CONTENTdm
A voyage round the world : which was performed in the years 1785, 1786, 1787, and 1788, by M. de la Peyrouse
British Columbia Historical Books Collection
Mourelle de la Rúa, Francisco Antonio, 1750-1820
Milet-Mureau, L. A. (Louis Antoine), 1756-1825
Vancouver, George, 1757-1798
La Pérouse, Jean-François de Galaup, comte de, 1741-1788
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tJne' <y. /r. cTCoeen^yan^dt/.-Zs.\Zteed6| w Voyage round the World. PERFORMED IN THB TEARS 1785, 1786, I787, 1788, BY M. de la PEYROUSE: Abridged from the Original French Journal of M. de la iJEYR. use, winch was lately pubiifhed by M. Milet-Mureau. in Obedience to an Order from the French Government. ■ # 'pM TO WHICH ARE ADDED, A Voyage from Manilla to California, BY I DON ANTONIO MAURELLE : AND an abstract of the Voyage \ and Difcoveries 0F THE LATE CAPT. G. VANCOUVER. BOSTON: MINTED FOR JOS£PH BVMSTEAD. Sold by him at No. 20, Uni^-Street : BY Thomas and Andrews, Newbuhy-Stjeet ; by E. an* %. Larxin. Wm. P. And L. Blake, W. Pxxjiam, AWD C. BiNCHAM, eORHJULl, 180*. PREFACE, BY THE EDITOR. -&- HIS little volume contains the fubfiance of TWO recent PUBLICATIONS ; concerning which the curiofity -of the world has been very powerfully excited ; •which are filed with knowledge ofafpe*> cies that is remarkably fitted to expand and illumi" note every mind; but which are to be bought at an: expence that, but for the expedient @f abridgment% mi'Jl exclude the greater number of readers from: tiny acquaintance with their contents. 1he original work from which the Account of the Voyage of M. BE LA PEYROUSE, has been: extracted, is not fimply a narrate. It comprehends—the very elaborate papers of i&ftru£tion$ and advice, which were given to direcl the inveJM-* gallons, and to guide the eourfe of the French nav- igators-*~tbe journal of La Psyroufe, which ^Pp had transmitted'- home for publication-—a Spanifh. I journal which La Peyronie ■ fent to France, wi$$%. ■ms own papers, for the fmue of illuftraiinz$$Mt?.hif'> tory of the South Sea Ijles—with various extracts from the letters of La Peyroufe him/elf and 'of ,$$? companions of his voyage, which ferve to confirm the narrative in the principal journal, or i» enlarge it by the communication of new particulars. Ghjirts, ami other engravings, accompany and illuf f^tecike journal) and the cth$r communicatims.,•■ IV PREFACE* And a number of nautical tubhs chfe thenvbole, at the end. It is true, that the INSTRUCTIONS with which La PEYROUSE was favoured, when he fet out om his voyage, are more elaborate than any we know i& have been given to the navigators,, who were fent upon our Britifh voyages of difevvery. But, if all the fcience and intelligence of the Britifh Nation, had been fir ained in one great effort, to produce th# mofl ample and luminous papers of INSTRUCTIONS, which could be given to navigators fetting out on a voyage of difcovery round the worldV the birth fromfuch an effort mrntld, doubilcfs, have been very muchfuperior to that which France gcive to guide an enterprize intended to eclipfe the fame of the voyages of Coox. La Peyrouseis Journal itfelfis written in * plain, manly manner, without much affeElation. The amorouspropenfities of the French, which have iften fpoiled their fortunes, jeem to have been the true caufe (f one of the moflferious difqfers which thefe voyagers met with, in the eourfe of their- whole expedition^ The EXTRACTS from the private CORRESPOND JDENCE of La Peyroufe him/elf and his companions, with their friends in France, add little or nothing to the information in the Journal, but coth- firm that information by mult/plied tefiimonies, and evince the voyagers to have lived happily together, 0 have retained a tender remembrance of the friend* they had left in France, and to have been, every one% vigilantly attentive to their proper funtlions in the profecution of the voyage. In the Abridgement of the Account <f this Voyage of La PEYROUSE, ony one continued narrative has been formed. Anecdotes of the Life of PREFACE*, I £*- °Peyrvup.^~the fubfianc^of the AnfiruBion^ which were given him *, the moft remarkable particulars from-the correfpondence, are involved in this, abfirafled narrative, with the tenor of the princi* pal Journal. It was fuppofed that, by this cecono- my, the ABRIDGEMENT would be rendered more convenient to the reader, more inter efiling, more legitimately claffical, as a compofition, than if each particular part of. the original collection Jhould be abridged by itfelf. Of La Peyroufe's work, the nautical matter is far the moft valuable :, And, for this reafon, extreme care has been ufed, not to mar this matter in abridging, it. The information relative to Natural Hiftory, and to human*focieiy, as being the moftl generally inter efiling to readers of all claffes, is here detailed with the amp left expanfion of ff>e matter. The fpeculations of M. de la Pey~% rjoufe,as being, of inferior value, are, for the greattr- piart, omitted. The dfcoveries made on the North" Loft coafi of Tartary, being fingularly important, are related at full length, with the careful difplay of almoft every minute particular. - ihe Narrative of the Voyage of the Spanifih navigator, MAURELLE, is abridged in, /^fecond of the articles which compofe this little Volume* His calculations of the latitudes' appear to be very. inaccurate*M But, this abftraB of his Narrative contains the. only account which we pojfefs in Eng~ glifih, of the inter eourfe of the Spaniards with the inhabitants of the newly difcovered ifiles in the font hern ocean. MAURELLE feemsto have acled &vithconfiderably more of fpirit, prudence, and fertility of refources accommodated to the exigencies of ^ newfituation,than. were exercifed by La Peyroufe *fijk his inter eourfe with thefe favage cr barbarian W^tdCfs. Thefhort narrative of MdVRELLE,) A-a- -ft r V! PREFACf. m w thtoHvs light on the manners of the people of thofe remote ifiles, bfwhich European euriofity has beenf* Jftrongly attracted. il: The very valuable and well-ivrittra account of the voyages of VANCOUVER, has been but jufi given to the public. It is the work of the commcn- der by whom the expedtthn was tonduBed. It if to be lamented, that a man fo accompli/hed fhould have been called away, b\ a premature death, while the taftjheets of his wo fk were in the Prefis. from the ferric e of his country. The very brief abjiraB of Vancouver's Narrative, which makes the third article in this volume, will clearly evince fo the reader, the importance of VANCOUVER'S difi- coveries on the north-weft coaft of America, and will contribute, it is hoped, to diffufe wider the fame of his expedition, but cannot at all injure the male of the original work—of which it is, in truth% but a very meagre fikeleton. VANCOUVER and his companions proved themfelves to be qualified with that patient perfieverance, penetration comprehenfive fagacity, fortitude and cool intrepidit:, which are necefifary to the fuccefsful acconiplifhfnent of any very perilous lqWd exfefifeve voyage of difcovery. Vancouver appears to me, to have faffciently evin- etdthe impoffibility of any paffage fiorjhips, between the Atlantic and the pacific Oceans fptithin thole latitudes, between whu&ithis paffage has been foUgbt. But, lam far fir om believing, that he has traced the whole outline of the coaft which he furveyed, with the moft petfeB atetiracy. He failed over that farrallel of latitude in which La Peyroufe places his Port des Francois, Wrihoutldi[cQv<.ring its ex- ijfence. And I doubt not but there remains much fo be yet difcovered oft thefe coafts by the diligence df future navigators* |ir NARRATIVE OF A Voyage of Difcovery* WI'fiE LATE %&. fee la J^oitfe* CHAP.f*. De/tgn of the Voyage ; and eourfe to the Iffe of St* Catharine's) on the Eaflern Coaft of South America. HE firft faintly of the humar* *ace were probably fettled in one particular fituation on the earth, in which they lived, without any ex- tenfive knowledge of the reft of its furface. Their immediate pofterity were difperied by accidents, and in circumftanccs, which gave thenv no inclination to fyftematic,geographical difcov- ery, and which} fey the greater part, a* it fliould feem, occafioned tse different tribes to lofe the diftincT remembrance of their parent-feats, as well as to become carelefs of a mutual and ger>* era! communication,from time to ffcne, with one another. Cafual wanderings between the feat of one trios and that of another, fir it contributed fi..' ,A PEYROUSE S VOYAGE to renew that mutual intercourfeof mankind which had feemed to be ioft by their diiperfionj Incipient commerce aided and extended this in^ tercourfe. War and the fpirit of 4®nqueft foon arofe, to re-unite various petty tribes under the dominion of one monarch. Colonization, con- dueled partly on the principles of eonqueft, and in partj on thofe-of commerce, did fomething more to make the human inhabitants, even of widely diftant parts of the ^worid, acquainted with one another's exiftence and circumftanccs. WtiQ rife and progrefs of fcience, in Egypt, in Greece, in. Italy., formed fo many different centres of knowledge. pThe eftabKfhment.of tho Raman Empire comprehended all thefe centre* within one great fyftem, the feveral different! parts of which had a necefiary correfpondence with one another. The irruption of barbarous* eonqueft deftroyed this fyftem, and difmemberedi all its parts. Chriftianity, under the Roman Pontiff, endeavoured again to combine, and toi civilize the world. A focus of the knowledge of the earth and of human fociety, was thus eftablifhed in Europe. Crufading wars,, and the navigation of the Mediterranean Sea and of th« • perman Ocean, gradually enlarged the fphereof this knowledge, and enhanced its fpletfdour. It was foon aftonifhingly expanded by the navig* tionof the Indian, and of the AtlanticfOccan. Piracy, commerce, travels on land, voyages by fea,ftill ftietehed wider its compafs, cleared its avenues, and brought its moft diftant extremities virtually nearer together, by facilitating thei mutual.communication between them. Mankind ceafed to be fo many diftinel hordes, andfeemed to become again, one great family. Aval$ce, .94* ROUND THE WORLD. |ddent, eonqueft, had hithertogdone all this* j| Benevolence and fcientific curiofity were, at length, to lend their aftiftar.e^. In chappy time George the Third afcended the, Britifh throne : under his aufpices,expeditions "of benevolent difcovery were fent out to explore the fbuthern and the northern ocean. T&ecjmofitfi; lire emulation of all Europe was awakened.. France would contend with Britain in a career more iftuftric us than that: of eonqueft.- \ybilffi lit wis the Sixteenth reigned, fcienee and benevolence held a powetlul influence in the French Adminift;ration. La Peyrouse waaf fenfc out, to emulate, and to complete the difcoverks. of. Cook. hA Peyrouse was a naval officer of great merit and experience. He was born at Albi, im the year 1741. He entered, as a midftipwan, Into the French Navy, in the year 1756. His gallantry was eminently diftinguimed in the fa* mous naval engagement in which the French fleet under M. de Conflans, was defeated, off Beileifle, by the English, commanded by Admiral Hawke. The war between France and Britain ended. But La Peyrouse continued in active fervice during ail the mterva|i>ef peace, till France declared war, as the ally of America* againft Britain,in the year 1778. He had, in this period, attained to the rank of Lieutenant j and he was, now, quickly promoted to the 'f$m« inand of a feparatc veffel. >He executed with fuccefs, and not without g^iero&s humanity to the fufferers, an enterprise on which he was fent, with three fhips of war, from Cape Francois, in; the year 1782, for the deftru&ion of the BritiiH fettiements on Hudfon's Bay. '^is reputation, JO LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE as a naval o!ker,recommended Mm to the choice of the French government, as a man to whom the care p|;vindicating to his country, the glory of naval, geographical difcovery, might be fitlyj intrufted, in the year 1785. t The Ffench Government, having projected tjiis expedition with generous views ofkJiberali inquiry and emulation in fcienee; and having,; with great discernment, fele&ed fuch an officer as M. de la Peyroufe, to conduct rt ; faileifefiot to adopt every other poifibfc precautipgi to fit it for the fuccefsful accomplifhment of thofe ob- jte&s to attain which it was deftined. ^fTwo frigates, La Boussole and L'Astrolabe, were appropriated, as the moft fuitable veffels for the expedition. A very ample and elaborate paper of inftruBions was prepared, £9 fpecify to the intended navigators, the plan of their voyage ; to direct their geographical and hydrographical inquiries j. to indicate thofe objects in poiky andi commerce, which they were to keep in view; to guide them in the obfervation of. new fa-£bs re- latlve to Aftronomy, Natural Phijofophy, and Natural Hiflory ; to teach them, with what mingled §t£miefs and gentlenefs,k might beeonle them to conciliate the favour, while they fhould qorhmzud the rcfpe£t, of the f^vage inhabitants of what foe ver ft range iiles Or continents they-i might vifit ; and to enlighten them .with the? beft directions which medicine or naval expend ence could fugged, for the prefentatton of the^ health of the ihip's crews, during the long periods for which they were deftined to remain at fci.- FjLEURlEU, a navigator of diftinguiibedJ {kill in all the moft important fubje&h of nnjtkJ aland hydrographical refearch, collected, into;a gOUNB THE'WOIWHR* ri &ries of elaborate notes, annexed to thefe inftruc- tiens, the moft curious expositions and diicuf- lions of all the moft interefting, yet uncertain points,in the nautical geography of the globe, whLh might be expected to have new light thrown vpon them by the obfervations of M. de la Peyrouse and his co-adjutors. The French Academy ofSciences readily fuggefted, in an excellent memoir, every topic in all the different fciences, upon •which the obfervations and inquiries of the vov- agers might ufefully tarn. The eyes of all France were earnestly turned upon an expedition which promifed much glory to the nation, .and grea#mprovem'e*nts to the fciences and artft Every one was eager to make his contribution towards its fuccefs. One communicated directions for new experiments upon -the prefervaticrx of frefti water for ufe at fea : Another gave in* itructions for the collection and the prefervation •of vegetables and foifils : Some brought pre- ients * While others were more lavffh of advif^ Ample ft ores of provifions for the fhip's'crey^ •©£alLfhofe trifles of European Manufacture! , which are known to be #e moft -acceptable to favages—©f: the inftruments of the different mechanic arts—of vegetable feeds and plantj£ /to be*dtfTeminated upon fernote," foreign coafts —s-of ail the implements neceffary for the intended fcient&ic obfervations—with even a fuitable nautical and philofophical Jibrarj^—were, by the ^ates ofthe French Adminiitration, put en boari, •the two ii%ates for the voyage. -The Britifh Board of Longitude Wkt, for its ufe, two dipping comf>affes,which had been ufed in Commodore \0qqxl3 laft expedition. If On board the veffel El BQvuoi&f'tym embarked to the number of f I *-- titt r 22 LA "FEYROUSES VOYSfit about j 20 perfons, under the immediate command of M. de la Peyrouse. ^Phe crew, audi the other perfons who failed in V %strolab«| compofed about an equal number. Aftronbmers, engineers, botanifts, mineralogifts,draughtimeaii clock-makers, a phyfician perfojas eminentlyi qualified for all the different plans of obfervatioaj and inquiry, to be purfued in the voyage, were among thefe two companies. M. de Langle, thei friend of de la Peyrouse, was appointed to the| command of the frigate L'astrolabe. In the beginning of July, in the year 17.85, the frw jfates with their full complements of menraii4i fjpres, were nearly ready to fet fail from the port #f Breft. On the 1 ft day of Auguft, they failed from the Road of Breft. On the 13th, they had! feached Madeira, without experiencing any i«h markable accident. In this eourfe, their notice 'was not particularly attracted by any natural appearance, favc that lumtnoufnefs of the furface of the fea by night, which has been often observed, in va-Rousf^aees, and is fuppqfedto proceed from fome fmall phofphoric bodies, living, or inanimate, diffufed, in infinite multitude, over the waves. At Madeira, they were courteously welcomed by Mr. johnftoun a Britifh merchant,Mr. Mur- jay the British conful, and M. Montero, win Jhad the care of the bufinefs of the French consulate. From Mr. Johnftoun, M. de ia Peyroufe received a handfome prefent of fruits, temon- juice, rum, and wine. During three days, thei voyagers enjoyed the kind and fumptuous hofpi- talityof their attentive hofts Bat, M. de la Peyroufe bad halted here only to purchaie win» GROUND THE WORLD. m for the voyage 5 which, he now learned, might be had more than one half cheaper at Teneriffe. On the 16th, therefore, they failed for that ifl&. In the morning of the 18th, as~they continued their eourfe, Salvage liland appeared within view. Running down the eaft fide of this ifle, at about half a league' diftance from the land, M. de la Peyroufe could perceive it to be bare of vegetation, and to exhibit at its furface nothing but beds of lava, and different matters of volcanic origin. He conceived its coaft to be fo fafe for {hipping, that there might be an hundred fathoms depth of water, within a cable's length'of the land. Its pofition they found from then time-keepers, and from aftronomical obfervation, to be in 1$ deg. 13 min. W.longitude, in 30 deg. 8 min. 15 fee. N. latitude. On the 19th of Auguft, at three o'clock in the -afternoon the two frigates caft anchor before Teneriffe, in the road of Santa Cruz. Here they were detained ten days ; receiving on board fixty pipes of the wine of the ifland, for which they had brought empty calks. - Erecting an ob- fervatory on more, upon their arrival, they made a number of obfervations to afcerta-in the precife movement of their different time-keepers, and the bearings of the place. The pofition of San-- taCruz was found to be ie B de. yjm.^o fec.W. longitude,in 28 deg. 27 min. 30 fee.nN. latitude. Their- experiments on the dipping compafs proved uncertain and tmfatisfa&ory in the refults ; which they attributed to the attraction of the iron-ore with which the whole foil of Teneriffe is decpfy impregnated.-||The hat- uralifts wex^ not idle: M.*de la Martiniere Biade fome botanical excurfions : found feveral mterefting plants 5 and nerceived the mercury I ■m Ifr, LA PEYROUSE'S VOYAGE in his barometer, which, at Santa Ciuz flood at 28 inches, and 3 lines, to fall on the fummit of the famous Peak, to 18 inches j|| lines: At Santa Cruz the mercury ftood at 24-ir, in the thermometer; but on the fummit of the pe*ak, fubfided to yd. M. de Monneron, engineer, attempted to meafure the height of the peak, by taking levels from its fummit, down to the fea- fhore. But, the obftinacy of tthe muletteers j whom he had employed to attend him, with his , inftruments and baggage, during the operation, hindered him from completing it : And his notes of thofe fteps which he had taken, 'have not been preferved.* During their ftay in the road of Santa Cruz, the French voyagers experienced many obliging civilities from theMarquis de Branciforte, Governor-General of the Canary lilands. In the afternoon ef the 30th of Auguft, the voyage was renewed. Unwilling to touch at the unhealthy Cape pe Verd ifiands, M. de la Peyroufe wiihedto proceed with an uninterrupted eourfe, to the ifle of La Trinidada. They failed through thefe calm feas, without any unplea-- fant accident. For a.while, they had the advantageous aid of the trade winds. Solicitous to preierve the health of his crews, as fuccefsful- ly as had been done by Cook, La Peyroufe now made the fpace between the decks to be fumigated, and was careful to have the hammocks taken down, while circumftances would permit,.fromr: eight o'clock in the morning till funfet. By the direction of the trade-wind, he was obliged to tail parraliel to the coaft of Africa, longer than '..*- Heber Jen's measurement of the height of the peak of f en- eriSie, makes it 2409 titles ; FeuJi)te; a iy. Bov.^uer, z.co j Verdun, DonJa.-anU-tfingre, 190^, ROUND THE WORLD' ** • ifie had intended, at, about fixty leagues diftance from the land^fn Oij the 29th of September, and in the 18th degree of weftern longitude, they croffed the equinoctial line.^JfFrom the line, a S.E.wind purfued them as far as 20 d. 25m.fouth latitude. ' Nor were they able to get into the precife latitude of Yrinidada, till after they had run about 25 leagues of longitude,eaftward from it. Man-of-war birds followed them, in confid- erable numbers, from 8 degf. N. latitude,till they had proceeded 3 deg. S. from the line. Their eourfe was interrupted by none of thofe calms which fome feamen fear, under the Line, in thefe latitudes. Soon after their departure from Teneriffe, the fkies ceafed to exhibit the clear azure of the temperate zones. From the rifing to the fetting of the fun, a dull hazy whitenefs, fomewhat between fog and clouds, conftantly obfeured the atmofphere, and contracted their vifible horizon to the compafs of about three leagues^mBut, the nighfe were radiant and ferene. At 10 o'clock in the morning of the i&th of October, they came within fight of the Ifles of Martin Vas. Thefe ifles are only bare rocks. They are three in number; feparated from one another, by fmall intervals'; and, even the largeft, but about a quarter of a league in circumference. Their pofition is in 20 deg. 30 min. 35 fee. S. lat~ in 30 deg. 30 m.Vf. long. They came within fight of the iiTand of Frix- j idada, about funfet, on the fame day. At 10 o'clock next morning, M. de la PeyrotNfe was furp'rifed to perceive the Portuguefe flag flying in Jrjiemidft of a fmall port, at the bottom of an"jurat?-formed by tHe S. E. point of the ifle.% In tfemor4Bing of the 18th,Lieu tenant deVaujuas> i6 LA peyrouse's vovage IRE M. de la Martiniere, and Father Receveur,, went on fhore, in a pinnace from L'Aftrolabe. The furf ran fo high, that, but for the ready aififtance of the Portuguefe, the boat's crew> muft have perifhed. About two hundred men were found to compofe the Portuguefe eftablifti- ment on this ifle. g Thefe had come, about a year before, from Rio Janeiro, to take poffeffion of it. Little pleafed with the curiofity of their vifitants* they would not permit even the botanifts to goi beyond the beach, in fearch of plants. Neither wood nor water, was to be here procured. Thei Portuguefe affifted in putting off the boat from the ftrand. And the Frenchmen returned on board their fhip, difappointed of every object: which they had fought on the ifle. Another boat from M. de la Peyroufe's own fhip, La Bouffole, likewife approached the fhore, under the command of Lieutenant Boutin. He founded the-road to within mufketfhot of the beach 5 and found its bottom to be rocky, with a little fand. M. de Monneron, who went in the boat* made an exact drawing of the port. M. de La- manon obferved the rocks to be compofed of ba-. faltes, with other fubftances of volcanic origin. The ifland of Trinidada prefents to the eye nothing but a barren rock, having, in fome nar- tow glens, among its heights, a few (hrubs and a flight appearance of verdure. The Portuguefe have fixed their eftablifhment in one of its glyns, in the fouth-eaft quarter of the iflandi which fpreads out into a vale of about 3«o toifesl an width. It is rather to prevent others from occupying it, than for the fake of any advantage it can afford to themfelves, that the Potugiefisf have made afettlement onTrinidada. Its foutheaft point is in the fouthern latitude of 20 d. 31 m. ; ROUND THE WORLD. *7 and, by lunar obfervation, in the weftern longitude of 3od. 57m. It had been, before, for a time; occupied by the Eaglifh. The Portuguefe garrifon or colony are, for the prefent, fupplied with neceflaries from Rio Janeiro. On the 18th of October, the frigates failed weft ward.' From the iUthto the evening of the 24th they went'on in the fame direction,-in a fruitlefs fearch for the ifle of AscENCAON.|i M. de la Peyroufe then abandoned the fearch, and concluded that no fuch ifland had exiftence. But, he had explored only the fpace of jd. of longitude W. from Trinidada, between the S. Latitudes of 2d. icm. and2od. 50m* fo is probable, that, if he ha9 advanced about id. farther ! weft ward, he would have difcovered the ifle he : fought, which does not yet deferve to be expunged from the maps* A violent ftorm affailed the voyagers on the 25th of October* They were enveloped in a circle of fire, about the hour of eight in the evening. Lightning fiafhed from every point of ■ the horizon : and lambent flames of the corpo- fianto ox Will-with-the-wifp, fettled on the point of the electrical conductor of Xa Bouflble ; and on the maft-head of L'Aftrolabe, which was Iwithout any electrical conductor, but at no great diftance from its companion. As they proceed- fed, the weather continued from this time ftormy, jand they were furrounded by a thick fog, till" Ithey reached the ifle of St. Catharine's, contiguous to the eaftern coaft of the continent of South America.. On-the dth of November, they anchored between St. Catherine's and the mainland, in Irwater which was feven fathonp dceD, with a bottom of muddy fand, T B 2 15 ri' ill I LA PE-YROUSE's VOYAGE CHAP. II. Voyage, Obfervations, and TranfiaBions, from thei Sixth Day of November 1785, to the Eighth of\ April 1 "j1&6 J including the Courfe from St A Catharine's to the Fafler-lfi.and 1 with JDefcrip- tions of St. Catharine's ', the Settlement ofiConA ception on the Coaft of Chili, C5V. HE ifle of St. Catharine is, m breadth from eaft to weft, only two leagues ; but ex-j tends in length from 2 7d. 19m. 10 fee* to 27m. 4Qm.S.latitude. It isfeparated from the adjacent] main land by a channel which, at its narrowed 1 part, exceeds not the width of '200 toifes. On the point of"the ifle which here juts out into the channel, is^ fituated the city of Noftra Senora del Defiero, which contains about 4*© houfes lodging not more than 30©© fouls, and is the capital of the ifle, in which its governor refides. The inferior furface of this ifle is overfpread with fore ft s of lofty evergreens, with an impervious thicknefs of briars and other creeping plants, among their trunks below. Snakes, of which the bite is mortal, lurk in the thickets. Fruits, vegetables, corn, are produced 4n inexhauftible plenty, and almoft fpontaneoufly, by the natural fertility of the foil. The habitations are all contiguous to the fea-fhore. Around them are planted orange-trees, Swith other odoriferous plants and Ihrubs of the mo ft delightful fragrance. •The furrounding feas abound with whales, the' fubjects of a lucrative fiftiery. In the approach of fhips to the ifle, a muddy bottom, with 70 fathoms depth of wrater, is found at [ 8 leagues diftance. From this, the water becomes gradu- ROUND THE WORL&. *9 ally fhallower to the depth of four fathoms, at thediftance of four cable's length from the land.. The common paffage for veffels, is, between the North Point of bt. Catharine's and the iflet of Alvaredo. The belt anchorage is at half a league from Fort Ifle, in fix fathoms of water, with a muddy bottom, adjacent to feveral convenient [watering places on St. Catharine's and on the •continent. The fea is very heavy, and breaks always on the lee-fhore. The tides are very irregular, enter at both ends of the channel, and rife -mly three feet. The ifle of St. Catharine's was firft occupied iby .fugitives from the Brazils. About the year 1740, the court of Lifbon eftablifhed here,a regular government, comprehending, together. with this ifle,fome part of the adjacent continent. Of this government, the extent from North to outh, from the river San Francifco to Rio jGrtande, is 60 leagues. Its population is efti- In'ated, perhaps under the truth,at about 20,000 ■fouls. But, the people are indolent and poor, jfature is fo bountiful, that they know not thofe [wants which are requifite to excite man to in- iuftry. The whale-fifhery is the property^ )f the Crown, and is formed by a company at Lifbon. About 400 whales, are, every jrear, killed here. But, from thefe, little gain s derived to the people of St. Catharine's. The produce of the fifhery, oil, whalebone, andfper- naceti, is fent annually to Lifbon, by the way of Rio Janeiro. At the approach of theFrench frigates, feveral ilarm guns were fired from the different fori$. M. de Pierrevert, third lieutenant, or Enfeigne de •/aiJftaU) being immediately fent afhore, found Q£X LA PIYROUSE S VOYAGE the garrilon of the citadel, 40 men with a captain commanding them, all under arms.. An express was inftantly fent to the governor Don Fran cifco di Baros, in the town ; who readily gave orders to furnifli the voyagers with whatever they wanted, at the lowed prices ; and appointed an officer to attend on each frigate, and. ailift them in their purchafes. On.the 9th of November, Mefirs. de la Peyroufe and de Lan- gle, went both on fhore with feveral of their officers. They were received by the commander of the fort, with the difcharge of fifteen guns ;. which was returned by an equal number from the frigate La Bouffole. §fA boat,under the com- mand of Lieutenant Boutiny with a number of other gentlemen on board, was, on the following day, fent to thank the governor, at the town, in M. de la Peyroufe's name, for his attentions, which had been already found very beneficial. He received them with great politenefs, entertained them at dinner, and favoured them with fome intereftinn: information concerning thefe- parts* On the 13th Don Antonio de Gama, major-general of the colony, vifited the voyagers onboard their (hips, and was the bearer of a verv obliging letter from his commander to M.. de la Peyroufe. The ftay of the voyagers in. the road of St. Catharine's, was protracted longer than they had expected, becaule the fouth- erly winds and die currents were fo ftrong, as frequently to interrupt their iniercourfe with the land.^>Provifions were, fortunately, plentiful and cheap A large ox migkt be bought for eight dollars ; a hog. of a 150 pounds weight, Jor four dollars; two turkeys for one 5 500.or- angeSilfor half a dollar. To procure abundance ROUND THE WORLD. It of fifhes, it was neceffary only to caft and haul the net. So benignantly hofpitable were the people of the ifle ; that, when one of the (hip's boats bringing wood, happened to be overfet, they not only rilked their lives to fave the failors, but, at night, refigned to them their own beds, and themfelves lay upon mats on the floor. The imafts, grapnel, and colours of the boats, though not found till fome days after, were not appropriated by the finders, but brought carefully on board, and refiored. The officers who went out to fhoot on the ifle killed feveral birds of beautifully variegated plumage;, among the reft a rol- lier of a fine blue colour, and not defcribed by Buffon. The clouded fky, and the uncertainty | of their ftay, hindered them from making any confiderable aftronomical obfervations. But, they found the longitude of the moft northern point of the ifle, to be^Q deg. 49 min. W. Here, too, they were careful to provide themfelves with j orange and lemon trees, with the feeds of oranges, of lemons, of the cotton-fhrub, Indian corn, and the other vegetables which the inhabitants of the iflands of the South Sea were underftood to be moft in want of. In the road of St. Catherine's, our voyagers could not but make themfelves very happy. At their arrival in it they found, that after 96 days fail not a man of them Was fick. Their provifions were good ; the ut- moft care was ufed to keep the air frefh in all parts of the (hip •, for the fake of the exercife neceffary to health, the crew had been called to dance almoft every evenfng, betwixt the hours of eight and ten § And, as they had hitherto experienced no misfortunes, their fpirits toere ftili lively.**Before their departure, M. de la Pey- ftfirH \*W .O-*'* LA PEYROUSE S;VOYAGE roufe, the commander of the expedition, though* it prudent to give to M. de Larigle, "captain os L'Aftrolabe, a new and much more extenfive fet oT fignals than they had hitherto ufed ; and they agreed, that if Separated, they fhould next rendezvous in the harbor of Good Succefs in Le- maire's Streights ; for, they were now to enter tempeftuous feas, under a foggy atmofphere, where new precautions were requifite. Before their departure they committed to^the care of the governor, who undertook to forward theraj their packets of letters for France, addreffed to the care of M. de St. Mare, the French conful- genernl at Lifbon. By break of day, on the 19th of November, they had weighed their anchors, and were under fail. In the evening ofi the fame day, they had left St Catharine's, and' all its furroundingTflets, behind them. Till the 28th of November, they enjoyed very fine weather. On that day, a violent gale of wind from the Eaft, affailed them. It was in W. long. 43 deg. 40 min. S. lat. 35 deg. 24 min. M. de la Peyroufe wifhed to vifit the Isle Grande of the maps. On the yth December,: the frigates had entered the parallel of latitude within which this ifle had been fail to lie. Sea weeds, were feen to float by the (hips ; and they were, for feveral days, furro. nded by birds of the Albat^ofis and Petrel' fpecies. The feas ro!I«- ed mountains high around. But their fliips, though not fwift failers, were well adapted to endure the billows and the blafts. Till the 2 4 Mi of December, they kept (landing upon different tacks, between the 44 deg. and 45 deg. of latitude, and. in that parallel, ran down the 15 deg* of longitude. But, on the 27th they abandoned ROUND THE WORLD. -J i e fearch ; believm*£$hat the pretended Ifle 'ande had no exiftence ; and that the indica- ;>ns. of the fea-weed and the fowls were falla- |)us. Yet, there are probabilities which make \$ Ifle Grande not unworthy" of a fearch by fome jtu/e navigator.' The neceility of hafteriing ;, to double the dreaded Cape Horn in the leaft [favourable feafon of the year, perhaps hurried de la Peyroufe to relinquifh this inquiry pre- Lturely. On the 25th, the wind fettled at ;uth Weft. Continuing for feveral days to w in this direction, it obliged the frigates to er W. N. W. Thefe gales ceafed with the mth of December; and January proved near- fuch as July is, on the coaft of Europe. The ly winds they experienced for a while, were vv in a direction from North-Weft to South- eft ; and the changes of thefe winds were aftantly indicated by previous changes in the tect of the fky. Fogs arid clouds indicated an broaching veering of the wind from South- eft to Weft ; but,within two hours, this was fays fucceeded by a variation to the JSForth- sft. When the fogs cleared up, the winds urned to the Weft and the South-Weft. In days, the wind did not blow from C\z Eaft- rd for rn,ore than eighteen hours. Calm lather, for feveral days, enfued : The feas re fmdpth : and the officers failing out in the its (hot numbers of the great and fmall alba- (Tes^and of petrels of different varieties, ich flew around them, which afforded feme ve- acceptable meals of frefh meat to the failors. 3n the 14th of January 1786, they ft ruck und on*the coaft of Patagonia, in 47 deg. min. S. Latitude, and in 64 deg. 37 min, 24 LA PSYROUSE S VOYAGE in: "W. Longitude. On the 21 ft of the fame month, they came within fight of Cape Fair Weather, the north point of the river of Galled gos, on the Patagonian coaft. They were, at thisj time, at three leagues diftant from the land, in water 41 fathoms deep, and over a bottom of argillaceous gravel. On the 22d, at noon, they were off the Cape of the Virgins> bearini four leagues W. The land is low, and almofti deftitute of verdure. An exact view of it had beeni given by the Editor of Anfon's Voyage ; and its pofition is accurately fixed in the Chart of Cook's Second Voyage. Hitherto, the lead had always brought up mud or a mixture of fmall pebbles with mud. But, when they came oppofite to Tierra del Fuego, they found a rocky bottom, and only from 24 to 30 fathoms of water, even at three leagues diftance from the land. On the 25 th, at two o'clock, they were a league fouthward from" San Diego, the weftern poinj of Le Maire's Streights. ^;At 3 o'clock, thei entered the {freights ; having doubled point San Diego, at three quarters of a league did tance from it. At the point are breakers, ex4 tending perhaps not more than a mile ; othersi which are feen in the offing beyond, obliged thq i voyagers to fteer to the fouth-eaft, to avoid themj But it was afterwards obferved, that thefe hreaki ers were occafioned by currents, and that th® reefs of San Diego were a great way off. It blew frefh from the north ; and our voyageta approached within half a league of the land of) Tierra del Fuego- But as the wind was fair, and the feafon falB advanced, M. de la Peyroufe abandoned his %li tendon of entering the harbour of Good Suc^ ROUND THE WORLD. 2$ cess; and heldKonwards,jwithout lofs of time, to double Cape'Horn. The ifland of Juan Fer- nanDes was the place at which he now purpof- |ed to make the firft halt for the fake of refrefu- fments. As they proceeded through the Streights, they [faw themfelves invited to land, by frequent fires [kindled by the favages, who perceived, them from [the fhore. They were furrounded by whales which fwam about the frigates, without alarm. No place- in the world can.afford a more fuc- [cefsful whale fifhery than might be carried on here. Their entrance into the Streights was at 3 o'clock in the afternoon.^ Till five, they were [drifted rapidly fouthward, before the tide.^At [fiveV^he tide turned ; but a ftrong breeze from [the north carried them ftill on, in the fame direction. So mifty was the horizon, in its eafterii [quarter, that they did not perceive Staten Land, the eaftern boundary of the Streights, although they were within lefs than 5 leagues of It. They doubled Cape Horn much more eafily fhan they had expected. Their . fuceefs may hontribute to leffen thofe terrors in regard to jhe navigation round this promontory, which fhe narrative of Anforis Voyage has long excited imong feamen. On the 9th of February, they found them- elves oppofite to the weftern entrance of the Jtreights of Magelhaens, in their eourfe or the ifland of Juan Fernandez, in the South >ea. But an examination of the ftate of their lores -of water and bifcuit, here induced them o relinquish their defign of vifiting that ifle, Hid to alter their eourfe for the Spanifh fettle-. tent of Cqnc^p#k>n, on the coaft of Chili. j • 0& LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE On the morning of the 26th, they arrived within fight of the ifle of Mocha, about 50 leagues fouth from Conception. Afraid of being drifted northward by currents they here turned in towards the land. At 2 o'clock in the afternoon ©f the fame day, they doubled the point of the ifland of Quiquirina. Asithe foutherly winds were, now, by the change in their eourfe, adrl verfe ; they were, from this point, obliged to fiand upon tack, and to keep the lead confiantly going. They in vain looked through their piaffes, to difcover the city of Conception, at the bottom ' of the bay. But pilots came on board at five o'clock in the evening, by-whom they were informed, that the old city had been laid in ruins by an earthquake in the year 1751 ; and that a new town had been built on the banks of the river Biobio, about three leagues inland. From the fame pilots, they received, alfo, the agreeable news, that, in confequence of letters from the ISpanifh Minifter, they were already expeeTed at Conception. At nine o'clock in the evening,! they anchored in 9 fathoms depth of water, and not far from the bottom of the bay. fiAt 7 next morning, they weighed anchor -, and, with their j boats towing them a-head, entered the creek of Talcaguana where at 11 o'clock A. M. on the 24th of February, 1786, they caft anchor in 7I fathoms depth of water, over a bottom of black mud. The bay of Conception is an eminently commodious harbour. Its water is fmooth, and aid moft without a current. The tide, however^ rifes fix feet three inches ; and the flood is-, at its height at 45 minutes after 1 o'clock, A. M. unJ der the full and under the changing moon. It ROUND the world. 27 is fheltered from all but the north winds : And thefe, here, blow only in the rainy feafon from the end of May to the beginning of October. On the fouth-eaft fhore, off the village of Talca- guana, the only fettlement. now in the bay, there is anchorage under fhelter from the north^eaft: winds of the winter. The ruins of the old town of Conception are ftill to be feen at the mouth of the river of St. Peter, eaftward from Talcaguana. In- the year 1763, the fite for the new town was marked out, on the banks of the Biobio, at the diftance of three leagues inland from the ruins of the old. It contains about 10,000 inhabitants ; isthe feat of the Bifhop and of the Major-general, commander of ail the forces of the colony ; and pofTeffes the epifcopal cathedral, and all the religious houfes. The bifhoprick is conterminous, on one hand, with that of San Jago, the capital of the government of Chili; is fkirted to the eaftward by the Cordilleras ; and extends fouthward to the (freights of Magelhaens. But, except the ifland of Chi- loe, and a fmall diftri£t rour-d Baldivia, the whole countrv fouth from the Biobio, is inhabited by Indians who own not the Spanifh. dominion, and who are almoft always at war with the Span-* iards. The prefent government is wholly milir tarv and ecclefiaftical*: But a fuperintendant, or civil governor, is about to be added to the e-ftab- lifhment.itt The foil of the .furrounding. territory is pro- digtoufly fertile. The plains are covered with an abundant luxuriance of herbage, and with flocks and herds innumerable. The increafe of grain is 60 fold. The vineyards are alike' fertile. ^Great numbers of oxen are every year mtl '• JEM ' ih-ffl 1- If r is P : 23 LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE killed, for the fake of tallow and hides alone, which are preferved and fent to Lima. The climate is remarkably healthy; and many of the people live to an extreme old age. The commerce" of this "country is, however, fubject: to II reftfictions, which prove exceedingly injurious to the general profperity of the inhabitants. Four or five veffels arrive every year from Lima, with fugar,tobacco, and a few articles of European manufacture, the prices of which are 1 by the moft exhorbitant duties. CU iicti J *_ t tl Wheat, tallow, hides, a few planks, and fome gold, are the only exports with which payment I can be made for thofe articles of import?tion. »f»i* t 200.600 dollars may be liv» total value of the gold annually collected from the fands of the rivers within the bifhoprick of Conception. The inhabitants gather it by lifting and jwafhing this fand ; and to the amount of half a dollar a day, may thus be earned by the induftry of a fingle peribn. 'But, the abundance of neceffa- ries for fubfiftence, leaves thefe people without excitements to induftry, which might animate them to purfue any branch of it with perfever- ance and fuccefs. The houfes in the city of Conception -exhibit but little fumptuous furniture. All the aftifans are'foreigners. The moft precious article of the drefs of the ladies is a plaited rjgticoat of a gold or filver fluff of the old-fafhioned manufacture of Lyons. Monks and nuns are very numerous in this fet- tlement j and their manners are fufficiently profligate. The common people,are thievifh ; and the virtue of the meaner women is very ea- fy. The principal inhabitants are diftinguifhed by all theWirtues of the true Spanifti character. bJ .2C0.UN& THE WORLD. 1<) Balls and entertainments are not. unfrequent among them. The women are wont to cramp their feet by fmall fhoes, like thofe of China. They wear their hair, without powder, hanging in fmall braids, down their backs. . befide the petticoat, they wear on the body, a boddice or corfet of gold or filver (luff. Over this, are worn a. muffin and a woolen cloak •, the muk .lin cloak at all times ; the woolen cloak only when in the ftreets or the fields. Thefe.females are, in general, pretty andr polite.. The Indians of Chili-have become much more formidable as enemies, than when this region was firft conquered by the Spaniards... The horf- es, oxen, and fheep, which the Spaniards introduced, have multipUcdthroughout South America, to immenfe numbers.. ^The Indians have become mafters of flocks and herds. They are ever on horfeback, and in arms. They journey, with theu\herds,in continual excurfions through the defarts. They are now a.nation.of warlike cavalry like the ancient. Tartars of the north of Afia. They cover themfelves with the fkins of their cattle, feed upon their milk and flefh, and even drink their warm blood. Thefe circum^ (lances, in their altered mode of life, make it not difficult for them to collect |rmies, even of many, tfioufands of men, to oppofe the Spaniards. From the Spaniards in the fettlement of Conception, our navigators experienced a warmly hofpitable reception. Scarcely had the frigates anchored at Talcaguana, wherr M. de la Peyroufe received a polite letter of welcome, accompanied with refrefhments of all forts in great abundance, from M. Quexada, who, in the ab*> fence of Major-general Higgins, commanded at C I • # *^. LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE the town of Conception. The firft care of tKei French captain, was to give orders for the refitt-j ing of the veflels, and to fee that the aftronom- icai clocks and quadrants fhould be carefully de-j pofited on fhore. The day following, Meffrs. de la Peyroufe and de Langel, with feveral ofj the fubordinate officers and of the men of fcienee, fet out for Conception, on a vifit to M.j .Quexada, and their other kind inviters. A detachment of dragoons efcorted them on theirs journey. They alighted at the hcufe of M.j Sabatero, commandant of the artillery. They were entertained with an excellent dinner. In) the evening, there was a ball, at which the principal ladies of the town Were prefent, and which | lafted till midnight. The Trench gentlemen flept for the night in apartments provided for them in the houfe of M. Sabatero, and of fome others of the principal inhabitants of the town. On the next day they vifited the bifhop, and others of the principal citizens. The bifhop they? found to be a man of uncommon merit. Major-general Higgins was abfentupon an expedition againft the Indians. Upon his return, he came iriftantJy to wait upon-the French gentlemen at Talcaguana. M. de la Peyroufe, foon after, gave an entertainment, in a tent pitched by the fea-fide, to an hundred and fifty of the gentlemen and ladies of Conception. After the dinner, the company were entertained with fire- works and the flight of a paper-balloon. On the following day, the commanders gave, in the fame tent, a feftive entertainment to the crews of the two frigates. They fat, all at one table *, Meffrs. de la Peyroufe and de Langel at. the head \ the reft: dpwn to the lowed (ailor, ROUND THE WORLD* 3& every one according to the rank he held. They ate out of wooden difhes : All was gaiety : And! every one felt himfelf far happier than on the day on which they left the harbour of Breft. Another entertainment given by General Hig- jgins, at the city of Conception, carried all the French gentlemen thither, exeept thofe officers wtio were detained on actual duty. The' dinner was fumptuous : Ail the principal inhabitants of the city were prefent : Between the different courfes, a Francifcan monk of the company, recited fome extemporary verfes in the Spanifh language, on the happy amity then fub- fifting between the French and the SpanifiV nations. A ball formed the amufement of the evening, and was graced by the prefence of alt the ladies in their bed dreffes. Some officers in mafks, danced a very pretty ballet. In the mean time, the veffels were diligently refitted; iprovifions^wood, and water, were, with great alacrity, conveyed on board ; and the crew, having accomplifhed thefe duties before the day on which they knew that they were to fail, obtained the agreeable permiffion to di* vert themfelves for fome fhort time, alfo, on fhore. One of their time keepers was here found to have loft, on the mean movement of the fun, only at the rate of 3 J fee. a*day, jftnee their departure from Breft ; a difference of but half a fecond from its rate of Idaily movement at Breft—of a whole fecond from its movement at Teneriffe. Nothing but the moft perfect harmony reigned between the French crews, and the people of the colony, (during the whele ftay of the Frencji in this harbour. J a LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE On the 15 th of March, M. de la Peyroufe made the fignal to prepare to fail. J^Contrary winds, however,.detained them, till the 17th. About noon, on the 17th, a light breeze from the S. W. enabled them to leave the harbour. But, they were becalmed in a ftrongly fwelling fea, before they had advanced* more than two, leagues from its mouth. During the night, they were furrounded by whales, which, from their fpiracles, ejected water on board the (hips. But, no whale fifhery has ever been attempted in thefe feas. On the 19th, a foutherly wind enabled the frigates to affume,the direction to the ifland^Jof Juan Fernandez. They were,- however, difappointed in their attempt to find that ifle, on account of the inaccuracy of thofe authorities to which they trufted, in refpect to its pofition. On the 23d, they were in the South latitude of 39 deg. 28 min. and accords ing to their time-keepers in the Weft longitude of 85 deg. 51 min. On the 24th the wind fettled at Eaft 1 Nor did it vary 5 deg. till they came within 120 leagues of Eafter Ifland. On the 3d of April, in South latitude 27 deg. 5 min. and in \o \ deg. Weft longitude, the winds blew upon them from N. E. to S. W- On the 8th of April, at 2 o'clock in the afternoon, they came within fight of Eafter Ifland. The fea was then high.: The wind blew from the North ; and for the four preceding days, the winds had been continually- fhifting fey Weft, |om North to South. In. the night, th^>|rig- ates kept in a parallel direction to the coaft of Eafter Ifland, at three leagues diitance from it. At day-break, they fteersd for Cook's Bayt ROUND THE WRLD. 33 which is, of all thofe in the ifle, the beft fhel- tered from winds blowing from the Eaft. The iflanders foon faw their approach;" and, in e»$? noes, haftened out to meet them. —•m"^-~°^Hitflffirf-i-M'1---f m m. LA PEYROUSE'S VOYAGE" CHAP. III. Narrative of the Voyage continued] from their ar-\ rival at Eafter Ifland, on the Qth of April, 1786,//// their departure firom the Sandwich Ifiles, on the ift of June. Defcriptton of Eafter Ifiland, with fome particulars concerning thei Sandwich Ifiles. J[N Easter Island, Cock's Bay, the only harbour in thefe latitudes that is fheltered from trie £ail and South-Eaft winds, is fituate in 27 deg. 11 min. South Latitude, in in deg. 55 min. 30 fee. Weft Longitude. After doubling the two rocks at the fouthern point of the ifle, and coafting along at the diftance of a mile from the fhore, a (hip comes within fight of a fmall,- fandy creek. When this creek bears to it in the direction of Eaft by South, the two rocks being at the fame time hidden under the point -r anchorage will then be found in twenty fathoms water, with a fandy bottom, at a quarter of a league's diftance from the fhore. Early in the morning of the 9th of April, the French voyagers landed, with fomewhat of military parade, intended to ftrike with awe the minds of the lfl-j anders, who crowded round them. The coaft of the ifle, here, rifes to the height of about twenty feet above the level of the fea. From the fea-beach, the fiirface afcends with a gentle acclivity, for about 700 or 8co toifes, to the bafis of the interior hills. This (loping plain is covered with herbage fit for the pafture of cattle ; and over the grafs, fmooth, round ft ones, of a considerable fize, are carelefsly fca% ■ROUND THE WORLD. 35 t ered. The ifle is bare of wood, and without fpringsor firearms of water. The interior hills appear.-^) have been once the orifices of volca- noes long fince extinguithed.= Scarcely a tenth part of the ifland is under cultivation. The coaft is not known to abound with fifhes. Very few fowls are to be found on the ifle. The hills are covered with volcanic ftones. .The foil is a very fertile mould, compofed of the remains of vege- tables.;||».At the South end of the ifland is feen the crater of an extinguifhed volcano, in the form of a truncated cone, and of extraordinary extent, depth, and regularity. ||jj depth is, at lea ft, 800 feet: Its lower bafe forms a perfect circle : Its bottom is marfhy, and contains large pools of frefh water : Around the marfh are fome plantations of banana and mulberry trees. The cone is not only truncated, but inverted ; its upper being wider than its under circumference. A great breach appears to have been produced, of one third in the height of, the whole cone, ; to one tenth part of the breadth of its upper circumference. | The earth, and ftory fragments from the breach, have fallen down towards the; fea :. And grafs has fprung up, over the whole cone. At the bottom of the crater, in the marfh, ; v/ere feen fome terns. The uncultivated part , of the ifland is covered, up to the tops of the hills, with a coarfe grafs. &A few bufhes of the ! mimofa, the largeft branches of which were not : more than three inches in diamater, were the on- l.y wild ligneous plants to be feen. The people appeared to live difperfed in firiall fepa^ate communities ; each community occupying one common habitation ; perhaps culfir mating their diyifion of the ground, and enjoy- LA PEYR0USE S VOYAGE mgllts fruits in^pommon ; not very attentive,-*! may be, to the diftin£fions of chaftity, the purity of virgin innocence, or ^e fan&ity of the marriage-bed; obeying each, one chief; and depositing the bodies of their dead in one commfHI buryirtg-place. The whole population of the ifle may be about 2000 fouls. The men have reforted to the fea-fhqre, on the approach of (hips frqra Europe, in numbers fo much greater than thofe of the women by whom they were accompanied, that fome navigators have been led to imagine the proportion between the males and females to be very unequal in Eafter Ifland. But, vifits to the interior parts of the ifle, and to the houfes, have afforded ireafon for thinking, that the inequality cannot be at all, fuch as it was once fufpected to be. They have few or no domeflic animals.i^But^tiaey cultivate ^egita- bles for their means of fubfiltence, with fufficient neatnefs and Mil, although with no very lalori- ©us induftry. Their fields under cultivation, are regular oblong figures. Yams^potatoes^j bananas, are the vegetables which they commonly cultivate. It is probable that they dig holes ivith wooden flakes, and in thefe drop their feed- plants. They have no,means *>f cooking their vegetables with fire, for eating, otherwife than by heating a hole in the earth ; into which they tfeen put their yams or potatoes ; covering them with hot earth or (tones, and keeping them in this ftatey till they are fufficiently roafbed, to be fit for being eaten. One of their houfes, measured by M. de la Peyroufe, was found to be in the form of a canoe reverfed 31© feet in length ; -10 feet broad; and, at the middle, 1© feet in la^ht|f$ttch a houfe asthismay po/Sbly form, ROUND THE WORLD. 37 with the addition of one or two fmaller ones, seven a whole village. Pillars of lava, cut odt in a manner fufficiently ingenious and artificial, 18 ,inches in thicknefs, and of a due height, from the fides of thefe houfes, and fupport the roof. Between thefe pillars of ftone, are reeds, arranged with fuch (kill, as to form a fufficient defence againft rains. Holes bored in the pillars reoeive the ends of wooden poles, with which an arched roof is formed^! Over thefe poles is another thatching of reeds. Some of their lioufes are fubtssrranean, and of the fame form. They make cloth off&e bark of the mulberry- tree. But tfae drought feems toiiave greatly injured their plantations of thefe trees. Such as Hill remain, are farrounded \vith fences and do c&0t rife above three feet in height. They-know notfeowto form wellsand refervoirs,1 to fupply the natijfeal fcarcity of freflrwater under which they fuffer. But they have been even feen to drink the fea water like the Albatroffes, in a manner which feems to fay, that neceflity and habit can accuftom man to every thing. Their canoes are formed of very narrow planks^ '"which are only 4 or 5 feet in.length. ^For want of wood,they are, at prefent, net numerous, and muftprobahibbe- come ftiil fewer. Butithey fwim with wonderful ftrength and dexrerity, even in the moft tem- peftuous ftate of the feas. They will thus go, even to the diftance of two leagues from the ^hore, and wiH, in frolic, isltbofe thofe very places wfeere flie furf is feen to-bseak with the great- «ftifury. Befide their potatoes, yams, and bananas, they have lilewMe*lugar-canes, and a fmall grape-like fruit that grows upon the rocks on the fea^ihore. Whey cultivate alfo the*garden nigst* D 3S LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE £hade, for fome culinary purpofe, no doubt*- The ifland exhibits fome remains of human works, which feem to befpeak it to have been once inhabited by a numerous population, and thofe more capable of magnificent defigns than the prefent race. Terraces are here and -mere raifed is a manner fufficiently arSficial. On thefe terraces ftand fome gigantic bufts of human figures, the monuments of anceftors, or the flatues of fancied gods. The largeft of thefe xude bufts, being meafured by tltb French navigators, was found to be 14 feet 6 inches in height, 7 feet 6 inches in breadth acrofs the ihoulders, 3 feet in thicknefs round the belly, 6 feet broad and 5 feet thick, at the bafe. There is room to conjecture,' that, in more ancient times, this ifle was covered with wood; and, in confequence of the attraction which its woods exerted upon the moifture of the atmofphere, was furnifhed with fprings and dreams of wat&r.j In thofe times, its population might be more numerous than at prefent ; the fyftem of fubordi- narion might be different ; and the eafy condition of life, and the abundance of popul&ton, might encourage to works.of art, which, in the prefen»t impoverifhed date of thoifie, are no longer poffible. <c Or, if we may be permitted to *« make anexcurfion into the regions of conjec- sl ture ; do not the rude, coloffal (latues, and » the fublerraneous habitations of Eafter Ifland, B fo fimilar, in all refpects, to the caverns and « coloffal (latues of Ekphanta, of Bombay, and ti the other places in Hindoftan, befpeak at lead « this ifle to have received its firft inhabitants, fl in whatever mode of colonization, from the re- •«; gions of the ead, in that remote sera in wkk$ ROUND THE WORLD. ' the uncorrupted, unfubdued Hindoo cafts * were, as yet, matters of the oriental world ? * Can that ingenuity and dexterity in the arts, * which, the inhabitants of Eafter Ifland, amid s all the difadvantages of their fituation, difplay, s have originated in this narrow ifle ? Or is it c not more probable, that fome of the innume- * rable accidents of navigation rnuft haye at a < time as ancient as the expedition of the Gre- ( cian Alexander into India, conducted into 1 thefe feas fome voluntary fugitives, or acci- { dental outcafts from the extreme eaftern lim- 4 its of the Afiatic continent ? Does not every f thing concur to fhew, that the iiles interjacent j between Aiia and America muft have receiv- 1 ed their firft inhabitants from the Eaft ? Is c it not likely, that the Mexicans, the Puruvi- If^s, and the other inhabitants of South Amer- c ica, who were found thereby the Spaniards, <vmufthave been of Afiatic origin I Is it not fnatural, that, in circumftanccs extremely un- f fortunate, the firft occupiers of fuch a fpot as c Eafter Ifland ihould be unable to transfer thith- * er the arts of their native country, hi all that F perfection in which they were there pradhfed ? The Engliih colony at Botany Bay, the Span- i(h inhabitants of Chili, the Ruffians in Kamtf- chatka, the eternal, necefiities of the nature and circumftances of man, fufficiently-demon*- ftrate the poffibility of fuch a decline and degradation of the arts in their tranfmifiion from one country to another. To the exiftence of men in the favage ftate, it. is not neceffary that the firft parents of the race fhouki have been- favages. The accidents under which fuccef- five generations muft have been diffufed over 4<3 LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE m&' " the earth, were fufficient to produce any gifk; Ci en imperfection of knowledge and art, even " by no indirect derivation from any gisen excel- " lence of them." Thefe coiloffal ftatues can have been intended only as the images of fancied divinities, or as monumental ftatues of the dead. In the impoverifhed condition and the declining intelligence of the prefent Inhabitants of Efther Ifland, they are content jfiith the erec- tion of fmall pyramidal heaps of ftone over the graves of the deceafed. Thefe pyramids are white wafhed at the upper extremity, and appear to ferve for the fame ufes as the ancient terraces and coloffal image^fe^Such petty moi*- uments require not to their erection, more than one hour's work by a finglc man. W&ile the Fiench Villagers walked with fome of the natives amoitg their tombs,one of the latter,ftretch-- ing himfelf at length upon the ground, and, in this pOfture, raifing his hands towards the fky, thus endeavoured toffcdicate, as the Frenchmen infer, a belief of the exiftence of the fouls of the departed after death, and of their exaltation to ^rftate of fuperior bleflednefs above. In their intercourfe with their French vifitors, thefe ift- anders difcovered a deceit incomparably artful, and an incorrigible propensity to theft. At the "moments at which they were receiving the pre- fents of the French, and wore the air of being the mod kindly interefted in their attentions, at thofe very moments were they always the mod certainly contriving or perpetrating fome theft. They offered their women for proftitution, in a manner which (hewed that they were aware of the value of chaftity as a virtue, and were bafely willing to barter it for gain. They even offered &OUN© THE WORLD. 4*1 far ptoditution young girls, under the ageof puberty, whofe cries fhewed their own reluctance,, and whom the French, with generous delicacy,, fparecbfrorn the horror of violation. On t|iis ifle, and among thefe people, the' French landed, on the 9th of April, in the year 1786. A company of 400 or 500 iflanders ^jggpeived them on the fhore with eager joy* Some wore pieces of white or yellow fluff; oth~ ers were naked : many were tattooed and painted with red colours on the face, i The firft care of the ftrangers, was, to form an inclofure, from tnd^ich a circular line of armed foldiers excluded the accefs of the natives. Prefents, beneficient— ly deflated to gratify the defires of thefe rude, people, and to enrich the barrennefs of their ifle, were then brought on fhore. Meanwhile, the. numbers ©f the ftirrounding natives continuaU|r? cncreafed. Forbidden to fire upon them, the foldiers found it extremejy difficult to keep them at a due diftance with t;.e butt ends of their muf- kets. Innumerable little artifices were put in- practice hy the Indians, in order to deceive tlie attention of their vifitors, whHe they accomplifh-- ed their thefts with a dexterity worthy1 ofthe mod notorious thief that ever prowled, in. Paris ?