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British Columbia Historical Books Collection
Portlock, Nathaniel, 1748?-1817
"A few copies printed on heavy paper with the 5 ornithological plates coloured. Beresford's account of the voyage (no.3 7) complements this. In some bibliographies the various editions, abridgements and translations have been confused. Appendix: pp[i]-xl. Tables of the route of the King George and Queen Charlotte, the variations of the compass and meteorological observations during the voyage." -- Strathern, G. M., & Edwards, M. H. (1970). Navigations, traffiques & discoveries, 1774-1848: A guide to publications relating to the area now British Columbia. Victoria, BC: University of Victoria, p. 239-240.
xii, 384, xl pages : map (folded), illustrations ; 32 cm
application/pdf
VOTAGE ROUND THE WORLD-, BUT MORE PARTICULARLY TO THE NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA PERFORMED IN I785, I786, I787, AND 1788, IN THE KING GEORGE JND $UEEN CHARLOTTE, CAPTAINS PORTLOCK and DIXON. EMBELLISHED WITH TWENTY COPPER-PLATES. DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION, TO HIS MAJESTY. By CAPTAIN NATHANIEL PORTLOCK. LONDON: fcPRINTED FOR JOHN STOCKDALE, OPPOSITE BURLINGTON-HOUSE, PICCADILLY; AND GÏORGE OOULTDING, JAMES STREET, COVENT GARDEN. M,DCC,LXXXIX. . A TO THE K I N VJ. - sir, |\/- : ^ .-. -..., -jjij J [T has been the invariable object of your -*- Majefty's reign to enrich your people, by inciting their induftry; to refine them, by encouraging the arts; to enlighten them, by o O J O J J the cultivation of fcience 5 and to fecure their enjoyments, by ftrengthëning the co" ning But to a people, whofe renown and whofe fafety are derived from their (hipping an A 2 z navigators iii ! DEDICATION. navigators, the voyages of difcovery, which your Majefty fucceflively projected and atchieved, may be regarded as ftill more ufeful to your fubje£ts, and beneficial to mankind. Englifh feamen have been always celebrated for their bravery : your Majefty has, by thole voyages, made them more fkilful. They have ever been adventurous j but your Majefty has, by this wife policy, made them more fafe. Englifh failors would at all times undertake and perform, on every fea, what mortals could execute : your Majefty has taught them by thofe falutary trials how to preferve their health in every climate. Yet, whatever glory and benefit have been thus derived to Great Britain, your Majefty's difintereftednefs hath imparted, with a generous philanthropy, to every nation. It was to thofe voyages (may I be permitted to add?) that ï owe the perfeel: health, the verance, and the fkill, however incon- mabled me to conduce the adventure fiderabl e5 which DEDICATION. adventure that is recounted in the following fheets. But it was your Majefty's beneficence, which at all times has ftudioufly noticed the humbleft. merit, that allowed me the honour of dedicating this narrative to your Majefty, as a tribute of the unalterable gratitude and profound fubmiflion, with which I fhall continue, through life, Your Majesty's LONDQTr, April 19, 1789. moft faithful Subject, and moft dutiful Servant, NATHANIEL PORTLOCK. CONTE CHAP. I. QHORT Account of the different Perfons who have engaged in the Fur Trade—The King George's Sound Company eftablilhed—Two Veffels purchafed—The Complements of their Crews, and Names' of the Officers-—Paffage from Gravefend to Portfmouth—In danger off the Cafkets—Arrival of the Ships at Guernfey, Page i CHAP. II. Various Refrefhments procured at Guernfey—Leave that Place,, and proceed on the Voyage—Remarkable Rock at the Eaft End of Madeira—Send Difpatches from thence—Bonavifta—Mayo—Sal—fl Arrival at Saint Jago—Occurrences there—Refrefhments to be met with—Departure from thence-—Precautions againft the Rain and fultry Weather near the Equator—Fortunate Prefervation of a Boy who fell over-board—Pafs a vaft Quantity of Shrimp Spawn—Arrival at Port Egmont—Falkland's Iflands,, - - io CHAP. III. Various Employments in Port Egmont—Ruins of a Town difcovered-—- Meet with two Ships employed in the Oil Trade—Method of extracting Oil from the Blubber of the- Sea Elephant—Several Birds defcribed—Refrefhments obtained there—Leave Port Egmont and proceed to States Bay—Difference between the Sea Elephant and Sea Lion pointed out—Remains of a Wreck difcovered™Depart from Falkland's Iflands and proceed on the Voyage—Staten's Land— II Stormy* yiu C O N T NTS. Ml Stormy Weather in doubling Cape Horn—Pick up a Number of Turtle—Fruitlefs Search for Los Majos—Arrive in Sight of Owhyhee, - - - Page 30 CHAP. IV. Range along the Coaft of Owhyhee—Arrival in Karakakooa Bay— Unruly Behaviour of the Natives—Leave Karakakooa Bay—Refrefhments procured along the Coaft—Difappointed in coming to anchor at Morotoi—Arrival at Woahoo—Fruitlefs Search for a Watering-place—Supplied with Water by the Natives—Refrefhments obtained—Departure from Woahoo—Account of the prefent Government among the Sandwich Iflands—rPafs Atoui—Arrival at Oneehow—Tranfa&ions there, 60 YWi M 1m CHAP. V. Continuation of Tranfactions at Oneehow—Method of falting Pork in tropical Climates—Departure from Oneehow—Method of brewing the fweet Root—Arrive in fight of the Coaft of America— Stand on for Cook's River—Meet with fome Ruflian Settlers— Arrival in Cook's River—Vifited by the Ruflian Chief—Anchor in Coal Harbour—Various Employments there—Abundance of Salmon—Vifit the Ruflian Settlement—Their Mode of Liying de- fcribed—Proceed further up the River, - - 86 CHAP. VI. Indians come to the Ships with Furs—Shew a Difpofition for thieving—Bring Salmon to barter—Short Defcription of the Country near Trading Bay—Climate—Produce—The Ships leave Trading Bay, and proceed down the River—Requefted by the Indians to join with them againft the Ruffians—Prefents given at parting Leave Cook's River, and proceed for Prince William's Sound—Prevented from making it by bad Weather—Proceed along the Coaft .■ Difappointed in meeting with Crofs Sound, - - n% 1 CHAP, CONTENTS. m CHAP. VIL ituklefs Attempt io fall m withothe Bay of Iflands—^Proceed along the Coaft towards King George's Sound—Unfuccefsful Attempt to make . it—-PafTage from the Coaft of America to Sandwich Iffands—Saint Maria la Gorta—Arrival off Owhyhee—Refrefhments obtained— Plan of future Proceedings—Departure from Owhyhee—Pick up a Canoe, with fome Indians in Diftrefs—Anchor at Woahoo^ Page 132,- C HAP. VIII. Vifited' by Taheeterre—Pernicious Effects of the Yava-root—Transactions at Woahoo:—Wood purchafed—An Eatooa erected—The Chiefs make offerings to their Deities—Meditate an Attack on the Ships—The King fhewn the Effeëfc of Fire-arms—Two Indians embark for Atoui-—Take leave of Taheeterre and the Prieft— Departure from Woahoo—Anchor in Wyrnoa Bay, Atoui—Ex- curfion on.Shorer S - M 154 C H A P. IX. Variety of Refrefhments procured—Vifited by the King—Prefents-- given and received—Two Natives from Woahoo introduced to Ta-aao—Deplorable Situation of an old Warrior—Ceremony of the Tabooara—Excurfion on Shore, accompanied ' by Abbenooe— A remarkably large Shark caught-7Grateful Behaviour of Nee- heowhooa—Arrival at Oneehow—Obliged to cut the Cables in a Gale of Wind—Leave three Invalids on Shore—Anchor again in Yam Bay—The Sick return on board—Leave Oneehow and arrive at Atoui—Remarkable Circumftance of a Woman with a Puppy at her Breaft—Chiefs exercife with Spears—--Houfe built for Captain Portlock—Departure from Atoui—Arrival at Oneehow—Recover the King George's Anchors—Attempt made on the Life of an Atoui Ghief—Final Departure from the Sandwich Iflands, 174 CHAP. X CONTENTS CHAP. X. Paffage from the Sandwich Iflands to the Coaft of America—Good Effects of Beer made from the Sweet Root—Arrival at Montague Ifland—Anchor in Hanning's Bay—Boats fent on a trading Expedition—Meet with a Veffel from Bengal—Their diftreffing Situation — Refrefhments fent to the Nootka—Plan of future Proceedings— Vifited by a powerful Tribe of Indians—Their Propenfity to Theft— Departure from Montague Ifland—The Ships feparate—Arrival of the King George in Hinchinbrooke» Cove, - - Page 201 CHAP. XL Indians vifit the Ship with Sea-otter Skins—Boats fent on a trading Expediaon—Plundered by the Indians—Return of the Boats—Arrival of the Nootka—Affift in getting her ready for Sea—Longboat fent to Cook's .River—[Departure of the Nootka-—Long-boat's Return—Sent a fécond Time—Vifited by different Tribes -of Indians—Various Employments carried on—Abundance of Salmon, Herrings, and Crabs—Arrival of 'the Long-boat—Departure from Port Etches, - 226 CHAP. XII. Run along the Coaft of Montague Ifland—Short Account of Prince William's Sound—Defcription of the Inhabitants—Their Perfons Manners—Drefs—Difeafes—Ornaments—Food—Cookery-^Situation for a Settlement—Produce—Weapons—Hunting Implements Specimen of the Language—Proceed along the Coaft—Anchor in Port- lock's Harbour—Intercourfe with the Natives—Long-boat fent on a trading Expedition—Vifited by a diftant Tribe of Indian?, 244 CHAP. XIII. A new Party of Traders from the Eaft—Under the Neceffity of exchanging Hoftages—Part of the Ship's Company go on Shore— 10 Meet CONTENTS. Meet with Indian Tea—Vifit the Natives at their own Refidence— Their Habitations and Manner of Living defcribed—An Account of the Spaniards having been on the Coaft, and left the Small-pox- —The Long-boat returns from an Expedition to the Eaftward— Examine the Sound—Another Vifit from our North Weft Friends— Ceremonies to be obferved before commencing Trade—Jofeph "Woodcock lent as an Hoftage—Three Days in the Country—An Account of the Natives—Their Difpofition, Ornaments, Drefs, and Language—Obfervations on the Advantages likely to accrue from à Settlement on the Coaft—Some Thoughts of an Expedition by Land—Leave Portlock's Harbour, è » Page 268 CHAP. XIV. Paffage from the Coaft to Sandwich Iflands—Tranfaclions there—Letters received from Captain Dixon and Mr. Rofs—Some Particulars received from Taa-boo-a-raa-ne reflecting the Death of Captain Cook—Defcription of the White Tern—Cruelty of the Chiefs to their Inferiors^—Obfervations on a Trade to Botany Bay from thefe Iflands—Final Departure from them—Paffage to China—Arrival there, - - - - 297 CHAP. XV. An Account of a Court of Enquiry held at the Requeft of Captain Greer of the Belvidere, on his People who mutinied in his Absence—The Court's Determination thereon—Punifhment inflicted on the Mutineers—Account of meeting with Tyaana at China— His Behaviour there—Attention paid him—Returns to his own Country with a valuable Cargo—A fhort Defcription of his Perfon, - 327 C H A I O N CHAP. Leave Macao—Proceed through the Straits of Bane* aad Siinda-— Anchor at North Ifland—The Veflèls part Company—Arrival at Saint Helena—Departure from thence—Five of the People nearly» poifoned by eating Fifh—Arrival in England—A Lilt of Pleats, Birds, and Foflils feen in Cook's River, « » Page 364 A VOY. 1 il» I \r A Y A Cj JE TO THE North Weft Coaft of America. CHAP. I. Account of the different Perfons who firft carried on the Pur 'Trade.—The King George s Sound Company efta- blijhed.—Two Veffels purchafed.—The Complements of their Crews\ and Names of the Officers.—Paffage from Gravefend to Portfmouth.—Employments there.—Departure from Portfmouth.—In Danger near the Cafkets. —Arrival at Guernfey. rpHOUGH that illufrrious navigator, Captain Cook, chap. J[ did not, with all his fkill and all his perfeverance, obtain the great object of his voyage to the weftern coaft of America, the difcovery of a practicable pafîage from the North Pacific to the North Atlantic Ocean, he furnifhed philofophy with many additional facts, and he opened to commerce feveral extenfive prolpects. The B voyages CHAP. I. fl&'i A VOYAGE TO THE voyages of the prefent reign, as they were profecuted with views the moft difinterefted, were expofed to the. world without referve. And every nation and every individual had thus an opportunity of forming new defigns, either for the cultivation of fcience, or for the advantage of traffic. If Great Britain owe fomething to France for her dif- coveries in former times,, the French are much indebted, in the prefent, to the Britifh mariners for laying open the whole globe to human eyes and to human induftry. The French king, with a noble emulation, feems to have fent out feveral officers with fuitable accommodations, to follow the tracts of the fuccefîive voyages. which had been fo happily atchieved under his Majefty's aufpices; though an Englifh feaman may be allowed to fay, that the French navigators failed in their wake at a great diftance aftern. No fooner were the voyages of Cook, of Clerk, of Gore, and of King accomplished, and their narratives publifhed, than a new expedition was, in 1785, difpatched from France, under the conduct of Meffrs. Peyroufe and De Langle, in order to glean on this ample field what the misfortune .of Cook had left unattained. As early indeed as 1781, a well-known individual, Mr. Éolts, attempted an adventure to the North Pacific Ocean from the bottom of the Adriatic, under the emperor's flag ; but this feeble effort of an imprudent man failed prematurely, owing to caufes which have not yet been fufficiently explained. The project of Bolts appears to have been early adopted by the Britifh fubjects who are fettled in A fia, and who ftand high in an active 5 age NORTH WEST COAST, OF AMERICA. age for knowledge and for enterprife. They were natu- c HJ rally ftruck with the fuggeftion of captain Cook, what a gainful trade might be carried on from America to China for furs. And a brig of fixty tons, with twenty men, under the command of James Hanna, was, in purfuit of this flattering object:, difpatched from the river of Canton in April 1785 ; and after coafting Northward, and tra- verfing the Southern extremity of Japan, this brig arrived in the fubfequent Auguft at Nootka Sound, the American mart for peltry. Whatever may have been the fuccefs of Hanna in 1785, he performed, m a larger vefîèl, a fimilar voyage in 1786. In this year, the merchants of Bombay fent two veâels under the direction of James Strange, while the traders of Bengal difpatched two fhips, which were commanded by the lieutenants Mears and Tipping, to the American coaft for furs, in the hope of Indian profits. Thefe fevergj adventures, the gains of which were no doubt greatly amplified, incited to fimilar pur- fuits the torpid fpirit of the Portugueze at Macao, whofe fathers had been the difcoverers, the conquerors,, and monopolifts of the Eaft. A P* m These enterprifes have proved extremely important to the world, though their profits, confidering the capital and the rifques, were not envioufly -great. Thefe enterprifes, however, by enlarging the limits of difcovery, made navigation more fafe in the North Pacific Oeean. They familiarifed the South Sea iflanders tô European perfons, and manners, and traffic. They taught the American favages, that ftrength muft always be fubordi- nate to difcipline : and, having difcovered the Ahooa B 2 Indians 41 ■ lull H'ïllllll llll I II I Hi: I H; Pi A P. A VOYAGE TO THE Indians on the borders of Nootka Sound, who had fo far advanced from their favage ftate as to refufe to fell to Mr. Strange, for any price, the peltry which they had already engaged to Mr. Hanna, thefe enterprifes have afcertained this exhilarating truth to mankind, that civilization and morals muft for eyer accompany each other. In the effluxion of ages, periods often arife, when mankind, by a confentaneous fpirit, purfue with ardour analogous enterprifes. At the fame epoch Columbus and Gama were employed, the one in difcovering the lands in the Weft, the other in exploring the regions of the Eaft. In the prefent times the Britifh, the French, and the Spaniards, have, at the fame moment, bulled themfelves in fearching every coaft and every creek, with the glorious purpofe of benefiting tfcye human race, by adding to their happinefs. While thofe adventures were thus performed from the Eaftern extremities of Afia to the Weftern fhores of America, private perfons undertook a more arduous voyage of a like kind from England. It was in May 1785, that Richard Cadman Etches and other traders entered into a commercial partnerfhip, under the title of The King George s Sound Company, for carrying on a fur trade from the Weftern Coaft of America to China. For this purpofe they obtained a licenfe from the South Sea Company, who, without carrying on any traffic themfelves, ftand in the mercantile way of more adventurous merchants. They procured alfo a fimilar licenfe from the Eaft India Company, who at the fame time engaged to give them a freight of Teas from Canton. This enterprife of The King George s Sound Company alone evinces what Englifh copartner- fhips NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 5 fhips and Englifh capitals could undertake and execute, c HrA p- were they lefs oppofed by prejudice and reftrained by monopolies. In order to execute this defign, The King George s Sound Company purchafed a fhip of 320 tons, and a fnow of 200 tons ; having thus a fize and burden which captain Cook, after adequate trials, recommended as the fitteft for diftant employments ; and which, owing to the merchants experience, England happily enjoys in the greateft numbers. Thefe vefiels were immediately put into dock, in order that they might be completely fitted for fo long a voyage. With all the fkill and diligence of the fhipwrights of the Thames, it was not, however, till the 8 th of July, that thefe vefTels were moored at Dept- ford, for the convenience of fitting their rigging, engaging feamen, and taking on board fuch ftores and other ne- ceffaries as were judged needful for a voyage of fuch length and variety; The beft provifions were purchafed, as being the cheapeft in the end ; and great attention was ufed in providing thofe articles which were thought moft likely to preferve the health of the crews, by adding to their comforts. In the mean time the owners appointed me commander of the larger veffel, and of the expedition; and George Dixon of the fmaller : both of us having accompanied captain Cook in his laft voyage into the Pacific Ocean, were deemed moft proper for an adventure which required no common knowledge and experience. Other officers of competent talents were at the fame time appointed, in order that they might know each other and facilitate the 'm* outfit. SES3 6 A VOYAGE TO THE qutfit *. The novelty oî this enterprife attracted -the notice of feveral perfons, who were eminent either for talents or ftation, and who promoted this voyage by their countenance, or ftrengthened the company by their approbation. When Sir Jofeph Banks and Lord Mulgrave, Mr. Rofe and Sir John Dick, came on board, the Secretary of the Trea- fury named the largeft vefîèl The King George* and the Prefident of the Royal Society called the fmalleft The ^ueen Charlotte. Exclufive of the profits of traffic, or the advantages of difcovery, this voyage was deftined to other national objeâs. Several gentlemen's fons, who had fhewn an inclination to engage in a feafaring life, were put under my care, for the purpofe of being early initiated in the knowledge of a profeffion which requires length of experience, rather than fupereminence of genius -f. I at * King George. I»*: m Officers and Men. Captaig, - Mates, - Surgeon, - Affiliant Traders, Boatfwain, - Carpenter, Seamen and Boys, Officers Names. Nathaniel Portlock. f William M'Leod. "j John Chriftleman. £ Samuel Hay ward. James Hoggam i Robert Hill. I William Wilbye. - Archibald Brown. Robert Home. - 50 Tetal, 59 Queen Charlotte. Officers and Men. Captain, Mates, - Surgeon, Affiftagt Trader, Steward, Boatfwain, - Carpenter, - Seamen, Officer* Name». George Dixon. 5 John Ewen Carewv James Turner. C George White. William Lauder. William Beresford. Henry Forrefter. - John Gatenby. ■ John Sadler. 24 Total, 33, f Walter Adams was fent out by Sir John Dick. John Penetire, by Mr. Salt, deputy governor of the South Sea Company. John Gore, by Captain Gore of Greenwich Hofpital. David Gilmore, by Mr. Ch. Gilmore, Charles Gilmore, by Mr. S. Gilmore. William Biron, by Mr. Edward Biron. John Webb, ? , ,, „ William Kirby, i h7 Mr' Hanh'*g- Thomas "Thompfon, by Mr. Wilbye. the III I NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. the fame time engaged William Philpot Evans and Jofêph Woodcock, two of the pupils of Mr. Wales, the mafter of the mathematical fchool in Chrift's Hofpital, who were at once able to affift in teaching the boys the rudiments of navigation, and might be ufefully employed in taking views of remarkable lands, and in conftructing charts of commodious harbours. t 1785. Auguft. Having got moft of our flores on board, we proceeded down the river, and arrived off Gravefend on the 29th of Auguft. This evening I read articles of agreement refpect- ing the voyage to both the fhips companies, which fome of them at firft refufed to fign ; but, after a proper explanation, they all cheerfully confentèd, except two of my own crew, whom I immediately difcharged ; as I had re- folved to engage no feaman who was not perfectly fatisfied with the articles, and altogether contented with his ftation. The next morning the crews were paid their river* wages, with a month's advance ; and, having ftood towards the Downs with a frefh South Wefterly breeze, the fhips came to an anchor the fame evening in Margate •Roads. Early in the morning of the 31ft we got under fail and proceeded towards the Downs, having ftill a frefh breeze at South Weft ; and at eight the fame morning we anchored off Deal in 8 r fathom water ; the South Foreland Point bearing South Weft, diftant five miles, and Deal Caftle North Weft, two miles diftant. We lay at anchor during the ift September, employed in .procuring frefh beef and various refrefhments. f||j{j| Next Auguft. Wedndef» w., September. Thurfday f. Il III 8 CHAP. I. 1785. September. Friday 2. Saturday 3. Sunday 4. Wednef. 7. A VOYAGE TO THE Next morning at one o'clock we weighed anchor, and! ftood towards the channel ; but meeting with gales at once frefh and contrary, we were obliged to anchor under Dungenefs in the evening of the 3d, with the light-houfe bearing South Weft by Weft, about four miles diftant. , A remarkable circumftance happened whilft we lay here: Charles Gilmore (one of the boys under my care), being at the maintopmaft-head, attempted to come down by the topmaft backftay; but lofing his hold when he was almoft at the top, he fell directly into the main chains j yet he providentially received no hurt, and was not the leaft frighted with his fall. At three o'clock in the morning of the 4th we weighed anchor and ftood towards Spithead, where we arrived at one o'clock on the feventh. * During our ftay here, the crews were conftantly ferved with frefh beef and plenty of vegetables ; the employments which principally engaged us were, fetting up the rigging, and replacing the water that had been expended. Several fpare anchors, and a variety of fuch other ftores were purchafed, which we judged would be neceffary during fo long, a voyage, and with which we had not been fupplied in the Thames. Thurf. 15. Friday 16. Every neceffary bufinefs being completed, on the 15th all hands were employed in getting the veffels ready for fea; and at fèven o'clock in the morning of the 16th we got under fail with light variable winds. By noon we were clofe in with Dunnofe, which caufed us to ply occafionally. At NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 9 At four in the afternoon, having a frefh gale, and very hazy c Hr A p- weather, we bore up for St. Helen's, and foon afterwards <—'-—» anchored in St. Helenas road, Bembridge Point bearing September. South Weft by Weft, three miles diftant. Friday j$ âturday At fix in the morning of the 1.7th we wejg^ed, ^9m5 made fail with moderate variable winds, the weather hazy with rain; at noon St. Catherine's Point bore North Weft, five miles diftant. From this to the 19th, we had little variety; the weather in general was thick and hazy, with frequent fhowers of rain. About feven o'clock in the Monday 19 evening of the 19th, the Cafkets bore Eaft North Eaft three leagues diftant ; it being then nearly calm, a rapid tide fet us ftrongly towards them ; and at one time we were not two miles diftant from thofe very dangerous rocks; however, before nine o'clock, the tide turned, and at ten we could juft difcern the lights, bearing South Weft by South, diftant about three leagues. Mm w At ten in the morning of the 20th we faw the ifland Tuefday2o. of Guernfey bearing South, at the diftance of three or four leagues. Our latitude at noon was 490 39' North, the North Eaft point of Guernfèy bearing South South Eaft, five miles diftant. At fix o'clock we came to anchor in Guernfey Road with the beft bower, in 13 fathom water, the caftle bearing Weft, by South half a mile, and St. Martin's Point South South Weft, one mile diftant. We moored with the % edge. to the Eaft South Eaft. 7 !•: i 1? C MMiMi -^U&UMWWWj^t^k^^ io A VOYAGE TO THE Pii 11. CHAP. II. 1785. September. Saturday 24. CHAP. II. Various Refrefhments procured at Guernfey.1—Leave that Place, and proceed on the Voyage.—Remarkable Rock at the Paft End of Madeira.—Lay-to in Funchal Bayy whilft Difpatches are fent on board one of his Majefty s Ships.—Bonavifta.—Mayo.—Sal.—Arrival at St. Ja- go.—Occurrences there.—Refrefhments to be met with.— Departure from thence.—Precautions againft the Rain andfultry Weather near the Equator.—Fortunate Pre- fervation of a Boy who fell over-board.—Pafs a vaft Quantity of Shrimp Spawn.—Arrival at Port Egmont. —Falklands Iftands. AS it was the intention of our owners to have the fame quantity of fpirits daily ferved out to the fhips companies as is cuftomaryon board his Majefty's veffels, our principal bufinefs at Guernfey was to procure a proper fupply of liquor for that purpofe ; accordingly we received on board a confiderable quantity of fpirits, together with Port wine and cyder ; various flores were at the fame time taken from my veffel, and put on board the Queen Charlotte. Thefe different employments engaged the whole of our time till the afternoon of the 24th, when all hands were bulled in getting ready for fea. Sunday 25. At five o'clock in the morning of the 25th a breeze fprung up at South Eaft, and foon afterwards the pilot came onboard; at eight we unmoored and got ready to heave a-head, when NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ii when the wind fuddenly chopped round to South South Weft. c HnA p* At noon we had very ftrong gales and fqually weather. About <—-—* one o'clock the wind veering to Weft South Weft it was my September. intention to have weighed and gone to fea, but the weather Sunday 2S' in an inftant changing its appearance, and beginning to blow very hard, prevented me. The gale ftill increasing, I-gave orders for the topgallant-mafts to be ftruck and got down upon deck. I likewife caufed preparation to be made for ftriking the topmafts, and fpliced one of the new cables to the beft bower ; intending, fhould the gale continue till the evening, to lower the topmafts, to have veered to a cable and half on the beft bower, and half a cable on the fmall one. If the fhip had not held faft under thefe precautions, I fhould have run through the Little Ruffels, as I had a pilot on board ; and by having the lower yards aloft, might have brought her under the courfes, and on occafion, the topfails clofe reefed ; but fortunately towards evening the wind got round to the Northward, though it continued blowing in fudden gufts through the night. At nine o'clock in the morning of the 26th, having a Monday 26. moderate breeze at North North Weft, we weighed anchor and got under fail ; at noon St. Martin's Point bore North Eaft by North, diftant one mile and a half ; our obfervation gave 490 20' North latitude. At four in the afternoon the pilot left us. Salt provifions were firft ferved out to the crews on the 27th, at a pound a man a day, together with half a pound of potatoes. At noon we faw Seven Ifles, which bore South, eight or nine leagues, and the Ifle of Bafs South Weft by South, feven leagues diftant * our latitude was 490 6' North, and the longitude, by lunar obfervation, 30 50' 45" Weft. C 2 In sas HfiS 12 CHAP II. 1785. September. Wednef. 28. A VOYAGE TO THE In the evening of the 28th a heavy gale came on at South Eaft by South, attended with drizzling rain, which brought us under clofe-reefed topfails. The gale ftill increasing, we handed the fore and mizen top-fails: at half paft eleven we hauled round, in confequence of feeing a light bearing about South Weft, which had much the appearance of a light-houfe, and which, if a real one, muft have been Ufhant light. We judged ourfelves to be about two leagues from it.' The gale continued during the night with unceafing violence, attended with heavy rain. As we TnurfdayzQ. faw no land on the morning of the 29th, it is probable the light which was feen the preceding evening was the ftern light of fome veffel which ftood on a contrary tack. Friday 30. Odlober. Saturday 1. At iix o'clock in the morning of the 30th I acquainted captain Dixon with my intention of fleering Weft South Weft as long as the wind continued favourable. This day portable foup was ferved to the fhip's company, with half a pint of peas each man three times per week. We faw a number of land birds, one of which was caught; I fuppofe them to have been driven off the French coaft by the heavy South Eaft gales which we recently had met with. Our latitude at noon was 470 58'' North, and the longitude 90 o' Weft. In the afternoon we founded with a line of 130 fathom, but got no bottom. During the afternoon and night we had light variable airs with frequent calms. At ten o'clock in the forenoon of the ift of October we paffed a Danifh galliot. On this occafion our Company's enfign was hoifted, in hopes fhe might take notice of us, and mention it on her arrival in Europe. In w *3 C H A, II. 17B51 Oftober. Sunday z,- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. In the afternoon.of the 2d, a heavy gale of wind came on at North Weft, which occafioned us to clofe-reef the top- fails ; towards evening, the weather growing more moderate, we made and fnortened fail occasionally, in order to give the Queen Charlotte an opportunity of coming up with us. Indeed we have often been obliged to take this ftep fince our departure from England, as we found the King George to have greatly the advantage of her hi failing, either when. going large or by the wind. Towards evening on the 30!, the weather having a Monday 3-- very unpromifing appearance, I kept under aneafyfail, and hauled up to Weft South Weft, for fear of being too near Cape Finiftere ; as I judged, if a ftroiag breeze came on in the night, I fhould pafs its latitude ; but we had a light North Wefterly breeze^ the clouds looking black and lowering. During the whole of the 4th and part of the 5th we Tueiaay*. perceived a confiderable ripling on the water which I have reafon to think was occafioned by a current, and our obfervation giving, for the laft 24 hours, 24 miles left wefting than the longitude by account^ and the obferved latitude giving 23 miles more than by account, I judged this current fet to the South Eaft at a confiderable rate. Our latitude at noon was 4.1 ° 48'' North,, and. the longitude ii° 40' Weft. On the 7th, having very fine weather, the Friday 7. crew's bedding was got up to. air, and every part below was thoroughly cleaned. From this to the 12th nothing particular 'occurred': but Wednef, r. at eight o'clock that morning we faw the ifland Porto 2 Santo Km ■ . ffibi; 14 i78S. Oétober. Wednef. 12. A VOYAGE TO THE Santo bearing Weft by North about 20 leagues diftant. On this we hauled up, to have a nearer view of it, with a moderate breeze at North North Eaft. At noon the North point of the ifland bore North 6 8° Weft, diftant 14 leagues. I now changed our courfe to Weft by South, and fleered for the Eaft end of Madeira, which, having been one of the firft of the Weftern difcoveries, has facilitated future voyages. Our obfervation at noon gave 330 7' North latitude, and the longitude was 150 29' Weft. ^During the afternoon we kept Handing for Madeira, the Weft end of which, at fix o'clock, bore due Weft about 12 leagues diftant. As I wifried to look into Funchal Bay, and was not willing to lofe the opportunity of doing it, we fhortened fail and brought-to during the night with the fhip's head Thurfdayi3. f0 the North ward. At five in the morning of the 13th we bore away and made fail. The Eaft point of the ifland of Madeira, when it bears about Weft by North, has a moft remarkable appearance ; the land feems to be divided by many extraordinary chafms, and there is a large rock at the extreme Eaft point, in the fhape of a fphere, which is perforated fo as to form an uncommon arch. There is alfo a rock greatly refembling a fpire, which feems entirely detached from the ifland, and which, one might fuppofe, could never refift the heavy furfs that conftantly beat againft it. By noon we were clofe in with the ifland, and kept {landing for Funchal Bay, with a fine breeze at North Eaft. Soon after five o'clock, being abreaft of the bay, we found riding there his Majefty's fhip Grampus, of fifty guns, commo- Il wHl NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 15 commodore Edward Thomfon; and under his command c H, A p« his Majefty's fhip Nautilus of 16 guns, which were *—Af* bound on the African ftation. We hove-to, and I fent oaobVr. Mr. M'Leod, my chief mate, on board the commodore Thurfday,3- with difpatches, in order to defire that he would be fo obliging as to fend them on fhore to the Britifh conful, with a requeft that he would forward them to England by the firft conveyance. At the fame time I difcharged one of my crew, and fent him on board the commodore at his own requeft. Mr. M'Leod returning about eight o'clock, we made fail and ftood to the South Weft with a fine Eafterly breeze and clear weather. Nothing occurred worthy of note till the 22d ; when Saturday 22, the water appearing remarkably coloured, we founded at noon with 130 fathom line; but got no bottom. Our latitude was 17" 19' North, and the longitude 22* 55' Weft. At five in the afternoon we faw the Ifle of Sal, bearing Weft North Weft half Weft, 11 leagues diftant : at fix o'clock we fhortened fail and ftretched to the Northward under the topfails; being apprehenfive of falling in with fome rocks which are laid down in the charts about 10 or 12 leagues to the Eaftward of this ifland. I At fix in the morning of the 23d we made fail and Sunday 23. bore up South by Weft with a fine trade breeze : in the forenoon we were in fight of Bonavifta, the extremes of which bore from North 490 Weft to North 86° Weft, diftant about feven leagues. Our meridional obfervation gave 160 7'NQrth latitude, and the mean refult of feveral lunar obfervations, taken in the morning, gave the longitude at noon m A VOYAGE TO THE t n m c h a p. 22° ^Y ^' Weft; in this fituation, the Ifle of Sal appears altogether as one high mountain, and Bonavifta as a number of detached hillocks. 1785. Oclober Monday 24. At two in-the morning of the 24th the Ifle of Mayo appeared in fight, bearing Weft, about three leagues distant. On this we hauled up to South South Eaft, in order to give the ifland a good birth. At five we again made fail and ftood for St. Jago, which we faw foon after feven o clock. bearing Weft by North. The Ifle of Mayo is confiderably elevated, and the land fèems capable of yielding moft of the productions which are natural to tropical climates ; but it does not appear that the inhabitants take any great pains to cultivate it: formerly this place was much frequented for fait, which was purchafed by Britifh fhips and carried to America ; but fince fait has been fo plentifully gathered on the Bahamas, that trade has greatly declined. With a frefh trade breeze we ftood well in for St. Jago, and at noon anchored in Port Praya Bay in eight fathom water over a fandy bottom; the fort bearing North Weft by North, the Eaft point of the bay Eaft by South, and the South point South Weft by Weft. I ordered the fhip to be moored with- the ftream anchor to the South Weft a cable each way : our diftance from the bottom of the bay, when moored, was about one mile and a quarter. Soon after we were moored, there arrived in the bay the Hammet, captain Clark, and a brig commanded by a captain Hawkins, which were both from London on the Southern whale NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. whale fifhery. Captain Clark had bee out fourteen c Hx months, and had i oo tons of oil on board ; the brig was outward bound. *7 Oaober. Monday 24. The filling up our water, and providing ourfelves with fuch frefh provifions as the ifland afforded, being principal objects here, I went on fhore in the afternoon, accompanied by captain Dixon, to learn the beft method of facilitating our various purpofes. After waiting on the commander of the fort, who is ftyled the " Captain Moor" and paying a port charge of four dollars for each veffel, I went to infpect the wells, of which there are two, and both afford excellent water : one of them indeed is rather inconvenient for watering, being fituated at a confiderable diftance from the fhore ; but the other is not more than 200 yards from the beach, with a good rolling-way for cafks. I am inclined to 'think. it is better water than the other, as I obferved it the moft frequented by the inhabitants. I was informed that a market would be held at Prava on the morrow, where I might have an opportunity of furnifhing myfelf with live flock and various kinds of refrefhments, which were brought by the inhabitants from feveral parts of the ifland. At day-light in the morning of the 25th the long-boat tu was hoifted out, and I difpatched. Mr. Hayward, my third mate, with a party, to fill water, following them immediately myfelf in the whale-boat. When we got near the D beach, mm , i 1 II m In 18 chap. II. 1785. Oftober. Tuefday 25. Wednef. 26. A VOYAGE TO THE beach, the furf running pretty high, I ordered Mr. Hay- ward to bring the boat to an anchor, as I did not think it prudent for th^m to land with her. Having fet the people bufily to work in filling water- cafks and rafting them off to the boat, I again waited on the Captain Moor, accompanied by captain Dixon. Whether he was diffatisfied with us the preceding afternoon, or what other reafon he might have I cannot fay, but he now behaved in a very haughty manner, feemed difpofed to prevent us. from procuring any refrefhments, and even refufed us a little water to drink, though the day was extremely fultry; but on my intimating a defign of waiting on the governor (who I was given to underftand refided at fome diftance from Praya), to inform him of this improper treatment of the fubjects of a friendly power, he relaxed a little, and fuffered us to trade with the inhabitants without moleftation. The people in general appeared welL- difpoidi and ready to ferve us. The remainder of the day was taken up in purchafing hogs, goats, fheep, and oranges, which were brought to market in tolerable plenty. Early this morning I difpatched two of mt mates with; the long-boat and a watering party,, following myfelf foon afterwards ; they immediately got to work, and by nine o'clock a boat-load of water was fent on board ; I like- wife fent fome fheep, goats, hogs, and oranges, for the fhip's company. The boat returned at eleven o'clock, and by one in the afternoon a fécond load was fent on board, which completed our water* 11 Under- vu NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. lg ■ »C| . ». mm Oftober. Wednef. 2; Understanding there were bullocks on the ifland, and c HnA p* oeing defirous to purchafe fome for the crews, I waited on a-gentleman who acts here as agent for a mercantile houfe in Lifbon, and who I found was the only dealer for beef: on inquiring the price of bullocks, I was told ten dollars each ; but as they were very fmall, I thought the price too high, and I only engaged one, and j it was with difficulty I prevailed on this-merchant to take money for it ; he behaved politely and treated us hofpitably. This behaviour from a ftranger called for a fimilar return, and we fent him tea, brandy, wine, and a few other prefents. The watering of both the fhips being completed, I determined to flay here two days longer, - in order to give the crews an opportunity of recreating themfelves on fhore ; being convinced this recreation would be of infinite fervice to them, efpecially at a place where there is no great quantity of fpirituous liquors to be procured ; accordingly, on the 27th and 28th, both the fhips companies had Thurfdaya;; liberty given them to go on fhore, the half one day and Fridayz8- the half the other ; while thofe on board were employed in getting the veffels ready for fea. An officer from each fhip was always fent on fhore with our failors, and had particular orders given them to prevent, if poffible, any difputes with the natives ; thefe directions were ftrictly attended to, and not a ftngle quarrel happened ; our people conducting themfelves on fhore with the greateft regularity. In the afternoon of the 28th arrived in the bay the Diana, captain Barrett, from London, bound to the coaft D 2 of me mm IS la CHAP. IL 1785. Odtober. Friday 28. A VOYAGE TO THE of Brazil, and a brig from Martiniee»- commanded by captain Clark. The Diana, in letting go Ker anchor, got foul of the Hammet's cable, on which I fent my longboat to her affiftance, and fhe was extricated without much difficulty. %jjM Every bufinefs at this place being now completed, and the crews in excellent health, I determined to leave it the Saturday 29. firft opportunity. At daylight in the morning of the 29th we unmoored, and at ten o'clock weighed and made fail, ftanding out of the bay with a. moderate eafterly breeze. Previous to this I took my leave of captain Clark of the Hammet, to whom I acknowledge myfelf greatly indebted- for his affiftance on many occafions during our flay at Port Praya. At noon the extremes of the ifland bore from. North 530 Weft, to North 330 Eaft, diftant from the harbour about three miles., I : Saint Jago is generally mountainous, and appears to* be a very fine ifland : but our fhort flay here, and my profeffional duties, prevented me from making excurfions into the interior parts. The vallies appear to be fertile ;, there is a great quantity of land which is fit for producing: fugar-cane, and I have no doubt but that with proper care they might cultivate fome of the fineft in the world ; they raife cotton, and fome of the natives appear to be induf- trious, but are exceedingly oppreffed by the Portuguefe foldiers, who exact an exorbitant toll from the unhappy countrymen who bring their commodities to market, their fheep, hogs, goats, turkeys, fowls, oranges, lemons, limes, bananas, and plantains; all which are tolerably plentiful, and might be purchafed at very reafonable 5 prices, IV it CHAP. mi 1785. Oftober. Saturday 29.- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMMiCA;. prices, Were it not for thofe oppreffions, which fèem to be without remedy from an inattentive government. On the. whole, the variety of refrefhments which Saint Jago fupplies, renders it a very eligible ftation for thofe veffels to touch, at, which are employed in the Southern whale fifhery, or for thofe which are bound, as we were, round Cape Horn. Having for fome days paft obfervecPa rippling on the November? Water, in the morning of the 4th November the. whale- FrkJay4- boat-Was lowered down> in order to try the current;: and> We found it fet&ig South Eaft by Eaft, at the rate of five fathoms an hour. OurVË^udethen w3ts 7° 44' North,., and the longitude 21* $<f Weft^îg On the nth one of our feamen caught a fparrowr-hawk, Friday n. which had fettled on the mizen- top fail-yard. I could, fcarcely' find any difference between this bird and that of 1Ée fame fpecies to be met with in England. The obferva-*- ffl tion at noon; gave 4^' 39' North latitude, and 210 30' Weft longitude. Since our departure from Saint Jago; we had feldorn Been favoured with a fteady North Eaft trade ; the wind frequently was variable, at times blew very fréfh and in heavy fqualls; the weather' was clofe and fultry,. attended with violent fhowers of rain. Such heavy rains and clofe fultry weather very often bring on- ficknefs among feafaring men, and too- muchs care cannot be taken to guard againft their fatal effects ; accordingly every precaution was taken that could bethought of for preferving the crews in good health ; their clothes. 1 ■5* WM a»! til ill Friday ii. a^ AVOYAGETOTHE c HnA p- clothes and bedding were brought upon deck to air, when- v, I—\ ever the weather permitted ; great care was taken to keep November, the mips between decks clean and well aired; and krowt, fweet-wort, borcole, and portable foup, were alternately ferved to the fhip's company. Thefe methods, with the "bleffing of Providence, fucceeded to the utmoft of my wifhes ; fo that there was not one perfon fick on board during this paffage, although we laboured under the dif- agreeable circumftance of our decks and upper works leaking fo much, that many of the failors could fcarcely lie .dry in their beds, and the rain prevented the caulkers from being fèt to work fo conftantly as our fituation required : this inconvenience arofe from the veffel being new, and confequently having never been in a warm climate. 3&aefday,i5. oN the 15th David Gilmore, a boy about ten years old, fell overboard from the weather main fhrouds, and not being able to fwim, dropped a-ftern. Every effort was ufed to fave him ; but all had proved ineffectual, had not Providence enabled him to keep above water till the boat picked him up, when he was near two hundred yards from the veffel, and had been eight or ten minutes in the ocean ; and when he was almoft dead with fright and fatigue. Wednef. 16. Early the next morning we caught a fhark, which had the greateft part of a -large porpoife in his maw ; this circumftance gave us frefh caufe of thankfulnefs for the pre- fervation of Gilmore, and additional reflections on the various accidents to which a feafaring life is fubject. The ii i: NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 2$ The fame day we croffed the equator in the 25th de- c HirA p gree of Weft longitude with a moderate trade wind at *—M—I South Eaft, and pleafant weather. 178c. November. Wednef. 16; In the afternoon of the 24th captain'Dixon came on fSâjfKii board the King George, and I fignified to him my intention of touching at Port Egmont in Falkland's Iflands; in order to refit and water our fhips; as we then fhould be enabled to profecute the voyage without attempting to make any harbour near Cape Horn, a circumftance which?. would moft probably be attended with difficulty and delay. This point being determined on, captain Dixon returned on board his own veffel about five o'clock ; and. we ftretched to the Southward with a favourable breeze,. $£,■ ■frf' Towards evening on the 27th, two fand-pipers of the Sunday27» ftriated fpecies were feen about the fhip; after flaying near an hour, they flew away in the direction of Eaft North Eaft. John Hamilton Moore, in his chart of the Atlantic Ocean, lays down an ifland ealled: Afcencas, about 190 45'South latitude, and 350 2-5' Weft longitude ; and judging myfelf at this time nearly in*the fame latitude, and not being certain of its fituation as to longitude, I brought-to and lay by during the night; at daylight next Monday2s morning we, bore away and flood South Weft till ten o'clock, and afterwards Weft South Weft until noon, when ©ur obfervation giving 20°" \ South- latitude, which is more than five leagues to the Southward of Afceneas, and it being only a needlefs wafle of time to fearch. for that ifland, I altered our courfe to South Weft by South, in; order to make Port Egmont as fpeedily as poffible. Several, large flocks of boobies and fheerwaters were hovering about ii m m ii 24 C H A P. II. 1785. November. A VOYAGE O THE' about to the Northward of us, and it is poffible that there may be land not far from this fituation. Tuefday29. Itf the morning of the 29th we paffed a large quantity of rock-weed, which I fuppofed had been driven from the ifland of Trinidada and the fmall iflajnds adjacent to it ; a land bird, about the fize of a wild duck, and very much like one, was feen flying about ; we at that time were in 210 14' South latitude, and 35e 5 Weft longitude. The fame precautions that I have already taken notice of were ftill fl;rictly obferved in regard to the prefervatipa of health amongft our fhips companies, and were attended with the happieft effects, as we had not at this time one ffck perfon on board. December. .Saturday 3. The trade wind left us on the 3d December, about 240 South latitude, and was fucceeded by a frefh gale at South Weft ; on this we ftretched to the Eaftward, but the wind gradually fhifting to the Southward, we were again enabled to fleer South Weft by South. TueCday^. In the evening of the 6th, being in 260 24' South latitude, and 390 26' Weft longitude, we fleered South Weft during the night, as there is a rock laid down in Moore's chart nearly in that fituation. Fortunately, however, we faw nothing of it ; and next morning we again, fleered our proper courfe with a frefh Eafterly breeze. Monday M £)N tae 12fa we paffe(i through a prodigious quantity of fpawn, fome of which was taken up, and on.examination it was found to be the. fpawn of fhrimps ; each feparate particle chap. il 1785. December. Monday 12. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. particle was about the fize of a fmall bean, of a fubftance like blubber or jelly, quite tranfparent, and contained a fmall fhrimp alive but not matured. I have reafon to fuppofe this fpawn comes out of the river Plata, as we were nearly oppofite its mouth ; our latitude being 340 35' South, and the longitude 450 37' Weft ; the great numbers of fpermaceti whales which are generally met with here, are doubtlefs induced by thefe. tranfparent fubftances to frequent a fituation where they conftantly find fuch abundant food. On the 15th, being in 37* 44' South latitude, and Thurfdayij. 48 ° ior Weft longitude, we paffed a great number of fpermaceti whales ; a large piece of bark, which appeared to have been recently feparated from the tree, was feen floating in the water ; and albatroffes,. fheerwaters,- and a number of birds which were entirely white, and greatly refembled a pigeon, were flying about in every direction. During the forenoon of the 20th the water was very Tuefday 20. much coloured ; but as there is no known land near the fituation we then were in, and having a brifk favourable gale, I did not chufè to interrupt our progrefs by founding; we faw a number of albatroffes, fheerwaters, and HÊver-coîoured birds, a fhark, and feveral whales. Our obfervation at noon gave 420 26' South latitude, and the ÎMgitude was 5 3* yf Weft. ;'fk the evening of the 21ft we had a frefh gale of wind wednef. 21. at Weft South Weft, and the fea breaking in a very extraordinary manner, we founded, but got no bottom, with a line o£ fixty fathom. The next morning large patches of Thurfd^*. E rock- ™ mit Il 26 A VOYAGE TO THE chap. rock-weed were floating on the water, and great variety of *—pfcl» birds, fuch as albatroffes, fheerwaters, and flormy petrels, December, were flying about the veflels. The latitude then was Thurfday22. ^o ^ South, and the longitude 540 3' Weft. 1786. January. Monday 2. From this to the 2d January we in general had very tempeftuous weather, attended with violent fqualls ; variety of birds in great numbers were daily feen, fuch as Port Egmont hens, albatroffes, petrels, penguins, &e. large quantities of rock-weed conftantly floating in the water ; and it being much coloured, we were frequently induced to found, but we never got any bottom with 120 fathom line: at length, early in the morning of the 2d, we got foundings in 7 2 fathom water, over a bottom of fine grey fand, and immediately afterwards faw Falkland's Iflands, the land then in fight bearing from South to South Eaft, about feven leagues diftant. During the whole day we had light variable winds, and very hazy weather, which obliged us to ply occafionally, and prevented our getting in with the land. Ii Tuefday3. About eleven o'clock in the forenoon of the 3d, being about fix leagues diftant from the land, we faw fomething. from the maft-head which had greatly the appearance of a fhip under fail bearing South Eaft of us, but on a nearer approach it was found to be a rock whitened over with the dung of birds ; it is fituated about three leagues from the land. Our latitude at that time was 51° \ South, and the longitude 5 8° 48' Weft ; in this fituation we had foundings in 7 2 fathom water over a bottom of fine fand, and as we ftood in. fhore they leffened gradually. It i/r 1786. January. Tuefday 3. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. It happened rather unluckily, that we had hot a fepa- rate chart of Falkland's Iflands on board of either veffel. This circumftance, together with the variable winds and foggy weather we conflantly had, occafioned us to ply with caution, though I was very defirous to make a harbour as foon as poffible ; what water we could get at being nearly expended, without breaking up the hold, j»hieh I did not like to undertake in fuch ftormy weather as we had recently had. At fix o'clock in the afternoon, feeing the appearance of an harbour to the South South Weft, I fent my whale-boat on board the Queen Charlotte for Captain Dixon, and communicated to him my intention of ftanding in for it next morning, as we (having then nearly a calm) had no chance of coming to anchor whilft daylight continued. We now had foundings in twenty-fix fathom water, over a bottom of foft fand inclining to mud ;, the white rock juft mentioned bore North 41 ° Eaft, diftant four or five leagues ; the Eafternmoft point of land in fight North 6i° Eaft, and the Wefternmoft point South 650 Weft, about feven miles diftant. We tacked during the night as occafion required, and foon after two o'clock in the morning of the 4th, ftood for our expected harbour ; but on wednef.^ our getting well in with the land, we found ourfelves difappointed, the inlet not affording any fhelter for veffels to lie at anchor. On this we ftood to the Weftward, as I judged we were too much to the Eaftward for Port Egmont, which I wifhed to make. In the morning we had light airs, and fo thick a fog, that no land could be feen, but at ten o'clock fome high land made its appearance over the fog-bank, and prefently afterwards we faw low land bearing from South by Eaft to South by Weft, about four miles diftant : we had foundings in thirty-two- fathom E 2 water^ I iftir -VrJnv w L water, fand. VOYAGE TO THE ^yser a bottom of mud covered with fine yellow The low land was fituated about three miles from fhore, and feemed to form two iflands ; but on a nearer approach I found'that they were joined by a reef, and that a rocky fhoal ran out from each extreme nearly a mile. We plied along fhore with variable winds and foggy weather until daylight in the morning of the 5th, when, having a favourable breeze from the Northward, we ftood well in for the land ; foon afterwards a fine opening prefented itfelf to the South Weft, which pro- mifed an excellent harbour. On this I ordered the whale- boat to be lowered down, and fent Mr. M'Leod, my chief mate, with orders to found the entrance, and to direct captain Dixon to keep a-head of the King George. By five o'clock we approached the opening very faft; on which I made a fignal for the whale-boat to pufh on and look out for an anchoring place. Soon after fix o'clock, the boat being about four miles a-head, made the fignal for fhoal water, which occafioned us to haul the wind and fland off: after founding directly acrofs the entrance, the boat proceeded on and prefèntly difap- peared within the Eaft point of the opening ; notwith- Handing which, I flood- in under a very eafy fail, being doubtful whether we fhould meet with a harbour ; Mr. M'Leod not having as yet made the appointed fignal for finding one. At the fame time we were within fome fmall iflands, with an increafing wind, which blew directly on fhore, and there was every appearance of an approach- ins ■mi iMIMMJiWl NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ing gale : however, foon after nine o'clock I had the pleasure of feeing the union flag flying on the top of a high hill over the Eaft point of the opening, which was the fignal for a fafe harbour ; I immediately made a fignal for the boat to return, not thinking it prudent to run in until I had the mate's report ; but that no time might be loft; I requeued captain Dixon to fend his whale-boat a-head to found, and, fhould they meet with fhoal water, to continue on it as a mark for the veffel s to fail by. About ten o'clock Mr. M'Leod returned, and reported that he had found a good harbour, and a place tolerably convenient for watering. When the fignal was made for fhoal water, he was in feven fathom water, over a bed of rocks covered with weeds, which came up to the furface, and which were fituated near the middle of the channel. c h a II. 1786? January Thurfday -mi M IJfflHj 5r We ftood in for the harbour under an eafy fail, and at eleven o'clock came to anchor with the beft bower on the Eaft fhore in twelve fathom water, over Aa fandy bottom, but under the furface I judge it to be a ftiff mud. The fhip was moored with the ftream-anchor to the Southward : when moored we were land-locked, except at the entrance we came in by, the Eaft point of which bore North Weft by Weft half Weft, and the Weft point Weft by North, diftant from the land to the Northward about three quarters of a mile, iifffi MR A VOYAGE TO THE CHAP. HI. Various Employments in Port Egmofit.—Ruins of a Town difcovered.—Meet with two Ships employed in the Oil Trade.—Method of extracting Oil from the Blubber of the Sea Elephant.—Several Birds defcribed.—Refreftj- ments obtained there.—Leave Port Egmont, and proceed to States Bay.—Difference between the Sea Lion and Sea Elephant pointed out.—Remains of a Wreck difcovered.—Leave Falkland's If and s and proceed on the Voyage.—Pafs St at en s Land.—Stormy Weather in 'doubling Cape Horn.—Pick up a Number of Turtle.— Fruitlefs Search for Los Magos.—Arrive in Sight of Owhyhee* n i, iii i DI li CHAP. III. 1786. January. Tharfdayj. lVT MEDIATELY after we were moored, I ordered the v/hale-boat to be lowered down, and went on fhore, accompanied by captain Dixon, to infpect the watering- place pointed out by my mate, and which was fituated on the North fhore : it afforded excellent water, which run through an immenfe bed of large ftones ; but the path to the. watering place being alfo very ftony, and liable to hurt our cafks very much, I was induced to look out for a more eligible fpot. We walked along fhore to the Eaftward., and fell in with feveral runs of good water, but the accefs to every one o£ them was equally ftony. As thefe ftones occupy a number of vallies whofe declivity is confiderable, and which are feparated by high mountains, I think it 3 verjr NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 31 very probable that they have been collected together by c ma p- impetuous torrents of rain, though this feems not to have *—-~-—» happened very lately, as they are univerfally covered with a January. kind of white mofs. * Thurfday In the courfe of our walk we met with a number of fea lions on the beach, feveral of which were killed for the fake of their fat or blubber to make oil for our lamps, and various other purpofes : by the time they were got into the boat the day was far fpent, which occafioned us to repair on board. During the afternoon we had frefh gales from the Northward with frequent fqualls, but at night the wind fhifted to South Weft, and the weather grew moderate. Early in the morning of the 6th I went in the whale- Friday 6. boat, in order to look for a convenient watering-place on the Weft fide the harbour, not being well fatisfied with any I had hitherto feen, and likewife to found the bay to the Southward. Captain Dixon alfo went in his boat upon the fame fervice, taking the Northern fhore. We carried foundings from twelve to ten fathom water, over a fandy bottom, until we got within a quarter of a mile qf the fhore ; the water then fhoaled to five and fix fathom, with a bottom of rocks. Round the point of land to the Southward we Jiad ftill a rocky bottom with fix and kven fathom water. m miles. After proceeding to the Weftward for about two we met with a fandy bar that runs quite acrofs, and forms a bay within the other: fmall veffels might go-over this bar ama A VOYAGE. T-O-THE bar at high water and lie perfectly fecure ; but it not an- fwering our purpofe, we landed and walked into' the country, whicli was all in a wild ftate, without the leaft appearance of cultivation, and not a flick of wood to be feen as far as the eye could reach ; but a good fubftitute,. as fuel, rnay eafily be procured, which is the root of a long coarfe grafs, that grows in many places quite to the water's- edge, and when dry would make excellent turf. In our walk we picked up an iron hoop, and faw fome dung which appeared like that of an hog; but our principal defign in making this excurfion was not anfwered, as we could not find any water fo convenient as that to the Northward of our prefent fituation ; on which I returned on board at one o'clock, and determined to make the fhip as fecure as poffible, in order that we might proceed on our watering bufinefs without the leaft delay.. At two o'clock the wind blowing very ftrong at South Weft, we got the topgallant-mafts down upon deck, the top-mafts were ftruck clofe down to the rigging, and the lower yards kept aloft. In the night the weather grew more moderate, and at four o'clock in the morning of the 7th, the long-boat was hoifted out and fent on fhore with a watering party ; the cables were got upon deck, in order to get. at the empty butts under them. At eleven o'clock the boat returned with a load of water which filled thirteen butts in the main hold ; fhe was immediately difpatched for another turn of water. During the afternoon we had frefh gales and very fqually weather, fo that it was with great difficulty the long-boat got a fécond turn of water on board ; this completed the main-hold, and the cables were again coiled down. 5 - ■ ' *'n On wmmmmsmm NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. On the 8th I gave as many men as could be conveniently fpared from the fhip leave to recreate themfelves on fhore, and a boat to remain with them all day, in order to bring them on board in the evening. The 25th December being at fea, and the weather very unfettled, we declined celebrating Chriftmas until a more favourable opportunity ; and this being a very convenient time, I gave all hands a double allowance of brandy, and fome frefh pork which I killed for the occafion : thefe indulgences, together with a good walk on fhore, made the Chriftmas pafs very plea- fantly ; and in the evening I had the fatisfaction of feeing my fhip's company in good fpirits ; not a fingle man incapable of doing his duty from drunkennefsor any other caufe. Our people, when on fhore, made excurfions into various parts of the country, and fome of them difcovered the ruins of a town, with fome garden ground adjoining, in which were a few flowers ; feveral forts of vegetables in fmall quantities, fuch as horferadifh, fhalots, a few fmall potatoes, and fome celery, which was in a degenerate ftate : they likewife faw a hog, but he was fo wild they could not catch him. CHAP. ill. 1786. January. Sunday 8i BHK.J -Vrvivi id» im This forenoon we completed our water, and the long- Monday 9. boat was fent for a load of fione ballaft ; the people who remained on board yefterday, had liberty given them to go on fhore ; they landed on the Weft fide of the harbour, near the ruins of the town I have already taken notice of; and at fome diftance in the country faw a bullock, a cow, and feveral hogs, which probably were left behind when the place was evacuated. F From 34 CHAP III. 1786. January. Saturday 14. Sunday 15. A VOYAGE TO T HE From this to the 14th we were engaged in various neceffary employments. About feven tons of ftone ballaft were taken on board, and our boats likewifè affifted the Queen Charlotte in the fame bufinefs, as fhe required a much larger quantity of ballaft than the King George. A number of feals and fea lions were killed for the fake of their fkins and . blubber ; and the carpenters were fully employed in caulking the quick-work and other parts that were found defective, in order that we might proceed to fea as foon as poffible. I gave the people liberty to go on fhore at every opportunity, being convinced that land-air and exercife conduce very much to preferve the health of feamen in long voyages. During this interval we in general had frefh gales at South Weft, with fqually weather and frequent rain. At nine o'clock this evening a floop arrived in the harbour, and anchored off the town. Early next morning, captain Coffin came on board the King George, and informed me that his floop is named the Speedwell, and is tender to a fhip called the United States, commanded by captain Huffey, and now lying in a good harbour at Swan Ifland, in company with the Canton, captain Whippy : both thefe veffel s were employed in the oil trade, and had nearly completed their cargoes ; the United States having 300 tons of oil on board, and the Canton about half that quantity. The chief part of their oil is procured from animals they call fea elephants. Thefe creatures are certainly amphibious, Ml km,) mm IP XEWLOW WJLWGiEB BTmTJLTTO „ cr/MA^C? Sien*- 3û.i?a£. Jy SStoalt^A- SC-g&«66j-. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. phibious, .as they generally frequent fandy bays, orllhe points of bays that are compofed of fmooth flat ftones. A good fea elephant yields near half a: ton of Mï, which is produced without boiling, - the blubber is fo exceedingly free : if put into cafks, the blubber- will foon run to oil, and afterwards it may be firained off into other cafks ; but this procefs being rather tedious where there are very large quantities of blubber, captain Coffin informed me they had difcovered a better and more expeditious method. They build a tank on fhore, of a fize fufficiently large to contain any quantity of oil they expect: to procure. Over this tank a grating work is fixed by way of ftrainer ; the blubber is then thrown on the grating, and weights being put on it, the oil is foon preffed out. Adjoining to the large tank is a fmaller one, into which the oil is firained a fécond time ; by this means it is rendered perfectly fine, and may be put into cafks at pleafure. From the defcription given by the late captain Cook of an animal he faw at New Georgia, I have no doubt but it was a fea elephant ; and there is every reafon to fuppofe they may be found at that ifland in great plenty : the fame may be faid of Kerguelen's Land, where we touched during captain Cook's laft voyage, and found a number of thefe animals, which We then fuppofed to be fêa lions ; but this was certainly a miftaken notion, for^they were very tame, and killed with the greateft eafe, whilft the fea lions met with at this place are quite furious, and ought not to be attacked without great caution. 3S CHAP. M. 1786. January. Sunday 15. #- Ijitl1 ,.W F 2 Thel C H A m. 1786. January. Sunday 15. A VOYAGE TO THE The feathered tribe which inhabit thefe iflands are very numerous and in great variety, but moft of them are already well known : however, I procured fpecimens of the yellow-winged bunting, the rufty-crowned plover, and the cinereous lark. Since my arrival in England I have got correct drawings, from which the annexed engravings are taken, and a defcription of them may perhaps not be improperly introduced in this place. The yellow-winged bunting is nearly the fize of a.yellow- hammer ; length five inches and a half ; the bill is brown ; the plumage en the upper part of the body, a reddifh brown ; the fides of the head, quite round the eye, the cheft and fore-part of the neck, white ; at the lower part of the laft a bar of reddifh brown ; the breaft yellowifh ; the reft of the under-part dufky white ; the leffer wing- coverts yellow ; - the reft of the wing, like the back and edges of the feathers, yellowifh ; the tail reddifh brown, all but the two outer feathers on each fide, which are yellow ; legs yellow. The female is much like the male, but the lefier wing- coverts incline to yellowifh afh-colour ; the fides of the head, the cheft, and throat, dufky white. Rufty^£rowned plover.—Size of the ringed plover-y length feven inches and a half ; bill three quarters of an inch long, and black ; the forehead, cheft, all the fore-part of the neck, the upper part of the breaft, and the belly, white ; acrofs the top of the head is a bar of black pafling downwards on each fide of the neck in an irregular manner to the wings, and from thence forwards acrofs the lower part 5 of p t/elWiZ^'eW^ /t&Ae/J'jtvfc' THE ÏLUSTY" CJROWOT) IŒ.OVE1R, MALE <yfrym/ tJwCé&zvt/û <^ti 'j. HlMS M Mm ifflffl litts ^«J&*4^£~4&*vt.*7$j)- fy £S&t>àu&£^-£w6&k ■ mil-u ■:!■■■ M i (WW lw "'MM1 m l NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. of the breaft, forming thereon a broad bar ; behind the black bar on the top of the head is a circle of a rufty iron-colour furrounding the back- part of the head as a wreath ; the crown of the head within this, as well as all the upper parts of the body and wings, are cinereous brown, except the greater quills and -tail, which are black : the legs are alfo blacks 37 CHAP. III. 1786. January. Sunday 15-, The female is greatly fimilar to the male in colour, but wants the rufty-coloured wreath at the back part of the head. Cinereous lark.—This fpecies is fmaller than the (ky- lark ; length fix inches; the bill and legs are black;: the plumage and upper parts of the body are afh-colour, and the under part the fame, but much paler, inclining to white near the vent ; the quills and tail are black, the outer edges of the feathers of both margined with white. This fpecies is a variety of the lark found at New Zealand. Every neceffary bufinefs being now completed;, it was my determination to get to fea immediately, although we had frefh gales at South Weft, attended with rain; but having occafion to fend one of my mates on board the Speedwell, he returned witfr a meffage from captain Coffin, informing me that captain Huffey had on board the United States, fix or feven thoufand fur feal fkins, and that he had reafon to fuppofe they would be difpofed of at a moderate price. An opportunity of procuring fuch a quantity of fkins was by no means to be loft, efpecially as there was a great probability of their felling well in China ; I therefore fent for captain Dixon immediately, and confulted him »ra '1 M m 33 CHAP III. 1786. January. Sunday 15. .'Monday 16. m> A VOYAGE TO THE him on the bufinefs : he was entirely of my opinion, and we agreed to purchafe them, if the price was not too high ; and, that this affair might delay us as little as poffible, we determined to requeft captain Coffin to pilot the veffels to Swan Ifland, where, as I have already obferved, ,i:he United States lay at anchor. At four o*clock in the morning of the 16th, the Speedwell failed for a bay on the Eaft fide of Keppel's Ifland ; at five o'clock we unmoored and got under fail, in order to run farther into the bay. About ten, we anchored in twelve fathom water, over a muddy bottom, the town bearing Weft North Weft, diftant one mile and a half, the ftony valley where we watered, North, three miles and a half, and the South Eaft end of Keppel's Ifland, Eaft North Eaft, fix miles diftant. We moored with the beft bower to the Weft- ward, and the ftream to the Eaftward. At noon I went in my whale-boat, accompanied by captain Dixon, after the Speedwell, to have fome conver- fation with captain Coffin refpecting the fkins ; we got on board about two o'clock, but the information he gave us about them was little more than I had already received by his menage ; however, he very readily undertook to pilot us to Swan Ifland, through the inner paffage, as foon as he had got a quantity of elephant blubber on board, which ' then lay at one of the outer keys. The day ibeing far fpent, and our diftance from the fhips confiderable, we remained on board the Speedwell Tuefdayi7. all night; and at five o'clock in the morning of the 17th fet s 4 ill JlfeZ,cùvz& c&é SWyyil fat? m m iiS I ..I::'.ti CTNEREOTTS X.AKK ©I* ITAX^IHCAWIDS ISILA^DS 1 ^J/tj/é/sfen* ,'J. /ySa ,/y , ZjheAila&. S(àiJ(Zu<i&n* . NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. fet off for our veffels, with an intention of furveying the ( bay to the Eaftward ; at the fame time the Speedwell failed for the key where their blubber was left. 39 H A III. P. 1786. January. Tuefday 17. At one o'clock I got on board my own fhip, and the Speedwell arriving foon afterwards, I fent for captain Coffin, and we agreed to fail in the morning if the wind and weather permitted ; he then returned on board his own. veffel. Some of my people that were on fhore for recreation, returned in the evening with a large fow and feveral fmall pigs, which they had caught at fome diftance in the country ; and alfo great plenty of geefe, ducks, and various kinds of birds, caught chiefly near the fea fide. During the night we had ftrong gales from the South South Weft, with fqualls and rain» Next morning I fent my boat on board the Speedwell wednef. 18. for captain Coffin ; he came immediately on board the King George, but was of opinion that it would not be prudent for us to fail with the prefent unfettled weather ; I therefore determined to keep my prefent fituation till a more favourable opportunity. The wind blew very ftrong all day at South South Weft, attended with frequent fqualls, but towards evening the weather grew moderate. At four o'clock in the morning of the 19th we un- Thurfdayis». moored, and at feven got under fail with a moderate breeze at South,, fhaping our courfe for Swan Ifland : the Speedwell took the inner paffage, and we ftood round Saunders's Ifland. By Ill IUI p III nil1' W\ Iii, ? |i|! ! mill Pi 40 CHAP. III. 1786. January. TJiurfday 19. Friday 20. A VOYAGE TO THE By eight o'clock we were juft in the entrance of Port Egmont, and the wind inclining to South Weft, we plied; to windward, and at noon were working through the paffage between Saunders's Ifland and Low Iflands. During the afternoon we had variable winds, with fogs and clear weather by turns. At eight o'clock the Weft end of Saunders's Ifland bore Eaft by South three leagues, -a ridge of rocks which extends from it. Eaft North Eaft five miles, the Weft end of Low IflandsFfour leagues, and the Eaft end of Carcafs Ifland South by Weft four leagues diftant. Soon after ten o'clock we anchored off Carcafs Ifland Bay, in 15 fathom water, over a bottom of coarfe fand and broken fhells. The morning of the 20th was ufliered in with a thick fog and quite calm, but about feven o'clock, a breeze fprung up from the Weft ward, and the weather cleared up; on which captain Coffin came on board the King George, in order to pilot us into Weft Point Harbour ; the paffage from our prefent fituation to that place being amongft a number of fmall iflands : he likewife put a pilot on board the Queen Charlotte. On this we immediately weighed, and at nine o'clock pafled between Beachy Ifland and the Eafternmoft of the middle rocks. There is a moft excellent harbour on the South fide of Carcafs Ifland, well fheltered, which may eafily be known by a fmall ifland that lies in the middle of it, within which a vefiel may .anchor with the greateft fafety. At noon we anchored with the beft bower in Weft Point Harbour, in feven fathom water, over a fandy bottom, and moored with thekedge. When moored, the North point of the harbour , JIliJIJiLillll ItWIillllilltllililMJy H NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. hour bore Weft North Weft one mile diftant, and the Weft point of Weft Point Ifland, Weft half North, diftance three leagues. This harbour is certainly one of the fineft in the world, being fheltered from every wind, and eafy of accefs. 41 1786. January. Friday 20. The wind being unfavourable, and the weather very hazy during the afternoon, we kept our fituation ; but the morning of the 21ft proving fine, we weighed and got under Saturday 2i. fail at feverf o'clock. Soon afterwards, being directly oppofite the South Weft point of Weft Ifland, the gufts of wind came on fo very heavy from the high land, that we were obliged to clew all up and keep the fhip large ; however, after we had rounded the point, and got clear of the high land, we had a moderate fteady breeze from Weft North Weft. The weather being very hazy, we fleered South Weft by South, to make the Middle Iflands ; and at half paft ten o'clock the South end of Middle Iflands bore South Eaft by Eaft half Eaft, one league diftant, and Swan Ifland, South half Eaft, four leagues diftant. At noon we had an obfervation, which gave 510 44' South latitude. In this fituation, Loop's Head (which is the Eaft point of the entrance into Swan Ifland Bay) bore South Eaft half Eaft, diftant about two leagues, and the Wefternmoft of the Middle Iflands Eaft South Eaft, three miles diftant. At one o'clock we paffed Loop's Head, and ftood into States Bay, fo named by captain Benjamin Huffy, who firft difcovered it when on a whaling voyage to thefe iflands fome years ago. Within this bay are feveral fine harbours, the principal of which I fhall diftinguifh by the name of Huffy s Har~ G bour% mm idm \:w m m r ! 42 CHAP. III. 1786. January. Saturday 21. Sunday 22. A VOYAGE TO THE hour, in honour of the difcoverer. Here we found riding at anchor the Uniied States, the Canton, and the Speedwell and Maria floops, tenders to the United States. At three o'clock we anchored with the beft bower in States Bay, in eighteen fathom water, over a muddy bottom, and moored with the kedge. When moored, the outer end of a reef without us bore North half Eaft, one mile diftant; the entrance of the Bay Èaft by North, one mile and a half; and a fmall ifland South by Weft half Weft one mile and a half diftant. As foon as the fhip was fecured I went in my whale- boat, accompanied by captain Dixon, on board the United States, to have fome converfation with captain Huffy, refpecting the purchafe of his fur feals, but we found he was not difjiofed to part with them ; and I am inclined to think he meant them for an Eaftern market, as he mentioned to me his intentioii of going to Ghi&a immediately on his return home. The bufinefs wliich had detained us here for fome days paft being now finally put an end to, nothing prevented us from getting to fea immediately; however, as our next paffage was likely to prove a long one, I was induced to give the failars a day's liberty on fhore previous to our leaving thefe iflands; accordingly^ on the 22d, moft of the people from both veffels had a walk on fhore, and the weather proved very favourable^-- I went along with captain Huffy over to the North fide of States Bay, and there found a fea elephant, which at NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 43 1786. January. at once convinced me that thofe aàimals we faw at Ker- guelen's Land were really fea elephants, and that we were totally miftaken in calling them fea lions. I have already taken notke how very different thefe animals are in their Sonday " nature, and I now had a moft convincing proof of it ; for the elephant was killed with all the eafe imaginable, but at the North point of the bay a number of fea lions were drawn up in a kind of rank on the beach, and difputed our paffage with the greateft ferocity ; far from attacking them, we acted only on the dfefenfive, and it was not without difficulty we got round the point.'îfjjgi In the courfe of our walk we found feveral pieces of white wax, and faw a top, fome fpars, and various other pieces of a wreck. I mention this circumftance more particularly, as it may poffibly throw fome light on the following accident. Some years ago two Spanifh veffels came round Cape Horn, bound to Buenos Ayres, laden principally with white wax ; one of them arrived fafe, the other has never yet been heard of, but there is too much reafon to fear that fhe was loft on Falkland's Iflands. The day being pretty far advanced, I repaired on board my fhip with a determination to put to fea at daylight in the morning, if the weather permitted. Having a fine Southerly breeze, at four o'clock in the Monday23. morning of the 23d we unmoored, arid at five weighed and came to fail. We run clear of Ball Ifland, which is fituated on the Weft fide of the entrance into Swan Ifland G 2 Bay, â-A CHAP. III. 1786. January. Monday 23,. A VOYAGE TO T H E Bay, and then fhaped our courfe for New Ifland, which from Ball Ifland bears Weft half North, four leagues diftant. On the Eaft fide of New Ifland are three good bays ; its greateft extent is from North to South. Good water is fcarce at this ifland, except in a bay on the South. fide, and there it is eafify found, as it is a boiling fpring, fituated nearly at low-water mark.. I was informed by captain Huffy, that moft of the fprings at New Ifland are rendered brackifh by a very heavy fea, which conftantly fets in with a Wefterly wind, the fpray of which flies over the beach and mixes with the frefh-water fprings. At noon the Northernmoft point of Round Ifland bore Eaft South Eaft half Eaft, ten miles diftant ; the South Weft point of New Ifland, South Eaft half South, eight miles; and the South Weft point of all Falkland's Iflands South South Eaft half Eaft, fix leagues diftant. We had an obfervation, which gave 510 36' South latitude. The wind hauling to the Weftward at four o'clock, occafioned us to tack, the weather moderate and hazy. At eight o'clock Cape Perihal (the Wefternmoft point of Falkland's Iflands) bore Eaft South Eaft, fix leagues, and the North point of New Ifland E.aft North Eaft half Eaft, eight leagues diftant.. Taefday^ Having a moderate breeze to the Northward in the morning of the 24th, I fleered South Weft, being well clear of all. the Iflands, Cape Peribal at this time bearing Eaft North Eaft,. about ten leagues diftant. The weather was hazy, and in the afternoon a very thick fog came on, but we were fortunate enough not to lofe company. We faw numbers of whales, and variety of birds, fuch as penguins. '2 filver- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 4S 1786. January. Tuefday 24. filver-coloured birds, and fmall divers► About feven c nmA F* o'clock the only hen-turkey I had flew overboard, but the weather being very foggy, and a heavy fwell from the Northward, I did not think it- fafe to venture my boat from the fhip, though I was forry for the accident ; as I had referved her and a cock, together with fome other poultry, to leave as breeders at any place where I thought there was a probability of their breeding and being taker* care of. On the 25th, being then in 52* 33' South latitude, wednef. 25, and 630 12 Weft longitude, the variation was 230 6-' EafL In the evening we founded with, fixty fathom of line, but got no bottom. At fix o'clock in the afternoon of the 26th we faw Thurfday2&. Staten's Land very high, bearing South, diftant about five or fix leagues ; foon afterwards it came on to blow very ftrong and in fqualls, attended with rain, and the weather fo thick that we loft fight of the land; this brought us under clofe-reefed topfails and reefed courfes*; the topgal- lant-mafts were alfo ftruck. The weather clearing up at half paft feven o'clock, the land again appeared in fight, on which we made fail and run in for it : this however was of fhort continuance, for prefently afterwards there was every appearance of a bad night ; fo that I judged it prudent top fhorten fail, and haul our wind to the Northward. We founded at eight o'clock in forty-five fathom water, over a muddy bottom : the lead was kept going, but did not ftrike the ground with fixty fathom of line. At midnight: we tacked, and at two o'clock in the morning of the 27tfi 46 A VOYAGE TO THE 17-86. January .Friday 27 C HuiA P* &7ta ag^a &w Staten's Land; the extremes bearing from South South Weft to South Eaft by South, diftant about fix leagues. The weather being moderate, we made fail, and fhaped a courfe for the Eaft end of it. Atjeight o'clock the Eail end of Staten's Land bore South South Weft five miles, and the fmall ifland oppofite New-year's Harbour, Weft South Weft, about feven leagues diftant. Soon afterwards we paflêd through a ftrong rippling, which I found was occafioned by a current fetting to the Northward. Immediately after we doubled the Eaft point of Staten's Land, I fleered South by Weft by compafs, in order to get a good offing ; not chufing to keep near the fhore, on account of the ftrong current which fets through the Straits of La Maire. At noon Cape Saint Juan, which is the Eaft cape of Staten's Land, bore North Weft by Weft half Weft, about fix leagues diftant. Our latitude was 540 57' South, and the longitude 630 33' Weft. Staten's Land is high, but the mountains near the fummit being very uneven, it gives them greatly the appearance of faddle lands. New-year's Harbour is already well known ; befides which, there is an appearance of a harbour on the North fide near the Eaft end ; there alfo feem to be two openings, one near the Weft end, the other about the middle of the ifland, and which is fituated within two fmall round iflands that are detached from Staten's Land. There was a patch of fnow on the fummit of the higheft mountain, but not any wood to be feen. 1 Seals NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 47 1786. jWluary. Friday >*7V- Seals were feen in prodigious numbers, and there is c H A p- no doubt but the fea elephant frequents this place; fb that certaaarly it would be a lucrative employ for one or two fhips -to be fent annually for oil. During the afternoon we had a moderate breeze at Weft by Northy and cloudy weather. At fix o'clock Cape Saint Juan bore North 400 Weft, about eight leagues diftant. Prefently after this, the wind fhifted gradually to the Southward,; and blew a very ftrong gale, which brought on a heavy crofs fea, and caufed- the fhip to labour exceedingly ; the wind was however by no means fteady, but veered from South to Weft, ftill blowing a frefh gale, with frequent heavy fqualls, which occafioned. us to tack as occafion required. We ftill had ftormy tempeftuous weather, the wind-con- Sundays tinning ta the Weftward ; on which I determined to ftand well to: the Southward,- by which means, after running down our Southing, we were certain of gaining, eithe^S; from a Southerly or Wefterly wind. Ouk lac&Itnde at noon on the 30th was 560 53' South, Monday 3o, and the longitude 63* 3$ Weft. A number of very large albetroflês, and many fmall pieces of rockweed, were feen about the fhip. As I was apprehenfive that a current fetus to the Eaftward, I fleered South Weft when. the wind permitted. The weather, which for fome days had been very February, ftormy, now grew moderate, and we had light breezes from the Southward, attended with a thick fog and drizzling rain. This morning I flruck a very remarkable fifli ; Wednef. 