"CONTENTdm"@en . "California and Alaska"@en . "http://resolve.library.ubc.ca/cgi-bin/catsearch?bid=1611349"@en . "Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection"@en . "Webb, William Seward, 1851-1926"@en . "2015-06"@en . "1890"@en . "https://open.library.ubc.ca/collections/chungpub/items/1.0056394/source.json"@en . "xix, 190 pages, 89 unnumbered leaves of plates : illustrations ; 29 cm"@en . "application/pdf"@en . " 1 HiV\nflE?\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2w\nkUk\nI.-*?\n\u00C2\u00AB\nkWH\nW\nJ4V.\nf.ft-\n-**\nmswa:\nd4&js. 7r. tTfoeeneWyemd \^.JZ/. tStecd\n^ll^^^yt>d\nApril, 1890\nWhh\nl ^ \u00E2\u0096\u00A0mfl\niSs\u00C2\u00AE\ni jetT\n!^ 1LIK\n5*p r- m\nm CALIFORNIA AND ALASKA\nAND OVER\nTHE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY\nCompliments of 2>r. OTm. Sewarb OTebb.\nNEW YORK AND LONDON\nG. P. PUTNAM'S SONS\nGbe \"Knickerbocker press\n1890\n'\u00E2\u0080\u00A2Wftfc -*HL^- fniWr .~**-ms^,.. ..f.--.- fe&\nM\n\u00C2\u00A5j\nw\u00C2\u00BBj\nK&2\nL^ss!*!\nE-^i WBBBSBfSSf^\nCALIFORNIA AND ALASKA\nAND OVER\nTHE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY\nBY\nWILLIAM SEWARD WEBB\nNEW YORK AND LONDON\nG. P. PUTNAM'S SONS\nGbe -Knickerbocker press\n1890 At*'\n&Zi\n&\nCOPYRIGHT BY\nWILLIAM SEWARD WEBB\n1890\n/5> &2 J\nUbe Knickerbocker press, \"fflew JL'orl?\nElectrotyped, Printed, and Bound by\nG. P. Putnam's Sons TO\nTHE VALUED FRIEND AND KIND ADVISER\nJAMES W. McLANE, M.D.\nTHIS BOOK IS DEDICATED BY\nTHE AUTHOR \u00E2\u0096\u00A0'\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\".^LLL:\nttMawn\n< INTRODUCTION.\nIN accordance with a time-honored custom, I must, at\nthe outset, explain in a few words why this work is\ngiven to the public.\nIn the winter of 1888-9, I determined upon taking a\ntrip with my family across the continent to the Pacific\ncoast, and from thence to the city of Mexico. A few\nfriends were invited to accompany us on our journey.\nThe intention was to be absent about three months and\na half, and the 1st of March, 1889, was agreed upon as the\nstarting-day. But the severe illness of my daughter,\nwhich began but a few days prior to our time for leaving,\ndisarranged all our plans, and the day of departure was\npostponed until the first week in April.\nThe more I thought of this proposed journey, the\nmore interesting and important it seemed to me in the\nprospective. For, to me at least, it was something more\nthan a trip of pleasure, as, indeed, it could not but be to\nany business man. The journey would cover the most\ninteresting portion of our country\u00E2\u0080\u0094a stretch of territory\nthat is not only the pride of every native of the United\nStates, but the subject of never-ceasing wonder on the Mas\nmm\nWW\nMi\n\u00C2\u00AB*\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\u00E2\u0080\u00A2!\nw/-. CONTENTS.\nCHAPTER I.\nHow We Travelled\nPAGE\nI\nCHAPTER II.\nFrom New York to Omaha\nCHAPTER III.\nDenver and Colorado Springs .\n12\nCHAPTER IV\nThe Parks of Colorado\n18\nCHAPTER V.\nSanta Fe\nCHAPTER VI.\nSanta Monica\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2 \u00E2\u0080\u00A2\nIX\n23\n30 m\nmmtmm\ntit. ,\u00C2\u00A3m ;\nX\nContents.\nLos Angeles .\nCHAPTER VII.\n35\nMonterey\nCHAPTER VIII.\n4i\nThe Missions\nCHAPTER IX.\n5i\nCHAPTER X.\nThe Yosemite Valley .\n60\nCHAPTER XI.\nSan Francisco\n74\nCHAPTER XII.\nSan Francisco : The Chinese Quarter\n85\nCHAPTER XIII.\nNorthern California and Mount Shasta\n93\nCHAPTER XIV.\nMontana\n101 CHAPTER XV.\nPAGE\nThe Garden of Montana\" . . . .112\nCHAPTER XVI.\nFrom St. Paul to Manitoba . . . .118\nCHAPTER XVII.\nMountains and Gorges on the Canadian\nPacific Railway . . . . . 131\nCHAPTER XVIII.\nFrom Kamloops to Vancouver . . . .141\nCHAPTER XIX.\nIn Alaskan Waters . . . . . -149\nCHAPTER XX.\nIn Alaskan Waters, (Concluded) . . .160\nCHAPTER XXI.\nVictoria\u00E2\u0080\u0094Winnipeg\u00E2\u0080\u0094Hunting Experiences . 171\nCHAPTER XXII.\nFrom Winnipeg, Homeward Bound . . .182 Ill ETCHINGS.\nINDIA PROOF IMPRESSIONS.\nLake Louise, near Laggan. By R. C. Minor, Frontispiece\nMission of San Luis Rey, Cal. By C. Y. Turner, 52\nNorth Arm, Biscotasing Lake. By J. C. Nicoll, 112\nMuir Glacier, Alaska. By R. Swain Gifford, 166 FULL-PAGE PHOTOGRAVURES.\nPAGE\n2\n4\n24\nInterior of Car | Ellsmere \"\nInterior of Dining-Car, Special Train\nOld Front of San Miguel Church, Santa Fe\nSouth Pasadena, Sierra Madre Mountains, and\nRaymond Hotel ......\nThe Palms of Glenannie .....\nOlive Grove .......\nStreet View in Los Angeles .... 38\nHotel del Monte, Monterey (two views) 42 and 43\n32\n34\nI\nArizona Garden at Del Monte\nThe Lake at Monterey ....\nThe Picnic Party at Monterey\nOld Live Oak at Monterey\nThe Drive through the Pines, Monterey\nRocks, near Monterey ....\nSeal Rock Covered with Seals, near Monterey\nOn the Coast, near Monterey .\nMission of Santa Barbara\u00E2\u0080\u0094Building\n44\n45\n46\n47\n48\n49\n50\n5i\n54 Full-page Photogravures.\nMission of Santa Barbara\u00E2\u0080\u0094The Garden .\nOld Mission Church, near Monterey\nMission of San Carlos, near Monterey .\nA Farm Team near the Mission, Monterey\nMariposa Grove\u00E2\u0080\u0094Big Trees\nEl Capitan, Yosemite Valley\nDead Giant, Tuolumne Grove \u00E2\u0080\u0094 Diameter,\n30 ft. 8 in. .\nYosemite Valley, from Artist's Point\nNevada Falls . .\nYosemite Falls . .\nGlacier Point (3,200 feet), Yosemite Valley\nSouth Dome, from Glacier Point\nMount Shasta, from Sisson\nMount Hood from Lost Lake .\nPrickly Pear Canyon, Manitoba Railroad\n(two views) . . . . . 106 and\nGreat Falls of the Missouri River, Montana,\nCow-Boys, Manitoba Railroad .\nView of Narrows, Biscotasing Lake\nRear of the Special Train at Field\nView of Special Train ....\nMount Stephen, Canadian Pacific Railway\nView of Special Train at Field, Showing\nMt. Field in the Distance\nLower Kicking-Horse Canyon, near Golden\n55\n56\n57\n58\n60\n62\n64\n66\n68\n70\n72\n11\n75\n94\n102\n108\n116\n118\n124\n126\n127\n128\n129\n130 F^lll-page Photogravures.\nXVII\nCanadian Pacific Railway Station and Mount\nDonald Glacier ......\nMount Donald, from Tote Road\nStony Creek Bridge\u00E2\u0080\u0094Height, 296 feet,\u00E2\u0080\u0094Canadian Pacific Railway . . . . .\nGreat Glacier, Canadian Pacific Railway\nGlacier Hotel and Mountain .\nSailor Bar Bluff, below Spuzzum, Canadian\nPacific Railway ......\nTop View, Sailor Bar Bluff . . . .\nInterior of Snow-Shed, Canadian Pacific Railway ........\nHermit Range, from Hotel, Showing Canadian\nPacific Railway Station\nSupply or Tote Road, near Spanish River\nMountain Creek Bridge, Containing 1,500,000\nfeet Timber, Canadian Pacific Railway\nForest Trees, English Bay, Vancouver\nDouglas Firs, on Vancouver Town Site .\nRoadway in Stanley Park, Vancouver\nVancouver, from Canadian Pacific Railway\nDocks .......\nSteamer \"Islander\" .....\nInterior of Steamboat, on Trip to Alaska\nTypical View along the Coast of Alaska\nBella Bella, Alaska .....\n131\n132\n133\ni34\n135\n136\ni37\n138\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2 139\n140\n. 141\n142\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2 144\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2 145\nJ\n146\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2 147\n. 148\n. 149\n. 150 \u00E2\u0096\u00A04\u00C2\u00ABfattMi\nXV111\nFull-page Photogravures.\n/ wm\nFloating Ice, near Muir Glacier\nLincoln Street, East, Sitka, Alaska\nIndian Chief's Grave, Alaska\nRussian Block-House, Sitka, Alaska\nScene in Indian Town, Sitka, Alaska\nIndian River Canyon, from \"Pinta\" Anchorage,\nFavorite Bay, i Home of the Herring,\" Killisnoo,\nJuneau (Alaska) and Harbor .\nIndian Village, Alert Bay, Alaska .\nWrangel, Alaska . . .\nFraser Canyon, Showing Four Tunnels above\nSpuzzum, Canadian Pacific Railway .\nHotel Banff, Canadian National Park, Canadian Pacific Railway .....\nView from Banff Hotel, Looking down Bow\nValley, Canadian Pacific Railway .\nRed Sucker Cove, North Shore Lake Superior,\nCanadian Pacific Railway ....\nRed Sucker Tunnel, Canadian Pacific Railway . . \u00E2\u0080\u00A2.\nMain Street, Winnipeg\t\nA Canadian Backwoods Team, near Sudbury,\nCanadian Pacific Railway ....\nAlaskan Game, Killisnoo\t\nSkirting Nepigon Bay, Canadian Pacific Railway .\n. 152\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2 154\n. 156\n. 158\n160\nE, 162\n1 164\n. 168\n.' 169\nI70\n172\n174\n175\n176\n177\n178\n179\n180\n181 Full-page Photogravures. xix\nPAGE\nNepigon River, and Hudson Bay Company's\nPost, Looking down the River from near\nCanadian Pacific Railway Bridge . .182\nThunder Cape, Lake Superior . . . .183\nNepigon Bay, from Nepigon Station . .184\nJackfish Bay, Canadian Pacific Railway . 185\nNepigon River and Bridge, Canadian Pacific\nRailway ... . . . . . .186\nTypical Railway View, North Shore Lake\nSuperior, Canadian Pacific Railway . . 187\nA Tow on Lake Superior\u00E2\u0080\u0094Coal Vessels Returning from Thunder Bay . . .188\nCanadian Pacific Railway Station, Montreal . 189\n_/ 2*c\n3\nm$4\nurns\nmM i\n^^\nC**^**\n\u00C2\u00AB\nrami FROM NEW YORK TO CALIFORNIA\nAND ALASKA.\nCHAPTER I.\nHOW WE TRAVELLED.\nTHE special train of four cars in which we made\nour journey was probably the most thoroughly\nequipped and most luxurious one that has ever\nbeen used by a party of travellers. On that account the\nreader will be interested in a description of it.\nThe first car was what is called a | combination car.\"\nThe forward part of it was used for the storage of baggage;\nnext to this apartment was a sleeping-room for the cooks\nand porters. After this a bath-room, and next adjoining a\nlarge smoking- or drawing-room, at one end of which was\na Chickering piano, and at the other a desk, a complete\nlibrary, and proper compartments for guns, fishing-rods,\nand sporting paraphernalia. This smoking-room was intended as a sitting-room for the gentlemen of the party\nduring the evening or daytime. This car, called I Buffet\nNo. 60,\" was kindly loaned to me by Mr. John Newell, Hfi\nSB\nwas\nCalifornia and Alaska.\n\u00C2\u00B1A,\nr*\n'\u00C2\u00BB\nS3\nPresident of the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern\nRailway Company.\nThe dining-car came next. All the tables had been\ntaken from it, and in their places an ordinary dining-table,\nside-tables, etc., had been put in, the same as in a house.\nNext came a car I had formerly used as a special car, the\n\" Mariquita,\" which had been remodelled into a nursery-\ncar, and which was occupied by Mrs. Webb, the three\nchildren, two nurses, and a maid. Last of all was my new\nprivate car \" Ellsmere.\" This was occupied by Mr. and\nMrs. Purdy, Dr. McLane, Mr. Louis Webb, Mr. George\nBird, Mr. Julian Kean, Mr. Frank Webb, and myself.\nIn the Buffet car and the | Ellsmere,\" respectively\nthe first and last cars of the train, were large gongs,\nwhich could be rung from any of the cars ; these were\nused in the daytime to call servants from one part of-the\ntrain to the other, and were to be used at night in case of\nan attack by highwaymen. There have been cases heretofore where trains, like stage-coaches of old, have been\n1 held up \" and their occupants compelled to deliver up\ntheir valuables at the urgent request of some desperate\nborder ruffian. Such instances are, of course, not\nvery common in the present advanced state of Western\ncivilization, but we thought it advisable to follow\nthe Irishman's suggestion\u00E2\u0080\u0094\" it is better to be sure\nthan sorry,\"\u00E2\u0080\u0094and we were consequently well prepared\nto give any such intruders a warm reception. Our\ncrew of men on the train during the daytime was in\ncharge of Col. Oscar Eastmond, who had served in the\nUnited States army during the war, and since then had Interior of Car \"Ellsmere!' DM\nm\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\u00C2\u00A7}\nK?*i\nI&JL&\nm How We Travelled.\nbeen holding the position of conductor. On our road to\nthe Pacific coast we had one of Pinkerton's best detectives,\nwho took charge of the train at night. After leaving the\nPacific coast, Col. Eastmond took charge of the train at\nnight, and slept in the daytime.\nThe cooking on board our train was in the hands of\ntwo of the oldest and best-tried cooks on the road, and\neight of the best porters were selected for the party. The\ntrain was also so arranged as to be heated by steam from\nthe engines.\nThrough the kindness of Mr. Van Home, of Montreal,\na new steel steamship, belonging to the Canadian Pacific\nSteamship Company, and which, about this time, had just\narrived on the Pacific coast, was chartered for a two\nweeks' cruise in Alaskan waters. She was entered as the\nwriter's yacht in the Yacht Club, and carried his yachting\ncolors during the cruise.\nOur start from under the 45th Street bridge at the\nGrand Central Depot, in the great metropolis, was\nmarked by more than the ordinary excitement which\nusually attends events of that kind. A large number of\nfriends had gathered there to see the party start out,\nand to wave their parting salutes as they called out | a\npleasant journey and a safe return \"\u00E2\u0080\u0094a journey which was\nto take us four times across the continent, up into the\nland of seals, and through the British dominions.\nMMUhUMgi mm\nMBB\nCHAPTER II.\nFROM NEW YORK TO OMAHA.\nWE arrived at Niagara Falls on Sunday morning,\nthe 7th of April. We spent some time in\nadmiring the scenery, which was of course\nnot new to us, and with which the reader is probably\nfamiliar. The Falls of Niagara are beautiful at all times,\nbut there was something in the rich, golden sunrise of that\nlovely April morning which, lent an additional beauty to\nthe view. The sight of such a sunrise recalled our early\nreading of \" Childe Harold \" :\nThe morn is up again, the dewy morn,\nWith breath all incense, and with cheeks all bloom,\nLaughing the clouds away with playful scorn,\nAnd living as if earth contained no tomb,\u00E2\u0080\u0094\nAnd glowing into day.\nWe started for Detroit at a few moments past five in\nthe morning, our first stop being at St. Thomas, one hundred and fifteen miles from the Falls, where we changed\nengines. The distance from St. Thomas to Windsor, one\nhundred and eleven miles, we ran in one hundred and\nseven minutes.\n4 Interior of Dining-Car, Special Train. I#l\u00C2\u00BBl\nm\nmm\nmmmm\nfew\nK\ntf!\nI\nrc&s\nl$Ej\u00C2\u00A7?l\nBMMl\ne From New York to Omaha. 5\nAt Windsor, where the transport was in waiting and\nwhere we were transferred to the Detroit side, our first\nmishap occurred. In taking the train off the transport,\nthe coupling between the \" Mariquita \" and the dining-car\nwas broken. This caused a delay of three quarters of an\nhour. From Detroit to Chicago our running; time was\nfaster, if any thing, than on the Canada Southern division,\nthe indicator at one time registering a speed of sixty-nine\nmiles an hour. Between Niles and Michigan City, a distance of thirty-six and a half miles, we covered in the\nremarkable time of thirty-two minutes, including one stop\nfor grade crossing, which occupied at least two minutes.\nWe arrived at Kensington, near Chicago, at 5.06, having\nmade the run from Suspension Bridge to Kensington,\nfour hundred and ninety-seven and a half miles, in eleven\nhours and eleven minutes, not including the delay of\nthree quarters of an hour at Detroit. All switches were\nspiked, and all freight and passenger trains side-tracked to\nenable us to make this fast run. Notwithstanding the\nremarkable speed at which we travelled, none of the party\nrealized the rapid rate at which we ran all day.\nIn thinking over these wonderful performances of\nlocomotive speed we are reminded of the phenomenal\ngrowth and development of the railway in the last century.\nIt seems almost incredible that the first locomotive, invented in London only eighty-five years ago, could not\nmake steam, and could neither travel fast nor draw a\nheavy load. The first locomotive in this country was run\nin 1829, and operated by the Delaware and Hudson Canal\nCompany, connecting the coal mines with the canal. That m\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nsame year, Peter Cooper experimented with a little locomotive, and once related, with great glee, how, on the trial\ntrip, he had beaten a gray horse attached to another car.\nOn our arrival at Chicago our division superintendent,\nMr. Spoor, and a number of railroad men were waiting to\nmeet us. The party, with the exception of the children,\nwent to the Richelieu Hotel, where we dined. In the\nmeantime the train was sent on the belt line to the\nChicago and Northwestern Depot.\nWe left Chicago a little after eight o'clock Monday\nmorning, April 8th, and arrived in Council Bluffs, four\nhundred and ninety-three miles from Chicago, in about\ntwelve hours, the quickest time that has ever been made\nbetween these two points. As on the Michigan Central,\nthe road was cleared, and the switches were spiked the entire\ndistance. We had only one engine with the same engineer\nall the distance from Chicago to Council Bluffs. This circumstance is remarkable, for the distance has never been\ncovered before in one run by one engine. The officials of\nthe road, however, had spare engines at different points, fired\nup with crews in waiting to take the place of ours should any\nthing give out. A master mechanic was also sent all the\nway through with the train, in order to be in readiness\nshould any accident occur to the engine. Our engineer,\nnot being accustomed to the last three divisions of the\nroad, had a pilot over each division, and was thus enabled\nto keep up his high speed.\nOn our arrival at Council Bluffs, through some misunderstanding, the Union Pacific Railroad had an engine\nand crew ready to take us through | special 1 to Ogden, From New York to Omaha.\nthey having conceived the idea that it was our intention\nto go directly through to the Pacific coast via the Union\nand Central Pacific lines, and had arranged to give us a\nvery fast run to the coast. There is no doubt that had\nwe gone by their line we should have made the quickest\ntime from ocean to ocean that has ever been made, or\nis likely to be made for years to come. Mr. Orr, their\nrepresentative, met us at the Union Depot, and taking\nspecial engine and car we went with him to see the city of\nOmaha, returning late in the evening.\nCouncil Bluffs is one of the oldest towns in Western\nIowa. As early as 1846 it was known as a Mormon settlement and called Kanesville, a name which it retained until\n1853, when the Legislature granted a charter designating\nthe place as the City of Council Bluffs. The city includes\nwithin her corporate limits about twenty-four square miles,\nand the surrounding country is rich in farming land.\nFrom the appearance of the country we passed through\nat this time we were reminded that spring-time was at\nhand. In various sections we saw the farmers ploughing,\nand the grass starting- out of the ground. The soil was\nof a dark color, evidently of sufficient richness to be independent of a fertilizer. One does not wonder that farmers\nin this section of the country can raise from forty to forty-\nfive bushels of corn to the acre.\nWhen we entered the State of Iowa, which we did\nafter passing Fulton, the large amount of stock, especially\ncattle, seen on every farm, was particularly noticeable.\nAt every town between Chicago and Omaha there\nwere groups of people at the various stations, ranging in\nJ California and Alaska.\nnumbers from fifty to five hundred, waiting to see our\ntrain go through. For it was known all along the line of\nthe road that our excursion party was coming, from the\nfact that the switches at all stations had been spiked, all\ntrains side-tracked, and employes of the road near the\nseveral stations had been placed with white flags at the\ndifferent crossings just previous to the passage of the\ntrain. These peculiar preparations, of course, brought an\ninquiring crowd about, who waited to see our train pass\nthrough.\nThe city of Omaha, to which point our special train\nwas taken on the morning of the 9th, furnishes a striking\nexample of Western growth and enterprise. Each time\nthat the visitor stops here he finds some new evidence of\nimprovement. Portions of the town that, but a few months\nbefore, were barren plains, are laid out in streets and lined\nwith substantial houses of fine appearance. The railroad\nterminals and properties near the depot serve to indicate\nthat this city is one of the most important railroad centres\nof the West.\nOmaha was settled in 1854, when a few squatters fixed\nupon this section for their residence, the country at that\ntime being a part of the Territory of Nebraska. The\nsituation of the town commands for it an extensive trade\nwith the West. The shops of the Union Pacific Railroad,\nthe smelting works for refining silver ore from the mountains, and manufactories of various kinds give employment\nto many mechanics and laborers. The bridge across the\nMissouri, built by the Union Pacific Company, and costing\nover a million dollars, is one of the finest structures of the From New York to Omaha. 9\nkind in the country. It stands sixty feet above high-water\nmark, and has, besides a railroad track, a street-car track\nand wagon way.\nThe ride from Omaha to Kansas City was through a\npart of the country which was new to most of us, and full\nof interest. We followed the river route the whole distance to Kansas City, passing the city of Leavenworth,\none of the largest and most flourishing- towns in the State,\nsurrounded by one of the richest agricultural regions in\nthe valley of the Missouri. In 1853, only thirty-six years\nago, the site of this city was covered with hazel-brush, and\nwolves roamed about the country unmolested. Now it\nhas schools, churches, academies, and theatres. It is the\nheadquarters for outfitting government supply trains for\nWestern posts, and has a very large trade with the Territories. The government farm, located here, is one of the\nlargest and most productive in the country. Fort Leavenworth, two miles from the city, is situated on a bluff one\nhundred and fifty feet high, and was established in 1827.\nConnected with the fort is stabling\" for eight thousand\nhorses and fifteen thousand mules.\nOur stop at Omaha was made particularly agreeable\n.and noteworthy from the fact that, soon after our arrival,\nBishop Worthington of the Episcopal Diocese of Nebraska\ncalled upon us, and took the ladies of the party for a drive\naround the city. We did not have such a pleasant experience at Kansas City. Through some misunderstanding\non the part of the railroad officials, our train, instead of\nbeing taken into the depot, was left in the freight yards.\nAs a result of this arrangement, the ladies were deprived\n_J [gBSWP\"lBWg!W\na=\n10\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nft\nM\nm\nof the pleasure of visiting various points of interest in the\ncity. Some of the gentlemen of the party, with considerable difficulty, managed to find their way to the passenger\ndepot, and rode about town in the well-known cable cars.\nThough Kansas City was settled in 1830, it was twenty-\nfive years before it began to improve and increase in\npopulation. After the breaking out of the war its commerce was almost ruined, but with peace came prosperity,\nand since 1865 its advance has been marvellous. Kansas\nCity has the honor of having built the first bridge across\nthe Missouri, which it did at a cost of one million dollars.\nSoon after our arrival at this place the Pinkerton night-\nwatchman reported for duty\u00E2\u0080\u0094his services being' considered\nnecessary from Kansas City to San Francisco.\nWhen passing through Topeka, on the Atchison, To-\npeka, and Santa Fe Railroad, Mr. Robinson, the General\nManager of the road, called upon us and, on behalf of the\nPresident of the company, extended to us the use of his\ncompany's line on our Western trip, courteously adding\nthat arrangements had been made to make our trip as\npleasant as possible.\nThe country through which we passed at this time,\nthough very flat and sparsely populated, seemed admirably\nadapted to farming. The appearance of the farms and\nbuildings showed that the people enjoyed more than the\nusual degree of prosperity peculiar to pastoral life.\nA notable sight served to recall the past history of this\ncountry, and place it in sharp contrast with the present\u00E2\u0080\u0094\nthis was the old cattle trails used by ranchmen in driving\ntheir cattle from Texas and the South into Montana,\n\u00E2\u0082\u00AC From New York to Omaha.\nii\nWyoming, and Dakota, before railroads had been built to\nperform such service quickly and cheaply. Sitting in our\nluxuriously appointed palace-car, and noting this point of\ninterest, together with the overland wagon roads used in\nformer years, we could not but recall the vast progress that\nhas been made of late years in furnishing transportation\nfacilities for a journey across the continent.\nJ s\u00C2\u00BB\nMl\n*cV\nMil\nfifed\nSi i\n3R\n<$,\n\u00C2\u00A3S\nCHAPTER III.\nDENVER AND COLORADO SPRINGS.\nWE reached Pueblo, the chief city of Southern\nColorado, on the evening of April ioth,\nwhere we were delayed for two hours, owing\nto a wash-out. The Spanish-speaking people and the\nFrench hunters and trappers who lived in this section\nbefore the march of improvement began, gave queer-\nsounding names to the mountains, streams, and the small\nsettlements as they began to be formed. Pueblo is a\nsample; but when the early settlers came they soon\nchanged all this, and the brakemen on the Western roads\ncertainly have cause to be thankful that plain Anglo-Saxon\nnames have replaced the queer titles that were common in\nthe early days.\nIt was so cold coming up the grade over the mountains\nthat we had to build fires in all the cars, but when we\nreached Denver we found the weather warm and pleasant.\nOur stop at this point was made more agreeable from the\nfact that we received our mail, which had come over the\nUnion Pacific line from Chicago. We sent a mail-bao-\nEast with letters from all parties to relatives and friends\n12 Denver and Colorado Springs.\nn\nat home. The chronicler of the expedition had talked into\na phonograph a diary of the experiences that had befallen\nthe party since starting from New York. The cylinders\ncontaining this material were included in the outgoing\nmail, and were in such a shape that they could be transcribed by a clerk into \" every-day English.\"\nDenver has a right to lay claim to the title | Queen\nCity of the Plains \" ; it is to-day one of the largest and,\nin many respects, one of the handsomest towns in the\nWest. Twenty years ago its population was only fifteen\nhundred ; to-day it has over eighty thousand inhabitants.\nThirty years ago the inhabitants formed an odd social\nmixture. There were refined and educated men from the\nEastern towns, and there were rough and disreputable\ncharacters, hailing from the purlieus of our great cities\nand the rough settlements of the far West, all animated\nwith one purpose\u00E2\u0080\u0094the search for gold. In 1873 Denver\nsuffered from the financial disaster which had been felt in\nthe East, and in 1875 an^ 1876 it was visited with the\ngrasshopper plague, which resulted in a great loss of\ncrops and the withdrawal of a large amount of capital from\nthe banks. After these clouds of adversity came the sunshine of prosperity, only two years later, in 1877, when\nthe export of beeves was the largest ever known. Two\nyears ago the real-estate sales amounted to $29,345,451,\nan increase of eighteen millions over those for the year\n1886.\nThough Denver is a thorough, go-ahead, practical city,\nwhere money and business enterprise are highly appreciated and made the most of, it is claimed that the town m\nMi\nh\nCalifornia and Alaska.\ncontains more resident college graduates than any other\ntown of the same size in the United States. It makes no\npretensions to be a literary centre ; the class of literature\nfound in its wholesale and retail book-stores, however,\nshows it to be abreast of the culture of the day.\nDenver may be called the commercial centre of Colorado, and, in some respects, resembles the thriving town\nof Springfield, Massachusetts. It is situated on a series\nof plateaus, fifteen miles from the foot of the Rocky\nMountains. The selection of the site was made by accident. The early gold-hunters who went into the State\nfound a few grains of gold in the sandy bed of Cherry\nCreek, a small stream that flows into the South Platte\nRiver near the town. The hunters called the place\nAuraria, a decidedly appropriate cognomen. When it\nbecame known that gold had been found in this vicinity,\nhunters came from all parts of the States as well as New\nMexico, and it became, even for those times, a thriving\nsettlement, where hunters and miners could replenish\ntheir stores and complete their outfits for expeditions into\nthe mountains. As a matter of fact very little gold was\nfound here, but the adventurers kept up the delusion of\nthe fabulous richness of the mountain placers as long as\nthey could. When the bubble finally burst, the town was\nnamed Denver, in honor of Col. J. W. Denver, who was\nthen the Governor of Kansas, in which all this mountain\nregion was then included.\nFifteen railroads to-day centre in Denver. The Union\nDepot would be a credit to any of our well-developed\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 '*\ni Denver and Colorado Springs. 15\nEastern cities. It is constructed almost entirely of stone\nquarried in the State, and is 503 feet long by 69 feet\nwide. The central tower is 165 feet high, and contains\nan illuminated clock. An idea can be formed of the immense amount of railroad traffic carried on in this structure\nwhen it is stated that over two hundred thousand pieces of\nbaggage are handled within its walls in the course of a\nyear.\nDenver is practically supported by the three great\nindustries, mining, agriculture, and stock-raising. Though\nsilver was not found until 1870, the yield of that metal in\n1886 was nearly $17,000,000. Ore is sent to the city not\nonly from Colorado but from New Mexico and Old Mexico, Montana, Arizona, Idaho, Oregon, Nevada, and South\nAmerica. Of six million acres of agricultural land in\nColorado, two thirds have been taken up, and millions\nof dollars are invested in raising cattle and sheep.\nThe city itself has a very inviting appearance. We\ndrove through its handsome streets, and admired the\nbeautiful residences and buildings to be seen on every\nhand, not forgetting that this wonderful development was\nthe growth of the last twenty-five years.\nAfter seeing every thing of interest in the city, and\nobtaining certain necessary supplies, we left for Colorado\nSprings. This is a beautiful city, charmingly situated at\nthe foot of Pike's Peak. When Lieutenant Zebulon Pike\nwas ordered, in 1806, by General Wilkinson, to explore\nthe region between Missouri and the frontier of Mexico,\nhe described the great peak, saying that it \" appeared like jssasaaa\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0saessaw\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0*.\u00C2\u00BB'*\nI\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\"IS*\n16\nCalifornia and Alaska.\na small blue cloud.\" He named it Mexican Mountain,\nbut afterwards, in honor of his bravery, it was given the\nname of Pike's Peak.\nIt may not be generally known that we owe the\nexistence of Colorado Springs to a railroad company\u00E2\u0080\u0094or\nrather, to the National Land and Improvement Company,\nwhich was started by the Denver and Rio Grande Railway\nCompany. This organization purchased a tract of land,\nfive miles distant from the Springs, and spent large sums\nin laying out broad streets and planting along their sides\nrows of cottonwood trees. It expended forty thousand\ndollars for the construction of a canal so that water could\nbe brought to the town. In order to develop the place, it\ngave a valuable building lot for church purposes to each\nof the Christian denominations. Each deed of land provided a heavy penalty in case liquor should be sold, or\notherwise disposed of, on the premises.\nHow far these temperance principles are carried out at\nthe present time, we do not know. We have heard, however, that when a man wants his beer, he gets a certificate\nof membership in a \u00C2\u00A7 beer\" club, thus becoming a shareholder, and the law cannot prevent him from using the\nbeverage.\nColorado Springs is noted, far and near, as a health\nresort, and, during the summer months, its hotels are\ncrowded with health-seekers from Western Kansas and\nSouthern California. In the winter season many New\nYorkers and residents of our large Eastern cities are\nseen on its streets. According to competent medical\nauthority, the climate and waters are good in cases of\nif M\nrft\nIlStV\n7*1\n#! Denver and Colorado Springs.\nnervous exhaustion, bad circulation, defective nutrition,\nand malaria. The climate is also said to be good for\nconsumptives, setting the healthy processes of life going\nwith increased vigor. Persons who are affected with\nheart trouble, however, are not advised to visit this\nsection of the country.\n3 KH\nB\nCHAPTER IV.\nTHE PARKS OF COLORADO.\nON the morning of April 12th, soon after breakfast, our party divided, some starting in carriages, and some on horseback, for Manitou\nand the Garden of the Gods, others taking a different\ndirection.\nManitou, much to the delight of its residents, has\ngained the name of the Saratoga of the West. It is\nabout five miles from Colorado Springs, and has grown\nfrom a small settlement of log cabins to a good-sized\nvillage. It lies at the base of Pike's Peak, and seems\nperfectly hemmed in by surrounding hills, and altogether\nshut off from the outside world. The air is very fine, and\nthe waters are said to be a cure for rheumatism, liver\ntroubles, blood poisoning, and diabetes. It seems that\nthe Indians of Colorado, in early times, were in the habit\nof using these waters when they felt the need of a tonic.\nThe beneficial effects of the climate and the waters are\nillustrated by the saying of the Western man, that he was\nkept there simply as an example of what the country\nwould do for a man, adding\", that he came from Chicago\non a mattress.\n18\nKB The Parks of Colorado.\n9\n\" The Garden of the Gods \" is the fanciful title which\nhas been bestowed upon a valley of small dimensions,\nlying about four miles from Colorado Springs. Its special\nfeatures are a number of shelf-like rocks, upheaved into\nperpendicular position, some of them rising to about three\nhundred and fifty feet in height. The road enters the Garden through a narrow passage-way, between two towering\nbut narrow ledges of cliffs. This entrance is called the\ngateway. The rocks are mostly of a very soft brilliantly\nred sandstone, although one ridge of cliffs is of a white\nsandstone. Some of the foot-hills in the vicinity are\nsurmounted by similar upheavals, forming ridges of serrated rock, while round the main cliff in the valley are\nseparate spire-like columns. These rock formations for\nyears have been a feature of peculiar interest to the\ngeologist.