"CONTENTdm"@en . "Annual report of the Okanagan Historical and Natural History Society"@en . "Report of the Okanagan Historical Society"@en . "Annual report of the Okanagan Historical Society"@en . "Okanagan history"@en . "Stories of Okanagan history"@en . "Okanagan Historical Society Annual Reports"@en . "Okanagan Historical Society"@en . "2013-06"@en . "1980"@en . "https://open.library.ubc.ca/collections/ohs/items/1.0132231/source.json"@en . "220 pages"@en . "application/pdf"@en . " Forty-fourth Report 0KA1VAGA1V HISTOftlC&L SOCIETY s*\"** % \u00C2\u00BB\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\u00E2\u0096\u00A0*' ^SO^.' ^*fsl I'v^'ii?.11* PENTICTON (RN. Atkinson) MUSEUM 785 MAIN STREET 1 PENTICTON, B.C. V2A5E3 FORTY-FOURTH ANNUAL REPORT ISSN-0317-0691 of the OKANAGAN HISTORICAL SOCIETY Founded Sept. 4,1925 COVER PHOTOS This year's cover illustrates two of the historic trails over the mountains from the Fraser Canyon into the Okanagan. The Hope and Hudson Bay Trails, along with the Whatcom, Dewdney, Blackeye's and others are threatened with obliteration from proposed logging operations in the near future. Our lead article, \"The Proposed Cascade Wilderness,\" by H. R. Hatfield, outlines the case for preserving this area for future generations. Both the Okanagan Historical Society and the Okanagan Similkameen Parks Society, along with many other individuals and organizations, actively support this proposal. We are indebted to Mr. Victor Wilson for his beautiful photography of this region. \u00C2\u00A9 1980 Lithographed in Canada WAYSIDE PRESS LTD. 2 FORTY-FOURTH REPORT OF THE OKANAGAN HISTORICAL SOCIETY EDITOR Carol Abernathy PRODUCTION MANAGER Victor Wilson EDITORIAL COMMITTEE Ruby Lidstone, Armstrong-Enderby Beryl Gorman, Vernon Marie Wastradowski, Kelowna David MacDonald, Penticton Dolly Waterman, Oliver-Osoyoos-Oroville Individuals wishing to subscribe to the Report of the Okanagan Historical Society may have their name added to our mailing list. The Report will be sent each year and the subscriber invoiced. Back issues of Reports 27, 31, 32, 40, 41, 42, and 43 may be obtained from the Okanagan Historical Society at $5.00 per copy. Mail orders add $1.00 postage and handling. Reprints of Reports 1 - 5 are also available. A charge of $1.50 will be made plus 50 Lee Christensen EDITOR Carol Abernathy DIRECTORS Armstrong-Enderby: J. A. Gamble, R. Nitchie; Vernon: K. Ellison, P. Tassie Kelowna: D. Buckland, F. Pells Penticton: M. Orr, M. Broderick Oliver-Osoyoos: D. Corbishley, H. Weatherill DIRECTORS-AT-LARGE H. Hatfield, G. D. Cameron BRANCH OFFICERS, 1980 - 81 ARMSTRONG-ENDERBY BRANCH EXECUTIVE PAST PRESIDENT: Jack Armstrong; PRESIDENT: Bill Whitehead; VICE-PRESIDENT: Jim Sutherland; SECRETARY-TREASURER: Ruby Lidstone; DIRECTORS TO THE PARENT BODY: Jessie Ann Gamble, Bob Nitchie; DIRECTORS TO THE LOCAL BODY: Merle Armstrong, Moyreen McKechnie; EDITORIAL COMMITTEE: Ruby Lidstone, Lil Sutherland, Jessie Ann Gamble, Bob Nitchie. KELOWNA BRANCH EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT: Walter Anderson; VICE-PRESIDENT: Tilman Nahm; DIRECTORS: Anna Bach, Doug Buckland, Paddy Cameron, Bill Cameron, Eric Chapman, Don Fillmore, Dick Hall, David Hobson, Bert Johnston, Frank Pells, W. Mackenzie, Len Piddocke, Hume Powley, John Schinnick, Ursula Surtees, Maurice Williams, Marie Wostradowski, Dorothy Zoellner, Tilman Nahm, Bob Hayes, Bob Marriage; SECRETARY: Dick Hall; TREASURER: Bob Marriage; EDITORIAL COMMITTEE: Marie Wostradowski (Chairperson), Anna Bach, Don Fillmore, Bert Johnston, Maurice Williams, Dorothy Zoellner; DIRECTORS TO THE PARENT BODY: Doug Buckland, Frank Pells. VERNON BRANCH EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT: Ron Robey; TREASURER: Jock Henniker; SECRETARY: Vacant this date; DIRECTORS: Beryl Gorman, Dr. H. Campbell-Brown, Peter Tassie, Bert Thorburn, Don Weatherill, Mike Parson, Edna May Seright, C. D. (Bill) Osburn, Doug Scott, Ollie Goldsmith, Beryl Wamboldt, Walter Cowan, Ken Ellison; REPRESENTATIVES TO THE PARENT BODY: Ken Ellison, Peter Tassie; EDITORIAL COMMITTEE: Beryl Gorman (Chairperson), Ray Banner, Frances Leng, Anna Cail, Marguerite Hodgson, Beryl Wamboldt and Margaret Wills. PENTICTON BRANCH EXECUTIVE HONORARY PRESIDENT: Mrs. W. R. Dewdney; PRESIDENT: Victor Wilson; SECRETARY: Jack Riley; TREASURER: Peter Bird; DIRECTORS: Mollie Broderick, Hugh Cleland, Richard Cooper, Francis Crawford, Jim Crawford, Bob Gibbard, Carl Harris, Joe Harris, Dave MacDonald, Mary Orr, Don Steele, Angie Waterman, Pete Watson, Grace Whitaker; EDITORIAL COMMITTEE: Dave MacDonald (Chairperson), Kathleen Dewdney, Lydia Baumbrough, Helen Reith, Dorothy Whittaker; DIRECTORS TO THE PARENT BODY: Mary Orr, Mollie Broderick. OLIVER-OSOYOOS BRANCH EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT: Carleton MacNaughton; VICE-PRESIDENT: Hank Lewis; SECRETARY: Mrs. Dorothea Lewis; TREASURER: Mrs. Ermie Iceton; Executive: Mrs. Buddie MacNaughton, Ivan Hunter, Mrs. Aileen Porteous, Bob and Dorothy Iverson, Edna and Harry Weatherill, Elsie and Don Corbishley, Mrs. Retta Long, Mrs. Kate Willson, Mrs. Emily McLennan, Mrs. Stanley Dickson; HISTORIAN: Miss Dolly Waterman; DIRECTORS TO THE PARENT BODY: Don Corbishley, Harry Weatherill. EDITOR'S FOREWORD This year's volume of the Okanagan Historical Society's Annual Report includes, once again, many hitherto unwritten facts and stories of Okanagan History. Our lead article shows, however, that the Okanagan Historical Society is engaged in more pertinent pursuits than the mere collection of musty data, or the hoarding of historic trivia. In his article \"The Proposed Cascade Wilderness,\" Mr. H. R. Hatfield outlines the case for the preservation of our natural and historic heritage, as embodied in the early trails to the interior, a cause which has this Society's full and active support. Several years ago, the Okanagan Historical Society decided, as a matter of editorial policy, to print, as space and time permitted, the histories of some of the smaller communities in our valley. Many of these communities have almost gone 'the way of all flesh,' while others have changed almost beyond recognition from the early days, or been swallowed by the larger centres. This year, we present two such community histories, products of their own citizenry, with a great deal of pride. Once again, as editor, I owe a great deal of gratitude to many people who have helped to make this publication possible. I will mention just a few; To the indomitable Victor Wilson, a Production Manager par excellence; to Ruby Lidstone, Beryl Gorman, Marie Wostradowski, David MacDonald and Dolly Waterman, together with their editorial committees, who work so hard to gather and polish manuscripts from their respective locales; to Mrs. A. Cail and Linda Shpikula who so willingly undertook proof-reading duties; to the President of the Okanagan Historical Society, Mr. Jack Armstrong and his Executive, for their whole-hearted support and encouragement of me in my editorial duties and to many, many more \u00E2\u0080\u0094 thank you very much. ERRATA The Okanagan Historical Society Report #23 (1959), pg. 72, article \"One Hundred Years in Similkameen\" by-line should read: \"Written by Gint Cawston, assisted by Sam Manery.\" The Okanagan Historical Society Report No. 43, article, The Honourable W. A. C. Bennett, p. 55 contains the following errors: 1 The Honourable W. A. C. Bennett was given the Freedom of the City of Kelowna in 1952, not 1979. This was soon after his becoming Premier. 2 Mr. Bennett bought the Leckie Hardware from David Leckie in 1930. CONTENTS HISTORICAL PAPERS AND DOCUMENTS THE PROPOSED CASCADE WILDERNESS (H. R. Hatfield) 9 DONALD GRAHAM: PIONEER, POLITICIAN AND CO-OPERATOR (Jim Wardrop) 19 CHIEF TRADER PAUL FRASER: HIS PARENTAGE AND GRAVE (H. R. Hatfield) 23 KELOWNA MEDICAL HISTORY (Donald M. Black, M.D.) 26 LETTER FROM CULLEN BASH (1933) EX-DEPUTY CUSTOMS COLLECTOR 34 MORE EARLY FRUIT AWARDS (Mary Gartrell Orr) 38 ESSAYS HOWARD HOUSE (Steven Hesketh) 41 VERNON'S HISTORICAL ARCHITECTURE (Doug Carrie) 46 BIOGRAPHIES AND REMINISCENCES BILL MINER (Deputy Commissioner Cecil Clark: R.C.M.P. Retired) 52 A GAME OF POOL (H. R. Hatfield) 58 LOGGING AND SAWMILLS IN PEACHLAND (Hamish C. MacNeill 60 THE COTTAGE: STORY OF THE OLD JACQUES HOME (Beryl Gorman) 66 THE SAGA OF ROBERT WOOD (W.J. Whitehead) 70 ADELPHI HOTEL (Jean Touminen) 74 THE STORY OF THE FALKLAND STAMPEDE (Una Haller) 76 CHIEF ROBERT NEWTON CLERKE AND ELIZABETH JOHNSTON CLERKE \"THE CHIEF\" (Dr. A. S. Clerke) 79 HISTORY OF GRAND VIEW FLAT, NEAR ARMSTRONG (Richard Mellish) 87 MR. FOSTER WHITAKER (Interviewed August 18, 1978) 91 KATHLEEN DEWDNEY RECEPTION 96 GROWING UP IN GLENMORE: 1911 - 1926 (Arthur Ward) 99 STORIES OF EARLY DAYS - TOLD TO W. R. CARRUTHERS (E. M. (Ted) Carruthers, J.P.) 104 DOES ANYONE REMEMBER? REMINISCENCES OF EARLY PRINCETON (Margaret Mitchel (nee Hunter) 110 KENNETH WILLIAM KINNARD - 1887 - 1978 (Norma Kinnard Ross) 119 THE HISTORY OF KALEDEN (H. W. Corbitt) 123 BOOK REVIEWS 182 OBITUARIES 184 BUSINESS AND ACTIVITIES OF THE OKANAGAN HISTORICAL SOCIETY NOTICE OF ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING OF O.H.S. 1981 193 MINUTES OF THE 55th ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING OF O.H.S. 1980 194 PRESIDENT'S REPORT 1979-1980 (Jack Armstrong) 197 SECRETARY'S REPORT 1979-1980 (R. F. Marriage) 198 EDITOR'S REPORT 1979-1980 (Carol Abernathy) 198 OLIVER-OSOYOOS BRANCH (Carlton MacNaughton) 199 REPORT OF THE TRAILS COMMITTEE (H. R. Hatfield) 199 REPORT OF THE TRAILS COMMITTEE - VERNON BRANCH (Peter Tassie) 201 REPORT OF THE PANDOSY MISSION COMMITTEE 1979-80 (G. D.Cameron) 201 PANDOSY MISSION COMMITTEE O.H.S. FINANCIAL STATEMENT 1979 202 TREASURER'S REPORT (Lee Christensen) 203 KELOWNA BRANCH (W. F. Anderson) 204 PENTICTON BRANCH (Victor Wilson) 205 ARMSTRONG-ENDERBY BRANCH (Ruby Lidstone for Bill Whitehead) 206 VERNON BRANCH (Ron Robey) 207 MEMBERSHIP LIST 208 HISTORICAL PAPERS AND DOCUMENTS THE PROPOSED CASCADE WILDERNESS By H. R. Hatfield In December of 1972 the Okanagan Similkameen Parks Society presented a brief to the Minister of Recreation and Conservation of the Province of British Columbia asking for an extension to Manning Provincial Park. Later the Society modified its request to the extent that they felt a wilderness area without roads would be acceptable. To date the reply has been that the area would remain under the jurisdiction of the Forest Service as a multiple use area with some co-operation with the Parks Branch in delineating and preserving historic trails, where practical. Follow a layman's description of the country involved and the proposed boundaries, the various values of the area and the reasons why it is felt that this piece of territory should be preserved as it is for the benefit of future generations of people and of wildlife. STREAMS AND MOUNTAINS The Tulameen River \u00E2\u0080\u0094 To be any good the extension or wilderness preserve would have to extend at least to the mouth of Squakin Creek. This would leave say 8.5 miles of the River in the protected zone, from its source in the Punch Bowl. The next 6 miles downstream is in pretty rough country and might stay clean anyway for a long time. The Punch Bowl \u00E2\u0080\u0094 on the westerly side of Snass Mountain is some 5,500 feet above the sea. The mouth of the Squakin is about 4,100 feet. There are many tributaries from both sides, the Podunk being of course the largest. Not all those from the east could be fully included because of the well established cattle range on that side. Certainly the east side of the river itself, the high country around Snass Mt., the Punch Bowl and Paradise Valley would have to be included. Paradise Valley is a low, broad, gently sloping marshy valley where doubtless the Indians of Blackeye's day dug roots and the bears still do. The river has lots of little trout. Sowaqua Creek \u00E2\u0080\u0094 (Colvile's Sa'anqua River) (Pierre River of some old maps). This beautiful stream is some 16 miles long. It empties into the Coquihalla a mile or more below Jessica. One of its sources is Ghostpass Lake, another on the slopes of Mt. Dewdney and another south of Jacobson Lake not far from Podunk Creek. Main tributaries on the westerly side are Colvile, Bushby, O'Reilly, Matthew and Ghostpass and on the easterly Montigny Creek. The lower part is already flanked by logging roads. These no doubt will eventually go up as far as Montigny Creek regardless of whether the wilderness preserve is set up or not. The upper part, say 9 miles, remains as nature made it. The fall from the source of the north branch to Montigny Creek is about 2,500 feet. It is full 10 of excellent small fish, trout and/or steelhead. The valley is very impressive with high mountains and cascading streams from the snowfields. In places there is a wide interval between the actual Creek bank and the mountain base; in other places narrow canyons. The Creek is easily waded in low water but even above Matthew it is crossed at some risk when in flood. Podunk Creek \u00E2\u0080\u0094 It is clean, clear and unpolluted. To date there is no logging, grazing, mining or road building throughout its length. In the lower part at least, trout is plentiful. The flow at the junction with the Tulameen is about equal to that of the River and in high water crossing can be difficult. To the fur traders the Podunk was a branch of the Similkameen and later the \"Headwaters of the Tulameen.\" Named for Podunk Davis, woodsman of the Similkameen and famous for his rescue of Nurse Warburton, the Creek is some 8 miles long and would be wholly in any worthwhile extension or wilderness area. It flows into the Tulameen River about 8 miles from the River's source in the Punch Bowl, and say about a third of a mile above the Horse Guard camp on the Old Brigade Trail. It starts as an almost vertical cascade on the east slope of Mt. Davis but the main valley falls quite gently and has a wide bottom and not very high mountains to the sides. Grand Pond and Jacobson Lake drain into it and lower down Cunningham Creek and Chisholm Creek are tributaries on the northern side. Other Streams \u00E2\u0080\u0094 In addition to the three main streams above are some miles of the Skaist River which could and should be included, Snass Creek, and numberless small, largely unnamed, streams and mountain lakes. Some 4 miles of the Skaist are fortunately already in Manning Park. MOUNTAINS The Park extension or wilderness proposed includes several grand mountains. Snass has an elevation of 7,581 feet and Outram must be somewhat higher. Dewdney is over 7,300, Ford almost 7,000 and Mt. Davis almost 6,600. The maps showing the features of the area are Chilliwack Lake, Map 92 H/SW, Third Status Edition and Princeton, Sheet 92 H/SE, Third Status Edition. TRAILS The Dewdney Trail \u00E2\u0080\u0094 The original pathfinder for the Dewdney Trail was Alexander Caufield Anderson of the Hudson's Bay Company. It became obvious that the Americans were going to get the country around the lower Columbia. In 1846 Anderson suggested that he try to find a route from the Interior to the Coast north of the 49th parallel and the suggestion was approved. From Thompson's River (Kamloops) he went to Fort Langley by horse and canoe via the Lillooet Harrison Lake route. On the return he canoed to the mouth of the Coquihalla and then went on foot via the Nico- lum, Sumallo, Skagit, Snass, and Tulameen to Campement des Femmes (Tulameen). This was the crossing of the mountains south of the Fraser in what, in that year, became British territory. It was an epic trip, though for various reasons its results were not harvested for some fourteen years. It is worth noting here that Highway 3 follows 11 his track from Hope to where it crosses the Snass at the top of the rhododendron flat. And from 1860 to 1949 when the Highway was completed all the various trails between the Similkameen and Hope did the same. In discussing the Brigade Trail we will see how, if not why, it took a different way. In the meantime let us join Anderson in his crossing. Third of June 1846: \"Set out at 3-1/4 A.M. and breakfasted at 6 among the rhododendrons. Set fire to the fallen timber to make a landmark and to improve horse pasture for possible future use. Set out again at 8:20 and reached summit at noon. \" This was at the Punch Bowl where he estimated the snow as still ten feet deep: \"Our Indian assistants turn back here \u00E2\u0080\u0094 We have no one who knows anything of the country beyond this point. The water must guide us. \" Anderson's 1846 route was somehow never rechecked by the Hudson's Bay Company. In 1859 Lieut. Palmer while travelling the Brigade Trail noted the valley of the Nicolum-Sumallo but it seems to have been 1860 before the route was explored by the Royal Engineers. In August of that year Edgar Dewdney, and Walter Moberly of C.P.R. location fame, were given a contract to build a trail to Vermillion Forks (Princeton). It was built to the head of Snass Creek that year and on to Princeton the next. Several years later Dewdney completed it to Wild Horse Creek; the first trans-provincial highway. Here is a description of the Trail's users, from an article in the Twenty- second Report of the Okanagan Historical Society by Kathleen Stuart Dewdney. \"It saw pack trains for horses and mules carrying in a great variety of provisions and supplies and carrying out valuable furs and gold. It was traversed by the placer-gold miners in the sixties and seventies, and by the lode miners in the late eighties and the nineties. Thousands of range cattle from the ranches of the early settlers ambled over it to western and eastern British Columbia markets, and droves of horses were driven to and fro. Distinguished personages, magistrates, lawyers, legislators and other government officials, missionaries, doctors, mail carriers and others mounted on horseback, either alone or by pack train, wended their way along the trail. Pioneers in quest of homesteads travelled over it, and today many descendants of these pioneers are worthy citizens of our province. \" Dewdney was born in Devonshire in 1835. He came to what is now British Columbia in May 1859 and for the next ten years did engineering surveying and construction. After 1869 he held various important posts in the B.C. and Dominion Governments, retiring in 1897 as Lieutenant Governor of British Columbia. He died in Victoria in 1916. The \"Stop of Interest\" sign by Highway 3 at the Snass Creek crossing at the top of the rhododendron flat might lead one to believe that some substantial part of this section of the Trail is now in Manning Park. But this is not so. A look at the map shows that here the Park is only a narrow strip along the Highway. The proposed extension would include some ten miles of this historic trail. The H.B.C. Trail \u00E2\u0080\u0094 With the exception of the Kequeloos or Cold- 12 water-Spuzzum Trail of 1848, which was used for three Brigade trips only, this Trail was the first \"highway\" between Coast and Interior in the British territory. From 1849 to at least 1860 over it passed all supplies for the vast territory from Fort St. James to Fort Colvile and the furs collected there. Resulting from A. C. Anderson's exploration in 1846 and information given him by the Indian Blackeye, the Trail was actually located by Henry Peers in 1848-49. Peers built Fort Hope and worked mostly from that end. Helping with the location from the Campement des Femmes (Tulameen) end was Edouard Montigny, the son of Ovide de Montigny who came to the mouth of the Columbia in the Tonquin with the Astorians in 1811. In 1849 the combined Brigades of New Caledonia, Thompson's River and Fort Colvile returned from the coast this way, the first Brigade over the Trail. Later the same year Eden Colvile of The Honourable Company travelled it from Thompson's River (Kamloops) to Fort Hope in seven days, his men walking as there were not sufficient horses available at the moment to mount them. In 1855 Chief Trader Paul Fraser, then in charge at Thompson's River, was killed by a falling tree at Campement du Chevreuil near the summit of the Cascades and buried there. In 1859, as the busy life of the Trail was getting near its end, a most interesting group crossed by it. Chief Trader Angus McDonald with a Hudson's Bay Company party was bound for Fort Colvile. In company was Lieut. H. S. Palmer, R.E., making an official reconnaissance of the Trail and also as far as Campement des Femmes, Judge Begbie and his staff of O'Reilly and Bushby. It was the Judge's first trip to Kamloops. Leaving Fort Hope the Trail crossed the Coquihalla then went past Kawkawa Lake to the mouth of Peers Creek. It then recrossed the Coquihalla and went up Peers Creek. The first camp out of Hope, Manson Camp, was near the end of the Peers Creek box canyon. It has been wiped out by logging but just beyond it is the start of the ten chain protective corridor now granted for the Trail and here the extension of wilderness area should start. The Trail then climbs over Manson Ridge, goes through Fools Pass and on up the south westerly side of the Sowaqua Valley. It crosses Colvile, Bushby, O'Reilly and Matthew Creeks then crosses the Sowaqua and climbs to Campement du Chevreuil. This is the second camp out of Hope and the first one with grass for horses. Over the six thousand foot Cascade summit it passes the beautiful Palmer Pond then down a long green valley to the headwaters of the Podunk. Following along the left side of this valley it reaches and crosses the Tulameen at the Horse Guard by the mouth of Packer Creek, the third camp out of Fort Hope. From here it climbs through a deep defile to emerge on the Tulameen plateau. At the lower end of the defile near the forks of Squakin Creek it enters the cattle range and here the suggested protected area would end; the Trail beyond this to be given corridor protection. The next camp was at Lodestone Lake and the next at Campement des Femmes. After the Dewdney was built and the Brigades thankfully gave up crossing Manson Ridge there is no doubt that parts of the old Trail continued to be used by prospectors, trappers, hunters and other travellers. No doubt too Brigades and others bound for Tulameen or points beyond cut across by the Whatcom or other trails from the Dewdney to the Brigade Trail. In Peers Creek due to logging most of the Trail is wiped out. It is also true that some miles of it in the Sowaqua may never be positively identified due to forest fires but the route is followed with reasonable ease by the use of old maps and Lieut. Palmer's description. A Parks Branch crew is this summer (1977) marking and clearing the Trail. Both Palmer and Bushby kept journals in 1859 and here are some short quotations. Palmer mentions that Manson Ridge is dangerous before the first of June or after the first of October due to its steepness and the heavy snowfall and then goes on; \"Mr. McLean of the Hudson's Bay Company, who crossed in 1857 or 1858, on the 16th of October had a very disastrous trip, and lost 60 or 70 horses in the snow. Traces of their deaths are still visible, and in riding over the mountain, and more particularly on its eastern slope, my horse frequently shied at the whitened bones of some of the poor animals, who had broken down in the sharp struggle with fatigue and hunger, and been left to perish where he lay. \" At Campement du Chevreuil the Lieutenant remarked on Paul Fraser's grave, \"It is here that Mr. Fraser met his death by a tree falling on him when asleep, and within a few yards of the spot where he had pitched our tent; a neat pile of rough hewn logs marks his lonely grave. \" Bushby's personal journal is less formal. Begbie's party were on foot. This is part of his entry for 18 September 1859 when they went from Manson Camp to Campement du Chevreuil. \"I am not a very likely subject to give in but halfway I was fairly stopped for want of something to eat breakfasted at six o'clock it was now 1 o'clock and we had had a frightful days work thanks to a cup of brandy some flour cake and 14 some raw salmon an Indian gave us we made a good meal and jogged on to the top where we had a splendid camp, the tents opposite sides of a log fire ten feet in length. We all had a fine cold spring bath, then such a dinner. Some Indian had killed 8 or 10 birds so we had a hyyou dinner such a meal \u00E2\u0080\u0094 and what with a nip \u00E2\u0080\u0094 some hot grog and a pipe we turned in pretty comfortable \u00E2\u0080\u0094 eh\" The Hope Trail \u00E2\u0080\u0094 The term \"Hope Trail\" came to be used to denote any of the various trails which spread out through the Interior settlements and by one way or another arrived at Hope, the point of arrival or departure for them all on the Coast side. However here we will use it more specifically to mean that diversion of the Dewdney which went by the Hope Pass and down the Skaist River to rejoin the Dewdney Trail at the Snass where the Highway sign now is. This diversion located by Captain J. M. Grant, R.E., in 1861 was open for a longer season than the \"Canyon Trail\" section of the Dewdney by the Snass and eventually became the usual route of the Hope Trail. The writer rode over it in 1924 and it was still the common route for pedestrian or equestrian travel. The Park now takes in about four miles of this Trail. The proposed addition would enclose an additional say four to seven miles depending on the final boundary decided on. The Whatcom Trail \u00E2\u0080\u0094 Like many things connected with the Goldrush this Trail may have taken on a somewhat exaggerated importance in history compared with others. However its story is different and of considerable interest. The B.C. Historical Quarterly of October 1937 carried a letter by C. C. Gardiner written in November 1858. He found Whatcom, then about four weeks old, considering incorporation. \"Some thousands of men were waiting there at that time in the greatest dilemma, not knowing which way to proceed to the new mines. \" The Fraser was running too high. \"Nevertheless, many would form in companies, buy a canoe, lay in from three to six months provision, and start, working their way as far as possible, until the river fell. Others would assert they would wait for the trail, which was then in operation of being cut through the country, across the Cascade Mountains to Thompson River, at the expense of some Land and Town Lot Speculators, who were determined to have the great depot and centre of trade, effected by the new mines on American soil.\" Thus the Whatcom Trail came about. It came up the Skagit and the Snass, went by the Punch Bowl and probably went by Wells Lake following the ancient Indian road, Blackeye's Trail. As Lieut. Palmer noted in 1859 it joined the Brigade Trail, a few miles south of Lodestone Lake. Perhaps two miles of the route is in the present Park following the line of the Highway. The extension could take in as much as another ten miles. There apparently was an earlier Whatcom Trail which reached the Fraser about thirty miles below Hope but it proved unsatisfactory. The Ghost Pass Trail \u00E2\u0080\u0094 Just how much use this Trail had the writer cannot say. Certainly it would seem doubtful if many travelled its full length. That some sections had a fair amount of use seems most likely. In parts at least,like so many of the trails, it was probably first an Indian track. 15 It was located much later than the others by C. E. Devereux, C.E. in 1929 and in some places any actual construction was probably sketchy. It went up Eighteen Mile Creek from the Hope Trail and by Ghostpass Lake between Mt. Outram and Mt. Dewdney and then down the Sowaqua. For a short distance at least it followed the Brigade Trail in the Colvile Creek vicinity then back to follow the Sowaqua again and to cut across to reach the Coquihalla near Jessica. It joined the Pipestem Trail beyond the Coquihalla and was planned to eventually come out on the Fraser. It was to be constructed as a \"horse trail.