3, the hind part and tail were exactly like thofe of afhark, and 1 M#, CHAP. III. . 1786. February. Wednef. 1. Friday 3. Saturday 4. Sunday 5. A VOYAGE TOTHE and its nofe had the refemblance of a porpoife. I fhould gladly have got this fifh on board, that I might have been able to defcribe it more minutely ; but in ftruggling he extricated himfelf from the harpoon, after being ftruck near half a minute. The morning of the 3d being clear and the weather fine, I took this opportunity of getting the feamen's chefts up, and had the fhip well cleaned and fcraped fore and aft, and thoroughly aired with fires. Towards noon it grew cloudy, and a ftrong gale came on at North Weft, attended with fqualls, which increafed to a violent degree towards night ; this caufed us to hand the topfails and forefail, and bring-to under a reefed mainfail, fore and mizen flay fails. The morning of the 4 th was more moderate, but the wind ftill blew a frefh gale from the Weftward. An obferved diftance of the fun and moon gave 68° 1 Weft longitude, the latitude was 6o° 19' South. On the 5th I ordered the people one pound and a half of frefh pork a man, in addition to their allowance of fait provifions, together with an extra half allowance of brandy : this, and every indulgence in my power, I gave them with the greateft pleafure, as their behaviour has given me great fatisfaction ever fince they have been under my command. In 6o° 9' South latitude, and 700 13' Weft longitude, the mean refult of fix azimuths gave 2 6° 19' Eafterly variation. Being now well to the Southward, I fleered Weft by South whenever the wind permitted. We NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 49 We continued our voyage without making much pro- c *JILA Pt grefs, as the wind was generally in the Weftern board, «—"^~—' blowing frefh and in fqualls ; the weather very ftormy February. and unfettled. Our latitude at noon on the 18th was 8£ur ay l ' 550 31' South, and the mean refult of feveral lunar obfervations gave 8 2° 2 2' Weft longitude. During this interval every change of wind was preceded by a fudden fquall, which generally was of fhort continuance, and fucceeded by a calm : not being able to carry topgallant-fails in fuch critical weather, I kept the yards down, and the topgallant-mafts ftruck clofe down to the top fail-yards, fwaying them up, or lowering them down, as we had occafion to take reefs in the topfails : indeed I find this method of great advantage to the fhip, not only as it ferves to eafe the topmafl-heads, but makçs her hold a much better wind. On the 2 2d, the weather being very fine, I ordered the Wednef. %i. failors hammocks to be brought upon deck and their bedclothes to be well aired : being; well affured that inattention to things of this nature often occafions fatality amongft feamen. Our obfervation at noon gave 540 \ South latitude, and the longitude by lunar obfervation was 8i° 19' Weft; in this fituation we found the variation to be 22° 56' Eafterly. We ftill had fqually unfettled weather with Northerly and Wefterly winds. In the afternoon of the 25th a very ftrong gale came on Saturday 25. at North Weft; notwithftanding which we were under the neceffity of carrying more fail than the fhip could H well 'IMi! ,i4 1 CHAP TIE 1786. February. Saturday 25. A VOYAGE TO THE • well bear, in order to prevent our being driven to the Eaftward. It is the general opinion of navigators that South Weft winds prevail in this part of the Pacific Ocean conftantly, but we have experimentally found this opinion to be erroneous ; the wind for a confiderable time paft has blown from the Northward and Weftward ; generally in ftrong gales attended with fqualls. March. Sunday 5. Tuefday28. jN ^ae morning of the 28th fome feals were feen about the fhip ; a parcel of rockweed and the branch of a tree were floating in the fea. Our latitude was 520 20' South, and the longitude 830 59'Weft ; we here found 190 49' Eafterly variation. The wind ftill continued Wefterly; frequently blowing a frefh gale, with hazy weather ; however, the 5th of March proving very fine, I ordered the fhip to be well cleaned between decks, and properly aired with good fires. At that time we were in 450 58/ South latitude, and 8o° 45' Weft longitude *. During the late tempeftuous weather the water had found its way into the fail-room, and our fpare fails and canvafs were much wet : Tuefday7. the weather on the 7th being pretty favourable, they were got upon deck and well aired ; the fame opportunity was taken to repair our rigging, fome of which was much damaged. For fome days paft the wind had inclined to the Southward, and I began to conceive hopes that we fhould be * The longitude being invariably Weft, no diftinâion will be made hereafter, in order to avoid repetition. favoured a 10 ' NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. J* CHAP. in. 1786. March. favoured with 3 fteady breeze at South Weft or South South Weft, efpeciaHy as we had a prodigious fwell from that quarter, and the clouds moved brifkly towards the North Eaft; but now it again hauled to theWeftward. Indeed ap- TuefJay 7' pearances of this nature are not to be depended on in thefe feas, as we have been regularly difappointed in them for three weeks paft. Towards noon the water changed colour and had the appearance of foundings ; if fo, it muft be a confiderable diftance from fhore, our latitude being 440 20' South, and the longitude 79°49. On the 10th we had io° 41' Eafterly variation, and on Friday ro. the 12th it was 150 7' Eaft. As the variation had gra-. Sunday 12. dually been decreafing for fome time paft, I cannot account for fo material a difference, except that on the 10th we were rather more to the Eaftward, and confequently nearer the land, which poflibly might have fome effect on the compafs. The wind ftill continued to the Weftward, and brought on fo thick a fog that we feldom faw each other ; yet we were fortunate enough not to part company. On the 15 th, the weather clearing up, we got a meridian Wednef. 15. altitude, which gave 420 14'South latitude; the longitude by lunar obfervation was 850 4', and the variation 120 §f Eaft. The fog was fucceeded by fqually unfettled weather, with frequent heavy rains, and fometimes light fnow ftorms, which, however, were of fhort duration, and the weather gradually became temperate and pleafant, but the wind ftill continued to the Northward and Weftward. m 'fflK On the 21ft the latitude was 3 6° 17' South, and the Taefday2i, ave H 2 88° mean refult of feveral. fets of human obfervations gave III $i , A VOYAGE TO THE C ImA P' ^8° 7' longitude. In the afternoon I fent a boat on board u. ^ the Queen Charlotte for captain Dixon ; he came on board . March, the King George, and we determined to fland on directly Tuefdayai. ^ ^q& Majos, an ifland difcovered by the Spaniards, and fituated about 200 North latitude, and 1350 longitude. This ifland being very little out of our track, induced me to fteer for it, as there was a probability of meeting with a good harbour and water ; fo that we fhould be able to refit our veffels and refrefh the crews, without running down to the Sandwich Iflands, which were considerably out of our courfe. At the fame time we appointed Owhyhee as our place of rendezvous in cafe of feparation before we arrived at Los Majos ; there to wait for each other ten days ; and if not joined during that time, to fail for King George's Sound. Saturday 25. On the 25th, being in 3 2° 28' South latitude, and 910 51' longitude, we had a moderate fteady breeze at Eaft South Eaft, with very fine weather, and I began to. entertain hopes that we had fallen iii with a trade-wind. This forenoon the fhip was well fcraped fore and aft, aired with fires, and afterwards wafhed with vinegar ; cyder was alfo ferved to the people at the rate of a pint a man, • be- fides their ufual allowance of fpirits.. With a light Eafleriy breeze we fleered North Weft by Weft ; and at fix o'clock in. the afternoon a. fail was feen. from the maft-head, or a rock which had greatly the appearance of one, bearing North Weft by Weft half Weft.. Not being certain whether what we had feen really was a veffel, I changed our courfe to« Weft by North, and ftood under ari eafy fail ;v fo that we could eafily-haul our wind in cafe 12 of NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, $5 of danger during the night ; but foon after nine o'clock c HLUA if our doubts were changed into certainty ; for we plainly K-~*'T--J perceived the object in doubt to be either a brig or a fnow, March. Handing to the Southward. The Queen Charlotte, on feeing this veffel, fhewed a light, and on our anfwering it, the ftrange fail hoifled a light, and tacked' to the Northward. By this time fhe was rather abaft our larboard beam ; and as I did not think it prudent to make ourfelves, or our bufinefs, known to ftrangers, I kept on my courfe, and by half paft ten o'clock we loft fight of her. There is reafon to fuppofe that this ftrange fail was a Spanifh veffel, and from her plying to the Southward, fhe certainly was bound either to Baldivia or Conception on the coaft of Chili ; though I was rather furprifed at meeting, with a veffel of this defcription in fuch a fituation; we being at this, time 300 leagues from the coaft. We continued our courfe to the North Weft, without April. meeting with any thing worthy of notice. On the 2d of un ayz° April we were well within the tropics, our latitude being 210 44* South. At the fame time, the longitude by lunar obfervation was 10.20 90, and. the variation 40 58' Eaft From this till the 10th we had little variety: that after- Monday 10.. noon we paffed a turtle, and being very anxious to procure a frefh meal for my fhip's crew, I brought the fhip to, and ordered the whale-boat to be lowered down, and fent Mr. M'Leod, my firft mate,, after it. He biought it on board, but it had been dead, fome time, and was almofl in a-ftate of putrefaction; fo that we threw it overboard, and were much difappointed in our expected dainty. However, to make us fome amends for this difappointment, we picked up fe'J IF 1 m C H A m. 1786. April. Saturday 15 A VOYAGE TO THE '• up a very lively one on the 15 th, which weighed fixty-five ' pounds, and was caught juft in time for us to celebrate Eafter, the next day being Eafter Sunday. The cyder, which had been reguiarly ferved to the fhip's company for fome time paft, being expended, I ordered fome fweet wort to be made, and ferved out at the rate of half a pint per man each day. Our latitude at noon was 70 4' Sputh, and 111° £0/ longitude. We faw a large flock of white birds about the fize of a tern, and which I am inclined to think are of the fame fpecies with thofe we met with in great abundance at Chriftmas Ifland during captain Cook's laft voyage. Several turtle pafied us, and great numbers of dark-coloured birds were flying about. From thefe appearances I conjectured we were paffing near fome land ; but, though the day was clear, we could fee nothing of the kind from the mail: head. Thurfday20. On the 20th we croffed the equator, in 1150 10' longitude; the variation here was 30 28' Eaft. Saturday 22. jN tne latitude of 3° 33 North, longitude n6° 35', we found a current fetting to the Eaftward, at the rate of one mile and a half per hour, in which I changed our courfe from North North Weft to North Weft half Weft. A crofs fwell from every direction inclined me to think that we were rather too near the great bay of Panama. However, I was under the neceffity of keeping well to the Eaftward, that we might be enabled to fetch the iflands Los Majos, which, fhould they afford good water, and fome other NORTH WESr-t^OAST OF AMERICA. other refrefhments, may be hereafter of th&greatefl importance to any fhips coming round Cape Horn to the Weftern coaft of America, as they lie directly in the track for that coaft, and confequently are more convenient3N| fitbated than the Sandwich iflands. SS 1786. April. Saturday 22. I had conceived hopes, that when the South Eaft trade wind left us, it would have been fucceeded by that at North Eaft ; but we did not get a fleady North Eaft trade till the 1 ft of May in 8° 53" North latitude, and 1200 29' Ibngitâile, During this interval, we had light variable winds and' calms by turns, with clofe fultry weather and frequent heavy rains. Notwithflanding every precaution, -the feurvy made its appearance amongft us ; and the boatfwain in particular was fo bad for fome days, that I almoft defpàired of his recovery; but it fortunately happened, that fome fmall fallad, fuch as muftard and creffes, wh*ch I had fown in feveral cafks of mould procured at Falkland's Iflands, was now in great perfection. I planted fome horfe-radifh in a cafk before we left England, which was in an improving ftate, and fome potatoes, planted fince we left Falkland's Iflands, began to fprout very finely. Thefe things were given to the boatfwain, and they had every good effect that could be wifhed ; they checked the diforder, and he began to recover his health daily. This unwholefome weather had likewife affected the health of feveral feamen on board the Queen Charlotte ; and captain Dixon in particular being very bad, I went on board the Queen Charlotte, and found his diforder to be the feurvy. At my return,, I fent him a cafk of fine mould, with fallad grow- May,. Monday i. uuSH mfl I if].;, Ill II C H A III. 1786. May. Monday 1 unday A VOYAGE TO THE p* ing in it, together with fome krout, garden feeds, and a È few bottles of artificial mineral water, which was prepared by Dr. Melville, in imitation of Seltzer water, and fup- pofed to be a moft excellent antifcorbutic. We frequently caught turtle, which were conftantly ferved out amongft the. fhip's company, and I fent fome on board the Queen Charlotte. This, with the addition of krout, portable foup, and fweet-wort, contributed greatly to preferve the health of the fhips crews. In the forenoon of the 7th, we were near the fituation of the ifland Partida, according to captain Cook's general chart, but no appearances of land were feen. Indeed, this ifland was not feen by captain Cook, but copied into that chart from the authority of the Spaniards. Towards noon the wind incdining more to the Northward, we fleered North North Weft, in order that we might get into the latitude of Los Majos, without being to the Weftward of it, which I was afiaid might be the cafe, if the wind hauled to the Northward as we increafed our latitude. On the 12th, being in the latitude of 200 i' South, and 134° ii' longitude, I expected to have fallen in with the Los Majos iflands, as we were now exactly in the centre of them, according to the chart juft mentioned, but not the leaft appearance of land was to be feen. The flckly fituation of our people rendered it however abfo- lutely neceffary for us to make land as foon as poffible ; on which account we lay-to in the night-time, and fpread during the day; fo that (as we were favoured with fine clear es swamaa flrTl iljj À&W NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. clear weather, and a fteady breeze) it was impoffible for us to mifs them if they really exifted. 57 CHAP. III. 1786. May.. We ftood to the Weftward between 190 46' and 200 North latitude, till the 15th, by which time we were Monday 15. confiderably to the Weftward of Los Majos, but no fuch iflands were to be found. On which I determined to fland directly for the Sandwich Iflands, as there was a certainty of our procuring whatever refrefhments we wanted. The feurvy now attacked a number of the fhip's crew. The firft fymptoms were a fliffnefs about the knees and hams, afterwards the fhin-bones became fore; and in a few days thofe parts which before were ftiff began to fwell and turn black, and the mouth grew fore. My boatfwain had all thefe appearances to a great degree, attended with a fever and a violent pain in his head, notwithftanding which he recovered in a furprifing manner. As I never knew an inftance of a perfon recovering* from an advanced ftage of the feurvy whilft at fea, I fhall take the liberty of mentioning the regimen he was under during his illnefs, efpecially as it may be of great fervice to perfons in the fame fituation. Befides the affiftance he received from Mr. Hogan my furgeon, who was very fkil- ful in his profeffion, he had for breakfaft a pint of fweet wort, with fome foft bread, which I ordered to be made for him. About ten o'clock he gathered fome fmall fallad from the little garden I have juft mentioned ; this he ate with vinegar; for dinner he had portable foup with barley, celery feed, muftard, crefs, and rape feed boiled in it; befides which* he ate' plentifully of krout. Thefe I things-: w mm jiifi ',;.!i ! « mm.i m in in i n 58 CHAP. III. 1786. May. Monday 15. Tuefday 23. Wednef. 21 AVOYAGE TO THE things had fo good an effect, that in a fortnight he was able to do his duty as ufual : Captain Dixon likewife grew better, though flowly ; and he attributed this favourable turn in his diforder chiefly to the mineral water prepared by Dr. Melville ; a few bottles of which I fent him, as already has been related. With a fine trade breeze we fleered Weft by South, in order to make Owhyhee, the principal of the Sandwich Iflands. Our latitude on the 23d was 190 10' North, and 153° 21' longitude. In this fituation we found a current fetting to the Southward. I expected to have made the land before night came on; but towards evening the weather turned very hazy, on which we fhortened fail, and brought-to during the night. At daylight in the morning of the 24th, we bore away and made fail, and at feven o'clock Owhyhee made its appearance, the Eaft point bearing North Weft by Weft, about fix leagues diftant. Soon afterwards, having an uninterrupted view of the ifland, I kept away along fhore down the South fide, and at noon the Eaft point bore North half Weft, three leagues diftant. The Eaft and South Eaft parts of this ifland appear fertile and very pleafant ; but that part which lies South and South Weft, is quite barren, and feems to be covered with a kind of lava. By two o'clock, being within three miles of the land, and running along fhore with a moderate breeze, a number of the natives came off in their canoes, and brought with them fome fmall hogs and a few plantains, which I bought 4 I NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. I bought for beads and fmall pieces of iron. A number of their fifhing lines were purchafed, many of which were from three to four hundred fathoms long, and perfectly well made Some were made with two and others with three ftrands, and much ftronger than our lines of twice the fize. 0 CHAP. III. 1786. May. Wednef. 24.. HnD 'M m* i 1 M I ■ 6o A VOYAGE TO THE CHAP. IV. Range along the Coaft of Owhyhee.—Arrival in Karakakooa Bay.—Unruly Behaviour of the Natives.—Leave Karakakooa Bay.—Refrefhments procured along the Coaft.—Difappointed in coming to anchor at Morotoi.— Arrive at Woahoo.—Fruitlefs Search for a Watering- place.—Supplied with Water by the Natives.—Refrefhments obtained.—Departure from Woahoo.—Account of the prefent Government amongft the Sandwich Iflands, —Pafs Atoui.—Arrival at Oneehow.—TranfaSlions there. i\ 1786. May. "Wednef. 24 npHE Indians traded with cheerfulnefs, and did not ■*■ fhew any difpofition to act difhoneftly: after dif- pofing of every thing they had got to fell, and viewing the fhip all round, they returned to the fhore perfectly well pleafed. As Karakakooa Bay was the only harbour we knew of at Owhyhee, I determined to make it as foon Thurfdayz5. as poffible; and at eleven o'clock in the forenoon of the 25th we paffed the South point; but foon afterwards the wind grew variable, and frequently blew in fqualls. During the afternoon we flood to the Northward along the Weft fide of the ifland ; and being well in with the land, a number of canoes came off, bringing hogs and other refreftiments, which we chiefly purchafed with fmall pieces of iron. I had conceived hopes that we fhould have NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. have come to anchor in Karakakooa Bay this evening ; but there was very little wind, and that little was unfavourable : indeed the trade-wind is not to be expected after hauling round the South point of the ifland, as the high land to the Eaftward entirely breaks it off, and light breezes prevail from the Northward and Weftward. Soon after the day was clofed in we obferved a great number of fires all along fhore, and I was inclined to think they were lighted in order to alarm the country : indeed it is cuftomary for the natives at this ifland to light fires when they make offerings to their gods for fuccefs in war ; and this might poffibly be the cafe at prefent ; but I had obferved a fhynefs in the natives the nearer we approached Karakakooa ; they frequently enquired after captain King, and feemed by their behaviour to think that we were come to revenge the death of captain Cook. Soon after daylight on the 26th, Karakakooa bore North Eaft by Eaft, about fix leagues diftant ; and a light breeze fpringing up at North Weft, we ftood in for the bay. In the forenoon an inferior chief came on board, from whom I learned that Tereeoboo, who was king of Owhyhee when we laft were.at that ifland, was dead ; and that the prefent king's name was Maiha Maiha. He importuned me very ftrongly to go on fhore ; but on my declining it, and making him a prefent, he informed me that Maiha Maiha would pay me a vifit on the morrow ; but I paid little regard to this piece of intelligence, as it was not likely that Maiha Maiha would venture on board after the active part he took in that unfortunate affray which terminated in the much-lamented death of captain Cook. Many 9 61 CHAP. IV. 1786. May. Thurfdayzc. Friday 26, «M il 62 CHAI IV. u«—~-— 1786. May. Friday 26. A VOYAGE TO THE Many canoes now came along-fide, and the people were very importunate to come on board ; they behaved in a very daring infolent manner ; and it was with difficulty they were prevailed on to quit the fhip ; however, I bore all this with patience, being unwilling to ufe violence if it could poffibly be avoided ; though at the fame time I was, much afraid from thefe appearances, that we fhould not be able to do our bufinefs at Karakakooa with eafe and fafety, particularly to fill our water and get the fick people on fhore. As we approached the harbour, great numbers of canoes joined us, and many of them hanging by the fhip, retarded our progrefs fo much, that it was near four o'clock in the afternoon before we came to an anchor. I moored with the beft bower to the Weftward in nine fathom water, over a bottom of white fand, and the fpare anchor to the Eaftward, in feven fathom, over the fame bottom. The Weft point of the bay bore Weft, and the South point South half Weft, diftant from the beach at the bottom of the bay about a quarter of a mile. Soon after our anchor was gone, we were furrounded by an amazing number of the natives, both in canoes and in the water; they grew very troublefome, conftantly crawlkg up the cable and the fhip's fides ; fo that moft of the feamen were employed in keeping the veffel clear, and it was not without fome difficulty that we got moored. During this time no chief who had any command on the people made his appearance, which was rather unfortunate ; for if I could have got a perfon of confequence on m NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. on board, he would have kept the reft in order, and our bufinefs would have been carried on with eafe and dif- patch. In the courfe of the afternoon we procured a number of fine hogs, and a good quantity of fait, together with plantains, potatoes, and taro, which laft was the fineft I ever faw, and not in the leaft inferior to yams : bread-fruit was fcarce, and the little we got was not in a perfect: ftate; fo that I conclude this is not the proper feafbn for it. At night fires were lighted all round the bay, and the people on fhore were in confiant motion ; feveral canoes continued near the fhip, and about midnight one of the natives brought off a lighted torch, feemingly with an intention of fetting fire to the veffel : on our driving him away, he paddled to the Queen Charlotte, but there they were equally on their guard ; on which he again went on fhore. 63 1786. May. Friday a6. iiiltti By daylight the next morning we were vifited by a vaft Saturday 27, multitude of the natives ; but ftill no chief was to be feen who had power fufficient to keep them in order, and they grew fo daring and infolent, that I was under the neceffity of placing centinels with cutlaffes to prevent their boarding us. This unexpected reception convinced me that we could do nothing with fafety on fhore without the protection of a ftrong guard; and our taking a ftep of that kind might probably be attended with fatal confequences ; fo that I deter- HfflH P"ll i w Pi 64 A" VOYAGE TOT H» E c HIVA p- determined to leave Karakakooa as foon as poffible. I « J-—y acquainted captain Dixon with my intention of failing, May." and the reafons I had for it : his opinion reflecting the Saturday 27. jffp0fltion of the inhabitants exactly agreed with my own. Notwithstanding the vaft concourfe of Indians that were affembled about the fhips, we faw great numbers collected in bodies on fhore ; fome on the beach, and others on the top of a hill which commands the watering-place* ; and there appeared to be many chiefs among them. At nine o'clock I gave orders to unmoor, but the crowd of people around the fhip was fo great, that our boats could fcarcely pafs to the buoys : in this fituation it was abfolutely neceffary for us to drive them away, and I was defirous of ufing fome method that would frighten, without hurting them ; accordingly, after drawing out the fhot, we fired fix four-pounders and fix fwivels ; at the fame time our colours were hoifted, and the fhip tabooed, by hoifting a white flag at the main-topgallant-maft-head : this had the defired effect ; for, immediately on our beginning to fire, the Indians made for the fhore with the utmoft precipitation ; in the hurry and confufton occafioned by this alarm, many canoes were overfet ; the owners, however, did not flay to right them, but fwam immediately on fhore. We now had an opportunity of unmooring without mo- leftation, and foon after eleven o'clock, having light baffling winds, began to warp out of the bay to the Weftward ; at five o'clock, judging myfelf in a good fituation to wait for the land-breeze, which ufually blows off towards «Iff NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. «5 wards evening, we let go an anchor, and prefently were c **A p- vifited by a number of canoes, who brought us fome good j———* hogs,- a quantity of fait, and vegetables of various kinds. May. j Saturday z At feven o'clock a breeze fpringing up from the land, we weighed and flood to the South Weft until our diftance from Karakakooa was about three leagues : I then brought-to, with an intention of Handing off and on for twenty-four hours, in order to traffic with the natives ; being convinced that it is the beft and fafeft method of procuring any refrefhments the ifland of Owhyhee affords. . Early next morning we were furrounded by canoes, Sunday$$. and. a brifk trade commenced, in the courfe of which we purchafed a number of fine hogs, and vegetables of various kinds. Many of our people were employed in killing and falting down hogs for fea-flore ; our prefent fituation being much better calculated for carrying on that bufinefs than in harbour ; for now we had a fine free air, whereas in Karakakooa Bay the weather is fo extremely •clofe and fultry, that there is a great probability of the meat being fpoiled even after it is falted. At noon we were Handing along fhore to the Northward, : with a light wefterly breeze and fine weather. Karakakooa Bay then bore Eaft half South, diftant three leagues, -and the high land of Mowee North North Weft. Many canoes ftill kept about the mips, and fome of #he natives brought off water in calabafhes, which wè purchafed for nails. Indeed water now began to be an •article of the firft confequence to us ; our 5 2d butt being K a-broach, 1786. May. Sunday 28. Mondî A VOYAGE TOi THE chap, a-broach, and there was as yet no certainty of our watering amongft thefe iflands : the refrefhments, however, that we already had procured, were of great fervice to the fick people, all of whom daily got better. During the night we ftood off and on, with variable winds and hazy weather. In the morning of the 29th the Southernmoft part of Owhyhee in fight bore South South Eaft. half Eaft, twelve leagues diftant ; the North-- ernmoft part North by Eaft, ten leagues ; and the body of Mowee North North Weft half Weft, nine leagues diftant.. The natives of Owhyhee ftill followed the veffels with, hogs and vegetables, and we ftood to. the North Northi Weft under an eafy fail, that the canoes might be enabled to keep up with us. or to At fix o'clock in the afternoon a frefh breeze fprun tip at North Eaft, which brought on a crofs fwell, and obliged all the canoes to leave us and make for the fhore. During the night we. had frefh gales and cloudy weather, which occafioned us to fhorten fail and tack, Tuefday^o. occafionally. Towards morning the weather moderated.. At eight o'clock Mowee bore from North half Eaft to Eaft North Eaft, diftant four leagues, and the Weft end of Ranai North North Weft, two leagues diftant. The unfettled ftate of the weather, and the uncertainty of our being able to water the fhips at thefe iflands, induced ms to put the fhip's company to an allowance of water, at the rate of two quarts a-man a-day. Towards noon a few canoes came off from Ranai, but brought nothing: of ' O fc> any llIlMm'lUlliMIIIUllWIWIWIilliyijmiiJIkUMlM^ i NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 67 1786. May. Tuefday 30, any confequence to barter. At three o'clock, being about c **A p- one mile and a half from fhore, we founded with a line of 100 fathom, but got no bottom. The Wefternmoft point of Morotoi now bore North Weft by Weft, eio-ht or nine leagues diftant ; and foon afterwards a frefh breeze coming on at North Eaft, I ftood directly over for that ifland : by fix o'clock the Weft end, which is low and rocky, bore North Weft, diftant three leagues ; and I had fome hopes of getting round the point, and anchoring in a bay fituatcd on the Weft fide of Morotoi, but the breeze rather failing, we had not daylight fufficient to accom- plifh our purpofe ; on this, we hauled up the courfes and brought-to, the Queen Charlotte being confiderably aftern. w At half paft feven o'clock, the Queen Charlotte being well up, we filled and ftood to the South Eaft under the topfails ; at the fame time the Weft point of Morotoi bore North Weft two leagues, and the Eafternmoft point North Eaft, fix leagues diftant. At three o'clock next morning we wore and ftood in Wednef>3i. for the land ; but when daylight came on, I was greatly furprifed to find that we had been driven in the night eight or nine leagues to the South Weft ; fo that inftead of fetching in with the Weft point of Morotoi, as I expected, the wind being well to the Eaftward, I found we fcarcely fhould be able to weather the Eaft point of Woa- Jhoo, round which we knew there was anchorage. Mr m1 These difappointments mortified me a good deal, as I was very defirous to look for water in the bay on the Weft K 2 B fide i!M lg ii : i 68 CHAP. IV. *_ , i» 1786. May. Wednef. 3a. A VOYAGE TO TH.E fide of Morotoi, where, from the appearance of the land, it was likely we fhould find fome. Had that plan failed, we then fhould have been able to. get round the Eaft point of Woahoo with a large wind ; but finding now that it ..would be a 'work of fome days to get in with the Weft end of Morotoi, I gave it. up, and ftood for the Eaft point of Woahoo, wjjuch then bore North Weft, under all the &il we could carry, with a moderate breeze at Eaft North Eaft. For fome time appearance^ were greatly in our favour. Indeed I believe we fhould eafily have fetched round the point; but about ten o'clock, the Queen C&adotte being a confiderable way on our lee quarter, I was- afraid fhe would not t}£ able to weather the ifland, as I could plainly perceive we had a ftrong current fetting ta the South Weft. On this we tacked and ftood towards her, and foon afterwards wore and ftretched to the Northward- Juft at this time the wind hauled round to the Eaftward, and we again ftood on-, in hopes of fetching our intended fituation.. However, about half paft eleven o'clock, the. Queen Charlotte drove in more, and captain Dixon finding he could not weatlier the point, tacked, which occasioned us to tack immediaJtely afterwards.. At noon, thfe: outermoft rock off the North Eaft point of Woahoo bore- North North Weft about four leagues, and the Southern- moft part of the ifland in fight South. Weft half Weft, five miles diftant. The ifland of Wbahpo between the South Eaft and North Eaft points appears high and craggy| forming into.*, feveral high rocks:, within which there appears to be tolerable fhelter; but as the wind blew frefh, and right on ■ fhore.. iiUMWMHWJMtwama«a!Httm! I NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 69 fhore, I did no% think it prudent to run in With a lee c H A p* fhore to look for anchorage. !—id—' & 1786. |ljc June. . We plied in this uncertain ftate till noon on the ill of Thurfday | June, when finding it would be impracticable for us to get round the North Eaft point of the ifland without wafting more time than could be fpared, we bore away $qx the South Eaft point ; and at one o'clock being well up with it, a fine bay made its appearance, which pro- mifed to afford good anchorage. We hauled round the point, and ftood in for the bay. Soon afterwards, the whale-boat was lowered down, and fent in fhore to found.- At half paft two o'clock we came to an anchor in the bay, which I diftinguiined by the name of King George's Bay, in twelve fathom water, over a bottom of fpeckled fand and broken fhells, and moored with the beft bower to the Eaftward, and a kedge to the Weftward. The Eaft point of the bay, which I diftinguifhed by- the name of Point Dick, in honour of Sir John Dick, the firft patron1 of this voyage, bore Eaft by North one mile and a half;, the Weft point, which was named Point Rofe, after George: Rofe Efq. fecretary of the treafury, the fécond worthy patron of our undertaking, bore Weft South Weft half Weft, about two leagues,, and the bottom, of the bay North,;, two miles diftant. Soon after our arrival, feveral canoes came off and' brought a few cocoa-nuts, and: plantains, fome fugar-cane and fweet root | in return for which we gave them fmall pieces of iron and a. few trinkets.. Towards evening, a frefh breeze coming on at Eaft North Eaft, our visiters left us, and returned on fhore.. Next ,11 ItljLj iff iii. I I 1 I» I 7° CHAP. IV. 1786. June. Friday z. A VOYAGE TO THE Next morning at daylight we had feveral canoes about the fhip, which brought us a few fmall hogs and fome vegetables. Great numbers of both fexes were in the water, impelled by curiofity to pay us a vifit, notwith- flanding our diftance from fhore. As watering the fhips was now become an object of the firft confideration, I went on fhore early in the morning, accompanied by captain Dixon, in order to find out a convenient fpot for that purpofe. We landed on fome rocks juft round Point Dick, quite dry, and met with no oppofition from the inhabitants ; on the contrary, they received us with great kindnefs, and anfwered every queftion we afked them very readily. On our inquiring for frefh water, they conducted us to fome, which was lodged in a kind of bafon, formed by the rocks, about fifty yards from the place where we landed ; but the quantity was fo fmall, that it would not afford even a temporary fupply. On this we continued our inquiries along fhore, and were informed that there was no frefh water to be met with but at a confiderable diftance to the Weftward Iff After making the Indians fome trifling prefents, we returned to the boats, and rowed to the Northward, clofe to a reef, which appeared to run quite acrofs the bay, about a quarter of a mile diftant from the beach. Having proceeded nearly a mile in this direction, a fmall opening in the reef prefented itfelf, for which we fleered. The channel was narrow, but in the middle we had two fathoms water ; and after getting through, there was from three to four fathoms over a bottom of fine fand, and good room between the reef and the beach for a number of veffels to ti NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. to ride at anchor. We landed on a fine fandy beach amidft a vaft number of the inhabitants, who all behaved with great order, and never attempted to approach nearer ta us than we defired. They informed us that there was no water near our landing-place, but that we fhould find plenty farther down along fhore, and one of the natives accompanied us as a guide : however, our progrefs was foon impeded by a little fait water river that has a communication with King George's Bay. This putting a flop-to our progrefs by land, we again had recoUrfe to our boats, and attempted to get to the Weftward within the reef; but the water was fo fhallow that it was impracticable; fo that we returned through the paffage we came in at, and afterwards rowed to the Weftward, keeping clofe along the outfide of the reef, until we got near the watering-place pointed out to us by the Indians. In this fituation, feeing a fmall opening in the reef, we made for it ; and the moment we entered, a breaker overtook us, which almoftV filled and nearly overfet our boats. However, through the pood management of the fleerfmen, who were mine' DO ' and captain Dixon's third mates, we efcaped without any misfortune ; though- we had the mortification, after getting over the reef, to find the water fo fhoal, that our boats could not get within 200 yards of the fhore* Under thefe circumftances, I found that we could not water at this place without an infinite deal of trouble, befides the danger of lofing our cafks, getting the boats dafhed to pieces againft the rocks, and the inconvenience of carrying our cafks fo far amongft a multitude of Im-- dians, which would 'make it neceffary to have an armed, force on fhore, the fhips lying at too great at diftance for theiii 1786. June. Friday z A VOYAGE TO THE them to cover or fecure a watering party; I therefore gave up the idea of watering at this fpot, and determined to fend two boats the firft opportunity to examine the Weftern part of the bay for a good landing place and convenient watering. I returned on board at noon, and found a pretty brifk trade carrying on for fmall hogs, fugar-cane, and vegetables; having given orders to Mr. Hill, on my leaving the fhip, to purchafe every refrefhment which the natives brought alongfi.de. No time was now to be loft in coming to fome conclusive determination respecting our future tranfactions ; I faw but little probability of watering the fhips with our own boats: but captain Dixon, as well as myfelf, was of opinion, that the Indians might be induced to bring off water to the fhips, fufficient at leaft for a temporary fupply. At ail events, ï knew there was enough in each veffel to ferve near three months with proper care, but it was all in the ground tier; I therefore determined to have all our water •got to hand, and the ground tier filled with fait water- In the mean time, our fpare hands could be well employed in repairing the rigging, and making the veffels in every refpect fit for the further profecution of our voyage, fo foon as the crews were well refrefhed; and our prefent fituation being the moft eligible one we knew of at thefe iflands, we refolved aot to quit it before all our bufinels was completed. Saturday j. Early in the morning of the 3d I difpatched Mr. Hay- ward and Mi\ White in a boat from each fhip to examine the mum NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA 73 û i* p ft the Weft part of ^fee bay for a ÎMiiing-jSiâce and freffe water. They MkeWïfe had orders ïo kÉki, andftSÉké an è&- »—~- curfion to that j*a£t of th€ îôâfifed fèfând Pote Rofe, sfè fo*el there appeared from the fhip to be a firi^-èfeep bay in t&Kt s?aVda}r 5 fituation. The natives itow began to brmg us wafter prefi^- &rifkly, and fome; ©f théti catafeafhes coïïMÊikà near tea plions ; for one of the^ we gave a tenpeàriy nail, which was m®ëh Reaper tfean we eb#M poffibl^ jnocure the water ourfelves, allowing for the damage mti boats would fuftain, and the prefents we fhould be obliged to make on fhore £© the chïéis. The weather being very fine, oufc ailing people were fent on fhore under the care of my furgeon ; and as the inhabitants had hitherto behaved in a quiet inoffenfive manner, there was no great danger of their being molefted„ No chiefs of confequence paid us a vifit as yet: the"inferior chiefs indeed came on board without any fcruple, and fome of them flept with us every- night. Amongft the reft I had a daily vifit from an old prieft, who always brought by way of prefent, a fmall pig, and a branch of the cocoa-nut tree. From him I learnt, that their prefent king's name was Taheeterre, and that he was alfo king of Morotoi and Mowee. The old man informed me, that his refidence was in a bay round the Weft point, and importuned me very much to carry the fhips there, as that place, he faid, afforded plenty of fine hogs and vegetables. Indeed, I liad fome reafon to think, that the inhabitants on that part of the ifland were more numerous than in King George's Bay, as I obferved moft of the double canoes came round the Weft point; but as the people now brought us plenty L SR of It!! I I 11 1 ft I Win : 74 A VO Y AG E TO THE m 1786. June. Saturday 3. c ha p. 0f water, I determined to keep my prefent -fituation, it being in many refpects a very eligible one ; for we hitherto had been favoured with a moft refrefhing fea breeze, which blows over the low land at the head of the bay ; and the bay all round has a very beautiful appearance, the low land and vallies being in a high, ftate of cultivation, and crowded with plantations of taro, fweet potatoes, fugar- &c. interfperfed with a great number of cocoa-nut Sunday 4. cane, trees, which renders the profpect truly delightful. In the afternoon the boats returned, and Mr. Hayward reported that he had landed in the Weft part of the bay, where he found a pond of ftanding water ; but it was very inconveniently - fituated, and could not be got at without difficulty. He afterwards walked up to a riling ground, from which he could perceive the land round the Weft point of King George's Bay to fall in and form a fine deep bay running well to the Northward, and the Weftmoft land ftretching out to the Southward: this however by no means induced me to change our fituation. Towards evening the furgeon returned on board with the convalefcents, and informed me, that the inhabitants had behaved in a very quiet inoffenfive manner, though they were rather incommoded by the multitudes which curiofity brought about them. By this time all our water from the ground tier was got to hand, and the cables coiled down. The inhabitants now brought us water in fuch plenty, that by noon on the 4th all our empty cafks were filled, having procured twenty- nine butts, eight hogfheads, and three brandy-pieces, which contained NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA. contained 1 30 gallons each. As good water in any quantity may be procured at this ifland with the greateft facility for fmall nails and buttons, it undoubtedly muft be the fafeft and moft expeditious method any perfon can adopt who may chance to touch here, to barter for their water in the manner we did. Potatoes and taro are like- wife met with here in great plenty, but I never obferved any bread-fruit, and fcarcely any yams; fo that there is reafon to fuppofe they are not cultivated by the inhabitants of Woahoo. n C H A IV. <—., » ,. 1786. June. Sunday 4. P. Having completed our water, and procured fuch refrefhments as Woahoo afforded, I determined to proceed to Oneehow without lofs of time, in order to get a fupply of yams, which I knew that ifland produced in great plenty and perfection. Accordingly, at feven o'clock in the morning of the 5th, we weighed and ftood to the Weft- Monday ward under an eafy fail, with a moderate breeze at North Eaft. As we apprqached Point Rofe, a vafl number of double canoes joined us, which came out of that bay to the Weftward, feen by Mr. Hayward, and which obtained the name of Queen Charlotte's Bay. An excellent bay it appears to be, ftretching well both to the Northward and Southward. The Southern extreme forms itfelf into a flattifh point, which I diftinguifhed by the name of Point Banks, in honour of Sir Jofeph Banks. Point Banks bears Weft by North from Point Rofe, diftant about twelve miles. From each of thefe points there runs a ridge of rocks for about three quarters of a mile; but they always fhew themfelves by breakers, and coloured water, Ii Lti.i-a When i H A IV. 178$. June. Moaday 5. P. A VOYAGE TO THE When we were ar-brcaft of Point Rofe, my old vifiter the prieft fame on board in a liaige double canoe *y bringing with h ira: a vefyy good feathered cap, as a prefèûît fœ* me from Taheeterre ; in return for which, I fent him two iarge toa&ees and fome other trifles of little value ; I alfo gave the old prieft a light-horfemarta.'capi, and another to a, young chief who had almoft conftanriy been on board fince my ariffml at the i$and ; being desôroias to fhew any fiature navigators who might happen to touch here, that this place had recently been vifited by Britifh fhips. My guefts were highly delighted with their prefents, and after many profeftjons of frieadfhipi, they took their leave and went on £ho*& At noon Point Dick, which is the South Eaft point of Woahoo^ bore Eaft by North feven leagues,, and Point Banks, the South Weft Point, North Weft half Weft, four leagues diftant» After paffing Point Banks, we hauled to the North Weft, and with a moderate Eafterly breeze, ftretched along the Weftern part of the ifland, accompanied by feveral canoes, who brought fome flying fifh to fell, the Largeft I ever faw ; many of them meafuring from ten to twelve inches in length, and thick in proportion. Thefe fifh are caught in nets, which the people here manage .with great dexterity,. The. Weft fide of Woahoo is vesy high and uneven^ and near the fhore there appear to be feveral final! detached iflands, within which there is a probabillitw of meetv ing with good anchorage.. From the Nofth Weft, to the South Weft points:,, the land iaçends North Weft and Sou tit Eaft, and liew.ife feems. to promife well for anchoring ground ; but the day being very hazy, we were prevented froms wbbms nm &ORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA. from exadnrtkig it diftinctly, Before I quit Woahoo let me obferve, that I tfaiak it the fineft ifland m the group, and moft capable of being turned to advantage, were it fettled by Europeaj&fe* than any &f the reft -y there being fijsarcely a fpot which does not appear fertile. Here we found a great number of warriors and warlike inftruments ;, many o£ the wa$ri©r^:were tattooed in a manner totally di#-* ferent from any I ever took notice of amongft the Sandwich Iflands-j their faces were tattooed fo>as to appear quiM black, befides great part of the body being tattooed in a ¥ariety of fskois» The greafcefl part of the daggers left by m- at thefe iflands during our laffe voyage,, at prefent feem to centre here ; for we fcarcely ever faw a large canoe that the people in her had not one a-piece ; and at Owhyhee I do not remember feeing more than two or three. As they are very dangerous and defbac^we weapons, I did not fuffer any to be made in either flkip, though flrongly importuned to it by many of the natives : indeed I always thought it the laft voyage a very imprudent aélion to fornifh- the Indians witÉé weapons which;,- at orw timee or others might fee turned againft ourfelves ;. and my fufpicions were but too well founded; for with one of the daggers given by us to thev natives "of Owhyhee my much lamented commander captain Cook was killed ; and- but for them,; that ornament V& the Britifh nation mighfc have lived to hare enjoyed the fruits of his labour in eafe and affluence,, after a femes of years fpent in the fervice of his countvyy and for the benefit of mankind in general : he, however, unfortunately let the example,, by ordering fome c H 77 A P. IV. 1786. June. Monday 5.. m m m 'Il r3 A VOYAGE TO THE ! : c H1VA p- fome daggers to b 1786. June. Monday s made after the model of the Indian Pahooas ; and this practice was afterwards followed by every perfon who could raife iron enough to make one ; fo that during our flay at thefe iflands, the armourer was employed to little other purpofe than in working thefe definitive weapons ; and fo liberally were they difpofed of, that the morning we were running into Karakakooa bay, after the Refolution had fprung her foremaft, I faw Maihà Maiha get eight or nine daggers from captain Clarke, in exchange for a feathered cloak ; though fince our arrival at Woahoo, I have purchafed fome cloaks confider- ably better than that of captain Clarke's, for a fmall piece of iron worked into the form of a carpenter's plane-bit : thefe the Sandwich iflanders make ufe of as adzes, and call them towees ; and to them they anfwer every -purpofe wherever an edge-tool is required. Since the year 1778, at, which time the Sandwich Iflands were difcovered, there appears to have been an almoft total change in their government : from every thing I now have been able to learn, Taheeterre, the prefent king of Woahoo, is the only furviving monarch we left amongft the iflands at that period; he then was king of Morotoi only ; and Pereeoranne, who then governed Woahoo, was at war with him, and had fent a number of fighting canoes to attack his dominions. It feems that Pereeoranne's forces were worfted on this occafion ; for prefently afterwards, Taheeterre took pof- feffion of Woahoo ; and, flufhed with this fucçefs, he attacked .and conquered the ifland of Mowee ; which, as- already has been obferved, is now annexed to his domi- nions. Tereeoboo, who at that time was king of Owhy- 7 hee NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. hee and Mowee, fell in battle whilft defending his dominions. I have no reafon to doubt the truth of thefe relations ; for Maiha Maiha, the prefent king of Owhyhee, at the time we laft were there, was only an inferior chief, and is now, as I underftand, in fome meafure fubject to Taheeterre ; befides which, the Woahoo chiefs having in their pofleflion moft of the daggers we left at Owhyhee,. is a moft convincing proof that they have been victorious ; for I am very certain the natives at thefe iflands will never part with their weapons but at the expence of their lives-. From the beft account our fhort flay would permit me to obtain, the principal of the Sandwich Ifles were at this time governed by the following perfons : Woahoo, Morotoi, and Mowee, were fubject to Taheeterre ; Maiha Maiha governed Owhyhee and Ranai;. and a chief whofe name I underftand is Ta'aao, was king of Atooi and Oneehow. With a light breeze at North Eaft we fttetched to the North Weft during the afternoon, and were followed by canoes, bringing fmall hogs and vegetables, although our diftance from the land was confiderable. 79 C H A P. IV. j r~—' 1786. June. Monday 5» ■W4Ê u At eight o'clock in the morning of the 6th- the North Tuefday 6, part of Woahoo bore Eaft North Eaft, nine leagues ; and the South Weft part South Eaft by Eaft, ten leagues diftant ; the ifland of Atooi appeared in fight, bearing North Weft by Weft, diftant twelve leagues. We now had light variable winds, with calms by turns ; the weather very clofe and fultry. Our obfervation" at noon gave 210 36' North latitude : in this fituation we found a pretty ftrong current fetting Weft Nortk Weft. At 11 il il n» 80 CHAP. IV. "778.6. June. Tuefôay 6. A VOYAGE TO THE At eight o'clock the extremes of Atooi bore from North Weft, to Weft half North, the neareft land about five leagues diftant. The night was fpent in Handing off and on ; as I wifhed to run well in with the South fide of Atooi on the morrow, in order to give the natives an opportunity of bringing us vegetables ; the flock we procured at Woahoo beginning to run fhort. Wednef. 7. At five o'clock in the morning of the fth we bore away and made fail with a fine breeze from the Eaftward, which brought us by eight o'clock within two leagues of the land. II pi The land on the Eaft and South Eaft part of Atooi, rifes gradually from the fea-fide till it terminates in high land, which feems fituated near the centre of the ifland ; thefe hills are clothed to the fummits with lofty trees, whofe verdure has a beautiful appearance ; the land next the fhore affords a few bufhes, but feems quite uncultivated, and deftitute of inhabitants. On the Eaftern fhore there are a few fmall fândy bays, -but they afford no fhelter for fhip to ride in ; being quite expofed to Eafterly winds, which blow directly on fhore^ and generally prevail here. After pairing the South Eaft" point, we found the land cultivated in general, and houfes were fcattered here and there all along, fhore to the Weftward : by noon we had feveral canoes about the fhip, from whom we procured a few vegetables ; but the furf ran fo high on the beach, 8 that I m NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. S:è that the natives could not bring off any confiderable c H A m qjuantity. «— 1 June. As I knew Atousr afforded plenty of fine hogs, and a Wednef"7' variety of other refrefhments; we flood on for Wyrnoa Bay, where captain Cook anchored the laft voyage ; as I was defirous of procuring fome good hogs for faking, and alfo fome to carry wirtth me to fea. By three o'clock we were nearfly a-breaft of the bay, when the wind inclined to the Southward, and blew fo frefh, that the ânchcaring- ground was very unfafe to ride in ; being entirely expofed to Southerly winds, which fend in a heavy crofs-fea : I therefore did not think it prudent to truft the mips in fuch a fituation ; fo wore, and ftood for Oneehow, under all the fail we could carry. At four o'clock thejextrem.es of Oneehow bore from North North Weft half Weft, to South Weft by Weft, about four leagues diftant from the neareft land. The South point of this ifland forms a remarkable high bluff, rifing on all fides to a confiderable height, and breaking off abruptly. About five leagues to the Eaftward, it has the appearance of a detached ifland, being joined to the main by a low flip of land, which is not feen more than three leagues diftant. At feven o'clock the South point bore Weft by North about two miles, and the Eafternmoft part of the ifland, North North Eaft, four leagues diftant. Finding we had not fufficient daylight to bring us into the bay on the Weft fide of Oneehow, we fhortened fail, and hauled on a wind to the Southward ; intending to fpend the night in Handing off and on. At eleven o'clock we wore, and made the fignal to the Queen JVI Charlotte, i,'i M m HAP. IV. i 1786. June. Wednefc 7. Thurfday 8. A VOYAGE TO THE Charlotte, but fhe not obferving it, continued Handing to the Southward ; foon afterwards having nearly loft fight of each other, we wore, and ftood after her. Having joined company, we again wore at one o'clock, and ftood to the Northward. This miftake nearly occafioned us to- mifs Oneehow ; for, by Handing too long to the Southward, we got into a current which fet us fo ftrongly to the South Weft, that at daylight next morning, though the wind hung well to the Eaftward, we could fcarely fetch a league to the Eaftward of the Weft point. At fix o'clock the South and Eaft points of Oneehow in one, bore North Eaft half North; our diftance then from "the neareft land was about two miles. I now perceived that we could weather well to the Eaftward of the road ; therefore ftretched along fhore, about the diftance of one mile,, and had regular foundings from twenty to fixteen fathoms water, over a bottom of fine fand. The wind ftill continuing well to the Eaftward, I was tempted to run down and look into the Weft bay. At nine o'clock we hauled round the Weft point, and opened a bay, which I found to be a very good one ; the foundings from fifteen to feventeen fathoms water, over a fine fandy bottom,, and diftant at leaft two miles from fhore. After running a-breaft the South Weft part of the bay, we anchored with the beff bower in eighteen fathoms water, over a fandy bottom, and moored with a kedge to the Weftward in twenty- four fathoms water : the extremes of the bay bearing from. North by South to South Eaft ; from which kft point we were not more than half a mile diftant. From the North point of the bay a ledge of rocks extend themfelves in a direction nearly Eaft and Weft, for more than half a mile ;: fome of r,,;,i^"r—sm NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. «J of which appear above water, and the extent of the reft c ** A p may eafily be known by the furf that continually breaks j—|b# over them. mm Thurfday-8. About the middle of the bay is a fine fandy beach, within a quarter of a mile of which a fhip may moor in feven and eight fathoms water, over a bottom of fine fand ; and boats may land with great eafe and fafety. No fooner were we moored, than feveral canoes vifited us, bringing yams, fweet potatoes, and a few fmall pigs; for which we gave in exchange nails and beads. Amongft the people in thefe canoes were feveral whofe faces I remembered to have feen when at this ifland before ; particularly an old prieft, in whofe houfe a party of us took up our abode, when detained all night on fhore by a heavy furf, and who treated us in a very friendly manner. Our principal bufinefs here was to procure a good flock of yams ; and thefe I had the pleafure to fee brought to us in tolerable plenty. I was alfo defirous to obtain a further fupply of good hogs for faking ; but this at prefent was very doubtful: for as yet we had feen very few., and the largeft did not weigh more than twenty pounds. I expected to find no difficulty in getting water, at leaft fufficient for our daily ufe ; as Mr. Bligh, who was mafter of the Refolution during our laft voyage, and difcovered the bay we now lay in, went on fhore in order to examine this part of the ifland, and met with two wells of frefh water in the neighbourhood of our prefent fituation. Early next morning we were furrounded by canoes, Friday 9. who brought a plentiful fupply of yams, and fome fugar- M 2 I cane. ii WMiiMI Il I' 1 «4 VOYAGE TO THE y i i nil H c HVA p- cane. A chief, named Abbenooe, whom I knew when «—*—i at îÉis ifland before, alfo paid me a vifit, and recognized June*. his old acquaintance the moment he came on board. Fnday 9. j_javjng appointed' fix perfons to trade with the natives for yams, and given orders to have them dried and flowed away, I went on fhore in fearch of the wells mentioned by Mr. Bligh, accompanied by Abbenooe as a guide. When we landed, a number of the natives who were affembled on the beach retired to a confiderable diftance, and we walked to the wells without the leaft moleftation. I found one of them brackifh and ftinking.; the other afforded good water, but in na great quantity. The good water was fituated about half a mile to the Eaftward of the beach, and the direct path to it was over a fait marfh: to avoid which a confiderable circuit muft be taken, which renders the fituation very inconvénient. Indeed, a fhip in diftrefs for water might procure it here, though much time muft be fpent in doing it. I would recommend it to all fhips watering amongft Indians, to have a fufficient number of cafks hooped with wood inftead of iron, for the purpofe of filling on fhore. Thefe might afterwards be ftarted into other cafks in the boats. By this means much mifchief might be avoided; for the Indians, having no temptation to ileal them, probably would behave in a peaceable manner, and might Safely be trufted to affift in rolling the cafks. After examining thefe wells, I made an excurfion into the country, accompanied by Abbenooe, and a few of the natives. The ifland appears well cultivated; its principal produce is yams. There are befides, fweet potatoes, fugar- cane, and the fweet root which is called tee by the natives. 6 "A few WaOBBH mmaBtmrnmsmmm J* NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. A few trees are fcattered here and there, but in little order or variety. Some that grew near the well juft mentioned were about fifteen feet high, and proportionably thick ; with fpreading branches, and a fmooth bark; the leaves were round, and they bore a kind of nut fomewfeat r'ejèm- bling our walnut. Another kind were nine feet high, and had bloflbms of a beautiful pink colour. I alfo noticed another variety, with nuts growing on them like our horfe chefnut. Thefe nuts, I underftand, the inhabitants ufe as a fubftitute for candles, and they give a moft excellent light. Having viewed every thing remarkable on this fide the ifland, I repaired on board, accompanied by my good friend Abbenooe, and found a brifk trade carrying on for vegetables. A few hogs had alfo been purchafed, fufficient for daily confumption, H A IV. % P. 1786. June. Friday 9. .IMI'HN W I A VOYAGE TO THE m- II B CHAP. V. Continuation of TranfaElions at Oneehow.—Method of faking Pork in tropical Climates.—Departure from Onee- how,—Method of brewing the fweet Root.—Arrive hi fight of the Coaft of America.—Stand on for Coolis River.—Meet with fome Ruffian Settlers.—Arrival in Cook's River.—Vifited by the Ruffian Chief.—Anchor in Coal Harbour.—Various Employments there.— Abundance of Salmon.—Vifit the Ruffian Settlement.—' Their Mode of Living defcribed.—Proceed farther up the .River. T HAVE already obferved, that Oneehow belonged to •*• Ta'aao, king of Atoui. I now learnt that he was there at prefent, and that Abenooe governed Oneehow in his -abfence. I made the old man a prefent of fome red baize, and two large towes, which he fent away immediately to Ta'aao at Atoui, and gave me to underftand that I might expect plenty of hogs and vegetables from that place in confequence of this prefent. I placed no great reliance on this Saturday io, piece of information ; but in the afternoon of the 10th I was agreeably furprifed to fee Abbenooe's mefienger return, accompanied by feveral large double canoes, which brought a number of fine hogs to be difpofed of, together with taro and fugar-cane. The meffenger gave me to underftand, that Ta'aao himfelf meant to have paid me a vifit ; but that he could not 5 leave chap. v. 1786. June. Friday 9. Ill II ill «tu 1786. June. Saturday 10.- 5- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. leave Atoui under fix or feven days, being detained there during that, time, in order to perform fome religious ceremonies for one of his wives, who was lately dead; and this intelligence was alfo confirmed by Abbenooe. However, I had no great reafon to regret the abfence of his Majefty, for Abbenooe kept the natives in very good order, encouraged them to bring us whatever the ifland afforded and after the people from Atoui rïad difpofed of their commodities, he fent them back for a frefh fupply. Being defirous to make Ta'aao fome further acknowledgment for his fupplying us with the various refrefhments Atoui afforded, though at fuch a confiderable dif— tancd, I fent him as a prefent a light-horfeman's cap;- this however Abbenooe fcarcely thought fufficient, and ftrongly importuned me to fend along- with it an armed chair, which I had in the cabin, as it would be, he faid, peculiarly ufeful to one of the king's wives who had lately lain in. I willingly complied with my friend's requeft, and he difpatched the chair and cap to Atoui, under the care of fpecial meffengers. Our bufinefs now went regularly and brifkly forward ; the trading party were well employed in bartering for yams and other rerrefhments,. and' others were bufied in killing and faking hogs for fea.flore.- Obferving the natives to break the yams in bringing them, off, which prevents them from keeping for any length of time,- I fent my fécond mate on fhore on. the nth in the yaul to Sunday u. purchafe fome ; by which means we procured a large quantity of very fine ones. Since our arrival here, fuch of the feamen whofe recovery from, ficknefs was fcarcely confirmed were daily fent on fhore, and found vaft benefit from- exercife and. land air,. Indeed, the inhabitants at this S7 lift %% A VOYAGE T O T H E A p- this ifland are not numerous, and they were kept in fuch -j excellent order by Abbenooe, that our people walked e. about wherever inclination led them, without the leaft mo- 11 ' leftation. Besides hogs and vegetables, we purchafed fome fait fifh of various kinds, fuch as fhappers, rock-cod, and bonetta, all well cured and very fine. The natives likewife brought us water in calabafhes, fufficient for daily ufe, and to replace what had been expended fince we left Woahoo. Cu- riofities too found their way to market, and I purchafed two very curious fly flaps, the upper part compofed of beautiful variegated feathers; the handles were human bone, inlaid with tortoifefhell in the neateft manner, which gave them the appearance of fineered work. yi2t By the 12th we had purchafed near thirty hogs, weighing on an average fixty pounds each ; the principal part of which were brought from Atoui : thefe were faked for fea flore, as we daily got a fupply of a fmaller fort for prefent confumption. The method of curing pork in tropical climates was firft brought to perfection by captain Cook ; yet his plan feems not to be generally known ; on which account I fhall here take notice of the mode I adopted, as I found it anfwer my moft fanguine expectations. Three different parties were employed in this bufinefs; and the beft times for killing we found to be about three o'clock in the afternoon, and again in the cool of the evening. An awning was fixed over thofe employed in killing and NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. and faking, to prevent the fun from damaging the meat. After one party had cleaned the hogs well, they were handed to another fet, who took the bones entirely out, cut away all the bruifed parts and blood-veffels, and cut the meat into four or fix pound pieces ; at the fame time making incifions in various parts of the fkin, fo as to admit the fait freely. Thefe pieces were then given to the falters, who rubbed them thoroughly with good white fait, and afterwards flowed them on fome hatches, that were fixed as a kind of temporary ftage, about two feet from deck. 89 chap. V. 1786. June. Monday iz. i!a«m A sufficient quantity of meat being placed on this ftage, it was covered with canvafs and boards, on which heavy weights were placed. In this ftate it remained till morning, by which time all the blood was preffed out, and the meat was hard and firm. Every piece was then carefully examined, and if any parts - appeared the leaft tainted, they were cut away, and frefh fait rubbed on. The pork was then packed in cafks filled up with ftrong pickle, and preffed with weights as before. After remaining in cafks twenty-four hours, it was repacked, filled up with frefh pickle, and put away for future ufe. Some pork that we faked at Owhyhee was examined after it had been packed a week, and found perfectly fweet, and the fineft I ever faw. The bones were broke, rubbed well with fait, and afterwards put into ftrong pickle ; and the flefh being cut from the heads, it was dry-faked, and kept exceedingly well. I also faked feveral whole fides after the bones were taken out, without pickle, and they made very fine bacon. 'M N Since .1786. June. Monday 12. A VOYAGE TO T H E Since our arrival at the Sandwich Iflands, we had faked on board the King George feven tierces and two hogfheads of pork, befides two tierces of bones, and had not twenty pounds of meat fpoiled amongft the whole, quantity. In addition to the above, I fhall juft obferve,. that after the hogs are killed, they cannot be too expedi- tioufly cleaned and faked ; for on that the fafety of the meat principally depends, though I believe in moft countries where much pork is- cured, they ufually leave it ta cool before the fait is laid on. This method, however, is. certainly a bad one ; for I have known a houfe in Virginia, by following it, to, lofe near 600 hogs at one time; whereas, had they begun faking while the meat was warm* and the blood running, I have every reafon to think that the greateft part, if not all of it, would have been preferved.. By this time we had procured near ten tons of fine yams, and captain Dixon had got about eight tons on board the Queen Charlotte. The health of both fhips- crews was well re-eftablifhed, and every neceffary bufinelk being completed, no time was loft in getting the fhips; ready for fea, as the feafon for commencing our operations où the American coaft was already begun. Tuefdayi3, At five o'clock in the morning of the 13th we un~ moored, and at eight o'clock we weighed and got under fail, ftanding out of the bay (which obtained the name of Yam Bay, from the great quantity of yams we procured in it), with a frefh breeze at North Eaft. As our vifit to the Sandwich Iflands was a very transient one, I had little opportunity of obtaining any information refpecting the manners and cuftoms of the natives :■. sas NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. natives; fo that the reader may collect what little intelligence I can give him on that head from the foregoing detail of our tranfactions. Hogs, fweet potatoes, taro, fugar-cane, and yams, may, as has already been fnewn, be procured in any quantity; and water is fo eafily obtained at Woahoo, that in little more than one day we got upwards of thirty tons on board. But amongft the refrefhments thefe iflands abound with, the fweet root, or tee, which we met with in great abundance at Woahoo, muft by no means pafs unnoticed, as it makes very good beer, which, after two or three trials, I brought to perfection. The great urMity of this root was not known to us during the laft voyage; fo that the method I made ufe of in brewing it may not improperly be mentioned in this place. The root was peeled very clean, cut into fmall pieces, and put into a clean kettle, and fix of the large roots were found a fufficient quantity for twelve gallons of water. This was put on the fire at three o'olock in the afternoon, and after boiling an hour and a half, was put away to cool. By the time the liquor was lukewarm, a gill of prepared yeaft was added, and afterwards it was put into a cafk. It generally begun to work about midnight, and by nine o'clock the next morning it was excellent drinking. I found it neceffary to make ufe of yeaft only once; the grounds fermented the liquor afterwards; and I am inclined to think, that when yeaft cannot be procured, a little leaven would anfwer as a fubftitute. c H 91 A P. 1786. June. Tuefday 13, 'MM N 2 This lt:W* il il i i 1786. June, Tuefday 13» A VOYAGE TO THE This béer was conftantly drank by fuchof our failors as were affeâed with the feurvy, and they found great benefit from it; fo that in addition to its being very ufeful as common drink, I may fafely call it a moft excellent an- tifcorbutic. Having fucceeded fo well in brewing the fweet root, I tried fugar-cane by the fame method, and made a*good wholefome drink from it, though much inferior to the other. in We ftood to the North North Weft,, along the Weft fide of Oneehow, which forms feveral fine fandy bays, that feem to afford good fhelter and anchorage. At ten o'clock my worthy old friend Abbenooe took Jiis leave of me, and all the canoes left us ; on which occafion we hoifted our colours, and fired ten guns, by way of taking leave of this little friendly ifland. At noon Yam Bay bore South Eaft eight or ten miles, and the Weft point of Oneehow, South by Eaft, fix leagues diftant. Thurfday 15. tn the forenoon of the 15th we faw great numbers of the tropic and man-of-war birds, together with terns and boobies ; fo that I conjectured we then were failing at no confiderable diftance from fome uninhabited ifland. Our latitude at noon was 240 14/ North, and 1600 24/ longitude. For fome days the weather was clofe and fultry, at- Tuefday 20. tended with frequent heavy rains ; but on the 20th the weather became clear and pleafant, with a fine Eafterly breeze. This gave us an opportunity of examining our yams, and it was very fortunate that we did fo ; for mnmimnwn {mhU IB NORTH 1VEST COAST OF AMERICA. for they began to detay, occafioned by heat ; and in a few days would certainly have been fpoiled. In the forenoon of the 2 2d we faw a great number of petrels, about the fize of a pigeon, and of a footy colour; and paffed two large pieces of a fubftance which appeared to be a part of the cuttle-fifh : they were very much torn, probably by whales, who feed on the cuttle-fifh. Our latitude at that time was 320 4' North, and 1600 8' longitude* 93 CHAP. y. C . .J 1786, June. Thurfday 22. The wind now gradually fhifted to the Southward, and Friday z3« afterwards hauled to Weft and North Weft, with rain and a heavy crofs fwell, which indicated that the trade-wind had left us. On the 27th, being in 38° 14' North latitude, and Tuefday27, 15 50 56' longitude, we found 150 30'Eafterly variation. In the year 1778, when nearly in the fame latitude, and about three degrees to the Eaftward of the above longitude, the variation was found to be 160 30' Eafterly ; a difference of one degree, which is very confiderable. In the forenoon of the 28 th I went on board the Queen Char- wednef.28, lotte, in order to appoint a rendezvous for the fhips in cafe of feparation, as the weather now was eonflantly thick and nazy. We fixed on a fituation in Cook's River, near Cape Bede ; which cape forms the South fide of a deep inlet, and Anchor Point the North fide. This fituation was a very eligible one, not only as there was a great probability of finding a good harbour, but whichfoever veffel arrived there firft, would be able to make fignals to the other 94 CHAP. V. "T786. June. Wedne-f. 28. A VOYAGE TO THE other on her entering the river. Having fettled this point, I returned on board my own fhip. In the afternoon the water altered its colour, and had the appearance of foundings ; on which we founded witfi. a line of 120 fathoms, but got no bottom. Thurfday29. ' Next morning a number of feals were feen playing round the fhip, but our diftance from the coaft of America was fo confiderable, that I cannot think thofe animals came from thence, or from any known iflands near the coaft. On the contrary, there is great reafon to fuppofe that we were near fome land which has not as yet been difcovered ; for during our laft voyage, in 1778, * when in 410 50' North latitude, and 1420 30' Weft longitude, we paffed a piece of wood which appeared to have been but a fhort time in the Water, and drifted from the Weftward ; and in the fame year, when in 400 15' North latitude, and 1570 55' Weft longitude, we faw a fhagg, which bird is never known to fly far from land ; and as our prefent fituation was nearly in the midway between thofe juft mentioned, I had great reafon to exped we fhould fall in with fome. The weather for feveral days was conftantly thick and hazy, attended with'drizzling rain ; fo that had we paffed within five miles of any land, it would have been impof- fible for us to have feen it ; and the advanced feafon of the year not permitting me to wafle anytime in fearching for undifcovered iflands, I kept on my courfe to the North. Towards C H A V. Monday 3. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Towards noon on the $ê July the weather cleared up, and our obfervation gave 440 4' North latitude, and 551*12' longitude. Since the 29th we had daily feen feals, whales, and porpoifes, together with a great number of petrels, and various other birds ; we frequently founded with a line of 150 fathoms, but found no bottom, neither was there any appearance of land. I ft ruck one of the feals that were playing about the fhip,. and got it on board ; at firft fight I imagined it to be a fea-otter ; its fur was very clofe and fine. uï For fome time paft the wind had kept to the Northward and Weftward, which greatly retarded our progrefs ; but on the 7th, in 460 ii' Nortfi latitude, and 1470 8' FridayT.. longitude, it fhifted to the Southward, which enabled us to fhape a courfe North Weft by North, for the entrance of Cook's River. We kept Handing for that place, without meeting with any paiticular occurrence. The weather in general was cloudy, with alternate fogs and heavy rain. Vafl numbers of different kinds of birds, fuch as divers, gulls, petrels, and albetroffes, were conflantly about the fhip, and we frequently paffed pieces of wood and patches of fea-weed, called by the failors fea-leek^ The weather on the 14th being tolerably fine, I took Friday^. the opportunity of cleaning the fhip well, fore and aft; and afterwards every part was aired with good fires ; a mofl neceffary precaution, after the foggy, wet weather we fi> recently had experienced,. M 95 p. T^YiS M m amm I M \m A VOYAGE TO THE In the morning of the 15 th the water altered its colour, and at ten o'clock, judging we were in foundings, and willing to Hrike the edge of them, as a future direction in coming on the coafl, we tried foundings, but had no ground with 190 fathoms of line. Our latitude then was 570 2 North, and 1480 32' longitude. In this fituation we found 220 21' Eaflerly variation. The weather being thick and foggy, we .frequently tried for foundings, but got no bottom ; at length, about eight o'clock in the morning of the 16th, we Hruck the ground in feventy fathoms water, over a- bottom of fine grey fand with black fpecks ; and at feven o'clock in the evening the fog difperfing, we faw the coafl of America extending from North by Eaft to Weft by North, diftant from the neareft land, and which appeared to be a projecting point, about twelve leagues. In this fituation we had fifty-feven fathom water, over a bottom of fhells and mud. At eight o'clock the land in fight, from North to South South Weft, appeared to be entirely'detached from the land in fight to the Weftward ; this induced me to fuppofe, that the land bearing South South Weft was Cape Saint Hermogenes, and another point, which bore Weft by North was Cape Elizabeth. A very great number of Gallicia whales were feen near the fhore, and indeed in every direction as far as the eye could reach. During the night we founded with a line of fifty-five Monday 17. fathoms, but got no bottom. The next day at noon the 4 land m m NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 97 land in fight, bore from Weft by North to North, twelve c H A p- or thirteen leagues diftant. The latitude then was 5 8° 23' v—-J—?■ North, and 1490 43' longitude. We continued during )l*y! the afternoon to ftand in for the fhore, but the wind grew Monda^ ^ light and variable ; fo that we gained ground very flowly. At noon on the 18th our latitude by obfervation was Tuefdayis. 5 8° 29' North. Cape Elizabeth then bore North Weft by Weft, diftant fifteen leagues ; the barren Ifles Weft North Weft, about the fame diftance ; and Cape Saint Hermo- genes South Weft, diftant twelve leagues. With a moderate breeze at Weft North Weft, we ftood towards Cape Saint Hermogenes ; but by fix o'clock the wind entirely failed us, and it grew calm. Cape Saint Hermogenes then bore South Weft, fix leagues diftant. In that fituation we had foundings in forty fathoms water, over a bottom of gravel and dark fand. At nine o'clock a light breeze fpringing up at South Eaft, I changed our courfe from Weft North Weft to North Weft by Weft ; being apprehenfive, fhould it again fall calm, that the tide might draw us in between the Ifle Saint Hermogenes and the land to the Weftward ; a fituation I wifhed to avoid, particularly in the night and with light winds,. During the night our foundings varied greatly; when the Ifle Saint Hermogenes bore South South Weft, fix leagues diftant, we had forty-five fathoms water ; after the ifland was brought to bear more to the Southward, we had from fixty-five to feventy fathoms water, over a bottom of dark grey muddy fand. At two o'clock in the morning of the 19th I again Wednef. m fleered Weft North Weft, with a moderate breeze from O M South li mi ill CHAP. V. 1786. July. Wednef. 19. A VOYAGE TO THE South Eaft by Eaft : foon afterwards the South point of" the Ifle Saint Hermogenes bore South by Weft, fix leagues diftant. The morning proved fo very foggy, that we loft fight of land ; however, towards eleven o'clock, the fog; difperfing, v,e faw the Barren Iflands, bearing North North Weft, about three leagues diftant ; on this I fleered North Weft by North, in order to run to the Weftward of them ; intending, if poffible, to make the inlet, already mentioned, near Cape Bede;, as we had thick, rainy weather, with figns of an approaching gale. Whilft ftanding on in this direction, the lead was kept going; but we got no bottom with thirty fathoms of line- At one o'clock the Wefternmoft part of the Barren Ifles bore Eaft North Eaft, three miles diftant i on this I ftood over for Cape Bede, fleering North by Eaft, under double-reefed topfails, with a ftrong breeze from the Eaft South Eaft,. and thick foggy weather. At four o'clock we faw the land- near Cape Bede, bearing North North Eaft, about three leagues diftant. In running from the Barren Ifles we paffed feveral ftrong ripplings of a tide ; and on ftanding well in with Point Bede, the wind fhifted to North Eaft and Eafl North Eafl, blowing in Hidden puffs from the land, with rain and dark gloomy weather. I hauled in as near the fhore as the wind would permit ; and when we had brought Cape Bede to bear'South 340 Eafl, four miles diflant, an appearance of a harbour prefented itfelf, with a fmall ifland fituated directly in the entrance, and bearing from South 870 Eafl, to South 8i° Eafl, diflant three miles. We Hood for this opening, but made little progrefs, the wind growing light, and the little we had being directly againfl us. Jufl at this time 11 we NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, 99 :we were greatly furprifed to hear the report of a great gun from the fhore ; it was now very thick over the land, which prevented us from feeing the fmoke of the gun ; however, we fired a gun and hoifled our colours, and pre- Wednef*l9> fently afterwards fired another, expecting it would be anfwered. Immediately after our firing the fécond gun -another was fired from the fhore, in the direction of Eafl, three quarters South. It was now very evident, that fome nation or other had got to this place before us, which mortified me not a little. Soon after this we perceived a boat rowing out towards the fhips ; on which, we tacked and flood in fhore, in order to meet her : by feven o'clock the boat came on board, and I found the people to be Ruffians. As we had no perfon who underflood the Ruflian language, the information we got from this party was but little. If I underflood them right, they came laft from Kodiac, an ifland near the Schumagins, on a trading expedition ; that they left their veflei at Kodiac, and proceeded to Cook's River in boats. The harbour which I intended to make, they gave me to underftand, was a very good one ; and they offered to take a perfon from the fhip in their boat to examine it. I accepted their offer, and fent Mr. M'Leod along with them to examine the harbour and found the entrance, there being fome rocks near it. The Ruffians left us at half paft eight o'clock, and immediately afterwards we came to anchor in thirty-five fathoms water, over a bottom of coarfe fand and fhells ; Point Bede bearing South 31° Eaft, diftant two leagues, and a fmall rocky ifland detached from it, in the fame direction. At the time we anchored it was high water; and on the ebb making, I found it to fet from the North O 2 by TOi*nl m If m ufj 1 ira IOO A VOYAGE TO THE m m j it'll : In!! I ': c HVA p- by compafs, and run at the rate of two knots per hour, « J—i and fall fourteen feet perpendicular. The flood fet di- juiy.' rectly from the South, and run nearly at the fame rate as Thurfdayzo, the ebb. At four o'clock in the morning of the 20th the Ruffian boat returned with Mr. M'Leod, who informed me that the harbour was a very good one, and that there was a fafe paffage into it on either fide the fmall ifland at the entrance* After examining the harbour, Mr. M'Leod landed on a beach juft without the South entrance of it, where the Ruffians had taken up their abode. It fhould feem that they only continue here during the fummer feafon, as they had nothing more than tents covered with canvas or fkins to live in. He obferved but few fea-otter fkins amongft them, and they were moflly green, and appeared as if recently taken from the animal. The Ruffian party con- fifted of twenty-five men ; they had alfo a number of Indians along with them, who had fkin canoes, and feemed to be on the moft friendly terms with the Ruffians, which inclined me to think they were not natives of this place, but brought here from Kodiac or Oonalafka, for the purpofe of hunting ; efpecially as Mr. M'Leod could not perceive any Indian habitations near the Ruffian fettlement. The Ruflian chief brought me as a prefênt a quantity of fine falmon, fufficient to ferve both fhips for one day ; in return for which I gave him fome yams, and directed him how to drefs them ; and likewife fome beef, pork, and a few bottles of brandy. He made his acknowledgments in the beft manner he was able, and returned on fhore, perfectly pleafed with his reception. These 15 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. These people, quite contrary to the Ruffian cuftom, were particularly careful not to get intoxicated ; but 1 have reafon to think, that this caution proceeded rather from a fear of being furprifed by the neighbouring Americans in a ftate of intoxication, than from any diflike they have to liquor ; for Mr. M'Leod informed me that they were conftantly on their guard, with their arms always ready, and that no man flept without a rifle-barrelled piece under his arm, and his cutlafs and a long knife by his fide. We now began to be in want of wood, and the crews ftood in need of fome exercife on fhore, therefore I determined to get into the adjacent harbour, and more particularly as there was not the leaft appearance of any inhabitants near it; fo that our bufinefs could be carried on without danger or moleftation. An additional reafon for making this harbour was, that during the time our various bufinefs was going forward, I might probably learn from the Ruffians how long they had been at this place, and what time they intended to ftay; alfo the place where their Hoops lay, as they had none in Cook's River; I likewife particularly wifhed to know whether they procured their furs, by bartering with the natives, or killing the animais themfelves. IOI CHAP. v. 1786. July. Thurfday 20, % At three o'clock in the afternoon a light breeze fpring- ing up from the North North Weft, we weighed anchor, and ftood in for the North entrance of the opening. After we were got fome diftance into the harbour, the wind failed us, and we were obliged to drop an anchor under foot, as there was a ftrong current fetting directly out, although 1 ■H : I'll It! k\ 111» 111 i n i il m tO2 A VOYAGE TO THE H A V. although it was flood-tide. This I could no way account for, but by fuppofing that we were in the entrance of a juty.' ftreight, leading out directly to fea. - Tliurfdayzo. A light breeze coming on foon afterwards, enabled us to work well into the harbour ; and at half pafl feven o'clock we anchored in eleverffathoms water, over a bottom of black muddy fand, and moored with the beft bower to the fea, and the ftream cable bent to a fpare anchor towards the fhore. When moored, the inner point of the bay bore Eaft South Eafl, diflant about three cables length, and the point forming the North entrance into the harbour, Wefl North Weft, half a mile diftant ; Volcano Mount, in Cook's River, Wefl North Wefl, half North, and Mount St. Augufline., South Wefl by South. J?riday.2i. Early in the morning of the 2ifl, I went on fhore ia fearch of a convenient place for wooding and watering the fhips. I ianded on a fine fmooth beach at the head of the bay, and about a mile diflant from the fhip ; near which I found a run of good frefh water. An opening, which from the fhip had the appearance of a creek, was found to be a narrow entrance leading to a fait water lake. Here was wood of different kinds in great abundance, fuch as .pine, black birch, witch hazle, and poplar. Many of the pines were large enough for lower mafls for a fhip of 400 :tons burden ; and in every place were plants and fhrubs of ^various forts growing with great flrength and vigour. However, this not being a very convenient fituation for getting iwood to he boats, I proceeded up the harbour to look for a place better adapted for our purpoië. I found ~i II IW.