"43c17f60-5d79-4392-a329-9caaa34b1779"@en . "CONTENTdm"@en . "http://resolve.library.ubc.ca/cgi-bin/catsearch?bid=1068001"@en . "British Columbia Historical Books Collection"@en . "Aberdeen and Temair, Ishbel Gordon, Marchioness of, 1857-1939"@en . "2015-07-03"@en . "1893"@en . "\"A collection of papers first published in the magazine Onward and upward, 1891-2. Chapter 10: The Rocky Mountains. Chapter 11: A visit to British Columbia. Chapter 12: Guisachan farm. Recollections of holiday trips. Chapter 12 describes life on an Okanagan farm.\" -- Lowther, B. J., & Laing, M. (1968). A bibliography of British Columbia: Laying the foundations, 1849-1899. Victoria, BC: University of Victoria, p. 111."@en . ""@en . "https://open.library.ubc.ca/collections/bcbooks/items/1.0222331/source.json"@en . "viii, 249 pages : photographs, illustrations, map ; 19 cm"@en . "application/pdf"@en . " THROUGH CANADA\nWITH A KODAK \nEDINBURGH:\nW H. WHITE & CO. \nTHE great majority of the illustrations in\nthis book are printed from photographs\ntaken by Lady Aberdeen's Kodak; but in\nsome instances use has been made of photographs collected by Lord and Lady Aberdeen\nwhen travelling. As these were, however,\nmostly unmounted, the name of the photographer does not always appear, so that acknowledgment of their origin cannot in every\ncase be recorded. But special mention must\nbe made of Messrs Notman of Montreal, and\nMessrs Boorne and May of Calgary, whose\nwell known work will be recognised in some of\nthe illustrations inserted.\nIf in some cases there is an unavoidable\nomission of acknowledgment, an apology is\nhereby offered, any such omission being quite\nunintentional. PREFACTORY NOTE.\nTHE papers contained in this little book were writtem\nduring two tours in Canada, for the information\nand amusement of the Members and Associates of the\nOnward and Upward Association, and were accordingly published in the Magazine Onward and\nUpward vo 1891-92. They are merely the passing and\nsuperficial notes of a traveller journeying rapidly through\nthe country, and desirous of conveying some impressions\nof the rich and varied attractions presented by \" the\nDominion,\" and which appear to be but very imperfectly\nrealised by those at home, whether by the holiday\nseeker or the intending settler. .They do not aspire to\ndeal with the deeper questions of Canadian life or\npolitics, but are merely recollections of delightful holiday trips made charming not only by the beauties of\nnature, but by the extraordinary kindness and hospitality\nof people of all classes in Canada. Looked upon thus\nin the light of a journal, these pages possess a peculiar\nattraction for their writer, in company with the little\nscraps of sketches and photographic views so dear to\nthe heart of the tourist. But they appear to her to be\nscarcely worthy of being thus collected in the form of a\nvolume. As, however, both the publisher and many kind\nreaders of these jottings in their previous form have\ndesired to see them* thus gathered together, their wishes\nhave been deferred to, and, with a full consciousness\nof their deficiencies, they are now gratefully dedicated\nto both the Members and Associates of the Onward\nand Upward Association and to our friends and hosts\nin Canada.\nISHBEL ABERDEEN.\nHaddo House, Aberdeenshire, April 1893 CONTENTS.\ni.\nii.\nm.\nrv.\nv.\nVI.\nVII.\nVIT.I.\nIX.\nX.\nXI.\nXII.\nXIII.\nXIV.\nXV.\nOUTWARD BOUND, -\nQUEBEC, ----._\nMONTREAL, - - - - . -\nA CANADIAN LAKE VOYAGE,\nHAMILTON, -\nTORONTO, ------\nOTTAWA, ------\nACROSS THE PRAIRIES, -\nIN A RAILWAY ACCIDENT,\nTHE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, -\nA VISIT TO BRITISH COLUMBIA,\nGUISACHAN FARM, -\nTHE INDIANS OF CANADA, -\nMORE ABOUT THE INDIANS AND THEIR CUSTOMS,\nMANNERS AND TRADITIONS OF THE INDIANS OF THE\nCOAST AND ISLANDS, -\nAPPENDIX, ------\nLIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.\nPAGE\nI\nII\n23\n36\"\n43\n61\n7i\n9i\n113\n131\n153\n169\n197\n212\n223\n243\nFronti.\nGroup of Canadian Boys, - - \u00E2\u0096\u00A0 -\nOutward Bound, -\nA Last Peep of \" Ould Ireland.\" From a Sketch by Lady\nAberdeen, x -\nThe First Iceberg on the Horizon. From a Sketch by\nLady Aberdeen,\nQuebec, from the South Side of the River, ^g\nQuebec, from Montmorenci. From a Sketch by Lady\nAberdeen, ------\nThe Falls of Montmorenci, -\nA Quebec Caleche, -\nJacques Cartier, .-_-_.\nMontreal, -------\nSir Donald Smith, ------\nFather Lacombe, ------\n\"The First Communion.\" From a Photo of Picture by\nJules Breton, in the possession of Sir Donald Smith, -\nKingston, Ontario. From a Sketch by Lady Aberdeen,\nHighfield, Hamilton, Ontario, -\nThe Gore, Hamilton, Ontario, -\nLord Haddo and Lady Marjorie H. Gordon,\nHon. Dudley and Hon. Archie H. Gordon,\nA Hamilton Yacht, -\napiece\n2\n8\n10\nIS\n18\n21\n24\n25\n29\nti\n39\n45\n47\n49\n5o\n51 List of Illustrations.\nVII\n*AGE\nView on Hamilton Bay, - - - - \"55\nThe Lads and Lassies who accompanied us, - - 59\nUniversity Buildings, Toronto, 63\nCaptain Macmaster, ----- 66\n-Government House, Toronto, 67\nThe late Sir Alexander Campbell, 68\nFalls of Niagara, - - - - - - 73\nAbove Niagara, ------ 74\nView of Ottawa, ------ 75\nLord Stanley (now Earl of Derby), - - - - 76\nLady Stanley (now Countess of Derby), - - - 77\nSir John Abbott, ----_- 79\nA pair of Acadian or Sand Whet Owls, - - - 80\nCanadian \" Dick\" and \" Bill\" at Dollis Hill, Willesden, - 81\nThe View from the Terrace outside Parliament Buildings, - 84\nPage 25.-\nPage 79-\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\nERRATA.\n-Read \"View of Victoria, B.C.,\" instead of \" Montreal.\"\n-Read \" Portrait of Sir John Carling,\" instead of 'Sir\nJohn Abbott.\"\n\"\"craremigme, as Photographed after the Accident, -\nOff Again! - - -\nA Regiment of Workers on the Prairie, -\nOne of Sir John Lister-Kaye's big Farms in Alberta,\nPassing a Car-full of Emigrants\u00E2\u0080\u0094\" Take our Pictures,\"\nMap showing region of Summer droughts in North America,\nA Horse Ranch near Calgary, -\nApproaching the Rockies, -----\n\" The Three Sisters,\" -\nView from the Window of the Banff Hotel,\n^Cascade Mountain, Banff, -\nThe Van Home Range, sketched from Field by Lady\nAberdeen, ... -\nA Trestle Bridge, - -\nIl6\n117\n122\n124\n125\n126\n127\n132\n133\n135\nI36\n139\nI4O CONTENTS,\nI. OUTWARD BOUND,\nII. QUEBEC,\nIII. MONTREAL,\nIV. A CANADIAN LAKE VOYAGE,\nV. HAMILTON,\nVI. TORONTO,\nVII. OTTAWA,\nVOX ACROSS THE PRAIRIES,\nIX. IN A RAILWAY ACCIDENT,\nX. THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS,\nXI. A VISIT TO BRITISH COLUMBIA,\nXH. GUISACHAN FARM,\n\"~***\u00C2\u00BB\u00C2\u00BBe m? CANADA,\nPAGE\nI\nII\n23\n36-\n43\n61\n7i\n9i\n113\n131\n153\n169\n197\n212\nAberdeen,\nThe Falls of Montmorenci,\nA Quebec Caleche,\nJacques Cartier, ------\nMontreal, -------\nSir Donald Smith, ------\nFather Lacombe, ------\n\"The First Communion.\" From a Photo of Picture by\nJules Breton, in the possession of Sir Donald Smith, -\nKingston, Ontario. From a Sketch by Lady Aberdeen,\nHighfield, Hamilton, Ontario, -\nThe Gore, Hamilton, Ontario, -\nLord Haddo and Lady Marjorie H. Gordon,\nHon. Dudley and Hon. Archie H. Gordon,\nA Hamilton Yacht, -\n21\n24\n25\n29\n3i\n35\n39\n45\n47\n49\n5o\n5i List of Illustrations.\nView on Hamilton Bay, -----\nThe Lads and Lassies who accompanied us,\nUniversity Buildings, Toronto, -\nCaptain Macmaster, -\nGovernment House, Toronto, -\nThe late Sir Alexander Campbell, -\nFalls of Niagara, ------\nAbove Niagara, ------\nView of Ottawa, ------\nLord Stanley (now Earl of Derby), -\nLady Stanley (now Countess of Derby),\nSir John Abbott, --.._-\nA pair of Acadian or Sand Whet Owls, ...\nCanadian \" Dick\" and \" Bill\" at Dollis Hill, Willesden, -\nThe View from the Terrace outside Parliament Buildings, -\nRideau Hall, Ottawa, -----\nThe Toboggan Slide at Rideau Hall,\nWestward! -\nAll Aboard! ------\nThe Car in which we travelled West,\nJohn Barber, our Car Porter,\nA Young Settlement, -\nMr and Mrs O'Brien,\nAll that is left of the Buffalo, -\nHow a journey from Winnipeg for Ottawa was accomplished\nin days gone by, -\nManitou, Manitoba, -----\n^Greetings from a Group of Manitobans, ...\nMr and Mrs Peter Graham's Cottage, ...\nMr and Mrs John Campbell's House, -\nThe Darough Family at Glenfern, - - - -\n.Scene of Accident. From a Sketch by Lady Aberdeen, -\nOur Engine, as Photographed after the Accident, -\nOff Again! - - -\nA Regiment of Workers on the Prairie, -\nOne of Sir John Lister-Kaye's big Farms in Alberta,\nPassing a Car-full of Emigrants\u00E2\u0080\u0094\" Take our Pictures,\"\nMap showing region of Summer droughts in North America,\nA Horse Ranch near Calgary, -\nApproaching the Rockies, -----\n\" The Three Sisters,\" -\nView from the Window of the Banff Hotel,\n^Cascade Mountain, Banff, -\nThe Van Home Range, sketched from Field by Lady\nAberdeen, ... -\nA Trestle Bridge, ------\nVAGE\n133 Vlll\nList of Illustrations.\nVancouver, -------\nThe late Mr G. G. Mackay, -\nLieut-Governor of British Columbia,\nAdmiral Hotham, ------\nH.M.S. \"Warspite,\" -----\nLord Aberdeen and Prof. H. Drummond in the Railway\nCar, -.----.\nThe first Passenger Train on the Shushwap and Okanagan\nLine, -------\nMr Lequime's little Steamer, -\nTransferring the Luggage from the Train to the Steamer, -\nEntrance Gate to Guisachan Farm,\nIn the Woods of Guisachan, B. C,\nView from the front-door of Guisachan. From a sketch by\nLady Aberdeen, -----\nGuisachan, B. G, -\nGoing out for a Bear Hunt, -\nWatching the Game-bag, -----\n\" Foo,\" our Chinese Cook, - -\nWilly, the Indian boy, with his white pony\nResidence No. I, -\nResidence No. 2, - - - .\nResidence No. 3, -\nResidence No. 4, -\nThe Guisachan Staff, -\nStarting for a Drive with \" Charlie \" and \" Pinto,\"\nMr Smith exhibiting the wild Indian pony,\nCoutts on \" Aleck \"\u00E2\u0080\u0094\" Spot\" in attendance,\nPlanting Scotch Firs from Guisachan, Inverness-shire, at\nGuisachan, B. C, -\nS.S. \" Penticton \" waiting to bear us away,\nGood bye ! -\nGoing to work at Coldstream Ranch,\nThe s.s. \" Empress of India,\"\nSarcee Indians, ------\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2Crowfoot, Chief of the Blackfeet, -\nIndian curios. Drawn by Mr J. Grant, -\n215, 216, 217, 225, 226, 227, 228, 229, 231, 23\n235> 237, 239, 241.\nMaking a \" Brave\" at the Sun-dance, -\nAn Indian Lodge or Wigwam, -\nEastern part of Kasa-an Village, Prince of Wales' Island,\nAlaska, - -\nMemorial bust of Sir John Macdonald, ...\nHomeward bound, - - - - -\n233:\nPAGE\n142\n143\nI46\n147\nI48\n151\n157\n159\nl60\nl62\n163\nI65\n166\nI70\n171\n172\n173\n174\n175\n176\n177\n179\nl80\n181\n183\n187\n191\ni93\n199\n201\n209\n213\n214,\n234,\n219\n221\n224\n245\n249 OUTWARD BOUND.\nATRIP to Canada! Yes, we had often talked about\nit. We had paid a visit to India, Ceylon, Australia, Tasmania, New Zealand; and we much\nwished to see something of this other vast and fair\nDominion, which forms part of the British Empire. But,\nin spite of our voyagings, we have never been friends of\nthe sea; and when we talked of Canada we were always\nvery conscious of the fact that the wild waves of the\nocean separated its shores by the space of seven days\nfrom Britain.\nHowever, last year our desires, coupled with doctor's\nadvice, overcame our fears, and on a fine evening in\nAugust we found ourselves dropping down the Mersey\non board the s.s. \" Parisian | of the Allan Line, one\nof the largest ships plying between this country and\nCanadian ports. Have you ever been on board an\nAtlantic liner when in port? If so, you know how\ndelightful everything looks. A large beautiful deck\nabove, snug little berths below; a splendid saloon, a\nreading-room, a smoking-room, books, music, games;\nA Through Canada with a Kodak.\nand you look in the pretty little prospectuses handed to\nyou about the interior arrangements of the ship, and\nyou see pictures of a happy company seated at long\ntables enjoying the best of fare, ladies and gentlemen\n~J*&>\u00C2\u00ABW.-X(\nW^^ZSmw-\nK*S~^S\nOutward Bound\u00E2\u0080\u0094The \" Parisian \" \"dropping down the Mersey.\nsinging and playing, reading, and playing at games, and\naltogether having a good time of it. Look at the pictures\ngiven in those pages, and say whether life at sea does not\nseem a very attractive thing, sailing along in one of these Outward Bound.\nbrave ships under a good captain, surrounded by\nluxuries, and with no cares, no responsibilities, no\nwork, no telegrams, no letters ?\nSo one thinks, and so one continues to think for an\nhour or two after starting; but wait a wee, and see if you\ndon't begin to wish that you could give effect to second\nthoughts, when you find yourself tossing about in the Irish\nChannel in a gale a few hours later. But the least said\nA last peep of\" Ould Ireland.\nabout these experiences, and the wishes then rashly\nuttered, the better % and so I will tell you nothing of that\nAugust night, nor of the long wait we had next day at\nMoville,, near Londonderry, for the English mails, which\nhad been delayed some hours in crossing from Holyhead\nto Kingstown, in consequence of the storm. I should\nlike, though, to be able to give you a sight of our last\nglimpse of the shores of \" Ould Ireland,\" as we saw them Through Canada with a Kodak.\ndisappearing next evening. A succession of bold bluffs\nand headlands jutting out into the sea, one beyond the\nother, as far as the eye could reach in the gathering\ndarkness, the green slopes here and there just visible,\nand the heavy black clouds which had been overhanging\nus all day fringed with a glory of red and purple and\norange. Lord Aberdeen and I leant over the taff-rail\nand caught some whiffs of a dear familiar peat-smoke,\nwhich sent us happy to our cabins that night Pray\nenquire no further: you shall hear none of our groans.\nSuffice it to say that the 750 passengers on board were\nin a decidedly subdued frame of mind for a few days,\nyour Editor amongst the number. She had not yet\neven conceived the idea of telling her friends of the\nOnward and Upward Association something about\nthis expedition, or else she would doutbless have used\nher Kodak, to bring before you various scenes and\nattitudes of different degrees of misery. Our fellow-\npassengers therefore escaped the danger of being\nintroduced thus to you, and I shall hope to show\nsome of them to you in a happier aspect later on.\nWhen we began to be in a state to realise one another,\nwe found that we might almost consider ourselves already\nin Canada. We were of all degrees: cabinet ministers,\ngovernors, senators, professors, business men, were there,\nand so were also emigrants of many various classes and\nfrom all countries, bound to many various destinations. Outward Bound.\nSome were going for the first time to seek their fortune,\nthey knew not where; some were going out to join friends\nwho had already prospered; some were returning from\npaying a brief visit to their friends in \" the old country,\"\nas we soon became Canadian enough to call it. Amongst\nsuch company, who were all also so willing to impart\ninformation to strangers and \"tenderfeet\" (this being the\nname for new-comers in Canada), we were able to pick\nup a good deal about the country and the people amongst\nwhom we were going to live for the next three months.\nI will try to filter down to you a little of what they told\nus by degrees, but first I want to introduce to you a\nnumber of youthful emigrants, in whom I think you\nwill be specially interested. These are a party of fifty\nyoung girls of all ages, from three to seventeen, taken\nfrom misery and destitution to Miss Rye's Homes,\nfrom whence they will be drafted, either as servants or\nelse adopted into colonists' homes. Much care has to\nbe used in selecting only suitable, healthy children for\nemigration, but when this care is used there are endless\nopenings for them in Canada. Miss Macpherson, whose\nname is so well known as having been the first lady to\nundertake the emigration of children, told us that this\nyear she had had 900 applications for children, of which\nshe had only been able to supply 150.\nThese little ones .whom we saw on board the \" Parisian\"\nwere all full of eager expectation regarding their new Through Canada with a Kodak.\nhomes, and, after the first few days of sea-sickness and\ndiscomfort consequent on the vaccination to which\nevery steerage passenger to Canada must submit, they\nmade themselves very happy with their skipping-ropes\nand various games. A part of the ship had been\npartitioned off and fitted up on purpose for them\u00E2\u0080\u0094a\nlittle dining place, a row of little tin basins and two\nstoreys of little box-like berths where they lay snugly\npacked away at night; the kind matron, who had crossed\nthe ocean some forty times on like business, sleeping in\na little cabin opening into this special section.\nThe chaplain accompanying the ship often had special\nservices for the children, and it was very pleasant to hear\nthe bright hymn-singing, which always brought together a\nnumber of the other passengers. As we think of those\nlittle ones we wonder how they are getting on in their\nscattered homes. We had hoped to see them again in\nMiss Rye's Home, near Niagara, but, to our regret, we\nnever managed the expedition. The matron told us that\nvery probably a fortnight after we landed the children\nwould all be engaged, or adopted in homes where they\nknew they would 'be cared for. I think I have behaved\nvery badly to you in not having photographed either these\nchildren for you, or a typical emigrant Norwegian family,\nwho would have made a delightful group if I could have\nmade them understand what I wanted. There they were,\nfather, mother, and a whole succession of little flaxen- Outward Bound.