than any other quarter ; but whatever their direction might be, their effect was fo trifling, that no conclufions, refpecting the exiftence of any paffage to the Northward, could be THE PACIFIC OCEAN. be drawn from them. We found the month of July to be infinitely colder than that of Auguft. The thermometer in July was once ^t 28% and very commonly at 30"; whereas the laft year, in Auguft, it was very rare to have it fo low as the freezing point. In both feafons, we had fome high winds, all of which came, |rom the South Weft. We were fubject to fogs, whenever the wind was moderate, from whatever quarter, but they attended Southerly winds more conllantly than contrary ones. The ftraits, between the two continents, af their neareft approach, in latitude 66°, were afcertained to be thirteen leagues, beyond which they diverge to North Eaft by Eaft and Weft North Weft ; and in latitude 69", they become 14.0 of longitude, or about one hundred leagues afunder. A great fimilarity is obfervable in the appearance of the two countries, to the Northward of the ftraits. Both are deftitute of wood. The fhores are low, with mountains rifing to a great height farther up the country. The depth of water, in the mid-way between them, was twenty-nine and thirty fathoms, decreafing gradually as we approached either continent, with the difference of being fomewhat fhoaler on the American than on the Afiatic coaft," at the fame diftance from land. The bottom, in. the middle, was a foft flimy mud ; and on drawing near to either fhore, a brown fand, intermixed with fmall fragments of bones, and a few fhells. We obferved but little tide or current \ what there was, came from the Weftward. But it;is now time to refume the narrative of pur voyage, which was broken off on the 31 ft of July, on which day at noon we had advanced eighteen leagues to the South ward of the Eaft Cape. W« *77 J779- July. 1 2?8 A VOYAGE TO »779- Auguft. Sundayi. We had light airs from the South Weft, till noon of the ill of Auguft, at which time our latitude, by obfervation, was 640 23', longitude 1890 15', the coaft of Afia, extended from North Weft by Weft to Weft half South, diftant about twelve leagues ; and the land to the Eaftward of Saint Laurence bore South half ^flond, t. Weft. On the 2d, the weather becoming clear, we faw the fame land at noon, bearing from Weil South Weft half Weft to South Eaft, making in a number of high hummocks, which had the appearance of feparate iflands; the latitude, by obfervation, was 640 3', longitude 3 890 28', and depth of water feventeen fathoms. We did not approach this land fufficiently near to determine, whether it was one ifland, or compofed of a clufter together. Its Wellernmofl part we paffed July 3d, in the evening, and then fuppofed to be the ifland of Saint Laurence -, the Eafternrnoft we ran clofe by in September laft year, and this we named Clerke's Ifland, and found it to confifl of a number of high cliffs, joined together by very low land. Though we miftook, the laft year, thofe cliffs I for feparate iflands, till we approached very near the fhore, I fliould ftill conjecture, that the ifland Saint Laurence was diflinct from Clerke's Ifland, fince there appeared a confiderable fpace between them, where we could not perceive the froallefl rifing of ground. In the afternoon, we alfo faw what bore the appearance of a fmall ifland, to the North Eaft of the land, which was feen at noon, and which from the hazinefs of the weather, we had only fight of once. We efti- mated its diftance to be nineteen leagues from the ifland of Saint Laurence, in a North Eaft Tuefd. 3. by Eaft halrfEaft direction. On the 3d, we had light variable winds, and directed our courfe round the North Weft point of the ifland of Saint THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 279 Saint Laurence. On the 4th at noon, our lati- J779- titude, by account, was 640 8', longitude 1880 ; ^^^3 the ifland St. Laurence bearing South one quarter Wed. 4. Eaft, diftant feven leagues. In the afternoon, a frefh breeze fpringing jtip from the Eaft, we fteered to the South South Weft, and foon loft fight of St. Laurence. On the 7th, at noon, Saturd. 7. the latitude, by obfervation, was 590 38', longitude 1830. In the afternoon, it fell calm, and we got a great number of cod in feventy-eight fathoms of water. The variation was found to be 19° Eaft. From this time, to the 17th, we were making the beft of our way to fi>s South, without any occurence worth remarking, except that the wind coming from the Weftern quarter, forced us farther to the Eaftward than we wifhed, as it was our intention to make Beering's ifland. On the 17th, at half paft four in the morning, Tuef. 17, we faw land to the North Weft, which we could not approach, the wind" blowing from that quarter. At noon, thffdatitude, by obfervation, was 53° 49', longitude 1680 5', and variation io° Eaft. The land in fight bore North by Weft, twelve or fourteen leagues diftant. This land we take to be the ifland Mednoi, laid down, in the Ruffian charts, to the South Eaft of Beering's Ifland. It is high land, and appeared clear of fnow. We place it in the latitude 540 28'-, longitude 167° 52'. We got no foundings with one hundred and fifty fathoms of line. Captain Gierke was now no longer able to get out of his bed ; he therefore defired, that the officers would receive their orders from me, and directed that we fhould proceed, with all fpeed, to Awatfka Bay. The Wind continuing Wefterly, we ftood on to the South, till early on the ui morning V O Y A G E O I A '779- morning of the 19th, when, after a few hours rain, it blew from the Eaftward, and frefbened rdingly made the Thur. 19 fir W< Frid. Satur. 21. co° 22 ccorc moft of it whilft it lafted, by ftanding to the Weftward, under all the fail we could carry. On the 20th, the wind fhifting to the South Weft, our courfe was to the Weft North Weft. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation* was 7', longitude 1620 49'. On the 21ft, at half paft five in the morning, we faw a very high peaked mountain on the coaft of Kamtfchatka, called Cheepoonfkoi Mountain, from its lying behind the Nofs, bearing North Weft by North, twenty-five ©ir- thirty leagues diftant. At noon, the coaft extended from North by Eaft to Weft, with a very great hazinefs upon it, and diftant about twelve leagues. We had light airs the remaining part of this and the following day, and got no foundings with one hundred and forty fathoms of line. On the 22d of Auguft, 1779, at nine o'clock in the morning, departed this life Captain Charles Clerke, in the thirty-eighth year of his age. He died of a confumption, which had evidently commenced before he left England, and of which he had lingered during the whole voyage. His very gradual decay had long made him a melancholy object to his friends ; yet the equanimity with which he bore it, the conftant flow •of good fpirits, which continued to the laft hour, and a cheerful refignation to his fate, afforded them fome confolation. It was impoffible not to feel a more than common degree of companion for a perfon, whofe life had been a continued fcene of thofe difficulties and hardfhips, to which a feaman's occupation is fubject, and under which he at laft funk. He was brought up to the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. the Navy from his earlieft youth, and had been in feveral actions during the war which began in 1756, particularly in that between the Bellona and Courageux, where being flationed in the mizen-top, he was carried overboard with the maft, but was taken up without having received any hurt. He was Midfhipman in the Dolphin, commanded by Commodore Byron, on her firft Voyage round the world > and afterward ferved on the American ftation. In 1768, he made his fecond voyage round the world, in the Endeavour, as Mailer's Mate, and by the promotion, which took place during the expedition, he returned a Lieutenant. His third voyage round the world was in the Refolution, of which he was appointed the Second Lieutenant: and foon after his return, in 1775, he was promoted to the rank of Mafter and Commander. When the prefent expedition was ordered to he fitted out, he was appointed to the Difcovery, to accompany Captain Cook » and, by the death of the latter, fucceeded, as has been already mentioned, to the chief command. It would be doing his memory extreme injuf- tice not to fay, that during the fliort time the expedition was under his direction, he was moft zealous and anxious for its fuccefs. His health, about the time the principal command devolved upon him, began to decline very rapidly, and was every way unequal to encounter the rigours of a high Northern climate. But the vigour and activity of his mind had, in no fhape, fuffered by the decay of his body: and though he knew, that by delaying his return to a warmer climate, he was giving up the only chance that remained for his recovery, yet, careful and jealous to the laft degree, that a regard to his own fituation ftiquld never bias his judgment to the prejudice c or 281 ?779. Auguft. IaJ of the fervice, he per fevered in the fearch of a paffage, till it was the opinion of every officer in both fhips, that it was impracticable, and that any farther attempts would not only be fruitlefs but dangerous. CHAP THE PACIFIC OCE N. CHAP. Return to the Harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.—Promotion of Officers.—Funeral of Captain Clerke.— Damages of the Difcovery repaired. —Various other Occupations of the Ships Crews. ■—- Letters from the Commander. — Supply of Flour and Naval Stores from a Ruffian Galliot, -r—Account of an Exile.—Bear-hunting and Fifhing Parties.—Dijgrace of the Serjeant.—Celebration of the King's Coronation Day, and Vifit from the Commander.—The Serjeant reinftated.—> A Ruffian Soldier promoted at our Requeft.—■ Remarks on the Difcipline of the Ruffian Army. •—Church at Paratounca. — Method of Bear- hunting. —Farther Account of the Bears and Kamtfchadales. •— Infcription to the Memory of Captain Clerke.—Supply of Cattle.—Entertainments on the EmpreJs's Name Day. —- Prefent from the Commander.—Attempt of a Marine to defert.—Work out of the Bay.—Nautical and Geographical Defcription of Awatfka Bay. —> Aftronomical Tables- and Obfervations. is] SENT Mr. Williamfon to acquaint Captain ty^g. Gore with the death of Captain Clerke, and Auguit. received a letter from him, ordering me * to ufe all my endeavours to keep in company with the Difcovery; and, in cafe of a feparation, to make the beft of my way to the harbour of St. Jreter Sund, 22, O Y A G E O Peter and St. Paul. At noon, we were in latitude 53° 8' North, longitude 1600 40' Eaft, with Cheepoonfkoi Nofs bearing Weil. We had light airs in the afternoon, which lafted through the forenoon of the 23d. At noon, a frefh breeze fpringing up from the Eaftward, we ftood in for the entrance of Awatfka Bay ; and at fix in the evening, faw it bearing Weft North Weft half Weft, diftant five leagues. At eight, the light houfe, in which we now found a good light, bore North Weft by Weft, three miles diftant. The wind about this time died away ; but the tide being in our favour, we fent the boats ahead, and towed -beyond the narrow parts of the entrance ; and, at one o'clock in the morning of the 24th, the ebb tide fetting againft us, we dropped anchor. At nine, we :d, and turned up the bay with light airs, and the boats ftill ahead till one ; when, by the help of a frefh breeze, we anchored, before three in the afternoon, in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, with our enfign half flaff up, on account of our carrying the body of our late Captain ; and were foon after followed by the Difcovery. We had no fooner anchored, than our old friend, the Serjeant, who was ftill the Commander of the place, came on board with a prefent of berries, intended for our poor deceafed Captain. He was exceedingly affected when we told him of his death, and fhewed him the coffin that contained his body. And as it was Captain Clerke's particular requeft to be buried on fliore, and, if poffible, in the church of Pa- ratounca, we took the prefent opportunity of explaining this matter to the Serjeant, and con- fulting with him about the proper fleps to be taken on the occafion. In the courfe of our converfation, which, for want pf an interpreter, was carried THE PACIFIC OCEAN. tarried on but imperfectly, we learned that Pro- feffor de L'Ifle, and feveral Ruffian gentlemen, who died here, had been' buried in the ground near the barracks, at the oftrog of St. Peter and St. Paul j and that this place would be preferable to Paratounca, as the church was to be removed thither the next year. It was therefore determined, that we fhould wait for the arrival of the Prieft of Paratounca, whom the Serjeant advifed us to fend for, as the only perfon that could fatisfy our inquiries on this fubject. The Serjeant having, at the fame time, fignified his intentions of fending off an exprefs to the Commander at Bolcheretfk, to acquaint him with our arrival, Captain Gore availed himfelf of that occafion of Writing him a letter, in which he requefted that fixteen head of black cattle might be fent with all poffible expedition. And becaufe the Commander did not underftand any language except his own, the nature of our requeft was made known to the Serjeant, who readily Undertook to fend, along with our letter, an explanation of its contents. We could not help remarking, that, although the country was much improved in its appearance fince we were laft here, the Ruffians looked, if poffible, worfe now than they did then. It is to be owned, they obferved, that this Was alfo the cafe with us; and as neither party feemed to like to be told of their bad looks, We found mutual confolatiort in throwing the blame upon the country, whofe green and lively complexion, we agreed, call a deadnefs and fallownefs upon bur own. The irruption of the volcano, which was fo violent when we failed out of the bay, we found, had done no damage here, notwithftanding ftones had fallen at the oftrog, of the fize of a goofe's is$ »779- Auguft. W eSg- A VOYAGE TO Wed. 25. M^ This was all the news we had to inquire and all they had to tell; excepting that of rival of Sopofnikoff from Oonalafhka, who took .j charge of the pacquet Captain Cook had fent to the Admiralty, and which, it gave us much fatisfaction to find, had been forwarded. In the morning of the 25th, Captain Gore made out the new commiffions, in confequence of Captain Clerke's death; appointing himfelf to the command of the Refolution, and me to the command of the Difcovery ; and Mft, La- nyan, mafter's Mate of the Refolution, who had ferved in that capacity on board the Adventure in the former voyage, was promoted to the va*. cant Lieutenancy. Thefe promotions produced the following farther arrangements: Lieutenants Burney and Rickman were removed from the Difcovery, to be Firft and Second Lieutenants of the Refolution ; and Lieutenant Williamfon was appointed Firft Lieutenant of the Difcovery, Captain Gore alfo permitted me to take into the Difcovery, four Midfhipmen, who had made themfelves ufeful to me in aftronomical calculations, and whofe affiftance was now particularly neceffary, as we had no ephemeris for the prefent year. And, that aftronomical obfervations might continue to be made in both fhips, Mr. Bayley took my place in the Refolution. The fame day we were vifited by the Pope Romanoff Verefhagen, the worthy Prieft of Paratounca. He expreffed his forrow at the death of Captain Clerke in a manner that did honour to his feelings, and confirmed the account given by the Serjeant, refpecting the intended removal of the church to the harbour ; adding, that the timber was actually preparing, but leaving the choice of either place entirely to Captain Gore. The Difcovery, as has been mentioned, had particularly on fuffered great damage from the ice, THE ACIFlC OCEAN. on the 23d day of July ; and having, ever fmce, 1779- been exceedingly leaky, it was imagined that ,Aug"tt\ fome of her timbers had ftarted. Captain Gore ^M^mm therefore fent the carpenters of the Refolution to affift our own in repairing her; and accordingly, the forehold being cleared, to lighten her forward, they were fet to work to rip the damaged fheathing from the larboard bow. This operation difcovered, that three feet of the third ftrake, under the wale, were ftaved, and the timbers within ftarted. A tent was next erected, for the accommodation of fuch of our people as were employed on fhore ; and a party were fent a mile into the country, to the Northward of the harbour, to fell timber. The obfervatories were erecled at the Weft end of the village, near a tent, in which Captain Gore and myfelf took up our abode. The farther we proceeded in removing the Thur.26. fheathing, the more we difcovered of the decayed ftate of the Chip's hull. The next morning, eight feet of a plank in the wale were found to be fo exceedingly rotten, as to make it neceffary to fhift it. This left us for fome time at a ftand, as nothing was to be found, in either fhip, wherewith to replace it, unlefs we chofe to cut up a top-maft; an expedient not to be had recourfe to, till ailothers failed. The carpenters v/ere therefore fent on fliore in the afternoon, in fearch of a tree big enough for the purpofe. Luckily they found a birch, which I believe was the only one of fufficient fize in the whole neighbourhood of the bay, and which had been fawed down by us when we were laft here; fo that it had the advantage of having lain fome time to feafon. This was fliaped on the fpot, and brought on board the next morning. 13 m As £88 A VOYAGE TO £779. As the feafonrwas now fo far advanced, I was ■A"g^ft', fearful left any delay or hindrance fhould arife, on our parts, to Captain Gore's farther views of difcovery, and therefore gave orders that no more fheathing fhould be ripped off, than was abfolutely neceffary for repairing the damages fuilained by the ice. This I did, being appre- herifive of their meeting with more decayed planks, which, I judged, had much better remain in that ftate, than be filled up with green birch, upon a fuppofition that fuch was to be had. All hands were, at prefent, bufily employed in feparate duties, that every thing might be in readinefs for fea, againft the time our carpenters fhould have finifhed their work. We fet apart four men to haul the feine for falmon, which were caught in great abundance, and found to be of an excellent quality. After fup- plying the immediate wants of both fhips, we falted down near a hogfhead a day. The invalids, who were four in number,, were employed in gathering greens, and in cooking for the parties on ihore. Our powder was alfo landed, in order to be drifed; and the fea-horfe blubber, with Which both fhips, in our paffage to the North (as has been before related), had ftored themfelves, was now boiled down for oil, which was become a neceffary article, our candles having long fince been expended. The cooper was fully engaged in his department: and in this manner were both fhips companies employed in Satur. 28. their feveral occupations; till Saturday afternoon, which was given up to all our men, except the carpenters, for the purpofe of wafhing their linen, and getting their clothes fn fome little order, that they might make a decent appearance on Sunday. Sun. 29 In the afternoon of that day, we paid the laft. offices to Captain Clerke. The officers and men of both fhips walked in proceffion to the grave, % whilft !779- Auguft. 3°° THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Whilft the fhips fired minute-guns; and the fervice being ended, the marines fired three vollies. He was interred under a tree, which ftands on rifing ground, in the valley to the«North fide of the harbour, where the hofpitaland ftore houfes are fituated; Captain Gore having judged this fituation moft agreeable to the laft v/ifhes of the deceafed, for the r.eafons above-mentioned ; and the Prieft of Paratounca having pointed out a fpot for his grave, which, he faid, would be as near as he could guefs, in the centre of the new church. This reverend Paftor walked in the proceffion, along with the gentleman who read the fervice ; and all the Ruffians in the garrifon were affembled, and attended with great refpect and folemnity. fin - On the 30th, the different parties returned to jvion their refpective employments, as mentioned in the courfe of the preceding week ; and on the Septemb. 2d of September, the carpenters having fhifted ThurC z, the rotten and damaged planks, and repaired and caulked the fheathing of the larboard bow, proceeded to rip off the fheathing that had been injured by the ice, from the ilarboard fide. Here, again, they difcovered four feet of a plank* in the third ftrake under the wale, fo fhaken, as -to make it neceffary to be replaced. This was accordingly done, and the fheathing repaired on the 3d. In the afternoon of the fame day, we got Friday z. on board fome bailaft, unhung the rudder, and fent it on fhore, the lead of the pintles being found entirely worn away, and a great part of the fheathing rubbed off. As the carpenters of the Refolution were not yet wanted, we got this fet to rights the next day, but finding the rudder Sattsrd. 4, o'ut of all proportion heavy, even heavier than that of the Refolution, we let if remain on fhore, in order to dry and lighten. The fame day, an enfign arrived from Bol- Yol. III. U cheretffe IS! s 290 »779- cheretfk v A VOYAGE TO ith a letter from the Commander to oepter lb- Captain Gore, which we put into the Serjeant's ""^ hands, and, by his affiftance, were made to underftand, that orders had been given about the cattle I and that they might be expected here in a few days; and, moreover, that Captain Shmaleff, the prefent Commander, would himfelf pay us a vifit immediately on the arrival of a floop which was daily expected from Okotzk. The young officer, who brought the letter, was the fon of the Captain Lieutenant Synd, who commanded an expedition on difcovery, between Afia and America, eleven years ago, and refided at this time at Okotzk *. He informed us, that he was fent to receive our directions, and to take care to get us fupplied with whatever our fervice might require ; and that he fhould remain with us, till the Commander was himfelf able to leave Bolcheretfk; after which he was to return, that * See all that is known of his voyage, and a Chart of his difcoveries, in Mr. Coxe's Account of Ruffian Difcoveries betiveen Afia and America. We were not able to learn from the Ruffians in Kamtfchatka, a more perfect account of Synd than we now find i given by Mr. Coxe ; and yet they feemed difpofed to communicate all that they really knew. Major Behm could only inform us, in general, that the expedition had mifcarried as to its object, and that the commander had fallen tinder much blame. It appeared evidently, that he had been on the coaft of America to the Southward of Cape Prince of Wales, between the latitude of 640 and 650 ; and it is moft probable, that his having got too far to the Northward to meet with fea- otters, which the Ruffians, in all their attempts at difcoveries, fsem to have principally in view, and his returning without having made any that promifed commercial advantages, was the caufe of his difgrace, and of the great contempt with which the Ruffians always fpoke of this officer's voyage. The clufter of iflands, placed in Synd's chart, between the latitude of 6i° and 650, is undoubtedly the fame with the ifland called, by Beering, St. Laurence's, and thofe we named Clerke's, Anderfon's, and King's Iflands ; but their proportionate fize, and relative fituation, are exceedingly erroneous. the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. the garrifon there might not be left without an officer. 291 J779- Septemb. On the 5th, the parties that were on fhore re- Sund". 5. turned on board, and were employed in fcrub- bing the (hip's bottom, and getting in eight tons of fhingle ballaft. We alfo got up two of our guns, that had been flowed in the fore-hold, and mounted them on the deck, being now about to vifit nations, our reception amongft whom might a good deal depend on the refpec- tability of our appearance. The Refolution hauled on fhore on the 8th, to Wed. 8.' repair fome damages, which fhe had alfo received among the ice, in her cutwater ; and our carpenters, in their turn, were fent to her affiftance. About this time we began to brew a ftrong decoction of a fpecies of dwarf-pine that grows here in great abundance, thinking that it might hereafter be ufeful in making beer, and that we fhould probably be able to procure fugar orrae- iaffes to ferment with it at Canton. At all events, I was fure it would be ferviceable as a medicine for the fcurvy | and was more particularly defirous of fup^)lying myfelf with as much of it as I could procure, becaufe moft of the preventives we had brpgght out, were either ufed or fpoiled by keeping.. ?By the time we had prepared a hogfhead of it the fhip's copper wasdifcoveredtobe very thin, and cracked in many places. This obliged me to defift, and to give orders, that it fhould be ufed as fparingly, for the future, as poffible. It might, perhaps, be an ufeful precaution for thofe who may hereafter be engaged in long voyages of this kind, either to provide themfelves with a fpare copper, or to fee that the copper ufually furniihed be of the ftrongeft kind. The various extra-fervices, in which it will be found neceffary to employ U 2 them, i- ing driven out to A VOYAGE TO 1779. them, and efpecially the important one of mak- eptemb. jng antifcorbutic decoctions, feem abfolutely to require fome fuch provifion ; and I fliould rather reccfmmend the former on account of the additional quantity of fuel that would be confumed in heating thick coppers. n the morning of the ibth; the boats from both fhips were fent to tow into the harbour a Ruffian galliot from Okot2k. She had been thirty- five days on her paffage, and had been feen from the light-houfe a fortnight ago, beating Up toward the mouth of the bay. At that time, the crew had fent their only boat on fhore for water, of which they now began to be in great want; and the wind frefhening, the boat was loft on its return ; and the galliot, b fea gain; had fuffered exceedingly There were fifty foldiers in her, with their wives and children ; and feVeral other paffengers, befides the crew, which confifled of twenty- five ; fo that they had upward of an hundred fouls on board. A greafoznumber for a veffel of eighty tons ; and that was alfo heavy laden with ftoTes and provifions. Both this galliot, and the floop we faw here in May, are built like the Dutch doggers. Soon after fhe had come to anchor, we received a vifit from a Put-parouchick, or Sub-lieutenasi-t, who was paffenger in the alliot, and^/e^rfi' to take the Command of "this place. Part of the foldiers, we underftood, were alfo defigned to reinforce the garrifon ; and two pieces of fmall cannon were landed, as an additional defence to the town. It fhould feem, from thefe circumftances, that our vifit here had drawn attention of the Ruffian Commanders in Siberia to the defencelefs fituation of the place; and I was told by the honeft Serjeant, with many fignificant fhrugs, that, as we had found our way into it, other nations might do the fame* fome THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ?93 aatur. 11. fome of whom might not be altogether fo wel- »779- ! "' Septemb. come. Next morning the Refolution hauled off from the fhore, having repaired the damages fhe had fuflained by the ice; and, in the courfe of the day, we got from the galliot a fmall quantity of pitch, tar, cordage, and twine ; canvafs was the only thing we afked for, with which their fcanty ftore did not put it into their power to fupply us. We alfo received from her an hundred and forty fkins of flour, amounting to 13,782 pounds Engiifh, after deducting five pounds for the weight of each bag. We had a conftant courfe of dry weather till this day, when there came on a heavy rain, accompanied whh ftrong fqualls of wind, which obliged us to ftrike our yards and topmafts. The 12th, being Sunday, was kept as a day Sund of relt; but the weather unfortunately continuing foul, our men could not derive the advantage from it we wifhed, by gathering the berries that grew in great quantities and varieties on the coaft ; and taking other paflime on fhore. The fame day, Enfign Synd left us to return to Bolcheretfk with the remainder of the foldiers that came in the galliot. He had been our conftant gueft during his flay. Indeed, we could not but confider him, on his father's account, as, in fome meafure, belonging to us, and entitled, as one of the family of difcoverers, to a fhare in our affections. We had hitherto admitted the Serjeant to our tables, in confideration of his being Commander of the place ; and, moreover, becaufe he was a quickfenfibleman, and comprehended betterthan any other the few Ruffian words we had learned. Enfign Synd had very politely fuffered him to enjoy the fame privileges during his flay ; but, on the arrival of the new. Commander from Okotzk, the 13 III 294 A VOYAGE TO 1779. the Serjeant, for fome caufe or other, which we Septemb. could not learn, fell into difgrace, and was no v longer fuffered to fit down in the company of his own officers. It. was in vain to think of making any attempt to obtain an indulgence, which, though it would have been highly agreeable to us, was doubtlefs incompatible with their discipline. Wed. 15. On Wednefday we had finifhed the ftowage of the holds 5 got on board all our wood and water ; and were ready to put to fea at a day's notice. It is however neceffary to obferve, that though every thing was in this degree of readi- nefs on board, the cattle were not yet arrived from Verchnei ; and as frefh provifions were the moil important article of our wants, and in a great meafure neceflary for the health of the men, we could not think of taking our departure without them. We therefore thought this a favourable opportunity (efpecially as there was an appearance of fine weather) of taking fome amufement on fliore, and acquiring a little knowledge of the country. Accordingly, Captain Gore propofed a party of bear-hunting, which we all very readily came into. Frid. 17. We did not fet out on this expedition till Friday the 17th, in order to give a day's reft to the Hofpodin Ivafkin, a new acquaintance, that was to be of our party, and who came down here on Wednefday. This gentleman, who, we underftood, ufually refides at Verchnei, had been defired by Major Behm to attend us on our return to the harbour, in order to be our interpreter ; and the accounts we had heard of him, before his arrival, had excited in us a great curiofity to fee him. He is of a confiderable family in Ruffia. His father was a General in the Emprefs's fervice ; and he himfelf, after having received his education 7 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 295 tion partly in France, and partly in Germany, I7:79\ had been page to the Emprefs Elizabeth, and an , e° emwfr Enfign in her guards. At the age of fixteen he was knowted, had his nofe flit, and was banifhed firft to Siberia and afterward to Kamtfchatka, .where he had now lived thirty-one years. He was a very tall thin man, with a face all over furrowed with deep wrinkles ; and bore, in his whole figure, the ftrongeft marks of old age, though he had fcarcely reached his fifty-fourth year. To our very great difappointment, he had fo totally forgotten both his German and French, as not to be able to fpeak a fentence, nor readily to underftand what was faid to him, in either of thefe languages. We found ourfelves thus unfortunately deprived of what we flattered ourfelves would have turned out a favourable opportunity of getting farther information relative to this country. We had alfo promifed ourfelves much pleafure from the hiftory of this extraordinary man, which he probably would have been induced to relate to ftrangers, who might perhaps be of fome little fervice to him, but who could have no inducement to take advantage, from any thing he might fay, to do him an injury. No one here knew the caufe of his banifhment ; but they took it for granted, . that it muft have been for fomething very atrocious ; particularly, as two or three Commanders of Kamtfchatka have endeavoured to get him recalled, fince the prefent Emprefs's reign ; but far from fucceeding in this, they have not been even able to get the place of his banifhment changed. He told us that, for twenty years, he had not tailed bread, nor had been allowed fubfiftence of any kind whatfoever ; but that, ts during this period, he had lived among the Kamtfchadales, on what his own activity and toil 296 A VOYAGE TO >779- toil in the chace had furnifhed. That afterward ■>eptemb. nc ^^ a fman penfion granted ; and that fince Major Behm came to the command, his fituation had been infinitely mended. The notice that worthy man had taken of him, and his having often invited him to become his gueft, had been the occafion of others following his example; befides which, he had been the means of getting his penfion increafed to one hundred roubles a year; which is the common pay of an Enfign in all parts of the Emprefs's dominions, except in this province, where the pay of all the officers is double. Major Behm told us, that he had obtained permiffion to take him to Okotzk, which was to be the place of his refidence in future ; but that he fhould leave him behind for the prefent, on an idea, that he might, on our return to the bay, be ufeful to us as an interpreter. Having given orders to the Firft Lieutenants of both fhips, to let the rigging have fuch a repair as the fupply of ftores, we had lately received, would permit, we fet out on our hunting party, under the direction of the corporal of the Kamtfchadales, intending, before we began to look for our game, to 'proceed ftraight to the head of Behm's Harbour. It is an inlet on the Weft fide of the bay (which we had named after that officer, from its being a favourite place of his, and having been furveyed by himfelf), and is called by the natives Tareinfka.' In our way toward this harbour, we met the Toion of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, in a canoe, with his wife and two children, and another Kamtfchadale. He had killed two feals upon a round ifland, that lies in the entrance of the harbour, with which, and a great quantity of berries that he had gathered, he was returning home. As the wind had veered to the South Weft* THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 29? Weft, we now changed our route, by his advice -, '779- #nd, inftead of going up the harbour, directed S^f!^J) our courfe to the Northward, toward a pool of*" water that lies near the mouth of the river Paratounca, and which was a known haunt of the. bears. We had fcarce landed, when unfortunately the wind changed to the Eaftward, and a fecond time dettroyed all hopes of coming up with our game; for. the Kamtfchadales af- fured us, that it was in vain to expect to meet with bears, whilft we were to the windward; owing to their being poffeffed of an uncommon acutenefs in fcenting their purfuers, which enabled them, under fuch circumftances, to avoid the danger, whilft it is yet at a very great diftance. We returned therefore to the boat, and paffed the night on the beach, having brought a tent with us for that purpofe; and the next Saturday day, by the advice of our guides, croffed the 18. bay, and went to the head of Rakoweena Harbour. Having here fecured the boats, we proceeded with all our luggage on foot, and, after a walk of five or fix miles, came to the fea-fide, a league to the Northward of the Light-houfe Head. From hence, as far as we could fee toward Ghee- pobnfkoi Nofs, there is a continued narrow border of low level ground adjoining to the fea, which is covered with heath, and produces great abundance of berries, particularly thofe called partridge and crow berries. We were.told, we fhould not fail to meet with a number of bears, feeding upon thefe berries; but that the weather being fhowery, Was unfavourable for us. Accordingly, we directed our courfe along this plain; and though we faw feveral bears at a diftance we could never, with all out management, contrive to get within fhot of them. Our diverfion was therefore changed to ipearing of 298 AVOYAGETO • 779- of falmon, which we faw pufhing, in great Sepremb. numbers, through the furf into a fmall river. "°~v—«f j cou]d not help obferving, how much inferior our Kamtfchadales were at this method of fifhing, to the people at Oonalafhka; nor were their inftruments, although pointed with iron, near fo good for the purpofe, nor to be compared in neatnefs, to thofe of the Americans, though pointed only with bone. On inquiring into the reafon of this inferiority, I was informed by the corporal, who had lived many years amongft the Americans, that formerly the Kamtfchadales made ufe of the fame kind of darts and fpears with the Americans, headed and barbed with bone, and were not lefs dextrous in the management of them than the latter. We could . not underftand one another fufficiently for me to learn the caufe of this change ; probably it was one of the not unufual effects of a forced and imperfect ftate of improvement. It fell out very opportunely, that the water afforded us a little prey ; for befides our ill fuccefs in the chace by land, we had alfo been difappointed in our expectations of fhooting wild fowl, on a fupply of which we had in fome meafure depended for our fubfiftence; and on its failure, began to think that we had been full long abfent from head-quarters. Our Kamtfchadales now difcovered, that the want of fuccefs, in not meeting with game, was owing to the party being too iarge, and to the unavoidable noife that was the confequence of it. We therefore agreed to feparate; Ivafkin, the corporal, and myfelf, forming one party ; Captain Gore, and the reft of the company, the other. Accordingly, after paffing the night under Sund. 19. our tent, we fet out on the morning of the 19th, by different routes, meaning to take a circuit round THE PACIFIC OCEAN. round the country, and meet at Saint Peter and Saint Paul. The party to which I belonged, took the courfe of the river, at the mouth of which we had fifhed for the falmon; and, after being thoroughly foaked by the heavy rains that fell all the morning, we came about three in the afternoon to fome old balagans, where a Kamtfchadale village had been formerly fituated, without meeting with a fingle bear daring the whole of a long and tedious walk. It was our firft intention to have remained here all night, in order to have refumed our chace early the next morning ; but the weather clearing, and at the fame time a frefh breeze fpringing up from a quarter unfavourable to our defigns, the Hofpo- din, whom former fufferings had made very unfit to bear much fatigue, and who feemed, at prefent, more particularly diflreffed from having emptied his fnuff-box, began to be very importunate with us to return home. It was fome time before the old corporal confented, alleging, that we were at a great diftance from the harbour; and that, on account of the bad- nefs of the way, the night would probably overtake us before we reached the end of our journey. At length, however, he yielded to fvafkin's intreaties, and conducted us along the fide of a number of fmall lakes, with which the flat part of this country feems much .to abound. Thefe lakes are from half a mile to two miles in length, and about half a mile broad ; the water is frefh and clear, and they are full of a red coloured fifh, refembling, both in fhape and fize, a fmall falmon ; of which a more particular defcription will be given hereafter. The banks of thefe lakes were covered with the fragments of fifh that the bears had half eaten, and which caufed an intolerable flench. We often came upon the fpots Which the bears had juft left, but were never able even to come within fight of them. It sy? m %cm Sept '9- ;inb. Moss. 20. A VOYAGE TO It was night before we reached the fhips, and we had then been twelve hours upon our legs. Poor Ivafkin found himfelf exceedingly tired and overcome with fatigue; probably, he was. more fenfible of it, for want of a fupply of fnuff | for, every ftep he took, his hand dived mechanically into his pocket, and drew out his huge empty box. We had fcarcely got into the tent, when the weather fet in exceedingly rough and wet. We congratulated ourfelves, that we had not flayed out another day, the Hofpodin'-s box was repleriifhed, and we forgot the fatigues and ill fuccefs of our expedition over a good fupper. 