« ILL!" .PL-AJS' op 'GMxlILUIS liLiltJ Wm Situated ~ m ///<• Northward <->/'Poi Variation. 23.JC. . a.n. l.oiicboats 'lVact//w// IYitu-L'-\\'il!iaJii Sont b.b. d:\ j): Dr ce.The Skips Track. i'/t/o tin- ilaihour . m m • : - ' ■■■<7; NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ï found it a moft excellent one indeed, with great plenty of wood every where, and feveral fine runs of water. For a confiderable diftance it runs up nearly Eaft South Eaft, and then bends rather to the Southward, with fourteen fathoms water, over a bottom of muddy fand. The Eaft fide affording plenty of black birch, and other kinds of wood, which grew clofe to a beach where the boats could have eafy accefs, I fixed on it for a wooding place, and returning immediately on board, I fent the carpenters tQ get fome fpars» and another party to cut firewood. 103 CHAP. V. 1786. . J«iy. Friday 21. None of the natives as yet had made their appearance ;- but as the Ruffians were conftantly on their guard for fear of being furprifed by the Americans, I judged it prudent that we fhould be fo likewife; and accordingly fent a cheft with arms along with the parties on fhore. By noon we got feveral boat loads of wood onboard. In the afternoon the feine was hauled at the head-of the bay where we lay, but with little fuccefs, only a few cole- fifh being caught, Whilfl we were engaged in this bufinefs, the Ruffian chief paid me a vifit,. and informed me, that the place where we hauled the feine was not flocked wàth fifh, but that near his refidence plenty might be caught. I accordingly took the feine thither, and in feveral hauls caught about thirty falmon, and a few flat fifh. This indifferent fuccefs was owing, as my friend the Ruffian told me, to the time of tide, it being then low water, when, for hauling the feine, it fhould be nearly high water. However, he affured me, if I would leave the feine all night, and a man along with it, I fhould ha iûi,M if Trlr ve I Iii! 104 C H A V. 1786. . Ju]y- Friday 11 A VOYAGE TO THE p- have plenty of fifh the next morning. I embraced this -> offer with great pleafure, and left one of my failors, who had fome little knowledge of the Ruflian language. The Ruffian fettlement, if I may be allowed to call that one where the refidence is only temporary, was fitu- ated on a pleafant piece of flat land, about three miles in length, and 200 yards over, bounded by a good fandy beach on one fide, and a fmall lake of frefh water, which empties itfelf into the fea, on the other. In this lake they catch plenty of fine falmon. The beach terminates at each end in high points of land, which form a fnug bay, where fmall craft might lie with great fàfety. The Ruffians were twenty-five in number, exclufive of the Indians, which I now found were brought from Kodiac and Oonalafka. They had two fkin boats, each calculated to row twelve oars, and the thwarts were double banked. I underflood that the chief and the Indians took up their abode in a fmall tent covered with canvas, and the remainder flept under the two boats juft mentioned. They have no tread; their diet feems toconfift principally of fifh, and a mefs is made of the root of a plant, called by Steller the Serena, which would tafte very well, were it not rendered unpalatable, by being mixed with animal oil: they had alfo feme very good tea. Amongst the party were three Indian women ; one of whom I was informed came from Oonalafka, the others from Kodiac. I COULD It: NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. "tf 1786. . J"iy- Friday zi, I could perceive that they procured no furs by bar- c HVA p* tering with the Americans, and that they got no fea otter fkins, nor indeed furs of any kind, but what the Kodiac Indians caught in hunting. During my flay amongft the Ruffians, they were all very bufily employed. Some were dreffing green fea otter fkins, others repairing their boats, and cleaning arms. Moft of the Indians were out on a hunting party; the few left behind were bufied in fitting darts to their fpears, and making fnuff from tobacco, of which they feem very fond, and their women in cooking and repairing canoes. It was very evident that this little party were under great apprehenfions from the Americans. Indeed, the chief gave me to underftand, that they had attempted to furprife them feveral times, which made it abfolutely neceffary for them to be conftantly on their guard. He told me, that they were a fet of favage, cruel people, but fpoke much in favour of the Oonalafka and Kodiac Indians. Having procured all the intelligence I could from the Ruffian chief, I returned towards evening on board my own veffel. During the night the weather was very unfettled, and the wind variable ; blowing at times in heavy fqualls from the land, with calms by turns. At feven o'clock next morning: I fent the whale-boat Saturday 22 to the Ruffian fettlement, to learn what fuccefs they had had with the feine. The boat returned at nine o'clock, P ^deeply m m lUfll io6 CHAP. V. 1786. July- Saturday 22. A VOYAGE TO THE deeply loaded with fine falmon ; part of which I fent on board the Queen. Qfiarlotte ; and now having a plentiful fupply of good fifh, the people were no longer upon fait provifions, but in lieu of it had fifti and yams ferved to them. Part of the fhip's crew were fent to cut firewood, and others had liberty given them to recreate themfelves on fhore * ; Towards noon the Ruffian chief returned my vifit. The fervice he had rendered us in pointing out a fiijÉafiion where we at any time could catch plenty of fifh, demanded fome addition to my former prefent, arid I gave him feveral articles, which in my opinion would be jj ferviceable ;. fuch as fait, vinegar, port wine, and brandy ; and obferv- ing when I was at his refidence that they had boiled fome of the yams I had given them, which feemed to pleafe them very much, I added to my prefent about four hundred weight more. Though my new acquaintance and myfelif underflood each other but very imperfectly, yet he feemed very much pleafed with this mutual exchange of friendly offices, and after flaying on board a fhort time, he took his leave, and returned on fhore. HS Soon afterwards I went in the whale-boat, accompanied by captain Dixon, to take a furvey of the harbour. On our firft fetting out, we expected to find a lirait leading out to fea, but we prefently found ourfelves miftaken. The harbour, from the fmall ifland at the entrance, and which obtained the name of Paffage Ifland, runs up about nine miles, nearly in an Eaft South Eaft direction, and afterwards NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 107 wards terminates in a frefh water river that branches out in c HVA p* V • feveral directions. There are feveral projecting points on each fide the harbour that form very fnug and good bays, with excellent beaches, where a fhip might, if neceffary, be hauled on fhore with the greateft fafety; the depth of water clofe to the beach feven and eight fathoms. In our way we called on the wooding party, whom we found bufily employed. My carpenter informed me, that he had feen a tree with two holes through it, which appeared to have been made by fwivel fhot; if fo, they probably were fired, from a Ruffian floop when hereabouts at the American Indians, who I am certain have recently inhabited this neighbourhood, and fled at the approach of the Ruffians ; for we faw a number of huts fcattered here and there, fome of them very large, and feveral appeared to have been but lately defer ted. After determining the extent of the harbour, we landed, and walked up to the frefh water river; being at that time low water, the river Was very narrow ; it abounded with falmon, and on the banks we could perceive the tracks of bears and the moofe deer. The flood-tide making foon afterwards, we embarked, and rowed into one of the branches, intending: to proceed as far up it as poffible; but on getting into the mouth of the largeft branch, our attention was taken up by a large brown bear coming down to the river. I was in hopes that we fhould have come within mufquet-fhot of him, but he got fight of us, and made off into the woods with much greater fpeed than I imagined a bear could run, and was prefently out of fight. 1786. July. Saturday 22 » m In the courfe of an hour we faw more than twenty bears, but they were all fo fby, that we could not fhoot P 2 one. I III : il li ni i 1786. Juiy. Tùefday 25. Wednef. z6. A VOYAGE TO THE one. Night now coming on, we left the fhore, and got on board about ten o'clock. By the 25th we had completed our wood and water,, and the fhips were ready for fea; fo that I waited with impatience for an opportunity of proceeding up the river, as there was a probability of meeting with inhabitants, and confequently we ftood ajehance of procuring furs. At prefent, however, the wind was light and variable, frequently inclining to calm, and the weather thick and foggy. In\ the afternoon I went along with captain Dixon to look into a bay fituated to the Eaftward of the North point of the harbour. We found it a pretty good one, carrying foundings in fourteen, twelve, and eight fathom water, over a bottom of fine black fand. We landed on the Weft fide of the bay, and in walking round it difcovered two veins of kennfl coal, fituated near fome hills juft above the beach, about the middle of the bay; and with very little trouble feveral pieces were got out of the bank, nearly as large as a man's head. From this bay we rowed acrofs for the entrance leading into the harbour to the Southward of Paffage Ifle, and found plenty of water ; but the paffage much narrower than the Northern one. The beft time to run into this harbour is as near low water as poffible. Whatever danger there is may then be feen either from the beds of kelp, or the rocks fhewing them- felves.- above- water. In the evening we returned on board,, and I tried fome of the coal we had difcovered, and found it to burn clear and well. At fix o'clock in the morning; of the 26th, the wea- ther, which for fome time had been very thick, cleared a little. v\ m w m- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 109 CHAP. V. 1786. Juiy- little, and we began to unmoor. At eight o'clock we weighed and came to fail, with a light variable breeze. At nine o'clock the wind came to the Northward and Weftward; and the. Queen Charlotte being to the Northward Wednef- z6, of us, was enabled to lie out, but I could not accomplifh it. The flood-tide making in, and finding we fet very faft towards Paffage Ifle, we brought up, and being exceedingly anxious to get into the main river, began warping againft the tide. The Queen Charlotte^got clear out, and I made her a fignal to anchor, which fhe obeyed. About eleven o'clock it began to blow very frefh from the North North Weft, with confiant rain, and we were obliged again to bring up. At noon the weather grew moderate, and we endeavoured by every means to get out to feay but found it a difficult matter to accomplifh, owing to the uncertainty of the tide, and the wind continually fhifting. However, at eight o'clock, having worked out as far as the outer rocks, a breeze fprung up from1 the Southward,, with which we made all fail, and got out, though we paffed very near a ledge of rocks to the Northward : when a-breaft of that ledge, we were driven paft it in a hurry by the flood-tide, which took us and carried us very faft to the Northward. Soon afterwards the breeze failed us, and I was afraid of coming too near fome funken rocks, fituated to the Northward and Eaftward of the North ledge; therefore run a warp out to check the fhip. The breeze coming on again in a fhort time, we flipped the warp, and run further off, and at ten o'clock brought-to for the yaul, which I had fent to weigh the kedge. At eleven o'clock the boat came on board, and about the fame- time we joined the Queen Charlotte, and found fhe was nearly under way. During the night, we had light airs, and m no A VOYAGE TO THE 1786. Wednef. 26. c HVA p* and the tide carried us very faft to the North Eaft into a deep opening, which is formed by Anchor Point, and the land to the North Eaft of Point Bede. Our depth of wa-x ter was too much for anchoring, being upwards of fixty fathoms; fo that we were under the neceffity of waiting Thurfday27. for a breeze to pufh out again. At five o'clock in the . morning a light breeze came on from the Eaftward, with which we ftood North North Weft, for Anchor Point, having got out of the opening with the ebb tide. " The lead was kept conftantly going, and we had foundings from forty-eight to thirty fathoms water, over a bottom of fine grey fand. At noon Point Bede bore South by Eaft half Eaft, and Anchor Point North 210 Weft, diftant from the neareft land about five leagues, The latitude, by obfervation, was 590 34' North. We ftretched up the river, with light breezes from the Southward and Eaftward, till half paft five o'clock, when the flood-tide being fpent, we came-to wkh the ftream- anchor in twenty fathoms water, over a rocky bottom : Anchor Point bearing North 33" Eafl, five miles diftant; the Volcano Mount North 86° Wefl; the North land in fight on the Weftern fhore, North 2 M Wefl ; and an ap- I pearance of an opening on the Wefl fide, North 630 Weft. A large column of fmoke iffued from the fummit of Mount Volcano, but no fiery eruption was to be feen; neither could we perceive any fires, or other figns of the coaft being inhabited on either fide the river, which was rather remarkable, as the adjacent country feemed pleafant, and NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. and well fheltered from the inclemency of the weather. This inclined me to think that the Ruffians we found in Coal Harbour had been up the river and quarrelled with the natives ; and I began to fear that our fuccefs in the river would be very fmall ; however, I determined to Hand on, and leave notning unattempted towards attaining the principal object of our voyage. At ten o'clock we weighed and Hood up the river with the flood ajnd a light breeze from the Southward. The ebb making ftrong.at eight o'clock in the morning, we could not Hem it with a light breeze ; therefore anchored in twenty-four fathoms, over a rocky bottom ; Anchor Point bearing South, 300 Eaft, diftant five leagues ; the Volcano Mount South Weft half Weft ; the extremes of an ifland on the Weft fhore, from North, 62* "Weft, to North, 480 Weft, diflant about five leagues. At the time we anchored, the tide run four miles an hour ; the ebb fetting from the North by Eaft,, and the flood from the South by Weft, and about half- tide it run nearly five miles an hour. Our latitude was 6o° of North, and we found 2 30 15' Eafterly variation. The land on the Weftern fide near the fhore appearing very pleafant, and likely to be inhabited, I determined to ftand over and look for anchorage. At four o'clock a point of land which contracts the river to the Weftward bore North 540 Weft, five miles diftant. We now had foundings from 20 to 25 fathoms of water over a rocky bottom; but after hauling round the point, we fhoaled it, and at fix o'clock, having thirteen fathoms water over a fhingly bottom, we came-to with the beft bower ; the Northern- moft land in fight on the Weft fhore, bearing North 2o°Eaft, and the diftance from the neareft land about five, miles. nt H A V. 1786. July. Thurfday 27. lid ay 2.8. fl 9 it m A VOYAGE TO THE CHAP. VI. Ill C H A VI. 1786. July. Friday 28 Saturday 29. Indians come to the Ships with Furs.'—Shew a thieving Difpofition.—Bring great Quantities of Salmon to barter.—Short Defcription of the Country nearTrading Bay, —Climate.—Produce.—The Ships leave Trading Bayy and proceed down the River.—Requefted by the Indians to join with them againft the Ruffians.—Prefents given at parting.—Leave Cook's River, and proceed towards Prince William s Sound.^-Prevented from making it by contrary Winds.—Proceed along the Coaft,—Difappointed in meeting with Crofs Sound. COON after we anchored, two fmall canoes came off |I from the fhore, nearly a-breafl of the fhip, and went along-fide the Queen Charlotte. I afterwards learnt that they had nothing to barter, except a few dried falmon, which captain Dixon purchafed for beads ; and alfo made them a few prefents, in order to convince them that our intentions were friendly, and that we wiflied to trade with them in a peaceable manner. They feemed to comprehend captain Dixon's meaning, and promifed to bring furs the following day. About feven o'clock the next morning we had the pleafure of feeing two large canoes and feveral fmall ones pufhing off from the fhore. The large canoes contained about twenty people each ; the fmall ones held but one, or at moft two perfons. When at fome diftance from us they joined in a fong, which was continued for a HH confider-- LUI Jl NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. m confiderable length of time ; and afterwards came along- c ** A p- fide, extending their arms as a token of their pacific in- j—-—»■ tentions, and many of them held up green plants, pro- juiy." b-ably for the fame motive. Moft of thefe Indians had Saturda'29- their faces daubed entirely over with red oker and black lead, which gave them a very difgufting appearance ; their nofes and ears were in general ornamented with fmall blue beads or teeth, and they had a flit cut in the under lip, in a line parallel with the mouth, which was adorned in a fimilar manner. We procured from this party near twenty fea-otter fkins, and a few cloaks made of the earlefs marmot fkins fewed together very neatly. They traded in a fair open manner, and were very importunate with us to go on fhore. I intreated one of them, who appeared to be a chief, to come on board, which he declined at firft, un- lefs I fent one of the failors into his canoe as an hoftage ; but whilfl I was fpeaking with him, one of his companions ventured on board, and prefently afterwards the chief and feveral others followed his example ; however, to convince them that they were perfectly fafe, I fent one of my people into their boat, agreeably to the chief's requeft. After flaying on board fome time, and gratifying their curiofity with looking at the veffel, they left us.and paddled on fhore, feemingly well fatisfied with their reception. From this favourable beginning, I was inclined to think we could not change our fituation for a better, therefore determined to keep it a few days ; accordingly we lighted the beft bower, and moored with it to the Southward, and the ftream to the Northward. Our obfervation at noon gave 6o° 49/ latitude. Q_ On Hi 'Mm\ «il lip t'!!! Il I lib ««pi ii4x c 1786. July. Stinuay 30. Auguft. Thurfday 3. A VOYAGE TO THE On the 30th we were vifited by feveraLcanoes, from whom|n we purchafed fome good fea-otter fkins, together with feveral marmot cloaks, racoons, and foxes ; they alfo brought us plenty of excellent frefh falmon, which we obtained for beads and buttons. Our traffic for fome days was much in the fame ftate, and the behaviour of the natives was very quiet and peaceable ; however, according to Indian cuftom, they made no fcruple of thieving, and fome that were on board the Kincr George on the 3d Auguft, gave us a fpecimen of their talents in that line, by Healing the hook from a block-flrap, and a grindftone-handle, which being made of iron, was no doubt reckoned a prize. I did not however think it prudent to ufe violence with them for thefe trifling depredations, and contented myfelf with ordering a good look-out to be kept, to prevent their ftealing any thing in future, An elderly chief went on board the Queen Charlotte, from whom captain Dixon gathered fome information receding the Ruffian^ He clearly underflood from the Old man's poinifiiag to the guns, and defcribing the ex- olofion they m&de, as Weil as from other circumflances, that there had lately beers a battle between the Ruffians and the natives, in- whici-the Ruffians were worfted : the chief at the fame time intimated, that they would not quarrel with us on that account, as he was certain we be- 3&$ged to aftoJÉfér rtsïtiony fr®m the difference in our drefs. How ffeife quarrel originated we could not leam, but- moft probably it was ocœa&sned byttïefc The Indians, 01$ leaving the Mp, gave us to underftand that their neighbourhood was drained «*£ furs^ but that they NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. they Would go to procure more in tne adjacent couriÇry. In the afternoon a ftrong gate of Wind came on, which continued till the forenoon of the 5 th, varying from South South Eaft to South South Weft. A confiderable fea fet into the bay, that caufed the fhips to ride very heavy; imt we found much more fo at flack water than, at any other time. This difference I imagine to be occafioned by our lying in a different tide to what there is in the flream ; fo that during the time of low water a fea roils in ; but as foon as the tide makes in the flream, it -runs along the mouth of the bay, arid breaks off the fea con- fiderably. About ten o'clock in the forenoon, the weather growing rnoderate, one large canoe and feveral fmall ones came along-fide, bringing- us four good fea-otter fkins, a few martins, racoons, and foxes, and plenty of fine falmon. The large canoe had been abfent two days, to trade for furs in various parts' of the river, and the people now gave us to underftand that the adjoining country was entirely drained of fkins, and that they could not procure any more. One of the Indians in the large canoe had a very good Nankin frock, and another a blue frock, which they wanted to fell : feveral of them had a number iof fmall blue glafs beads,. which they feemed. very fond of, but the frocks were held in very little eftimation. Thefe .articles muft doubtlefs have been procured from the Ruffians previous to their quarrel, and foon after they came into the river. I was inclined to believe the information we obtained from our vifiters reflecting the fcarcity' of -furs in this part ; as I had obferved for fome days paft the canoes came from different quarters, and the few fkins they brought were of an inferior quality ; I therefore determined to quit Cook's River the firft opportunity, and Q^ 2 proceed Wm 178?f 1'AVfeu!ft»g Saturday j. uTC m 1 M '«p ïi,6 A VOYAGE TO THE 1111 In mm i, i ifl 11 ■ jiMu 111! Ill 1786. Auguft. Saturday 5 Monday 7. C HviA P' Procee<^ t0 Prince William's Sound, where I expected to procure a good fupply of fine furs. At noon the weather was very unfettled, with every appearance of an approaching gale, which prevented me from weighing. Towards evening a frefh gale came on from the Southward ; and at nine o'clock, when the flood made, it blew very ftrong, which occafioned us to let go the fmall bower, and veer away on both cables, until we brought the fmall bower a-head. The gale continued till noon on the 7th ; during which time no canoes came near us ; but about two o'clock, the weather growing more moderate, two fmall canoes ventured off, from whom we purchafed a fufficient quantity of falmon to ferve the fhip's company one day ; but they brought no furs of any kind whatever. Towards evening two large canoes came off from the Eaftern fhore ; but the weather then being very bad, they paffed on, without calling along-fide, and went on fhore a-breafl of the fhips, where they hauled their canoes, and turned them bottom up, probably to anfwer the purpofe of temporary habitations, as we foon afterwards faw a fire lighted near each of them. Notwith- Handing the heavy gale of wind we recently had experienced, it raifed no fea on the oppofite beach ; on the contrary, the water was fo fmooth, that a fmall boat might be able to land on any part of it with fafety. We Hill had frefh gales to the Southward, with thick- hazy weather; this, however, did not prevent two fmall canoes from venturing along-fide with a few falmon. In the afternoon of the 8th, two of the natives came on' board, and I gave each of them a knife, a gimblet, and 6 fome "uefday 8. mil 'rMâl NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 117 fome beads. They were totally at a lofs what to make of c ^jA P,A the gimblets, till I pointed out their ufe, and taught '———' them to bore a hole through a piece of wood^ which at Auguii. once difcovered their value ; and they admired the gimblets ue ay I far beyond their other prefents. When my vifiters prepared to go on fhore, it came onto blow very hard ; on which I gave them to underftand, that if they would Hay on board till the gale was over, I would haul their canoes upon deck ; to this propofal they readily agreed, but an old furly man in one of the canoes objected to it, and infilled on their leaving the fhip,. which they did, and after a good deal of difficulty got fafe on fhore. At eight o'clock the gale increafed, and at nine it came on to blow fo Hrong at South, that 1 judged it prudent to have the topgallant-mafts got down upon deck, the topmafts ftruck clofe down to the rigging, and the lower yards kept aloft, ready for making fome fail, mould we be forced from our anchors. The water, however, continued more fmooth than could have been expected | and the veffel being made fnug, rode very eafy. At eleven o'clock, when fhe tended to the flood, apprehending that our prefent fcope of cable would be infufficient to ride her ff^ againft both wind and tide, we wore away to one and a. quarter cable on the beft bower. At eight o'clock next morning, the weather appearing Wednef. 9i. more fettled, we began to fway up the topmafts ; but whilft' we were engaged in this bufinefs, it came on to blow very frefh, which determined me to keep all faft, as I did not judge it prudent to quit our fituation. till there was a probability of our clearing the river.. The ill May 111 W f^ H E The heavy and continued gale of wind for fome days.paft had raifed no furf on the beach to the Weflward of us, and I am inclined to think there never is much fea near the fhore with any wind whatever. My reafon for forming this conjecture is, that the natives have fixed wears for catching falmon in feveral places, which, fhould any fea fet in fhore, would certainly be wafhed away by the furf. The land to the Weflward is prettily diverfified with, vailles and gently rifing grounds, which in general are clothed with pines and fhrubs. Many of the vales have fmall rills of water which difcharge themfelves into the. fea, and in one of them were feveral houfes and fome flages on which the natives dry their falmon. Thefe, contrafted with the mountains fituated behind them, which are entirely covered with fnow, compofe a landfcape at once beautiful and pi&urefque. During the late Hormy unfettled weather, the air had 'been mild and temperate, and I am inclined to think that the climate here is not fb fevere as has been generally fup- pofed; for, in the courfe of our traffic with the natives, they frequently brought berries of lèverai forts, and in par-; ticular blackberries, equally fine with thofe met with in England. Bs-stoss the various forts of furs met with here, and which have already been enumerated, Cook's River produces native fulphur, ginfeng, fnake root, black lead, coal,, together with the greatefl abundance of fine falmon ; and the natives behave quietly and barter fairly; jo-that a moft i profitable NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA profitable trade might doubtlefs be carried on here by any perfons of fufficient enterprife to undertake it. 119 CHAP. VI. Vu— ,rm\ ■—« w0 1786. Auguft. Wednef. 9, Towari>s midnight the gale fubfided, and at three o'clock in the morning of the ioth a light breeze coming Thurfday 1 on from the North North Eaft, we began to unmoor. At five o'clock we weighed, and came to fail with a moderate breeze at North Eaft. Soon after we got under fail, the wind began to haul round to the South Eaft; and finding, that the ebb-tide fet us in towards the South point of the bay we had juft left (and which obtained the Name of Trading Bay), it became neceffary to haul the wind clofe. Juft as we got a-breaft of the point, we were taken by a very rapid tide fetting to the South Weft (which was a direction very different to what we expected); and there being little wind, and that little Southerly, we were not aMe to get out of the tide, though a very little puffi would have done it; for the South South Eaft tide line was juft Without us. Immediately afterwards I faw a dry fhoal bearing South Weft, right in the direction of the tide's courfe,. and we were driving for it at the rate of five miles an hour. I prefently faw that there was no other method of avoiding this fhoal than by anchoring, and was glad to find we had clear ground ; therefore anchored immediately in elevens fathoms water, over a bottom of fine dark fand inclining to mud. The Queen Charlotte eame-to at the fame time,.» about half a mile to the Weftward of us.- The South Point of Trading Bay bore North 24tf Weft, four miles diftant ; the Eafl point ot an ifland ,to the Southward of us, South 50 Eaft, and the North Eaft point of the fhoal South 140 Eafl, diftant a quarter of a mile. At iffC !)M1 ra kil VOYAGE TO THE At low water the fhoal was dry for about a mile and a half, extending from North Eafl to South Weft. It appeared to be a bank of black muddy fand, flat on every fide, and the water fo fmooth all round, that if we had drifted on it, in all probability we fhould not have received any injury. However, as we had little wind, and fine clear weather, I fent my whale-boat to found all round it. Within this fhoal to the Weftward the land appeared very high, and in many places covered with fnow. Near the fea was a narrow flip of low-land covered with pines, and there appeared fome openings like harbours; but time would not admit of my fending the boat to examine them. I faw a rock from the maft-head, which is covered before high water in the direction of North half Eafl, from the Eaftern point of that ifland to the Southward of us, and forms part of a fhoal that appears to ftretch out two or three miles. A rock was alfo feen about half a mile from the South point of Trading Bay, which, together with the fhoals, makes the navigation in this part of the river much more dangerous than it was fuppofed to be. Whilft we lay at anchor, feveral fmall canoes came off from a town near the South point of Trading Bay. In one of them was a man whom I had found very ufeful in procuring furs during our flay in the bay ; on which account he was called " the Factor.''' I clearly underflood from him, that the Ruffians frequented the Weft fide of the ifland to the Southward, and that there is a paffage betwixt that and the main; if fo, I think it muft be" greatly incommoded with fhoals, and dangerous on account of the rapidity of the tides. My friend the Factor brought nothing to difpofe of except a few falmon. It feems, his principal motive in paying me this vifit was, to beg m mm NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. beg our affiftance againft the Ruffians. He was very importunate with me to grant his requeft, intimating at the fame time that he could prefently affemble a large fleet of canoes, with which, afiifted by our fhips, they could eafily get the better of their enemies. On my refilling his requeft, he feemed rather mortified; but to confole him in fome meafure for this difappointment, I gave him a light horfeman's cap, of which he was very proud; and his countrymen beheld him with fuch a mixture of admiration and envy, that I greatly queftion whether he will be able to keep it long in his pofleflion. I alfo diftributed a few trifles amongft the other Indians, and they returned on fhore perfectly fatisfied, notwithftanding I refufed to efpoufe their caufe againft the Ruffians. At one o'clock the whale-boat returned from founding, and the officer who was in her informed me, that he found four and five fathoms water about half a mile from the fhoal, and ail round it near the fame depth over a bottom of black muddy fand, the tide running at the rate of four miles an hour. Soon after, four o'clock, the flood being nearly done, we weighed and flretched over for the Eaftern fhore, with a light breeze from the South South Eafl. After getting about two miles to the Eaftward, the water deepened fo much, that we got no ground with fixty fathoms of line ; but after pafiing the mid channel, we ftruck the ground in thirty-four fathoms water, over a fhingly bottom, and the water fhoaled gradually as we advanced towards the Eaflern fhore. About nine o'clock we anchored in fixteen fathoms water, over a fhingly bottom, us I judged the ebb to have been done; but it run down R near CHAP» VI. "1786." Auguft. ThiuridaylO» ws ■*■ T£2 ill E II* 1786. Auguft. Friday it. A VOYAGE TO fHE P* near an hour longer than I expected. When at anchor, r the South point of Trading Bay bore North 460 Wefl. The extremes of the ifland on the Wéflern fhore South 65* Wefl, and South 30' Wefl, diflant from the nearefl land on the Eafl fhore about two leagues. Next morning at half pafl five o'clock, the flood-tide being done, we weighed and made fail with a light breeze at South South Weft, and carried foundings along fhore about two leagues diftant, from fifteen to twenty fathoms, over a fhingly bottom. At eight o'clock, the North point of an ifland on the Weftern fhore bore North 840 Weft, fix leagues, and fome rocks that are fituated two miles from the Eaftern fhore, South 5 30 Eaft, three leagues diftant. Thefe rocks make their appearance at all times of tide, yet are not noticed in captain Cook's chart of the river, but are in Mr. Edgar's, who was mailer of the Difcovery j he I think has kid them down about a league too far to the Southward- We tacked at nine o'clock, and foon afterwards faw a number of canoes, which at firftT concluded were traders" coming, off fjo the fhip ; but on looking at them through* a glafs, I perceived two Ruffian boats amongft them; they were about a league to the Northward of us, and appeared to be Handing over for the ifland on the Weflern fhore : jufl at this time the breeze from the South South- Welt frefhening, the boats fet their fails, and pufhed over for the ifland. They no doubt were the fame party we met at Coal Harbour ; and probably the Factor's intelligence^ reflecting their having a fettlement on the Wefl fide of that ifland, was true. Having NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 12' Having in general light variable winds, with calms by c HVIA p- turns, we took the advantage of the tide in Handing down '- — ~j> the river, and by noon on the 13 th were well clear of it. Auguà. At that time the extremes of the Barren Iflands bore South Sunday I3' Weft and South, 3 8° Weft; Cape Elizabeth North, 8o° Weft, diftant about five leagues; and our diftance from the neareft fhore about three leagues. The land on which Cape Elizabeth is fituated is an ifland, and in the ftraits formed by it and the back land there is good anchorage and fhelter. Hereabouts would be a moft defirable fituation for carrying on a whale-fifhery ; the whales being on the coaft, and clofe in fhore, in vaft numbers ; and there being convenient and excellent harbours quite handy for the bufinefs. The Barren Iflands, which are fituated nearly in the midway between Point Banks and Cape Elizabeth, are very high and totally barren ; they lie in a clufler, and appear to have good paffages between them. With a fine breeze from the Weft South Weft we ftood along-fhore, at the diftance of three leagues, fleering Eaft by North for Prince William's Sound. The lead was kept conftantly going, but we got no ground with forty fathoms of line. At eight o'clock I changed the courfe to North Eaft half Eaft, in order to make the South Weft point of Montague Ifland ; the Wefternmoft land in fight bearing Weft South Weft, and the Eafternmoft North by Weft, eight or nine leagues diftant. Light variable winds, with intervening calms and hazy weather, prevented us from making any great progrefs towards the entrance into Prince William's Sound. At two o'clock in the afternoon of the 17th, having nearly a Thurfday 17.' calm, and the current fetting us directly off fhore, we R 2 anchored m Î2"4 A VOYAGE TO THE 1 lllli ,,,,, M» ,! il e j&p p> anchored in forty-three fathoms water, over a bottom of i786. Auguft. frîday îS» gravel mixed with fmall ftones and fhells. The extremes of Montague Ifland bore North, 450 Eaft, and North, Thurfday p go E^; the mi(idle of the paffage into Prince William's Sound North, 2° Eaft ; and our diftance from the neareft land three or four miles. During the afternoon and night we had light airs, inclining to calm, with thick foggy weather. Next morning a moderate breeze fprung up from the Weft South Weft ; but the fog was fo thick, that we could not fee any object half a cable's length from the fhip. At ûx o'clock in the afternoon, the fog rather difperfing, we weighed and came to fail ; but the day being fo far fpent, I did not think it prudent to fland in for the pafîage in the night ; therefore ftood to the Southward under an eafy fail. We had foundings in forty-four fathoms water, with a bottom of grey fand ; but at mid- nighty in Handing to the North Wefl, we flruck no ground with ninety fathoms of line, and prefently afterwards got no bottom with 106 fathoms. At nine o'clock Sasasday 19-. next morning, the fog clearing away over Montague Ifland, we faw the North Eafl point bearing North, 390 Eafl, four leagues diflant; but light baffling winds prevented our making any great progrefs towards it. At four in the afternoon the extremes of Montague. Ifland7. bore from North by Eaft to Eaft, the nearefl part about four miles diflant, and a rock which lies to the South Weft of the Green Ifles, North, n° Eaff. A light breeze now fprung up at Eafl, with which we - fleered North- North Eaft, and I began to conceive hopes that we fhould get into the paffage before night came on ;, in this; however I was difapp©inted ; for as foon as we got the paffage open, we took the current, and the wisd growing; NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 125 1786. Auguft. Saturday 19-, growing fcant, it fet us to leeward of the paffage, and c nYA p* ~very faft towards fome fmall iflands and rocks which are fituated at the South extreme of an ifland that forms the Weftern fide of the pafîage : I therefore, at fix o'clock, was under the neceffity of tacking and Handing to the South South Eafl; and even then, with a three-knot breeze, and all the fail we could carry, for near three hours, we could barely keep clear of the rocks ; indeed I could have anchored at this time, but we had eighty-four fathoms water, which I thought too great a depth to anchor in. During our ineffectual attempt to make the entrance, we had the boats a-head towing the fhip, but all to no purpofe ; and I mufl own that it was rather a mortifying circumftance to be thrown out, after making ourfelves almofl fure of getting into the paffage, as at one time we had every reafon to expect, and had got all ready for anchoring. The wind continued variable, but generally in the Eaflern and Northern boards, which was quite unfavourable to us, and we confequently plied to little advantage. At three o'clock in the afternoon of the 21H Monday |§ the South Weft point of Montague Ifland bore North. Weft by North ; having then a frefh breeze at Eaft North Eaft, I flood directly in for it, intending, if poffible, to have luffed round it, and to have anchored in a fandy bay that lies juft round the South Weft point. For fome time every thing was in our favour, and I had hardly a doubt of gaining anchorage, until we brought the South Weft point to bear North by Eaft, when the current took us on the weather-bow, and drove us bodily to leeward 5 fo that there was not a poffibility of our making the wifned- for entrance. At four o'clock the extremes of Montague: Ifland bore North, 40 Eaft, and North, 4.50 Eaft, diftant from* m I2Ô A VOYAGE TO T H E '■' III s '1786! Auguft. Monday 21 c HVrA P* from the South Weft point three miles. A frefh gale coming on at North Eaft, with heavy fqualls and thick rainy weather, we tacked and ftood to the South Eaft by Eaft. On founding, we had twenty fathoms water, over a rocky bottom. Till the 24th the wind continued at North Eaft, blowing frefh and in fqualls, with thick rainy weather ; fo that I gave up all hopes of making Prince William's Sound by the South Weft paffage, and determined to try for an entrance that leads into the Sound by Cape Hinchinbrooke. At five o'clock in the morning Thurfday 24. of the 24th, the wind fhifting to Eaft South Eaft, I fleered North Eaft, in order to make the Eaftern paffage into the Sound ; the weather thick and hazy. For fome days paft no land had appeared in fight ; but this afternoon at four o'clock we faw land, which formed a high bluff point, bearing North, 460 Weft, about four leagues diftant. The former heavy gales from the North Eaft were now fuc- ceeded by light variable winds and thick foggy weather, which caufed us to ply occafionally, though to little purpofe, as it was totally impracticable, with fuch weather, ■to make our intended port. Saturday326. At eight o'clock in the evening of the 26th a light breeze came on from the South Weft, the fog difperfed, and we had clear, pleafant weather ; fo that I was in expectation of a fettled South Weft wind ; therefore fleered North North Eaft for the Eaftern paffage into Prince William's Sound. Juaday 27. Towards midnight, the breeze frefhening with thick dirty weather, we brought-to with the fhip':s head to the Southward ; and at three o'clock, the fog clearing up, 2 we NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. we bore away to the Northward and made fail. Our favourable profpect however was but of fhort duration ; for we again had variable winds and foggy weather to encounter with ; on this, I fent my whale-boat on board the Queen Charlotte for captain Dixon, in order to confiait him refpecting our future proceedings. He came immediately on board the King George ; and after fixing on King George's Sound for our winter quarters, we came to a refolution of quitting this part of the coaft in a day or tVo, fhould the wind continue unfavourable, and endeavouring to make fome harbour farther to the Southward. Indeed it was high time to come to a determination of this fort ; the feafon for our bufinefs was far advanced,, and much time had been fpent to no purpofe, owing to contrary winds and bad weather, a continuation of which, together with heavy gales of wind from the Weftward, might foon be expected to fet in with a continuance; it was therefore thought moft prudent, fhould we be difappointed a fhort time longer, to make the beft of our way to the Southward, and endeavour to get into Crofs Sound,, or the Bay of Iflands : both of them being; harbours feen by captain Cook during our laft voyage. Having fettled thefe points, captain Dixon returned on board his own* veffel- 127 CHAP. VI. 1786. Auguft. Sunday 27. p.^l The fun breaking out juft at noon, we had an oppor^-- ' tunity of taking an obfervation,, which- gave 590' latitude, the longitude 1460 3'.- We founded at four o'clock with 100 fathoms of line,, but got no erou'nd: the extremes of the land in fight bore' im imW 1 m ! iilJi VOYAGE TO THE c HVIA p' bore from Wefl half North to North North Wefl half Wefl, diflant from the nearefl part of it feven or eight leagues. At fix o'clock the land in fight bore Weft by South and North Eafl. The land to the North Eaft appeared to be two low iflands, which I conje&ured were fituated between Kayes Ifland and the land of Cape Hinchinbrooke ; at the fame time the points of an opening, which I took for the Eaftern paffage into Prince William's Sound, bore North Weft half North, and North North Weft, diflant five or fix leagues. Having a moderate breeze from the North Eaft, and fine weather, we flood in towards the opening till eight o'clock, when the wind hauled to the North North Eaft, which laid us off fo much that we could not fetch in ; therefore we tacked and ftood to the Eaftward under an eafy fail, in- Monday28. tending to try for the paffage next morning. At two o'clock we wore, and fleered North by Weft half Weft,, with a breeze from the North Eaft by North. At four o'clock, having a frefh gale at North Eafl, and fine clear weather, I expected from the courfe we had been fleering during the night that we fhould have had the fmall iflands, feen by us the preceding evening, bearing about North by Eaft, and diftant about four miles ; from which fituation, with the North Eafl wind we now had, we could have run into the paffage with a large wind ; but I was much furprifed to fee the fmall iffands bearing North Eafl by North, and diflant about nine leagues ; fo much had the current driven us off fhore during the night. However, we ftood to the North North Weft under all the fail we' could fet ; hoping, if the weather remained fettled, that we might be able before night came on to get into the paffage, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 129 1786. Auguft. Monday 28. paffage, and anchor there ; fo that if the wind failed us, c H ^ p* we might be able to work in to the Sound with the tide ; but at feven o'clock it began to blow very frefh, with thick hazy weather, and every appearance of an approaching gale, the land entirely hid with a thick fog. Under thefe circumftances I did not think it prudent to run in for the paffage ; therefore at half paft feven o'clock we tacked and flood to the South Eaft. I now gave, up all thoughts of getting into the Sound this feafon ; therefore determined to quit this part of the coaft immediately, and Hand to the Southward, where there was a probability of meeting with more favourable weather. With a frefh gale from the Eaft North Eaft, we fleered South Eaft by South, the weather ftill thick and foggy, attended with rain. During \ the night we frequently founded with eighty fathoms of line, but got no bottom. The wind- never fixed at one point for any length of time, but varied continually ; fometimes blowing frefh and irr fqualls, with alternate calms and thick rainy weather. iSl m On the 4th of September, finding myfelf very indifferent, I fent for captain Dixon to come on board, intending,, fhould my illnefs increafe fo as to prevent me from keeping the deck, for the Queen Charlotte to take the lead, and make for Crofs Sound, from thence to Cape Edgecombe, and afterwards to King George's Sound, where we had before determined to winter, and build a fhalop of about fixty or feventy tons burthen, if we were fortunate, enough to get in before the winter feafon fet in fo S. fe bad September, Monday 4, ! Hi lï 130 C H A VI. P. «786. September. Tuefday 5. A.VOYAGE TO THE bad as to prevent us from making the neceffary preparations for effecting that purpofe. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 5th we faw the land making in two very high mountains, one of which bore North North Weft half Weft, and the other North North Weft half Wefl, diftant fourteen or fifteen leagues. Thefe mountains we fuppofed to be Mount Saint Elias and Mount Fairweather, according to their fituation in captain Cook's chart. We now had light variable airs, which caufed us to ply occafionally, and retarded our progrefs very much. Our latitude at noon was 5 8° 16' North, and the longitude 1400 3'. »■ liai Hi ill l]i in I In the afternoon, finding myfelf fo ill as not to be able to keep the deck, I defired my firft mate to fpeak the Queen Charlotte, and requeft captain Dixon to take the Saturday 9. lead, which he accordingly did. In the forenoon of the 9th, Mount Fairweather was feen bearing Eaft North Eaft. This mountain is fituated a little to the Northward and Eaftward of Crofs Sound. At noon, having a moderate breeze from the South Eaft by Eaft, with open cloudy weather, we ftood in fliore to the North Eaft by Eaft ; the land in fight extending from Eafl North Eaft to North North Eaft half Eaft, and a low point North Eaft half Eaft, four or five leagues diflant. Our latitude then was 570 54', and the longitude 137* 58'. At two o'clock, the wind being then at Eaft South Eaft, our courfe was changed to North Eaft, in order to made Crofs Sound ; but in a few hours afterwards, being well in" with it, captain Dixon hailed, and defired my firft mate to NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. «3» to acquaint me, that he faw no appearance of a port in c ** A p- the fituation laid down in captain Cook's chart for Crofs « » ■», Sound ; but that what captain Cook took for an opening September, in the land, was nothing more than a deep valley with Satwday9* low land in it, which, at the confiderable diftance he was from the fhore, might eafily be miflaken for a deep opening, and confequently a good harbour might be çxpected. 'i/'v»l ii ■c,,; ll S 2 - '■ I-' ("Ï g. i ■ M¥ lit! 132 VOYAGE TO THE 111! ft Pi» ■RE hi; II ill jll It llii CHAP. VII. Fruklefs Att-empt to fall in with the Bay of Iflands.— Proceed along the Coaft towards King George s Sound.— Unfuccefsful Attempt to make it.—Departure from the 'Coaft.—Paffage from thence to the Sandwich Ifands.— Saint Maria la Gorta.—Arrive off Owhyhee.—Refrefhments obtained.-—Natives Propenftty to Theft.—Plan of future Proceedings.—The Ships leave Owhyhee.—Pick up a Canoe with fome Indians in Diftrefs.—Anchor at Woahoo.. c h * a p. TVTOT falling in with Crofs Sound, as was expected, < —m .i A and having no fpare time to look for it in any other sepwmber. fituation, we tacked at four o'clock, and ftood to the Saturday 9. Southward with a moderate breeze from the Eaft South Eaft, and dark unfettled looking weather : the land in fight extending from North North Wefl to Eaft South Eaft, about four leagues diftant from the neareft part. Sunday 10. The wind continued moderate till four o'clock the next morning, when a ftrong gale came on from the North Eaft, attended with heavy rain. At nine o'clock the wind fhifted to Eaft South Eaft, the gale increafing with thick rainy weather, which obliged us to hand the top- fails and reef the courfes. Towards noon the gale gradually fubfided, and at fix o'clock we had a light breeze from the South South Weft, with a very heavy crofs fea, which caufed 111 Ill* NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. lo3 the night c h à p. VJI. caufed the fhip to labour exceedingly. Duriri we had light variable winds with confiant rain : this how ever was not of long continuance ; for at noon on the September. nth a heavy gale fprung up from the Eafl South Eaft; Monday „. the rain ftill continuing without intermi-ffion. The almoft confiant fucceffion of bad weather we for fome time paft had experienced, induced me to think that the bad weather feafon was fet in, and that our making a port on the coaft would be very precarious ; in that cafe we fhould be obliged to water, and fpend the winter at the Sandwich Iflands. Under this confideration, I judged it prudent to put the fhip's company to an allowance of water at the rate of two quarts a man a dayv1 The gale continued to blow from the Eaftward and Wednef. m Southward, with very little intermiffion, till noon on the 13th; it then grew moderate. Our latitude then was 5 6° 37', and the longitude 138° 31'. Having then a moderate breeze from the South by Eaft, we fleered Eaft North Eaft, in order to make the land near Cape Edgecombe. At nine o'clock the wind fhifted to the South Weft, blowing frefh, with hazy weather. At midnight we hauled the wind to the Southward, and at five o'clock the next morning bore away and made Th fail, Handing in for the land with a moderate breeze at South Weft. At fix o'clock the land near Cape Edgecombe was feen bearing North Eaft by North, and at eight the land in fight extended from North half Weft to North North Eaft half Eaft, diftant from the neareft 5 Part fday 14. wl n irvVCLF* 2fi iji'lll *34 A VOYAGE.,TO THE C *vn P' Part ^our or ^ve ^eagues* We now jbodtto the Nortib. by *—— » Eaft, in order to gain the fituation laid down by captain Cook 'tember. for the Bay of Iflands, where weliad great hopes of making a Thurfday 14. ocj pQrt. \^ut after getting within two leagues of the land, no place could be difcovered JYJiich had the appearance of a harbour, or even a fafe bay : at the fame time we could get no ground with eighty fathoms of line. Juft before noon, nothing like a harbour making its appearance, and obferv- ing a ledge of rocks to the Northward of us ftretching fome diftance from the fhore, towards which a current was fweeping us very faft, captain Dixon (who ftill took the lead) thought it moft prudent to haul off fhore to the Weftward ; at the fame time the wind backed a little to the Southward, which enabled us to clear the reef. We fhould not have been in much danger, had there been a commanding breeze ; but we unfortunately had light winds, and a confiderable fwell rolling on towards the fhore, againft which the fhip could fcarcely fleer or make any way. The latitude at noon was 570 6' and 13 6° 40* longitude. During the afternoon we had light variable winds and dark gloomy weather. At fix o'clock the land in fight extended from North by Eaft to South Eaft half Eaft, diftant from the neareft fhore three or four leagues. Towards evening the weather had a dirty unfettled appearance, and in the night a fieavy gale of wind came on from the Eaft South Eaft, with thick rainy weather, which continued till ten o'clock the next forenoon, when the weather grew more moderate, Friday 15- We NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA *3* We plied with variable winds till noon on the 16th, c ^A p* when feeing no probability of meeting with a harbour |—aj—-* near Cape Edgecombe, we gave up all further thoughts September, of it, and determined to Hand for King George's Sound. atur ay \ * A fresh breeze now fprung up from the Weft South Wefl, which brought with it clear weather. On the 18th Monday 18. at noon we were in 530 46' latitude, and 1340 6' longitude ; and at one o'clock the land was feen bearing Eaft North Eaft, fourteen leagues diftant : at four, the land extended from North to Eaft South Eaft, and an appearance of a bay bore Eaft by North. Having a frefli gale at North North Weft and clear weather, by fix o'clock we were within two leagues of the fhore, and had an opportunity of feeing that there was no appearance of a harbour, as we before had fuppofed, nor any fign of inhabitants. At this time the Queen Charlotte being fome diftance a-head, wore and flood under our lee, and captain Dixon hailed, and acquainted me that he faw no appearance of a harbour or any inhabitants. The land in this fituation is high, and breaks into abrupt cliffs which hang over the fea, and are wafhed by a very heavy furf. We now fleered South with a fine gale at North Weft and clear weather; our diftance from fhore about two leagues. The wind ftill continuing favourable, we fleered more to the Eaftward, in order to keep well in with the coaft. On the 21ft, in latitude 500 47', and 1290 28'longi- Thurfday2i. tude, we faw an ifland bearing North Eafl by Eaft half lÉaft, fix or feven leagues diftant ; and at fix o'clock in 3 the WiM-AM m M ï 1 Il '-: I ii m\ \M\ i i w pip ' t 136 AVOYAGE TO THE iiVC c ** A p- the afternoon the ifland bore North, 2 8° Weft, « i leagues ; at the fame time another ifland appeared in fight, September, bearing North, 450 Eaft, diftant ten or eleven leagues. Friday 22. Early in the morning of the 2 2d we faw the land extending from North to North Eaft, diftant ten or eleven leagues. At noon the land extended from North Weft half North to North Eafl by North ; Woody Point bore North by Weft, three leagues, and a high rock detached from it North by Weft, a quarter Weft, two leagues diftant. The land to the Southward and Eaftward appeared to form a good bay, which we fleered for with a frefh breeze from the North North Weft, in hopes of coming to anchor before night came on. As we drew near the fhore I ordered the whale-boat to be lowered down, and fent her a-head to found ; but at half paft two o'clock, feeing not the leaft appearance of fhelter, I made the fignal for the boat to come on board : at that time we. were not more than three miles from fhore, and had thirty-four fathoms water over a foul bottom. Immediately after the boat was hoifted up we ftood along fhore to the Eaftward towards King George's Sound, the land extending from North North Eaft half Eaft to North Weft -by Weft ; Woody Point North Weft by North,; three leagues, and the rocks off Wcody Point North Weft half North, two leagues diftant. The fpace between thofe rocks and Woody Point appears to be foul ground, as there are many rocks juft fhewing their heads above water, on which the fea frequently breaks. At feven o'clock we hauled off the land and Hood South Wefl by Wefl,, the wind then blowing frefh at North Wefl by Weft ; and Saturday 23. ancl at daylight next morning wore fhip and fleered North if" half II NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. half Eaft. The land at noon extending from Eaft by South to Weft North Weft half Weft, we fleered Eafl North Eaft, with a moderate breeze from the North Well by North, and pleafant weather. Our latitude then was 490 48', and the longitude 1270 8'. At two o'clock, feeing a canoe putting off from the fhore, we fhortened fail and brought-to for her to come up ; fhe had two Indians in her, but we could not prevail on either of them to come on board : they had fome fifh which we bought, and I made them a few trifling prefents ; after which chey left us and paddled for that part of the fhore between Woody Point and King George's Sound. At five o'clock the North Point of the entrance into King George's Sound bore North, 730 Eafl ; the breakers that lie off that point Eaft half North, three leagues diftant: the Eafternmoft land in fight South, 730 Eaft, diftant eighc or nine leagues, and the Wefternmofl land Weft by North half North, thirteen leagues diftant. Having light winds ana hazy weather, we.found it impracticable to reach the Sound before night ; therefore hauled to the South South Eaft. In the courfe of the evening we frequently fouided, and had from fifty-four to fixty-two fathoms water over a muddy bottom. During the night we plied occafionally, with light variable winds and hazy weather. At fix o'clock in the morning of the 24th the haze clearing away, we faw the land about the Sound, the North 'point of the entrance bearing North Eaft by Eafl, nine or ten leagues diftant. The wind being ftill light, and frequently inclining to calm, our progrefs towards the Sound was very flow. At four o'clock in the afternoon of the 25th the North point of the entrance bore North, 6i° Eaft, three leagues diftant : having a light breeze at South by Eaft, T we CHAP. VII. 1——.—^_> 1786. September. Saturday 23. Sunday 24. Monc rnm WW ■ Ill II il I MEM 1 Et ii V il lu u' iltlii) Hi ill tifIISIIbIiiErl 1 111 tiilliifi il I ill H i 1 1 1 «i ii CHAP. VII. 1786. September. Monday 25. 1 ueiaay 26, A VOYAGE TO THE we fleered Eafl by South, expecting to gain the entrance ; but at five o'clock the ligfit breeze we had fhifted to South Eaft, and a current fet us ftrongly to the North North Weft ; fo that it was impoffible for us to fetch into the Sound ; and night .coming on, we tacked and ftood to the South Weft by South. About fix o'clock the wind began to frefhen at South Eaft, with every appearance of an approaching gale : therefore I thought it moft advifable to get a little offing before it came om; as thofe gales from the South Eaft, after blowing hard a while in that quarter, geneially haul to the Southward, and blow with great violence ; in which cafe the land of the Bay of Good Hope all becomes a lee and dangerous fhore. - At eight o'clock the horizon to the South and South Eaft looked remarkably red and wild, with ftrong flafhes of lightning in tlofe boards. At ten the wind blew very frefh from the Baft South Eaft, with thick weather and hard rain ; at that time we wore and ftood in fhore to the North Eaft, with an intention of keeping pretty near the entrance of t'ne Sound, in order to be ready for pufhing into it the next morning, fhould an opportunity offer 'y but at eleven o'clock the gale increafed fo faft upon us, that all hands were barely fufficient to make the fhip fnug enough for its reception. At midnight we wore and flood to the South by Weft ; immediately afterwards an exceeding heavy guft of wind came on, which obliged us to clew the topfails down on the cap ; the forefail (although a very fmall one, made purpofely for a foul-weather fail) gave way at both clews, and both the foot and leech ropes broke fhort off ; yet we fortunately got the fail made fnug before it fplit, unbent it, and bent a new one. At three o'clock the wind fhifted to the South Eaft, and. blew a mere NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. •*® mere hurricane, which brought on a very heavy fea, and c j||jf p; occafioned the fhip to labour and ftrain exceedingly. It *———* certainly was the moft dreadful night I ever few, and to September. add to the awful fcene of a tremendous fea, loud thunder, u uyz** fierce lightning, and torrents of rain, we had at each maft-head, and at every yard-arm, thofe meteors called by failors compafants, which gave a light at leaft equal to the fame number of lights hung aloft : befides thofe on the mafts and yards, they were flying about on all parts of the rigging. \ ^ It is the generally received opinion of feafaring men, that when the compafant reaches the topgallant-mafl- heads, the gale is at or near its height, and indeed we found it fo ; for about half paft three, after a moft violent guff of wind, which did not continue more than two or three minutes, the clouds began to break, and the weather became more moderate, the wind inclining to the South Eaft by South. At fix o'clock it fell almoft calm, and we had a prodigious heavy fea from the South South Eafl; foon afterwards we faw the land near the entrance into King George's Sound, bearing Eafl North Eaft, five or fix leagues diftant, on which we ftood for it with a very light breeze at Weft, the weather looking unfettled, and a very heavy crofs fea running. By two in the afternoon it grew nearly calm ; and finding all our efforts to get into the Sound ineffectual, we hauled off fhore to the Southward. II Light airs, with intervening calms, prevailed till four o'clock in the morning of the 27th, when a frefh gale wednef. 27. fprung up at South Eaft by Eaft, attended with thick rainy T !:II In iinh «■ life i Il il J ii If Iran 140 C H A VII. c.—I— 178* A VOYAGE TO THE Pi rainy weather ; we now flood to the North Eaft by Eaft; ~> but the wind fhifted every hour, fo that there was not sep'teïiber. a poflibility of keeping our courfe. At eight o'clock, Wedrx.27. j^y^g a moderate breeze at South Weft, we fleered Eaft North Eaft ; at the fame time the land made its appearance through the haze, bearing from North North Weft to Eaft North Eafl. This breeze, however, was of fhort duration ; for in the fpace of an hour it grew nearly calm, and continued light and variable till four in the afternoon, when a little breeze fprung up from the South Weft; but iudging with fo light a breeze that we could not reacfr< the Sound before night (our diftance from it being about fix leagues), we ftood to the South South Eaft, with an intention of fpending the night in Handing off and on, and then, if an opportunity offered at daylight, to run into the Sound. During the former part of the night the wind blew frefh and in fqualls, with frequent heavy fhowers of hail; this was fucceeded by light variable winds Thurfday 28. and thick rainy weather. At fix o'clock next morning we tacked and bore away to the North Eaft, the weather hazy, and a prodigious heavy fwell from the South Weft. The North point of the entrance into King George's Sound at eight o'clock bore North Eaft half North, diftant four leagues, and the Wefternmoft land in fight North Weft by North, fix leagues diftant. At nine it fell calm, and the heavy fwell continuing from the South Weft, and a ftrong current fetting to the North North Eaft drove us very faft towards the fhore, and fome breakers that are fituated to the Northward and Weftward of the entrance into the Sound. At firft I had fome thoughts of getting our boats out to tow the fhip's head round, and to keep her off fhore ; but the motion of the fhip was fo 11 greats NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 141 great, occafioned by the fwell, that it would hardly have c IVIA p- been poffible to have hoifted them out without dafhing S——-* A _ t) 1786. them to pieces ; indeed, if they had been out they September. could have had no effect on the fhip againft fo heavy a fwell rolling directly on fhore. It continued calm till eleven o'clock, at which time we were very near the breakers, and the fwell feeming to increafe as we approached the fhore, I was preparing to anchor with one of the bowers in fixty-four fathoms water, when a light breeze fprung up at South Eafl ; this was, in the fituation we then were, almofl directly from the entrance into the Sound ; fo that we could not make it, and had no alternative left but to get the fhip's head off fhore, and get an offing as well as we could. At noon the breeze frefhened at South Eaft, and we ftood to the South Wefl ; at the fame time an exceeding heavy fwell rolled in fhore, which broke in a frightful furf on the rocks and breakers : the North point of the entrance into King George's Sound bore North, 650 Weft, four or five leagues diflant ; our diflance from the breakers one mile and a half, and from the nearefl land about three miles. In the afternoon we had light baffling winds, with, frequent fqualls and heavy fhowers of hail and rain* I now faw not the leaft probability of our getting into the Sound this feafon ; the bad weather appeared to be fet in for a continuance, our fails and rigging were much damaged, and the crews ftood greatly in need of refrefh- ment ; under thefe circumftances, I came to a determination ii»' hH THE c «A p- nation of leaving the coaft, and flanding directly for the Sandwich Iflands ; and hailing the Queen Charlotte, I ac- September. quainted captain Dixon with my intention. * At eight o'clock in the morning of the 29th we fleered South by Weft with a frefh Wefterly breeze. Woody Point at that time bore North Weft half Weft, the Eafternmoft land in fight Eaft by North, and the entrance of King George's Sound North, 500 Eaft, eleven leagues diftant. The breeze continued Wefterly till the morning of the 30th, when it was fucceeded by light variable winds, inclining to calm. The weather being clear and fine, the failors hammocks and chefts were got upon deck, and their clothes well aired ; the fliip was fcraped clean between decks and aired with fires. In 460 48/ North latitude, arid 131° 6' longitude, we found 190 Eafterly variation. On the 7th October a ftrong gale of wind came on at South South Wefl, with hazy weather and rain, which however was not of long, duration, and the Wind fhifting to the South Weft, brought with it clear weather. The wind continued variable, chiefly in the Southern and Weftern boards, frequentlv blowing frefh and in fqualls, with unfettled weather. On the 12th, in 3 8* 44/ latitude, and 133° i6/ longitude, the wind hauled to the Northward, and blew frefh from that quarter, till noon on the 14th, when, after a few hours calm, it fhifted to the Southward and Eaftward, The Thurfday 12. Saturday 14, m CHAP. VII. « —* 1786. ' Oélober. Saturday 14. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. The feurvy beginning to make its appearnce on fome of the people, the fhip's company were ferved a pint of Port wine a-day inftead of fpirits. We proceeded towards the Sandwich Iflands without meeting with any thing worthy of note. The wind hanging from South to South Eaft, and being in general light and very variable between thefe points, rendered our progrefs tedious. On the 26th, in 32* 36" latitude, and 1430 35' longi- Thurfday^. tude, we faw great numbers of tropic birds, one of which was in purfuit of a fmall land bird, very much like a fnipe. In captain Cook's general chart the centre of an ifland, named Saint Maria la Gorta, is placed in 28° North latitude, and 1490 200 Weft longitude. Our latitude at noon, on the ift of November, was 2 8° 14'North, and the longitude 1480' 35' ; in which fituation, having fine clear weather, we certainly ought to have feen that ifland, but not the leaf! appearance of land Was to be feen from the maft-head ; and the next forenoon we run directly Thurfday 2 over the fpot where Saint Maria la Gorta ffiould be fituated ; fo that there is great reafon to fuppofe no fuch place November; Wednef. i. 18**1 exifts. In the morning of the 9th the wind blew very frefh Thurfday 9, and in fqualls from the South Eafl, attended with torrents of rain and fierce lightning. At nine o'clock it increafed to a ftrong gale, with violent fqualls, which obliged us to clofe-reef the topfails ; but before that could be effected, 7 t^ie VOYAGE TO THE the maintopfail was fplit ; another was immediately bent and clofe-reefed. At three in the afternoon the wind hauled to South by Weft, and the weather grew more moderate. During the ioth the wind varied from South South Eaft to South by Weft, blowing frefh and in fqualls, the weather dark and cloudy, with frequent heavy rains. Next morning the wind gradually fhifted to the Weftward, and at eight o'clock we had a moderate breeze from the North Weft, the weather ftill thick and rainy ; this continued till moon, when we had a light breeze at North, with clear pleafant weather. At noon on the 12th the latitude was 21° 26' and 152s 51' longitude. With a moderate breeze at North I fleered South by Weft and South South Weft, in order to get to the.Eaftward of Owhyhee, fo that if the wind inclined to the Southward we could eafily run down the longitude. Thurfday 16. On the 14th at noon, being in 200 4' latitude and 15 30 47' longitude, we fleered Wefl by South ; and at five o'clock in the afternoon faw the land, which we prefently found to be a high mountain on the ifland of Owhyhee, with fome patches of fhow on its fummit, bearing Weft South Weft half Weft, near thirty leagues diftant. Having light winds, we did not fee the land till next day at noon, when Owhyhee again made its appearance, bearing South Weft half Weft, twelve or fourteen leagues diftant. In the morning of the 16th, with a frefh breeze at South Eafl, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. i4j CHAP. VII. November. Eaft, we ftood to the South Weft for Owhyhee, the North point bearing Weft by South, eleven or twelve leagues, and our diftance from the neareft fhore about five leagues. .,_,*„ As we run along the coaft feveral canoes came off to us, Thurfdayl6# but they had nothing to difpofe of except a few fmall fifh: indeed the wind blew frefh, and there was fo much fea running, that the natives could not with fafety venture off with any thing to fell. At noon, having a frefh breeze from the Eaftward, we ftood to the North Weft by North, about three miles diftant from fhore. About five o'clock the Eaft end of Mowee bore North North Weft half Weft, nine or ten leagues diftant. When night came on we could perceive large fires lighted in different parts of the country ; moft probably to inform the inhabitants in more diflant parts of the ifland of our arrival. Early next morning, with a Friday i7. gentle breeze from the Eaftward, we run along fhore to the North Weft ; and our diftance from it being not more than three or four miles, a number of canoes were preparing to follow us. After approaching the North point of the ifland, we founded in rounding the point, and had about fixteen fathoms water, over a bottom of white fand and beds of coral rock ; our diftance from the fhore about two miles. No fhelter was to be feen for fhips to anchor under, and a very heavy fwell fet in fhore, which is principally compofed of fleep black rocks, againft which the furf beats with much violence. Here and there are fine little fpots of white fandy beach, where the natives generally keep their canoes. The adjacent country is very pleafant, and there appeared to be feveral villages fituated amidft fine groves of cocoa-nut trees. ■ U As m vm M il m mm I m 11 146 CHAP. Vil. 178g. "November. Friday 17. A VOYAGE TO T H E As we run along with a gentle breeze within mufquet- fliot of the fhore, the natives of both fexes were affembled on the beach in great numbers, waving pieces of their white cloth as a token of peace and friendfhip. Expecting to find good fkèlter in a bay fituated on the Weft fide of-'-the-ift and5'' and near a diftrict called by the natives Toeyayaa, at eight o'clock I fent the- whale-boat to found, and look for a harbour. In the„mean time, we Hood off and on under an eafy fail, which gave the natives an opportunity of bringing us the different produce of their ifland, which they prefently did in great abundance ; fuch as ftbgs, plantains, bread-fruit, taro, cocoa nuts, fowls, geefe of a wild fpecies, arid great quantities of excellent fait: for thefe articles we bartered with nails, towes*, and trinkets of different kinds ; and fo bri& a trade went forward, that'r in the Courfe of four hours we pur- chafed large hogs fufUcient, when faiteed, to fill feven tierces, befides vafl numbers of a fmaller fort for daily confumption. Near two tons of vegetables, fuch as taro and Thread-fruit, were alfo j^ocured; and fo amply did the natives fupply us with thofe very ufeful arttt&les, that we were obliged to turn vafl quantities away for want of rcom to put them in. Indeed, it would not have been proper to purchafe more of thofe kinds of vegetables' than what would be fufficient for fix or feven days confumption ; for after that time they begin to decay very faft. We alfo got about one ton and a half of fine fait, and I immediately fet twenty hands to kill and fait pork. The Indians during the whole day traded very fairly; but fome of the fpectators, of whom we had great numbers of both fexes, fhewed their ufual inclination for thieving ; rata M 7 C H A P. VU. 1786?*" November. Friday 17. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. thieving; and one man had dexterity enough in his pro- feffion to ileal a boat-hook out of a boat along-fide, though there was a boat-keeper in her, and another crept up the rudder chains, and flole the azimuth compafs out of one of the cabin windows, and got clear off with it, notwith- flanding a perfon was fet to look after them over the flern. Many other trifling articles were flole from us in the courfe of the day; which is fcarcely to be wondered at, as I do not think we had lefs than 250 canoes abosfc the fhip at once, which certainly contained more than 1000 people. When our trade was over, the natives entreated us to flay near the land, and in the morning they would bring us abundance of fine hogs'. On my making them this promife, they parted with us in the moft friendly manner, and paddled on fhore. At five o'cllock the boat returned, and the officer who was in her informed me, that in rowing into the bay which he had been to examine, he carried foundings from twenty to twenty-five fathoms water over a bottom of coral and fand, but that he could find no good anchorage or fhelter for the fhips : in confequence of which infornnk ation I gave up the intention of proceeding further into the bay, and determined to ftand off and on a day or two near our prefent fituation, to procure a quantity of good hogs to fait for fea flock. We tacked occafionally during the night, and at eight o'clock in the morning of the 18th Saturday || the North point of Owhyhee bore Eaft by South four leagues, and the extremes of Mowee North by Weft, and North Weft by Weft, eight or nine leagues diftant. With a light variable breeze we fleered South Eaft towards Owhy- U 2 hee, 'liirt illi HAP. VII. 1786. November. Saturday 18. 148 AVOYAGETOTHE hee, and by noon were within three miles of the fhore. Many of our yefterday's vifiters now came along-fide, bringing a number of fine hogs and plenty of vegetables, which we procured on the ufual terms. At four o'clock it began to blow frefh from the South South Weft ; and the natives having difpofed of their cargoes, left the fhips and went on fhore. At fix o'clock the North point of Owhyhee bore Eaff by South, and our diftance from the neareft land four leagues. During the night we had light variable airs, and frequently calm, attended with ftrong lightning to the Weftward. Sunday 19. In the forenoon of the 19th I went in my whale-boat on board the Queen Charlotte, to confiait captain Dixon refpecting our future proceedings. By this time we had purchafed all the large hogs the natives had brought along- fide, and probably pretty well drained this part of Owhyhee. The fhips were very light, having fuch a quantity of water expended, and our rigging fore and aft ftood much in need of repairing and overhauling ; fo that we thought it prudent to quit our prefent fituation and proceed for King George's Bay, Woahoo, where we could lie well fheltered from the prevailing winds, and do every thing neceffary both to the hulls and rigging of the fhips : accordingly, at half paft ten o'clock, with a light breeze at South South Weft, and very dirty unfettled-looking weather, we bore away to the Northward, intending to pafs to the Eaftward of Mowee, and then to run down for Woahoo. Towards noon the wind began to blow frefh from the Weft $outh Weft ; and a few canoes which were along- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. along-fide left us and paddled for the fhore. The extremes of Mowee in fight, bore North by Weft half Weft, and Weft by North, diftant four or five leagues. At two o'clock we had a frefh gale from the South Weft, on which I returned on board my own fhip. The gale increafing, we clofe-reefed the topfails, and got down the topgallant yards. Being then within two leagues of Mowee, with the appearance of very bad weather, we edged off to the North Eaft, in order to get a good offing before night came on. A little before dark we faw a canoe to the South Weft making after us, with a fmall mat up for a fail, and alfo paddling very hard : on this we brought to and picked her up. There were four men in the canoe, befides a quantity of provifions; fuch as potatoes, plantains, &c. It feems they belonged to the ifland of Mowee ; and on our Handing in for the Eafl part of it, had put off with their little cargo, hoping to bring it to a good market ; but after we bore away from the ifland, they found the weather fo bad, with a ftrong wind directly againft them, that they could not reach the fhore ; therefore bore up after us, fet their little fail, and ufed every effort in their power to get up with the fhip. I was greatly pleafed that we were fortunate enough to get fight of them ; for they muft certainly have very foon perifhed, their canoe when they came along-fide being almoft full of water, and themfelves fo much fpent with fatigue, that we were obliged to help them up the fhip's fide. We got all their things fafe into the fliip, hauled the canoe in upon deck, and made ufe of every method in our power to recover them, which had the wifhed-for 4 good 149 CHAP. VII. 1786. November. Sunday 19. wm TO THE good effect ; and never were men more grateful than thefe poor Indians for the little favours we were fo happy in fhewing them. When the canoe was got on board, we edged, away again to the Eaftward, and at feven o'clock hauled to the wind on the flarboard tack, it then blowing ftrong from the South Weft, with thick rainy weather. Monday 20. During the night we lay-to, and at four the next morning, having a frefh breeze at South South Weft, and clear weather, we wore and ftood to the Weftward. At noon 'the South part of Mowee bore South half Weft, and the North point Weft, fix leagues diftant, the latitude by obfervation 200 58'. Light variable winds, chiefly in the Weftern board, with alternate calms, continued during the afternoon and night. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 21ft we faw the ifland of Morotoi, the extremes bearing Weft by South half South, and South Weft by Weft, diftant eight or nine leagues ; the ifland Ranai alfo made its appearance, bearing from South Wefl by South to South Weft half Weft, diftant at leaft ten leagues ; and Mowee about nine leagues diftant. At two o'clock, being within three leagues of Mowee, we tacked and ftood -to the North North Eaft with a moderate breeze from the North Weft • at that time the extremes of the ifland bore South Eafl and Weft by South. The weather being very unfettled, wednef. 22. no canoes ventured near us, but towards noon on the 2 2d, having NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. »5* p. having light winds and clear weather, a number of large c f|j and fmall canoes from Mowee and Morotoi came along- '—~> fide with the various produce of thofe iflands, which November. confifted chiefly of a few fmall pigs, fome fweet potatoes, Wedncf*22' and fugar-cane. At one o'clock, finding that a ftrong current was drawing us in very fail between the Weft end of Mowee and the Eaft end of Morotoi, we hauled off to the North by Weft with a very light breeze from the Eaft North Eaft. At four o'clock, having drawn a little out, and got clear of the current, which fets ftrong to the Southward between -the iflands, we edged away to the North North Weft, the wfêad then blowing a light breeze from the Eaft South Eaft. Towards funfet our vifiters, after difpofing of their cargoes, took leave of us in a very friendly manner, and pu fried for the fhore. The extremes of Mowee at that time bore from South Weft to South Eaft by Eaft, four leagues ; and the extremes of Morotoi Weft half Soutli and Weft South Weft half South, five leagues diflant. In the afternoon of the 23d, it then being nearly calm, Thurfday 23, with clear pleafant weather, the Indians that we picked up off the Eaft end of Mowee, took this opportunity of going on fhore. I endeavoured to prevail on them to flay on board until the morning, that I might have an opportunity of Handing clofe in fhore, when they might have gone with greater fafety ; but they chofe to go away at this time, and made light of the diflance to the fhore, though it was not lefs than five leagues. Thefe poor fellows did not go away empty-handed; for befides the prefents they 6 had. 1 iiiiJm 'Il u Hi ii i52 AVOYAGETOTHE C virA P* ^ac^ &om me> a^mo^ every perfon on board gave fhem «-—§*—j fome little token of friendfhip ; fo that their misfortune November, turned out to great advantage. The wind Hill kept to the Southward, with unfettled Friday 24. weather. At noon on the 24th the Eafl point of Mowee South by Eafl half Eafl, and the Weflernmofl part in fight South South Wefl half Wefl, diflant ten leagues. I already have obferved that it was our intention on leaving Owhyhee to proceed immediately down for King George's Bay,, Woahoo, and there to have done the neceflary work of the fhips as quick as poffible ; but on getting to the Northward of Mowee, I found the wind hang much to the Southward and Weflward, and the weather very unfettled. The wind from thofe points blows directly into King George's Bay ; fo that I judged it the fafeft method to keep the fea to windward of the ifland until a true trade-wind fet in with fettled weather, and then- pufh into the bay, which is exceedingly well fheltered againfl the winds from Wefl by South, around by the North, to about Eafl ; but quite expofed to the other winds, which feem to prevail a good deal at this time of the year. Accordingly we plied with variable winds till Thurfday 30. the morning of the 30th, without any material occurrence ; at that time the wind feeming fixed to the Northward and Eaftward, and the weather more fettled than it had been for many days paft, we bore away for Woahoo ; rthe South point of which at noon bore South Weft by Weft, fix leagues, and the North point Weft by North, diftanjt from the neareft of the iflands eight miles. At four It III NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. *53 four o'clock we hauled round Dick's Point, and at five c ^nA p* came to anchor in King George's Bay with the beft *—M—» bower in twelve fathoms water, over a bottom of grey -November. fand intermixed with fmall red fpecks, and moored win hurfda^°» the ftream-anchor in eleven fathoms. When moored, Point Dick bore Eaft half South, one mile and a half ; Point Rofe Weft by South, fix miles ; and the bottom of the bay North Weft half North, two miles diftant. i'M X:: VOYAGE TO THE CHAP. VIII. Vifited by Taheeterre.