\nhaired boys and girls, the latter each with a little yellow\npig-tail, after the fashion of some of the foreign dolls we\nbuy. There are always a number of Scandinavians in\nevery ship-load of emigrants going to Canada, for they\nare most thrifty, hard-wotking people, and when they get\nsettled, generally soon send money home to bring out\ntheir relations. I shall have more to tell you about them\nby-and-by. Meantime, I must tell you about what is\nalways the great excitement of a voyage to Canada. We\nwere seven days out from Liverpool, and were preparing,\nin various ways, for a concert, which was to be given on\nbehalf of the Liverpool Home for the Orphan Children\nof Seamen who have perished at sea, when a rumour\nwent round that an iceberg was in sight. An eager\ncrowd was soon scanning the horizon with telescopes and\nfield-glasses, and before long a tiny, cone-shaped,\nglistening white hill hove in sight, resplendent with\nshades of transparent green and blue. We looked at it,\nand we photographed it, and we sketched it, and we\ntalked about it, till another, and yet another, came in\nview, and during that evening and next day some\nthirteen were seen in all the various lights of sunset and\nsunrise, and mid-day They were very beautiful, but\ntheir beauty needs to be seen to be understood. I am\nalmost ashamed to let you see the reproduction of a\nlittle sketch I attempted when the first iceberg was\nvisible on the horizon. These icebergs, which are 8\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nmorsels detached from the great glaciers of Greenland\nby the summer sun, cause great anxiety to the officers\ncommanding ships on the Atlantic. This is more\nespecially the case in the neighbourhood of Newfoundland, which is very subject to fogs; for, as the saying\ngoes, it is celebrated for \"fog, dog, and cod.\" Often\nand often ships have to lie outside the Straits of Belle-\nIsle for days enwrapped ir> dense fog, afraid to budge,\nThe first Iceberg on the Horizon\nin case one of these great ice monsters may be\nlooming near at hand, ready to overwhelm the unwary\nseaman and his craft. This very ship of ours, the\n\" Parisian,\" had a narrow escape in May. In the fog she\nran atilt against what was called a small iceberg, but\nwhich one of the passengers decribed to me as having a\nmost alarming appearance. In a moment there appeared\nas a vision just in front of the bows, a towering white\nmass, part of which seemed to! overshadow the deck.\nKi\nm Outward Bound.\nThis passenger told me that the feeling of alarm was\nswallowed up in an overpowering sense of wonder and\nawe at the marvellousness and magnificence of the scene\npresented, and that it was only later, when the skill of\ncaptain and officers had averted a catastrophe, that the\nperilous position in which the ship had been placed was\nfully realised.\nThe bright sun and clear skies which we enjoyed\ngave us immunity from all such dangers. We sailed\npeacefully through the Straits, on either side of us the\nline of the low blue hills of Labrador and Newfoundland\ngleaming in the sun, and in the reflected light of long,\ntrailing, flaky, pinky-white clouds, which we soon began\nto associate with Canadian skies. Then we floated out\nof sight of land again, into the great Gulf of St Lawrence, on into the big river itself, along the picturesque\nshores of French Canada, dotted with groups of cosy, wee,\ntin-roofed cottages, in which lived the French-Canadian\nfishermen, and every now and again a picturesque little\nchurch and school. It was all very peaceful, and a great\ncontrast to the beginning of our voyage. || But I must\nnot linger longer over our voyage, and so I leave you, till\nnext letter, within sight of the beautiful city of Quebec. \"St\nIrs II.\nQUEBEC.\nNO words could ever describe Quebec; so you must\ntry to form an idea of it from the pictures we\nhave given you. We saw it in every variety of\nweather:\u00E2\u0080\u0094first, in the uncertain reddish light of a dull\nsunrise on the morning of our arrival; and next in a\nhowling storm; then, when its bright spires glittered in\nthe glorious Canadian noon-day, or with the grey of its\nold gables transfigured in the sunset. We saw its bright\nroofs and spires bathed in the sunlight of noon; again\nin all the glories of a gold and purple sunset; and at\nnight we saw the whole city gleaming with the myriads\nof electric lights shining about her crags. Quebec\nexercises a curious fascination on the visitor; it transports him into the past whether he wills it or no; the\nsentiment of the place dominates him, and it is the only\ntown that I have seen which I can conceive imposing on\nher children the same strange potent spell which binds\nus Scotch folk to our own never-to-be-surpassed \" Auld\nReekie.\" . \u00E2\u0096\u00A0$\nIt is strange that the emigrant to the New World 12\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nshould make acquaintance with it first in this old-world\ncity, full of associations and traces of the past\u00E2\u0080\u0094its very\ninhabitants seeming to transport you to a France of two or\nthree centuries ago. Nevertheless the emigrant will find\nthat the demands of the present and future have not\nbeen forgotten, that his needs have not been overlooked,\nand that the Government and the Railway Companies\nhave amply provided for his reception. And besides\nthe Government and the Railways, there is the Women's\nProtective Immigration Society, which takes special\ncharge of all women emigrants disembarking at Quebec,\nwhether travelling alone, or with one of those protected\nparties^\u00E2\u0080\u0094by far the best auspices to travel under\u00E2\u0080\u0094which\nhave special arrangements on board ship, and a matron\nto themselves. I hope to say something later on in\nthese papers to young women thinking of emigrating;\nbut meanwhile I would like to take this opportunity of\nsaying that there is a constant demand for women-servants\nin all parts of Canada, the wages being from $8 to $12\n(j\u00C2\u00A3i, 12s. to \u00C2\u00A32, 8s.) a month in Eastern Canada, and\nincreasing as you go Westward to as much as $20 (\u00C2\u00A34)\nper month. Good general servants, who 'are not afraid\nto work, and who will adapt themselves to the ways of\nthe country, are sure to get on in Canada and to find\nhappy homes. Girls who only wish to take to one branch\nof domestic work had better not go, except in limited\nnumbers, as it is the exception, not the rule, to keep Quebec.\nI3\nmore than one servant, and those will succeed best who\nwill put their hands heartily and readily to anything.\nServants who have had some training in general work will\nbe particularly valued. If any girls reading these words\nmake up their minds to emigrate, they cannot do better\nthan go out with one of the protected parties arranged by\nthe Hon. Mrs Joyce, of the United British Women's\nEmigration Society. The passage with one of these\nparties costs \u00C2\u00A34, 10s., and all who go may be sure of\nsecuring a situation immediately on arrival.\nBut to return to our own doings at Quebec. The\nscene on our arrival at the wharf was a busy one. Most\nof the emigrants disembarked here, and we saw our little\nfriends destined for Miss Rye's Homes marched off two\nand two very happily to the train which was to convey\nthem further West. There were, a great many \" Goodbyes \" to be said to our good captain and officers, and to\nthe friends we had made on our passage out, and who\nwere all now dispersing far and near. Soon we were\ncrossing the river in a ferry-boat, and next found\nourselves dashing up the queerest, quaintest, roughest,\nsteepest streets you can imagine. These led up to the\nCitadel, which crowns the heights, and where the\nGovernor-General lives when he is staying at Quebec.\nThe present Governor-General, Lord Stanley of Preston,\nand his wife, Lady Stanley, were not at Quebec when we\narrived; but they sent us the kindest of welcomes, along 14\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\n$\nwith a hospitable invitation to stay at the Citadel. And\nnever did any guests feel more grateful than we, when\nwe found ourselves in a cosy room overlooking the town\nand the busy river. We watched our old friend the\n\"Parisian\" making ready for her further journey to\nMontreal, and we \" Kodaked\" her, and, as she steamed\naway, waved our final greetings with a towel out of the\nwindow.\nThen we had time to take in our position, and\nto survey the whole surrounding country from a delightful\nterrace which had been built out beyond the spacious\nball-room erected whilst Lord Lome and Princess Louise\nwere in Canada. In the distance lay long lines of low\nblue hills; the broad, stately river winding below, laden\nwith vessels of every description bound to and from many\nEuropean ports, while darting in and out amongst them\nflashed the white sails of pleasure boats. The city, with\nthe imposing tower of its University, its many spires, its\nbright roofs made of plates of tin, presents a strange\ncontrast to the heights clad with verdure and forest\nwhich met the eye of the adventurous French explorer,\nJacques Cartier, who arrived here in the autumn of 1535,\nwith his three ships, the \"Grande Hermine \" (120 tons),\nthe \" Petite Hermine \" (60 tons), and the \" Emerillon'\n(40 tons), and stayed one whole winter. We could not\nbut often dream that we could see those three brave\nlittle ships, with their gallant captain, floating in these a\n.^\n* i6\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nunexplored waters, and exciting the wonder of the Indian\nPrince Donnacona and his savages, crowding around the\nnew arrivals in their little bark canoes.\nYou must get out your history-books if you want to go\nback to that time, and, if you want to trace out how\nQuebec was founded a half-century later by Champlain,\nhow it became half a mission, half a trading station, how\nit was defended against the many attacks of the Indians\nand became the centre of the Colony of New France;\nand then \"how it was neglected and misgoverned by\ncorrupt officials from France, and finally how it was\nconquered by the splendid daring of General Wolfe in\n1759. We had the great advantage of seeing the scenes\nof all these historic deeds under the able guidance of\nM. Lemoine, the historian of Quebec, to whose kind care\nwe had been confided by our friend Sir Alexander\nCampbell, Lieutenant-Governor of Ontario, whom we were\nfortunate enough to have as one of our fellow-passengers\nin the \"Parisian.\" M. Lemoine showed us the steep\nprecipitous cliff up which Wolfe and his men clambered\nthat memorable night, and the spot where he overthrew\nthe few men carelessly guarding the heights: where his\nmen formed up in line, and advanced over the plains of\nAbraham : where Montcalm, the gallant French defender,\nrode out and saw the English red-coats, and heard the\nHighland bagpipes, and exclaimed, \"This is a serious\nbusiness!\" Then we saw the spot where Wolfe fell\nH I Quebec.\npierced by three bullets\u00E2\u0080\u0094where he fell, only to hear\nthe cry, a moment later, \"They run! see how they\nrun !\" \" Who run ? \" demanded Wolfe. \" The enemy,\nsir. They give way everywhere.\" \" Go,\" said the dying\nman, \" go, one of you to Colonel Burton, and tell him to\nmarch Webb's regiment down to Charles River, to cut off\ntheir retreat from the bridge.\" And then, turning on his\nside he murmured, \"Now God be praised. I will die in\npeace,\" and expired. Almost at the same moment his\nnoble-hearted enemy received his death-wound, though\nriding into the city he tried to reassure his friends, saying\n\" It is nothing; it is nothing !\" We saw also the monument\nin the Governor's garden, which commemorates both the\nconquered and the conquering General.\nBut I have not space to tell more of all we saw at\nQuebec, nor of the delightful day we spent at the falls of\nMontmorenci\u00E2\u0080\u0094higher than those of Niagara\u00E2\u0080\u0094and known\nto the people of the neighbourhood as \"La Vache\"\n(the cow), because the foam has the appearance of\nfrothing milk.\nIn the winter this spray freezes till a cone is formed\nsome seventy feet high. Then sledges with metal\nrunners called \"toboggans\" are prepared, and from the\nheight of this cone the young people of Quebec amuse\nthemselves by shooting down one after another, and\nsliding away far across the smooth surface of the river\nbelow. Oh, the fun these Canadians have in winter,\nB *-.\n!\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\nThe Falls of Montmorenci. Quebec.\nwith their sledging, their skating, their tobogganing, and\ntheir snow-shoe expeditions. The snow-shoe is a necessary equipment for those who have to take long journeys\nin the winter. It looks rather like a lawn-tennis racket,\nand consists of a light frame with netting across, which\nprevents the wearer from sinking into the snow. But\nsome practice is required in order to use this novel\noot-gear easily.\nOne word about the French Canadians. They are a\nthrifty, contented, law-abiding, religious people. When\nthe British conquered Quebec they wisely allowed the\npeople to retain their own laws and customs, and the\nresult is that nowhere can be found more loyal subjects\nof the British Crown. The atmosphere of modern France\nhas never reached them, and they are still the same\nsimple Norman and Briton peasants who came out some\nhundreds of years ago. They are very much influenced\nby their priests, who maintain a strict rule over them\nand all their family affairs. The regulations are very\nstrict\u00E2\u0080\u0094for instance, about dancing, the popular snow-shoe\nexpeditions, and other amusements. Some restrictions\nare, however, being relaxed. For example, fifty years\nago meat was absolutely forbidden all through the forty\ndays of Lent, and this was found to be a great hardship,\nin many cases in that severe climate. The rule has not\nbeen so rigidly enforced of late years/\nThe French in Canada are increasing rapidly by reason 20\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nof the large families they generally have. Twelve,\nfourteen, and sixteen children are quite an ordinary-sized\nfamily, while we heard of a well-authenticated case of one\ncouple rearing forty-four children. The country is\ntherefore filling up, and some of the people are moving\ninto the New England States, and westward to Manitoba.\nThe general desire is, however, to stick to their own\ncountry, and the Quebec Government facilitates this by\ngiving ioo acres free to every family which numbers\ntwelve children. As we drove along the well-kept road\nto and from Montmorenci, we passed various characteristic little villages; the houses bear evidence of being\nbuilt for contingencies of either extremes of climate:\nverandahs and green sun-shutters, and netting over doors\nand windows, as protection against the blazing heat and\nthe mosquitoes and flies, but also peculiarly-shaped\nroofs, curved at the bottom in such a way as to prevent\nthe snow from making a permanent lodgment.\nThe crops we saw were very poor indeed, but we were\ntold that it had been a very bad year for agriculturists\nround about Quebec. We were especially struck by the\nuniversal civility and gentle courtesy of the people\u00E2\u0080\u0094no\npushing either of themselves or of their sights, only a\nquiet readiness to help strangers, and to give them any\ninformation which they might be in need of, without\nlooking for reward. When we were in Quebec we\nimagined this was the hereditary French politeness Quebec.\n21\nshowing itself, but our experience afterwards showed us\nthat civility and a spirit of kindliness towards visitors is\nmore or less a characteristic of all Canadians.\nThere is much more that I would like to tell you\nabout Quebec and its neighbourhood, but my space is\nmore than filled, and I cannot even describe to you the\nlittle carts, dragged by dogs trained to harness, like those\nA Quebec Caleche.\nused in this country in bygone days, until they were forbidden by law; nor yet can I dilate on the curious old-\nfashioned vehicle, peculiar to Quebec, called a caleche.\nYou see a picture of one here. Try to imagine a very high\ngig, with a hood, swung on enormously high C-shaped\nsprings; next imagine a weedy-looking horse tearing\nalong, after the fashion of Quebec horses, at full gallop as\n22\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nup and down streets steeper than the Edinburgh High\nStreet, and full of holes and pitfalls, and then you will\nbe able to judge of the courage of those who trust their\npersons in such a conveyance. Nevertheless, I will confide to you that we found this method of progression\nmost comfortable, and we congratulate Quebecers on\nhaving discovered a way of making the roughness of\ntheir streets unperceivable to the traveller.\nAnd now adieu to Quebec. We shall meet again in\nMontreal. III.\nG\nMONTREAL.\nLAD to see you at Montreal!\" \"Well, and what\ndo you think of Canada ? \" \" Lord Aberdeen,\nI think? You're heartily welcome, sir!\" \"Grand hotel\nthis ! Nothing to beat it on the Continent!\" Such-like\nwere the greetings which fell on our ears as we entered\ninto the vast central hall of the Windsor Hotel, Montreal,\nafter a hot and dusty railway journey from Quebec.\nThis hall and the spacious dining-saloon and public\ndrawing-rooms of the hotel are practically a club for\nthe inhabitants of Montreal and its visitors, fj Here we\nfind many of our fellow-passengers from the I Parisian \"\nagain\u00E2\u0080\u0094here, too, was our captain; this celebrity and\nthat were pointed out to us by the head waiter, as they\nsat at the innumerable small tables at meals, and before\nmany hours had passed we felt ourselves quite habitues\nof Canada's commercial capital, and accustomed to her\nways. Quite conscientiously, too, could we pass muster\nwith the most exacting Canadian in paying due tribute\nto the comforts, the conveniences, and the splendour of\nthe Windsor Hotel. If\nI :\n24\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nAs at Quebec, our thoughts irresistibly turned to the\ncontrast between this proud and splendid city, with her\nbeautiful buildings, and churches, and universities, to\nthe nestling Indian village found by Jacques Cartier at\n!\nJacques Cartier.\nthe foot of the mountain which he first called Mont\nRoyal (the royal mountain), in honour of his king. We\nfancied we could see the groups of \" braves,\" with their\nsquaws and children, crowding out of their little huts to i*\"J lfla \u00E2\u0080\u00A2 *'\".\"\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 *' 26\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nlook at these strange beings; the women stroking the\nmoustaches and beards of the explorers, to make sure of\ntheir reality; the infirm, and sick, and feeble, with their\nparalysed chief at their head, imploring for the \" healing\ntouch\" which they believed these denizens of another\nworld could give.