CONTENTdm
British Columbia Historical Books Collection
King, James, 1750-1784
Cook, James, 1728-1779
"--A voyage...illustrated with maps and charts, from the original drawings made by Lieut. Henry Roberts, under the direction of Captain Cook. Published by the order of the lords commissioners of the Admiralty." --Strathern, G.M., & Edwards, M.H. (1970). Navigations, traffiques & discoveries, 1774-1848: A guide to publications relating to the area now British Columbia. Victoria, BC: University of Victoria. p. 63.
xcviii, 421 pages : frontispiece ; 23 cm
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ppwlHIBBWKjifiHffi L '^&^SmmMi!li s^tmffiwzrt/tTws H / VOYAGE T O T H E PACIFIC OCEAN. UNDERTAKEN, BY THE COMMAND OF HIS MAJESTY, FOR MAKING Difcoveries in the Northern Hemisphere, The Position and Extent of theWEST Side of North Ame itsDisTANCE from Asia ; and the Practicability of a Northern Passage to Europe. Captains COOK, CLERKE, and GORE, In his Majesty's Ships the RESOLUTION and DISCO VERY. In the Years 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, and 1780. IN THREE VOLUMES. VOL. I. and II. written by Captain JAMES COOK, F.R.S. VOL. III. by Captain JAMES KING, LL.D. and F.R.S. . Illuftrated with Maps and Charts, from the Original Drawings made by Lieut. Henry Roberts, under the Direaion of Captain Cook. Publifhed by Order of the Lords Commiffioners of the Admiralty. VOL. I. DUBLIN: Printed for H. Chambbrlaine, W. Watson, Potts, Wm Cross, Jackson, Moncrieffe, Walker, Jenkin, Burn Wilson, Wogan, Exshaw, Vallance, Beatty, White, Whitestone, Burton, Byrne, Mills, J. Porter, Stewart, Wallace, Higly, Cash, Herey audMc. Kenzie. M.DCC.LXXX /^ooi3 F X%t4>Z v. i v./ CONTENTS O F T H E FIRST VOLUME. Introduction. Page i Infcription to the Memory of Captain James Cook. xciii Lift of the Plates. xcvii B O O'K I. Tranfa&ions from the Beginning of the Voyage till our Departure from New Zealand. CHAP. I. JfARlOUS Preparations for the Voyage. — Omai's Behaviour on embarking. — Obferva- tions for determining the Longitude of Sheer nefs, and the North Foreland.—Paffage of the Refolu- tion from Deptford to Plymouth. — Employments there. — Complements of the Crews of both Ships, and Names of the Officers.—Obfervations to ftx the Longitude of Plymouth.—Departure of the Refolution. Page t I CHAP. II. Paffage of the Refolution to Teneriffe.—Reception there.—-Defcription of Santa Cruz Road.~-*Re~ frejhments to be met with.—Obfervations for fixing the Longitude of Teneriffe.-—Some Account of the Ifland. — Botanical Obfervations. *— Cities of Santa Crux and Lagitna.—Agriculture.—-Air and Climate.—Commerce.—Inhabitants. 14. CHAP. III. Departure from Teneriffe.—Danger of the Ship near Bonavifta.*~Ifle of Mayo.—Port Pray a. — Precautions againji the Rain and fultry Weather in A 2 ~ the CONTENTS. the Neighbourhood of the Equator.—Poftion of the Coaft of Brazil. — Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope.—Tranfatlions there.—Junclion of the Difcovery.—Mr. Anderfon's Journey up the Country.—A ftronomual Obfervations.—Nautical Remarks on the Paffage. from England to the Cape, •with regard to the Currents and the Variation. 29 CHAP. IV. The two Ships leave the Cape of Good Hope.—two Iftands, named Prince Edwardm feen, and their Appearanse defcrihed.—Kerguelen s Land vijit- ed.—Arrival in Chriftmas Harbour.—Occurrences there.—Defeription of it. 51 C H A P. V. Departure from Chriftmas Harbour. —Range along the Coaft, to difcover its Pofition and Extents- Several Promontories and Bays, and a Peninfula, deferibed and named. — Danger from Shoals. —■ Another Harbour and a Sound.—Mr. Anderfon's Obfervations on the natural Productions, Animals, Soil, &V. of Kerguelen''s Land. 70 CHAP. VI. Paffage from Kerguelen1 s to Van Diemen's Land. —Arrival in Adventure Bay. — Incidents there. —Interviews with the Natives.—Their Perfons and Drefs defcrihed. ■— Account of their Behaviour. — Table of the Longitude, Latitude, and Variation.—Mr. Anderfdn's Obfervations on the natural Produtlions of the Country, on the Inhabitants, and their Language. g 1 CHAP. VII. The Paffage from Van Diemen's Land to New Zealand. — Employments in Qiteen Charlotte's Sound—Tranfatlions with the Natives there.— Intelligence about the Maffacre of the Adventure's Boat's Crew.—Account of the Chief who headed the Party on that Occafton.—Of the two 1 young ^, CONTENTS. young Men who embark to attend Omai. — Various Remarks on the Inhabitants.—Aftronomical and Nautical Obfervations. 118 CHAP. VIII. Mr. Anderfon's Remarks on the Country near §$ueen Charlotte's Sound. — The Soil.— Climate.—iVea- ther.—Winds.—Trees.—Plants.—Birds. — Fifh. —Other Animals.—Of the Inhabitants.—Defcrip- tion of their Perfons.—Their Drefs.—Ornaments. Habitations.—Boats. — Food and Cookery.—Arts. —IVeapons.—Cruelty to Prifoners.—Various Cuf- toms.—Specimen of their Language. i45 BOOK II. From leaving New Zealand, to our Arrival at Otaheite, or the Society Iflands. CHAP. I. Profecution of the Voyage.—Behaviour of the Two New Zealanders on board. — Unfavourable fVinds.—An lfland called Mangeea difcovered. —The Coaft of it examined.—Tranfatlions with the Natives. — An Account of their Perfons, Drefs, and Canoe. — Defcription of the lfland. —A Specimen of the Language.—Difpofition of the Inhabitants. 167 CHAP. II. The Difcovery of an lfland called IVateeoo. — Its Coafts examined. — Vifits from the Natives on board the Ships.—Meff. Gore, Burney, and An- derfon, with Omai, fent on Shore.—Mr. Anderfon's Narrative of their Reception.—Omai's Expedient to prevent their being detained.—His meeting with fome of his Countrymen, and their dif- trefsful Voyage. — Farther Account of IVateeoo, and of its Inhabitants. 180 CHAP. CONTENTS. CHAP. III. Wenooa-ette, or Otakootaia, vifited. ■— Account of that lfland, and of its Produce. — Hervey's lfland, or Terougge mou Attooa, found to be in- . habited.—Tranfatlions with the Natives.—Their Perfons, Drefs, Language, Canoes. — Fruitlefs Attempt to land there. — Reafons for hearing away for the Friendly Iflands. — Palmerfton's lfland touched at.—Description of the two Places where the Boats landed.—-Refrejhments obtained there. — Conjetlures on the Formation of fuch low Iflands.—Arrival at the Friendly Iflands. 205 CHAP. IV. Intercourfe with the Natives of Komango, and other Iflands.—Arrival at Annamooka. — Tranfatlions there.—Feenou, a principal Chief, from Tongata- boo, comes on a Vifit.-'—The Manner of his Reception in the lfland, and on board. — Inflames of the pilfering Difpqfltion of the Natives. — Some Account of Annamooka.—The Paffage from it to Hapaee. 225 C H A P. V. Arrival of the Ships at Hapaee, and friendly Reception there. — Prefents and Solemnities on the Occaflon.—Single Combats with Clubs.—Wreft- ling and Boxing Matches.— Female Combatants. — Marines exercifed. — A Dance performed by Men.— Fireworks exhibited. — The Night-entertainments of Singing and Dancing particularly defcrihed. 242 CHAP. VI. Defcription of Lefooga. —Its cultivated State.—Its Extent.—Tranfatlions there.—A Female Ocu- lift.—Singular Expedients for fbaving off the Hair.—The Ships change their Station.—A remarkable Mount and Stone,—Defcription of Hoo^ |||ptS laiva. CONTENTS. laiva.—Account of Poulaho, King of the Friendly Iflands.—Refpetlful Manner in which he is treated by his People.—Departure from the Hapaee Iflands.—Some Account of Kotoo.—Return of the Ships to Annamooka.—Poulaho and Feenou meet.—Arrival at Tongataboo, 256 CHAP. VII. Friendly Reception at Tongataboo.—Manner of dif- tributing a baked Hog and Kava to Poulaho's Attendants. — The Obfervatory, &c. eretled. —• The Village where the Chiefs refide, and the adjoining Country, defcrihed.'—Interviews with Ma- reewagee, and Toobou, and the King's Son.—A grand Haiva, or Entertainment of Songs and Dances, given by Mareewagee. — Exhibition of Fireworks. — Manner of IVreftling and Boxing. —Diftribution of the Cattle. — Thefts committed by the Natives.—Poulaho, and the other Chiefs, confined on that Account. — Poulaho's Prefent, aud Haiva. 278 CHAP. VIII. Some of the Officers plundered by the Natives. — Afijhing Party.—A Vijit to Poulaho.—A Fiatoo- ka defcrihed.—Obfervations on the Country Entertainment at Poulaho's Houfe.—His Mourning Ceremony.—Of the Kava Plant, and the Manner of preparing the Liquor.—Account of Onevy, a little lfland.—One of the Natives wounded by a Sentinel.—Meffrs. King and Anderfon vifit the King's Brother.—Their Entertainment.—Another Mourning Ceremony. —- Manner of paffing the Night. — Remarks on the Country they paffed through. — Preparations made for failing. — An ' Eclipfe of the Sun, imperfetlly obferved.—Mr. Anderfon's Account of the lfland^ and its Pro- dutlions. 309 CHAP. CONTENTS. CHAP. IX. A grand Solemnity, called Natche, in Honour of the King's Son, performed.—The Proceffions and other Ceremonies, during the fir ft Day, defcrihed. —The Manner of pafftng the Night at the King's Houfe.—Continuation of the Solemnity, the next Day. — Conjetlures about the Nature of it — Departure from Tongataboo, and Arrival at Eooa. — Account of that lfland, and Tranfatlions there. 336 CHAP. X. Advantages derived from vifiting the Friendly Iflands. — Beft Articles for Traffic. — Refreshments that may be procured. — 'The Number of the Iflands, and their Names. —■ Keppel's and Bqfcawen's Iflands belong to them.—Account of Vavaoo—of Hamoa—of Feejee.—Voyages of the Natives in their Canoes.—Difficulty of procuring exatl Information. — Perfons of the Inhabitants of both Sexes.—Their Co-lour.—Difeafes.-— Their general Charatler. — Manner of wearing their Hair—of puncluring their Bodies.'—Their Clothing andOmaments.—PerfonalCleanlinefs.^^ C H A P. XI. Employments of the Women, at the Friendly Iflands. —Of the Men. —~ Agriculture. — Conftrutlion of their Houfes. — Their working Tools. — Cordage, and fifhing Implements.—Mufical Inftruments.— Weapons.—Food, and Cookery.—Amufements.— Marriage. — Mourning Ceremonies for the Dead. —Their Divinities.—Notions about tie Soul, and a future State.—Their Places of Worjhip.—Government.—Manner of paying Obeif-ance to the King.—Account of the Royal Family.-—Remarks on their Language, and a Specimen of it.—Nautical, and other Obfervations. 390 INTRODUCTION. TH E fpirit of difcovery, which had long animated the .European nations, having, after its arduous and fuccefsful exertions, during the fifteenth and fixteenth centuries, gradually fub- fided, and for a confiderable time lain dormant* began to revive in Great Britain in the late reign * | and recovered all its former activity, under the cherifhing influence, and munificent encouragement, of his prefent Majefty. Soon after his acceflion to the throne, having happily clofed the deftructive operations of war, he turned his thoughts to enterprifes more humane, but not lefs brilliant, adapted to the feafon of returning peace. While every liberal art, and ufeful ftudy, flourifhed under his patronage at home, his fuperintending care was extended to fuch branches of knowledge, as required diftant examination and inquiry; and his fhips, after bringing back viclory and conquefl: from every quarter of the known world, were now employed * Two voyages for difcovering a North Weft paffage, through tludfon's Bay, were then performed; one under the command of Captain Middleton, in his Majefty's fhips the Furnace, and the Difcovery Pink, in 1741, and 174a. _ The other under the direction of Captains Smith and Moore, in the fhips Dobbs anet California, fitted oyt by fubfcription, in 1746, and 1J47. Vol, I. a in INTRODUCTION. m opening friendly communications with its hitherto unexplored receffes. In the profecution of an object fo worthy of the Monarch of a great commercial people, one voyage followed another in clofe fucceflion ; and, we may add, in regular gradation. What Byron* had begun, Wallis -f and Carteret J foon improved. Their fuccefs gave birth to a far more extenfive plan of difcovery, carried into execution, in two fubfequent voyages, conducted by Cook §. And that nothing might be left unattempted, though much had been already done, the fame Commander, whofe profeffional fkill could only be equalled by the perfevering diligence with which he had exerted it, in the eourfe of his former refearches, was called upon, once more, to re- fume, or rather to complete, the furvey of the globe. Accordingly, another voyage was undertaken in 1776 ; which though laft in the order of time, was far from being the leaft confiderable, with refpect to the extent an<|: importance of its objects; yet, ftill, far lefs fortunate than any of the former, as thofe objects were not accomplifh- * Captain, now Admiral, Byron, had, under his command, the Dolphin and Tamer. He failed in June 1764, and returned in May 1766. -f- Captain Wallis had, under his command, the Dolphin and Swallow. He failed in Auguft 1766, and returned, with the Dolphin, in May 1768. J The 'Swallow, commanded by Captain Carteret, having been feparated from Wallis, and, by keeping a different route, having made different difcoveries, this may be confidered as a diftiniSt voyage. The Swallow returned to England in March 1769. § Captain Cook, in the Endeavour, failed in Auguft 1768, and Teturnedin July 1771. In his fecond voyage, he had the Refolution and Adventure under his command. They failed from England in July 177a, and returned on the 30th of July 1775. i INTRODUCTION. ed, but at the expence of the valuable life of its Conductor. When plans, calculated to be of general utility, are carried into execution with partial views, and upon interefted motives, it is natural to attempt to confine, within fome narrow circle, the advantages which might have been derived to the world at large, by an unreferved difclofure of all that had been effected. And, upon this principle, it has too frequently been confidered as found policy, perhaps, in this country, as well as amongft fome of our neighbours, to affect to draw a veil of fe- crecy over the refuJt of enterprifes to difcover and explore unknown quarters of the globe. It is to the honour of the prefent reign, that more liberal views have been now adopted. Our late voyages,-; from the very extenfive objects propofed by them, could not but convey ufeful information to every European nation ; and, indeed, to every nation, however remote, which cultivates commerce, and is acquainted with navigation: and that information has moft laudably been afforded. The fame enlarged and benevolent fpirit, which ordered thefe feveral expeditions to be undertaken, has alfo taken care that the refuk of their various difcoveries mould be authentically recorded. And the tranfactions of the five firfl voyages round the world having, in due time, been communicated *, under the authority of his Ma- jefty's naval Minifter; thofe of the iixth, which, befides revifiting many of the former difcoveries in the Southern, carried its operations into * The account of the four firft of thefe .voyages, compiled by Dr. Hawkefworth, from the Journals of the feveral Commanders, was publifhed in 1772, in Three V " and Captain Cook's own account of the fifth, ii Volu n Two a 2 untrodden INTRODUCTION. untrodden paths in the Northern hemifphere, are*- under the fame fanction, now fubmitted to the Public in thefe Volumes. One great plan of nautical inveftigation having been purfued throughout, it is obvious, that the feveral voyages have a clofe connection, and that an exact recollection of what had been aimed at, and effected, in thofe that preceded, will throw confiderable light on our period. With a view, therefore, to affift the Reader in forming a juffc eftimate of the additional information conveyed by this Publication, it may not be improper to lay before him a fhort, though comprehen- five, abftract of the principal objects that had been previoufly accomplifhed, arranged in fuch a manner, as may ferve to unite, into one point of view, the various articles which lie fcattered through the voluminous Journals already in the bands of the Public j thofe compiled by Dr. Hawkefworth; and that which was written by Captain Cook himfelf. By thus fhewing what had been formerly done, how much ftill remained for fubfequent examination, will be more apparent ; and it will be better underftood on what grounds, though the fhips of his Majefty had already circumnavigated the world five different times, in the eourfe of about ten> years, another voyage fhould ftill be thought expedient. There will be a farther ufe in giving fuch an abftraft a place in this Introduction. The plan of difcovery, carried on in fo many fucceffive expeditions, being now, we may take upon us to fay, in a great meafure completed; by fumming up the final refult, we (hall be better able to do juftice to the benevolent purpofes it was defign- ed to anfwer ; and a folid foundation will be laid, INTRODUCTION. on which we' may build a fatisfactory anfwer to a queftion, fometimes afked by a peevifh refinement, and ignorant malevolence, What beneficial confequences, if any, have followed, or are likely to follow, to the difcoverers, or to the difcovered, to the common interefts of humanity, or to the increafe of ufeful knowledge, from all our boafted attempts to explore the diftant receffes of the globe ? The general object of the feveral voyages round the world, undertaken by the command of his Majefty, prior to that related in this work, was to fearch for unknown tracts of land that might exift within the bofom of the immenfe expanfe of ocean that occupies the whole Southern hemi- fphere. Within that fpace, fo few refearches had been made, before our time, and thofe few refearches had been made fo imperfectly, that the refult of them, as communicated to the world in any narration, had rather ferved to create uncertainty, than to conveyjnformation ; to deceive the credulous, rather than to fatisfy the judicious inquirer ; by blending the true geography of above half the fuperficies of the earth, with an endlefs variety of plaufible conjectures, fuggefted by ingenious fpeculation ; of idle tales, handed down by obfcure tradition ; or of bold fictions, invented by deliberate falfehood. It would have been very unfortunate, indeed, if five different circumnavigators of the globe, fome of them at leaft, if not all, in tracks little known, and lefs frequented, had produced no difcoveries, to reward the difficulties and perils unavoidably encountered. But the following review will furnifh the moft fatisfadory proofs, that his Majefty's in- ftru&ions have been executed with ability ■, and that INTRODUCTION. that the repeated vifus of his fhips to the Southern hemifphere, have very coniiderably added to our flock of geographical knowledge. I. The South Atlantic Ocean was the firft fcene of our operations, Falkland's Iflands had been hitherto barely known to exift; but their true po- fition and extent, and every circumftance which could render their exiftence of any confequence, remained abfolutely undecided, till Byron vifited them in 1764. And Captain Macbride, who followed him thither two years after, having circumnavigated their coafts, and taken a complete furvey, a chart of Falkland's Iflands has been conflicted, with fo much accuracy, that the coafts of Great Britain, itfelf, are not more authentically laid down upon our maps. How little: was really known of the iflands in the South Atlantic, even fo late as the time of Lord Anfon, we nave the moft remarkable proofs, in the Hiftory of his voyage. Unavoidably led into mif- take, by the imperfect materials then in the pof- fefiion of the world, he had confidered Pepys's lfland, and Falkland lfles, as diftinct places, diftant from each other about five degrees of latitude *. Byron's refearches have rectified this capital error ; and it is now decided, beyond all contradiction, that future navigators will mifpend their time, if they look for Pepys's lfland in latitude 470; it being now certain, that Pepys's lfland is no otfer than thefe; iflands of Falkland \. * See Lord Anfon's Voyage, quarto edition, p. 91. •f Thefe are Captain Cook's words, Pre/ace to his Voyage, p. 14.; and the evidence, on which he forms this judgment, may fe m»* «^ft f« Biii.uwi.w, Journal of Byron's Voyage, Vol. ,3,24—51,52, 53,54- Behdej INTRODUCTION. Befides the determination of this confiderable point, other lands, fituated in the South Atlantic, have been brought forward into view. If the ifle of Georgia had been formerly feen by La Roche, in 1675, and by Mr. Guyot, in the fhip Lion, in 1756, which feems to be probable, Captain Cook, in 1775, has made us fully acquainted with its ex- *#Qttfand true pofition; and, in the fame year, he added to the map of the world Sandwich Land, hitherto not known to exift, and the moft Southern difcovery that has been ever accomplifhed *. II. Though the Strait of Magalhaens had been frequently vifited, and failed through, by fhips of different nations, before our time, a careful examination of its bays, and harbours, and headlands; of the numerous iflands it contains, and of the coafts, on both fides, that inclofe it; and an exact account of the tides, and currents, and foundings, through its whole extent, was a talk, which, if Sir John Narborough, and others, had not totally omitted, they cannot be faid to have recorded fo fully, as to preclude the utility of future inveftigation. This talk has been ably and effectually performed by Byron, Wallis, and Carteret ; whofe tranfactions in this Strait, and the chart of it, founded on their obfervations and difcoveries, are a moft valuable acceffion to geography. III. If the correct information, thus obtained, about every part of this celebrated Strait, fhould deter future adventurers from involving themfelves in * See the Chart of Difcover Voyage, Vol. ii. p. aio. INTRODUCTION. the difficulties and embarraffineftls of a labyrinth, now known to be fo intricate, and the unavoidable fource of danger and delay, we have the fatisfac- tion to have difcovered, that a fafer and moreDests peditious entrance into the Pacific Ocean, may be reafonably depended upon. The paffage round Cape Horn, has been repeatedly tried, both from the Eaft and from the Weft, and ftript of its terrors. We^fhall, for the future, be lefs difcouraged by the labours and diftreffes experienced by the fquadrons of Lord Anfon and Pizarro, when we recollect, that they were obliged to attempt the navigation of thofe feas at an unfavourable feafon of the year; and that there was nothing very formidable met with there, when they were traverfed by Captain Cook. To this diftinguifhed navigator was referved the . honour of being the firft, who, from a feries of the moft fatisfactory obfervations, beginning at the Weft entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens, and carried on, with unwearied diligence, round Tierra del Fuego, through the Strait of Le Mai re, has conftructed a chart of the Southern extremity of America, from which it will appear, how much former navigators muft have been at a lofs to guide themfelves, and what advantages will now be enjoyed by thofe who fhall hereafter fail round Cape Horn, IV. As the voyages of difcovery, undertaken by his Majefty's command, have facilitated the accefs of fhips into the Pacific Ocean, they have alfo greatly enlarged our knowledge of its contents. Though the immenfe expanfe ufually diftinguifhed by this appellation, had been navigated by Europeans INTRODUCTION. ropeans for near two centuries and a half*, by far the greater part of it, particularly to the South of the equator, had remained, during all this time, unexplored. The great aim of Magalhaens,^and of the Spa- . xiiards in general, its firft navigators, being merely to arrive, by this paffage, at the Moluccas, and the other Afiatic Spice Iflands, every intermediate part of the ocean that did not lie contiguous to their Weftern track, which was on the North fide of the equator, of eourfe efcaped due examination ; and if Mendana and Quiros, and fome namelefs conductors of voyages before them f, by deviating from this track, and holding a Wefterly one from Callao, within the Southern tropic, were fo fortunate as to meet with various iflands there, and fo fanguine as to confider thofe iflands as marks of the exiftence of a neighbouring Southern continent; in the exploring of which they flattered themfelves they fhould rival the fame of De Gama and Columbus ; thefe feeble efforts never led to any effectual difclofure of the fuppofed hidden mine of the New World. On the contrary, their voyages being conducted without a judicious plan, and their difcoveries being left imperfect without immediate fettlement, or fubfequent examination, and fcarcely recorded in any well-authenticated or accurate narrations, had been almoft forgot; or were fo obfeurely remembered, as only to ferve the purpofe of producing perplexing de- ' bates about their fituation and extent; if not to fuggeft doubts about their very exiftence. * Magalhaen's Voyage was undertaken in 1519. ■f- See the particulars of their difcoveries in Mr. Dalrymple"; valuable Collection of Voyages in the South Pacific Ocean. INTRODUCTION. It feems, indeed, to have become a very early object of policy in the Spanifh councils, to difcon- tinue and to difcourage any farther se&arches in that quarter. Already mafters of a larger empire on the continent of America than they could conveniently govern, and of richer mines of the precious metals on that continent than they could convert into ufe, neither avarice nor ambition furnifhed reafons for aiming at a frefh acceffion of dominions. And thus, though fettled all along the fhores of this Ocean, in a fituation fo commodious for profecuting difcoveries throughout its wide extent, the Spaniards remained fatisfied with a coaft- ing intercourfe between their own ports; never ftretching acrofs the vaft gulph that feparates that part of America from Afia, but in an unvarying line of navigation; perhaps in a fingle annual (hip, between Acapulco and Manilla. The tracks of other European navigators of the South Pacific Ocean, were, in a great meafure, regulated by thofe of the Spaniards; and confe- quently limited within the fame narrow bounds. With the exception, perhaps, of two inftances only, thofe of Le Maire and Roggewein, no fhips of another nation had entered this fea, through the Scait of Magalhaens, or round Cape Horn, but for the purpofesof clandeftine trade with the Spaniards, or of open hoftility againft them : purpofes which could not be anfwered, without precluding any probable chance of adding much to our ftock of difcovery. For it was obvibufly incumbent on all fuch adventurers, to confine their cruifes within a moderate diftance of the Spanifh fettlementsj in the vicinity of which alone they could hope to exercife their commerce, or to execute their predatory and military operations. Accordingly, foon after emerging from the Strait, or completing INTRODUCTION. pleting the circuit of Tierra del Fuego, they began to hold a Northerly eourfe, to the uninhabited ifland of Juan Fernandez, their ufual fpot of rendezvous and refrefhraent.,! And, after ranging along the continent of America, from Chili to California, they either reverfed their eourfe back to the Atlantic; or, if they ventured to extend their voyage, by ftretching over to Afia, they never thought of trying experiments in the unfrequented and unexplored parts of the Ocean ; but chofe the beaten path (if the expreffion may be ufed), within the limits of which it was likely that they might meet with a Philippine galleon, to make their voyage profitable to&Semfelves; but could have little profpect, if they had been defirous, of making it ufeful to the world, by gaining any acceffion of new land to the Map of the World. By the natural operation of thefe caufes, it could not but happen, that little progrefs fhould be made toward obtaining a full and accurate knowledge of the South Pacific Ocean. Something, however, had been attempted by the induftrious, and once enterprifing Dutch; to whom we are indebted for three voyages, undertaken for the purpofes of difcovery ; and whofe refearches, in the Southern latitudes of this Ocean, are much better afcer- tained than are thofe of the earlier Spanifh navigators above mentioned. Le Maire and Schouten, in 1616, and Rogge- wein, in 1722, wifely judging, that nothing new could be gained by adhering to the ufual paffage on the North fide of the line, traverfed this Ocean from Cape Horn to the Eaft Indies, croffing the South tropic-, a fpace which had been fo feldom, and jp ineffectually vifited ; though popular belief, fortified by philofophical fpeculation, expected there to reap the richeft harveft of difcovery. 6 Tafman, INTRODUCTION. Tafman, in 1642, in his extenfive circuit from Batavia, through the South Indian" Ocean, entered the South Pacific, at its greateft diftance from the American fide, where it never had been examined before. And his range continued from a high Southern latitude, Northward to New Guinea, and the iflands to the Eaft of it near the equator, produced intermediate difcoveries, that have rendered his voyage memorable in the annals of navigation. But ftill, upon the whole, what was effected in thefe three expeditions, ferved only to fhew how large a field was referved for future and more perfe- vering examination. Their refults had, indeed, enabled geographers to diverfify the vacant uniformity of former charts of this Ocean, by the infertion of fome new iflands. But the number, and the extent of thefe infertions were fo inconfiderable, that they may be faid to appear. Rari, nantes in gurgite vafto. And, if the difcoveries were few, thofe few were made very imperfectly. Some coafts were approached, but not landed upon; and paffed without waiting to examine their extent, and connection with thofe that might exift at no great diT- tance. If others were landed upon, the vifits were, in general, fo tranfient, that it was fcarcely poffible to build upon a foundation, fo weakly laid, any information that could even gratify idle cu- riofity; much lefs fatisfy philofophical inquiry, or contribute greatly to the fafety, or to the fuccefs of future navigation. Let, us, however, do juftice to thefe beginnings of difcovery. To the Dutch we mtift, at leaft, afcribe the merit of being our harbingers, though we afterward went beyond them in.the 1 road INTRODUCTION. road they had firft ventured to tread. And with what fuccefs his Majefty's fhips have, in their repeated voyages, penetrated into the obfcureft re- ceffes of the South Pacific Ocean, will appear from the following enumeration of their various and very extenfive operations, which have drawn up-the veil that had hitherto been thrown over the geography of fo great a proportion of the globe. i. The feveral lands, of which any account had'been gwen, as feen by any of the preceding navigators, Spanifh or Dutch, have been carefully looked j foMif and moft of them (at leaft fuch as feemed to be of any confequence) found out and vifited; and not vifited in a curfory manner* but every means ufed to correct former rniftakes, and to fupply former deficiencies, by making accurate inquiries afhore, and taking fkilful furveys of their coafts, by failing round them. Who has not heard, or read, of the boafted Tierra Auftralia del Efpiritu Santo of Quiros ? But its bold preten- fions to be a part of a Southern continent, could not ftandllaptain Cook's examination, who failed round it, and afiigned it its true pofition and mo- .-;;«§§iite bounds, in the Archipelago of the New Hebrides *. 2. Befides perfecting many of the difcoveries of their predeceffors, our late navigators have enriched geographical knowledge with a long catalogue of their own. The Pacific Ocean, within the South tropic, repeatedly traverfed, in eve*y . direction, was found to fwarm with a feemingly endlefs profufion of habitable fpots of land. Iflands fcattered through the amazing fpace of near four- * Bougainville, in 1768, did no more than difcover that the land here was not connected, but compofed of iflands. Captain Cook, in 1774, explored the whole group. See Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 96. fcore INTRODUCTION. fcore degrees of longitude, feparated at various distances, or grouped in numerous clufters, have, a£ their approach, as it were, ftarted into exiftence % and fuch ample accounts have been brought home concerning them and their inhabitants, as may ferve every ufeful ptirpofe of inquiry ; and, to ufe Captain Cook's words, who bore fo confiderable a fhare in thofe difcoveries, have left little more to he done in that part*. 3. Byron, Wallis, and Carteret, had each of them contributed toward increafing our knowledge of the iflands that exift in the Pacific Ocean, within the limits of the Southern tropic; but how far that ocean reached to the Weft, what lands bounded it on that fide, and the connection of thofe lands with the difcoveries of former navigators, was ftill the reproach of geographers, and remained abfolutely unknown, till Captain Cook, during his firft voyage in 17701, brought back the moft fa- tisfactory decifion of this important queftion. With a wonderful perfeverance, and confummate fkill, amidft an uncommon combination of perplexities and dangers, he traced this coaft near two thoufand miles from the 3 8° of South latitude, crofs the tropic, to its Northern extremity, within ro°4- of the equinoctial, where it was found to join the lands already explored by the Dutch, in feveral voyages from their Afiatie fettlements, and to which they have given the name of New Holland. Thofe difcoveries made in the laft century, before Tafman's voyage, had traced the North and the Weft coafts of this land; and Captain Cook, by his extenfive operations on its Eaft fide, left little to be done toward completing the full circuit of it. Between Cape Hicks, in latitude 38°, where his examination of this coaft began; and that part * Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 239. + See Hawkefworth's Collection, Vol. iii. INTRODUCTION. of Van Diemen*js. Jtjand, from whence Tafman took his departure, was not above fifty-five leagues. It was highly probable, therefore, w they were connected ; though Captain Cook cautioufly fays, that he could mot determine whether his New South Wales, that is, Jm. Eaft Coaft of New Holland, joins to Van Diemen's Land, or no *. But what was thus left undetermined by the operations of his firft voyage, wa^'in the eourfe of his fecond, foon cleared up; Captain Furneaux, in the Adventure, during his feparation from the Refolution (a fortunate feparation as it thus turned out) in 1773, having explored Van Diemen's Land, from its Southern point, along the Eaft coaft, far beyond Tafman's ftation, and on to the latitude 38°, where Captain Cook's examination of it in 1770 had commenced f. It is no longer, therefore, a doubt, that we have now a full knowledge of the whole circumference of this vaft body of land, this fifth part of the world (if I may fo fpeak), which our late voyages have difcovered to be of fo amazing a magnitude, that, to ufe Captain Cook's words, it is of a larger extent than any other country in the known world, that does not bear the name of a continent £. 4. Tafman having entered the Pacific Ocean, after leaving Van Diemen's Land, had fallen in with a coaft to which he gave the name of New Zealand. The extent of this coaft, and its pofi- tion in any direction but a part of its Weft fide, which he failed along in his eourfe Northward, being left abfolutely unknown, it had been a favourite opinion amongft geographers, fince his time, that New Zealand was a part of a Slifthern con- p.483. * Hawkefworth, Vol + Cook's Voyage, Vc ™ , . j -Hawkefworth, Vol. iii. p, 62 tinenr, r INTRODUCTION. tinent, running North and South, from the $£a t§ the 64° of South latitude, and its Northern coaft,- ftretching crofs the South Pacific to an immenfe diftance, where its Eaftern boundary had been feen by Juan Fernandez, half a century before. Captain Cook's voyage in the Endeavour, has totally deftroyed this fuppofition. Though Tafman muft ftill have the credit of having firft ken New Zealand; to Captain Cook folely belongs that of having really explored it. He fpent near fix months upon its coafts in 1769 and 1770*, circumnavigated it completely, and afcertained its extent and divifion into two iflands -f. Repeated vifits fince that, have perfected this important difcovery, which, though now known to be no part of a Southern continent, will, probably, in all future charts of the world, be diftinguifhed as- the largeft iflands that exift in that part of the Southern hemifphere. 5. Whether New Holland did or did not join to New Guinea, was a queftion involved in much doubt and uncertainty, before Captain Cook's failing between them, through Endeavour Strait, decided it. We will not hefitate to call this an important acquifition to geography. For though- the great fagacity and extenfive reading of Mr. Dalrymple, had difcovered fome traces of fuch a paffage having been found before J, yet thefe traces were fo obfeure, and fo little known in the prefent age, that they had not generally regulated the conftruction of our charts; the Prefident De * From October 6, .1769, to March 31, 177*. •{■ Its Southern extremity nearly in latitude 470, and its Northern in 35°!.. See Captain Cook's chart, in Hawkefworth, Vol. ii. p. s8i. % See the track of Torre, in one of Quiros's fhips, in 1606, between New Holland and New Guinea, upon Mr. Dalrymple's Chart of Difcoveries in the South Pacific Oc«an, before 1764. Broffes, INTRODUCTION. Brofies*, who wrote in 1756, and was well v^fi!^- in geographical refearches, had not been able to fatisfy himfelf about them; andMonf. de Bougainville, in 1768, who had ventured to fall in with the South coaft of New Guinea, near ninety leagues to the Weftward of its South Eaft point, chofe rather to work thofe ninety leagues directly to windward, at a time when his people were in fuch dif- trefs for provifions as to eat the feal-fkins from off the yards and rigging, than to run the rifk of finding a paffage, of the exiftence of which he enter- ta«ed the ftrongeft doubts, by perfevering in his Wefterly courfe-f\ Captain Cock therefore in this part of his voyage (though he modeftly difcfatftXS all merit J), has eftabliftied, beyond future contro- verfy, a fact of effential fervice to navigation, by opening if not a new, at leaft an unfrequented and forgotten communication between the South Pacific and Indian--Oceans. 6. One more difcovery, for which we are indebted to Captain Carteret, as fimilar in fome degree to that Jaft mentioned, may properly fucceed it, in this enumeration. Dampier, in failing round what was fuppofed to be part of the coaft of New Guinea, difcovered it to belong to a feparate ifland, to which he gave the name of New Britain. But that the land which he named New Britain, fhould be fub-divided again into two feparate large iflands, with many fmaller intervening, is a point of geo- * M. de Broffes fays of New Guinea: " C'eft une longue ifle, " ou prefqu' ifle, fi elle touche a la Nouvelle Holjande." Navigations aux Terres Auftrales, Tom. i. p. 434. \ " Le trifle etat ou nous etions reduits, ne nous permettoit " de ehereher en faifant route a l'oueft, un paffage au fud de la " Nouvelle Guinee, qui nous frayat par le Golfe de la Carpen- " terie une route nouvelle & courte aux iles Moluques. Rien " n'etoit a la •ve'rite plus probL'matique que Vexiftence decepaf- " fage" Voyage autour du Monde, p. 259. J Hawkefworth, Vol. iii.p. 660, Vol, I. b graphical INTRODUCTION. graphical information, which, if ever traced by any of the earlieft navigators of the South Pacific, had not been handed down to the prefent age : and its having been afcertained by Captain Carteret, deferves to be mentioned as a difcovery, in the ftricteft fenfe of the word ; a difcovery of the utmoft importance to navigation. St. George's Channel, through which his fhip found a way, hetween New Britain and New Ireland, from the Pacific into the Indian Ocean, to ufe the Captain's own words *, " is a much better and fhorter paffage, whether from the Eaftward or Weftward, than round all the iflands and lands of the Northward f." V. The voyages of Byron, Wallis, and Carteret were principally confined to a favourite object of difcovery in the South Atlantic, and though ac- ceffions to geography were procured by them in the South Pacific, they could do but little toward giving the world a complete view of the contents of that immenfe expanfe of ocean, through which they only held a direct track, on their way homeward by the Eaft-Indies. Cook, indeed, who was appointed to the conduct of the fucceeding voyage, had a more accurate examination of the South Pacific intruded to him. But as the improvement of aftronomy went hand in hand, in his inftruc- tions, with that of geography, the Captain's foli- * Hawkefworth, Vol. i. p. 563. •f" The pofition of the Solomon Iflands, Mendana's celebrated difcovery, will .no longer remain a matter in debate amongft geographers, Mr. Dalrymple having, on the moft fatisfactory evidence, proved, that they are the clufter of iflands which comprizes what has fince been called New Britain, New Ireland, &c. The great light thrown on that clufter by Captain Carteret's difcovery, is a ftrong confirmation of this. See Mr. Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages, Vol. i. p, 16—ai. 2, citude INTRODUCTION. citude to arrive at Otaheite time enough toobferve the tranfit of Venus, put it out of his power to deviate from his direct track, in fearch of unknown lands that might lie to the South Eaft of that ifland. By this unavoidable attention to his duty, a very confiderable part of the South Pacific, and that part where the richeft mine of difcovery was fup- pofed to exift, remained unvifited and unexplored, during that voyage in the Endeavour. To remedy this, and to clear up a point, which, though many of the learned were confident of, upgifeprinciples of fpeculative re^foning, and many of the unlearned admitted,-, upg-r^ what they thought to be credible teftimony, was ftillJi&d- to be very problematical, if not absolutely grouncjl||L by others who were lefs fanguine qrr.m$re incredulous; hisMa- jefty, always r.eadyrto forward every inquiry that can add to the flock of interefting knowledge in every branch, ordered another. expedition to be underta.li^ert^^M^fignal fervices performed by Captain Cook, -during his firftjj voyage, of which we have given the outlines, gpirked him as the fitted perfon to finifh an examination which he had already fo lkilfullyx.executed in part. Accordingly, he was feffer^$ $0772, with two fhips, the Refolution and Adventure, upon the moft enlarged plan of difcovery known in 't^^pa'a-ls-'of navigation. For he was tnftructed not only to circumnavigate the whole globe, but to circumnavigate it in high Southern latitudes, making fuch traverfes, from time to time, into every corner of the Pacific Ocean not before examined, as mighfc#nally and effectually refolve the much agitated queftion about the exiftence of a Southern continent, in any part of the Southern hemifphere accefiible by navigating^! The ample acceftions to geography, by the difcovery of many iflands within the Tropic in the b 2 Pacific INTRODUCTION. Pacific Ocean, in the eourfe of this voyage, which was carried on, with lingular perfeverance, between three and four years, have been already ftated to the reader. But the general fearch now made, throughout the whole Southern hemifphere, as being the principal object in view, hath been referv- ed for this feparate article. HISBj-indeed, we are not to take notice of la;r^' that have been difco- fiikM; but of feas failed through, where lands had been fuppofed to exift. In tracing the route of the Refolution and Adventure, throughout the South Atlantic, the South Indian, and the South Pacific Oceans that environ the globed alid combining it with the route of the Endeavc^r^'^e^eceive what may be called ocular demonftr&ion, that Captain Cook, in his perfevering refearches, failed over many an extenfive continent, which, thodpf fuppofed to have been feen by formW navigators, at the approach of his fhips, funk into the bofom of the o&W? and, likelWikbdfelefs fabric of alv^Bn, left not a rack behind*. It has been urged, that the'-exiffJeflSe* of * It mulVSS-Cbferved, however, thdf^M^Hiieur le Mohrefy^tfik the Memoirs of the French Academy rf Sciences for ;^5§jj pleads for the exiftence of Cape Circumcifion, feen by Bouvetin 1738, which our Englifh navigator fougnlr for in vain, and fup-- pofes to have been only an ifland of ice. Mr. Wales, in m p8|5^[ read before the Royal Society, very forcibly replied to M. le Monier's objections; and the attack having been repeated, he has drawn up a more extended defence of thWTg^rl^wOa'pfcain Cook's Journal, which he hath very obligingly cornipvaji&ited, and is here inferted. Arguments, tending to prove that Captain £bok fought forCapt Circumcifion under the proper Meridian ; and that the Objections -which home been made to his ConduSi, in this re/pell, are not -well /-- ' ' In the Memoirs offtfte-lioyal Aca^M^o£258$Sft£fss at Paris for 1776, printed in 1779, M. Le Monier has made fome remarks, with a defign to (hew that Captain Cook fought the land, ufually called Cape Circumcifion, in a wrong place; and that, inftead ©f looking for it nndsr the nu&Klaan of q3£ or I3° °f Eau: l°n-... gitude, I N T R O D U^CjsT I O N. of a Southern continent is neceffary to preferve an equilibrium between the two hemifpheres. But however md which, gitude, he ought to have looked for it under a meridian which is only 30, or 3°^- to the Eaftward of the meridian of Greenwich ; and coufequently that this land may exift, notwithftanding all that has yet been done to find it. M. Le Monier has alfo two additional Memoirs on the fame fubject, in the volume for 1779, occafioned, as it appears, by fome objections which have been made to his former Memoir before the Academy. For fome reafon or other, the Academy has not thought proper to print the objections which have been made to M. Le Monier's hypothefis ; nor has he been particular enough in his two Memoirs, which reply to them, to enable me to fay of what importance the objections are. I can only gather, that they contain fome exceptions to the quantity by which M. Le Monier afferts the v in io' of longitude, under the parallel of 54° South; I conceive, has little to do in the difpife.vv^ Whether the land, ufually called Cape Circumcifion, exifts or not, is a point of fmall importance to geography ; as the moft ftrenuous afferters of its exiftence muft allow it to be a very in- confiderable ifland, and of no ufe. This, therefore, is not, in itfelf, a matter worthy of difpute: but in afferting this, M. Le Monier has, and I am forry to obferve it, with fome afperity too, particularly in his fecond Memoir, endeavoured to cenfure the judgment and conduct of Captain Cook, whofe memory I have every reafon to revere, as well as the judgment of thofe who d, on this account, I cannot help feeling explain the motives which induced Captain o dependance on the arguments, now adduced by n fupport of his fuppofition ; and which, M. Le ' it unattended to, at that time, from with him myfelf called o Cook to place M. Le Monte; Monier fi what the Captain has faid, p. 236. Vol. II. of his A< the Voyage. And it maybe proper to obferve here, that what fell from Captain Cook, on this fubject, was to fhew that this cir- cumftance was then attended to, and not to throw blame on M. JBowvet, for whofe memory and abilities Captain Cook entertained great refpect: nor is it incompatible with the utmoft refpect, for a man to have a favourable opinion of his own labours ; or to endeavour to fhew why he thinks the difagreement between them and thofe of another perfon, when there is one, does not arife from an error committed by himfelf.'- There could, therefore, be no occafion for M. Le Monier to exprefs himfelf as he has done in feveral parts of his fecond Memoir. The fubftance of M. Le Monier's argument is this. In 1739, when M. JBowvet's difcovery is fuppofed to have been made, the methods for determining the longitude of a fhip at fea were very, defective; and, of eourfe, the longitude of any land which hap- .pened accidentally to "be feen by one, was equally uncertain. On a prefumption that this was the cafe with refpect to Cape Circumcifion, M, Le Monier enquires into the quantity of the of r INTRODUCTION. however plaufible this theory may feem, at firft fight, experience has abundantly detected its fallacy. of the magnetic needle, obferved by M- Bouvet at that place, and alfo into obfervations of the fame kind, made at other places in the neighbourhood of it, about the fame time, as well as both before and fince. And by comparing thefe obfervations together, he concludes, that at the time ' when Captain Cook was in thefe feas, the variation of the needle at Cape Circumcifion mult have been io° Wefterly: whereas, in the moft Wefterly point of Captain Cook's tract, where he was fufficiently near the parallel of 540 South, to have feen land fituated in it, the variation, was 13°i Wefterly, This difference of gg in the variation, an- fwers to about 7 ° of longitude, in this part of the parallel of 54° South : and by fo much did Captain Cook fall in with this parallel to the Eaftward of what he ought to have done to fee the land in queftion. " Hence (M. Le Monier infers), that it is not " furprizing the Britifh navigator fhould not find Cape Circum- " cifion under a meridian which is 28°". to the Eaftward of Fer- " ro, when it is really fituated under a meridian which is but " 2 i°i to the Eaftward of it." In replying to thefe allegations, I fhall,' firft, fhew, that, granting the dependence which M. Le Monier fuppofes may be placed on obfervations of the variation made at fea, he has ftat- ed the quantity of the variation, obferved on board the Refolution, very erroneoufly. Secondly, I fhall prove, beyond contradiction, that obfervations of the variation, made at fea, cannot be depended on, for the purpofes to which M. Le Monier has applied them. And, laftly, that no material error had crept into M. Bowvefs reckoning; but that if any error did exift, it muft have been of a contrary nature to that which M. Le Monier fuppofes. That M. Le Monier has not given altogether a true reprefen- tation of the matter, will appear from hence. On the i6th of February, at noon *, the Refolution was in latitude 540 31-I' South, which is fufficiently near the parallel of 540 South, to fee high land, the Northern extremity of which lies to the Southward of that parallel -, and at that time we were in 6° Eaft of Greenwich, or 23°^ Eaft of the ifland of Ferro: that is, 4°|. lefs than is affigned for our fituation by M. Le Monier. On the evening of the fame day, the fhip being in latitude 54' 24', and longitude 6D 30', or 240-! Eaft of Ferro, the variation was no(j^^ than 12° 7' Weft, which alfo is near a degree and a half lefs than M. Le Monier fays it was, when we firft arrived in a proper pa- * 1 here go by the dates in " The Original Agronomical Obferva- " tions," printed by order of the Board of Longitude; which, after the 14th of February 1775, differ one day from Captain Cook's date. INTRODUCTION. lacy. In confequence of Captain Cook's voyage, now under confideration, we have a thorough knowledge rallel for feeing Cape Circumcifion. It is true, the next morning, in latitude 540 2ii' South, longitude 8° & Eaft, we had 130 42' Weft variation j but this was after we had run more than 3 degrees within fight of the parallel of 54° South. It is highly probable, that both thefe great; for, on the 17th, in the evening, latitude 54° 25'South, and longitude 9= 20' Eaft ; that is, i°i more to the Eaftward, and after we had run 3° | on the parallel we were then on, the variation was no more than 130 16' Weft. It is alfo worthy of remark, that on the 14th, in the evening, latitude 56° 14!.' South, and longitude 40 50' Eaft, which is but i° 1.0' to the Weftward of the point, where the Refolution came firft into a proper fituation to fee land, fituated in the parallel of 540 South, the variation obferved was no more than 6° 50' Weft. And we may further add, that on the ift of March, 1774, the Adventure had no more than i2°|. Weft variation, though fhe was then confidera- bly both to the Northward and Eaftward of our fituation on the 17th of February in the morning, on both which accounts the yariation ought to have been greater, inftead ©f a whole degree lefs. From all thefe circumftances, there can be little doubt but that the two variations, obferved by us on the 16th and 17th of February, were too great; or that the variation, at the point where the Refolution firft came fufficiently near the parallel of 540 South, to fee land, the Northern extremity of which is fituated in that parallel, could not be more than 11°|. Weft, inftead of i3°i, as M. Le Monier has reprefented it. Under this head of enquiry I may alfo obferye, that although the Refolution was too much to the Southward of the parallel of 54° South, when fhe crofted the meridian which is 21 °^. to the Eaftward of Ferro; that is, 3°| Eaft of Greenwich, the longitude which M. Le Monier affigns for Cape Circumcifion, to fee if it had been in that fituation ; yet her confort, the Adventure, was for federal degrees on each fide of that meridian ; and efpe- cially when fhe had 10?\ of Weft variation, full as near to the parallel of 540 South as M. Bouyet was to the land when he faw it*: and on the day that lhe actually paffed that meridian, had fine clear weather+. Hence, therefore, granting M. Le Monier his own arguments, which, however, I haye proved to be erroneous; and that obfervations made at fea, for the variation of the compafs, may be depended on for the purpofe of finding the longitude, it is utterly impoffible that both the Refolution and :e The Original Aftronomical Obfervation , published by Mr. Dalrymple, p. 4, and j :e the Obfervations, p. »t8. INTRODUCTION. knowledge of the ftate of the Southern hernifphcB^ and can pronounce with certainty, that the equilibrium Adventure could have paffed Cape Circsfiaeifion without fee&ig it. But I fhall now fhew, th&t tfifcfe obfervations are liable to a much greater error than the whole quantity, fo vigoroufty infifted on by this gentleman. I will not here run the rifk of incurring M. Le Monier's dif- pleafure, by calling the accuracy of M. Bowvet's obfervatians-i*| queftion ; but will admit every thing that he himfelf can think due to the inftruments and obfervations of that deferving navigator. It is enough for my argument, and it is but too evident, from the obfervations themfelves, that ours were by no means capable of determining the variation to fo fmall a quantity as that which M. Le Monier refts his whole caufe upon ; and if fo, his arguments, which depend wholly on a fuppofition, that not only they, but M. Bowvet's alfo, were capable of determining it with the utmoft exactnefs, muft fall to the ground. ift, It appears, from various inftances, that the variations obferved by the fame compafs would differ 30 to 50, 6°, and fometimes even io°, from no other caufe whatever, but putting the fhip's head a contrary way*. 2d, That the fame compafs, in the fame fituation in every refpect, within a few miles, but at two different times of the fame day, would give variations differing from one another, 30, 40, 5°, 6°, and even 70 -j-. 3d, That the fame compafs, on the fame day, and in the hands of the fame obferver, will give variations differing from one another by 50, on board the fame fhip, when voider fail, and •when at anchor in a road-ftead J. 4th, Compaffes, made by the fame Srtift, at the fame time and place, but on board different fhips, differed 3°, 4°, and even 5° in the Voyage, March 11, 1773, p. 371. January 14, 1774, P- 375- and July 28, P- 378. ■f- Obfervations in the fecond Voyage, February 4, 1773, p. 371. and January 19, 1775, p. 382. Alfo Obfervations in laft Voyage, July 17, 1776, p. 179. Auguft 30, p. 181. January 24, 1777, P- 191. and September 15, 1778, p. 205. % Aftronomical obfervations of fecond Voyage, July 14, 1775, p. 3S5. ' § Compare the Aftronomical Obfervations, made in the fecond Voyage, Auguft 3, and 9, and September 4, 1772, p. 1B1. with thofe of the fame dates', p. 369. Thofe of January 11, and 14, and February 7, 1773, p. 182, with thofe of the fame dates, p. 371. Alfo Aftronomical Obfervations, made in the laft Voyage, of December 17, 1776, p. 191. February ii, 1778, p. 201. May 5, and 8, p. 102. July 9, and 24, 1779, p. 209. and January 16, 1780, p, 212. with thofe of the fsuae dates^ p., ■ *9'> *93> *54> *97> »nd *S8. INTRODUCTION. librium of the globe is effectually preferved, though 5th, The fame Compafles, on board the fame fliip, and within a few miles of the fame fituation, but at different times of our being there, gave variations differing by 40 and 5°, or upwards*. 6th, Different compafles, at the fame time, on board the fame fliip, and in every refpect under the fame circumftances, will give variations differing from one another, 30, 40, 50, and 6° +. Thefe differences, feveral of which happened very near the place in queftion, are all of them at leaft «j«al to, moft of them much greater, and fome of them double that which M. Le Monier founds his argument on, even according to his own account of it, which I have already fhewn is by no means ad- mifiible, and, therefore, totally invalidate it. To allege that the inftruments made ufe of in Captain Cook's two voyages were bad, or that the obfervers were not expert in the ufe of them, will anfwer no purpofe: they are the inftruments and obfervers which M. Le Monier's argument muft reft on; and, therefore, let thofe of the French, or any other navigator, have Been ever fo much better than they were (which few will be hardy enough to affert, and fewer ftill found weak enough to believe), it will avail nothing to the point in difpute, which muft evidently fall to the ground, if the obfervations made for finding the variation in Captain Cook's voyage are not fufficient to fupport it. What then muft become of it, if M. Bouvet's obfervations, of this kind, were liable to an equal, or a greater error ? which, without any reafonable caufe for offence, we might fuppofe they were. It is not neceflary to account for thefe differences in the obferved variations in this place, nor yet to point out the reafons why fuch anomalies have not been noticed in obfervations of this kind before. I fhall, however, remark, that I have hinted at feme of jthe caufes in my introduction to the obfervations which were made in Captain Cook's fecond voyage; and many others will readily offer themfelves to perfons whe have had much practice in making thefe obfervations, and who have attentively * Compare Aftronomical Obfervations, made in the fecond Voyage February 10, p. 375. with Obfervations of December 11, 1774, p, 3|,' Alfo Obfervations, made in the laft Voyage, May 3, and June 18, 1779J p. 208. t Obfervations made in the fecond Voyage, February 2, 1 773, p. 371 March 18, p. 372. and January 24, ,774, p. 375. See alfo Obfervations made laft Voyage, Auguft 18, 1776, p. 180. October 7, and 14, p. 189, and 190. December 12, p. ibid. January 24, ,777, p. Ioa. March 10, P-. 193- J"ly 9> and.!7, 1770, p. 209. January 16, 178©, p. 412. March 24, p. 213. aad May 19, p. 214. INTRODUCTION. though the proportion of fea actually failed through, leaves no fufficient fpace for the correfponding mafs. of Jentively confidered the principles on which the inftruments are conftructed, and the manner in which they are fabricated. Nor is it at all furprifing, that the errors to which the inftruments and obfervations of this kind are liable, fhould not have been, difcovered before, fince no navigators before us ever gave the fame opportunity, by multiplying their obfervations, and making them under fuch a variety of circumftances as we did. Having now fully fhewn, that the circumftances, brought forward by M. Le Monier, in fupport of his argument, are neither fuch as can be depended on, npr yet fairly reprefented, I fhall next attempt to dempnftrate, that it is utterly improbable M. Bouvet could beaut, in his account of longitude, fo much as is here fuppofed, in the fhort run which had been made from the ifland of St. Catherine, the place they took their departure from : on the contrary, that there is fufficient reafon to believe the error, of whatever magnitude it might be, was of a different nature from that contended for, and that the two, fhips, inftead of being to the Weftward of their account of longitude, were actually to the Eaftward of it. For, according to their Journals, extracted from the archives of the French Eaft-India Company, by M. D'Apres, printed under his infpection, and publifh- ed by Mr. Dalrymple, F. R. S. amongft other voyages made for the purpofe of examining the Southern parts of the Atlantic Ocean, the longitude, according to the Eagle's run from St, Catherine's, was 260 27', and according to the Mary's, 36° 20' Eaft of Teneriff; that is, 9° 57', and 9° go' Eaft of Greenwich, or 270 43', and 270 36' Eaft of Ferro. But the Mary, which went to the Cape of Good Hope, made 70 13' Eaft longitude from the land in queftion, to that place. Confequently the Cape of Good Hope being in longitude 180 23' Eaft of Greenwich, Cape Circumcifion will be in n° 10' Eaft of Greenwich, pr 10 20'more to the Eaftward than the run by the fame fhip from the ifland of St. Catheripe's makes it. Again, the Eagle made the difference of longitude between Cape Circumcifion, and the ifland of Rodrigues, 490 44'; and by the obfervations - of M. Pingre, this ifland is in '620 56' of Eaft longitude from Greenwich: Cape Circumcifion is therefore in 130 6' Eaft of Greenwich, pr 1° 9' more to the Eaftward than by the Eagle's run from St. Catherine's. Hence, therefore, as the longitude of this land refulting from a comparifon of that fhewn by each of fche fhips, on their making land at places where the longitude is exceedingly well determined, is greater than that which refults from their run from St. Catherine's, the longitude of which is not known with certainty within feveral degrees, we may infer, with great fafety, that whatever the quantity of M. Bouvet's error might be, when he is fuppofed to have feen Cape CirT INTRODUCTION. of land, which, on fpeculative arguments had been maintained to be neceffary *. If former navigators have added more land to the known globe than Captain Cook, to him, at leaft,- was refcrved the honour of being foremoft in difclofing to us the extent of fea that covers its furface. His own fummary view of the tranf- icYions of this voyage, will be a proper conclufion to thefe remarfcsjp'jfl had now made the circuit of ** the Southern Ocean in a high latitude, and tragi verfed it in fuch a manner as to leave not the j leaft room for there being a continent, unlefs § near the pole, and out of the reach of naviga- 1 tion. By twice vifiting the Tropical Sea, I had " not only fettled the fituation of fome old difcove- " ties, but made there many new ones, and left, " I conceive, very little to be done, even in that 'IjNjprt, Thus I flatter myfelf, that the intention ** of the voyage has, in every refpect, been fully cumcifion, it muft have been in defect, and not in excels, as M. Le Monier fuppofes it. Christ's Hospital, ? W.WALES. April 20, 1784. S * The judgment of the ingenious Author of Recherches fur les Amiricains, on this queftion, feems to be very deferving of a ;place here: " Qu'on calcule, comme on voudra, on fera tou- " jours contraint d'avouer, qu'il y a une plus grande portion de " continent fituee dans la latitude feptentrionale, cme dans la " latitude auftrale. " Ceft fort mal a-propos, qu'on a foutenu que cette repartition " inegale ne fauroit exifter, feus pretexte que le globe perdroit " fon equilibre, faute d'un contrepoids fuffifant au pole meri- " dionale. II eft 4fff-qju.'-im pied cube d'eau falee ne pefe pas " autant qurun pied cube de terre ; mais on auroit du reflechir, " qu'il peut y avoir feus l'ocean des lits & des couches de ma- " tieres, dont la pefanteur fpecifique varie a l'infini, & que le " peu de profondeur d'une mer, verfee fur une grande furface, ^gffiMltrebalknce les endroits ou il y a moins de mer, mais " ou elle eft plus profonde." Recherches Philofophiques, Torn. ii.p.37*- " anfwered; INTRODUCTION. " anfwered; the Southern hemifphere fufficiently " explored ; and a final end put to the fearching " after a Southern continent, which has, at times, *c engroffed the attention of fome of the Man's -time Powers for near two centuries paft, and " been a favourite theory amongft the geographers " of all ages *." Thus far, therefore, the voyages to difclofe new tracks of navigation, and to reform old defects in geography, appear to have been profecut- ed with a fatisfactory fhare of fuccefs. A peru- fal of the foregoing fummary of what had been done, will enable every one to judge what was ftill wanting to complete the great plan of difcovery. The Southern hemifp&ere had, indeed, been repeatedly vifited, and its utmoft acceffible extremities been furveyed. But much uncertainty, and of eourfe, great variety ©f opinion, fub- fifted, as to the navigable extremities of our own hemifphere ; particularly, as to the exiftence, or, at leaft, as to the practicability of a Northern paffage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, either by failing Eaftward, round Afia, or Weft- ward, round North America. It was obvious, that if fuch a paffage could be effected, voyages to Japan and China, and, indeed, to the Eaft Indies in general, would be much fhortened ; and confequently become more profitable, than by making the tedious circuit of the Cape of Good Hope. Accordingly, it became a favourite object of the Englifh to effectuate this, above two centuries ago; and (to fay nothing of Cabot's original attempt, in 1497, which ended in the difcovery of Newfoundland, and the Labra- dore coaft) from Frobifher's firft voyage to find # Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 239. a Weftem INTRODUCTION. a Weftern paflage, in 1576, to thofe of James and of Fox, in 1631, repeated trials had been made by our enterprifing adventurers. But though farther knowledge of the Northern extent of America was obtained in the eourfe of thefe voyages, by the difcovery of Hudfon's and Baffin's Bays, the wifhed-for paffage, on that fide, into the Pacific Ocean, was ftill unattained. Our countrymen, and the Dutch, were equally unfuccefsful, in various attempts, to find this paffage in an Eaftern direction. Wood's failure, in 1676,'US®! to have clofed the long lift of unfortunate Northern expeditions in that century; and the difcovery, if not abfolutely defpaired of, by having been fo often miffed, ceafed, for many years, to be fought for. Mr. Dobbs, a warm advocate for the probability of a»North Weft paffage through Hudfon's Bay,'in our own time, once tt0$k< recalled the'tt?- tention of this Gentry to that undertaking ; and, by his active zfenl,- and perfevering folicitation, renewed the fpirit of difcovery. But it was renewed in wArn For Captain Middleton, fent Out bySwefiimertt in 1741, and Captains Smith and Moore, by a private fociety, in 1746, though effiCoutfaged by an act of Parliament palled in the preceding year, that annexed a reward of twenty thoufand pounds to the difcovery of a paffage, returned from Hudfon's Bay with reports of their proceedings, that left the accomplifh- ment of this favourite object at as great a dif- tancfc as ever. When refearches of this kind, no longer left to the folicitations of an -individual, or to the fub- fcriptions of private adventurers, became cherifh- ed by the Royal attention, in^Jleprefent reign, and warmly promoted by the Minifter at the head of INTRODUCTION. of the naval department, it was impoffible, while fo much was done toward exploring the remoteft corners of the Southern hemifphere, that the Northern paffage fhould not be attempted. Accordingly, while Captain Cook was profecuting his voyage toward the South Pole, in 1773, Lord Mulgrave failed with two fhips, to determine bow far navigation was pratlicable toward the North Pole. And though his Lordfhip met with the fame infuperable bar to his progrefs, which former navigators had experienced *, the hopes of opening a communication between the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, by a Northerly eourfe, were not abandoned ; and a voyage for that purpofe, was ordered to be undertaken. The operations propofed to be purfued, were fo new, fo extenfive, and fo various, that the fkill and experience of Captain Cook, it was thought, would be requifite to conduelShem. Without being liable to any cha^pjof want of zeal for the public fervice, he might have paffed the reft of his days in the command to which he had been appointed in Greenwich Hofpi^ there to enjoy the fame he had dearly earned|%jtwo circumnavigations of the world. But he cheerfully ^^iSsg quifhed this honourable ftation at home ; and, happy that the Earl of Saistftich had nqt,4filhis eye upon any other Commander, engaged in the conduct of the expedition, the hiftory of which is prefented to the Public in thefe Volumes ; an expedition that would expofe him to the toils and perils of a third circumnavigation, bj^track hitherto unattempted. Every former navigator round * See the hiftory of former attempts to fail toward the North Pole, in the Introduction to Lord Mulgrave's Journal', "fflr.* Barrington has collected feveral inftances of fhips advancing to very high latitudes. See his Mifcellanies, p. 1—124. the INTRODUCTION. the globe had made his paffage home to Europe by the Cape of Good Hope ; the arduous tafk was now affigned to Captain Cook, of atf^ipting it, by reaching the high Northern latitudes between Afia and America. So that the ufual plan of difcovery was reverfed; and, inftead of a paffage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, one from the latter into the former was to be tried. For it was wifely forefeen, that whatever openings or inlets there might be on the Eaft fide of America, which lie in a direction which could give any hopes of a paffage, the ultimate fuccefs of it would ftill depend upon there being an open fea between the Weft fide of that continent, and the extremities of Afia. Captain Cook, therefore, was ordered to proceed into the Pacific Ocean, through the chain of his new iflands in the Southern tropic, and having croffed the equator into its Northern Parts, then to hold fuch a eourfe as rnjgfit probably fix many interefting points in geography, and produce intermediate difcoveries, in fii§ progrefs Northward to the principal fcene of his operations. But the plan of the voyage, and the various objects it embraced, will beft appear from the In- ftructions under which Captain Cook failed ; and the infertion of them here, will convey fuch authentic information, as may enable the Reader to judge with precifion how far they have been carried into execution. By INTRODUCTION. By the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord High Admiral of Great Britain and Ireland, &c. SECRET INSTRUCTIONS for Captain James Cook, Commander of hisMa- jefty's Sloop the Resolution. Jj/'HEREAS the Earl of Sandwich has Jignified. to us his Maiefly's pleafure, that an attempt fhouldbe made to find out a Northern paffage by fea from the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean ; and whereas we have, in purfutanee thereof, caufed Ms Majifly's- /loops Refolution and Difcovery to be fitted, in all re- fpeels, proper to proceedtiptik a voyage for the purpqfe above-mentioned, and, from the experience-we have had of your abilities and good aondutl in your late voyages, have thottght fit to intruft you with the con- duel of the prefent intemkd voyage, and with that view appointed you to command sthe firft' mentioned floop, and diretled Captain Gierke, who commands the other, to follow your orders for his fm^ber-proceedings ; You are hereby required and diretled to proceed with the faid two floops diretlly to the Cape of Good Mipejunlefs you fball judge it neceffary to flop at Madeira, the Cape de Verd, or Canary'IfiflffiftOs, to take in--wine for the ufe of their companies; in which cafe you are at liberty to do fo, taking care to remain there no longer than may be neceffary for that purpofe. On your arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, you are to refrefh thefloops companies, and to caufe the /loops to befupplied with asm%$b-provifions~ and water as they can conveniently flow. You are, if pofftble, to leave the Cape of Good Hope by the end of Otloher, or the beginning of November next. INTRODUCTION. next, and proceed to the Southward in fearch 0/ fome iflands faid to have been lately feen by the French, in the latitude of 480 o' South, and about the meridian of Mauritius. In cafe you find thofe iflands, you are to examine them thoroughly for a good harbour ; and upon difcovering one, make the neceffary obfervations to facilitate the finding it again ; as a good port, in t^ek- fituation, may hereafter prove very ufeful} although it Jhould afford little or nothing more than/belter, wood, and water. You are not, however, to fpend too much time in looking out for thofe iflands, er in the examination of them, if found, but proceed to Otaheite, or the Society Ifles (touching at New Zealand in your way thither, if you /hould judge it neceffary and convenient), and taking care to arrive there time enough to admit of your giving the /loops companies the refrefhment they may /land in need of, before you profecute the farther objetl of thefe in- firutlions. Upon your arrival at Otaheite, or the Society Ifles, you are to land Omiah at fuch of them as be may choqfe, and to leave him there. You are to diftribute among the Chiefs of thofe iflands fuch part of theprefents with which you have been fupplied, as you fhall judge proper, referving the remainder to diftribute among the natives of the countries you may dijcover in the Northern Hemifphere : And having refre/hed the people belonging to the /loops under your command, and taken on board fuch wood and water as they may refpetlively /land in need 0/, you are to leave thofe iflands in the beginning of February, or fooner if you /hall judge it neceffary, and then proceed in as diretl a eourfe as you can to the coaft of New Albion, endeavouring to fall in with it in the latitude 0/45° o" North; and taking care, in your way thither, not to lofe any t'ime in fearch of new lands, or Vol, I. c to I NT RODUCTlON. to flop at any you may fall in with, unlefs you find it neceffary to recruit your wood and water. You .are alfo, in your way thither, ftricily enjoined not'to touch upon any part of the Spanifh dominions on the FVeftern continent of America, unlefs driven thither by fome unavoidable accident; in which cafe you are to/lay no longer there than/hall be abfolutely neceffary, and to be very careful no} to give any umbrage or offence to any of the inhabitants or fubjetls , of his Catholic Majefty. And if, in your farther progrefs to the Northward, as hereafter diretled, you find any fubjetls of any European Prince or State upon any part of the coaft you may think proper to vi- fit, you are not to difturb them, or give them any juft caufe of offence, but, on the contrary, to treat them with civility and friend/hip. Upon your arrival on the coaft of New Albion, you are to put into the firft convenient port to recruit your wood and water, and procure refrejhments, and then to proceed Northward along the coaft, as far as the latitude of 6$°, or farther, if you are not obflrutled by lands or ice ; taking care not to lofe any time in exploring rivers or inlets, or upon any other account, until you get in&*fbe before-mentioned latitude of 6$", where we could wifh you to arrive in the month of June next. When you get that length, you are very carefully to fearch for, and to explore, fuch rivers or inlets as may appear to be of a confiderable extent, and pointing towards Hudfon's or Baffin's Bays; and if, from your own obfervations, or from any information you may receive from the natives (who, there j is reafon to believe, are the fame race of people, and fpeak the fame language, of which you are furni/hed with a Vocabulary, as the Efquimaux), there /hall appear to be a certainty, or even a probability, of a water paffage into the afore-mentimed bays, or either of INTRODUCTION. *of them, you are, in fuch cafe, to ufe your utmoft endeav'oupf'to' pafs through with one or both of the /loops, unlefs you /hall be of opinion that the paffage may be effetled with more certainty, or with greater probability by fmafflekfjoeffels-, in which ■ cafe you are to fet uPf^eJfrmies^f one or both £fo_Jmall veffels'' w'tw" which^'you are provided, and, when they are put together, and are properly fitted, ftored, and vitlualled, you are to difpatch one or both of them, under the care of proper officers, with a fufficient number of petty officers, men, and boats, in order to attempt the fame paffage; with fuch inftrutlions for their rejoining you^Jf they Jhould fail, or for their farthsgproceedings, if they Jhould fucceed in the attempt, as you /ball judge moft proper. But, neverthelefs, if you fhallfind it more eligible to purfue any other meafures than thofe above pointed out, in order to make a difcovery of the before-mentioned paffage (if any fuch there be), you are at liberty, and we leave it to your difcretion, to purfue fuch meafures ^ecsrdingly. In cafe you/ball he fatisfied that there is no paffage through to the above-mentioned bays, fufficient for the purpofes of navigation, you are, at the proper feafon of the year, to repair to the port of St. Peter and St. Paul in Kamtfchatka, or wherever elfe you /halljudge more proper, in order to refre/b your people and pafs the Winter >, and, in the Spring of the enfuing year 1778, to proceed from thence to the Northward, as far as, in your prudence, you may think proper, in further fearch of a North Eaft, or North Weft paffage, from the Pacific Ocean into the Atlantic Ocean, or the North Sea : and if, from your own obfervation, or any information you may receive, there /hall appear to be a probability of fuch paffage, you are to proceed as above direcled; and, having difcovered c 2 fuch INTRODUCTION. fuch paffage, or failed in the attempt, make the heft of your way back to England, by fuch route as you may think be/l for the improvement of geography and navigation ; repairing to Spithead with both /loops, where they are to remain till further order. At whatever places you may touch in the eourfe of your voyage, where accurate obfervations of the nature hereafter mentioned have not already been made, yon are, as far as your time will allow, very carefully to obferve the true fituation of fuch places, both in latitude and longitude ■, the variation of the needle; bearings of bead-lands •, height, diretlion, and eourfe of the. tides and currents •, depths and foundings of the fea ; Jhoals, rocks, &c.; and alfo to furvey, make charts, and take views of fuch bays, harbours, and different parts of the coaft, and to make fuch notations thereon, as may be ufeful either to navigation or commerce. You are alfo carefully to obferve the nature of the foil, and the produce thereof'-, the animals and fowls that inhabit or frequent it; the fifhes that arc to be found in the rivers or upon the coaft, and in what plenty; and, in cafe there are any peculiar to fuch places, to defcribe them as minutely, and to 'make as accurate drawings of them, as you can: and, if you find any metals, minerals, or valuable ftones, or any extraneous foffils, you are to bring home fpecimens of each ; as alfo of the feeds of fuch trees, Jhrubs, plant s^ fruits, and grains, peculiar to thofe places, as you may be able to colletl, and to tranfmit them to our Secretary, that proper examination and experiments may be made of them. You are likewife to obferve the genius, temper, difpofition, and number of the natives and inhabitants, where you find any; and to endeavour, by all proper means, to cultivate a friend/hip with them ; making them prefents of fuch trinkets as you may have on board, and they may like heft; inviting them to traffic | INTRODUCTION. traffic ; and /hewing them every kind of civility and regard -, but taking care, neverthelefs, not to fuffer yourfelf to be furprifed by them, but to be always on your guard againft any accidents. You are afo, with the confent of the natives, to take poffeffion, in the name of the King of Great Britain, of convenient Jituations in fuch countries' as you may difcover, that have not already been difcovered or vifited by any other European power ; and to diftribute among the inhabitants fuch things as will remain as traces and teftimonies of your having been there •, but if you find the countries fo difcovered are uninhabited, you are to take poffeffion of them for his Majefty, by fet ting up proper marks and infcriptions, as firft difcover ers and poffeffors. But forafmucb as, in undertakings of this nature, feveral emergencies may arife not to be fore feen, and therefore not particularly to be provided for by inftruc- tions before-hand; you are, in all fuch cafes, to proceed as you/hall judge moft advantageous to the fer- vice on which you are employed. You are, by all opportunities, to fend to our Secretary, for our information, accounts of your proceedings, and copies of the furveys and drawings you fhall have made; and upon your arrival in England, you are immediately to repair to this office^ in order to lay before us a full account of your proceedings in the whole eourfe of your voyage ; taking care, before you leave the floop, to demand from the officers and petty officers, the logbooks and journals they may have kept, and to feal them up for our infpetlion -, and en- ioining them, and the whole crew, not to divulge where they have been, until they Jhall have permt/fion fo to do: and you are to diretl Captain Clerke to do the fame, with refpetl to the officers, petty officers, and crew of the Difcovery. If INTRODUCTION. If any accident fhould happen to the Refolution in the eourfe of the voyage, fo asffbfdifable her from proceeding any farther, you are, in fuch cafe, to. remove yourfelf and her crew into the Difcovery, and to profecute your voyage in her -, her Commander being hereby ftritlly required to receive you on board, and to obey your orders, the fame, in every refpetl, as when you were atlually on board the Refolution: And, in cafe of your inability, by ficknefs or otherwife, to carry thefe Inftrutlions into execution, you are to be careful to leave them with the next officer in command, who is hereby required to execute them in the heft manner he can. Given under our hands the 6th day of July, 1776, SANDWICH. C. SPENCER. H.PALLISER. By command of their Lord/hips, PH. STEPHENS. Befides ordering Captain Cook to fail on this important voyage, Government, in earneft about the object of it, adopted a meafure, which, while it could not but have a powerful operation on the crews of the Refolution and Difcovery, by adding the motives of intereft, to the obligations of duty • at the fame time encouraged all his Majefty's fub- jects to engage in attempts toward the propofed difcovery. By the act of parliament, paffed in 1745*, a reward of twenty thoufand pounds had. * See the Statutes at Large, 18 George II. chap. 17. been INTRODUCTION. been held out. But it had been held out only to the fhips belonging to any of his Majefty's fubjetls, exclufive of his Majefty's own fhips. The act had a ftill more capital defect. It held out this reward only to fuch fhips as fhould difcover a paffage through Hudfon's Bay -, and, as we fhall foon take occafion to explain, it was by this time, pretty cer-t tain, that no fuch paffage exifted within thofe limits. Effectual care was taken to remedy both thefe defects, by paffing a new law ; which, after reciting the provifions of the former, proceeds as follows : " And whereas many advantages, both to '* commerce and fcience, may be alfo expected " from the difcovery of any Northern paffage for " veffels by fea, between the Atlantic and Pacific *' Oceans—be it enacted, That if any (hip be- " longing to any of his Majefty's fubjects, or to " his Majefty, fhall find out, and fail through, *' any paffage by fea, between the Atlantic and " Pacific Oceans, in any diretlion, or parallel of *' the Northern hemifphere, to the Northward of " the 52° of Northern latitude, the owners of fuch " fhips, if belonging to any of his Majefty's fub- " jects, or the commander, officers, and feamen, of " fuch /hip belonging to bis Majefty, fhall receive, " as a reward for fuch difcovery, the fum of twen- " ty thoufand pounds. " And whereas fhips employed, both in the " Spitzbergen Seas, and in Dayis's Straits, have (f frequent opportunities of approaching the North ** Pole, though they have not ime, during the " eourfe of one fummer, to pWretrate into the " Pacific Ocean \ and whereas fuch approaches u may greatly tend to the difcovery of a cornmut " nication between the Atlantic and Pacific O- *' ceans, as well as be attended with many advan- *' tages to commerce and fcience, &c. be it enact- ** cd, KB) troduction. " ed, That if any fhip fhall approach to within V i° of the North Pole, the owner, &c. or com- '* mander, &c. fo approaching, fhall receive, as a " reward for fuch firft approach, the fum of five " thouiand pounds*." That nothing might be omitted that could facilitate the fuccefs of Captain Cook's expedition, fome time before he failed, in the beginning of the fummer of 1776, Lieutenant Picker/gill, appointed Commander of his Majefty's armed brig the Lion, was ordered " to proceed to Davis's " Straits, for the protection of the Britifh whale *' fifhers ;" and that firft object being fecured, " he was then required and directed to proceed " up Baffin's Bay, and explore the coafts there- <e of, as far as in his judgment the fame could <* be done without apparent rifk, taking care to " leave the above mentioned Bay fo timely, as " to fecure his return to England in the fall of the " yearj" and it was farther enjoined to him, m to make nautical remarks of every kind, and " to employ Mr. Lane (Mafter of the veiTd un- " der his command) in furveying, making ^charts, *' and taking views of the feveral bays, harbours, g| and different parts of the coafts which he might " vifit, and in making fuch notations thereon as " might be ufeful to geography and naviga- " tion f." Pickerfgill, we fee, was not to attempt the difcovery of the paffage. He was directed to explore the coafts^f Baffin's Bay, with a view only to bring back^ne fame year, fome information, which might be an ufeful direction toward planning an intended voyage into that bay the en- fuing fummer, to try for the difcovery of a paffage * See the Statutes at Large, 1776, 16 George III. chap. 6. + From his MS. InfttS«Hons, dated May 14, iT/6. INTRODUCTION. on that fide, with a view to co-operate with Captain Cook, who, it was fuppofed (from the tenor of his inftructions) would be trying for this paffage, about the fame time, from the oppofite fide of America. Pickerfgill, obeying his inftructions, at leaft in this inftance, did return that year ; but there were fufficient reafons for not fending him out again; and the command of the next expedition into Baffin's Bay was conferred on Lieutenant Young ; whofe Inftructions, having an immediate connection with our voyage, are here inferted. EXTRACT of INSTRUCTIONS to Lieutenant Young, commanding the Lion armed Veffel, dated 13th March 1777. JJ/"H EREAS, in purfuance of the King's plea-^ fure, fignified to us by the Earl of Sandwich, D'f' bis Majefty's /loops named in the margin have been Jent out under the command of Captain Cook, in order, during this and the enfuing year, to attempt a difcovery of a Northern paffage, by fea, from the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean; and, for that purpofe, to run up as high as the latitude of 650 North, where it is hoped he will be able to arrive in the month of June next -, and there, and as much further to the Northward as in hisprudence he /ball think proper, very carefully to fearch for and explore fuch rivsrs or inlets as may appear to be of a confiderable extent, and pointing to Hudfon's or Baffin's Bays, or the North Sea ; and, upon finding any paffage through, fufficient for the purpofes of navigation, to attempt fuch paffage with one or both INTRODUCTION. both of the /loops; or, if they are judged to be too large, with /mailer veffels, the frames of which have been fent out with him for that purpofe : And whereas, inpurfuance ofhis Majefty's further pleafure, Jignified as aforefaid, the armed veffel under your command hath been fitted in order to proceed to Baffin's Bay, with a view to explore the Weftern parts thereof, and to endeavour to find a paffage, on that fide, from the Atlantic to the Pacfic O- cean, and we have thought fit to intruft you with the condutl of that voyage -, You are therefore hereby required and diretled to put to fea in the faid armed veffel, without a moment's lofs of time, and make the Left of your way into Baffin's Bay, and fo ufe your befi endeavours to explore the Weftern /bores thereof, as far as in your judgment the fame can be done, without apparent rifque, and to examine fuch confiderable rivers or inlets as you may dffcover; and, in cafe you find any, through which there may be a probability of pqfflng into the Pacific Ocean, you are to attempt fuch paffage -, and if you fucceed in the attempt, and /hall be able to repafs it again, fo as to return to England this year, you are to make the heft of your way to Spit- head, or the Nore, and remain there until you receive further order ; fending us an account of your arrival and proceedings. But if you /hall fucceed in the attempt, and /hall find the feafon too far advanced for you to return the fame way, you are then to look out for the moft convenient place to winter in, and to endeavour to return by the faid paffage as early in the next year as the feafon will admit, and then to make the heft of your way to England, as above diretled. In cafe, however, you /hould not find, or fhould he fatisfled there is not any probability of finding, INTRODUCTION. tiny fuch paffage, or, finding it, you Jhould not be able to get through in the veffel you command, you are then to return to England, as before mentioned, unlefs you /hall find any branch of the fea leading to the Weftward which you /hall judge likely to afford a communication between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and which you /hall mt be able to explore in the eourfe of this year, it being, in that cafe, left to your difcretion to ftay the Winter in the moft commodious fituation you can find, in order to purfue the difcovery next year, if you /hall find it advifeable fo to do -, and, having difcovered fuch paffage, or not fucCeeded in the attempt, you are to make the heft of your way to England, as above diretled. It was natural to hope, that fomething would have been done in one or other, or in both thefe voyages of the Lion, that might have opened our views with regard to the practicability of a paffage from this fide of x\merica. But, unfortunately, the execution did not anfwer the expectations conceived. Pickerfgill, who had acquired profeffionai experience when acting under Captain Cook, juftly merited the cenfure he received, fof^jjtjffifbper behaviour when intrufted with command in Davis's Straits; and the talents of Young, as it afterward appeared, were more adapted to contribute to the glory of a victory, as Commander of a line of battle fhip, than to add to geographical difcoveries, INTRODUCTION. veries, by encountering mountains of ice, and exploring unknown coafts *. Both Pickerfgill and Young having been ordered to proceed into Baffin's Bay; and Captain Cook being directed not to begin his fearch till he fhould arrive in the latitude of 6$°, it may not be improper to fay fomething here of the reafons which weighed with thofe who planned the voyages, and framed the inftructions, to carry their views fo far Northward, as the proper fituation, where the paffage, if it exifted at all, was likely to be attempted with fuccefs. It may be afked, Why was Hudfon's Bay neglected on our fide of America ; and why was not Captain Cook ordered to begin his fearch on its oppofite fide, in much lower latitudes? Particularly, why not explore the ftrait leading into the Weftern fea of John de Fuca, between the latitudes of 470 and 480; the Archipelago of St. Lazarus of Admiral de Fonte, between 500 and $5°; and the rivers and lakes through which he found a paffage North Eaftward, till he met with a fhip from Bofton ? As to the pretended difcoveries of de Fuca, the Greek Pilot, or of de Fonte, the Spanifh Admiral, though they have fometimes found their way into fictitious maps, or have been warmly contended for by the efpoufers of fanciful fyftems; to have directed Captain Cook to fpend any time * In the Philofophical Tranfactions, Vol. lxviii. p. 1057, we have the track of Pickerfgill's voyage, which, probably, may be of ufe to our Greenland fhips, as it contains many obfervations for fixing the longitude and latitude of the.coafts in Davis's Straits. But it appears that he never entered Baffin's Bay, the higheft Northern latitude to which he advanced being 68° 14'. As to Young's proceedings, having failed abfolutely in making any difcovery, it is of lefs •onfequence, that no communication of his journal could be procured. i in INTRODUCTION. in tracing tftferri, would have been as wife a mea- fure as if he had been directed to trace the fituation of Jllftiput or Brobdignac. The latter are, indeed, confeffedly, mere objects of imagination ; and the former, deftitute of any fufficient external evidence, bear 10 many (hiking marks of internal abfurdity, as warrant our pronouncing them to be the fabric of impofture. Captain Cook's inftructions were founded on an accurate knowledge of what had been already done, and of what ftill remained to do -, and this knowledge pointed out the inutility of beginning his fearch for a paffage till his arrival in the latitude of 6$°; of which every fair and capable inquirer will be abundantly convinced, by an attention to the following particulars. Middleton, who commanded the expedition in 1741 and 1742, into Hudfon's Bay, had proceeded farther North than any of his predecef- fors in that navigation. But though, from his former acquaintance with that Bay, to which he had frequently failed in the fervice of the company, he had entertained hopes of finding out a paffage through it into the Pacific Ocean, the obfervations which he was now enabled to make, induced him to change his opinion; and, on his return to England, he made an unfavourable report. Mr. Dobbs, the patron of the enterprize, did not acquiefce in this; and, fortified in his original idea of the practicability of the paffage, by the teftimony of fome of Middleton's officers, he appealed to the Public, accufing him of having mifreprefented facts, and of having, from inte- refted motives, in concert with the Hudfon's Bay Company, decided againft the practicability of the paffage, though the difcoveries of his own voyage had put it within his reach. Ik INTRODUCTION. He had, between the latitude of 650 and 66°, found a very confiderable inlet running Weftward, into which he entered with his fhips; and, " after *■'■ repeated trials of the tides, and endeavours to *' difcover the nature and eourfe of the opening, % for three weeks fucceflively, he found the flood " conftantly to come from the Eaftward, and that i it was a large river he had got into," to which he gave the name of Wager River *. The accuracy, or rather the fidelity of this report was denied by Mr. Dobbs, who contended that this opening is a Strait, and not a fre/b water river, and that Middleton, if he had examined it properly, would have found a paffage through it to the Weftern American Ocean. The failure of this voyage, therefore, only ferved to fur- nifh our zealous advocate for the difcovery, with new arguments for attempting it once more; and he had the good fortune, after getting the reward of twenty thoufand pounds eftablifhed by act of parliament, to prevail upon a fociety of gentlemen and merchants to fit out the Dobbs and California ; which fhips, it was hoped, would be able to find their way into the Pacific Ocean, by the very opening which Middleton's voyage had pointed out, and which he was believed to have mif- reprefented. This renovation of hope only produced frefh difappointment. For it is well known, that the voyage of the Dobbs and California, inftead of confuting, ftrongly confirmed all that Middleton had afferted. The fuppofed Strait was found to be nothing more than a frefh water river, and its iltmoft Weftern navigable boundaries were now # See the Abftract of his Journal, pjiblifhed by Mr- Dobbs. afcertained, INTRODUCTION. aftertained, by accurate examination. But though Wager's Strait had thus difappointed our hopes, as had alfo done Rankin's Inlet, which was now found to be a clofe Bay; and though other arguments, founded on the fuppofed eourfe of the tides in Hudfon's Bay, appeared to be groundlefs ; fuch is our attachment to an opinion once adopted, that, even after the unfuccefsful iffue of the voyage of the Dobbs and California, a paffage through fome other place in that Bay was, by many, confidered as attainable \ and, particularly, Chef- terfield's (formerly called Bowden's) Inlet, lying between latitude 6 3° and 640, fucceeded Wager's Strait, in the fanguine expectations of thofe who f^if&foed unconvinced by former difappointments. Mr. Ellis, who was on board the fhips, and who wrote the hiftory of the voyage, holds .up this as one of the places where the paffage may be fought for, upon very rational grounds, and with very good effetls *. He alfo mentions Repulfe Bay, nearly in latitude 670; but as to this he fpeaks lefs confidently ; only faying, that by an attempt there, we might probably approach nearer to the difcovery -f-. He had good rsafon for thus guarding his expreflion ; for the committee, who directed ihl^voyage, admitting the impracticability, of effecting a paffage at Repulfe Bay, had refufed allowing the fhips to go into it, being fatisfied as to that place X- Setting Repulfe Bay, therefore, afide, within which we have no reafon for believing that any * Ellis's Voyage, p. 328. + Ibid. p. 330. % Account of the- Voyage, by the Clerk of the California, Vol. ii. p. 273. Mr. Dobbs himfelf fays, That he thought the paffage ..would be impracticable, or, at leaft, very difficult, in cafe there was one fart her North than 6-j0. Account of Hudfon's Bay, p. 99. inlet INTRODUCTION. Inlet exifts, there remained no part of Hudfon's Bay to be fearched, but Chefterfield's Inlet, and a fmall track of coaft between the latitude 62a% and what is called the South Point of Main, which had been left unexplored by the Dobbs and California, But this laft gleam of hope has now difappear- ed. The averfion of the Hudfon's Bay Company,, to contribute any thing to the difcovery of a North Weft paffage, had been loudly reported by Mr. Dobbs; and the Public feemed to believe that the charge was well founded. But ftill, in juftice to them, it muft be allowed, that, in 1720, they had fent Meffrs. Knight and Barlow, in a floop • on this very difcovery; but thefe unfortunate people were never more heard of. Mr. Scroggs, who failed in fearch of them, in 1722, only brought back proofs of their fhipwreck, but no frefh intelligence about a paffage, which he was alfo to look for. They alfo fent a floop, and a fhallop, to try for this difcovery, in 1737; but to no purpofe. If obftructions were thrown ia the way of Captain Middleton, and of the Commanders of the Dobbs and California, the Governor and Committee of the Hudfon's Bay Company, fince that time, we muft acknowledge, have made amends for the narrow prejudices of their predeceffors j and we have it in our power to appeal to facts, which abundantly teftify, that every thing has been done by them, that could be required by the Public, toward perfecting the fearch for a North Weft paffage. In the year 1761, Captain Chriftopher failed from Fort Churchill, in the floop- Churchill; and his voyage was not quite fruitlefs; for he failed up Chefterfield's Inlet, through which a paffage had. INTRODUCTION. had, by Mr. Ellis's account of it, been fo generally -expected. But when the water turned brack- ifh, which marked that he was not in a ftrair, but in a river, be returned. To leave no room for a variety of opinion, however, he was ordered to repeat the voyage the enfuing fummer, in the fame floop, and Mr. Norton, in a cutter, was appointed to attend him. By the favour of the Governor and Committee of the Company, the Journals of Captain Chrif- topher, and of Mr. Norton, and Captain Chrifto- pher's chart of the Inlet, have been readily communicated. From thefe authentic documents, it appears that the fearch and examination of Chefterfield's Inlet was now completed. It was found to end in a frefh water lake, at the diftance of about one hundred and feventy miles from the fea. This lake was found alfo to be about twenty-one leagues long, and from five to ten broad, and to be completely clofed up on every fide, except to the Weft, where there was a little rivulet; to furvey the ftate of which, Mr. Norton and the crew of the cuttefr having landed, and marched up , the country, faw that it foon terminated in three falls^qne above another, and not water.for a fmall boat over them ; and ridges, moftly dry from fide to fide, for five or fix miles higher. Tims ends Chefterfield's Inlet, and all Mr. Ellis's expectations of a paffage through it to the Weftern Ocean. The other part of the coaft, from latitude 620, to the South Point of Main, within which limits hopes were alfo entertained of finding a paffage, have, of late years, been thoroughly explored. It is here that Piftol Bay is fituated; which the author who has writ laft in this country, Vol. I. d on f INTRODUCTION. on the probability of a North Weft paffage *, fpeaks of as the only remaining part of Hudfon's Bay where this Weftern communication may exift. But this has been alfo examined ; and, on the authority of Captain Chriftopher, we can a flu re the Reader, that there is no inlet of any confe- quence in all that part of the coaft. Nay, he has, in an open boat, failed round the bottom of v/hat is called Piftol Bay, and, inftead of a paffage to a Weftern Sea, found it does not run above three or four miles inland. Befides thefe voyages by fea, which fatisfy us that we muft not look for a paffage to the South of 670 of latitude ; we are indebted to the Hudfon's Bay Company, for a journey by land, which has thrown much additional light on this matter, by affording what may be called demonftration, how much farther North, at leaft in fome part of their voyage, fhips muft hold their eourfe, before they can pafs from one fide of America to the other. The Northern Indians, who come down to the Company's forts for trade, had brought to the knowledge of our people, the exiftence of a river; which, from copper abounding near it, had got the name of the Copper-mine River. We read much about this river in Mr. Dobbs's publications, and he confiders the Indian accounts of it as favourable to his fyftem. The Company being de- firous of examining the matter with precifion, ordered their Governor of Prince of Wales's Fort, to fend a proper perfon to travel by land, under the efcort of fome trufty Northern Indians, with orders to proceed to this famous river, to take * Printed for Jeffreys, in 1768. His words are, I There re- " mains then to be fearched for the difcovery of a paffage, the *• opening called Piftol Bay, in Hudfon's Bay," P. 132. INTRODUCTION. an accurate furvey of its eourfe, and to trace it to the fea, into which it empties itfelf. Mr. Hearne, a young gentleman in their fervice, who, having been an officer in the Navy, was well qualified to make obfervations for fixing the longitude and latitude, and make drawings of the country he fhall pafs through, and of the river which he was to examine, was appointed for this fervice. Accordingly, he fet out from Fort Prince of Wales, on Churchill River, in latitude 58° 50', on the 7th of December 1770; and the whole of his proceedings, from time to time, are faithfully preferved in his written Journal. The publication of this would not be an unacceptable pre- fent to the world, as it draws a plain artlefs picture of the favage modes of life, the fcanty means of fubfiftence, and indeed of the fingular wretched- nefs, in every refpect, of the various tribes, who, without fixed habitations, pafs their miferable lives, roving throughout the dreary deferts, and over the frozen lakes of the immenfe track of continent through which Mr. Hearne paffed, and which be may be faid to/lave added to the geography of the globe. His general eourfe was to the North Weft. In the month of June 177 r, being then at a place called Conge catba wba Chaga, he had, to ufe his own w^fds, two good obfervations, both by meridian and double altitudes, the mean of which determines this place to be in latitude 68° 46' North, and, by account, in longitude 240 2' Weft of Churchill River. On the 13th of July (having left Conge catba wba Chaga on the ad, and travelling ftill to the Weft m< North) he reached the Copper-mine Ri\^; and was not a little furprized to find it diffeis'fo much from the defcriptions d % given r INTRODUCTION. given of it by the natives at the fort; for, inftead of being likely to be navigable for a fhip, it is, at this part, fcarcely navigable for an Indian canoe; three falls being in fight, at one view, and being ehoaked up with fhoals and ftony ridges. s Here Mr. Hearne began his furvey of the river. This he continued till he arrived at its mouth, near which his Northern Indians maffacred twenty-one Efquimaux, whom they furprized in their tents. We fhall give Mr. Hearne's account of his arrival at the fea, in his own words. " After I the Indians had plundered the tents of the Ef- " quimaux of all the copper, Sec. they were then " again ready to affift me in making an end to " the furvey ; the fea then in fight from the North I Weft by Weft to the North Eaft, diftant about ** eight miles. It was then about five in the morn^- I ing of the 17th, when I again proceeded to fur- " vey the river to the mouth, ftill found, in every *' refpect, no ways likely, or a poffibility of be- I ing made navigable, being full of fhoals and *' falls; and, at the entrance, the river emptying " itfelf over a dry flat of the fhore. For the tide " was then out, and feemed, by the edges of the *' ice, to flow about twelve or fourteen feet, which " will only reach a little within the river's mouth. " That being the cafe, the water in the river had " not the leaft brackifh tafte. But I am fure of " its being the fea, or fome part thereof, by the " quantity of whale-bone and feal fkins the EC- " quimaux had at their tents; as alfo the num- " ber of feals which I faw upon the ice. The . " fea, at the river's mouth, was full of iflands and " fhoals, as far as I could fee, by the afiiftance of " a pocket telefcope; and the ice was not yet bro- " ken up, only thawed away about three quarters i of INTRODUCTION. " of a mile from the fhore, and a little way round *' the iflands and fhoals. 