©rf London. When the women foliated-the- embraces of the French, the men, in concert, feizecL thofe moments, to rob them of their hats ancL handkerchiefs* Some, who were fuppofed to- poffefs the authority of chiefs, while they (hewed a readinefs to purfue the thieves, and to recover the articles (lolen, were foon perceived to purfue them only thst they might favour their efcape. The voyagers were not to rematn for. more than ten hours on the ifland. Meffrs. de |p% 4-2 LA; PEYROUSE S VOYA&E m *?' Peyroufe and de Langel, therefore, committed the charge of the tent, the goods, and the failors a«€ foldiers on fhore, to M. de'Efcflres, fi^fe lieutenant in La Bouffole ; and themfelves proceeded on excurfions through the ifle. One party, under the command of M. de Langel, were to penetrate as far as poffibJe in the interior parts, to fow the feeds of vegetables, and to examine the foil, plants, population, &c—while another, at the head of which was Pf. de la Peyrofefe, went to vifit the monuments, terraces, plantations, and houfes, within a femi-circutl$F fpace of the radius of a league round the central point at ■which the tent was fixed. The refults of $*eir obfervations have been detailed i# the preceding paragraph. At one o'clock in the afternoon, M. de la Peyroufe returned to the tent. Many thefts had been committed in his abfence. He Iximfelf was robbed of his hat, by an Indian who had aflifted him in com^^dd^n from a terrace. He made a collection of lpecimens of the different lavas, the only forts of dones in thp ifle. M. de Langel likewife returned foon after.#fie had wandered far into the ififterior parts of the ifle ; had vifited the volcanic crater; had paffed near feveral villages ; had admired the cultivation of the fields ; had fown feeds of the orange, the lemon, and the cotton-tree, of maize, and other fpecies of plants, fuchjts feemed likely to thrive in the foil and climate of this ifle. The i&tives were fufiicientiy fagacious to comprehend the intention with ^#fech fhefe feeds were fown, and to point out to the beneficent fowert tfeofe fpots which promifed to be the mod ftpfe vourable to their growth. Goats, (heep, and hogs, were, at the fkrn$$fone left-by the Frenei r^ ROUND THE WORLD. 43 in the i&$^' €fcnceming- the goats, M. de la Peyroufe had hopes thai$ they might furviye and multiply 1$ he was doubtful that the fheep and [Jhogs might quickly peiifli. In the evening of the fame day, the French voyagers went again on board their fhips. On the day following, they took their departure out of Cook's bay ; flood to the northward, and failed along, at the diftance of a league from tfee fhore. At two o'clockfeon the nth, they loft fight of the ifle, and were about 20 leagues diftant from its coaft. They were failing to explore, fird, the North Wed coad of America. They deered onwards in a northern direction. Until the 17th the pjnd blew condarftly from the two points of S. E. or E. S. E. ' Till the &ind (hSfed toE. N. E. the fkies continued'clear and ferene. From the 17th to the $©th, it blew in this lad dice&ion. On the 20th they began to take bonetas, fhoals 48? which continued to follow the frigates to the Sandwich ifles, and for fix weeks fuppiled, ahnod daily, abundance for the &fe of the whole Hiip's crews at table. After being 10 months at fea, and out of this period only 25 days in port, they had not a (ingle per- blMitw&n either df■■ the veflels : and not one of their number had as yet perifhed either by accident or difeafe. In the teiaaown (eas, in vK&ich mey nowifeiled, they looked aimod every mo-> ment with curious anxiety, around them, for fome new difeovery. Dagelet,-4ie adronomer, neglected no opportflfiity of making the lunar bbfervatfiOfis, and thefe tended dill to confirm Hieir confidence in their time-keepers. M. de LanoePs ©Mervltttons and calculations were con*. finned with the fame care, md were alike fati^ 44 Lk PEYROUSE S VOYAGE. fa&ory. The daily differences betweeffi the Longitude by obfervatio«$! and the Longitude by account, (hewed the degree of that force by w%ich the fet of the currents*affected the flitpfe- eourfe. Thefe carried them one degree to the S. W. at the rafe^Rneariy 3 k&gue#in 24 hours. Then changing to the E. they ran with equal rapidity, till our voyagersTound themfiilves in 7 deg. ife Here ihe currents again took their eourfe to the weftwardfl When the (hips ainriv* ed al the Sandwich ides, the Longitude by ac-> count was found to differ nearly 5 deg. from the Longitude by obfervation : a difference com- menfurate with the influence of Ae cu^ents. In this eourfe, the vigilance of M. de la Peyroufe was continually awake. He was pat&cu- larly attentive to afcertain the fact of the exiftence of that clufter of rfles, which the Spaniards pretend to have difcovered in thefe latitudes, and which they have named La Mesa, Los Ma* jos, La Disgraciada. Every refearch and calculation, at lad, confpired to convince him, thai fuch ifles have no exiftence diftin£l from that of %e Sandwich Isles. It is remarkable that the Englifh navigator, DtckfonV who, in the yean r 7 8f> and 1787, likewife failed in tferife-latitiades making the fame refearisbes, was led to draw $4 fame conclufion. Cook, howeveiJthe true dif coverer of the Sandwich Ifles, ha^ neither idens tified the Spanifh iflands with his own, nor ye expl-dcd them from tile map. On the 7th o May, in 80 deg. N; Lat. numbers of petrefe, o« man-of-war birds, and of tropic birds, began & ilover. round the two fftgatosi Turtles, abou die fame time, paffed near, fo that L, Aftpolabi caught two of them. Till the 14th, the fam; ROUND T<HE WORtDi 11 OOmpanions continued to attend their eourfe. pl^nay be, that in this part of their progrefs, thefe voyagers paffed fome rock or ujjfnhabited ifle, the haunt of thefe animals, without perceiving it. They paffed near the fituatjpns of Roc- ca Partida and La Nublada, yet without coming in fight of thefe iflands. After they had croffed thei latitude of Rocca Partida. the birds difappeared. j|?On the 15th of May they were in 19 deg. 17 min.$J. Lat. in 130 deg. W. Long. Here, if any where, was the latitude of the pretended Spanifh ifle%. Sailing down 200 [leagues.on this paralle«y$night have been infuf- aieient £© expiode the fancy of their exiftence. jBu.t M. de la Peyroufe continued his eourfe tilt he had failed over the precife fituations in which thofe iflands were faid to lie ; and at length, on the morning of the 28th of IjjSay, came within fight of the mountains of the iflanjis of Owhy- ■HEE, white with fno]%^|3?he hills of Mowee, ifomewhatfctiower, foon after appeared within' w$ew. On the morning of the 29^ they prepared to enter4lhe channel between thefe two ifles. The wind blew with confiderable activity ; and they ran at th^ate o^lwo leagues an hour. It was the wifj&fof M. de la Peyroufe, to explore the coaft as far as Morokinne, and to anchortffeear that ifle, in a ftation to the leeward ofiMowEE. The 4$anders had already marked their approach; and about 150 canoes were on their way from the fhore, T^jth fruits and hogs, to traffick with the Europeans for iron. But-the frigates found it inconvenient fo tofihor- \pen faiktf&iiiX the canoes mighri^pafily overtake them. In, the attempt, many of the canoes wene overfet; only 15 hogs, with a fmall quantify of m ■!. A6 LA PIYROUSE'S VOYAGE fruits, could be procured for the&fe of the frigates : and the Indians and the French failors were fir a time alike difappointed. It was amu-. fing to fee how the Indians, wl|fn their veffels were overfet: took their hog&in their arms, and. their canoes, emptied of the water, on the^j fhoulders ; and thus fwimmed about juft as<gai|tf as they had rowed. Having fleered S. W. by W. as far as the S. W. point of Mowee, M. de la Peyroufe thenfiood W* and N. W. to gain the fituation in which he propofed to cad anchjipsj L'Aftrolabe already rode at anchofdthere. The* depth of the water was 23 fathoms ; the bottom a very hard grey fand ; the diftance from thei fhore about one third of-a league. But thfi^an- chorage was very imperfectly dickered from the $?inds ; and thefe perpetually fhifted. It wasj neceffary to chufe a fafer and more co^enienti fituation. They moved nearer to the fhore ; and were obliged to delay their landing on the iile< till the day foilo^ang. The night was almod unalterablyj^alm. At day-break, on the fcllotN . n * ing morning, febe^r fought new anch^lo^e in a very deep bay, N. W. fromiBhe|P«formetf&ationv But this proved little better than the former. The ifland of Movjee isi fituate nearly in 21 Aeg. N. Lat. in 15 5 deg. W* Long^b Its appeall iwice is djetightfbl. It proje£ts|nto the channel in tfce direftion of S. W. bi^W. Hills tower up to a considerable elevation in. the interior anei of the ifle. A narrow ilanting plain, fcarcely half a league in breadth, furrorindsthe bafes of thefe hills ; and defcends to the fea-*beach. Froia the heights copious waters are feen, almoft every where, to defcend in ftreams, of which t&fe| eourfe prefents a variety of cafcades ; and, after ROUND THE WORLD. 47 Watering the numerous plantations of the natives., to fall gently i^to the fea. The hills are clothed with a rich and lively verdure. Banana trees, in great numbers, furround tire habitations : and fo abundantf% the population, that a fpace of three or four leagueij&iay be taken, at a firft view, for one continued village. Such is the firft afpe£l of this ifle, to navigators approaching at fome fmall diftance. Nearer the groupes begin to be broken and didperfed -; and -Objects Unpleafing or unintereftkig are intermin- j gldoJIvitlptfiofe which, more remotely feen, pre- I feared but one affemblage of the beautiful and the drMting^jr pi&urefque. The foil of the ifle is wholly formed of lava and other vofcanic mat* pttts comminuted or decompofed. Hogs, ba- | nanas, potatoes, are the principal objects which the hufbandry of the natives cultivate for their fubfiftence. (ffl the bark of the paper-mulberry tree, they manufacture large quantities of rckfllfci They cover the floors of their houfiii with mats of a confiderably ingenious texture, Large calabaihes, united by means ofa glue capable of refifting moiflure, varnifhed, moulded I into various forms, and ornamented with figures which are (ketched upon them in black, ■ form one of the mod elegant and commodious | artieles of this people's kitchen utenfils. The hoaies are low ftraw-feiilt huts, not unlike to rthofe of our pooreft peafants ; the roof nearly in the form of an ifofodes triangle; the door, at the gable end, not more than three feet and an hail in height; acceflible only to a perfon ftoop- i ing, and fattened but by a fitigle latch. When the torrents from the mountain^ fail, brackyft F water from (hallow wells is the only refit^rce of MM ■ft 48 LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE the inhabitants of Mowee for drink. Here, as in the other iflands of the South Sea, the defi*j cate fan<9Kty of female chaftity appears to be Un-i known and unvalued. But the female form is here invefted with few of the graces or elegancies, even of rude lavage beauty ; and the ven|*J real difeafe, however introduced, has made ravages the moft terrible and the moft univerfal. The people of Mowee, with thofe of the other Sandwich ides, have been accufed of the horrid practice of offering human facrifices, to propitiate their deities, and of delighting themfelves occafionally to feaft on limbs which were once warm with human life. The Engtjfh navigators appear to have eftablifhed this fact, which it is fo painful to believe, upon evidence too drong to be refided. La Peyronie, with a gentlenefsJ and benignity, which would gladly vindicate human nature from the charge of the mod^Tavage crime by which it can be degraded, has endeal voured too ineffectually to convince us that can- nibalifm is here unknown,. From the kindneli| of thofe Europeans, by whom they have been, at different times, v&ted, thefe ifles have derived^ fupplies of our moft valuable domedic animals ; bulls, cows, goats, ewes and rams. Trees from many different countries have&een here planted; and the feeds of the mod ufeful vegetables fown. Iron, and the mod ufeful implements of induf- try, have been introduced. A fubordinStiojl fubfifts, by which the chiefs and priefts enjoy aid abfolute power. The canoes framed wkh out-} riggers ; each, in the common fize, about 24j feet in length, 1 foot broad, 1 foot deep 5 capa-j ble of holding from three to five men ; yet not! exceeding 50 or 60 pounds in weight \ and cm- ^TW TKOUN43 THE WORLD, 49 ployed 4n couffes of navigation to the extent even of" 6© leagues,; difplay very extraordinary ingenuity, both in their ufe and ftructure. Yet the arts, in general, are here in a flate lower than that in which they appear in Eafter Ifland ; and. a long time muft, in all probability, elapfe, before the fciences, the rectitude of moral intelligence, the beneficial civil policy, and that happy improvement of the agricultural and the mechanic arts—which diftinguifhed civilized mankind from favages and barbarians—can be ef- I tablifhed among the native inhabitants of Mo- I wee *>r Owhyhee. In their intercourfe witji the French, thefe people fhowed an unteazing, unprovoking gentlenefs, an honefty little prone to^theft, a fagacious caution, and yet a fairnefs in commercial .dealing, by which they were very advantageoufly diftinguifhed from the inhabitants of Eafter Ifland. They were, in particular, careful, in the fail of their hogs and fruits, not to fpoii the market by offering large quantities, at once, to the purchafers, but to produce hog after hog, and one fmall quantity of bananas and potatoes flowly after another, that the eager- nefs of the buyers, and, by confequence, the > prices, might dill bekept up. It was on the 22d of May 1786, that ourvoy- l-agers landed on this* ifle. They happened to come on (hore in a place towards which none of thofe dreams of water defcended, which they jhad feen at a didance. Their landing was ef- i fectcd in four boats; in the two foremod of which were 2© armed foldiers under the com- jmandof Lieutenant de Pierrevert, while M. ! de Langle, with fuch officers and paflengers as were not by duty-detained on board* went in the So LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE <J m other two. An hundred and twenty perfons, men and women, awaited their approach on the fhore. The firft care of the French, after land-. ing, was, to difpofe the foldiers, with bayonets fixed, around a fpace which they referved for themfelves, fecluding from it all accefs of the Indians. At this thefe gentle people teftified neither fear, provocation, nor furprize. Two Indians, who appeared to have an authority over the reft, addreffed them in grave fpeeches of fome length, and offered each a prefent of an hog. The prefents were accepted ; and in return, medals, hatchets, and other pieces of iron, to them in- eftimably precious, were liberally bellowed. T he women made offer of their favours, in which, however, there was but little allurement. * Having firft vifited the village, M. de la Peyroufe, with the gentlemen accompanying him, then made an excurfion farther into the ifle, under the protection of a ferjeant's guard of foldiers. The refult of their obfervat ions has been exhibited in the paragraph irrnriediateJy foregoing. They had left their fhips at 8 o'clock in the morning ; at 11 in the forenoon they re-embarked in their boats ; at noon ihey arrived again .onboard the fhips. During their abfence, a chieftain, of confiderable confequence, had vifited the (hips; and had fold to thofe on board, a cloak and helmet elegantly ornamented with red feathers, with various articles of provifion, and other fpecimens of the implements of thefe ifl- anders. Strong gales now blew on them from the fouth-eaft. Both the frigates were forced to drag their anchors; and it was fo/ne time before they could even hoift their boats on board. At | in the afternoon, they had weighed up their ROUMD-THE world. 5» anchors. Till 8 o'clock, the breezes blew fo faintly, that their progrefs was not more than half a league. The wind at laft fettled in the N. E. The frigates then took their eourfe to the weft ward; and paffed in the middle between the ifles of Tahoorowa and Ranai. At daybreak, they ftretched towards the S. W. extremity of the ifland of Morotoj. They entered the open fea by that channel which divides Morotoj from Wohaoo. On the ift of June, at 6 o'clock in the evening, they had left all thefe |ifles behind them. That fhoal of bonetas which rliad followed them for 1500 leagues, from the I vicinity of Eafter Ifland as far as thefe Sandwich Elites, now difappeared. n v 52 LA PEYROUSE'S VOYACE CHAP. IV. Narrative of the Voyage continued, from the rft. of- June Iy8d, to the beginning of Auguft ': including the Courfe from the Sandwich Ifiles to Fort de Frangois, with its TranfaBions, Difcoveries, and Misfortunes. ^TJR voyagers now directed their courfe northward. Want of water and other fuitable provifions, foon obliged them to,kill and cure with fait the'hogs which they had procured from Mowee. On the 6th of June, when they had arrived in the §o deg. of N. Lat. the winds fhifted from E. to S. E. The fkies now affum- ed a dull, whitifh afpe£l. iglt appeared that the frigates had pafled the fphere of the trade-winds^ and that weather lefs favourable than they had hitherto enjoyed, was now to be expected. On the 9th of June, while they failed in 34 deg. N. Lat. they began to be furrounded with fogs. Till the 14th of the fame month, when they had reached the 41 deg. N. Lat. thefe fogs continued to obfcure the horizon. The inceffant drizzling rains alarmed M. de la Peyroufe for the health of the failors. He therefore ordered floves with burning coals, to be placed under the halfrdeck and between the decks ; gave every failor and foldiet a pair of boots : and re-* ftored the flannel under-vefts and drawers, which he had made his people lay afide, and had kept in referve, ever fince they left the feas adjacent to Cape Horn. Upon the judgment of the fur- geon, there was likewife fecretly mingled with i the grog which the crews had at breakfaft, a flight infufion of Peruvian bark, adapted,!© P£0- • .; ROUND THE WORLD. S3 duce effects eonfiderably falutary, without fen- fibly affeCling the tafte of the liquor. The hap- pieft fuccefs, fortunately, attended the ufe of thefe precautions. The formation of a corn- mill was another thing of important utility,. which, about this time, gave employment to lome of the voyagers. In their ftores, they had taken on board, inftead of flour and bifcuit,. merely corn dried in the kiln. To convert this into meal, they poffeffed only inftruments like the querns of the Scotifh Highlands. With thefe, only a very fmall quantity of meal could be every day prepared ; and to obtain even that, required an operofe toil, which was found extremely irkfome. The inventive genius of fflL de Langle, affifted by one of the failors, who had formerly been a millar's boy, contrived, firft to adapt to their querns, fails by which a wind-mill was produced. Afterwards, a handle, iwith the mechanical powers of thefcrew, was jadvantageoufiy preferred. Flour was now obtained in great abundance: and this was as much better than that which they had before been able to manufacture, as the fineft ordinary flour is better than the coarfeft common bran. On the 14th of June, the wind changed from S. E. to W. S. W- They were enabled to obferve,, in general, that when the winds varied only in fome few degrees from W. to N. the fky became generally clear, and the fun enlightened the horizon ; that drizzling rains were wont to fall, while the winds varied from W. toS. W. : that fogs, with a moifture which wetted every thing, without being perceived to fall, accompanied the Winds of that range of points fromS. W*byS* £. to £. 54 LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE; They were now advancing to a part of: tiieJ American coaft, which, with the exception of port of Nootka alone, was but juft feen by Commodore Cook. One of the moft ufeful at» tempts they could make, was, to explore the tract between Mount St. Elias, and Port- I Monterey. Unluckily, M. de la Peyroufe could appropriate to this fervice only two or three months. Proceeding northward, arid approaching the American coaft, they began to ob- ferve fea-weeds float by by ; the fpecies of which was abfolutely unknown to them.. Among thefe was ahead equal in fize to an orange, not I unlike to an onion, the ftalk of which has run to feed, and itfelf terminating a ftalk 40 or 50 fe§t in length. Vaft whales, divers, wild geefe,. about the fame time appeared around them. From thefe fignals, they knew that land was - nigh. At 4 o'clock on the morning of the 23d, the fogs, fuddenly clearing away, permitted them to difcover a long range of fnow-covered mountains. Among thefe they could diftinguifhr Mount St. Elias, rearing its top above the clouds. This dreary coaft was feen without exciting thofe pleafing emotions which men who have been long at lea are wont to feel when they come fird': within fight of land. All was here defolatiort^ and barrennefs, without trees, without verdure, exhibiting nought but huge and endlefs piles of fhow.|§From the height of the mountains, the land appeared to defcend towards the fea. The waves broke at the fhore, againft a perpendicular ledge of black rocks, the front elevation of which might be about 15© or 206 fathoms. Such was the appearance of the coaft feen front a diftance. Approaching nearer, cur voyagers ROUND THE WORLD. 55 perceived iflands like hills overfpread with trees, lifing into view in front of the higher ground,, which alone they had, at firft, obferved. The wind, however, fuddenly changing from an eaf- tern to a fouthern direction, the iky becoming dark and black on that quarter of the horizon : and they were thus prevented from taking that near and diftinct furvey, which they wifhed, of this part of the coaft. At noon, from an obfervation, and from their time-keepers, they found themfelves to be in $9 deg. 2* min. N. Lat. and in 143 deg. 23 min. W. Long. TheJ^nd was hidden by a thick fog, during the whole of the 25th. On the 2©th, the weather became fair ; and at 2 o'clock in the morning of that day, the coaft, with all its windings, appeared clearly in view. A broad level tract of land extended in front of the mountains. A low point, covered with trees, feemed to join that tract, and to terminate at a fmall diftance^ Conceiving that the broad level tract, with the lower wooded point by which it feemed to be terminated, might be an ifland divided by an arm of the fea from the towering mountains beyond ; they ttfrf||d their courfe towards that point; and continuing to found with the lead while they failed, found the leaft depth of the water to be 45 fathoms, with a muddy bottom. During the forenoon, the breezes had blown but lightly, with a variation from W. to N. At two in the afternoon, a calm made it neceffary for the frigates to come to anchor. Their fituation, at noon, was in 59 deg. 41 min. N.. Lat. in 133 deg. 3 min. W. Long* Boats had been difpatched to furvey the bare channel, which was conceived to lie between the fuppofed ifland and the continent* Diftant ofe^ 56 LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE fervation had fuggefted that the water ftowed*in that channel, very fmooth, and that the motion of the current was at the rate of about half a league an hour to the S. S. W. Thefe indications might feem to prove; that if no channel intervening, between an ifland and a continent; here was at leaft the mouth of fome great river* Every appearance foon concurred to foretel approaching foul weather. The mercury had fallen remarkably in the barometer during the lad twenty-four hours. The fky was now black and darkjl Fears began to be entertained for the boats3L But, about 9 o'clock in the evening, thefe returned in fafety. The report of the officers who had gone in them, Meffrs de Monti,., de Vaujuas, and Boutin, raSher contradicted than confirmed thofe conjectures which had been made, at a diftance, concerning the coaft. They had found neither river nor channel, but only a fort of femi-circular creek, the foundings in which indicated 30 fathoms water, with a muddy bottom ; but which could afford no fhelter. from any of the winds blowing between the S. S. W>and the E. S. E. poiatsof the com- pafs. The more was covered with drifted wood* The fea broke upon S& with fuch violence, that M. de Monti, the officer commanding the boats, had very great difficulty in effecting a landing- M. de la Peyroufe, in compliment to M. de Monti, named the creek De Monti's Bay. An Englifh voyager, Dickfon, vifited this fame part of the American coaft in the year following*!* His narrative of his voyage makes it probable, that the conjecture of La Peyroufe was nearer to the truth than the obfervations of his. officers. The Port Mvlgrave of Dickfcn? ROUND THE WORLD. differs in pofition but by a few minutes of Longitude and Latitude from the bay of De Monti. It mould feem that the miftake of the French officers muft have arifen from their trufting too haftily to the firft appearances at the mouth of the bay ; and from their hence neglecting to penetrate fufficiently far towards its bottom. Soon after the return of his boats, M. de la Peyroufe turned the courfe of the frigates from the coaft 'r failing towards the S. E. under a breeze which arofe with confiderable brifknefs from the N. W. The wind, after man^ variations, blew atlaft for 24 hours, ftrong and flea- i dy, from the E. The night was foggy, yet calm. I On the 28th of June in 59 deg. 19 min. N. Lat. in 142 deg. 41 min. W. Long, the weather became more moderate. A heavy fog now hung ; upon the Coaft. But the mercury began to rife in the barometer ; and expectations of ftill fair- \ er weather were naturally excited. The courfe of the frigates was ftill fouthward along the coaft. At 5 o'clock in the evening, they were but 3 leagues from land, with a muddy bottom.. Onthe 29^they were in 59 deg. 20 miakN. Lat. in 142 deg. 2 min. W. Long, in the,.c6urfe ' of 24 hours their progrefs had been deflected 24 miles to the eaftward. Even amid the fogs, they could at intervals perceive the low-lands of the i coaft, from which they had never been farther ; than 4 leagues diftant. Their foundings were now regularly from 60 to 70 fathoms, with a muddy bottom. They fuppofed themfelves to j be but 5 or 6 leagues eaftward from the Behr- ing's Bay of Cook. They fet their fails for the ; land ; and approached it under a very light breeze from W. SEW. A bay feemed to open 58 LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE before them ; but when they came nearer, they could fee, that what they had I fuppofed a bay, was nothing but the abrupt meeting of high with low lands at the coaft. They eaft anchor where there was 30 fathoms depth of water, with a muddy ground. The boats of the two frigates, under the command of Meffrs. de Clonard and Marchainville, were fent out to explore the coaft. They found at the mouth #f a great river discharging itfeif into the fea, by two not incon- fiderable channels, a fandy bank, which rofe to a level with the water. For five or fix hours, they fought for an entrance into thefe channels. But, both were fhut up by the fandy bars, again ft which the fea broke with fuch force, that it was impoffible for the boats to approach them. Beyond the fand-basks, indeed, within the channels, they could perceive fmoofh water in a ba- fon of two leagues in length, and feven leagues in breadth. Smoke, befpeaking the country to be inhabited, was alfo feen on the fhore. There can be no doubt,, but that: which appeared to the French voyagers to be the mouth of a great river, is the Behring's Bay of Cook,JJ La Peyroufe gave it the name of Behring's River* It is not impoffible, but that, fmce the French voyager approached nearer to the land than the Englifh, the former may be more correct, in affirming the exiftence of the mouth of a river here, than is the latter, when he fpeaks merely of a bay. From this fcene, the two frigates failed along the land at two or three leagues diftance from it ; and under a light breeze from the W. With the afliftance of their per- fpective giaffes they could fee people on the fhore. But the fea was reverberated from the ROUND THE WORLD. 5? ^ach in thofe tremenduous billows to which the failors gave the name of breakers ; and of which the overwhelming fury rendered all landing in thefe fcenes utterly impoffible. At noon, on the 2d of July, in 58 deg. 36 min. N. Lat. in 140 deg. 31 min. W. Long, they found themfelves oppofite to Mount Fairweather, at.two leagues diftance from the land. They difcovered, at 2 o'clock in the afternoon of the fame day, at a place fomewhat eaftward from Cafe Fairweather, a retroceffion of the coaft, which was gradually perceived to retire inwards, fo as to form a fine bay. Towards that bay they immediately directed their courfe. Three boats were difpatched to examine it. A reef of rocks, about 300 toifes in length, with a fuf- ficiently acceffible opening at one end, contiguous to a point of the continent, was feen to protect this bay from the tumultuous billowings of the waves of the open fea beyond. Within this reef of rocks, the waters were calm and fmooth. Of the inlet at its one end, the depth was found to be in the middle, 7 or 8 fathoms ; at the diftance of 20 toifes from either fide, c fathoms. The depth within the bay was 10 or 12 fathoms, with a fafe bottom. Satisfied of thefe particulars, by the information of the-.of- ficers who had gone in the boats, M. de la Peyroufe refolved to conduct the frigates into tj£ bafon. At 7 o'clock in the evening, they w&re before the inlet: but the winds blew faintly, and the tide was then ebbing with an impetuofi- ty of current, in oppofition to which the (hips were nf>t able to advance. During the night, they waited near without cafting anchor. In the morning, new obfervations, made by the of- SmSijilj; \i m f LA PEYROUSE'S VOYAGI ficers of L}Aftrolabe, encouraged them all to te- new their attempts to enter. After fome diffi-| culties, the flowing tide carried both the frigates] into the bay ; forcing them into a pofition within half a piftol (hot of rocks, on which almoftj the fmalleft movement farther would have fhat-1 tered them in pieces. They both eaft anchoij at half a cable's length from the fhore ; and in] three fathoms and a half water, with a rocky! bottom. Once or twice La Bouffole flightlji touched the rocks with her keel; fortunately, however, without fuffering the fmalleft damage.] During 30 years experience in navigation, MJ de la Peyroufe had never feen two (hips fo near! to being loft, and yet efcaping from the danger.] But it was not immediately poffible to move tfroml their prefent pofition to fafer anchoring ground. After a fliort time, an excellent bed of fand was found at four cables length of diftance from! their firft fituation, with 1© fathoms of water over it: at a farther diftance into the bay, no bottom could be found, even at 60 fathoms, ex-j cept at half a cable's length from the fhore, "where was a muddy bottom under 30 fathoms water. At the bottom of the bay was difcovercdj an ifland, near which there was anchorage in 20 fathoms depth of water, with a muddy bottom. On that ifle, abundance of wood lay ready cut) and carelefsly fcattered along the groundJ Streams of excellent water were precipitated inj cataracts from the mountains. Beyond the ifle, the fea was covered with blocks of ice ; and the entrances of two extenfive channels were difcovered at a diftance. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon, the frigate, La BouffoJe, was 'Warped in upon the above mentioned bed of ItOUND THE VhOKLD. 61 fand. L'Aftrolabe, with betterAiccew, gained at once.the ancliorage adjacent tb the ifle. On the day following, a light breeze from the S. E. enabled La Bouflole, with theaffiftance of the boats, to join her. To the whole bay, a bay of which thefe navigators were the firft difcover- ers, M. de la Peyroufe gave the name of Port be Francois. On the continent adjacent to Port de Francois, inhabit fome favage tribes, with whofe exiftence and manners our voyagers had now an opportunity of becoming acquainted : They appeared to worfhip the Sun. With the fpeech- es, in their moft folemn tranfa£lions, was, occasionally, intermingled a plaintive mufic, not unlike to the Pfalm tunes of the Chriftian wor- fhip ; or to thofe fweet melancholy airs, which ptjhre nnderftood to conftitute the better part of the native mufic of the Scots. Dancing to the founds of their own voices likewife accompanies fome of their moft folemn tranfactions. They fub- •fift partly by fifhing, in part by hunting. They j are acquainted with t!Te ufe of iron ; and have, by various means, either in direct intercourfe with Europeans, or by tranfmiffion through intermediate hands, acquired confiderable quantises of it. That amphibious animal, the fea- otter, is the conftant object of their hunting purfuit. It receives from them the name of SkeBer. Its weight, at its full growth, |snay be about 70 pounds. Its fkin furnifhes a very valuable fur. Thefe fay ages were underftood by their French vifitors, to have their habitations at feme diftance on the continent, yel often to refortto the ifle nigh which the frigates. Jay at jonchoi". A tomb* which fome Frenchmen had 6a LA PJmt€TCJSE S VOYAGB an -opportunity of examining, . fhowed thefe -Americans to have the cuftom of burning the the bodies of their dead.?f The head alone is preferved unburnt,, and carefully wrapped up in* a number of fkins. For the monument, a fmall wooden chamber is elevated on four poles. The head with the afhes are depofited in a coffin, and placed within that chamber. The canoes, in which thefe Indians adventure upon the fea, are formed each of the trunk of a tree, hollowed, raifed at the fides by planks which are fewed iM its bottom, having, like our boats, timber and wales,well executed in the woodwork, and covered over with feal fkins, fewed together with; admirable clofenefs and nicety. In winter, while they truft to the chace for the means of fubfiftence, they are often unavoidably liable to perifh by famine.-Min fummer, the falmons of the rivers form the principal article of their food: and thefe they takewith eafe and in an abundance which makes it poffible for- them to be idle and gluttonous to any degree they pleafe»|f Gaming is the frequent amufemc^t of their indolence ; and they run into all its word mifchiefs, with mod furious and mod perfevering ardor of paf- fion. To the French ftrangers, they difplayed their moral principles and feelings in a light mockingly unamiable. They beheld diftreljjjj without fympathy; they robbed their benevolent vifitants, the moft readily, at thofe very moments, when thefe were carefling and loading with prefents themfelves and their c&ldren. One or two of the Frenchmen could at no time droll to any diftance on the coaft, without being liable to be furrounded, and forcibly deprived of every thing valuable about tjjiem^ by ROtfND THE WORLD. tnefe rapacious natives. A village of three ©2 four wooden fheds was obferved by our voYa-t gers near the fhore. | Thefe fheds were, each, 2^" feet in length, and 15 in breadth; covered only on that fide which was the moft cxpofed to the ftorms,vwith. planks or with the bark of trees; and having in the middle a fire, around which iwerehung falmons and other fifties to.be dried in the fmqke. Each fhed appeared to lodge 18 or 20 perfons. On one .fide fat their women and- children ; on the other were She men. [Eac^ fhed feemed to be the feat of a diftin£l Society. Each had its own canoe and its own.' chief. The movements and defigns of the company in every different fhed feemed to be entirely independent, of the inhabitants of the others. C4rcumftances appeared to indicate, that the re- ifidence pf thefe Americans, upon this bay, was ibikt occafibnal and temporary. They perhaps ipafs the fuoimer here for fifhing; but in the winter retire into the interior country to purfue I the chace. Within and around their dwellings, the mod difgufting naftinefs prevailed. They prepare their fifties for food, in wooden veffels, which, though ufed alike for kettle, difh, and [plate, are never wafhed. Being without pots of either iron or that lapis ollaris,.which has been found in ufe among the natives of fome of the N. E. parts of the American continent >^$fe;: have no means to make water boil, fave by if||/ merfing into it ftones, which they have made red-hot in the fire. Their method of roaftirig nearly refembles that which is practifed by foldiers in a camp. In fummer they feek their food like the feals, wandering from bay to bay. In winter they penetrate into the interior cotm- LA ^EYROUSE's VOYAGE ifsfci; ma M Br. : try, and hunt the beaver and other animals. From the tendernefs of the foles of their feet, which, though always naked, are never callous, it fhould feem that they travel little, except hi canoes^\br with fnow rackets^ Their only do- meftic animal is the dog, of a fpecies wild, carnivorous, and dangerous; in form and fize not unlike to the common fhepherd's dog, rarely barking, but emitting an hifs fimilar to that of t^e jackall of Bengal. The drcfs of thefe people is fimple, yet in fome particulars oddly fan- taftic. The head is ufually covered with a fmall hat of draw, very neatly plaited. Or, in feme inftances, two horned bonnets of eagle's^ feathers, or even the whole head of a bear, having a wooden fcull-cap fixed to it, appear inftead of the ftraw hat. Some were feen to wear a fort of robe of otter's fkin, or of the tanned fkin of the elk, bordered with a jingling fringe of deers hooves and the beaks of birds. The car- tillages of the ears and the nofe are pierced to receive different ornaments. On their breads and arms they may make fears with a fharp edged inftrumeat, which they i$re accoftomed to whet on their teeth. With a piece of fand- ftone, wrought into the form of a tongue, they file down their teeth to the gums. Ochre, foot, and plumbago, mingled with fifli oil, are employed by them in painting frightfully the face and the other parts of the body.£ DrefTed in what they themfelves account the manner the moft fumptuous and elegant, they wear the hair flowing at full length, entwined with the down ofTea-fowls, and plentifully powdered. Some few inftances of tattooing on the arms, were observed among the women. Young girls, who: ROUND THE WORLD. 6^ I&ve not yet attained the age of puberty, naiver-'; fally pierce the under-lip, and fix in it a needle, as a conftant ornament. When . they have • advanced beyond the age of puberty, the orifice which was formed by' the needle, is enlarged, by flitting the lower lip*at the root of the gums, for the whole widenefs of the mouth. Into this is now inferted a fort of wooden bowl without handles^ very nicely formed, and deftined to be worn as a perpetual ornament, which they will, , at no time, even for a moment lay afide, without extreme confufion and reluctance. The general drefsof thefe women is more carelefs- and filthy than that of the men. Their countenances, naturally wild and harfh, are inexpreW; ftbly disfiguered by the laceration of the under lip. Their whole perfons appeared to the French ftrangers, to be the moft fqualid and difgufting upon earth. %Yet, amorf^ the failors there were fome who were fo brutally lafcivious as to fo- licit their favours. They at firft fhowed fome- what of coy reluctance, and hinted their fears of the jealoufy of their men.g^ Prefents overcame this reluctance; and they then chofe rather to proftitu'te themfelves on the open fhore, in the face of the fun, than to retire under the more modeft concealment of the woods. It is not to fce diffembled, that Dixon, the Englifh voyager, who vifited this coaft, foon after M. de la Peyroufe, has given a lefs difgufting picture of jthefe females. - He fays, that when one of them Iwas perfuaded to wafh herfelf clean, her form and countenance, (but -for the disfigurement of - the under lip,) appeared much to refemble a jfcandfome Englifh milkmaid. In flature, thefe i beople were perceived to differ little from their J Fa m LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE «*4 French vifitors. The colopr of their fkin is a dark brown, not from the birth, but in confe- qnence of their continual expofure to the footy naftinefs of thejf houfes, and to the air and rains | in the open atmofphere. Their* frame is feeble ; and the weakeft of the French failors would have been more than a match in wreftling for the flouted of thefe Americans. Symptoms of the fcurvey were obferved on fome of them ; and the olded perfon among them was a woman who \ might be about 60 years of age. They fifh the rivers, either by fetting up dakes aerofs them ; and thus forming a fort of cruives ; or elfe, wirtf- lines, to which a fmail fifh is faftened as a bait,, while a large feal's bladder, connected with the line, and fwifcming on the furface of the water, indicates to the fifherman the fird inoment when any fiflj fnatches at the bait below. Thefe Americans of Port de Francois, are (killed to fpin the hair of different animals into a yarn, of which, with needles, they fabricate a fpeeies of cloth, of a texturtf fimilar to that of the tapeftry of Europe. Of this cloth they form for themfelves cloaks ; and having contrived* to inter- inix in the fabric of the cloth, (lender dripes ©£ otter-fkin, Utey thus make their cloaths to re- femble the fined (Ufcen fbag of European man- u£a£ture$|i Their hats and bafkets of reeds are; Wo^en wi£& exquifile ikill. The ornamental de-. figns which they (ketih upon thefe, are in no. unpleafing tade. They ferge iron; they fa«; fhion copper ; they execute tolerable engravings of men and other animals, hi wood and ftenej They rsake finely polifhed ornaments of the fer- pentine done : They inky boxes in a very ele-^ gant manner, with mother of pearly A dagger 5 \ ROU^D WE WORLD. 67 a wooden lance at one end, (harpened and hardened in the fire, or perhaps pointed with iron ; a bow and arrows, the latter tipped with copper ; are their ordinary weapons. There were obferved among their trinkets, pieces of yellow amber; which they may polfibly pick up from time to time, upon their own coads. Their canoes appeared to be in general more than*30 feet long ; 4 feet bread; 6 feet deep; and were covered with feal-fkins after the.manner of the Efquimaux. Their gaming makes them feri- ous and melancholy. It is played with 30 pieces of wood ; each having, like our dice, different marks, and of thefe 30 pieces, they hide 7. Every one of the perfons engaged in the game, then plays in his turn. He whofe guefs comes neared to the number upon the 7 pieces, is the winner of the dake.J|An hatchet, or a piece of iron, is ufually the ftipulated prize. Their mufic is.plaintive and melodious. The founds of their language are rough and harfh, exhibiting combination^ of confonants to which we fhould find it impoflible to give utterance » and excluding the founds of fome of thofe letters^ which occur the mod frequently in the fpeech of civilized Europe J§:Of the confonants, b,fi> x,j, d, p, v, /and the liquid gn± could not be enunciated by them, otherwife than very imperfectly, arid with extreme difficulty. Their initial confonants are, k, t,n, f, m. None of their words begin with n. Their terminations are, almod always, either in vowels, or in the tj^Uables out/, aulch. K is the favourite letter in their alphabet.^ They have interje£lions expreffive of plea- fure, anger, and admiration. They poflefs but. few abftwt terais. Forafmuch as our voya- mw 6S la peyrouse*s voyage gers could obferve, there feezed to be a confid- erable affinity of found between the language of the inhabitants of Nootka, and that of thefe people of Port de Francois. The following are the principal numerical terms of this language :- One; Two, Three, Four, -v Five, Six, Seven, Eighty: Nine,. Ten, Eleven, Twelve, Thirteen^ Fourteen, Fifteen, Sixteen, Seventeen, Eighteen,. Nineteen, Twenty, Thirty, ■ Forty, Fifty, Sixty, Seventy, Eighty, Keirrk Theirlf Neifh Toakhoun Keitfchine Kteitouchou Takatouchou r Netfkatouchou Kouehok Tchinecati Keirkrha-keirrk Ketrkhra-theirh Keirk rha-nei/k Keirkrha-taakhoun Keirk rha-keitjchine Keirk rha-kleituchou Keirkrha-takatoUchou Keirk rha-netfikatouchou Keirkrha-houehoc; Tkeirha Neifikrha Taakhounrha Keitfchinerha Kleitouchourka TakatoucMurha Netfikatouchrha • Kbuekokrha *Fbhinecaterha Ninety, An hundred, The harbour or bay to which La Peyroufe gave thenamejjf Port.ijie Francois, is fituatein 58 ROUND THE WORLD* #£ I deg. 37 i|$n. N. Latitude, in 130^ deg. 50 min. N. Longitude. Under the full, and under the changing moon, the tide here rifes §| fe§g on the fhore. It is then high water at one o'clock. At certain times, the current of the tide moves in with the forceof the mod rapid river ; at other times, a boat may eafily fail in direct oppofition to it. There were obferved on the i^pdjhigh water marks, at a height not lefs than 1C feet above the furface of the fea. The cli- Imate of this coaft was judged by M. de la Peyroufe to be far milder than that of Hudfon's bay in the fame latitude. Vegetation is here exceedingly vigorous, for 3 or 4 months annually. Pines were meafured by our voyagers, of which the circumference was found to be 18 feet, the height 140 feet. Almoftallthe pot-herbs of the meadows and mountains of France appeared in the fields. Among thefe were, angelica, the butter-cup, the violet, &c. Celery, round leaved forrel, lupine, the wild pea, yarrow, and endive were likewilfe; found in great abundance. Goofeberries, rafp- berries, and (trawberries, were plenteous in the woods. Alder trees, the poplar, the fallow, the hornbeam, the dwarf willow, wkh different fpe* |l&s of briars, were feen intermingled among the flately pines. ||Moft of the plants appeared to be a fpecjies which are common in Europe. |M.;yle Martiniere, in his botanical excurfions, met with only three plants which he thought new. TrOut and falmon are prodigiqufly abundant in the rivers. Ling, thornbacks, plaices, jftetdns, and capelans, were taken by the French |in the bay. Mufcles, limpets, whilks, and cock- pf$,#ere among the moft remarkable fhell fifh- From a place at the elevation of more than les. 7o LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE 20© toifes above the level of the fea, M. de Lafc manon, mineralogid, took marine petrifactions in a fine date of prefervation, and of very large dimenfions, of the (hell known by the name.of St. Jamefsfihell, or the Royal cloak. Bears, martins, and fquirrels, were found by the hunters in the woods. ;|The natives brought fkins olnhe brown and black bear, the Canadian lynx, the Canadian marmot, the ermine, the red fox,? the martin, the beaver, and the little grey fquirrei. The moft common, however, and the mod precious fkins brought by the natives, were thofe of the fea-otter, the wolf, and the7bear. The horn of a wild goat, the tanned ficins of the elk, were alfo feen by the French voyagers. A water, and a mufk rat were by M. de Lamanon taken alive. The fpecies of birds which are riot here many ; but the individuals of each fpecies are fufficientjy numerousitl'Sparrows, nightm- gales,black-birds, and yellow-hammers, fifled the thickets, finging with a delightful melody. The white-headed eagle and*- the great raven were feen hovering aloft in the air. A beautiful blue jay, with fome humn|l0g birds, attra6feed the notice of the (trangers. They killed a king-fifher; The nefts of the fwallow and the black oyfter- catcher were ohferved in the cliffs oftfjthe- rocks on the fea-fhore. The only lea-fowls feen, were, the red footed guillemot, gulls, cormorants, wild geefe, and divers, of both the large and fmall fpecies. The deep vales amon#i thefe mountains, prefent views fo^frightfully :pie-i turefque, chat were they not at this remote extremity of the earth* >they could nd't fail, to at*- tra£l the furious vifits of all who admire the1 beauties and the wonders of external nature. ROU^fD THE WORLD. ,7 The mountains have their bafes in the fea; form a fort of quay upon the fhore ; and thence af- cend with an acclivity fo rapid and precipitous, that even the wild goats cannot climb them above the firft two or three launched toifes of their height. Ice and fnow nil the interjacent gullies. No trees nor other plants overfpread thefe mountains. Granites and fchiftus com- pofe their ftrata. Thefe are the great primitive mountains. Secondary mountains, of inferior elevation, form the fides of the harbour. feOf thefe the height is not more than from 80© to 900 toife^. Pines rife over their fides ; and beneath is a carpet of verdure. They are not abfolutely inacceffible, yet extremely difficult to be climbed. The fnow appears only on their fummits. The French naturalifts, with infinite fatigue,'anade their way almoft to the tops of thefts fecondary mountains. But it was in the vales they foughttheirfpecimensof the different matters compofing the ftrata, interfperfed among them. Ochre ; cupraceous pyrates ; granites, brittle, large, and perfectly chryftaiized ; fchorl in chryf- tals; granite ; fchiftus; horn-ftone; pure quartz,; mica ; plumbago ; and coals; were the different minerals of which their collections exhibited fpecimens. No fooner had the two frigates been fixed at anchor near the ifle, which was mentioned abo|e > than the voyagers turned themfelves to form a Settlement on that ifle, for the time of their, day in the harbour. They pitched tents for their fmiths and fail-makers ; and took out the calks from the holds of the fhips to be there refitted. The Indians had none of their habita- tionson the ifle. Here, there/ore, it was fup- pofed that their thefts might be without quarrel lw- ■$a LA PSYROTSE S VOYAGE or ^olence, avoided. Some fire-arms and attn> lery were difcharged in their prefenee, to con- vinCethem, that, however lenient, the ftrangetl were fufiiciently powerful to reprefs and punifK injury. Whatever might happen, it was deter-| mined to employ no iorce againd the natives ; but, to excite the vigilance of the crews, M. d£ la Peyroufe fettled, ihat the men who fuffered a lofs by the the(t of the Indians, fhould be purm ifhed for that negligence? by which the theft had been allowed to take effect. But the avidity and ingenuity of the natives, often defeated all thefe precautions. At one time, in particular, they landed from their canoes on the ifle, by night ; dole through the woods, gliding like adders on their bellies, uttering not a whifper, fcarcely dining a leaf; made their way, unobferved, through a guard of 12 foldiers into a tent, in which Meffrs. de Lauridon and Darbaud, thfl ©fficers of the guard, lay afleep ; took away the clothes of thefe two gentlemen from under thei| pillows, without awakening them ; and conveyed this booty? together with a mufket mounted with filver, and a memorandum book of adrw nomical obfervations, off in perfect fafety, and undetected. The boats, in the mean time, car ried wood and water on board the (hips ; and different working parties were employed in th( diligent performance of aH the neceffary labour* Meffrs. de Monneron and Betnizet, with an ar«$ ed company of the failors and foldiers, proceed ed in a boat to explore the bay. They looked with awe at the grand appearances which naturt exhibited towards its bottom. A bafbn of unfathomable depth, furrounded *by fnow coverec mountains of an elevation to which the ey< ROUND THE WORLD. /J feared to fexalt its gaze ; no breath of air ruffling the furface of thefe waters ; nought difturbing the awful fcalm and filence, fave from time to time the fall of enormous maffes of ice, from thofe icy piles which arofe amidft the mountains : Thefe were the circumdances of awful Ttiblimity, which here prefented themfelves to the imagination of the beholders. From this bafon, the French voyagers wifhed to penetrate farther, hoping that it might communicate with fome channels, which would conduct them into the interior parts of America. A wedern channel opened before them. They entered it; and proceeded till their courfe was interrupted by dreadful piles of ice and fnow. An eadern channel was with fimilar care explored, and With jud the fame fuccefs. Their next tranfactian was no lefs than the purchafe of the ifle, on [which they had fet up their obfervatory. A Chief pretending to be its proprietor, offered | them a fale of it. M. de la Peyroufe accepting the offer, gave him inpayment of his jright, feveral ells of red cloth, hatchets, knives, bar iron, and nails. Poffeffion was then taken j of the ifle by the French with the wonted form allies. A bottle, with an apt infeription, was hurried at the foot of a rock ; and near t© it was daid a bronze medal, out of a collection which M. de la Peyroufe had, for fuch purpofes, brought from France. gAlmod all the objects for which our voyagers had halted iirtHts bay, [were now accomplished. No difafter had befallen them. Not a man of the ffeip's companies was as yet fick, or, in any degree, affli£led with the fcurvy. They deemed themfelves the mod . '74 LA PEYROUSE'S VOYAGE *• ^fortunate of navigators. But a fatal misfortune was jud about to overtake them. Jjg} Several foundings of the waters in the bay were neceffary to complete the draft of Meffrs., de Monneron and Bernizet. To make thefe foundings, a number of the officers fet out, in the pinnace of L'Aftrolabe, commanded by M. de Marchainville; in the pinnace of La Bouf- fole, under the orders of M. d'Efcures ; and in the barge belonging to La Bouffole, of which M. Boutin had the command. La Peyroufe, with a folieitude, the advices of which M. d'Efcures could not hear with patience, recommended to him and the other officers to proceed with-i the utmod caution, on this little expedition. Though it was to occupy but a few hours, he even delivered out his orders in writing to d'Efcures. The boats fet out at 6 o'clock in thfj morning. With views as well of pleafure as of indructive inquiry,the parties who went in them intended to hunt and to breakfad under the trees. After doubling the wefteijn part of the ifle, near to which the frigates were at anchor, the gentlemen in the boats perceived, that the fea broke over all the channel which they were fent to explore, with a violence that would make it fatally dangerous to approach it. Mj d'Efcures, in the pinnace of La Bouffole, led the way on one fide : M. Boutin, in the long boat belonging to the fame Frigate, followed him. At fome inconfiderable didance failed the pinnace of L'Adrolabe, under the command of Mar- chainvfte. At a quarter pad feven, the two boats of La Bouffole were within two cable's length of the channel. Suddenly they perceived themfelves to be drifted by the ebbing tide ;| ROUND THE WORLD. 7* and immediately, both the boats began to retire,, with all poflible hade, from the channel, and to turn away to the northward. Still, they fuppof- ed themfelves to be in no ferious danger ; fince,. by gaining 20 toifes on either hand, they might eafily run their boats on (bore. After rowing more than a minute, to furmount the tide, they endeavoured, the pinnace to approach the weft- ern, the long boat to approach the eadern fhore, but both alike without fuccefs. Again, they turned to the northward, to efcape, if poffible,. the breakers which threatened them. In this fituation, M. Boutin endeavoured to (lay his boat,, by dropping the grapnel. It did not fix on the bottom, but its cord being unfaft#ned at the end which-remained in the boat, it was inftant- ly loft, and by its lofs the boat was happily delivered from a weight which might have foon after proved fatally inconvenient. The pinnace, in the mean time, was involved amid the break— my|§She was drawn into the current. Thofe in the long boat quickly loft fight of her. She was overwhelmed amid the billows, and was writh her crew utterly loft. Her fate had been perceived at a diftance by M. de Marchainville :. and the crew of the boat of L'Aftrolabe, hurrv- % 4 ing into the midft of the danger, to aid their perifhing comrades, were like them unhappily (wallowed up amidft the breakers. Boudin, even after he faw himfelf fur rounded by dangers almoft infurmountable, was ftill for fome moments ready to rufh into the long-boat to the affiftance of his friends, at the rifle q£ fharing their fate. But the fenfe of duty interpofing,, determined him to make every effort in order to fave the crew entrufted to his commands 7*' LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE For this purpofe, he made his failors, in the interval of the breaking of the feas, to pull away I with the oars to the ftarboard.WAt twenty five minutes after feven, he was fortunately out of all danger. He now made the water to be baled out of the boat; and again turned himfelf to difcover whether his unfortunate (hip-mates might not yet furvive, and whether he might not yet carry them relief. To the fouthward, he could perceive fome feals and lea-weeds, the appearance of which gave him ftill fome faint hopes. At three quaTters after 8 o'clock, the tide had turned, and the breakers had ceafed. Again he renewed the fearch ; but ftill without fuccefs. j His crew were now cold, drenched with water, hungry, and without provisions. He had neither grapnel nor fails for the management of the boat. He was therefore obliged to return into the bay. Some Indians, whom he perceived on the fhore, exprefled to hii©, by fig- nals, that they had feen the two boats perifh. Still, however, he would not forego the hope, that he might perhaps find M. de Marchainville, with the boat of L'Aftrolabe, to have returned to the fhips. 1 Have you any news of M. de Marchainville ?" was his firft inquiry, the moment he arrived on board, g No," was the an- fwer, and it made his defpair complete. The difconfolate horror with which the news of this misfortune was received on board the frigates^; mmy be eafier conceived than exprefled. This was the firft misfortune our voyagers had en-> countered during their enterprize. It deprived them of fomy^ of their moft accomplifhed officers and deareft companions. It had happened, after every poflible precaution had been employed to ROUND THE WORL0. avert it: For the foundings of the channel had been before made, and the force of the breaking | billows, on different days, obferved, with a care ; which makes it improbable, that, but for an extraordinary fwell on this-particular day, the danger which proved fo fatal, could have been incurred. The Indians, in their canoes, foon vifited |the frigates, to give information that they had feen the two boats perifh, without being able to afford them afllfiance. The difconfolate (hangers loaded their informers with prefents, aad ! gave them to underftand that he who fhould have faved a fingle man,would have been thought worthy to have been rewarded with all their wealth. Meffrs. de Langel and De Clonard, attended by all their officers, and a number of other perfons, haftened away to explore thofe parts of the coaft to which it was not improbable that fome parts of the wreck might perchance be driven. Their fearch was vain. They returned without having difcovered either a fingle furviv- ing man or any of the dead bodies. The Indians, too, in hopes of new prefents, fpread themfelves round the bay, and made every poflible refearch;. but with the fame ill fuccefs. An empty monument was erected to the memory of thofe who had perifhed, by the forrowful affection of their furviving companions : and to the ifle on which it was raifed, they gave the name of Cenotaph i Isle. After fome days, the Indians brought them fome fragments of>he broken boats; but nothing more. 3"he following are the names of the officers, fol~- &ers, and failors, who were loft inythe two boats on the 13th of July, 1786, at a quarter after feven o'clock in the morning. G2 la peyrouse's voyage Meffrs. d'Efcures, de Pierrevert, de Montar- nal, Officers : Le Maitre, firIIpilot % Lieutot, corporal and cockfwain ; Prieur, Frichot, ^Bo- let, Henry, Chaub, foldiers ; All thefe, both officers and common men, belonging to La Bouffole. " From VAfirolabe ; Meffrs. de la Borde Marchainville ; de la Borde Boutervillers ; Flaffan, Officers : and of thefe the two former were brothers : Soulas, corporal'and cockfwain ; Phil- iby, Julien le Penn, Pierre Rabier, foldiers .• Thomas Andrieufe, Goulver Tarreau, Guilla- ume Duqefjie, young men in the flower of their age, and captains of the tops. ROUND the world. 19 CHAP. V. Narrative of the Voyage continued, from the beginning of Auguft to the end of September, 1786; Progrefs down the North Weft coafil of America, - From Port de Frangois to Montcry- :•—Difcove- ry and Obfervations on the Coaft ;—Defcription of the Bay of Montery :—Afilronomical Obfervations :—Sketch of tne prefent. State of the tw* Califot rmds. &t JL HE French voyagers were now anxious to haften away from a fcene of fo much misfortune. Much prudent confideration was neceffary in fixing the plan of their next courfe. They were to trace the outline of the American' coaft to the fotithward ; and it was at the fame time requi- fite that they fhould manage fo, as to arrive at Manilla about the end of January; at China, in the courfe of February. It was fettled that they ihould g© into harbour no where but at Monterey. A promotion was made among the officers, to fill up the places of thofe who had per-* ifhed. It was fetltled, with the confent of the officers and paffengers, that the furs which had been obtained, fhould be fold at China for the fole benefit of the failors; and M. du Frefne was, for that purpofe, appointed fupercargo. In rJ^e firft 48 hours of their renewed courfe, the winds blew fo faintly, that they were able^o advance %nly 6 leagues. Their progrefs was within 3 or 4 leagues didance from the coa(t*f||But the weather was gloomy and they had only an imperfect view of the mountains and low grounds. This coad had been before examined by Cook ; and as his accuracy could require but little cor- So LA PEYROUSE'S VOYASE mr. rection, M. de la Peyroufe was therefore willing., to run along as rapidly as poffible.j|He* looked-; in vain for the pretended mouth of the Archipe^ lago of St. Lazarus of the Spanifh admiral Fu- entes. Fogs, rains, and calms, continued from the day on which they fet fail, until noon on the 4th of Augud. They were then in 57 deg. 4$ min. N. Lat. and at the didance of 3 leagues from the land. At 4 o'clock, P. M. on the fame day, the fogs cleared up, and our voyagers could perfectly dif- tinguifh the entrance of the Crcfs Sound 21 which feems to form two very deep bays, and affords, poffibly, good anchorage for (hipping. The loftied range of fnew-covered mountains, rifing from 1300 to to 1400 toifes in height, has its termination at Crofs Sound. The lands become here lower, and are to the very fummits overgrown with wood ; yet dill retain a moun^ j tainous character. JfeAt funfet, M. de la Peyroufe . found himfelf oppofite to the wedern point of Crofs Sound. The frigates continued to ruai along the coad at 3 leagues diftance from it.. Fogs covered the mountains ; but the lowlands were at intervals,^ diftin£lly vifible. The pro*- grefs was flow, for in 24 hours they had not ad- . vanced more than 10 leagues. At day-break, on the fifth, theyibund themfelves oppofite to a (£ape, Southward from the entrance of Crofs Sound, to which they gave the name of Cape Crofs. J-A multitude of low wooded iflets no^Bs appeared before them: The middle ground exhibited high hills: The fnow-covered mountains were no longer feen,* Approaching thefe iflets, till he could difcern from the deck the break-- ers o» the .coad, La Peyroufe difcovered feveral * ROUND THE WORLD. Si paSages of which he thought it probable that they might afford good roadfteads. T0h the 6th, the weather becotn|ilg fomewhat clearer, permitted him toobfervethe fun's ahfc" tude, and hence to compare the true time with- that which was indicated by their time keepers : •They were in North Latitude 57 deg. 18 min. I40 fee. in Longitude between 130 deg. and 140 deg. At 7 in the evening they could ftfll perceive Mount Crillon, bearing north 66 deg. weft. Mount St. Hyacinth, bearing north 78 deg. eaft, and Eriganno, eaft 10 deg. fouth. Cape En- ;gann© is a low land, covered with trees, and jutting a great way out into the fea. Mount St. Hyacinth rifes beyond it, in theform of a truncated cone, round at the top, and elevated to the iheight of about 20© toifes. From the north and fouth of Enganno, the coaft is bordered with iff-, ets for a fpace of 10 leagues. At 10 o'clock in [the morning, they had paffed all thefe ifles. At 6 in the evening they perceived a CapeoppouW to them, in a northeaft direction, wn£cfc ran a good way to the weftward. To this cape M. de la Peyroufe gave the name of Cape Tfchir** kow, in honour to the Ruffian navigator of thi# name, who, in the year 1741, landed nearly on this part of the American coaft. ir£fy a lar^e anddeep Bay, lying eaftwaffd behind the Cape, Peyroufe "gave alf© the name of Tfchirikow Bay. : At 7 in the evening they perceived a groupe of \f iflets, unnoticed by former navigators. To thefe was given the name of La Croyer's Iflands. During the.whole of the 8th the wind continued to blow favourably from the wed. They found themfelves to be in 55 deg. 39 min. 31 fee. N. Lat. in 137 deg. 5 min. 23 fee, W. Longitude. I w 82 LA PEYROUSE S VOY AGE Many openings between fome confiderable ifl-j ands, were, in various directions, vifible to them $£j but the contiaent was at fuch a didance as to be beyond their fight. This range of ifles begfias 4 leagues South Eafl from Cape Tfchirikow, and probably extends as far as to Cape Hector. The currents near them are very drong, even at 3 leagues didance the frigates felt their influence. In this quarter lies Port Buccarelli, fo named by Maurelle, a Spanifh pilot, who vifited thefe coafts. At 7 o'clock in the morning of the 9th, our voyagers, continued to run along at 3 leagues diftance fiom the land, approached the St. Car- lofs ifles.fi Of thefe, the moft confiderable lies in a dire^on from S. £. to N. W. and is about? 