\nThe words which were spoken by Maisonneuve, the\nleader of the little band of forty-five emigrants who\nlanded on the island of Montreal in 1642, with the\nintention of founding a colony and a mission, have\nindeed come true. No sooner had the little party landed\nthan they gathered together for prayer and in consecration of their mission in this new land, and at the close\nof their worship Maisonneuve turned to his companions\nand said, \"You are a grain of mustard seed that shall\nrise and grow till its branches overshadow the earth.\nYou are few, but your work is the work of God. His\nsmile is on you, and your children shall fill the land.\"\nMany were the vicissitudes which that little colony\nhad to pass through, many were the heroes and heroines\nwhom they were destined to nurture amidst the rough\nexperiences of a life spent in constant dread and danger\nof the Indian's tomahawk and scalping-knife. But\nMaisonneuve's words proved prophetic, and in place of\nthe small barricaded fort of Villa Marie of Montreal,\ndefended by a few missionaries and devoted women,\nthere rears itself the largest, most prosperous city in Montreal.\nCanada, sheltered by her Royal Mountain, on which she\nlavishes her proud care. A lovely winding drive has\nbeen laid out round the sides of the mountain, by which\nthe visitor gradually ascends to a standpoint, from which\na glorious view of the river and scenery below must be\nobtained.\nUnfortunately the weather was very unfavourable when\nwe made the ascent, and we could only form a dim conception of the splendid panorama spread out before us,\nwith the rushing white waters of the Lachine Rapids in\nthe distance. But you can get an idea of the view from\nthe picture we have given you.\nOn the sides of the mountain itself large and most\ncarefully-tended cemeteries have been laid out separately\nfor Protestants and Roman Catholics, and are considered\none of the sights of the place. We drove through them,\nadmiring many strange bright plants and trees, and then\nwe wended our way to return a visit made to us in the\nmorning by an old friend of the family, Mr Crombie,\nwho had been for many years a London City Missionary,\nbut who has now in his old age gone out with his wife\nto make his home with his son, a minister in charge\nof a Presbyterian Church in Montreal.. We found\nthem enthusiastic in praise of their new country,\nand the beneficial effects that its climate had had on\ntheir health.\nBut I must cry, Halt! For I see that I am dangerously Through Canada with a Kodak.\nnear writing a journal of all our doings, and this will\nnever do. So, only one or two more remarks about\nMontreal, where, indeed, we only stayed two nights, as\nwe were hurrying on to our children, who had preceded\nus across the ocean. But we had time to inspect a\npleasant little Home for Female Emigrants in Mansfield\nStreet, which is under the charge of a lady who takes the\nliveliest interest in those who pass through her hands.\nThey are met at the steamers, and for the first twenty-\nfour hours can remain at the Home free of all charge.\nVery often, even on the first day, they find places to\nwhich they can go at once, but if they require to stay a\nlittle longer they pay a small sum per day. W But all may\nbe sure of a welcome here, and of help and wise advice.\nAnd then I must tell you of the evening we spent at\nthe beautiful house of Sir Donald Smith, whose name is\na household word in Canada, as well it may be, for he\nhas acted the part of a fairy godfather to his adopted\ncountry. I think we must some day try if Sir Donald\ncannot be persuaded to tell the O.U.A. some of his\nstories of the by-gone days of the Hudson's Bay Company, of which he is President, and in whose service\nhe has taken many an adventurous journey. He could\ntell us not only of the hardships of cold, but of the hardships of heat, which beset the hunter. That very evening\nwe were with him he told us of the terrors of the Labrador\nmosquitoes, and how they have vanquished men who M\n/:\nM\nmm\ni I\nIf\nw\nmr\nSir Donald Smith. 3\u00C2\u00B0\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nwould fly from no other enemy. He instanced one case\nin which a friend of his was so sensitive to their bites,\nthat he had to stop every half-hour on the march to wash\naway the blood which was pouring from his head and\nface.\nWe had all manner of stories that night, for amongst\nSir Donald's guests were\u00E2\u0080\u0094Mr Shaughnessy, the Vice-\nPresident of the Canadian Pacific Railway; the Rev-\nMr Barclay, whom many of you may have heard of, as\nhe was colleague with Dr Macgregor, at St Cuthbert's,\nEdinburgh, for some years before going to the Montreal\ncongregation, by whom he is held in such high esteem ;\nand last, but not least, Father Lacombe, a priest missionary amongst the Indians, who has given all his life to\ntheir cause. I have had a photograph of him engraved\nso that you may have a glimpse of the kindly, noble old\nface. He lives far away in the North-West, and is not\noften seen in civilised haunts, but his name is everywhere\nloved and respected among Protestants and Roman\nCatholics alike. His life of love and whole-hearted\ndevotioin to his mission has gained for him enormous\ninfluence amongst \"mes sauvages,\" as he playfully calls\nthe Indians. For instance, when the Canadian Pacific\nRailway Company first began to lay out their railway\nthrough the red man's territory, there were rumours,\nand more than rumours, that the wild \"Bloods\" and\n\" Blackfeet\" meditated wrecking the pathway of the FatherLacombe. 32\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nII\niron fiend which threatened their solitudes. Father\nLacombe's aid was invoked as mediator, and the\n\"Bloods\" and the \"Blackfeet\" buried the hatchet.\nHis talk with us will always be a happy remembrance;\nhis fatherly solicitude over his flock, and the way\nin which he identifies himself with them is most touch\ning.\n\"You must never drive the Indians, or frighten\nthem; you must draw them by ever telling them of\nthe love of the Father.\" Only once, he told us, was\nhe in momentary danger from any Indian. An Indian\nlad had been falling into bad ways, and Father Lacombe\ntold him that if he persisted in these ways he would\nsurely reap the fruits of his sin. A few days later the\nboy was ill, and Father Lacombe went to see him, and,\nlaying his hand on his knee, asked him how he was.\nThe boy jumped up in a fury, and seizing a knife, made\na lunge at the missionary, which, fortunately, the latter\neluded by a rapid movement. The boy had remembered\nthe words spoken to him a few days before, and thought\nthat Father Lacombe had the power to bring punishment\nand death upon him by merely touching him. Amongst.\nother work done for the Indian by this good man has\nbeen the making of grammars and translations of parts\nof the Bible, and other books for their use. He says\nthat when he is quite worn. out with active work, he will\ncome and build a Hermitage near Haddo House, and\nwrite books for and about his Indians. Montreal.\n33\nSome day I must tell you of other missions amongst\nthe Indians, of the Church of England's Mission, and\nof our Presbyterian Church Mission, which are doing\nsplendid work, and for which I would like to ask your\nsupport. To-day I have simply told you our impressions.\nof one who is surely following Christ, if ever man did,\nand taking His message of love and mercy to dark souls,\nand to whom, therefore, all Christians can with heart and\nsoul say, \" God speed.\" Meanwhile I must tell you how\nMr Barclay joined with Pere Lacombe in telling us of\nthe North-West. He had gone with the Canadian troops\nas chaplain, on the expedition to quell the last insurrection amongst the half-breeds, and we were told on*all\nhands how magnificent his tall manly figure looked in\nuniform, and how his conduct with the troops won for\nhim universal respect. I wish you could have heard\nhim describing the services he had in far out-of-the-way\nplaces on the Sabbaths. The military band led the\npsalms and hymns, and the host of men's voices rose up\nin the open air, in regions where divine worship had\nnever before awakened echoes, and amongst the worshippers were found lonely settlers who had for years been\nfar from any church, and who hailed this opportunity of\njoining in public prayer and praise once more, and to\nwhose eyes the sound of the well-known tunes brought\ntears of joy. .\nOne more glimpse must I give you of the interior of\nc 34.\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nSir Donald's hospitable mansion\u00E2\u0080\u0094not of his library,\nlined with the beautiful red wood of California and\nBritish Columbia; not of his unique Japanese room,\nwhere you might spend hours in examining curiosities\nwhich can be seen nowhere else out of Japan; not of his\nbeautifully decorated drawing-rooms; but of one picture\nin his picture gallery. It is full of other treasures, but\nthis is the one you would most like to see. It is painted\nby a French artist, and the scene is in France. A number\nof peasant girls, their heads veiled, after foreign custom,\nare passing up the lane to the little church in the distance,\ntheir friends standing about in groups invoking blessings\non the young lives about to dedicate themselves to God's\nservice. In the foreground of the picture we have a\ntouching scene of one family kissing and blessing their\nown child, about to join her companions. Grandparents\nand parents lift up their hands and eyes to Heaven on\nbehalf of their darling, whose face bears a look of such\nhumility, and love, and steadfastness, that one turns\naway from the picture with the sense that one has been\nstanding on hallowed ground.\nBut the boat which is to take us westward is waiting\nfor us at Lachine, and if we are to arrive at Hamilton\nnext month we must hurry westwards. So, good-bye,\nSir Donald, and good-bye to your guests; but au revoirf 8 IV.\nA CANADIAN LAKE VOYAGE.\nIt\nTHAT was a mistake when I said the boat was waiting\nfor us at Lachine ! I must have been thinking of\nthe Lachine Rapids, which are one of the sights which\nall right-minded visitors to Montreal go and see, and\ndown which they generally descend in a steamer. We\nhad fully intended to include them in our programme,\nbut want of time and heavy rain prevented our going,\nand so I cannot give you the description of an eyewitness. There are a number of these rapids on the\nSt. Lawrence, those of Lachine being the best known.\nThey presented formidable obstacles to the early explorers, until the Indians guided them over the dangers\nin their bark canoes. It is said that the safest course\nfor the steamboats to take was discovered by first\nshooting the .rapids on rafts, on the bottom of which\nwere nailed many spikes of wood, and the deepest\ncourse was then known by examining which spikes had\nbeen broken off by contact with the rocks, and which\nremained intact.\nA somewhat risky experience ? But think of the i\nA Canadian Lake Vo\"yage.\n37\nanxiety which the first captain must have suffered who\ntook a steamer full of passengers down this succession\nof waterfalls, with rocks which can be touched on either\nside with a boat-hook. It is not thought much of a feat\nnow, however, when it is done every day in the utmost\nsafety.\nWe determined to make the most of our last day\nat Montreal, and so, instead of joining the boat either\nat Montreal itself or at Lachine, we left late in the\nafternoon by train to Coteau, about 30 miles west of the\ncity. There we had ordered a \" machine \" to meet us to\ndrive us for the mile and a half between the station and\nthe river. But our \" machine \" did not turn up, and we\nfell to the mercy of a youthful Jehu, with an extremely\nshaky and antediluvian trap, who took a mischievous\npleasure in landing us ever and anon in deep black ruts\nwith which the road abounded, looking back with a\ntwinkle to enjoy the anxious glances of his passengers at\nthe angle in which the frail wheels found themselves during\nthese plunges. But the rough transit did not blind our\neyes to the peaceful French Canadian scenes through\nwhich we were passing, nor to the gorgeousness of the\ngolden sunset which was glorifying the whole landscape.\nSoon we were established in our new abode, the \" Cor-\nsican,\" with its clean cabins and attentive stewards, and\nits genial, sailor-like captain, who had been navigating\nthe river for twenty-eight years, but who came originally .\nfl 3\u00C2\u00BB\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\ni i\nfrom Maidenhead. He was good enough to invite us to\nhis own upper deck, near the steersman's cabin, and once\nhaving clambered up the precipitous ladder which led\nthither, we enjoyed a magnificent view. That first evening was lovely; the glow of the sunset melting into full\nmoonlight in an incredibly short space of time, and we\nsat and sketched, and congratulated ourselves on having\ntaken the boat instead of the hot stuffy train. Next day\nwas too hazy and grey for a proper view of the far famed\n\"Thousand Islands,\" through which the \"Corsican\"\nthreaded her passage. No name could better describe\nthe scene than the \" Thousand Islands.\" The broad\nriver, which, at places, is seven miles across, is literally\nstudded with islands of all shapes and sizes, some scarcely\nmore than a rock on which a bush has taken root, others\nlarge enough to maintain a small colony. Nearly every\nisland has its villa and its flag, and its little pier with\nbrightly coloured pleasure-boats lying around. Steam\nlaunches ply busily from one point to another, whistling\nimportantly their approach, while fishermen are seen\npursuing their craft devotedly in every little bay. The\nair resounds with the laughter of picnic parties; for this\nis one of the great holiday haunts of the Americans, and\nat night the villas and the hotels vie one with another as\nto who can best illuminate their respective islands. It is\ntherefore a gay and attractive scene that the river here\npresents, but we agreed that it has not the same imposing\ni A Canadian Lake Voyage.\n39\nbeauty that we saw further east. But now, in the afternoon,\nwe are approaching Kingston, full of historical associations, from the old days of Frontenac onwards, and which\ncommands the river in a most picturesque way. Our\ncaptain told us we could have just two hours ashore, and\nso we hurried off, desirous first of all to assure ourselves\nof the well-being of a daughter of one of Lord Aberdeen's\ntenants who had emigrated hither two or three years\nback. We found her happy and bright, and quite a\nCanadian, giving her verdict in favour of the \"new\nJ!J\n83\u00C2\u00A3|\u00C2\u00A7jgBf||\nKingston, Ontario\ncountry\" most emphatically. She had been with the\nsame mistress ever since she came out, and appeared to\nbe a great favourite with the latter. Having received this\nfurther testimony in favour of the emigration to Canada\nof the right sort of hard-working girls, we proceeded\nround the sights of the town, under the guidance of a\ngenuine Irish cabman, who did the honours, impartially\nof the Barracks, of the Military College, of the Martello\nTowers, and of the Penitentiary and the Lunatic Asylum\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2 '< 4-o\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nill\nand the Queen's College\u00E2\u0080\u0094this latter being a Presbyterian\nUniversity, presided over by the well-known and eloquent\nPrincipal Grant. Then, after a comfy little tea at the\nhotel, we scurried back in good time before the bell of\ndeparture sounded, and we sailed out into Lake Ontario\nin the rays of the setting sun in the happy delusion that\nwe were to glide over waters as smooth as the river which\nwe had just left, till we found ourselves at Toronto, which\nwe were to reach next morning.\nAlas for our hopes! We descended to supper, but\nscarcely were we seated, than swish-swash came a wave\nthrough the port hole, sweeping over glasses and plates\nin its passage. We do not know much of what happened\nin the supper saloon after that. We were each alone in\nour narrow berth bewailing our folly for having trusted\nthe-treacherous waters instead of having resorted, bag and\nbaggage, to the train at Kingston. But, at three in the\nmorning, hark, what is that whistle? What is that\nwelcome clanking of a chain ? Are we stopping ? Yes,\nindeed. And is there any chance of escape? The\nthought occurred simultaneously to two passengers, who\nappeared with wan faces and dishevelled hair at the door\nof their cabins at the same time, and confronted one\nanother with the same question. The thought was\nquickly put into action, after Lord Aberdeen had obtained\nthe kindly co-operation of the captain, who even refrained\nfrom scoffing at such deserters, and admitted that it had A Canadian Lake Voyage.\n4i\ncome up a pretty stiff and unexpected gale. And a few\nminutes later we were left rejoicing on a deserted pier\nwith naught but a tea-kettle, a plaid, and an umbrella in\nour hands. But a Robinson Crusoe inhabited that pier\n\u00E2\u0080\u0094as fate would have it, he was Cruso by name\u00E2\u0080\u0094and he\nwas like his namesake in hospitality also, and in his\nability for making the: best of whatever strangers came\nhis way. He asked not our name or our business, but\nmade us free of the office which he occupied as agent\nfor the steam-boats. He asked us if we wanted anything, he provided us with money, he volunteered to stir\nup a cab in the town to fetch us to the station a couple\nof hours later, and he showed us his method of getting\nwater out of the lake by means of a soda-water bottle\nwith a long string round the neck. What say you to this\nas a specimen of Canadian hospitality and courtesy?