1 By the time I had completed this furvey, it " was about one in the morning of the 18th; but | in thefe high latitudes, and this time of the year, | the fun is always a good height above the ho- | rizon. It then came on a thick drizzling rain, I with a thick fog; and, as finding the river and I fea, in every refpect, not likely to be .of any | utility, I did not think it worth while to wait | for fair weather, to determine the latitude ex- i actly by an obfervation. But, by the extraordi- | nary care I totsfc in obferving the courfes and 44 diftances, walked from Congeeathawhachaaga, I where I had two good obfervations, the latitude 45 may be depended on? within twenty miles at 1 fartheft." From the map which Mr. Hearne oonftructed of the country through which he paffed, in this lingular journey, and which we have been permitted to copy upon our general chart, it appears that the mouth of the copper-miEjfejaver lies in the latitude 72°, and above 25° Weft longitude from the fort, from whence he took his departure *. The confequences refulting from this extenfive difcovery, are obvious. We now fee that the continent of North America ftretches from Hudfon's Bay fo far to the North Weft, that Mr. Hearne had travelled near thirteen hundred miles . * Mr. Hearne's Journey, back from the copper-mine river, to Fort Prince of Wales, lafted till June 30, 1792. From his firft fetting out till his return, he had employed near a year and feven monster The unparalleled hardftiips he flittered, and the effential fervice he performed, met with a fuitable reward from his matters, and he is now the Governor of Fort Prince of Wales, where be was taken prifoner by the French in 1782; and laft fummer returned tohisftation. before INTRODUCTION. before he arrived at the fea. His moft Weftern diftance from the coaft of Hudfon's Bay was near fix hundred miles *; and that his Indian guides were well,apprized of a vaft tract of continent ftretching farther on in that direction, is certain from many circumftances mentioned in his journal; one of which, as befides eftablifhing this fact, it prefents us with a very ftriking picture of favage life, has been transcribed in the following note f. What * The Hudfon's Bay company have a trading poft called Hudfon's Houfe, above five hundred miles up the country, in lat. 53° o' 32", and in long. 1060 27' 30". + This day, Jan. n, 1772, as the Indians were hunting, fome of thera law a ftrange fnow-fhoe track, which they followed, and at a confiderable diftance came to a little hut, where they found a young womanF-fitting alone. They brought her to the tents; and, on examining her, found that fhe was one of the Weftern Dt^f-rSbAdiwjAnS, and had been taken prifoner by the Arathapefcow Indians in the fummer 1770; and when the Indians, who took her prifoner, were near _$is.part in the fummer? 1771, fhe eloped from them, with an intent to return to her own country, but it being fo far off, and, after being taken prifoner, having come the whole way in canoes, with the winding of rivers and lakes, fhe had forgot the way; and had been in this little hut ever fince the firft fetting in of the fall. By her account of the moons paft, fince her elopement, it appears to be the middle of laft July when fhe left the Arathapefcow Indians, and had not feen a human face even fince. She fupported herfelf very well by'Glaring of rabbits, partridges, and fquirrels, arid-was now in good health and flefh; and, I think, as fine a woman of a real Indian, as I have feen in any part of North America. She had nothing to make fnares of but the finews of rabbits legs and feet, which fhe twifted together for that purpofe; and of the rabbits fkins had made herfelf a neat and warm winter's clothing. The ftock of materials fhe took with her when fhe eloped, c'onfift- ed of about five inches of an iron hoop for a knife; a ftone fteel, and other hard ftones as flints, together with other fire tackle, as tinder, &c.; about an inch and half of the fhank of ' the ihoeing of an arrow, of iron, of which fhe made an awl. She had not been long at the tents, when half a fcore of men wreftled to fee who fhould have her for their wife, when the Arathapefcow Indians took her prifone ftole on the tents in the night, when ihe inhabitar , that they afleep, INTRODUCTION. What is now, for the firft time, authentically laid before the Public, with regard to the difcoveries made by the Hudfon's Bay Company, was well known to the noble Lord who prefided at the board of Admiralty, when this voyage was undertaken ; and the intimate connection of thofe difcoveries with the Plan of the Voyage, of eourfe, regulated the inftructions given to Captain Cook. And now, may we not take it upon us to appeal to every candid and capable inquirer, whether that part of the inftructions which directed the Captain not to lofe time, in exploring rivers or inlets, or upon any other account, till he got into.the latitude of 650, was not framed judicioufly; as there were fuch indubitable proofs that no paffage exifted fo far to the South as any part of Hudfon's Bay, and that, if a paffage could be effected at all, part of it, at leaft, muft be tra- iut wfeen left their afleep, and killed every foul except herfelf and three other young women. Her father, mother, and hufband were in the fame tent with her, and they were all killed. Her child, of about five months old, fhe took with her, wrapped in die of her clothing, undifcovered, in the night. Bv. arrived at the place where the Arathapefcows had left wives, which was not far off, it being then day-break, thefe Indian women immediately began to examine her bundle; and having there found the child, took it from her and killed it immediately. The relation of this mocking fcene only fer- ved the lavages of my gang for laughter. Her country is fo far to the Wefiward, that fhe fays fhe never faw any iron, or other kind of metal, till taken prifoner; thofe of her tribe making their hatchets and chifels of deers horns, and knives of ftone and bone; their arrows are ftiod with a kind of fiate, bones,, and deers horns •, and their inftruments, to make their wood work, are nothing but beavers teeth. They have frequently heard of the ufeful materials the nations to the Eaft of them are fupplied with from the Englifh •, but, inftead of dr-awing nearer to be in the way of trading for iron work, &c. are obliged to retreat farther back, to avoid the Arathapefcow Indians, as thev make furprifipg Daughter amongft them every year, both winter and fummer. Hearne's MS. Journal. verfed INTRODUCTION. verfed by the fhips as far to the Northward as the latitude 720, where Mr. Hearne arrived at the fea ? We may add as a farther confederation, in flip* port of this article of the Inftructions, that Beer- ing's Afiatic difcoveries, -in 1728, having traced that continent to the latitude of 670, Captain Cook's approach toward that latitude was to be wifhed for, that he might be enabled to bring back more authentic information than the world had hitherto obtained, about the relative fituation and vicinity of the two continents, which was abfo- Jutely neceffary to be known, before the practicability of failing between the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, in any Northern direction, could be afcer- tained. After all, that fearch, in a lower latitude, which they who give credit (if any fuch there now be) to the pretended difcoveries of de Fonte, affect to wifh had been recommended to Captain Cook, has (if that will cure them of their credulity) been fatisfactorily made. The Spaniards, roufed from their lethargy by our voyages, and having caught a tipark of enterprize from our repeated vifits to the Pacific Ocean, have followed us more than once into the line of our difcoveries within the Southern tropic; and have alfo fitted out expeditions to explore the American continent to the North of California It is to be lamented, that there Should be any reafons why the tranfactions of thofe Spanifh voyages have not been fully difclofed, with .the fame liberal fpirit of information which other nations have adopted. But, fortunately, this exceffive caution of the court of Spain has been defeated, at leaft in one in- ftance, by the publication of an authentic Journal of their laft voyage of difcovery upon the 1 coaft INTRODUCTION. coaft of America, in 1775, for which the world is indebted to the Honourable Mr. Daines Bar- rington. This publication, which conveys fome Information of real confequence to geography, and has therefore been referred to more than once in the following work, is particularly^ valuable in this refpect, that fome parts of the coaft which Captain Cook, in his progrefs Northward, was prevented, by unfavourable winds, from approaching, were feen and examined by the Spanifh fhips who preceded him; and the perufal of the following extract from their Journal, may be recommended to thofe (if any fuch there be) who would reprefent it as an im^ perfection in Captain Cook's voyage, that he had hot an opportunity of examining the coaft of America, in the latitude afligned to the difcoveries of Admiral Fonte. " We now attempted to find out the ftraits of Admiral Fonte, though, as yet, we had not difcovered the Archipelago of St. Lazarus, through which he is faid to have failed. With this intent, we fearched every bay and recefs of the coaft, and failed round every headland, lying to in the night, that we might not lofe fight of this entrance. After thefe pains taken, and being favoured by a North Weft wind, it may be pronounced that no fuch ftraits are to be found*." In this Journal, the Spaniards boaft of " having reached fo high a latitude as 58% beyond what any other navigators had been able to effect in thofe feasf." Without diminifhincr * Journal of a voyage in 1775 by Don Francifco Antonio Maurelle, in Mr. Barrington's Mifcellanies, p. 508. -f- Ibid. p. 507. We learn from Maurelle's Journal that another voyage had been feme time before performed upon the coaft of America; but the utmoft Northern progrefs of it was to latitude 55°- the INTRODUCTION. the merit of their performance, we may be permitted to fay that it will appear very inconfide- table, indeed, in comparifon of what Captain Cook effected, in the voyage of which an account is given in thefe volumes. Befides exploring the land in the South Indian Ocean, of which Ker-r guelen, in two voyages, had been able to obtain but a very imperfect knowledge ; adding alfo many confiderable acc§|§pns to the geography of the Friendly Iflands; and difcovering the noble group, now called Sandwich Iflands, in the Northern part of the Pacific Ocean, of which not the faint- eft trace can be met with in the account of any former voyage; befides thefe preliminary difcoveries, the Reader of the following work will find, that in one fummer, our Englifh Navigator difcovered a much larger proportion of the North Weft coaft of America than the Spaniards, though fettled in the neighbourhood, had, in all their attempts, for above two hundred years, been able to do; That he has put it beyond all doubt that Beering and Tfcherikoff had really difcovered the continent of America in 1741, and has alfo eftablifhed the prolongation of that continent Weftward oppofite Kamtfchatka, which fpeculative writers, wedded to favourite fyftems, had affected fo much to difbelieve *, and which, though admitted by Muller, had, fince he wMt» been confidered as difproved by later Ruffian difcoveries f; That, befides afcertaining the true po- fition * Dr. Campbell, fpeaking of Beering's voyage in 1741, fays, " Nothing can be plainer than this truth, that his difcovery does £ not warrant any fuch fuppofition, as that the country he touch- " ed at was a great continent making part of North America." m See Coxe's Ruffian Difcoveries, p. 26, 27, &c. The fictions of fpeculative geographers in the Southern hemifphere, have been INTRODUCTION. fition of the Weftern coafts of America, with fome inconfiderable interruptions, from latitude 44° up to beyond the latitude 700, he has alfo afcertained the pofition of the North Eaftern ex-. tremity of Afia, by confirming Beering's difcoveries in 1728, and adding extenfive acceffions of his own ; That he has given us more authentic information concerning the iflands lying between the two continents, than the Kamtfchatka traders, ever fince Beering firft taught them to venture on this fea, had been able to procure J; That, by fixing the relative fituation of Afia and America, and difcovering the narrow bounds of the ftrait that divides them, he has thrown a blaze of light upon this important part of the geography of the globe, and folved the puzzling problem about the peopling of America, by tribes been continents ; in the Northern hemifphere, they have been feas. It may be obferved, therefore, that if Captain Cook in his firft voyages annihilated imaginary Southern lands, he has made amends for rhe havock, in his third voyage, by annihilating imaginary Northern feas, and filling up the vaft fpace, which had been allotted to them, with the folid continents of his new difcoveries of American land farther Weft and North than had hitherto been traced. X The Ruffians item to owe much to England, in matters of this fort. It is finguW enough that one of our countrymen. Dr. Campbell [See his edition Of Harris's voyages, Vol. ii. p. 1021.] haspreferved many valuable particulars of Beering's firft voyage, of which Muller himfelf, the Hiftorian of their earlier difcoveries, makes no mention} that it fhould be another of our countrymen, Mr. Coxe, who firft publifhed a fatisfac- ccount of their later difcoveries ; and that the King of Britain's fhips fhould traverfe the globe in 1778, to confirm to the Ruffian empire, the poffeffion of near thirty degrees, or above fix hundred miles of continent, which Mr, Engel, in his zeal for the practicability of a "North Eaft paffage, would prune away from the length of Afia to the Eaftward. See his Mimoires Geographiques, &c. Laufanne 1765 x which, however, contains much real information; and manv parts of which are confirmed by Captain Cook's American dif- a deftitute INTRODUCTION. deftitute of the neceffary means to attempt long navigations; and, laftly, That, though the principal object of the voyage failed, the world will be greatly benefited even by the failure, as it has brought us to the knowledge of the exiftence of the impediments, which future navigators may expect to meet with in attempting to go to the Eaft Indies through Beering's ftrait. The extended review we have taken of the preceding voyages, and the general outline we have fketched out, of the tranfactions of theJaft, which .are recorded at full length in thefe volumes, will not, it is hoped, be confidered as a prolix, or unneceffary detail. It will ferve to give a juft notion of the whole plan of difcovery executed by his Majefty's commands. And it appearing that much was aimed at, and much accomplifhed, in the unknown parts of the globe, in both he- mi fpheres, there needs no other confiderationj, to give full fatisfaction to thofe who poffefs an enlarged way of thinking, that a Variety of ufeful purpofes muft have been effected by thefe refearches. But there are others, no doubt, who, too diffident of their own abilities, or too indolent to exert them, would wifh to have their reflections afiifted, by pointing out what thofe ufeful purpofes are. For the ufe of fuch, the following enumeration of particulars is entered upon. And if there fhould be any, who affect to undervalue the plan, or the execution of our voyages, what fhall now be offered, if it do not convince them, may, at leaft, check the influence of their unfavourable decifion. i. It may be fairly confidered, as one great advantage accruing to the world from our late furveys of the globe, that they have confuted fanciful theories, too likely to give birth to impracticable undertakings. After INTRODUCTION. After Captain Cook's perfevering and fruitlefs traverfes through every corner of the Southern hemifphere, who, for the future, will pay any attention to the ingenious reveries of Campbell, de Broffes, and de Buffon ? or hope to eftablifh an intercourfe with fuch- a continent as Mauper- tuis's fruitful imagination had pictured ? A continent equal, at leaft, in extent, to all the civilized countries in the known Northern hemifphere, where new men, new animals, new productions of every kind, might be brought forward to our view, and difcoveries be made, which would open inexhauftible treafuresof commerce*. We can now boldly take it upon us to difcou- rage all expeditions, formed on fuch reafonings of fpeculative philofophers, into a quarter of the globe, where our perfevering Englifh navigator, inftead of this promifed fairy land, found nothing but barren rocks, fcarcely affording fhelter to penguins and feals; and dreary feas, and mountains of ice, occupying the immenfe fpace allotted to imaginary paradifes, and the only treafures there to be difcovered, to reward the toil, and to compenfate the dangers of the unavailing fearch. Or, if we carry our reflections into the Northern hemifphere, could Mr. Dobbs have made a Angle convert, much lefs could he have been the iuccefsful folicitor of two different expeditions, and have met with encouragement from the le- giflature, with regard to his favourite paffage through Hudfon's Bay, if Captain Chriftopher * See Maupertuis's Letter to the King of Prufiia. The author of the Preliminary Difcourfe to Bougainville's Voyage aux Ifles Malouines, computes that the Southern continent (for the exiftence of which, he owns, we muft depend more on the conjectures of philofophers, than on the teftimony of voyagers) contains eight or ten, millions of fquar-e leagues. had INTRODUCTION. had previoufly explored its coafts, and if Mr. Hearne had walked over the immenfe continent behind it ? Whether, after Captain Cook's and Captain Clerke's difcoveries on the Weft fide of America, and their report of the ftate of Beering's Strait, there can be fufficient encouragement to make future attempts to penetrate into the Pacific Ocean in any Northern direction, is a queftion, for the decifion of which the Public will be indebted to this work. 2. But our voyages will benefit the world, not only by difcouraging future unprofitable fearches, but alio by leffening the dangers and diftreffes formerly experienced in thofe feas, which are within the line of commerce and navigation, now actually fubfifting. In how many inftances have the miftakes of former navigators, in fixing the true fituations of important places, been rectified ? What acceffion to the variation chart? How many nautical obfervations have been collected, and are now ready to be confulted, in directing a fhip's eourfe, along rocky Chores, through narrow ftraits, amidft perplexing currents, and dangerous fhoals ? But, above all, what numbers of new bays, and harbours, and anchoring-places, are now, for the firft time, brought forward, where fhips may be fheltered, and their crews find tolerable refrefh- ments ? To enumerate all thefe would be to tran- fcribe great part of the journals of our feveral Commanders, whofe labours will endear them to every navigator, whom trade or war may carry into their tracks. Every nation that fends a fhip to fea, will partake of the benefit; but Great Britain herfelf, whofe commerce is boundlefs, muft take the lead in reaping the full advantage of her own difcoveries. In INTRODUCTION. In confequence of all thefe various improvements, leffening the apprehenfions of engaging in long, voyages, may we not reafonably indulge the pleafing hope, that frefh branches of corrirafei'de may, even in our own time, be attempted, and fucceflively carried on ? Our ;$iardy adventurers in the whale-fifhejrj, have already found their way, within thefe few years, into the South Atlantic; and who knows what frefh fources of commerce may ftill be opened, if'fhe* JSrofpect of gain%!t be added, to keep alive the fpirit o#%nerprife ? If the fituation of great Britain be too remote, other trading nations will affuredly avail them- felves of our difcoveries. We may foon expect to hear that the Ruffians, now inftructed by us where to find the American continent, have extended their voyages from the Fox Iflarid^-'fe Cook's River, and Prince William's Sound. And if Spain itfelf fhould not be tempted to trade from its moft Northern Mexican ports, by the frefh mine of wealth (tfjeovered in the furs of King George's Sound, which |ley may tranfport in their Manilla fhips, as a fav&yifltfc Commodity for the Chinefe market; that market may probably be fupplied by a direct trade to America, from Canton itfelf, with thof&v'valuable articles which the inhabitants of China have hitherto received, only by the tedious and expenfive circuit of Kamtfchatka and Kiachta. Thefe and many other commercial improvements may'reafonably be expected to refult from the Britifh difcoveries, "i6fen in our own times. But if we look forward fB future ages, and to future changes in the hiflsiy of commerce, by recollecting its various paft revolutions and migrations, we may be allowed to pleafe ourfelves with the INTRODUCTION. the idea of its finding its way, at laft, throughout the extent of the regions with which our voyages have opened an intercourfe; and there will be abundant reafon to fubfcribe to Captain Cook's obfervation with regard to New Zealand, which may be applied to other tracks of land explored by him, that " although they be far remote from " the prefent trading world, we can, by no -means, § tell what ufe future ages may make of the dif- *' coveries made by the prefent *." In this point of view, furely, the utility of the late voyages muft ftand confeffed ; and we may be permitted to fay, that the hiftory of their operations, which will be completed in thefe volumes, has the jufteft pretenfions to be called >«%* U ««/, as it will convey to lateft pofterity a treafure of interesting information. 3. Admitting, however, that we may have ex- prefled too fanguine expectations of commercial advantages, either within our own reach, or gradually to be unfolded at fome future period, as the - refult of our voyages of difcovery; we may ftill be allowed to confider them as a laudable effort to add to the ftock of human knowledge, with regard to an object which cannot but deferve the attention of enlightened man. To exert our faculties in deviling ingenious modes of fatisfying ourfelves about the magnitude and diftance or the fun ; to extend our acquaintance with the fyftem to which that luminary is the common centre, by tracing the revolutions of a new planet, or the appearance of a new comet; to carry our bold refearches through all the immenfity of fpace, where world beyond world rifes to the view of the afto- niffied obferver; thefe are employments which * Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 92. INTRODUCTION. none but thofe incapable of purfuing them can depreciate, and which every one capable of purfuing them muft delight in, as a dignified exercife of the powers of the human mind. But while we direct our ftudies to diftant worlds, which, after all our exertions, we muft content ourfelves with having barely difcovered to exift, it would be a ftrange neglect, indeed, and would argue a moft culpable want of rational curiofity, if we did not ufe our beft endeavours to arrive at a full acquaintance with the contents of our own planet; of that little fpot in the immenfe univerfe, on which we have been placed, and the utmoft limits of which, at leaft its habitable parts, we pof- fefs the means of afcertaining, and defcribing, by actual examination. So naturally doth this reflection prefent itfelf, that to know fomething of the terraqueous globe, is a favourite object with every one who can tafte the loweft rudiments of learning. Let us not .therefore think fo meanly of the times in which we live, as to fuppofe it poffible, that full juf- tice will not be done to the noble plan of difcovery, fo fteadily and fo fuccefsfully carried on, fince the acceffion of his Majefty ; which cannot fail to be confidered, in every fucceeding age, as a fplendid period in the hiftory of our country, and to add to our national glory, by diftinguifhing Great Britain as taking the lead in the moft arduous undertakings for the common benefit of the human race. Before thefe voyages took place, nearly half the furface of the globe we inhabit was hid in obfcurity and confufion. What is ftill wanting to complete our geography, may juftly be termed the minutice of that fcience. Vol. L 4. Let INTRODUCTION. 4. Let us now carry our thoughts fomewhat farther. It is fortunate for the interefts of knowledge, that acquifitions in any one branch, generally, and indeed unavoidably, lead to acquifitions in other branches, perhaps of ftill greater confe- quence ; and that we cannot even gratify mere curiofity, without being rewarded with valuable inftruction. This obfervation applies to the fubject before us. Voyages, in which new oceans have been traverfed, and in which new countries have been vifited, can fcarcely ever be performed, without bringing forward to our view frefh objects of fcience. Even when we are to take our report of what was difcovered, from the mere fai~ lor, whofe knowledge fcarcely goes beyond the narrow limits of his own profeffion, and whofe inquiries are not directed by philofophical difcern- menr, it will be unfortunate indeed, if fomething hath not been remarked, by which the fcholar may profit, and ufeful acceffions be made to our old ftock of information. And if this be the cafe in general, how much more muft be gained by the particular voyages now under confideration ? Befides naval officers equally fkilled to examine the coafts they might approach, as to delineate them accurately upon their charts, arrifts * were engaged, who, by their drawings might illuftrate what could only be imperfectly defcribed ; mathematicians -+/, who might treafure up an extenfive feries * Meff. Hodges and Webber. ■f Mr. Green in the Endeavour ; Meffrs. Wales and Bayly, in the Refolution and Adventure; Mr. Bayly, a fecond time, jointly with Captains Cook and King in this voyage i and Mr. Lyons, who accompanied Lord Mulgrave. The obfervations of Meffrs. Wales and Bayly, fluring Captain Cook's fecond voyage, are already in the hands of the Public, by the favour of the boaed of Longitude; and thofe of Captains Cook and King, and Mr. Bayly, during this laft, will appear immediately after our Publication. of Hi INTRODUCTION. of fcientific obfervations; and perfons verfed in the various departments of the hiftory of nature, who might collect, or record, all that they fhould find new and valuable, throughout the wide extent of their refearches. But while moft of thefe affociates of our naval dilcoverers, were liberally rewarded by the Public, there was one gentleman, who thinking it the nobleft reward he could re- •4»src, to have an opportunity of making the ample fortune he inherited from his anceftors, fub- fervient to the improvement of fcience, ftepped forward of his own accord, and fubmitting to the hardfhips and dangers of a circumnavigation of the globe, accompanied Captain Cook id the Endeavour. The learned world, I may alfo fay the unlearned, will never forget the obligations which it owes to Sir Jofeph Banks. What real acquifitions have been gained, by this munificent attention to fcience, cannot be better expreffed than in the words of Mr. Wales, who engaged in one of thefe voyages himfelf, and contributed largely to the benefits derived from them. " That branch of natural knowledge which " may be called nautical aftronomy, was undoubt- *' edly in its infancy, when thefe voyages were " firft undertaken. Both inftruments and obferv- 4< ers, which deferved the name, were very rare; " and fo late as the year 1770, it was found ne- 'sc ceffary, in the appendix to Meyer's fables, pub- ** lifhed by the Board of Longitude, to ftate '•' facts, in contradiction to the afiertions of fo u celebrated an aftronomer as the Abbe de la " Caille, that the altitude of the fun at noon, " the eafieft and moft fimple of all obfervations, *' could not be taken with certainty to a lefs e 2 " quantity INTRODUCTION. " quantity than five, fix, feven, or even eight " minutes*. But thofe who will give themfelves ** the trouble to look into the aftronomical obferva- " tions, made in Captain Cook's laft voyage, will I find, that there were few, even of the petty I officers, who could not obferve the diftance of I the moon from the fun, or a ftar, the moft de- " licate of all obfervations, with fufficient accura- " cy. It may be added, that the method of mak- " ing and computing obfervations for finding the ** variation of the compafs, is better known, and a more frequently practifed by thofe who have " been on thefe voyages, than by moft others. u Nor is there, perhaps, a perfon who ranks as an 1 officer, and has been concerned in them, who " would not, whatever his real fkill may be, feel 1 afhamed to have it thought that he did not know *' how to obferve for, and compute the time at s' fea ; though but a fhort while before thefe voy- i ages were fet on foot, fuch a thing was fcarcely " ever heard of amongft feamen ; and even firft- * The Abbe's words are, " Si ceux qui promettent une fi " grande precifion dans ces fortes de methodes, avoient navi- " gue quelque terns, ils auroient vu fouvent, que dans l'ob- " fervation la plus fimple de toutes, qui eft celle de la hauteur " du foleil a midi, deux obfervations, munis de bons quartiers " de reflexion, bien rectifies, different entr'eux, lorfqu'ils obfer- " vent chacun a part, de 5', 6', 7', & 8'." Ephimer. 1755—1765. Introduction, p. 32. It muft be, however, mentioned, in juftice to M. de la Caille, that he attempted to introduce the lunar method of difcovering the longitude, and propofed a plan of calculations of the moon's diftance from the fun and fixed ttars; but through the imperfection of his inftruments, his fuccefs was much lefs than that method was capable of affording. The bringing it into general ufe was referved for Dr. Mafkelyne, our Aftronomer Royal. See the preface to the Tables for correcting the Effects of Refraction and Parallax, publifhed by the Board of Longitude, under the Dire&ion of Dr. Shepherd, Plumian Profeffor of Aftronomy and Experimental Philofophy at Cambridge, ire 1772. " rate INTRODUCTION. 1 rate aftronomers doubted the poffibility of do- ; ing it with fufficient exactnefs*. I The number of places, at which the rife ; and times of flowing of tides have been obferv- ■ ed, in thefe voyages, is very great; and hence an important article of ufeful knowledge is af- '• forded. In thefe obfervations, fome very cu- ! rious and even unexpected circumftances have ; offered themfelves to our confideration. It will be fufficient to inftance the exceedingly fmall 1 height to which the tide rifes, in the middle of 1 the great Pacific Ocean; where it falls -fhort, * In addition to Mr. Wales's Remark, it may be obferved, that the proficiency of our naval officers in taking obfervations at fea, muft ultimately be attributed to the great attention paid to this important object by the Board of Longitude at home; liberal rewards having been given to mathematicians. for perfecting the lunar tables, and facilitating calculations ; to artifts for conftrudring more accurate inftruments for obferving, and watches better adapted to keeping time at fea. It appears, therefore, that the voyages of difcovery, and the operations of the board of longitude went hand in hand ; and they muft #be combined, in order to form a juft eftimate of the extent of the plan carried into execution fince his Majefty's acceffion, for improving aftronomy and navigation. But, befides the eftablifh- ment of the Board of Longitude on its prefent footing, which has had fuch important confequences, it muft alfo be ever acknowledged, that his prefent Majefty has extended his royal patronage to every branch of the liberal arts and ufeful fcience. The munificent prefent to the Royal Society for defraying the expence of obferving the tranfit of Venus;—the inftitution of the Academy of Painting and Sculpture ; — the magnificent apartments allotted to the Royal and Antiquary Societies, and to the Royal Academy, at Somerfet Place •,—the fupport of the Garden of Exotics at Kew, to improve which, Mr. Mafon was fent to the extremities of Africa ;—the fubfiantial encouragement afforded to learned men and learned works, in various departments ; and particularly, that afforded to Mr. Herfchell, which has enabled him to devote himfelf intirely to the improvement of aftronomy ; thefe, and many other inftances which might 1SS enumerated, would have greatly diftinguifhed his Majefty's reign, even if he had not been the patron of thofe fuccefsful attempts to perfeft geography and navigation by fo many voyages of difcovery. *' two- INTRODUCTION. 1 two-thirds at leaft, of what might have been ex-' ' pected from theory and calculation. *' The direction and force of currents at fea, ' make alfo an important object. Thefe voyages I will be found to contain much ufeful infofma- ; tion on this head ; as well relating to feas nearer '■ home, and which, in confequence, are navigat- ; cd every day, as to thofe which are more re- • mote, but where, notwithftanding, the know- ; ledge of thefe things may be of great fervice to ; thofe who are deftined to navigate them here- : after. To this head alfo we may refer the great ; number of experiments which have been made ; for inquiring into the depth of the fea, its tem- 1 perature, and faltnefs at different depths, and in 1 a variety of places and climates. S An extenfive foundation has alfo been laid ; for improvements in magnetifm, for difcovering : the caufe and nature of the polarity of the nee- ■ die, and a theory of its variations, by the num- ; ber and variety of the obfervations and expe- ■ riments which have been made, both on the ; variation and dip, in almoft all parts of the ; world. Experiments alfo have been made, in confequence of the late voyages, on the effects ■ of gravity, in different and very diftant places, • which may ferve to increafe our ftock of natu- ; ral knowledge. From the fame fource of infor- ; mation we have learned, that the phaenomenon, ; ufually called the aurora borealis, is not pecu- ; liar to high Northern latitudes, but belongs, ; equally, to all cold climates, whether they be ; North or South. " But, perhaps, no part of knowledge has been '' fo great a gainer by the late voyages, as- that " of I INTRODUCTION. of botany. We are told * that, at leaft, twelve hundred new plants have been added to the known fyftem ; and that very confiderable additions have been made to every other branch of natural hiftory, by the great fkill and in- duftry of Sir Tofeph Banks, and the other gen- I tlemen t who have accompanied Captain Cook ' for that purpofe." To our naval officers in general, or to their learned aflbciates in the expeditions, all the foregoing improvements of knowledge may be traced ; but there is one very Angular improvement indeed, ftill behind, for which, as we are folely indebted to Captain Cook, let us ftate it in his own words : " Whatever may be the public judgment about " other matters, it is with real fatisfaction, and *' without claiming any merit but that of atten- " tion to Jpy duty, that I can conclude this ac- " count with an obfervation, which facts enable " me to make, that our having difcovered the *' poffibility of preferving health amongft a nu- " merous fhip's company, for fych a length of " time, in fuch varieties/ of climate, and amidft te fuch continued hardfhips and fatigues, will make " this voyage remarkable, in the opinion of every " benevolent perfon, when the difputes about a " Southern continent fhall have ceafed to engage * See Dr. Shepherd's Preface, as above.' f Dr. Solander, Dr. Forfter and his fen, and Dr. Sparman. Dr. Forfter has given us a fpecimen of the botanical difcoveries of his voyage in the Ckaracteres Generum Plantarum, &c, and much curious philofophical matter is contained in his Obfervations made in a Voyage round the World. Dr. Sparman alfo, on his return to Sweden, favoured us with a publication, in which he expatiates on the advantages accruing to natural hiftory, to aftronomy, geography, general phyfics, and navigation, from our South Sea voyages. " the INTRODUCTION. " the attention, and to divide the judgment of ** philosophers £. 5. But while our late voyages have opened fb many channels to an increafe of knowledge in the feveral articles already enumerated; while they have extended our acquaintance with the contents of the globe; while they have facilitated old tracks, and have opened new ones for commerce; while they have been the means of improving the fkill of the navigator, and the fcience of the aftrono- mer; while they have procured to us fo valuable acceffions in the feveral departments of natural hiftory, and furnifhed fuch opportunities of teaching us how to preferve the healths and lives of feamen, let us not forget another very important object of ftudy, for which they have afforded to the fpeculative philofopher ample materials : I mean the ftudy of human nature in various fituations, equally interefting as they are uncommon. However remote or fecluded from frequent in- tercourfe with more polifhed nations, the inhabitants of any parts of the world be, if hiftory or our own obfervation fhould make it evident that they have been formerly vifited, and that foreign manners and opinions, and languages, have been blended with their own, little ufe can be made of what is obferved amongft fuch people, toward drawing a real picture of man in his natural uncultivated ftate. This feems to be the fituation of the inhabitants of moft of the iflands that lie contiguous to the continent of Afia, and of whofe manners and inftitutions the Europeans, who oc- cafionally vifit them, have frequently given us accounts. But the iflands which our enterprifing dif- * Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 293. INTRODUCTION. coverers vifited 'W the centre of the South Pacific Ocean, and are, indeed, the principal fcenes of their operations, were untrodden ground. The inhabitants, as far as could be obferved, were unmixed wJStf1 any different tribe, by occafional in- tercourfe, fubfeqfeent to their original fettlement there; left intirely to their own powers for every art of life; and to their own remote traditions for every political or religious cuftom or inftitu- tion ; uninformed by fcience; unimproved by education ; in fhort, a fit foil from whence a careful obferver could collect facts for forming a judgment, ho^far unaffifted human nature will be apt to degenerate ; and in what refpects it can ever be able to excel. Who could have thought, that the brutaf ferocity of feeding upon human flefh, and the horrid fuperftition of offering human fa- crifices, fhould be found to exift amongft the natives lately difcovered in the Pacific Ocean, who, in other refpects, appear to be no ftrangers to the fine feelings of humanity, to have arrived at a certain ftage of fecial life, and to be habituated to fubordination and government which tend fo naturally to reprefs the eSSllitions of \pM paflion, and expand the latent powers of the underftand- ing? Or, if we turn from this melancholy picture, which will fuggeft copious mattetifor philofophical /peculation, can we without aftdnifhment, obferve to what a degree of perfection the fame tribe (and indeed we may here join, in fome of thofe in- ftances, the American tribes vifiisi£i$jilse eourfe of the prefent voyage) have carrteswtheir favourite amufements, the plaintive fongs of their women, their dramatic entertainments, their dances, their Olympian games, as we may call them * the orations of their Chiefs; the chants of their priefts; IN TRODUCT 10 N. the folemnity of their religious proceffions; their arts and manufactures; their ingenious contrivances to fupply the want of proper materials, and of effective tools and machines; and the wonderful productions of their perfevering labour under a complication of difadvantages I their clmfi} and their mats; their weapons ; their fifhing-inftruments ; their ornaments; their utenfils; which indefign and in execution, may vie with whatever modern Europe, or claffical antiquity can exhibit ? It is a favourite ftudy with the fcholar to trace the remains of Grecian or Roman workmanfhip; he turns over his Montfaucon with learned fatis- faction ; and he gazes with rapture on the noble collection of Sir William Hamilton. The amufe- ment is rational and inftructive. But will not his cu- riofity be more awakened, will he not find even more real matter for important refle^top, by paffing an hour in furveying the numerous fpecimens of the ingenuity our newly difcovered friends brought from the utmoft receffes of the globe, to enrich the Britifh Mufeum, and the valuable repofitory of Sir Afhton Lever? If the curiofities of ^gTAfhton's Sandwich-rosm alone, were the only acquisition gained by our vifits to the Pacific Ocean, who that has tafte to admire, or even eyes to behold, could hefitate to pronounce, that Captain Cook had not failed in vain ? The expence of his three voyages - ^di--not, perhaps, far exceed that of digging out the buriejl«pontents of Herculaneum. And we may add, that the novelties of the Society or Sandwich iflands, feem better calculated to engage the attention of the ftudious in our times, than the antiquities, which exhibit proofs of Roman magnificence. The grounds for making this remark cannot be better explained, than in the words of a very in- i genious INT RO DUCT I O N. genious writer : " In an.age (fays Mr. War-ton *), *' advanced to the higheft degree of refinement, " that fpecies of curiofity commences, which is " bufied in contemplating the progrefs of fecial " life, in difplaying the gradation of fociety, and " in tracing the gradations from barbarifm to civi- 1 lity. That thefe Speculations fhould become the *t favourite topics of fuch a period is extremely " natural. We look back on the favage condition li of our anceftors with the triumph of Superiority; " and are pleafed to mark the fteps by which we *' have been raifed from rudenefs to elegance; and *' our reflections on this fubject are accompanied " with a confcious pride, arifing, in a great mea- u fure, from a tacit comparifon of the infinite dif- " proportion between the feeble efforts of remote ** ages, and our prefent improvements in know- '* ledge. In the mean time, the manners, monu- " ments, cuftoms, practices, a$j$ opinions of an- " tiquity, by forming fo ftrong a contraft with " thofe of our own times, and by exhibiting hu- il man nature and human inventions in new lights, " in unexpected appearances, and in various forms, " are objeHs which forcibly ftrike a feeling ima- *' gination. Nor does this fpectacle afford no- *' thing more than a fruitlefs gratification to the *' fancy. It teaches us to fet a juft eftimation on " our own acquifitions, -iaUd encourages us to che- " rifh that cultivation, which is fo clofely con- u nected with the exiftence &0i the exercife of '* every fecial virtue." We need not here obferve, that the manners, monuments,, cuftoms, practices, and opinions of the prefent inhabitants of the Pacific Ocean, or of the Weft fide of North America, form the ftrongeft contraft with thofe of our l Preface to his Hiftory of Englifh Poetry.' INTRODUCTION. own time in enlightened Europe; and that a feel- , ing imagination will probably be more ftrack with the narration of the ceremonies of a Natche at Tongataboo, thatfof a Gothic tournament at London ; with the contemplation of the coloffufes of Eafter Ifland, than of t6£ myfterious remains of Stonehenge. Many Angularities, refpect ing what may be called the natural hiftory of the human fpecies, in different climates, will, on the authority?^ our late navigators, open abundant Sources for philofophi- cal difcuSfion. One queftion of this fort, in particular, which had formerly divided the opinions of the inquifitive, as to the exiftence, if not of " gi- *' ants ori'fie earth," at leaft of a race (inhabiting a district bordering on the North fide &§»the Strait of Magalhaens), whofe Stature confiderably exceeds that of the bulk of mankind, will no longer be doubted or disbelieved. And the ingenious objections of the Sceptical author of Recherches fur les Americains *, will weigh nothing in the balance againft the concurrent and accurate teftimony of Byron, Wallis, and Carteret. Perhaps there cannot be a more interefting inquiry thaCto trace the migrations of the various families or tribes that have peopled the globe; and in no refpect have our late voyages been more fertile in curious difcoveries. It was known in general (and I fhall ufe the words of Kaempfer-f-), that the Afiatic nation called Malayans, " in for- " mer times, had by much the greateft trade in " the Indies, and frequented with their merchant " fhips, not only all the coafts of Afia, but ven- " tured even over to the coafts of Africa, parti- * Tom. i. p. 331. + Hiftory of Japan, Vol. i. p. 93, " cularly INTRODUCTION. *J cularly to 'the great ifland of Madagascar *. " The title which the king of the Malayans af- *' fumed to himfelf, of Lord of the Winds and I Seas to the Eaft and to the Weft, is an evident ** proof of this; but much more the Malayan i language, which fpread moft all ov®g~the Eaft, i much after the fame manner as f^merly the *' Latin, and of late the French, did all over Eu- " rope." Thus far, I fay, was known. But that from Madagafcar to the Marquefes and Eafter lfland, that is, nearly from the Eaft fide of Africa, till we approach toward the Weft fide of America, a fpace including above half the circumference of the globe, the fame tribe or nation, the Phoenicians, as we may call them, of the Oriental world, fhould have made their fettlements, and founded colonies throughout almoft every intermediate ftage of this immenfe tract, in iflands at amazing diftances from the mother continent, and ignorant of each others exiftence ; this is an historical fact, which could be but very imperfectly known before Captain Cook's two firft voyages difcovered So many new inhabited Spots of land lurking in the boSom of the South Pacific Ocean j and it is a fact which does not reft folely on Similarity of cuftoms and inftitutions, but has been eftablifhed by the moft Satisfactory of all proofs, that drawn from affinity of language. Mr. Marf- den, who feems to have confidered this curious * That the Malayans have not only frequented Madagafcar, but have alfo been the progenitors of fome of the prefent race of inhabitants there, is confirmed to us by the teftimony of Monfieur de Pages, who vifited that ifland fo late as 1774. "Us m'ont pa- " ru provenir des diverfes Races ; leur couleur, leurs cheveux, " & leur corps l'indiquent. Ceux que je n'ai pas cru eriginaires " des anciens naturels du pays, font petits & trapus ; ils ont les " cheveux prefque unis, & font olimatres comme les Malayes, avec " qui ils ont, en general, une efpece de refemblance." Voyages des M, des Pages, T. ii. p. 90. Subject INTRODUCTION. fubject with much attention, fays, that the links of the latitudinal chain remain yet to be traced*. The difcovery of the Sandwich Iflands in this laft voyage, has added fome links to the chain. But Captain Cook had not an opportunity of carrying his refearches into the more Wefterly parts of the North Pacific. The Reader, therefore, of the following work will not, perhaps, think that the Editor was idly employed when he fubjoined fome notes, which contain abundant proof that the inhabitants of the Ladrones, or Marianne iflands, and thofe of the Carolines, are to be traced to the fame common Source, with thofe of the iflands vifited by our fhips. With the like view, of exhibiting a Striking picture of the amazing extent of this Oriental language, which marks, if not a common original, at leaft an intimate intercourfe between the inhabitants of places fo very remote from each other, he has inferted a comparative table of their numerals, upon a more enlarged plan than any that has hitherto been executed M * Archseolog. Vol. vi. p. 155. See alfo his Hiftory of Sumatra, p. 166. from which the following paffage is tranfcribed. " Befides the Malaye, there are a variety of languages fpoken " on Sumatra, which, however, have not only a manifeft " affinity among themfelves, but alfo to that general language " which is found to prevail in, and to be indigenous to, all M the iflands of the Eaftern feas; from Madagafcar to the re- " moteft of Captain Cook's difcoveries, comprehending a •' wider extent than the Roman or any other tongue has yet " boafted. In different places, it has been more or lefs mixed " and corrupted; but between the moft diflimilar branches, jj an eminent famenefs of many radical words is apparent; *' and in fome very diftant from each other, in point of fituation : " As, for inftance, the Philippines and Madagafcar, the de- " viation of the words is fcarcely more than is obferved in the V dialedls of neighbouring provinces of the fame kingdom." •+■ We are indebted to Sir Jofeph Banks, for a general outline of this, in Hawkefworth's Collection, Vol. iii. p. 7.77. The Reader will find our enlarged Table at the end of the third volume, Appendix, No. a. Our INTRODUCTION. Our Britifh. difcoverers have not only thrown a blaze of light on the migrations of the tribe which has (o wonderfully fpread itfelf throughout the iflands in the Eaftern Ocean; but they have alfo favoured us with much curious information concerning another of the families of the earth, whofe lot has fallen in lefs hofpitable climates. We fpeak of the Efquimaux, hitherto only found feated on the coafts of Labradore and Hudfon's Bay, and who differ in feveral characteriftic marks from the inland inhabitants of North America. That the Greenlanders and they agree in every circumstance of cuftoms, and manners, and language, which are demonftrations of an original identity of nation, had been difcovered about twenty years ago*. Mr. Hearne, in 1772, traced this unhappy race farther back, toward that part of the globe from whence they had originally coafted along in their fkin boats, having met with fome of them at the mouth of the Coppermine River, in the latitude of 720, and near five hundred leagues farther Weft than Pickerfgill's moft Wefterly Station in Davis's Strait. Their being the fame tribe who now actually inhabit the iflands and coafts on the Weft fide of North America, oppofite Kamtfchatka, was a difcovery, the completion of which was referved for Captain Coak« The Reader of the following work will find them at Norton Sound ; and at Oonalafhka, and Prince William's Sound ; that is, near 1500 leagues dif- # See Crantz's Hiftory of Greenland, Vol. i. p. z6z ; where we are told that the Moravian Brethren, who, with the confent and furtherance of Sir Hugh Pallifer, then Governor of Newfoundland, vifited the Efquimaux on the Labradore coaft, found that their language, and that of the Greenlanders, do not differ fo much as that, of the High and Low Dutch. tant INTRODUCTION. tant from their ftations in Greenland, and on the Labradore coaft. And left fimilitude of manners Should be thought to deceive us, a table exhibiting proofs of affinity of language, which was drawn up by Captain Cook, and is inferted in this work *, will remove every doubt from the mind of the moft fcrupulous inquirer after truth. There are other doubts of a more important kind, which, it may be hoped, will now no longer perplex the ignorant, or furnifh matter of cavil to the ill-intentioned. After the great difcovery, or at leaft the full confirmation of the great difcovery, of the vicinity of the two continents of Afia and America, we truft that we fhall not be any more ridiculed, for believing that the former could eafily furnifh its inhabitants to the latter. And thus, to all the various good purpofes already enumerated, as anfwered by our late voyages, we may add this laft, though not the leaft important, that they have done fervice to religion, by robbing infidelity of a favourite objection to the credibility of the Mofaic account of the peopling of the earth, -f. f|ll|| 6. Hitherto * See Appendix, No. 6. The Greenlanders, as Crantz telk us, call themfelves Karalit; a word not very unlike Kanagyft> the name, affumed by the inhabitants of Kodiack, one of the Schumagin iflands, as Staehlin informs us. m A contempt of Revelation is generally the refult of ignorance, conceited of its poffefling fuperior knowledge. Obferve how the Author of Recherches Philofophiques fur les Ami- ricains, expreffes himfelf on this very point, j" Cette diftance § que Mr. Antermony veut trouver fi peu importante, eft a- " peu-pres de huit cent lieues Gauloifes au travers d'un ocean " perilleux, & impsffible a franchir avec des canots auffi chetifs " & auffi fragiles que le font, au rapport d'Yfbrand Ides, les " chaloupes des Tungufes," &c. &c. T. i. p. 156. Had this writer known that the two continents are not above thirteen leagues (inftead of tight hundred) diftant from each other, and that. INTRODUCTION. 6. Hitherto we have confidered our voyages as having benefited the difcoverers. But it will be afked, Have they conveyed, or are they likely ever to convey, any benefit to the difcovered ? It would afford exquifite fatisfaction to every benevolent mind, to be instructed in facts, which might enable us, without hefitation, to anfwer this queftion in the affirmative. And yet, perhaps, we may indulge the pleafing hope, that, even in this refpect, our Ships have not failed in vain. Other difcoveries of new countries have, in effect, been wars, or rather maffacres; nations have been no fooner found out, than they have been extirpated; and the horrid cruelties of the conquerors of Mexico and Peru can never be remembered, without blufhing for religion and human nature. But when the receffes of the globe are investigated, not to enlarge private dominion, but to promote general knowledge ; when we vifit new tribes of our fellow-creatures as friends; and wifh only to learn' that they exift, in order to bring them within the pale of thepf- fices of humanity, and to relieve the wants of their imperfect State of Society, by communicat-r ing to them our Superior attainments ; voyages of difcovery planned with fuch benevolent views by George the Third, and executed by Cook, have not, we truft, totally failed in this refpect. Our repeated vifits, and long continued intercourse with the natives of the Friendly, Society, and Sandwich Iflands, cannot but have darted fome rays of light on the infant minds of thofe poor iflands. Vol. J. aryow fpace of fea, there are intervWainig^ t have ventured to urge this argument in. H's notion of the quarter from which North original inhabitants. f people. '$}$$ R O D U C T I O N. people. The uncommon objects they have thus had opportunities of obferving and admiring, will naturally tend to enlarge their Stock of ideas, and to furnifh new materials for the exereife of ffie^ reafon. Comparing themfelves with their vifiters, they cannot but be ftruck with the deepeft conviction of their own inferiority, and be impelled, by the ftrongeft motives, to Strive to emerge°fr8ra ir, and to rife nearer to a level with thofe^^P dren of the Sun who deignedt^9^p£ai$Qh them, and left behind fo many fpecimens 'or'their generous and humane attention. The very introduction of our. ufeful Animals and vegetables, $$* adding frefh means of fubfiftence, v/ill have added to their ccjffifirts of life, and immediate enjoyments; and if .this be the prrJ^:'benefit they are ever to receive, who will pronounce that much has not been gained ? But may we not carry our wifhes and our hopes ftill farther? Great Britain itfelf, when firft vifited by the Phoenicians, was inhabited by painted Savages, rjot? perhaps, bleSfed with higher attainments than are poSfeSfed by the prefent natives of New Zealand ; certainly lefs civinzed than thofe of Tongataboo or Ota- heite. Our having opened an intercourse with them, is the firf^ftep toward their improvement. Who knows, but that our late voyages may be the means appointed by Providence, of Spreading, In due time, the bleffings of civilization, amongft the numerous tribes of the South Pacific Ocean ; of abolifhing their horrid repafts and their horrid rites ; and of laying the foundation for future and more effectual plans, to prepare them for holding an honourable ftation amongft the nations of the e^rJII? This, at leaft, is certain, that our having, as it were, brought them into exiftence by our .JSf$3%f extenfive .*» T'R O D U C T I O N. extenfive refearches, will Suggeft to us frefh motive? of devout gratitude to the Supreme Being, for having bleffeoWwith advantages hitherto withheld from So great a proportion of the human P|tee; and will operate powerfully to incite us to perSevere in every feafible attempt, to be his mUFruments in refcuing millions of fellow-creatures from their prefent ftate of humiliation. The feveral topics, which occurred, as fuitable to this general Introduction, being now difeuffed, nothing remains but to ftate a few particulars, about whuSh the reader of thefe volumes has a figrflf'td fexpedt fome in:fe?rnation. Captain Cook, knowing, before he failed upon this laft expedition, that it was expected from him to relate, as well as to execute, its operations, had ©fken care to prepare fuch a journal as might be made uSe of for publication. This journal, which exifts in his own hand-writing, has been faithfully adhered to. It is not a bare extract from his log-books, but contains many remarks which, it appears, had not been inferted by him in the nautical register; and it is alfo enriched with considerable communications from Mr. Anderfon, Surgeon of the Refolution. The confeSfed abilities, and great affiduity, of Mr. Anderfon, in obferving every thing that related either to natural hiftory, or to manners and language ; and the defire which, it is well known, Captain Cook, on all occafions, Shewed to have the affiftance of that gentleman, ftamped a great value on his collections. That nothing, therefore, might be wanting to convey to the Public the belt pofiible account of the tranfactions of the Voyage, his journal, by the order of Lord Sandwich, was alio put into the hands of the Editor, who was authorized f 2 and MM TH30T) U C T I O N. and directed to avail himfelf of the information it might be found to contain, about matters imperfectly touched, or altogether omitted, in Captain Cook's manufcript.. This tafk has been executed in Such a manner, that the reader will Scarcely ever be at a lofs to distinguish in what inftances recourfe has been had to Mr. AnderSon. To preclude, if pofiible, any miftake, the copy of the firft and fecond volumes, before it went to the printer, was fubmitted to Captain King; and after it had been read over and corrected by one fo well qualified to point out any inaccuracies, the Earl of Sandwich had the goodnefs to give it a peru- fal. As to the third volume, nothing more need be faid, than that it was completely prepared for the prefs by Captain King himfelf. All that the Editor of the work has to anfwertfor, are the notes occafionally introduced in the eourfe of the two volumes, contributed by Captain Cook; and this introduction, which was intended as a kind of epilogue to our Voyages of difcovery. He muft be permitted, however, to Say, that he confiders himSelf as intitled to no inconfiderable Share of candid indulgence' from the Public; having engaged in a very tedious and troublefome undertaking upon the moft difinterefted motives ; his only reward being the Satisfaction he feels, in having been able to do an effential Service to the family of our great navigator, who had honoured him in the journal of this voyage, with the appellation of Friend. They who have repeatedly afked why this publication has been So long delayed, need only look at the volumes, and their attendant illuftrations and ornaments, to be Satisfied that it might, with at leaft equal reafon, be wondered at, that INTRODUCTION. it has not been delayed longer. The Journal of Captain Cook, from the firft moment that it came into the hands of the Editor, had been ready for the Prefs; and Captain King had left with him his part of the narrative, fo long ago as his departure for the Weft Indies, when he commanded the Refiftance man of war. But much, befides, remained to be done. The charts, particularly the general one, were to be prepared by Mr. Roberts, who gives an account of his work in the note * | the very numerous and elegant * Soon after our departure from England, I was inftrucled by Captain Cook to complete a map of the world as a general chart, from the belt materials he was in poffeffion of for that purpofe -, and before his death this bufinefs was in a great meafure ac- complifhed: That is, the grand outline of the whole was arranged,, leaving only thofe parts vacant or unfinifhed, which he expected to fall in with and explore. But on our return home, when the fruits of our voyage were ordered by the Lords Com- miffioners of the Admiralty to be publifhed, the care of the general chart being configned to me, I was directed to prepare it from the lateft and beft authorities ; and alfo to introduce Captain Cook's three fucceffive tracks, that all his difcoveries, and the different routs he had taken might appear together; by this means to give a general idea of the wtrole. This tafk having been performed by me, it is neceffary, for the information of the Reader, to ftate the heads of the feveral authorities which I have followed in fuch parts of the chart as differ from what was drawn up immediately under the infpettion of Captain Cook : And when the Public are made acquainted, that many materials, neceffary to complete and elucidate the work, were not, at the tiftfe, on board the Refolution,or in his poffeffion, the reafon will appear very obvious, why thefe alterations and additions were introduced contrary* to the original drawing. Firft then, I have followed clofely the very excellent and correct, charts of the Northern Atlantic Ocean, publifhed by Meffrs. de Verdun de la Crenne, de Borda, et Pringre in 1775 and 1776 ; which comprifethe coaft of Norway from the Sud Hoek, in the latitude of 62, degrees North, to Trelleburg, Denmark, the coaft of Holland, North coaft of Great Britain, Orkneys, Shetland, Ferro Ifles, Iceland, coafts of France, Spain, and Portugal, to Cape St. Maria on the coaft of Africa ; including INTRODUCTION. elegant drawings of Mr. Webber were to be reduced by him to the proper fize; artift&'were next including the Azores, Canaries, Cape de Verd, Antilles, and Weft Indian i|ands from Barbadoes to the Eaft end of Cuba } the North part of Newfoundland and the Labradore coaft, as far as the latitude of <;7° degrees North. Ireland, and part of the coaft of Scotland, is laid down from Mr. Mackenzie's .late furveys; and the fouth coaft of England from a chart publifhed by Mr. Faden in 1780, taken from Mr. l'Abbe Dicquemare. The North part of the coaft of Labradore,. from ihglatitude of 57° North, to Button's Iflands in the entrance of Hudfon's Strait, is taken from Monfieur Bellin's chart, as is alfo the North coaft of Norway and Lapland, including the White Sea, Gulf of Bothnia, Baltic Sea, and the Eaft coaft of Greenland.. The Gulf of Finland, from a large (MS) chart, now engraving for the ufe of fome private merchants. The Weft India iflands, from the Eaft end of Cuba to the Weft end, including Jamaica and the Bahama iflands, are from a chart publifhed in London by Sayer and Bennett, in 1779. The South fide of Cuba from Point Gorda to Cape de Cruz, is laid down from Monfieur Bellin, in 1762. The coafts of Newfoundland, and the Gulf of St. Laurence, from the furveys made by Captain Cook, and Meffrs. Gilbert and Lane. Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, Ifland of St, John, River St. Laurence, Canada, and New England to the River Delaware, from J. F. W. des Barres, Efq \ in 1777 and 1778; and charts publifhed in France by order of the King, in 1780, intituled, Neptune Americo-Septrentrional, &c. And from thefe charts alfo are taken the coaft of Penfylvania, New Jerfey, Maryland, Virginia, North and South Carolina, Georgia, Eaft and Weft Florida, as well as the interior parts of the country to the Eaft fide of Lake Ontario. The other parts of this lake, as likewife Lakes Eria, Hurons, r, were copied from Mr. Green's maps lern part of this laft mentioned lake is uical obfervations made by order of the at Mifhippicotton Houfe, ': Bay I took from a chart, compiled 1 all the moft authentic maps he could Michigan, and Superii of America: The Nor fixed from the aftrono Hudfon's Bay Compan- The whole of Hudfon's by Mr. Marl . procure of thofe parts with which I was favoured by San; Wegg, Efq ; F. R. S. and Governor of that Company, who alfo politely furnifhed me with Mr. Hearne's Journals, and the map of his route to the Coppermine River, which is faithfully inferted on the chart, together' with the furvey of Chefterfield Inl* 1!NLT RODUCTION. to be found out who would undertake to engrave tbeaki.the'prior engage'ments of thofe artifts were Inlet made by Captairi Ghriftopher and Mir. Mofes Norton, in 176a; and the difcotoerjes from York Fort to Cumberland, and Hudfon Houfes (this laft is the moft Weftern fettlement belonging to the GAhpdny), extending to Lake Winipeg, from the drafts of Mr. BhiKp Turnor, made in 1178 and 1779, corrected by aftronomical obfervations. And from this lake, the difpofition of the other lakes to the Southward of it, and which communicate with it, is formed, and laid down from a map conitructed by Mr. Spurrel, in the Company's iervice. The Albany and Moofe rivers to Gloucefter Hpufe, and to Lake Abitibbte and Superior, are alfo drawn from a map of obfervations for the longitudes. :nland, as chiefly laid down from the i made by Lieut. R. Pickerfgill in the Lion brig in 1776, which determine the line of the coaft only, ttifbv cjuaBtitfe of ice- choak up every bay and inle the eoafty which- f<SMfier.fy; .Froja tte mouth e£ tft^MIfflifjp'pi-Ki and- the other rivers branching from 0 Cape Rozo, and the Weftei nthis the fummer feafon, quite free :r, including its fource, ; all the coaft of New oaft of America, from t Bay of Te- Cape Cornea tips' t from Monfieur D'Anvme. The Gulf of California I have laid down from a German publication in 1773, put into my hands by Sir Jofeph Banks, Bart. P. R. S.; and the Weftern fide of it is brought together from a Spanifh MS. chart with which A. Dalrymple, Efq; F. R. S. The coaft of Brazil from Sera to Cape Frio, is copied from a fmall chart of that part by Mr. Dalrymple. For the Southern part of Africa, from the Cape of Good Hope to Point Natal, I have taken the authority of the chart of Major J.Rennels, F. R. S. fhewing the extent of the bank of Lagullus. For the exiftence of the fmall iflands, fhoals, and banks to the Eaftward of Madagafcar, together with the Archipelago of the Maldive and Laccidive Iflands •, for the coafts of Mallacca, part of Cambodia, and the Ifland Sumatra, I have ufed the lateft authority of Monfieur D'Apres de Mannevillette's publications in: thd Neptune Oriental The coafts of Guzerat, Malabar, Coromandel, and the oppofite more, contaijaing the Great Bay of Bengal, and the Ifland of Ceylon, and exhibiting the Heads of the Ganges, and Baram- pooter or Sanpoo Rivers, are inferted from the work of the ingenious Author of the map of Hindooftan, publifhed in 1782. The INTRODUCTION. to be fulfilled before they could begin \ the labour and fkill to be exerted in finifhing many of them, rendered this a tedious operation ; paper fit for printing them upon was to be procured from abroad; and after all thefe various and unavoidable difficulties were furmounted, much time was neceflarily required for executing a numerous im- preflion of the long lift of plates, with So much care as might do juftice both to Mr. Webber, and to his Several engravers. When all thefe The China fea is laid down from the chart publifhed by Mr, Dalrymple ; but the longitudes of Pula Sapata, Pulo Condore, Pulo Timoan, Straits of Banca and Sunda, and the parts we faw are as fettled by us, together with the Eaft coaft of Niphon, the principal of the Japanefe Iflands. The Jefo and Kurile iflands, the Eaft coaft of Afia and Kamtfchatka, as well as the fea of Okotfk, and the iflands lying between Kamtfchatka and America that were not feen ia the voyage, are taken from a Ruffian MS. chart, got by us at the Ifland of Oonalafhka. The Northern countries from Cape Kanin, near the White Sea, as far Eaft as the River Lena, I have given from the Great Ruffian Map, publifhed at Peterfburgh in 1776, including the Euxine, Cafpian, and Aral Seas, as alfo the principal lakes to the Eaftward ; the intent of which is to fhew the fource of the large rivers that empty themfelves into the different oceans and feas. , Every other part of the chart not mentioned in this account, is as originally placed by Captain Cook. The whole has been corrected from the lateft aftronomical obfervations, felected from the Tables compiled by Mr. William Wales, F. R. S. and mathematical matter of Chrift's Hof- pital, for the Nautical Almanacs : From thofe in the Mariner's Guide by the Rev. Dr. Mafkelyne, F. R. S. and Aftronomer Royal, publifhed in 1763 ; From the Connoiffance des Terns for 1780 and 1781; From Profeffor Mayer's Geographical Table; From the Voyages of Meffrs. d'Eveux de Fleurieu, Verdun, de Borda, and Chabet, &c.; From the Table lately publifhed by Mr. Dalrymple for' the ufe of the Eaft India fhips; From the Philofophical Tranfa&ions of the Royal Society ; and from the Obfervations of our late Navigators. HEN/. ROBERTS. Shoreham, Sussex, May 18, 1784. circum* INTRODUCTION. circumftances are taken into confideration, we truft that we fhall hear no more of the delay; and only be grateful to that munificent Patron of Science, who not only directed the hiftory of the voyage to be publifhed ; but to be publifhed with fuch a fplendid train of ornaments, at the public expence, as will ftill add to the merit of having ordered the voyage itfelf to be undertaken. And here it feems to be incumbent upon us to add, as another inftance of munificent attention, that care has been taken to mark, in the moft Significant manner, the juft SenSe entertained of .th^humane and liberal relief afforded to our fhips in Kamtfchatka. Colonel Behm, the commandant of that province, has not been rewarded merely by the pleafure which a benevolent mind feels in reflecting uponjihe bleffings it confers; but has been thanked in a manner equally con- fiftent with the dignity of his own fovereign and of ours, to whofe Subjects he extended protection. A magnificent piece of plate was prefented to him, with an infcription, worthy of a place in the fame book where the hiftory of his humanity to our e^ntrymen is recorded, and which, while it does honour to our national gratitude, deferves alfo to be preferved as a monument of our national tafte for elegant compofition. It is as follows: Viro egregio magno de Behm ; qui, Impera- i&i&wlAuguftiffimce Catherine aufpiciis, fummdque animi benignitate,fceva, quibus praerat, Kamtfchatka littora, navibus nautifque Britannicis, hofpita pnebuit; eofque, in terminis, fi qui effent Imperio Rufftco,. fruftrd explorandis, mala mult a perpeffos, iteratd vice excepit, refecit, recreavit, & commeatu omni cumulate autios dimiftt; Rm navalis Bri- TaNNIC^E introductrem i tannics Septemviri in aliquam benevohntia tarn in/ignis memarmm^atmt£^m6ifigrati^imaqveami' mo, fua, patrueque nammte, ©. D. D* MDCCLXXXI. This public teftrrnony of gratitude, reminds the Editor, that there are fimilar calls upon himfelf. He owes much to Captain King for his advice and dire#ion, in a vaaaety of inftances, where C^faaifflLCook^stijiiBteBal required explanation ; for filling up feveral blanks ;wkh the proper longitude andlatiowte;. and for Suppiytngtfeikaeneiesin the tables of aftronomical oblervati&si; • Lieutenant Roberts was al'fb frequently^ eonfufaS ed^aiHi was always found to be a ready andeftso* tual aSiiftant, whfers anfy nautical difficulties were to be cleared up. But pattkute'©bHgations are due to Mr. Walesj who, befides the?'\saluable communications wfofek have been adopted in this Introduction, Seconded moft liberally the Editor's views of ferving Mrs. Cook, by eheerfiidly taking upon himfelf the whole trouble of digesting, from the log books, the tables of the route of thetfliips, which add (o greatly to the'HMSHifiqtraffltffiCejf tShrspablication. Mr. Wegg, befides fharing in the thanks So juft- ly due to the committee of the Hudfon's Bay Company, for their unreferved communications, wa» particularly obliging to the Editor, by giving him repeated opportunities of conversing with Governor Hearne, and Captain Chriftopher. The honourable Mr. Daines Barrington had the goodnefs to interest himfelf, with, his ufual zeal for every work of public utility, in procuring fome neceffary information, and Suggesting Some valuable hints which were adopted. It would be great injuftice not to exprefs our acknowledgments to Mr, Pennant, who, befides enriching INTRODUCTION;.! c®riobiag the thb&veluoifl twltfo references; rt<» bH Artlic Zoology, the publication of wibiclyiWcll be an important aiceefiion to Natural Hiftory, alfo communkaited fome.v«ty!aotbeiaitic.aodifaitisfactory manufcript accounts of the Ruffian dafebveries. The vocabularissaf the Friendly and SabdwrieJ? Iflands, and of the natives of Nootkayfaaflii been furnifhed to Captain Cook, by his mafi^fiaftfoh afi- fociate in the voyage, Mr. Anderfon ; and afbjitttkri in which the language of the Efquiraaatax^isocaaitt^ pared with that of the Americans on the oppofite fide of the continent, had been prepared by the Captain himfelf. But the comparative Table of Numerals, which is marked No. 2. in the Appendix, was very obligingly drawn up, at the requeft of the Editor, by Mr. Bryant, who, iwhis ftudy, has followed Captain Cook, and, indeed, every traveller and historian, of every age, into every part of the globe; The Public will confider this Table as a very Striking illustration of the wonderful migrations of a nation, about whom fo much additional information has been gained by our voyages, and be ready to acknowledge it as a very ufeful communication. One more communication remains to be not only acknowledged, but to be inferted at the clofe of this Introduction. The testimonies of learned contemporaries, in commendation of a deceafed Author, are frequently difplayed in the front of his book. It is with the greateft propriety, therefore, that we prefix to this pofthumous work of Captain Cook the teftimony of one of his own profeffion, not more diftinguifhed by the elevation of rank, than by the dignity of private virtues. As he wifhes to remain concealed, perhaps this allufion, for which we, intreat his indulgence, may have givea too exact direction to the eyes of the Pub- 1 lie INTRODUCTION, lie where to look for fuch a character. Let us, however, reft Satisfied with the intrinfic merit of a compofition, conveyed under the injunction of Secrecy ; and conclude our long preliminary difler- tation with exprefling a wiSh, or rather a well- grounded hope, that this volume may not be the only place where posterity can meet with a monumental inscription, commemorative of a man, in recounting and applauding whofe fervices, the whole of enlightened Europe will equally concur with Great Britain. to I xciii ] TO THE MEMORY OF Captain JAMES COOK, The ableft and moft renowned Navljttor this or any country hath produced. J-fE raifed himfelf, folely by his meritl,j$om a very obfcure birth, to the rank oftWoft Captain in the royal navy, and was, unfortunately, killed by the Savages of the ifland O why hee, on the \^th of February 1779 | which ifland he had, not long before, difcovered, when profecuting his third voyage round the globe. He poffeffed, in an eminent degree, all the qualifications requifite for his profejjion and great undertakings I together with the amiable and worthy qualities of the beft men. Cool and deliberate in judging : fagacious in determining : atlive in executing: fteady and perfevering in enterprifing from vigilance and unremitting caution : unfubdued by labour, difficulties, and difap- pointments : fertile in expedients : never wanting pre- fence of mind : always poffefftng himfelf, and the full ufe of a found under/landing. Mild, jufl, but exatl in difciffliife : he was a father to his people, who were attached to him from af- fetlion, and obedient from confidence. His knowledge, his experience, his fagacity, rendered him fo intirely mafter of his fubjetl, that the great- eft obftacles were furmounted, and the moft dangerous navigations became eafy, and almoft fafe, under his direclion. He INSCRIPTION TO THE He explored the Southern hemifphere to a much higher latitude than had ever been reached, and with fewer aCSidelntS than fr£q%e}illy befal thofe who navigate the coafts of this ifland. By bis benevolent and-unabating attention to the •mifah-of bis/hip's "company,- he -difcovered and introduced afyftemfor the prefervation of the health of fea-* men-in long voyages, which has proved wonderfully efficacious: for in his fecond voyage round the world, which continued upwards of three years, he loft only one man by diftemper, of one hundred and eighteen. of-^kick*_'Ms^empany cmfifhd. • The dg&tfcQf ibis eminent and valuable man t&as a lofs to mankindsfa-gmewtl; and particularly to he deplored by every nation that rffpetls ufeful accom- pf$/bMT£^s%vt$afshm6urs fcience, and loves the benevolent am)amiable affe£I$ft$.i)f the heart. It is ftill more to be deplored by tbi^^untry, which may juftly hoaft of having ps&duced a mcmyfyUberto unequalled forfm^i^Mlents •, and that for row is farther aggravated by the refletlion, that his country was de- prived of this ornament by the enmity of a people, from whom,- indeed, it- might -have been dreaded, but from-^hom it was not deferved. For, aftuated • always by the moft attentive care and tender compaf- fion for the favages in genera^ $is excellent man was ever affiduoufly endeali^ing^l^i kind treatment, to diffipate their fears, and C&ikti? their friend/hip ; overlooking their thefts and tr-eacberies, and fre- <}utn$ly interpofing, at the'hazard of his life, to pro- tetl them from the fuddefiifqf&ntment of his own injured people. The objetl of his laft ini0on was to difcover and ■a/certain the boundaries of Afia and America, and to penetrate into the Northern Qcean by the North Eaft Cape of Afia. Traveller ! MEMORY OF CAPTAIN COOK. Traveller ! contemplate, admire, revere, and emulate this great mafter in his prof effiom, whofe /kill and labours have enlarged natural philofophy -, have extended nautical fcience; and have difclofed the long concealed and admirable arrangements of the Almighty in the formation of this globe, and, at the fame time, the arrogance of mortals, in prefuming to account, by their /peculations, for the laws by which he was pleafed to create it. It is now difcovered, beyond all doubt, thM the fame Great Being who created the univerfe by his fiat, by the fame ordained our earth to keep a juft poife, without a correfponding Southern continent—and it does fo ! " He flretches *' out the North over the empty place, and hangetb " the earth upon nothing" Job, xxvi. 7. If the arduous but exatl refearches of this extraordinary man have not difcovered a new world, they have difcovered feas unnavigated and unknown before. They have made us acquainted with iflands, people and. produtlions, of which we bad no conception. And if he has not been fo fortunate as Ameri- cus to give his name to a continent, his pre ten/ions to fuch a diftintlion remain unrivalled; and he will be revered, while there remains a page of his own modeft account of his voyages, and as long as mariners and geographers /hall be inftrutled, by bis new map of the Southern hemifphere, to trace the various courfes and difcoveries he has made. If public fervices merit public acknowledgments; if the man who adorned and raifed the fame of his country is deferving of honours, then Captain Cook deferves to have a monument raifed to his memory, by a generous and grateful nation. Virtutis uberrimum alimentum eft honos. Val. Maxim us, Lib. 2. Cap. 6. [ xcvii ] LIST of the PLATES, With Directions for placing them. VOL. I. Page Plate N* i General Chart exhibiting Captain Cook's difcoveries - I. 51 Chart of Kerguelen's Land, with a fketch of Prince Edward's Iflands - - II. 61 Sketches of ChriftmasHarbour,and Port Pallifer in Kerguelen's Land - - - HI. 8 0. Views on the Coaft of Kerguelen's Land - - IV. - 01 Chart and Views of Van Diemen's Land - - V. 117 Plan of Adventure Bay, in Van Diemen's-Land - VI.* 225 Chart of the Friendly Iflands VII. tf 277 Sketch of Tongataboo Harbour VIII. , VOL. II. 5 Sketches of Mangeea,Vol. i. p. 170; —of Wateeoo, Vol. i. p. 180 5— of Wenooa ette, Vol. i. p. 205 -, —and of Toobouai - IX. ^ 79 Sketch of two Harbours on the North fide of Eimeo - Xy 179 Chriftmas Ifland - XL- 258 Views on the Weft coaft of North America - - XII.' LIST OF THE PLATES. Page Plate N° 269 Chart of the North Weft coaft of North America, and North Eaft coaft of Afia - XIII. " 279 Sketch of Nootka Sound - XIV. 366 Chart of Cook's River, and Prince William's Sound - XV. - 410 Views on the Weil coaft of North America, to the Weftward of Cook's River - XVI. 424 Sketch of Samganoodha Harbour at the Ifland Oonalafhka XVH> Chart of Norton Sound and Bee- 467 47' 5SO nngsbtrait Views on the coaft of Afia Views of the Sandwich Iflands XVIII. XIX. v xx: i V O L. III. 1 Chart of the Sandwich Iflands, and view of Karakakooa Bay XXI. 184 Sketch of AwatSka Bay in Kamtfchatka - - XXII. 313 Views on the coaft of KamtSchatka XXIII. 397 Chart of the Coaft of Japan XXIV. 409 Sketch of Sulphur Ifland - XXV." 420 Sketch of the Typa and Macao XXVI.; [N. B. The longitude in thefe volumes is reckoned From the meridian of Greenwich, and after pafeg it to the Eaft, in the South Atlantic, is carried on Easterly beyond the 1 80th degree, to the utmoft extent of the voyage I and back, to the feme meridian.] A VOYAGE VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. BOOK | Tranfadions from the Beginning of the Voyage till our Departure from New Zealand. CHAP. I. Various Preparations for the Voyage.—Omai's Be~ haviour on embarking.—Obfervations for determining the Longitude of Sheernefs, and the North Foreland.—Paffage of the Refolution from Dept- ford to Plymouth.—Employments there.—Complements 0/ the Crews of both Ships, and Names of the Officers.—Obfervations to fix the Longitude of Plymouth.—Departure of the Refolution. HAVING, on the ninth Day of February 177$ "776. received a commiffion to command his Ma-^^^i jefty's floop the Refolution, I went on board the Satur. 10. next day, hoifted the pendant, and began to enter men. At the Same time, the Difcovery, of three Vol. I. B hundred Satur. 9. a AVOYAGETO 1776. hundred tons burthen, was purchafed into the fervice, February. ancj ^g command of her given to Captain Clerke, who had been my fecond Lieutenant on board the Refolution, in my fecond voyage round the world, from which we had lately returned. Thefe two fhips were, at this time, in the dock at Deptford, under the hands of the fhipwrights • being ordered to be equipped to make farther difcoveries in the Pacific Ocean, under my direction. On the 9th of March, the Refolution was hauled out of dock into the River; where we completed her rigging, and took on board the Stores and provisions requisite for a voyage of fuch duration. Both Ships, indeed, were Supplied with as much of every neceffary article as we could conveniently Slow, and with the beft of every kind that could be procured. And, befides this, every thing that had been found, by the experience acquired during our former extenfive voyages, to be of any utility in preferving the health of feamen, was Supplied in abundance. May. It was our intention to have failed to Long Reach Monday6.on.the 6th of May, when a pilot came on board to carry us thither; but it was the 29th before the Thurf. 30. wind would permit us to move; and the 30th before we arrived at that ftation, where our artillery, powder, Shot, and other ordnance Stores were received. June. While we lay in Long Reach, thus employed, the Earl of Sandwich, Sir Hugh PalliSer, and others of the Board of Admiralty, as the leaft mark of the very great attention they had all along fhewn Satur. 8. to this equipment, paid us a vifit on the 8th of June, to examine whether every thing had been completed conformably to their intentions and orders, and to the fatisfaction of all who were to embark in the voyage. They, and feveral other Noble- THE P A C I F Ij&VO C E A N. 3 Noblemen and Gentlemen their friends, honour- 177S. ed me with their company at dinner on that day ; t jfiffc and, on their coming on board, and alfo on their v^—' going afhore, we faluted them with feventeen guns, and three cheers. With the benevolent view of conveying fome permanent benefit to the inhabitants of Otaheite, and of the other iflands in the Pacific Ocean, whom we might happen to vifit, his Majefty having commanded fome ufeful animals to be carried out, we took on board, on the 10th, a bull, twoMond. 10. cows with their calves, and fome Sheep, with hay and corn for their fubfiftence; intending to add to thefe, other ufeful animals, when I fhould arrive at the Cape of Good Hope. I was alfo, from the fame laudable motives, furnifhed with a fufficient quantity of fuch of our European garden feeds, as could not fail to be a valuable prefent to our newly-difcovered iflands, by adding frefh fupplies of food to their own vegetable productions. Many other articles, calculated to improve the condition of our friends in the other hemifphere in various ways, were at the fame time, delivered to us by order of the Board of Admiralty. And both Ships were provided with a proper affortment of $r^ji tools and trinkets, as the means of enabling us to traffic, and to cultivate a friendly intercourse with the inhabitants of fuch new countries as we might be fortunate enough to meet with. The fame humane attention was extended to our own wants. Some additional clothing, adapted to a cold climate, was ordered for our crews: and nothing was denied to us that could be fuppofed in the leaft conducive to health, or even to convenience. B 2 Nor A VOYAGE TO Nor did the extraordinary care of thofe at the head of the naval department flop here. They were equally felicitous to afford us every affiftance towards rendering our voyage of public utility, i. Accordingly, we received on board, next day, feveral aftronomical and nautical inftruments, which the Board of Longitude intrufted to me, and to Mr. King, my Second Lieutenant •, we having engaged to that Board to make all the neceflary obfervations, during the voyage, for the improvement of aftronomy and navigation; and, by our joint labours, to Supply the place of a profeffed obfervator. Such a perfon had been originally intended to be fent out in my Ship. The Board, likewiSe, put into our poSfeflion the fame watch, or time-keeper, which I had carried out in my laft voyage, and had performed its part fo well. It was a copy of Mr. Harrifon's, constructed by Mr. Kendall. This day, at noon, it was found to be too flow for mean time at Greenwich, by 3', 31", 890; and by its rate of going, it loft, on mean time, 1", 209 per day. Another time keeper, and the fame number and fort of inftruments for making obfervations, were put on board the Difcovery, under the care of Mr. William Bailey; who, having already given fatif- factory proofs of his Skill and diligence as an obfer- vator, while employed in Captain Furneaux's Ship, during the late voyage, was engaged a Second time, in that capacity, to embark with Captain Clerke. Mr. Anderfon, my Surgeon, who, to Skill in his immediate profeffion, added great proficiency in natural hiftory, was as willing as he was well qualified, to defcribe every thing in that branch of fcience which fhould occur worthy of notice. As he had already vifited the South Sea iflands in the fame Ihip, and been of Angular Service, by enabling me to enrich THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 5 enrich my relation of that voyage with various ufe- 1^6. ful remarks on men and things *, I reafonably ex- ^J™^, peeled to derive considerable affiftanee from him, in recording our new proceedings. I had feveral young men amongft my fea-officers who, under my direction, could be ufefully employed in constructing charts, in taking views of the coafts and headlands near which we Should paSs, and in drawing plans of the bays and harbours in which we mould anchor. A conftant attention to this I knew to be highly requifite, if we would render our difcoveries profitable to future navigators,. And, that we might go out with every help that could ferve to make the refult of our voyage entertaining to the generality of readers, as well as in- ftruetive to the failor and fcholar, Mr. Webber was pitched upon, and engaged to embark with me, for the exprefs purpofe of fupplying the unavoidable imperfections of written accounts, by enabling us to preferve, and to bring home, fuch drawings of the moft memorable fcenes of our transactions, as could only be executed by a profeffed and Skilful artift. Every preparation being now completed, I re* ceived an order to proceed to Plymouth, and to take the DiScovery under my command. 1 accordingly gave Captain Clerke two orders; one to.:p&t' himSelf under my command, and the other to carry his Ship round to Plymouth. On the 15th, the Refolution Sailed from Long Satur, 15, Reach, with the Difcovery in company, and the fame evening they anchored at the Nore. Next * The very copious Vocabulary of the language of Otaheite, and the comparative fpecimen of the languages of the feveral other iflands vifited during the former voyage, and publifhed iri Captain Cook's account of it, were furnilhed by Mr, Anderfon. day 6 AVOYAGETO 1776. day the Difcovery proceeded, in obedience to my^ June, order j but the Refolution was ordered to remain '"'"""at the Nore till I fhould join her, being at this time in London. As we were to touch at Otaheite and the Society Iflands, in our way to the intended fcene of our frefh operations, it had been determined not to omit this opportunity (the only one ever likely to happen) of carrying Omai back to his native country. Accordingly, every thing being ready for our departure, he and I fet out together from London Mond. 14. on the 24th, at fix o'clock in the morning. We reached Chatham between ten and eleven o'clock; and, after dining with Commiffioner Proby, he very obligingly ordered his yacht to carry us to Sheernefs, where my boat was waiting to take us on board. Omai left London with a mixture of regret and Satisfaction. When, we talked about England, and about thofe who, during his ftay, had honoured him with their protection or friendfhip, I could obferve that his Spirits were fenfibly affected, and that it was with difficulty he could refrain from tears. But, the inftant the converfation turned to his own iflands, his eyes began to Sparkle with joy. He was deeply impreffed with a fenfe of the good treatment he had met with in England, and entertained the higheft ideas of the country and of the people. But the pleafing profpect he now had before him of returning home, loaded with what, - he well knew, would be efteemed invaluable treasures there, and the flattering hope which the poffeffion of thefe gave him, of attaining to a distinguished fuperiority amongft his countrymen, were confiderations which operated, by degrees, to fupprefs every uneafy SenSation ; and he Seemed to be quite happy when he got on board the Ship. He THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 7 He was furnifhed, by his Majefty, with an ample 1775. provifion of every article which, during our inter- June- eourfe with his country, we had obferved to be in * any eftimation there, either as ufeful or as ornamental. He had, befides, received many prefents of the fame nature from Lord Sandwich, Mr.* Banks, and feveral other Gentlemen and Ladies of his acquaintance. In fhort, every method had been employed, both during his abode in England, and at his departure, to make him the inftrument of conveying to the inhabitants of the iflands of the Pacific Ocean, the moft exalted opinion of the greatnefs and generofity of the Britifh nation. While the Refolution lay at the Nore, Mr. King made Several obfervations for finding the longitude by the watch. The mean of them all, gave o° 44' o", for the longitude of the Ship. This, reduced to Sheernefs, by the bearing and estimated diftance, will make that place to be o° 37' o" Eaft of Greenwich; which is more by feven miles than Mr. Lyons made it, by the watch which Lord Mulgrave had with him, on his voyage towards the North Pole. Whoever knows any thing of the diftance between Sheernefs and Greenwich, will be a judge which of thefe two obfervations is near- eft the truth. The variation of the needle here, by a mean of different fets, taken with different compafles, was 200 37' Weft. On the 25th, about noon, we weighed anchor, T«efd. 25. and made fail for the Downs, through the Queen's Channel, with a gentle breeze at North Weft by Weft. At nine in the evening we anchored, with the North Foreland bearing South by Eaft, and Margate Point South Weft by South. n Sir Jofeph, Next 8 A VOYAGE TO 177$. Next morning, at two o'clock, we weighed and ;j^™^jftood round the Foreland; and when it bore North, (Wedn.«6.a^ow*ng f°r me variation of the compafs, the watch gave i° 24' Eaft longitude, which, reduced to the Foreland, will be i° 21' Eaft. Lunar observations made the preceding evening, fixed it at i° 20' Eaft. At eight o'clock the Same morning, we anchored in the Downs. Two boats had been built for us at Deal, and I immediately fent on more for them. I was told that many people had aflembled there to See Omai -, but, to their great disappointment, he did not land. Having received the boats on board, and a light breeze at South South Eaft Springing up, we got Thurf. **r. under Sail the next day at two o'clock in the afternoon. But the breeze foon died away, and we were obliged to anchor again till ten o'clock at night. We then weighed, with the wind at Eaft, and proceeded down the channel. Sundayjo. On the 30th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we anchored in Plymouth Sound, where the Difcovery had arrived only three days before. I falut- ed Admiral Amherft, whoSe flag was flying on board the Ocean, with thirteen guns, and he returned the compliment, with eleven. It was the firft object of our care, on arriving at Plymouth, to replace the water and provisions that July, we had expended, and to receive on board a fupply of Port Wine. This was the employment which occupied us on the 1 ft and 2d of July. During our ftay here, the crews were feryed with frefh beef every day. And I fhould not do juftice to Mr. Ommanney, the Agent Victualler, if I did not take this opportunity to mention, that he Shewed a very obliging readinefs to furnifh me with the beft of every thing that lay within his department. I had been under the like obligations Monday Tuefday July. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. to him on my letting out upon my laft voyage. Commiffioner Ourry, with equal zeal forthefer-r, vice, gave us every affiftance that we wanted from ^^ the naval yard. It .could not but occur to us as a Singular and affecting circumftance, that at the very inftant of our departure upon a voyage, the object of which was to benefit Europe by making frefh difcoveries rn North America, there fhould be the unhappy ne- ceffity of employing others of his Majefty's fhips, and of conveying numerous bodies of land forces, to Secure the obedience of thofe parts of that continent which had been difcovered and fettled by our countrymen in the laft century. On the 6th, Satur. 6, his Majefty's fhips Diamond, Ambufcade, and Unicorn, with a fleet of tranfports, confuting of fixty-two fail, bound to America, with the laft di- vifion of the Hefiian troops, and Some horSe, were forced into the Sound by a ftrong North Weft Wind. On the 8tb, I received, by expreSs, my inftruc- Mondays, tions* Sor the voyage, and an order to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope with the Refolution. I was alfo directed to leave an order for Captain Gierke to follow us, as foon as he Should join his Ship ; he being, at this time, detained in London. Our firft difcoverers of the New World, and navigators of the Indian and Pacific Oceans, were juftly thought to have exerted fuch uncommon abilities, and to have accomplifhed fuch perilous enterprifes, that their names have been handed down to posterity as So many Argonauts. Nay, even the hulks of the fhips that carried them, though not converted into conftellations in the Heavens, ufed to be honoured and vifited as facred reliques upon # See the fciftru&ions, in the Introduction. earth. io AVOYAGETO -1776. earth. We, in the prefent age of improved navi- ^J^J^j gation, who have been instructed by their labours, and have followed them as our guides, have no fuch claim to fame. Some merit, however, being ftill, in the public opinion, confidered as due to thofe who fail to unexplored quarters of the globe, in conformity to this favourable judgment, I prefixed to the account of my laft voyage the names of the officers of both my fhips, and a table of the number of their refpeclive crews. The like information will be expected from me at prefent. The Refolution was fitted out with the fame complement of officers and men fhe had before ; and the Difcovery's eftablifhment varied from that of the Adventure, in the Single inftance of her having no marine officer on board. This arrangement was to be finally completed at Plymouth; Tuefday9. and, on the 9th, we received the party of marines allotted for our voyage. Colonel Bell, who commanded the divifion at this port, gave me fuch men for the detachment as I had reafon to be fatisfied with. And the fupernumerary feamen, occafioned by this reinforcement, being turned over into the Ocean man of war, our feveral complements remained fixed, as reprefented in the following table : THE PACIFIC OCEAN. RESOLUTION. DISCOVERY.! Officers and Men. No Officers Names. 1 Officers Names. Captain, - - James Cook. Charles Clerke. Lieutenants, I John Gore. J 2 James Burney. James King. JohnRickman. *f, John Williamfon. Mafter, i William Bligh. - i Thomas Edgar. Boa tfwain, i William Ewin. - i Eneas Atkins. Carpenter, i James Clevely. - i Peter Reynolds. Gunner, i Robert Anderfon. i WilliamPeckover. Surgeon, i William Anderfon. I John Law. Matter's Mates, - 3 - 3. Midfhipraen, - - 6 .- 4 Surgeon's Mates, - 2 - Captain's Clerk, - , - i Mafter at Arms, - I i Corporal, I Armourer, - - I - i Ditto Mate, - - I _ i Sail Maker, - - I - i Ditto Mate, - - I - i Boatfwain's Mates, 3 _ 2 Carpenter's Ditto, 3 2 Gunner's Ditto, - 2 - I Carpenter's Crew, 4 - 4 Cook, , - Ditto Mate, - - i Quarter Mailers, 6T 4 Able Seamen, 4-5 ~ Marines. Lieutenant, - . I MolefworthPhjlips. Serjeant, l _ Corporals, - - 2 _ Drummer, - . a* _ Private, - - '5 " 8 1 Total, z JRo x% AVOYAGETO 1776. On the 10th, the Commiffioner and Pay Clerks t July' . came on board, and paid the officers and crew up ,Wedn. jo.to trJe 3Pth of laft month. The petty officers and feamen had, befides, two months wages in advance. Such indulgence to the latter, is no more than what is cuftomary in the navy. But the payment of what was due to the fuperior officers was humanely ordered by the Admiralty, in confideration of our peculiar fituatiori, that we might be better able to defray the very great expence of fumifhing ourfelves with a Stock of neceSSaries for a voyage which, probably, would be of unufual duration, and to regions where no Supply could be expected. Nothing now obstructing my departure but a contrary wind, which blew Strong at South Thurf. 11. Weft, in the morning of the 1 ith, I delivered into the hands of Mr. Burney, firft Lieutenant of the Difcovery, Captain Clerke's" failing orders ; a copy of which I alfo left with the Officer * commanding, his Majefty's fhips at Plymouth, to be delivered to the Captain immediately on his arri-* val. In the afternoon, the wind moderating, we weighed with the ebb, and got farther out, beyond all the Shipping in the Sound ; where, after making an unfuccefsfiil attempt to get to fea, we were de- Friday ia. tained moft of the following day, which was em^ ployed in receiving on board a fupply of water; and, by the fame veffel that brought it, all the empty cafks were returned. As I did not imagine my ftay at Plymouth would have been fo long as it proved, we did not get our inftruments on fhore to make the neceffary obfervations for afcertaining the longitude by the watch. For the fame reafon, Mr. Baily did not fet about * Captain Le Crafs, Admiral Amherft having ftruck his flag fome days before. this, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. this, till he found that the Difcovery would, probably, be detained Some days after us. He then placecl his quadrant upon Drake's Ifland; and had time, before the Refolution failed, to make obfervations fufficient for the purpofe we had in view. Our watch made the ifland to lie 40 14', and his, 4013^, Weft of Greenwich. Its latitude, as found by Meffrs. Wales and Baily, on the laft voyage, is 50° 21' 30" North. We weighed again at eight in the evening, and Stood out of the Sound, with a gentle breeze at North Weft by Weft. CHAP. A VOYAGE TO CHAP. II. Paffage of the Refolution to Teneriffe.