2 leagues in circumference. Other lower iflets j lie beyond it, farther within the channel. Oppo-j fite to thefe ifles, exactly at noon on the 9th, La Peyroufe found himfelf to be in 54 deg^48 min.., N. Latitude, in 136 deg. 19 min. W. Long. A breeze arofe with confiderable force from the W. N. W. he endeavoured to approach the land; and at half paft 7 o'clock in the evenings Was lefs than a league from the coaft: but the^ 4fihore was fo much covered with fogs, and the billows appeared to break againft it wijth fo much- dangerous violence, that he foon found it neceffary to put about, and wait for clearer weather. During the night between the 1 oth and the 11 th of Auguft Jjhe fogs thickened and the winds^ blew with violence. Our voyagers tacked and flood off the fhore ; they approached the Jand| about day-break : but the fogs dill continue ed and it was impoffible to obtain a fufficiently diftin& view of the outline of the coaft. For feveral days fucceffirely, the fogs dill contuwp ROUND THE WORLD. 8 J ed; on the morning of the 15th, the weather cleared up. They approached the coaft, and perceived its extenfion to lie from N. N. E. to S. S. E. They were foon again inveloped by the fogs. The 17th was calm throughout the day. On the 18th at noon, they were within a league andu^i half of the fhore. They ran along it at this diftance, till a Bay was difcovered, which appeared to enter deep into the country, and to which they gave the name of De la Touch Bay. From the 55 deg. to the 53 deg. the fea was covered with divers of that fpecies which has been named by Buffon, the macareux of Kamfchkafka : the colour of the body of thefe fowls is black ; the beak and feet are red ; on the head are two white ftripes rifing into tufts like thofe of the cockatoo. Thefe fowls never wander farther than 5 or 6 leagues from the land. On the evening of the 19th, while the horizon was very clear, a Cape was difcovered, which appeared to terminate the American coaft. To this Cape, M. de la Peyroufe gave the name of Cape Hector ; beyond it appeared 4 or 5 iflets, which he ■denominated Kerowart Ifles. The latitude of Cape Hector is in 51 deg. 57 min, 2© fee. K. and its longitudfe, according to the time-keepers of the frigates, in 133 deg. 37 min. W- On the 21 ft, at noon they were in 52 deg. 1 min. N. Lat. in 133 deg. 7 min. 31 fee. W. Long, and they here founded, without being able Ao find any bottom. The breadth of the gulph, which they perceived to intervene between Cape Hector and an ifle, the fartheft to the S. E. of the new group, to which they gave the name of Cape Fleurieu, appeared to be about 30 leagues. Beyond this group of ifleS| was the Continent 1611! "I4 LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE j perceived. Its primitive mountains, covered *$ver with fnow, deftitute of wood* and towering up int© lofty peaks, feemed to lie more than 3© ^leagues backward, at their points of highed cleg vation, into the interior country. In comparison with thefe mountains, only inferior hills had .been feen from Crofs Sound, thus far a)^ g thei coad. Advancing onwards, they paffed nigh feveral cluftcrs of ifles ; upon which, however £ not a bufh nor ftirub was to be feen. To thefe* cluders was given the name of Sartine Ifles. Having paffed thefe ifles, they again dood toward the continent ; they could not now diftin- gui(h the tops of the mountains, but very distinctly law the low lands. On the 25 th, our veyagers continued to proceed eaftward towards Nootka Sound. Thea| had before obferved the Woody Point of Cook to be precifely in 50 deg. 4 min. N. Latitude, and in 13© deg. 25 min. W. Longitude, a pofi-f tion fomewhat different from that aftigned to it by Cook. A thick fog obfcurefl from their view* tbe land of Nootka, On the 28th, at 5 o'clock in the evening, they found themfelves oppofite to Cook's Breakers Point. On the id, of September, at noon, they came within fight of a point or cape which bore N. N. E. from them about ten leagues.' The land extended eadward ; bu| the fogs covered all its projecting parts. ThJ cufijAits upon thefe coafts run ftrong ; and the 1 frigates had frequently to make their way througnj whirlpools. They continued to. fail along th<T coaft, in circumftances nearly fimilar to thofe which have been detailed, till they came into 42 -deg. 5S min. 56 fee. N. Latitude, 127 deg»f|[ rain. 20 fee. W. Longitude. Here, at abo]^t : MpVKD THE WORLB. S< league's diftance from Cape Blanco, tlrey obferv- cd nine H$tle rocky iflets oppofite to them, to which they were induced to give the denomination of Neckar's Ifles. Proceeding along the (land at three or four leagues diftance, they could (perceive only the tops of the mountains ri- fing above t&e clouds. Continuing t© (leer to the fouthward, they found the fkies lefs clear than in the more northern latitudes. A volcano on the top of a mountain, burning with a very lively flames-grafted their notice, as they failed on. On the 8th of September, the atraof- Iphcre cleared up, and they could again difcern [the diftant tops of the mountains ; but. the weather became continually worfe, and fogs con- [tinuaUy impeded their endeavours to explore the outline of the coaft. They knew themfelves to be near to the Bay of Monterey; they approached within a league of the fhore, and could very (diftinctly fee the billows breaking upon it. They were now a€lually within Monterey Bay ; but the hazinefs of the weather made it ftill impoffible for them to recognize the Spanifh fefe- tlement. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon of the 54th of September, jhey came within fight of port Monterey, and perceived two three-maft- I?d veffels lying in the road 5 adverfe winds oblig- wtthem to come to an anchor at the didance of wo leagues from the fhore. But, on the day tallowing, they approached within two cable's length of the land, and cad anchor in water fcrlncn was twelve fathoms deep. This they were jnabled to do by the direction of pilots, who, Iluring the night, had been fent out to them from he fhore. In the whole courfe from Port de francoisj even amidft the thickeft fogs, the two a rMy B-J* LA PEYROUS 8^ frigates had always failed diffidently near to be able to hail one another, till they came to the bay of Monterey. New Year Point, to the North, the Point of Cyprus, to the South, from the Bay of Monterey : Its breadth between thefe two points is about 8 leagues ; it dfcfcends nearly 6 leagues eadward into the country ; and is bounded at its bottom by low fandy grounds. N. and S. from the bay, the lands are high and wooded. Under the full and the changing moon, the flowing tide is at its height, at half pad one o'clock. As the bay is very open, the current in it is nearly imperceptible. Whales fport in it in prodigious numbers, furround the (hips with the greated familiarity, and fpout out dream? of water, which infect the air with their noifome denchJ Fogs continually overhang thefe coads ; and ©ccafion difficulty in the approach to a fhore which would otherwife be very eafy and fafely acceffible. Pelicans, birds which never go farther than 5 or 6 leagues from the land, are nun merous in this bay. A lieutenant-colonel, theSpanidi governor of the Californias, has his refidence at Monterey. His government extends over a territory not lef$ than 8oo leagues in circumference. Yet 281 foldiers of Spanifh cavalry are the only perfons actually Cubject to its authority^ This fmall military force is didributed into garrifons occupying fouT or five different forts, and into detachments of four or five men to every one of five and twenty parifhes, into which the whole territory is fub-divided. About 50,000 wandering Indians are eafily kept in awe by this fmall military force; but of thofe Indians, near. HOUND THE WORLD. 87 iy 10,000 have embraced the chridian religiotT.; Loretto, the only prefidency of Old California, is on the eadern coad of this peninfula; its garrifon con fids of 54 dragoons. There belong to it 15 millions or parifties, of which the duties are performed by Dominican friars. The longapodlefhip of the Jefuits, and the Francif- cans, has' converted and collected together about 4,000 Indians in thefe 15 parifties. Of the northern California, St. Diego, the olded fet- ^ement, was fird edablifhed on the 6th of July, 1769. Monterey, now the capital of the tw© Californias, is an edablifhment not older than the year 1770. The road of Monterey, was, indeed, before known, and occafionally vifited by the galleons from Manilla. The following are the names of the furrounding millions, and of the pre (idencies which, have fince been edab- JSflbed in thefe parts. It is, however, proper, iird to obferve, that the Spaniards give the name of Prefidency to any fort fituate in an infidel country, whether Africa or America. ROUND THE WORLD. Thefe millions and prefidencies are fupported at a great expence, for the purpofe of civilizing the 1 ndians. The regular clergy, to whofe management they have been intruded,, are under- ftood to difcharge their refpectiveifunctions with the greated piety,, alacrity, and fidelity. But the Indians are treated by them rather as children'than as perfons. of mature underflanding. In the churches are exhibited paintings of hell and heaven, fuch as feem to be adapted powerfully to drike the fenfes of a rude and fimple people. The men and women are affembled to church, to work, and to all their exercifes, by the found of a bell; while one of the Fathers dill conducts and directs them. Fetters, the docks, the drokes of a whip, are fo many modes of punifhment to which their religious and moral delinquencies are, by thefe theit fpiritual fathers, fubjectedJk Seven hours- in the day are allotted to labour, two hours to prayers. A new convert, from among the heathen Indians, if once received into fche fociety of thefe chridian- ized Indians, is never again differed to make his efcape ; but, upon any fuch attempt, never fails to be purfued, hunted out, and brought back to condign punifhment. The Ghridian Indians are obliged to rife with the fun ; an hour is then dedicated to the fervices of mafs and prayers. A breakfaft of barley meal awaits them at their return from the ferviee.. It is boiled in water;: the Indians give this foodthe name ©f atole; and, though it be unfeafoned with either butter or fait,, are extremely fond of it. It is prepared in three large kettles in the middle of the fquare. The family of every different hut fends a Yeffel made of bark, to receive its porT m LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE '■"- tion of the mefs; that wlach remains on thesf bottom of the kettles, after all the families have been ferved, is difltibuted to thofe of the children who bed repeat their leffons from the cate- ehifm.ff After confuming three quarters of an liour at breakfad, the Indians betake themfelves to their labours for the day. Some go to plow the ground in the fields with oxen; otfeers, to dig in the gardens ; the women manage the affairs of the houfeholds, take care of their children, parch and grind into meal the different grains. At no©n, the hour of dinner is announced by the found of the bell; the Indians now again receive their portions out of a quantity of food which has been prepared for them in common ; their ufual dinner dim is named by them pouffble, and differs from that which they had to breakfad, only in being thicker, and In having corn, maize, peafe and bea»s, intermrngled in it. At 2 o'clock they return from their meal to their labour. Their work now continues till the hour of 4 or 5 in the evening. They then attend evening prayers nearly for an hour. A new diftributicn of atsle, forms their dipper; and the day thus clones. Under the mifiionaries are appointed -caciques, or magsftrates, from among f&e Indians themfelves ; but thefe are paffive in- ftruments in the hands of theecclefiadical rulers, whofe province extends to litle elfe but the in- #i£lion of punifhment. Rewards are occafion- ally bedowed; which confid in extraordinary 'didributions of fiefh or of meal. The men are ©ften permitted to hunt and fifh, each for his -own private ufe. Tfoe women rear fowls round their huts * and are wont, very properly, to give their eggs to their children. Hie fowf$, fwlMfl .ROUND THi ^ORLD. 91 the clothes, the little articleffef houf#hold furniture, are the property reflectively of the Indians who poffefs them. Thefe people have no other doors to their huts than fimple bundles of draw. Yet no indances of theft have ever occurred among them. The unconverted Indians are polygamids. Embracing Chriliianity, therefore, they muft facrifice whatever may be the fuppofed advantages of that licentious mode of intercourfe with the female fex.^l^The miffiona- ries act as vigilant guardians of female virtue. An hour after fupper, they fhut up, under lock and key, all the young girls who are above nine years of age, and all the married women whofe hufbands are abfent during the day: the matrons fuperintend the conduct of the young "girls. Violations of chaftity, from time to time$ take place, in fpite of all thefe precautions. The drefs even of thefe converted Indians is ftill extremely fimple : the riched wear a d©ak of otters fkin, which covers the loins,-and defcends below the groin; thofe who are poorer and more lazy, have only a fmall cloak of rabbits fkins to cover their moulders, with a piece of linen cloth, with which they are fupplied by the mrfltOnaries, to hide their nakednefs. Some indeed have hats of draw, very neatly^aited; the women wear cloaks of imperfectly tanned deer- lkin, which may be occafionally made into a fmall bodice with fleeves ; befides this they weaf no other apparel, except a fmall apron of ruflies, and a petticoat of dag's fkin falling down to the middle of the leg. The hair of both men and women is cut off at four or five incjies from thST roots. The Spaniards, who, in the firft formation of thefe fettlements, were actuated folety 92 LA PEYROUSE's VOYACF by motives ofJjlety, have more recently learned, from the publication of the voyage of Cook, that] they may become highly valuable in a commercial point of view, on account of the fursl which they are adapted to furnifh, and for which China prefents a ready market. New California is as yet entirely unprovided with colo- nids, unlefs we fhould account fuch a few draggling Spanifh foldiers, who have married Indian] women. Yet, if lefs didant from Europe, Cali- fornia would be found not lefs inviting than Vir-j ginia, to emigrants from Europe. In time, its vicinity to Afia may favour it as much in ref- pect to colonization, as the N. E. coafts of America have been favoured by their adjacency to Europe. The miffionaries, to whom the inhabitants of thefe parts owe their religious civilization, are almoft all Europeans- The Fran- cifcans have a college at Mexico. A part of the minion own the authority of the comman-J dantof Iffonterey :. The reft are fubject to the viceroy of Mexico. The Spanifh Government I allows the fum of 40opiaftres to each mifrionary; and their number is-fixed at two for each par rifli. The college of Mexico, however, never fends hither actual money, but only the value in commodities, wax candles for the church, chocolate, fugar, oil, wine, and linen for girdles to the Indians.. The falary of the Spanifh Governor of California is 4000 piaftres; that of the Lieutenant Governor 450 ; that of the Captain- Infpector. of the 283 cavalry diftributed in the two Californias, is 2000; each foldier of the cavalry has.2.»7 piaftres,., yearly, for his arms, horfe, and whole fubfiftence.. Thefe were the principal obfervations which the. French voya** ROUND THE WORLD. 93 gers were enabled to make cone^Sng the |Spani(h colinizatfon of the two CaUforntaS) and concerning the condition of thofe Indians wh© have been perfuaded there to embrace Chriflian* ity, and to fubmit themfelves inpeace to the gov- jerument of the Spanifh miflionaries. The wilder, unconverted Indians, difplay Ifbme ©f thofe virtues and talents peculiar to thp Ifavage character, which their converted brethre* appear to have loft. They draw the bow witli Inimitable fkill; and will bring down even the fmalleft birds with unerring aim. One of thefe Indians will fix upon his own the head with the horns of a flag ; will walk on all fours ; broufe the grafs; and by this and other practfees, fo deceive herds of thefe animals, that they ftiallj Without alarm, permit him to approach* near [enough to kill them with his arrows. Maize IwaS the only original object nof the Indian agriculture in thefe parts. Hunting and fifhing have been, and ftill continue to be, the grand jrefburces upon which thefe Indians depend f6r trhe means of fubfiftence. The independent Indians live diftributed in rancheries, or villages, They are accuftomed to paint their bodies red in ordinary life, but black, when they are to appear in the guife of mourning. .Tnt^tees of con* fanguinity are little acknowledged by them. The children quit their father's hut as ^on as they have acquired ftrength to procure the mea#s of fufiftence for themfelves. Their father, by' whom they have been reftrained, and harftily treated, is foon forgotten by them ; or, if remembered, remembered only with averfion. i Their mother, their relation to whom they knew ©nly fromhertendernefsjis longer and more kind* LA PEYROUSE ^VOYAGE ly remembered. Thefe independent hordes are often at war*among themfelves : But they ref- pect the Spanifii miffions. A wooden bow, lining with the finews of an ox, with arrows pointed with a ffiarp flint, are their ordinary weapons.^: As in Canada, they fcalp the vanquished in war, and pluck out their eyes,robe preferved as precious memorials of the vie*| tory. If they happen to lay on the field of ballj tie, an enctny whofe extraordinary prowefs they have been long accuftomed to dread, the furious joy ^victory, "#§1 in fuch a cafe, fometimes prompt them to quaff his blood, and devour his mangled, limbs. Yet, thev are not accuftomed to make an ordinary practice of eating in cold bloody cither the prifoners whom they take, or the namelefs dead whom they flay in war.ff'Of their own dead they burn the bodies, and depofit the afhes in rude funeral monuments. The takerfia and touffi, are the two games which employ their leifure ; and to thefe they are addicted with' paffionate fondnefs. The former is played with a fmall hoop, through which it is endeavoured to make certain fuitable flicks pafs, while it rolla round a fmooth fpace of ten fquare toifes on the ground. The touffi is played by hiding a pieced of wood in the hands on the one fide, while the other party in the play gueffes how the piece of wood u difpofed of. Beads, the favours of the women, and whatever elfe they poffefs of value, are the prizes of thefe games. The language of thefe people is far from being known in all the copioufnefs of its phrafes, or the analogy of its ffcructure. It is rather from the converted Indians, than from the wild natives, that we derive what knovfiedge is to be obtained of '8fc ROUND TEE WORLD. m The Achastliens, and the EccLEMACHS^the two tribes inhabiting near Monterey, fpeak each a different language. The language of the converted Indians in the miffions, is compounded out of both thefe two. Their abftract terms are fcanty. Their epithets for the qualities of moral objects, are almoft all borrowed from the fenfe of tafte. The^diftinguifh the plural from the Angular number; They vary their verbs through feveral diffetent tenfes. Their fub- dantives are .much more numerous than their [adjectives. They never ufe the labials,y, b, nor the letter x. The dipthong ou, appears in more* than half their words. Their mod common initial confonants are, /and k. None of them can eafily count, otherwife than upon their fin* gers, beyond the number five. The following are the numerical terms of the Achastliens : One, Moukala Two, Outis Three, Capes Four, Outite Five, Is Six, Etesake Seven, Kaleis Eight, Ouloufmafakhen Nine, Pak Ten, Ton fa The following are the numerical terms of the ECCLEMACHS : One, Pek Two, Quluch Three, Oullefi Four, Amnahon Five, Pemuca $6 LA PEYROTSE S YPYAGE #*1 ■'XL StXj | Pekolana Seven, Houlakoalans Eight, Houlefala Nine, Kamakoualane Ten, '%M\ Tomoila _•■ Here follow a few other words of the famei language. Friend, - Bow, Beard, To dance, Teeth, Skull, No, Yes, Father, Mother, Star, Night, Nigefech Pagonach JUcotre Mefpa Acur Opahabos Muul Ike Aoi Atzia Aimoulas Toum&nes No country in the world is more abundant than California, in game and fifh of every de- fcription. The thickets and plains abound with fmall grey tufted partridges, fat and finely flavoured, and which appear commonly in companies of three or four hundred together, Sparrows, tit-mice, fpeckled wood-peckers, and tropic birds, are found in prodigious numbers, im the woods. Hares, rabbits, and dags, are very common. Seals and otters are found in great numbers ^.and to the northward, there are multitudes of bears, foxes, wolves, and wild cats, killed in the winter. Among the birds of prey*] are, the white headed eagle, the great and fmall falcon, the gofs-hawk, the fparrow-hawK, the black vulture, the great owl, and the raven. A 4>ee-eater, whick&as been fuppofed to be |>ec«- ROUND THE WbRLJr. 97 liar to the old continent, was here killed, and duffed by the French ornithologifts. Wild ducks, the grey and white pelican with yellow tufts, different fpecies of gulls, cormorants, cur*- lieus, ring-plovers, fmall fea-water hens, and herons, are feen on the ponds and on the fea-fhore. The foil is wonderfully fertile. n^Farinaceous^ roots and feeds of all kinds afford a moft abundant increafe. The crops of maize, barley, corn, and peas, are to be equalled only in Chili. The medium produce of corn is from 70 to 80 for one ; the extremes are 60 and 1 o®, Fruit trees have not yet been introduced in any confidera- . ble number or variety. The moft prevalent for- eft trees are the ftone-pine, Cyprus, evergreen oak, and the accidental plane-tree. Th^lppefts are clear of under-wood, and exhibitionder the (hade of the lofty trees of which they are com- pofed, a verdant carpet of grafs. Vaft favan- nahs are interfperfed among the forefts. The rivers are not numerous; and were it not for the moifture of the atmofphere, the face of the ground might perhaps .prove too arid for vegetation. |J£q It was in the evening of the 14th of Septem^; ber, that the two frigates eaft anchor off Monterey, in view of the prefidency and of the fhips in the road, and at the diftance of about two leagues from the fhore. ^At 10 o'clock, the captain of a corvette in the road, came, in his [ jlqpg boat, to the fhip of M. de la Peyroufe, and [offered to pilot the frigates into the port. ^ At I'o ©'clock on the next morning, the frigates weighed Anchor, and proceeded into the road. At no©nJ||hey eaft anchor in a fafe fituation fwithln thfeoad, and were faluted with a dSRr. $% LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE !43p§ 're "W ■ % charge .of 7 guns from the Spanifh veffels which they found in it. M. de la Peyroufe, withouM delay, difpatched an officer to the governor of Monterey, with an open letter to the viceroy of Mexico, of which M. de la Peyroufe was the bearer from France. M. Fages, commandant of the fort of the two Californias, had already received orders to treat the French voyagers, whenever they fhould arrive, with every poffible demonftration of civility and refpect. Oxen, roots, greens, and milk, were immediately fenj| board the French fhips in great plenty. ©n There was a fort of conteft between the commandant of the fort and the captains of the two Spanifh veffels in the road, who fhould fhow the moft kindnefs to the French : Only for the oxen, fheep, and corn, which were wanted for the fupply of the fhips, could M. de la Peyroufe prevail with their kind entertainers to accept any pecuniary compenfation." Roots, greens, milk, fowls, and the affiftance of all the labourers of the garrifon,inprocurringwood and water, were eagerly afforded to the French navigators, without price. ^The houfe and fervants of M. Fages were, during their flay, entirely at their difpofal. The miffionaries from the neighbourhood, politely came to invite them to dine with them, and to acquaint themfelves with the rules of the management of the millions. Accepting this invitation, they rode with great pleafure to St. Charles, at the diftance of two leagues from Monterey; they were there received by the miffionaries with folemn hofpitality. In the church, at their meals, at their labours, in every obvious mode of expofition, the .corverted Indians were prefented to their obfervation. M. ROUND THE WORLD. w de Langle, pitying their difficult and imperfect mode of working their grain into meal, made them a prefent of his mill; which is likely to prove one of the higheft benefits that could be conferred on them ; for by means of it four women may now perform the fame quantity of work which formerly required the toil of an hundred. The foldiers of the prefidency made themfelves exceedingly ufeful to our voyagers jduring their flay at Monterey. M. de la Peyroufe, with the permiffion of the commandant,, prefented them with a piece of blue cloth. To the miffionaries for the ufe of the Indians in their millions, he fent coverlids, fluffs, beads, tools1 of iron, with a variety of other little articles^ the remains of what had been diftributed at Port de Francois. The gardener belonging to the frigates, gave to the miffionaries fome potatoes of Chili, in a ftate of very perfect preferva- tion, which are likely to prove hereafter of great utility to the inhabitants of this region. The French botanifts no fooner got on fhore, than they fet themfelves, with the moft diligent activity, to enlarge their collections. But the feafon was too far advanced ; the plants were no longer in flower, and their feeds were difper- fed over the ground. The common wormwood, the.fea wormwood, fouthernwood, raugwort, the Mexican tea, the golden rod of Canada,, the Italian ftarwort, milfoil, deadly nightshade, fpurrey, and water-mint,, were the only remarkable plants obferved in the fields round Monterey. From the gardens they obtained a great abundance of pot-herbs : and particularly fuch quantities of pulfe as were no where elfe to be met with. The mineralogifts were far from- 100 LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE being very fortunate in their refearcheS*. Lm& light argillaceous ftone, with fome refemblance of marie ; blocks of granite, concealing in their veins fome fpecimens of cryftalized feldTpar ; with fome rounded fragments of porphyry and granite; were the only very remarkable foffils they could find : except only fome fuperb haliotes, each of which might be 9 inches in length by 4 in breadth; there1 were no other remarkable Jhelis to be feen. On the fouth and eaft coafts of old California, indeed, are oyfters, the pearls of which yield not in fize or beauty to thofe of Ceylon or Baffora. The aftsonomers belonging, to the French expedition, were, at the fame time, diligently attentive to their duty.' M. Da- gelet, taking his quadrant on fhore, endeavoured to determine, with the greateft accuracy, the latitude of Monterey, which has been already mentioned : and no obfervation," which the fhortnefs of their flay would permit him to make, was neglected. J On the evening of the 22d of September—-wood, water, dry and frefh provi- lions, with whatever other fupplies our vova- gers here fought, had been taken on board. They bade farewell to their kind hofts. On the 23d, the winds were, adverfe; but on the 24th, they were enabled to fail with a fair wef- tern breeze. ROUND THE WORLD. IOL | CHAP. W. M Narrative of the Voyage continued, from the 24th of September 1786, to the 2d of January 1787.- Courfe from Monterey to the Road of Macao. EPARTING from the weftern coaft'of America, the French navigators were now to deer acrofs the great Weftern ocean, as far as China. The feas through which they were to fail, were known only to the Spaniards, and even to them but imperfectly. The Spaniards have long been fatisfied to fail in one fingle tract in their voyage from Aeapulco to Manilla, lying within a fpace of 20 leagues between the 13 deg. and 14 deg. of Latitude ; while, on their return, they run nearly in the parallel of 40 deg. by the aid of weftern winds, which are in thefe feas very common. But new difcoveries were the object of the voyage of the French navigators : and it of confequence became them to mun frequented tracts with the fame care with which mere ly, trading navigators drive to;pur- fue fuch tracts. Only, the neceffity of reaching China about the end of tne year, made it requi- fit© for them to keep within the zone of the trade-winds. M. de la Peyreufe, therefore, re- fblved: to direct his courfe to the fouthward, as far as to the ifland of Nostra Senora de la Gor- TAf which geographers have defcribed as exift- ing in the 28 deg. of N. Lat. Calms and adverfe winds detained them yet for 2 days longer within fight of Monterey. B ut the wind foon became fixed at N. w. and the frigates were then permitted to reach the parallel ©f 28 deg; Their firft progrefs was very fortu-i 1 2 102 LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE nate. To the N. W. winds fucceeded others from the N. E. which gave them hopes of quickly reaching the region of the trade-winds. On the 18th of October, however, the winds again changed to the weftward ; and they continued, for eight or ten days, to blow, without any confiderable variation, from that quarter. The weather was, in the mean time, tempeduous and rainy : there was condantly much moifture between the decks ; and M. de la Peyroufe ber gan to be greatly alarmed, left, in thefe unfavourable circumflances, the crews of the frigates fhould be attacked by the fcurvy. On the 27th of October, they reached the meridian on which* they wifhed to proceed. Nothing gave any fig- nal of the vicinity of land, except fome fand pipers of two different fpecies, which were caught on board L'Aftrolabe. But thefe were very. lean, and mighf poffibly have come from the Sandwich Ifles, from which they were not now more than 120 leagues didance. No ifle of Noftra Senora de la Gorta was here to be feen. The French navigators ftrove now to approach the tropic, in order to meet with the trade winds, and in hopes that theltemperature. of the tropical climates, would prove the moft favourable to the health of the fhip's companies. On the ^d of November, in 24 deg. 4 min. N. Lat. in 16 deg. 2 miii. W. Long, noddies, man-of-war- birds, and terns, hovered about them in great; numbers. Thefe fowls feldom fly far from land. On the 4^ accordingly, the frigates -came within fight of an ifland which bore W„ irons them, foj* 4 or 5 leagues. At 5 o'clock, ill the morning of the 5th, being only 3 leagues from the ifland, tj&y failed to reconnoitisdt. It ROUND THE WORLD. I0J is a very fmall ifle ; about 50© toifes in length:;, not more than 60 in its elevation above the level of the fea. No tree is feen on it; but its top is covered with luxuriant grafs. The barren part of the rock is whitened with the dung of fea-fowls^li Other fpots, which are neither verdant, nor covered with this dung, appeared red; [Its extremities are perpendicular like a wall ; and the fea breaks all around, with a violence which feems to render it inacceffible. Our nav* igators failed round it; and at the diftance of one- third of a league, and took a very exact plan of it. Its latitude was determined by M. Dagelet to be in 23 deg. 34 min. N. its longitude, in 166* deg. 52 min. It received from M. de la Peyroufe the name of Isle Neckar. .TheS. E. point prefents a fmall ridge of rocks, which 1 Seems to extend for about two cable's length ; and this is the only part which breakers do not (make inacceffible. Sounding as they paffed near to this point, the French navigators were furprized to find a bottom of broken fhells, under only 25 fathoms deep of water. It fhotild feem that Ifle Neckar is but the fummit of 91 much more confiderable ifland, of which the fofter materials have been gradually waftied away by the fea. Over a fpace of i© miles from the above mentioned ridge of rocks, no other bottom than coral and broken-fhells was to be found. Beyond the extremity of that fpace, our aavigators, founding with 150 fathoms of line, could find no bottom at all. The weather was now rainy, with frequent :ranfient blafts of wind. At fun-fet however,, land arjjother times, when the face of the fky would for fome moments clear up, the hori^W lev LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE would open around, for a fpace of 10 or 1: leagues. Sea-fowls ftill continued to hovei around thera, in flights of feveral hundreds together, and moving in various directions, whicl made it impoffible to afcertain, with precifion. to what quarter they went. The moon irradiatec the nights with a luftre which tempted our navigators to fleer on, though with a motion fome- what flower than during the day. Jr While thej were thus advancing, they perceived, toward.4 half an hour paft one o'clock in the morning, breakers at two cable's length a head of the fhips They founded, and found nine fathoms water with a rocky bottom. Soon afterwards, the founding indicated ten fathoms ; twelve fathoms. In about a quarter of an hour, however, the] got no ground with fixty fathoms. They hac efcaped a danger the moft terrible to whi<| navigation can be expofed. For nearly an houi afterwards, they perceived the continuation oi the breakers. They held their courfe weft ward; and within three hours, had loft fight of then! De#irous to afcertain, beyond a doubt, the ex iftence of that funken rock upon which they hac been near to perifhing ; they again turned thei: eourfe in the morning; returned within view oi it; perceived an iflet of fplit rock, the diametel of which might be about 50 toifes ; 'in its height from 20 to 25 fathoms. That iflet formed thi N. W. extremity of a reef of rocks extendiM more than 4 leagues to the S. E. It was on the S. E. point of the reef, that our. navigators ha4 been expofed to the danger of perifhing. Between the iflet and the S. E. breakers, were three fand-banks, raifed not more than (our feet abovt the level of the fea. Thefe were parted fron ROUND THE WORLD. I05 one another by a fort of greenifh water, which did not feem to be a fathom deep. . Rocks, level with the water, furrounded that fhoal as a circular inclofure : and, on their exterior fides, the fea broke with extreme violence. Of the • northern part of thefe rocks, our navigators could |OJ)tain only a bird's eye view from the maft- head. Perhaps it may run in that direction to a farther extent than it appeared to them to do. Its length, from S. E. to N. W. is 4 leagues; its geographical fituation, eftimated from its only vifible part, is in 23 deg. 45 min. N. Lat. in 168 deg. 10 min. W. Long. It lies 23 deg. 20 •min. N. W. from Isle Neckar, It is not fafe to approach it nearer than at the diftance of 4 leagues. The French navigators named it, on laccount of the danger to which they had been expofed by coming too near to it, Basse des JFregates Frai*caiSe.JPt will be of infinite importance to futtfre navigators, who fliall have pccafion to fail in this courfe, that the exiftence and the extent of this ledge of rocks have been thus accurately afeertained, and made known. Our navigators now directed their courfe to "he W. S. W. In this direction, they had rea>- fon to hope that they might the fooneft find land. They croffed the tract of Captain Clark, at 179 deg. of E.Long, on the roth of November. They had hoped that they fhould now fall in with the trade-winds. Yet, for fome time longer they had varying winds, drifting Chiefly between S. W. and N. E. contrary to what the experience of former navigators had led [hem to expect. At 2 o'clock in the afternoon bf the 14th of December, they reached the Ma* manxe Islands. Jn the latter part of their io6 LA PEYROUSE'S VO#AGE progrefs hither, they had in vain attempted to difcover the Mir a, Defert, and Garden Iflands of the common maps. Finding, however, no fuch ifles, they concluded, perhaps too haftily, that they muft have no real exiftence. Among thei Marianne Iflands, they found Assumption Island to have its true pofition in 19 deg. 45 mi5| N. Lat. in an 143 deg. 15 min. E. Long. Its circumference cannot be more than 3 leagues.^ Imagination cannot conceive the existence of a place more horrible in the afpect. It feemed a perfect cone, of which the furface was black- as coal, to the height of 4© toifes above the level of the fea. A few cocoa nut trees ap-i peared in a hollow of about 40 toifes, in whiq&j they were in fome meafure fheltered from thei eaft wind. There, was the only place where it feemed poffible for fhips to anchor : and the anchorage at that part, was, for a quarter of a league, a bottom of black fand under water thirty fathoms deep. The Aftrolabe here anchored. La Bouffole wa& prevented by an accident, from coming to anchor. The boats of the two frigates were fent on fhore. In them went M. de Langle, with Meffrs. Boutin, De la Marti^ mere, Vaujuas, Prevoft, and Father Receveur;*] They landed not without extreme difficulty. The ifland appeared to them a thoufand times more horrid than at a quarter of. a league's diftance, . it feemed to be. It prefented ravines and precipices which had been formed by torrents of lava; and were bordered by fome few ftunted cocoa trees, amidft which grew fome creeping plants, matted together in a manner that made it almoft impoffible to walk among them. About an hundred cocoa nuts were ROUND THE WORLD. IP7 picked up under the trees. But the difficulty q{ the way was fuch, 'that fifteen or fixteen perfons were employed from nine in the morn- pig till noon, infringing thefe on board the boats. The fummit of the cone forms, as it mould feem, the crater of this volcanic ifle. jAround its fides, the lava has dreamed down, 3-nd has become folid as- it cooled. A cloud pid the highed point from the view of the French navigators. But a fmeil of fulphur, which it emitted to the didance of half a league out at |ea, induced them to think that its volcanic fires |were not yet entirely extinguished, and that its Tad eruption might have happened at no great pittance of time backward. No human inhabitants, no quadrupeds, feemed to have as yet bhofen thefe defolate fcenes for a place of refuge. |On the fhore were fome large crabs. At the [anchorage were feen three or four noddies. M. de Langle killed on the ifle a bird of a black colour, not unlike to our European black-bird. In [the hollows of the rocks, were found fome very [fine (hells. A collection of plants, and among [chefe three or four different fpecies of Banana trees, which M. de la Peyroufe had, not elfe- where feen, were brought on board. The only fifties which the French navigators faw here, were the red ray, the fmall fhark, and a fea fer- pent, about three feet in length, and three inches in thicknefs.* About two ©'clock in the af- rernoon, the boats returned to the fhips, after laying been expofed to confiderable danger^. About three o'clock they renewed their courfe, proceeding W. N. W. in a direction at three or ibur-league's diftance from Mangs, another of &4S group of ifles which bore to them N. E, by L ioS LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE N. Had it not been for the delay it would have o ccafioned, M. de la Pevroufeyc&uld have wifhed to have afcertained the precife fituatioaT' of UracaIs, the moft northern ot^the Marianne4 ifles ; but his arrangements would not leave him time to accomplifh this obje£l. As t&ey advan-»* ced, innumerable birds hovered around'then! Among thefe, the man of-war-bird and the nod-; dy were the moft common. Gu^ls, terns, and tropic birds, likewife appeared in the crowd. In the channel between the Mariannes and the Philipines, the breezes were ftrong, the fea ran high, and our navigators Were conftantly driven fouthwardby the currents. La Bouffole was n@w, for the firft lime, obferved to admit fome water ; and, upon examination, feveral of ' her feams were found to be almoft entirely open. On thefe, however, it was impoffible to workj till the frigates fhould arrive in the road of Macao. On the 28th of December, our voyagers came within fight of the Bashee ifland. They paffed at about a league's diftance from the two moft northern iflets or rocks of this group. Of thefe two, the fmalleft is half a league in circumference 5 and there appeared to be on its eaft fide a good deal of grafs: Its weft longitude, fixed from the medium of more than fixty lunar obfervations, is 119 deg. 41 min. its north lati- . tudein2i deg. 9 min. 13 fee. FrOm thefe Ifles, our navigators continued their courfe to China. On the firft of January 1787, they had approached (o near to the Chinefe coaft, that their foundings indicated a bottom under fixty fathoms depth of water. Next day they were furrounded by Chinefe fifhing boats, which fifh- ed by dragging over the bottom with very long I fo LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE - ' C H A ^ VII. Narrative afith^Voy^ges^ntipued, from t$e gJ of January to the gth ofudpril, 1787.- Trj^gfactions at Macao, with a JDefcriptioti of that Place M JPaffage to Litconia : and thence to Manilla A\ Defiription of Manilla, &c. A 1 I II jfjJT Maca©, our voyagers expected a favourable reception from Ihe Portuguefe : They approached the town 4 and M. Boutin was fent on' ihore to announce their arrival to the governccl He failed not to make every offer of all the afliftn ance in his power. A M&Iay pilot, fent from\ Siim, conducted thereto the anchorage ©f Typ- j»a. At day-break on the 4th, they proceeded; towards tliat anchorage ; at eight o'clock in the fflidrning, they were at five miles N. W. from! the townof Macao, upon a muddy ground, under three fathoms and a fialf depth of water They eaft anchor along fide of a French armed veffel, whi.iyKwas commanded by M. de Rich© ry, enfign m the Navy ; which had been fent to cruize on thefe eadem coafts, for the protection of the French trade. It may be naturally conceived, that our navigators had infinite pleafure in meeting, after fo long an abfence, with a] Chip's company of their countrymen. They! were, however, very painfully difappointed, in not finding at Maca© thofe pacquets of letters which they hadexpe&ed. It unluckily happened, that, out of two fhips which alone had failed from France, to arrive, this feafon, at China, •one had miffed its paffage : and on board this one, they now fuppofed that their letters might have been put. ROUND THE WORLD*. Ilf Softer their fhips were fafely moored,. Meffrs. lie la Peyroufe, and De Langle, went on fhore to thai&the Portuguefe governor for tlie favours he had akeady fhoWn them. He received them with as much kindnefs as if he had been their [fellOn^ountryman ; begged them to ufe his [houfe as their own : and introduced thftsfcji&his [wife, a young and beautiful Portuguefe lady |%om, dEjifbon, who, fpeaking French with great [facility, aeted> as interpreter between her hut- band and, the FrenchfecafH^lnSv This lady, Do*- [na Maria de Saldagna, had. about twelve years ibefore^^nanied M. de Lemos, at Goa.'Very foon after their marriage, M. de la Peyroufe had [happened to be introduced to helsin that city. ;He wasnow proud to? find, fehat fhe recollected &im as an old acq$84mtance^ >a#4 h^ in feeing her ch^klren, wlnlm (he ptefented. to \k#tn. Every accommodation wbict^ our voya- Igers de fired, and which it was in the Portuguefe governor's power to bellow,, was readily fuppli- ed to them during the whole term of their flay in the road of Macao. Tho fcttlement of Macao was bedewed by the Chinei^empferor, Camhy,upon the Port^uefe, in gratitude for the fervice which they rendered him, by deilroyingj in the ifles- adjacent- to Canton, the pirates,who infefted thefe feas, and ravaged all the Chinefe coafts.. - But, its .original privileges are no longer duly reflected. The Chinefe, infolent and oppreffive to all the Europeans who trade with them, .are particularly fo to the Portuguefe^i Macao ftand$J$the mouth of the river Tigris, in 22 deg. 12 rtttn.4©fec. of N. Lat&in 1 n deg. 19 min. 3Qjyfee. F. Long. Its road, at the entrance of Typa, has fuifrfient 112 LA FEYR© USE'S VOYAGE H;. ■ 4epih of wategpfor the reception of a 64. gun ihip. Ships even of feven or eight hundred tons burden, can enteriifrlf laden into its port beloW< the city, A fortrefs of two batteries defends the entrance of tfce port. Three other fmall forts, mounted in all with 30 guns, guard the fouthern part ©f the city from the enterprifesOT the Chinefe. A contiguous mountain, which commands the circumjacent country, appears to have had once a fortrefs on its fummit, whick muft have been impregnable. But the fort:has been differed to fall into ruins ; and a church has been built there inftcad of it. ^Pwo •citadels, of which the one mounts 40, the other ■ 30 guns, defend the land-fide of the Portuguefe poffeflMi of Macao. The liMits of the Portuguefe domain extend fearce a league from the city. They are, at the didance, bounded by a wall which a Mandarin, with a few foldiers, guard. The Portuguefe town and t#ritory ace fubject to the occafional vifits of this Mandarin ; and whenever he enters it, the Portuguefe are expected to fahite fits approach with the discharge of five guns. Yet, he may not fleep on the Portuguefe fide of the wall. Twenty ffcou- fand fouls maybe the whole number of the population of Maca©. Of thefe, an hundred are by birth Portuguefe ; about two thoufand Portuguefe Indians; twb thoufand Caffre flaves, the dome ft ic fervants of the Portuguefe; the reft, Chinefe artizans, or merchants. The Portuguefe, whether of Indian or European birth, cherifh a pride which teacltes them rather to ftarve or beg, than employ tJiemfelves in the mechanic arts. A governor, a fenate compofed ©f three vercadore, with the governor presiding D T«E WOR&Efc **3 over them, two judges of orphans, the agenjfcfor the *city, and a treafarer of the cuftoms, difcharge ..the pri£§i§^d functions^|^|ePortuguefe government of Macaft*^ All thefemafnftratesare nom- inated bywthe v|$eioy of Goa. The fenate have the jfupreme fuperintendence of the revenues of the i^jty. The judges ©f orphans have the charge of the property of minors, the nomination of til- tors and guardians, with the right of decifion in all difcuffions rppedting, the fucceffion to estates : There is, however a right of appeal to Goa, from 4heir fentences^ The agent of the 4ltflV acts as the medi|feBi of communication be- 4 .■fifteen the twfe governments of Portugal and China. He receives, and tranfmits to their ref- pec*ijif^governments, the reciprocal complaints of the two nations. He jj^ the. only perfon in the government of I$acao, that ispot removea- ble out of office ajgthe ple^fure of the viceroy of Goa. The garrifon of Ma$ao confifts of 180 fea-poys, and 14$ militia. "Jjie fold^ft^are armed with flakes; their officers^ '^ideed, wear jp^rords, but dar^e not draw them againft a Chi-- nefe. The fervice of the g#ard confids in for-- r^ing J9Jght|ptroles^>^Yet, if an^of them fhould furprize a Qyjuefe robber h*#$Jjin|»sinto a houfe-, and fhould kiiyiim ; the lucklefs foldier would- be delivered over to the- Chinefe governor, arid would be hanged in the middle of the markfi|K ;rface. The appearane^of the cit^-^Macao is iTSIjWpk^fe1^ Supercargoes belonging to the . different European companies which trade to the Ead, are obliged to pafs tlie winters here, and occupy the bed houfes in»e town. Seveial of thef<$ fupercargoes a^-men of didinguifhed worj;h and intelligence. The emoluments they K W 11-4 LA PEYROUSE S VCYAOE- If I enjoy, ensile them to lifce in confiderable lux aery and fplendor. They ^compofe altog^rfterf a very agreeable feciety ; the French experienced from them a very kind and hofpitable reception. M. Eldockendrom, principal fecretary fbHihe Swedifh Eaft India CompatTy, treated* them with the lindnefs of an old friend, ©r rathM er of a fellow-countryman, zealous £0f the glory of tipir country : He obligingly undertook t© fell their peltry, and to remtt^the produce to* the Ifle of France. Whe commerce of the Chi- nefewithlpurope, of the tranfaclions of which a pjrfrt are carried on at Macao, amounts to fifty millions annually; of thefe, two-fifths are paid bv the Europeans, in filver.^ Payment is made for the red in Englifh cloth, Batavian or Molucca tin, cott©n from Surat awl Bengal, ©phwn from Patna, fandil-wood and pepper from the coaft of Malabar t lookfeg-glaffes of the largeft dimenfions, Geneva and Englifh watches, coral,fine pearls, and a few other articles of European produce, are alfo among the goods accepted by the Gtfaefe. Now, the only Chinefe goods which the Europeans purchafe with all this wealth, are black aad green teas, feme chefts of raw (ilk, and an inconfiderable quantity of china-ware. Yet with fuch haughtinefs do the Chinefe conduct themfelves in the management of a commerce which is to them fo lucrative, that it may with truth, be faid, that there is not a fingle cup of tea drank in Europe, wtiich has not been the caufe of humiliation to thofe who purchafed it at Canton. 1&e French voyagers had every reafon to be fatisfied with their reception, and with the kindnefs which they experienced during their ROUN^THE \$ORL0~ 2 IS ftay among the Portuguefe, and the other Europeans, in Macao. The Chinefe mandarin de- mauded noting for their flay in the road of Typa.j^But a knavifh purveyor who undertook 4Kjj» futiifli tfeem with provifions, and impofed upon them fo enormoufly, that they were ofefeged after five or fix days to difmifs him, had been compelled, as they underftood, to fhare his profits with the government. From the period at, |which they 4$ifcharged this purveyor, their own commiffary for provisions went dajfy to market, aS'lnlany town of Europe : and by this management, they contrived to make the total expence of a whole month, lefs than that of the firft (week had been. But, thU ©economy was probably not very pleafing to the Chinefe. Th& temperature of the climate, in the road of Ty- |pa, being exceedingly variable, the French navigators during their ffey in it, were almoft all affected with fevere colds accompanied wir&fe- Iver. They found the value of furs to be not above a tenth part-of what it. wa? when Captains Gore and King a|Sf*v©d at Canton. The Eii- feliflx had fince fpoiited the market, by the ea- gernefs o$their endeavours to fuppfy it. It was kow impoffiMcJtO obtain more than twelve or fifteen piafters, for fuck a fur as would have brought an hundred piafters in the year 1780. The whole flock which our w&^igators had brought from the N. W. coaft- of Amelia (amounted to the number of a thoufand fmtisi ifftefe a Portuguefe merchant lfitd pi&chafed> for nine thoufand and five hundred piaftres. But when the money wa8*%© be paid, he made pre- . tences to recede from hit bargain, of tJHrpofe, as |wa&t&ppOf#d> -to obtatfc- the furs' &ifi cheaper* LA ?EYjX$USe SuVOYJilGE- Rather than fubmit to the impofition which this man meditated, the French commanders thought proper to depofite their furs- at Macao^ under the care of their Swedifh friend above mentioned, for fale at. fome future opportunityi Their obfervatory was creeled at Macao, in the convent of the Auguftines i. and, from a medi<- um of feverial obfervations of distances between the fun and the moon, they were enabled to fix the eaftern longitude of this city, at.mi deg. I p min. and 30 fee. Thej^ at the fame time, found their time-keepers to have, been of late more deranged than at the firft, in their move*- ments- < . Having finifhed all their tranfactions atMaeaid they left it on the 5 th of February, at £ o'clock in the morning, with a north wind. The crew of each frigate was now augmented with fix Chi*, nefe fa&ors, taken on board to fupply the lofs of thofe who had perifhed at Porte de Francoi& Sailing without a pilot they followed a common courfe, and paffed to the Southward 0$ the great Ladrone Ifland. . The north winds at firft enin bled them to ftand to the eaftward. Soon after*) thefe came round to the E. S. E. They paffeoj on the leeward of the Bank de Prat as, whicH had been inaccuratelyJaid down in all the charts* fave that by Captain HSfig, in the account of Cook's third -voyage*. Variable winds hindered them froin following.always the parecife courfe which they had plantedout for themfelves, but on the i^h of February they reached the ifland of Luconia, in the latitude of 18 deg. 14 mini Here they were difappoi&ted of .falling ^mediately in with the m.onfoon winds, as they.hadox.-r pe&ed. From various caufes, they did-nc/t^i.] ROUND THE WORLD. a si the 19th of Februlfcy, advance more than a league a day. The winds becoming at length more fav vourable, they failed along the IllicS' coaft, at the diftance of two leagues from it. In the port of Santa Cruz they faw a fmall two-mafH- ed veffel, which they fuppofedimight be taking in rice for China. None of the bearings of our voyagers were here found to agree with the Ichart of M. Dapres. On the 20th they doubled Cape Bulinas. On the 21ft, they came in fight of Point Lapones, bearing E. from them exactly in the windys eye. In the afternoon, the wind fuddenly fhifted io E, S. E. and they di- :re£led their courfe between Marivelle Islanb and the ifle of La Monha. After fome unfuc- cefsful attempts to enter the north channel, they were obliged to come to an anchor in the Port of Marivelle, where there was eighteen fathoms depth of water over a muddy bottom. This port [is fheltered from all but the S. W. winds ; and its ground is fo good, that even thefe will fearce- ly drive a fhip lying here from its anchorage. A fhort day i.^the Port of Marivelle, for the purpofe of procuring wood, gave the French voyagers an opportunity of acquiring fome knowledge pf this ifle; their attempts to procure fome fifties, by hauling the tine, were unfuccefs- ful, on account of the rocks, and the fhallownefs of the water near the fhore. They picked up* laonrich their collection of fliells, fome curious fpecimens of that which is najned the thorny wood-cock. On fhore, they came to a village confiding of about forty houfes. The foundations of thefe houfes were raifed about four feet from the ground. Their walls and floors were [of Bamboo, and their roofs were covered with II LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE leavesS'They afcended%y ladders. ThUytetfc much the appearance of b«l-cages fufpended il£ the air. The whole materials of--/ftfch a houfe, would, moft probably, not weigh more than two $foidred weig&tffv'A large ruinous edifice of hewn ft©ne,. with' two brafs gifts at its windows* was ©bferved in the front of the principalftreeti.' That houfe had been the abode of the curate, the :ehUreh, and the fort, till in the year-a 780* the Moors from the ifles te the feuth of itlfe Philip* pines burned the "village, demolifhed this^fori trefs, and carried aim oft all the inhabitants of the place away as captives. The colony has i <been ever fince in a flate of decline. The lands are overgrown with weeds ; and there are few fame animals. A young ox, a fmali hog, and about a dozen fowls, were all that the French voyagers could purchafe here. The curate, a young mulatto Indian, inhabited the ruinous ■ ffeene building. His whole furniture confifted of a few earthern pots, and a paltry bed. A«> bout two hundred perfons compofed, 33 he iru- formed our voyagers, the whole number of l«i.: parifhonerfe.! rThefe are liable to be continually alarmed by the piratical defcents of the Mcorl, from whom they flee in trepidation, to the*? woods. By thefe Mcoxifii pirates, the trading boats which fail thefe feas,- are liable to be c6n|.- taoually harraffed. They fail in very light rowing boats,; fc-thai itfis extremely difficult either to efcape or overtake the fwiftnefs $ I their movements. The nex-tnin-'; authority after j the curate, among thefe villagers, is an Indian ©fficer named alcade, who alone has the honour of carrying a filver headed cane. Such is his authority over the Indians, that none of them. -RO&ND THE WORLD. II9 ■dared to felttttle *4fftal&jj| ar^te to the French* ikange*S|<#itil he f&d grg&ted hispermidion, and^fven fixed tbtfjprice. Thisoflicer is like- wife the fole vender of tobacco. He fells it on account of the government; and the poor Im dian3 ouy and confume it w^ih extreme fonft* InefSk At the houfe of the curate, the French navigators fawlfliree fmall^ntetepes, which did not ex^ed the fize of a large rabbity and of which the mal<ifetnd the female feemed exactly a flag and a hitfd, in miniatureJf! Thefe the cu- irate intended for prefents to the governor of Manilla. Sonsrbeautiful birds, with plumage rvartegated with the moft lively colours, attracted the notice of the Frenchr'Jpe&fmen in the woods. But the forefts were impenetrable, on? account of the twining fhn&bs which filled up bheTpaces armdd the tpfcks of the tall trees. p^hey pur^afedpisHthe village feme turtle doveg?, Iwhich haviag on the middle of tike bread a ti$L. foot, exa6j$v fimilaf to a wound given by the cut. of a knife, have hence acquired the denomination of fiabbed turtle dives. *$&$:■ After paffing the -greater part of a day in snaking- fuch \ obfetvatibns as thefe, on the W& ind of ^larweMe ; the French ^navigators went in the-evening on board their fhips, and preparing to renew th$r voyage on the next morning. From a Spanifh fhip 4tt.theport,- M. de la Peyroufe obtained an old Indian for e. pilot, who agreed for-15^piadre& tooofldu&ihkn to Cavite. On the 2$?t|ipat day-break^rthey failed through fehefou^ierni channel; t$fbile the Indian pilot kontinuedto carry them away to the fbuthward, fte had vesy tfidarfy occafioned afee frigates to rune aground on the -Bank of St. Nicholas. They F230 LA *EYR©USE S VOYAGE l*$ found that Dapres's Chart, though far from exact, was much more to be traded than fuch a guide. Their courfe was but for 7 leagues^ and they fpent three days upon it. ftAt lad, on the 28th of February, they came to an anchor in the Bay of Manilla, and in the Port of Cavite, in three fathoms depth of water, over a muddy bottom, and at two cable's length from the towM They had not been long at anchor before Ca-*- vite, when an officer of high rank arrived from Manilla to invite them thither. But the favour-* able cirucmftances in which their fhips lay at anchor, induced them to decline his invitation. M. Boutin accompanied this officer on his retain to Manilla, in order to wait upon the governor-general in name of the French command- er, and to requeft the governor to give orders tkat the French might be furnifhed with whatever fupplies they wanted, before the 5th day o£ April. M. Boutin experienced the moft polite reception from the governor-general; and the moft pofitive orders were iffued for the furnifn- ing the fupplies which he required. A letter from the governor-general to the commandant ©f Cavite, authorized the latter to permit the French navigators to hold free intercourfe with? the (hore, and to procure from it every requifite afiiftance and convenience. From this time, they experienced the moft obliging hofpitality from the inhabitants of Cavite. Their intercourfe with the fhore*was very frequent and ve-:- ry agreeable. Houfes for repairing their fails, faking their provifions, building two boats, erecting their obfervatory, and lodging their Natural- ids and Engineers ; were furnifhed with an ho£< pitable readinefsand a happy accommodation^ &0^f|fP THE W<>|&E*« lit which they&ould hardly ^"^experienced, evetl in any port of Europe. M. Bermudes, cot&i. mander'iirthciPortof Cavite, paid the moft:i £duous attention to; all their wants and wifhes. On the 2d day after their arrival at Cavite, the tw© French captains, with feveral of their offi- «q&rs, failed in their boats, to vifit the city of Manilla. They were entertained by the governor at dinner; he then fent the captain of his^guards to conduct them totheh©ufes ©f the Archbifli- [Op, the Intend ant, and the other princffi^ofS. xers: of the government, refident in Manilla. pBiey would have been exceedingly inc6ouno&- j-ed by the exceflive heat, had nk M. Sebir, a French Merchant, politely fent them his coach to coraduft them on the different vifits which kieyiiad to pay in the town. At Manilla, M. d^la Peyroufe fawM. IF©bias,once governor of the Mariannes, whofe character had been hon- |©uredby Raynal with fuch praifes,that hiscoua^ teamen were -excited to abhor him as an unbeliever i and ©yen his own wife, a woman mad% mutiacal'liied out a divorce ^afeft him, on account of his infidelity. The French officers ■could not but in gratitude pay a vi'fit to their gaging cou«itryi«an, M. Sebir. They fo and bim to be a mam of a verjfcienlightened under- ppiding^ and an excellent heart. Heiradeome :o Manilla with haper«f finding here commer- 'timl advantages,,: of whiclUiealready faw himfolf ^appointed by the prejudices againft ftrangere, ind thedefpotifm of the admiriiftratian. At 6 bfcioek in the evening, theJrench gentlemen readied tottheir )boats y md, aboajt eight, they ivereagaia'anboard'their frigates. Incircuoi- (lancesfo advantageous, they -w^re encouraged LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE fooverhawl their rigging, and to make the mod thorough repairs upon every thing about their ihips, that wanted reparation. To pievent any inconvenience from the tardinefs oflfche merchants who had undertaken to furnifti them with flour, bifcuit, and other (lores.; M. Ganfoles •Carmagnal, Intendant ef the Philippines, obligingly infpected the progrefs of the workmen, *nd haftened every thing as if he himfelf had been perfonally concerned in the fuecef s of the Expedition of the French voyagers. .Jtfor did the kinidnefs of this gentleman reft here: Hp •made the French Naturalifts accept.a multitude «of valuable fpecimtns dFtom his rich colIec^iOnf of the curiofitiesof the Philippines. He afiided Aem in procuring money for bills of exchange to the amount of i©,coe piaftres, which M. El- dlockendrom had, by £his time, authorized them -to draw uponten on account ©f^their otter-fl^ins -which ha<} been left for Iale <umder 4»s charge. -This money was now *ft&rrbuted among the fai- 3©rs, as had been formerly promifed to them. The climate of Manilla proved lefs hofpitable to •our voyagers than were its inhabitants. Thei exceflive heats proved unfavourable to the health of the .fhips companies, in general. Several of the failors were attacked with cholics. Meffrs. de Lamanon and Daifcremont, who weraill wffl% xlyfenteries when they arrived in the port of Ca Wite, became continually worfe while on la there. - M.'Daigremont died on the 25 th day | after his arrival. M. Lamanon, with difficulty^ efcaped. On the 28th of March, the French voyagers had finiifhed every labour that they intended to execute at Cavite. The faking ci their pnmfionj they had performed themfefcesr •>. ROU&D THE WORLD, *2"5 upon theiiplanof prcfsdure^reeommended by Commodore Cook. While they were preparing to depart, they were informed of the arrival ia Canton I&ver, of-two French fhips of war ; La Rfiliation, under the command of M. d'Entre— j eailcaux ; and La Subtile, commanded by M. la j Croix de Gadries. Thefe gentlemen were upoiv ! a voyage, of which the aftronomical obfervations- i muft hereafter prove highly beneficial to the j navigation of thefe feas. The frigate La Subtile Coon after joined our navigators in the bay of I Jllanilla, and brought difpatches to M. de la Pey- \ toufe. But no private letters were as yet received from France. From on board La Subtile, a | Ibpply of an officer and four men to each of the Irrigates belonging to this expedition, was re-- oeived, for the purpofe of making up the lofs* ihey hjs(d fuffered at Port de Francois^ M. de Saint Ceran being in a very declining date of health, took the opportunity of departing in la Subtile for the Ifle of France^After our voyagers were in almoft all refpects ready to fail, ther coming on of Paf&on-week occafioned delays in particular articles,, by which they were obliged to defer their departure to Eafter-Monday. During the flay at Cavite, M. Dagelet, the aftrono- mer, had'enjoyed great advantages for his aftronomical obfervations ; and he failed not to avail himfelf 06 them. He was enabled to determine the E. Longitude of Cavite- to be iii,.i 18 deg. 50 min. 40 fee. and its N. Lat. in 14 deg. 29 min. 9 fee. Before their departure, M.t de la Peyroufe, with M. de Langle, went to thank the governor-general for the attention he had fhewn to the expediting of their affairs. They waited -fdfe on ttte intendant; to whom their acknowl^- tz4 LA PEYROGSE'SfVOYAGE edgemcnts were riot lefs due. After fhh,ihtf were hofpitably entertained, for two days longer, at the hoiife of M. Sebir, from which they tookoccafioMto vifit whatever was mod remark-* able in the environs of the town of Manilla. The following are the principal obfervatictis which the French navigators had opportunity to make on the flate of Cavite and Manilla, during their flay in thefe parts. Cavite is fituate three leagues 3. W. from Manilla. It was formerivv more confiderable and flourifhing than at pre*l fent. Its principal inhabitants now- -are, th$ commandant of the arfenal, a eontador, a com- i mandant of the town, two lieutenants of theH port, 150 foldiers with their officers in garrifefil7 The reft oi the townfraen are mulattoes ©r Jni dians, to the number of about 400©, who live partly in the city, and partly in the fu%urb of St. ICoch. Here are three converts, each g©J| cupied by only two ecclefia flics. The pari ffes are two in number. An handfome heufe, which belonged formerly to the jefuits, is now appro-; priated to the ufe of the Royal Commercial Comv pany. The whole town, in truth, has more the air of an heap of ruins, than of the capital of a province.'