\" Some thousand feet or so is in the present Park corridor. Not counting that part which follows the Brigade Trail some seven miles would be in the extension. Other Trails \u00E2\u0080\u0094 The most ancient of all the trails with which we are here concerned was of course the Indian hunting trail which became known as Blackeye's Trail. Whether it was in use before the Indians of the district had horses some 200 years ago no one knows but it may well have been. One end was at Campement des Femmes. The Brigade Trail used it from there to some miles southwest of Lodestone Lake, perhaps from the Horse Guard. Its other end, or fading point, was no doubt in the general vicinity of the Punch Bowl, Paradise Valley and Snass Mountain. It was in this area that the Indians dug roots and hunted the hoary marmots, the siffleur of the fur traders. A trail down the Tulameen connects the Dewdney and the Brigade. How or when it came into being seems unknown; it is of course a natural. Perhaps it was part of a diversion of Blackeye's Trail. Later than the Brigade or Dewdney Trails a trail was blazed, probably by prospectors, up Vuich Creek and by Jacobson Lake crossing the Podunk and the Brigade Trail and by the low pass to and down the northerly source of the Sowaqua. FLORA The area embraces a very large number of different species of trees, shrubs and flowers reaching as it does from Coast forest and alpine to Interior alpine and semi alpine. Elevations go from 2,500 feet to 7,500 feet above the sea. Wild flower displays in several areas are truly magnificent and on most of the trails flowers are never out of sight. WILDLIFE Around the Cascade summits there are wonderful specimens of deer. Up to now only the few hunters who will go on foot or horseback get in there. There are some elk and moose, coyotes and possibly wolves. Bear are quite plentiful and go about their business of digging roots or picking huckleberries practically undisturbed by the odd group of human going by. The area is reputed to be the home of a few grizzlies. It must be their last refuge in south western B.C. The hoary marmots, whose numbers seem to be diminishing in B.C. and would certainly do so here if roads go in, now live among the Cascade ridge and on the higher mountains as they did in Blackeye's day. When trapping was more popular and profitable trappers worked in the valleys of the area 16 catching beaver, marten, lynx, etc. All these of course still here and the interesting but shy pika and mountain beaver. The usual three kinds of grouse plus ptarmigan are present and black swifts and many small birds, and golden eagles, hawks and owls. Wild pigeons must at least pass through as they are seen as far east as Tulameen. GRAZING There is no grass west of the Sowaqua and no great quantity elsewhere in the area. As has been noted, cattle ranges have been long established to the eastward of the Tulameen. It is suggested that the easterly boundary of the protected area should be adjusted between Squakin Creek and Skaist River so that very little, if any, of the well established range would be interfered with. If in the last several years cattle have been driven into the Paradise Valley, as is rumoured, there may be some source of conflict at this point. TIMBER The writer does not have a Forest Service report on the amount of mature timber in the area under consideration. However a few things are very obvious. The Sowaqua Valley, barring accidents, will a hundred years from now have a large crop of timber. As of now that portion of the valley covered by mature timber is a small percentage. Included is a strip of very ancient forest between the base of Manson Ridge and the huge burn which covers much of the valley. Also there are some rather small patches around the headwaters. The country, aside from the Sowaqua, has some stands of timber but nothing of great extent which is in any way exceptional. Much of it is lodge- pole pine and much of little value. MINERALS In times past a good deal of prospecting was done in and around this piece of country. Some claims have been staked in the area from time to time. Much of it has been gone over again in recent years. No producing mine is or, to the best of the writer's knowledge, has been worked. Geological maps do not seem to show anything very encouraging actually in the proposed area. BOUNDARIES There are differences in the boundaries shown on the different sketch maps made from time to time since the original brief to Government by the O.S.P.S. in December 1972. The explanation is that there is a difference in a number of places between what would be desirable to give a well rounded Park extension or wilderness area and what is essential if the wilderness is to be preserved at all. The present Manning Park we believe is about 260 square miles. Again very roughly, the original request would take in some 100 square miles. The N.W. corner would have to be such that the Brigade Trail where it leaves the logged area in Peers Creek was included. To the southeast from there the line would run between Highway 3 and the height of land between Seventeen and Eighteen Mile Creeks. To the eastward the boundary would have to stay clear of the Brigade Trail, say a thousand feet. Then cross the Sowaqua below or at Montigny Creek and go eastward by Tulameen Mt. or by Montigny Creek. It should follow the height of land to the north of the 17 Podunk hitting the Tulameen downstream of or at Squakin Creek. The N.E. corner would have to be where the Brigade Trail hits Squakin Creek. The boundary would then go south along the edge of the established cattle range east of the Tulameen. It would have to be east of Paradise Valley and Snass Mt. taking in as much as possible of the Dewdney and Hope Trails without seriously infringing on the well established cattle range, and meeting the present Park line east of where the present line crosses Skaist River. PRESENT OFFICIAL PLANS FOR THE AREA To our knowledge the only land use plan so far started for the area is that for the Sowaqua Valley, its heartland. This plan calls for the logging of what timber there is in the whole valley, except for a corridor along part, or hopefully, all of the Brigade Trail. Roads would be built to the sources of the stream, the kiss of death to the wilderness. And it is obvious that roads once built can neither be removed nor for any length of time successfully blocked. The now clear Sowaqua would surely have some silt and other pollution. No matter how the roads are built or clearcut logging done this is inevitable; look over the present roads in Peers Creek and the lower Sowaqua. The Brigade, the Ghostpass and the Jacobson Lake cross trail, where they survive, will lose the pioneer spirit and be mere tracks along a mass of roads, better than nothing it is true but without the real impact of the wilderness or history. As elsewhere where roads cover the bush the wildlife would be reduced to a furtive remnant of man fleeing creatures. The roads running to the heart of the area would put practically every part within a day's hunt from a vehicle. Most of it would be available to the sort of hunter who drives the roads with gun at the ready to kill any living thing. The plant life would be changed, no longer could the botanist or the ordinary visitor see the various zone of growth just as they have existed for hundreds of years. The earth would be torn apart and left scattered with wreckage; an inevitable part of clearcut logging. The unique and wonderful strip of primeval forest would be spoiled. WHY WE BELIEVE THIS AREA SHOULD BE LEFT AS IT IS Some things are so obvious to our common sense that it it not necessary to have an array of statistics to prove them. On every hand are warnings that we must wake up and sacrifice some of our material wealth to save \"our world,\" as we assume it to be. There is no better way than to leave a bit of it alone as nature made it. Particularly when that bit is adjacent to our heaviest concentration of people and another growing concentration of people and is the only really natural bit left in a wide expanse and is available at no cost or trifling cost. It might be suggested too that perhaps the world is not \"ours\" alone. It may be that our kindred of the wild have the right to some small part where they can live naturally without the harassment of roaring and whining machinery and vehicle encased gunners, or the degradation of being made into roadside bums. Perhaps also some contact with them in a truly natural environment benefits ourselves. Or looking at wildlife and fish as only something for our own use and amusement such a natural reservoir, without the pollution and pressures that 18 follow roads as surely as the night the day, is of tremendous value. Without statistics or sometimes in spite of them any of us over fifty know in our hearts that most wildlife is steadily diminishing. This area can stand some limited hunting by foot or horseback. It should not devastate the wildlife and would give the ordinary hunter, as it does now, a chance to enjoy a sport otherwise reserved for those wealthy enough to fly to far places. However of more importance is the preservation of this area, easily and cheaply accessible to so many, where the true spiritual balm of the wilderness can be received. In our times young and old can benefit greatly from it. In the future its benefits will doubtless be greater, its acquirement more and more difficult. As a bonus one can here step back into the days of the Fur Brigades when nearly all the country was a wilderness or travel with the later argonauts of the goldrush. It is a particularly fine location for the training of youth. Here they can learn that life can be interesting without roads and gasoline and get that independence and freedom of spirit that comes with travelling on your own feet and carrying all the necessities of life on your own back. Here they can relive history and most important live as part of nature rather than apart from her. The area left alone, except for some trail clearning and marking and some regulation of human use, could be a reference area for all sorts of scientific study. It is becoming more and more difficult to find anything in air, water or land where it has not been altered by man's activities. Here is an easy way to get the gradual, often imperceptible, change in things, to once again see natural clean water, green growth, giant trees and unawed wild animals. The only real objection to the preservation of the area seems to be the desire to harvest its timber. If it is true that forest harvesting in B.C. is on a sustained yield basis there would be no need to reach into the last far corners to get the last few trees from them. If it is not true, it would seem the part of wisdom to keep a bit in reserve somewhere. In a hundred, perhaps seventy- five or eighty, years from now when the second growth in the burn is mature the Sowaqua Valley will have many times the amount of timber now in it. To the citizens of that day should be left the decision to cut or leave. All around the world are places where man is suffering because he used all of the material resources in sight, particularly timber and grass. Can anyone point out a place where he is really suffering because of setting aside land to remain as nature made it? 19 Editor's Note: The following is the text of an address given by Mr. Jim Wardrop, Assistant Curator at the Provincial Museum, to the 1980 Annual General Meeting of the Okanagan Historical Society on May 4, in Armstrong, B.C. DONALD GRAHAM: PIONEER, POLITICIAN AND CO-OPERATOR By Jim Wardrop When I decided to prepare a talk on Donald Graham, I was aware of his descendants still residing in the community so I hoped my research wouldn't uncover anything that might be embarassing. But, to the contrary I discovered an incredibly honourable man who earned my respect. Graham, from eastern Canada, came to B.C. in the early 1870's to try his hand at finding gold in the Cariboo but soon headed for the Spallumcheen Valley where he pre-empted 320 acres in Pleasant Valley. There he had the first taste of co-operation for a neighbour, Martin Fursteneau, helped him build a log cabin with a pole roof covered with straw and 6 inches of dirt. Furthermore, Fursteneau arranged to use Graham's horses for harrowing on both their properties in return for his oxen to do the ploughing. Another neighbour, Herman Wichers always visited new settlers to see what kind of help he could provide. Although Graham and the other early settlers had an enormous advantage when they pre-empted the most fertile tracts of land, there were great difficulties ahead. Because there was such a problem marketing their produce, they had little money to buy goods and services. From his Reminiscences, we read of Graham making wagon wheels from pine trees of 2-3 foot diameter, making sleigh runners from \"a suitable crook in the woods\" and whipsawing timber to make chairs, tables and bedsteads. The situation looked up for Graham and the other settlers when, in 1877, the Lambly brothers built a warehouse at Enderby to store grain prior to sternwheeler shipment to Kamloops. But that was just a glimmer of hope for demand for flour wasn't that high. Graham reminisced about eating flour in dozens of variations \u00E2\u0080\u0094 even making wheat coffee! It was not until 1880 and construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway that valley settlers found a market for their produce. A new grist mill was built by James Mcintosh in Kamloops, paying $20-30 per ton. Furthermore hogs were driven to the various sites of railway construction where the farmers were paid 5 r // <: Fruit picking - James Gartrell orchard about 1908. On ladder at left - unknown; on ladder at right - Magnus Tait; bottom left to right - Fred Gartrell, Mrs. Alfred Wade (the former Miss Melsom) and Mrs. James Gartrell. 41 Editor's Note: After careful consideration by various members of the Editorial Committees and myself, this year's prize will be divided equally between the following two young writers. This was, we feel, the most fair solution to the difficult problem of deciding which essay was the better. ESSAYS HOWARD HOUSE By Steven Hesketh One of Vernon's greatest success stories is Howard House and Howard Industries. This is a special story, for its success is due to the tremendous community support given throughout the existence of the project. It reflects the citizens' concerns and cares for Vernon's needy transients and it displays the community spirit and pride which made Howard House and its Industries a reality. A John Howard Society social worker, W. F. Hesketh, was the first to propose the answer, which would solve Vernon's growing need for a hostel. Area officials recognized this need and decided the bulk of the responsibility would go to the most appropriate and best prepared group, in this case, the John Howard Society. Numerous organizations and individuals pledged their support and participation in the project. It would be this support that would decide the future of the hostel and so the decisions rested within the community. Many clergymen, ranchers, businessmen, loggers, policemen, social workers, bankers, and individual club representatives of Vernon gathered to decide when and where the home for destitute men would open. It was decided that, after a six-month trial period, the board of directors (a group of Vernon people chosen from various organizations to direct the hostel) would evaluate the project. Vernon presented their case to the provincial government and they replied by promising financial support. The word was go. The official opening took place on January 1st, 1968, but Howard House actually opened prior to the Christmas of 1967. Donations began to flow into the house, and eventually volunteers were needed to control the aid, revealing the overwhelming support of the Vernon community. Rooms were furnished and decorated, appliances were given, food was donated, helpers gave their time, and the list goes on. The \"house on the hill\" became Howard House, 3505 - 34th Ave., a haven for indigent transients and a focus of municipal pride. During the six month trial, Howard House would see some 346 men go through its doors.1 Fifty of those men found permanent or temporary employment in Vernon and others were able to help in other community projects.1 By the end of June, 1968, it was clear that Howard House was quickly becoming something of a necessity. The improvement in taking needy people off the streets and thereby creating less nuisance to the community was immediately noticed, particularly by the R.C.M.P. There was less need for petty theft to secure the means for food and lodging. The Board of Directors, along with the City Council, gave Howard House the green light. 42 However, this residence for destitute men began to experience financial problems that would continually hinder progress. A large scale appeal was made in search of new sources of income. Despite all of the hostel's success, the City Council, a major financial source, questioned their support and threatened a withdrawal of aid. Howard House floundered but made a comeback with more aid and a counter-proposal to the City Council. The time was crucial for the operators of the men's residence, since their project was young and now faced fatal situations. It was their persistence and the community's whole-hearted concern that pulled Howard House through the conflict. Since the establishment of the hostel, the number of transients had steadily grown to over 1,000 men.2 Along with this number and the increasing number of men per day, Howard House Manager William Hesketh, Supervisor Nick Relkov, and John Howard Society's North Okanagan President, George Forscutt, began to search for a new and larger residence. Burying old hatchets, the Vernon City Council and the Vernon Jubilee Hospital Board awarded Howard House with the much sought-after army nurse's residence, (from World War II), but under the condition that they would remove it from its original site east of the Jubilee Hospital. Despite neighbourhood resistance, the John Howard Society received a land grant near the present day sewage plant to accommodate the new building. Plans were made to employ as many transients and Vernon men as possible in the re-location of the old nurse's residence. The move involved a series of developments which attracted district-wide attention. But what really made the operation speed up was the tragic fire at the old Howard House, claiming one life and virtually destroying the home. Upon completion, the community once again flooded the new Howard House with donations. This helped relieve the staff who were facing the problem of relocating the inhabitants. A common occurrence at Howard House was the decorating and furnishing of a room by various Vernon groups such as the Salvation Army and Trinity United Church Women. Within days, the transients were able to live within the renovated home and a lot of the credit goes to the concerned organizations within the community. The difference in size between the two houses was to become a great advantage in the near future. The average number of men accommodated daily in early 1970 was six to eight men, while in 1979, Howard House accommodated one hundred and three men in one night!3 The expansion of the transient program was not limited to the hostel, for progress was to be made in employment opportunities such as a logging camp near Revelstoke and one near Lumby. The agricultural aspect of the expansion was very important, for it not only served as a source of capital and employment but also food (some 48,000 meals were provided in the year 1977).4 In 1975, Mr. and Mrs. Tom Thorlakson deeded three acres of land to the John Howard Society and the Board of Directors for the purpose of opening a farm.5 The success of these programs was invaluable, but it was eventually discovered that they would never pay for themselves. Provincial Welfare, which had by now assumed most of the financial aid through grants, pledged their conditional and limited support. By saying conditional and limited, the author means the government, quite justly, wasn't and still isn't prepared to blindly send money of any amount continuously. 43 Howard House began to tackle more community-centered problems, like alcohol and drug abuse. Numerous rehabilitation sessions were held within the residence, and qualified volunteers instructed these courses. The John Howard Society opened the old recycling depot and for a couple of years solely ran the project as another source of income and employment. Today, Howard House faces the same problems as it did only yesterday. The Federal, Provincial, and Municipal governments have been cooperative, but to meet the needs of hostel projects requires a never-ending commitment of financial aid. What the community has to decide is whether or not their support is needed or worthwhile. Up to this point the author has elaborated on the various programs of the John Howard Society. But what have these programs done for the thousands of men who have stayed at Howard House? To analyze this more closely, let's look at the purpose of these projects as described by Howard House Manager, William Hesketh: \"To give them (the indigent transients) another chance to change their life-style. It is difficult for some of us (as settled Vernonites) to realize how hard it is for them to change their lives. Many of them are unable to relate with things that we, as a community, take for granted.\" Keeping this in mind, would a resident receive this chance through the program offered? Of course the answers would vary. Certainly, a transient would benefit from the projects if he cared to take advantage of them. The choice is his. No one can force anyone to change his life-style. For those who do take the chance provided, the values they would learn in maintaining a job and accepting responsibility for their life would have a positive effect on their future. A man could easily gain valuable working experience(s) through Howard Industries, possibly giving him new goals in life. The thought that people still care for them will stay with many residents. As to the future of Howard House, the author remains optimistic. Financial aid will remain a continual problem, but the purpose of the John Howard Society will never be defeated. Expansion may be limited if economic conditions get any worse, but the number of needy males will no doubt grow. Let's hope the community never stops its overwhelming support of their project. Man's humanity towards man is perhaps a good measure of any community. FOOTNOTES 1 Supervisor's Report, June 1968 (made at the end of the six-month trial). 2 Vernon Daily News, Summer, 1968. 3 Received from the Manager of Howard House, W. F. Hesketh. 4 Penticton Herald, July 1976 Vernon Daily News Victoria Gazette (all three papers printed stories on the progress of Howard Industries' farm operation). s Vernon Daily News, Summer-Fall, 1977. 44 Main entrance, Howard House, (facing west) where the official opening took place with the Honourable Premier Dave Barrett presiding. Yard and back of the residence, (facing south). Within the fenced-off area, lie automotive and carpentry shops as well as a cedar produce/firewood area. A view of the farm, (looking south) which was donated by Mr. and Mrs. Tom Thorlakson. Located off the Commonage Rd., beyond the Army Camp and weather station. The mainstay of this farm is pigs. The farmers tend over 300 pigs. 45 10 \"; .'\u00C4\u00A2 > > tWAKl* INDU^Iktrj lAk'M MtOGKMI Donations to the farm have mostly come in the form of animals and land. Cows, horses, chickens, geese, pigs, etc. have been well received. 46 VERNON'S HISTORICAL ARCHITECTURE By Doug Carrie There is much to be learned about a city through its oldest buildings and the people who live and work in them. The key to a city's history is in these buildings, for if one were to compile a history of each of the old buildings in a city and combine them in one volume, the resulting book would contain a most thorough history of the city itself. Vernon's history can be illustrated through a study of its old buildings. Vernon has many fine examples of architecture of which its citizens can be proud, but these buildings have been disappearing at an alarming rate. When one of our pioneer buildings is demolished, in effect, a bit of our heritage is being destroyed. Within the past few years, many of Vernon's most historically valuable buildings have been torn down. The old Hudson's Bay store on the corner of Barnard Avenue and Highway 97 was one to succumb to progress. This building had been one of the city's most impressive structures for a great many years until it was demolished. In its place today stands the plain square of the new Canadian Imperial Bank of Commerce. The original Vernon Lodge was destroyed five years ago. This building had originally been a private home and an outstanding one at that. It was later converted into apartments. Another of Vernon's oldest homes was torn down just last year to make room for the Jacques home next to the Safeway Store on Barnard, the 32nd street extension. The Kalamalka Hotel downtown lost its two top floors this year to \"progress.\" The hotel has now been deprived of its original beauty and has become just another of the plain square buildings which comprise most of the downtown area. Speaking of progress, when the Kalamalka Hotel was built in 1892, it cost $16,000. Today it is worth many times that amount. Not all of Vernon's pioneer buildings are being destroyed, and many of the oldest ones are still in use today and should be for quite some years to come. To illustrate this, as well as my previous points about finding a city's history in its architecture, I am going to take one specific building, the Nolan Drug's building, and give a detailed history. The building, which now houses Nolan Drugs Ltd. located on the corner of Barnard Avenue and Whetham Street (31st Street today), is one of the oldest buildings in downtown Vernon. The building was built around 1905 to hold Frank Reynold's machine shop. The machine shop stayed in the building for approximately nine years until 1914, when it relocated where the Vernon Advertiser offices are today. At that time the building was sold to Mr. R. E. Berry. He was a pharmacist and turned the premises into the R. E. Berry Drug and Book Co. The location of the dispensary in today's store was made into a small store and rented by a Mr. Spencer who operated a Real Estate office. R. E. Berry's store sold many books and they comprised most of his business. In the year 1923, the firm of Higgs and Wilson bought out R. E. Berry's business but not the building. Within a few years Humphrey Higgs also bought out Wilson to become the sole owner of the business. Under Higgs and Wilson, the drug store was divided into two separate shops. The drug store remained in the larger area and Kearney's Clothing opened in the other. 47 Kearney's Clothing was a men's wear shop. It was also around this time that Mr. Spencer's real estate office closed and Edgar's Electric Shop opened up in the premises. Edgar's Electric was an electrical appliance repair shop. The building has three floors and a basement. The main floor has always held a business of some sort, with the basement and attic being used for storage. At one time though, the attic was used as a golf school. People would practice their driving by standing at one end of the room and hitting golf balls at the cushioned far wall. The second floor was also used mainly for storage up until the late 1920's when it was rented out to the Vernon City Club. Before this, the club had been meeting in a building across the street from where the Elk's Club is today. The club has remained on the second floor right up to the present time. It was founded in 1913. It was 1928 when Hazel and Chester Nolan, both graduates of the Western School of Pharmacy, purchased the business from Humphrey Higgs. Higgs moved to Cardston, Alberta, where he opened a new store. The business is still there today. Hazel and Chester changed the store's name from the Berry Drug and Book Co. to the Nolan Drug and Book Co. In 1928, there were approximately 3500 people residing in Vernon. The land directly behind Nolan Drug's was nothing more than a large field. The Nolans once had the opportunity to purchase the entire field for five hundred dollars. In 1945, Nolan Holdings bought the entire building from R. E. Berry who still owned it. The store expanded into the areas previously occupied by Kearney's Men's Clothing and Edgar's Electric. Edgar's Electric moved into the building where the Chiropractors office and Cliffs Saddle Shop is located at 2903 - 31st St. The store remained the same until 1959, when it was completely modernized with the trend towards customer self-service. The staff increased from the original five in 1928 to seventeen in 1975. In 1975, Nolan Drug's Ltd. was sold to four partners, Hazel Nolan's son Don, Monte Morden, Larry Fischer and Jim Carrie. The store was completely remodeled again at this time and has remained the same until the present day. Among the other historical buildings in Vernon that are still in use today is the original Bank of Commerce building. After so many years as a bank, it would have been a simple matter to tear the aging structure down and to replace it with a modern business building when the bank moved. Luckily this was not the case, and the building has been completely restored to its original appearance. In my opinion, it is now one of the most striking buildings in the city today. The Powerhouse Theatre building is probably the one building in Vernon with the most varied history and an excellent example of how buildings can be preserved and adapted to^new uses rather than being destroyed. It was Vernon's power station for many years but was a derelict building scheduled for demoltion when Drew Allen and Doug Huggins had the idea to transform it into a theatre. Today the theatre is an integral and central part of our community. The pioneer buildings of any city are important and distinguishing parts of that city. Every effort should be made on the part of the citizens of a city to preserve the buildings which are their heritage. The information regarding Nolan Drugs Ltd. was derived from an interview with Hazel Nolan in late February, 1980. 