—Reception there.—Defcription of Santa Cruz. Road.—-Re- frefhmfnts to be met with.—Obfervations for fix* ing the Longitude of Teneriffe.—Some account of the Ifland. — Botanical Obfervations. — Cities of Santa Cruz and Laguna.—Agriculture.—Air and Climate:—Commerce.—Inhabitants. WE had not been long out of Plymouth Sound, before the wind came more wefter- [a. ly, and blew frefh, fo that we were obliged to ply t4.down the Channel; and it was not till the 14th, at eight in the evening, that we were off the Lizard. i6. On the 16th, at noon, St. Agnes's Light-houfe on .the Ifles of Scilly, bore North Weft by Weft, diftant Seven or eight miles. Our latitude was, now, 490 53' 30" North, and our longitude, by the watch, 6° 11' Weft. Hence, I reckon that St. Agnes's Light-houSe is in 490 57' 30" North latitude, and in 6° 20' of Weft longitude. r7- On the 17th * and 18th we were off UShant, and found the longitude of the ifland to be, by the watch, 50 18' 37" Weft. The variation was 23°o' 50", in the fame direction. # It appears from Captain Cook's log-book, that he began his judicious operations for preferving the health of his crew, very early in the voyage. On the 17th, the fliip was fmoked between decks with gun-powder. The fpare fails alfo were then well aired. With THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 15 With a Strong gale at Southron the 19th, we 1776- ftood to the weftward, till eight o'clock in the^ji"1^* morning-, when, the wind Shifting to the WeftFriday,9- and North Weft, we tacked and ftretched to the Southward. At this time, we faw nine fail of large fhips, which we judged to be French men of war. They took no particular notice of us, nor we of them. At ten o'clock in the morning of the 22d, weMond. 22. faw Cape Ortegal; which at noon bore South Eaft, half South, about four leagues diftant. At this time we were in the latitude of 44° 6' North ; and our longitude, by the watch, was 8° 23' Weft. After two .days of calm weather we paffed Cape Finifterre, on the afternoon of the 24th, with aWedn.24. fine gale at North North Eaft. The longitude of this Cape, by the watch, is 90 29' Weft; and, by the mean of forty-one lunar obfervations, made before and after we paffed it, and reduced to it by the watch, the refult was 90 19' 12". On the 30th, at fix minutes and thirty-eight fe-Tuef. 30. conds paft ten o'clock at night, apparent time, I obferved, with a night telefeope, the moon totally eclipfed. By the epbemeris, the fame happened at Greenwich at nine minutes paft eleven o'clock; the difference being one hour, two minutes, and twenty-two feconds, or 150 35' 30" of "longitude. The watch, for the fame time, gave 150 26' 45" longitude Weft; and latitude 31" 10' North. No other obfervation could be made on this eclipfe, as the moon was hid behind the clouds the greater part of the time • and, in particular, when the beginning and end of total darknefs, and the end of the eclipfe, happened. Finding that we had not hay and corn fuffbient for the fubfiftence of the Stock of animals on board. i6 A VOYAGE TO Auguft, Thurf. i 1776. board, till our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, ^J^^ji determined to touch at Teneriffe, to get a fupply of thefe, and of the ufual refrefhments for ourfelves; thinking that ifland, for fuch purpofes, better adapted than Madeira. At four in the after- Wedn.31.noon of the 31ft, we faw Teneriffe, and fleered for the eaftern part. At nine, being near it, we hauled up, and flood off and on during the night. At day-light, on the morning of the ift of Auguft, we failed round the Eaft Point of the ifland; and, about eight o'clock, anchored on the South Eaft fide of it, in the Road of Santa Cruz, in twenty-three fathoms water; the bottom, fand and owze. Punta de Nago, the Eaft point of the Road, bore North 640 Eaft; St. Francis's church, remarkable for its high Steeple, Weft South Weft; the Pic, South 65° Weft; and the South Weft point of the Road, on which (lands a fort or caftle, South 390 Weft. In this fituation, we moored North Eaft and South Weft, with a cable each way, being near half a mile from the fhore. We found, riding in this Road, La Bouffole, a French frigate, commanded by the Chevalier de Borda; two brigantines of the fame nation; an Englifh. brigantine from London, bound to Senegal ; and fourteen fail of Spanifh veffels; No fooner had we anchored, than we were vifited by the Mafter of the Port, who fatisfied himfelf with afking the Ship's name. Upon his leaving us, I Sent an officer afhore, to prefent my refpects to the Governor; and to afk his leave to take in water, and to purchafe fuch articles as we were in want of. All this he granted with the greatest politenefs; and, foon after, fent an officer on board, to compliment me on my arrival. In the afternoon, 1 waited upon him in perfon, accompanied by fome of my officers; and, before I returned THE PACIFIC OCEAN: ,7 to my Ship, beSpoke Some corn and ftraw for the 1776. live Stock; ordered a quantity of wine from Mr. AuS"^- M'Carrick, the contractor, and made an agree- ment with the mafter of a Spanifh boat to Supply us with water, as I found that we could not do it ourfelves. The road of Santa Cruz is fituated before the town of the fame name, on the South Eaft fide of the ifland. It is, as I am told, the principal road of Teneriffe, for fhelter, capacity, and the good- nefs of its bottom. It lies entirely open to the South Eaft and South winds. But thefe winds are never of long continuance; and, they fay, there is not an inftance * of a Ship deriving from her anchors on fhore. This may, in part, be owing to the great care they take in mooring them; for I obferved, that all the fhips we met with there, had four anchors out; two to the North Eaft, and two to the South Weft; and their cables buoyed up with cafks. Ours Suffered a little by not obferving this laft precaution. At the South Weft part of the road, a^ne pier runs out into the fea from the town, for the convenience of loading and landing of goods. To this pier, the water that fupplj§%cthe Shipping is conveyed. This, as alSo what the inhabitants of Santa Cruz uSe, is derived from a rivulet that runs from the hills, the greateft part of which comes into the town in wooden fpouts or troughs, that are fupported by Slender ports, and the remainder doth not*reach the Sea; though it is evident, Srom the fize of the channel, that Sometimes large torrents I Tho igh i fuch Captain Cook had th: form years before he v the road •were driven < Iflands, p. 235. We ufed, have prevented any r will fufficiently juftify Capt; 'Vol.1. nftance was known to thofe from whom information, we learn from Glas, that 5 at Teneriffe, almofi all the /hipping in fhore. See Glas's Hift. of the Canary nay well fuppofe the precautions now e fuch accidents happening. This C Sa*C°VU rufh mjJM A VOYAGE TO rufh down. At iSs time thefe troughs were re^ pairing, fo that frefh water, which is very good here, was fcarce. Were we to judge from the appearance of the country ijf.^the neighbourhood of Santa Cruz, it might be concluded that Teneriffe is a barren Spot, infufficient to maintain even its own inhabitants. The ample Supplies, however, which we received, convinced us that they had enough to Spare for vifitors. Befides wine, which is the chief produce of the ifland, beef may be had at a moderate price. The oxen are fmall and boney, and weigh about ninety pounds a quarter. The meat is but lean, and wag, at prefent, fold for half a bit (three pence fterling) a pound. I, unadvifedly, bought the bullocks alive, and paid confiderably more. Hogs, fheep, goats and poultry, are like- wife to be bought at the Same moderate rate ; and fruits are in great plenty. At this time we had grapes, figs, pears, mulberries, plantains, and mufk melons. There is a variety of other fruits produced here, though notffn feafon at this time. Their pumpkins, onions, and potatoes, are exceedingly good of their kind, and keep better at fea than any I ever before met with. The Indian corn, which is alfo their produce, coft me about three (hillings and Sixpence a bufhel; and the fruits and roots were, in general, very cheap. They have not any plentiful fupply of fifh from the adjoining fea; but a very considerable fifhery is carried on by their veffels upon the coaft of Barbary; and the produce of it fells at a reasonable price. Upon the whole, I found Teneriffe to be a more eligible place than Madeira, for fhips bound on long voyages to touch at; though the wine of the latter, according to my tafte, is as much Superior to that of the former, as Strong beer THE PACIFIC OCEAN. beer is to fmall. To compenfate for this, the difference of prices is confiderable; for the beft Te- - neriffe wine was now fold for twelv<§« pounds a pipe; whereas a pipe of the beft Madeira would have cod confiderably more than double that Sum*. inftftie Chevalier de Borda, Commander of the French frigate now lying in Santa Cruz road, was employed, in conjunction with Mr. Varila, a Spanifh Gentleman, in making aftronomical obfervations for afcertaining the going of two time-keepers which they had on board their (hip. For this purpofe, they had a tent pitched on the pier head* where they made their obfervations, and compared their watches, every day at noon, with the clock on fhore, by fignals. Thefe Signals tl»-Chevalier very obligingly communicated to us; fo that we could compare our watch at the fame time. But our (lay was too Ihort, to profit much by his kind- neSs. The three days comparisons whicf&^$e made, affured us that the watch had not materially, if at all, altered her rate of going; and gave us the Same longitude, within a very few feconds, that was obtained by finding the time from obfervations of the fun's altitude from the horizon of the feas The watch, from a mean of thefe obfervations, on the ill, 2d, and 3d of Auguft, made the longi- * Formerly, there Was made at Teneriffe a great quantity of Canary fack, which the French call Fin de Mahiefie; and we, corruptly after them, name Malmfey (from Malvefia, a town in the Morea, famous for fuch lufcious wine). In the laft century, and ftill later, much of this was imported into England; but little wine is now made there, but of the fort defcrihed by Captain Cook. Not more than fifty pipes of the rich Canary was annually made in Glas's time • and he fays, they now gather the grapes when green, and make a dry hard wine of them, fit for hot climates, p. 262. C 2 tuda zo AVOYAGETO 1776. tude 160 31' Weft; and in like manner, the Ia- ■^jjlgfc titude was found to be 280 30' 1 \" North. *sftySfeJ Mr. Varila informed us, that the true longitude was 18° 35' 30", from Paris, which is only 160 16' 30" from Greenwich ; lefs than what our watch gave by 14' 30". But, far from looking upon this as an error in the watch, I rather think it a confirmation of its having gone well; and that the longitude by it may be nearer the truth than any other. It is farther confirmed by the lunar obfervations that we made in the road, which gave 16° 37' 10". Thofe made before we arrived, and reduced to the road by the watch, gave 160 %$' 30": and thofe made after we left it, and reduced tfeg^k in the fame manner, gave 160 28'. The mean of the three is 160 30' 40". To reduce thefe feveral longitudes, and the latitude, to the Pic of Teneriffe, one of the moft noted points of land with Geographers (to obtain .the true fituation of which, I have entered into this particular difcuffion), I had recourfe to the bearing, and a few hours of the Ship's run after leaving Santa Cruz road; and found it to be 12' 11" South of the road, and 29' 30" of longitude Weft of it. As the bafe, which helped to determine this, was partly estimated, it is liable to Some error; but I think I cannot be much miltaken. Dr. MaSkelyne, in his Britijh Mariner's Guide, places the Pic in the latitude of 280 12' 54". This, with the bearing from the road, will give the difference of longitude 43', which confiderably exceeds the diftance they reckon the Pic to be from Santa Cruz. I made the latitude of the Pic tobe28° 18' North. Upon that fuppofition, its longitude will be as follows: By THE PACIFIC OCEAN. -17° mgm j - 16° 30' 20" > - 16° 46' o"J Weft. r The Time-keeper - By \ Lunar observations • tMr. Varila - But if the latitude of it is 280 12' 54", as in the Britijh Mariner's Guide, its longitude will be 13' 30" more wefterly. The variation, when we were at anchor in the road, by the mean of all our compafles, was found to be 140 41' 20" Weft. The dip of the North end of the needle was 6i° 52' 30". Some of Mr. Anderfon's remarks on the natural appearances of Teneriffe, and its productions | and what he-ob&rved himfelf, or learnt by information, about the general State of the ifland, will be of ufe, particularly in marking what changes may have happened there fince Mr. Glas vifited it. They here follow in his own words: " While we were (landing in for the land,**t^ weather being perfectly clear, we had an opportunity of feeing the celebrated Pic of Teneriffe. But, I own, I was much difappointed in my expectation with refpect to its appearance. It is, ceWainly, far from equalling the noble figure of Pico, one of the weftern ifles which I have feen; though its perpendicular height may be greater. This circumstance, perhaps, ariSes from its being Surrounded by other very high hills ; whereas Pico (lands without a rival. Behind the city of Santa Cruz, the country rifes gradually, and is of a moderate height. Beyond this, to the South Weftward, it becomes higher, and continues to rife towards the Pic, which, from the road, appears but little higher than the fur- rounding hills. From thence it feems to decreafe, though not fuddenly, as far as the eye can reach. From a fuppofition that we fhould not Stay above one day, I was obliged to contract my excurfions into 3* A VOYAGE -TO' *.$§£• into the country; otherwife, I had propofed to J^IJK vi-fij the top of this famous mountain *. To the eaftward of Santa Cruz, the ifland appears perfectly barren. Ridges of hills run towards the fea; between which ridges are deep val* leys, terminating at mountains or hills that run acrofs, and are higher than the former. Thofe that rtm towards the Sea, are marked by imprefr fions on their fides, which make them appear as a fucceffion of conic hills, with their tops very rugged. The higher ones that run acrofs, are more uniform in their appearance. In the forenoon of the ift of Auguft, after we had anchored in the road, I went on fhore to one of thefe valleys, with an intention to reacb^tho- top of the remoter hills, which feemed covered with wood; but time would not allow me:t%gg£f farther than their foot. After walking about three miles, I.found no alteration in the appearance of the lower tjills ; which produce great quantities; of the euphorbia Canarienfis. It is furprifing that this large Succulent plant Should thrive on So burnt- up a Soil. When broken, which is eafily done, the quantity of juice is very great; and it might be fuppofed that, when dried, it would Shrivel to nothing; yet it is a pretty tough, though Soft and light wood. The people here believe its juice * See an account' of a journey to the top of tbe Pic of Teneriffe, in Sprat's Hiftory of the Royal Society, p. 200, &c. Glas alfo went to the top of it. Hiftory of the Canary Iflands, p. 252 to 259. In the Philofophical Tranfaftions, vol. xlvii. p. 353— 356, we have Obfervations made, ingoing up the Pic of "Teneriffe, by Dr. T. Heberden. The Doftor makes its height, about the level of the fea, to be 2566 fathoms, or 15,396 Englifh feet; and fays, that this was confirmed by two fubfequent obfervations by himfelf, and another made hy Mr. Croffe, the Conful. And yet, I find, that the Chevalier de Borda, who meafured the height of this mountaiia jn. Auguft 1776, makes it to be only 1931 French toifes, or 12,340 Englifh feet. See Doctor Forfter's Obfervations during a Voyage round the World, p. 32. tQ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. to be fo cauftic as to erode the (kin * ; but I con- i vinced them, though with much difficulty, to the M contrary, by trusting my finger into the plant full of it, without afterwards wiping it off. They break down the bufhes of euphorbia, and fuffering them to dry, carry them home for fuel. I met with nothing elfe growing there, but two or three fmall fhrubs, and a few fig-trees near the bottom of the valley. The bafis of the hills is a heavy, compact:, blueifh (lone, mixed with feme fhining particles; and, on the furface, large maffes of red friable earth, or (lone, are fcattered about. I alfo often found the fame Subftance difpofed in thick ftrata ; and the little earth, ftrewed here and there, was a blackifh mould. There were likewife fome pieces of flag ; one of which, from its weight and fmooth Surface, feemed almoft wholly metalline. The mouldering (late- of thefe hills is, doubt- lefs, owing to the perpetual action of the fun, which calcines their furface. This mouldered part being afterwards wafhed away by the heavy rains, perhaps is the caufe of their fides being fo uneven. For, as the different fubftances of which they are compofed, are more or lefs eafily affected by the fun's heat, they will he carried away in the like proportions. Hence perhaps, the tops of the hills, being of the hardeft rock, have Stood, while the other parts on a declivity have been destroyed. As I have uSualiy obferved, that the tops of moft mountains that are covered with trees have a more uniform appearance, I am inclined to believe that this is owing to their being (haded, * Glas, p. 231, fpeaking of this plant, fays, that he cannot imagine ivhy the natives of the Canaries do not extraH the juice\ find ufe it inftead of pitch, for the bottoms of their boats. We now learn from Mr; Anderfon their reafon for not ufing it. The 24 V O Y A G E TO 1776. The city of Santa Cruz, though not large, is J^Suft- tolerably well built. The churches are not mag- /~"nificent without; but within are decent, and indifferently ornamented. They are inferior to fome of the churches at Madeira ; but, I imagine, this rather arifes from the different difpofition of the people, than from their inability to Support them better. For the private houSes, and drefs of the Spanifh inhabitants of Santa Cruz, are far preferable to thofe of the Portuguese at Madeira; who, perhaps, are willing to drip themSelves, that they may adorn their churches. Almoft facing the (lone pier at the landing- place, is a handfome marble column lately put up, ornamented with fome human figures, that do no discredit to the artift ; with an infcription in Spanifh, to commemorate the occafion of the ; erection ; and the date. Fridays. In the afternoon of the 2d, four of us hired mules to ride to the city of Laguna *, fo called firbfh an adjoining lake, about four miles from Santa Cruz. We arrived there between five and fix in the evening; but found a fight of it very unable to compenfate for our trouble, as the road was very bad, and the mules but indifferent. The place is, indeed, pretty extenfive, but fcarcely de* Serves to be dignified with the name of City. The difpofition of its Streets is very irregular ; yet Some of them are of a tolerable breadth, and have fome good houSes. In general, however, Laguna is inferior in appearance to Santa Cruz, though the latter is but fmall, if compared with the former. We were informed, likewife, that Laguna is declining faft ; * Its extended name is St. Chriftobal de la Laguna; and it ■ufed to be reckoned the capital of the ifland, the gentry and lawyers living there; though the Governor General of the Canary Ifiands refides at Santa Cruz, as being the center of their trade, both with Europe and America. See Glas's Hifi. p. 248. there THE PACIFIC OCEAN. there being, at prefent, fom&tmneyards where houfes formerly Stood; whereas Santa Cruz is ^ encreafing daily. The road leading from Santa Cruz to Laguna runs up a Steep hill, which is very barren; &&| lower down, we faw fome fig-trees, and feveral corn fields. Thefe are but fmall, and not thrown into ridges, as is pradtif^in England. Nor does it appear that they can raiSe any corn life without great labour, as the ground is So encumbered with ftones, that they are obliged to collect and lay them in broad rows, or walls, at Small distances. The large hills that run to the South-weft, appeared to be pretty well furnifhed with trees. Nothing elfe worth noticing prefented itfelf during this excurfion, except a few aloe plants in flower, near the fide of the road, and the chearfulnefs of our guides who amufed us with Songs by the way. Moft of the laborious work in this ifland is performed by mules; horfes being to appearance fcarce, and chiefly referved for the ufe of the officers. They are of a fmall fize, but weli Shaped and Spirited. Oxen are alfo employed to drag their cafks along upon a large clumfy piece of wood ; and they are yoked by the head ; though it doth not feem that this has any peculSfe advantage over our method of fixing the harnefs on the fhoulders. In my walks and excurfcrrs^^w fome hawks, parrots, which are natives of the ifland, the fea Swallow or tern, fea gulls, partridges, wagtails, fwallows, martins, blackbirds, and Canary-birds in large flocks. There are alfo lizards of the com>- mon, and another fort; fome infects, as locufts; and three or four forts of dragon flies. I had an opportunity of converfing with a fen- fible and well-informed gentleman refiding here, and whoSe veracity 1 have not the lead reafon to doubt. A V O Y A Of% T O doubt. From him I learnt fome particulars, which,' during the fhort. flay of three days, did not fall within my own obfervation. He informed me, that a fhrub is common here, agreeing exactly with the defcription given by Tournefort and Linnaeus, of the tea Jhrub, as growing in China and Japan. It is reckoned a weed, and he roots out thoufands of them every year, from his vineyards. The Spaniards, however, of the ifland, fometimes ufe it as tea, and afcribe to it all the qualities of that imported from China. They alfo give it the name of tea; but what is remarkable, they fay it was found here when the iflands were firft difcovered. Another botanical curiofity, mentioned by him, is what they call the impregnated lemon *. It is a perfect and diftinct lemon, inclofed within another, differing from the outer one only in being a little more globular. The leaves of the tree that produces this fort, are much longer than thofe of the common one; and it was represented to me as being crooked, and not equal in beauty. From him I learnt alSo, that a certain Sort of grape growing here, is reckoned an excellent remedy in phthifical complaints. And the air and climate, in general, are remarkably healthful, and particularly adapted to give relief in fuch difeafes. This he endeavoured to account for, by it's being always in one's power to procure a different temperature of the air, by refiding at different heights in the ifland ; and he expreffed his furprife that the Englifh phyficians fhould never have thought of fending their confumptive patients to Teneriffe, inftead of Nice or Lifbon. How much the tem- * The Writer of the Relation of Teneriffe, in Sprat's Hiftory, p. 207, takes notice of this lemon as produced here; and. calls it Pregnada. Probably, emprennada, the Spanifh word for impregnated, is the name it goes by. perature I T THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 27 perature of the air varies hej% I myfelf could 1776. fenfibly perceive, only in riding from Santa Cruz J^^J up to Laguna; and you may afcend till the-Jtdld becomes intolerable. I was affured that no perfon can live comfortably within a mile of the perpendicular height of the Pic, after the month of Auguft *. Although feme fmoke conftantly iffues from Bear the top of the Pic, they have had no earthquake or eruption of a volcano fince 1704, when the port of Garrachica, where much of their trade was formerly carried on, was deftroyed +. Their trade, indeed, muft be confidered as very considerable ; for they reckon that forty thoufand pipes of wine are annually made ; the greateft part of which is either confumed in the ifland, or made into-brandy, and fent to the Spanifh Weft Indies £. About fix thoufand pipes were exported every year to North America, while the trade with it * This agrees with Dr. T. Heberden's account, who fays that the fugar-loaf part of the mountain, or la pericofa (as it is called), which is an eighth part of a league (or 1980 feet) to the top, is covered -with/how the greatefi part of the year. Seo Philofophical Tranfaclions, as quoted above. -f- This port was then filled up by life' rivers of burning lava that flowed into it from a volcano ; infomuch that houfes are now built where fhips formerly lay at anchor. See Gtas's Hifi. p. 244. J Glas, p. 342, fays, that they annually export no lefs than fifteen thoufand pipes of wine and brandy. In another place, p. 252, he tells us, that the number of the inhabitants of Teneriffe, when the laft account was taken, was no lefs than 95,000. We may reafonably fuppofe that there has been a confiderable increafe of population fince Glas vifited the ifland, which is above thirty years ago. The quantity of wine annually confumed, as the common beverage of at leaft one hundred thoufand perfons, muft amount to feveral thoufand pipes. There muft be a vaft expenditure of it, by converfion into brandy ; to produce one pipe of which, five or fix pipes of wine muft be diftilled. An attention to thefe particulars will enable every one to judge, that the account given to Mr. Anderfon, of an annual produce of 40,000 pipes of wine, has a , foundation in truth, was L — ■ -^^ *8 A VOYAGE TO 1?76. was uninterrupted; apsprefent, they think not Auguft. aDove half the quantity. The corn they raife is, ^^"^ in general insufficient to maintain the inhabitants; but the deficiency ufed to be fupplied by importation from the North Americans, who took their wines in return. They make a little filk; but unlefs we reckon the filtering-ftones, brought in great numbers from Grand Canary, the wine is the only confiderable article of the foreign commerce of Teneriffe. None of the race of inhabitants found here when the Spaniards difcovered the Canaries now remain a diftinct people *, having intermarried with the Spanifh fettlers; but their defcendants are known, from their being remarkably tall, large- boned, and Strong. The men are, in general, of a tawny colour, and the women have a pale complexion, entirely deftitute of that bloom which diftinguifhes our Northern beauties. The S^aKiflt cuftom of wearing black clothes continues amongft them; but the men Seem more indifferent about this, and, in fome meafure, dreu>£ like the French. In other refpects, we found the inhabitants of Teneriffe to be a decent and very civil people, retaining that grave eaft which diftinguifhes thofe of their country from other European nations. Although we do not think that there is a great fimilarity between our manners and thofe of the Spaniards, it is worth obferving, that Omai did not think there was much difference. He only faid, that they feemed not fo friendly as the Eng- lifh; and that, in their perfons, they approached thofe of his countrymen." * It was otherwife in Glas's time, when a few families of the Guanches (as they are called) remained ftill in Teneriffe, not blended with the Spaniards. Glas, p. 240. CHAP. THE PACIfkC OCEAN. CHAP. III. Departure from Teneriffe.—Danger of the Ship near Bonavifta.—Ifte of Mayo.—Port Pray a. — Precautions againft the Rain and fultry Weather in the Neighbourhood of the Equator.—Pofttion of the Coaft of Brazil. — Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope.—Tranfatlions there.—-Juntlion of the Difcovery.—Mr. Anderfon's Journey up the Country.—Aftronomical Obfervations.—Nautical Remarks on the Paffage from England to the Cape, with regard to the Currents and the Variation. HAVING completed our water, and got on '"6- board every other thing we wanted at Te-t ."^J neriffe, we weighed anchor on the 4th of Auguft, Sunday 4. and proceeded on our voyage, with a fine gale at North Eaft. At nine o'clock in the evening on the 10th *, Satur, 10, we faw the ifland of Bonavifta bearing South, dif- tant little more than a league; though, at this time, we thought ourfelves much farther off; but this proved a mistake. For, after hauling to the Eaftward till twelve o'clock, to clear the funken rocks that lie about a league from the South Eaft point of the ifland, we found ourfelves, at that time, clofe upon them, and did but juft weather the j both to the difti- impany, it may be * As a proof of Captain Cook's pline and to the health of his fhip' while to obferve here, that it appears from his log-book, he exercifed them at great guns and fmall arms, qjjidcjeared and fmoked the fhip below decks, twice in. the interval between the 4th and the 10th of Auguft, 2 breakers. A VOYAGE TO breakers. Our fituation, for a few minutes, was j very alarming. • I did not chufe to found, as that might have heightened the danger without any poffibility of leflening it. I make the North end of the ifland of Bonavifta to lie in the latitude of i6° 17'North, and in the longitude of 220 50/ Weft. '• As foon as we were clear of the rocks, we (leered South South Weft, till day-break next morning, and then hauled to the Westward, to go between Bonavifta and the ifle of Mayo, intending; to look into Port Praya for the Difcovery, as I had told .Captain Gierke that I fhould touch there, and did not know how foon he might fail after me. At one in the afternoon, we faw the rocks that lie on the South Weft fide of Bonavifta, bearing South Eaft, diftant three or four leagues. >■ Next morning, at fix o'clock, the ifle of Mayo bore South South Eaft^dtftant about five leagues. In this fituation we founded, and found grouftd at fixty fathoms. At the fame time the variation, by the mean of feveral azimuths taken with three different compafles, was 90 32!-' Weft.'o cAt eleven o'clock, one extreme of Mayo bore Eaft by North, and the other South Eaft by South. In this pofi- tion, two roundifh hills appeared near its North Eaft part; farther on, a large and higher hill; and, at about two-thirds of its length, a fingle one that is peaked. At the diftance we now faw this ifland, which was three or four miles, there was not the leaft appearance of vegetation, nor any relief to the eye from that lifelefs brown which prevails in countries under the Torrid Zone that are unwooded. Here I cannot help remarking that Mr. Ni- chelfon, in his Preface to Sundry Remarks and Obfervations made in a Voyage to the Eaft Indies, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 3I dies*, tells us, that " with eight degrees Weft varia- 1775. " tion, or any thing above that, you may venture to Auguft. " fail by the Cape de Verde Iflands night or day,' v 1 "'fbeing well affured, with that variation, that you " are to the Eaftward of them." Such an affer- tion might prove of dangerous confequence, were there any that would implicitly truft to it. We alfo tried the current, and found one fetting South Weft by Weft, fomething more than half a mile an hour. We had reafon to expect this, from the differences between the longitude given by the watch and dead reckoning, which, fince our leaving Teneriffe, amounted to one degree. While we were amongft thefe iflan^we had light breezes of wind, varying from the South Eaft to Eaft, and fome calms. This (hews that the Cape de Verde Iflands, are either extenfive enough to break the current of the trade wind, or that they are fituated juft beyond its verge, in that fpace where the variable winds, found on getting near the line, begin. The firft fuppofition, however, is the moft probable, as Dampier f found the ■wind wefterly here in the month of February j at which time the trade wind is fuppofed to extend farmed towards the equinoctial. The weather was hot and fultry, with fome rain \ and, for the moft part, a dull whitenefs prevailed in the fky, that Seems a medium between fog and clouds. In general, the tropical regions feldom enjoy that clear atmofphere obfervable where variable winds blow ; nor does the fun fhine with Such brightneSs. This circumftance, however, feems-gyfc*advantage; for otherwife, perhaps, the rays of the fun, being uninterrupted, would render the heat quite unfup- * On board his Ma^ft^-'s fhip Elizabeth, from 175810 1764; by William Nichelfon, Mafter of the faid Ship. London, 1773. + Dampier's Voyages, Yol. iii. p. 10. portable. 32 AVOYAGETO 1776. portable. The nights are, neverthelefs, often clear ^g^jand ferene. Tuefd. 13. At nine o'clock in the morning of the 13th, we arrived before Port Praya, in the ifland of St. Jago, where we faw two Dutch Eaft India fhips, and a fmall brigantine at anchor. As the Difcovery was not there, and we bad expended but little water in our paffage from Teneriffe, I did not think proper to go in, but flood to the Southward. Some altitudes of the Sun were now taken, to afcertain the true time. The longitude by the watch, deduced therefrom, was 230 48' Weft ; the little ifland in the bay bore Weft North Weft, diftant near three miles, which will make its longitude 230 51'. The fame watch, on my late voyage, made the longitude to be 230 30' Weft ; and we obferved the latitude to be 140 53' 30" North. Wedn. 14. The day after we left the Cape de Verde Iflands, we loft the North Eaft trade wind ; but did not get Friday 30. that which blows from the South Eaft till the 30th, when we were in the latitude of 20 North, and in the twenty-fifth degree of Weft longitude. During this interval *, the wind was moftly in the South Weft quarter. Sometimes it blew freSh, and in Squalls; but for the moft part a gentle breeze. The calms were few, and of (hort duration. Between the latitude of 120 and of 70 North, the weather was generally dark and gloomy, with * On the 18th, I funk a bucket with a thermometer feventy fathoms below the furface of the fea, where it remained two minutes ; and it took three minutes more to haul it up. The mercury in the thermometer was at 66, which before, in the air, flood at 78, and in the furface of the fea at 79. The water which came up in the bucket contained, by Mr. Cavendifh's table, _^., 7 part fait; and that at the furface of the fea JL, 4. As this laft was taken up after a fmart fhower of rain, it might te.ligh.t3BP en thatawtrant. Captain Cook's tog-book. frequent THE PACIFIC OCEAN. frequent rains, which enabled us to fave as much water as filled moft of our empty cafks. ^ Thefe rains, and the clofe fultry weather accompanying them, too often bring on ficknefs in this paffage. Every bad confequence, at leaft, is to be apprehended from them ; and commanders of fhips cannot be too much upon their guard, by purifying the air between decks with fires and fmoke, and by obliging the people to dry their clothes at every opportunity. Thefe precautions were conftantly obferved on board the Refolution * and Difcovery ; and we certainly profited by them, for we had now fewer fick' than on either of my former voyages. We had, however, the mortification to find our Ship exceedingly leaky in all her upper works. The hot and Sultry weather we had juft pafled through, had opened her feams, which had been badly caulked at firft, So wide, that they admitted the rain water through as it fell. There was hardly a man that could lie dry in his bed ; and the officers in the gun-room were all driven out of their cabbins, by the water that came through the fides. The fails in the fail-room got wet; and before we had weather to dry them, many of them were much damaged, and a great ex- pence of canvas and of time became neceffary to make them in fome degree ferviceable. Having experienced the fame defect in our Sail-rooms on my late voyage, it had been represented to the yard officers, who undertook to remove it. But it did not appear to me that any thing had been done to remedy the complaint. To repair thefe * The particulars are mentioned in his log-book. On the 14th of Auguft, a fire was made in the well, to air the fhip below. On the 15th, the fpare fails were aired upon deck, and a fire . made to air the fail-room. Oirthe 17th, cleaned and fmoked betwixt decks, and the bread-room aired with fires. On the sift, cleaned and fmoked betwixt decks-, a»d on the 32d, the men's bedding was fpread on deck to air. Vol. I. ' D defeds September. Sunday: A VOYAGE TO defects the caulkers were fet to work, as Soon as we got into fair fettled weather, to caulk the desks- andinfide weather works of the (hip; for I would not truft them over the fides while we were at fea. On the firft of September* we croffed the Equator, in the longitude of 270 38' Weft, with a fine gale at South Eaft by South ; and notwithftan$ia.g my apprehenfions of falling in with the coaft of Brazil in Stretching to the South Weft, I kept the (hip a full point from the wind. However, I found my fears were ill grounded ; for on drawing near that coaft, we met with the wind more and more eafterly ; fo that, by the time we were in the latitude of io° South, we could make a South Eafterly eourfe good. Sunday 8. On the 8di, we were in the latitude of 8° 57' South ; which is a little to the Southward of Cape St. Auguftine, on the coaft of Brafil. Our longitude, deduced from a very great number of lunar * The afternoon, as appears from Mr. Anderfon's Journal, was fpent in performing the old and ridiculous ceremony of ducking thofe who had not croffed the Equator before. Though Captain Cook did not fupprefs the cuftom, he thought it too trifling to deferve the leaft mention of it in his Journal, or even in'his log-book. Pernetty, the Writer of Bougainville's Voyage to the Falkland Iflands, in 1763 and 1764, thought differently ; for his account of the celebration of this childifh feftival on board his fhip, is extended through fevepteen pages, and makes the fubject of an entire chapter, under the title of Baptime de la Ligne. It may be worth while to tranferibe his introduction to the defcri-ption of it. " C'eft jjo ufage qui ne remonte pas plus haut " que ce voyage celebre de Gama, qui a fourni au Camoens le " fujet de la Lufiade. L'Idee qu'on ne fcauroit etre un bon ma- " rin, fans avoir traverfe l'Equateur, l'ennui infeparable- d'une " longue navigation, un certain efprit republicain qui regnedans *' toutes les petites focietes, peut-etre toutes ces caufes reunies, " on pu donner naiffance a ces efpeces de faturnales. QsgifuSI *' en foit, elles furent adoptees, en un inftant, dans toutes les " nations, & les hommes les plus eclaires furent obliges de fe "foumettre 3 une coutume dont ils reconnoiffoient rabfarigg* " Car, partout, des que le peuple parle, it faut que le fage fe " mette a l'unifon." Hiftoire d'un Voyage awe I/7es Malouines; obfer- THE PACIFI© OCEAN. 35 obfervations,: was 340 16' Weft ; and by the watch, 1776. 340 47'. The former is i° 43', and the latter z° 14' ^P*5™* more Wefterly than the ifland of Fernando de No-t - — _<■ ronha, the fituation of which was pretty well determined during my late voyage *. Hence I concluded that we could not now be farther from the continent than twenty or thirty leagues at moft; and perhaps not much lefs, as we neither had foundings, nor any other figns of land. Dr. Hal- ley, however, in his voyage, publifhed by Mr. Dalrymple, tells us f, that be made no more than one hundred and two miles, Meridian diftance, from the ifland [Fernando de Noronha] to the coaft of Bra- jit; and feems to think that currents could not be the whole caufe of his making fo little. But I rather think that he was miftaken, and that the cur- vents bad hurried him far to the Weftward of his intended eourfe. This was, in fome meafure, confirmed by our own obfervations; for we had found, during three or four days preceding the 8th, that the currents fet to the Weftward; and, during the laft twenty-four hours, it had fet Strong to the Northward, as we experienced a difference of twenty-nine miles between our obferved latitude and that by dead reckoning. Upon the whole, till fome better aftronomical obfervations are made on fhore on the Eaftern coaft of Brafil, I fhall conclude that its longitude is thirty-five degrees and a half, or thirty-fix degrees Weft, at moft. We proceeded on our voyage, without meeting October, with any thing of note, till the 6th of October. Sunday 6. Being then in the latitude of 35° 15' South, longitude 70 45' Weft, we met with light airs and calms by turns, for three days Successively. We had, for fome days before, feen albatrofles, pintadoes, and * See Cook's Voyage, Vol. II. p. 278. f P. n. D 2 Qtiier 36 A VOYAGE TO 1776. other petrels; and here we Saw three penguins, w^!ll) which occafioned us to found ; but we found no ground with a line of one hundred and fifty fathoms. We put a boat in the water, and (hot a few birds ; one of which was a black petrel, about the fize of a crow, and, except as to the bill and feet, very like one. It had a few white feathers under the throat; and the under-fide of the quill- feathers were of an afh-colour. All the other feathers were jet black, as alfo the bill and legs. TuefdayS. On the 8th, in the evening, one of thofe birds which failors call noddies, fettled on our rigging, and was caught. It was fomething larger than an Englifh black-bird, and nearly as black, except the upper part of the head, which was white, looking as if it were powdered; the whiteft feathers growing out from the bafe of the upper bill, from which they gradually affumed a darker colour, to about the middle of the upper part of the neck, where the white (hade was loft in the black, without being divided by any line. It was web-footed;. had black legs and a black bill, which was long, and not unlike that of a curlew. It is Said theSe birds never fly far from land. We knew of none nearer. the ftation we were in, than Gough's or Richmond Ifland, from which our diftance could not be lefs than one hundred leagues. But it muft be obferved: that the Atlantic Ocean, to the Southward of this latitude, has been but little frequented ; fo that, there may be more iflands there than we are acquainted with. We frequently, in the night, faw thofe luminous marine animals mentioned and defcribed in my firft voyage *. Some of them Seemed to be considerably larger than any I had before met with; and * See Hawkefworth's Collection of Voyages, Vol. II. p. i$- T HJ$&P A C I F I C O C E A N. 37 fometimes they were fo numerous, that hundreds 1776. were vifible at.the fame moment. oaober. This calm weather was fucceeded by a frefh '-""v"*—* gale from the North Weft, which laded two days. Then we had again variable light airs for about twenty-four hours; when the North Weft wind returned, and blew with fuch Strength, that on the 17th we had fight of the Cape of Good Hope ;Thurf. 17. and the next day anchored in Table Bay, in four Friday 18. fathoms water, with the church bearing South Weft I South, and Green Point North Weft 4 Weft. As foon as we had received the uSual vifit from the Mafter Attendant and the Surgeon, I fent an- officer to wait on Baron Plettenberg, the Governor ; and, on his return, Saluted the garriSon with thirteen guns, which compliment was returned with the fame number. We Sound in the bay two French Eaft India Ships; the one outward, and the other homeward bound. And two or three days before our arrival, another homeward bound fhip of the fame nation had parted from her cable, and been driven on fhore at the head of the bay, where fhe was loft. The crew were Saved; but the greatest part of the cargo fhared the fame fate with the Ship, or (which amounted to the Same) was plundered and ftoien by the inhabitants, either ont of the fhip, or as it was driven or carried on fhore. This is the account the French officers gave to me; and the Dutch themfelves could not deny the fact; But, by way of excufing themfelves from being guilty of a crime difgraceful to every civilized ftate, they endeavoured to lay the whole blame on the French Captain, for not applying in time for a guard. As 38 AVOYAGETO 1776-. As foon as we had faluted, I went on fhore, ac- Oftober. companied by fome of my officers, and waited on ^""^^-me Governor, the Lieutenant Governor, theFifcal, and the commander of the troops. Thefe gentlemen received me with the greatest civility; and the Governor, in particular, promiSed me every af- fiftance that the place afforded. At the fame time I obtained his leave to fet up our obfervatory on any fpot I fhould think moft convenient; to pitch tents for the failmakers and coopers; and to bring the cattle on fhore, to graze near our encampment. Before I returned on board, I ordered foft bread, frefh meat, and greens, to be provided, every day, for the Ship's company. Tuefd. 22. On the 22d, we Set up the tents and obfervatory, and began to Send the Several articles out of the fhip which I wanted on Shore. This could not be done Sooner, as the militia of the place were exer- cifing on, or near the ground which we were to occupy. Wedn.23. The next day, we began to obferve equal altitudes of the Sun, in order to aScertain the rate of the watch, or, which is the Same thing, to find whether it had altered its rate. Thefe obfervations were continued every day, whenever the weather would permit, till the time of our departure drew near. But before this, the caulkers had been fet to work to caulk the fhip ; and I had concerted meafures with Meffrs. Brandt and Chiron, for Supplying both Ships with Such provisions as I fhould want. Bakers, likewife, had been ordered, immediately after our arrival, to bake fuch a quantity of bread as I thought would be requisite. As fad as the feveral articles deftined for the Refolution were got ready, they were carried on board. . ! On THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 39 On the 26th, the French fhip failed for Europe, 1776. and by her, we fent letters to England. The next oa°ber- day, the Hampfhire Eaft India fhip, from Bencoo-<T^"^ len, anchored in the bay, and faluted us with Sunday27. thirteen guns, which we returned with eleven. Nothing remarkable happened till the evening of the 31ft, when it came on to blow exceffivelyThurf. 31. hard at South Eaft, and continued for three days ; during which time there was no communication between the fhip and the fhore. The Refolution was the only fhip in the bay that rode out the gale without dragging her anchors. We felt its effects as fenfibly on Shore. Our tents and observatory were torn to pieces; and our aftronomical quadrant narrowly eScaped irreparable damage. On the £^m~ 3d of November the Storm ceaSed, and the next Sunday 3. day we reSumed our different employments. On the 6th, the Hampfhire India fhip failed for Wedn. 6. England. In her I fent home an invalid, whom Captain Trimble was fo obliging as to receive on board. 1 was afterwards forry that I had not availed myfelf of this opportunity to part with two or three more of my crew, who were troubled with different complaints; but, at this time, there was fome hope of their health being re-efta- blifhed. In the morning of the 10th, the Difcovery ar-Sund rived in the bay. Captain Clerke informed me that he had failed from Plymouth on the j ft of Auguft, and Should have been with us here a week Sooner if the late gale of wind had not blown him off the coaft. Upon the whole, he was Seven days longer in his paffage from England than we had been. He had the misfortune to lofe one of his marines, by falling over-board; but there had been no other mortality amongft his people, and they now arrived well and healthy. 2 Captain 4© AVOYAGETO f 1776. Captain Gierke having reprefented to me that jJovem- his fhip was in want of caulking; that no time «_—^_j might be loft in repairing this defect, next day I Mond. 11. fent all my workmen on board her, having already completed this Service on board the Refolution. I lent every other affiftance to the Captain to expedite his fupply of provifions and water, having given him an order to receive on board as much of both articles as he could conveniently (low. I now found that the bakers had failed in baking the bread I had ordered for the Difcovery- They pretended a want of flour; but the truth was, they were doubtful of her coming, and did not care to begin, till they Saw her at anchor in the bay. 1 have before made mention of our getting our cattle on Shore. The bull and two cows, with their calves, were Sent to graze along with fome other cattle; but I was advifed to keep our fheep, Sixteen in number, clofe to our tents, where they were penned up every night. During the night Thurf. 14. preceding the 14th, fome dogs having got in amongft them, forced them out of the pen, killing four, and difperfing the reft. Six of them were recovered the next day; but the two rams, and two of the fined ewes in the whole flock were amongft thofe miffing. Baron Plettenberg being now in the country, I applied to the Lieutenant Governor, Mr. Hemmy, and to the Fifcal. Both thefe Gentlemen promifed to vSe their endeavours . for the recovery of the loft fheep. The Dutch, we know, boaft that the police at the Cape is fo carefully executed, that it is hardly poflible for a Slave, with all his cunning and knowledge of the country, to effectuate his efcape. Yet my fheep evaded all the vigilance of the Fifcal's officers and people. However, after much trouble and expence, by employing Some of the meaneft and lowed Scoundrels in the place (who, to ufe the phrafe of 1 the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 41 the perSon who recommended this method to me, 1776. would, Sor a ducatoon, cut their matter's throat, N?vem- burn the houfe over his head, and bury him and v^^^ the whole family in the afhes), I recovered them all but the two ewes. Of thefe I never could hear the leaft tidings; and I gave over all inquiry after them, when 1 was told, that fince I had got the two rams, I might think myfelf very well off. One of thefe, however, was fo much hurt by the dogs, that there was reafon to believe he would never recover. Mr. Hemmy very obligingly offered to make up this lofs, by giving me a Spanifh ram, out of fome that he had fent for from Lifbon. But I declined the offer, under a perfuafioh that it would anfwer my purpofe full as well, to take with me fome of the Cape rams; the event proved, that I was under a miftake. This Gentleman has taken fome pains to introduce European fheep at the Cape-, but his endeavours, as he told me, have been fruf- trated by the obftinacy of the country people, who hold their own breed in greater eftimation, on account of their large tails, of the fat of which they fometimes make more money than of the whole carcafs befides * ; and think that the wool of European fheep will, by no means, make up for their deficiency in this refpect. Indeed, I have heard fome fenfible men here make the fame obfervation. And there feems to be foundation for it. For, admitting that European fheep were to pro- * " The moft remarkable thing in the Cape fheep, is the length and thicknefs of their tails, which weigh from fifteen to twenty pounds. The fat is not fo tallowifh as that of European mutton, and the poorer fort ufe it for butter." Kolben's Cape of Good Hope [Englifh tranflation], Vol. II. p. 65. DelaCaille, who finds every thing wrong, in Kolben, fays, the weight of the tails of the Cape fheep is not above five or fix pounds. Voyage de la Cattle, p. 343. If the information given to Captain Cook may be depended upon, it will prove that, in this inftance at leaft, Kolben is unjuilly accufed of exaggeration. duce 4a AVOYAGETO 1116. duce wool of the fame quality here as in Europe, N berm" whkh experience has (hewn not to be the caSe, the *—v-*—' Dutch have not hands, at the Cape of Good Hope, to Spare for the manufacturing even their own clothing. It is certain that, were it not for the continual importation of Slaves, this Settlement would be thinner of people than any other inhabited part of the world. While the Ships were getting ready for the pro- fecution of our voyage, fome of our officers made an excurfion to take a view of the neighbouring country. Mr. Anderfon, my Surgeon, who was one of the party, gave me the following relation of their proceedings *: Satur. is. " On the 16th, in the forenoon, I fet out in a waggon, with five more, to take a view of fome part of the country. We croffed the large plain that lies to the Eaftward of the town, which is entirely a white fand, like that commonly found on beaches, and produces only heath, and other fmall plants of various forts. At five in the afternoon we paffed a large farm-houfe, with fome cornfields, and pretty considerable vineyards, fituated beyond the plain, near the foot of fome low hills, where the foil becomes worth cultivating. Between fix and feven we arrived at Stellenbofh, the colony next to that of the Cape for its importance. The village does not confift of more than thirty houSes, and (lands at the foot of the range of lofty * In the Philefophical Tranfadtions, Vol. lstvi. p. 268 to 319, is an Account of Three Journies from the Cape Town into the Southern Parts of Africa, in 1772, 1773, and 1774; by Mr. Francis Maffon, who had been fent from England for the difcovery of new plants, towards the improvement of the Royal Botanical Garden at Kew. Much curious information is contained in Mr. Maffon's account of thefe journies. M. de Pages, who was at the Cape in 1773, gives fome remarks on the ftate of that fettlement, and alfo the particulars of his jodrney from Falfe Bay to the Cape Town. Voyage vers le Pole du Sud, p. 17 to 32. mountains, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. . 43 mountains, above tweriljipi^jtethe Eaftward of 1776. the Cape Town. The houfes are neat^-jand, with Nt£fm" the advantage of a rivulet which runs near, and the v-_^l«^; Shelter of fome large oaks, planted at its firft fettling, forms what may be called a rural profpect in this defert country. There are feme vineyards and orchards about the place, which, from their thriving appearance, feem to indicate an excellent foil; though, perhaps, they owe much to climate, as the air here has an uncommon ferenity. I employed the next day in fearching for plants Sund. 17, and infects about Stellenbofh, but had little fuccefs. Few plants are in flower here at this feafon, and infects but fcarce. I examined the Soil in Several places, and found it to confift of yellowifh clay, mixed with a good deal of fand. The fides of the low hills, which appear brown, Seem to be con- ftituted of a fort of (lone marie. We left Stellenbofh next morning, and Soon ar- Mond. 18. rived at the houSe we had paffed on Saturday; the owner of which, Mr. Cloeder, had fent us an invitation, the evening before, to vifit him. This Gentleman entertained us with the greateft hofpi- tality, and in a manner very different from what >||}.f|pected. He received us with mufic; and a bapd alfo played while we are at dinner; which, confidering the fituation of the place, might be reckoned elegant. He (hewed us his wine-cellars, his orchards, and vineyards; all which, I muft own, infpired me with a wifh to know in what manner thefe induflrious people could create fuch plenty in a fpot where, I believe, no other European nation would have attempted to fettle. In the afternoon we croffed the country, and paffed a few plantations, one of which feemed very considerable, and was laid out pf a tafte fome- 44 AVOYAGETO 1776. fomewhat different from any other we Saw. In berm" t'ie even'ng we arrived at a farm-houfe, which v—>r^j is the firft in the cultivated tract called the Pearl. We had, at the fame time, a view of Drakenftein, the third colony of this country, which lies along by the foot of the lofty hills already mentioned, and contains feveral farms or plantations, not very extenfive. Tueia. 19. I went, on the 19th in the forenoon, in quell of plants and infects, which I found almoft as fearce as at Stellenbofh ; but I met with more fhrubs or Small trees, naturally produced, in the valleys, than in any part of the country I had hitherto feen. In the afternoon, we went to fee a (lone of a remarkable fize, called by the inhabitants the Tower of Babylon, or the Pearl Diamond *. It lies, or Stands, upon the top of fome low hills, at. the foot of which our farm-houfe was fituated; and though - the road to it is neither very deep nor rugged, we were above an hour and a half in walking to it. It is of an oblong fhape, rounded on the top, and lies nearly South and North. The Eaft and Weft * In the Philofophical Tranfaftions, Vol. lxviii. Part I.' p. 102. we have a Letter from Mr. Anderfon to Sir John Pringle, describing this remarkable ftone. The account fent home from the Cape, and read before the Royal Society, is much the fame with that now publifhed, but rather fuller. In particular, he tells Sir John, that he went to fee it at Mr. Maffon's defire, who, probably, had not had an opportunity of fufficiently examining it himfelf. In the account of his journies, above referred to, p. 270, he only fays, " there are two large folid rocks on the Per el Berg, each of which (he believes) is more than a mile in circumference at thebqfe, and upwards of two hundred feet high. Their furfaces are nearly fmooth, without chink or fiffures; and they are found to be a fpecies of granite, different from that which compofes the neighbouring mountains." Mr. Anderfon having, ;with his letter to Sir John Pringle, alfo fent home a fpecimen of the rock, it was examined by Si? William Hamilton, whofe opinion is, that " this Jingular, immenfe fragment of granite, mofl probably has been raifed by a volcanic explojon, or fome $m caufe." See his Letter to Sir John Pringle, annexed to Mr. Ani&|a»s, in the Philofophical Tranf- fides the pacific Ocean. fides are deep, and almod perpendicular. The South end is likewife deep, and its greated height K is there; from whence it declines gently to the^ North part, by which we afcended to its top, and had an extenfive view of the whole country. Its circumference, I think, mud be at leaft half a mile ; as it took us above half an hour to walk round it, including every allowance for the bad road, and dopping a little. At its highed part, which is the fouth end, comparing it with a known object, it feems to equal the dome of St. Paul's church. It is one uninterrupted mafs or done, if we except fome fiffures, or rather imprefiions, not above three or four feet deep, and a vein which runs acrofs near its North end. It is of that fort of done called, by Mineralogifts, Saxum congluti- natum, and confifts chiefly of pieces of coarfe quartz and glimmer, held together by a clayey cement. But the vein which erodes it, though of the fame materials, is muillt compacter. This vein is not above a foot broad or thick; and its furface is cut into little Squares or oblongs, difpofed obliquely, which makes it look like the remains of fome artificial work. But I could not obferve whether it penetrated far into the large rock, or was only fu- perficial. In defcending, we found at its foot a very rich black mould ; and on the fides of the hills, fome trees of a confiderablefize, natives of the place, which are a fpecies of olea *. In * It is ftrange that neither Kolben nor de la Caille fhould have thought the Tower of Babylon worthy of a particular description. The former [Vol. II. p. 52, 53, Englifh Tranflation] only mentions it as a high mountain. The latter contents himfelf with telling us, that it is a very low hillock, un tres has monticule. Voyage de la Caille, p. 341. We are much obliged to Mr. Anderfon for his very accurate account of this remarkable rock, which agrees with Mr. Sonnerat's, who was at the Cape of Good Hope fo late as 1781. His words are, " La Montagne de la " Perle, merite d'etre obfervee. C'eft un des plus hautes des " environs du Cap. Elle n'eft compofee que d'un feul bloc " de 46 A VOYAGE TO 1776. In the morning on the 20th, we fet out from N(jr!!*1~ tne Pearl; and going a different road from that k^-J^j by which we came, paffed through a country Wedn. 20. wholly uncultivated, till we got to the Tyger hills, when fome tolerable corn-fields appeared. At noon, we flopped in a hollow for refrefhment; but, in walking about here, were plagued with a vaft number of mufquitoes or fand flies, which were the firft I faw in the country. In the afternoon we fet out again, and in the evening arrived at the Cape Town, tired with the jolting waggon." Satur.23. On the 23d, we got on board the obfervatory, clock, &c. By a mean of the feveral refults of the equal altitudes of the Sun, taken with the aftronomical quadrant, the aftronomical clock was found to lofe on fidereal time, 1' S'',^6S each day. The pendulum was kept at the fame length as at Greenwich, where the daily lofs of the clock on fidereal time, was 4". The watch, by the mean of the refults of fifteen days obfervations, was found to be lofing S",26i, on mean time, each day; which is i",052 more than at Greenwich: and on the 21ft, at noon, She was too (low Sor mean time by ih. 20' sy",66. From this, 6' $",$$6, is to be Subtracted, for what She was too flow on the 11 th of June at Greenwich, and her daily rate fince; and the remainder, viz. i\ 14'. o8",704, or 180 32' 10", will be the longitude of the Cape Town by the watch. Its true longitude* as found by Meffrs. Mafon and Dixon, is 180 23' 15". As " de granit crevafie dans plufieurs endroits." Voyage aux hides, Tom. II. p. 91. Mr. Sonnetfat tells us, that Mr. Gordon, Commander of the troops at tbe-'Gape, had lately made three journies up the country, frCHR' wbichf $hcn he publishes fcas Journal, we may expect much curious information. our T H £h.$ ACIFIC OCEAN. 47 our observations were made about half a mile to 1776". the Eaft of theirs, the error of the watch, in Ion- N^m" gitude, is no more than 8' 25". Hence we havev.-^X-i reafon to conclude, that fhe had gone well all the way from England, and that the longitude, thus given, may be nearer the truth than any other. If this be admitted, it will, in a great meafure, enable me to find the direction and Strength of the currents we met with on this paffage from England. For, by comparing the latitude, ^d longitude by dead reckoning, with thofe by ©bfervatiort and the watch, we Shall, from time to tipe, have, very accurately, the error of the (hip's reckoning, be the cauSe what it will. But as all imaginable; care was taken in having and keeping the log, and every neceflary allowance made for lee-way, heave of the fea, and other fuch circumftances, I oaiW not attribute thofe errors that did happen, to any other caufe but currents; but mc^rparticu- larly when the error was conftantly the fame way, for Several days Successively. On the contrary, if we find the (hip a-head of the reckoning on one day, and a-fterfflbof it on another, we have reafon to belffre that fuch errors are owing to accidental caufes, and note lis • currents. This Seems to have been the caSe in our paffage between England and Teneriffe. - &$|$ from the time of our leaving that ifland, till the 15th of Auguft, being then in the latitude of \z° North, and longitude 240 Weft, the (hip i$ms carried i° 20' of longitude to the Weftward of her reckoning. At this ftation, the currents took a contrary direction, and (et to Eaft South Eaft, at the rate 6f twelve or fourteen miles a day, or twenty-four hours, till we arrived into the latitude of 50 North, and longitude of 200 Weft; which was our moft Eafterly fituation after leav- ing A VOYAGE TO ing the Cape de Verde Iflands, till we got to the • Southward. For in this fituation the wind came , Southerly, and we tacked and Stretched to the Weftward ; and for two or three days, could not find that our reckoning was affected by any current. So that, I judged, we were between the current that generally, if not conftantly, fets to the Eaft upon the coaft of Guinea, and that which fets to the Weft towards the coaft of Brafil. This Wefterly current was not confiderable till we got into 2° North, and 250 Weft. From this Station, to 30 South and 300 Weft, the (hip, in the fpace of four days, was carried one hundred and fifteen miles in the direction of South Weft by Weft, beyond her reckoning; an error by far too great to have any other caufe but a Strong current running in the Same direction. Nor did its Strength abate here; but its courSe was, afterward, more Wefterly, and to the North of Weft; and off Cape Auguftine, North, as I have already mentioned. But this Northerly current did not exift at twenty or thirty leagues to the Southward of that Cape; nor any other, that I could perceive, in the remaining part of the paffage. The little difference we afterward found between the reckoning and obfervations, might very well happen without the affiftance of currents; as will appear by the Table of Days Works. In the account of my lad voyage *, I remarked, that the currents one meets with in this paffage generally balance each other. It happened So then; becauSe we croffed the line about 200 more to the Eaftward than we did now; fo that we were, of confequence, longer under the influence oT the Easterly current, which made up for the Wefterly one. * Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol. I, p. 14. And THE PACIFIC OCEAN. And this, I apprehend, will generally be the cafe, if you crofs the line io° or 150 to the Eaft of ] the meridian of St. Jago. c From thefe remarks I fhall draw the following conclufion, That, after palling the Cape de Verde Ifland, if you do not make above 40 or 50 Eafting, and crofs the line in, or to the Weftward of, the meridian of St. Jago, you may expect to find your fhip 30 or 40 to the Weftward of her reckoning, by the time you get into the latitude of io° South. If, on the other hand, you keep well to the Eaft, and crofs the line 150 or 209 to the Eaft of St. Jago, you will be then as much to the Ead of your reckoning | and the more you keep to the Ead- ward, the greater will be your error; as has been experienced by fome India fhips, whofe people have found themfelves clofe upon the coad of Angola, when they thought its didanee was above two hundred leagues. During the whole of our paffage from England, no opportunity was omitted of obferving, with all the attention and accuracy that circumdanoes would permit, the variation of the compafs, which I have inferted in a Table, with the latitude and longitude of the fhip at the time of obfervation. As the longitude may be depended upon, to a quarter or half a degree at moft, this Table will be of ufe to thofe navigators who correct their reckoning by the variation. It will alfo enable Mr. Dun to correct his new Variation Chart, a thing very much wanted. It feems drange to me, that the advocates for the variation fhould not agree amongd themfelves. We find one * of them telling us, as I have already obferved, that with 8° Weft variation, or any thing above thatx you may venture to fail by the * Jftchelfon. E e*t L A VOYAGE TO Cape de Verde Iflands, by night or day;, being well affured, wkk that variation*, that you are to the Eta/h- j ward of them. Another, in his Chart *, lays down this variatioti ninety' leagues to the Weflward of them. Such a difagreement as this, is a drong proof of the uncertainty of both. However, I have no doubt, the former found here, as well as in other places, the variation he mentions. But he flmild have confidered, that at fea, nay even on land, the refults of the mod accurate obfervations will not always be the fame. Different compafles will give different variations; and even the fame compafs will differ from itfelf two degrees, without our being able to difcover, much lefs to remove, the caufe. Whoever imagines he can find the variation within a degree, will very often fee himfelf m$dk deceived. For, befides the imperfection which may be in the construction of the indrument, or in the power of the needle, it is certain that the motion of the fhip, or attraction of the ironwork, or fome other caufe not yet xtefcovered, will frequently occafion far greater errors than tfeis. That the variation may be found, with a fhace of accuracy more than fufficient to determine the (hip's eourfe, is allowed; but that it can be found fo exactly as to fix the longitude within a degree, or fixty miles, I absolutely deny. CHAP. THE PACIFIC OCEAN, CHAP. IV. The two /hips leave the Cape of Good Hope.—Two Iflands, named Prince Edward's, feen, and their Appearance deftribed.—Kerguelen's Land vifited.-—Arrival in Chriftmas Harbour.—Occurrences there.—Defcription of it. AFTER the difafter which happened to our 1775. Sheep, it may be well SuppoSed I did not truft Novem- thoSe that remained, long on fhore; but got them, \^J^^j and the other cattle, on board as faft as poflible. I alSo added to my original (lock, by purchafing two young bulls, two heifers, two young ftone- horSes, two mares, two rams, Several, fjyes and g03ts, and Some rabbits and poultry. All of them were intended for New Zealand, Otaheite, and the neighbouring iflands, or any other places, in the courSe of our voyage, where there might be a profpect that the leaving any of them would be ufeful to posterity. Towards the latter end of November, the caulkers had finifhed their work on board the Difcovery, and fhe had received all her provifions and water. Of the former, both fi^ifs had a Supply Sufficient for two years and upwards. ..^fad every other article we could think of, neceffary for fuch a voyage, that could be had at the Cape, was procured ; neither knowing when, or where, we might come to a place where we could furnifh ourfelves fo well. E 2 Having 5* A VOYAGE TO iri6. Having given Captain Gierke a copy of my in- Nberm" uLruc^lons» and an order directing him how to pro- v—vX^w,ceed in caSe of feparation; in the morning of the Satur. 3o. 30th, we repaired on board. At five in the afternoon a breeze fprung up at South Eaft, with which we weighed, and (lood out of the bay. At nine it fell calm, and we anchored between Penguin Ifland I^*m" and the Eaft fhore, where we lay till three o'clock Sunday. 1. next morning. We then weighed and put to fea, with a light breeze at South; but did not get clear Tuefday3. of the land till the morning of the 3d, when with a frefh gale at Weft North Weft, we (lood to the South Eaft, to get more into the way of thefe winds. Thurf. M On me 5tr!> a fudden fquall of wind carried away the Resolution's mizen top-maft. Having another to replace it, the lofs was not felt; efpe- cially as it was a bad (tick, and had often complain- Fridayg. ed. On the 6th, in the evening, being then in the latitude of 390 14' South, and in the longitude of 230 56' Eaft, we paffed through feveral fmall fpots of water of reddifh colour. Some of this was taken up; and it was found to abound with a fmall animal, which the microfcope difcovered to be like a cray-fifh, of a reddifh hue. We continued our eourfe to the South Eaft, with a very Strong gale from the Weftward, followed by a mountainous fea; which made the fhip roll and tumble exceedingly, and gave us a great deal of trouble to preferve the cattle we had on board. Notwithftanding all our care, feveral goats, cfpecially the males, died; and fome fheep. This misfortune was, in a great meafure, owing to the cold, which we now began mod fenfibly to feel. |Piwt€ 12. Qu the 12th, at noon, we faw land extending from South Ead by South, to South Eaft by Eaft. Upon a nearer approach, we found it to be two ifland?. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. iflands. That which lies moft to the South, and is alfo the largeft, I judged to be about fifteen ] leagues in circuit; and to be in the latitude of v. 460 $$ South, and in the longitude of 370 46' Eaft. The moft Nort|jfrIy one is about nine leagues in circuit; and lies in the latitude of 46° 40' South, and pf^gp 8' Eaft longitude. The diftance from the one to the other is about five leagues. We paffed through tibjf. channel, at equal diftance from both iflands-, and could not difcover, with the afliftance of our beft glaffes, either tree or fhrub on either of them. They feemed to have a rocky and bold fhore; and, excepting the South Eaft parts, where the land is? gather low and flat, a furface compofed of barren mountains, which rife to a confiderable height, and whofe fum- mits and fides were covered with fho%; which in many places feemed to be of a confiderable depth. The South Eaft parts had a g^ach greater qajgjj-. tity on them than the reft ; owing probably, to the Sun acting for a lefs fpace of time on thefe than on the North and North Weft parts. The ground, where it was not hid by the fnow, from the various (hades it exhibited^^may be fuppofed to be covered with mofs, or, perhaps, fuch a coarfe grafe as is found in fome pags of Falkland's Iflands. On the North.jSde of each of the ifljB^fs is a detached rock: that near the Soyi}*ifland is Shaped like a tower, and Seemed to^e at Some diftance from the fhore. As we paffed along, a quantity of fea-weed was feen, and the colour of the water indicated foundings. But Jpere was no appearance of an inlet, unlefs near the rock juft mentioned; and that, from its fmallnefs, did not promife a good anchoring-place. Thefe 54 A VOYAGE TO 1776. Thefe two iflands, as alfo four others which lie Decern- from nine to twelve degrees of longitude more to v__^_,the Eaft, and nearly in the fame latitude, were difcovered, as I have mentioned in my late Voyage*, by Captains Marion du Frefne, and Crozet, French Wa^igators, in January 1772, on their paffage in two (hips from the Cape of Good Hope to the Philippine Iflands. As they have no names in the French chart of the Southern hemifphere, which Captain Crozet communicated to me in 1775I", I fhall diflinguifh the two we now Saw, by calling them Prince Edward's Iflands, after his Majefty's fourth fon; and the other four, by the name of Marion's and Crozet's Iflands, to commemorate their difcoverers. We had now, for the moft part, Strong gales between the North and Weft, and but very indifferent weather; not better, indeed, than we generally have in England in the very depth of Winter, though it was now the middle of Summer in this hemifphere. Not difcouraged, however, by this, after leaving Prince Edward's Iflands, I Shaped <t$I eourfe to pafs to the Southward of the others, that I might get into the latitude of the land discovered by Monfieur de Kerguelen. I had applied to the Chevalier de Borda, whom, as I have mentioned, I found at Teneriffe, requesting, that if he knew any thing of the ifland discovered by Monfieur de Kerguelen, between the Cape of Good Hope and New Holland, he would * Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 266. Thefe iflands are there faid to be in the latitude of 480 South ; that is, two degrees farther South ; than what here appears to be their real pofition. + See Cook's Voyage, as above. Dr. Forfter, in his obfervations made during that voyage,, p. 30, gives us this defcription of the Chart then communicated by Monfieur Crozet: that it was publifhed under the patronage of the Duke de Croye, by Robert de Vaugondy, Captain Cook tells us lower in this Chapter, that it was publifhed in 1773. be 1 THE PA §&F I C O C E A N. 55 be fo obliging as to communicate it to me. Ac- 1776. cordingly, juft before we failed from Santa Cruz Dj^m" bay, he Sent me the following account of it, viz. u—v—— " That the Pilot of the Bouflole, who was in the H voyage with Monfieur de Kerguelen, had given *' him the latitude and longitude of a little ifland, ** which Monfieur de Kerguelen called the Ifle " of Rendezvous, and which lies not far from " the great ifland which he faw. Latitude of the ^■•htrfe ifle, by feven obfervations, 480 26' South; " longitude, by feven obfervations of the diftance " of the Sun and Moon, 640 57' Eaft from Paris." I was very forry I had not fponer known that there was on board the frigate at Teneriffe, an officer who had been with Monfieur de Kerguelen, efpe- cially the Pilot; becaufe from him 1 might have obtained more interefting information about this land than the fituation alone, of which I was not before entirely ignorant *. My * Captain Cook's proceedings, as related in the remaining part of this Chapter, and in the next, being upon a coaft newly difcovered by the French, it could not but be an object of his attention to trace the footfteps of the original explorers. But no fispesiority of profeffional {kill, nor diligence in exerting it, could poffibly qualify him to do this fuccefsfully, without pof- fefftng, at the fame time, full and authentic intelligence of all that had been performed here by his predeceffors in the difcovery. But that he was not fo fortunate as to be thus fufficiently inftruft- ed, will appear from the following fa&s, which the Reader is requefted to attend to, before he proceeds to the perufal of this part of the Journal. How very little was known, with any precifion, about the operations of Kerguelen, when Captain Cook failed in 1776, may be inferred from the following paragraph of his Inftructions : " You are to proceed in fearch of fome iflands faid to have been " lately feen by the French in the latitude of 480 South, and in « the meridian of Mauritius (a)." This was, barely, the amount of the very indefinite and imperfect information, which Captain Cook himfelf had received from Baron Plettenberg at the Cape of Good Hope, in November 177a (b); in the beginning of •rolricfe year Kerguelen's_/?r/? voyage had taken place. (a) See the Infttnaions in the IntroduSion. (b) See Capfcrra Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. it A VOYAGE TO 1776. My inftructions directing me to examine it, with berT" a v'ew t0 difcover a good harbour, I proceeded in the The Captain, on his return homeward, in March 1^75, heard, a fecond time, fomething about this French difcovery at the Cape, where he met with Monfieur Crozet, who very obligingly communicated id him a Chart of the Southern Hemifphere, wherein were delineated not only his own difcoveries, but alfo that of Captain Kerguelen (a). But what little information that Chart could convey, was ftill necelfarily confinedto the operations of the firft voyage ; the.Chart here referred to, having- been publifhed in France in 1773; that is, before any intelligence could poffibly be conveyed from the Southern Hemifphere of the refult of Kerguelen's fecond vifit to this new land •, which, we now know, happened towards the clofe of the fame year. Of thefe latter operations, the only account (if that can be called an account, which conveys no particular information) received by Captain Cook from Monfieur Crozet, was, that a later Voyage had been undertaken by the French, under the command of Captain Kerguelen, which had ended much to the difgrace of that commander (b). What Crozet had not communicated to our Author, and what we are fure, from a variety of circumftances, he had never heard of from any other quarter, he miffed an opportunity of learning at Teneriffe. He expreffes his being forry, as we have juft read, that he did not know fooner that there was on board the frigate an officer who had been -with Kerguelen, as he might have obtain-* ed from him more interefiing information about this land, than its Jiiuation. And, indeed, if he had converfed with that officer, he might have obtained information more interefiing than he was e of; he might have learnt that Kerguelen had actually vi- this Southern land a fecond time, and that the little ifle of which he then received the name and pofition from the Chevalier de Borda, was a difcovery of this later voyage. But the account 'eyed to him being, as the Reader will obferve, unaccompanied with any date, or other diftinguifhing circumftance, he left Teneriffe, and arrived on the coafts of Kerguelen's Land, under a full perfuafion that it had been vifited only once before. And even, with regard to the operations of that firft voyage, he had nothing to guide him, but the very fcanty materials afforded to him by Baron Pletteiiberg and Monfieur Crozet. The truth is, the French feem, for fome reafon or other, not furely founded on the importance of Kerguelen's difcovery, to have been very fhy of publifhing a full and diftincl account of it. No fuch account had been publifhed while Captain Cook lived. Nay, even after the return of his fhips in 1780, the Gentleman who obligingly lent his affiftance to give a view of the prior obfervations of the French, and to connect them on the fame Chart with thofe of our Author, though his afliduity in procuring geographical information can be equalled only by his readinefs in icating it, had not, it fhould feem, been able to procure (a) See Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 466. (b) Ibid. p. 468. 1 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 57 the Search; and on the 16th, being then in the 1776- latitude of 4$° 45', and in the longitude of 520 Be£™~ Eaft, we Saw penguins and divers, and rock-weed t^-^ » floating in the Sea. We continued to meet with Mond. 16. more or leSs of thefe every day, as we proceeded to the Eaftward; and on the 21ft, in the latitudeSatur.ai. of 480 27' South, and in the longitude of 650 Eaft, a very large fe.al was feen. We had now much foggy weather, and, as we expected to fall in with the land every hour, our navigation became both tedious and dangerous. At length, on the 24th, at fix o'clock in theTuefd.«4. morning, as we were (leering to the Eaftward, the fog clearing away a little, we Saw land *, bearing South any materials for that purpofe, but fuch as mark the operations of the firft French vqyag'e ; and even for thefe, he was indebted to a MS. drawing. But this veil of unneceffary fecrecy is Jfejlength drawn afide. Kerguelen himfelf has, very lately, publifhed the Journal of his proceedings in two fucceflive voyages, in the years 1772 and 1773; and has annexed to his Narrative a Chart of the coafts of this land, as far as he had explored them in both voyages. Monfieur de Pages, alfo, much about the fame time, favoured us with another account of the fecond voyage, in fome refpefts fuller than Kerguelen's own, on board whofe fhip he was then an officer. From thefe fources of authentic information, we are enabled to draw every neceffary material to correct what is erroneous, and io illuftrate what, otherwife, would have remained obfcure, in this part of Captain Cook's Journal. We fhall take occafion to do this in feparate Notes on the paffages as they occur, and conclude this tedious, but, it is hoped, not unneceffary, detail of facts, with one general remark, fully exprefftve of thp^^dvantages our Author laboured under. He never faw that part of the coaft upon which the French had been in 1772; and he never knew that they had been upon another part of it in 1773, which was the very fcene of his own operations. Confequently, what he knew of the former voyage, as delineated upon Crozet's Chart, only ferved to perplex and miilead his judgment; and his total ignorance of the latter, put it out of his power to compare his own obfervations with thofe then made by Kerguelen; though we, who are better inftrufted, can do this, by tracing the plaineft marks of coincidence and agreement. * Captain-Cook was not the original difcoverer of thefe fmall iflands which he now fell in with. It is certain that they had been feen and named by Kerguelen, on his fecond voyage, in Decem- !-aJtSf ■ ber A VOYAGE TO South South Eaft, which, upon a nearer approach, we found to be an ifland of confiderable height, and j about three leagues in?qbcuit*. Soon after, we faw aaojtfeer of the fame magnitude, one league to the Eaftward f ; and between thefe two, in the direction of South Eaft, fome fmaller ones J. In the direction of South by Eaft i Eaft, from the Eaft end of the firft ifland, a third § high ifland was feen. At times, as the fog broke away, we had the appearance of land over the fmall iflands; and I had thoughts of (leering for it, by running in between them. But, on drawing nearer, 1 found this would be a dangerous attempt, wb\\$ the weather corrjjfijied foggy. For if there fhould be no paffage, or if we fhould meet with any fud- den danger, it would have been impoffible for us to get off; the wind being right a-ftern, and a prodigious fea running, that broke on all the (hores ikw ingfetfol furf. At the fame time, feeing another ifland in the North Eaft direction, and not feaoWing but that there might be more, I judged it prudent to haul off, and wait for clearer weather, left we fhould get intangled amongft unknown lands in a*»kk fog. We did but juft weather the ifland laft mentioned. It is a high round rock, which was named ber 1773. Their pofitfbaj SelatLvely to each other, and to the adjoining eoafis of the greater land, as reprefented on the annexed Chart, bears a ftriking refemMance to Kerguelen'isfdefirleation of them; whole Ghart, however, the Public may be affured, was unknown in England till alter ours had been engraved. * This is the ifle to'wKfch Kerguelen gave the name of Cray or Crony. Befides delineating it upon his Chart, he has added a particular view of it, exa&ly correfpondtng with Captain Cook's account of it's being of confiderable height. + K erguelen called this Ifle Holland, after the name of his own fliip. Titere is aMb a particular view of it on the'French Chart. J The obfertaf ions of the Fcenchand Englifh navigators agree exactly, as to the pofitioa, of thefe fmaller iflesV ?'5": § The fttaafion of Kerguelen's Ifle ik Ghgny, as marked on his CttWV&eW it to be the third high ifland feen by Captain, Cook. Bligh's THE PACIFIC OCEAN. sg Bligh's Cap. Perhaps this is the fame that Mon- 1776. fieur de Kerguelen called the Ifle of Rendezvous W De'e™" but I know nothing that can rendezvous at it, but ^jKllfc fowls of the air ; for it is certainly inacceflible to every other animal. At eleven o'clock the weather began to clear up, and we immediately tacked, and (leered in for the land. At noon we had a pretty good obfervation, which enabled us to determine the latitude of Bligh's Cap, which is the northernmost ifland, to be 480 29' South, and its longitude 68° 40' Eaft f. We paffed it at three o'clock, Handing to the South South Eaft, with a frefh gale at Weft. Soon after we faw the land, of which we had a faint view in the morning; and at four o'clock it extended from South Eaft 4- Eaft, to South Weft by South, diftant about four miles. The left extreme, which I judged to be the Northern point of this land called, in the French Chart of the * This ifle, or rock, was the fingle point about which Captain Cook had received the leaft information at Teneriffe; and we may obferve how fagacious he was in tracing it. What he could only fpeak of as probable, a comparifbn of his Chart with that lately publifhed by Kerguelen, proves to be.certain; and if he had even read and copied what his predeceffor in the difcovery fays of it, he could fcarcely have varied his account of its fhape. Kerguelen's words are, " Ifle de Reunion, qui n'eft qu'une Roche, nous " fervoit de Rendezvous, ou de point de ralliement; & reffemble " a un coin de mire." -Y The French and Englifh agree very nearly (as might be expected) in their accounts of the latitude of this ifland; but the obfervations by which they fix its longitude, vary confiderably. The Pilot at Teneriffe made it only 64° 57' Eaft from Paris, which is about.670 16' Eaft from London; or i° 24'more Wefterly than Captain Cook's obfervations fix it. Monfieur de Pages fays it is 66° 47' Eaft from Paris, that is 69° 6' Eaft.from London, or twenty-fix miles more Eafterly than it is placed by Captain Cook. Kerguelen himfelf only fays that it is about 68° of Eaft longitude, par 68° de longitude. 2 Southern A VOYAGE TO Southern Hemifphere, Cape St. Louis *, terminated in a perpendicular rock of a confiderable j height; and the right one (near which is a detached rock) in a high indented-point +. From this point the coaft feemed to turn fhort round to the Southward ; for we could fee no land to the Weftward of the direction in which it now bore to us, but the iflands we had obferved in the morning % the moft Southerly J of them lying nearly Weft from the point, about two or three leagues diftant. About the middle of the land there appeared to be an inlet, for which we fleered; but, on approaching, found it was only a bending on the coaft, and therefore bore up, to go round Cape St. Louis §. Soon after, land opened off the * Hitherto, we have only had occafion to fupply defe&s, owing to Captain Cook's entire ignorance of Kerguelen's fecond voyage in 1773; we mutt now correct errors, owing to his very limited knowledge of the operations of the firft voyage in 1772. The Chart of the Southern Hemifphere, his only guide, having given him, as he tells us, the name of Cape St. Louis (or Cape Louis) as the moft Northerly promontory then feen by the French; and his own obfervations now fatisfying him that no part of the main land ftretched farther North than the left extreme now before him; from this fuppofed fimilarity of fituation, he judged that his own perpendicular rock muft be the Cape Louis of the firft difcoverers. By looking upon our Chart, we fhall find Cape Louis lying upon a very different part of the coaft -, and by comparing this Chart with that lately publifhed by Kerguelen, j it will appear, in the cleareit manner, that the Northern point now defcribed by Captain Cook, is the very fame to which the French have given the name of Cape Francois. f This right extreme of the coaft, as it now fhewed itfelf to Captain Cook, feems to be what is reprefented on Kerguelen's Chart under the name of Cape Aubert. It may be proper to obferve here, that all that extent of coaft lying between Cape Louis and Cape Francois, of which the French faw very little during their firft vifit in 177a, and may be called the North Weft fide of this land, they had it in their power to trace the position of in 1773, and have afligned names to fome of its bays, rivers, and promontories, upon their Chart. J Kerguelen's Ifle de Clugny. § Cape Francois, as already obferved. i Cape, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 61 Cape, in the direction of South 530 Eaft, and ap- 1796. peared to be a point at a confiderable diftance; for D"g™" the trending of the coaft from the Cape was more <■ |j|._/ Southerly. We alfo faw feveral rocks and iflands to the Eaftward of the above directions, the moft diftant of which was about feven leagues from the Cape, bearing South 88° Eaft*. We had no fooner got off the Cape, than we obferved the coaft, to the Southward, to be much indented by projecting points and bays; fo that we now made fure of foon finding a good harbour. Accordingly, we had not run a mile farther, before we difcovered one behind the Cape, into which we began to ply ; but after making one boardf. it \ fell calm, and we anchored at the entrance in forty-five fathoms water, the bottom black fand; as did the Difcovery foon after. I immediately dif- patched Mr. Bligh, the Mafter, in a boat to found the harbour ; who, on his return, reported it to be Safe and commodious, with good anchorage in every part; and great plenty of frefh water, feals, penguins, and other birds on the fhore; but not a Stick of wood. While we lay at anchor, we obferved that the flood tide came from the South Eaft, running two knots, at leaft, in an hour. At day-break, in the morning of the 25th, we Wedn.ss* weighed with a gentle breeze at Weft; and having wrought into the harbour, to within a quartet5!}? a mile of the fandy beach at its head, we anchored in eight fathoms water, the bottom a fine dark fand. The Difcovery did not get in till two o'clock in the afternoon; when Captain Gierke informed me, that he had narrowly efcaped being * The obfervations of the French, round Cape Francois, re~ niarkably coincide with Captain Cook's in this paragraph 5 and the rocks and iflands here mentioned by him, alfo appear upon their Chart. driven ■i im fS! 62 A VOYAGE TO 1776. driven on the South point of the harbour, his an- De^em" chor having darted before they had time to (horten \_^J^_) in the cable. This obliged them to fet fail, and drag the anchor after them, till they had room to heave it up ; and then they found one of its palms was broken off. As foon as we had anchored, I ordered all the boats to be hoifted out; the Ship to be moored with a kedge anchor; and the water-calks to be got ready to Send on fhore. In the mean time I landed, to look for the moft convenient Spot where they might be filled, and to See what elfe the place afforded. I found the fhore, in a manner, covered with penguins and other birds, and Seals. TheSe latter were not numerous, but So inSenfible of fear (which plainly indicated that they were unaccuftomed to fuch vifiters), that we killed as many as we chofe, for the fake of their fat or blubber, to make oil for our lamps, and other ufes. Frefh water was in no lefs plenty than were birds; Sor every gully afforded a large ft ream. But not a fingle tree or Shrub, nor the leaft Sign of any, was to be discovered, and but very little herbage of any fort. The appearances, as we Sailed into the harbour, had flattered us with the hope of meeting with fomething confiderable growing here, as we. obferved the fides of many of the hills to be of a lively green. But I now found that this was occafioned by a fingle plant, which, with the other natural productions, fhall be defcribed in another place. Before I returned to my fhip, I afcended the firft ridge of rocks, which rife in a kind of amphitheatre above one another. I was in hopes, by this means, of obtaining a view of the country ; but before I reached the top, there came on fo thick a fog, that I could hardly find my way down again. In THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 63 In the evening, we hauled the feine at the head .qg^ of the harbour, but caught only half a dozen De^m~ fmall fifh. We had no better fuccefs next day, > ,_ _ _f when we tried with hook and line. So that i&ur only refource here, for frefh provifions, were birds, of which there was an inexhauftible (lore. The morning of the 26th proved foggy, with Thurf. -.6. rain. However, we went to work to fill water, and to cut grafs for our cattle, which we found in fmall fpots near the head of the harbour. The rain which fell, fwelled.» the rivulets to fuch a degree, that the fides of the hills, bounding the harbour, feemed to be covered with a (heet of water. For the rain, as it fell, run into the fiffures and crags of the rocks that compofed the interior parts of the hills, and was precipitated down their fides in prodigious torrents. The people having wrought hard thetctwo preceding days, and nearly completed offif water, which we filled from a brook at the left corner of the beach, I allowed them the 27th as a day of Friday 27, reft, to celebrate Chriftmas. Upon this indulgence, many of them went on fhore, and made excurfions, in different directions, into the country, which they found barren and defolate in the higheft degree. In the evening, one of them brought to me a quart bottle which he had found, fattened with fome wire to a projecting rock on the North fide of the harbour. This bottle contained a piece of parchment, on which was written the following ijthef rption: A VOYAGE Wti Ludovico XV Galliarum rege, et d* de Boynes j regi a Secretis ad res maritimas annis 1772 et From this inscription, it is clear, that we were not the firft Europeans who had been in this harbour. 1 fuppofed it to be left by Monfieur de Boifguehen- neu, who went on fhore in a boat on the 13th of February 1772, the fame day that Monfieur de Kerguelen difcovered this land; as appears by a Note in the French Chart of the Southern Herni- iphere, publifhed the following year -f. As * The (d), no doubt is a contraction of the word Domino. Th§ JraSh Secretary of the Marine was then Monfieur de Boynes. + On perufing this paragraph of the Journal, itwljl be natural to afk, How could Monfieur de Boifguehenneu, in the beginning of 1772, leave an infcription, which, upon the very face of it, commemorates a tranfa&ion of the following year ? Captain Cook's manner of expreffing himfelf here, ftrongly marks, that he made this fuppofition, only for want of information to enable him to make any other. He had no idea that the French had vifited this land a fecond time; and, reduced to the neceffity of trying to accommodate what he faw himfelf, to what little he had heard of their proceedings, he confounds a tranfa&ion which we, who have been better inftructed, know, for a certainty, belongs to the fecond Voyage, with a fimilar one, which his Chart of the Southern Hemifphere has recorded, and which happened in a different year, and at a different place. The bay, indeed, in which Monfieur de Boifguehenneu landed, is upon the Weft fide of this land, confiderably to the South of Cape Louis, and not far from another more Southerly promontory, called Cape Bourbon; a part of the coaft which our fhips were not upon. Its fituation is marked upon our Chart; and a particular view of the bay du Lion Marin (for fo Boifguehenneu called it), with the foundings, is preferved by Kerguelen. But if the bottle and infcription found by Captain Cook's people, were not left here by Boifguehenneu, by whom and when were they left ? This we learn moft fatisfachwily, from the accounts of Kerguelen's fecond Voyage, as publifhed by himfelf and Monfieur de Pages, which prefent us with the following particulars; That they arrived on the Weft fide of this land on the 14th of December 1773; that, fleering to the North Eaft, they difcovered, on the 16th, the Ifle de Reunion, and the other fmall iflands as mentioned above -, that, on the 17th, they had before them THE PACIFIC OCEAN. As a memorial of our having been in this harbour, I wrote on the other fide of the parchment, them the principal land (which they were fure was connected with that feen by them on the 14th), and a high point of that land, named by them Cape Francois; that beyond this Cape, the coaft took a South Eafterly dire&ion, and behind it they found a bay, called by them Baie de I'Oifeau, from the name of their frigate; that they then endeavoured to enter it, but were prevented by contrary winds and blowing weather, which drove them off the coaft Eaftward\ but that, at laft, on the 6th of January, Monfieur de Rofnevet, Captain of the Oifeau, was able to Jfend his boat on fhore into this bay, under the command of Monfieur de Rochegude, one of his officers, who took poffeffion of that bay, and of all the country, in the name of the King of France^ •with all the requifite formalities." Here then we trace, by the moft unexceptionable evidence, the. hiftory of the bottle and infcription; the leaving of which was, no doubt, one of the requifite formalities obferved by Monfieur de Rochegude on this occafion. And though he did not land till the 6th of January 1774, yet, as Kerguelen's fhips arrived upon the coaft on the 14th of December 1773, and had difcovered andlooked into this very bay on the 17th of that month, it was with the ftricteft propriety and truth that 1773, and not- 1774, was mentioned as the date of the difcovery. We need only look at Kerguelen's and Cook's Charts, to judge that the Baie de I'Oifeau, and the harbour where the French in, fcription was found, is one and the fame place, But befides this agreement as to the general pofition, the fame conclufion. refults more decifively ftill, from another circumftance worth mentioning : The French, as well as the Englifh vifiters of this bay and harbour, have given us a particular Plan of it; and whoever (Mmpares ours, publifhed in this Volume, with that to be met with in Kerguelen's and de Page's Voyages, muft be ftruck with a refemblance that could only be produced by copying one common original with fidelity. Nay, even the foundings are the fame upon the fame fpots in both Plans, being forty-five fathoms between the two Capes, before the entrance of the bay ; fixteen fathoms farther in, where the fhores begin to contract; and eigh? fathoms up, near the bottom of .the harbour. To thefe particulars, which throw abundant light on this part of our Author's Journal, I fhall only add, that the diftance of our harbour from that where Boifguehenneu landed in 1772, is forty leagues. For this we have the authority of Kerguelen, in tho following paffage : " Monfieur de Boifguehenneu defcendit le 13 " de Fevrier 1772, dans un Baie, qu'il nomme Baie du Lion I Marin, & prit pofl'effion de cetteterre au nom de Roi ; il n'y " vit aucune trace d'habitants, Monfieur de Rochegude, en " 1774, a defcendu dans un autre baie, que nous avons nomme " Baie de I'Oifeau, & cette feconde rade eft a quarantes lieues de " la premiere. II en a egalement pris pqffeflion, & il n'y trouva *' egalement aucune trace d'habitants." Kerguelen, p. 92. Vol. I. F ' Naves 66 AVOYAGETO milk Naves Rofolution Debc,er et Difcovery u.^-o de Rege Magna Britannia. Decembris 1776. I then put it again into a bottle, together with a Silver two-penny piece of 1772 ; and having covered the mouth of the bottle with a leaden cap, I Satur. 28. placed it, the next morning, in a pile of ftones erected for the purpofe, upon a little eminence #ri the North Shore of the harbour, and near to the place where it was firft found; in which pofition it cannot eScape the notice of any European, whom chance or defign may bring into this port. Here I difplayed the Britifli flag, and named the place Chriftmas Harbour, from our having arrived in it on that festival, It is the firft, or northernmost inlet that we meet with on the South Eaft fide of Cape St. Louis *, which forms the North fide of the harbour, and is alfo the Northern point of this land. The fituation alone is fufficient to distinguish it from any of the other inlets; and, to make it more semarkable, its South point terminates in a high rock, which is perforated quite through, fo as to appear like the arch of a bridge. We faw none like this upon the . whole coaft |. The harbour has another distinguishing mark within, from a fingle (lone or rock, of *.Cape Francois, for reafons already afligned. + If there could be the leaft doubt remaining of the identity of the Bale de I'Oifeau, and Chriftmas harbour, the circumftance of the perforated rock, which divides it from another bay to the South, would amount to a ftrict. demonftration. For Monfieur de Pages had obferved this difcriminating mark before Captain Cook. His words are as follows : " L'on vit que la cote de l'Eft, " voifine du Cap Francois, avoit deux baies ; elles etoient fepa- " rees par une pointe tres reconnoiffable par fa forme, qui repre- " fentoit une parte cochere, au trovers de laquelle ton voyoit le " jour" Voyages du M. de Pages, Vol. ii. p. 67. Every one knows how exactly the form of a port.e cochere, or arched gateway, correfpondsl THE PACIFIC OCEAN. of a.vaft fize, which lies on the top of a hill on the South fide, near its bottom; and oppofite.riib | on the North fide, there is another hifl,;:much like v. it, but fmaller. There is a fmall beach at its bottom, where we commonly landed; and, behind it, fome gently rifing ground; on the top of which is a large pool of frefh water. The land on both fides of the inlet is high, and it runs in Weft, and Weft North Weft, about two miles. Its breadth is one mile and a quarter, for more than half its length; above which, it is only half a mile. The depth of water, which is forty-five fathoms at the entrance, varies, as we proceed farther in, from thirty, to five and four fathoms, as marked upon the Plan. The fhores are deep; and the bottom is every where a fine dark fand, except in fome places clofe to the fhore, where there are beds of fea-weed, which always grows on rocky ground. The head of the harbour lies open only to.jWjQ points of the compafs; and even thefe are covered by iflands in the offing, fo that no fea can fall in to hurt a (hip. The appearances on fhore confirmed this ; for we found grafs growing clofe to high-water mark, which is a Sure Sign of a pacific harbour*. it correfponds with that of the arch of a bridge. It is very fatis- factory to find the two navigators, neither of whom knew any thing of the other's defcription, adopting the fame idea } Jgp|g-; both proves that they had the fame uncommon object before their eyes, and that they made an accurate report. . * In the laft Note, we faw how remarkably Monfieur de Pages and Captain Cook agree about the appearance of the South Point .of the harbour ; I fhall here fubjoin another quotation from the former, containing his account of the harbour itfelf, in which the Reader may trace the fame diftinguifhing features obferved by Captain Cook in the foregoing paragraph. I Le 6, l'on mit a terre dans la premiere baie a 1'Eft du Cap "Francois, & l'on prrt poffeffion de ces contrees. Cemouillage " confifte en un petite rade, qui a environs quatres encablures, <l ou quatre cents toifesde profondeur, fur un tiers en fus de Iar~ Fa " geur. gg AVOYAGETO i776. It is high water here, at the full and change days, Decern- about ten o'clock ; and the tide riSes and falls about v.