! The port, however, infpected by M.' Bermudes, is in a much better d.Tie. He has'efc tablifhed admirable difcipline and order in thofe works which are carried on in it.^The work- houfes are the fame as in the arfenals of Europe ; the workmen are Indians. The City of Ma** niila, with its fuburbs and immediate inviron^ is of great extent. Of 38,000 perfons, tkjf£ whole number of its inhabitans, not more than 1000 or 1200, are Spaniards. Mulattoes, Chi* nefe, and Indians make up the reft. liken the ROUND THE WORLB; I*L$X pooreft of the Spanifh families, keeps at lead one carriage. A beautiful river flowing by Manilla, divides itfelf, in its progrefs, into feveral <Jiff<ajr£nt eh^ji^els, of which the two principal fall Into the famous lake ofBahia.. That lake dies at the diftance of 7 leagues backward into the interior country, amidft an eminently fertile- territory, and is bordered by more than 100 ^jgdian villages. y^SEaniila Hands on the very ifeqre of the Bay wliieh bears its name. This Bay is more tl^tn 25 leagues in circumference* The ripr, which paffes by Manilla t© pour its waters into this bay, is navigable as far upwards as to the lake* of Bahia*- The markets of this city afford all the neceffaries of life in the great- eft abundance ; but, on account of the reftraints upon the freedom of^rade, the.prices of all goods of European manufacture are here enormoufly high. Of the Philippine Ifles, in general, it mud be owned, that the Spaniards do notappear duL^n to underftand and cultivate their importance. Thefe Ifles are peopled by no fewer than 3,oo©,ooo of inhabitants, of which Luconia alone contains-about one-third part. Neither in their bpdily nor mental powers, do the natives appear to yield at all to our Europeans. They •t£ra£tice both the agricultural and the mechanic arts, "frith abundant dexterity and fkiil. The Spaniards, indeed, fpeak of them with eontempt. But their vices feem rather to bf produced by the government under which they are enflaVed, than to be the refults of their native character,. The hopes of gold were the firft motives which induce^the Jkianiards to.occupy tj^e Philippine Iflands. Thefe, however, have been but very poorly gratified," Superftition next fought -it*'* n6 LA PEYRWSE S VOYAGE Iiarvefts, in the converfion of the native inhabitants ©f thefe Ifles to the Catholic reiigion£>C©n- fiderable fuccefs attended its endeavours, an«Mn£* extravagantly fevere penitentiary difeipline, was, in confequence, eftabtidied among tibe converts- The catholic penitents of Manilla might often vie with the Indian Faquirs, in the feverity of the difeipline to which ifhey voluntarily fubmit. The foontaneous abundant of nature encoura-1 ges thefe people to indulge in an indolence, which they connect with their piety, by flocking in great numbers to lt$guifh out life in monaftiie^ retreats. The government adopts no wife nor generous meafures, to kindle up among its fub- jects the fpirit of active exertion. Sugar has I been occasionally fold here forlefsthan an half-penny a pound ; and rice has beeaiuffered to rot un- reaped upon thegrou&d. Severe eccfefiaftieal t^Ml tanny here cramps and depreffes the human powers. Yet the peasants wear afn air of hap*: pineft, which is rarely to be feen in the hamlets or villages of Europe. Their houfes are fhaded by fruit-trees, which grow without culture ; and they appear remarkably neat; The head of every family pays a very moilerate tax, of only I five reals and an half, in which is included tb&l tax to the ekurch, as well as tlfafc to the king. The bifhops,cancrjPS, and priefts, enjoy but mod*-, ©rate ftipendsf whfch are paioVto them from thet government. No people in the world are more paffionately fond ©f tobacco than the inhabitants of thefe ifleS. Even children begin in tfefy infancy to ufe it. Scarcely a man or woman is to be Ceefil at any mc#«ot throughout the whole day without a fegar in the mouth. The Ifhmd of Luconia affords the bed tobacco in all Afia* Etery pea*- ROUND tHE WO&CDi 127 fant cultivates tiie plant around his ownl&ufei 11 is exportecfchence- into e#e*y part of I ndia, by thofe foreign veffels which fitfve pettttifion to land in Manilla. But the avarice and inhumanity wthe government have lately impofed a tax, arid prohibitory redactions, which threaten to blail all the'#trte happenefs that the people of thefe ifles have eOfrt|*iued, fill thi^tir^ej.to enjoy. Cotton, indigo, fogar canes, grow here* jfpontio^sdu^yi m groat ab^dance^c^tfti^^ffro- per care and cultiVati©*^ thefpices of the Philip- pine Ifles would probably not yield to thofe of the Moluccas. A fttw company for we commerce of thefe k&es, has been latef^ere&ed by th^Spafifrifh government. The great ©meet of Spain, in re- fpe£l to tiletrade^tiftween Manilla-^hd the ports ©f the Indian con&nentf^^l*procure t&reugh; thi^ijfeannel, for the ufe particularly of her A- *n£#icfcn colonies, and even of the pa*e##©ouni try,$£»ofe articles of-uf©1 Or lutfify, wh&h are the tnoper produce and A'anufacturMof India afid China. F©i^is end, thefe1 is a fail held at Manila, whic&#st>pen M the Iriltian nations on- ly^ftlfTo rMs fair,$ltejgo©ds -'for fale are indeetf brought mider^fid^an names ; but they are always EngBfh property* and are fold ©&accouiJ§< of yE'#fl&&* me¥<3i2nts. Some S^Stmfh fettle meiits fubfift precaridufly, ahd in no very flour*. idHfcg'ftate, on^hefc iflands which lie foutfiward frcwivLueonia. The ifles of Mindanao, Panay, and $Bridoor©, are inhabited -by Malays, whole f>i¥attetd depredat*ons are extremely troubleforrie the Spaniards and their Indian fubjectsv to They take many ca^JtiV^Htrtheir piracies, which are frequently purchafed from them for flaves, by the very eommanders of the Spamlh mifitia t£% LA'f»£T?«©USE:S<VOYAGE" jfiP »?• whjj§h hasbeen fastened to cppofe their defcentsU. At Samboangan, in the ifland of Mindanao, is a Spanifh garrifbn of 150 'men, whofe commander is alfo governor, of the ifle. The other ifles have only a few villages, .protected by petty batteries, and by a militia under the command oft^e AL cades.|s|:Nature appears in its moft enchanting; beautyijn the {neighbourhood of the. city .of Manilla. A fimple Indy^tnyillageKor a houfe.in the Eurppeafl^-ftyle^ furroundedfjby a few trees, will' there prefent a view more intereftingiy^i^lur* efque than the moft magnificent palaces of Europe. Very little artificial embellifUment has been attempted in thefe fcenes. A fpacjous houfs on the waters edge, with conveniens) baths, and fHaded only, by a few fruit-tiee#jis thfe| moft: fumptucus habitation that even opulence here requires* The Spaniards are univerfally ac<- cuftomed, immediately after the Lafter holidays, to retire from-5^j^|own, to fpend the,hot part of the feafon at their country-hou^|. A fingle Mexican regimen^ of Infantry, confiding. 1300 effective men, compofe the whole garrifc#j ©f Manilla in the time of peace. The fojtifica- tion&have been lately ftrengthened and enlarged, under the direction of M. Sauz, a VEplj able engineer.. Here are, be fide the garrifac, two companies of arjglery, confining of 16© men, with officers ; 150 dragoons; and a battalion ©f 1200 militia,. who are all Chinefe of half blood. Such was the principal information which the French navigators obtained at Cavite and Ma- nilla.iS ROHtfD THE WOifeLDi 129 chap, viir: Narrative ofi- the Voyage continued firom the pth fjtff Augitfl, 1787. ' Cqurfe to explore the North Eaft Coaft of Chirtq^ and Chinefe Tartary ; Qifcoveryin 'the Sea of Japan, in the Channel of Tartary, on the Tjm* 'tarean Coafif^Xsfc. Cifir. HEN the French voyagers were juft about to fail from the port of Cavite, they received a farewellTifit from their friend M. Bermudes, |s$io affured|j£hem that the North Eaft Monfoon would not yet for a month, make that change whij^b warnoegffary to render their failing prosperous, in their deftined courfe. |&But they were impatient to proceed, and flattered themfelves widjftjae hope of a lucky exce^tiun fo* this year^ fuch as might duly favour their wifhes. On t|fitf otbof April, they failed with a fine breeze at N* E. Small variations of the tfinds allowed tfremi to get fpeedily to the northward of {the ifland of Luconia : but they had hardly failed round Cape Bujador, when the wind fleadily fettled at N. E. On the 2 id of Apri^they reached the ifland of Formofa. | In the channel between that ifle an4 Luconia, tliey met with fome very violent eut- brents, occafioned-^probably by irregular tides, pfibey were, on trie 22d of April,-about three leagues distant, Eaft by Soutfe from Lamay Ifland, which is at the South-We ft point of For- jnofa. The fea here rolled in very high billows: Our voyagers were led to think, that they might proceed more eafily northward, if they might reproach nearer to the Chinefe coaft :. Under iheN. N, E. winds, they fleeted to the North fe. LA PEYROUSE% VOYAGE We*t. In the middle of the dhannel, in 22 deg- 57 min. North Latitude, and in n6 deg. 41 min. Eaft Longitude, they found, upon founding, a fandy bottom, under 25 fathoms depth of water : In four minutes, the depth of the waterwas diminifhed to 19 fathoms: A (horn time after, the line indicated only i-2 fathoms* j They were at this time more tftan 30 leagues diftant from the Chinefe coaft. Y*ry properly judging, therefore, that this fhallownefs of the j water indicated the prefenee of a fand-bank not yet laid down in any of the charts ; they turn- 1 ed their courfe again toward the iffend of For- moft. Finding the irregularities of the bottom flill to continue, they cad anchor,; and" baked I till the morning. In the morning, no breakers were feen around them ; and they renewed J their courfe toward the continent of China;. They were again in a fhort time alarmed by a ftaUownefs of the Water, and inequality of the bottom, fimilar to thofe which they had before ©bferved. To get beyond the fphere of this danger, they turned their courfe to the oppofite point of the compafs. South Eaft by Eaft. Af§ ter running in this manner fix leagues over an- unequal bottom of rock and fand, in a depth| ©f water; varying from eleven to twenty four-t fathoms, they at-length fbund their foundings-j begin to indicate gradually deeper and deeper water-till at lad, about ten o'clock in the evening, at the diftance of about twelve leagues" from the point from which they reverted their-: courfe, they could find no bottom.1 The bank,; of which they thus afcertain ed the exiftence^, basils South Eaft extetmity in 2-2 deg. 52 min.. •ROUND ftlE WORLD. u* North Latitude, and hi 1-17 deg. 3 min. Ead L ongitude. They were now carried towards the entrance m the.. B,ay of Old Fort Zealand, on which Hands, the city of Taywan, the capital of the ifle. The Chinefe colony of Formosa was, at this pme, in a ilate of revolt; and an army of twen- [ty thoufand men had been fent, under the com- mand of the Santoq of Canton, to reduce them to thgir duty. Deiirous to learn news of this •war, La Peytoufe carae to an anchor a little jwedward from that bay, in water ©f the depth of feventeen fathoms. But, it afterwards oc- curred;to his reflection, that there might be danger in fending boats on fhore, while the ihips were at fuch a didance out at fea; and that, to a very confiderable diftance from the iftiore, the channel Of the bay was, according to the old accouts of the Dutch, too fhallow to \he fafely acceftible to the frigates. He-attempted, therefore, only t© accod fome of the Chinefe fi thing-boats which were frequent around •him, and to obtain from them the information which he wanted. With difficulty, he prevajjj- •ed with one man to oo^ae on board ; who fold them fome fifties at Lis own price, but could [not, for the want of figns or fpeech mutually intelligible, communicate any news to fatisfy their coriofity. Fifes, >vhich might be fignals of alarm* were feenon<|he fhore. , But, it feemed Improbable that the Chinefe and the rebel armied were at this time, upon fome diflerent^art of the coad. Sailing, on the next day, ten leagues •northward, our navigators came within fight of thefe armies, at the mouth of a great river, in 23 tteg. 25 rmm .N. Lat. Oppofite to the mouth «jf dLA'feYROU&'s V0YiM3E 4£p&~i&cr, if6|i3irrty feven fathoms of water, over a muddy ground, the frigates cad an- 4&or. At the fame place-lay the Chinefe fleet, confiding of a great multitude of veffels. *?&©-> fore day, ourvoyagers wer$*ebliged, by the bad- ne-fe «f the weather, to weigh anchor, without having gained that knowledge which they ardently defired, concerning the defigns and movements of the warlike force3>ef ore them. Standing from the fhore, with topfails andccourfes clofth refiedM. de la Peyroufe hoped, that he might double the «Pescadore Isles, by keeping the fhip's head to the N. W. before a N. N. I»: wind. •j£*To:his aftonifliment, at nine o'clock in the morning, feveral rocks, making a part of that group of ifles, were feen before them, in the bearing of N..N. W. The billows roiled fe high and fo tempeftuous, that the breakers from thefe rocks were not to be diftinguifhed frem them. They sow tacked zndftood towards Foi> raofa.-'j5n this continuation of their courfe, they found the channel, between Formofa and the ifles$J.E. of $>e Pefcadores, not to exceed four leagues ;n breadth. Perceiving it, at iengtir1 to be impoffible, that they fhould fucceed in accomw fMifhlrig | their courfe through this chan ne4* he- IbreX ther change of. the monfoOn; they were induced todire£l theirprogrefs towards the mod fouthern of the Pefcadores, bearing W.;$. *W. With the purpefe of paffing to the Eaftward of Formofa.*pTheJ failed along, parallel to the Pefcadores, at two leagues of diftance from, them. ' 1 Thefe ifles extend' fouthward, at lead as far as *3 deg. 25 min. ^Fhey are merely an affem- fcfegg-'of tedksiu alrnOj£ every pef&ble djverrjity :afivm» *BS'W(sao# '33 jof fhapes. Five of them a#e ©£i»o4erate elev&- •jti©i%like fandy downs,' but ifcithout t$ees. f§Cfcne ^exhibits at*perfc£tarefemblancet© the tower of -Qbr^ouan, :a^the mouth of Jjil rive#f3ourdeat»jc, as if it-had been, .hewn out *#thj hands. The ^Dutth, when mafters ef Fosmofa, > fortified. jjfc^ port of PoiNGHaUjjone ofthifeflfles: TbenChi- rjiefe, at-prefent, maintain in it a|garrifon of five or fix hundred Tartars. ^oundisg feveral times ^iwherethe water was coti€derably fmooth, under the fhelter of£hefe:ifles$:they>$aund a fandy bottom, with remarkahle^nequailries of &&ph. . t&oon^jter, they^/dte^edntheiti courfe E.S. :E. of purpofe to •. pafsflfinto the; channel between [Fofmofa and?theiBiSHefc;*ISLANDS. Next day, jthey experienced a vielenthut fcra^jfient blaft of 'windi0Rains, fuchas,areto be equalled only rbetween the tropics, accompanied the winds. Lightnings, with-inceftant:rfiafhes, v£fom every point ofthehorizon,-inflamed the fkies, throughout i*he night; 0n& loud burding clap of thun- fder was,alone^l&ard. .The wind was at N.jW. d uring tlrtS; whole tnght: ; The clouds flew to* wards she fourh*weft : A fog, whjsh; hovered low over their heads, followed the impiijfe ofethe 40wer currents of air, alone. It feemed as if Tome (Crifis-of nature were* threatened ; and our navigators were, therefore, induced to fteer to a < diftance feomihejffiiore. Diuring:Ae next day, Jthey weriE?jdetaifted in a deadealm^aa the middle of *he channel between the ...Bafliee Iflands, and thofe of Botcl^ T«baco»x3[ma, Of this channel, the wedth may be fixteert leagues. :Ettabftedbyi^heiWihiIstQ approach $ie |flevofiBotol Tobaco-xkna, they could dt&ifl$> **1y pefcfeive&rse wllages> on. its vfouthern coaft* *Jf4 LA PEYR^tlSE'S^rOYAGE Br ■t ■tfT: A canoe feemed to bend its courfe towards them, from the fhore. The S. E. point of the ifle is in 21 deg. 57 min. N. Lat. in 119 deg. 32 min. E. Long, jime only bay in the ifland, bm ing open to the S. E. winds, which our voyagers had now the moft to fear: thejr were hence deterred from mtttHg any attempt to land. No bottom was to be found by the foundhigs of the frigates, even at their neareft approach to Botol Tobaco-xima. The ifle may be about four leagues in circumference^ilt is feparated by a channel of half 2l league j from an uninhabitable Tocky iflet, the furfece of winch difplays fome fhrubs, with a little graffy verdure. From the fea-fhore, for two-thim^hioi its elevation, Botol Tabaco-xima, prefents a territory clear of wood ; in many places cultivated ; furrowed, here and there, with the channels of torrents which are occasionally precipitated from the mountains. The fuperior one-third of the elevation of the I ifle, is covered to the very fummit, with trees on the largeft fize. Three confiderable villages]! feen by the French navigators, within the fpace 1 of a league, feem to befpeak this ifle to be not fcantily peopled. In clear weather, Botol To-J baco-xima may probably be feen at 15 leagued! diftance; but it is, often furrounded by fogs which muft conceal it from the mariner's view. Our voyagers after palling this ifle, had to continue their courfe amid an archipelago of Iflands, which was hitherto known to tht geographers of Europe, only from a letter of the mifiionary father Gaubil. In that letter, he f peaks with but little accuracy concerning the Mngdom of Liqueo, and its ijjk-and-thirty Iflands, from the information of the King of Li- ■fltOUtf D THE WORLD. m qileo's ambaffador at Pekin.' Every degree of vigilance and caution was, therefore, to be exerted, in advancing throUgh this track. On the 5th of May, at 1 o*cl©ck in the moriing, they came withnrgfigbt of an ifland bearing from them N. N. E. They failed along its weftern coaft, at half a league's diftance from the fhore, No bottom could be found by their foundings here. Fires, in feveral places, and herds of oxen grazing on the fear fhore, foon evinced to them that this ifle was inhabited. Canoes came to vifit them from thtfvfhore. But, after the cu- riofity of the peffbns in thofe canoes had brought them within mufket-fhot Of the frigates, their difeuft inside them flee away with great celerity. The fhow of prefents, with friendly fhouts, and geftures, at length won two other canoes to come alongfidje the frigates. To the perfons in thefe, prefents of a piece of nankeen, and fome medals, were offered ; which were received with cxpreflSons of gratitude; When about to come on board the French veffels, they, with folemn gefture, placed their hands on their breafts, and then raifed their arms towards the fky ; and the repetition of thefe geftures by the French, feemed to infpire them with new confidence. Still, however j. they could not diveft 0iemfelves of a diffidence which was flrongly exprefled in their countenances. They are not, by nation, either Chinefe or Japanefe. In their afpecT, they feem to partake of the exterior character of both thefe two different races of people. Their canoes were hollowed trunks of trees ;• and they did not row them with the dexterity of a people accaftomed to live chiefly at fea. Each wore a dagger with a golden handle. They kA PEY<RWSSf$ VOYAXTS wore their hafetfecked upland? fadened on the ©rows* of the head with a golden pis. Their clothes were a fliirt and a pair of cotton draW- <S5^#Th<Si ifle is net iroflfe than three^or four leagues ia^cjfscumterence ; norgis /it probable that the whofe number - of the inhalants ex - ceed fofcrortjhne hundred. ^!KuM*i¥dieancienil name of th£i#e. 4ts: pofition is iij?24 deg. 2-£; min. N. Lat. in 120 deg. 50 min. E. Long. On the chatft of Fa&br GaubiL/Ihe Kcmi Ifles are 3 group of eight; and of thefe, it is the moft weftern whieftp the French navigators now faw -rabat their fhips. The othfer feven ifles to the eaft-^ ward, were removed beyond the fpkere of their horizon. From what Gaubil fays of the great ifland of Liqueo, it feems probable that Europeans might there find a favourable reception jjg; £&& that they might open a commercial kitercourfe With its inhabitants, not lefs advantageous thait that with Japan. The Indies of Kumi, reconciled to the Uteeneh by their prefents, and theit gentle demeano'rV had returned on fhore, t© bring them frefh pro-f vifions. But, a fair wind arifing, encouraged our navigators to continue their courfe, without awaiting thefe good people's renewed vifiu 1 hey proceeded northward with all their fails ^i: and, at funfet, had entirely lod fight of the? ifles of Kumi. At day-break, on the following; morning, they came, firft, within light of ad- ifland to the N. N. E. and then of feWral rocky iflets farther to the eaft. - The ifle is round, woody, deep on all fides, and mod probably uninhabited, k may be about two leagues in cuf* eitfmfererioe. Another ifle, of equal fize, fimi- lar form, a fuwaee ali&e wooded, but of inferior ROUND THE WORLD. m elevation, appeared, foon after; in view. Between thefe ifles were feen five interjacent groups of rocks, with numberiefs fea-fowls flying around. To the former of thefe ifles, M* de la Peyroufe gave the name of Txaoyu-su ; to the latter,.thatof Hoapinsu ;. both adopted from the chart of Father Gaubil, TiaouyuTu lies in "2$ deg. 5;5 min.-in. 121-deg* 17 min~ Hoapinfu in 25 deg..44 min. $£ Lat. in 121 deg.. 14 min. jp. Long. At fength, our Voyagers had left behind them the archipelago of-the ifles of Liqueo; and entered the more fpacious fea between China and JapanJ§! They were anxioufly^ defirous to enter the channel of Japan, before the 20th of May. But, thick and, eQfcftant fogs; winds, if not ad- verfe, yet blowing always fainfly, and fubfiding often into a dead calm ;; violent currents-.;, and tidesSanceffantly varying in their direction ; rendered their courfe along the north coad of China, fo very difficult, that, without relinquifhing their fprevious arrangements in refpe£l to tinle^ they could not make tfcat minute nautical furvey of thefe partsr whieh^fcthe intereds of navigation, is very earnedfylo be defired. In the courfe of 10 Or 12 days failing, only one day was clear. On it, they faw?an iflet fituate in 30 deg. 45, min. N. Lat. in 121 deg. 26 min. E. Long. But fogs quickly obfcured the fky anew ; and they could not afcertain any thing concerning the pofition of this ifle in relation to the continent. On the i^tjt of May, after a fortn%ht of calms and fegs, the horizon expanded around them for feveral ]eag#eS(jc the,;tyf8$i ifettling in the N". W. began to blow with confiderable force ; but the &y continued to prefent dill a dull, whitifh af- pe&. The French navigators now dJqrf&eo/: M2 Ee LA P^RWSt I VOYAGE. their courfe N* &. by IU; towards ^|^aft&**ll Qtosepaery. O&Ae 21ft, this ifle appeared, within their view. A fair day enahled them toi determine, from hftlafcobfeftfaftion, that its pofition is in 33 deg. 14 min* *N. Lat. in i%$ degil 15 min. E. I|i0ng>||4ts afpe£¥4s exceedingly i&M terefting: in the middle of this ifle, towers up J to the elevation of "about lOfefo toifes, a peak. xsSiich is viable #t fthe diftance of <*8 or 20 leagttes : ^rbfi* the decks, "with the aid of their perfpeclive l^afles, o^r ^ojage'rs coiild difeOrn thefieWs&o be ^even ' mmutet^fubdivided by hickrfures : the^uStti&tffe-drops, and the vary*] ing colours of cultivation, likewife met and delighted the.eyfe^ On tht<|f*fife, at fhfefctime under the dominionof ^e ^Miing of •'€aO»ea, was wrecked5,ist the yeJ&hiD^, a^Dutch ffcip, nam-| ed the Sparrow-hawM. Its crew ejfeaped the rage of the bil lows,' only to be doomed -to perpetual fervitude among the inhuman people, on svhofe^hore they wereCad. Alter a captivity of i'8 years, durMg which ';they had buffered -much cruel treatment, fome "of thefe [tflifortu- nate e^ti^es, •€ont^i^:to<!Bi;2?e a bark, efeaped tmit 2© Japan, from which they made their way^: fed:to Batavia; and^afte^wards to Amfterdam. SHvo canoeswere :feen>tO come off from this hie. felt they were probably fent, r-afcher to watchj than to hail the French frigates : for they came not up to >them. ^Our voya^ets ftill—advan5geS..' $h$y -puffed! eaftward from the^N. |L pom^of the dftand of Qoelpaert. ■ Eve#-koutrthey founded; and^the depth continued tO>va#y fr$m« <To to-yd fathorokl In N. Lat. 35 deg. re min. 'E. Long. 12^ deg* tariain.-theyMliti^iththtfmoftnorthern #iri£ ROUND THE WORLD. ;chain of rocks, more than ^leagues didant from* jthe^ntinent of Corea* Their bearing- is nearly N. E. andS.W. On the day following, Corea- appeared within view; arrange of rocks or iflets,^ [cunning along before it. Two leagues fouth, prom thefe iflets, the depth of the foundings was pom 30 to 35 fathoms, with a muddy bottom. Sle fun, piercing through the fogs, enabled Hiem, happily, to take excellent obfervations of die latitude and longitude:; obfervations of fo much the greater importance, becaufe the Jesuits, during their profperity, as miffionaries in the Chinefe empire, were the only perfons that: pad, as.yet, made anyrcommunications-concern- pig the geography or hydrography of thefe parts^* to the inhabitants of Europe. .lit the night of the 25 th, the French navigators pafled the Sfreight of Corea. The night was clear; the ~ winds blew with confiderable$rifksefs from the r $•. W. and a great fwelling of the fea came from.* the north, ^hey failed on- eafily before then, wind, at the rate of two knots anhour ; wifhing,; to afcertain, after day-break, the accuracy of thofe obfervations which they had-made during; the evening-, that-they might give every requi- fite degree of corredtnefs to their chart ofi^he Straight. They founded every half hour. Hav- ing approached within z leagues of th%,coad of Corea,they then held on their courfe, in a direction parallel to it. Corea is divided Tronic Japan by a channel 15 leagues- broad; butnar- rowed, for a part of its -extent, ;by groupesand reefs of rocks. On $ie tog&of the mountains bM^orea, were feen fortrefles perfe&ly frmilar ft thofe ©f Europe. The adjacent country is barren samihilly; and unmelted heaps of insw £4° LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE fc;. wesr perceived in certain pits, and gullies among; the angular junctions of the hills* Yet,thei dwellings are numerous* . Frequent junks or Jhampans, with matted fail% like thofe of China, were obferved failing on the coaft.->n Some boats I came oui,.apparently for the purpole ofexamin-j ing the appearance and the- movements of the French frigates ; but returned into port, with-l out having come fuflfciently near, to hold any converfe with them* The 26th proved one of the fined days which our navigators experienced! in their whole voyage ; yet the mercury in thei barometer fubfided to 27 inches and 10 line$ At midnight, the wind altered, from S. to N. It] blew, immediately after the change, with considerable violence; the fky became black, and.dark ;| and it became neceffary for the frigates to-alter their courfe to a farther didance from thefhore, than that at which they had for fome time failed. The only foreboding indication which nature had given of this change, confided in torrid vapours, fuch as might have idued from the mouth of an/ oven, which were felt by the men at the mad-l head, pafnng, as it were, in fo many puffe of wind, each fucceeding another,.after, an interval of half a minute. On the 27th, the frigfttes ap«* proached to within 3 leagues of the continent and in fpite of the "violence of th& north wind,! they were able to gain a little to the northward y while the coad of Corea was feen to bend away before them, to the N. N. W.. ;.M. de la-Peyroufe now judged it neceffary to direct his courfe towards the S. W> point of the ifle Of NiPHOif* The exacl: pofition of Cape Nabo, the N. WJ point of this ifle, had been before ascertained by Captain King, An equally fatisfa£lory .fixing- o£ the fituation of its oppofite extremity, weald put mo&&D THE VtGSShV, an end to the uncertainties and conje£fcures of/ geographers concerning the form of thefe cnaftfc*. ©h the 28th our navigators difcovered., in 37* deg. 2^^mimN..Lat. in 12$. deg. 2 min. E. Long, the north-eaft point of an ifle, which received, in honour of the aftron©mer by whom it wa«< [fird perceived,, the name of Isle Bageletv. They failed round it, at a mile's didance from- the fhore ; and founded, as they failed* without finding a bottom. A boat was then fent, un-< der the command of"M, Boutin, to carry the foundings to the very beach. Nearly at the ledge of a furf which breaks on the coaft, at the diftance of an hundred toifesfrom the ifland, he found bottom under twenty fathoms depth of water. -jThe; ifland is about three leagues in circumference Jf A rampart of bare rocks, tiling aver the billows, with an abrupt and precipitous elevation, encircles its whole out-line, except only feven fmall fandy creeks, which are accedibie to boats. From the vet*y brink of the iiore to its extreme height, it is^overgrown witfo tall ftately trees, fitted to furmfii the mod excellent timber.^In the creeks, our navigators faw fome boats of Chinefe conftrudHgn on the. Socks. Theyiuppofed, that the workmen might probably have fled into the wo©ds, at their ap-. proach. Other workmen were feen by them, upon turning round upon a point, to flee into the woods from a fecond dock-yard. Had not the opposition of ftrong currents prevented, M. de la Peyroufe would gladly have gone on fhore, t© explore the ifle, and to convince thofe good people that they had nothing to fear from the French. - Onthejothof May, favoured by the wind* LA PEYROUSE'&sHdYAGR now fixed at S. S. E. M. de la Peyroufe endeavoured to approach the coaft of Japan^ But, the contrariety of the winds rendered the attempt fo difficult, that nothing but its extreme importance could have hindered himfffOiri abandoning it almoft immediately. On the 2d of June, in. 37 deg. 38 min. N. Lat. in; 132 deg. 'io;roin. E^ Long, two Japanefe veffels paffed within fight of them ; one of thefe, fo near, that they could' diftincTly mark the appearances of things oh'her1 deckp. Her crew, confifting of twenty men, wore blue garments made inthefafhion of caf- focks.: She might be of about an-hundred tons burthen: She had a fingle mail, which feemed to be formed of a number of fmaller mad-trees*, united by means of copper hoops and wool- dings : Her fail was linen, with its breadths not fewed, but laced together; very large ; and ac-* companied with two jibs and a fprjifail: A fmall gallery, three feet broad, projected from each fide of the veffel ; and extended for about two-thirds of her length from the ftern, alorigh the gunwale. She had, on her ftern projeclingj beams, which were painted green : The boat! placed athwart her bows exceeded, by feven dfl eight feet] the breadth of the veffel. It is. probable, that fuch veffels as thefe are intended only for failing on the coafts, and in the faired feafon of the year; and that the Japanefe have ^ftoutcr veffels for braving the wintry dorms, in more diftant feas. Senear did the'French navigators pafs to this veffel, that they could remark tfreexprefiion in the countenances of the perfons on her decks : It indicated neither fear noradon- ifhment.|pThe Frenchmen hailed her, as fee pilled; and the Japanefe failed not to make an* &OUND THE WORLD. ■H$ Twer. But, their languages were reciprocally .unknown ;-. fo that mutual converfe was impof- [fible between them. The Japanefe veffel had a [fmall.'. white 'flag, on which were fome words written vertically.. - Its name was on a fort of drum which flood befide the enfign-ftaff. On the morning of the 4th of June, in 133 [deg. 17 min. E. Long, in 37 deg. 13 mini N* Lat. the French'voyagers imagined, with fome [uncertainty, that they fawland: But the weath- jer was dark and ftormy : Their horizon was ;ontra£led within a quarter of a league ; and [the winds blew with a violence which madea£ impoffible for them to halt, till they might afcertain. whether it were indeed land that they had feen. In the courfe of this day, no fewer than feven Chinefe veffels, mailed like the Ja- aanefe bark above defcribed, but of a ftruc"tur3 getter adapted to ftruggle with ftormy feas, paffed within fight of the French frigates.lp They pad, every one, three black bands nin the con- bve part of the fail ; were e&ch of about thirty br forty tons burthen ; and had crews of eight inen, each. They ran clofe fo the wind, with \heir larboard tacks on board, and their heads to \h* W.S. W. On the 6th of* June, our ihavigators arrived krithin fight of Cape Not© and the ifland of iocktsi-sima, which are parted by a channel tbout five leagues in widenefs. They were fix eagues from land: but, the clearnefs of the (veather enabled them to diftinguifh the trees, ivers, and hollows upon it. Rocky iflets, breading with many irregularities, frorh the very vater's edge to the courfe of the frigates, hinder- fd thefe from afjproaohing nearer to the fhow§ LA.#EYR©U3E'S :fqy;age ^Uteir -^fonndiTEgs here indicated, u»8er $xfj fathoms of water, 3a .bottomoffrock and coral. ilhey ran akmg the coaft of Jo©tfi*&na ; and lyjd ftill the feme foundings*5jtThis ifle^Jias 'an agreeable afpecT, is well'wooded, is narrow in its circumference, and of aflat furface. Ordinary -dwelling houfes : fonie more cosfederable ^edifices; a caftlc looking ftm£bure ; and fome .polls with crofs-beams at the upper extremityM -»ttra£led our voyager's notice from the ifle, as ^bey failed along. Fogs again furrounded them, ] iasthey left Joot&frma. But, they hadihsippillj afcertained, wkh accuracy, fome remarkable, -hearings, the knowledge of which muft be of the ;|preated ufe to Geography, and efpe-eially -to all future navigators in thefe feas. Cape Noto, on the coadof Japan, appears, from their obfenra- -iions, to be in 37 deg. 26 min. N. £*at. in 13M •-deg. 34 min. E. Long. Jootfi-fhna, in 37 deg*| 51 min. N. Lat. 135 deg. -2© mm. Long, thef -mod foutherly pointof the ifland of >Niphon, in 37 deg. 18 min. N. Lat. in 135 deg* 5^mn. E. Long. ys| Tlie ©ppofition of drong, unvarying fouth winds, hindered M. de la Peyroufe fromafeer-^ taming, according to his earned defke, the fitu4 fetion of the modaouthern and the mod weftern i points of the ifland of Siphon. "Onder the im*j pulfe -of thefe fame winds, he turned his ^courfe to: rJbeiN. W. and they.attended his progrefs f&i within fight of the coad of :Tartary. On the nth of July, the frigates reached this coaft. Itfextday, in anClear, Terene atmofphere, vthe mercury in the barometer fell to 27 mches,' 7 lines. t^Che pcdnt oftthe coad which ©nr navigators approached,: was exa&Jyc that ^fc^whilfe mm ""i KOXjVD "THE WORLD. I45 Corea is Separated from Mantchou Tartary. Its elevation is fuch, that it was eafily vifible at •the didance of twenty leagues out at fea. Mountains, at lead fix or feven toifes in height, are the hrd objects which here difcover themfelves to the eyes. Within four leagues of the land, bottom was found under an hundred and eighty fathoms depth of water. A league from the fhore, the depth of the water was dill eighty fuur fathoms. No vediges of culture, or of phuman habitation, were to be feen upon this coaft. Trees and verdure covered the fides of ; the mountains': on the fummits appeared fnow |in inconfiderable quantity. Hoping to fiiid more convenient anchoring ground, the French hroyagers Hid not halt here to examine the coad, but held on their courfe ; failing in the ; fined weather, and under the mod ferene \ Ikies they had known, fince their departure from Europe. On the 12 th, the 13th, the 14th, they continued to make their nautical and adronom- \ ical obfervations with die greateft fuccefs. jlfOn the Evening of the 14th, they were becalmed and i involved in a thick fog, in the latitude of 44 ; Aeg. N. Here have.geographers hitherto fixed itheir pretended Streight of Tessoy. But, jour navigators were now 5 deg. of Long, farther wedward than the longitude affigned. r deg. are, therefore, to be here cut off from the continent of Tartary, arid to be added to tho channel between Tartary and the iflands northern from Japan. This abfciffion from the continent, and this expanfion of the channel, will* of courfe, annihilate the Streight of Teffoy. The 15 th and the 18th were obfeufed with fogs. On the Wih, -the fqgs prefented themfelves in the ; mi LA4»£«R0US£'S VOYAGE alhifive forms of mountains, precimtous, vales, torrent-worn channels, and all the appearances of a continent, or ifland; from which they were, ior fome hours, induced to fancy,that they had at lad entered the Streight of Teffoy. But, as evening came on, they faw this fancied land to,^ vanifli away. It was foon entirely difperfed in J air; and not a rack remained behind. On the 17th, 18th, 19th, they were dill furrounded by fogs ; and in this date, could not venture to's proceed, with any degree of celerity. In Nj Xat. 44 deg. 45 min. M. de Monti went, in a boat, from on board the.Aftrolabe, to explore a bay which they faw open hefbre them, and in which they had hopes of finding fhelter. In .that bay he found, at two leagues diftance from land, an hundred and -forty fathoms depth of water. A quarter of a league from the fhore, the depth was forty or fifty fathoms. The frig-1 ates approached the fhore. .But, thick fogs^ made it again neceffary for them tofiandoff, for fear of running into,unfeen dangers. About- 8 o'clock next morning, they difcerned a flat- topped mountain, to -which that ic might be re- cognifed by future navigators in thefe latitudes,; M. de la Peyroufe gave the name of Table- .JVlouNTAiN. The territory adjacent to the] coad, w^§ covered with trees and verdure, indicating tnVgteateft fertility of foil. .But all was j defolate, ftill, and filent. ^Nothing was to be feen, that could befpeak the coaft to have beeni ever occupied by human inhabitants. On the; 23d, our voyagers entered a bay in 45 deg. 13 j Hiin.'N. Lat. 125 deg. 9 min. E. Long, in which ithey found, at a cable's length from the (bore. m ROUKD THE WORLEfc HT I a'fandy bottom, under fix fathoms waten The kide rifes in this bay five feet. It is high water at full and change, at 8 hours, 15 minutes. The-flux and reflux, do not alter the dke&ion . of the current, at the diftance of half a league from the fhore. To the bay, our navigators gave : the name of the Bay de Ternai. Since they left Manilla, they had hot been on- iland. Thefe coafts alone had not been befere' jiHuftrated by the difcoveries of Cooler They were therefore impatient to land,: for the pur- pofes of both difeovery and refreihment. Five* I fmall creeks form the outline of this bay or roadftead. Hills*.overgrown with trees, part' Ltfiofe from one another. All the fhades of live- • ty green variegate the trees and the herbage. Bears and flags were feen from the fhips' to wander quietly along the fea-fhore. Ro—■ fes, red and yellow lillies, all the meadow-flowers of' France, were feen by our* navigatorsafter they landed, to enamel, in rich profufion, the plains^ declivities, and vales. Pines covered the fummits of the mountains : half way down, were oaks, of which the fize and ftrength diminifhed, asthe defcent approached the fea-fhore : willows, birches, maples, bordered the rivers and rivulets. On the fkirts of the forefts, were apple and medlar trees, with clumps of hazles. Traces of the vifits, if not of the permanent habitation, of men, were ev- £ry where to be feeiu Some places- difplayed the remains of ravages by fire. And in a corner of the wood, were obferved fome fheds which muft have been ere£led by hunters* Bafkets, framed of the bark of the birch-tree,, and.rackets for walking on fnow, lay, here and' LA PEYROUSE'S VOYAGE there Scattered about. A fho©ting'-party came,. in three boots, from the two frigates. Three young fawns were the only animals they flew. The long grafs, and the danger from venomous reptiles, which might lurk in it, making it impoffible for them to proceed far inwards through tlie country ; they were in a manner, confined; to the fandy flats on the fea-fhore. Impelled by their paflion for hunting, 1$. de Langle, with fome other officers, and fome of the naturalifts, endeavoured* with little fuccefe, to penetrate through the moraffes and forefts. But the grafs and underwood were ftill inacccflible : Nor would the bears and dags prefent themfelves to- their eager purfuers. In fifhing, thefe voyagerSv were more fuccefsful. Cod-fifhes, harp-fifhes, trouts, falmon, plaice, herrings, were taken with the utmod eafe, and in the greateft abundance- Vegetables, fuch as nature prefented in profusion, on the fhore, being added to thefe; fome very wholefcme and delicious meals were thus' furnifhed out to the drip's companies. Amidd their fifhing, they difcovered, on the bank of a rivulel*, a Tartarian tomb ftanding befjde the ruins of a fmall houfe, which were well nigh buried in the grafs. Curiofity prompted them to open this repofitory. In it, lay the bodies of two perfons, fide by fide. The heads were covered, each with an under cap of taffeta : The bodies were wrapped in bear's fkins, which were faftened round them with a girdle of the fame 3 From the girdle were fufpended feveral different copper trinklets, and fome fmall Chinefe coins : Blue beads were fcattered within the tomb : 'lliere were alfo ten or twelve different forts of filver bracelets, weighing each ten penny-weight: ROUND THE WORLD. H9' And thefe, our voyagers afterwards learned to ! be pendents for the ears. A fmall blue nankeen ; bag, filled with rice, a comb, a wooden fpoon,> an axe, a knife, a hatchet of iron, were -likewifc among the article's with which this tomb was garnifhed. None of all thefe things were, as yet, in a ftate of decompofition. The ftrudlure of the tomb wasa fmall hut, having its walls formed- of the trunks of trees, and covered above, with the bark of the birch-tree. '& Careful not to violate this repofitory of the remains of the decealr : ed, the French ftrangers religioufly reftored every article to its former fituation, after they • had examined it; and then covered up the tomb as it was before. The articles of Chinefe manufacture befpeak thefe Tartars to have a regular ; intercourfe with China.- From the prefence of . the bag of rice in the tomb, it may be inferred that they believe the dead to furvive the clofe ©f the prefent life, and to remain fubjeft in the world of fpirits, to thofe bodily wants which they experienced in their human exiftence. The plants were here the fame as in France, at lead, , without any variation very interefting to botany. Slate, quartz, jafper, violet porphyry, fmall chryftals, amygdaloid, were the mineralogical fpecimens prefented in the beds of the rivers. Iron ore appears here, only as an oxyde, the colouring .matter of different ftones : No other metals, in any form * could be here difcovered. Ravens, turtle-doves, quails, wag-tails, fwallows, fly-catchers, albatroffes, grills, puffins, bitterns, wild-ducks, tvere the land and fea-fowls which the French voyagers obferved on this coaft. Broken mufcle-fhells, bernacles, fnail-fhells, pur- ; pune, were the only fpecimens of conchology N 2 I I JO la pEYRoufSlt^aatoss feen on the beach. jp^eingi^te drib European vifitors of thefe fhores, M. de laPe^roufe and! his companions would not leave the fcene, without depofiting in the earth various medals brought from France for fuch ufes, as well as a bottle inclofing an inf. ription%f the d°.te of their arrival. On the morning of the 2*$fh, they again fet fail; and preceded before a fouth wind, at the j diftance of two-thirds of a league from the coaft, diftinguifhing, as they went along, even the mouth of every fmall rivulet. About it o'clock in the evening of r the 29th the wind * fhifted to the north ; iand they were obliged to make a tack eaftward. They were now in 46 deg. 50 min. N. Lat. The coaft, which they Hill faw thro ugh fogs* was now lower ; and the land was divided into hills of moderate height. On the 1 ft of July, being involved in a thick fog, fo near to land that they could hear the breaking", of the furf upon the fhore ; they were obliged to cad anchor in 30 fathoms depth of water,? cwith^fettorn of broken fhelis-tfnd mud. Fogs continued till the 4th, to hinder their obfervations. %But thttfhud, in'*the mean time, thecon- felation of taking a great quantity of cod«ififi?es* and eyflers, which very -agreeably efiverfified the- provifion of their tables. A great bay, into which a river, fifteen cr twenty fathoms broad, was feen to diferobogue its waters, opened before ourfllxvigators on the morning of the 4th of July. A boat from each frigate wasimmedi^ ately fent to examine it. The territory on the coad was found to be nearly the fame as that at the Bate de Tcrnai. Vediges appeared, which ^elpoke this'fcene tohavebeenreccntlyvi&tedby ROUND t3tE WORLD. £$■ fome wandering hunters. Branches cntfrornthe trees by fome fharp-pointed hidruments^ lay on I the ground, with their leaves dill unwithered. By the fide of a fmall cabin, were two elk-fkins, (ftcilfully dretched out to dry, upon fmall pieces of wood. The cabin or hut befide which thefe were found, had every appearance of being a [temporary abode for hunters. Our isoyagers took away one of the elk«fkins,but left^indead of it, hatchets and other iron instruments, much more valuable as they believed, to itsowners. Theboats returned.^ The name of B^sie de Suef&ein was impofed on this bay by our navigators.*^Since it prefented nothijBg particularly intereding, to [invite thefe-day, tlrey foon renewed their cousfe, and ftill advanced to the northward. -■; The Baie -de Suffrein is fituate in qjyieg. 51 mm. N.-Lat. ['in 137 deg. 25 min. E. Long. Advancing, along thecoaft,.they made occa- fional ufe ofrHe^k^dge, and procured^iwith it a :variety of oyders,-and other fhell fifties. To'the oyfters were often attached£that little bivalve i'fJielJ-dfh, which the FrenA name pqulette, and Iwhich, on the coad of Europe, is often found in a date of i$etrife&i©n. Large whelks, fea- ihedjjjihogsof the common foi*, dar*fill*es, hol- fothurbe, and very fmall pieces of beautiful coral, were alfo among the captures whh-the dredge. Turning their courfe gradually fromthe coad of I Tartary, they now drove to crofs $he channel, towards where geographers had ta»$ht $iem to expeft to find the lands of Jess© and Or^ j«s- so. Proceeding with ihfe view, they &£n dif-. jehvered an ifland, apparently of great e»te»t£ which formed with Tartary an opening of 3® deg. fhey were then m ^4$ deg. -35 negn.ifc L A PE VROUSE^S VOFAQE Lat. They next directed'their courfe to- the Si 3L This eaftern ^Jand, very different in its aiV pe£t from Tartary, exhibited to view nought but barren rocks,^^ith pits of fnow, and having an apparent volcanic character. To theJoftieft of their fummits, M. dela Peyroufe gave the .name of Peak Lamanon, in compliment to M. Lamanon, who, in the character of a mineralogift, ac^j companied the expedition. Fogs and obftinate foutherly.winds, exceedingly incommoded our voyagers, in the navigation of the channel*^ At noon, on the i ith; the weather cleared up ; and• a very extenfive, horizon immediately opened around them; On the evening of the 12th of July, the fouthern breezes dying away, .permit-; ted them to approach the land. Some iflanders .were feeu running from the fhore, to hide themfelves in the woods. Without delay, one of the commanders, with fome of the principal per-| fons from on board both frigates, went on fhore in the boats.|it On the fhore, they quickly came to two fmall. houfes which'feegxed to have been but newly*. abandonecUby their inhabitants ; for the fires were not extinguifhe4tf thejjurniture remained, and there was a blind litter of puppies, . whofe dam was heard to bark for them from the I woods. The French navigators benignantly de- ppfited feveral hatchets and other inftruments of iron, with glafs beads, and various other articles, for prefents ? to conciliate the good-will of the peopierwhen they fhould venture to return from I the woods. The great net oe^feine was then * haled, and at once were taken- more falmons than ; would have fu diced for the confumption of the (hip's companies during a whole week. Our uoyage/s.. wore, about, to return onboard their PfiHi ROUND THE WORLD. lS$ flaps, when feven of the natives were feen to- ! knd from a canoe on the fhore, and to come up^ without fear or wonder, into the very midft of the ftrangers. Among thefe feven, were two ©Id men with long white beards, clothed in a, duff made of the bark of trees. Two wore dreffes of blue quilted nankeen. Othershaaon along robe, faftened on the body with a girdle [and a few buttons. Their heads were bare, ex- leept that two or three wore a fimple band of bear's fkin. The face and the crown of the head, [were fhaven. The hair behind, was cut to the [length of ten or twelve inches. They wore boots of feal-fkin, fkilfully formed and fewed,, after the Chinefe fafhion. Bows, pikes, arrows tipped with iron, were their arms. Their man- ers were ftrikingly dignified and fblemn. To [the eldeft, there was gteat reverence fhewn by, the reft. A fort of mutual engagement to meet' Inext dav on the fhore, paffed between them and, IM. de Langle. On the following day, the French, with M„ ide la Peyroufe himfelf, at their head, repaired again on fhore. The following is the general refult of all their obfervations upon the country and its inhabitants. They were foon met, in the creek, by twenty-one of the natiyes. Prefents, efpecially of iron and fluffs, .were offered and laccepted by the Tartars, at the very opening of. Ithe interview. Thefe underftood, as well as the French, the value and the diverfities of the [metals; prefering filver to copper, copper to iron, &c. Three or four of them had pendent ear-rings of filver, adorned with blue glafs-beads, Ifimilar to thofe which had been difcovered in the 1 tomb at the Baie de Ternai, Their other or- m LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE - naments were of copper. They had pipes, ancT: deels to ftrike fiie with, which feemed of Chinefe- ©rjapannefe manufacture." By figns, they informed the French, that theirbiue nankeen, their- beads, and their fleers, were procured from the weftern country of the Mantchou Tartars. Ob- ferving the Frenchmen to hold in their hands paper with a pencil, to write upon it ; they- gueffed the intention, and,, with a benignant attention, endeavoured, of their own accord, af- fiduoufly to explain whatever obje£ls they fup- P°fe^ ™e ftrangers might be the moft curious to Ee informed about. They, feemed fufficientljH deflrous to obtain hatchets and fluffs. But they- maintained, in all their interconrfes with the|| French, a dignity and fandity of manners, fad l'uperior to any indications of rapacious avidity, and to every, even the moft trivial acl of theft. Not a fingle falmon would they pick up, without* permiflion, from among shoofands, the produce of the fifhing of the French, which lay fcatterech on the beach. Underftanding, that the ftrangers dfclked to obtain from them,defcriptions of their owiffcountry, and of Mantchou Tartary ; they fketched, on the ground, and even, withi^ the pencils of our navigators, upon paper, the: figure of their own ifle, whim they named- Tchoka ; adjacent to it, a ftreight-; beyond the ftreight, the continental territory of the Mantchou Tartars. South from their own ifle, they reprefented another to exift, beyond an interme}! \Hace ftreight through/which the French fhips might readily pafs. €>n the continent of Tartar ry, they reprefented the river of Segalien, pout* ing its waters into the channel between Tarta|| and Tchoka,. in a pofition fomewhat fouthwarS; ROUND .TUm',H2jL>RLD. Cfli from the raoft^prthern.point of the oppofite ifle of Tchoka. From indications which thefe people communicated, the French navigators inferred the moft northern extremity of the ifle of Tchoka, to extend about -fixty-three leagues to the northward of the ftation in which their fhips then lay at anchor- By the fame fagacious and .Communicative favages, our voyagers we're informed, that, to procure the foreign commodities which they wore, thefe favages were wont to fail for a certain length up the river Segalien, andthereto meet the Tartars, by trafficking with whom they obtained thefe articles of importation. All this information was, unavoidably, to a gre-at degree^.uncertain. But, fuch as it was, it fufliciently merited the attention of M. dela Peyroufe and his "companions. A loom was procured from thefe people which fhewed what progrefs they had-made in the manufacture of cloth. It nearly refembltd thofe of -Europe. Cloth of the bark of the willow-tree is woven in fuch looms, with afhuttle, by the inhabitants of Tchoka. They examined, with a fagacious cp- riofity, the texture of the fluffs which, werepre- fented to them _by the French; and feemed to he confidering, how far it refenibled, or differed from, that of their own manufaclure.VThey do not cultivate the ground ^ ye£,fail not to avail themfelves of its fpontaneous,produce*!- Intheir huts were found many roots of the yellow lily or faranna of Kamtfchatka, which-they appeared fo "have dried for their winter's provifioii \ as alfo the roots of garlick and of angelica. Of their form of government, our voyagers, could drf- cover, during their fhort ftay, only that they heat their old men with a refpeti which feems tocoih m LA^PEYROUSES VOYAGE ^fer'upon them all the authority of patriarchs. Their ftature does not commonly exceed five feet five^iftches : Their countenances prefent regular features, and an agreeable e^prefiion : Their perfonal figure is ilout and handfomely proportioned. They permitted the French to draw their pi&ures ; but, would not fuffer them tQ *meafure the dimenfions of their bodies. Perhaps; they might look upon the propofal to mea- fure them as an attempt to make them the fub- je£ls of fome magical operation. Their women, they kept carefully hid from the fight of the vftrangersjn 1&ur Voyagers could purchafe from *{hem no moTe than two marten-flrfns. A few fkins of bears and!;feals were feen, fafhioned into clothes. Each of them wore on h'is thumb a large ring made of ivory, horn, or lead. Like the Chinefe, they preferve their -nailfe on their fingers to a great length : Like them, they falute bykneelirtg and proflrating themfelves on thei ground : They likewife fit on mats and eat wife fmall fticksi^ They may perhaps be a colony of Chinefe origin, whofe anceftors have wandered hither, at fame very remote seraln ancient times. Among them, the French voyagers^set with ^wo Mantchou Tartars, who had come hither for fome commercial puTpdfe, about a fortnight or three weeks before. Thefe men readily con- yerfed with the Chinefe failors belonging to the French frigates. Their garments were of grey* nankeen, Kke thofe of thecO©lies or ftreet^or-. ters of Macao. Their hats were of bark, and pointed. They wore the Chinefe pentfec or tuft of hair. They reported their dwelling to be eight days journey up the river Segalien. From ^e^'report5,a4-wellasfrdto other circumftaa R#>fD TtMtyORiMi iff (fefe$iM. de la Peyroufe was led to infer the coad of this part of Afia to be almoft entirely unin- -habited, from the limits of Corea in the 42 deg. «N. Latitude, as far as to the river Segalien in the 55 deg. or 54 N. fcstH$de. The cabins or huts -of the inhabkant^f Te&Oka, are of wood; Over this, a coyering of the bark of the birch-tree ; then a covering of timber ; above all, athatching of dry draw, fimilar to that on the cottages of ourjpeafaftts : The doorls in the gable-end, and -very low : The hearth is in the middle of the floor, and has a correfpondent opening in the ro©f : Immediately around the hearth, are little banks or floors of earth, rifkig eight or ten inches $tigh: The wBtie infide of the hut is fpiead I With mats : That cabin which ftfved as the !*m©del of this defefijition, ftood amid a thicket of |*r©fe-trees : Thefe fhrubs were in flower, and e±- |dbaled the mod delicious odours : But, thefe were moire than overcome bj£the flench of the fiih-oil, and other TJBtrid fnhftances ^Kjfch "filled pfliehut, and poifoned the air, all around it. jtt l^feemed curious, that^a bottle 0$ fweet-fcented water, when prefented to one of the old men, :affe£led his fenfe of ^fmelfcig with a difguft, at leaft as flrong as that with which $15 noifeme ifmell of the fifh-oil was perceived by the lien ell* [They had tobacco in Urge leaves, and of very ex- cellent quality ; and they feemed to be eternal fmokers : but fnuff they could not endure. Tfjfs hay was, in honor of M. de Langle, named the [Baie de Langle. On the 14th of Jt%, the fignal forftlHng was [given; and they prepared to leave this bay. Till the roth, they were furrounded with perpetual fogfi la1 the morning of the ioth; they lilMf *58 LA PEY R©USE*S VOYAGE faw, athwart the mjifis, the land of Tchoka, from N* E. by N. as far as E. S. E. Having continued to run along, till two o'clock in the afternoon, they then dropped anchor in water 2© fathoms deep, over a gravelly bottom, at the diftance of two miles from the fhore, and weft- ward from a fine bay. The fog afterwards dif- perfed ; and they were enabled to determine the bearings of the place where they had cad anchor. It is fituated in 48 deg. 59 min. N. Lat. in 140 deg. 32 min. E. Long, They named the bay, Baie d'Eftaing.