1 was exceedingly forry, on being told the next day, that our friend the ferjeant had undergone corporal punifhment, during our abfence, by command of the old Put-parouchick. None of our people had been able to learn what was the caufe of his difpleafure; but it was imagined to have arifen from fome little jealoufy fubfiit- ing between them on account of the civility which we had fhewn to the former. However, having every reafon to believe, that the offence, whatever it might be, did not call for fo difgrace- ful a chaflifement, we could not help being both forry and much provoked at k, as the terms on which we had lived with him, and the intereit we were known to take in his affairs, made the affront in fome meafure perfonal to ourfelves. For it has not yet been mentioned, that we had confulted with the late worthy Commander, Major Behm, who was alfo his friend, by what means we might be moil likely to fucceed in doing him fome fervice, for the good order he had kept in the oftrog during our flay, and for his readinefs, on all Occafions, to oblige us. The Major advifed a letter of recommendation to the Governor General, which Captain Clerke THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 301 Clerke had accordingly given him, and which, »779- backed with his own reprefentations, he had no SePtemb^ doubt would get the ferjeant advanced a ftep v-""~v—-■■•"- higher in his profeffion. We did not choofe to make any remonftrance on this fubject, till the arrival of Captain Shmaleff. Indeed our inability; from the want of language, to enter into any difcuffion of the bufinefs, made it advifable to come to this determination. However, when the Put-parouchick paid us his next vifit, we could not help teitify- ing our chagrin, by receiving him very coolly. The 22d; being the anniverfary of his Ma- Wed. 22. jefty*s coronation, twenty-one gAins were fired, and the handfomeft feaft our fituation would allow of was prepared, in honour of the day. As we were fitting down to dinner, the arrival of Captain Shmaleff was announced. This was a moft agreeable furprize -, in the firft place, becaufe he arrived fo opportunely to partake of the good fare and feftivity of the occafion ; andj in the next, becaufe, in our laft accounts of him, We were given to underftand, that the effects of a fevere illnefs had made him unequal to the journey. We were glad to find this had been merely an excufe jj that, in fact, he was afhamed of coming empty-handed, knowing we muft be in great want of tea, fugar, 13c. iSc.; and that therefore he had deferred his fetting out, in daily expectation of the floop from Okotfk; but having no tidings of her, and dreading left we fhould fail, without Jais having paid us a vifit; he was determined to fet out, though with nothing better to prefent to us, than apologies for the poverty of Bolcheretfk. At the fame time he acquainted us, that our not having received the fixteen head of black cattle, we had defired might be fent down, was owing to the very heavy rains at Verchnei, which had prevented ■ -,-.■" 3°2 Saturday 25- A VOYAGE TO vented their fetting out. We made the beft anfwer we were able, to fo much politenefs and generofity; and the next day, on coming on board the Refolution, he was faluted with eleven guns. Specimens of all our curiofities were prefented to him ; and Captain Gore added to them a gold watch, and a fowling piece. The next day, he was entertained on board the Difcovery ; and on the 25th, he took leave of us to return to Bolcheretfk. He could not be prevailed on to lengthen his vifit, having fome expectations, as he told us, thatthe Sub- governor General, who was at this time making a tour through all the provinces of the Governor General of Jakutfk, might arrive in the floop that was daily expected from Okotfk. Before his departure, and without any interference of ours, he reinflated the' Serjeant in the command of this place, having determined to take the Put-parouchick along;; with him ; at the fame time, we underftood that he was highly difpleafed with him, on account of the punifhment that had been inflicted on the Serjeant, and for which there did not appear to be the flightefl grounds. Captain Shmaleff's great readinefs to give us every poffible proof of his defire to oblige us, encouraged us to afk a fmall favour, for another of our Kamtfchadale friends, ft was to requite an old foldier, whofe houfe had been, at all times, open to the inferior officers, and who had both them, the crew, a thoufand done good offices. The Captain moft obligingly complied with our requeft, and dubbed him (which was all he wifhed for) a corporal upon the fpot; and ordered him to thank the Engiifh officers for his great promotion. It may not here be improper to obferve, that, in the Ruffian army, the inferior clafs of officers enjoy a degree of preeminence THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 3ui eminence above the private men, with which 1779- r • *. r Septemb. we, in our lervice, are in a great meaiure unac- v_J_v^_* quainted. It was no fmall aftonifhment to us, to fee a Serjeant keep up .all the ftate, and exact ail the refpect, from all beneath him, belonging to a field officer. It may be farther remarked, that there are many more gradations of rank amongft them, than are to be met with in other countries. Between a ferjeant and,a private man, there are not lefs than four intermediate fteps; and I have no doubt, but that the advantages arifing from this fyftem are found to be very confiderable. The falutary effects of little fub- ordinate ranks in our fea-fervice, cannot be queftioned. It gives rife to great emulation, and the fuperior officers are enabled to bellow, on almoft every poffible degree of merit, a reward proportioned to it. . j Having been incidentally led into this fubject, I fhall beg leave to add but one obfervation more, namely, that the difcipline of the Ruffian army, though at this diftance from the feat of government, is of the ftricteft and fevereft kind ; from which even the commiffioned officers are not exempt. The punifhment of the latter for fmall pffences is imprifbnment, and a bread and water diet. An Enfign, a good friend of ours at this place, told us, that for having been concerned in a drunken riot, he was confined in the black hole for three months, and fed upon bread and water; which, he faid, fo fhattered his nerves, that he had never fince had fpirits for a common convivial meeting. I accompanied Captain Shmaleff to the entrance of Awatfka River, and, having bid him farewel, took this opportunity of paying a vifit to the Prieft of Paratounca. On Sunday the 26th, I attended him to church. The congre- Sund.26. gallon O Y A G T O 9- gatiori confifled of his own family, three Kamt-i' *£S^ fchadale men, and three boys, who affifted irt finging part of the fervice ; the whole of which Was performed in a very folemn and edifying manner. The church is of wood, and by far the beft building either in this town, or in that of St. Peter and St. Paul. It is" ornamented with many paintings, particularly with two pictures of St. Peter and St. Paul, prefented by Peering; and which, in the real riehnefs of their drapery, would carry off the prize from the firft of our European performances; for all the principal parts of it are made of thick plate of folid filver, faftened to the canvafs, and fafliioned into' the various foldings of the robes with which the figures were clothed. The next day, 1 fet on foot another hunting party, and put myfelf under the direction of the Clerk of the parifh, who was a celebrated bear- hunten We arrived, by fun-fet, at the fide of one of the larger lakes. The next ftep was to conceal ourfelves as milch as poffible ; and this we were able to do very effectually, among fome long grafs and brufh-wood, that grew clofe to the water's edge. We had not lain long in ambilfh, before we had the pleafure to hear the grow lings of bears in different parts round about us ; and our expectations were foon gratified, by the fight of one of them in the water, which feemed to be fwimming directly to the place where we lay hid. The moon, at this time, gave a confiderable light; and when the animal had advanced about fifteen yards, three of us' fired at it, pretty nearly at the fame time. The beaft immediately turned fhort on one fide, and fet up a noife, which could not properly be called roaring, nor growling, nor yelling, but was-* a mixttate* H E- A I F I C OCEAN. 3° 5 a mixture of'all three, and horrible beyond de- >779- fcripti$n< We plainly faw that it was feverely ^P^"^ .^jpnnded, and that with difficulty it gained the bank, and retreated to fome thick bufhes at a liftfe diftance. It ftill conib$3{sd to make the fame loud and terrjb.le npidfe; and though; the Karn$$jhad#l§$;were perfuaded it was mortally Wjopnded, and could get no farther, yet they i thought it moft a^fvifeable not to roufe it again for the pgeifentj. It was, at this time, paft nine -c£cj[pck; and the night becoming overcaft, and Threatening a change of weather, we thought it moft prudent to return home, and defer the gra- tification of <g$r curiofity til! morning, when we returned, to the fpot, and found the- bear dead iy th^plag§rt(3> which it had been watched. It proved tp be a female, and beyond the com- mon.-fee. Ast^e acQtjrtijnt of our firft hunting party will be a$#- to gjjfe t^jer r,eader a wrong idea of the method in which this fport is ufually conducted ; it may not be arnifis to add a few more words on the fubject; uid which I am the better able tQjdp fince this laft expedition. When the natives come to the ground fre- ,qjjea$fd by the bears, which they contrive to reach about fun-fet, the firft ftep is to look for their tracjj^, to exarnjne which are the frefheft, and the beft fituated with a view to concealment, and taking aim at the beaft, either as he is paf- fing by, or advancing in front, or going from jHfm. Thefe tracks are found in the greateft numbers, leading ffom the woods down to the lakes, and among the long fedgy grafs and . brakes by the edge of the water. The place of ambufeade bj§jng determined upon, the hunters next fix in the ground the crutches, upon which their firelocks are made to reft, pointing them Vol. HI. X in M 306 '779- Septemb. A VOYAGE TO in the direction they mean to make their fhot. This done, they kneel or lie down, as the circumftances of the cover require ; and, with their bear-fpears by their fide, wait for their game. Thefe precautions, which are chiefly taken, in order to make fure of their mark, are, on feveral accounts, highly expedient. For, in the firft place, ammunition is fo dear at Kamtfchatka, that the price of a bear will not pur- chafe more of it than is fufficient to load a mufket four or five times, and what is more material, if the bear be not rendered incapable of purfuit by the firft fhot, the confequences are often fatal. He immediately makes toward the place from whence the noife and fmoke iffue, and attacks his adverfaries with great fury. It is impoffible for them to reload, as the animal is feldom at more than twelve or fifteen yards diftance, when he is fired at \ fo that, if he does not fall, they immediately put themfelves in a pofture to receive him upon their fpears; and their fafety greatly depends on their giving him a mortal flab, as he firft comes upon them. If he parries the thruft (which, by the extraordinary ftrength and agility of their paws, they are often enabled to do), and thereby breaks in upon his adverfaries, the conflict becomes very unequal, and it is well if the life of one of the party alone fuffice to pay the forfeit. There are two feafons of the year'Swhen this diverfion, or occupation, as it may be rather called, is more particularly dangerous : in the fpring, when the bears, firft come forth, after having fubfifted, as is univerfally afferted here, on fucking their paws through the winter | and efpecially if the froft happen to be fevere, and the ice not to be broken up in the lake at that time, by which means they are deprived of their ^©idinary THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 3®7 ordinary and expected food. Under thefe cir- 1779- cumflances, they foon become exceedingly Septemb. famiihed, and fierce and favage in proportion. They will purfue?the natives by the feent; and, as they now prowl about out of their ufual tracks, frequently come upon them unawares ; and when this happens, as the Kamtfchadales have not the fmalieft notion of (hooting flying, nor even at an animal funning, or in any way except with their piece on 'a reft, the bear-hunters often fall a faerifice to their hunger. The other feafon in which it i§*dangerous*fto come in their way, is at the time of their copulation, which is generally about this time of the year. An extraordinary inftance of natural affection in thefe animals hath been already mentioned The chace affords a variety of a fimilar nature^ and not lefs affecting ; many of which were related to me. 7 he Kamtfchadales derive great advantage in hunting, from this .circumftance. They never venture to fire upon a young bear, when the mother is near: for, if the cub drop, fhe becomes enraged to a degree little fhort of madnefs; and if fhe get fight of the enemy, will only quit her revenge with her life. On the contrary, if the dam be fhot, the cubs will not leave her fide, even after fhe has been dead a fong time; but continue about her, fhewing, by a variety^1 of affecting actions and geftures, marks of the deepeft afflicti^i, and thus become an eafy prey to the hunters. Nor is the fagacity of the bears, if the Kamtfchadales are to be credited, lefs extraordinary, or lefs worthy to be remarked, than their natural affection. Of this they have a thoufand flo- ries to relate. I fhall content myfelf with mentioning one inflance, which the natives fpeak of as a well-k nown fact; and that is, the ftratagem X & they L5 Hi 3oS. A VOYAGE O ■ HI *7~9- they have recourfe to, in order to catch the Septemb.^ bare}nSj which are confiderably too fwift of foot ' for them. Thefe animals keep together in large herds; they frequent moftly the low grounds, and love to browfe at the feet of rocks and pre--. cipices. The bear hunts them fry fcent, till he come in fight; when he advances warily, keeping above them, and concealing himfelf amongft the rocks, as he makes his approaches, till he gets immediately over them, and nigh enough for his purpofe. file then begins, to piilfr down, with his paws, pieces of the rock amongft the herd below. This manoeuvre, "is not followed fey any attempt to purfue, until he find he has maimed one of the flock, upon which a courfe immediately enfues, that proves fuccefsful, or otherwife, according to the hurt the barein has received. I cannot conclude this digreffion, without obferving, that the Kamtfchadales very thanfe*. fully acknowledge their obligations to the bears for what little advancement they have hitherto made, either in the fciences or polite arts. -j^They confefs that they owe to them all their fkill both in phyfic and forgery; that by remarking with what herbs thefe animals rub the wounds^ $>#55 have received, and what they have recourfe to when fick and languid, they have become acquainted with moft of the fimples in ufe) among them, either in the way of internal medicine, or external application. But what will appear fomewhat more fingular, is, they acknowledge the bears likewife for their dancing mailers. Indeed, the evidence of one's fenfes puts this out of difpute; for the bear-dance of the Kamtfchadales is an exact counterpart of every atifc* tude and gefture peculiar to this animal, through its various functions ; and this is the foundation and ground-work of all their other dances, and what they value themfelves moft upon. I returned THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 309 I returned to the fhips on the 28th, very well «779- pleafed with my excurfion, as it had afforded ^pt^^ me an oppo^fcanity of feeing a little more of the Tuef. 28. country, and of obfertving the manjftsrs and behaviour of the Kamtfchadales, when freed from that constraint, which $hey evidently lie under in the company of the Ruffians. No occurrence worth mentioning took place 4ail'the 30th, when Captain Gore went to Para- Thur. 30. tounca, to put *ip in the church there an ef- entcheon, prepared by Mr. Webber, with an infcription upon it, fetting forth Captain Clerke's age and rank, and the object of the expediJtion in which he was engaged at the time ofjfais deceafe. Wevalfo affixed to the tree, under which he was buried, a board, with an roferi-ption upon it to the fame effect. Before his departure, Captain Gore left orders itfrith me to get the fhips out of thesXharbour into the bay, to be in readinefs to fail. We were prevented from doing this, by a violent oa gale of wind, which lafted the whole day of the Friday 1. firft of October. However, on the 2d, both Saturd. 2. fhips warped out of the harbour, clea>r of the .narrow paffage, and came to anchor in feven fathoms, a quarter of a mile from the oftrog. The-day before we we*at out of the harbour, the cattle arrived from Verchnei; and that the men might receive the full benefit of this capital and Much-longed-for fupply, by confuming it frefh, Captain Gore carrae to a determination of flaying five or fix days longer. Nor was this time idly employed. The boats, pumps, fails, and rigging, of both fhips, thereby received an radd'rtibnal repair. And Captain Gore, fparing me fome moloffes, and the ufe of the Refolu- itfcsn's copper, I was enabled to brew a fort- Slight ?s beer for the crew, and to rsafce a farther provifion M 3'o A VOYAGE TO Sund provifion of ten puncheons of ftrong fpruce ef- fence. The prefent fupply was the more acceptable, as our laft cafk of fpirits, except a fmall quantity left in. referve for cafes of neceffity, was now ferving out. The 3d was the name day of the Emprefs | . and we could want no inducement to fhew it every poffible refpect. Accordingly Captain Gore invited the Prieft of Paratounca, Ivafkin, and the Serjeant, to dinner ; and an entertainment was alfo provided for the inferior officers of the garrifonis for the two Toions of Paratounca, and St. Peter and St. Paul, and for the other better fort of Kamtfchadale inhabitants. The^eft of the natives, of every defcription, were invited to partake with the fhips companies, who had a pound of good fat beef ferved out to each man; and what remained of our fpirits was made into grog, and divided amongft them. A falute of twenty-one guns was fired at the ufual hour; and the whole was conducted (confidering the part of her dominions it wasrln) in a manner not unworthy fo renowned* and magnificent an Emprefs. On the 5th, we received, from Bolcheretfk, a frefh fupply of tea, fugar, and tobacco. This ,prefent had met Captain Shmaleff on his return, sijld was accompanied by a letter from him,?Jfii; which he informed us, that the floop from Okotfk had arrived during his abfence, and that Madame Shmaleff, who was entirely in our inte- refts, had loft no time in difpatching a courier, with the few prefents, of which our acceptance was requefted. The appearance of foul weather, on the 6th and 7th, prevented our unmooring; but on Friday §. ^ morn|n-g Gf tfoe gf^ we failed out toward the mouth of the bay, and hoifted in all the boats 1 Tuefd. 5. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 3" 1779. Oftober. boats; when the wind, veering to the So^|- ward, flopped our farther progrefs, and obliged us to drop anchor in ten fathoms; the - oftrog bearing due North, half a league diftant. The weather being foggy, and the wind from the fame quarter during the forenoon of the 9th, Satur. 9 we continued in our ftation. At four in the afternoon, we again unmoored -, but whilft we were, with great difficulty, weighing our laft anchor, I was told that the drummer of the marines had left the boat, which had juft returned from the village, and that he was laft feen with a Kamtfchadale woman, to whom his meifma^ knew he had been much attached, and who had often been obferved perfuading him to fia^i^j©* • ~ hind. Though this man had been long ufelefs to us, from a fwelling in his knee, which rendered him lame, yet this made me the more unwilling he fhould be left behind, to become a miferable burthen, both to the Ruffians and himfelf. I therefore got the Terjeant to fend parties of foldiers |a different directions, in fearch of him, whilft fome of our failors went to a well known haunt of his in the neighbourhood, where they found him with his woman. On the return of this party, with our deferter, we weighed, and followed the Refolution out of the bay. Having at length taken our leave of St. Peter and St. Paul, I fhall conclude this chapter with a particular defcription of Awatfka bay, and the coaft adjoining ; not only becaufe (its three inlets included) it conftitutes perhaps the moft extenfive, and fafeft harbour that has yet been difcovered, but becaufe it is the only port in this part of the world, capable of admitting fhips of any confiderable burthen. The term Bay, indeed, 13 3»3 .779. October A VOYAGE TO indeed, is perhaps not applicable, properly fpeaking, to a place fo well fheltered as Awatfka; but then it muft be obferved, that from the loofe, undiitinguifhin'g manner, in which navigators have denominated certain fituations of fea and land, with refpect to each othfeEpfffoays, roads, founds, harbours, &c. we have no defined and determinate Meas affixed to thefe words, fufficient to warrant us in changing a popular name, for one that may appear more proper. The entrance into this bay, is in 520 51' North latitude, and 1580 48'Eaft longitude, and lies in the bight of another exterior bay, formed by Cheepoonfkoi Nofs, to the North, and Cape Gavareea to the South. The former of thefe head-lands bears from the latter North Eaft by North, three quarters Eaft, and is diftant thirty- two leagues.'^ The coaft, from Cape Gavareea to the entrance of Awatfka Bay, takes a direction nearly North, and is eleven leagues in extent. It confifts of a chain of high, ragged cliffs, with detatched rocks frequently lying off them. This coaft, at a diftance, prefents, in 'Ep'any parts, an appearance of bays or inlets, but on a nearer approach, the head-lands were found connected by low ground. Cheepoonfkoi Nofs bears from the entrance of the bay, Eaft North Eaft a quarter Eaft, and is feventeen leagues diftant. On this fide, the ■^^re is low and flat, with hills rifing behind, to a confiderable height. In the latitude of Cape Gavareea^there is an error of twenty-one miles in the Ruffian a^harts; its true latitude being 52° 2i'. This ftriking difference jpf the land on each fide Awatfka Bay, with their different bearings, are the beft guides to fleer for it, in coming fromr$he Southwaiai!: and, in approaching it from the Northward, Cheepoonfkoi Nofs will make THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 3«3 -maTke itfelf very confpicuous ; for it is a high *7?9' !pr©je$Hiig head-land, with a confiderable extejjt,_ ° cr" of level ground, lower than the Nofs, uniting it to the continent. It prefents the fame appearance, whether viewed from the North or South, and will warn the mariner not to be deceived, in imagining Awatfka Bay to lie in the bight, which the coaft forms to the Northward of thisN$fs; and which might be the cafe, from the ftriking refemblance there is between a conical hill within this bight or bay, and one to the South of Awatfka Bay. I have been thus particular, in giving a minute defcription of this coaft, from our own experience of the want of it. For had we been furnifhed with a tolerable account of the form of the coaft, on each fide of Awatfka Bay, we fhould, on our firft arrival upon it, have got Rifely within the bay two days before we did, and thereby have avoided part of the flormy weather, which came on when we were plying off the rtiouth of the harbour. Befides, from the prevalence of fogs, in thefe feas, it muft frequently happen, that an obfervation forafcertain- ing the latitude cannot be got; to which we may add, that the deceptive appearances land makes, when covered with fnow, and when viewed through an hazy atmofphere, both which circumftances prevail here, during the greateft 13 IaJ part of the year, render the knowledge of a variety of difcriminating objects the more neceffary. Should, however, the weather be clear enough to admit a view of the mountains on the coaft in its neighbourhood, thefe will ferve to point out the fituation of Awatfka Bay, with a great deal of precision. For to the South of it are two high mountains ; that which is neareft the bay, 3« + '779- ' October. A VOYAGE TO bay, is fhaped like a fugar-loaf; the other, which is farther inland, does not appear fo high, and is flat at the top. To the North of the bay, are three very conspicuous mountains ; the Weftern- moft is, to appearance, the higheft; the next is the volcano mountain, which may be known from the ftfroke that iffues from its top, and likewife from fome high table-hills connected with it, and ftretching to the Northward : thefe two are fomewhat peaked. The third, and the moft Northerly, might perhaps be more properly called a clufter of mountains, as it prefents to the fight feveral flat tops. When the navigator has got within the Capes, and into the outward bay, a perpendicular headland, with a light-houfe erected upon it, will point out the entrance of the bay of Awatfka to the Northward. To the Eaftward of this headland lie many funken rocks, ftretching into the fea, to the diftance of two or three mileife and which will fhew themfelves, if there be but a moderate lea or fwell. Four miles to the South of the entrance lies a fmall round ifland, very diftinguifhable from being principally compofed1' of high pointed rocks, with one of them ftrik- ingly remarkable, as being much larger, more peaked and perpendicular, than the reft. It is no way neceffary to be equally particular in the defcription of the bay itfelf, as of its approaches and environs ;"iince no words can give the mariner fo perfect an idea of it, as the an. nexed plan. From this it will appear, that the entrance is at firft near three miles wide, and in the narrowefl part one mile and a half, and four miles long, in a North North Weft direction. Within the mouth is a noble bafon of twenty- five miles circuit, with thfe capacious harbours of Tarcinfka to the Weft, of Rakoweena to the Eaft, THE PACIFIC O C E A N. 3»5 Eaft, and the fmall one of St. Peter and St. 1779. Paul, where we lay, to the North. Tarcinfka harbour") is about three miles in breadth, and twelve in length; it ftretches to the Eaft South Eaft, and is feparated fnibi the fea, at the bottom, by a narrow neck of land. The road into this harbour is perfectly free from rocks or fhoals. We had never lefs than feven fathoms water, as far as our furvey extended ; for we were not able to get to the bottom of the harbour on account of the ice. . The harbour of Rakoweena would deferve the preference over the other two, if its entrance were not impeded by a fhoal lying in the middle of the channel ; which, in general, will make it neceffary to warp in, unlefs there be a leading -wind. It is from one mile to half a n^le in width, and three miles long, running at firft in a South Eaft, and afterward in an Eafterly direction. Its depth is from thirteen to three fathoms. " St. Peter and St. Paul's is one of the moft convenient little harbours I ever faw. It wifthold conveniently half a dozen fhips, moored head and flern ; and is fit for giving them any kind of repairs. The South fide is formed *l|g§vi low fandy neck/exceedingly narrow, on which the oftrog is built; and whofe point may almoft be touched by fhips going in ; having three fathoms water clofe in with it$~* In the mid channel, which is no moregthan two hundred and feventy- eight feet acrofs^jihere are fix fathoms and a half | the deepeft water within is feven fathoms; and in every part over a muddy bottom. We found fome inconvenience from the toughnefs of the ground, which conftantly broke the meffen- ger, and gave us a great deal of trouble in get- • ting up the anchors. There is a watering-place at the head of the harbour,, 13 h ne I oa 779- ober. A V C$Y AGE TO 'Tfoe^plam ibfaW likewifeipoittt out the iteal^bat is to be avoided, lytt% off the 'Eaftern harbour, as well as the fpit within the enhance, ftretching ^rofia-^he South Weft fhore ; *atid over which there is only three fathoms water. In order to fteer clear of the latter, a -fmSll ifland, or perhaps it may rather be called a large detached rock, lying on the Weft fhore of the entrance, "isifo be fhut in with the land to the South of it | and, to fleer clear of the former, the Three Needle Rocks; which lie on the Eaft fhore of the entrance near the light-houfe head, are to be kept open with the head-lands (or bluff heads) that rife to the Northward of the firft fmall bay, or beting, obfervable on the Eaft fide of the entrance. When arrived to the North of the North head-land of the Eaftern harbour, the fhoal is paft. In failing into the harbour of !St. Peter and^St. Paul, and approaching the village, it is neceffary to keep in clofe to the Eaftern fhore, in-order'to avoid a fpit, which runs from the head-land to |be South Weft of the town. Before 1 proceed to give a table of the refiult of our aftronomical obfervations at this place, it may be proper to acquaint the Reader, that %be time-'keeper we had on botfr^ the Refolutio®, ^lich was an exact copy*bf that invented by •Mr. Harrifon, and executed by Mr. KkJndsl, popped on the 27th of April, a few days bef&ffe -We'firft came into Awatfka Bay. It had been slways kept with the moft fcrupulous capeduring -the voyage, having never been trufted for a ^moment into any other hands -than thofe d£'Cafp- ■fcartt^bok and mine. No accident could, there- -fore, have happened to it, to which we could ■attribute its flopping ; nor could it have^arfSSi fV&m trfe-eSecTS bf imenfe -cold;, as the flifefmb"- meter was very little below the freezing poiift- THE E A C I E I ■O C E A N. 3<7 As foon as the difcpAfery was made, I confulted l7r7&-: with Captain Clerke, what courfe it was beft to P^ob^' purfue; whether to let it remain as it was, in- tgjfjynBfelefs to us, for the purpofe of fatisfying the e$ripus at home, where it was fure of being e^mined by proper judges, or fuffer it to be. infpe^fced by ;% feaman on board, who had ferved a regUfljfr appren£vceftHp to a watx&maker in ' London; and appeared fufficiently knowing in t^ifei^^fe* from bj& fuccefs in cleaning and ijfjwripg feveral watches fince we had been out. The advantages we had derived from itSnaccu- r^oy made us extreme^; unwilling to be deprived o£$ts ufe during the remaining part of the YQj&gg^Bfgnd that.* obje&^a/pjaeared to us of much greater importance than the fmall degree of probability, whi^h, we underftood was all that e£$ki be expected, of obtaining any material knowledge refpecting its mechanifm, by deferring the inflection of it. At the fame time, it fhould berememberedi-that the watch had already had a- fuffieient trial^bjOitjIft in the former voyage,. -aftdr^Bfing the fljjgge years we had novv had it o®^ ooard to afceftain its utihjry. O^E^efeconfidera- fcpns, we took the opportunity of the firft clear ^ay&.: after our agriv-al in AwatfS&- Bay, of opening the watch, which wf£S done in the Captain's cabin, and in our prefence. The watchmaker fgpn^Tjio part of the work broken ; but, not JafJBg- able- to fet it a-going, he pro'^egded to take off the cock and b^nce, aad cleaned both- the pivot holes, which he found very foul, and the Beft of the work rather dirty ; he alfq took off the dial-plate; and, between two teeth of $h§-awheel that carries the feoond-hand, found a pjgee of dirt which he imagined to be the principal caufe of its flopping. Having afterward put the work together, and oiled it as fparingly as' 3*8 1779- Oftober. A VOYAGE TO as poffible, the watch appeared to go free and well. Having received orders the next day to go to Bolcheretfk, the time-keeper was left in the care of Mr. Bayly to compare it with his watch and clock, in oilter to get its rate. On my return, I was told it had gone for fome days with tolerable regularity, lofing only from fifteen to feventeen fecSnds a-day, when it flopped a fecond time. It was again opened, and the caufe of its flopping appeared to be owing to the man having put fome part of the work badly together when he firft opened it. Being again adjufted, it was found to gain above a minute a day; and, in the attempt to alter the regulator and balance-fpring, he broke the latter. He afterward made a new fpring; but the watch now went fo irregularly, that we made no farther ufe of it. The poor fellow was not lefs chagrined than we were, at our bad fuccefs; which, however, I am convinced was more owing to the miferable tools he was obliged to, work with, and the ftiffnefs his hands had contracted from his ordinary occupation, than to his want of fkill. For the fatisfaction of thofe who may wifh to have a general view of its rate of going, I have added the following table. The firft and fecond columns contain the dates when, and the names of the places where, its rate was obferved. The third column contains the daily error of its rate, fo found from mean time. The fourth column has the longitude of each place, according to the Greenwich rate ; that is, calculated on a fuppofition that the timekeeper had not varied its rate from the time it left Greenwich. But' as we had frequent opportunities of afcertaining the variation of its daily error, or finding its new rate, the fifth column has the longitude according to its laft rate, calculated THE PACIFIC OCEAN. calculated from the true longitude of the place 1779- laft departed from. The fixth is the true longi- Oaober. tude of the place deduced from'aftronomical obfervations made by ourfelves, and compared with thofe made by others, whenever fuch could be obtained. The feventh column fhews the difference between the fourth column and the fixth in fpace; and the eight the fame difference in time. The ninth fhews the number of months and days in which the error, thus determined, had been accumulating. The difference between the fifth and fixth coliimns is found in the tenth, and fhews the error of the timekeeper, according to its rate laft forJnd, in fpace ; and the eleventh, the fame error in time. The twelfth contains the time elapfed in failing from the place where the rate was laft taken, to the place whofe longitude is laft determined. The thirteenth and fourteenth contain the ftate of the air at the time of each obfervation. As perfons, unaccuftomecPto calculations of this fort, may find fome difficulty in comprehending the nature of the flt>le, the two following inftances will more clearly explain it. Thus, on the 24th October, 1776 ("firfl column), at the Cape of Good Hope ("fecond column), we found the daily error in the rate of its going, to be a,",z6 (third column). The longitude of that place calculated on a fuppofi- tion, that the rate of the time-keeper had continued the fame from the time of ov$P "leaving Greenwich, that is, had a regular daily error of i",2i, is found to be 180 26' 30" Eaft (fourth column). And as its rate at Greenwich is, in this inftance, its lateil rate, the longitude thus found is the fame (fifth column). The true longitude of the place is 180 23' 15'' (fixth column). From whence it appears, that, in our run from Greenwich to the Cape, the watch would Y A G E T O would have led us into an error only of 3' 15" (feventh column), or three miles one quarter ; or had varied 13" of time (eighth column), in four months twenty three days (ninth column), the period between our leaving Greenwich and oiu; arrival at the Cape. As the Greenwich is the lateft error, the tenth, eleventh, and twelfth columns will be the fame with the feventh and ninth. But, on the 22d of February, 1777 (firft Queen Charlotte's Sound, New Zealand ("fecond column), the daily error of found to be 2",9i (third column). The longitude of this place, according to the Greenwich rate, is 1750 25' (fougth column). But having found, at the Cape, that it had altered its rate from a daily error of i',2i, to a*,26", the longitude corrected by this new rate is found to be 1740 54' 23" (fifth column). T;b# true longitude of the place being 1740 23' 31" (fixth column) j it appears, that, in our run from Greenwich to New Zealand, the error would have been only t° 1' 29" (feventh column), or fixty-one miles and a half, even if we had not had an opportunity of correcting its,daily error; or, in other words, that the watch had varied 4' 6" (eighth column), in eight months eleven days (ninth column). But the longitude as given by itg new rate, leaves an error of only 30' 54" (tenth column), near thirty-one miles, or, in time, 2' 3",6 (eleventh column); whi-tfc has been accumulating during our rum-^rom the Cape to New Zealand, or in three months, 2 8° (twelfth column)v The thirteenth and' fourteenth coluraois require no explanation. T A & L E THE PACIFIC OC E A N. 321 O O M *n,MaM-t qs t^ 3 w^ oo ' 1 Barometer. „ i(tv'|i,'iiA:*i'.:* £ a X O O O O O OS OS O o OS co c* co ci co co d ci CO CO d ct; o § 1 CO co ^ «« (J> O « O M \0 O a H J3 ^ bo •^ *n /t-* f-'Ji r-» eh r-. Tf- CO r-- X -a S o ffi co ma>^o o « xr> c->. oo H 6 op r>. oo t-cto os as cs \© in ' CO OS oo co -s-^o oo -* ' O co ^ ■* x £3 ~. d « d **■ d — o « * o iovo d CO CO O " \0 OO >«£> d VD O O oo o u-» OS u m co CO t-. Wi GN\0 OO o ■4" *o O S .2 "^ I - o d "*■ ■* O 1 O O CO i-i c* — CO n d § O O O O O o O O o o ik; o m ***£ " t^. u-»oo O O O d ^o oo ■*■ >» P-. <-o *n rt <-» "3* ^ ^* CO *4- |jj CO OO OO d ' *© X O CO fi « <-t d CO <W. & o O w m 0 O 0 O o o o o 4- _4_ ^4. ( _j_ | ■4-1 ! 1 Length of Time. « CO -^- « M « f-* r^. O K m o 1 ^s- C* d d d W — OS *-» d *0 *n f^CO •& o Wt t-N gg o CO U-><Q — CO OO w co -^> CO US *^i WW "t"iO^O ;2 o S 5 S ^ S rj- CO >-< c* *m u-v CO CO > w<2 P o ^t* ^■MnuTowi On"^> ' O OS HUI Tj. »n -Q ■** X o O O O © O O O o o. o O « £ i. »n CT* «o O «* oo eo rt t-^ »0 ws 3 s d •"< CO ut cl CO C4 «0 CO '**** 1 —' £ u c £ *- CO >« c« ts r^-oo d r-H tn d r*. d mviH « H »n !> 5 O' n CO W M 0 O M M M <s s *i- < — + M &4 n 53 t O u-» ** OO CO OO CO .-<$- « OO O o »o m CO IX — W A y| ct d »H | 1 O CO CO M H lf)fl c< >^ r*, w d e* ^ «x in c* wi rt *-i C*> ^*- o o oo ^4- ifl^tOOO CO CO CO H t-» CO CO DO •"• O O CO CJS »n tx w m n t) e« «9 '- d t d >> a) . UJ O O ^O io co O oo -cJ- t? O H3 I - o \o CO vc d d O "Eb 3f V> Ht »-> <J~> CO v-« ^ in ,>4 CO d 0 OO rh «o«> -t OMCO CO CO CO o> t*s MOOco i O O CO on «J-» d - d *#|£l p eg SM O O ^O CO O ^O c« "*■ in «n in o > •S3 S =J c « - o »o C4 d »nc» ur^i w^ coCO OO *^ ^J* d 9m i-t d ■=*• CO io ■aW p m « -^ ^i- « -<i- CO «3- CO oO o o so »^» i^ J) wm O C\ m r1-. * CO O. CO CO OO f i- o co os r*» *—' — " " « rt N n d « d o IX •J3 ►- o* -^i-cb -^ o c* O oo ^O d os *o *j"i r~^ io co wi t: -3 e< 1 d 1 « o" cT « ^ c? m" 1 4-1. || || r-.co 1 i OS 1 . o ,-^A--) /-^\—-~i , , .-^w^-*-* w" 1 O *" "° c * ' ' «j i c | u J3 c a u .9 r i o « ™ ■ ™ -5 w ^! ■*< -S •« „ 2 M o o « « c 1 13 O O 4) U .2 1 Q. O O o) o £ c c o 2 -u o/- ^ < < h o a: D 3-t: Od? co 14 -i M •4 ■*• <r* (S fs *• « tSN vO -«t" d -» s V 3 C>. .... C-—x *- tfi £T-o t- a ^ o.-*-" > '""'S A ^^ ?* ^ O pi *i ►—-»•—>vj O 2i <o fe ^ 19] Vol. ill. Y From 32a .779- Ottober A VOYAGE TO From this view of the time-keeper it appears, that, for near two years, it altered its rate very inconfiderably, and therefore, that its error, according to the Greenwich rate, if we had had no opportunities of correcting it, would have amounted only to 2-^ °. That afterward, at King George's Sound, or Nootka, it was found to have varied exceedingly ; of courfe, the longitude, by its Greenwich rate, was becoming confiderably erroneous. About this time, it fhould be remarked, the thermometer was varying from 6$° to 410. The greateft alteration we ever obferved in the watch was, during the three weeks we were cruizing to the North ; in which interval, it gave the longitude of the Eaft Cape with a difference of twenty-eight miles. I Have marked the longitude of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, as given by the time-keeper, notwithftanding it flopped a few days before we arrived there ; this I was enabled to do, from comparing the longitude it gave the day before it flopped, with that given by Mr. Bayley's watch, and allowing for the error of the latter. The ufe of fo accurate a meafure of time is fufhciently evident, from its fumifhing in itfelf the means of approximating to the longitude at fea, as may be feen in the above table. But, befides this, we were enabled, by the fame means, to give a degree of accuracy to the lunar obfervations^which they cannot otherwife pretend to ; and, at the fame time, by redujekig a number of thofe obfervations to one time, obtain refults approaching ftill nearer the truth. In furveying coafts, and afcertaining the true pofi- tions of capes and head lands, it reaches the utmoft degree of practical exactnefs. On the other hand, it is to be obf^ved, that lunar obfervations, in their turn, are abfolu.tely neceffary, in order to reap the greateft poffit>le advantages from ^^i^^i THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 323 from the time-keeper; fince, by afcertaining the »779- true longitude of places, they difcover the error 0ci0bei of its rate. The original obfervati§fis, that were made in the courfe of this' voyage, have been publifhed by order of the board of longitude, and to thofe I muft refer the freader, for his further information on this fubject. N. B. The obfervatories were placed on the Weft fide of the village of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. Latitude deduced from meridian zenith diftances of the fun, and of five ftars to the South, and five to the North of the zenith - 530 o' 38" North. Longitude deduced from one hundred and forty-fix fets of lunar obfervations - 1580 43' '16" Eaft. Longitude by time-keeper, according to its Greenwich rate - - .:J%§.3° 36' o" Longitude by i§me-keeper, according to its rate fouatj,.!. at Owhyhee - - 1590 20' o" Variation of the compafs, by azimuths taken with three compafles, made by Knight, Gregory, and Martin - Si - - 6° 18' 40" Eaft. Dip of the North pole of the magnetic needle, being a mean of the obfervations taken in June and September - - 630 5' o" It was high water, on the full and change of the moon, at thirty-fix minutes paft four, and Y 2 the IS 324 A VOYAGE TO I779-. the greateft #fe was five feet eight inches. The •tides were vftr^it&gular every fWelve hours. On the coaft, near •'fee bay, the flood came frt&n the South, and the time of Jhigh-water was near two hours fooner than in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint 3?aul. fift&f&t 5is*l irt&iSt* :ll':t>V£8& " SO £-*- V- C H A P THE PACIFIC OCEAN. C HAP. VI. 125 IS m General Account of Kamtfchatka. — Geographical Deff[ipfion. — Rivers.