\nThese parks are really nothing more than large fertile\nvalleys, shut in by the spurs or branches of the Rocky\nMountains. North Park, which lies in the extreme northern part of the State, has not been thoroughly explored\nand settled, owing to its remote situation and colder\nclimate. Its forests abound with bear, deer, and other\nwild game, and it is a favorite resort for the adventurous\nsportsman.\nMiddle Park is directly south of North Park, and is\nsurrounded by Long's Peak, Gray's Peak, and Mount\nLincoln, each from thirteen thousand to fifteen thousand\nfeet high. Its territory is made up of forests and large,\nexpansive meadows, among the grasses of which will\nbe found wild flowers of nearly every hue. South Park\nJ California and Alaska.\nlies below. It is surrounded by high mountains, and its\nclimate and scenery are delightful.\nSan Luis Park, in Southern Colorado, is about twice\nthe size of the State of New Hampshire. In its centre\nthere is a beautiful lake, and its mountains are covered\nwith forests of pine, fir, spruce, oak, and cedar, and large\nmeadows which produce a rich growth of grasses. Cattle\nobtain the most wholesome subsistence on the grasses of\nthe plains below, and medicinal springs are found in every\ndirection.\nMonument Park, which is reached by the Rio Grande\nand Denver road, is so called from its resemblance to\na vast cemetery containing monuments of a departed and\nlong-forgotten race. These monuments are composed of\na very close conglomerate, surmounted by a material of\ndarker color and harder texture.\nTwo of our party, on this occasion, with an engine and\none of our cars, took a trip up the Colorado Midland Railroad, over the mountains, as far as Green Mountain Park.\nThis is a beautiful, sequestered little nook, and contains a\nsummer hotel, surrounded by green and well-kept lawns.\nThere is a fountain, too, and the whole appearance of the\nplace is in striking contrast with the cold peaks of granite\nand snow that surround the settlement. On our return we\ntook up the rest of the party at a way station, and all returned to Colorado Springs.\nThe scenery on the Colorado Midland road is extremely fine, and the journey was especially interesting,\nfrom the fact that we saw some wonderful specimens of\nengineering work. The bridges and viaducts on this road The Parks of Colorado.\n21\nare truly remarkable. In places the grade is from two\nhundred and eighty to three hundred and ten feet a mile.\nThe curves are very frequent; the road-bed winding\nfirst through a tunnel, then passing over a precipice\nacross gorges, all the time pursuing a serpentine course,\nnow twisting this way, now that, in making the ascent\nof the mountain. So steep are the grades that not more\nthan twelve freight cars are allowed to go down the mountain with one engine, and six of these are required to be\nequipped with air brakes.\nAs the railroad pursues its winding way along the side\nof the mountain, the passengers can look down into the\ngorge below, and see the old road which the Forty-niners\nused in their perilous trips across the continent to the gold-\nfields. Many travellers, it is said, were waylaid and killed\nin this section by the Indians; and many others lay down\nto die, utterly worn out with fatigue, after their long\nand unsuccessful wanderings in search of the precious\nmetal.\nFrom Colorado Springs we went to Pueblo. At that\nplace, through the courtesy of the officials of the Denver\nand Rio Grande Railroad, an observation car was placed at\nour disposal, and we made a run over their line of about\nforty-four miles to Canon City, through the Royal Gorge,\nin which the Arkansas River runs.\nIn many places the sides of the canyon through which\nthis stream flows are so close that the only way a railroad\ncould be built there was by putting rafters from one side to\nthe other and suspending the track from them over the\nsurging torrent beneath.\nJ 22\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nOur party enjoyed this trip very much, and returned to\nPueblo in time for dinner. Mr. Drake, Superintendent\nof the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad, now left\nus, having been in our company two days ; he had shown\nus all the points of interest along the route.\nm\nII\nHo*\n\u00C2\u00A3&\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\n1\nicy*.\n5fo\nm\n\u00C2\u00A3fe*i\n1\n&1\nWMn\nSI CHAPTER V.\nSANTA FE.\nON the morning of April 13th we left Trinidad with\none enormous consolidated locomotive and one\nmogul locomotive, and started over the Raton\nRange. The grade at this point is very steep, and it\ntook these two heavy engines to haul our train over. A\nlittle over thirty years ago, \" the Army of the West,\" then\nunder command of General Kearny, marched over almost\nthe same route the railroad takes to-day. When the\nsoldiers crossed the Raton Mountains they were often\nobliged to drag the wagons up with ropes on one side,\nand let them down on the other in the same way.\nAt the top of the mountains we passed through a long\ntunnel and then commenced the descent of the western\nslope. The tunnel is approached on either side by a very\nheavy grade, and in some places shows singular seams or\nstreaks of coal in its inner walls. Mr. Dyer, Superintendent of the New Mexico division of the Santa Fe road,\nhad joined us at Trinidad, and very kindly pointed out\nto us the objects of interest. We arrived at Las Vegas\n(which, in English, means \"the meadows\") about noon.\n23 \u00E2\u0096\u00A0HBi\n24\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nIt is at this point that passengers leave the train for the\nHot Springs, about seven miles distant.\nThe old Plaza, a short distance away from the railroad\nstation at Las Vegas, is said to look about the same as\nwhen General Kearny, after crossing the mountains, stood\nthere and made an address to the Mexican people. There\nis an ancient church with a rude cross in front. A large\nsingular looking three-story building also attracts the attention of the visitor. This is a hotel evidently of a rather\nprimitive pattern. A certain witty traveller once stopped\nhere, and the landlord assured him that he had slept in the\nsame bed which, centuries ago, had been occupied by Montezuma. In a burst of confidence the landlord also added\nthat he intended soon to put an additional story on the\nstructure. 11 told him,\" said the traveller, \" that he 'd\nbetter put a new story on the kitchen, and another coat of\nwhitewash on those slats I slept on.\"\nThe weather in this section was warm, almost summerlike. As we receded from the country we had just been\nvisiting, we looked back and saw the snow-capped mountains to the north of us, in the distance. As we journeyed\nto the south their towering icy peaks gradually grew smaller\nand smaller, and when we finally gained a complete entrance\ninto the Southern land, they seemed like mere specks on\nthe horizon.\nAt Lamy, where we arrived about two o'clock, we left\nthe main line and ran up to Santa Fe, reaching the\nquaint old city in a little over an hour. Our party there\ndivided, some taking carriages and others walking, and\nstarted out to see the town. The most enthusiastic Old Front of the San Miguel Church,\nSanta Fe. mesmwr.\nOn**\nrtiti'\nmm\nIN\n&3\nlii\nJi\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\nSvy^sv*\n>\u00C2\u00AB$!$\nAfe?,\n3CW J?-*?*1\nis^H\nKtt\n9J?\nAt Santa Fe.\n25\ntraveller would not call it a very inspiring place. The\nevidences of extreme poverty, dirt, and squalor were met\nwith on every side, and these the bright sun and genial\nclimate seemed rather to enhance than to modify. Poverty, when seen in some portions of a tropical climate, is\nneither sad nor disheartening, but there was something\nabout the appearance of the poor of this town that was\npeculiarly depressing to the visitor. In a large public\nsquare we noticed a number of improvements being made\nby a gang of convicts, who were guarded by keepers\nstationed around the fences, seated on boxes or other\nimprovised seats, each one with a heavy Winchester rifle\nacross his lap.\nWhile in this part of the country we cannot fail to\nrecall the fact that in 1527 a Spaniard, landing in what is\nnow Florida, made an overland journey which occupied\nhim nine years, passing through the country now known\nas New Mexico, and finally reached the City of Mexico.\nWe have already alluded to the enterprising soldier\nand explorer, Z. M. Pike, who did much to start the\nprofitable trade over what for years has been known as\nthe Santa Fe Trail. This old town, and the settlement\nadjacent to it had, up to that time, been dependent upon\nMexico for the various supplies they needed. Four men\nwho started in 1812, animated by the spirit of commercial\nenterprise, reached Santa Fe in safety, but they did not\nget back home until nine years later, having been imprisoned on some pretext or other. In the following\nyear, however\u00E2\u0080\u00941813,\u00E2\u0080\u0094the famous Santa Fe Trail was\nreally opened. It is about eight hundred miles in length,\n4 26\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nand remains very much to-day as it was half a century\nago, when the necessities of commercial intercourse led to\nits being opened.\nThe first traders used mules or pack-horses in carrying\ntheir merchandise, and it was not until 1824 that it was\ndeemed advisable to employ wagons in the traffic. After\nthis method of transportation was introduced, the amount\nof trade increased wonderfully. The initial points were\ntowns on the Missouri River, about one hundred and fifty\nmiles west of St. Louis. What a motley group of characters must have gathered at these centres in the early\ndays of travel across the plains ! Of course there were\ntraders, adventurers, plenty of that class of men who have\nfailed in nearly every undertaking, and who may be called\n\"the misfits\" of life; there were young men who came\nfrom the East to the new country, ready to take their\nchances in almost any kind of speculation ; and there were\nold men who thought, as their lives were going out toward\nthe setting sun of existence, their fortunes might as well\ntend in the same direction, and, singular to say, there were\nmany invalids who believed that this rough journey across\nthe plains, with its open-air life and excitement, might be\nto them a means of regaining the health they had lost.\nThe quaint wagons, or \" schooners,\" as they came to\nbe called, were at first drawn by horses, then mules, and\nfinally by mules and oxen. A party or caravan would\nnumber about one hundred wagons, and would be divided\ninto four equal sections, each in charge of some responsible man. At night the caravan would come to a halt,\nform a hollow square, and each member, in turn, would be Santa Fe.\n27\nobliged to mount guard. If these lay soldiers could have\nstood up together, the sight of them would surely have\nfurnished a greater fund of amusement than Falstaff's\nragged band of warriors, for here were men representing\nnot only all degrees of fortune, but all the leading nationalities, some of them, during their midnight vigils, as\nbrave and tempestuous as the lion-hearted Richard, others\nexhibiting the amusing\" cowardice of Bob Acres.\nIn addition to the merchandise, each wagon carried a\ngood supply of staples, flour, sugar, coffee, and bacon ;\nfor fresh meat they depended upon killing buffaloes along\nthe route.\nOne of the most interesting\" thing's we saw as we came\ndown the Raton Range through a pleasant valley, was the\nlarge \" Maxwell Grant,\" representing one and three-quarter\nmillion acres. While we were passing through this section,\nwe saw thousands and thousands of cattle roaming about,\nand twice during the day our train ran into a number of\nthem that had broken through the wire fence, unfortunately killing a few of the poor creatures each time. It\nwas a strange sight, also, to see beautiful antelope occasionally dart up close to the track, and then scamper\naway at the sound of the locomotive whistle.\nOur journey over the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa\nFe road we found very interesting on account of the\nbeautiful scenery along the route. The mechanical and\nworking condition of the road, also, was far better than we\nhad expected to find it. Its motive power is certainly equal\nto that of any road in the Eastern States, and, as far as\ncould be seen, it is kept in perfect repair. 'M\nWi:\nP\n:V !\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\nRM\n1\nKi^^\n28\nG\nalitor\nnia and Alaska.\nA word or two about our domestic life upon the train,\nto which, by this time, we had become thoroughly accustomed. It certainly seemed strange to us, while travelling\nthrough a wild and desolate country, to listen to the notes\nof the piano in the buffet-car which we found the pleasant-\nest of lounging places, as we spent nearly every evening\nafter dinner there singing and playing, the ladies generally\nretiring about ten, the rest of the party about eleven,\nafter talking over what we had seen during the day.\nIt was a long journey for children to undertake, but\nthey remained perfectly well, and it was surprising to see\nhow quickly the little ones became used to the motion of\nthe train. For two or three days after we started, it was\na matter of considerable difficulty for them to maintain\ntheir equilibrium in their journeys about the car ; this\nwas particularly the case with the baby. They had\nmany a fall, which, however, in the excitement of the\njourney, they took with much good-nature, and it was not\nlong before they could navigate about their swift-moving\nnursery with as much confidence as the oldest railroad\nconductor on the road.\nIt was a matter of great good-fortune to us that we\nbrought the dining-room car, for there was scarcely a meal\nat which there were not present one or two guests. On\nvarious divisions of the roads we travelled over, we entertained the officials who showed us so much courtesy, and\nit would have been utterly impossible to have cooked for\nsuch a large party in the kitchen of either the | Ellsmere \"\nor the \" Mariquita.\" We found, too, that our stores held\nout well, which was a matter to be thankful for, as it would\n\u00C2\u00BB\n*iJLf Santa Fe.\n29\nhave been very difficult, in fact impossible, to get some of\nthem in the sparsely settled country through which we\npassed. We received telegrams from home every day,\nand were thus kept en rapport with the domestic scenes\nwe had left, and we were careful to send dispatches quite\nas often to the members of our respective families. 51\n*\nCHAPTER VI.\nSANTA MONICA.\n!.\nUl\u00C2\u00ABi\nOWING to some misunderstanding, we were delayed in getting a crew on the Atlantic and\nPacific Railroad, and lost considerable time on\nthis account. This was the only road we had been over\nwhich did not provide a division superintendent to call\nattention to the scenery and point out the objects of\ninterest. The country was flat, and deserted-looking, and\nthe train meandered through it over a poor road-bed at a\nslow rate of speed. As we came over the Arizona divide\ndown to the Colorado River, the scenery was very fine.\nWhen we crossed Canon Diablo, the gruesome remembrance came to us that but two weeks before that time\na train was I held up\" by robbers.\nWhile singing hymns on Sunday evening, at a station\nwhere the train stopped to take water, an old resident of\nthe neighborhood came to our buffet-car, the door of which\nhad been left open on account of the heat. He received\na pleasant greeting, and apologized for his intrusion by\nsaying that he wanted to hear us sing the hymns and play\nthe piano, as the music was something he never heard out\n*1\nJ Santa Monica.\n31\nthere; it was thirty years since he had been in any part of\nthe country where religious tunes were sung.\nThe scenery near a point called Flag Staff was very\npeculiar and different from any thing we had seen on this\nroad thus far. An hour or so before reaching this point,\nwe entered a large grove of yellow pine-trees through\nwhich we rode until we reached the station mentioned.\nWe passed through the Mojave Desert early on the morning of Monday, April 15th ; as there was a very heavy dew\nthe night before, we fortunately did not suffer from the dust\nto any extent. This desert must truly be a terrible place\nto pass through on a hot summer's day. With the exception of the stubbly cactus, not a particle of vegetation of\nany kind can be seen as far as the eye can reach.\nOn our arrival at Barstow, the officials of the California\nCentral Railroad gave our train a fine run over the San\nBernardino Mountains. In the high altitudes which we\ntraversed we passed through snow near the summits of the\nhilltops ; then, coming down the mountain (the grade being\none hundred and ninety feet per mile) we gradually entered\na beautiful green and fertile valley. The town of San Bernardino, which was an old Mormon settlement, is located\nhere, and just before entering it, we passed through an\norange grove covered with a wealth of beautiful flowers.\nThe grass in the fields was growing luxuriantly, and the\ncontrast between the cold and desolation of the mountain\nheights we had just left and the beautiful valley we were\nentering was truly remarkable.\nThe whole valley is walled in by bold and precipitous\nmountains formed of soft, white stone, giving them the\n1 California and Alaska.\nappearance of white sand. Fruit of all kinds grows in\nabundance, particularly the orange and the lemon.\nFrom San Bernardino we took the California Southern\nroad to Los Angeles, passing through Pasadena, celebrated for its orange and fruit groves; the temptation to\nstop here was very great, but had to be resisted. At Los\nAngeles the agent of the Central Pacific Railroad Company met our party, presenting a very kind letter from Mr.\nTowne, the General Manager, who urged us to make our\nown plans for travelling over his road, stating that every\nconvenience would be at our command, and adding that\nwe should not hesitate to call upon him for any service we\nwanted. An engine and crew were placed at our disposal\nimmediately with orders to remain with us as long as we\nrequired their services.\nWe left at once for Santa Monica, a charming watering-\nplace on the coast but a few miles distant. It was here that\nwe obtained our first view of the Pacific Ocean, the sight\nof which served to remind us more strongly than could a\nglance at our itinerary of the vast amount of territory we\nhad covered ; for it was only nine days before this that we\nhad left the Grand Central Depot in New York, and felt\nthe warm hand-pressure of our friends who had bade\nus good-bye. Considering the number of nights we did\nnot travel, and the number of days spent in visiting\ndifferent points of interest, the trip had been truly remarkable. We had cause to be thankful, also, that there had\nbeen no accidents of any importance, and that all our party\nwere in the enjoyment of perfect health. Every part of\nour train, up to this time, stood the trip remarkably well, South Pasadena, Sierra Madre Mountains, and Raymond Hotel.\nSB\nJ n\nassBosm\nBBBB\n^WgBSBagggMgMBPBMgggS\nBH\n\u00C2\u00A3*?\nvc\n^\n\nW.\nt>*.\ jii\nt\nI\nI\nJ Hotel del Monte, Monterey. i. a uii\n\/v^nv*^vv t*-r\ W 7S\nrani\n2*!\nBfJ\nBttKRS^\nif:\nE8\n\u00C2\u00BB\u00E2\u0080\u00A2 Monterey.\n43\nMines, in the province of La Mancha, Spain. The\nshaft to the mine runs hundreds of feet straight down\ninto the earth, and the ore is brought up in iron-bound\nbuckets. The men descend to their work, and come back\nagain to the tunnel leading to the mouth of the engine-\nroom, by means of the bucket. The tunnel is very dark,\nand its walls drip with damp. Among the miners are\nmany Mexicans, who have considerable skill and experience in this kind of work ; and there are also English, Welsh, Scotch, and Irish among the workers.\nAfter a delay of half an hour at San Jose, we started\nfor Monterey, at which point we arrived about ten o'clock.\nThe place charmed us at once, being one of the finest\nwe had ever seen. We had all been talking of the beauties\nof Southern California, of the fruits of Los Angeles, of\nthe beach at Santa Monica, of the richness of the country\naround San Bernardino and Pasadena, but the charms of\nMonterey exceeded any thing we had thus far seen. The\nwalks and drives through the Park were delightful, and the\nplace, as a health resort, undoubtedly has no equal in the\ncountry. We were very pleasantly located on the second\nstory of the Hotel Del Monte, facing the south, our rooms\nall being sunny, and our comfort provided for in the most\nthoughtful manner by the hotel proprietor. We met here\nseveral invalids, who spoke most enthusiastically of the\nhealth-restoring properties of the place. They told us\nhow they had stopped at Thomasville, the Hot Springs,\nat Las Vegas, Pasadena, and other places, of how they\nhad suffered there in one way or another, and added\nthat after they arrived in Monterey, and had been there a fe )\n> <&\n%\nt\n^Sfc\nIr\n2S\u00C2\u00AB\nm3i|\n,;l j\nP\n44\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nfew days, they felt as if they were on the sure road to\nhealth. Every thing at this place tends to make one feel\ncheerful and hopeful. We noticed that the number of\nhealthy people far exceeded the contingent of invalids,\nwhich is a very important factor in the cure of disease, and\nthere were none of those depressing surroundings which\nare so often met with at the regular health resorts.\nThe bathing pavilion connected with the hotel is certainly a wonder in its way. It is quite large, being about\nfour hundred feet square, has a glass roof, and is filled\nwith palms. In the centre are four large tanks. In the\nfirst one, used for women and children, the water is from\nthree to four feet deep, and its temperature about eighty-\nfive degrees. The next tank is about five feet deep, with\na temperature of seventy-five degrees; the third about\nseven feet deep, with a temperature of seventy. The\nfourth tank is about eight feet deep, and contains the\nnatural sea-water, which is pumped into it without being\nheated. The accommodations in the way of dressing-\nrooms, in both the male and female departments, are perfect in their way. It is certainly one of the most complete\nbathing establishments in the country.\nThose who have read Dana's \" Two Years before the\nMast \" will remember that he speaks of visiting Monterey,\nat a time when its life must have been very picturesque.\nHe speaks of the pride people took in tracing back their\nancestry to the Spaniards, saying that the least drop of\nSpanish blood was held to be sufficient to raise them from\nthe rank of slaves, and entitle them to a suit of clothes,\nboots, hat, cloak, spurs, long knife, and all complete, how- Arizona Garden at Del Monte. BE\n*tf,. :ln\nA?\nI\nElm I\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2Ih I I\nK%1\n1 lo\niff\nj**r\nKtm\nu as\nMMHM\nk*-^\n'\ni\nM\nMLM>\nRw f ill\n||| ffl\nIf i\n1\nI\nJ i\nThe Lake at Monterey. EM\nm\n1\n\"\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\nJ hf I\n<\u00C2\u00AB*9!9aaBanBBi\niw\nm Monterey\n45\never coarse and dirty they might be. The native women\nwere excessively fond of dress, and nothing was more\ncommon than to see a woman living in a house of only\ntwo rooms, and the ground for a floor, dressed in spangled\nsatin shoes, silk gown, high comb, and gilt, if not gold, earrings and necklace. He was struck with the fineness of\nthe voices and beauty of the intonations of both sexes.\nCommon-looking ruffians, with slouched hat, blanket cloak,\ndirty under-dress, and soiled leather leggings, appeared to\nspeak pure and elegant Spanish. A common bullock driver,\non horseback delivering a message, seemed to speak like an\nambassador at an audience; in fact, they seemed to be a\npeople on whom a curse had fallen, which had stripped\nthem of every thing but their pride, their manners, and\ntheir voices.\nThe town was under Mexican rule at this time, its\nchief officer being a governor-general, appointed by the\ncentral government at Mexico ; then there was a commandant, and two or three alcaldes and corregidores, who\nwere civil officers, elected by the inhabitants. Dana tells\nus that the houses at that time were of one story, built of\nclay made into large bricks, about a foot and a half square,\nthree or four inches thick, and hardened in the sun. These\nwere cemented together by mortar of the same material,\nthe whole being of a common dirt color. The floors were\ngenerally of earth, the windows grated and without glass,\nand the doors opened directly into the common room.\nThe men in Monterey always appeared to be on horseback, and, there being no stables, the animals were allowed to run wild wherever they pleased, being branded, \u00E2\u0096\u00A0Hfc\nBaP \u00E2\u0096\u00A0 \u00E2\u0096\u00A0\"\nI If !\n46\nCalifornia and Alask\n*.a.\nml\n1\nand having long lariats attached to their necks, dragging\nalong behind them, and by which they could be easily\ntaken. The men used to catch one in the morning, throw\na saddle and bridle upon him, and use him for the day\nand let him go at night, catching another the next day.\nWe remained nearly two weeks at Monterey, thoroughly enjoying our visit. While we were here, a number\nof mechanics came from San Francisco, by order of Mr.\nTowne, and overhauled our train, changing some springs\nin the \" Ellsmere,\" \" Mariquita,\" and buffet-car, and putting\non a new coupler in place of the one between the \" Mariquita\" and dining-car, which we were obliged to repair at\nDetroit. The train was also thoroughly cleaned, both\ninside and out, and carefully aired.\nEvery day we all went in swimming, while the afternoons were occupied with drives along the picturesque\nbeach, or up the valley. On Easter Sunday we attended\nchurch at a little town called New Monterey, about six\nmiles distant. As the children all showed a marked improvement in health, particularly the little girl, for whom\nour trip was delayed, our stay at Monterey was principally\non their account.\nOur evenings (which were generally spent sitting around\na large open fire in the office of the hotel, which resembles\nvery much the Profile House in the White Mountains,\nthough of course the building at Monterey was a great\ndeal larger and the ceilings very much higher) were\nvaried by exhibitions on the graphophone, which we\nbrought from New York, many of the people at the hotel\nnever having seen one. It was the opinion of our party\nii The Picnic Party at Monterey. es\n>4>\nI\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0paBK\nI\nb# Old Live Oak at Monterey. mmm\n%\nm L A j\nI\n,V , f\n*H\nw\nlit\nf;f\nI\ni\nMt Monterey. 47\nthat this hotel was, without exception, one of the cleanest\nand most neatly kept hotels to be found in the United\nStates. On one afternoon we all went down to our train,\nafter lunch, and gave a little reception to the friends we\nhad made in the hotel, closing with an informal afternoon\ntea. Our cook had prepared a very palatable cold collation, and our crew took as much pride and pleasure in\nthis social occurrence as we did ourselves.\nOn Saturday, April 20th, one of those exquisite days\nthat can only be found in this climate, we enjoyed a\npic-nic given by two gentlemen of our party, in the pine\ngrove on the ocean drive. Early on that morning, with\nthe two stewards of our train, and servants from the hotel,\nthey drove out to the grove and prepared the lunch. About\ntwelve o'clock we took two large four-in-hands and drove\nout to meet them. We arrived about one o'clock and\nenjoyed a most delightful repast, after which one of the\nparty took three or four photographic views of the scene,\nfrom one of which the accompanying sketch is taken.\nThe neat appearance of the Hotel Del Monte, of\nwhich we have spoken, was largely due, according to the\nstatement of its manager, to the use of Chinese servants,\nabout sixteen of whom, divided into gangs of four, were\nconstantly engaged in the work of cleaning. The head-\ngardener of the hotel grounds gave some very interesting information in regard to the manner in which they\nwere laid out, Chinese laborers being employed to do the\nwork.\nThe Chinese, as laborers, are very important factors\nin the industrial civilization of the far West. Nearly\nJ 1\nS\n1.\nHi 1\nmm ill\n]\nEjJ| II\n4\n48\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nevery town west of the Rocky Mountains and Utah has\nits Chinese quarter. They swarm along the line of\nthe Pacific Railroad, and are found in the old mining\ngulches of the mountains. In every village of California,\nOregon, Idaho, Nevada, and up in British Columbia they\nare met with, engaged in some kind of service, as\ncooks, table-waiters, nurses, gardeners, laundrymen, railroad builders, miners, agriculturists, servants, and as\nassistants in manufacturing establishments. They began\nto come to the Pacific States in 1852, and though their\ncapacity for learning is very limited, being confined principally to the power of imitation, they learn quickly, and\nthey are quiet, clean, and faithful, and do not go on\nI sprees,\" as some of their white neighbors do. On\naccount of their genius for imitation they make good\ncooks, and they are very successful in cultivating a small\nvegetable gfarden. The Pacific Railroad would have been\ndelayed some years, and cost much more money, if it had\nnot been for Chinese labor.\nOne of our most enjoyable afternoon drives was with\na four-in-hand, and covered a distance of seventeen miles,\npart of the trip being through a delicious pine woods.\nThis drive is one of the most celebrated around Monterey.\nWhile near the shore we passed rocks whose tops just\nappeared above the water, and were covered with seals.\nAccompanying illustrations show the drive through the\npines and a rock covered with seals. These seals, or Cali-\nfornian sea-lions as they are sometimes called, have always\nbeen objects of interest to the traveller in these parts.\nThey crawl up from the water awkwardly and blunder-\n&$ I\nIII\n$0i m\n11\nl3!\nill\n\u00C2\u00AB\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0fl El ,' t2\nHit\ni& \u00E2\u0096\u00A0\nfell\nPi1\nPill\nI\n\"\u00E2\u0080\u00A2w\nrv v\nii\n&\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0II\n_^* Rocks, near Monterey.\ny\ny\nmm&mk\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\u00E2\u0096\u00A0fe \u00E2\u0080\u00A2I* F\nHI I\nII 1 aw\nm\nu vl\nII j\n1 t I\n11 Monterey.\n49\ningly, like babies just beginning to creep, and spread\nthemselves out over the rocks, lying there as if in a\ncomatose state. Now and then they raise their heads and\nutter a loud piercing bark, apparently without any purpose whatever. When a party of two or three are on a\nrock, and they are disturbed by a new-comer, there is a\nlanguid sort of combat, and a great deal of barking and\ngrumbling, when all of a sudden, seeming to tire of these\nuseless proceedings, they suddenly plunge into the sea.\nWhen from the water you approach a point occupied by a\nnumerous herd, you hear their long, plaintive howlings,\nas if in distress ; but when near them the sounds become\nmore varied and deafening. The old males roar so loudly\nas to drown the noise of the heaviest surf among the rocks\nand caverns, and the younger of both sexes croak hoarsely,\nor send forth sounds like the bleating of sheep or the\nbarking of dogs. What is called a \" rookery 1 of matured\nanimals presents a ferocious and defiant appearance; but\nusually at the approach of man they become alarmed, and\nif not opposed in their escape roll, tumble, and sometimes\nmake fearful leaps from high precipitous rocks to hasten\ntheir flight. It is a singular fact that young seals, from\ntheir birth until they are six weeks old, are utterly unable\nto swim. They learn this, to them, very necessary accomplishment, by going to the margin of the surf and floundering around in the pools, after which they make slow\nand clumsy progress in learning the knack of swimming.\nBy repeated and persistent efforts the young seal gradually\nbecomes familiar with the water, and acquainted with his\nown power over that element, which is to be his real home ;o\nCalifornia and Alaska.\ni\n'II [If\narall\na\nand his whole support. Once having learned the art, the\nyoung one fairly revels in his new happiness.\nNaturalists affirm that, notwithstanding the fact that\nthe seal is a very clumsy animal, and with a very small\nhead, compared to the size of his body, his intelligence is\ngreater than that of many land animals. Those who saw\nthe seals in Barnum's exhibition two years ago will certainly be prepared to confirm this statement. The seals\non the rocks near the Cliff House, San Francisco, become\nalmost friendly with some of the residents of the hotel,\ncertainly as tame as ordinary domestic animals. But long\nbefore Barnum's seals were exhibited, there was a trained\nseal shown in London, who could bow to his visitors, and\nshowed considerable intelligence in performing tricks.\nf Seal Rock Covered with Seals, near\nMonterey. ESSE\ntmamm*\nI\nif II\nIS\nOil\nte\n& .'I\nml\niill\nsrl m\nWMHH\n\"Mtifim\nimm\nramp\nw^iSiSftil wm mm\nliiSBF K\u00E2\u0084\u00A2\u00E2\u0084\u00A2\nBMHHH1\nKllillii\n'iiiiif ffl .jjmmBaasss^sa\n\u00C2\u00AB\nft.\nWK\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2Vi:\nU &\nfj4\n\u00C2\u00ABP-\n12\nM On the Coast, near Monterey. n J \u00C2\u00ABCAr\n#j\nP&\nM\n*H\nV.\\nWW\n\?Q\nI\n4\nrj CHAPTER IX.\nTHE MISSIONS.\nNO record of a journey in the far western section of\nthe United States would be complete without\nsome account of the famous Spanish missions.\nIn the State of California alone there are about fifty towns\nwhose names bear the prefix of the Spanish word San,\nequivalent to saint. That there is a religious or, at all\nevents, an ecclesiastical significance attached to these\nsettlements, will be apparent at once. The story of these\nmissions is exceedingly interesting, and yet remains to be\nwritten with the fulness and accuracy the subject deserves.\nA few years before his death, our poet Longfellow, in\nacknowledging the receipt of a monograph on this subject\nof the missions, wrote to the giver, a resident of California : \" A strange feeling of romance hovers about\nthose old Spanish missions of California, difficult to define, and difficult to escape. They add much to the poetic\natmosphere of the Pacific coast.\"\nThe first permanent mission in California was founded\nat Loretto, in 1697. From that point, Christianity gradually extended to the north, stations were established at \"mmt\nm r\nM\n52\nCalifornia and Alaska.