—Pernicious Effects of ¥ava-root.-—~ TranfaElions at Woahoo.—Wood purchafed.—An Eatooa ereSled.—The Chiefs make Offerings to their Gods.— Meditate an Attack on the Ship.—Shewn the EffeEl of Fire-arms.—Two Indians embark for Atowi.—Take leave of Taheeterre.—Of an old Prieft.—Departure from Woahoo.—Anchor in Wyrnoa Bay, Atowi.—An Excurfion on Shore. FEW canoes came along-fide foon after our arrival in the bay, but they brought fcarcely any thing to November, fell ;- indeed there feem to be but few inhabitants in this Thurfday jo. D^yy ancj thofe few are of no great confequence. I gave them to underftand that we wanted water, and directed them to bring it to us, as they formerly had done : they would willingly have complied with my requeft, on account of the nails and beads which they were to have in exchange ; but affured më that not only water, but every thing the ifland produced, was tabooed by the king's order. ||| Finding things in this fituation, I gave to a man, who appeared of the moft confequence amongft our prefent vifiters, a prefent for the king and another for my old acquaintance the prieft, requeuing him at the fame time to inform his majefty that we wanted water and fuch refrefh- NORTH WEST COAST OFAMERICA. *SS refrefnments as the ifland afforded ; and therefore I fhould c ** £ p. be glad if he would immediately take off the taboo, that we might obtain a fupply of thofe articles. At funfet the November. natives,, at my requeft, left the fhip and went on fhore. Thl*fday3°. Early the next morning we had fome canoes along-fide, December, who brought us water and a few vegetables, notwithfland- Fnday I ing the taboo. A number of large and fmall canoes came round Point. Dick into the bay, and landed at the head of it ; prefently afterwards my old friend the prieft paid us a vifit, and came, according to his former cuftom, in a large double canoe, decorated with branches of the cocoanut- tree. After paddling round the fhip with great folemnity, and running down every fmall canoe that came in his way, he came along-fide ; but before he entered the fhip he enquired for me. On my appearing at the fhip's fide to receive him, he handed up a fmall pig, which at his coming on board he prefented to me, as a token of peace and friendfhip. Indeed I have before obferved this to be the ufual practice at all the iflands. The old man informed me, that in a fhort -time the king (who had juft arrived in the bay with a large fleet of canoes) would be on board to pay me a vifit, and that when he returned again on fhore the taboo would be taken off, and. the natives at liberty to bring us every thing the ifland: afforded. I made him a prefent, and alfo gave him one for the king, which I defired he would carry on fhore- and deliver with his own hand. The prieft left us about ten o'clock, and returned again at eleven in his own- canoe, accompanied by many others both large and fmall. Ina very large canoe, paddled by fixteen flout men, was-: X 2 the ni mm : I T H E the king himfelf, attended by many of the principal chiefs* When his canoe approached near the fhip, all the reft paddled off to fome diftance, to make way for his majefty ; who, after paddling three times round the fhip in great ftate, came on board without the leaft appearance of fear, and would not fuffer any of his retinue to follow him till he had got permiffion for their admittance, which I gave to eight or ten of the principal chiefs. The king brought me a few hogs and fome vegetables by way of prefent; for which I made him a return that feemed to pleafe him highly : moft of his attendants likewife brought a few o j ■ o articles, which I received, and gave them in exchange fuch trifles as feemed to take their fancy, being defirous to eflablifh myfelf on a friendly footing at this ifland, that our bufinefs; might go regularly forward, and our wants be expeditioufly' fuppHed. The king (whofe name I before have obferved is Taheeterre) is an exceedingly flout well-made man about fifty years old, and appears to be fenfible, well difpofed, and much efleemed by his fubjects. fie inquired whether we had been at Owhyhee ; and on imy anfwering him in the affirmative, he was very defirous of learning fome particulars reflecting that ifland and the king, with whom he feems to be at variance. But I could give him no other information than that the king was in good health, and that the ifland was in.a very flourifhing condition when we left it. Taheeterre remained on board the greater! pa*fc*6f the -day, and gave directions to the natives to briâ^pus plenty of water, and every thing elfe that the ifland prèihiced. Towards chap. VIII. 1786. December. Friday ï. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Towards evening he returned on fhore, perfectly fatisfied with his reception and, the prefents I had given him ; and at fiinfet all the canoes left the fhips. We foon begun to feel the good effects of Taheeterre&t vifit ; the natives, now no longer under the influence of the taboo, brought us water very plentifully, and we procured a good fupply of hogs and vegetables ; fo that I fet a party 'to fait pork for fea-ftore ; the boatfwain and another fet were employed about the rigging, and tfee. carpenters in decking the long-boat. On the 3d Taheeterre pajd me another vifit attended as Sunday $^ before, and brought ruVi cuftomary prefent of a few hogs, vegetables, and cocoa-nuisu Great numbers of canoes were about the fhip, and multitudes of both fexes playing in the water, notwithftanding our diftance from the fhore. My friend the old prieft was almoft conflantly on board, and, according to his ufual cuftom, drank vaft quarfliciei of yava, which kept him in a moft wretched condition ; he feemed quite debilitated, and his body was entirely covered with a kind of leprous fcurf. The old man had generally two attendants on board to chew the yava root for him, and lie found them fo much employment that their jaws were frequently tired, and he was obliged to hire fome of the people along-fide to chew for him at a bead for a mouthful. One of the yava-chewers, a very intelligent man, informed me, that to the Weftward of Point Rofe, in Queen Charlotte's Bay, there was an exceedingly fnug harbour, where the fhips might lie with fafety. As we had a heavy fwell fetting into the bay round Point *ST N\ fil I m I 11 ill ï58 A V O y A U E T O T H E C vin P° P°int ^ck? vvhich caufed the fhip to roll very much, ï determined, as, foon as the carpenter had finifhed the longboat, to fend her down to examine it ; and if it was found a fafe fituation, to remove the fhips thjther. The diftrict near whisfeb the harlbur lies is (as I underflood) called by the natives Whyteetee ; and the \ yava-chewer, whofe name is Towanooha, and who I found was a man of confiderable property on the ifland, offered to go in the boat when fhe was ready, and direct them to the place ; which, offer I readijky accepted. We were favoured with another vifit from his majefty on the 4th, and in addition to his; ufual prefent, he brought a large quantity of very finet/mullet, winch he told muà were caught in a fmall fait lake at the head of the bayv He frequently ate with us, but I never could perfuade him to touch either wine or fpirits, nor did he ever ufe the yava, but always drunk water. He feémed greatly delighted with the attention paid to him ; indeed his vifits were by no means unacceptable ; for he not only encouraged the natives to fupply us freely with water and other neceffaries, but at the fame time kept them in good order ; fo that we were not in the leaft ^incommoded by the multitudes that were conftantly about us. This afternoon our water was completed, having, in the fpace of three days, filled forty butts, befides a number of puncheons aria- brandy pieces ; fo eagerly did the natives purfue this profitable traffic. We now begun to be in want of fuel, as a great deal was expended in heating water to fcald hogs and various 8 other É m NORTH WrEST -COAST OF AMERICA. *.5ft .other purpofes. n0n fignifying our wants to the natives, c ËJ| p* they biough$: us a plentiful fupply of excellent firewood, |-—P^ which we purchafed for nails and buttons. Decem&er. In the forenoon of the 5JI1, the carpenters having TaefdayS. finifhed decking the long-boat, fhe was hoifted out, and fome hands employed in rigging and getting Her ready to go down to Queen Charlotte's Bay. Numbers of fharks were about the fhip, four or five of which we caught, and after taking out-the livers they were given to the Indians, who thought them very acceptable prefents, particularly the old prieft, who got two of the largefl, and having ordered them to be carefully lafhed in his canoe, was going to fend them on fhore^.' On this occafion a very remarkable circumftance happened ; juft as the priefl's canoe got a-flern of the fhip, one of the fharks not being fecurely faftened, fell out of the canoe, and funk to the bottom in eleven fathoms water ; at the fame time there were feveral large hungry ones fwimming about, yet an Indian went down with a rope, flung the dead fhark, and afterwards hauled him into his canoe, without any apparent fear of the others that furrounded him. I found that fharks were efleemed valuable, as thev anfwer a variety of purpofes ; they fait the fhark, and feem very fond of it, the fkin ferves for a cover to their drum-heads, and the teeth they fix in wooden inflruments which they ufe as knives. The natives continued to bring us wood, hogs,, and vegetables, and vafl numbers vifited the fhips to gratify their curiofity : thofe who had no canoes would fwim from the K *$$ iii il 160 chap. A VOYAGE TO THE 1 the fhore, though nearly two miles diftant, and after ftay- «-—v-^-' ing all day in the water, fwim away for the fhore with as December, much compofitrê as if they had only a few yards to go. «Thurfday 7. Monday 11. From the 7 th. to the nth we had frefh gâaes from the North Eaft and Eaft North Eaft, with frequent fqualls' and unfettled weather. A heavy fwell fet into the bay from thq> South Eaft, which made the fhip roll very deep. During this interval, the furf running very high on the beach, few canoes ventured off, and fome that attempted it were overfet fo often that they gave up their defign ; two or three canoes however got along-fide in the afternoon of the 9th, with a little wood and fome bread-fruit, which we purchafed; and I made them fome prefents in addition, as a reward for their venturing off at fb much rifle.. After difpofing of their little cargoes they made for the fhore ; "but not being able to land, were glad to return to the fhip again, and take up their lodgings on board for the night. The old nrieft was almoft a confiant vifiter : fometimes indeed he would go on fhore under the pretence of paying a morning vifit to his majefty ; but I fcorr found that his principal motive was to replenifh his flock of yava, of which (as has/already been obferved) he cenfumed a great quantity,. By this time the long-boat was completed, and at eight ^uefdayiz, o'clock in the morning-of th^ 12th, the weather being moderate, X fent her under the direction of Mr. Hayward to. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA to Queen Charlotte's Bay, to look at the harbour fo much c 1 tfpoken of by the natives, and Towanooha, the yava- chewer, accompanied him as a pilot. Taheeterre paid me a vifit this forenoon, and the furf on the fhore ftill running very high, he came off in a fingle canoe, it being much fafer in the furf than a double one. The king made ufe of a paddle himfelf, and when he came near the fhip, obferving her to roll very deep, he would not venture his canoe near her, but jumped into the water and fwam along-fide ; we gave him a rope by which he got on board, but the motion of the fhip disagreeing with him, he took leave of me in a very fhort time, jumped over-board, got into his canoe, and paddled for the fhore. My friend the prieft now grew very reftlefs and uneafy ; on my enquiring the reafon, he hinted that Taheeterre and his principal warriors were meditating fome mifchief «againft us, and taking me upon deck, he pointed to a large houfe on the top of a hill over the Eaftern point of the bay which afcends from Point Dick : this houfe the old man allured me was building for an Eatooa, or God's houfe, wherein they were going to make great offerings to their different Eatooas (for almoft every chief has his feparate one), and to confult them on the event of an attack, which he allured me they intended to make on us if their oracles gave them encouragement. He appeared quite difpleafed with the king's conduct on this occafion, and defired we would be conftantly on our guard againft him. Y Though ï6ï A P. VIII. 1786. December. Tuefday izè ill lit l'lui! \i I ill 1 |u ffliff iliii IK 162 CHAP. VIII. V. u / 178$. December. Tuefday iz. Thurfday 14. A VOYAGE TO THE Though this piece of information feemed rather improbable, yet I thought it prudent to be on our guard to prevent a furprife, and at the fame time I ordered a confiant watch to be kept on the cables, to prevent their being cut by the natives. I had obferved the natives building this houfe a day or two before the prieft pointed it out to me, and had feen people conftantly going up towards it loaded, probably with offerings to their different deities. Towards noon I could fee, with the help of a glafs, that the houfe was nearly finifhed, and the natives were covering it with red cloth. As I had conftantly treated the king and his attendants with great kindnefs and attention, I could fcarcely give any credit to the old prieft ; although the hopes of pof- feffing all the iron they might fuppofe we had on board might poffibly tempt them to attack us : at any rate, ï determined to admit Taheeterre on board as ufual whenever he came, and to regulate my conduct by his behaviour. In the evening the prieft left us and went on fhore, promifing to return the next day. On the 14th in the morning a vafl number of canoes came to the fhips, chiefly loaded with fire-wood; what hogs and vegetables we now procured being fcarcely more than fufficient for a daily fupply. Towards noon the king came off in a large double canoe, attended by a number of his principal chiefs, all of whom I admitted on board, and 1 o treated Jl NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 16 treated with the ufual freedom, but was well prepared for c WJÊ p* an attack if they had attempted it ; having all the loop- j— ■» holes in the combings of the hatches fore and aft opened, and December. twelve or fifteen ftand of arms below under, the direction of Thurfda>"+- proper people, who very foon would have cleared the decks if the Indians had offered us any violence ; befides which, I had centinels placed in different parts of the fhip, and all our great guns and fwivels were pointed into the canoes along-fide, with lighted matches at hand. Taheeterre could not help obferving our fituation, and fpoke of it to his attendants ; notwithflanding which, he behaved in his ufual manner. After being on board fome time, he was very defirous to fee the effects of our fire-arms, which I fhewed him, by difcharging a piftol loaded with ball at a hog that ftood at fome diftance, and killed it on the fpot. The king- and his attendants were flartled at the report of the piftol ; but when they faw the hog lie dead, and the blood running from the wound, they were both furprifed and terrified ; and I have not the leaf! doubt but this inftance of the fatal effects of our fire-arms made a deep impreffion on their: feelings, and prevented them from attacking us. The king ftaid on board near two hours, and after receiving a fmall prefent took his leave ; informing me at the fame time, that he intended to leave the bay, and return to his refidence at Whyteetee in the evening. I could not help remarking, that immediately after Taheeterre left the fhip, all the canoes left us and paddled to the fhore in different parts of the bay, but the greateft number of them landed in the Eaftern part of it, where the king had- a temporary refidence. Y 2 )00N ifm I ma* 11 i II IN iPffll illIIR M III 11 î C H A F. VIII. Ki n , i „_» 1786. December. Thurfday 14. 564 A VOYAGE TO THE Soon afterwards the old prieft came on board, not in a large double canoe as ufual, but in a fmall old crazy one that would fcarcely fwim, and appeared as if he had come off by Health. The moment the old man got upon deck he began to tell me that the king was a great rafcal, per- fifted in his former ffory, and begged me to watch him narrowly. After haranguing for a fhort time, lie left me and went on board the Queen Charlotte, where Ke fpent the remainder of the day. By this time our wooding bufinefs was completed, having purchafed a quantity fufficient for at leaft fix months confumption. fàday 15. Next morning at eight o'clock the long-boat came along-fide, and Mr. Hay ward informed me, that on going down to the place where his guide conducted him in Queen Charlotte's Bay, he found a fmall bay with very deep water, clofe to a fandy beach, where the natives, generally landed with their canoes, but no place for a fhip to ride in with fafety ; adjoining to the beach, in a beautiful valley, furrounded by fine groves of cocoanut- trees and a delightful country, there was a large town, where (as Towanooha informed ham) the king generally refided,. and the diflrict: round it was called Whyteetee.. According to Mr. Hay ward's account* there were very few canoes in the bay ; neither did he fee any great number of inhabitants ; fb that we may reafonably fuppofe they were come into the bay where we lay, led either by bufinefs or curiofity. Not a fiigle native came near the fhip» for two day% said their canoes* were hauled, out of fight, but we could perceive vaft numbers of the inhabitants about the houfe on 4 1; NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 16s on the hill. During this time our people were bufily c yHA p* employed about the rigging, and getting the fhip ready for fea. 1786. December, At daylight in the morning of the 17th the old prieft, Sunday iT. attended by his yava-chewer Towanooha, came on board. The old man feemed quite enraged at the king's recent conduct; he told me that the king and all his principal chiefs had been making offerings to their gods, and con- fulting them ; but that the gods were good for nothing, and that the king and his adherents were no better than villains, for intending to do us any mifchief, after the many prefents they had received from both fhips. I thanked my old friend for his intelligence, and told him that we fhould be conftantly on our guard.. For fome days paft I had been ftrongly importuned bys. Towanooha, and a very fine young man of the firft confer qpaence in the ifland, who was a confiant companion of the king's, to take them along with me to Atoui ; and indeed Taheeterre had more than once urged me to take them ; but I never thought they were in earneft until this forenoon, wisen the young chief, whofe name is Paapaaa, came on board, and joined his entreaties with thofe of Towanooha hvfo very prefling a manner, that I promifed to take them on board ; and they returned on fhore in order to prepare themfelves for the paffage. The yava-chewer, being now as it were. a. gentleman paffenger, no longer confidered himfelf as a fervant, but took to drinking yava*:- heartily, and laid in a. plentiful flock of. that root, •IN VOYAGE TO THE In the afternoon we had a frefh gale from the Eaft North Eaft, with frequent fqualls, which prevented any canoes coming near us. Towards evening I obferved the natives uncovering and pulling to pieces their new- built houfe on the hill ; and about ei^it o'clock feveral large houfes were on fire along fhore near the bay ; but as we had no Indians on board, I could not learn whether they were fet on fire by accident or defign, till the next morning, when the old prieft and our two paffengers coming on board, I enquired the reafon of the fires we had feen on fhore the preceding evening ; and was given to underftand, that they were Eatooa's, or houfes belonging to gods with whom the chiefs were difpleafed ; therefore out of revenge they had burnt gods and houfes both together. In the forenoon a great number of large and fmall canoes came off and brought us a tolerable fupply of various forts of vegetables and a few hogs. Since our water was completed, having expended feveral cafks, I directed the natives to bring us a further fupply, which they very foon did in great abundance. The king alfo, with his retinue, paid me a vifit ; at his firft coming on board he feemed rather fhy, but upon the whole he conducted himfelf nearly in his ufual manner. On my taking notice of the red houfe on the hill he appeared a good deal confufed, and waving that converfation, begun to talk about his two county men who were going with me to AtouJ>n He feemed very much interefted in Paapaaa's welfare; he particularly requefted me to take care of him and treat him, well, and if we flopped at Atoui, he begged that I would leave him under the care of Taaao, who it feems is brother to Taheeterre, and a relation of Paapaaa's. The two paffengers ■j&j&y afked iff NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 167 cafked - mexfor a few trifles to leave amongft their friends c ynA Pt before thejrafet off, wliich I readily gave, and alfo made Nj—ffif the king a prefent ; on which he took leave of me for the December. laft tinfe^.Gan"dtaFter taking a very affecting one of his coun- Monda^18, trymen^paijreArly of Paapaaa, he quitted the fhïpand went on fhore;-the other canoes? remained! along-fide to difpofe of their cargoes, and we procured a fupply of good hogs, which enabled me to fet the falters to work again. In the afternoon the rigging was fet up, the fails bent, and every thing ready.for fea. a^-cfS In the night the Queen Charlotte parted her bower- cable and brought up with the other bower. I fent a boat the next morning to aflift them in creeping for the Tuefdayip. end of their cable, which was fortunately hooked in a fhort time, and the anchor was recovered before noon. nG 11 examining the cable, fome were of opinion that it had been cut by the natives, and it certainly bore that appearance a good deal. At four o'clock we began to unmoor, as I popofed getting to fea with the breeze that ufually blows out of the bay in the night, but in a fhort time we found the flream-cable gone about three fathoms from the haufe ; as we lay in ten fathoms water, this part could never have been at the ground, and we never had rode the leaft ftrain by it ; fo that I was convinced it muft have been cut by the Indians. We had a buoy on the anchor ; therefore . I fent the long-boat to weigh it, and we begun to heave a-head on the beft bower : juft as we had got a flay-peak the befl bower alfo parted four fathoms from the anchor ; on 31 I'Rn 168 A V O Y A G E T O THE C vm ?' on ^is we immediately let go the fmall bower, anil u.—^—> brought up for the night. The Queen Charlotte iiaving December, weighed,.and Handing out of the bay, we made the fignàl to anchor, on which fhe ftretched ihrthe b^ and came- wednef. zo. to clofe by us. At daylight the next morning we warped to the buoy of the befl bower, and weighed the anchor, and at the fame time weighed the fmall bower and got under fail with alight breeze from the North. Eaft. The old prieft was ftill on board along with my new paffengers, and we were followed by feveral canoes ; ,but towards noon the friendly old man took his leave, and I made him a prefent, with which he was highly pleafed.; he then went on board the Queen Charlotte, to take leave of captain Dixon, and foon afterwards left thedhips, accompanied by the other canoes, and paddled for the fhore. At noon the extremes of Woahoo bore Weft by North half North, and North Eaft half North, diftant from the ^nearer! part of the ifland about three leagues. On getting in the bower-cable that had parted, we found it a good deal rubbed by the.coral fand, of which the bottom, where we anchored is chiefly compofed ; and on examining the place where it parted, I was of opinion that it had been cut with a knife, until the cable was opened, when I found all the yarns cut in the fame manner, and no doubt by rubbing on the coral fand. The feeft fituation for anchoring in King George's Bay is near the middle of it, and about a mile from the reef; -where there are fix and feven fathoms water, over a bottom of dark fand entirely free from coral | but as the inconvenience OH ■Nf aim NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. t6g nience of our fituation was not difcovered till we were c y*nA p- leaving the place, we had no opportunity of changing it «——w for a more eligible one. December. Wednef. zo. We ftood to the South Weft with a light Eafterly breeze till night, when it grew nearly calm, and next morn- Thurfdayzi. ing the wind hauled to the Northward and Weftward. At noon the extremes of Woahoo bore from North by Weft half Weft to North Eaft three quarters Eaft, fix leagues diftant. The wind frefhened during the night, and at eight o'clock next morning blew a ftrong gale at Friday 22. North North Eaft, with dark rainy weather/ Soon afterwards the ifland of Atoui made its appearance, bearing North Weft by Weft, feven or eight leagues diftant. Towards noon the weather grew more moderate ; and being then within feven miles of Atoui, we ftood on for Wyrnoa Bay, and at two o'clock anchored in thirty-five fathoms water, over a bottom of fine black and grey fand. As I knew the bank to be very fleep, and the wind blowing frefh, I was afraid our anchor would flart off; to prevent which we wore away to a cable and a half, and then the fhip lay in forty-eight fathoms water over the fame bottom ; one cable's length aftern there was one hundred fathoms, and a little further we found no ground with the deep fea line. Soon afterwards the Queen Charlotte let go her anchor a little within the King George, but by checking the cable too foon, fhe dragged it off the bank and could not get it to catch again with a whole cable out; therefore got her head off fhore, hove their anchor up, .and made fail; but finding they could not get up to us before night came on, they ftretched well in, and anchored about a mile and a half to the Weflward of the village Z of II 'fC^ il 1 il I tm.\ 170 CHAP. VIII. 1786. December. Frïday zz. A VOYAGE TO THE of Wyrnoa and a frefh-water river, and oppofite a large grove of cocoanut-trees that lie near >the Weftern point of the bay. The King George lay to the Eaflward of Wyrnoa ; that town and the river bearing North by Wefl, the Eafl point of the bay bore Eafl by South a quarter South, and the Wefl point North Wefl by Wefl half Wefl, our dif- t#Ace from the neàrefl fhore about two miles. Several canoes came off foon after out arrival, bringing abundance of fine taro. I enquired for the king and my old friend Abbenooe, and was informed that they, together with mofl of the principal chiefs belonging to the Ifland, were at Apoonoo, a town fituated towards the North Eafl part of the ifland, where the king ufually refides ; but the natives told me the king and his retinue would fhortly be down at Wyrnoa. I defired the natives to bring a fupply of hogs, which they promifed to do on the morrow ; and indeed I had no reafon to complain of Saturday 23. their want of punctuality ; for at daylight $he next morning we were furrounded by canoes, which brought a number of very fine hogs for faking, and great plenty of taro, fweet potatoes, cocoa-nuts, and fugar-cane ; and on my afking for water, they prefently got into the method of fupplying us, and brought off great plenty of excellent water. Sunday24. Next morning at eight o'clock I Went on fhore to Wymoa, accompanied by my two paffengers and one of the failors, with an intention of walking round the Weflern point of the ifland, in hopes of finding a well- fheltered NORfH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. fheltered bay for the fhips to ride in. After getting on fhore, I was received by a vafl multitude of the inhabitants! in the mofl friendly manner, and prefently we were joined by a few people of fome confequence, who offered to accompany us in our walk, which I readily accepted, and found them of great ferviçe in keeping the crowd at a diftance, though they did not gather round us with a mifehievous intention, but on the contrary, to render us any little fervice in their power. After walking two or thjree miles along the fhore, we fat down to take a little refrefhment. During our fhort repafl, a chief named Tiaana (who I underflood was brother to the king) joined us, and preffed me very much to walk back to Wymoa and eat with him there. As I was very anxious to find out a good bay for the fhips, I declined this friendly requeft, but promifed to call on him at my return, on which he toak his leave with many profeffions. of friendfliip, and we continued bur walk along fhore. ï?1 c h a p. VIII. 1786. De ce m bet. Sunday 24. By three o'clock we got to the North WefT point of the ifland, and I found all that part of the coafl open and expofed, with a very heavy furf rolling in on the beaches. Being difappointed in my fearch for a harbour, I begun to think of returning on board ; but after we had walked four or five miles, I found it would be impracticable for us to reach Wymoa before night came on ; at this time we were not far from a comfortable houfe belonging to Abbenooe ; therefore I determined to take up my lodging in it for the night, and my companions were glad to embrace the riame opportunity, as they were greatly fatigued with their walk. We arrived at the houfe about funfet, and one of Abbenooe's men, who had joined us in the Z 2 courfe \\m m m II il mâÉ. m il Pi? ^■■H ■■■■■ : '1 life.' lis, 172 A VOYAGE TO THE chap. courfe of the afternoon,' gave directions for a hog and a VIII 1786. December Sunday 24. dog to be immediately killed and dreffed for our flappers, together with a large quantity of taro. The houfe was well lighted up with torches made of dry rufhes, and at eight o'clock fupper being ready, it was ferved up in great order, and I think few people ever ate a heartier fupper than we did. My friend's man acted as mafler of the ceremonies, and ferved the provifions to each perfon ; and after our feafl was ended, he ordered the remains to be taken care of, as he told me it was for us to eat before Monday 25. we fet out in the morning. We got up next morning at daylight, and finifhed the remains of the preceding evening's repafl. Previous to our quitting the houfe, there were near an hundred women about it, moft of them with children in their arms; they were very inquifitive to know my name, which they pronounced Po pote, and fuch of the infants as could fpeak were taught by their mothers to call on Po pote : on this I diftributed fome trifles amongft them, with which they appeared highly fatisfied. We walked towards Wymoa, and reached the fhore a-breaft of the Queen Charlotte about nine o'clock. I defired my companions to walk down to Wymoa; and being very anxious to get on board, I took a canoe and went on board the Queen Charlotte, where I found my own whale-boat, and got on board the King George towards noon. « During my abfence they had carried on a brifk trade for provifions, and I had the pleafure of feeing the decks, full of fine hogs for faking, 13 Being m 1:1 ^v NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Being now well affured that Atoui afforded noplace for the fhips to ride in equal to Wymoa Bay, I determined to keep our fituation a fhort time, for the purpofe of faking pork for fea-ftore., and afterwards to proceed to Oneehow for a fupply of yams, and to remain there till the proper feafon for the profecution of our voyage to the coaft. of America. *75 chap. VIH.> 1786. December. Monday 2.5, 1m ft ii •III M.O Y A G E TO T H E CHAP. IX. Variety of Refrefhments procured.—Vjkfited by the King.^m Prefents given and received.—Deplorable Situation of an old Warrior.—Ceremony of the Tabooara.—A remarkably large Shark caught.—Grateful Behaviour of Neeheowhooa.—Arrival at Oneehow.—Obliged to cut the Cables in a Gale of Wind.—Leave three Invalids on Shore.—Anchor again in Yam Bay.—The Sick return on board.—Leave Oneehow, and arrive at Atoui.—Remarkable Circumftance of a Woman with a Puppy at her Breaft.—Chiefs exercife with Spears.—Houfe built for Captain Portlock.—The Ships leave Atoui and arrive at Oneehow.—Recover the King George s Anchors.— Attempt on the Life of an Atoui Chief.—Departure from the Sandwich Iflands. h -A p- TN the morning of the 25th Tyaana, the chief whom I faw on fhore, came off in a large double canoe, and brought me a prefent of fome hogs and vegetables, which Monday 25. j received, and made him a return that pleafed him very much. He informed me that the king, accompanied by Abbenooe and a number of other principal chiefs, would be down in a. day or two, and in the mean time we fhould be plentifully fupplied with every thing the ifland produced. After many profeffions of friendfhip Tyaana took his leave and returned on fhore. Soon afterwards I fent the whale-boat on fhore to Wymoa for the failor I left 1 behind 1786. December NORTH WSST COAST OF AMERICA. *75 behind along with Pàapaaa and Towanoha ; my man re- c H a p. turned with the boat, but the other two chofe to remain «—ï—» on fhore a day or two amongft their new friends, and I December. underflood they were greatly careffed by the natives in Monday 2S* general. Besides hogs and vegetables, the natives brought bafs and grafs rope to barter, which we purchafed, as it was likely to prove ufeful for various pufpofes. The natives, finding we encouraged this traffic, were very bufy on fhore manufacturing rope, which they did very expeditioufly, and brought offwhole coils made of green rufhes and grafs; this we bought for the purpofe of rounding the cables,, and the bafs for running rigging. The natives continued to bring us an abundant fupply of fine hogs, fruit, and roots, and a large party were conftantly employed in killing and faking pork for fea- flore. In.the forenoon of the 28th we obferved a number Thurfday28. of canoes come round the Eaftern point of the bay, and foon afterwards my good friend Abbenooe came on board, but fo much reduced, and fo covered with a white fcurf, from the immoderate ufe of the yava, that I fcarcely knew him. He brought two canoes loaded with different kinds of provifions, as a prefent for the two fhips : after flaying a fhort time with me, he went on board the Queen Charlotte with the prefent he intended for captain Dixon ; and returning again in the evening, 3vith us. took up his lodgings ii On the 29th the wind blew very frefh from the Eaft Friday 29. North Eaft, with frequent heavy fqualls from the land, which Mil ■ïrf6' A VOYAGE TO THE CHAP IX. m 'Il H fJifift il» 1786 December which prevented the king from coming off to the fhips ; but the weather growing moderate towards night, Abbe^- nooe went on fhore early the next morning, and returned Saturday 30. || n^ne 0'c\oc^ jp company with Taaao and moft of the principal chiefs belonging to the ifland. His majefty brought me a very handfome prefent, confifling of hogs, taro, cocoa-nuts, and plantains, together with cloth, mats, and feveral elegant feathered cloaks ; all which he infilled on my receiving : accordingly they were got into the fhip, and I made him an ample return. Paapaaa and Towanoha being now on board, I took an opportunity of introducing them to the king, agreeably to Taheeterre's requeft : previous to this, I gave them a few trifling articles I which they prefented to him, and were received with great affability and kindnefs, and he affured me that they fhould be under his immediate protection. According to my expectation, I found that Abbenooe was a man highly efteemed by the king, who confulted him on every occafion, Taaao appears to be about forty-five years old, flout and well made, and feemed the beft difpofed man that we had met with amongft the iflands. He offered me his friendfhip in the moft earneft manner, and affured me that we fhould be well fupplied with every thing this and the adjacent iflands afforded : he requefted Abbenooe to remain on board, in order to prevent any difputes arifing between our people and the natives in the courfe of their traffic. The -ym.uumm- m m W&w n àm C! i R1 il NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. The king and his retinue flaid on board about two hours, and gratified their curiofity in looking at different parts of the fhip, which they feemed greatly to admire. After taking leave of me they went on board the Queen Charlotte, where they Hopped a fhort time, and then returned on fhore. Abbenooe attended his majefty to fee him fafely landed, and afterwards came on board for the night ; and as he conftantly took up his abode with us, I had ordered a cot to be hung for him in the cabin, which: pleafed him fo much that he never flept out of it. Vast numbers of canoes came off on the 31ft, bringing hogs and vegetables as ufual ; the king alfo paid nie a vifit, accompanied by an elderly man named Neeheowhooa, who I underflood was his uncle, and a perfon of the firfl confequence. This old chief has, it feems, in his time, been one of the greatefl warriors that Atoui, or any of the iflands could boafl of, and has been greatly inflrumental in fettling them under their prefent kings Taheeterre and Taaao; indeed his very appearance befpoke the hardy veteran ; his body was almoft covered with fears, and he was quite a cripple; and to add to his diflreffing fituation, he had entirely loft one eye, and the other was in a weak Hate, occafioned by fome wounds he lately had received in battle, and which were beyond their art to heal. Taaao appeared very unhappy on account of his uncle's fituation, and perhaps thinking that we could perform wonders, begged of us to cure him. I recommended him to the care of my furgeon, who wafhed his wounds, applied dreffings to them, and gave him fome frefh ones, which he was directed to make ufe of once a-day. Neeheowhooa feemed perfectly to underftand the furgeon's inftruc- A a tions, T77 C H A P. IX. December. Saturday 30. 1 il Sunday / 5' M Pf AGE TO THE p ha p. tionSj and promifed to follow them in the moft punctual manner. After remaining on board a few hours, Taaao and his uncle left us, highly pleafed with the treatment thev had received. The next morning fcarcely any canoes were to be feen, though the weather was very fine : on my afking Abbenooe the reafon, he told me they were detained on account of a tabooara being laid on by the king. The tabooara it feems is a kind of tax which the king impofes on the property of thofe fubjects whofe plantations are near at hand, and confifts of a certain portion of their various produce. At Abbenooe's requeft, I attended him on fhore to fee the ceremony, and indeed I could not but admire the order and regularity with which the natives conducted themfelves on this occafion : men, women, and even children, paid their contributions with cheerful- nefs and good-will ; fome brought hogs, others taro, bread-fruit, and indeed every thing the ifland produced!j all which were placed- in feparate heapsh Taaao and moft of the principal chiefs attended to fee" the tabooara punâually complied with, and when it was finifhed, the whole was divided into two parcels, which the king told me were a prefent for the two fhips, and defired me to fend boats on fhore to carry them off. I was greatly pleafed with the king's generous method of proceeding, and determined he fhould not be a lofer by his liberality, though I happened to have nothing on fhore that I thought a fbitable return for fo noble a prefent. After taking a very friendly leave of me, the king retired to a houfe fituated a little to the Eaftward of the river %' Bu i NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 179 river, where he refides when at this part of the ifland ; c B A p and I went off in the long-boat, accompanied by my s—-—« friend Abbenooe. Before night we had got the whole of juuiy, our prefent on board, and the tabooara being over, the Moad&yl' canoes came about the fhips as ufual. * Ig , On the 2d and 3d the wind blew very frefh at Eaft by Tuefday2. North, with frequent fqualls ; during which time we had Wednef-1 but little intercourfe with the natives, and our flock of vegetables was nearly expended : however, Abbenooe, ever anxious to fupply our wants, went on fhore to procure a fupply of hogs and roots, ready to come off when the weather grew moderate, and early in the morning of the 4 th he returned on board, and informed me that he had Thurfday-4. got a number of hogs and vegetables ready for us, The weather being now pretty moderate, I fent the long-boat on fhore at eight o'clock, and foon afterwards followed myfelf in the whale-boat, accompanied by Abbenooe. The fea being very finooth, we landed with the boat on a beach a-breaft of the village of Wymoa ; and whilfl the people were getting the hogs and other provifions into the long-boat, we walked two or three miles up a valley, which leads from Wymoa towards the mountains. This valley abounds with taro, which is planted in trenches that contain about ûx inches depth of water ; the taro-grounds are divided at convenient diftances by raifed foot-paths, which, as well as the trenches, are made of ftones in a very regular manner, and muft have coft the natives an infinite deal of time and trouble. Abbenooe conducted me to a large new houfe belonging to him, fituated at fome diftance up the valley, and very well built after their manner ; here we fat down a little while, and after taking A a 2 fome m m mr IK:'! IliiiilRj^ ïSo CHAP. IX. 1787. • Jaiiuary. Thurfday 4. A VOYAGE TO THE fome refrefhment, returned to Wymoa. By^this time they had got every thing into the long-boat, and we took a paffage in her on board. During my abfence they had purchafed a number of fine hogs, and great plenty of taro, potatoes, &c. fo that we again begun to kill and fait pork for fea-ftore. In the afternoon we caught a fhark, fo. very large that it was obliged to be hoifted out of the water with a tackle ; it meafured thirteen feet and a half in length, and eight feet and a half in circumference, and the liver fix feet; its mouth was fo large, that it admitted the head of a puncheon with eafe. On the fhark being opened, there were found forty-eight young ones in her, each about eight inches, long, two entire turtle weighing about fixty pounds each, befides feveral fmall pigs, and a large quantity of bones. The liver was kept for oil, and I gave the fifh to the natives, who feemed to regard it as an ineftimable treafure. Hi Ii Ml m lr II Fridays- Taaao paid me another vifit on the 5th, accompanied by his eldeft fon, named Taaevee, a very fine boy about twelve years of age. The king told me that he intended this as a farewel vifit, as he intended to return to Apoonoo- very fhortly,. but that Abbenooe' fhould remain on board and accompany us down to Oneehow, which ifland and its- produce he preffed me very much to accept of as a prefent, and defired Abbenooe to take care that, the natives fupplied us well with yams, without taking any thing in return ; but I begged (if he would not permit them to fell the produce of the ifland) that they might be fuffered to receive fomething for their trouble in digging and bringing; off NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. r8x ©fT the yams to us ; which at length he reluctantly af- c HIXA jg; fented to, and after receiving a prefent that feemed to '—y—' pleafe him highly, he took leave of me in the moff January. friendly manner, as did his fon and the attending chiefs j| " ay | to each of whom, on parting, I gave a fmall prefent, and they went on fhore with the greateft appearance, of fa~- tisfaction* Amongst the perfons of confequence who attended Taaao on his farewel vifit, was his uncle Neeheowhooa I his wounds were getting better, and he feemed quite at a lofs how to exprefs his gratitude and thankfulnefs ;. he begged permiffion to come on board every day to have them dreffed, and feemed to think they would foon be healed-. After attending his nephew on. fhore, he returned with a large double canoe full of hogs, for a prefent to the furgeon and myfelf, as a token of his gratitude. I took the hogs ■ on board, but we declined receiving them as a- prefent, though it was with fome difficulty I prevailed on the old: warrior to- receive any thing in exchange. I defired him= to come daily on board to have his wounds dreffed, which- pleafed him very much, and he went on. fhore highly fa- tisfied with the treatment he received.. On the 7th the king in a large double canoe, attended. Sunday 7; iy feveral others, left the bay and fet off for Apoonoo. Abbenooe ftill remained on board the King George, and- we found him a moft ufeful perfon : if ever any little difpute arofe in our traffic with the natives, he always fettled it to general fatisfaction,. Wm m SI 1 C H A P. IX. ' 1787- January. Monday 8. Tuefda/9. WedneC 10. A VOYAGE TO THE We ftill were furnifhed with a few hogs and vegetables, and the natives brought us a plentiful fupply of fire-wood, fome of which made very good handfpikes and capflan- bars ; and as we began to run fhort of thefe articles, the carpenter fet about making fome. Not many canoes making their appearance to-day, I fuppofed a number of the natives had gone to their respective homes, having dif- pofed of the articles they had brought for fale, and fatisfied their curiofity. Pleasant weather, with light variable winds from Eaft North Eaft ; the anchor-end of the beft bower cable being much worn, we yefterday cut about nine fathoms of it off, and this day were employed in rounding it with grafs rope; a few hogswere purchafed, and fome firewood; feveral hands employed in fa wing up and flowing the wood away. But few hogs brought to-day ; I fuppofed that we had bought nearly all the natives wifhed to part with, and fhould for the future think ourfelves well off in procuring a fufficiency for our prefent ufe. The canoes belonging to the bay conftantly attended us; their principal cargoes confifted of cocoa-nuts, very fine fugar- cane, and bafs, and grafs-rope. Employed purchafing wood and bafs-ropes, and getting all clear for fea; at feven o'clock, up topgallant-mafls and yards; and at eight hove up and came to fail with a light breeze from the Northward. Between nine and ten it fell quite calm; at eleven a gentle breeze fprung up from the Weftward, with which we run in and anchored again in Wymoa Bay. I think a number more canoes muft have come into the 5 bay NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. bay during the night ; for we had more about us now c H A p than I have feen fince our arrival in the bay. We bought 9UH a few very good hogs ; but the chief of their remaining 111 merchandife feems to be now confined to what we term Wednef> IO* curiofities -y fuch as their country cloth, mats, fpears, and various other articles^ On the nth, employed in preparing for failing ; dark Thurfday j cloudy weather and rain. At fix o'clock, with a frefh breeze from the North Eafl, we weighed and came to fail • Queen Charlotte and the long-boat in company. After clearing the bay, made fail for the South point of Oneehow ; our diftance from the neareft fhore about three leagues ; my firft officer, who had been dangeroufly ill now recovered, and does duty again.. From the 12th to the 16th nothing particular occurred, Tuefday 1 when we came to anchor in Yam Bay with the beft bower, in fifteen fathoms water, over a bottom of coarfe fandi When moored, the following bearings were taken; namely; the North point of the bay 26° Eaft, diftant three or four miles, and the end of the reef that runs from that point North, 150 Eaft; the higheft part of the South Head run over the low land of the bay South,. 37° Eaft-; the South points of the bay, 150 Eafl, diftant three or four miles ; the ifland of Tahoora South, 430 Weft ; the ifland of Oneehow North, 250 Eaft;. and the bottom of the bay North, 6o° Eaft, diftance about a mile and a half. We found a very heavy fwell rolling into the bay, whicir caufed fuch a furf on the beach as made it very dangerous for the natives to come off with any thing. Queen Charlotte not in fight; went on fhore to defire the natives to bring us off a fupply of yams ; the furf ftill continued fo heavy on the A VOYAGE TT O THE p- the fhore, that the natives could have no intercourfe with us, and is very different to what we found it when we were here before; as then I fafely landed with our whale-boat, ' and fhe might have remained on the beach without any danger of filling. At that time there was no Wefterly fwell, and the true trade-wind prevailed, which is by no means the cafe at this time. Towards noon the weather cleared up a little, when fome canoes came off with a few yams, juft fufficient for a prefent fupply. On the 17th about ten o'clock I went on fhore with the whale-boat, accompanied by Abbenooe ; and as the furf ran even too great for canoes, we were obliged to row in under the reef, where we found a place that the boat could lie at her anchor with fafety ; and we went into a canoe to go on fhore, but were overfet by the furf before we reached it, and were obliged to fwim for it. After landing, we walked about feven miles to the Northward along the hills, at fome little diftance from the beach ; but in our walk I obferved the coaft all along to be very foul, and no place equal to Yam Bay to ride in. The country feemed very poorly cultivated, and Abbenooe told nie, that fince we took our flock of yams in, the people have in a great meafure neglected the ifland, barely planting enough for their own ufe ; and that fome had entirely left the ifland, and taken up their future refidence at Atoui. Towards evening we returned on board. The Queen Charlotte not in fight. Thurfday 18. On the 18th and 19th the carpenter employed in caulking the fides, the people working up junk, and the armourer at t ne iorge. 1 ne iurr on the c >eacn appearing ii 11 not . f| 1 i< * • C!?*«*3 . •> »^Hl NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 185 CHAP. IX. 1787. January. not very high, I gave the firft watch leave to go on fhore ; they went on fhore in our own boats, and had canoes to take them on fhore from the boats ; notwithftanding which, they were overfet, and fome of them would undoubtedly "rfâayi8" -have been drowned, had not the natives fwam into the furf and got them fafe on fhore. In fhe evening the whale-boat returned, having from the South feen the Queen Charlotte at a confiderable diftance. This day feveral of my people had liberty to go on Saturday «,. fhore ; all of whom returned except three, who were in a very poor ftate of health, and whom I thought of letting remain a few days till they got better ; and Abbenooe had provided a comfortable houfe for their reception, and ordered them to be fupplied with every refrefh- ment the ifland afforded. Prefently after, a heavy gale .coming on, obliged me to cut our cables and run out of the *bay, followed by the long-boat. We were under the ne- ceffity of leaving our three invalids on fhore ; but they were perfectly fafe, and taken proper care of. Ab- henooe and feveral others of the Indians were on board at the time, and went to fea with us; after getting a little offing we fleered to' the Northward, meaning, if the Wefterly winds continued, to go through between Atoui and Oneehow, and join the Queen Charlotte, who I fuppofed was ftill to the Eaftward of Oneehow, not having an opportunity of getting down to the bay. From the 21ft to the 26th kept hearing off and on Sunday 2Î; about Oneehow and Atoui, without being able to come to anchor till the 26 th in the South point of Yam Bay. Our Indian vifiters very impatient to get on fhore again, B b which # 4 KM Tîf it i:!;L Kp Iff a >iti m ir VOYAGE TO THE c **XA p* which the heavy furf ftill running prevented. The Queers ' Charlotte came to anchor about two miles to thefûbuth- A heavy fea continuing, made it difficult for any canoes to get to us ; at laft a few ventured off from Yam Bay ; one of them called aloiig-fide the long-boat, which I had fent into the bay on the 2 2d, to endeavour to get in the ends of the cables if he found it practicable, and lie at them till I fhould arrive with the fhip. They brought me a letter from the officer, acquainting me, that on his arrival in the bay the flip-buoy of the beft bower was gone, and that after getting hold of the flip-buoy rope of the ftream-cable, before they had well, got it taught, it parted, being chafed off by the motion of the rope againft the coral fand. In their canoes alfo came our three invalids, who had been on board the long-boat ever fince their anchorage in the bay. Thefe people had been very well treated by the natives during their flay on fhore ; and in confequence of their not feeing the fhip return fo foon as they expected, the Indians fuppofed we had gone to Wymoa to remain, and were juft at the time when the long-boat made her appearance in the bay, about taking them to Atoui in fome of their canoes to join the fhip ; but on the long-boat's arrival they fent them immediately on board her, and brought with them the flip-buoy of the beft bower-cable, and the buoy of the ftream-anchor, both of which broke a-drift and drove on fhore during the night after we cut out, at which time it blew very ftrong from the South Weft, with a very heavy fea. Abbenooe went on fhore with an intention of procuring a flock of yams for us, and to get them at the firft opportunity ; 11 the NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA •die weather continued ftill fo bad that we could not make c *LA p* any trial for our andhbr. From the 28th to the 30th the weather ftill fo very Sunday 2s, fqually, that we could not attempt getting our anchors, and not thinking it fafe to lie in olïr prefent fituation, we weighed and came to fail ; the Queen Charlotte and tSe long-boat in company, ftood to the Southward to clear the iflan$ o£ Oneehow; and as the wind ftill lay to the Northward and Weftward, which prevented us doing any thing towards recovering our anchors, I meant to anchor and get a frefh fupply of provifions* ;0n the 31 ft came to anchor in Wymoa Bay with the Wednef. $u fmall bower in twenty-nine fathoms water, over a bottom of fine muddy black fand. When moored, we lay nearly abreaft of the river and the town of Wymoa, from which we jbnmediately had a fufficient fupply of provifions of different kinds. |fc Variously employed on board. Abbenooe difpatched a February. gym 11* *i*r* *i Jiuriu2y j# meiienger to the king to acquaint mm or our arrival. On the 2d, 3d, and 4th, employed in working up Friday 2. junks, painting the fhip, and other neceflary jobs, ||| A gentle breeze from the South Weft, with fine wea- Monday | ther. I gave the fécond watch leave to go on fhore : a number of Abbenooe's people attended them by his order, to prevent quarrels between the feamen and the natives, and . to furnifh them with provifions. His orders were punctually attended to. In the evening, when the people returned, I found not a theft had been attempted, but they had B b 2 been VOYAGE TO THE been treated with every luxury the ifland afforded, and that in a moft friendly manner. A remarkable circum- flance, related by Mr. Goulding, a volunteer in the fer- vice, fhews the great regard the natives have for their dogs : in walking a confiderable way along the fhore, he met with an Indian and his wife ; fhe had two puppies, one at each breaft : the oddity of the circumflance induced him to endeavour to purchafe one of them, which the woman could not, by all his perfuafions or temptations, be induced to part with ; but the fight of fome nails had fuch powerful attractions upon the man, that he infilled upon her parting with one of them ; at: laft, with every fign of real forrow fhe did, giving it at the fame time an affectionate embrace. Although he was at this time a confiderable way from the fhip, the woman would not part with him till they arrived where the boat was lying to take him on board, and juft upon his quitting the fhore fhe very earneftly intreated to have it once more before they parted ; upon his complying with which, fhe immediately placed it at the breaft, and after fome time returned it to him agaim This day, at my requeft, two chiefs that were on board from Wymoa exercifed with their fpears; the dexterity and aftonifhing expertnefs fhewn by them wonderfully furprifed every one on board ; one of them, whofe name was Na-maa- te-e-rae, that is, blind of one eye, is a well-made man of about five feet fix inches high, his fkin much affected by his immoderate drinking of yava ; and though he appears to be a perfon of very little property, is yet much refpecled, and his company courted by all the principal men of the ifland. I fuppofe the attention paid him proceeds from his having been, and ftill remaining, a great warrior ; the 8 lofs NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. lofs of his eye, one informed me, he met with in battle by a ftone flung from a fling ; but this accident does not prevent him from being a moft expert warrior ; his manner of exercifing gave us fufficient proofs to the contrary. He took his fland about three or four yards from the cabin-door, unarmed; the other perfon Hood at about eight or ten yards diflance from him, provided with five fpears ; upon the fignal being given for commencing action, a fpear was thrown with the utmofl force at Na-maa-te-e-rae, which he avoided by a motion of the body, and caught it as it paffed him by the middle : with this fpear he parried the refl without the leafl apparent concern ; he then returned the fpears to his adverfary, and armed himfelf with a Pa-ho-a; they were again thrown at him, and again parried with the fame eafe. One of the fpears Hruck a confiderable way into the bulk-head of the cabin, and the barbed part was broken off in endeavouring to get it out.- The remarkable coolnels he fhewed at the time the fpears were eaft at him, proved at once his courage and ex- pertnefs. All who were fpectators of the fight fhud- dered at the danger he feemed expofed to, and were afto- nifhed to fee with what eafe he parried every thing that was eaft at him. c H A ] IX. 1787. February. Monday 5. This day I gave the third watch leave to go on fhore ; the Tuefday 6i reft of the people varioufly employed; moderate breezes and fine weather. Being on fhore myfelf, with my old friend Abbenooe, I obferved in the village of Wymoa, about three hundred yards from the beach, a firing of four or five houfes, tolerably large, in very good order, without inhabitants ; on my afking Abbenooe the reafon of their being tabooed, he informed me that they were houfes built H Kill int ii 1 ! w il" m* 11 19a CHAP. IX. u 1,—-i 1787. February. Tuefday 6. A VOYAGE TOT HE built for the king, whenever he honoured Wymoa with a vifit, and that no perfons whatever were allowed the ufe of them in his abfence ; he likewife informed me, that the king had given him directions to build me a houfe on a clear.fpot juft to the Weftward of thefe houfes, and that he had brought me to this place for me to point out a fituation to my own liking. For fome time I declined accepting the favour, but my friend's earneft intreaty made me at iaft confent .to gratify his generofity, and I fixed on a fpot. No fooner had I given my confent than workmen were immediately employed ; fome were fent to fetch wood from the country, others to bring a kind of long grafs for thatching;, all of which orders were received with the greater! fatisfaction, every one wifhing to exert himfelf to the utmoft, and delighted with the idea of having their friend Po-poo-te amongft them. Near the fpot I fixed on I procured a large flat Hone, on which I etched the initials of my name, the country I ferve, and the year of our Lord;; I explained as well as I could the meaning of this to my friend, who appeared much pleafed with it : I defired he would caufe the flone to be placed in the eentreof the houfe. One very great inconvenience attends their houfes, which is their want of windows; the extreme hot weather they have fo much of -makes it very uncomfortable and clofe ; but they feem to think it a matter of no confequence to guard againft any thing but the rains and cold. When they find it too warm, they directly go into the water to cool themfelves, it being a matter of indifference to them whether it is night or day. I re- quefled of my friend, in the building of my houfe, I might have windows in it, one at each end, one on each iide the door, and one at the back, for the benefit of both light M NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 191 CHAP- IX. 1787T" Febfuary. fight and air. He faid it fhould. be done as I defired ; and every thing being fettled to general fatisfaction refpect- ing the building, we proceeded up the valley, attended by a number of the natives of both fexes, young and old, Tuefaa/6- who behaved with the greatefl hofpitality and friendfhip, prefling me earneflly to go into every houfe we came to, and partake of the befl fare in their power to give ; and numbers of the mothers bringing me their1 children to ho-ne, that is falute them, by touching nofes ; my compliance with which' feemed to give them infinite fatisfaction ; and I can fafely affirm it gave me equally as much : I was delighted to fee fo much happinefs in the faces of hundreds of the Indians whom we had formerly fo much reafon to think were a treacherous people. This excurfion .gave me a frefh opportunity of admiring the' amazing ingenuity and induflry of the natives in laying out their taro and fugar-cane grounds ; the greatefl part of which are made upon the banks of the river, with exceeding good caufeways made with ftones and earth, leading up the valleys and to each plantation ; the taro-beds are in general a quarter of a mile over, dammed in, and they have a place in one part of the bank, that ferves as a gateway. When the rains commence, which is in the winter feafon, the river fwells with the torrents from the mountains, and overflows their taro-beds ; and when the rains are over, and the rivers decreafe, the dams are flopped up, and the water kept in to nourifh the taro and fugar-cane during the dry feafon ; the water in the beds is generally about one foot and a half, or two' feet, over a muddy bottom ; the fugar-cane generally in lefs water, grows very large and fine, and is a great article of food with the natives, particularly the lower clafs ; the taro alfo M mm :ll HUM ^ggjgg ft Rt I m ii 592 CHAP. IX. February. Tueiday 6. A VOYAGE TO THE alfo grows frequently as large as a man s head, and is efteemed the beft bread-kind they have ; they frequently make a pudding of it, which they keep till it becomes a little four, and then they are very fond of it, preferring it to every thing elfe. ' The Indians that were a little while at fea with me almoft fretted themfelves to death when their flock of po-e was exhaufted, which was very foon done, from the immoderate quantity they ate of it. I have feen my friend Abbenooe eat near two quarts of it at a meal, befides a quantity of fifh or pork. While we were walking among thefe taro-beds a number of the natives were in them, gathering it and fugar-cane to fupply the fhips ; they were up to their middle in water, After gratifying my curiofity amongft the plantations, my friend accompanied me to a large houfe fituated under the hills on the Weft fide the valley, and about two or three miles from the fea-beach. I found this houfe to be very large, commodious, and clean, with a new mat on the floor ; on the left fide of the door was a wooden image of a tolerably large fize, feated in a chair, which nearly re- fembled one of our armed chairs ; there was a grafs-plat all round the image, and a fmall railing made of wood ; befide the chairs were feveral to-e's and other fmall articles. My friend informed me that this houfe had been built with the to-e I had given him upon my firft calling at Oneehow, and that the other articles were prefents that I had made him at different periods, and that the image was in commemoration of my having been amongft them. Few people were admitted into this houfe, Amongft other articles in it were feveral drums ; one in particular was very large, the head of which was made out of the fkin of the large fhark I have already mentioned ; and ■ If; ■;!, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 19. 1787. February. $nd I was told thefe drums were dedicated to their gods. We had fome refrefhments ; fuch as pork, faked fifh, taro, plantains, and cocoa-nuts, and then returned to the beach. The long-boat being in fhore to take off fome provifions of Tuefday 6 different kinds that were collected by a taa-boo-a-ra, or general tax laid on the natives by the king ; I ordered the officer in her to remain at anchor a little diftance from the beach until fome of the things came down ; and during the whole time had great reafon to be well fatisfied with the natives who attended, fome in canoes, others fwim- ming about. I went off in the long-boat, accompanied by Abbenooe and fome other chiefs, who were highly delighted with the fail to the fhip, as there happened to be a very brifk breeze ; the method of fleering with the rudder took much of their attention ; and Abbenooe took a fpell at the helm, and faid that he would try to fleer their canoe in the fame way. On my arrival on board I found every thing in good order. It is not in my power to give half the praifes that are due to thefe people, from the king to the tow-tow ; their attention and unwearied induftry in fupplying us with every thing in their power was beyond example; their hofpitality and generofity were unbounded; and their eagernefs to do us acts of kindnefs was amazing. I hope, by the help of their own ingenuity, they will be enabled, from, their obfervations upon our methods of failing, building, &c. to bring thefe articles among themfelves to much greater advantage than they are at prefent. My friend Abbenooe's attachments to both fhips companies was lingular ; in general he flept on board the King George, where I had a cot hung up for him in the cabin, with which he was very much pleafed; the old man had fome falls before he was ufed to it, by getting in at one C c fide W m méU wm 194 AVOYAGETOTHE c **XA p- fide and rolling out at the other ; but he always got up *——■—j again v/ith the greatefl good nature, and in a very little Februîy. time furmounted that difficulty. Wednef. 7. On the 7th the people were employed in getting provifions, which Abbenooe informed me he had got ready for the boats. About ten o'clock the boats returned well loaden with hogs and other provifions. Tkurfdays.. This day the king arrived in the bay, attended by feveral large canoes ; he came on board, and appeared very well pleafed at the friendly intercourfe that fubfifled between his fubjects and us. Our people always went on fhore unarmed, which prevented the natives having any apprehenfions of danger, and created a mutual confidence in each other. The king flaid on board a few hours, and I then attended him on board the Queen Charlotte, to fee captain Dixon. Friday 9» From the Cjtli to the 12th nothing particular occurred". Light winds from the Weftward, with clear pleafant weather. The fwell from South Weft ftill continuing, led me to think that we fhould have the wind again-from that quarter ; and not wifhing to ride out another Weftern gale in our prefent fituation, I determined the firft opportunity to weigh and get out of the bay. About ten; o'clock the wind hauled to the Weft North Weft, with which we weighed and Hood out of the bay : the Queen Charlotte in company. At nine o'clock, the Queen Charlotte being a confiderable way a-Hern, we wore fhip and hove-to, with' the fhip's head to the Northward, to give her art opportunity of joining us. Three canoes came off with provifions.. After NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. After having fold their cargoes, they took their leave of us ; as did our faithful friend, who left his fon on board, wifhing to go with us. The Queen Charlotte in company. From this day to the 16th nothing particular occurred. Early on the 16th our old friend Abbenooe came off Friday 16. from the Eafl point of Atoui in a large double canoe, and brought us a fine hog and fome taro. I made him a prefent, with which he was fatisfied, and immediately went on board the Queen Charlotte ; and on his leaving her, I bore away to the Weftward, intending to run for Oneehow, to make a trial for the recovery of our anchors left there. Should I fucceed, I meant then, if poffible, to return to Wymoa Bay, and endeavour to get the Queen Charlotte's fmall bower. I fhould, if there had been any dependence •on the weather, have tried for her's firfl ; but as the anchors at Oneehow were the greatefl object, and there was the moft likely probability of getting them (lying in fhoal- water, and the beft bower having a buoy on it), I was glad to embrace the firft fpurt of good weather, with an Eafterly wind, to make the trial; as a Northerly, Southerly, or Wefterly wind create fuch a fwell, that it would make it impoffible to do any thing of that kind. At fix o'clock we brought-to with the main-topfail to the maft. My reafon for taking this ftep was, that in cafe the breeze fhould fail, and prevent us from proceeding to Oneehow, we might be near Wymoa in the morning ; from whence there was a probability of procuring fome vegetables. k When we brought-to, the extremes of Atoui bore about North and North Wefl, about feven miles diftance, until daylight, when the appearance of the wind being fettled $o the Eaftward, we bore away, and made fail for Onee- C c 2 how. ifë.ik!f II if:1 iiar r CHAI IX. I78~ February, Friday 16. ■196 A VOYAGE TO THE how. Served half a pound of bread per man, and a pound and a half of frefh pork. At noon the extremes of Oneehow bore Weft South Weft ; diftance from South-head about five leagues. The clouds to the Weftward flying from South South Weft, and a fwell from the South Weft, induced me to bring-to, and wait until thefe appearances of an approaching Wefterly wind fubfided. I think we may with great truth affirm, that during the time we were among thefe iflands we had more difagreeable weather and crofs winds, than was experienced in the Re- folution and Difcovery during their whole voyage, which was upwards of four years. Saturday^. Moderate breezes from the Eaft South Eaft and South Eaft. About two o'clock paffed the South-head of Oneehow, and run towards Yam Bay ; and at Rve anchored with the fmall bower in twenty-nine fathoms, over fine white fand ; the Queen Charlotte anchoring at the fame time a little to the Southward. The weather continuing fine, all hands were up, and began to look for our anchors ; both of which, in the courfe of the day, were recovered, and got on board. Sunday 18. About two o'clock in the morning began to unmoor, got the kedge on board, and began heaving in the bower cable. The weather beginning to look unfettled, with a fwell continuing from the Weftward, led me to think we fhould very foon have bad weather, and a Wefterly wind. Experience had fufficiently taught me that we could not ride in this Bay with the wind any way to the Weftward of North or South, without imminent danger. At five weighed and made fail ; the Queen Charlotte in company. Stood to tuftftl irF NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. to the Weftward until we got a convenient diftance from the land, which was when we loft hearing the furf, and then Northward. During the night fleered from North Weft to North Eaft, with a moderate breeze. The wind chopping fuddenly round to the South Weft, with rain and every appearance of had weather, indmosl me to haul to the North Weft, under the three topfails, till daylight, which was about fix o'clock ; bore away to the North Eaft at feven ; faw the Weft part of Atoui, bearing Eaft by South, diftant eight leagues ; and at half paft jfeven faw the Weft part of Oneehow, bearing South, diftant "Jbven or eight leagues. About ten the weather cleared up, and the wind light and unfettled, from Eaft South Eaft to South. At noon a moderate breeze ; the ifland of Atoui bearing from Eaft to South Eaft by South, diftant from the neareft part about fix leagues ; our courfe about Eaft for the North fide of Atoui; latitude 22° 29/ North. During the time of working for our anchors I employed fome hands in procuring yams, fait, and -water, which the natives brought us off in fmall quantities, and before we got under fail I think we had purchafed yams enough for three or four days. I cannot too highly commend the behaviour of both the fhips companies during the whole of the voyage to this time ; fometimss trifling differences kave arifen; but I think I may venture to fay there never were lefs among fuch a number of people ; their attention and unwearied induftry during the time of getting our- anchors, without the leaft murmuring or backwardnefs,, delighted me, although they had fcarce time to.fwallow a mouthful of victuals.. € M A I IX. i7'~ February» Sunday 18. At: CHAP. IX. 1787T" February, Monday 19- W-ednef. 28. A VOYAGE TO THE At one o'clock a fine breeze from the South ; fleering Eaft by South, along the North fide of Atoui. I was in hopes that as we drew near the North fide of the iflands we fhould have canoes off with hogs and vegetables. We Iiad pretty well drained the South fide. As to Oneehow, I believe were the hogs all collected together, they would not amount to a dozen ; and I was afraid we fhould fall very fhort of a fupply of yams, as my old friend Abbenooe informed me, that fince the Hock we before carried from the iflands, they have neglected cukivating the land. Indeed his information agreed with my own obfervations while on fhore ; for I walked over a great deal of ground lying entirely wafte. It appeared to me .that a number of the natives that formerly inhabited this ifland have quitted it to refide at Atoui ; probably the iron which they procured from us formerly, enabled them to purchafe poffeffions in Atoui; as Oneehow is but a poor fpot, abounding in fcarce any thing but yams, potatoes, fugar-cane, and the fweet root, with a very trifling quantity of wood : whereas Atoui is amply provided with many articles of provifions, particularly the taro, which the natives prefer to yams or potatoes,; and I am fenfible that none of them will live at Oneehow that can procure a fufficiency to refide at Atoui. During our run along the North and Weft parts of Atoui, we faw no appearance of any harbour. Latitude 2 20 14' North,. From the 20th to this day the peopLe varioufly employed on board, repairing the rigging, .&c. Handing off and on for a favourable wind to take us to Wymoa Bay; where we* anchored this day with the fmall bower in -thirty- 1787. February» Wednef. zd> NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. thirty-feven fathoms water; black muddy fand ; the Eaft point of the bay bearing Eaft three quarters South, and the Weft point North Weft by South; the river's mouth Nortk half Weft, and the valley that runs up from the village of Wymoa North Eaft half Eaft ; our diftance from the fhore about two miles. Made an attempt for thé Queen Charlotte's anchor without fuccefs. No canoes coming to us this evening, made me fend the whale-boat in fhore to> purchafe fome taro. Light variable winds, with pleafant weather ; the March, people employed in procuring provifions; moft of the |: ayr canoes having left the bay with the greatefl part of the chiefs, and gone to Apoonoo. This day a man of fome little confequence,. named No-ho-mi-te-hi-tee, who had been very often on board, and rendered us a good deal of affiftance in procuring provifions, preffed me very much to take him into the fhip with us. The man appeared fo very earneft in his folicitations, that at laft. I consented- to his going in. the fhip, and meant to have given him a trip to* the North Weft coaft ; and at our next touching at thefe: iflands, either to- have left him there or brought him to- England. He informed me, that he had collected a. number of little articles,, which- he made a- prefent of to his. father, a very old man, almoft worn out with age. But Poor-a-r.e-a-re, one of the king's mefïèngers, who rules with unbounded fway when the king and principal, chiefs are from the ifland, knowing the old man was pof- feffed of a great many articles, went to him and demanded all his treafure, confifling of a few to-es, beads, rings,, and various little articles which his fon had given him.. The old man denied having any thing ; for he had 12 taken* H '.1-..1- H ft "I 'Mill ill ilWlil 200 1787. March. Thurfdiay.r. A VOYAGE TO THE taken care not to lodge them in his houfe, but had deposited them in a hole in the ground at a convenient diftance from the houfe. The meffenger Hill perfifled in his telling him where they were, and the old man continuing obflinate, the meffenger caught hold of him by the tferoat, and threatened that if he would not deliver up his goods he would murder him ; and indeed he had nearly Hrangled him before he would fhew him where his treafure was depofited. At lafl the old man was obliged to difcover all, which was immediately taken away by the meffenger. No-ho-mi-te-hi-tee landed with his canoe jufl at the time, and faw his father in this.'fituation, but did not interfere ; perhaps not for want of courage, but dreading to lay hands on a meffenger of the king's, who are held in great efleem. He left Hs father to get out of the affair, and came on board as before related. Being pretty late in the evening, and knowing we never allowed any of them to come on board in the night, he took good care to call frequently out for Po-pootee, in a moft piteous tone, to let me know it was he, and that he wanted to come on board, which he did. He then told me his forrowful tale, and wanted me to punifh the meffenger for fris ill behaviour ; but had I been inclined to do it, I could not ; for he never after that put himfelf into my power. No-ho-mi-te- H-tee in a few days after that, being tired of living on fait provifions, left me; and I had no opportunity of feeing the king or Abbenooe before I left the iflands, to- inquire what was done about it. From this time to the 3d, employed in getting provifions, when we weighed and came to fail (Queen Charlotte in company), and ftood out of the bay, with an intention to proceed immediately to the coaft, leaving for the fécond time thefe friendly iflands. 13 / NORTH WEST COA$T OF AMERICA, $.ot CHAP. ■y Paffage from the Sandwich Iflands to the. Coafl of America, —Good EffeSls of Beer made of the Sweet Root.—Ar± rival at Montague Ifland.—Anchor in Hannings Bay, —Boats fent on a trading Expedition.—Meet with a Veffel from Bengal.—Their diftr effing Situation.—Refrefhments fent to the Nootka.—Plan of future Proceedings.—Vifited by a powerful Tribe of Indians'.—Their Propenfity to Theft.—Departure from Montague Ifta?tdm —The Ships feparate.'—Arrival of the King George in Hinchinbrooke Cove. -Idl xmm W3 TT/E now proceeded for the coafl a fécond time, and chap. ** till the 19th nothing of material confequence oc- « ~J-^ curred. Latitude 2 6° 2'North. This day, concluding my- m^IL felf about twenty-five or thirty leagues to the Eaftward of Monday l9- the Refolution and Difcovery's track towards the coaft, and nearly in the latitude that the iflands of Saint Maria la Gorta are laid down, having a ftrong gale with very thick weather, I did not think-it prudent to run during the night; therefore at fix o'clock handed the forefail and brought-to under clofe-reefed mainropfail, mizen-flay-fail, and foretop- mail-Hay-fail ; fhip's head to the South Weft. Queen Charlotte brought-to clofe under our lee quarter. -During the night it continued to blow very hard, with heavy fqualls from the South South Eaft. D d From \aumiMmmnusmmumtam £02 A VOYAGE TO THE lilï LrPrr» iiilr c ha p. From this time to the 12th of April we kept our courfe <-—..!—1 for the coaft; latitude 520 46' North. Both fhips companies April'. were very well, except the carpenter of the Queen Char- Thurfdayiz. Y0\xe, who had been a long time troubled with a lingering complaint ; and Richard Greenhult, one of my quarter- mailers, who had been very ill at the iflands, had recovered amazingly, and was now out of danger. The method of brewing the fweet root having already been taken notice of, at this time I fhall only obferve, that three quarts of molaffes were put into fix gallons of beer, in addition to a pint of effence of malt ; and after being a fhort time in bottles, it was nothing inferior to the fineft cyder. Richard Greenhult had a bottle given him daily, and it was found of infinite fervice to him^ indeed its good effects were almoft inftantaneous ; and it certainly is a moft excellent and valuable medicine ; for the poor man was fo reduced with an almoft continual fpitting and vomiting of blood, that at one time my fur- geon was of opinion he could not live many days. We kept flanding to the North Weft, with frefh breezes Monday 16. in the Southern and Weftern boards. On the 16th, the water being much coloured, we tried for foundings, but got no bottom with 140 fathoms of line. Our latitude at that time was 58° io' North, and 1470 18' longitude. In our laft paffage to the coaft, in nearly the fame latitude, and 2° 15' longitude to the Weftward of our prefent fituation, we ' ftruck foundings in feventy fathoms water, which inclines me to think, that after getting to the Eafl- ward of that longitude, though in the fame latitude, the water it NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA 203 water deepens very much ; and to the Weftward of that c HXA p* longitude, and in the fame latitude, it fhoals, efpecially '———» on drawing towards Cape Greville, or the Ifle Saint Her- April7.' rnogenes. At three o'clock in the afternoon we faw a Monday l6, feal, and paffed feveral patches of the fea-leek, and pieces of drift-wood, but got no foundings with 150 fathoms of line. !N1 Our latitude at noon on the 17th, by double altitudes, Tuefdayi7. was 570 54'; at the fame time the latitude, by account, was 58° 25' : this difference I paid no regard to; as there was a probability that neither the watch or the altitudes were to be depended on ; but on fpeaking captain Dixon, I found he had got an altitude by his time-piece when it was very near noon, which gave the latitude 570 50'; fo that we muft have been fet by a current during the laft twenty-four hours, thirty-five miles to the Southward. Indeed the laft year, when we were about this coaft, we found almoft a confiant current fetting to the Southward. Towards evening, judging that we were not more than ten leagues from the South Weft point of Montague Ifland, I hauled the wind to the Weftward, under an eafy fail, in order to wait for daylight to run in for the land; but in this I was difappointed ; for foon after midnight it began to rain, and the weather grew very thick. About three o'clock in the morning the weather cleared a little ; wednef. is. and being very anxious to make the land, we bore away with the wind at South by Weft, and fleered North Weft by Weft. This however was of fhort continuance; for in lefs than an hour the weather again became very thick, and the wind began to blow very frefh at South ; on which we ' hauled to the wind, and founded with T50 fathoms line, D d 2 but SE 204. A VOYAGE TO THE CH A P. X. mm llfifffl 11:1:1 raiaiSB P4i» ,r» Ml 1787. April. Wednef. i&. but got no bottom. We nôW had a fucceflion of frefhi gales and thick dirty weather, which caufed us to ply occafionally : as I did not think it prudent, under fuch circumftances, to ftand in for the land. Strong gales, attended with thick hazy weather, continued with very little Monday 23. intermiflion till thé 23d. On that day at noon, being in 59* 11' latitude, and 1480 15' longitude, we had foundings in feventy-fix fathoms water, over a muddy bottom, with fmall black fpecks and black Hone; and at two o'clock the land made its appearance through the haze, intirely covered with fnow, bearing from North North Weft to Weft by South, about eight leagues diftant : but foon afterwards the weather grew thick, which prevented me from getting a good fight of the land, fo as to be certain of our exact: fituation. The fog rather difperfing at four o'clock, we again faw the land bearing Weft by South, which at firft I took for the South Weft point of Montague Ifland ; but prefeotly afterwards land was feen bearing North North Eaft, which I immediately knew to be the point juft mentioned ; and the land bearing to the Weftward to be the land to the Weftward of the paffage into Prince William's Sound. We continued Handing on to the North Wefl till feven o'clock, when we wore and flood to the Eafl ward. Juft at this time the weather cleared up, and gave us a good fight of the land, and paffage into the Sound ; the middle of which bore North North Eafl, about eight leagues diflant. Tse&ay 24. During the night we flood to the Eaflward under an nd at daylight the next morning we Hood in for the South Wefl point of Montague Ifland with a light breeze at North WeH, under all the fail we could make. eafy fail, 9 NORTH W.EST COAtT-OF AMERICA. Vv eit. H A At eight o'clock having a fine breeze at Wefl South we fleered North for the entrance ; the Eaft fifde of which !—j bore North by Eaft, and the Weft fide North, diftant from & each point five or fix leagues. At nine o'clock the Weft Tucfday point of Montague Ifland bore North Eafl one fourth North, five leagues diflant, and the middle of the paffage North half Eafl. I now judged that we were in about thirty-five fathoms water, and on founding we had thirty- four fathoms over a bottom of fand and fhells. 