—Soil. — Climate.-— Vol- canos.—Hot Springs. —Productions.—Vegetables* Animals.—Birds.—Fifh. KAMTSCHATKA is the name of a penin-1 1779. fula fituated on the-Eaftern coaft of Afja^Oftobiererunning nearly North and South, from 520 to 6i° North latitude ; the longitude ot]*tis Southern extremity being 1560 45' Eaft. The ifthmus, which joins it to the continent on the NorfiL lies between the Gulf of Olutorfk-and the Gulf of Penfhinfk. Its Southern extremity is Cape Lo- patka, a word ' fignifying. me blade-bone of a man, and is fo called from its fuppofed refemblance to it. The fhape of the whole peninfula is not unlike that of a (hoe, widening from the toe (which we may fuppofe to be Cape Lopatka) toward the middle, and narrowing again toward the heel, the neck of land abovementioned connecting it with the continent. Its greateft breadth is from the mouth of the river Tigil to that of Kamtfchatka, and is computed to be two hundred and thirty-fix miles, from whence it narrows very gradually toward each extremity. It is bounded on the North by the country of the Konacks ; to the South and Eaft, by the North Pacific Ocean j and to the Weft, by the fea of Okotfk. A chain of high mountains ftretches the whole length of the country, from North Jr 3*6 1779- Oftober. A VOYAGE TO North to South, dividing it nearly into two equal parts, from whence a great number of rivers take their rife, and empty themfelves, on each fide, into the Pacific Ocean and the fea of Okotfk. There are three rivers of much greater magnitude than the reft; the Bolchoireka, or great river, fo called from bolchoia, which fignifies great, and-reka, a river ; the river Kamtfchatka, and the Awatfka. The firft empties itfelf into the fea of Okotfk, and is navigable, for the Ruffian galliots, upward of five leagues from its mouth, or within nine miles of Bolcheretfk, a town fituated at the conflux of the Goltfoffka and the Biftpia, which here lofe themfelves in the Bolchoireka. The Biftrai itfelf 'Is no incon- fiderable river. It derives its fource from the fame mountain with the river Kamtfchatka, and, by taking a direct contrary courfe, affords the Kamtfchadales the means of transporting their goods by water, in fmall canoes, almoft acrofs the whole peninfula. The river Kamtfchatka, after maintaining a courfe of near three hundred miles from South to North, winds round totl^!, Eaftward, in which direction it empties itfelf into the ocean, a little to the Southward of Kamt- fohatkoi Nofs. Near the mouth of the Kamtfchatka, to the North Weft, lies the great lake called Nerpitfch, from nerpi, a Kamtfchadale word fignifying a feal, with which this lake abounds. About twenty miles up the river, reckoning from the mouth of the lake, is a fort called Nifhnei Kamtfchatfka oftrog, where the Ruffians have built an hofpital and barracks, and which, we were informed, is become the principal mart in this country. The river Awatfka arifes from the mountains fituated between the Bolchoireka and the Biftrai, and running, from North Weft to South Eaft, a coarfe THE PACIFIC OCEAN. a courfe of one hundred miles, falls into the ! 779- bay of Awatfka. The Tigil is likewife a river of confiderable fize, rifing amidtt fome very high mountains, which lie under the fame parallel with Kamtfchatkoi Nofs, and running, in an even courfe from South Eaft to North Weft, falls into the fea of Okotfk. All the other rivers of this peninfula, which are'almoft infinite in number, are too fmall to deferve a particular enume- ^r-ation. If I may judge of the foil, from what I faw of its vegetable productions, I fhould not hefitate in pronouncing it barren in the extreme. Neither in the neighbourhood of the bay, nor in the country I traverfed on my journey to Bolcheretfk, nor in any of our hunting expeditions, did I ever meet with the fmalleft fpot of ground that refembled what in England is called a good green turf; or that feemed as if it could be turned to any advantage, either in the way of pafturage, or other mode of cultivation. The face of the country in general was thinly covered with ftunted trees, having a bottom of mofs, mixed with low weak heath. The whole bore a more ftriking refemblance to Newfoundland, than to any other part of the world I had ever feen. "It muft however be obferved, that I faw at Paratounca three or four flacks of fweet and very fine looking hay ; and Major Behm informed me, that many parts of the peninfula, particularly the banks of the river Kamtfchatka and the Biftraia, produce grafs of great height and ftrength, which they cut twice in the fummer ; and that the hay is 6f a fuccuient quality, and particularly well adapted to the fattening of cattle. Indeed it fhould appear, from the iize and fatnefs of the thirty-fix head that were fent down to us, from the Verchnei oftrog,and which, we 325 >779- Oaober. I A VOYAGE TO we were told, were bred and fattened; in the neighbourhood, that they muft have had the advantage of both good paftures and meadows. For it hfiiworth our notice, that the firft fupply we received, confifting of twenty, came to us juft at the clofe of the winter, and before the fnow was off the ground, and therefore probably had tafted nothing but hay for the feven preceding months. And this agrees with what is related by Krafcheninicoff, that there is no part of the country equal in fertility to that which borders on the River Kamtfchatka ; and that to the North and South it is much inferior both in point of foil and climate. He relates, that repeated experiments have been made in the culture of oats, barleyjtand rye, in different quarters near this river, which have generally fucceeded ; that, in particular, fome perfons belonging to the convent of Jakutfk, who had fettled in that part of the country, had fown barley there, which had yielded an extraordinary kicreafe; and he has no doubt but that wheat, in many parts, particularly near the fource of the Biftraia and Kamtfchatka, would grow as well as in the generality of countries fituated in the fame latitude. Perhaps the fuperior fertility of the country here fpoken of may, in a great meafure, be accounted for, from its lying in that part of the perflnfiila, which is by much^fj^ wideft, and confequently fartheft removed from the fea, on each fide. The moift chilling fogs, and drizzling weather, which prevail almoft perpetually along the coaft, muft neceffarily render the parts adjacent very unfit for all the purpofes of agriculture. It is natural to fuppofe, that the feverity of the climate muft be in due proportion to the general fterility of the foil, of which it is probably the caufe. The firft time we faw this country was in the beginning of May, 1770, when the whole face of THE PACIFIC OCEAN. S&9 of it was covered with fnow, from fix to eight*'-.% feet deep. On the 6th, we had fnow, wi^ the °a< wind from the North Eaft. On the 8th of May, v at noon, the thermometer ftood at 32°; and, the fame day, fome of our men were fent on fhore to try to cut wood ; but the fnow was ^ftf. fo deep on the ground, as to render all their attempts fruitlefs. Nor was it found practicable to proceed in this neceffary bufinefs, with all the efforts of a very ftout partyi&ftll the 12th, at which time, the thaw began to advance gradually. The fides of the hills were now in fome places free from fnow ; and, by the beginning of June, it was generally melted from the low lands. On the 15th of June, the day we failed out of the harbour, the thermometer had never rifen higher than 580, nor the barometer than 300 04'. The winds blew almoft invariably from the Eaftward during our ftay, and the South Eaft was more prevalent than any other. On our return, the 24th of Auguft, the foliage of the trees, and all other forts of vegeta- tion, feemed to be in the utmoft ftate of perfection. For the remainder of this month, and through September, the weather was very changeable, but in no refpect fevere. The winds, at the begijf|tng of the month, were, for the moft part, Eafterly, after which they got round to the Weft. The greateft height of the thermometer was 6cf, the loweft. 400. The barometer's greateft height 30°-, its loweft 290 3'. So that, upon the whole, during this month, an equal and moderate degree of temper^ire prevailed. But at the begirttjlag of October, the tops of the hills were again covered with new- fallen fnow, the wind continuing Wefterly. In computing the feafons, the fpring ought certainly not to be taken into the account. From the middle of June, to the. middle.of September,. may be properly faid to conftitute the 79--- .ber. A VOYAGE TO the fummer. October may be confidered as an autumnal months from thence, till the middle of June, it is perfect winter. It was toward the end of May that we made our journey, between Bolcheretfk and Awatfka, over the fnow in fledges. . It is faid that the climate, in the country adjoining to the river Kamtfchatka, is not lefs ferene and temperate, than in many parts of Siberia that are under the fame latitude. This variation is probably owing to the fame caufes, to which the fuperior fertility of the foil in thofe parts has been before attributed. But it is not in the fterility of the ground alone that the Kamtfchadales feel the unfavourable temperature of their climate. The uncertainty of the fummer feafon fometimes prevents their laying up a fiifhcient ftock of dried fifh for their winter's provifion, and the moifture of the air caufes worms to'4sreed in them, which not unfrequently deftroy the greateft part. I do not remember that we had either thunder or lightning during our ftay, excepting on the night of the eruption of the volcano ; and, from the account of the inhabitants, they are very feldom troubled with ftorms of this kind, and never but in a flight degree. The general feverity ©f the winter, as well as the dreadful hurricanes of wind and fnow that feafon brings along with it, cannot be queftioned, from the fubterraneous habitations the natives are under a neceflity of retiring to, for warmth and fecurity. that the cold and incle- of 1779 was fuch, that, for feveral weeks, all intercourfe between the inhabitants was intirely flopped, every One being iHi£id to ftir even from one houfe to another, for fear of being froft-bitten. This extraordinary rigour of climate, in fo low a latitude, may us. Major Behm told mency of the winter THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 331 may be accounted for, from its being fituated to »779- the Eaft of an immenfe uncultivated tract 0fPa°ber- country, and from the prevalence of the Wefterly winds, blowing over fo extenfive and cold a continent. The extraordinary violence and impetuofity of the winds, is attributed to the fubterraneous fires, the fulphureous exhalations, and the general volcanic difpofition of the country. This peninfula abounds in volcanos, of which only three have, for fome time paft, been fubject to eruptions.' We have already mentioned that which is fituated in the neighbourhood of Awatfka. Befides this, there are others not lefs. remarkable, according to the account given of them by Krafcheninicoff. The volcano of Tolbatchick is fituated on a neck of ground between the river of Kamtfchatka and Tolbatchick. The mountain, from the fummit of which the eruptions proceed, is of a confiderable height, and terminates in pointed rocks. In the beginning of the year 1739,- there iffued from it a whirlwind of flames, which reduced to afhes the forefts of the neighbouring mountains. This was fucceeded by a cloud of fmoke, which fpread over, and darkened the whole country, till it was diffipated by a fhower of cinders, that covered the -ground to the diftance of thirty miles. Mr. Krafcheninicoff, who was at this time on a journey from Bolchoireka to the Kamtfchatka oftrog, at no great diftance from the mountain, relates, that the eruption ytos preceded by an alarming found in the woods, which he thought the forerunner of fome dreadful ftorm or hurricane, till three shocks of an earthquake, at about a minute's interval each, convinced him of its real caufe; but that he was hindered from approaching nearer the mountain, by A VOYAGE TO by the cinders that fell, and prevented himfronv proceeding on his journey. The third volcano is on stiie top of the mountain of Kamtfchatka, which is mentioned as by far the higheft in the peninfula. A thick fmoke never ceafes to afcend from its fummit, and it has frequent eRiptions, of the moft vsblent and dreadful kind, fome of whksh were much talked of, and feemed to be frefh in the memories of the Kamtfchadales. The country is likewife faid to contain numerous fprings of hot water. The only onjllhat I had an opportunity of feeing was at Natchikin oftrog, and hath been already defcribed. Krafcheninicoff makes mention of feveral others^ and alfo of two very extraordinary pits or wells, at the bottom of which the water is feen to boil as in a caldron, with prodigious force and im- petuofity | at the fame time a dreadful noife iffues out of them, and fo thick a vapour, that" a man cannot be feen through it. Of the trees which fell under our notice; the principal are the birch, the poplar, the alder (with the bark of which they ftain their leather), many fpecies of the willow, but all fmall; and two forts of dwarfifh pines or cedars *. One of thefe grows upon the coaft, creeping along the ground, and feldom exceeds two feet in. height. It was of this fort we made our effence for bees; and found it excellent for the purpofe. The .4jj£$r grows on the mountains, to a grealtiP'- height, and bears a fmall nut or apple. We were told by the old Toion at St. Peter and St. Paul that Beering, during the time he lay in that harbour, firft taught them the ufe of the decoction * Krafcheniflttjiff fays, that the tree here fpoken of, is a dwarf cedar, for that there is noUp pine in the peninfula. Of THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ■333 of thefe pines, and that it had proved a moft '77* excellent remedy for the fcurvy ; but, whether P e' from the great fcarcity of fugar, or from what other caufe, we could not learn, we were forry to find, that it was no longer in ufe amongft them. The birch was by far the moft common tree we faw •, and of this we remarked three forts. Two of them fit for timber, and differing only in the texture and colour of the bark ; the third of a dwarfifh kind. This tree is applierj$0 a great variety of ufes by the inhabitants. -The liquor which, on tapping, it yields in great abundance, they drink without mixture, or any preparation, as we had frequent opportunities of obferving, upon our journey to Bolcheretfk; and found^^r ourfelves, pleafant and refrefhing, but fomewhat purgative. The bark they convert' into veffels, for almoft all their domeftic and kitchen purpofes ; and it is of the wood of this tree the Hedges and canoes are alfo made *. The birch, and every other kind of tree in the neigfiftburhood of the bay, were fmall and ftunted ; and they are obliged to go many miles up into the country, for wood of a proper fize to work into canoes, for the principal timbers of their bdlagans, and the like ufes. Befides the trees above mentioned, Krafcheninicoff relates, that , the larch grows on the banks of the River Kamtfchatka, and of thofe that;fall into it, but no where elfe; and that there are firs in the neighbourhood of the River BerezowlH that there is likewife the is IaJ * KfafcheninicorF fays, that the- natives li$$8infe convert the bark into a pleafant wholefouie food, by ftripping it off whilft it is young and green, and cutting it into Jong narrow ftripes, like "vermicelli, drying it, and Hewing it aftei wa;rd along with their ca<viar. fervice— 334 A VOY.AGE TO 1779- fervice-tree {fadus foliis annuls M,^and two fpecks October. Qe t}ie whitjfethpf'n, one bearing a red, <the other * a black berry. Of the fhrub kind, as junipers,; the mouJla tain-afh, wild rofe-trees, and rafberry-bufhes, the country produces great abundance ; together with a variety of berries; blue-berries of two forttfc round and oval; partridge-berries.; cran-berries ; crow-berries, and black-berrifs. Thefe the nat'ivdi gather at proper feafons, and preferye, by boiling them into a thick jam without fugar. They make no inconfiderable part of their winter provifions, and are ufed as fauce to their dried and fait fifh; of which kind of food tbgy are unqueftionably excellent correctives. They likewife eat them by themfelves, in puddings, and various other ways, and make decoctions of them for their ordinary liquor. We met with feveral wholefome vegetables in a wild ftate, and in great quantities, fuch as wild celery, angelica, chervil, garlic, and onions. -Upon fome few patches of ground in the vallies, we found excellent turnips, and turnip-radifhes. The garden cultivation went no farther •, yet from hence I am led to conclude, that many of the hardy forts of vegetables (fuch at leaft as pufh their roots downward), like carrots, parf- nips, and beet, and perhaps potatoes, would •thrive tolerably well. Major Behm told me, that fome other forts of kitchen vegetables had been tried, but did not anfwer -, that neither any of the cabbage or lettuce kind would ever head; and that peafe and beans fhot up very vigorous ftalks, flowered and podded, but the pods never filled. He likewife told me, that in the expefpBents made by himfelf at Bolcheretfk, with different forts of farinaceous grain, there generally came up a very high and ftrong blade, THE PACIFI but blade, which eared, yielded flour. This fhort account of the vegetable productions reaches to fuch parts of the country only as fell within our notice. In the neighbourhood of the Kamtfchatka River, where (as has been obferved) both the foil and climate is by much the beft in the whole peninfula, garden culture is attended to, and probably with great fuccefs, as appears from our having received at the fame time, with the fecond drove of cattle from Verchnei, a prefent of cucumbers, of very large fine turnips, celery, and fome other garden- fluff, of which I do not recollect the kinds. There are two plants, which, from the great ufe made of them, merit a particular mention and defcription. The firft is called by the natives the farana -, and by botanifts, Lilium Kamt- jkatienfe flore atro rubente *. The ftem is about the thicknefs of that of the tulip, and grows to the height of five inches, is of a purple colour toward the bottom, and green higher up, and hath, growing from it, two tier of leaves of an oval figure, the lower confitting of three leaves, the uppermoft of four, in the form of a crofs : from the top of the ftalk grows a fingle flower, of an exceedingly dark red colour, in fhape refembling the flower of the narciffus, only much fmaller : from the centre of the flower, rifes a ftyle of a triangular form, and obtufe at the end, which is furrounded by fix white Jlamina, whofe extremities are yellow. The root is of the bulbous kind, and refembles, in fhape, that of garlic, being much of the fame fize, but rounder, and having, like that, four or five cloves hanging together. rmelin, p. fpecies of this plant. grows Steller enumerates five different wild A VOYAGE TO wild, and in Confiderable abundance^'the women are employed Jfe collecting the roots at the beginning of Auguft, which are afterward dried in the fun, sfnd then laid up for ufe. On our fecond arrival, this harveft was juft over, and had fallen much fhort of its ufual produce. It is a common obfervation, amongft the Kamtfchadales, that the bounty of Providence never fails thern, for that fuch feafons as are moft hurtful to thef.farana, are always the moft favourable for fifhing; and that, on the contrary, a bad fifhing month is always made up by the exuberance of the farana harveft. It is ufed in cookery'» various ways. When roafted in embers, it fupplies the place of bread, better than any thing the country affords. After being baked in an oven, and pounded, it becomes an excellent fubftitu'te for flour and meal of every fort, and in this form is riftixed in all their foups, and moft of their other difhes. Itisefteemed extremely nourifhinig * has a pleafant bitter tafte, and may be eaten everyday without cloying. We ufed to boil thefe roots, and eat them as potatoes, either alone, or with our meat, and found them very wholefome and pleafant. It has been already mentioned, that this ufeful plant grows alfo at Oonalafhka, where the roots of it are ufed, and conftitute a confiderable part of their food, in like manner as in Kamtfchatka. The other plant alluded to is ca'He.d the fweet grafs -, the botanical defcription is Heracleuin Sibericum foliis pinnatis, foliolis 'aWms, intermediis feffilibus, corollulis uniformibus. Hort. Upfal. 6$. The time, I took particular notice of it, was in May, when it was about a foot and a half high, had much the appearance of fedge, and was covered with a white down, or duft, which looked exceedingly like the hoar-froii hanging upon it, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 337 it, and might be rubbed off: it tafted as fweet »"?7'9- as fugar ; but was hot and pungent. The ftalk ° ,c' is hollow, and confifts of three or four joints; from each of which arife large leaves, and, when at its full growth, is fix feet high. This plant was formerly a principal ingredient in the cookery of moft of the Kamtfchadale difhes ; but fince the Ruffians got poffeffion of the country, it has been almoft intirely appropriated to the purpofe of diftillation. The manner in which it is gathered, prepared, and afterward diftilled, is as follows: having cut fuch ftalks as have leaves growing on them, of a proper age (the principal ftem, by the time the plant has attained its full growth, having become too dry for their purpofe), and fcraped off with fhells the downy fubftance on their furface, they are laid in fmall heaps, till they begin to fweat and fmell. On growing dry again, they put them into facks made of matting ; where, after remaining a few days, they are gradually covered with a fweet faccharine powder, which exudes from the hollow of the ftalk. From thirty-fix pounds of the plant, in this ftate, they obtain no more than a quarter of a pound of powder. The women, whofe province it is to collect and prepare the materials, are obliged to defend their hands with gloves whilft they are fcraping the ftalks, the rind they remove being of fo acrid a quality, as to blifter, and even ulcerate whatever it touches. Thefpirit is drawn from the plant in this ftate by the following procefs. After fteeping bundles of it in hot water, they promote its fermentation in a fmall veffel, by the help of berries of thegimoloft *, or of the golubitfa f, being careful * Lonicera pedunculis bifloris, hacca folitaria, ohlongd, angulofa. f Myrtillus grtmdis caruleus. Vol. HI. Z florihus infundibili formis, Giuel. Plor. Sib. to 33* A VOYAGE TO 1779. to clofe up well the mouth of the veffel, and t& Oaober. keep it In a warm place whilft the fermentation ' is going on, which is generally fo violent as to occafion a confiderable noife, and to agitate the veffel in which it is contained. After drawing off this firft liquor, they pour on more hot water, and make a fecond in the fame manner. They then pour both liquor and herbs into a copper ftill, and draw off the fpirit after the ufual method. The liquor, thus obtained, is of the ftrength of brandy; and is called by the natives raka. Two pood (feventy-two pounds) of the plant yield generally one vedro (twenty-five pints) of raka. Steller fays, that the fpirit diftilled from this plant, unfcraped, is exceedingly prejudicial to the health, and produces the moft fudden and terrible nervous effects. Befides thefe, Krafcheninicoff mentions a variety of other plants, from whence the inhabitants prepare feveral decoctions; and which being mixed with their fifh, make palatable and wholefome ragouts. Such as the kipri *, with which is brewed a pleafant commfi beverage ; and, by boiling this plant and the fweet herb together, in the proportion of one to five of the latter, and fermenting the liquor in the ordinary way, is obtained a ftrong and excellent vinegar. The leaves of it are ufed inftead of tea ; and the pith is dried and mixed in many of their difhes ; the morkovai f, which is very like angelica ; the kotkorica %, the root of which they eat indifferently, green or dried; the ikoum § ; the utchichlei J[, which is much eaten with fifh : with many others. * Epilobium. "T" Cbcerophyllum feminibus Icvibus. % Tradefcanlia fruclu molli edulo. % Biftorta foliis ovatis, oblongis, accuminatis. fl Jacobea foliis cannabis. Steller. It THE PACIFIC OCEAN. It is faid, that the Kamtfchadales (before their acquaintance with fire-arms), poifoned their fpears and arrows with the juice of the root of the zgate * -, and that wounds inflicted by them are equally deftructive to land and marine animals. The Tfchutfki are reported to ufe the fame drug for this purpofe at prefent. I fhall conclude this part of the natural hiftory of Kamtfchatka with an account, from the fame author, of three plants, which furnifh the materials of all their manufactures. The firft is the triticum radice perenni fpiculis binis lanUginofis -f, which grows in abundance along the coaft. Of the ftraw of this grafs they make a ftrong fort of matting, which they ufe not only for their floors, but for facks, bed-cloths, curtains, and a variety of other domeftic purpofes. Of the fame materials they alfo make very neat little bags and bafkets, of different forms, and for various ufes. The plant called bohtnaia, which grows in the marfhes, and refembles cyperoides, is gathered in the autumn, and carded like wool, with a comb made of the bones of the fea-fwa!low ; with this, in lieu of linen and woollen clothes, they fwath their new-born infants, and ufe it for a covering next the fkin whilft they are young. It is alfo made into a kind of wadding, and ufed for the purpofe of giving additional warmth to various parts of their clothing. -There remains ftill a vulgar and well-known plant, which, as it contributes more effectually to their fubfiftence than all the reft put together, muft not be paffed over in filence. This is the nettle; which, as the country produces neither hemp nor flax, fupplies the materials of * Anemonoides et ranunculus. f Gmel. Sib. Tom. i. p. 119. Tab. XXV. Z 2 which 339 "779- October. is la 34° »779- Oftober. A VOYAGE TO* which are made their fifhing-nets ; and without which they could not poffibly fubfift. For this purpofe they cut it down in Auguft; and, after hanging it up in bundles in the fliade, under their halagans, the remainder of the fummer, treat it like hemp. They then fpin it into thread with their fingers, and twift it round a fpindle ; after which they twine feveral threads together, according to the different purpofes for which it may be defigned. Though there is littledoubt but that many parts of this peninfula would admit of fuch cultivation as might contribute confiderably to the comfort of the inhabitants, yet its real riches muft always confift in the number of wild animals it produces ; and no labour can ever be turned to fo good account as what is employed upon their furrieries. The animals, therefore, which fupply thefe, come next to be confidered : and thefe are the common fox ; the float, or ermine; the zibeline, or fable; the ifatis, or arctic fox I the varying hare ; the mountain rat, or earlefs marmot; the weafel; the glutton, or wolverene -, the argali, or wild fheep; rein-deer; bears ; wolves ; dogs. The fox * is the moft general object of the chace ; and they are found in great numbers, and of variety of colours. The moft common is the fame in fpecies with the European, with this variation, that the colours are more bright and.Aiming -, fome are of a dark chefnut, others are ftriped with dark-coloured bars ; others have the belly black, and the reft of the body of a light chefnut. Some again are of a very dark brown -, fome black; others of a Hone colour ; and there are a few quite white ; but thefe laft are very fcarce. Their fur is exceedingly thick * Canis vulpes. and THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 34' and fine, and of a quality much fuperior to thofe '779- either of Siberia or America. A variety of j ° er' artifices arej made ufe of by the hunters to catch this animal, which, in all climates, feems to preferve the fame character of craftinefs and cunning.,,, Traps of different forts, fome calculated to fall upon them, others to catch them by the feet, others by the head, are amongft the moft common ; to which may bemadded, feveral ingenious contrivances for taking them in nets. Poifoned baits are likewife in ufe ; and the nux vomica is the drug principally employed for this purpofe. Before their knowledge of the Ruffians, by which they became acquainted with firearms, they alfo carried bows and arrows to the chace. But fince that period, almoft every Kamtfchadale is provided with a lifle-barrel gun ; and, though far from being dextrous in the ufe of it, its fuperiority over the former inftruments he is ready to acknowledge. The fables * of Kamtfchatka are faid to be confiderably larger than thofe of Siberia, and their fur much thicker and brighter, though not of fo good a black as thofe in the neighbourhood of the Oiekma and the Vitime J, a circumftance which depreciates their value much more than their fuperiority in other refpects enhances it. The fables of the Tigil and Ouka are counted the beft in Kamtfchatka ; and a pair of thefe fometimes fell for thirty roubles (five pounds fterling). The worft are thofe of the Southern extremity. The apparatus of the fable hunters confift of a rifle-barrel gun of an exceedingly fmall bore, a net, and a few bricks : With the firft they flioot them when they fee them on the trees ; the net is to furround the hollow trees in which, * Muftela zibellina. X Rivers emptying themfelves into the Lena, near its fource. when 13 hi A VOYAGE TO when purfued, they take refuge; and the bricks are heated, and put into the cavities, in order to fmoke them out. I muft refer the Reader Jbr an account of the ifatis *, or arctic fox, to Mr. Pennants Arctic Zoology, as I never faw either the animal or the fkin, which I underftand they fet no value upon. The varying hare f is alfo neglected on the fame account. They are in great abundance \ and, as is always the cafe with this fpecies, turn quite white during the winter. Our fhooting parties faw feveral of this colour the beginning of May, but found them fo fhy, that they were not able to get within gun-fhot. The mountain-rat, or earlefs marmot J, is a beautiful little animal, confiderably fmalier than a fquirrel, and, like it, feeds upon roots, berries, the cedar-apple, See. which it eats fitting upon its hind-legs, and holding them up to. its mouth with the paws. Its fkin is much valued by the Kamtfchadales, is both warm and light, and of a bright fhining colour, forming, like the plumage of fome birds, various colours when viewed in different lights. The float, or ermine §, is here held in no eftimation, and, confequently, never engages the attention of the hunters, becaufe, as I have heard, its fur is of an ordinary kind. I faw many of thefe little animals running about; and we bought feveral of their fkins, which were of a bad white, and of a dirty yellow toward the belly. The common weafel j| is alfo neglected, and for the fame reafon. On the contrary, the fkin of the gluttotf. or ■wolverene %, is here in the higheft repute ; info- much, that a Kamtfchadale looks upon himfelf Cams cafopus. Mus citellus. Mvfleijf, nit/alis. -f- Lepus timidus. § Mufiela emiinia. ^J Vrjus lufeus. as THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 343 as moft richly attired, when a fmall quantity of i779- this fur is feen upon him. The women adorn October, their hair with its pats, which are white, and confidered as an extraordinary piece of finery ; and they have a fuperftitious opinion, that the angels are clad with the fkins of thofe animals. It is faid, that this creature is eafily tamed, and taught a number of pleafant tricks *. Having already had occafion to fpeak as fully as my own knowledge enables me of the bears, and the method of killing them, I fhall only here obferve, that all thofe I faw were of a dun brown colour ; that they are generally feen in companies of four or five together; that the time they are moft abroad is during the feafon that the fifh (which is their principal food) are pufhing up from the fea into the rivers, and that they are feldom vifible in the winter months J. Their fkins are exceedingly ufeful. They make both excellent warm matraffes, and coverings for their beds ; comfortable bonnets and gloves, and good collars for the dogs harnels. Their flefh, and particularly the fat, is confidered as great delicacies. The wolves are only feen in the winter; at which feafon they prowl about, as I was told, in large companies, in fearch of prey. * Krafcheninicoff relates, that this fmall animal frequently deftroys deer, and the wild mountain fheep, in the following, way : they fcatter at the bottom of trees bark and mofs, which thofe animals are fond of: and whilft they are picking it up, drop fuddenly upon them, and fattening behind the head, fuck out their eyes. X The Koriacks make ufe of a very fimple method of catching bears. They fufpendvj^tween tne forks of a tree, a running noofe, within which they fatten a bait, which the animal, endeavouring to pull away, is caught fometimes/lby the neck, and fometimes by the paw. There A VOYAGE TO There are rein-deer, both wild and tame, in feveral parts of the peninfula, but none in the neighbourhood of Awatfka. It is fomewhat fingular, that this nation fhould never have ufed the rein-deer for the purpofes of carriage, in the fame manner as their neighbours, both to the North and the Eaftward. Their dogs, indeed, feem fully uifhcient for all the demands of the natives in their prefent ftate; and the breed of Ruffian horfes will, probably, increafe with the future neceffities of the country. But when it is recollected, that the ufe of dogs, in a great meafure, precludes them from the advantage of bringing -up any other domeftic animals, it will appear the more extraordinary, that they fhould not have adopted the fervices of an animal fo much more gentle as well as powerful. The argali, or wild mountain fheep *, an animal, I believe, unknown in Europe (except in Corfica and Sardinia), is here in great plenty. Its fkin is like the deer's, but in gait and general appearance, it partakes more of the goat. It .. two large twifted horns, fometimes weighing, when at full growth, from twenty-five to thirty, pounds, which, in running, it refts upon its back. Thefe creatures are exceedingly nimble and fwift, haunt only the moft craggy and mountainous parts, and make their way among the fteepeft rocks with an agility that is aftonifhing. The natives work their horns into fpoons, and fmall cups and platters $ and have frequently one of a fmaller fize hanging to a belt, which ferves them to drink out of in their unting expedition's. This animal is gregarious. I frequently tafted the flefh of them, and thought it had a very fweet and delicate flavour; but never had an opportunity of feeing one Crap altve. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 34S alive; I muft, therefore, refer the Reader for a 1779- particular defcription of this beautiful animal (for p^°per' fuch it is faid to be), to the Memoirs of the Academy of Peterfburg, Tom. iv. tab. xih» - I have already obferved, that the dogs of ttj$| country are, in fhape and mien, exceedingly like the Pomeranian, with this difference, that they are a great deal larger^ and the hair Somewhat coarfer. They are of a variety of colours ; but the moft general is a light dun, or dirty cream colour. Toward the end of May, they are all turned loofe, and left to provide for themfelves through the fljmmer, being fure to return to their refpective homes when the fnow begins to fall. Their food, in the winter, confifts in- tirely of the head, entrails, and back bones of falmon; which are put afide, and dried for that purpofe; and with this diet they are fed but fparingly. The number of dogs muft needs be very great, fince five are yoked to a fledge, and a fledge carries but one perfon ; fo that, on our journey to Bolcheretfk, we required no fewer than an hundred and thirty-n|he, at the two flages of Karatchin and Natchikin. It is alfo to be remarked, that they never make ufe of bitches for the draft, nor dogs, but thofe that are cut. The whelps are trained to this bufinefs, by being tied to flakes with light leathern thongs, which are made to ftretch, and having their victuals placed at a proper diftance out of their reach; fo that, by conftantly pulling and labouring, in order to come at their food, they acquire both the ftrength of limbs, and the habit of drawing, that are neceffary for their future deftination. The coaft and bays of this country are frequented by almoft every kind of Northern fea- fowl; and amongft the reft are the fea-eagles, but not- ill 34^ 1779- Oauber. 