|LTheir boats went .afhore, at 4 o'clock in the afternoon. About an hundred paces from the fea-fhore, were found ten or twelve huts, conftru£ted of the fame materials as the huts in the Baie de Langle ; but larger, and divided each into two apartments, of which the inner contained the furniture, and feemed to be the ordinary abode of the family, while the other was entirely empty, and feemed to be appropriated for the reception of ftrangers. Two of the women were accidentally met by the French officers j and were terribly alarmed at the rencounter. Sketches of their figure and countenance were, however, drawn by M. Blon- dela. Their eyes were fmall ; their lips large ; the upper lip painted blue, or tattooed ; the legs naked ; the body covered with a long linen drift; their hair lank and uncurled ; and the upper part of the head not fhaved, as on the men. The iflanders, at the firft landing of the gentlemen from the French boats, were affembled round our canoes, which were laden with fifties dried in the fmoke. . The crews of the. canoes were, as the Frenchmen learned, Mantchou Tartars, who had come hither from the banks of the ROUND THE WORLD. m river Segalien, for the purpofe of purchafing in trade, the dried fifties. Thofe geographical de-* fails which our voyagers had obtained at the Baie de Langle, were by thefe people, confirmed. A fort of circus, furrounded \vith a palli- fade of rude flakes, was obferved in one part of the territory adjacent to the huts* On the top of each flake was the fkeleton of a bear's head ; and the bones of bears were feattered around the feene. The circus and the trophies erected on its pallifade, might probably be intended to per-' petuate the memory of atchievements accom-*- plifhed by thefe people in hunting the bear, with which, fince they wait fire-arms, they muft, of neceflky, contend in clofe fight. Salmons were found to be the moft common prey of thefe people in their fifhingr They dry the fifh for fale to the Mantchou Tartars ; but take out and throw away the head, the tail, and the back- ■ Ibne. After loading the Tartars with prefentsir the Frenchmen, at eight o'clock in the evening, returned on board their fhif>s. Next day, the 20th, the frigates renewed their voyaged They failed along the coaft, at a league's diftance from' the land. A thick fog furrounding them about feven o'clock in the evening ; they were indu* ced to eaft anchor in water 37 fathoms deep, over a bottom of mud and fmall flat ftones. The ©©aft was here more mountainous-^Neither fire nor hut were to be feen ; ten cod-fifties were caught, the firft our voyagers had found, fince they left the coaft of Tartary. M. de la Peyroufe concluded from this- lad incident, that they were now not far diftant from the Tartarian coaft ; and he hopedv that, keeping clofe to the coad of Tchoka, he ftiould foon be able to O.NMH i6o LA PEYRQ^SEfs V^YAOS reach that ftreight, the eu^denee of which be& had confidentially inferred from the in/brm^on of the iftanders. The frigates, therefore, failed ©n, never at a greater diftance than two leagues from the ifland. As fo©n asthe fogs cleared up,., our navigators had a perfecf view of the channel. In t|*e latitude of 5© deg. it grew narrower, #1 it was at lad contra&ed to the fmall ex- panfe of thirty leagues. In the evening of the 2%d, they eaft anchor in 37 faihoms water, with a muddy bottom, at about a league's didance- fr©m land, this anchorage was oppofite to the mouth of a fmall river, three le^fees north from? which, appeared a very remarkable peak, which had its bafe on the fea-fhore, and, on whatever- fide it might be feen, prefented ftill the mod? perfeel regularity of form at its fummit. Its? fides were richly covered with trees and verdure. In compliment to the botanift of the voyage, M. de ht Peyroufe named it Peak la Martiniere. Ifr Was thought proper/here, to fend boats afhore, for the purpofe ofafcertairitng whether this part- of the coaft were inhabited. M. de Clonard went with four armed fhips. To the furprize* of thofe who had remained behind in the«£bips» * w c he returned in the evening with all the boats filled with falmons. He had landed at the mouth of 3 rivulet, not exceeding four fathoms in breadth, nor afoot in depth. Its bed was fo entirely covered with falmons, that the failors> with their fticks killed in an hour more than 120© of them~ Only two or three deferted huts were to be feenJ 4 Three trees were of larger dimenfions than in the more fouthern bays : Celery and creffes grew in. abtdidance on the banks of the rivulet : Ju- toper-berries grew around, in immenfe profu-» !«if! ROUfcTD THE WORLD «* 161 fion. The French botanift made here an ample collection of rare plants. Cryftallized fpars,^ and other curious nones* but no metallic ores,., were brought away by the mjperalogids. Firs^v willows, oaks, maples, birches, and medlar- trees, fill the forefts. Goofeberries, ftrawber- ries, and rafpberries, were likewife amazingly plentiful. Cod-fifhes were, at the fame time, taken in great numbers, by thofe who had remained on board'the fhips. To the rivulet which had afforded fuch plenty of falmons, M. de la Peyroufe gave the name of Salmon Brook* Renewing their voyage, they failed along, as* before, at a fmall diftance from the fhore of the ifle. On the'23& they were in 5© deg. 54 min. N. Lat. and nearly in the longitude in which,, from the Baie de Langle, they had, without va- riation^failed. A few huts appearing here and there, upon the fhore, indicated this part of the ifle to be-not deftitute of inhabitants. A bay, whichwasbbfervedinthe lad: mentioned latitude, received from our navigators the nameof Baiede la Jonquiere, but did not appear to be fo important that, they fhould particularly, explore %> They were now extremely impatient to afcertain,, whether or not the-pretended ftreight of Teffoy, was merely the ftreight dividing the ifland of Tchoka from the continental territory of the Mantchou Tartars. The foundings began, as they advanced, to be almoft equally fhallow, at- fome confiderable diftance from the coaft of Tchoka, as when thev frigates were very near to that ifle. On the 24th, in the cpurfe of three • hours progrefs, the depth of the water was found to decreafe from 24 to 18 fathoms. The attempt to obtain a greater depth, by fteering. Ox 1$2 LA PEYROUSE'S VOYAGE ^weftward towards the middle of the channel,. I proved fruitlefs. M. de la Peyroufe, upon this, determined to traverfe the whole channel twice, from ead to weft, and from wed to ead, in order to difcover whether there were not deeper* water to be found in the progrefs northward ; and whether there wete not a particular channel fimilar to that of a river for a dreight. In the evening of the 26th, they came to anchor* on the coad of Tartary. Next day they failed N. N. E. towards the middle of the channel ; I had both coafts invieWat once ; and found the depth to decreafe, in the progrefs northward, at the rate of three fathoms a league. M. de l& Peyroufe was anxious to explore the dreight frill mnch more thoroughly. But* the fouthern winds prevailed in ttfis channel with fuch a fettled' monfoon-l&e fteadinefs, and with fuch an agitating force upon the feas, that any attempt to advance much farther in this- eourfe to the northward, appeared likely to fofejeel: the frigates to extreme danger of vefy embarraf- fiflg de&y, er even of fhipwreck. The weather^ * too, began tdUbecome dormy, and the billows of the fea to roll more tempeftuoufly, tlian they had hitherto done, in this channel. The fhips could not m^lhefe circumilances, haftily proceed farther. But Mefirs. Boutin and de Vaujuas, officers equally diftinguifhed for difcernment and prudence, v/ere fent out in the boats, to ex-< plore the channel, and to make the requifite^ foundings, to the northward; M. Vairifeasj who fet off at 7 o'clock, was abfenttill midnight. He failed a league northwardj beyond Which the date of the fea and the weather would not per~ mit him to proceed. At his fartHeftdidance ROUND THE WORLD. from the fBgates, his foundings indicated only fix fathoms depth of water. M. Bou&i had returned before him, without making any difcove- ry. Immediately after the return of M. de Vaujuas, it was found neceffary for the frigates to revert their courfe. At day-break, they weighed anchor with much difficult toil, and with a breaking of the capftane, by which three of the feamen were feverely wounded. The violence of the winds and the fury of the waves, rendered their progrefs, for a fliort time, both laborious and dangerous. Some flight variations of the winds from S. to S. W. and to S. S. E. foon took place, however, in a manner favourable to them ; and, in 24 hours they made five leagues. In the evening of the 28th, they found themfelves at the openir%©f a bay on the coaft of tartary. Want of wood and water fuggeded the propriety of here halting and going on fhore for fupplies. At five o'clock, they call anchor at the N. point of this bay, in water eleven fathoms deep, with a muddy: bottom* Boats were foon fent out: a Tartar village was defcried ; cafeades of limpid water were- perceived ; and four wooded iflets were obferved to fbelter a road, where the frigates might ride at anchor, in perfect fecurity. At eight o'clock, on the next morning, the?rigates were conducted to the bottom of the bay ; andMsvere brought to reft at anchor in water fix ,fathoms deep; with a muddy bottom. 1.6-4 LA PEYROUSE S VOYA@E CKASP. IX.- Narrative of the voyage continued, from the 2$th of July to the 6th ofi September, 1787. Tranf- aBidns and Difcoveries in the Bate de Caftries.- Difcovery of a Streight dividing Jefifofirom Oku- Jeffo. Vocabulary of the Language of Tchoka, named by the Ruffians, Segalien. Courfe to Kamifchatka, is'c. O fooner were the frigates moored, thart- both the French commanders prepared to go on fhore. They appointed the long-boat to take in water; the barge, to bring the wood which was- wanted, from the fhore; the fmall boats to be| at.the command of Meffrs. Blondela, Bellegarde, Mouton, Bernizet, and Prevoft junior, while they fhould make a furvey of the bay ; the vawls* which drew little water to be ufed in fifhing,falmons in a fmall river abounding withi them ;.the pinnace^:, to be ready for carrying themfelves and the fcientific gentlemen a-fhore, to fuperintend the different works, and to ex* plore thei&srritory contiguous to the coaft.- The aftronomical apparatus was, without delay, fet up, on an iflet which they named Ifle de L'Ob- fervatoire ; and Meflrs. Dagelet, Laurifton, and Darbaud,. immediately applied themfelves to make the^jequifite obfervations for the correc-v tion off tKeir time-keepers, and for afcertaining the different bearings. Thefe obfervations foon fhewed the prefent anchorage of the frigates to he fituate in 51 deg. 26 min. N. Lat. in 139 deg. 41 min. E. Long. The time of high-water,, ztfull and cb&nge, was at ten o'clock : the great* oft rife of the tide, at thefe periods, was for five 4m ROUND THE WOR^jp \6j feet eight inches above the ordinary level of the fea : the current run at the rate of aifieaft half a*knot an hour. The bottom of the bay is muddy. Approaching the fhore, the depth of the water is gradually diminifhed from twelve to five fathoms. To three cables-length from the fhore, the coad is furrounded by a flat, which makes it- difficult to land, even in a boat, when the tide* I is low. Extenfive beds of fea-weeds, too4 among which the water is but two or three feefe [deep, oppofe another troublefome obftacle to [thofe who attempt to land from boats. But this* [bay affords certain fhelter from the dorms o£ winter ; and the Frenchoavigators thought it to I be, of all that they had vidted on the 'Fasftariaa coad, the only one that was truly worthy tto, I name of Bay. They named it Baie de C&M& I TRIES. * PPti$ Our voyagers had no fooner landed, than inker views took place between them and the mde (natives ©f the adjacent country. The chief or patriarch of the horde, with fome others of the* tthhabitants, received M. de la Peyroufe upon the beach. That venerable lavage falutcd the ftrangers by proftration, according to the Chinefe ceremonial; and then conducted them to jfeehis wife, his children, his daughters-in-law, and grand-daughters, in his hut. The French- [men were there invited to fit down on a mat; which was refpe&fully fpread f©r t&em ; and t©i [partake of a diili of grain with felmon, winch [was made ready for their entertainment, •f£hefe good people made their vifitors to underftaiwj^, Fhat they were themfelves of the nation of the Orotchys ; and that fome dranger Tartars, who bad recently arrived in four canots, ^ere of the-' 166 LA PEYROUSE's VOYAGE Bitcmys ; a tribe inhabiting at fome not very I considerable didance Ifcerhward. The Orotchys inhabited a village, confiding of four cabins or huts, of a ftruclure confidera-] bly folid and durable. Trunks of fir-trees, laid at full length, and neatly cut at the angles, formed the walls: A frame^ of not unfkilful workmanship fupported the roof: 'Bhe roof was covered with the bark tsi trees. Within, there was, in the middle of the dwelling, the hearth with the fire, and correfponding to them, in the roof, a hole for the emifiion of the fmoke : Around the walls were wooden benches : There | was no commendable degree of cleanlinefs to be remarked here, any more than in the cabins on? the ifland of Tchoka.^ The four cabins were inhabited by as many different families, which appeared to live together in great harmony, and with the mod perfect, mutual confidence. Every hut was fiirrounded with a dage for the drying of falraQns..§rThefe are fird cleaned ; thenr for three or four days, fmcked round the fire ;, after this, put on the poles of the dage, in the ©pCn air, and left to dry to the hard nets of wood, in the heat of the fun. With fuch exalted, moral fencTtity, do thefe good people refpecf the djdin&ions of property, that the French navigators foon expofed their goods, unguarded, on the fhore, in the midft of the Tartarhuts, without the fmalled fear of theft, and without a fingle indance of even the mod trivial lofs. The Orotchys purfued the fifliery in the river, at the- fame Hfte with the French drangers. It was* with extreme difgud the Frenchmen beheld them eat, with the greated avidity, in a raw date, the fuout, the gills, and the fmall bones, and ROUND THE WORLft. the fkin of the falmons, as they caugh#them. Of thefe parts, the falmons are*«fually thus cleared by tfce fiihers, in the catching. What of the fkin in particular, remains when fifties are brought to the houfe§> is very eagerly fofe^pIV out, ^nd devoured raw, by the women. Thofe rings which the inhabitants of Tchoka were ob- ferved to wear on the thumb, are intended for the protection of the thumb while the falmons are dripped with a fharp knife, the edge of which often ftrikes again ft the ring. Befide the huts which flood at the very landing-place where the French navigators came afhore, they faw on the oppofite fide of the bay, another village confifting of eight huts, fituate at the edge of a wood. At a fmall diftance above this laft village, were perceived three Yourts or fubterra- neous houfes, having an exac~l fimilarity to thofe of Kamtfchatka, which are defcribed by Cook* Contiguous to the village, were obferved feveral tombs of a ftrudlure fuperior to that of the houfes. Bows, arrows, fifhing-lioes, and in general whatever is moft precious among the poffef- fions of thefe people, appear to be depofited with the dead bodies in the tombs. Within each monument, were three or four biers of not inelegant workmanfhip, ornamented with brocades, and other Chinefe fluffs. Although tbfii •village feemed to be but a temporary winter abode ; yet the houfes were filled with the dref- fes and implements of the people ; fkins, fhow- ihoes> bows, arrows, pikes, &c. Tnefe generous-minded favages, without alar®, faw front the d|>pa£te fide of the gulph, the French enter their dwellings, and even defeend in- jto their tomb$£i The French, .knowing and i&S LA^PEYROUSE's VOYAGE reverencing his noble-Handed confideitce of their hods, fcrup&ioafly. withheld their hands from injuring or carrying off the fmalleft of thofe articles which they were thus unmidrudfully permit^d to examine. Thefe people are alfe $U©nt to 4ml 1 up and dry for ufe, as winter food, I the roots ofthe^ranna, and fome other plants. The bodies of the poorer dead are expoied on sjgprs in the ©pen air, on a dage of fome elevation, with their dreffes and implements of hunt, Jgg and fifliing, hung around them. There appeared no reafon for thinking that thefe hordes owned,-an v Other £&m of government thafiithe '•Amply natural and patriarchal. They are a fee* ©le race ; and their features are remarkably different from all thofe forms to which we are wont to attach the idea of beauty. The middle dature among them, rifes not to four feet ten inches. Their bodies are lank ; their voices* thin and faint, as thofe of children ; their cheek* bones, high; their eyes, fmall, bleared, and ftanding diagonally in the fockets* They have the mouth, large ; the nofe, flat; the chin, fliort, and almod beardlefs ; their fkin, of an olive colour, and fuhiciently varnifhed with fmoke and oil. Both men and women fuSer the hak to grow to a great length : The men Jrinding it up, as is common among ua*j the w©*_ men wearing theirs loofe upon the fhoulders* The labours of the women are confined to the cutj^ag and fewingof cloths for themfelves and the mea, the management of their children, &k curing of fifties for winter dore^gl The children are, to the age.4f {three or four years, fuclfled at the bread. The Women appeared to enjoy considerable influence orex all the tranfactions of Round the wonlfe. it5|f■ .&e men. No>jbargu«?s would the latter conclude ^iththeir French vjifitants, without having -frrft obtained 'the eonfent of their»wives. The •^copper trinkets, and the pendent filver earrings, are, properly, the ornaments of the wives and daughters. A waiftcoat of nankeen, or of ■d©g^-fWfe, ©r fifh-^kin, cut into the fhape of a •waggoner's frock^fe the common drefs of the •men and boys. Whefl^jthis garment reaches ■below the knees, no drawers are worn with it. If the Waiftcoat be fhorter, drawers, in the.Chi- nefelafhion, and reaching fo low as to the calf of the leg, are in this cafe, worn. In winter, Kthey wear, all, feal-fkin boots. At aH times, kand of whatever age, they wear a leathern girdle, from which are fufpended—a fmall bag with tobacco, a deel to drike fire, and a knife 4h a fhesth. The women, differing fomewhafc in drefs from the men, wrap 'tlteet&felves in % large nankeen roke,: or -in a robe of falmon's "&tn, tanned wMi a ffelll that makes it very fit for this ufe. *0he falmons, of whicM* the fkins are thus tanned, are taken only in winter, and weigh from thirty t© forty pounds. The robe reaches to the anftle-botfe, andi&there bordereft with a fringe of fmall copper ornamentSig^Of the religioh ©f this people, no monument^hor [indications could be difcovered by the*f!rench i navigators,'feS^ept feme rudely carved figures ©f (children, arms, hands, legs, which were fuf- gbendedftom the roofs of 4he huts, and greatly refembled the votive offetlngs at the Roman I Cathode chapels. They feemed to look upon [their French vifitants as fiorcerers ; fo th^Ffhey Jmiidhave fomenotionsOf a malignant, ihperna- |turalfower,wh«^rtoy be ctomn^eated and ily 170 LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE fi exercifed f or the purpofgijgf injurlig mankind Jnftead of grafping greedily at the prefents ^ which jsvere offered t© them, they rather fhow- ■* / ©d a delicate and high-fpirited reluctance to a^-; cept fuch prefents. They feemed to expe& them to be offered with a refpectfel politenefs^ fueh as might not humble and wound the fph> its of the receivers. Gifts offered to their children, gave infinitely greater delight to tHe parr ents, than fuch as were prefented to themfelves. I 3M. de la Peyroufe, careffing two little children in oneof the huts, gave them, in the prefence of ; their parents, a piece of rofe-ooloured nankeen^ The father immediately going out, returned withl his moft beautiful dog, and intreated the Frenchjj commander to aec*pt him: When M. de la Peyroufe refufed the prefent; the father made his children, who had received the nankeen, to put their hands upon the dog, and to beg their benefactor to take him.$|jThis little traufa&ion indicates a tendernefs and generofity ©f lenti-* ment, fuch as could not eafily be excelled by the virtues of a civilized people, Their dogs, the wolf dog, are ©f middle fize, very ftrong,'' very gentle and docile, andr apt to be yoked, like thofe ©f Kamtfchatka, in fmall, light fledges.* Fr©m the ftranger Bctchys whom the French navigators here found trading with the Orot-i chys, information was obtained, that the ftreight between the Tartarian continent and the ifland of Tchoka, becomes, at length, in a fituation <conftderably northward from that wheno^the French frigates had reverted their courfe, a dry fandy bank, abfolutely without water. After*j|us,^ M. de la Peyroufe abandoned every defign with jqg^S to this gnlph, fove .that of exploring the ROUND THE WORLD^ 1-7* fbuthern limits of the ifland of Tchoka. The; naturalifts, in the mean time, were affiduous in the ftudy of the mineralogy of the coafts and the ' iflets of the Baie de Caftries. The iflets are compofed of trapp, grey bafaltes, and red lava,\ both compact and porous. No volcanic cra- | teres were, however, difcovered ;: and the erup- itions were, therefore, inferred to have been very [ancient. Several cryftalizations were found \ among the volcanic matters. No new fpecies I were here found by the botanlfts. The ftraw- berries and rafp-berries were ftill in flower : the i goofberries were beginning to turn red : Celery i and evades were not plentiful* Foliated oyfter3 I ©fa black and vinous colour; beautiful whelks ; peftines ; fmall common muscles; with different varieties of the Kima-cockJe, were found by (the conchologifts. Water-hens, wild-ducks, cormorants, gmllemots, black and white wagtails, a fmall undefcribed fly-catcher of an azure blue colour, were among the fowls fhot by the hunters. The individuals of all thefe fpecies* ! Were, however, but rare. They appeared not in flocks, but folitary mournful, and drooping, The martin and fatad-martin were the onlyfpe- Icies of birds which appeared to be here in their proper element, and natural refidence It is probable, rhat, to a certain depth, the earth remains here frozen, even during fummer. The itemperature ofpthe ftreams never exceeded 4. deg. of Reaumur's thermometer. In the open air, the murcury flood at 15 deg. Thefe peo- ; pie are utterly ftrangcrs to the practice of agriculture. Yet, they are fond of vegetable fub- I fiances, and collecl: the wild bulbous roots for tjieir winter's provifions. In genius, art, and ?72 '$& PEYROUSE S VOYAGE iisluftry, as in vigour of bodily conftkution, they are greatly inferior to the inhabitants of Tchoka. On the 2d day of Auguft,- the French frigates failed with a fair wedern wind, from the bottom of the Bay de Caftries. This was foon af*f ter changed for fouthern winds. They wifhed rerun along the coad of the continent, till they fhould come within fight of Peak Lamanon. The weather, hitherto favourable, became, on the 6th^exceeding!y inclement. The tempeftu- nus rorfing of the billows, together with adverfe breezes from the fouth, obliged them to fjailwitl\ all their fails expanded, and with extreme cau* tion, led they fhould be carried backwards, or Irurried into fudden danger. The barometer fell as low as to twenty-feven inches five linesw A thoufand circumftanccs confpiring, rendered^ their progrefs extremely dangerous and alarming. Northerly winds, however, came at laft to their relief. In the evening: of the oth, the fri- gates had, by the afliftance of thefe winds, reached the latitude of the Bale de Langle. A band, a£r fording very regular foundings, was found tq extend oppofite to this bay, for ten leagues, from north to fouth, and, at the fame time, to run out, for about eight leagues weftward. Pre*; ceeding along the coaft, at two: leagues of difs£ tance from it, they faw, to the fouthweft, afmsiP low-lying ifle, between which and Tchoka was? formed a channel about fix leagues wide, This ifle received the name of Isle Monneron, in honour of M. de Mbnneron, who was engineer for this expedition. A peak, at leaft ten or twelve hundred toifes in height, was fhortiy after obferved; and it received from our voyagers, JHH JtOUND THE WORLD. *7£ the name of Peak, de Langle. Its portion is- in 45 deg. 15 min. N. Lat. The fouthern point of the Ifland of Tchoka or Segalien, was next difcovered : it was found to lie in 45 deg. 57 min. N. Lat. in 140 deg. 34 min. E. Long, in length from north to fouth. - The ifle of Tchoka, which thus terminates, is one of the greateft in: the world. It is this fame ifle which has been otherwife known by the name of Oku Jesso. Chicha, divided from Tchoka by a channel which is but twelve leagues in breadth, is the ^esso of the Japanefe ; and its extenfion fouth- ward, is bounded only by the Streight of San- GAR. The Kurile Isles lie farther eaftward; and between thefe ifles, on the one fide, and the two Jeffos, or Chicha and Tchbka,on theother,is comprehended that which has been denominated the Sea. of Jefib,,,and communicates with the ;,Sea of Ochotsk. At Cape Crillon, the inhabitants of the ifland of Tchoka, for the fird time, ventured to vifit the French navigators 011 board-their fhips. At their firft coming on board, they betrayed fome fears; which, however, were almoft immediately changed for extreme confidence^ They acted with the fame freedom,, as if among their bed .friends : fate down ipt a circle on the quarter-deck, and gayly fmoaked their pipes^J This confidence of theirs was, by the French, encouraged and rewarded with prefents of iron inftruments, beads, filks, tobacco, and nankeen,^ Tobacco and brandy were foon perceived to be the articles which they prized the moft. v The figures of thefe iflanders are ftout and well-proportioned; 'the features are regular; their beard reaches to the breaft ; their arms, neck, and back, are covered with \m r/4 LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE hair. Their middle ftature feemed to be about:' alj inch lower than that of the French. Their ikin is tawny as that of the nations on the coaft cS^Barbary^l;/their manners were grave and dignified. But they fhewed much more ©f avarice, and lefs of gratitude, than the Orotchys of the Bale de Caftries. Their drefles are a^tffe.* 'workmanfhip of &eir own hands. Their huts and furniture difplay nO inconfiderable neatnefs and elegance. They extracVflie oil of^he whale, Bjrcutlftig the carcafe into fmall pieces, expo— fing thefe pieces to putrify on a jflepe before the fun, and receiving the oil, as it runs from their putrefaction, into veffels of bark or feal fkhSJ^ conyenientlyt|placed. It is only oft the eaftern fide of the ifland of Tchoka, that the whales appear. Though their modes of life fefefo near- ]y fimrfor to thofe of the Tartars on the continent, it is not inipoflible but they may be a race of preople defcended from fome very different ©rigift. They appeared to po-flefka confiderable geographical knowledge of this ifle, and the oppofite cofl|ment: And their information confirmed thofe conclufions wpich our voyagers had before beenieo' to make. Concerting Cape Crif- len,however, our voyagers might have been le$ into a fatal error, if they hike* too haftify believed. iv$mt they Underftood to be the communication of their infular friends. The canoe being to thefe people their only mean of ineafurement \ said corbparifon ; they are apt to regard a,cove, tijataffords reception for but three or four ca- sjbes, as a Vaft harbour, arid to repre'fent a fathom of water, as a depth almoft irameafurable. M. de Vaujeas, who had gone to Verify the communication ofthe favages .concerning Cape Criilon, ROUND THS W0&£1>. retwied hef&re night, wkh a large q»aiRtity of Salmons, and fomearticles which he had received from the natives, in barter. He had found [the h©ufes furnifhed with a comparative fumptu-f oufnefs, and ornamented within, with large var- nifhed veffels of Japan. The contiguity of Chicha enabled thefe people to obtain articles of Japanefe manufacture in exchange f©r their» whale oil, much more readily than can theiri more northern neighbours. At the approach- of evening, the iflandero left the fhips, with av iprOmife to re-vifit them next morning. They^ returned with feme falmons, a fabre, and a linen* idrefs, in exchange for-which, they obtained* knives and hatchets. They would gladly have perfuaded our voyagers to double Cape Crillon,, and enter the gulph of ANiVAV-©r rather a bafir in it, to which they gave the name of Tabouo* RO. A light breeze from the north-eaft, enabled! bur voyagers againjj to fail. Doubling Capen Crillon, they perceived from the mad-head, a rock, or iflet, about four league* S. E. from the roeky point of the cape; and didioguifhed itfc by the name of La Dangerelusb. It is kv©H with the furftee of the water, and may proba^- Bly be covered when the tide is at its height. Whey fteered to the? leeward of this rock* andfe went round it, at a league's didance. #They&; Had,.at this diftance,regular foundings in. twenty three-fathoms-depth of water* Theitfr progrefs now croffed4he*8raight betwees^Shka and* ifihoka, which has very properly:* been named La pEYROusB'e^STRELQHi^ They^oundCAPE An iv a to be very correctly-placed in the maps- of the^Dutch: navigators- who* formerly vifited: LA PEYROUSE*S#OYACE thefe feasw On the i£th, they were, by adron- ©mical obfervation, and by their time-keepeM in N. Lat. 46 deg. 9. min. in E. Long, 142 deg^ 57 min. They faw no land, and could find no bottom- The fky was, on the 16th and 17th,, grey, and thickly obfeured by fogs. The wind changed to the ead ; and our navigators makipg^ a task to the fouth, had a clear view of Staten Ifland. On the 19th, Cape Troun, to the fiipth- ward, and Cape IJries, S. E. by E. appeared in fight. On the 2cth, they faw Gompany's Ifland, and.through fogs reconnoitered the Streighfei ©f Uries.- Company's Ifland, along which they ran, at three or four leagues of didance,-. appeared to be barren, deditute of verdure, and uninhabitable* Some clefts in the white-co— loured rocks, were at- fird midaken for fnow, but afterwards more accurately didinguifhed- To the N. E. point of this ifle, our navigators, gave the name of Cape Kastricum, in honour of the fhip by which it was fird difcovered. Beyond it, they could perceive three or four iflets ;. and northward, a large channel, which feemed. to divide Company's Ifland from the Kuriles.f Fogs made it impoffible for them, to continue; their courfe on the 2id, the 22d, and the 23 d.. On the 24th, the 25th$aad 26th, the fame fogs' dill prevailed; and our navigators were obliged- to continue tacking-amongjthefeifles. On the apthy.the weather cleared up ; and they-again* difeerned the fummksof the mountains. They* defcried Mareckan Ifle, the mod fouthem of the Kuriles.. FromN. E> to S. W. its length is about ten leagues. A high jutting rock terminates each of its extremities : In its middle rifes apeak, that at a didance, feems to contain the- R*)UND TJTE WQfcM>< mt orifice of a volcano. The northerly winds pr^* vailing, determined our navigators to fail out hfi the channel which lies" fouth ward from Marec- |kan. During the night they crowdedfaifein order to reach the entrance of the channel^^fe day-break, they defcried the fouthwed point of JMareckan, dHlant at about two leagues to tfcfe [feufch-ead. To this point was given the name [of Cape Rollin, in honour of M. Rollin, the furgeon of the expedition. They were left, for feme fhort time, in a dead calm. Bur^ the current fortunately drove them towards the middle of the channel; and they advanced, in this way>- about four leagues eadward. The breadth of the channel, they certainly found to be about [fifteen leagues. The winds at lad fettled #$» E. N. E. and they entered the channel by cleats moon light. It was named by them Canal de. LA Boussole ; and they thought it to be the* fined that was to be found among the Kurile Ifles. At midnight, the fky was again obfeiired ot clouds ; andthe next morning was V^Hed in. raiick fogs. At fix in the evening, w|rile thei fogs ftill continued, they tacked towards the [land. The fogs were dill thick. Jjfcwards [midnight, the fhiftingof the wind to the W. enabled the French frigates to dand to the eaft- [ward, whUe they waited for the retur^of mora-: [ing. The fun was twice vifible dlging; the morning^The fogs then returned wiffe;equal khicknefs as in the preceding day. M. de la Peyroufe, in confideration that the feafon was far advanced, was now at lad induced to abandon the defign of exploring the northern Kur- I ifles, and to bend his conrfe towards Kfcrot- fehatka. He therefore/W,E. N. E. Till the 178 LA PfYfteUSE's VOYAGE" 5th of September, the fo|s dill obfcured their horizon. During this progrefs, they had time to compare and examine in a more particular manner, their refpecTive obfervations concerning the natural hidory ©f the new lands which they had Vifited, and the date of focietv in thefi^ The " 4 feas ©f Tartary which they explored, though the limits of the olded inhabited continent, had been utterly unknown to Europeans. The Je- fuits could nevCr communicate any decifive information concerning the eadern part of the Chinefe empire. Such of them as travelled into Tartary, were never permitted to approach the fea-fhore. The emperor always prohibited every perfon from failing to the northward of his dominions: And it was fuppofed that this northern region of Afia concealed riches, which its lords were anxious to hide from the avarice of ftrangers. From the obfervations of the French navigators, it has appeared, that the northern coad of Ead Tartary is as thinly inhabited a%- ^hat ©f North America. Its mountains and the i#gr of Segalien have cut it off, except at the fea-coad, from being explored by the Chinefe or the Japanefe. Its inhabitants are peculiarly didinguifhed, alike from the Mantchou Tartars, an£ from the iflanders of Jeffo, Oku-Jeff©, and the Kuriles. The river of Segalien is the general receptacle of its waters. The whole- number of the people inhabiting in the tracl: from the 42 deg. of North latitude, as far as to' the Bate de Caftries, would certainly be over-rated at three millions. The river of Segalien not far removed beyond this bay, is the only channel of paffage to the interior commerce of -ROUND THE WORL&. M9 theipountry^ The inhabitants of Jeffo and Oku- Jeffo, are all well acquainted with the exiftence of the river of Segalien. The adventures of commerce, however, advance up it, but for eight or ten days journey.^The raarfhps which furround the mouth of the river, probably e|£ elude the Tartars with their flocks, from all residence near it. The ancient narratives of the Jefuits, have reprefented this coad as the fcene ©f a pearl-fifhery :, But the French navigators did not any where find pearls of fuch beauty, or in fuch numbers in the fhells of the oyfters which they dragged up, as that they could determine any thifig concerning the reality of that i piece of information. No permanently inhabited villages were feen on the coaft._ Bears, hinds, fawns, were perceived feeding in a tranquility, that fhewed thefe fcenes to be little frequented by mankind, on the coad of the Baie deTernaie. A tomb, with the remains of fome . burnt trees, were the only things indicating this region to be, at all, the refort of human inhabitants. The Baie de Suffrein was equally defolate. Nor did the whole population of the Baie de Caftries appear to exceed five and twenty or thirty g^rfons. LFlint, chalcedony, calcareous fpar, zeolite, porphyry, feveral beautiful cry dais and incruftations of volcanic origin, with a diverfity of other mat- ters^iuch as are often found amid the lavas of extinguifhed volcanoes; but no metallic fub- dances ; were found ©n thefe coafts by the mineralogifts attendant on the French voyage. Tchoka or Oku-Jeffo, prefents a coaft ftill more fertile in vegetation than the oppofite continent of Tartary ; Yet, the vegetable kingdom fug** #iihes but a comparatively fmall proportion of *a iBo LA-PfcYROUS^-S VOYAGE the fubfiftence of its inhabitants, only the roots of faranna and of garlic. Even hunting feemsl to yield but an inconfidetabfe part c#theit provisions : jgilheir-dogs refofed flefli, but deveiteed fifh With the moft voracious eagernefs. Tlid fkins of elks arid bears, forming a part of the drefs of thefe people, feemto befpeak, that they are wont to kill thefe animals in the chace. It is, pr©bably, in winter alone, that they attack them with their arrows,- when the animals are the moft feeble and helplefs. They are Tike- wife wont to take them by fnares, into which thd ^animal is'enticed by a bait, in catching at which he moves a trigger by which an arrow is discharged, that gives him his death's wound. The ffflanders appeared proud of the fears which they «had received in combating with bears. Their i canoes were hollowed trunks of the fir-tree, •and appeared capable of containing feven or ieight perfons. Thefe ffender veffels rowed with very light oars, are employed by their pofleflbrs in voyages to the diftance of two hundred leagues, from the fouthern extremities of Jefl© | and Oku-Jefib,.as far as to the river of Segalien, in 33 deg. N. Lat. The winds, flowing the ~dire€lion^f the channel, produce no futf upon <th<Hfiiore; in consequence of wfuch,?i becomes . eafy to land in aFHhe creeks : and the canoes, 4h their long voyages, are every evening run a- ~ground, Croffing from "one iflaind to another, ^thfey feize always the feafon of a perfect calm. ■ ?£kt Other times, their progrefs is always within %lr#tliftance of a piftol-Ibot from the land. Sai- ifiiOns, to be caught at the mouth of every rivulet, Afford them fubfidence: They erect cabins -wherever theyH&op, ftrike fire with a fteel, ftOU&D THE WORLD, lot -Stilt, and tindeji and drefs -ti|eir provifibas ac- ©Itding to their ordinary domeftic pracliCfi,! Sometimes, they form witK a.fpuple of oars and a garment, a fort of rude maft and fail. Vim,. finall canoes, fuch as contain not more than two rntn, are ufed for fifhing in the fmall rivers, and are pufhed about in fliallow water, with Khali flicks inftead of poles. The manners on the coaft of Tartary, are very nearly the fame as |id Tchoka; but, the French voyagers thjHight, the^ Could perceive the exiftence of X difllm&ion S'of ranks among the iflanders, which did not meet their obfervation on the continent. There ■*#as, in every one of-the Canoes of the iflanders', one man -Svith whom the reft did not eat nor i cOnverfe, and whoj if not a flave, was certainly | Inferior to the reft in rank. The commerce of their whale oil, and the frequency of their inter- courfe with the Japanefe, have conferred on the people of Jeffo and Oku-Jeffo, an opulence ptfhieh does not appear among the Bitcbys ati3r the Orotchys.—Images were feeh fufpended from the roofs of the huts, ifi.the Bales de Gafi-. -ries, and de Crulon. At the Baie de Crilton, the chief of a canoe, receiving a bottle of brandy from M. de la Peyroufe, poured fome drops from feinto the fea, as a libation to the deity • whom he worfhipped, before he would, himfelf, [■pre fume to tafte it.0 It is not likely, that the L&ropeans will ever be tern^ted to frequer|tthefe Teas on account of thofe fmail quantities of fkins, ! dried fifties, and whale-oil, which alone they afford for commerce. The French navigators humanely declined the purchafe of the dried Salmons which the people of thefe coafts had L^rovidedfortheir winter provifions, left, parting ' 18.2 .A PEYROUSE'S VOYAGE with thefe, the good folks might be Jjjjduced toA perifh by famine, amid the ftorms of winter^ No fea-otters were here tQ be feen ; nor did the natives appear to have any particular knowledge ©f the exiftence of fuch an animal, or of the value of furs. jjThe fea-otter is indeed moft probably to be found only in the eaftern part of the northern Kuriles. Peak de Langle, being more than twelve hundred toifes in height, and in clear weather,vifible'at the diftance of 4oleagues,isan excellent land-mark for the fouthern coaft of the newly difcovered channel of Tartary. The Ruffians, though not the difcoverers of this channel and its adjacent ifles, are likely to profit the moft by the difcovery; for they will, hereafter, in all probability, carry on a great navigation in the fea of Ochotsk, and eftablifh art, fcienee, and an abundant, civilized, population, in thefe regions, of which the folitude is, at prefent, fcarcely enlivened by a few hordes of wandering Tartars.. It is impoffible now to afcertain by what progrefs thefe northern extremities of the Afiatic coafts received their population. But it may eafily be conceived, that when the adjacent continent was once peopled, fome of thofe innumerable accidents to which the fortunes of mankind are fubj eel: j could not fail to diffufe a few fugitives or adventurers, even into regions fo re- -mote and comfortlefe. The following is the moft ample vocabulary of the language of the ifland ©f Tchoka, which the French navigators were, du-; ring their fhort flay on the coaft, able to collecT. Tjheir pronunciation is guttural, yet foft, refem* blkig that of perfons who have the defect in articulation,, of fpeaking thick. ROUND THE WORLD. i33 ii Tke principal Parts of the human Body Chy, Tara, Quechgtau, Ftou, Notamekaun, Tsara, T"ma, Aon, cMochtchiri} Tehse, £$j-chara-9 Chap a, \Ochetourou, Saitourou, Tap in ehin, TaBsfouk, Tay, Tay-ha, Tay-pompe, Tchouai pompe Khouaime pompe, Kmoche kia pompe% Obftapompe Para pomp}) Tchame, Toho, Hone, Sftga, Chipouille, AJforoka9 Am be, Auchi) Eyes •Eye-brows Forehead Note Cheeks Mouth Teeth Tongue a Chin Beard Ears j Hair Nape of the neck Back Shoulder j Arms p||- Fore-arm Wrid. 'Si ., i Hand and fingers Thumb Fore finger Middle finger Fourth fingerfi Littje finger Fore and upper parts of the bread Nipples Belly Privateparts of the man Private parts of a woman Buttocks I Thighs Knees m ..Jim m i?4 LA PEYROUSE'S VQYAG1 Tcheai, ♦ Aimaitfi, Oatchiia, Acoupotie, Paraure. Olocpukaion Ouraipo Kama pompe am, ^Tafifbu pompeam,, Taffou ha pompeam.f $affouat&i Ham or bend of the knee Calf of the leg Ankles Upper part of the foot Heel Sole of the feet Greattoe Second toe Middle toe Fourth, and the little tee Names of a Diverfity of Other obfiBs. Tchoka, Taninaj Chicka* Mantehous^ ^/z,or Kahamh A fhip The great ifland which they inhabit Another lefs general name for the fame ifle An ifland or people, fouth, from Tchoka A people of Tartary, dwel-; lmgon the river Segalien, N. W. from Tchoka The fea urous St icom Lock-koutiu A canoe A thole of a canoe Oars or paddles A fmall veffel with a hanJ die, which is made of birch-bark, and is ufed in drinking, and in empty- the canoes of water * ■ &OU&IJ TtfE Wd&Lt)* Ouaehekeihaiy Turatie, Soitta, Moncardf tio, Ceuhotf Hai, Taffehaif JEtantOy Tajfiro, Matfirainitfi and Makiri) Matfire, Hakame? Jffaine^ Techicotampe, Achka, %obekaf A Wooden 'fcoop or fhove'I, for emptying the canoes of water A very long, ftroiig, yet narrow leathern draj?, ufed in fadening canoes The bench of a'canoe An iron hatchet, imported by the Mantchou Tartars A great lance of tempered iron, likewife imported by the Mantchou Tartars A bow ||| Common arrows tipped with iron, fmooth or barbed. M. T. || Forked arrows, tipped with iron. M. T. Blunt wooden arrows. A large cutlafs. M. T. A fmall knife in a fheath^ which hangs from a leathern girdle round the body* m. t. m A name for a French knife in a fheath & y| A large thumb-ring of iron, lead, wood, or the fea-' cow's tooth Ipll A Tewing needle A cravat or handkerchief A hat or bonnet The fkin of the fea-calf^ ||f made into a long,, loofe great coat LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE Achtouffa^ A loofe great coat, very fkil- fully made of the bark of the birch tree Seiaroufiy A large great-coat of dog- fkin Tetai!0p¥ A coarfe duff fhirt, orna-' merited with an edging of nankeen. Otoumouchi'jf, $mall, round-headed, waift ' coat buttons of brafs M. T. Bufkins of fkin, fewed ton Ochfth i the fhoes SchirAn* Shoes in the Chinefe. fa- fliion, terminating in a point, which bends up wards jMlraulau% A leathern bag, with four twifted horns, which is- \ '.'; ! 1 hung as a pouch, at the ,.n girdle yfcharowffh), Ear-rif],gs, cenfjfting each,, v tw,i commonly of fix of eight blue beads. M. T. Tama, Single blue beads. Blue is the favourite colour of all., thefe people MUraichtchivhn, A large and drong matj on whicil they fit or lie down to flecp Achkakarottp}$ A fereen in the fhape of a fan,, which the old men, wear to protect their;eyes-( from the fun Hounechif The fire Tcitnoui) A dog -41 ROU N I> T Wk W0&L%g ^8^7 Taifb^y Nintou, Ouachka+Wm Chicimpq, \Abtka, Sorompe, ChouhoUy. warn M Pouhau, \ Nioupouri,: Oho% Nayef. Tfouhoiz, Hourara Hourara, haune^ Tebaira, Oroar Tebairouha^ f||| Choumauy m :t ■- •..' £h fehecM* Toche, Choulaki, Otoroutchina,: Tfiboko, Mahounly Taroho, Mahatfi* Pech Koutouj A muftet , A bucket for drawing water, fhaped like ours|$itmade ©f the bark of the birch tree Freshwater Sea-water Small cord A large wooden fpooa* | Adsooper kettle. M, T ? A r.odor pole A hut ©r houfe The h©ufe, the hamlets^ Th& plain on which ftand& the hamlet or isS^ge A river running acrofs the plain H Thei fun The firmament Thj&elouds M The wind The cold The. feafon of fnow, .y%&tet\ AciXone; Wood, the trunk fofta tree Plank or fir Bark of rough birch-trees, in large pieces Mofs,,a .plant Pailures, meadows Smallage,wild celery The. wil^rofe-1 ree -ihe dOg-rofe, or bloffom of the rofe-tree A fort of tulip The plant angelica mm mm Tfita, ^f-lari, Ftouchka, Tfitkaha, Mdchiy Omoch, loconiaie* Pipa, Otaffl, ToukochLhy Fmoe, Chauboun^ Pauni, Chidarape, He, hi% Houakd, ' Ta-fi*, 31 Tap, Tape, Couhaka% Ajbr> Cbuka, Mouaro. LA PEYROUSE S VOVA0-#. A bird, the finging of a birp SJkA bird's feather The jack daw A fmall common fwallow A gull A common fly The common kima cockle The mother-of-pearl oyder Harp-fifh Salmon Fifties in general, alfo a fpecies of barbel A variety of the carp A fifh bone The roes, eggs, and aij9 bladder of nfhes, which are broiled and preferved in heaps A few common Words* ;iYes >jiii "'■ ' No That cannot be, I will not Who I what ? what is \$M This, that Come hither To eat To drink To lie down, to foore* To fleep Numerals* ■ •'-"■." V One ■ ~ ' Iw© Three? Fou* ROUND THE WORLD, <«# Afchie, Five Thampe, Six Arouampe, Seven Toubi Schampe, Eight Tchinchi Schampe, Nine Houampe, Teife Tchinobi kajfma. Eleven Toubi kajfma, Twelve Tohel kajfma, Thirteen Ynebi kajfma,, Fourier* Afchnebi kajfma, |||, Fifteen Thambi. kaffma, Sixteen Arouanibi kajfma, Seventeen Touhi fchamp$ kajfma, ^Eighteen Tchinebi fkhampi kajfma, Nineteen) Houampebi kajfra\q, Tv^oty Houampebikqffma tehi/iee ho, ^hirty ITne houampe touch-ho, P°rl$ Afchne houampe taich ho, ^ 11111 Tou afcbns houampe ta'ichho,. An hundred Thefe iflanders were not obferyed either to dance or fing. But with a fort of mufical e^. ftrument formed of 3 tt^Ik ©^celery or euphgjfc biam, they were heatjql to p^yi*fpra.e plaintive^ wild notes, refemb^ng the: fofter tones of a [ trumpet. [jjgjj| Amidft this recolleipion of thefe novel ap- I pearances, in the varied con^ipn of fecial life, I j^iich^had been prefen,ted to their obfervation Ion the^aftern coafts of Tartary; the FreneJr I navigators advanced on their voyage towards Kamtfchatka. At fix O.'d&ek in the evening of the 5 th of September, they were in fight of the Kamtfeatkan coaft. The mountains which they firft obferved, were thofe of the volcano m ■>i£ LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE northward from St. Peter and S t. Paul. Thd afpe£l of the whole coaft was hideous, NougMi met the eye, but rocks, on which, even in the] beginning of September, the fnows as ye| remained unrhawed. On the day following, thei weather continued clear. Ihey flood to the northward : and, at the bafes of the mountains crowned with eternal ice, faw a ground richly carpeted wftftlively verdure, andfhadedby tufts and thickens of trees. In the evening of the 6th, they reached the entrance of the bay of Avatf-I cha, or St. Peter and St. Paul. The fire in tlnijj Ruffian light-houfe upon the eaftern point of the| bay, being fheltered from the winds only by four boards, could not be kept burning during the night,wOur voyagers, therefore, delayed entering the bay, tilljthe hour of two o'clock in the afternoon of the fpllowing day, which was the 7th of September.* tithe governor came out in his canoe, for tile fpace of five leagues, to meet them. y|; From him they learned, that their arrival had long been expe&ed ; and that tjje| governor-general of all Kamtfchatka had letters tor them, and was expected to arrive within five days, at the fettlement of St. Peter and St. Paul. Scarcely had our navigators come to anchor at the bottom of the bay, when the vicar of Paratounka, with his wife and children, already celebrated as the kind acquaintance of the illufri trious Cook, were feen-jfe come eagerly on hoardJil ROUND THE WORLD. •9\ CH A P. X. YNarrative of the Voyage continued, from the *jth- of September to the J ft of OBober, 1.787'. Tranf- aBions in the Bay ofi Avatfcha : Short Account of Kamtfchatka : Departure upon a Southern Courfe. J[_jRE the French voyagers could enter the Illation at which they intended that the frigates fhould be, during their flay in this harbour ; the \toyon, or native chief of the village, with feveral pthers of its inhabitants, came out to vifit them. Offers of fuch prefents,as thefe good people had |p beftow, and of fuch fervices as they were qualified to" perform, were warmly made by them, fend were accepted by the French navigators. Mufkets were lent, and powder and fhot were lupplied to thofe friendly natives ; and the French obtained from their cares, abundance of lyild fowl, during the whole time of their flay in the harbour. Lieutenant Kaborof, governor of me harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, and com- joriander of a military force of a ferjeant and lortvCoffacks. which were there ftationed; was • ■> . U "'".» S?J#;.a ' tanwearied in his kind attention to the ftran- ters ; nor were his foldiers flow to imitate bis benevolent example. This gentleman inftantly Iropofed to fend a meffenger to Mr. Cafloff Ou- forenin governor-general of Okhotfk and Kamtf- fchatka, who was then at BoJcheretfk, with whatever difpatches M. de la Peyroufe fhould wifh to be f© forwarded. M. de Lefleps, a compan- on of the French voyage, acled as interpreter between the French and the Ruffians ; and was 1 !&&& LA >EYROUSE S VOYAGE now employed to write a RdSian letter, in thfc name of M.'de la Peyroufe, to Mr. Kafloff. M. de la Pevroufe, at the fame time, wrote to the" feme gentleman is, French. The Coffack mef- fenger was inftantly difpatched, as the bearer of thefe letters. In the mean time, our voyagers were entertained with every poflibie attention of honourable hofpitality by. M. Kaborof, aM^ the other inhabitants of St. Peter and St. Pauh Mrs. £aborof,'the lieutenant's lady, was ever ready to" offer them tea, and all fuch other re- frefhments as the country commonly afforded* Nor could Meffrs. de la Peyroufe and de Langle ^avoid accepting, from her generofity, a few* valuable fkins of fables, rein dear, and foxes. Every one, indeed, was ambitious to make them prefents. ||X)ur navigators, however, failed not, amply toCompenfate the kindnefs of their hofts, by prefents adapted to be very ferviceable in. that climate. For the accommodation of the aftfonomers of the voyage, the moft convenient houfe in the village was, at the firft hint of re- iqueft, appropriated, with the greateft ^alacrity, by Mr. Kaborof. Guards and guides were fent to accompany the naturalifts in their excur- fions to explore the interior country. Meffrs.-; Bernizet, Monges, and Receveur, thus accompanied, went to vifit a volcano, the fmoke of which, and fometimes the flame, were feen from the harbour Of Avatfsha. Their guides, believing that, in any attempt to afcend the volcanic mountain, human beaigs muft Unavoidably per* ifh amid the fmoke, would attend the Frenchmen only to the bafe of that mountain ; and it •was under this exprefs condition they fet out. In a foreft, at fix leagues didance froftithe vii* ;RO#ND THE WORLD. *M? flage, was their firft halt for red^i The intermediate territory was irregularly overfpread with birches, pines, and ©ther trees or flsrubs. Ber- ]ries of various forts, and of every different fhade |0f black and red, offered an agreeablerefreAilment to the travellers, on their way. At fun- [fetjthc tent was pitched, and afire kindled with (great quicknefe, and with the utmod attention to prevent the fire from communicating itfelf to the furrounding trees. In the morning, the party again proceeded. The guides, according to [ their agreement, dopped at the foot of the vol- jcanic mountain, at the line beyond which vege- [tatiotf ceafed to afcend. Here they arrived not Ifooner than.three o'clock in the afternoon of the fecond day of their expedition. Having repofed themfelves, duringthe night, the French gentlemen, on the morning of the third day, afcended, alone, towards the volcanic crater. The mountain appeared to be compofed lavas, varying only in denfity or porofky. On the fummit were [found gypfeous dones, with fulphur in crydals, llefs beautiful than thofe ©f the peak ©f Tene- priffe. The fhorls, and other dones, were in general lefs beautiful, than thofe fpecimensof the lame which are found near ancient volcanoes. I Among others which the French naturalifts ■brought back, were fome tolerably good fpeci- raiens of the cryfdlite. The horizon on the fum- Imit of the mountain was not more than a muf- ket-lkot in diamater ; fave that once, it opened and drfcovered to them the bay of Avatfcha, hwith \%e frigates diminifhed to the eye, by diftance, to the fize of fmall canoes. On the edge of the crater, the mercury in the barometer fub- I'fided to nineteen inches, eleven lines, and two R f in 194 LA PEYROUSE'S VOYAGE ff tenths of a line; while in the barometer on borad the frigates, it dood at twenty-feven inches, nine lines, and two tenths of a line. On the fummit of the volcanic mountain, the mercury in the thermometer was two degrees and a half under the freezing point : but at the water- fide, there was a difference of no lefs than twelve degrees from this temperature. To calculate the elevation of the mountain, therefore, from the indications of the barometer, it fhould feem to be more than fifteen hundred toifes above the level of the fea. Fogs unfortunately fruftrated the views of the French naturalifts, who had af- cended fo far to examine the volcanic crater. Returning to their tents below, they found that their guides had already confidered them as perfons who had thrown their lives away ; had faid prayers for the reft of their departed fpirits ; and had drank a part of the brandy which was left under their care. The enftiing night was diftinguifhed by an exceflive fall of fnow, in confequence of which every Idea of more particularly exploring the limits of the volcano, was abandoned ; and the naturalifts, with their guides, returned in all poffible hafte to the village. The cafks were, in the mean time, filled with water ; and the holds of the frigates, with wood, and with hay for the tame animals which our voyagers expecTed here to receive from the governor-general. Of all their own live fiock, they had but one fheep now furviving. XJrr- luckily the Kamptfchatkans have been hkherto extremely negligent in regard to the multiplication of tame cattle among them ; although there is fuch a luxuriance of grafs, in the fouthern part of this peninfula, that, with the care of ROUND THE WORLD. 195 building barns for the reception of hay, and cow- houfes for the lodging of the cattle themfelves, during thf months of winter, cattle might foon be rendered as plentiful here as even in Ireland. But, the chace of the wild animals, and the caj&- • tureof the frlmons, which, in immenfe profu- fion, enter their rivers, appear to them, far eafi- er means of procuring fubfiftence. The Ruffian and Coffack foldiers follow the example of the native Kamtfchatkans. Only the lieutenant, and the fergeant had fmall gardens filled with. turnips and potatoes. * The reft are content with the roots of wild plants, and with the berries, from which they prepare conferve'cl fweetmeMs and agreeable drinks for the ufe of winter, "(Be French voyagers were pleafed to have it in their power to fupply their kind entertainers with a good quantity of the feeds of fome of the moft valuable European pot-herbs. In th&r hunting excurfions through the country, the ftrangers looked eagerly for bears, deer, and argali; but could find neither beads nor birds of game, except a few ducks, or rather teal. The friendly Kamtfchadales, however brought them, during their day, four bears, an elk, a rein-deer, with a large quantity of divers and other wild fowls. Abundance of falmons, herrings, fmall cod, and plaice, were, at all times, and with the utmoft eafe, t© be taken in the bay„ A few barrels were falted for future ufe. M.. Kafloff at length arrived ; bringing with him various fpecimens, particularly of the mineralogy Of the country, for the infpe&ion of the French naturalifts. His ad.hrefs and manners were thofe of a polite, accomplifhed, European gentleman. On the day after hia arrival^ he, S$a8 LA PEYROUSE S V0YAGS with Mr. Schmaleff, commander of the Kamtj^-I ehadales, and the good vicar of Paratouuka, dined with M. de la Peyroufe,©n board La Bouffole. He was received, as he came on board, with a falute of 13 guns. He brought n© lette|sj for our navigators. He greatly regretted his inability to fupply them, before the time of their intended departure, with more than feven head*.) ©f black cattle. On the day following he dined ©n board L'Aftrolabe, where he was received with the fame honours. Pie would accept no payment for the oxen which he brought. On the day following, he entertained them on fhore,, at a ball, to which all the women of the village, both Kamtfehadales and Ruffians, were invited to meet them. The dames, both Kamtfchadale and Ruffian, were dreffed in filk-ftuffs, and wore, in particular, filk handkerchiefs bound round their heads. The Ruffian dances were accompanied with vjpry pleafing tunes. The dances of the Kamtfehadales refembled the writh- ings of perfons differing under convulfions. A fort of mournful cry, with difficulty elicited from thebreafts of the performers, is the only mufic with which thefe dances are accompanied. In the midft of the ball, arrived a carrier from Ochotfk, the bearer of a large trunk, containing packets of letters for the flrangers. The ball was interrupted. The Frenchmen were delighted with the news which they received. M. de 3a Peyroufe, in particular, was pleafed to, find himfelf promoted to the rank of Commodore. Mr. Kafloff eagerly congratulated him upon his new honours; and kindly celebrated the event, by a diicharge of all his artillery. Provisions were furnifhed to cur voyagers during their day ROUND TH'E WORMS*. '97 in the harbour, by the joint exertions of all the* people of the village. A Kamtfchadale fledge,- jjwo royal eagles, and a grea#%umber of fable- ikins, were among the prefents which the gene- rofi^ of Mr. Kafloff would oblige the French commanders to accept. The narrative of Cook's third voyage, was almoft the only thing of value, which his grateful guefts could prevail with him to accept in return for fo many favours. The unfortunate Ivafchkin, mentioned by Cook with refpedful compaffion for diftreffes, was ftill a refident in Kamtfchatka. When a youth under the age of twenty, he happened to utter, In the imprudent gaiety of a convivial party flufhed with liquor, fome expreffioos difrefpect- ful to Elizabeth the then reigning Emprefs *©£ Ruflia. For this trivial indifcretion, all his* fubfequent life was to be configned to ignominy' and wretchednefs^ He was the fon of a noble family, an officer in the guards, very handfome in his face and perfon. His noftrils were flit ;. the fevere corporal punifhment m the knout was InflicTed upon him ; and he was baniihed for Tife, to the diftant extremities of Kamtfchatka. 'After more than fifty yearsf of exile, he obtained, not many years fince, a pardon- from5 the •Emprefs Catharine. But it came too; late. "He chofe rather to continue in: the fnowy defarts in which he had pined out alf*|4^better years, than to; return to a fcene where h#fhould no longer find a friend, and which would'renew :the painful remembrance of his youthful iudif- cretion, and of theunjuft corporal differing arrd^ difgrace with which it had been punfihed; He 'had been educated at Paris ; and dill knew as- much French, as made him not incapable o£: mm - &i i§i IA PEYROUSE?S VQYAGI converfation with the French gentlemen. Yer^t fhame for the ignominy to which he had been unjuftly fubje£led, made him for fome days ajfte&f his arrival with Mr. Kafloff, to hide himfelf from their prefence. Mr. Cafloff, who treated bita^ with a kindnefe thpttftas highly adapted to footh- his mjnd under hiSjforrows, prevailed with hhr,, at lad, to fhew hinifelf to the French. The: obliging attention of 3Vf. de la Peyroufe, rendered him fond of their fociety. He received, with the warmeft gratitude, thofe prefents whi^i they eagerly beftowed, to fofilen, as much as poffible, thehardfhips of his condition. He pointed out, to them the grave of M. de Ja Croyere, a Mem* \S of the Royal Academy of Sciences, whq, on hi$ returnfrom a Ruffian expedition to explore the coaft of America, in which he had engaged as aftronomer and geographer, died here, in the year 174-flt They placed over the grave of their fellow-countryman, an inscription on copper, commemorating his character and his deaths Over the grave of th^ Englifh navigator, Clarke, they likewife erected a fimila* infcription on a plate of copper; as that with which he had been, honoured by his fellow voyagers, was only in- fcribed with a pencil on a piece of wood. Mm Kafloff promjfed to ere£fc, without delay, a monument lefs perifhable,and which fhould be more: worthy of two fuch illuftrious men. M. «fe la-, Croyere had married at Tobolfk ; and his po£* terity ftijjrefide there, in a fituation of comfort and refpecl. Mr. Kafloff wa$familiarly acquainted with all the particulars of the voyages of Behricg, and Tchirikow.. |Thefe formed the fuhje&s of frequent converfation between Him and his French guefts. He theace took oceafi'on to inform them, JlOUNfr THE WORLD. *n t^affce had left Mr. Billings at Okhotfk, building two veffels for the further profecution of the Ruffian difcoveries in the northern feas. But there were difficulties to be furmounted, which would ftill to© long retard the expedition of Billings. Mr. Kafloff was of ^binion,fhat it might have been better for the K|ifftan government, to have fent him out from\fome port of the Baltic. Our navigators were permitted to take a plan ©f the bay of Avatfcha. They prefented to Mr, Kafloff, an elegantly finifhed drawing of it. A drawing of the Oftrog, and a box of acids for. the analyfis of mineral waters, were, alfo, among their,prefents to him. He was not unfkilled iti- the fciences of chemiftryand mineralogy. But his firft attentions were given to the improv&V Hient of thofe arts, which were to furnifh to tjjp; people of his government, the immediate nece||^ fariesof fubfidencev^The foil promifes to produce, if not wheat, at lead abundant crops of rye and barley^Potatoes, but a few years fince; introduced from Irkoutfk, were feen to thrive iurprifingly in feveral fields. Mr. Kofloff had? determined to adopt mild,'^ret vigorous means, for obliging all the inhabitants of this territory, Ruffians, Coffacks, and Kamtfehadales, fp turn [ their, attention to agriculture. A new, mixed race is arifing from the frequent interrnai riage.s . of Ruffians with Kamtfehadales. Thefe are Hktly to prove more laborious than the Ruffians, lefs uncouth in form than the Kamtfehadpes, The fmaJCpox in the year 1769, fwept away threefcpurthsof the latter; reducing themnum* ber to fewer than four thoufand. The new people, who are fpringing up, are likely to^proye ■#f LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE more fufcepible of civilization than their ance£ tors. Already have rhey begun to abandon their(ubterraneous yourts,and to build forthem- felves ifbas, or wooden houfes, in the manner of the Ruffians. Thefe ifbas, referable the cottages of the peafants^i the middle apd the foufh of Europe ; are warmed to an exceflive heat,'by a brick-tlove ; and are divided into three fmall rooms. Thofe who do not yet poffefs ifbas, fpend the winter in balagans, which dand like pigeon-houfes, on the top of pods, twelve or thirteen feet high ; are covered with thatching ; and are entered by ladders which afford no very fecure footing^The Kamtfchadale women already drefs almoft entirely in the planner of the Ruffians. _The Ruffian language prevaSsin ad the Oftrogs. The Ruffian government, although defpotic, Is here adminiftered with the greateft vmildnefs. The taxes which they levy on tMei Kamtfehadales, are fo light, that the produce of even half a day's hunting, Is fufficient to defray the tax for a whole year. The quantity of fpe-s eie in circulation among thefe people, is, in proportion to their numbers, far from inconfidera- ble. Their furs bring a very high priced An ©tter-fkin is worth 3© roubles at the village of St. Peter and St- Paul \, fkins of black-foxes, being extremely rare, are fold for more than 120 roubles, each. The fkins of the white and tne grey fox, vary from 2 to 20 roubles. To open a traffic for thefe fkins, the Enghfh, fn the year 1786, fent a fmall veffel to Kamtfehatka, vth© property of a commercial houfe in Bengal, and commanded by a captain- Peterjg Mr. Kafloff permitted t%e Englifh to folicit periml&on for this commercial intercourfe,.in a memorial which ROUND THE WORE®. £ar he tranfmitted for them to the Court of Peterk burgh. -But the very veffel which brought the propofals, was afterwards wrecked on Copper Ifland ; xand the defign has not been profecuted farther. As to climate and' productions, Kamtfchatka may be prepared 11 the coaft of Labrador, adjacent to the ftreights of Belle-ifle. The.. Kamtfehadales appeared to M. de la Peyroufe, to be the fame race of people with the inhabitants at the Baie de Caftries. In perfonal form, the re- femblanceis confiderable : in mildnefs and probity, there is a.perfect agreement between the twq hordes. The bay of Avatfcha is perhaps the fineft in the world. Its entrance is narrow; its bottom is muddy^ and affords excellent anchoring ground. On the eaftern and on the weftern fide, it has two1 vaft harbours, in which all the fhips of both the French and the British Navy might find fhelter. The rivers of Avatf» cha andParatounka enter the bay, but are barred up with fand-banks, which render them accefli- ble only when the tide is at high water. On a tongue of land curioufly interjected, ftands the village of St. Peter and St. Paul. Behind the village, is a fmall port, in which three or four veflels may very conveniently be at anchor for. the winter. This bafon is, at its entrance, but 25 toifes wide. On its fhore Mr. Kafloff intends to make out the foundations of a new city, Which may, one day, become the capital of Kamtfchatka, and the centre of a great trade with China, Japan, America, and the Phillip- pine Ifles. A number of fmall ftreams, and a fmall lake of frefh water, are near, to fupply t|e new town with this articSfof primary neceffitjf.. LA PEYROUSE S fAGE Already has Mr. Kafloff iffued orders which pro- mife to unite the other Kamtfchadale oftrogs with that at St. Peter and St. Paul. The Kamtfehadales have been converted, without violence or perfecution, to the Greek religion. The prefent vicar of Paratounka is the fon of a Kamtfchadale father by a Ruffian woman. .His manner of praying and teaching has in it an expref- fion of feeling which proves very-engaging to his pariihioners. His wife,daughter,and filler, were the beft dancers among the women. He copi- oufly fprinkled the French gentlemen with holy water, and made them kifs the crofs which was carried by his clerk. His ufual refidence is at paratounka. As he had come to St. Peter and St. Paul, only for the purpofe of vifiting our voyagers ; his refidence there, was in a tent ; and his altar was in the open air.