48 Kalamalka Hotel The old Hudson's Bay Company building 49 Nolan's Drugs decorated for the first Vernon Days. 50 Nolan's 1950. Note the first fluorescent lights in Vernon and the tin roof. 51 The old Bank of Commerce Building The Powerhouse Theatre 52 BIOGRAPHIES AND REMINISCENCES BILL MINER By Deputy Commissioner Cecil Clark R.C.M.P. (Retired) It was 11:15 on the night of May 8, 1906, and the Canadian Pacific's westbound Imperial Limited was a little ahead of time. Engineer Joe Callin had just checked his watch, and as he hunched in the cab, his gloved hand on the throttle, he glanced occasionally out the window at the velvet blackness which cloaked the range land between Ducks and Furrer Creek, a dozen miles from Kamloops, British Columbia. The steady rhythmic drumming in the stack throbbed and echoed across the sage brush, as the swaying steel monster with its string of heavy coaches bored through the moonless night. Ahead the twin lines of polished steel threw back the reflection of the headlight's stabbing beam. But for some minutes now, Joe Callin had a feeling of uneasiness, a feeling that he was being watched. He shot a glance at his fireman Jack Ratcliffe. But the latter's eyes were on his gauges. Suddenly, Callin gave a start. Something had tapped him on the shoulder. The something was a man's hand! Whirling with a smothered exclamation, the engineer found himself looking into the steady unflinching eyes of a short, lightly built man, the bottom half of his face masked with a dirty handkerchief. In his right hand he gripped a .45 automatic, the muzzle level with Callin's stomach. Beside him stood a masked companion holding a gun on the fireman's back. In a lightning flash of deduction, Callin tried to figure how the pair got into the cab. They must have come across the roof of the mail car and dropped down on the tender, he swiftly reasoned. \"What is this!\" he exploded, recovering from his surprise. \"It's a hold-up,\" said the man with the .45 and the penetrating stare. Even though his voice came from behind the folds of a handkerchief, it carried an air of quiet finality. The two masked men quickly slipped their hands over Callin and Ratcliffe to see if they had any weapons. \"What do you want us to do?\" asked Callin grimly. \"I'll tell you in a minute what to do,\" was the quiet reply. A mile or two flew by. Then Callin felt the touch on his shoulder. \"Start braking here,\" came the command. The engineer obeyed, and as the brake shoes started to bite and squeal, the train's momentum slackened. Another minute went by. Then the man with the automatic spoke again. \"Pull up beside the big rock.\" The \"big rock\" was a prominent landmark beside the track, and the train was within a hundred yards of it. \"He's sure got this planned,\" thought Callin. Now by this time of course Joe Callin figured that he was taking a star 53 part in the dramatic story of the second train robbery in Canadian railroad history, but he didn't know that the man who stood beside him had engineered the first. When the train came to a hissing halt beside the big rock, a third masked and armed man appeared like a shadow from the darkness and stood by the cab steps. With quick, unhurried commands the holdup men herded the engineer and the fireman to the ground and forced them to uncouple the mail car from the train. A brakeman and a conductor dropped off the train, lanterns glimmering, to see what caused the unscheduled stop. The gunmen quickly ordered them back on the train. Then Callin and Ratcliffe were escorted back to the engine and ordered to take the mail car up the track, where another halt was made. Again they were forced out of the cab and told to order the mail clerks to open the mail car door. When clerks McQuarrie and Willis obeyed, two of the masked men clambered in. \"Where's the express?\" demanded one of the bandits. The nervous clerks explained the car only held mail. Quickly the gunmen pocketed a few registered packages, then swung to the ground. \"That's all we want from you fellows,\" said the short man with the automatic. And then, as the engineer and fireman climbed back in the cab, he gave them a half-friendly wave and added \"Good night - take care of yourselves!\" The locomotive quickly picked up speed and as it blurred in the darkness the armed trio made for their horses tethered nearby, and, in a few minutes, their drumming hoofbeats were swallowed in the darkness. The rest of the episode is briefly told. The locomotive joined the train and the Limited made its way into Kamloops. The excited passengers had a topic of conversation for weeks to come, press wires hummed with front page stories, and the police were alerted throughout Western Canada. Fanning out from Kamloops in all likely directions rode posses of B.C. Provincial Police, cowhands, Indian trackers and volunteers of all sorts. One Provincial Constable, Bill Fernie, playing a lone hand, tracked the bandits for six days until he spotted their hideout in the wilds of the Douglas Lake Country. Then he contacted a squad of six Royal North West Mounted Policemen patrolling nearby under Sgt. Wilson. The troopers rode in and surrounded the three gunmen as they sat round their campfire. As they were being questioned, one of the trio rolled swiftly into a gully, at the same time drawing his gun. A rapid exchange of shots followed, and the man who showed fight got shot in the leg. The other two made no resistance. When they were disarmed and jailed, it was found they had only netted $15 out of the robbery. The man who resisted was identified as Thomas (Shorty) Dunn, a thick-set beetle-browed cowhand with a criminal record, who had been punching cattle in the Merrit district. The second man was a delicate studious-looking youth called Lewis Col- quhoun, an ex-school teacher from Ontario, who had been drifting around Central B.C., out of work, when he met Dunn. He had never been in trouble before. Oldest of the three was 63-year old George Edwards, the leader of the group and the man who held the automatic on engineer Callin. Well known 54 around the Aspen Grove district of Merritt, Edwards looked a typical old time western rancher or prospector. Grizzled and grey with a ragged moustache, he had the plainsman's pucker around his eyes of ice-blue, that stared into your soul. Short and lightly built, he weighed under 140 pounds; he had a peculiar quiet reserve about him. He spoke quietly with just a hint of a southern accent. He denied all knowledge of the train robbery, and many of his friends just couldn't believe that old George Edwards would be mixed up in such a thing. \"There must be some mistake!\" vehemently contended one old lady. \"Why Mr. Edwards was out at our place two weeks ago. I remember it was a Sunday, and when the preacher didn't turn up, Mr. Edwards preached the sermon \u00E2\u0080\u0094 and a good one, too!\" There were others who told how kind George Edwards was to the young folk. He was never happier than when he had a bunch of youngsters around him, telling them tales of the old west. To this day there are old timers in B.C.'s interior who knew old George Edwards well, and they swear by his integrity. However the train robbers duly appeared in court, and after listening to all the evidence, a jury agreed on their guilt. Mr. Justice Irving sentenced Edwards and Dunn to life imprisonment and Colquhoun got twenty-five years. And then just before the robbers were escorted to the federal penitentiary at New Westminster, the cattle country got the shock of it's life! Warden Kelly of California's San Quentin prison happened to be in Kamloops and recognized old George Edwards as \"Bill Miner,\" one of the most daring stage and train robbers of his generation, a man whose exploits ranked with those of the Youngers, the Daltons and Jesse James. The identification was clinched when Kelly told the police at Kamloops to turn back Edwards' shirt cuff and look for the tattoo of a dancing girl. It was there all right. After serving twenty years, train robber Shorty Dunn was parolled, and subsequently met his death by drowning in a lonely northern B.C. river. What happened to Colquhoun is anybody's guess; perhaps his first brush with the law was his last. But their leader, Bill Miner, had such an amazing career that to get the full story we have to go back to 1843, and Bowling Green, Kentucky, where he was born, the son of a prosperous and law-abiding farmer. He attended school until he was 16, and then when stories of gold and excitement in the west filtered back to Kentucky, young Miner caught the fever and headed west. Through Missouri and across the Nations country until he landed in Texas, where the cattlemen were just beginning to crowd the buffalo off the rich unfenced range. The pony express rider was filling his brief hour before the coming of the telegraph, and six-horse stages trailed clouds of desert dust as they shuttled across the southwest with passengers and light freight. The chime whistle of the locomotive had yet to be heard west of Omaha. And in this atmosphere young Miner found himself - without money. But he had heard glamorous tales of California, and hitching himself to an immigrant train he arrived on the Pacific slopes. Broke and in California, he turned his mind to robbery. 55 At seventeen, he pulled off a $75,000.00 stage robbery. He made up his mind that this was the life - and he never turned back. He held up stage after stage, and the Wells Fargo people bent every effort to catch him. Posses of armed men scoured the mazanita-clad hills of California for the lone bandit who struck with forethought and suddenness -and always got away. Miner's successes were due to skillful planning. He studied the country, used the best horses, and always made sure of his escape route. But the lone wolfs luck couldn't last forever. Caught when his horse went lame, he got a long term of imprisonment. For the next 16 years he was in and out of California jails, always for the same crime \u00E2\u0080\u0094 stage robbery. He was never violent, never drank or smoked, and always had that air of calm reserve. But underneath the reserve was a steel will. It's now 1879, and at the age of 36 he's describing himself as A. E. Miner or W. A. Morgan, or sometimes as George Edwards. Just finished a term at San Quentin, he appeared in Denver, where he teamed up with Bill Leroy, a desperate character credited with many successful stage robberies in the Rocky Mountain region. In 1880, the pair robbed the Del Norte stage and got $3,600. A sheriff posse took after them and the bandits separated. Leroy made the mistake of riding into a box canyon and was caught and lynched. Miner's luck held, he escaped. With his share of the proceeds, Miner went east and lived for a few months in Onondago, Michigan, posing as a wealthy California mining man. He even got himself engaged to the belle of the town. But life in Onondago had a dull flavour compared to the west, where you had to ride like hell ahead of the sheriffs bullets. He left town one day without warning. A few months later he was back in Denver. Now he chose a partner; Stanton Jones, a reckless gun fighter and cutthroat. But the partnership didn't last long. They held up the Del Norte stage again, were chased and brought to a stand. Two of the sheriffs deputies were wounded before the posse was driven off. The partners split up. Jones was caught and given five years. Little Bill Miner, still lucky, was free. On November 7, 1881 he's back in California and with three helpers robbed the Sonora stage of $3,700.00 This time he wasn't so lucky for he and his lieutenant, Jim Crum, were caught and the gates of San Quentin slammed behind them for 22 years of a 25-year sentence. Miner came out of San Quentin in 1903 at the age of 60, shook hands with Warden Kelly and faced a brand new world. The old west was dying fast, and in all but a few isolated regions the railroad had superceded the stage coach; new states had entered the union, the telephone was commonplace, and the airplane was only twelve months in the future. Now some people think 60 is a good age to retire \u00E2\u0080\u0094 but Bill Miner didn't think so. Those fast trains that criss-crossed the west \u00E2\u0080\u0094 they had express cars didn't they? The little ex-convict studied the situation more closely. It was only a few months later that he held up the Oregon & Washington train at Corbett, Wash. The haul was huge, how big no one was prepared to estimate. But the railroads and express companies posted rewards totalling $12,000.00 But Miner noticed that in this swifter twentieth century when the take was bigger so were the rewards and the consequent police activity. Miner was 56 hotter than a sheriffs pistol. He slipped across the International Boundary into British Columbia, and, under the name of George Edwards, took up land. The polite and somewhat reserved little man was accepted at face value among the scattered ranchers. He kept to himself and ran a small herd of beef cattle. On one occasion (1904) he drove a small herd through the Hope Mountains and sold them in the little Fraser Valley farming community of Chilliwack. It's through this vast fertile valley that the Fraser River winds its way. The main line of the transcontinental C.P.R. line follows the north bank of the river. On his trip to Chilliwack with his cattle, old Bill Miner must have taken all this in, for he dropped out of sight for a few weeks. And during that time, a C.P.R. train was held up at Silverdale, not far west of Chilliwack, but on the opposite side of the river. It was the first Canadian train robbery and it netted three masked men $7,000.00. An intensive man hunt failed to reveal their trace, but one of the searchers - a veteran huntsman - gave the opinion after a week of tracking that the bandits got out of the Fraser Valley east over the Hope pass. It was a rough route, but Bill Miner brought his cattle over it. Back at Aspen Grove, Miner puttered around his log cabin. He was cheerful, his neighbours said that he'd made a little money on his cattle and was astonished to hear of the train robbery. Then in November, 1905, he was absent for a week or two; prospecting in the hills, he told a neighbour. During his absence a Great Northern train was held up just across the B.C./Washington border. Again there were three men on the job and they got $30,000.00. Some had their doubts that Miner was one of the trio. But the question is, if he got his cut of the loot why did he have to hold up the C.P.R. train near Kamloops the next year? Whatever the reason, when he held up the westbound Imperial Limited it netted him $15.00 and life imprisonment. He escaped after a year's imprisonment and went back to the States. He robbed another train, was caught and jailed. He escaped again and was never caught. To this day no one knows the ultimate fate of the little grizzled Ken- tuckian whose cold nerve and icy resolve made him the Dean of road agents in the passing of the old west. Here is the tale as pieced together from newspaper clippings: George Edwards lived with a friend Jack Budd, on a ranch on Bald Mountain. Princeton people thought he was a wonderful gentleman. He went to all the dances and parties. He always wore gloves when he was dancing so that he wouldn't soil the ladies clothes. At one affair, in Hedley, someone stole all the rubbers and umbrellas. He was most annoyed and wanted the culprit found and jailed. He always had money, but then people understood that he had mines around the country which he often visited and from which he got his money. It was a terrible shock to the residents to learn that the train had been robbed at \"Ducks\" a spot on the railway between Spences Bridge and Kamloops. Apparently Bill Miner left his horses hobbled in a field while he stopped the train. A farmer or rider came along, and seeing no one near the horses, let 57 them go. Bill Miner had to walk toward the spot where he had planned to meet Jack Budd with fresh horses. When he got to the spot, no one was there. Some of the horses had bolted on Jack Budd and after a long wait in which George Edwards (Bill Miner) did not come, he went home to Princeton. Another explanation is this. Jack Budd was a wonderful man with horses. No one had such a way with them. He seemed to be able to think like a horse He hobbled the horses for the night and turned in. In those days there were bands of men who would take horses and cattle and hide them (not steal them) and then come up to the owners when they were looking for them and offer to help look for the animals . . . for pay of course! They would search all day and then go to where they knew the animals were and \"find\" them. They would get paid for their work and ride off. Some people believe this is what happened to Jack Budd while he was waiting for Bill Miner. Being on foot, George Edwards couldn't get out of the country and so was caught. idF~\" Kelowna circa 1912. 58 A GAME OF POOL By H. R. Hatfield Harry Barnes had drifted into the Hedley camp, with his prospecting partner, along with the twentieth century. A gentlemen in every good sense of the word, he never found a big mine and certainly would never stoop to selling a prospect by subterfuge of any kind. He eventually went to work for the company running the Nickel Plate gold mine, became the storekeeper and through good times and bad, changes of ownership, shut downs and expansions, had in his keeping all the multitude of parts and pieces, machines and supplies, needed on hand by that considerable operation. He was meticulous in his person and his work. The Stores department ran so smoothly and quietly that it was taken for granted, like the passage of the sun, day by day. As Harry aged with the job, he did not become cranky, but maintained his constant obliging courtesy to all. It seems, though, that some trait in all of us does become more pronounced, as we travel on our pilgrimage. Harry became even more well organized, more meticulous as the years slid by. Finally the gold ran out and Harry, a bachelor to the last, retired to his immaculate little home and pleasant garden to spend his evenings with the latest in radio equipment, the long summer days in his well-ordered garden and the winter ones in reading and writing a few, alas too few, very thoroughly researched historical notes on the Nickel Plate and Boundary Country.1 His home was on a gentle slope with a pleasant view over the creek and village and to the warmly coloured cliffs above it and across the valley. No flood could reach it to tear and disorder the spotless grounds. The cliffs behind were far enough back so that no rockfall was likely to send a boulder crashing through to break the neat and well painted fence. His neighbours were old friends, fond of Harry for his own great worth and respectful of his neat and tidy ways. With no wife to call for periodic re-arranging of the furniture, no children to move things from where they belonged to where they didn't, one would have thought things were perfect, perhaps almost to the point of boredom. However, as I discovered, even here there was a reptile in the garden. It was a lovely spring evening, warm, fresh and peaceful, as I strolled up the hill to pay a call on Harry. The creek, not yet in flood, sang its proper song between its established banks. The setting sun, as it should, brought out the cheerful colours of the banded cliffs. Harry was working in his garden at a job which he explained could not be postponed, but I could help him if I wished as we talked. He was setting out plants. The variety of flower escapes me now but there were several boxes each labelled as to specie and colour. To one side was a pile of small fir boughs all of the same size. The boughs were to keep the direct sun off the plants for the next few days while they were getting established. As Harry carefully dug a hole and tucked in each plant precisely in the spot previously marked out for it I stuck a fir bough in the ground to shelter it. There was a little difficulty until he got me trained to place the bough correctly as to distances and angles but after a bit my work seemed to be satisfactory. We planted and sheltered and talked of mutual friends and old times until the sun went down and the gloaming came and the cool evening breeze came gently from the canyon. 59 Through Harry's garden ran a little spring fed streamlet. He had made a picturesque but ordered channel for it so that it took its proper place in the garden layout. In the course of this channel he had built two small dish- shaped concrete lined pools. One or both I think had lilies or other water plants and they were charming little pools. As we were planting away with only a few plants left to do there came from one of these pools a few tentative chirps and then the full-throated song of a bullfrog. Harry straightened up as though a cannon had gone off. He dropped his trowel and strode to the pool exclaiming, \"There's that damn frog in the wrong pool again!\" He scooped up the offender and placed him gently on the edge of the other pool. In a few minutes as we put in the last plant and bough a couple of blurps from the proper pool seemed to indicate that everything was in its proper place. However, after bidding Harry goodnight at his door, I stopped for a minute on the path between the two pools to look at the dark skyline of the hills against the still light westward sky. Something rustled in the grass, and when I looked down, there was the frog headed back for the forbidden pool. His gold and black eyes reflected the light from the window of the house and, as I looked, one amphibious lid slowly slid over the one nearest me and I imagined that there was a slight movement, as of an incipient smile, at the corner of the big mouth. FOOTNOTES 1 Articles in Okanagan Historical Reports by Harry Barnes - 12th - Early History of Hedley Camp; 13th - Reminiscences of the Okanagan; 15th - The Nickel Mine. Also see An Appreciation of Harry D. Barnes by Frank H. French, 16th Report. 60 LOGGING AND SAWMILLS IN PEACHLAND By Hamish C. MacNeill The late Dr. Gordon Whyte liked to tell of his arrival in Peachland as a small boy. His father was to be the first minister of the new community which had been established by J. M. Robinson three years earlier in 1898; a fine Presbyterian Church (for many years now used as the Municipal Building - hall, office and library) had just been completed and J. M. Robinson had reserved one of his best orchard lots on the upper bench overlooking the town- site for the Rev. W. Whyte from Winnipeg, for his home. This lot was 2V\u00C2\u00A3 miles by road from the wharf, and as the Rev. Whyte and his family drove their democrat along the rough wagon trail to it the second son, Gordon, then a boy of ten, was all eyes; what impressed him most, as it did nearly all the newcomers, were the magnificent trees which they passed by and under along their route. Although small compared with the coastal Douglas fir, these yellow pines loomed like giants to prairie people and indeed the pines growing in the rich spring fed benches, and slopes of Peachland in 1901, were as fine as any of their species to be found anywhere. The new settlers immediately saw that here at hand was a ready made industry requiring only a combination of men's muscles, horse power and steam power, to produce the raw materials necessary, first of all to build homes for themselves and then for the fast growing cities of the treeless prairies which they had just left. The pot of gold at the end of the rainbow which had attracted the settlers of 1898 was fruit production, so husky young men like Billy Miller, Slim Churchill and Ed Mclntyre who were the owners of teams of heavy horses were kept more than busy clearing land for the new orchards. However, in the following year Hugh McDougall (called \"Sawdust\" Mc- Dougall to distinguish him from the \"Post Office\" McDougalds) arrived from Moose Jaw and started to build the first sawmill on the lakeshore at the foot of 61 Lily Street in front of his own and his son-in-law, P. N. Dorland's property. So logging and lumber became Peachland's first stable industry and have so continued until today, when the successor to \"Sawdust\" McDougall's small floating mill was the modern, model enterprise of Trautman-Garraway Ltd., one of the most efficient mills in the interior and employing 65 men from the districts of Peachland and Westbank. Its logging operations extended out of the Okanagan watershed across the divide into the Nicola Valley which drains into the Fraser, and this is territory which in 1899 would seem almost half a world away. The history of Peachland's logging and sawmills since 1899 is a fascinating story; first of all there were the men engaged in it; many of them were great characters, all of them contributed much to the wealth of our Valley and of Canada, but most of them reaped small financial reward for their years of dangerous and back-breaking toil. Mention must first be made of Dave Lloyd-Jones who had established his sawmill in Kelowna earlier in the nineties; he frequently travelled, mostly on foot, to Trout Creek Point to court one of the Gartrell girls; the Gartrells were a pioneer family of the Okanagan and lived in isolated splendor at Trout Creek; he also had pre-empted land at what is now West Summerland and still called Jones Flat; so he frequently passed through what is now Peachland, stopping off to visit Harry Hardy, at that time almost the sole resident of the area. He must have noticed the fine stands of timber, their proximity to the lake and the consistently steep downhill grade to water, and water was always the ideal form of log transportation. By 1900 he had Arthur Day, who had also married a Gartrell daughter and thus became the founders of one of the Okanagan's best known families, his right hand man, organize the cutting of logs at Peachland. The district soon became and continued for many years to be the chief source of supply of logs for the Kelowna Sawmill. Indeed, hardly a year has passed since 1900 when a boom of logs was not waiting in one of the Peachland or Trepan- 62 ier bays ready for rafting and towing to Kelowna. Many stories could be told about the log booms on the lake, but one of the most interesting concerns an early Kelowna Regatta. The paddle steamer Okanagan, with the fabled Captain Weeks in command, had been chartered by the people of Naramata, Summerland and Peachland to take them to the big event; on the same day a large raft of logs was being towed from Peachland to Kelowna; it was a hot and thirsty evening and very slow progress being made, the crew of the tug decided they were missing a lot and that the bar of the old Lakeview Hotel would be a good place to be. They cast off their boom and hastened to Kelowna; they had probably done this in the past for no lake traffic was expected after dark. It was a black night and the Okanagan hit the logs at full speed. There was no rending crash but considerable apprehension was felt by the passengers; the Okanagan was designed to nuzzle into shallow beaches and she simply rode up on top of the logs. Although there are people still living in Peachland who were on this memorable pleasure cruise, there is no clear recollection of how Captain Weeks got his craft off the logs; the best memory has it that the Okanagan merely continued her noisy way, undamaged, across the entire boom. Billy Miller was the most famous of the Peachland loggers. He was a big redheaded and red-moustached man, who strode through the woods like a sort of Paul Bunyan and he became a legend in his own time. He had a special talent for handling men, and his loggers would do anything for him. Under his supervision vast quantities of logs moved steadily to the lake. One of his favourite tools was the loe chute of which he built several; the first one near Hardy's Lake, with its head roughly at the site of the gravel crushing pit on top of Drought's hill; when placed in it the logs shot straight to the lake without further handling. Art Dobbin (F.A.), founder of the well-known contracting firm, was Billy Miller's partner when this chute was used in 1912. It was this particular chute which carried the heavy Glen Rosa stand to the lake. The logs were hauled by horse-drawn wagons in the summer and by sleighs in the winter to the head of the chute. Billy Miller's longest and most spectacular 63 chute was south of the Deep Creek, close to the Greata Ranch pre-emption, was over a mile in length and was well designed and constructed. A blue trail of smoke from the heat generated by the logs as they hurtled down it was visible from Peachland; sand was used to slow up the logs on the fast places and tallow to speed their journey on the slow. This chute crossed the road at the Antlers beach and deposited the logs in Deep Creek bay; an earlier chute about a mile further south ended on a high bank above the road and the logs travelled with such momentum that they shot high in the air across the old lakeshore