\nThe recipients of it Were, any way, genuinely grateful,\nand very joyfully did we balance ourselves on the edge\nof the pier in the dark, and, in the midst of the gale,\nfish for water, and then make our tea in the shelter of\nthe office, listening to the storm outside. You will think\nus very cowardly sailors, I fear; but it is no joke, I assure\nyou; and if you love not a storm at sea, remember our\nadvice and keep to the train when you come out to\nCanada. Mr Cruso was as good as his word, and in\ndue course a cabman, who had been unwillingly aroused\nout of his early morning slumbers, appeared, and about\nmm 42\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\n5 a.m. we boarded a train bound West, in which with\ndifficulty we found a corner among the half-awake passengers who had been travelling all night. From the\nwindow we caught a glimpse of our poor ship ploughing\nher way through the waves, and we congratulated ourselves afresh on our escape. We got long before her to\nToronto, but not even here at the \" Queen City \" did we\nhalt. We were to make acquaintance with her a few\ndays later under more auspicious circumstances, and so\nwe only stopped long enough to change from one train\nto another, which, skirting along a lake, brought us,\nafter an hour's journey, within sight of a most attractive\nfirst view of our new Canadian home. You shall not\nsee this view yet. I will but put you down on the\nplatform at Hamilton, and we will go on to \" Highfield,\"\nand prepare breakfast and a warm welcome for you\nthere.\nIll mil\nI\nmn\nHAMILTON.\nI\nI AM sure that any of you who have travelled will\nagree that one of its chief pleasures is coming home\nagain. And we felt almost like getting home when we\nwalked into the cool, comfortable dining-room, where\nbreakfast had been prepared for us by those of our\nhousehold who had preceded us to \" Highfield,\" the\nhouse which was to be our home whilst in Canada.\nHere is a picture of Highfield. I will but give you one\nof Hamilton, for it is a place which photographs do not\ndo full justice to. The town lies on a gently-rising slope\nround the head of a beautiful bay, and nestles under a\nsteep ridge, which stretches miles and miles away to the\nheights of Niagara. Here it shelteringly protects the\ntown, which fondly acknowledges its sway, and which\ndemands from all strangers and new-comers a due tribute\nof loyal admiration for the \" Mountain.\" As an illustration of this admiration, the day after we arrived, a boy,\nof about thirteen, came up to Lord Aberdeen as he was\nwalking in the grounds, and said, \" Is Lord Haddo at\n; ; \u00E2\u0080\u00A2\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\n44\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nIt 11\nhome?\" \"Well, no, he is not, but I am his father,\nWhat do you want with him ? \"\n\"Well, I wanted to interview him, and ask what his\nlordship thought of our city, and I wanted to put the\ninterview in my father's newspaper.\"\nLord Aberdeen was rather startled, in spite of having\nbecome somewhat familiarised to the custom of \"interviewing \" which prevails universally on the other side of the\nwater, by means of which public men make known their\nviews. He had scarcely, however, expected his eleven-\nyear old son to be called upon to give his opinions as\nyet, and he tried to explain to the youthful journalist\nthat in the old country boys were not expected to air\ntheir views so soon. But our young friend was not\neasily [baffled. He still persisted in asking \" if Lord\nHaddo had made arrangements to inspect the public\nbuildings of the city, and especially if he had visited\n'the Mountain] and what he thought of that.\" Lord\nAberdeen informed him that his boy was at that moment\nenjoying a clamber up the steep, and did his best to\nsatisfy his enterprising enquirer by expressing his own\nappreciation of the heights under whose shade they were\nstanding.\nWell, climb up this Mountain (almost on the side of\nwhich stands Highfield), in the cool of an early September\nevening, and see the town spreading itself out east and\nwest below you\u00E2\u0080\u0094wide and well-kept streets, trim lawns 46\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nii\n'\nas green as those in England, houses nestling amongst\ntrees, handsome buildings, church spires and factory\nchimneys competing for pre-eminence. And beyond\nthe city, and its manufactories, and its wharves, lies the\nbay, all gleaming with the bright colours of the setting\nsun, amid which little yachts and pleasure boats are\nmaking their way home. Our thoughts linger fondly\nover the restful days spent in this peaceful retreat, and\nI fancy that both we and our children associate Highfield\nto a great extent with sunshine and butterflies. Perhaps\nwe had a little more of the former than we cared for just\nat first\u00E2\u0080\u0094for days with the thermometer over 90 deg. in\nthe shade do not as a rule commend themselves to\nScottish-bred folk. But after all we had not much to\ngrumble at, for the heat was not accompanied by our\nmuch-dreaded foes, the blood-thirsty mosquitoes. True,\nthis race of pests, who are supposed to avoid Hamilton\nas a rule, had sent out this year an advance-guard to\nsurvey the place, and even we, though late in the season,\nheard ominous trumpetings as we laid our heads on our\npillows, but it seems that as yet they were but vegetarian\nspecimens of the race who had arrived, for none of our\nparty suffered at their hands. Nor did they suffer at\nours. We did not capture a single specimen. And this\nis a great deal to say for such an insect-hunting family as\nwe must confess ourselves to be.\nAs we sat in the pretty secluded little grounds which ^3\n\n\"3\nf\n-a.\ni j 6o\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nHuman nature is undoubtedly the same everywhere,\nand Canadians would not wish to claim for themselves\nimmunity from all faults, but they may fairly claim that-\nanyone wishing to live a free, independent, self-respecting,\nlaw-abiding, and God-fearing life, has as few impediments\nunder the government, the public life and customs, the\nbright climate, and the sanguine temperament of Canada\nand her folk as they will find in any land under the sun.\nLord Aberdeen was accused of distributing, in some\nof his speeches in Canada, what was termed \"taffy to\nthe Dominion.\" (Is this word derived from \"toffee,\" I\nwonder ? Anyway it means something sweet.) Perhaps I\nshall be accused of following in his footsteps. Well, we\ncan only speak of that we do know, and what we have\nseen, and I can honestly say that I am not conscious of\nhaving flattered. Next month I invite you to accompany\nus to some of Canada's autumn fairs, and to see some of\nher products.\ninn\n- ^^.J^!^^w^'K-^^.^^&>^'^^iC'^ '\n1\nVI.\nTORONTO.\nWHAT a rash promise I made last month ! I\nbelieve I promised to escort you to some of\nthe well-known Autumn Fairs of Canada, and now that\nthe time has come for me to fulfil my promise, and I\nhave begun to look up my notes, my heart misgives me,\nand I have almost a mind to throw you over. For how\ncan I do justice to all that we saw ? It is one thing to\nbe guided and another thing to guide. But it is of no\nuse making excuses. I must just do my best; so come\nalong, to begin with, to the greatest of Canadian Fairs, in\nthe \" Queen City\" of Toronto. And we had begun to feel\nourselves quite familiar with Toronto, for in our house at\nHamilton was a telephone, not only communicating with\nnearly every other house in the town, and thus saving\nmany a note and interview, but having also communication with Toronto on the one side, 40 miles east of us,\nand London on the other, about 30 miles west. (Yes,\nLondon; I mean what I say\u00E2\u0080\u0094London on the Thames,\nin the county of Middlesex. Look in your geography\nbooks and you will find there is more than one London 62\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nin the world, and when you go to Canada you will learn\nalways to explain which London you mean\u00E2\u0080\u0094London,\nEngland, or London, Ontario. But, indeed, we have\nfound ourselves that the more youthful of the two\nLondons has already made its existence known in the\nOld World, for when we were in Italy last year, and\nwanted on one occasion to send a telegram to London,\nwe simply addressed it to London, without adding\nEngland. But a message came back to ask whether it\nwas London in England or in Canada that we meant!)\nBut our first real personal acquaintance with Toronto\nwas made on the opening day of what is familiarly known\nin the country as \" Canada's Greatest Fair.\" Here every\nautumn congregate thousands and thousands of agriculturists, fruit-raisers, manufacturers, and pleasure-seekers.\nThe Fair goes on for a fortnight, and is held in grounds\nof 60 acres of public land, specially set apart for the\npurpose for two months in the year, and on which handsome buildings have been erected for exhibition purposes,\nand are maintained by the Exhibition Committee.\nThese grounds are found too small now for the exhibition of all the stock that is brought from all parts of the\nDominion, not to speak of the agricultural machinery in\nwhich Canada excels, and the specimens of manufactured\ngoods of every description, from pianos and organs, and\nreally beautiful articles of furniture, down to the humblest\nof household necessaries. And not only the useful was J\n\u00C2\u00AB 64\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nprovided for, but the ornamental, and the amusing also,\nwere given their full place. Trotting races, the Wild\nWest Show\u00E2\u0080\u0094a performance after the manner of Buffalo\nBill, with cow-boys and wild Indians and buck-jumping\nhorses, and side performances of all kinds\u00E2\u0080\u0094were all to\nhand for the diversion of those who were not interested in\nthe all-absorbing agricultural work and prospects of the\ncountry, i And in spite of the Vast concourse of people\nassembling daily (it is reckoned that 300,000 visitors\nattended the Fair each week), there was a remarkable\nabsence of any disorderly conduct or unseemly language.\nAll strangers are struck by the good behaviour of the\ncrowd, and by the evidence it gives of the high moral tone\nprevailing in Canada, and which, amongst other results,\nshews itself in a popular agreement that no intoxicating\ndrinks shall be sold on the grounds during the Fair.\nLord Aberdeen had the honour done him to be asked\nto open this vast Exhibition, and to give an address\non the occasion, and it was then that we first visited\nToronto, and that we were first brought into contact\nwith a Canadian crowd. The opening ceremony is\nsomewhat a trying one, for it takes place in the open air,\nthe speakers occupying a platform given up afterwards\nto acrobats and jugglers, and having to address a vast\ncrowd in an amphitheatre opposite, with the racing-course\nintervening. The ordeal, however, was safely got through,\nand the audience were very kind, and appeared satisfied. fclt\nToronto.\nBut I must return to our Toronto Fair, and I feel I\nought to take you round the Dog Show, and the Poultry\nShow, and the Honey Show, all of which were excellent;\nand then I ought to tell you of all the strange implements for sowing, and reaping, and binding, and digging,\nand I do not know what besides; and then we ought to\nsee the roots and the vegetables, and the magnificent\nshow of fruit; and then we ought to stand in the ring,\nand see the Herefords, and the Shorthorns, and our\nown Aberdeen-Angus cattle being led out, and seeming\nvery nfuch at home, and the Clydesdales, too, and the\nroadsters, and the wonderful jumping-horse \" Rosebery,\"\nwho cleared the seven-feet jump easily. Besides there are\nthe Manitoba exhibits, and those from the North-West\nand British Columbia. And there are the birds, and the\ninsects, and the snakes to be seen. Well, what do you\nsay to going through all these shows, and my pointing\nout the merits of each exhibit ? If you were wise you\nwould not absolutely trust yourself to my knowledge on\nall these subjects, even though I had the benefit of being\nshown all by our most kind friend, Captain Macmaster,\nVice-President of the Fair. But even if you would, I\nam afraid you would not care for a whole number of the\nMagazine to be devoted to Canada, which would be the\nresult of your rashness, and if you or any of your friends\nwant to know more in detail about the agricultural\nresources of the country, I would advise you to write to\ne\nI! 66 Through Canada with a Kodak.\nthe High Commissioner for Canada, 17 Victoria Street,\nLondon, S.W., and ask for some of the reports on\nCanada made by the British tenant-farmers, who went\nout in 1891, on the invitation of the Canadian Govern-\n-v. ee\nCaptain Macmaster\nment andjvisited every part of the country, and who have\nmade most valuable reports on all they had jseen/!;ifor\nthe use of those wanting full and reliable information. Toronto.\n67\nSome of these tenant-farmers were present at the Toronto\nFair the same day as we were (on our second visit), and\nwe saw them going about everywhere making notes.\nBut I have told you nothing yet of our host at Govern-\nff\nifi\nGovernment House, Toronto.\nment House, where we stayed for the night. We had\nhad the good fortune to be fellow-passengers across the\nAtlantic with the Lieutenant-Governor of Ontario, Sir\nAlexander Campbell,* and he had proved the best and\nI\n* Sir Alexander Campbell died in May 1892, after these letters were published.4 68\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nkindest of friends, both as regards bodily and mental\nwants, for as to the former, he had made us free of his\nprivate provision of tea and butter, and Devonshire\ncream, and as to the latter, he told us much which\nenabled us to feel that we knew a good deal about\nii\nSir Alexander Campbell,\nlate Lieutenant-Governor oj Ontario.\nCanada before we got there. He has lived a long life of\npublic usefulness to his adopted country, and we count the\nfriendship with which he honoured us as one of the solid\ngains which our trip to Canada brought us. And now, Toronto.\n69\nhe and his daughter, Miss Marjorie Campbell, took care\nof us in their pleasant Government House, and through\ntheir kindness we made other friends\u00E2\u0080\u0094amongst others,\nMr Mowat, the Hon. Prime Minister of Ontario, and the\nSpeaker of the Dominion Senate, the Hon. Mr Allan;\nand we renewed acquaintance with our friend, Mr Edward\nBlake, one of the leaders.of the Opposition, and a well-\nknown orator and statesman. Then Sir Alexander drove\nme all round the city next morning, and showed me the\nnew and the old parts, the Queen's Park, and the different colleges and schools, and the beautiful University\nBuildings, which were in large parts destroyed by fire\nlast year. They still presented a grand appearance, and\nI am happy to say they are to be worthily restored.\nNow for a peep at the London Fair, and then both\nyou and I must have a rest. A bad cold unfortunately\nprevented me from accompanying Lord Aberdeen to\nLondon, as I much wanted to do, but he came home\nfull of praise of the bright appearance of this young city\nof 35,000 inhabitants, which goes by the name of the\n\" Forest City,\" on account of the great number of trees\nplanted along the well-laid broad streets. I have given\nyou two peeps of London and its surroundings, but must\nleave you to imagine the rest, as I cannot give a personal\nreport. But one thing I can tell you. Just after we left\nCanada, a very spirited little monthly paper for women\nIf\nif\nMl\nwas started in London, called Wives and Daughters fi\n70 Through Canada with a Kodak.\never any of you go to Canada I advise you to take it in,\nand meanwhile I hope to give you extracts from it now\nand again. And now, Good-night, ladies and gentlemen.\nI hope that my inefficiency as a guide to the agricultural\nfairs will not prevent you from allowing me to conduct\nyou to the Falls of Niagara, and then to Canada's capital,\nand then we must hie away West. But now once more,\nGood-night ! VII.\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\n.1 ',\n( '\n1\nOTTAWA.\nON second thoughts, I think we had better not\nlinger at Niagara. You must have heard it\ndescribed so often, and have seen so many pictures of it,\nthat we should be going over what you would feel to be\nwell-known ground. So I will only give you a little\npicture of these wonderful falls, and then pass on.\nOnly do not you ever think that you can have the\nslightest conception of what \" the Falls \" are really like\nuntil y\u00C2\u00A9u have been there, until you have stood and\ngazed at them, and have looked at them from this point\nand from that, above and below, here where they are\nabout to precipitate themselves in a wild surging flood\nover the cliffs, and there where the mighty volume of\nwater, having poured itself down over the crags and\nrocks in grand magnificence, convulses itself into terrific\nand seemingly useless fury in its efforts to make its way\nalong its course. Watch, and look, and listen to the\nroar of many waters, and go back again and again, and\nthen you will know what you have felt Niagara to mean,\nthough you may never be able to describe it.\n\"\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 flfF\n'\u00E2\u0096\u00A0it>\n72\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nIt is the Niagara district that shares with that immediately round Hamilton, the distinction of producing the\nfinest fruit in the Dominion, as well as the greatest\nquantity. And we found that reputation to be in no\nwise exaggerated when we visited the Fair at Hamilton\nand saw the rows and rows of apples and pears, and\npeaches, of all sizes and descriptions; and then the\ngrapes ! Why have I not a photograph to show you the\nlong piled-up tables, covered with lovely clusters of\nbloom-covered grapes ! The \" Niagara \" white grape is\nsupposed to be the best of the varieties of Canadian\nopen-air grapes, all of which have a taste somewhat\npeculiar to themselves and not liked by everybody.\nSpeaking from experience, I can only say that we thought\nwe had never tasted better grapes in our lives, than some\nwhich we gathered, growing in a perfectly wild state up\nthe cliffs, near Dundas, where we had scrambled up in\npursuit of butterflies and a most splendid view. Some\nday you will have a better chance of tasting Canadian-\ngrown grapes when more special arrangements are made\nfor their conveyance by the steamers. As it is, if you\nwant the best apples in the market, you will always ask\nfor \" Niagara \" apples. But we are lingering too long in\nthe fruit orchards of Ontario, and we must repair to\nthe station again at Hamilton and take our tickets for\nOttawa, the capital of the Dominion; for Ottawa, which,\nsome twenty-five years ago, went by the name of Bye- 9ftV'' ' * -_v;\"-i...