| He is vicar alfo of the Kuriles ifles, which he is wont to vifit annually. The Ruffians number 21 of thefe ifles ; and, rejecting their ancient names, diftinguifhed them as No. i.No. 2. &c. From t&t report of the vicar, the French navigators un- derftood the ifle of Mareckan to be No. 21. of the Ruffians. Of the 21 of the Kuriles ifles which belong to the Ruffians, only four are, according to the account of the vicar of Paratounka, inhabited. Thefe are Nos. 1. 2. 13. 14. Nos. 13. 14. have both the fame inhabitants— who pafs the fummer months on No. 13. the winter months on No. 14. The others are only vifited occafionally, for the fake of hunting the otters and foxes,* which are their ordinary occupants. The currents run very ftrong between thefe ifles, efpecially at the entrancesH^o the different Channels, A canoe, or, as the J$kf» J ROUND THE WORLD. aoj fians name it, baidar, is the only veffel in which the vicar of Paratounka is accuftomed to perform his annual voyages. He believes, that he muft, feveral times., have perifhed, had it not been for the miraculous virtue of his cajfock and his woly water. The four inhabited ifles do not contain, in all, above 140© perfons. The bodies of thofe iflanders are hairy. They preferve their beards long, and live wholly upon the produce ©f their fifhing and hunting. They are humane, hofpitable, and docile. For thefe laft ten years, they have been unable, in confequence of the great diminution of the numbers of their otters, to pay the wonted tribute to the Ruffian government. The fouthern and independent inhabitants of the Kuriles, fometimes bring a few of the commodities of Japan to be exchanged for peltries, with the people of the ifles fubje£t to Ruffia. Before he fhould leave Kamtfchatka, M. de la Peyroufe refolved to difpatch M. de Leffeps> trough the Ruffian dominions, to France, with the journals of thofe parts of his voyages, which lie had already accomplished. The rapid approach of winter warned our voyagers to take their departure from Avatfcha. On the 29th of September, they were ready to fail out of that harbour.#Mr. Kafloff honoured them with a farewell vifit ; and for the laft time dined on board. M. de Laffeps, whofe fociety they could not forego without regret, remained with Mf* Kafloff, to carry the difpatches home to Francis A mutual difcharge of cannon from the frigates, and from the batteries, was amOIHg the laft for- *nalities of the adieus between the French nay|| gators and their kind Ruffian hods. LA PEYROUSE S VOY, The following are the onjj other fads con*- cerning Kamtfchatka, which M. de la Peyroufe has thought fit to infert in the narrative of his voyage. This peninfula was firft difcovered by the Ruffians, in the latter part of. the 17th century. Their firft expedition againft the independence of its inhabitants, took place in the year 1696. In the year 1711, the Kamtfehadales, for the firft time, agreed to own the Ruffian dominion, and to pay a flender tribute of 300 fkins of fables, 200 fkins of red or grey foxes, with a few otter fkins. A military force of about four hundred foldiers, with a fuitable proportion of officers, is permanently maintained in this country, to fupport the authority of the Ruffian government, and to collecl: the revenue. The form of the government of this province has been fev- 3^1 times changed. In the year 1784, Kamtschatka was reduced into the condition of a province dependent on the government of Okhotfk i 4fend Okhotfk itlelf is fubjecT to the jurifdi&ion of the fupreme civil courts of Irkoutfk. The Oftrog, or Kamtfchadale village of Bolcheretfk, was once the capital of Kamtfchatka, and the refidence of a fuperior military officer. A fer- geint of the name Martinof, has now the prin* «ipal command at Balcheretfk: At the Oftrog, or village of St. Peter and St. Paul, Lieutenant Kaborof is the commandant: Major Elleonoff commands at Nijenei-Kamtfchatka, or the Qf* trog of lower Kamtfchatka : Verknei, or upper Kamtfchatka, is under the command of fergeafft Momayeff. Thefe feveral commanders are iade- pendent of one another, and immediately re- fponfible to the governor of Okhotfk, alone. There refides alfo in this country, aa officer wha &OUND THE-WORLD. 205 pSs the title of InfpeBor of^he Kamtfehadales* and whofe duty is, to protect thefe natives from. $he oppreffion of the military government. His rank isfthatof Major in the army. ,From Kamt- fchatka, the Ruffians have undertaken various Adventures of Mercantile navigation, and have ^p$ted out different voyages of difeovery to explore the northern coaft of America. The £^ eutian ifles ; thofe ifles eaftward frorn Kamtfchatka, which are known by the nafne of Oonal- afhka ; and all the adjacent ifles lying fbuthward ||om this' peninfela ; were firft difcovered by feuffian navigators failing from Kamtfchatka. Okhotfk is the jfcat of the mercantile fpirk and capital, by which navigation for the |ur trade ti carried on in thefe feas. The veffels ufually employed in this, navigation, are from 45 to 50 feet in length, have but a fingle maft, are manned by crews of 40 or 50 men each, all of whom are at leaft not lefs expert asjwmters than as fea- '■pien. They depart from Okhotfk in the montj of June, pafs ufually between the point ©f Lo- patkaand No. 1. of the Kuriles, fleer eaft war^ and continue to roam about from ifland to ifland, till they have bought or;proc«red, by their $?wn hunting, a xrumber of 3kihs of otters an$. ^either animals, fufjjcienjifo defray the whole ex* pence of the adventure, and to afford to the Merchants proprietors, a profit of cent, per cent, upon 'that expence. The Captains of fhefe trading veffels, receive. orders frorn the jigoverwor of Okhotfk, to oblige the natives, •m, a"d the ifles which they vilt, to own the dominion of the Ruffian PnvperOr. A revenue aofliger fr*ga^ntly accompanies thefe trading expeditions, to G9|fe£t whatever tribute4he Aba* 4i> 'Mm m hi lo6 LA PEYRCUSE'S VOYAGE alersTan be perfuaded to pay. It was propefed ^$o fend a miflionary, by wbofe endeavours all the unconverted iflanders mffcht be brought to embrace the chriftian faith. Jn the ports %' •vfehich they winter, the trading hunters neceflari- ly found temporary eftabl^hments. But} Ruf- fia has not yet fixed any permanent fettlement eaftward from Kamtfchatka. 'Ktatcha, on the confines between the Chinefe and the Ruffian 4omhacns, is the staple for the fale of the Ruffian fin's to the Chinefe. Furs to the amount of #75©,ocol. Sterling a-} ear, have, till lately, heen bought and fold at that market. In the year 1787, no fewer that 25 veffels, manned vrflb crews of which the whole number might amcuntto leoo men, Kamtfehadales, Ruffians, knd Ceffacks, failed eaftward in queft of furs ; to find which, they would difperfe themfelves 4jtong the American coaft, from Cook's river to Behring's ifland. On their return, thefe trading veffels fometimes enter the bay of Avatfcha, and then, after f©me delay, proceed to Okhotfk. The navigation of the fea of Okhotfk, later in the year than the end of the m©nth of September, is prohibited by a very laudable imperial decree, on account of the winter hurricanes by which it is infefted. The bay of Avatfcha is never 0>«M£| up by*ce,and alwys a$©rds fhelter for Chipping. In Kamtfchatka, the winter is lefs fevere than at Pfcterfburgh ; yet fnow and hoar-froft come on, #iih great feverity, in Kamtfchatka, as early as the 2©thdayof September. Againd the cold, the Ruffian and Kamtchadale inhabitants of the cov ntry, are protected by the thick fkins which form theirclothing, and by th^heat of their habU -Jftt'ions, jjHiich are warmed by doves to ffcetent- ROUND THE WOR&&, tox perature of 28 deg. or even 30 dog, above ther freezing point. The degree of heat which is conftaatly kept up in thefe dwellings,was indeed fuch, that the French navigators could not endure it, without danger of immediate fuffoca- tion. The ufe of the hot bath is familiar to the people, in- this region. In the village of St. Pe- ter and St. Paul, were two public baths. The bath confifts of a very low room, in the middle of which is an oven, conftruCled without cement, and heated in the fame manner as a bakers oven. Its roof is arched. It is furrounded by rows of feats for the bathers, difpofed like: thofe in an amphitheatre. Water, warmed by the fire to a boiling heat, is contmuallyr during the bathing, cad againft the roof, and is thus inceffantly converted into fteam ; in whiclv ftate, it excites the mod prof ufe pevfpiration §§| the bathers on the feats, who are expofed to it> a£lion. Preferring dogs to rein-deer, for the ufe of drawing their fledges ; the Kamtchadales are thus hindered from breedingjiogs, fheep, reindeer, horfes, or oxen ; all which animals their dogs would devour, while they are young. Their draught dogs are fed chiefly witfedfh, and receive their meals, only at the end of the day's- journey.. By inquiring from Mr, Kafloff, the . French voyagers learned, that the Ruffians had indeed feen the north end of the ifland of Tchoka, from the mouth of the river.Amur, but knew nothing more concerning it. TI lifh chart of the bay of Avatfcha, is. good 1 Eng- Bufr two banks, fituate eaft and wed from the entrance into this harbour, may occafiou fome danger ; and thefe are to be avoided, only by keeping two infulatcd rocks on the E. cozftyopm Csl LA PEYROUSE % VOYAGE with the light-houfie point, and by fihutting in with the W. coaft, a large rock on the larboard hand. M. Dagelet's obfervations fix the hbufe of lieutenant Kaborof in 53.deg. 1 min. N. Lat. in 156 deg. 30 min. E. Long. The tides are'very regular. It is high water in the bay, at half ^aft^ o'clock, P. M» The rife, at full and change, is four feet. \W.i l# )> ROUHD- THE WORLD. lOfy CHAP. XI. ' Narrative of the Voyage continued, front the entfi of' September to the 14th of December f 787. Courfe from fhefBay of Avatfcha, Southward to'the Navigators' Ifles : Anchorage at'the Ifite of Maouna'M Manners, of its Inhabitants : Majfacre of M. de Langle, with eleven Per-*' fans of the iipo crews : Ifles of Oyolava and Po'->* la: Inter courfe with their inhabitants :' Cocoas and Traitor Ifles, ||jff HP InII .%- ;J%- < Vlll HEnorth wind, fnifting to weft, as our* voyagers were making their way out of the bay of Avatfcha, rendered-it impofliole for them to furvey, as they had intended, the Kurile ifles, as far as Mareckan. Thev therefore took a courfe !th'tl|eir progrefs, in which they might crofs the-- parallel of 37 deg. 20 min. N. Lat. in the Longitude of 165 deg. a fituation in which geographers have placed a large, rich, and populous - ifle, which the Spaniards are faid t-rhaye difcovered in the-year 1620. At midnight, between the 14th and 15th of October, they reached the latitat)? of 3^7 deg., 20. min. Flights of - ducfos, fo\Vls which never fly far from land. The weather was* clear. Every degree of vigilance was employed, yet no land was to be feem The ifland which was fought, probably lies farther fouthward. In then" progrefs eaftward. from its pretended-pofition} the French navigators ob^ ferved two fmall birds ; and, in the fame- even?; ing, a turtle rifled be fide the fhip.J,; On the day following, a. bjgd, finallcr than an European, wren, perched on the main-top-fall yard-arm |||§ and aaot&8£ flight of ducks palled by. Yet,*n^ ■ J$ Si ■fcF 2IO LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE Per- jifland was, in thefe latitudes, difcovered. • haps M. de la Peyroufe might have been more fuccefsful, if he had chofen rather to run down the parallel of latitude 36 deg. 30 min. A feaman unfortunately fell overboard from the Aftrolabe, and was loft, during this fearch. On the 18th and 19th, figns of the near vicinity of land ftill continued to be obferved. But when they reached 173 deg. of E. Long, all fuch figns difappeared. On the 22d, at no©n, M. de la Feyfoufe, a- bandoning this fearch, diie&ed the frigates to sffumfea foutherly courfe.^Thehilfowsdwelled lb high, and rolled with fo much violence; that* at one tirtie, in the courfe of this day, the jolly* boat though la/hed to the gangway, was wafhed ©ff, and mc*te than twentv tons ©f water were 'mrown on ward. Frequent figns of the vicinity of land, but nothing more, were feen. The Fiench navigators were now, therefore, to look for their next dtfeoveries in that vaft held, of from 13 deg. to 15 deg. from north to fouth, and of 140 deg. from cad to weft ; where the ancient tracks of Quiros, Mendana, Tafman^ &c. are, in every direction, eroded by thofe of modern navigators, and where ifles are fcattered in the ocean, juft as flars in the milky-way of heaven. On the 23d of October, there blew from the fouthward a drong gale, by which the frigates were not a little didurbed in their courfe. Until they reached the 30th parallel of latitude, on theX;2Qth of October, the winds were extremely incondant, and the fea was always very much agifaled. A paftage fo fudden, from the extreme of heat to that of cold, did not fail to affpi^father unfavourably, the health of mod ROUND THE WORL&. 211 of the perfons on board both the frigates. But the diforders thus occafioned, were flight, and were not followed by any few&us ill consequences. On the id of November they found themfelyes in 26 deg. 27 min. N. Lat. in 175, deg. 38 min. E. Long. Curlieus, plovers, and other birds which are not wont to venture, in their flights, to any great diftance from land, were feen hovering, in great numbers, round them. The weather was diftinguifhe&hyafog- -ginefs of the atmofphere, and by frequent and- violent blads of wind. Yet, the horizon clearing up in all quarters, except towards ihe fouth 5 the probability ol'the exiftence of land in * that; quarter, was, hence, naturally fuggeded. Perhaps, ^hey might pafs fome flat rock that efca- "ped their obfervation, and which future navigators may;al*%ngth detect. The indications of land ceafed, as our voyagers continued their progrefs. T3ie fky became at length fo fereney that they could fmd^the longitude, by lunar obfervation. Several doradoes, and two fharks,= whiefiirthey now caught, iofifeed a very agreea<* 4>le regale amidd the falted difhes, to the ufe of which, under a burning fun, they found it not •at all pleafant to be confined. At length they reached the tropic, fairer ikies and a wider horizon now. gratified their Birds, fuch as never wander far from view. 'land, were every day feen by them; yet ftill efought but the waters expanded around. Oft ^he 4th of November, m 23 deg. 40 min. N. *Lat. in 175 deg. 48 ^»v 47 fee. W. Longitude, they caught a golden plover, which was fo fat, ft could not have been long diftant from land. Qn the 5 th they eroded their own ttack from LA PEYHOUSE'sgOYAGE Monterey. QAthe6th they croffed the traclc^f -Ijlaptain Clarke from the Sandwich Iflesto Kamtfchatka. The billows fwelling high, made^their progrefs fufficiently difficult, J ATew flying fifties were the ojUy creatures of the fifh-genus, which, came in their way. On the 9th, they paffed the fouthern point of the sho^l orfiat of Villa. Lobos, according to the pofition Aligned to it in the charts of M. de Fleurieu. § But, appearances led M. de la Peyrpufe to believe, that if £u£h a flipal exid, its fituation mud be farther j weft ward. The fea became graduall||$rnoothec,.j and the winds lefs violent. From the time at which the frigates reached the 10 deg. of N. Latitude, it rained aimed inceilantly during the .day. The hygrometer., had, at no time fince/ their departure from Europe, indicated the pre- fence of a larger proportion of moifture,,in the atmofphere. The noxious opprefiivenefs of the air, joined to the bad quality of their pr©vifio#is, were found to relax the ftrengfch and-impair the health of the. ihips' companies^ To. obviate thefe evils as much as poffible, 3Y£ de la. Peyroufe ordered coffee to be daily ferved out to* the faiiors, madehj^. fhipto be dried and venti*. lated between the decks, and obliged the crews- to keep their linens clean by. ufing rain water to* wafhthem. On the 6th.of November, they caught, eight bonetas ; an agreeable re frefh- ment to the whole companies of the fhips, as well officers ^as-Common rasn^ _ About- the 15 th, when our voyagers, had reached thar 5-. deg.-; ofr N. Lat. the rains aud.ftopms - ceafed, and the motionof the billows became lefs tempeduotis* The weather was now ferene, till after tl^el French navigators had paffed the equator^u tl|#- ROUNSfof THIO^ORLD. 213 2id of November. On the^p3d they caught two fharks which afforded two meals to the crews, and fhot a curlieu, wh&h was very leau^ and very much fatigued. Noddies,man-of-war birds, terns, and tropic-birds, began to hover in j increafing numbers around them, while they advanced into the fouthern hemifphere. In the z deg. of fouthern latitude, the breeze by which I they had been for fome time impelled, deferted them ; and only light airs from N. to W. N. W. fucceededi|| Afraid of being driven to the leeward of the Friendly Ifles, our navigators availed themfelves of thefe airs to gain a little leading. Some ftiarks and fea-birds were, in the mean time, taken, and were ufed at table, as a very agreeable change of food, amid Wie long ufe of falted provifions. A heatoy fea \fetting in fr©m the wed', made their pSOgrefe^ pbout this time, extremely laborious. Their I cordage, rotten by long expofure, Was condantly breaking. Blads of wind, and heavy falls of rain, came On, to incommode their progrefs, tilt rfbe 2d of Dec. at which time they were in 1© deg. 50 min. of fouthern latitude. The winds thenbe- | came gentler, and the fkies more fercne. They I paffed over the pofition in which Bjton has placed thofe which he calls the Ifles of Danger, wfifcovering aught but fea. Next©ay, tfey found [themfelves in 'ii deg. 34 min. 47 fee. S. Lat. in 170 deg. 7 min. £ fee. W. Long, the very parallel in which Qhiros has placed his I#and of jihe Handsome Nation. But the wind was feverfe to their futmteg down that parallel, for jthepurpofe of deferying the ifland. Availing themfelves, therefore, of the weftern breeze^ which nowhtew* they deered foriftie JJaviga- m «■§ LA PEYROUSE S^pOYAGE tors' Ifles, fo named by M, de Bougainville. A$ three in the afternoon of the 6th of December they arrived within fight of the mod eaileni of thefe ifles. They paffed through the channel between athe great and the fmall iiles-which <$$j de Bougainville left on the fouthernt fide of hu track. At noon, in mid-channel, and 4 at a mile's diftance from the fhore>they found theix latitude to be 14 deg. 7 min. S. They had feen dwellings on one fide of the ifle, and a company of Indians, feated in a circl?, under fome cocoa-nut trees. Yet the Indians launched no canoes,, nor did they even follow the courfe ©f the frigates along the fhore. 4 Ihe ifland rifes with an abrupt afcent, to the height of about tw© hundred fathoms al^ve the level of the fea. The houfes are fituate in the pofition ofabout half way up the afcent. Some fmall plantations, as was fuppofed, of^ams, a|JH peared near the hqjifes. At length, §ve canoc.s fet out from the fhore, and, approached the ft#- tion of the fhips.: eleven othefs came fsom a different part of the ifle. Having paddled fey#« raftimes around the fhips, with an air of didruft, they at lad -offered to exchange^ a few cocoa- •nntsfor thofe articles of traffic which the French navigators prefented to them. Theft and fraud were the mod ftriking, features in their condutL After receiving the price, as many of them as could, drove to run off, without delivering the article fold. As no bottom could be found in the channel, even with a line of an hundred fathoms, and at lefs than a mile-s diftance from the land ; they renewed their courfe, in order to double a point, beyond which they had hopes of finding more fafe and iheltered anchorage. But, J ■ROUND THE WORLD. a* there/'the ead wintl raffed a ftrongfutf, and -the [coaft was begirt with reefs of rocks. A dead calm of the winds, accompanied with a prodigious fwelling of the waves, threatened, for jfbme moments, to f«bje£l the two frigates to the S&nger of running foul of one another. A few light airs happily arifing, foon delivered them prom this jedpardy. In, the mean time, an old chieftain approaching, addrcffed them in a long harangue, and held out in his hand a branch of the kava plant. The narratives of former navi- jgaf^rS had taught them to interpret this, as a ifignai of peace.* They pronounced the word, \tayo, meaning friend, and threw to him a few pieces of cloth. The winds at length enabled them to leave the region of calms. The i&in- ders, in their canoes, failed along-fide the frigates. Our voV&jrers could remark, that thefe [Canoes, being liable to be ovevfet every half- jhour, would be ufelefs to any-but perfons, who, pke thefe iflanders, are wont to fwim alaioft as if waiter were their native element. The middle ftature of thefe people appeared to be about' five feet feven inches. Their colour is nearly (MBar to that of the natives of the coaft of Bar- pary. Only two women were obferved among the crowit. Of thefe£ neither was remarkable for beauty or delicacy of features; and the youn-j gerffaid, on her leg, a locking ulcer. Several jef the men had large ulcero, and an apparently incipient kprofy Irpon their. perfons.^N©ne of pem'^Sbifefiled a1]^safing cad of countenance. ttVo among thefe men had their legs, not only covered with ulcers, but even fwollen to the fize |cf tjieir Indies. f'fWiey approached withput cn6 LA pEYROUSE'g 1?#YjA§E fear, although unarmed^ They went away 5 and were fuppofed to have gone, not to return. In the afternoon, however, they again came out. to traffic. A few fowls, a hog, and a turtledove of Angular beauty, were now obtained from them, its body was white ; its head, of a beautiful purple colour; its wings, green ; its breaft, chequered, like the leaves of anemony, with red and black fp©ts. It was tame, and. would eat from the hand and mouth of any per- fon offering to feed it. It could not be long preferved alive; and after its death, its feathers quickly loft all the fplendid beauty of their colours. M. de Langle purchafed from the Indians, two dogs ; which, being killed and roaft- ed for the table, proved excellent eating. Jj| appeared remarkable, that, though capable of workmanfhip fo ingenious, as that which appeared in the ftru6ture of their canoes; thefe! people rejected the hatchets and other inftru- ments of iron, which our voyagers offered in ex-| change for frefh provifions. Glafs-beads were! preferred by them to all the fluffs, and to every fort of' hard-ware, which were offered. Among other things* procured from them, was a wooden J veffel, containing cocoa-nut oil, fhaped Hke out * common earthen pot, and faftiioned in a manner which no European workman could execute, otherwife than *with a turning lathe. Their duffs are of a lefs ingenious texture, than thofe of Eafter Ifland and the Sandwich Ifles. Thur ropes are round and twifted, like our watch-chains : their mats are indeed very fine. As this, ifle afforded little to their wants, the ROUND THE .WORLD. 2iy mm French navigators foon conj^jpto^, their courfe weft ward; and crofling a c-.annel, which they found to be much broader than it is reprefented in the chart of Bougainville, approached the ^jpoaft of the ifland of Maouna. While they were yet at the didance.of three leagues frompjts fhore, two or tji.ree came alongfide the frigates, with hogs andTruit, winch were eagerly ex- lehanged for beads.' Approaching to within ^Ujdf.a league of the (hore; they perceived it to be furrounded with a reef of coral, on which the ^fea broke with great violence. In the creeks," . formed by various projections oiihe coad, there was room, as it feemed, for the reception of their barges and long-boats, .jit the bottom, flood villages,, A multitude of canoes, with [ hogs, cocoatnuts, and other fruits, foon came .out j and, for glafl-toys, furnifhed the frigates with abundance of frefh provifions. Water was feen to fall tn cafcades from the fummitsof * the mountains, and |jp pafs /from the different villages into dip channel. ^Allured by fo many advantages, the French navigators brought their veffels to anchor, at the diftance of a mile from •the fhore, in thirty fathoms depth of water, over a bank of rotted.fhells, with a mry little coral. Sn-t^^fit^tion, however, they were protected i/Only from the eafterly winds ; but the road/lead was, in all other refpeets, fo bad, that the frigates, to the great anxiety of theiranafters, rolled as if they had been in die open fea. Next mprnjng, the two commanders deter- minedSo make the utmoft haftem procuring wliat they wanted from the iu^, and tQ/fet fall in ,4neaftexnPon.l^y the dawnj^ sday, the iflanders came around the frigates, in no fewer than LA PEYROUSE I VOYAGE two hundred canoes laden with frefh provifions. Axes, cloth, and every article of traffic, fave heads, were ftill difdained by them. One part of the crews were employed to manage this tnj|* j fie, and to reprefs the forwardnefs with which the iflanders urged themfelves upOh* the fhips; while the reft filled the boats~with empty cafks, and prepared to go afhore for water. XVIeffirs. de Clonard and Colinet, commanding the boats of La Bouffole, with Meffrs. de Monti and Belle- garde, conducting thofe of L' Aftrolabe, fet out, at five o'clock in the morning, for a bay which was about a league diftant from the ftation of the {hips. M. de la Peyroufe, for purpofes of obfervation and inquiry, followed almoft immediately, In his pinnace; and M. de Langle, in his jolly-boat, made an excurfion to another "hay about a league beyond the watering place. The creek to which the long boats repaired for water, was large and commodious ; all the boats remained afloat, at low water, within a piftol- Uiot of the beach.ft The frefh water was eafily procured, and wa6 excellent in its quality^? A line of foldiers, polled between the beach, and that crowd of natives which gathered round, were eafily able to maintain good order. The natives, men, women, and children, differed themfelves to be perfuaded to fit down under 4 grove of cocoa-trees, at a fmall diftance from the boats. , Pigeons, parrots, and other fowls, hogs, and fruit, were eagerly offered for fale. The women, of whom fome were harfdfome, made offer of their favours to all who had beao*s to pay for them. The women at -lad found little difficulty in breaking through the line of French foldiers. Confufion was beginning'to HOUND THE WORLD. 1W arife. But, fome of the ifl^ders, who feemed to be chiefs, happily interfering, reftorsd order by an alert ufe of their flicks One of the natives, who had fnatched a mallet from the ftern, — -- _ • ' ■ '9% of the boat, and had aimed with it feveral blows at the back and arms of fome of the failors, was, by the command of M. de la Peyroufe, felzed ; and cad to fwim about in the fea. The natives in general, being taller and ftOuter built men than the French, feemed to look upon their vifitors with a certain degree of contempt. To imprefs them with more refpeclfiiL notions of the power that he was able to exert againd them, M. de la Peyroufe purchafed three pigeons, ordered them tobe thrown up in the air, and fhewed the multitude, how eafily they could be brought to the ground by the unfeen impulfe of a bullet fhot from a piftol or a mufket. While the calks were filled with water, M. de la Peyroufe proceeded to vifit a charming village, at the diftance of about two hundred yards from the beach. It flood in the mid ft of a fpacious grove of fruit trees. The houfes o£ the village were arranged in a circle which might be an hundred and fifty toifes in diameter. 'The area which they inclofed, was carpeted with a rich verdure and fhaded by trees. Women, children, and old men, gathered round, the il« luftrious ftranger, and invited him to enter the * houfes. He entered one which appeared as if it were the dwelling houfe of fome chief. Mats ©f extraordinary finenefs and freihnefs, were fprcad on the floor : The floor itfelf wascompo- fed of fmall pebbles, and raifed about.two feet above the common level of the ground. Among other articles of furniture, M. de la Peyronie te- q$o LA PfcYROUSE S" VOYAGE marked, with furprize, a cabinet of litttl&wdfE^ fuch as could not have been more elegantly executed at Paris. The building terminated in an cllipfis, the curve of which could not have been more handfomely fafhioned under the diteclicns of any European architect. A rOw of pillars, at equal ditlances of five feet from one another, formed a complete colonade round the whole. The pillars were formed of the trunks of trees, handfomely wrought: And between them hung mats, the cords of which were adapted to move them up and down, at pleafure. The roof of the houfe was covered with leaves of the cocoa- palm-tree. The foil of thi£ ifle is fertile without culture ; and the climate fuch as to render clothing little neceffary. The bread-fruit, the cocoa-nut, the banana, the guava, and the orange tree, grow here fpontanecufly, antfniil th$ greateft abundance. Dogs, h'ogs, and fowls,, fed upon the fuperfluous plenty of thefe fruits, afford a fuffi- cient variety of rich and delicate aniffcal-food. The wants of thefe people are confequently few. Iron, and inftruments of direct utility, they, therefore, difdained ; and accepted onljn beads, obiecls of fanciful decoration.?? More than two hundred wood-pigeons, with a number of beautiful parroquets and turtle-doves, were among the animals obtained from them. Thefe fowls were all tame, and fhewed thefe iflanders to have made a greater progrefs than the inhabitants of the Sandwich Ifles, in the do- meftication of the winged part of the creation. Had it not been for the ferocious expreflioh in their countenances, and the fears on their bodies, it would have been natural to cdnclude, that a ROUND TK&WORLD. 21% people, feafed amidft external c|tcumftances- fo* propitious, muft live in;$erfe£t innoce nee, felicity, and beneficence^ During this vifit, fome trivial quarrel^ arofe among individuals of the French and individuals from among the iflanders ^but^rio general disagreement vJlook place. An iflander had attempted to fnatch awayj&e fabre of M. de Mou- neron ;. but, having pulled off, unwittingly, the fcabbard, ran away, affrighted, at fight of the naked blade. Others threw (tones at M. Rol- lin, the furgeon-iuajor to the expedition^ A= general turbulence,- inhofpitality of fpirit, and infubordination to their chiefs, were plainly feen? to be very diftihguilFting features in the character of^thefe people. But,-the prudence and patience of the French avoided all extremities. About noon, the Frenchmen left the ifle and returned in their boats, on board the frigates. Thefe were furrouiided withcanoes, Seven or eight of the iflanders were on the quarter-deck * of La Bouffole. And thefe people were behav- sjup^g here with a boldnefs, a rudenefs, and atuTjpn bulence, exceedingly troubjefome* One of the-' men on the quarter-deck^ was pointed out as a chief. His authority had contributed already, fomewhat to reftrain the petulance of the re&. Some prefents were offered to hinp1^ and the power of the French fire-arms was exhibited be*. fore him Jput without excising his admirationyor impreffing him with awe. , MSBS^P! Ordera.wereSnow %iven for the frigates to weigh anchor and get under fail. But, M. de Langle, having been greatly charmed with the fcene at which he had landed ; defired, with great earaeitnefg; that the frigates fhould ftemd' t%% LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE ' ffanMJott at a league's diftance from the fhore, ^till h$*might with a paity, revifit that bay, and procure an additional quantity of frefh water from the limpid dreams which poured into it. M. de Langle had a veiy drong partiality for 'water fredi from theftteam or fountain, as being "much more falutary to thofe who mould ufe it, than water which had been long preferved in barrels Oh board a fhipv|£ Provifio'ns, too, were sfheVe to be obtained in an abundance in which "rrie'y could "fearcely be expe&ed, elfe^vhere. Five hundred hogs, a great number of fowls, a large quantity of fruit, had been procured at the trivial price of a few glafs-beads. With great relevance, on ae'count of the diforderly con- $$r& of the iflanders, M. de fe Peyroufe agreed to await trH M. de Langle fhould acccm|$tfh hSj purpofe. During the night, the two frigates hovered under fail, at a fmall drftance from the {boreof the ifle- At day-break, there fucceeded a calm, after adotmyand uncertain night. About nine o'clock, a gentle breeze from the N. W. enabled them to advance the frigates again nearly to the ifle. At eleven, they were ^tliin a league of it. Two boats from La Botdfele,'wk&f Ufe hargjSiand long-boat of L'Adrolabe, Were, 'dphoutoejay, fent afhore, under the command of M. de Langle, and having on board MeiSrs. l!e Lamanon, CoHnet, Vaujuas, le Gobien, dt ha JftattMcre, Lavaux, Receveur, with a number of fuch of the common rifeh out of both €*ews, as hrttd begun to be adeemed with the f^urvy, amounting, in all, to fixty-one perfeni^ Six fwSels were mourned upon.^ne longboats 1 and t^e men were armed with ctrtlaSes and mufkeikv Gifet numbers of canoes, in the ROUND THE-WORLD. 223 tnean time, came around the fhips for the fake of traffic; and the people wore, in their coun--| tenances- and manners, an air of gaiety and com- hdence, which tended to remove every fuf|#. xi©n of hodilities to be offered fr6m them. At a quarter after one o'clock, the boats reached the fhore. What had been fuppofed a capacious bay, was found to be but a creek full of Coral rocks, and prefenting noaccefllble paffage, feve a winding channel of 25 feet in width. Within that channel the boats had but three feet of water. The long-boats^ran a-ground. The barges-were kept a-float, by being hauled to a confiderable didance from the beach. The tide Was now at ebb^^lt had been in flood, when this fcene was, on the preceding day, examined hy M. de Langle. flDifappointed in regard to the date of thebay, M. de Langle would havereturn« ed immediately to the creek, without accompliih- "ftig his fitd j^frpofe, had it not been for thejgen- tlenefs and order which appeared to didinguifti the natives, in the offers which they now made, to trade with the Frenchmen, as well fropb: the boats as at the fhipsJfrHe fent the water-cafks t>n: fhore. The foldiers were arranged in two lines, to protect an.avenue ofJfcaffagebetween •the watering-place and thfe fea-beach. Water Was, without delay taken in ; and thMcafks be-} ihg filled, were feccefsfully conveyed on boardf the boats." But, in the mean time, tn% nam* bersof the natives who furrounded the French- linen at their tafk, wete prodigioufly augmenteoy Petty thefts; attempts to %ize, by open force,, what they coOld not fecretly flealy with various a£ls Of wanton infolence aifd mifehief^began to befpeak the content: of t&e nativef* as WtH for the ftrength amfttumbers 01 the French- , LA. PEYROUSE S VOYAJG^ men, as fcr%the^laws of benevolence and hofpv taiity. . A brifk traffic ftill went on ; and the favours of the women were, with enough of wanJ- ton eagernefs, both offered and accepted. The iflanders iufenfibly proceeded, on the fhore, to affail the ftrangers with fhowers of ftones ; while others of them, entering the water, attempted to feize and pillage - the boats. To fbo&ie the infolence and rapacity of the natives, a few beads were diftributed to fome few of them, who appeared to poffefs a fuperior authority among the reft. Thofe who were overlooked in the diftribution, became, for this, fo much the M. de Langle was on board more outrageous. his boat,;: and the fire-arms were ready to be difchargedu But, reluctant to proceed to extremities, which fhould ©ecafion an efTufion of b'ood ; he declined the ufe of the fire-arms, till, at Ieaft, the whole party fhouid have come on; board the boats. The natives faw there all en*- ter their boats, without offering any fatal violence. i^JBut when they faw the boats ffioved off from the beach, and were aware, that the ftrangers, with ail their beads hadalmoft efcaped un- pillaged, and without having-tranfacled, at this time, any confiderable traffic; their- rapacity and rage were then raifed to the utmoft height* hey.threw ftones, rufhed in great numbers into the water to flay the boats, and made aferiw ©us anddefperate hoftile attack upon the French failoriri Orders were given t© oppofe them with a difcharge of mufquetry, and, at the fame- time, to ufe the utmoft expedition in removing the boats beyond their reach". A few of the iflanders fell. But the prodigious luperlority of- their numbers ;., their nearnefs to the boats f". fheir great drength. and dexterity in hurling; ROUND THE WOfLD. 225 Ithbfe huge ftones, which they employed as their mifule weapons ; together with the furprize and confufion of the French ; made it impoffible for thefe to refill the onfet of the inhofpitr.ble iflanders, without differing themfelves in the fkir- mifh. M. de Langle, with the mafter of arms, and the carpenter belonging to his fhip, were beaten down from the bow of the long-boat in which they dood ; and were the fird who fell. M. de Langle perifhed under the fury of the affail ants ; the two who fell with him, were differed to efcapc. The iflanders, in a few" minutes,, made themfelves mafters of the two boats which were the neared to the beach. Eleven others of the boats' crews perifhed with M. de Langle. Among thefe was the unfortunate M. de Lamanon, naturalift to the expedition. While the iflanders bufied themfelves in plundering the long-boats, which they had feized ; the furviv- itfg Frenchmen threw overboard the water cafks which had been conveyed into the two barges; and all found means to efeape, although the long-boats were loft. Having in vain torn up the feats of the long-boats, in fearch of the riches which they fuppofed to be hidden in them j the iflanders turned themfelves to attack the barges, when they faw them move off with difficulty. A difcharge of fire-arms killed"a few of them ; and, ere the reft could approach, the barges were beyond the reach of their purfuit. It was five o'clock in the evening when the fur- vivors came on board the fhips, with news of the difafter which had cut off their companions. Numbers of the natives were at that time around the fhips in canoes ; and it was not without extreme difficulty that M. de la Peyroufe could. ;«;) 2x l6 LA PEYRCUSE'S VOYAGE . redrain the foldiers and failors, on board t]g£| frigates, from taking fudden vengeance for the murder of their flaughtered comrades, by the de^ j druction of all the canoes around them. One of the iflanders, who happened to be on the quarter deck, wasarreded, and, for a time, detained in irOns, but was differed, next day, to make his efcape, by leaping overbear d,|b A mid ft theirin- dignation for the fate of their companions, M. de la Peyroufe-, with his officers, and the whole fhips' companies, would willingly have inflicted fignal vengeance on the perfidious iflanders ; but it was impoffible to ancror within a gun fhot's diftance from the village; and when all circumftauces had been duly confidered, it was. thought more prudent to forego the defired revenge, than to incur new inconvenience or danger. On the following day fome ©f the iflanders had even the audacity to venture out, toward^ the fhips, in their canoes, with hogs, pigeons, and cocoa-nuts for barter. When their offers of this traffic were rejected, they then accofted the French with fportive raillery. With difficulty, la Peyroufe fuppreffed his indignation, and would not fuffer them to be fired upon.' Other canoes came out, feemingly with hoftile purpofe to join them, A fhot then fired from a blunderbuls, taught them to refpect the rage of the French fire-arms. 'Andthev all fled, with ,4 ■' one accord to the fhore. Befide thofe of the French who had lod their lives in the affray with the iflanders, twenty others were wounded. Affliction of the deeped and mod poignant character, reigned, for fome time, on board the frigates. At laft, on the 14th, they fleered 1 ROUND TfcE WORLD. 227 aw&y from the fatal, inhofpitable ftiores of Maou- na. The perfons whom they had here loft, were Meffrs. jqe Langle, poft-captain and commander A Yves Humeri, John Redelleg, Francis Ferret, Laurence Robin, and a Chinefe fea- man ; all belonging to L'Aftrolabe. [ Meffrs. De Lamanon, naturalid ; Peter Ta- |jp, gunner ; Andrew Roth and jofeph Ravs, quarter-gunners, from La Bouffole. On the 14th of December, departing from the fatal coaft of Maouna, the French navigators took their courfe acrofs a channel five leagues in widenefs, towards the fpacious and fertile ifle of Oyolava. At the diftance of three leagues from its N. E. point, they were furrounded by a great multitude of Oyolavan canoes, which were laden, for barter, with bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, fugar-canes, pigeons, hogs, &e. In drefs, features, and talluefs of dature, the people of Oyolava fo nearly refembled thofe of Maouna, that, at fight of them, the indignation of the French failors for the fate of their murdered companions was awakened anew. M. de la Peyroufe, however, quieted thofe angry emotions which had almoft prompted his people to hoftilities, at the firft fight of the Oyolavans. A commerce of exchange commenced, and was carried on with great brifknefs, and^with mutual fatisfa&Ion, between the French and the iflanders." In the courfe of it, the French were more careful than they had hitherto been, to re- prefs, by threats, and even by blows, every attempt at theft, fraud, or violence, on the part of the natives: and this conduct was attended with .good effects. In the afternoon, the frig- LA PEYROUSE'S VOYAGE ates apprrjtacbe^f.a part of the ifle, which prefent- ed the largeft village, perhaps, that is to be feen in all the iflands of the South Sea. It coafifts of houfes irregularly fcattered over a very ex*- . tenfive and gently inclining plain ; and afcend- ing even upwards to the very fummit of the mountain, which rifes beyond the plain, and retires inwards to the middle of the ifle. The fmoke hovering over the village, feemed as if it rofe from feme great city. The people, who cameoutinthe canoes, wereentirely unacquainted with iron. A fingle bead was to them, preferable to a nail fix inches long, or to an hatchet.. Some of them had agreeable features. Their hair was bound up with a fort of green ribband* and adorned with flowers. Their form was handfome; and every thing in their whole af- ' pect befpoke fweetnefs of temper, and gen- tlenefs of manners. The billows broke all around the beach with a violence.which made it *not fafely acceflible on the north-fide of the ifle. In the dufk of the evening, the canoes had retired ; and the French navigators faifcd onwaTd% "ftill at no great diftance from the coaft of the ifle. A dead calm prevailed during the next day, wijjh frequent flafhes of lightning, which were followed by thunders and rains. It feemed probable, that, on this day, the people of Otpi(K va had received notice of the late unhappy events at Maouna. On the 17th, when the frigates came over-againd the ifland of Pqla, no canoes came out te v^'fit them : and from this, it was concluded, that the people of Pola had Hkewife been informed of the quarrel af Maouna, and were afraid of differing from the refentment of the Frenefy.ifthey fhoiild put themfelves within 'KOttKD THE WORLD. o^ slhefr. power. Pol a is a beautiful ifle, fomewhat $ftrui|ler than Oyolava, from which ft is fepara- lated by.a channel, only four leagues in widenefs. ^tnthe channel are two iflets.; one of which is -covered with wood, and perhaps occupied by ||fome inhabitants. The north coaft of Pola is inacceffible to dripping : But after doubling its wef- -tern point, $fce mariner will enter a fmooth fra, s^btch mgy-probably afford excellent road-fteads. pPhefe ifles are ten in number; Opoun, Leone, ^anfoue,:Maouna, Oyolava, Caluafle, Pola, Shi- t^ta, Offamo, and Overa. The relative bearings, -of thefe different ifles, the French navigators could not from the information of the natives, •Tatisfaclorily afcertain. Opoun, the moft fouth- *erly, is in 14 deg. 7 min. S. Lat. in 171 deg. 27 min. 7 fee. W. Long. It has been fuppofed that, ^thefe are -the fame ifles which* were difcovered by Roggetven, in the year 1721, and by him denominated Beauman's Iflands. But every cir- icumdance led M. de la Peyroufe, and his companions, to regard this fuppofition as groundlefs, tand to confider them as ifles unknown to European navigators, tillthe voyage of Bougainville. The natives of thefe ifles are a remarkably tall,robuft, and well-proportioned race of men. In comparifon with the French navigators, they feemed to be, juft fuch as Danifh horfes are, in leomparifan wifii thofe of France They are naked ; but have the body painted or tattooed in a manner that gives mem the appearance of having clothes. On their loins they bind a girdle entwined of fea-weeds. They wear the hair long, and twilled round the head. They are -exceedingly ferocious and quarrelfome. The forms of the women are, tall, flendet| zn& not sjo LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE tingraceful. But, among all whom the French navigators faw, there was not more than three whom they could confider as being truly beautiful and handfome^ifTheir manners are, in the higheft and moft difgufting degree, wanton and Immodeft. The three beauties, who attracted the notice of the ftrangers, were readily profti- tuted to their luft. Of a bafaltic flone, thefe people form tools for working in wood, whUlb, even in comparifon with the European inftruments of iron, are far from contemptible. Some wooden difhes were obtained from them, in exchange for glafs-beads, the polifhing of which was not at all lefs perfect, than if it had been effe&ed with an European turning-loom. The mats, and fome paper-fluffs, which thefe people manufacture, are exceedingly beautiful, and of a very ingenious texture. Their language appears to be a particular dialect: of that which is fpoken in the Society and in the Friendly Ifles. A perfon from the province of Tagayan, in the north of the ifland of Luconia, underftood, and explained to the French navigators, in whofe fervice he was, moft of the words which he had heard fpoken at the Navigators' Ifles. From this fa61, it fhould feem that thefe people are, by defcent, Malays: and the language which they fpeak, the Malayan. Among from fifteen to eighteen hundred, whom the French voyagers faw, to the number of about thirty feemed* to be chiefs. Thefe endeavoured to exercife a fort of authori-' | ty, but were very icarelefsly obeyed. They have been vety properly named by M. de Bougainville, Navigators. They fcarcely ever perform any change of place, otherwife than by water, arid in their canoes. Their villages are fit*;. ROUND THE WORLD. 2U uatedjjin creeks, clofe on the fhore, And they have no internal roads from*one to another of them. All of thefe ifles, which the French voyagers vifited, were covered, to the very tops of the interior hills, with fruit-trees. Wood-pi- geons, turtle-doves, parraquets, blackbirds, par- Bridges, of very beautiful and Angular varieties, were very numerous among thefe woods. About .the houfes were great numbers of tame wood- pigeons. Their canoes have outriggers, and are generally of .a fize incapable to contain more than five or fix perfons; thoughfome indeed wilt, admit to the number of fourteen. Their courfe is not exceedingly rapid; under-fail, not more than feven, knots an hour; rowing, was fuch, that they could not keep way with the French frigate, failing at the rate of only four miles an hour. Sometimes two of their canoes are joined into one, by means of a tranfverfe piece of wood, in which is put a ftep to receive a mail. The fails are of matting, extended by a fprit. The fweep-- net, and the hook and line, are their only inftru- ments for fifhing. Their baits are of mother-of- pearl and of white fhells, very fkilfully wrought.. The baits are in the form of a flying fifh, and have a hook of tortoife-fhell attached to them, which is of fuflicient drength to drag out a tunny, boneta, or dorado. Thefe ifles feem to be all of volcanic origin. On the beach appeared, no ftones, but pieces of lava,. bafaltes, or cd?al. la all the creeks, the fides are ufually filled up with coral, which leaves in the middle juft a narrow channel, fuflicient to admit the canoes- to pafs-and repafs.. Thefe canoes are fo light,, as to be eafily borne, one on the fhoulders o£- ;fcy/omen.- Nor ar& they ufually left in the wa-- LA - PEYROUSE S OTYA& A-Jfc'Dt« ^r, but deposed uudef the fhade of trees sea the dwellings. NoTituatiOSscan^be:more agree— able than thofe of the villages in thefe ifles. r£ty& Eoufes ftand on thebinks of ftreamlets defcend- ing from the hills, under the made of fruit-tree^- by the fides of path-ways leading into the interior parts of the ifles. Each houfe is fufficiently* fpaciousto lodge even feveral families. They?. have moveable doors or windows, which are let. down to exclude the fun, and pulled up, on the ©ppofite fide, to admit the frefh breezes. Hogs,, $ogs, fowls, birds, and fifties, furnifh a rich abundance.of animal food to the inhabitants of thefe ifles. The cocoa, the guava, the banana- tree, withanother tree which bears a chefnut- ]ike fruit,, that is roafted for eating, fupply an* abundance of whplefome fruits, ougar-cafces,^ . of an inferior quality, grow fpontaneoufly en the^ banks of the rivers. In Maouna, Meflrr. Mar-' tinierc and ColJignon made a fhort botanical ex- curfion. But the natives exacted a glafs-bead for every plant they gathered; and, even under4 this condition, would ^hardly permit them te* bring off what they collected, in fafety. Clubs, -arrow-like lances, and ftones which they were ikiiled to throw with great force and dexterity, were the cftenfive weapons of thefe people. The population of thefe ifles is probably very confiderable in proportion to their extent. Maouna, Pola, and Oyolava, are certainly among* the mod beautiful of all the ifles of the Southern Ocean. M. de la Peyroufe would gladly have! gone afhore oa Pola. But, after fuch experience of the inhospitable temper of the natives, it would be imprudent to fend any part of the crews afhore, unarmed; and fo drong were dill KOUND THE WORliTfc jtfie refentmentsof the failors, that going on> land with arms in their hands, they hardly could4 have refrained from employing thefe againft the iflanders, even without new provocation. For thisreafon M. de la Peyroufe rej&rfved not-again* to eaft anchor, till he fhould reach Botany Bay. After failing along the weftern coaft of Pola,j the French navigators loft fight of land. They endeavoured to fail in a S. S. E. dire&ion. An* -E. S. E. wind, at firft, oppofed their progfefsv* Its fh if ting, however, foon differed them to make way agreeably to their /wifhes. On the 20 th they came within, fight of a round ifle, pre-- 'cifely S. from Oyolava, and about forty leagues diftant from, it* On the day following, they arrived within two leagues of its coaft^Two* ;other ifles were now alfo defcried, to the fouth-- ward ; w^ichplainly appeared to be the Cocoa- 'and Traitor Iflands of Schouten^ Cocoa-Ifland towers up to a great elevation, in the^rm of a fugar-loaf. It is nearly a league in diameter; and trees cover it up to; the very fummit. A channel, of about three leagues in breadth, intervenes between this;and Traitor's Ifle:which is low and flat, with only one hill of moderate height in the middle^ • A channel, about an hmpM^red and fifty fathoms wide at its mouth, in- terfe£ls thisifle into twQ$£f|gts, fo that it is pro- - perly two ifles,: not one, as has been hitherto fancied. The weather was unfavourable;. and- no canoe came out immediately from Traitor's Ifland. The frigates hovered near during the evening: at eight o'clock in the morning, they approached to within two miles of the bottom of* a.fandy bay. About twenty canoes foon left the- fhore, and approached the frigates. They) IX z~ ■ LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE were laden for barter, with excellent cocoa-nuts^: and with a few bananas and yams. One brought a hog, with a few fowls. The people appeared plainly to hafve had no previous acquaintance with Europeans. They approached without | fear or fufpicion, and readily excK&6ged their provifions for beads, nails, and different piecesjp of iron. They had every one two joints cut off& from the little finger of the left-hand. In oth-1 er refpedts, their afpedt and manners differed little from thofe of the people of the Navigators' IflevJI Their ftature was however, lower, and their form lefs robuft. The French navi«^i gators, in their intercourfef vHtarthefe Indians, thought proper to act with more of fpirit and vigour than they had hitherto fhown. They' j repreffed every act of theft or injtfftlce, would ■ not fuffer their vf&rors t© come on board, and fhewfed what power their arms gave them, to*ji punifh every a£t of hoftljhy or fraudiff On the 23d, at noon, while they were trafficking; with thefe Indians, a fudden blaft from the W. S.rf| W. difperfed the canoes, overturning many ©f^ them, but without ©ccafioning any ferious mif- chief to thofe who failed in them, Although , the weather wa's thus i&*fav©0rafc4e, yet the French voyagers failed not to make .the circuit ; of the ifle, and to furvey aM ife poirifi&# At tobi** in the afterno©i^ they Viewed their progrefs,- fleering S. S* E. ©f purpofe to examine fuch of the Friendly Ifles t© the north of Inamooka, as had been left unexplored by Cook. w r IHS^D THE W0RL8. CH A P. XII. ay Narrative of the Voydge continued, from the 2g.d of December 17 8 7, to the end of January 1788. Courfe from the Navigators?>. Ifles to Botany- Bay. Account of the Ifland of Vavao. . Traffic with the people of Tongataboo. DefcripHon of. Norfolk Ifland, &c.^M STORMY night fucceeding ,the day of !their departure from Traitor® Ifland, retarded iand endangered their progrefs^ Such of the crew a§ had begun. toTeel an incipient fcurvy^ jnow fuffeted exceedingly from the moifture in the atmoiphere^ A man of the name of David, the gun-room cook, died of a fcorbutic dropfy, MolaiTes and fpruce-beer, are confidered as the mod efficacious preferyative againd fcuryy^Klii Ithefe hot climates, the companies continued to drihk thefe articles at the rate of a bottle a-day jto.ea'ch perfoh, with half a point of wine, and a fmall glafs of brandy, greatly diluted with water, The hogs obtained<from .Ifabuna, proved but a tranfient refoyrce. They could neither be falted nor preferved alive**. On this account, frefh ipork was, for a while, ferved out twice a day, I to the crews. And, while this taded, ail the jfwellirigs of the legs* and the other fymptoms cf fcurvy, began to difappear.\ The N". N. W. I winds followed them beyond the Friendly Ifles; ! Were always accompanied with rain ; and blew ! as hard as the weflern gales on the coad of Brit- any. On the 27th of December, they difcovered j the ifland of Vavao. Its wedern point bore I precifely W. at noon, when their latitude was •Oft* JBA PEYROUSE S VOYAOjB" u8 deg. 34 min.- Its exifteuce. was known to Captain Cook only from the report of the people of the other Friendly Ifles. It is almod equal in extent to Tongataboo ; and being of loftier elevation, is more copioufly fupplied with frefh water. This ifle had been before feen by the Spani^;Captain Don Antonio Maurelle. It.is furrounded by a number of other ifles, by which; the number of Friendly Ifles, originally made known by the Englifh, is almoft-doubled. Maurelle made this difcoveryin the courfe of a voyage from Manilla to Chili, in which he was induced to enter thefe latitudes in - fearch of wef- terly winds. He called Vavao, with its fur- ■ 4 * rounding iflets, the Iflands of Majorca; to: Happaee, and the iflets lying around it, he gave, the name of the Iflands of Galves. The namesj employed by the natives themfelves, have been, preferve^in the map of the French navigators.* On the..27 th the French frigates were at a fmall diftance W.N. W. from Vavao. During the* night, theytadvanced fo far, that, on the morning, they could fee the Magura of Maurelle, at* the didance of twelve or fifteen leagues eaft-: ward. - Towards noon, on the fame day, they? were at the entrance of that part of Vavao im which Maurelle. had anchored. It is formed-by. finall ifles, having, between them narrow, but- very deep paffages,,and affording, entire flielter againft the winds blowing from the offing. Many circumftances invited our voyagers to come to an anchor here ; but reflection upon the dan-- gers to which they might be expofed, from'the., rapacity of the natives, determined them-againd it. No ; canoes came from, the ifle to traffic* Theweather was threatening^, and already flor- EO^ND THE WORLD. zrn toy. Our navigators, therefore, bore away for [theifland of Latte, at twenty leagues diftance, The night which enfued, was dreadful with jpitchy darknefs and ftorms. When day return- led, the ftorms were rather heightened than al* [hyed. The frigates were now fleered to within two leagues of the ifland of Latte. But here* before any canoe could come out, the fails were fo much'overfpread by a blaft, that our navigators were compelled to fteer away for the ifles of |Kao and Toofoa. They pafled near thefe ifles| hut were, at firft, prevented by the milt from [difcovering them. At five o'clock in the evening, the weather became fair ; and Kao was idifcerned rifing with a lofty conical elevation. Through the night, our navigators continued to jhover near thefe ifles. At fun-rife, on the fol-- jlowing morning, both Kao and Toofoa were •clearly feen. Paling within half a league of Toofoa, the French voyagers- perceived it to be uninhabited. It is prectpitoufly mountainous 5- jabout fouy leagues in circumference ; and" wooded op to its'fummit. It is probable that the people of Tongataboo, and the other Friendly |IAes, may often refort hither in the dimmer, to cut down wood, and conftru£t their canoes; fince none but fruit-bearing trees grow upon the Mies which they inhabit, As our voyagers paffed near the fhore of this ifle, they could dif- eovet feveral Aides or inclined planes, deftined for the purpofe of admitting the trees cut above, to roll eafily down the declivity of the fea fhore. They next continued their courfe towards the two fmall ifles of Hoonga*tonga and Hooriga- Happaee. Looking back upon Kao and Toofoa, Jhefe ifles feemed* to them »s united, fo that Kao* LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE formed the Tummit of Toofoa. Kao is about I three times as high as Toofoa ; its fummit may feem the peak of a volcano :^ its bafe is apparently lefs than two miles in diameter. Towards noon they arrived within fight of the two ifles of Hoonga-tonga and Koonga-happee. Near to thefe is a very dangerous reef of rocks,, two leagues in extent, in direction, nearly N. by W, and S. by E. having its northern point five leagues N. from Hoooga-happaee ; its fouthern point three leagues N. from Hoonga-tonga;. forming, with the two ifles, a ftreight three leagues broad, and not laid down in the charts of any former navigators. Its breakers were feen,: by the French voyagers, to rife mountain-high, as they failed along at a league's diftance to the weftward. Hoonga-tonga and Honga-happeet are uninhabitable rocks, fo high as to be vifible at fifteen leagues diftance. Their form changesr every moment to the view, as you advance towards, or retire from them. They feemed to be, each, lefs than half a league in circumference. A channel, a league broad, and in the direction of E. N. I£. and W. S. W. divides them from one another. They lie ten leagues N. from the few ifle of Tongataboo. This ifle was feen by our navigators on the 3.1ft of December. Only the tops of its trees were at firft vifible ; and thefe appeared, as if they had their roots in the waters-. As they approached, the land appeared to* rife-for about two fathoms above the level of the. fea. With a northerly wind, the frigates deer- ed for the fouthern coaft of this ifle. 'ihey found it to be approachable, without danger, to- the diftance of only three naufket-fhols. Clofe: qn the fhore the fea was feen to.br.eak wi&gmafe M>UtiD THE WORLD. 