road (predecessor of Highway No. 97) to end with a mighty splash in the lake. Most of the young men of Peachland worked in the woods at one time or another, learning from such old and experienced hands as Jim Silver (his name survives in Silver Lake) and Buckskin Bill Burrows, an old time eastern logger, probably from the Ottawa. Many became highly skilled at their individual jobs. Emmet and Walter Shaw of Trepanier were kings of the cross-cuts and were regarded as the best sawyers in the country (Emmet did not return from the First World War). Great teamsters on the wagons and sleighs like Ossie Needham and Bob Laidlaw also did not return from Flanders Fields, as did others from the bush, like young Billy Dryden. There was a host of teamsters who followed their plodding horses up the long, steep skid trails of Peachland to come roaring back down them at break-neck speed, men like Ronald Reekie, Tony Chapman, Jack Thorne, the Topham brothers, George, Ted and Art., Jimmy McLaren and Gus Sundstrum, to mention only a few who seemed almost born to hold horse lines. Then at a later date there was Ray Harrington who, in his heyday, was a superb axeman. Nicknames of some of the loggers like Wild Goose Bill and Slack Line Smith, are still remembered and their real names forgotten. The loggers came riding to town every Saturday night. Two young Englishmen had just arrived in Peachland in 1912 to open a real estate and insurance business. To a rough logger, a greenhorn Englishman was an object of great sport, especially on a summer Saturday night. The loggers began to demonstrate their ability to do tricks on horseback and dared the newcomers to do the same, but Ward was equal to the challenge. Being fresh from an English Public School gymnasium, he could make acrobatic circles around the heavily muscled loggers, and it was the quickest way of gaining their respect and friendship. Batchelor and Ward returned to England at the outbreak of the war and their names live only in the painted gold letters of their safe which is owned by one of the Peachland businesses of today. But two products of the exclusive English public school system, Jack Thorne and Jack Wilson did remain. Jack Thorne, already referred to, was a big man, 6'2\", 240 lbs., and all muscle. He was as rough and rugged a man as ever followed a logging team. He went off to the first war and returned a Major, and to the second and came back a Brigadier General. Jack Wilson was just as tough, rough and ready. Before going overseas for the duration of the First War he had ranged the Trepanage Plateau (the name given on the maps for the high country behind Peachland and Westbank) as a trapper, and had acquired great knowledge of its wildlife and its trees. It was he, principally, who kept logging alive in Peachland during the depression years when the price of logs dropped to such unprofitable levels that even the great old time loggers gave up and moved into other fields. He did it on a shoe string and he was the main supplier of logs to the then struggling but later flourishing S. M. Simpson Mill. It was for him that Jack Garraway, a genius of the woods, first went to work, although he was raised in the atmosphere; his father, Cecil, having been one of Billy Miller's partners. Jack Seaton's is one of the success stories of Okanagan logging. In 1903 his father died suddenly and he found himself the family breadwinner and his life in the logging camps began in the Trepanier Creek bush at the early age of fifteen. He went overseas in the First World War and later moved to Winfield where he retired in comfortable circumstances in that community. Serious accidents were always part of the life of logging and mills. In 1903 Lou Hitchiners' load rolled on him at Robinson's spring, just above Peachland. He was carried to John Kerr's nearby barn and to all appearance had expired, but a fast rider was sent to Kelowna to bring back the new, young Dr. Billy Knox. At the recent celebration honouring Dr. Knox's sixty years in practice, a letter was read from Lou Hitchiner, still going strong, giving details of the accident and ascribing his miraculous survival to Dr. Knox's wonderful medical skill. The long Trepanier Creek valley and its benches was a great reservoir of logs, and a small mill was set up there as early as 1905. Walter Morsh who had owned an orange grove in Hollywood, California, before coming to Peach- 65 land in that year, was terribly mauled by a runaway saw at this mill. His family were forced to move with him to Kelowna so as to be close to Dr. Knox, there being no hospital then, and it was over a year before he was well enough to be moved back to Peachland. In order to meet the expected demand for boxes to contain the Valley's expanding fruit crop, 'Sawdust' McDougall moved his operation to about a mile south of Peachland to what is now called the old mill. Not a trace of this mill now remains, but Hugh Dorland, grandson of Sawdust, has in his possession a fine photograph of a thriving and extensive plant and one of which its builder must have been proud. It was in this box factory that Charlie Pope got a job tending one of the modern machines. Its blades revolved so fast as to be invisible, and Charlie was soon minus his right index finger. On recovering he was demonstrating to his friends on the same machine how his accident happened, when slice went his left index. That was the end of Charlie's mill career and because of this shortage of trigger fingers he was unacceptable for military service. He later carved out a successful life for himself in the Water Rights Branch. A lot of the romance of logging went out with the passing of the horses. Because of the rough nature of much of the terrain the horse lasted longer in the Okanagan that in most other horse logging areas, but their days were numbered and in 1954 when Bill Hewlett retired after a life in the bush, he took the last of the teams with him. In the hills behind Peachland and Glen Rosa there may still be seen the remains of Billy Miller's camps, crumbling log cabins with their attached hourse stables, and only imagination can bring back the intense activity that once went on around them. The singing of the cross cuts, the ringing of the axes, the pawing of the horses' hooves and the clanging of tongs, the noise of cant hook and peavy, and the shouting of directions to the horses. These first days in a new land and the men that lived in them were exciting and should be recorded, for they have gone forever. Vernon circa 1915. 66 THE COTTAGE Story of the Old Jacques' Home By Beryl E. Gorman In this year 1980 more and more people are searching for their roots in an attempt to understand what part the past has played in their lives and how it has shaped their present existence. Our first home always takes precedence in our thoughts and certainly this is true of mine. My childhood home, 'The Cottage' was a very special spot which was never spoken of as anything else in our family \u00E2\u0080\u0094 not a home, not a residence \u00E2\u0080\u0094 just 'The Cottage,' along with 'The Rock' behind it and 'The Creek' beside it. In later years it was spoken of as \"The Old Jacques Home.\" To be more factual, it was a brick cottage, modest in appearance and Okanagan colonial in style. It was a sample of architecture common to this area, built squarely like a log cabin with a teepee roof that defied the winter snows. It was situated at the junction of the Old Kamloops Road and Barnard Avenue in the present 3500 Block. Historically, it had little significance other than the fact that it was constructed on a portion of the first pre-empted land of the present city of Vernon. This land was owned by Vernon's first postmaster and agriculturist, Luc Girouard. He also introduced the first irrigation system into the south Vernon district by utilizing the water from the adjoining Swan Lake Creek. This flume passed behind the cottage, circled the rock and proceeded southwest serving a considerable acreage in what is now called West Vernon. It was called the Girouard Irrigation District. To be more explicit: The location of the cottage was unique and much of its charm was due to this particular setting. It was set back from the road in a grove of poplar trees. The rock behind it is of volcanic origin and was called a \"bubble\" by some people. It is a characteristic landmark to this day and formed a picturesque backdrop. The creek beside the cottage completed the picture of rural serenity and charm. The house was constructed in 1891 long before the present cement bridge crossed the creek at this point. Here, the historic marker indicates the spot where the early Indians and Missionaries crossed over en route to O'Keefes and Kamloops. Access came from 31st Avenue to the rear and building materials were brought in over a small bridge which survived the passage of time until the high water of 1920. This caused it to collapse and created the one and only flooding of the basement to my knowledge. Gideon Milligan purchased the property from Luc Girouard and contracted Richard Oschner for the construction of the cottage. Mr. Milligan was co-lessee of the Okanagan Hotel (of Hotel Fire fame in 1909) and was later the owner of the Victoria Hotel on Mission Street, now 34th Street. Mr. Oschner was the founder of the Spring Brewery in 1891 and co-owner of Vernon's Brick Yard, which existed near the present Pottery Road on Highway 6. Bricks from this source were used and were called slop-bricks. They were wet and soft in composition. Despite the fact that they crumbled easily, they withstood deterioration for eighty-two years. The foundation was constructed of large boulders of stone cut from a quarry at the base of the rock behind. This quarry provided stone for several pioneer homes in Vernon including All Saints' Rectory on 27th Street. The stone was set in mortar and through the 67 years I never recall any settling of unevenness of floors or door jambs. A covered verandah extended across the front of the house and along the creek- side. It was decorated by white posts with modified \"gingerbread\" trim. There was a certain natural beauty about this unpretentious brick home and a permanence which made one feel that it had always been there. A succession of tenants followed during the years from the mid-1890's until it was purchased by F. B. Jacques, pioneer jeweler, from Gideon Milligan in 1911. The following year his daughter, Edna Jacques, married William T. Gebbie and the young couple moved into the cottage. Here, I was born as well as my brother, Frederick William. In 1915 my mother died and my father remained in the cottage until 1920. At this time my grandparents, with whom I lived, decided to move into smaller quarters. So, in that year, along with their son George, and daughter Hazel, we moved back to my original home. As it happened it was to be my home for forty-odd years. A gradual transformation took place in the ensuing years. My grandparents were avid gardeners and it soon became a veritable beauty spot. The first transformation came through the chance passing of a professional English gardener by the name of Mr. Naggington. He stood on the cement bridge observing my grandfather's attempt at building a rock wall along the edge of the creek. Finally, he couldn't resist offering some friendly advice as it was not progressing too well. My grandfather's response was to the effect that 'if you know so much, you better come and do it yourself.' He did and was to spend weeks laying out cobblestone walls, terraces, walks and formalized flower beds. Then thousands of spring bulbs were planted, grass sodded and vines planted to soften the outline of the porch. There was a profusion of bloom the next spring and thereafter until the spring of 1956 one year after my grandmother's death. A particularly heavy frost the previous November took its toll and in the spring we waited in vain for the first bulbs to appear. It would have been heart-breaking for her had she still been with us. They had appeared regularly for over thirty years. A picket fence enclosed the front yard. This was replaced by a rustic one in 1929 and a rustic foot bridge crossed the creek by the corner of the house. All these touches further enhanced the natural beauty of the cottage. Below the garden area to the west was the old orchard left pretty much in its original state. Its significance was the fact that it had been planted by the aforementioned Luc Girouard and was the earliest known domestic orchard in this area. Along with four mulberry trees from France, the fruit trees were planted in the 1880's. They continued to bear fruit until they were removed by the present owners in 1973 or 1974. After my grandfather's death in 1938, my grandmother continued to live in the cottage until her demise on May 12, 1955. Johnnie Peters, a gardener for the City of Vernon, became her gardener after hours. Johnnie not only maintained her garden but enhanced the natural beauty of Poison Park with landscaping and the laying-out of lovely flower beds. He had the misfortune to lose one arm, but what he could accomplish with the remaining limb and one green thumb was utterly amazing. My grandmother spent many hours planning her garden with him and so it remained a source of pleasure for her. At the time of her passing, the property consisted of approximately four acres including the present Safeway property, the rock bluff behind and the orchard adjoining. The cottage had been close to my heart, and my husband 68 and I were able to acquire it along with a portion of the property from the Jacques Estate. Here we lived for another 20 years until 1975. In the interval Vernon expanded beyond belief and the business district slowly infringed upon what had been a quiet residential area. Traffic increased, the present Safeway store was built on the opposite bank of the creek and peace and serenity became a thing of the past. Finally, in 1971, the Jacques Estate agreed to the sale of all of the remaining property and reluctantly we agreed to include our portion. It was acquired by the City of Vernon and in 1978 the cottage was demolished, the rock partially blasted away and part of the creek piped-in to make way for a road link between 31st and 30th Avenues. Thus another landmark of the early days of Vernon became no more. And with it went a way of life that was leisurely, quiet and very pleasant. It is now a busy, noisy intersection in downtown Vernon. The rippling waters of the creek can scarcely be heard above the din. What was once a bird sanctuary and a stream where children played, fished and whiled-away the summer afternoons is just a memory. Although nostalgic and regretful at times, I did prefer to see our 'Cottage' demolished rather than to have it pass into a state of slow decay. So ended an era. NOTES Gideon Milligan first mentioned in Vernon News June 1, 1891 Leased Okanagan Hotel in 1892, Vernon News Contracted Richard Oschner to build cottage Construction commenced July 2, 1891 - Vernon News Microfilm Vernon Archives Richard Oschner - arrived in 1891 Founded Spring Brewery July 30, 1891 Also co-owner of Vernon Brick yard Vernon News microfilm Other dates mentioned from family files. 70 The Wood & Rabbit store at Lansdowne, 1! THE SAGA OF ROBERT WOOD By W. J. Whitehead As we contemplate the scene of our historical heritage, recognizing the exploits and antics of our colourful forefathers, we sometimes overlook the more obvious. Our subject is one who contributed much to the establishment and development of two important areas of British Columbia, but of whom little has been written. Robert Wood was born on March 11, 1841. His parents were Rev. and Mrs. Wm. Wood of Port Rowan, Ontario. His grandfather was Rev. John Wood of Swanich Hall, North Derbyshire, England, one of the finest county seats in the Midlands. Robert Wood received his early education at Norfolk County Grammar School. His ambition was to learn engineering. That desire not meeting with his parents' wishes, he remained at home for three years, assisting with the work of the farm. Coming of age in the early 1860's, a time when the call of the west was becoming most distinct, Wood set his course in that direction. He landed in Victoria on March 16, 1862. That same year he joined the rush to the gold- fields of the Cariboo, but like so many others, he gained much in experience but had little success. His next venture was farming just over the border a few miles in the Washington Territory. There he continued for three years but the lonely vigilante type of living was not to his taste. He then removed to one of the, at that time, disputed islands of the straits. There he continued in farming and stock raising for several years. He had discovered the market for food supplies so necessary to the gold seekers. It was more renumerative than his original goal as a miner. In 1872 Mr. Wood settled on the North Arm of the Fraser River. He re- 71 mained there for ten years, during which time he engaged in an intensive and high quality type of farming. Due to ill health, he sold his holdings in 1882, and seeking a better climate, he secured land and settled in the Spallumcheen district, of the North Okanagan. In 1883, he combined interests with Mr. D. Rabbit, who was a recent arrival from Nova Scotia. Together, they started a trading store. This was the first store in this area. It was built about seventy-five yards west of the old Mc- Quarrie farm house on Lansdowne Road. Previous to the establishment of this store, settlers would have to travel to O'Keefes, at the head of the Lake, or on to Kamloops to do their trading. There were living quarters in the upstairs portion of the building. These were rented by Mr. and Mrs. T. N. Hayes, recent arrivals from Yale. Mr. Hayes was engaged in construction work for the Canadian Pacific railway. Mrs. Hayes kept boarders, among others her two brothers, Mark and Roland Hill. A son, Newman, was born to the Hayes on December 23, 1884. On the morning of January 1, 1885, with the temperature standing at thirty degrees below zero, the building and contents were destroyed by fire. Mrs. Hayes, carrying her baby son in her arms, escaped through the snowdrifts to the home of Mrs. Wallace near what was later to be Lansdowne. There she was attended by Dr. Offerhaus, a recent arrival and the first doctor in the district. Her condition was such, that it was necessary for her to return to her home in Montreal for treatment, before she was considered well enough to return west. Mr. Wood and Mr. Rabbit suffered much financial loss from the fire. Their enterprising spirit was not dampened. A third partner, Mr. E. C. Cargill was taken into the partnership and the name of the firm was changed to E. C. Cargill and Company. The store was rebuilt, not in the same location, but a few hundred yards to the south east, where the hamlet of Lansdowne was soon to develop. More settlers were coming into the district and the business quickly grew into a very profitable venture. Mr. Wood did not confine his interests only to the mercantile trade. The buying and selling of land was a main speculation of the times. The completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway across Canada and the impending entry of the Shuswap and Okanagan rail line into the North Okanagan caused much activity in this venture. Mr. Wood and his associates secured a tract of land south-west of Lansdowne. It was wet and swampy, with a sandy ridge in the centre, known locally as the \"Island.\" It had nothing in its favour, other than location. While other land owners were attempting to drive a hard bargain with the railway company, Mr. Wood came to a satisfactory agreement with them. Subsequently, the townsite was surveyed by R. S. Pelly, P.L.S. Every alternate lot was deeded to Riley, Patterson and Company, the builders of the railway. Thus settlement commenced. Mr. Wood and Mr. Rabbit favoured the name of Aberdeen for the new town. Mr. Rabbit had been appointed the new Postmaster. The railway people wished to honour one of their financial supporters, hence the name of Armstrong was decided on. Mr. George Patchett is credited with building the first residence. This was followed by the construction of the Armstrong Hotel by Mr. T. W. Fletcher for Mr. Hugh Keyes. This hotel is still in operation. With the establishment of the new town, there quickly followed a migration of residents and businesses, including the little Anglican Church, to the 72 hitherto despised little upstart in the swamps. Lansdowne quickly became a ghost village. Only two or three families continued in their present homes. The need for more organized local government was soon apparent. The Municipality of Spallumcheen came into being in September, 1892, with Robert Wood as an elected member of the first council. His popularity may be noted by the fact that he topped the poll with 69 votes. The next three years was a very active period for Mr. Wood. He was concerned with the development and sale of his town property, also with the operation of the Wood and Cargill general store. He purchased more land holdings, including the Herman Witcher farm at Lansdowne, and there were other commercial ventures that claimed some of his attention. His name appears in connection with the proposed flour mill for Armstrong. This report was shown later to be only rumour, but there was involvement in planning a similar mill in Vernon. Because of failure to come to terms with the other principals in the venture, a Mr. Megaw in particular, an amiable contract was not completed. His position on the Spallumcheen Council required much of his attention. News items in the weekly press indicate that not everything was clear sailing. Mr. Burnette appears to have caused Council much concern with his closing of public roads with gates. Sources of information do not indicate Mr. Wood's ability to handle such matters in a diplomatic manner. Perhaps he was impervious to municipal abuse. This particular problem seems to have been one of many that came under his committee. He was quite often referred to in the \"Social News.\" In November, 1893 there is an item telling of his return to the district after visiting his mining interests in the South Okanagan. Earlier in the year, he had suffered a stroke, leaving some paralysis on the left side of his face. This caused some concern and resulted in various trips to Kamloops, Victoria and Vancouver. Eventually, he travelled to England, and, upon his return from there, there seems to have been an improvement in his health. In May of 1894, he is listed as a supporter of Donald Graham, candidate for M.L. A. In June of that year, he was re-elected as treasurer of his lodge. In October, he was selected for the grand jury of the Fall Assizes. In January of 1895, Mr. Wood had a letter published in the Vernon News. In this letter, he stated the facts and his arguments concerning the much-disputed flour mill project. This may have been the 'finale' to his activities in the Okanagan. Early in 1895, his interests suddenly changed to the Boundary Creek area, in the southern part of the province. With the fabulous mineral discoveries in the Rossland district, and similar claims all along the International border, mining was once again to hold public interest. This time, it was hard rock or quartz mining, rather than the placer type, that had first captured attention in the Rock Creek district thirty years previously. It will be remembered that mention has already been made of Mr. Wood's interest in mining. No doubt this was the forerunner of his shift of activities from the Okanagan to the Boundary country. Subsequently he purchased two sections of land on Boundary Creek. There he built a log store and named the site Greenwood. Following his usual pattern of operation, he began looking about for fi- 73 nancial participation. A company was quickly formed with partners George Arthur Rendell, Ralph S. Smails and C. Scott Gallaway. Their first efforts included the clearing of a townsite and the straightening of the course of Boundary Creek. Recognizing the advantage of being available as a supply centre to the miners, Mr. Wood and company quickly improved roads to the mines. Attention was given to Phoenix, Deadwood, Mother Lode, Copper Camp, Summit and Jewel camps. In 1898, the B.C. Copper Company was formed and a smelter planned. The Columbia Western Railway, branch of the C.P.R., was extended from Nelson to Midway. Greenwood was incorporated as a city in 1897. Mr. Robert Wood was elected as the first mayor. Improvements soon followed incorporation. Streets were graded, miles of sidewalks laid and water works installed. Telephone and electricity followed in quick succession. Greenwood became a modern city almost over night. Among other notable achievements, was the building of the Court House and the establishment of the first Supreme Court in B.C. This was the beginning of a most profitable and exciting era for the community. Greenwood was to continue at a frenzied pace for the next decade. Very quickly, large and imposing hotels and other commercial buildings were constructed. New homes popped up like mushrooms after a summer rain. The usual social and business life of a new and progressive city was the norm for the metropolis of Greenwood. During the relatively short period of twelve years, Mr. Wood had been deeply involved in the establishment and development of Lansdowne, Armstrong and finally Greenwood. He continued in this latter city for the remainder of his active years. There is a short note in the Boundary Creek Times of July 10, 1903, telling of his visit to Ottawa and to his old home at Port Rowan, Ontario. From then on, information concerning Mr. Wood becomes very scarce. Present day residents of Greenwood think he may have retired to Victoria during World War I. Mr. Summersgill, a former postmaster, knew Mr. Wood casually, but says he left the district before 1919. Mrs. K. Dewdney, another old time resident of the Boundary area, remembers Mr. Wood and thought he had gone to Penticton upon his retirement. During the early days of western development, Mr. Wood had made and left his mark in many places. He would now be in his late seventies. Perhaps it was his wish to quietly fade into oblivion. REFERENCES Biographical Dictionary of well known British Columbians, J. B. Kerr. History of Armstrong, J. Sera. Early files of the Vernon News , Boundary Creek Times Boundary Historical Reports. Okanagan Historical Society Reports. 74 The old Adelphi Hotel at Westwold, formerly known as Grande Prairie, offered a pleasant haven 85 years ago on the long journey to Kamloops from Vernon. ADELPHI HOTEL By Jean Touminen The journey to Kamloops from Vernon can be long, dusty and tiring. The traveller would be well-advised to break his journey by staying the night at the Adelphi Hotel in Grande Prairie. Well, of course, that applied if you were travelling in 1895. Since then there have been a few changes. The road from Vernon to Kamloops is paved and designated as Highway 97. Grande Prairie is now Westwold, and the Adelphi no longer accepts paying customers. It sits by the roadside, a large, weathered relic of another era, windowless, doorless, but an effective reminder of life in the early part of this century. In 1895, Walter Homfray, owner of a 640-acre ranch, built the Adelphi Hotel on his land in Grande Prairie and it became a major stop-over for travellers. At that time, there was a porch running around the bottom half of the building. Homfray added a store at one end and this was later run by Thomas Knight and his partner, E. W. Hoole. Mr. Hoole eventually built a store and post office on another piece of land down the road. KEEN HORSEMAN Homfray, who was a keen horseman, owned a dandy little race horse named Fancy Free. He built a race track behind the hotel, where he lived on the second floor. The track had a judge's stand, a grandstand and was the scene of very successful race meets, attended by people from many miles away. The Indians from the Douglas Lake area often came down and camped in the timber, joining in the meet, pitting their horses against ranch and breed stock. In 1911, Homfray sold the ranch and the Adelphi to an Englishman, 75 Colonel G. C. Whitaker. The new manager, A. P. Foster, lived in Kamloops but travelled out in his car, one of the earliest in the area, to check on the ranch. Whitaker came from England on the occasional visit, staying in Kamloops while he was here. In 1913, he built a new hotel and named it the Pylewell, after his home in England. By that time, Percy Cotton and his wife had been managing the Adelphi for two years and they moved over to the Pylewell, staying there until about 1916. For the next twenty years, the Adelphi was used only sporadically as a residence. RAILWAY BUILT By 1924, when the CNR was built through the area, it became necessary to settle on a name for the town, which would not conflict with any other place. Grande Prairie was duly changed to Westwold. Evander McLeod brought his wife and family down from the Robin Range in 1933 to lease the Whitaker Ranch for $400 a year and they moved into the old Adelphi. The McLeod family is an established part of the Kamloops area but relatively new to Westwold. Evander's son, Laverne, and his wife, Peggy, have since taken over the ranch and live next door to the old hotel. Their son, Scott, intends to carry on the ranching tradition. Laverne vividly recalls living in the Adelphi, more for the cold than anything else. \"When it was thirty below outside, it was twenty-five below inside.