1 A VOYAGE TO not, as at Oonalafhka, in great numbers. The rivers inland (if I may judge from what I faw in ciSr journey to Bolcheretfk), are flored with numerous flocks of wild-ducks of various fpecies; one kind of which, in particular, has a moft beautiful plumage, and* is called, by the natives, a-an-gitche, a word intended to exprefs its cry, which is not lefs fingular than agreeable, confifting of three djlunct notes.1 rifing, at equal intervals, above each other *. There is another fpecies called the mbuhtain- duck m which, Steller fays, is peculiar to Kamtfchatka. The drake is covered with plumage of extraordinary beauty. Befides thefe, we obferved a variety of other water-fowl, which, from their fize, feemed to be of the wild-goofe kind. In the woods through which we paffed, were leen feveral eagles of a prodigious fize; but of what fpecies they were, I cannot pretend to determine. Thefe are faid to be of three different forts; the black eagle, with a white head, tail, and legs J; of which the eaglets are as white as fnow; the white eagle, fo called, thou A, in fact, it is of a fight grey~| and the lead, or flone-coloured eagle §, which is the moft common ; and probably thofe I faw were of this fort. Of the hawk, falcon, and buftard-kind, there are great numbers. * Mr. Steller has made the following fcale of its cry; a - an - gitche - a - an - gnche For a further account of this bird, I muft refer the Reader to Krafcheninicoff, Vol. ii. part 4. ■f Anas pida, capite pulchre fafciato. Steller. J Fako hucocephuius. § Vullur alhiulla. This THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 347 This country likewife affords woodcocks, 1779. fnipes, and two forts of groufe, or moor-game. Oftober. Swans are alfo faid to be in great plenty ; and> *——' in their entertainments, generally to make a part of the repaft, though I do not remember to have feen one on any occafion. The vaft abundance of wild-fowl, with which the country is fiored was manifeft from the * numerous prefents we received from the Toion of St. Peter and St. Paul; and which fometimes confifted of twenty brace. We met with no amphibious fea-animals on the coaft, except feals, with which the bay of Awatfka fwarmed; as they were, at ftis time in purfuit of the falmon that were colleaing in fhoals, and ready to afcend the rivers. Some of them are faid to purfue the fifh into the frefh water, and to be found in moft of the lakes which communicate wit?! the fea. The fea-otters * are exactly the fame with thofe we met with at Nootka Sound, which have been already fully defcribed, and where they are in great plenty. They are alfo faid to have been formerly in equal abundance here; but, fince the Ruffians have opened a trade for their fkins to China, where they are fold at a price much beyond that of any othefkind of fufc they have been hunted almoft inlrely out of the country. Amongft the Kufrle iflands they are ftill caught, though in no great numbers; but are of a fuperior quality is of Kamtfchatka, or the American to thofe coaft. We are informed, that, on Mednoi and Beering's Ifland, fearce a fea-otter is now to be found; though it appears from * Muffela lutris. Muller 34* A VOYAGE TO Muller *, that, in his time, they were exceedingly plentiful. The Ruffian voyagers make mention of a great variety of amphibious fea-animals, which are faid to frequent thefe coafts: the reafon why we faw no other kinds might be, that this was the feafon of their migration. Not having it in my power to treat thefe articles more fully, I conclude them with the lefs regret, fince the ingenious Mr. Pennant, has a work, almoft ready for publication, intitled, Arclic Zoology-, in which the learned will receive full information concerning the animals of this peninfula. This gentleman has very obligingly communicated to me his Catalogue of Arctic Animals, with references to his Work, and per- miffion to infert it. It will be found at the end of this Chapter; and I feel myfelf extremely happy in laying it before the Reader, and thereby prefenting him with what could have been furnifhed from no other quarter, one intire view Of Kamtfchadale zoology. Fifh may be confidered as the ftaple article of food with which Providence hath fupplied the inhabitants of this peninfula; who, in general, muft never expect to draw any confiderable part of their fuftenance either from grain or cattle. It is true, the foil, as has been remarked, affords fome good and nourifhing roots, and every part of the country abounds in berries; but though thefe alone would be infufficient for the fnpport of the people, yet, at the fame time, they are neceffary correctives of the putrefcent quality of their dried fifh. In fhort, fifh may, with much greater juftice, be here called the ftaff of life, than bread is in other countries; * Englith Tranflation, p. 59. fin THE PACIFIC OCEAN. fince it appears, that neither the inhabitants, nor '779- the only domeftic animal they have, the dog, could exift without it. Whales are frequently feen, both in the fea of Okotfk, and on the fide of the Eaftern ocean, and, when caught, are turned to a variety of ufes. Of the fkin they make the foles of their fhoes, and ftraps) and thongs for various other purpofes. The flefh they eat, and the fat is carefully flored, both for kitchen ufe, and for their lamps. The whifkers are found to be the beft materials for fewing together the feams of their canoes; they likewife make nets of them for the larger kind of fifh; and with the under jaw-bones their fledges are fhod. They like- wife work the bones into knives; and formerly the chains with which their dogs are tied, were made of that material, though at prefent iron ones are generally ufed. The inteftines they clean, then blow and dry like bladders, and it is in thefe their oil and greafe is flored ; and of the nerves and veins, which are both ftrong, and flip readily, they make excellent fnares ; fo that there is no part of the whale which here does not find its ufe. From the middle of May, till our departure on the 24th of June, we caught great quantities of excellent flat fifh, trout, and herrings. Upward of three hundred of the former, befides a number of fea-trout, were dragged out at one hawl of the feine, the 15th of May. Thefe flat fifh are firm, and of a good flavour, ftudded upon the back with round prickly knobs, like turbot, and ftreaked with dark brown lines, running from the head toward the tail. About the end of May the firft herring; feafon be gins. They approach in great fhoals but do 35° _'779- October. A VOYAGE TO do not remain long on the coaft. They had intirely left the bay before we failed out of it the firft time, but were beginning to revifit it againjin October. It has been already mentioned, that the herrings were remarkably fine and large, and that we filled a great part of our empty cafks with them. The beginning of June, large quantities of excellent cod were taken; a part of which were likewife falted. We caught too, at different times, numbers of fmall fifh, much refembling a fmelt, and once drew out a wolf-fifh. Notwithftanding this abundance of flat-fifh, cod, and herring, it is on; the falmon fifhery alone that the Kamtfchadales depend for their winter provifions. Of thefe, it is faid, by naturalifts, there are to be found, on this coaft, all the different fpecies that are known to exift, and which the natives formerly characterized by the different months in which they afcend the rivers. They fay too, that though the fhoals of different forts are feen to mount the rivers at the fame time, yet they never mix with each other ■, that they always return to the fame river in which they were bred, but not till the third fummer; that neither the male nor female live to regain the fea; that certain fpecies frequent certain rivers, and are never found in others, though they empty themfelves nearly at the fame place. The firft fhoals of falmon begin to enter the mouth of the Awatfka about the middle of May; and this kind, which is called by the Kamtfchadales Tchavitji, is the largeft and moft valued. Their length is generally about three feet and a half: they are very deep in proportion, and their average weight is from thirty to forty pounds. The tail is not forked, but THE PACIFIC OCEAN. J5« but ftraight. The back is of a dark blue, 1779. fpotted with black; in other refpects they are°^"^- much like our common falmon. They afcend the pver wifti extraordinary velocity, infomuch that the water is fenfibly agitated by their motion; and the Kamtfchadales, who are always on the watch for them about the time they are expected, judge of their approach by this cir- cumftancg, and immediately let drop their nets before them. We were prefented with one of the firft that was caught, and given to underftand that it was the greateft compliment that could be paid us. Krafcheninicoff relates, that formerly the Kamtfchadales made a point of eating the firft fifh they took, with great rejoicings, and a variety of fuperftitious ceremonies; and that after the Ruffians became their mafters, it was for a long time a conftant fubject of quarrel between them, to whom the firft fhould belong. The feafon for fifhing, for this fpecies, lafts from the middle of May till the end of June. gjga| The other fort is of a fmaller kind, weighing only from eight to fixteen pounds; they are known by the general name of the red fifh, and begin to collect in the bays, and at the mouths of the rivers, the beginning of June; from which time, til| the end of September, they are caught in great quantities both upon the Eaftern and Weftern coaft, where any frefh water falls into the fea, and likewife all along the courfe of the rivers, to their very fource. The manner in which they draw their nets within the bay of Awatfka, is as follows: They tie one end of the net to a large ftone at the water's edge, they then pufh off in a canoe about twenty yards in a right line, dropping their t$& as they advance, after which they turn and run out the remainder of the net in 35* AVOYAGETO 1779- in aline parallel to the fhore; in this pofition Oaober. Tney wajl? concealing themfelves very carefully in the boat, and keeping a fharp look-out for the fifh, which always direct their courfe clofe in with the fhore, and whofe approach is announced by a rippling in the water, till they find that the fhoal has advanced beyond the boat, when they fhoot the canoe to fhore in a direct line, and never fail of inclofing their prey. Seldom more than two men are employed to a net, who hawl with facility, in this manner, feines larger than ours, to which we appoint a dozen. We at firft met with very poor fuccefs in our own method of hawling; but after the Kamtfchadales had very kindly put tts in the way, we were not lefs fuccefsful than themfelves. In the rivers, they fhoot one net acrofs, and hawl another down the ftream to it. The lakes that have a communication with the fea, which was the cafe of all thofe that I faw, abound with fifh, that have very much the refemblance of fmall falmon, and are from four to fix pounds weight. I could not underftand that the inhabitants thought it worth their while to fifh for them. As thefe lakes are not deep, they become an eafy prey to the bears and dogs during the fummer; and if I might judge from the quantity of bones to be feen upon the banks, they devour vaft numbers of them. The inhabitants, for the moft part, dry their falmon, and fait very little of it. Each fifh is cut into three pieces, the belly-piece being firft taken off, and afterward a flice alongeach fide the back-bone. The former of thefeTare dried and fmoked, and efteemed the fineft part of the fifh, and fold, when we were at St. Peter's and St. Paul's, at the rate of one hundred for a rouble. The latter are dried in the air, and either THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 353 either eaten whole as bread, or reduced to powder, of which they make pafte and cakes, that are not un- pleafant to the tafte. The head, tail, and bones, are hung up and dried for winter provifion for the dogs. 13 h Lift of the Animals found in Kamtfchatka, communicated by Mr. Pennant * ** Argali, wild fheep, Zool. Vol. Ibex,1 or wild goat ** Rein ** Wolf ** Dog ** Arctic fox ** European fox a. black b. crofs ** Polar bear, in the F fea only ** Bear ** Wolverene * ** Common weal el •* Stoat, or ermine ** Sable Common otter ** Sea otter ** Varying hare Alpine hare ** Earlefs marmot Bobak marmot Water rat Common mouffe - Oeconomic moufe Red moufe Ichelag moufe Fcetid fhrew Vol. III. Ara. I. p. I 2. 16. 22. 38- 40. 42. - 45- - 46. ib. £ Capra a?wnon,L,'m.Sy{i. 97. rozen 55 57- 66. 75- ibid. 79- 86. 88. 94. 97- 113- 115. 1^0. .1 - j Capra ibex Cervus tarandus Canis lupus Cants lagopus Canis mulpes Urfus arSlos Urfus aritos Tfrfits lufcus Muftela nivalis Muftela erminea Muftela zibellina Muftela lutra Muftela lutris Lepus iimidus Mus citellus Mus amphibius 1. Mus mujcu *3 134- 136. 138. 139- A a 90. 59- 59' 69. 7r- 69. 68* 68* 66. 66, "3- 82. 83* Ssrex araneus Wal rus« fl * The quadrupeds and birds mentioned in thii •in this lift with a double afterilk. srt of the voyage are marked ■ 354 A VOYAGE TO ** Walrus. Icy fea - 144- Trichecbus rofinarus 49. ** Common feal - 151- Phoca vitulina - 56. Great feal - 159. Leporine feal - 161. Harp feal - 163. Rubbon feal. Kurile ifles 165. Urfine feal - ibid. Leonine feal - 172. ** Whale-tailed manati 177. There were no domeftic animals in Kamtfchatka, till they were introduced by the Ruffians. The dogs, which feem to be of wolfifh defcent, are aboriginal. Phoca urfina Birds, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 35S % IM ■~s$' 'fi*i-*Ve Birds. In Jill m Land Birds. 1 I. Sea eagle. Vol. II. p. 194. Falco offtfragus 124. ** Cinereous eagle 214. Vultur albiulla 123. ** White-headed eagle -196. Falco leucocepbalus ibid. Crying eagle 215. Of prey 199. Falco halicetus ~ 129. Peregrine falcon 202. 73*- Gofhawk 204. Falco palumbarius 130. II. Eagle Owl 228. Strix bubo l$f< Snowy owl *33- Strix nyStea 132. III. Raven 246. Corvus corax *55- Magpye 147. Corvus pica 157. Nutcracker 252. Corvus caryocataSles i57. IV Cuckoo 266. Cuculus canorus 168. V. Wryneck 267. fynx Torquilla 172. VI. Nuthatch 23 1 Sitta Europea 177 VII. White grous 308. Tetrao lagopus 274. Wood grous 312. Tetrao urogallus 273 VHI.Water ouzel 332- Sturnus cinclus IX. Fieldfare 340- Turdus pilaris 291. Redwing thrufh 34-1- Turdus iliacus 292. Kamtfchatkan 343- (Latham, III. 28.) X. Greenfinch 353- Loxia chloris 304- XI. Golden bunting 367- (Latham, 11. 201.) XII. LeiTerred-headedlinnet 379. (Latham, II. 305) XIII.Dim fly-catcher 390- (Latham, II. 351-) XlV.Sky lark 394- A ,Alauda arvenfis 287. 287 Wood lark 395- B . Alauda arborea iilS XV. White wagtail 396- E Motacilla alba 33*« Yellow wagtail 396- F Motacilla fiava 33*- Tfchutfki wagtail - 397- H . XVI.Yellow wren 4*3- Motacilla trochilus 338' Ryedftart 416. Motacilla phpsnicurus 335- Longbilled 420. A a 2 Staj sazina * The birds which are not defcribed by Linnsus, are referred to the Hiftory of Birds, now publifhing by Mr. Latham, Surgeon, ia Dartford, Kent. Stapazina , 421. Motacilla flapazina 33* Awatfka 422. XVII. Marfli titmoufe - 427. Par us pdluftris 341 XVIII. Chimney fwallow 429. Hi run do ruftica 343 Martin 43°- Mir undo urbica 344 Sand martin, 43°- Hirundo riparia - 344 Caprimulgus Europeus 346. Water "Nj THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 357 Water Fowl. la J Cloven footed fVater Fowl. Great tern No. 448. Sterna hirundo Kamtfchatkan P. 525: A . Black-headed gull No. 455. Larus ridibundus 225. Kittiwake gull No. 456. Larus rififa 224. Ivory gull No. 457. Ar£tic gull No. 459. Tarrock P- 533- D . Larus tridaMylus 224. Red-legged P- 533- E Fulmar petrel No. 464. Procellaria glacialts 213. Stormy petrel No. 464. Procellaria pelagica 212. Kurile petrel P. 536. A. Blue petrel *. Preface Goofandermerganfer No. 465. Mergus merganfer 208. Smew No. 468. Mergus albellus 209. Whittling fwan No. 469. Anas Cygnus ferus 194. A. Great goofe P. 570. Chinefe goofe P. 571. Anas cygnoides 194. B. Snow goofe No. 477. Brent goofe No. 478. Anas bernicla 198. Eider duck No. 480. Anas molliffima 198. Black duck No. 483. Anas fpeSlabilis 195. Velvet duck No. 481. Anas fufta 196, Shoveler No. 485. Anas ilypeata 200. Golden eye No. 486. Anas clangula 201. Harlequin No. 490. Anas hiflrionica 204. Mallard No. 494. Anas bofchas -1 205. ** Weftern No. 497. Pintail No. 500. Anas acuta 202- ** Longtailed No. 501. Anas glacialis 203. Mouillon P. 573- F. Anas glaucion ■201. Shield rake P. 572. D Anas tadorna 195. Tufted p- 573- G . Anas fuligula 207. Falcated P. 574- I. Garganey P. 576. O . Anas qucrquedula 263. Teal P- 577- P. Anas crecia C 204. arvorant * I never faw this, but it is mentioned by Mr. Ellis. I had omitted.it in ray zoologic part. A VOYAGE TO Corvorant No. 509. Pelecanus carvo 216 Violet Corvorant P. 584. B. Red-faced corvorant - P. 584. C. Crane P. 453- A. Ardea grus 334 Curlew P. 462. A. Scolopax arquata 242. Whimbrel P. 462. B. Scolopax' phceopus 243- Common fandpiper No. 388. Tringa hypokucos 250. Gambet No. 394- Tringa gambetta 248. Golden plover No. 399- Charadrius pluvialis 254 Pied oyfter-catcher Noi Hamatopus oflralegus 257, Plain phalarope With pinnated Feet. With webbed Feet. Wandering albatrofs No. 423- Diomedea exulat is 2141, Razor-bill auk. No. 425. Alca tarda 210. Puffin No. 427. Alca ar£lica 211. Antient No. 43°- Pygmy No. 43i- Tufted No. 432. Parroquet No. 433- Crefted No. 434. '■ »-? ' Dufky No. 435- " Foolifh guillemot No. 436. Colymbus troille 220. Black guillemot No. 437- Colymbus grylle 220. Marbled guillemot No. 438.' Imber diver No. 440. Colymbus immer 222 Speckled diver No. 441. Red-throated diver No. 443- Colymbusfeptentr ionalis 220. CHAP. THE PACIFIC OCEAN General Account of Kamtfchatka continued. —Of the Inhabitants.—Origin ef the Kamtfchadales. —Difcovered by the Ruffians.—Abflracl of their Hiftory.—Numbers.—Prefent State.—Of the Ruffian Commerce in Kamtfchatka.-—Of the Kamtfchadale Habitations and Drefs.—Of the Kurile Iflands.—The Koreki.—The Tfchutfki. THE prefent inhabitants of Kamtfchatka «779- are of three forts. The natives, or c Kamtfchadales. The Ruffians and CofTacks: and a mixture of thefe two by marriage. Mr. Steller, who refided fome time in this country, and feems to have taken great pains to gain information on this fubject, is perfuaded, that the true Kamtfchadales are a people of great antiquity, and have for many ages inhabited this peninfula; and that they are originally defcend- ed from the Mungalians, and not either from the Tongufian Tartars, as fome, or the Japanefe, as others have imagined. The principal arguments, by which he fup- ports thefe opinions, are: That there exifts not among them the trace of a tradition of their having migrated from any other country : that they believe themfelves to have been created and A V O Y A G E T O and placed in this very fpot by their God Koutkou : that they are the moft favoured of his creatures; the moft fortunate and happy of beings ; and that their country is fuperior to all others, affording means of gratification far beyond what are any where elfe to be met with : that they have a perfect knowledge of all the plants of the country, their virtues and ufes, which could not be acquired in a fhort time ; that their inftruments and houfehold utenfils differ greatly from thofe of any other nation, and are made with an extraordinary degree of neat- nefs and dexterity, which implies that they are both of their own invention, and have been long in arriving at fo great perfecf ion : that antecedently to the arrival of the Ruffians and Coffacks imong them, they had not the fmalleft knowledge of any people, except the Koreki: that it is but of late they had an intercourfe with the Kuriles, and ftill later (and happened by means of a veffel being fhipwrecked on their coaft) that they knew any thing of the Japanefe; and, laft- that the country was very populous, at the time the Ruffians firft got footing in it. The reafons he alleges for fuppofing them to be originally defcended from the Mungalians are : That many words in their language have terminations fimilar to thofe of the Mungalian Chinefe, fuch as, ong, ing, oing, tching, tcha, tchoing, kfi, kfung, &c.; and moreover, that the fame principle of inflexion or derivation obtains in both languages: that they are in general under-feed, as are the Mungalians: that their complexion, like theirs, is fwarthy: that they have black hair, little beard, the face broad, the nofe fhort and flat, the eyes fmall and funk, the eye-brows thin, the belly pendant, the legs fmall; all which are peculiarities that are to be found among THE PACIFIC OCEAN.' among the Mungalians. From the whole of which he draws this conclufion, that they fled for fafety to this peninfula, from the rapid advances of the Eaftern conquerors j as the Laplanders, the Samoides, 8cc. were compelled to retreat to the extremities of the«North, by the Europeans. The Ruffians having extended their conquefts, and eftablifhed pofts and colonies along that immenfe extent of coaft of the frozen fea, from the Jenefei to the Anadir, appointed commiffa- ries for the purpofe of exploring and fubjecfing the countries ftill farther Eaftward. They foon became acquainted with the wandering Koriacs inhabiting the North and North Eaft coaft of the fea of Okotfk, and without difficulty made them tributary. Thefe being the immediate neighbours of the Kamtfchadales, and likewife in the habits of bartering with them, a knowledge of Kamtfchatka followed of courfe. The honour of the firfl difcovery is given to Feodot Alexeieff, a merchant, who is faid to have failed from the river Kovyma, round the peninfula of the Tfchutfki, in company with feven other veffels, about the year 1648. The tradition goes, that being feparated from the reft by a ftorm, near the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, he was driven upon the coaft of Kamtfchatka, where he wintered ; and the fummer following coafted round the promontory of Lopatka, into the fea of Okotfk, and entered the mouth of the Tigil; but that he and his companions were cut off by the Koriacs, in endeavouring to pafs from thence by land to the Anadirfk. This, in part, is corroborated by the accounts of Simeon Defhneff, who commanded one of the feven veffels, and was thrown on fhore at the mouth of the Anadir. Be this as it may, fince thefe difcoveries, if fuch 361 1779. Odtober. A VOYAGE TO fuch they were, did not live to make any report of what they had done, Volodimir AtlaffofF, a Coffack, ftands for the firft acknowledged dif- coverer of Kamtfchatka *. This perfon was fent, in the year 1697, from the fort Jakutfk to -the Anadirfk, in the quality of commiffary, with inftructions to call in the affiftance of the Koriacs, with a view to the difcovery of countries beyond theirs, and to the fubjecling them to a tribute. In 1699, he penetrated, with about fixty Ruffian foldiers, and the fame number of Coffacks, into the heart of the peninfula, gained the Tigil, and from thence levying a tribute in furs, in his progrefs crofted over to the River Kamtfchatka, on which he built the higher Kamtfchatka oftrog, called Verchnei, where he left a garrifon of fixteen Coffacks, and returned to Jakutfk in 1700, with an immenfe quantity of rare and valuable tributary furs. Thefe he had the good fenfe and policy to accompany to Mofcow, and, in recompence for his fervices, was appointed Commander of the fort of Jakutfk, with farther orders to repair again to Kamtfchatka, having firft drawn from the garrifon at Tobolfk a reinforcement of a hundred Coffacks, with ammunition, and whatever elfe could give efficacy to the completion and fettlement of his late difcoveries. Advancing with this force toward the Anadirfk, he fell in with a bark on the River % Tungufka, laden with Chinefe merchandize, which he pil- * It is proper to remark, that AtlaffofF fent an advanced party, under the command of a fubaltern, called Lucas MolofkofF, who certainly penetrated into Kamtr- fchatka, and returned with an account of his fuccefs, before AtlaffofF fet out, and is therefore not unjuftly mentioned as the Difcoverer of Kamtfchatka. % This River empties itfelf into the Jenefei. laged j THE PACIFIC OCEAN. laged i and in confequence of a remonftrance from the fufferers to the Ruffian court, he was feized upon at Jakutfk, and thrown into prifon. In the mean time, Potop Serioukoff, who had been left by Atlaffoff, kept peaceable poffeffion or*the garrifon of Verchnei ; and though he had not a fufficient force to compel the payment of a tribute from the natives, yet by his management, and conciliating difpofition, he continued to carry on an advantageous traffic with them as a merchant. On his return to the Anadirfk, with the general good-will of the natives of Kamtfchatka, himfelf and party were attacked by the Koriacs, and unfortunately all cut off. This happened about 1703 ; and feveral other fucceffive comrnifTaries were fent into Kamtfchatka, with various fuccefs, during the difgrace and trial of Atlalfoff. In 1706, Atlaffoff was reinftated in,his command, and appointed to conduct a fecond expedition into Kamtfchatka, with inftructions to gain upon the natives by all peaceable means, but on no pretence to have recourfe to force and compulfion : but, inftead of attending to his orders, he not only, by repeated acts of cruelty and injuftice, made the natives exceedingly hoftile and averfe to their new governors, but likewife fo far alienated the affections of his own people, that it ended in a mutiny of the Coffacks, and their demand of another commander. The Coffacks having carried their point, in displacing Atlaffoff, feized upon his effects; and, after once tafting the fweets of plunder, and of living without difcipline or controul, in vain did his fucceffors attempt to reduce them to military difcipline and fubjection. Three fucceffive commanders were affaffinated in their turn ; and the Coffacks, being thus in open rebellion to the 3&3 1779. October. 1mk^'-w .u< 13 *779- October. A VOYAGE TO the Ruffian government, and with -arms in their hands, were let loofe upon the natives. The hiftory of this country from that period, till the grand revolt of the Kamtfchadales in 1731, prefents one unvaried detftll of maffacres, revolts, and favage and fanguinary rencounters between fmall parties, from one end of the peninfula to the other. What led to this revolt, was the difcovery of a paffage from Okotfk to trie Bolchoireka, which was firft made by Cofmo Sokoloff, in the year 1715. Hitherto the Ruffians had no entrance into the country, but on the fide of Anadirfk ; fo that the natives had frequent opportunities of both plundering the tribute, as it was carried by fo long a journey out of the peninfula, and haraffing the troops in their march into it. But by the difcovery of this communication, there exifted a fafe and fpeedy means, as well of exporting the tribute, as of importing troops and military ftores into the very heart of the country ; which the natives eafily faw gave the Ruffians fo great an .advantage, as muft foon confirm their dominion, and therefore determined them to make one grand and immediate ftruggle for their liberty. The moment refolved upon, for carrying their defigns into execution, was when Beering fhould have fet fail, who was at this time on the coaft with a fmall fquadron, and had difpatched all the troops that could well be fpared from the country, to join Powloutfki, in an expedition againft the Tfchutfki. The opportunity was well chofen ; and it is altogether furprizing, that this confpiracy, which was fo general, that every native in the peninfula is faid to have had his fhare in it, was at the fame time conducted with fuch fecrecy, that the Ruffians had not the fmalleft fufpicion that any thing THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 365 thing hoftile to their interefts was in agitation. 1779. Their other meafures were equally well taken. ^ao They had a ftrong body in readinefs to cut off all communication with the fort Anadirfk; and the Eaftern coaft was likewife lined with detached parties, with a view of feizing on any Ruffians that might by accident arrive from Okotfk. Things were in this ftate, when the comrJaiffary Cheekaerdin marched from Verchnei with his tribute, efcorted by the troops of the fort, for the mouth of the Kamtfchatka River, where a veffel was lying to convey them to the Anadir. Befides waiting for the departure of Beering, the revolt was to be fufpended till this veffel fhould be out at fea, notice of which was to be" given to the different Chiefs. Accordingly, the moment fhe was out of fight, they began to maffacre every Ruffian and Cof- fack that came in their way, and to fet fire to their houfes. A large body afcended the River Kamtfchatka, made themfelves mafters of the fort and oftrog the commiffary had juft quitted, put to death all that were in it, and, except the church and the fort, reduced the whole to afhes. Here it was that they firft learned that the Ruffian veffel, in which the commiffary had embarked, was ftill on the coaft, which determined them to defend themfelves in the fort. The wind fortunately foon brought the veffel back to the harbour ; for had fhe proceeded in her voyage, nothing probably could have prevented the utter extirpation of the Ruffians. The Coffacks finding, on their landing, that their houfes had been burnt to the ground, and their wives and children either maffacred or carried off prifoners, were enraged to madnefs. They marched directly to the fort, which they attacked with great fairyland the natives as refolutely defended, till 13 IaJ ri^r! 366 A VOYAGE TO 1779. ,at length the powder-magazine taking fire, the Oaober. fort was blown up, together with moft of thofe that were in it. Various rencounters fucceeded to this event, in which much blood was fpilled on both fides : At length, two of the principal leaders being flain, and the third (after difpatch- ing his wife and children, to prevent their falling into the enemy's hand) having put an end to himfelf, peace was eftablifhed. From that period every thing went on very peaceably, till the year 1740, when a few Ruffians loft their lives in a tumult which was attended with no farther confequences ; and, except the infurrection at Bolcheretfk in 1770 (which hath been already noticed), there has been no difturbance fince. Though the quelling the rebellion of 1731 was attended with the lofs of a great number of inhabitants, yet I was informed, that the country had recovered itfelf, and was become more populous than ever, when, in the year 1767, the fmall-pox, brought by a foldierfrom Okotfk, broke out among them for the firft time, marking its progrefs with ravages not lefs dreadful than the plague, and feeming to threaten their entire extirpation. They compute, that near twenty thoufand died of this diforder in Kamtfchatka, the Koreki country, and the "Kurile Iflands. The inhabitants of whole villages were fwept away. Of this we had fufficient proofs before i/rV, our eyes. There are no lefs than eight ojtrogs fcattered about the bay of Awatfka, all which, we were informed, had been fully inhabited, but are now entirely defolate, except St. Peter and St. Paul; and even that contains no more than feven Kamtfchadales, who are tributary. At Paratounca oftrog there are but thirty- fix native inhabitants, men, women, and children, which, ^1 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 3«7 which, before it was vifited by the fmall-pox, 1779. we were told, contained three hundred and fixty. Oaober. In our road to Bolcheretfk, we paffed four extenfive qftrogs, with not an inhabitant in them. In the prefent diminifhed ftate of the natives, with frefh fupplies of Ruffians and Coffacks perpetually pouring in, and who intermix with them by marriage, it is probable, that in lefs than" half a century there will be very few of them left. By Major Behrn's account, there are not now more than three thoufand who pay tribute, the Kurile iflanders included. I underftood that there are at this time, of the military, in the five forts of Nicbnei, Verchnei, Tigil, Bolcheretfk, and St. Peter and St. Paul, about four hundred Ruffians and Coffacks, and near the fame number at Ingiga, which, though to the North of the .peninfula, is, I learned, at prefent under the -Commander of Kamtfchatka ; to thefe may be added the Ruffian traders and emigrants, whofe numbers are not very confiderable. The Ruffian government, eftablifhed over this country, is mild and equitable, confidered as a military one, in a very high degree. The natives are permitted to choofe their own magi- ftrates from among themfelves, in the way, and with the fame powers they had ever been ufed. One of thefe, under the title of Toion, prefides over each oftrog -, is the referree in all differences 5 impofes fines, and inflicts punifhments for all crimes and mifdemeanors -, referring to the governor of Kamtfchatka fuch onlv as he does not choofe, from their intricacy or heinoufnefe, to decide upon himfelf. The Toion has likewife the appointment of a civil officer, called a Corporal, who affifts him in the execution of his office,, and in his abfence acts as his deputy. By 13 hi A VOYAGE TO 1779. October. By an edict of the prefent Emprefs, no crime whatfoever can be punifhed with death. But we were informed, that in cafes of murder j^f which there are very few),, the punifhment of the knout is adminiftered with fuch feverity, that the offender, for the f^gll part, dies under it. The only tribute exacted (which can be confidered as little more than an acknowledgment of the Ruffian dominion over them) confifts, in fome diftricts, of a fox's fkin, in others of jfk, fable's, and in the Kurile ifles of a fea otter's ; but as this is much the moft valuable, one fkin ferves to pay the tribute of feveral perfons. The Toions collect the tribute in their refpeclive diftricts. Befidfs the mildnefs of t^eir government, the Ruffians have a claim to every praife for the pains they have beftowed, and which have been attended with great fuccefs, in converting them to Chriftianity, there remaining, at prefent, very few idolaters among them. If we may judge of the other miflionaries, from the hofpitable and benevolent paftor of Paratounca (who is a native on the mother's fide), more fuitable perfons could not be fet over this bufinefs. It is needlefs to add, that the religion taught is that of the Greek church. Schools are likewife eftablifhed in many of the oftrogs, where the children of both the natives and Coffacks are gratuitoufly inftructed in the Ruffian language. The commerce of this country, as far as concerns the exports, is intirely confined to furs, and carried on principally by a company of merchants, inftituted by the prefent Emprefs. This company originally confifled of twelve, and three have been lately added to it. They are indulged with certain privileges and diftinguifhed by wearing a golden medal, as a mark of the Emprefs's HE PACIFIC OC A 369 Emprefs's encouragement and protection of the fur trade. Befides thefe, there are many inferior traders (particularly of the Coffacks) fcattered through the country. The principal merchants, for the time they are here, refide at Bolcheretfk, or the Nifhnei oftrog, in which two places the trade almoft wholly centers. Formerly this commerce was altogether carried on in the way of barter, but of late years every article is bought and fold for ready money only; and we were furprized at the quantity of fpecie in circulation in fo poor a country. The furs fell at a high price, and the fituation and habits of life of the natives call for few articles in return. Our failors brought a great number of furs with them from the coaft of America, and were not lefs aftoniihed than delighted with - the quantity of filver the merchants paid down for them ; but on finding neither gin" (hops to refort to, nor tobacco, or any thing elfe that they cared for, to be had for money, the roubles foon became troublefome companions, and I often obferved them kicking them about the deck. The merchant I have already had occafion to mention, gave our men at firft thirty roubles for a fea-otter's fkin, and for others in proportion ; but finding that they had confiderable quantities to difpofe of, and that he had men to deal with who did not know how to keep up the market, he afterward bought them for much lefs. . The articles of importation are principally European, but not confined to Ruffian manufactures ; many are Engiifh and Dutch •, feveral likewife come from Siberia,. Bucharia, the Cal- mucks, and China. They confift of coarfe woollen and linen clothes, yarn ftockings, bonnets, and gloves ; thin Perfian filks; cottons, and pieces of nankeen, filk and cotton handkerchiefs; brafs coppers and pans, iron ftoves, files,' guns. 13 laj Vol. III. B powdei -37o 1779- Oftober A VOYAGE TO powder and fhot; hardware, fuch as hatchets', bills, knives, fciffars, needles, looking-glaffes ; flour, fugar; tanned hides, boots, &c. We had an opportunity of feeing a great many of thefe articles in the hands of a merchant,who came in the Emprefs's galliot Jprom Okotfk ; and I fhall only obferve generally, that they fold for treble the price they might have been purchafed for in (England. And though the merchants have fo |large a profit upon thefe imported goods, they I ha,ve a ftill larger upon the furs at Kiachta, upon | the frontiers of China, which is the great marJ^-' -S them. The beft fea-otter fkins fell generally j in ■Kamtfchatka, for about thirty roubles apiece. The Chinele merchant at Kiachta purchafes them at more than double that price, and fells them again at Pekin at a great advance, where a farther profitable trade is made with fome of them to Japan. If, therefore, a fkin is ^>rth thirty roubles in Kamtfchatka, to be tranfported firft to Okotfk, thence to be conveyed by land to Kiachta, a diftance of one thoufand three hundred and fixty-four miles, thence on to Pekin, feven hundred and fixty miles more, and after this to be tranfjgorted to Japan, what a prodigi- onfly advantageous trade might be carried on between this place and Japan, which is but about a fortnight's, at moft three weeks, fail from it ? All furs exported from hence acroj# the fea of Okotfk, pay a duty of ten per cent, and fables a duty of twelve. And all forts of merchandize, of whatever denomination, imported from Okotfk, pay half a rouble for every pood *. Thirty-fix pounds Engiifh. The -J THE PACIFIC OCEA& 37! The duties arifing from the exports and im- I779-, ports, of.which I could not learn the amount® >bc are paid at Okotfk : but the tribute is collected at Bolcheretfk ; and, I was informed by Major Behm, amounted in value to ten thoufand roubles annually. There are fix veffels (of forty to fifty tons burthen) employed by the Emprefs between Okotfk and Bolcheretfk; five of which are appropriated to-the tranfporting of ftores and provifions from Okotfk to Bolcheretfk; except that once in two or three years, fome of them go round to Awatfka, and the Kamtfchatka River % the fixth is only ufed as a packet boat, and always kept in readinefs, and properly equipped for conveying difpatches. Befides thefe, there are about fourteen veffels employed bv the merchants in the fur trade, amongft the iflands to the Eaftward. One of thefe we found frozen up in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, which was to fail on a trading voyage to Oonalafhka,- asfoori as the feafon would permit. It is here to be obferved, that the moft confiderable and valuable part of the fur-trade is carried on with the iflands that lie between Kamtfchatka and America. Thefe were firft difcovered by Beering, in 1741, and being found to abound with fea-otters, the Ruffian merchants became exceedingly eager in fearching for the other iflands feen by that navigator, to the South Eaft of Kamtfchatka, called, in Muller's Map, the Iflands of Seduction* St. Abraham, &c. In thefe expeditions ifiey fell in with three groups of iflands. The firft about fifteen degrees to the Eaft of Kamtfchatka, iri 5%° North latitude ; the fecond about twelve degrees to the Eaftward of the former; and the third, Oonalafhka, and the iflands in its neighbourhood. Thefe trading adventurers advanced 13 2ai Bb2 alfo' A G E T O alfo as far Eaft as Shumagin's Iflands (fo called by Beering), the largeft of which is named Kodiak. But here, as well as on the continent at Alafka, they met with fo warm a reception in their attempts to compel the payment of a tribute, that they never afterward ventured fo far. However they conquered and made tributary the three groups before mentioned. In the Ruffian charts, the whole fea between Kamtfchatka and America is covered with iflands -, for the adventurers in thefe expeditions frequently falling in with land, which they imagined did not agree with the fituation of other laid down by preceding voyagers, immediately concluded it muft be a new difcovery, and reported it as fuch on their return ; and fince the veffels employed in thefe expeditions wereufually out three or four years, and oftentimes longer, thefe miftakes were not in the way of being foon rectified. It is however now pretty certain, that the iflands already enumerated are all that have yet been difcovered, by the Ruffians, in that fea, to the Southward of 6o° of latitude. It is from thefe iflands that the fea-otter fkins, the moft valuable article of the fur trade, are for the moft part drawn ; and as they are brought completely under the Ruffian dominion, the merchants have fettlements upon them, where their factors refide, for the purpofe of bartering with the natives. It was with a view to the farther increafe and extenfion of this trade, that the Admiralty of Okotfk fitted out an expedition for the purpofe of making dilcoveries to the North and North Eaft of the iflands above mentioned, and gave the command of it,, as I have already obferved, to Lieutenant Synd. This gentleman, having directed his courfe too far m THE P A 8.1 F I C OCEAN. 373 to the Northward, failed in the object of his *779- voyage ; for, as we never faw the fea-otter to . ' ! the Northward of Briftol Bay, it feems probable, that they fhun thofe latitudes where the larger kind of amphibious fea animals abound. This was the laft expedition undertaken by the Ruffians for profecuting difcoveries to the Eaftward ; but they will undoubtedly make a proper ufe of the advantages we have opened to them, by the difcovery of Cook's river. Notwithftanding the general intercourfe that, for the laft forty years, hath taken place between the natives, the Ruffians, and Coffacks, the former are not more diftinguifhed from the latter by their features and general figure, than by their habits and eaft of mind. Of the perfons of the natives, a defcription hath been already given, and I fhall only add, that their ftature is much below the common fize. This Major Behm attributes, in a great meafure, to their marrying fo early; both fexes generally entering into the conjugal ftate at the age of thirteen or fourteen. Their induftry is abundantly confpicu- ous, without being contrafted with the lazinefs of their Ruffian and Coffack inmates, who are fond of intermarrying with them, and, as it fhould feem, for no other reafon, but that they may be fupported in floth and inactivity. To this want of bodily exertion may be attributed thofe dreadful fcorbutic complaints which none of them efcape ; whilft the natives, by conftant ex- ercife and toil in the open air, are entirely free from them. Referring the reader for an account of the manners, cuftoms, and fuperftitions of the Kamtfchadales at the time the Ruffians became firft acquainted with this country, to Krafcheninicoff, I fhall is Id - I 374 VOYAGE TO il 1779. I fhall proceed to a defcription of their habitations Qdober. and drefs. The houfes (if they may be allowed that name) are of three diftiflet forts, jourts, balagans, and loghoufes, called here ifbas. The firft are :fnjeir winter, fecond their fummer habitations \ the third are altogether of Ruffian introduction, and inhabited only by the better and wealthier fort. The jourts, or winter habitations, are con- ftructed1 in the following manner : An oblong fquare, of dimenfions proportioned to the number of perfdfe for whom it is intended (foritM proper to obferve, that feveral fa&ilies live together, in the fame jourt) is dug in the earth to the depth of about fix feet. Within this fpace, ftrong pofts, or wooden pillars, are faftened in the ground, at proper diftances from each other, Wi which are extended the beams for the fup- port of the roof, which is formed by joifts, reft- ing ||i the ground with one end, and on the bearrjg with the other. The interftices between the joifts are rilled up with a ftrong wicker-work, and the whole covered with turf; fo that ajourP has externally the appearance of a round fquat hillock. A hole is left in the center, which JSfves for chimney, window, and entrancei* and the inhabitants pafs in and out by means of a ftrong pole (inftead of a ladder) noljehed juft deepebpugh to afford a littfe holding to the toe. There is likewife another entrance in the fide, even with the ground, for the convenience of the women ; but if a man makes ufe of it, he fubjects himfelf to the fame difgrace and deri- lion, as a failor would, who defcends through lubbers hole. The jourt confifts of one apartment, of the for|in of an oblong fquare. Mong the fides are extended broad platforms made of boards. THE PACITIC OCEAN. 