- I^jfour feet. After I had finifhed this bufinefs of the infcription, I went in my boat round the harbour, and landed in feveral places, to examine what the fhore afforded ; and, particularly, to look for drift wood. For, although the land here was totally deftitute of trees, this might not be the cafe in other parts; and if there were any, the torrents would force Some, or, at leaft, Some branches, into the Sea, which would afterward throw them upon the fhores; as jn all other countries where there is wood, and in many where there is none I but, throughout the whole extent of the harbour, I found not a fingle piece. In the afternoon, I went Upon Cape St. Louis *, accompanied by Mr. King, my Second Lieute- . 'riant. I was in hopes, from this elevation, to have had a view of the fea-coaft, and of the iflands lying off it, But, when I got up, I found every diftant object below me hid in a thick fog. The land on ,the fame plain, or of a greater height, was vifible enough, and appeared naked and deSolate in. " geuE. En dedans de cette rade eft un petit port, dont Fen- " tree, de quatres encablures de largeur, prefente au Sud-Eft. " La fonde de la petite rade eft depuis quarante-cinq jufqu'a " trente braffes; & celle du port depuis feize jufqu'a huit. Le " fonddes deux eft de fablenoir & vafeux. La cote des deux *' bords eft haute, & par une pente tres rude; elle eft couverte ■ " de verdure, & il y a une quantite prodigieufe d'Outardes. Le Sl fond du port eft occupe par un monticule qui laiffe entre lui, " & la mer une plage'de fable. Une petite riviere, de tres " bonne eau, coule a la mer dans cet endroit; & elle eft fournie " par un lac qui eft un peu au loin, au deffus du monticule. II " yavoit fur le plage beaucoup de pinguoins & de lions marins. " Ces deux efpeces d'animaux ne fuyoient pas, & Ton augura " que le pays n'etoit point habite; la terre rapportoit de l'herbe " large, noire, & bieri nourrie, qui n'avoit cependant que cinque *' pouces ou plus de hauteur. L'on ne vit aucun arbre, ni figne •' d'habitation." Voyage du Monfieur de Pages, Tom. ii. p. 69,70, • Cape Franjois. the J THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 69 the higheft degree; except fome hills to the South- rBjfr- - ward, which were covered with Snow. Decem- When I got on board^lound the launch hoifted ^^J^j in, the Ships unmoored, and ready to put tojUiSundays?. but our Sailing was deferred till five o'clock the next morning, when we weighed anchor. CHAP. A VOYAGE TO CHAP. V. Departure from Chriftmas Harbour.—Range along the Coaft, to difcover its Pofuion and Extent.— Several Promontories and Bays, and a Peninfula, defer ibed and named. — Danger from Shoals. — Another Harbour and a Sound.—Mr. Anderfon's Obfervations on the natural Produtlions, Animals, Soil, &rV. of Kerguelen's Land. J776. A S foon as the fhips were out of Chriftmas Decern- £\ Harbour, we (leered South Eaft 4. South, v^^l^ along the coaft, with a fine breeze at North North Sundayzo. Weft, and clear weather. This we thought the more fortunate, as, for fome time paft, fogs had prevailed, more or lefs, every day ; and the continuance of them would have defeated our plan of extending Kerguelen's difcovery. We kept the lead constantly going; but feldom ftruck ground with a line of fifty or Sixty Sathoms. About Seven or eight o'clock, we were off a promontory, which I called Cape Cumberland. It lies a league and a half from the South point of Chriftmas Harbour, in the direction of South Eaft 4. South. Between them is a bay with two arms, both of which feemed to afford good (helter for Shipping. Off Cape Cumberland is a fmall but pretty high ifland, on the fummit of which is a rockdike^fentry-box, which occafioned our giving that tiame to the ifland. Two miles farther to the Eaftward, lies a groupe of fmall iflands and THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 71 and rocks, with broken ground about them ; we 1776. failed between thefe and Sentry-Box Ifland, the De^™" channel being a full mile broad, and more thanv—y-^j forty fathoms deep ; for we found no bottom with that length of line. Being through this channel, we difcovered, on the South fide of Cape Cumberland, a bay, running in three leagues to the Weftward. It is formed by this Cape to the North, and by a promontory to the South, which I named Point Pringle, after my good friend Sir John Pringle, Prefident of the Royal Society. The bottom of this bay was called Cumberland Bay; and it feemed to be disjoined from the fea, which.wafhes the North Weft coaft of this country, by a narrow neck of land. Appearances, at leaft, favoured fuch a conjecture. To the Southward of Point Pringle, the coaft is formed into a fifth bay ; of which this point is the Northern extreme; and from it, to the Southern extreme, is about four miles in the direction of South South Eaft ~ Eaft. In this bay, which-obtained the Name of White Bay, on account of fome white fpots of land or rocks in the bottom? of it, are feveral leffer bays or coves, which feemed to be fheltered from all winds. Off the South point, are feveral rocks which raife their head's* above water; and, probably, many more that do not. Thus far our eourfe was in a direction parallel to the coaft, and not more than two miles from it. Thither our glaffes were continually pointed; and we could eafily fee that, except the bottoms of the bays and coves, which, for the moft part, terminated in Sandy beaches, the fhores were rocky, and, in many places, fwarmed with birds; but the ceuntry had the fame barren and nakecT appear- 7* A VOYAGE TO 1776. appearance as in the neighbourhood of Chriftmas Decern- Harbour. w-v^-j We had kept on °ur larboard bow, the land which firft opened off Cape St. Louis *, in the direction of South 530 Eaft, thinking that it was an ifland, and that we fhould find a paffage be* tween it and the main. We now difcovered this to be a miftake; and found that it was a penin- fula, joined to the reft of the coaft by a low isthmus. I called the bay, formed by this peninfula, Repulfe Bay; and a branch of it feemed to run a good way inland towards the South South Weft. Leaving this, we fleered for the Northern point of the Peninfula, which we named Howe's Foreland, in honour of Admiral Lord Howe. As we drew near if, we perceived fome rocks and breakers near the North Weft part; and two iflands a league and a half to the Eaftward of it, which, at firft, appeared as one. I fleered between them and the Foreland f, and was in the middle of the channel by noon. At that time our latitude, by obfervation, was 48° 51' South, and we had made twenty fix miles of Eaft longitude from Cape St. Louis J. From this fituation, the moft advanced land to the Southward bore South Eaft; but the trending of the coaft from the Foreland was more Southerly. The iflands which lie off Chriftmas Harbour * Cape Franyois, + Though Kerguelen's fhips, in 1773, did plore this part of the coaft, Mo t of it de Pages's anfwers well to Captain Cook's. " Du 17 au 23, ion ne prit. " d'autre connoiffance que celle de la figure de la cote, qui, « courant d'abord au Sud-Eft, & revenant enfuite au Nbrd-Eft, M formoit un grand golfe. II etoit occupe par des brifans & des " rochers; ilavoit auffi nne ifle baffe, & affez etendue, & l'on «« ufa d'une bien foigneufe precaution, pour ne pas s'affaler dans <* ce golfe." Voyage du M. de Page's> Tom, ii- p. 67. J Cape Franyois. 1 bore THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 73 bore North ; and the North point of the Foreland, 1776. North 6o° Weft, diftant three miles. The land of D^m" this Peninfula, or Foreland, is of a moderate height, v__^_ and of a hilly and rocky Subftance. The coaft is low, with rocky points (hooting out from it; between which points are little coves, with Sandy beaches; and thefe, at this time, were moftly covered with fea birds. We alfo Saw upon them Some Seals. As Soon as we were clear of the rocks and iflands before mentioned, I gave orders to fleer South Eaft by South, along the coaft. But before thefe orders could be carried into execution, we discovered the whole Sea before us to be chequered with large beds of rock-weed, which we knew to be faft to the bottom, and to grow on rocky fhoals. I had often found a great depth of water on Such Shoals; and I had, as often, found rocks that have raifed their heads nearly to the furface of the water, lt is always dangerous, therefore, to Sail over them before they are well examined; but more efpecially, when there is no furge of the fea to difcover the danger. This was the cafe at prefent, for the fea was as fmooth as a mill-pond. Consequently we endeavoured to avoid them, by (leering through the winding channels by which they were feparated. We kept the lead continually going; but never ftruck ground with a line of fixty fathoms. This circumftance increaSed the danger, as we could not anchor, whatever neceflity there might be for it. After running in this manner above an hour, we difcovered a lurking rock, juft even with the furface of the Sea. It bore North Eaft 4- Eaft, diftant three or four miles, and lay in the middle of one of thefe large beds of weeds. This was a fufficient warning to make us ufe every precaution to prevent our coming upon them. We ft AVOYAGETO 1776. We were now crofs the mouth of a large bay* Decern- tnaj; i}es aD0Ut eight miles to the Southward of v^—J^j Howe's Foreland. In and before the entrance of this bay are feveral low iflands, rocks, and thofe beds of fea-Weed. But there feemed to be winding channels between them. After continuing our eourfe half an hour longer, we were fo much embarraffed with thefe fhoals, that I refolved to haul off to the Eaftward, as the likelieft means of extricating ourfelves from the danger that threatened us. But fo far was this from anfwer- ingr the intended purpofe, that it brought us into more. I therefore found it abfolutetyneceffary to Secure the (hips,, if poflible, in fome place before night; efpecially as the weather had now become h$£?p,> and a fog was apprehended; And feeing fome infers to the SotJth Weft of us,. I ordered Captain Clerke, as the Difcovery drew? left* wa*e¥ tba*v the Refolutabnv to lead in for the^fhote; which \toas accordingly done. Ih (landing in, it was not poflible to avoid run- Hing. over the edges of fome of the (hoals, on which we found filbm ten to twenty fathoms water ; and the m®mtnt we were over, had no ground at the depth of fifty fathoms. After making a few boards to weather a fpit that run out from an ifland on our lee,. Captain Clerke made the fignal for having discovered an harbour; in which, about five o'cloeky we anchored in fifteen fathoms water, over a bottom of fine dark fand, about:th8f8 quarters.of a mile from the fhore; the North point of the harbour bearing North by Eaft 4- Eaft, one mile diftant; and the fmall iflands in the entr#n<§$* within which we anchored, extending from Eaft to South Eaft. Scarcely were the fhips fecured, when it began to blow very Strong; So that we thought it prudent to Strike top gallant yards. The weather, 2 however, THE. PACIFIC OCEAN. l#>we:Vsjs,. cgratinued fair; and the wind difperfing tfti$ fog that had fettled on the hills, it was tole- I rably clear alfo. The moment, therefore, we had v_ anpjjgijed, I hoifted out two boats; in one of i$jj$h "I -(gn^Mr. ?ligh, the Mjafter, to furvey the i|igpff*part of the harbour, and look for wood; 1$$- not a fhrub was to be feen from the fhip. I alfo defired Captain Clerke to fend his Mafter to found the channel that is on the jSouth fide of the Small; ifles, between them and a pretty large yiftBdi which lies near the South point of the harbour. Having giy&n thefe directions, 1 went my- fe-lf, in my other boat, accompanied by Mr. Gore, W fi^fife Lieutenant, and Mr. Baily, and landed on the North point, to fee what I could difcover from thence. From the higfreft- hill over the point, we had a pretty good view of the Sea-coaft, as far as Howe's Foreland;.. It i&ijftach indented, and Several rocky jUQJnt.S;; Sesrngd to (hoot out frpm it, with coves $rid£ injetsjc©£ unequal extent. One of the latter, t^gisgdi of which f could not See, was disjoined from, that in which the fhips were at anchor, by. the point we then Stood; upon. A great many. ferj-a^l iflands, rocks, and breakers appeared Scattered along the coaft, as well to the,Southward as Northward; and I faw no better channel to get out of the harbour, than by the.one through which we had entered it. While Mr. Baily and-1. were making the observations, Mr. Gore; e.ncompaffed the hill; and joined us by a different route, at the place where I had ojftejed the boat to wait for us. Except the craggy precipices, we met with nothing to obftruct our walk. For the country was, if pof- fible, more barren and deSolate than about Chriftmas HarJa^ur, And yet, if there be the leaft fertility ?6 A VOYAGE TO \ \-ft6. fertility in any part of this land, we ought to Dberm" ^ave r°unc* ^ -n this, which is completely fhel- ijteiey^^tered from the predominating bleak Southerly and Wefterly winds. I obferved, with regret, that there was neither food nor covering for cattle of any fort; and that, if I left any, they muft inevitably perifh. In the little cove where the boat waited for us (which I called Penguin Cove, as the bea(% was covered with thefe birds), is a fine rivulet of frefh water, that may be eafily come at. Here were alSo Some large Seals, Shags* and a few ducks; and Mr. Baily had a tranfient fight of a very fmall land bird; but it flew amongft the rocks, and we loft it. About nine o'clock we got on board. Soon after, Mr. Bligh returned, and reported, that he had been four miles up the harbour, and* as he judged, not far from the head of it. He JBiKid that its direction was Weft South Weft s and that its breadth, a little above the fhips, did not exceed a mile; but grew narrower towards the head. The foundings were very irregular,, being from thirty-feven to ten fathoms; and, except under the beds of fea-weed, which in many places extended from the fhore near half channel over, the bottom was a fine fand. He landed on both fhores, which he found barren and rocky, without the leaft figns of tree or Shrub, and with very little verdure of any kind. Penguins, and other oceanic birds and Seals, occupied part of the coaft; but not in fuch numbers as at Chriftmas Harbour. Finding no encouragement to continue our Mend. 30. refearches, and, the next morning, both wind and weather being favourable, I weighed anchor and put to fea. To this harbour I gave the name of Port Pallifer, in honour of my worthy friend Admiral THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Admiral Sir Hugh Pallifer. It is fituated in the latitude of 49° 3' South, in the longitude of 69° 3 of Eaft, and five leagues from Howe's Foreland, s. in the direction of South 250 Eaft. There are feveral iflands, rocks, and breakers lying in and without the entrance, for which the annexed Chart of the coaft, and (ketch of the harbour may be eonfulted. We went in and out between them and the North head; but I have no doubt that there are other channels. As we were (landing out of Port Pallifer, we difcovered a round hill, like a fugar-loaf, in the direction of South 72° Eaft, about nine leagues diftant. It had the appearance of an ifland lying at fome diftance from the coaft; but we afterwards found it was upon the main land. In getting out to fea, we had to fleer through the winding channels amongft the fhoals. However, we ventured to run over fome of them, on which we never found lefs than eighteen fathoms, and often did not Strike ground with twenty-four; fo that, had it not been for the Sea-weed growing upon all of them, they would not have been discovered. After we had got about three or four leagues from the coaft, we found a clear fea, and then Steered Eaft till nine o'clock, when the Sugar Loaf hill, above mentioned, which I named Mount Campbell, bore South Eaft, and a fmall ifland that lies to the Northward of it, South South Eaft, diftant four leagues. I now (leered more Southerly, in order to get in with the land. At noon, the latitude by double altitudes was 49° 8' South ; and we had made eighty miles of Eaft longitude from Cape St. Louis *. Mount Campbell bore South 470 Weft, diftant about four leagues- a low point, beyond which no land was to be Seen, * Cape Franjois, bore J A VOYAGE TO bore South South Eaft, at the diftance of about twenty miles; and we were about two leagues j from the fhore. The land here is low and level *. The mountains ending about five leagues from the low point*, a great extent of low land is left, on which Mount Campbell is fituated, about four miles from the foot of the mountains, and one from the fea coaft. Thefe mountains have a confiderable elevation, as alfo moft of the inland ones. They feemed to be compofed of naked rocks, whofe fummits were capt with Snow. Nor did the valleys appear to greater advantage. To whatever quarter we directed our glaifes, nothing but Sterility was to be Seen. We had Scarcely finifhed taking the bearings at noon, before we obferved low land opening off the low point juft mentioned, in the direction of South South Eaft, and eight miles beyond it. This new point proved to be the very Eaftern extremity of this land, and it was named Cape Digby. It is fituated in the latitude of 490 23' South, and in the longitude of 700 34' Eaft. Between Howe's Foreland and Cape Digby, the fhore forms (befides the feveral leffer bays and harbours) one great bay that extends feveral leagues to the South Weft, where it feemed to lofe itfelf hi various arms running in between the mountains. A prodigious quantity of Sea-weed grows ail over it, which Seemed to be the Same Sort of weed that Mr. Banks diftinguifhed by the name * This part of the coaft feems to be_what the French faw on the 5th of January 1774. Monfieur de Pages fpeaks of it thus : " Nona reXdMiOmes une noweile cote etendue de toute veu dans y TEtt, & dans le Oueft. Les terres de cette cote etoient moins " Etoient auffi d'un afpeft moins rude." De Pages, Tom. ii. p. 68. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. -79 ©f fucus giganteus *. Some ofyte,. weed is of a 1116. moft enormous length, though the ftem is not Wmm much thicker than a man's thumb. I have menti- ■,_,■ vA_j oned, that on fome of the Shoals upon which it grows, we did not Strike ground with a line£$f twenty-four fathoms. The depth of water, therefore, muft have been greater. And as this weed does not grow in a perpendicular direction, but makes a very acute angle with the bottom, and much of it afterwards fpreads many fathoms on the furface of the fea, I am well warranted to fay, that fome of it grows to the length of fixty fathoms and upward. At one o'clock (having run two leagues upon a South Eaft 4 Eaft eourfe, from noon) we founded, and found eighteen fathoms water, and a bottom of fine fand. Seeing a fmall bending in the coaft, on the North fide of Cape Digby, I fleered for it. It was my intention to anchor there, if I fhould find it might be done with fafety, arid to land on the Cape, to examine what the low land within it produced. After running in one league, we founded again, and found thirteen fathoms; and immediately after, faw a (hoal right before us, that feemed to extend off from the fhore, from which we were diftant about two miles. This difcovery obliged us to haul off, Eaft by South, one league, where our depth of water encreafed to twenty-five fathoms. We then (leered along fhore, and continued in the fame depth, over a bottom of fine fand, till Cape Digby bore Wed, two leagues diftant, when we found twenty-fix fathoms. After this we did not (trike ground, though we tried feveral times; but the fhip having a # See Hawkefworth's Collection of Voyages, Vol. ii. p. 42. good 8o A. VOYAGE TO 1776. good deal of way, ran the line out before the lead Decern- C0UId reach the bottom; and being difappointed (.^^^j in my views both of anchoring and of landing, I would not Shorten Sail, but pufhed forward, in order to fee as much of the coaft as poflible before night. From Cape Digby, it trends nearly South Weft by South for about four or five leagues, or to a low point, to which, in honour of her Majefty, I gave the name of Point Charlotte, and it is the Southernmoft on the low coaft. Six leagues from Cape Digby, in the direction of South South Weft I Weft, is a pretty high projecting point, which was called Prince of Wales's Foreland; and fix leagues beyond that, in the fame direction, and in the latitude of 490 54'South, and the longitude of 700 13' Eaft, is the moft Southerly point of the whole coaft, which I diftinguifhed by the name of Cape George, in honour of his Majefty. Between Point Charlotte and Prince of Wales's Foreland, where the country to the South Weft began again to be hilly, is a deep inlet, which was called Royal Sound. It runs in Weft, quite to the foot of the mountains which bound it on the South Weft, as the low land before-mentioned does on the North. There are iflands lying m the entrance, and others higher up, as far as we eould diflinguifh. As we advanced to the South, we obferved, on the South Weft fide of Prince of Wales's Foreland, another inlet into Royal Sound I and it then appeared, that the Foreland was the Eaft poiitt^of a large ifland lying in the mouth of it. There are feveral fmall iflands in this inlet 1 and one about a league to the Southward of Prince of Wales's Foreland. Ail the land on the South .Wj|ft fide of Royal Sound, quite to Cape George, is compofed of elevated hills, that rife directly from the Sea, one behind THE PACIFIC OCEAN. behind another, to a confiderable height. Moft of the Summits were capt with Snow, and they ap- ] peared as naked and barren as any we had Seen.»_ The Smalleft veftige of a tree or fhrub was not discoverable, either inland or on the coaft; and, I think, I may venture to pronounce that the country produces none. The low land about Cape Digby, when examined through our glafles, re- fembled the reft of the low land we had before met with; that is, it appeared to be partly naked and partly covered with a green turf; a defcription of which fhall be given in its proper place. The Shore is compoSed of Sandy beaches, on which were many penguins, and. other oceanic birds; and an immenSe number of (hags kept perpetually flying about the Ships as we failed along. Being defirous of getting the length of Cape George, to be affured whether or no it v/as the moft Southerly point of the whole land, I continued to ftretch to the South, under all the fail we could carry, till half an hour paft fe\i>tio'clock; when, feeing no likelihood of accomplishing my defign, as the wind had, by this time, Shifted to Weft South Weft, the very direction in which we wanted to go, I took the advantage of the Shifting of the wind, and flood away from the coaft. At this time Cape George bore South 530 Weft, diftant about Seven leagues. A fmall ifland that lies off the pitch of the Cape, was the only land we could fee to the South of it; and we were farther confirmed that there was no more in that quarter, by a South Weft fwell which we met as foon as we brought the Cape to bare in this direction. But we have ftill a ftronger proof that no part of this land can extend much, if at all, to the Southward of Cape George; and that is, Captain Fur- neaux's tract; in February 1773, after his fepara- V$ql. I." ' G tion A VOYAGE TO tion from me during my late voyage. His logbook is now lying before roe; and I find from it, j that he croffed the meridian of this land only about Seventeen leagues to the Southward of Cape George; a diftance at which it may very veil be Seen in clear weather. This feems to have been the caSe when Captain Furneaux paffed it. For his log-book makes no mention of fogs or hazy weather; on the contrary, it exprefsly tells us, that, when ia this fituation, they had it in their power to make obfervations, both for latitude and longitude, on board his Ship; (b that, if this land extends farther South than Cape George, it would have been fcarcely poflible that he Should have paffed without feeing it. From thefe circumftances we are able to determine, within a very few miles, the quantity of latitude that this land occupies^which-does not much exceed one degree and a quarter. As to its extent from Eaft to Weft, that ftill remains undecided. We only know, that no part of it can reach (o far to the Weft as the meridian oS 650; becauSe, in 1773, under that meridian, I Searched for it in vain *. The French difcoverers, with fome reafon, imagined Cape St. Louis-f to be the projecting point of * If the French obfervations, as marked upon Captain Cook's Chart, and ftill more authentically upon that publifhed by their own difcoverers, may be depended upon, this land doth not reach fo far to the Weft as the meridian of 68°; Cape Louis, which is reprefented as its moft Wefterly point, being laid down by them to the Eaft of that meridian. ■^ the idea of Cape Louis being this projecting point of a Southern continent, muft have foon vanifhed, as Cape Franjois, within a year after, was found, by the fame difcoverer, to lie above one third of a degree farther North upon the fame land. But if* Kerguelen entertained any fuch imagination at firft, we are lure that, at prefent, he thinks very differently. This appears from the following explicit declaration of his fentiments, which, deferves to be tranferibed from his late publication, as it does equal . honour THE PACIFIC OCEAN. *3 •f a Southern continent. The Englifh have fince in&- proved that no Such continent exifts; and that the Bf^a~ land in queftion is an ifland of no great extent * ; t—-v——i which, from its Sterility, I Should, with great pro- priery, call the Ifland of DeSolation, but that I would not rob Monfieur de Kerguelen of the ho- nour of its bearing his name f. honour to his candour, and to Captain Cook's abilities. " La " terre que j*ai decouverte eft certainement une Ifle; puifque le " celebre Capitaine Cook a paffe au Sud, lors de fon premiere " voyage, fans rien rencontrer. Je juge meme, que cette ifle 3^9* " pas Hen grande. 11 y a auffi apparence, d'apres le Voyage de " Monfieur Cook, que toute cede etendue de Mere Meridionales, " eft femee d'lfles ou de rochers ; mais qu'il n'y a ni continent ni " grande i'erre." Kerguelen, p. 9a. * Kerguelen, as we fee in the laft Note, concurs with Captain Cook as to this. However, he tells us, that he has reafon to believe that it is about two hundred leagues in circuit; and that he was acquainted with about fourfcore leagues of its coaft. " J'en ** connois environs quatre-vingt lieues des cotes ; & ^ai lieu de " croire, qu'elle a environ deux cents lieues de circuit." Kerguelen, ibid, + Some of Monfieur de Kerguelen's ow more defirous than we are, to rob him of thi remarkable that Monfieur de Pages never name of his commander. And, though hie t; merate the feveral French explorers of the Southern from Gonnerille down to Crozet, he affecls to prefer filence about Kerguelen, whofe firft voyage, in which the difcovery of this confiderable tract of land was made, is kept as much out of fight, as if it .never had taken place. Nay, not fatisfied with refufing to acknowledge the right of another, he almoft af- fumes it to himfelf. For upon a Map of the World, annexed to his book, at the fpot where the new land is delineated, we read this infcription: Ifles nouvelles Auftrales twees far Monfieur de Pages, en 1774. Be could fcarcely have expreffed himfelf in ftronger terms, if he had meant to convey an idea that he was the conductor of the difcovery. And yet we know, that he was only a Lieutenant [Enfeigne de vaiffeau] on board one of the three Dountrymen feem onour. It is very ace mentions the s occafion to enu- aifphere, had begun. He difcovered a new land indeed; but, in two expeditions to it, he couid not once bring his fhips to an rnchor upon any part of its coafts. Captain Cook, as we have feen in this, and in the foregoing Chapter, had either fewer difficulties to firnggle with, or was more fuccsfsful in furmoundng them. G 2 Mr. A VOYAGE TO Mr, Anderfon, my Surgeon, who, as I have already mentioned, had made Natural Hiftory a part j of his ftudies, loft no opportunity, during the fhort time we lay in Chriftmas Harbour, of fearehing the country in every direction. He afterwards communicated to me the observations he made on its natural productions; and I Shall infert thera here in his own words. ** Perhaps no place, hitherto difcovered in either hemisphere, under the Same parallel of latitude, affords fo fcanty a field for the naturalift as this barren fpot. The verdure which appears, when at a little diftance from the Shore, would flatter one with the expectation of meeting with fome herbage; but in this we were much deceived. For on landing, we Saw that this lively colour was occafioned only by one Small plant, not much unlike feme Sorts offaxifrage, which grows in large Spreading tufts, to a confiderable way up the hillst It forms a furface of a pretty large texture, and grows on a kind of rotten turf, into which one finks a foot or two at every ftep. This turf, dried, might, in cafes of neceffity, ferve for fuel, and is the only thing we met with here that could poffibly be applied to this ufe. There is another plant, plentifully enough feat- tered about the boggy declivities, which grows to near the height of two feet, and not much unlike a fmall cabbage,, when it has (hot intofeedsi The leaves about the root are numerous, large, and rounded; narrower at the bafe, and ending in a fmall point. Thofe on the ftalks are much fmaller, oblong, and pointed. The ftalks, which are often three or four, all rife feparately from the root, and run into long cylindrical heads, compofed of fmall flowers. It has not only the 2 appearance, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 8$ appearance, but the watery acrid tafte of the an- 1776. tifcorbutic plants, and yet differs materially from Df"5nv" the whole tribe ; fo that we looked upon it as a ^^H|l production entirely peculiar to the place. We eat it frequently raw,, and found it almoft like the New Zealand feurvy-grafs. But it feemed to acquire a rank flavour by being boiled.; which, however, fome of our people did not perceive, and efteemed it good. If it could be introduced into our kitchen gardens, it would in all probability, improve fo far by cultivation, as to be an excellent pot-herb. At this time, none of its feeds were ripe enough to be preferved, and brought home, to try the experiment. Two other fmall plants were found near the brooks and boggy places, which were eaten as fallad; the one almoft like garden creffes, and very fiery; and the other very mild. This laft, though but Small, is in itfelf a curiofity; having not only male and female, but what the botanifts call androgynous plants. A coarfe grafs, which we cut down for the cattle, grows pretty plentifully in a few fmall fpots about the fides of the harbour, with a fmaller fort which is rarer; and, upon the flat ground, a Sort of goofe-grafs, and another Small plant much like jr. In fhort, the whole catalogue of plants does not exceed Sixteen or eighteen, including Some Sorts of mofs, and a beautiful Species of lichen, which grows upon the rocks, higher up than the reft of the vegetable productions. Nor is there even the leaft appearance of a fhrub in the whole country. Nature has rather been more bountiful in furnishing it with animals; though, Strictly Speaking, they are not inhabitants of the place, being all of the marine kind ; and, in general, only ufing A VOYAGE TO ufing the land for breeding, and for a refting- place. The mod confiderable are feals, or (as we j ufed to call them) Sea bears; being that Sort called the urfine Seal. TheSe come afhore to reft or breed; but they were not very numerous, which is not to be wondered at, as it is known that thefe animals rather frequent out-rocks, and little iflands lying off coafts, than bays or inlets. They were, at this time, Shedding their hair, and fo tame, that we killed what number we chofe. No other quadruped, either of the fea or of the land kind, was feen; but a great number of birds, viz. ducks, petrels, albatrofies, (hags, gulls, and fea-fwallows. The ducks are about the fize of a teal or widgeon ; but fome what different in colour from either. They were in tolerable plenty about the fides of the hills, or'even lower; and we killed a confiderable number, which were good, and without the leaft fiShy tafte. We met with feme of the fame fort at the ifland of Georgia, in our late voyage. . The Cape petrel, or Pintado bird; the Small blue one, which is always feen at fea; and the fmall black one, or Mother Carey's Chicken, are not here in great numbers. But we found a neft of the firft with an egg in it, about the fize of a pullet's; and the fecond, though Scarce* waj?. met with in fome holes like rabbit-burrows. Another fort, which is the largeft of all the petrels, and called by the feamen Mother-Carey's, Goofe, is in greater numbers; and (6 tame, that af'i&rft we could kill them with a ftick upon the beach. They are not inferior in fize to an alba- troSs, and are carnivorous, feeding on the dead carcafles of feals or birds that were thrown into the fea. Their colour is a futty brown, with a sreenifh THE PACIFIC OCEAN. greenifh bill and feet; and, doubtlefe, they are the/fame that the Spaniards call quebrantabuejfos, ] whdfe head is figured in Pernetty's Voyage to Falk- y land Iflands. Of the albatrofies, none were found on fhore except the grey one, which is commonly met with at fea in the higher Southern latitudes. Once I faw one of thefe fitting in the cliff of a rock, bmt they were frequently flying about the har- bBtJf) and the common large fort, as well as a fffialle'r With a black face, were feen farther out. Penguins form, by far, the greateft number of birds here; and are of three forts: The firft, or largeft, I have feen formerly at the ifland of Georgia f. It is alfo mentioned by Bougainville J; bXfPit does not feem to be fo folitary as he represents it, for we found confiderable numbers flocking together. The head is black, the upper part of the body a leaden grey, and the under part white, with black feet, it has two broad Stripes of fine yellow, that begin on the fides of the head, and defcending by each fide of the neck, meet above its bread. The bill is partly reddifh, and longer than in the other forts. The Second Sort of penguin Scarcely exceeds half the fize of the former. The upper part of the body is a blackifh grey, with a white fpot on the upper part of the head, growing broader at each fide. The bill and feet are yellowifh. A very accurate figure and defcription, both of this and of the preceding, is given by Mr. Sonnerat§. + Pennant's Patagonian penguin. Tab. h- P- 66. 1 yoyage autour du Monde, p. 69. % Voyage a la Nouvelle Guinie, p. gj See his Genera of Birds, The S8 .A VOYAGE TO. . t7^. The third fort of penguin met with here, had Decern- never been feen by any of us before. Its length ^..^l^is twenty-four inches, and its breadth twenty. The upper part of the body and throat are black; the reft white, except the upper part of the head, which has a fine yellow arch, looking backward, and ending on each fide in long Soft feathers, which it can eredt. as two crefts. The two firft forts were found together on the beach ; the large ones keeping by themfelves, and walking in fmall flocks amongft the others, which were more numerous, and were fometimes feen a confiderable way up the fides of the hills. The third fort were only found by themfelves, but in great numbers, on the outer Shores of the harbour. They were breeding at this time ; and they lay, on the bare (tones, only one white egg, larger than that of a duck.' All the three forts of penguins were fo tame, that we took as many as we pleaSed with our hands. The Shags of this place are of two forts; the leffer corvorant or water crow, and another, which is black above, with a white belly; the fame that is found in New Zealand, Terra del Fuego, and the ifland of Georgia. We alfo met with here the common fea-gull, fea-fwallow, tern, and Port Egmont hen; the laft of which were tame and numerous. Another fort of white bird, flocks of which flew about the bay, is very Angular; having the baSe of the bill covered with a horny cruft *. It is larger than a pigeon, with the bill black and the feet white, made like thoSe of a curlew. # The fheath-bill. See Pennant's Genera of Birds, p. 43. Some THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Some of our people put it in competition with the duck, as food. * The feine was hauled once ; but we found only ^ a few fifh about the fize of a fmall haddock ; though quite different from any we knew. The fnout is lengthened; the head armed with fome Strong Spines; the rays of the back-fin long, and very ftrong; the belly is large; and the body without Scales. The only (help fifh are a Sew limpets and muffles; and, amongft the (tones, a few fmall (tar-fifh, and fea-anemonies, were found. The hills are of a moderate height; yet many of their tops were covered with Show at this time, though anfwering to our June. Some of them have large quantities of (tones, * irregularly heaped together at their foot, or on their fides. The fides of others, which form fteep cliffs towards the fea, are rent from the top downward, and feem ready to fall off, having (tones of a confiderable fize lying in the fiffures. Some were of opinion that froft might be the caufe of thefe fiffures, which I Shall not diSpute; but how others of the appearances could be effected, but by earthquakes, or fome fuch fevere (hocks, I cannot fay. It appears that rain muft be almoft conftant here, not only from the marks of large torrents having rufhed down, but from the difpofition of the country, which even on the hills, is almoft an entire bog or fwamp, the ground finking at every Step. The rocks, or foundations of the hills, are compofed chiefly of a dark blue, and very hard, Stone, intermixed with Small particles of glimmer or quartz. This Seems to be one of the moft universal productions of Nature, as it conftitutes whole mountains in Sweden, in Scotland, at the Canary A VOYAGE TO Canary Iflands, the Cape of Good Hope, and at this place. Another brownifh brittle ftone forms1 j here fome confiderable rocks; and one which is blacker, and found in detached pieces, irrelofe* bits of coarfe quartz. A red, a dull yellow, and a purpliSh fand-ftone, are alfo found in fmall pieces; and pretty large lamps of femi-tranfparent quartz, c&fpofed irregularly in polyedral pyramidal cryftals of long Shining fibres. Some fmall pieces of the common fort are met with in the brooks, made round by attrition; but none hard enough to refift a file. Nor were any of the other ftones acted on by aqua fords, or attracted by the magnet. Nothing, that had the leaft appearance of an ore or metal, was feen." CHAP. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. CHAP. VI. Paffage from Kerguelen's to Van Diemen's Land. ■—Arrival in Adventure Bay. — Incidents there. <—Interviews with the Natives.—Their Perfons and Drefs defcrihed. —- Account of their Behaviour. — Table of the Longitude, Latitude, and Variation.—Mr. Anderfon's Obfervations on the natural Productions of the Country, on the Inhabitants, and their Language. AFTER leaving Kerguelen's Land, I (leered I"6- Eaft by North, intending, in obedience to P^^J my inftructions, to touch next at New Zealand; to recruit our water, to take in wood, and to make hay for the cattle. Their number, by this time, had been confiderably diminifhed; two young bulls, one of the heifers, two rams, and feveral of the goats, having of late died, while we were employed in exploring this defolate coaft. The 3i ft, in the morning, being the day after Tuefd. 31. we flood out to fea, we had feveral obfervations of the fun and moon. Their refults gave the longitude 72° $$' 36" Eaft. The time-keeper, in this fituation, gave 720 38' 15". - Thefe observations were the more uSeful, as we had not been able to get any for fome time before, and they now ferved to affure us that no material error had crept into the time keeper. On the j ft of January, being then in the latitude 1777. of 480 41' South, longitude 76° 50' Eaft, the va- $£[££■ riation 9* AVOYAGETO >777- riation was 300 39' Weft ; and the next day, in ^^^,the latitude of 480 22' South, longitude 8o° 22' Thurf, a. Eaft, it was 30°47' 18" Weft. This was the greateft variation we found in this paffage ; for afterward it- began to decreafe, but fo (lowly, that Friday3. on the 3d, in the evening, being then in the latitude of 480 16'South, longitude 850 Eaft, it was 290 38' Weft. ' Thus far we had frefh gales from the Weft and South Weft, and tolerably clear weather. But now the wind veered to the North, where it continued eight days, and was attended with a thick fog. During this time, we ran above three hundred leagues in the dark. Now and then the weather would clear up, and give us a fight of the fun; but this happened very feldom, and was always Tuefd.7. of fhort continuance.. On the 7th, I hoifted oyt a boat, and fent an order to Captain Clerke, appointing Adventure Bay, in Van Diemen's Land, as our place of rendezvous, in cafe of feparation before we arrived in the meridian of that land. But we were fortunate enough, amjdft all this foggy weather, by frequently firing guns as fignals, though we feldom faw each other, not to lofe company. Sundayia, On the 12th, being in the latitude of 48s 40* South, longitude 1 io° 26' Eaft, the Northerly winds ended in a calm ; which, after a few hours, was Succeeded by a wind from the Southward. This, with rain, continued for twenty-four hours ; when it frefhened, and veered to the Weft and North Weft, and brought on fair and clear weather. We continued our eourfe to the Eaftward, without meeting with any thing worthy of notice, till Sundayi5. four o'clock in the morning of the 19th ; when, in a fudden fquall of wind, though the Difcovery re ceiled no damage, our fore*-top-maft went by the board, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 93 board, and carried the main-top-gallant-maft with J777. it. This occafioned fome delay, as it took us up January', the whole day to clear the wreck, and to fit ano- "~"~~v ther top-maft. The former was. accomplifhed without lofing any part of it, except a few fathoms of fmall rope. Not having a fpare main-top-gallant-maft on board, the fore-top-gallant-maft was converted into one for our immediate ufe. The wind continued Wefterly, blew a frefh gale, and was attended with clear weather; fo that fcarcely a day paffed without being able to get obfervations for fixing the longitude, and the variation of the compafs. The latter decreafed in fuch a manner, that in the latitude of 440 18' South, longitude 1320 2' Eaft, it was no more than 50 34' 18" Weft. and on the 22d, being then in the latitude Wedn.22. of 430 27' South, longitude 1410 50' Eaft, it was is 24' 15" Eaft. So that we had croffed the line where the compafs has no variation. On the 24th, at three o'clock in the morning, Friday 34. we difcovered the coaft of Van Diemen's Land, bearing North 4- Weft. At four o'clock, the South Weft Cape bore North North Weft | Weft j and the Mewftone, North Eaft by Eaft, three leagues diftant. There are feveral iflands and high rocks lying fcattered along this part of the coaft, the Southernmoft of which is the Mewftone. It is a round elevated rock, five or fix leagues-, diftant from the South Weft Cape, in the direction of South 550 Eaft. At noon, our latitude was 43°47' South, longitude 1470 Eaft; and the fituation of the lands round us as follows: An elevated round-topped hill bore North 17° Weft; the South Weft Cape North 740 Weft ; the Mewftone Weft J North ; Swilly Ifle or Rock South 490 Eaft; and the South Eaft or South Cape North 400 Eaft, diftant near three leagues. 94 AVOYAGETO »777- leagues. The land between the South Weft and £^J, the South Capes is broken and hilly, the coaft winding, with points (hooting out from it; but we were too far off, to be able to judge whether the bays formed by thefe points were fheltered from tlifc fea-winds. The bay which appeared to be the largeft and deepeft, lies to the Weftward of the peaked hill above-mentioned. The variation of the compaSs here, was 50 15' Eaft. At fix o'clock in the afternoon we founded, and found Sixty fathoms water, over a bottom of broken coral and Shells. The South Cape then bore North 750 Weft, two or three leagues diftant; TaSman's Head North Eaft; and Swilly Rock South by Weft ~ Weft. About a league to the Eaftward j, of Swilly, is another elevated rock, that is not taken notice of by Captain Furneaux. I called it the Eddyftone, from its very great refemblance to that light-houfe. Nature feems to have left thefe two rocks here, for the Same purpoSe that the Eddyftone light-houSe was built by man, viz. to give navigators notice of the dangers around them. For they are the confpicuous fummits of a ledge of rocks under water, on which the fea, in many places, breaks very high. Their furface is white with the dung of fea-fowls; fo that they may be Seen at Some diftance, even in the night. On the North Eaft fide of Storm Bay, which lies between the South Cape and Tafman's Head, there are fome coves or creeks, that feemed to be fheftereii from the fea-winds; and I am of opinion that, were this coaft examined, there would be found fome good harbours. Soon after we had fight of land the Wefterly winds left us, and were fucceeded by variable light Sundayao". airs and alternate calms, till the 26th at noon. At that time a breeze fprung up and frefhened at South THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 9S South Eaft, which put it in my power to carry into 1777- execution the defign I had, upon due confideration, J*^"*^ formed, of carrying the (hips into Adventure Bay, where I might expect to get a fupply of wood and of grafs for the cattle; of both which articles we (hould, as I now found, have been in great want, if 1 had waited till our arrival in New Zealand. We therefore flood for the bay, and anchored in it at four o'clock in the afternoon, in twelve fathoms water, over a bottom of fand and oufe. Penguin lfland, which lies clofe to the Eaft point of the bay, bore North 840 Eaft; the Southernmoft point of Maria's Iflands bore North 76° 4 Eaft; and Cape Frederic Henry, or the North point of the bay, bore North ^of Eaft. Our diftance Srom the neareft Shore was about three quarters of a mile. As foon as we had anchored, I ordered the boats to be hoifted out. In one of them I went myfelf, to look for the moft commodious place for furnifh- ing ourfelves with the neceffary fupplies; and Captain Clerke went in his boat upon the fame fervice. Wood and water we found in plenty, and in fituations convenient enough, efpeciaily the firft. But grafs, of which we flood moft in need, was fcarce, and alfo very coarfe. Neceffity, however, obliged us to take fuch as we could get. Mond. 27. Next morning early, I fent Lieutenant King to the Eaft fide of the bay with two parties-, one to cut wood, and the other to cut grafs, under the protection of the marines, whom 1 judged it prudent to land as a guard. For although, as yet, none of the natives had appeared, there could be no doubt that fome were in our neighbourhood, as we had feen columns of Smoke, from the time of our approaching the coaft ; and fome now was obferved, at no great diftance up in the woods. I alfo Sent the launch for water ; 1 and 96 A VOYAGE TO Vi77?; and afterwards vifited all the parties myfelf. In January, the evening, we drew the feine at the head of the bay, and, at one haul, caught a great quantity ;. of fifh. We fhould have got many more, had not Sw~ the net broken in drawing it afhore. Moft of them were of that fort known to Seamen by the name of elephant fifh. After this every one repaired on board with what wood and grafs we had cut, that we might be ready to fail whenever the wind fhould ferve. Tuefd. a8. This not happening next morning, the people were fent on fhore again, on the fame duty as the day before. I alfo employed the carpenter, with part of his crew, to cut fome fpars for the ufe of the fhip; and difpatched Mr. Roberts, one of the mates, in a fmall boat to Survey the bay. In the afternoon, we were agreeably Surprised, at the place where we were cutting wood, with a vifit Srom Some of the natives; eight men and a boy. They approached us Srom the woods, without betraying any marks of fear, or rather with the greateft confidence imaginable; Sor none of them -had any weapons, except one who held in his hand a (tick about two feet long, and pointed at one end. They were quite naked, and wore no ornaments; unlefs we confider as fuch, and as a proof of their love of finery, Some large punctures or ridges raiSed on different parts of their bodies, feme in Straight, and others in curved lines. They were of the common ftature, but rather Slender. Their (kin was black, and alfo their hair,, which was as woolly as that of any native of Guinea; but they were not diftinguifhed by remarkably thick lips, nor flat nofes. On the contrary, their features were far from being difagree- able. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. §£ able. They had pretty good eyes ; and their teeth 1777. were tolerably even, but very dirty. Moft of them tew* had their hair and beards fmeared with a red oint-v v ment; and fome had their faces alfo painted with the Same compofition. They received every prefent we made to them, without the leaft appearance of Satisfaction. When feme bread was given, as Soon as they understood that it was to be eaten, they either returned it, . or threw it away, without even tafting it. They alfo refufed fome elephant fifh, both raw and dref- Sed, which we offered to them. But upon giving fome birds to them, they did not return thefe, and eafily made us. comprehej^ that they were fond of fuch food. 1 had brought two pigs afhqr§,. with a view to leave them in the woods. The inftant thefe came within their reach, they Seized them, as a dog would have done, by the ears, and were for carrying them off immediately ; with no other intention, as we could perceive, but to kill them. Being defirous of knowing the ufe of the Stick which one of our vifitft^^arried in his hand, I made Signs to them to fhew me; and fo far Succeeded, that one of them fet up a piece of wood as a mark, and threw at it, at the diftance of about twenty yards. But we had little reafon to commend his dexterity; for after repeat^ trials, he was (till very wide from the object. Omai, to (hew them how much fuperior our weapons w,§re; to theirs, then fired his mufquet at it; which alarmed them fo much, that, notwithstanding all we could do or Say, they ran inftantly into the woods. One of them was fo frightened, that he let drop an axe and two knives, that had been given to him. From us, however, they went to, the place, where Some of the Difcovery's people were employed in taking water into their boat. Vol. I. H T> 98 VOYAGE TO 1777. The officer of that party, not knowing that they January. hacj pajj us f0 friendly a vifit, nor what their in- I 'tent might be, fired a mufquet in the air, which fent them off with the greateft precipitation. Thus ended our firft interview with the natives. Immediately after their final retreat, judging that their fears would prevent their remaining near enough to obferve what was paffing, I ordered the two pigs, being a boar and fow, to be carried about a mile within the woods, at the head of the bay. I faw them left there, by the fide of a frefh-water brook. A young ^ull and a cow, and fome fheep and goats, were alfo, at firft, intended to have been left by me, as an additional prefent to Van Diemen's Land. But I foon laid afide all thoughts of this, from a perfuafion that the natives, incapable of entering into my views of improving their country, would deftroy them. If ever they fhould meet with the pigs, I have no doubt this will be their fate. But as that race of animals foon becomes wild, and is fond of the thickeft cover of the woods, there is great probability of their being preferved. An open place muft have been choSen for the accommodation of the other cattle ; and in fuch a fituation, they could not poffibly have remained concealed many days. Wedn.29. The morning of the 29th was ufhered in with a dead calm, which continued all day, and effectually prevented our failing. I therefore Sent a party over to the eaft point of the bay to cut-grafs; having been informed that fome of a fuperior quality grew there. Another party, to cut wood, was ordered to go to the ufual place, and I accompanied them myfelf. We had obferved Several of the natives, this morning, fauntering along the^, Shore, which allured us, that though their THE- PACIFIC OCEAN. 99 their condensation had made them leave us fo iW. abruptly the day before, they were convinced that January. We intended them no mifchief, and were deSirous* "v~—' of renewing the intercourfe. It was natural that I fhould wifh to be prefent on the occafion. We had not been long landed, before about twenty of them, men and boys, joined us, without expreffing the leaft fign of fear or diftruft. There was one of this company confpicuoufly ■deformed ; and who was not more distinguishable by the hump upon his back, than by the drollery of his geftures, and the feeming humour of his fpeeches; which he was very fond of exhibiting, as we fuppofed, for our entertainment. But, unfortunately, we could not underftand him ; the language fpoken here being wholly unintelligible to us. It appeared to me, to be different from that fpoken by the inhabitants of the more northern parts of this country, whom I met with in my firft voyage; which is not extraordinary; fince thofe we now faw, and thofe we then vifited, differ in many filer refpects*. Nor did they feem to be Such miserable wretches as the natives * The moft ftriking difference feems to be with regard to the texture of the hair. The natives whom Captain Cdok met with a.t Endeavour River in 1769, are faid, by him; to have naturally long and black hair, though it be univerfally cropped fhort'. Iti general it is flraii, but fometimet il has a flight curl. We faw none that was not matted and filthy. Their beards Were of the fame colour with the hair, and bufhy and thick. Sae Hawke£« worth's Colle&ion, Vol. iii. chap. 8. p. 632. It may be neceffary to mention here, On the authority of Cap- -tain King, that Captain Cook was very unwilling to allow that the hair of the natives now met with in Adventure Bay was wool- (/& fancying that his people, who firft obferved this, had been deceived, from its being clotted with greafe and red ochre; But Captain King prevailed upon hini afterward, to examine carefully the hair of the boys, which was generally, as well as that of the women, free from this dirt; and then he owned himfelf fatisfied that it was naturally liioolly. Perhaps we may fuppofe it poffible, that he himfelf had been deceived when he was in Endeavour River, from this very circumftance -, as he exprefsly fays, that they faw none that was not matted and filthy. H 2 whom A VOYAGE TO whom Dampier mentions to have Seen on its weft- j ern coaft *. Some of our prefent groupe wore, loofe, round their necks, three or four folds of fmall cord, made of the fur of fome animal; and others of them had a narrow flip of the kangooroo (kin tied round their ancles. I gave to each of them a String of beads, and a medal; which I thought they received with Some Satisfaction. They feemed to fet no value on iron, or on iron tools. They were even ignorant of the uSe of fifh-hooks, if we might judge from their manner of looking at fome of ours which we Shewed to them. We cannot, however, Suppofe it to be poflible that a people who inhabit a fea-coaft, and who feem to derive no part of their fuftenance ffirom the productions of the ground, fhould not be acquainted with fome mode of catchirag fifh, although we did not happen to fee any of them thus employed ; nor obferve any canoe or veffel, in which they could go upon the water. Though they absolutely rejected the Sort of fifh that we offered to them, it was evident that fhell-fifh, at leaft, * And yet Dampier's New Hollanders, on the Weftern coaft, bear a ftriking refemblance to.Captain Cook's at Van Diemen's Land, in many remarkable inftances : ift, As to their becoming familiar with the ftrangers. adly, As. to their perfons;.taing ftraoght-bodied, and thin; tfifeirfkin black ; and black, fhort, curled hair, like the Negroes of Guinea ; with wide mouths. 3dly, As to their wretched condition •, having no houfes, no- garnsent, no- canoes, no inftrument to catch large fifh j feeding on broiled lSjpSsks, cockles, and periwinckles •, having no fruits ®f theearth ; their weapons a ftraight pole, fbarpened and hard- Sued at the end, &c. &c. The chief peculiarities of Dampier's miferable wretches are, i ft, Their eye-lids bai-ngj aAwa-ys half clofed, to keep the flies 6ut, which were exceffively troublefome there : and, 2dly, Their wanting the two fore-teeth of the upper jaw, and their having »o beard*. See Dampier's Voyages, Vol. i. p. 464, &c. There feems to be no reafon forfu-ppofing that Dampier was miftaken in the ab»ve account sf wba* he. law. made THE PACIFIC OCEAN. made a part of their food, from the many heaps i- of mufcle-fhells we faw in different parts near Jar the fhore, and about fome deferted habitations near the head of the bay. Thefe were little fheds or hovels built of (ticks, and covered with bark. We could alfo perceive evident figns of their Sometimes taking up their abode in the trunks of large trees, which had been hollowed out by fire, moft probably for this very purpofe. In or near all thefe habitations, and wherever there was a heap of (hells, there remained the marks of fire; an indubitable proof that they do not eat their food »aw. After Staying about an hour with the wooding party and the natives, as I could now be pretty confident that the latter were not likely to give the former any disturbance, I left them, and went over to the grafs-cutters on the Eaft point of the bay, and found that they had met with a fine patch. Having Seen the boats loaded, I left that party, and returned on board to dinner; where, fome time after, Lieutenant King arrived. From him I learnt, that I had but juft left the Shore, when feveral women and children made their appearance, and were introduced to him by fome of the men who attended them. He gave prefents to all of them, of Such trifles as he had about him„ Thefe females wore a kangooroo fkin (in the fame fhape as it came from the animal) tied over the fhoulders, and round the waift. But its only ufe feemed to be, to fupport their children when carried on their backs; for it did not cover thofe parts which moft nations conceal; being, in all other refpects, as naked as the men, and as black, and their bodies marked with Scars in the fame manner. But in this they differed from the men, that though their hair was of the fame m A V O Y A G E T O i777. fame colour and texture, fome of them had their January. heads completely (horn or fhaved; in others this ^^^ operation had been performed only on one fide, while the reft of them had all the upper part of the head (horn clofe, leaving a circle of hair all round, fomewhat like the tonfure of the Romifh Ecclefiaftics *, Many of the children had fine * features, and were thought pretty ; but of the perfons of the women, efpecially thofe advanced in years, a lefs favourable report was made. However, fome of the gentlemen belonging to the Difcovery, I was told, paid their addreffes, and made liberal offers of prefents, which were rejected with great difdain; whether from a fenfe of virtue, or the fear of difpleafing their men, I fhall not pretend to determine. That this gallantry was not very agreeable to the latter, is certain : for an elderly man, as foon as he obferved it, ordered all the women and children to retire, which they obeyed, though fome of them -Shewed a little reluctance. This conduct of Europeans amongft Savages to their women, is highly blameable; as it creates a jealoufy in their men, that may be attended with confequences fatal to the SucceSs of the common enterprize, and to the whole body of adventurers, * Captain Cook's account of the natives of Van Diemen's Land, in this Chapter, no. doubt proves that they differ, in many refpeBs, as he fays, from the inhabitants of the more northerly parts of the Eaft coaft of New Holland, whom he mef with in his firft voyage. It feems very remarkable, however, that the only woman any of his people came clofe to, in Botany Bay, fhould have her hair croppedfhort; while the man who was with her, is faid to have had the hair of his head bufhy, and his beard long and rough. Hawkefworth's Collection, Vol, iii, p. 502. Could the natives of Van Diemen's Land be more accurately defcrihed, than by faying that the hair of the mens heads is bufhy, find their beards long and rough, and that the women's hair is croppedfhort? So far North, therefore, as Botany Bay, the natives of the Eaft coaft of New Holland feem to referable thofe of -Van Diemen's Land, in this circumftance, without THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 103 without advancing the private purpoSe of the in- 1777. dividual, or enabling him to gain the object of J^"uaiT- his wifhes. I believe it has been generally found amongft uncivilized people, that where the women are eafy of accefs, the men are the firft to offer them to Strangers ; and that, where this is not the cafe, neither the allurement of prefents, nor the opportunity of privacy, will be likely to have the defired effect. This obfervation, I am fure, will hold good, throughout all the parts of the South Sea where I have been. Why then fhould men act fo abfurd a part, as to rifk their own fafety, and that of all their companions, in purfuit of a gratification which they have no probability of obtaining ? In the afternoon I went again to the grafs-cut- ters, to forward their work. I found them then upon Penguin Ifland, where they had met with a plentiful crop of excellent grafs. We laboured hard till fun-fet, and then repaired on board, fa- ' tisfied with the quantity we had collected, and which I judged fufficient to laft till our arrival in New Zealand. During our whole ftay, we had either calms or light airs from the Eaftward. Little or no time, therefore, was loft by my putting in at this place. ,Fb$-:if .1 had kept the fea, we Should not have been twenty leagues advanced Sarther on our voyage. And, (hort as our continuance was here, it has enabled me to add fomewhat to the imperfect acquaintance that hath hitherto been acquired, with this part of the globe. Van Diemen's Land has been twice vifited before. It was fo named by Tafman, who difcovered it in November 1642. From that time it had efcaped all farther notice by European navigators, till Captain Furneaux touched at it in March 1773. I hardly need *V4 A V 0 Y A G E T 0 fflfi.i need fay, that it is the Southern point of New ^^^Holland, which if it doth not deferve the name of a continent, is by far the largeft ifland in the world. The land is, for the moft part, of a good height, diverfified with hills and valleys, and every where of a greenifh hue. It is v/ell wooded ; and if one may judge from appearances, and from what we met with in Adventure Bay, is not ill fupplied with water. We found plenty of it in three or four places in this bay. The beft, or what is moft convenient for fhips that touch here, is a rivulet, which is one of feveral that fall into a pond, that lies behind the beach at the head of the bay. It there mixes with the fea-water; fo that it muft be taken up above this pond, which may be done without any great trouble. Fire-wood is to be got, with great eafe, in feveral places. The only wind to which this bay is expofed, is the North Eaft. But as this wind blows from Maria's iflands, it can bring no very great fea along with it; and therefore, upon the whole, this may be accounted a very fafe road. The , %oftom is clean, good holding ground; and the depth of water from twelve, to five and four fathoms. But the annexed Chart will convey a better idea of every thing neceffary to be known about Adventure Bay, than any defcription. Captain Furneaux's Sketch of Van Diemen's Land, publifhed with the Narrative of my laft Voyage*, appears to me to be without any material error, except with regard to Maria's Iflands, which have a different fituation from what is there represented. What my idea of them is, will be feen in the Sketch of that coaft here inferted ; and I infert THE PACIFIC OCEAN. I infert it, ndt as the refult of a more faithful, but u merely of a fecond examination. The longitude J^ was determined by a great number of lunar obfervations, which we had before we made the land, while we were in fight of it, and after we had left it; and reduced to Adventure Bay, and the feveral principal points, by the time-keeper. The following Table will exhibit both the longitude and latitude at one view: Latitude South. Longitude Eaft. Adventure Bay, - 430 21' 20"—1470 29' o" Tafman's Head, - 43 33 o —147 28 o South Cape, - - 43 42 0—146 56 o South Weft Cape, - 43 37 o—146 7 o Swilly Ifle, - - 43 55 o —147 60 . , -5 Variation of the compafs 50 15' Eaft. Adven- / Di of the gouth End of the Need[e tureBay,} I ^ 4jg We had high-water on the 29th, being two days before the laft quarter of the moon, at nine in the morning. The perpendicular rife then was eighteen fn$fees; and there was no appearance of its having ever exceeded two feet and a -half. Thefe are all the memorials ufeful to navigation, which my fhort Stay has enabled me to preferve, with refpect to Van Diemen's Land. Mr. Anderfon, my Surgeon, with his ufual diligence, Spent the few days we remained in Adventure Bay, in examining the country. His account of its natural productions, with-wich he favoured me, will more than compenfate for my filence about them: fome of his remarks on the inhabitants will fupply what -I trtey have omitted or re- .prefented imperfectly j and his fpecimen of their language, i©6 A V O Y A G E T O 1777. language, however fhor^ will be thought worth January, attending to, by thoSe who wifh to collect mate- "v""~"' rials for tracing the origin of nations. I fhall only premife, that tfetall Straight foreft trees, which Mr. AnderSon deScribes in the following account, are of a different fort from thofe which are found in the more Northern parts of this coaft. The wood is very long and clofe-grained; extremely tough; fit for Spars, oars, and many other uSes; and would, on occafion, make good mafts (perhaps none better), if a method could be found to lighten it. " At the bottom of Adventure Bay is a beautiful .fandy beach, which feems to be wholly formed by the particles wafhed by the fea from a \rery fine white fand-ftone, that in many places -' -> bounds the fhore, and of which Fluted Cape, in the neighbourhood, from its appearance, feems to be compoSed. This niSfch is about two miles long, and is excellently adapted for hauling a feine, which both fhips did repeatedly with Succefs. Behind this, is a plain or flat, with a Salt, or rather brackifh lake (running in length parallel with the beach), out of which we caught, with angling rods, many whitifh bream, and fome Small trout. The other parts of the country adjoining the bay are quite hilly ; and both thoSe and the flat are an entire foreft of very tall trees, rendered almoft im- paffible by Shrubs, brakes of fern, and fallen trees; except on the fides of fome of the hills, where the trees are but thin, and a coarfe grafs is the only interruption. To the Northward of the bay there is low land, Stretching farther than the eye can reach, which is only covered with wood in certain fpots; but we had no opportunity to examine in what refpects it differed from the hilly country.. The foil on 1 the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 107 the flat land is either Sandy, or confifts of a yel- 1777- lowifli mould, and, in fome places, of a reddifh ^^2j clay. The fame is found on the lower part of the hills; but farther up, efpecially where there are few trees, it is of a grey tough eaft, to appearance very poor. In the valleys between the hills, the water drains down from their fides; and at laft, in fome places, forms fmall brooks ; fuch indeed as were Sufficient to fupply us with water, but by no means of that fize we might expect in fo extenfive a country, efpecially at> it is both hilly and well wooded. Upon the whole, it has many marks of being naturally a very dry.country; and perhaps might (independent* of its wood) be compared to Africa, about the Cape of Good Hope, though that lies ten degrees farther Northward, rather than to New Zealand, on its other fide, in the fame latitude, where we find every valley, however fmall, furnifhed with a confiderable ftream of water. The heat too appears to be great, as the thermometer ftood at 64, 70, and once at 74. And it was remarked, that birds were feldom killed an hour or two, before they were almoft covered with Sma-ll maggots, which I would rather attribute merely to the heat; as we had not any reafon to fuppofe there is a peculiar difpofition in the climate to render fubftances foon putrid. No mineral bodies, nor indeed Stones of any other fort, but the white fand one already mentioned, were obferved. Amongft the vegetable productions, there is not one, that we could find, which afforded the fmalleft fubfiftence for man. The foreft trees are all of one fort, growing to a great height, and in general quite Straight, branching but little, till towards the top. The bark io8 A VOYAGE TO 1777- bark is white, which makes them appear, at a ^2j diftance, as if they had been peeled; it is alfo thick; and within it are Sometimes collected, pieces of a reddifh tranfparent gum or refin, which has an aftringent tafte. The leaves of this tree are long, narrow, and pointed; and it bears clutters of Small white flowers, whoSe cups were, at this time, plentifully Scattered about the ground, with another Sort reSembling them Somewhat in Shape, but much larger; which makes it probable that there are two fpecies of this tree. The bark of the Smaller brandies, fruit, and leaves, have an agreeable pungent tafte, and aromatic Smell, not lanlake peppermint; and in its nature, it has Some affinity to the myrtus of botanifts. The moft common tree, next to this, is a Small one about ten feet high, branching pretty much, with narrow leaves, and a large, yellow, cylindrical flower, confifting only of a vaft number of filaments ; which, being fhed, leave a fruit like a pine top. Both the above-mentioned trees are unknown in Europe. The underwood confifts chiefly of a Shrub fome- what reSembling a myrtle, and which feems to be the leptofperfmim feoparitm, mentioned in Dr. ForS- ter's Char. Gen. Plant.; and, in Some places, of -another, rather fmaller, which is a new fpecies of the melaleuca of Linnaeus. Of other plants, which are by no means numerous, there is a fpecies of gladiohs, rufh, bell-flower, famphire, a fmall fort of wcod-forrel, milk-wort, icudweed, and Job's tears; with-a few others, peculiar to the place. There are feveral kinds of fern, as polypody, fpleenwort, female fern, and fome moffes ; but the fpecies are either common, pr at leaft Sound in Some other countries, efpecially New Zealand. The THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 109 The only animal of the quadruped kind we ftyfr gpt, was a- fort of opoffum, about twice the fize J^an^f of a large rat; and is, moft probably, the male' (r**~ of th&t fpecies found at Endeavour River, as mentioned in Hawkefworth's Collection of Voyages *. It is of a dufky colour above, tinged with a brown or rufty eaft, and whitifh below. Ahon* a third of the tail, towards its tip, is white, and bare underneath; by which it probably hangs on the branches of trees, as it climbs thefe, and lives on berries. The kangooroo, another animal found farther Northward in New Holland, as defcrihed in the fame Voyage +, without all doubt aUq inhabits here, as the natives we met with had feme pieces of their fkins; and we feveral times faw animals, though indiftinctfjL, run from the thieksts when we. walked in the woods, which, foom the fize, could be no other. It Should Seem alfo, that they are in confiderable numbers, from the dung we faw almoft every where, and from the narrow tracks or paths.they have made amongft the fhrubbery. There are feveral forts of birds, but all fo fcarce and (try, that they are evidently haraffed by the natives, who, perhaps, draw much of their fub- fiftence from them. In the woods, the. principal forts- are large brown hawks or eagles; crows, nearly the fame as ours in England; yellowifh paroquets ; and large pigeons. There are alfo three or four fmall birds, one of which is of the thrufh kind; and another fmall one, with a pretty long tail, has part of the head and neck of a moft beautiful azure colour; from whence we named it motacilla cyanea. On the fhore were feveral common and fea gulls; a few black oyfter catchers, * Vel. iii. p. 586. f Ibid. p. 577. I ne AVOYAGETO 1777. or fea pies; and a pretty plover of a (tone co- January. jour) wjtjj a b]ack. {jqqJ^ About the pond or lake behind the beach, a few wild ducks were feen; and fome (hags uSed to perch upon the high leaf- lefs trees near the fhore. *zzz> Some pretty large blackifh Snakes were feen in the woods ; and we killed a large, hitherto unknown, lizard, fifteen inches long and fix round, elegantly clouded with black and yellow; befides a fmall fort, of a brown gilded colour above, and rufty below. The fea affords a much greater plenty, and at leaft as great a variety as the land. Of thefe the elephant fifh, or pejegallo, mentioned in Frezier's Voyage*, are the moft numerous; and though inferior to many other fifh, were very palatable food. Several large rays, nurfes, and fmall leather- jackets were caught; with fome fmall white bream, which were firmer and better than thofe caught in the lake. We likewife got a few foles and flounders ; two Sorts of gurnards, one of them a new fpecies; fome fmall fpotted mullet; and, very unexpectedly, the fmall fifh with a filver band on its fide, called atherina bepfetus by HaSfelquift f. But that next in number, and fuperior in good- nefs, to the elephant fifh, was a Sort none of us recollected to have feen before. It partakes of the nature both of a round and of a flat fifh, having the eyes placed very near each other;. the fore-part of the body much flattened or de- preffed, and the reft rounded. It is of a brown- ifh fandy colour, with rufty fpots on the upper part, and whitifh below. From the quantity of Slime it was always covered with, it feems * Tom.ii. p. 211 f Iter Palafiinw THE PACIFIC OCEAN. to live after the manner of flat fifh, at the bottom. £ Upon the rocks are plenty of mufeles, and fome other fmall (hell-fifti. There are alfo great numbers of fea-ftars; fome fmall limpets; and large quantities of fponge; one fort of which, that is thrown on fhore by the fea, but not very common, has a moft delicate texture; arid another, is the fpongia dichotoma. Many pretty Medufa's heads were found upon the beach ; and the Stinking laplyfia or Sea-hare, which, as mentioned by Some authors, has the property of taking off the hair by the acrimony of its juice; but this fort was deficient in this refpect. Infects, though not numerous, are here in confiderable variety. Amongft them are grafshop- pers, butterflies, and feveral forts of fmall moths, finely variegated. There are two forts of dragon- flies, gad-flies, camel-flies; feveral forts of fpiders; and fome fcorpions; but the laft are rather rare.. The moft troublefome, though not very numerous tribe of infects, are the mufquitoes; and a large black ant, the pain of whofe bite is almoft intolerable, during the fhort .time it lafts. The mufquitoes, alfo, make up the deficiency of their number, by the feverity of their venemous pro- bofcis. The inhabitants, whom we met with here, had little of that fierce or wild appearance common to people in their fituation; but, on the contrary, feemed mild and cheerful, without referve or jealoufy of Strangers. This, however, may ariSe from their having little to loSeor care for. With A, VOYAGE TQ With ^(pect to perfonal activity or genius, we • can fay but little of either. They do not feem to poffefs the fitft in any remarkable degree ; and as for the laft,, $tey have, to appearance, lefs thaaeven the half-animated inhabitants of Terra del Fuego, who have not invention fufficient to make clothing for defending themfelves from the rigor of their climate, though furnifhed with the materials. The fmall (tick, rudely pointed, which one of them carried in his hand, was the only thing we Saw th®t required any mechanical ex;-* tttjo@, if we except the fixing on the feet of Some of them pieces of kangooroo fkin^ tied with thongs; though it could, not be learnt.-whether thefe were in uSe as Shoes, or only to defend fome fore. Is muft be owned, however, they are matters of fome contrivance, in the manner ©fl ©jttiag ibeif arms and bodies ia lines of different lengths and dise^ions, which are raffed cojifid&ably above the furface of the (kin, fo that it is difficult to guefS tfee method they ufe in executing thi&.«iufe£ojder$ of/ their perfons. Their not expelling that Surprize which.- one might have expected from their fesiogmen fo much unjik* tberajfejvos* aad. things, to.-which, we were well affured, they had been hltterto utter ftrangers ; their ta^ffe«e®ce for our prefents ; and their general inattention; were fufficient proofs of their not poffefling any acute- Iteis qf underftanding. Their colour is a dull black, and not quite Sq deep as that of the African Negroes. It fhipukl feem alfo, that* they Sometimes; heightened ^hti» black colour, by fin,utting their bodies; as a mark was left behind on any clean fuhftance, Such.ass white paper, when they handled it. Their hair, however, is perfectly woolly, and it is clotted or divided into fmall parcels, like that of the Hottentots, with the ufe of fome fort of grafs, mixed with a 2 red THE PACIFIC 'OCEAN. u- red paint or ochre, which they Smear in great 1777. abundance over their heads. This practice, as Januai7- Some might imagine, has not the effect of chang- ing their hair into the frizzling texture we obferved ; for, on examining the head of a boy, which appeared never to have been fmeared, I , found the hair to be of the fame kind. Their - nofes, though not flat, are broad and full. The lower part of the face projects a good deal, as is the cafe oS moft Indians I have ieen; fo that a line let fall from the forehead, would cut off a much larger portion than it would in Europeans. Their eyes are of a middling fize, with the white lefs clear than in us;*and though not remarkably quick or piercing, fuch as give a frank cheerful eaft to the whole countenance. Their teeth are broad, but not equal, nor well fet; and, either from nature or from dirt, not of fo true a white as is ufual among people of a black colour. Their mouths are rather wide ; but this appearance feems heightened by wearing their beards long, and clotted with paint, in the fame manner as the hair on their heads. In other refpects, they are well-proportioned; though the belly feems rather projecting. This may be owing to the want of comprefiion there, which few nations do not ufe, more Or lefs. The pofture of which they feem fondeft, is to (tand with one fide forward, or the upper part of the body gently reclined, and one hand grafping (acrofs the back) the oppofite arm, which hangs down by the projecting fide. What the ancient Poets tell us of Fauns and Satyrs living in hollow trees, is here realized. Some wretched constructions of (ticks, covered with bark, which do not even deferve the name of huts, were indeed found near the fhore in the bay ; but thefe feemed only to have been erected for temporary purpofes; and many of ^ir largeft. Vol. I. I trees i! + A VOYAGE TO 1777. trees were converted into more comfortable ha- ^""^bitations. Thefe had their trunks hollowed out by fire, to the height of fix or feven feet; and that they take up their abode in them fometimes, was evident from the hearths, made of clay, to contain the fire in the middle, leaving room for four or five perfons to fit round it *. At the fame time, theSe places of fhelter are durable; for they take care to leave one fide of the tree found, which is fufficient to keep it growing as luxuriantly as thofe which remain untouched. The inhabitants of this place are, doubtlefs, from the fame ftock with thofe of the Northern parts of New Holland. Though fome of the circumftances mentioned by Dampier, relative to thofe he met with on the Weftern coaft of this country, fuch as their defective fight, and want of fore-teeth, are not found here; and though Hawkefworth's account of thofe met with by Captain Cook on the Eaft fide, Shews alfo that they differ in many refpects ; yet ftill, upon the whole, I am perfuaded that diftance of place, entire feparation, diverfity of climate, and length of time, all concurring to operate, will account for greater differences, both as to their perfons and as to their cuftoms, than really exift between our Van Die- men's Land natives, and thoSe deScribed by Dam- pier, and in Captain Cook's firft voyage. This is certain, that the figure of one of thofe feen in Endeavour River, and reprefented in Sidney Parkin- fon's Journal of that voyage, very much refembles our vifiters in Adventure Bay. That there is not the like reSemblance in their language, is a circumstance that need not create any difficulty. For * Tafman, when in the bay of Frederick Henry, adjoining to Adventure Bay, foundtwo trees, oneof which was two fathoms, and the other two fathoms and a half in girth, and fixty or fixty- five feet high, from the root to the branches. See his Voyage, in Harris's Cotlefiion, Campbell's Edition, Vol. i. p. 326. though THE PACIFIC OCEAN. US thoughthe agreement of the languages of people living T777. diftant Srom each other, may be aflumed as a Strong January, argument Sor their having fprung from one com- "v-*-1 mon fource; difagreement of language is by no means a proof of the contrary *. However, we muft have a far more intimate acquaintance with the languages fpoken here and in the more Northern parts of New Holland, before we can be warranted to pronounce that they are totally different. Nay, we have good grounds for the oppofite opinion; for we found that the animal called kangooroo at Endeavour river, was known under the fame name here ; and I need not obferve, that it is fcarcely poflible to fuppofe that this was not tranfmitted from one another, but accidentally adopted by two nations, differing in language and extraction. Befides, as it feems very improbable that the Van Diemen's Land inhabitants fhould have ever loft the ufe of canoes or failing veffels, if they had been originally conveyed thither by fea, we muft neceffarily admit that they, as well as the kangooroo itfelf, have been * The ingenious Author of Recherches fur les Americains, illuf- trates the grounds of this affertion in the following fatisfa&ory manner: " Celt quelque chofe de furprenant, que la foule des "' idiomes, tous varies entr'eux, que par lent les naturels de " l'Amerique Septentrionale. Qu'on reduife ces idiomes & des " racines, qu'on les fimplifie, qu'on en fepare les diale&es & les " jargons derives, il en refulte toujours cinq ou fix langues-meres, '« refpectivement incomprehenfibles. On a obferve la meme " fingularite dans la Siberie & la Tartarie, ou le nonibre des " idiomes, & des dialeftes, eft egalement multiplie; & rien n'eft " plus commun, que d'y voir deux hordes voifines qui ne fe com- " prennent point. On retrouve cette mime multiplicite de jargons " dans toutes les Provinces de l'Amerique Meridionale." [He might alfo have included Africa.] " II y a beaucoup d'appa- '* rence que la vie fauvage, en difperfant les hommes par petttes " troupes ifole'es dans des bois epais, occaflone nice/fairement cette " grande diverfite des langues, dont le nombre diminue St mefure " que la fociete, en raffemblant les barbares vagabonds, en forme *' un corps de nation. Alors l'idiome le plus riche, ou le moins " pauvre en mots, devient dominant, & abforbe les autres." Tom. i. p. 150, 160. I 2 ftragglers 6 AVOYAGETO 777- Stragglers by land from the more Northern parts ™™^j of the country. And if there be any force in this obfervation, while it traces the origin of the people, it will, at the fame time, ferve to fix,another point, if Captain Cook and Captain Furneaux have not already decided it, that New Holland is no where totally divided by the fea into iflands, as fome have imagined *. As the New Hollanders feem all to be of the fame extraction, fo neither do I think there is any thing peculiar in them. On the contrary, they much refemble many of the inhabitants whom I have feen at the iflands Tanna and Manicola, Nay, there is even fome foundation for hazarding a fuppofition, that they may have originally come from the fame place with all the inhabitants of the South Sea. For, of only about ten words which we could get from them, that which expreffes cold, differs little from that of New Zealand and Otaheite; the firft being Mallareede, the fecond Makka'reede, and the third Ma'reede. The reft of our very fcanty Van Diemen's Land Vocabulary is as follows | Quadne, A woman. Eve'rai, The eye. Muidje, The nofe. Ka'my, The teeth, mouth, or tongue. Lae'renne, A fmall bird, a native of the woods Koy'gee, The ear. No'onga, Elevated fears on the body. Teegera, To eat. Toga'rago, I muft be gone, or, I will go. Their pronunciation is not difagreeable, but rather quick; though not more fo than is that f Dampier feems to be of this opinio of THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 117 of other nations of the South Sea; and, if we 1777. may depend upon the affinity of languages as a January, clue to guide us in difcovering the origin of na- v~ tions, I have no doubt but we fhall find, on a diligent inquiry, and when opportunities offer to Collect accurately a fufficient number of thefe words, and to compare them, that all the people from New Holland, Eaftward to Eafter lfland, have been derived from the fame common root *." * We find Mr. Anderfon's notions on this fubjecT: conformable to thofe of Mr. Marfden, who has remarked, " that one gene- • " ral language prevailed (however mutilated and changed in the " eourfe of time) throughout all this portion of the world, from. *' Madagafcar to the moft diftant difcoveries Eaftward; of which 5 the Malay is a dialed!, much corrupted or refined by a mix- " tureof other tongues. This very extenfive fimilarity of lan- " guage indicates a common origin of the inhabitants ; but the P circumftances and progrefs of their feparation are wrapped in 9 the darkeft veil of obfeurity.** Hiftory of Sumatra, p. 35. See alfo his very curious paper, read before the Society of Antiquaries, and publifhed in their Archaologia, Vol. vi. p. $&$ where his fentiments on this fubject, are explained more at large, and illuftrated by two Tables of correfponding Words. CHAP. A VOYAGE TO CHAP. VII. The Paffage from Van Diemen's Land to New- Zealand. — Employments in Queen Charlotte's Sound.—Tranfatlions with the Natives there.—- Intelligence about the Maffacre of the Adventure's Boat's Crew.—Account of the Chief who headed the Party on that Occafton.—Of the two young Men who embark to attend Omai. — Various Remarks on the Inhabitants.—Aftronomical and Nautical Obfervations. AT eight o'clock in the morning of the 30th of January, a light breeze fpringing up at *■—v-*-' Weft, we weighed anchor, and put to fea from Thurf, 30, Adventure Bay. Soon after, the wind veered to the Southward, and increaSed to a perfect Storm. Its fury abated in the evening, when it veered to the Eaft and North Eaft. This gale was indicated by the barometer, for the wind no fooner began to blow, than the mercury in the tube began to fall. Another remarkable thing attended the coming on of this wind, which was very faint at firft. It brought with it a degree of heat that was almoft intolerable. The mercury in the thermometer rofe, as it were in- ftantaneoufly, from about 700 to near go". This heat was of fo Short a continuance, that it feemed to be wafted away before the breeze that brought it; fo that fome on board did not perceive it. We «« THE PACIFIC OCEAN; 119 We purSued our eourfe to the Eaftward, with- 1777- out meeting with any thing worthy of note, till !^"^7j the night between the 6th and 7th of February, Frida7> when a marine belonging to the Difcovery fell over-board, and was never feen afterward. This was the fecond misfortune of the kind that had happened to Captain Clerke fince he left England. On the 10th, at four in the afternoon, we dif-Mond. 10; covered the land of New Zealand. The part we faw proved to be Rock's Point, and bore South Eaft by South, about eight or nine leagues diftant. During this run from Van Diemen's Land, the wind, for the firft four or five days, was at North Eaft, North, and North North Weft, and blew, for the moft part, a gentle breeze^; It afterward veered to South Eaft, where it remained twenty-four hours. It then came to Weft at®! South Weft; in which points it continued, with very little deviation, till we reached New Zealand. After making the land, I fteered for Cape Farewell, which at day-break, the next morning, Tuefd. u; bore South by Weft, diftant about four leagues. At eight o'clock, it bore South Weft by South, about five leagues diftant; and, in this fituation, we had forty-five fathoms water over a fandy bottom. In rounding the Cape we had fifty fathoms, and the fame fort of bottom. I now fteered for Stephen's Ifland, which wewedn. i». came up with at nine o'clock at night; and at ten, next morning, anchored in our old ftation, in Queen Charlotte's Sound *. Unwilling to lofe any time, our operations commenced that very after- noon,when we landed a number of empty water- ca(ks, and began to clear a place where we might fet up the two obfervatories, and tents for the re- * See the Chart of Queei Collection, Vol. ii. p. 38$. Charlotte's Sound, in Hawkefworth'* t2o A V O-Y AGE TO 1777. ception of a guard, and of fuch of our people *^™^J whofe bufinefs might make it neceflary for them to- remain on fhore. We had not been long at anchor before feveral canoes, filled with natives, came along-fide of the Ships; but very few of them would venture on board; which appeared the more extraordinary, as I was well known to them all. There was one man in particular amongft them, whom I had treated with remarkable kindnefs, during the whole of my ftay when I was laft here. Yet now, neither profeffions of friendfhip, nor prefents, could prevail upon him to come into the (hip. This ShyneSs was to be accounted for only upon this Supposition, that they were apprehenfive we had re- vifited their country, in order to revenge the death of Captain Furneaux's people. Seeing Omai on board my fhip now, whom they muft have remembered to have feen on board the Adventure when the melancholy affair happened, and whofe firft conversation with them, as they approached, generally turned on that fubject, they muft be well allured that I was no longer a ftranger to it. I thought it neceffary, therefore, to ufe every endeavour to aSfure them of the continuance of my friendfhip, and that I fhould not difturb them on that account. I do not know whether this had any weight with them ; but certain it is, that they very foon laid afide all manner of reftraint and diftruft. Thurf. 13. On the 13th we Set up two tents, one from each fhip ; on the Same Spot where we had pitched them formerly. The obfervatories were at the Same time erected ; and MeSfrs. King and Bayly began their operations immediately, to find the rate of the time-keeper, and to make other obfervations. The remainder- of the* empty vvater-cafks were H 2 alfo THE PACIFIC OCEAN. alfo fent on fhore, with the cooper to trim, and a fufficient number of Sailors to fill them. **< Two men were appointed to brew Spruce beer; and the carpenter and his crew were ordered to cut wood. A boat, with a party of men, under the direction of one of the mates, was Sent to collect graSs Sor our cattle; and the people that remained on board were employed in refitting the Ship, and arranging the provifions. In this manner, we were all profitably bufied during our Stay. For the protection of the party on fhore, I appointed a guard of ten marines, and ordered arms for all the workmen; and Mr. King, and two or three petty officers, conftantly remained with them. A boat was never Sent to any confiderable diftance from the fhips without being armed, and under the direction of fuch officers as I could depend upon, and who were well acquainted with the natives. During my former vifits to this country, I had never taken Some of thefe precautions ; nor were they, I firmly believe, more neceffary now than they had been formerly. But after the tragical fate of the Adventure's boat's crew in this found, and of Captain Marion du Frefhe, and of fome of his people, in the Bay of Iflands*, it was impoffible totally to diveft ourfelves of all appre- henfion of experiencing a Similar calamity. If the natives entertained any Sufpicion of our revenging thefe acts of barbarity, they very foou laid it afide. For, during the eourfe of this day, a great number of families come from different parts of the coaft, and took up their refidence eioJe to us; fo that there was not a Spot in the cove where a hut could be put up, that was not occupied by them, except the place where we had fixed # In .772. 122 A VOYAGE TO 1777- our little encampment. This they left us in quiet £^™^ poffeffion of; but they came and took away the ruins of fome old huts that were there, as materials for their new erections. It is curious to obferve with what facility they build theSe occafional places of abode. I have feen above twenty of them erected on a fpot of ground, that, not an hour before, was covered with Shrubs and plants. They generally bring Some part of the materials with them ; the reft they find upon the premifes. I was prefent when a number of people landed, and built one of theSe villages. The moment the canoes reached the Shore, the men leaped out, and at once took pofleSfion of a piece of ground, by tearing up the plants and Shrubs, or (ticking up fome part of the framing of a hut. They then returned to their canoes, and fecured their weapons, by Setting them up againft a tree, or placing them in Such a pofition, that they could be laid hold of in an inftant. I took particular notice that no one neglected this precaution. While the men were employed in railing the huts, the women were not idle. Some were ftationed to take care of the canoes; others to fe- cure the provisions, and the Sew utenfils in their poffeffion ; and the reft went to gather dry (ticks, that a fire might be prepared for dreffing their victuals. As to the children, I kept them, as alfo fome of the more aged, fufficiently occupied in fcrambling for beads, till I had emptied my pockets, and then 1 left them. Thefe temporary habitations are abundantly fufficient to afford Shelter from the wind and rain, which is the only purpofe they are meant to an- fwer. I obferved that, generally, if not always, the fame tribe or family, though it were ever Co large, affociated and built together; fo that we frequently THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 123 frequently faw a village, as well-as their larger 1777. towns, divided into different diftrifts, by low pal- ^f"^, liSades, or Some Similar mode of feparation. The advantage we received from the natives coming to live with us, was not inconfiderable. For, everyday, when thfe weather would permit, fome of them went out to catch fifh; and we generally got, by exchanges, a good Share of the produce of their labours. This fupply, and what our own nets and lines afforded us, was fo ample, that we feldom were in want of fifh. Nor was there any deficiency of other refrefhments. Celery, fcurvy-grafs, and portable foup were boiled with the peafe and wheat, for both fhips companies, every day during our whole flay; and they had Spruce-beer for their drink. So that, if any of our people had contracted the feeds of the fcurvys, fuch a regimen foon removed them. But the truth is, when we arrived here, there were only two invalids (and thefe on board the Refolution) upon the lick lifts in both fhips. Befides the natives who took up their abode clofe to us, we were occafionally vifited by others of them, whofe refidence was not far off; and by fome who lived more remote. Their articles of commerce were, curiofities, fifh, and women. The two firft always came to a good market; which the latter did not. The feamen had taken a kind of diflike to thefe people; and were either unwilling, or afraid, to affociate with them ; :,wh:tch produced this good effect, that I knew no inftance of a man's quitting his ftation, to go to their habitations. A connection with women I allow, becaufe I cannot prevent it; but never encourage, becaufe I always dread its confequences. I know, indeed, that many men are of opinion, that fuch an inter- 1 eourfe 124 AVOYAGETO 1777. eourfe is one of our greatest Securities amongft ye^arf\ Savages; and perhaps they who, either from ne- ceflity or choice, are to remain and Settle with them, may find it So. But with travellers and tranfient vifiters, fuch as we were, it is generally otherwife ; and, in our fituation, a connection with their women betrays more men than it Saves. What elSe can be reafonably expected, fince all their views are felfifh, without the leaft mixture of regard or attachment ? My own experience, at leaft, which hath been pretty extenfive, hath not pointed out to me one inftance to the contrary. Amongft onr occafional vifiters, was a chief named Kahoora, who, as I was informed, headed the party that cut off Captain Furneaux's people, and himfelf killed Mr. Rowe, the officer who commanded. To judge of the character of Kahoora, by what I heard from many of his countrymen, he feemed to be more feared than beloved amongft them. Not fatisfied with telling me that he was a very bad man, fome of them even importuned me to kill him : and, 1 believe, they were not a little furprifed that I did not listen to them ; for, according to their ideas of equity, this ought to have been done. But if I had followed the advice of all our pretended friends, I might have extirpated the whole race; for the people of each hamlet or village, by turns, applied to me to deftroy the other. One would have almoft thought it impof- fible, that So Striking a proof of the divided ftate in which this miferable people live, could have been aiiigned. -And yet I was Sure that I did not misconceive the meaning of thofe who made thefe Strange applications to me; for Omai, whofe language was a dialect of their own, and perfectly understood all that they Said, was our interpreter. On THE PACIFIC OCEAN. On the 15th, I made an excurfion in my boat to look for grafs, and vifited the Hippah, or fortified F village, at the South Weft point of Motuara, and s the places where our gardens had been planted on that ifland. There were no people at the former.; but the houfes and pallifades had been rebuilt, and were now in a ftate of good repair; and there were other evident marks of its having been inhabited not long before. Jt would be unneceffary, at prefent, to give a particular account of this Hippah, Sufficient notice having been taken of it in the Account of my firft Voyage, to which I refer *. When the Adventure arrived fiift at Queen Charlotte's Sound, in 1773+, Mr. Bayly, fixed upon this place for making his obfervations; and he, and the people with him, at their leifure hours, planted feveral Spots with Engiifh garden feeds. Not the leaft veftige of thefe nowjf^- mained. It is probable that they had been all rooted out to make room for buildings, when the village was reinhabited; for, at all the other gardens then planted by Captain Furneaux, although now wholly over-run with the weeds of the country, we found cabbages, onions, leeks, pur- Slain, radifhes, muftard, &c. and a few potatoes. Thefe potatoes, which were firft brought from the Cape of Good Hope, had been greatly improved by change of foil; and, with proper cultivation, would be fuperior to thofe produced in moft other countries. Though the New Zealand- ers are fond of this root, it was evident that they had not taken the trouble to plant a fingle one (much lefs any other of the articles which we had introduced); and if it were not for the difficulty * Hawkefworth's Collection, Vol. i f Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. xzo. • 395, &c 126 A VOYAGE TO 1777: of Clearing ground where potatoes had been once February, planted, there would not have been any now re- 'maining. Sund. 16. On the 16th, at day-break, I fet out with a party of men, in five boats, to collect food for our cattle. Captain Clerke, and feveral of the officers, Omai, and two of the natives, accompanied me. We proceeded about three leagues up the found, and then landed on the Eaft fide, at a place where I had formerly been. Here we cut as much grafs as loaded the two launches. As we returned down the found, we vifited Grafs Cove, the memorable (bene of .the Maffacre of Captain Furneaux's people. Here I met with my old friend Pedro, who was almoft continually with me the laft time I was in this found, and is mentioned in my Hiftory of that Voyage *. He, and another of his countrymen, received us on the beach, armed with the pa-too and fpear. Whether this form of reception was a mark of their courtefy or of their fear, I cannot fay; but I thought they betrayed manifeft figns of the latter* However, if they had any apprehenfions, a few prefents foon removed them, and brought down to the beach two or three more of the family; but the greateft part of them remained out of fight. Whilft we were at this place, our curiofity prompted us to inquire into the circumftances at" tending the melancholy fate of our countrymen ; and Omai was made uSe of as our interpreter for this purpofe. Pedro, and the reft of the natives prefent, anfwered all the queftions that were put to them on the fubject, without referve, and like men who are under no dread of punifhment for a # Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 158, 159. THE PACIFIC OCEAN 127 crime of which they are not guilty. For we al- 1777. ready knew that none of them had been concern- February. ed in the unhappy tranfaction. They told us, ,"~~v~"~' that while our people were fitting at dinner, fur- rounded by Several of the natives, fome of the latter Stole, or Snatched from them, fome bread and fifh, for which they were beat. This being refented, a quarrel enfued, and two New Zea- landers were (hot dead, by the only two mufquets that were fired. For before our people had time to difcharge a third, or to load again thofe that had been fired, the natives rufhed in upon them, overpowered them with their numbers, and put them all to death. Pedro and his companions, befides relating the hiftory of the maffacre, made us acquainted with the very Spot that was the Scene oS it. It is at the corner of the cove on the right- hand. They pointed to the place of the fun, to mark to us at what hour of the day it happened ; and, according to this, it muft have been late in the afternoon. They alfo (hewed usrfehe place where the boat lay ; and it appeared to be about two hundred yards diftant from that where the crew were feared. One of their number, a black fervant of Captain Furneaux, was left in the boat to take care of her. We were afterward told that this black was the caufe of the quarrel, which was faid to have happened thus: One of the natives dealing Something out of the boat, the Negro gave him a fevere blow with a flick. The cries of the fellow being heard by his countrymen at a diftance, they imagined he was killed, and immediately began the attack on our people; who, before they had time to reach the boat, or to arm themfelves againft the unexpected impending danger, fell a facrifice to the fury of their favage affailants. The i*8 A VOYAGE TO 1777- The firft of thefe accounts, was confirmed by J^™^ die testimony of many of the natives, whom we converfed with, at different times, and who, I think, could have no intereft in deceiving us. The Second manner of relating the tranfaction, refts upon the authority of the young New Zealander, who chofe to abandon his country and go away with us, and who, consequently, could have no poflible view in difguifing the truth. All agreeing that the quarrel happened when the boat's crew were fitting at their meal, it is highly probable that both the accounts are true, as they perfectly coincide. For we may very naturally fuppofe, that while fome of the natives were dealing from the man who had been left in the boat, others of them might take the fame liberties with the property of our people who were on fhore. Be this as it will, all agree, that the quarrel firft took its rife from fome thefts, in the commiffion of which the natives were detected. All agree, alfo, that there was no premeditated plan of blood- Shed, and that, if thefe thefts had not been, unfortunately, too haftily refented, no miSchief would have happened. For Kahoora's greateft enemies, thofe who folicited his destruction moft earnestly, at the Same time confeffed that he had , no intention to quarrel, much lefs to kill, till the fray had actually commenced. It alSo appears that the unhappy victims were under no Sort of appre- henfion of their fate; otherwife they never would have ventured to fit down to a repaft at So confiderable a diftance from their boat, amongft people who were the next moment to be their murderers. What became of the boat I never could learn. Some faid fhe was pulled to pieces and burnt; others told us that fhe was carried, they knew not whither, by a party of drangers. We THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 129 We dayed here till the evening, when, having 1777. loaded the red of the boars with grafs, celery, February- fcurvy-grafs, &c, we embarked to return to the ffirp» We had prevailed upon Pedro to launch his canoe, and accompany us; but we had Scarcely put off from the fhore, when the wind began to blow very hard at North Wed, which obliged him to put back. We proceeded ourfelves, but it was with a good deal of difficulty that we could reach the fhips; where fome of the boats did not arehp: till one o'clock the next morning; and it was for-Mond. 17. tunate that they got on board then, -f$£it afterward blew a perfect dorm, with abundance of rain, fo that no manner of work could go forward that day. In the evening the gale ceafed, and the wh>id having veered to the Ead, brought with it fair weather. The next day we refumed our works ; the na-T«efd. i$» tives ventured out to catch fifh ; and Pedro, with all his family, came and took up his abode near us. This Chief's proper name is Marahbuah ; the other being given him by fome of my people during my lad Voyage, which I did not know till now. He was, however, equally well known amongd his countrymen by both names. On the 20th, in the forenoon, we had another Thurf, so. dorm from the North Wed, Though this was not of fo long continuance as the former, the gufts of wind from the hills were far more violent, infomuch that we were obliged to drike the yards and top-mafts to the very utmod; and, even with all this precaution, it was with difficulty that we rode it out. Thefe dorms are very frequent here, and Sometimes violent and troubleSome. The neighbouring mountains, which at thefe times are always loaded with vapours, not only increaSe the Sorce of the wind, but alter its direction in Vol. i. K fuch IjO A V 0 Y A GEA^T.jai 1777. fuch a manner, that no two blads follow each other ^b-t" w fr°m r^e ^ame <luarter; and the nearer the fhore, the more their effects are felt. The next day we were vifited by a tribe or family, confiding of about thirty perfons, men, women, and children, who came from the upper part of~jtlm> Sound. I had never feen them before. The name of their Chief was Tomaton- geauooranuc; a man of about forty-five years of age, with a cheerful open countenance. And, indeed, the red of his tribe were, in general, the handibmed of the New Zealand race I had ever met wiilsntNri By this time more than two-thirds of the inhabitants of the Sound had fettled themfelves about us. Great numbers of them daily frequented the Ships, and the encampment on fhore: but'the latter became, by far, the mod favourite place of refort, while our people there were melting fome feal blubber. No Greenlander was ever fonder of train-oil, than our friends here Seem to be. They relifhed th^yery (kimmings of the kettle, and dregs of the cafks ;>|njt a little of the pure flink- ing oil was a delicious fead, fo eagerly defired, that I fuppofed it is feldom enjoyed. Having got on board as much hay and grafs as we judged .fun^entfftft-'jferve the cattle till our arrival at Otaheite, and having completed the wood Sunday23. and water of both fhips, on the 2 3d we druck our tents, and carried every thing off from the Mond. 24" fhore ; and next morning we weighed anchor, and flood out of the Cove. But the wind not being very fair, and finding that the tide of ebb would be Spent before we could get out of the Sound, we cad anchor again a little without the ifland Mo- tuara, to wait for a more favourable opportunity of putting into the ftrait.. While 'HE PACIFIC OCEAN. 