\" Originally built without plumbing or insulation, it left something to be desired when trying to make a cozy home. A major task each year was the cutting of enough wood to last the winter in the three stoves downstairs and one up. Water left in a pan overnight would be frozen the next morning. Linoleum covered the old floor boards which would freeze and crack. Yet, in spite of it all, Laverne's mother managed to keep the Adelphi a warm and hospitable place. BORROWED MONEY Eventually a neighbour got wind of the possibility of buying the ranch and put a deposit on it. Not wanting to lose the land, Evander went to Kamloops and borrowed $5,000 for a down payment. The McLeods now own 620 acres, the other 20 having been divided into roadside lots, accounting for many of the smaller homes along the highway. Evander and his wife lived in the Adelphi until 1953 when they moved to the Gordon place, built by one of the managers of the ranch during Whitaker's time. Laverne recalls the years when cowboys from the Douglas Lake Ranch would drive their cattle down to Westwold for wintering. They bought hay from around the countryside and fed maybe 800 cattle from Christmas on. Usually the men stayed in the Pylewell Hotel and spent some time with the McLeods. About 1939, the army went through with horses and stopped over by Pylewell, using it for probably the last time. There were horses tied to every post and fence in the area. April, 1943, saw the end of the Pylewell Hotel, as fire demolished it. The wind was blowing so hard at the time that shingles from the building sailed hundreds of yards down the road. Just a couple of years ago, the old store was torn off the Adelphi and now the hotel stands next to the barns, a grey, haunting presence linking the ribbon of asphalt carrying its steel and chrome vehicles, to the day of buggies, wagons and a horse called Fancy Free. 76 THE STORY OF THE FALKLAND STAMPEDE By Una Haller The Falkland Stampede is the success story of what one small community can do with total community involvement. The population of Falkland is five hundred plus. By the second day of the Stampede, which is always on the Victoria Day holiday, it has jumped to ten thousand or more. How did it all start? About the end of the First World War the pioneer families celebrated Victoria Day with a community picnic. They came by wagon, buggy and saddle horse. They came to visit and picnic, for a ball game, tug of war, and children's races. One year a work horse, unbroken to saddle, was ridden by young Eddie King on a bet. The following year they built a small corral. Two of the homesteaders, Henry Currie of the Falkland Ranch, and Tom Smith, brought some horses to town. After the picnic lunch, a jackpot purse was collected. There was no fenced area, and no pick-up men. The cowboy must ride his horse to a standstill. Sometimes the horse would run, and horse and rider would disappear into the trees at the edge of the clearing, or the cowboy would grab a branch and swing off. The Falkland Stampede was off and running. The early Stampedes were a great event in the lives of the people who made their own entertainment. The settlers came from miles around, to visit with neighbours they seldom saw. More riders came each year to try their luck. There were cowgirls too, who could hold their own with the men at steer riding. Sometimes there were horse races - about a third of a mile straight up the road! By 1939 it had moved to the present grounds. Each year more chutes, corrals and other facilities, including a covered grandstand, were added. In 1931, a Mrs. Beddoes taught Maypole Dancing to the Falkland school children. For the next thirty years the Maypole Dance was an integral part of the May Day celebration. It took place in front of the grandstand before the stampede. In later years, the schools of Falkland, Westwold and Monte Lake competed for a Rose Bowl. Each school set up their own Maypole. The little girls' dresses matched the streamers while the boys were handsome in white shirts and dark pants. The dancers performed intricate patterns, first unwinding, then rewinding the coloured streamers around the Maypole. The ceremony was presided over by a May Queen and two princesses, elected by their fellow students. The first May Day Queen was Adeline Fergason. By the early 1960's, stampede events were filling the whole day. The children's races and Maypole Dancing had to be held on a different day. Sad to say, the Maypole did not survive for long. Shortly after the professional rodeo circuit was established, the Falkland Stampede turned professional. Nineteen-sixty four was the year the community decided they needed a Rodeo Queen, to lead the parade and represent Falkland at other celebrations. Kathy Inskip was crowned as Rodeo Queen. The attendance continued to increase. So did the list of competitors, which now included such famous names as Mel Hyland, Jim Gladstone, Dale 77 Trottier, Joe Alexander, John Dodds and Brian Claypool. Now too, there were Brahama bulls and professional clowns on the program. Nineteen-seventy saw the stampede become a two-day rodeo. The Falkland Stampede had come a long way from the old community picnic. Credit for the smooth running professional rodeo must go to a few dedicated, hardworking people, who, over the years, have become very good at their job. But total community involvement on a volunteer basis is the secret of the stampede. The people of the community take pride in their own Falkland Stampede. Profits are used to pay the expenses of running the village, which is unincorporated. Preparations are now complete in the \"biggest little rodeo town in the world,\" for this week's Falkland Stampede. Under the direction of Falkland Community Association president, Cam Wilson, an army of 150 volunteers has mended the last fence, ordered the hot dogs, circulated posters and done the countless tasks involved in staging North America's largest and most successful two-day rodeo. Work begins as much as six months in advance for the show, which last year drew 18,000 spectators over two days to the tiny community of 450. This year is expected to be bigger still with 235 of the best rodeo competitors in the world competing for more than $13,000.00 in prize money. COMMUNITY EFFORT How does an unincorporated village, that is overlooked on most maps, stage one of the featured events of the professional rodeo circuit? The answer lies with the people of the area. The money that the Stampede brings in after all the bills have been paid goes directly back into the community to provide little extras that very few places of similar size offer. Last year, more than $10,000.00 in rodeo proceeds went to fund such community services as maintenance for the skating rink, ball diamond, community hall and youth centre, as well as to keep street lights burning at night and to run the local garbage dump. These people know that no one else is going to give them these services and they are not above putting in hours of work to see them maintained. Rodeo Manager Mervin Churchill says it is the fact that virtually 100 per cent of the labour that goes into the Stampede is voluntary. That ensures its growth and success every year. \"Other rodeos farm out moneymakers like the beer gardens to service clubs and have businesses sponsor the various events and then wonder why they don't make any money.\" It just has never occurred to the people of Falkland that they need professional help in putting on the show and they want to keep it in the family. The logistics involved in accommodating the huge crowds in such a small area would present tremendous headaches to organizations that don't have the community resources that Falkland has. Where, for example, do you cook the 700 pounds of roast beef that will be consumed by hungry spectators during the rodeo? \"There will be roasts in the oven at 30 different households over the two days to supply the meat for beef on a bun,\" says Wilson. 78 PARKING LOTS Residents are also allowing their fields to be used as parking lots and do their best to ignore the boisterous revelry of the celebrants. Area businesses are also gearing up for the weekend. Campgrounds and motels have been booked solid for two months. Stores have their stockrooms full to overflowing in order to meet the extra demand the influx will bring. \"I've ordered over $1,000 worth of cigarettes and $800 worth of pop as well as stocked up on canned goods and just about everything else,\" said Mel Gorgichuk, owner of the Kam Ver Lando Motel. \"I just hope it's enough.\" At the Cedar Inn Cafe, manager Dot King has been planning for the weekend for two weeks. In addition to ordering four times as much food as she normally would, she is hiring six extra staff members and extending her hours of operation from 7 p.m. to 9 p.m. But despite all this she knows she can't possibly keep up to the demand in her 50-seat restaurant. BUSINESS BOOMS \"We have to keep the doors locked most of the time and only let in cus- tomes as others leave,\" she said. \"Most of the time they're lined up right around the block waiting for a place.\" As might be expected, the local pub does a booming business as hot, tired spectators seek out its cool recesses for a refreshing brew or two. Bar Manager Ruth Wilson says she has ordered about three times as much beer as usual, to accommodate the crowd, but stresses that the patrons are there to have a good time and not cause trouble. \"We've never had any big hassle. It's just two days of a rollicking good time, you might say.\" SECURITY GUARDS Just to be sure that the \"rollicking good time\" remains just that, the two- man R.C.M.P. detachment will be bolstered by eight other members, from detachments throughout the area. There will also be several auxiliary members on duty and eight security guards from a private agency have been hired to keep an eye on things at events where the potential for trouble exists. Constable Andy Peebles, of the Falkland R.C.M.P. said he doesn't expect any real problems. \"The extra men are just for crowd control. We have no specific plans. It's just going to be business as usual,\" he said. He also warned that revellers that do get carried away can't expect any kind of break from the police just because it's Stampede time. It will be enforcement as usual. \"We'll be particularly looking for violations of the Liquor Act and Motor Vehicle Act,\" he said. 79 CHIEF ROBERT NEWTON CLERKE AND ELIZABETH JOHNSTON CLERKE \"THE CHIEF\" By Dr. A. S. Clerke Robert Newton Clerke was born on March 3, 1880 at Birch Hill House, Blarney, County Cork, Southern Ireland. He was the grandson of Richard Hungerford Clerke, Bealad House, Clonakilty and the 4th son of James Clerke and Mary Jane Shaw. He was also a descendant of Captain Charles Clerke, second- in-command of Captain James Cook's third voyage of discovery to the Pacific. (Captain Charles Clerke assumed command of the expedition on the death of Captain Cook at Hawaii in 1779.) Robert N. Clerke was educated at Carmichael School in Cork, and while a young, man managed his father's large farm after his father had passed away. In his early twenties, he joined the famous Irish Constabulary and remained with them until the spring of 1906, when he left the Emerald Isle to come to Canada. His boat docked in New York Where he made his way north to Chief Robert Newton (R. N.) Clerke. Montreal and heard the cry, \"Go west, young man, go west.\" He then travelled by train to Winnipeg, then to Regina, and finally to Calgary, where he worked for the Pat Burns Company. After a short stay with this meat company, he went to the state of Washington to visit his brother, Reginald, and from there to south-eastern British Columbia to work for the Crow's Nest Pass Coal Company at Coal Creek Colliery from July 1, 1906, to some time in 1907, when he joined the police force in Fernie as jailer. He was promoted to Chief Constable in 1909, a position he held until he resigned on May 13, 1911, to take a similar position in Vernon. It is interesting to note that Fernie, during the first decade and the early part of the second decade of this country, was an open, wild west type of town similar to Barkerville in the Yukon gold rush days. Mines in the Boundary and Kootenay Country were running to capacity, and within two miles of the city there were three great sawmills and numerous logging camps. In that city alone, there were eleven hotels and saloons, each with an open bar which never closed day or night. Those were the days when blackjack, tin horn gamblers, and professional poker players abounded. Pianists banged out tunes without a moment's silence throughout twenty-four hours, 80 while Sunday saw greater activity than any other day of the week.1 Another and even more sinister side of Fernie at that time was the infamous Italian Black Hand or \"Manu Nero.\" This gang, comprised of Ex- Sicilian Italians and organized from New York, practised extortion among its fellow countrymen and was feared next to death itself. The arrest of twelve ringleaders of the Black Hand was planned and carried out by Chief Constable Cook, with the assistance of his young Constable, R. N. Clerke. During the preliminary hearing of the men five of them broke jail, throwing the entire Italian population of that area into a panic. The trial had been going on for weeks, and every witness was given permission to carry a gun.1 In the middle of the night, some two weeks later, while patrolling a lonely section of the railway not far from the Montana border, Constable Clerke surprised the five men, captured three single-handedly, and held the other two at bay until help arrived. For this action he was especially commended by W. J. Bowser, then the Attorney-General of the Province. On the afternoon of August 1, 1908, a nearby bush fire spread out of control and razed the entire city of Fernie. As a result of this fire, the twenty- five prisoners in jail were released except for the twelve members of the Black Hand, who were handcuffed together and placed in a railway box car under the care of Constable Richard Bowen. Looting and crimes of all description were rampant in the city, and it was through the efforts of Constable Clerke and Constable Bowen, plus a greatly augmented police force, that some semblance of order was restored to the burnt-out city. (Constable Bowen later moved to Vernon with the Provincial Police Force and raised his family there.) For his heroic efforts in saving animals and people from the fire, Constable Clerke was presented with a gold watch by the city of Fernie. Inside the back of this watch is inscribed \"twenty year guarantee.\" It is now in the possession of the Chiefs younger son Paddy, and seventy-one years later (1980) still keeps perfect time. Early in the year 1911, Chief Clerke received an unmarked letter. Upon opening this letter, the Chief found only a clipping from the Vancouver Daily Province advertising the position of Chief Constable in the City of Vernon. He answered this advertisement, was successful in his application, and commenced duties in the City of Vernon on June 15, 1911. Chief Clerke never did find out who had mailed him that clipping. Chief Clerke's wife to be, Elizabeth Johnston, was born on October 10, 1889, in Recarson, Omagh, County Tyrone, Ireland. After completing her eduction in Ireland, she left home and went to London, England, where she worked as secretary for the manager of an export-import company. It was while here that she paraded with the suffragettes for what she believed in and what is so often taken for granted by women of today. In 1911 she left the Old Country to come to Vernon. Her uncle, James Lyons, had lived in Vernon prior to this, and on his return to Ireland gave such glowing reports of the Okanagan that his niece could not resist the temptation to come to Canada to visit her younger brother Andrew, who had arrived in Vernon some time before. James Lyons had considerable land holdings in the Vernon area, not the least of which was the area where Poison Park is now situated. James Lyons was on the first City Council when the city of Vernon was incorporated 81 in 1893. Elizabeth Johnston's first job in Vernon was as secretary with Megaw's Store, then situated where the present Bagnall Block is now located. Robert Clerke and Elizabeth Johnston were married on Tuesday, July 15, 1913, at St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church in Vernon. Best man was Dolph Browne, well known business man in Vernon who also was educated at Carmichael School in Cork, Ireland. Mary Postill of the Postill Ranch in Kelowna was bridesmaid. It is of interest to note that Dolph Browne proposed the toast to the bride at the Clerke's youngest daughter's (Nora) wedding thirty-two years later. For his wife and future family Chief Clerke built a large house, which is still standing today at 1501 - 35th Avenue, Vernon. During the next twelve years, Chief and Mrs. Clerke had five children, two sons and three daughters. It is difficult to ascertain who was on the police force in Vernon at the time of Chief Clerke's arrival from Fernie. It is known that Constable Edwards was Acting Chief and resigned when Chief Clerke arrived. Others on staff at that time were Constable Clark and Constable Moffat, while Thomas French was added in May, 1912. The military training camp at Vernon during World War I demanded strenuous efforts from the Vernon City Police Force. The task of policing the several thousand soldiers at the Vernon Military Camp, within the confines of the city, fell to Chief Clerke and his constables. At one time during the war, his efforts saved one of the military policemen from a lynching, by a crowd of one thousand angered soldiers. After the war, Chief Clerke's interest in ranching was renewed. Little by little over the next twelve to fourteen years he acquired land, chickens and cattle. His fierce spirit of competition led him to the philosophy of \"second best not good enough.\" He started breeding and showing Rhode Island Red Chickens with great success. He showed birds from Chicago to San Francisco and north into this province, winning numerous awards and trophies. He sold fertilized eggs from Record of Performance hens and cockerels all over North America. With his family growing in age and number, the Chief bought a milch cow. Soon one cow led to two, and within a few years a sizeable dairy and beef herd was located around the house and newly constructed barns at what was then called North Street East. He gradually eased out of poultry, and in 1932 purchased his first purebred Herefords at a dispersal sale in Alberta. His uncanny ability to pick out top animals quickly resulted in his coming away from sales with some of the best animals in the country. One particular cow, registered as Panama Lady 6th, was undefeated at the Toronto Royal, Canada's largest Agricultural Show. In fact, this cow was never beaten in the ring. She was supposed to be past her breeding age when the Chief purchased her, but he managed to baby her along and she produced four more calves. The registered herd finally increased until he had two herds on the show circuit and, together with his ever-increasing commercial herd, he possessed about seven hundred head. By this time, land purchased and leased amounted to about 15,000 acres. As there was never enough hay to feed these cattle, most of them had to be driven to Falkland, Westwold, Enderby and Armstrong to winter. 82 Part of the Hereford herd. The Chief and Mrs. Clerke named their enterprise the N. C. Ranch and there were many highlights during their years of raising, showing, and selling registered Herefords. In March, 1938, their second daughter, Mary Isabelle \"Molly\" Clerke, showed and sold her Grand Champion steer at the Kamloops Fat Stock and Bull Sale. The purchaser, Safeway Stores, bought the animal for the all-time record price of 3K per lb., giving Molly $252.00, less sale expenses. In 1939, the N. C. Ranch, with two groups of show stock on two separate circuits, won eighty-nine ribbons at Armstrong, Kamloops, Vancouver, (P.N.E.), and Victoria. Included amongst these ribbons were four grand champions, three champions, two senior champions, one reserve champion, one junior champion, one reserve grand champion, five reserve champions, twenty-eight firsts, twenty-six seconds, thirteen thirds and five fourths. Among these were both the male and female B.C. bred Supreme Grand Champions of British Columbia. Quite a record for the Chief and Mrs. Clerke who had only been in the registered Hereford business for seven years. Undoubtedly the culmination of the years of dedication, hard work, and singleness of purpose occurred for the Clerkes in March, 1940, when a thirty- month old Hereford bull, Panama Fairfield, sold at the Annual Kamloops February 8, 1931. The milk cows in the foreground and the range in the background. Horse barn in background with cattle shed on three sides. Notice pigeons on the cow barn. 83 Bull Sale for $1,050.00. This beautiful animal was purchased by the Douglas Lake Cattle Company and commanded the highest price ever paid for a Hereford bull at this prestigious sale. Chief Clerke was very active in the B.C. Hereford Association and served as its president in 1937-38. In 1973, this Association started an honour roll plaque, honouring the pioneer B.C. Hereford breeders who had contributed significantly to the provincial cattle business. In 1974, Chief Clerke's name was added posthumously to this plaque. During the many years of ranching, Mrs. Clerke worked alongside the Chief doing much of the paper work in connection with the registration of animals. The preparation of entries for shows, and the exacting work of transferring registration papers when animals were sold was left to her. During the haying season there were seldom less than fifteen hired men to cook for, plus her own family of seven. She was an extremely well-organized woman, and always kept her kitchen clock twenty minutes fast so she would be ahead of the constant rush and work. It was seldom during these busy years that there weren't several pots or pails on the large kitchen stove cooking up some special concoction of the Chiefs order, as he gave preferential feed to special animals, ensuring that they be second to none. So, not only did she have her own family and hired men to feed, but also some of the animals found fare from her kitchen stove. Because of ill health, Chief Clerke was forced to retire from the Vernon City Police Force on May 31, 1936, at the age of fifty-six. At that time his term of office was believed to constitute a record in Canadian Police Annals. The policing of the City of Vernon was taken over by Provincial Police, and the three young constables in the persons of Mew, Garven and Quinn, who were trained by Chief Clerke, were added to the Provincial Police Force. Beside the Chiefs great ability to judge chickens and cattle, he had a great love for nature. He knew the names of most of the birds and wild flowers indigenous to the Okanagan Valley. During the last two years of his life when he was mostly bed-ridden because of heart and respiratory problems, he never tired of hearing about wild life or what was going on in the outside world. The Chief was a great sportsman and keen hunter. He was a longtime member of the Vernon Fish and Game Club and was on the committee that introduced pheasants to the Okanagan. Once a year he organized a huge hunting party that started at 5:00 a.m. with a large breakfast at his house, cooked by his wife. Then, either by car or horse, depending on roads, they went to the hunting grounds where one and all were told what do to and when to do it! These were the days when pheasants were plentiful and there were many good shots and good dogs. It was a delight to watch these hunters and splendid dogs working. Few shots were missed and all birds dropped were retrieved. Everyone would gather at lunch time to eat a hearty lunch, again prepared by the Chiefs wife. At the end of the day, all would again gather in the Chiefs house to partake of a gourmet dinner prepared by Mrs. Clerke, with the Clerke's two elder daughters Kathleen and Molly, serving table. Beautiful days in this beautiful valley. One of the men in this hunt was Tommy Hyland, Manager of the Over- waitea, and a good Irishman. Tommy's keen sense of competition made it hard for others to get the game he did, and he always had an excellent dog. 84 Jim Edwards, the City Clerk, was another ardent hunter. Hugh Heggie, City Magistrate, did not like walking too much, so he hunted the flat country. Two of the best duck shots were W. S. Harris, owner and publisher of the Vernon News, and Dr. J. E. Harvey, a local physician. As Dr. Harvey had a bad leg, he preferred duck shooting and seldom did he or Mr. Harris miss their birds when a flock came into view. Chief R. N. Clerke with trophy. Chief Clerke had a reputation for being hard but fair, and on finding a juvenile in trouble his question always seemed to be \"what would your parents think if they knew about this?\" His philosophy seemed to work well, for there was very little juvenile delinquency or vandalism in Vernon. Of course youngsters in those days had lots to do, as most people had a milch cow and some chickens, or a wood and coal furnace, all of which in themselves required constant effort. The Clerkes were probably one of the first couples to have a summer \"home\" on the lake. This home, consisting of a large tent, was located on the north arm of Okanagan Lake on Indian Reserve property and was of the most rustic nature. Cooking facilities were primitive, water had to be hauled from the lake. There were no hot water facilities nor bath tubs, and of course, no refrigeration. These were difficult days for Mrs. Clerke and it is doubtful if she really enjoyed the \"luxury\" of a summer home. Each Sunday at camp the family trekked off the eight or ten miles to church on horseback and buck-board. All of the Clerke children had numerous pins and yearly bars to signify so many years of going to Sunday School without ever missing a Sunday. Indeed, their youngest daughter, Nora, went for fifteen consecutive years without ever missing a Sunday. Chief Clerke was a staunch member of the Methodist Church and his wife of the Presbyterian Church, and when the union of these two churches took place in 1925, they were strong supporters of the United Church of Canada. 85 Chief Clerke was also a member of the Masonic Order and was active in Miriam Lodge No. 20 in Vernon. After retirement, the Chiefs health continued to deteriorate. In 1939, he was forced to bed and had to contend with running his large and valuable herd of cattle from the confines of his bedroom. For a man so dedicated and active, this was a most frustrating position. His second daughter, \"Molly,\" had full charge of the show circuit that year and the training by the Chief paid off, for the championships and ribbons still poured in. Fortunately, the Chiefs health rallied a bit and he was able to be in attendance at the Kamloops show when his very special bull sold for the record price in 1940. Little did he know at that time, when the bidding reached $1,000.00 and he had to go over to the corner of the ring, lean on the railings, remove his hat and wipe his brow, that he had only sixteen months to live, and that the \"empire\" he had so carefully and painstakingly accumulated in his lifetime would collapse around his family. Chief Robert Newton Clerke died on July 16, 1941, at the age of sixty- one. The crushing responsibility of the management of the entire N. C. Ranch fell heavily and suddenly on the shoulders of his wife, an onerous job in normal times but an almost impossible job in wartime when labour of any kind was so difficult to get. She prevailed upon Mr. W. A. McMorran of the famous Harper Ranch in Kamloops to allow his elder son, Melvin, to come to Vernon and act as herdsman until a dispersal sale could be effected. With the exception of the Chiefs favourite horse \"Duke\" and one milch cow, the entire cattle herd was sold at auction on June 9, 1942. This was the end of an era and a sad day in the annals of the Hereford industry in British Columbia. Elizabeth Clerke managed the affairs of the N. C. Ranch with great vigor until the dispersal sale of the cattle. She then had to face the task of selling the many parcels of land. About one-third of the range land, commonly called the N. C. Range, was expropriated by the Federal Department of National Defence in 1942. The last piece of land did not sell until shortly before her death on December 31, 1975. The large old house on 35th Avenue was sold in 1969 when she moved to the less rigorous confines of an apartment in town. It is interesting to note that the last parcel of land, comprising some two hundred acres, has recently been resold to the British Columbia Government, and in May of 1979 it was dedicated by the Provincial Government as the site of the new Okanagan College Campus in Vernon. Included in the curriculum at this College is to be a faculty of Agriculture. Such an establishment will be an everlasting memento to the agricultural enterprise of the Chief and Mrs. Clerke. The Chief was a stern taskmaster to all of his family, and his old creed of \"second best is not good enough\" he tried to pass on to his children. Chief Clerke and his wife Elizabeth created a small empire in this valley in difficult times during the depression, when so many families had little to eat. Although times were difficult and luxuries few, the family always had good food on the table and suitable clothes to wear. It must be remembered too, that the Chiefs starting salary on the Vernon City Police Force was only $125.00 per month. Two strong-willed and dedicated people, both focused on the same 86 enterprise and each with a strong belief in God and their fellow man, were convinced in their minds that anything was not only possible but also very probable. They carved their own niche in this valley and their legacy was the love, affection, respect and admiration of those whom their lives touched. BIBLIOGRAPHY The Vernon News, July 4, 1936. The family scrap books were also used to great advantage. However, most of the clippings do not acknowledge the paper from whence they came or the date printed. OK Mission School, 1936. 