2 39 pdjf* Beautiful orchards, and trees fkirtirig pefis of charming verdure, appeared over the (whole interior furface of the ifle. Not a fingle pill was t© be feen ; all was flat, as the furface pf the fea in a calm. The huts of the natives [ivere fcattered over the fields, not collected in- © viffages. Seven or eight canoes were foon aunched out from the ifle, and bent their courfe ©wards the fhips. But thev were ill naviga- fed ; and, though the water was fmooth, could n come clofe to the frigates. JlAt the diftance If eight or ten fathoms, tlie iflanders leaped jverboard from their canoes, and fwam to the trench fhips. In their hands they held cocoa- juts, which they very honeftly gave in exchange br hatchets, nails, and other bits of iron. Mu- hal confidence, to a very high degree, foon |>ok place between thefe iflanders and the French byagers. A young man among the former, Lying, that-he was the (on of Feonou, obtained ji tHis account, various prefents, with which |; appeared to be exceedingly gratified. He :ged the ftrangers to come to an anchor at the ore of the ifle ; promifing that they fhould ere obtain provifions in great abundance, jhefe iflanders, in general, were noify, but [ithout that ferocity which marked the manors of the natives of the Navigators' Ifles. bey are inferior, alfo, in fize and vigour, to |e people of the Navigators' Ifles. They ap- lared to poflefs no arms but patow patows : d thefe were fe fmall, that feveral of them rich the Frenchmen bought, weighed not pre than one third of the weight of a patow Uow from Maouna. Thefe people, as well as pfe of Cocoa and Traitor Ifles, are wont to off two joints from the little finger, in token 4B2L3 LA PEYRmJ&SE^S^VDYAGfE of forrow for the lofs of near relations, Altaic intercourfe between the Frenchmen and the people of Tongataboo was confined to ia£N6ngle vifit. The rcfrefhments obtained, were very -flight. The aftronomical obfervations which were here made by M. Dagelet, coincided nearly with thofe of Cook. On the i ft of January,hope- lefs of obtaining here a fuflicient fupply of pro- vifions, our navigators refblved to continue theM courfe, without farther delay, towards the Wi S. W. and to proceed to Botany Bay, by a traci which no navigator had as yet purfued. The wind, however, fhifting from N. to W. S. W. obliged them to ft retch fouthward. On thd morning of the 2d of January 1788, they per. eeived .the Ifle of Pylftaart, the difcovery ©j Tafman. Its greateft breadth is a cpiarter of 5 league. It is deep.; on its north eaft fide are $ few trees;' it can only ferve as a retreat im aquatic birds. Its latitude was found by M Dagelet to be 22 deg. 22 min. S. For threi days, the French frigates weredetained by calms within fight of this ifle. ItOn the 6th, the trade- winds arofe from the eaft; the Ikies were dari ened ; and the billows began to roll tempeftf oufly high. Thefe breezes, accompanied witl heavy rains, and an obfcure horizon, continue! to blow till the Sth. Steady and ftrong bree zesthen arofe from the north-ead to the fouth ■©ad ; the weather became dry; and the fe was exceffively agitated. When they had pal fed the latitudes of all the ifles, the-winds re fumed their regular courfe. The temperatut of the air became now alf© colder. On the 13! they arrived within fight of Norfolk Ifland* an of two other iflets lying contiguous to its font! 1 ROUND THE WORLD. 41 l«rn extremity. Approaching its coad, they rfound the water fufficientiy fmooth ; and were therefore induced to cad anchor in twenty-four fathoms depth of water, over a bottom of hard fand and coral. Clofe upon the fhore of the lie, the fea was feen to break with fury. ^M. de Clonard was therefore fent out to difcover, whether the boats might not find fafe fhelter behind, fome of the rocks which fkirted the coaft. He ftood towards a fort of inlet between two hpoints at the northern extremity of the N. E. coad of the ifle. But a fyrf, breaking on the rocks, was foon found to render that inlet inacceffible. They coaded along within half a muf- ket-fhot from the fhore, for the fpace of haif-a- league, but ftill without finding a firig'e fpot where they might land. A natural wall of lava was feen to furround the. ifle. The lava appearing to have le(wed from the fummit of the mountain, to have cooled in its defcent, and to have formed a fort of roof, projecting feveral feet over the coaft of the iile. Even if they -could have landed, yet, it would have'been impoffible t© penetrate into the interior parts of the ifle, otherwife than by ftemming fome rapid •torrents, which had formed ravines for the fpace of fifteen or twenty toifes. Beyond thefe natural barriers, pines, and a rich and verdant herbage, covered the face of the ifle. From the {hip, M. de la Peyroufe anxicufiy watched with his telefcope the progrefs of the boats. At the fall of night, feeing that they had found no fit place for debarkation, he made 1 fignal to re- cal them. Soc|& afterSoiaers were given for the fhips to ge we »i- h. A fignal from OL-'Afcrolabe,- at this time, gave the alarm that 242 LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE fhe was on fire. A boat was indantly difpatchrsl ed to the affiftance of the people on board her. But happily before the boat had proceeded half way, a fecond fignal from L'Aftrolabe, gave no-ja tice that the fire was extinguished*. A box of acids, and other chymical liquors, had, by taking fire fpontaneonfly, occafioned the alarm. That hox being thrown overboard, removed the danger.. £ I -1ER I^^m Norfolk Hand rifes abruptly for about feven- tyor eighty toifes above the level of the fea. Its pines feem to be of the fame fort asLthofe of New-Caledonia and New-Zealand. Of the •cabbage-bearing palms, which Cook found on this ifle, there were none feen bv the French .navigators. It is uninhabited, fave by fea-fowls, particularly tropic-birds with long red feathers^) boobies and gulls were likewife feen upon it, in great numbers. To the northward, the eaftward, and perhaps all around this ifle, there ex- ^ tends a bank of fand, over which the depth of the water is but between twenty and thirty fathoms. Some red-fiih were caught by our voyagers overagainft this ifle, which afforded.^ them an excellent repaft. At eight o'clock m1 the evening, they refumed their courfe; failing,^ firft, W. N. W. afterwards bearing away grad-|: ually S. W. by W. The bottom was found b.yj frequent foundings, to be even ; and the water became continually deeper in proportion as they receded from the land. At eleven in the eve-v ning, they were ten miles W. N. W. from then moft northern point of Norfolk Ifland, and could find no bottom with a,line of fixty fathoms." The wind was at E. S. E. with frequent ■ L . darkening blafts, in the intervals between which* © ■- - -- - - -^nV-^M'^n~^-r~ ROUND THE WORLD. 24J the fky-%as tolerably clearif At day-break, they held with full fail towards Botany-Bay, frorrr which they were not now more than three hundred leagues diftant. In the evening of the 14th, they founded with a line of two hundred fathoms, without finding bottom. The wind continued to blow from E. S. E. to N; E. till thev came within fight of New Holland. Oif the 17th, in 31 deg. 28 min. S. Lat. in 159 deg. 15 min. E. Long, they were furrounded' bv flocks of gulls, which led them to fufpect- the vicinity of fome rock or ifland. Thefe birds followed them to within eighty leagues- ©f New Holland; and had probably come from fome uninhabited ifland which our voy- agerlFhad paffed without obferving it. Within eight leagues of Botany Bay they at laft found bottom under ninety fathoms depth of water, Rafter havmg, every evening, founded without fuccefs, with a line of two hundred fathoms, fince their departure from the coaft ©f Norfolk Iflandifl. On the 23d of January, they arrived within fight ©f Botany Bay. The land is not of ■any extraordinary elevation; and is fcarcely vifible beyond the diftance of twelve leagues out at fea. In their near approach to the Bay,.they met with currents by which they were continually drifted fouthward from their reckoning: On the 24th they plied for the whole day to windward, in fight of the Bay! -'without being able to double Point Solander. This day, they perceived an Englifh fleet at anchor in< Botany Bay.; and could difcern its colours and pendents. At nine on jihe morning of the 26thy, they dropped anchor in feven fathoms water' ©vex a -bottom of-grey-fan 4, ahreafi of, the fecond- im 244 LA PEYROUSE-S VOYAGE bay An Englifh lieutenant and midfhipman came on board, as they entered the mouth of the channel; informed the French commander, that they were fent by Captain Hunter, commanding the Sir i us Englifh frigate; and ma* king offer of every fervice which Captain Hunter's circumftances could permit him to render them. Deferters from the Englifh fettlement, which was at this time juft forming under Goy-n ernor Philips, afterwards gave the French no fmall trouble. The Englifh having gone from Botany Bay to Port Jackfon, M. de la Peyroufe halted for fome time in that Bay. A fort -of-in (re n ch men t with pallifadts was formed on fhore, for the purpofe of fecuringthe French during their flay, from the mifchievous attacks of the natives. Thefe people threw fpears at them, after receiving their prefents and careffes. It was the determination of the French commander to fail from Botany Bay on the 1 cth of Majpch 1788; and he had hopes of arriving, in the month of December, at the Ifle of France. M. de Clonard was here advanced to the command of L'Aftrolabe. From this fla- tion were tranfmitted home the laft letters and journals which have been received in France from the unfortunate La Peyroufe, and the companions of his voVage. Every thing concurs to perfuade us, that they have all perifhed by fhipwreek. No accounts have been obtained concerning them. Captain Bo wen, in December 1791, on his return from Port Jackfon to Bombay, perceived, on the coaft; of New Georgia, in the eaftern ocean, the wreck of a fhip which he judged to be of French con- #ru$ion, floating upon the waters. From the " ROUND THE WORLD. 2/L$' figns of the natives he learned-that European fhips had touched on their coaft ; and he perceived, in their hands, feveral articles of iron and glafs-ware. The only fhips known to have ijftvigated thefe feas, are—thofe of Bougainville, —the Alexander—the Friendfhip of. London—« tfhofe of L^ Pteyroufe—and that of Captain Bowen. As the redafe known not to have been wrecked in thefe feas, the only inference which remains, is, that the wreck which Captain Bowen faw, muft have been the wreck of the fhips of La Peyroufe. This is the only probability which we poffefs concerning the fate c£* this great navigator and his companions. Hi mm mix ROUND THE WORLD. oo ■ m « w P* w w o K^1 6 m < © t& Hi P C o Ho c *1 r . Eaft • ■ *4 As I P © ,^3 co on m . ^ bO *V "5» « ^ • t< 1— N4 .... 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While he wrought to windward, a current from the point of Efcarfeo, car- ried the veffel backwards. On the 29th, at two o'clock in the Morning, he was obliged to call anchor near that point. On the 30th, at half after %ree in the morning, the wind changed to fhe weft, with a degree of violeace wbich drove. ifa LA PEYROUSE'S VOYAGE the frigate from her anchors. At length, with great difficulty, and with the lofs of fome anchors- and cables, the point was doubled. At eight j o'clock, on the evening of the 31ft, they came to anchor under Ihelter of the ifland of Tiaco. Qn the ift of September, they procedeed on their courfe. About fix o'clock in the evening of the 2d, they reached the harbour of Sifiran. . E 4 On the $d, Don Antonio Maurelle came to anchor, and moored the veffel in the beft manner poffible, as he was here to wait the final orders of the Governor of Manilla. In the interval he endeavoured to difeipline his crew, that \ they might be prepared to refill any hoftile attack in the courfe of their deftined expedition* He wrote alio, to inform thevgovernor of his arrival vt Sifiran 5 and to requeft his further or- jders. Contiguous to Sifiran are fome very hig&jj mountains, which conftantly preferve much humidity in the climate, and appear to occafion violent hurricanes, which are frequent here.? The wetnefs of the weather began already to af- fe£l the fCamen of the Princefa with difeafe & and one man died during their delay here. The^i neareft inhabited parts of the ifland are at morei than 30 leagues©! diftance from Sifiran. -. -SteCfi mountains, and paQes occupied by the favage natives, lie between. Here, the Spanifh captain found the utmoft difficulty to procure the'rfcri frefhments requifite for a voyage of confiderabl^i length. The Al'cade of the province, at the requeft of Mr. Maurelle, furnifhed him with cables to replace thefe which had bet \ loM Anchors, however, were not here to W^oM taincd. & I ROUND THE WORLD. On the ioth of November, an officer arrived, and put into the hands of captain Maurelle, a. [large box, containing fome difpatches relative to ithe fervice of his Catholic Majefty. Thefe he was charged from the governor general of the [Philippine Ifles, to convey with all poflible fpeed to his Excellency, the Viceroy of Mexico. For this end, he was, without delay, to fail, to either the port of San Blaz or Acapulco, as he himfelf fhould find convenient. Such a voyage, unlefs to fhips fetting out in the beginning of June, and failing with the wefterly winds which then blew, to the eaft of the Marian Iflands, had been [hitherto judged impracticable. Don Antonio iMaurelle, therefore, juftly confidered himfelf as engaging in a voyage abfolutely new, in the courfe bf which he would be obliged to fail in a tra£fc over the ocean which no former navigator had tried. Zeal for. the fervice of his fovereign, however, animated him to encounter every difficulty. His perfonal experience had acquainted him with thefe feas as far as to New-Britain. The charts of M. de Bougainville and others, were adapted to afford him fome further direction. Urifortunatelyny8|g^e port from which he Was- now to fail, it was impoffible to obtain an adequate fupply of the necefTaries for the #0yage. Their bread began already to be exceedingly injured by inf«6ls. Of water, they ||uMnot conveniently flow more on board than wMMty pipes and forty barrels. The cordage tes. Very infirm. In want of tar, they were mligsa-.tp accept pitch. In the very outfet of lis-'^oyage) Captain Maurelle faw it neceffary to pemt&fhx encountering calamities in the courfe lc IX* ' & j4 LA'PEYROUSE S VOtf A&E On the 2!ft day of November, 178©, the Princefa frigate failed from the port of Sifiran for San Blaz, on the weftern coaft of American- She was wafted by fine breezes from the E. N. E. and E. Mr. Maurelle endeavoured to gette the northward. On the 3©th, he found himfelf -in i<5 deg. 14 min. N. Lat. The winds and high fwelling feas retarded the progrefs of tht veffel, and at times diverted her from her courfe, fo. that, on the 9th of December, me was ftill "within fight of the ifland ©f Catanduanes, one of the Philippines. Tolerably frefh breezes from rhe fouth and weft, now enabled them to run to the eaftward till the 14th of December. New variations of the wind foon obliged them to run to the fouthward. The charts which they had onboard, reprefented different iflands, none of which appeared as lying within fight of the tra£t over which they pafled between the 18th and 21 ft. & But, the ftiort and heavy billows which nowyrolled around them, were fuch as muft certainly have been produced by the proximity of the Caroline Ifles, or the New Philippines. They croffed tfee line on the 29th, and entered the foutherjrliemifphere. Mr. Maurelle ftill made it his principal obje£t to fleer fouthward, till he might fall in with the weftfl|-' ly winds, fuch as are naturally to be expected Jii high latitudes j_yet varied his courfe in compliance with the frequent variations of the breezes to which he was, in the mean time, expofed. Jn this courfe', many large trunks of trees, birds, of different fpecies, boobies, and thofe fowl's which the Spaniards named dominicos, were ©H ten feen by the fhijp's company, while they (ailed on. ROUND THE WORLD, ^6c On the7th of January, tbey faw the Thousand Isles of Bougainville, of which the moft northern, is, in his chart, placed in i deg. lomjn.S. and m the Longitude of 139 deg. 3© min. E. from Paris. They coafted along thefe ifles, at a fmall diftance from the fhore, took many bearings, ,and determined, as Mr. Maurelle believes, with %reat precifion, the pofitions of 29 of them. Thefe ifles are ?M low, covered with trees, and £ome of them conjoined by intermediate reefs of locks, the fea breaks over thefe rocks ; and theV are not viuble at any great diftance. Sailing -within two miles from the moft northerly of j&hem, J:he Spanifh mariners could perceive ma<- nv fires blazing on thofe which were on the moft: ©afterJy. Nor was it poffibleto withhold from furprize, at perceiving fuch narrow fpots inhab^ Btfed. Steering foon after, eaft by north, they .-difcovered on the 8th of January, S. 3 deg. E. at the diftance of 5 leagues, two iflets, to which pMr. Maurelle gave the common name of Her* mitanos.C That evening, they faw alfo the Anchorets of .Bougainville, precisely in the latitude mentioned by that voyager ; aiad almoft at the psie inftant, f<5ur fmall ifles to the eaftward, j *>n which was impofed thename©f'Monagos. Bearing away from thefe ifles for the North PCape of New Britain, they difcovered, t>n the pioth, at day-break, other ifles lying S. S. E. "On this, and the following day, they ran along the length of the moft weftern of thefe new iflef, at a moderate diftance from its fhore. Its -northern coaft is 11 leagues in length. Beyond the plains adjacent to the fea-fhore, feveral hills fjto^re; ieen to - rife to a confiderable elevation. ■^our low ifles, covered with trees, a-nd wi& * T W& 266 LA PEYROUSE S VOYA&E *coaft free from reefs, came in view fucceffively, *while the frigate failed on.fi It is not improbable but the channels between'thefe ifles may. afford good anchorage, in which fhips may be fufii- ciently protected from both fea and wind. Fromihefe ifles, there came out on the nth, /twelve canoes, with a number of the iflanders on board ; who eameftly craved food from the Spanifh failors. Some cocoa-nuts, with a few pieces of bifcuit were thrown out to them, and -voraciojufly accepted. "With long hatchets which they bore, they made every effort to drag away a net with fomo .garden-ftufFs, which they faw fufpended from the poop of the frigate. Their weapons were flender arrow-like darts, pointed with clumfy flints. They had alfo fifhing-nets. It fhould feem ihat they live in a condition of extreme mifery. Fifhing is undoubtedly their principal refoujrce for the means of fubfiftence. To the la*geft of thefe ifles, Captain Maurelle .gave the name of Don Jofeph JBafeo. Of thofe .two, which lay the fartheft to the South, he gave to the moft wefterly, the name of San Miguel ; to the moft eafterly, that of Jefus Maria. To two other ifles, at two miles diftance, along the coaft of which the frigate failed, he gave, j to thejnore eafterly the name of San Raphael; to the more wefterly, that of San Gabriel. A number of other ifles contiguous to thefe, equally attracted tjie notice of Mr. Maurelle, while he failed on •, and were diftinguifhed by new names. On the 12th, after paffing within view of a very fmall iflet, he defcried the ifle of Matthiae, which the French chart places to the north ef Jslew Britain. Sailing onwards, in the facs$ .«&• ROUND THE WORLD. 2#7 re£lion, they difcovered, at length, the French Ifle of ftorms, almoft concealed from obfervation, by means of the fogs in which it was involved, and of the rain and blafts of wind which they met with in its vicinity^ On the 13th of Janua^p, an extenfive coaft arofe to view. Clouds, fogs, and tornadoes, filled the fouthern hemhphere of the horizon. In this ftate of the weather, it was#difficult to diftinguifh what land this coaft could be. Yet, judgingfrom all appearances, it could hardly bs other than that of §New Britain. Continuing their courfe, they daily difcovered a diverfity of iflets, which they believed to be hitherto unknown to European navigators ; tilt at laft they came within fight of g& iflets, which they fuppofed to be the Outong Java -of the French chart.. Thefe ifles were per- |pdved to be furrounded by a fand-bank, which was not vifible beyond the diftance of two miles from the fhore. Near the edges ©JJ the bank, feveral fmall rocks raife their head^j^|eernably abqYe the water. On the fouther^#Pjm|this -bank, is a narrow opening, oppou^|j^f||«!fiich i.Jfcfr. Maurelle found the latitude t© be.4 deg>*. £3 min. at two cables' length from the entrance. The1 entrance leads to a gulph, in w-hjgii.the fea is entirely calm, and where fhips maytfjjil&y rk|e [ajygichor, during the time neceffary £0 t&ke i:\ teejjd and water* To the north .this "gflgh-fs; ;3»dflered by the iflets. The SpaniftiXcomman- der gave it the name of Pu-erta la Princefb* From thefe iflets, more than fixty canoes i^me out to within a mufket's fhotof the frigaft^,'^But i?tshe wind, at that inftant, blew too favourably to leave it eligible for the Spaniards to wait their, nearer approach. On the ifteta ^p^ared jtahn*- fii.SSI; 'i *6& LA PEY ROUSE S-" VOYAG8 tfeees, the fruit of which, with the produce of their fifhings, ate their only probable means for fupport. From Outong-Java,. the Princefa was carried ©nward by winds which, during the day, were. gentle and favourable, but became violeflrin the night. Amid ft fo many ifles, the progrefs b]fe sight was exceedingly dangerous; but the whole flip's company were vigilant, and happily fuc- ceeded without fudden misfortune. On the night of the 2 2d, they obferved the billows to break with terrible fury on a fboal of rocks* to which they gave the name of The Snorer|| and bore a#vay from it with all poflible hafte.' During the remaining part of January, the winds blew faintly, varying between the points- of N. N. W. and N. E. Thefe occafioned the frigate to tend, in its progrefs ftill farther and farther fouthward. Efforts were, from time to, time, made, but with little fuccefs, to bend their track, as they went on, again towards the line. Seeing the voyage thus prolonged, Captain Maurelle, from the -2©th of January, ufed the precaution of leffening, by two ounces, the daily allowance of bread to each man. On the 16th of February, finding that the weather did not become more favourable ; that they were ftiJi far diftant from the place of their deftination ; and that there did not now remain on board provifions for more than three months : he thought proper to reduce the total daily allows a nee to two thirds of what it had hitherto been. The fhip was unhappily infefted- with cockroaches, which committed the moft deftrfi&ive .-.'depredations on the cafks of bifcuit. Many of the water-calks had- alfo leaked out the great* 3tOU»D Till WORL0>- 3wjfc? i er part of their contents* and had become entire-- ly unfit for further ufe. Mr. Maurelle was^- j therefore, induced to make fail for Solomon's Iflands, in order to replace the water which he i hail loft. But the north-eafterly winds blowing, without interruption, ftill drove the veffel, in | fpite of every e ffbrt fouthward. On the 20th of February, they were 17 leagues weftward I from Cape Santa Cr»z,or Guadalcavar. Breezes from the E. N. E. and E. foon made them lofe all hopes of gaining Solomon's Ifles. It was determined, as the laft refource, to proceed farther fouthward,. till they fhould fall in with thofe ifles of joy and abundance, which have been fo much celebrated by the Englifh navigators. The failors heard the determination with extraordinary J0>riS A fmall ifland was feen on the 2<5th of February ; and, there, they inftant- ly flattered themfelves? that they fhould meet the ample gratification of their wifhes in the relief of their wants.*||But this ifle was-utterly barren ; nor did its coaft affiord anqhorage for a< fhip's boat. In the bitternefs of their difappoint- - jBaent, they gave it the inaufpicious-name of Amargura. On the 27 th^ however, was difcovered an ifland of fairer afpecl. Its fummit had a burnt' appearance 4 but its Hope was intereftingly covered with trees and verdure. In particular, many cocoa-nut-trees were feen- upon it. The faintnefs .with which the wind blevkjbut very imperfectly aided the eagernefs- of the Spanifh crew to approach the fhore of this ifle. But a number of canoes foon came out from its weftern fide^ with cocoa-nuts and bananas, which s#ere readily bartered with the ftrangers. The Y2. 273" LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE iflanders came on board the frigate; and one, who feemed to poffefs fuperior authority, ex&^i preffed the moft friendly fentiments towards the Spaniards, danced and fang upon the deck, and gave to Mr. Maurelle, among other prefentlj a large piece of ftuff7, refembfing blotting paper.. His prefents were amply compenfated. He informed them, that the ifle was named Latte ; that he himfelf was its ehief; that it was abundant in fruits and frefh-water ; and that anchor- ing-ground might be found on its coaft. No fuch anchoring-grould could, however, be difcovered. But in their ftretches round the ifle, the Spanifh navigators defcried, at twelve leagues diftance to the E. N. E. other ifles of lower elem vation, but larger extent, between which there were channels, which might afford fhelter to Shipping. They directed their courfe towards * thefe ifles. On the 4th of March, they conducted the frigate up a fmall entrance formed by the ifles to the N. "W". and anchored at a fhort d$f| tance from land, in forty five fathoms watedfl From this anchorage were feen, within the gulph, houfes, plantations of banana and cocoa- trees, with very flattering appearances of wa-lj ter. Various harbours, where the fhip mighty find fhelter, were likewife difcovered amidft this grOupe of ifles. In the evening, they moveit from thejr fir# ftation ; and on the 5 th, at day* break, anchored in twenty-three fathoms depth of water, over a bottom 01 fand and ftones, at the diftance of but two cables' length from an inhabited fhore. While they were coming up into this ftation, from fifty to an hundred canoes came daily ©ut t© them, with hogs, fowls, baaaaas, cocoas, and US2LJ ROUND THE WORLt). $ft potatoes of extraordinary fize. Cloths made from the bark of palm-tree, and others of different forts, were likewife offered by the natives* In exchange, they afked hatlchets, knives, and other cutting inftruments; but thefe Captain plaurelle ftriclly forbade his crew to give. The Spaniards cut down their fhirts, trowfers, and jackets ; and for thefe, were obtained hogs and other -refrefhments. The iflanders who came ©n board, folicited Mr. Maurelle to carry his fliip into the middle of their Archipelago. The Chiefs readily fate down at his table, but would eat of nothing but their own fruits. The women likewife vifited the Spaniards, and appeared to be not at all difagreeable in form and?fea- tures. They wore a fort of petticoat encircling their waift to the knees ; and the men had on a fimrfer drefs. I Some of the men meafured fix feet four inches inftature, and were proportionately tlfick and robuft. The loweft in ftature of the iflanders, was taller than the talleftof the Spanifh crew. A prefent of fruits was fent to. the Spanifh commander from the Tubou, or Great Chief, by the hands of his fon. The ' 4 youth was courteonily received ; and feemed to be well-pleafed wiim 'his reception. At eight o'clock, next morning, more than a hun<j#ed canoes, with a great noife of the perfons who manned them, came around the fhip. ^The Tubou was now on his way to vifit the ftran- gets- He was an old man, of enormous bulk. But, the inferior chiefs lifted him on board the fhip. He was accompanied by his wife, a young woman of Angular beauty, and apparently not above twenty-five years of age. The king and %tteen feated themfelves on the watch-bench, tvrr L A PEYROUSE^S VOYA3E while tlieir attendants, proftrating themfelvei* before them, killed the feet of the XubOu. The Tubou brought:. a large canoe filled with potatoes, as a prefent to the ftrangers. Captain. Maurelle gratefully adorned both him and his. /poufe, each, with a flame-coloured filk fcarf,; reaching from the neck to the waift,and having, two piailres, impreflTed with the image of the Spanifli monarch, fufpendedby a carnation-ribbon, at the lower extremityvWReals, with the> fame impreilion, were, at the fame time diftri— buted to the attendants of the royal pair.#Thefe^ attendants fhewed the moft profound deference* for the 'Sovereign ; and were by him treated- with an air of the moft exalted fuperiority. They* all beheld, with wonder, the equipment of the frigate, and the various things which .^were ihewn to them in the cabin. Thev went awav»>; * ' ' a at laft, with profeflions of the warmeft frrend- fhip, and certainly not ill fatisfied with their reception. To prevent quanels, ,Mr. Maurelle* had the precaution to threaten the feveteft pun-> ifhments againft whoever of the crew fhould* giv£ the iflanders the flighteft offence ; and, at> the fame time, cautioned his people to keep- vigilantly on their guard. He directed fome- canon-fhots to be fired againft the rocks, for the, purpofe of .giving the Indians an idea of the power of the Spanifh fire-arms. They beheld,, with admiration and dread, thofe.fragments of* rocks, which were dafhed off and fcattered about, by the impulfe of the bails. Twelve or fifteen"1 hundred of the iflanders witnefied the discharge: And it produced, on their minds, all the effe£L that was defired from it. On the 6th, Captain,. Maurelle fdedled, from, among his fhip's comw ROUND THE W©M.B* *ft pany, fifteen men, armed them with piftols, fwords, mufkets, cartridges, and arming the long-boat with fwivels, fet out in it for the fhore, accompanied by this party. The beach where they landed, was crowded with men and women. Thefe Mr. Maurelle obliged to remove to a fuitable diftance. He then arranged his men under arms, and pointed his fwivels againft the crowd, t© be difcharged upon them, if any unhappy accident (hould render this neceffary. The fon of the Tubou offered to conduct one of the Spaniards to a ftream of water; but the [wjjaniard, foon beginning to fufpe£l fome bad artifice, defifted from following the young man. A well, dug on the ftrand, yielded only brack- ifh water unfit to be drank. Mr. Maurelle, therefore, directed another pit to be dug, at a greater diftance from the edge of the fea. Tniit labour could not,be at this time completed. On the 7th, the long-boat, with a well-armed detachment, repaired again to the fhore. The digging of the pit was renewed ; and it was, at laft, left in a condition which promifed to afford water on the day following. The Tubou now vifited the Spaniards on the fhore. His attendants were numerous ; evidently perfons o£ rank ; and fome of them, venerable old men* He embraced Mr. Maurelle with the fame affection as formerly. The royal attendants feated themfelves in a circle on the ground. Two carpets of palm-fluff were brought. The king fat down on one of thefe ; and he invited the Spanifh commander to feat himfelf on his right- hand, upon the other. Ail around remained in profound filence, while the Tubou fpoke, and the venerable old men who fat near hiau^re- 274 la%peyrouse's .voyage peated all his words, exa&ly as he uttered them* Roots, probably of the Ava, were brought^ From thefe, ana ufeous bitter drink was preparr ed : and in veffels made of leaves of the banana- tree, this drink was, by young cup-bearers, pre- fented, firft, t© the Tubou and Mr. Maurelle,' afterwards, in order3 to thofe who fat around them. Only a fele£l number were permitted to tafte this neBar of the great, among thefe iflanders^SHe who fat among the Tubou's officers, the neareft to the royal perfon, pointed out, as if officially, to the cup-bearers, to whom they: were to ferve the ava. Mr. Maurelle declined tafting it. Thofe who drank of it, appeared to writh their countenances with difguft at its loathfome bitternefs. Boded potatoes and ripe- bananas were then fet before ihe Spanifh Cap- tarn -, and of thefe heate. Two canoes, laden with fimilar provifions for His* foldiers, were foon after feen to arrive. After the entertainment, the Tubou returned to his own habitation. Mr. Maurelle returned the vifit-; and wascour- teoufly received by the. monarchy Soon after; his arrival at the royal habitation, the beautiful queen made her appearance. Before her walked eight or ten young girls, who might be, each, from fifteen to eighteen years of age. Some of them drove away the flies from incommoding her 5 on others fhe leaned while fhe walked ^ all were employed in menial£ fervices about her perfon. She was wrapped in feveral differenS mantles, which gave a confiderable bulkinefs to her form. She received- the ftrangers with a fmiling countenance ; uttering the words, liley^ liley, liley, which were undetftood to fignify wetsome. The king was fo ready to ftrip hinWj P0 HOUND THE WORLD. *$S felf of his garments, to bellow thefe upon hh - viiitors, that, after this firft vifit of ceremony, Mr- Maurelle, in delicacy, avoided as much as poflible, to give him occafion for beftowing favours, fo coftly to the Tubou, of fo fmall value to his gueft. The Tubou, bellowed, at this firft vifit, upon his Spanifh friend, two large fillies of the gilthead fpecies, and a ftaff painted with divers colours. On the 8th, the pit which the Spaniards had dug on fhore, was, to their jgreat joy filled with water. The natives faw this with extreme aftonifhment. The.Spaniards i filled their cafks. But, this water was ftill fo <brackifh, as not to be worth fhipping. Newfu'p- ["plies of provisions, were, on this day, again received from the bounteous'hofpitality of the [king and queen : And indeed, they never failed t© fend to MrvMaurelle, every evening, a lar^e l-quantity of boiled or roafted potatoes. Finding the water which was to be procured ;/near the fhore, in this ifle, to be exceedingly improper, on account of its brackifh qualities, for ithe ufe of his fhip's company*, Mr. Maurelle -was induced to weigh anchor, and proceed to another bay about a league and a half, or two leagues ©*iftant from that in which he ■had firft attempted to fupply himfelf with -Avater. But, in drawing up the anchor, the ''cable unluckily broke; and the anchor was, in confequence, loft. The new bay was happily Sheltered both from the tempeftuous fweldings of the billows, and from whateverl|was to be dreaded from the winds. It afforded Ianchorage in thirty two fathoms depth of ; water, over a bottom of fand mixed with ftones. »Qn the-pth, the Spanifh crew began to take in 2?£ r,»^ LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE their water. The watering place was but a fisj|f i yards diftant from the beach. The iflanders obligingly aided them in rolling their cafks between the watering place and the fhore. On the ioth, nth, and 12th, they took in as much water as they defired. The friendly intercourse was ftill continued between them and the natives. Of the natives, many would pafs the night on board, with perfect confidence ia the Spaniards*! On the 12th, the Tubou invited the ftrangers to a great entertainment. A fpace of ground was, for this purpofe, entirely cleared of the wood and fhrubs with which it had been overgrown. Indians, in pairs, brought;! from the Tubou's houfe, a quantity of potatoes,' bananas, cocoa-nuts, and^fifhes, fufpended from poles, one of which was fupported between the ©.jfpofite fhoulders of every two of tfie bearers. All thefe provifions were by the Tubou's orders, placed in a large heap, of a cubical form, in the middle of the fpace of ground which had been cleared'out for the entertainment. The pile was not lefs than fix feet in height. The Tubou came next, with the fame train of attendants as formerly. No fewer than two thoufand of the iflanders thronged after. The com- pany feated themfelves on carpets of the palm- tree- The king, in a fpeech, then offered to the Spaniards the heap of provifions which they faw before them. And thefe were therefore, without delay, conveyed on board the boats. After this had paffed, the Tubou again made a fpeech ; and the old men, as formerly, repeated his word3 exactly" as he uttered them. Mr.l Maurelle and the Spaniards knew not well to what all-this-might tends but were on their . ROUND THE WORLD. guard, and ready to difcharge their piftols and raufkets, if anything of hollility ihouid be attempted by the Indians. While all was mute attention and fufpenfe, there advanced from among the ranks of the natives, a flout young man, who laying his left hand' on his breaft, fWuck his elbow with the palm of his right hand. To thofe who were not of his own tribe,»he appeared to addrefs a variety of antic gambols. From among them, one at length arofe, and prefented himfelf to notice, by fimilar geftures. Thefe two immediately begafcla wreftling-match. They clofed in with each other, body to body; and in all (different dire&ions, prefled and pulled one another with an exertion by which the veins and [mufcles of their bodies were, to an extreme degree, inflated and ftrained. One of the wreft- lers was at length thrown to the ground. He fell w'Mx a degree of violence which made fome of the Spanifh fpe£lators fear that he might never if ife again. But he^bon got up, and retired in difgrace, and afhamed, not dar- ring once to look behind mm. The conqueror then paid his refpe£fcs to the Tubou*, and a !fong was fung in honour of the conteft. Other wreftlers fucceeded. The contefts were pro- iJon'ged for the fpace of two hours. One of thofe [who were engaged, had an arm broken, others fufrered by very fevere blows'. Before the wretfling was terminated, a different fjst of combatants were feen to come forward for conteft. Thefe had cords wrapped round their lifts, [which might ferve them, much as the gauntlets [of the Athlete of ancient Greece. Thefe, it! their e©nteft$, prefented a form of fighting > 27& LA PIYROUSE SVOYACE more awful than that of the wreftlers. They ft-ruck one another on the forehead, the eyebrows, the cheeks, and on every part of the face. . Some were irrecoverably felled to the ground. The ipe&ators feemed to regard the boxers with a degree of refpecf, fuperiorjb that with which they had looked upon the efforts of the wreft- ; Icrs. The female attendants belonging to the queen, as alfo fome other Avomen, were witneC^ fes ©f thefe fportive combats. The ladies were, upon this occafion, arrayed in all their gaycft attirem. Their mantles were adjufted in neati plaits and folds ; and were fixed by a knot over the left fhoulder: On their heads, they wore garlands of flowers : Around their necks, they had firings of large glafs-beads : Their hair was elegantly difpofed in trefles : The fkin warln a flate of exquifite cleannefs. flJThetr whole perfons were perfumed with an agreeable fragrant" oil. njtiey ftrove to win the attention of the Spanifh gentlemen; and certainly- appeared, for this, only fo much thipnore attractive. jAt the king's command, fome 'female combatants made, alfo, an exhibition of a boxing match. They fought with fuch fury, that, if they had not been quickly parted, they would' hardly have left a tooth in one another's heads. But, at the requell of Don Anconio Maurelle, thefe female combats were fpeedily put an end to. An old woman, at the Tubou's command, fang, for the entertainment of the compamlj While fhe fang, there was a cruet fufpended from her neck, probably to fupply a fluid with which fhe might, from time to time, moiften her mouth. She fang for half an hour together^ in a fjrain not unlike the declamation of an a£lrefs 6n a theatre. From thefcene of the entertaint ROUND THE WORLD.\, ^^ ment,' Don Antonio accompanied the Tubou to i jps houfe.. The queen there received him and her hufband with her wonted courtefy. Whenhg^afk- ed why five had not been prefent at the fports 5 the replied, that fuch amufements were far from being pleaQpg to her. The Tubou now honoured his Spanifh friend with the name of hoxaj ©r fon ; and the ties of mutual friendship feemed tobe,in this manner, drawn continually defer between them. Don Antonio foon took leave of his kind hod, and returned on board the fhip. The Indians on the fhore, treated the Spaniards, as they paffed to their fhips, with every pcflibie demonllration of friendly kindneft* The conquerors in the games would oblige Don Antonio, to permit them to convey him upon their fho aiders, into the long-boat. But, the Tubou perceiving from hifrhoufe, that the ^re- fence, and even the kindnefs of his people in- coin^aoded their guefls, came out with a rod in his hand, and, witH^fevere beating, drove the whole crowd away into the woods. All was now inreadinefs for^the departure o£ the Princefa. Onihe 13th, Captain Maurelle had refolved to fail. Bur, this day, gales of wind from the north, and from the N. W. blow- ! |ag directly into the mouth of the paffdge by which he was to fail out, rendered his dep.irture abfoluttiy impoffible. The winds grew ftill ftron- ger and ftronger. And though three anchors were- down from the frigate, yet the cable of her fheet- anchor gave way. On Jhe 15th, the violence of~ the winds feemed to be fubdued. But, the failure of the cable of anther of the anchors, again ^"concerted Mr. Maurelle, when he w&about to kt ipfi His cables were ail in an exceeding— ff is 9i> clSo LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE Jy infirm ftate ; and he had e^ry reafon to dread that hislaft anchor might alfo foon be loft. For the prefent occafion he had a cable fixed to the near- ell rock. -The people were again fet to fweep for the two anchor wh«i§i had been here loft. On account of the uneafinefs of mind which he felt from thefe accidents, he was hindered from availing himfelf of a new invitation of the Tubou's, t© another entertainment. fy*t, this hindered not -the Tubou from fending,every evening, for the; .We of the Spaniards, twobafkets of roots, -with' fome fowls and fifh. AH the provifions which had been collected for the lecond entertainment, were, by the Tubou's orders, carried on board the frigate. And the Tubou came, there, feveral times, to dine, and enjoy his afternoon's nap. On the i6th, Mr. Maurelle ag$l|tl made a fruitlefs attempt to leave the channel. On the 18th, the firft pilot going out in the boat, happily found another channel, through which the frigate might eafily,fail away. At two o'clock on the afternoon of the ioth, the Prin- cefa had, fortunately, gotten clear of all the iflands. The king and queen took leave of Don Antonio, upon this final feparation, with the flrongeft expreflion of kindnefs and forrow. Many of their fubje£ls, in their canoes, attended" the courfe of the frigate, till fne had left all the ifles behind her. To the harbour, formed by^ three ifles of confiderable-extent, and a number of fmall er ones, Captain MaureiieLgave the name -ofJEl.-- Refugio. It lies in 18 deg. 36 min. S. Latflh 179 deg. 52 min. Long. E.:from Paris. To the who!e cluftei of ifles, he gave the name of the Ifles Don Martin de Majorca. It affords5 flicker from every^ilorm, blowing, from whatevei? ROUND THE WORLD. 2$fr quarter. The c&Hnnels to the N. W. and the S. W. by which fhips may enter or depart, afford' jMty-fyre fathoms depth of water over a flintyy; flony, or gravel^ bottom. A fimiiar bottom, ex- tendfcgrto the very centreof the gulph, has therep thirty-five or forty fathoms depth of water ; in fome of the creeks, the depth of the water is di* ♦ j mmifhed totwelve-or fifteen^fathoms.^^tis proper to keep the lead going* while a fhip feeks ■■ anchorage amidft thefe ifles^Nothing can exceed the fertility of their -foil. Cocoa-trees, banana-trees, liene-trees, fugar-canes, with a di- verity of other fruit-bearing trees, potatoes., with abundance of other fweet edible rootsj glow here, almoft fpontaneoufly, and in the greateft abundance. The^Rihivatiou is alfo wonderfully fkilful;^ No weeds ;are fuffered *> among the plants, in the cultivated fields. There are roads in maH^y directions, and in an excellent condition.|$ It was with pleafure that Don Antonio Maurelle found himfelf able to increafe to thefe ganders their -flock -of vegetables, by prefenting them with fome- maizej rice, and I feeds, which he directed them to plant, and explained their ufes. | Shrubs, of which the bark is ufed in the fabrication ©f their cloths, are, alfo, among the obje£U^of their cultivation. The conduct of thefe people was ever gentle and beneficent to the; Spaniards.^ But; the Spanifh commander ^was cautious never to go on fhore without an armed guard: and he ufed every other feasible means, to infpire them with ref- pe£l for him and his fh^'s company. Tliey were, however, almoft all thieves. Clothes, iron-work, whatever elfe they could fecretly i ^fci^e, never iaited tp be made their prize, when z *£ m *<* 232 LA PEYROUSE S VOYAtJE they came on board the frigaife. Tubou, upon Captain Maure&e's complaints, gave him per- miffion to infli£l inftant punifhment upon any of the iflanders, whom he fhould detecl in wich theftsj| Some of them being foon after fur- prized, in an attempt to tear away the rudller- cliains, a piftol was fixed, and one of the thieves was killed. Thofe who beheld his fate, were :iotroufi#3 to indignation againft the Spaniards, but only faid, Chito (fignrfying Robber) Fana (Death.) It was impoffible for the Spaniards to difeovCr, during H&eir fhort flay, whether thefe people profeffed any fort of religion. The founds of their language were not difficult of articulation to the Spaniards ; nor did the iflanders find any difficulty in articulating'the words of the Spanifh?4anguage. Mr. Maurelle was informed by them, that two European fhips had, not very long before, touched at thefe ifles; and had fuppiied them, in barter, with glafs-beads, hatchdts, and adzes. The chiefs wear, around the neck", a mother-of-pearl fhell, and have the little fjiiger, on both hands, cut off to its root. The Tubou promifed to fupply the Spaniards with a much greater abundance of provisions, if they would carry their frigate towards the ordinary place of his abode. But, with this requeft, Captain Maurelle found it impoffible to comply. Had it not been for the unfortunate lofs of the anchors, nothing could have been4&ppier than the period of the flay of the Spaniards in this harbour. All were agreeably refrefhed: the fcotbutic recovered health and vigour: every thing was fairly obtained, at a price the moft triftal. On the zcth of Marchf the FHneefa wa^cfead ROUND THE WORLD/ 283 of all thefe ifles^ She now rari^fe the S. E. before an E. N. E. wind. In this courfe, there were foon defcried, firft, one lofty ifle, afterwards three others, extending between St and W.*§| W. In the ifles nearefl to the fhip, were feen, as fhe advanced, about eight and forty fires.ff At jfoh-rife, on the 21ft, they counted to the number of ten iflands, on one hand, and fix on the other. Thefe they eroded to the fouthward, through lifge channels$fcwhich are interpofed between them. Arriving, in their farther progrefs, in a vaft gulph, they there difcovered, at five or fix leagues diftance, a multitude of %Hes, lying in a circular arrangement around it. Surrounded by fo many low ifles, Mr. Maurelle now endeavoured to pafs out from the gulph, by fome of the mafiy channels which opened among them. But he foon found every opening to the fou^iward to be barred by drea&im^breakers, againft all accefs of the frigate. *He then directed his courfe wefesrard^towards the lofty ifle which had firft attrSuSted thef notice of himfelf and his fhip's company. Bjffun-rife, on the enfuing morning, while the frigate approached this ifle, various c^poes.were feen to come out with fruits and other provifions, fuchias had been obtained in the 31 es recently left. For fhreds of cloth, the lading of thefe canoes was readily purchafed. $0he Tubou of thefe ifles fent out two hogs and fome cocoa-nuts, to the inviting Spanifh commander ; with a meflage> i him to vijfit the ifle on which that Chief Had his refidence. Afterwards, this Tubou came himfelf on board. He had heard ©f the vifit of the Spaniards to his neighbours, and feemed Jo be jealous of the favour which the other Tubou jjJSS;; m 2$4 LA 'ME TROUGH* VOYAGEI had obtated with the Spaniards by his hofpi-* tality to them. The Indians agreed in informing*! the Spaniards, that it would be impoffible for their fbfp topafs fafelyout from among thefeHfes,^ otheTwife than by the channel on which lay their Tubouffca§e~ He was fei#to be fovereign of eight and forty iflasds^lH© proniifed tMfk. Spaniards, that, if theffewould Imd -oil-his ifl€y| he would give them a pile of potatoes, as big&iijSj the maft-head, and would entertain them with a nibble exhibition of wreftKng. He put hS?§ mother-of-pearl fhell about tha^ neck of the Spanifh commander; and, after paffmg five or fix hours on board, retired, .in hopes of a vifit from the ftrangers. The frigate, in her courfe, eoafted along many oftthefe ifles.j^At fun-fet,. fhe had advanced beyond them all, and was pur- fuing her^eourfe, under- a brifk wind from the • eaft. JTo^mis groupe of ifles, Mr. Maurelle ? gave the general name of therflLEs of Don Joseph Galvez. 1Eie fouthjern Cape of that ifle • on whicli the Tubou refides» lies in 19 deg. 3© j min. S. Lat. in 179 deg. 38. min. Long. E. from Paris. Ont&e 22d, our voyagers advanced fouth- ward *, difcovering, as they went on, two ifles, i which received from them the name of Las Cul-; ebras, the Snakes, on account of a great funkert.F rock, which was perceived, by its breakers, to be ■> between them. They had now paffed the racftf dangerous fhoals *, and they therefore continued*! their voyage before eaftern wind% with new • compo^re of mind. On the 25th, they dif- - covered, to the weftward, a fmall ifle, to which was given the name of La Sola. AnotinM^: #|rich they defcried on the 27^, was named by • them Vasqjjex Island. On the 39th,- in 2$- ROUND t&E \fo«&&. a$j deg. 52 ffciin. S. Ij&t. and, by fuppofit^n, in nfg deg. 17 min. Long. E. from Itaris, they ||ere enabled* by a weftern wind, to fteer S. i%by E. [They followed this courfe till the 3d of Apr&, .when in 30 deg. S. Lat. 174 deg. 22 min* E. Long.#iey found the winds to fubfide to a perfect calm. In this fituation, an exaitpination of their ftores fhewed them, to their unfpeakabl© aftonifhment and diftrefs, that their bread was 1 almoft entirely deftroyed by the cock-roach^j [Not above a thoufand pound weight of their jwh©le bread remained unconfumed by thefe in- i fe£ls. Some potatoes remained ; and there was f ftill a little pork, with fome rice. f^But no degree of parfimony could make thefe fcanty fup- I plies fuflicient for the remainder of the voyage. lit was therefore determined to fteer for the Marian Iflands, and once more attempt to obtain ifcme fupplies from the fouthern ifles, among which they 4ad 4*ft a^choredff; Mr. Maurelle was cruelly afflicts by tht^feew neceffky, as* he juft got into thofe Itpitudes in which regularly blew the winds which he expected to bring him happily to the erijd of his voyage. With variable ^idnds^iey-now held their couHe northward. A breeze from t%e S. E. arife^ on the 9th of Api#i enabled them to geVforty leagues to the eaftward of the ifles whl^h they had before vifi6- ed. On the 16th, the winds began to blow more gently^iOn the i"8th, they became more Wifk, andMi£6fe accompanied with dark clouds and heavy rains. At day-break, on the 19th, they held their courfe towards the iflands. They happened to pafs between the two groupes, the Ifles of De Galvez, and thofe of De Jftajerca. Enable, »on account of advetfe a© LArjaeSfcOUSE's VOYAGE win4j^ to reach the ifl^pr of Minorca; they, however, difcovered, on the 21ft, to the N. N. E. and E. N. E. two ifles, which they named CoNS0LAciON.)Jt From thefe ifles, there foon came out a number of canoes laden with provi- fions.JbFor fhredfr of cloth, to furfpfh which they ft ripped themfelves almoft naked, the S^an- i£li failors now obtained fweet potatoes, pigs, cocoa-nuts, bananas, and fowls, in confiderable plenty. J^he language of thefe Indians was the fame as.that fpokcn in the harbour El Refugio. Their kindnefs to the Spaniards, the fame. Nineteen of them flept on board the frigate.. And force was even neceffary to oblige them to be gone. Ik/They were defirous to prevail with the Spaniards to land on their ifl^ and promifed vaft ftores of provifions, if their requeft were complied with. On the 2 2d, at.night, $he frigate's courfe wasj renewed towards the N. N. \V. In this courfe, a new ifle being d^covered, it received the name of Maurelle. £ome canoes came out with provifions from thjf ifle, but were forced bade*by the tempeftuous winds which blew, and bathe fwellin^ waves. Lofing no favourable moment^ Mr. Maurelle had made his way, on the 5th of j^Jay, as far as the 6 deg..:|jfi S. Lat. Here was found a low ifle with afandy fhore, that termi* nated in an impenetrable reef, near to which a line of more than fifty fathoms gave nojndica- tion of bottom. This-ifle was covered with co-, coa-trees. The longboat was fent out with an armed party, to bring in a fupply of Cf^oa-nuts. But the breakers of the reef rna^e it impoffible for her to-land. The Indians, however^ launched their canoes,: and came out with fuch ianM ROUND THE WORLD. mjr Supplies of cocoa- nuts as the diiSeulty of the navigation would allow them to bring. They endeavoured, without fuccefis, to tow in the frigate towards the fhore. But after fix hours bfifruitlefs labour, the attempt was given up. pbe people of this ifle were frightfully foefmear- ed with paints, and differed fomewhat miiheir ttpeech from thofe of the more ^ftuthern ifles. Th«y had, for the moft part, long beards, hanging down their breafts. On the 6th, Mr. Mau- reflle wasobliged to reduce the daily allowance of food to each man of his crew, to five ounces of bread, three ounces of pork, and two ounces of beans. That evening, they faw another ifle, larger and lower than the laft. To this f$e jth-ey gave the name of San Augusi^n. On the fjjth, they again croffed the Line. Every ap- jpearance concurred to perfuade thena, that, in the latter part of this courfe, they had left much land to the eaftward. While the crew were confined to^he above mentioned fmall a$ow- lance of bread* every one complained of a weak- fnefs of ftonaach. Their flrerigfth was in general, !fo exceedingly enfeebled, that they were now hardly able to walk the fhip^lf'Moft of "them [were attacked with the fcurvyfe On the 24th they found themfelves in 13 deg. 16-.min. N. Lat. aftif aJl danger was at an end. Tfeey fleered W. by N. for Guam, the capitalfof the Ma-- rian Ifles. OnfUte yi§^$hey zr^moxed in the | noad of IJmata. Don Fhttttppe Zemin, governor of this ifle, no fooner receis^A notice of the arrival of thej$ 'Princefe, and of her wants, than he fent on jboard a temporary fupply of rice, maize, anjfe hogs, for Sfen days, to be ufed, if the veffel m 2$& LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGfE fhould, b?3att?v fudden accident, be driven from the road $ give daily fupplies of antifcorbutic provifions for the ufe of the crew ; and furnifhed an old anchor to fupply for one of thofe which had been loft. A wooden anchor was; framed to fliake up forlthe lofs of the qfher. Plater wiffciiext, taken in, w$h all expedition. To their afl&ifilfbment, they found, that/tby unknown leaking from the calks, their flore of waterfed been, before their arrival in tip road*, reduced to lefs than two butts^l? Their barrels were entirely fpoiJed : but of thefe alfc^ j*#$up- ply w&ifurniftted by the care of the goveihor. Qf eatables was obtained a fupply of about five hundred bufhels of maize, two hundred and fixty bufhels of rice, thirty hogs, twenfy bullocks, with a large quantity of dried meat, of butter, of fait, of lamp-oil, of cocoa-nut brandy, with fiaty cocoa-nuts for the hogs.n On the 20th of June 1781, the Prfocefa was ready for the re>«. newal of the voyage. On the 20th the anchor was weigbfctil. ^In the railing of the ancHor, the; i^le again* unforl^atej^ broMe, and the anchor was loft. f Mi£|j*j$kdi($lle ©ltofe to^fteer a northerly'; cflarfe.. Winds from the E. and N. carried thbm tiabae'deg. 10 mm. N. lat. For the next? eight days,iytheyrtixperkneed *M. calm that leM them entirfctjf at the^hercy-'of thei wind$j* by which they were drifted to the N. W. OA the 3d of July, in Lat. 24 deg. 26 mill; the wfiids; between the W. andN. began to blow, at timfes, with cpltffiderable force, at other times, more faintly. On thetyth.;they were carried to Lar£i ^ deg. 9 min. On the rgth they had reached tlve'latitude 27 deg-tp5 a muw*|fOn the ■A. ROUND THE \VORL$. %%1) 5th of Auguft, after a progrefs which had not [been very fuccefsful, they fell under the influence of a north-weft wind. Till the 13th they I fleered E. bv S. In the interval, the winds had been extremely variable. On the id they were m JN. Lat. 37 deg. 5 min. and, by accurate reckoning, in 144 deg. 17 min. of longitude W. from Paris. Till the 3d of September they flood to the eaftward. Sea-weeds, and trunks of fir-trees floating upon the water, here gave, them the firft indications of the proximity of the land of California. To approach this coaft, i they fleered E. S. E. On the 4th, the colour of the waters of the fea began to change : Small birds were alfo feen; and all things confpired to indicate that land was nigh. On the 8th they found themfelves but five leagues diftant from Point Pedernal. After obtaining fight of this point, they directed their courfe towards Cape San Lucar. In their courfe, eight leagues eaftward from the ifland of Guadelupa, they had fome days of calm. They next came within iightof Morne-Saint-Lazare. On the 2 2d they were near to Cape San Lucar. A dreadful hurricane overtook them on the 25 th. For fix hours it continued to rage with fuch fury, that, even againft an heavy fea, they were driven on at the rate of feven miles and a half, ah hour, under the forefail. On the 26th and 27th, they doubled the Maria Iflands, and came at laft to an anchor in the road ofSanBlaz in 21 deg. 3© min. N. lat. in 134 deg. 5 min. Long. E. from Manilla, 107 teg. 6 min. Long. W. from Faris. In fpit© ©f all their difficulties, only two men had died on the voyage; one in the harbour of Siriran^ the other, of a^tthifis* If" IS LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE This narrative is of ufe to fhew, how far the^ Spaniards are acquainted with the ifles of the ♦South Sea : Maurelle's reckonings are extremely inexac"l: Yet he is efteemed one of the mofl ©xpert of all the Spanifh navigators. VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN GEORGE VANCOUVER. ill 1_ HE fmaller quadrupeds inhabiting the extreme northern latitudes, are furnifhed by nature with coverings of furs, which form almoft a fuftVient protection againft the colds to which they are there expofed. Neceflity, always taught the human inhabitants of the fame climates to clothe themfelves with the fkins of thefe animals while thev fubfitl chiefly upon their flefh. At once warmer and' more beautiful than any texture which men can fabricate, thefe furs5 have, hence, become objeas of the higheft efti. mation for clothing, as well among the civilized nations of the temperate zones who poffefs* rich diverfity of other articles for drefs, as a-mong he almoft polar favages, who can procure nothing clfe to cover their nakednefs. Hence hCommercial importance of Siberia to d* Ruffian Empire, of. Canada, and of the fedc- '■rics on Hudfon's Bay, to Britain, . A,a 2 ■- ' _ . ■94 LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE Among ail the civilized nations in the tempe-1 rate, nay even in the torpid regions of the earth, there is a very eager demand for furs. Thefe are to be obtained only from the hunters in the northern regions of Europe, Afia, and America. Ruflia and Great Britain have, for a while, pof- feffed, almoft exclufively, the trade in thefe furs. From Siberia, the Riiffians have long been wont to fend, by annual caravans, to Kiatcha on the confines of China, vaft quantities of furs, which the Chinefe there purchafe from them at enormous prices ; while they alfo furnifh very large fupplies to the vanity and luxury of the people of the middle and fouthern regions of Europe. Canada and Hudfon's Bay, furnifh the merchants of Britain, alfo, with great quantifies of furs, Which they partly fell in Europe, asid in part export to China. The quantity of furs which call be procured, is always exceedingly unequal to the demand for them. Hence, no article that is, at prefent, the fubje& of com-. merce, affords laiger profits to the merchant. For the Chinefe, who will fcarcehj* accept any ihing but gold and filler for thofe vaft quantities of teas which Britifh merchants purchafe from them > it has become an objecl of great commercial concern for Britain, to procure an.,- £rt:c:e which they efteem fo highly as furs, and for which they are willing to pay at fo dear a rate. Hence, when CoOK difcovered, ist the iN0tth-weft eeafts of America, an immenfe fur-country, far richer in this produce than thofe regions out of whiefc the merchants and hunters of European commerce had been Jong, exterminating the fur-bearing quadrupeds •, the attention of Brjufh merchants was inilantly J ROUND THE WORLD. «95 turned w^h great eajjpeftnefs upon the diGggve- ry *, and it was foon refolved to feek, from the territories round Nootka Sound, a fupply which ifcight enable the Britifh to anderfell the Ruffians in the Chinefe market. An expedition from London was foon undertaken at the expence of fome opulent and enlightened merchants ; and two fhips of confiderable burthen failed upon it, under the command of Captains Portlock and Dixon, officers ©f diftinguifhed fpirit, prudence, and nautical experience. Other adventures for the fame North-Weft c$$ft of America, and for fu^s, were fitted out from Bengal. Among other commanders, to whom was intrufted the conduct . of thefe adventures, was Captain J. Meares, who, though lefs cautious and prudent, perhaps, than fome others, appears to have been emi-. nently bold, perfevering, fertile in expedients, and endowed with liberal and enlarged intelligence. In the firft voyage which he conducted, the imprudent ufe of ^ritous liquors, with other disadvantages, made a terrible havock of his crew. Yet, in procuring furs of the moft valuable quality, he was remarkably fuccefsful. In a fecond voyage, his fuccefs- was not lefs 5 and he was foftunate in preferving his, crew pirom fuffering by. any extraordinary mortality. It was imagined that Cook'sdifcogpery of-thefe whole coafts, bat in particular of Nootka Sound, gave to Britons, in.an unqneftkinable manner, all that right to the fovereignty jof thefe regions which difcovery-. and occupancy are belieyed to confer. Meares erecled a fort of fort, and,be- lieved that he had fecured fornimfelf and, &fe empJ^»5brtfee fur-trade of this fouad, when4j© 2f§6 LA PEYROUSE'S VOYAGE "was fuddenly expelled from his fituation, and treated by the Spaniards with all the violence due to a Buccaneer. For though other nations were little capable of the liberal nautical views that fent out thofe important expeditions for difcovery, which havjj been performed by Britons, in the courfe of the "prefent reign , yet they have been fufficiently eager to avail themfelves of every advantage' which the difcoveries of Cook, and other Br*| tons, have opened out to commerce or to con- qfteft. From the ports of the United States of America, from thofe of Rufha^from thofe of Spanifh America, expeditions for profecuting the furr j trade, .on the north-weft coaft of America, were eagerly fitted out, asfcon as Cook's difcoveries had been made generally known. I he Spaniards, trailing tothe aid of France, and .ftill ambitious to keep as much as poflible of America in their pof- feffion, though they keep it abfolutely de folate, were foon anxious toexcludeallether nations,and particularly the Britifl), by whom it had beOjB difcovered, from this north-weft American coaft. In the affair.of Falkland Ifles, they had experi-; enced, with what tamenefs a Britifh Miniftry,. can fubmit to infultand difhoncr, even from a weak foe.