1 have found from experience, that in going off in the fame direction the water deepens gradually, and in about fifty fathoms there is a muddy fandy bottom; but on crofling that direction either to the Eaftward or Weftward, the water deepens very quick into eighty, and upwards of one hundred fathoms. The wind failing us a little, the whale-boat was fent a-head to tow. At noon, the extremes of Montague Ifland in fight bore Eaft by South five miles, and North by Eaft four leagues, our diftance from the nearefl fhore about three miles. On founding, we had fixteen fathoms water over a rocky bottom. Our obfervation gave 59° 50' latitude, and, according to the bearings and diftance of the South Weft Point of Montague Ifland, I made its latitude to the 590 47 , which lam certain is right within a mile or two. In Captain Cook's chart that point is fituated in the, latitude of 590 36', which is eleven, miles too much to the Southward; but as he had no opportunity of getting an obfervation near it, and trufted to his fhip's run, he might eafily make a mif- take of eleven miles. Mr. Edgar in his chart has placed it very near the truth. According to good obfervations taken of the fun and moon on board both fhips a fhort time before we made the land, and brought forward by °5 24, m the VOYAGE TO THE the fhips run, we agreed to a mile with" the longitude, which Captain Cook has laid the South Wefl point down in. It may not be amifs to obferve, that all fhips coming into this harbour ought to keep the fhore of Montague Ifland on board as clofe as they can ; for if they get off into the channel, and over towards the Weft fhore, they will foon bring fixty, feventy, j and eighty fathoms water, and that depth too clofe in fhore for anchoring. Towards one o'clock an appearance of a good bay or harbour prefented itfelf on the Montague Ifland fhore, towards which I directed my courfe. This bay is fituated five or fix leagues within the South Weft point of Montague Ifland, and nearly a-breafl on the ifland that forms the Weft fide of the Channel. At two o'clock the whale-' boat was fent to found and examine the bay. In the fpace of an hour fhe returned, and the officer who was in her reported that the fhips could ride in it with fafety. On this I hauled in for it, and anchored at four o'clock in twenty fathoms water over a muddy bottom. We moored with the beft bower in twenty-one fathoms over the fame bottom. In running into the bay juft off the South point, we had feven and eight fathoms water over a bottom of black, mud and fand. This bank appeared to run nearly acrofs the mouth of the bay, and, after palling it, we deepened the water to twenty-one fathoms, in which depth we anchored. When moored, the South point of the bay bore South Weft by South two miles and a half, and the North point North North Wefl half Weft, two miles diftant, our diftance from the neareft fhore about one NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. one mile. On looking round the bay, I thought I could c H A p perceive it to take a fhort turn round a point nearly at the bottom, on which I went accompanied by Captain Dixon fe to examine it. " We carried good and regular foundings to Tuefday 2+ the faid point, and found that a fhip could lie in four and a half and five fathoms water, with the South point of the bay juft fhut in with this point at about a cable's length from the fhore. The inner point may be taken clofe on board, as it is quite bold; the bottom of the bay flat. Before I left the fhip we were vifited by five canoes, fome with one man in, and others with two; but I was .rather furprifed to find that they had not the fkin of any animal among them. They had many beads of various forts, particularly fome fmall green and fome yellow ones, which they feemed to value very much; and I obferved they were of the fame kind with thofe we faw in Cook's River the laft fummer. Our vifitors frequently repeated the word Nootka, pointing at the fame time up the Sound. Never having either at this place or in Cook's River heard the natives make ufe of this word before, I was induced to think that they had been taught the word, by fome vifitors who had recently been at Nootka, and I was prefently convinced that there had lately been fom people trading with them; for, on my afking after the fea otter fkin, I was given to underftand that they had fold all their fkins to a Thomas Molloy, who I could underftand had left the Sound. This piece of information, however incorrect it might be, gave me fmall hopes of our being able to do any thing in Prince William's Sound; however, l% thought it was but right to try for it, and only lit- 2oS A VOYAGE TO THE III u I'BI' 1787. April. Tuefday 24 c HXA p- only to wait in this place for an opportunity of proceeding up. Towards evening our vifitors left us, and paddled out of the bay, after Healing feveral fifhing-lines that were hanging overboard. The only wind to which this bay is expofed is at South Wefl, and with that wind a veffel may run before- it into the harbour, leaving the North point on the larboard hand. After hauling clofe round, and bringing that point on with the South point of the bay, a fhip may anchor and run a haufer to the trees to fleady with ; in which fituation there are four and a half and five fathoms water over a foft muddy bottom. Wednef. 25. On the 25th we got fome water off for prefent ufe, and the feine was hauled, but without fuccefs. Part of the* fhip's company were fent on fhore on the 26th to gather fhell-fifh, which were the only refrefhment this place was known to afford. The only fpace to walk in was along the beach, the adjacent country being entirely covered with fnow. There were plenty of wild geefe and ducks about, but fo very fhy, that we could not get within fhot of them. In a walk I took along the beach I faw the remains of two Indian huts, and a quantity of wood that had been cut down with edge-tools. The cuts in the wood were fo large and fair, as to convince me they were made by tools of a different kind to thofe ufed by the Indians : I therefore concluded that the Ruffians had vifited this place the laft autumn, not fuppofing that the people of any other nation had been in thefe feas. M»fc: No Indians coming near us, I determined to leave this bay the firft opportunity. Accordingly, at four o'clock in the morning of the 27th, having a light breeze from the am NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 209 CHAP. X. *7*7. April. Friday 27. the South South Weft, we unmoored, and hove fhort, ready for getting out of the bay, and proceeding up the Sound. But about five the weather grew very thick, and the wind fhifted to the North Eaft, which induced me to veer away, and fleady the fhip with the kedge. During the 28th we had light variable winds, with calms by turns; Saturday 28. but next morning at three o'clock the weather again grew Sunday z9. favourable, and a breeze fpringing up at Eaft, we unmoored fhip, weighed, and failed out of the bay. I was in hopes, that after getting out, we fhould take the flood-tide, and be enabled to get fome leagues up the channel ; but we found the tide very faint, and the wind directly againft us. Indeed, I have reafon to think that the flood-tide hardly ever has any flrength in this fituation ; but the ebb is much ftronger, owing to the great frefhes that are always running out. At feven o'clock, finding we got no ground, we bore up, and run into the bay again, and anchored nearly in our former fituation. Immediately after anchoring, I fet off, accompanied by Captain Dixon in his whale-boat, in quell of Indians, and to examine the coafl of Montague Ifland up towards the Sound. As we rowed along, we found a bold fhore, with anchorage in thirty fathoms water over a muddy bottom, about a mile from the land. After rowing about five leagues from the fhips, we came to a deep wide bay where veffels may fafely ride at anchor, in from twenty to ten fathoms water over a muddy bottom. In ten fathoms the fituation is near the bottom of the bay, and about half a mile from the fhore; but the beft anchorage feems to be nearefl the South fide, and no nearer the land than in ten or twelve fathoms water. We landed on the North E e fhore, * Ws II ill May. I'uefday I. VOYAGE TO TH E fhore, and walked a confiderable diflance, but could not perceive the leafl trace of any inhabitants. Whilft the people were dreffing fome pork and muflek for dinner, I went in my whale-boat round the North pojnt of the bay, and could perceive the coafl of this ifland towards Prince William's Sound for fix or feven leagues, without any appearance of an harbour, or even a fafe bay. I returned into the bay again, and after taking fome refrefhment, \^e\ proceeded towards the fhips, where we arrived about nine o'clock, without feeing any Indians during the whole day. Having ftill light variable winds, chiefly from the Northward, I fent the whale-boat in the morning, of the 30th to found from the fhip acrofs the channel, and along the coaft of an ifland which makes the Weft fide of the Channel. The weather was very fine and pleafant, but ftill no Indians came near us. Towards evening the boat return-,, ed from founding; they had, very foon after quitting the bay, fifty and fixty fathoms water over a muddy bottom, and in the mid channel, no ground, with all their line, which was feventy fathoms. Clofe over to the ifland there were forty and fifty fathoms water within a cable's length of the rocks and beach; and they carried the fame kind of foundings as far as the North extreme of the ifland, when, the day being far advanced, they founded no further. Short round this North point, in the direction of North Weft and Weft. North Weft, the officer who went in the boat informed me was a deep, found, in which were the appearances of good harbours. As I was de- firous of examining every place where there was a probability of meeting with inhabitants, I fet off early the next morning with the whale-boats, accompanied by Captain I)ixon, to look into this Sound; but, previous to our fetting NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA letting off, I left orders with Mr. M'Leod to move the c HXA fhips up the channel as far as the Green Ifles, if an opportunity offered, and there to wait my return. By ten o'clock we got round the North point of the iflantj^ which I diftinguifhed by the name of Mulgrave Ifland, and found the land take a quick turn to the Weft and Weft North Weft. We rowed into the Sound about eight or ten leagues, and the land to the Weftward and Southward of us appeared like iflands lying between us and the fea. To the Northward alfo the land appeared detached and in iflands, and the high land to the North Wefl was certainly thofe mountains which from Cook's River are feen to the Eaft and North Eaft. During this excurfion we faw neither inhabitants, huts, or the leaft traces of any, although it appeared a very eligible fituation, being very near the fea-fide, and well fhekered from the inclemency of the weather. Towards noon we rowed into and landed in a fmall cove where we took fome refrefhment. Shortly afterwards, I obferved the clouds to rife from tffif' South Weft, and being anxious to join my fhip, and proceed up the Sound v$rth the firft favourable wind, we fet off towards them. After getting out of the Sound, we found a frefh breeze from the Southward, with Which we ftretched over for Montague Ifland with fails and oars, and about eight o'clock in the evening faw the fhips lying in the bay examined by us on the 29th April, and which was named Hanning's Bay, after the worthy family of the Hannings, who are ftrenuous fupporters of our prefent voyage. We got on board about ten o'clock, where I. found every thing in good order. My firft mate informed me,~ E e 2 that A VOYAGE TO THE that about four hours after we left the fhip, a breeze fprung up from the South Weft, of which, agreeablyTjtp my order, he took advantage, and proceeded tjnus far, where he anchored,, in confequence of the wind's failing, and the ebb tide making down. I found the fhips in a very good fituation in the bay, riding by their bowers in twenty-one fathoms water over a muddy bottom, and fteadied with their kedges. The Southernmoft point of the bay bore South South Weft half Weft three miles, the North point North half Eaft one mile, and the bottom of the bay Eafl by South one mile and a half diftant. During the night we had light variable winds, with calms by turns ; but at nine o'clock the next morning a fine little breeze fpringing up from the Weftward, we weighed, and ftood out of Hanning's Bay, and after clearing the North point of it, ftood up the channel towards Prince William's Sound. At noon I fent the whale-boat a-head, and in fhore, to found, and the fhips run along fhore about one mile and a half diflant from Montague Ifland, in forty fathoms water; the whale-boat carried from thirty to thirty- five fathoms water over a muddy bottom. The wind growing fcant, I ordered the whale-boat a-head to tow the fhip. However, at two o'clock a fine breeze came on from the South South Wefl, with which we continued running up the channel, and had foundings from thirty- five to twenty fathoms water over a muddy bottom, until we drew near the Green Iflands, when the water fhoaled, and we frequently had feven and eight fathoms over a rocky and fometimes a fhelly bottom. At fix o'clock we paffed three beds of kelp, which we avoided, as it Was near them we had the fhoal water, and at this time it was dead low water. After running two or three leagues above thefe / NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 2IJ 17-87. May. Wed nef.-, Jul thefe fhoals on the Montague fide, there appealed feveral cha.p. fmall iflands fituated near the fhore, and fomeo^o^ks, which are covered at high water, lying to the Northward of them, and about two miles from the fhore, ftretching along nearly as high as the u-pper end of Montague Ifland. However, night coming on, and there appearing $. good channel between the two Wefternmoft rocks, with a probability of finding good anchorage within them, and the place very likely to be well inhabited, I was induced by thefe circumftances to pufh in. Accordingly I fent the whale-boat a-head to found, and we carried in from fe- venteen to twelve fathoms water, until we got fome diftance within the rocks. The water then, as we approached the fhore, began to fhoal very quick, and we came to anchor in ten fathoms over a bottom of black fand. Pre- fently afterwards, obferving a patch of kelp at a very final! diftance from the fhip, I fent a boat to found on it, and they found only three fathoms water over a rocky bottom. The fhoal was about a fhip's length from Eafl to Wefl, and nearly the fame breadth, with nine or ten fathoms water all round it. As our prefent ftation was by no means a fafe one, I went in the whale-boat to found beyond a point that lay to the Southward, round which promifed good fhelter. Immediately on paffing the fhoal juft mentioned, I found the water to deepen as we rowed towards the point from ten to twenty-two fathoms over a muddy bottom. After finding fafe anchorage for the fhips, I went on board, got under v/ay directly, and run in round the point, when we anchored in twenty-one fathoms water over a muddy bottom, and moored with the flream anchor to the North Eafl in fourteen fathoms, len moored, a fmall ifland, forming the Southernmoft part of H m Thurfday 3. Friday 4. A VOYAGE TO THE of the bay, bore South Weft half a mile, the Northern- moft point of the bay, North Weft three quarters North, three miles and a half, and the bottom of the bay North Eaft by Eaft two miles diftant. The Wefternmoft of the two rocks that we paffed in between was juft to be feen above water, and bore Weft three quarters South more than a mile diflant, and the Eafternmoft rock was covered, it being then about two thirds flood. It would not be prudent for any fhip to run through this paflage in thick weather; but when the weather is clear, it is tolerably fafe with a good look-out, the lead going, and keeping nearly in the mid channel. Early the next morning the carpenter was fent on more to cut down fome trees for fawing into plank, and I went myfelf up the bay to found and examine it. I found a moft excellent port land-locked, with feven fathoms water over a muddy bottom, about one cable's length from the neareft fhore ; but to my great furprife I could not meet with a fingle Indian, or the leaft traces of any having been there recently, although the place feemed very likely to be inhabited; fo that, finding my fearch fruitlefs, I returned on board. In the afternoon the long-boat was hoifted out, and a party was employed in fitting her for a trading expedition up the Sound. About four o'clock in the morning of the 4th, the wind blowing frefh from the North Weft; with an increasing fea, which caufed the fhips to ride heavy, I came to the refolution of running into the harbour. Accordingly we unmoored and got under way; but foon after getting within the firft point, the wind failed us, and we 3 were amwimuiiwuiuu NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, 215 1787. May. Friday 4. were obliged to warp in. In heaving up our flream an- c HXA Pt chor, the flock broke clofe to the fhank, and as it was an iron flock, the anchor was rendered ufelefs. This accident was likely to prove a very unlucky one, as I had fpared Captain Dixon an anchor in the room of one which he loft at Atoui; fo that I now had not a fmall one to fteady the fhip with except a kedge, which would not hold with the leaft wind. By three o'clock, having warped the fhip into a good birth, we anchored with the beft bower in feven fathoms and a half water over a muddy bottom, and moored with a hawfer made faft to the North fhore. When moored, we lay in five fathoms at low water. The people were employed in getting my long-boat and the whale-boat belonging to each fhip ready for going up the Sound on a trading expedition, under the direction of Captain Dixon ; and in the mean time I pro- pofed flaying with the fhips, in order to have them hauled on fhore, for the purpofe of cleaning and paying thefe bottoms. We could alfo fill our water, and do many other neceflary works, this harbour being a very convenient one for all our various employments. Next morning at daylight the boats fet out on their Saturdays, expedition, and by five, o'clock were out of fight dear of the harbour. Our various operations now began. I fent" a large party to clear away the ftones on a part of the beach, where I intended to lay the fhip. At ten o'clock we began to haul her in, and by noon fhe was: placed*. Some hands were employed in cutting pine branches to bream with. The cooper was fent on fhore, with two affiliants, to brew fpruce beer, and others were bufied in the hold. In the afternoon the ftarboard-fide of the fhip wa& » QnXBTfHnzBS Monday 7. VOYAGE TO THE was cleaned, and paid with a coat of tar, chalk, and train- oil, well boiled together. The fheathing-worm had entered in fome places, but not fo much as I could have expected. When laft at the Sandwich Iflands I bought a double canoe, which was now fitted up, and I fent her with two of the people into an adjacent creek, to catch crabs and pick muffels ; they being the only refrefhment, the decoction of fpruce excepted, in our power to obtain : the feine had been hauled repeatedly, but without fuccefs. Towards noon I had the pleafure of feeing an Indian come into the harbour in a fingle canoe ; he prefently came along-fide, but brought nothing to barter, except a little porpoife-blubber, which he feemed to confider as a dainty. I made our vifiter a prefent which pleafed him very much, and at the fame time endeavoured to make him comprehend what kind of trade we wanted. He feemed to underftand me, and left the fhip, well fatisfied with his reception ; fo that I had hopes he would bring others to us with fome trade. Great numbers of wild geefe and ducks were flying about ; but they appeared very fhy : indeed I did not chufe to fire at them, fearing that the report of fire-arms might prevent any Indians from coming into the harbour. By noon on the 7th the larboard fide of the fhip was finifhed ; and at high water we attempted to "heave her' off, but fhe did not fleet ; on which, I ordered fome fait water, that we.had under the cables in the main-hold, to be flarted, to lighten her againft the night-tide; being pretty certain of her fleeting* then ; as I had obferved the > 2 night- X. i787. IVlay. Monday 7. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA night-tides to be considerably higher than thofe in the daytime. During this time the people were all bufily employed in watering and wooding ; both of which being found clofe to the beach, made it very convenient ; and the cooper brewing fpruce beer : to a puncheon of beer three gallons and a half of molaffes were added ; it was afterwards worked with prepared yeaft, and we fucceeded in the firft brewing, which is not generally the cafe. / Next morning at three o'clock, being high water, and Tueiaay a high tide, we hove the fhip off, and laid her in her former ftation. The Queen Charlotte took our place on the beach ; and as the tide fell they begun cleaning and breaming : her fheathing was fomething worm-eaten, but every thing elfe in good order. Captain Dixon was ap- prehenfive that a part of her falfe keel was knocked off by a fhock they received at fea, which was fuppofed to be againft a whale ; but I found all fecure. In the forenoon of the 8th we were vifited by three of the natives in two canoes, but they brought nothing to fell, except two river otter-fkins and two feal-fkins, which I bought, and made them a prefent befides ; fo that they went away highly fatisfied. Thefe Indians mentioned the word Nootka very frequently ; and every time it was repeated they pointed up the Sound : they alfo mentioned, the name of Thomas Molloy. I found they were acquainted with the ufe of fire-arms, and I rather fuppofe they have gained that knowledge from the Ruffians. From feveral circumftances, I was inclined to think that our late vifiters belonged to the party we faw in the firft harbour we .anchored in. ;I7 m flrïM » F f Early m pmWWBBagffpWWTHi»l».1»i.l*J|IIIHIIIII I II. II III III A VOYAGE TO THE Early in the morning of the ioth captain Dixon returned with the boats from Snug Corner Cove. During this excurfion they had purchafed about thirty-fix fea otter fkins of different qualities, and a few other furs ; the chief part were procured near Cape Hinchinbrooke, to which place they firft went, and afterwards proceeded towards Snug Corner Cove ; as the Indians gave them to underftand there was a veffel in that neighbourhood. The natives fpoke feveral Englifh words very plainly, and pointed out to captain Dixon the place where this veffel lay. In confequence of this information he fet off, attended by fome of the Indians in their canoes, to the place they directed him to, and in the evening of the 8 th arrived on board. He found her to be the fnow Nootka, captain John Meares, from Bengal. Captain Meares had left that place in March 1786, and arrived in Prince William's Sound fome time in October, where he wintered, and had buried great part of his fhip's company, who died of the feurvy, and the furvivors were in a very weak fickly ftate.. Captain Dixon brought me a letter from captain Meares, in v/hich he pointed out his wants and his diflreffing fituation ; moft earneftly begging my affiftance; as without it he de- fpaired of getting his veffel from her prefent ftation. I read this letter with great concern,"and determined to give them every affiftance in my power whenever an opportunity offered of conveying it to them. It has already been obferved that the Nootka wintered in Prince William's Sound. Another veffel belonging to the fame owners left it juft before the Nootka's arrival* Both thefe fhips, I learned from captain Dixon, had given fuch great prices in barter for fkins, that the value of our cargo was greatly reduced. The only articles the natives :Vv would / NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. would even unwr ought look id red beads, look at were green ana rea oeaas, ana iron, in pieces nearly two feet long; but liatchets, howels, faws, adzes, brafs pans, pewter bafins, and tin kettles, would not be taken in barter even for fifh; fo that all we could depend on in our trade with the natives at this place, was pieces of iron and a few beads. I therefore ordered a tent to be erected on fhore for the armourers, and they were bufily employed in working up iron into towes about eighteen inches long, and fpear- heads, near two feet in length ; thefe being articles the Indians were very fond of. About eight o'clock, being on fhore giving directions about the armourers tent, I was informed from the fhip, that they faw a boat about the entrance of the bay, plying into the harbour : conjecturing it to be the Nootka's, I went immediately on board, and fent my whale-boat out to her affiftance. At ten o'clock my boat returned with the Nootka's long-boat in tow : their affiftance was very acceptable ; for the longboat's crew were almoft worn out with wet and cold, and were in a very weak condition. Captain Meares came in the boat himfelf, and from him I received fome further account of their diflreffing fituation during the winter; and indeed it muft have been a very dreadful one ; for before the winter broke up the captain and a Mr. Rofs, his chief mate, were the only two perfons capable of dragging the dead bodies from the fhip over the ice, and burying them in the fnow on fhore. Nay, there was not a fingle perfon on board who was not deeply affected with the feurvy. I learned from captain Meares, that on his arrival in the Sound he could not for a long time purchafe one fingle fkin ; they being all difpofed of to his confort, the Sea F f. 2 Otter, c • 219 H A P. X. 1787. May. Thurfday 10. BflHrTBBHBlI'M'JWIi'HH im\n\n*niujjmui\vmmnBfaauAu.uuuusi X 1787. May. Thurfday 10. A VOYAGE TO THE c h^a p. Otter, commanded by a Mr. Tipping, who, as well as himfelf, was a lieutenant in the Englifh navy. Both thefe fhips had traded with unwrought iron and fmall tranfparent beads, the fame kind as thofe we faw amongft the natives in Cook's Bay, who no doubt had got them from captain Tipping ; as he was in the Sound at the very time we were in Cook's River. Captain Meares alfo informed me, that feveral other fhips have at different times been trading on the coafl from India and China, a circumftance that we had no idea of at the time we left England, and in all probability will hurt our traffic fo much, that in- ftead of four thoufand fea-otter fkins, which I at one time expected to procure, I fhall be very happy if in the courfe of the feafon we can purchafe a thoufand between both fhips. I underftand that he expected a fhip to arrive at King George's-Sound early in June next ; it therefore became neceffary that the King George and Queen Charlotte fhould feparate ; and Captain Dixon and myfelf agreed for the Queen Charlotte to pufh on directly for King George's Soaand, in order to get the flart of that veffel, if poffible ; and the King George to remain in and about Prince William's Sound. I alfo refolved to difpatch my long-boat on a trading expedition to Cook's River, under the direction of Mr. Hay ward, my third mate, and Mr. Hill, with fix good and trufty men, in whom I could place entire confidence. I appointed Hinchinbrooke Cove as a place of rendezvous for the long-boat, and for ker to be with me by the 20th of June ; if fhe did not join me by that time, I was to wait for her till the 20th of July, but no longer. Afterwards I directed Mr. Hay- ward to procure a. paffage for himfelf and the people to China NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. China from this Sound, if he fhould find any fhip in c HXA p- it"bound that way ; if not, to proceed immediately to Kodiac, and procure a paffage to Europe by way of May. Afia.' I '|. :. Thurfday zo. Towards evening the wind blew ftrong and in fqualls. As we were riding chiefly by the fhore-haufer, I was afraid of its parting ; therefore let the fmall bower go under-foot ; but next morning, the weather growing mo- Fridayn* derate, it was hove up again. All hands were bufily employed in wooding, watering, brewing, and working in the hold. The Queen Charlotte having finifhed cleaning, breaming, and paying, hauled off the beach into her former ftation. In the afternoon we completed our water, having filled forty butts, two brandy-pieces, and. nineteen puncheons. At five o'clock captain Meares took leave of us and proceeded on towards his fhip with as many refrefhments of various kinds as the boat could well carry. We fpared him fome flour, loaf-fugar, molaffes, Sandwich Ifland pork, gin, brandy, and cheefe, and two good feamen, to affift in navigating his fhip to China; at which place he was to return them : their names were George. Willis and Thomas Dixon, both of whom went on board the Nootka, agreeably to their own requefts, and not from any entreaty whatever. Befides the above articles, I furnifhed captain Meares with 150 cocoa-nuts,. which" I had great hopes would- help to recover his people. Most' 1 <m»j m mai 112 CHAP. X. "~ 1787. "" May. Saturday 12. Sunday 13. A VOYAGE TO THE Most of our neceffary bufinefs being now completed, the armourers forges and the brewing utenfils were brought on board, and every thing was got in readinefs for failing. At fix o'clock in the afternoon the long-boat fet off for Cook's River, her crew in good fpirits, and well found for a fix weeks cruife. In the evening four canoes came along-fide, but they brought no trade ; and after flaying a fhort time, paddled away for the fhore. In the afternoon of the 13th we were vifited by two large Indian boats, containing about forty men, women, and. children ; a number of fmall canoes attended them. They brought only two very indifferent fkins and a few fifh, which I bought, and made their chief, whofe name I underflood was Shee-na-waa, a handfome prefent. Shee- na-waa I found was chief of the moft powerful tribe in the Sound ; they were audacious thieves, and, what was very remarkable, even the little boys were furnifhed with fmall hooked flicks for the purpofe of picking pockets. Our vifiters remained about the fhip till near fix o'clock, when they left us and went out of the harbour. At this time the Queen Charlotte's boat Was about two miles without the harbour with a fifhing party ; and the Indian boats immediately joined her. Being rather uneafy for fear of their pillaging the boat, I kept a look-out on them with my glafs, and prefently perceived a ftruggle between the two parties ; on this I immediately fet off in my whale- boat, fhe being always ready armed ; and leaving "directions with my mate to follow in the yaul, pufhed out towards them with all fpeed. The Indians no fooner faw - 6 the I 9 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 22$r CHAP. X. 1787. May. the boat round the point than they took to their paddles and went off as fafl as they were able. I rowed out and joined the Charlotte's boat, and found the Indians had taken away all their fifhing-lines, and were juft forcing Sunday '3* their anchor out of the boat when I hove in fight. On enquiry I found captain Dixon's people had no fire-arms in the boat; which was very unlucky, as even the fight of a mufket will prevent the Indians from attempting any violence ; fo thoroughly have the Ruffians taught them by experience the fatal effects of fire-arms. Captain Meares told me (and he had his information from the Ruffians whom he faw at Kodiac, where he touched on his way hither) that a party of them, fince our vifit in. the Refolution, had wintered in the Sound, and (according to their defcription of the place) in the very harbour we now, were at anchor in, where they had a battle witk the natives, who were beaten off ; but feven Ruffians loft their lives in the fkirmifh. Captain Meares likewife touched at Oonafka, and proceeding from thence along the coaft, he paffed the Schumagin Ifles. When he came as far as what captain Cook calls Whitfuntide Bay, he took it for the entrance into Cook's River, and finding an opening, he flood into it, and did not find out his miftake for fome time : at length meeting with fome Ruffians, they informed him that the flraft he then was in led into Cook's River, and that all the land between the Ifle Saint Hermogenes and the lirait was the iflând of Kodiac. On receiving this information, captain Meares flood on, and got into Cook's River near Smoaky Bay ; but was preT vented by bad weather from proceeding much further.. During ' his fhort flay in the river, he procured, only twa> 11 1 If VOYAGE TO THE c HXA p- two fea-otter fkins ; the natives about Cape Douglas and Mount Saint Auguftin being in the Ruflian in- terefl. Every thing being now ready for fea, we weighed anchor at daylight in the morning of the 14th, and with a. light breeze from the North Eafl, proceeded out of the harbour ; and after getting out of the bay, hauled up towards Prince William's Sound. During the former part of the day we had light variable winds, fo that the boats were fent a-head to tow the fhip ; at three in the afternoon a fine breeze came on from the South Weft, with which we flood over for Hinchinbrooke Cove. At fix o'clock I fent my whale-boat on board for captain Dixon ; and this appearing a good opportunity for his getting out of the Sound, we determined on feparating, and each fhip to adopt the plan that has already been mentioned. Soon afterwards captain Dixon returned on board, and we took leave of each other ; the Queen Charlotte fhaped her courfe out of the Sound, and I bent mine for Hinchinbrooke Cove. At nine o'clock the South Weft breeze failed us, and we had light winds about North Eaft, right down the Cove. At that time we were clofe to fome rocks that lie at the entrance, and in fifty fathoms water; and upon this the boats were fent a-head, and we ftood over for the South fhore of the Cove. The wind continued fcant all night, and that little was directly againft us ; fo that we could barely hold our own. I would have anchored within "half a mile of the fhore, but we had near fifty fathoms water; fo that it was neceffary to keep under way and wait for a breeze ; and at fix o'clock next morning NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. morning a fine breeze fprung up from the South South c HXA p Weft, with which we run up; and obferving a point — -f well up in an arm of the cove, that promifed good fhelter May! round it, I fent the whale-boat to examine and found the Monday *4' place ; and following with the fhip, I prefently faw that there was an excellent harbour round the point ; therefore ftood in, and at eight o'clock came to anchor with the beft bower in feven fathoms water, over a muddy bottom, and moored with the fmall bower. G g CHAP. XL 1787. May. Tuefday 15. Wednef. 16. A V.OYA '<&& TO THE C H A P. XL Indians <ùifit the Ship with Se@\Otter Skins.—Boats fent on a tracing Exfiédmon.—Plundered by the Mdians.— ■ Return of ' the Boats.—Arrival of the Nootka.—Ajfift in getting her ready for Sea.—Long-boat fent to Cook's River.—Departure of the Nootka.—Long-boat's Return.—Sent a fécond Time.—Vifited by different Tribes of Indians.—Various Employments carried on.—Abundance of Salmon, Herrings, and Crabs.—Arrival of the Long-boat.^—Departure from Port Etches. THOUGH our fituation was a very eligible one, yet I found, on founding around the fhip, that we could have a ftill better birth, by lying higher up the harbour; I therefore determined to fhift about a cable's length further in; but the people being greatly fatigued by towing the veffel all the preceding night, I deferred my defign for the prefent, and gave them leave to take fome reft. In the courfe of the day feveral canoes came along-fide, from whom I purchafed ten or twelve good fea-otter fkins.. Several parts of the harbour appearing likely to afford fome fifh, we hauled the feine frequently, but met with no fuccefs. In the morning of the 16th we hove up the fmall bower, and after hauling the fhip within fkore of the beft bower, let it go again, in five fathoms water over ■I m NORTH WEST COAST OF AM&RICA. 227 1787. May. Wednef. 16. over a muddy bottom^, and moored the fhip head and ijfern. c nA B When moored, we had the Sound open to the South Weft between two points of land, about half a point of the compajs : through which fpace we could fee a®y thing that paffed in or ont of the Sound by Cape Hinchinbrooke paffage. The land all around us had a dreary appearance, being covered with fnow five or fix feet deep, quite down to high water mark; fo that the only fpace where we could walk was on the beach after the t$é|e had fallen. At the head of the harbour were two fine fçeih-water rivulets, likely to produce plenty of fal$@on at a proper feafon. A few of the natives came along-fide with fome good fea-otter fkins, and a fmall quantity of fifh, for which we were obliged to pay extravagantly. In the morning of the i8tfe-1 went in the whale-boat Friday 18. to examine an arm trending to the Eaftward above our prefent harbour. After palling the upper point, I found the arm foon terminated in a flat fhore, with fhoal water at fome diftance from the head of it. I then rowed along the North fhore, and difcovered anCarm leading in between two points, not more than a quarter of a mile diftant from each other. I ftood in for the entrance, and had five and fix fathoms water over a muddy bottom between the two points. The paffage now widened confiderably, and branched out in oppofite directions ; one arm leading nearly South Weft, and the other North Eafl. I went -up the South Weft arm, and carried five and fix fathoms water over a muddy bottom for more than two miles; it then grew flat at a confiderable distance from the head. After founding this arm, I returned with an intention of founding the other; but on getting a fight of the fhip, I ob- '-l- ferved the enfign flying, which was a fignal for canoes G g 2 being VOYAGE TO THE being along-fide: I therefore deferred founding, and rowed immediately for the fhip, where I arrived about noon, and purchafed a few good fkins from the natives. On my inquiring for falmon, they gave me to underftand that there was none at prefent ; but that when the fnow melted from the hills, there would be plenty. As the articles we had to barter with did not feem to be held in great eftimation, I determined to difpatch the whale-boat and yaul, under the direction of Mr. Crefsle- man the fécond mate and Mr. Bryant, on board the Nootka, to requeft of captain Meares fome articles of trade which I wanted, and knew he could well fpare; at the fame time they were to trade with the natives up the Sound if any opportunity offered. I intended to have gone myfelfy or fent Mr. MTeod on this bufinefs; but he had been fo frequently laid up wkh a complaint in4the bladder, that I could neither truft him with the care of the fhip for any length of time, or fend him out with the boats, for fear of his complaint returning at a time when he might be particularly wanted. In the forenoon we had frefh gales from the Eaflward, but the weather growing moderate about two o'clock, I fent the boats'off to proceed up the Sound. We now had no boat left by the fhip, nor any other way of getting on fhore but in the Sandwich Ifland canoe; and fhe being very dangerous for any who did not underftand how to manage her, it became neceffary to contrive fome fafer kind of conveyance. Accordingly the carpenter, affined by the cooper and three other hands, begun to build a punt of twelve feet long, fix feet wide, and about three feet deep. This plan was firft fuggefted by the carpenter, and I approved of it very much, as the punt NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. punt could not fail to be ufeful in wooding and watering whilH the boats were abfent* Next morning feveral canoes came along-fide with a Monday zi. trading party; they brought thirteen very good fea-otter fkins and a few indifferent ones. The harbour affording very fine crabs and muffels, I fent a number of the people to procure fome, and they returned in the evening with a good quantity of each. The weather being moderate, our operations en fhore went brifkly forward; one party were employed in cutting wood, another in fawing plank, and the carpenter,, with his affiflants, were bufy about the punt». In the afternoon of the 2 2d two canoes vifited us and Tuefday22. brought a few good fkins. If I underflood them right, the adjacent country was called Tacklaccimuke, and that it was principally inhabited by a tribe, the name of whofe chief was Nootuck, and the name of another chief belonging to the fame tribe was Coocha. Three canoes belonging to Nootuck's tribe came to the fhip on the 23-d, but brought nothing to fell, excepta Wednef.^ few halibut. Indeed, mofl of the fea-otter fkins we have procured fince our arrival here were green, and recently taken from the animal; fo that we were obliged to flretch and drefs them ourfelves. On the 24th we had ftrong gales from the Eaft by South Thurfday z4. with rain, which prevented any canoes from coming near us. In the afternoon, the carpenter and his party launched the punt, and came on board in her. AVOYAGETOTHE In the forenoon of the 25th the whale-boat returned from the Sound: they had parted with the yaul juft off the North point of the bay. Mr. Crefsleman brought none of the things I fent for to the Nootka except a com- pafs; the other articles, captain Meares aflfared me I fhould have on his joining me near Cape Hinehinbrooke, which he propofed doing as foon as poffible. In the forenoon of the 26th we had a very heavy gale of wind from the Eaftward, and the yaul not maiking her appearance, it gave me great uneafinefs, as> her crew were not only quite expofed to the weather, but might probably be driven out of the Sound and all perifh. Neither could I fend the whale-boat to look for and affifl them, without running a êreat rifk of lofins her crew likewife. At fix o'clock the gale increafing to a violent degree, with confiant rain and fleet, the top-gallant mafts were got down upon deck, and the topmafts ftruck clofe to the rigging. The wind continued blowing very ftrong till fix o'clock in the afternoon of the 27 th, when the weather growing rather moderate, I difpatched the whale-boat in fearch of the yaul, with proper refrefhments for her crew, if they were fortunate enough to meet with her. At nine o'clock both boats came along-fide, and the yaul's crew we're in a much better ftate than I expected to fee them, though they muft have fuffered Very much. The whale-boat met the yaul at the entrance of the bay, making an effort to get in; but it muft have been a fruitlefs one, had they not met and taken them in tow; for the boats were fcarcely got along-fide before it begun to rain and blow as violently as before. Wednef. 30. From this to the 30th, the weather was fo ftrong, that our operations on fhore were greatly retarded, and fcarcely any bufinefs was carried on. During this interval, we had 4 only I NORTH WEST COAST OF; AMERICA. 231 June. Monday 4. only three canoes along-fide, with cod and halibut, fuffi- c HXJA p- cient to ferve the fhip's company one day, and a few to- u ■■--»■—-* lerably good fea-otter fkins. On the 30th the weather May.' growing moderate, the people were fent on fhore to cut 1ne ' 3°" wood and bring off water for prefent ufe. On the 4th June the weather appearing fettled, I difpatched the whale-boat and yaul on a trading expedition, under the direction of Meffrs. Crefsleman and Bryant. I at fir£t intended to have fent them round Cape Hinchin- brooke, and on toward Kayes Ifland; but on fécond çon- fideration I judged it would anfwer my purpofe beft to fend them up an opening fituated between that we lay in, and Snug Corner Cove, by which means they would Hand a chance of obtaining part of the trade intended for the Nootka ; but by going on the other fide, they were likely to meet only with Indians coming to the King George. In the evening I fent a few hands in the canoe to procure fome crabs, and in two hours they returned with a good quantity of fine ones. Juft as night came on, a few Indians came along-fide, bringing fome halibut and cod, but no furs Early the next morning I fent the carpenter with a Tuefdayj. party of men over to the North fhore to cut fome flicks for %are topmafts, a mizen-maft, and a main-yard; another party were employed fawing boards, the cooper brewing fpruce beer, and the remainder of the fhip's company were clearing the gun-room and airing the fails; fome of which had got wet during the late bad weather. On OTS iMih n soma A V O Y AG E T O ^T H E On the 6th, the weather being fine, I fent the boatfwain with four of the people to dig a piece of ground for a garden on a fmall ifland fituated in the entrance of the cove, and which I named Garden Ifland. After the ground was ready, we fowed variety of feeds in it, fuch as cabbage, onion, Scotch kale, radifh, favoy, purflane, thyme, celery, fpinach, cauliflower, turnip, muflard, rape and çrefs, with peas, beans, French beans, and lettuce, befides oats and barley. The foil being tolerably good, it would be rather extraordinary if, among fo great a variety, nothing fhould come to perfection. In the afternoon pf the yth a fmall open canoe, with five Indians in it, came along-fide, from whom I bought two good fea- otter fkins, and a large quantity of fine cod. At ten o'clock in the evening the whale-boat and yaul returned from their expedition with a few very good fkins, which they purchafed of a chief, whofe name was Sheen- aawa, and whom I conjecture to be the fame perfon that paid us a vifit at Montague Ifland. I intended them for a longer trip, but it feems they unluckily got into a large flat bay, where the boats grounded, and before they could extricate themfelves from the fhoals, the tide ebbed, and left them dry for near two miles round. Sheenaawa and his tribe, which confined of near two hundred men, faw their fituation, and paid them a vifit, moft of them armed with fpears and knives. The boats crews at firft were greatly alarmed at their fituation ; but their fears rather iubfifted when they found that plunder was what the Indians wanted. This they endeavoured to prevent, but at the fame time kept their plunderers in good temper^ which 7 was NORTH WEST COAST OF was the moft prudent method the people could poffibly have taken; for had they acted in any other manner, and ftrove to have prevented them from ftealing by force of arms, not a man in either boat could have efcaped the vengeance of their numerous opponents. This plundering party obtained an excellent booty in their own eftimation. They flole moft of the trading articles, two mufquets, two piftols, and fome of the people's clothes; and what old Sheenawaa feemed to regard as a thing of ineflimable value, was Mr. Crefsleman's quadrant, which he feized together with his ephemeris and requifite tables. It was at this time that they purchafed the fkins I have juft mentioned, Sheenaawa's people affecting to traffic as a fort of introduction to their depredations. During this fhort expedition our people had an opportunity of feeing that the land on which Cape Hinchinbrooke is fituated is an ifland. irasE Sunday io. In the afternoon of the Qth, being at Garden Ifland, I faw Saturday 9. the Nootka turning in towards the port, and immediately fent the whale-boat and yaul to her affiftance. At feven o'clock fhe anchored juft without the King George. Two canoes came along-fide in the morning of the ioth with only one fea-otter fkin. The Indians appeared rather fhy on feeing the Nootka, which I cannot account for in any other way than their having fired at fome of the natives juft before they left Sutherland's Cove, and, as I was given to underftand, wounded one of them. In the forenoon captain Mearës came on board the King George, and re- quefted me to fend my carpenter on board his veffel to examine her mafts, pumps, and fides; which requeft I complied with, although he had much work to do on the ■fhip's account. Towards evening I went on fhore to vifit our different parties at work, and had an account from the H h A VOYAGE TO THE carpenter of the fituation he found the Nootka in: her mafts and yards were in good order, but the fides in many parts were dangeroufly open, and her pumps in a very bad condition, not having a fpear, or lower box that would fit either pump, nor even a pump-break fit to work with. Monday u. The next day captain Meares requefled me to let my carpenter work on board the Nootka a few days, in order to put her in a condition fit for fea, which I readily complied with; and thinking the leaks in her fides and the pumps the mofl material objects, I recommended him to have them put in order firfl. The carpenter accordingly went on board, and prefently fent me word that they had no oakum ; on this I gave him directions to make ufe of our own, and by the time he had finifhed, he expended near two hundred weight. The pump geer that wanted armourers work Was fent on board the King George, and I fet the armourer to work about it immediately. I alfo fent a party on fhore to cut wood for the Nootka, and the punt was employed in carrying it on board ; and whenever the weather permitted, the cooper was employed in making fpruce effence for her ufe. In the forenoon the long-boat arrived from Cook's River, and had met with tolerable fuccefs; Meffrs. Hay- ward and Hill affuring me that much more bufinefs might be done in another trip. As foon as the boat was cleared, I ordered her to be fitted out with provifions, and an af- fortment of trade for a' fécond expedition. Mr. Hayward informed me, that on their arrival in Cook's River, foon after getting above Point Bede, they fell in with a party of Kodiac Indians, who they fuppofed were hunting on account of the Ruffians ; but they faw none of the Ruflian a party> NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA party, and the inhabitants of Cook's River behaved m a very friendly manner. The long-boat, being provided with provifions and articles for trade, failed again- for Cook's River early in the morning of the 12th, with pofitive or- Tuefday n. ders to return by the 20th July; and the fame crew that went in her the firft trip, were volunteers to go a fécond time. In the forenoon we faw feveral canoes, one of which went along-fide the Nootka, but the reft kept at a diftance, feeming afraid to come near. Our feamen and artificers were engaged in various employments for the Nootka till the 15th, when a very ftrong Friday iS. gale earning on from the Eaftward with violent guffs of wind from the vallies, and confiant heavy rain, prevented any work from being carried on»- During this interval not one canoe appeared in the Cove. The weather becoming moderate on the 16th, our people refumed their various Saturday 16. employments, and by the 17th had put the Nootka in a Sunday 17. condition fit for fea. Several canoes vifited us, bringing a few indifferent fkins, and fome fine halibut. For fome time paft the weather had in general been very wet, which •affected the health of the failors very much, and many of them were laid up with fevers and violent colds. The Nootka being ready for failing, I fent my whale-boat in the morning of the 19th to aflifl them in getting under Tuefday 19. way, and at one o'clock fhe flood out of the Cove. fpruee-beer was now in good order, and daily ferved out to the fhip's company; and I had the pleafure to find the lick people get confiderably better. The furrounding country now wore a different afpect from what it. did on our firft arrival : the heavy rains had H h 2 melted VOYAGE TO T H E melted moft of the fnow, and every thing feemed to pro- mife the fpeecry approach of fummer.' The furgeon, and thofe people who had lately been ill, took a walk on fhore on the 20th, and gathered a good quantity of water- creffes, which they found growing near the frefh-water rivulets. We caught plenty of flounders along-fide with hook and line: thefe, with crabs, which were now very fine, proved an excellent change from fait provifions. Some of the people in fifhing along-fide for flounders caught feveral cod and halibut. On this I fent the canoe on the 2 2d out fome diftance into the bay to try for them, and they foon returned with a load of fine halibut and cod. This fuccefs induced me to fend her out frequently with a fifhing party, and they caught considerably more than what was fufficient for daily confumption ; fo that I ordered the remainder to be faked for fea flore. In the afternoon a Sunday 24. ians vifited us, from whom I bought fome good fea-otter fkins. They pointed towards the South Weft, and gave me to underftand that we might procure plenty of good furs from that quarter. This piece of information determined me to fend the boats on another expedition, and in the afternoon of the 24th I difpatched the whale-boat and yaul on a trip to the South Weft part of the Sound with provifions for a month, and a proper affortment of trade. All the remaining part of the fhip's company that could be fpared had leave given to recreate themfelves on fhore. Some of them afcended the higheft hills in the neighbourhood, on the fides of which they found good quantities of fhake-root, and a variety of flowers in full bloom. About eight o'clock in' the evening I obferved two Indian boats and feveral canoes come into the bay: they all landed on a fandy beach, 5 which M NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. which bore Weft South Weft from the fhip, and about three miles and a half diftant. n7 1787. Tune. Next morning at five o'clock our new vifiters came Monday 25-. along-fide in one of their large boats ; the party confifled of about twenty-five men, women, and children. Their chief appeared to be a well-difpofed man, rather low in ftature, with a long beard, and feemed about fixty years of ao-e :. he was entirely difabjed on one fide, probably by a paralytic ftroke. The old man made me a prefent of a good fkin, but had little to fell except a few falmon, which we bought of him. I made the chief, whofe name I underflood was Taatucktellingnuke, a prefent, -and one to each of thofe who feemed to be of confequence ; I alfo diftributed fome trinkets among the women and children. Taatucktellingnuke gave me ta underftand that the country he came from was called Cheeneecock, and fituated in the South Weft part of the Sound. Our new friends ftaid along-fide during the whole day, and went on fhore in the evening, perfectly well fatisfied. I found the whole of this party very friendly and well difpofed ;; and indeed moft of thofe who had vifited us were fo ; particularly the natives belonging to Tacklaccimute, who I am inclined to think inhabit Comptroller's Bay, and the Shucklamute people, who take up their abode in the North fide of Montague Ifland. I learned from my late vifiters that the country where Sheenawaa and his tribe take up their refidence, is called Taaticklagmute ; that they were the moft powerful tribe about m 1 \m A VOYAGE TO THE about the Sound, and hated by all their neighbours, with whom they were continually at variance. Old Shenawaa, fincè his plundering our boats, had never appeared in the harbour ; but fome of his people fometimes brought us a few fea-otter fkins, which they had obtained either by plunder or barter ; for I underflood that- his country does not produce any of the fea-otter ; but they have abundance of river-otter. Tacklaccimute, Shucklamute, and Wal- laamute, are the countries that afford the fea-otter. This laft-mentioned place, from every information I have been able to obtain, is fituated considerably beyond Comptroller's Bay to the Eaftward ; and we have feen none of the inhabitants ; but the Indians that have traded with us, frequently brought fkins which they faid came from that country; and I always obferved that none of thofe fkins were marked, as is the ufiial cuftom when they are intended for fale, but made up into cloaks, and worn by the people, to defend them from the inclemency of the weather. Sheenawaa (whofe rapacious difpofition has already been noticed), whilft the Nootka wintered in Sutherland's Cove, fent frequent meffages, intimating that he intended to come and cut them off. Thefe meflages, or rather threats, were always delivered to an Indian girl that an officer belonging to the Nootka had purchafed on their firft arrival in the Sound.v This girl made her efcape from the Nootka towards the latter part of the winter, and probably gave the Indians an account of her weak and de- fencelefs fituation ; for there is hardly a doubt, from the number of men that Sheenawaa had with him at the time of NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 239 of the affair with our boats, that he then meditated an c HVTA p- attack on the Nootka ; but very bad weather, coming on immediately afterwards, probably fruftrated his defign. xi. 1787. June. Monday 25-, The party who were daily fent out to fifh for cod and halibut had their hooks and lines often broken by large, ground-fharks ; feveral of thefe were killed, but they were of no ufe, their livers yielding fcarcely any oil. Taatùcktellingnuke paid me a vifit on the 26th, Tuefday 26, and was particularly anxious to take one or two of our people with him on fhore to fpend the night, offering at the fame time to leave fome of his people on board as hoftages till their return. I complied with this lingular requeft, and gave two of the-people leave to accompany him on fhore; he left three of his tribe on board, being de- firous to convince me that he intended no harm. Early the next morning the friendly old chief came Wednef, on board in one of his boats, and brought our people with him. After we had exchanged hoflages, I made the old man and his companions fome trifling prefents, and they went on fhore highly pleafed. pp I found that thefe Indians lodged in temporary huts, compofed only of a few flicks and a little bark ; the principal part of their food was fifh ; by way of variety they ate the inner rind of the pine-bark dried ; but their greatefl luxury was a kind of rock-weed covered with the fpawn of fome fifli or- other, of which they gather and eat great quantities : they alfo eat the inner rind of the angelica and hemloc roots, which, though poifon to us, by confiant A VOYAGE TO THE c HvrA p- Hant and habitual ufe become to them familiar and fer- viceable. In hauling the feine on the 30th, we caught a large quantity of herrings and fome falmon ; the herrings, though fmall, were very good, and two hogfheads of them were faked for fea-Hore. Old Taatùcktellingnuke took leave of me on the ifl of July, and with his tribe left the harhour and paddled towards Montague Ifland. At noon on the 6th the whale-boat and yaul returned from their expedition without the leaft fuccefs, not having feen a fingle canoe during their trip. Their route was from our harbour towards Montague Ifland, and from thence over to the South Weft part of the Sound ; having my directions, if they found it could be done without much rifk, to look into an opening that is fuppofed to lead from the Sound into Cook's River, through the river Turnagain. On getting over on the South Weft fhore, they met with great quantities of drift-ice, coming, as they fuppofed, out of that opening, and at the fame time heard a confiant jumbling noife refembling the breaking up of ice in a large river. Foggy weather now coming on, the officer who had charge of the boats did not think it prudent to venture in with them, but fpent the night near that fituation, and the morning beino- ftill foggy, he directed his courfe to the North, and came back by Snug Corner Cove, without (as I have before obferved) meeting with any Indians whatever. Be 1 NG NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Being now convinced that little or nothing could be doncb^ fending the boats on another expedition,- and expecting the long-boat's return in a few days, after which I intended to get to fea as quick as poffible ; I fet all hands to work in getting the fhip ready ; a large party were, fent on fhore to cut wood, and others were employed about the rigging. We' daily caught large quantities of falmon, but the unfettled ftate of the weather not permitting us to cure them on board, I fent the boatfwain with a party on fhore Saturday? to build a kind of houfe to fmoke them in. On the 9th Monday I the houfe was finifhed, and the boatfwain with his party were employed in fmoking falmon ; there was fufficient room to hang fix hundred fifh up conveniently; and feven fires being conftantly burning, they were cured very well. In the forenoon one canoe came along-fide with two very good frocks madgjof fea-otter fkins. The people -gave me to underftand that they had been to Wallaamute, and purchafed the frocks at that place, which I had no reafon to doubt ; as I recollected feeing them about the fhip near a month before this time, fince which they never made their appearance until now, H§ The feine was frequently hauled on the nth, and not Wednef.us lefs than 2000 falmon were caught at each haul ; the weather, however, preventing us from curing them fo well as could have been wifhed, we kept only a fufficient quantity for prefent ufe, and let the reft efcape. The falmon were now in fuch numbers along the fhores, that any quantity whatever might be caught with the greatefl eafe. I i During mmjiiuiiMUUuuiamiJMfiwwM^" If M P '» i242 C7 H A T. XL 17*7.- July. A VOYAGE TO THE During the 12th and 13th the wind blew very ftrong and in violent gulls from the Eaftward, with confiant heavy fain, which prevented any work from going forward. Frid^.12" Toward* afternoon on fhe 14th, the Weather growing nio- saturday 14. derate, the people refumed their different employment»n Saturday 2i. In the morning of the 2ifl I went in the whale-boat into a fmall bay about three miles from the fhip, on the South fide of the harbour, where fomê days before I dif- êovëred a quantity of fiîie watetcteffes. The weather be- feig tolerably fine, I took the'carpenter (who lately had been-very ill) arid a few others in the boat along withdne, that they might have a Walk, and receive fome tefrefhmeilt from the watercreKes, This little excuffioflriad a wonder+- fûlly good effect on every one. We fat down on the grafs, and made â hearty dinner of fried pork and falmoii* and* by Way of fâlfed, had an abuifdaace of watëfcreffes ; we iiktwife gathered a fuflleiiaJt iiijuantity to fetve every perfo& Oli board. Behind the beach where -we landed is a frefli*- water lake, ^fet empties&felf into^the bay by a fmall diver at the Northern part of the beach, in w4flch there was abundance of falmon. Juft above the beach, between the bay and the lake, there was à piece of wild whiât, abottt two hundred yards long and five yards wide, growing at feaft two feet high, aih.mg which we found the water- creffes. This wheat with proper care might cetftaikly be itôade an ufeful article of food. On the edpe of the lake I faw the track of an animal which greatly refembled that of the moofe-deer. We returned on board in the evening wjftkout feeing any Indians. A' 243 HAP. XI. 1787. July. anday Z2„ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. At ten o'clock in the morning of the 2 2d, the longboat appearing in fight, I fent the whale-boat to her affiftance if it fhould be neceffary ; at noon fhe came along- fide, and I found ail the crew in good health. In this trip they had experienced a great deal of very bad weather, and had not met with fuch good fuccefs as we expected ; their purchafes being about forty prime fkins and a number of inferior ones. They fell in with numbers of the Kodiac Indians, who always behaved in the moft friendly manner, as did all the inhabitants of the river. During this expedition they were up about a league above Trading Bay, on the oppofite fhore, where they found good and fafe anchorage for fnipping, and a greater number of inhabitants than in any other part of the river. Having clear pleafant weather on the 23d, the powder Monday z3. was fent to Garden Ifland to be dried and fifted, and the cooper was employed in repairing the cafks which were defective: a party were employed in getting fire-wood on board, and others in getting the fhip ready for fea. In the afternoon of the 24th our wooding and watering was completed, and Tuefday 24. every thing from the fhore was got on board. We lopped off all the branches off the higheft tree on Garden Ifland, and fixed a ftaff about ten feet long at the top, with a wooden- vane on it, and near the bottom was infcribed the Chip's name, with the year and day of the month. Every tMng being ready'for fea at fix o'clock, we unmoored and hove fhort on the beft bower ; but it being then calm, we could not proceed out of the port. However, at two o'clock the next morning a breeze fprung up from the wednef. «j Eaftward, with which we weighed and got under fail, and by four, being clear of the Cove, the boats were hoifted in. iPr Ii mm HRTRT THE CHAP. XII. Range along the Coaft of Mo?ttague Ifland.—Short Account of Prince William's Sound.—Defcription of the Inhabitants. — Their Perfons. — Manners. — Drefs.— Difeafes.—Ornaments.—Food.-*—Cookery.—Situation for a Settlement.—produce.—Weapons.—Hunting Implements.-—Specimen of their Language.—Proceed along the Coaft.—Anchor in Portlock's Harbour.—Intercourfe with the Natives .——Long-boat fent on a trading Expedition.—Vifited by a diftant Tribe of Indians. N quitting the harbour (which obtained the name of Port Etches) I at firft intended to fland out of the Sound by "way of Cape Hinchinbrooke; but on opening Wednef. 25. tjiat paflage, the weather looked very thick and dirty to the South Eaft ; fo that I came to the refolution of pufh- ing for the paffage on the Weft fide of Montague Ifland ; knowing that with a Southerly wind we might get good and fafe anchorage in that paflage ; but fhould we be taken on the Eaftern fide of Montague Ifland, with a Southerly or South Eafl wind, which in general brings dirty weather with it, we probably might be thrown into a very dangerous fituation. I therefore fhaped a courfe for the North point of Montague Ifland, with a frefh breeze at Eaft North Eaft. At feven o'clock we paffed two bays, fituated on the North Eaft point of the ifland, both of which are noticed in Mr. Edgar's chart. In the after noon H> C H A E Xll. Wednef. 25, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. noon we had light variable winds inclining to calm ; and at four o'clock the bay we firft anchored in on coming up this paflage bore South half Weft, four leagues diftant. I was very defirous to make that bay before night came on, as the weather began to look very unfettled ; but the wind now fhifted to South South Weft, which was directly againft us. At feven o'clock the wind frefhened,. and brought with it very thick rainy weather ; fo that we could fcarcely - fee the land, though not more than five miles from it. Not liking the appearance of the weather, I ftood over for a paffage between Foot Ifland and the land to the Weftward of it. Through this paffage our longboat had generally failed in going to and returning from Cook's River ; and they had named it the Prince of Wales's Paflage. As Mr. Hay ward informed me there was good anchorage in it, I was very defirous of getting in before worfe weather came on ; therefore, with a frefh breeze from the South South Weft, I ftood directly for it ; but on opening the paffage at eight o'clock, I found the wind blowing directly down it, and a ftrong tide letting againft us ; fo that we were obliged to fpend the night in plying between Montague and Foot lfknd.. We plied occafionally till noon- on the 26th, when a Thurfday26. light breeze coming on from the Northward, we flood down the channel. At four o'clock the wind hauled round to the South Wefl ; Hanning's Bay at that time being under our lee, we bore up and run for it ; and at feven o'clock came to anchor in that Bay in fixteen fathoms water, over a bottom of coarfe fand. We weighed anchor again at eight o'clock next morning, and the wind Friday. 2,^. heing light, the boats were fent a-head to tow the fhip. At. «MB m im Saturday -Sunday 29. A VOYAGE T O :!T H E At noon a frefh breeze came on from the South South Weft ; which being directly againft us, we ftood in again, and at one o'clock came to anchor near our former fituation. There being no probability of ;étir getting out to fea that afternoon, I went on fhore, accompanied by Mefls. Hayward, Hill, end Bryant, in the whale-boat and yawl ; and near a frefh-water creek wfiidh lies in the Southern part of the bay, we hauled the feine, and caught a quantity of falmon fufficient to load both the boats, and afterwards returned on board. During the -28th the wind continued to blow frefli from the South Soutfh Weft, whiêh kept us at anchor ; but at feven o'clock the next morning a light breeze ïpringmg up from the Northward, we weighed, and with the boats a-head towed out of the bay. Tîie wind pre- fently fhifted to the Southward, which greatly retarded our progrefs, and at fix o'clock in the afternoon the ebbtide being done, we anchored in the South bay in twenty- four fathoms water, over a bottom of muddy fand. Monday 30. light breeze corning At four 0*clock next morning a on from the Eaftward, we weighed and got under fail. At fix o'clock, however, the ebb being done, and the wind hauling to the Southward, we were obliged to anchor in twenty-one fathoms water, over a blackj fancfe bottom ; the South point of the bay bearing South three quarters Weft, two miles, and the South point of fome low land lying off the entrance into the Prince of Wales's Paffage Weft by South, three leagues diftant. In this fituation it was low-water at 6h 45*, the-moon if j.411 old. Soon after we arrived in the bay, three of our old acquaintance NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 247 quaint^jace from Cj^eneecock came alqng-ftde in two c ILA p- canoes ; they were out on a J£unting expedition, and" had V"*^"—' three very good fea-otter fkins, which I bought, and made July.' them a trifling prefent. At noon we weighed and came on ay 3°* to fail with a light breeze from the South South.. Eaft. At four o'clock the South Weft point of Montague Iflknd bore South Eaft, two leagues diftant : being men about two miles from fhore^- we founded in fixty-three fathoms. water, over a muddy bottom. At feven o'clock* ebfery** ing that we began to lofe ground y^rVfaff, although thejà was a two-knot breeze from the Weft. South Weil, with which we flood to the South South Eaft, we prepared for anchoring, and foon afterwards came-to in fixty-five fathoms water, over a muddy bottom, with the kedge and a hauler ; the South Weft point of Montague Ifland bear- ingraft three quarters South, five miles, and the North poinjt of Foot Ifland North by Eaftj four or five leagues diflant. I fuppofe the flood to have made foon after fix o'clock, and come from the South Eaft half South, at the rate of three miles an hour : it fet directly towards the entrance of the Princg-of Wales's Paffage. At nine o'clock the tide made ftill ftronger, and though we had our fails fet, wiijt a gentle breeze from the Northward, the kedge came home ; on this, we bent another haufer,. and veered it to the better end, which rode the fhip ; the tide now going at the rate of three miles and an half an hour. The flood being done at one in the morning, Tuefday j*v we weighed, and came to fail : prefently afterwards a fine breeze fprung up from the Weft South Weft, with which we fleered to the Southward ; and at four o'clock were well clear of the land, the South Wefl point of Montague Ifland bearing North North Eafl half Eafl, three leagues,.. ; a and m mn ni 24S' C'H A xri. Tuefday 3 A VOYAGE TO THE p' ari<Ç tlfe Weflernmofl land in fight Wefl half South, fix- teen or feventeen leagues diflant. As we are now taking our leave of Prince WilliamV Sound, enough the publication /©¥ captain Cook's and other voyages hath obviated the neceffky of a copious d&~+ fcription of the natives, their manners, -Cuftoms, &c. and the produce of/their country, yet a few particulars may be felected from what hath hitherto come under general obfervation, which ''&! a:frorW0ther' reader fatisfaction ; as they are the teroitJoT^\ery clofe attentiorf^athd minute remarks on theiPlJehaviour and general conduct:. These people are for the mofl paft-fhort in Hature, and fquare-rfnade rMl f their faces, men and women Pare in general flat and round, with high cheek-bones andlfiattifh nc;fes; their teetfiçare very good and whitè^' eyes dark£ tjuick of fight; their fmell very good, and which they quicken, by fmelling at the fnake-root parched. As to their complexions, they are generally lighter than the- Southern Indians, and fome of their Women I have feen with rofy cheeks; their hair is black and flraight, and they are fond of having it long: but on the death of a friend they cut it fhort, to denote them tp be in mourning; nor have I ever obferved that they have any other way to mark their forrow and concern for their relations. The men have generally bad ill-fhaped legs, which I attributed to their fitting in one confiant pofition in their canoes. They feem poffefled of as great a fhare of pride and vanity as Europeans; for they often paint the face and hands, their ears and nofes bored, and the underlip flit. In the hole in the nofe they hang an ornament (as they deem it) made of 2 * bone NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 249 CHAP. XII. 1787, bone or ivory two or three inches long. At the ears they moftly wear beads hanging down to the fkoulder, and in the flit in the lip they have a bone or ivory infiniment fitted r with holes in it, from which they hang beads as low as the ue* ay 3l' chin. Thefe holes in the lip disfigure them very much, fome of them having it as large as their mouth. But with all this fancied finery they are remarkably filthy in their perfons, and not frequently fluffing their garments, they are generally very loufy; and in times of fcarcity thofe vermin probably ferve them as an article of food ; for I have feen them pick, and eat to the number of a dozen or more; and they are not very fmall. Their clothing confifls wholly of the fkins of animals and birds. I mufl do them the juflice to fay, that we in general found them very friendly; and they appear fo remarkably tender and affectionate to their women and children, that you cannot pleafe them more than in making them fmall prefents: but carry your attention to their women no farther, for nothing gives them greater difpleafure than taking liberties with them. Another very prevalent inclination is that of thieving; which is by no means peculiar to them, but is equally to be feen in all other Indians, not only from ftrangers, but from one another. I have frequently, in the courfe of my trading with them, feen them Heal from one another, and on being detected, they will give up the articles they have flolen with a laugh, and immediately appear as unconcerned as if nothing had happened amifs. I -am fure that with them thieving with dexterity is rather thought a grace than a difgrace; and the complete thief is a clever fellow, but the bungling pilferer is lefs admired. You may generally know the man who comes as a profeffed thief, for his face will be K k all' m'm yiMimuu THE all daubed with paint ; and whilfl you,may be viewing the curious figure he cuts with his painted face, you may be fure that his hands are not idle, if there is any thing near him worth fleaKng: and whenever you fee the arn% flipt from out the fleeve of the frock of fkins which they always wear, you may be well affured that the perfon is intent on thieving; and they always conceal the articles they have flolen under their frock, until they have an opportunity of flowing them away in their canoes; but not- withflanding our knowing the profeffed thief, and all our vigilance, they frequently flole little things from us, but of no confequence. During our intercourfe with them they grew lefs addicted to thieving, in confequence of my fbmetimes appearing a fittle angry with them, and taking fome pains to convince them of the impropriety of their behaviour. Upon the whole, they appear a good kind of people, and I am convinced in a little time, provided a fettlement of fufficient Hrength were eflablifhed, would be an induftrious fet of people in hunting and procuring the fea-otter and other fkins for fale to the fettlers. The weaker tribes, I think, are frequently robbed and plundered by the ftronger, and prevented from hunting, which would not be the cafe, weie there a proper fettlement eflablifhed in fome convenient place, for that would give protection to the whole of the inhabitants of this Sound : and indeed I believe from this to King George's Sound they are by no means fo numerous as was in general fuppofed, therefore not fo dangerous to fettlers. I think this Sound, and as far as Comptrollers Bay, would not mufter three hundred fighting fnen; and Cook's River, according to Mr. Hill's ob- fervation, could not mufter much above that number; and the whole of thefe people Hand fo much in awe of fire- i arms, M IvHl NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. «cms, that a few men well provided would be perfectly fecikre; and were I to advife a place for wintering at and forniing a fettlement, it fhould be the Weft harbour of Port Etches. It hath feveral advantages over any place I have feen on- the coaft ; one of them is, that it lies fo near die fea; that in all probability it would be one of the laft places that would freeze, and one of the firft in which the ice would break up. In the next place, you would be much fheltered by the high land lying to the Eaftward and Northward from the bleak winds in the winter, and you have all the Southern afpect open over the low land, which lies to the Southward of you : which land in a little time might be turned to very ufeful purpofes in railing articles of food for the fettlers. You might fee from this fituation the paffage from the fea, and a great part of the Sound. The country around, after the fnow leaves it, which is about the middle of June, is pleafant enough; the weather is at times, long before that period, very fine and pleafant, and at other times exceedingly boifterous, with confiant rain, which wafhes in a fhort rime great quantities of the fhow away, foon leaves the lower parts clear, and you immediately perceive the vegetables coming forth. 2$\ C H i__ 1787 July. Tuefday 3*« #"J This country abounds in trees of the pine kind, fome very large, a good quantity of alder, a kind of hazel, but not larger than will- do for making hand-fpikes. The fruit bufhes are in great abundance, fuch as bilberry bufhes, rafpberry bufhes, ftrawberries, alderberry bufhes, and currant bufhes red and black. The vegetables are water- creffes, wild celery, four dock, fhepherds purfe, angelica, hemloc, and wild peas. We did not fee any wild onions Kk 2 in A VOYAGE TO THE in Cook's River. Befides the above-mentioned vegetables, they have the wild onion ; unfortunately none of our feed that was fown on the little ifland came to any thing ; I am much afraid the greatefl part of it was fpoiled from age, being before we left England near a twelvemonth old. I fowed fome in different parts about the country ; perhaps fome of it might thrive. The berries were none of them on our failing fit for gathering, but Would in a little time be quite ripe ; and I am fure any quantity of them might be gathered for a winter's flock. We made ufe of the alder buds when they were tender as greens, and when boiled they eat very well. All hands partook of them one day for dinner ; but they had a ftrange effect; not a perfon on board but what was phyficked in a moft extraordinary degree. On fome it aéted as an emetic as well as a purge; it kept us going for about thirty-fix hours, when it flopped, leaving us all fomewhat lighter than we were. This bout prevented me from fending the boats on a trading expedition two days longer than I intended. The buds of the young black currant bufhes we made ufe of as tea, with the pine-tops mixed,., which drank very pleafant. The articles of food of the inhabitants are fifn and animals of all kinds, of which they eat very heartily when they have it in their power; they eat the vegetables which the country affords, and the inner bark of the pine tree, which in the fpring of the year muft be of infinite fervice in recovering them from the feurvy ; with which difeafe I am apt to think they are much. afflicted during the winter; having feen many of them with fwollen legs and fores, which I am pretty certain proceeded from that difeafe : as the fummer advanced we faw little of thofe appearances. They never practife the method of fmoking their NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. their provifions, and, for want of fait, have no other way of curing their winter flock of fifh than drying it in the fun; their frefh fifh they generally roafl, by running fome flicks through to fpread it, and clapping it up before the fire. Their animal food they generally drefs in bafkets or wooden veffels, by putting to it red hot ftones until the victuals are dreffed enough ; and it is furprifing how quick they drefs their provifions in this way. During the fummer feafon they lead a ftrange Wandering life, and the fhelter they live under in bad weather,, when from home, is either their canoes or fmall fheds, made of a few flicks covered with a little bark ; their winter habitations are alfo very ill made and inconvenient ; thofe I have feen are not more than from four to fix feet high, about ten feet long, and about eight feet broad, built with thick plank, andthe crevices filled<up with dry mofs ; and in thofe houfes they generally flow very thick. The method they ufe in making plank is, to fplit the trees with wooden or Hone wedges ; and I have feen a plank twenty or twenty-five feet long, fplit from a tree by their method. Their weapons for war are fpears of fixteen or eighteen feet long, headed with iron; bows and arrows, and long knives | all of which they are amazingly dexterous in ufing. Their fifhing implements are wooden hoots, with lines made of a fmall kind of rockweed, which grows to a confiderable length, and will hold a good Hrain, if kept clear of hinks, and properly moiftened. With thefe hooks and lines they catch" halibut and cod; falmon they catch in wiers, or fpear them ; and herring I believe they catch with fmall nets : the implements with which they kill o ■ the h a XII. 1787. July. Tuefday 31, 14JUUJIM)IWJiL'»lMJHMMMJJlBggaaagatAlUJCUilll3 I If fi,il'' ^54 chap. XII. ^7^7^ J"iy. Tuefday 31, A VOYAGE TO THE the fea-otter and other amphibious animals are harpoons made with bone, with two or more barbs; with a ftaff of about fix or eight feet long, on which is faftened a fkin or large bladder well blown, as a buoy ; and darts of about three or four feet long, which they throw with a wooden Inftrument of about a foot long. I omitted in its proper place to mention, that at the South part of the little bay where we found the water- creffes, we faw a tree with an infcription on it ; the characters, fome were of opinion, were Creek; but for my own part I could not make out what moft of them were; they were badly cut. It appeared to me as if the infcription had been made in the latter part of the laft year, and I am of opinion by a man who fome time after the JSfootka's arrival left herf-îMs man is a native of one of the iflands in the Mediterranean ; and it fhould feem was drove from the Nootka by bad ufage, and I believe is ftill .among the Indians. In regard to the dialect: of thefe people, it may be proper to introduce a few fpecimens, though it appeared to be fuch a confufed, unintelligible jargon, that it was not without fome difficulty that we could collect: thefe in- ftances : Nootuch Cocha Nus-coofc^eelick Nefqueluck Abagack ±a principal chiefs name of ïack-lacumute, a friendly tribe about Comptrollers Bay, the beft traders about the Sound, and bring moft Jea-otter fkins. a chief of ditto. a ditto of Montague Ifland, called by the natives Shuklake-, a friendly tribe. This chief changed names with me. a ditto ditto ditto. a ditto ditto ditto. Sha-newten Sha-newten Waallamute fthkaa Kaa-naa Taa-koo Nelltoolee Yaa-mack Congaanacl- Onaakaa Pha-nee-cook Cau-nuck Muck Taa-tuck-tell-ingnuke She-ne-waa Gauriuck Naa-taakie Naa-go-wack-tooke Cus-kuck, cr Nus-kuck Coo-lin Naa-nuck Auckluck Maajack Ingite Caapuckaa Taakenooke Seeme Chilha Ugaanuck Yaagala Naatunafuck Naatunamoughtaa Luckluck Yauna Yautka Chetleugh Peeduck Peeduck Naatunafuck Lawle to fleep. a country to the É. N. E. of Port Etches, to get up after fie eping. to take, to bring, a toe or iron, beads. a marmot's fkin. /now. d tribe to the South Weft part of T rince William's Sound-, a friendly tribe, fire, water, chief of Cha-nee-cock, a country to the South Weft of Prince William's Sound; a friendly tribe; not many fkins. chief of T'aa tick-lag-mute, a country to the Weft North Weft from Port Etches ; a very troublefome tribe -9 abundance of river-otter, but few fea-otter fkins. fhore. Jhow, according to Shee-na-waa's tribe. wood. chief, ten. twenty. wind. *^J fun. ground on Jhore. river otter, let me look at ii. rain. a child. a woman, good, or handfome. fea-otter. young fea-otter. a bear. yonder. gone away, no no. all gone, I have no more. I have no more fea-otter fkins. \ friend/hip. At the fame time they extend their arms. and repeat the word Lawle frequently; and to Signify that you are a friend, you muft do the fame. Auguft. Friday 3. Saturday 4. Sunday j. Monday 6. A VOYAGE TO THE After getting well clear of the paffage into Prince William's Sound, we fleered Eafl South Eafl, with a light breeze from the Weftward and pleafant weather; but the wind afterwards hauling to the Southward, we fleered to the Eaft by North. The 3d Auguft being remarkably fine, the failors hammocks were got upon deck ; the fhip was fcraped fore and aft, and fprinkled with vinegar, and well aired with fires. The mean refult of feveral obferved diftances of the fun and moon taken on the 4th gave 138° 20' longitude; The .latitude at that time was 570 12' North. At three o'clock we faw the land, bearing North by Weft, and more than twenty leagues diftant, which we took for Mount Fairweather. The wind now fhifted to the Eaftward, and continued fome time from that quarter, which prevented us from making any great progrefs towards Cape Edgecombe. However, as we could fetch fomething to the Eaftward and Southward of Mount Fairweather, I determined to try for a port near the fituation in which captain Cook places Crofs Sound, although we were not fortunate enough to fall in with that place laft feafon. At four o'clock in the afternoon of the 5th Mount Fair- weather bore North io° Weft, near twenty leagues diftant. This mountain, -or rather ridge of mountains, as it forms into feveral, is by far the higheft land on this parc of the coaft ; much loftier than Mount Edgecombe ; and I think nearly the height of Mount St. Elias. At fix o'clock the appearance of an opening prefented itfelf, bearing North io° Eaft; and having then a light breeze from North Weft by Weft, we flood in for it. Next morning at four o'clock w NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. o'clock Mount Fairweather bore North Weft by Weft, twelve leagues diftant. What was taken for a wide opening in the land on the preceding evening now appeared to be joined by low land, as we could from the maft- head fee the low land extending from fide to fide, and no good appearance of an harbour. Indeed, our diftance from the land was fo great, that we could not determine this point with certainty ; but as the wind was now rather fcant for proceeding in towards the place where we had fuppofed the opening to be, and a fine wind for running towards Cape Edgecombe, I defifted from ftand- ing any further in the North North Eaft direction, and edged away to the Eaft North Eaft, with an intention of getting pretty well in fhore, in order to look for a harbour, as we ftood towards the Cape. At ten *S7 C H A XII. 1787. Auguft. Monday 6. o'clock we faw an opening in the land bearing North Eaft, which promifed well for a good harbour. On running in for it, another good appearance of an harbour prefented itfelf, bearing North by Eaft, and feems to be fituated about eight leagues to the South Eaft of Crofs Cape. All the land next the fea, beginning about eight leagues to the South Eaft of Crofs Cape, and trending to within ten leagues of Cape Edgecombe, feems to be compofed of low woody iflands, among which there appear feveral places of good fhelter. The inland country forms into a number of peaked hills, fome well wooded, and others quite bare. On drawing near the opening, and about two miles from the fhore to the North Weft of it, we had twenty and twenty-five fathoms water over a muddy bottom, and juft in the entrance were fome high barren rocks. A large -Indian boat came out, probably to view the fhip : there were twelve people in her, and only three LI of WM m A VOYAGE TO THE C ^n P' °^ tnem men> tne Te& women and children. On getting into the entrance of the paflage, which is about a mile rofs, we deepened the water to thirty fathoms over a fandy bottom, the barren rocks juft mentioned forming the South fide; the Northern fide is lowland, forming itfelf into feveral fmall bays, from whofe points are breakers at no great diftance. About half a mile within the barren rocks we had thirty fathoms water over a rocky bottom, which depth and bottom we carried at leaf! a mile farther, fleering North Eafl by Eaft, which is nearly the courfe into the harbour. The paflage fo far is nearly a mile acrofs, with bold rocky fhores on each fide. Prefently afterwards we fhoaled the water to ten fathoms, being then in the narrowefl part of the channel, which in that fituation is not more than half a mile acrofs, formed on the Northern fide by fome bold rocks, and to the Southward by a bluff point of land ; to the Eaftward of which, a fmall diftance from the fhore, are fome rocks that juft fhew themfelves above water. Immediately on pafling thefe rocks we deepened the water very quick, having from thirty to forty fathoms ; and a moft fpacious and excellent harbour opened itfelf to our view, trending to the North Weft and South Eaft, and running deep into the Northward, with a number of fmall iflands fcattered about. We run up towards the North Weft part of the harbour, and after paffing a fmall ifland near the North fhore covered with, trees, we anchored about noon with the final! bower in thirty-one fathoms water over a muddy bottom, and moored with the beft bower to the Eaftward, entirely land-locked; the rocks lying in the inner part of the paflage, juft fhut in with the fmall ifland already men-, tioned, and bearing South three or four miles diftant. 