87 Editor's Note: The following article was written by Richard Mellish in 1965. The bracket notations were added by his daughter, Marjorie Glaicar. It is now known as Grandview Flats. HISTORY OF GRAND VIEW FLAT, NEAR ARMSTRONG By Richard Mellish I am Richard Mellish; I was born in Prince Edward Island in 1890. When I was 6 years old, my folks moved to Kelowna, British Columbia. Two years later, we all moved to what is now called Grand View Flat. My father, Thomas Mellish, first rented a half section of land from a man named Mr. Wilson, and took up farming there. There was a log barn and a log house on the premises at the time. We lived there for quite a number of years, in fact I grew up there. (These buildings were on the Page Road, on the left side, just on the brow of the hill.) As Grand View Flat grew and prospered and became quite an important place, I too grew up with it. I have watched the changes year after year right up to the present day. I'll explain how Grand View Flat got its name. One day when Mr. Wilson was at our place, he took me for a walk up on the hill back of our house. We climbed up on a high knoll and stood there looking across the country at the view. He stood there and stared for some time and then he said, \"Such a wonderful view \u00E2\u0080\u0094 such a grand view.\" He just couldn't get over it; this Mr. Wilson was from Victoria and said he'd never seen anything like it in all his travels. On returning to the house he told my father he was going to call this Grand View Flat. My father thought it a good idea \u00E2\u0080\u0094 so all their correspondence was addressed, Grand View Flat, Armstrong. My father spoke to the postmaster, Mr. Jim Wright, about it and from then on that's what this area was called. At that time I felt very honoured to be beside that \"great\" man when he named a district. Grand View Flat starts about six and one-half miles south-west of Armstrong. On the east we have the Otter Lake district, on the south we have the Indian Reservation and Okanagan Lake, on the west is the highway between Kamloops and Vernon, and on the north is Grand View Mountain. It is an upland plateau of about 3,000 acres with fertile, black sandy soil, rolling and hilly, but not steep describes the \"flat.\" In the early days it was always open, covered with bunch grass and sun flowers. There were poplar groves here and there in the low areas. On the east fringe there was a stand of timber (fir and pine); in fact some of these trees are still standing today. When we first moved here in 1898, there were just five families, besides ourselves; Mr. George Page, Mr. Frank Eden, Mr. Albert Evans, Mr. Montgomery and Mr. Shiell. At that time there was a lot of land broken up and put into crop and farmed on a large scale. They raised grain, early potatoes, cattle and horses. In those days there were no cars, trucks, tractors, telephone, or radio; and television wasn't even heard of. Everything you had to do was done with horses. Working the land, hauling crops to town, any place you wanted to go or anything you wanted to do, depended solely on the horse. So you see it was very important to raise horses, and they had to be broken to the harness or to ride. Therefore all the farmers and farmers' sons were good horsemen and teamsters. In those days we worked a full ten hours in the fields, following 88 a team and walking plough or other machinery. In the evening there were always chores to be done for a couple of hours. In the morning we rose at five o'clock as we had to look after the horses. There was no such thing as a coffee break in those days; three good meals a day and that was it. The wages for farm hands was $25 to $30 per month. In harvest time the going wage was $1.50 and board for a ten hour day. Generally, on a Saturday afternoon, the farmer hitched up a team to a wagon, with boards across the wagon box for seats, and took the whole family to town to get supplies for a week or two. All the kids liked to go to town for the change. The grocer always put a bag of candy in extra for the kids. My, how times have changed, no free candy today. There was no piped water on the flat at that time, no electricity and no inside plumbing. The farmers all had wells on their property, and when these went dry they had to haul water from the small creek on the Indian Reserve (possibly Irish creek). Lying to the north-west of the Flat was Round Lake and Round Lake range, a wide open bunch grass country for miles and miles. Government land and Indian Reserves hadn't any fences, just free open range, open to anyone. The farmers for miles around turned the cattle and horses they weren't using out to pasture in the spring and rounded them up in the fall. There were bunches of wild horses and Indian ponies roaming in these areas. Sometimes a bunch of us young fellows would ride out there and corral a bunch of wild horses to practise riding and roping them. We usually did it on a Sunday, much to the dislike of our parents. On one Sunday when we were going home from an exciting time at the old corral, we dared each other to go to Round Lake for a swim. After we finished, one of the lads decided to take his horse for a swim. He mounted and got out a fair distance from shore but got into difficulty. The horse reared over backwards and both were drowned. (This man's name was Teddy Austin and he was Don Austin's brother.) It was a very sad, sad day for us and we surely got lectured for breaking the Sabbath and there were no more Sunday rides for us for a long time. As a rule we went every two weeks to church in the Otter Lake School House. (This was one of the rural schools and was situated at the junction of the Corkscrew road and the Otter Lake road, but was about 300 or 400 yards into the lower field.) This school was central for many children; the Grand View, Larkin and O'Keefe children all went here. Most of them walked to school, except the O'Keefe children who drove to school with a horse and buggy or a sleigh. The teacher generally boarded at the O'Keefe Ranch. A student minister held church services twice a month in the school and there always was a good turnout. One thing about those old timers, they were all honest and their word was law. A promise and a hand shake bound many a deal as good as on paper. For example, you could tack a $10 bill on your gate post in full view of anyone passing by, and no one would take it because it wasn't his. How long would it last on your post today, I wonder? There was a flour mill in Armstrong in the early days, so the farmers took their grain in there to sell and also to have it ground for their flour and porridge. The flour sacks were of white cotton, thus very useful for making garments and underwear. The nearest doctor was in Vernon, twelve miles away from our place. One night my mother took very sick and we needed a doctor. My Dad saddled 89 up a horse, his fastest, and went for Doctor Morris in Vernon. The doctor came in a horse and buggy, and as it was late, Dad told him to pick up a neighbour lady, Mrs. Jim Shiell Sr., to guide him to our place. The night was so dark the doctor could not see his way going up the Corkscrew road (it was very narrow in those days), so Mrs. Shiell tied her white apron on her back and walked ahead of the horse. In this way they arrived safely at our place. The only lights we had were coal-oil lamps and lanterns. Many things had to be thought out. One cold winter night an old batchelor, Frank Eden, came home well after dark. He lit his fire and shut the oven door, stoking up well as it was cold. Next morning he opened the oven door to put in his biscuits, and found he had roasted his two cats. He was quite deaf so did not her them \u00E2\u0080\u0094 hard on the cats. The harvest was slow hard work, all done by horses. The grain was cut with three horses in a binder, then stooked. The threshing was very costly as the steam engine had to be pulled from place to place with horses; it also needed wood and water. The separator had to be moved in the same way. There were six stook teams, one tank team, and many of the workers came on horseback \u00E2\u0080\u0094 making well over twenty horses to feed and water. Now for the men: there were six teamsters, one tank man, one engine man, one separator man, four field pitchers, two band cutters, two men to feed the separator, three men to attend the grain when it was threshed, and two to fork the straw away \u00E2\u0080\u0094 making twenty-two in all. All these men had to be fed by the farmer. The farmers' wives cooked and prepared for days ahead and served two heavy meals plus tea in the afternoon every day. When the harvest was all in and the potatoes all dug and the fall plowing done, the farmers could relax a little more during the winter months. Of course they had to cut their wood and tend the stock. To make an extra dollar, some farmers cut ice on Otter Lake to supply the town of Armstrong. (The ice was cut in blocks and loaded onto sleighs and hauled by horses to town, in very cold weather.) Other farmers (not many on the Flat) had timber on their places so they cut logs and hauled them to Armstrong. Logs cut and delivered to town were worth $7 or $8 per thousand feet. Other farmers cut cord wood \"to keep the wolf from the door.\" However there seemed to be more leisure time, as we did a lot of visiting from house to house. The families gathered for cards and dances, and surprise parties were quite common with the guests always bringing along their own fiddler. It was all old time dances, the Quadrille, Waltz, two-step, schottische, minuet, three-step, four-step, highland fling, and many others. We would go to town or to Salmon River by the sleigh load. Often when a few couples met at a home they would spend the evening around the organ singing hymns and songs of the times. One thing I can say there was no drinking at those parties. I am speaking about times of 1912 \u00E2\u0080\u0094 times have changed. As there was no water on the flat yet, in 1906 a few farmers decided to pipe it from Coyote Creek, on the west side, a distance of about four miles. It was a lot of expense and hard work, but from that time on things began to improve a lot. In 1908 people started to come in and buy land. Mr. William Brown (Bill Brown's father) was about the first to buy a piece of land - others followed. My Dad bought a half section from Mr. William Montgomery Sr. in 1908. The Wilson property my Dad was living on was cut up into smaller places. In 1910 Dan Reiswig, Chris Reiswig and Mr. Rottacher purchased it. 90 (That would be the Old Gill Picul Poirier places.) In 1910 and 1911 more Reiswigs and their grown families came, also about this time Mr. Sticle, William McLeod and Dan Hirschkorn. The Evans place was sold then too, as many people flocked in. They were mostly Seventh Day Adventist people, so they built the church in 1910 and a school in 1914; these buildings are still in use today. The new-comers mostly went into potato growing. Hundreds of acres were put in and thousands of tons were harvested and hauled into Armstrong to be shipped out. I have seen as many as fifteen teams and wagons lined up, waiting to be unloaded in Armstrong. A little later quite a number planted orchards. For a while most of the entire Flat was in fruit trees - quite a sight to see at blossom time. For a while I think they did fairly well by their orchards and then the prices fell. Severe winters followed, killing a lot of trees, resulting in the orchards being pulled, so the new-comers went back to growing more potatoes than ever. The prices were from $20 to $40 per ton (that was for early ones), and the late ones were $10 to $12 per ton. After the First World War there were a number of Return Men settled on the Flat; Mr. Halliday, Mr. Raines, Mr. Millard, Mr. Shute, Mr. Bradford, Mr. Moore, Mr. Hamilton. (They all settled on the south road on Soldier Settlement Land; later they got an unfair deal and lost the land.) The C.N. Railroad was put in across the flat in 1919 and 1920 from Kamloops to Vernon (really to Armstrong). From that time on the Flat really was settled. They also grew large acres of watermelons and cantaloupe. People did fairly well on Grand View Flat on the average; later years they grew alfalfa hay and asparagus. All these products were grown with no irrigation at all. When we first moved to the Flat in 1898 there were six families, now in 1965 there are over 50 nice homes all with lovely gardens and flowers. They are wonderful people and friends on Grand View Flat, truly a beautiful place to live. Anything added in brackets are notations by Marjorie Glaicar, Mr. Mellish's daughter. OK Mission Store, 1936. 91 Editor's Note: The following article was transcribed from a tape made by Foster Whitaker in August, 1978. MR. FOSTER WHITAKER Interviewed August 18, 1978 Hello everyone, on August 8, 1978. My name is Foster Whitaker born April, 1908. I am really not a very old-timer as Dad and Mother came out to Vernon in July, 1910 from England when I was two years old. I have one brother, John, who is semi-retired and works part-time for the Parks and Recreation Board of Lac Lejeune out from Kamloops. All my grandparents lived in England. On my Mother's side, her brothers and sisters were school teachers and her father, who was raised on the border of Scotland, was a School Inspector. My Dad's side of the family were all farmers, although some brothers went into business when they left home. Dad was one of a family of 14 and mother was one of 7. Dad, when 23, settled in North Dakota, U.S.A. In 1895, his brother and friend died so Dad returned to England. Then with two other brothers he went through the South African War of 1900 for three years. In July, Dad and Mother and I came to Vernon because they had friends there who wrote telling them about the district. We all came to Armstrong in the late fall of 1910, where I later passed twelve grades of school. Dad cleared the land with the use of powder and horses, then he farmed till 1948. He retired here until 1964 when he died at the age of 92. The road adjoining his place was named after him. Mr. T. Aldworth was my elementary principal and Messrs. J. M. McLeod and Hurst were the high school principals while I was there. Some of those who attended school with me were Ken North, Alan Brown, Harold Naylor, Melvin Binkley, Ken McKechnie, Albert Horrex, Ken Nash, Ralph Pelly, Douglas Murray, Harold Chambers, Alan Sheardown. In the late fall of 1910 Dad bought 34 acres of land east of Armstrong which was a part of Chambers property. His house which still stands was built by Fred Heathcough in 1895. Dad's 34 acres were all virgin timberland except 4 acres of clear land. I was interested in sports and won the mile race at the Okanagan Valley Track Meet for Armstrong in 1926 and 1927. The latter was in record time. Being very fortunate I drew a ticket from a hat, in 1921, which permitted me to buy a Jersey heifer which later became an official world record producer for butter fat. I enjoyed Chamber of Commerce work and served a term as president, at the age of 28. I was elected to become a member of the Municipal Council. After serving eight years on the Council which were not consecutive, I served ten years as Reeve for the Municipality of Spallumcheen. During this time, which I believed was the most important advance, was the drilling of the well beside Crozier Road, which later became known as Larkin Well. The capacity was tested at 400 gallons of domestic water per minute. Another well was drilled on Gus Schubert's property about 2 miles from Otter Lake with a capacity of 800 gallons per minute. Both wells had been put to good use serving water districts within the Municipality. Crown Zellerbach Plywood and Sawmill were established on land which resumed as the Industrial Park by the municipal council just south of Crozier Road. The Timber Preserves Limited established a metal culvert plant joining 92 Crozier Road which was the fourth one in Canada at that time. A road paving plant was established by Spallumcheen Council which concluded the highlights of Council during my term of service as Reeve. I recall when about one hundred ninety-nine feet south of the present fire hall there was a very large building. I should say that was on the west side of Okanagan Street, there was a very large building about forty by one hundred feet with a standard square pitch gable roof. In it lived possibly over one hundred Chinese. There were other Chinese buildings right to the corner north of there and one around the corner to the west. Opposite the corner to the east was a large house known as the Trussler house which was also occupied by Chinese. When the peak of Chinese population was reached there were more Chinese over 21 years of age than there were whites in the same age in Armstrong. They produced practically all the vegetables grown for market and Armstrong was famous for celery and was known as the \"Celery Town.\" Nearly all the bottom land around town was planted by the Chinese in the absolutely straight rows of celery, cabbage, onions, lettuce and other vegetables were a perfect sight to behold, nothing like it today. One reason why the Chinese stopped growing vegetables was that when the Canadian-born Chinese went to school here and grew up they began to realize how they were being treated. When they were paid 15 1914 holding the same position with the Associated Growers of B.C. in 1923 and held that position until his retirement in 1966. In addition Mr. Kinnard served on the directorate of the Okanagan Federated Shippers' Association from 1943 until 1965, being Vice-President from 1947 to 1953 and president from 1953 until 1965. He was awarded a life membership in the B.C. Fruit Growers Association in 1962. My father, Kenneth William Kinnard, passed away on July 21, 1978 after a long life in which he contributed much to Vernon and to the Okanagan Valley. He was born in 1887 at Burnaby, Ontario, a community that was little more than the general store and post office owned and operated by his father. Here, in the Welland-Port Colborne area about Lake Erie, he and his two brothers grew up. What childhood they had must have been brief, as we were told no tales of boyhood fun, but we do know that as a little boy, he was required to help in the store. His particular task was to transport the mail to and from the Wainfleet station. It seemed a long way to the boy who went by horse and wagon. My grandfather later sold this store, moved his family to Wainfleet, and opened a farm equipment business. My father said that he operated it himself while still in his teens. We do not know when he made the move, but he finally left home to live with an aunt in St. Catherines. Here he took a business course which enabled him to leave the family enterprises. In the early part of this century he moved to the Okanagan in the hope that the reportedly dry climate would benefit his wife who was in poor health. Unfortunately, she died shortly after his arrival but he decided to stay. Somehow he sensed that in this developing valley with its still readily accessible lakes and woods, he would find the life he wished for and the recreation he must have longed for as a boy. His first employment was as timekeeper for the Summerland Supply Company, a firm constructing a portion of the Kettle Valley Railway. With the job completed, the company moved on and he decided not to accompany them. Rather, he commenced work for the fruit industry, first in Summer- land and later in Vernon. He married Miss Alice Richmond on February 28, 1918 and they were to celebrate their 60th wedding anniversary in 1978. They made their home in Vernon and raised five daughters here. His knowledge of the fruit industry was recognized far beyond the valley. He served a time on the Horticultural Council of Canada, and when the government considered alterations in the laws governing 'taxation of cooperatives,' he presented a brief for the fruit industry of the Okanagan. He was active in community affairs and was a member of the BPOE 122 (Elks) from 1920 to 1940 and was exalted ruler in 1922, 1923, 1927 and 1929. The Elks Carnival and Elks Flag Day were annual events during these years. My father made the arrangements for the rental of games of chance and was completely involved in the effort and outcome of Carnival Nights when the Scout Hall was transformed into a \"Gay-way\" thronged with people out for a night of fun. The Elks Flag Day was completely devoted to the enjoyment of the children of Vernon and involved sport events (racing, etc.) with prizes and free treats to all. A parade to Poison Park featured the waving of flags by the school children on their way to participate. It might be added that all received a flag \u00E2\u0080\u0094 patriotism and citizenship being highly lauded. There were many families who enjoyed a better Christmas in those depression years because proceeds from these events provided hampers for the needy. Shortly after the construction of Vernon's Arena in 1937, he became Chairman of the Arena Commission (1938 - 1939). He planned its functions, one of which was an exhibition hockey game with the Bralorne team as visiting stars. One of the firstlce Shows was planned and it was arranged that skaters with recognized ability would come to augment the fledgling members of Vernon's First Figure Skating Club. Later there was a fancy dress skating party with what seemed a multitude of prizes. When the ice went out what better way to start the summer season than to lay a floor and promote a lacross game between the Indians and Salmonbellies from the Vancouver league. He served on the Vernon Board of School Trustees (1930 - 1936) and pressured for money required for the badly needed Secondary School which was finally built in Poison Park. As another Board was in office at the time of construction, he seemed to feel he had had little part in it. He was a member of the Vernon Jubilee Hospital Association for eight years and served as President from 1945 to 1952. His was the responsibility of day-to-day decision making during the initial part of construction of the present building. When he retired from civic duties, it seemed that he had finally provided something much needed and lasting for his city. He was always active in civic affairs. I do not think he realized how much his efforts enriched the life of his fellow citizens, but his ability to organize provided much in entertainment. Through all these years his participation in sports increased, and to this he brought the same dedication and ability he had for everything he did. To him there was no greater thrill than to watch the culmination of a perfect play, be it his or another's. It did not matter what, if it were sports or athletics, he enjoyed the match. He considered attendance at the British Empire Games in Vancouver as one of the highlights of his life. One had only to see the many framed life membership certificates he had in his study to realize how broad his interests were. Yet finally, with advancing years, he withdrew even from his curling and bowling. And what of his family? With them this busy man shared what I think was his greatest pleasure \u00E2\u0080\u0094 the out-of-doors. Together we fished the streams and lakes, picnicked on the shores, hiked through the woods and climbed the hills. We learned to watch for wildlife and to thrill at the sight of a bird soaring or the eerie call of the loon across a still lake. I shall always remember the autumn day all seven of us climbed up the back of Blue Nose Mountain, to sit at the top for lunch, surveying the lovely valley that was home. What the little 123 boy in Ontario had lacked, he gave to his family in abundance. A little late to be considered a pioneer, he was a man of his time. That time when life's pace was slower and there was much for men to do. His contribution was great. Surely he would rank high on a list of All Time Good Citizens. He left with \"Life's Work Well Done.\" \ /&\ 124 I Can't Mooe a Mountain While you're so many months away the miles loom between us like a mountain This barrier that keeps us apart keeps us from touching yet you touch me still. Here the still water flows slowly down two lonely faces in search of each other. This distance, like a stopwatch times our patience ticks away our memories and sets the mood for the moment of our love. I can't move a mountain I haven't the strength, but I can endure the months of crumbling and breaking that it takes for the mountain to become but a mere pebble that needs only to be kicked aside. KIM LeCLAIRE 125 THE HISTORY OF KALEDEN by H. W. CORBITT With the assistance of Ron King and the helpful co-operation of a number of pioneers and residents of the district. Special thanks to Verne Simpson, of Oliver, for material supplied in starting these records. Also acknowledgement to the Okanagan Historical Society Reports for data. 7a/V/Vc /o a/ No. 1 Penticton Indian Reserve 1. Gillespie House 2. Barn 3. House 4. Community Hall 5. Cemetery 6. Robertson Point 7. Packing Plant 8. Barn Blacksmith Shop Cook House 9. Hotel 10. Store 11. Post Office 12. Arnott Barn 13. Worgan Cabin 14. Sickle Point 15. Banbury Point ^kaha ///\u00C2\u00AB-*/'\u00C2\u00AB. frfo*M [_ a \u00C2\u00A3e S/Jklie. La.Ke. OkiKr>ia-Cc*.A/ \u00C2\u00A3\u00E2\u0096\u00A0<*//<, 127 ^J\aleden r\oad \"There is a road by Skaha Lake The cautious driver will not take, So narrow, steep and high in air And dangerous as an open stair, He turns aside to easier grades Through stands of pine in crimson glades. But you who would behold the face Of beauty in her dwelling place, And know that she is often found Within the peril guarded ground, Loving the fearless who have shown A spirit steadfast as her own. Take the Kaleden road and dare The danger for the glory there, Beauty will meet you as you fly Enraptured between earth and sky, And her own ecstasy impart As guerdon to your faithful heart. The spell of her enchanted ways Shall be about you all your days, With the old thrill, as you recall The loveliness that held you thrall, And bless the stars that bade you take Kaleden road by Skaha Lake.\" -Bliss Carmen. 