\n1\nFalls of Niagara I\n74\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\ntown, a Hudson Bay Company station and a centre for\nthe lumberers.M Now at a distance we see the proud\ntowers of the Parliament Houses and Government\nBuildings, commanding the heights above the river, and\nwe see a town which, though far smaller than Montreal,\nAbove Niagara.\nor Toronto, or even Hamilton, can well challenge comparison in point of her picturesque situation, and one\nwhich must, from all accounts, be a centre of brightness\nand mirth all through the merry Canadian winter. She\nowes her position as capital to the fact that when all the mt\nawaftBS 76\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\ndifferent provinces in Canada were confederated into\none Dominion in 1866, there was too much jealousy\nbetween the great cities of Montreal and Toronto to\nallow of either of these being chosen, and so the Queen\nvss^smssSSt\nLord Stanley.\nchose the little Indian town of Ottawa, standing on the\nconfines of Quebec and Ontario, to be the centre of\nGovernment. We spent some most interesting days Ottawa.\n77\nhere. I will but mention our visit to Sir John Macdonald,\nand the kindness with which he received us, for I cannot\nattempt a task which would take too long, viz., to tell you\nabout the statesmen and leaders of political life in Canada\n~i!Z&^i$&lg&\ng^P^i^^^^^^S!5?KWT^-,-f^r\u00C2\u00AB<5\nCo\nIf\nSi\nI 90 Through Canada with a Kodak.\nfacilities hard by, or try your snow-shoes, or summon a\nsleigh and have a bewitching drive to the sound of the\njangling bells along the smooth, dry, hard, snow-covered\nroads. I go to prepare our car for our Westward trip.\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A21 \u00E2\u0080\u00A2\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\u00E2\u0080\u00A2 VIII.\nACROSS THE PRAIRIES.\nI\nNOW, in with you, if you do not want to be left\nbehind! And please remember that you have\nto keep your wits about you during this journey when\nyou get out at railway stations. We have left the\nwhistles behind us in the old country, and in their stead\nyou hear a bell, which at first reminds you more than\nanything else of the bell of a country church or school,\nand when you hear that bell, scramble in as best you\nCan,, for there will be no slamming of carriage doors, no\ncrying of \" Take your seats,\" no guard's whistle as a last\nwarning. The conductor calls \" All aboard,\" but if the\ntrain is a long one, you are as likely as not to miss hearing\nhim. And at every station where we stop you will see\nafter the train has actually started, a rush of stragglers\nscrambling up on the \" platforms\" at either end of the\nlong cars. Of course you know that trains in America\nare not at all like those in this country. Here you have\na picture of our car, and all the carriages are constructed\non this principal with a platform at each end, over which\n1 02\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nIf 111\nii\nIt\nyou can pass when the train is in motion. People\nwalk from one carriage to another, and during the long\nAll Aboard!\" Across the Prairies.\n93\njourneys dining-cars are attached at certain hours of the\nday, where passengers can go and have their meals, and\nfeel very much as if they were in a moving hotel. Little\ntables for two or four people are placed down each side\nit\nii\nThe Car in which we travelled West.\nof the long car, the waiters move up and down the\npassage between the tables, and the kitchen is at one\nend. Cooking under these circumstances must be rather\ndifficult, but in our experience the results were very\nsatisfactory. When we had our first meal on board one\nof these cars, we thought that we must be specially 94\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nfortunate in having an out-of-the-way well managed car\nattached to the train; but, as we went further, and new\ncars came on every day, we found that the rule was for\neverything to be well done, for the attendants to be\ncourteous and obliging. This is only one illustration of\nthe fact that if you hear that the Canadian-Pacific Railway has undertaken to do anything, whether it concerns\nthe piercing of the Rocky Mountains or the making of\ngood soup, you may be sure that it will be well and\nthoroughly done. Now this is saying a good deal, and\nmoreover, we can guarantee that it is true according to\nour experience, and not merely according to the words of\nadvertising agents and attractive little guide-books, which\nat times are rather deceptive. Certainly we ought to\nspeak up for that railway if anyone ought, for we were\nroyally treated by being provided with a beautiful new\ncar all to ourselves, in which we could shut ourselves off\ninto comfortable little rooms at night, when partitions\nwere put up, and curtains drawn, and beds pulled down\nby our faithful porter, John (who ministered to all our\nwants most assiduously), and during the day could be\nused as one long sitting-room, panelled with pretty white\nmahogany, where we read, and wrote, and painted, and\nwhere we had many a pleasant little tea-party during the\nfour weeks while we inhabited it.\nWe thought we had chosen quite the best time of year\nfor our trip, although it might be considered a little late\nWW Across the Prairies.\n95\nby some, for when we woke up the first morning after\nleaving Ottawa, we found ourselves passing through roads\nall flaming with the gorgeous autumnal tints of the maple\n???\u00C2\u00AB'\nJohn Barber, our Car-Porter.\nand other trees, and underneath the trailing leaves of\nvarious berry-bearing plants made a carpet of rich yellows,\nand reds, and browns. I think, if I am to be truthful, I\nmust admit that this scenery would have borne rather\n111\n' : : \ I\n96\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nwd\\na forbidding aspect if it had not been for these rich\ncolourings, and we can scarcely wonder if newly-arrived\nemigrants bound Westward feel rather depressed at passing through a stretch of such apparently sterile country\nA Young Settlement.\nat the outset of their journey. The trees are stunted,\nthe vegetation allows us to see the stony character of the\nsoil below; some of the telegraph poles even have to be\nupheld by heaps of stones around them, and the desolation is often rendered greater by many of the trees\nhaving been the prey of forest fires, the result either of II\nfil\nAcross the Prairies.\n97\nthe carelessness* of settlers or Indians, or arising from\nsparks from the engine falling on the dry inflammable\nsubstances all around. And yet this region has charms\nof its own\u00E2\u0080\u0094the fishermen can tell of the wealth to be\nfound in the rivers and lakes, the geologist and the miner\nwill tell you of the yet comparatively unexplored riches\nof silver and copper and other metals which are stored\nup for Canada's children beneath the unpromising looking surface, and the artist will revel in the wild grandeur\nof the mountain and lake scenery all along the coast of\nLake Superior. A succession of magnificent promontories, frowning rocks and crags, surrounding the lovely\nbay of that vast expanse of water calling itself a lake,\nmeets your eye as the train bears you along, and you lay\ndown your pencil and brush in bewilderment as to which\npoint, to seize amidst so much beauty, and instead, you\nrevert to the faithful rapid Kodak to record your\nmemories of Thunder Bay, and Jackfish Bay, and the\nLake of the Woods, and many another spot of beauty.\nAnd then one day as you wake up and peep out behind\nthe blind of your car, the mountain, and the lake, and\nthe torrent have disappeared, and instead you behold a\nvast stretch of grassy country, and you realise that you\nsee before you the far-famed wheat-lands of Manitoba,\nand that Winnipeg, the City of Prairies, lies hard by.\nAt Winnipeg we felt almost as if we had a home\nawaiting us, for our friend, Sir Donald Smith, about\nG 98\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nwhose generosity to his native country I have told you\nbefore, had written to us even before we left England,\nand had bidden us to come to his house at Silver Heights,\nand to make ourselves at home. And so, on the verandah of Silver Heights we were assembled with my\n^re\u00C2\u00ABt\n^^*^l^^w^^S^\u00C2\u00AEkir^^^^^^*^^S\nSfgj\nMr O'Brien (who christened the Lake of Killarney) and his wife\ntalking to Lord Aberdeen.\nbrother (who met us here), and Mr Traill, Sir Donald's\nmanager. Here, too, are Sir Donald's buffaloes, the\nlast remaining in Canada of the millions who used to\ninhabit the prairies, and whose bones you still see in\ndismal heaps as you pass along.\nw Across the Prairies.\n99\nAnd now, what am I to say about Winnipeg ? It is\n700 feet above the sea level, it has a population of\n28,000 (twenty years ago there were only 215 inhabitants), it has some fine buildings, wide streets, it is lighted\n1\nI\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2.\ni\nAH that is left of the buffalo.\nwith electric light, it is a great railway centre, and is\ndestined to become a great capital. You still, however,\ncan see how recent is its birth, for side by side with a\nfine house stands an old Red River settler's log hut, the\nwide streets are still mostly unpaved, and on a wet day IOO\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nit\ni\nserve as admirable illustrations of the richness and the\nblackness of Manitoba soil, and you still see passing\nthrough the city by the side of a carriage and pair, the\nold Red River carts made entirely of wood, creaking as\nthey go. The rate of progress amazes the inhabitants\nthemselves, and it is very pleasant to hear stories of\nthings as they were and as they are. For instance, look\nat this dog-carriage; that is the vehicle in which the\nGovernor and his wife used to be transported to Ottawa\nnot so many years ago. Rather a different business\nnow-a-days, is it not?. We must not linger long here,\nmuch as I should like to tell you of the many impressions left on our minds by Winnipeg, its inhabitants and\nits surroundings, and of all the truly_Scotch hospitality\nwith which we were entertained whilst there, and again\non our return journey, not only by Sir Donald Smith,\nand the Lieut.-Governor, Mr Schultz, and his wife, but\nby many other friends of whose kindness we cherish\ngrateful memories.\nOne of the impressions most strongly left on our\nminds by our stay in Winnipeg was the strongly marked\nreligious tone of the community. This is not only\nshown by the number of churches and religious institutions, but in the evident earnestness of purpose, which\ncauses people who have but little spare time in this young\ncity, to devote themselves to active works of religion and\nbenevolence. The great scarcity of servants often throws a \u00C2\u00A3\n1\n\"&\nN\nb\nI-\nill ii mi\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0llliSi\n&E&\n102 Through Canada with a Kodak.\nlarge part of the household work on the ladies themselves,\nand yet they contrive to throw themselves into Christian\nwork, and to take charge personally of the orphans and\nthe aged poor, and to befriend the stranger in a way\nwhich may well put us to shame. One of their latest\norganisations undertakes to send out monthly parcels of\nliterature to settlers in Manitoba and the North-West.\nIt is difficult for those at home to realise the isolation of\nsuch settlers; everything has to be begun and carried\nI on by' the work of their own hands, and their whole\nthoughts are absorbed by the desperately hard work\nwhich is an essenual for success^ Church is far away,\nthere are no libraries or reading-rooms or means of self-\nimprovement at hand, and the temptation must be great\nin such lives to forget mind and soul in the struggle for\nmaterial prosperity. Those who stay at home and have\nfriends in these distant parts sfiould remember that Moe\ngreater kindness can be shewn than by sending out good\nweekly newspapers and magazines, perhaps a picture\nnow and again to brighten up the walls of $ie wooden\nhouse, perhaps some flower seeds from the garden at\nhome, which will bring tender thoughts to the minds Of\nthose now so far away, and who will teach their children\nto tend the little plants sent by \" grannie \" or \" auntie,\"\nand so make them think of doing their best to make\ntheir homes beautiful and home-like. Frugality, and\nself-denial, and *SfnBfigtTrUf character are developed by\nI %: fog\nAcross the Prairies.\n103\nthe stern life which must be led by the settler in\nManitoba who means to prosper. It is our part to do\nour best to prevent the possibility of these sterner virtues\nfrom becoming too stern, and from growing into a mere\npassion to get on and to make money. And if you have\nno friends in Canada yourselves, may I ask those who\nare willing to do so to save up their papers, and pictures,\nand magazines, and to send them to\u00E2\u0080\u0094Madame Gautier,\ntheL.A. Association for distributing Literature to Settlers,\nWinnipeg, Manitoba. The ladies of this Association are\ndeluged with applications for monthly packets of such\nliterature, and find that packets containing consecutive\nissues of the same magazine are those most valued. They\nwill be very gratified for all contributions, helpful for mind,\nand heart and soul, and tending to give thoughts which will\nuplift the common daily work which would otherwise be\ndrudgery.\nNow let me tell you of a visit we paid to some new\nsettlers from Scotland who are amongst those who need\nhelp and sympathy to be shown in this way. And first\nI will quote from a letter from Sir George Baden Powell\nto the Daily Graphic to explain how they came over\nfrom Scotland :\u00E2\u0080\u0094 J-e\nthe emigration fund.\nThe general public\u00E2\u0080\u0094and so many are now-a-days interested in\nemigration and colonisation\u00E2\u0080\u0094will remember that the scheme was\ninaugurated in 1888, when the Government finally decided to offer\nL m\n104\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\n;\u00C2\u00A3 10,000 if another ^2000 was given by private charity. At first\nthe Fund was administered by the Scotch Office, under the personal guidance of Lord Lothian, but in the second year a special\nColonisation Board was appointed, consisting of representatives\nof the Imperial and Canadian Governments, the private subscribers,\nand the land companies aiding the experiment. The proposal was\n!\nManilou, Manitoba.\nto select and import to Manitoba such families among the crofters\nas might apply. It was estimated that a sum of ^120 per family\nwould be sufficient to establish them on the 160-acre lots offered\nthem by Canada. This sum was to be eventually repaid by each\nfamily, security being meanwhile given by a mortgage on the holding and on the goods and chattels.\nm Across the Prairies.\n105\nTHE FIRST SENT OUT.\nIn May, 1888, eighteen families were despatched, and twelve\nmore families followed in June of the same year. In April, 1889,\nforty-nine families were sent out. The journey from Scotland to\nManitoba was accomplished not without grumbling on the part of\nthe discontented. The first parties were sent rather late in the\nseason, and extra efforts had to be made to provide them with\nnecessaries for the first winter. Many of the crofters gave evidence\nat once of .an indolent reliance on charity, and maintained that\nGovernment was to find a home for, and even clothe them. But\nthe spirit of the country soon fell upon them ; there was work and\nhope in the atmosphere; by the second year actual crops gave\nearnest for the future, and by the third, with its excellent harvest,\nindolence and grumbling had been completely pushed aside and\nforgotten, in habits of hard work and confidence in a future of\nplenty and success.\nMEETING WITH DIFFICULTIES.\nThe second batch of emigrants also met with difficulties at the\noutset. Eighteen families enhanced their difficulties by refusing to\ntake the lands chosen for them, and wandering afield to find\nothers. The heads of some of these wandering families, making,\nafter all, but a poor selection of lands, fell to the temptation of\nexcellent wages in a distant lumber industry, and after a while\ndeserted their holdings, and somehow found the means of transferring themselves and their families hundreds of miles to the wage-\nearning locality. Possibly they will return to their holdings, especially as all who remained are now doing well, and feeling more than\ncontented ; the very greatest original grumbler among them on first\narrival declaring that now no power on earth shall drag him from\nhis holding. io6\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\n.1?\nIi\n:\nAT WORK IN CANADA.\nThese crofters have now built for themselves very comfortable'\nhouses; they own working oxen, milk cows, and even horses ;\nthey are accused of having bought more waggons and reapers and\nbinders and other agricultural machines than they have need of;\nand, as I pointed out at the beginning of this article, the actual\nGreetings from a group of Manitobans at Manitoba.\nresults of their labours are to place each family in a fair way to own\na prosperous farm of 160 acres. Some live close by lakes and\nstreams, affording plenty of good trout and wild fowl. Good\nschool and kirk accommodation is already provided, and there can\nbe no doubt but that in another three years these settlements will\nbe among the most well-to-do of the prairie \"locations.\" Lord\nLothian is certainly to be congratulated upon the success of his\nexperiment. Across the Prairies.\n107\nMr Scarth, Dominion Member of Parliament for\nWinnipeg, took great personal trouble in the settling of\nthese Highland crofters, and he and Mrs Scarth lived\namongst them for the first few weeks, when they arrived\nas strangers, without friends, and had to be camped out\nin tents. He now kindly made all arrangements for us\nto visit the settlement, and I will give] you a few extracts\nfrom my journal about our visit, written at the time, along\nwith some pictures which tell their own tale:\u00E2\u0080\u0094\nTuesday, October 7th, 1890.