-.; France was ftill ready to fupport Spain, and to humble Britain; i The Spaniards thought that they might "again, with impunity, venture to.infult rheBriftfh Government-^ arid ton; deprive its. fubjedl&of their rights. . Hence Were Meares, and other • adventurers in thV'~fite trade^ driven ffrorrafcthe -coaft: of%$[©otkar,r and maltreated;-as Buccaneers, by the Spaniards™ 3The Spaniards'refoived, if poffiMe, to engrofs, 'the fur trlderof tJfcrmffjfres, and,to make t*#m*f ROUND THE WORLW 297 felves exclufive mailers of the weftern coaft of America, as far northward as its coaft was ac- fcefiible. Britifh fubje&s injured, carried their complaints to the Government, to the Legifhture, to all their fellow-fubjecls. It was impoffible it© evade hearing them. Remonftranoes were joffered to the Spanifh Court ; naval prepara* ttions were made. It was talked, that, if the Spaniards refuted conceffion, the wrongs of the phritifh merchants and navigators muft. be redrefir- ed by force of arms. Supported, encouiaged by France ; remembering how a Britifh Mmi& jtry had been dealt with in the affairs of Falkland's Iflands ; the Spaniards talked loftily and evafively, lengthened out ncgociation; at laft, made a conceffion, in accepting which, it feem!» to have been agreed, that the Britifh Miniftry fhould virtually facrifice the right in difpute. To receive the offFered furrer. der of tJie violated Britifh poffeflions at Nootki Sound from the Spaniards, Captain George Vancouver was fent mt with two fmall fhips of war, under his command. Having, before failed with Cook, he was well qualified for fuch a voyage* In the barrative which he prepared for the prefs, but lived not to publifh, he has evinced how ?nuV lentlv he was qualified to make his expedition S/aluable, as a voyage of dUeovery! what a mock*. ;ry the Spaniards were, by the very treaty, fuffer- *d to make of that furrender, which he went out bo receive from them ! Captain Vancouver's inftru&ions from the lords of the Admiralty directed him to make a tew examination and furvey of 'the Sandwich [lies 5 to proceed from thefe to tfc§ northrwefl^ 298 LA PEYR&USE's VOYAGE coaft of America 5 to recefve the formal fur^ render of the buildings and territory, of which certain fubjeds of his Britifh Majefty had been •difpoffefled by the Spaniards in the year 1789 : to explore the north-weft coaft of America, from 30 deg. to 60 deg. N. Lat. with a view to the difcovery of a paffage in thefe latitudes, between the weftern and the eaftem fide of the American continent: and to examine, alfo, the S. W. Shores of America, from the fcene of the moft fouthern Spanifh fettlement to the very iburhern extremity of America. In accomplilh- $kg thefe objecls, Captain Vancouver was farther directed to conduft himfelf peaceably, upon every opportunity of intercourfe with the fubje&s of other powers; and, after his deftin- ed Jfurveys fhould be completed, to return tos Britain,: if poflible, by the way of Cape Horn. . : in the beginning of January, 1791, Captain •Vancouver prepared to fail from BritaiS The Difcovery was under his own immediate command; the Chatham, likewife under his orders, was commanded by Lieutenant W. R. Broughton. Various caufes of delay, detained them till the month of April, on the Englifh coaft. On the evening of Thurfday, the 28th of the -fame month, they arrived in the road of Santa Cruz, before the ifland of Teneriffe. Here they obtained very good wine, water, and beef, for fea-ftores ; but found the fruits, vegetabiesia general, and poultry, to be both very indifferent in quality, and very dear. From the Spanifh Governor of this and the other Canary ifles, the gentlemen who went on fhore, experienced bul art uncourteous and inhofpitable reception. Had it not beenfor the kindnefs of Mr. Rhoney.llJ J ROUND THE WORLD. 299 Irifli gentleman, they could not have obtained 3n the ifle, either a dinner, or even the temporary fheiter of a roof. From Teneriffe, they failed flraight for the Cape of Good Hope. On the evening of Sunday, the ioth of July, they hnchored in Simon's Bay, at that Cape. Mr. [Brandt, the Dutch Commandant, in the port, received them with the moft polite ancl benignant pofpitaiity. Their 'wants were foon happily upplied : their repairs were made ; they had jnuch agreeable and friendly intercourse witlr the inhabitants of the place. On the evening of |:he 17th of Auguft, after a longer delay than; \hey had at firft intended, they again fet fail. [Directing their courfe towards the coaft ©f New- Holland, they now failed onwards, for a while, [without any very remaikable accident or obfer- vationM A flux attacked the health of the crew*, but they did not, as yet, materially fuffer from [fcurvy. At length they arrived within fight of [the weftern coaft of the land to which their [courfe was deftined. They explored its S. W. (divifion, with an accuracy which ha,d,not been [attained by former navigators. New points, breeks, ftreams, habitations, and contiguous ifl- »ts, prefented themfelves to their difcoverv»rl:In [an extent, however, of an hundred and ten leagues of coaft, they found only one very excellent harbour. Its fituation is in, nearly, 35 deg. - min. S. Lat. 118 deg. 17 min. E. Longitude, frhey gave it the name of King George the IrHiRD's Sound. Wood, water, fifties, were here found in a fuf- pcienf abundance for the fupply of their wants. Head-lands and iflets protect the harbour, al- ppft on all fides. jLuxuriaat grafs was few t$ $m LA PEYROUSE'S VOYAGE cover extenfive' tra&s of the adjacent landilp Much of the lower ground was morafs. The foil was deeply coloured by ochraceous matter, Tknd was perceived to communicate a fimilar colour to the waters.** Coral appears to be the principal fubftratum lying immediately under the mixed vegetative foil. The hills rife with a gentle elevation, which does not feem to bid defiance j fg$'the plough. The moft common of the foreft' trees greatly refemble the holly. The larger1 trees feem to be of that fpecies which is called the gum-tree of New South Wales. Myrtles, not Unlike to the pimento tree of the Weft Indies, are alfo very plentiful. A dead kangaroo wa*s the only quadruped which thefe Englifh navigators had occafion to~ fee here: Vultures, hawks, parrots, and a few other land-birds, attracted their notice. The black fwan, the black and whke pelican, grey curlieus, and fea-pies, were the moft common aquatic fowls. The fnook,] the calipevar of Jamaica, the white mullet, rock4 fifties, maekarels, herrings, were am©ng the fea- fifhes which the Englifh voyagers caught in this* found. Whales and feals likewife played round] •the fhips in great numbers, and with great fa-^ rmliarit^llt A few fnakes and lizards, beetles, flies, and mufketoes, were the reptiles and in- fe&s. The climate feems to be mild and agreeable. No unufbal violence of the wind^ was felt en this coaft. At that time in the year which anfwCrs to the beginning of April in the northern hemifphere, the mercury in Fahrenheit^ thermometer ftood at 53 deg. In the barometer, the indications were from 29 deg. to 30 deg. 50 min. None of the natives of this 'coaft had any k*fercott*fe wifh the Englifh voyagers, Tvtfo ROUND THE WORLD. 301 tojf-their villages were, however, vifit&d. The houfes or huts have much of the form and afpecl of the ftraw-thatched bee-hives common in Britain. The larger trees^ in the vicinity of thefe villages had been hallowed out-] by fire, fo as to afford cccafional fhelter to the people. No fortof proper houfehold furniture was feen inany of the huts. The only implements were flicks ivery rudely fafhioned by manual labour, into fpears. Appearances fuggefted, that thefe peo- ' pie muft derive their means of fubfiftence rather from the land than from the ocean. Much havock appeared to have been made among the woods by the carelefs ufe of fire. Our voyagers / JO pid not fail) without leaving for the abfent natives, a prefent-of beads, knives, looking-glafles, land otner trinkets. On Tuefday,the iithof 0£lober, they weighs ed anchor, and failed from King George'sSound. rThey now bent their courfe for Otaheite. The dyfentery had not yet ce'afed to afflic"l the fhips* companies : And there was no other place alike jnear, where they might hope to find fuch an [abundance of equally falutary refrefhmen^iflAt the hour of nine in the forenoon of the 2d of |November, they arrived within tight of the coaffc- New Zealand. Here they foon came to an- 0 jchor in Dufky Bay. They afterwards worked itbe veffels into Facile Harbour. Parties were, without delay, fent on fhcre to cut wood for fu*- \el, fpars, and planks, to brew fpruce-beer, to re- jpair the fails and rigging, to procure frefh fifties for the fhips' crews, &c. in a very fliort time, the neceflaiy labours were happily difpatched. A party of the gentlemen now fet out on ari ex- ^urfion, to explore the bay mors particularly than Bb ^PE^ROlF^^VO Y AG E had been done by Captain Co©k< They landed in fome of the coves frequented by the natives, but met with none of thefe people. Their excutpen enabled them to make fome additions toCook'sex- cellent map of this bay. On the 18th they again i fet fail. The fallubrious air, and the different refrefSrnents whioh were here procured, contributed in a very effential manner, to reftore and to preferve the Siealth of the crews* In their progrefs towards Otaheite, they difcovered a clufture of feven craggy ifles *, of which the larg- eft is fituatein48 deg/3 min. S. Latitude in 166 deg. 20 min. E. Longitude, which had efeaped the notice of Cook ; and to which, on account I of their fituation and appearance, Captain Vancouver thought proper to give the name of the Snares. ||On Thurfday, the 22d of December, i they arrived withinfightof one of theSociety Ifles. Some of the natives foon haftcned out in their ..canoes, to reconnoitre the fhips. The Englifh advanced to meet them. They were wtth difficulty perfuaded to come on board the Britifh fhips. It feemed that thefe iflanders had never feen any fuch fhips beforei They were, however, not unacquainted with the ufes of iron, ne% with thofe articles of European manufacture ■'which former voyagers had left in the hands-of 4 ^y the inhabitants of fome neighbouring ifles. They preferred iron to every thing elfe which the Britifh navigators had to offer. A few' fpears, a club or two, fome indifferent flings, were obferved in their canoes; Two or threei of them were for about an hour on board Captain Vancouver's fhip. But their attention was fo unfixed; they were in fuch a ftate of giddy ^mazement-at the objects which they faw \ their ROUND THf WORLBs language was f© utterly .unknown to the Britifh;- that it was impoffible to obtain from them, any fatisfa&ory information concerning their ifland and tlaeir fellow countrymen. Towereroo, a native of the Sandwich Ifles, failed on board the difcovery, on his return from Britain to his own country. But he remembered too little of -his na"dhre language, to be materially ufeful on this occa&on, as an interpreter.' From the an- fwers of thefe people, however, Captain Vancouver was led to believe the name of their ifle to be Oparo, that of their chief to be Korie. The ifle is fituate in 27 deg. 36 min. S. Lat. in 215 deg. 58 min- 28 fee. W. from Greenwich. Its fhores feem to be eafily acceflible. It has fome fmall bays in which vefielsmay find j. fhelter. Its greatefl diamatrical extent is about jhx miles and "a half: Jts circumference maybe •eighteen miles. It conftfts of a duller of lofty and craggy hills.; which tower up in fome roi mantic pkmacles ; and which rife with a very abrupt elevation from the fea-fhore. The fpa- ces between the IjJHs feem rather chafms than vales. They are covered chiefly .with fhrubs and dwarfifh trees. On the tops of fix of th£ higheft hills, tliere feemed to be a fort of biock- houfe, like a Britifh glafs-houfe, with fortifications formed by wooden pallifades, and extending for fome length down the hill. People were feen amid thefe fortiications. About thirty canoes, moftly double, were obferved at the fhore. The ifle feemed to afford no large timber. The number of tr# inhabitants mry be eftimated afc fifteen hundred. Though the ifle prefented no confideraye marks of fertility *, yet the people, feemed to be well fed, were handfome in formr m LA PEYROUSE S YOYAGE of moderate ft|ture, not deformed with f^ars, mild and benign in their manners. Leaving Oparo, our voyagers proceeded with a fair and eafy courfe, till, on Friday the 28th of December, they anchored in the bay of Matavai, on the northern coaft of Otaheite. On his arrival at Otaheitej Captain Vanvou- ver ifiiied immediate orders, enjoining hi-s people to a£l in an uniformly pacific and friendly manner, in all their intercourfe with the natives ; prohibiting trade otherwife than by the intermediation of proper agents, till the fhips fhould be fupplied with provifions ; dire Cling the officers and feamen, diligently to difcharge their different duties 5 and threatening the proper punifh- ments againft any attempt to embezzle the king's flores, belonging to the veffels. Mr. Broughton, with the Chatham, had been divided from the Difcovery, in the paffage from Facile harbour^ At Matavai bay, he was again overtaken. He had difcovered, in his progrefs, Chatham Iflliid, and fome other ifles, inhabited by a flout race of people with whom a conteft arofe, and -fituate in 43 deg. 49 min. $k Lat. in 183 deg. 2q min. W. Long. The natives of Otaheite gathered eagerly around our voyagers, as they came to anchor in the bay. Captain Vancouver, who had been a companion of fome of the voyagers of Cook, was impatient to enquire after his old Otaheitean ac-e quaintance.f?Moft of the friends whom he left here in the year 1777> were now dead. But Otoo, with his father, brothers and fillers ; and' Poatatow, with his family ; ftill furvived. Otoo had, however, retired to Eimeo or Morea ; leav-, ing to his eldeH fon the fovereignty over this andi ROUxMD THE WORLD. 30$: the neighbouring ifles. The youn^ king had af- fumed the name of Otoo ; and old Otoo was now called Pomurrey. Prefents from the prefent Otoo, had been fent to Mr. Broughton, before Captain Vancouver's arrival. The meffen- ger whom Captain Vancouver fent on fhore, to pay his firft compliments to Otoo, returned wit& a pig and a plantain-leaf, the prefents and tokens of ainity. An interview was propofed-, Otoo came down to the fea-fhore^;and Captain Vancouver went on land for this purpofe. Otoo appeared a boy, of about nine years of age ; was clothed in a garment of red Englifh cloth, with ornaments of pigeons'feathers ; and was borne upon the fhoulders of a ferrant.' The ceremonies of the interview were foon over. The fove- reign,by the direction of his attendants, gra- cioufly heard from the Britons proffers of friend- fhip, and promifed thofe fupplies of provifiong which they afked*^ At the requeft of Otoo, Captain Vancouver readily agreed to lend a meffen* .ger to the ifle of Morea,. for his friend Pomurrey. The Britons, in the mean time, fet up their tents and obfervatory on fhore ; znd, without lofs of time, endeavoured to make the neceffary repairs, and to take in the requifite fupplies. On Mondays the 2d of January ,17^2, Pomurrey arrived, with the Englifh gentlemen wh© had gone to,, waij^ipon him. With,him came alfo. Matooara Mahow, the fubordinate chief of Morea, who Was apparently in the laft flage of a deep confumption. Pomurrey readily recognized Captain Vancouver as his old acquaintance. Cloth, hogs, fowls, and vegetables, were foon prefented in plenty, to thr Britifh ge.ntlemenj.by the Otaheitean chiefs- Axe% ; B b ™r- re 3o5 LA PEYROUSE's VOYAGE and other fuitable prefents, were given t© the Otaheiteans in return. Among the chiefs who vifited the Britons at their tents and fhips, was Popno of Matavai, who brought a portrait of Captain Cook, that was drawn by Mr. Webber, in the year 1777, which rerriMns always in the houfe of the chiefs of Matavai, and has become the public regifter \ having the dates of the a*^ rival and departure of foreign fhips inferred on its back. Pomurrey -and Mahow, with their wives dined in Captain Vancouver's cabin, in fpite of Captain Vancouver's cautions to the contrary, Pomurrey would intoxicate himfelf with brandy, till he fuffered feverely from its fiefcen- ing effects. Young Otoo was carried round the encampments; and the Britifh gentlemen had now an opportunity of learning, that whatever utenfils had been once ufed by the Otaheiteaa fovereign, muft be immediately deftroyed or caff: away, as it cannot be ufed, without a crime, by any perfon jfelfe. The father and brothers of Pomurrey came alfo to vifit his Britifh friends* They all paid the moft refpedHul homage to the infant Otoo, Pomurrey's fon. A difplay of fire-works was one of the means of entertainment which Captain Vancouver prefented to amufe his illuftrious friends. Poatatow, after fome days, came down to the fcene of the Brt$$- -i&^ncampment. He came with a magnificent prefent of hogs, vegetables, cloth, mats, &c. to his old friend, Vancouver. Every thing, but wood for fuel, had been obtained in abundance ; and our voyagers fiad advanced far in the preparations for the renewal of their voyage ; when fome &f the chiefs: offered to furnifh Captain Vancouver with abundance alfo of fire-woad, i£ ROUND THE WORLDi 307 hef would lend them axes to cut it down, as they* were unwilling to wear out their own axes in* fuch a-fervice. The axes were lent, and the wood was furnifhed3f Except only the daughter of Opoone, chief of the Bolabola, all the princes of all this groups of ifles, were now affembled at tne Britifh camp and fhips. Avery magnificent* prefent was, after fome time, offered by Pomur- iey, in return for ailthat he had received from the liberality of Captain Vancouver. It confided of fome very-large hogs, with cloth, fowls, and vegetables, in abundance. On Saturday, the 14th of January, a meffage from Pomurrey informed the Brijffh commander of the death of Mahow, the chieftain whofe liberal curiofity had brought him to vifit their fhips, even in the laft fl'age of a mortal diftemper. Captain Vancouver wifhed much to attend the funeral of the- deceafed chief; but his defire was balked by the religious delicacy 'of the Otaheiteans. The death of Mahow was regretted with many ex-- preffibns of thfe' deepefl forrow. The women wounded themfelves with fhark's teeth ; and Jthe men lamented hirn with wailing and tears. His body was, after the accuftomed mode of burial %i thefe ifles, depofited in a Morai. Some ©f the gentlemen belonging to the Britifh fhips, 'makSng an excurfion among the ifles, were every, where entertained by the natives, with the kind- eft hofpitality. The mourning for Mahow was prolonged, during many days ; and Captain Vancouver was, at his own defire, permitted, at one time to a£l a part among the mourners. Some petty thefts were, in the mean while, committed by the natives upon the«property of their? tk'fliSh friecds * But, the ftokn property was, So3 LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE for the mod part, with little difficulty, recovea^r ed. Since Commodore Cook laft vifited thefjj ifles, there had been long difcenfions and wars, hi confequence of which, moft of the animals which he left here to breed, had been deftroyed. A marriage had reconciled the contending chiefs, and united their family intereft. The whole ifle of Otaheite was, not merely in name, but in reality, fubjefl to one Sovereign. A long period of tranquility had been enjoyed. Even the contiguous ifle of Huaheine, now owned the fovere%nty of the Otaheitean Otoo. In Huaheine, Omai had died without children ; and his houfe and-other property had fallen into the pofleffion of the immediate chief of that ifle. Omai had been much refpe£led in Huaheine,, during his life ; and he died unive^fally lamented. It was a fatal fwelling in t}xe. throat, a dif- eafe caught from the crew of a Spanifh veffel, by which he died. Young Otoo was likely, from, cireumftances too tedious for a detail ih this place, to attain the fovereignty of almoft the whole of the Soejefcy Mjes. The whole Otahei- tean princes, but particularly Pomurrey, for himfelf, and in the name of his fon, profeffed themfelves the faithful allies of Britain and King George. Pomurrey would gladly have drawn from Captain Vancouver a promife to procure a Britifh fhip of war, to be fent out, after his own return, to conquer all the furrounding iflea for his Otaheitean Majefty. Captain Vancouver faw, witbvpleafure, that the intelligence .and the general character of Pomurrey, had been eminently improved, fince the sera of their firft acquaintance. £Je a&edwith a generofity, benevolence, uprigb$ijefS| and politenefsjiin hqj in- J ROUND THE WORLD. 3&9 tercourfe with the Britons, which would have done honour to any European nobleman ; and he evinced a defire to become acquainted with the Britifh arts, fuch as befpoke a mind expanded for the reception of liberal and ufeful knowledge, and at the fame time fully capable of appreciating all its value. Already,have the people of Otaheite, and the ifles immediately circumjacent, begun to forget the ufe of all their own ancient implements and utenfils, in the preference which, they have learned to give to the implements and utenfils of Europe. Nothing of importance in the labours of thefe people can now be done,without the axes, files, knives, fifhing-hooks, fciiTors, &c. of Europe. Few fpecimens of their old tools of bone or ftone, are now to be feen among them.. Englifh red cloth and linens, too, have obtained fuch a reception among them, that they begin to negle£l the culture of their own cloth-plant. Should they be deprived of future fupplies of European commodities ; they would certainly fink into a condition more uncomfortable than that in which their firft European difcoverers found them. One material advantage, in the induftry and ceconomy of the inhabitants of thefe ifles, has indeed been derived from- their acquaintance and trafficking intercourfe with voyagers from Europe : Hogs, and prov'fions of all forts, being fufcepuble of fale to the fir anger voyagers ; have hence been reared and cultivated with greater care, and in a conjiderably greater abundance, than before. The commodities of Europe ftill retain all their primary value in traffic with thefe people. Three large hogs, weighing from- one to two hundred pounds each, were> J^ && fcg»$ation of Pomurrey, the fiipulatedprice for< 3'LO L A nPE YROUSE V^Op^G E an axe ; and other tljfogs of an ufeful chara£ldf were paid for, in a fimilar ratio of value. In the? late wars, almoft all the European plants and janimaJs left here by Commodore Cook, have been deftroyed. j A few fhaddoeks, a little maiz| of good quality, fome coarfe radifhes, and a fell pods of the capficon, were all the produce Cap! tain Vancouver could fee, of the various exotpjjl vegetables which have been, from time to time, introduced here; The milk of the goats has not been hitherto adopted as an article of food : Nor i?ave they multiplied to any very great number* But, the race is not likely to be exterminated : Captain Vancouver procured, here, fome pairs which he took withltfm for the Sandwich ifles. On Tuefday:*he 24th of January, our voyagers ^iled from the bay of Matavai, for the Sandwich Ifles. They felt regret in finding their progrefs to have been confiderably flower than they ha-d expected when they departed l|om Britain. The winds were favourable. Ho accidents occurred to interrupt their courfei- No new difcoveries met their ob- fevation.. - The ferenity of the Ikies allowed them to make fome accurate aftronomical obfervations. On Thurfday, the firft-of March, they arrived, fcrappily, within fignt of Owhyhee. f£«On its coaft, they found themfelves in 18 deg. 9 min. N. Lat. in 209 deg. 33 min. by reckoning, but by th^ir chronometer 204 deg. 19 min. E. Long, from Greenwich. In the morning of Fr:i- - .day, the 2d, fome canoes came out with pigs and vegitables ; and among the latter, were fome excellent water-melons. But the priced demanded, were enormous: And the natives £eemea far from anxious to deal with the ftran# ^AMtt^^di GROUND THE WORLW pfs. The fhips were, foon after, carried into |;he bay of Karakakooa. Other canoes again came out. Tianna, a thief who had vifited China under the protection of the captain of a merchant fhip in the fur- trade, and had rifen by the friendihip of his Britifh protectors, to the rank of a chief in this Ifland, came out in one of thefe canoes. He was Received with kindnefs and refpe6l. He afked*:- for his Britifh friend Mr. Meares; and told, that pamaahrnaaha had by his aid obtained the fove- reignty of the three northern diflriels of the' Ifle, while that of the two fouthern diftri£ts had been affigned to Tianna-himfelfll No European peflels had touched at thefe ifles fince the au- iumn of the preceding year. About that time, fhey had been vifited by three or four American prigs, and by a veffel from Macao. Tianna Viewed with admiration, and at the fame time pith the moft vigilant attention, all the tranfac- :ions, and the apparatus of the Britifh fhips. He held long conventions with young Towereroo. At laft, he requefted Captain Vancouver to convey himfelf with a- confiderable company of attendants, to the more northern Sandwich ifles, which the Britifh fhips were to vifit, after leav~ ing Owhyhee. Large promifes from Tianna engaged Towereroo to fettle under his protection in Owhyhee, inftead of proceeding to his native ifle of Morotoi. To Towereroo5s care, Captain [Vancouver intruded a letter for the officer who [was to arrive here with a veffel bringing ftores; and provifions for the ufe of the Difcovery and khe Chatham. Anothe rchief, named Kahow- Imotoo, became feow after know" to*tur voyagers* and prefented to^m a.valuable quantity *>93 JP LA PEVROUSE S VOYAGE of excellent'|povifions. Tianna, when the time: for the departure of the Britifh fhips, arrived, was led to alter his firft refolution, and to decline the voyage for which he had before foliated a paffage. Both he and Kahowmotoo, with all the inferior chiefs,fhewed an anxious defire to obtain the feeds and plants of thofe exotic vegetables, which their intercourfe with foreigner!] had taught .them to value. A goat and kid, fome fine orange plants, and a packet of .different garden-feeds, were bellowed upon Kahowmotoo i and were received by him, with une- quivocal expreffions of the higheft fatisfa£lion. From Owhyhee, our navigators foon purfued I their voyage towards the reft of the Sandwich Ifles. As they failed on, before the E. N. E. trade-wind, they were vifited by fome canoes from Rami, which however brought them no fupplies of frefh provifions. On the 7th the Difcovery eaft anchor, on the coaft of'the ifland of Woahoo, in the bay of Whvteete. Some of the natives came immediately on board, bringing a fmall fupply of refrefhments, of which, very excellent mufk-melons, and water-melons, formed a confiderable part. The greater number of the inhabitants of the coaft, were at this time ab- fent on a military expedition, with their chiefs, Titeree and Taio, who had been for fome time at war with the chief of Owhyhee. But many villages were feen contiguous to the fea-fhore | The face of the country was remarkable for pic- turefque beauty *, and the fields difplayed, at -once, .great fertility of foil, with no mean fkill and diligence of cultivation. During his, flay in this harbour, Captain Vancouver had fome neceffary repairs made upon his fhip, and endea* ■HOUND TW& WO&£$M .** l?oured, but with little fuccefs to obtain a new fupply of water, in fearch of water, he made an excurfion into the ifle, to fome diftance from the coaft. The fields were there feen to be divided from one another by low flonerWaHs § were planted with the edao and taro roots 5 were in a high ftate of culture', and were inundated, for the purpofe of promoting the growth of thefe vegetables." The natives were every where gentle and inoffenfive ^ but fhewed no eager anxiety to ingratiate themfelves with the ftran- gers. Two of the natives, however, condu£re$-" them^ as guides ; and made a hog, with a quan- $t^ of vegetables, t© be prepared fer^their entertainment, ilpefe, was a rivulet of-good water; but its courfe was at fome diftance from the fla- tion of the fhips : And the natives could not be perfuaded to lend their affiftance towards bring* ing it on board in any confiderable quantity* The ftation of the fhips, in the bay of Whyteete^ was round to be in 21 deg. 16 min. 47 fee- N; Lat.in 2©2 deg. 9 min. 37 fee. K Long. $W&i WoahOO, our voyagers failed for Wh^-MEa-Bay, in the ifland of Attctwai. Their courfe was flior't and eafy. At nine ©'clock, in the evening of Friday, the 9th of Inarch, they anchored in the^eftined ftation, on the coaft of Ottowai. Immediately after their arrival, they were vifited by the natives. Captain Vancouver himfelf, with others of im^M^- tiemen who failed with him, went on fhore. A perfon of the name of Rehooa offered his fervi- ^ces to regulatWtheir intercourfe^Vith the reft of the people; Two good: houfes were appropr^i ted by the ceremony of the Wdfrooi for their ac- s£o«&ioda%ka»: S#?&ace of ground W^s4ikewjfe W- 3*4 LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE fenced in with ftaks, for their ufe ; and the natives were forbidden to enter it. A traffic for provifions and fuel, commenced j and the natives readily gave their affiftance in filling the "*cafks with water, and then rolling them from tiie watering-place to the boats. <Japtain Vancouver, with his friends, next fet out upon an cxcurfion through the ifie. A plain, of confiderable extent, fpreads out from the bafe of the hills to the fea-fhore. The taro plant, fome fu- gar-canes, and fweet potatoes, are the vegitables which grow in the cultivated fields. The taro implanted on wet grounds ; the other vegetables on thofe which are drier. The fides of the ' hills, from a reddiih, argillaceous foil, yield only a courfe grafs. M A wall of remarkable ftruc- ture has been reared for a paffage into the interior country,and for the ufe of an aqueducf, at a place where acccefs into the country muft have been before impoffible, and below which water would not be obtained, before this wall was conftrufled. It is formed of ftones an<J clay. Many indications cf extreme and offenlively indecent wantonnefs, fell under the obfervation of Captain Vancouver and his friends, as they walked through the ifle. An Englifhman of the name of Rowbottom *, who had been left in this ifle by a Captain Kendrick, an American, to collecl for Aim. a cargo or part of a cargo of fandal-wood : cafrie to vifit the Britifh fhips in the harbour. With him came likewifetwo rativechiefs, whofe names were No-ma-tee-he-tee and Tao. ' They informed Captain Vancouver, that Ede- moh regent of the ifle, in the abfence of the fove- reign, would, within a day or two, honour the 'Captain with a vifg*|$ From Rowbottom, infor* KOUHD THE WORLB.? &% jmation was received, that the people of thefe ifles had lUade attempts to takejome of the tracking fhips which had lately anchored in their harbours 5 and that their views were fo daring and ambitious, that, unlefs the commanders of the Difcovery and the Chatham fhould keep themfelves upon their guard, the natives might very probably concert fome enterprize for capturing them. By the contrivance, as it v, as faid, chiefly of Tianna, a fchooner, the property of Mr. Medcalf, an American, had been feized,and -its crew murthered at Owhyhee. No-ma-tee-he- tee produced as teftimoniesin his own favour, the -lettersof feveral captains in the fur-trade,m©ft oF which, however, agreed in reprefenting him and his friends in a very fufpicious light* Another Englifh man or American came with a meffager from the regent of the ifle, and the prince the fon of the fovereign, who was left under the $/&?■ gent's guardianfhip. By this, man, the Britifh; commander fent prefents. to the prince and the regent. Fires, which were feen to be foon after kindled along the fhores, excited new fufpicions of hoftile intentions in the people. Vigilant precautions were employed to avert any dangers which the natives might treacheroufly prepare- The requifite fupplies of water were foon aft^er completed. The men who had been afhore, embarked. Amidft the hurry of their embarkation, fome articles of value were unwillingly en- trufled, for a time, to the doubtful fidelity of the natives; Thefe articles, the natives faithfully preferved and reftored.. At laft, the regent and the prince made their appearance on-the fea coaft, over againft the ftation of the fhips. Firearms and ammunition, of which they ha4lJparrL- *h6 ~~*. LA JKBY.ROUSE S VOYAGE ed the ufe^ were the objects which thefe perfoi*» the moft earneftly defired to obtain. Captain Vancouver, juftly confidering it to be extremely imprudent to furnifh them with fuch inftruments ©f mutual hoftitity, declared that his fire-armsand ammunition were under the Taboo of king George. His vifitants were therefore obliged to content themfelves with fuch other articles as they could obtain. Enemoh the regent pretended to recollect Captain Vancouver, as one whom he had formerly feen with Cook, and produced a lock of hair which he affirmed that he had then obtained from the Captain. Upon the fcore of this old friendfhip, he prefented to the Britifh commander a confiderable fupply of hogs and other provifions. Nor was Mr. Vancouver fparing in a return of thofe articles which he choie to give. •Both Enemoh and the prince, the fon of Taio, condefcended to vifit the Britifh commander on board his fhip *, and the prince, efpecially, behaved in a manner which was very agreeable to the Britifh gentlemen. The prince had af- fumed the title of King George, and fhe wed -a flrong partiality for every thing that was Britifh. The whole tenor -of the conduit'of the chiefs and the people of Attowai, was fuch as to remove every unfavourable prejudice which our navigators had at firft taken up againft them. Highly fat-is tied with their entertainment at Attowai, they failed on the 14th of March forOnee- how. Some friends from Attowai accompanied them to this ifle. And by the kind intervention of thefe friends, they fpeedily obtained whatever fupplies they had hoped that Oneehow might afford. After all, however, the fupply obtained from all thefe ifles, was but fcanty. ICOUND THE WORLD, 3l7 J&ot it was a time of waT:,& ■ And Captain Vancouver refufed to give for provisions thofe fire-' arms and ammunition which the imprudence of the traders had taught the iflander to value above every other commodity.- War, too, appears to' have thinned the numbers of the people of thefe iiles : And they had enjoyed recent opportunities of bringing their animals and vegetables to fale, which had probably tempted them to re- fervc too fmall- a proportion for the neceffary reproduction of the flock. On the evening of Friday, the 16th of March,» our navigators refumed their courfe, and failed from the Sandwich Ifles for the North Weft Coaft of America. They had not been long out at fea, when the mainmaft of the Difcovery fprung. ; and fome defects were at the fame time difcovered in this veffel's rigging. Mean* were inftantly employed to repair thefe damages. They failed onwards with a fair'wind, and in pleafant weather. On the 7th of April, in 3J deg. 25 min. N. Latitude, in 217 deg. 24 min. E. Longitude, they perceived the furface of the fea; to be covered, all around them, as far as the eye could reach, by fea-blubbers of the fpecies Medufa Villillia, lying fo thick to-- gether as to leave no unoccupied interval large enough to receive a pea, without its touching fome of them.; Of thefe Medufa, the large ft did not exceed the circumference of four inches. Adhering, to them, was- found a beautiful blue worm, of a catterpillar form, which Mr. Mer*j. zies, who accompanied' CaptaiU^Vancouver, |a* the character of a naturalift, regarded as an entirely new genus. As they approached • th«£ C-c 2~ ■ 3i8 LA PEYROUSE'S WyMM American coaft, the winds became more Vtf&A lent, fogs obfcured their horizon, and they were annfeyed by frequent falls of drizzling j*afrn. In the Longitude of 236 deg. 8 min. in Latitude 39 deg. 20 min. quantities of drifted wood, grafs, and fea-weeds, were feen to float by the fhips while they failed on ||Shags, puffins, ducks, and other aquatic birds, were at the fame time feen flying about: And a change in the colour of the water Iikewife began to indicate the proximity of a Shallower fea. They, foon after, found themfelves on the coaft of New Albion. The darknefs of the atmofphere, here, allowed them only to obferve, that the fhore was rectilineal and unbroken, of a moderate elevation, and at fome diftance inwards into the country, fcreened by lofty mountains, which were overgrown with flately foreft-trees. This was not to be the northern termination of their voyage. They failed along the coaft for three or four leagues of diftance from it. Many agreeably picturefque landfcapes of wood and lawn, of hill and dale, amazingly diverfifi-. ed in form and combination, opened to their view on the land, while they advanced. In 3 1§ deg. 46§ min. N. Latitude, and in 235 dt.g. 57- min. E. Longitude, a point was difcovered, to "Whidh Captain Vancouver gave the name of Point St George. At an inconfiderable distance fouth from this point, he commenced in obedience to his inftrudtions from the Lords of the Admiralty, a very particular furvey of *he £©aft. :3|i|> Sailing onwards, they perceived the fhores to- fee formed by High precipices and deep chafmsv T&e. inland mountains faere generally covered-. HOUND $&£ WORLD. 3^ ^-ith fall pines anlf other <trees|§?iNb fnows appeared even on the bleakeft offhefe hills. Num- berlefs rocky iflets fkirted the fhoresl Under fthe fhelter of a projecting rock, in 42 deg. 38 fkiin. N. Lattitude, in 235 deg. .44 min. E. Longitude, they were -obliged to come to an- Mror, on Tuefday the 24 th of April. To the > jutting land of which this rock formed a part, Captain Vancouver gave the name of Cape Or- ford. Some natives of the coaft^iame out in -canoes to the fhips, while they lay in this fta- tion. Thefe people were gentle in their manners : the ©xp**efiion in their countenances was-; mild: ..heir complexion or colour was a light olive : thoir perfons were low and lender : in. their ears and nofes, they Wore fmall ornamenes» of bone : their hair was long, Tflack, clean,, l-neatly combed, and tied in a club behind ; in fome inftances, both 'before and behind : their "canons were redely hollowed, each from the 4 i'-At'j^ ^^{.jjF***- ^^^T^^i, trunk of a fiftgle tree, of capacioufnefs fufficient to bear eight perfons ; but unfit for going fanr mVLt to fea : Their garments were of fkins of fdeer, bears, foxes, or river-otters. ' ISbefe people brought out with them a few SrlSS^arii^es,, Pfca* barter ; afkirigi iron and beads "rj^eturn. They were fcrupuloufly honeft in -thoW'jfoaffie';; 1 nor did they either attempt theft \ or even r<5a— tely accept prefent uneH&mpenfatecl. To about: a league northward Atom Cape Oxford, clufte^s; of -ocky iflets continue to fkirt the^fhores* -A ftraight fandy beach tfcten fucceeds-^and, behind it, the country ;riles- %ith a mountainous s elevation. -On the 26th our voyagers refumed thdfrp&$-» igrefs and their furvey. Steep craggy cliffs fogM w— M $2<J LA PEYROUSE S- VOYAGE appeared to define $|e fea-fhore -, fcbeyond them, the land prefented ragged ftoney mountains, and deep chafms. They paffed the Cape Gregory, Cape Perpetua, and Cape Fowlweath- er, of Cook.. At funfet, on- Thurfday the 26th ©f February, they arrived within fight of Cape Look-out, fo named by Captain Meares, in 45 deg. 32 min. N~Lat. in 236 deg.i 1 min. E. Longi From that Cape, wood covered mountains, of confiderable altitude,extend for about to leagues northward. As they advanced, the land prer fented the interefting profpect of a wooded country, of moderate elevation, diversified by knolls, hills, and mountains, and exhibiting ev- erv indication of a foil uncommonly fertile. In their progrefs, they anrived, on Saturday, the 28th within fight of a hkherto unnoticed point,* 47 deg. 22 riritj» N» Lat, in E. Long. 235 deg. 58^ min.. en which was conferred- the appella-i tion of Point Grenville. On the fame day, theyi came within view of an ifle, which thev believe<di to be the fame which had, before,.received the name of Destruction Isle, from Mr. Barclay, who commanded a veffel in the fur-trade "~r Its fituation rs in. 47 degt 37 min. N. Latitude, in 235 degi 49 min. E. Longitude. From Cape-i Or ford to Deftruction Ifle, no inhabitants had been feen by our navigators on the coaft* Some: canoes were obferved, paddlfog round this defi&f ifle. It is larger than any of the more fouthern i^ets, which Captain Vancouy ver had obfferve4*4n~ thefe Latitudes. It may be about, a league in circumference, is level at its top, and exhibits no product worthy of notice, fave Qn£5r©ne'©r two dwarf-tracsatieack ^RO.tTND THE;WORLD,* $VL Art-American ve^eri in the fur-trade, was feen near, bv our voyagers* foon after they had jp.affed.Deftr.u6lion Ifle. Her .apme was the Columbia of Bofton, Robert Gray commanded. From Mr.,Gray was obtained fome ufeful information concerning fome arms of the fea, lying farther north, which entered far inland, and concerning the treachery of Wicana-nish, a oar tive chieftain of Queen Charlotte's Isles, of which Mr. Gray, with his crew and veffel had jbeen almoft made the prize. A mountain, with two very lofty and pi£turefque fummits,,which rwere covered with fnows, and which had their bafes at an elevation, that, though ljcfrwer than they, was ftill very lofty, about this time attra'^- ed the notice of Captain Vancouver, as the moft remarkable that he had hitherto feen on the A- merican coaft. It might perhaps be that which Mr. Meares has named Mount Olymrus : But .the dufky obfeurity of the atmofphere made it, sit this time, impoffible to fafcertain its fituation writh precifion. Several villages were, foon after, difcovered to fie thinly fcattered along the ftiore.JJOur navigators foon found themfelves at the entrance of De Fuca'rsStreights* Jj They, -entered between Tatooche's Ifle, and a low .rock, to which Captain Vancouver was induced to give tlie name of R.ock Duncan. .Qn tfe& beach were fereral canoes*, but the progrefs of the fliips was too rapid to permit any of thofe to join them. The village of Claffet, which was perceived on the fhore, feemed confiderably populous. A rock, fuppofed to be the Pinnacle Rock, was feen, foon after our voyagers had en- teredrhe Streightsbeyond Tatooche's Ifle. On the evening of. the 2£fch of April, they anchoret ps- LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGE at the diftance of nine ntiles within the entrance -of the fuppofed Streights of De Fuca.^Defirou^' to explore thefe Streights through their whoj* -extent, they foon renewed their courfe, and fa%1 ed onwards to the well ward j while, on eithei hand, towards both the north and the- fouth,; there was land, which as it leemed, might be but divided projections of the fame continent. A low fandy point of land attracting their notice, as they failed on : They named it, from its fimilarity to Dungenefs, in the Britifh channel New Dungenefs. On the fouthern fide of the bay, they could fGon after, diftinguifh an Indian* village. They had already advanced farther iniS this inlet, than any former navigator was knowJap to have dene. They determined to explore it toy* its inmoft extremities.f|A port was feen, after; fome farther progrefs, to open to the fouthwar|lj They entered it ; found it to_afford fhelter to their veffels, and for themfelves, eafy accefs to water; and gave it the name of Port Difcovery. The country adjacent was of moderate elevation, beautifully diverfified by the interfperfion of hills with vales, and clothed with verdure of very pleafing afpect. On the fhore grew ftraw- berry-fhrubs, goofeberry, rafpberry, and currant- bufhes ; clovers, famphires, and fome coarfe grafles, were diffufed over the turf. All the vegetables appeared to flourifh r. itli a remarkably luxuriant growth. In a ftaticn fo commodious and agreeable, our voyagers were induced to reft, to refit their veffel and to perform fuch other labours as were requifite for their accommodation in the continuance of their voyage. Exploring the inlet farther to the fouth-weft, they difcovered another harbour, on which thef MIOUND THE WORLD. BM ieftowed the name of Port TownftiejJ|| They jrofecuted their difcoveries farther; and found, pwards the fouth-eaft and the fouth, a deep entrance, which wasnamed Admiralty Inlet -, and Irhich had its fouthern termination in a found, .hich was denominated Puget's Sound. The atives came down to them, while they examin- 1 thefe coafts ; behaved with inoffenfive gen- lenefs *, and eagerly engaged in tranfactions of raffic. The fma>ll-pox had recently made very Iruei ravages among thefe good people. All ihe furrounding country ftill prefented a fertile bil, a territory very agreeably diverfified in its hvel, a great luxuriance of vegetation, and ex- mfive woods, filled with the nobleft foreft-trees. Lt the eaftern coaft of the great bjiy,within the rtreights of De Fuca, Captain Vancouver, with ilr. Broughton, and their ofl/cers, went on pore, and formally took poffeilon of this track |f country^ which they believed themfelves to lave been the firft to difcover, in the name of txe Britifh Sovereign. r#From Admiraltv *nlet» laey turned their courfe northward. An ex- jsnfive territory, whether infuiaror continental, [aey did not yet know, now intervened on the reft, between their prefent courfe ancl the open Icean, from which they had entered De Fuca's Itreisfhts. To an extenfive ray, which opened. Is they advanced, into the eaftern continental fend, they gave the name of Biliingham's Bay. Tie paffage expanding,}as they proceeded northwards, into an extenfive gulpfy they gave it the la;*ic of the Gulph of Georgia It was again contracted into a ftreight ; fmall iflets were k1 re arid there interpofed : Kow to one fide, low to another, the fea was feen to penetrate 5H LA.PEYROUSE S VOYAGE ~with its arms to a confiderable depth into t^ land : The Streight winded away before them, with many curious meanderingsj to the N. the* -Wf. W. or the N. E. At laft, it permitted them to iffire out into the open main, by what was named Queen Charlotte's found ; and they learned thas it was a Great Ifle, the interjection of which, between the continental fhore and the open main, formed thofe Streights which* they had thus diligently explored. With difficulty efcaping from fhipwreck in Queen Charlotte's Sound, they failed, for a lhort way^ along the continental fhore, with no ifle dividing their i courfe from the open feas: Fitz- Jiugh's Sound, formed by^fles fronting the weftern fhore of the continent, next prefent* •Cd itfelf to their paffage. After examining this Sound, they returned more haftily, and without deviating from the common route, to the Sound c£ Nootka, on the weftern coaft of -the great ifle wl|ich they had difcovered. They reached Woody Point, in 50 deg. 6 min. N. Latitude, in 232 deg, 27 min. E. Longitude, ©n Monday the 27th of Auguft. On the following day, they arrived at the entrance of Nootka Sound. Captain Vancouver was now fr.iisfied ; that, by his examination of* the Streights of the pretended De Fuca, it was .fully ascertained j that there was not here any paffage between the Pacific- and the Atfant}b iDceans, dividing into two the American Continent. fill At Nootka Sound, Captain Vancouver was politely received by Senior Quadra, who com- tmandtid there ' for' his Catholic Maje.fty, the Kfng ©£ %aitiv Quadra'• was to furrcnder; J ROUND THE WORLD. m& /Vancouver was to receive, in his Sovereign's name, the furrendered pofleflions. A long fhow of negotiation paffed between the two officers. At^laft, Captain Vancouver learned, that, by the convention between the minifters of Spain and thofe of Great Britain, there was nothing to be furrendered, but the houfes which Britifh fub- je€ts had poffefled, at the bottom of the Sound, the ftores which they had depofited in thefe houfes, and the lands which they had herein- clofed and cultivated; that there was abfolutely no fuch houfes, ftores nor inclofed lands; and that, therefore the convention was perfectly il- [lufory, and the Britifh had no fuch furrenders to receive. Captain Vancouver had conceived the [whole territory of Nootka Sound, fo far as it was firft difcovered by Britifh navigators, to be junqueftionably a domain of the Britifh Empires, land had expected that the Spanifh ceffion was to [be made upon this principleA-He therefore re- pufed that furrender which alone Senior Quadra [would give ; protefted againft the,§panjifh inter- jpretation of the convention ; and prepared to panfmit to the Britifh Court a faithful account fof all that had paffed between himfelf and the Kpanifh commander. The Spaniards, in the piean time, treated the Britifh gentlemen, afltt |:he mips* companies, with the moftjjpourteoifc Mjfpitality. The kindeft and moft unfufpicjbus [ntercourfe of frijfndfhip, took place ..between [Captain Vancouver and Senior Quadra. They bilibciated in vifiting the natives, and receifjto peir vifi ts. Maquinn a or MaQgt$L%r&t$ne{'of the jrijacent county came ©ften^mong^em. -{ft. tad made a fecond fale t© the Snajniards of that mtotf which he had before fold to the £ri$h* 3 n6 LA PEYROUSE S VOYAGTE The Britifh were now, according to'Quadra's in* terpretation of the treaty, free to enter the Sound, and to acquire pefleffions: But the Spaniards were ftill to retain thofe poffeffions which they had purchafed, fortified, and cultivated. Thus unfuccefsful, in regard to the firft capital object of his expedit ion, Captain Vancouver 'h%A now only to pro ceed to accomplifh the others. He was joined at Nootka Sound by the ^Daedalus and the Chath am, he returned fbutfi^ ward. In the found he had veffels both English j and American ; and it appeared that the fur- trade was ftill profecut ed, on thefe coafts, with great enterprife and fu ccefs^He renewed tRei furvey of thefe coafts, from Nootka Sound totjiev coaft of New Albion. Other headlands, bays, .creeks, and iflets, unknown to former navigator!^ were difcovered in thofe parts, which had beenL the moft carelefly expl ored in Captain Vancouver's voyage northward. Every obfervation tended to confirm the fact, that, at leaft, within thefe latitudes, there was no paffage of communication between the Pacific and the Atlantic Oceans. The great river of Columbia, the exiftence of which, between 46* deg. and 4ydeg. N. Lat. had been mentioned by Captain Gray, was difcovered and examined. On the 14th of November, the Difcovery arrived fafe in the Spanifh harbour of San Francisco, in 39 deg. JM. Lat. where, by the good offices of his friend, , ^enior Quadra, Captain Vancouver foon experienced a kind and endearing hofpitality from -Ifle Spaniards.^The conduct of the miftiona* ■: t%s, in the converfion of the native Indians, and in the government of thofe whom they havf' converted, in a particular manner attracted foa ROUND THE WORtDi. 3*T noticei From San Francifco he foon proceeded to Monterey, where he was received by his frierSii JjSignior Quadra. The civilities of Quadra agreeably detained the Englifh voyagers for a fiiort while at Monterey. Mr. Broughton was oifpatched hence, home t© Britain, with letters^ informing the Lords of the Admiralty of the tranfactions atNootka-Sound. Lieutenant Her- geft, of the ftorefhip the Daedalus, had perifhed at Woahoo, by the treachery of the people of that ifle *, and Captain Vancouver found it now neceffary to revifit the Sandwich Ifles. He failed for them in the beginning of the year 1703^ On the 13th of February he arrived on the coaft of Owhyhee. Tamaahmaaha, chief or fove»eigo, ©f the ifle, Kahowmotoo like wife, and Tianna the fecondary chieftains, with all their BritinV friendswere received with joy, and liberalhofpital- ity. Provifions were obtained in great abundance : And prefents and commercial exchanges were given, which proved highly acceptable, no lefs than ufeful, to the natives. Two Englifh failors were found in the fervice of the fbyereigrx of Owhyhee, to whofe fervices Captain Vancouver acknowledges himfelf to have been not a littlesin^ebted. From Owhyhee, the Difcovery failed to vifit the other ifles. Every where, Captain Vancouver experienced a friendly reception, was affailed by no treachery of the natives, impreffed them with reverence, as well for himfelf and his companions, as for the whole- Britifh name. In Woahoa he was fo fortunate as to procure the murderers of Lieutenant Her^ gest t© be punifhed with death, by the authority of their chieftains. He attempted, in .vain,,, to. mediate a. peace between, the monarch. o£ $2$ LA PEY&OUSE's VOYAGE Owhyhee and thofe of'ffie others ifles', wht^i he IiadTorrrierly found at War, and between whdfn fioftilitres wer? ftill prolonged. He was however careful not toeenCourage theSfhoftilities, by furnifhing them With arms and ammunition, as liad been done by the captains of the trading Veffels. After refrefhing his crew for five or ^x weeks among them, and taking in adequate fupplies of the provifions which they afforded^ Captain Vancouver prepared to fail to the north- weft coaft of America, for the purpofe of following out that plan of nautical inveftigation and difcovery, Which his inftructions had marked put for him. He failed from the Sandwich Ifles on the qoth-of March. He held his courfe ftraight for the north- Weft coaft of America. On Saturday the* 18th Of May, he had advanced fo far along it, as to have arrived within fight of the great ifle of Quadra and Vancouver, the infular character of which was firft difcovered in his former voyage. On the 2Gth he reached the Sound of Nootka. Lieutenant rugef in the Chatham had arrived here in the month of April; had left letters for Captain Vancouver ; and had then failed northward. The Spaniards ftill kept pofTeflion of their eftablifhment at Nootka Sound ; but offered to the Britifh commander, every accommodation which they could poffibly afford, for his voyage. The native chief Maquinna was iikewife glad to fee again his Britifh acquaintance. Maquinna's daughter had, during the ab- f-:nce of Captain Vancouver, been proclaimed heirefs of hi3 dominions, and had been betrothed to the fon of Wacananish, a neighbouring thief. Without tarrying here for any length KOtrND THE WORLU. of timev; they foon renewed their voyage; and^*> on the 24th of May, foundr themfelves in 5 h ©.eg. 9 min. N. Lat. in 231 deg. 58 min. E. Long. A deep inlet into the continental coaft" being difcovered,as'they advanced from this Jatkude, received the name of Burke's Canal. A people, fpeaking a language different from' that of the people of Nootka, and in features re- jfembling the northern Europeans, vifited them, while they, failed along the coaft in thefe latitudes. Iflands, founds, ftreights, bays, arms of the fea defcending far into the land, met theitr notice, as they proceeded: They were ftill careful to explore the continental coafts King's Ifland,—Princes Royal Ifles, at fome diftance weftward,—ghieen Charlotfs Ifles, no new difcovery,—Pitfs Archipelago,—the Ifland of Re- villa Gigedo,—Prince of Wales* Archipelago,— Duke of York's Ifland,—Admiralty Ifle,—were the moft remarkable ifles interpofed to protect the continental coaft from the waves of the Pacific Ocean, which Captain Vancouver and his afliftants difcovered in their progrefs from 51 deg. 45 min. to 57 deg. 30 min. N. Lat. New Albion,—New Georgia^—New Hanover,—New Cornwall, were the names now and formerly bellowed on thefe diftricts of the adjacent continental coaft which have been difcovered by Britons; While thefe difcoveries, were profecuted, the natives of the coaft often vifited Captain Vancouver and his companions. Once or twice they fhewed difpofitions for hof- tility; and fkirmifhes,. in which they were worfted, took place. Upon all other occafions, their conduct was friendly ; and they were ea~ » 4 ger to traffic with the ftrangers. After the mid& Dd2 •^o Oj' LA PEVROUSE S VOYAGE of September 1793, Captain Vancouver found it neceffary to fhape his courfe backward to the fouth, deferring the farther examination ©f this coaft till the following year. Returning, he arrived at Nootka-Sound, on the 5 th of O&ober. On the 8th, having made fome neceffary repairs, and left letters for any veffel that fhould afrive here with difpatches for him, he renewed his voyage fouthward. A part of the coaft of New Albion was again particularly explored, as they failed on. On the ift of November, they reached Monterey. To his aftonifhment, he here met with fuch an unhof- pitable reception from Signior Arrilaga the commandant, that he was obliged to depart without refrefhing his crews, and refitting the fhips, as he had intended. After fome farther examination of thefe fhore s, he thought proper to fteer for the Sandwich Ifles. At another Presidio however, before his departure from the American coaft, Jie found a more courteous reception, and was permitted to refrefh the crews on fhore. On Wednefday the 8th of January 17^4, he arrived fafe on the coaft of Owhyhee. Tamaanmaaha, the fovereign of the ifle, foon honoured our voyagers with a vifit. He accompanied them to the bay of Karakakoa. The diftin£tion with which they treated him, in preference to Tianna and the other chieftains, made him very much their friend. The kindeft entertainment, the moft friendly confidence, the moft abundant fupply of provifions, from the natives, made Captain Vancouvor and his friends exceedingly happy during thei|ftay at Owhyhee. At laft Tamaahmaaha refolded to make a ceffion of L_j ROUND THE \V0Rt»s $m the whole ifle of Owhyhee, to Captain Vancouver,; in the name of his fovereign, the King of Great Britain. Captain Vancouver, fenfible that thefe and the other South Sea iilands were becoming,1 every day, of higher and higher importance to- European, and efpecially to Britifh commerce, did not refufe the offered ceffion. The Owhy- heean Chiefs underftood ; that, in confequence of this ceffion of their ifle to the Britifh monarch, they fhould henceforth enjoy the protection of Britain againft all their foes, whether of the neighbouring ifles or of any other country, fhould be frequently vifited by friendly fhips, fhould receive many of fuch prefents as might contribute either to gratify their caprice, or to enrich their ifle with new animals, new vegetables, new arts *, and fhould be obliged, in confequence of all this, only to own the fovereignty of the Britifh monarch, and to provide plentiful fupplies of provilions for a fair price, to Britons arriving among them. It feems indeed to be abfolutely neceffary, that the people of all thefe ifles fhould be taken under Britifh protection, to fave them from thofe mifchiefs which •are introduced among them by the conduct of different mercantile adventurers*?,. From Owhyhee, Capt. Vancouver proceeded to others of the Sandwich Ifles, at which, he obtained a fupply of vegetables. Onthe 15th of March 1793,.he again failed for the N. W. coaft of America.. In the beginning of April, they had^ reached the American coaft*||They traced the coaft between the latitude at which they had terminated their furvey. in the year 1793 and the 62 deg. N. Lat. They purfued it where it bends away to the weftward j LA PEYRQU^E'S VOYAGE entered Cook's Inlet, Prince William's-Sound,' and thofe N» W.|s.diftrict:s, where the Ruffians from Siberia have made fettlements for the pur- pofe of the. fur-trade; difcovered ifles,, bays, founds, and headlands, which had efcaped the notice of Cook and all former navigators ; and afcertained that there was, in thefe extreme northern latitudes, no paffage by which fhips might crofs over into the northern Atlantic Ocean. Having traced all thefe moft northern inlets to their extremities deep in the continental coaft ; our navigators then bent their courfe fouthward, examining the coaft ftill with equal care, down to where they had already completed the furvey of it. From Cook's Inlet and Prince William's Sound, they found the coaft to be fronted by comparitively few iflCs, down to the northern extremity of .that which they had named King George the Third's Archipelago. Having completed the furvey of thefe coafts, and afcertained the non-ekiftence of. the long- fought .N. W, paffage, ourv©yagers returned to Nootka.. They were hofpitably received by the- Spaniards; and gave great pleafure t® the chieftains, by vifiting. them at their villages. From Nootkaa they failed to Monterev, and found ■ J 4 * there a more.hofpitabie reception than on the. preceding year.. The Convention had now been explained agreeably to Captain Vancouver's views.; but he received not notice of this, till it: was too late for him to-flay to receive the fur- render. Sailing fouthward from Monterey, he paffed among fome of the equatorial ifles adjacent to the American coaft.. At Valparaifo,, he.was received with kind.hofpitality; And the-j ROUND THE WORLD. 333 invitation of the Spanifh governor Higgins led him to vifit St. Jag© the capital of Chili. Renewing his voyage, he, in due time, reached St. Helena, where he captured the Macaf- far Dutch Eaft India-man. From St. Helena, he renewed his voyage in company with his Majesty's fhip, the Sceptre, and a convoy of merchant fhips;I| On Saturday the 13th of September 1795, the Difcovery was fafely moored in the river Shannon; and Captain Vancouver fet out for London. Only fix of the fhip's company had, by difeafe and accidents, perifhed in the courfe of fo long an expedition. On the 17th of October, the Chatham alfo arrived with all her fhip's company. Captain Vancouver himfelf is fince dead. His brother is the editor of the account of his voyage. But it was ahnoft wholly prepared for the prefs by the Captaiix himfelf. m END. —IHZ^_^n£~^|j Purchased A^.^Q^^ From .^Cfh^ Place of Purchase ..j |Price,^1! COURTLAND BENSON Conservation Treatment La Peyrouses Voyage Linen overcast onto shoulders and inserted into split boards. Inner joints repaired with Japanese paper. Spine rebacked and corners repaired with Hewitt's calfskin. Leather treatedl with potassium lactate and leather dressing. March 19B2
Page 122 misnumbered as page 104. Page 163 misnumbered as page 125. Page 249 misnumbered as page 225. Other Copies: http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/2051663
Books
II-0304-xiv
English
Vancouver : University of British Columbia Library
Edinburgh : J. Moir
Edinburgh : T. Brown
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University of British Columbia. Library. Rare Books and Special Collections. F5816 .L26 1798
Voyages around the world
A voyage round the world : which was peformed in the years 1785, 1786, 1787, and 1788, by M. de la Peyrouse : abridged from the original French journal of M. de la Peyrouse, which was lately published by M. Milet-Mureau, in obedience to an order from the French government. To which are added : a voyage from Manilla to California, by Don Antonio Maurelle : and an abstract of the voyage and discoveries of the late Captain G. Vancouver. Embellished with four fine engravings
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