\ndifferent points, and efforts made to christianize the\nIndians. The missionaries were frequently attacked by\nthe red men, and the progress that was made was accompanied by considerable loss of life. Later on, the Jesuits\ncame to this section, but met with a very poor reception,\nuntil, at last, every Jesuit in the State was carried off a\nprisoner. These Jesuits were replaced by Franciscan\nmonks, who always travelled in parties of twelve. A\nparty of them reached Loretto, which was then the centre\nof the mission work, in 1768. By order of the Mexican\nGovernment, three missions were founded in Upper California\u00E2\u0080\u0094one at San Carlos de Monterey in the north,\nanother at San Diego in the south, and a third at San\nBonaventura in the middle district. The expedition\nstarted out in three divisions, one by land, and two by\nsea. The mission of San Diego was founded on the 16th\nof July, 1769, on the banks of the stream of that name.\nThe native Indians were apparently friendly, and every\nthing seemed to promise success. No sooner, however,\nhad the missionaries erected two houses and a chapel, and\nwere congratulating themselves on the prospective success\nof their undertaking, than the Indians commenced depredations. The door of the priest's dwelling was only a\nmat, and before they could resist their assailants, four or\nfive of the inmates were wounded. Not long- after this,\nhowever, amicable relations were established with the\nnatives. This was the first of the series of missions which\nwere established along the coast. The new settlement\nwas placed under the tutelary guardianship of the patron\nsaint of the Franciscans, San Diego, the Spanish for St. Proof\nETCHING\nMission of San Luis Rey, Cal.\nBy C. V. TURNER. ytf\"'HHW'\n33\nMm\n\%\nSi\n$&.\nHi\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2Jt\\nm i y\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\u00C2\u00AB\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 f\n<\n<\nz\nz\n<\n<\n\u00C2\u00AB/T \u00C2\u00A3\n3\n<\nz\n<\n\u00C2\u00A7\nLivres,\nBrochure\nRevues,\nJournaux\nEtc.\ni\n< I*mf*\nm*\nI\nJ\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 i ia^Mfcjuu\u00C2\u00BB\u00E2\u0080\u0094s t\nJ n\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0Tffff\nw!\nfe\nK,\n&4!\nr,Ml\n&,\n\u00C2\u00ABii The Missions.\n53\nJames, and his name was given to the mission and the bay\nnear which it was situated. In the year 1810 San Dieo-o\nwas the largest mission in the State, though this was not\nby any means a gauge of worldly prosperity.\nThe mission San Luis Rey was one of the largest\nestablishments of this kind. It was founded in the wilderness on the banks of the San Luis, right in the heart\nof the Indian country. It was started in a thatched\ncottage, and became one of the greatest of the Californian\nmissions. Its church of stone is ninety feet deep, and\nrises at one end in a beautiful tower and dome; and from\nits facade there extends a colonnade, not without architectural beauty, and nearly five hundred feet long, while in\ndepth it is almost of equal dimensions. Father Peyri, its\nfounder, was not only an architect but an able mission-\ndirector. It was not long before he had thirty-five hundred Indian converts, scattered in twenty ranches, and the\nwhole place bore marks of industry, peace, and plenty.\nThe etching by Mr. Turner, herewith, gives a perfect\nrepresentation of how this famous mission appears at the\npresent time.\nIn the early days of these missions, some singular\ncustoms came into the Church. There were certain\npractices of ceremonial used by the Indians that were\ngradually introduced into the Church service, not with\nthe approval of the priests, but tolerated by them.\nIndian Catholics, for instance, were in the habit of\ndancing before the shrine of a saint; or rather, it should\nbe said, the custom was pursued by the very young female\nconverts. The practice had prevailed in Mexico, probably\nI OS\nss\nm\nMT*\nfr\n\u00C2\u00BB!\nI\nI\n&\nIf\nm\nml\nIf\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2Hi\nIt\n1\n.||, t;M\nli\n*a\ni\n54\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nas a relic of paganism, where it was also tolerated, but not\napproved. There is an anecdote told by a Spanish writer\nabout the attempt of an archbishop to prohibit this\ndancing as sacrilegious. This raised such a tumult among\nthe people that the Archbishop appealed to the Pope.\nThe Pope ordered that the boys and girls should be\nbrought to Rome in order that he migrit see them dance.\nAfter he had witnessed the performance, he laughingly\nordered that they should be allowed to dance until the\nclothes they had on were worn out. The young people\ntook the hint, and shrewdly saw to it that their clothes\nwere always renewed piecemeal, so as never to be really\nnew, and thus, according to the Pope's decision, the\ndancing was allowed to go on without direct slight to the\nArchbishop's scruples.\nGenerally speaking, what may be called the mission era\nin California began in 1769 and lasted until 1823. Between those years twenty-one missions were established,\nextending from San Diego in the south, to San Rafael and\nSonoma north of San Francisco. The mission of San\nFrancisco was started in a rustic chapel in 1776, and the\ncountry around the bay was explored by the missionaries.\nMost of the missions were laid out in the form of a\nhollow square; the enclosing wall of adobe bricks was\ntwelve feet high and three hundred feet in length, on each\nside. A rectangular building, eighty or ninety yards in\nfront, and about as deep, composed the mission. In one\nend was the church and parsonage. The interior was a\nlarge and beautiful court, adorned with trees and fountains, surrounded by galleries, on which opened the rooms\n3S Mission of Santa Barbara\u00E2\u0080\u0094Building. V*\nMIU\nW\nII Mission of Santa Barbara\u00E2\u0080\u0094The Garden. pf\nfcwu.3\nmm\nIII '] ||\nill- i A\nThe Missions.\n55\nof the missionaries, stewards, and travellers, the shops,\nschools, store-rooms, and granary. In fact, the mission was\nat once a religious station, a fortress, and a town. A\npopulation was gathered around this centre, sometimes by\npersuasion, and sometimes by a show of force, and the\npeople were taught to construct habitations outside the\nwalls, and instructed in the various arts of peace and civilization. These small communities prospered for fifty\nyears; they were havens of rest during the peaceful and\npastoral days of California.\nConnected with the mission was a building called the\nmonastery, where Indian girls were taught by native women\nspinning and weaving, and other duties peculiar to their\nsex. The boys were taught trades, and those who showed\nexcellence, were promoted to the rank of chiefs, thus giving\na dignity to labor and an impulse to exertion.\nEach mission was directed by two friars, one of whom\ntook charge of the religious instruction, while the other\nwas the superintendent of the outside labors. It is surprising, considering the small facilities at hand, how much\nthese missionaries accomplished in agriculture, architecture, and mechanics. They built mills, machines, bridges,\nroads, canals for irrigation, and succeeded, even in that\nearly day, in transforming hostile and indolent savages\ninto industrious carpenters, masons, coopers, saddlers,\nshoemakers, weavers, stone-cutters, brick-makers, and\nlime-burners. A United States commissioner (Bartlett)\nhas borne testimony to the good work done at that time.\n\" Five thousand Indians,\" he says, \" were, at one time,\ncollected at the mission of San Gabriel. They are repre-\n\"ii\nJ California and Alaska.\nsented to have been sober and industrious, well clothed\nand fed; and seem to have experienced as high a state of\nhappiness as they are adapted by Nature to receive. They\nbegan to learn some of the fundamental principles of\ncivilized life. The institution of marriage began to be\nrespected, and, blessed by the rites of religion, grew to be\nso much considered, that deviations from its duties were\nsomewhat infrequent occurrences.\"\nIn 1834 the property of the missions was secularized,\nand they rapidly decayed. In 1846 they were taken by the\nUnited States, and in 1847 they had a population of 450.\nAt the mission of San Gabriel, at this time, excellent wine\nwas being produced, and ships loaded with the products\nof the mission sailed regularly for Lima and San Bias.\nThe missions collectively contained 30,650 Indians, 424,-\n000 head of cattle, 62,500 horses, 322,000 sheep, and raised\nannually 123,000 bushels of wheat and maize. This property, under the direction of the government, was handed\nover to the authorities, who allotted some to each family.\nThe missionaries were allowed rations for their support.\nThe civil war, the discovery of gold, which drew a new\npopulation to the country, and the disappearance of the\nIndians to the mountains and forests, led to the dissolution\nof the missions, as they were originally established.\nWe resume the story of our journey. On the evening\nof April 22d, an agent of the Yosemite stage line came\nfrom San Francisco to Monterey, for the purpose of making final arrangements for our trip to the far-famed valley.\nIt was planned that we should have special stages all the\nway in and out, with the probability of making the return Ill\nII w\nwm::: ft\nI TC 1\nP-8\n14\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 r\nMission of San Carlos, near Monterey.\nmmm It\n11\nr The Missions.\njourney from the Yosemite in one day. This trip has\nnever before been made in a shorter time. The following\nO\nmorning, the 23d, we took our bath a little earlier than\nusual, and gathered our things together preparatory to\nleaving on the two-o'clock train.\nWe came as far as San Jose on the regular train. A\nspecial engine met us at this place and took the car 1 Ellsmere \" through to Oakland. The rest of our train had\nbeen left at Monterey, with all the crew, except George de\nBarr, our chief steward, Armstrong, and our cook, Scotty.\nWe arrived at Oakland about six o'clock. This is the\nprincipal town on the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay,\nalmost directly opposite the \" Golden City \" itself. The\ncity owes its name to its magnificent groves of live oaks in\nwhich it was originally built, but it has now grown far beyond their limits. These trees are not merely ornamental,\nbut subserve a useful purpose for parts of the town, in\nscreening\" them from the fierce winds which come through\nthe gap of the Golden Gate in the summer months, and to\nthe force of which Oakland is especially exposed. The\nUniversity of California is located here, and consists of\nvarious colleges devoted to arts, letters, and professional\nlife. The drives around the city are very beautiful,\nquite equal to those of San Francisco, and good roads\npenetrate the surrounding country in every direction.\nAt Oakland Point, two miles from the city, there is\nan immense iron pier over the bay to the ferry-boat,\nwhich conveys passengers and freight to the city of\nSan Francisco. This wonderful pier, or rather wharf, is\non the east side of San Franciso, and is eleven thousand\n-=^ California and Alaska.\nfeet long, running out to a depth of twenty-four feet at\nlow tide, and of thirty-one feet at high tide. Upon its last\nthousand feet it has twelve railroad tracks, a wide carriageway, a passenger depot and railroad offices, ware-houses,\nand outside storage for forty thousand tons of grain or other\nmerchandise, and three large docks, one of which affords\nample space for five of the largest steamers or clippers afloat.\nThe piles used, where the water deepens, are sixty-five feet\nlong, and are forty-two to fifty-four inches in circumference.\nThe main wharf is eight hundred feet wide at the extreme\nor western end, and on it are pens for five hundred cattle,\ntwo immense warehouses, and a large passenger depot.\nAt Oakland we were met by Mr. Curtis, Mr. Towne's\nassistant general manager, who took us over to San Francisco, where we all had dinner at the Cafe Riche. After\ndinner we walked back to the boat, and took the 9.15 train\nfor the south. As our train was leaving the depot, an\nofficer on the staff of General Miles, commanding the\nDepartment of the Pacific, presented us with the General's\ncard, saying that he hoped we would notify him of our\nreturn to the city, in order that he might render some\nservice to make our stay in San Francisco agreeable.\nWe reached Berenda about four o'clock on the morning\nof April 24th, then took a branch line to Raymond, arriving there about three hours afterwards. After breakfast\nwe took a four-horse stage and started for Wawona, which\nis sometimes called Clark's. We had dinner at a half-way\nstation called Grant's. The drive was exceedingly interesting from the manner in which the driver managed his\nhorses, and also on account of the kind of horses used fon\nthis work. We changed horses seven times between Ray- A Farm Team near the Mission, Monterey,. if\nKIT) I\nm\nfl\nIf\nm\n31\ni Ill\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\n:.!<\nI\nI The Missions.\n59\nmond and Wawona, each change consisting of four horses.\nIt was surprising to see what wiry beasts they were, and\nwhat an immense amount of work they could accomplish.\nOur shortest drive between the changes was six miles.\nOn this we had four half-wild, wiry, Nevada ponies, roans,\nand they literally ran all the distance. Their speed was\nso great that we were very much concerned lest they\nshould run away entirely; but we were fortunate in having\nan expert driver to go over the route with us. The manner in which the stage would whirl around corners and\ndash down hills was quite appalling, and made the remembrance of past experiences in the Catskills and the White\nMountains seem tame, almost uninteresting. But all this\nrapid driving was done with good judgment. The brakes\nwere tightly applied to the wheels when occasion required,\nthe effect being to bind the running-gear and the body of\nthe vehicle together, thus preventing any swaying motion\nand any possibility of upsetting. When night came we\nall felt fatigued, and, after a short walk, retired early, in\norder to be prepared for a timely start on the following\nmorning. I\nii\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\ni\nCHAPTER X.\nTHE YOSEMITE VALLEY.\nN the morning of the\n25th of April we rose\nat five o'clock, and, after\na hurried breakfast, started,\nwith a light wagon and four\nhorses, to see the Big Trees.\nTwo members of our party,\nMr. and Mrs. Purdy, did not\naccompany us on this trip,\nas they had visited the scene\nabout three years ago.\nThe Big Trees are certainly one of\nthe most remarkable features of California\nscenery. No other one of the natural curiosities of the\nPacific States has become so widely known as these trees.\nThey were discovered in 1852, and at once became famous\nover the world, more particularly on account of the exaggerated statements in regard to their size and age. There\nare several groves of them, such as the Calaveras, the\nMariposa, the South Grove, the Frezno Grove, and prob-\n60 1!\nS3;\nw I\nm \u00E2\u0096\u00A0\n1\nI\n! The Yosemite Valley.\n61\nably many others not yet discovered. Although the name\nof \"I. M. Wooster, 1850,\" is carved on one of these trees,\nit was not till 1852 that a hunter, by the name of Dowd,\nhaving wounded a bear, while pursuing his calling in\nthese parts, really discovered them. He was following up\nthe wounded animal, when he came to a group of these\nmonsters of the forest. In his wonder at the sight he\nforgot all about pursuing the bear, and quickly returned\nto his camp, where he told his companions of what he had\nseen. His storv was received with shouts of laughter and\nderision. Wishing to prove the truthfulness of his tale, a\nfew days afterwards he told his companions that he had\nshot a big grizzly bear up in the mountains, and requested\ntheir help to get the beast. The party started off, Dowd\nleading the way over the path he had followed a few days\nbefore, until, finally, he brought them face to face with\nthe Big Trees; they saw at once that, though he had\ndeceived them about the bear, he had not been guilty\nof exaggeration in regard to the trees. So it appears\nthat, though Wooster, whose identity never seems to\nhave been established, may have first discovered them,\nDowd, the hunter, was the first to make them known to\nthe world.\nThese trees have been seen by visitors from all parts\nof the world, and have been viewed with feelings of awe\nand wonder. The Calaveras Grove is five miles long, and,\nby some travellers, is considered the most desirable to\nvisit; but we think the majority of sight-seers would\nprefer the Mariposa Grove, as the Calaveras has lost\nmuch of its primitive condition\u00E2\u0080\u0094as one man says, \" has 62\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nbeen converted into something like a tea-garden \"\u00E2\u0080\u0094while\nthe former remains in its original state. The Mariposa\nGrove is also regarded as being the most attractive,\nbecause here the trees are greater in diameter and much\nmore numerous. There are four hundred and twenty-\nseven of them in the grove, varying in size from twenty\nto thirty-four feet in diameter, and from two hundred and\nseventy-five to three hundred and twenty-five feet in\nheight. Botanically speaking, they are of the Sequoia\ngigantea species. There seems to be a belt of them\nrunning along the slopes of the Sierras, about four or\nfive thousand feet above the sea level, and as far south\nas Visalia. They are so plentiful near that place that they\nare sawed up and used for lumber. In the same neighborhood, the Indians report a tree far in the forest, which\nis said to surpass in grandeur any tree of the kind that\nhas ever been seen ; so far, no white man has ever beheld\nit. The leaf of the Sequoia gigantea is very much like that\nof the Arbor-vitce, the bark is soft and very spongy, and of\na light-brown color; on all the largest trees it measures\nfrom twenty to thirty-two inches in thickness. This species\ngrows on mountain slopes and is watered by the springs\nthat come down the hill-sides, and which are filled with\nparticles of fertilizing rocks and the decayed vegetation\nof centuries. For six months in the year it is warmed\nby a tropical sun and refreshed by the balmy air of the\nPacific; in winter its roots have a warm covering of snow,\nand it is said, of some of these trees at least, that the\nground never freezes beneath them. In fact, they have\ngot nothing to do but to grow, and it is interesting to El Capitan, Yosemite Valley\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 Is,\nP \u00E2\u0080\u00A2 /\nI\nm \u00E2\u0096\u00A0P\n^1\nSi\nif (ar/\nI\n*n\n'i\nt\nA The Yosemite Valley.\n63\nnote that this species is not wearing out, for young\ntrees can be seen growing vigorously. We say young\ntrees, meaning about four hundred years old, because the\nmonsters themselves are over two thousand years old.\nOne of the largest of these is the Grizzly Giant; it\nis one hundred and seven feet in circumference, and in\nthe thickest place thirty-four feet in diameter. The first\nbranch is nearly two hundred feet from the ground,\nand is eight feet in diameter. The writer took a number of photographs of these trees and several views\nin the immediate neighborhood ; from these the illustrations which appear in this book were made. Most of the\nlarge trees have special names attached to them. Many\nare named after the States, others are named after celebrated men, such as Longfellow, Lincoln, Grant, Ferdinand\nde Lesseps, George Washington, Daniel Webster, W. H.\nSeward, and Andrew Johnson. It seems a little incongruous that the names of these modern celebrities should\nbe attached to trees whose chief claim to recognition, aside\nfrom their size, is their great age\u00E2\u0080\u0094trees that existed before\nTitus besieged Jerusalem, which were the contemporaries\nof an Attila or a Constantine, and which bid fair to live\nwhen the names they bear shall have faded into oblivion.\nIncongruous though it may be, however, it is gratifying\nthat the names they bear are those of Americans. The\npertinence of this remark will appear, when I mention\nthat the first British botanist who saw the trees, had the\nmonumental assurance to christen them Wellingtonia,\nalthough years before they had received the name of\nWashingtonia. British botanists still call the trees 64\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nWellingtonia, and will probably continue to do so for\ntheir own satisfaction.\nProbably a quarter of the trees in all the groves are\nover twenty-five feet in diameter; the stump of one of\nthem, thirty-two feet in diameter, has a house built over\nit. Five men worked twenty-five days with pump-augurs\nbefore they could cut it down. The stump is cut five feet\nfrom the ground, and a party of thirty-two have danced\non it at once, not counting the musicians and spectators,\nwho filled up part of the space. Twenty feet in length\nof this log would make forty-nine thousand feet of boards,\nwhich would be worth several thousand dollars.\nOne of the trees has been tunnelled, and a road built\nthrough it, so that coaches can drive inside. When standing underneath it the leaders' heads are just outside the\narch of the tree at one end, while the end of the coach is\njust outside the arch at the other. This, perhaps, will give\na better idea of the enormous diameter of these trees than\nany arithmetical statements. The width of the opening\nthrough this tree is sufficient to allow two stages to\npass each other inside the tree. The Faithful Couple is\nabout twenty-eight feet in diameter, reaches seventy feet\nout of the ground, and forms into two trees on one stem;\nthe faithful couple of trees having, in reality, but one life,\na kind of Siamese-twins existence and being\" but one. The\nonly tree which approaches the Sequoia in size and grandeur is the Eucalyptus of Australia, which is from eighty\nto ninety feet in circumference.\nAfter we had gratified our curiosity with regard to the\nBig Trees, we returned to Wawona, where we took another Dead Giant, Tuolumne Grove\u00E2\u0080\u0094Diameter,\n30 ft. 8 in. r *\nt)\nm\ni\nis\nIi\nII\nm* The Yosemite Valley.\nstag\"e and a fresh set of horses and started at once for\nthe valley. On this drive we had three changes of horses\nand the scenery was simply grand. The ride was rather\na rough one, but the views to be obtained were well\nworth the cost of the journey. We alighted from our\ncoach at the world-renowned Inspiration Point, which is\na little green plateau, about twenty feet square, on the\nvery verge of the southwest wall of the valley. The view\nfrom this situation, once seen, can never be forgotten. It\nembraces what might be called the whole gamut of the\nnatural and magnificent; you see mountains, rock, perpendicular ledge, towering spires thousands of feet high, snow-\nclad mountains, bald peaks peering into the blue vault of\nheaven, barren domes of gray granite, water-falls, cascades,\nand brooks, green fields, and winding streams,\u00E2\u0080\u0094the whole\nYosemite is here seen at one glance. There was a shelving rock, upon which we were instructed to creep cautiously\nto the edg-e. It is no wonder that the first glance makes\nsome weak persons giddy, especially when they are exhausted by the long ride. The beauty of the scene is\nindescribable in words ; the experience might be compared\nto a person looking over the edge of a grand cyclorama,\nexecuted on a magnificent scale, containing all manner of\nnatural effects, and absolutely perfect in artistic execution.\nThe party were particularly impressed with El Capitan,\nwhich is, indeed, the most prominent attraction to the eye\nwhen coming down the mountain-side into the valley.\nThis mountain, called, in English, the Great Chief of the\nValley, although not so high, by several thousand feet, as\nsome of its giant neighbors, is remarkable on account of if\n66\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nrfr\n1 I\nits isolation, its breadth, its perpendicular sides, its bold,\ndefiant shape, and its prominence as it stands out like a\ngreat rock promontory. It is three thousand three hundred feet in height, and the beholder stands in mute astonishment as he views its massive proportions.\nThe Yosemite Valley was discovered in the spring of\n1851, by a party under the command of Major James\nSavage, who, at the time, was pursuing a number of predatory Indians, who made it their stronghold, considering it\ninaccessible to the whites. The name Yosemite was given\nto it in the belief that it was the Indian term for grizzly\nbear. The valley proper can hardly be called a valley ; it\nis in reality a rift in the earth's surface. It may be described\nas a chasm, varying in width from one mile to ninety feet,\nwith granite walls from one thousand to four thousand\nfeet high. Masses of detached rock stand, in their soli-\ntude, like giant obelisks ; others have been split from top\nto bottom as though by a thunder-bolt. Through the\nwinding's of the valley flows a river, cold as ice and clear\nas crystal, its source apparently being from the clouds\nabove. There is luxuriant vegetation, and the extreme\nof barrenness, the softest carpet-moss and grassy lawns,\nand great ferns and wild roses, alternating with huge scattered rocks, where not even the lichen will cling. The\ntraveller will note how the sunbeams brighten the summits\nof the giant mountains; how the sunshine creeps down\nthe sides of the cold walls, filling the valley with floods of\ngolden glory, made brighter by the contrast of patches of\ndeep shade, for there are some spots here which the sun\nnever reaches\u00E2\u0080\u0094cold, and damp, and always dripping ; and Yosemite Valley, from Artist's Point. r\u00C2\u00BB?\n1\nIfi\nin\n:,\ny The Yosemite Valley.\nthere are gorges with arms wide-open, as if forever to court\nthe orb of day.\nBriefly stated, the chief features of the valley are its\nperpendicular walls, their great height as compared with\nthe width of the valley, and the small amount of debris\nformed at the base of these gigantic mountains of rock.\nThe general opinion is that these great mountains of rock\nhave been gradually rent in twain from dome to base by\nsome volcanic action and the chasm thus made widened\nby further volcanic action to its present width. The\nvalley is one vast flower-garden ; plants, shrubs, and flowers of every hue cover the ground like a carpet; the eye is\ndazzled by the brilliancy of the color, and the air is heavy\nwith the fragrance of a million blossoms. Inhere are trees\nof five and six hundred years' growth, of immense height,\nand yet in comparison with the vast perpendicular clefts\nof rock they look like daisies beside a sycamore of the\nforest. One interesting writer on the subject of the\nYosemite advances the theory that it is possible that the\nspot may have been the Eden of Scripture.\nOn the morning of the 26th we all, with the exception of Dr. McLane, left the hotel on horseback for the\ntrail to the top of Glacier Point. This is considered\none of the most dangerous trails in the valley. At two\nor three places half-way up the mountain the wall on one\nside was actually perpendicular, and the path, not over\ntwo feet wide, was held up by a few small stones, any one\nof which if loosened would roll thousands of feet below. It\nwas a matter of much concern to us that one of the ladies\nbecame very much frightened at this stage of the journey. 68\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nIf she could hold on to her horse, and retain her senses,\nwe knew that all would be well, because the intelligent\nanimal would not go over the cliff. It was utterly impossible for her escort to be of any assistance, as, at this\npoint, there was scarcely sufficient space for a rider to\nstand alongside his horse. Before coming to the dangerous place on the homeward journey, the lady dismounted\nand walked with her companion nearly to the foot of the\nmountain. California mustangs are the horses used in\nthis kind of service. They feed on oat-straw or mountain pasture, and can withstand very hard usage. The\nSpanish saddle is used, with high peaks before and behind ; the stirrups are covered with huge leathers which\nfall five or six inches below the feet, and the legs are\nprotected by broad leathern shields.\nOn the afternoon of the day we made our trip to\nGlacier Point some of the party made a trip to Nevada\nFalls. Dr. McLane and the writer, procured a wagon\nand drove to the Yosemite Falls, and other points\nof interest in the valley. The Yosemite Valley is\nsituated on the Merced River, in the southern portion\nof the county of Mariposa, one hundred and forty\nmiles a little southeast from San Francisco. At times\nthis river flows along in a grave, respectable sort of\nfashion, then leaps over a precipice a hundred feet high,\nor more, then tumbles and foams its way through a devious\ncourse around massive rocks as large as a house. Sometimes it hops, skips, and jumps over its rocky bed apparently in playful mood; sometimes its noise is almost deafening, sometimes soft and low and musical to the ear. It Nevada Falls.\n\u00E2\u0080\u0094 N\n^ iifl\nI\nk,\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0ii\nill\nW.\nm\nil\ni!\nKin\nJ The Yosemite Valley.\nflows on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada, midway\nbetween its eastern and western base, and in the centre of\nthe State, measuring north and south. It is a narrow\nstream enclosed in frowning granite walls, rising with almost unbroken and perpendicular faces to the dizzy\nheight of from three to six thousand feet above the green\nand quiet valley beneath. During the rainy season, and\nwhen the snows melt, streams are formed on the precipices, shaping themselves into cataracts of beauty and\nmagnificence surpassing any thing known in mountain\nscenery. Looking up the valley, from the foot of the\nMariposa trail, El Capitan is seen on the left, and on the\nright, the Cathedral Rocks and a beautiful fall called the\nBridal Veil, which jumps, in sportive glee, a distance of\nnearly one thousand feet into the valley. Long before\nthe water reaches its rocky bed it is transformed into mist,\nand when the wind blows gently it is wafted hither and\nthither, sometimes forming itself into a thin veil, sometimes closing as if to hide its purity. The Cathedral\nRocks on the east are nearly three thousand feet in height,\nand look like isolated church spires of solid granite, with\nrocky sides gently sloping from the base to the pinnacle,\nwith no signs of vegetation on their rugged sides. As\nyet, no human foot has stood on that barren eminence. The Virgin's Tears Creek, directly opposite the\nBridal Veil, is in a deep recess of the rocks near the\nlower corner of El Capitan. Farther up the valley\nis the group of rocks known as the Three Brothers,\nor \" Mountains Playing Leap-frog.\" Looked at from\nbelow, the peculiar shape of these three rocks give 7o\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nthem the appearance, very much, of three frogs in the act\nof going through the performance indicated. The Yosemite Falls\u00E2\u0080\u0094three in one\u00E2\u0080\u0094are farther up the valley. The\nwater dashes with great force over the rocks and plunges\ninto a vast basin of rock beneath. Gathering strength, it\nagain leaps forth, and falling between the North Dome\nand the Three Brothers, takes its final plunge of six hundred feet into the valley. The roar of the falls is heard\nat all times, but in the quiet and darkness of the night it\nseems as if the very earth were being rent asunder. There\nare no falls in the world that equal these in size and magnificence. Niagara is two hundred feet high, but here is\na fall more than ten times as high, and the renowned\nStaubbach of Switzerland is not to be compared with it.\nAt the foot of one of the mountains is Mirror Lake, a pure,\nclear, cold body of water which reflects, as in a looking-\nglass, the towering battlements of rock above.\nTo reach the Vernal and Nevada Falls the traveller\nrides through a valley carpeted with bright-colored, fragrant\nflowers, and is obliged to cross the river Merced. At the\nbase of the Sentinel Dome is the Vernal Fall or Cataract\nof Diamonds. The falling cloud of white foam leaps over\nits rocky bed into a fearful declivity, making a tumultuous\nnoise to which the roar of Niagara is as the sigh of the\nsouth wind. For half a mile below the falls the stream\nlooks like one mass of foam. The Nevada Fall is twice\nthe height of the Vernal, and is the grandest of all the\nfalls in the valley. There is an obstruction on the north\nside of the fall, which causes a division of a considerable\nvolume of water, and makes it tumble by itself in mad Yosemite Falls.\n^ urn i\n,y*.. M1\n'I 1\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\".15 j'\nJ fc\nIf I\nifflw The Yosemite Valley.\n71\ncascades, that come leaping and dancing down the rocks.\nVisitors find no difficulty in going up to the very foot of\nthe fall, where they can gaze at its magnificent power,\nand listen to its stupendous roar, until they are fairly\ndrenched with the spray.\nThe hotel at which we stopped at this point in our\njourney, although well-built and comfortable in some\nrespects, is as badly kept as any place of the kind we had\never seen. This is very unfortunate, because if it were\nproperly managed the natural surroundings are such that\nvisitors would be tempted to remain several days in the\nlocality, instead of getting through their sight-seeing, and\nleaving the place as quickly as possible. When travellers\nfirst began to come to this section, the | hotels,\" as they\nwere grandiloquently called, were nothing more than inns,\nwhere the accommodations were of the rudest possible description.\nWe left the valley at half-past six on the morning of\nApril 27th. The weather was cold, but bright. As we\ncame past Inspiration Point we gave one last look at the\ngrand scenery which had been to us such a source of\npleasure for two days. We drove out the entire distance\nof sixty-four miles, and arrived at Raymond about five\no'clock in the afternoon. Through the courtesy of the stage\ncompany at Wawona, the writer of the party secured a\nbuck-board wagon, and, with his wife, drove all the way\nto Raymond, having one change of horses. We were all\nglad to get back to our car; by this time it seemed to us,\nin a certain sense, like a permanent residence, and so far\nas the cuisine was concerned, in looking back upon our I\n$\n72\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nI\nm\n\\, i\nhotel experiences in the valley, there was certainly \" no\nplace like home,\" for the table at the hotels did not begin\nto compare with our own.