3 boards, and raifed about fix inches from the 177-: ground, which they ufe as feats, and on which O&oi they go to reft, after ftrewing them with mats and fkins. On one fide is the fire-place, and the fide oppofite is entirely fet apart for the ftowage of provifions and kitchen utenfils. At their feafts, and ceremonious entertainments, the hotter the jourts are made for the reception of the guefts, the greater tfa».compliment. We found them at all times fo hot, as to make any length of ftay in them to us intolerable. They betake themfelves to the jourts the middle of October ; and, for the moft part, continue in them till the middle of May. The balagans are raifed upon nine pofts, fixed into the earth in- three rows, at equal diftances from one another, and about thirteen feet high from the furface. At the height of between nine and ten feet, rafters are paffed from poll to poft, and firmly fecured by ftrong ropes. On thefe rafters are laid the joifts, and the whole being covered with turf, con flit utes the platform or floor of the balagan. On this is raifed a roof of a conical figure, by means ©# tall poles, faftened down to the rafters at one end, and meeting together in a point at the top, and thatched over with ftrong coarfe grafs. The balagans have two doors placed oppofite each other, and they afcend to them by the fame fort of ladders they ufe in the jourts. The lower part is left intirely open ; and within it they dry their fifh, roots, vegetables, and other articles of winter confumption. The proportion of jourts to balagans, is as one to fix •, fo that fix families generally live together in one jourt. The loghoufes (ift>as) are raifed with long timbers piled horizontally, the ends being let into one another, and the feams caulked with mofs. IS 37<5 A V O Y A G T © '779- OQbber. mofs. The roof is floping like that of.^ur common cottage houfes, and thatched with coarfe grafs or rufhes. The infide confifts of three apartments. At one end is what may be called the entry, which runs the whole width and height of the houfe, and is the receptacle of their fledges, harnefs, and other more bulky gears and houfe- hold fluff. This communicates with the middle and beft apartment, furnifhed with broad benches, for the purpofe, as hath been above mentioned, of both eating and fleeping upon. Out of this is a door into the kitchen, one half of which is taken up by the oven or fire-place, fo contrived, by being let into the wall that feparates the kitchen and the middle apartment, as to warm both at the fame time. Over the middle apartment and kitchen are two lofts, to which they -afcend by a ladder placed in the entry. There are two fmall windows in each apartment, made of talc, and in the houfes of the poorer fort, of fifh fkin. The beams and boards of the cieling are dubbed fmooth with a hatchet (for they are unacquainted with the plane), and from the effects of the fmoke are as black and fhining as jet. A town of Kamtfchatka is called an oftrog, and confifts of feveral of the three forts of houfes above defcribed; but of which balagans are much the moft numerous ; and I puft obferve, that I never met with a houfe of any kind detached from an oftrog. Saint Peter and Saint Paul confifts of feven loghoufes, or ifbas, nineteen balagans, and three jourts. . Paratounca is of about the fame fize. Karatchin and Nat- chekin contain fewer loghoufes, but full as many jourts and balagans as the former ; from whence ;h is the ufual fize of the J conclude, thai oUrogs.- Having THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 377 Having already had occafion to mention the 1779- drefs of the Kamtfchadale women, I fhall here (0<a°ber\ confine myfelf to a defcription of that of the men. The outermoft garment is of the fhape of a carter's frock. Thofe worn in fummer are of nankeen •, in winter they are made of fkins, moft commonly of the deer or dog, tanned on one fide, the hair being left on the other, which is worn innermoft. Under this is a clofe jacket of nankeen, or other cotton fluffs, and beneath that a fhirt of thin Perfian filk, of a blue, red, or yellow colour. The remaining part of their drefs confifts of a pair of tight trowfers, or long breeches, of leather, reaching down to the calf of the leg -, of a pair of dog or deer fkin boots, with the hair innermoft; and of a fur cap, with two flaps, which are generall^fied up clofe to the head, but in bad weather are let to fall round the fhoulders. The fur drefs prefented to me by a fon of Major Behm (as already mentioned) is one of thofe worn by the Toians, on ceremonious occafions. T|he form exactly refembles that of the common exterior garment juft defcribed. jvsJt is made of fmall triangular pieces of fur, chequered brown and white, and joined fo neatly as to appear to be one fkin. A border of fix inches breadth, wrought with threads of different coloured leather, and producing a rich effect, fur- rounds the bottom, to which is fufpended a broad edging of the fea-<c|tter fkin. The fleeves are turned up with the fame materials; and there is likewife an edging of it round the neck, and down the opening at the breaft. The lining is of a fmooth white fkin. A cap, a pair of gloves, and boots, wrought with the utmoft degree of neatnefs, and made of the fame materials, con- ftitute the remainder of this fuit. The Ruffians in is fad It A VOYAGE TO It: Kamtfchatka wear the European drefs; and the uniform of the troops quartered here, is of a dark green, faced withered. As the people fituated to the North and South of this country are yet imperfectly known, I fhall conclude the account of Kamtfchatka with fuch information concerning the Kurife iflands, and the Koreki and Tfchutfki, as I have been ableTta;; acquire. The chain of iflands, running in a South Weft direction from the Southern5^ promontory of Kamtfchatka to Japan, extending from latitude 510 to 450, are called the Kuriles. They obtained, this name from the inhabitants of the neighbourhood of Lopatka, who being themfelves called Kuriles, gave their own name to thefe iflands, on firft becoming acquainted with them. They are, according to Spanberg, t^SS^ty-two in number, without reckoning the very fmall ones. The Northernmoft, called Shoomfka, is not more than three leagues from the promontory Lopatka, and its inhabitants are a mixture of natives and Kamtfchadales. The next to the South, called Paramount, is much larger than Shoomfka, and inhabited by the true natives; their anceftors, according to a tradition among them, having come from an ifland a little farther to the South, called Onecutan. Thofe two iflands were firft vifited by the Ruffians in 1713, and at the fame time brought under their dominion. The others in order, are at prefent made tributary down to Oofhefheer inclufive, as I am informed by the worthy Paftor of Paratounca, who is their Miffionary, and vififethem once in three years, and fpeaks of the iflanders in terms of the higheft commendation, reprefenting them as a friendly, hofpitable, generous, humane race of people, and excelling their Kamtfchadale neighbours, not lefs in the formation of their bodies, than THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 379 than in docility and quicknefs of underftanding. '779- Though Oofhefheer is the Southernmoft ifland Q&°b<*- f that the Ruffians have yet brought under their '~"*"v' dominion, yet I underftand that they trade to Ooroop, which is the eighteenth ; and according to their accounts, the only one where there is a good harbour for fhips of burthen. Beyond this, to the South, lies Nadeegfda, which was reprefented to us by the Ruffians, as inhabited/by a race of men remarkably hairy, and who, like thofe of Ooroop, live in a ftate of entire independence*. In the fame direction, but inclining fomewhat more to the Weftward, lie a group of iflands, which the Japanefe call Jefo; a name which they alfo give to the whole chain of iflands between Kamtfchatka and Japan. The Southernmoft, called Matmai, hath been long fubject to the Japanefe, and is fortified and garrifoned on the fide toward the continent. The two iflands to the North Eaft of Matmai, Kunachir, and Zellany, and likewife the three ftill farther to the North Eaft, called the Three Sifters, are perfectly independent. A trade of barter is carried on between Matmai and the iflands laft mentioned; and between thofe * Spanberg places the ifland here fpoken of in 430 50' North latitude, and mentions his having watered upon it; and that this watering party brought off eight of the natives ; of whom he relates the following circumftknces : That their bodies were covered all over with hair ; that they wore a loofe ftriped filk gown, reaching as low as their ankles'; and that fome of them had filver rings pendant from the e,ars: that, on fpying a live cock on deck, they fell on their knees before it; and likewife, before the prefents that were brought out to them, clofing and ftretching forth their hands, and bowing their heads, at the fame time, down to the ground ; that, except the peculiarity of their hairinefs, they refembled the other Kurile iflanders in their features and figure, and fpoke the fame language. The journal of the fhipCaftricom alfo mentions this circumftance of the inhabitants of the country difcovered by tliem, and called Jefo, being hairy all over the body. 13 la i -^r*2p j 779. Oc A VOYAGE TO thofe again and the Kuriles, to the Northward; in which, for turs, dried fifh, and oil, the latter get filk, cotton, iron, and Japanefe articles of furniture *\ The inhabitants of as many of the iflands as are brought under the Ruffian dominion, are, at prefent, converted to Chriftianity. And probably the time is not very diftant, when a friendly and profitable intercourfe will be brought about between Kamtfchatka and the whole of this chain of iflands; and which will draw after it a communication with Japan itfelf. This may eventually be greatly facilitated by a circumftance related to me by Major Behm, that feveral Ruffians, who had been taught the Japanefe language, by two men belonging to a veffel of that nation, which had been -f- fhipwrecked on the coaft of Kamtfchatka, had been fent among thofe iflands. The * This accounts for what Krafcheninicoff fays, that he got from Paramoufir a japanned table and vafe, a fcyme- ter, and a filver ring, which he fent to the cabinet of her Imperial Majefty at Peterfburg. And if what Mr. Steller mentions, on the authority of a Kurile, who was interpreter to Spanberg in his voyage to Japan, is to be credited, that nearly the fame language is fpoken at Kunafhir and Paramoufir, it cannot be queftioned, that fome intercourfe has always fubfifted between the inhabitants of this extenfive chain of iflands. ■f- The veffel here fpoken of was from Satfma, a port in Japan, bound for another Japanefe port, called Azaka, and laden with rice, cotton, and filks. She failed wit,h a favourable wind; but, before fhe reached her deftina- tion, was driven out to fea by a violent ftorm, which carried away her mafts and rudder. On the florin's abating, not one of the crew, which confifled of feventeen (having probably never made other than coafting voyages), knew who they were, or what courfe to fleer. After remaining in this fituation fix; months, they were driven on fhore near the promontory Lopatka ; and having call out an anchor, began to carry on fhore fuch articles as were neceffary to their exiftence. They next erefited a tent, and had remained in it twenty- three days, without feeing a human being ; when chance conducted THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 381 The advantages that would accrue to the Ruf- '779- fians by an immediate trade to Japan, have been ,_"." already adverted to, and are too many, and too obvious, to need infilling upon. The Koreki country includes two diftinct nations, called the Wandering and Fixed Koriacs. The conducted a Coffack officer, called Andrew ChinnicofF, with a few Kamtfchadales to their habitation. The poor unfortunate Japanefe, overwhelmed with joy at the fight of fellow-creatures, made the nioflfignificant tenders, they were able, of friendfhip and affection ; and prefented their vifiters with filks, fabres, and a part of whatever elfe they had brought from the fhip. The treacherous ChinnicofF made reciprocal returns of kindnefs and good-will; and, after remaining with them long enough to make fuch obfervations as fuited his defigns, withdrew from them in the night. The Japanefe finding that their vifiters did not return, knew not what courfe to take. In defpair they manned their boat, and were rowing along the coaft in fearch of a habitation, when they came up with their veffel, which had been driven afhore ; and found ChinnicofF and his companions pillaging her, and pulling her in pieces for the fake of the iron. This fight determined them to continue their courfe, which Chinnicoffperceiving, ordered his men to purfue and maffacre them. The unfortunate Japanefe, feeing a canoe in purfuit, and which they could not efcape, apprehended what was to follow. Some of them leaped into the fea j others, in vain, had recourfe to prayer and intreaties. They were all maffacred but two, by the very fabres they had prefented to their fuppofed friends a few days before. One of the two was a boy about eleven years old, named Gowga, who had accompanied his father, the fhip's pilot, to learn navigation ; the other was a middle-aged man, the fupercargo, and called Sofa. ChinnicofF foon met with the punifhment due to his crimes. The two ftrangers were conducted to Peterfburg, where they were fent to the academy, with proper in- flrudlors and attendants ; and feveral young men were, at the fame time, put about them for the purpofe of learning the Japanefe language. They were thrown on the coaft of Kamtfchatka in 1730. The younger furvived the abfence from his country five, the other fix years. Their portraits are to be feen in the cabinet of the emprefs at Peterfburg. Vid. Krafcheninicoff, Vol. ii. part 4. Fr. Ed. VOYAGE f 6 «.779- October. The former inhabit the Northern part of the, ifthmus of Kamtfchatka, and the whole coaft of the Eaftern Ocean, from thence to the Anadir. The country of the Wandering Koriacs, ftretches along the North Eaft of the fea of Okotfk to th<| river Penfkiria, and Weftward toward the river Kovyrfia. The Fixed Koriacs have a ftrong refemblance to the Kamtfchadales.; and, like them, depend altogether on fifhing for fubfiftence. Their drefs and habitations are of the fame kind. They are tributary to the Ruffians, and under the diftrict of the Ingiga. The Wandering Koriacs occupy themfelves1 intirely in breeding and pafturing deer, of which they are faid to poffefs immenfe numbers; and that it is no unufual thing for an individual Chief to have a herd of four or five thoufand. They defpife fifh, and live intirely on deer. They have no balagans-, and their Only habitations are like the Kamtfchadale jourts, with this difference, that they are covered with raw deer-fkins in winter, and tanned ones in fummer. Their fledges are drawn by deer, and never by dogs; which, like the latter, are likewife always fpaved, in order to be trained to this bufinefs. The draft deer pafture in company with fhe others; and wheri^they are wanted, the herdfrrien make ufe of a certain cry, which they inftantly obey, by coming out of the hlerd. The prieft of Paratounca informed me, that the two.nationsoj. the Koriacs, and the Tfchutfki fpeak different dialects of the fame language; and that it bears not the fmalleft refemblance to the Kamtfchadale. The country of the/Tfchutfki is bounded on the South by the Anadir, and extends^tlong the coaft to the Tfchutfkoi Nofs. Like the Wandering Koriacs, their attention is principally confined m I THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 3%3 to their deer, of which their country affords great 1779. numbers, both tame and wild. They are a ftout, Prober. well-made, bold, warlike race of people; redoubtable neighbours to both nations of the Koriacs, who often feel the effects of their depredatory incurfions. The Ruffians have, for many years, been ufing their endeavours to bring them under their dominion; and, after lofing a great many men in their different expeditions for this purpofe, have nbt been able to effect it. I fhall here conclude this article, fince all we can fay of this people, on our own knowledge, hath been laid before the Reader in the preceding Volume. CHAP. fir! 4' VOYAGE TO CHAP. VIIL Plan of our future Proceedings.—Courfe to the Southward, along the Coaft of Kamtfchatka.—■ Cape Lopatka.—Pafs the Iflands Shoomfka and -Paramoufir.—Driven to the Eaftward of the Kuriles.—Singular Situation with refpefl to the pretended Difcoveries of former Navigators.—j Fruitlefs Attempts to reach the Iflands North of Japan.—Geographical Conclufions.—View of the Coaft of Japan.—Run along the Eaft Side.—Pafs two Japanefe Veffels.—Driven off the Coaft by contrary Winds.—Extraordinary Effecl of Currents.*—Steer for the Bafhees.—Pafs large Quantities of Pumice Stone.—Difcover Sulphur Ifland. —Pafs the Pratas.—Ifles of Lema, and Ladron Ifland.—Chinefe Pilot taken on Board the Refolution.—Journals of the Officers and Men fecured. 1779- October. Saturd.9 UR inftructions from the Board of Admiralty having left a difcretionary power with the commanding officer of the expedition, in cafe of failure in the fearch of a paffage from the Pacific into the Atlantic Ocean, to return to England, by whatever route he fhould think beft for the farther improvement of geography; Captain Gore demanded of the principal officers their fentiments, in writing, refpecting the manner in which thefe orders might moft effectually be THE PACIFIC OC A N. 585 be obeyed. The refult of our opinions, which 1779. he had the fatisfaction to find unanimous, and,0^-0^* intirely coinciding with his own, that the condir tion of the fhips, of the fails and cordage, made it unfafe to attempt, at fo advanced a feafon of the year, to navigate the fea between Japan and Afia ; which would otherwife have afforded the largeit field for difcovery; that it was therefore advifeable to keep to the Eaftward of that illand, and in our way thither to run along the Kuriles, and examine more particularly *****- coaft lie'neareft the Northern of the iflands that Japan, which are reprefented as of a confiderable fize, and independent of the Ruffian and Japanefe governments. Should we be fo fortunate as to find in thefe any fafe and commodious harbours, we conceived they might be of importance, either as places of fhelter for any future navigators, who may be employed in exploring the feas, or as the means of opening a commercial intercourfe among the neighbouring dominions of the two empires. Our next object was to furvey the coaft of the Japanefe Iflands, and afterward to make the coaft of China, as far to the Northward as we were able, and run along it to Macao. This plan being adopted, I received orders from Captain Gore, in cafe of feparation, to proceed immediately to Macao ; and at fix o'clock in the evening or the 9th of October, having Saturd. 9. cleared the entrance of Awatfka Bay, we fteered to the South Eaft, with the Wind "North Weft and by Weft. At midnight we had a dead calm, which continued till noon of the 10th -, the light- c houfe, at this time, bearing North half Weft, n ' l°' diftant five leagues, and Cape Gavareea South, by Weft half Weft. Being luckily in foundings of fixty and feventy fathoms water, we employed our time very profitably in catching cod, which were exceedingly fine and plentiful; and at Vol. III. C c three 5S6 A VOYAGETO '779- Oftober. three in the afternoon, a breeze fprung up from the Weft, with which we ftood along the coaft to the Southward. A head-land, bearing South by Weft, now opened with Cape Gavareea, lying about feven leagues beyond it. Between theifn are two narrow but deep inlets, which may probably unite behind what appears to be an high ifland. The coaft of thefe inlets is fteep and cliffy. The hills break abruptly, and form chafms and deep vallies, which are well wooded. Between Cape Gavareea (which lies in latitude 520 21', longitude 1580 38') and Awatfka Bay, there are appearances of feveral inlets, which at firft fight may flatter the mariner with hopes of finding fhelter and fafe anchorage : but the Ruffian pilots affured us, that there are none capable of admitting veffels of the fmalleft fize, as the low land fills up the fpaees that appear vacant between the high projecting head-lands. Toward evening, it again became calm ; but, at midnight, we had a light breeze from the North, which, increafed gradually to a ftrong gale; and at MonsLu. noon, the next day, we found ourfelves in latitude 520 4', longitude 1580 31', when Cape Gavareea bore North by Weft one quarter Weft; the South extreme South Weft half" Weft. We were at this time diftant from the neareft fhore about three leagues, and faw the whole country inland covered with fnow. A point of land to the Southward, which we place in latitude 51* 54', formed the North fide of a deep bay, called Achachinlkoi, in the diftant bottom of which we fuppofed a large river to empty itfelf, from the land behind being fo unufually low. South of Achachinlkoi Bay, the land is not fo rugged and barren as that part of the country which we had' feefore paffed. During; TUi THE PACIFIC OCEAN. jg? During the night we had variable winds and 1779. rain ; but at four in the morning of the 12th, it O&ober. began to blow fo ftrong, from the North Eaft, as to oblige us to double-reef the top-fails, and make it prudent to ftand more off the fhore. At fix, the weather becoming more moderate and fair, we again made fail, and ftood in for the land. At noon, our latitude was 510 o; longitude 1570 25'. The Northernmofi land in fight, being the point we have mentioned as firft opening with Cape Gavareea, bore North North Eaft. A head-land, with a flat top, which is in latitude 510 27', and makes the South point of an inlet, called Girowara, bore North one quarter Eaft, and the Southernmoft land in fight Weft three quarters North, diftant fix leagues. At this time we could juft perceive low land ftretching from the Southern extreme ; but the wind veering round to the North Weft, we could not get a nearer view of it. At fix in the afternoon, we faw, from the maft head, Cape Lopatka, the Southernmoft extremity of Kamtfchatka. It is a very low flat Cape, floping gradually from the high level land that we faw at noon, and bore Weft half North, about five leagues diftant ; and the high land North Weft by Weft half Weft. As this point of land forms fo marked an object in the: geography of the Eafterri coaft of Afia, we were glad to be able, by an accurate obfervation, and feveral good angles, to determine its precife fituation, which is in latitude 51 ° o', longitude 156" 45'. To the North Weft of it we faw a remarkable high mountain, the top of which lofes itfelf in the clouds; and, at the fame time, the firft of the Kurile Iflands, called Shoomfka, appeared in fight, bearing Weft half South. The paffage between this ifland and Cape Lopatka, the Ruffians defcribe as being three miles broad, and very dangerous, on account of the C c 2 rapidity. ill 38S A VOYAGE 'TO rapidity of the tides, and the funk rocks that are off the Cape. From Cape Gavareea to Lopat- ka, the coaft trends South Eaft, South of Acha- ^pSjnfkoi, the land is not fo high and broken as between that Bay and the mouth of Awatfka, being only of a moderate elevation toward the fea, with hills gradually rifing farther back in the country, The coaft is fteep and bold, and full of white chalky patches. At noon, the weather falling again to a calm, afforded us an opportunity of catching fome fine cod. We were, at this time, in forty fathoms water, and about five or fix leagues from Cape Lopatka. Both in the fore and afternoon, we had obfervations, with different compafles, for the variatioilj'and found it to be 50 20-' Eaft. We ftood on all night, under an eafy fail, to. the South South Weft, having the wind Witf-'; erly. At midnight, we founded, and had fixty 13. fathoms; and, at day-break of the 13th, we faw the fecond of the Kurile Iflands (called by the Ruffians Paramoufir), extending, from North Weft by Weft, to Weft half South. This land is very high, and almoft intirely covered with fnow. At noon, the extremes bore from North North Weft half Weft, to Weft North Weft half Weft; and a high peaked mountain, from which fome thought they faw fmoke . iffuing, North Weft by Weft half Weft, about twelve or fourteen leagues diftant. At this time our latitude, by obfervation, was 490 49', and our longittfil?5 1570 o'. In the courfe of the day we faw many gulls and albatroffes, and feveral whales. Wed. Paramoufir the dominion more accurate allowed to take. For, in the increafi-ng from the Weft. is the largeft of the Kuriles under of Ruffia, and well deferves a furvey, than we were at this time gale afternoon, the , we were never able THE PACFIC OCEAN. 389 iur. 14. able to approach it nearer than we had done at *779- noon f and were, therefore, obliged to be con- P^1^' tented with endeavouring to afcertain its fituation at that diftance. We place the South end of the ifland in latitude 490 58'; the flNorth end in latitude 50" 46', and in longitude, 10' Weft of Lopatka ; and as this pofition is found not to differ materially from that given by the Ruffians, it is probably very near the truth. Whilft we were abreaft of this ifland, we had a very heavy fwell from the North Eaft, though the wind had, for fome time, been from the Weftward ; a <jjjjj|:urnflance which we have already remarked more than once during the courfe of our voyage. In the night we tried for foundings, but found no ground with fifty fathoms of line. On the 14th and 15th, the wind blowing Thi fteadily and frefh from the Weftwaard, we were'Fnday 1$ obliged to ftand tor%he Southward ; and con- feqnently hindered from feeing any more of the Kurile iflands. At noon of the i6th, thes. g latitude, by obfervation, was 45° 27'; the longitude, deduced from a number of lunar obfervations taken d;u||ng the three days .paft, 1550 go'. The variation 40 30'Eaft. In this fituation, we were almoft furrounded by the fuppofed difcoveries of former navigators, and uncertain to which we fhould turn ourfelves. To the Southward and the South Weft w>ajj#>y placed, in the French charts, a gfebp of five iflands, called the Three Sifters, Zellany and Kunafhir. We were about ten leagues according to the fame maps, to the Weftward of the land of De Gama, which we had paffed to the Eaftward in April laft, at a diftance rather lefs than this, without feeing any appearance of it; from which circumftance we may now conclude, that, if fuch land exift at all, it muft be an ifland or isA 39o '779- October. A VOYAGE TO of a very inconfiderable fize *. On the other hand, if we give credit to the original pofition of this land, fixed by Texiera f, it lay to the Weft by South; and as the Company's Land J, Staten Ifland §, and the famous land of Jefo |J, were alfo fuppofed * From Muller's account of the courfe fteered by Captain Spanberg, in his route from Kamtfchatka to Japan, it appears, that he muft alfo undoubtedly have feen De Crania's Land, if it really has the extent given it in Mr. d'Anviile-'s maps. Walton, who commanded a veffel in the fame expedjji.oo, feems alfo to have looked in vain for this land oh fits "return from Japan ; and three years afterward, on account of fome doubts that had arifen refpecting Spanberg's courfe, Beering went directly in fearch of it as low as thei,titude of 460, See Voyages et Decowvertes, &c. p. 210, & feq. f See Book VI. Chap. i. p. 149. % This land was feen by the Dutchmen who failed in the Caftricom and Brefkes, and imagined by them to be part of the continent of America. There now remains fcarce any doubt of its being the iflands of Ooroop and Nad.eegfda. See the Journals of the Caftricom and -€5^tkes, publifhed by Wetzer. § This land was alfo difcovered by the Caftricom ; and, from its fituation, as defcribed in th&ysournal of that veffel, it appears to be the iflands of the Three Sifters. || The coutitry of Jefo, which has fo long been a ftumb- geographers, was firft brought block to our modern ling- lo the knowledge of Europeans by the Dutch veffels mentioned in the preceding notes. The name appears, from the earlieft accounts, to have been well known, both to the Japanefe and the Kamtfchatdales ; and ufed by them, rndifciiminately, for all the iflands lying between Kamt- ichatka and Japan. It has fince been applied to a large imaginary ifland, or continent, fuppofed to have been difcovered by the Caftricom and Brefkes ; and it may not„ therefore, be improper to confider the grounds of this miftake, as far as can be collected from the Journals of this expedition. The object of the voyage, in which thofe fhips were engaged, was to explore the Eaftern fliore of Tartary ; but, being feparated by a ftorm off the South Eaft point of Japan, they failed in different tracks along the Eaft fide of that ifland ; and, having paffed its Northern extremity, proceeded fingly on their intended expedition. Tfce P A C I F I C O C E A N. ^p>pofed to lie nearly in the fame direction, together with the group firft mentioned, according to the Ruffian charts, we thought this coaft de- ferved the preference, and accordingly hauled round to the Weftward, the wind having fhift- ed, in the afternoon, to the Northward. During this day we faw large flocks of gulls, feveral albatroffes, fulmars, and a number of fifh, which The Caftricom, commanded by De Vries, fteenngNorth- ward, fell in with land on the third day, in latitude 4a0. Me failed along the South Eaft coaft about fixty leagues in a -conftant fogt, and having anchored in various places, held a friendly intercourfe with the inhabitants. Thus far the Joiirnal. Now, as the iflands of Matimai, Kunafhir, and Zellany appeajpifroni Captain Spanberg's Difcoveries, to lie exactly in this fituation, there can be no doubt of their being the fame land ; and the circumftance of the fog fufficiently accounts for the error of De Vries, in imagining them to be one-continent ; without having recourfe to the fuppofition of an earthquake, by which Mr. Muller, from his defire to reconcile the opinion generally received, with the later Ruffian difcoveries, conceives the feveral parts to have been feparated. The journal then proceeds to give an account-of the diicovery of Staten Ifland and Company's lan-d, of which I have already given my opinion, and fhall have occafion to (peak hereafter. Havin paffed through the Straits of De Vries, fays the Journal they entered a vaft, wild, and tempeftuous fea, in which they fteered, through mitts and darknefs, to the 48* latitude North ; after which they were driven by contrary winds to the Southward, and again fell in with land to the Weftward, in latitude 45*, which they unaccountably ftill imagined to be part of the continent of Jefo ; whereas, whoever examines Janfen's map of their difcoveries-(which appears to be exceedingly accurate, as far as his information went), will, I believe, have no doubt, that they were, at this time, on the coaft of Tartary, Having traced this land four degrees to the Northward, they returned to the Southward through the Straits they had paffed before. It is not neceffary to trouble the Reader with the Journal of the Brefkes, as il contains no new matter, and has been already repubiifhed, and yery fatisfaftorily animadverted upon by Mr. Muller. Voyages froJrt Afia to America, &c. Engiifh Tran- iJation, p. 78. !779- OSober A G O 177 oaoi which our failors called grampufes; but, as far as we could judge, from the appearance of thofe that paffed clofe by the fhips, we imagined them to be the kafatka, or fword-fifh, defcribed by Krafcheninicoff, to whom 1 refer the Reader, for a curious account of the manner in which they attack the whales. In the evening, a vifit from a fmall land-bird, about the fize of a gold-r finch, and refembiirrg that bird in fhape and plumage, made us keep a good look out for land. However, at midnight, on trying for foundings, we found no ground with forty- five fathoms of Sun. 17. On the 17th, at noon, we were in latitude 450 7', by obfervation, longitude /540 o'. The wind now again coming to the Weftward, obliged ;;s to fleer a more Southerly courfe; and, at midnight, it blew from that quarter a frefh gale, accompanied with heavy rain. Jn the morniffl^ii we faw another land bird, and many flocks of gulls and peterels bending their courfe to the South Weft. The heavy North Eaft fwell, with which we had conftantly laboured fince our departure from Lopatka, now ceafed, and changed firddenly to the South Eaft. In the forenoon Mon. 18. of the 1 8th, we paffed great quantities of rock- weed, from which, and the flights of birds above mentioned, we conjectured we were at no great difiance from the Southermoft of the Kuriles; and, at the fame time, the wind coming round to the South, enabled us to ftand in for it. At two, we fet ftudding-fails, and fteered \Veft; but the wind increafing to a gale, foon obliged us to double reef the topfails ; and, at midnight, we judged it neceffary to try for foundings. Accordingly we I hove to ; but, finding no bottom at feventy-five fathoms, we were encouraged to perfevere, and again bore away Weft, with the wind at South Eaft. This courfe we kept till two.ih the morn- Tuef. 19. ing, when the weather becoming.tbfsk, we hauled our THE PACIFIC OCEAN. our wind, and fteered to the South Weft till five, when a violent ftorm reduced us to our courfes. Notwithftanding the unfavourable ftate of the weather left us little profpecf of making the land, we ftill kept this object anxioufly in view; and, at day-light, ventured to fteer Weft by South, and continued to ftand on in this direction till ten in the forenoon, when the wind, fuddenly fhift- ing to the South Weft, brought with it clear weather. Of this we had fcarcely taken advantage, by fetting the top-fails, and letting out the reefs, when it began to blow fo ftrong from this quarter, that we were forced to clofe-reeve again ; and, at noon, the wind fhifting two points to the Weft, rendered |t*vain to keep any longer on this tack. We therefore put about, and fteered to the Southward. At this time, our latitude, by obfervation, was 440 i'z', and longitude i50°4o'; fo that, after all our efforts, we had the mortification to find ourfelves, according to the Ruffian charts, upon a meridian with Nadeegfda, which they make the Southernmoft of the Kurile iflands, and about twenty leagues to the Southward. But, though the violent and contrary winds we tfta met with during the laft fix days, prevented our getting in with thefe iflands, yet the courfe we had been obliged to hold, is not without its geographical advantages. For the group of iflands, confifting of the Three Sifters, Kunafhir and Zellany, which, in D'An- ville's maps, are placed in the track we had juft crofted 5 being, by this means, demon- ftratively removed from that fituation, an additional proof is obtained of their lying to the Weftward, where Spanberg actually places them, between the longitude 1420 and 1470. But as this fpace is occupied, in the French charts by part of the fuppofed land of Jefo and Staten Ifland. 391 1779. October. Ill 1 13 j 394 A VOYAGE TO ,-_7g Ifland, Mr. Muller's opinion becomes extremely Oflober. probable, that they are all the fame lands ; and as no reafons appear for doubting Spanberg's accuracy, we have ventured, in our general map, to reinftate the Three Sifters, Zellany, and Kunafhir, in their proper fituation, and have entirely omitted the reft. When the Reader recollects the manner in which the Ruffians have multiplied the iflands of the Northern Archipelago, from the want of accuracy in determining their real fituation, and the defire men naturally feel of propagating new difcoveries, he will not be furprized, that the fame caufes fhould produce the fame effects. It is thus that the Jefoian lands, wh'fch appear, both from the accounts of the Japanefe, and the earlieft Ruffian traditions, to be no other than the Southern Kurile iflands, have been fuppofed diftinct from the latter. The land of De Gama is next on record I and was originally placed nearly in the fame fituation with thofe juft mentioned; but was removed, as has been already fuggefted, to make room for Staten Ifland, and the Company's Land; and as Jefo, and the Southernmoft of the Kuriles, had alfo poffeffion of this fpace, that nothing might be loft, they were provided for, the former a little to the Weftward, and the latter to the Eaftward. As the iflands of Zellany and Kunafhir, according to the Ruffian charts, were ftill to the Southward, we were not without hopes of being able to make them, and therefore kept our head as much to the Weftward as the wind would 2<x permit. On the 20th, at noon, we were in latitude 430 47', and longitude 1500 30'; and fleering Weft by South, with a moderate breeze from South Eaft, and probably not more than twenty- four leagues to the Eaftward of Zellany, when -our good fortune again deferted us. For, at three o'clock THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 395 o'clock in the afternoon, the wind veering round »779- to the North Weft, began to blow fo ftrong, that ^f^Ill, we were brought under our forefail and mizen ~ ftay-fail. We had very heavy fqualls, and hard rain during the next twenty-four hours; after which, the horizon clearing a little, and the weather growing moderate, we were enabled to fet the topfails; but the wind, ftill continuing to blow from the North Weft, baffled all our endeavours to make the land, and obliged us, at laft, to give up all further thoughts of difcovery to the North of Japan. We fubmitted to this difappointment with the greater reluctance, as the accounts that are given of the inhabitants of thefe iflands mentioned at the end of the laft Chapter, had excited in us the greater curiofity to vifit them. In the afternoon, the leach-rope of the Refo- lution's fore-top-fail gave way, and fplit the fail. As this accident had often happened to us in Captain Cook's life-time, he had ordered the foot and leach-ropes of the top-fails to be taken out, and larger fixed in their ftead ; and as thefe alfo proved unequal to the ftrain that was on them, it is evident, that the proper proportion of ftrength between thofe ropes and tKe fail is exceedingly mifcalculated in our fervice. This day a land-bird perched on the rigging, and was taken; it was larger than a fparrow, but in other refpects, very like one. The gale now abated gradually; fo that in the morning of the 22d, we let out the reefs of the top- -p^ 22_ fails, and made more fail. At noon, we were in latitude 40° 58', and longitude 1480 17'; the variation 30 Eaft. In the afternoon, another little wanderer from the land pitched on the fhip, and was fo worn out. with fatigue, that it fuffered itfelf to be taken immediately, and died a few hours afterward. It was not bigger than a wren, had a tuft of yellow feathers on its head, and the reft • 13 h 1779- Oaober. sat. 23. 3113. 24. A VOYAGE TO reft of its plumage like that of the linnet. The fparrow, being ftronger, lived a long time. Thefe birds plainly indicating, that we could not be at any great diftance from the land, and the wind, after varying a little, fixing in the evening at North, our hopes of making the land again revived, and we hauled up to the Weft North Weft, in which direction, the Southernmoftiflands, feen by Spanberg, and faid to be inhabited by hairy men, lay at the diftance of about fifty fifty leagues. But the wind not keeping pace with our wifhes, blew in fuch light airs, that we made little way, till eight the next morning, when we had.a frefh breeze from the South South Weft, with which we continued to fteer Weft North Weft, till the evening. At noon, we were in latitude 400 $$', longitude 1460 45'; the latter deduced from feveral lunar obfervations taken during the night. The variation of the needle we found to be 17' Ea-fts In the evening, we had ftrong fqually- gales attended with rain, and having palled in the courfe of the day, feveral patches of green grafs, and feen a fhag, many fmall land birds, and flocks of gulls, it was not thought prudent, with all thefe figns of the vicinity of land, to ftand on during the whole night. We therefore tacked at midnight, and fteered a few hours to the South Eaft, and at four in the morning of the 24th, again directed our courfe to the Weft North Weft, and carried a prefs of fail till feven in the evening, when the wind fhifted from South Soutlh Weft to North, and blew a frefh gale. At this time we were in the latitude of 400 57', and the krngitude of 1450 20'. This fe'$and difappointmfent, in our endeavours to get to the North Weft, together with the boift- erous .