131 While we were unmooring and getting under 1777. fail, Tomatongeauooranuc, Matahouah, and ma-^^P ny more of the natives, came to take their leave' ~v_v-* of us, or rather to obtain, if they could, fome additional prefent from us before we left tl^m. Thefe two Chiefs became (tutors to me for fome goats, and hogs Accordingly, I gave to Matahouah two goats, amale and female with kid; and to Tomatongeauooranuc two pigs, a boar and a fow. They made me a promife not to kill them ; though I mud own I put no great faith in this. The animals which Captain Furneaux fent on fhore here, and which foon after fell into the hands of the natives, I was now told were all dead; but I could get no intelligence about the fate of thofe I had left in Weft Bay, and in Cannibal Cove, when I was here in the eourfe of my laft Voyage. However, all the natives whom I converfed with, agreed, that poultry are now to be met with wild in the woods behind Ship Cove; and 1 was afterward informed, by the two youths who went away with us, that Tiratou, a popular Chief amongft them, bad a great many cocks and hens in his feparate poffeSfion, and one of the fows. On my prefent arrival at this place, I fully intended to have left not only goats and hogs, but Sheep, and a young bull, with two heifers, if I could have found either a Chief powerful enough to protect and keep them, or a place where there might be a probability of their being concealed from thofe who would ignorantly attempt to def- troy them. But neither the one nor the other pr.efented itfelf to me. Tiratouyias now abfent; and Tringoboohee, whom I had met with during my lad Voyage *, and who feemed to be a perfon of much confequence at jhjj^iine, had been kill- e Cook's Voyage, VoL ii. p. 1 K 2 ed A VOYAGE TO >777- ed five months ago, with about feventy perfons ^J^Zj of his tribe; and I could not learn that there now remained in our neighbourhood any tribe, whofe numbers could fecure to them a fuperiority of power over the reft of their countrymen. To have given the animals to any of the natives who poffeded no fuch power, would not have anfwer- ed the intention. For in a country like this, where no man's property is fecure, they would foon have fallen a prey to different parties, and been either feparated or killed; but moft likely both. This was fo evident, from what we had obferved fince our arrival, that I had refolved to leave no kind of animal, till Matahouah and the other Chief Solicited me for the hogs and goats. As I could fpare them, I let them go, to take their chance. I have, at different times, left in New Zealand, no lefs than ten or a dozen hogs, befides thofe put on fhore by Captain Furneaux. It will be a little extraordinary, therefore, if this race fhould not increafe and be preferved here, either in a wild or in a domeftic ftate, or in both. We had not be6n long at anchor near Motuara, before three or four canoes, rilled with natives, came off to us from the South Eaft fide of the Sound ; and a brifk trade was carried on with them for the curiofities of this place. In one of thefe canoes was Kahoora, whom I have already mentioned as the leader of the party who cut off the crew of the Adventurer's boat. ThH was the third time he had vifited us, without betraying the fmalleft appearance of fear. I was afhore when he now arrived, but had got on board juft as he was going away. Omai, who had returned with me, prefently pointed him out, arrcr folicited me to (hoot him. Not fatisfied with • this, he addreffed himfelf to Kahoora, threatening THE PACIFIC OCEAN. i3i ing to be his executioner, if ever he prefumed to 1777. vifit US again. February. The New Zealander paid fo little regard to thefe *~ threats, that he returned, the next morning, with.Tuefd.s5,, his whole family, men, women, and children, to the number of twenty and upwards. Omai was the firft who acquainted me with his being along- fide the flfig, and defired to know if he fhould afk him to come on board. I told him he might; and accordingly he introduced the Chief into the cabin, faying, " There is Kahoora, kill him!" But, as if he had forgot his former threats, or were afraid that I fhould.4eall upon him to perform them, he immediately reffEpd. In a fhort time, however, he returned; and feeing the Chief unhurt, he expoftulated with me very earneftly, faying, " Why do you not kill him ? You tell ** me, if a man kills another in England, that " he is hanged for it. This man has killed ten, " and yet you will not kill him; though many " of his countrymen defire it, and it would be 1 very good." Omai's arguments, though Specious enough, having no weight with me, I de- fired him to afk the Chief, why he had killed Captain Furneaux's people? At this queftion, Kahoora folded his arms, hung down his head, and looked like one caught in a trap: And, I firmly believe, he expected inftant death. But no Sooner was he affured of his fafety, than he became cheerful. He did not, however, feem willing to give me an anfwer to the queftion that had been put to hirfi, till I had, again and again, 'repeated my promife that he fhould not be hurt. Then he ventured to tell us, That one of his countrymen having brought a done hatchet to barter, the man to whom it was offered, took it, and would neither return it, nor give any thing for it; on which the owner of it fnatched up 2 the VOYAGE TO ,,,7. the bread as an equivalent; and then the quarrel February, began. *""*"v"""'""' The remainder of Kahoora's account of this unhappy affair, differed very little from what we had before learnt, from the red of his countrymen. He mentioned the narrow efcape he had, during the fray; a mufquet being levelled at him, which he avoided by (kulking behind the boat | and anor ther man, who dood clofe to him, was fhot dead. As Soon as the muSquet was discharged, he in- ftantly Seized the opportunity to attack Mr. Rowe, who commanded the party, and who defended himfelf with his hanger (with which he wounded Kahoora in the arm), till he was overpowered by numbers. Mr. Burney, who was fent by Captain Furneaux the next day *, with an armed party, to look for his miffing people, upon discovering the horrid proofs of their (hocking fate, had fired feveral vollies amongft the crowds of natives who (till remained aflembied on the Spot, and were, probably, partaking of the deteftable banquet. It was natural to fuppoSe that he had not fired irt vain; and that, therefore, Some of the murderers and devourers of our unhappy countrymen had differed under our juft reSentment. Upon inquiry, however, into this matter, not only Srom Kahoora, but from others who had opportunities of knowing, it appeared that our fuppofition was groundleSs, and that not one of the fhot fired by Mr. Burney's people had taken effect, fo as to kill, or even to hurt, a fingle perfon. It was evident, that moft oS the natives we had met with fince our arrival,gas they knew I was fully acquainted with the hidory of the maSfacre, fayage, Vol, ii. p. 255— expected THE PACIFIC OCEAN. i expected I fhould avenge it with the death of 177 Kahoora. And many of them feemed not onlyFebru to wifh it, but expreffed their furprize at my for-^~v bearance. As he could not be ignorant of this, it was a matter of wonder to me, that he put himfelf fo often in my power. When he vifited us while the fhips lay in the Cove, confiding in the number of his friends that accompanied him, he might think himfelf fafe. But his two laft vifits had been made under fuch circumftances, that he could no longer rely upon this. We were then at anchor in the entrance of the Sound, and at fome diftance from any fhore; fo that he could not have any affiftance from thence, nor flatter himfelf he could have the means of making his efcape, had I determined to detain him. And yet, after his firft fears, on being interrogated, were over, he was fo far from entertaining any un- eafy lenSations, that, on Seeing a portrait of one of his countrymen hanging up in the cabin, he defired to have his own portrait drawn; and (at till Mr. Webber had finifhed it, without marking the leaft impatience. 1 muft confefs, 1 admired his courage, and was not a little pleafed to obferve the extent of the confidence he put in me. For he placed his whole fafety in the declarations 1 had uniformly made to thofe who Solicited his death, That I had always been a friend to them all, and would continue So, unleSs they gave me cauSe to act otherwise; that as to their inhuman treatment oS our people, I fhould think no more of it, the tranfaction having happened long ago, and when 1 was not prefent; but that, if ever they made a fecond attempt of that kind, they might reft affured of feeling the weight of my refentment. For fome time before we arrived at New Zea» land, Omai had expreffed a defire to take one pf the natives with him to his own country. We us VOYAGE TO rf-'j. We had not been there many days, before he ^™^had an opportunity of being gratified in this; for a youth about feventeen or eighteen years of age, named Taweiharooa, offered to accompany him ; and took up his refidence on board. I paid little attention to this at firft, imagining that he would leave us when we were about to depart, and after he had got what he could from Omai. At length, finding thas he was fixed in his refolution to go with us, and having learnt that he was the only Son of a deceafed Chief, and that his mother, dill living, was a woman much refpected here, I was apprehenfive that Omai had deceived him and his friends, by giving them hopes and affurances of his being Sent back. I therefore caufed it to be made known to them all, that if the young man went away with us, he would never return. But this declaration feemed to make no fort of impref- fion. The afternoon before we left the Cove, Tiratoutou, his mother, came on board, to receive her lad prefent from Omai. The fame evening, She and Taweiharooa parted, with all the marks of tender affection that might be expected between a parent and a child, who were never to meet again. But fhe Said She would cry no more; and, Sure enough, fhe kept her word. For when She returned the next morning, to take her laft farewell of him, all the time fhe was on board fhe remained quite cheerful, and went away wholly unconcerned. That Taweiharooa might be Sent away in a manner becoming his birth, another youth was to have gone with him as his Servant; and, with this view, as we Suppofed, he remained on board till we were about to Sail, when his friends took him afhore. IHfoi*e&§jjgfaisplace was Supplied, next morning, by another, a boy of about nine or ten years of J THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 137 age, named Kokoa. He was prefented to me by 1777. his own father, who, I believe, would have parted Februar7- with his dog with far lefs indifference. The very *-"""v-'^ little clothing the boy had, he (tripped him of, and left him as naked as he was born. It was to no purpofe that I endeavoured to convince thefe people of the improbability, or rather of the impofiibility, of thefe youths ever returning home. Not.-onfi not even their neareft relations, feemed to trouble themfelvesi^out their future fate. Since this was the cafe, and I was well fatisfied that the boys would be mb lofers by exchange of place, I the more readily gave my confent to their going. From my own obfervations, and from the information of Taweiharooa and others, it appears to me that the New Zealanders muft live under perpetual apprehenfions of being deftroyed by each other; there being few of their tribes that have not, as they think, fuftained wrongs from fome other tribe, which they are continually upon the watch to revenge. And, perhaps, the defire of a good meal may be no fmall incitement. I am told that many years will fometimes elapfe, before a favourable opportunity happens, and that the fon ' never lofes fight of an injury that has been done to his father. Their method of executing their horrible defigns, is by ftealing upon the adverfe party in the night; and if they find them unguarded (which, however, I believe, is very feldom the cafe), they kill every one indiscriminately ; not even fparing the women and children. When the maf- facre is completed, they either feaft and gorge themfelves on the fpot, or carry off as many of the dead bodies as they can, and devour them at home, with acts of brutality too fhocking to be defcribed. If they are difcovered before they can execute their bloody purpofe, they generally Steal off again; and Some- $.&M\V O Y A G E TO Sometimes are purfued and attacked by the other '• party, in their turn. To give quarter, or to take • prisoners, makes no part of their military law ; fo that the vanquished can only fave their lives by flight. This perpetual ftate of war, and destructive method of conducting it, operates So ftrongly in producing habitual circumSpection, that one hardly ever finds a New Zealander off his guard, either by night or by day. Indeed, no other man can have fuch powerful motives to be vigilant, as the prefervation both of body and of foul depends upon it. For, according to their fyftem of belief, the foul of the man whofe flefh is devoured by the enemy, is doomed to a perpetual fire, while the foul of the man whofe body has been refcued from thofe who killed him, as well as the fouls of all who die a natural death, afcend to the habitations of the Gods. I afked, Whether they eat the flefh of Such of their friends as had been killed in war, but whofe bodies were faved from falling into the enemy's hands ? They feemed-^iirprifed at the queftion, which they anfwered in the negative, expreffing fome abhorrence at the very idea. Their common method of difpofing of their dead, is by depofiting their bodies in the earth; but ifethey have more of their flaughtered enemies than they can eat, they throw them into the fea. They have no fuch thing as morals, or other places of public worfhip; nor do they ever aflem- ble together with this view. But they have Priefts, who alone addrefs the Gods in prayers, for the prosperity of their temporal affairs; Such an enterprise againft a hoftile tribe, a fifhing party, or the like. . Whatever the principles of their religion may be, of which we remain very ignorant, its inftructions are very Strongly inculcated into them from their THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 139 their very infancy. Of this I faw a remarkable 1777- inftance, in the youth who was firft deftined to^^^j accompany Taweiharooa. He refrained from eating the greateft part of the day, on account of his hair being cut; though every method was tried to induce him to break his refolution ; and he was tempted with the offer of fuch victuals as he was known to efteem the moft. He faid, if he eat any thing that day, the Eatooa would kill him. However, towards evening, the cravings of nature got the better of the precepts of his religion, and he eat, though but Sparingly. I had oSten conjectured, beSore this, that they had fome Superstitious notions about their hair, having frequently obferved quantities of it tied to the branches of trees near fome of their habitations; but what thefe notions are, 1 never could learn. Notwithstanding the divided and hoftile ftate in which the New Zealanders live, travelling Strangers, who come with no ill defign, are well received and entertained during their flay ; which, however, it is expected, will be no longer than is requifite to tranfact the bufineSs they Come upon. Thus it is that a trade Sor poenammoo, or green talc, is carried on throughout the whole northern ifland. For they tell us, that there is none of this (tone to be found, but at a place which bears its name, Somewhere about the head of Queen Charlotte's Sound, and not above one or two days journey, at moft, from the Station of our fhips. I regretted much that I could not Spare time Sufficient Sor paying a vifit to the place; as we were told a hundred fabulous dories about this done, not one of which carried with it the lead probability of truth, though fome of their mod fenfible men would have us believe them. One of thefe dories is, that this done is originally a fifh, which they Strike with a gig in 1 the i4o AVOYAGETO 1777, the water, tie a rope to it, and drag it to the Shore, l^^^to which they fallen it, and it afterward becomes (tone. As they all agree, that it is fifhed out of a large lake, or collection of waters, the moft probable coijjeeture is, that it is brought from the mountains, and depofited in the water, by the torrents. This lake is called by the natives Tavai Poenammoo; thai-st^ the water of Green Talc ; and it is only- the adjoining part of the country, and not the whole Southern ifland of New Zealand, that is known to them by the name which hath been given to it on my chart *. Polygamy, is allowed amongft thefe people; and it is not uncommon for a man to have two or three wives. The w^Bfien are marriageable at a very early age; and it fhould feem, that one who is unmarried, is but in a fit^rl^rri #ate. She can with difficulty get a fubfiftence ; at leaft, fhe is, in a great meafure, without a protector, though in constant want of a powerful one. The New Zealanders feem to be a people perfectly fatisfied with the little knowledge they are mailers of, without attempting, in the leaft, to improve it. Nor are they remarkably curious, either in their obfervations, or their inquiries. New objects do not Strike them with Such a degree of furprife as one would naturally expect; nor do they eve.fcfix their attention for a moment. Omai, indeed, who was a great favourite with them, would fometimes attract a circle about him; but they feemed to liften to his fpeeches, like perfons who neither underftood, nor wifhed to underftand, what they heard. One day, on our inquiring of Taweiharooa, how many fhips, Such as ours, had ever arrived in Queen s Chart of New Zealand, in Hawkef. -^8f THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ,4, Charlotte's Sound, or in any part of its neighbour- 1777. hood ? He began with giving an account of one February. abfolutely unknown to us. This, he faid, had put' '^~^J into a port on the North Weft coaft of Teerawitte, but a very few years before I arrived in'tbe Sound in the Endeavour, which the New Zealanders dif- tinguifh, by calling Tupia's fhip. At firft, I thought he might have been miftaken as to the time and place; and that the fhip in queftion might be either Monfieur Surville's, who is faid to have touched upon the North Eaft coaft of Eaheinomauwe, the fame year I was there in the Endeavour-, or elfe Monfieur Marion du Frefne's, who was in the Bay of Iflands, on the fame coaft, a few years after. But he allured us, that he was not miftaken, either as to the time, or as to the place of this (hip's arrival ; and that it was well known to every body about Queen Charlotte's Sound and Teerawitte. He faid, that the Captain of her, during his flay here, cohabited with a woman of the country; and that fhe had a fon by him ftill living, and about the age of Kokoa; who, though not born then, feemed to be equally well acquainted with the (lory. We were alfo informed by Taweiharooa, that this fhip firft introduced the venereal diSeaSe amongft the New Zealanders. I wifh that fubSequent vifiters from Europe may not have their fhare of guilt, in leaving fo dreadful a remembrance of them amongft this unhappy race. The diforder now is but too common here; though they do not feem to regard it; faying, that its effects are not near So pernicious at preSent, as they were at its firft appearance. The only method, as far as I ever heard, that they make ufe of as a remedy, is by giving the patient the ufe of a fort of hot bath, which they produce by the (team of certain green plants laid over hot (tones. I regretted A VOYAGE TO I regretted much that we did not hear of this fhip y- while we were in the Sound ; as, by means of Omai, we might have had full and correct information about her from eye-witneffes. For Ta- weiharooa's account was only from what he had been told, and therefore liable to many miftakes. I have not the leaft doubt, however, that his tef- titnony mayfo far be depended upon, as to induce us to believe, that a fhip really had been at Teerawitte prior to my arrival in the Endeavour, as it correfponds with what I had formerly heard. For in the latter end of 1773, the fecond time I vifited New Zealand, during my laft voyage, when we were continually making inquiries about the Adventure, after our feparation, fome of the natives informed us of a (hip's having been in a port on the coaft of Teerawitte. But, at that time, we thought we muft have mifunderftood them, and took no notice of the intelligence. The arrival of this unknown fhip has been marked by the New Zealanders with more caufe of remembrance, than the unhappy one juft mentioned. Taweiharooa told us, their country was indebted to her people for the prefent of an animal, which they left behind them. But as he had not feen it himfelf, no fort of judgment could be formed from hisdefcription, of what kind it was. We had another piece of intelligence from him, more correctly given, though not confirmed by our own obfervations, that there are fnakes and lizards there of an enormous fize. He defcribed the latter as being eight feet in length, and as big round as a man's body. He faid, they fometimes feize and devour men ; that they burrow in the ground ; and that they are killed by making fires at the mouths of the holes. We could not be miftaken as to the animal; for, with his own hand, he J THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 143 he drew a very good reprefentation of a lizard on a 1777. piece of paper; as alfo of a fnake, in order to fhew Februarr- what he meant. Though much has been faid, in the Narratives of my Two former Voyages, about this country and its inhabitants, Mr. Anderfon's Remarks, as ferving either to confirm or to correct our former accounts, may not be fuperfluous. He had been three times with me in Queen Charlotte's Sound, during my laft Voyage; and, after this fourth vifit, what he thought proper to record, may be confidered as the refult of fufficient obfervation. The Reader will find it in the next Chapter; and I have nothing farther to add, before I quit New Zealand, but to give fome account of the aftronomical and nautical obfervations made during our (lay there. The Longitude of the Obfervatory in Ship Cove, by a mean of 103 fets of obfervations, each fet confiding of fix or more obServed diftances, was - - 1740 25'15''Eaft. By the time-keeper, at Greenwich rate, it was - - 175 26 30 By ditto, at the Cape rate, it was 17456 12 Variation of the compaSs, being the mean of fix needles, obferved on board the fhip - 12 40 o Eaft. By the fame needles on fhore, it was - - - 13 53 o The dip of the South end, obferved on fhore, was 63 42 o By a mean of the refults of eleven days obfervations, the time-keeper was too flow for mean time, on February 22 at noon, by nh 50' 37",396; and (he was found to be lofing on mean time, 144 A VOYAGE TO 1777- time, at the rate of 2",913 per day. From this y^J^^j rate the longitude will be computed, till fome other opportunity offers to afcertain her rate anew. The aftronomical clock, with the fame length of pendulum as at Greenwich, was found to be lofing on fidereal time 40",239 per day. It will not be amifs to mention, that the longitude, by lunar observations, as above, differs only 6' 45" from what Mr. Wales made it during my laft Voyage ; his being fo much more to the Weft, or 174° 18*30*. The latitude of Ship Cove is 41° 6* 0% as found by Mr. Wales, CHAP. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. CHAP. VIII. Mr. Anderfon's Remarks on the Country near Queen Charlotte's Sound.— The Soil—Climate.—leather.-—Winds.—Trees.—Plants.—Birds. — Fifb. -*-Other Animals.—Of the Inhabitants.—Defcrip- tion of their Perfons.—Their Drefs.—Ornaments. Habitations.—Boats. — Food and Cookery.—Arts. -—Weapons.—Cruelty to Prifoners.—Various Cuftoms.—Specimen of their Language. THE land every where about Queen Char- 1777. lotte's Sound is uncommonly mountainous, Februai7 rifing immediately from the fea into large hills vr~"~ with blunted tops. At confiderable diftances are valleys, or rather impreffions on the fides of the hills, which are not deep; each terminating toward the fea in a fmall cove, with a pebbly or fandy beach ; behind which are fmall flats, where the natives generally build their huts, at the fame time hauling their canoes upon the beaches. This fituation is the more convenient, as in every cove a brook of very fine water (in which are fome fmall trout) empties itfelf into the fea. The bates of thefe mountains, at leaft toward the fhore, are conftituted of a brittle, yellowifh fand-ftone, which acquires a bluifh cad, where the fea wafhes it. It runs, at fome places, in horizontal, and, at other places, in oblique jlrata; being. frequently divided, at fmall diftances, by thin Vol. I. L veins 146 A VOYAGE TO. 1777. veins of coarfe quartz, which commonly follow the ^^T-direction 0f the other; though they fometimes in- terfect it. The mould, or foil, which covers this, is alfo of a yellowifh eaft, not unlike marl; and is commonly from a foot to two, or more, in thick- nefs. The quality of this foil is bed indicated by the luxuriant growth of its productions. For the hills (except a few toward the fea, which are covered with fmaller bufhes) are one continued foreft of lofty trees, flourishing with a vigour almoft Superior to any thing that imagination can conceive, and affording an auguft proSpect to thofe who are delighted with the grand and beautiful works of nature. The agreeable temperature of the climate, no doubt, contributes much to this uncommon Strength in vegetation. For at this time, though anfwering to our month of Auguft, the weather was never diSagreeably warm $ nor did it raiSe the thermometer higher than 66°. The winter, alfo, feems equally mild with refpect to cold: for in June 1773, which corresponds to our December, the mercury never fell lower than 480; and the trees, at that time, retained their verdure, as if in the Summer feafon; fo that, I believe, their,foliage is never Shed, till pufhed off by the fucceeding leaves in fpring. The weather, in general, is good; but fometimes windy, with heavy rain; which, however, never lads above a day, nor does it appear that it is ever exceflive. For there are no marks of torrents rufhing down the hills, as in many countries; and the brooks, if we may judge from their chaay nels, feera never to be greatly incrcafed. I have obferved, in the four different times of my being here, that the winds from the South Eaftward are commonly THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 14; commonly moderate, but attended with cloudy 1777. weather, or rain. The South Weft winds blow February. very Strong, and are alSo attended with rain; but V"""V"~"'J they Seldom laft long. The North Weft winds are the moft prevailing; and though often pretty Strong, are almoft conftantly connected with fine weather. In Short, the only obftacle to this being one of the fined countries upon earth, is its great hillinefs; which, allowing the woods to be cleared away, would leave it lefs proper for padurage than flat land ; and ftill more improper for cultivation, which could never be effected here by the plough. The large trees which cover the hills are chiefly of two forts. One of them, of the fize of our largeft firs, grows much after their manner; but the leaves, and fmall berries on their points, are much liker the yew. It was this which fupplied the place of fpruce in making beer; which we did with a Strong decoction of its leaves, fermented with treacle or fugar. And this liquor, when well prepared, was acknowledged to be little inferior to the American fpruce beer, by thofe who had experience of both. The other fort of tree is not unlike a maple ; and grows often to a great fize; but it only ferved for fuel, as the wood, both of this and of the preceding, was found to be rather too heavy for mads, yards, and other Similar repairs. There is a greater variety of trees on the fmall flat fpots behind the beaches. Amongd thefe are two that bear a kind of plum of the fize of prunes; the one yellow, called karraca ; and the other black, called maitao; but neither of them of a very agreeable tade; though the natives eat both, and our people did the fame. Thofe of the firft fort grow on fmall trees, always facing the fea f L 2 but 148 A VOYAGE TO 1777- but the others belong to larger trees that Stand far-* February. t^er wjmjn the wood, and which we frequently cut down Sor fuel. A fpecies olI Philadelpbus grows on the eminences which jut out into the Sea ; and alSo a tree bearing flowers almoft like myrtle, with roundiSh Spotted leaves of a diSagreeable Smell. We drank the leaves of the Pbiladelpbus as tea; and found that they had a pleafant tafte and fmell, and might make an excellent fubftitute for the oriental fort. Among other plants that were ufeful to us, may be reckoned wild celery, which, grows plentifully in almoft every cove; especially if the natives have ever refided there before; and one that we uSed to call Scurvy-graSs, though entirely different from the plant to which we give that name. This, however, is far preferable to ours for common ufe; and may be known by its jagged leaves, and fmall clufters of white flowers on the top. Both forts were boiled every morning, with wheat ground in a mill, and with portable foup, for the people's breakfaft j and alfo amongft their peaSe- foup, for dinner. Sometimes they were ufed as fallad, or dreffed as greens. In all which ways they are good; and together with the fifh, with which we were conftantly fupplied, they formed a fort of refrefhment, perhaps little inferior to what is to be met with in places moft noted by navigators for plentiful fupplies of animal and vegetable food. Amongft the known kinds, of plants met with here, are common and rough bindweed; nightshade and nettles, both which grow to the fize of fmall trees; a Shrubby Speedwell, found near all the beaches; fow-thiftles, virgin's bower, vanelloe, French THE P A;C}| PIC OCEAN: 149 French willow, euphorbia, and crane's-bill: alfo 1777. cudweed, rufhes, bull-rufhes, flax, all-heal, Ame- February, rican night-fhade, knot-grafs, brambles, eye-U~"v"~^- bright, and groundfel; but the fpecies of each are different from any we have in Europe. There is alfo polypody, Spleenwort, and about twenty other different forts of ferns, entirely peculiar to the place ; with feveral forts of mofles, either rare, or produced only here; befides a great number of other plants, whofe ufes are not yet known, and fubjects fit only Sor botanical books. Of thefe, however, there is one which deferves particular notice here, as the natives make their garments of it, and it produces a fine filky flax, Superior in appearance to any thing we have ; and probably, at leaft, as Strong. It grows every where near the Sea, and in Some places a confiderable way up the hills, in bunches or tuSts, with fedge-like leaves, bearing, on a long (talk, yellowifli flowers, which are fucceeded by a long roundifh pod, filled with very thin Shining black Seeds. A Species of long pepper is found in great plenty; but it has little of the aromatic flavour that makes Spices valuable; and a tree much like a palm at a diftance, ,i| .pretty frequent in the woods, though the deceit appears as you come near it. It is remarkable that, as the greateft part of the trees and plants had, at this time, loft their flowers, we perceived they were generally of the berry-bearing kind; of which, and other feeds, I brought away about thirty different forts. Of thefe, one in particular, which bears a red berry, is, much like the Supple-jack, and grows about the trees, ftretching from one to another, in fuch a manner as to render the woods almoft wholly impaffable. The IJO A VOYAGE TO 1777. The birds, of which there is a tolerable dock, February. as wejj as the vegetable productions, are almoft v-"*-* entirely peculiar to the place. And though it be difficult to follow them, on account of the quantity of underwood and the climbing plants, that redder travelling, for pleafure alone, uncommonly fatiguing, yet a perfon, by remaining in one place, may Shoot as many in a day as would Serve fix or eight others. The principal forts are, large brown parrots, with white or greyifh heads • green par- roquets, with red foreheads; large wood pigeons, brown above, with white bellies, the reft green, and the bill and feet red. Two forts of cuckoos, one as large as Out-common fort, of a brown colour, variegated with black; the other not larger than a fparrow, of a fplendid green eaft above, and elegantly varied with waves of golden, green, brown, and white colours below. Both thefe are fcarce; but feveral others are in greater plenty; one of which, of a black colour, with a green- ifli eaft, is remarkable for having a tuft of white curled feathers banging under the throat, and was called the Pay bird by our people. Another fort, rather Smaller, is black, with a brown back and wings, and two Small gills under the root of the bill- This we called the Small wattle bird, to distinguish it from another, which we called the large one, of the fize of a common pigeon, with two large yellow and purple membranes alfo, at the root of the bill. It is black, or rather blue, and has no refemblance of the other but in name; for the bill is thick, Short, and crooked, and has altogether an uncommon appearance. A groSs-beak, about the fize of a thrufh, of a brown colour, with a reddifh tail, is frequent; as is alfo a fmall greenifh bjrd, which is almoft the only mufical one here, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. iSj here, but is fufficient by itfelf to fill the woods 1777. with a melody, that isnotonlyfweet, but fo varied,February* that one would imagine he was furrounded by a hundred different forts of birds, when the little warbler is near. From this circumftance we named it the mocking bird. There are likewife three or four forts of fmaller birds; one of which, in figure and tametiefs, exactly refembles our robin, but is black where that is brown, and white where that is red. Another differs but little from this, except in being fmaller; and a third fort has a long tail, which it expands as a fan on coming near, and makes a chirping noife when it perches. King- fifhers are feen, though rare, and are about the fize ef our Englifh ones, but with an inferior plumage. About the rocks are feen black fea-pies with red bills; and crefted (hags of a leaden colour, with fmall black fpots on the wings and fhoulders, and the reft of the upper part, of a velvet black tinged with green. We frequently fhot both thefe, and alfo a more common fort of fhags, black above and white underneath, that build their nefts upon trees, on which fometimes a dozen or more fit at once. There are alfo, about the Shore, a few fea- gulls; fome blue herons; and fometimes, though very rarely, wild ducks; a fmall fandy coloured plover, and fome fand larks. And fmall penguins black above, with a white belly, as well as numbers of little black divers, fwim often about the Sound. We likewife killed two or three rails of a brown or yellowifh colour, variegated with black, which feed about the fmall brooks, and are nearly as large as a common fowl. No other fort of game was feen, except a fingle ftvipe, which was fhot, and differs but little from that of Europe. The- A VOYAGE TO The principal fifh we caught by the Seine were February, mullets and elephant fifh, with a few foles and *~ 'flounders; but thofe that the natives moftly Supplied us with, were a Sort of fea-bream of a filver colour with a black Spot on the neck, large Conger eels, and a fifh in Shape much like the bream, but fo large as to weigh five, fix, or Seven pounds. It is blackiSh with thick lips, and called Mogge by the natives. With hook and line we caught chiefly a blackifh fifh of the fize of a haddock, called eole-fiSh by the Seamen, but differing much from that known by the Same name in Europe; and another of the fame fize, of a reddiSh colour with a little beard, which we called night walkers, from the greateft number being caught in the night. Sometimes we got a Sort of fmall falmon, gurnards, Skate, and nurfes; and the natives, now and then, brought hake, paracutas, a Small fort of mackerel, parrot-fiSh, and leather jackets; befides another fifh which is very rare, Shaped almoft like a dolphin, of a black colour, with Strong bony jaws, and the back-fin, as well as thoSe oppofite to it, much lengthened at the end. All theSe Sorts, except the laft, which we did not try, are excellent to eat; but the Mogge, Small Salmon, and cole-fiSh are Superior to the reft. The rocks are abundantly furnifhed with great quantities of excellent mufcles; one fort of which, that is not very common, meafures above a foot in length. There are alfo cockles buried in the fand of the fmall beaches; and in fome places oyfters, which, though very Small, are well taSt* ed. Of other Shell-fifh there are ten or twelve forts, fuch as periwincles, wilks, limpets, and' fome very beautiful Sea-ears; alfo another fort which Stick to the weeds ; with fome other things, as fea-eggs, Star-fiSh, &c. feveral of which are peculiar THE PACIFIC OCEAN. J53 ctiliat to the place. § The natives likewife fome- 1777- times brought us very fine cray-fifh, equal to our Febr"^v largeft lobfters, and cuttle fifh, which they eat themfelves. Infects are very rare. Of thefe, we only-^iir two forts of dragon-flies, fome butterflies, fmall grafhoppers, fevefal forts of fpiders, fome fmall black ants, and vaft numbers of fcorpion flies, with whoSe chirping the woods reSound. The only noxious one is the Sand-fly, very numerous here, and almoft as troublefome as the muSquitoe; for we Sound no reptile here, except two or three forts of Small harmleSs lizards *. It is remarkable, that, in this extenfive land, there fhould not even be the traces of any quadruped, only excepting a few rats, and a fort of fox- v clog, which is a domeftic animal with the natives. Neither is there any mineral worth notice, but a green jafper or ferpent-ftone, of which the New- Zealanders make their tools and ornaments. This is efteemed a precious article by them; and they have fome fuperftitious notions about the method of its generation, which we could not perfectly understand. It is plain, however, that wherever it may be found (which, they fay, is in the channel of a large river far to the Southward), it is difpofed in the earth in thin layers, or, perhaps, in detached pieces, like our flints; for the edges of thofe pieces, which have not been cut, are covered with a whit- ifh cruft like thefe. A piece of this fort was pur- chafed, about eighteen inches long, a foot broad, and near two inches thick; which yet feemed to be only the fragment of a larger piece. * In a feparate memorandum-book, Mr. Anderfon i the monfirous animal of the lizard kind, defcribed by the two boys after they left the illand. The A VOYAGE TO 7- The natives do not exceed the common Stature ^Jj of Europeans; and, in general, are not fo well made, efpecially about the limbs. This is, perhaps, the effect of fitting, for the moft part, on their hams; and of being confined, by the hilly difpofition of the country, from ufing that Sort of ex- ercife which contributes to render the body Straight and well-proportioned. There are, however, Several exceptions to this; arid fome are remarkable for their large bones and muScles; but few that I have feen are corpulent. Their colour is of different cafts, from a pretty deep black to a yellowish or olive tinge; and their features alfo are various, fome refembling Europeans. But, in general, their faces are round, with their lips full, and alfo their noSes toward the point j though the firft are not uncommonly thick, nor the laft flat. I do not, however, recollect to have feen an inftanceof the true aquiline nofe amongft them. Their teeth are commonly broad, white, and well fet; and their eyes large, with a very free motion, which feems the effect of habit. Their hair is black, ftraight, and drong, commonly cut Short on the hind part, with the red tied on the crown of the head : but fome have it of a curling difpofition, or ©f a brown colour. In the youngs the countenance is generally free or open; but in many of the men it has a Serious eaft, and Sometimes a fullennefs or referve, efpecially if they are ftrangers. The women are, in general, finalier than the men; but have few peculiar graces, either in form or features, to<di(tingui(h them. The drefs of both fexes is alike; and confifts of an oblong garment about five Seet long, and four broad, made from the Silky flax already mentioned. This feems to be their mod material and complex manufacture, which is executed by knotting ; and their THE PAWfIC OCEAN. 155 thdf work is often ornamented with pieces of dog- i*m* Skin, or chequered at the corners. They bring Feiruw3r' two corners of this garment over the Shoulders, and v""~v-»"' fallen it on the bread witlr^he other part, which covers the body ; and about the belly,;* is again tied with a girdle made of mat4>j|fcinetimes they cover it with large feathers of birds (which feem to be wrought into the piece of cloth when it is made), or with dog-(kin ; and that alone we have feen worn as a covering. Over this garment many of them wear mats, which reach from the Shoulders to near the heels. But the moft common &4%§p> covering is a quantity of the above fedgy plant, badly drefled, which they faften on a ftring to a tonnderable length, and, throwing it abcftifci|sita£ Shoulders, let it fall down on all fides, as far as the middle of the thighs. When they fit down with this upon them, either in their boats, or upon the fhore, it would be difficult to diftingutfh them from large jgrey (tones, if their black heads, projecting beyond their coverings, did not engage one to a Stricter examination. By way of ornament, they fix in their heads feathers, or combs of bone, or wood, adorned with pearl (hell, or the thin iwt©£- fcin of fome leaf. And in the ears, both of men and women, which are pierced, or rather flit, are hung Small pieces of jafper, bits of cloth, or beads when they can get them. A few alfo have ik&feptwn of the nofe bored in its lower part; but no ornament was worn there that we faw; though one man paffed a twig through it, to (hew us that it was fometimes ufed for that purpofe. They wear long beards, but are fond of having them Shaved.; Some are punctured or ftain>ed to the face with curious Spiral and other figure^W a black or deep blue colour; but it is doublful whether this be 156 AVOYAGETO 1777- be ornamental, or intended as a mark of par- ^™^ ticular distinction; and the women, who are marked fo, have, the puncture only on their lips, or a fmall Spot on their chins. Both Sexes often befmear their faces and heads with a red paint, which feems to be a martial ochre'raixed with greafe; and the women fometimes wear necklaces of Shark's teeth, or bunches of long beads, which feem to be made of the leg-bones of fmall birds, or a particular Shell. A few alfo have fmall triangular aprons adorned with the feathers of parrots, or bits of pearl Shells, furnifhed with a double or treble fet of cords to faften them about the waift. I have fometimes feen caps or bonnets made of the feathers of birds, which may be reckoned as ornaments; for it is not their cuftom to wear any covering on their heads. They live in the fmall coves formerly deScribed, in companies of forty or fifty, or more; and Sometimes Tn fingle families, building their huts contiguous to each other; which, in general, are miferable lodging-places. The beft I ever faw was about thirty feet long, fifteen broad, and fix. high, built exactly in the manner of one of : ©tpr.i.country barns. The infide was both Strong and regularly made of fupporters at the fides, alternately large and fmall, well faftened by means . of withes, and painted red and black. The ridge pole was Strong; and the large bull-rufhes, which " compofed the inner part of the thatching, were laid with great exactnefs parallel to each other. At one end was a fmall fquare hole, which ferv- ed as a door to creep in at; and near it another much fmaller, feemingly for letting out the fmoke, as no other vent for it could be feen. This, however, ought to be confidered as one of the beft, and the refidencc of fome principal perfon; for i the THE PACIFIC OCEAN 157 •the greateft part of them are not half the above 1777. fize, and Seldom exceed four feet in height; being, February befides, indifferently built, though proof againft wind and rain. No other furniture is to be feen in them, than a few fmall bafkets or bags, in which they put their fifhing-hooks, and other trifles; and they fit down in the middle round a fmall fire, where they alfo probably deep, without any other covering than what they wear in the day, or perhaps without that; as fuch confined places muft be very warm, though inhabited but by a few perfons. They live chiefly by fifhing, making ufe either of nets of different kinds, or of wooden fifh hooks pointed with bone; but fo oddly made, that a Stranger is at a lofs to know how they can an- fwer fuch a purpofe. It alfo appears, that they remove their habitations from one place to another when the fifh grow fearce, or for fome other reafon; for we found houfes now built in feveral parts, where there had been none when we were here during our laft voyage, and even thefe have been already deferted. Their boats are well built, of planks raifed upon each other, and fattened with Strong withes, which alfo bind a long narrow piece on the out- fide of the feams* to prevent their leaking. Some are fifty feet long, and fo broad as to be able to fail without an outrigger; but the fmaller fort commonly have one; and they often fatten two together by rafters, which we then call a double canoe. They carry from five to thirty men or more; and have often a large head ingenioufly carved, and painted with a figure at the point, which feems intended to reprefent a man, with his features diftorted by rage. Their paddles are about four or five feet long, narrow, and pointed; with which, when they keep time, the boat iS8 A VOYAGE'T O ' 1777. boat is pufhed along pretty fwiftly. Their fail, February. which is Seldom ufed, is made of av mat of a v~u—' triangular Shape, having the broadeft part above. The only method of drefling their fifh, is by foafting, or rather baking; for they are intirely ignorant of the art of boiling. In the fame m»n- ner they drefs the root, and part of the ftalk, of the large fern-tree, in a great hole dug for that purpofe, which Serves as an oven. After which they Split it, and find, within, a fine gelatinous Subftance, like boiled fago powder, but firmer. They alSo ufe another fmaller fern root* which feems to be their fubftitute for bread, as it is dried and carried about with them, together with dried fifh in great quantities, when they remove their families, or go far from home. This they beat with a Stick till it becomes pretty Soft, when they chew it fufficiently, and Spit - out the hard fibrous part, the other having a fweetifh mealy tafte not at all difagreeable. When they dare not venture to fea, or per* baps from choice, they fupply the place of other fifh with mufcles and fea-ears; great quantities of the Shells of which lie in heaps near their houfes. And they Sometimes, though rarely, find means to kill rails, penguins, and Shags, which bdp to vary their diet. They'aifo breed considerable numbers of the dogs, mentioned before, for food; but thefe cannot be confidered as a principal article of <$iet. From whence we may con- dude, that, as there is not the leaft fign of cultivation of land, they depend principally for their fubfiftence on the Sea, which, indeed, is very bountiful in its fupply. Their method or feeding corresponds with the naftinefs of their perfons, which often fmell dif- agreeably from the quantity of greafe about them, and THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 159 and their clothes never being wafhed. We have 1777. feen them eat the vermin, with which their heads February. are fufficiently Slocked. v *"
"" however, be a matter of curiofity to know, particularly, their method of fubfiftence; for our friend Mourooa told us, that they had no animals, as hogs and dogs, both which, however, they had heard of; but acknowledged they had plantains, bread-fruit, and'taro. The only birds we faw, were fome white egg-birds, terns, and noddies ; and one white heron, on the Shore. The language of the inhabitants of Mangeea is a dialect of that Spoken at Otaheite ; though their pronunciation, as that of the New Zealanders, be more guttural. Some of their words, of which two or three are perhaps peculiar to this ifland, are here fubjoined, as taken, by Mr. Anderfon, from Omai, who had learnt them in his conversations with Mourooa. The Otaheite words, where there is any refemblanee, are placed oppofite. Englifh. Mangeea. Otaheite. A cocoa nut, Eakkaree, Aree. Bread-fruit, Kooroo, Ooroo. A canoe, Ewakka, Evaa. Friend, Naoo, mou. A man, Taata, or Tangata, Taata, Cloth, or cloth Taia, taiaaoutee, Eoute. plant, Good, Mata, Myty. A club, Pooroohee. Tes, Aee, Ai. No, Aoure, Aoure. Afpear, Hey hey. A fight, or battle, Etamagee, Tamaee. A woman, Waheine, Waheine. Vol. I. N m Englifh. VOYAGE TO Mangeea. Otaheite. Maheine, Maheine, Heetaiamatooa. Ou, Wou, Euta, Euta. Ehataieee ? Owytaieeoa? Oo. Ereekee, Eree. A daughter, The fun, I, Tl-ie/hore, What is that ? There, A chief, /- ! .. ^ a,i S Manna (an adi'uncl Great, or powerful, [ totb;idfi)/ To kifs, Ooma. The natives of Mangeea Seem to refemble thofe of Otaheite and the Marquefas in the beauty of their perSons, more than any other nation I have feen in theSe Seas; having a Smooth fkin, and not being mufcular. Their general difpofition alfo correSponds, as far as we had opportunities of judging, with that which distinguishes the firft mentioned people. For they are not only cheerful, but, as Mourooa fhewed us, are acquainted with all the lafcivious gesticulations which the Ota- heiteans practife in their dances. It may alfo be fuppofed, that their method of living is Similar. For, though the nature of the country prevented our feeing many of their habitations, we obferved one houfe near the beach, which much refem- bled, in its mode of conftruction, thofe of Otaheite. It was pleafantly fituated in a grove of trees, and appeared to be about thirty feet long, and feven or eight high, with an open end, which reprefented an ellipfe divided tranfverfely. Before it, was fpread fomething white on a few bufhes; which we conjectured to be a fifhing net, and, to appearance, of a very delicate texture. They THE P A C I F FG> OCEAN. They Salute Strangers much after the manner of the New Zealanders, by joining nofes; adding J however, the additional ceremony of taking the hand of the perfon to whom they are paying civilities, and rubbing it with a degree of force upon their nofe and mouth *. * The inhabitants of the Palaos, New Philippine, or rather Caroline Iflands, at the diftance of almoft fifteen hundred leagues from Mangeea, have the fame mode of falutation. " Leur ci- " vilite, & la marque de leur refpe6t, confifte a prendre la main " ou le pied de celui a qui ils veulent faire hoimeur, & s'en " frotter doucement tout le vifage." Lettres Edifiantes & Cu- rieufes, Tom. xv. p. 308. Edit. 1781. N 2 CHAP. A VOYAGE TO CHAP. II. The Difcovery of an Iffemd called Wateeoo. — Its Coafts examined. — Viflts from the Natives on board the Ships.—Meff. Gore, Burney, and Anderfon, with Omai, fent on Shore.—Mr. Anderfon's Narrative of their Reception.—Omai's Expedient to prevent their being detained.—His meeting with fome of his Countrymen, and their dif- trefsful Voyage. — Farther Account of Wateeoo, and of its Inhabitants. AFTER leaving Mangeea, on the afternoon of the 30th, we continued our eourfe North- ,. ward all that night, and till noon on the 31ft; • when we again faw land, in the direction of North Eaft by North, diftant eight or ten leagues. Next morning, at eight o'clock, we had got abreaft of its North end, within four leagues of it, but to leeward; and could now pronounce it to be an ifland, nearly of the fame appearance and extent with that we had fo lately left. At the fame time, another ifland, but much fmaller, was ken right ahead. We could have foon reached this; but the largeft one had the. preference, as moft likely to furnifh. a fupply of food for the cattle, of which we began to be in great want. With this view I determined to work up to it; but as there was but little wind, and that little was unfavour- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. *8t - unfavourable, we were ftill two leagues to leeward 1777. at eight o'clock the following morning. Soon^^"1, after, I fent two armed boats from the Refolution, wedn.a, and one from the Difcovery, under the command of Lieutenant Gore, to look for anchoring-ground, and a landing-place. In the mean time, we plyed up under the ifland with the fhips. Juft as the boats were putting off, we obferved feveral fingle canoes coming from the fhore. They went fird to the Difcovery, fhe being the neared fhip. It was not long after, when three of thefe canoes came along-fide of the Refolution, each conducted by one man. They are long and narrow, and fupported by outriggers. The flern is elevated about three or four feet, fomething like a Ship's dern-pod. The head is flat above, but prow-like below, and turns down at the extremity, like the end of a violin. Some knives, beads, and other trifles were conveyed to our vifiters ; and they gave us a few cocoa-nuts, upon our afking for them. But they did not part with them by way of exchange for what they had received from us. For they feemed to have no idea of bartering; nor did they appear to eftimate any .ij&JBtrt prefentsat a high rate. With a little perfuafion, one of them made his canoe fad to the (hip, and came on board; and the other two, encouraged by his example, foon followed him. Their whole behaviour marked that they were quite at their eafe, and felt no fort of apprehenfion of our detaining, or ufing them ill. After their departure, another canoe arrived, conducted by a man who brought a bunch of plantains as a prefent to me; afking for me by name, having learnt it from Omai, who was Sent before us in the boat with Mr. Gore. In return for this civility, A VOYAGE TO civility, I gave him an axe, and a piece of red cloth ; and he paddled back to the Shore well fa- tisfied. I afterward understood from Omai, that this prefent had been Sent from the king, or principal Chief of the ifland. Not long after, a double canoe, in which were twelve men, came toward us. As they drew near the fhip, they recited Some words in concert, by way of chorus *, one of their number firft ftand- ing up, and giving the word before each repetition. When they had finished, their folemn. chant, they came along-fide, and afked for the Chief. As foon as I Shewed mySelf, a pig and a few cocoa-nuts were conveyed up into the fhip ; and the principal perfon in the canoe made me an additional prefent of a piece of matting, as foon as he and his companions got on board. Our vifiters were conducted into the cabin, and to other parts of the fhip. Some objects feemed to drike them with a degree of Surprife ; but nothtaufixed their attention for a moment. They were afraid to come near the cows and horfes; nor did they form the lead conception of their nature. But the fheep and goats did not fur- pafs the limits of their ideas; for they gave us to underdand, that they knew them, to be birds. It will appear rather incredible, that human ignorance * Something like this ceremony was performed by the inhabitants of the Marquefas, when Captain Cook vifited them in 1774. See his Voyage, Vol. i. p. 30r. It is curious to obferve, at what immenfe diftances this mode of receiving ftrangers prevails. Padillo, who failed from Manilla in 1710, on a voyage to difcover the Palaos Iflands, was thus received there. The writer of the relation of his voyage fays, " Auffitot qu'ils " approcherent de notre bord, ils fe mirent a chanter. Us re- " gloient la cadence, en frappant des mains fur leurs cuiffes." Lettres Edifiantes & Curieufes, Tom. xv. p. 323. could * THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Could ever make fo flrange a miftake; there not being the mod didant fimilitude between a fheep or goat, and any winged animal. But thefe peo- *" pie feemed to know nothing of the exidence of any other land-animals, befides hogs, dogs, and birds. Our fheep and goats, they could fee, were very different creatures from the two firft, and therefore they inferred, that they mud belong to the latter clafs, in which they knew there is a confiderable variety of fpecies. I made a prefent to my new friend of what I thought might be moft acceptable to him ; but, on his going away, he feemed rather difappointed than pleafed. I afterward underftood that he was very defirous of obtaining a dog, of which animal this ifland could not boaft, though its inhabitants knew that the race exifted in other iflands of their ocean. Captain Clerke had received the like prefent, with the fame view, from another man, who met with from him the like difappointment. The people in thefe canoes were in general of a middling fize, and notunlike thofe of Mangeea ; though feveral were of a blacker cad than any we faw there. Their hair was tied on the crown of the head, or flowing loofe about the Shoulders; and though in Some it was of a frizzling difpofition, yet, for the mod part, that, as well as the flraight fort, was long. Their features were various, and fome of the young men rather handfbme. Like thofe of Mangeea, they had girdles of glazed cloth, or fine matting, the ends of which, being brought betwixt their thighs, covered the adjoining parts. Ornaments, compofed of a fort of broad grafs, dained with red, and drung with berries of the night-fhade, were worn about their necks. Their ears were bored, but not flit; and they were punctured upon the legs, from the knee VOYAGE TO to the heel, whi^fcmade them appear as if they i wore a kind of boots. They alfo refembled the y~'_ inhabitants of Mangeea in the length of their beards, and, like them, wore a fort of fandals upon their feet. Their behaviour was frank and cheerful, with a great deal of good-nature. At three o'clock in the afternoon, Mr. Gore returned with the boat, and informed me, that he had examined all the Wed fide of the ifland, without finding a place where a boat could land, or the fhips could anchor, the fhore being every where bounded by a deep coral rock, againd which the fea broke in a dreadful furf. But as the natives Seemed very friendly, and to exprefs a degree of y>-4tfap^)ointment when they faw that our people -^ failed in their attempts to land, Mr. Gore was of sS^ opkiion, that by means of Omai, who could bed , J/^,j> ' explain our requed, they might be prevailed upon 'fy> -/"JMp£ftg off to the boats, beyond the furf, fuch articles as we mod wanted; in particular, the dems of "plantain trees, which make good food for the cattle. Having little or no wind, the delay of a day or two was not of any monieiftt; and therefore I determined to try the experiment, and got every thing ready againd the next morning. Soon after day-break, we obferved Some canoes coming off to the (hips, and oriessf them directed ks eourfe to the Refolution, In it was a hog, vwakfome plantains and cocoa nuts, for which the people, who brought them, demanded a dog from us, and refufed every other thing that we offered in exchange. One of our gentlemen on board, happened to have a dog and a bitch, which were great nuifances in the fhip, and might have been difpofed of on this occafion for a purpofe of real utility, by propagating a race of So uSeful an animal in this ifland. But ifkeir owner had no Such views, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. views, in making them the companions of his voy- j age. However, to gratify thefe people, Omai part- 1 ed with a favourite dog h#had brought from Eng-W land ; and with this acquifition they departed highly Satisfied. About ten o'clock, I difpatched Mtti-I|bi6i8$ifij three boats, two from the Refolution, and one from the Difcovery, to try the experiment he had pro- poSed, And, as I could confide in his diligence and ability, I left it entirely to himfelf, to act as, from circumdances, he Should judge to be moft proper. Two of the natives, who had been on board, accompanied him, and Omai went with him in his boat as an interpreter. The fhips being a full kague from the ifland when the boats put off, , and having but little wind, it i£a*;noon before we could work up to it. We then faw our three boats Jfidfeg at their grapplings, jud without the furf, and a prodigious number of the natives on the fhore, abread of them. By this we concluded, that Mr. $f®$®, and others of our people, had landed, and our impatience to know the event may be eafily conceived, in order to obferve their motions, and to be ready to give them fuch affidance as they t@%ht want, and our refpective Situations would admit of, I kept as near the Sniffle as was prudent. I was fenfible, however, that the reef was as effectual a barrier between us and our friends who had landed, and put them as much beyond the reach of our protection, as if half the circumference of the globe had intervened. Hat'the iflandesstut was probable, did not know this fo well as we did. Some of them, now and then, came off to the fhips in their canoes, with a few cocoa nuts; which they exchanged for whatever wl»offered to them, without Seeming to give the preference to any particular article. Thefe occafional vifits ferved to leffen my folici- tude about our people who had landed. Though 185 A VOYAGE TO we could get no information from our vifiters; yet their venturing on board feemed to imply, at lead, ""'' that their countrymen on fhore had not made an improper ufe of the confidence put in them. At length, a little before fun-fet, we had the fatisfac- tion of feeing the boats put off When they got on board, I found that Mr. Gore himfelf, Omai, Mr. Anderfon, and Mr. Burney, were the only perfons who had landed. The tranfactions of the day were now fully reported to me by Mr. Gore ; but Mr. Anderfon's account of them being very particular, and including fome remarks on the ifland and its inhabitants, I fhall give it a place here, nearly in his own words. " We rowed toward a Small Sandy beach, upon which, and upon the adjacent rocks, a great number of the natives had affembled ; and came to an anchor within a hundred yards of the reef, which extends about as far, or a little farther, from the fhore. Several of the natives fwam off, bringing cocoa nuts; and Omai, with their countrymen, whom we had with us in the boats, made them fen- Si ble of our with to land. But their attention was taken up, for a little time, by the dog, which had been carried from the fhip, and was jud brought on fhore, round whom they flocked with great ea- gerneSs. Soon after, two canoes came off; and, to create a greater confidence in the iflanders, we determined to go unarmed, and run the hazard of being treated well or ill. Mr. Burney, the firfl Lieutenant of the Difcovery, and I, went in one canoe, a little time before the other; and our conductors, watching attentively the motions of the furf, landed us fafely upon the reef. An iflander took hold of each of us, obvioufly with an attention to fupport us in walking, over the rugged rocks, to the beach, where THE PACIFIC OCEAN .where feveral of the others met us, holding the 1 green boughs, of a fpecies of Mimqfa, in their ^ hands, and faiuted us by applying their- noSes to ours. We were conducted from the beach by our guides, amidd a great crowd of people, who flocked with very eager curiofity to look at us; and would have prevented our proceeding, had not Some men, who Seemed to have authority, dealt blows, with little didinction, amongd them, to keep them off. We were then led up an avenue of cocoa-palms; and foon came to a number of men, arranged in two rows, armed with clubs, which they held on their fhoulders, much in the manner we red a mufquet. After walking a little way amongd thefe, we found a perfon who feemed a Chief, fitting on the ground -crofs-legged, cooling himfelf with a fort of triangular fan, made from a leaf of the cocoa-palm, with a polifhed handle, of black wood, fixed to one corner. In his ears were large bunches of beautiful red feathers, which pointed forward. But he had no other mark, or ornament, to didinguifh him from the red of ife^,people;. though they all obeyed him with the greated alacrity. He either naturally had, or at this time put on, a ferious, but not fe- vere countenance; and we were defired to faiute him as he fat, by fome people who feemed of confequence. We proceeded dill amongd the men armed with clubs, and came to a fecond Chief, who Sat fanning himfelf, and ornamented as the fird. He was remarkable for his fize, and uncommon corpulence, though, to appearance, not above thirty years of age. In the fame manner, we were conducted to a third Chief, who feemed older than the two" i former, A VOYAGE TO former, and, though not fo fat as the fecond, was of a large fize. He alfo was fitting, and adorned '-* with red feathers; and after faluting him as we had done the others, he defired us both to fit down. Which we were very willing to do, being pretty well fatigued with walking up, and with the ex- ceflive heat we Selt amongd the vad crowd that Surrounded us. In a Sew minutes, the people were ordered to Separate; and we faw, at the didance of thirty yards, about twenty young women, ornamented as the Chiefs, with red feathers, engaged in a dance, which they performed to a flow and fe- rious air, fung by them all. We got up, and went forward to fee them; and though we mud have been drange objects to them, they continued their dance, without paying the lead attention to us. They feemed to be directed by a man who ferved as a prompter, and mentioned each motion they were to make. Butthey never changed the Spot,, as we do in dancing, and though their feet were not at red, this exercife confided more in moving the fingers very nimbly, at the Sasnt time holding their hands in a prone pofition n4i8fithe face, and now and then alfo clapping them together *. Their motions and fong were performed in fuch exact concert, that it fhould feem they had been taught with great care; and probably they v/ere Selected for this ceremony, as few of thofe whom we faw in the crowd equalled them in beauty. In general, they were rather dout than (lender, with-black hair flowing in rin^ts- down the neck, and of an olive complexion. * -The dances of the inhabitants of the Caroline Iflands, have a^gseat refenrblance-tsLthpft.here ckfcflbtedu See Let tres Edff. vt> Curiinfes, Tom. xv. p. 315. See alfo, in the fame volume, p. a«>7'."what is faid of the ringing and dancing of the inhabitants of the Palaos Iflands, which belong to the fame group. Their THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 189 Their features were, rather, fuller than what we 1777. allow to perfect beauties, and much alike; but their APril- eyes were of a deep black, and each countenance v ' expreffed a degree of complacency and modefly, peculiar to the fex in every part of the world; but perhaps more confpicuous here, where Nature presented us with her productions in the fulled perfection, unbiaffed in Sentiment by cuftom, or unrestrained in manner by art. Their fhape and limbs were elegantly formed. For, as their drefs confided only ofacipiece of glazed cloth fadened about the waid, and fcarcely reaching So low as the knees, in many we had an opportunity of obferving every part. This dance was not finifhed, when we heard a noife, as if fome horfes had been galloping toward us; and, on looking afide, we faw the people armed with clubs, who had been defired, as we fuppofed, to entertain us with the fight of their manner of fighting. This they now did, one party purfuing another who fled. As we fuppofed the ceremony of being introduced to the Chiefs was at an end, we began to look about for Mr. Gore and Omai; and, though the crowd would hardly differ us to move, we at length found them coming up, as much incommoded by the number of people as we had been, and introduced in the fame manner to the three Chiefs, whofe names were Otteroo, Taroa, and Fatou- weera. Each of thefe expected a prefent; and Mr. Gore gave thfsoffuch things as he had brought with him from the fhip, for that purpofe. After this, making ufe of Omai as his interpreter, he informed the Chiefs with what intention we had come on fhore; but was given to under- dand, that he mud wait till the next day, and then he fhould have what was wanted. They A VOYAGE TO They now feemed to take fome pains to feparate us from each other; and every one of us had his circle, to furround and gaze at him. For my own part, I was, at one time, above an hour apart from my friends; and when I told the Chief, with whom I fat, that I wanted to fpeak to Omai, he peremptorily refufed my requed. At the fame time, I found the people began to deal feveral trifling things whice I had in my pocket; and when 1 took the liberty of complaining to the Chief of this treatment, he judified it. From thefe circumdances, I now entertained apprehenfions, that they might have formed the defign of detaining us amongd them. They did not, indeed, feem to be of a difpofition fo favage, as to make us anxious for the fafety of our perfons; but it was, neverthelefs, vexing to think, we had hazarded being detained by their curiofity. In this fituation, I afked for fomething to eat; and they readily brought to me fome cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and a fort of four pudding, which was prefented by a woman. And on my complaining much of the heat, occafioned by the crowd, the Chief himSelf condeScended to fan me, and gave me a fmall piece of cloth, which he had round his waid. Mr. Burney happened to come to the place where I was, I mentioned my fufpicions to him; and, to put it to the ted, whether they were well-Sounded, we attempted to get to the beach. But we were dopped, when about half-way, by fome men, who told us, that we mud go back to the place which we had left. On coming up, we found Omai entertaining the fame apprehenfions. But he had, as he fancied, an additional reafon for being afraid; for he had obferved, that they had dug a hole in the ground for an oven, which they were now heating; and he could affign no other reaSon for this, than that they meant to road, and THE PACIFIC OCEAN. and eat us, as is practifed by the inhabitants of New Zealand. Nay, he went fo far as to afk them the queftion; at which they were greatly furprifed, *" aSking, in return, whether that was a cuflom with us? Mr. Burney and I were rather angry that they fhould be thus fufpected by him; there hktir- ing, as yet, been no appearances, in their conduct toward us, of their being capable of fuch brutality. In this manner we were detained the greated part of the day, being fometimes together, and fometimes feparated; but always in a crowd; who, not Satisfied with gazing at us, Srequently defired us to uncover parts of our (kin; the fight of which commonly produced a general murmur of admiration. At the fame time, they did not omit thefe .opportunities of rifling our pockets; and, at lad, one of them fnatched a fmall bayonet from Mr. Gore, which hung in its lheath by his fide. This was reprefented to the Chief, who pretended to fend fome perfon in fearch of it. But, in all probability, he countenanced the theft; for, foon after, Omai had a dagger dolen from his fide, in the fame manner; though he did not mifs it immediately. Whether they obferved any Signs of uneafinefs in us, or that they voluntarily repeated their emblems of friendfhip when we expreffed a defire to go, I cannot tell; but, at this time, they brought fome green boughs, and dicking their ends in the ground, defired we might hold them as we fat. Upon our urging again the bufinefs we came upon, they gave us to underdand, that we mud day and eat with them ; and a pig which we Saw? Soon after, lying near the oven, which they had prepared and heated, removed Omai's apprehenfions of being put into it himfelf; and made us think it might be intended for our re- A VOYAGE TO pad. The Chief alfo promifed to fend fome people to procure food for the cattle; but it was not "' till pretty late in the afternoon, that we faw them return with a few plantain^trees, which they carried to our boats. In the mean time, Mr. Burney and I attempted again to go to the beach ; but when we arrived, found ourfelves watched by people, who, to appearance, had been placed there for this purpofe. For when I tried to wade in upon the reef, one of them took hold of my clothes, and dragged me back. I picked up fome fmall pieces of coral, which they required me to throw down again ; and, on my refufal, they made no fcruple to take them forcibly from me, I had gathered fome fmall plants; but thefe alSo I could not be permitted to retain. And they took a fan from Mr. Burney, which he had received as a prefent on coming afhore. Omai faid, we had done wrong in taking up any thing ; for it was not the cuftom here to permit freedoms of that kind to drangers, till they had, in fome meafure, naturalized them to the country, by entertaining them with fedivity for two or three days. Finding that the only method of procuring better treatment was to yield implicit obedience to their will, we went up again to the place we had left; and they now promifed, that we Should have a canoe to carry us off lo our boats, after we had eaten of a repad which had been prepared for us. Accordingly, the fecond Chief, to whom we had been introduced in the morning, having feat- ed himfelf upon a low broad dool of blackifh hard wood, tolerably polifhed, and directing the multitude to make a pretty large ring, made us fit down by him. A confiderable number of cocoa-nuts 2 were THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 193 were now brought; and, fhortly after, a long 1777. green bafket, with a fufficient quantity of baked ^J^"1' plantains to have ferved a dozen perfons. A piece /""'"" of the young hog^ that had been dreffed, was then fet before each of us, of which we were defired to eat. Our appetites, however, had failed, from the fatigue of the day; and though we did eat a little to pleafe them, it was without Satisfaction to ourfelves. It being now near fun-fet, we told them it was time to go on board. This they allowed ; and fent down to the beach the remainder of the victuals that had been dreffed, to be carried with us to the fhips. But, before we fet out, Omai was treated with a drink he had been ufed to in his own country; which, we obferved, was made here, as at other iflands in the South Sea, by chewing the root of a fort of pepper. We found a canoe ready to put us off to our boats; which the natives did, with the fame caution as when we landed. But, even here, their thievifh difpofition did not leave them. For a perfon of fome confequence among them, who came with us, took an opportunity, jud as they were pufhing the canoe into the Surf, to fnatch a bag out of her, which I had, with the greateft difficulty, preferved all the day; there be- ingin it a fmall pocket-pidol, which I was unwilling to part with. Perceiving him, I called out, expreffing as much difpleafure as I could. On which he thought proper to return, and fwim with the bag to the canoe; but denied he had dolen it, though detected in the very act. They put us on board our boats, with the cocoa-nuts, plantains, and other provifions, which they had brought; and we rowed to the fhips, very well pleafed that we had at lad got out of the hands of our troublefome maders. Vol.. I. O We A VOYAGE TO We regretted much, that our redrained fituation gave us fb little opportunity of making obfervations on the country. For, during the whole day, we were feldom a hundred yards from the place where we were introduced to the Chiefs on landing; and, confequently, were confined to the furrounding objects. The fird thing that prefent- ed itfelf, worthy of our notice, was the number of people; which mud have been, at lead, two thoufand. For thofe who welcomed us on the fhore, bore no proportion to the multitude we found amongd the trees, on proceeding a little way up. We could alfo obferve, that, except a few, thofe we had hitherto feen on board, were of the lower clafs. For a great number of thofe we now met with, had a fuperior dignity in their air, and were of a much whiter cad. In general, they had the hair tied on the crown of the head, long, black, and of a moft luxuriant growth. Many of the young men were perfect models in Shape, of a complexion as delicate as that of the women, and, to appearance, of a difpofition as amiable. Others, who were more advanced in years, were corpulent; and all had a remarkable fmoothnefs of the fkin. Their general drefs was a piece of cloth, or mat, wrapped about the waift, and covering the parts which modefty conceals. But fome had pieces of mats, moft curioufly varied with black and white, made into a fort of jacket without fleeves; and others wore conical caps of cocoa-nut core, neatly interwoven with fmall beads, made of a Shelly fubftance. Their ears were pierced ; and in them they hung bits of the membraneous part of fome plant, or Stuck there an odoriferous flower, which feemed to be a fpecies of gardenia. Some, who were of a fuperior clafs, and alfo the Chiefs, had two little balls, with a common bafe, made from the THE- PACIFIC OCEAN. the bone of fome animal, which was hung round the neck, with a great many folds of fmall cord. And after the ceremony of introduction to the Chiefs was over, they then appeared without their red feathers; which are certainly confidered here as a particular mark of distinction; for none but themfelves, and the young women who danced, affumed them. Some of the men were punctured all over the fides and back, in an uncommon manner; and fome of the women had the Same ornament on their legs. But this method was confined to thofe who Seemed to be of a fuperior rank ; and the men, in that caSe, were alSo generally distinguished by their Size and corpulence, unleSs very young. The women of an advanced age had their hair cropped Short; and many were cut, in oblique lines, all over the fore-part oS the body; and Some oS the wounds, which Sormed rhomboidal figures, had been So lately inflicted, that the coagulated blood dill remained in them. The wife of one of the Chiefs appeared with her child, laid in a piece of red cloth, which had been prefented to her hufband; and feemed to carry it with great tendernefs, fuckling it much after the manner of our women. Another Chief introduced his daughter, who was young and beautiful; but appeared with all the timidity natural to the fex ; though fhe gazed on us with a kind of anxious concern, that feemed to druggie with her fear, and to exprefs her adonifhment at fo un- ufual a fight. Others advanced with more firra- neSs, and, indeed, were leSs reServed than we expected ; but behaved with a becoming modedy. We did not obferve any perSonal deSormities amongd either Sex ; except in a few who had Scars of broad Superficial ulcers, remaining on the O 2 face A VOYAGE TO face and other parts. In proportion to the number of people affembled, there appeared not many old men or women; which may eafily be accounted for, by fuppofing that fuch as were in an advanced period of life, might neither have the inclination, nor the ability, to come from the more diflant parts of the ifland. On the other hand, the children were numerous; and both thefe, and the men, climbed the trees to look at us, when we were hid by the furrounding crowd. About a third part of the men were armed with clubs and fpears; and, probably, thefe were only the perfons who had come from a didance, as many of them had fmall baSkets, mats, and other things, fattened to the ends of their weapons. The clubs were generally about fix feet long, made of a hard black wood, lance-Shaped at the end, but much broader, with the edge nicely Scolloped, and the whole neatly polifhed. Others of them were narrower at the point, much Shorter, and plain ; and Some were even So Small, as to be uSed with one hand. The Spears were made of the fame wood, fimply pointed; and, in general, above : twelve feet long; though fome were fo Short, that they Seemed intended to be thrown as darts. The place where we were all the day, was under the Shade of various trees; in which they preserved their canoes from the fun. About eight or ten of them were here, all double ones; that is, two fingle ones fattened together (as is ufual, throughout the whole extent of the Pacific Ocean), by rafters laShed acrofs. They were about twenty feet long, about four feet deep, and the fides rounded with a plank raifed upon them, which was fattened Strongly by means of withes. Two of thefe canoes were moft curioufly Stained, or painted, all over with black, in numberlefs Small fi- 2 gures; THE PACIFIC OCEAN. i< cures; as Squares, triangles, &c. and excelled, by 1777 far, any thing of that kind I had ever Seen at any APril other ifland in this ocean. Our friends here, in-' v'~ deed, Seemed to have exerted more fkill in doing this, than in puncturing their own bodies. The paddles were' about four feet long, nearly elliptical ; but broader at the upper end than the middle. Near the fame place was a hut or fhed, about thirty feet long, and nine or ten high ; in which, perhaps, thefe boats are built; but, at this time, it was empty. The greateft number of the trees around us were cocoa*palms; fome forts of hibifcus; a fpecies of euphorbi0.\ and, toward the fea, abundance of the fame kind of trees we had feen at Mangeea Nooe Nainaiwa; and which feemed to furround the Shores of this ifland in the fame manner. They are tall and Slender, not much unlike a cyprefs; but with bunches of long, round, articulated leaves. The natives call them etoa. On the ground we faw fome grafs; a fpecies of convolvulus; and a good deal of treacle-muftard. There are alSo, doubtleSs, other fruit-trees and ufeful plants which we did not fee. For, befides feveral Sorts of plantains, they brought, at different times, roots which they call taro (the coccos of other countries) ; a bread-fruit; and a bafket of roaded nuts, of a kidney-fhape, in tade like a chefnut, but coarfer. What the foil of the ifland may be, farther in-? land, we could not tell. But, toward the fea, it is nothing more than a bank of coral, ten or twelve feet high, deep, and rugged; except where there are fmall fandy beaches, at fome clefts where the afcent is gradual. The coral, though it has, probably, been expofed to the weather for many centuries, has undergone no farther change than be* coming 193 AVOYAGETO 1777- coming black on the Surface; which, from its irre- 1 AP'lL . gularity, is not much unlike large mafles of a burnt fubftance. But, on breaking fome pieces off, we Sound, that, at the depth oS two or three inches, it was jud as frefh as the pieces that had been lately thrown upon the beach by the waves. The reef or rock> that lines the fhore entirely, runs to different breadths into the fea, where it ends, all at once, and becomes like a high, deep wall. It is, nearly, even with the furface of the water, and of a brown or brick colour; but the texture is rather porous, yet fufficient to withdand the waffling of the furf which continually breaks upon it." Though the landing of our Gentlemen proved the means of enriching my Journal with the foregoing particulars, the principal object I had in view was, in a great meafure, unattained; for the day was fpent without getting any one thing from the ifland worth mentioning. The natives, however, were gratified with a fight they never before had; and, probably, will never have again. And mere curiofity feems to have been their chief motive for keeping the gentlemen under fuch redraint, and for ufing every art to prolong their continuance amongd them. It has been mentioned, that Omai was fent upon this expedition ; and, perhaps, his being Mr. Gore's interpreter was not the only fervice he performed this day. He was afked, by the natives, a great many questions concerning us, our fhips, our country, and the Sort of arms we ufed ; and, according to the account he gave me, his anfwers were not a little upon the marvellous. As, for inftance, he told them, that our country had fhips as large as their ifland ; on board which were inftruments of war (deScribing our guns), of Such dimenfions, that feveral people might fit within them; and that one of them THE PACIFIC OCEAN. them was fufficient to crufh the whole ifland at one fhot. This led them to inquire of him, what fort of guns we actually had in our two fhips. He faid, that though they were but Small, in comparison with thofe he had juddeScribed, yet, with fuch as they were, we could, with the greated eaSe, and at the diftance the fhips were from the Shore, dedroy. the ifland, and kill every foul in it. They perfevered in their .inquiries, to know by what means this could be done; and Omai explained the matter as well as he could. He happened luckily to have a few cartridges in his pocket. Thefe he produced ; the balls, and the gunpowder which was to fet them in motion, were fubmitted to in- Spe&ion ; and to Supply the defects of his defcrip- tion, an appeal was made to the fenfes of the Spectators, lt has been mentioned above, that one of the Chiefs had ordered the multitude to form themfelves into a circle. This furnifhed Omai with a convenient dage for his exhibition. In the center of this amphitheatre, the inconfiderable quantity of gunpowder, collected from his cartridges, was properly difpofed upon the ground, and, by means of a bit of burning wood from the oven, where dinner was drefiing, fet on fire. The fudden blaft, and loud report, the mingled flame and fmoke, that inftantly Succeeded, now filled the whole af- fembly with aftonifhment;. they no longer doubted the tremendous power of our weapons, and gave full credit to all that Omai had faid. If it had not been for the terrible ideas they conceived of the guns of our fhips, from this fpe- cimen of their mode of operation, it was thought that they would have detained the gentlemen all night. For Omai affured them, that, if he and his companions did not return on board the fame day, they might expect that I would fire upon the ifland. A VOYAGE TO ifland. And as we dood in nearer the land in' the evening, than we had done any time before, of which pofition of the fhips they were obferved to take great notice, they, probably, thought we were meditating this formidable attack; and, therefore, differed their gueds to depart; under the expectation, however, of feeing them again on fhore next morning. But I was too fenfible of the rifk they had already run, to think of a repetition of the experiment. This day, it feems, was dedined to give Omai more occafions than one, of being brought forward to bear a principal part in its transactions. The ifland, though never before vifited by Europeans, actually happened to have other Strangers refiding in it; and it was entirely owing to Omai's being one of Mr. Gore's attendants, that this curious circumdance came to our knowledge. Scarcely had he been landed upon the beach, when he found amongd the crowd there affem- bled, three of his own countrymen, natives of the Society Iflands. At the diftance of about two hundred leagues from thofe iflands, an immenfe unknown ocean intervening, with fuch wretched fea-boats as their inhabitants are. known to make ufe of, and fit only for a paffage where fight of land is fcarcely ever loft, fuch a meeting, at fuch a place, fo accidentally vifited by us, may well be looked upon as one of thofe unexpected Situations, with which the writers of feigned adventures love to furprife their readers, and which, when they really happen in common life, deferve to be recorded for their Angularity. It may eafily begueffed,with what mutual furprife and Satisfaction Omai and his countrymen engaged in conversation. Their Story, as related by them, is an affecting one. About twenty perfons in number, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 201 number, of both Sexes, had embarked on board 1777. a canoe at Otaheite, to crofs over to the neigh- APril- bouring ifland Ulietea. A violent contrary wind *" *~~ arifing, they could neither reach the latter, nor get back to the former. Their intended paffage being a very fhort one, their dock of provifions was fcanty and foon exhauded. The hardfhips they differed, while driven along by the dorm, they knew not whither, are not to be conceived. They paffed many days without having any thing to eat or drink. Their numbers gradually diminifhed, worn out by famine and fatigue. Four men only furvived, when the canoe over- fet; and then the perdition of this fmall remnant feemed inevitable. However, they kept hanging by the fide of their veffel, during Some of the lad days, till Providence brought them in fight of the people of this ifland, who immediately fent out canoes, took them off their wreck, . and brought them afhore. Of the four who were thus faved, one was fince dead. The other three, who lived to have this opportunity of giving an account of their almofl miraculous tranfplantation, fpoke highly of the kind treatment-they here met with. And fo well fatisfied were they with their fituation, that they refufed the offer made to them by our gentlemen, at Omai's requed, of giving them a paffage on board our fhips, to redore them to their native iflands. The Similarity of manners and language, had more than naturalized them to this Spot; and the frefh connexions which they had here formed, and which it would have been painful to have broken off, after fuch a length of time, fufficiently account for their de- ^ dining to revifit the places of their birth. They had arrived upon this ifland at lead twelve years ago. For I learnt from Mr. Anderfon, that he found they knew nothing of Captain Wallis's vifit A VOYAGE TO to Otaheite in 1765; nor of feveral other memorable occurrences, fuch as the conqued of Ulietea J by thofe of Bolabola, which had preceded the arrival of the Europeans. To Mr. Anderfon I am alfo indebted for their names, Orououte, Otirreroa, and Tavee; thefird, born atMatavai in Otaheite; the fecond, at Ulietea ; and the third at Huaheine. The landing of our gentlemen on this ifland, though they failed in the object of it, cannot but be confidered as a very fortunate circumdance. It has proved, as we have feen the means of bringing to our knowledge a matter of fact, not only very curious, but very indructive. The application of the above narrative is obvious. It will ferve to explain, better than a thoufand conjectures of fpeculative reafoners, how the detached parts of the earth, and, in particular, how the iflands of the South Sea, may have been fir A peopled ; efpecially thofe that lie remote from any inhabited continent, or from each other *. * Such accidents as this here related, probably happen frequently in the Pacific Ocean. In 1696, two canoes, having on board thirty perfons of both fexes, were driven by contrary winds and tempeituous weather, on the ifle of Samal, one of the Philippines, after being toft about at fea feventy days, and having performed a voyage, from an ifland called by them Amorfot, 300 leagues to the Eaft of Samal. Five of the number who had embarked, died of the hardships fuffered during this extraordinary paffage. See a particular account of them, and of the iflands they belonged to, in Lettres Edifiantes & Curieufes, Tom. xv. from p. 196. to p. 215. In the fame Volume, from p. 282. to p. 320. we have the relation of a finiilar adventure, in 172 r, when two canoes, one containing twenty-four, and the other fix perfons, men, women, and children, were driven, from an ifland they called Farroilep, Northward to the ifle of Guam, or Guahan, . one of the Ladrones or Mariannes. But thefe had not failed fo far as their countrymen, who reached Samal as above, and they had been at fea only twenty days. There feems to be no reafon to doubt the general authenticity of thefe two relations. The information contained in the letters of the Jefuits, about thefe iflands, now known under the name of the Carolines, and difcovered to the Spaniards by the arrival of the canoes at Samal and Guam, has been adopted by all our later writers. See Prefident de Eroffe's Voyages aux Terres Aufirales, Tom. ii from p. 44.3. to p. 490. See alfo the Modern Uniwrfal Hifiory. This THE PACIFIC OCEAN. This ifland is called Wateeoo by the natives. It lies in the latitude of 200 1; South, and in the ■ longitude 201 ° 4.5 Ead, and is about fix leagues in circumference. It is a beautiful fpot, with a furface compofed of hills and plains, and covered with verdurejfjf many hues. Our gentlemen found the foiiPwhere they paffed the day, to be light and fandy. But farther up the country, a different fort, perhaps, prevails; as we faw from the fhip, by the help of our glades, a reddifh cad upon the rifing grounds. There the inhabitants have their houSes ; for we could perceive two or three, which were long and fpacious. Its produce, with the addition of hogs, we found to be the fame as at the lad ifland we had vifited, which the people of this, to whom we pointed out its pofition, called Owhavarouah; a name fo different from Mangeea Nooe Nainaiwa, which we learnt from its own inhabitants, that it is highly probable Owhavarouah is another ifland. From the circumftances already mentioned, it appears, that Wateeoo can be of little ufe to any Ship that wants refreshment, unlefs in a cafe of the mod abfolute neceflity. The natives, knowing now the value of fome of our commodities, might be induced to bring off fruits and hogs, to a fhip danding off and on, or to boats lying off the reef, as ours did. It is doubtful, however, if any frefh water could be procured. For, though fome was brought, in cocoa nut Shells, to the gentlemen, they were told, that it was at a confiderable didanee; and, probably it is only to be met with in fome dagnant pool, as no running dream was any where Seen. According to Omai's report of what he learnt in conversation with his three countrymen, the manners of theSe iflanders, their method of treating _e, IrcJ. A VOYAGE TO ing drangers, and their general habits^ life, are much like thofe that prevail at Otaheite, and its ** neighbouring ifles. Their religious ceremonies and opinions are alfo nearly the fame. For, tro^T' on feeing one man, who was painted all over of a deep black colour, and inquiring the reafon, our gentlemen were told, that he had lately been paying the lad good offices to a deceafed friend ; and they found, that it was upon fimilar occa- fions, the women cut themfelves, as already mentioned. From every circumdance, indeed, it is indubitable, that the natives of Wateeoo fprung, originally, from the fame dock, which hath fpread itfelf fo wonderfully all over the immenfe extent of the South Sea. One would fuppofe, however, that they put in their claim to a more illudrious extraction ; for Omai affured us, that they dignified their ifland with the appellation of Wewoa 110 te Eatooa, that is, A land of gods ; efleem- ing themfelves a fort of divinities, and poffeffed with the fpirit of the Eatooa. This wild enthu- fiaftic notion Omai feemed much to approve of, telling us there were indances of its being entertained at Otaheite; but that it was univerfally prevalent amongd the inhabitants of Mataia, or OSnaburg Ifland. The language Spoken at Wateeoo was equally well underflood by Omai, and by our two New Zealanders. What its peculiarities may be, when compared with the other dialects, I am not able to point out; for, though Mr. Anderfon had taken care to note down a Specimen of it, the natives, who made no didinction of the objects of their ■theft, dole the memorandum book. " *« THE PACIFIC OCEAN. CHAP. III. Wenooa-ette, or Otakootaia, vifited. ~— Account of that lfland, and of its Produce. — Hervey's Ifland, or Terougge mou Attooa, found to be inhabited.—Tran/a£lions with the Natives.—Their Perfons, Drefs, Lauguage, Canoes. — Fruitlefs Attempt to land there. — Reafons for bearing away for the Friendly Iflands. — Palmerfton's Ifland touched at.—Description of the two Places where the Boats landed.—-Refrejhments obtained there. — Conjetlures on the Formation of fuch low Iflands.