\nAt half-past six o'clock the train left for Berenda. It\nwas composed of a dozen freight cars, two Pullman sleepers, our car, and a coach. Half-way to Berenda, at one of\nthe local stations, through the mistake of one of the\nswitch-tenders, a switch was left open. Fortunately, the\nengineer was not running over twenty miles an hour at\nthe time, and was able to prevent a serious accident by the\nimmediate use of the air-brakes. We were all at dinner\nwhen the accident happened, and when the train brought\nup with a tremendous jerk, it almost upset every thing on\nthe table. On going out it was discovered that the engine\nhad run on a siding directly into a lot of freight cars,\nsending some of them on to the main track ahead, knocking\nothers off their trucks, and altogether making a pretty bad\nwreck. It took us over half an hour to clear the main\nline of debris, before our journey could be resumed.\nWhile driving out from the valley, we had very cool\nand comfortable weather. On our arrival at Raymond we\nwere surprised to learn that the people in that vicinity had\nbeen suffering from the heat. The evidence of the torrid\nstate of the atmosphere was also to be seen on our car, the\npaint upon which had peeled off in many places, while the\ninside sash on the sunny side had been blistered by the\nheat, taking the varnish completely off.\nWhile going into, and coming out of the valley, we\nsaw large quantities of quail, and our driver informed us\nthat during the season the hunting is very good. We\nmin\nm\nw 1 Glacier Point, (3,200 feet,) Yosemite\nValley. \u00E2\u0096\u00A0\u00C2\u00AB*^~ \u00E2\u0080\u0094\u00E2\u0080\u0094 h\nm \"*>\nII\nr Ii The Yosemite Valley.\nalso passed a flume, of which an illustration is given\nherewith. This flume is built of plank and carries logs\nand boards to a distance of seventy miles. It is about\ntwo feet high, two feet wide, and eight inches deep, with\nflaring sides, and the water runs through it at quite a rapid\nrate. When it crosses ravines or winds around the mountain-side, it is supported on trestle-work. The lumber is\nsawed some distance up in the mountains, bound together\nin bundles of seven or eight planks, then let into the\nflume, and floated down stream to the railroad station.\nThe part of the flume shown in the picture carries lumber\ndown to Madera, a station on the Southern Pacific Railroad, one hundred and eighty-five miles from San Fran\ncisco.\nIO CHAPTER XI.\nSAN FRANCISCO.\nEARLY on the morning of April 28th we left Berenda\non the express, and arrived at Oakland about nine\no'clock. We found an engine waiting for us,\nwhich immediately took our car and ran us special to Monterey, where we arrived about three in the afternoon. The\nchildren were all well, and overjoyed to see us, and listened\nwith unfeigned pleasure to the stories we had to tell them\nof the wonders we had seen. Our return was made pleas-\nanter from the fact that we found three mail-bags awaiting\nus, and it took us several hours to reply to the generous\nbatch of correspondence we found on our hands.\nOn the following morning, Monday, we resumed our\nold habit and started immediately for the swimming-bath.\nIn the afternoon, the writer engaged a buggy, and drove\nout to a ranch twenty-eight miles from Monterey. California ranches often consist of thousands of acres, and are\nconducted on a very large scale. The word \" ranch \" has\ncome down from the early Spanish occupancy, and is\nfound, in some form or other, all over the State; farmhands are called \"ranchmen,\" and a man is \"ranching-\"\no\n74 San Francisco.\nhorses when he takes them to pasture. We will take one\nranch of sixteen thousand acres as a specimen. It extends\nabout four miles along a river, and there is not a field\nthrough which there does not run a living stream : these\nstreams come down from the mountains. A flouring mill\nof great capacity is on one part of the ranch, and its\nwheels are kept running by the water from one of these\nstreams. Between three and four thousand acres are\nsown with wheat and barley, and, by aid of machinery,\ntwelve hundred bushels of wheat can be made ready for\nthe mill in one day. The whole process of threshing,\ncleaning, etc., is gone through with in the field, and the\ngrain at once put into sacks. Fifty horses or mules and\nabout twenty men are employed from November until\nMarch, in making the ground ready, using the latest and\nmost approved agricultural machinery. The laborers live\non the place in a house at a little distance from that of\ntheir employer. Wild oats grow of their own accord, and\nsix hundred head of cattle live on parts of the ranch not\nunder cultivation. Then there are twelve hundred hog's,\nand fourteen thousand sheep, the latter having a shepherd\nfor each two thousand of their number.\nWe bade adieu to Monterey on the morning of the\nist of May, taking our special train. At Menlo Park we\nwere met by the boys\u00E2\u0080\u0094Louis, Frank, and George Bird\u00E2\u0080\u0094\nwho had remained at San Francisco in order to see the\ntown, under the guidance of the Pinkerton detective, who,\nbeing an old Californian, was specially qualified to act as\na guide. Louis brought some beautiful roses that he had\nprocured for us in San Francisco, and a number of ms\n76\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nflowers of the same species were also handed us by a resident of Menlo Park, after our arrival.\nAfter lunch we took carriages and rode out to Governor Stanford's stock farm. Through some misunderstanding, every one connected with the place, including\nMr. Marvin, the manager, was absent. But after a little\ntrouble we succeeded in getting a groom to show us some\nof the horses. We saw % Electioneer,\" and some of the\nstallions, together with the celebrated yearling \" Electric\nBells,\" owned by Miller and Sibley, and for which they\npaid in December, 1888, thirteen thousand five hundred\ndollars. He is a beauty, and very well-developed, and\nthe groom assured us that his racing future was full of\npromise.\nAfter visiting the stables, we drove over to the University buildings which Governor Stanford is erecting to\nthe memory of his son. The main building is after the\nSpanish style of architecture, only one story high, and\nwith tiled roof. It is in the form of a square, with a continuous arcade or colonnade running around it inside.\nThe interior square is connected with the outside by four\nlarge arches under each side of the building. These\nstructures occupy about four acres of ground, and when\nwe were there a large body of men were at work on the\npremises, while others were engaged in grading and preparing the surrounding grounds.\nMenlo Park is beautifully situated at the foot of a\nmountain, the last of the sea-coast range. It is thickly\nwooded, and looked more like a park than any place of\nthe kind we had ever seen. The roads are kept in superb San Francisco.\ncondition, and the profusion of flowers we beheld was\nsomething wonderful. We drove through Governor Stanford's property, and saw his house and grounds; also the\nlarge vineyard connected with it. Near his place, on\nthe site where he intended to build a house, Governor\nStanford has erected a mausoleum to the memory of his\nson. After our drive we returned to the car and left\nat once for San Francisco, Subsequently we had the\npleasure of meeting the Governor; also Mr. C. P. Huntington, who was about starting for New York. The\nGovernor talked freely about horse-raising, and one\ncould see that he was thoroughly enthusiastic on the\nsubject.\nYou cannot walk about the City of the Golden Gate\nwithout thinking of its wonderful growth and recalling its\nearly history. Only forty years ago men were living on\nthis very spot, for the most part in tents and shanties.\nSome adventurers formed part of the population, but they\nwere soon exterminated. Although there was an utter\nabsence of the refining- influence of women, gfood women\nwere held in profound respect. Life and property were\nsecure though locks and bars were unknown, and men\ntrusted their money to people who a few hours before had\nbeen strangers to them. There was not a school, or\na Protestant church, but men read their Bibles in their\nhomes. The discovery of gold changed this condition of\naffairs, and brought to the locality the scum of the whole\nworld\u00E2\u0080\u0094convicts from Australia; the vagabonds of large\nEuropean cities ; the toughs from' New York, and | plug-\nuglies I from Philadelphia ; desperadoes from Central and m\n78\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nSouth America ; outcasts from the South Sea Islands, and\npariahs from all over the world. All kinds of crimes were\ncommon, and no man's life or property were safe. Then\ncame the \" Vigilance Committee,\" and the reign of swift\njustice, and finally San Francisco became one of the most\nquiet, law-abiding, well-governed cities in the world. San\nFrancisco is famed for its restaurants. It is said they number about four hundred, and that forty thousand people daily\ntake their meals at them. They are of all grades and prices\n\u00E2\u0080\u0094from the I Poodle Dog,\" where a dinner costs from two\nand a half to twenty dollars, down to the Miner's Restaurant, where it costs only forty cents. There are also\na large number of French, German, and Italian restaurants\nwhere one may get a good breakfast for half a dollar,\na lunch for twenty-five cents, and a dinner, a la carte,\nincluding claret, for seventy-five cents. A tenderloin\nsteak (and the beef is said to be of an excellent quality),\npotatoes, bread and butter, and a cup of coffee, will cost\nfifty cents; a lamb chop, potatoes, bread and butter, and\ncoffee, twenty-five cents; salmon, bread and butter, and\ncoffee, twenty-five cents; an omelet, or eggs boiled, fried,\nor scrambled, with coffee, and bread and butter, thirty-five\ncents. A grade lower down, but in places which seem to\nbe clean and respectable, one gets three dishes for twenty-\nfive cents, and may obtain quite a decent meal for from\ntwenty to thirty cents. The European habit of living in\nlodgings and taking meals at restaurants, is very much in\nvogue in San Francisco. Among the hotels is one which\nmay be called a California peculiarity. It is what would\nbe called a second- or third-class hotel, but serves excellent San Francisco.\nmeals and lodgings at fifty cents each; this place grew\npopular under the patronage of the miners, who, when\nthey come into town from their distant camps and cabins,\ninsist on having good fare though they are rather indifferent to the manner in which it is furnished. This hotel has\na special office for receiving clothes to be washed and\nmended, a well-chosen popular library with five thousand\nvolumes, full files of newspapers and magazines, an extensive and valuable cabinet of minerals, and a beautiful\ncollection of stuffed birds, all for the accommodation and\nentertainment of its guests. Its reading-room is generally\nwell-filled with plain, rough-looking men, each with book\nor newspaper in hand. The rule of the establishment is\nfor every guest to buy a supply of tickets for meals and\nlodgings on his arrival, at the uniform rate of fifty cents\neach, and the proprietor redeems, with cash, what have not\nbeen used up when the customer leaves.\nOne feature of San Francisco life is its bar-rooms;\nmany of which are fitted up in a style of almost Oriental\ngrandeur. They are furnished with immense mirrors,\nreaching from floor to ceiling; carpets of the finest\ntexture and the most exquisite patterns; luxurious\nlounges, sofas, and arm-chairs ; massive tables covered\nwith papers and periodicals, while the walls are adorned\nwith beautiful and expensive paintings. Some years ago\na picture which had hung on the walls in one of these\ndrinking-places was sold for twelve thousand five hundred\ndollars. Some of the keepers of these places are said to\nbe men of considerable education and culture. One of\nthem, some years ago, was an art critic for a leading local Ifff(FT' \u00C2\u00A5\n80\nCalifornia and Alaska,\nil lii \\nnewspaper, and wrote a readable book of San Francisco\nreminiscences. There are two classes of these saloons\nwhich furnish a mid-day repast far too pretentious to be\ncalled a \" free lunch.\" In the first a man gets a drink and\na meal ; in the second, a drink and a meal of inferior\nquality. He pays for the drink (twenty-five or fifteen\ncents, according to the grade of the place) and gets his\nmeal for nothing. This consists, in the better class of\nestablishments, of soup, boiled salmon, roast beef of excellent quality, bread and butter, potatoes, tomatoes, crackers\nand cheese. On the subject of eating, it may be said that\nthe San Francisco markets supply almost every conceivable\nwant of hungry humanity. The products of every clime\nare brought to the city. You can enjoy such luxuries as\ngreen peas, fresh tomatoes, celery, and cauliflower every\nday in the year, and even strawberries may be a perennial\ndelight. Here, for months in succession, are grapes of\nmany varieties, at from two to fifteen cents a pound ; here\nare apples from Northern California and Oregon, pears,\nfigs, peaches, apricots, nectarines, plums, and blackberries\nfrom the neighboring valleys, and oranges, lemons, limes,\nand bananas from the southern counties, all in fullest perfection of form and ripeness, and at moderate prices by\nthe pound\u00E2\u0080\u0094for fruits and vegetables are uniformly sold\nby weight. Salmon is plentiful throughout the year at ten\nto twenty cents a pound, with smelts, soles, herrings, cod,\nbass, shrimps\u00E2\u0080\u0094in fact, every treasure of the sea, while the\nvariety of game is unequalled.\nThe Eastern visitor is struck with the gfood manage-\nment of the Wells & Fargo Express Company, which has San Francisco.\nii\nbeen a great convenience in the far western part of the\ncountry. It extends to every village, almost to every mining camp, in the Pacific States and Territories. It is said\nthat the first three establishments set up in a new mining\ntown are a restaurant, a billiard-saloon, and a Wells &\nFargo office; these three enterprises represent the first\nstao-e of civilization. In the early days the company carried\nmore letters on the Pacific coast than the government did,\nfor, though it first paid the government postage on every\none, and then added its own charges, the certainty and\npromptness of its carriage and delivery being ahead of\nthe post-office department, made the agency very much in\nfavor with the public. It has carried as many as three\nmillions of letters in the course of a year. It does errands\nof every sort, and to every place; it exchanges gold and\ngreenbacks ; it buys and sells gold and silver in the rough;\nit owns all the principal stage lines of the interior ; and it\nbrings to market all the productions of the gold and silver\nmines.\nOn the morning of May 3d, by invitation of General\nMiles, commanding the Department of the Pacific, who\nhad called upon us on the preceding afternoon, and kindly\nextended to us the use of the government steamer for a\nsail in the harbor, we went to the Mission Street wharf\nand boarded the vessel McDowell. We sailed out through\nthe Golden Gate, visited the fortress and the Union Iron-\nWorks, where they were building the San Francisco ; we\nsaw the Charleston, which had just been completed, and\nwas lying in a dock near by. About twenty-three miles\nfrom the Golden Gate are the Farallon Islands. They &\nIP\nk\n82\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nare six rugged islets, and the meaning of the word Faral-\nlon, which is Spanish, is a small pointed islet in the sea.\nThese islands are seldom visited-by travellers or pleasure-\nseekers. On one of them is a government light-house, a\nbrick tower seventeen feet high, surmounted by a lantern\nand illuminating apparatus. There is also a fog-whistle,\nwhich is a huge trumpet, six inches in diameter at its\nsmaller end, and which is blown by the rush of air through\na cave or passage connecting with the ocean. One of the\nnumerous caves worn into the rocks by the surf had a\nhole at the top, through which the incoming breakers violently expelled the air they carried before them. This\ncave has been utilized. The mouth-piece of the trumpet\nor fog-whistle is fixed against the aperture in the rock,\nand the breaker, as it dashes in, blows the fog-whistle,\nwhich can be heard at a distance of seven or eight miles.\nThe light-house keepers and their families on the only\ninhabited island pass a very lonely life. Their house,\nwhich is built under the shelter of the rocks, seems to be\nopen to perpetual storm ; the sound of the ocean's roar\nis never absent day or night; wild birds scream, sea-\nlions howl, and every now and then there are dreadful\nstorms to make the din more hideous. During the winter\nseason the supply vessel is unable, sometimes, to make a\nlanding for weeks at a time. The islands are inhabited by\nmultitudes of sea-lions, and vast numbers of birds and\nrabbits. The latter animals are descendants from a few\npairs brought to the islands, many years ago, by a speculator who intended to make a rabbit warren for the supply\nof the San Francisco market. The animals increase very San Francisco.\nrapidly, so much so that sometimes hundreds of them\nperish of starvation and general weakness. The sea-lions\ncongregate bv thousands upon the cliffs', many of them\no o *\nbigger than an ox. They lie in the sun upon the bare and\noo\nwarm rocks, or, climbing to high summits, fall asleep and\nfinally plunge into the ocean below. They are sometimes\ncaught by the use of the lasso, which has to be held by\nhalf a dozen men, or quickly fastened to a projecting rock,\nor the seal would surely get away.\nThe wild birds which breed on these desolate islands\nare gulls, murres, shags, and sea-parrots, the last a kind of\npenguin. For many years a company has gathered from\nthese islands the eggs of the murre, the season lasting\nfrom the middle of May until the last of July. About\ntwenty men are employed in this work, living on the\nisland during the time in rude shanties near the usual\nlanding-place. The eggs are laid in the most inaccessible\nplaces, and the eggers are obliged to climb to points which\na goat would hesitate about approaching. The egger cannot carry a basket, but puts the eggs into his shirt-bosom,\nand when he has collected a sufficient number he takes\nthem down the cliff to some place of deposit, where they\ncan be put in baskets, and subsequently taken to the regular receiving-house near the shore. These eggs are largelv\nused in San Francisco by the restaurants and by bakers for\nomelets, cakes, and custards. In the early days of California, when provisions were high-priced, the egg gatherers\nwere very lucky. Once, in 1853, a boat absent but three\ndays brought in one thousand dozen, and sold the whole\ncargo at a dollar a dozen ; and in one season thirty thou- California and Alaska.\nsand dozen were gathered, and brought an average of but\nlittle less than this price.\nOn our return we reached San Francisco about half-\npast twelve, going to the Palace Hotel for lunch; then\nwent to Oakland with Mrs. Webb, where the train had\nbeen taken on a transport. We remained there until\nevening, taking on a large supply of groceries, the first\nsince we had left New York. Our cars were put on the\nend of a regular train, this being the first time that we\ndid not run special. The transport Solano, that took us\nacross to Sacramento, is capable of holding fifty-two freight\ncars and four engines. It is four hundred and fifty feet\nlong, sixty-four feet wide, and has four tracks. This is\nprobably the widest vessel afloat; her extreme width over\nguards is one hundred and sixteen feet, and she has four\npaddle-wheels, each thirty feet in diameter.\nMr. Towne came over to see us off, and we found it\ndifficult to express our thanks and gratitude for the kind\nand considerate manner in which he and his people had\ntreated us since we had been on their line. It would be\na most difficult task for us to find a way to repay this\ngentleman for the courteous, thoughtful, and generous\ntreatment we had received at his hands.\n;wgf* feSfebJ^\n'm\nSy^^^^P^^^N^g^^\nCHAPTER XII.\nSAN FRANCISCO : THE CHINESE QUARTER.\nTHE evening of Wednesday the first of May was\nspent by the gentlemen of the party in a visit to\nthe famous Chinese quarter of San Francisco.\nWe were accompanied by our detective, and on this\noccasion saw more dirt, filth, and degradation than we\nimagined could exist in any city in the United States.\nThe Chinese quarter of San Francisco lies principally\nin Dupont and Jackson streets, and within a stone's throw\nof the fashionable thoroughfare around Kearney Street,\nwhich was bright and crowded on the night we made our\nO O\nexcursion, its gay shops all ablaze with lights. Individually the Chinaman may be clean ; collectively he is just the\nopposite. The Chinese cook keeps his coppers and pans\nclean and bright, washes his hands frequently while pursuing his vocation, but go to his home and you will find\nhim living in a state of squalor and dH*t which is truly\nshocking. Fifteen or twenty Chinamen will live, sleep,\nand cook in a hovel or cellar twelve feet square, having\nonly a door for the purpose of admitting light and air.\nWhen the occupants are not cooking they are lying in 7\nm&\n86\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nI\nif\nill\nIt\ntheir rude bunks on the side of the apartment, either\nsleeping or smoking opium. The boarding-houses established by the Chinese Companies soon become grimy and\ndirt-encrusted from cellar to roof. The Chinamen will\nlive under the sidewalks, under staircases, in cramped\nbunks, and on rickety platforms, and when a building has\nonce been occupied by Chinese, it must always remain a\npest-hole or be torn down.\nThe Chinese seem to have a particular affinity for\nsubterranean dwellings. You go down a ladder-like\nstaircase into a cellar, where you might expect to find coal\nor barrels stowed away, and, lo and behold, you are standing in a barber-shop. You pass farther along and find yourself in an underground pawnbroker's, the apartment very\nclose and stuffy, and dimly lit by a feeble flaring lamp.\nThe shop is crammed with every possible object on which\na dollar can be raised. In one corner there is a heap of\nold clothes ; there are clocks, and an assortment of pistols\nand knives of all sorts, from the pocket penknife to a pair\nof murderous-looking blades which seem especially adapted\nfor literally slicing a man to pieces.\nBeyond this pawnbroker's shop you will find an apartment dark, unventilated, and very much like the steerage\ncabin of an emigrant steamer. There are wooden shelves,\nor bunks, on the sides of the wall, screened by ragged\ncurtains. In each bunk there is a Chinaman, who is\nsmoking his pipe of opium. He will take a pinch of the\ndark, jelly-like substance on a wire, melt it over a little\nlamp with which he is provided, then smear it over the\naperture in the pipe, and draw it with great, deep breaths\nH San Francisco.\ninto his lungs. Many Chinamen literally live in these\ndens. They pay so much rent for their bunk, in which\nthey keep their few worldly possessions, and do their\nsimple cooking in a little court outside of the building.\nOthers work part of the day, and stay at the opium den\nat night. The opium pipe consists of a straight or slightly\ncurved stem about eighteen inches long, with a bowl\nthree inches round, in the centre of which is a small\ncircular hole. This leads to a smaller reservoir in the\ncentre of the bowl, and a channel runs from this to the\nend of the pipe, which the smoker places in his mouth.\nThe great aim of Mongolian existence, judging from\nwhat we saw, seems to be to get the largest number of\nhuman beings into the least possible space. The Chinese\nseem to herd together, to go in droves, and it would seem\nalmost impossible that there should be a Chinese hermit.\nIn this quarter of the town there are long, narrow, black\nalleys, so black that one has to grope his way, so narrow\nthat the party must walk in single file, and so long that\nwhen you get to the end of them it seems as if you were\nJ O J\nmiles away from the Golden City. You go through room\nafter room, burrow your way along- narrow passages,\nJ J O J7 O '\nunder low rafters, and over slippery and shaky floors.\nYou see nothing but dirt and rags and squalor, and the\nsickly odor of opium permeates every apartment.\nThere are about ten heathen temples, or Joss-houses,\nin San Francisco, and some of them are fitted up with\nconsiderable splendor. The most noted was fitted up by\na distinguished Chinese physician, a resident of the city.\nThe temples are usually in alleys, the best one being in ni\n\u00C2\u00BB: If if 1/\n1\n(II Northern California.\nor difficulty, by stout resolute men. The extreme exhaustion realized in ascending mountains like Blanc or the Matterhorn is not experienced; nor is the trial so dangerous,\nby reason of huge fissures and icy chasms ; the main difficulty arises from the rarefied condition of the air, to which\nthe system must adapt itself rather suddenly for comfort.\nThe ascent is frequently made by parties who stop at Sisson and take two days for the trip, going on horseback to\nSisson Camp, and the next morning on foot to the summit. Sisson Camp is just on the edge of the timber line.\nParties go there, and remain for weeks at a time, making\nhunting excursions into the woods and remaining away\nfor three or four days. The hunting in this vicinity is\nsaid to equal any that can be found on the coast from\nPortland to San Francisco, and the fishing is without a\nparallel. This region is, in fact, a hunter's paradise:\ngrizzly, black, and cinnamon bears are found without\nnumber; elk and mountain sheep tempt the skill of the\nventuresome sportsman ; antelope are sometimes seen on\nthe foot-hills ; while deer of all varieties, especially the mule\nand black-tail, are in such abundance as scarcely to be\nsought after.\nThe view of the mountain from Shasta Plains is very\ngrand. With no intervening mountains tq obstruct the\nprospect, the base is seen resting among dense evergreen\nforests ; higher up, it is girdled with hardy plants and\nshrubs to the region of frosts, and thence the sheeting\nsnow. During some seasons the great monarch seems to\nretire to gloomy solitudes and sits a storm king upon the\nclouds, invisible to mortal eye. 96\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nA well-known writer, Clarence King, who made the\nascent of Shasta, thus relates one of his experiences :\n\" From a point about midway across where I had climbed\nand rested upon the brink of an ice-cliff, the glacier below\nme breaking off into its wild pile of cascade blocks and\nserac, I looked down over all the lower flow, broken with\nbillowy upheavals, and bright with bristling spires of sunlit ice. Upon the right rose the great cone of Shasta,\nformed of chocolate-colored lavas, its sky-line a single\ncurved sweep of snow cut sharply against a deep-blue sky.\nTo the left, the precipices of the lesser cone rose to the\naltitude of twelve thousand feet, their surfaces half-jagged\nledges of lava, and half irregular sheets of ice. From my\nfeet the glacier sank rapidly between volcanic walls, and\nthe shadow of the lesser cone fell in a dark band across\nthe brilliantly lighted surface. Looking down its course,\nmy eye ranged over sunny and shadowed zones of ice, over\nthe gray-boulder region of the terminal moraine; still\nlower, along the former track of ancient and grander\nglaciers, and down upon undulating pine-clad foot-hills\ndescending in green steps, and reaching out like promontories into the sea of plain which lay outspread nine\nthousand feet below, basking in the half-tropical sunshine,\nits checkered green fields and orchards ripening their\nwheat and figfs.\"\nIn the forests around Mount Shasta are found the\nmaple, evergreen oak, and several varieties of pine, including the spruce, the cedar, and the fir. Chief among them\nall for symmetry and perfection of figure is the majestic\nsugar-pine, nearly equalling the red-wood in size, and Northern California.\nexcelled by none as a beautiful forest-tree. The Sacramento River rises far up on the southwestern slope of\nthe mountain, far above vegetation and the timber line,\nand almost amid eternal snow. The McCloud, its principal tributary, rises on the eastern slope.\nAfter leaving Sisson, we travelled through the beautiful\nShasta Valley, later in the day ascending the Siskiyou\nMountains just before crossing into Oregon. This part of\nour journey was exceedingly interesting. At the foot of\nthe grade we attached to our train of four cars two large\nconsolidated engines. In the distance we could see the\nroad winding up the mountain. At the top of the ascent,\nten miles before we came to it, we saw the entrance to a\ntunnel which is four thousand one hundred and sixty feet\nin length, and which our train subsequently passed through.\nThe grade up the mountain was nearly two hundred feet\nto the mile. After passing through the tunnel we came\nto Siskiyou, the highest point on the road. The view\nfrom this point was grand in the extreme. Looking down\ninto the valley below we could easily distinguish the railroad wending its way northward, and it seemed incredible\nto us that our train would also soon be in the same\nposition. To the right and east the Cascade Mountain,\nextending fully four hundred miles to the north, loomed\nup into view. The grade on the north side of the Siskiyou Mountains we found more tortuous and much steeper\nthan on the south side, and at certain places our train had\nto go very slowly, lest our cars, being unusually long,\nshould strike the sides of the mountain. In making- our\nO\ndescent we were obliged to cross many high trestles, to go\n13 mm\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nthrough three tunnels, and the road so twisted and turned\nthat we could scarcely have told the points of the compass, much less the locality in which we were, if we had\nnot been accompanied by the superintendent of the\ndivision, who helped us to a knowledge of our surroundings. When we reached the valley the scenery was of a\nvery different character. We had rapidly been taken\naway from every thing that pertained to a tropical climate,\nand the rich and profuse vegetation for which California\nis famous. The region through which we were travelling\nreminded us very much of what we were accustomed to\nsee in the East, more especially the pastoral life peculiar\nto the New England States. It was noted, too, that even\nthe trees in this part of the country were similar to those\nto be found around our country home at Shelburne, Vermont, and very different from the varieties we had met\nwith on the California slope.\nAshland is the terminus of the Southern Pacific road;\nit is four hundred and thirty-one miles from San Francisco.\nAt this point we changed engines, and travelled over the\nOregon and California Railroad, a line leased by the\nSouthern Pacific. During the afternoon we stopped in\nthe Shasta Valley and tried our luck at fishing in a pretty\nstream which, as we crossed it, looked as though it would\ngive us some sport. The train was sent on about five\nmiles ahead to a siding, with instructions to return for us\nin about two hours. Our party got out of the cars and\nfished, but succeeded in capturing only a few of the finny\ntribe. Shortly after breakfast on this particular morning\nthe following telegram was delivered to us ; it will serve Northern California\nto indicate, in some small degree at least, the generous\nand thoughtful treatment we received at the hands of the\nSouthern Pacific Railroad Company:\n\" Dr. W. S. Webb and party :\n\"Good-morning. I hope you are enjoying yourselves thoroughly.\nDo not fail to remember that I am at the other end of the wire, and\ncall upon me for any thing you want.\n\"A. Towne.\"\nThe northern part of California is, in many respects,\none of the most interesting portions of the State; it is\nparticularly adapted to sheep-grazing, and it is said that\nthere are not a few young men who have migrated to this\npart of the State, started with a few sheep, and are now\nwealthy. Although the largest flocks of sheep are in the\nsouthern part of the State, the best quality of wool comes\nfrom the north. Klamath, Humboldt, Trinity, Tehama,\nMendocino, and Yuba counties, where no sheep formerly\nranged, now send the best wool. A few years ago all the\nwool was sent by sailing vessels round Cape Horn to\nNew York and England. When the Pacific Mail Steam-\nship Company increased their carrying facilities, at the\nsame time reducing their rates of freight, it was sent by\nway of the Isthmus of Panama. At the present time\nnearly all the wool goes by the Central Pacific Railroad.\nSome enterprising sheep-grazers in the Sacramento\nValley own a range in the foot-hills, and another on the\nbottom lands. During the summer the sheep are kept in\nthe bottoms, which are then dry, and full of rich grasses;\nin the fall and winter they are taken to the uplands, and\nthere they lamb and are shorn. Sheep are sometimes IOO\nCalifornia and Alaska.\ndriven into the mountains, where they have green grass\nall summer, and it is not unusual to see groups of the animals crossing the Sacramento without a driver, and in the\nfall returning, of their own motion, each to its respective\nowner. sS^Ssi\nCHAPTER XIV.\nMONTANA\nWE arrived at Portland, Oregon, on the morning\nof Sunday, May 5th. Mr. Boothby, of the\nPullman Car Company, met us on our arrival, and did every thing in his power to make our stay\npleasant and comfortable. We attended the Episcopal\nChurch in the morning, and in the afternoon drove over\nthe town and through the park. Portland is the largest\ntown of Oregon, and lies on the banks of the Willamette.\nWe noticed that Sunday was observed with much greater\nstrictness than in most towns on the Pacific coast. Large\ntrees are to be found on every hand, and the few farms\nthat are to be seen must have been cleared at very great\nexpense. Portland was one of the first cities to be settled\non the northern slope of the Pacific coast, but it is only\nwithin the last few years that it has grown much in population ; most of the immigration has been towards Tacoma,\nSeattle, and other towns farther north. The valley of the\nWillamette is a most fertile region, and very attractive in\nits natural curiosities. Many remarkable instances are\nto be found here of those eccentric mountain formations\nknown as beetlers\u00E2\u0080\u0094huge conical, isolated hills. idm\n\n\n11\nIf\nto (\nw\nilk\n102\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nWe arrived at Tacoma about midnight on the 5th, and\nwere placed on a side-track. It is evidently a new and\ncertainly not a very inviting-looking city. When we were\nthere the streets were not paved, but were covered hub-\ndeep with mud. The sidewalks had a very rough and\ncrude appearance, and the whole settlement looked like a\nfrontier town. Notwithstanding all this, however, there\nhad been such a boom in real estate that the price of a\ntwenty-five-foot lot with a very ordinary building on it\nwas from twenty-five to thirty thousand dollars. Whittier\nmay have had such Western towns in view when he wrote :\nI hear the tread of pioneers,\nOf nations yet to be\u00E2\u0080\u0094\nThe first low wash of waves\nWhere soon shall roll a human sea.