-wiftfener we had met with, and the little likelihood, at this time of the year, of its becoming more favourable to.our views, were Captain Gore's motives for now finally giving up all farther THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 397 Fuef. 2S. ther fearch for the iflands to the North of Japan, '7-79. and for fhaping a courfe Weft South Weft, for °j^; the North- part of that ifland. In the night, the wind fhifted to the North Eaft, and blew a frefh gale, with hard rain, and hazy weather, which by- noon of the 25th, brought us to the latitude °f Mon. zs 400 18', inthe longitude 1440 o'. To-day we faw flights of wild ducks, a pigeon lighted on our rigging, and many birds, like linnets, flew about us with a degree of vigour that feemed to prove, they had not been long upon the wing. We alfo paffed patches of long grafs, and a piece either of fugar-cane or bamboo. Thefe figns, that land was at no great diftance, induced us to try for foundings; but we found no ground with ninety fathoms of line. Toward evening, the wind by degrees fhifted round to the South, with which we ftill kept on to the Weft South Weft; and at daybreak of the 26th, we had the pleafure of defcry- ; ing high land to the Weftward, which proved to be Japan. At eight it extended from North Weft to South by Weft, diftant three or four leagues. A low flat cape bore North Weft three-quarters Weft, and feemed to make the South part of the entrance of a bay. Toward the South extreme, a conical fhaped hill bore South by Weft three- quarters Weft. To the Northward of this hill there appeared to be a very deep inlet, the North fide of the entrance into which is formed by a low point of land, and, as well as we could judge by our glaffes, has a fmall ifland near it to the Southward. We ftood on till nine, when we were within two leagues of the land, bearing Weft three-quarters South, and had foundings of fifty-eight fathoms, with a bottom of very fine fand. We now tacked and flood off; but the wind dying away, at noon we had got no farther than three leagues from the coaft, which extended from North Weft by North three-quarters Weft, to South half Eaft, and was, for the moft part, bold IS lal 39§ »779- October. A V O Y A G T O and cliffy. The low cape to the Northward bore North Weft by Weft, fix leagues diftant; and the North point of the inlet South, three-quarters Weft. The latitude, by obfervation, was 400 5', and longitude 142, ° 28'. The Northernmoft land in fight, we judged to be the Northern extremity of Japan*. It is lower than any other part; and, from the range of the high lands that were feen over it from the malt-head, the coaft appeared evidently to incline round to the Weftward. The North point of the inlet we fuppofed to be Cape Nambu, and the town to be fituated in a break of the high land, toward which the inlet feemed to direct itfelf -f. The country is of a moderate height, confifts of a double range of mountains; it abounds with wood, and has a pleafing variety of hills and dales. We faw the fmoke of feveral towns or villages, and many houfes near the fhore, in pleafant and cultivated fituatidns. During the calm, being willing to make the beft ufe of our time, we put our fifhing lines overboard, in ten fathoms water, but without any fuccefs. As this was the only amufement our circumftances admitted, the difappointment was always very fenfibly felt, and made us look back with regret to the cod-banks of the dreary regions we had left, which had fupplied us With fo many wholefome meals, and, by the diverfion they afforded, had given a variety to the wearifome fucceflion of gales and calms, and the tedious repetition * The only authentic furvey of the Eaftern coaft of Japan, with which I am acquainted, is that publifhed by Janfen in his Atlas, and compiled with great accuracy from the charts and journals of the Caftricom and Brafkes. I have therefore adopted, wherever the identity of the fituations could be nearly afcertained, the names given in that map to the correfponding points^End head-lands feen by us along the coaft. Janfen places the Northern extremity of Japan, in latitude 400 1 5'. The point feen by us was in latitude 400 27'. T This town is called by Janfen, Nabo. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 399 petition of the fame nautical obfervations. At >779- two in the afternoon, the breeze frefhened from ,J__' er'_, the Southward, and, by four, had brought us under clofe-reefed topfails, and obliged us to ftand off to the South Eaft. In confequence of this courfe, and the hazinefs of the weather, the land foon difappeared. We kept on ail night, and till eight the next morning, when the wind coming v7ed. 27. round to the North, and growing moderate, we made fail, and fteered Weft South Weft, toward the land ; but did not make it till three in the afternoon, when it extended from North Weft half Weft to Weft. The Northernmoft extreme being a continuation of the high land, which was the Southernmoft we had feen the day before; the land to the Weft we conceived to be the Hofe Tafel Berg (the High Table Hill) of Janfen. Between the two extremes, the coaft was low and fcarcely perceptible, except from the maft-head. We ftoodion toward the coaft till eight, when we were about five leagues diftant; and having fhort- ened fail for the night, fteered to the Southward, founding every four hours; but never found ground with one hundred and fixty fathoms of line. On the 28th, at fix in the morning, we again T, faw land, twelve leagues to the Southward of that feen the preceding day, extending from Weft South Weft to Weft by North. We fteered South Weft obliquely with the fhore; and, at ten, faw more land open to the South Weft. To the Weftward of this land, which is low and flat, are two iflands, as we judged, though fome doubts were entertained, whether they might not be connected with the adjacent low ground. The hazy weather, joined to our diftance, prevented us alfo from determining, whether there are ai y inlets or harbours between the projecting points, which feem here to promife good fhelter. At noon, the North extreme bore North Weft by North, and a high peaked hill, over a fteep head-land, Weft by 4-00 1779- October. A V O Y A G T O II by North, diftant five leagues. Our latitude at this time, by obfervation, was 3 8° 16', longitude 1420 9'. The mean of the variation, from obfervations taken both in the fore and afternoon, was i° 20'Eaft. At half paft three in the afternoon, we loft fight of the land ; and, from its breaking off fo fudden- ly, conjectured, that what we had feen this day is an ifland, or, perhaps, a clufter of iflands, lying off the naMin land ofjapan; but as the iflands, called by Janfen the Schildpads, and by Mr. D'An- ville Matfima, though laid down nearly in the fame fituation, are not equal in extent to the land fwaa, by us, we muft leave this point undecided. Having kept a South Weft courfe during the remaining part of the day, we found ourfelves, at midnight, in feventy fathoms water, over a bottom of fine dark brown fand. We therefore hauled Frid. 29. Up to the Eaftward, till morning, when we faw the land again, about eleven leagues to the Southward of that which we had feen the day before; and at eight, we were within fix or feven miles of the fhore, having carried in regular foundings from fixty-five to twenty fathoms, over coarfe fand and gravel. Unluckily there was a haze over the land, which hindered our diftinguifhing fmall objects on- it. The coaft is ftraight and unbroken, and runs nearly in a North and South direction. Toward the fea the ground is low, but rifes gradually into hills of a moderate height, whofe tops are tolerably even, and covered with wood. At nine o'clock, the wind fluffing to the Southward, and the fky lowring, we tacked and ftood off to the Eaft, and foon after we faw a veffel, clofe in with the land, ftanding along the fhore to the Northward, and another in the offing, coming down on us before the wind. Objects of any kind, belonging to a country fo famous, and yet fo little known, it will be eafily conceived, muft have excited a general curiofity, and accord- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. accordingly every fouPdn board was upon deck in an irircant, to gaze at them. As the veffel to windward approached us, fhe hauled farther off fhore -, upon which, fearing" that we fhould alarm them by the appearance of a purfuit, we brought the fhip's' to, and fhe paffed ahead of us, at the diftance of about half a mil* It would have, been eafy for us to have fpokeri jfith them ; but perceiving, by tlfeir manoeuvres, that they were ; ffiueb. frightened, Captain Gore was not willing to augment their terrors ; and, thinking that we fhould have many better opportunities of communication with this people, fuffered them to go off without interruption. Our diftarice did not permit us to remark any particulars regarding the men on board, who feemed to be about fix in numoef, efpecially as the hazinefs of the*' weather precluded the ufe of our glalfes. According to the beft conjectures we were able to form, the veffel w'a*s.' about forty tons burthen. She fr§b* but one maft, on which wa's'bdjfted a fquare fail, extended by a yard aloft, the braces of which worked forward. Halfway down the fait, came three pieces of black cloth, at equal diftances from each other. The veffel was higher at each end than irrothe midfhip ; and we imagined, from her appearance and form, that it was impoffible for her to fail any otherwife than large. At noon the wind frefhened, and brought with it a good deal of rain ; by three, it had increafed fo much,' that we were reduced to our courfes ; at the fame time, the fea ran as high as any one on board ever remembered to have feen it. If the Japanefe veffels are, as Kaempfer defcribes them, open in the flern, it would not have been poffible for thofe we faw, to have fur- vived the fury of. this ftorm ; but as the appearance of the weather, all the preceding part Vol. III. D d of 401 !":, M \ 4oa $M VOYAGE TO •779- of the day, foretold its coming, and one of the iia ober. floops had, notwithftanding, ftood far out to fea, we may fafely conclude, that they are perfectly capable of bearing a gale of wind. Spanberg indeed defcribes tv/o kinds of Japanefe veffels; one anfwering to the above defcription of Ksemp- fer; the other, which he calls buffes, and in which, he fays, they make their voyages to the neighbouring iflands, exactly correfponds with thofe we faw f. At eight in the evening, the gale fhifted to the Weft,, without abating the leaft in violence, and by raifing a fudden fwell, in a contrary direction to that which prevailed before, occasioned the fhips to ftrain and labour exceedingly; During the ftorm, feveral of the fails were fplit on board the Refolution. Indeed they had been fo long bent, and were worn fo thin, that this accident had of late happened to us almoft daily, in both fhips; efpecially when being ftiff and heavy with the rain, they became lefs able to bear the fhocks of the violent and variable winds we at this time experienced. The gale at length growing moderate, and fettling to the Weft, we kept upon a wind to the Southward ; and at nine Satur. jc. in the morning of the 30th, we faw the land, at the diftance of about fifteen leagues, bearing from Weft by North to North Weft one quarter Weft. It appeared in detached parts; but whether they were fmall iflands, or parts of Japan, our diftance did not enable us to determine. At noon, it extended from North Weft to Weft, the neareft land being about thirteen leagues diftant, beyond which the coaft feemed to run in a Wefterly direction. The latitude by obfervation, was 360 41', longitude 1420 6'. The point to the Northward, which was fuppofed to be near f Vide Muller, Fr. ed. page 21 <t. the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 403 the Southernmoft land feen the day before, we 1779. conjectured to be Cape de flennis, and the break October, to the Southward of this point, to be the mouth ~v—> - of the river on which the town of Giffima is faid to be fituated. The next cape is probably that called in the Dutch charts Boomtje's Point, and the Southernmoft, off which we were abreaft at noon, we fuppofe to be near Low Point*, and that we were at too great a diftance to fee the 1fe# land, in which it probably terminates, to the Eaftward. In the afternoon, the wind veering round to the North Eaft, we ftood to the Southward, at the diftance of about eighteen leagues from the fhore, trying for foundings, as we went along, but finding none with one hundred and fifteen fathoms of line. At two the next morning, it fhifted to Sund. 31, Weft, attended with rain and lightning, and blowing in heavy fqualls. During the courfe of the day, we had feveral fmall birds of a brown plumage, refembling linnets, flying about us, which had been forced off the land by the ftrong Wefterly gales; but toward the evening, the wind coming to the North Weft, we fhaped our courfe, along with them, to Weft South Weft, in order to regain the coaft. In the morning of the ift of November, the wind again fhifted to Noverm South Eaft, and bringing with it fair weather, we Mond. 1. got forty-two fets of diftances of the moon from the fun and ftars, with four different quadrants, each fet confuting of fix obfervations; thefe agreeing pretty nearly with each other, fix our fituation at noon the fame day, with great accuracy, in longitude 1410 32', the latitude, by obfervation, was 35° 17'. We found an error of latitude, in our reckonings of the preceding day, "of eight miles, and in this day's of feventeen ; * Lage Hoeck, or Low Point, is placed by Janfen in latitude 36° 40'. D d 2 from IS 404 A VOYAGE TO m y i 1779. from whence, and from our being much more Novemb. ^ fae Eaftward than we expected, we concluded, ' that there had been a ftrong current from>%$ South Weft. At two in the afternoon, we again made the land to the Weftward, at the diftance of about twelve leagues ; the Southernmoft land in fight, which we fuppofed to **jbe White Point *, bore Weft South Weft half Weft •, a hummock to the Northward, which had the appearance of being an ifland, bore North North We||; half Weft, within which we faw from the maft-head low land, which we took to be Sand-down Point f. We ftood in toward the land, ^1 half paft five, when we hauled our wind to the Southward. At this time we faw a number of Japanefe veffels, clofe in with the land, feveral feerrt- ingly engaged in fifhing, and others ftanding along fhore. We now difcovered to the Weftward a remarkably high mountain, with a round top, riling far in-land. There i^no high ground near it, the coaft being of a moderate elevation, and, as far as we could judge, from the hazinefs of the horizon, naaach broken by fmall inlets. By* ' to the Southward of the hummock ifland before mentioned, there appeared, at a great diftance, within the country, a ridge of hills, ftretchihig in a direction toward the mountain, and probably joining with it. As this is the moft remarkable hill on the coaft, we could have wifhed to have fettled its fituation exactly; but having only had this fingle view, were obliged to be contented with fuch accuracy as our circumftances would allow. Its latitude therefore we conceive to be ^cft zd, its longitude, eftimated by its diftance from the fhips, at this time fifteen leagues, 1400 26'. » * Witte Hoeck, placed by Janfen in" latitude 350 24'* •f Sandnynege Hoeck, in latitude 35 55- anlen. As 48. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. N< 4oS- «779- As the Dutch charts make the coaft of Japan extend about ten leagues to the South Weft of White Point, at eight we tacked, and ftood off to the Eaftward, in order to weather the point. At midnight, we agaan tacked to the South Weft, expecting to fall in with the coaft to the Southard, but were furprized, in the morning at Tuefday eight to fee the hummock, at the diftance only z. of three leagues, bearing Weft North Weft. We began, at firft, to doubt the evidence of our fenfes, and arfterward to fufpect fome deception from a fimilarity of land ; but, at noon, we found ourfelves, by obfervation, to be actually in latitude gcf 43', -at a time when our reckonings gave us 34° 48'. So that, during the eight hours in which we fuppofed we had made a courfe of nine leagues to the South Weft, we had in reality been carried ei|fht leagues from the pofition we left, in a dsjr$g$L©n diametrically op^ofiUe -, which made, on the whole, in that fhort fpace of time, a difference, in<iwaif reckoning, of feventeen leagues. From this error, we calculated, that the current had fet to the North Eaft by North, at the rate of at leaiib five miles an- hour. Our longitude, at this time, was 1410 16'. The weather having now the fame threatening appearaitads as on the-29th of October, which was followed by fo hidden and fevere a gale, and the wind continuing at South South Eaft, it was thought prudent to leave the fhore, and ftand off to the- E^^japd, to preventPour being entangled with the land. Nor were we'wrong in our prog- noftications ; for it foon afterward began, and' continued: till*, neat day, to blow a heavy-gale, accompanied with hagsy and£ rai&y weather; In the morningrof the jd^ we found ourfelves, by We ,r our reckoning, upward of fifty leagues from the land ; which circumftance, together;with the very extraordinary- 19 4o6 A V O Y A G E T © extraordinary effect of currents we had before experienced, the late feafon of the year, the unfettled ftate of the weather, and the little likelihood of any change for the better, made Captain Gore refoive to leave Japan altogether, and profecute our voyage to China; hoping, that as the track he meant to purfue had never yet been explored, he should be able to make amends, by fome new difcovery, for the difappointments <imf had met with on this coaft. If the reader fhould be of opinion that we quitted this object too haftily, in addition to the facts already ftated, it ought to be remarked, Ksempfer defcribes the coaft of Japan as the moft dangerous in the whole world*; that it would have been equally dangerous, in cafe of diftrefs, to run into any of their harbours \ where we know, from the beft authorities, that the averfion of the inhabitants to any intercourfe with"Hran- gers, has led them to commit the moft atrocious barbarities ; that our fhips were in a leaky condition ; that our fails were worn out, and unable to withftand a gale of wind ; and that the rigging was fo rotten as to require conftant and perpetual repairs. As the ftrong currents, which fet along the Eaftern coaft of Japan, may be of dangerous confequence to the navigator, who is not aware of their extraordinary rapidity, I fhall take leave of this ifland, with a fummary account of their force and direction, as obferved by us from the I ft to the 8th of November. On the ift, at which time we were about eighteen leagues to the Eaftward of White Point, the current fet North Eaft and by North, at the rate of three miles an' hbur ; on the 2d, as we approached the fhore, we * See Ksempfer's Hjft. of Japan, Vol. I. p. 92, 93, 94, and 102^ found THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 407 1779. Novemb. found it continuing in the fame direction, but increafed in its rapidity to five miles an hour; as we left the fhore it again became more moderate and inclined to the Eaftward ; on the 3d, at the diftance of fixty leagues, it fet to the Eaft North Eaft, three miles an hour; on the 4th and 5th, it turned to the Southward, and at one hundred and twenty leagues from the land, its direction _ was South Eaft, and its rate not more- than a mile and half an hour: on the 6th and 7th, it again fhifted round to the North Eaft, its force gradually di- miniftiing till the 8th; when we could no longer perceive any at all. During the 4th and 5th, we continued our Thurf. 4. courfe to the South Eaft, having very unfettled Friday 5. weather, attended with much lightning and rain. On both days we paffed great quantities of pumice ftone, feveral pieces of which we took up and found to weigh from one ounce to three pounds. We conjectured that thefe ftones had been thrown into the fea, by eruptions of various dates, as many of them were covered with barnacles, and others quite bare. At the fame time, we faw two wild ducks, and feveral fmall land birds, and had many porpuffes playing round us. On the 6th, at day-light, we altered our courfe Saturd. 6. to the South South Weft ; but at eight in the evening, we were taken back, and obliged to fteer to the South Eaft. On the 7th, at noon, Sund. 7. we faw a fmall land bird, our latitude, by obfervation at this time, being 330 52'> and. long*- tude 1480 42'. On the 9th, we were in lati- Tuefd. 9. tude 310 46', longitude 1460 20', when we again faw a fmall land bird, a tropic bird, porpuffes, flying fifties, and had a great fwell from the Eaft South Eaft. We continued our courfe to the South Weft, having the winds from the Northward, 1779- No veil) b. Frid. 12. >atur, A VOYAGE TO ward, without any remarkable occurrrence, till the 12th, when we had a moft violent gale of wind from the fame quarter, which reduced us to the fore-fail, and fflizeri flay-lffS^ and, as the weather was fo hazy, that we were not able to fee a cable's length before us, and many fhoals and fmall iflands are laid down in our charts, in this part of the ocean, we brought to, with bur heads to the South Weft. At noon, the latitude^by account, was 270 36', longi- '3 tude 1440 25'. In the morning of the 13th, the wind fhifting round fo the North Weft, brought with ftfffair weather ; but though we were at this time nearly in the fituation given to the ifland Iff St. Juan, we faw no appearance of land. We%ow; bore away to the-'-South Weft, and fet the top-fails, the gale ftill continuing wifBfgreaf violence. At nbon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 26° £>', longitude 1430 40', and variation' 30 50' Eaft. In the afternoon, we faw flying fifh, and dolphins, ajfo tropic birds, and albatroffes. WeTftuTCbhtiriued to pafs much pumice ftone : indeed, the prodigious" quantities of rthis fiirjftance, which float in the fea, between Japan and the Bafhee Iflands, feem to indicate, that fome great volcanic con- vulfion muft have happened in this part of the Pacific Ocean ; and, corifequently, give fome degree of probability to 'the opinion of Mr. Muller, which I have already had occafion to mention, refpecting the feparation of the continent of Jefo, and the disappearance of Company's Land, and Staten Ifland. At fix in the afternoon, we altered our courfe to the Weft South Weft, Captain Gore judging it ufelefs tofteerany longer to the South South Weft, as we were near the meridian of the Ladrones, or Marianne Iflands, and at no great diftance from 14. the track of the Manilla fhips. In the morning of THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 409 of the 14th, the weather became fine, and the 1779. wind, which was moderate, gradually fhifted Nove-mb. to the North Eaft, and proved to be the trade w*°"v"t " wind. At ten, Mr. Trevenen, one of the young gentlemen who came along with me into the Difcovery, faw land appearing, like a peaked mountain, and bearing South Weft. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 240 37', longitude 1420 2'. The land, which we now difcovered to be an ifland, bore South Weft half Weft, diftant eight or ten leagues ; and at two in the afternoon, we faw another to the Weft North Weft. This fecond ifland, when feen at a diftance, has the appearance of two; the South point coni&fiing of a high conical hill, joined by a narrow neck to the Northern land, which is of a moderate height. As this was evidently of greater extent than the ifland to the South, we altered our courfe toward it. Jit four, it bore North Weft by Weft; but, not having day light fufficient to examine the coaft, we 'ftood upon our tacks during the night. On the 15th, at fix in the morning, we bore j\jon> ,.- away for the South point of the larger ifland, at which time we difcovered another high ifland, bearing North three quarters Weft, the South ifland being on the fame rhomb line, and the South point of the ifland ahead, Weft by North. At nine, we were abreaft, and within a mile of the middle ifland, but Captain Gore, finding that a boat could not land without fome'< danger from the great furf that broke on the fliore, kept on his courfe to the Weftward. At noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was 24* 50', longitude 1400 56' Eaft. This ifland is about five miles long, in a North North Eaft, and South South Weft direction. The South point is a high barren hill, flattifh is iifa I 1 m 4io A VOYAGE TO fiattifh at the top, and when feen from the Weft South Weft, prefents an evident volcanic crater. The earth, rock, or fand, for it was not eafy to diftinguifh of which its furface is compofed, exhibited various colours, and a confiderable part we conjectured to be fulphur, both from its appearance to the eye, and the ftrong fulphu- reous fmell which we perceived, as we approached the point. Some of the officers on board the Refolution, which paffed nearer the land, thought they faw fleams rifing from the top of the hill. From thefe circumftances, Captain Gore gave it the name of Sulphur Ifland. A low, narrow, neck of land connects this hill with the South end of the ifland, which fpreads out into a circumference of three or four leagues, and is of a moderate height. The part near the ifihmus has fome bufhes on it, and has a green appearance, but thofe to the North Eaft are very barren, and full of large detached rocks, many of which were exceedingly white. Very dangerous breakers extend two miles and a half to the Eaft, and two miles to the Weft off the middle part of the ifland, on which the fea broke with great violence. The North and South iflands appeared to us as fingle mountains, of a confiderable height ; the former peaked, and of a conical fhape; the latter more fquare and flat at the top. Sulphur Ifland we place in latitude 240 48, longitude 1410 12'. The North ifland in latitude 250 14', longitude 141 ° 10'. The South ifland in latitude 240 22', and longitude 1410 20'. The variation obferved was 30 30' Eaft. Captain Gore now directed his courfe to the Weft South Weft, for the Bafhee Iflands, hoping to procure, at them, fuch a fupply of refrefh- ments THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ments as would help to fhorten his ftay in Ma- 41J 1779. Novemb. cao. Thefe iflands were vifited by Dampier, £ who gives a very favourable account, both of the civility of the inhabitants, and of the plenty of hogs and vegetables, with which the country abounds : they were afterward feen by Byron and Wallis, who paffed them without landing. In order to extend our view in the day time, the fhips fpread between two and three leagues from each other, and during the night, we went under an eafy fail; fo tha tit was fcarcely poffible to pafs any land that lay in the neighbourhood of our courfe: In this manner we proceeded, without any occurrence worth remarking, with a frefh breeze from the North Eaft, till the 22d, when it increafed to a ftrong gale, Mon. 23. with violent fqualls of wind and rain, which brought us under clofe reefed top-fails. At noon of the 23d, the latitude, by account, Xuef. 23. was 21° 5', and longitude ot'230 20'; at fix in the evening, being now only twenty-one leagues from the Bafhee iflands, according to the fituation in Mr. Dalrymple's map, and the weather fqually attended with a thick haze, we hauled our wind to the North North Weft, and handed the fore top-fail. During the whole of the 24th it rained in- Wed. 24. ceffantly, and the wind ftill blew a ftorm; a heavy fea rolled down on us from the North, and in the afternoon we had violent flafhes of lightning from the fame quarter. We continued upon a wind to the North North Weft till nine o'clock, when we tacked, and ftood to the South South Eaft, till four in the morning of the 25th, Thurf.25. and then wore eclipfe of the During the night, there was an moon, but the rain prevented our 1 4ia 1779 Novemb. A VQYAOE TO our making any obfervation ; unfortunately, at the time of the greateft darknefs, a fe^tnjian, in flowing the map top-maft ftay-fail, fell overboard, but laying hold of a rone, which providentially was hanging out of the fore-cha^| into the water, and the fhip being quickly brought in the wind, he was got qn board without any other hurt than a flight bruife on his fhoulder. At eight, the weather clearing,, we bore away, but the wind blew fijil fo ftrong, that we carried no other fail than the fore-fail, anjd the jn.ain top-fail clofe reeft. About this time we faw a land bird refembling a thrufh, and a fugar cane ;-at noon, the latitude, by ob fervation, was zi 35, and lonsitude •m As our fituation in longitude was now to the Weft of the Bafliee,Recording to Mr. Dairym- ple's maps, I percehjed that Captain Gor,e was governed, in the courfe he was fleering, fey the opinions of Commodore Byron and Captain Wallis, with whom he feUed when theYj^uTed thefe iflands. The former placing it nea^four degrees to the Weftward, or in longitude 3.18* 14'. In confluence of this opinion, at two we ftood to the Southward, with a view of getting into the fame parallel of latitude with the iflands, before we ran down our longitude. At fix, we were nearly in. that fituatio^ and confequently ought to hay.e been in fight of land, according to. Mr. Wallisfs account, who places the Bafhees near three degrees more to the Eaftward than Mr, Byron. The gale at this time had not in the leaft abated ; and Captain Gore, ftill conceiving that the iflands muft undoubtedly lie to the Weftward, brought the fhips to, with their heads to the North Weft, under the fore-fail and balanced mizen. At THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 4«3 At fix in the morning of the 26th; th% w^ltd 1779- having confiderably abated* we bore away Weft; ^™*™?' fet the top-fails, ararjfclet out the reefs. At rtoSfi, Frid 6 ;$I0 lartitude, by obfervation, was zi° 12', and longitude 1200 25'. We faw, this day, a flock of ducks, and many tropic birds, alfo dolphins and porpuffes, and ftill continued to patkfe"Ve- rai pumice ftones. We fpent the night Upon oar tacks, and, at fix in the morning of the 27th, again bore away Weft in fearch of the Satur. 27 Bafhees. tjjfeinow began to be a little apprehend ve, left in feapching for thofe iflands, we fhould get fb much to the Southward as to be obliged to pafs to leeward of the Pratas. In this cafe, it might hdve been exceedingly difficult fdf fuch bad fairing fhips as ours to fetch Macao, particularly fhoukB the wind continue t<|%]fow, as it now did, from the North North Eaft and North, As I had fome dofflbts whether Mr. Dalfy#tf|2t$'s chai'fs were on board the Refolution, I made fail aiid Jhakd her; and having acquainted Captain Gore with the pofition of there fhoals, and fitly a!p- prehesifiwrs of bfeing driven to the Southward, he, j||lkrmed me that ri#;fhould contiftui^fphfe courfe for the day, -as he was ftill ihf hopes of finding Admiral Byron's longitude right j and therefore ordered me to fpread a few mites to the South. At noon, the wefather became hagy; the latitude, by recfewiing, was 210 2', arid longitude 11 8° 30' ; and at fix, having got to the Weftward of the Bafhees, by Mr. Byron's account, Captain Gore hauled his wind to the Norte W8ft, under artijjlafy fail, the" wind blowing very ftrong, smd; iheTec fekig every appearance of a ditty boifterous night. At four in the morniftg- of the 28th, we faw the Refolution, then ha'f a sund 28 rhjle ahead of us, wear, and immediately perceived 4H A VOYAGE TO ceived breakers clofe under our lee. At daylight, we faw the ifland of Prata ; and at half paft fix we wore again, and ftood toward the fhoal, and finding we could not weather it, bore away, and ran to leeward. As we pafled the South fide, within a mile of the reef, we obferved two remarkable patches on the edges of the breakers, that looked like wrecks. At noon, the latitude found by double altitudes was 200 39', longitude 116° 45'. The ifland bore North three quarters Eaft, diftant three or four leagues. On the South Weft fide of the reef, and near the South end of the ifland, we thought we faw, from the mail head, openings in the reef, which promifed fafe anchorage. The Prat#fhoal is of a confiderable extent, being fix leagues from North to South, and ftretching three or four leagues to the Eaftward of the ifland,-, its limit to the Weftward we were not in a fituation to determine. The liiorth Eaft extremity we place in latitude 200 58', and longitude 1170 ; and the South Weft in latitude 200 45', and longitude 116° 44'. For the remaining part of the day we carried a prefs of fail, and kept the wind, whieli' was North Eaft by North, in order to fecure our paffage to Macao. It was fortunate, that toward evening the wind favoured us, by changing two points more to the Eaft; for had the wind and weather continued the fame as during the preceding week, I doubt whether we could have fetched that port, in which cafe we muft have born away for Batavia ; a place we all dreaded exceedingly, from the fad havock the unhealthinefs of the climate bad made in the crews of the former fhips that had been out on difcovery, and had touched there. In THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 4'f In the forenoon of the 29th, we paffed feveral J779- Chinefe fifhing boats, who eyed us with great in- ^I^_; difference. They fifh. with a large dredge net, Mon 29. fhaped like a hollow cone, having a flat iron rim fixed to the lower part of its mouth. The net is made faft with cords to the head and ftern of the boat, which being left to drive with the wind, draws the net after it, with the iron part dragging along the bottom. We were forry to find the fea covered with the wrecks of boats that had been loft, as we conjectured, in the late boiftercus weather. At noon, we were in latitude, by obfervation, 22° 1', having run one hundred and ten miles upon a North Weft courfe fince the preceding noon. Being now nearly in the latitude of the Lema Iflands, we bore away Weft by North, and, after running twenty- two miles, faw one of them nine or ten leagues to the Weftward. At fix, the extremes of the iflands in fight bore North North Weft half Weft, and Weft North Weft half Weft ; diftant from the neareft four or five leagues -, the depth of water twenty-two fathoms, over a foft muddy bottom. We now fh'ortened fail, and kept upon our tacks for the night. By Mr. Bayly's time-keeper, the Grand Lema bore from the Prata Ifland, North 6o° Weft, one hundred and fifty-three miles ; and by our run, North 570 Weft, one hundred and forty-fix miles. In the morning of the 30th, we ran along the Tuef. 30. Lema Ifles, which, like all the other iflands on this coaft, are without wood, and, as far as we could obferve, without cultivation. At feven o'clock, we had precifely the fame view of thefe iflands, as is reprefented in a plate of Lord An- fon's voyage. At nine o'clock, a Chinefe boat, which had been before with the Refolution, came along-fide, and wanted to put on board pilot, which however we 13 m declined, as it us a was our 4'6 A VOYAGE TO K'779- our bufinefs to follow!-our confort. We foon Novemb. after pa{jed the rock marked R, in Lord Anfon's "~" Plate; but, inftead of hauling up to the Northward of the grand Ladrone Ifland, as was done in the Centurion, we proceeded to leeward. It is hardly neceffary to caution the mariner not to take this courfe, as the danger is fuffici- ently obvious; for fhould the wind blow ftrong, and the current fet with it, it will be extremely difficult to fetch Macao. Indeed we might, with great fafety^by the direction of Mr. Dalrymple's map, have gone either intirely to the North of the Lema ifles, or between them, and made the wind fair for Macao. Our fears of miffing this port, and beiri|| forced to Batavia, added to the ftrong and eager defires of hearing news from Europe,^rhade us rejoice to fee the Refolution foon after fire a gun, and iqiftmer colours' as a fignal for a pilot. On repeating the fig'n^f, we faw an excellent race between four Chinefe lifP?* anc* Captain Gore, having engaged w,ith the man who arn||il firft.nto carry the'fhip to the Typa, for thirty dollars, fent me word, that, as we could eafily follow, that expence migh||be faved to us. Soon after, a fecond pilot getting on board the Refolution, infifted on conducting the fhip, and, without further ceremony, laid hold of the wheel, and began to order the fails to be trimmed. This occafioned a violent difpute, which at laft was compromifed.* by their agreeing to'»o fhares in the money. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was zx0' 57' Noft|, and longitude 1140 z' Eaft ■ the' grand Ladrone ifland extending from North Weft half North, to North ha If ? Weft, diftant four miles. The land of which Jhe bearings are here given, we conceived to be one ifland ; but afterward found the Weftern part to be the "ifland" marked z in'Mr'. Dalrymple's chart of part of the' coaft Mr THE PACIFIC OCEAN- coaft of China, &c which, "at that,time, we un~. '■ fortunately had not on board. In obedience to the inftructions given to Cap- tain#Cook by the Board of Admiralty, it now became neceffary to demand of the officers and men their Journals, and what other papers they might have in their poffeffion, relating to the hiftory of our voyage. The execution of thefe orders feemed to require fome delicacy, as well as firmnefs. I could not be ignorant, that the greateft part of our officers, and feveral of the feamen, had amufed themfelves with writing accounts of our proceedings for their own private fatisfaction, or that of their friends, which they might be unwilling, in their prefent form, to have fubmitted to the inflection of ftrangers. On the other hand, I could not, confiftently with the inftructions we had received, leave in their cuftody papers, which, either from careleffnefs or defign, might fall into the hands of printers, and give rife to fpurious and imperfect accounts of the voyage, to the difcredit of our labours, and perhaps to the prejudice of officers, who, though innocent, might be fufpected of having been the authors of fuch publications. As foon, therefore, as I had affembled the fhip's company on deck, I acquainted them with the orders we had' received, and the reafons which, I thought, ought to induce them to yield a ready obedience. At the fame time, I told them, that any papers which they were defirous not to have fent to the Admiralty, fhould be fealed up in their prefence, and kept in my own cuftody, till the intentions of the Board, with regard to the publication of the Hiftory of the Voyage, were fulfilled; after which, they fhould faithfully be reftored back to them. 4i7 779- vemb. Vol. III. 17 It il i.^err*' 4i8 1779- Novemb. A VOYAGE TO It is with the greateft fatisfaction I can relate, that my propofals met with the approbatioi3|"and ' the cheerful compliance both of the officers, and men j and I am perfuaded, that every fcrap of paper, containing any tranfactions relating to the voyage, were given up. Indeed it is doing bare juftice to the feamen of this fhip to declare, that they were the moft obedient, and the beft dif- pofed men I ever knew, though almoft all of them were very^young, and had never before ferved in a fhip of war. C H A P. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 13 hi CHAP. IX. Working up to Macao.—A Chinefe Comprador.—^ Sent on Shore to vifit the Portugueze Governor.—Effecls of the Intelligence we received from Europe.—Anchor in the Typa.—Paffage up to Canton.—Bocca fygris.-—Wampu.—Defcription of a Sampane.—Reception at the Engiifh Faclory. —Inftance of the fufpicious Char abler of the Chinefe.—Of their Mode of trading.—Of the City of Canton.—Its Size.—Population.—Number of Sampanes.—Military Force.—Of the Streets and Houfes.—Vifit to a Chinefe.—Return to Macao.—.Great Demand, for the Sea-otter Skins.'—Plan of a Voyage for opening a Fur Trade on the Weftern Coaft of America, and profecuting further Difcoveries in the Neighbourhood of Japan.—Departure from Macao.—Price of Provifions in China. *E kept working to windward till fix in i the evening, when we came to anchor, by the direction of the Chinefe pilot on board the Xu Refolution, who imagined the tide was fetting againft us. In this, however, he was much deceived ; as we found, upon making the experiment, that it fet to the Northward till ten o'clock. The next morning he fell into a fimilar miftake ; for, at five, on the appearance of flack water, he gave orders to get under way ; but the ignorance he had difcovered, having put us on our guard, we E e 2 779. veinb. ef. ■*&. cemb„ ed. 1. 420 1779- ■L'ecemb Thurf. 2 A VOYAGE TO we chofe to be convinced, by our own obfervations, before we weighed ; and, on trying the tide, we found a ftrong under-tow, which obliged us to keep faft till eleven o'clock. From thefe circumftances it appears, that the tide had run down twelve hours. During the afternoon, we kept ftanding on our tacks, between the ifland of Potoe, and the Grand Ladrone, having paffed to the Eaftward of the former. At nine o'clock, the tide beginning to ebb, we again came to anchor in fix fathoms water; the town of Macao bearing North Weft, three leagues diftant; and the ifland of Potoe South half Weft, two leagues diftant. This ifland lies two leagues to the North North Weft of the ifland marked Z in Mr. Dalrymple's chart, which we, at firft, took to be part of the Grand Ladrone. It is fmall and rocky; and off the Welt end there H faid to be foul ground, though we palfed near it without perceiving any. ^^m the forenoon of the 2d, one of the Chinefe contractors, who3are called Compradors, went on board the Refolution, and fold to Captain Gore two hundred pounds weight of beef, together with a confiderable quantity of greens, oranges, and eggs. A proportionable fhare of thefe articles was fent to the Difcovery; and an agreement made with the man to furnifh us with a daily fupply, for which, however, he infilled on being paid beforehand. Our pilot pretending he could carry the fhips no farther, Captain Gore was obliged to dif- charge him, and we were left to our own guidance. At two in the afternoon, the tide flowing, We weighed, and worked to windward ; and at feven anchored in three and a half fathoms of water, Macao b caung "V 'VCiT, thr< t**,- miles diftant. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 421 tant. Tfes fituation was, indeed, very ineli- J779- gible, being expofed to the North Eaft, and Decemb.- having fhoal water, not more than two fathoms and a half deep, to* leeward ; but as no nautical defcription is given in Lord Anfon's voyage of the harbour ipr; which the Centurion anchored, and Mr. Dalrymple's general map, which was the only one on board, was on too fmall a fcale to ferve for our direction, the fhips were obliged to remain there all night. In the evening, Captain Gore fent me on fhore to vifit the Portugueze Governor, and to requeft his affiftance in procuring refrefhments for our crews, which he thought might be done on more reafonable terms than the Comprador would undertake to furnifh them. At the fame time, I took a lift of the naval ftores, of which both veffels were greatly in want, with an intention of proceeding immediately to Canton, and applying to the fervants of the Eaft India Company, who were, at that time, refident there. On my arrival at the citadel, the fort-major <'&&■'■■ formed me, that the Governor was fick£ and not able to fee company; but that we might be affured of receiving every affiftance in their power. This, however, I underftoodtwould be very inconfiderable, as they were intirely dependent on the Chinefe, even for their daily fubfiftence. Indeed, the anfwer returned to the firft requeft I made, gave me a fufficient proof of the fallen ftate of the Portugueze power ; for, on my acquainting the Major with my defire of proceeding immediately to Canton, he told me, that they could not venture to furnifh me with a boat, till leave was obtained from the Hoppo, or officer of the cuftoms; and that the application for this purpofe muft be made to the Chinefe government at Canton. ||§§ The 422 1779- Decemf A VOYAGE TO The mortification I felt at meeting with this unexpected delay, could only be equalled by the extreme impatience with which we had fo long waited for an opportunity of receiving intelligence from Europe. It often happens, that in the eager purfuit of an object, we overlook the eafieft and moft obvious means of attaining it. This was actually my cafe at prefent; for I was returning under great dejection to the fhip, when the Portugueze officer,; who attended me, afked me, if I did not mean to vifit the Engiifh. gentlemen at Macao. I need not add with what tranfport I received the information this queflion conveyed to me; nor the anxious hopes and fears, the conflict between curiofity and appre- benfion, which paffed in my mind, as we walked toward the houfe of one of our countrymen. In this ftate of agitation, it was not furprifing, that our reception, though no way deficient in civility or kindnefs, fhould appear cold and formal. In our inquiries, as far as they related to objects of private concern, we met, as was Indeed to be expected, with little or no fatisfaction ; but the events of a public nature, which had happened fince our departure, and now, for the firft time, burft all at once upon us, overwhelmed every other feeling, and left us, for fome time, almoft without the power of reflection. For federal days we continued queftioning each other about the truth of what we had heard, -fy$\f defirous of feeking, in doubt and fufpence, for that relief and confolation, which the reality of our calamities appeared totally to exclude. Thefe fenfations were fucceeded by the moft poignant regret at finding ourfelves cut off, at fuch a diftance, from the fcene, where, we imagined, the fate of fleets and %mies was every frsoment deciding. The THE PACIFIC The intelligence we had juft received of the ftate of affairs in Europe, made us the more exceedingly anxious to haften our departure as much as poffible ; and I, therefore, renewed my attempt to procure a paffage to Canton, but without effect. The difficulty arifing from the eftablifhed policy of the country, I was now told, would probably be much increafed by an. incident that had happened a few weeks before our arrival. Captain Panton, in the Seahorfe, a fhip of war of twenty-five guns, had been fent from Madras, to urge the payment of a debt owing by the Chinefe merchants of Canton to private Britifh fubjects in the Eaft Indies and Europe, which, including the principal and compound intereft, amounted, I underftood, to near a million fterling. For this purpofe, he had orders to infift on an audience with the Viceroy of Canton, which, after fome delay, and not without recourfe being had to threats, was, at length, obtained. The anfwer he received, on the fubject of his miffion, - was fair and fatisfactory ; but, immediately after his departure, an edict was ftuck up on the houfes of the Europeans, and in the public places of the city, forbidding all foreigners, on any pretence, to lend money to the fubjects of the emperor. This meafure had occafioned very ferious alarms at Canton. The Chinefe merchants, who had incurred the debt, contrary to the commercial laws of their own country, and denied, in part, the juftice of the demand, were afraid that intelligence of this would be carried to |*ekin; and that the Emperor, who has the character of a juft and rigid prince, might punifh them with the lofs of their fortunes, if not of their lives. On the other hand, the Select Committee, to whom the caufe of the claimants was ftrongly recommended by the Prefidency of Madras, were extremely 424 i779 Decern A VOYAGE TO • tremely apprehenfive, left they fliould embroil themfelves with the Chinefe government at Can- Frids satur. 4 ton ; and, by that means, bring, perhaps, irreparable mifchief on the Company's affairs in China. For I was further informed, that the Mandarines were always ready to take occafion, even on the flighteft grounds, to put a flop to their trading ; and that it was often with great difficulty, and never without certain expence, that they could get fuch reftraints taken off. Thefe impo- fitions were daily increafing; and, indeed, I found it a prevailing opinion, in all the European factories, that they fhould foon be reduced either to quit the commerce of that country, or to bear the fame indignities to which the Dutch are fub- jected in Japan. The arrival of the Refolution and Difcovery, at fuch a time, could not fail of occafioning frefh alarms; and, therefore, finding there was no probability of my proceeding to Canton, I dispatched a letter to the Engiifh fupercargoes, to acquaint them with the caufe. of our putting into the Tygris, to requeft their affiftance in procuring me a paffport, and in forwarding the ftores we wanted, of which I fent them a lift, as expediti- oufly as poffible. 3' The next morning I was accompanied on board by our countryman, who pointing out to us the fituation of the Typa, we weighed at half paft fix, and ftood toward it-, but the wind failing, we came to, at eight, in three and a half fathoms water; Macao, bearing Weft North Weft, three miles diftant; the Grand Ladrone South Eaft by South. The Refolution here faluted the Portugueze fort with eleven guns, which were returned by the . fame number. Early on the 4th, we again weighed, and ftood into the Typa, and moored with the ftream anchor and cable to the Weftward. The THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 425 The Comprador, whom we at firft engaged n1779' with, having difkppeared with a fmall fum of yJ^Zj money, which had been given him to purchafe" provifions, we contracted with another, who continued to fupply both fhips, during our whole flay. This was done fecretly, and in the night time, under pretence, that it was contrary to the regulations or the port; but we fufpected all this caution to have been ufed with a view either of enhancing the price of the articles he furnifhed, or of fecuring to himfelf the profits of his employment, without Ipfring obliged to fhare them with the Mandarines. On the 9th, Captain Gore received an anfwer Thurf. 9. from the Committee of the Engiifh Supercargoes at Canton, in which they affured him that their beft endeavours fhould be ufed to procure the fupplies we ftood m need of, as ex'peditioufly as poffible -, and that a paffport fhould be fent for one of his officers, hoping at the fame time, that we were fufficiently acquainted with the character of the Chinefe Government, to attribute any delays, that might unavoidably happen, to their true caufe. The day following, an Engiifh merchant, from one of our fettlements in the Eaft-Indies, applied to Captain Gore for the affiftance of a few hands to navigate a veffel he had purchafed at Macao, up to Canton. Captain Gore judging this a good opportunity for me to proceed to that place, gave orders that I -fhould take along with me my Second Lieutenant, the Lieutenant of marines, and tfin feamen. Though this was not precifely the mode in which I could have wifhed to vifit Canton, yet as it was very uncertain when the paffport might arrive, and my prefence might contribute materially to the expediting of our fupplies, I did not hefitate to puf myfelf on board, hi T? rn. 10. navine 420 A VOYAGE TO '779- having Decemb. .1 at T-vr the Dilcoverv ft orders with Mr, ready for fea as Williamfon, to get foon as poffible, and to make fuch additions and alterations in her upper w@rks, as might contribute to make her more defenfible. That the feries of our aftronomical obfervations might fuffer no interruption by my abfence, I intrufted the care of continuing them to Mr. Trevenen, in whofe abilities and diligence I could repofe an intire confidence. Satur. ii. We left the harbour of Macao-oft the nth of December, and failing round the South Eaftern extremity of the ifland, we fteered to the Northward, leaving, as we paffed along, Lantao Lintin, and feveral fmaller iflands, to the right. All thefe iflands, as well as that of Macao, which lie to the llfft, are intirely without wood; the land is higjti and barren, and uninhabited, except oc- cafionally by fifhermen. Afe we approached the Bocca Tygris, which is thirteen leagues from Macao, the Chinefe coaft appearsvfo the Eaftward in fteep white cliffs; the two farts, commanding the mouth of the river, are exactly in the fame t ftate as when Lord Anfon was here ; that on the left is a fine old caftle, furrounded by a grove of trees, and has an agreeable romantic appearance. We were here vifited by an officepof the cuftoms ; on which occafion the oilier of the veffel, being apprehenfive that, if we were difcovered on board, it would occafion fome alarm, and might be attended with difagreeable confequences, begged ids to retire into the cabin below. The breadth of the riWsr above thefe forts is variable, the banks being low and flat, and fubject to be overflowed by the tide to*a great extent. The ground on each fide is level, and laid out in rice fields; but as we advanced, it rofe gradually into hills of confiderable declivity, the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 4*7 the fides of which are cut intoterraces, and plant- n1779' ed with fweet potatoes, fugarcanes, yams, plan- ecem ■' tains, and the cotton-tree. We faw many lofty pagodas, fcattered over the country, and feveral towns at a diftance, fome of which appeared to be of a confiderable fize. We did not arrive at Wampu, which is only Satur. i§, nine leagues from the Bocca Tygris, till the 18tb, our progrefs having been retarded by contrary winds and the lightnefs of the veffel. Wampu is a fmall Chinefe town, off which the fhips of the different nations, who trade here, lie, in order t(t*fake in their lading. The river, higher up, is faid by M. Sonnerat not to be deep enough to admit heavy laden veffels, even if the policy of the Chinefe had fuffered the Europeans to navi-. gate them up to Canton ; but this circumftance 1 cannot take upon me to decide on, as no ftran- ger, I believe, has been permitted to inform himfelf with certainty of the truth. The fmall iflands, that lie oppofite to the town, are allotted to the feveral factories, who have built warehoufes for the reception of the merchandize that is brought down from Canton, j From Wampu, I immediately proceeded in a fampane, or Chinefe boat, to Canton, which is about two leagues and a half higher up the river. Thefe boats are the neateft and moft convenient for paffengers I ever faw. They are of various fizes, almoft flat at the bottom, very broad upon the beam, and narrow at the head and ftern, which are raifed and ornamented ; the middle, where we fat, was arched over with a roof of bamboo, which may be raifed or lowered at pleafure; in the fiefes were fmall windows with {flutters, and the apartment was furnifhed with handfome mats, chairs, and tables. In the ftern was placed a fmall waxen idol, in a cafe of gilt leather, before is hi 4zS A VOYAGE TO If I *779- before which ftood a pot containing lighted ta- Becemk. pfirs roacje 0f <jry chips, or matches, andjgum. The hire of this boat was a Spanifh dollar. I reached Canton a little after it was dark, and landed at the Engiifh factory, where, though my arrival was very unexpected, I was received with every mark of attention and civility. The Select Committee, at this time, coaiafted of Mr. Fitzhugh the Prefident, Mr. Bevan and Mr. Rapier. They immediately gave me an account of fuch ftores as the India fhips were able to afford us; and though I have not the fmalleft doubt, that the Commanders were defirous of affifling us with every thing they could fpare, confiftently with a regard to their own fafety, and the intereft of their employers, yet k was a great difappointment to me to find in their lift fcarcely any articles of cordage or can- vafs, of both which we ftood principally in need. It was, however fome confolation to underftand, that the ftores were in readinefs for fhipping, and that the provifions we required might be had at a day's notice. Wifhing therefore to make my jftay here as fhort as poffible, I requefted the gentlemen to procure junks or boats for me the next day, with an intention of leaving Canton the following one; but I was foon informed, that a bufinefs of that kind was not to be tranfacted fo rapidly in this country [ that leave muft be firft procured from the Viceroy ; that the Hoppo, or principal officer of the cuftoms muft be applied to for chops, or permits; and that thefe favours were not granted without mature deliberation ; in fhort, that patience was an indif- penfable virtue in China ; and that they hoped to have the pleafure of making the factory agreeable to me, for a few days longer than I feemed willing to favour them with my company. Though THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 429 Thottjpptf was not tnach difpofed m relifh this 1779. compliment, yet I could not help being Jilted Peceinb. with an incident that occurred very opportunely to convince «sae of the truth of their reprefenta- tions, and of the fufpickms character of the Chinefe. The reader will recollect, that it was now about fifteen days fince Captain Gore had written to tfcseifecfory, to dljfire their affiftance in -procuring leave for one of his officers to pafs to Canton. In confequence of this application, they had engaged one of the principal Chinde merchants ofathe place, to irafereft himfelf in our favour, and to forfeit the bufinefs with the Viceroy. This perfon'^affne to viffethe Prudent, whilft we were talfcing on the fubject, and vtfifeh great 6&sfaction and complacency in his countenance acquainted him, that be had at laft fucceeded in " his applications, and that a paffport fcr one of the officers of the. Ladrone fhip (or pirate) would be ready in a few days. The Prefident irnme<iiJt-i$y told him not to give himfelf any farther trouble, as the officer, pointing to me, was already arrived. It is impioifible to defcribe the terror, which feized the old sman on hearing this intelligence. His head funk upon his breaft, and the fofa on which be cfeas fitting feook, from the violence of his agitation. Whether the Ladrone fhip was the object of his apprehenfions, or his own government, I could not difcover ; but after continuing". in this deplorable ftate a few minutes, M#. Bevan bade him not defipair, and recounted to him the manner in which 1 had paffed from Macao, the reafons of my journey to Canton, *e|ffemy wifhes to leave it as foon as poffible. Thtp&ft psfcto?-' ftancefeemed pafficul^i&'agfeeable ts-Sim, and gave me hopes, that I fhould find- him d^baily difpofed tohaffen my departure ; and yet, '^foon as he had uecovered the courage to fpeak, be began to recount the unavoidable delays that would occur 13 hi 43o A V O Y A © E TO \fjCi. occur in my bufinefs, the difficulty of gaining Decemb. admittance to the Viceroy* the jealoufies and fufpicions of the Mandarines, refpecting our real defigns, which had rifen, he faid, to an extraordinary height, from the ftrange account we had given of ourfelves. After waiting feveral-days, with great impatience, for the event of our application, without underftanding that the matter was at all advanced toward a conclufion, I applied to the Commander of an Engiifh country fhip, who was to fail on the 25th, and who offered to take the men and ft@res on board, and to lie to, if the weather fhould permit, off Macao, till we could fend boats to take them out of his fhip. At the fame time he apprized me of the danger there might be of his being driven with them out to fea. Whilft I was doubting what meafures to purfue, the Commander of another country fhip brought me a letter from Captain Gore, in which he acquainted me, that he had engaged him to bring us down from Canton, and to deliver the ftores we had procured, at his own rifk, in the Typa. All our difficulties being thus removed, I had leifure to attend to the purchafe of our provifions and ftores, which was completed on the 26th; and the day following, the whole ftock was fent on board. As Canton was likely to be the moft advantageous market for furs, I was defired by Captain Gore to carry with me about twenty fea-otter fkins, chiefly the property of our deceafed Commanders, and to difpofe of them at the beft price I could procure; a commiffion, which gave me an opportunity of becoming a little acquainted with the genius of the Chinefe for trade. Having acquainted fome of the Engiifh fupercar- goes with thefe circumftances, I defired them to recom- THE PACIFIC OCEAN." recommend me to fome Chinefe merchant of credit and reputation, who would at once offer me a fair and reafonable price. I was accordingly direcled to a member of the Hong, a fociety of the principal merchants of the place* who being fully informed of the nature of the bufinefs, ap-* peared fenfible of the delicacy of my fituation j allured me, I might depend on his integrity ; and, that, in a cafe of this fort, he fhould confider himfelf merely as an agent, without looking for any profit to himfelf. Having laid my goods before him, he examined them with great care, over and over again, and at laft told me, that he could not venture to offer more than three hundred dollars for them. As I knew from the price our fkins had fold for in Kamtfchatka, that he had not offered me one half their valu^ I found myfelf under the neceffity of driving a bargain. In my turn, I therefore demanded one thoufand ; my Chinefe then advanced to five hundred | then offered me a private prefent of tea and porcelain, amounting to one hundred more; then the fame fum in mone^ and, laftly, rofe to feven hundred dollars, on which I fell to nine hundred. Here, each fide declaring he would not recede, we parted; but the Chinefe foon returned with a lift of India goods, which he now propofed I fhould take in exchange, and which, 1 was afterward told, would have amounted in value, if honeftly delivered, to double the fum he had before offered. Finding I did not choofe to deal in this mode, he propofed as his ultimatum, that we fliould divide the difference, which, being tired of the conteil, I confented to, and received the eight hundred dollars. The ill health, which at this time I laboured under, left me little reafon to lament the very narrow limits, within which the policy of the Chinefe obliges every European at Canton to confine 43« 1779. Decemb. is hi 1 Si 432 1779. Dece A VOYAGE TO confine his curiofity. I fhould otherwife have felt exceedingly tantalized with living under the walls of fo great a city, full of objects of novelty, without being able to enter it. The account given of this place by Peres le Comte and Du Halde, are in every one's hand. The authors have lately been accufed of great exaggeration by M. Sonneratrf for which reafon the following obfervations, collected from the information with which I have been obligingly furnifhed by feveral Engiifh gentlemen, who were a long time refident at Canton, may not be unacceptable to the Public. Canton, including the old and new town, and the fuburbs, is about ten miles in circuit. With refpect to its population, if one may judge of the whole, from what is feen in the fuburbs, I fhould conceive it to falfe^onfiderably fhort of an European town of the fame magnitude. Le Comte eftimated the number of inhabitants at one million five hundred thoufand; Du Halde at one million ; and M. Sonnerat fays he has afcer- tained them to be no more than feventy-five thoufand *: Hut, as this gentleman has not favoured us with the grounds on whichlJais calculation was fiimnded; and, befides, appeals as defirous of depreciating every thing that relates to the Chinefe, as ttgt Jefuits may be of magnifying, his opinion certainly admits of fome doubt. The following circumftances may perhaps lead the reader to form a judgment with tolerable accuracy on this fubject. * J'ai "jerifie inoi-meme, avec plufieurs Chinois, la population de Canton, de la vfl|jjp de Tartare, & de celle de Sattaux, &c. Voyage Tom. II. p. 14. aux Indes, &c. Par M. Sonnerat, A Chinefe THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 433 A Chinefe houfe, undoubtedly, occupies more 1779. fpace than is ufually taken up by houfes in Eu- Decemb. rope : but the proportion fuggefted by M. Sonnerat, of four or five to one, certainly goes much beyond the truth. To this fhould be added, that a great many houfes, in the fuburbs of Canton, are occupied, for commercial purpofes only, by merchants and rich tradefmen, whofe familes live intirely within the city. On the other hand, a Chinefe family appears to con- fift, on an average, of more perfons than an , #raropean. A Mandarine, according to his rank and fubftance, has from five to twenty wives. A merchant, from three to five. One of this -Grafs at Canton, had, indeed, twenty-five wives, andifWrty-fix children; but this was mentioned to me as a very extraordinary glance. An opulent tradatman has ufually two ; and the lower -^b^l^teople very rarely mocei^n one. Their -fervants are at lea^alouble in number to thofe employed by perfons of the fame condition in .sEurhpe. If, then, we^tppofe a Chinefe family one-third larger,, and an European houfe two- thirds lefe, than each other, a Chinefe city will tcbntain only half the number of inhabitants con- -"liiined in an European town of the fame fize. According to thefe data, the city and fuburbs of Canton may probably contain about one hundred andfftfty thdwand. sWith refpect to the number of inhabited Sam- panes, 1 found different opinions were enter- • tained ; but none placing them lower than forty thoflfend. They are rnoored in rows clofe to Ytkeh other, with a narrow paffage, at intervals, for the boats to pafs up and down the river. As the Tygris, at Canton, is fomewhat wider than' the ThaftSes, at London-, and the whole river is covered in this manner for the extent of at leaft a mile ; this account of their number does not Vol. III. F f appear II is hi If iiiri. rS'.ilil 434 >779- Decemb A VOYAGE TO appear to rar, in the leaft, exaggerated ; and if it be allowed, the number of inhabitants in the Sampartes alone (for each of them contains one family), muff amount to nearly three times the number fuppofed by M. Sonnerat to be in the whole city. The military force of the province, of which Canton is the capital, amounts to fifty thoufai^' men. It is faid that twenty thoufand are flationed in and about ihe city ; and, as a proof of this, I was affured, that, on the occafion of fome difturbance that had happened at Canton, thirty thoufand men were drawn together within the fpace of a few hours. The,ftreets are long, and moft of memy narrow and irregular ; but well paved with large ftones ; and for the moft part, kept exceedingly clean. The houfes are built of brick, one ftory high, having generally two or three courts backward, in which are the ware-houfes for merchandize, and, in the houfes within the city, the apartments for the women. A very few of the meaneft fort are built of wood. The houfes belonging to the European &etorsy are built on an handfome quav, with a regular facade of two ftories toward the river, and difpofed, within, partly after the European and partly after the Chinefe manner. Adjoining to thefe are a number of houfes, belonging to the Chinefe, and hired out to the commanders of fhips, and merchants, who make an occafional ftay. As no European is allowed to bring his wife to Canton, the Engiifh fupercargoes live together, at a common table, which is kept by the company, and have each a feparate apartment, confifting of three or four rooms. The time of their refidence feldom exceeds eight months annually ; and as they are pretty con- ftaatly employed, during that time, in the fervice the Pacific ocean. vice of the company, they may fubmit, with the lefs regret, to the reftraints they are kept under. They very rarely pay any vifits within the walls of Canton, except on public occafions. Indeed, nothing gave me fo unfavourable an idea of the character of the Chinefe, as to find, that amongft fo many perfons of liberal minds, and amiable manners, fome of whom have refided in that country for near fifteen years together, they have never formed any friendfhip or focial connection. As foon as the laft fhip quits Wampii, they are all obliged to retire fo Macao ; but as a proof of the excellent police of the country, they leave all the money they poffefs in fpecie behind them, which, I was told, fometimes amounted to one hundred thoufand pounds fter- ling, and for which they had no other fecurity than the feals of the merchants of the Hong, the viceroy and Mandarines. During my flay at Canton, I was carried, by one of the Engiifh gentlemen, to vifit a perfon of the firft confequence in the place. We were received in a long room or gallery, at the upper end of which ftood a table, with a large chair behind it, and a row of chairs extending from it on each fide down the room. Being previoufly inftructed, that the point of civility confifled in remaining as long unfeated as poffible, I readily acquitted myfelf of this piece of etiquette ; after which we were entertained with tea, and fome preferred and frefh fruits. Our hoft was very fat, with a heavy dull countenance, and of great gravity in his deportment. He fpoke a little broken Engiifh and Portugueze ; and, after we had taken our refrefnment, he..£arried us about his houfe and garden; and having fhewn us all the improvements he was making, we took our leave. 43S 1779. Decemb* I F f 2 Having P 43^ A VOYAGE TO 1779- Decemb. Having procured an account of the price of provifions at Canton, as fettled for the year'§^80, which the reader will find at the end of this Chapter, I have only to obferve, that the different articles are fuppofed to be the beft of the kind; and that the natives purchafe the fame for nearly one-third lefs than the price, which in the lift is fixed only for ftrangers. I had hitherto intended, as well to avoid the trouble and delay of applying for paffports, as to fave the unneceffary expence of hiring a Sam- pane, which I underftood amounted at leaft to twelve pounds fterling, to go along with the ftores to Macao, in the country merchant's fhip Ihave before mentioned: but having received an invitation from two Engiifh gentlemen, who had obtained paffports for four, I accepted, along with Mr. Philips, their offer of places in a Chinefe boat, and left Mr. Lannyon to take care of the men and ftores, which were to fail the Sun. 26. next day. In the evening of the 26th, I took my leave of the fupercargoes, having thanked them for their many obliging favours; amongft which I mull not forget to mention an handfome prefent of tea, for the ufe of the fhips companies, and a large collection of Engiifh periodical publications. The latter we found a valuable acquifition, as they both ferved to amufe our impatience, during our tedious, voyage home, and enabled us to return not total ftrangers to what had been tranfacting in our native country. Mon. 27. /\t one o'clock, the'next morning, we left Canton, and arrived at Macao, about the fame hour Tuef. 28. the day following, having paffed down a channel, which lies to the Weftward of that by which we had come up. Uii *-**-.* During THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 437 During our abfence, a brifk trade had been '779- carrying on with the Chinefe, for the fea-otter P^"^' fkins, which had, every day, been rifing in their value. One of our feamen fold his flock, alone, for eight hundred dollars; and a few prime fkins, which were clean, and had been well preferved, were fold for one hundred and twenty each. The whole amount of the value, in fpe- cie and goods, that was got for the furs, in both fhips, I am confident, did not fall fhort of two ' thoufand pounds fterling; and it was generally fuppofed, that at leaft two-thirds of the quantity we had originally got from the Americans, were fpoiled and worn out, or had been given away, and otherwife difpofed of, in Kamtfchatka. When, in addition to thefe facts, it is remembered, that the furs were, at firft, collected without our having any idea of their real value ; that the greateft part had been worn by the Indians, from whom we purchafed them ; that they were afterward preferved with little care, and frequently ufed for bed-clothes, and other purpofes, during our cruize to the North ; and that, probably, we had never got the full value for them in China; the advantages that might be derived from a voyage to that part of the American coaft, undertaken wth commercial views, appear to me of a degree of importance fufficient to call for the attention of the Public. The rage with which our feamen were poffeffed to return to Cook's River, and, by ano- ^ ther cargo of fkins, to make their fortunes, at e^^^ one time, was not far fhort of mutiny ; and I ^^ 1*^™ muft own, I could not help indulging myfelf in \*->^ a project, which the difappointment we had fuf- fered^in being obliged to leave the Japanefe Archipelago, and the Northern coaft of China unexplored, firft fuggefted -, and, by what I conceived, that object might ftill be happily accomplifhed, mvr Urn 43« »779- Decemb. A VOYAGE TO accomplifhed, through means of the Eaft-India Company, not only without expence, but even with the profpect of very confiderable advantages. Though the fituation of affairs at home, or perhaps greater difficulties in the execution of my fcheme than I had forefeen, have hitherto prevented its being carried into effect, yet, as I find the plan in my journal, and ftill retain my partiality for it, I hope it will not be intirely foreign to the nature of this work, if I beg leave to infert it here. I propofed then, that the Company's China fhips fhould carry an additional complement of men each, making in all one hundred. Two veffels, one of two hundred and the other of one hundred and fifty tons, might, I was told, with proper notice, be readily purchafed at Canton ; and, as victualling is not dearer there than in Europe, I calculate, that they might be completely fitted out for fea, with a year's pay and provifion, for fix thoufand pounds, including the purchafe. The expence of the neceffary articles for barter is fcarcely worth mentioning. I would, by all means, recommend, that each fhip fhould have five ton of unwrought iron, a forge, and an expert fmith, with a journeyman and apprentice, who might be ready to forge fuch tools, as it fhould appear the Indians were moft defirous of. For though fix of the fineft fkins purchafed by u§, were got for a dozen large green glafs beads, yet it is well known, that the fancy of thefe people for articles of ornament, is exceedingly capricious; and that iron is the only fure commodity for their market. To this might be added, a few grofs pf large pointed cafe-knives, fome bales of coarfe woollen cloth (linen they would not accept of from us), and a. barrel or two of copper and glafs trinkets. I have THE. PACIFIC OCEAN. I have here propofed two fhips, not only for the greater fecurity of the expedition, but becaufe I think fingle fhips ought never to be fent out on difcoveries. For where rifks are to be run, and doubtful and hazardous experiments tried, it cannot be expected that fingle fhips fhould venture fo far, as where there is fome fecurity provided againft an untoward accident. The veffels being now ready for fea, will fail with the firft South Wefterly monfoon, which generally fets in about the beginning of April. With this wind they will fleer to the Northward, along the coaft of China, beginning a more accurate furvey from the mouth of the river Kyana, or the Nankin River, in latitude 300, which I believe is the utmoft limit of this coaft hitherto vifited by European fhips. As the extent of that deep gulf called Whang Hay, or the Yellow Sea, is at prefent unknown, it muft be left to the difcretion of the Commander, to proceed up it as far as he may judge prudent; but he muft be cautious not to entangle himfelf too far in it, left he fhould want time for the profecution of the remaining part of his enterprize. The fame difcretion muft be ufed, when he arrives in the Straits of Teffoi, with refpect to the iflands of Jefo, which, if the wind and weather be favourable, he will not lofe the opportunity of exploring. Having proceeded to the latitude of 510 40', where he will make the Southernmoft point of the ifland of Sagaleen, beyond which the fea of Okotfk is fufficiently known, he will fleer to the Southward, probably in the beginning of June, and endeavour to fall in with the Southernmoft ©f the Kurile iflands. Ouroop or Nadefchda, according to the accounts of the Ruffians, will furnifh 459 1779. Decemb. 13 44° A VOYAGE TO furnifh the fhips with a good harbour, where they may wood and water, and take in fuch other refrefhments as the place may afford. Toward the end of June, they will fhape their courfe for the Shummagins, and from thence to Cook's River, purchafing, as they proceed, as many fkins as they ape able, without lofing tj&p much time, fince they ought to fleer again to the Southward, and trace the coaft with great accuracy from the latitude of 560 to $0°, the fpace from which we were driven out of fight of land by contrary winds. It fhould here be remarked, that I confider the purchafe of fkins, in this expedition, merely as a feeondary object, for defraying the expence; and it cannot be doubted, from our experience in the prefent voyage, that two hundred and fifty fkins, worth one hundred dollars each, may be procured without any lofs of time ; efpecially as it is probable they will be met with along the coaft to the Southward of Cook's River. Having fpent three months on the coaft of America, they will fet out on their return to China early in the month of October, avoiding in their route, as much as poffible, the tracks of former navigators. I have now only to add, that if the fur trade fhould become a fixed object of Indian commerce, frequent opportunities will occur of completing whatever may be left unfiniflied, in the voyage of which I have here ventured to delineate the outlines. The barter which had been carrying on with the Chinefe for our fea-otter fkins, had produced a very whimfical change in the drefs of all our crew. On our arrival in the Typa, nothing could exceed the ragged appearance both of. the younger officers and feamen ; for, as our voy? age had already exceeded, by near a twelvemonth, the time it was at firft imagined we fhould remain (Tf THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 441 remain at fea, almoft the whole of our original 1779- ftock of European clothes had been long worn Decemb. out, or patched up with fkins, and the various1_ *"'"" manufactures we had met with in the courfe of our difcoveries. Thefe were now again mixed and eked out with the s;audieft filks and cottons of China. On the 30th, Mr. Lannyon arrived with the Frid. 30. ftores and provifions, which were immediately flowed in due proportion on board the two fhips. The next day, agreeably to a bargain made by Captain Gore, I fent our fheet anchor to the country fhip, and received in return the guns, which fhe before rode by. -^ Whilft we lay in the Typa, I was fhewn a garden belonging to an Engiifh gentleman at Macao, the rock, under which, as the tradition there goes, the poet Camoens ufed to fit and compofe his Lufiad. It is a lofty arch, of one folid ftone, and forms the entrance of a grotto dug out of the rifing ground behind it. The rock is overfhadowed by large fpreading trees, and commands an extenfive and magnificent view of the fea, and the interfperfed iflands, ^_ On the ijth of January, two feamen be january. longing to the Refolution found means to run Wed. n. off with a fix-oared cutter, and notwithftanding is hi diligent fearch W; made, both that and the following day, we were never able to learn any tidings of her. It was fuppofed, that thefe people had been feduced by the prevailing no- tion of making a fortune, by returning to the fur iflands. • . As we heard nothing, during our ftay in the Typa, of the meafurement of the fhips, it may be concluded-, that the point fo ftrongly conteited by the Chinefe, in Lord Anfon's time, has, 442 A VOYAGE TO 1780. nas m confequepce of his firmnefs and refolu- January. . ' r u ■ rn. j ^_t tion, never fince been minted on. The following nautical obfervations were made while we lay here : Harbour of Macao, Lat. 220 12' o" North. Long. 1130 47' o" Eaft. Anchoring place T . :". 0 '. .. _T , in the Typa.: Lat- 2-2 9' 20" North. Long. 1130 48' 34" Eaft. Mean dip of the North j pole of the magne- > 210 1' o" tic needle 3 tic needle Variation of the compafs o° 19' o"Weft. On the full and change days it was high water in the Typa at y 15™, and in Macao harbour at 5* 50™. The greateft rife was fix feet one inch. The flood appeared to come from the South Eaftward; but we could not determine this point with certainty, on account of the great number of iflands which lie off the mouth of the river of Canton. Price of Provifions at Canton, 1780. s. d. Ananas - 0 4 0 a fcore. Arrack - 0 0 8 pt r bottle Butter - 0 2 4t pt r catty* Beef, Canton ~ 0 0 M Ditto, Macao - 0 0 5t Birds-nefts _ 3 6 8 Bifcuit - 0 0 4 Beache de Mar - 0 2 ©£ * A catty is 18 Q-z.-*-apecul soo catty. Calf THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 44; i- s. d. 1780. Calf i 6 9t each. January Caravances, dried o 0 2t per catty. *-*-*"" Cabbage, Nankeen o 0 4t Curry fluff o 1 4 Coffee o 1 4 Cocoa-nuts o 0 4 each. Charcoal o 3 4 per pecul. Coxice o 1 4 per catty. Canton nuts o 0 4 Chefnuts o 0 2t Cockles o 0 34; Ducks o 0 54- Ditto, wild o 1 o-J- each. Deers finews o 2 14 per catty. Eels o 0 ^ Eggs o 2 0 ^-hundred. Fifh, common o 0 34 per catty. Ditto, beft o 0 64- Ditto falted, Nankeen o 0 94- Fruit o 0 14. Ditto, Nankeen o 2 0 Frogs - o 0 64- Flour o 0 i-if~ * 1 0 0 Fowls, capons, £3e. o 0 74- Fifh maws o 2 *§■ Geefe a O 64- Greens o O s* Grafs o O 24. jp*r bundle. Grapes o I 0* per catty. Ham o I 4 Hartfhorn 0 I 4 Hogflard o O IT Hog, alive o O 44 Kid, alive o O 44 Limes «• o O 0*. Litchis, dried o O 4 Lockfoy Q O 64- Lobchocks IS fa ^^^G 0 1780. inu'ary. A V O Y Lobchocks ' Lamp oil Lamp wick Melons Milk Ditto, Macao Muftard feed Mufhrooms, pickled Ditto, frefh Oy Iters Onions, dried Pork Pfg Paddy Pepper Pheafants Partridges Pigeons Pomegranates Quails Rabbits Rice Ditto, red Ditto, coarfe Ditto, Japan Raifins Sheep Snipes Sturgeon Ditto, fmall Sugar Salt Saltpetre Soy Spices AGE TO. £ *. d.\ - o o o o - o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o 3 o o o o o o o o 16 o o o o o o 2 I 3 o o o o I 5 o o o o I o o o o 2 6 o 4 2 o o 2 o St per catty. 8 4r each. 1 i per catty. ST 64- 8 4 4 per pecu!. 2t per catty. 7t 5t o* o±, 4 each. 9l St s£ 4 2 per catty. 2-4 't 8 o 8 each. i^- per catty. 94 4^ 3-4 !•?• I-L J4 8 S .veet- T H E P A C I F I C o C E A JN. 445 £■ s. d. 1780. Sweet-meats _ o o 64 per catty. January Sago - o o o1 ST Sallad - o o 2-4 Sharks fins - o 2 i4- ';>»■'*'- Samfui foy - o o zX- Teal . - o o 6* each. Turtle - o o 94 per catty. ^ssa,- - o 2 o Turmeric - o o 24" fc-%s\ Tamarinds - o o 8 Vinegar - o o »T Vermicelli - o o 34- Wax candles - o 3 o Walnuts - o o 4t Wood - o I 4 per pecul. Water - o 6 8 per iooB\ Rent of Poho Factory of Lunfoon Servants rice Ditto, wages £. s.' d. 400 o o per annum. 3l6 l3 4 o bo per month. - C per month for 5 I rehants. Doll. Servants wages for the feafon 20 Stewards wages - 80 per annum. Butlers ditto - 80 Fnces A VOYAGE TO Prices of Labour. £. s. d. A coolee, or porter o o 8 per day. A taylor - -005 and rice. A handicraftfman -008 A common labourer, ? , . , c > 3«. to zd. rrom J A woman's labour confiderably cheaper. CHAP. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 447 C H A P. - X. Leave the Typa.—Orders of the Court of France refpeWSng Captain Cook. — Refolutions in confe-* quence thereof.—Strike Soundings on the Macclef- field Banks.—Pafs Pulo Sapata — Steer for \ Pulo Condore.—Anchor at Pulo Condore.—Tranfaclions during our Stay.—Journey to the principal Town.—Receive a vifit from a- Mandarin. ■—Examine his Letters —Refrejhments to be procured.—Defcription, and prefent State of the Ifland. — Its Produce. — An Affertion of M. Sonnerat refuted. — Aftronomical and Nautical Obfervations. Op the 12th of January, 17So, at noon, we \7%0. unmoored, and fcaled the guns, which, J Hilary, on board my fhip, now amounted to ten ; fo ^T"""v~""" that, by means of four additional ports, we ur 'iz could, if occafion required, fight feven on a fide. In like manner, the Refolution had increafed the number of her guns from twelve to fixteen ; and, in both fhips, a flout barricade was carried round th ir upper works, and every other precaution taken to give our fmall force as refpectable an appearance as p'-flible. We thought it our duty to provide ourfelves with thefe means of defence, though we had fome reafon to believe, that the generofity of our enemies had, in a great meafiife, rendered them fuperfluous. .We were informed at Canton, 1780. January. s V A VOYAGE TO ton, that the public prints, which had arrived laft from England, made mention of inftructions having been found on board all the French fhips of war, captured in Europe, directing their commanders, in cafe of falling in with the fhips that failed under the command of Captain Cook, to fuffer them to proceed on their voyage without moleftation. 1 he fame orders were alfo faid to have been given by the American congrefs to the veffels employed in their fervice. iAs this intelligence was farther confirmed by the private letters of feveral of the fupercar- gocs, Captain Gore thought himfelf bound, in return for the liberal exceptions made in our favour, to refrain from availing himfelf of any opportunities of capture, which thefe might afford, and to preferve, throughout his voyage, the ftricteft neutrality. At two in the afternoon, having got under fail, the Refolution faluted the fort of Macao with eleven guns, which was returned with the fame number. At five, the wind dropping, the fhip miffed flays, and drove into fhallow water; but, bv carrying out an anchor, _fi»e was hauled off without receiving the fmalleft damage. The weather continuing calm, we were obliged to warp out into the entrance of the Typa, which we gained by eight o'clock, Frid. 13. and lay there till nine the next morning ; when, Pa#-) we by the help of a frefh breeze from the flood to the Southward between Potoe and Wu rig boo. At noon, we were faluted by a Swedifh fhip as fhe paffed us on her way to Europe. At four the Ladrone bore Eaft, diftant two leagues. We now fteered South half Eaft, with a frefh breeze from the Eaft, North Eaft, without any oc- Sund. 15. currence worth remarking, till noon of the 15th ; when, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 449 when, being in latitude i8°57', and longitude ^Sola?**.0 13', the wind veering to the North, we di- {^^Zlj redled our courfe half a point more to the Eaftward, in order to ilrike foundings over the Macclesfield Bank. This we effected at eight in the evening of the 16th, and found the depth of Mon. 16. water to be fifty fathoms, over a bottom of white fand and fhells. This part of the Macclesfield Shoals we placed in latitude 150 51', and longitude 1140 20'; which agrees very exactly with the pofition given in Mr. Dalrymple's map, whofe general accuracy, if it ftood in need of any fup- port, was confirmed, in this inftance by a great number of lunar obfervations, which we had an opportunity of making every day fince we left the Typa. The variation was found to be, in the forenoon, o° §0! Weft. On the 17th, we had heavy gales from the Tuef. 17. Eaft by North, with a rough tumbling fea, and the weather overcait and boifterous. On the 18th, the wind ftill continued to blow ftrong, and Wed. 18. the fea to run high, we altered our courfe to South Weft by South ; and, at noon, being in latitude 120 34', longitude 132s, we began to fleer a point more to the Weftward for Pulo Sapata, which we faw on the 1 gth, at four in the Thurf 19. afternoon, bearing North Weft by Weft, about four leagues diftant. This fmall, high, barren ifland is called Sapata, from its refemblance of a fhoe. Our obfervations, compared with Mr. .Bayly's time-keeper, place it in latitude io° 4' North, longitude 109" 10' Eaft. The gale had, at this time, increafed with fuch violence, and the fea ran fo high, as to oblige us to clofe-reef the top-fails. During the laft three days, the fhips had outrun their reckoning at the rate of twenty miles a day, and, as we could not attribute the whole of this to the effects of a following Vol. III. Gg fea, is h 45-o VOYAGE T T780. January fea, we imputed it in part to a current, xvh\c% according to my own calculations, had fet forty- two miles to the South South Weft, between the noon of the r 9th, and the noon of the 20th;, and is taken into the account in determining the fituation of the ifland. After pafling Sapata, we fteered to the Weftward ; and at midnight founded, and had ground with fifty fathoms of line, over a fine fandy bot- Frid. 20. torn. In the morning of the 20th, the wind becoming more moderate, we let out the reefs,. and fleered Weft by South for Pulo Condore. At noon the latitude was 8° 46' North, longitude ro6°45'Eaft; and at half paft twelve v/e got fight of the ifland, bearing Weft. At four, the extremes of Pulo Condore, and the iflands that lie off it, bore South Eaft and South Weft by Weft ; our diftance from the neareft iflands being two miles. We kept to the North of the iflands,. and flood for the harbour on the South Weft end of Condore, which, having its entrance from the North Weft, is the beft ffreltered during the North Eaft monfoon. At fix, we anchored^ with the beft bower, in fix fathoms, veered away two-thirds of the cable, and kept the fhip fieady with a ftream anchor and cable to the South Eaft. When moored, the extremes of the entrance of the harbour bore North by Weft, and Weft North Weft one quarter Weft ; the opening at the upper end South Eaft by Eaft three quarters Eaftj ©ur diftance from the neareft fhore a quarter of a mile. As foon as we were come to anchor, Captain Gore fired a gun, with a view of apprifmg the natives of our arrival, and drawing them toward the fhore, but without effect. Early in the morning of the 21 ft, parties were fent to cut wood, which was Captain Gore's principal motive for coming Sat. 21. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 45* coming hither. In the afternoon, a fudden guft i.78°- of wind broke the ftream-cable, by which the ^""J"^', Difcovery was riding, and obliged us to moor with the bower anchors. None of the natives having yet made their appearance, notwithftanding a fecond gun had been fired, Captain Gore thought it advifeable to land, and go in fearch of them, that no time might be loft in opening ajtrade for fuch provifions as the place could afford : with this view, he appointed me to accompany him, in the morning of the 22d ; and, as the wind at this Sund. %%. ftlfiie blew ftrong from the Eaft, we did not think *|$: *prudent to coaft in our boats to the town, which is fituated in the Eaft fide of the ifland, but rowed round the North point of the harbour. We had proceeded about two miles along the fhore, when ^Obferving a road that led into a wood, we landed. %.ere I quitted Captain Gore, taking with me a Midfhipman, and four armed failors^ and purfued the path, which feemed to point directly acrofs the ifland. We proceeded through a thick wood, up a fteep hill, to the diftance of a mile, when, after descending through a wood of the fame extent, on the other fide, we came out into a flat, open, fandy country, inter- fperfed with cultivated fpots of rice and tobacco, and groves of cabbage palm-trees, and cocoa- nut-trees. We here fpied two huts, fituated on the edge of the wood, to which we directed our courfe;. and before we came up to them, were defcried by two men, who immediately ran away from us, notwithftanding all the peaceable and fupplicating geftures we could devife. On reaching the huts, I ordered the party to {lay without, left the fight of fo many armed men fhould terrify the inhabitants, whilft I entered and reconnoitred alone. I found, in one G g 2 ®f is hi 452 1780. January. A VOYAGE TO an anc of the huts great fright, moft valuable of However, I was little time, elderly man, who was in a preparing to make off with the his effects that he could carry, fortunate enough, in a very fo intirely to difpel his fears, that he ind called to the two men who were came out, running away to return. The old man and I now foon came to a perfect underftanding. A few figns, particularly thafPmoft fignificant one of holding out a handful of dollars, and then pointing to a herd of buffaloes, and the fowls that were running about the huts in great numbers, left him without any doubts as to the real objects of our vlpt. He pointed toward a place , 'Wfiere the town ftood, and made us comprehend, that by going thither, all our wants would be fupplifd. By this time the young men, who had fled, were returned, and the old man ordered one of them to conduct us to the town, as foon as an obftacle fhould be removed, of which we were not aware. On our firft coming out of the wood, a herd of buffaloes, to the number of twenty at leaft, came running toward us, tolling up their heads, fnuffing the air, and roaring in a hideous manner. They had followed us to the huts, and ftood drawn up in a body, at a little diftance; and the old man made us underftand, that it would be exceedingly dangerous for us to move, till they were driven into the woods ; but fo enraged were the animals grown at the fight of us, that this was not effected without a good deal of time and difficulty. The men not being able to accomplifh it, we were furprized to fee them call to their affiftance a few little boys, who foon drove them out of fight. Afterward, we had occafion to obferve, that in driving thefe animals, and fecuring them, which is done by putting a rope through a hole which is made in their noftrils, little THE PACIFIC OCEAN. little boys were always employed, who could ftroke and handle them with impunity, at times when the men durft not approach them. Having get rid of the buffaloes, we were conducted to the town, which was at a mile's diftance; the road to it lying through a deep white fand. It is fituated near the fea-fide, at the bottom of a retired bay, which muft afford a fafe road-ftead during the prevalence of the South Weft mon- foons. This town confifts of between twenty and thirty houfes, built clofe together; befides fix or feven others that are fcattered about the beach. The roof, the two ends, and the fide fronting the country, are neatly conftructed of reeds; the oppofite fide, facing the fea, is intireiy open ; but, by means of a fort of bamboo fcreens, they can exclude or let in as much of the fun and air as they pleafe. We obferved, likewife, other large fcreens or partitions, for the purpofe of dividing, as occafion required, the fingle room of which the houfe, properly fpeaking, confifts, into feparate apartments. We were conducted to the largeft houfe in the town, belonging to their Chief, or, as they called him, their Captain. This houfe had a room at each end, feparated by a partition of reeds from the middle fpace, which was open on both fides, and provided with partition fcreens like the others, "i&.bad, befides, a penthoufe, projecting four or five feet beyond the roof, and running the whole length on each fide. At each end of the middle room were hung fome Chinefe paintings, repre- fenting men and women in ludicrous attitudes. In this apartment we were civilly defired to feat ourfelves on mats, and betel was prefented to us. By 7<*o. mary. IS hi 454 1780. January. A VOYAGE TO By means of my money, and pointing at different objects in fight, 1 had no difficulty in making a man, who feemed to be the principal perfon of the company, comprehend the main bufinefs of our errand ; and I as readily underftood from him, that the Chief, or Captain, wis abfent, but would foon return; and that, without his confent, no purchafes of any kind could be made. We availed ourfelves of the opportunity which this circumftance afforded us, to walk about the town ; and did not forget to fearch, though in vain, for the remains of a fort, which had been buiit by our countrymen near the fpot we were now upon, in 1702 *. On returning to the- Captain's houfe, we were forry to find that he was not yet arrived, and the more fo, as the time was almoft elapfed which Captain Gore had fixed for our return to the boat. The natives were defirous we fhould lengthen our flay; they even propofed our paffing the night there, and offered to accommodate us in the beft manner in their power. 1 had obferved, when we were in the houfe before, and now remarked it the more, that the mart I have mentioned above, frequently retired into one of the end rooms, and ftaid there fome little time, before he anfwered the queftionsthat were put to him ; which led me to fufpect that the Captain was all the time there, * The Engiifh fettled here in the year 1702, when the factory of Chufan, on the coaft of China, was broken up, and brought with them fome Mac afia r foldiers, who were birrd to affift in building a fort ; bur the prefident not fulfilling his engagement with them, they watched an opportunity, and one night murdered all the Engiifh in the fort. Thole without the fort, hearing a noife, took the alarm, and ran to their boats, very narrowly efcaping with the'ir lives, but not without much fatigue, hunger, and thirft, to the Johore dominions, where they were treated with great humanity. Some of thefe afterward went to form p fettlement at Benjar-Maffean, on the ifland of Borneo. j$afii India Diredorj, j>. 86. though, HP^y THE PACIFIC OCEAN. though, for reafons beft known to himfelf, he did not choofe to appear; and I was confirmed in this opinion, by being flopped as I was attempting to go into the room. At length, it clearly appeared that my fufpicions were well founded ; for, on our preparing to depart, the perfon who bad fo often paffed in and out, came from the room with a paper in his hand, and gave it to me to read ; and I was not a little furprizedto find it a fort -of certificate in French as folio wsi 1780'. January. Pierre Joseph George, Eveque d'Adran, Vt-„ caire Apoft. de Cochin China, &c. 6sV. Le petit Mandarin, porteur de cet ecrit, eft veritablement Envoye de la cour a Pulo Condore, pour y attendre et recevoir tout vaiffeau European qui auroit fa deftination d'approcher ici. Le Ca- pitaine, en confequence, pourroit fe fier ou pour conduire le vaiffeau au port, ou pour faire palfer les nouvelles qu'il pourroit oroire neceffaire. A S A 1-G0 M, jo d'Aout 1779. PIERRE JOSEPH GEORGE, Eveque d'Adran. We returned the paper, with many protefta- tions of our being the Mandarin's good friends; begging he might be informed that we hoped he would do us the favour to vifit the fhips, that we might convince him of it. We now took our leave, well fatisfied, on the whole, with what had paffed, but full of conjectures about this extraordinary French paper. Three of the natives offered their fervices to accompany us back, which we readily accepted, and returned by the way we came. Captain Gore felt peculiar fatisfaction at feeing us; for, as we had exceeded our time near an hour, he began to be alarmed for our 456 A V O Y A G E T O 1780. our fafety, and was preparing to march after us. He and his party had, during our abfence, been profitably employed, in loading the boat with the cabbage-palm, which abounds in this bay. Our guides were made exceedingly happy, on our prefenting them with a dollar each for their trouble, and intrufting to their care a bottle of rum for the Mandarin. One of them chofe to accompany us on board. At two in the afternoon we joined the fhips, and feveral of our fhooting parties returned about the fame time from the woods, having had little fuccefs, though they faw a great variety of birds and animals, fome of which will be hereafter noticed. At five, a proa, with fix men, rowed up to the fhip, from the upper end of the harbour, and a decent looking perfonage introduced himfelf to Captain Gore with an eafe and good breeding, which convinced us his time had been fpent in other company than what this ifland afforded. He brought with him the French paper above tranfcribed, and faid he was the Mandarin mentioned in it. He/poke a few Portugueze words, but as none of us were acquainted with this language, we were obliged to have recourfe to a black man on board, who could fpeak the Malay, which is the general language of thefe iflanders, and was underftood by the Mandarin. After a little previous converfation, he declared to us, that he was a Chriftian, and had been baptized by the name of Luco; that he had been fent hither in Auguft laft, from Sai-gon, the capital of Cochin China, and had fince waited in expectation of fome French fhips, which he was to pilot to a fafe port, not more than a day's fail hence, upon the coaft of Cochin China. We acquainted him, that we were not French, but Engiifh, and afked him, whether he 11 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. he did not know, that thefe two nations were now at war with one another. He made anfwer in the affirmative; but, at the fame time, fignified to us, that it was indifferent to him to what nation the fhips he was inftructed to wait for belonged, provided their object was to trade with the people of Cochin China. He here produced another paper, which he defired us to read. This was a letter fcaled, and directed, " To the Captains of any- European veffels that may touch at Condore." Although we apprehended that this letter was defigned for French ifefps in particular, yet as the direction included all European Captains, and as Luco was de- firous of our perilling it, we broke the feal, and found it to be written by the Bifhop who wrote the certificate. Its contents were as follows : " That having reafon to expect, by fome late intelligence from Europe, that a veffel would foon come to Cochin China, he had, in confequence of this news, got the court to fend a Mandarin (the bearer) to Pulo Condore, to wait its arrival; that if the veffel fhould put in there, the commander might either fend by the bearer an account to him of his arrival, or truft himfelf to the Mandarin, who would pilot him into a well-fheltered port in Cochin China, not more than a day's fail from Condore; that fhould he choofe to remain in Condore, till the return of the meffenger, proper interpreters would be fent back, and any other affiftance, which a letter fhould point out, be furnifhed ; that it was unneceffary to be more particular, of which the captain h'imfelf muft be fenfible." This letter had the fame date as the certificate and was returned to Luco again, without any copy being taken. From this letter, and the whole of Luco's converfation, there remained little doubt, that it was a French fhip he was to expect; at the fame time 457 hi -458 1780. January. the reader by refpecting the ifland. I fhall id. 23. A VOYAGE TO time we found he would be glad not to lofe his errand, and had no objection to become our pilot. We could not difcover from the Mandarin, the exact object and bufinefs which the veffel he was waiting for intended to piStfecute in Cochin China. It is true, that our interpreter, the black, was extremely dull and ftupid, and I fhould therefore be forry, with fuch imperfect means of information, to run the rifk of mifleading any conjectures of my own, object of Luco's vifit to this only add, that he told us the' French fhips might perhaps have put into Tir- «on, and from thence fail to Cochin China ; and, as he had received no intelligence of them, he thought this moft likely to have been the cafev- Captain Gore's inquiries were next directed to find out what fupplies could be obtained from the ifland. Luco faid, that he had two buffaloes of his own, which were at our fervice ; and that there were plenty on the ifland, which might be purchafed for four or five dollars-5!* head ; but finding that Captain Gore thought that fum exceedingly moderate, arffi would willingly give for them a much greater, the price was afterward raifed upon -Ms to feven and eight dollars. Early in the morning of the 23d, the launches of both fhips were fent to the town, to fetch the buffaloes which we had given orders to be purchafed ; but they were obliged to wait, till it was high-water, as they could at no other time get through the opening at the head of the harbour. On their arrival at the village, they found the furf breaking on the beach with fuch force, that it was with the utmoft difficulty each launch brought a- buffaloe on board in the and the officers, who were fent on gave it as their opinion, that between evening, this fervice nclcnce of the furf, ind the fiercenefs of the THE PACIFIC O.CEAN. 459 the buffaloes, it would be extremely imprudent i78°- to attempt bringing any more off in this way. January. We had purchafed eight, and were now at a lofs in what manner to' proceed to get them on board. We could kill no more than was juft neceffary for the confumption of one day, as in this climate meat will not keep till the next. After confulting with Luco, it was concluded, that the remainder fhould be driven through the wood, and over the hill down to the bay, where Captain Gore and I had landed the day before, which being fheltered from the wind, was more free from furf. This plan was accordingly put in execution -, but the untractablenefs and prodigious ftrength of the buffaloes, rendered it a tedious and difficult operation. The method of conducting them was, by palling ropes through their noftrils, and round their horns; but having been once enraged at the fight of our men, they became fo furious, that they fometimes broke the trees, to which we were often under the neceflity of tying them ; fometimes they tore afunder the cartilage of the noilril, through which the ropes ran, and got loofe. On thefe occafions, all the exertions of our men, to recover them, would have been ineffectual, without the affiftance of fome young boys, whom thefe animals would permit to approach them, and by whofe little managements their rage was foon appeafed. And when, at length, they were got down to the beach, it was by their aid, in twifting ropes round their legs, in the manner they were directed, that we were enabled to throw them down, and by that means to get them into the boats. A circumftance, refpecting thefe animals, which I thought no lefs fingular than this gentlenefs toward, and, as it fhould feem, affection for little children, was, that they had not I A VOYAGE TO Rot been twenty-four hours on board, before they became the tameft of all creatures. I kept two of them, a male and female, for a confiderable time, which became great favourites with the failors, and thinking that a breed of animals of fuch ftrength and fize, fome of them weighing, when dreffed, feven hundred pounds weight, would be a valuable acquifition, I was inclined to have brought them with me to England ; but my intention was fruftrated by an incurable hurt that one of them received at fea. Frid, zB. It was not till the 28th, that the buffaloes were all got on board f however, there was no reafon to regret the time taken up by this fervice, fince, in the interim, two wells of excellent water had been difcovered, of which, as alfo of wood, part of the fhips companies had been employed in laying in a good fupply ; fo that a fhorter flop would be neceffary, for replenifh- ing our flock of thefe articles, in the Strait of Sunda. A party had likewife been occupied in drawing the feine, at the head of the harbour, where they took a great many good fifh ; and another party, in cutting down the cabbage-palm, which was boiled and ferved out with the meat. Befides this, having been able to procure only a fcanty fupply of cordage at Macao, the repairing of our rigging, was become an object of conftant attention, and demanded all our fpare time. Pulo-Condore is high and mountainous, and furrounded by feveral fmaller iflands, fome of which are lefs than one, and others two miles diftant. It takes its name from two Malay words, Pulo fignify'mg an ifland, and Condore a calabafh, of which it produces great quantities. It is of the form of a crefcent, extending near eight miles from the Southernmoft point, in a North THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 461 North Eaft direction ; but its breadth no where 1780. exceeds two miles. From the Wefternmoft ex--!8"""'"'. tremity, the land trends to the South Eaft for about four miles -, and oppofite to this part of the coaft there is an ifland, called, by Monfieur D'Apres *, Little Condore, which runs two miles in the fame direction. This pofition of the two iflands affords a fafe and commodious harbour, the entrance into which is from the North Weft. The diftance between the two oppofite coafts is three quarters of a mile, exclusive of a border of coral rock, which runs down along each fide, extending about one hundred yards from the fliore. The anchorage is very good, from eleven to five fathoms water, but the bottom is fo foft and clayey, that we found great difficulty in weighing our anchors. Toward the bottom of the harbour there is {hallow water for about half a mile, beyond which the two iflands approach fo near each other as to leave only a paffage at high water for boats. The moft convenient place for watering is at a beach on the Eaftern fide, where there is a fmall ftream which furnifhed us with fourteen or fifteen tons of water a day. This ifland, both with refpect to animal and vegetable productions, is confiderably improved fince the time when Dampier vifited it. Neither that writer, nor the compiler of the Eaft India Directory, make mention of any other qua- drupedes than hogs, which are faid to be very fcarce, lizards, and the guanoes ; and the latter, on the authority of Monfieur Dedier, a French engineer, who furveyed the ifland about the year 172,0, fays, that none of the fruits and efculent plants, fo common in the other parts of is Neptune Oriental. India, A VOYAGE TO India, are to be found here, except watermelons, a few potatoes, fmall gourds, chibbols (a fmall fpecies of onion), and little black beans. At prefent, befides the buffaloes, of which we Underftood fhere were feveral large herds, we purchafed from the natives fome remarkably fine fat hogs, of the Chinefe breed. They brought us three or four of a wild fort; and our fportf- men reported, that they frequently met wt$r their tracks in the woods, which alfo abound with monkies and fquirrels, but fo fhy, that it was difficult to fhoot them. One fpecies of the fquirrel was of a beautiful fhining black colour i and another fpecies ftriped brown and white. This is called the flying-fquirrel, from being provided with a thin membrane, refemlsltng a bat's wing, extending on each fide the belly, from the neck to the thighs, which, on ftretching out their legs, fpreads, and enables them to fly from tree to tree, at a confiderable diftance. Lizards were in great abundance ; but I do not know that any of us faw the guano, and another animal defcribed by Dampier* as refembling the guano, only much larger. Amongft its vegetable improvements, I have already mentioned the fields of rice we paffed through; and plantains, various kinds of pom- pions, cocoa-nuts, oranges, fhaddocks, and pomegranates, were alfo met with ; though except the plantains and fhaddocks, in no great abundance. It is probable, from what has been already, faid, relative to the Bifhop of Adran, that the French have introduced thefe improvements into the ifland, for the purpofe of making it a more convenient refrefhing ftation for any of their fhips that may be bound for Cambodia, or Cochin China. * Vid. Dampier, Vol. i. p. 392. Should THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 463 Should they have made, or intend to make, any »78°- fettlement in thofe countries, it is certainly well January; fituated for that purpofe, or for annoying the " s' "*' trade of their enemies, in cafe of war. Our fportfmeh were very unfuccefsful in their purfuit of the feathered game, with which the woods are well flocked. One of our gentlemen had the good fortune to fhoot a wild hen ; and all the fhooting parties agreed that they heard the crowing of the cocks on every fide, which they defcribed to be like that of our common cock, but fhriller ; that they faw feveral of them on the wing, but that they were exceedingly fby- The hen that was fbot was of a fpeckled colour, and of the fame fhape, though not quite fo large, as a full grown pullet of this country. Monfieur Sonnerat has entered into a long dif- fertation, to prove that he was the firft perfon who determined the country to which this moft beautiful and ufeful bird belongs, and denies that Dampier met with it here. The land in the neighbourhood of the harbour is a continued high hill, richly adorned with a variety of fine tall trees, from the fummit to the water's edge. Among others, we obferved what Dampier calls the tar-tree * ; but obferved none that were tapped, in the manner he defcribes. The inhabitants, who are fugitives from Cambodia and Cochin China, are not numerous. They are of a fhort ftature, and very fwarthy, and of a weak and unhealthy afpect; but, as far as we could judge, of a gentle difpofition. We remained here till the 28th of January ; Fn'd. 1%. and, at taking leave of the Mandarin, is hi Cc un Gore, at his own requeft, gave him a letter of * Dampier, Vol. i. p- 390. recommendation 464 1780. January. A VOYAGE TO recommendation to the commanders of any other fhips that might put in here ; to which he added a handfome prefent. He likewife gave him a letter for the Bifhop of A%an, together with a telefcope, which he begged might be prefented to him as a compliment for the fervices he had received, through his means, at Condor@*W 8° 40' 00" North. The harbour at Pulo Condore is in latitude Longitude, deduced from ^ a great number of lunar > 1060 18' 46''Eaft, obfervations, ) Dip of the North pole of) o0 g the magnetic needle, 3 Variation of the compafs, High water, at the full moon, 4h 16m apparent time. o° and 14' Weft. change of the From this time the water continued for twelve hours, without any vifjble alteration, viz. till i6h 15™ apparent time, when it began to ebb; and at 22h 15™ apparent time, it was low water. The change, from ebbing to flowing, was very quick, or in lefs than 5m. The water rofe and fell feven feet four inches perpendicular ; and every day the fame whilft we continued there. C H A P. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 46j Afflg&! CHAP. XI. Departure from Pulo Condore.—Pafs the Straits of Banc a.—View of the Ifland of Sumatra.—Straits ' of Sunda.— Occurrences there. - the Ifland of Cracatoa.—Prince's of the Climate of Java.—Run Good Hope.—Tranfaclions there.' Falfe Bay.- Refleclions. -Paffage — DefcripSpn of Ifland.—Effecls to the Cape of Defcription of the Orkneys. ■— General kN the 28th day of January 1780, we un- g moored ; and, as foon as we were clear of January, the harbour, fteered South South Weft for Pulo •——v—-» Timoan. On the 30th, at noon, the latitude, Friday28. by obfervation, being 50 o' North, and longi- un • 3°" tude 1040 45' Eaft, we altered our courfe to South three quarters Weft, having a moderate breeze from the North Eaft, accompanied by fair weather. At two in the morning bf the 31ft, we M0n. xu had foundings of forty-five fathoms, over a bottom of fine white fand ; at which time our latitude was 40 4' North, longitude 1040 29' Eaft, and the variation of the compafs o° 31' Eaft. At one in the afternoon, we faw Pulo Timoan ; and, at three, it bore South South Weft three quarters Weft, diftant ten miles. This ifland is high and woody, and has feveral fmall ones lying off to the Weftward. At five, Pulo Puifang was feen bearing South by Eaft three quarters Eaft ; and, at nine, the weather being thick and Vol. III. H h hazy, '66 A VOYAGE T O 1780. hazy, and having out-run our reckoning frorfi January. tjie effe^ 0f forne current, we were clofe upon Pulo A or, in latitude 20 46' North, longitude 1040 37' Eaft, before we were well aware of it, which obliged us to haul the wind to the Eaft South Eaft. We kept this coiirfe till midnight, and then bore away South South Eaft for the Straits of Banca. February. On the ift of February, at noon, our latitude, Tuefd. 1. by obfervation, was i° 20' North, and the longitude, deduced from a great number of lunar obfervations taken in the courfe of the preceding twelve hours, 1050 Eaft. At the fame time, the longitude, by Mr. Bayly's time-keeper corrected, was 105^ 15' Eaft. We now fteered South by Eaft; and, at fun-fet* having fine clear weather, faw Pulo Panjang ; the body of the ifland bearing Weft North Weft, and the fmall iflands, lying on the South Eaft of it, Weft half South, feven leagues diftant. Our latitude, at this time, was o° 53' North. Wedn. 2. Cm the 2d, at eight in the morning, we tried for foundings, continuing to do the fame every hour, till we had paffed the Straits of Sunda, and found the bottom with twenty-three fathoms of line. At noon, being in latitude, by ob&f vation, o° 22' South, longitude 1050 14'Eaft, and our foundings twenty fathoms, we came in fight of the little iflands called Dominis, which lie off the Eaftern part of Lingen; and which bore from North 6z° Weft, to North, 8o° Weft, five leagues diftant. At this time we paffed a great deal of wood, drifting on the fea •, and, at one o'clock, we faw Pulo Taya, bearing South Weft by Weft, diftant feven leagues. It is a fmall high ifland, with two round peaks, and two detached rocks lying offittothe Northward. When abreaft of this ifland, we had foundings of fifteen fathoms. During this and the preceding THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ceding day, we faw great quantities of a reddifh iftfc coloured fcum or fpawn, floating on the water, February. in a Southerly direction. •At day-light, on the 3d, we came in fight of Thurf. the Three Iflands ; and, foon after, of Mono- pin Hill, on .the ifland of Banca. At noon, this hill, which forms the North Eaft point of the entrance of the Straits, bore South Eaft half South, diftant fix leagues ; our latitude, by obfervation, being i° 48' South, and longitude 1050 3' Eaft, the foundings feventeen fathoms* and no perceivable variation in the compafs. Having got to the Weftward of the fhoal, called Frederic Endric, at half paft two we entered the Straits, and bore away to the South- / ward ; and, in the afternoon, Monopin Hill bearing due Eaft, we determined its latitude to be 2° 3' South, the fame as in Monf. D'Apres' map, and its longitude 1050 18' Eaft. At nine, a boat came off from the Banca fhore, and having rowed round the fhips, went away again. We hailed bet* in the Malaye tongue to come on board, but received no anfwer. At midnight, finding a ftrong tide againft us,"we anchored in twelve fathoms, Monopin Hill bearing Hforth 290 Weft. On the 4th, inthe morning, after experienc- Friday 4 ing fo&e difficulty in weighing our anchors, owing to the fliff tenacious quality of the ground, we proceeded with the tide down the Straits; the little wind we had from the Northward dying away as the day advanced. At noon, there being a perfect calm, and the tide making againft us, we dropt our anchor in thirteen fathoms water, about three miles from what is called the Third Point, on the Sumatra fhore ; Monopin Hill bearing North 540 Weft. The latitude, by obfervation, was %° 22' South, longitude 1050 38' Eaft. At H h 2 three, 468 A V O Y A G T O 1780. three, in the afternoon, we weighed and ftood February. on tj^-ough the Straits with a light breeze ; and, "~v " at eight, were abreaft of the Second Point, and paffed it within two miles, in feventeen fathoms water, a fufficient proof, that this point may be bordered upon with fafety. At midnight, we again came to anchor, on account of the tide, in thirteen fathoms, Mount Permiffang, on the ifland of Banca, bearing North 70 Eaft, and the Firft Point South 540 Eaft, diftant about three leagues. Saturd. 5. In the morning of the 5th, we weighed, and kept on to the South Eaft ; and, at ten, paffed a fmall fhoal, lying in a line with Lufepara and the Firfl Point, at the diftance of five miles from the latter. At .noon, the ifland of Lufepara, bearing South, 570 | Eaft, four miles diftant, we determined its latitude to be 30 io'f South, and longitude 1060 15' Eaft. The difference of longitude between the ifland Lufepara, which lies in the South entrance of the Straits of Banca, and Monopin Hill, which forms one fide of the entrance from the North, we found to be $5', xnihich is only two miles lefs than what is given in BMpres' chart. In paffing thefe Straits, the coaft of Sumatra :ft3ay be approached fomewhat clofer than that of Banca. At the diftance of two or three miles fijftm the fhore, there are ten, eleven, twelve, or thirteen fathoms, free from rocks or fhoals ; however, the lead is the fureft guide. The country is covered with wood down to the water's edge, and the fhores arefo low, that the fea overflows the land, and waffo.es the trunks of the trees. To this flat and marfhy fituation of the fhore, we may attribute thofe thick fogs and vapours, which we perceived, every morning, not without dread and horror, hanging over the ifland, till they were difperfed by the rays of the fun. The THE PACIFIC OCEAN. The fhores of Eanca are much bolder, and the country inland rifes to a moderate height, and r appears to be well wooded throughout. We often faw fires on this ifland #uring the nighttime ; but none on the oppofite fliore. The tide runs through the Straws at" the rate of between two and three knots an hour. In the morning of the 6th, we paffed to the Su Weftward of Lufepara, at the diftance of four or five miles ; generally carrying foundings of five and fix fathoms water, and never lefs than four. We afterward fteered South by Eaft -, and having brought Lufepara to bear due North, and deepened our water to feven fathoms, we altered our courfe to South by Weft, keeping the lead going, and hauling out a little, whenever we fhoal- ed our water. The foundings on the Sumatra fide we ftill found to be regular, and gradually fhoaling, as we approached the fhore. At five in the afternoon we faw the Three Sifters, bearing South by Weft half Weft; and, at feven, we came to an anchor in ten fathoms, about eight miles to the North of the jflands. The weather was clofe and fultry, with light winds, generally from the North Weft j but fometimes varying round as far as the North Eaft ; and, during the night, we obferved much lightning over Sumatra. We weighed, the next morning at five, and Mo at eight were clofe in with the Sifters. Thefe are two very fmall iflands, well covered with wood, lying in latitude 50 o'' ■% South, longitude 1060 12' Eaft, nearly North and South from each other, and furrounded by a reef of coral rocks ; the whole circumference of which is about four or five miles.' At noon we got fight of the ifland of Java to the Southward ; the North Weft extremity of which (Cape St. Nicholas) bor id. 6. <r outh ; North Mane le Sumatra fhore, hi mi 1 south OYAGE TO ■ i78»- South 27" Weft, and the Sifters North, 270 Eaft, ^ebruar-^-diftant four leagues; our latitude was 50 21' "~"""v""
Ult vv Cltern D0unaai7> itaitward to fcafter IUand. In the inftances marked with a Star, liberty has been taken tafenarate the Article f™m rh^ Nnmw.n r
@en, "Page 252 numbered as 2 Other copies: http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/858621524"@en ; edm:hasType "Books"@en, "Travel literature"@en ; dcterms:identifier "FC3821.243 .A1 1784a"@en, "II-0126-i-V03"@en ; edm:isShownAt "10.14288/1.0314554"@en ; dcterms:language "English"@en ; edm:provider "Vancouver : University of British Columbia Library"@en ; dcterms:publisher "Dublin : H. Chamberlaine, W. Watson, Potts, Williams, Cross, Jackson, Moncrieffe, Walker, Jenkin, Burnet, Wilson, Wogan, Exshaw, Vallance, Beatty, White, Whitestone, Burton, Byrne, Mills, J. Porter, Stewart, Wallace, Higly, Cash, Herey and McKenzie"@en ; dcterms:rights "Images provided for research and reference use only. For permission to publish, copy, or otherwise distribute these images please contact digital.initiatives@ubc.ca."@en ; dcterms:source "Original Format: University of British Columbia. Library. Rare Books and Special Collections. FC3821.243 .A1 1784a"@en ; dcterms:subject "Voyages around the world"@en, "Northwest, Pacific"@en, "Discovery & exploration"@en, "Northwest Passage"@en, "Oceania--Discovery and exploration"@en, "Northeast Passage"@en, "Pacific Coast (North America)"@en ; dcterms:title "A voyage to the Pacific Ocean : undertaken, by the command of his Majesty, for making discoveries in the northern hemisphere. To determine the position and extent of the west side of North America; its distance from Asia; and the practicability of a northern passage to Europe. Vol. III"@en ; dcterms:type "Text"@en .