—Arrival at the Friendly Iflands. LIGHT airs and calms having prevailed, by 1777- turns, all the night of the 3d, the Eaderly \^f^j fwell had carried the Ships fome diftance from Wateeoo, before day-break. But as I had failed in Friday^ my object of procuring, at that place, fome effectual fupply, I faw no reafon for flaying there any longer. I, therefore quitted it, without regret, and deered for the neighbouring ifland, which, as has been mentioned, we difcovered three days before. With a gentle breeze at Ead, we got up with it, before ten o'clock in the morning, and I immediately difpatched Mr. Gore, with two boats, to endeavour to land, and get fome food for our cattle. As there feemed to be no inhabitants here to obstruct our taking away whatever we might think proper, I was confident of his being able to make amends If A VOYAGE TO amends'for our late difappointment, if the landing j could be effected. There was a reef here fur- rounding the land, as at Wateeoo, and a confi- perable furf breaking againd the rocks. Notwithstanding which, our boats no fooner reached the lee, or Wed fide of the ifland, but they ventured in, and Mr. Gore and his party got fafe on fhore. I could, from the fhip, fee that they had fucceed- ed fo far; and I immediately fent a fmall boat to know what farther affiflance was wanting. She did not return till three o'clock in the afternoon, having waited to take in a lading of what ufeful produce the ifland afforded. As foon as fhe was cleared fhe was fent again for another cargo; the Jolly boat was alfo difpatched, and Mr. Gore was ordered to be on board, with all the boats, before night; which was complied with. The fupply obtained here, confided of about a hundred cocoa nuts for each fhip; and befides this refreshment for ourfelves, we got for our cattle fome grafs, and a quantity of the leaves and branches of young cocoa trees, and of the wharra tree, as it is called at Otaheite, the pandanus of the Eadlndies, This latterbeing of a foft, fpungy,juicy nature, the cattle eat it very well, when cut into fmall pieces j So that it might be faid without any deviation from truth, that we fed them upon billet wood. This ifland lies in the latitude of 190 51' South, and the longitude of 20i°37'Ead, about three or four leagues from Wateeoo, the inhabitants of which called it Otakootaia ; and-fometimes they fpoke of it under the appellation of Wenooaette, which fignifies little ifland. Mr. Anderfon who was on Shore with our party, and walked round it, guelfed that it could not be much more than three miles in circuit. From him I alfo learned the fol- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. lowing particulars. The beach, within the reef, is compofed of a white coral fand ; above which, the y_ land within does not rife above fix or feven feet, and is covered with a light reddifh foil; but is entirely deditute of water. The only common trees found there were cocoa- palms, of which there were feveral cluders ; and vad numbers of the wharra. There were, likewife, the callophyllum, furiana, guettarda, a fpecies of f tournefortia, and tabernce montance, with a few other Shrubs ; and Some of the etoa tree feen at Wateeoo. A fort of bind weed over-ran the vacant fpaces; except in Some places, where was found a confiderable quantity of treacle muftard, a fpecies of Jpurge, with a few other fmall plants, and the morinda citrifolia; the fruit of which is eaten by the natives of Otaheite in times of fear- city. Omai, who had landed with the party, dreffed Some of it for their dinner ; but it proved very indifferent. The only bird feen amongd the trees, was a beautiful cuckoo, of a chefnut brown, variegated with black, which was fhot. But, upon the fhore, were fome egg-birds; a Small Sort of curlew ; blue and white herons ; and great numbers of noddies; which laft, at this time, laid their eggs, a little farther up, on the ground, and often reded on the wharra tree. One of our people caught a lizard, of a mod forbidding afpect, though fmall, running up a tree; and many, of another fort, were feen. The bufhes toward the fea, were frequented by infinite numbers of a Sort of moth, elegantly fpeckled with red, black, and white. There were alfo feveral other forts of moths, as well as fome pretty butterflies; and a few other infects. Though 2®S A VOYAGE TO -ill' ?:|§hough there were, at this time, no fixed in j v^*";.^, habitants upon the ifland, indubitable marks re- ^""v"~'*mained of its beii|j| at leaft, occafionally frequented. In particular, a few empty huts were found. There were alfo feveral large Stones erected, like monuments, uri#er the Shade of fome trees; and feveral fpaces inclofed with fmaller ones; where, probably, the dead had been buried. And, in one place, a great many cockle-fhells, of a particular fort, finely grooved, and larger than the firft, were to be feen; from which it was reafonable to conjecture, that the iflailf had been vifited by perfons who feed, partly, on Shell^lh. In one of the huts, Mr. Gore left a hatchet, and fome nails, to the full value of what we took away. As foon as the boats were hoifted in, I made Sail again to the northward, with a light air of wind Eafterly; intending to try our fortune at Hervey's Ifland, which was difcovered in 17731 Iduring my laft voyage *. Although it was not above fifteen leagues diftant, yet we did not get fight of it Sundays, till day-break in the morning of the 6th, when it bore Weft South Weft, at the distance; of about three leagues. As we drew near it, at eight o'clock, we obferved feveral canoes put off from the Shore; and they came directly toward the fhips. This was a fight that, indeed, furprifed me, as no Signs of inhabitants were feen when the ifland was firft difcovered; which might be owing to a pretty brifk wind that then blew, and prevented their canoes venturing out, as the fhips paffed to leeward; whereas now we were to windward. * See Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 190, where this ifland s faid to be about fix leagues in circuit. As I THE PACIFIC OCEAN. aoc (AsiWe Still kept. on toward the ifland, fix or Se- 1777. ven of the canogg, s$Rouble ones, foon came near, April, us. There were, from three to fix men, in each of l/ $aqftf They Stopped at the diftance of about a ftone's throw from the Ship; and it was fome time before Qipai could prevail upon them to come #kHag-fide. but no intreaties could induce any of ^jjf$# to venture on board. Indeed their disorderly and Amorous behaviour, by no means indicated a difpofition to truft us, or treat us well. We af- ."W^wd learnt tfi^t jjpey bad attempted to take fome oars ctut of the £)jfcovery's boat, .that lay fttosgrflide, and drjuok a man who .endeavoured to prevent them. They alfo cut away, with a Shell, a net with meat, ,wibich hung over that Ship's ftern, and abfolutely refufed ;to aseftore it; though we, afterward, purchafed it from them. Thofe s?fef> were about our fhip, behaved in the Same daring ma^er; for they made a fort of hook, of a long dick, with 'Wjhicjp jjlpey endeavoured, openly* jtjorob us of feveral th«a@s; and, at lad, actually §9* a frock belonging ;to one of our people, that was towing over-board. At the fame time, they immedft($$y Stewed a knowledge of bartering, and fold fome .fifh .they had (amongd AVihich was a&iMl&SffidjjjRa-ry flounder, Spotted like porphyry; and a crame-coloured eel, .Spotted with black), for fmall nails, of which they were immoderately fond, and called them goore. But, indeed, they caught, with the greated avidity, bits of paper, or any thing elfe that was thrown to them; and if what was thrown fell into the fea, they made no Scruple to. fwim after it. Thefe people feemed to differ as muchinperfon, as in difpofition, from the natives of Wateeoo*; though the didance between the two iflands is not very great. Their colopj? .was of a deeper cad • . and feveral had a fierce, rugged afpect, refem- Vol. I. P bling A VOYAGE TO bling the natives of New Zealand; but fome were fairer. They had drong black hair, which, ' in general, they wore either hanging loofe about the Shoulders, or tied in a bunch on the crown of the head. Some, however, had it cropped pretty Short; and, in two or three of them, it was of a brown, or reddifh colour. Their only covering was a narrow piece of mat, wrapt feveral times round the lower part of the body, and which paffed between the thighs; but a fine cap of red feathers was feen lying in one of the canoes. The Shell of a pearl-oyfler polished, and hung about the neck, was the only ornamental Safhion that we obferved amongd them; for not one of them had adopted that mode of ornament, fo generally prevalent amongd the natives of this Ocean, of puncturing, or tatooing their bodies. Though Angular in this, we had the mod unequivocal proofs of their being of the fame common race. Their language approached dill nearer to the dialect of Otaheite, than that of Wateeoo, or Mangeea. Like the inhabitants of thefe two iflands, they inquired from whence our fhips came; and whither bound ; who was our Chief; the number of our men on board; and even the Ship's name. And they very readily anfwered fuch questions as we propoSed to them. Amongd other things, they told us, they had Seen two great Ships, like ours, before; but that they had not Spoken with them as they Sailed paft. There can be no doubt, that thefe were the Refolution and Adventure. We learnt from them, that the name of their ifland is Terouggemou Atooa; and that they were Subject to Teerevatooeah, king of Wateeoo *. According to the account that they * The reader will obferve, that this name bears little affinity to any one of the names of the three Chiefs of Wateeoo, as prefer ved by Mr. Anderfon, THE PACIFIC OCEAN; gave, their articles of food are cocoa-nuts, fifh, and turtle; the ifland not producing plantains, or bread-fruit; and being destitute of hogs and"~ dogs. Their canoes, of which near thirty were, at one time, in fight, are pretty large and well built. In the construction of the Stern, they bear fome refemblance to thofe of Wateeoo; and the head projects out nearly in the fame manner j but the extremity is turned up inftead of down. Having but very little wind, it was one o'clock before we drew near the North Weft part of the ifland ; the only part where there feemed to beany probability of finding anchorage for oupihips, or a landing-place for our boats. In this pofition, I fent Lieutenant King, with two armed boats, to found and reconnoitre the coaft, while we Stood off and on with the Ships. The inftant the boats were hoifted out, our vifiters in the .canoes, who had remained along-fide all the while, bartering their little trifles, fufpended their traffic, and, pufh- ing for the fhore as faft as they could, came near us no more. At three o'clock, the boats returned ; and Mr. King informed me, " That there was no anchorage for the fhips; and that the boats could only land on the outer edge of the reef, which lay about a quarter of a mile from the dry land. He faid, that a number of the natives came down upon the reef, armed with long pikes and clubs, as if they intended to oppofe his landing. And yet, when he drew near enough, they threw Some cocoa-nuts to our people, and invited them to come on fhore; though, at the very Same time, he obServed that the women were very buSy bringing down a frefh fupply of Spears and darts. But, as he had no motive A VOYAGE TO to land, he did not give them an opportunity to ufe them." Having receiwftd diis jefwrt, I confidered, that, as che fhips could not be brought to an ancfeor, we fhould #ad t$$t the attempt to procure grafs here, would occafi&n much delay, as well as fee attended ymh fome danger. Befides, we were equally in- wmsprnE -water; atod ctboiggfo #e iaha^ bitants had told us, that tthjere "was watsartsi their ifland, yet we neither knew in what jepi&fiffiity, nor from what diftance, we might be obliged to fetch it. And, aftet -all, fuppofing no other obstruction, we were fure, that to get over the reef, would be an operation equally difficult and tedious. Being tfaite difappointed at all the iflands we had met With, fince our leaving New Zealand, and the unfavorable winds, and other unf@r£f*>' feen circumftances, having unavoidably retarded our progrefs fo much, it was now impeffible to tbirak of doing any thing this year, in the high latitudes of the Northern hemifphere, from which we were dill at fo great a diftance, though the feafon for our operations there was already begun. In this fituation, it was absolutely neceffary to purfue fuch meaSures as were mod likely to pre- ferve the cattle we had on board, in the firft place; and, in the next place (which was dill a more capital object), to Save the dores and provisions of the Ships, that we migh be better enabled to proSecute our Northern difcoveries, which could not now commence till a year later than wate originally intended. If I had been So Sortunate as to have procured a fupply of water, and of grafs, at any of the iflands we had lately vifited, it was mypurpoSe to have Stood THE PACIFIC OCEAN. flood back to the South, till I had met with a Wefterly wind. But the certain confequence of doing ^ this, without Such a Supply, would have been the . loSs of all the cattle, before we could poffibly reach Otaheite, without gaining any one advantage, with regard to the great object of our voyage. I, therefore, determined to bear away for the Friendly Iflands, where I was fure of meeting with abundance of every thing I wanted : and it being neceffary to run in the night, as well as in the day, I ordered Captain Clerke to keep about a league ahead of the Refolution, 1 ufed this precaution, becaufe his Ship could beft claw off the land ; and it was very poflible we might fall in with fome, in The longitude of Hervey's Ifland, when firft difcovered, deduced from Otaheite, by the timekeeper, was found to be 201° 6' Eaft, and now, by the fame time-keeper, deduced from Queen Charlotte's Sound, 200° 56' Eaft. Hence I <iSf*--- ; elude, that the error of the time-keeper, at this time, did not exceed twelve miles in longitudlfc^^ When we bore away, I deered Wed by South, with a fine breeze Eaderly. I propofed to proceed fird to Middleburgh, or Eooa; thinking, if the wind continued favourable, that we had food enough on board, for the cattle, to laft till we fhould reach that ifland. But, about noon, next Monday7. day, thofe faint breezes, that had attended and retarded us fo long, again returned; and I found it neceffary to haul more to the North, to get into the latitude of Palmerfton's and Savage Jflands„ difcovered % 1774, during my liii voyage*; that, if neceffity required it, we might have recourfe to them. * See Cook's Voyage, Vol. II. p. 2, 5. This si4 A VOYAGE TO 1777. This day, in order to fave our water, I ordered ei^Lj *^e ^ t0 ^e ^eP£ at work» from fix o'clock in the Sunday2. morning to four in the afternoon; during which time, we procured from thirteen to Sixteen gallons of freSh water. There has been lately made fome improvement, as they are pleafed to call it, of this machine, which, in my opinion, is much for the worfe. Thurf, 10, Thefe light breezes continued till the 10th, when we had, for fome hours, the wind blowing frefh from the North, and North North Weft; being then in the latitude of 180 38', and longitude 1980 24'Eaft. In the afternoon, we had fome thunder Squalls from the South, attended with heavy rain ; of which water, we collected enough to fill five puncheons. After thefe fqualls had blown over, the wind came round to the North Eaft, and North Weft ; being very unfettled both in Strength and in pofition, till about noon the Friday n. next day, when it fixed at North Weft, and North North Weft, and blew a freSh breeze, with fair weather. Thus were we perfecuted with a wind in our teeth, whichever way we directed our courSe • and we had the additional mortification to find here, thofe very winds, which we had reafon to expect 8° or io° farther South. They came too late; for I durft not truft their continuance ; and the event proved that I judged right. Sund. 13. At length, at day-break, in the morning of the 13th, we faw Palmerfton Ifland, bearing Weft by South, diftant about five leagues. However, we Mond. 14. did not get up with it, till eight o'clock the next morning. I then fent four boats, three from the Refolution, and one from the Difcovery, with an officer in each, to Search the coaft for the moft convenient landing-place. For, now, we were under THE- PACIFIC OCEAN. an abfolute neceffity of procuring,, from this ifland, fome food for the cattle; otherwife we muft have loft them. What is comprehended under the name of Pal- merfton's Ifland, is a group of fmall iflots, of which there are, in the whole, nine or ten, lying in a circular direction, and connected together by a reef of coral rocks. The boats firft examined the South Eafternmoft of the iflots which compofe this group; and, failing there, ran down to the fecond, where we had the Satisfaction to fee them land. I then bore down with the Ships, till abreaft of the place, and there we kept Standing off and on. For no bottom was to be found to anchor upon ; which was not of much confequence, as the party who had landed from our boats, were the only human beings upon the ifland. About one o'clock, one of the boats came on board, laden with fcurvy-grafs and young cocoa- nut trees; which, at this time, was a feaft for the cattle. The fame boat brought a meffage from Mr. Gore, who commanded the party, informing me, that there was plenty of fuch produce upon the ifland, as alfo of the wharra tree, and fome cocoa- nuts. This determined me to get a good fupply of thefe articles, before I quitted this Station ; and, before evening, I went afhore in a fmall boat, accompanied by Captain Clerke. We found every body hard at work, and the landing place to be in a fmall creek, formed by the reef, of fomething more than a boat's length in every direction, and covered from the force of the fea, by rocks projecting out on each fide of it. The ifland is fcarcely a mile in circujtj; and not above three feet higher than the level of the fea. It appeared to be compofed entirely of a coral fand, with a Small mixture of blackifh mould, produced from. rotten A VOYAGE T 6 r6ttefl vegetables. Notwithstanding fhlsf*®§Fjiyi| it is covered wftfr trees and bufft& t^thS ffiM kifta J as at Wenooa-ette, though with lefs variety ; and amongft theSe are Some cocoa-palms. Upon the trees or bullies that front the fe8, or even farther in, we found a great number of fMri df w§r birds* Tropic birds, and two Sorts of boobies,' which, at this time, were laying their eggs, and fo tame, that they Suffered us to take them off with our hands. Their neds were only a few flicks loofely put together; Sftd the Tropic birds Mid their eggs on the ground, tfad&r t?Re :#ees. Thefe differ much from the common Soft, b€lrfg erlfirely of a rridft Splendid white, fllj§tely tinged wifh red, and having the two long tail-feathers df^SStp l$irft®n tSJf blood colour. Of each fort, our people killed a confiderable number; and, though not the moft delicate food, they were acceptable enough to us ^-fererhad been long confined to a Salt diet, and who, consequently, cottW not but be glad of the moft indifferent variety.- We met with vaft numbers of red crabs, creeping about, ev§fy where amongft the trees; and we caught Sever§l;nfH that had been left in holes upon the reef, when the Sea retired. At one part of the reef, which looks into, or bounds, the lake that is within, there was a lairge bed of coral, almoft even with the fdfffiee, which afforded, perhaps, one of the mod enchanting profpects, that Nature has, any where, produced. Its bafe was fixed to the Shore, but reached fo fat in, that it could not be feen; So that it Seemed to be SuSpended in the water, which deepened io Suddenly, that, at the distance of a few yards, there might be Seven or eight fathoms. The Sea was, at this fime, quite unruffled ; and the Sun, Shining blight, expofed the various Sorts of coral, in the ifioft beautiful order; fome parts branching into the. I THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 217 the water with great luxu'rfSflce ; others, lying col- fjfj. lieT-eS M round balls, M& W vWious other figures; Ap"]", all which were greatly heightened by Spangles oS the v""
~^ richeft colours, that glowed from a number of large clams, which were every where interSperfed. But the appearance of thefe was ftill inferior to that of the multitude of fiShes, that glided gently along, Seemingly with the mod perfect fecurity. The colours of the dillirent forts were the mod beau- fifSl that can be imagined ; the yellow, blue, red, black, &c. far exceeding any thing that art can produce. Their various forms, alfo, contributed 18 iiBfeafe the richnefs of this Submarine grotto, which could not be Surveyed without a pleafing tranSport, mixed, however, with regret, that a work, So dupendoufly elegant, fhould be concealed, in a place where mankind could Seldom have an opportunity of rendering the praifes judly due to So enchanting a Scene. There were no traces of inhabitants having ever been here; if we except a fmall piece of a canoe that was found upon the beach | which, probably, may have drifted from fome other ifland. But, wt§f. is pretty extraordinary, we faw feveral fmall brown rats on this Spot; a circumdance, perhaps, difficult to account for, unlefs we allow that they were imported in the canoe of which we faw the remains. After the boats were laden, I returned on board, leaving Mr. Gore, with a party, to pafs the night on fhore, in order to be ready to go to work early the next morning. That day, being the 15th, was accordingly Tuefd. 15. fpent, as the preceding one had been, in collecting, and bringing on board, food for the cattle, confiding chiefly of palm-cabbage, young cocoa-nut trees, and the tender branches of the wharra tree. Having got a Sufficient fupply of thefe, by fun- fet, 2i8 AVOYAGETO 1777. fet, I ordered every body on board. But having $mm little or no wind, 1 determined to wait, and to em- j ¥ ploy the next day, by endeavouring to get fome cocoa-nuts for our people, from the next ifland to leeward, where we could obferve that thofe trees were in much greater abundance, than upon that where we had already landed, and where only the wants of our cattle had been relieved. With this view, I kept Handing off and on, all Wedn.16. night; and, in the morning, between eight and nine o'clock, I went with the boats to the Weft fide of the ifland, and landed with little difficulty. I immediately fet the people with me to work, to gather cocoa-nuts, which we found in great abundance. But to get them to our boats was a tedious operation ; for we were obliged to carry them at leaft half a mile over the reef, up to the middle in water, Omai, who was with me, caught, with a fcoop net, in a very fhort time, as much fiSh as Served the whole party on Shore for dinner, befides fending fome to both fhips. Here were alfo great abundance of birds, particularly men-of-war and Tropic birds; fo that we fared fumptuoufly. And it is but doing judice to Omai to fay, that, in thefe excurfions to the uninhabited iflands, he was of the greated ufe. For he not only caught the fifh, but dreffed theSe, and the birds we killed, in an oven, with heated dones, after the fafhion of his country, with a dexterity and good-humour that did him great credit. The boats made two trips, before night, well laden; with the lad, I returned on board, leaving Mr. Williamfon, my third Lieutenant, with a party of men, to prepare an-; other lading for the boats which I propofed to Send next morning. Thurf. 17. I, accordingly, dispatched them at feven o'clock, and they returned laden by noon. No time was loft THE PACIFIC OCEAN. in fending them back for another cargo ; and they carried orders for every body to be on board by funfet. This being complied with, we hoifledin**" the boats and made fail to the Wedward, with a light air of wind from the North. We found this iflot near a half larger than the other, and almofl entirely covered with cocoa-palms; the greated part of which abounded with excellent nuts, having, often, both old and young on the fame tree. They were, indeed, too thick, in many places, to grow with freedom. The other productions were, in general, the fame as at the fird iflot. Two pieces of board, one of which was rudely carved, with an elliptical paddle, were found en the beach. Probably, thefe had belonged to the fame canoe, the remains of which were feen on the other beach, as the two iflots are not above half a mile apart. A young turtle had alfo been lately thrown afhore here, as it was dill full of maggots. There .were fewer crabs than at the lad place; but we found fome fcorpions, a few other infects, and a greater number of fifh upon the reefs. Amongd thefe were fome large eels, beautifully fpotted, which, when followed, would raife themfelves out of the water, and endeavour, with an open mouth, to bite their purfuers. The other forts were, chiefly, parrot-fifh, fhappers, and a brown fpotted rock-fifh, about the fize of a haddock, fo tame, that, inftead of fwimming away, it would remain fixed, wand gaze at us. Had we been in abfolute want, a fufficient fupply might have been had; for thousands of the clams, already mentioned, Stuck upon the reef, fome of which weighed two or three pounds. There were, befides, fome other Sorts of fhell-fifh; particularly, the large periwinkle. When the tide flowed, Several Sharks came in, over the reef, fome of which our people killed; but they rendered A .VOYAGE TO rendered it rather dangerous to walk in the water at that time. "* The party who Were left on fhore with Mr. Williamfon, were a good deal peftered (as Mr. Gore's had been) with mufquitoes, in the night. Some of them, in their excurfions, fhot two curlews, exactly like thofe of England ; and faw fome plovers, or fand-pipers, upon the Shore; but, in the wood, no other bird, befides one or two of the cuckoos that were feen at Wenooa-ette.. Upon the whole, we did not fpend our time un- profitably at this iflot; for we got there about twelve hundred cocoa-nuts, which were equally divided amongft the whole crew; and were, doubt- lefs, of great ufe to them, both on account of the jwice and of the kernel. A fhip, therefore, paf- fing this way, if the weather be moderate, may expect to fucceed as we did. But there is no water upon either of the iflots where we landed. Were that article to be had, and a paflage could be got into the lake, as we may call it, fur- rounded by the reef, where a fhip could anchor, I Should prefer this to any of the inhabited iflands, if the only want were refreshment. For the quantity of fifh that might be procured, would be fufficient ; and the people might roam about unmolested by the petulance of any inhabitants. The nine or ten low iflots, comprehended under the name of Palmerfton's Ifland, may be reckoned the heads or fummits of the reef of coral rock, that connects them together, covered only with a Ain coat of fand, yet clothed, as already obferved, with trees and plants, moft of which are of the fame forts that are found on the low grounds of the high iflands of this ocean. There THE PACIFIC OCEAN. There are different opinions, amongft ingenious tbeorifts, concerning the formation of fuch low^ iflands as Palmerfton's. Some will have it, that,*" in remote times, airiefe little Separate heads or iflots were joined, and formed one continued and more elevated traSt of land, which the fea, rn the revolution of ages, has wafhedaway, leaving only the higher grounds; which,:«time, alSo,will, according to this theory, Share the Same fate. Another conjecture is, that they have been thrown up by earthquakes, and are the effect of internal convulsions of the globe. A £«hird opinion,*'a|id which appears to me as the moft probable one, maintains, t-bafc 'they are formed from fhoals, or coral banks, and, of confequence, increafing. Wkhout mentioning the Several arguments made ufe of in Support of each of thefe fyflsems, I Shall ©$% deScribe Such parts of Palmerfton's Ifland, as fell under my own obfenvation when I landed ui$b$%t0'' The foundation is, every where, a coral rock; the foil is coral fand, with which the decayed vegetables have, but in a few places, intermixed, fo as to rfoMn any thing like mould. From this, a very Strong preSumption ma#:3be drawn, that theSe littie Spots of land, are ilplof very ancient date, nor the remains of larger iflands now bu- jriwlin the ocean. For, upon either of thefe fup- pofitions, more mould muft have been formed, m;#ne part of the original foil would have remained. Another circumstance confirmed this doctrine of the increafe of thefe iflots. We found upon them, far beyond the prefent reach of the fea, even in the moft violent ftorms, elevated coral rocks, which, on examination, appeared to have been perforated, in the fame manner that the rocks are, that now compofe the outer edge of the reef. This evidently Shews, that the i Sea Il V A VOYAGE TO fea had formerly reached fo far; and fome of thefe perforated rocks were almoft in the centre of the ^land. ^ But the ftrongeft proof of the in create, and from the cauSe we have afligned, was the gentle gradation obfervabfe in the plants round the Skirts of the iflands; from within a few inches of high- water mark, to the edge of the wood. In many places, the divifions of the plants, of different growths, were very distinguishable, eSpecially on the lee, or weft-fide. This, I apprehend, to have been the operation of extraordinary high tides, occafioned by violent, accidental gales from the Weftward; which have heaped up the fand beyond the reach of common tides. The regular and gentle operation of thefe latter, again, throw up fand enough to form a barrier againft the next extraordinary high tide, or Storm, fo as to prevent its reaching as far as the former had done, and destroying the plants that may have begun to vegetate from cocoa-nuts, roots, and feed brought thither by birds, or thrown up by the fea. This, doubtlefs, happens very frequently ; for we found many cocoa-nuts, and fome other things, juft Sprouting up, only a few inches beyond where the fea reaches at prefent, in places where, it was evident, they could not have had their origin from thofe, farther in, already arrived at their full growth. At the fame time, the increafe of vegetables will add faft to the height of this new-created land; as the fallen leaves, and broken branches, are, in fuch a climate, foon converted into a true black mould, or foil *. Perhaps * Mr. Anderfon, in his Journal, mentions the following particulars, relative to Palmerfton's Ifland, which ftrongly confirm Captain Cook's opinion about its formation. " On the laft of~ 'I the two iflots, where we landed, the trees, being in great *• numbers, THE PACIFIC- OCEAN. 223 Perhaps there is another caufe, which, if allow- 1777. ed, will accelerate the increafe of thefe iflands as Ap"1- much as any other; and will alfo account for the v^^"' fea having receded from thofe elevated rocks before-mentioned. This is, the Spreading of the coral bank, or reef, into the fea; which, in my opinion, is continually, though imperceptibly, affected. The waves receding, as the reef grows in breadth and height, leave a dry rock behind, ready for the reception of the broken coral and fand, and every other depofit neceffary for the formation of land fit for the vegetation of plants. In this manner, there is little doubt, that,?#a! ■i§l&&§fthe whole reef will become one ifland ; and, I think, it will extend gradually inward, either from the increafe of the iflots already formed; or from the formation of new ones, upon the beds of coral, within the inclofed lake, if once they increafe fo as to rife above the level of the fea. After leaving Palmerdon's Ifland, I fteered Wed, with a view to make the bed of my way to Annamooka. We dill continued to have variable winds, frequently between the North and Wed, with fqualls, fome thunder, and much rain. During thefe Showers, which were, ge"C#ftlly, very copious, we faved a confiderable quantity of water; " numbers, had already formed, by their rotten parts, little " riiings or eminences, which, in time, from the fame caufe, " may become fmall hills. Whereas, on the firft iflot, the trees " being lefs numerous, no fuch thing had, as yet, happened. " Neverthelefs, on that little fpot, the manner of formation " was more plainly pointed out. For, adjoining to it, was a " fmall ifle, which had, doubtlefs, been very lately formed ; as " it was not, as yet, covered with any trees, but had a great ma- " ny ihrubs, fome of which were growing among pieces of coral " that the fea had thrown up. There was ftill a more fure proof " of this method of formation a little farther on, where two " patches of fand, about fifty yards long, and a foot or eighteen " inches high, lay upon the reef, but not, as yet, furnifhed with h a fingle bufh, or tree." 2 2nd 224 A VOYAGE TO 177?. aijyd finding that we could get a greater Supply by ^P^tf. tfee^in, in one fj9U&ifeffl W8 cpuld get by <gliSJ|iJr lation in a month, I laid afide the dill, as a thing afitetigled with more trouble than profit. The heat, whjgj^ had been great for about a njsmth, became,now much more d^f^grefjah^e i# t^jfe sloSe rainy <s$na|Jker; and, from the moi.f£p# attending it, thjgatened foon to be noxious j as tij&ibj^igauld not be kept dry, nor the Skuttles open, for the fea. However, it is remarkable enongb, that though t^e ^nly igfrefhment we had received fince leaving the Cape of GooctJrfe>pg» was tfoat at New Zealand; there was ngfo as yet, a fingle perfon, on be&rjj^-ficfc, frs^i ghgfspiftant uSe of Salt food, or viciffitude of climate. Thurf. 24. In *he night bejtwesn-ihf .^4^h ^jd 25th we pafl- Friday25. ^§g»v$geIfla.®d, w&iah Ifetf&lfefflQ&.-fc* 1774*; Mond. 28. andon the 2^8$b, at jtejnetcjloek in the corning, we got fight of the iflands which lie to the Eaftward $f Annamooka, bearing Mmfa by Weft, about ibur ex :Bfs leagues diftant. I Sleij^d «to the South of thefe iflands, and then hauled up for Annamooka ; T*ft»«b, at four if* the afternoon, bore North Weft bj tNJsutth, J?allafkj§e# SQBth Weft by South, and Komango North by Weft, dift^jt about five miles. The w.ea$faej bei®g>fqually, with rain, I anchored, at the approach of night, in fifteen fathoms deep water, over a bottom of coraWand, and Shells; Komarjgo bearing North Weft, about two leagues diftant. * For an account of the difcovery of Savage Ifland; a defcrip- tion of it; and the behaviour of its inhabitants, on Captain Cook's landing, fee his Voyage, Vol. II. p. 3, to p. 7. CHAP. THE PACIFIC OCEAN, CHAP. IV. Inter eourfe with the Natives of Komango, and other Iflands.—Arrival at Annamooka. —Tranfatlions there.-—Feenou, a principal Chief, from Tongata~ boo, comes on a Vijit.—The Manner of his Reception in the lfland, and on board. — In/lances of the pilfering Difpofition of the Natives. *— Some Account of Annamooka.—The Paffage from it to Hapaee. SOON after we had anchored, two canoes, the 1777. one with four, and the other with three men, April. Paddled toward us, and came along-fide wl^tUX v~"" the leaft hesitation. They brought fome cocoa- nuts, bread-fruit, plantains, and fugar-cane, which they bartered with us for nails. One of the men came on board; and when thefe canoes had left us, another vifited us ; but did not day long, as night was approaching. Komango, the ifland neared to us, was, at lead, five miles»§§£; which Shews the hazard thefe people would run, in order to poSfefs a few of our mod trifling articles. Befides this Supply from the Shore, we caught, this evening, with hooks and lines, a confiderable quantity of fifh. Next morning, at four o'clock, I fent Lieute- Tuefd. 2, nant King, with two boats, to Komango, to procure refreshments; and, at five, made the Signal - to weigh, in order to ply up to Annamooka, die wind being unfavourable at North Wed. Vol. I. Q^ It A VOYAGE TO It was no fooner day-light, than we were vifited ^by fix or feven canoes from different iflands, bringing with them, befides fruits and roots, two pigs, feveral fowls, fome large wood-pigeons, fmall rails, and large violet-coloured coots. All thefe they exchanged with us for beads, nails, hatchets, &c. They had alfo other articles of commerce; fuch as pieces of their cloth, fifh-hooks, fmall bafkets, mu- fical reeds, and fome clubs, Spears and bows. But I ordered, that no curiofities fhould be purchafed, till the fhips fhould be Supplied with provifions, and leave given for that purpofe. Knowing, alfo, from experience, that, if all our people might trade with the natives, according to their own caprice, perpetual quarrels would enfue, I ordered that particular perfons fhould manage the traffic both on board and on fhore, prohibiting all others to interfere. Before mid-day, Mr. King's boat returned with feven hogs, fome fowls, a quantity of fruit and roots for ourfelves, and fome grafs for the cattle. His party was very civilly treated at Komango. The inhabitants did not feem to be numerous ; and their huts, which flood clofe to each other, within a plantain walk, were but indifferent. Not far from them, was a pretty large pond of frefh water, tolerably good; but there was not any appearance of a dream. With Mr. King, came onboard the Chief of the ifland, named Tooboulangee; and another, whofe name was Taipa. They brought with them a hog, as a prefent to me, and promifed more the next day. As foon as the boats were aboard. I dood for Annamooka ; and the wind being fcant, 1 intended to go between Annamooka-ette *, and the ' breakers to the South Ead of it. But, on drawing * That is, Little Annamooka. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 227 near, we met with very irregular foundings, vary- 1777. ing, every cad, ten or twelve fathoms. This^^^- obliged me to give up the defign, and to go to the Southward of all; which carried us to leeward, and made it neceffary to fpend the night under fail. It was very dark; and we had the wind, from every direction, accompanied with heavy Showers of rain. So that, at day-light the next Wedn.30. morning, we found ourfelves much farther off than we had been the evening before; and the little wind that now blew, was right in our teeth. We continued to ply, all day, to very little purpofe; and, in the evening, anchored in thirty- nine fathoms water; the bottom coral rocks, and broken Shells; the Wed point of Annamooka bearing Ead North Ead, four miles didant. -Tooboulangee and Taipa kept their promife, and brought off to me fome hogs. Several others were •alfo procured by bartering, Srom different canoes that followed us; and as much fruit as we could well manage. It was remarkable, that, during the whole day, our vifiters from the iflands would hardly part with any of their commodities to any body but me. Captain Clerke did not get above one or two hogs. At four o'clock next morning, I ordered a boat M^7- to be hoided out, and fent the Mader to found the South Wed fide of Annamooka ; where there appeared to be a harbour, formed by the ifland on the North Eaft, and by Small iflots, and fhoals, to the South Weft and South Ead. In the mean ti,me-.the Ships were got under Sail, and wrought up to the ifland. When the Mader returned, he reported, that he had founded between Great and Little Annamooka, . where he found ten and twelve fathoms depth of water,- the bottom coral fand ; that the place was CL2 very A VOYAGE TO very well fheltered from all winds ; but that there was no frefh water to be found, except at fome diftance inland j and that, even there, little of it was to be got, and that little not good. For this reafon only, and it was a very Sufficient one, I determined to anchor on the North fide of the iflarid^ where, during my lad voyage, I had found a place fit both Sor watering and landing. It was not aboW!a league didant; and yet we did not reach it till five o'clock in the aSternoon, being considerably retarded by the great number of canoes that continually crowded round the fhips, bflntgihg to us abundant Supplies of the produce of their ifland. Amongd thefe canoes, there were Some double ones*^ with a large Sail, that carried between Sorty and fifty men each. Thefe faffes round us, apparently, with the Same eaSe, as if we had been at anchor. T^re^weWfeveral women in the canoes, who were, perhaps, incited by cQl&li- ty to vifit us; though, at the fome time, they bartered as eagerly as the men, and ufed the paddle with equal labour and dexterity. I came to an anchor in eighteen fathoms water, the bottom coarfe coral fand; the ifland extending from Eaft to South Weft ; and the Weft point of the Westernmost cove South Eaft, about three quarters of a mile diftant. Thus I refumed the very Same Station which I had occupied when I vimed Annamooka three years before *; and, probably, alhMft in the Same place where TaSman, the firft diScover- er of this, and fome of the neighbouring iflands, anchored in 1643 T* * See Captain Cook's laft Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 9. + See Tafroan's account of this ifland, in Mr. Dalrymple's valuable Collection of Voyages to the Pacific Ocean, Vol. ii. p. 79, 80. The few particulars mentioned by Tafman, agree remarkably with Captain Cook's more extended relation. The THE PACIFIC OCEAN. The following day, while preparations were making for watering, I went afhore, in the forenoon, accompanied by Captain Clerke, and fome of the Officers, to fix on a place where the obfer- vatories might be fet up, and a guard be Stationed ; the natives, having readily given us leave. They alfo accommodated us with a boat-houfe, to ferve as a tent, and Shewed us every other mark of civility. Toobou, the ChieSof the ifland, conducted me and Omai to his houSe. We found it fituated on a pleaSant Spot, in the centre of his plantation. A fine grafs plot Surrounded it, which he gave us to underdand, was for the purpofe of cleaning their feet, before they went within doors. I had not, before obferved fuch an inftance of attention to cleanlinefs at any of the places I had vifited in this ocean; but, afterward, found that it was very common at the Friendly Iflands. The floor of Toobou's houfe was covered with mats; and no carpet, in the mod elegant Englifh drawing-room, could be kept neater. While we were on fhore, we procured a few hogs, and fome fruit, by bartering ; and, before we got on board again, the fhips were crowded with the natives. Few of them coming empty-handed, every neceffary refreshment was now in the greated plenty. I landed again in the afternoon, with a party of marines; and, at the fame time, the horfes, and Such of the cattle as were in a weakly date, were Sent on fhore. Every thing being fettled to my Satisfaction, I returned to the fhip at fun Set, leaving the command upon the ifland to Mr. King. Taipa, who was now become our fad friend, and who feemed to be the only active perfon about us, in order to be near our party in the night, as well as the day, had a houfe brought, on men's Shoulders, a full quarter of a mile, and placed clofe to the Shed which our party occupied. Next A VOYAGE TO Next day, our various operations on fhore began. r- Some were employed in making hay for the cattle; others in filling out water cafks at the neighbouring dagnant pool; and a third party in cutting wood. The greated plenty of this lad article being abread of the fhips, and in a fituation the mod convenient for getting it on board, it was natural to make choice of this. But the trees here, which our people erroneoufly fuppofed to be man- chineel, but were a fpecies of pepper, called faita- noo by the natives, yielded a juice of a milky colour, of fo corrofive a nature, that if raifed bliders on the fkin, and injured the eyes of-our workmen. They were, therefore, obliged to de- fid at this place, and remove to the cove, in which our guard was Stationed, and where we embarked our water. Other wood, more Suitable to our purpoSes, was there furnifhed to us by the natives. Thefe were not the only employments we were engaged in, for Meffrs. King and Bayly began, this day, to obferve equal altitudes of the fun, in order to get the rate of the time-keepers. In the evening, before the natives retired from our pod, Taipa harangued them for fome time. We could only guefs at the fubject; and judged, that he was indructing them how to behave towards us, and encouraging them to bring the produce of the ifland to market. We experienced the good effects of his eloquence, in the plentiful fupply of provifions which, next day, we received. 174. Nothing worth notice happened on the 4th and Ls- 5th, except that, on the former of thefe days, the Difcovery lod her fmall bower anchor, the cable bnng cut in two by the rocks. This misfortune made it neceffary to examine the cables of the Re- Solution, which were found to be unhurt. On THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 231 On the 6th, we were vifited by a great Chief W7- from Tongataboo, whofe name was Feenou, and v—JZlj whom Taipa was pleafed to introduce to us asTuefd.6, King of all the Friendly Ifles. I was now told, that, on my arrival, a canoe had been difpatched to Tongataboo with the news ; in confequence of which, this Chiefolli*mediately paffed over to Annamooka. The Officer on fhore informed me, that when he firfl arrived, all the natives wereor- :;a|feis3i out to meet him, and paid their obeifance by bowing their heads as low as his feet, the foles of which they alfo touched with each hand, fird with the palm, and then with the back part. There could be little room to Sufpect that a perfon, receive ed with So much refpect, could be any thing lefs "tteiMhe King. In the afternoon, I went to pay this great man a vifit, having fird received a prefent of two fifh from him, brought on board by one of his fer* vants. As foon as I landed, he came up to me. He appeared to be about thirty years of age, tall, but thin, and had more of the European features, than any I had yet feen here. When the fird f&- lutation was oveu^iil afked if he was the King. For, notwithdanding what I had been told, finding he was not the man whom I remembered to have feen under that character during my former voyage, I began to entertain doubts. Taipa officioufly anfwered for him, and enumerated no lefs than one hundred and fifty-three iflands, of which he faid, Feenou was the Sovereign. After a fhort day, our new vifiter, and five or fix of his attendants, accompanied me on board. I gave fuitable prefents to them all, and entertained them in Such a manner, as I thought would be mod agreeable. In the evening, I attended them on Shore in my boat, into which the Chief ordered three hogs to be put. 2-i A VOYAGJS.TO I1777. put» as a return for the/pfgfentss he had received l^ky* from me. I was now informed of an accident which had juft happened, the relation of which will convey fome idea of the extent of the authority exercifed here over the common people. While Feenou was on board my fhip, an inferior Chief, for what reafon our people on Shore did not know, ordered all the natives to retire from the poll we occupied. Some of them having ventured to return, he took up a large flick, and beat them moft unmercifully. He Struck one man, on the fide of the face, with fo much violence, that the blood gufhed out of his mouth and noftrils; and, after lying Some time motionleSs, he was, at laft, removed from the place, in convulfions. The perfon who had inflicted the blow, being told that he had killed the man, only laughed at it; and, it was evident, that he was not in the leaft f$rry for what had happened. We heard, afterward, that the poor Sufferer recovered, Wedn.7. The Difcovery having found again her fmall bower anchor, Shifted her birth on the 7th; but not before her beft bower cable had Shared the fate of the other. This day, I had the company of Thurf. 8. Feenou at dinner; and alfo the next day, when he was attended by Taipa, Toobou, and fome other Chiefs. It was remarkable, that none but Taipa was allowed to fit at table with him, or even to eat in his prefence. 1 own that I confidered Feenou as a very convenient gueft, on account of this etiquette. For, before his arrival, I had, generally, a larger company than I could well find room for, and my table overflowed with crowds of both fexes. For it is not the cuftom at the Friendly Iflands, as it is at Otaheite, to deny to their females the privilege of eating in company with the men. The THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 233 The firft day of our arrival ats^nnamooka, one of 1111. the natives had Stolen, out of tr^rlhip, a large junk May- axe. I now applied to Feenou to exert |i%authority ^'~v * to get it reftored to me; and fo implicit^ was he obeyed, that it was brought on board while we vggff at dinner. TheSe people gave us very frequent opportunities of remarking what expert thieves they were. Even fome of thflftChiefs did not think this pro- feffion beneath them. On the 9th, one of them Friday 9. was detected carrying out of the fhip, concealed under his clothes, the bolt belonging to the fpun yarn winch ; for which I fentenced him to receive a dozen lafhes, and kept him confined till he paid a hog for his liberty. After this, we were not troubled with thieves of rank. Their fervants, or Slaves, however, were ftill employed in this dirty ■VKOEk?} and upon jA$m a flogging feemed to make no greater impreffion, than it would have done upon the main-maft. When any of them hap- penened to be caught in the act, their matters, far from interceding for them,o#puld often advife us to kill them. ii<As this was a punifhment we did not choofe to inflict, they generally efcaped without any punifhment at all; for they appeared to us to be equally infenfible of the fhame, and of the pain of corporal chadifement. Captain Clerke, at lad, hit upon a mode of treatment, which, we thought had fome effect. He put them under the hands of the barber, and completely fhaved their heads ; thus pointing them out as objects of ridicule to their countrymen, and enabling our people to deprive them of future opportunities for a repetition of their rogueries, by keeping them at a distance. Feenou was fo fond of affociating with us, that he dined on board every day ; though, fometimes, he did not partake of our fare. On the 10th, fome Satur. 'i of 234 A VOYAGE TO 1777. of his fervants brought a mefs, which had been ^J^s^ dreffed for him on fhore. It confided of fifh, fotip, v and yams. Inftead of common water to make the foup, cocoa-nut liquor had been made ufe of, in which the fifh had been boiled or ftewed ; probably in a wooden veffel, with hot flones; but it was carried on board in a plantain leaf. I tailed of the mefs, and found it fo good, that I, afterward, had fome fifh dreffed in the Same way. Though my cook Succeeded tolerably well, he could produce nothing equal to the difh he imitated. Finding that we had quite exhaufted the ifland, of almod every article of food that it afforded, I Sundayu. employed the 1 ith in moving off, from the fhore, the horfes, obfervatories, and other things that we had landed, as alfo the party of marines who had mounted guard at our Station, intending to fail, as Soon as the DiScovery Should have recovered her beft bower anchor. Feenou, underftanding that I meant to proceed directly to Tongataboo, importuned me drongly to alter this plan, to which he expreffed as much averSion, as-if he had fome particular intered to promote by diverting me from it. In preference to it, he warmly recommended an ifland, or rather a group of iflands, called Hapaee, lying to the North Ead, There, he affured us, we could be Supplied plentifully with every re- frefhment, in the eafied manner; and, to add weight to his advice, he engaged to attend us thither in perfon. He carried his point with me; and Hapaee was made choice of for our next Station. As it had never been vifited by any European fhips, the examination of it became an object with me. Mond. 12. The 12th, and the 13th, were fpent in attempt- Tuefd. 13- jng tne recovery of Captain Gierke's anchor, which, after much trouble, was happily accomplished ; and Wedn. 14. on the 14th, in the morning, we got under fail, and left Annamooka. This THE PACIFIC OCEAN, This ifland is fomewhat higher than the other fmall ifles that furround it; but, ftill, it cannot be ^ admitted to the rank of thoSe of a moderate height, fuch as Mangeea and Wateeoo, The fhore, at that part where our Ships lay, is compofed of a Steep, rugged coral rock, nine or ten Seet high, except where there are two Sandy beaches, which have a reef of the fame Sort of rock extending crofs their entrance to the fhore, and defending them from the fea. The fait water lake that is in the center of the ifland, is about a mile and a half broad; and round ir, the land rifes like a bank, with a gradual afcent. But we could not trace its having any communication with the Sea. And yet, the land that runs acroSs to it, from the largeft Sandy beach, being flat and low, and the foil Sandy, it is moft likely that it may have, formerly, communicated that way. The Soil, on the rifing parts of the ifland, and efpecially toward the Sea, is either of a reddifh clayey diSpofition, or a black, loofe mould; but there is, no where, any Stream of frefh water. The ifland is very well cultivated, except in a few places; and there are Some others, which, though they appear to lie wafle, are only left to recover the Strength exhausted by conftant culture; Sor we frequently faw the natives at work upon thefe fpots, to plant them again. The plantations confift chiefly of yams and plantains. Many of them are very extenfive, and often inclofed with neat fences of reed, difpofed obliquely acrofs each other, about fix feet high. Within thefe, we often Saw other fences of lefs compafs, furrounding the houfes of the principal people. The bread-fruit, and cocoa-nut trees, are interfperfed with little order ; but chiefly near the habitations of the natives; and the other parts of the ifland, efpecially toward the fea, and about the fides of the lake, are covered A VOYAGE TO ecbi&kh trees and bufhes of a moft luxuriant growth; the laft place having a great many mangroves, and "J the firft a vaft number of the faitanoo trees already mentioned. There feem to be no rocks, or Stones, of any kind, about the ifland,i$bat are not coral; except in one place, to the right of the fandy beach, where there is a rock twenty or thirty feet high, of a calcareous Stone, of a yellowish colour, and a very clofe texture. But even about that place, which is the higheft part of the land, are large pieces of -the fame coral rock that compofes the Shore. Befides walking frequently up into the country, which we were permitted to do without interruption, we fometimes amufed ourfelves in Shooting wild ducks, not unlike the widgeon, which are very numerous upon the fait lake, and the pool where we got our water. In thefe excursions, we found the inhabitants had often deferted their houfes to come down to the trading place, without entertaining any Suspicion, that Strangers, rambling about, would take away, or dedroy, any thing that belonged to them. But though, from this circumftance, it might be fuppofed that the greater part of the natives were fometimes collected at the beach, it was impoffible to form any accurate computation of their number; as the continual refort of vifiters from other iflands, mixing with them, might eafily miflead one. However, as there was never, to appearance, about a thoufand perfons collected at onetime, it would, perhaps, be fufficient to allow double that number for the whole ifland. To the North and North Eaft of Annamooka, and in the direct tract to Hapaee, whither we were now bound, the fea is fprinkled with a great number of fmall ifles. Amidft the Shoals and rocks adjoining to this group, I could not be affured that there was a free or Safe paffage for fuch large fhips THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 235 as ours; though the natives failed through the in- 1777- ter^lstn-jbeir canoes. For this fubdantial reafon, May- when we weighed anchor from Annamooka, I v~"~ thought it neceffary to go to the Wedward ofWedn. 1 the above iflands, and deered North North Wed, toward Kao * and Toofoa, the two mod Wederly iflands in fight, and remarkable for their great height. Feenou, and his attendants, remained on board the Refolution till near noon, when he went into the large failing canoe, which had brought him from Tongataboo, and flood in amongd the clufter of iflands above mentioned, of which we were now almod abread ; and a tide or current from the Wedward had fet as, fince our failing in the mornings mfach over toward them. They lie fcattered, at unequal didances, and are, in general, nearly as high as Annamooka; but iCMjty/from two or three miles, to half a mile in length, and fome of them fcarcely fo much. They have either deep rocky Shores like Annamooka, or reddifh cliffs; but fome have fandy beaches extending almod tfaeir whole length. Moft of them are entirely clothed with trees, amongft which are many cocoa palms, and each forms a profpect like a beautiful garden placed in the fea. To heighten this, the Serene weather we now had, contributed very much; and the whole might Supply the imagination with an idea of fome fairy land * As a proof of the great difficulty of knowing accurately the exact names of the South Sea Iflands, as procured from the natives, I obferve -hat what Captain Cook calls Aghao, Mr. Anderfon calls Kao \ and Tafman's drawing, as I find it in Mr. Dal- rymple's Collection of Voyages, gives the name of Kaybay to the .fame ifland. Tafman's and Captain Cook's Amattafoa, is, with Mr. Anderfon, Tofoa. Captain Cook's Komango, is Tafman's Amango. There is fcarcely an inftance, in which fuch variations are not obfervable. Mr. Anderfon's great attention to matters of this fort being, as we learn from Captain King, well known to every body on board, and admitted always by Captain Cook .himfelf, his mode of fpelling has been adopted on the engraved chart of the Friendly Iflands; which has made it neceffary to adopt it alfo, in printing the jonrnal, realized. VOYAGE TO realized. It fhould feem, that fome of them, at leaft, may have been formed, as we fuppofed Pal- ~* merfton's Ifland to have been; for there is one, which, as yet, is entirely fand, and another, on which there is only one buSh, or tree. At four o'clock in the afternoon being the length of Kotoo, the Wefternmoft of the above clufter of fmall iflands, we fteered to the North, leaving Toofoa and Kao on our larboard, keeping along the Weft fide of a reef of rocks, which lie to the Weftward of Kotoo, till we came to their Northern extremity, round which we hauled in for the ifland. It was our intention to have anchored for the night; but it came upon us before we could find a Jpla&S in lefs than fifty-five fathoms water; and rather than come to in this depth, I chofe to Spend the night under fail. We had, in the afternoon, been within two leagues of Toofoa, the fmoke of which we faw feveral times in the day. The friendly Iflanders have fome fuperftitious notions about the volcano upon it, which they call Kollofeea, and fay it is an Otooa, or divinity. According to their account, it fometimes throws up very large ftones; and they compare the crater, to the fize of a fmall iflot, which has never ceafed fmoking in their memory ; nor have they any tradition that it ever did. We Sometimes faw the fmoke rifing from the centre of the ifland, while we were at Annamooka, though at the diftance of at lead ten leagues. Toofoa, we were told, is but thinly inhabited, but the water upon it is good. At day-break the next morning, being then not ' far from Kao, which is a vad rock of a conic figure, 't we fteered to the Eaft, for the paffage between the iflands Footooha and Hafaiva, with a gentle breeze at South Ead. About ten o'clock, Feenou came on board, and remained with us all day. 2 He THE PACIFIC OCEAN. He brought with him two hogs, and a quantity of fruit; and, in the eourfe of the day, feveral canoes, from the different iflands round us, came*" to barter quantities of the latter article, which was very acceptable, as our flock was nearly expended. At noon, our latitude was 190 49' 45" South, and we had made feven miles of longitude from Annamooka; Toofoa bore North, 88° Wed; Kao North, 71° Wed; FootoohaNorth, 890 Wed; and Hafaiva South, 1 z° Wed, . Afrer paffing Footooha, we met with a reef of rocks; and, as there was but little wind, it cod us fome trouble to keep clear of them. This reef lies between Footooha and Neeneeva, which is a fmall low ifle, in the direction of Ead North Ead from Footooha, at the diftance of feven or eight miles. Footooha is a fmall ifland, of middling height, and bounded all round by a Steep rock. It lies South 670 Ead, didant fix leagues from Kao, and three leagues from Kotoo, in the direction of North 3.30 Ead. Being pad the reef of rocks jud mentioned, we hauled up for Neeneeva, in hopes of finding anchorage; but were again difappointed, and obliged to Spend the night, making Short boards. For, although we had land in every direction, the Sea was unfathomable. In the eourfe of this night, we could plainly See flames iffuing from the volcano upon Toofoa, though to no great height. At day-break in the morning of the 16th, Friday is. with a gentle breeze at South Eaft, we fteered North Eaft for Hapaee, which was now in fight; and we could judge it. to be low land, from the trees only appearing above the water. About nine o'clock, we could fee it plainly forming three iflands, nearly of an equal fize; and foon after, a fourth to the Southward of thefe, as large A VOYAGE TO large as the others. Each feemed to be about fix or feven miles long, and of a Similar height and appearance. The }Me>rtb&rrtmoft of them is called Haanno, the next Foa, the third Lefooga, and the Southernmoft Hoolaiva; but all four are included, by the natives, under the general name Hapaeee. The wind feanting upon us, we could not fetch the land; fo that we were forced to ply to windward. In doing this, we oncw faffed over fome coral rocks, on which we hatPbnly fix fathoms water j but the moment we were over them, found no ground with eighty fathoms of line. At this time, the ifles of Hapaee bore, from North, 500 Eaft, to South, 90 Weft. We got up with the Northernmoft of theSe ifles by SunSet; and there found ourfelves in the very fame diftrefs, for want of anchorage, that we had experienrjfaf the two preceding evenings; fo that we had another night to fpend under fail, with land and breakers in every direction. Toward the evening, Feenou, who had been on board all day, went forward to Hapaee, and took Omai ilgthe canoe with him. He did not forget our difagreeable fituation ; and kept up a good fire, all night, by way of a land-mark. As foon as the day-light returned, being then clofe in with Foa, we faw it was joined to Haanno, by a reef running even with the furface of the Sea, from the one ifland to the other, i now dispatched a boat to look for anchorage. A proper place was foon found; and we came to, abreaftof a reef, being that which joins?:fefooga to Foa (in the fame manner that Fo^%joined to Haanno), having twenty-four fathoms depth of water; the bottom coral fand. In this Station, the northern point of Hapaee, or the North end of Haanno, bore North, 16° Eaft, The Southern point of 1 Hapaee3 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Hapaee, or the South end of Hoolaiva, South, 29° Weft ; and the North end of Lefooga, South, 6$" ■ Eaft. Two ledges of rocks lay without us; the one bearing South, 500 Weft; and the other Weft by North ~ North, diftant two or three miles. We lay before a creek in the reef, which made it convenient landing at all times; and we were not above three quarters of a mile from the fhore. Vol. I. A VOYAGE TO CHAP. V. Arrival of the Ships at Hapaee, and friendly Reception there. — Prefents and Solemnities on the Occafion.—Single- Combats with Clubs.—Wreft- ling and Boxing Matches.— Female Combatants. — Marines exercifed. — A Dance performed by Men.—- Fireworks exhibited. — The Night-enter- tainments of Singing and Dancing particularly defcrihed. BY the time we had anchored, the Ships were filled with the natives, and furrounded by a ,. multitude of canoes, filled alfo with them. They brought, from the Shore, hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, which they exchanged for hatchets, knives, nails, beads, and cloth. Feenou and Omai having come on board, after it was light, in order to introduce me to the people of the ifland, I foon accompanied them on fhore, for that purpofe, landing at the North part of Lefooga, a little to the right of the Ship's Station. The Chief conducted me to a houfe, or rather a hut, fituated clofe to the Sea-beach, which I had Seen brought thither, but a Sew minutes before, for our reception. In this Feenou, Omai, and myfelf, were feated. The other Chiefs, and the multitude, compofed a circle, on the outfide, fronting us; and they alfo fat down. I was then afked, How long I intended to Stay ? On my faying, Five days, Taipa was ordered to come and fit by me, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 24.' me, and proclaim this to the people. He then 17*7- harangued them, in a fpeech moftly dictated bys_J^>> Feenou. The purport of it, as 1 learnt from ^""v"""*' Omai, was, that they were all, both old and young, to look upon me as a friend, who intended to remain with them a few days; that,during my flay, they muft not Steal any thing, nor molefl me any other way; and that it was expected, they fhould bring hogs, fowls, fruit, &c. to the fhips, where they would receive, in exchange for them, fuch and fuch things, which he enumerated. Soon after Taipa had finished this addrefs to the affembly, Feenou left us. Taipa then took occafion to fig- nify to me, that it was neceffary I fhould make a prefent to rhe Chief of the ifland, whofe name was Earoupa. I was not unprepared for this; and gave him fuch articles as far exceeded his expectation. My liberality to him brought upon me demands, of the fame kind, from two Chiefs of other ifles who were prefent; and from Taipa himfelf. When Feenou returned, which was immediately after I had made the laft of thefe preSents, he pretended to be angry with Taipa for fuffering me to give away fo much ; but I looked upon this as a mere fineffe; being confident that he acted in concert with the others. He now took his Seat again, and ordered Earoupa to fit by him, and to harangue the people as Taipa had done, and to the Same.purpoSe; dictating as before, the heads of the fpeech. Thefe ceremonies being performed, the Chief, at my requefl, conducted me to three dagnanr pools of frefh water, as he was pleafed to call it : and, indeed, in one of thefe the water was tolerable, and the fituation not inconvenient for filling our cafks. After viewing the watering-place, we returned to our former dation, where I found a baked hog, and fome yams, fmoking hot, ready to R 2 be A VOYAGE TO be carried on board for my dinner. I invited Fee- _,nou, and his friends, to partake of it; and we embarked for the fhip; but none but himfelf fat down with us at the table. After dinner I conducted them on fhore; and before I returned on board, the Chief gave me a fine large turtle, and a quantity of yams. Our fupply of provifions was copious; for, in the eourfe of the day, we got, by barter, along-fide the fhip, about twenty fmall hogs, befide fruit and roots. I was told, that, on my fird landing in the morning, a man came off to the fhips, and ordered every one of the natives to go on (hore. Probably, this was done with a view to have the whole body of inhabitants prefent at the ceremony of my reception ; for when that was over, multitudes of them returned again to the fhips. 3- Next morning early, Feenou, and Omai, who fcarcely ever quitted the Chief, and now Slept on fhore, came on board. The object of the vifir, was to require my prefence upon the ifland. After fome time, I accompanied them ; and, upon landing, was conducted to the fame place where 1 had been feated the day before; and where I faw a large concourfe of people already affembled. I gueffed that fomething more than ordinary was in agitation; but could not tell what, nor could Omai inform me. I had not been long feated, before near a hundred of the natives appeared in fight, and advanced, laden with yams, bread-fruit, plantains, cocoa- nuts, and fugar canes. They depofited their burdens, in two heaps, or piles, upon our left, being the fide they came from. Soon after, arrived a number of others from the right, bearing the fame kind of articles; which were collected into two piles upon that fide. To thefe were tied two pigs, and THE PACIFIC OCEAN. and fix fowls; and to thofe, upon the left, fix pigs, and two turtles. Earoupa feated himfelf before the feveral articles upon the left; and another Chief *~ before thofe upon the right; they being, as 1 judged, the two Chiefs who had collected them, by order of Feenou, who feemed to be as implicitly obeyed here, as he had been at Annamooka; and, in confequence of his commanding fuperiority over the Chiefs of Hapaee, had laid this tax upon them for the prefent occafion. As foon as this munificent collection of provisions was laid down in order, and difpofed to the bed advantage, the bearers of it joined the multitude, who formed a large circle round the whole. Prefently after, a number of men entered this circle, or area, before us, armed with clubs, made of the green branches of the cocoa-nut tree. Thefe paraded about, for a few minutes, and thentje^St ed; the one half to one fide, and the other half to the other fide; feating themfelves before the fpectators. Soon after, they fucceffively entered the lids, and entertained us with fingle combats. One champion, rifing up and depping forward from one fide, challenged thofe of the other fide, by expreffive gedures, more than by words, to fend one of their body to oppofe him. If the challenge was accepted, which was generally the cafe, the two combatants put themfelves in proper attitudes, and then began the engagement, which continued till one or other owned himfelf conquered, or till their weapons were broken. As foon as eaph combat was over, the victor fquatted himfelf down facing the Chief, then rofe up, and retired. At the fame time, fome old men, who feemed to fit as judges, gave their plaudit in a few words; and the multitude, efpecially thofe on the fide to which the victor belonged, celebrated the glory he had acquired, in twq or three huzzas. This 246 AVOYAGETO 1777, . This entertainment was, now and then, fufpend- Nfey- ed for a few minutes. During thefe intervals there v-"~v-—' were both wredling and boxing matches. The fird were performed in the fame manner as at Otaheite; and the fecond differed very little from the method practiSed in England. But what druck us with mod SurpriSe, was, to See a couple of ludy wenches dep forth, and begin boxing, without the lead ceremony, and with as much art as the men. This conted, however, did not laft above half a minute, before one of them gave it up. The conquering heroine received the fame applaufe from the fpec- tators, which they bellowed upon the fuccefsful combatants of the other fex. We expreffed fome diflike at this part of the entertainment; which, however, did not prevent two other females from entering the lifts. They feemed to be girls of fpi- ift, and would certainly have given each other a good drubbing, if two old women had not inter- pofed to part them. All thefe combats were exhibited in the midft of, at leaft, three thoefand people ; and were conducted with the greateft good humour on all fides; though fome of the champions, women as well as men, received blows, which, doubtlefs, they muft have felt for fome time after. As foon as thefe diverfions were ended, the Chief told me, that the heaps of provisions, on our right- hand, were a prefent to Omai; and that thofe, on citft- left-hand, being about two-thirds of the whole quantity, were given to me. He added, that I might take them on board whenever it was convenient ; but that there would be no occafion to fet any of our people as guards over them, as I might be affured, that not a fingle cocoa-nut would be taken away by the natives. So it proved ; for I •left fevery thing behind, and returned to the Ship to dinner, carrying the Chief with me ; and when tha May. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. the provifions were removed on board, in the afternoon, not a fingle article was miffing. There was as much as loaded four boats; and 1 could not but be Struck with the munificence of Feenou; for this prefent far exceeded any I had ever received from any of the Sovereigns of the various iflands I had vifited in the Pacific Ocean. I loft no time in convincing my friend, that I was not infenfible of his liberality; for, before he quitted my fhip, I beflowed upon him fuch of our commodities, as, I gueffed, were moft valuable in his eftimation. And the return 1 made was fo much to his Satisfaction, that, as foon as he got on fhore, he left me (till indebted to him, by fending me a frefh. prefent, confifting of two large hogs, a confiderable quantity of cloth and fome yams. Feenou had expreffed a defire to fee the marines go through their military exercife. As I was de- firous to gratify his curiofity, I ordered them all afhore, from both fhips, in the morning of the 20th. After they had performed various evoluti-Tuefd. ons, and fired feveral vollies, with which the numerous body of fpectators feemed well pleafed, the Chief entertained us, in his turn, with an exhibition, which, as was acknowledged by us all, was performed with a dexterity and exactnefs, far furpaffing the Specimen we had given of our military manoeuvres. It was a kind of a dance, So entirely different from any thing I had ever feen, that, I fear, I can give no defcription that will convey any tolerable idea of it, to my readers. It was performed by men ; and one hundred and five perfons bore their parts in it. Each of them had in his hand an instrument neatly made, Shaped fome- what like a paddle, of two feet and a half in length, with a fmall handle, and a thin blade; fo that they were very light. .'...W'th thefe indruments they made many and various flourishes, each of which was Jf 248 A VOYAGE TO was accompanied with a different attitude of the body, or a different movement. At fird, the per- Jformers ranged themfelves in three lines; and, by various evolutions, each man changed his dation in fuch a manner, that thofe who had been in the rear, came into the front. Nor did they remain . long in the Same pofition ; but theSe changes were made by pretty quick tranfitions. At one time, they extended themfelves in one line; they, then, formed into a femicircle; and, ladly, into two fquare columns. While this lad movement was executing, one of them advanced, and performed an antic dance before me; with which the whole ended. The mufical indruments confided of two drums, or rather two hollow logs of wood, from which fome varied notes were produced, by beating on them with two dicks. It did not, however, appear to me, that the dancers were much affided or directed by thefe founds, but by a chorus of vocal mufic, in which all the performers joined at the fame time. Their fong was not deditute of pleaf- ing melody; and all their corresponding motions were executed with fo much Skill, that the numerous body of dancers feemed to act, as if they were one great machine. It was the opinion of every one of us, that fuch a performance would have met with univerfal applaufe on a European theatre; and it So far exceeded any attempt we had made to entertain them, that they feemed to picque themfelves upon the fuperiority they had over us. As to our mufical indruments, they held none of them in the leaft efteem, except the drum ; and even that they did not think equal to their own. Our French horns, in particular, feemed to be held in great contempt; for neither here, nor at any other of the iflands, would they pay the fmalleft attention to them. In THE PACIFIC OCEAN. In order to give them a more favourable opinion of Englifh amufements, and to leave their minds u fully impreffed with the deepeft SenSe of our fuperior attainments, I diredSld fome fireworks to be got ready ; and, after it*'-Was dark, played them off in the pretence of Feenou, the other Chiefs, and a vafl concourfe of their people. Some of the preparations we found damaged ; but others of them were in excellent order, and fucceeded So perfectly, as to anfwer the end I had in view. Our water and fky-rockets, in particular, pleafed and aflonifh- ed them beyond all conception ; and the Scale was now turned in our favour. This, however, feemed only td^Hjrnifh them with an additional motive to proceed to frefh exertions of their very Angular dexterity ; and our fireworks were no Sooner ended, than a Succeffion of dances, which Feenou had got ready for our entertainment, began As * a prelude to them, a band of mufic, or chorus of eighteen men, feated themfelves before us, in the centre of the circle, compofed by the numerous fpectators, the area of which was to be the fcene of the exhibitions. Four or five of this band, had pieces of large bamboo, frdb$%hree to five or fix feet long, each managed by one man, who field it nearly in a vertical pofition, the upper end open, but the other end clofed by one of the joints. With this clofe end, the performers kept constantly ftriking the ground, though Slowly, thus producing different notes, according to the different lengths of the inftruments, but all of them of the hollow or bafe fort; to counteract which, a perfon kept ftriking quickly, and wittHtwo Sticks, a piece of the fame fubftance, fplit, and laid along the * Mr. Anderfon's account of the night dances being much fuller than Captain Cook's, the reader will not be difpleafed that it has been adopted. ground, A VOYAGE TO ground, and, by that means, furnifhing a tone as acute, as thofe produced by the others were grave. The reft of the band, as well as thofe who performed upon the bamboos, fung a flow and Soft air, which fo tempered the hariher notes of the above inftruments, that no bye-Slander, however accuflomed to hear the moft perfect and varied modulation of fweet founds, could avoid confeffing the vaft power, and pleating effect, of this fimpie harmony. The concert having continued about a quarter of an hour, twenty women entered the circle. Moft of them had, upon their heads, garlands of the crimfon flowers of the China rofe, or others ; and many of them had ornamented their perfons with leaves of trees, cut with a great deal of nicety about the edges. They made a circle round the chorus, turning their faces toward it, and began by finging a foftair, to which refponfes were made by the chorus in the fameJtone ; and thefe were repeated alternately. All this while, the women accompanied their fong with feveral very graceful motions of their hands toward their faces, and in other directions at the fame time, making con- flantly a dep forward, and then back again, with one foot, while the other was fixed. They then turned their faces to the adembly, fung fome time, and retreated Slowly in a body, to that part of the circle which was oppofite the hut where the principal fpectators fat. After this, one of them advanced from each fide, meeting and pafling each other in the front, and continuing their progrefs round, till they came to the red. On which, two advanced from each fide, two of whom alfo paded each other, and returned as the former; but the other two remained, and to thefe came one, from each fide, by intervals, till the whole number THE PACIFIC OCEAN. number had again formed a circle about the chorus. s- Their manner of dancing was now changed to a quicker meafure, in which they made a kind of half" turn by leaping, and clapped their hands, and fnapped their fingers, repeating fome words in conjunction with the chorus. Toward the end, as the quickngfs of the mufic increaSed, their geftures and attitudes were varied with wonderfulj^gour and dexterity; and Some of their motions, perhaps, would, with us, be reckoned rather indecent. Though this part of the performance, mod probably, was not meant to convey any wanton ideas, but merely to difplay the adonifhing variety of their movements. To this grand female ballet, facceeded one performed by fifteen men. Some of them were old ; but their age feemed to have abated little of their agility or ardour for the dance. They were dif- pofed in a Sort of circle, divided at the front, with their faces not turned out toward the af- fembly, nor inward to the chorus; but one half of their circle faced forward as they had advanced, and the other half in a contrary direction. They, fometimes, fung flowly, in concert with the chorus ; and, while thus employed, they alfo made feveral very fine motions with their hands, but different from thofe made by the women, at the fame time inclining the body to either fide alternately, by railing one leg, which was Aretched. •outward, and retting on the other; the arm of the Same fide being alSo dretched fully upward. At other times, they recited Sentences in a mufical tone, which were anfwered by the chorus; and, at intervals, increafed the meafure of the dance, by clapping the hands, and quickening the motions of the feet, which, however, were never varied. i At 252 I777"- May.' A VOYAGE TO At the end, the rapidity of the mufic,'and of the ; dancing, increafed fo much, that it was fcarcely pof- fible to distinguish the different movements; though one might SuppoSe the actors were now almod tired, as their performance had laded near half an hour. After a confiderable interval, another act, as we may call it, began. Twelve men now advanced, who placed themfelves in double rows fronting each other, but on oppofite fides of the circle; and, on one fide, a man was dationed, who, as if he had been a prompter, repeated feveral fentences, to which the twelve new performers, and the chorus, replied. They then fung Slowly; and afterward danced and fung more quickly, for about a quarter of an hour, after the manner of the dancers whom they had fucceeded. Soon after they had finifhed, nine women exhibited themfelves, and fat down fronting the hut where the Chief was. A man then rofe, and Struck the fird of thefe women on the back, with both fids joined. He proceeded, in the fame manner, to the fecond and third ; but when he came to the fourth, whether from accident or defign I cannot tell, indead of the back, he Struck her on the breaft. Upon this, a perSon roSe inftantly from the crowd, who brought him to the ground with a blow on the head; and he was carried off without the leaft noife or diforder. But this did not fave the other five women from fo odd a discipline, or perhaps neceffary ceremony; Sor a perSon Succeeded him, who treated them in the Same manner. Their difgrace did not end here; Sor when they danced, they had the mortification to find their performance twice disapproved of, and were obliged to repeat it. This dance did not differ much from that of the firft women, except in ih s one circumftance, that the prefent fet, fbmetiiv.es laifcd the body upon one leg, by THE PACIFIC OCEAN. by a Sort of double motion, and then upon the other alternately, in which attitude they kept Snapping their fingers ; and, at the end, they repeated, with great agility, the brifk movements, in which the former group of female dancers had (hewn themfelves fo expert. In a little time, a perfon entered unexpectedly, and faid fomething in a ludicrous way, about the fireworks that had been exhibited, which extorted a burft of laughter from the multitude. After this, we had a dance compofed of the men who attended, or had followed, Feenou. They formed a double circle mem one within another) of twen- four eac&xround the chorus, and began a gentle foothing fong, with corj&feonding motions of the hands and head. This lafted a confiderable time, and then changed to a-much quicker meafure, during which they repeated fentences, either in conjuncBM with the chorus, or in anfwer to fome fpoken by that band. They then retreated to the back part of the circle, as the women had done, and again advanced, on each fide, in a triple row, till they formed a femicircle, which was done very Slowly, by inclining the body on one leg, and advancing the other a little way, as they put it down. They accompanied this, with fuch a foft air as they had fung at the beginning; but foon changed it to repeat fentences in a harfher tone, at the fame time quickening the dance very much, till they finifhed with a general fhout and clap of the hands. The fame was repeated feveral times; but, at lad, they formed a double circle, as at the beginning, danced, and repeated very quickly, and finally clofed with Several very dexterous tranSpofitions of the two circles. The entertainments of this memorable night concluded with a dance, in which the principal 2 people A VOYAGE TO people prefent exhibited. It refembled the imme* diateiy preceding one, in fome refpects, having the fame number of performers, who began nearly in the fame way; but their ending, at each interval, was different. For they increafed their motions toa prodigious quicknefs, fhaking their heads from Shoulder to Shoulder, with Such Sorce, that a Spectator, unaccuflomed to the fight, would fuppofe, that they ran a rifk of dislocating their necks. This was attended with a Smart clapping of the hands, and a kind of favage holla! or Shriek, not unlike what is fometimes practifed in the comic dances on our European theatres. They formed the triple Semicircle, as the preceding dancers had done; and a perfon, who advanced at the head on one fide of the Semicircle, began by repeating fomething in a truly mufical recitative, which was delivered with an air fo graceful, as might put to the blufh our mod applauded performers. He was anfwered in the fame manner, by the perfon at the head of the oppofite party. This being repeated feveral times, the whole body, on one fide, joined in the refponfes to the whole correfponding body on the oppofite fide, as the Semicircle advanced to the front; andthey finifh- ed, by tinging and dancing as they had begun. TheSe two lad dances were performed with fo much Spirit, and So great exactnefs, that they met with univerSal approbation. The native Spectators, who, no doubt, were perfect judges whether the Several performances were properly executed, could not withhold their applaufes at Some particular parts; and even a dranger, who never faw the diverfion before, felt fimilar Satisfaction, at the fame indant. For though, through the whole, the mod drict concert was obferved, fome of the gedures were So ex- preflive, that it might be Said, they Spoke the language that accompanied them; if we allow that there is any connection between motion and found. At THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 255 At the Same time, it fhould be obServed, that 1777- though the mufic of the chorus, and that of the ^^^T dancers, corresponded, condant practice in thefe ^"v~"*" favourite amuSements of our friends, feems to have a great Share in effecting the exact time they keep in their performances. For we obferved, that if any of them happened accidentally to be interrupted, they never found the fmalled difficulty in recovering the proper place of the dance or Song. And their perfect difcipline was, in no indance, more remarkable, than in the fudden tranfitions they fo dexteroufly made from the ruder exertions, and harfh founds, to the fofted arts and gentled movements *. The place where the dances were performed, was an open fpace amongd the trees, jud by the Sea, with lights, at Small intervals, placed round the in- fide of the circle. The concourfe of people was pretty large, though not equal to the number aflem- bled in the forenoon, when the marines exercifed. At that time, Some of our gentlemen gueffed there might be prefent about five thoufand perfons; others thought there were more ; but they who reckoned that there were fewer, probably, came nearer to the truth. * In a former note, at p. 188. it was obferved, that the fongs and dances of the Caroline Wanders, in the North Pacific, bear a great refemblance to thofe of the inhabitants of Wateeoo. The remark may be now extended to thole of the Friendly Iflanders, defcribed at large in this chapter .That the reader may judge for himfelf, I have feledted the following particulars from Father Can- tova's account. " Pendant la nuit, au clair de la lune, ils " s'affemblent, de temps en temps, pour chanter & danfer de- " vant la maifon de leur Tamole. Leurs danfes fe font au fon de " la voix, car ils n'ont point d'inftrument de mufique. La beaute " de la danfe, confifte dans I'exa&e uniformite des mouvemens " du corps. Les hommes, fepares des femmes, fe poftent vis- " i-vis les uns des autres-, apres quoi, ils remuent la tete, les bras, " les mains, les pieds, en cadence.—Leur tete eft couverte de " plumes, oudefleurs;—etl'onvoit, attachees-1 leurs oreilles, " des feuilles de palmier tiffuesavec affez d'art.—Les femmes, de " leur cote,—fe regardant les unes les autres, commencent un •'-chant pathetique & langoureux, accompagnant le fon de leur " voix du mouvement cadence de la tete & des bras.". Lettres Edifiantes& Curieufes, Tom. xv.p. 314, 315. CHAP. A VOYAGE TO CHAP. VI. Defcription of Lefooga. —Its cultivated State.-—Its Extent.—Tranfatlions there.—A Female Ocu- lifi.—Singular Expedients for /having off the Hair.—The Ships change their Station.—A remarkable Mount and Stone.—Defcription of Hoo- laiva.—Account of Poulaho, King of the Friendly Iflands.—Refpetlful Manner in which he is treated by his People.—Departure from the Hapaee Iflands.—Some Account of Kotoo.—Return of the Ships to Annamooka.—Poulaho and Feenou meet.—*• Arrival at Tongataboo, CURIOSITY, on both fides, being now fufficiently gratified, by the exhibition of the various entertainments I have defcribed, I began to have time to look about me. Accordingly, next .day, I took a walk into the ifland of Lefooga, of which 1 was defirous to obtain fome knowledge. I found it to be, in feveral refpects, fuperior to Annamooka. The plantations were both more numerous, and more extenfive. In many places, indeed, toward the fea, efpecially on the Ead fide, the country is dill wade \ owing, perhaps, to the Sandy Soil; as it is much lower than Annamooka, and its Surrounding ifles. But toward the middle of the ifland, the Soil is better ; and the marks of confiderable population, and of improved cultivation, were very confpieuous. For we met here with very large plantation!, inclof- ed THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ied in Such a manner, that the fences running parallel to each other, from fine Spacious public roads-, ^ that would appear ornamental in Countries where rural conveniences have been carried to the greateft perfection. We obferved large fpots covered with the paper mulberry-tree's; and the plantations, in -general, were well docked with Such roots and fruits as are the natural produce of the ifland. To theSe I made Some addition, by fowing the feeds of Indian corn, melons, pumpkins, and the like. At one place was a houSe, four or five times as large as thofe of the common fort, with a large area of grafs before it; and, I take it for granted, the people refort thither on certain public occafions. Near the landing-place* we Saw a mount, two or three feet high, covered with gravel; and on it ftood four or five Small huts, in which;, the natives told us, the bodies of Some of their principal people had been interred. The ifland is not above feven miles long ; and, in fome places, not above two or three broad. The Ead fide of it, which is expofed to the trade-wind, has a reef, running to a confiderable breadth from it, on which the fea breaks with great violence. It is a continuation of this reef that joins Lefooga to Foa, which is not above half a mile didant; and, at low water, the natives can walk upon this reef, which is jtben partly dry, from the one ifland to the other. The fhore itfelf is either a coral rock, fix or Seven feet high, or a Sandy beach; but higher than the Wed fide; which, in general, is not more than three or four feet from the level of the fea, with a Sandy beach its whole length. When I returned Srom my excurfion into the country, and went on board to dinner; I found a large failing canoe fad to the fhips dern. In this canoe was Latooliboula, whom I had feen Vol,. I, - S at A VOYAGE TO at Tongataboo, during my lad voyage; and who was then SuppoSed by us to be the King of that ifland. He Sat in the canoe, with all that gravity, by which, as I have mentioned in my Journal *, he was So remarkably didinguifhed at that time | nor could I, by any intreaties, prevail upon him now to come into the fhip. Many of the iflanders were prefent; and they all called him Areekee, which Signifies King. I had never heard any one of them give this title to Feenou, however extenfive his au- thoiity over them, both here, and at Annamooka, had appeared to be •, which had, all along, inclined me to SuSpect, that he was not the King; though his Sriend Taipa had taken pains to make me believe he was. Latooliboula remained under the fiern till the evening, when he retired in his canoe to one of the iflands. Feenou was on board my Ship at the Same time; but neither of theSe great men took the lead notice of the other. '■■ Nothing material happened the next day, except that fome of the natives dole a tarpaulin, and other things, from off the deck. They were Soon miffed, of n Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 206, 207. The name iinary perfonage is there faid to be Kohagee-too ich cannot, by the moft fkilful etymologift, betor- eaft moft diftant refemblance of Latooliboula. " that Captain Cook mould not take any noti< d the fame perfon by two names fo very diffei y account for this by fuppofmg one to be the name and the other the defcription of hi3 title or rank, >n feems well founded, when we eonfider, that nguage of thefe people, is fometimes ufed to fig- ief; and Dr. Fofter, in his Obfervations, p. 378, here, fpeaks of the fovereign of Tongataboo, j>f their Laioo. This very perfon is called, by 70. Latoo-Nipooroo; which furnifties a very ftrik— a writing down the vever, we can eafily Liboula, as the changes of ally made, upon hearing a lave not been accuftomed. 11 Cook iu writing Latooli- and THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 259 and the thieves purSued; but a little too late. I 1777. applied, thereSore, to Feenou, who, if he was not *iay. king, was at lead veded with the highed authority here, to exert it, in order to have my things re- dored. He referred me to Earoupa; who put me off, from time to time; and, at lad, nothing was done. In the morning of the 23d, as we were going to Friday 23 unmoor, in order to leave the ifland, Feenou, and his prime-minifler Taipa, came along-fide in a failing canoe, and informed me, that they werefet- ting out for Vavaoo, an ifland, which, they faid, lies about two days fail to the Northward of Hapaee. The object of their voyage, they would have me believe, was to get for me an additional fupply of hogs, and fome red-feathered caps for Omai, to carry to Otaheite, where they are in high edeem. Feenou affured me, that he fhould be back in four or five days; and defired me not to fail till his return, when, he promifed, he would accompany me to TongataboO.SOl,.thought this a good opportunity to get fome knowledge of Vavaoo, and propofed to him to go thither with the Ships. But he Seemed not to approve of the plan; and, by way of diverting me from it, told me, that there was neither harbour, nor anchorage about it. I, therefore, confented to wait, in my prefent Station, for his return; and he immediately fet out. The next day, our attention was, for fome Satur. 24, time, taken up with a report, induftrioufly fpread about by fome of the natives, that a fhip, like ours, had arrived at Annamooka fince we left it; and was now at anchor there. The propagators of the report were pleafed to add, that Toobou, the Chief of that ifland, was battening thither to receive thefe new-comers; and as we knew that he had actually left us, we were the more ready to S 2 believe z6o AVOYAGETO 1777. believe there might be fome foundation for the ^J^- flory of this unexpected arrival. However, to gain Some farther information, I went on fhore with Omai, in queft of the man who, it was faid, had brought the fird account of this event from Annamooka. We found him at the houfe of Earoupa; where Omai put fuch quedions to him as I thought neceffary ; and the anfwers he gave, were fo clear and Satisfactory, that I had not a doubt remaining. But, jufl about this time, a Chief, of Some note, whom we well knew, arrived from Annamooka ; and declared, that no fhip was, at that ifland, nor had been, fince our leaving it. The propagator of the report, finding himfelf detected in a falfehood, inftantly withdrew, and we Saw no more of him. What end the invention of this tale could anfwer, was not .eafy to conjecture ; unlefs we fuppofe it to have been artfully contrived, to get us removed from the one ifland to the other. mndayss. In my walk, on the 25 th, I happened to flep into a houfe, where a woman was dreffing the eyes of a young child, who feemed blind; the eyes being much inflamed, and a thin film fpread over them. The inftruments She ufed were two Slender wooden probes, with which fhe had brufhed the eyes fo as to make them bleed. It feems worth mentioning, that the natives of thefe iflands fhould attempt an operation of this fort; though I entered the houfe too late, to defcribe exactly how this female oculift employed the wretched tools fhe had to work with. I was fortunate enough to fee a different operation going on in the fame houfe, of which 1 can give a tolerable account. I found there another woman Shaving a child's head, with a Shark's tooth, duck into the end of a piece of Stick. I obferved, that fhe firft wet the hair with a rag dipped in water, May. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. water, applying her instrument to that part which She had previously Soaked. The operation Seemed^ to give no pain to the child ; although the hair was taken off as cloSe as if one of our razors had been employed. Encouraged by what I now faw, I, foon after tried one of thefe Singular inftruments upon myfelf, and found it to be an excellent fuccedanewn. However, the men of thefe iflands have recourfe to another contrivance when they fhave their beards. The operation is performed with two (hells; one of which they place under a fmall part of the beard, and with the other, applied above, they fcrape that part off. In this manner they are able to fhave very clofe. The procefs is, indeed, rather tedious, but not painful; and there are men amongd them who feem to profefs this trade. It was as common, while we were here, to fee our failors go afhore to have their beards Scraped oft", after the fafhion of Hapaee, as it was to fee their Chiefs come on board to be fhaved by our barbers. Finding that little or nothing of the produce of the ifland was now brought to the fhips, I refolved to change our dation, and to wait Fee- nou's return from Vavaoo, in fome other convenient anchoring place, where refrefhments might dill be met with. Accordingly, in the forenoon of the 26th, we got under fail, and dood to the Mond. 26. Southward along the reef of the ifland; having fourteen and thirteen fathoms water, with a fan- dy bottom. However, we met with feveral detached Shoals. Some of them were difcovered by breakers; fome, by the water upon them appearing difcoloured; and others, by the lead. At half pad two in the afternoon, having already paffed feveral of thefe fhoals, and feeing more of them before us, I hauled into a bay, that lies between the South end of Lefooga, and the North end ©f Hoolaiva, and there anchored in feventeen fathoms a Voyage to thorns water; the bottom acoral-fand; the point of Lefooga bearing South Ead by, Eaft, a mile and a half diftant. The Difcovery did not get to an anchor till funfet. She had touched upon one of the fhoals; but backed off again, without receiving any damage. As foon as we had anchored, I fent Mr. Bligh to found the bay where we were now Stationed; and mySelf, accompanied by Mr. Gore, landed on the Southern part of Lefooga, to examine the country, and to look for frefh water. Not that we now wanted a fupply of this article, having filled all the calks at our late Station; but I had been told, that this part of the ifland could afford us fome, preferable to any we had got at the former watering-place. This will not be the only time I fhall have occafion to remark, that thefe people do not know what good water is. We were conducted to two wells; but the water in both of them proved to be execrable ; and the natives, our guides, affured us that they had none better. Near the South end of the ifland, and on the Weft fide, we met with an artificial mount. From the fize of fome trees there were growing upon it, and from other appearances, Igueffed that it had been raifed in remote times. I judged it to be about forty feet high; and the flfifcmeter of its fummit meafured fifty feet. At the bottom of this mount, flood a done, which mud have been hewn out of coral rock. It was four feet broad, two and a half thick, and fourteen high; and we were told by the natives prefent, that not above half its length appeared above ground. They called it Tangata Arekee*; and faid that it had been fet up, and the mount raifed, by Tangai mge, tsn n; Arekee, king. — **i THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 265 fome of their forefathers, in memory of one of their i777. kings; but how long fince, they could not tell. May. Night coming on, Mr. Gore and I returned on v—~v~—>' board ; and, at the fame time, Mr. Bligh got back from- Sounding the bay, in which he found from fourteen to twenty fathoms water; the bottom, for the mod part fand, but not without Some coral rocks. The place where we now anchored is much better Sheltered than that which we had lately come from; but between the two is another anchoring dation, much better than either. Lefooga and Hoolaiva are divided from each other by a reef of coral rocks, which is dry at low water; fo that one may walk, at that time, from the one to the other, without wetting a foot. Some of our Gentlemen, who landed in the latter ifland, did not find the lead mark of cultivation, or habitation, upon it; except a fingle hut, the refidence of a man employed to catch fifh and turtle. It is rather extraordinary, that it fhould be in this deferred date, communicating So immediately with Le-^- fooga, which is So perfectly cultivated. For, though the foil is quite fandy, all the trees and plants found, in a natural date, on the neighbouring iflands, are produced here with the greated vigour. The Ead fide of it has a reef like Lefooga; and the Weft fide has a bending, at the North part, where there feems to be good anchorage. Uninhabited as Hoolaiva is, an artificial mount, like that at the adjoining ifland, has been raifed upon it, as high as Some of the Surrounding trees. At day-break, next morning, I made the Signal Tuefcj.a? to weigh ; and as I intended to attempt a paffage to Annamooka, in my way to Tongataboo, by the South Wed, amongd the intervening iflands, I fent the Mader in a boat to found 'before the fhips. But before we could get under fail, A V 0 Y*A G E TO fail, the wind became unfettled; which made it unfafe to attempt a paffage this way, till we were better acquainted with it. I, therefore, lay fad, and made the fignal for the Mader to return ; and afterward fent him and the Mafter of the Difcovery, each in a boat, with inftructions to examine the- channels, as far as they could, allowing themfelves time to get hack to the fhips before the clofe of the day. About noon, a large failing canoe came under our dem, in which was a perfon named Futtafaihe, or Poulaho, or both; who, as the natives then on board told us, was King of Tongataboo, and of all the neighbouring iflands, that we had Seen or heard of. It was a matter of furprize to me, to have a Stranger introduced under this character, which I had fo much reafon to believe really belonged to. another. But they perfifted in their account of the fupreme dignity of this new vifiter; and now, for the fird time, they owned to me, that Feenou was not the King, but only a fubordinate .Chief, though of great power ; as he was often fent from Tongataboo to the other iflands, on warlike expeditions, or to decide differences. It being my intered, as well as my inclination, to pay court to all the great men, without making inquiry into ;jr|mvalidity of their affumed titles, I invited Poulaho on board, as I underdood he was very defirous to come. He could not be an unwelcome gued; for he brought with him, as a prefent to me, two good fat hogs; though not So fat as himfelf. If weight of body could give weight in rank or power, he was certainly the mod eminent man in that refpect, we bad Seen; for, though not very tall, he was very unwieldly, and almoft fhapelefs with corpulence. He feemed to be about forty years of gge, had Straight hair, and his features differed a j THE PACIFIC OCEAN. good deal from thofe of the bulk of his people. I found him to be a fedate fenfible man. He view- jj ed the fhip, and the feveral new objects, with uncommon attention; and afked many pertinent queftions; one of which was, What could induce us to vifit thefe iflands? After he had Satisfied his curiofity in looking at the cattle, and other novelties which he met with upon deck, I defired him to walk down into the cabin. To this, fome of his attendants objected, faying, that, if he were to accept of that invitation, it mud happen, that people would walk over his head ; which could not be permitted. I directed my interpreter Omai, to tell them, that I would obviate their objectioTftf^fey^gi-w ing orders, that no one Should prefume to walk upon that part of the deck whicfc was over the cabin. Whether this expedient would have fatisfied them, was far from app%ring; but the Chief himfelf, lefs fcrupulous, in this refpect, than his attendants, waved all ceremony, and walked down without any dipulation. He now appeared to be as felicitous himfelf, as his people were, to convince us that he was king, and not Feenou, who had paffed with us as fuch. For he foon perceived that we had fome doubts about it; which doubts Omai was not very defirous of removing. The clofed connection had been formed between him and Feenou, in tedimony of which, they had exchanged names; and, therefore, he was not a little chagrined, that another perfon now put in his claim to the honours which his friend had hitherto enjoyed. Poulaho fat down with us to dinner; but he eat little, and drank lefs. When we rofe from the table, he defired me to accompany him afhore. Omai was afked to be of the party; but he was |oo faithfully attached to Feenou, to Shew any at- fention to his competitor; and, therefore, excufed ? hi rn Self, A VOYAGE TO himfelf. I attended the Chief in my own boat, having fird made prefents to him, of fuch articles as, I could obferve, he valued much, and were even beyond his expectation to receive. I was not disappointed in my view of thus fecuring his friend- Ship ; Sor the moment the boat reached the beach, and, * beSore he quitted her, he ordered two more hogs to be brought, and delivered to my people to be conveyed on board. He was then carried out of the boat, by Some of his own people, upon a board reSembling a hand-barrow, and went and Seated himSelf in a Small houSe near the Shore; which feemed to have been erected there for his accommodation. He placed me at his fide; and his attendants, who were not numerous, feated themfelves in a Semi-circle before us, on the outfide of the houfe. Behind the Chief, or rather on one fide, fat an old woman, with a fort of fan in her hand, whofe office it was to prevent his being pef- tered with the flies. The feveral articles which his people had got, by trading on board the Ships, were now displayed before him. He looked over them all, with attention, inquired what they had given in exchange, and feemed pleafed with the bargains they had made. At length, he ordered every thing to be reftored to the respective owners, except a glafs bowl, with which he was So much pleaSed, that he reSeryed it Sor himSelf. The perSons who brought thefe things to him, fird Squatted themSelves down before him, then they depofited their Several purchases, and immediately roSe up and retired. The Same reSpectSul ceremony was obferved in taking them away; and not one of them prefumed to Speak to him danding. I Stayed till Several of his attendants left him, fird paying him obeifance, by bowing the head down to the Sole of his foot, and touching THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 267 touching or tapping the fame, with the upper and ,,77. 31S £ ^ers of Pm 0Jers' J5^> who were not in the circle, came as it feemed, on*-^ purpofe, and paid him this mark of refpect and Ken retired, without Speakmg a word. I was quite charmed with the decorum that was obferved I had, no where, Seen the like, not even amongft more civilized nations. I found the Mafter returned from his expedition, when I sot on board. He informed me, that, as far as h?had proceeded, there was anchorage, and a paffage for the (hips; but that toward the South and So\ith Eaft, he faw a number of fmall ifles, Shoals, and breakers. Judging from this report, that my attempting a paflage that way] would^ , attended with fome rifk, I now dropped all thoughts of it; thinking it better to return toward Anna mooka by the fame route, which we had fo lately failed next morning, if the wind had not bfM too far Southerly, and, at the fame time, yer_|; unsettled. Poulaho, the king, as I (hall now call him, came on board betimes; and brought, as a prefent to me, one of their caps, made or, at leaft, covered with red feathers. Thefe caps were much Sought after by us ■ for we knew they would be highly *ed at Otaheite. But, though very large prices were offered, not one was ever brought for fale | which (hewed, that they were no lefs valuable^ the cftimation of the people here- nor was there a perfon in either fhip, that could make himfelf the proprietor of one except myfelf, Captain Clerke, and Omai Thefe caps, or rather bonnets, are compofed of the tail feathers of the Tropic bird, with the red feathers of the parroquets wrought upon them, or jointly with A VOYAGE TO . them. They are made fo as to tie upon the •forehead without any crown, and have the form of a femicircle, whofe radius is eighteen or twenty inches. The Chief dayed on board till the evening, when he left us; but his brother, whofe name was alfo Futtafaihe, and one or two, or more, of his attendants, continued in the fhip all night, 29. At day-break, the next morning, I weighed with a fine breeze, at Ead North Ead, and dood to the Wedward, with a view to return to Annamooka, by the track we had already experienced. We were followed by feveral failing canoes, in one of which was the king. As foon as he got on board the Refolution, he inquired for his brother, and the others who had remained with us all night. It now appeared, that they had dayed without his leave; for he gave them, in a very few words, fuch a reprimand as brought tears from their eyes; and yet they were men not lefs than thirty years of age. He was, however, foon rHeihciled to ■ their making a longer day; for, on quitting us, he left his brother, and five of his attendants, on board. We had alfo the company of a Chief, jud then arrived from Tongataboo, whofe name was Tooboueitoa. The moment he arrived, he fent his canoe away, and declared, that he and five more, who came with him, would Sleep on board; fo that I had now my cabin filled with vifiters. This, indeed, was fome inconvenience ; but I bore with it more willingly, as they brought plenty of provisions with them, as prefents to me; for which they always had fuitable returns. About THE PACIFIC OCEAN. z6g About one o'clock in the afternoon, the Eaflerly 1777. ■;Yrin$ was Succeeded by a frefh breeze at South ^JO**^, South Ead. Our eourfe, now being South South Wed, or more Southerly, we were obliged to ply to windward, and did but jud fetch the North Side of Footooha, by eight o'clock, wifi$se we fpent the night, making fhort boards. The next morning, we plied up to Lofanga, Friday 30. where, according to thei-f&mation of our friends, there was anchorage. Itf«jfas one o'clock, in the afternoon, before we got ^fundings, unc|g| the lee or North Wed fide, in forty fathoms water, near Jh«flf-a mile from the fhore; but the bank was deep, and the bottom ,fs#ky, and a chain of breakers lay to leeward. All thefe circumdances being againd us, I Stretched away for Kotoo, with the expectation of finding better anchoring ground under that ifland. But fo mucl^time had been fpent in plying up to Lofanga, that it was dark before we reached the other ; and, finding no place to anchor in, the night was Spent as the preceding one. At day-break, on the 31ft, I flood for the c\jm&-> Satur. ji. nel which is between Kotoo, and the reef of rocks that lie to the Weftward of it; but, on drawing near, I found the wind too fcant to lead us through, I, therefore, bore up on the outfide of the reef, and Stretched to the South Weft, till near noon, when, perceiving that we made no progrefs to windward, and being apprehen- five of lofing the iflands, with fo many of the natives on board, I tacked and dood back, intending to wait till fome more favourable opportunity. We did but jud fetch in with Footooha, between which and Kotoo we fpent the night, under reefed topfails and forefail. The wind blew frefh, and by Squalls, with rain; and we were not without apprehenfions of danger. I kept AVOYAGETO I kept the deck till midnight, when I left it to the Mafter, with Such directions as, I thought, would keep the Ships clear of the Shoals and rocks, that lay round us. But, after making a trip to the North, and (landing back again to the South, our Ship, by a fmall Shift of the wind, fetched farther to the windward than was expected. By this means fhe wqs very near running full upon a low fandy ifle, called Pootoo Pootooa, furrounded with breakers. It happened, very fortunately, that the people had juft been ordered upon the deck, to put the Ship about, and the moft of them were at their Stations ; fo that the neceffary movements were not only executed with judgment, but alfo with alertnefs; and this alone Saved us from destruction. The Difcovery being aftern, was out of danger. Such hazardous Situations are the unavoidable companions of the man, who goes upon a voyage of difcovery. This circumftance frightened our paffengers fo much, that they expreffed a Strong defire to get afhore. Accordingly, as Soon as day-light return- • ed, I hoifted out a boat, and ordered the Officer who commanded her, after landing them at Kotoo, to found along the reef that Spits off Srom that ifland, Sor anchorage. For I was Sull as much tired as they could be, with beating about amongft the Surrounding ifles and fhoals, and determined to get to an anchor, Somewhere or other, if pof- fible. While the boat was abfent, we attempted to turn the Ships through the channel, between the fandy ifle and the reef of Kotoo, in expectation of finding a moderate depth of water behind them to anchor in. But, meeting with a tide or current againd us, we were obliged to defid, and anchor in fifty fathoms water, with the fandy ifle bearing Eaft by North, one mile diftant. s We 1 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. a7i We lay here till the 4th. While in this fta- 1777. tion we were, feveral times, vifited by the king, J"1^-^ by Tooboueitoa, and by people from the neigh- ^-"^"