\nBehind the squaw's light birch canoe\nThe steamer smokes and raves,\nAnd city lots are staked for sale\nAbove old Indian graves.\nThe weather was cold and rainy when we arrived here,\nand our spirits were at a very low ebb. A call was made\nupon the General Superintendent of the Pacific division of\nthe Northern Pacific Railroad, who was found to be quite-\nagreeable though very busy, and unable to leave his office.\nHe at once made arrangements to have us leave for the\nEast over his road as soon as we could get some informa-\ntion we wanted in regard to the fishing- along- the line.\no OO\nWe did not go to Seattle, as it would have consumed\nanother day.\nWe stopped at the foot of the Cascade Range and\nfished for two hours without success. The Superintendent\nk Mount Hood From Lost Lake mm 11\n\u00C2\u00A5 Montana\nof this division came down to meet us, and with two consolidation engines, each having ten drivers, took us over\nthe range ; the grade, at this point, being one hundred and\nseventy-four feet to the mile. This range of mountains\nincludes some of the loftiest peaks in the United States,\namong which are Mount Hood, Mount Jefferson, and\nMount Pitt. The first of this grand trio has a volcanic\ncrest fourteen thousand feet above the level of the sea;\non its northern side it is nearly vertical for seven thousand\nfeet; there the snows of winter accumulate till they reach\nthe very summit, but when the summer thaw commences\nall this vast body of snow becomes disintegrated at once,\nand, in a sweeping avalanche, buries itself in the deep\nfurrows at its base and leaves the precipice bare.\nWe arrived at Spokane Falls early on the morning of\nMay 7th. Dr. Merriam, to whom I had telegraphed from\nTacoma, met us on our arrival, and gave us some information that we had requested about the fishing. Spokane\nFalls is a very prosperous town, and the streets are well\nlaid out and planned for a city of some thirty or forty\nthousand inhabitants, although the population at present\nis less than half the first estimate mentioned. This is the\ndistributing place for the mines, and the great success\nwhich is just now attending those enterprises is likely to\nmaterially raise the price of real estate.\nAt eleven o'clock, on this particular morning, we went\nto Hope, on Lake Pend d'Oreille. This is a new station\nand a divisional point of the Northern Pacific ; as the\nrailroad moved its round-houses here owing- to the water\ngiving out at the former terminus. We got a boat from\n\u00E2\u0080\u0094 f If\nM\nii/\nyl|\n=[HBv\n104 California and Alaska.\nthe Northern Pacific Railroad, and Mrs. Webb, Dr.\nMcLane, and the writer took a sail on the lake ; the other\nmembers of the party went fishing in small boats and had\nvery good luck, catching trout near the shore weighing\nfrom two to three pounds. This lake is beautifully encircled by mountains, and is sixty miles long; the water\nis from five hundred to eight hundred feet deep. There\nare no towns near it, and it is as wild a place as the traveller will seldom see. On the northern bank of the lake\nthere is a very small place called Chloride, where the\nminers stop on their way to the Chloride Silver Mines.\nBefore we left this locality for Helena, which we did the\nnext evening at half-past six, the boys went out fishing\nagain and returned with a very good catch.\nWe arrived at Helena on the morning of May 9th.\nMr. Shelby, the General Manager of the Montana Central (which is a part of the Manitoba system), met us on\nour arrival and took us over his road to Butte, the largest\nj O\nmining city in the world, where the celebrated Anaconda\nSilver Mines are located. After lunch we took carriages\no\nand drove around the city, which struck us as being a\nvery strange town. Half of the population worked in the\nmines during the day, and the other half during the night.\nThe liveliest hours of the day were twelve o'clock noon,\nand at midnight, when the day gangs came up to be relieved by the night workers.\nThe primitive manner of gathering gold in the Montana mines is rude and incomplete enough. In all the\ngulches, at depths varying from six to fifty feet, is a bedrock of the same general conformation as the surface. Usually this is granite 1 but sometimes before reaching the\nprimitive rock two or three strata of pipe-clay\u00E2\u0080\u0094the later\nbeds of the stream, upon which frequently lies a deposit\nof gold\u00E2\u0080\u0094are passed. Upon the bed-rock is a deposit\nfrom three to four feet in depth, of gravel and boulders,\nin which the gold is hidden. This is called by the miner\nO S\n\"pay-dirt,\" and to remove it to the surface and wash it\nis the end of mining. It is an expensive and laborious\nprocess indeed. The water has first to be controlled ;\nand in mines of not too great depth this is done by a\ndrain ditch along the bed-rock, commenced many claims\nbelow. In this all the claim-holders are interested, and\nall contribute their quota of the labor and expense of digging it. The district laws permit every person to run\nsuch a drain through all the claims below his own, and\nforce every man to contribute alike towards its construction, on pain of not being allowed to use the water, even\nthoug\"h it flows through his own land. The water con-\ntrolled, the rest is mere physical labor, which only bones\nand sinews of iron can endure. In the shallow diggings\nthe superincumbent earth above the pay-dirt is removed,\nand the process is called \"stripping.\" In deep diggings a\nshaft is sunk to the bed-rock, and tunnels are run in every\ndirection, and this is called | drifting.\" The roof is supported by strong piles, but these supports too frequently\ngive way, and hurry the poor miners to untimely deaths.\nThe pay-dirt, in whichever way obtained, is then shovelled into the sluice-boxes\u00E2\u0080\u0094a series of long troughs so\no o\nmade as to prevent the gold from washing past, or the\ndirt from settling to the bottom.\nThe gold being heavier io6 California and Alaska.\nsinks to the bottom and is caught by cross-bars called\n\" riffles \" ; in the lower boxes is frequently placed quicks\nsilver, with which the lighter particles amalgamate. During the washings the large stones and boulders are removed by a fork. The heavy sand and iron are separated\nby a careful washing by hand and by the magnet.\nIn the new and thinly settled countries of the West\nmany ideas have always been expressed by figures drawn\nfrom the pursuits of the people. Much of the language\nof the Indians is expressed by signs. So, with miners,\ntheir conversation is full of expressions peculiar to their\nvocation. The new settler is called a | pilgrim \" or a \" tender-foot.\" The term \u00C2\u00A7 adobe,\" the sun-dried brick, applied\nto a man, signifies vealiness and verdancy. A \" corral \"\nis an enclosure into which herds are gathered ; hence a\nperson who has every thing arranged to his satisfaction\nannounces that he has every thing \" corralled.\" A man\nfortunate in any business has | struck the pay-dirt\" ; unfortunate, has \"reached the bed-rock.\" Every thing\nviewed in the aggregate, as a train, a family, or a town, is\nan I outfit.\" A miner in criticising a certain lawyer in his\nneighborhood\u00E2\u0080\u0094\" a great blower,\" as he would be called in\nthe East\u00E2\u0080\u0094said expressively: \" When you come to pan\nhim out, you don't find color.\"\nThe names of the gulches near Helena are very suggestive ; here are some of the most peculiar ones : Bean\nGulch, Bilk Gulch, Boomerang Gulch, Greenhorn Gulch,\nHell-Gate Gulch, Hail-Columbia Gulch, Hangman's\nGulch, Hope Gulch, Ice-House Gulch, Last-Chance\nGulch, Lost-Horse Gulch, Magpie Gulch, New-York Prickly Pear Canyon, Manitoba R. R. 3SS\n14 if i\nw)\nk \ i\n;\n81\nft\"? Ill\nill\ngflfi 1\nlit\nL v\n\"rs Montana.\nGulch, Peter's Gulch, Show-Down Gulch, and Yankee\nDoodle Gulch. Helena is the second point of importance\nin the Territory. Near it are the low valleys of the Missouri, which are rapidly becoming the homes of thrifty\nfarmers.\nIn regard to the grazing qualities of this country,\nfiner grasses have never anywhere been seen than between\nthe Columbia and the Missouri rivers. Their nutritive\nqualities are apparent from the number and condition\nof the stock that feed upon them. Wild hay. is cut\nfrom thousands of acres. The grass is mostly a wild\nbunch-grass, growing from twelve to eighteen inches\nhigh, and covering the entire country. Horses and\nhorned stock by thousands, and sheep by the hundreds,\nall bespeak the wealth that is wrapped up in the native\ngrasses of this region. Years ago it was prophesied that\nthe wealth of this beautiful region would eventually consist of thousands of fleecy sheep to be sheared; the\nstreams of the Rocky Mountains themselves might be\ncaught and harnessed to the spindles and looms of wool\nmanufactories to be erected, and the wool-trade with the\nSt. Louis market would constitute a trade replete with\nwealth and magnitude.\nThe city was started by a few emigrants from Minnesota, who discovered a gold mine, which, for several\nmonths, they worked quietly, amid their majestic mountain\nscenery, making no announcement of their wealth. In\nthe winter of 1864 their secret became known, and a\nheterogeneous population was drawn to the locality.\nClaims advanced in price, and the discoverers reaped io8 California and Alaska.\nfortunes. A hundred ravines near Helena showed gold,\nand every one of them was soon claimed from mouth to\nsource. The first settlement made here was called Last-\nChance Gulch.\nThe years 1865 and 1866 were those of the greatest\nexcitement and immigration and gold production in the\nTerritory. In the latter year, probably thirty-five thousand\npeople were there, and twelve to fifteen millions of dollars\nwere taken out, mostly from the sides and bottoms of the\ngulches. Two men washed out a ton of gold, and from a\nsingle I bar \" in Confederate Gulch three companies took\na million and a half of dollars' worth.\nThe ranchman finds in Helena a good market for his\nproduce\u00E2\u0080\u0094butter, eggs, cattle, horses, sheep, etc. The\nmajority of the ranches are stocked with the best, and it\nis not a matter of wonder that they furnish the finest veal,\nbeef, and mutton in the world. It is a fact that cattle are\nherded during the winter months, and on the approach of\nspring are in better condition and fatter than cattle in the\nEastern States which are corn-fed and kept stabled during\nthe same period. The same remark also applies to horses\nand mules. Considering the newness of the country it is\nwell supplied with produce. Thousands of tons of hay\nare put up every season, and esculent roots are raised in\nprolific quantities.\nWe left Helena on the evening of the 9th of May,\npassing through the Prickly-Pear Canyon and following\nthe Missouri River. The road crossed and recrossed the\nold stage route to Helena, which was abandoned only a\nfew years ago. Prickly Pear Canyon, Manitoba R. R.\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\u00E2\u0080\u00A2 .' \u00E2\u0096\u00A0 I\niff\nw.\nIi III I\n>\nHelen;\n.i M\n&'\nif^|g|fi^ -tv^A. -m'..\ning the -newnes:\neduce, Tiousj\n\u00C2\u00A7\nI'M '\n* t\nB\",\nI ill\n} Montana.\nGreat Falls (at which point we arrived about eleven\no'clock in the evening) is situated at the wonderful falls of\nthe Missouri River, just where the Sun River empties into\nthat stream. The town is beautifully located, and it is safe\nto say it has more natural resources, as a town site, than\nany other place in the country. At this point the Missouri River has a fall of five hundred feet in a few miles.\nThe country around the town is a gently undulating plain,\nthe land being of an excellent quality and varying from\na sandy loam to a dark clay loam, without any admixture\nof sand. This description of country extends for miles\naround Great Falls, the nearest mountains, plainly in sight\nand densely timbered, being twenty-five miles away.\nThe principal street is lined with business houses, built\nof brick and stone. Though the town is only three years\nold, it has a population of two thousand inhabitants, public\nparks, electric lights, a fine hotel, and public school-house.\nEventually it will be the distributing point for all the mines\nin the neighborhood ; it will be to Montana what Denver\nand the country surrounding it are to Colorado.\nOn the morning of the ioth of May, with an engine\nand the buffet-car, we went to San Colu, about sixteen\nmiles south of Great Falls, where the new coal-mines are\nlocated. These mines were discovered a short time before\nwe visited them, and have now been worked about a year\nand a half. They have a working thickness of from seven\nto fourteen feet. Previous to their discovery the railroad\nat this point was compelled to haul its coal from St. Paul,\na distance of fifteen hundred miles, obtaining the greater\npart of it from Ohio. Since the discovery of the coal- I 7 M m\nhi in\nIf I\n5\nHO\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nmines a large smelter has been put up by prominent New\nYork capitalists, to smelt iron ore, which is found in the\nhills near by in great abundance. A railroad has been\nbuilt to the mines, so that now the ore can be delivered to\nthe smelter at comparatively small cost. A million dollars\nhas already been expended on this smelter, and a Boston\ncompany has lately erected another at a cost of half a\nmillion more than that sum. Heretofore it would not\nhave been practicable to erect smelters in this part of the\ncountry, owing to the want of coal, but since its discovery ores can be brought from Butte and the mines\nnear by direct to the smelter, and smelted, thus leaving\nonly the valuable part of the ores to be transported East.\nThe reader can form some idea of the richness of the ores\nin the mines south of this point, when it is stated that the\nowners can afford to draw the ores by team a distance of\nnearly sixty miles to the smelter. There is also at this\nplace a very valuable lime quarry, which yields fifty-two\nper cent, of lime.\nWe were all very much interested in our visit to the\nsmelter, and also enjoyed the sight of an enormous spring\nthat bursts from the ground just below Black Eagle Falls,\nabout one hundred yards back from the river. This is the\nlargest known spring in America, and is believed by many\nto be the mouth of a subterranean river. According- to an\no\nengineer's report on the subject, the volume of water\nfrom it equals a river one foot deep and seventy yards\nwide. Captains Lewis and Clark, who explored the\nMissouri in 1804, mentioned this great natural phenomenon.\nII Here, also, is a natural spring of pure cold water, which,\nif walled up, to any desired height, could supply the upper\nstory of any house on the highest point in this region, while\nin quantity there is enough to supply two cities as large as\nNew York. HI\nmil\nI\nCHAPTER XV.\n| \"THE GARDEN OF MONTANA.\"\nON leaving Great Falls, coming east, we journeyed\nfor two hundred miles through the Judith basin,\nwhich is known as \" The Garden of Montana.\"\nBenton, which is forty miles northeast of Great Falls, is\none of the great shipping points of Montana. In 1888\nthere were shipped from Benton three thousand four hundred head of fat cattle, sixty-two thousand five hundred\nhead of sheep, and nearly two million pounds of wool.\nFrom the \" Garden of Montana \" east of Great Falls, on\nthe Manitoba Railroad, in the same period, there were\nshipped thirty-five thousand head of fat cattle, ninety-\nfour thousand head of sheep, and about two and a half\nmillion pounds of wool.\nWe passed through Assiniboia, near to which is Fort\nAssiniboine, which we could see from the train. This is\none of the largest and best-built military posts in the\nUnited States, the buildings alone having cost over two\nmillions of dollars. There are seven companies of infantry,\nand two of cavalry stationed here. Before the railroad\nwas built, some two years and a half ago, Helena, two\nhundred and seventy miles away, was the nearest point of\n11:\n\ II ll.l I'\nETCHING\nNorth Arm, Biscotasing Lake.\nBy J. C. NICOLL.\nProof rs\n-a\ni\nMill\nm\nml lf[ II\n! mil III\n. \u00C2\u00AB\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 i The Garden of Montana.\n15\nrailroad communication. Bear Paw Mountains, rising out\nof an almost level prairie, can be seen for miles around.\nThe range is about seven thousand feet high, and is covered by large tracts of pine timber. Several streams of\nfine spring water gush forth on the plains from the sides\nof the mountain range. Valuable leads of gold\", silver,\nand lead were discovered two summers ago, and many\nmines were located. At the base of these mountains\nis one of the most attractive tracts of land ever seen ; it is\nslightly rolling, and elevated about five hundred feet above\nthe valley of the Milk River. Summer before last we\nwere told that the grass was waist-higfh over the whole\no o\nface of the country, and very thick; it had been nourished\nby the frequent summer showers which are peculiar to this\nsection. Large veins of the finest bituminous coal, from\nsix to twenty feet in thickness, crop out at frequent intervals along the banks of the streams.\nThe country through which we passed towards evening\nwas unsettled and looked very new ; although a fertile\nand good grass country, for a distance of two hundred\nmiles we saw only four houses, and those were railway\nstations. Many of the stations on this part of the road\nconsist of simply a switch or siding, with the name put on\na post driven into the ground ; attached to the post is\na box containing a telegraph key connected with the\nwires, so that an operator may telegraph in case of\nnecessity. The Manitoba road carries an operator on\neach of its trains, so that these boxes can be used in case\nof need. There are no lamps on these switches, and if\nthere were there are no inhabitants here to attend to them.\n\u00E2\u0080\u009Ef w\n114 California and Alaska.\nDuring a part of the journey the writer took one of\nthe children on the engine, where he remained an hour;\nit was the first experience of the kind he had ever had.\nWe saw a number of wolves on the prairie, and, at times,\npassed many groups of Indians, especially at Assiniboine,\nwhere we purchased from them a number of buffalo horns.\nAlthough this country is so sparsely inhabited, it must\nbe borne in mind that only eighteen months before we saw\nit there was no railroad passing through the section, and\nthe Government had only a year before opened this great\nreservation for settlement, which, in itself, is an empire containing about eighteen millions of acres, eligible for free\nhomes under the United States land laws. This great\ntract through which the railroad runs is the cream of the\nTerritory, and, without doubt, in the future will represent\nthe great grain-producing section of the United States.\nMany people suppose that because this Territory is\nnear the northern boundary its climate is severe; the\ncontrary is the case. It is within the limits of the warm\nwinds which blow from the Pacific coast in the winter.\nThese winds are called \" chinooks,\" and as long as they\ncontinue, which is often for days at a time, the weather\nwill be mild and spring-like. The limit of the 1 chi-\nnook\" winds is three hundred miles east of the mountains,\nand within this section all kinds of stock graze at large the\no o\nyear round. The valleys are protected, and with the high\nplains are all richly watered. The slight snows melt immediately after they fall, leaving the ground bare, and it is\nvery seldom that there is enough snow to allow sleighing.\nThe rivers, if they close at all, remain frozen but for a few\nweeks, the ice invariably going out the last of January or\nll The Garden of Montana.\nduring February. Signal-service records show that the\ntemperature in the winter is often higher at Great Falls\nthan at San Antonio, Texas, or at Memphis, Tennessee.\nIn the vicinity of Great Falls the climate is especially beneficial to persons with weak lungs, consumption and kindred diseases being almost unknown.\nThe following table will give a very good idea of the\ntemperature at Great Falls, which is only a few miles east of\nHelena, and if anything is a milder climate than at Helena:\nTemperatures for February, 1888, at\nHelena.\nChicago.\nSt.\nLouis.\n7 A.M. 3 P.M.\n7 a.m. 3 P.M.\n7 A.M. 3 P.M.\nFebruary 1\n3\u00C2\u00B0 36\n30 32\n3\u00C2\u00B0\n34\ni 2\n28 24\n28 32\n34\n34\n3\n22 32\n3\u00C2\u00B0 32\n32\n34\n4\n24 30\n32 32\n32\n36\n5\n20 34\n24 20\n22\n20\n6\n32 36\n6 24\n22\n34\n7\n38 40\n14 14\n34\n46\n8\n46 38\n12 0\n14\n16\n9\n44 44\n16 6\n6\n4\n10\n36 42\n4 12\n6\n14\nn\n44 48\n4 18\n18\n24\n12\n46 56\n16 28\n18\n44\n\" i3\n40 40\n26 42\n34\n48\ni 14\n42 30\n26 16\n46\n3\u00C2\u00B0\ni is\n28 20\n8 16\n16\n26\n16\n36 48\n14 36\n24\n44\n\" 17\n34 46\n28 40 -\n36\n52\n18\n40 42\n36 42\n38\n56\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 *\n34 42\n48 46\n48\n58\nI 20\n34 38\n28 24\n34\n46\n21\n34 40\n18 28\n32\n36\n22\n38 46\n28 38\n32\n44\n1 23\n32 44\n34 38\n36\n46\ni 24\n28 40\n32 40\n38\n42\ni 25\n34 38\n34 16\n3\u00C2\u00B0\n3\u00C2\u00B0\ni 26\n34 44\n4 6\n20\n22\n27\n34 52\n2 6\n0\n12\n28\n28 12\n10 30\n18\n32\nmammmmm n6 California and Alaska.\nThe farmers begin the work of sowing their crops in\nFebruary and March. The summers are not excessively\nhot. Harvest commences in August, and fall work is\ncontinued through the months of September, October,\nand November. Mild autumn weather lasts into December, thus giving a season of nine or ten months of beauti-\n7 o o\nful weather. A notable feature about the climate is the\ndryness of the air ; in the winter the mountains can be\neasily seen from sixty to one hundred miles away. Wheat\nyields from thirty to sixty bushels per acre, oats from fifty\nto one hundred and five bushels per acre, barley forty to\nseventy bushels, timothy from one and a half to three tons\nper acre, and other grains in proportion. Timber grows\nfreely along the rivers ; saw-mills, tanneries, flouring-mills,\nand mechanics' shops are in active and profitable operation ; so that, with a climate almost as favorable as that of\nColorado, and a soil more fertile, and an industry similarly diversified, Montana seems sure to occupy an important place in the commercial future of the Great West.\nThe Great Falls of the Missouri, from which the town\nof Great Falls takes its name, are esteemed by travellers\nas holding rank scarcely below the cataracts of Niagara.\nBeyond Council Bluffs commences a country of great\ninterest and grandeur, called the Upper Missouri; buffalo, elk, and mountain sheep abound. Lewis and Clark,\nand other travellers, relate having seen here larg-e and\n7 o o\nsingular petrifactions, both animal and vegetable. On\nthe top of a hill they found a petrified skeleton of a huge\nfish, forty-five feet in length. Navigation is very dangerous, on account of the swift current, the countless islands Great Falls of the Missouri River,\nMoittana. \u00C2\u00A7 m-vl \"1 lift\n1 II\niiiilf\nkith The Garden of Montana\nand sand-bars, and the murderous \" snags \" and \" sawyers.\"\nA \" snag \" is a tree which, when washed away from the\nbank, floats into the stream, and then partially sinks ; the\nroots become fastened in the bottom, and then the sharp\nstems, rising nearly to and above the surface of the water,\nare the fatal snags that almost instantly sink any steamer\nstriking them. They always lie with their sharp ends\npointing down the stream, and consequently are dangerous principally to ascending steamers. When a steamer\nis descending the stream, it slides over them, instead of\nbeing impaled. They are then known as \" sawyers,\" if\nthey project above the water, the current giving them\na waving motion. At a low stage of water, navigation is\nalmost impossible.\nThe Great Falls of the Missouri are also wonderful\nconsidered from a utilitarian point of view, or, in other\nwords, the amount of water-power which they would be\ncapable of furnishing,* which, as estimated by a prominent\nengineer, would be one million horse-power. It would\nseem to be only a question of time when the town of\nGreat Falls will be another St. Paul or Minneapolis. The\nManitoba road intend building- a line north of Great\nFalls, to connect with the Canadian Pacific. CHAPTER XVI.\nFROM ST. PAUL TO MANITOBA.\nWE arrived at St. Paul on Sunday morning, May\n12th, about half-past seven o'clock, and after\nbreakfast went at once to the Ryan House.\nSoon after our arrival Mr. F. B. Clarke, of the Omaha\nroad, called upon us ; we had the pleasure of dining with\nhim, and afterwards spent the evening with Mr. Hill.\nAfter getting comfortably settled in our rooms in the\nmorning, we took carriages and drove around the city.\nSome of our party went to church, and in the afternoon\nwe took another drive around the town.\nThe following (Monday) morning, the writer's brother,\nWalter, Vice-President; Mr. Flagg, Gen'l Superintendent ;\nMr. Spoor, Division Superintendent; and Mr. Smith,\nprivate secretary, arrived from New York. The morning\nwas occupied in talking over \" Company\" matters.\nAfter lunch our whole party went out to Mr. Hill's\nfarm. While Mrs. Webb and the writer were admiring\nthe stock on the place, the rest of the party went fishing.\nWe returned to the city about seven o'clock, in time to\nsee Walter and his party off to Chicago. Mr. Smith had\n118\nfe j .r V Cow-Boys, Manitoba Railroad. p>m, St5SS i - \u00E2\u0096\u00A0\nimi\ntk jyllj I -II From St. Paul to Manitoba\narranged to remain, and accompany us a little way on the\nCanadian Pacific, when, with Louis, he intended to take\nthe train, going home to New York by way of Montreal.\nWe had expected Mr. Creighton Webb to join us here\nand take Louis' place, but for some reason he could not\nget away.\nSoon after breakfast we all went over to Minneapolis.\nOn our arrival there we were met by Mr. Thomas Lowry,\nwho favored us with a pleasant drive over the city, showing us the parks and other places of interest, and taking\nus around the suburbs of the city. The writer had been\nto Minneapolis many times before, but must confess that\nnot until this occasion had he ever realized the extent and\nbeauty of this magnificent city. The saw- and grist-mills\nhere are numerous and extensive. The Driving Park,\nsouth of the town, is an enclosure of seventy-five acres,\nand used for the purpose indicated by its name. Lakes\nHarriet and Calhoun also afford delightful drives, while\nLake Minnetonka is twelve miles to the west.\nAt half-past twelve we returned to St. Paul, and at\nonce busied ourselves in getting ready to start for Winnipeg. At this point the cars were all cleaned both inside\nand out, the trucks and running gear were overhauled,\nand a plentiful supply of provisions laid in, \"in fact every\npreparation was made for our second long trip to the\nPacific coast.\nPromptly at three o'clock, with Mr. Mohler, the genial\nAssistant General Manager of the Manitoba road, we\nstarted northward. Mr. Hill, Mr. Clarke, and a group of\nother friends came down to the station and bade us good- 120\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nby. The ride during the evening on our way north was\nexceedingly interesting ; we saw a new part of the road,\nand the scenery was somewhat different from what is seen\non the western section. We found the track to be in\nexcellent condition, and made very good time after we\ncame out of St. Paul.\nAs we entered the park region of Minnesota, we were\ncontinually passing lakes ; it is said that there are ten\nthousand of these within an area of one hundred square\nmiles. These lakes form one of the most inviting and\npicturesque features of the State. They are found in\nevery section, and are annually visited by large numbers\nof tourists and sportsmen. Sometimes they are little\nponds a mile in circumference, and again sheets of water\nforty or fifty miles in extent. Their shores are charmingly\nwooded, and frequently present, fine pictures of cliff and\nheadland. The waters are pure and transparent, and are\nfilled with white-fish, trout, pike, pickerel, sucker, perch,\nand other finny inhabitants. The largest of these lakes\nare the Minnetonka, the Osakis or Spirit Lake, White\nBear, Kandiyohi, Otter Tail, and Mille Lacs.\nThis is a very fertile wheat country. Romantic stories\nof the wonders of the land which now forms the State of\nMinnesota were told more than two centuries ago by the\nzealous French missionaries, who had, even at that remote\nperiod, pushed their adventures thither; nevertheless,\nscarcely twenty years have elapsed since immigration has\nearnestly set that way, creating populous towns and cultivated farms along the rivers and valleys before occupied\nby the canoe and the wigwam of the savage alone. Some From St. Paul to Manitoba.\nidea of the marvellous growth and development of this\nyoung State may be formed from the fact that during the\npast decade the cultivated area of Minnesota has increased\nnearly three hundred per cent., the population nearly two\nhundred and fifty per cent., and the value of manufactures\nabout two hundred and fifty per cent.\nIt seemed quite like home to get back to our train and\nspend our evenings in the buffet-car. The kindness and\nattention of the Manitoba officials could scarcely be exceeded ; nothing was left undone to make our journey over\ntheir lines thoroughly comfortable and enjoyable. Their\ntreatment reminded us of the generous hospitality we had\nreceived on the Southern Pacific more than any other experience we had met with since leaving the Pacific coast.\nThe Manitoba people are certainly to be congratulated\nupon having such a superb piece of property, and beyond\na doubt there is a truly wonderful future in store for it.\nPersons who are looking- for homes in the West should not\nfail to consider carefully the advantages to be derived from\nlocating on the line of this road in Montana ; we were given\no o\nto understand that the company offer extraordinary inducements to settlers.\nWe passed through Winnipeg early on the morning of\nMay 15th. Before arriving, the writer had received a telegram from the American consul at that place inviting our\nparty to stop over at that city and attend a banquet which\nit was intended to give in our honor, and, at the same time,\nbe presented to the Governor of Manitoba. We were\nobliged to decline this flattering invitation, as we had arranged to stop at Winnipeg on our homeward journey,\n16 II\n12:\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nand besides it was the wish of Mr. Van Home that we\nshould go directly through to the coast and stop at different points on the Canadian Pacific road on our return.\nAfter leaving Winnipeg the country presented the appearance of one broad, level plain\u00E2\u0080\u0094not a prairie, but a\nwidening of the valleys of the Red and Assiniboine rivers,\nwhich unite at Winnipeg. There were large numbers of\ncattle to be seen, and, behind the trees, glimpses of well-\ntilled farms with comfortable farm-houses. The farmers\nhere devote their energies to dairy products and to cattle-\nbreeding. For nearly one hundred miles we followed the\ncourse of the Assiniboine River, which is marked by a belt\nof timber. Between Winnipeg and Brandon the stations\nare about eight miles apart, many of them representing\nlively and enterprising towns, and at nearly all of them are\nlarge grain elevators. We arrived at Brandon about ten\no'clock on the morning of May 15th, and there bade good-\nby to Louis and Mr. Smith.\nBrandon has a population of five thousand four hundred, and is a divisional point on the railway. It is the\nlargest grain market in Manitoba, and the distributing\nmarket for an extensive and well-settled country. It has\nfive grain elevators, a flouring-mill, and a saw-mill. A railway is being built from Brandon northwest to the Saskatchewan country. At this point, too, the standard time changes\nto \" mountain time \"\u00E2\u0080\u0094i. e., it is one hour slower.\nAfter changing engines, and having the train carefully\nexamined, we proceeded on our westward journey, passing\nthrough a rolling prairie, and about one hundred miles\nfrom Brandon we entered the Province of Assiniboia. We From St. Paul to Manitoba\nsaw a great number of ponds and small hills covered with\nlow brush, where it is said excellent sport can be had in the\nwild-fowl season. At Broadview, a pretty place, but a\ndivisional point dependent upon the railway, we changed\nengines again. A short ride from here brought us to the\ncelebrated Bell farm, which embraces one hundred square\nmiles of land. The work upon this vast estate is performed with military precision and discipline. The furrows ploughed on this farm are usually four miles in\nlength ; one furrow out and one back is considered half\na day's work and in the afternoon the same amount of\nlabor is performed. The cottages on the farm are built of\nstone, and barns can be seen for miles around; the large\ncollection of buildings at the headquarters near the railway\nstation include a church, a flour-mill, and, of course, a grain\nelevator, and it may be said here that in this section an\nelevator will be found wherever there is wheat to be handled or stored.\nAfter passing Qu'Appelle we went for eight miles\nthrough a small-timbered country and then entered the\ngreat Regina Plain, which seems to be apparently boundless, extending in all directions ; the soil is very fertile to a\ngreat depth. Regina is the capital of Assiniboia, and the\ndistributing point for the sections of country lying far north\nand south. A railway runs from here northward, and will\nsoon be extended to Edmonton on the North Saskatchewan. The Executive Council of the Northwest Territories, which embrace the provinces of Assiniboia, Alberta,\nSaskatchewan, and Athabasca, meets here. The Lieutenant-Governor's residence is at this place, and in the imme- California and Alaska.\ndiate neighborhood are the headquarters of the celebrated\nNorthwest Mounted Police, whose buildings, including\nofficers' quarters, drill hall, barracks, offices, store-houses,\nstables, etc., could be plainly seen from the train. The\nNorthwest Mounted Police is a military organization numbering one thousand young and picked men, who are stationed over the Northwest, for the purpose of watching\nthe Indians and preserving order generally. Moose Jaw,\nwhere we changed engines, is another divisional point.