128 JAMES RITCHIE Founder of Kaleden 129 C^arlu esDuuA In beginning these records a brief reference should be made to the Indian, who before the coming of the white man, was lord of all he surveyed, a seemingly happy and carefree mortal living contentedly on the plentious bounty of nature. There have been indications of Indians using the lake frontage of Kaleden as a camping ground in the early days. Mr. Corbitt can remember a picnic party from Penticton finding some thirty arrow heads at the base of an old pine stump on the point now the property of Mr. John Pearson, also some have been found at different places on the townsite. Old Chief Edwards of the Penticton Band once told Mr. Corbitt that Skaha Lake had no bottom and that it was bad water due to many evil spirits. Probably this belief started from the many rumblings on winter nights when the lake was frozen over and was one of the reasons why the Indians never used it as a means of transportation. No doubt the expansion and contraction caused by warm days and cold nights was responsible. Old timers remember one winter in particular that the rumblings were so bad that they were unable to sleep nights. This little lake has had several names\u00E2\u0080\u0094\"Lac du Chien,\" \"Dog,\" \"Lower Okanagan,\" and \"Skaha,\" the last one is the most attractive, and no doubt permanent. Let us hope so. For a number of years up to 1917 a band of Nez Perce Indians from the Colville Resrvation in Washington made their yearly trips, sometimes through Kaleden, on the way up to the Coldstream Ranch for hop picking. It gave a new comer a decided thrill to see seventy- five to one hundred of this band with their families pass through the village. The males wore long hair generally in two braids hanging over each shoulder. They were distinguished by their narrow faces, high cheek bones, hooked noses, and piercing eyes. The Indians here as in other places wanted what the white man had to trade and the white man wanted the Indians' furs\u00E2\u0080\u0094so came the Fur Traders. A long time ago in the year 1811 a small body of Americans travelled through the Okanagan Valley to the Thompson River 130 The History oi Kaleden country. They were the first white men to use the land route connecting the Fraser and Columbia watersheds. After 1826 the overland trail through the Okanagan Valley was regularly and constantly used for a period of twenty years. The Brigade Trail from Fort. Okanogan where the town of Brewster, Washington, now stands followed the east side of the Valley to the head of Osoyoos Lake where it crossed to the west side, climbing the hill to where the mining camp of Fairview later existed, then passed on via Myers Flats and White Lake, either swinging west via Twin Lakes or north via the Junction Ranch. No doubt this meadow was a favourite camping ground. Both trails reached Marron Valley continuing on to cross Sheep Creek at its junction with Shingle Creek and then followed up this creek crossing Trout Creek to Okanagan Lake near Peachland and on up the west side of the lake then swung in a north-westerly direction via Grande Prairie and Monte Creek to Fort Kamloops. The Okanagan being more or less open country the Brigades did not stick to only one trail\u00E2\u0080\u0094horse feed no doubt had an influence on this. Campsites were from fifteen to twenty miles apart where grass and water were available for horses. A pack train of those days would consist of from two hundred to three hundred animals, seventy-five or more of which would be laden at a time with furs on the outgoing trip and on the return journey with supplies and merchandise for barter with the Indians. Each horse carried two packs or \"pieces\" weighing from 80 to 90 pounds each. Where the Fur Traders went eventually settlement followed and as far back as 1875 the cattle of Tom Ellis of Penticton roamed the hills of Kaleden. In the 1880's according to some old timers, a man named Shoemaker lived on what is now known as the Junction Ranch. Whether he was a squatter or pre-emptor there is no record, however, that he was the first white settler is the consensus of opinion. The records show that Richard Hynds, an Irishman, pre-empted these 320 acres in 1891 and received the Crown Grant in 1899. Soon after acquriing this property he built a two storey frame 131 Early Days house and a large log barn (which is still standing and in good repair) near the forks of the roads going south to White Lake and Okanagan Falls. For a number of years this was a stopping-off place for freighters going to and from Penticton and the mining camps to the south and east. In 1898 Mrs. Hynds died, so the following year he decided to take two of his children back to Ireland, the eldest girl going back to New Zealand, where the family lived before coming to the Okanagan. He sold his holding to a Basel Lawrence who had previously come from England to learn ranching with George Barkley (the cattle king of Summerland). Later Lawrence pre-empted 320 acres east of this property. Dugald Gillespie, a native of Thamesville, Ontario, came out to the Fraser Valley in 1891 via the Ozarks in Missouri, stopping a short time in Oregon and Washington. After the flood in 1894, he moved his family up to Okanagan Falls and in the spring of 1895 he pre-empted the home property together with other parcels of land. He found an old fellow who had built a small log cabin but was pulling out for the States, and wanted $10.00 for the work he had done and the few articles he was leaving behind. Today these properties are known as Gillespie Ranch and Gillespie Flats. He built a two storey house which is still standing near the highway between Kaleden and Okanagan Falls, also several small sheds and a short distance to the west planted a small orchard of mixed fruits. His son writes that \"the nearest post office was at Penticton, however, the Snodgrass stage between Penticton and Greenwood passed our place twice a week, so by hanging a flour sack out near the road with our outgoing mail, the driver would pick it up and return the sack with our mail the next day. \"My three sisters and I went to school at Okanagan Falls. In order to get the Government Grant, the school had to maintain an average attendance of seven pupils, so my youngest sister, age two, was enrolled and taken to school every day.\" At that time there was only one other white woman between Penticton and Fairview. Indians visited them on several occasions and told them that they were living on Indian land and should go. However, he made many friends among the natives, and lived very peacefully with them all. 132 The History of Kaleden He operated a number of four and six horse freight wagons to Fairview, Camp McKinney, and Greenwood. However, most of his freighting was done to the Nickel Plate mine following its discovery, hauling most of the mining machinery as well as that for the stamp mill of the \"Daly Reduction\" at Hedley, also return loads of copper ore concentrates to Penticton for shipment to Tacoma. He sold his holdings to James Ritchie in 1909, and moved to Moose Jaw, Sask. In 1900 the first irrigation system in the district was developed by Gillespie, a five foot earth dam was built at the foot of Marron Lake, which received the spring run off from Aeneas Lake, together with a continuous flow from Marron Creek. The stored water was then available for at least one good irrigation during the early summer. The water followed the old creek bed via the Junction Ranch to a point some five hundred feet south of the Gillespie house where it went underground coming to the surface again on the Waterman property, now owned by Mr. Jack Petley of Penticton. The holdings of Mr. Douglcs Dewar known as \"Banbury\" were part of a pre-emption taken out in 1895 by R. J. Cheeseman, and for many years the point was called after him. About the same time a retired India Army officer by the name of Worgan pre-empted between 300 and 400 acres south along the lake, and as far as can be found out built the log cabin that was still standing and used during the earlv days of Kaleden history. Worgan did not like work, so spent a good deal of his time in a flat bottomed boat out on the lake reading, sleeping, and cooling off during the heat of the summer. One day he overslept, and was rudely awakened half way over the Falls. His cries attracted some men nearby, who rescued him. Mrs. Worgan managed the Snodgrass Hotel until they moved to the mining camp of Greenwood. In 1900 John Arnott arrived from England to learn ranching with Lawrence, a distant relation, who now owned the Junction Ranch. After a time he decided to get land of his own. So in 1902 pre-empted the balance of the 1,078 acres south of the Worgan property. After living here for three years and using the Worgan cabin, he abandoned it and moved to New Jersey, U.S.A. His brother, Warwick, having recently arrived from the Old Country, relocated the land, living in Worgan's cabin. Later he added a barn just south of the cabin. 133 Early Days In 1906 he went back to England and while there he had considerable correspondence with James Ritchie, who wanted his property offering first $400.00, then $700.00, and eventually $1,000.00 before the purchase was finalized. Having left home in a hurry, he nailed a notice on the cabin door\u00E2\u0080\u0094\"Will be back in ten minutes\"\u00E2\u0080\u0094on his return three months later, the notice was still intact. With the purchase money he bought out D. M. McDougall's half interest in the stage line of McDougall and Hine, who had the mail contract. He also bought an interest in the then partly finished Alexandra Hotel at the Falls. Later he drove the stage between Penticton, Fairview, and Oroville, Washington. He is now living in Penticton. 134 The History ol Kaleden 1910-The first Cadillac car in the Okanagan. Front seat- Jim P.itrh,C driver, J. Goupel. Rear seat: Jim McGraw Ken Hogg *' 1910-Three old timers: Dave Lapsley merchant; Jack Stevens, carpenter; Seaman Hatfield, post master. 135 ^Jhe (J->irth of ^J\alecLt en So it was that the early settlers had come to think of the bench lands above Skaha Lake as a camping spot for weary men and horses, or as a range for cattle or even as offering possibilities for dry farming, but it remained for Jim Ritchie to look across the parched hills and visualize the orchards that could materialize if water were supplied. Mr. Ritchie had come to the valley from Pilot Mound, Manitoba in 1903 and had purchased and subdivided 320 acres into what is now known as West Summerland townsite. By 1905 he was looking around for further development opportunities and he found the spot here on the western shores of Skaha. Over the next year he managed to purchase in the names of his brothers, Tom and Will, of his wife, Margaret, his father-in-law, J. C. Finday, his secretary, Alex H. Stevens, and friend, John Burny- eat, the lands pre-empted by Cheeseman, Worgan and Arnott. The holdings of Gillespie and Lawrence, he purchased himself. Altogether he acquired some 3,000 acres, and by 1908 plans for subdividing and for construction of an irrigation system were well advanced. Up to this time Ritchie's new development had been given no name but in the spring of 1909 a contest was held and on April 24th the winning name \"Kaleden\" was chosen. It had been suggested by Rev. Walter Russel of Toronto who combined the Greek word \"Kalps\" meaning beautiful, with the name of the Biblical orchard. The prize\u00E2\u0080\u0094a lot in the new townsite. Of today's residents, Mr. H. W. Corbitt was the first to set foot in Kaleden. He recalls his first visit in May of 1909\u00E2\u0080\u0094\"a party of us drove down from Summerland\u00E2\u0080\u0094the Hatfield and Anguin families, the Hayes girls, George Christie, Jim Harrison and myself, coming south by way of the Gartrell ranch, then up on the bench where the Experimental Farm now stands. From there we more or less followed what is now the K.V.R. right-of-way and continued south, fording Shingle Creek near where the little Indian church now stands, and along Skaha Lake to Kaleden, camping at the north end of the townsite near the old log cabin. The three days that we were there we enjoyed splendid fishing, catching Kara- 136 The History oi Kaleden loops trout up to seven pounds\u00E2\u0080\u0094a grand holiday. F. H. Latimer, the surveyor, and his two helpers, Bob Hilton and A. S. Miller, were the only people on the townsite, living in tents where the hotel now stands.\" During the summer and fall of that year, Jim Ritchie accepted from prospective buyers a deposit of $50.00 for each five acres desired. The man making the first deposit was guaranteed first choice when the survey was completed and the land put up for sale. Each successive person making a deposit, was given a corresponding numbered choice and by the time the lots were put on sale in November 1909, a total of thirty-five of these \"choices\" had been purchased and on the appointed day some thirty or more future orchardists could be seen ranging over the Kaleden bench lands, shovels in hand, testing the depth and texture of the soil on various lots. It was a day of excitement, suspense and ofen of disappointment as those well down the priority list had to stand by while the fortunate ones with earlier choices made their decisions. From that point on the lots were sold in a more conventional manner with the price being $240.00 an acre except for a few lake- shore lots. Added to this was the cost of water shares at $80.00 an acre bringing the price of a five acre lot to $1,600.00. IRRIGATION CONSTRUCTION The matter of guaranteeing water for thirsty land was of course the crux of the whole project. Mr. Ritchie had promoted the Kaleden Developemnt Company, with the capital obtained chiefly in London, England, and the largest task confronting the company was the construction of an irrigation system capable of meeting the needs of the area. Water rights were obtained on Shatford or Sheep Creek and the first stage of our present irrigation system was started in 1908. The water was taken from Shatford Creek by means of a diversion dam and crossed the valley at Allen Grove through cm inverted syphon of wood stave pipe. From that point it was conducted by ditch and wooden flume to a point on Marron Creek, one and a half miles west of the junction of Highways No. 3 and No. 97 where a concrete intake was built. Below the intake ditches and flumes could not be used because of the hilly nature of Kaleden, and the only alternative was a system of pipes for distribution. While much more expensive, it gave Kaleden a year around water 137 The Birth oi Kaleden supply whereas most of the neighbouring communities had to store their winter's supply in cisterns. The pipe used was made of Douglas Fir staves, wound with heavy tempered steel wire and covered with pitch and two thicknesses of burlap. It was built to withstand 300 pounds pressure and varied in diameter from two to eighteen inches. Some of the original pipes lasted for over thirty years before being replaced. Tom McAlpine was brought in by Ritchie in the spring of 1909 and placed in charge of all construction. He spent most of his time overseeing the work from Shatford Creek to the intake and placed Harry Corbitt in charge of some twenty men digging ditches in Kaleden in preparation for the actual pipe laying the following spring. Most of the workers were recruited from the Penticton Indian Band and this was an instance where Indians worked hard for long hours and apparently liked it. The pay was $2.50 for a ten hour day and attracted men from Penticton and Okanagan Falls to supplement the Indians. There was also a sprinkling of hobos\u00E2\u0080\u0094who would stop off for a week or ten days' work on their way to winter in Spokane's famous \"Jungle.\" Among the latter group was an old veteran called \"Pegleg.\" He had lost his leg above the knee and had a typical \"Captain Silver\" wooden stump with a ring at the bottom. The story was told that a number of years before he had been out with some of his buddies and having consumed more liquid refreshment than was good for him, was on his way home to his shack in the early hours of the morning, singing at the top of his voice, when his peg leg slipped through a knot hole in the wooden sidewalk. At daylight he was found striding around in circles, still singing and his leg still stuck in the knot hole. Another of these Knights of the Road who worked digging ditches at this time was \"Three Fingered Scotty.\" Although not noted for his integrity, he had somehow managed to borrow ten dollars from Mr. Corbitt under whom he was working. The day he quit he approached Harry, pack on back and said genially, \"Goodbye, boss. I am not going to embarrass you by offering to pay back the money you lent me,\" and he was well on his way to Spokane before his astonished foreman had recovered his aplomb. The work was pushed ahead so that planting could be done the following spring. One of the pieces of construction completed 138 The History oi Kaleden that fall of 1909 was a concrete-lined ditch at the north end of Marron Valley designed to prevent the soil washing down a steep slope. This was one of the first pieces of concrete irrigation ditch built in the Okanagan and with minor repairs each year, it is still giving satisfactory service. The first system installed served about the same area as that which comprises the present Irrigation District but it was intended that a larger area would be served later. Consequently in 1911 a branch line was started which would supply water to Gillespie Flats. With this in mind a cumbersome and antiquated ditch digger was purchased from the Coldstream Ranch to replace hand labour. However, it proved to be useless for the job and this together with a lack of funds and the uncertainty as to an adequate supply of water brought the extension to a halt, with the branch line reaching only as far as the Junction Ranch. As a result the Gillespie subdivision\u00E2\u0080\u0094some 618 acres\u00E2\u0080\u0094was abandoned. There were many changes and additions to the water system over the years. The old Gillespie earth dam at Marron Lake was re-inforced and a new dam with a cement core was erected at Aeneas Lake in 1912. Later still when the Kaleden Development Company ran into financial difficulties, Kaleden was constituted an improvement district under the provisions of the Water Act. The first trustees of the Irrigation District were Col. Ewart, Frank Harrison, Secretary, F. W. King, R. D. Mutch and H. W. Corbitt. In 1922 Robertson and partners were given the contract to replace the old earth dam at Marron Lake with one having a concrete core, increasing the height from five to 25 feet. By 1931 the orchards were in full bearing and it became evident that Shatford Creek could not be counted on for an adequate supply of water. Consequently the system was extended by diverting water from Shingle Creek and erecting two dams to form upper and lower Brent Lake. Interior Contracting Company was given the contract for this work completing it in 1932, providing an increase of one thousand acre feet. The most radical change in the system since that date has been in the orchards themselves, where since 1946 the sprinkler has replaced the older furrow method. As Kaleden has always had a pressure water system, the change was easily made and at pre- 139 I a o ct. s. c a 1 i J\u00C2\u00A3 fe. \u00C2\u00A3 - 1 c \u00E2\u0080\u00A2 E 01 T3 e 5 St- .'c 0.2Q i. EQ u 01 ? Eh C 1 B c e 2 ; ~ c S si T c g .a, s w as \u00C2\u00A3 2 n X EC o \u00C2\u00A3 En u \u00E2\u0080\u0094 \u00E2\u0080\u0094 < u a \u00C2\u00A3 c ~ & = Cf! &- u TM = 2 s s | S^ B 0 \u00C2\u00A7 < 55 \u00C2\u00A30 a. >3 . 3 c \u00C2\u00A3 01 s \u00E2\u0080\u0094 m O 3 - di? Oi c J c c c s c a c > 0) o > 0) TM H r be - 5 tsc 1-3 * < E B c \u00C2\u00AB ^ a; c \u00E2\u0080\u0094 < Oi c c- s \u00E2\u0096\u00A0a *- Z, c. s < ~ s QJ ft, 0 h >-5 J c en J 7 01 c\" d oi o \u00C2\u00A3 c \u00E2\u0080\u00A2J w z 2 'CD Oh X \u00E2\u0080\u0094 s u CO id >> 01 0) - ft, z d CO J c 01 0 5 - J > ^: ft, < 1 Qh \u00E2\u0096\u00BA^5 3 as fc. c _o > 3 El ^ 'J c C 3 s \u00E2\u0096\u00A00 o ft, \u00C2\u00A3 01 c - H cr. kf-< I* ft, \u00C2\u00A3 < 140 E-*.2 CO ^ o CC tag to C 3 be 3-B u c c o Oi > \u00C2\u00A3 oi oi r O ^ \u00C2\u00A3 B 5 \u00C2\u00B0 CO 01 JO. il CO'* 141 The Birth oi Kaleden sent over ninety per cent of the orchards have adopted this method which has resulted in a saving in water used and has given a more even distribution of moisture. Jim Harrison and Hartley Simpson were the first water foremen for the upper system while N. K. Simpson served in that capacity in Kaleden, followed by Tosh Rawkins and Jack Swales who served for over twenty years. Since the coming of cars and better roads, one man can now cover both the upper system and the Kaleden area. PLANTINGS In December 1909 when winter put a halt to the construction of the water system, Jim Harrison and Harry Corbitt took a nine week course in Horticulture at Washington State College in Pullman. With this training they returned to Kaleden in the spring of 1910, going into partnership with A. S. Hatfield and taking on the responsibility of planting and caring for some two hundred acres. The land had to be cleared, plowed and fenced for this was still country. Then came the job of planting the 27,000 trees and nursing them through the first summer, irrigating by pail for months until flumes were built. The first year's planting was chiefly for private owners but in 1911 the Kaleden Development Company decided to plant up the acreage as yet unsold and Ritchie sent in H. H. Whitaker as foreman to supervise the planting and care for this land. Over a period of three years many thousands of trees were planted with the orchards extending as far north as Banbury Point. For the first five years all the trees planted commercially came from the Washington Nursery Company. Their agent was Walpole Thomas Jones who was universally known as \"Nigger\" Jones because of his very pronounced southern accent. A very familiar figure throughout the Okanagan, he was responsible for bringing into the valley some of the finest nursery stock ever handled. On a certain winter night in 1914 \"Nigger\" Jones was on his way down the lake to Summerland where he lived at the time. The Steamer \"Okanagan\" usually docked at the head of the wharf but on this particular night there was a gale of wind blowing so she pulled in on the lee side. 142 The History oi Kaleden Having met some friends that afternoon, Nigger's eyesight was not too good. In the past he remembered one walked off the boat and straight up the dock to the hotel. This time, instead of turning to the left, he kept straight on across the dock and plunged into the icy water of Okanagan Lake. The mate rescued him by catching hold of his coon skin coat with a long pike pole that had a hook at the end. In spite of being submerged and half drowned, he still kept a firm hold on his little brown leather satchel and refused to let go of it. All the way up to the hotel he kept yelling, \"Leave me alone. Stop pushing me around,\" although no one was touching him. No doubt after his watery experience, he derived comfort and warmth from the contents of the little brown bag after arriving at the hotel. After the Gillespie Flats were abandoned as an irrigation project, Jones brought in an expert from the Washington Nursery Company and they cleared and fenced ten acres at the north end of the flats. Water was piped over the hill past the property now owned by R. B. Stocks and for four or five years high grade nursery stock was grown there with additional stock being raised between the trees on the Camsell property now owned by John Hohn. The depression starting in 1913 and the outbreak of war put an end to the plantings not only in Kaleden but throughout the valley and this marked the end of the nursery business. THE TOWNSITE In the meantime, James Ritchie's plans for Kaleden were not limited to the establishment of an agricultural community. He visualized it as a commercial center serving the mining areas to the south. In line with these dreams, work on the Kaleden townsite paralleled the sale and planting of orchard lands. As the pictures show, the business district consisted chiefly of tents although there were a few buildings. The first of these were a log cabin and barn that had been built by the early pre-emptors. Later a frame structure was erected that served as a store, while the second floor was used as the first school room and for a short time as a church on Sundays. This building which has the distinction of being the oldest in Kaleden still standing as this is written, now serves as Jim Goodwin's garage. Other buildings were the post office, the blacksmith shop and the Tomlin, Harrison and Hatfield homes, but aside from these, 143 The Birth oi Kaleden 1910\u00E2\u0080\u0094Left to Right: Lapsley Store, Post Office and A. S. Hatfield & Co. office, Arnott barn, Land office. Tomlin home on hill. 1910\u00E2\u0080\u0094Left to Right: Blacksmith shop, cook house, tent home of Corbitt and Tait, Jack Stevens' tent, surveyors' tents on hotel site, store, Post Office, barn. Wanless tents on top of hill. 144 The History oi Kaleden tents were the order of the day winter and summer. As one of the pioneers recalls, \"The fall of 1909 was cold and windy and most of us lived in tents pulled over wooden frames. We were kept warm by small camp stoves that would heat the tents up quickly, but as soon as they went out, the outside temperatures would take over. Ritchie used the old log cabin as a kitchen and attached to it was a 12 by 24 foot tent stretched over a wooden frame that was used as a dining room.\" \"The first cook was Yeoman Charles Kitely who came to B.C. with the C.P.R. construction crews following a period in which he ran a tailoring business in Calgary. One of his legs was withered so he had to propel himself around with a heavy cane but in spite of this handicap, he was remarkably active. During the summer and early fall, Ritchie would arrive at almost any time of the day with prospective buyers, so \"Kite\" always kept from three to four dozen pastry plates baked ahead. Then by spreading jam on them he could have pies ready in short order. These pie crusts were always kept stacked in one corner of the kitchen and once a bush rat built a nest back of one lot imparting a highly distinctive flavour to those pies. When the work became too heavy, Kite went back to his preemption on the White Lake road, and a Chinaman was hired. He was poor\u00E2\u0080\u0094the food was not properly cooked and usually served cold. It became so bad that some of the boarders decided to exterminate him. However, he saw them coming and disappeared over the hill. When the crew came back in from work that night a new cook was on the job. Seaman Hatfield had been fortunate in getting Ike Beach who years before in Nova Scotia had cooked on Capt. Hatfield's vessels, generally on the South American run. The food was on the table that night boiling hot\u00E2\u0080\u0094so much so that some of the men burned their mouths. With fire in their eyes they headed for the kitchen but returned at once rather subdued, being driven out by the cook armed with a large cleaver. From then on there was no trouble; the food was good and the men appreciated it. As a result, Ike stayed on until construction was over for that winter.\" The next spring a fine frame building was put up north of Tomlin's barn to serve as a cookhouse and it was used for that purpose until 1912. Both the cookhouse and the old barn still stand and are the property of the Irrigation District, the barn being used for storage of irrigation supplies while the cookhouse was remodelled to serve as Water Bailiff's home when so needed. 145 The Birth oi Kaleden 146 The History oi Kaleden The little frame store, which was one of the earliest buildings constructed, served a relatively large area and saw considerable use for other purposes as well, with school and church services being held in the upper storey for a time. However, if it could reminisce, its fondest memories would probably be of the Great Sale of 1909. That summer Jim Ritchie and A. S. Hatfield bought the complete stock of the Okanagan Falls Store from W. J. Snodgrass. A good portion of this stock had been on hand for some considerable time and included such articles as fur and silk hats in which bush rats had built nests of evaporated apples. There were also old wraps called \"Dolmans\" with slits in the sides for arms, and tassels around the bottom like the trimming of an old- fashioned sofa and shoes with the square-cut toes so popular at the turn of the century. A crew was taken to the Falls and the goods were wheeled from the store down to the lake and loaded on a scow for shipment to Kaleden. During the day a bottle of highly potent Portuguese liquor was discovered among the other more mundane merchandise and Mr. Ritchie, an ardent prohibitionist, broke it on the front gatepost\u00E2\u0080\u0094an act that brought no joy to the hearts of his crew who considered such waste unforgiveable. Arriving back in Kaleden, the goods were put on display on the second floor of the store and a special sale was advertised. Buyers, most of them Indians, came from far and near and the hats, the Dolmans, the square-cut shoes and all the other merchandise was sold in short order\u00E2\u0080\u0094the price\u00E2\u0080\u0094seventy-five cents for any garment or pair of shoes. When first opened, the store at Kaleden had done a flourishing business in extracts. One Indian woman, when asked why she should want- a half pint bottle of lemon extract, replied, \" I make big, big cake.\" It was discovered that there was a heavy fine for supplying Indians with extracts so there was no more \"cake making\" on the Reserve, at least as far as Kaleden was concerned. In the plans drawn up for the townsite the little frame store was only a temporary expedient. Land was set aside for a large store, a hotel and other public buildings. The Bank of Montreal went so far as to purchase land on which to build a bank and another lot for the manager's home. The first major construction in this ambitious program came in the fall of 1911, and the hotel was chosen as the first project. 147 The Birth of Kaleden ,' \u00E2\u0096\u00A0 J; :;|' 1912\u00E2\u0080\u0094Left to Right: Tomlin home, Post Office, old store, new store, just finished; hotel and Lapsley barn at head of wharf. Simpson's cabins and tents in foreground. 