4 Soon NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Soon after we were moored, the Indian boat, which had followed us in, came along-fide, and the people gave us a fong in the ufual Indian manner. I found their language totally different from that fpoken by the natives in Prince William's Sound; but they extended their arms as a token of peace, nearly the fame as thofe people. Their boat was the body of a large pine tree, neatly excavated, and tapered away towards the ends, until they came to a point, and the fore-part fomewhat higher than the after- part; indeed, the whole was finifhed in a neat and very exact manner. I made my new vifiters a few trifling prefents, and inquired for the fea-otter fkin, by the name it bears at Prince William's Sound; but they not underftand- ing me, I fhewed them a fea-otter fkin, and made figns for them to bring me fome, which they feemed inclined to do. They were ornamented with beads of various forts, and had fome other » articles, which induced me to think that the Queen Charlotte had touched near this neighbourhood on her way to King George's Sound, particularly a tin kettle and fome towes, exactly the fame fort as ours. They made me underftand by figns, that the veffel from which they procured thofe articles had been in a port to the Eaftward of Cape Edgecombe, and defcribed her as having two mafts. . This little information led me to think that poffibly the Queen Charlotte might ftill be fome- 'where about the Cape; and as I before had formed an intention of fending the long-boat on a trading expedition, I determined to fit her out with all poffible difpatch, and accordingly I ordered a proper affortment of trade to be p-ot ready, and fix weeks provifions of all kinds that the fhip afforded. The-Indians, after receiving a few pre- L 1 2 fents, '59 c H A XII. v ~—p 1787. Auguft. Monday 6. P CH H liRlIP ml q6o H If •nisi wail C H XII 1787. Auguft. Monday 6. A VOYAGE TO THE A p* fents, left the fhip and went on fhore, .where they remained a fhort time, and then returned with a few good dry fea-otter fkins. I took notice that thefe Indians were not fb particular in drefling or ftretching their fkins as the inhabitants of Prince William's Sound and Cook's River; neither were any of them marked with paint, as if intended for a market, which is the general practice in the Sound and River, I fhewed a man in the boat, who appeared to be the chief, a marked fkin, and he immediately knew (probably by the mark) what country it came from, and defcribed the inhabitants as having their under lips flit, and wearing ornaments in them. He alfo deferibed their canoes, with their method of paddling; and on being fhewn a model of the Prince William's Sound canoes, he gave me to underftand that it was the fame fort with thofe he had been defcribing. I. learned that they had an intercourfe with the natives of Prince William's Sound ; in the courfe of which, quarrels often arofe, and battles frequently enfued ; and one of the men fhewed me a deep wound near his lip, which he received in an engagement with them. That thefe people have communication with each other, is pretty certain ; and I am apt to think that this part of the coaft, and farther on to the North Weft, is the country which the inhabitants of the Sound call Wallamute; as I few two daggers in the pofîèffion of two men belonging to old Sheena- waa's tribe, which were made exactly in the fame manner as thofe worn by the natives at this place, and they gave me to underftand that they had bought them at Wallamute. The daggers which the people hereabouts ufe in battle are made to flab with either end, having three, four. fr NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. four, or five inches above the hand tapered to a fharp point; but the upper part of thofe ufed in the Sound and River is excurvated. Towards evening our vifiters prepared to go on fhore; but, by way of fecuring my friendfhip, were defirous to leave one of their party on board for the night, and take one of our people with them on fhore» ' As they feemed to betray neither a mifchievous nor thieving difpofition, I. had no objection to the propofal, particularly as I thought the perfon who went might have an opportunity of ob- ferving what number of fea-otter fkins they poffeffed, and might alfo form fome idea of then manner of living. Accordingly, I permitted one of my people to go on fhore, and that I might be under no apprehenfion about his fafety, two of the Indians (inflead of one, as was firft pro- pofed) remained on board, and behaved remarkably well : they were both young, very well made, good-looking men, and appeared to be brothers. The other man, who appeared to be the chief of this fmall tribe, went away with my man and the reft of his tribe at feven o'clock. I obferved they went to the Northward, and turned round a point of land, beyond which moft probably their habitation was fituated. CHAP, XII. 1787. Auguft. Monday 6.-» About eight o'clock next morning, the Indians returned TueAJay^ with our man, but they brought very little trade. The perfon who went on fhore with the Indians informed me, that their refidence was at the foot of a hill near a run of frefli water, which iffued out of an adjacent valley. Their houfe (for they had only one) appeared to be only a temporary habitation, and he could obferve very few articles of-trade among 26; A VOYAGE TO THE c ha p. among them. The way to this Indian hut was to the North Eaft through a little found, full of fmall iflands covered with wood. 1787. Auguft. Tuefday 7. Wednef. 8-. At daylight the long-boat was hoifted out, and Tome hands were employed in fitting her for an expedition to the Eaftward. The feine was hauled in feveral parts of the harbour ; but we did not meet with any fuccefs. The long-boat being properly equipped, at five o'clock fhe fet out on a trading expedition towards Cape Edge- -combe, and among the iflands to the South Eaft of that Cape, with the fame officers and men that went in her to Cook's River. I gave them particular orders to return in feven teen days ; and in cafe they fell in with the Queen Charlotte, to defire captain Dixon to fail with them towards our prefent harbour, and remain in the offing until I fhould join him ; as I propofed leaving the coafl towards the. latter end of the month, and proceeding for China, unlefs our fuccefs in trade warranted my flaying on the coafl to a later period. The adjacent country abounding with white cedar, I fent the carpenter on fhore with a party on the 8th, to cut fome for fawing into fheathing-boards : the remainder of the fhip's company were bufied in Various neceffary employments. In the courfe of the day we had a fmall canoe along-fide, with one man and a woman ; but they brought nothing to difpofe of; and probably were out on a hunting party, as they had all the implements for that purpofe: however, after flaying a fhort time with us, •they returned towards the Eaftern point of the Sound, from NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. from whence they came, in order to give their tribe intelligence of our being in the harbour. Towards evening our firfl vifiters came along-fide, and the two young men again requefted to fleep on board, which I permitted, and Jofeph Woodcock, one of my apprentices, flept on fhore with their party. When the Indians left us, they did not go to their habitations round the North point, as on the preceding evening, but took up their abode in a fmall bay near the fhip, where they erected a miferable hut, infuf- ficient to keep out either wet or cold. 263 CHAP. XII. "8~ Auguft. Wednef. 8.. Not having any fuccefs in hauling the feine near the fhip, I fent the whale-boat with the feine round a point to the North Eaft ; round that point they proceeded up an arm of the Sound, which took, a dire&ion about North and North by Eaft, for four or five miles : this arm has two or three fmall woody iflands lying at the entrance, and is navigable for a fhip of any fize, almoft the whole. way up ; at the head of it they found a fmall frefh-water rivulet, where they caught a few good falmon and a great number of very indifferent ones, moft of which were fuf- fered to efcape. The indifferent falmon appear to be a different kind from the others, and I am inclined to think were out of feafon. They had a moft difagreeable colour, to appearance as if in a Hate of putrefaction ; andthe upper jaw had a number of large teeth projecting almoH right out of it. Since our arrival I had frequently feen in the frefh- water creeks (in which places thefe kind of falmon get a confiderable height) many of them dying, and great numbers on the banks quite dead ;. indeed there is reafon to fuppofe that few of them furvive the approach of winter, but the other fort keep in deep water, and about the mouths wm 264 im CHAP. XII. Auguft. Wednef. 8. A VOYAGE TO THE mouths of the creeks. Thofe caught by our people were fine large fifh, of a very good colour, and without the teeth, or rather tufks, in the upper jaw, which fo particularly diflinguifh the inferior fort. The fmall canoe which vifited us in the morning from the Eaftward returned again at eight o'clock, in company with two large boats, containing about twenty-five men, women, and children. They entertained us near an hour with finging, and afterwards took their leave and went on fhore to the little bay juft mentioned, where fome of them erected temporary huts to lodge in, but others contented themfelves with fuch kind of fhelter as fome rocks which hung over the beach afforded. On leaving the fhip they gave me to underftand that they had fome excellent fkins to difpofe of, and would bring them in the morning: accordingly, foon after daylight the Indians again came along-fide, bringing five very good fea-otter fkins (which were all they had of the kind) and a number of beautiful black fkins, fuch as I had never feen before ; but am j apt to think they were a fpecies of feal. This tribe (as well as our former vifiters) traded very fairly ; and as they did not feem to be of a thieving difpo- fition, I admitted a number of them on board. When dinner was brought into the cabin, my guefts required very little invitation to partake, but began to eat very heartily ; and fo well did they relifh our victuals, that the table was prefently cleared, and there was occàfion for another coûrfe, which was brought in, and they fell to with as keen an appetite as at firft, till at length, being fairly fatiated, they gave over, though with fome reluc- I o tance. iii NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. tance. After looking at various parts of the fhip, and receiving fome little prefents, they returned to the fhore well fatisfied with their entertainment. In the forenoon we got feveral fine logs of cedar on board, and two of the people were fet to work in fawing them into fheathing-boards. The cooper was fent on fhore to.vbrew fpruce-beer and effence of fpruce for fea- flore ; there being an abundant quantity of excellent pine for that purpofe not far from the fhip : others of the fhip's company were employed in wooding and watering, and I fent two of the boys with the canoe into the paffage to try for fifh ; but they returned without meeting with any fuccefs. 26 c CHAP. Xll. 17.37. i.Ugl]f Thurfday 9. Auguft. About one o'clock an Indian boat came into the Sound with two men, a boy about twelve years old, and a young child in her ; one of the men was a remarkably fine looking fellow, and appeared to be a perfon of great confequence. This fmall party came from the North . Weftward, and I am inclined to think their ufual place of refidence is near the fpot where I have before mentioned there is a probability of finding a good harbour between this Sound and Crofs Cape : they came through a paflage that leads into another Sound to the North Weft of that we lay in, and which paffage makes the land to the Weflward of us an ifland, I bought from our new vifiters a few very good fea- otter fkins, and a number of wild geefe. The method they make ufe of in catching thofe birds is to chafe and knock them down immediately after they have fhed their M m large IMAMlMiWlllllllillll"'! f^nmmmÊmmBm i787. Auçuft. Thurfday 9. large tofl A VOYAGE TO THE wing-feathers ; at which time they are not able u These Indians had a number of beads about them of quite a different fort to any I ever faw ; they had alfo a carpenters adze made in a different mariner to ours, with the letter B and three fleurs-de-lis on it. The chief informed me that he received thefe articles from two veffels which had been with them to the North Weft, and de- fcribed them as having three mafts : he gave me to underftand that they had a drum on board, and a number of great guns. Thefe circumftances inclined me to think that the veffels defcribed by this chief were the French men of war that were fitting out for difcovery at the time we left England. Besides thefe fhips juft mentioned, I was informed by fome of the Indians, that another veffel had vifited the coaft a little way to the North Weft of our fituation, and from their defcription, I fhould rather fuppofe her to have been the Queen Charlotte than any other veffel ; as they defcribed her having only two mafts, and her boat >Jike our whale-boat. They alfo made me underftand very clearly, that an unfortunate accident happened to one of her boats, which was fifhing at an anchor in the mouth of the port where fhe lay : whilft fifhing, the wind came in frefh from the fea, which caufed a good deal of fea to fet in, and when endeavouring to weigh their anchor, the cable flipped on the broad-fide of the boat, which overfet her ; and before any afliflance could be given them from the fhip five men were drowned. The boat to which this misfortune happened they gave me to underftand was exactly NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. exactly the model of our whale-boat ; and I was afraid that an accident of the kind might poffibly have happened to the Queen Charlotte's boat. After this fmall party had finifhed trading, the chief requefted leave to flay all night on board with the elder boy) which I granted, and fent Jofeph Woodcock on fhore with the other man and child. sfé>7 CHAP. XH. 1787. Auguft. Thurfday 9, ?èf3#fl The chief from the North Weft, with his little party, took leave of me the next morning, and proceeded to- Friday 10. wards home ; telling me at the fame time that he would return in ten days with more fea-otter fkins. tm M m 2 l^fl PB« A VOYAGE TO THE C H XllL Ï787. Auguft. Saturday CHAP. XIII. A new Party of Traders from the Eaft.—Under a Ne- cejfity of exchanging Hoftages.—Part of the Ship's Company go on Shore.—Meet .with Indian Tea.—Vifit the Natives at their own Refidence.—Their Habitations and Manner of Living defcribed.—An Account of the Spaniards having been o?i the Coaft, and left the Small-pox. —The Long-boat returns from an Expedition to the Eaftward.—Examine the Sound.—Another Vifit from our North Weft Friends.— Ceremonies to be obferved before commencing Trade.—fofeph Woodcock fent as an Hoftage —Three Days in the Country.—An Account of the Natives—Their thieving Difpofition—Naftinefs, Ornaments, Drefs, and Language.—Obfervations on the Advan^- tages likely to accrue from a Settlement on the Coaft.— Some Thoughts of an Expedition by Land.—Leave Port- . lock's Harbour. p. |N the morning of the nth two large boats came into W the Sound from the Eaftward. This tribe were entire ftrangers to us, and confifled of twenty-five men, women and children, from whom I bought a few very good fea- otter fkins, à cloak made of the fmall black fkins I have before taken notice of, and feveral fkins of the fame fort. This new party of traders did not aflbciate with the other Indians ; but after their bufinefs was over, and their cu- riofity gratified by looking at the fhip, they went on 10 fhore m1 J31 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 269 CHAP. XIII. 1787. Aueuft. fhore in a bay not far from the fhip, where the cooper was employed in brewing fpruce-beer, and took up their lodging in a good convenient houfe, which he and his affiliants had built to fhelter themfelves from the rain,, and Saturday "• which was well covered with cedar bark. - The feine was hauled in the afternoon, and we caught a good fupply of excellent falmon, * Some of our old acquaintance came on board in the^ evening.to fleep with us, and I fent a perfon on more by way of hoftage as ufual. Indeed I found it abfolutely neceffary to conform to their cuflom in this particular; for more than once, when I had refufed to exchange hoflages with them, in confequence of the appearance of bad weather, they were immediately alarmed, and Would not come near the fhip on any account whatever ; but on my permitting a perfon to go along with them on fhore, they would receive him on entering their boat with a general fhout of exultation, and feemed perfectly convinced that no harm was intended them* On thefe occafions, inftead of one Indian flaying on board in exchange for the perfon I fent on more, more than half a dozen would offer themfelves as volunteers, and I fometimes permitted three ; or four of them to fleep with us. The two young men who firft vifited us were generally of the party; and indeed^ one of them was almpfl conftantly on board. On the 12th I gave part of the fhip's company leave Sunday 12. to recreate themfelves on fhore; as, a walk I knew would be highly ferviceable to them; and the adjacent country was pleafant and agreeable, and afforded great quantities of blackberries and. wild rafpberries, quite ripe, and exceedingly wmm fP "O C H A X11I, Auguft. Sunday 12. P. A VOYAGE TO THE ceedingly good. This party, in the èoùrfefof their ramble, fell in with a large fpot of low fwampy groundy>fituâ/ted at a fmall diflance behind the brewery beach, on Which grew a large quantity of the Indian tea. This di&overy Was a timely one •; for by this time the greatefl partfo£ our other.tea was expended, and Our newly-difcovered tea was a moft excellent fubftitute. It grows on a low-fmall fh¥ub, not more than twelve inches from the ground ; the leaf about half an inch long, and tapers gradually to a pofnt ; the under-part covered with a light downy fubflance. In the forenoon I went in the whale-boat, accompanied by Mr. Wilbye and one of the young Indians, to vifit their refidence ; he undertaking to direct: the way. We rowed to the North Weft for about two miles, and then came to what had the appearance of a point of land from the fhip, but we found it to be an ifland, "fituated at the entrance of an arm of the Sound, which trends away between North and -North Eaft. The Indian informed me that their place of abode was up that arm, therefore we proceeded on, and found it to run in a zigzag direction between North and North Eaft, about five miles to the head of it from the ifland in the entrance, and near feven miles from the fhip. This arm appears to be navigable for at feaft four miles up, for veffels of any fize, and there are a number of fmall iflands covered with trees fcattered in various parts of it. We arrived at the Indian's habitation about noon, and found one fmall temporary houfe, and the ruins of two others which had been much larger, and appeared to have been made ufe of as winter habita» tions ; the uprights or fupporters were Hill remaining, and fome boards that were intended for a floor. On the beach was tansy ite NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. was 2m large boat, and three of a fmaller fize ; the large boat capable of holding thirty perfons, and the others about ten people each. From this circumftance I expected to have feen a numerous tribe, and was quite fur- prifed when I found that it confined only of three men, three women, the fame number of girls, two boys about twelve years old, and two infants. One of the women was very old, I fhould think not lefs than eighty. I obferved the oldeft of the men to be very much marked with the fmall-pox, as was a girl who appeared to bei'about fourteen years old. The old man endeavoured to defcribe the exceffive torments he endured whilft he was afflicted with the diforder that had marked his face, and gave me to underftand that it happened fome years ago. This convinced me that they had had the fmall-pox among them at fome diftant period. He told me that the difi- temper carried off great numbers of the inhabitants, and that he himfelf had loft ten children by it ; he had ten ftrokes tatooed on one of his arms, which I underflood were marks for the number of children he had loft. I did not obferve any of the children under ten or twelve years of age that were marked ; therefore I have great reafon to fuppofe that the diforder raged a little more than that number of years ago ; and as the Spaniards were on this part of the coafl in 1775, it is very probable that from them thefe poor wretches caught this fatal infection. They, it fhould feem, are a nation defigned by Providence to be a fcourge to every tribe of Indians they come near, by one means or other. CHAP. xm. Auguft. Sunday 12. The Spaniards were among them in the height of fummer, and probably they caught the infection about the 8 month f 1W 272 CHAP. XIII. Auguft. Sunday 12. A VOYAGE TO THE month of Auguft. To feel their manner of living at that feafon of the year, one would think it a miracle that any of them efcaped with their lives. I found men, women, ..auciBchildren, all huddled together in a clofe houfe near a large safe, and entirely furrounded with flinking fifh. Round the houfe for at leaft one hundred yards, and all along the banks of a little creek that ran down by this miferable dwelling, were ftrewed ftinking fifh; and in feveral places were beds of maggots a foot deep, and ten of twelve feet in circumference: nay, the place had really fuch a dreadfully offenfive finell, that the young Indian himfelf, though habituated to fuch wretched fcenes from his earlipft infancy, having remained on board with us a few days., could not .bear it, but intreated me very earneftly to leave the place, which I did, and returned to the boat, accompanied by him and the reft of our party. Poflibly the fmall-pox only raged during the warm weather, and the infection was deftroyed by the fetting in of a fevere wintèi); but the fufferings of the poor Indians, when the diforder was at its height, muft have been inconceivable, and no doubt the country was nearly depopulated; for to this day it remains very thinly inhabited. A number of the Indians who vifited us from the Eaftward were marked with the fmall-pox, ~ and one man who had loft an eye gave me to underftand that he loft it by that diforder ; but none of the natives from the Weflward had the leaft traces of it. I cannot account for this cir- cumflance any other way than by fuppofing that the veffel from which thefe unfortunate people caught the infection, was in a harbour fomewhere about Cape Edgecombe ; and J§ perhaps NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 2 73 CHAP. XIII. 1787- Auguft. perhaps none of the natives further to the Weflward than this Sound had an opportunity of having any intercourfe with her, and by that means happily efcaped the diforder. After I left this miferable habitation, the feine was hauled, un ay 12' and we caught a good fupply of fine falmon. In the evening, our late vifiter from the Northward returned and flept on board, together with the reft of his party, and we hauled his boat up along-fide. He informed me that the weather was fo bad that he could not poflibly get home; however, he fet off again at day-light the next morning to make another trial. In the forenoon part of Monday \% the fhip's company had leave given them to go on fhore, and though rainy weather came on, yet they were fo intent on picking Indian tea, and berries of various kinds, that few of them returned on board before the approach of evening. In the courfe of the day, our neighbours in the Sound brought us a few fea-otter fkins, and fome others of various kinds; and a few of the natives that had been out on a hunting party returned with three very fine fea- otter fkins juft taken from the animal. On the 14th part of the fhip's company were em- Tuefday-14. ployed in wooding and watering, others hauled the feine, and caught a fupply of good falmon, and the fawyers were bufied in fawing cedar into fheathing-boards. At nine o'clock in the morning of the 15th the long- wednef. 15, boat returned from her expedition to the Eaftward; fhe had been juft to the Eaftward of Cape Edgecombe, where they met with fome inhabitants, and purchafed about twenty pretty good fea-otter fkins, Between the harbour we lay in and the Cape, they fell in with a ftrait about a m mm N n lea igue ■ 'TOP m 274 CHAP XIII. Auguft. Wednef. 15. w 't ity • A.VOYAGE. TO THE league wide at the entrance, and running in about Eaft, or Eaft South Eaft, with bold fhores and good anchorage. Soon after getting in (the Southern and Eaftern "point of the ftrait in 570 30' latitude, and the Northern and Weftern point in 570 36' latitude), they ftood up between South and South by Eaft, near. * four leagues, the ftrait for that diftance appearing near three leagues acrofs, with feveral fmall iflands fcattered about it. From the Southern point there were feveral appearances of fine openings branching out in various directions ; however, they did not examine any of them, but kept along under the Southern fhore, as the moft likely place for leading out near Cape Edgecombe. After getting up this paffage about four leagues, they found it not more than half a league acrofs, with good anchorage all the way up ; and after carrying that width two leagues higher, it became very narrow and fhoal, one part in particular fo fhoal, that it became dry at low-water for near two miles. In this narrow part they ftruck a rock, which fhivered one of the planks in the loof of the bow, and caufed, the boat to make a good deal of water. This accident might have been attended with ferious confequences ; however, they hauled the boat on fhore, and nailed a piece of fheet-lead over the damaged part, which effectually flopped the leak. After paffing the narrow part, which they did by taking a proper time of tide, they found the paffage to grow wider (ftill trending away to the North Eaft) ; the depth of water increafed gradually, and nearly as fait as fea-water. This circum- ftance gave them great hopes that the paffage they were in had a communication with the fea to the South Eaft, and confequently that they fhould get to the South Eaftward of the Cape, by a very fafe and eafy navigation. In this S opinion Ai* * *i. "y |M)lRTH. WEST COAST OF AMERICA. .«•«°< ■ opiniprf they Were foon confirmed by coming into a larg Sound, where they faw a great number of whales. They al£o{had a fight of Mount Edgecombe, and fome iflands lying to the South Eaft of Cape Edgecombe. In the courfe of'their cruife thus far they had landed feveral .times Jn a fine level pleafant country, where they could .perceive the traces of inhabitants having been there recently, but what is rather extraordinary, they faw neither huts nor Indians. On getting round the North point of this paffage, through which they had come thus far, they faw an opening that appeared to run about a league up in a North direction, and then branched out various ways. In the entrance of the main opening were feveral fmall iflands (I think it very probable that the North Weft arm of thi opening runs into the firft large found that we entered). They ftill faw no inhabitants, therefore continued to fleer on to the South Eafl for a paffage about a mile and a half acrofs, made by the Northern part of an ifland juft under Mount Edgecombe (which was diftinguifhed by the name of Pitt's Ifland), and the oppoftte point of land which we fuppofe to be the main. Through this paflage they had a view of the fea, and the iflands lying to the South Eaft of Cape Edgecombe. After setting through the paffage, they fleered anions; a clufter of'iflands lying near the fhore to the Northward of Cape Edgecombe, and anchored to the Northward of the largefl. This ifland bore North from the Cape about three leagues diflant, and feveral other iflands lay to the South Eaft of this clufter, fix leagues diftant. N n 2 They 2j6 CHAP. XIII. "1787 •' Auguft. Wednef. 15. A VOYAGE TO THE They remained here fome time without feeing any inhabitants; and as the wind had fet in from the South Eaft, which prevented them from proceeding any further in that direction, they were preparing to return back again, when a canoe made its appearance with fix people in her, from whom they procured fome fea-otter fkins, and foon afterwards they were vifited by a few other canoes; but the people were not by any means fo numerous as might naturally have been expected in fo fine a fituation. Their vifiters gave them to underftand, that a veflei with two mafts had lately anchored near the place where the boat then lay ; and from the articles of trade which the natives poffeffed, I had fcarcely a doubt but this veffel was the Queen Charlotte. The different articles our people faw were hawks bells, tin kettles, buckles, and rings, all of them the fame pattern with our own ; they had alfo a Sandwich Ifland calabafh, and a number of towes. The boat lay in this' fituation two days, during which time the people were on fhore, but they did not fee any appearance of wood having been recently cut down, or any other fign of a fhip's crew having lately been on fhore; fo that I fhould fuppofe if the Queen Charlotte had anchored near this fituation, it was in her paflage to King George's Sound; and having wooded and watered before fhe left Prince William's Sound, they would have no occafion to carry on any operations of that fort at this place. Meffrs. Hill and Hayward obferved many of thofe people to be marked with the fmall-pox, and made the fame obfervations there re- fpecting that diforder that I had done in this harbour, which was, that none under ten or twelve years of age bore any marks of the diforder. A short NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 277 CHAP. XIII. 1787. auguft. A short time before they intended failing to return to the fhip, and while the people were bufy in putting the boat to rights on deck, the Indians went in two boats, and took an opportunity of cutting their cable. The anchor Wednef,1s lay in twenty-eight fathoms water without a buoy, fo that there was no chance of recovering it. After doing this piece of mifchief, the Indians made for the fhore with all the halle imaginable, and landed at a little diftance from the long-boat. Our people purfued them, and being a good deal exafperated at their daring and infolent behaviour, they landed with the boat, and entirely de- Hroyed both the Indian boats. - The natives fled with pre- cipitationfmto the woods, which put a flop to our people's purfuit; and I believe they did them no further injury. I was forry that the boat's crew fhould have been under the neceffity of taking this flep ; but undoubtedly this crime committed .by the Indians was of fo very mifchievous a nature, that it became neceffary to punifh. them in fome meafure for it; and it is very probable that deflroying their boats (which it muft coft them much time and trouble to rebuild) would make a greater impreffion than even taking away numbers o f th- is. After filling; their water. Ljl.V'XJL J.AV,*-'VJ« I JLltVl iilJLAJ.J.tl LllViX VV Ct. m-\*\ • and getting; a little wood on board, the long-boat returned to the fhip by the fame paffage that they went through, and during the whole paffage did not fee a fingle canoe. The night before they got on board, James Blake, one of the boat's crew, fell overboard : the boat was going very faft through the water when this accident happened, and had got a confiderable way to leeward before they brought her to. Blake could fwim but very indifferently, but fortunately was faved by John M'Coy (another of the 7 boat's- iw Iii -278 C H A P. XIII. ~~n~ Auguft. Wednef. 15. A VOYAGE TO THE boat's crew) fwimming to him with an oar, which fup- ported him ^until he was pulled into the boat, and it was near an hour before- they got him on board, owing to a frefk breeze, and his being directly to windward. Thurfday 16. On the. 16th the fhip's company were employed in wooding, and watering, and getting the fhip ready for fea. In. the..;forenoon two Indian boats came along-fide, from whom- I bought a few tolerably, good fea-orfér/fkins.. Tn the afternoon we completed our water, and the long-boat^ crew-had leave given them to go on fhore. se. Friday 17. The weather during the whole of the 17th was fqually andjinfet.tled, the wind, blowing ver,ytfreflifrom the Eaftward, which prevented ■ anytbu3Sfj^s^r^nT^»i!ig forward. In the'..courfe of the day^v^e^wrëi'vifitéd^byîone^canoe, which brought a few indifferent fea-otter fkins. Saturday 18. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 18th I went in the whale-boat to the South point of the entrance into the Sound to fee how the wind prevailed out at fea. I landed on a part of the point that.was fheltered from the furf by fome rocks, from which fituation I had a good view of the fea and the fhores to the North Weft and South Eaft of this entranç^or I found the wind in the entrance and at fea to be about South Weft by South, blowing, ftrong and in fqualls, which, fent in on the rocks and fhores a tremendous furf. After taking fome bearings from this point, I embarked with an intention of examining the > Eaftern part of the Sound. About noon, we rowed under the lee of a fmall ifland, and took fhelter under fome»trees that hung over the water, where we refrefhed ourfelves with NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 279 CHAP. XIII. 1787. Auguft. Jgg^h^me fmoked falmon. From this we proceeded on to ;'tr|eT'Eaftward, under the Southern fhore of the Sound, ■••'IgSdy after rowing about two leagues, came to another cppjjage.leading out to fea in the direction of South Weft. atur ay l8 . 'Jlffe;Cjpffi^el-i's about three quarters of a mile acrofs, with boldirocky fhores, againft which the furf broke with great fury; and the wind being directly in, a heavy fea fet up the paffage. I found in the mid channel between twenty and thirty fathoms water over a bottom of hard fand, and the paffage from the inner to the outer points appeared to be about two miles long. The wind blowing freffi, :and*tHefe being a very heavy fea, I was prevented from^g<>i£gArough it as I at firft intended, and got only two':thkds of'the way: from which fituation I could fee ; ^he^^'break on fome rocks that run,out a little way from the outer point; but between them/the paffage-appeared good andv»çlèar. This paffage I. guefs to. be about two leagues to**the" South Eaft of : the. one we came in at with the s, fhip. ciFihding it impoffible. to proceed-further out, we bore up, fet our fails, and Tuhrim again.to-the Sound. I proceeded on, and found the South fhore to run nearly Eaft for one mile and a half, when a fmall river emptied itfelf into the Sound. The fhore then took a North North Eaft direction for about two miles more, • in which fituation the land took a quick turn round^ and,there appeared a paffage near half a mile acrofs^ navigable, and trending away directly to the Eaftward. I dSjfnot follow this paffage, as the boat's crew were 'quite wetland a good deakfatigued ■ with pulling; but landed in a Tmail .ba^y to the Northward of it, where we took fome refreffimen't. 1 w In 2$0 CHAP. XIII. A VOYAGE TO THE In this bay, and nptemoxe than ten yards from the I beach, there was a kind of rmonument erected probably to iH*if«,i Nil ill Aog8uï. the memory of fome diftinguifhed chief. This edifice Saturday 18. was comp0{cd Q£ four pofts, each about twenty feet long, fluck in the ground fix feet diftant from each other, and in a quadrangular form. About twelve or fifteen feet from the ground there was a rough boarded floor, and two of the fides were boarded four feet higher up, the other fides were left open. In the middle of this floor an Indian cheft was depofited, which moft likely contained the remains of fome .perfon of confequence ; and on that fide o&:the edifice to the Weftward, and which pointed up the Sound, there was painted the refemblance of a human face. This wooden edifice, from its tottering condition, had certainly \been erected a confiderable lengtk of time; and as it began to decay, I could perceive that the Indians had fixed fupporters to the original uprights, and the painting appeared to -have been frequently touched over. As none of the inhabitants were near us, I was defirous to know what the cheft contained; but on one of the boat's crew attempting to get. up in order to examine it, the whole fabric had like to have given way, on which I ordered him to defift, as I was not willing to deflroy a building that probably was looked upon by the Indians as facred, and which they apparently took very great pains to preferve. Some of the inhabitants had lately vifited this bay, as we faw a place where a fire had lately been made, and which appeared not to have been long put out. From this place Jofeph Woodcock took a view of the land as given 'II!' NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 281 given in the annexed plate. We now fleered nearly Weft c ^A p- for the fhip, and as we rowed along, I found the North w—1—» fhore of the Sound to run in a North Weft direction Auguft. for about a mile and a half; it then took a quick turn Saturday ,8, in to the Northward, and formed a fine harbour, with a few fmall iflands well covered with trees fcattered about the entrance, and the harbour feemed to run in for three or four miles. About fix o'clock in the afternoon I got on board, and underflood from Mr. Hill (to whofe direction I left the trading bufinefs), that fome of the natives had been on board, from whom he purchafed a few pieces of fea-otter and fome good ermine fkins. On the 19th we had a frefh gale from the South Sunday r| South Weft, with violent fqualls and heavy rains. Towards evening the wind fhifted to the Eaftward, and grew moderate; but the weather ftill continuing rainy, none of the natives came near us. Neither the wind nor weather appearing fettled enough to get out to fea with, I kept the cooper on fhore brewing fpruce effence for fea flore ; the reft of the people were employed in other neceffary works. In the forenoon of the 20th our late vifiter from the Monday 20* North Weft made his appearance in a large boat ; his party confifted of twenty men and women, befides ten or twelve boys and girls, and a few infants. As this chief, when he laft took leave of me. U"U- mifed to return with-a good cargo of fea-otter fkins, I expected a brifk trade to commence every moment, and prepared myfelf accordingly ; but I prefently found that O o at fill VOYAGE TO THE p- at this time my old acquaintance was not for tranfacting his bufinefs in a hurry ; and perhaps he thought that on his laft vifit we were not impreffed with a fufficient idea of his importance ; for now he came along-fide with his party in great pomp and folemnity, all of them ringing ; and in addition to the vocal concert, they entertained us with inftrumental mufic, which confifled of a large old cheft, beaten with the hands, by way of a drum, and two rattles. The rattles were two feet long, and about two inches round, made of hollow pieces of wood neatly joined together, and a number of fmall flOnes being put in, they were clofed at both ends. The chief held one of thefe rattles in his hand, which he frequently fhook with an air of meaning intelligence, and the reft of his tribe feemed to follow his directions, in ringing in the moft exact manner. His drefs was an old coat, made of cloth which formerly had been fcarlet, with fome old gold or filver fringe about the fhoulders ; but tliat ornament being efteemed of little value, the cloak was decorated down each fide with buttons, and fmall lead pipes, each about an inch long. His hair, after being well rubbed with oil, was entirely filled with down taken from gulls, and which is always worn by the Indian chiefs when in full drefs. In this grotefque figure he difplayed as much importance as any Spanifh don could poffibly have done. Befides the curious drefs which the chief himfelf wore, he had another in the boat not lefs remarkable than his own, and ornamented nearly in the fame manner, which was worn during the time of their ringing by a woman whom I took for his wife. After NORTH -WEST; COAST;OF AMERICA or A f ter this long ceremony was over, the chief made me a prefent of half a fear-otter fkin, but did not produce any thing for fale ; giving me to underftand at the fame time that he muft go on fhore before any traffic could be carried on. After .ffaying there fome time (which I apprehend was taken up in afforting their furs) he returned with his party ; and now I expected our trade to begin in good earnefl ; but in this I was again difappointed ; for the tinging again commenced, and by way of varying our amufeinent, the chief appeared in different characters during the time his people were finging ; and always changed his drefs when he varied his character ; in doing of which fome of his companions held up a large mat, by way of fcene, to prevent us from feeing what was going on behind the curtain. At one time he appeared in the character of a warrior, and feemed to have all the favage ferocity of the Indian conqueror about him. He fhewed us the manner in which they attacked their enemies, their method of fighting, and their behaviour to the vanquifhed enemy. He next affirmed the character of a woman, and to make his imitation more complete, he wore a mafk, which reprefented a woman's face with their ufual ornaments ; and indeed it fo exactly refembled a woman's face, that I am pretty certain it was beyond the reach of Indian art, and muft certainly have been left by the Spaniards in their laft vifit to this part of the coaft. c ha p. XIII. 1787T" Auguft. Monday 20, After this entertainment was over (with which it was neceffary for us to appear pleafed), the chief and fome of his people came on board, and trade at laft commenced between us. In the courfe of the day I bought twenty- five pieces of tolerably good fea-otter, equal to about ten O o 2 whole ill! VOYAGE TO THE chap. wn0\e f^ins ; but it fhould feem as if the chief wanted me to pay for the entertainment he had given us, as well as- his furs ; for I could not purchafe a good fkin for lefs than a light-horfeman's cap, two yards of inferior broad-cloth, a pair of buckles, two handful s of fmall beads, and two fifk-hooks. The articles we bartered with were light- horfemen's caps, ftriped woollen blankets, towes, eighteen or twenty inches long, buckles, buttons, and beads of all forts, but particularly fmall tranfparent ones, either green, blue, or yellow. However, I could not procure even a piece of a fkin with any of the latter articles ; they only were given by Way of concluding a bargain, as were tin kettles, brafs pans, and pewter bafons ; but hatchets, adzes, and howels, they would fcarcely take for any thing whatever. My vifiter was equally tedious in trading as he had been in his entertainment ; fo that I could not get every thing he had to difpofe of during the whole day, and about eight o'clock in the evening, our traffic for the day being over, he fent his boat on fhore, and remained on board with one of his people for the night ; and as he required an hoifage, I fent Jofeph Woodcock on fhore with his party. Woodcock having frequently been on fhore as an hofl- age, was well known to the natives, and they feemed very fond of his company. On one of thefe occafions he remained among the Indians for three days ; during which time he had a good opportunity of feeing their cuftoms and mode of living ; and his account perfectly agreed with my own obfervations when on fhore. Their filth and naftinefs NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 28j naflinefs were beyond conception; their food, which c ^nA p- confifled chiefly of fifh, was mixed up with flinking oil, \ '—* and other ingredients equally difagreeable, and the re- Auguft. mains of every meal were thrown into a corner of their Monda? 2°* hut, upon a heap of the fame kind that was in a ftate of putrefaction, which, together with large quantities of fat and flinking oil, caufed a very loathfome and offenfive fmell ; and what rendered it ftill worfe, the fame apartment ferved them both to eat and fleep in- This uncomfortable fituation frequently induced Woodcock to take a ramble into the woods ; but he was always very narrowly watched by fome of his new companions, who feemed to apprehend that he was endeavouring to make his efcape from them. Once in particular, having wandered a confiderable diftance from the Indians place of refidence, he began to amufe himfelf with whiffling part of an old fong, not expecting, if the natives heard him, that it could pof- fibly be a matter of offence ; but in this he was miftaken, for feveral of them immediately ran up to him, and infilled on his giving over : at firft he did not comprehend their meaning, and went on with his tune; however, one of them foon put a flop to it by laying his hand on Woodcock's mouth ; being apprehenfive that he. meant the whiffling as a fignal for fome of his companions to come for him. Except their watching him fo clofely, they treated him with great kindnefs ; and at their meals always gave him what they confidered as choice dainties, mixing his fifh with plenty of flinking oil, which in their opinion gave it an additional and moft agreeable relifh ; and he found it no eafy matter to perfuade them to let him eat his fifh without fauce. These m IllII w- M A VOYAGE TO THE III mm \m mil chap. These poor wretches, by living in fo filthy a manner, t—„y were intirely covered with vermin ; but this they feemed A%gufi. ' to confider as no kind of inconvenience ; for at any time Monday 20. wjien t]ie jjce grew troublefome they picked and ate them with the greatefl relifh and compofure : fometimes indeed, when they were greatly peftered, and had not an opportunity of ridding themfelves of their guefts in that manner, they would turn their jackets, and wear the infide outwards, by way of giving them a few hours refpite. Poor Woodcock foon became as much incumbered with vermin as his companions, but ufe had not as yet reconciled him to fuch troublefome guefts, and he felt his fituation extremely difagreeable. The Indians endeavoured to perfuade him to difpofe of them in the manner they did ; but this was fo totally repugnant to his feelings, that they foon perceived his diflike to their propofal. At length he perfuaded one of the women to rid him of the vermin, and fhe (probably confidering them as a peculiar dainty) accepted the office with pleafure, and entirely cleared him from every thing of the kind. Tuefday 2i. At daylight in the morning of the 2iff, I fent Mr. Hayward in the yaul out to the entrance of the Sound, to fee what Wind prevailed there and in the offing : he returned about eight o'clock, and informed me that the wind was at South Wefl by Wefl in the offing, which threw a heavy fea'into the paffage. As there was no pro- fpect of our getting to fea with the wind in that quarter, I kept the people to work in brewing, fawing plank, and -other neceflary employments. 2 About m m NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. About feven in the morning the Indian chief with his party returned on board, and our trade again commenced ; but I found him equally tedious in. the difpofal of his furs as on the preceding day. Towards noon I fent Mr. Hay- ward to the South point of the entrance into the Sound, to get a meridian altitude. He landed on the South point, and got one which gave the latitude of that point 570 4.4/ North ; the latitude of the fhip's place in the harbour was 57°#'.n '.'."■ ■ § ■'. nitc During the day I bought of my vifiters about the fame quantity of furs as I had done the day before, and nearly at the fame prices. About feven o'clock, our trading was finifhed ; and as I knew the neighbourhood was cleared of all the furs, I determined to quit the Sound the firft opportunity ; and this evening the fhip was put in a ftate fit for fea. 287 chap. XIII. Auguft. Tuefday 21,- I found this party from the North Weft much more addicted to thieving than any of our former vifiters in the Sound were ; and it is really aftonifhing to fee with what patience a thief will wait when once he has fixed his eye on the thing he means to fleal, and with what fecrecy and dexterity they will convey their booty away. One fellow in particular took a' liking to my drinking-mug, which was a black-jack ; and he ' had got it under his frock, which are made in the fame manner as at Prince William's Sound ; but very unfortunately for the poor- fellow, it happened to be about half full of beer, a part of which fplafhing over, difcovered the thief and his intentions. Notwithflanding I kept two people conftantly in my cabin to. watch the by-ftanders,, -whilft I traded with m JJdUL.1— A VOYAGE TO THE any of them, one fellow found an opportunity to get a cutlafs under his frock, and was not difcovered till he was going down the fide of the fhip : I immediately took it from him, and gave him a very fievere chaftifement with the flat fide of it, and afterwards drove him out of the fhip ; yet notwithftanding all our vigilance and attention, another of them found means to flea! out of a box in my cabin four pair of worried ftockings and fome other things, with which he found means to get out of the fhip undiscovered. Our vifiters from the Eafl were much eafier to deal with, and much honefter. It appears to me that the inhabitants of this Sound, and thofe farther to the Eaftward, fland much in awe of them ; for they frequently importuned me very earneflly to drive them away; being extremely uneafy all the time they were on board.- The Weftern people appear to me to be much more warlike and favage than any of their neighbours ; their language varies a little from the others; but their fongs and mufic are entirely different ; their boats, weapons for war, and hunting implements, are much the fame. They appear to be very indolent and dirty, which naturally expofes them to all manner of vermin, and which is difpofed of in the manner already mentioned. They have not the ufe of bladder- fkin frocks for their drefs, but make dreflès of the fkins of land and fea animals, made up in the fame manner as the inhabitants of Cook's River and Prince William's Sound. The men do not ufe the method of flitting their under-lips ; but wear their ornaments of beads, fhells, &c, 1 at their ears, through which they have fmall holes bored : they likewife bore a fmall hole through the griftle of the nofe, through which they will fometimes put a needle or nail that they purchafe in trade, cr may have given them io as NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 289 as a ptefeiit; but the women disfigure themfelves in a Ç-T5nf p* moft extraordinary manner,, by making an incifion in the \ —* under-lip ; in which part they wear a piece of wood made Auguft. in an oval form a little hollow on each fide, and about uefday 2I* the thickfiefs of a quarter of an inch ; the outer part of the rim is hollowed all round : this curious piece of wood is thruft into the hole, and is fecured there by the rim of the lip going round it, fixed in the hollow which is made round the wood. They appear to be worn large or fmall in proportion to the age of the women, or perhaps to the number of the children they have bore ; thofe that I took to be between thirty and forty years of age wore tHém about the fize of a fmall faucer, and the older larger in proportion ; one old woman, I remarked particularly, having one as large as a large faucej. The weight of cthis trencher or ornament weighs the lip down fo as to cover the whole of the chin, leaving all the lower teeth and gum quite naked and expofed, which gives them a very difagree- able appearance. When they eat, it is cuftomary for them to take more in the mouth at a time than they can poffibly fwallow ; when they have chewed it, the lip-piece ferves them as a trencher to put it out of their mouths on, and then they take it occafionally. It feems a general practice amon^ the females to wear the wooden ornament in their under- lip ; the children have^thfem bored at about two years of age, when a piece of copper-wire is put through the hole ; this they wear till the age of about thirteen or fourteen years, when it is taken out, and the wooden ornament introduced; its firft fize is about the width of a button. They likewife have their ears bored, where they •wear their ornaments of beads and other things. Their apparel is the fameifcind as wore by the men; both men P p ~i and li t'i mn mim CHAP'. XIII. » „ i 1787. Auguft. Tuefday 21. A VOYAGE TO THE and women being very fond of long hair, which is con- fidered as a great ornament. At the death of a friend the hair is cut off pretty fhort, which feems to be the general mourning of all Indian tribes. The women wear the hair either clubbed behind or tied up in a bunch on the crown of the head ; the men wear theirs either loofe or tied at the crown. The method of drefling the hair with birds- down is only practifed by the men. The women in general are hair-dreffers for their hufbands, which office they feem to perform with a great deal of dexterity and goodnature. Polygamy I think is not practifed here, as I never obferved any one of them to have more than one woman whom he feemed to confider as his wife, to whom they pay very Ariel: attention and treat with a great deal of affection and tendernefs : you cannot affront them more than by attempting to make advances to their wives. They likewife are very fond of, and remarkably affectionate to, their children. The women are the keepers of their treasures or riches,, which they generally have in a box or bafket, and always take the lead in fafhions, which they fhew by the placing of their ornaments, or fixing fuch a cu- riofity to be the favourite of the day. It is not the cuftom with thofe people, as with the South Sea iflanders, for the men and women to eat feparately, nor are the women confined to eat meats of a particular defcription ; but for men, women, and children, to fit down indifcriminately at their meals, which chiefly confift of fifh of different kinds ; fuch as falmon, which they have in the greatefl: abundance, muffels, and various other fhell-fifh, fea- otters, feals, and porpoifes ; the blubber of the porpoife 1 they BBS m mi NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 291 CHAP. XIII. 1787. Auguft. they are remarkably fond of, and indeed the flefh of any animal that comes in their way. I could never obferve that they had any quantity of dried falmon provided for a winter's flock; fo what they live on at that fevere part Toeday21, of the feafon I am at a lofs to find out, unlefs they catch land-animals in the neighbourhood of their winter quarters. I am greatly inclined to believe the principal part of their provifion at that feafon is confined to the inner fine bark of the pine-tree. Any tin kettles they get from us they make ufe of to drink out of. They boil their victuals in wooden veffels, by conftantly putting red- hot ftones into the water. Their perfons are in general much about the fize of Europeans. The men have a very fierce and favage afpect, which, with their drefs, gives them much the appearance of warriors ; their weapons of war are daggers and long pointed fpears ; they are very eafily irritated, and would make very little fcruple to kill you when they think themfelves injured.-*j§ More than once I had nearly experienced that fate, from fome trifling difagreements in trade ; but being pretty well acquainted with their tempers, I guarded as much againft them as poffible ; and on all occafions took care to be well provided for them in cafe of an attempt, by keeping my piftols ready-charged before me. Their women, were it not for the filth and naflinefs which continually cover them, would be by no means difagreeable ; their features in general are pleafing, and their carriage modefl. They frequently gave us opportunities to obferve their wifh to pleafe, particularly when the P p 2 wooding Ill :lif 1 111' till rails Hi 'Mill 292 C H A P. XIII.- <— . J 1787. Auguft. Tuefday- 21. A VOYAGE TO THE wooding party were onJfhore ; at thefe timesnthey would place themfelves in a line, and-oegin finging and making motions all thé time the men-were at work ; and if their droller^ happened to pleafevthe people, and make them laugh, they. affoimmèdiatdly fjoined in? a loud 'burtl of laughter^; : -and ^whéïi :-'thé^iind.ian5 were not there, 'they* would-affifkthe- people in getting wood and taking it to the feoats. They were particularly ufeful in taking the wood from the beach through the furf to the boat, as ikey were not enëumhfered with flioes and ftockings ; and it farvgd the men from'wettinig themfelves: But if at any time the Indians came to them at thé'=t'ime when tkeyJwere thus making themfelves ufeful, they would inftantly drive them all"-àWiâyc;.witkT-cvieryi3?ittl^ -&Êeremon§ft^ Upon • fuch occasions as thefe,-! fifed to givê-ffch©ipèOple final! brig&tt button' to make thceifE^prefents; ^itH which their f?ride and ambition were highly gratified. One time, not1*aving an opportunity of fending the boat on fhore at the ufual hour, to fetch the wooding-part-y on board, the women gave them an invitation to thftftft^iatntations, which was about three hulldred yards frorrtftlie place w4iere they Were at work ; and upon thil occafibn treated them (or offered to do it) with «very thing their wretched habitations afforded, and behaved very kindly to tMem. Their lints are made of a few fyoaïd-s, whi^h they take aa^ay \$4th tfhêm when they go to their winter quarters, It is very furprifing to îfëe how well they will fhape tkeir boards Hvith the fhocking tools they employ ; fome of tl$em being full teii feet long, two feet and a fcaif broad, and-aot more than an inch thick. :.^ ^SïjêiR I »r /teiffr ; We M^é&ki ' The •^Their language is harfh and unpleafant to the ear : a fpecimén of which.I have here given, fpelled as near the manner of their, pronunciation as I could give it : Hat feene You tes .- j; Hatata Caw-wout Hoetaa . , Caà conao JEeni Youtes-Gaatea - ■» A-gua-goone Cow-a-ka-na Onowlka La-la Claake Sulk Clacke Taike N-wfk Ta-koon - «■ Kacheene Clay too fhoe ."Tjack-a-joo-fhoe Nufk-a-too-fhae Coo-fhuck Cheene-caught Cheene-çauglit ca-ka-cheene .iron, blanket, water. young fea-otter. bad. hoftage or friendfhip. a box. the tongue. berries like a wild rajplerry* marmot or ermine fkin. one. two. three, four, five, fix. /even, eight, nine. ten. fifteen. They have a great number of curiofities amongft them, many of which fhew them to be a people of great ingenuity and contrivance. They make a curious bafket of twigSj, in which they frequently boil their victuals, by put- a-94 A VOYAGE TO THE 1787, Auguft. Tuefday 21 mm fii € *xin P' *mg red-hot ftones into them. They have tolerable ideas of carving, and indeed alkiQjJ every utenfijithey make ufe of has fome kind of rude carving, reprefenting one animal or other. Whilft Woodcock was with them, one of the women gave him a comb, which is made in fuch a manner as to reprefent an eagle ; an engraving of both fides of which I have given in the annexed plate. But as cu- riofities were not the articles we were in purfuit of, I gave ftrict charge to my people not to purchafe any tiling, being apprehenfive that if I allowed a traffic of that nature, the natives would not have been induced to have brought us any fkins for fâle, as they are very ufeful, and neceffary for their clothing, whilft the others are only the amufe- ments of their leifure hours, and many of them made by their women. I shall now take leave of my Indian traders, and for the laft time of the American coaft. The ineftimable value of their furs will ever make it a defirable trade, and whenever it is eflablifhed upon a proper foundation, and a fettlement made, will become a very valuable and lucrative branch of commerce. It would be an eafy matter for either Government or our Eafl India Gompany to make a fettlement of this kind ; and the thinnefs of the inhabitants will make it a matter of eafy practicability ; and as the Company are under the neceffity of paying the Chinefe in cafh for their teas, I look upon it a fettlement on this coaft might be affected at a very inconfiderable expence, which would more than pay them for every article that is brought from China. Another convenience likely to accrue, is from a well-known enterprifing character having, if he meets with proper encouragement from the country, in^ tentions ^J2_J^cW*i><-<^ W?4-. /î&/>/s.j/r <?*/ fu st r /. /Tito. /%, ^fj/dtt/h^a^csSC-^s .fore/f/t'tia . iSBr -** NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 295 tentions of going over land to thefe parts; by this means c **nA p° will be finally determined the long fought North Weft »—^—* paffage, with fome account of the interior parts of the Auguft. country, to which we are yet entire ftrangers. That fuch Tuefday 2I* an event may take place, muft be the wifh of every lover of his country; and though the enterprife is fraught with every danger that idea can fuggeft, yet what is it that Britifh valour dares not attempt ? On the 22d at daylight I fent Mr. Hay ward out to fee wednef.z^. what wind prevailed in the paflage ; in the meantime unmoored. About five o'clock Mr. Hayward returned; he found the wind light and variable, with fome fwell in the paffage. At feven o'clock a breeze fprung up about Weft North Weft,, with which we weighed, and came to fail,, and proceeded towards the entering of the Sound, which as we approached, we found the wind very light and variable, from Weft to Weft South Wefi% with a confiderable fwelh Heaving into the paflage about ten, the wind very faint, and almoft directly in, got the whale-boat and yaul a-head! to tow the fhip. At eleven very near calm, making"; very little progrefs ; but foon after a fleady moderate breeze. fprung up from the Weft, and juft about this time, the tide of ebb making, and the two boats a-head, we got out apace, the Indians in their boats following us at fome diftance, and on our getting out of the paflage, they returned and went into the Sound*. On the 23d about one o'clock we cleared the rocks Thurfday M which lie off the South point of the harbour, and flood away South, the wind at Wefl South Weft. On the 24th. Friday 24, a breeze at South Eaft by South, with thick rainy weather, with which we ftood to the South Weft by Souths the >»: um «• *i ii SJP p#"H 1 tktt. a96 A VOYAGE TOT H E C xnf P' tne lanc^ *n &tïat j no obfervation. The 25th light winds and variable, with thick drizzling rain, fleering South Weft half South. On the 26th a frefh breeze and foggy, fleering South South Eaft, the wind at South Weft. The 27th a frefh gale from Wefl North Wefl, and cloudy, fleering South South Eaft. On the 28 th a frefh gale from North Weft, with fog at times. Paffed fome drift wood, a feal, and feveral pieces of fea-leek : our latitude 500 6' North, i787. Auguft. Saturday 25. Sunday 26. Monday 27. m iiKM NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 297 CHAP. XIV. Paffage from theCoaft to the Sandwich Iflands.—TranfaSlions there.—Letters received from Captain Dixon and Mr. Rofs.—Some Particulars received from Taa-boo-a-raa- ne refpeEling the Death of Captain Cook.—Defcription of the White Tern.—Cruelty of. the Chiefs to their Inferiors.—Obfervations on a Trade to Botany Bay from thefe Iflands.—Our final Departure from them.—Paffage to China.—Arrival there. WEDNESDAY 29th Auguft 1787, to Sunday 16th chap. September : nothing in the courfe of this time oc- . XIV' , curred which claims particular notice; but being- now in I l7Sl' 1 \ o September. longitude 13 6° 24, there is a fmall ifland faid to have Sunday 16. been difcovered by fome Spanifh navigator, and laid down, the North part of it, in latitude 2 6° 50' North, and longitude of the Weft part of it 1350 o Weft; and at two judging myfelf about five leagues to the Northward of that latitude, and in the longitude of 1360 20' Weft, I thought it not prudent to run nearer its latitude until daylight; therefore at two in the morning tacked and ftood to the Weft North Weft until half paft three, when I ftood again to the Southward. At four, a moderate breeze and cloudy weather, the wind at South Weft, Handing to the South- South Eaft, and at daylight there was no appearance of land. Q^q On \M » 29& A VOYAGE TO THE ?1 ■;$t» ° *xiv P* On t^ie 17^» attwo m tne morning, Handing to the South 1787. Friday 28. ;fsiiil by Eafl, faw a large flight of flying fifh, the firft during September, the paffage. At 2h 30" I got two fets of diftances of the fun Mon ay 17. ^^ m0on, which gave the longitude at that time 136* 8/ 15" Weft. I judge thefe fights to be the moft. accurate I had taken, and therefore fhall fuppofe the longitude deduced from them to be the true longitude of the fhip. At Tuefday i8. £ve jn the morning faw a few tropic birds, and fome bottle- Thurfday27. nofed porpoifes. From this time to the 27 th nothing happened to engage attention ; and then, at half paft eight we faw the high land of Owhyhee, bearing Weft South Weft half Weft, diftant fifteen or twenty leagues; and on the 28 th at five in the morning, at which time it was daylight, we found ourfelves about two leagues, and a half from the land : at which time we bore up, and made fail towards the fhore*. At half paft five we were about fix miles from the fhore, when a multitude of canoes came off with the different productions of the ifland ; fuch as hogs, fowls, bread-fruit, taro, plantains, and a few cocoa-nuts. Of the other articles they brought us an abundant fupply; and although there was a heavy fwell, and the day unfettled, fome of them made three or four trips to fhore before the evening came on for other cargoes, as they difpofed of their firft. We remained within four or five miles of the fhore, from feven in the morning until about feven in the evening, during which time I fuppofe we bought of hogs and pigs near two hundred; fowls about fix dozen; about three tons of bread-kind; fome bafs rope and fifhing-lines, enough, when laid up, to make; about 150 fathom of two-inch rope, the beft lines that can be made ; and we found very little troublé in trading with them, and bought provifions very cheap. They brought very oe NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ry little fait ; and I think very little of that article can c procured about the ifland, except on the Weft fide, | where it may be bought in great abundance. The whole day about fourteen hands were employed in killing and faking for fea flore, and by the evening we had faked about two tierces. A number of the large hogs we fkin— ned, finding their fkins of great ufe, for the purpofe of leathering the foot of our fails. To preferve the fkins we let them lie twenty-four hours in pickle, and then hung them up to dry.. After they had been two or three days hanging out, we made them up in bundles, and, by airing them now and then, found they would keep any length of time. At noon, fqually unfettled weather, with fome rain, the wind about Eaft North Eaft ; the NorthernmOft parts of the ifland in fight Weft by Norths the Eaft part of the ifland covered with fqualls ; ouridiflance from the nearefl part of the ifland about five miles. I could not learn from thefe people of any fhip having been lately at this ifland. 299 h a XIV. 1787. September. Friday 28. Saturday, September 29th, 1787, light variable winds, Saturday 29, with frequent fhowers of rain, a very, heavy fwell from the North Eafl rolling in on fhore, which made the fiirf very furious on the rocks. At four in the morning, although only four or five miles from the fhore, the weather was fo thick, that we could not fee it : at half paft five in the morning it cleared up a little, when the Northernmoft part of the land in fight bore Weft by North half North, eight or ten leagues diftant, and the Eaft point bore South by Eaft. At fin in the evening a light breeze at Eaft, with open cloudy weather. Two canoes remained with us until this time, when they went for the fhore. At eight Qjl 2 in M VOYAGE TO THE C -xiv P' *n ^e evening> judging myfelf about three leagues from the land, at which diftance I wifhed to keep during the September, night, we hauled up our courfes, and under our top-fails Saturday 20. ^^ tQ ^ North ^ £aft about ^ knQt and | j^f j|| hour, until midnight; then wore fhip, and ftood to the South Eaft by South a knot and a half per hour, until two in the morning ; then wore again, and ftood to the North North Eaft, until four in the morning, at which time we wore and ftood to the South Eaft until daylight, which was about half an hour paft four. We then found ourfelves about three leagues from the land, bore up, and run in about South Weft, until about half paft feven. We were then about five miles from the fhore, the canoes coming off in numbers, and at eight a brifk trade began for provifions and other neceflaries ; hauled off to the North by Eaft, with a light breeze from the Eaft by North. A heavy fwell rolling in, made it neceflary to keep the fhip under fail ; and with all the fail we could make, we could fcarce hold our own againft it,. At noon a moderate breeze from the Eaftward, with clear weather, the Eaft point of Owhyhee bore South Eaft by South about twelve leagues, and the Northermoft part of the ifland in fight Weft by North about nine or ten leagues, our diftance from the nearefl fhore about four or five miles : no obfervation to be depended on. During the day caught feveral very large fharks. It is really aflo- nifhing to fee how little thefe people appear to dread thofe fifh. I have feen five or fix large fharks fwimming about the fliiip, when there have been, I dare fay, upwards of an hundred Indians in the water, men and women ; they feemed quite indifferent about them, and the fharks never offered NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. toi offered to make an attack on any of them, and yet at the c 5rA p* fame time would feize our bait greedily ; whence it is ma- »—K| nifeft, that they derive their confidence of fafety, from their September, experience that they are able to repel the attacks of thofe Saturday 2§' devouring monflers. On Sunday, September 30th, a moderate breeze from Sunday 0. the Eaftward, with pleafant weather. A vafl number of canoes about the fhip, which remained with us till between three and four in the evening, when having fold all n,** their cargoes, and gratified their curiofity, they returned to the fhore. By this time I fuppofe we had bought about three hundred hogs and pigs, and an abundant fupply of bread-kind. About four in the evening, with a fine little breeze from the North Eaft by Eaft, we made fail from the ifland, and ftood to the North Weft by North, meaning to run down, on the North fide of the iflands to Atoui, where, if the Queen Charlotte had been before us, I fhould expect ta receive fome intelligence ; if not, I fhould have an opportunity of leaving a letter' witk our old friend Abbenooe for captain Dixon, in cafe he fhould call at that ifland. At four in the evening the Northernmoft part of Owhyhee in fight, Weft three quarters North, and the Eafl point South South Eaft half Eaft, from the nearefl fhore about four leagues. At fix the North point of Owhyhee bore Weft about nine or ten leagues, and the Eaft: point South by Eaft three quarters Eaft, twelve or fourteen leagues diftant, and the high land of Mowee fronr Weft North Weft half Weft to North Wefl by Weft half Weft. At eight, moderate and cloudy weather; at midnight, light winds, with open cloudy weather; fleering North Weft by North, about two knots, and a half per hour, the wind at. Wm Wt S'lu \\KmK mm.i -$& A VOYAGE TO THE ■ ' C xiv P' at ^a^- North ^aft. At four in the morning a light breeze »—-—' from the Eaft South Eaft, with cloudy weather. At eight September, the Eaft point of Owhyhee bore éouth Eaft by South, and Sunday 3o. ^ North point bore g^^ Weft> liftant from the neareft fhore feven or eight leagues ; the ifland of Mowee extending from Weft half South to Weft by North. During the day a number of hands were employed in killing and faking pork for fea flore. Oaober. Monday 1. Tuefday 2. Wednef. 3. Monday, ill October, foon after dark, I was furprifed to hear fome Indians calling out to us, and immediately faw a canoe paddling towards the fhip. She came along- fide, and remained a few minutes ; when fhe returned towards the fhore : fhe was from Mowee, and had nothing lor fale except a few bits of cloth. It is furprifing how thefe people do venture off in their tieklifh canoes. This one was_fo fmall that fhe would hardly contain the two men that paddled her. Tue-sday the 2d, at noon a moderate breeze at Eafl by North, with fair pleafant weather: the extremes of Woahoo South 3 8° Eafl, and South 730 Eaft, diftant from the neareft part about feven or eight leagues: the ifland of Atoui extending from South 8o° Weft to North 8o°'Wefl, diftant about twelve leagues. Latitude obferved 210 58' North. At four in the morning a moderate breeze at North by Eaft, and fair weather. Soon after four hauled in for the land, and at daylight (which was foon after five) we found ourfelves about two leagues from the South point of Atoui, at which time we edged away for Wymoa Bay. In run- 7 ning NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA, 3°3 CHAP. XIV. 1787. Q&ober, ning along-fhore a number of canoes, both large and fmall, came off to us, but brought hardly any articles of provi- fion. I learnt from them, that the king and moft of the principal men of the ifland were at Oneehow, and that, Wednef- 3 previous to their fetting off for that ifland, they had tabooed the hogs, which effectually put a flop to our getting any. I alfo learnt from thefe people, that the Nootka and Queen Charlotte had been at the ifland. The Nootka, they gave me to underftand, did not anchor, but proceeded to Oneehow, where fhe lay fome time. The Queen Chai lotte, they told me, anchored in Wymoa Bay, and remained two days, when fhe left the ifland and ftood to the Southward. I found from their information, that captain Dixon had left a letter for me with Abbenooe, and that it lay at his houfe at Wymao; I, therefore ftretched in for the bay, and when about a mile and a half from the fhore, brought-to, with the main-topfail to the maft. Between eight and nine a young man, named Tahiree, a fon of Abbenooe's, came on board, and informed me that the letter was tabooed in the houfe, and that I could not set it until Abbenooe either came himfelf, or fent directions for its being delivered. I thought the befl flep I could take was, immediately to pufh for Oneehow, and anchor, where I might have an opportunity of procuring fome yams, whilft a meffenger was going to Atoui for the letter. I accordingly bore up about ten in the morning, and made fail for Oneehow, with a fair breeze at Eaft South Eaft, and fair weather. At noon a moderate breeze with fair weather, Atoui extending from Eaft by North to North North Eaft, Wymoa Bay North Eaft by Eaft about IB 3°4 A VOYAGE TO THE 11 II 111 c 178- Oftober. Wfldnef. 3. : xiv P' a^out four-leagues; the South point of Oneehow South Weft by Weft, three quarters Weft, feven or eight leagues; and the ifland of Orehaw North Wefl by Weft, eight leagues: latitude obferved, 210 51' North. Tahiree, Abbenooe'^s fon, and one or two others, took their paffage with us from Atoui to Oneehow; and from them I learnt, that there had been fome difturbance between the Nootka and them, and that Tyaana, a principal chief .of Atoui, had gone off with the Nootka. ^hurfday^ A moderate breeze from South Eaft, with fair weather, fteeering to the South Weft half Weft, at the rate of three knots an hour. At four, the Northernmoft part of Oneehow in fight North North Eaft, diftant about three leagues, and the South head Weft by South, diftant about two miles. At fix in the evening came to an anchor on the South Weft fide of Oneehow in fixty-two fathoms water, a fine white fandy bottom,, and veered to a cable and a half, the South head bearing over a point of land Eaft South Eaft half Eaft, diftant about four or five miles, the Wefl point North io° Eafl, diflant about two leagues; and the Peaked Mountain bearing over the low land, North 400 Eaft, our diftance from the fhore about two miles. It was by no means neceffary to.anchor in fuch deep water as we then lay in, as, by going about half a mile nearer the fhore, you may anchor in forty fathoms, a tolerable good bottom, and at a fufficient diftance from the fhore; and I would advife no perfon to anchor in lefs water about this ifland, as, if they do, they Hand a hazardous chance of being in foul ground. No canoes came off. At midnight light and variable winds, with clear pleafant weather. At 5 nine NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 3°5 xiv. 1787. Oclober. Friday 5. nine in the morning two canoes came along-fide, of which c **.A p* we purchafed a prefent fupply of yams. The people of thofe canoes told me that Abbenooe would be on board in a little time, accompanied by the king and his principal men. Towards noon no appearance of any canoes ; I came to the determination of fending our whale-boat and yaul on fhore, to try if any yams could be purchafed from the natives; meaning, if Abbenooe did not make his appearance towards the evening, to fail from the ifland. At noon light variable winds, with fome fmart fhowers of rain. Sent the boats on fhore under the direction of Meffrs.. Hayward and Bryant. The moft of thefe twenty-four hours a frefh breeze and variable from Eaft South Eaft, around by the Eaft to North Eaft, with fome fhowers of rain. About two in the afternoon the king, accompanied by Abbenooe and moft of fhe other principal men of Oneehow and Atoui, came on board, and brought with them a good quantity of yams and potatoes. I learned from Abbenooe, that captain Dixon's letter was at Wymoa, to which place he affured me he would fend for it immediately ; preffing me very hard to remain until the return of the meffenger, which he told me would, be in about- thirty-fix hours. Judging that I could procure yams, fufficient to laft us to China, I promifed him I would flay ; and he accordingly difpatched a canoe immediately for it, under the care of a trufty meffenger; and in the mean time we carried on a very brifk trade for yams and water, which the natives brought off to the fhip in their canoes ; the water in large calabafhes. Towards the evening the boats returned on board, not having purchafed many yams. Abbenooe obit r ferving Ml im wï- If* 300 CHAP. XIV. Oftober. Friday 5. ilM&l B Ifflffl A VOYAGE T O T H E fervino- one of the people who was juft returned from fhore to have only one fhoe on, enquired what was become of the other ; and the man telling him he had loft it in the furf juft as he got into the boat; my old friend defired him to point out the place and he would go and look for it ; observing at the fame time, that one fhoe only was of little ufe. I attempted to diffuade him from going, as the evening now came on and the wind blew very frefh, bût all to no purpofe. Abbenooe, bent on going to fearch for the fhoe, took a canoe that we kept for his ufe, and paddled away for the beach ; and in lefs than an hour he returned on board, bringing the fhoe and buckle, and was pleafed to the laft degree that he had been fuccefsful in his undertaking. My old friend acquainted me of the Nootka having failed from this place about a month ago, and captain Dixon having failed from Atoui about eighteen or twenty days ago. He gave me to underftand that the Nootka and them parted on bad terms, but that captain Dixon and they parted on terms p'êifectrly friendly. He told me that they had been fired on by the Nootka, but that no perfon had been hurt ; he alfo confirmed the account of Ty-e-a-naa's having gone off with the Nootka. Towards the evening the king and moft; of the principal people went on fhore; Abbenooe and a few others remained on board with Saturday 6, us all night. In the morning began again a brifk trade for yams and water. At noon a frefh breeze from the Nortk Eaft, with open cloudy weather. Fresh breezes from North Eaft, with open cloudy weather. The whole of thefe twenty-four hour&employed 4 :"*« * purchafing NORTHlWESTTCOAST QROAMERICA. 3°7 purcKaffngiiyâms and water. In the morning I received a c ** a' p- letter, by the hands of one of the chiefs, from Mr. Da- v- -.■*-* vid Rofs, chief mate of the fnow Nootka ; in which oaofc. he mentioned their taking failed from this ifland on the Saturda? 