\nThere we saw a number of Indians, encamped on the\nbanks of the river. The Indian name for this place is\nI The-creek -where-the-white - man -mended-the-cart-with-\na-moose-jaw-bone.\"\nAfter leaving Moose Jaw we noticed that the prairie\nwas well marked in all directions with old buffalo-trails,\nand here and there the old wallows. This section was\nonce the home of the buffalo ; we say was, for their number\nis rapidly decreasing. Not one was visible, for they\nquickly leave the land which is traversed by the train.\nOnce, however, this country was blackened by their hordes\nas they wandered over it at their will, or marched from\none feeding-ground to another. In making this remark\nwe may say that they do not run in a mob as represented\nin some pictures, but move in single file, like policemen.\nWe crossed hundreds of their deeply worn tracks leading\nstraight away into the distance, and surely indicating that\nthe slopes of the Rockies are fitted for the purpose to\nwhich they are being applied by the settler, viz., the rearing\nand feeding of cattle.\nOn this day we ran very fast, and by half-past seven\no'clock had covered five hundred and ten miles, arriving at I\nw\nI\nView of Narrows, Biscotasing Lake. It; Sir\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 m\nill\nm if 111 From St. Paul to Manitoba.\n!25\nSwift Current, a divisional point, where we changed en-\no\ngines. The country was exceedingly picturesque and much\nmore thickly settled than we had been led to anticipate.\nWhile riding in the baggage-car we saw an antelope, at\nwhich we had four or five unsuccessful shots ; we also saw\na bear and a number of wolves. Rush Lake is a favorite\nresort for water-fowl, swans, geese, duck, and pelican,\nwhich at times are seen here in countless numbers. Snipe,\nplover, and curlew, which are common enough upon the\nprairies, are found here in great abundance.\nWe changed engines at Medicine Hat, situated on the\nSaskatchewan River, which is spanned by a fine steel bridge.\nThere are large repair-shops located at this place, which is\na very important station on the line, and not far away are\nlargfe coal-mines. The river is navigable for some dis-\no o\ntance above, and for eight hundred miles below. From\nMedicine Hat the ground creeps up towards the Rocky\nMountains.\nAbout thirty-five miles from Medicine Hat is a small\nstation called Langevin. When they were building the\nrailroad here they wanted water, and after boring over a\nthousand feet, hoping to make an artesian well, the search\nfor water was repaid by fire. At least, one day, the borers,\nholding a candle or striking- a match close to the hole, were\nO O\nthrust back by a fountain of flame, which licked up the\nhouse in which their engine was at work, and there stood\na pillar of fire in the midst of the green prairie. They had\nthen reached a depth of nearly eleven hundred feet, and,\npassing through the huge coal-bed which lies beneath, had\nprobably struck a fissure. At all events, up rushed the\ngas, which, becoming ignited, soon consumed their solitary\nfllWI\nI \w\\ny~\nWAL,\n126 California and Alaska.\nshelter. Presently, however, after some pains, the hole\nthrough which it issued was plugged and fitted with an\niron pipe, governed by a tap. This natural gas is now\nused by the railroad company to pump water for the\nengines. The prairie at this point in August is said to\npresent a very fine appearance, resembling, at times, a\nbillowy ocean of grass.\nWe arrived at Gleichen, a railway divisional point,\nnear the foot of the Rockies, on the 16th of May, at about\nhalf-past two in the morning. We stopped there until\nfour o'clock to see the sun rise on the prairie, and it was\none of the most imposing spectacles we had ever witnessed.\nAs the orb of day rose over the horizon it appeared to be\none mass of fire, while the moon was shining in the sky in\nthe opposite direction. The mountains at first were invisible, but as the sun gradually came into view the reflection of its bright-red rays was thrown upon the snowy\npeaks of the Rockies in the distance. A few hours after\nwe had witnessed this sig-ht the mountains began to be\nO O\nvisible ; although we had crossed the continent twice in\nthe preceding five weeks, it seemed as if this was the first\nview we had really had of the Rocky Mountains. Shortly\nafter leaving Gleichen we came to Calgary, very charmingly located on the banks of the Bow River, and surrounded by most excellent farming lands. This is the\nmost important, as well as the handsomest, town between\nBrandon and Vancouver, and is situated on a hill-girt\nplateau, overlooked by the white peaks of the Rockies ; it\nis the centre of the trade of the great ranching country,\nand the chief source of supply for the mining districts in The Rear of the Special Train at Field. m\n\u00C2\u00BBVM'\ ' ;, .;;;:.\u00E2\u0096\u00A0;. V,^M;C *va ;\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 j\nart1\nifll'\n.\niU 'Ml\nii M CM I\nii View of Special Train m\nr;V' Hi,\ni fit\nSwill\nI 1 if\nI I\nI\nI il 1 From St. Paul to Manitoba.\nthe mountains beyond. The Hudson Bay Company have\nhere an important post, and it is one of the principal stations of the Northwest Mounted Police. Lumber is easily\nobtainable here, as it is floated down the Bow River from\nBanff. Parties going into the extreme Northwest leave\nthe train here, and after travelling from three to four\nhundred miles into the interior they find the largest and\nbest horse-ranches in existence. One of eleven farms belonging to Sir John Lister Kaye is located at Calgary. Sir\nJohn married Miss Yznaga, of New York. As we passed\nthrough Calgary we saw his car standing on a side-track,\nhe having recently come over on a visit from the other\nside. His eleven farms are located along the line of the\nroad between Brandon and Calgary; there are ten thousand acres in each of them, and they are all situated near\ntowns, or the nucleus of towns, and will eventually be exceedingly valuable. The land originally cost a large\nEnglish stock company, which Sir John represents, about\n$3 an acre. It is only a question of time before it will be\nworth from $20 to $25 an acre for farming purposes alone;\nmuch of this property would bring that price to-day, owin\nto its proximity to growing towns. Sir John visits the\nfarms twice a year and overlooks the worl\nAfter leaving Calgary and crossing the Bow, we ran\nthrough large ranches, and immense herds of horses and\nOO '\ncattle were to be seen on every side. At Morley, a station\nnear the mountains, we stopped for about five minutes at\na trader's store and picked out a number of horns, heads,\netc., and a beautiful grizzly-bear skin. At Kananaskis the\nmountains appeared to be close at hand, and we entered i28 California and Alaska.\nW\nOR\n\u00C2\u00BBi\nthe gap or pass through which the Bow River runs, and\nwhich we were to pass through, and soon crossed the\nRockies. The scenery at this stage of the journey was\ngrand and impressive. Above us, on both sides, we saw\nvertical walls rising to a dizzy height, snow-laden, seared\nand scarred by enormous gorges and promontories. At\nCan more we changed engines, and here had an excellent\nO O '\nview of the mountain, representing in profile what are\ncalled the 1 Three Sisters.\" Following the Bow River we\nentered the Canadian National Park. We hauled up on a\nside-track and waited for the transcontinental train for\nthe East to pass. The weather being quite warm, we took\nthe children out for an airing ; some of the party amused\nthemselves by firing at a mark, while others made use of\ntheir fishing-rods in Bow River.\nThe ride from here on through the mountains was\ngrand beyond description. Each mountain as it loomed\nup into view seemed grander and more imposing than the\nlast. The scenery in this part of the country is certainly\nmore magnificent than any thing we had dreamed of. As\nwe neared the summit, an altitude of five thousand three\nhundred feet above the sea, Castle Mountain was seen\nahead, a sheer precipice five thousand feet high, surmounted\nwith turrets, bastions, and battlements complete, and partly\nsnow-capped. At the summit we passed by a small lake\ncalled Summit Lake, in which were vividly reflected the\nsurrounding mountains. About half a mile east of this point,\nthe water, as it trickled down the mountain side and entered\nthe ditch on the side of the.road, could be seen to divide,\npart running to the east and part to the west. From here Ui\nJ\nMount Stephen, Canadian Pacific\nRailway.\nilil H. i\\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0mmi- n\nr -filltt\nI n\nmauc\niltitudi\nIV11\n-fl\nII 111\nJLv ii 1!\nMl\nX\nmm '.ft\nu\ni!f\nt ,r\nill\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0n&\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0Hi fflwT'tlW\nWW fit]\n111\nK\nH\nL\nJim i I \u00C2\u00BBfffi s,\niiliii\nAA UB\nStony Creek Bridge\u00E2\u0080\u0094Height, 296 feet,\nCanadian Pacific Railway.\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2i fl M\nvtjme\nll>il .\nm\n\m rfn?!i I\n\u00C2\u00AB!.\nII 111\nlit!\na great difficulties of the railway company from snow in\nthe winter season occur from Bear Creek and the Summit\nand a similar distance down on the other side. These\nbridges are protected by heavy logs, built in the shape of\nangular piers, and so placed in the gorge as to break the\nslide of snow and subdivide it; in that way its force- is\nlessened, and it is guided away under the bridges. The\nsnow-sheds, which we entered not far from here, cost the\ncompany over $3,000,000. They are open on the side for\nthe purpose of admitting the light, and are completely\nequipped with hose, etc., to be used in case of fire, and are\nguarded by men day and night. These sheds are built of\nheavy squared cedar timber, dove-tailed and bolted together, backed with rock, and fitted into the mountain side\nin such a manner as to bid defiance to the most terrific\navalanche.\nAs we ascend the mountain, Bear Creek is graduallv\n1 O J\ncompressed, by Mount Macdonald on the left and the\nHermit on the right, into one narrow deep ravine, which\nforms a contracted portal to Rogers' Pass at the summit.\nAs our train emerged from the snow-sheds, Mount Macdonald was seen towering a mile and a quarter above the\nrailway to an almost vertical height, its numberless pinnacles piercing the very zenith. As Mr. Van Home says\nin describing the scene : \" Its base is but a stone's throw\ndistant, and it is so sheer, so bare and stupendous, and\nyet so near, that one is overawed by a sense of immensity\nand mighty grandeur. This is the climax of mountain\nscenery. In passing before the face of this gigantic precipice, the line clings to the base of Hermit Mountain, and,\n'it I PpIw\nk 1 /}\n'\u00E2\u0080\u00A2 d l!ll\nI\n\"llllll\n(\n!' ] i > I\n134 California and Alaska.\nas the station at Rogers' Pass is neared, its clustered\nspires appear, facing those of Mount Macdonald, and\nnearly as high. These two matchless mountains were\nonce apparently united, but some great convulsion of\nnature has split them asunder, leaving barely room for\nthe railway.\"\nThis pass was named after Major A. B. Rogers, by\nwhose adventurous energy it was discovered in 1883 ; previous to that time no human foot had ever been planted\non the summit of this great central range. The pass lies\nbetween two lines of huge snow-clad peaks. The pass\non the north side forms a prodigious amphitheatre, under\nwhose parapet, seven or eight thousand feet above the\nvalley, half a dozen glaciers may be seen at once, and so\nnear that their shining green fissures are distinctly visible.\nThe changing effects of light and shadow on this brotherhood of peaks, of which The Hermit and Macdonald are\nthe chiefs, can never be forgotten by the fortunate traveller who has seen the sunset or the sunrise tinting their\nbattlements, or has looked up from the green valley at\na snow-storm, trailing its white curtain along their crests,\nwith perchance a snowy peak or two standing serene\nabove the harmless cloud. The line of peaks connecting\nMacdonald with Sir Donald stretches to the south, their\nrear slopes having been visible in ascending the Beaver.\nThis pass-valley has been reserved by the government as\na national park.\nLeaving Selkirk Summit, the road commences to descend the mountains, and off to the right is seen, for many\nmiles far below, the deep valley of the Illicilliwaet, which I*-\nGreat Glacier, Canadian Pacific Railway\ni i\\\n% mnl\nJ' V|I||\ni | 'i I\nfllfl\nm} i\nJ li Mil: it\n/\nMm\nI 1^\nGlacier Hotel and Mountain V m ., J -\nf ! Wi\nMI\nl(!\nI'llj\nIV; . \u00E2\u0080\u00A2.\n<\nKB!\nlb Mountains and Gorges\nmakes its way westward, following a devious course through\nO\nthe mountains. The line of the railroad can easily be\ntraced, until it finally reaches the bottom of the valley by\na series of extraordinary curves, doubling upon itself again\nand again. Some views of this portion of the road are\ngiven.\nDirectly ahead is seen the Great Glacier of the Selkirks, a vast plateau of sloping ice, extending as far into\nthe mountains as the eye can reach. It is claimed by the\nPacific Railway people that this glacier is as large as all\nthe glaciers in Switzerland combined.\nWe passed in front of the snow-sheds on an outer\ntrack, which is provided so that travellers may view the\nscenery in summer, and arrived at Glacier Station ; an\nillustration of the snow-sheds and the summer track is\ngiven herewith. The train remained at the station about\nhalf an hour, and, as we did not have time enough to visit\nthe Great Glacier, our party all left the train and took a\nstroll in the woods. The hotel here is a very handsome\nbuilding, after the Swiss chalet style, and is owned and\nmanaged by the railroad company. It serves not only\nas a dining-room for passengers, but also as a pleasant\nsummer resort for sportsmen and tourists. Owing to the\nheavy grades here, and all through the mountains, the\ndining-cars are not run on the through trains, as they\nmake the trains too heavy ; but the railroad company have\nprovided, at proper distances and at the most interesting\nand convenient places where the scenery is the finest,\ncomfortable hotels, where passengers are able to get an\nexcellent dinner, the trains stopping at such stations between one half and three quarters of an hour. Passengers are also allowed to remain two or three days at\na station, or lie over for a train. The Great Glacier is\nabout half a mile distant from the hotel, and only a\nhundred feet above the level of the building ; a good path\nhas been made to it, so that its exploration is quite practicable and easy. The water for the fountain in front of\nthe hotel is furnished by piping a stream coming out from\nthe Great Glacier. This stream also furnishes water for\nthe hotel and railroad. The agent of the hotel informed\nus that game is very abundant in the mountains near by,\nthe locality being especially celebrated for the big-horn\nsheep or mountain goat ; Canada bears are also killed\nhere during the season. Elk, deer, and other game, however, are not found at quite such high altitudes. Views\nof our special train at this station, together with views of\nthe depot, Great Glacier, Mount Hermit, and the valley\nDelow, are given on other pages. A tame Canada bear\nwas chained to the piazza of the hotel ; he had been\ncaught in the mountains five months before we saw him,\nand his antics furnished considerable amusement to passengers during their stop at the station.\nLeaving the Glacier House, the road makes a rapid\ndescent to the celebrated loop of the Canadian Pacific\nRailway. The line makes several startling curves and\ntwists, crosses the valley, then doubles back to the right a\n* O\nmile or more to within a stone's throw of the track, then,\nsweeping around, crosses the valley again, and at last continues down the dell parallel with its former course. On\nlooking back, the railroad track is seen on the mountain\n\u00E2\u0080\u0094 Sailor Bar Bluff, below Spuzzum,\nCanadian Pacific Railway.\nm\n' _J. \"HI\ni (!/\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\nMM\ni fr U\nllJl\nill\nII\ni\nf\nJf\nH\nIff'if\nill ill\nIflllSf\n1111\niii\nRK IV\n\u00E2\u0080\u0094 <*\u00E2\u0080\u0094\nTop View, Sailor Bar Bluff. Ml\nI;\nmu\\nill!\nmil\nJfeVS. IfII I\n\u00E2\u0084\u00A2wff f*\nII\nIfcA W Mountains and Gorges\nJ37\nside, cutting two long parallel gashes in the mountain, one\nabove the other; far to the left, and still hiofier above on\nthe other side of the valley, is seen the giant snow-shed,\njust below the summit near Rogers' Pass.\nAt Illicilliwaet we crossed for the first time the Illicil-\nliwaet River. The stream is very small here, but the\nwater is exceedingly turbulent and of a pea-green color,\ncaused by glacial mud, but it rapidly clarifies ; its source is\nsaid to be in the interior of the Great Glacier. The\nscenery is very wild, as the gorge through which the\nriver runs is very deep at places, and filled with the\ngigantic forest-trees for which British Columbia is justly\nnoted. At Albert Canyon the train often runs along the\nJ O\nbrink of several remarkably deep fissures in the solid rock,\nthe walls of which, on each side, rise to a height of one\nhundred feet, and at the top are very heavily wooded.\nThe river is fully three hundred feet below the railway, and\nis compressed into a boiling flume not more than twenty\nfeet wide. We had our train stop here for a few minutes,\nwhile we walked up and down the track viewing this truly\nremarkable freak of nature. The depth of the water must\nbe very great, as the gorge through which it flows is very\nnarrow and the volume of water flowing through it is\nenormous.\nAt Revelstoke, a railway divisional point on the\nColumbia River, we changed engines. We had seen the\nColumbia River on the other side of the Selkirks at\nDonald ; since then it had made a detour around the\nnorthern extremity of the Selkirks, while the course of the\nrailroad is directly across the mountains. At this point\n*k\\n11\nJ California and Alaska.\nthe river is not only larger, but is one thousand and fifty\nfeet lower down, than at Donald. From this point it is\nnavigable southward some two hundred miles, down to the\nUnited States boundary, where it expands into a number\nof lakes, around which there is said to be a beautiful and\nfertile country, where opportunities for sport are also unlimited. According to the railway officials this country\nhas been rarely visited by sportsmen ; miners are about\nthe only people who have ever penetrated its unknown\nrecesses. Kootenay Lake and Valley are both reached\nfrom this point.\nAfter leaving Revelstoke we crossed the Columbia\nRiver upon a bridge about half a mile long, and entered\nanother range of mountains by Eagle Pass. The railway\nofficials call particular attention to this pass, which is so\ndeep-cut and direct that it seems to have been purposely\nprovided for the railway in compensation, perhaps, for the\nenormous difficulties the engineers had to overcome in the\nRockies and the Selkirks. The highest point the railway\nis compelled to reach in crossing this range is only five\nhundred and twenty-five feet above the Columbia. At\nthe summit four beautiful lakes are passed in quick succession, each one occupying the entire width of the valley\nand forcing the railway on the mountain side in order to\npass them. This valley is filled with a dense growth of\nimmense trees, indigenous to this coast\u00E2\u0080\u0094spruce, Douglas\nfir, hemlock, cedar, balsam, and many other varieties.\nAt Craigellachie, twenty-eight miles from Revelstoke,\nthe last spike was driven in the Canadian Pacific Railway\non the 7th of November, 1885, the railroads from the east\nand west meeting here. At Sicamous, situated on the J\nInterior of Snow-Shed, Canadian Pacific\nRailway. Wmmn\nII\nH I\n11\nm\nfo Hermit Range, from Hotel, Showing\nCanadian Pacific Railway Station.\nm i' 1\n\u00C2\u00BB i\nf I\nI\n,M Mountains and Gorges.\ngreat Shuswap lakes, we reached what is said to be the\ncentre of one of the best sporting regions on the Canadian\nPacific line. Northward, within a day's journey, caribou\nare said to be very abundant. Within thirty miles to the\nsouth the deer-shooting is probably unequalled on this\ncontinent, and the lakes are celebrated for their large trout.\nThe London Times has well described this part of the\nline : \" The Eagle River leads us down to the Great Shuswap Lake, so named from the Indian tribe that lived on\nits banks, and who still have a ' reserve ' there. This is a\nmost remarkable body of water. It lies among the mountain ridges, and consequently extends its long narrow arms\nalong the intervening valleys like a huge octopus in half-\na-dozen directions. These arms are many miles long, and\nvary from a few hundred yards to two or three miles in\nbreadth, and their high, bold shores, fringed by the little\nnarrow beach of sand and pebbles, with alternating bays\nand capes, give beautiful views. The railway crosses one\nof these arms by a drawbridge at Sicamous Narrows, and\nthen goes for a long distance along the southern shores of\nthe lake, running entirely around the end of the Salmon\narm.\" Sicamous is the station for the Spallumsheen\nmining district and other regions up the river and around\nOkanagan Lake, where there is a large settlement; steamboats ascend the river thirty miles, and a railway is proposed. \" For fifty miles the line winds in and out the\nbending shores, while geese and ducks fly over the waters,\nand light and shadow play upon the opposite banks. This\nlake, with its bordering slopes, gives a fine reminder of\nScottish scenery. The railway in getting around it leads\nat different and many times towards every one of the Mi\nft\nllul\nistii\nllr5 III',\nI ill L\n140 California and Alaska.\nthirty-two points of the compass. Leaving the Salmon\narm of the lake rather than go a circuitous course around\nthe mountains to reach the southwestern arm, the line\nstrikes through the forest over the top of the intervening\nridge [Notch Hill]. We come out at some 600 feet elevation above this ' arm,' and get a magnificent view across\nthe lake, its winding shores on both sides of the long and\nnarrow sheet of water stretching far on either hand, with\nhigh mountain ridges for the opposite background. The\nline gradually runs downhill until it reaches the level of\nthe water, but here it has passed the lake, which has narrowed into, the [south branch of the] Thompson River.\nThen the valley broadens, and the eye, that has been so\naccustomed to rocks and roughness and the uninhabited\ndesolation of the mountains, is gladdened by the sight of\ngrass, fenced fields, growing crops, hay-stacks, and good\nfarm-houses on the level surface, while herds of cattle,\nsheep, and horses roam over the valley and bordering hills\nin large numbers. This is a ranching country, extending\nfar into the mountain valleys west of the Gold Range on\nboth sides of the railway, and is one of the garden spots\nof British Columbia. . . . The people are comparatively old settlers, having come in from the Pacific coast,\nand it does one's heart good, after having passed the rude\nlittle cabins and huts of the plains and mountains, to see\ntheir neat and trim cottages, with the evidences of thrift\nthat are all around,\"\nMany of our party compared the scenery around Shu-\nswap Lake to the country about Lake George, but the\nlandscape in the former locality is on a very much larger\nand grander scale. Supply or Tote Road, near Spanish\nRiver.\nL 1\nw 1^\n.} i\nMountain Creek Bridge, Containing\n1,300,000 feet Timber, Canadian\nPacific Railway. f\nplfp\nif\nIf i\nHi\n?\u00E2\u0096\u00A0'?\nVJ\nIf\n( f I\n7 ;1\nt h a\nj \u00E2\u0080\u00A2 \ym\n\n\\nfs\nW iTfSrl\nKJll\n1\nlil!\nl fij ft\nill\n! dnffl\nfl 1\nrill I\nCI\n\i\nJ y\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 *.- j\n1*8\nmi i'\nill i\n' From Kamloops to Vancouver.\n*43\nso surprised that, for a few moments, we did not realize\nwhat it was ; it proved to be a large partridge. Had\nany of us been quick enough we might have caught it\nwithout any trouble; as it was, when we attempted to\ncatch it, it flew off into the brush. We stopped the train\nand getting our shot-guns started in pursuit, thinking that\nO\nthere might be other game in the neighborhood, which\nwould have proved a very palatable addition to our larder.\nWe had no success, however, though the little incident\nafforded us considerable diversion.\nAt Lytton, at the confluence of the Thompson and\nFraser rivers, the scenery is very grand. Six miles below\nhere our train crossed the Fraser River, a steel cantilever\nbridge being at that point. The scenery here became\nwilder as the gorge deepened and the size of the river\nincreased. The banks were steep and rugged, their tops\ncovered with a dense growth of trees. The old government road continues along the Fraser River, twisting\nand turning about, now passing under the railroad,\nthen along by its side, sometimes many hundred feet\nabove the road until, at Cisco, it is forced to the height\nof over one thousand feet above the river. It is said\nthat the width of the road here is not sufficient to\nallow two teams to pass, and that it is held in place by\niron rods, or bridge-trusses, inserted in the mountain\nside.\nMr. Marpole informed us that it was not uncommon to\nsee Indians on the projecting rocks down at the water's\nedge spearing salmon, or capturing them with scoop-nets;\nthe salmon are dried on poles and sold to Chinamen. fflli'ffl\n144 California and Alaska.\nill\nAlong the river on the sandy channel piers Chinamen and\nIndians are occasionally seen washing for gold, and many\nof the inhabitants on the banks of the stream gain their\nsubsistence from what little gold they find in washing the\ngravel. They are a lazy, thriftless class of people, washing\nfor gold two or three days in the week, and living on the\nproceeds for the remainder of the time.\nThis road was originally built by the government of\nColumbia for the convenience of miners above Lytton,\nwhere enormous quantities of gold were originally taken\nout by washing. At North Bend we stopped to change\nengines, and all the party got off the train and visited the\nhotel, which is owned by the railroad company ; here we\nsaw another tame brown Canadian bear, which afforded\nthe children great amusement. During the day we\nstopped the train at many points along the Fraser River,\nwhere the line crosses large canyons, on trestles. The\nscenery from North Bend to Yale, twenty-six miles, has\nbeen described as not only intensely interesting, but startling, even \" ferocious.\" The volume of water in the river\nbeing so large, and the walls at the sides coming out close\ntogether, the stream is compressed into a roaring torrent.\nAt Spuzzum the government road crosses the chasm by a\nsuspension bridge, at the side of the railway bridge, and\nkeeps close to it all the way to Yale. Here the railroad\nruns through a series of five or six tunnels. It should be\nstated that this government road has been rendered almost\nabsolutely valueless for wagons, from the fact that, wherever the railroad crosses it, no means have been provided\nfor passing the road, either above or around the railway ;\nI fv Mm\nm\nMl\n^vmss\n'^S'1 Jt Roadway in Stanley Park, Vancouver. \u00C2\u00A5\nII: ii\ni-*.t^\: \*\u00C2\u00BB\ \* haP \u00C2\u00AB**\nr>\\t\c\S\ ! j'\nI rill\ni\n\u00E2\u0080\u0094\u00E2\u0080\u0094\u00E2\u0080\u00A2 From Kamloops to Vancouver.\nH5\npack-trains can now cross, but they are compelled to climb\nsteep trails in order to get around these places.\nYale is at the head of navigation on the Fraser River.\nAt New Westminster Junction there is a branch line to\nthe important town of New Westminster, a town of some\nfive thousand inhabitants, on the Fraser River, about eight\no\nmiles distant. When we passed through here, this road\nwas being constructed to Seattle, and it was expected that\nbefore long through connection by rail could be had with\nthat town.\nWe reached Port Moody, at the head of Burrard Inlet,\nabout two o'clock on the afternoon of May 17th. At one\ntime this was the last station of the railroad, and, on that\naccount, was quite a settlement; but it is now very much\ndilapidated and run down, owing to the terminus having\nbeen removed to Vancouver. As the railroad sweeps\ndown here to the shore, we could once more see the\nPacific coast and salt water, an outlook which was truly\nrefreshing after such a continuous stretch of mountain\nscenery. Snow-tipped mountains were to be seen on the\nopposite side of the inlet, beautiful in outline and color,\nespecially so on the afternoon when we saw them in the\nsunlight. Here and there, at intervals, on the opposite\ncoast, saw-mills and villages were to be seen. At one or\ntwo of the villages there were ocean steam-ships at the\nwharves being loaded with the celebrated Douglas fir,\nwhich is sent to all parts of the world. These trees are\nfound twenty, thirty, and even forty feet in circumference.\nOur speed on this particular day was necessarily slow,\nowing to the fact that this section of the road is considered\n19\n\\\nI ,\n,!,!\n146\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nvery dangerous, and is about the only part on which any\naccidents ever occur; at one moment the road-bed overhangs a river, on trestle-work or embankment, and the\nnext moment enters a short tunnel, only to reappear again\non another trestle.\nAfter our arrival at Vancouver, Mr. Harry Abbott,\nthe General Superintendent of the western end of the\nroad, called upon us with his wife, and extended to us\nthe courtesies of the road at this terminus.\nOn the morning after our arrival we took a carriage\nand drove over the town, going through the new park,\nwhich promises some day to be one of the wonders of the\ncoast. The trees here are enormous, and the growth\no\nmight be called a primeval forest, which it really is, with\nthe underbrush taken out.\nVancouver, the Pacific terminus of the railway, is comparatively a new town, and reminds one of the growth\no\nof such Western towns as Duluth or Great Falls. Until\nMay, 1886, its present site was covered with a dense\nforest. The following July a severe fire swept away every\nhouse in the place but one ; all the buildings now standing\nhave been erected since that date. The hotels, business\nblocks, and residences are of the most approved architecture, and would be a credit to any city in the United\nStates. Large and extensive wharves have been built by\nthe railroad company and private corporations, and the\ntown promises to develop into one of the future cities of\nthe Pacific coast. The paved streets are well laid out, and\nlighted with electricity. A plentiful supply of pure water\nis brought through large pipes, laid across the harbor,\nfrom a spring in the mountains on the other side of the\nII Vancouver, from Canadian Pacific Railway Docks. I\nhc tecmn\n^S^M\"\nAmi)ui\nI II in\nW\n4\nr*.i\nm\nHI 4\t /\ni Ji\nfll\"\n\i\ From Kamloops to Vancouver.\n147\nsound. I The country to the south of Vancouver has many\nfine farms, and is said to be well adapted to fruit-growing.\nMany parties remain here for the shooting and fishing\no o'\nboth of which are excellent, and can be had by making\nshort excursions into the mountains towards the north.\nA regular line of steamers leaves Vancouver every day for\nVictoria, fortnightly for Japan, Yokohama, and Hong\nKong, and twice a week for Seattle, Tacoma, and other\nPuget Sound ports. The city is beautifully located on a\nslight eminence, overlooking the sound, with Burrard\nInlet on the north.\nAbout one o'clock on the afternoon of May 18th, the\nIslander, which had been engaged for our party, steamed\ninto the harbor, having just come from Victoria in the\nmorning. This vessel was a twin propeller boat, two\nhundred and forty feet in length, forty-two feet beam,\nand sixteen feet draught, with tremendous power, and\nwas capable of making about nineteen miles an hour.\nCaptain John Irving, the manager of the line, had\ncharge of the vessel, and our pilot for Alaskan waters\nwas the veteran Captain Carroll, the most celebrated\npilot on the Pacific coast, who was one of the pioneers, and had made one hundred and seventy trips to\nAlaska. He had become very wealthy, and was largely interested in mines, etc. We had also a very old pilot, an\nemploye of the steamship company; from the nautical\npoint of view we considered ourselves very well provided for. The accommodations for passengers were\nample; the boat had about one hundred state-rooms, the\nmanager's room being large and roomy, and the other\napartments very comfortable. Km Wll\ni? s I\nIU\n148 California and Alaska.\nThe greater part of the afternoon was occupied in\nplacing our baggage aboard and in getting thoroughly and\ncomfortably settled. About half-past four o'clock we cast\noff from the wharf and started on our trip to Alaska. The\nweather was all that could be desired, neither too warm nor\ntoo cold, bright and sunny, and a fair omen of the journey\nwe were about to make.\nWe took the cooks and stewards with us, and left the\nrest of the crew on the train. The weather was so fine that\nwe were able to sit on the upper deck until dinner-time,\nand at ten o'clock at night it was light enough for us to\nread a newspaper on deck. The view of Mount Baker,\nwith its snow-capped peak, in the distance about sunset,\nwas magnificent. TA\nMi\nm\nEiiHI\nWnm Fl LfclL H\nlull I\ni\nl'\n^A 'W&fc \35^i \^^\r\ WM\n/ -\nifiii\ni\nIB\nfflFH\n,4 ill\nIN ALASKAN WATERS.\n.1\nCHAPTER XIX.\nON the night of the 18th we sailed through Discovery Passage, where at places there is hardly\nroom for two steamers to pass each other, and\nmountains rise up abruptly on each side. At half-past\nnine on the morning of the 19th we reached Alert Bay,\nand from there steamed on northward, passing the north\nend of Vancouver Island, out into Queen Charlotte Sound.\nAlthough the wind was blowing lightly at the time there\nwas quite a heavy swell; it took us only two hours, however, to go across. We then entered Fitzhugh Sound,\npassing Calvert Island and Hunt Islands. On reaching\nthe end of the channel we left Burke Channel on our\nright, and went through the Lama Passage, passing between Campbell and Lendenny Islands, where the scenery\nwas very fine.