^ jetty. He feemed, at firft, rather abafhed; as fome of us were prefent who had been ufed to fee him act a different part; but he foon recovered himfelf. Some little converfation paffed between thefe two Chiefs, which none of us understood; nor were we Satisfied with Omai's interpretation of it. We were, however, by this time, fufficiently undeceived as to Feenou's rank. Both he and Poulaho went on board with me to dinner; but only the latter fat at table. Feenou, having made his obeifance, in the ufual way, faluting his fovereign's foot with his head and hands, retired out of the cabin *. The king had before told us, that this would happen; and it now appeared, that Feenou could not even eat nor drink in his royal prefence. Sunday 8. At eight o'clock, next morning, we weighed and deered for Tongataboo, having a gentle breeze at North Ead. About fourteen or fifteen failing vef- > /.fM- fels, belonging to the natives, fet out without us ; but every one of them outrun the fhips considerably. Feenou was to have taken his paffage in the * Marks of profound refpeft, very fimilar to thofe paid by natives of the Friendly Iflands to their fovereign, are alfo paid to the principal Chiefs, or Tamoles of the Caroline Iflands, as appears from father Cantova's'account here tranfcribed. " Lorf- " qu'un Tamole donne audience, il paroit affis fur une table " elevee: les peuples s'inclinent devant lui jufqu'a terre ;' & du " plus loin qu'ils arrivent, ils marchent le corps tout courbe, & " la tete prefqu'entre les genoux, jufqu'a ce qu'ils foient au- " pres de fa perfonne; alors ils s'affeyent a plate terre ; &, les " yeux baiffes, ils7 rejoivent fes ordres avec le plus profond " refpect. Quand le Tamole les congedie, ils fe retirent, enfe " courbant de la meme maniere que quand ils font venus, & " ne fe relevant que lorfqu'ils font hors de fa prefence. Ses " paroles font autant d'oracles qu'on revere ; on rend a fes or- " dres une obeiffance aveugle; enfin, on baife les mains & les & pieds, quand on lui demande quelque grace." Lettres Edifiantes & Curieufes, Tom. xv. p. 31a, 3J3- Refo- THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 275 Refolution ; but preferred his own canoe ; and put 1777. two men on board, to conduct us to the bed an- vj,u"^| chorage. We deered South by Wed by compafs. "^ At five in the afternoj|ft we Saw two Small iflands, bearing Wed, about four leagues didant. Our pilots called the one Hoonga Hapaee, and the other Hoonga Tonga. They lie in the latitudes? 200 36'; and ten or elevpbleagues from the Weft point of Annamooka, inEthe direction of South, 460 Weft. According to the account of the iflanders on board, only five men refide upon Hoonga Hapaee ; and Hoonga Tong^iis uninhabited ; but both of them abound with fea-fowl. We continued the fame courfetill two o'clockMond.9; next morfing, when, feeing fome lights ahead, and not knowing whether they were on fhore, or on board the canoes, we hauled the wind, and made a fhort trip, each way, till day-break. We then refumed ouK^Urfe to the South by Weft j and, prefently after, faw feveral fmall iflands before us, and Eooa and Tongataboo beyond them. We had, Mi this time, twenty-five fathoms water, over a bottom of broken coral and fand. The depth gradually decreafed as we drew near the ifles above mentioned, which lie ranged along the North Eaft fide of Tongataboo. By the direction of our pilots we fteered for the middle of it, and for the wideft fpace between the fmall ifles which we were to paSs; having our boats ahead, employed in Sounding. We were, infen- fibly, drawn upon a large flat, upon which lay innumerable coral rocks, of different depths, be- .k^Liihe furface of the water. Notwithflanding all our care and attention to keep the fhip clear of them, we could not prevent he£j|jfprn Striking on one of thefe rocks. Nor did the Difcovery though behind us, efcape any better. Fortunately, neither T 2 of 276 A VOYAGE TO 1777. of the fhips ftuck fall, nor received any damage; June. we could not get back without increafing the dan- ""v"
" where it is a little firmer, are innumerable little openings, from which iffue as many fmall crabs, of two or three different forts, which fwarm upon the Spot, as flies upon a carcafe; but are So nimble, that, on being approached, they diSappear in an in- ftant, and baffle even the natives to catch any of them. At this place is a work of art, which fhews, that thefe people are capable of fome defign, and perfe- verance, when they mean to accomplish any thing. This work begins, on one fide, as a narrow cauSe- way, which, becoming gradually broader, rifes, with a gentle afcent, to the height of ten feet, where it- is five paces broad, and the whole length feventy-four paces. Joined tc^this is a fort of circus, whofe diameter is thirty paces, and not above a foot or two higher than the caufeway that joins it, with fome trees planted in the middle. On the oppofite fide, another caufeway of the fame fort defcends ; but this is not above forty paces long, and is partly in ruin. The whole is built with large coral ftones, with earth on the furface, which is quite overgrown with low trees and fhrubs ; and, from its decaying in feveral places, feems to be of no modern date. Whatever may have been its ufe formerly, it feems to be of none now ; and all that we could learn of it from the natives was, that it belonged to Poulaho, and is called Etchee." On the 16th, in the morning, after vifiting theMond.i feveral works now carrying on afhore, Mr. Gore, and I, took a walk into the country ; in the eourfe of which nothing remarkable appeared, but our having opportunities of feeing the whole procefs of making cloth, which is the principal manufac- Vol. I. U ture A VOYAGE TO ture of thefe iflands, as well as of many others ifi this Ocean. In the narrative of my firft Voyage *, a minute defcription is given of this operation, as performed at Otaheite; but the procefs, here, differing in fome particulars, it may be worth while to give the following account of it: The manufacturers, who are females, take the Slender ftalks or trunks of the paper-mulberry, which they cultivate for that purpofe; and which feldom grows more than fix or feven feet in height, and about four fingers in thicknefs. From thefe they Strip the bark, and fcrape off the outer rind with a mufcle-fhell. The bark is then rolled up to take off the convexity which it had round the Stalk, and macerated in water for fome time (they fay, a night). After this, it is laid acrofs the trunk of a fmall tree fquared, and beaten with- a fquare wooden inftrument, about a foot long, full of coarfe grooves on all fides | but, fometimes, with one that is plain. According to the fize of the bark, a piece is foon produced ; but the operation is often repeated by another hand, or it is folded feveral times, and beat longer, which feems rather intended to clofe than to divide its texture. When this is fufficiently effected, it is Spread out to dry ; the pieces being from four to fix, or more, feet in length, and half as broad. They are then given to another perfon, who joins the pieces, by fmear- ing part of them over with the vifcous juice of a berry, called tooo, which ferves as a glue. Having been thus lengthened, they are laid over a large piece of wood, with a kind of ftamp, made of a fibrous fubftance pretty clofely interwoven, placed beneath. They then take a bit of cloth, and dip it in a juice, expreffed from the bark of a # Hawkefworth's CollecYion of Voyages, Vol. ii. p. 210. THE PACIFIC OCEAN; *$? tree, called kokka, which they rub brifkly upon 1777. the piece that is making. This, at once, leaves^J""^, a dull brown colour, and a dry gloSs upon its Surface ; the Stamp, at the Same time, making a flight irnpreffion, that anfwers no other purpofe that I could See, but to make -the Several pieces, that are glued together, Stick a little more firmly. In this manner they proceed, joining and Staining by degrees, till they produce a piece of cloth, of fuch length and breadth as they want; generally leaving a border, of a foot broad, at the fides, and longer at the ends, unftained. Throughout the whole, if arty parts of the original pieces are too thin, or have holes, which is often the cafe, they glue Spare bits upon them, till they become of an equal thickneSs. When they want to produce a black colour, they mix the Soot procured from an oily nut, called dooedooe, with the juice?o&the kokka, in different quantities, according to the pro- pofed depth of the tinge. They fay, that the black fort of cloth, which is commonly mod glazed, makes a cold drefs, but the other a warm one 1 and, to obtain Strength in both, they are always careful to join the fmall pieces length wife, wbfeli£ makes it impoffible to tear the cloth in any direction but one, On our return from the country, we met with Feenou^ and took him, and another young Chief* on board to dinner. When our fare was fet upon the table, neither of them would eat a bit; Saying, that they were taboo avy. But, after enquiring how the victuals had been dreffed, having found that no avy (water) had been ufed in cooking a pig and fome yams, they both fat down, and made a Veryi hearty meal• and, on being affured that there 1 was no water in the wine, they drank of it alfo. '■ From this we conjectured, that, on fome account U 2, or A VOYAGE TO or another, they were, at this time, forbidden to ufe water; or, which was more probable, they did not like the water we made ufe of, it being taken up out of one of their bathing places. This was not the only time of our meeting with people that were taboo avy; but, for what reafon, we never could tell with any degree of certainty. Next day, the 17th, was fixed upon by Mareewagee, for giving a grand Haiva, or entertainment ; to which we were all invited. For this purpofe a large fpace had been cleared, before the temporary hut of this Chief, near our poll, as an area where the performances were to be exhibited. In the morning, great multitudes of the natives came in from the country, every one carrying a pole, about fix feet long, upon his Shoulder; #!Rf at each end of every pole, a yam was SuSpended. TheSe yams and poles were depofited on each fide of the area, fo as to form two large heaps, decorated with different forts of fmall fifh, and piled up to the greateft advantage. They were Mareewa- gee's prefent to Captain Clerke and me; and it was hard to Say, whether the wood for fuel, or the yams for food, were of moft value to us. As for the fiSh, they might ferve to pleafe the fight, but were very ofrenfive to the fmeli; part of them having been kept two or three days, to be prefented to us on this occafion. Every thing being thus prepared, about eleven o'clock they began to exhibit various dances, which they call mat. The mufic * confifted, at firft, of feventy men as a chorus, who fat down; and amidft them were placed three inftruments, which we called drums, though very unlike them. They are large cylindrical pieces of wood, or trunks of * Mr. Anderfon's defcription of the entertainments of this day being much fuller than Captain Cook's, it has been adopted as on a former occafion. trees, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. trees, from three to four feet long, fome twice as thick as an ordinary fized man, and fome fmaller, hollowed entirely out, but clofe at both ends, and open only by a chink, about three inches broad, running almoft the whole length of the drums ; by which opening, the reft i$f the wood is certainly hollowed, though the operation muft be difficult. This instrument is called naffa; and, with the chink turned toward them, they fit and beat Strongly upon it, with two cylindrical pieces of hard Wood, about a foot long, and as thick as the wrift ; by which means they produce a rude, though loud and powerful found. They vary the Strength and rate of their beating, at different parts of the dance; and alfo change the tones, by beatingfc the middle, or near the end of their drum. The firft dance confifted of four ranks, of twenty-four men each, holding in their hands a little, thin, light, wooden instrument, above two feet long, and, in Shape, not unlike a fmall oblong paddle. With thefe, which are called pagge, they made a great many different motions; fuch as pointing them toward the ground on one fide, at the fame time inclining their bodies that way, from which they were Shifted to the oppofite fide in the fame manner; then palling them quickly from one hand to the other, and twirling them about very dextroufly; with a variety of other manoeuvres, all which were accompanied by corresponding attitudes of the body. Their motfcns were, at firft, flow, but quickened as the drums beat fader; and they recited fentences, in a mufical tone, the whole time, which were anfwered by the chorus; but at the end of a fhort fpace they all joined, and finifhed with a fhout. After ceafing about two or three minutes, they began as before, and continued, with fhort intervals, A VOYAGE TO vals, above a quarter of an hour; whj5© the rear rank dividing, Shifted themfelves very Slowly round each end, and, meeting in theiJront, formed the fird rank; the whole number p^tinuing to recite the Sentences as beSore. The other ranks did the fame fucceffively, till that which, at fird, was the front, became the rear; and the evolution continued, in the Same manner, till the lad rank regained its firft fituation. They then began a much quicker dance (though flow at fird), and Sung for about ten minutes, when the whole body divided into two parts, retreated a little, and then approached, forming a fort of cir#Iar figure, which finifhed the dance j the drums being removed, and the chorus going off the field at the fame time. The fecond dance had only two drums, with forty men for a chorus; and the dancers, or rather actors, confided of two ranks, the foremod having feventeen, and thppther fifteen perfons. Feenou . was at their head, or in the middle of the front rank, which is the principal place in thefe caSes. They danced and recited Sentences, with Some very Short intervals, for abof%i|alf an hour, fometimes quickly, Sometimes more Slowly, but with Such a degree of exacta^i, as if all the motions were made by one man, which did them great credit Near the clofe, the back rank divided, came round, and took the place of the front, which again re- fumed its fituation, as in the fird dance; and when they finifhed, the drums and chorus, as before, went off. Three drums (which, at lead, took two, and fometimes three men to carry them) were now brought in ; and Seventy men Sat down as a chorus to the third dance. This confided of two ranks, of fixteen perfons each, with young Toobou at their head, who was richly ornamented with a i fort THE PACIFIC OCEAN. fort of garment covered with red feathers. Thefe danced, fung, and twirled the pagge, as before ; but, in general, much quicker, and performed fo well, that they had the conftant applaufes of the Spectators. A motion that met with particular approbation, was one in which they held the face afide, as if afhamed, and the pagge before it. The back rank clofed before the front one, and that again re- fumed its place, as in the two former dances ; but then they began again, formed a triple row, divided, retreated to each end of the area, and left the greated part of the ground clear. At that inftant, two men entered very hadily, and exercifed the clubs which they ufe in battle. They did this, by fird twirling them in their hands, and making circular drokes before them with great force and quicknefs; but fo Skilfully managed, that, though Standing quite clofe, they never interfered. They Shifted their clubs from hand to hand, with great dexterity; and, after continuing a little time, kneeled, and made different motions, tofiing the clubs up in the air, which they caught as they fell; and then went off as hadily as they entered. Their heads were covered with pieces of white cloth, tied at the crown (almod like a nightcap) with a wreath of foliage.round the forehead; but they had only very fmall pieces of white cloth tied about their waids ; probably, that they might be cool, and free from every incumbrance or weight. A perfon with a fpear, dreffed like the former, then came in, and in the fame hady manner; looking about eagerly, as if in fearch of fomebody to throw it at. He then ran hadily to one fide of the crowd in the front, and put himfelf in a threatening attitude, as if he meant to Strike with his Spear at one of them, bending the knee a little, and trembling, as it were with rage. He continued in this man- A VOYAGE TO ner only a few Seconds, when he moved to the other fide, and having Stood in the Same pofture there, for the fame Short time, retreated from the ground, as faft as when he made his appearance. The dancers, who had divided into two parties, kept repeating fomething Slowly all this while; and now advanced, and joined again, ending with uni- verSal applaufe. It Should Seem, that this dance was confidered as one of their capital perSormances, if we might judge from fome of the principal people being engaged in it. For one of the drums was beat by Futtafaihe, the brother of Poulaho, another by Feenou, and the third, which did not belong to the chorus, by Mareewagee himfelf, at the entrance of his hut. The laft dance had forty men, and two drums, as a chorus. It confifted of fixty men, who had not danced before, difpofed in three rows, having twenty-four in front. But, before they began, we were entertained with a pretty long preliminary harangue, in which the whole body made refponfes to a fingle perfon who fpoke. They recited Sentences (perhaps verfes) alternately with the chorus, and made many motions with the pagge, in a very briSk mode, which were all applauded with mareeai! and fyfogge ! words expreffing two different degrees of praife. They divided into two bodies, with their backs to each other; formed again, Shifted their ranks as in the. other dances; divided and retreated, making room for two champions, who exercifed their clubs as before; and after them two others: the dancers, all the time, reciting (lowly in turn with the chorus ; after which they advanced, and finifhed. Thefe dances, if they can properly be called fo, lafted from eleven till near three o'clock; and though they were, doubdefs, intended, particularly, either THE PACIFIC OCEAN. either in honour of us, or to fhew a Specimen cf their dexterity, vaft numbers of their own people v_ attended as Spectators. Their numbers could not be computed exactly, on account of thetnequality of the ground ; but, by reckoning the inner circle, and the number in depth, which was between twenty and thirty in many places, we fuppofed that there muft be near four thoufand. At the fame time, there were round the trading place at the tent, and Straggling about, at leaft as many more; and fome of us computed, that, at this time, there were not lefs than ten or twelve thoufand people, in our neighbourhood ; that is, within the compafs of a quarter of a mile; drawn together, for the moft part, by mere curiofity. It is with regret I mention, that we could not understand what was fpoken, while we were able to See what was acted, in theSe amuSements, Tin's, doubtleSs, would have afforded us much information, as to the genius and cuftoms of thefe people. It was obfervable, that, though the'Spectators always approved of the various motions, when well made, a great fhare of the pleafure they received Seemed to arife Srom the Sentimental part, or what the perSormers delivered in their Speeches. However, the mere acting part, independently of the Sentences repeated, was well worth our notice, both witfef reSpect to the extenfive plan on which it was executed, and- to, the various motions, as well as the exact unity, with which they were performed. But neither pencil nor pen can defcribe the numerous actions and motions, the Singularity of which was not greater, than was the eafe and gracefulnefs with which they were performed. At A VOYAGE TO At night, we were entertained with the bomai, or night dances, on a Space before Feenou's temporary habitation. They lafted about three hours; in which time we had about twelve of them performed, much after the fame manner as thofe at Hapaee. But, in two, that were performed by women, a number of men came and formed a circle within their's. And, in another, confiding of twenty-four men, there were a number of motions with the hands, that we had not feen before, and were highly applauded. The mufic was, alfo, once changed, in the eourfe of the night; and in one of the dances, Feenou appeared at the head of fifty men who had performed at Hapaee, and he was well dreded with linen, a large piece of gauze, and fome little pictures hung round his neck. But it was evident, after the diverfions were clofed, that we had put thefe poor people, or rather that they had put themfelves, to much inconvenience. For being drawn together on this uninhabited part of their ifland, numbers of them were obliged to lie down and Sleep under the buShes, by the fide of a tree, or of a canoe; nay many either lay down in the open air, which they are not fond of, or walked about all the night. The whole of this entertainment was conducted with far better order, than could have been expected in fo large an affembly. Amongd Such a multitude, there mud be a number of ill-diSpoSed people ; and we, hourly, experienced it. All our care and attention did not prevent their plundering us, in every quarter; and that, in the mod daring and in- folent manner. There was hardly any thing that they did not attempt to deal; and yet, as the crowd was THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 299 was always fo great, I would not allow the Sentries 1777. to fire, left the innocent fhould Suffer for the guilty. ^J^l. They once, at noon day, ventured to aim at tak- vr""*"" ing an anchor from off the Difcovery's bows; and they would certainly have Succeeded, if the flook had not hooked one of the chain plates in lowering down the Ship's fide, from which they could not difengage it by hand ; and tackles were things they were unacquainted with. The only act of violence they were guilty of, was the breaking the Shoulder bone of one of our goats, fo that fhe died foon after. This lofs fell upon themfelves, as fhe was one of thofe that 1 intended to leave upon the ifland; but of this, the perfon who did it, was ignorant. Early in the morning of the 18th, an incident Wedn. i8» happened, that flrongly marked one of their cuftoms. A man got out of a canoe into the quarter gallery of the Refolution, and dole from thence a pewter bafon. He was difcovered, purfued, and brought along-fide the ffip. On this occafi$n^ three old women, who were in the canoe, made loud lamentations over the prifoner, beating tj|ej|i breafts and faces in a mod violent manner, with the infide of their fids ; and all this jwas 4<m& without Shedding a tear. This mode of exprefling grief is what occafions the mark which almod all this people bear on the face, over the cheek bones. The repeated blows which they inflict upon this part, abrade the fkin, and make even the blood flow out in a confiderable quantity ; and when the wounds are recent, they look as if-^ hollow circle had been feamtin. On many occafions, they actually cut this part of the face with an indrument; in the fame manner as the people of Otaheite cut their heads. This day, I bellowed on Mareewagee fome presents, in return for thofe we had received from him the day before; and as the entertainments which A VOYAGE TO which he had then exhibited for our amufement, _, called upon us to make Some exhibition in our way, I ordered the party of marines to go through their exercife, on the Spot where his dances had been performed; and, in the evening, played off fome fireworks at the fame place. Poulaho, with all the principal Chiefs, and a great number of people, of all denominations, were prefent. The platoon firing, which was executed tolerably well, feemed to give them pleafure; but they were lod in afto- nifhment when they beheld our water rockets. They paid but little attention to the fife and drum, or French horns, that played during the intervals. The king fat behind every body, becaufe no one is allowed to fit behind him; and, that his view might not be obdructed, nobody fat immediately before him ; but a lane, as it were, was made by the people from him, quite down to the fpace al* lotted for the fireworks. In expectation of this evening fhew, the circle of natives about our tent being pretty large, they engaged, the greated part of the afternoon, in boxing and wredling; the fird of which exercifes they call fangatooa and the fecond foohoo. When any of them choofes to wreftle, he gets up from one fide of the ring, and erodes the ground in a fort of meafured pace, clapping Smartly on the elbow joint of one arm, which is bent, and produces a hollow found ; that is reckoned the challenge. If no perfon comes out from the oppofite fide to engage him, he returns, in the fame manner, and fits down ; but fometimes Stands clapping in the midft of the ground, to provoke fome one to come our. If an opponent appear, they come together with marks of the greateft good-nature, generally finding, and taking time to adjuft the piece of cloth which is faftened round the waift. They then 2 lay THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 301 lay hold of each other by this girdle, with a hand ,,,,. on each fide ; and he who fucceeds in drawing his J""6- antagonist to him, immediately tries to lift him' V~~~J upon his breaft, and throw him upon£*feis back; and if he be able to turn round with him two or three times, in that pofition, before he throws him, his dexterity never fails of procuring plaudits from the Spectators. If they be more equally matched, they clofe foon, and endeavour to throw each other by entwining their legs, or lifting each other Srom the ground; in which Struggles they fhew a prodigious exertion of Strength, every muScle, as it were, being ready to burft with Straining. When one is thrown, he immediately quits the field, but the victor fits down for a few feconds, then gets up, and goes to the fide he came from, who proclaim the victory aloud, in a fentence delivered (lowly, and in a mufical cadence. After fitting a fhort fpace, he rifes again and challenges; when fometimes feveral antagonists make their appearance g but he has the privilege of choofing which of them he pleafes to wreftle with ; and has, likewife, the preference of challenging again, if he fhould throw his adverfary, until he himfelf be vanquifhed; and then the oppofite fide fing the fong of victory in favour of their champion. It alfo often happens, that five or fix rife from each fide, and challenge together ; in which cafe, it is common to fee three or four couple engaged on the field at once. But it is aftonifhing to fee what temper ihey preferve in this exercife ; for we obferved no inftances of their leaving the %©t, with the leaft difpleafure in their countenances. When they find, that they are So equally matched as not to be likely to throw each other, they leave off by mutual con- Sent. And if the fall of one is not fair, or if it does not appear very clearly who has had the advantage, both fides fing the victory, and then they j A VOYAGE TO they engage again. But no perfon, who has been vanquished, can engage with his conqueror a fecond time. The boxers advance fide-ways, changing the fide at every pace, with one arm Stretched fully out before, the other behind ; and holding a piece of cord in one hand, which they wrap firmly about it, when they find an antagonist, or elSe have done So before they enter. This, I imagine, they do, to prevent a dislocation of the hand or fingecs. Their blows are directed chiefly to the head; but Sometimes to the fides; and are dealt out with great activity. They Shift fides, and box equally well with both hands. But one of their favourite and moft dextrous blows, is, to turn round on their heel, juft as they have Struck their antagonift, and to give him another very fmart one with the other hand backward. The boxing matches Seldom laft long; and the parties either leave off together, or one acknowledges his being beat. But they never fing the fong of victory in thefe cafes, unlefs one ftrikes his adverfary to the ground; which Shews, that, of the two, wredling is their mod approved diver- fion. Not only boys engage, in both the exercifes, but frequently little girls box very obdinately for a fhort time. In all which cafes, it doth not appear, that they ever confider it as the Smalleft diSgrace to be vanquished; and the perfon overcome fits down, with as much indifference, as if he had never entered the lids. Some of our people ventured to contend with them in both exercifes, but were always worded; except-in a few indances, where it appeared, that the fear they were in of offending us, contributed more to the victory, than the fuperiority of the perfon they engaged. The THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 303 The cattle, which we had brought, and which 1777. were all on Shore, however carefully guarded, 1 was June* Senfible, run no fmall rifle, when I confidered the /^" thieviSh difpofition of majhy of the natives, and their dexterity in appropriating to themfelves by dealth, what they faw no profpect of obtaining by fair means. For this reafon I thought it prudent to declare my intention of leaving behind me fome of our animals ; and even to make a didribution of them previouftjfcgo my departure. With this view, in the evening of the 19th, iThurf. 1 affembled all the Chiefs before, ©jof houfe, and my intended prefents to them were marked out. To Poulaho, the king, I gave a young Englifh bull and cow ; to Mareewagee, a Cape ram, and i^ ewes ; and to Feenou, a horfe and a mare. As my defign, to make Such a didribution, had been made known the day before, mod of the people in the neighbourhood were then prefent, Iindructed Omai to tell them, that there were no fuch animals within many months fail of their ifland; that we had brought them, for their ufe, from that immenfe diftance, at a vad trouble and expence; .f$£f^ therefore, they mud be careful not to kill any of them till they had multiplied to a numerous race; and, laftly, that they and the|f?rchildren ought to remember, that they had received them from the men of Britane. He alfo explained to them their feveral ufes, and what elfe was neceffary for them to know, or rather as far as he knew ; for Omai was not very well verfed in fuch things himfelf. As I intended that the above prefents fhould remain with the other cattle, till we were ready to fail, I defired each of the Chiefs to fend a man or two to look after their refpective animals, along with my people, in order that they might be better acquainted with them, and with the manner of treating them. The king and Feenou 3°4 A VOYAGE TO Mttj Feenou did fo; but neither Mareewagee, nor any June, other perSon for him, took the lead notice of v " the fheep afterward ; nor did old Toobou attend at this meeting, though he was invited, and was in the neighbourhood. I had meant to give him the goats, viz. a ram and two ewes I which, as he was So indifferent about them, I added to the king's fhare. Friday 20. It Soon appeared, that fome were diffatisfied with this allotment of our animals; for, early next morning, one of our kids, and two turkey-cocks, were miffing. I could not be fo fimple as to fup- pofe, that this was merely an accidental lofs ; and I was determined to have them again. The firft Step I took was to feize on three canoes that happened to be along-fide the Ships. I then went afhore, and, having found the king, his brother, Feenou, and fome other Chiefs, in the houfe that we occupied, I immediately put a guard over them, and gave them to underftand, that they muft remain under reftraint, till not only the kid and the turkeys, but the other things, that had been Stolen from us, at different times, were reftored. They concealed, as well as they could, their feel- ings, on finding themfelves prifoners; and, having allured me, that every thing fhould be reftored, as I defired, fat down to drink their kava, feemingly much at their cafe. It was not long before an axe, and an iron wedge, were brought to me. In the mean time, fome armed natives began to gather behind the houfe; but, on a part of our guard marching againd them, they difperfed ; and I advifed the Chiefs to give orders, that no more fhould appear. Such orders were accordingly given by them, and they were obeyed. On afking them to go aboard with me to dinner, they readily confented. But fome having afterward objected to the king's going, he inftantly rofe up, and declared he 'iiptfi would THE PACIFIC OCEAN. would be the fird man. Accordingly we came on board. I kept them there tift gear four o'clock, when I conducted them afhore; and, foon after, the kid, and one of the turkey-cocks, were brought back. The other, they faid, fhould be redored the next morning. 1 believed this would happen, and releafed both them and the canoes. After the Chiefs had left us, I walked out with Omai, to obferve how the people about us fared ; for this wfSj.trie time of their meals. I found fjlj^kd in general, they were at fhort commons. Nor is this to be wondered at, fince mod of the yams, and other provifions which they broughtjwith them, were fold to us ; and they never thought of returning to their own habitations, whilevttiey could find any Sort of Subfidence in our neighbourhood. Our dation was upon an uncultivated point of land ; So that there were none of the iflanders, who, properly, refided within half a mile of us. But even at this diftance, the multitude of Strangers being fo great, one might have expected, that every houSe would have been. f|j§ch crowded. It was quite otherwiSe. The Samilies refiding tfe,fj were as much left to tj|eirifelves, as if there had not been a Supernumerary vifiter near Jlem. All the Strangers lived in little temporary Sheds, or tinder trees and bufhes; and the cocoa-trees were dripped of their branches, to erect habitations for the Chiefs. In this walk we met with about half a dozen women, in one place, at flipper. Two of the company, I obferved, being fed by the Others, on our afking the reafon, they Said taboo mattee. On farther inquiry we found, that one of them had, two months before, wafhed the dead corpfe of a Chief; and that, on this account, fhe was not to handle any food for five months,., The other had Vol, 1. X performs, d A VOYAGE TO performed the fame office to the corpfe of another perfon of inferior rank, and was now under the fame redriction ; but not for fo long a time. At another place, hard by, we faw another woman fed; and we learnt, that fhe had affifled in wafhing the corpfe of the above-mentioned Chief. Early the next morning, the king came on board, to invite me to an entertainment, which he propofed to give the fame day. He had already been under the barber's hands; his head being all befmeared with red pigment, in order to redden his hair, which was naturally of a dark brown colour. After breakfad, I attended him to the fhore \ and we found his people very bufy, in two places, in the front of our area, fixing, in an upright and fquare pofition, thus [° °], four very long pods, near two feet from each other. The fpace between the pods was afterward filled up with yams; and as they went on filling it, they fattened pieces of dicks acrofs, from pod to pod, at the didance of about every four feet; to prevent the pofts from feparating, by the weight of the inclofed yams, and alfo to get up by. When the yams had reached the top of the fird pods, they fadened others to them, and fo continued till each pile was the height of thirty feet, or upward. On the top of one, they placed two baked hogs ; and on the top of the other, a living one; and another they tied by the legs, half-way up. It was matter of curiofity to obferve, with what facility and dif- patch thefe two piles were raifed. Had our fea- men been ordered to execute fuch a work, they would have Sworn that it could not be performed without carpenters; and the carpenters would have called to their aid a dozen different forts of tools, and have expended, at lead, a hundred weight of nails; and, after all, it would have employed them THE PACIFIC OCEAN: as many days, as it diff fjbefe people hours. But feamen, like mod other amphibious animals, are. always the mod helplefs on land. After they had completed thefe two piles, they made feveral other heaps of yams and bread-fruit on each fide of the area; to which were added a turtle, and a large quantity of excetfetit fifh. All this, with a piece of cloth, a mat, and fome red feathers, was the king's ptfijgnt to me * and he feemed to picque himfelf on exceeding, as he really did, Feenou's liberality, which I experienced at Hapaee, About one o'clock they began the mai, or dances; the fird of which was almod a copy of the firft that was exhibited at Mareewagee's entertainment. The fecond was conducted by Captain Furneaux's Toobou, who, as we mentioned, had alfo danced there ; and in this, four or five women were introduced, who went through the feveral parts with as much exactnefs as the men. Toward the end, the performers divided to leave room for two cham- . pions, who exercifed their clubs, as defcribed on a former occafion. And, in the third dance, which was the laft now prefented, two more men, with their clubs, difplayed their dexterity. The dances were fucceeded by wreftling and boxing ; and one man entered the lifts with a fort of club, made from the Hem of a cocoa-leaf, which is firm and heavy; but could find no antagonist to engage him at fo rough a fport. At night we had the bomai repeated ; in which Poulaho himfelf danced, dreffed in Englifh manufacture. But neither thefe, nor the dances in the day-time, were fo confiderable, nor carried on with fo much fpirit, as Feenou's or Mareewagee's; and, therefore, there is lefs occafion to be more particular in our description of them. In order to be prefent the whole time, I dined afhore. The king Sat down with us; but he X 2 neither A VOYAGE TO neither eat nor drank. I found that this was owing to the prefence of a female, whom at his defire, I had admitted to the dining party ; and who, as we afterward understood, had fuperior rank to himfelf. As foon as this great perfonage had dined, fhe ftepped up to the king, who put his hands to her feet; and then She retired. He immediately dipped his fingers into a glafs of wine, and then received the obeifance of all her followers. This was the fingle inftance we ever obferved of his paying this mark of reverence to any perfon. At the king's defire, I ordered fome fireworks to be played off in the evening; but, unfortunately, being damaged, this exhibition did not anfwer expectation. CHAP. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. CHAP. VIII. Some of the Officers plundered by the Native^-f Afifhing Party.—A Vifit to Poulaho.—A Fiatoo- ka defcrihed.—Obfervations on the Country Entertainment at Poulaho's Houfe.-—His Mourning Ceremony.—Of the Kava Plant, and the Man- . ner of preparing the Liquor.—Account of Onevy, a little Jfiand.—One of the Natives wounded by a SentinAsr-Meffrs. King and Anderfon vifit the King's Brother.—Their Entertainment.——Another Mourning Ceremony. — Manner of pa/fing the Night. — Remarks on the Country they pa/fed through. — Preparations made for failing. — An Eclipfe of the Sun, imperfetfly obferved.—Mr. Anderfon's Account of the Ifland, and its Productions. AS no more entertainments were to be expect- 1777- ed, on either fide, and the Guftofity of thet ^UMe' populace was, by this time, pretty well fatisfied; Sunday2j on the day after Poulaho's haiva, moft of them {Ls|j$ us. We ftill, however, had thieves about us; and, encouraged by the negligence of our own people, we had continual inftances of their depredations ,. Some of the officers, belonging to both fhips, who had made* an excurfion into the interior parts of the ifland, without my leave, and, indeed, without my knowledge, returned this evening, after an abfence of two days. They had taken with them 3io A VOYAGE TO 177-7- them their mufkets, with the neceffary ammunitr- ^"°^_j on, and feveral fmall articles of the favourite commodities ; all which the natives had the dexterity to Steal from them, in the eourfe of their expedition. This affair was likely to be attended with inconvenient confequences. For, our plundered travellers, upon their return, without confulting me, employed Omai to complain to the king of the treatment they had met with. He, not knowing what Step I Should take, and, from what had already happened, fearing left I might lay him again Mond. 23. under reftraint, went off early the next morning. H&example was followed by Feenou ; fo that we had not a Chief, of any authority, remaining in our neighbourhood. I was very much difpleafed at this, and reprimanded Omai for having prefum- ed to meddle. This reprimand put him upon, his metal to bring his friend Feenou back; and. he fucceeded in the negociation ; having this powerful argument to urge, that he might depend upon my ufing Ho violent meafures to oblige the natives to reftore what had been taken from the gentlemen. Feenou, trusting to this declaration, returned toward the evening ; and, encouraged by his reception, Poulaho favoured us with his company the day after. Tuefd. 24. Both thefe Chiefs, upon this occafion, very juftly obferved to me, that, if any of my people, at any. time, wanted to go into the country, they ought to be acquainted with it; in which cafe they would fend proper people along with them« and then<tney would be anfwerable for their Safety. And I am convinced, from experience, that, by taking this very reafonable precaution, a man and his property may be as fafe among thefe iflanders, as in other parts of the more civilized world. Though I gave myfelf no trouble about the recovery of the things Stolen THE PACIFIC OCEAN/ 3i« ftolen upon this occafion, moft of them, through 1777. Feenou's interpofition, were recovered ; except one Juiie- muSket, and a few other articles of inferior value. ~V~'~"J By this time alfo, we had recovered the turkey- cock, and moft ofpe tools, and other matters, that had been ftolen from our workmen. On the 25th, two boats, which I had fent to look Wedn. 25; for a channel, by which we might, moft commo- dioufly, get to fea, returned. The Matters, who commanded them, reported, that the channel to the North, by which we came in, was highly dangerous, being full of coral rocks from one Side to the other; but that, to the Eaftward, there was a very good channel; which, however, was very much contracted, in one place, by the fmall iflands; fo that a leading wind would be requifite to get through it; that is, a Wefterly wind, which, we had found, did not often blow here. We had now recruited the fhips with wood and water; we had finifhed the repairs of our fails ; and had little more to expect from the inhabitants, of the produce of their ifland. However, -as an eclipfe of the fun was to happen upon the 5th of the next month, I .Solved to defer failing till that time had elapfed, in order to have a chance of observing it. Having, therefore, Some days of leifure before me, a party of us, accompanied by Poulaho, fet out, early next morning, in a boat, Sor Mooa, Thurf. 26. the village where he and the other great men uSually refide. As we rowed up the inlet, we met with fourteen canoes fifhing in company -, in one of which was Poulaho's fon. In each canoe was a triangular net, extended between two poles; at the lower end of which was a cod to receive and fecure the fifh. They had already caught Some fine mullets; and they put about a dozen into our A VOYAGE TO our boat. I defired to fee their method of fifhing ; which they readily complied with. A fhoal of fifh "was fuppofed to be upon one of the banks, which they inftantly incloSed in a long net like a Seine, or Set-net. This the fifhers, one getting into the water out of each boat, furrounded with the triangular nets in their hands; with which they feoop- ed the fifh out of the feine, or caught them as they attempted to leap over it. They Shewed us the whole proceSs of this operation (which feemed to be a Sure one), by throwing in Some of the fifh they had already caught; for, at this time, there happened to be none upon the bank, that was in- clofed. Leaving the prince and his filhing party, we proceeded to the bottom of the bay, and landed where we had done before, on our fruitlefs errand to See Mareewagee. As Soon as we got on Shore, the king defired Omai to tell me, that I need be under no apprehenfions about the boat, or any thing in her, for not a fingle article would be touched by any one; and we afterward found this to be the cafe. We were immediately conducted to one of Poulaho's houSes not Sar off, and near the public one, or malaee, in which we had been, when we firft vifited Mooa, This, though pretty large, feemed to be his private habitation, and was fituated within a plantation. The king took his feat at one end of the houfe, and the people, who came to vifit him, fat down, as they arrived, in a femi- circle at the other end. The firft thing done, was to prepare a bowl of kava, and to order fome yams to be baked for us. While thefe were getting ready, fome of us, accompanied by a few of the king's attendants, and Omai as our interpreter, walked out to take a view of zfiatooka, or burying- place, which we had obferved to be almoft clofe by the houfe, and was much more extenfive, and feem- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ingly of more confequence, than any we had feen at the other iflands. We were told, that it belong- ed to the king. It confifted of three pretty large houfes, fituated upon a rifing ground, or rather jud by the brink of it, with a fmall one, at fome didance, all ranged longitudinally. The middle houfe of the three fird, was, by much, the larged, and placed in a fquare, twenty-four paces by twenty-eight, raifed about three feet. The other houfes were placed on little mounts, raifed artificially to the fame height. The floors of thefe houfes, as alfo the tops of the mounts round them, were covered with loofe, fine pebbles, and the whole was inclofed by large flat dones * of hard coral rock, properly hewn, placed on their edges; bifc'of which dones meafured twelve feet in fcflgth, two in breadth, and above one in thicknefs. One of the houfes, contrary to what we had feen before, was open on one fide; and withinHt'were two rude, wooden butts of men ; one near the entrance, and the other farther in. On inquiring of the natives, who had followed us to the ground, but durd not enter here, What thefe images were intended for ; they made us as fenfible as v/e could with, that they were merely memorials of fome Chiefs who had been buried there, and not the reprefentations of any deity. Such monuments, it fhould feem, are feldom raifed; for thefe had, probably, been erected feveral ages ago. We were told, that the dead had been buried in each of thefe houfes; but no marks of this.appeared. In one of them, was the carved head of an Otaheite canoe, which had been driven a fhore on their coad, and depofited here. At the foot of the rifing ground, was a large area, or grats- * The burying-piaces of the Chiefs at the Caroline Iflands, are alfo inclofed in this manner. See Letlres Ediftanfes & Cu- rieufes, Tom. xv. p. 509. Plot, A VOYAGE TO plot, with different trees planted about it; amongft which were feveral of thofe called etoa, very J large. Thefe, as they refemble the cyprefs, had a fine effect in fuch a place. There was, alfo, a row of low palms near one of the houfes, and behind it a ditch, in which lay a great number of old bafkets. After dinner, or rather after we had refrefhed ourfelves with fome proviiions which we had brought with us from our fhip, we made an excurfion into the country, taking a pretty large circuit, attended by one of the king's miniders. Our train was not great, as he would not differ the rabble to follow us. He alfo obliged all thofe whom we met upon our progrefs, to fit down, till we had paffed ; which is a mark of refpect due only to their Sovereigns. We found by far the greated part of the country cultivated, and planted with various forts of productions; and mod of theSe plantations were fenced round. Some fpots, where plantations had been formerly, now produced nothing, lying fallow; and there were places that had never been touched, but lay in a date of nature; and, yet, even thefe were ufeful, in affording them timber, as they were generally covered with trees. We met with feveral large uninhabited houfes, which, we were told, belonged to the king. There were many public and well-beaten roads, and abundance of foot-paths leading to every part of the ifland. The roads being good, and the country level, travelling was very eafy. It is remarkable, that when we were on the mod elevated parts, at lead a hundred Seet above the level of the fea, we often met with the fame coral rock, which is found at the fhore, projecting above the Surface, and perforated and cut into all thofe inequalities which are ufually feen in rocks that lie within the wafh of thfc tide. And THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 315 ,And yet thefe very fpots, with hardly any foil up- 1777. on them, were covered with luxuriant vegetation. J"™^, We were conducted to feveral little pools, and to*~ " fome Springs of water; but, in general, they were either dinking or brackifh, though recommended to us by the natives as excellent. The former were, modly, inland, and the latter near the Shore of the bay, and below high-water mark ; So that tolerable water could be taken up from them, on- ' ^'.twhen the tide was out. When we returned from our walk, which was " 'fcot-.tUl the dufk of the evening, our Supper was ready. It confided of a baked hog, fome fifh, and yams, all excellently well cooked, after the method of thefe iflands. As there was nothing to amufe ns after fupper, we followed the cuftom of the country, and lay down to Sleep, our beds being mats fpread upon the floor, and cloth to cover us. The king, who had made himfelf very happy with fome wine and brandy which we had brought, Slept in the fame houfe, as well as Several others of the natives. Long beSore day-break, he and they all roSe, and Sat converfing by moon-light. The conversation, as might well be gueffed, turned wholly upon us; the king entertaining his company *$iflran account of what he had feen, or remarked. As Soon as it was day, they diSperfed, Friday 27. Some one way, and Some another; but it was not long before they all returned, and, with them, Several more of their countrymen. They now began to prepare a bowl of kava ; and, leaving them So employed, 1 went to pay a vifit to Toobou, Captain Furneaux's friend, who had a houfe hard by, which, for fize and neatnefs, was exceeded by few in the place. As I had left the others, So I found here a company preparing a morning draught, Thiisgghief made a prefent to me of a living hog, a baked one, a quantity of yams. 316 AVOYAGETO 1777. yams, and a large piece of cloth. When I re- ,^Ju"e- turned to the king, I found him, and his circle of attendants, drinking the fecond bowl of kava. That being emptied, he told Omai, that he was going prefently to perform a mourning ceremony, called Tooge, on account of a fon who had been dead fome time ; and he defired us to accompany him. We were glad of the opportunity, expecting to fee fomewhat new or curious. The fird thing the Chief did, was to dep out of the houfe, attended by two old women, and put on a new fuit of clothes, or rather a new piece of cloth, and, over it, an old ragget mar, that might have ferved his great grandfather, on fome fuch occafion. His fervants, or thofe who attended him, were all dreffed in the Same manner, excepting that none of their mats could vie, in antiquity, with that of their mader. Thus equipped, we marched off, preceded by about eight or ten perfons, all in the above habits of ceremony, each of them, befides, having a fmall green bough about his neck. Poulaho held his bough in his hand, till we drew near the place of rendezvous, when he alfo put it about his neck. We now entered a Small inclofure, in which was a neat houfe, and "we found one man fitting before it. As the company entered, they pulled off the green branches from round their necks, and threw them away. The king having fird feated himfelf, the others fat down beSore him, in the ufual manner. The circle increafed, by others dropping in, to the number of a hundred or upward, moflly old men, all dreffed as above defcribed. The company being completely affembled, a large root of kava, brought by one of the king's fervants, was produced, and a bowl which contained four or five gallons. Several perfons now began to chew the root, and this bowl was THE PACIFIC OCEAN. was made brimfull of liquor. While it was preparing, others were employed in making drinking ■ cups of plantain leaves. The fird cup that was"" filled, was prefented to the king, and he ordered it to be given to another perfon. The Second was alSo brought to him, which he drank, and the third was offered to me. Afterward, as each cup was filled, the man who filled it, afked, who was to have it ? Another then named the perfon ; and to him it was carried. As the bowl grew low, the man who didributed the liquor feemed rather at a lofs to whom cups of it Should be next Sent, and frequently confulted thofe who fat near him. This mode of didribution continued, while any liquor remained; and though not half the company had a Share, yet no one Seemed diffatisfied. About half a dozen cups ferved for all; and each, as it was emptied, was thrown down upon the ground, where the fervants picked it up, and carried it to be filled again. During the whole time, the Chief and his circle fat, as was ufually the cafe, with a great deal of gravity, hardly fpeaking a word to each other. We had long waited in expectation, each moment of feeing the mourning ceremony begin ; when, foon after the kava was drank out, to our great furprize and difappointment, they all rofe up and difperfed; and Poulaho told us, he was now ready to attend us to the Ships. If this was a mourning ceremony, it was a drange one. Perhaps, it was the fecond, third, or fourth mourning; or, which was not very uncommon, Omai might have mifunderdood what Poulaho faid to him. For, excepting the change of drefs, and the putting the green bough round their necks, nothing feemed to have paffed at this meeting, but what we faw them practife, too frequently, every day. " We A VOYAGE TO " * We had feen the drinking of kava fome- times, at the other ifland ; but, by no means, fo frequently as here, where it feems to be the only forenoon employment of the principal people. The kava is a fpecies of pepper, which they cultivate for this purpofe, and edeem it a valuable article, taking great care to defend the young plants from any injury; and it is commonly planted about their houfes. It feldom grows to more than a man's height; though I have feen fome plants almod dou- Jjleft-jthat. It branches considerably, with large heart-fhaped leaves, and jointed flalks. The root is the only part that is ufed at the Friendly Iflands, which, being dug up, is given to the fervants that attend, who, breaking it in pieces, fcrape the dirt off with a fhell^^bit of dick; and then each begins and chews his portion, which he fpits into a piece of plantain leaf. The perfon, who is to prepare the liquor, collects all thefe mouthfuls, and puts them jn.tp a large wooden difh or bowl, adding as much water as will make it of a proper drength. It is, then, well mixed up with the hands; and fome loofe duff, of which mats are made, is thrown upon the furface, which intercepts the fibrous part, and is wrung hard, to get as much liquid out from it, as is poflible. The manner of diftribut- ing it need not be* repeated. The quantity which is put into each cup, is commonly about a quarter of a pint. The immediate effect of this beverage is not perceptible on thefe people,vrwho ufe it fo frequently ; but on fome of ours, who ventured to try it, though fo hadily prepared, it had the fame power as fpirits have, in intoxicating them; or rather, it produced that kind of Stupefaction which is * The following account of kava, to the end of this paragraph, is inferted from Mr. Anderfon's journal. the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. the confequence of ufing opium, or other fubftan- ces of that kind. It fhould be obferved, at the fame u time, that though thefe iflanders have this liquor always frefh prepared, and I have feen them drink it feven times before noon, it is, neverthelefs, So difagreeable, or, at leaft, feems So, that the great- eft part of them cannot fwallow it without making wry faces, and fhuddering afterward." As foon as this mourning ceremony was over, we left Mooa, and fet out to return to the fhips. While we rowed down the lagoon or inlet, we met with two canoes coming in from fifhing. Poulaho ordered them to be called along-fide our boat, and took from them every fifh and fhell they had got. He, afterward, flopped two other canoes, and Searched them, but they had nothing. Why this was done, I cannot Say ; for we had plenty of provisions in the boat. Some of this fifh he gave to me ; and his fervants Sold the red on board the fhip. As we proceeded down the inlet, we overtook a large failing canoe. Every perfon on board her, that was upon his legs when we came up, Sat down till we had paffed ; even the man who Steered, though he could not manage the helm, except in a flanding podure. Poulaho, and others, having informed me, that there was Some excellent water on Onevy, a little ifland, which lies about a league off the mouth of the inlet, and on the North fide of the Eaft- ern channel, we landed there, in order to tafte it. But I found it to be as brackifh as moft that we had met with. This ifland is quite in a natural ftate, being only frequented as a fifhing place, and has nearly the Same productions as Palmerfton's Ifland, with Some eloa trees. After leaving Onevy, where we dined, in our way to the fhip, we took a view of a curious coral rock, which feems to have been thrown upon the reef where A VOYAGI T O 1777. where it Stands. It is elevated about ten or twelve J"1* feet above the furface of the fea that furrounds it. The bafe it refts upon, is not above one-third of the circumference of its projecting fummit, which I judged to be about one hundred feet, and is covered with etoa and pandanus trees. Jxf When we got on board the fhip, I found that every thing had been quiet during my abfence, not a theft having been committed; of which Feenou, and Futtafaihe, the king's brother, who had undertaken the management of his countrymen, boafted not a little. This (hews what power the Chiefs have, when they have the will to execute it; which we were feldom to expect, fince, whatever was ftolen from us, generally, if not always, was conveyed to them. The good conduct of the natives was of fhort Satur. 28. duration ; for, the next day, fix or eight of them affaulted fome of our people, who were Sawing planks. They were fired upon by the Sentry ; and one was Suppofed to be wounded, and three others taken, Thefe I kept confined till night; and did not difmifs them without punifhment. After this, they behaved with a little more circumspection, and gave us much lefs trouble. This change of behaviour, was certainly occafioned by the man being wounded ; for, before, they had only been told of the effect of fire-arms, but now they had felt it. The repeated infolence of the natives, had induced me to order the mufkets of the Sentries to be loaded with Small fhot, and to authorize them to fire on particular occafions. I took it for granted, therefore, that this man had only been wounded with fmall fhot. But Mr. King and Mr. Anderlbn, in an excurfion into the country, met with him, and found indubitable marks of his having been wounded, but not 2 dangerouflyj THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 32s dangeroufly, with a mufket ball. I never could find 1777. out how this mufket happened to be charged with v_J^Lj ball; and there were people enough ready to fwear, ^""V'""-J that its contents were only fmall fhot. Mr. Anderfon's account of the excurfion, juft mentioned, will fill up an interval of two days, during which nothing of note happened, at the Ships : " Mr. King and I went, on die 30th, along Mond. 30, with Futtafaihe as vifiters to his houfe, which is at Mooa, very near that of his brother Poulaho. A Short time after we arrived, a pretty large hog was killed ; which is done by repeated Strokes on the head. The hair was then Scraped off, very dex- troufly, with the (harp edge of pieces of fplit bamboo ; taking the entrails out at a large oval hole cut in the belly, by the fame fimple instrument. Before this, they had prepared an oven ; whichYs^ large hole dug in the earth, filled at the botfoffi with (tones, about the fize of the firft, over which a fire is made till they are red hot. They took fome of thefe (tones, wrapt up in leaves of the bread-fruit tree, and filled the hog's belly, (luffing in a quantity of leaves, to prevent their falling out, and putting a plug of the fame kind in the anus. The carcafe was then placed on fome Slicks laid acrofs the Stones, in a Standing pofture, and covered with a great quantity of plantain leaves. After which, they dug up the earth, all roundj and having thus effectually clofed the oven, the operation of baking required no farther interference. In the mean time, we walked about the country, but met with nothing remarkable, except afiatooka of one houfe, Handing on an artificial mount, at leaft thirty feet high. A little on one fide of it, was a pretty large open area; and, not far off, was a good deal of uncultivated ground ; which, on in- quiring? why it lay wafte; our guides feemed to Vol. I. Y fay, A VOYAGE TO Say, belonged to the fiatooka (whigb/ was Poulaho's), and was not, by any means, to be touched. There Jwas alfo, at no great diftance, a number of etooa trees, on which clung vaft numbers of the large tef&ite bats, making a difagreeable noife. We could not kill any, at this time, for want of muf- kets; but Some, that were got at Annamooka, meafured near three Seet, when the wings were extended. On our returning to Futtafaihe's houfe, he ordered the hog, that had been dreffed, to be produced, with feveral bafkets of baked yams, and fome cocoa-nuts. But we found, that inftead of his entertaining us, we were to entertain him ; the property of the feaft being entirely transferrec|ftpi us, as his guefts, and we were to difpofe of it as we pleated. The fame perfon who cleaned the hog in the morning, now cut it up (but not before we defired him), in a very dexterous manner, with a knife of fplit bamboo; dividing the feveral parts, and hitting the joints, with a quicknefs and Skill that furprized us very much. The whole was fet down before us, though at leaft fifty pounds weight, until we took a fmall piece away, and defired, that they would fhare the reft amongft the people fitting round. But it was not without a great many fcruples they did that at laft; and then they aiked, what particular perfons they Should give it to. However, they were very well pleaSed, when they Sound, that it was not contrary to any cudom of ours; fome carrying off the portion they had received, and others eating if upon the Spot. It was with great difficulty, that we could prevaiL upon Futtafaihe himfelf to eat a fmall bit. After dinner, we went with him, and five or fix people, his attendants, toward the place where Poulaho's mourning ceremony was tranfacted, the lad time we were at Mooa; but we did not enter the inclofure. Every perfon who went with THE PACIFIC OCEAN. us, had the mat tied over his cloth, and fome leaves about the neck,"as had been done on the former occafion ; and when we arrived at a large open boat- houfe, where a few people were, they threw away their leaves, fat down before it, and gave their cheeks a few gentle drokes with the fird; after which they continued fitting, for about ten minutes, with a very grave appearance, and then dif- perfed, without having Spoken a fingle word. This explained what Poulaho had mentioned about Tooge; though, from the operation only lading a ^p-feconds, he had not been obServed to perform it. And this feems to be only a continuation of the mourning ceremony, by way of condolence. For, upon inquiring, on whofe account it was now performed ; we were told, that it was for a Chief who had died at Vavavoo, fome time ago; that they had practifed it ever fince, and fhould continue to do fo, for a confiderable time longer. In the evening, we had a pig, dreded as the hog, with yams and cocoa-nuts, brought for Supper; and Futtafaihe finding, that we did not like the Scruples they had made before, to accept of any part of the entertainment, afked us immediately to fhare it, and give it to whom we pleafed. When Supper was over, abundance of cloth was brought for us to Sleep in | but we were a good deal diflurb- ed, by a Singular indance of luxury, in which tkeir principal men indulge themfelves; that of being beat while they are afleep. Two women fat by Futtafaihe, and performed this operation, which is called tooge tooge, by beating brifklyyte his body and legs, with both fids, as on a drum, till he fell afleep, and continuing it the whole night, with fome Short intervals. When once the perSon is afleep, they abate a little in the Arength and quicknefs of the beating; but refume it, if they obferve any appearance of his awaking. In the morning, Y z we 324 1777 June July. Tuefd, I A VOYAGE TO we found that Futtafaihe's women relieved each ; other, and went to Sleep by turns. In any other country, it would be fuppofed, that fuch a practice would put an end to all red; but here it certainly acts as an opiate; and is a drong proof of what habit may effect. The noife of this, however, was not the only thing that kept us awake; for the people, who paffed the night in the houfe, not only converfed amongd each other frequently, as in the day; but all got up before it was light, and made a hearty meal on fifh and yams, which were brought to them by a perfon, who feemed to know very well the appointed time for this nocturnal refreshment. Next morning we fet out with Futtafaihe, and walked down the Eaft fide of the bay, to the point. The country, all along this fide, is well cultivated; but, in general, not fo much inclofed as at Mooa; and amongft many other plantain fields that we paffed, there was one at leaft a mile long, which wis in excellent order, every tree growing with great vigour. We found, that, in travelling, Futtafaihe exercifed a power, though by no means wantonly, which pointed out the great authority of fuch principal men; or is, perhaps, only annexed to thofe of the royal family. For he Sent to one place for fifh ; to another for yams; and fo on, at other pjaces; and all his orders were obeyed with the greateft readinefs, as if he had been abfo- lute mafter of the people's property. On coming to the point, the natives mentioned fomething of one, who, they faid, had been fired at by fome of our people; and, upon our wishing to fee him, they conducted us to a houfe, where we found a man, who had been fhot through the fhoulder, but not dangeroufly; as the ball had entered a little above the inner part of the collar bone, and paffed out obliquely backward. We were fure, 2 from THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 325 from the Slate of the wound, that he was the per- 1777. fon who had been fired at by one of the fentinels, HH three days before ; though pofitive orders had been * * given, that none of them fhould load their pieces with any thing but fmall fhot. We gave fome directions to his friends how to manage the wound, to which no application had been made; and they feemed pleated, when we told them it would get well in a certain time. But, on our going away, they afked us to fend the wounded man fome yams, and other things for food; and in Such a manner, that we could not help thinking they confidered it to be our duty to fupport him, till he fhould get well. In the evening we croffed the bay to our ftation, in a canoe, which Futtafaihe had exercifed his prerogative in procuring, by calling to the fird that paffed by. He had alfo got a large hog at this place; and brought a fervant from his houfe with a bundle of cloth, which he wanted us to take with us, as a prefent from him. But the boat being fmall, we objected ; and he ordered it to be brought over to us the next day." 1 had prolonged my day at this ifland, on account of the approaching eclipfe; but, on the 2d Wedn.a. of July, on looking at the micrometer belonging to the board of longitude, I found fome of the rack work broken, and the inflrument ufelefs till repaired; which there was not time to do before it was intended to be ufed. Preparing now for our departure, I got on board, this day, all the cattle, poultry, and other animals, except fuch as were deftined to remain, I had, defigned to leave a turkey-cock and hen ; but having now only two of each undifpofed of, one of the hens, through the ignorance of one of my people, was drangled, and 326 A VOYAGE TO 1777- and died upon the fpot. I had brought three tur- ^jj"*^, key-hens to thefe iflands. One was killed as above mentioned; and the other, by an ufelefs dog belonging to one of the officers. Thefe two accidents put it out of my power to leave a pair here; and, at the fame time, to carry the breed to Otaheite, for which ifland they were originally intended. I was Sony, afterward, that I did not give the preference to Tongataboo, as the prefent would have been of more value there than at Otaheite ; for the natives of the former ifland, I am perfuaded, would have taken more pains to multiply the breed. Thurf. 3. The next day we took up our anchor, and moved the dips behind Pangimodoo, that we might be ready to take the advantage of the firft favourable wind, to get through the narrows. The king, who was one of our company, this day, at dinner, I obferved, took particular notice of the plates. This occafioned me to make him an offer of one, either of pewter, or of earthen ware. He chofe the firft ; and then began to tell us the feveral ufes to which he intended to apply it. Two of them are So extraordinary, that I cannot omit mentioning them. He Said, that, whenever he Should have occafion to vifit any of the other iflands, he would leave this plate behind him "at Tongataboo, as a fort of representative, in his abSence, that the people might pay it the Same obeiSance they do to himSelf in perfon. He was afked, what had been ufually employed for this purpofe, before he got this plate ; and we had the Satisfaction of learning from him, that this Angular honour had hitherto been conferred on a wooden bowl in which he wafhed his hands. The other extraordinary ufe to which he meant to apply it in the room of his wooden bowl, was to difcover a thief. He Said, that, when any thing was dolen, and the thief THE PACIFIC OCEAN. thief could not be found out, ri^s-people were all \f, affembled together before him, when he wafhed his J^1 hands in water in this Veffel; after which it was cleaned, and then the whole multitude advanced, one after another, and touched it in the fame manner that they touch his foot, when they pay him abeifance. If the guilty perfon touched it, he died immediately upon the fpoT; not by violence, but by the hand of Providence ; and if any one reAWeti* to touch it, his refufal was a clear proof that he was the man. Satur In the morning of the 5th, the day of the eclipfe, the weattjir was dark and cloudy, with Showers of rain ; So that we had little hopes of an obfervation. About nine o'clock the fun broke out at intervals for about half an hour * after which it was totally obfcured, till within a minute or two of the beginning of the eclipfe. We were all at our telefcqpfeS;-viz. Mr. Baily, Mr. King, Captain. Clerke, Mr. Bligh, and myfelf. I lod the observation, by not having a dark glafs at hand, tunable to the clouds that were continually palling over the fun; and Mr. Bligh had not got the Sun into the field of his teleScope; So that the commencement of the eclipfe was only obferved by the other three gentlemen ; and by them, with an uncertainty of feveral feconds, as follows : H. M. s. By Mr, Bayly, at 11 46 234-] Mr. King, at 11 46 28 v Apparent time. Capt. Clerke, at 11 47 5 \ Mr. Bayly and Mr. King obferved, with the achromatic telefcopes, belonging to the board of longitude, of equal magnifying powers ; and Captain Clerke obferved with one of the reflectors. The fun appeared at intervals, till about the middle of the eclipfe ; after which it was feen no more during V O Y A G E TO during the day; $t that the end>,#ould not be obferved. The difappointment was of little confe- quence, fince the longitude was more than fufficiently determined, independently of this eclipfe, by lunar obfervations, which will be mentioned hereafter. As foon as we knew the eclipfe to be over, we packed up the indruments, took down the obferva- tories, and Sent every thing on board that had not been already removed. As none of the natives had taken the lead notice or care of the three Sheep allotted to Mareewagee, I ordered them to be carried back to the Ships. I was apprehenfive, that, if I had left them here, they run great rifk of being deftroyed by dogs. That animal did not exift upon this ifland, when I firft vifited it in 1773; but I now found they had got a,good many, partly from the breed then left by myfelf, and partly from fome, imported fince that time, from an ifland not very remote, called Feejee. The dogs, however, at prefent, had not found their wa$,into any of the Friepdly Iflands, except Tongataboo; and none but the Chiefs there had, as yet, got poffeffion of any. Being now upon the eve of our departure from this ifland, I Shall add fome particulars about it, and its productions, for which I am indebted to Mr. Anderfon. And, having fpent as many weeks there, as I had done days * when I vifited it in 1773, the better opportunities that now occurred, of gaining more accurate information, and the Skill of that gentleman, in directing his inquiries, will, in Some meafure, Supply the imperfection oS my former account of this island. " Amsterdam, Tongataboo, or (as the natives alfo very frequently called it) Tonga, is about twenty a'the 4th to the 7th of Oflober. leagues THE PACIFIC OCEAN. leagues in circuit, Somewhat oblong, though, by much, broadeft at the Eaft end ; and its greateft length from Eaft to Weft. The South Shore, *~ which I Saw in 1773, is flraight, and confids of coral rocks, eight or ten feet high, terminating perpendicularly, except in fome places, where it is interrupted by fmall fandy beaches; on which, at low water, a range of black rocks may be feen. The Wed end is not above five or fix miles broad, but has a fhore fomewhat like that of the South fide; whereas the whole North fide is environed with fhoals and iflands, and the fhore within them low and fandy. The Ead fide or end is, moft probably, like the South ; as the Shore begins to af- i'ume a rocky appearance, toward the North Eaft point, though not above feven or eight feet high. The ifland may, with the greateft propriety, be called a low one, as the trees, on the Weft part, where we now lay at anchor, only appeared ; and the only eminent part, which can be Seen from a Ship,- is the South Eaft point; though many gently rifing and declining grounds are obServ- able by one who is afhore. The general appearance of the country does not afford that beautiful kind of landfcape that is produced from a variety of hills and valleys, lawns, rivulets, and cafcades ; but, at the fame time, it conveys to the Spectator an idea of the moft exuberant fertility, whether we refpect the places improved by art, or thofe dill in a natural date; both which yield all their vegetable productions with the greateft vigour, and perpetual verdure; At a distance, the furface feems entirely clothed with trees of various Sizes; Some of which are very large. But above the reft, the tall cocoa-palms always raiSe their tufted heads; a^d are far from being the Snjpjeft ornament t9 any country that produces them. The boogo, A VOYAGE TO hoogo, which is a Species of fig, with narrow pointed leaves, is the largeft fized tree bF'rae ifland; and on the uncultivated Spots, efpecially toward the fea, the moft common bufhes and fmall trees are the pandanus; feveral. forts of hibifcus ; the faita- noo, mentioned-more than once in the eourfe of difrv|oyage ; and a few others. It ought alio to be obferved, that though the materials for forming grand landscapes are wanting, there 'are many of what might, at leaft, be called neat profpects, about the cultivated grounds and dwelling-places; but, more efpecially, abb'ut the fiatookas ; where fometimes art, and Sometimes nature, has done much to pleaSe the eye. From the fituation of Tongataboo, toward the tropic, the climate is more variable, than in e6i|^| tries farther within that line; though, perhaps, that might be o|$ng to the feafon of the year, which was now the winter folftice. The winds are, for the moft part, from fome point between* South and Eaft; and, when moderate, are commonly attended with fine weather. When they blow freflier, the weather is often cloudy, though open; and, in fuch cafes, there is frequently rain. The wind fometimes veers to the North Eaft, North North Eaft, or even North North Weft, but never lafts long, nor blows Strong from thence; though it is commonly accompanied by heavy^fifi^ and clofe Sultry weather. The quick Succeffion of vegetables has been already mentioned ; but I am not certain that the changes of weather, by which it is brought about, are confiderable enough to make them perceptible to the natives as to their method of life, or rather that they fhould be very fenfible of the different feafons. This, perhaps, may be inferred from the date of their vegetable productions, which are never fo much affected, with i refpect THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 331 refpect to the foliage, as to filed that all at oncsag| 1777. for every leaf is fucceeded by another, as fad as it Ju)y- falls; which caufes that appearance of univerfal "*" and continual fpring found here. The bafis of the ifland, as far as we know, is entirely a coral rock, which is the only fort that pre- fents itfelf on the fhore. Nor did we fee the lead appearance of any other done, except a few fmall blue pebbles ftrewed about the fiat00kas ; and the fmooth, folid black done, fomething like the lapis lydius, of which the natives make their hatchets. But thefe may, probably, have been brought from other iflands in the neighbourhood ; for a piece of flatey, iron-coloured done was bought at one of them, which was never feen here. Though the coral projects in many places abowertshe furface, the foil is, in general, of a confiderable depth. In all cultivated places, it is commonly, of a loofe, black colour; produced, feemingly, in a great meafure, from the reifeten vegetables that are planted there. Underneath which is, very probably, a clayey firatum ; for a foil of that kind is often feen both in the low, and in the rifing grounds; but efpecially in feveral places toward the fhore, where it is of any height; and, when broken off, appears fometimes of a reddifh, though oftener of a brownifh yellow colour, and of a pretty diff confidence. Where the fhore is low, the foil is commonly fandy, or rather compofed of triturated coral; which, however, yields bufhes growing with great luxuriance ; and is Sometimes planted, not unfucceSsfully, by the natives. Of cultivated fruits, the principal are plantains; of which they have fifteen different Sorts or varieties ; bread fruit; two forts of fruit found at Otaheite, and known there under the names of jam- bu and eeevee; the latter a kind of plumb ; and vaft numbers A VOYAGE TO numbers of Shaddocks, which, however, are found as often in a natural ftate, as planted. The roots are yams, of which are two forts ; one black, and fo large, that it often weighs twenty or thirty pounds; the other white, and long, feldom weighing a pound ; a large root, called kappe; one not unlike our white potatoes, called mawhaha; the talo, or coccos of other places ; and another, named jeejee. Befides vaft numbers of cocoa-nut trees, they have three other forts of palms, two of which are very fearce. One of them is called beeoo ; which grows almoft as high as the cocoa-tree, has very large leaves plaited like a fan, and clutters or bunches of globular nuts, not larger than a fmall piftol ball, growing amongft the branches, with a very hard kernel, which is fometimes eat. The other is a kind of cabbage-tree, not distinguishable from the cocoa, but by being rather thicker, and by having its leaves more ragged. It has a cabbage three or four feet long; at the top of v/hich are the leaves, and at the bottom the fruit, which is fcarcely two inches long, reSembling an oblong cocoa-nut, with an infipid tenacious kernel, called, by the natives, neeoogoola, or red cocoa-nut, as it affumes a reddifh call: when ripe. The third fort is called ongo ongo, and much commoner, being generally found planted about theirfiatookas. It feldom grows higher than five feet, though fome-' times to eight; and has a vaft number of oval compreffed nuts, as large as a pippin, flicking immediately to the trunk, amongft the leaves, which are not eat. There is plenty of excellent fugar-cane, which is cultivated; gourds; bamboo; turmeric; and a fpecies of fig, about the fize of a fmall cherry, called matte, which, though wild, is fometimes eat. But the catalogue of THE PACIFIC OCEAN. of uncultivated plants is too large to be enumerated here. Befides the pemphis decafpermum, mallococca,. maba, and fome other new genera, defcribed by Dr. Fofter *, there are a Sew more found here; which, perhaps, the different feafons of the year, and his fhort flay, did not give him an'2#gportunity to take notice of. Although it did notlfepcar, during our longer flay, that above a fourth part of the trees, and other plants, were in flower; a circumftanee abfolutely neceffary, to enable one to distinguish the various kinds. The only quadrupeds, befides hogs, are a few rats, and fome dogs, which are not natives of the place, but produced from fome left by us in 1773, and by others got from Feejee. FowlS£*which are of a large breed, are domesticated here. Amongft the birds, are parrots, fomewbat fmaller than the common grey ones, of an indifferent green on the back and wings, the tail bfeifh, and the red of a footy or chocolate brown; parroquets, not larger than a fparrow, of a fine, yellowifh green, with bright azure on the crown of the head, and the throat and belly red ; befides another fort as large as a dove, with a blue crown and thighs, the throat and under part of the head crimfon, as alfo part of the belly, and the red a beautiful green. There are owls about the fize of our common fort, fetttjfof a finer plumage; the cuckoos, mentioned at Palmerdon's Ifland; king-fifhers, about the fize of a thrufh, of a greenifh blue, with a white ring about the neck; and a bird of the thrufh kind, almod as big, of a dull green colour, with two yellow wattles at the bafe of the bill, which is the only Singing one we obferved here; but it compenfates * See his Charatteres Generum-Plant arum. Lond. 1776. WmVU. a good A. VOYAGE. TO a good deal for the want of others by the ftrength and melody of its notes, which fill the woods at dawn, in the evening, and at the breaking up of bad weather. The other land birds are rails, as large as a pigeon, of a variegated grey colour, with a rudy neck ; a black fort with red eyes, not larger than a lark; large violet-coloured coots, with red bald crowns; two forts of fly-catchers; a very final! Swallow; and three forts of pigeons, one of which is le ramier cuivre of Monf. Sonnerat * ; another, half the fize of the common fort, of a light green on the back and wings, with a red forehead ; and a third, fomewhat lefs, of a purple brown, but whit- ifh underneath. Of water-fowl, and fuch as frequent the fea, are the ducks feen at Annamooka, though fcarce here * fefesmd white herons; tropic birds; common noddies; white terns; a new fpecies of a leaden colour, with a black cred; a fmall bluifh curlew \ and a large plover, Spotted with yellow. Befides the large bats, mentioned before, there is alfo the common fort. The only noxious or difguding animals of the reptile or infect tribe, are Sea Snakes, three feet long, with black and white circles alternately, often found on Shore; fome fcorpions, and centipedes. There are fine green guanoes, a foot and a half long; another brown and fpotted lizard, about a foot long; and two other fmall forts. Amongft the other infects are fome beautiful moths ; butterflies; very large fpiders; and others; making, in the whole, about fifty different forts. The fea abounds with fifh, though the variety is lefs than might be expected. The moft frequent * Voyage a la Nouvelle Gwnie, Tab. CII.j THE PACIFIC OCEAN. forts are mullets; feveral forts of parrot-fiSh; Silver fiSh.; old wives; fome beautifully fpotted Soles; leather-jackets; bonnetoaj and albicores; befides ^" the eels mentioned at Palmerfton's lfland; Some Sharks; rays; pipe-fifh ; a fort of pike ; and fome curious devil-fifh. The many reefs and .fhoals on the North fide of the ifland, afford fhelter for an endlefs variety of fheU-fifh;- amongft which are many that are efteem- ed precious in Europe. Such as the true hammer oyfter; of which, however, none could be obtained entire; a large indentated oyfter, and feveral others; but none of the common fort; panamas | cones; a fort of gigantic cockle, found alfo in the Eaft Indies; pearl Shell oyfters ; and many others; feveral of which, I believe, have been hithertojpi-- known to the moft diligent inquirers after that branch of natural hiftory. There are, likewife, Several forts of fea-eggs; and many very fine ftar- fifh; befides a confiderable variety of corals; amongft. which are two red forts; the one moft elegantly branched, the other tubulous. And there is no lefs variety amongft the crabs and cray fifh, which are very numerous. To which may be added, feveral Sorts of Sponge; the Sea hare, holothuria, and the like." CHAP. 33$ A VOYAGE TO CHAP. IX. A grand Solemnity, called Natche, in Honour of the King's Son, performed.—The Procejfions and other Ceremonies, during the firft Day, defcrihed. —The Manner of paffing the Night at the King's Houfe.—Continuation of the Solemnity, the next Day. — Conjetlures about the Nature of it. — Departure/rom Tongataboo, and Arrival at Eooa. — Account of that Ifland, and Tranfatlions there. iitj. *\117"E were now ready to Sail; but the wind be- vjl"1!*, ▼ ▼ ing Eafterly, we had not fufficient day- Sunday 6. l'gnt to turn through the narrows, either with the morning, or with the evening flood; the one falling out too early, and the other too late. So that, without a leading wind, we were under a neceflity of waiting two or three days. I took the opportunity of this delay, to be prefent at a public Solemnity, to which the king had invited us, when we went lad to vifit him, and which, he had informed us, was to be performed on the 8th. With a view to this, he andall the people of Mond. 7. note, quitted our neighbourhood on the yth, and repaired to Mooa, where the Solemnity was to be exhibited. A party of us followed them, the next Tuefd. 8. morning. We underdood, from what Poulaho had faid to us, that his fon and heir was now to he initiated into certain privileges ; amongd which THE PACIFIC OCEAN. which was, that of eating with his father; an honour he had not, as yet, been admitted to. % We arrived at Mooa about eight o'clock, and found the king, with a large circle of attendants fitting before him, within an inclofure fo fmall and dirty, as to excite my wonder that any fuch could be found in that neighbourhood. They were intent upon their ufual morning occupation, in preparing a bowl of kava. As this was no liquor for us, we walked out to vifit'fome of our friends, and to obferve what preparations might be making for the ceremony, which was foon to begin. About ten o'clock, the people began to affemble, in a large area, which is before the malaee, or great houfe, to which we had been conducted the fird time we vifited Mooa. At the end of a road, that opens into this area, dood fome men with fpears and clubs, who kept condantly reciting, or chanting, fhort fentences, in a mournful tone, which conveyed fome idea of didrefs, and as if they called for fomething. This was continued about an hour; and, in the mean time, many people came down the road, each of them bringing a yam, tied to the middle of a pole, which they laid down before the perfons who continued repeating the fentences. Wnile this was going on, the king and prince arrived, and feated themfelves upon the area; and we were defired to fit down by them, hut to pull off our hats, and to untie our hair. The bearers of the yams being all come in, each pole was taken up between two men, who carried it over their Shoulders. After forming themfelves into companies, of ten or twelve perfons each, they marched acrofs the place, with a quick pace; each company, headed by a man hearing a club or Spear, and guarded, on the right, by Several others, armed' with different weapons. A man carrying a living pigeon on a perch, clofed the rear of the proctf-. Vol. I. Z fion, A VOYAGE TO fion, in which about two hundred and fifty per- ( fons walked. Omai was defired by me, to afk the Chief, to what place the yams were to be thus carried, with fo much folemnity ? but, as he feemed unwilling to give us the information we wanted, two or three of us followed the proceflion, contrary to his inclination. We found, that they flopped before a morai or fiatooka * of one houfe danding upon a mount, which was hardly a quarter of a mile from the place where they fird affembled. Here we obferved them depofiting the yams, and making them up into bundles; but for what purpofe, we could not learn. And, as our prefence feemed to give them un- eafinefs, we left them, and returned to Poulaho, who told us, we might amufe ourfelves by walking about, as nothing would be done for fome time. The fear of lofing any part of the ceremony, prevented our being long abfent. When we returned to the king, he defired me to order the boat's crew not to Stir from the boat; for, as every thing would, very foon, be taboo, if any of our people, or of their own, Should be found walking about, they would be knocked down with clubs; nay mateed, that is, killed. He alfo acquainted us, that we could not be prefent at the ceremony; but that we Should be conducted to a place, where we might See every thing that paffed. Objections were made to our drefs". We were told, that, to qualify us to be prefent, it was neceffary that we Should be naked as low as the bread, with our hats off, and our hair untied. Omai offered to conform to thefe requifites, and began to drip; other objections were then darted ; fo that the exclufion was given to him equally with ourSelves. * This is the fiatooka mentioned above by Mr, Anderfon, p. 321. I did THE PACIFIC OCEAN. I did not much like this redriction ; and, therefore, dole out, to fee what might now be going Sorward. I found very few people dirring, except thofe dreffed to attend the ceremony ; fome of whom had in their hands fmall poles, about four feet long, and to the under-part of thefe were faf- tened two or three other dicks, not bigger than one's finger, and about fix inches in length. Thefe men were going toward the moral jud mentioned. I took the fame road, and was, feveral times, dopped by them, all crying out taboo. However, I went forward, without much regarding them, till I came in fight of the moral, and of the people who were fitting before it. I was now urged, very drongly, to go back; and, not knowing what might be the confequence of a refufal, I complied. I had obferved, that the people, who carried the poles, paffed this morai, or what I may, as well, call temple ; and gueffing, from this circumdance, that fomething was tranfacting beyond it, which might be worth looking at, I had thoughts of advancing, by making a round, for this purpofe; but I was fo clofely watched by three men, that I could not put my defign in execution. In order to Shake thefe fellows off, I returned to the malaee, where I had left the king, and, from thence, made an elopement a fecond time; but I inflantly met with the Same three men; So that it Seemed, as if they had been ordered to watch my motions. I paid no regard to what they faid or did, till I came within fight of the king's principal fiatooka or morai, which I have already deicribed *, before which a great number of men were fitting, being the fame perfons whom I had jud before feen pafs by the other moral, from which this was but a little diftant. Obferving, that I could watch the proceed- Z 2 34° A VOYAGE TO 1777. ings of this company from the king's plantation, Jul7- I repaired thither, very much to the fatisfaction of v~"~' thofe who attended me. As foon as I got in, I acquainted the gentlemen who had come with me from the fhips, with what 1 had feen ; and we took a proper dation, to watch the refult. The number of people, at the fiatooka, continued to increafe for fome time ; and, at length, we could fee them quit their fitting podure, and march off in proceffion. They walked in pairs, one after another, every pair carrying, between them, one of the fmall poles above-mentioned, on their Shoulders. We were told, that the Small pieces of dicks, fadened to the poles, were yams; So that, probably, they were meant to repreSent this root emblematically. The hindmod men of each couple, for the mod part, placed one of his hands to the middle of the pole, as if, without this additional fupport, it were not drong enough to carry the weight that hung to it, and under which they all Seemed to bend, as they walked. This proceffion confifled of one hundred and eight pairs, and all, or moft of them, men of rank. They came clofe by the fence behind which we flood; fo that v/e had a full view of them. Having waited here, till they had all paffed, we then repaired to Poulaho's houfe, and faw him going out. We could not be allowed to follow him ; but were, forthwith, conducted to the place allotted to us, which was behind a fence, adjoining to the area of the fiatooka where the yams had been depofited in the forenoon. As we were not the only people who were excluded from being publicly prefent at this ceremony, but allowed to peep from behind the curtain, we had a good deal of company; and I obferved, that all the other inclofures, round the place, were filled with people. THE. PACIFIC OCEAN. j people. And, yet, all imaginable care feemed to 177 be taken, that they Should See as little as poffible; ^_Ju] for the fences had not only been repaired that morn- $ ing, but, in many places, raifed higher than common ; fo that the talleft man could not look over them. To remedy this defect in our Station, we took the liberty to cut holes in the fence, yfcjt]} - our knives; and, by this means, we could fee, pretty distinctly, every thing that was tranfacting On the other fide. On our arrival at our flation, we found two or three hundred people, fitting on the grafs, near the end of the road that opened into the area of the morai; and the number continually increafed, by others joining them. At length, arrived a few men carrying fome fmall poles, and branches or leaves of the cocoa nut tree; and, upon their firft appearance, an old man feated himfelf in the road, and, with his face toward them, pronounced a long oration in a ferious tone. He then retired back, and the others advancing to the middle of the area, began to erect a fmall fhed; employing, for that purpofe, the materials above-mentioned. When they had finifhed their work, they, all Squatted down, for a moment, before it, then rofe up, and ' retired to the reft of the company. Soon after, came Poulaho's fon, preceded by four or five men, and they feated themfelves a little afide from the Shed, and rather behind it. After them, appeared- twelve or fourteen women of the firft rank, walking Slowly in pairs, each pair carrying between them, a narrow piece of white cloth extended, about two or three yards in length. Thefe marched up to the prince, fquatted down before him ; and, having wrapped fome of the pieces of the cloth they had brought, round his body, they rofe up, and reared in the fame order, to fome diftance on his left, and there feated themfelves. Poulaho himfelf foon made his A VOYAGE TO his appearance preceded by four men, who walked ^ two and two abreaft, and Sat down on his fon's left hand, about twenty paces from him. The young prince, then, quitting his firft pofition, went and fat down under the Shed, with his attendants; and a confiderable number more placed themfelves on the grafs, before this royal canopy. The prince himfelf fat facing the people, with his back to the morai. This being done, three companies, of ten or a dozen men in each, darted up from amongft the large crowd, a little after each other, and running haftily to the oppofite fide of the area, fat down for a few feconds; after which, they returned, in the fame manner, to their former Stations, To them fucceeded two men, each of whom held a fmall green branch in his hand,|who got up and approached the prince, fitting down, for a few feconds, three different times, as they advanced; and then, turning their backs, retired in the fame manner, inclining their branches to each other as they fat. In a little time, two more repeated this ceremony. The grand proceffion, which I had feen march off from the other morai, now began to come in. To judge of the circuit they had made, from the time they had been abfent, it muft have been pretty large. As they entered the area, they marched up to the right of the died, and, having proftrated themfelves on the grafs, depofited their pretended burthens (the poles above-mentioned), and faced round to the prince. They then rofe up, and retired in the fame order, clofing their hands, which they held before them, with the moft ferious afpect, and Seated themfelves along the front of the area. During all the time that this numerous band were coming in, and depofiting their poles, three men, who fat under the Shed, with the prince, continued pronouncing THE PACIFIC OCEAN: 343 pronouncing Separate Sentences, in a melancholy 1777. tone. After this, a profound filence enfued, for'a ^J"'^, little time, and then a man, who fat in the front of ^~v""*u the area, began an oration (or prayer), during which, at feveral different times, he went and broke one of the poles, which had been brought in by thofe who had walked in proceffion. When he had ended, the people, fitting before the died, feparat- ed, to make a lane, through which the prince and his attendants paffed, and the affembly broke up. Some of our party, fatisfied with what they had already feen, now returned to the fhips ; but I, and two or three more of the officers, remained at Mooa, to fee the conclufion of the folemnity, which was not to be till the next day; being defirous of omitting no opportunity, which might afford any.