\u00E2\u0080\u0094Went to little hotel for breakfast, and by nine were ready for our start. Killarney rather a\nrespectable little place for four years old. Mr Lalor, the local\nmerchant, who has taken great charge of the Highland crofters\nwhom we had come to see, had arranged to drive us at Mr Scarth's\nrequest. So off we went, A., Coutts, Mr Lalor, and myself, in\nwhat they call a \"Democrat,\" a sort of long, four-wheeled cart,\nwith two seats, one behind the other. It was a perfect day for our\nforty miles drive across the prairie ; not much sun, but a bright\nshining always in the long fleecy clouds, which extend themselves\nin long, long stretches of manifold shapes in the way which we have\ncome to look upon as especially Canadian. No wind, but an indescribably brisk bracing air, which we want to inhale in long\nbreaths all the while. And, as we thought when travelling on a\nprevious occasion in Texas and Dakota, driving on the prairie and\non the trails running through the prairies is unlike any other driving.\nThe soft elasticity of the ground carries one over all the bumps, and\njars, and ruts; and roots and hillocks are all passed over as the\nmost natural things in the world. But with all this, I am not going\nto rave about the scenery of Manitoba; for to a mountain bred visitor\n111 io8 Through Canada with a Kodak.\nthese everlasting prairies, with their serpentine black trails winding\nthrough them, appear, on first acquaintance at any rate, inexpressibly dreary.\nOf course to-day we have been going through land but newly\ntaken up, and there has not yet been time for the desire for beauty\nor comfort to grow. The struggle to live has naturally swallowed\nup all the energy of the settlers, and it has been quite the exception\nto see even any attempt after the commonest sort of tidiness, much\nless any effort to nurture a few flowers, a plant, or a tree. But the\nManitobans have shown that they value education, for little schools\nare planted down everywhere where there are fifteen children to\nattend, and the teachers are not badly paid. We went into one of\nthese schools to-day, where there are about twenty children, and a\npleasent looking young man, an M.A., who also has a farm in the\nneighbourhood, was teaching them. He said the great difficulty\nwas the irregularity of attendance, which made his work resemble\nthat of Sisyphus and become real drudgery. Such country schools\nare shut up during the winter, and in the autumn the children are\nkept away for harvest work, so that it is only the three spring\nmonths that can be depended on.\nOur first visit was to the old Irishman O'Brien, who constituted himself the god-father of the place, and insisted on its\nbeing called Killarney. I am afraid that my smothered exclamation\nof amusement on first sight of the lake, remembering our first sight\nof the real Killarney, was taken as disrespectful by our cicerone, but,\nin truth, it is the prettiest thing we have seen in Manitoba.\nAfter seven or eight miles we came to the first crofter, one John\nMacleod, who had been one of the grumblers about small things,\nbut he made no grumble to us, and said he thought he should get\nalong well now. Then came John Nicholson's section. He is one\nof the most successful, but, unfortunately he and his wife were away\nfrom home. He had his ten acres cultivated according to stipula- Across the Prairies.\n109\ntion the first year (1889), this year he had 55 ; next year he is\npreparing for 75. His wheat has been thrashed, and we saw it all\nin his new little wooden barn\u00E2\u0080\u0094900 bushels, representing about ,\u00C2\u00A3150.\nHis first barn was still standing, made of sods. Other four crofters\nto the West are relations, and all on one section, and are doing well.\nWe saw two more of the Lewes families, John Campbell and his\nP\nMr and Mrs Peter Graham's cottage.\nwife and children, in whose cottage also was old Mrs Macleod,\nwhose husband holds meetings while the missionary is away\nin the winter, Mrs Macdonald, Peter Graham and his wife, a tidy,\ncapable-looking woman with five bonny bairns. We photographed\nsome of the people and their places, though some were very un- IE\nno\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nwilling, being in their working clothes. One requires to think of\nwhat these people were before they came out, to appreciate their\npresent position and prospects. Some who came knew nothing\nabout agircultural work\u00E2\u0080\u0094one had never used a hay-fork in his life.\nAnd that they should have got on so well as they have done is very\n^\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\u00E2\u0080\u00A2\u00E2\u0096\u00A0z: --\u00E2\u0096\u00A0: \u00E2\u0096\u00A0--,\":-.:\u00E2\u0096\u00A0:!-\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\nMr and Mrs John Campbell's home.\ncreditable, both to themselves and their neighbours. After leaving\nthe crofters we came in sight of Pelican Lake, and then, descending\na steep brae, the sight of which rejoiced our hearts, we came upon a\nprosperous-looking farm, 640 acres, owned by a man whom we passed\nploughing. We stopped to ask our way, but, after all got rather\n\r Across the Prairies.\nin\nastray, and went a good bit out of our way up a rough hill, which\nlanded us on the edge of a ravine, on the other side of which was\nthe house where we were to have luncheon. A young English\nfarmer of cheery and hopeful aspect, and newly married, put us\nright again, and we were then ready for our four o'clock luncheon,\nat Mrs Darough's, at the farmhouse of Glenfern. The threshing was\ngoing on there, and they had had a busy day, vith 16 or 17 men\nThe Darough family at Glenfern.\nin to dinner. The yield had not been so good as expected, and one\nfield, from which they expected twenty-five bushels per acre, had\nonly fifteen. They were doing better to-day. That same field in\n1887 yielded 40 bushels per acre (sold at 48 cents), in 1888 it was\ndown to five bushels per acre (sold at 84 cents) in 1887 I forgot\nwhat she told me the number of bushels were, but the price was 64\ncents. The Daroughs came from Ontario, and are of Scotch 112\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nextraction. There are five sons, three working, the eldest, just\nmarried to one of the crofter girls, living on a section of his own, and\ntwo daughters, who gave us proofs of their prowess in the homemade bread and jam and pumpkin pie. But Mrs Darough said that\nsugar had\" been too dear to make much jam. All the smaller kinds\nof fruit do well, and wild berries abound. Potatoes, cabbages,\ncauliflowers, and other vegetables grow magnificently. Apples are\nnot yet a success. Coutts left us here, and we drove on to Glen-\nboro, about 21 miles further, calling in at two of the Harris crofters\nen route, Morrison and Donald Stewart. Only saw the wife of the\nlatter, who worked for Lord Dunmore until he sold the Island.\nMany messages sent to the Dunmores.\nAll the last part of the drive, which passes through rich wheat\nland and past a prosperous Scandinavian settlement, was lost on us,\nfor it had become quite dark, and our attention was concentrated on\nour driver avoiding the many vehicles returning from Glenboro\nFair\u00E2\u0080\u0094waggons, and carts, and buggies, and gigs, and droves of\ncattle and horses. He managed very creditably, and the demeanour\nof the home-going folk contrasted favourably with what might have\nbeen on some similar occasions at home. \"We started from Winnipeg soon after six, and about eight we\nhad just gone across to the dining-car and begun our dinner, when\nthere came a sudden tremendous screwing on of the brakes, a series\nof jerks, an abrupt transference of crockery and-glass from tables to\nfloor, and then the car was motionless, and all was perfectly still.\nPeople looked at one another for a moment\u00E2\u0080\u0094the same unuttered\nthought passing through each mind,\u00E2\u0080\u0094then came the tidings, ' The\nengine is off the rails !' A. rushed off with others to see what had\nH 113\nV\nm\nIX.\nIN A RAILWAY ACCIDENT.\nIN the English newspapers of last October appeared\ntelegraphic reports of a railway accident west of\nWinnipeg, finishing up with the statement that Lord and\nLady Aberdeen were on the train, and that while the\nformer went about ministering to the wants of the\nwounded, the latter took sketches of the scene. That\nwas a tolerably hard-hearted proceeding, was it not ? I\nwonder what those of our Members and Associates who\nhappened to notice this statement thought of the doings\nof their President while she was away beyond their reach.\nWell, here is the true unvarnished statement of the facts,\nas written at the time :\u00E2\u0080\u0094 jfp\n114\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nreally occurred, and we were amazed to find how much damage was\ndone, when we remembered the comparitively slight shock we had\nfelt. The engine was lying on its side, on- the bank, all crumpled\nand torn, the funnel half into the ground and still smoking away;\nthe tender, upside down across the rails, towering above the luggage-\nvan on its side. On the other side of the line, one car half down the\nbank, and three more off the rails; the three last cars, including the\ndining-car and ours, were still on the rails. No one could ascertain\nthe cause of the accident, and for a few minutes there \"was great\nsuspense as to whether any one was killed or injured. Marvellously\nand mercifully no one was killed, and the engine-driver, fire-man,\nand express messenger were only somewhat cut and bruised. The\ndriver had, with great presence of mind, turned off steam, put on the\nbrakes at the first jerk, and then jumped off; the fireman remained,\nthinking, as he himself expressed it, that the engine would \"ride\nthe ties.\"' It is wonderful how he escaped, when the part of the\nengine where he was sitting was all smashed. All in the dajk and by\nthe light of a lantern held by A., I tried to make a sketch of the\nwreck, but it was so dark and drizzling that it was rather difficult\nwork. It all looked very weird. The engine gave one the impression of a great, gasping, living thing, with its head buried in the earth,\nstill hissing and steaming in impotent misery, and, to increase the\nmystery of the scene, dark figures flitted about here, there, and\neverywhere, with lanterns, and in the near distance there loomed a\ngreat threatening fiery eye, barring our way. This latter apparition\nturned out to be the lights of the engine of a freight train, which had\nbeen waiting at the next station (Poplar Point) till'we should pass,\nand now came up to see what could be done. It was past twelve\nwhen we heard the tinkling bell announcing the arrival of the wreck-\ntrain 'with a break-down gang'from Winnipeg, (thirty-five miles\naway), with superintendent, doctor, and engineer aboard. We,\nfrom our post of vantage, at the end of the train, saw the lights k>\nI n6\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\ni\u00C2\u00BB\napproach slowly and cautiously. A party from our train were on the\noutlook for them, and motioned them to proceed by swinging a\nlantern backwards and forwards, but they crept up inch by inch\nmaking sure of their way as they came. And then all at once the\nOur Engine as photographed by the Kadok the morning after accident.\nplace was alive with groups of the new-comers, surrounding the\nremains of our .wrecked train, examining, enquiring, testing the\namount of damage done, and ere long setting to work with pickaxe and spade to remove the dSris which lay across the torn-up\nline. It was soon decided that the quickest method was to construct i\nIn a Railway Accident.\n117\na temporary new line for the few hundred yards or so which had\nbeen destroyed, and while this was being done, the uninjured cars\nwere pulled back to Raeburn, the first station back.\nOff again I\nOct. 10.\u00E2\u0080\u0094By mid-day the line was in order for us to proceed, and\na new engine was in readiness. We had already, however, walked n8\nThrough Canada with- a Kodak.\n[ ''||[\nforward to the scene of the disaster, having arranged with the conductor to be picked up by the train as it came up. We tried some\nphotos. But the weather was very dark for that. It was only now\nthat we ascertained the cause of our accident, i.e., a drove of cattle,\nwhich in the pitchy black night, were not perceived. A big ox was\nkilled, and two poor cows got their legs broken. Is it not wonderful how animals suffer in silence ? Fancy our not hearing a sound\nfrom these poor beasts under the train when we were standing\nabout! They were not discovered till the men set to work. The\nnext day as we passed, the poor cows were lying piteously on the\nbank, with such a scared look in their eyes, and making miserable\nattempts to rise. The railway people dared not put an end to their\nsufferings, lest their owners should bring an action for damages\u00E2\u0080\u0094and\nthe owners, although they had been notified of the accident had not\nyet appeared on the scene.\"\nIt is wonderful how such accidents do not occur\noftener on dark nights, when the train is passing along\nsuch vast stretches of unfenced land, over which cattle\nroam at their own free will. As it happened, there were\nfences on either side of the line at this particular spot,\nso the cattle must have strayed in by some open gate, anol\nwere doubtless lying on the track because of its comparative dryness after the deluge of rain that had been\ncoming down. You will notice in the illustration of the\nfallen engine the iron pointed contrivance in front\ninvented on purpose to guard against such mishaps. It\nis called the \" cow-catcher,\" and is intended to sweep\nany animal off the line that may be bent on self- destruction. Our accident, however, proves that it is not\nalways successful in its purpose, but I should add that\naccidents on the C.P.R. have hitherto happily been\nexceedingly rare, owing to the constant and vigilant care of\nthose in charge of the fine, and who arrange perpetual\nsupervision of every part of the track, so that all possible\ndanger may be averted.\nThe \"cow-catcher\" in front of the engine has sometimes been put to another and original use at times.\nAdventurous travellers have obtained permission to sit\non it whilst travelling through the magnificent scenery on\nthe route of the C.P.R., in order to obtain the best possible\nviews of all that is to be seen from the line. You would\nnot imagine such a position very comfortable, would you?\nBut those who have tried it speak of their experiences\nwith enthusiasm. Amongst others, Lady Macdonald,\nthe wife of the late Premier of Canada, took a trip West\non the | cow-catcher,\" of which she has written a charming account. We were not so bold, and contented ourselves with the outlook from our car, and this for two or\nthree days after leaving Winnipeg consisted solely in vast\nstretches, which the poet Bryant describes as\u00E2\u0080\u0094\nThe gardens of the Desert, these.\nThe unshorn fields, boundless and beautiful,\nFor which the speech of England has no name-\nThe Prairies. I behold them for the first,\nAnd my heart swells, while the dilated sight 120\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nTakes in the encircling vastness. Lo ! they lie\nIn airy undulations, far away,\nAs if the ocean, in his gentlest swell,\nStood still, with all his rounded billows fixed\nAnd motionless for ever.\u00E2\u0080\u0094Motionless?\nNo\u00E2\u0080\u0094they are all unchained again. The clouds\nSweep over with their shadows, and beneath\nThe surface rolls and fluctuates to the eye.\nMan hath no part in all this glorious work :\nThe hand that built the firmanent hath heaved\nAnd smoothed these verdant swells, and sown their slopes,\nWith herbage. . . . The great heavens\nSeem to stoop down upon the scene in love,\u00E2\u0080\u0094\nA nearer vault, and of a tender blue,\nThan that which bends above the eastern hills. . . .\nIn these plains the bison feeds no more, where once he\nshook\nThe earth with thundering steps\u00E2\u0080\u0094yet here I meet\nHis ancient footprints stamped beside the pool.\nStill this great solitude is quick with life,\nMyriads of insects, gaudy as the flowers\nThey flutter over, gentle quadrupeds,\nAnd birds, that scarce have learned the fear of man,\nAre here, and sliding reptiles of the ground,\nStartling beautiful. . . . The bee,\nA more adventurous colonist than man,\nWith whom he comes across the eastern deep,\nFills the savannas with his murmurings,\nAnd hides his sweets, as in the olden age,\nWithin the hollow oak. I listen long\nTo his domestic hum, and think I hear\nThe sound of that advancing multitude In a Railway Accident.\n121\nWhich soon shall fill these deserts. From the ground\nComes up the laugh of children, the soft voice\nOf maidens, and the sweet and solemn hymn\nOf Sabbath worshippers. The low of herds\nBends with the rustling of the heavy grain\nOver the dark-brown furrows. All at once\nA fresher wind sweeps by, and breaks my dream.\nAnd I am in the wilderness alone.\nAlone ! Yes, I think that settlers on the prairie must\nrealise what solitude means in a way which can scarcely\nbe understood by those living in mountainous regions.\nThe mountains and tree-clad crags seem to encircle and\nprotect those who dwell among them with so real and\nliving a personality that these can never feel \" alone \" in\ntheir company. But go to the prairie country and look\naround\u00E2\u0080\u0094you may see the bright colours of butterfly and\nflower, you may smile at the cunning looks of the little\nrabbit-like sort of creatures called \"prairie dogs,\" who\nrear themselves up on their hind legs and look at you,\nand then \"heigh,presto\" they are off; you may hear the\nrushing through the air of the flocks of wild geese overhead, on their way to their winter quarters, but of human\nhabitation you will see but scant signs. Your eye may\nscan many square miles around, and yet you may scarcely\nbe able to detect any indication of the fact that the lords\nof this rich harvest land are beginning to enter upon\ntheir inheritance. Yet it is so. And if we had paid\nour Western visit during harvest-time, we should have\nHi\ntil\n'1 pr\n:\nIII- \u00E2\u0096\u00A0\n11 III'''\n122\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nseen some such sights as you see represented in the\naccompanying pictures. When you are reading this, we\nshall be hearing rejoicing accounts of the bounteousness\nof the harvest which farmers in Manitoba and the North-\nWest have been gathering in this year without any\nA regiment of workers on the. Prairie.