6* 5 th day of the laft month dlktp "iikewife informed me that they left afïianchor in Yam Bay, andTuppofed that their cable was cut by the Indians ; but I fhould rather fuppofe by the rocks. Some other letters were received by different people on board from the Nootka, which gave an account of their having loft an anchor at Mowee, and a large grapnel at fome other place, A fresh breeze from the Eaftward, with open cloudy Sunday f weather, moft of thefe twenty-four hours. In the evening bufily employed in purchafing yams and water ; and by fix o'clock had completed that bufinefs ; having procured about twelve tons of yams, a quantity of potatoes, and filled feven butts and two puncheons of water; at eight in the morning the meffenger returned from Atoui with captain Dixon's letter, which I found dated the 18 th of September; and that he had left the coaft on the 9th of Auguft, all well, and with fifteen hundred fkins. He likewife informed me, that off King George's Sound he fell in with a fhip and floop under Company's colours ; I fhould fuppofe our Company's, the fhip called the Prince of Wales, commanded by a captain Colnett ; the floop's name he did not mention; fhe was commanded by a captain Duncan ; and Mr. John Etches was fupercargo. Captain •Colnett informed him that he had juft come out of Kins: George's Sound; at which place he had found lying a fhip under Imperial colours, commanded by captain Barclay, and Rr 2 manned "VMB m 1787. Oftober Sunday 7 A VOYAGE TO THE R manned by Englifhmen. He faid notîhiûg of their fuccefs or intentions. &J| Immediately on tne receipt of this letter I began to heave fhort. About half paft: akine we were under way. We lay-to until near noon ; when, having finifhed a letter for captain Colnett, or Duncan, or any other commander belonging to the King George's Sound company, and delivered it to the careiisf my old fridftd Abbenooe, we made fail from the ifland at noon, and fleered to the Weft by South, intending, after getting clear of Taahoora, and the fhoal (called by the Indians Modoo-papapa, which i mver faw, but judge from the information I have received from different Indians, to lie about Wefl South Weft from Tanoora at a little diftance), to haul to the Southward as .far as 140 or 130 30' North, as the fafeft track, until we got the length of the Ladrones. On quitting our friends thereabouts, I muft do them the jiiftice to fay we have ever found them friendly and ufeful. A man of fome note, named Ta-boo-a-raa-nee, belonging to Owhyhee, took his paffage with us to this place, and was received by the king and principal men with much fatisfadion. I faw a very flriking likenefs between him and Ka-nee-na, who was killed at the time captain Cook fell, and who was always a moft friendly chief. I inquired if he knew Ka-nee-na ; at which he feemed furprifed, and hefitated for fome time, feemingly. confidering what anfwer he fhould make me ; at laft he informed me that he was his own brother ; of which I had little doubt, from the great refemblance of their fea- 13 tures. Mi Mm NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 509 1787. Oftober.. Sunday 7» turcs. Ta-boo-a-raa-nee is a well-made, tall, handfome c J*A p* fellow ; and from what I could judge of him, had a dif- pofition equally good with his unfortunate brother. He could fcarcely refrain from tears while fpeaking of him, and affured me that to the laft moment of his life he was our fincere and faithful friend. I afked htm if captain Cook was killed with a pa-ho-a ? He told me no ; that he was killed with another weapon ; the point entering in between the fhoulders, and coming out at his breaft. And I am certain he was right in his explanation of the infiniment; for on my fhewing him a pa-ho-a, he faid that was not it, and hunted about the cabin till he found a bayonet, and affured me that the Orono was killed with an infiniment of that kind. And it is very probable it might be fo, as the natives had got fome from the fhips,, either by ftealtk or by trading with the people ; and I am inclined to believe the man knew, as he informed me, that he was prefent when captain Cook was killed.. He faid a great number of their people were wounded from the fire at different times, the greatefl part of whom died,, particularly thofe that were wounded in the body ; fuck as recovered were only wounded in the flefhy parts. He told me that the prefent king Co-ma-aa-ma-a and other chiefs were very much afraid of coming on board ;: dreading our refenting the fate of our countrymen. He informed me that Pa-reea is the principal chief around Karakakooa Bay, and is at prefent in great efteem. He confirmed the account of old Te-ree-o-boo's dying a natural death, and being fueceeded by his relation Co-ma- aa-ma-aa, and that he was much lamented by his fubjecfs, Ta-boo-a-raa-nee likewife gave gave me an account of two veffels having anchored in Karakakooa Bay, where they I mm 11 iipfif pi fil In' 310 C H A XIV. v, ■ ..—— 1787. Odlober. Sunday 7. Iii! il A VOYAGE TO THE they remained five days. He faid they were fhips from Britania, and in the two had fifteen women and eight children on board, and defcribed them as European women.. This I looked on as a ftrange account ; and well knowing that thefe people are very apt to invent ftories, I gave no credit to that part of the account refpecting the women and children being on board : the reft might poffibly be true, though one improbable circumftance rendered the whole doubtful and.fufpicious ; for though.there feems to be a kind ofpropenfity generally prevailing among thefe people to ii¥? vent and contrive reports, with a viewtopleafe and oblige, yet there is another quality which feems the moft predominant in them of all others, and which is always vifible in thofe who are veiled with any degree of authority or power, or are anyways elevated or exalted to a ftation fuperior to their neighbours; for arrogance, infolence, and voracity, are the diftinguifhing properties by which their inferiors are taught to dread them, and be awed into the moft fubmiffive obedience to their commands, however oppo- fite to their eafe, intereft, or fafety; infomuch that I have feen a confiderable chief at Woahoo fit in his canoe along- fide, without an article for fale himfelf, and watch a poor fellow that had perhaps paddled from the oppofite ' fide of the ifland with all his family, and perhaps all their worldly property and fubflance ; fuch as two or three pio-s, a few plantains, pieces of cloth, and fome bread-fruit * and after felling their little cargo, and getting for it a few bits of iron and fome little. trinkets, things (the iron.k^ particular) that are ineftimable to them.; that greedy and tyrannical chief hath jumped out of his canoe into the water, fwaxn to the poor man, and demanded of kim every article.which he had feen him receive, which was inflantly /m ■■ i'f'll ■IS TEW m pHiijW m I M 'M' 'III! m U ill LJrit! Pf: It il ï NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 311 C H A P. XIV. 1787. Oaober. inftantly given up. On tkefe occafions Î fpoke to the king, who made me underftand that it was warranted by their eflablifhed cuftom. And after receiving fuch an anfwer, I was apprehenfive that any further attempts to intercede onday 7 on the poor man's behalf might aggravate the injury to the fufferers, and be productive of worfe and more ferious confequences to him, as well as create fome difguft to me, for prefuming to call in queftion, or fuggefting the impropriety of the rules by which they were governed ; and therefore I waved the fubject, and defifted from my purpofe, though urged to it by all the feelings of pity and compaffion. Among the variety of occurrences that happened during our laft vifit to Atoui, the reader may recollect the cir- cumftance of Pooareare (a meffenger belonging to the king) obliging an old chief by force to difcover where his trea- fures were depofited, and afterwards feizing on them as his own. As we left the ifland foon after that tranfaction, I had no opportunity of learning how it terminated ; but when Abbenooe came on board at Oneehow, he informed me, that when Taaao heard of the affair, he was fo much dif- pleafed with the meffenger, that he ordered Pooareare (although a favourite) to be put to death for the robbery, and his cruelty to the poor old man. This order was executed by a chief named Namaateerae, whofe courage and activity have already been fpoken of. Namaateerae found the culprit in a village fituated a little to the Eaftward of Wymoa, where he attacked, and, after fome refiftancef killed him with a pahoa. The «Ml Hi .!(!■ !' tti hSi m s*2 CHAP. XIV. 1787. OclobeiV Sttoday 7. A VOYAGE TO THE Tne mefYenger alfo happened to have a pahoa, but was fo unequal a match for the warrior,1 that it was of no ufe to him. These inftances ferve to fhew, that though the common people are plundered at the pleafure of their fupe- riors, yet the chiefs are not fuffered to affault and rob eack other with impunity. Most of .the birds met with at the Sandwich Iflands are already well known. However, I brought a fpecimen of the white tern home with me ; and as I do not find that it has yet been figured in any Englifh work, I have procured a correct drawing of it, froni whence the annexed engraving is taken ; and with Mr. Latham's permiffion, have taken the following defcription from the fixth volume of his Synopfis of Birds, p. 363, where an account of it is given. White Tern.—Length thirteen inches, breadth thirty ; bill flender, black ; eyelids the fame ; the general colour of the plumage white as fnow ; but the fhafts of the fca- pular quills, and tail, except the three outer feathers, are black ; the tail is forked in fhape, and fhorter than the wings when clofed by an inch ; legs brown ; webs orange ; claws black. In fome thereis a flight mixture of brown on the head. This bird inhabits various places of the Southern hemifphere ; having been met with off the ifland of Saint Helena, the Cape of Good Hope, India, and many of the iflands of the South Sea. With mmmmmt NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. With refpecf to the defcription of the natives of thefe iflands, I mean their perfons, their houfes, canoes, cuf- toms, civil, military, and religious, I refer the reader to the more full account of captains Cook and King. But one piece of advice I will venture to give to thofe whofe bufinefs may lead them to thefe iflands, for the purpofe of watering and refrefhing, is this, that they make the ifland of Owhyhee, a little * to the Southward of the Eafl point, and run down the South fide of the ifland. There is no danger but what fhews itfelf, nor indeed did I perceive any that lay half a mile from the fhore, until you come the length of the South point. There is off that point a reef that runs off about a mile, which is eafily difcovered by breakers and coloured water. In this run you may get fmall hogs and vegetables enough for prefent fupply; and after hauling round the South point, you will begin to get a fupply of fait, which article cannot be procured at the Eaftern part of the ifland ; I mean not after you get to the Eaftward and Northward of Karakakooa Bay; and as you draw towards Karakakooa, you will get a plentiful fupply of fine hogs, bread-fruit, and fweet potatoes, taro, fugar-cane, and cocoa-nuts. C HAP. XIV. 1787. Oftober. Sunday 7. This ifland is not famous for the fweet root; and between Karakakooa and the South "point you may procure all the refrefhments the ifland affords, and you may alfo get the natives to bring off frefh water enough for prefent ufe. Take care they do not cheat you, by filling their calla- bafhes with fait water, which they will do, and fell it, if you are not careful in tailing: feveral of my people were cheated this way. And hereabouts is the fituation I would recommend for faking pork ; you will have the open and un- S f confined M i if 1,1 M rw 'Mill' 3*4 CHAP. XIV. Oclober. Sunday j. 1 ..Si Monday 8. A VOYAGE TO THE confined air, and at the fame time moderate breezes and fmooth water, which enables the canoes to come off with greater care and fafety with their hogs and fait. From this part I would advife the navigator to run for the Weft end of Ranai (the bearings and diftances of thefe iflands from each other will be found, by coniulting the chart of them in captain Cook's laft voyage), and from that point fail directly for the Weft point of Morotoi. Should night come on, there is anchorage to the Northward of the Weft point of Morotoi, flickered from the prevailing winds. After leaving this ifland, fail directly for the South Eafl point of Woahoo, and on rounding that point anchor in King George's Bay. If found neceffary to flay there any time, it would be advifable to buoy the cables. At this ifland I would advife the watering and wooding bufinefs to be done^ not by fending on fhore for either articlèj but by encouraging the natives to bring tjhem to the veueh Tb give any further directions refpecting the navigation amongft thefe iflands would be -fuperfluous, as every particular on that head may be collected from the detail of occurrences during our fécond vifit to them. I cannot help obferving, that I think their fituation and produce may be productive of material benefit to our new fettlement at Botany Bay, and at the fame time be a confiderable faving to government in the articles of provifions, which* may be purchafed here at a trifling expence. A fresh1 breeze, with hazy weather, the wind at Eaft; the Weft end of Takoora bore South 150 Eaft, diftant feven m m NORTH WESTCOAST OF AMERICA. 3T5 feven or éigkt leagues, the South head of Oneehow Eaft c ^A p about eleven or twelve leagues diftant, and the Northern- raoft part of the ifland in fight North 650 Eafl. 1787. Oftober. Monday 8. At noon a fine gale, with pleafant weather, latitude obfèrved, 210 26' North, longitude about 1610 56' Weft. Taking our departure from the ifland of Tahoora, it lying in the latitude of 210 43' North, and longitude 1600 24/ Wefl of Greenwich, variation about of Eaft. From this time to the 4th of November nothing particular occurred. A fresh gale from the North Eaft, with hazy wea- November. ther, fleering Wefl North Wefl half Weft, five knots per Sunday *' hour. At five in the evening I got a fet of azimuths, which gave the variation y° 54' Eafl; at eight hauled in the lower fleering-fails. At this time, according to the fituation given Tinian by captain Cook,, Eafl point latitude neareft 140 55' North, and longitude 2130 45' Weft of Greenwich, I judged it to bear North 840 Weft, and diftant eighty-four miles ; and as we had a fine brifk gale from the North Eaft, with clear weather, I determined to run on all night, hoping to get a fight of the ifland about daylight, which is between five and fix. At midnight a fine fleady fix and a half knot gale from the North Eaft. At two in the morning a feven knot gale, hauled in the top- maft fleering-fails. Juft at daylight, which was about half paft five, faw the iflands of Say pan and Tinian, the North point of Saypan bearing Weft North Weft, diflant about feven or eight leagues, and the Eaft point of Tinian bearing South Weft half Weft, diftant eleven or twelve leagues, the North point of Tinian fhut in with the S f 2 South 1$T 111 ii m mv ri ifif 316 C H A XIV A VOYAGE TO THE ■ p- South point of Saypan. At this time our latitude, by ac- *■ ' count, was ï 50 16'North, and longitude, from obfervations November, brought forward, 213° i % 30" Weft. The Eaft end of an ay 4, Tinian, according to captain Cook's chart, fhould then have bore 5 50 oo' Weft thirty-feven miles, and the bearing we then had of it was 5 8° oo/ Weft, and as near as I could guefs diftant about thirty-three miles ; therefore I fhall conclude, that the fituation given thofe iflands by captain Cook is very nearly the truth. We continued to Hand on to the Weft North Weft half Weft, with a frefh gale from the North Eaft by North until fix, when we altered the courfe to Weft, and fet fleering-fails. We flood in Weft until feven o'clock, then fleered South Wefl by Wefl and South Weft by South, ranging along the Eaft fide of Say- pan, at the diftance of about two leagues and a half. At half paft eight, the paffage between Sàypan and Tinian open, fleered for it, and about nine paffed clofe to the South end of Saypan ; immediately to the Weftward of which point is a good bay, with perfect: fmooth water and a fine fandy beach, on which there was fcarce any furf. I did not fland into the bay, therefore cannot fpeak as to the foundings; but I dare fay the anchorage may be very^ good. A little to the Weftward of this bay is another, which looks well for anchorage. In paffing through this paffage, which trends about Weft by North and Eaft by South, diftance from one ifland to the other between two and three leagues, we obferved no foul grounds lying off from either ifland, until we got nearly through; then dif- cerned a reef lying from' the South Wefl point of Saypan, North Weft, diftant about half a mile. Indeed, all the Weft fide of Sayphan appears to be bounded by a reef running nearly the fame diftance from the fhore; and from the faid South 8 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 317 South Weft point is a fmall ifland, bearing North half c **.A p* Weft, diftant three or four leagues ; from which ifland *-—-~—' there is a reef running off in the direction of about South No/ember. Weftj to the diftance of a league and a half; and there is aa ay 4* alfo a reef running off from this fmall ifland that feems to join to Sayphan. |||j We;obferved a number of white animals grazing on the |§1 plains of Tinian, which we fuppofe to be the white cattle that Lord Anfon fays the ifland of Tinian fo much abounds with. We could not, although within half a mile of Saypan, obferve an animal of any kind. Both iflands appear beyond defcription beautiful^abounding in immenfe quantities of Cocoa-nut and other trees. We could not pafs fo. near thefe beautiful iflands without wifhing very much to partake of the refrefhments they could fo amply furnifh us with, particularly.the frefh beef and acid fruits, articles. to which we have been flrangers for upwards of two years : but as through the blefling of God we were all in perfect healtk, and not being in Heed of any refrefhments,. and having a fine- fleady. brifk gale, I thought it moft advifable to pufh on for China; therefore, after getting through the paffage, ftood away to the Weft North ; Weft, with a brifk gale at North Eaft by North* And to the honour of the King George's fhip's company be it ever remembered, that on this fo tempting an occafion (as indeed on all others), not a murmur was heard, nor a dif- contented face feen. From this time to the 15th November nothing occurred in particular to excite the reader's attention. A fresh \fim MW .*■ Mm îwt il IXMl 3& mmm m w iilill 2(jii ii si CHAP. XIV. 1787. November. Whxaféay. 15. • JSl VOYAGE TO THE A press breeze from the North Eaft, with hazy weather and a heavy fea from the North Eaft, with which we are fleering about Weft South Weft, down towards the South point of the fmall Botel Tobago Xima. About two in the afternoon we paffed the reef, which runs off its South Eaft point at the diftance of about half a mile, and then hauled to the Weft by North, with a fix knot gale at North Eaft. 'Thofe iflands I found to lie in the latitude of 210 52' North, and longitude of 2 3 8° 35' Weft, lying nearly North and South of each other, with an apparently good pafîage of about two or three miles broad between them. On the South Weft part of the large ifland the land appeared to bend in and form a good bay, well fheltered from the North Eafl winds. We obferved a little wood, but it appeared to be low arid fmall. The Weftern fide of the large ifland appeared very green and pleafant, and in -many places was laid out in cultivated plots, and in feveral places along the fhore were towns of confiderable extent. We did not attempt to haul in for anchorage, but continued to fleer over Weft by North to make the ifland of Formofa, and at half paft three I faw it, the South point bearing Weft by North, diftant about ten or eleven leagues. At four a fine gale at North Eaft, with which we fleered Weft by North fix knots per hour; the large Botel Tobago Xima bearing North by Weft half Weft, and Eaft by North, diftant from the neareft part of it about four leagues, and the fmall Botel Tobago Xima bearing Eaft 740 North, diftant about five leagues. At five hauled to the North Weft by Weft, the wind at North North Eaft, the extremes of Botel Tobago Xima bearing .North Eaft by Eaft half Eaft, diftant about five leagues, and NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. WÊ 1787. November, Thurfday «5, and Eaft by North fix leagues, the South point of Formofa c **A p* Weft half South, diftant about eight leagues. At fix a frefk gale at North North Eaft, with dark cloudy weather. We then clofe-reefed the topfails, wore fhip, and ftood to the Eaftward. At half paft four faw a large light on the ifles of Botel Tobago Xima, bearing Eaft South Eaft-: wore fhip, and ftood to the North Weft, the wind at North Eaft. At midnight a frefh gale, with cloudy weather. At four in the morning wore fhip, and flood to the Eaft by North; and at half paft five day-light, when we bore, away to the South South Weft, and made fail, fet fleering- fails. In the courfe of the night we had a current, which fet us about fix leagues to the Northward along the coaft of Formofa; the South point of which ifland bore South Wefl half South, diftant about five leagues, and the Northernmoft part' of the faid ifland in fight North by Weft, diftant about twelve leagues. Up main-topgallant yard, and fet the fail : we were fleering along fhore South South Weft towards the Sourk». point, at the rate of fix and a half and feven knots per hour, our diftance from the fhore abreaft about two leagues,. and in running down faw a good appearance, of an harbour about four or five leagues to the Northward of the South point, whick feemed to run in in about a South Weft direction, and between that and the Soutk point feveral- fmall hammock rocks, lying at a little diftance from the. fhore. The coaft that we run down along might be approached within three or four miles without any danger. At half paft ten paffed around the South point within about a mile of the fhore. 'From off this point there is a reef runs off about half a mile... In about a South South Eaft direction we faw nothing of the Ville Rete rocks, it being very thick in their direction,, and. after, paffing the South I I 1 320 A VOYAGE TO THE ilMiii! m\ Ii m C xiv ?* point, we hauled to the Weft North Weft, at the rate of •—. 1 fix anc[ feven knots an hour. Immediately on getting November, round the South point, I obferved the land to bend fhort T>urday 15. ^ tQ tj^e Northward, anc[ form a very good bay for fhelter againft the North Eaft winds, the water in the bay quite frnooth, and fcarce any furf on the beach. I had an intention of anchoring upon this coaft, and would have done it, had I feen any inhabitants or habitations to have entered into a traffic with them; but as I faw no appearance of this part of the land being peopled, I gave up the idea, and proceeded on towards the coaft of China, with a frefh gale at North Eaft by North, with frequent gufts from the land, and dark cloudy weather. At noon moderate with unfettled looking weather, the South point of Formofa bearing Eafl by South, diftant about five leagues, and the Northernmoft part in fight on the Weftern fide North Weft one quarter Weft, diftant four leagues. No obfervation. Latitude account 2 2° 06' North, longitude by account 2 290 37', longitude by departure 2390 2'. Sunday i'< This morning at daylight we were furrounded by a mul - titude of Chinefe fifhing-veffels or junks; at feven faw the land through the haze, bearing from North to Wefl North Weft, and at eight few Pedro Branca, bearing Weft by North, diftant four or five leagues. A moderate breeze at North, with very hazy weather, with which we fleered Weft by North, about four and a half knots per hour. In this run from the South point of Formofa, the fhip a-head of the reckoning nearly eighty miles of longitude. At half paft nine, feeing a Chinefe veffel fleering down towards us, we fhortened fail, and brought-to, in hopes of getting" a pilot out of her. Sent the whale-boat on board her, WM which ■ M NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ;2r Which returned foon after, accompanied by a boat from the c *^ a p Chinefe veflei, in Which came a pilot, with whom I agreed '— ' n ■ O I787. for his carrying the fhip to Macao for fifty dollars. At half November. paft- ten filled, and ftood to the Weft North Wefl, the wind Sunday l8> at North, athreeknot breeze. At two, hazy weather ; founded in twenty-four fathoms black muddy fandy bottom, Pedro Blanco bearing North Eaft by North, diftant about four miles, and the coaft in fight to the North North Weft, diftant eight or nine leagues. No obfervation; latitude by account 220 38' North; longitude by departure 2420 io' Wefl. Wm -■Mm Light winds from the Northward, with hazy weather, Monday 19. with which we fleered to the Weft North Weft, one knot fix fathoms per hour, founding from twenty-two to nineteen fathoms over a bottom of black muddy fand. At four in the evening the land in fight extended from North by Eaft to Weft by North, diftant from the neareft part five or fix leagues, and Pedro Blanco, North 88° Eaft, diftant about feven leagues. A ftrong tide or current fetting us to the Weftward, at five founded in feventeen fathoms, black ; muddy fand. At half paft five the land extended from North North Eaft to Weft North Weft, diftant from the neareft part about five leagues, a fmall ifland lying off the coaft, bearing North Weft, diflant about four leagues.. Moderate breeze from the North, with hazy weather,, with which we fleered to the Wefl North Weft, about two knots per hour, regular foundings, from nineteen to feventeen fathoms and a half, over a bottom of fine black muddy fand ; at nine anchored with the beft bower in feventeen fathoms and a half over a bottom of black muddy fand, the fmall ifland before mentioned bearing North Eaft half T t North, ill m MM Wm ill rrBaipv IH l'if il P'V^i' 1 ikitL'wf IHHil ftlllf gg£ h a XIV. November. Mond,a)Ç;.|i9.. iiuiii m A VOYAGE TO THE '• North, about four leagues, the coaft in fight from Nortli Eaft by North to Weft South Weft, diuftantifrom the neareft point four or five leagues. During the night moderate and variableJWfinds ; at fix in the Morning a moderate breeze at North Eaft by North, with; which we weighed, and came to fail; up topgallant yards, and fet the fails, and Jbeered to the South Weft by Weft about three knots per hour. At eight a kght breeze at North Eaft, with hazy weather, the Wefternmoft part of the Grand Lema bearing Soutji Well by Weft, diflant fix or feven leagues, the Eafternmoft part of the coaft or iflands North Eaft half North, about the fame diftance. And the fmall ifland before mentioned, North Eaft half Eaft, nine or ten leagues diftant, and our diftance froni the neareft fhore four or five leagues. During the forenoon a brifk breeze at North Eaft, with which we lleejied in Weft South Weft, at the rate of four or five knots per hour, for the paflage to the Northward of the Grand Lema, regular founding from fifteen and a half to nine- teeiaLand a half fathom over a bottom of muddy fand; and at eleven fqually, hauled in the fleering-fails. At noon a frefh breeze at North North Eafl, with fqualls, and with which we fleered Weft South Wefl, in the paffage to the Northward of the Grand Lema fix knots per hour, the Eafl part of the Grand Lema bearing South Eaft by South thirteen or fourteen miles, and the Northernmoft land in fight North Eaft by Eaft, our diftance from an ifland to the North North Weft about one mile. No obfervation. Tuefday 20. A fresh breeze at North North Eaft, with hazy weather, with which we fleered Weft North Weft four knots per hour, founded frequently as we run in,' and found depth of water from thirteen to fifteen fathoms over a 6 muddy NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 323 muddy bottom. At four in the evening a moderate breeze c ** a p. ât North, with which we flood to the Wefl North Wefl half j—^~* Weft, three knots per hour, almoft furrounded by iflands. November. At five anchored with the beft bower in eight fathoms and Tuefday 2°' a quarter water, over a bottom of mud ; the extremes of Lanton bearing South Eaft by Eaft a quarter Eaft, and South Eaft half Eaft ; iflands all round ; our diftance from the neareft fhore about two miles ; down topgallant yards. During the night light and variable winds, with cloudy weather. At fix in the morning, with a light breeze from the Northward, we weighed, founded frequently as we approached tÉe paffage leading to Macao, and found from eight to fix fathoms over a muddy bottom. About nine, by borrowing too near the Southern and Eaftern fhore, we fuddenly fhoaled our water to three fathoms and a half; but by keeping a little to the North, we deepened it again to fix fathoms, and then flood through the paflage : a frefh breeze at about North Eaft by North, with clear weather. At half paft ten, the tide of ebb having made, we came to an anchor with the beft bower in nine fathoms, muddy bottom ; the city of Macao bearing North Weft half North, diftant about five or fix leagues. At noon a moderate breeze, with fair weather ; latitude obferved 2 2° 1 o' North. •r ii m A moderate breeze at North, with hazy weather. At wcdneAi» one in the afternoon, the ebb-tide having flacked, we weighed and ftood towards Macao ; and at half paft four anchored with the beft bower in four fathoms and a half, muddy bottom, in Macao Road, the town bearing Weft by South, diftance two or three leagues; and Lanton Peak Eaft. At five fent the whale-boat on fhore to Macao.. At fix in the morning a frefh breeze at North by Weft, m t 2 «m Wltil. A VOYAGE TO THE with fine weather. Saw lying in the Typa two large fhips under French colours : one of which I found to be a thirty-two gun frigate, and the other an armed flore-fhip : their deftination, after leaving this, is generally fuppofed to be to the ifland of Formofa, where it is believed the French mean to get a footing. About feven in the morning the boat returned, having 'finifhed her bufinefs. The officer in her brought me a letter from captain Dixon, informing me of his fafe arrival in China ; and that in confequence of cargoes being procured for our two fhips, he had proceeded up to Wam- poa, where the Nootka was alfo arrived from Prince . William's Sound, and a fhip called the Imperial Eagle, commanded by a captain Berkley, from King George's Sound; Englifh property ; under Imperial colours. We heard of two veffels from India to the North Weft coaft being miffing; the one commanded by a captain Peters, and the other by a captain Tipping; moft likely cut off by the natives of that coaft. After receiving on board for the ufe of the fhip's company 257 pounds of frefh beef and fome vegetables, fent the boat on fhore again to get a pilot for the fhip to Wampoa. Licht winds at North by Wefl, with pleafant weather; in the afternoon moored fhip with the kedge anchor ; arrived on board nine feamen, late belonging to the fhip Imperial Eagle, and two late of the Nootka, to take a paffage to Wampoa. Moderate breezes from the North North Eaft, with fair pleafant weather. At ftven in the evening the pilot came 325 CHAP. XIV. 1787. ovember. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA came on board. At four in the morning weighed, and came to fail from Macao towards Wampoa ; and at noon was turning to windward between Macao and Lanton, n Before we left Macao, received on board eleven Lafcars atur ay H" and four feamen more as paffengers for Wampoa. A moderate breeze from the Eaftward, with fair pleafant weather. At one in the afternoon, the flood being fpent, came-to with the beft bower in ten fathoms water, loofe fandy bottom : the ifland of Lanton, the Peak, bearing Eaft by South, and the South weft point of Ma- coa Weft South Wefl. At half paft four weighed and came to fail; fet fleering- fails - The tide of flood being expended, at ten càme-to with the beft bower in nine fathoms and a half water, muddy bottom. At feven in the morning weighed and came to fail. At eight paffed the Bocco Tigris ; and at noon were plying to windward up Canton river. Light breeze from the Eaftward, with pleafant wea- Sunday^. ther. At two in the afternoon came-to with the beft bower in feven fathoms and a quarter water, muddy bottom. At the fame time came on board captain Dixon of the Queen Charlotte : the firft pagoda bearing -North Weft half Weft, four or five leagues. At feven in the afternoon weighed and came to fail. At eleven came-to with the beft bower in fix fathoms, two miles below Wampoa ; and at ten in the morning weighed again, and dropped up to Wampoa, and moored fhip with both anchors in five fathoms water. Whilst we lay at Wampoa, our principal bufinefs was to refit the fhip, and take a cargo of tea on board on account mm *r 526 A VOYAGE TO THE C xiv P* count °f H ^a^ *nc^a Company. An account of the '—§3|-» difpofal of our furs, and other material incidents, being -November, given in captain Dixon's voyage, I refer the reader to Sunday | |j| publication. During this interval, a dangerous mutiny happened on board the Belvidere, captain Greer, then lying at Wampoa. A thing of this nature being of the moll dangerous confequence to a commercial country, I have captain Greer's permiffion to publifh the examination of the mutineers before a court of inquiry; which, together with fome anecdotes of Tyaana, whom I met with at Canton, will be the fubject of the next chapter. Kb few NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA 327 CHAP. XV. An Account of a Court of Inquiry held at the Requeft; of Captain Greer, of the Belvidere, on his People who mutinied in his Abfence.—The Court's Determination thereon, andPunifhment inftiSled upon the Mutineers.—Account of meeting with Tyaana at China.—His Behaviour there.—Attention paid him.*—Return to his own .Country.—A fhort Defcription of his Perfon. '•Mm\ Wampoa, 9th December 1787. At a Court of Enquiry held on board the Earl Fitz- william in confequence of the following Letter from the Council of Supercargoes : To Captain fames Dundas, Commander of the Earl Fitz- william, andflenior Commander. SIR, F A VIN G taken into ferious confideration the circum- chap. fiances of the late riot and mutiny on board the Bel- ^_ jggjj videre, and the dreadful confequences that might be apprehended to the honourable Company's property, and the general intereft of the nation, in the trade of this place, were fuch an inftance of licentioufnefs palled over without due punifkment ; and being of opinion with the commanders whom we have confulted on the ocoafion, that the w- 1787. December. 11 ;28 A VOYAGE TO THE xv. i7'87. December. im iif ■ '1 c l^A p- the infliâing immediate and fevere corporal chaftifement on the principal offenders will more effectually contribute to the end propofed, of deterring others from following fo dangerous an example, than configning them over to the more dreadful punifhment which they have incurred from the laws of their country, on account of the diftance of time which muft neceffarily intervene, and the probable abfence of thofe on whom we wifh it to operate as an example : We requeft you will, at fucji time as fhall be moft convenient to you, affemble the commanders of the feveral fhips, to confiait and determine on fuch punifhment to be inflicted on the offenders as fhall appear to you proportioned to their feveral offences, and report to us your opinion of the fame. We are, |||jj Your moft obedient humble Servants, (Signed) Henry Browne. John Harrison, junior. G. Cumming, junior. Alex. Bruce. . , Canton, Cha* Edwd pIGOU> 8 th December 1787. TT T Henry Lane. On receiving the foregoing order, made the fignal for all commanders ; read the faid letter ; fent for the pri- foners and principal evidences on board the Earl Fitz- william ; and defired them to prepare themfelves for a court to be held here at eight o'clock next morning. 3 Wampoa, vim -NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Wampoa, iotk December 1787. V' ~ . PRESENT: :" j£.' .||/ ^ Captains, JAMES DUNDAS, Prefident. - Alexr Montgomery. Joseph Huddart. J. H. Dempster. James Monro. Henry Churchill. George Blachford. WM Hardcastle. David Tolme. George Millett. iSt Richard Pennell. William Storey. Philip Dundas. John Dennis. John Paiba. Charles Lindegren. The court being met, read the above order from the council of fupercargoes. Called the prifoners, and read the following charge : You John Berry, Abraham Lilly, Henry Ladfon, James Keiff, Anthony Garland, Robert Skinner, Thomas Langford, William Conner, Timothy Kelly, and John Haftings, not having the fear of God before your eyes, U u are 329 chap. XV. 1787- December. W Wfi m 33° C H A XV. 1787.. December «ii A V O TA G E T O THE p* are charged with the high crime of mutiny ; in firft medi- I tating aforethought a défign to iafult the officers of the fhip Belvidere, to which you belonged ; and carrying the fame into execution, by refufing to obey the commanding officer, by feizing him, beating him, and otherwife ill-ufing him, on Saturday night the. firft of December in this prefent year, and continuing your mutinous behaviour till Sunday noon, when you attempted to carry the command of the fhip Belvidere againft your officers ; which you in fome mea- fure effected, by turning the guns aft upon them, and threatening to murder them ;• by breaking open locks, and threatening to fire the powder and blow up the fhip. And further, even when affiftance Was called from the reft of the Company's fhips, for the purpofe of enabling the officers to refume their command, and procure peace to fuch of his Majefty's fubjecls a*s were willing to return to their duty on board the Belvidere, you wantonly armed yourfelves with fhot and other dangerous weapons, and attempted the life of fuch of his Majefty's fubjects as endeavoured to fupprefs your mutinous behaviour ; intreat- ing and perfuading the reft of the fhip's company to affift you, and threatening to murder them if they did not join you in this mutiny : but, thank God, the murders that might have been the confequence were happjfy prevented by the immediate affiftance from the commodore. We are therefore called upon by our honourable mailers to* make inquiry into this matter. Mr. David Dunlop, chief officer of the fhip Belvidere, called in and examined; Defired him to inform the court Q of %¥i im NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 331 of what he knew of the prifoners and the mutiny they c **,VA"p; are accufed of ; which he did as followeth : On Saturday night the firft of December, between ten and eleven o'clock, I was going to bed, and heard Ladfon, Keiff, and Conner ringing and making a noife on the gun-deck ; I defired them to leave off and not make fuch a noife to difturb the people on board the fhip ; to which Ladfon replied, that he thought it was hard he had not the liberty of ringing a fpng. I told him he might go on the foreçaftle and fing till he was tired, but he muft not ling on the gun-deck. They left off making a noife, and I went to bed ; in half an hour afterwards was furprifed to hear them make more noife than before. I turned out, and defired my fervant to bring me a light ; I went forward to them, and defired them to leave off ; when James Keiff laid hold of the candle that was in my hand. I feized him by the collar, and endeavoured to get the candle again, when he put the candle out. I was very ill ufed in the dark by Keiff and others : I received feveral blows : there were feveral billets of wood hove. ï then called for lights. The mates who were on board were foon with me. I held Keiff faft by the hair of the bead; being determined to put him in irons. The people turned out, and faid he fhould not be put in irons, The men who made the people turn out were Abraham Lilly, |ohn Berry, Henry Ladfon, James Keiff, Anthony Garland, Robert Skinner, Thomas Langford, and William Conner. James Keiff was handed upon the quarter-deck, and while tke carpenters were getting the irons, the prifoners behaved in a mutinous manner ; and William Conner threatened the fifth mate, Mr. Law, and faid he U u 2 -would .787.. December. Wm WWÊ vm IM W'i liiilli 332 A VOYAGE TO THE C ^xv' P' would DQ nis butcher. Berry, Lilly, and Ladfon, ap- « —* peared at their head near the quarter-deck, and declared December, they were on board of a merchantman, and no man fhould be put in irons or punifhed for any offences whatfoever. The man James Keiff was put in irons.. I defired the people to go to their hammocks ; but they would not quit the deck, where they remained till between two and three o'clock on Sunday morning, when they began to drop off; and I believe by three the deck was clear of them. I then ordered one of the officers, with two midfhipmen and a quartermafler, to keep watch ; and in cafe of any diflurb- ance to call me. I then went to bed. On Sunday morning, when the hands were called, the boatfwain informed me the people refufed to turn out; on which I went forward among them ; telling them the bad confequence that would attend refufing to do their duty, and behaving in fuch a mutinous manner, for which I was convinced they had no caufe. Upon which they went and wafhed the decks, and remained very quiet till one o'clock of the fame day, when they rufhed fuddenly up from the gun-deck, armed with gunners handfpikes, billets of wood, marlinfpikes, and double-headed fhot, and rufhed aft on the quarter-deck, with John Berry and Abraham Lilly at their head, threatening they would murder any man who fhould attempt to oppofe their releafing the prifoner. The fixth mate, Mr. James M'Culloch, was knocked down by John Berry with a marlinfpike which he held in his hand with a lanyard to it. I attempted to flop them, but was very near being thrown over-board; I faved myfelf by getting hold of the lanyard of the fore- maft main-fhroud. They took the prifoner on the main- deck, rw ai NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 333 1787. December, deck, knocked off his irons and threw them over-board. c ^VA p Berry then faid the day was-their own, and ordered to give three cheers, which they did. I ordered the gunner to hand the arms out of the gun-room, that I might fecure the ringleaders and take them into cuftody. The people then went down on the gun-deck, fecured the ports, knocked away all the ladders, and pointed the two bow- guns aft; they alfo .broke open the fore-fcuttle, and cleared away a quantity of cordage that was on the magazine feu ttie ; they clapped bolts and tke poker into the fire, to ferve as matches. Being afraid I would come down upon them, they raifed a report that they had broke open the magazine and loaded the two bow-guns. Seeing that all the officers were of opinion that it would be dangerous to attack them in that fituation, left they might accidentally or wilfully blow up the fhip, I went forward to the fore- hatchway on the upper-deck, and defired them to keep from the magazine. Berry, Lilly, Ladfon, Skinner, and Garland were the men that fpoke to me from the gun- deck ; they faid if any of the officers attempted to come down on the gun-deck they would certainly murder them, and fooner than they fhould be taken would blow the fhip up. In a few minutes after this, the fécond mate, Mr. Craig, came on board. Finding that there was no probability of getting them from the magazine while I remained on board, I left the fhip ; leaving orders to the fécond mate not to let any boats come along-fide, nor let our people out of the fhip, or fuffer them to have any liquor. I then went on board the Earl Fitzwilliam, and returned with Mr. Raitt, on board our fhip, and fent for the third mate, and ordered him, as foon as all hands were called, to take pofleflion of the lazaretta, with fix quarter- maflers. A VOYAGE TO THE mailers armed, and if any attempted the magazine, to run him through. I ordered the gunner, with his two mates, to defend the gun-room, and if any attempt was made, to fhoot thofe that did. All hands were then called, and appeared upon the upper-deck, wkh John Berry and Abraham Lilly at their head ; and Mr. Raitt and myfelf endeavoured by fair means for them to delayer up the ringleaders, which Berry and Lilly abfolutely refufed to do. Berry faid he would fight all the fhips at Wampoa fo long as the Belvidere's fides fluck together, and would die to a man before any of them fhould be punifhed. I' found that the boats were:advaneing ; and the people, armed with fhot, threatened to fink the boats if .they attempted to come along-fide. I immediately ordered the pfficerfe to arm, and clear the deck of them, and to kill any man who fhould attempt to throw fhot at the boats. The upper-deck was immediately cleared ; tkey jumped down the fore-hatchway and rufhed to the fore-fcuttle. There was immediately a cry on the gun-deck that they had got pofleflion of the magazine. While Mr. Raitt and myfelf attempted to clear the main-deck, John Berry and John Haftings were armed with fhot, and threatened to throw them at us ; I went down then on the main-deck by the main-fcuttle ; the fifcfl: man I met with was Keiff, whom I fe cured and handed upon the quarter-deck. I believe in the fpace of five minutes all the prisoners were fecured. Queflions to the Witnefs. , Abraham Lilly. Was I the head man prefent with Berry when Keiff was taken out of irons ? Anfwer. You was. Lilly. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA^ 335 Lilly. Was I one of the men thai, anfwered you from G ** à p T 1 1 > J XV- the gun-deck r Anfwer. You wsts'i- 1787. December. Lilly. Was I one o# the fix that threatened to cut the people down to turn out ? Anfiwer. To the beft of my knowledge you was. I Anthony Garland-. Was ï feen at the fore-hatchway ? Anfiwer, Yes.- Garland. Was I on the quarter-deck wftëh Keiff w-ai refcued ? Anfiwer. To the beft of my knowledge you was* Henry Ladfon. Was I at the fore-hatchway when the people fpoke to you from below ? Anfwer. To the beft of my knowledge you was. Garland. Was I one of the fix that threatened to cut the people down to turn out ? ' Anfiwer. To the beft of my knowledge you was. Robert Skinner. Was I one of the fix that threatened to cut the peeople down to turn out ? Anfwer. To the beft of my knowledge you was, Skinner. Was I one of thofe that fpoke to. you from the fore-hatch ? Anfwer. To the beft of my knowledge you was. .m is Tw M m 336 A VOYAGE. TO THE c^h^a p. John Berry. Was I one of the fix that threatened to xv- cut the people down to turn out ? December. Anfwer. To the beft of my knowledge you was. Court. Did you fee or know who thofe men were that took off the irons and threw them over-board ? Anfwer. I cannot fay. Court. At what hour was it when thofe people fpoke to you from the fore-hatchway ? Anfwer. About a quarter paft one o'clock, when the ports were lafhed in. Court. Was any officer prefent at the above converfation at the fore-hatchway ? Anfwer. Yes, the third and fixth mates. Court. This witnefs further fays, there are two of the prifoners, Haftings and Conner, always behaved well till this affair, and he believes they were led into it by the reft. Court requefted to know of the prifoners if they wanted to afk Mr. Dunlop any more queftions ? Prifoners. No. Mr. Milliken Craig, fécond officer of the fhip Belvidere, called in and defired to inform the court of what he knew refpecting the prifoners and the mutiny. It was near one o'clock on Sunday when I met captain Clarkfon between the Earl Fitzwilliam" and 12 Hilfborough. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 337 Hilfborough. He inquired if captain Greer was in the c H A p- boat; he faid not; when he immediately told him there s—~* was a mutiny in the Belvidere. December. When I came on board at one o'clock I found the fhip in a mutinous ftate. Tke people would not permit boats to come along-fide; they threatened to fink them with fhot if they did. I went into the cuddy with Mr. Dunlop and the.reft of the officers of the fhip, to dinner. When I came out again Mr. Dunlop left the fhip. The orders that Mr. Dunlop left were, I was to endeavour to keep the fhip in quietnefs if poffible, and to prevent liquor coming into the fhip; I was to do nothing elfe till I received further orders ; the men at that time in a ftate of madnefs with liquor. When Mr. Dunlop was out of the fhip, all the mutineers came aft, among whom were the prifoners now before me; they faid they intended to be obedient to my command, till fuch time as they faw captain Greer ; I told them I immediately expected they would. I defired" they would point the guns forward they had pointed aft; to give up the pofleflion of the magazine, to haul up the ports, and in every other cafe to put the fhip in order; which they did. They afked, if Keiff was a free man? I told them I fhould wait for orders how to act with him. I then fent for the gunner, and defired him to fee the magazine and the guns fecured; he reported it was done; the officers at the fame time were allowed to walk the deck or any part of the fhip they pleafed. The fhip was perfectly quiet till the note came from the commodore, and alfo afterwards till Mr. Raitt and Mr. Dunlop came on board : they then objected to their coming on board, and came aft in a mutinous manner; upon which I prevented their X x obftruct- w'1*l Wkm mm ÉlIKl HBilf™ 33* A VOYAGE TO THE . C xvA P" °t>ftructing the paffage of the above gentlemen. Mr. Dun- c——> lop defired all hands to be called: Mr. Raitt and Mr. 1 "78*7 -L December. Dunlop delivered thefe orders fent by the commodore, which was to deliver up the ringleaders; they all objected to it, and fwore they would die to a man before they would permit it. Mr. Raitt then pointed out the folly of Handing out againft fo many fhips here ; they faid they did not care, they would give it red-hot on both fides, particularly Berry. The attack was then made on the mutineers by the officers on board and in the boats; they were drove below and taken prifoners.. Queftions from the Court. What boats were thofe that were prevented from coming along-fide ? Anfwer. Mr. Temple was in the boat; do not know what fhip the boat belonged to. Court. When the people came aft to prevent Mr. Dunlop coming into the fhip, who were the men that came forward ? A?tfwer. Berry and Lilly. Court. What did Mr. Dunlop fay to you when you went in to dinner? Did he mention the circumftance of the man bsing taken out of irons, and what fleps he had taken previous to your coming on board? Anfwer. Yes. Court. When the fhip's company refufed to give up the ringleaders, were there any of the men that you particularly obferved to take the lead ? Anfwer* NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 339 Anfwer. Yes; Garland, Ladfon, Berry, and Lilly. c HA p* Court. When you was going along-fide, did they en- December, deavour to prevent you ? Anfwer. No. Court. When the attack was made on the mutineers, where was you, and did you obferve any man take a more active part than another in the mutiny? Anfwer. I was on the quarter-deck loading my piftols; tke moft active men were Berry and Lilly. Court. Was you prefent at tke fecuring the whole, or any part of the prifoners ? Anfwer. I recollect fending Skinner up the fore.hatchway. Court. What was his behaviour at the time? did he refill much? Anfwer. No, he did not. Captain Greer. When Mr. Dunlop quitted the fhip, did they demand any terms of you? if fo, what were they? Anfwer. None. Court. Did you give orders to prevent boats coming along-fide-after Mr. Dunlop left the fhip? Anfwer. I did, not to let boats come along-fide without my knowledge. «P%i (■JPunill m w X x a The mm 34° A VOYAGE TO THE WE tnm'i H,i.W Mil c h a p. yhe prifoners were then afked by the court if they had Ii—|—' any queftions to put to the witnefs ? They all anfwered, December. No, they had none. Mr. Adam Cumine, third officer of the fhip Belvidere,. called in, and defired to inform the court of what he knew of the prifoners and mutiny. At about half paft ten o'clock of Saturday night, the i ft of December, I heard the chief mate get up and call for a light, as the people were then finging and making a riotous noife ; I fufpected he meant to go forward and quiet them. The fifth mate followed them immediately, and myfelf very foon after. I had at that time no idea the chief mate would meet wkh any ill treatment; but by the time I got forward, was much furprifed to find that James Keiff had feized the light out of his hand ; and the chief mate, who had then got Keiff down upon a cheft, was attempting to retrieve the light, the fifth mate giving him every affiftance in his power. We dragged Keiff aft into the fleerage ; I then perceived the people meant to make a general mutiny, there being a cry from all quarters, Turn out, turn out; at the fame time a ftool and fome other things were hove aft amongft us in the fleerage. The petty officers then interpofing in our favour, we got Keiff upon the quarter-deck, and put him in irons. The people were by this time .all upon the quarter-deck, and were infilling upon having the prifoner delivered up to them ; but being oppofed by the officers at the break of the quarterdeck, they did not attempt to force their way aft. Ladfon, Conner, and Kelly, being the principal ringleaders, gave v wm NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA 341 H A XV. gave the chief mate a great deal of abufe, and even threat- i ened to take the fifth mate's life. The chief mate begged they would go to their beds, affured them if they of- December. fered to relieve the prifoner, he would inftantly arm and proceed againft them, reprefented how dreadful the confe- quences might be, and he would at any time get affiftance from the other fhips, with which he could with the greatefl eafe fecure every one of them. They ftill continued their abufe, and even refolved not to quit the deck without the prifoner ; however, about two o'clock, many of them began to flip off the deck, and by three there were very few remaining, and every thing was once more quiet, and remained fo till the next day at noon. Some time after we had piped to dinner, the chief mate fent for me, told me he believed the people intended forcibly to relieve the prifoner after dinner, and defired I would order all the quar- ter-maflers to be ready. Before we could get armed, they all rufhed aft in a body; Berry at the head, who threatened to knock the firft man down, who came in their way, with a marlin fpike which he carried in his hand. We the officers and petty officers threw ourfelves in before them, and Berry flruck the fixth mate on the fhoulder with the marlin. fpike, which brought him to the deck. We found it impoffible to detain the prifoner, whom the mutineers carried forward, knocked off his irons, and threw them overboard : then Berry called out, We have got the day, let us give three cheers; which they accordingly did. They then went down below, pointed the two bow guns aft, lowered down the ports, and unfhipped all the ladders. Berry and Lilly came aft into the fleerage, and gave the officers every abufe they could think of; they were even heard to fay from below they would break open the magazine. The boat- 8 fwain mil u\H nJL, jl !«JT 342 i vs H A XV. 1787. December. A VOYAGE TO THE fwain then went down below, to fee if they intended to take fuch a dangerous flep ; they told him they were all ready for doing: it, and would certainly do it the moment they were attacked by the officers, which prevented the chief mate from attacking, as he intended to have done. Having ordered every body to arms, the chief mate ordered me to take the yaul and go on board the Fitzwilliam, and requeft captain Dundas to give his advice. In the dangerous fituation the fhip was, captain Dundas defired I would return, and if the chief mate wanted afliftance from the other fhips, to let him know immediately and he would fend a boat from every fhip in the fleet. By the time I returned the fécond mate came along-fide, and the people feemed inclinable to return to their duty; but in a moft daring manner came aft, and infilled upon terms which were not granted them, as they had pofleflion of the gun- deck and magazine, and we. had every reafon to think from their behaviour when the fécond mate came alone- fide, that they would be perfectly quiet when he was left commanding officer. The chief mate quitted the fhip in a fampan, it being his opinion, the fécond mate's, and my own, that the ringleaders could be fecured when the people were in a ftate of fobriety. It happened as we expected : the moment the chief mate quitted the fhip, they returned to their duty, got the guns in their places when ordered by the fécond mate, and every thing appeared perfectly quiet. About three o'clock the Locko's boat came along- fide, to know if we wanted any affiftance. The people let the officer come on board without any difturbance. He foon after left the fhip. About four o'clock the chief mate, and Mr. Raitt the chief mate of the Fitzwilliam, came on board. The | mutineers let the officers come on 7 board i NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA 343 board after fome altercation, but ordered tke boat to fkove c J* A p* off, threatening to flave her if they refufed. The chief I—-J—.* mate then called me, and ordered me to take fix quarter- December, mafters down to the lazaretta armed, and defend the magazine, and to run any man through-that fliould attempt to enter it. I can give no account of what paffed after this upon the upper-deck and gun-deck, as I did not come up till moft of the mutineers were feized. (Signed) AM Cumine, December 4, 1787. 3d Mate, Belvidere. Having read this to the court, and affirming it as true, he then proceeds as follows: After I had been fome time in the lazaretta, they lifted the fcuttle leading to the magazine, and were going to jump down ; being oppofed, they afterwards laid the fcuttle over again. A little time after they lifted it off again, and then they faid they were determined to jump down. I affured them if they did, I would run the firft man through. Notwithftanding which, a man (Paterfon) jumped down, and I wounded him. After him numbers immediately jumped down, firft throwing billets of wood and fhot, and drove me from the lazaretta. I cannot recollect if any of the prifoners were. there. j W4 Court. Do you know who took Keiff ofl' the quarterdeck, and who knocked his irons off? Anfwer. Berry and Patterfon. Court. What were the terms that the people demanded of the chief mate, and what officers were prefent when they did fo? - Anfwer. Ii! I Wwm 1811m mmm (i.j iran 344 A VOYAGE TO THE c x/ P* Anfwer. They demanded tkat tkey fhould have an al- v- —j lowance of grog, and likewife tkat Keiff fhould be at December, liberty. The officers prefent were the .chief, the fécond, fifth and fixth mates, and the witnefs. Court. Who were the men that afked thofe terms? Anfwer. Lilly and Garland. Captain Greer. Did they not demand a midfhipman (Mr. Clayton) to be turned before the marl ? Anfwer. I heard it called out, but do not know from whom. Court. Did it appear to you during the mutiny that the people were in a ftate of intoxication ? Anfwer* Very few of them I think. Court» Do you recollect any of that few that were in that ftate? Anfwer. Kelly; none elfe among the prifoners but him. îKWy Court. Do you know the man that threatened the fifth mate's life? Anfwer. Yes; Conner. Queftions afked by the Prifoners. John Berry. Whether he few me knock the irons off Keiff? Anfwer. The witnefs faw him carry Keiff forward, and very active about him ; but cannot fay who immediately knocked them off. Mr. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 34\J Mr. Law, fifth officer of the Belvidere, called in, and chap. defired to inform the court of what he knew of the pri- '——--» foners and the mutiny.. Decanter. At half paft ten o'clock on Saturday night, the ift December, I heard Mr. Dunlop call for a.light. I was then in the great cabin;" I followed him, and few Mr. Dunlop collar Keiff, and Keiff take the light from Mr. Dunlop, A fcufHe then enfued. Keiff tore Mr. Dunlop's fhirt. I affifled Mr. Dunlop in getting him aft; during the time a billet of wood was thrown from forward, which ftruck me on the leg. Conner came aft; I did not know his intentions, and pufhed him forward. Keiff was put in irons with difficulty. I was laft in coming upon deck, and turning round, I faw the people affembling a-breaft the main-maft ; Ladfon, Berry, and Conner, laying down terms to Mr. Dunlop, and infilling on having Keiff out of irons. Berry faid, Don't let us fland about it, let us take him out. A long altercation enfued till one in the morning ; they then began to difperfe. An officer was then ordered to keep tke watck through the night ; during which in my watch they were quiet. At twelve o'clock the next day, Sunday the 2d December, the people came up armed, Berry in particular. With a marline-fpike tkey rufhed aft, with Berry at their head, and took tke prifoner forcibly out of irons. They then began to make a great difturb- ance, threatening Mr. Dunlop, and calling him a number of abufive names, faying, that the fhip was now their own, and that no man fhould be punifhed without they thought he deferved it. They barricaded the fhip, and fwore that no boats fhould come along-fide : all the prifoners and moft of the people making ufe of thefe or like expreflions. Y y They 34^ A VOYAGE TO THE 'II MUM C xvA P* They handed up fhot upon deck, and got every thing ne- <——-—I cefîâry to keep the boats off in cafe they were boarded. December. Berry and Lilly faid they would die upon deck rather than give the fhip up, Court. Did Berry ftrike the fixth mate to the deck, and at what time? S Anfwer. I cannot fay. Court. Did you fee any body attempt to pufli Mr. Dunlop overboard, or did you fee him nearly in that fituation ? Anfwer. I faw him nearly in that fituation, but faw no man do it. Court. In what ftate was the fhip's company as to fo- briety during the Saturday night and Sunday? Anfwer. Kelly was the only drunken man I few amongft them. William Conner. Did you hear me threaten your H 1 ike? I ; WKm: Anfwer. Only my ears. Court to the prifoners. Have you any more queftions to put to the witnefs ? Prifoners Anfwer. No. Mr. James M'Culloch, fixth officer of the fhip Belvidere, called in, and defired to inform the court of what he knew of the prifoners and the mutiny. Upon NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 347 Upon the iff of December at night, I as ufual put the c Hx^ | lights out at nine o'clock, and immediately went to bed ; j—|j|| but before I was long afleep, I was awakened by a-noife I December. heard upon deck. I then got up, and without putting any other clothes on but my breeches, went upon deck, and there faw all the foremaft-men together in the waifl: but the man who was then fpokefman was William Conner, who then faid they were all determined to have James Keiff out of irons that night; and Henry Ladfon, who declared there fhould nothing prevent them having him to fleep on the gun-deck that night, and in his own hammock ; and John Berry faid, What fignifies talking, let us one and all go and take him, and fee who dares hinder us» Robert Skinner and Samuel Walker likewife were refolved upon relieving the prifoner; as for the refl of the people, they ftood behind their backs, declaring and fignifying their approbation of every thing the ringleaders propofed ; however, feeing the officers and petty officers were determined to guard the prifoner all night fooner than fuffer him to be relieved by them, they wifely went to bed. However, Mr. Dunlop thought proper to make one officer keep watch with two midfhipmen and two quarter-mafters ; the reft turned in, but-were ready upon a moment's warning to be upon deck; but we had the fatisfaction to remain quiet for the reft of the night. Next morning the people got up and walked the main-deck without making any noife; and for my own part I thought the men had reflected deliberately on their behaviour: but at twelve o'clock, when the boatfwain and his mates had piped to dinner, they all of courfe went below, and the fhip's lleward as ufual ferved1 out their grog. But I do not think they had time to eat their dinner, when they came upon Y y 2 deck [Nil !■ r'TPi iii I!pH m\ 348 C H A XV. 1787. "'W wm III i ill I K2f!fli s [|jjàtjwj|] InjjÉiy Jlffi À VOYAGE TO THE deck with their champion ringleaders at their head, armed with fids, marlinfpikes, pump-bolts, handfpikes, crows, December, and belaying pins, with John Berry firft encouraging them, by faying, We will murder the firft bugger that offers to oppofe us. Mr. Dunlop juft then came out of the cuddy ,= and I myfelf not having time to get either piflols or anw defenfive arms, run in between the mutineers and the prifoners. What with the force of them all running upors me, and the blow I received from John Berry's marlkv- fpike, I fell down amongft their feet, and was huftled forward to the waift before I could recover myfelf; but upon my getting up, I faw the mutineers breaking the lock. They then, by order of John Berry, gave three cheers,, he faying they had got the day. They then went below, unfhipped the ladders, let down all the portsr pointed the two foremoft guns aft, and handed up the fhot, and declared, if any violent meafures were propofed, they would break open the magazine. At that time Mr. Craig came on board, when Mr. Dunlop and. the reft of the officers agreed to let them alone until fuch time as we had it in our power to get between them and the magazine, as they feemed to be then quiet. Mr. Dunlop then, called a pafiage-boat, and took leave of us, as I imagined,- to go to Canton. At this time the people were quiet, and faid they would go to their duty. At half paft three o'clock the commodore's boat came along-fide; but before this, the ringleaders came aft, in a daring manner infilling upon terms; and John Berry, Abraham Lilly, and Am-- thony Garland, infifted upon having Mr. Clayton, a mid- fhipman, turned before the maft, that they might have him to murder; but upon Abraham Lilly's faying fo, John Berry faid, I will not take his life; I will break one leg 10 and wm NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 349 and one arm ; and as for Mr. Law, I will cut one of his c UVA p- ears off. When the commodore's boat came, Mr. Raitt, XV." his chief officer, read a letter, the contents infilling upon December,. the ringleaders being given up; upon which the mutineers put themfelves in a pofture of defence, and fwore no boats fhould come along-fide. They immediately fome of them went ta break open the magazine, and began throwing at the boats along-fide and upon the quarterdeck ; but tke officers and petty officers being armed,, we made a fally from the quarter-deck, and cut feveral down witk cutlafles, wken they went to the magazine, and founcf- a warm reception from the third mate, who was then- guarding it with five quarter-mailers. The pinnaces ail sot along-fide, we then took all that were- on the main- deck prifoners, went down upon the gun-deck, hauled up- tke ports; but before we had that done, feveral were hurt by fkot hove by the mutineers. However, by five o'clock, we had all our foremaft-men prifoners in the cuddy, when John Berry, Abraham Lilly, Anthony Garland, William Conner, Robert Skinner, John Haftings, Thomas Lang- ford, Henry Ladfon, Timothy Kelly, and James Keiff,. were fent prifoners on board the commodore. Samuel Walker, Thomas Pater fon, Oliver Butler, and James* Brown, were the only men not concerned. Queftions afked Mr. M'Gulloch, Court. What terms were demanded by tke prifoners? Anfwer. Anthony Garland infilled upon grog that day* snd liberty; he likewife demanded Mr. Clayton midfhip- man to be turned before the mail, became he had' on that day nearly got him a flogging. Abraham' Lilly threatened - tG> I 111 PI m Pli n WM Yi : !HWMI> ■il 'piPili *w giyn il sill 11 350 A VOYAGE TO THE C IxvA P° to mur<^er the faid mddfhipman ; John Berry faid he would break one leg and one arm. 1787. December. Court. Do you know who knocked the irons off Keiff? Anfwer. I do not know who knocked the lock off the irons, but I few Berry and Paterfon throw them overboard. Court. Did you hear any of the people threaten to blow the fhip up ? Anfwer. Yes, but cannot fay who. Court. Were there any locks broke open to enter the lazaretta? Anfwer. The lock of the fore-fcuttle, but cannot tell who did it. 'Abraham Lilly. Queftion. Did you hear me threaten Mr. Clayton's life? Anfwer. Yes, I did; you and Garland. Court to the Prifoners. Court. Have you any more queflions to put to the Witnefs ? Prifoners Anfwer. No. Mr. Chriftopher Spencer, gunner of the fhip Belvidere, called in, and defired to inform the court of what he knew of the prifoners and the mutiny. Queflions 3St CHAP. XV. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA Queflions by the Court. Court. Where was you when you heard of the chief ^T^Ç mate's light being taken from him ? December Anfwer. In the gun-room. Court. Was you upon deck when Keiff was put in irons? ft .. Anfwer. Yes. Court. Was there any refiftanCe made, or any abufive language made ufe of, and from whom ? Anfwer. Ladfon and Conner faid that the man fhould not be put in irons without their going with him. . Court. Was you fent by Mr. Dunlop to fecure the gun-room, and did any body attempt to break in, and wko? Anfwer. None. Court. Were the fhip's company drunk or fober, or what fort of flate were they in on Saturday and Sunday? Anfwer. A little drunken on Saturday ; all fober on Sunday except Kelly. Court. Did you receive any orders' from Mr. Craig when Mr. Dunlop left the fhip, and what were they ? Anfwer. To go down and fee the magazine fecured. Court. What fituation were the guns in ? Anfwer. They were in their places. Court. lis BfflMl 352 A VOYAGE TO THE C *xvA P' Court. When Mr. Dunlop left the fhip were the ports y—-—* down ? 1787. December. Jlnfwer. No, they were up. ifcii? illl Court to the Prifoners. Court. Have you any queflions to put to the witnefs ? Prifoners. None. Mr. William Froft, Boatfwain of the Belvidere, called ia and ordered to inform the court of what he knew of the prifoners and the mutiny. Queflions by the Court. Queftion. Did you fee the guns pointed aft on Sunday ? Anfwer. Yes the two foremoft. ^ueflion. Were the ports ever lafhed in ? Anfwer. I do not know ; but they were lowered down and hauled up feveral times, ^ueflion. What ftate were the fhip's company in on Saturday and Sunday ? Anfwer. On Saturday only Keiff and Payne drunk ; on Sunday between twelve and two only Kelly that appeared to be drunk to me. ^ueflion. Did you hear any of the people fay they would blow the fhip up ? Anfwer. I heard it, but cannot tell who. ^ueflion. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. jjfc Queftion. Who appeared to you to be the leading men, c ** A p and who was moft active in the mutiny on Saturday and \—*—* bunday ? December. Anfwer. On Saturday night Conner and Ladfon, on Sunday Berry and Lilly. Court to the Prifoners. Have you any queflions to put to the witnefs ? Prifoners Anfwer. No. Court to Mr. Dunlop, chief mate. Queftion. Did the fhip's company any time on Sunday afk any terms of you ? Anfwer. They afked if I had releafed Keiff. I an- fwered, No ; that they had done it themfelves. They alfo demanded Mr. Clayton, midlfiipman, to be turned before the maft. Mr. Charles Raitt, chief officer of the Earl Fitzwilliam, called in, and defired to inform the Court of what he knew of the prifoners and the mutiny. Queflions by the Court to Mr. Raitt. Queftion. What ftate did you fifid the Belvidere in when you went on board with Mr. Dunlop ? Anfwer. In a very mutinous ftate ; and the firft thing that made me believe they were, was their ordering my boat to put off inftantly from along-fide. Queftion. Did you fee them armed to keep any boats off I Anfwer, Yes ; but not at firft. Z % Queftion. ■i»!l M[M\ KM m IIP n I ■VA »1 ■ Ulkiî '354 CHAP. ■XV. "^VOYAGE TO THE Queftion. Did they refufe to give thé» ringleaders - up ' when you told them you came with the commodore's 1787. a December, orders t !'& Anfwer-. They refufed to a man, and faid they would fooner die. Berry in particular fâid he Would - fight the fhip as long as her fides ftuck together ; took off his cap, and gave three cheers. : When I was telling him the confequence, Ladfon replied, he could only be hanged ; as to flogging, he did not mind it. Queftion. Did the people feem drunk-or fober ? Anfwer. Perfectly fober and very deliberate. I did not fee one drunk. Queftion by Henry Ladfoh to the Witnefs. Queftion. I wifh to know where I was when I made that anfwer ? Anfwer. On the upper-deck on tke chock ftarboard fide of the deck. When they found the boats coming, they armed themfelves with round fhot and double-headed fhot ; called, Stand by and divide yourfelves, the boats are coming on both fides. .The Prifoners upon their defence. John Berry, Have you any perfon to call on your defence, or to fpeak to your character ? Anfwer. No. Abraham Lilly, Have you any perfon to call on your Hefence, or to fpeak to your ckaraêter ? Anfwer. N01 11 ffenry NORfH WEST COAST OF AMERICA 355 Hefify liaiftn, Have you any perfon to call on your c H a p. defence, or to fpeak to your character ? »_~^ Anfim&r. I was not on the fore-hatchway when Mr. December. Dunlop fpoke from the upper-deck. James Keiff, Have you any perfon to call on your defence, or to fpeak to your character ? Anfwer. I deny taking the candle from Mr. Dunlop but to hold it. Aftthony Garland, Have you any perfon to call on your defence, or to fpeak to your character ? Anfwer. I am not guilty of going on the fore-hatches, nor with the fhot, nor with taking the man out of irons. Mr. Donaldfon, Mr. Young, and Mr. Perry, will fpeak to my character. Thofe gentlemen not prefent. Robert Skinner, \ Have you any perfon to call on your defence, or to fpeak to your character ? Anfwer. No. Thomas Langford, Have you any perfon to call on your defence, or to fpeak to your character ? Anfwer. Can get a character in the fleet. William Conner, Have you any perfon to call in your defence, or to fpçak to your character ? Anfwer. Says he was in liquor, as an excufe for his conduct:. , Timothy Kelly, Have you any perfon to call in your defence, or to fpeak to ^/our character ? Anfwer. Pleads drunkennefs. . Zz z John Hi ll till m 1SËF nW. LEI util 35^ CHAP. XV. .787. December. .' c! lytâ Iff A VOYAGE TO THE John Haftings, Have you any perfon to call in your defence, or to fpeak to your character ? Anfwer. They were running forward with cutlafîês ; I took up a fhot to defend myfelf. Captain Greer gives him a good character till this mutiny. Adjourned to Saturday the 15th inftant at eleven o'clock in the forenoon. ri/it. , m» Saturday, 15th December 1787. Tke Court being refumed, Sin . P R E S E N T: .'■ ."•.;■; / '~ * Captains, JAMES DUNDAS, Prefident. Alexr Montgomery. Joseph Huddart. J. H. Dempster. James Monro. Henry Churchill. George Blachford. WM Hardcastle. David Tolme. George Millett. Richard Pennell. William Storey. , Philip Dundas. John Dennis. John Paiba. Charles Lindegren. Th E NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 357 The Court having gone through the evidence, and c \A p* afked the prifoners what they had to fay for themfelves *y '—^—» it has not appeared that there has been the leaft caufe for December. murmur amongft the fhip's company, either for ill ufage from any one officer or petty officer in the fhip | that this; daring mutiny has arofe from a fpirit that prevailed, that they were on board of a merchantman, where, according to thek own expreflions, they would not meet with, due punifhment ; that it alfa appears, that on Sunday, the fécond day of the mutiny, the prifoners were all fober and deliberate but one man, Kelly, and who pleaded drunkennefs ; the otheis » never attempting any defence of that fort, or faying arty thing in their own vindication. We therefore are of opinion that this daring mutiny, had it not been immediately fuppreffed by about eighteen boats manned and armed from the Company's fhips, the confequence might have been dreadful, not only to that fhip; but this fpirit fpreading to the fleet in general, where there are above three thoufand of his Majefty's fubjecfs, the greater number of which might have, by joining the mutineers, committed depredations againft the inhabitants,;. and put a flop to the Company's trade, With the lofs of many lives: We therefore are of opinion, that fevere and immediate corporal punifhment be inflicted upon the ringleaders ; and that Berry and Lilly at different fhips of the fleet receive, Berry one hundred, and Lilly:feventy la-fh.es.;, that the reft be punifhed on board the Belvidere,. and that Ladfon and Keiff receive fixty lafkes ;, Garland,, Skinner,, and Conner forty-eight lafkes ; Haftings and: Langford twenty-four-lafhes ; that Kelly, as leaft culpable, receive I . twelve iHiBl HI Ui;l fill M'M3. 35$ v A VOYAGE TO' THE. C xvt P' twe*ve laflxes. The latterrrecommended to' mercy by the Court. ^ l^^gned) 1787. December. J. Dundas. A. Montgomery. J. HUDDART. J. H. Dempster. J a me Si Monro. HY Churchill. George Blachford» WM Hardcastle. DD Tolme. Geo. Millett. Rich" Pennell. WM Storey. Ph. Dundas. John Dennis, John Paiba. Charles Lindegren, ■^Jfëfefo Berry and Abraham Lilly, after having the laft M Ûièiî puniflàment along-fide of the Belvidere, were liberated, and taken on board, when they went down on the guiï^deck, and were fpiriting up the feamen to mutiny aga'm^^#%ich-hand ^being infôlenl to captain Greer'?oWr^ie^(|ÈiâFle/-deck, he ordelexi them on fhore at DonesMIfiand, r>with tkeir clothes, &c. which is the ifland the EnglifiVare permitted to walk on, and within a cable's length of the filing 'N IS! fin EKF '1 TYAA^À NOÉTH'îWEST C&AST OF» AMERICA. ï-êk <$5$ pN^^^ëMSeré's arrivai*$n England, 'they %rôught anc ^VA ?* action -agaîrnTthe^reaptain-&^he Court of 'Cômînôn Pleas, -*—>~»■ wiiiêh Was-t:Hê#on t^ksth De-cètîîkèf'M^SSi before Lord December I^ng^'borougk^nd a^fpëcî^jûry^ %kën a ^€ict was given in favour - ofj càptài^Gieer. i BÉRR^:^ad keenn^i; ôla; bf^der :ff^théfeavy $$| on board; the:1 Gfanby JEaft ■ Indiaman^aptaffi Johnfon *■ ml BOON after my arrival at Canton I took an opportunity' f^ôf paying a vifit to MI?,' Cox, *an Englifh gentleman refî-^ dent there ; and I was much .furprifed to fee my oldfriend Tyaana, whom the reader may recollect; I met with at Atouipôn my fécond vifit' tô the Sandwich Tflands.. Tyaana imme4iately recollected me;:;and fo -fenfibly wa's he affecfed with tfe interview, that lie clafped Im^rins about- me. in othéjlîïiQftiaffecting manner, reclined h^s heaid on; my fhouldër, tears^t^an unheeded down his cheeks, and;. it.was fome time before: he became calm artd compofed enough to utter the name of his old acquaintance Popote;, butcWrhén thefirft ■tjrànfports OKrjoy, whickfd unexpected, a meeting excited, had a little fubfidèd, he feemed hap]|p in making every enquiry.that could pleafe or afford fatif- facliôn jrefpecting his friends at the Sandwich Iflands -0é^: on my enquiring how heJbàmetôGkina, I found that Captain; Mears had: touched iatl Atoui in/ens paffage from the coaft of America..to Chind,:r^adiTyaana expreffmg a wifhita Company the captain, «a Prdàae,; he kad taken kim onboard! ii .tiHui m 3«o A VOYAGE TO THE II C Hxv. *' board and brought him to Macao ; at which place he left | i him in the care of Mr. Rofs, his chief mate, of whoi December. Tyaana was remarkably fond. They remained fome time at Macao ; and Tyaana was generally indulged in walking about wherever his inclination led him ; and on thefe oc- cafions he conftantly wore a beautiful feathered cap and cloak, and carried a fpear in his hand to denote himfelf to " be a përfon of grandeur and diftinâion ; nor did he like to wear any other drefs, except the maro, which is always worn by the Sandwich iflanders about the waift : fuch an appearance however being fcarcely modeft in a civilized country, Mr. Rofs got a light fattin waiftcoat and a pair of trowfers made for him, and which he was prevailed with to wear, but not without great feeming reluctance at firft, but with which he was better pleafed after they became familiar and habitual to him. Tyaana, though no profeffed papift, would frequently go to the places of divine worfhip at Macao, and alwavs obferved the manner, motions, and attitudes of the congregation, Handing or kneeling, and as they did, fo did he, appearing very ftudious to imitate them, by an exact: conformity to all their aérions, geftures, and behaviour. <His noble and generous fpirit vifibly difcovered itfelf on various occafions. One time he went up to an orange ftall, and picking out half a dozen oranges, gave the woman who fold them a couple of nails for them, which in his eftimation was a very ample, and indeed a fuperabundant compenfation for her oranges ; nails in his country being things of very great and precious value ; obferving at the fame time that he had paid her for the oranges and made her NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 361 Wp? a prefent befide ; but the good woman was by no means c *|VA p* latisfied with fuch payment, and was about to raife a dif- '— ' turbance, by a loud, rude, offenfive clamour of her not December.- being paid; when fome gentlemen luckily happening to be with Tyaana at the time, they readily pacified her complaint, by paying her to her fatisfactiom When the Queen Charlotte arrived in Macao Roads,.-* Mr. Rofs and Tyaana often went with captain Dixon to- Wampoa. During this fhort paffage Tyaana often expreffed his diflike of the Chinefe, particularly that cuftom. of Abutting up and excluding the women from the fight of all ftrangers. And he feemed likewife to have contracted a prejudice, as well againft the form, fhape, and manner of their perfon s, as- againft their practices and cuftom s ; and carried it even to hatred and antipathy, infomuch that he was once going to throw the pilot over-board for feme trivial matter of offence.. When he arrived at Canton he was particularly noticed by the gentlemen of the Englifk factory, from whom he received invitations, and every mark of civility which could teftify their refpect and regard, to his rank and dignity ; nor was he lefs careffed and admired by all claffes of people at Canton. A captain Tafker, of the Milford, from Bombay, gave a fumptuous entertainment to a number of Englifh gentlemen, and of courfe Tyaana was among the reft. After dinner, being upon deck, a number of poor Tartars, in fmall fampans, were about the fhip afking alms, as is euftomary there, on fuch occafions of entertainment and 3 A feftivity* Mm Témà I!! ftifl 362 CHAP. XV. 17~ December. M A VOYAGE TO THE feftivity. Tyaana inunediately enquired what they wanted, and being told that they were beggars who came to fup- plicate the refufe of the table, he expreffed great concern, faying that he was very forry to fee any perfons in want of food, and that it was quite a new fcene to him ; for that they had no people of that defcription at Atoui ; he feemed to be under great impatience to procure them relief, and became a very importunate foliciter on their behalf. The captain's generous difpofition readily co-operated with his importunities, and he ordered all the broken viduals, being a large quantity, to be brought upon deck, and Tyaana had the diftribution of it among the poor Tartars, which he did, obferving the moft equal, impartial divifion he was able to make of it ; and his pleafure and fatisfaction in the performance of that tafk were not lefs vifible in his countenance than his actions. I asked him if he was willing to go to Pretane ; but he told me that he expeâed to have been there in twelve moons, but that now he fhould be glad to return to Atoui» It feems captain Mears had engaged in a Portuguefe expedition to the coaft of America, and promifed to leave Tyaana at Atoui in his paffage thither. The gentlemen at Canton, defirous to give him lafting proofs of their friendfhip and efteem, furnifhed him with whatever could be ufeful or acceptable ; fuch as bulls, cows, iheep, goats, rabbits, turkies, &x. with oranges, mangoes, and various kinds of plants ; fo that his fafe arrival with his cargo would prove of the utmoft value to his country, and an honourable teftimony to his countrymen of the diftinguifhed efteem and regard with which he had been treated, $5 and NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. and his very name revered by all ranks and conditions of the people of Canton. Tyaana is tall ; being fix feet two inches in height, and fo exceedingly well made, that a more perfect fym- metry and juft proportion of fhape is rarely to be met with j but he is rather inclined to corpulency ; has a pleafing animated countenance, a fine piercing eye ; but the annexed engraving, which is taken from a painting for which he fat at Canton, and which was deemed a ftriking likenefs, will give a more perfect idea of him than can pof- fibly be conveyed by .verbal defcription. 3^3 CHAP XV. >787- December. Eli 3 A 2 §!§§ *fl 3$fc A VO YAGE TO THE ii II nii iiiiiiii Till m a 'WA 1788. February. Wednef. 6. CHAP. XVI. Leave Macao.—Proceed through the Straits of Banca and Sunda.—Anchor at North Ifland.—The Veffels part iCompany.—Arrival at Saint Helena.—Departure from thence.—Five of the People - nearly poifoned by eating Fifh,.-—Arrival in England. N the morning of the 6th of. February a frefh breeze, with open cloudy weather ; latter part moderate breezes and hazy. At feven in the morning weighed and came to fail, with an intention of taking a birth below the fhipping, to be in readinefs for going down the river immediately on the pilot's coming on board. At eight, a rope getting into the tiller rope block in flays, occafioned the fhip's touching the ground. It was very near the pitch of low water, and by the time we had run out a kedge, and hove taught on the haufer, fhe floated off. At nine the pilot came on board ; employed failing and warping down the river with a light breeze from the North Eafl. About noon had got down nearly to the lower parts of the fhipping, where we anchored for a few minutes, and gave the fhip's company an opportunity of getting fome dinner; and I have to remark, that Robert Spencer, John Harrifon, and Thomas Potts, flole a boat from along-fide the fhip at about eight or nine in the evening, and abfented themfelves for fome time; and en my fending. Mr. Hay ward with another boat 5 to m m NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 3$5 to look for them, he picked them up near the Bankfhalls. c g a p. They had been purchafing a quantity of liquor, fufficient to <——Is? have kept the fhip's company in a ftate of drunkennefs February. for fome days. Thofe three perfons, fince our arrival at Wednef-6- Wampoa, either from drunkennefs, or ficknefs occafioned by it, fcarcely did a week's duty. Thurfday 7. On Thurfday the 7th very light winds from the Eaft North Eaft, with clofe hazy weather ; employed failing and towing down the river; and at fix in the evening the tide of ebb being done, and not enough wind to flem the flood with, we anchored with the fmall bower anchor in five fathoms, muddy bottom, about three or four miles below the fhipping at Wampoa; Queen Charlotte in company. At midnight the wind light and variable between the North and Wefl. At five in the morning weighed, and came to fail with the ebb, with a light breeze from the North North Weft, and fine weather; Queen Charlotte in company. Soon after getting under way, the wind chopped round to the Eaft South Eaft : employed turning down the river until ten in the morning, at which time we anchored in about five fathoms, muddy bottom, with the fmall bower. All this morning we had light winds from the South Fridays. Eaft, with fine weather. At three in the afternoon the ebb-tide having made ftrong, we weighed and came to fail, Queen Charlotte in company. At eight in the evening came-to with the fmall bower in five fathoms water, muddy bottom. At fix a breeze North North Eaft, weighed and came to fail. Ate signt oasffed through the Boca Tigris with a fine breeze at North Weft, 11 I B m %M\ M V(V*W» *iF M 366 CHAP. XVI. 1788. February. Friday 8*. Saturday o. Sunday 10. A V G YAGE TO THE Weft, with which we were flanding towards Macao. At noon a breeze at Weft North Weft, with fine pleafant weather, a number of Chinefe boats along-fide, with vafl quantities of oyfters, which we bought very cheap. At nine in the morning fent the whale-boat on board a fhip at anchor. She proved to be the Diana, country fhip, from India for Wampoa, who had been miffing fome time. Moderate breeze from the Weft, with fine clear weather.