-'^j formation about the religious or the political institutions of this people. The fmall Slicks or poles, which had been brought into the area, by thofe who walked in proceffion, being left lying on the ground, after the crowd had difperfed, I went and examined them. I found, that to the middle of each, two or three fmall dicks were tied, as has been related. Yet we had been repeatedly told by the natives, who dood near us, that they were young yams; infomuch that fome of our gentlemen believed them, rather than their own eyes. As I had the demondration of my fenfes to Satisfy me, that they were not real yams, it is clear, that we ought to have underdood them, that- they were only the artificial reprefentations of thefe roots. Our fupper was got ready about feven o'clock. It confided of fifh and yams. We might have had pork alfo; but we did not chufe to kill a large hog, which the king had given to us for that purpofe. He dipped with us, and drank pretty freely of brandy A VOYAGE TO brandy and water; fo that he went to bed with a fufficient dofe. We paffed the night in the fame houfe with him, and feveral of his attendants. About one or two o'clock in the morning they waked, and coriverfed for about an hour, and then Went to deep again. All, but Poulaho himfelf, rofe at day-break, and went, I know not whither. Soon after, a woman, one of thofe who generally attended upon the Chief, came in, and inquired where he was. I pointed him out to her; and fhe immediately fat down by him, and began the Same operation, which Mr. Anderfon had Seen practiSed upon Futtafaihe, tapping or beating gently, with her clinched fifts, on his thighs. This, inftead of prolonging his Sleep, as was intended, had the contrary effect; however, though he awaked, he continued to lie down. Omai, and I, now went to vifit the prince, who had parted from us early in the evening. For be did not lodge with the king; but in apartments of his own, or, at leaft, Such as had been allotted to him, at fome diftance from his father's houfe. We found him with a circle of boys, or youths, about his own age, fitting before him; and an old woman, and an old man, who feemed to have the care of him, fitting behind. There were others, both men and women, employed about their neceffary affairs, in different departments; who, probably, belonged to his houfehold. From the prince we returned to the king. By this time he had got up, and had a crowded circle before him, competed chiefly of old men. While a large bowl of kava was preparing, a baked hog and yams, Smoking hot, were brought in; the greateft part of which fell to our fhare, and was very acceptable to the boat's crew; for thefe people eat THE PACIFIC OCEAN. eat very little in the morning ; efpecially the kava drinkers. I afterward walked out, and vifited feveral other Chiefs; and found, that all of them s"" were taking their morning draught, or had already taken it. Returning to the king, I found him afleep in a Small retired hut, with two women tapping on his breech. About eleven o'clock he arofe again ; and then Some fifh and yams, which taded as if they had been dewed in cocoa-nut milk, were brought to him. Of thefe he eat a large portion, and lay down once more to Sleep. I now left him, and carried to the prince a prefent of cloth, beads, and other articles, which I had brought with me from the Ship for the purpofe. There was a fufficient quantity of cloth to make him a complete fuit; and he was immediately decked out with it. Proud of his drefs, he fird went to Shew himfelf to his father; and then conducted me to his mother ; with whom were about ten or a dozen other women of a refpectable appearance. Here the prince changed his apparel, and made me a prefent of two pieces of the cloth manufactured in the ifland. By this time, it was pad noon, when, by appointment,! repaired to the palace to dinner. Several of our gentlemen had returned, this morning, from the Ships; and we were all invited to the fead, which was prefently ferved up, and confided of two pigs and yams. I roufed the drowfy monarch, to partake of what he had provided for jovH entertainment. In the mean time, two mullets, and fome fhell-fifh, were brought to him, as I fuppofed, for his feparate portion. But he joined it to our fare, fat down with us, and made a hearty meal. ''^iiFhen dinner was over, we were told that the ceremony would Soon begin ; and were dictly enjoined not to walk out. 1 had refolved, however, to I peep 346 A VOYAGE TO. 1777. peep no longer from behind the curtain, but to mix July- with the actors themfelves, if poflible. With this I *"" ' view, I dole out from the plantation, and walked toward the morai, the fcene of the folemnity. I was, feveral times, defired to go back, by people whom I met; but I paid no regard to them ; and they differed me to pafs on. When I arrived at the morai, I found a number of men feated on the fide of the area, on each fide of the road that leads up to it. A few were fitting on the oppofite fide of the area; and two men in the middle of it, with their faces turned to the morai. When I got into the midd of the fird company, I was defired to fit down ; which I accordingly did. Where I fat, there were lying a number of fmall btin|fej or parcels, compofed of cocoa-nut leaves, and tied to Sticks made into the form of hand-barrows. All the information I could get about them was, that they were taboo. Our number kept continually increasing ; every one coming from the fame quarter. From time to time, one or another of the company turned himfelf to thofe who were coming to join us, and made a fhort fpeech ; in which I could remark that the word arekee, that is King, was generally mentioned. One man faid fomething that produced burds of hearty laughter from all the crowd; others, of the Speakers, met wi,tjh;public ap- plaufe. I was, feveral times, defired to leave the place; and, at lad, when they found that I would not dir, after fome feeming confultation, they applied to me to uncover.my Shoulders as theirs were. With this requed I complied; and then they feemed to be no longer uneafy at my prefence. I fat a full hour, without any thing more going forward, befide what I have mentioned. At length the prince, the women, and the king, all came in, as.they had done the day before, The prince, being placed THE PACIFIC OCEAN. placed under the Shed, after his father's arrival, two men, each carrying a piece of mat, came, repeating fomething ferioufly, and put them about him. The affembled people now began their operations; and fird, three companies ran backward and forward acrofs the area, as defcribed in the account of the proceedings of the former day. Soon after, the two men, who fat in the middle of the area, made a fhort fpeech or prayer; and then the whole body, amongd whom I had my place, darted up, and ran and Seated themSelves before the died under w|^|^i the prince, and three or four men, were fitting. I was now partly under the management of one of the company, who feemed very affiduous to ferve me. By his means, I was placed in fuch actuation, that if I had been allowed to make ufe of my eyes, nothing that paffed could have efcaped me. But it was neceffary to fit with down-cad looks, and demure as maids. Soon after, the proceffion came in, as on the day before; each two perfons bearing on their fhoulders a pole, round the middle of which, a cocoa-nut leaf was plaited. TheSe were depofited with ceremonies Similar to thofe obferved on the preceding day. This fird proceffion was followed by a fecond ; the men compofing which, brought bafkets, fuch as are ufually employed by this people to carry provisions in, and made of palm leaves. Thefe were followed by a third proceffion, in which were brought different kinds of fmall fifh ; each fixed at the end of a forked dick. The bafkets were carried up to an old man, whom I took to be the Chief Pried, and who fat on the prince's right-hand, without the Shed. He held each in his hand, while he made a Short Speech or prayer; then laid it down, and called for another, repeating the fame words as before ; and thus he went through the whole number of bafkets. 348 A VOYAGE TO 1777, bafkets. The fifh were prefented, one by one, ori Jwly- the forked flicks, as they came in, to two men, who /~'^iat on the left; and who, till now, held green branches in their hands. The fird fifh they laid down on their right, and the fecond on their left. When the third was prefented, a dout looking man, who fat behind the other two, reached his arm over between them, and made a fnatch at it; as alfo did the other two, at the very fame time. Thus they feemed to contend for every fifh that was prefent* ed ; but as there were two hands againd one, be^ fides the advantage of fituation, the man behind got nothing but pieces; for he never quitted his hold, till the fifh was torn out of his hand ; and what little remained in it, he Shook out behind him. The others laid what they got, on the right and left alternately. At length, either By accident or defign, the man behind got poffeffion of a whole fifh, without either of the other two fo much as touching it. At this, the word mareeai, which Signifies very good, or well done, was uttered in a low voice throughout the whole crowd. It feemed, that he had performed now all that was expected from him; for he made no attempt upon the few fifh that came after. Thefe fifh, as alfo the bafkets, were all delivered, by the perfons who brought them in, fitting; and, in the fame order and manner, the fmall poles, which the firft proceffion carried, had been laid upon the ground. The lad proceffion being clofed, there was fome Speaking or praying, by different perSons. Then, on Some fignal being given, we all darted up, ran Several paces to the left, and fat down with our backs to the prince, and the few who remained with him. I was defired not to look behind me. However, neither this injunction, nor the remembrance of Lot's wife, dtfcouraged me from facing about. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. about, I now faw that the prince had turned his face to the morai. But this lad movement had brought fo many people between him and me, that J could not perceive what was doing. I was afterward affured, that, at this very time, the prince was admitted to the high honour of eating with his - father ; which, till now, had never been permitted to him ; a piece of roafted yam being prefented to each of them for this purpofe. This was the more probable, as we had been told, before-hand, that this was to happen during the folemnity ; and as all the people turned their backs to them, at this time, which they always do when their monarch eats. After fome little time, we all faced about, and formed a femicircle before the prince, leaving a large open fpace between us. Prefently there appeared Some men coming toward us, two and two, bearing large dicks, or poles, upon their Shoulders, making a noiSe that might be called Singing, and waving their hands as they advanced. When they had got clofe up to us, they made a fhew of walking very fad, without proceeding a fingle dep. Immediately after, three or four men darted up from the crowd^with large dicks in their hands, who ran toward thofe new-comers. The latter in- dantly threw down the poles from their fhoulders, and Scampered off; and the others attacked the poles ; and, having beat them Ji^pd unmercifully, returned to their places. As the pole-bearers ran off, they gave the challenge that is ufual here in wred- ling ; and not long after, a number of dout fellows came from the fame quarter, repeating the challenge as they advanced. Thefe were oppofed by a party, who came from the oppofite fide almod at the Same indant. The two parties paraded about the area for a few minutes, and then retired, each A VOYAGE T O to their own fide. After this, there were wredling and boxing-matches for about half an hour. Then ' two men feated themfelves before the prince, and made fpeeches, addreffed, as I thought, entirely to him. With this the folemnity ended, and the whole affembly broke up. I now went and examined the Several bafkets which had been preSented; a curiofity that 1 was not allowed before to indulge ; becaufe every thing was then taboo. But the folemnity being now over, they became, fimply, what I found them to be, empty bafkets. So that, whatever they were fuppofed to contain, was emblematically reprefented. And fo, indeed, was every other thing which had been brought in proceffion, except the fifh. We endeavoured, in vain, to find out the meaning, not only of the ceremony in general, which is called Natche, but of its different parts. We feldom got any other anfwer to our inquiries, but taboo; a word, which, I have before obferved, is applied to many other things. But, as the prince was, evidently, the principal perfon concerned in it; and as we had been told by the king, ten days before the celebration of the Natche, that the people would bring in yams for him and his fon to eat together; and as he even defcribed fome part of the ceremony, we concluded, from what he had then faid, and from what we now faw, that an oath of allegiance, if I may fo exprefs myfelf, or Solemn promife, was, on this occafion, made to the prince, as the immediate fucceffor to the regal dignity, to fland by him, and to furnifh him with the feveral articles that were here emblematically reprefented. This feems the more probable, as all the principal people of the ifland, whom we had ever feen, aflided in the proceffions. But, be this as it may, the whole was conducted with a great THE PACIFIC OCEAN. great deal of myfterious folemnity; and, that there was a mixture of religion in the inditution, was evident, not only from the place where it was per-^~ formed, but from the manner of performing it. Our drefs and deportment had never been called in quedion, upon any former occafion whatever. Now, it was expected that we fhould be uncovered as low as the waid ; that our hair fhould be loofe, and flowing over our Shoulders; that we fhould, like themfelves, fit crofs-legged; and, at times, in the mod humble podure, with down-cad eyes, and hands locked together; all which requifites were mod devoutly obferved by the whole affem- bly. And, ladly, every one was excluded from the folemnity, but the principal people, and thofe who affided in the celebration. All thefe circum- dances were to me a fufficient tedimony, that, upon this occafion, they confidered themfelves as acting under the immediate infpection of a Supreme Being. The prefent Natche may be confidered, from thd above account of it, as merely figurative. For the fmall quantity of yams, which we faw the fird day, could not be intended as a general contribution ; and, indeed, we were given to underdand, that they were a portion confecrated to the Otooa, or Divinity. But we were informed, that, in about three months, there would be performed, on the fame account, a far more important and grander folemnity ; on which occafion, not only the tribute of Tongataboo, but that of Hapaee, Vavaoo, and of all the other iflands, would be brought to the Chief,'and confirmed more awfully, by facri- ficing ten human victims from- amongft the inferior fort of people. A horrid folemnity indeed! and which is a mod fignificant indance of the influence of. gloomy and ignorant fuperdition, over s the A VOYAGE TO the minds of one of the mod benevolent and humane nations upon earth. On inquiring into the ""'reafons of fo barbarous a,practice, they only faid, that it was a neceffary part of the Natche; and that, if they omitted it, the Beity would certainly dedroy their king. Before the affembly broke up, the day was far fpent; and as we were at fome didance from the Ships, and had an intricate navigation to go through, we "were in hade to Set out from Mooa. When I took leave of Poulaho, he preffed me much to flay till the next day, to be prefent at a funeral ceremony. The wife of Mareewagee, who was mother- in-law to the king, had lately died ; and her corpfe had, on account of the Natche, been carried on board a canoe that lay in the lagoon. Poulaho told me, that, as foon as he had paid the lad offices to her, he would attend me to Eooa; but, if I did not wait, that he would follow me thither, I un- derdood, at the fame time, that, if it had not been for the death of this woman, mod of the Chiefs would have accompanied us to that ifland ; where, it feems all of them have poffeffions, I would gladly have waited to fee this ceremony alfo, had not the tide been now favourable for the fhips to get through the narrows. The wind, befides, which, for feveral days pad, had been very boiderous, was now moderate and fettled; and- to have lod this opportunity, might have detained us a fortnight longer. But what was decifive againd my waiting, we underdood that the funeral ceremonies would laft five days, which was too long a time, as the (hips lay in Such a Situation, that I could not get to Sea at pleaSure. I, however, affined the king, that, if we did not fail, I fhould certainly vifit him again the next day. And fo we all took leave of him, and fet out for the fhips, where we arrived about eight o'clock in the evening. I had THE PACIFIC OCEAN. I had forgot to mention, that Omai was prefent at this fecond day's ceremony, as well as myfelf \ but we were not together ; nor did I know that he was there, till it was almod ov^. He afterward told me, that, as foon as the king faw that I had dolen out from the plantation, he fent feveral people, one after another, to defire me to come back. Probably, thefe meffengers were not admitted to the place where I was; for I faw nothing of them. At lad, intelligence was brought to the Chief, that I had actually dripped, in conformity to their cuf- tom; and then he told (iraai, that he might be prefent alfo, if he would comply with all the neceffary forms. Omai had no objection, as nothing was required of him, but to conform to the cudom of his own country. Accordingly, he was furnifhed with a proper drefs, and appeared at the ceremony as one 4f iihe natives. It is likely, that one reafon of our being excluded at fird, was ansapprehenfion, that we would not fubmit to the requifites to qualify us toaffid. While I was attending the Natche at Mooa, I ordered the horfes, bull and. cow, and goats, to be brought thither; thinking that they would be fafer there, under thesifes of the Chiefs, than at a place that would be, in a manner, deferted, the moment after our departure. Befides the above-mentioned animals, we left, with our friends he^'.a young boar, and three young fows, of the Englifh breed. They were exceedingly defirous of them, judging, no doubt, that they would greatly improve their own breed, which is rather fmall. Feenou alfo got from us two rabbits, a buck and a doe ; and, before we failed, we were told, that young ones had been already produced. If the cattle fucceed, of which I make no doubt, it will be' a vad acquisition to thefe iflands; and, as Ton- V©l I A a gataboo A VOYAGE TO gataboo is a fine level country, the horfes cannot but be ufeful. On the ioth, at eight o'clock in the morning, we weighed anchor, and with a deady gale at South Ead, turned through the channel, between the fmall ifles called Makkahaa and Monooafai; it being much wider than the channel between the lad mentioned ifland and Pangimodoo. The flood fet drong in our favour, till we were the length of the channel leading up to the lagoon, where the flood from the Eadward meets that from the Wed. This, together with the indraught of the lagoon, and of the fhoals before it, caufeth Strong riplings and whirlpools. To add to thefe dangers, the depth of water in the channel exceeds the length of a cable; So that there is no anchorage, except cloSe to the rocks, where we met with forty and forty-five fathoms, over a bottom of dark fand. But then, here, a Ship would be expoSed to the whirlpools. This frustrated the defign which I had formed, of coming to an anchor, as foon as we -were through the narrows, and of making an ex- curfion to fee the funeral. I chofe rather to lofe that ceremony, than to leave the fhips in a fituation, in which I did not think them fafe. We continued to ply to windward, between the two tides, without either gaining or lofing an inch, till near high water, when, by a favourable Slant, we got into the Eadern tide's influence. We expected, there, to find the ebb to run drong to the Eadward in our -favour; but it proved fo in confiderable, that, at any other time, it would not have been noticed. This informed us, that moft of the water, which flows into the lagoon, comes from the North Wed, and returns the Same way. About five in the afternoon, finding that we could not get to Sea before it was dark, I came to an anchor, under THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 3$s under the Shore of Tongataboo, in forty-five fa- 1777. i thorns water; and about two cables length from v___£^£^j the reef, that runs along that fide of the ifland. The Difcovery dropped anchor under our dem; but before the anchor took hold, fhe drove off the bank, and did not recover it till after midnight. We remained at this flation, till eleven o'cJigk, Friday u. the next day, when we weighed, and plyed to the Eadward. But it was ten at night, before we weathered the Eaft end of the ifland, and were enabled to Stretch away for tvliddleburg, or Eooa (as^ijlfis called by the inhabitants^j^here we anchored, at eight o'clock the next morning, in forty fathoms Satur. 1*. water, over a bottom of fand, interfp&fed with coral rocks; the extremes of the ifland extending, from North, 400 Eaft, to South, 22° Weft; the high land of Eooa, South, 450 Eaft; and Tongataboo, from North, 700 Weft, to North, 190 Weft; diftant about half a mile from the fhore ; being nearly the fame place where I had my flation in 1773, and then named by me, Englijb Road. We had no fooner anchored, than Taoofa the Chief, and feveral other natives, vifited us on board, and Seemed to rejoice much at our arrival. This Taoofa * had been my Tayo, when I was here, during my laft voyage; confequently, we were not Strangers to each other. In a little time, I went afhore with him, in Search of frefh water; the procuring of which, was the chief object that brought me to Eooa. I had been told, at Tongataboo, that there, was here a ftream, running from the hills into the fea; but this was not the cafe now. I was firft conducted to a brackifh fpring, between low and high water mark, amongft rocks, in the cove * In the account of Captain Cook's former Voyage, he calls the only Chief he then met with, at this place, Tioony. See Vol. i. p. ipj A a 2 where 356 A V O Y A G E T O 1777. where we landed, and where no one would ever y^J^j have thought of looking for what we wanted. However, I believe, the water of this fpring might be good, were it poflible to take it up, before-tfic tide mixes with it. Finding that we did not like this, our friends took us a little way into the ifland ; where in a deep chafm, we found very good water j which, at the expence of fome time and trouble, might be conveyed down to the Shore, by means of fpouts or troughs, that could be made with plantain leaves, and the dem of the tree. But, rather than to undertake that tedious tafk, I reSolved to red contented wMfePthe Supply the Ships had got at Tongataboo. Before I returned on board, I fet on foot a trade for hogs and yams. Of the former, we could procure but few ; but, of the latt8S9%fis»ty. I put afhore, at this ifland, the ram and two ewes, of the Cape of Good Hope breed of Sheep; intruding them to the care of Taoofa, who feemed proud of his charge. It was fortunate, perhaps, that Mareewagee, to whom I had given «h%fn, as before-mentioned, flighted the prefent. Eooa, not having, as yet, got any dogs upon nt^feems to be a properer place than Tongataboo for the rearing of fheep. As we lay at anchor, this ifland bore a very different afpect from any we had lately feen, and formed a mod beautiful landfcape. It is higher than any we had paffed, fince leaving New Zealand (as Kao may judly be reckoned an immenfe rock), and from its top, which is almod flat, declines very gently toward the fea. As the other ifles, of this clufter, are level, the eye can difcover nothing but the trees that cover them ; but here the land, rifing gently upward, prefents us with an extenfive profpect, where groves of trees are only interfperfed at irregular didances, in beautiful THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 3S7 tiful diforder, and the red covered with grafs. 1777, Near the fhore, again, it isySsfmte fhaded with ^}]y- various trees, amongd which are the habitations /"""""" of the natives; and to the right of our dation, was one of the mod extenfive groves of cocoa- palms we had everCeenl;H The 13th, in the afternoon, a party of us made Sunday^. an excurfion to the highed part of the ifland, which was a little to the right of our fhips, in order to have a full view of the country. About half way up, we eroded a deep valle)', the bottom and fides of which, though compofed of hardly any thing but coral rock, were clothed with trees. We were now about two or three hundred feet above the le- ;ldf|F. the fea, and yet, even here, the coral was perforated into all the holes and inequalities, which ufually diverfify the Surface of this fubftance within the reach of the tide. Indeed, we found the Same coral, till we began to approach the Summits of the highed hills; and, it was remarkable, that thefe were chiefly compofed of a yel- lowifh, Soft, fand^atone. The foil, there, is, in general, a reddifh clay; which, in many places, Seemed to be very deep. On the mod elevated part of the whole ifland, we found a round plat- farm, or mount ofeearth, fupported by a wall of coral Stones; to bring which, to fuch a height, mud have cod much labour. Our guides told us, that this mount had been erected by order of their Chief; and that they, fometimes, met there to drink kava. They called it Etchee; by which name, an erection, which we had feen at Tongataboo, as already mentioned, was distinguished. Not many paces Srom it, was a Spring of excellent water; and, about a mile lower down, a running Stream, which, we were told, found its way to the fea, when the rains were copious. We alfo met with water, A VOYAGE T @ H ' water, in many little holes; and, no doubt, great plenty might be found, by digging. From the elevation, to which we had afcended, we had a full view of the whole ifland, except a part of the South point. The South Ead fide, from which the highed hills, we were now upon, are not far didant, rifes with very great inequalities, ^mediately from the fea; fo that the plains and meadows, of which there are here fome of great extent, lie all on the North Wed fide \ and, as they are adorned with tufts of trees, intermixed with plantations, they form a very beautiful land- fcape, in every point of view. While I was fur- veying this delightful profpect, I could not help flattering myfelf with the pleafing idea, that fome future navigator may, from the fame dation, be- "$ibld--thefe meadows flocked with cattle, brought to thefe iflands by the fhips of England; and that the completion of this fingle benevolent purpofe, independently of all other confiderations, would fufficiently mark to poderity, that our voyages had not been ufelefs to the general intereds of humanity. Befides the plants common on the other neighbouring iflands, we found, on the height, a Species of acrofticum, melaftoma, and fern tree; with a few other ferns and plants, not common lower down. Our guides informed us, that all, or mod of the land, on this ifland, belonged to the great Chiefs of Tongataboo; and that the inhabitants were only tenants, or vaffals, to them. Indeed, this feemed to be the cafe at all the other neighbouring ifles, except Annamooka, where there were fome Chiefs, who feemed to act with fome kind of independence. Omai, who was a great favourite with Feenou, and thefe people in general, was tempted with THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 359 with the offer of being made Chief of this ifland, 1777- if he wojafd have flaid amongft them $ and it is, JP|^ not clear to me, that he would not have been glad to (lay, if the Scheme had met with my approbation. I own, I did difapprove of it; but not becaufe I thought that Omai would do better for himfelf in his own njysive ifle. On returning from my country expedition, we were informed that a party of the natives had, in the circle where our people traded, Struck one of their own countrymen with a club, ;sphich laid bare, or, as others faid, fractured his Skull, and then broke his thigh with the Same ; when our men in- terpoSed. He had no Signs of life, when carried to a neighbouring houfe ; but afterward recovered a little. On my afking the reafon of fo fevere a treatment, ife were informed, that he had beenjgjfcy covered in ja.fijuajtio'n rather indelicate, with a wo- •jBpa who was taboo'd. We, however, understood, -that She was no otherwise taboo'd, than by belonging to another perSon, and rather Superior in rank to her gallant. From this circumftance, we had an opportunity of observing, how thefe people treat Such infidelities. But the female j porter has, by far, the fmaller fhare of punifhment for her mif- demeanor; as. they told us, tha^the would only receive a flight bea^i^g*, - The next morning, I planted a pine-apple, Mand.M and fowed the feeds of melons, and other vegetans in the Chief's plantation. I had fome encouragement, indeed, to flatter myfelf, that my endeavours oj>,--]|f«s, l$i<nd would not be frpsi^ lefs; for, this day, there was ferved up at my dinner, a difh of turnips, being the produce of the feeds I had left here during my laft voyage. I bad- j£° A VOYAGE TrO ; i777. I had fixed upon the 15th for Sailing, till Taoofa r July- preded me to (lay a day or two longer, to receive !^T^~^ a prefent he had prepared for me. This reafon, and the daily expectation of feeing fome of our friends from Tongataboo, induced me to defer my departure. Wedn. 16. Accordingly, the next day, I received the Chief's prefent; confifting of two fmall heaps of yams, ajft#fome fruit, which Seemed to be collected by a kind of contribution, as at the other ifles. On this occafion, moft of the people o^the ifland had af- fembled at the place ; and, as we had experienced on Such numerous meetings amongft their neigh- p|tfrs, gave us ri^t^a^irileTtrouble to prevent them from pillSfifig whatever they could lay their hands upon. We were entertainep* with cudgelling, wreftlingl^and boxing-matches ; and in the latter, both male and Semale combatants exhibited. It was intended to have finifhed the fhew with the bomai, or night-dance ; but an accident either put a total dop to it, or, at lead, prevented any of us from daying afhore to feV^hV'^3pe of my people, walking a very little way, was fulrlfunded by twenty or thirty of the natives, who knocked him down, and dripped him of every thing he had on '^ fY his back.''^Dn hearing of this, I immediately feiz- ed two canoes, and a large hog; and infided on Taoofa's caufing the clothes to be reftored, and on the offenders being delivered up to me. The Chief feemed much concerned at what had happened ; and forthwith took the neceffary fteps to Satisfy me. This affair fo alarmed the affembled people, that mod of them fled. However, when they found that f"took no other meafures to revenge the infult, they returned. It was not long before one of the offenders was delivered up to me, and a Shirt and a pair of trowfers reflored. The THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 361 The remainder of the dolen goods not coming in ,„7„ before night, I was under the neceflity of leaving July. them to go aboard; for the fea run fo high, that W * * was with the greated difficulty the boats could get out of the creek with day-light^Miuch lefs in the dark. The next morning, I landed again, having pro-Thurf. 17 vided myfelf with a prefent for Taoofa, in return for what he had given me. As it was early, these* were but few people at the landing-place, and thofe few not without their fears. But on my defiring Omai to affure them, that we meant no harm ; and, in confirmation of this affurance, having reftored the canoes, and releafed the offender, whom they had delivered up to me, they returned their ufual gaiety ; and, prefently, a large circle was formed, in which the Chief, and all the principal men of the ifland, took their places. The remainder of the clothes were now brought in; but, as they had been \mki off the man's back, by pieces, they were MM worth carrying on board. Taoofa, on receiviteg my prefent, (hared it with three or four other Chiefs, keeping only a fmall part for himfelf. This prefent exceeded their expectation fo greatly, that one of the Chiefs, a venerable old man, told me, that they did not deferve it, considering how little they had given to me, and the ill treatment one of my people had met with. I remained with them, till they had finifhed their bowl of kava I and having then paid for the hog, which 1 had taken the day before, returned on board, with Taoofa, and one of Poulaho's fervants, by whom 1 fent, as a parting mark of my edeem and regard for that Chief, a piece of bar iron; being as valuable a prefent as any I could make to htm. Soon I 362 AVOYAGETO . 1777. Soon after, we weighed, and with a light July- breeze at South Ead, dood out to fea ; and then ^-^v—"• Taoofa, and a few other natives, that were in the fhip, left us. On heaving up the anchor, we found, that the cable had differed considerably by the rocks; fo that the bottom, in this road, is not to be depended upon. Befides this, we experienced, that a prodigious fwell rolls in there from the South Weft. We had not been long under fail, before we obferved a failing canoe coming from Tongataboo, and entering the creek before which we had anchored. Some hours after, a fmall canoe, conducted by four men, came off to us. For, as we had but little wind, we were, ftill, at no great diftance from the land. Thefe men told us, that the failing canoe, which we had feen arrive from Tongataboo, had brought orders to the people of Eooa, to furnifh us with a certain number of hogs; and that, in two days, the king, and other Chiefs, would be with us. They, therefore, defired we would return to our former Station. There was no reafon to doubt the truth of what thefe men told us. Two of them had actually come from Tongataboo, in the failing canoe ; and they had no view in coming off to us, but to give this intelligence. However, as we were now clear of the land, it was not a fufficient inducement to bring me back; efpecially as we had, already, on board, a Slock of freSh provifions, fufficient, in all probability, to laft during our paffage to Otaheite. Befides Taoofa's prefent, we had got a good quantity of yams at Eooa, in exchange chiefly for fmall nails. Our fupply of hogs was alfo considerably increafed there; though, doubtlefs, we fhould have got many more, if the Chiefs of Tongataboo had been with us, whofe property they modly were. At THE PACIFIC OCEAN. At the approach of night, thefe men, finding that we would not return, left us; as alfo fome others, who had come off in two canoes, with a few cocoa-nuts, and Shaddocks, to exchange them for what they could get; the eagernefs of thefe people to get into their poffeffion more of our commodities, inducing them to follow the fhips out to fea, and to continue their intercourfe with us to the laft moment, 363 CHAP. 3^4 A VOYAGE TO CHAP. X. Advantages derived from vifit ing the Friendly Iflands. M Beft Articles for Traffic. — Refrefh- ments that may be procured. \— The Number of the Iflands, and their^ Names. — Keppel's and Bqfcawen's Iflands belong to them.—Account of Vavaoo—of Hamoa—of Feejee.—-Voyages of the Natives in their Canoes.—Difficulty of procuring exatl Information. — Perfons of the Inhabitants of both Sexes.—Their Colour.—Difeafes.— Their general Charatler. — Manner of wearing their Hair—of puntluring their Bodies.—Then- Clothing and Ornaments.—Perfonal Cleanlinefs. TH U S we took leave of the Friendly Iflands, and their inhabitants, after a Stay of between two and three months; during which time, we lived together in the moft cordial friendfhip. Some accidental differences, it is true, now and then happened, owing to their great propenfity to thieving | but, too often, encouraged by the negligence of our own people. But thefe differences were never attended with any fatal confequences; to prevent which, all my meafures were directed ; and, I believe, few, on boartl our fhips, left our friends here without fome regret. The time, employed amongd them, was not thrown away. We expended very little of our fea provifions; fub- fiding, in general, upon the" produce of the iflands, while we daid; and carrying away with us a quantity THE PACIFIC OCEAN. quantity of refrefhments fufficient to lad till our arrival at another dation, where we could depend a upon a frefh fupply. I was not forry, befides, to have had an opportunity of bettering the condition of thefe good people, by leaving the ufeful ani#aj^ before-mentioned, among them ; and, at the fame time, thofe defigned for Otaheite, received frefh firength in the padures of Tongataboo. Upon the whole, therefore, the advantages we received, by touching here, were? fiity. great; and I had the additional Satisfaction to reflect, that they were received, without retarding, one moment, the.pro- fecution of the great object of our voyage I the feafon, for proceeding to the North, being, as has been already obferved, lod, before I took the refolution of bearing away for thefe iflands. But, befides the immediate advantages, which both the nativesWr.the Friendly Iflands^, and our- Selves, received by this vifit, Suture navigators from Europe, if any Such fhould ever tread our fleps, will profit by the knowledge I acquired of the geography of this part of the.Pacific Ocean | and the more philofophical reader, who loves to view human nature in new fituations, and to Speculate on fingu- lar, but faithful reprefentations of the perfons, the cuftoms, the arts, the religion, the government, and the language of uncultivated man, in reaisis and frefh difcovered quarters of the globe, will, perhaps, find matter of amufement, if not of instruction, in the information which I have been en-, abled to convey to him, concerning the inhabitants of this Archipelago. I fhall fufpend my narrative, of the progrefs of the voyage, while I faithfully relate what I had opportunities of collecting on thefe feveral topics. We found, by our experience, that the bed articles for traffic, at thefe iflands, are iron tools in general. iO%ces and hatchets; nails, from the largeft i Spike 36s 366 A V O Y A G E T O 1777. Spike down to tenpenny ones; rafps; files; and yJulJ' knives, are much fought after. Red cloth; and I linen, both white and coloured; looking-glaffes, and beads, are alfo in edimation; but of the latter, thoSe that are blue, are preferred to all others; and white ones are thought the lead valuable. A String of large blue beads would, at any time, pur- trtpfoahog. But it mud be obferved, that fuch irtieles as are merely ornaments, may be highly efteemed atone time, and not fo at another. When we firft arrived at Annamooka, the people there would hardly take them in exchange even for fruit; but when Feenou came, this great man fet the fafhion, and brought them into vogue, till they rofe in their value to what I have juft mentioned. In return for the favourite commodities which I have enumerated, all tferefrefhments may be procured that the iflands produce. Thefe are, hogs, fowls, fifh, yams, bread-fruit, plantains, cocoa- nuts, fugar-cane, and, in general, every Such fupply as can be met with at Otaheite, or any of the Society Iflands, The yams of the Friendly iflands are excellent, and, when grown to perfection, keep very well at fea. But their pork, breadfruit, and plantains, though far from defpicable, are, neverthelefs, much inferior in quality to the fame articles at Otaheite, and in its neighbourhood. Good water, which fhips, on long voyages, dand fo much in need of, is fcarce at thefe iflands. It may be found, it is true, on them all; but, dill, either in too inconfiderable quantities, or in Situations too inconvenient, to Serve the purpoSes of navigators. However, as the iflands afford plenty of provifions, and particularly of cocoa-nuts, fhips may make a tolerable Shift with fuch water as is to be got; and if one is not over-nice, there wid be no want. While we lay at anchor, under Kotoo, on our return from Hapaee, fome people, from Kao, J THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 367 Kao, informed us, that there was a dream of wa* 1777. ter there, which, pouring down|»m the mountain,, Jul7j , raps, into the fea, on the South Wed fide of the'-""Y_,_^ ifland; that is, on the fide that faces Toofoa, another ifland remarkable for its height, as alfo for having a confiderable volcano in 11^ which, as has been already mentioned, ;feiurnt violently all the time that we were in its neighbourhood. It may be worth while for future navigators, to attend to this intelligence about the dfeam of water at Kao; efpeci- ;ajHy-?as we learned that there was anchorage on that part of the coad. The black done, of which the natives of the Friendly Ifjfgjds make their hatchets, and other tools, we were informed, is the production of Toofoa. Under the denominatiojjyc-f Friendly Iflands, we mud include, not only the group at Hapaee, which I vifited, but alfo all thofe iflands, that have been difcovered nearly under the fame meridian, to the North, as well as fome others that have never been feen, hitherto, by any European navigators ; but are undef^the dominion of Tongataboo, which, though not the largefl, is the capital, and feat of government. According to the information that we received there, this Archipelago is very extenfive. Above one hundred and fifty iflands were reckoned up to us by the natives, who made ufe of bits of leaves to afcertain their number; and Mr. Anderfon, with his ufual diligence, even procured all their names. Fifteen of them are faid to be high, or hilly, fuch as Toofoa, and Eooa -, and thirty-five of them large. Of thefe, only three were feen this voyage ; Hapaee (which is confidered by the natives as one ifland), Tongataboo, and Eooa: of the fize of the unexplored thirty-two, nothing more can be mentioned, but that they mud be all larger 3^8 A VOYAGE TO i777. larger than Annamooka; with thofe, from whom July- we had our information, ranked amongft the v~*~* fmaller ifles. Some, or indeed feveral, of this latter denomination, are mere fpots, without inhabitants. Sixty-one of thefe iflands have their proper places and names marked upon our chart of the Friendly Iflands, and upon the Sketch of the harbour of Tongataboo, to both which I » refer the reader. But it muft be left to future navigators, to introduce into the geography of this part of the South Pacific Ocean, the exact fituation and fize of near a hundred more iflands in this neighbourhood, which we had not an opportunity to explore; and whofe exiftence we only learnt from the testimony of our friends, as above-mentioned. On their authority, the following lift of them was made ; and it may ferve as a groundwork for farther inveftigation. Names of the Friendly 1/lands, and others, in that Neighbourhood, mentioned by the Inhabitants of Annamooka, Hapaee, and Tongataboo *. Komooefeeva, Noogoofaeeou, Novababoo, Kollalona, Koreemou, Golabbe, Felongaboonga, Failemaia, Vagaeetoo, Kovereetoa, Koweeka, Gowakka, Fonogooeatta, Konookoonama, Goofoo, Modooanoogoo Kooonoogoo, Mafanna, noogoo, Geenageena, Kolloooa, Tongooa, Kowourogoheefo, Tabanna, Koooa, Kottejeea, Motooha, Fonooa eeka, Kokabba, Looakabba, Vavaoo, Boloa, Toofanaetollo, * Thofe iflands, which the natives reprefented s ■e diftinguiihed in Italics, Koloa, ~» THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 369 Koloa, Fafeene, Taoonga, Kobakeemotoo, Kongahoonoho, Komalla, Konoababoo, Konnetalle, Komongoraffa, Kotoolooa, Kologobeele, Kollokolahee, Mallajee, Mallalahee, Gonoogoolaiee, Toonabai, Konnevy, Konnevao, Moggodoo, Looamoggo, Toofagga, Loogoobahanga, Taoola, Maneeneeta, Fonooaooma, Fonooonneonne, Wegaffa, Fooamotoo, Fonooalaiee, Tattahoi, Latte, Neuafo, Feejee, Oowaia, Kongaiaraboi, Kotoobooo, Komotte, Toofanaelaa, Kogoopoloo, Havaeeeeke, Tootooeela, Manooka, Le/hainga, Pappataia, Loubatta, Oho, Takounove, Kolaiva, Kofoona, Konnagillelaivoo, Kovooeea, Kongaireekee, Tafeedoowaia, Hamoa, Neeootabootaboo, Fotoona, Vytooboo, Lotooma, Toggelao, Talava. I have not the lead doubt, that Prince William's Iflands, difcovered, and fo named by Tafman, are included in the foregoing lid, "For while we lay at Hapaee, one of the natives told me, that^hree or four days fail from thence, to the North Weft, there was a clufter of fmall iflands, confiding of upward of forty. This fituation correfponds very well with that afiigned, in the accounts we have of TaSman's voyage, to his Prince William's Iflands *. We ity of thefe fmall iflands^ ;d with fands, fhoals, and ■ alfo called, in fome charts, Heemfltirk's Banks. See Palrymple's Collection of Voyages to the South' * Tafman faw eighteen every one of which \ Vol. I, Pacific A VOYAGE TO We have alSo very good authority to believe, that Keppel's and Bofcawen's Iflands, two of Captain- Wallis's difcoveries in 1765, are comprehended • in our lid ; and that they are not only well known to thefe people, but are under the fame 'Sovereign. The following information feemed to me decifive as to this. Upon my inquiring, one day, of Poulaho the king, in what manner the inhabitants of Tongataboo had acquired die knowledge of iron, and from what quarter they had procured a fmall iron tool, which I had feen amongd them, when I fird vifited their ifland, during my former voyage, he informed me, that they had received this iron from an ifland, which he called Neeootabootaboo. Carrying my inquiries further, I then defired to know, whether he had ever been informed, from whom the people of Neeootabootaboo had got it. I found him perfectly acquainted with its hidory. He faid, that one of thofe iflanders fold a club, for five nails, to a fhip which had touched there; and that thefe five nails afterward were Sent to Tongataboo. He added that this was the fird iron known amongft them ; So that, what TaSman left of that metal, muft have been worn out, and forgot long ago. I was very particular in my inquiries about the fituation, fize, and form of the ifland ; expreffing my defire to "know when this fhip had touched there ; how long fhe Staid; and whether any more were in company. The leading facts appeared to be frefh in his memory. He faid, that there was but one Ship; that fhe did not come to an anchor, but left the ifland after her boat had been on fhore. And from many circumdances, which he men- j tioned, it could not be many years fince this had and Campbell's edition of Har- happened. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 37 happened. According to his information, there 1777. are two iflands near each other, which he him- Ju!}% Self had been at. The one he defcribed as high, "v~*~ and peaked like Kao, and he called it Kootahee; the other, where the people of the fhip landed, called Neeootabootaboo, he reprefented as much lower. He added, that the natives of both are the fame fort of people with thofe of Tongataboo; built their canoes in the fame manner ; that their iflands had hogs and fowls; and, in general, the fame vegetable productions. The fhip, fo pointedly referred to, in this converfation, could be no other than the Dolphin; the only fingle fhip from Europe, as far as we have ever learned, that had touched, of late years, at any ifland in this part of the Pacific Ocean, prior to my former vifit to the Friendly Iflands*. But the mod confiderable iflands in this neighbourhood, that we now heard of (and we heard a great deal about them), are Hamoa, Vavaoo, and Feejee. Each of thefe was reprefented to us as larger than Tongataboo, No European, that we know of, has, as yja, feen any one of them. Tafman, indeed, lays down in his chart, an ifland nearly in the fituation where I fuppofe Vavaoo to be; that is, about the latitude of xg° -f% But, then, that * See Captain Wallis's Voyage, in Hawkefworth's Colleaion, Vol. i. p. 49a—494. Captain Wallis there calls both thefe iflands high ones. But the fuperior height of one of them may be in-. ferred, from his faying, that it appears like afttgar-loaf. This ftrongly marks its refemblance to Kao. From comparing Poulaho's intelligence to Captain Cook, with Captain Wallis's account, it feems to be paft all doubt, that Bofcawen's Ifland is our Kootahee, and Keppel's Ifland our Neeootabootaboo. The laft is one of the large iflands marked in the foregoing lift. The reader, who has been already apprized of the variations of our people in writing daw!! what the natives pronounced, will hardly M.oubt that Kottejeea and Kootahee are the fame. .-t- Neither Dalrymple nor Campbell, in their accounts of Taf- mari'? voyage, take any particular notice of his having feen fuch Bb ? an A VOYAGE TO that ifland is there marked as a very fmall one; whereas Vavaoo, according to the united teftimo- J ny of all our friends at Tongataboo, exceeds the fize of their own ifland, and has high mountains. I Should certainly have vifited it; and have accompanied Feenou from Hapaee, if he had not then difcouraged me, by reprefenting it to be very in- confiderable, and without any harbour. But Poulaho, the king, afterward affured fme, that it was a.large ifland; and that it not only produced every thing in common with Tongataboo, but had the peculiar advantage of poffeffing feveral dreams of frefh water, with as good a harbour as that which we found at his capital ifland. He offered to attend me, if I would vifit it; adding, that, if I did not find every thing agreeing with his reprefentati- on, I might kill him. I had not the lead doubt of the truth of his intelligence; and was Satisfied that Feenou, from fome intereded view, attempted to deceive me. Hamoa, which is alfo under the dominion of Tongataboo, lies two days fail North Wed from Vavaoo. It was defcribed to me, as the larged of all their iflands, as affording harbours and good water; and as producing, in abundance, every article of refreshment Sound at the places we vifited. Poulaho, himfelf, frequently refides there. It fhould Seem, that the people of this ifland are in high efti- mation at Tongataboo; for we were told that fome of the Songs and dances, with which we were entertained had been copied from theirs; and we faw fome houSes, Said to be built after their fafhion. Mr. Anderfon, always inquifitive about Such matters, an ifland, The chart here referred to, by Captain Cook, is, probably, Mr. Dalrymple's, in his Collection1 of Voyages, where Tafman's track is _ marked accurately ; and feveral very fmall fpots ef land are laid down in the fituation here mentioned. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 373 learnt the three following words of the dialect of 1777. Hamoa. ^July' Tamolao *, a chief man. *"* J Tamaety, a chief woman. Solle, a common man. Feejee, * In two or three preceding notes, extracts have been made from the Let tres Edifzanfes & Curieufes, as marking a ftrong re- femblance between fome of the cuftoms of the inhabitants of the Caroline Iflands, and thofe which Captain Cook defcribes as prevailing at an immenfe diftance in the iflands which he vifited in the South Pacific Ocean. Poffibly, however, the prefumption, arifing from this refemblance, that all thefe iflands were peopled by the fame nation, or tribe, may be refilled, under the plaufible pretence, that cuftoms very fimilar prevail amongft very diftant people, without inferring any other common fource, befides the general principles of human nature, the fame in all ages, and every part of the globe. The reader, perhaps, _ will not think this pretence applicable to the matter before us, if he attends to the following very obvious diftindlion: Thofe cuftoms which have their foundation in wants that are common to the whole human fpecies, and which are confined to the contrivance of means to relieve thofe wants, may well be fuppofed to bear a ftrong refemblance, without warranting the conclufion, that they who ufe them have copied each other, or have derived them from one common fource; human fagacity being the fame every where, and the means adapted to the relief of any particular natural want, efpecially in countries fimilarly uncultivated, being but few. Thus the moft diftant tribes, as widely feparated as Terra del Fuego is from the iflands Eaft of Kamtfchatka, may, both of them, produce their fire, by rubbing two flicks upon each other, without giving us the leaft foundation for fuppofing, that either of them imitated the other, or derived the invention from, a fource of inftruCtion common to both. But this feems not to be the cafe, with regard to thofe cuftoms to which no general principle of human nature has given birth, and which have their eftablifhment folely from the endlefs varieties of local whim, and national fafhion. Of this latter kind, thofe cuftoms obvioufly are, that belong both to the North, and to the South Pacific Iflands, from which, we would infer, that they were originally one nation; and the men of Mangeea, and the men of the New Philippines, who pay their refpefts to a perfon whom they mean, to honour, by rubbing his hand oveinheir faces, bid fair to have learnt their mode of falutation in the fame fchool. But if this obfervation fhould not have removed the doubts of the fceptical refiner, probably he will hardly venture to perfift in denying the identity of race, contended for in the prefent inftance, when he fhall obferve, that, to the proof drawn from affinity of cuftoms, sT we have it in our power to add that moft unexceptionable one, drawn from affinity of language. Tamoloa, we now know, is A VOYAGE TO Feejee, as we were told, lies three days Sail from Tongataboo, in the direction of North Weft by Weft. It was defcribed to us as a high, but very • fruitful ifland ; abounding with hogs, dogs, fowls, and all the kinds of fruit and roots that are found in any of the others; and as much larger than Tongataboo ; to the dominion of which, as was reprefented to us, it is not fubject, as the other iflands of this archipelago are. On the contrary, Feejee and Tongataboo frequently make war upon each other. And it appeared, from feveral circumftances, that the inhabitants of the latter are much afraid of this enemy. They ufed to exprefs their fenfe of their own inferiority to the Feejee men, by bending the body forward, and covering the face with their hands. And it is no wonder, that they fhould be under this dread ; for thofe of Feejee are formidable on account of the dexterity with which they ufe their bows and flings ; but much more fo, on account of the favage practice to which they are addicted, like thofe of New Zealand, of eating their enemies, whom they kill in battle. We were fatif- fied, that this was not a misrepresentation. For we met with Several Feejee people at Tongataboo', and, on inquiring of them, they did not deny the charge. Now, that I am again led to fpeak of cannibals, let me afk thofe who maintain, that the want of the word ufed at Hamoa, one of the Friendly Iflands, to fignify a Chief; and whoever looks into the Let tres Edifzantes & Curi- eufes, will fee, that this is the very name by which the inhabitants of the Caroline Iflands diftinguifh their principal men. We have in two preceding notes, inferted paffages from Father Can- tova's account of them, where their Tamoles are fpoken of; and he repeats the word at leaft a dozen times, in the eourfe of a few pages. But I cannot avoid transcribing, from him, the following very decifive teftimony, which renders any other quotation fuperfiuous. " L'autoritie du Gouvernement fe partage entre " plufieurs families nobles, dont les Chefs s'appellent Tamoles. " II y a outre cela, dans chaque province, un principale Tamole, " auquel tous les autres font foumis." Letlres Ediftantes & Curieufes, Tom. xv. p. 31s. food THE PACIFIC OCEAN; food firft brings men to feed on human fleSh, What is it that induceth the Feejee people to keep it up,> in the midft of plenty ? This p*l|tice is detefted, very much, by thofe of Tongataboo, who cultivate the friendfhip of their favage neighbours of Feejee, apparently out of fear jj though they fome» times venture to fkirmifh with them, on their own ground ; and carry off red feathers, as their booty, which are in great plenty there, and, as?' has been frequently mentioned, are in great eftimiitK&l amongft our Friendly tflanders. When the two iflands are at peace, the intercourfe between them feems to be pretty frequent; though they have, doubtlefs, been but lately known to each other; or we may Suppofe, that Tongataboo, and its adjoining iflands, would have befen Supplied, before this, with a breed of dogs, which abound at Feejee, and had not been introduced at Tongataboo, fo late as J773, when I firft vifited it. The natives of Feejee, whom we met with here, were of a colour that was a full Shade darker, than that of the inhabitants of the Friendly Iflands in general. One of them had his left ear flit, and the lobe Was fo diftended, that it almoft reached his Shoulder; which fingula- rity I had met with at other iflands of the South Sea, during my fecond voyage, It appeared to me, that the Feejee men, whom We now faw, were much refpected here ; not only, perhaps, from the power, and cruel manner of their nation's going t© war, but, alfo, from their ingenuity. For they Seem to excel the inhabitants of Tongataboo in that refpect, if we might judge from feveral fpecimens of their fkill in workmanfhip, which we faw ; fuch as clubs and fpears, which were carved in a very mafterly manner; cloth beautifully chequered ; variegated mats; earthen pots; and fome other articles; all which had a eaft of Superiority in the execution. I have 376 A VOYAGE TO I have mentioned, that Feejee lies three days fail from Tongataboo, becauSe thefe people have no J other method of meafuring the diftance from ifland to ifland, but by expreffing the time required to make the voyage, in one of their canoes. In order to afcertain this, with fome precifion, or, at leaft, to form fome judgment, how far thefe canoes can fail, in a moderate gale, in any given time, I wen on board one of them, when under fail, and, by feveral trials with the log, found that She went feven knots, or miles, in an hour, clofe hauled, in a gentle gale. From this I judge, that they will fail, on a medium, with fuch breezes as generally blow in their fea, about feven or eight miles in an hour. But the length of each day is not to be reckoned at twenty-four hours. For when they fpoke of one day's fail, they mean no more than from the morning to the evening of the fame day; that is, ten or twelve hours at moft. And two days fail, with them, Signifies from the morning of the firft day, to the evening of the fecond; and fo for any other number of days. In thefe navigations, the fun is their guide by day, and the dars by night. When thefe are obfcured, they have recourfe to the points from whence the winds and the waves came upon the veffel. If, during the obfcuration, both the wind and the waves Should Shift (which, within the limits of the trade-wind, feldom happens at any other time), they are then bewildered, frequently mifs their intended port, and are never heard of more. The hidory of Omai's countrymen, who were driven to Wateeoo, leads us to infer, that thofe not heard of, are not always lod. Of all the harbours and anchoring places I have met with, amongd thefe iflands, that of Tongataboo is, by far, the bed; not only on account of THE P A C I F 1® OCEAN. 377 of its great fecurity, but of its capacity* and of 1777. the goodnefs of its bottom. The rifk that we ran, Ju'y- in entering it from the North, ought to be a fuffi-v" *""* cient caution to every future Commander, not to attempt that paffage again with a fhip of burden -, fince the other, by which we left it, is fo much more eafy and fafe. To fail into it, by this Eaft- ern channel, deer in for the North Ead point of the ifland, and keep along the North Shore, with the fmall ifles on your darboard, till you are the length of the Ead point of the entrance into the lagoon; then edge over for the reef of the fmall ifles ; and, on following its direction, it will conduct you through between Makkahaaa and Monoo- afai, or the fourth and fifth ifles, which you will perceive to lie off the Weft point of the lagoon. Or you may go between the third and fourth iflands, that is, between Pangimodoo and Monooafai; but this channel is much narrower than the other. There runs a very ftrong tide in both. The flood, as I have obferved .before, comes in from the North Weft, and the ebb returns the fame way; but I Shall fpeak of the tides in another place. As foon as you are through either of thefe channels, haul i#Ja#>;the fhore of Tongataboo, and anchor between it and Pangimodoo, before a creek leading into the lagoon; into which boats can go at half flood. Although Tongataboo has the beft harbour, Annamooka furnifhes the beft water; and yet, it cannot be called good. However, by digging holes near the fide of the pond, we can get what may be called tolerable. This ifland, too, is the beft fituated for drawing refreshments from all the others, as being nearly in the centre of the whole group. Befides the road in which we anchored, and the harbour within the South Weft point, there is a creek in the reef, before the Eaftern fandy cove, 378 AVOYAGETO 1777. on the North fide of the ifland, in which two of v_J"1y- three fhips may lie very Securely, by mooring head and Stern, with their anchors or moorings faft to the rocks. I have already defcribed the Hapaee iflands j and fhall only add to that description, by mention-- ing, that they extend South Weft by South, and North Eaft by North, about nineteen miles. The North end lies in the latitude of 190 39' South, and 33' of longitude to the Eaft of Annamooka. Between them, are a great many fmall iflands, fand- banks, and breakers; fo that the fafeft way to arrive at Hapaee, is either by the eourfe I held, or round by the North ; according to the fituation of the fhip bound thither. Lefooga, off which we anchoredj is the moft fertile ifle of thofe that are called Hapaee; and, consequently, is the beft inhabited. There is anchorage along the North Weft fide of this ifland; but it will be neceffary to examine the ground well before you moor. For, although the lead may bring up fine fand, there are, neverthelefs, fome Sharp coral rocks, that would foon deftroy the cables. They who want a more particular defcriptiont of the Friendly Iflands, muft have recourfe to the chart that we conftructed. There, every thing is delineated with as much accuracy as circumftances would permit, Recourfe muft, alfo, be had, to the fame chart, for the better tracing the feveral Stations of the fhips, and their route from the one ifland to the other. To have fwelled my journal with a minute account of bearings, tack- ings, and the like, would neither have been entertaining nor instructive. What has been here omitted, concerning the geography of thefe iflands, will be found in the narrative THE PACIFIC OCEAN. rative of my laft voyage*. To that narrative I muft alfo refer m for fuch particulars concerning the inhabitants, their manners, and arts, as I had obferved then, and about which I faw no reafon to change my judgment. At prefent, I fhall confine myfelf to fuch interefting particulars, as either were not mentioned in that narrative, or wer<$-|fifP' perfectly and incorrectly reprefented there; and to fuch as may ferve to explain fome paffages in the foregoing account of our* tranfactions,:^ith the natives. It may, indeed, be expected, that, after fpend- ing between two and three months amongft them, I Should be enabled to clear up every difficulty, and to give a tolerably fatisfactory account of theb*eQ& toms, opinions, and inditutions, both civil and religious; efpecially as we had a perfon on board, who might be fuppofed qualified to act the pai^'of. an interpreter, by understanding their language and ours. But poor Omai was very deficient. For unlefs the object or thing we wanted to inquire about, was actually before us, we found it difficult to gain a tolerable knowledge of it, from information only, without falling into a hundred midakes; and to fuch midakes Omai was more liable tha&Pwe were. For, having no curiofity, he never gave himfelf the trouble to make remarks for himfelf; and, when he was difpofed to explain matters to us, his ideas appeared to be fo limited, and, perhaps, fo different from ours, that his accounts were often fo confuted, as to perplex, in- dead of indructing us. Add to this, that it was very rare that we found, amongd the natives, a perSon, who united the ability and the inclination to give us the information we wanted ; and, we found, * Cook's Vo; is, Vol. i. ,13. -f-Ibid. p. 213. 225. AVOYAGE TO that moft of them hated to be troubled with what they, probably, thought idle quedions. Our Situation at Tongataboo, where we remained the longed, was, likewife, unfavourable. It was in a part of the country, where there were few inhabitants, except fifhers. It was always holiday with our visiters, as well as with thofe we vifited; fo that we had but few opportunities of obferving, what was really the domedic way of living of the natives. Under theSe disadvantages, it is not furprifing, that we fhould not be able to bring away with us Satisfactory accounts of many things ; but Some of us endeavoured to remedy thofe disadvantages, by diligent obfervation; and I am indebted to Mr. Anderfon, for a confiderable fhare of what follows, in tMfeand in the following chapter. In other matters, I have only expreffed, nearly in his words, remarks that coincided with mine; but what relates to the religion and language of tlfffe people, is entirely his own. The natives of the Friendly Iflands feldom exceed the common flature (though we have measured Some, who were above fix feet) ; but are very ftrong and well made; efpecially as to their limbs. They are generally broad about the Shoulders; and tMugh the muScular difpofition of the men, which feems a confequence of much action, rather conveys the appearance of Strength than of beauty, there are feveral to be Seen, who are really handSome. Their features are very various \ infomuch, that it is Scarcely poffible to fix on any general likeneSs, by which to characterize them, unlefs it be a full- nefs at the point of the note, which is very common. But, on the other hand, we met with hundreds of truly European faces, and many genuine Roman nofes, amongft them. Their eyes and teeth' are good; but the laft neither fo remarkably white, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. nor fo well fet as is often found amongft Indian nations; though, to balance that, few of them have any uncommon thicknefs about the lips, a defect as frequent as the other perfection. The women are not fo much distinguished from the men by their features as by their general form, which is, for the moft part, destitute of that ftrong flefhy firmnefs that appears in the latter. Though the features of fome are fo delicate, as not only to be a true index of their fex, but to lay claim to a confiderable fhare of beauty and expreffion, the rule is, by no means, fo general as in many other countries. But, at the fame time, this is frequently the mod exceptionable part; for the bodies and limbs of mod of the females are well proportioned ; and fome, abfolutely, perfect models of a beautiful figure. But the mod remarkable didinction in the women, is the uncommon fmallnefs and delicacy of their fingers, which may be put in competition with the fined in Europe. The general colour is a cad deeper than the copper brown ; but feveral of the men and women have a true olive complexion; and fome of the lad are even a great deal fairer; which is probably the effect of being lefs expofed to the fun ; as a tendency to corpulence, in a few of the principal people, feems to be the confequence of a more indolent life. It is alfo amongd the lad, that a foft clear Skin is mod Srequently obServed. Amongd the bulk of the people, the Skin is, more commonly, of a dull hue, with Some degree of roughnefs, eSpecially the parts that are not covered ; which, perhaps, may be occafioned by Some cutaneous diSeaSe. We Saw a man and boy at Hapaee, and a child at Annamooka, perfectly white. Such have been found amongd all black nations; but, 38* A V O Y A G E T O 1777. but, I apprehend, that their colour is rather a dif- juiy. cafC) than a natural phaenomenon. %-'^v~m-f There are, neverthelefs, upon the whole, few natural defects or deformities to be found amongft them ; though we faw two or three with their feet bent inward; and fome afflicted with a fort of blindnefs, occafioned by a d'feafe of the cornea. Neither are they exempt from fome other dif- eafes. The mod common of which is the tetter, or ring-worm, that feems to affect almod one half of them, and leaves whitifh Serpentine marks, every where, behind it. But this is of lefs confequence than another difeafe,^hich is very frequent, and appears on every part of the body, in large broad ulcers with thick white edges, discharging a thin, clear matter; fome of which had a very virulent appearance, particularly thofe on the face, which were fhocking to look at. And yet we met with fome who feemed to be cured of it, and others in a fair way of being cured ; but this was nojt Effected without the lofs of the nofe, or of the bed part of it. As we know for a certainty * (and the fact is acknowledged by themfelves), that the people of thefe iflands were fubject to this loathfome difeafe before the Englifh fird vifited them, notwithstanding the Similarity of ig$gptams, it cannot be the effect of the venereal contagion ; unlefs we adopt a fuppofition, which I could with had fufficient foundation in truth, that the venereal diforder was not introduced here from Europe, by our fhips in 1773. It, affuredly, was now found to exifl amongft them ; Sor we had not been long there, before fome of our people received I *See Vol. ii.p. 20. c a particular account of difeafe, at Annamooka, in Cook's Voyage, where he gives g with a perfon afflifted with, this landing there iu 1773.. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 383. the infection ; and I had the mortification to learn 1777. from thence, that all the care I took, when I firft Jul>^, vifited thefe iflands, to prevent this dreadful difeafev * " from being communicated to their inhabitants, had proved ineffectual. What is extraordinary, they do not feem to regard it much; and as we Saw few Signs of its destroying effects, probably the climate, and the way of living of thefe people, greatly abate its virulence. There are two other difeafes frequent amongft them ; one of which is an indolent firm fwelling, which affects the legs and arms, and increafes them to an extraordinary fize in their whole length. TK other is a tumour of the fame fort, in the tefticles, which fometimes exceed the fize of the two fifts. But, in other reSpects, they may be confidered as uncommonly healthy ; not a fingle perSon having been Seen, during our flay, confined to the houfe, by fickneSs of any kind. On the contrary, their Strength and activity are, every way, anSwerable to their mufcular appearance ; and they exert both, in their ufual employment, and in their diverfions, in Such a manner, that there can be no doubt of their being, as yet, Jittle debilitated by the numerous difeafes that are the confequence of indolence, and an unnatural method of life. The graceful air and firm Step with which thefe people walk, are not the leaft obvious proof of their perfonal accomplifhments. They confider this as a thing fo natural, or fo neceffary to be acquired, that nothing ufed to excite their laughter Sooner, than to fee us frequently ftumbling upon the roots of trees, or other inequalities of the ground. Their countenances very remarkably exprefs the abundant mildnefs, or good nature, which ihey poffefs; and are entirely free from that Savage 1 . keenn.Ss 384 AVOYAGETO 1777. keenneSs which marks nations in a barbarous State. . JuI7- One would, indeed, be apt to fancy, that they had '*'"~v~*w'been bred up under the fevereft restrictions, to acquire an aSpect So Settled, and Such a command of their paffions, as well as SteadineSs in conduct. But they are, at the Same time, frank, cheerful, and good-humoured; though, fometimes, in the prefence of their Chiefs, they put on a degree of gravity, and fuch a ferious air as becomes fliff and awkward, and has an appearance of referve. Their peaceable difpofition is fufficiently evinced, from the friendly reception all drangers have met with, who have vifited them, Indead of offering to attack them openly, or clandedinely, as has been the cafe with mod of the inhabitants of thefe Seas, they have never appeared, in the Small- ed degree, hodile; but, on the contrary, like the mod civilized people, have courted an intercourse with their vifiters, by bartering, which is the only medium that unites all nations in a fort of friendship. They underdand barter (which they call fukkatou) fo perfectly, that, at fird, we imagined they might have acquired this knowledge of it by commercial intercourfe with the neighbouring iflands; but we were afterward affured, that they had little or no traffic, except with Feejee, from which they get the red feathers, and the few other articles, mentioned before. Perhaps, no nation in the world traffic with more honedy and lefs didrud. We could always fafely permit them- to examine our goods, and to hand them about, one to another ; and they put the fame confidence in us. If either party repented of the bargain, the goods were re-exchanged with mutual content and good- humour. Upon the whole, they feem poffeffed of many of the mod excellent qualities that adorn the human mind; fuch as indudry, ingenuity, per- feverance, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 385 feverance, affability, and, perhaps, other virtues 1777. .whfftth our fhort day with them might prevent our^J^'y* obServing. The only defect Sullying their character, that we know of, is a propensity to thieving; to which, we found, thofe of all ages, and both fexes, addicted ; and to an uncommon degree. It fhould, however, be confidered, that this exceptionable part of their conduct feemed to exid merely with refpect to us; for, in their general intercourfe with one another, I had reafon to be of opinion, that thefts do not happen more frequently (perhaps lefs fo) than in other countries, the difhoneft practices of whcfe worthlefs individuals are not Sup- pofed to authorize any indiscriminate cenfure on the whole body of the people. Great allowances Should be made fo*i«the foibles of thefe poor natives of the Pacific Ocean, whofe minds we overpowered with the glare of objects, equally new to them, as they were captivating. • Stealing, amongd the civilized and enlightened nations of the world, may well be confidered as dewting a character deeply ftained with moral turpitude, with avarice unre- drained by the known rules of right, and with profligacy producing extreme indigence, and neglecting the means of relieving it. But at the Friendly and other iflands^which we vifited, the thefts, So frequently committed by the natives, of what we had brought along with us, may be fairly traced to lefs culpable motives. They feemed to arife, Solely, from an intenSe curiofity or defire to poffefs fomething which they had not been accuftomed to before, and belonging to a Sort of people fo different from themfelves. And, perhaps, if it were poflible, that a fet of beings, feemingly as Superior in our judgment, as we are in theirs, fhould appear amongft us, it might be doubted, whether our natural regard tojuftice would be able to reftrain Vol. I. Cc many 386 AVOYAGETO 1777, many from falling into the fame error. That I Ju'y- have afligned the true motive for their propenfity to ^""■v""—' this practice, appears from their flealing every thing indiscriminately at firft fight, before they could have the leaft conception of converting their prize to any one ufeful purpofe. But, I believe, with us, no perfon would forfeit his reputation, or expofe himfelf to punifhment, without knowing, before hand, how to employ the ftolen goods. Upon the whole, the pilfering difpofition of thefe iflanders, - though certainly difagreeable and trou- blefome to Strangers, was the means of affording us fome information as to the quicknefs of their intellects. For their fmall thefts were committed with much dexterity; and thofe of greater confequence with a plan or fcheme fuited to the importance of the objects. An extraordinary inftance of the laft fort, their attempts to carry away one of the Difcovery's anchors, at mid-day, has been already related. Tneir hair is, in general, Straight, thick, and ftrong; though a few have it bufhy or frizzled. The natural colour, I believe, almoft without exception, is black; but the greateft part of the men, and fome of the women, have it Stained of a brown, or purple colour; and a Tew of an orange eaft. The firft colour is produced by applying a fort of plafter of burnt coral, mixed with water; the Second, by the raSpings of a reddifh wood, which is made-up with water into a poultice, and laid over the hair; and the third is, I believe, the effect of turmeric root. When I firft vifited thefe iflands, I thought it had been an univerfal cuftom for both men and women to wear the hair fhort; but, during our prefent longer Slay, we faw a great many exceptions. Indeed, they are fo whimfical in,their fashions THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 38? Shions of wearing it, that it is hard to tell which 177?. is moft in vogue. Some have it cut off one fide oft_J^"ly'_, the head, while that on the other fide remains long; fome have only a [portion of it cut Short, or, perhaps, Shaved; others have it entirely cut off, except a fingle lock, which is left commonly5 on one fide; or, it is fuffered to grow to its full length, without any of thefe mutilations. The women, in general, wear it fhort. The men have their beards cut Short; and both men wd women Strip the hair Srom their" ajph-pits. The operation by which this is performed has been already de- Scribed. The men are Stained from about the middle of the belly, to about half way down the thighs, with a deep blilPcolour. This is done with a flat bone instrument, cut full of fine teeth, which, being dipj^P in the Staining mixture, prepared from the jui0 of the dooe dooe, is Struck in- t® -$sh 8$iW w^th a bit of Stick; and, by that means, indelible marks are made. In this manner they trace lines and figures, which, in fome, are very- elegant, both from the variety, and from the arrangement. The women have only a few fmall lines or fpots, thus imprinted, on the infide of : their hands. Their kings, as a mark of distinction, are exempted from this cuftom, as'llb from inflicting on themlelves any of thofe blogdy marks of mourning, which fhall be mentioned in anolpief;f place. The men are all circumcifed, or rather fupercifed; as the operation confifts in cutting off only a Small piece of the forefkin, at the upper part; which, by : that means, is rendered incapable, ever after, of covering theglans. This is all they aim at; as they Say, the operation is practifed from a notion of cleanlinefs. The drefs of both men and women is the Same;' and confifts of a piece of cloth or matting (but C c 2 moftly 388 A V O Y A G E T O 1777. moftly the former), about two yards wide, and two Jul>- and a half long; at leaft, fo long as to go once v—v~«-' and a half round, the waift, to which it is confined by a girdle or cord. It is double before, and hangs down, like a petticoat, as low as the middle of the leg. The upper part of the garment, above the girdle, is plaited into feveral folds; fo that, when unfolded, there is cloth fufficient to draw up and wrap round the Shoulders ; which is very Seldom done. This, as to Sorm, is the general dreSs; but large pieces of cloth, and fine matting, are worn only by the fuperior people. The inferior fort are Satisfied with fmall pieces; and, very often, wear nothing but a covering made of leaves of plants, or the maro, which is a narrow piece of cloth, or matting, like a fafh. This they pafs between the thighs, and wrap round the waift; but the ufe of it is chiefly confined to the men. In their great baivas, or entertainments, they have various dreffes made for the purpofe; but the form is always the fame ; and the richeft dreffes are covered, more or lefs, with red feathers. On what particular occafion their Chiefs wear their large red feather-caps, I could not learn. Both men and women Sometimes Shade their faces from the fun with little bonnets, made of various materials. As the clothing, fo are the ornaments, worn by thofe of both fexes, the fame. The moft common of thefe are necklaces, made of the fruit of the pandanus, and various fweet-fmelling flowers, which go under the general name of kahulla. Others are compofed of fmall Shells, the wing and leg-bones of birds, Shark's teeth, and other things; all which hang looSe upon the breaft. In the fame manner, they often wear a mother-of-pearl fhell, neatly po- lifhed, or a ring of the Same Subftance carved, on the -•-H* THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 389 the upper part of the arm ; rings of tortoife-Shell 1777. on the fingers; and a number of thefe, joined to- %jJSLj gether, as bracelets on the wrifts. The lobes of the ears (though, moft frequently, only one) are perSorated with two holes, in which they wear cylindrical bits of ivory, about three inches long, introduced at one hole, and brought out of the other ; or bits of reed of the Same.fize, filled with a yellow pigment. This Seems to be a fine powder of turmeric, with which the women rub themfelves all over, il the fame manner as our ladies ufe their dry rouge upon the cheeks. Nothing appears to give them greater pleafure than perfonal cleanlinefs; to produce witch, they frequently bathe in the ponds, which Seem to Serve no other purpofe *. Though the water in moft of them Stinks intolerably, they prefer them to the fea; and they are fo fenfible that fait water hurts ihWfkin, that, when neceflity obliges them to bathe in the Sea, they commonly*Iiave Some cocoa- nut Shells, filled with freSh water, poured over them, to wafh it off. They are irajAfderately fond of cocoa-nut oil for the fame reafon ; a great quantity of which they not only pour upon their head and Shoulders, but rub the body jall O^er^ briSkly, with a fmaller quantity. And none but thofe who have feen this practice, can eafily con- e^iye,, how the appea ranee, ;©f the Skin is improved by it. This oil, however, is not to be procured by every one ; and the inferior fort of people, doubt- lefs, appear lefs Smooth for want of it. * So at the Caroline Iflands. " Ils font accoutemes a fe baig- H ner trois fois, le jour, le matin, a midi, & fur le foir." Lettres Edifiantes & Curieufes, Tom. xv. p. 314, A VOYAGE CHAP. XI. Employments of the Women, at the Friendly I/lands. >—Of the Men. — Agriculture. — Conftrutlion of their Houfes. — Their working Tools. — Cordage, and fifhing Implements.—Mufical Inftruments.—» Weapons.—Food, and Cookery.—Amufements.—• Marriage. — Mourning Ceremonies for the Dead. —Their Divinities.—Notions about the Soul, and a future State.—Their places of Worfhip.—Government.—Manner of paying Obeifance to the King.—Account of the Royal Family.—Remarks on their Language, and a Specimen of it.—Nautical, and other Obfervations. THEIR domestic life is of that middle kind, neither fo laborious as to be difagreeable, nor fo vacant as to Suffer them to degenerate into indolence. Nature has done fo much for their country, that the firft can hardly occur, and their difpofition feems to be a pretty good bar to the laft. By this happy combination of circumftances, their neceffary labour feems to yield, in its turn, to their recreations, in fuch a manner, that the latter are never interrupted by the thoughts of being obliged to recur to the former, till fatiety makes them wifh for fuch a tranfition. The employment of the women is of the eafy kind, and, for the mod part, fuch as may be executed in the houfe. The manufacturing their cloth, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. is wholly configned to their care. Having already defcribed the procefs, I fhall only add, that they have this cloth of different degrees of finenefs. The coarfer fort, of which they make very large pieces, does not receive the impreflion of any pattern. Of the finer fort, they have fome that is driped, and chequered, and of other patterns differently coloured. But how thefe colours are laid on, I cannot fay, as I never faw any of this fort made. The cloth, in general, will refid water, for fome time; but that which has the drongeft glaze will refill longeft. The manufactpiiae next in confequence, and alfo within the department pfithe women, is that of their mats, whidbsxcel every thing I have feen at any other place, both as to their texture "and their beauty. In particular, many of them are fo fuperior to thofe made at Otaheite, that they are not a bad article to carry thither, by way of trade. Of thefe mats, they have feven or eight different forts, for the purpofes of wearing or fleeping upon ; and many are merely ornamental. The laft are chiefly mfde from the tough, membraneous part of tl$#f ftc-ck of the plantain tree; thofe that they wear, from the pandanus, cultivated for that purpofe, and never differed to fhoot into a trunk; and the coarfer fort, which they fleep upon, from a plant called evarra. There are many other articles of lefs note, that employi'^he fpare time of their females j as combs, of.s#lich they make vad numbers; and little bafkets made of the fame fubdance as the mats, and others of the fibrous cocoa-nut hufk, either plain, or interwoven with Small beads; but all, finifhed with fuch neatnefs and tade in the difpofition of the various parts,' that a dranger cannot help admiring their afliduity and dexterity. The 7 A VOYAGE TO The province allotted to the men is, as might be expected, far more laborious and extenfive than that of the women. Agriculture, architecture, boat-building, fifhing, and other things that relate to navigation, are the objects of their care*. Cultivated roots and fruits being their principal Support, this requires their conftant attention to agriculture, which they purSue very diligently, and feem to have brought almoft to as great perfection as circumftances will permit. The large extent of the plantain fields has been taken notice of already ; and the fame may be Said of the yams; thefe two together, being, at leaft, as ten to one, with refpect to all the other articles. In planting both thefe, they dig Small holes for their reception, and, afterward, root up the furrounding graSs, which, in this hot country, is quickly deprived of its vegetating power, and foon rotting, becomes a good manure. The indruments they ufe for this purpofe, which they call booo, are nothing more than pickets or dakes of different lengths, according to the depth they have to dig. Thefe are flattened and Sharpened to an edge at one end; and the largefl have a fhort piece fixed tranfverfely, for preffing it into the ground with the foot. With thefe, though they are not more than from two to four inches broad, they dig and plant ground of many acres in extent. In planting the plantains and yams, they obferve fo much exactnefs, that, whichever way you look, the rows prefent themfelves regular and complete. * How remarkably does Captain Cook's account of the em- ployments of the women and men here, agree with Father Can-r Sova's, of the Caroline Ifknders ?—" La princlpale occupation " des hommes, eft de conftruire des barques, de pecher, & d« «' cultiver la terre. L'affaire des femmes eft de faire la cuifine, "i & de mettre en oeuvre un efpece de plarite fauvage, & un arbre, " —pour en faire de la toile." Retires Edifiantes fi? Curieufes, Tom. xv. p. 313. The THE PACIFIC OCEAN. The cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees are fcattered about, without any order, and feem to give them no trouble, after they have attained a certain height. The fame may be faid of another large tree, which produces great numbers of a large* roundifh, compreffed nut, called eeefee; and of a fmaller tree, that bears a rounded oval nut, two inches long, with two or three triangular kernels, tough and infipid, called mabba, moft^frequently planted near their houSes. The kappe is, commonly, regularly planted, and in pretty large Spots; but the mawhaha is inter- fperSed amongd other things, as the jeejee and yams are; the lad of which, I have frequently* Seen, in the interfpaces of the plantain trees, at their common didance. Sugar-cane is commonly in Small Spots, crowded clofely together; and the mulberry, of which the cloth is made, though without order, has fufficient room allowed for it, and is kept very clean. The only other plant, that they cultivate for their manufactures, is the panda- nus; which is generally planted in a row, clofe together, at the fides of the other fields; and they confider it as a thing fo diflinct in this date, that they have a different name for it; which Shews, that they are very Senfible of the great changes brought about by cultivation. It is remarkable, that theSe people, who, in many things, fhew much tade and ingenuity, fhould fnew little of either in building their houfes; though the defect is rather in the delign, than in the execution. Thofe of the lower people are poor huts, Scarcely Sufficient to defend them from the weather, and very fmall. ThoSe of the better Sort, are larger and more comfortable; but not what one might ex|||et. The dimenfions of one of a middling fize, are about thirty feet jfcig, twenty broad, and twelve high. Their houfe is, properly Speaking, A VOYAGE TO ing, a thatched roof or Shed, Supported bf pods and rafters, diSpofed in a very judicious manner. The floor is raifed with earth Smoothed, and covered with drong, thick matting, and kept very clean. The mod of them are clofed on the weather fide (and Some more than two-thirds round), with drong mats, or with branches of the cocoa- nut tree, plaited or woven into each other. Thefe they fix up edgewife, reaching from the eaves to the ground ; and thus they anfwer the purpofe of a wall. A thick, ftrong mat, about two and one half or three feet broad, bent into the form of a fe- micircle, and fet upon its edge, with the ends touching the fide of the houfe, in fhape refembling-the fender of a fire hearth, inclofes a Space for the mafter and midrefs of the family to Sleep in. The lady, indeed, Spends mod of her time, during the day, within it. The red of the family Sleep upon the floor, wherever they pleafe to lie down ; the unmarried men and women apart from each other. Or, if the family be large, there are fmall huts adjoining, to which the fervants retire in the night; fo that privacy is as much obferved here, as one could expect. They have mats made on purpofe for fleep- ing on; and the clothes that they wear in the day, ferve for their covering in the night. Their whole furniture confifts of a bowl or two, in which they make kava; a few gourds; cocoa nut Shells; Some fmall wooden dools, which ferve them for pillows; and, perhaps, a large dool for the Chief, or Mader, of the family to fit upon. The only probable reafon I can affign for their neglect of ornamental architecture, in the conftruc- tion 6f their houfes, is their being fond of livingmuch in the open air. Indeed, they feem to confider their houfes,.within which they feldom eat, as of little ufe but to fleep in, and to retire to in bad weather. And the lower fort of people, who Spend a great part THE PACIFIC OCEAN. part of their time in cloSe attendance upon the Chiefs, can have little ufe for their own houfes, but in the lad cafe. They make amends for the defects of theifc houfes, by their great attention to, and dexterity in, naval architecture, if I may be allowed to give it that name. But I refer to the narrative of my lad voyage, for an account of their canoes, and their manner of building and navigating them.* The only tools which they ufe, to conflruct thefe boats, are hatchets, or rather thick adzes, oS a Smooth black done that abounds at Toofoa; augres, made of fhark's teeth, fixed on fmall handles; and rafps, of a rough fkin of a fifh, fadened on flat pieces of wood, thinner on one fide, which alfo have handles. The labour and time employed in finishing their canoes, which are the mod perfect'of their mechanical productions, will account for their being very careful of them. For they are built and preferved under fheds; or they coyer/the decked part of them with cocoa-leaves, when they are hauled on fhore, to prevent their being hurt by the fun. The fame tools are all they have for other works; if we except different Shells, which they ufe as knives. But there are few of their productions that require thefe, unlefs it be Some of their weapons ; the other articles being chiefly their fifhing materials, and cordage. The cordage is made from the fibres of the cocoa-nut hufk, which^though not more than nine or ten inches long, they plait, about the fize of a quill, or lets, to any length that they * Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 215, 216. The reader, by comparing that account, with what Cantova fays of the fea-boats of the Caroline Iflands, will find, in this inftance, alfo, the greateft fimilarity. See Lettres Edifiantes & Curieufes, p. 286. pleafe, 39S AVOYAGETO 1777. pleafe, and roll it up in balls; from which the ^_J^y- larger ropes are made, by twiding feveral of thefe v—v""*"' together. The lines, that they fifh with, are as ftrong and even as the bed cord we make, reSembling it almoft in every refpect. The other fiShing implements, are large and fmall hooks. The laft are compofed entirely of pearl-fhell; but the firft are only covered with it on the back; and the points of both, commonly, of tortoiSe-Shell; thofe of the fmall being plain, and the others barbed. With the large ones, they catch bonnetos and albi- cores, by putting them to a bamboo rod, twelve or fourteen feet long, with a line of the fame length, which refts in a notch of a piece of wood, fixed in the Stern of the canoe for that purpofe, and is dragged on the furface of the fea, as fhe rows along, without any other bait than a tuft of flaxy duff near the point. They have alfo great numbers of pretty fmall feines, fome of which are of a very delicate texture. Thefe they ufe to catch fifh with, in the holes on the reefs, when the tide ebbs. The other manual employments, confift chiefly in making mufical reeds, flutes, warlike weapons, and Stools, or rather pillows, to Sleep on. The reeds have eight, nine, or ten pieces placed parallel to each other, but not in any regular progression ; having the longed, fometimes, in the middle, and feveral of the fame length ; fo that I have feen none with more than fix notes; and they feem incapable of playing any mufic on them, that is distinguishable by our cars. The flutes are a joint of bamboo, clofe at both ends, with a hole near each, and four others; two of which, and one of the fird only, are ufed in playing. They apply the thumb of the left hand, to clofe the 1 left THE. PACIFIC OCEAN. left noftril, and blow into the hole at one end, with the other. The middle finger of the left hand is apfljied to the fird hole on the left, and, jtgtjT* fore-finger of the right, to the loweft Jple on that fij|e,» In this manner, though the nqte| are only : itee, they produce a pleafing, yet Simple, rEuJS'p^ which they vary ,miich more than one would think poflible, with fo imperfect an instrument. Their being accuftomed to a mufic which conftjlis of So few notes, is, perhaps, the reafon3ray they do not feem to relifh any of p|pr;s, which is fo complex. But they can tade what is more dencie'nt :!tna$v their own; Sor, we obServed, that they uSed to be well pleafed with bearing the^ chant of our two young New Zealanders, which confided rather in mere Strength, than in melody of expreffion. The weapons, which they make, are clubs of different forts (in the ornamenting of which they fpend much time), Spears, and darts. They have alfo bows and arrows; but thefe feemed to be de- figned only for amufement, fuch as fhooting at bjglj, and not for military purpofes. The flools are about two feet> ljang' j^tuonly four or five inches high, and near four broad, bending downward in tfefemiddle, with four ftrong legs, and circular feet; the whole made of one piece of black or br$®r.r>. wood, neatly polifhed, ajw fometimes inlaid with bj^.oFw§r^j. They alfo inlay the handles of fly- flaps with ivory, after being neatly carved ; and they Shape bones into Small figures of men, birds, and other things, which muft be very difficult, as their carving inftumen^is only a fhark's tooth. Yams, plantains, and cocoa-nuts, compote the greateft part of their vegetable diet. Of their animal food, the chief articles are hogs, fowls, fifh, and all forts of fhell-fifh ; but the lower people eat rats. The two fird vegetable articles, with 395 A V O Y A G E T O 1777. with bread-fruit, are, what may be called, the July, bafis of their food, at different times of the year, "
que le foleil eft couch*, & ils fe levent-avec l'aurore.
defunct dans un petit edifice de pierre, qu
@en, "Volume 1 of 3 and an atlas. "Vol. I and II written by Captain James Cook, F.R.S. Vol. III by Captain James King, L.L. D. and F.R.S." -- Title Page. Date supplied from bibliography: Strathern, G.M., & Edwards, M.H. (1970). Navigations, traffiques & discoveries, 1774-1848: A guide to publications relating to the area now British Columbia. Victoria, BC: University of Victoria. p. 62. Other copies: http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/858621524"@en ; edm:hasType "Books"@en, "Travel literature"@en ; dcterms:identifier "FC3821.243 .A1 1784a"@en, "II-0126-i-V01"@en ; edm:isShownAt "10.14288/1.0314270"@en ; dcterms:language "English"@en ; edm:provider "Vancouver : University of British Columbia Library"@en ; dcterms:publisher "Dublin : H. Chamberlaine, W. Watson, Potts, Williams, Cross, Jackson, Moncrieffe, Walker, Jenkin, Burnet, Wilson, Wogan, Exshaw, Vallance, Beatty, White, Whitestone, Burton, Byrne, Mills, J. Porter, Strwart, Wallace, Higly, Cash, Herey and McKenzie"@en ; dcterms:rights "Images provided for research and reference use only. For permission to publish, copy, or otherwise distribute these images please contact digital.initiatives@ubc.ca."@en ; dcterms:source "Original Format: University of British Columbia. Library. Rare Books and Special Collections. FC3821.243 .A1 1784a"@en ; dcterms:subject "Clerke, Charles, 1741-1779"@en, "Voyages around the world"@en, "Northwest, Pacific"@en, "Discovery & exploration"@en, "Northwest Passage"@en, "Northeast Passage"@en, "Oceania--Discovery and exploration"@en ; dcterms:title "A voyage to the Pacific Ocean. Undertaken, by the command of his Majesty, for making discoveries in the northern hemisphere. To determine the position and extent of the west side of North America; its distance from Asia; and the practicability of a northern passage to Europe. Performed under the direction of Captains Cook, Clerke and Gore, in His Majesty's ships the Resolution and Discovery. In the years 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779 and 1780. In three volumes. Illustrated with maps and charts, from the original drawings made by Lieut. Henry Roberts, under the direction of Captain Cook. Vol. I"@en ; dcterms:type "Text"@en .