\nAbout a quarter before six we arrived at Bella Bella\nand anchored for the night; this is a small fishing village\non Campbell Island. The scenery here was remarkably\ngrand and bold, the passage, in many places, not being\nan eighth of a mile wide, though the water reaches a depth\n149\nI\n\"i\n11, i5o\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nof from one hundred and thirty-one to one hundred and\nfifty fathoms. After supper one of the quarter boats\nwas lowered and Dr. McLane, with two or three of our\nparty, went ashore to call on the agent of the Hudson Bay\nCompany and the missionary. We found that the agent\nwas absent at Vancouver and the missionary was making\na visit to the interior. Bella Bella consists of some forty\nor fifty log-huts occupied by Indians, who gain their subsistence principally by fishing. We were informed that\nmost of the male inhabitants were at work at the canneries, and there were not over five or six men remaining\nin the village. The accompanying picture of Bella Bella\nwas taken about nine o'clock in the evening; the Hudson\nBay Company's store is shown on the left, and the church\nand the missionary's house on the right.\nWhile crossing Milbank Sound the next morning, we\nfelt the motion of the sea quite considerably. It commenced raining in the morning and rained nearly all day.\nPassing north of Milbank Sound we took the western\npassage between Swindle and Cone Islands, passing\nnearly through Tolmine Channel, Graham Reach, Fraser\nReach, leaving Princess Royal Island on our left. Nearly\nall the morning, on our right, we passed large water passages, or reaches, up which we could look many miles and\nsee that they were lined on either side by very high and\nprecipitous mountains, perhaps not a quarter of a mile\napart. All the information the captain could give us\nabout these narrow waters was that they were unexplored, and there was no telling how far inland they\nmight extend. Bella Bella, Alaska.\nI\nill\nw\nii\n.'\u00C2\u00AB\nII\nii\nI 11\ni\u00C2\u00A5L\nllili\nagent\nI\ni\nnllf\nMi\nfeou^ og. the^r^ig]\nmm v;r.i\nstliidl -as&mg rffl In Alaskan Waters.\n151\nfl\nPassing through McKay Reach, we entered Wright\nO\nSound. On our right were Douglas Channel and Verney\nPassage ; both these waters have been somewhat explored,\nand extend for many miles back into the country. The\nmountains on both sides of these passages are, according\nto the government chart, from three to five thousand\nfeet high, but, in point of fact, many of these waters have\nnot been explored to any great distance.\nSailing from Wright Sound and going north, we passed\nthrough Grenville Channel, leaving Pitt Island on our\nleft and the Countess of Dufferin range of mountains on\nour right. The mountains on each side of this channel\nare about three thousand feet high, and are very heavily\ntimbered with evergreens. The scenery was picturesque\nin the extreme.\nIn the afternoon we passed through the Arthur Passage\n(Kennedy Island being on our right) and through Chatham Sound. As we passed through the sound the weather\ncommenced to clear and before long the sun came out.\nBearing to our right we arrived at Port Simpson at half-\npast six o'clock. This is a Hudson Bay post, the last\nEnglish post before entering Alaska, and we found it to\nbe one of the most interesting we had seen for some time.\nThe Hudson Bay Company's agent, whom we met, was\na very genial person ; he invited us up to the company's\nstore, and showed us all over the premises. The main\nstore is built of logs, and was constructed some sixty years\nago ; part of the old stockade is still standing, and on one\ncorner of it, up in the air, is one of the old turrets, the\nsides having slits for musketry, which were to be used by\n1,1 :C<\ni52\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nv\\nthe occupants to defend themselves against the Indians.\nThe old powder magazine was built of stone, and is now\nused by the Hudson Bay officer for a dairy.\nThe agent had all sorts of goods in his store. We\nbought some Winchester rifle cartridges, of which we were\na little short, and some very old-fashioned spoons carved\nout of horn. We looked over a stock of skins and furs,\nbut did not buy any. The steward took this opportunity\nto lay in a supply of fresh milk and eggs.\nThe agent told us that the climate in this section is\nexceedingly agreeable throughout the year, although the\nplace is in the latitude of 540 35'; he said that the flowers\nin his garden blossomed in January. Every thing surrounding the company's store was in the most admirable\norder; the stockade and buildings were all neatly whitewashed, the grass carefully trimmed, and the walks free\nfrom weeds. At one time Port Simpson was one of the\nmost important posts of the Hudson Bay Company, but of\nlate years it has become a very insignificant place. The\nIndian village outside of the walls of the post is very\nsmall, and in a very poor and needy condition.\nThe prices paid for furs by the Hudson Bay Company\nare, of course, higher now than they were some twenty or\nthirty years ago, and the profits on them are very much\nless. On the other hand, it must be taken into consideration that it was formerly necessary to keep at least six or\nten armed men here all the time to defend the post against\nthe Indians, and further, that supplies can be landed here\nnow at one tenth of the price charged for them thirty years\nago. The agent told us that he thought the company Floating Ice, near Muir Glacier I\nlit\nV i\ni; IV IF In Alaskan Waters.\n!53\nmade as much out of the post as formerly, owing to the\ndecreased cost of running the station, which he believed\nmore than offset the lower price obtained for the furs.\nAbout half-past three o'clock on the morning of May\n21 st we left Port Simpson and entered upon the Alaskan\nTerritory, passing on our left Annette and Gravina islands.\nIn the afternoon we entered Wrangel Narrows, leaving on\nour right, some thirty miles away, Fort Wrangel, on Wrangel Island. This was one of the prettiest spots we had\nyet seen. The hills on either side of the Narrows were\nnot so remarkably high, but the shores were exceedingly\npicturesque, and looked as though they were covered with\na great deal of vegetation. There is thick, rich, green\ngrass on both sides, above high-water mark. We saw here\na great many ducks and geese, and a countless number\nof eagles. After passing through Wrangel Narrows we\nentered Frederick Sound, a beautiful sheet of water, and\non our right saw, for the first time, Patterson's Glacier,\nand also a large amount of floating ice. It was about dark\nO O\nwhen we passed this glacier. No one point in all our journey through this Sitkan Archipelago seemed invested by\nnature with so much grandeur as Prince Frederick Sound.\nHere the mountains of the mainland run down abruptly to\nthe water. The scenery in this wilderness of Lower Alaska\nwas certainly unique and unrivalled. At one time our\nship was in a lake, at another in a river, and then in a\ncanal, with walls towering above us right and left to an\nalmost dizzy height, and channels running off into unknown\nand unexplored regions. And yet, upon this vast expanse\nof water a sail or boat rarely is seen. There is a deathly\n20 ft\\n1/f; M\nI\n154 California and Alaska.\nstillness, interrupted now and then by the screech of an\neagle, or the flight of ducks frightened at the approach of\nthe vessel. At the head of these channels are countless\nravines and canyons filled with glaciers, from which pieces\nare constantly broken every day. It is estimated that\nthere are five thousand individual glaciers in Alaska, from\nwhich, constantly, pieces are broken and silently find their\nway down to the sea.\nOn the morning of May 2 2d we woke as the boat was\nabout entering Peril Straits, an intricate part of the waters\nto navigate, but pretty well buoyed out. The scenery\nfrom here to Sitka, where we arrived about half-past nine\no'clock in the morning, was exceedingly fine. This place,\nthe capital of Alaska, is an old Russian settlement, and\nwas, at one time, a prosperous and lively town ; at present it has the appearance of a half-sleepy, indolent village,\ngiving one the impression of general decay. As the boat\nnears the wharf a cluster of buildings is seen to the right ;\no o\nthe buildings are the Castle, the Custom-house, and Barracks. This Castle of Barranore was once celebrated for\nthe lavish hospitality of its occupants,\u00E2\u0080\u0094elegant dinners\nand extravagant balls; to-day it is a dilapidated-looking\nbuilding of large size. Notwithstanding its absolute\nneglect and abandonment to decay and ruin, it was so\nsubstantially built that it will be years before it will disappear entirely. All Americans who travel in this section\nwonder why our government does not put it in repair, and\nuse it for the government headquarters, as such a building\nis badly needed. The Castle is one hundred and forty\nby seventy feet, and is three stories high. As a rule, the\nUnited States keeps a war vessel here during the summer Lincoln Street, East, Sitka, Alaska.\n1\n1\nis\n! 3 1 I\nI VI\n;> n In Alaskan Waters.\n05\nmonths ; at the time of our visit she was at Mare Island\nNavy Yard undergoing repairs and Lieutenant Turner\nwas in charge of the forty marines, who were temporarily\nlocated in the old barracks.\nAlaska has been in the possession of the United States\nsince October 18, 1867. The country was bought through\nJ O o\nnegotiations carried on by William H. Seward, who was\nat that time Secretary of State. The wits of the period\nmade merry over the acquisition, just as wits in former\ndays made merry over our acquisition of Louisiana and\nFlorida. Secretary Seward justified his action on the\nground of the new country's natural wealth in timber,\nfisheries, minerals, and fur-bearing animals ; also on the\nground that it would neutralize the power of Great Britain\nin the North Pacific and render the annexation of British\nColumbia possible in the future. \" Alaska,\" said he,\n\" may not be so valuable as we deem it ; but you cannot\ndeny the value of the gold regions of the Cariboo country\nand Fraser River, the coal mines of Vancouver's and\nQueen Charlotte's islands, and the unrestricted possession\nof the magnificent Straits of Fuca. All these, following\nmanifest destiny, will be ours in time ; besides,\" said he,\n\" we owe a deep debt of gratitude to Russia for her\nunvarying friendship through long years, and for her\nkindly sympathy during the sorest of our national trials\n\u00E2\u0080\u0094the great rebellion.\" The sum of $7,200,000 was paid\nfor Alaska, and it is estimated that the few mines near\nJuneau are worth more than that sum to-day.\nThe Governor of Alaska, Hon. A. P. Swineford, has\nmade interesting reports in regard to the resources and\nprospects of this new and remarkable country. He says\n1\nfl 156 California and Alaska.\nthat two years ago the population was estimated at about\nfifty thousand inhabitants ; of this number thirty-five thousand were classed as wholly uncivilized. Very little has\nbeen accomplished in the way of agricultural development.\nHere and there a ranch has been started for the growing\nof root-crops, while in nearly all the settlements vegetable\ngardens are maintained with very little labor. There are\nlarge areas of excellent grazing lands in the Territory, but\nvery little has been done in the way of stock-raising. At\nnearly all the settlements on the Kodiak Islands and in\nCook's Inlet white and Creole people keep cows and make\ntheir own butter; the Governor sees no reason, except the\nabsence of a market, why Alaska might not rival Montana\nor Wyoming in the raising of stock. The great island of\nKodiak comprises a geographical area of about five thousand square miles. Considerable progress has been made\nin the development of the mineral resources of the Territory, There is a large stamp-mill on Douglas Island, the\nlargest plant of the kind in the world, its output of gold\nbullion being estimated at not less than $150,000 per\nmonth. New discoveries of valuable mines are constantly\nbeing made, especially in Southeastern Alaska.\nIt is pretty well established that other minerals besides\ngold and silver are abundant in various parts of the Territory. A large vein of very rich copper ore has been\nfound on Kodiak Island, and large bodies of the same\nmetal in its native state are known to exist on Copper\nRiver. Petroleum is found in different sections, while at\nCape Prince of Wales, the most westerly point of the\ncontinent, there is a plentiful supply of graphite in the Indian Chiefis Grave, Alaska.\n=*\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 Jl I\nM'f\nII\n.\u00C2\u00AB&'-' i\nmicai area oout n\ni(3ra^S^Sg3-^^fc^ke>\nMI fe In Alaskan Waters.\n0/\nadjoining mountains. Amber exists in large quantities,\nand sulphur is found in connection with the numerous\nvolcanic peaks and extinct craters. Discoveries of iron\ncinnabar, and mica are recorded. Marble abounds ; there\nis every evidence of the existence of valuable slate beds ;\nfire-clay is found in connection with the coal seams; and\nkaolin is among the discoveries reported. There is said\nto be coal enough in Alaska, and of the very best quality,\nto supply the wants of the whole of the Pacific slope for\ncenturies, and it is prophesied that the time will soon come\nwhen the product of her mines will find other and wider\nmarkets than those of the Pacific coast alone. There are\nvast forests of valuable timber in the back country, but\nthere are not more than half-a-dozen saw-mills engaged\nO O\nin cutting lumber, and they only partially supply the local\ndemand.\nThe fisheries of Alaska form an important industry.\nThere are seventeen salmon canneries in operation, some\nof them very large establishments, and nearly all having\nsalting houses in connection. The codfishing fleet is\nsteadily increasing, and halibut is being sent to Eastern\ncities in refrigerator cars. In 1888 twelve thousand tons\nof salmon were prepared for the market. The fur trade\nis also an important industry.\nThere are thirteen public schools in the Territory,\nlocated respectively at the principal towns, and the Industrial Training School at Sitka is in a flourishing\ncondition, though not accomplishing, it is said, all that\nmight reasonably be expected ; the boys are taught carpentry and cabinet-, boot-, and shoe-making, while girls\nA\nI; if II'\n1 f\nIII (I\n158 California and Alaska.\nare instructed in housekeeping, sewing, knitting) cooking, and dressmaking.\nThe average rainfall in Sitka and its immediate\nneighborhood is about forty-eight inches ; about one third\nof the year there is no rain. The weather is not very\ncold in winter, the thermometer rarely reaching zero on\nthe coast. The mean temperature for the year is about\nforty-four degrees. January and February have the lowest record\u00E2\u0080\u0094290 2 ; August highest\u00E2\u0080\u009456\u00C2\u00B0 4'. Ice rarely\nforms to a thickness of six inches, and yet in summer the\nweather is not warm enough to ripen any grain. The\nmonths of June and July are generally clear, dry, and free\nfrom rain. The fall and spring are the rainy seasons.\nThe comparatively mild temperature in this high latitude\nis accounted for by the existence of a great current of\nwarm water, resembling our Gulf Stream, which, sweeping\nalong the coasts of Japan and Asia to the northeast,\ncrosses the Pacific, and washes the northwest coast of\nAmerica as far down as the Bay of Panama, where it\nagain diverges to the westward and forms the great\nequatorial current of the Pacific.\nAt the head of Cross Sound are five large glaciers\nO O\nthat are formed far back in the country on the slopes of\nMount Fairweather and Mount Crillon, the former 14,708\nfeet high, the latter 13,400.\nThe remarkable indentation and almost endless length\nof this coast, the thousand islands, the immense number\nof mountains large and small, the maze of rivers through\nwhich the traveller passes, make this journey incomparable with any other which could be made. We had often Russian Block-House, Sitka, Alaska.\nit\nI\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 ti\nii\nw\nIf\n\u00C2\u00A3 -ream,wnicn, swe<\n:^Y-& .^^^%\u00C2\u00A5fi-4^&% to&simmSkh\n. i\n\u00C2\u00BB\n* i\nft\nI m\nf\n5|lf\nW PI if In Alaskan Waters.\n159\nheard about the wonders of a trip to Alaska, but were\nmore than surprised at the remarkable character of the\nscenery we saw, especially the water-ways, which the writer\nhas deemed worthy of being so fully described.\n11 Bill\n\u00C2\u00BB\u00C2\u00AB\nIf\nCHAPTER XX.\nIN ALASKAN WATERS (concluded).\nPROBABLY the most interesting feature of life in\nthe vicinity of Sitka is the Indian village a short\ndistance outside of the town ; Lieutenant J. E.\nTurner was kind enough to show our party through this\nsettlement, which was certainly very unique.\nAfter entering an old gate we turned to the left and\nO O\npassed in front of a long row of cheaply built houses\nfronting on the beach, the canoes and fishing paraphernalia belonging to each hut being drawn up on the\nbeach in front thereof. Each house is numbered, and\nthe village is under the strict surveillance of an officer of\nthe Navy. As we had found at Bella Bella, most of the\nIndians were off fishing or engaged in work at the can-\nneries; in the winter, when they are all at home, the\npopulation numbers about eight hundred, and the town\nthen presents quite a lively appearance.\nIt may be well to mention here a certain peculiar kind\nof fish which is quite plentiful in Alaskan waters ; it is\ncalled the candle-fish, and is about the size of a smelt,\nwhich it resembles in appearance, being small and havin\n160\nor\n&\n!fl Scene in Indian Town, Sitka, Alaska. IU1\nMi\nin *\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\nlit mil I\ni I\n.fc&uAK ;i#KS :0k&*\nd$$t\n-^\t\n-j I\nt>m\n**mm I 111\nlm\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2!f-\nM\\\n' 'r J In Alaskan Waters.\n161\nbright silvery skin and scales. It is caught by the Indians\non bright moonlight nights. They use for this purpose a\nlarge rake, some six or seven feet long, with teeth of bone\nor sharp-pointed nails. This rake has a handle, and while\none Indian paddles the canoe close to the \" shoal of fish,\"\nthe other sweeps the rake through the dense mass, bringing up generally three or four fish impaled on each tooth\nof the rake. The canoes are soon filled, and the contents\nbeing taken on shore, the squaws proceed to skewer the\nfish on long sticks, passing these sticks through the eyes\nuntil each one has as many as it will hold, when the whole\nare suspended in the thick, smoky atmosphere at the top\nof the hut, which dries and preserves the fish without salt,\nwhich is never used by the Indians.\nWhen dry, the candle-fish are carefully packed away in\nboxes of dried bark. The traders at Fort Simpson catch\nthese fish in nets, salt and dry them in the usual manner\npractised by the whites ; and, when this is properly done\nno fish are more delicious than the candle-fish, the only\ntrouble being that they are so rich that one soon tires of\nthem.\nTo use them as candles, a piece of wick or dried pith\nis passed through the fish with a bodkin of hard wood, and\nthe tail being inserted in a cleft-stick or junk-bottle, the\nwick is lighted. The fish burns with a clear, steady flame.\nIn point of wealth and power, after a few Indian chiefs,\nthe most important person in the village is Mrs. Tom,\na woman of great importance and influence among the\nnatives. She is worth about $40,000, and, in that section\nof the country at least, is considered a wealthy woman.\n21\nI) i\n1\n. {\n'if\n11\n1\nL\ni ii\n162 California and Alaska.\nWe made her a visit, and found her not only willing to\nexhibit to us her large collection of curiosities, but anxious\nto part with many of them for a proper pecuniary consideration. Her house consists of three rooms, one of them\nvery large. At the time Lieutenant Turner and our party\nmade our visit she was not presentable, but called out to\nus that we should amuse ourselves by looking over her\nfurs until she could prepare her toilet. She was not long\nin making her appearance, when she opened her trunks,\nsearched in various recesses, and brought forth any number of trinkets and curious articles, which she offered for\nsale. We made a number of purchases, including some\nvery fine otter skins and a Chilcot blanket. We were told\nthat she left the settlement for the Aleutian Islands every\nyear in a large boat well stocked with provisions and articles that she knows will be appreciated by the Indians;\nthese she trades away for rich furs and curiosities which\nshe knows she can readily sell to the Americans who visit\nSitka. These journeys sometimes keep her away for three\nmonths at a time.\nMrs. Tom's ideas of matrimony are certainly very\nliberal; she has almost any number of husbands, but rarely\nkeeps one over two or three years, when she discharges\nhim and purchases a new one. After we had made the\npurchases from her we requested her to send the articles\nto the steamer and we would pay the money to the husband who brought the package. She evidently had a very\npessimistic opinion of man's honesty, for she quickly replied\nthat, as the amount due was quite a large sum, she wished,\nif we had no objections, that we would pay her \" cash\n11\n11\nBf\n[;|| ii\nL\nJill Indian River Canyon, from 1 Pint a\"\nAnchorage.\nnm\n'.!\n!i\n=5= ;i ;H\n%WS\u00C2\u00ABM^ Ill\nI\nY I\nm 3\nV\nIP\nfl\n1\n^\nIII\nI m\nfjjj lulllj\nlillil\n.u M\nIn Alaskan Waters.\n163\ndown \" on the spot, saying that she would feel easier than\nif she had to wait for one of her husbands to bring it back\nO\nto her.\nWhile this book is going through the press the writer\nhas noticed some curious statements in a New York journal on the polyandrous women of Alaska. A member of\nan expedition that is surveying the boundary line between\nAlaska and Canada says that he has met tribes on the\nupper Yukon River where it is not uncommon for the\nwomen to have two or more husbands. This custom also\nprevails in Eastern Thibet and among the Mongols of the\nTsaidam. It is accounted for by the fact that, on account\nof the barren nature of the soil and the general poverty of\nthe people the brothers in a family will agree to have only\none wife among them; while one brother is absent on a\ntrading journey another remains at home and looks after\nthe live stock, the \" mutual wife\" managing the household. Among the Alaskan Eskimo a man is entitled to\nas many wives as he can get, but in parts of the country\nwhere women are scarce two or more men live in a hut\nwith one woman. It is. stated that polygamy is only practised among rich and prosperous savages, while polyandry\nis practised by the poorer peoples, from necessity rather\nthan choice.\nAfter lunch we stopped a few moments at Lieutenant\nTurner's rooms and then visited the Presbyterian Mission,\nwhere we saw the Shepard workshop, established by Mr.\nand Mrs. Shepard when they were here two years ago.\nWe were much interested in the old Greek Church,\na sketch of which is given. It is a rather gaudily deco-\n:\ni\nii\u00C2\u00BB\n\u00C2\u00A5 If\nII\n164 California and Alaska.\nrated building, painted in green and gold after the Eastern\nfashion, with magnificent regalia and appointments for its\nrather lengthy but imposing service. Some of the old\nhouses presented a very quaint and time-worn appearance ;\nthe one shown in the accompanying sketch is probably\nsome hundreds of years old. While we were here the boys\nof the party had very good luck fishing off the bows of the\nboat, catching some very fine black bass and halibut. The\nfishing and deer-shooting in this vicinity are said to be\nvery good.\nThe Russian-American Company, once such an important factor in Alaskan life, commenced its existence in\n1799 and was formed on the same plan as the Hudson\nBay Company; a body of Russians traders and merchants,\nhowever, had existed long before that date. Between 1812\nand 1841 the Russians had settlements in California, at\nRoss and Bodega, and they named the principal stream in\nthat part of the country Russian River. In the latter year\nCaptain Sutter, the famous Californian, purchased the\ncompany's settlement for $30,000, which was finally abandoned when it was found more convenient to purchase\nfrom the Hudson Bay Company on Vancouver Island.\nIt is said that when the Russians occupied Sitka their\nhouses were not models of cleanliness. Some of them\nwere in the habit of keeping poultry in the rooms over\nthe sleeping-chamber, and as the little windows were never\nopened except at long intervals the odor was not very captivating. Pigs and goats at that time were allowed to\nroam the streets at their own sweet will and took full\nadvantage of their unrestricted liberty. Favorite Bay, \"Home of the Herring^\nKillisnoo.\ny\nn\n1\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A01\nI\nA M w\n^= \u00C2\u00A3^_ '-, y\n1 \u00C2\u00BB Hi Iff If\n1\nI\nm\n: mi f\nI ] In Alaskan Waters.\ni6\u00C2\u00AB\nWe left Sitka on the afternoon of the 22d of May.\nAll the acquaintances we had made begged us to remain\nover until the next day, promising that they would arrange\nan Indian war-dance in the evening, but our time being\nlimited we were obliged to take our departure. The\nmission band came down to the dock and gave us a sere-\nnade just before we sailed away. We ran until about\ndark, when we entered Peril Straits and anchored in Fish\nBay for the night.\nAt three o'clock on the following morning, May 23d,\nwe left Fish Bay in Peril Straits, passed through the\nrapids, and out into the open sound, bound for Glacier\nBay. We went through Chatham Strait, leaving Admiralty Island on our right, going around Port Augusta, and\npassing by Port Frederick, Port Adolphus, and Bartlett.\nThe waters in this region are totally unexplored. After\nwe entered Chatham Strait bound for the north, Captain\nCarroll remained in the pilot-house, as there were no\nsoundings, and he was the only man on board who had\never been through these waters before. We were constantly\nmeeting large floes of ice, and the vessel had to cut\n00 7\nthrough them. Some of the icebergs must have been\nfully three or four hundred feet square, and of proportionate mass.\nAt this time the weather was exceedingly disagreeable ; the wind was cold, and a fine mist was falling all the\ntime. The climatic conditions, combined with the bleak-\nlooking appearance of the country, devoid of all vegetation, was any thing but cheerful, but it helped us to realize\nwhat a dreary and desolate journey a trip to the Arctic\nJl\nm\nM)L 166 California and Alaska.\nregions must be. As our vessel was built entirely of\nsteel, we were, of course, obliged to exercise unusual care\nin sailing ; if we had run on a rock, or into an iceberg, it\nwould probably have made a hole in her, and sunk her at\nonce. This was one of the first iron vessels that had ever\nbeen through these waters ; Captain Carroll remarked,\nhowever, that he felt very much safer with a good wooden\nvessel, because in case she sprung a leak he would be able\nto patch it up. We had rain almost steadily from the\ntime we started, though now and then the weather would\nclear up for an hour or so. As it was almost impossible\nto go out on deck, we were forced to amuse ourselves in\nthe cabin by playing cards and backgammon for hours at\na time.\nIn the afternoon, as we neared the Muir Glacier, we\nmet large fields of floating ice. As we travelled towards\nthe north the scenery changed entirely ; there were no signs\nof vegetation to be seen, the whole surrounding country\nwas one mass of rocks, while the waters were dotted with\nbarren and desolate islands. We arrived at the Great\nGlacier about four o'clock in the afternoon. We ran up\nvery close, then drifted back, and threw out anchor on the\neast shore. A boat was lowered, and some of the party\nwent ashore, and walked up over the glacier. At ten o'clock\nat night the writer took a photograph of the glacier, from\nwhich Mr. Gifford has made the etching given herewith.\no o\nPieces of this icy mountain were falling away repeatedly,\nthe noise of their falling being similar to the sound of heavy\nartillery. During the whole of this particular afternoon\nthere was not a period of five minutes during which we did Mr\nProof\nETCHING\nMuir Glacier, Alaska.\nBy R. SWAIN GIFFORD.\nw\nKlfM\ni tl'fi\nHillll\nill I)\n/\nm 1; In Alaskan Waters.\n167\nnot see or hear large pieces of ice falling, the masses\nbeing so large sometimes that they caused the vessel\nto rock.\nWe anchored at this point all night, leaving about half-\npast three o'clock the following morning, as soon as we\ncould see. We travelled south to Ainsley Island ; here,\ninstead of going down through Chatham Strait, as we did\nwhen we came up, we turned around and went north,\ntowards Lynn Channel, bearing off sharply to our right\nround Admiralty Island, going through Stevens' Passage,\nthen back again between Douglas Island and the mainland to Port Douglas. We arrived at Douglas about two\no'clock in the afternoon. It had rained steadily all day,\nand we had not been able to see any of the mountains ;\nat times the fog was dangerously thick.\nAfter tying up at the wharf, our party went through\nthe celebrated Treadwell Mine, which has the largest\nstamp-mill in the world ; it is owned principally by Mr.\nD. O. Mills, and some gentlemen of San Francisco.\nWe passed through a tunnel into the mountain, and\nentered the mine. The ore is all of a low grade, and is\nworth about ten dollars per ton. It is taken out by the\nuse of Sargent drills worked by compressed air. The ore\nis quarried the same as any ordinary stone, after which it\nis all put into the crusher, and then into the stamp-mill.\nWe spent two hours in this mine, after which we went\nacross to Juneau, where we were obliged to fill the tank of\nour steamer with water. We remained there until seven\no'clock in the evening. Juneau enjoys the distinction of\nbeing one of the dirtiest towns we had yet seen. The\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0a\nI\n%\nf*\nl\ *r\ntil\n1/\ni if\nMilk\n168 California and Alaska.\nplace was full of people, one hundred and sixty having\narrived on the last trip of the Ancon, drawn to the locality\non account of the great mining excitement which existed\nthere at the time. Only a few days before we arrived, a\nparty struck, about thirty miles south of the town, a rich\nsilver ore, which assayed $160 per ton. While at Juneau,\nat the special request of a young lady in New York,\nwho is much interested in the work, we called upon\nMiss Matthews, who is in charge of the Presbyterian\nMission here. While making this call we saw a young\nbear cub in the street; we purchased it, and had it taken\non board the boat, where it greatly amused the children.\nWe left the dock at half-past three in one of the\nheaviest rains we had so far seen. A short distance from\nhere we passed Bishop's Point, and if we had had more\ntime would have turned off into Taku Inlet, and sailed up\nto a very large glacier which is at the head of it. As we\npassed through Stevens' Passage we left Holcomb's Bay on\nour left. The old pilot we had on board told us that some\ntwenty years ago, while he was sailing in this vicinity as\nmate on a vessel, the ship anchored here one night and\ndid some trading with the Indians. There was some misunderstanding between the captain and the chief of the\ntribe, and the captain, in some way, insulted the Indians.\nThat night the savages boarded the ship, and, taking possession, completely stripped her, the crew barely escaping\nwith their lives.\nAt nine o'clock, on the morning of Saturday, May 25th,\nthe clouds broke away as we were entering Prince Fred-\n\u00C2\u00A5 O\nerick Sound, coming through Stevens' Passage from\n11\n\.\n\u00E2\u0080\u0094\"'\n\u00E2\u0080\u0094.11 1\nfuneau (Alaska) and Harbor. I\nIV USl&iSljsLi.\nf\nI\nS\nV\n/ A\nfl IE\n*W,\nh\nI Indian Village, Alert Bay, Alaska.\nm\n\\x\nm\nt*f{\u00C2\u00ABi\nw\n*f\n.V'fci\nIff\nhi\ni\ni n.\nj %\n\u00C2\u00BBkt\u00C2\u00A3\n%\n% !W\nIF \m In Alaskan Waters.\nJuneau. We here retraced our steps through Wrangel\nNarrows, and, after leaving the narrows, bore off to our\nleft for Fort Wrangel. In the sunshine on this day the\ncountry looked beautiful, and it was the first opportunity\nwe had had for many days to take a really good photograph.\nOn our arrival at Fort Wrangel, at half-past one, every\none went ashore. The town consists of about forty or\nfifty Indian houses, two missions and stores, and two or\nthree houses in which a few white people live. Fort\nWrangel is chiefly celebrated for its totem poles, of which\nthe accompanying sketch will give a very good idea, as\nit will also of the street and stores. We understood that\nthere was a large cannery about thirty miles north of this\nplace, but we did not have time to visit it.\nAfter spending an hour and a half on shore, we started\non our way to Vancouver. The bear which we obtained at\nJuneau proved to be a great source of pleasure to the\nchildren. He grew tame very rapidly, and became quite a\npet.\nSunday, May 26th, was the first really pleasant day we\nhad had since leaving Vancouver, more than a week\nbefore. As already stated, we had had an hour or two of\nsunlight at times, but this particular Sunday was lovely\nfrom beginning to end; there was not only an absence of\nrain, but the weather was so mild that we were all able to\nsit on the deck throughout the entire day. On the same\nevening, however, as we were crossing Charlotte Sound,\nabout half-way over, it began to rain very hard, and by\neight o'clock it became so thick that we had difficulty in\n22 ,'ff I\n\\\n114\nill\nffi\nI\nIi \u00E2\u0080\u00A2\n170\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nfinding our way into the narrows beyond. We looked\nforward eagerly to our arrival at Vancouver the following\nday, as we expected to find there mail and telegrams ; for\nthe ten preceding days we had had no chance of receiving\nany communication from our friends.\n[ii\ni\u00C2\u00BBi/1\nJj\ 1\n1\n}\nMjlhij\njLu iii\nLl\n.s 519\nWrangel, Alaska.\nm\nIv*i #.''\nw\nii! If\ni\n1 tv\n\i I\n'I h\nCHAPTER XXI.\nVICTORIA\u00E2\u0080\u0094WINNIPEG\u00E2\u0080\u0094HUNTING EXPERIENCES.\nWE arrived at Vancouver about five o'clock on the\nafternoon of Monday, May 27th, and found\nthere a large number of mail-bags, telegrams,\nand packages awaiting us. We remained until eight\no'clock, removing our spare baggage and attending to\nnecessary correspondence, when we left for Victoria, which\nwe reached, after a pleasant run, during the night.\nAfter breakfast, in the morning, we went to the office of\nthe Northern Pacific Express Company, and found there\ntwo lost mail-bags, which we should have received at\nLake Pend d'Oreille. In the morning we took a drive\naround the town ; in the afternoon some of the party took\na steam launch and made a trip to Esquimalt and the\nEnglish naval depot, while the rest drove over there in\ncarriages. The roads on the island are excellent, being\nmacadamized as they are in England. A number of\nEnglish men-of-war are stationed here, among them some\nof the latest and most approved ironclads.