\nM-\ndamage from the dreaded early frosts. And I shall be\ntrying to grow wise as to the reasons why the Manitoban\nblack mud, which lies from two to four feet in depth on\nthe surface of the soil, is so rich as to produce magnificent crops without manure. Once more, too, it will be\nimpressed on us that the settlers who do best are those\n:\u00C2\u00ABr , In a Railway Accident.\n12\nwho adapt themselves most to the methods of farming\nfound successful in the new country. For instance, they\nmust not plough deep as they do at home, but only\nabout two inches, and then they must put in a crop at\nthe first breaking, as this has been found the best way of\nsubduing the sod, besides the advantage of yielding\nprofit to the farmer the first year, when his means are not\ngenerally plentiful. This sod is very hard to break at\nfirst, but subsequent ploughings are easy. As we went\nalong, we found one and another of our fellow-passengers\nquite v willing to tell us about all these things, and to\nexplain the reasons as to why one man fails and the\nother succeeds. It was especially interesting to us to\ncome across young men, from our own district in'\nAberdeenshire, who could speak in cheery tones of theirs\npast experience and their future prospects. One of these, j\nMr Will, from Methlick, who came and chatted with us.\non our car for a bit, had been working for a year or two i\non one of the huge 10,000 acre farms, formed originally j\nby Sir John Lister-Kaye; when we met him, he was\nabout to buy a farm of his own, and to bring to it as\nmistress an Associate of the \"Onward and Upward\nAssociation.\" But death broke up his home only a few\nmonths later, and he is now foreman on Lord Aberdeen's\nestate in British Columbia.\nThis young man's experience, and that of others whom\nwe met, points to the fact that one of the best ways of it\nfl\n124\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\ngetting on is for a new comer to hire himself as labourer\nto a srood farmer for a year or two, so as not only to save\nup money for his start, but also, even if he have some\ncapital, to learn the ways of the country under practical\nguidance. In looking to the future and to the pro-\nOne of Sir John Lister-Kaye's big farms in Alberta.\nbability of the continuance of the rich crops which have\nbeen obtained these last few years from Manitoba and\nthe North - West, there is one encouraging feature\nwhich was brought before us by a gentleman at Ottawa,\nMr Hurlbert, who has prepared a series of very interest- Passing a car-full of emigrants\u00E2\u0080\u0094\" Take our pictures.\"\nt< m\\nI 26\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nJffcl\ning maps under the sanction of the Canadian Government.\nOne of these maps, part of which we have reproduced'here\non a small scale, shows us that all over the world there are\nMap showing region of 'summer droughts in North America..\nregions where summer droughts prevail, where rain falls\nbut rarely during the period while the crops are growing\nand requiring moisture. If. If you look at the map, you will\n$ee that but a small part of this region is included in\nthe Dominion of Canada, and this is a matter of no\nsmall importance to intending settlers.\nAs we get further West, we begin to hear about other.\nsources of prosperity besides wheat\u00E2\u0080\u0094-we hear of the grass\nlands of Alberta, and its openings for large ranches for\nthe breeding of horses; we hear, too, of coal-fields of In a Railway Accident.\n127\nsuch extent that all past fears as to the fuel resources of\nCanada have been set at rest. Then, too, there is the\ntimber, and large petroleum deposits. But I cannot enlarge on these things in this paper, norwill I describe to you\nthe young towns of this region : Regina, the capital of the\n.\t\nA horse ranch near Calgary.\nNorth-West, where too are the head-quarters of the smart\nred-uniformed Canadian Mounted Police; Medicine Hat,\na little town in a cavity, surrounded by strongly indented hills, where we had the pleasure of inspecting a charmingly-appointed hospital, erected through the efforts of\nI 128\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nIll\nMr Niblock, one of the C.P.R. Superintendents; and\nCalgary, at the foot of the Rockies, a rapidly rising town\nwhich seems likely to become an important centre.\nIf space had permitted, I would have wished to tell\nyou something of the former masters of this country, the\nIndians, who are diminishing in numbers, and will ere\nlong disappear. Their tents, or \" teepees,\" are pitched\nin groups on the plains you pass by, and miserable\nspecimens in dirty squalid-coloured blankets haunt the\nrailway stations, with the object of selling buffalo horns,\nor baskets, or feather-work. Their babies, whom they\ncall \"papooses,\" and who are strapped to boards which\ntheir mothers carry on their backs, seem to be model\nbabies. You never hear one crying. There they are,\nswathed up tightly on their boards, and they appear to\nbe equally unconcerned if they are riding on their\nmothers' backs, or are put down against a wall, whilst\ntheir guardians are otherwise occupied. But travellers\nwho pass through these countries only by the railway can\nknow nothing of the lives and customs of the true type\nof Indian. For knowledge of these we must go to the\nhunter, the Hudson's Bay Company trader, and the\nmissionary, and we must hunt records of the past, which\nalready have supplied material for tales of thrilling\nadventure to the writers of boys' books.\nWhen the Europeans came to America, all this vast\nregion, of which we have been speaking, was only In a Railway Accident.\n129\ninhabited by various tribes of Indians, who lived almost\nentirely on the proceeds of their fishing and hunting.\nGradually the white men came to realise what a source of\nwealth existed in the herds of fur-covered animals which\nroamed over these endless plains and mountains, and the\nskins of which could be obtained very easily from the\nIndians for a few beads, ornaments, or better still, for\nmuskets when they had learned how to use them, or for\nthe spirits, which were to work such havoc among the\nnative races. And in 1669 Prince Rupert formed a\nCompany, which was endowed by King Charles II., with\n\" all countries which lie within the entrance of Hudson's\nStraits, in whatever latitude they may be, so far as not\npossessed by other Christian States.\" The new Company entered vigorously on its work, establishing central\ntrading stations throughout their domain, formed of a few\nwooden huts, and surrounded by palisades or walls and\nwell-barred gates. These were generally near rivers, and\nto these the savages brought their merchandise of skins,\nand feathers, and horns, at stated seasons of the year.\nThey encamped before the fort, and a solemn transaction,\nof bartering and of affectionate speeches, took place, and on\nthe results of this bartering the Company grew fabulously\nrich. A century later their continued success caused\nanother Company to be formed, and many were the feuds\nwhich ensued, until the two decided to unite and to work\ntogether. Oh, the yarns that might be told of those i3o\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\ngolden days of hunting, of the adventures and hairbreadth escapes, and in all the Red Man plays a conspicuous part. Round his loyalty or his enmity centres\nmany a tale. Those days are over now. In 1869 the\nGovernment took over the domains of the Hudson's Bay\nCompany for ^300,000, and certain lands round the\ntrading stations, and from that time the era of the Indian\nwas over. They cannot stand before the forces of\ncivilisation, and they are doomed to give way to those\nwho have entered on their predestined work of cultivating\nthe land and building cities, thus multiplying the\npopulation and replenishing the earth. Meanwhile, the\nmissionaries have been busy. The authorities of the\nHudson's Bay Company always encouraged their efforts,\nand did much for them by forbidding the use of spirits at\ntheir stations, and in later times the Government has\nendeavoured to exercise a paternal care over these\nperishing tribes, gathering them into reserves, trying to\nteach them agriculture, educating their children, granting\ngifts and pensions, and doing all in their power to promote the success of the Missions. But of the heroic work\nof these missionaries, and of what they have been able to\naccomplish, we must tell you some other time, if you will\nnot tire of the subject. X.\nTHE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.\nAND now we have come to the last part of the-\ntrip through which I have endeavoured to act\nas your conductor. And if I have felt myself inefficient\nin that capacity during the earlier parts of our journey,\nstill more do I feel the impossibility of doing justice to\nall the glories of the scenery through which we shall now\npass. For even the prairies of the North West prove themselves to be not so limitless as they appear at first to those\ntraversing their vast extent day after day; and one night,\nas we peep out of our berths behind the closed blinds of\nthe car, we find ourselves standing still at the very foot\nof the Rockies. In the conflicting light of the stars and\nearly dawn, we see. ourselves guarded by three high\npurple peaks, known as the Three Sisters, and we feel\nourselves once more safe at home in the bosom of the\nmountains. Soon the heavy engine which is to pant up-\nthe steep inclines in front of us comes, and hooks us on,\nand all day long, as we clamber the snow-covered Rockies,\nand steam on slowly through the heart of the Selkirks,\nalong the Columbia River, and the wild waters which\nsweep down the Kicking-Horse Pass, and pass under the\nshade of the crags of huge \" Sir Donald,\" we rush about.\nI\nP 132\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nJ' IN\nfrom side to side, and from end to end of our car,\nattempting, if not to photograph or sketch, at least to\nimprint some memory of the magnificent panorama\nunrolling itself before our eyes. But all in vain ! There\nis such a thing as being surfeited with fine scenery, and it\nApproaching the Rockies.\nis a transgression against nature to hurry, as we did\nthrough these glorious scenes. All that remains now is a\nremembrance of towering snow-capped peaks rearing\nthemselves up in all their strength above us, and stretches\nof mountains changing in the varying light of sun and\ncloud, from palest blues and greys to rich tones of yellow \u00C2\u00A3\n;\u00E2\u0096\u00A0. j\nm \u00E2\u0096\u00A0\nJ34\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nand red and purple, as we come nearer, and as the autumn\nfoliage shows itself blending with the deep browns and\nblueish-green colours of the waters foaming below. To\nappreciate scenery such as this frequent halts should be\nmade, and time should be allowed for the eye and mind\nto drink in and realise what is before them. Solitude too,\nand deep, unbroken stillness, are needed, if you would be\nin harmony with these surroundings, if you would have\nnature lead you up irresistibly to nature's God, if you\nwould be able from your heart to bow yourself down and\nsay:\u00E2\u0080\u0094\nS' These are Thy glorious works, Parent of good.\nAlmighty, Thine this universal frame,\nThus wondrous fair ! Thyself how wondrous then !\nUnspeakable ! who sits above these heavens\nTo us invisible, or dimly seen\nIn these Thy lowest works, yet these\nDeclare Thy goodness beyond thought\nAnd power divine.\"\nAnother time we hope to be able to stop at various places\non this route, for a day at any rate, and perhaps I shall\nthus be better fitted to be your guide on some future\noccasion. The only halt we did make in these regions\nwe enjoyed immensely. It was at Banff, where the\nGovernment are forming a National Park, twenty-six\nmiles long by ten broad, and where the C.P.R. have put\nup a most comfortable hotel, 4000, feet above the sea,\noverlooking the Bow River. The hotel is about one and The Rocky Mountains.\n135\na half miles from the station. OiSt tein arrived at th&\nstation about 1 a.m., and we shall not Soon forget the\nbrisk drive in the bright, frosty Mt^ OV& snow-besprinkled\ngrounds, amidst snow-cOVered rn\u00C2\u00A9ur\iikiS) with stars\nglimmering overhead. The h\u00C2\u00A9tel h a prettily-designed\nFrom the window of the Banff Hotel. \u00E2\u0080\u00A2 ^\nwooden building, capable of accommodating a hundred\nguests, and in the large entrance-hall a huge log-fire,\ncrackling away on an open hearth, bids welcome to weary\ntravellers from East and West, whatever hour of the\nnight they may arrive- Well, we had what is termed in\nAmerica \" a lovely time\" at Banff. The sun shone\nbrilliantly, the air was exhilarating, and we made the 111\ns4\n\u00C2\u00A3\n&\n.^\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A25\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A25 The Rocky Mountains.\ni37\nmost of our one day. We walked, and we sketched, and\nwe \" kodaked\"\u00E2\u0080\u0094we visited the hot sulphur springs, which\nare much resorted to by invalids, and which boil out of\nthe ground at different degrees of temperature up to\n90 or 92 degrees. Some of these look most tempting to\nthe bather, the clear green-blue water bubbling into a\nlarge pool, enclosed by high rocks, and the rays of the\nsun glinting through the opening above. And in the\nafternoon Captain Harper, one of the Inspectors of the\nMounted Police, came round with his break and four-in-\nhand, and took us for a drive round the Park, charioteering us most skilfully up and down the steep roads, winding\nround Tunnel Mountain, and showing us many beautiful\nviews.\nThe time for departure came all too soon, and as we\nwere standing near the station in the darkness, waiting\nfor the arrival of the train, I heard a familiar Aberdeenshire voice putting the question, \" Do you remember\n\" Titaboutie ? \" \" Remember Titaboutie !\" I should\nthink we did ! The voice belonged to a daughter of one\n>of Lord Aberdeen's Tarland tenants, and we found that\nshe and her sister had both come out to Canada. One\nwas engaged at the Banff Sanatorium, the other was\nwith her brother on one of Sir John Lister-Kaye's farms,\nand both said they liked the country. It was a touch of\nhome where we had least expected it, but it was by no\nmeans a solitary experience. Wherever we went, it U s\n138\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nifflkw\nseemed as if we met \" oor ain folk,\" and these same folk\nseem generally to get \" the guiding o't.\" That reflection\nshould do more than fill our hearts with pride of old\nScotland, it should bring home to those of us who are\nparents the additional responsibility of being parents of\nchildren who belong to a race who seemed bound to rise\nto high position and influence wherever they may go, the\nworld over. The thought that the destinies of countries\nfar away may one day largely rest in our children's hands\nshould fill us with a noble ambition for them, that they\nmay be able to say with others who have gone before \u00E2\u0080\u0094\n\" We cross the prairie as of old\nThe pilgrims crossed the sea,\nTo make the West, as they the East,\nThe homestead of the free.\n\" We go to plant her common schools\nOn distant prairie swells,\nAnd give the Sabbaths of the wilds\nThe music of her bells.\n\" Upbearing, like the ark of old,\nThe Bible in our van,\nWe go to test the truth of God,\nAgainst the foes of man.\"\nUndoubtedly Scotchmen have largely had to do with\nthe making of Canada, and happily they have for the\nmost part left their mark on her for good. We find their\nnames much associated too with the making of this Jo\nI)\n<3\nI r : :\n140\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nwonderful railway, by means of which all this marvellous\nscenery is witnessed. If we think of what was considered\na good road in these parts before the railway came, and\nthen when we travel by this iron road cut through, or\ncut out of the sides of, perpendicular cliffs, the workmen\nA Trestle Bridge.\nin some cases having had to be lowered by ropes from\nabove in order to get at their work, we get some idea of\nthe change which has been wrought. From side to side\nof rushing waters the train crosses on trestle bridges like\nthat of which we give you an illustration, and finds its\nway along ledges of rock, twisting and turning in every The Rocky Mountains.\n141\ndirection on the brink of the precipices below. On some\nparts of the road great wooden erections, called snow-\nsheds (having something of the character of tunnels), have\nhad to be put up to protect the line from snow in winter.\nBy this means the road is scarcely, if ever, blocked, even\nduring heavy falls of snow. And thus, by one device and\nanother, and by the exercise of constant, vigilant inspection, this railway company, though their system covers such\nan extent of country, and has to face so many perilous\nplaces, can, up to the present time, thankfully record that\nthey* have only lost the life of one passenger, and that\nwas in consequence of his standing on the steps of the\ncar after being warned by the conductor not to do so.\nI could tell you much of the glimpses we caught of life\nin British Columbia, of the Indians spearing the salmon,\nof the Chinamen washing the sand for gold, of the\nvillages of both Indians and Chinese, which are quite\ndifferent to any other we have seen, and the curious\nburying-places, high up in the trees, which the Indians\nmake for their dead But I prefer to wait until I have\nseen more of all this, and will then gladly give you a\npaper or two, exclusively on British Columbia, if you\nshould wish it. sp;\nI will only ask you on this occasion to come straight\non to the cities of Vancouver and Victoria, and take a\nlook of these before we part.\nAt Vancouver we were most hospitably entertained by\njll\n1111 fcrt\n142\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nthe Mayor, Mr Oppenheimer, and his wife, and, in\naddition to this, the Scotch and the Irish residents\ncombined together to give us a most hearty and kindly\nreception one evening. In this way we heard much of\nall that was doing in the place, and of its wonderful\nVancouver.