1912\u00E2\u0080\u0094Showing corner of Hotel dining room. To the left double doors opened out on lawn. 148 The History oi Kaleden This was a large concrete structure of twenty-six rooms on the main street overlooking the lake. In those days sleeping porches were fashionable and each room had its own sleeping porch as well as bath. There were two dining rooms; one for the working men and a very attractive one for the guests. The hotel also had its own electric light plant run by water power but due to the water shortage during the winter it was not entirely satisfactory. The construction crew was brought down from Summerland with Harry Tomlin as foreman and they built not only the hotel but also the Lapsley store just across the street and the J. C. Findlay home near the top of the hill. D. J. Morgan of Penticton was given the plumbing contract. Others who came in the construction crew were Harry Coles, Tom Whitfield and F. W. King who stayed on after the building was finished and became a fruit grower. The cement for the footings of the hotel was mixed by hand but later a cement mixer was brought in. However, the job of getting the cement up to the forms remained one for strong backs and aching muscles as each yard was wheeled in barrows up ramps which wound round the walls higher and higher as the building progressed. When finished, the Hotel Kaleden was splendidly furnished and under the management of Mr. and Mrs. William McDonald, was a most attractive place to stay. It was operated for about two and one half years with Mrs. Anguin managing it for one summer and Mrs. Janet Locke for one winter. When the war broke out the hotel was closed temporarily, never to reopen. Later the furnishings were sold at a good price and finally, after many rumours that it was to become a sanatorium or an old people's home, it was completely stripped and left as it stands today. The four bare concrete walls are a depressing sight to the old timers who enjoyed its hospitality during the few years it was open. Across the road, the new store fared but little better. D. D. Lapsley had purchased the original store from Ritchie and Hatfield in 1910 and late in 1912 he moved into the new premises with its spacious living quarters above. The war years doomed this venture as well and in 1916 he was forced to close. Later, in 1923, Mr. Bonner and his .family moved to Kaleden and operated the store for some two years but since that time the main floor has served only 149 The Birth of Kaleden as a warehouse. It too stands as a reminder of other more leisurely days when the early settlers would drive in from the little homesteads out in the hills for a month's groceries, and a shopping trip took a full day. Leisure time during the winter months was generally spent near the fire with a good book so it was a real boon when in 1912 through the Farmers' Institute, Kaleden was able to have a lending library. H. H. Whitaker was the librarian and the books were sent in from Victoria in large boxes every four months. The choice was excellent and they were greatly appreciated, helping to pass the long winter evenings. In the 1930's, a lending library was started again with S. A. Robinson as librarian and this served the district for several years. At present Kaleden is included in the Penticton library district, having a branch at the home of Mrs. Smith. POST OFFICE In the winter of 1909-10 we had to go down to Okanagan Falls three times a week for our mail. The lake being frozen over, we could skate down most of the time. There were always plenty of volunteers. Some thought that the post office being in the hotel had some influence on this. Things looked up in the summer of 1910. A. S. Hatfield was appointed Post Master and had his office in a small white painted frame building about twenty-five yards north of the store building now occupied by Mr. and Mrs. James Goodwin. The mail came from Penticton by stage three times weekly but did not come down the hill. Generally, one of O. E. Tomlin's sons rode up on horse back to the junction of the Kaleden road and the Penticton-Fairview road, and would receive a single bag of mail from the driver, generally Warwick Arnott. In 1911 the mail was delivered to the Kaleden post office daily by the Arnott & Hine Stage. And from 1912 to 1914 Campbell and Hatfield under contract with Arnott & Hine, carried mail from Penticton to Okanagan Falls daily by boat, unless the lake was frozen over when it would be taken over by the stage. From 1914 to 1922 A. S. Hatfield had the mail contract from Penticton to Osoyoos, stopping at Kaleden, Okanagan Falls and 150 The History of Kaleden Fairview, his mode of transportation now being a Model T car. While Post Master at Kaleden, his assistants were Miss Eda Wilson, Mrs. George Purvis, Miss Ida McAloney and Mrs. Block. From 1919 to 1921 Frank Taylor and Tom Harrison carried the mail through an arrangement with Hatfield, and from 1921 to 1922 Jack Harrison handled it. In 1919 Hartley Simpson and Warwick Arnott drove the stage for Hatfield between Penticton and Oroville, Washington. The following year they bought him out and until 1924 were very busy during the Oliver development. Simpson sold out to Arnott who carried on with the mail and stage line until he sold to the Greyhound Company in 1931. In 1916 the Hatfield family moved in to Penticton for the winter coming back to Kaleden for a short time and then moving in there permanently in 1917. He was Post Master until 1917. From then on the position was held in succession by Mrs. Tomlin, Mrs. James King and John Ure. Fifty-three homes were served by the post office in 1948 when the present Post Master, Fred King, was appointed. Today this figure stands at 107. TRANSPORTATION The construction of the irrigation system and the building of the hotel store and the various homes that were erected in those early years called for large shipments of cement, pipes and building materials of all kinds, most of it coming from Vancouver. With roads and railroads such we have today, such freight offers no problems, but in the early years of the century, the Okanagan was dependent on water transportation from the railhead at Okanagan Landing. Long before Kaleden was established this form of transportation on Okanagan and Skaha Lakes was playing a vital part in the development of the country. During the early 1890's W. J. Snodgrass of La Grande, Oregon, was persuaded to come to the Okanagan by Tom Ellis. Snodgrass, the grandfather of Mrs. Lyle Badgley, settled at Okanagan Falls where he built a sawmill, a hotel and a store as well as establishing a stage line and venturing into the freight business on Skaha. We learn something of the history of the early boats from \"The Okanagan Mining Review\" which was published for a short time 151 The Birth of Kaleden in Okanagan Falls by Dr. R. Mathison. Mathison, a dentist, later settled in Kelowna and practised his profession as far south as the \"Falls\" at one time setting up shop for a few days in the Kaleden Hotel. The October 19, 1893 issue of the \"Review\" reports that Snodgrass was expecting early delivery of a new boat, the \"Jessie,\" named for his daughter. This boat was burned at the Falls in 1898. Another issue of the Review reports Louis Holman as owner and captain of the steamer \"Miramache\" as well as manager of the Okanagan Hotel on Main Street. This boat was built in Peterborough, Ontario and shipped out complete. In 1894 the C.P.R. built the little wood-burning starn wheeler \"Fairview\" to run from Penticton to Okanagan Falls, then known as \"Dogtown.\" The Fairview was 55 feet long with 15 foot beam and a weight of 43 tons. After operating on Skaha she was moved up to the Okanagan where she burned in 1897. The \"Greenwood\" which was launched in 1897 at Okanagan Landing, was 89 feet long with a 17 foot beam and she burned at the Falls around 1903. For years her paddle wheel could be seen lying partly in the river just north of the present bridge and her shaft was used by Jim Christie to construct a water wheel on his ranch. The owners were Greenwood, Shields, and Brownlee, and the captains during her lifetime were Cumming Brownlee and Eden. George Maynard was the engineer. In 1899 Snodgrass purchased another boat, naming it the \"Maude Moore\" after his youngest daughter. The hull was shipped from Peterborough to Okanagan Landing and Capt. J. B. Weeks, the last master of the steamer \"Sicamous\" recalls helping to build the top structure for the Maude Moore. The engine and boiler from the Jessie were shipped up to the Landing for installation in the new boat. She served on Skaha until 1905 when she was sold to J. M. Robinson, the \"father\" of Summerland and Naramata, to be used as a ferry between these two towns and Penticton. The sternwheeler \"Kaleden\" of wood construction was built by the Canadian Pacific Railway Company in its shipyard at Okanagan Landing in 1910. Its gross tonnage 180, registered tonnage 113, length 94 feet, beam 18 feet, depth of hold 4.6 feet, draught 15 inches. This steamer was of very light construction and was intended for service between Penticton and Okanagan Falls via 152 The History of Kaleden Okanagan River and Skaha Lake. She made one trip with Captain Gore, Superintendent of Canadian Pacific Inland Steamers, and Captain McMorris in charge. The trip was not very successful since the steamer was too wide and too long to negotiate the sharp turns in the river. For this reason it was put into service on Okanagan Lake and served a useful purpose during the construction days of the Kettle Valley Railway when it transported powder and dynamite from Okanagan Landing to Mission and Naramata. Because of its light construction, however, it was not too well suited for freight service on Okanagan Lake. It also lacked adequate deck space and Captain Weeks remembers seeing it come into the wharf at Okanagan Landing with all available deck space taken up with different kinds of cargo and a shipment of dry hides crem- med into the life boats. The \"Kaleden\" was dismantled in 1920 and sold to Captain J. North of Okanagan Landing for $15.00, who wanted only the hull to use as a breakwater. Captain Weeks bought the housework to build a garage\u00E2\u0080\u0094which is still standing. These were the boats which served the old pre-emptors whose holdings included the land where Kaleden now stands. Their main business was hauling supplies from Penticton to Okanagan Falls where the freighters with their four and six-horse teams took over, hauling the supplies in to the mining camps at Greenwood, Fair view and McKinney. In 1909 the first boat which was put into service especially for the benefit of the new development at Kaleden was a motor launch, originally owned by C. N. Higgins of Summerland and named the \"Mallard,\" James Ritchie bought her and re-named her \"Kaleden.\" A. S. Hatfield brought her down the river to carry freight and passengers from the head of the lake to the new development. She was narrow and deep and ballasted with concrete while the river was wide and shallow, so progress was slow and it was only because Charlie Shuttleworth happened along with his saddle horse and helped pull her through the shallow spots that she eventually arrived at Kaleden. A. S. Hatfield's father, Captain Hatfield, ran the boat for two years towing the scows loaded with the pipes, cement, building materials and general merchandise required by the community. Dick Weeks freighted from one lake to the other during this period. As there were no wharves during this period the scows 153 The Birth of Kaleden were run up on the beach to be loaded and unloaded while the small supplies were carried out to the boat. In 1911 James Fraser Campbell and A. S. Hatfield bought the \"Kaleden\" from Ritchie and formed the South Okanagan Transportation Company. The following year they built wharves and small freight sheds at the head of the lake, Kaleden and Okanagan Falls, at the same time buying a new forty foot launch, the \"Cygnet.\" They sold the \"Kaleden\" to a Mr. McCallum at Summerland who bought her for the engine. When he found the engine so securely embedded in concrete that removal was impossible he resold the boat to Matt Wilson of Paradise Ranch, who used it until she sank off the C.N.R. wharf at Summerland. There the little boat which played so large a part in Kaleden's early history, still lies. In 1914 another \"Mallard\" was put into commission. This one was a 32 foot tunnel stern boat designed to operate from Okanagan Lake down the river and thus avoid the need to use wagons out to the north end of Skaha Lake. Although the river had been dredged in spots and piling had been driven on some sharp turns for bank protection, it was difficult to run the river with a craft of its size. Consequently, she would spin like a top in rapid water clearing the piling by inches. On at least one trip the skipper was not quick enough at the wheel driving the boat's nose into the piling and his own through the wheelhouse window. Some of the early residents recall a trip on the Mallard in the summer of 1914. About twenty went to Penticton one evening to see a road show at the old Empress Theatre. They had arranged to board the Mallard at the C.P.R. dock after the show and come home by way of the river, counting on a full moon to provide the illumination. Unfortunately, the moon was pretty well obscured by clouds and the trip promised to be rather a hazardous venture so they waited around until about one o'clock when Seaman Hatfield decided to take a chance. Today few of the passengers could give any details regarding the show they saw that night but none of them are likely to forget the way Hatfield navigated the seven miles of winding, swift flowing river, unable to see more than twenty feet ahead most of the time. Seaman Hatfield tells of making a special trip down the river in the Mallard with Mr. J. J. Warren, president of the Kettle Valley Railway and Mr. David McNichgl, vice-president of the Canadian 154 The History oi Kaleden 1910\u00E2\u0080\u0094C. P. R. Steamer \"Kaleden\" landing at Kaleden on her first and only trip on Skaha Lake. From Left to Right: J. C. Tomlin in barefeet, A. E. Walker, A. S. Hatfield, Jim Ritchie shaking hands with Captain Gore. C. P. R. Steamer \"York\" with car barge at Kaleden wharf. Her last trip on this small but beautiful lake. Otto Estabrook of Penticton was captain. 155 The Birth of Kaleden Pacific Railway and recalls how they enjoyed the buttermilk he procured from Mrs. Sam Hawthorne when they arrived at the Falls. The last of the freight boats on Skaha was the \"York.\" In 1920 the C.P.R. built a spur to the head of the lake with rails laid from Okanagan Falls to Oliver. Because of the heavy rock work involved the portion along Skaha was skipped for the time and the \"York\" was brought down from the Okanagan to serve as a tug pushing the car barges from the slip at the head of the lake to the one at Okanagan Falls, or pulling into Kaleden where she had to wait while the car or cars were loaded with fruit. In 1930 the missing section of rail was completed and the day of freighting on Skaha was finished. Only a few piles remain of the wharf to remind us of the important part this mode of transportation once played in the development of the community. The old tug was beached by the car slip at the head of the lake and everything of value was salvaged and the hull left to decay. Even in the earliest days, the disadvantages of water transportation were evident and it was used to such a large extent mainly because of the two extremely bad hills. One of these was where the road left the lakeshore about three miles south of the Kruger ranch to climb up to the bench lands where the highway is today, and the second hill occurred where it dropped back to the lakeshore at Waterman's Hill just north of Okanagan Falls. In 1910 the government built a new highway starting at what is now the Dewar property, Banbury, coming through Kaleden and joining the old highway near the Falls. This served the double purpose of doing away with most of Waterman's Hill and providing roads for the new development at Kaleden. The work was divided into three sections with Tom McAlpine in charge of the piece north of Kaleden, W. P. Simpson responsible for the section from the townsite to the cemetery, and Big Neil McLean looking after the portion south of the cemetery. This was by far the heaviest part of the construction and is still called the Lower Kaleden Road. A European immigrant,Nickala Krajacie, worked on this section and left a sturdy monument to his memory in the beautifully built dry rock walls which are in excellent condition after forty-eight years. During his Western tour, Canada's leading poet, Bliss Carmen, was driven over this road and was so impressed that he wrote the poem \"Kaleden Road\" which appears in these records. 156 The History of Kaleden Later of course, the highway returned to roughly its original route, with Waterman's Hill being improved and the Kruger Hill road being built in 1930 when the railway took over the old road grade which had followed the lakeshore. COYOTE ROCK To reach this oddity of nature you follow the Green Mountain Road as far as Allen Grove where you turn south on a narrow road following the Kaleden water system for some two miles. Then turn uphill on a narrow trail. Coyote Rock stands at the mouth of a small draw at the end of this trail. The rock is a twenty to twenty-five foot pillar with a large rock balanced on the top. The column, some eight feet in diameter, is a conglomeration of rocks, clay and gravel. The rock, that is balanced on top, must weight at least fifteen tons. The name is not of recent origin. It is connected with Indian legends handed down over the centuries. Over the years the old timers of Kaleden have probably viewed the rock more than most people. Our ditch riders pass it several times a day during the summer months and in the early days our work parties would try to have their lunches at or within sight of the Coyote Rock. 157 ^Disaster SJIt reatend The early years in Kaleden had been ones of hard work and at times of hardship, but by 1912 it must have seemed that Jim Ritchie's dream had materialized. Orchards were thriving where only sage brush and bunch grass had grown, and the irrigation system guaranteed them an adequate supply of water. A veritable highway had replaced the pack trail and along it houses, stores and a modern hotel had been erected in three short years. And yet just when Ritchie and the Kaleden Development Co. seemed about to see their dreams and plans fulfilled, disaster struck. There was no one particular reason for the difficulties which threatened to wipe out the infant community, it was rather a combination of events and circumstances. That the threat of disaster was a very real one can best be understood by visiting the community of Walhachin near Cache Creek. Its history had paralleled Kaleden's to a remarkable degree; developed by English capital, orchards were planted and and irrigation system built, homes, public buildings and a swimming pool constructed. Then came the war years and Walhachin died. Today the casual tourist passes by without seeing any evidence of the early development, but those who know its history can spot a few hardy apple trees clinging to a precarious existence, and may find evidence of rotted-out flumes and sand-filled ditches that once carried the irrigation water. This was almost the history of Kaleden, and to understand the difficulties let us go back to the beginning for a moment. Ritchie's holdings here had comprised about 3,000 acres and to develop this required capital. He had gone to London, England, to raise the needed money and there the Kaleden Development Co. had been formed with several English investors interested. The most important of these was Lord de Vesci, who had invested some $150,000 up to 1912. But by this time the Company had over-extended itself financially. As we are all too well aware today, our irrigation system is an expensive one and a great deal more than the anticipated amount of money had been poured into its construction. As well as the actual system constructed there was an abortive attempt to extend the irrigation to the Gillespie Flats. An expensive ditch digging machine was purchased for this purpose, and it proved to be utterly useless for this type of a job. As a result, thousands of dollars were spent before this project was abandoned. 158 The History of Kaleden These financial reverses forced the Company to take out a $75,000 loan at an interest rate of 10 per cent, which while it provided temporary relief, actually intensified the financial problems. When 1913 ushered in a world wide depression another loan, this time for 65,000 pounds was required. The beginning of a world war in 1914 was the final blow. Its effects were felt as residents and workers joined the armed forces leaving a critical manpower shortage. Ritchie tried to counteract this by bringing in Oriental labour, hiring first some twenty-five Japanese, who lived in tents where the Kaleden Orchards' buildings are today. They stayed only one year and then were replaced by Chinese who remained in the district till after the war. In spite of the fact that the Japanese were here for much shorter time, the road has since been known as Jap Camp Lane. The war soon made itself felt in another way. With Britain fighting for her very existence, all her dollar reserves were needed for munitions and food\u00E2\u0080\u0094certainly none could be spared to care for orchards which had not yet come into production, and so any further financial help from the English investors was effectively cut off. This was the final blow and the heart-breaking decision had to be made to abandon the orchards owned by the Development Co. The orchards owned by private individuals were brought through the war years without any losses but the entire 250 acres planted and still owned by the company died out. In 1919 the creditors foreclosed and the Kaleden Development Company which had played so large a part in our history, passed from the picture. About one hundred acres had been purchased outright by individuals and these had secured title to their land, and a further hundred acres were in the process of being bought. These people were given an opportunity to complete their purchases and to obtain title, so that by 1921 some two hundred acres were under private ownership. The remainder of the 3,000 acres, together with a proportionate share of the irrigation system, was taken over eventually by a group of English business men under the name of Kaleden Estates. This group was headed by Sir William Hutcheson Poe and included Lord de Vesci, one of the original investors. They put up a further $31,500 to help rebuild and extend the irrigation system and later, in May, 1928, they sent Mr. E. N. M. Vernon to manage their holdings here. Starting the following year he began re-planting the abandoned orchards and much of the land north of the post office was planted under his direction. He remained as manager and as 159 Disaster Threatens an active community worker until the time of his death in November, 1943, at which time Emery Lockhart became manager. It might be interesting to record how the 3,000 acres which made up Ritchie's holdings have been disposed of. Several hundred acres were taken up by roads, cemetery, or turned over to the provincial government. Of the remainder 203 acres of orchard land were sold prior to 1921 as has been mentioned. A further 262 acres were deeded by Kaleden Estates to the Kaleden Irrigation District as a settlement for taxes in 1930 and most of this land has been sold by the district and is now in production. At the same time another 55 acres were abandoned as being unsuitable for fruit production, but today even some of this land has a home and fruit trees clinging to its slopes. Between the years 1921 and 1954 the Kaleden Estates sold 245 acres of orchard land in five and ten acre blocks and also sold 1,759 acres of ranch land including the Junction and Gillespie Ranches. This left them with 161 acres of orchard land together with some townsite lots, and in 1956 the orchards were sold to a Mr. Harder of Victoria. Shortly after he re-sold to Kaleden Orchards, with John Pearson as manager. Thus the Kaleden Estates along with the Kaleden Development Company has played its part in our history and faded into the background. 160 ^rrult J roductl ucuon By 1913 the trees planted in 1910 were beginning to give some authenticity to the name \"Kaleden,\" and in that year the first commercial crop was picked. Sixty-seven boxes of Montgamet apricots constituted the entire crop and these were packed in Lap- sley's shed at the head of the Kaleden wharf. Because of the large size, the cots were packed in peach boxes and shipped on consignment to the Scott Fruit Company in Winnipeg. It was a proud moment and possibly a prophetic one for the fruit returns did not cover the shipping and packing costs. The first apples were shipped by H. Corbitt in 1914. He hauled the box shook out from Penticton in a lumber wagon and made up the boxes in the Sandy Cameron building. A Penticton Fruit Union man, Happy Potter, was brought in to pack the 129 boxes of Jonathan apples which were shipped to Penticton on the Mallard. The apricots were the first fruit to become commercially important and in 1915 and 1916, Western Canners took most of the Kaleden crop. George Robertson and Jud. Findlay hauled the fruit to Penticton in wagons fitted with bolster springs. By 1918 Kaleden had become the largest producer of apricots in the valley. There was keen competition between the packing houses for the fruit tonnage. In the early years the Penticton Fruit Union handled most of the crop that was not sold to the cannery, hauling it loose to Penticton for packing in 1915 and sending a Miss Warren down to Kaleden to supervise the packing the following year. By 1917 the name had been changed to the Penticton Co-operative Growers and they sent Nelson Menzies to take charge of the packing in Kaleden. At first Lapsley's shed was used but later as the weather grew colder, the basement of the hotel was pressed into service. In the meantime, Muir Steuart had entered the field. In 1916 he obtained a small portion of the local tonnage which was hauled to Summerland for packing and in 1917 he built the first packing house where the Community Hall stands at present. Fred Graham was the manager, remaining until Steuart sold out. In 1918 the Penticton Co-Op, in an effort to meet this competition, moved their packing operations up the hill. Menzies set up his 161 Fruit Production The Penticton Fruit Union's first packing crew in the basement of the Kaleden Hotel, 1917. Left to Right: Mrs. Russell (nee Ella Turner), Mrs. Swales (nee Vera King), Mrs. Tait (nee Kathleen Harrison), Mrs. Boone (nee Elsie King), Mrs. Cook (nee Olive Roadhouse), Judson Findlay, Alec Trough, Nelson Menzies, manager. Chuck Menzies, Les Roadhouse, Clem Battye. packing house in two large tents on the Battye property, just about where the pickers' cabin stands on Frank Ireland's orchard. The apple crop that year was about 4,200 packed boxes as compared with Kaleden's record crop of 158,185 packed boxes in 1950. By the following year Steuart had cornered most of the tonnage and they handled the bulk of the crop until they sold the Kaleden packing house and equipment to the Penticton Co-Op in 1922. Just a year later the Kaleden growers broke away from the Penticton Co-op and formed the Kaleden Co-Operative Growers. The first board of directors was made up\u00E2\u0080\u0094F. W. King, president; R. D. Mutch, vicepresident; H. W. Corbitt, Reg. Hody and H. H. Whitaker. George E. Brown, now with B.C. Tree Fruits, was the first manager with Harry Brown the foreman. The packed fruit was trucked to the new wharf and loaded directly into refrigerator cars on the barge which the \"York\" pro- 162 The History of Kaleden Steuart Packing House where Community Hall now stands. Left to Right- Fred Graham, manager, Will King, Clem Battye, Jack Coltman, Mrs J G Swales (nee King), Mrs. Coltman, Mrs. Harvey Boone (need King), Mrs. Foreman (need Roadhouse). The present packing and cold storage plant. 163 Fruit Production > \u00C2\u00A3 \u00C2\u00A9\u00E2\u0080\u00A2 +3 0) C .. S-, g C o-H V k^j co oi .\u00C2\u00A9 w \u00C2\u00AB & gg s s i- III | CLi a> jh C I tyo \u00C2\u00AB' \u00E2\u0080\u00A2&"@en . "Periodicals"@en . "Okanagan River Valley (B.C. and Wash.)"@en . "ohs_1980_alt1"@en . "10.14288/1.0132231"@en . "English"@en . "Vancouver : University of British Columbia Library"@en . "Images provided for research and reference use only. Permission to publish, copy, or otherwise use these images must be obtained from the University of British Columbia Library: http://www.library.ubc.ca"@en . "Original Format: University of British Columbia. Library. Okanagan Historical Society Annual Reports"@en . "Forty-fourth annual report of the Okanagan Historical Society"@en . "Text"@en . ""@en .