\n.Victoria is the capital of British Columbia, and is in the\nsouthern part of Vancouver Island. From the city one\n171\nOr\nm\nr\nm\nrv\nw\n14\nB NI\n172\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nmm\ny\nmi\nmmm\nhas a fine view of the Olympia Mountains, just across the\nstraits in Oregon, and, to the east, snow-capped Mount\nBaker. There is one railway on the island, and it leads to\nthe mountains, the coal-fields, and to the harbor of Nanaimo. Fine deposits of anthracite coal are said to exist\nin the far interior of the western portion of the island.\nDuring the summer months a steamer leaves Victoria\no\nevery two weeks for Alaska. The climate is much like\nthat of the south of England.\nOn our return from Esquimalt we all met at the Islander, and through the courtesy of Captain Irving enjoyed\na sail up the \" Arm,\" a beautiful inlet from the sea, both\nshores of which are lined with handsome villas, occupied\nby wealthy residents of Victoria.\nWe returned to the boat in time for dinner, and immediately afterward started for Vancouver. Instead of\nfollowing a direct route we ran around to Esquimalt\nHarbor, and sailed in among the English ironclads, thus\ngetting a very good view of the fleet.\nOur trip on the steamer Islander was charming and\nwas thoroughly enjoyed, much of our pleasure being due to\nthe kindness and courtesy of Captains Carroll and Irving,\nboth of whom took special pains to describe the various\npoints we visited. During the ten days we were on\nboard the steamer, our life was comfortable in the\nextreme. There was no part of the boat which we were\nnot welcome to visit, and most of the men, when not\nbelow with the ladies, spent the greater part of their\ntime in Captain Irving's apartment, or in the pilothouse.\n91\nw\njij/ if I; J\nl-ar\nI\nilk\n[1.1\n1\nFraser Canyon, showing Four Tunnels\nabove Spuzzum, Canadian\nPacific Railwy. mn\nn\nii1\nm\nm\nif\nIlr\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 .^:v/\ \u00E2\u0080\u00A2 . v:^5\nWl If 1*1 **\u00E2\u0096\u00A0>\nHunting Experiences.\n16\nAlthough we thoroughly appreciated the grandeur,\nmagnificence, and novelty of the scenery we had witnessed\nduring our ten days in Alaskan waters, yet we were all\nquite agreed that weird, strange, and grand though it\nmight be, it did not begin to equal what we had seen\non the Canadian Pacific road near Mount Stephen when\nwe crossed the Rockies, or Mount Macdonald when we\njourneyed over the Selkirks.\nOn our return to Vancouver, on the morning of May\n29th, we found our special train backed down upon the\nwharf, ready to receive us for our homeward trip. Every\nthing was immediately transferred from the boat to the\ncars. We had intended stopping over at Shuswap Lake\nto fish, but we received word from Mr. Marpole that the\nflies and mosquitoes were biting faster than the fish ; he informed us it would be better to continue directly to Banff.\nOur train really looked better now than on the day we\nstarted from New York; the trucks of the cars had all\nbeen overhauled and painted. Mr. Abbott did all he\npossibly could for our comfort.\nThe ride up the Fraser River Canyon was extremely\ninteresting ; the scenery seemed to be even more beautiful\nthan it did the day we journeyed down. We arrived at\nthe junction of the Thompson and Fraser rivers about\nthree o'clock in the afternoon, and reached Kamloops\nLake about seven o'clock, just as we were about sitting\ndown to dinner. None of us before had realized what a\nbeautiful sheet of water this is. We reached Kamloops\nabout nine o'clock, where Mr. Marpole and his master\nmechanic met us.\nIP\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0>y\nhis\n1 \u00C2\u00A5\nfvlf\naif;I/\nt\nmm\nm\n174 California and Alaska.\nAs it rained very hard on the morning of May 30th,\nwe abandoned our intention of going to the Glacier, and\nrode directly through to Banff. As we passed through we\nwere unable to see Mount Macdonald owing to the fog\nand mist hanging over it; but the scenery going up from\nMacdonald, alongside of the Kicking Horse Canyon to the\nsummit underneath Mount Stephen, seemed to us even\ngrander than it did on our outward trip. We arrived\nat Banff about four o'clock, where we took carriages and\ndrove to the Hot Springs, and afterwards to the Hotel\nBanff, which is kept by the Canadian Pacific Railway.\nHere we had an excellent dinner, after which we walked\nto the Bow River and then back to the cars in the\nevening.\nBanff is a station for the Rocky Mountain Park of\nCanada. This park is twenty-six miles long, about ten wide,\nand embraces the valleys of the Bow, Spray, and Cascade\nrivers, Devil's-Head Lake, and many mountains beyond.\nThe hotel here is kept by the railroad company in the\nfinest and most approved style. It was as good as any\nhotel we stopped at on our journey, almost equalling the\nhotel at Monterey. The building is beautifully located\non the side of the mountain overlooking the Bow River\nValley, is supplied with every modern convenience and\nluxury that one could wish for, and is kept open during\nthe entire year. A photograph of the view from the\nhotel is given on another page.\nMany excursions are made from here into the mountains by sportsmen, who can readily obtain the horses and\ncamping outfits necessary for a two or three weeks'\nil \u00C2\u00BB Hotel Banff, Canadian National Park,\nCanadian Pacific Railway. I\nm\A\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0J'if III\nmmv.\n1 It\ni\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 I\nfinest and most iDDroved\n:it)g the B<\nand\nfpent-.^^^il;;\nnote\n)F h rUfj\nHii\nI mm\nView from Banff Hotel, Looking down\nBow Valley, Canadian Pacific\nRailway.\nh\nfffiT\nIHtf\nKH\nm\nfir\nP j\n1\nit\n\u00C2\u00AB\u00C2\u00AB\ni\ni I\ni 1\n\"\u00C2\u00AB^8k ^i^l^toA^. '\^&3, sw& vmV^l i f.\nWl\nIf\n%\nfeft \u00E2\u0096\u00A0 , ' Hunting Experiences.\n175\nsojourn. The mountains surrounding Banff average in\nheight from seven to ten thousand feet. Devil's-Head\nLake is situated at the very foot of Fairholme Mountains.\nThe illustration of Lake Louise near Laggan, given\nelsewhere, will furnish an excellent idea of the appearance\nof Devil's-Head Lake. It is situated in the very heart of\nsnow-capped mountains, its shores rising perpendicularly\nout of the water with little if any vegetation upon them.\nThe depth of the lake is in proportion to the height of\nthe mountains at its sides. We had heard that very large\ntrout were to be obtained in this lake, and consequently\nhad made arrangements to drive out there in two wagons.\nO O\nAs it was early in the season we were not able to obtain\nmany boats; a few of the party went out, however, and\nafter an hour's fishing Mr. Kean returned with a forty-\ntwo-pound lake trout. This locality is particularly celebrated for big-horned sheep, and mountain goats are\ncommon on the neighboring heights.\nO OO\nThe Sulphur Springs at Banff are highly appreciated\nby invalids. The air here is soft and balmy, and the\nrecords show that the winters are not as severe in the\nvalley as one might be led to expect. The government\nhas built excellent roads, running in different directions,\nall through the valley and up the mountain sides. A\ngood livery is kept at the hotel, where horses and\ncarriages can be obtained for excursions in the vicinity.\nBridle-paths have also been cut to quite a distance in the\nmountains. A party could stay a couple of weeks here\nwith very great profit, not only on account of the shooting\nand fishing, but for the pleasure that would be derived 176\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nfrom excursions to the different points of interest. A\npicture of the hotel is given on another page.\nWe stopped for a few minutes about ten miles farther\neast, at Anthracite, a place where discoveries of anthracite\ncoal have been made. From that point we did not stop\nuntil we reached Calgary, where we remained about half\"\nan hour, at the request of the mayor and some of the\nprominent citizens, and enjoyed a drive around the city.\nCalgary can be compared to the town of Great Falls, in\nMontana ; it seems to be similarly located, and will eventually become a distributing point for the mines and\nmountain region surrounding it : it is understood that\nO O '\nthis is now the case with regard to the Northwest and\nMackenzie River country. The growth of this town within the past four years has been something phenomenal.\nFrom Calgary we hurried on eastward until, about\nsundown, we reached Medicine Hat, situated on the\nSaskatchewan River. This place is the home of Mr.\nNiblock, through whose energy enough funds have been\nraised to build a large hospital for the railroad people.\nThe station at Medicine Hat is one of the prettiest buildings on the prairie ; the experimental garden in front of\nthe building in the summer time is one mass of flowers.\nWe left Medicine Hat at half-past six on the evening\nof May 31st, taking with us Mr. Niblock's assistant, Mr.\nCoon, his celebrated ducking dog \" Punch,\" and another\ndog which we borrowed from a gentleman in Medicine\nHat. We ran slowly during the evening, so timing ourselves as to get within about half a mile of Goose Lake at\nthree o'clock in the morning. The train was stopped here\nr\n! i , :' .\nRed Sucker Cove, North Shore Lake\nSuperior, Canadian Pacific\nRailwav.\njis\nPv ^\n*fe*^\n;^<\u00C2\u00A7&W\n-aoii>tMs \u00E2\u0096\u00A0\"*\nf\ny\njij\u00C2\u00AE\nIk. mmh\nfif\nii\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\nii\nit\n;i\n^^^r^^assl Red Sucker Tunnel, Canadian Pacific\nRailway. ^i^Z: \<&5v\n.^J^SUSm lit) Hunting Experiences.\non the main track, Mr. Coon having with him a telegraph\ninstrument with -which he tapped the wires and kept all\neast- and west-bound trains out of the way. We then had\ncoffee, and the gentlemen of the party started with their\nguns and walked up the track, just as day was breaking.\nAs we neared the lake, which lay to the south, we could\nhear geese and ducks, as well as many other kinds of wildfowl, making an incessant squawking and calling. When\nwe reached the lake we found it fairly alive with geese\nand ducks of every description ; snipe, yellow-legs, and\navecet were there in myriads. Owing to the easy\nmanner in which wild-fowl can be killed here, the lake\nhas been nicknamed, by Mr. Van Home, \" Blind-hunter's\nLake \" ; he truthfully contends that all a man has to do\nis to go there, fire off a gun, and he is sure to hit some-\nO ' O '\nthing. It must be added however, that this remark only\napplies to the gunning season.\nAs it was the close of the season, and our party only\ndesired to obtain a few specimens of game, to be mounted\nin Winnipeg, we separated, some of us going to the north\nside of the lake, while others went to the opposite side.\nAbout half-past six we returned to the railroad track,\nat the north end of the lake, each with a few specimens\nof almost every kind of wild-fowl. All the party then\nwent back along the track, and signalled for the train to\ncome up, when we all got on. We made a run for a short\ndistance until we came to another part of the lake, where\na number of swan were seen. We stopped the train, and\ntwo of the party tried to stalk them, but found it impossible\nto get near them, as the swan would invariably get up , II\n178 California and Alaska.\njust before the sportsmen were within gun-shot distance.\nAt Rush Lake we made another stop. This is, probably,\nthe finest shooting lake on the line of the Canadian\nPacific; wild-fowl shooting is said to be better here than\nanywhere else along the road. After spending a half-\nhour at this lake, we all returned to the train and had\nbreakfast. While waiting at the siding at this lake we\nwere passed by the west-bound Continental. From Rush\nLake to Winnipeg we made no stop, except to change\nengines and take water. We arrived at Winnipeg at\nabout eleven o'clock in the evening, having made exceptionally good time.\nThe following day, Sunday, the second of June, the\nweather was bright, clear, and quite warm. Shortly after\nbreakfast the American Consul called upon us, and we\narranged with him for a visit to Governor Shultz. Some\nof the party took carriages and drove to church.\nIn the afternoon the children all took a drive, and the\nmen of the party visited Mr. Hines, the taxidermist, and\nleft with him a number of heads and specimens that we\nhad procured in the Rocky Mountains and elsewhere, such\nas moose, elk, and the black-tailed deer. The writer had\nthe pleasure of capturing one of the largest moose heads\nthat had ever been seen in that section of the country ;\nalso quite a large elk head.\nWe all enjoyed our visit in Winnipeg, especially our\ncall upon Governor Shultz, whom we found to be an\nexceedingly agreeable person. He was very anxious,\nnot only to hear about our trip to Alaska, but also to give\nthe writer information in regard to the Mackenzie River I:\nMain Street, Winnipeg. i.\nIi' CHOP'S*\nB\n.\u00E2\u0080\u00A2i\nIk\nIP\ni III!\n1\nill\nII r&\nA Canadian Backwoods Team, near\nSudbury, Canadiait Pacific\nRailway.\nK\nm\nl-M *\n-25\n\" ii\nva>\n$\nHHBB ii Hunting Experiences.\nBasin country, of which he had made a study having\nJ O\nbeen a member of a commission, appointed some years\nago by the Canadian Government, to make a report on\nthe subject. He kindly furnished us with a copy of this\ndocument. He was very anxious that some time in the\nnear future the writer should make up a party and visit\nthe Mackenzie River, following it down to its outlet. He\nexplained that this scheme was quite practicable, provided\nthe writer could obtain a letter from the Hudson Bay\nCompany giving him the right to use their boats on the\nriver or its tributaries, wherever they might be found ;\nand he, very kindly, gave the assurance that he could\nobtain such a letter. Such a trip, he estimated, would\noccupy about five or six months.\nWinnipeg, the capital of Manitoba, is situated at the\njunction of the Red and Assiniboine rivers, both of which\nare navigable by steamships. For many years this city\nhas been the chief post of the Hudson Bay Company, and\nto-day that company carries on a very large business with\nthe people in the regions to the north and west. As it\nwas Sunday we were not able to visit the warehouses of\nthe Hudson Bay Company, and could only see them from\nthe outside. They look more like large military barracks\nthan the buildings of a private company. Governor Shultz\ninformed us that in former years the Hudson Bay Company were government, counsel, and every thing else to\nthis part of the country ; that they made their own laws,\nand even conducted the trials. He also informed us that\nvery few people believe Lord Lonsdale ever penetrated\nthe Arctic region as far as he claimed he did ; in fact, that \f)\n180\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nI\nreports from Hudson Bay officials said that no such\nperson had ever been at certain posts, and that it was\nnext to impossible for him to have gone over to\nMollesten's Land, or even to the eastern Arctic coast\nopposite ;\u00E2\u0080\u0094besides, the trip from here westward to the\nYukon would have required a longer period.\nThe city is situated on a level plain ; the streets are\nvery broad, and the buildings mostly of brick. An illustration of the main street in Winnipeg is given elsewhere.\nWithin the last few years the town, of course, has grown\nvery rapidly, owing to the Canadian Pacific Railway passing through it and the Manitoba Railroad reaching it from\nthe south. Many branches of railroad now centre here.\nThe Hudson Bay Company have a railway, which, when we\nwere at Winnipeg, was completed as far as Shoal Lake,\nforty miles to the northwest. The depot of the Canadian\nPacific Railway in this city is a handsome and imposing\nbuilding, and is the divisional headquarters for that part\nof the road from Port Arthur to Donald, a distance of\none thousand four hundred and fifty-four miles ; this is\ncalled the Western Division. The land offices of the\nCanadian Pacific Railway are also located here.\nIn conversing with the taxidermist, Mr. Hines, and his\nson, both of whom are ardent sportsmen, they gave very\ninteresting accounts of the game that can be found north\nof Winnipeg, at Lake Winnipeg. This game includes\nmoose, caribou, bear, and, in the fall, any number of\nducks. They also informed us that the facilities for\ngetting to the hunting grounds were very good. The\nsportsman could follow the Hall River nearly the whole IjjTl\nB\nAlaskan Game, Killisnoo.\n\m\nI\nit\n&\nm\nIf\ni\nf\nI\n1 II f I\n1 II\n4)\n\t I\n5\nIpt\nISP\n^r\n: i mil\" Skirting Nepigon Bay, Canadian Pacific\nRailway.\nw\nV\nI\nII\n1\nK\n1%\n1\nlis*\nfe\nIf\n5?*\n&\n^1 :!S\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A03-K\nfcCsXi*&^\n'' \u00E2\u0096\u00A0 \u00E2\u0096\u00A0*\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\nf fl.i\nWmi\nv,. \u00E2\u0080\u00A2\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\nJ haaAfttt*2XBfi\nggi\nmm\n.&M M\n11/\nm\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\nn M Hunting Experiences.\n181\ndistance, part of the way by steamboat and the rest of the\nway in canoes, making it exceedingly easy to take plenty\nof supplies. The country is said to resemble very much\nthe Adirondacks or the lake region of Minnesota from\nthe fact that, for miles and miles the hunter can go from\none lake to another, oftentimes without having to make\nany carry, while at others he would only have from one\nto three hundred feet carry to make. They told us, also,\nthat the grounds for camping were excellent; in fact,\nfrom their account we came to the conclusion that a trip\nthere during the months of September or October would\namply repay any sportsman.\nii\nBrST CHAPTER XXII.\nFROM WINNIPEG, HOMEWARD BOUND.\nWE left Winnipeg at three o'clock on the afternoon of June 2d, arriving at Rat Portage\nabout sundown. The scenery west from Lake\nWinnipeg was very similar to what we had seen the two\npreceding days, until we approached Rat Portage, when\nthere were some very picturesque views and numerous\nrock-bound lakes that we passed, many of which were\nstudded with small islands and were very pretty.\nWe arrived at Port Arthur about six o'clock on the\nmorning of June 3d, first stopping at Fort William.\nThe ride by moonlight the night before was through\nscenery different from any thing we had seen heretofore.\nThe road twisted and turned around many low hills,\nacross small lakes, winding down rivers, running all the\no * ^>\ntime through an exceedingly picturesque country. The\neffect of the moonlight, now and then falling upon these\nbeautiful lakes, of which there was almost a continuous\nline, was so pleasing as to induce many of the party to sit\nout on the rear platform until quite late in the evening.\nIf we had not been in a hurry to reach Nepigon, where Nepigon River, and Hudson Bay Company s Post, Looking down the River\nfrom near Canadian Pacific\nRailway Bridge.\nm\n4.\nP>\u00C2\u00BB\n1\nIf*\ni\nI\nm\nI\ni\nr^a\n1^\n^\n$\n\u00C2\u00BB\n^ Si\nM\ni\n1/\nU'lll\n1 ism\nI\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A03\nr5\u00C2\u00AB\nm\n&\nmi\n>&\n'iff?\nill\n'\u00E2\u0096\u00A04-ii\nm\nIJ'sR ',i \m\nHi\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\nIFJH\nHli\nv'i\n.'VI\n.\n-*l\n\"\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\u00E2\u0096\u00A0*\u00E2\u0080\u00A2 \u00E2\u0096\u00A0\u00E2\u0080\u00A2'\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\" \"hi i-nr-nin \u00E2\u0096\u00A0ar*\nM\nil1\nli^N\nis\nThunder Cape, Lake Superior Writ\n^\u00C2\u00BB$R*X& V >\u00E2\u0096\u00A0' \"'I'\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0**-\nfed\nSI\n1ST\n1\nis*\nI\nPL\nI r\nn\\nbill\nD>!\nhi From Winnipeg, Homeward Bound.\n18-\nm\nthe party proposed to have some fishing, we would have\nstopped over at Winnipeg until the morning, in order to\nenjoy this scenery, which, though it was not grand, was\nexceedingly beautiful.\nWe arrived at Port Arthur, more commonly called\nPrince Arthur's Landing, at about eight o'clock in the\nmorning, and remained there until the Indians, who\nwere to accompany us on our fishing tour, arrived from\nFort William, about half-past one. We procured a boxcar for the canoes. The morning was occupied in visiting\nvarious stores, and purchasing provisions and needed\narticles for the four or five days' camping trip up the\nNepigon. We also went down to the docks, and went\nthrough one of the fine steam-ships of the Canadian\nPacific Company, which ply between Port Arthur and\nOwen's Sound. Both this place and Fort William are\nnoted for having a great number of large grain elevators.\nThe extensive docks at Port Arthur are also a notable\nfeature of the place.\nThe steam-ship that we took here was a passenger\nboat, fitted up with every modern luxury and convenience.\nThe engine-room was so arranged that visitors, instead of\nbeing warned away by the sign \"No Admittance,\" were\npermitted to go through almost every part of it. These\nboats were built on the Clyde, in Scotland, and the\ndifferent pieces brought to this country and put together\nat Lake Superior. The principal freight carried by them\nis grain.\nDirectly across the bay from Port Arthur is Thunder\nCape, a view of which is given on another page. Behind\nV\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0vy\nm MA\nill\nI re\nill\nM\n184 California and Alaska.\nthis cape is Silver Islet, noted for having yielded\nfabulous amounts of silver ore. On the Western Division,\nwest of Port Arthur, \" Central \" time and the twenty-\nfour-hour system are used. East of Port Arthur, Eastern\ntime and the old twelve-hour system are used.\nWe made the short run from Port Arthur to Nepigon,\nand immediately on our arrival went down the Hudson\nBay Company's coast and called on Mr. Flanagan, the\nhead official of that company. He had been notified by\nMr. Van Home to have every thing ready for us in the\nway of necessary supplies ; also canoes and Indians. We\nprocured from him another boat, some Indian tents and\nblankets, and the party started up the river. It consisted\nof Messrs. Kean, Purdy, Frank Webb, and George Bird;\nthe writer and Dr. McLane had arranged to remain with\nthe ladies and children while the other members of the\nparty made their trip up the river. We had heard that\nthe Nepigon had been pretty thoroughly fished, owing\nto its accessibility, and we were told that by going on\nto Jackfish we would find a number of streams, both east\nand west, that could easily be reached, and where the\nfishing was very good. We arrived at Jackfish, about\nsundown. The road from Nepigon to Jackfish sweeps\naround the north shore of Lake Superior, and represents a section of the railroad upon which some of the\nheaviest work on the entire line had to be done. The\nscene changes constantly, the road sometimes going over\ndeep, rugged cuttings, viaducts, passing through tunnels,\nand sometimes on the very face of the cliff. One or two\nmiles of road over which we passed cost the company\nHUO\ni-ii Nepigon Bay, from Nepigon Station J;iffl\nI\ns;\n, '#f 1\nKg\ni\nIf\nWJ1\n,5fP\niff\"'3\nB\n$*\n* M fackfish Bay, Caitadian Pacific\nRailway.\nA\n1\nDtf\ni\nfir\nKg\n|\n^8*\nl\n^\n5\nr \u00E2\u0080\u0094I\nX \u00E2\u0080\u00A2\u00E2\u0096\u00A0*\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0SHBSHBMH\n:'%\n4?\n.*u* -ji_- TjMM'rjfJMii wti* f #\u00C2\u00ABjm lit From Winnipeg, Homeward Bound. 185\nnearly $500,000 per mile. The water along the shore at\nsome places is from three to five hundred feet deep. It\nwas in this section of the country, views of which are\nelsewhere given, that the Canadian Pacific Railway spent\nover $1,500,000 in dynamite alone. The company had\nto use such a large amount of this explosive that they\nbuilt an establishment of their own for its manufacture;\nthe building was located on an island, which can be seen\nfrom the train.\nAt Schreiber, a divisional point, we changed engines.\nThe Division Superintendent whom we met here very\nkindly introduced the writer to the engineer of this section\nof the road, a great fisherman. He not only told us where\nthe best fishing was to be had, but arranged with the foreman of the section at Jackfish, also quite a fisherman, to\ntake us up and down the track on his hand-car as often as\nwe might desire.\nFrom Schreiber to Jackfish the road is carried through\nand around many lofty and precipitous promontories, and\nover a great number of high trestles. Jackfish is beautifully situated on Jackfish Bay. The mouth of the bay is\nfilled with islands and is one of the land-locked harbors on\nthe north coast of Lake Superior. The place is known\nprincipally as a fishing hamlet, and, besides the depot,\ncontains only a few huts occupied by fishermen. Lake\ntrout from ten to twenty pounds in weight are brought in\nevery evening by small sloops. These fish are taken in\ngill nets in the deep water beyond the islands. Quite a\nnumber of brook trout are also caught in this way, each\nboat bringing in from thirty to seventy-five fish. The\n24\ni:m\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0iMiMnai\njfcfimHjmgg^a.'-gaafcjTirjg^ us\u00E2\u0080\u0094 oast -Ji\n|Mk\u00C2\u00A3. .ifafc I r\n186 California and Alaska.\nm\nfish are cleaned at once and shipped by express to the\nEast, nearly every express train which stops here taking\non four or five barrels. When a fisherman comes across\na particularly fine brook trout, or lake trout, he packs\nit in ice and ships it to some particular customer in\nOttawa.\nEarly on the morning of June 4th, Dr. McLane and\nthe writer started on the hand-car with the section foreman\nand three men, and rode four miles east to Steel River,\ncrossing the railroad bridge there and going down to the\nmouth of the river, where it empties into Lake Superior.\nThe river here is filled with pools from twelve to\nfifteen feet deep, and at other places is from two to three\nfeet deep, though the current is very swift; it is about one\nhundred yards wide. The writer had scarcely made a cast\nbefore he struck a very large trout ; after some very lively\nwork, playing him about ten minutes in the swift current,\nthe fish was landed and found to weigh about three\npounds. A second attempt resulted in hooking another\ntrout not quite so large. The fishing in this river is said\nto be better than in any other river on the lake coast;\nvery few people, however, are aware of this fact, nearly all\nfishing parties going to the Nepigon. After lunch we\nwent up the river some two miles north of the railroad\nbridge to one of the prettiest pools we had ever seen.\nWe had fairly good luck here and, in the afternoon,\nreturned on the hand-car to Jackfish. On the following\nday, Dr. McLane not feeling very well, the writer made\nthe same trip without him, but as the weather was very\nwarm he met with little success. One of the men on the m\n&\ni\n<\u00C2\u00AB?*\nIS\nP\nf\nI\nNepigon River and Bridge, Canadian\nPacific Railway.\n?R\nIS\n1\n#\nEl\n0F 1/\nly mad\n$\nWt-\"! K\u00C2\u00AB m\ni,\nM . . . -Jte&i\n\ \"\nTypical Railway View, North Shore\nLake Superior, Canadian\nPacific Railway.\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\u00E2\u0096\u00A0'.-.\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0' : \u00E2\u0096\u00A0 -\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 \"\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\nA\nm\nhi\n511\nm&\n*/\n*\nBr-\nis\n8*\ni\n1>2\nWO|\n^\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\u00C2\u00BBS.'T|9\n.^- -7wc^v.i,aeBraH\u00C2\u00BB -wara &&&& &V%ciNft ^s^VM ^ens\$&S\. Ys&sWT m\n\":'*'+'jt*~T& \"r-.T*.'^ ^a^.^T's^T ^a.vwsbl\nsyjgsrSffyjKzzgr^T^g*^!^^ I\n' From Winnipeg, Homeward Bound. 187\ncar had been out in the morning to a little brook called\nBlackbird Creek, about two miles west of Jackfish, and\ncaught ten fine trout with a fly ; some of the trout weighed\nas much as four pounds each. After lunch the writer\ntook Mrs. Webb and Mrs. Purdy in a sail-boat, and sailed\nover to this creek, where we got out and fished awhile.\nWe then went up on a high trestle and waited for Mr.\nVan Home, who was expected to come along with our\ntrain. The day before he had wired us that he was on his\nway to the Pacific coast, and he would stop and take up\nour train with his \" special \" and take us back to Nepigon,\nwhere we had arranged to remain a couple of days until\nthe boys came down the river.\nOwing to some little delay down the line we had\nto wait on the trestle two hours, but Mr. Van Home\nfinally came along and picked us up. He and his party\ndined with us that evening, and after leaving us at Nepigon he started westward for the Pacific coast. His last\nwords to us were : \" Make yourselves at home, and call for\nwhat you want.\"\nThursday, June 6th, we spent at Nepigon, waiting for\nthe boys to come down the river, and did but very little\nfishing. The flies had got to be quite thick, and we had\nto be very careful all day to keep them from getting into\nthe cars. Dr. McLane and the writer spent the evening\nwith Mr. Flanagan and his family, and were delightfully\nentertained by his charming wife and daughter. Mr.\nFlanagan has been located here with his family quite\na number of years, and is in charge of the Hudson Bay\nproperty. Some foot-races and rifle-matches between the\nI\nW\n>^ i88\nCalifornia and Alaska.\nMl\n1 PM\nHII\nm\nporters on our train, which we got up on this afternoon,\nproved to be very amusing.\nAbout six o'clock the next evening word was brought\nto us by an Indian that our party was coming down the\nriver ; we telegraphed at once to Port Arthur to send an\nengine to take us East. The boys arrived about seven\nO *\no'clock, and, as soon as possible after their arrival, we\nstarted for Montreal.\nAfter leaving Jackfish, our. journey led us through\na very wild and barren country, perhaps the most uninteresting portion of the Canadian Pacific road. There was\none succession of small lakes and insignificant mountains.\nWe changed engines four times after we left Schreiber\u00E2\u0080\u0094\nat White River, Chapleau, Carter, and Sudbury. Chap-\nleau is charmingly situated on Lake Kinogama, and here\nthe railroad company have workshops, and a number of\nneat cottages for their employes.\nWe arrived at Sudbury about evening. This place\nhas a connection with the Sault Ste. Marie Railroad,\nthrough to St. Paul and Minneapolis, by the Duluth,\nSouth Shore, and Atlantic and \" Soo \" route. Just before\nthis time a new passenger line had been opened from\nMinneapolis to Boston by this route. Large copper\nmines are situated a short distance from Sudbury, and\na number of smelting works have been erected there.\nWe left Sudbury on the evening of Saturday, June\n8th, and arrived at Ottawa on the morning of the 9th,\npassing North Bay, a very pretty town on Lake Nipis-\nsing, during the night. The country from Sudbury to\nNorth Bay is very much frequented by sportsmen; bear, A Tow on Lake Superior-Coal Vessels\nReturning from Thunder Bay.\nwtmmmOm\nmmm^mm^Utumuak\n^twr^.a *\"~w~-^B^\"\"'-ry\n^\u00C2\u00A3T&pf&*mt'x\u00C2\u00A3~jr *rayriLTS*5g\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0$WI\n>Q \u00E2\u0096\u00A0 fl\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2fe :.'\u00E2\u0080\u00A2.\nhmtem, Carte*,and ib*ry.*\nM &\n% \u00C2\u00A3\nflflff\nII\nfl From Winnipeg, Homeward Bound. H|\nmoose, and deer are said to abound throughout this\nregion\u00E2\u0080\u0094such, at least, was the statement made by our\ntrain-hands. Very little timber seems to have been cut\nin this region, but wherever the land has been cleared it\nhas been immediately taken for agricultural purposes.\nWe spent the morning in Ottawa, and left about one\no'clock for Montreal, making the run in three hours, and\narriving in the new station of the Canadian Pacific Railway, near the Windsor Hotel. It was here that we\nbegan to feel that we had almost completed our long and\ninteresting trip. On another page an illustration is given\nof this new depot of the Canadian Pacific Railway, and\nit is probably one of the finest passenger depots in the\ncountry.\nImmediately on our arrival we went to the Windsor\nHotel for dinner, and there met the genial manager, Mr.\nSwett, who gave us a very cordial reception, as usual. In\nthe evening we walked around the city, getting back to\nthe train about bedtime.\nOur train was taken around to the Grand Trunk\nDepot, and, on the morning of Monday, June ioth, Mr.\nFlagg, Mr. Louis Webb, and Mr. Smith arrived from\nNew York to welcome our return. We had intended to\nstay all day in Montreal, but towards noon the weather\nbecame warm and sultry, and, as the party became a little\nrestless and anxious to go to Shelburne, the writer telegraphed to St. Albans for an engine, and we left at five\no'clock, reaching home about three hours later. The people of the whole town turned out to greet us on our arrival,\nand gave us an old-fashioned and right hearty welcome.\nfe&eg\nI-\u00E2\u0080\u00A2 \"T \u00E2\u0096\u00A0-\nj^^^i^^2^\u00C2\u00A3i\u00C2\u00A3\u00E2\u0084\u00A2\u00C2\u00AB\n~jk\"\n-\u00E2\u0080\u00942.>UgC-T9*\nx^eos\nmH. AbJ California and Alaska.\nBefore closing this record of our western trip, it is\nonly proper to say that the whole party were unanimous\nin the opinion that the courtesy and kind attention shown\nby Mr. Van Home and all of the officials connected with\nthe Canadian Pacific Railway could never be fully repaid,\nand that it was only through their efforts that our trip had\nbeen so thoroughly enjoyable and interesting. It is not\ntoo much to say that Mr. Van Home literally verified the\nstatement made in a letter to the writer prior to the commencement of our journey ; that statement was, that the\nCanadian Pacific Railway was at the disposal of the writer\nto come and go on as he willed, and that all he had to do\nwas to command. Mr. Van Home's generous hospitality\nwas certainly thoroughly appreciated by every member of\nthe party, and will never be forgotten by the writer.\nTHE END. ^\n?*\u00C2\u00A3\n*te- f\nWW\n1\nf\nii\nM\nMl wi\nfe ! $4 *>?\nH\nm "Letter-press edition.

Spine title: California and Alaska.

500 copies have been printed for sale."@en . "Books"@en . "F851_W36"@en . "10.14288/1.0056394"@en . "English"@en . "Vancouver : University of British Columbia Library"@en . "New York : G.P. Putnam's Sons, Knickerbocker Press"@en . "Rare Books and Special Collections Medium Oversize"@en . "These images are provided for research and reference use only. Written permission to publish, copy or otherwise use these images must be obtained from Rare Books & Special Collections http://www.library.ubc.ca/spcoll/"@en . "University of British Columbia. Library. Rare Books and Special Collections. F851 .W36"@en . "Canadian Pacific Railway Company"@en . "California--Description and travel"@en . "Alaska--Description and travel"@en . "Pacific Coast (U.S.)--Description and travel"@en . "Pacific Coast (B.C.)--Description and travel"@en . "California and Alaska, and over the Canadian Pacific Railway"@en . "Text"@en . ""@en .