- At two in the afternoon the wind hauled round to the fouthward. At feven in the evening, 'the ebb being down,, we anchored with the fmall bower in eight fathoms water, muddy bottom. At midnight a moderate breeze at Eaft South Eaft. At two in the morning a breeze at North Eaft, and the ebb having made, we weighed and came to fail. At eight very light airs, and variable. At half paft: eight came-to with the fmall bower m five fathoms water. At ten a moderate breeze at South. At half paft eleven weighed and came to fail. Calmj with fair weather. At two in the afternoon a light breeze from the Weft by South, Handing down towards Macao. At five Macao bore North Weft by Weft, diflant about four leagues, and the Weflernmoft part of the Grand Ladrone South by Eafl one quarter Eaft, diftant about eight leagues; the ifland of Patoe, which is a fmall ifland, lying juft to the Weftward of the Grand Ladrone, bearing South three quarters Eaft, diftant about feven leagues. A moderate breeze from the South Eaft by Eaft, with which we were Handing through between the Patoe and the iflands lying to the Weftward. At half paft five, hoifted in the whale-boat and fecured her, and placed NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 3fy 1788. February. placed the Sandwich Ifland Canoes on the quarter in room of the whale-boat. At this time tlie pilot left us ; I fent by kim a letter for Henry Browne Efq. prefident of the council at Canton, fignifying the fituation and good condition Sunday 10 of the King George and Queen Charlotte; alfo a letter of advice for Mr. John Etches, or the commander of the Prince of Wales or Princefs Royal, to be delivered on either of their arrivals. At half paft feven the breeze having failed, and the tide fetting to the Weflward, we came-to with a fmall bower in fix fathoms water, Queen Charlotte in company, the Grand Ladrone bearing from South Eaft half Eaft to South Eaft half South, diftant about five leagues, the ifland of Patoe South Eaft by Eaft three leagues. At midnight calm and very hazy. At three in the morning a light breeze fprung up at North North Eaft, weighed and made fail, Queen Charlotte in company. At half an hour after nine in the forenoon the South Eaft point of the Grand Ladrone bore North Eaft half North, diftant about twenty-five miles, from whence I took my departure: Grand Ladrone latitude 2 2° 2 North, longitude 246° 4.'. day io,' Thurfda) The nth, 12th, and 13th February, for the moft From s part fair weather. A number of the fhip's company ill with fluxes, and others with fevers, owing (in the opinion of the furgeon) chiefly to their hard drinking whilft at Wampoa. On the 12 th faw many dark-coloured gulls and fome boobies, all white except the tips of their wings, which were black. At half paft feven in the morning of the 13 th faw a fail in the North Eaft quarter Handing to the Southward. At nine the ftrange fail being near 8 RH M « -■M enough 368 A VOYAGE TO THE Hgpj Ifiif! IM y C xv? P# enoilg^ to fee our colours, we hoifled them; the ftranger *———' anfwered us by fhewing her's, which we took to. be Pruffian; From Sunday latitude obferved 18° oi' North, latitude account i8° 09' day^. ur North, courfe South, 30 oo'Weft, diftance from the Grand Ladrone fifty-four miles; longitude account 2460 04' Weft, longitude obfervation 2460 35' |jjg Weft, variation oa o'.. On the 14th inftant fpoke with the fhip whick we kad been within fight of all day, which proved to be. a veffel formerly called the Lowden, Britifh built, and about fif- . teen montks ago fitted out in the river Thames, from whence fhe failed under Imperial colours to King George's Sound on the North Weft coaft of America, and from thence to Macao in China.. She is now called the Imperial Eagle, commanded by captain Berkley, and manned by Britifh fubjects. She at this time failed under Portuguefe colours, and was bound for the Mauritius. Our people were now all upon the recovery; the Queen Charlotte in company. Friday iS. qn Friday the 15th light winds from Eafl by South. Saturday 16. On the 16th a moderate breeze, with the wind at North Eaft; at eleven, judging myfelf pretty near the Macclesfield fhoal, hove to, and founded with fixty fathoms line ; no ground. At midnight founded again with fixty fathoms line; no ground. At one in the morning a vafl number of porpoifes about. Between midnight and feven founded every hour without getting ground, fometimes with a hundred fathoms of line. At feven o'clock, judging myfelf far enough to the Southward, I altered my courfe to South Weft by South, with a view of making Pulo Sapata, the wind at North Eafl, a two knot breeze. I fuppofed. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. \6g y id. fuppofed, from our not ftriking foundings on the Macclef- c ** VA F field, that it does not extend fo far to the Weftward as *—*— laid down in the charts, and that we paffed juft to the February. Weftward of the bank. I fuppofed this, from our being pretty certain of our longitude; having at 2h 30m paft midday got fome very good obfervations of the fun and moon, the. fun Weft of the moon, which gave the longitude at that time 2450 54' Weft of Greenwich. Saw many birds of the booby kind. At eight in the morning hailed the Queen Qharlotte. Captain Dixon informed me that his veflei made fome water when fhe lay along, three inches per nour; his furgeon and cooper's mate very ill; our people all on the recovery. On the 17th I took my furgeon on Sunday ||; board to give his advice or affiftance, and took with me about ten or twelve gallons of Port wine for the ufe of the Queen Charlotte's fick ; faw a few birds of the tern kind, a number of flying-fifh, and fome dolphins. About the 18th Monday 18. I found, by comparing our compaffes with the Queen Charlotte's azimuth compafs, half a point difference, ours fhewing half a point more to the Southward than her's did. I believe the azimuth compafs.to be the moft exact, and allowed accordingly. At half paft three in the afternoon I returned on board, hoifled the whale-boat in, and made fail. Our furgeon was of opinion, that the people on board the Queen Charlotte were in a fair way of recovery, and that there was no neceffity of removing them into this fhip, as I intended, for the purpofe of having the furgeon's affiftance. Captain Dixon informed me that the Queen Charlotte made about three inches of water an hour, She foon after leaving the Ladrone made one and two inches, ' and as her leak increafed, I thought it right to flay by her I B until M M 37° HAP. XVI. February. Wednef. zo. AVOYAGE TO THE until we faw how it turned out. Pulo Sapata at noon bore South 51° Weft, diftant 285 miles. On the 20th we had frefh gales with cloudy weather, and the wind being North by Eaft, I fleered South Weft half Weft, to avoid the Vigia rock. At a quarter paft ten faw the ifland of Sapata, bearing South Weft one quarter South, diftant about eleven miles. Hauled to the South South Weft to go to the Eaftward of the ifland. A fmall hummock rock in one with Sapata, bearing from Sapata North Weft by Weft, three quarters Weft5 and diftant from Sapata about three or four miles. This ifland is perfectly bold on the North and Eaft fides, the South and Weft not fo fafe, owing to the fmall hummock rock, and a few breakers. It is well named, for it is ex- a<£tly fhaped like a fhoe, and no perfon can be deceived in it, for it feems to bear the fame likenefs on all fides, not a tree or buffi to be feen on it; but there were boobies in great abundance, the ifland being made white by their dung. Thurfdayzi. On the 2iA we fhaped our courfe about South Weft by Weft, thinking to make Pulo Condore at about five or fix leagues to the Eaftward of the ifland; from thence we fleered for PuloTimoan and Pulo Cloz. About two in the afternoon few another fmall ifland bearing about North Weft by North, and diftant about four or five leagues. I imagined this to be one of the fmall iflands laid down by Dalrymple, lying to the Weftward of Pulo Sapata. He alfo lays feveral down to the Eaftward of Sapata; none of which I found to be there. At three in the afternoon Pulo Sapata bore North Eaft, diftant eleven miles. With a fine fleady gale at North Eaft, we fleered South Weft half Wefl, four knots per NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERTCA per kour; this South Weft half Weft by our compafs being nearly South Weft by Weft true. On the 2 2d our people continued very ill; feveral of them in fluxes. On 25 th faw the iflands of Aramba bearing from North Eaft by Eaft to Eaft by North, our diftance from the North end about eight leagues. At fix Pulo Domer bore South Eaft. 37l CHAP. XVI. 1788. February. Friday 22. Monday zj. On the 26th, a light breeze from North North Eaft, Tuefday 26. with, clofe hazy weather, fleering to the South half Weft, two-knots and a kalf per hour, foundings from thirty-three to twenty-eight fathoms, over a bottom of dark muddy fand and fome fmall {hells. At captain Dixon's requeft, I fent my furgeon on board to give his affiftance to Mr. Lowther, furgeon of the Queen Charlotte, who continued very ill. The Queen Charlotte's Peruvian bark being very indifferent, I fent them a fupply of ours, which was much fetter. Captain Dixon returned with the boat, and was alfo much indifpofed with the flux, which was very prevalent among us. We faw the land making in feparate fmall iflands, extending from South South Weft to South Weft by Weft half Weft, the Southernmoft land the ifland of Pulo Panfang, and diftant about eight leagues'; Queen Charlotte in company. Latitude obferved i° 11' North; light breezes from North Eaft, with exceeding hot fultry weather, On the 27th the peak of Linging made its appearance through Wednef.27. the haze, bearing Weft North Weft half Weft, I fuppofe twelve or fourteen leagues diftant. This peak, or rather two peaks, are very remarkable, making very much like two glafs- koufe-chimnies, quite high and clofe together; the North Eafternmoft of the two appearing rather rounder at the top than the other, and of nearly an equal height : at the 1 B 2 fame mi ii f'WÉiw 372 H A XVI. 1788, February. Wednef. 27. fame them eight three A VOYAGE TO THE time the largeft, and I think the moft Eafterly of bore North Weft by Weft half Weft, diftant about or nine leagues; the ifland of Taya South Weftf quarters Weft, diftant eight or nine leagues, depth of water eighteen to fifteen fathoms dark grey fand ; faw the clufter of iflands, called the Three Iflands, bearing South, diftant about five leagues. ' Inftead of three iflands, we found iflands and rocks, upwards of a dozen, the largeft of the clufter of iflands and rocks, and which is nearly the Northern and Weftern extreme of them, bore from South South Eaft half Eaft to South by Eaft half Eaft, diftant three leagues; fome fmall rocks above water lying a little to the Northward and Weftward of this ifland South by Weft, Pulo Taya North Weft three quarters Weft, feven or eight leagues diftant. We run along the Weft fide of the clufter Three Iflands, at the diftance of three or four miles from them in fifteen or fixteen fathoms water, over a dark grey fandy bottom. Thefe iflands are a moderate height, very woody, and appear to be fafe and bold too; there are fome fandy beaches, which I dare fay afford plenty of turtle, and no appearance of any breakers any where about the ifles, except at a little diftance from the points of the fmall rocky ifles. At half paft eleven the Queen Charlotte hoifted her colours half mart high ; on this we fhortened fail, fpoke her, and found her furgeon dead. At noon clufter Three Iflands bore from North Eafl by Eaft half Eaft to South Eaft by Eaft half Eafl, diflant from the neareft ifland about three leagues; the fmall iflands lying off the North end of Banca, bearing South South Weft, diflant ten or twelve leagues, and Pulo Taya about North North Weft, diftant ten or twelve leagues. I make the Northern and Weftern extreme of the clufter Three Iflands to lie in the NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 373 the latitude i° 4' South, and longitude from lunar ob- c **A p- fervation 2540 34 Weft, and latitude of the South ex- v—i-. tremeof faid clufter i° 17' South, and longitude 2540 28' Fewy. Weft. Thofe iflands feem to ftretch in a South by Eaft Wednef' Z1* and North by Weft diredionof the fame fmall rocky iflands, but may lie a little out of that direction to the Eaftward and Weflward. 111 I 111,11 IS The 2 9th we had a fine ffeady breeze at North North Eaft, and fleered to South by Weft, four knots and a half per hour, the depth of water varying as we increafed our diftance from, the clufter Three Iflands, from twelve to twenty-one fathoms. At four the Southernmoft of the I clufter Three Iflands bore North North Eafl three quarters Eaft, diftant about eight leagues ; this bearing and diftance, and Mount Monopin South half Eaft, diftant about twelve leagues. This bearing and diftance by me, places the Mount almoft exactly in the fame fituation that captain King places it in.. We now altered the courfe to South South "Weft and South, ^Weft by South, thinking before dark to get the Mount to bear about South Eaft by Eaft, or Eaft South Eafl, diftant fix or feven leagues, as,- according to captain King's account, with that bearing and diftance, we fhouldhave been clear to the Weftward of the fhoal called Frederic Hen- dric, and then we could have hauled up for Banca Straits; but. we could not accomplifh this point before dark, therefore I thought it moft prudent to fland off and; on during the night, and to enter the Straits in the morning." At fix in the evening Monopin bore South South Eaft, diftant about eight or nine leagues, and the point of Banca that forms' the Eaftern entrance into the. Straits South three quarters Eaft, ten or eleven leagues; the iflands Friday-25,. :m\ "■111 IO A VOYAGE TO THE p- iflands lying off the North end of Banca Eaft half North, fix or feven leagues. We had foundings in twenty-one fathoms, dark grey fand. Saw a ftrange fail to the Northward Handing to the Southward ; fuddenly fhoaled our water to thirteen fathoms, Handing to the North Weft, and at half paft nine fuddenly fhoaled the water to feven and a half, foft muddy bottom. This fhoal water I fuppofed to be the Frederic Hendric fhoal, or a fhoal laid down in Hamilton Moore's account, lying near tke Sumatra fhore. A fine breeze from the North Weft, with rather fqually weather and fome fhowers of rain, fleering from Eaft by South to Eaft by North, four knots per hour along the Banca coaft, at the diftance of about four miles from the fhore. At half paft twelve, we fhoaled our water to feven fathoms, and there being an appearance of a bank lying to the Southward of us, hauled up Eaft by North, and juft run along its edge in fix and a half and feven fathoms water, this appearance of a bank on our ftarboard hand, and the fhore of Banca on our larboard, the Banca fhore diflant about four miles, and the bank diflant a quarter of a mile. Soon after hauling nearer the Banca fhore, we deepened our water to fifteen fathoms, and then edged away again to the South.by Eafl. About one I got fight of fome rocks and a dry white fand-bank, bearing about Eaft by South half South ; we hauled to the Eaft by North, and paffed between Banca and this fhoal, in never lefs than feven fathoms water over a fandy bottom. At half paft one Mount Monopin bore North Weft by North, and near about the middle of the fhoal South Eaft by South, our diftance from the Mount about five leagues I judged, and from the fea-fhore under the Mount about 8 nine Mm 1788. Sunday. March 2. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 375 nine or ten miles, the fhoal diflant about a mile or a mile chap. and a half, our depth^of water at this time fifteen fathoms fandy bottom. The dry part of the fhoal appears to be about a quarter of a mile long, trending Eafl and Weft; it feems narrow; but the coloured water appeared two or three miles to run from the Eaft and Weft ends in an Eaft and Wefl dire&ion. The fhoal I fuppofe to be entirely covered at high water, I think a perfectly fafe paffage may be made into thofe ftraits, by keeping the Banca fhore on board, and paffing between it and this fhoal. Indeed I would prefer it rather than run down on the Sumatra fhore, where fhould the winds hang Eafterly, it may prevent a fhip for fome time in entering the Straits. When we had Monopin Hill bearing North North Eaft half North, faw a large town on Banca in the fame direction clofe down to the fea-fide ; at the fame time few four large proas coming towards this town from towards the Straits of Malacca, and one going towards the Straits. At two in the afternoon the tide began to run to the South Eaft through the Straits at South, a light breeze from the North Eaft with fmall rain, and Mount Monopin bore North Weft half Weft, feven or eight leagues diftance, and the Northernmoft part of Banca in fight North Weft by Weft naif North, five leagues, and the Northernmoft part of Sumatra in fight South Weft half Weft. The third point on the Sumatra fhore bore South South Eaft half Eaft, three or four leagues diflant; our diftance from the neareft part of Banca three leagues ; the Queen Charlotte in company. Saw a ftrange fail to the North Weft ftanding to the Southward. At noon we had light winds from Weft by North, with confiant rain, fleering South by Eaft, two miles per hour;, at the fame time the fécond point on the Sumatra fhore Weft 11 II I mm m m> 376 C H A XVI. 1788. March. Sunday 2. Monday 3. A VOYAGE TO THE Well, three quarters North, diftance about five miles ; and Mount Permifang, on the ifland of Banca, North Eaft half Eaft, diftance about four or five leagues. On the 2d March we paffed by a Dutch fhip lying at anchor. She appeared to be a man of war of twenty guns. At four in the afternoon the firft point on the Sumatra fhore South Eaft half South, five or fix miles, and the Southernmoft point of Banca Eaft half South, four or five leagues ; Mount Permifang, on the ifland of Banca, North Weft fix or feven leagues. Hove-to for the fhip that was Handing after us, and at a quarter paft four we fpoke her, and found her to be the fhip Lanfdown, captain Storey commander, from China, bound to London. On 3d March light winds and very variable, with clofe fultry weather. At half paft one weighed and ftood over to the Sumatra fhore; the wind very faint, and a ftrong tide fetting to the South Eaft, which drove us very near the other fhoal, that lies between the ifland of Lufpura and the firft point of Sumatra ; at the fame time anchored in five fathoms, a little to the South Eaft; the Lanfdown anchored in three fathoms and a quarter. Soon after a breeze fpringing up from ' the North Eaft, we weighed and ftood to the North North Weft, as did the Queen Charlotte and Lanfdown, to clear the - North point of the above-mentioned fkoal, and at five we paffed over it in three fathoms water ; as did the Queen Charlotte ; the Lanfdown in going over ftruck and ftuck faft, and made a fignal of diftrefs. We immediately anchored in five fathoms water, muddy bottom ; as did the Charlotte, and fent our boats with kedge anchors and hawfers to il NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. . m to their affiftance. When at anchor, the firft point on the c H A p- Sumatra fhore bore North North Wefl about two or three j—pL> leagues ; the Southernmoft point on the ifland of Sumatra ivft in fight. At half paft nine the Lanfdown made the Monday 3< fignal for more affiftance ; hoifted out our yaul, and fent four hands and an officer to their affiftance. At half paft ten the yaul returned, having got her off without receiving any damage. From this time to^ the 8th nothing particular occurred; when the Lanfdown almoft out of fight. Latitude obferved 40 50' South; latitude per bearing, and diftance of the Sifters, 40 54' South; longitude per ditto 2 5 30 44' from Greenwich. On the 9th, ftrong gales" and fqually weather, with Sunday 9. thunder and fharp lightning : down topgallant-yards and ftruck the topgallant-mails. At midnight frefk gales at Weft North Weft ; loft fight of the Queen Charlotte ; fuppofe fhe was driven off. At daylight faw the Queen Charlotte to the Eaftward ; fhe had drove during the gale about two leagues ; got under way to join us. The 10th Monday 10; a ligkt breeze from the Northward, with cloudy weather. The Queen Charlotte in company ; the Lanfdown barely in fight. Several of our people ill with fluxes. On this day at one o'clock in the morning Thomas Tuefday jg Pafford, armourer's mate, departed this life, and at fix o'clock in the evening was buried, after having read the ufual funeral fervice over the body. Hoifted out the whale-boat, and fent her with an officer and fix hands on fhore, to look about the reef, by which thefe iflands are furrounded, for turtle. Latitude obferved 50 7' South ; 3 C latitude III»! ii A VOYAGE TO THE latitude per bearing, and diftance of thé Sifters, 50 x{ South; longitude per ditto 2530 50' Weft. On the 12th light winds and clear. At three o'clock in the morning the whale-boat returned without any fuccefs ; having feen no figns of any turtle, nor any kind of fruit on fhore ; but faw great flocks of wild pigeons. On the 13th light winds and cloudy. Saw lying in the road two Dutch fhips and three Dutch ketches. Came to anchor. Soon after an Englifh cutter came along-fide, in which was Mr. Wood, late commander of the Charlotte floop packet from the Prefidency of Bombay, with intelligence for any Englim Company's fhips from China. This gentleman had unfortunately loft his packet on a fmall ifland near Cracatoo ; and after getting on fhore, was attacked and beat off by a country pirate, who, after plundering her, burnt the veffel down to the water's edge. Notwithflanding this gentleman*s misfortunes, he has been lucky enough in executing his commiffion fo far, with a boat fpared him from the Lafcelles, captain Balin- tine ; as no one fhip has paffed without being fpoke with and receiving the intelligence. Before he met with, and got this cutter from the Lafcelles, he did his bufinefs with a fmall canoe that he found on the ifland on which his veffel was loft. At noon Handing on towards the roads with a gentle O fc> breeze from the Northward ; came to anchor, Queen Charlotte in company. On the 14th the ifland of Java extending from South Eaft by Eaft to South, diflant from 9 the ill NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 379 chap. XVI. 1788. March. Saturday iç. the neareft part of it five or fix leagues. On the 15th the Lanfdown anchored in thefe roads for the purpofe of filling water. Sent a boat with a party of men to the North Ifle to cut wood ; alfo fent our fick people on fhore to take a walk. Served turtle to the fhip's company. On the 16th completed our wooding and watering; having filled Sunday 16. thirty-feven puncheons, five butts, and one hogfhead, and got on board one boat-load of wood. This evening hoifted in the boats, lafhed all our water-cafks, and in every re- fpecf. got the fhip ready for fea. At eight weighed and came to fail; the Queen Charlotte in company. From this time to the 26th nothing particular. This day died John Coppertwaith, landfman, after experiencing near two months illnefs of tke flux. Wednef. z6. illy» From this to the 30th we had frefh Northerly breezes. Sund This day I brought-to for the Queen Charlotte to come up. About nine I fent the whale-boat on board the Queen Charlotte for captain Dixon, and fent our furgeon to look at their fick, and to make up any medicine he thought neceffary, and leave directions with them in cafe of illnefs. On captain Dixon's coming on board, we agreed to part, and each of us to make the beft of our way for Saint Helena. At four, the wind at North Eaft, altered our courfe to Soutk Weft. Captain Dixon took leave of me, and returned to the Queen Charlotte ; and our furgeon returned on board. Hoifted in the boat, and made fail. From this time to the 12th of June we Thur had a great deal of bad weather, frequently attended with heavy rains and thunder and lightning. This day few the ifland of Saint Helena bearing Weft by North, diftant fix or feven leagues. ay 30. une. fday i 2. 3C 2 On llihlml, IwV 380 CHAP. XVI. ». .-, f 1788/ June. Friday 1; WM A VOYAGE TO THE On the 13th a brifk breeze at South Eaft, with heavy weather. At half paft noon fhortened fail and brought-to. Hoifted out the whale-boat and fent her on fhore with an officer, to acquaint the governor of our arrival off the ifland, At three o'clock the boat returned, with directions from the governor to come in. Bore away and made fail for the bay, and at five anchored with the fmall bower in thirteen fathoms : hand away and moored with the beft bower to the North Weft in nineteen fathoms, over a bottom of fine black muddy fand; the points of the bay bearing North Eafl by Eaft half Eaft, and South Weft by Weft half Weft, the town South Eaft by Eaft, our diftance from the fhore about half a mile. From this time to the eighteenth, the carpenter with his. party employed in repairing the fheath- ing, cleaning the bottom, and other neceflary repairs ; others employed in receiving frefh provifions on board, likewife pitch and tàr. The people had leave given them to go on fhore. Abundance of fine mackrel and bonettas to be always caught along-fide the fhip. Completed our water, having got on board thirteen tons and a half. Wednef. 18. On the 18th arrived here the Queen Charlotte, all well ; received the governor's difpatches, and at eleven unmoored and hove fhort on the beft bower, waiting for a Thurfday 19. kreeze. On the 19th a light breeze from the South Eaft, with fine weather ; weighed and came to fail ; faluted the garrifon with nine guns, which was returned with an equal number. Hoifted in the whale-boat and. made fail. At four o'clock in the afternoon St. Helena bore Eaft South Eaft, and South South Eaft half Eaft, and the Valley Town South Eaft ; our diftance from the fhore about twelve or thirteen miles. From this time to the 25th moderate NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, derate breezes from the South Eaft. This day five of my people, after eating a hearty dinner of bonettas, which had been caught while at Saint Helena, and faked and hung up for fea-ftore, were in about an hour afterwards taken very ill of a violent pain in the head, an eruption on the fkin, and every part confiderably fwelled and inflamed ; thefe alarming appearances in a great meafure fubfided after their drinking a little fweet oil, and towards the evening they were all nearly recovered. In confequence of thofe fifh having fuch a poifonous effect, I ordered all that remained to be thrown over-board. From this time to the 22d Auguft afforded little variety, when we made the Ifle of Wight ; and on the 24th came to anchor in Margate Roads ; the people all in high fpirits,'and rejoiced to fee their native fhore-again. I cannot take leave of my readers without doing juftice to the tradefrrien that fitted us out with provifions ; particularly Mr. Stevens, who fupplied us with the very beft of every kind ; and Meffrs. Scale and Waters, a puncheon of whofe bread I opened in the river, and found it equally good as when firft put on board. CHAP. XVI. 1788. June. Wednef. 25. Auguft. Friday 22, Sunday 24. I M\ THE grand object: of the Voyage, of which an account is given in the preceding fheets, being to trade for furs, with an expe&ation, no doubt, of gaining more than common profits, by an undertaking which at once was new, hazardous, and uncertain ; the world will naturally enquire whether fuch expectation has been anfwered ; and more particularly as reports have been induftrioufly propagated to the contrary. 7 That NI Illi,;^; TO w, 38: A VOYAGE TO THE '3UL M ill C xvt P* That the King George's Sound Company have not accumulated immenfe fortunes may perhaps be true ; but it is no lefs certain that they are gainers to the amount of fome thoufands of pounds ; and that the voyage did not anfwer the utmoft extent of their wifhes, undoubtedly was owing to their own inexperience ; for when the King George and Queen Charlotte arrived at Canton, and even a month after that period, prime fea-otter fkins fold from eighty to ninety dollars each. .Of this quantity thefe fhips had at leaft two thoufand on board, befides a large quantity of furs of inferior value : but though we could have fold our cargo with eafe, we were not at liberty to difpofe of one material article ; the fole management of it being veiled in the hands of the Eafl India Company's fupercargoes ; and at length the fkins juft mentioned were fold for lefs than twenty dollars each. From this plain ftatement of faSls, the public may at once perceive that this branch of commerce, fo far from being a lofing one, is perhaps the moft profitable and lucrative employ that the enterprifing merchant can pof- fibly engage in. A LIS T NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. $3 EstsHSaroSaSBSEESIEEseK» A LIST of PLANTS, BIRDS, and FOSSILS, feen in Cook's River, and which are nearly the fame all along the Coaft of America. \ it IS P L A N T S. Vaccinium vitis idsea Red whortle-berries Erica Adoxa mofchatellina Tuberous mofchatel Rubus idasus, rafpberry bufh Fragaria vefca, wood ftrawberry Leantodea taraxicum, common. dandelion Artemifia vulgaris, mugwort Ribus Alpinum Vaccinium myrtillus, bilberries Gnaphalium dioicum, cat's foot Erigeron acre, blue fleabane Archillea millefolium, yarrow f Empetrum nigrum, crow-berries Lilium Kamtfchatchenfe, or Sa- vanne Plantago major, great plantane Heracleum penaces, or fweet grafs Veronica Iris Angelica fylveftris Rume acetofa Alifma plantago aquatica Ledum paluftre Arbutus uva urfe , Myrica gale Rubus chaineemorus Aconitum napellus Ranunculus Aftragalus alope curoides Polygonum biftorta, fnake-weed Orchis latifolia Betula mana Lupinus luteus Allium vincale Imperatoria Sedum vefticillatum After Pinus Canadenfis Birch alder Populus alba Wild rofe bufhes Senapis juncea Aftragalus uralenfis Aquilegia Saxifraga nivalis m *o- - granulata Sifymbrium Monenfis Draba verna Polypodium vulgare Convallaria ftellata Rumex acutus Rumex aquatic m BIRDS. A V O Y A G E, &c. BIRDS. White-headed eagle ■ bellied lath Crows, ravens, common fwallow6 The jay of Steller, black groufe Black fea pies, with red bills Kingsfifher of a bluifh colour, fpeckled with white Snipes, grey fand piper Wild geefe and fwans Shags, gulls, the razor bill The little lufk, the common ihear- water Numberlefs brown petrels, terns. FOSSILS. The compofition of the mountains of a grey granite, mixed with glimmer and quartz; the firft ufually black, and the laft pur- plifh This is covered-with a ftratum of clay, and above that with a bed of rich vegetable earth Sulphur, pelluadum, black lead Copper ftone of a blue colour Iron ftone of a black colour Red oker, canne! coal. ÂPPEN. p TABLES of the ROUTE of the KING GEORGE and QUEEN CHARLOTTE, the Variation of the Compafs, and Meteorological Obfervations, during the Voyage. N. B. In thefe Tables, the Situation of the Ships at Noon is fet down, and the Variation as obferved fome Time the fame Day. TABLE I. From Falkland's Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1786. Jan. 23, ? TSJnnn \ J 24 27 s8 Latitude South. si 36 52 07 52 33 53 43 54- 59 55 29 Longitude Weft. 60 54 62 49 63 12 63 54 63 43 64 00 Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks» I 22 23 07 South. Light winds, and fine pleafant ) weather. New Ifland S. E..IE. diftant C. eight miles. j N. W. Frefh breezes and cloudy, land in fight. Ditto. Light breezes, and foggy. W. S. W. Frefh breezes, and clear. Variable. Strong gales and fqually, lightning to the S. W. Point St. Julian N. W. b. W. g W. Paffed a very ftrong rippling fetting to the Northward. r W. b. N. to S. b. E. Strong gales, and I fqually. A heavy fea. PT No with "♦;#■ m » APPENDIX. EffiM v? Mil ' Mi ill ««si TABLE I. Continued. Ronfce of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland's Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1786. fefc 29-1 Noon. 1 3° 31 Latitude South. Feb. II 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 IO II 12 13 55' 56 57 58 58 59 60 59 60 60 59 59 58 56 M Î5 16 17 18 56 55 56 56 56 55" 3° 53 55 08 J4 07 J9 27 °9 c8 Longitude Weft. 64 07 €3 35 63 39 64 35 66 15 66 59 68 01 68 02 7° J3 55 °9 42 49 49 16 OJ 31 Variation' Eaft. 24 71 HJ26 72 03 74 05 75 °5 75 45 75 55 78 03 79 4° 81 81 1? 11 82 ©9 82 22 !2 45 OO t6 19 21 6 34 1 26 48 j Winds, Weather, and Remarks. S. S. E. to W. N. W. Frefh gales, with rain. Weftt Frefh gales, and fqually. S. W. to N. W. Moderate and haçyy - r\V. N. W. to S. b. E. Light winds, and foggy. Saw lèverai penguins. Variable. Frefh breezes, wrjhc&jn. Dkto. Frefh gajgs, and fqually, with rain. r N. N. W. to W. S. W. Strong gales, and ] m a heavy fea from the N. W. J Variable. Frefh breezes, with rain. Weft. Frefh gales, and fqually. t Variable. Frefh gales, with hail and rain, l and a fwell from the S. W. S. S". W. to Eaft. Moderate and cloudy. 'Variable. Moderate and- cloudy, with a fwell from the S. W; Saw a penguin, a diver, and a quaker bird. b. W. to1 S. W. b. Wj. SJ£ong breezes, with; fleet and fnow. I S. W. Frefh galçs, and fqually. I S. W. to W. N. W. Moderate, and cloudy. i.W. N. W. to S. W. Light winds, and I cloudy. j S. W. Moderate*, and cloudy. {KL W. Modéra^ an^l hazj^ and a heavy l fea from the N.W. Weft. Light winds, an|d cloudy^ I Ditto. Frefh'gafes and jf^aaîly, with rain. j Weft to W. b. (sf. Freflji gales and fqually, J and a heavy fwell from the weftward. I Paflpd fome fèa weed. A P P E N I X. m TABLE I. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland's Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1786. Feb. 19, > Noon. 5 22 Latitude South. 55 52 21 52 20 Longitude Weft. 47 41 45 58 45 30 22 Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Strong gales and 59 81 05 '80 43 79 53 79 49 80 40 82 12 12 i W. N. W. to N. N. W. I fqually. i N. W. Strong gales, and fqually, and a j heavy fea. I Ditto. Ditto, ditto, with rain, t N. W. Frefh breezes, and clear. Cleaned 501 fhip. 53 J Variable. Squally, with rain. r Weft to N. b. W. Strong'gales, with rain, I and a heavy fea from the northward., N. W. Frefh gales, with rain. Variable. Strong gales, with ràin. cN. W. Strong gales, and fqually, and a I heavy Tea from the N. W. t Ditto. Strong gales, and fqually, with I rain. Paffed a piece of drift wood. W. N. W. Frefh breezes, and clear. Weft. Frefh gales, and cloudy. Ditto. Ditto, ditto, and fqually. W. N. W. Frefh gales, and fqually, with drizzling rain, and a heavy fea from the weftward. i Weft. Frefh breezes, and pleafant-weather. if Cleaned fhip. ! ; W. N. W. Frefh gales, with rain, and a| 1! heavy crofs fea. Weft. Light winds, and hazy. N. W. Moderate, and hazy. Weft. Moderate, and cloudy, r Variable. Moderate, and hazy, and a 41 I fwell from the S. W. j Variable. Moderate, and cloudy. [A] 2 '«lull KM wl Wtf IV APPENDIX. 5R I'l'iid :£4«i H ilï>>5ii Mi i||| J T A B LE I. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland's Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. Lati Sou tude th. Longitude Weft. Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks/ 1786. 0 • 0 • 0 é ^32^f*>- Mar. 12,7 Noon, i 42 53 83 02 15 07 Variable. Moderate, and pleafant. I3 43 °5 84 18 N. W. Moderate, with foggy weather. 14 42 47 84 23 Variable. Light winds, and ditto, ditto. 15 42 14 85 85 04 36 $ Ditto. Frefh breezes, and fqually un- 1 fettled weather. r {S. W. to N. W. Frefh gales, with drizzling 1 rain. | W. S. W. Moderate, and hazy. 16 49 53 12 17 3? 42 85 58 r Variable. Frefh gales, and dark cloudy 52 J. weather, with a long fwell from the 18 38 06 86 5* IO [ S. W. *9 36 58 87 55 II f Ditto. Light winds, and hazy, and a heavy 57 J fwell from the S. S. W. 20 36 38 88 05 VVariable. Light airs, and pleafant wea- 1 ther. Saw a whale. 21 36 17 88 07 IO 23 Ditto. Light winds, and pleafant weather. 22 35 14 88 46 Weft to South. Moderate, and pleafant. 23 34 11 90 00 9 r9 Variable. Light winds and lair. 24 33 29 9° 37 8 14 Ditto. Moderate, and cloudy. 25 32 3° 91 51 Eaft. Moderate, and clear. "Ditto. Light winds, and clear, Saw a 26 3i 46 93 23 7 29. fail to the N. W. (landing to the fouth- ward, but did not fpeak her. 27 30 46 94 26 7 § 10 Ditto. Moderate and pleafant weather. -Variable. Frefh gale, and pleafant weather. Saw a tropic bird. "Eaft. Frefh breezes, and clear. 28 29 20 95" 42 29. 2? 28 00 96 44 6 36 j Ditto. Frefh gales, and clear pleafant wea- 30 26 28 97 33 J ther. Several tropic birds about the l lhiP* 32 j E. S. E. Frefh gales, and clear. 3* 25 07 98 33 4 APPENDIX. TABLE I. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland's Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands. Time* Latitude South. 1786. April 1, Noon. 11 15 16 16 4 13 51 7 °4 5 15 Longitudi Weft. 103 39 104 28 105 51 106 14 106 40 107 15 108 15 108 54 109 23 m 59 112 38 Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Eaft. A frefh trade, and pleafant weather. E. N. E. Moderate and clear. tropic aw with a Saw a 4 01 c Eaft. Ditto, ditto. Saw feveral ; birds. 4 19 I Variable. Light winds, and hazy. j Variable. Frefh breezes, and hazy. I feveral tropic birds- N. E. Light winds, and clear. E. N. E. Ditto, ditto, ditto. N. N. E. Light winds and hazy long fwell from the fouthward. land bird flying about the fhip. j N. E. A fine breeze, and pleafant weather. t Ditto. A light breeze, and clear. Many ) tropic birds flying round the fhip. fEaft. A fine breeze, and clear. Faffed a turtle. Lowered the boat down ; and upon taking of it up, found it to be a dead çne. Many tropic and men of war birds about. S. E. A frefh trade, and clear pleafant weather. Eaft. Ditto, ditto, ditto. S. E. A frefh trade and cloudy, with fhowers of rain. Variable. Moderate and clear. Many Porpoifes about the fhip. Caught a turtle, weighing 65 lbs. rEaft. A frefh trade, and pleafant weather. j Paffed many turtle. Numbers of birdij 1 about. i 3 41 Ie' 3 42 3 25 !il m 1 mil 1 VI APPENDIX. W T A B L E I. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland's Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1780. April 17,? Noon. 5 18 19 20 21 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 3° May 1 Latitude South. 3 °7 1 29 o 02 North. I 20 2 3 4 5 6 6 6 40 33 28 32 11 34 57 7 30 7 45 8 22 8 53 9 45 Longitude Weft. 113 22 113 57 115 10 Ii 4° 116 09 116 35 117 10 117 48 117 59 n8 10 118 17 118 49 IJ9 43 120 42 120 29 121 46 Variation Eaft. 3 3 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 28 2 55 S. E. A frefh breeze, and hazy. Saw a turtle. feMalny birds of the tern kind about. Variable. Moderate, with rain. Paffed a piece of fea weed. Saw a large flock of birds. S. E. Moderate, and cloudy. Ditto. Ditto, and clear. Variable. Moderate, and cloudy. Ditto. Light baffling winds, with rain Saw a whale. Ditto. Very unfettled weather. Ditto. Moderate and cloudy. Caught five banitos, and three fharks. Ditto. Moderate, with rain. S. W. Light winds, and cloudy. Variable. Light winds, with rain, and lightning in the N. E. board. Variable. Lighj: winds, with thunder and lightning. Paffed à turtle. Many dolphins and bonitos about. N. E. Moderate breezes, and cloudy Many dolphins and bonitos about the fhip. Variable. Frefh breezes, and hazy. Caught feveral bonitos. N. N. E. Moderate and cloudy. Caught a turtle. N. E. A frefh trade, and pleafant weather. Caught fix turtle ; fent two of them on board the Queen Charlotte. Saw a whale. APPENDIX TABLE J. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland's Iflands to the Sandwich Mands. Time. 1786. May 3, 1N00 mm n. S Latitude North. 10 49 II 12 I4 15 '9 33 19 46 20 Longitude Weft. 123 12 125 12 126 28 127 27 123 38 129 41 13° 34 131 27 132 35 134 11 *35 4? 138 18 Variation Eaft. 20 ci 140 07 16 19 59 M2 12 20 03 143 57 19 571T45 5° Winds, Weather, and Remarks* 1 N. E. Frgfh gales, and cloudy. Caught \ ten turtle : fent fonr of them on hoard i Cleaned % 7 21 ' ten turtle ; ferjt four qf them on board the Queen Charlotte. N. E. Frefh gales, and hazy. Nj E. b. N. Ditto, and cloudy. M E. A frefh trade, and hazy. 1 Ditto. Ditto, ditto. Paffed feveral turtle. Caught two of them. N, E. A frefh gale, andjhazy. Variable. Frefh] gales, and hazy ; Ditto. Ditto, d^tto, and cloudy, fhip. N. E. Frefh gale, and hazy. P. M. Being in the latitude of the Los Mfyos Ifles, and about four degrqes to the eaftward of them, hove-to for the night. Paffed fome fea wee<L i E. N. E. A frefh trfide, ana1 cloudy. c Hove-to for the night. \ Eaft. A frefh trade; and fqually. We i ftill continue to heave-to for the night, i Ditto. Frefh gales, and cloudy. Hove- to as ufual. Paffed a large patch of fea weed. E. b. N. A frefh gale, and hazy. Having paffed directly over the fpot, which the Spaniards laid them down ; and not feeing any thing of them, ftood on for the Sandwich llles. 34 ! Ditto. Squally, with rain. j N. E. A fine breeze^-and clear, j 1 ! Eaft. Ditto, ditto, ditto. I III 111 ii 1 11 < •« Vlll APPENDIX. rfl! mm TABLE I. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland's Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. Latitude North. Longitude Weft. 1786. May 19,7 Noon. 1 0 10 58 0 j '47 03 20 20 02 148 48 21 19 39 150 01 22 l9 J9 «5* 25 23 l9 10 153 21 24 l9 26 154 16" 25 18 56 26 27 Variation Eaft. 8 17 14 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Eaft. A fine breeze, and clear. N. E. to Eaft. Moderate and cloudy. Ditto, ditto. Ditto and clear. E. b. N. A frefh breeze, and hazy. Saw a man of war bird. E. N. E. A frefh gale, and hazy. Many dolphins about the fhip. E. b. N. Ditto, and hazy. At noon the N. E. point of Owhyhee bore N. y| W. Diftance about three leagues. ["E. N. E. Moderate and hazy. Thefouth < point of Owhyhee E. b. S. about nine l miles. j Variable, and light. Clofe in fhore. [Ditto. Light breezes, and cloudy. At < one P. M. came-to in Karakakooa Bay, t Owhyhee. 1 i APPENDIX. IX TABLE | II. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte whilft among the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1786. May 29,7 Noon. 1 30 31 June 1 Latitude North. 20 46 21 16 Longitude Weft. 156 06 I56 43 l57 45 160 15 Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 00 Variable. Light breezes and cloudy. The northernmoft land of Owhyhee in fight, N. b. E. fix or feven leagues. From South to E. N. E. A frefh breeze, and clear. The fouth point of the ifland of Tahorowa, S. S. E. fix or feven leagues. 1 E. N. E. Frefh gales, and fquajlly. The ) weft point of Morotoi E. S. E. nine pr L ten leagues. j N. E. Frefh breezes, and hazy. At anchor Î in W°ahoo. r Ditto. Ditto, ditto. The wefternrnoft point \ of Woahoo in fight N. W. | W. five y leagues. r Variable. Very light winds. The north ] point of Atoui N. W. eight or nine I leagues. 1 E b. N. Moderate and hazy. The eaft I point of Atoui E. b. N. five or fix leagues. ,E. S. E. Frefh breezes, and clear. At anchor in Yam Bay, at the ifland of Oneehow, § [B] x APPENDIX. T A B I, E III. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from the Sandwich Iflands to Cook's River. Time. 1786. June 14,7 Noon. 5 '5 16 17 18 19- 2C 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 July Latitude North. IO 24 14 25 26 27 28 3° 31 32 33 34 30 35 36 38 41 30 36 48 53 °5 04 30 18 57 59 l4 Longitude Weft. 38 5i 39 35 4° 39 20 42 50 44 °4 160 45 160 24 160 01 161 22 161 07 161 09 160 53 160 37 160 08 r59 25 158 51 l57 49 156 g l55 56 154 54 152 08 151 18 151 18 151 I: Variation Eaft. 12 13 r3 16 Winds» Weather, and Remarks. 15 48 N. E. Moderate and cloudy. The high A land on the S. W. part of Oneehow l bore S. E. b. S. £ E. ten leagues. f E. N. E. Moderate and clear. Many j ( birds of the tern kind about. f Ditto. Moderate and hazy. Saw many [ tropic birds. 00 E. b. N. Frefh breezes, and clear. 05 Ditto. Moderate and cloudy, with rain. 25 Eaft. Ditto, ditto. I Ditto. Moderate and pleafant. Saw three 1. whales. E. S. E. to S. S. E. Moderate and clear. South. Frefh gales, and hazy. Variable. Frefh breezes, and fqually. Ditto. Frefh gales, and hazy. Ditto. Strong gales, and fqually, with rain. N. W. b. W. Frefh gales, and cloudy. Variable. Frefh breezes, and hazy. rN. W. Frefh breezes, and cloudy, with a j head, fwell. r N. W. Frefh breezes, and hazy. Saw fe- | veral feals. fW. N. W. Frefh gales.,, and. thick foggy 1 weather. Several feals about the fhip. f W. S. W. Moderate and hazy. Paffed a 30-! piece of drift wood, and faw feveral {_ whales. J Ditto. Moderate, with thick foggy wea- \ ther, and rain at times. J South to W. S. W. A frefh gale, and very 1 f°ggy* Saw three whales. APPENDIX. » TABLE III. Continued. ff> Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from the Sandwich Iflands to Cook's River. Time. 1786. My 4» Noon. Latitude North. 1C II 12 Longitude Weft. 15 49 37 51 2C 150 OO H8 45 147 40 147 08 1.47 32 148 11 148 43 Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks.. 17 00 N. W. Frefh gales, and hazy. '" Ditto. Ditto, ditto, ditto. Saw feveral \ whales. t Ditto. A moderate hreeze, and hazy, and 1 a fwell from the northward. I N. W.'ito South. Light winds, and hazy. \ Variable* Frefh gales, and hazy. Saw ' 1 feveral wild ducks. S. W. Frefh gales, and hazy. Paffed a piece of fea weed, and faw a flock of duc&s.' S. W, to S. E. Frefh gales, with foggy and rainy weather. Paffed feveral pieces of the fea weed, and faw a flock of divers. Variable. A frefh gale, and foggy. Paffed feveral logs of wood, and pieces of fea weed. W. N. W. Moderate and hazy. Paffed feveral pieces of log wood, fea weed, and have feen feveral flocks of birds. i Variable. Light winds, with a thiek fog. Paffed vafl quantities of birds feathers. fWeft to S. b. E. Moderate and foggy. 3 Paffed feveral pieces of drift wood, and 1 faw vaft flocks of birds. S. W'. Moderate and hazy. Saw feveral whales, feals, birds, and pieces of wood, and fea weed. I . Xll APPENDIX. 'W, Ifl TABLE III. Continued. Route o/the King George and Queen Charlotte from the Sandwich Iflands to Cook's River. Time. 1786. July 1 m Noon. . 17 18 19 20 Latitude North. 58 13 58 23 58 29 Longitude Weft. 15° 31 M9 43 151 04 Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. • -' - J- • ^ \ Ditto. Fj < ftruck I fand, v 23 Frefh gales, and hazy. At 77 A.M. foundings 70 fathoms, light grey with black fpecks. f Variable. Frefh breezes, and hazy. At < 7 P. M. faw the land bearing N. [ W. t W. {Ditto. A frefh breeze, and hazy, with rain. The fouthernmoft land in fight S. W. twelve or thirteen leagues. ! Ditto. Frefh gales, with confiant rain. The weft point of the Barren Ifles N. N. E. two leagues. Eaft. Frefh gales, with frequent fqualls, and confiant rain. At 8^ P. M. came to an anchor in Cook's River. APPENDIX. xi a TABLE IV. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1786. Aug. 13, Noon. 16 7 IQ 9 25 28 Latitude North. 0 0 59 01 59 59 09 23 59 27 59 48 59 42 59 12 59 59 . 00 IO 59 15 58 P 57 47 59 12 58 59 26 00 59 15 Longitude Weft. Variation Eaft. ISO Ï1 H9 59 H9 19 148 30 148 24 148 24 148 OO 148 OO 146 39 146 03 146 05 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 24 3° 10 Variable. Light airs. The extremes of the Barren Ifles S. W. and S. 38° W. Cape Elizabeth N. 80 W. five or fix leagues. Ditto. Light winds, and hazy. Ditto. Thick hazy weather. N. W. b. N. to W. S. W. Light winds, and hazy. Soundings in 56 fathoms, mud and fand. Variable. Light winds. Saw the land bearing N. E. £ E. diftant about two leagues. Ditto. Light airs, and foggy. At anchor off the S. W. end of Montague Ifland in 43 fathoms, gravelly bottom. Variable. Light winds. At 67 P. M. weighed, and made fail. The land N. E. b. N. feven or eight miles. Eaft to N. E. Squally, with rain. N. E. Frefh gales, with thick rainy weather. Ditto. Ditto. Squally, and a heavy fea from the N. E. Ditto. Strong gales, and cloudy, with rain. Eaft. Moderate, with drizzling rain. Ditto. Light breezes, and foggy. At 4 P. M. faw Montague Ifland, bearing N. 460 W. E. N. E. Light winds, and foggy. Variable. Moderate and pleafant. N. E. Frefh breeze, and cloudy. Saw the land bearing W. 7 N* ll or I2 mi)es diftant. »,;■ II I w il JVfMl! j'iJfïn I ZmVfa APPENDIX. TABLE IV. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River along the Coafl, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1786. Aug. 29, Noon. Sept. 3° 31 1 2 Latitude North. SS 18 10 11 12 13 14 57 3° 30 58 58 58 54 58 49 58 18 58 5« 58 «20 16 17 n 43 57 33 57 54 18 57 00 56 49 56 37 57 °6 longitude Weft. I46 14 H5 38 144 57 HI 39 142 41 141 08 14° 33 140 28 140 03 139 4° 138 39 137 58 l37 47 l37 34 Variation Eaft. 24 133 08 I38 31 I36 40 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 1 l 00 E. N. E. Frefh gales, with rain. '; Variable. Frefh gales, and fqually, with £ drizzling rain at times. Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy. Ditto. Frefh breezes, and hazy. Variable. Moderate, wilth drizzling rain. ' North to S. S. E. Moderate and cloudy. Saw a fhark. Variable. Light winds, and cloudy. Ditto. Ditto, ditto, ditto, with rain, Ditto. Squally, with rain. S. E. to N. E. Frefh gales, and fqually, and a heavy fea from the eaftward. Variable. Frefh gales, and hazy. S. W. b. S. to S. E. b. E. Moderate and cloudy. The land in fight extending from E. N. E. to N. N. E. 7 E. A low point N. E. -7 E. four or five leagues. J Variable. Frefh gales, with thick drizzling 1 rain. f Ditto. Strong gales, and thick rainy wea- l ther, and a heavy fea from the S. E. Eafl. Strong gales, and very hazy weather. S.E. Frefh gales, and hazy, with rain, • and a heavy fwell from the S. E. S. W. Moderate and hazy. The land in fight. The eaftepamofl: part in fight S. E. b. E. -^ E. and the wefternmoft ditto N. W. diftance from thô neareift part two 1 < leagues. AfPENDgX. xv T A B L E IV. Continued. Route <sf the King George and Quees Charlotte' from Cook"*! River along the Coaft, attd from thence to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1786. Sept. 15,"? Noon. 3 36 18 20 21 22 24 25 Latitude North. Longitude Weft. 0 s 0 • 5^ se I38 02 5^ 55 S1 *37 54 l36 45 53 46 134 °6 5i 58 132 39 5* 09 130 36 5° 47 129 28 50 02 127 48 49 48 127 08 49 27 127 13 49 9 2 00 127 16 Var&ûq$' Éaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarfek 24 00 Variable. Strong gales, and hazy, with rain. Ditto. Frefh gales, and cloudy. Weft. A frefh gale, and cloudy. 'N.W. A frefh gale, with clear pleafant (| weather. Saw the land. Ditto. Frefh gales, and pleafant weather The neareft land in fight N, b. E. eleven I leagues. f Ditto. Frefh treezes, and pleafant, with a! ( long fwell frorfi tfce N. E. " W. N. W. Light winds, and clofe weather. Saw an ifland bearing from N. E. f E^ to N. E. b. E. f E. diftance about fix leagues. N. W. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. Woody Point N. b. W. three leagues, and the rock lying off the Point N. b. W. | W. two leagues. N. W. b. W. Moderate and rjltafant. The land in fight extending from E. b. S. to W. N. W. fW* diftance from the neareft part about four leagues. Variable. Unfettled weather. P. M. a canoe with two n&en in her came off to ^ the fhip. The .north point of King George's Sound N. E. fix leagues, and Breakers Point N. 86K£. 10 leagues. " Ditto. Light breezes, and cloudy. The north point of the found N. 630 E. about fix leagues diftant. ÉL _ i P >li WM\,.'A wi l*a|rjl*>M am Wmm I XVI APPENDIX, TABLE IV. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's .River along the Coaft, and foîînrthence to the Sandwich Iflands. Time* Latitude North. Longitude Weft?5 1786. 0 y O y Sept. 2 6, > Noon. J 49 -32 127 15 27 49 33 127 19 28 49- 32 127 II 1 29 49 12 Ï28 C7 30 47 55 129 15 Od. 1 47 S3 I3O 24 2 46 48 131 06 3 45 40 I3I 06 4 44 07 131 57 5 44 06 132 42 6 43 08 132 42 7 43 06 133 17 8 42 33 133 17 9 4i 49 l32 58 10 40 32 133 3i 11 39 27 r33 I2 12 38 44 133 16 Variation Eaft. 22 J9 l9 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Variable. Heavy gales, with thunder, lightning, and rain. Carried away both clews of our forefail. The land in fight bearing N. b. W. -IW five or fix leagues. Ditto. Squally unfettled weather, with frequent fhowers of hail and rain, and a heavy fwelî from the S. W. The north point of (the entrance into the found E. N. E. fix or feven leagues. Ditto. Moderate, with rain, The north point of the entrance N. 650 E. five leagues. !"W. N. W. A frefh gale, and cloudy. The 301 entrance of the found N. 380 E. 15 L leagues diftance. f S b. E. Light airs and hazy, with a heavy (. fwell from the N. W. Cleaned fhip. ÎW. N. W. Frefh gales, and cloudy. A C. head fea. 00 I Variable. Moderate and clear. I Weft. Moderate and foggy. W. b. N. to N. N. E. Ditto, ditto. >7 Variable. Light winds, and cloudy. Ditto. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. Ditto. Strong gales, and fqually. S. W. Squally, with lightning and rain, and a heavy fwell from the S. W. Ditto. Squally, with rain. Weft. Frefh gales, and cloudy. Variable. Frefh gales, and fqually, with a long fwell from the S. W. Ditto. Frefh gales, with rain. 1 1 12 APPENDIX. xvn TABLE IV. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's . River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands, Time. 1786. Od.13, ? Noon. 3 North. Latitude Longitude 14 37 OÎ 36 04 35 55 34 08 7± 26 22 Weft. Variation j Eait. j Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 34 20 135 °4 135 41. 136 22 24 25 00 33 22 141 32 142 16 143 35 144 12 32 57 32 36 32 24 32 08 31 05 29 49 29 04 N. W. b'. W. Frefh gales, and pleafant. ; Variable. Light winds, and cloudy. Caught a fhark. S. E. b. S. Light winds, and cloudy. J South. Moderate, and cloudy. Many I tropic birds about. Variable. Moderate, and cloudy. North. Ditto, ditto. C Variable. Frefh breezes, and clear. Tropic 11 î7\ birds and flying fifh about. fS.b.E. Frefh breezes, and cloudy, with I a fwell from the Southward. j Variable. A frefh gale, and hazy. Saw { fome tropic birds. J Ditto. Frefh breezes, and hazy. Caught I a dolphin. I S. S. E. Moderate and cloudy, with fogs I at times. \B. E. Moderate and hazy, with rain at times. S. S. E. A frefh breeze, with open cloudy weather. Caught a dolphin. Many tropic birds about. S. E. ï S. A frefh breeze, and hazy. ! 1 46 I S. S. E. Moderate, and hazy. {Variable. Light winds, and hazy. Cleaned * {hiP- \ ,11 j E. S. E. A frefh gale, and cloudy. fS. E. A frefh gale, and fqually. Saw a wh"1 aie. j Ditto. A frefh breeze, and hazy II il XV1U APPENDIX. TABLE IV. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River, along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1786. Nov. 1, Noon. 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 *9 Latitude North. IRdi 28 27 26 24 24 24 23 23 22 22 21 20 20 20 20 20 15 02 54 30 02 *5 01 47 52 3° 26 33 04 08 12 16 20 26 20 20 58 Longitude Weft. M8 35 14S 56 149 36 150 02 i5° 15 150 20 15° 56 150 55 151 00 15° 38 151 01 152 51 153 22 153 47 *54 35 l55 42 Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. o 12 m Eaft. Moderate and cloudy. A fwell from the S. E. E. b. S. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. Variable. Squally unfettled weather. Ditto. Ditto, ditto. Variable. Light winds, and pleafant weather. Ditto. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. E. S. E. Moderate and cloudy. Saw fome land birds. Many tropic birds about. Variable. Unfettled weather. Ditto. Strong gales and hazy, with rain. Ditto. Strong gales, and fqually, with lightning and heavy rain. Ditto. Frefh breezes, with rain. N. b. E. Moderate and pleafant. Caught a fhark. N. N. E. Ditto, ditto. E. S. E. Light winds, and hazy. Eaft. Ditto, ditto, ditto. Saw the land bearing S. W. 1 W. 12 or 13 leagues. E. S. E. Moderate. Clofe in fhore. Variable. Light winds, and hazy. Standing along fhore. Ditto. Moderate and pleafant. Diftance off fhore about three miles. Ditto. Strong gales, and cloudy. The S. W. end of Owhyhee fouth. Lights ning and rain. S. W. Frefh gales, with heavy rains. P. Mf hove-'o for a canoe with three men in. Hoifted her up, and took the men on board, they being very much fatigued. A P ii D I X. XIX. TABLE IV. , Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River, along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands. T ime. 1786. Nov. 21, Noon. 22 23 Latitude North. 21 10 I 07 21 ^32 2 1 32 Longitude Variation Weft. Eaft. 21 20 21 15 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. W. S. W. Frefh breezes, and fqually Mowee extending from S. S. E e E. to S. W. 1 S. diftance five leagues. f E. S. E. Light winds, and pleafant. The j weft end of-Mowee W. S. W. Variable. Light winds, and pleafant. The extremes of Morotoi S. ^E. and S.W. diftant from the neareft part fix leagues. j S. b. W. A frefh gale, and cloudy. The i eaft end of Mowee S. b. E. I E. { Variable. Light winds, and hazy. The I eaft point of Mowee S. 7 È. five leagues, f S. b. W. A frefh breeze, and clear. The I eaft point of Mowee S. S. E. | E. i' S. S. W. Moderate and clear. The extremes of Morotoi S.b.W.f W. and S.W. 7 W. fix or feven leagues diftance. k Variable. Light breezes, and fine. The eaft point of Morotoi S. W. 7 S. E. b. N. Light airs, and hazy. The ifland of Woahoo in fight bearing from W.S. W.-^W. to Weft. N. E. A frefh breeze, and hazy. The fouth point of Morotoi S. E. fN. E. A frefh breeze, and cloudy. At < five P. M. anchored in the bay in the L fouth end of Woahoo in nine fathoms. N. B. From this to the x 5th of March 1787, the veffels were at anchor, and off the iflands of Woahoo, Atoui, and Oneehow. V! 1 1 tiiljti1 XX APPENDIX. ■MFK' 'ill iii in hi T A B L E V. - Route of the Ki mg George and Queen Charlotte from the Sandwich Iflands to Prince William's Sound. Time. W. ude .Longitude Variation Winds, Weather, and Remarks. JNortn. Wei t. Eaft. , | 1787. 0 ' 0 • * I -S. E. b. E. Moderate breeze, and pleafant Mar. 15, i Noon. 1 J weather. The N. E. point of Atoui bore 2 1 3* m, 02 j N. W. 4 W. and the weflernmoft point [■ in fight W. b. N. 16 22 40 158 i58 35 1 S. S. E. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. \ South to W. b. N. Frefh breezes, and 1 cloudy, with rain. 17 24 24 *3 1 " Variable. Strong gales, with heavy rain J8 26 02 '57 52 h and thunder and lightning, and a heavy fea from the fouthward. 19 27 23 '57 47 t S. S. W. Frefh breezes, and fqually with rain. 20 28 28 47 56 l57 47 1 S. W. Moderate, and hazy, with rain. N. E. b. N. Light winds and hazy, and • a fwell from the N. W. 21 l57 5° 22 29 12 158 30 North. Moderate, and clear. 23 29 26 J59 CO ■ ' N. E. Light winds and cloudy, and a fwell I from the weftward. 24 31 2J *59 T 5 x3 Eaft. Frefh gales, with drkzling rain. 25 10 58 J59 01 S. E. Frefh gales, with cloudy weather. 26 35 04 158 11 ! i S. S. E. Frefh gales, with thick hazy weather. 27 36 02 158 08 S. S. W. Frefh breezes, and hazy. 28 37 20 *57 02 Ditto, ditto, and clear. 29 38 38 J55 55 S. S. W. A frefh breeze, and clear. 3° 39 35 x54 18 1 N. W. b. N. Strong gales and fqually, !. with fhowers of hail. 31 39 25 *53 45 N. N. W. Strong gales, and hazy. April 1 40 16 pfj S6 [■ S. S. E. A ftrong gale and cloudy, and a 1 heavy fwell from the N. N. W. 2 42 17 r52 01 c South. Frefh " gales and fqually, with I rain. f APPENDIX. xxi TABLE V. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from the Sandwich Iflands to Prince William's Sound. Time. 1787. April I Noon. Latitude North. Longitude Weft. Variation Eaft. 10 I I 12 14 15 48 j 50 04 I 2 I50 OO 46 57 J4 147 ID 147 17 147 2; H6 55 ;47 09 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 18 . 10 S. S. W. Strong gales with rain, and a heavy following fea. Saw a whale, anu feveral divers. S S. W. Frefh gales and fqually, wi h ( rain. 5 Variable. A frefh . breeze, and hazy. I Caught a porpoife. I Ditto. A ftrong gale, with rainy weather. 5 Caught a diver. r North. A frefh breeze and cloudy, with I fhowers of hail and fnow. r N. N. W. Frefh breezes and cloudy, with !| fnow. Paffed feveral pieces of fea weed. 1 From N. to S. b. W. Frefh breezes and hazy, with rain. Paffed fea weed, a feal, and a flock of gulls. S. W. b. S. A frefh breeze, with a thick fog. Paffed fea weed, drift wood, and a diver. r Variable. Thick foggy weather. Saw a I whale. W. S. W. A frefh gale, with fair weather. Paffed feveral patches of fea weed, and logs of wood. f Variable. Frefh gales, with fleet and fnow. { Saw feveral flocks of gulls. C-Ditto. Moderate and cloudy. Saw two ; whales, and a flock of gulls. W. S. W. A-frefh gale, and cloudy, with fhowers of fnow. Paffed drift wood, fea weed, whalesj_gulls, and divers. ii APPENDIX {W IJu T A B L E . V. Continued. , Route of the K33g George and Queen Charlotte from the Sandwich Iflands, to Prince William's Sound. Time. 1787. April 16,7 Noon, j j§ 18 19 20 21 23 24 25 Latitude North. 5» 10 58 25 59 13 57 4° 58 48 59 lI 59 °° 59 I][ 59 5o Longitude Weft. I47 l8 147 23 148 04 147 24 148, 29 148 40 149 02 I48 15 148 24 Variation Eaft. 19 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 00 Variable. Moderate and cloudy, with fhowers of fnow. r Ditto. Moderate and hazy, with fhowers \ of fnow at times. Saw a feal. S. S. W. Frefh gales, with drizzling rain ■j and fleet. Paffed feveral patches of fea weed. j W. b. S. Strong gales, and cloudy, with l fleet, and a heavy fea from the S. W. 5 Variable. Frefh breezes, with fnow. Saw I a large flock of wild geefe. J Eaft. Strong gales, with fnow and fleet. t Saw a flock of fhags. E. b. N. A frefh gale, with fleet and rain. Saw many whales, gulls, divers, fhags, and many other kinds of birds. Ç Variable. A frefh breeze, with fnow. I Many whales andl birds about- F Ditto. Frefh breezes, and hazy. The ex- < tremes of Montague Ifland È. b. S. five (. miles, and N. b. E. 4 E. four leagues. j Variable. At anchor in Prince William's t Sound from this to July 31, 1787. 8 APPENDIX. XXI ù TABLE VI. Route of the King George (after parting Company) from Prina William's Sound to Portlock's Harbour. Time. 1787. July 31»? Noon. 5 Aug. 1 Latitude North. Longitude Weft. 0 é a j 59 27 59 03 147 15 58 49 I44 09 57 59 I41 02 57 12 I38 20 57 23 I38 07 57 48 136 35 Variation Eaft. 27 OO Winds, Weather, and Remarks. W. S. W. Light airs, and hazy. S. b. W. Moderate and cloudy. j S. E. Strong gales, with thick rainy wea- 1 ther. S Variable. A frefh breeze, and cloudy, and 1 a heavy fea from the S. W. \ S. b. W. A frefh breeze, and pleafant wea- l ther. 1 {Variable. Very light airs, and clear. The land in fight. A high mountain bearing N. N. W. I W. diftance 25 or 30 leagues. N. W. Frefh breezes, and> clear pleafant weather. At anchor in Portlock's Harbour from this to the 23d of Auguft 1787., m 1 £ Mm P E N D I X. TABLE VIL Route of the King George from Portlock's Harbour to the Sandwich Iflands. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Variable. Light winds, and pleafant. Mount Fair Weather bearing N. W. b. N. leagues. \ S. E. Moderate, with thick rain, and a I head fwell. Ç S. W. b. W. A frefh breeze, with a thick f fog and rain. oo | W. b. S. Strong gales, with drizzling rain N. W. Strong gales, and fog, with drizzling rain. Saw feveral whales. rWeft. Frefh gales, with drizzling rain. < Paffed a feal, feveral logs of wood, and c patches of fea. weed. N. b. W. A frefh gale, and hazy. North. A frefh breeze, and cloudy. N. N. W. Moderate and hazy. Variable. Moderate and cloudy. many birds about. Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy. a fhark and two bonitos. S S. W. Moderate and fair. Saw two Arc tic gulls. Variable. Squally, with rain. Weft. A frefh breeze, and clear. Variable. Moderate and pleafant. N. W. Moderate and fair. N. b. W. Moderate and hazy. N. E. b. E. Ditto, and clear. c E. N. E. Moderate breezes, and clofe wea t ther. N. b. E. A frefh breeze, and hazy. A great Caught APPENDIX. xxv TABLE VII. Continued. Route of the King George from Portlock's Harbour to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. i787. N« 16 27 29 Latitude North. Longitude Weft. 0 y 0 j 29 51' l36 59' 28 28 27 56 if 51 137 11 137 26 137 35 26 42 136 25 25 48 136 12 24 49 i36 33 23 22 137 27 21 54 139 l8 20 20 20 20 19 37 IC 02 49 14° 55 143 °7 H5 15 147 3C 149 03 20 °5 r5- 32 20 °3 20 12 Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Saw 5 Variable. Light winds, and pleafant. I feveral tropic birds. N. N. E. Light winds, and clear. Variable. Light winds, and cloudy. Ditto. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. S. W. b. W. A frefh breeze, and open cloudy weather, and a fwell from the weftward. 9 45 ! W. b", S. Moderate, and cloudy. JN. W. Ditto, ditto, and a fwell from the I N. W. j N. E. b. N. A frefh breeze, arid clear. 5N. E. A frefh gale and fqually, with rain. E. N. E. A frefh gale, and cloudy. 8 00 Ditto. A frefh breeze^ and hazy. E. N. E. A frefh gale, and cloudy. Ditto, ditto, ditto, and hazy. E. N. E. A frefh gale, and cloudy. i Ditto. A frefh gale, and hazy- Many ) tropic birds and land birds about. E. b. N. Moderate and clear, with a long following feà. The ifland of Owhyhee in fight, the eaft point bearing S. b. W. JL W. diftance about twelve or fourteen leagues. : Variable. Squally unfettled weather. Five 1 miles off fhore. Eaft. Moderate and cloudy. Caught two fharks. Diftance off fhore four or five miles. [D] 'N'I. «if XXVI APPENDIX. TABLE VII. Continued. Route of the King George from Portlock's Harbour to th& Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1787. Sept.30,? Noon, J oa. t Latitude North. Longitude • Weft. 0 ï 0 i \ 21 58 21 51 "Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. E. b. N. Moderate and cloudy, the fouth point of the ifland of Mowee W. S. W. Variable. Squally, with fhowers of rain. The extremes of Morotoi S. S W. and S. E. b. E. -7 E. Diftance from the neareft part about feven leagues. E. b. N. Moderate and fair. The extremes of Woahoo S. 380 E. and S. 730 E. From thé neareft part eight leagues. Variable. Moderate, and fair. Atooi from E. b. N. to N. N. E. Town of Wymoa N. E. b. E. four leagues. Variable. Light airs. At anchor in Yam Bay in the ifland of Oneehow, from this to the 8th of October 1787. APPENDIX. XXVU •'"/%-■' TABLE VIII. jp;" ., . :% .Route of the King George from the Sandwich Iflands to China. Time. 1787» 0&. 8,7 Noon. 5 13 *9 20 21 24 Latitude North. 13 46 r3 4s r3 28 Longitude Weft. 166 39 168 37 184 45 Variation Eaft. 00 ■< 9 3° Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Eaft. A frefh gale, and pleafant weather. \ È. N. E. Moderate, and clear. Eaft. A frefh breeze, and hazy. Saw a tern. Ditto. A frefh gale, with rain. E. N. E. A frefh gale, and cloudy.- N. E. b. E. A frefh gale and hazy, with a following fea. Saw feveral tern. \ E. N. E. A frefh gale and cloudy, with a heavy following fwell. Ditto. A frefh breeze, and cloudy. f E. b. N. Moderate and cloudy, and a fol- | lowing fwell. f Ditto. A moderate gale and fqually, with <* ^l rain. C Variable. Frefh gales- and fqually, with! 1 rain. f E. b. N. Moderate, and cloudy. Caughtj I a land bird of the plover kind. Î Variable. Squally unfettled weather, with rain, and fharp lightning in the fouthern and weftern boards. r Ditto. Moderate, and clear. Saw two j tropic birds. r E. S. E. Light winds, and cloudy, with a* j fwell from the N. E. j E. N. E. Light winds, and fair weather. 3 Ditto. A fine breeze, and cloudy. Many 54 tropic birds about, and faw two land birds. [D] 2 I XXVUi APPENDIX. TABLE VIII. Continued. Route of the King George from the Sandwich. Iflands to China. Time. 1787 oa. 25, Noon 26 27 28 29 •3° 31 Nov. 1 2 Latitude North. Longitude Weft; ' 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 13 34 *3 44 13 26 iff 24 13 30 13 20 13 29 13 29 *3 42 14 29 15 i2 16 00 16 58 17 30 17 52 J8 33 19 08 194 00 Variation Eaft. 195 38 r97 °5 '99 °3 200 51 202 30 203 56 207 s 1 20g 08 211 36 214 07 216 35 219 10 221 37 223 48 226 13 228 2Q Winds, Weather, and Remarks. f E. b. N. Squally, with frequent fhowers \ of rain. Saw a booby. Ç Variable. Squally, with rain at times. 1 Caught a noddy. Eaft. Moderate, and cloudy. 11 74. E. N. E. Ditto, ditto. ' Eaft. Moderate and cloudy, but fqualls -[ at times, with rain, and lightning in the fouthern board. I.E..N. E. Moderate, and hazy. 10 87 N. E. b. E. Ditto, and cloudy. 8 12 N. E. Moderate, and fair. f Variable. Frefh breezes and fqually, with jjj rain. Saw a duck. ■ ' N. E. Frefh gales, and fair pleafant wea- | ther. N. E. b. N. Frefh gales, and hazy. The ifland of Tinian, one of the Ladrones,, 7 ib <( in fight, extending from S. 300 E. to S. 6o° E. Our diftance from the weft point about 10 leagues. J N. E. A frefh gale, and cloudy, with rain I at times. j N. E. b. N. A frefh gale, and clear. N. E, A frefh gale and cloudy, with light fqualls, and rain at times. .... j N. E. A frefh gale, and fair pleafant wea- { ther. J N. E. b. E. A frefh breeze, and fair. Saw ( many tropic birds. N. E. A frefh gale, and cloudy, with fqualls at times. A P P E N; D ï :x^ XXIX .TABLE VIII. Continued. - Route of the King George from the Sandwich Iflands to China. Time. 1787. Nov, 11,| Noon. 5 12 Latitude North. ig 42 20 30 21 10 14 19 Longitude Weft. 23I 08 233 04 237 06 22 10 238 05 22 08 240 26 Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. N. E. A frefh gale, and fair, with a very heavy fwell from the northward. S N. N. E. Strong gales, and fair, with al : heavy fea from the northward. ' N. E. b. N. Strong gales, and cloudy. rN. E. b. E. Frelh gales, and cloudy. P. M. palled the Bafhee Iflands. At noon the ifland of Bptel Tobago Xima bore from W. N. W. to W. about four leagues diftant. A heavy fea from the N. E. N. E. b. N. A frefh breeze, and. hazy, with frequent puffs off the land. The fouth point of the ifland of Formofa E. b. S. five leagues, and the north part in fight N. b. W. 4. W. four leagues. S N. b. E. Strong gales, and hazy, with a I heavy fea from the northward. \ N. N. E. Strong gales, and hazy. Sound- ! ed 20 fathoms. Light grey fand. f North.. Moderate, and hazy. The ifland j of Pedro Blanco N. E. b. N. four miles. : Soundings in 24 fathoms, muddy fand. A. M. took a pilot on board out of a fifhing-boat. N. N. E. A frefh breeze, and hazy, with rain at times. The Grand Lama in fight, bearing S. E. b. S. 13 or 14 miles. XXX APPENDIX. TO Sr, Km TABLE VIII. Continued. Route of the HLfng ISeorge from the SamrMâch Iflands to China. Time. i787. Nov»2o," Noon, i North. Latitude Longitude 21 22 10 Weft. Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks*; North. Light winds, and cloudy. At 5 P. M. came-to, the ifland of Macao bearing We|l, in 8-J- fathoms, muddy bottom. At 6 A. M. weiglied ; and at § paft 10 A. M. came-to again, with the beft bower, in nine fathoms muddy bottom, Macao bearing N. W. IN. five or fix leagues. North. Light breezes, and fair. At 1 P. M. weighed, and made fail towards Macao. And at f jpaft 4 came-to in Macao Roads, with the beft bower, in 4 ~ fathoms, muddy bottom. The peak of Lantoon E. b. N. APPENDIX. XXXI T A B L E IX. H Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China, to parting Company off Java Head. Time. Latitude North. Longitude Weft. 1788. O r O • Feb. 1*0,? Noon. 5 21 37 246 21 11 20 02 246 cg± 12 18 55 246 084 13 18 01 24^ 35t H 17 44 246 17^ 15 16 m 16 32 15 3i H 23 245 56 246 01: 246 43 18 ,3 01 247 28 *9 11 40 248 36 20 10 oit 25° 35 21 22 23 8 42 7 °3 5 2« 252 17 253 20 254 17 24 4 °9 254 21 Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 17 46 52 59 Variable. Frefh breezes, and fine weather. At f paft 9 A. M. the S. E. end of the Grand Ladrone bore N. E. § N. eight leagues. 5 N. E. to E. Frefh breezes, and fine wea- t ther. \ E. b. S. Frefh breezes, and open cloudy ( weather. f S. E. to E. Moderate breezes, and fair. ^ At | paft 7 A. M. faw a ftrange fail to I the N. E. flanding to the fouth. Variable. Moderate, and cloudy. P. M. fpoke the fail we faw this morning ; fhe is called the Lowden, Captain Berkely, from Macao, bound to the Mauritius. E. N. E. Moderate, and cloudy. N. E. to E. Moderate breezes, and clear. Variable. Frefh breezes, and hazy. j N. E. b. N. to E. N. E. Moderate breezes, I and fair. r N. E. b. N. A frefh breeze, and cloudy, t with a following fea. i Ditto. A frefh gale, with fine weather. The ifland of Pulo Sapata in fight S. W. ) b. W. Ê W. two or three miles diftance. and a fmall rock in one with Sapata N. W. b. W. I W. N. E. Frefh breezes, and clear. Ditto. Frefh gales, and hazy. N. E. b. E. toE. Moderate breezes, and fair. E. N. E. Moderate, and clear. Paffed a large piece of drift wood. t« M XXXll APPENDIX. TABLE IX. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China, to parting Company off Java Head. Time. 1788. Feb. 25,? Noon, i 26 27 28 29 March 1 Latitude Longitude J Variation North. Weft. Eaft. 2 35 1 11 o 11 I II 2 12 254 26 254 45 254 25 250 40 254 42 254 5 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. È. N. E. to N. N. E. Moderate breezes j and hazy. The fouth point of the ifland of ^ Anamba in fight E. N. Ei diftant ten or eleven leagues ; and the ifland of Pulo d'Omai N. E. b. N. four leagues. N. N. E. Light winds, and clofe weather. The ifland of Pulo Panjang in fight, the fouth point bearing S. W. 7 S. defiance about fix leagues. r N. E. to N. N. E. Light winds, and clear. J The eafternmoft point of the Damonis [ Iflands in fight, W. 4 S. nine leagues. N. N. E. Moderate, with lightning. At 11 AM. fpoke the Queen Charlotte, when Captain Dixon informed us his furgeon was dead. The extremes of the three iflands in fight, N. E. b. E. è E. and S. E. b. E. | E. Diftant from the neareft part four leagues. Iflands off the north point of Banca S. S. W. 11 leagues N. N. E. Moderate, and cloudy. N. to N.N. E. Frefh breeze, and clear. The north point of Banco in fight N. W. b. N. Sumatra extending from S. W. ^ S. to S. E. b. E. I E. four leagues. Variable. Frefh gales, with rain. At 1 paft 1 P. M. paffed a fhoal bearing from Mount Monopin S. E. b. S. four or five leagues. At 7 P. M. came-to in eleven fathom s water, muddy bottom. At 5 A. M. weighed, and made fail. The 2d point on the Sumatra fhore W. 4 N. five miles. IL APPENDIX. XXX1U TABLE IX. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China, to parting Company ofl' Java Head, Time. 1788. Mar. 2, Noon. Latitude South. 3 9 Longitude Weft. 253 56 4 *7 4 3.9 Variation j Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. < < 'Variable. Light winds, with heavy rain. At 3 P. M. paffed a Dutch man of war lying at anchor. The ift point on the Sumatra fhore S. E. L S. Spoke the Lanfdown Indiaman, Captain Storey. At 7 P. M. came-to in eleven fathoms mud. At 5 A. M. weighed, and made fail. Lufepara S. E. four leagues. Ditto. Light winds, and fultry. At 6 P. M. the Lanfdown ftruck on a fhoal, and ftuck faft. Anchored in 57 fathoms, and fent boats to affift the Lanfdown. South point of Sumatra S. b. Y/, f W. three leagues. At 3 A. M. got the Lanfdown into deep water without any da mage. { Ditto. Light airs, and hazy. Half paft P.M. weighed, and came to fail ; Sumatra extending from N. W. | N. to S. W. | S. . Ditto. Light airs, with calms. During thefe 24 hours, feveral times under weigh. Ditto. Light airs, with rain. P. M. weighed, and came to fail. At 11 P.,M. anchored in nine fathoms muddy bottom. Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy, withfharp lightning. At 3P.M. weighed", and made fail, Sumatra bearing from S. W. b. W. 4 W. to W. I S. fix leagues. At 1 A. M. anchored in ten fathoms water. Weighed, and made fail at 8 o'clock, and anchored at 11 A. M. Sumatra N. W. 7 N. to W N- W. fix leagues- _ ! Ml m I xxxiy APPENDIX. TABLE IX. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China, to parting Company off Java Heach Time. t - QQ 17»». Latitude South. Mar. 8, ? Noon, i Q IO II 12 4 54 4 55 S 04 5 °7 5 26 Longitude Weft. Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks i L [Variable. Light airs, and cloudy. At 2 P. M. weighed and ftood to; the fouth- ward. At 7 came-to in 11 fathoms, the Sifters bearing South. At 8 A. M. weighed and made fail, the Sifters from S. W. b. S. to S. W. 7 S. 7 miles. Ditto. Frefh gales and fqually, with rain. At 1 P.M. anchored in 13 fathoms water. At 3 weighed, and made fail. At 6 frefh gales and fqually, carne-to in 13,, fathoms. The Sifters S. b. W. 5 miles, and a high ifland to the Weftward of the Sifters S. S. W. fix leagues. Ditto. Light winds, ana' fultry. At 1 P. M. weighed and made fail. At 7- paft 6 came-to in 10 fathoms. The Sifters S. b. E. f E. and S. S. E. j E. two miles. From S. b. E. to S. W. Moderate and cloudy. Half paft 3 P. M. weighed and made fail. At | paft 5 came-to in 11 fathoms. The Sifters S. E. b. E. two miles. At | paft 6 A. M. weighed and made fail. At 10, anchored in 11 fathoms water, the Sifters bearing E. b. S. ■ {.two miles. Variable. Moderate, and hazy. At 7 A. M. weighed and made fail. At noon, North Ifland S. S. W. feven miles. Cape St. Nicholas S. b. E. eight leagues, four miles from the Sumatra fhore. A P P E N E* I X. 'XXXV TABLE IX. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Chi to parting Company off Java Head. na. Time. 1788. Mar. 13,' Noon. H»' 15 16 Latitude South. 24 25 Longitude Weft. 6 23 6 35 Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Tt < < From N. to N. W. Squally, with rain. At 2 P. M. came-to in 11 fathoms, North Ifland S. b. W. | W. five miles: At 5 A. M. weighed and made fail. At 8 moderate and cloudy. North Ifland S. b. W. if mile. At 10 anchored on theSumatrafhore in 34- fathoms. Warped off into 17 fathoms, and made fail. N. N. W. Light winds, with frequent fqualls and rain. At 3 P. M. anchored in eight fathoms. North Ifland N. N. E. three miles. Found feveral Dutch veffels riding at anchor. Employed wooding and watering. Variable. Cloudy, with fqualls and rain. At 8 A. M. weighed and got under fail. From this to the 23d, working up to Cracatoa, where we filled our water. Ditto. Squally, with rain. At half paft 4 A. M. moderate and fair, weighed and made fail. At noon Prince's Ifland from S. W. to S. W. b, W. four leagues, and the Peak of Cracatoa N. b. W. fix leagues. W. N. W. to N. W. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. At 4 P. M. Prince's Ifland from S. W. b. W. to W. N. W. three leagues. At 8 anchored in 35, fathoms, muddy bottom. North point of Prince's Ifland W. b. S. five leagues. South point of Java S. W. ft At 5 A. M. weighed and made fail. At noon the north point of Prince's Ifland N. W. b. W. 7 W. four leagues. [E] 2 ■ &i if ft ui XXXVI APPENDIX. TABLE IX. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China, to parting Company off Java Head. Time. 1788. Mar. 26,7 Noon, I 27 28 29 3° Latitude South. Longitude Weft. 0 | 0 \ 6 42 7 47 8 S9 254 25 254 56 10 15 255 23 11 09 255 39 Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Variable. Moderate breezes, and fair weather. Half paft 6 P. M. came-to in 40 fathoms muddy bottom. The fouth point of Prince's Ifland S. W. % W. four leagues, and the fouth point of Java S. W. b. S. fix leagues. At 8 A. M. weighed and came to fail. At noon a frefh gale and hazy. Java Head S. b. W. four miles. N. W. to W. N. W. Frefh gaîes and cloudy. N. W. Frefh gales, and hazy. From N. to N. W. Squally, with rain. Saw a fail in the N. E. quarter. N. E. Light breezes and hazy. Spoke the Queen, Douglas, from China, all well. This day agreed to part company with the Queen Charlotte. APPENDIX. XXXVIl T A B L E|X. Route of the King George (after parting Company with the Queen Charlotte) to St. Helena. Time. 1788. Mar.31. Noon. April 19 22 Latitude South. 37 02 54 21 58 !4 4 24 5« 5 Longitude Weft. 256 28 A.L 296 299 Variation Weft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 4 3' 6 302 19 15 x Eafterly. Light winds, and fair weather. E. N. E. Moderate, and cloudy. E. S. E. Frefh gales, and cloudy. Ditto. Ditto, ditto. Ditto. Frefh breezes, and fine weather. Eaft. Ditto, ditto. Eafterly. Frefh gales, and cloudy. Ditto. Ditto, and fair weather. Ditto. Moderate breezes, and cloudy. Eaft to N. E. Frefh breezes, and hazy. Eafterly. Squally, with rain. E. S. E. Frefh breezes, and cloudy weather. Ditto. Ditto, and fine weather. E. b. S. Moderate, and ditto. E. S. E. Frefh gales, and clear. Ditto. Moderate, and clear. S. E. Light winds, and fine weather. S. S. E. Frefh breezes, and clear. A fwell from the S. W. S. b. E. Frefh gales, and hazy. S. E. Moderate wind, and cloudy. A fwell from the S. W. E. N- E. Moderate, and clear. Northerly. Frefh gales, and cloudy weather. Variable. Moderate, and hazy. S. S. W. Frefh gales, and cloudy. A heavy fea from the fouthward. Variable. Frefh gales, and open cloudy weather. S. S. E. Moderate breezes, and fine weather. XXXV111 A P P E N D I X. TABLE X. Continued. Route of the King George (after parting Company with the Queen Charlotte) to St. Helena. Time. 1788. April 26,7 Noon. 5 27 28 20 May Latitude South. 26 26 30 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 27 28 28 29 29 29 28 29 3° 3i 32 33 33 15 07 38 16 <6 46 53 45 40 °3 32 01 Longitude Weft. 11 66 20 24 34 2; 35 04 35 06 35 47 304 08 306 26 308 34 3*i l3 312 56 3*4 55 315 4i 317 03 318 46 321 15 322 43 325 09 326 36 328 39 329 52 33° 34 333 39 33 03 136 48 Variation Weft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. i S. S. E. Frefh gales and clear. Variable. Ditto, ditto. _ Eaft. Ditto, ditto. V Ditto. Ditto, ditto. Strong lightning to I the S. W. E. b. N. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. Variable. Ditto, and cleser weather. Ditto. Moderate, and hazy. S. W. Squally, with rain. ; S. b. W. Frefh gales, and cloudy weather, with a heavy fea. South. Frefh gales, and clear. Variable. Moderate, and cloudy. J N. b. E. Moderate breezes, and clear wea- | ther. f Variable. Frefh gales and fqually, with I lightning. j Ditto. Frefh gales, and cloudy weather. Ç Ditto. Ditto, and fqually. Tried found- 7 ings with 1 oo fathoms line. No ground. {Variable. Light airs, with calms and cloudy weather. A heavy fwell from the W. S. W. S Ditto. Frefh breezes, and clear. Saw high 1 land bearing N. W. 27 leagues. f E. N. E. Moderate breezes, and clear. -| Land in fight from N. b. E. f E. to [ N. b. W. 20 leagues. N. E. Light breezes, and clear. The land in fight North 18 leagues. Paffed feveral ftrong riplings of a current. A P P N D I X. xxxa-x TABLE X. Continued. Route of the King George (after parting Company with the Queen Charlotte) to St. Helena.. T imt 1788. May 15. Noon. 16 Latitude South. 28 29 35 46 36 20 35 47 35 25 35 53 35 43 35 47 Longitude Weft. 339 13 339 24 339 °2 338 38 338 38 339 55 340 27 Variation Weft. 35 22,340 51 35 28 341 15 34 46 34 °3 3i 43 29 45 28 01 342 25 43 37 348 3 350 13 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. N. N. E. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. Saw j a large feal, and numbers of gulls and {■ ' ganets. (Variable. Strong gales, and fqually. Saw f a fail in the N. W. quarter. \ Ditto. Very ftrong gales, and fqually. \ Lay-to. S W. b. N. Fre^h gales, and cloudy. Saw I large flocks of gulls and ganets. Variable. Frefh breezes, and hazy weather. J N. W. Moderate and cloudy, r Variable. Ditto, ditto. Paffed a large piece of wood covered with barnacles. Paffed through a ftrong ripling of a current. 1 j Variable. Frefh gales, and cloudy weather. N. W. b. W. Frefh breezes, and fqually. I Wefterly. Ditto, and open cloudy wea- < ther. Saw a fail to the fouthward fland- f ing to the northward. Variable. Moderate and cloudy. A fhip in fight. Hoifts a French jack at the mizen-topmaft-head. S Ditto. Light winds, and clear. Manypor- t poifes. j Ditto. Moderate, and hazy, r Northerly. Frefh gales, with rain. Great I numbers of Albetrofles. J Variable. Frefh breezes, and fqually, with j lightning and rain, j S. W. Frefh gales, and fine weather. ! S. S. E. Ditto, and fqually. j xl APPENDIX. T A BLE X. Continued. Route of the King George (after parting Company with the Queen 1 Charlotte) to St. Helena. Time Latitude Longitude Variation Winds, Weather, and Remarks. '! bou tn. Weft. Weft. 1788. June 1 Noon. 0 26 36 0 ^ 35 ï 36 f S. E. Frefh breezes, and cloudy weather. X A vafl: quantity of porpoifes about. 2 25 34 352 41 S. b. E. Moderate, and cloudy. 3 24 44 353 26 Variable. Light winds, and cloudy. 4 23 5° 352 49 Ditto. Ditto, and clear weather. 5 N2 30 352 l8 Northerly. Frefh breezes, and clear. 6 21 21 353 5i Southerly. Ditto, and hazy weather. i 20 09 35S 24 S. E. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. 8 357 58 j 1 S. S. E. Ditto, ditto. A heavy fwell from ' j, the fouthward. '9 00 9 ii 52 359 J° S. E. Frefh breezes, and cloudy weather. 10 16 30 360 38 Ditto. Ditto, ditto. 11 '5 55 363 16 365 3° Ditto. Ditto, dit|o. S. E. b. E. Ditto, ditto. At noon faw St. \ Helena bearing W. S. W. three leagues. 1 At 5 P. M. anchored in the road in 13 it n 55 < 1 fathoms water. JI THE END. i > *k -■ i- ^ JT '^ up ni- ]; "' i-t| «ill c Horrifiai le JEû?tp9?ltlâe/uri, KiCtlfo . Jp££.6£ètÀeè£ June /J./J89. ây Jr.Sé2?cÂ€àt/^l£-Q.Gtm^£ric/. £ïteïà&(la)rôfà« ][>■.. -^f PiUrùMbL Jiùt»y7. /"/$& ùy I.StcckdaÙ- <£ G-. (rocddlrbg. Sketch oï pom etches ■â?Tpr^Ac<r woâ4y A Sketch oï Baooacs hatxbqtjr. '^- -BIT ~J2AQJÂ}-//f^rÙ^A J^(rrn^7>*zaàèl/hn..'S(y^i,. Ju£&fÂecù fane 4frjtj&a by fSttTc/c^^Ue-ScG-.fffftcÙ/trtf-
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Vancouver : University of British Columbia Library
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London : George Goulding
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Original Format: University of British Columbia. Library. Rare Books and Special Collections. FC3821.1 .P6 1789
King George (Ship)
Queen Charlotte (Ship)
Voyages around the world
Fur trade--Northwest, Pacific
Northwest Coast of North America
A voyage round the world; but more particularly to the north-west coast of America : performed in 1785, 1786, 1787, and 1788, in the King George and Queen Charlotte, Captains Portlock and Dixon. Embellished with twenty copper-plates. Dedicated, by permission, to His Majesty
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