\ngrowth since the disastrous fire which utterely annihilated\nit five years ago. Within three months after the fire\nfour hundred houses had been erected, and the progress\nhas since been so rapid that there is now a population of\n13,000. This is the more remarkable when we reflect\nthat the site on which the town stands was covered with The Rocky Mountains.\n143\na dense forest, of enormous pines, such as we now see\njust outside the limits of present habitations. Their great\nroots have to be removed, and the heavy wood and dead\ntimber have to be cleared at an enormous expense before\nthe land can be utilised, yet a great part of this forest is\nalready parcelled out into building blocks, and is selling\nTite late Mr G. G. Mackay.\nat a high price. And where the Douglas pine and the\ncedar flourished undisturbed but a few years ago, handsome streets are now formed, lighted with electric light,\nand supplied with electric tram-cars. Most of the buildings are of wood, but there are a few principal streets\nwhere only stone or brick buildings may be erected.\nGreat foresight is also being shown by the municipal\nJj m\n:.\n1\n144 Through Canada with a Kodak.\nauthorities in matters of sanitation and drainage, unlike\nsome new towns, where such matters have been left to\nchance; and even in these early days a Public Park has\nbeen set aside, with a circuit of ten miles, called after the\npresent Governor-General, the Stanley Park.\nWe had the advantage of being shown some of the\ncountry round Vancouver by an old friend (Mr G. G,\nMackay) whom I* have often seen during my childhood at my father's home in Inverness-shire. He\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2came out here three years ago to see if this would\nbe a good place for his sons, and liked it so much\nthat he never went back, but sent for his^ family to\njoin him. As he pointed out to us, the peninsula\non which Vancouver is situated on either side of her\nbeautiful harbour is bound to be built over, and to\noecome exceedingly valuable, as the city develops under\nthe increase of trade which must of necessity come,\nthrough its being the terminus of the C.P.R., and commanding the shortest route to Japan, China, and India, by\nthe new magnificent steam-ships which are now running.\nJust ten weeks ago, the advantage of this route over any\nother was demonstrated by the Japanese mail reaching\nQueenstown in twenty days from leaving Yokohama. You\nmay imagine the pride of the Vancouver people at seeing\n\" The Empress of Japan\" sail proudly in after a nine day's\nwoyage from Yokohama.\nThe atmosphere of hope and faith in the future of their The Rocky Mountains.\nJ45\ncountry make British Columbians a very delightful people.\nThere is a spirit of enterprise in the air which, coupled to\nnatural advantages, makes success a certainty. This\nbelief in the future was rather amusingly illustrated by a\nhuge sign-board which we found stuck into the ground,,\non the borders of a dense forest with no house in sight.\nThe notice ran thus :\u00E2\u0080\u0094\n'' There is a tide in the affairs of men,\nWhich, taken at its flood, leads on to fortune !\nThis is the tide oi your life I!\nInvest in the city of the future, Sieveston,\nAnd become\nA Millionaire.\"\nI wonder whether we shall find the city of Steveston an\naccomplished fact this year ?\nWe must teat ourselves away from Vancouver and its\nbeautiful surroundings with regret, and embark in the\n\" Islander \" for the five hours' crossing to Victoria, under\nCaptain Hulden's care. See Mount Baker raising its\nhead high above the sunset clouds, all in a golden glory,\nand seeming isolated far above all the rest of the common\nworld below. And there, opposite, are the peaks of the\nfamed Olympic Range, standing out a deep blue against\nthe sky, only hidden here and there by a light mist curling about their sides. So we sail out of Vancouver, and\nthe sunset fades into moonlight over a delightfully calm\nsea long before we reach Victoria, the beautiful capital of\nK\n'1\n'\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\u00E2\u0096\u00A0: e\n146\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nBritish Columbia. Is it indeed Victoria and Vancouver\nIsland where we have arrived ? Has not the \" Islander \"\nlost her way, and brought us by a short route back to\nEngland, and landed at Torquay ? The resemblance has\nalmost a touch of the comical in it\u00E2\u0080\u0094the same scents,\nthe same sort of greenness all round, the same sort of\nferns and foliage and surroundings, and on that day, at\nHis Honour the L ieut. -Governor of British Columbia.\nany rate, the same moist feeling in the air, developing\nlater on into a steady downpour. Then English voices\nand faces abound, and English customs predominate so\nlargely that the illusion would be complete if we were not\nrecalled to our whereabouts by the presence of the\nChinese pigtail everywhere.\nThe residents of British Columbia would be hard put The Rocky Mountains.\ni47\nto it if it were not for these same Chinese. Domestic\nservants are very difficult to get, and even when obtained\noften give themselves such airs that the mistresses are\nglad to return to the Chinaman, who will act as cook,\nhousemaid, waiter, groom, and gardener, all in one, without giving any trouble. Girls, however, who do come\nout, and are ready to work and do what they are told, get\nAdmiral Hotham.\nvery high wages. Labour generally is very dear. An\nordinary labourer will get 10s. to 12s. a day, and mechanics and masons get as much as 16s. to 20s. a day.\nWe much regretted that the steady rain prevented us\nfrom seeing all the beauties of the place. But the\nGovernor of British Columbia, and Mrs Nelson, and Sir\nJoseph and Lady Trutch, were ready to help us to see all 148\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nthat could be seen. The Governor kindly drove us\ndown to the magnificent harbour at Esquimault, three\nmiles from Victoria, the headquarters of the North Pacific\nSquadron.. Several warships were riding at anchor, adding\none more touch to the likeness to England. The Admiral\nH.M.S. \" Warspiter\nI\nof the Fleet, Admiral Hotham, had been good enough\nto give us an invitation to tea on board the flagship,\nthe \" Warspite,\" commanded by Captain Hedworth\nLambton, and so here, on the Pacific Ocean, I paid\nmy first visit to a British war-ship. Everything on board\nlooked spotless in its whiteness, and brightness, and The Rocky Mountains.\n149\ntrimness, and the Admiral's room, in the end bows of\nthe ship, was like a drawing-room for cosiness and\ncomfort\u00E2\u0080\u0094a bright fire burning in a grate, and comfortable\nchairs and tables and ornaments, all looking as if we were\nashore. Admiral Hotham gave a high character to\nBritish Columbia; he had been here for five months, and\nthis was only the second wet day he had seen\u00E2\u0080\u0094climate,\npeople, and all surroundings were amongst the pleas-\nantest he had known in all his nautical wanderings. It\nwas sad that we should not have the opportunity of seeing\nthe place to full advantage, but our brief stay was full of\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2enjoyments,- including an evening at Government House ;\nand here, too, we met our friend, Professor Henry\nDrummond, who had just arrived from Australia and\nJapan, and who now joined our party for the homeward\ntrip.\nHere, then, amidst the roses and fragrant breezes of\nthis favoured isle, I must leave you, with many regrets that\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2our trip has come to an end. It is a hurried journey\nthat we have taken, and we have had but glimpses of the\ninexhaustable resources of this great country. But if\nthese little sketches have added somewhat to your\nknowledge of what Canada is, if it has increased your\npride in her, if it has kindled a desire to do what may\nbe in your power to build up her fortunes, I shall feel they\nfiave not been written in vain. The high moral and\nreligious character of her present populations, the wise and ii\n!5\u00C2\u00B0\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\ntrue foundations that they are laying for future development and prosperity, makes one long that those remaining\nin the old country should thoroughly realise how much\nreason they have to rejoice in our common kinship, and\nthat those thinking of coming out to Canada to try their\nfortunes should come with a hearty desire to do their\nutmost for the land of their adoption. There has been\nsome disappointment this year at the increase of the\npopulation during the last decade being only half a\nmillion. Still all admit that the settlers are of a good\nstamp, and this, after all, is of far more importance\nthan mere numbers. Strong in her sense of her future,\nshe can afford to wait. As we sail down her rivers and\nlakes, and traverse her prairies, and climb her mountains,,\nthe poet Whittier's words haunt us\u00E2\u0080\u0094\n\" I hear the tread of pioneers,\nOf nations yet to be,\nThe first low wash of waves where soon\nShall roll a human sea.\"\nOur eyes may not see this consummation, but we may\njoin our prayers to those of a Canadian poet, with whose\nwords I will close:\u00E2\u0080\u0094\n\" Canada ! Maple-land ! Land of great mountains !\nLake-land and river-land ! Land 'twixt the seas !\nGrant us, God, hearts that are large as our heritage,\nSpirits as free as the breeze ! The Rockv Mountains.\n'51\n\" Grant us Thy fear, that we may walk in humility,\u00E2\u0080\u0094\nFear that is rev'rent, not fear that is base:\u00E2\u0080\u0094\nGrant to us righteousness, wisdom, prosperity,\nPeace\u00E2\u0080\u0094if unstained by disgrace.\n'' Grant us Thy love, and the love of our country!\nGrant us Thy strength, for Our strength's in Thy name ;\nShield us from danger, from every adversity,\nShield us, O Father, from shame.\n' - Last born of nations ! The offspring of freedom !\nHeir to wide prairies, thick forests, red^gold !\nGod grant us wisdom to value our birthright,\nCourage to guard what we own.\"\nLord Aberdeen and Projessor H. Drummond in the Railway Car, ill XL\nvi\nA VISIT TO\nBRITISH COLUMBIA\n1892\nEN ROUTE TO GUISACHAN, B.C.\n4\nTHE very mention of the place is restful and\ndelightful! Never have we had such a holiday\nanywhere, and even now a mere allusion to \" Guisachan,\nB.C.,\" is sufficient to produce a soothing sensation in\nthe minds of the trio of holiday-makers whose visit I want\nto describe. But how to approach the subject in\" a calm\nand judicial spirit! There's the rub! Our feelings\nregarding the place are betrayed already, and how am I\nto convince you that I am a trustworthy reporter ? Well,\nI must just let facts speak for themselves; and now to\nbegin at the very beginning !\nHow did we get there ? Perhaps some of you may\nremember in our travels last year, \"Through Canada with 54\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\na Kodak,\" a day's halt at fair Canadian \" Banff,\" nestling\nunder the shade of the mighty Rockies, and yearly\nattracting to its magnificent solitudes an increasing\nnumber of seekers after change, and rest, and health. The\nremembrance of our former experience led us to make this\nagain a resting-place, and much might be said concerning\nthe walks and drives, and exploring rambles taken, and\nthe friendships made, during the ten days which we spent\npeacefully in the midst of the everlasting hill's, enjoying\nthe most exquisite sunshiny weather all the while. But\non this occasion I must content myself by merely referring\nto it as the place from which we started for our journey\nto our British Columbian home.\nEarly in the morning the West-bound train, bearing the\ntraces of a prairie blizzard of hail and snow, through\nwhich it had passed, but which we had escaped, picked\nup our private car, whither we had repaired over night.\nAll day long we had the delight of passing afresh through\nthe scenes of beauty and grandeur which had so fascinated\nus on our previous trip. A brilliant sun lighted up the\nsnow-capped peaks, the shining glaciers, and the foaming\ntorrents, and melted away at last in a fiery glow of\nglory. Evening found us arrived at Sicamous Junction,\nwhere we were to spend the night, and where we\nwere to leave the main-line, and to wend our way\nsouthwards along a track in course of construction to\nour valley of the Okanagan. Sicamous, situated on the Guisachan Farm.\n155\n;\nlovely Shushwap Lake, noted for its fine fishing, already\nboasts of a good-sized hotel, although but few other\ndwellings are to be seen. We had arrived in time to\ntravel by the first passenger train along the new line. As\nmentioned, it was only now in course of construction,\nand only half of the fifty miles between Sicamous and\nVernon, our county town, were completed. The railway\nauthorities, however, complied with Lord Aberdeen's\nrequest for a special train which he chartered for the\noccasion. \u00C2\u00A3 As it happened, Vernon was to hold her first\nAgricultural Show on this very day; and, in consequence\nof this, a number of other passengers desired conveyance,\nand they were glad to get the chance of a train instead\nof making the trip in one of the hand-cars used by the\nworkmen on the railway. These are worked by\nmeans of a pump-like contrivance, and doubtless\nlook very cheery little vehicles. Let me own that\na difference of opinion exists amongst our own party\nas to the charms of riding on these hand-cars.\nLord Aberdeen is enthusiastic in their praise, whereas\nhis wife is inclined to prefer her own feet as a means of\nlocomotion to whizzing through the air at the rate of\n20 miles an hour, when a choice must be made, and our\nlittle ten-year-old daughter\u00E2\u0080\u0094who formed the third of our\ntravelling party\u00E2\u0080\u0094inclined to the opinion of one parent or\nthe other in this matter, according to circumstances.\nThe first passenger train up the line was an event It *S<5\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nim\nconsisted of an engine and tender, our private car (lent\nus through the kindness of Mr Spencer, of the C.P.R.), a\n\"caboose,\" which I think may be described as a glorified\nguard's van, and two luggage trucks, on the top of which\ntravelled a medley of men, dogs, packages, trunks,\nagricultural machinery, and all sorts of etceteras. We\nwere all much interested in our own appearance, and we\nall got out at every halting-place, and surveyed ourselves\nwith mingled pride and curiosity. At one of these\ntemporary stations where we stopped to water the engine,\nby means of a very primitive wooden contrivance, we\nfound quite an orchard and nursery-garden right alongside\nof the track. We were not surprised that the owner,\nMr Thomson, was a Scotchman, nor that his wife was an\n\"Ironside\" from the Haddo House estates, so accustomed\nhad we become to such coincidences; but these things\nbeing so, we were more than usually interested in hearing\nof what a good thing they were making of their 75 acres,\nwhat splendid fruit and vegetables could be produced in\nthat district, and how they kept cows too, and poultry,\ngetting 50 cents, (about 2s) per dozen eggs, and 50 cents,\nper spring chicken. A great part of our journey lay\nthrough very pretty country, skirting the Mara Lake,\nthrough picturesque mountain and wood scenery, after\nleaving Vernon, and then coming on the Spallumcheen\nRiver, along which a passenger steamer plies to Enderby,\nhalf-way to Vernon. After Enderby our driver had to ^ is8\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nim\nfir\ni\nM\ntake us cautiously, and often at foot's-pace, and even in\nthis way we bumped and plunged strangely over the half-\nfinished line, on which large gangs of workmen, mostly\nChinese, were still working. But at last Vernon was\nreached without any mishap. The new little town of\nwooden houses, but already possessing four hotels and a\nfifth large one in course of erection, was evidently the\nscene of unwonted bustle. Little groups of eager agriculturists were discussing the prospects of the district, and\ntheir own individual fortunes; here and there waggons\nwere unloading, buggies being unyoked, horses being led\nabout in ribbons and exhibition apparel. The Commissioner of Lands and Works for the Province, the Hon.\nF. G. Vernon, after whom the town was named, was\nexpected to open the Exhibition, but he not appearing,\nLord Aberdeen was taken possession of by the Chairman,\nMr Lumby, and the Committee, and the well-known\nprocess of inspecting the show and of making and hearing\nspeeches was gone through with apparent satisfaction to\nall concerned. I say the process was a well-known one,\nbut never at home have we had the pleasure of seeing\nsuch fruit, such roots, such vegetables. I wish I could\ngive you some idea of the enormous size of the monster\ncabbages, of the melons and golden pumpkins, some of\nthe former weighing as much as 30 and 40 lbs. The\napples made a splendid show, as did also the pears,\n-cherries, and all smaller fruits. Guisachan Farm Guisachan Farm.\n!59\ndid well, for it carried off six first prizes and six\nseconds.\nMr Lequime s little steamer -which took us up the Cake to Guisachan.\nUp to ;now but little attention has been devoted to\nfruit-growing, as this has been principally a stock-raising\n, i6o\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\ncountry, but the possibilities shown by the few orchards\nTransferring the luggage from the train to the steamer.\nalready planted point to its being found to possess\nexceptional advantages for the pursuit of this industry. Guisachan Farm.\n161\nWhile at the show we heard many desires expressed that\nthe large ranche-owners in the neighbourhood could be\npersuaded to break up some of their property into fruit-\nfarms from 20 to 100 acres, and it is because of this that\nLord Aberdeen has now asked Mr G. G. Mackay, of Vancouver, to parcel out some of the property he has since\nacquired near Vernon into portions suitable for fruit-growing, and, at the same time, has arranged for the erection\nof a jam-factory. But more of this hereafter. Suffice it\nto say for the present, that great eagerness is being\nmanifested on the subject by the inhabitants of the valley,\nand that - a prosperous future is predicted for it by experienced judges, who point out not only the capabilities\nof production, but also the inexhaustible market existing\nin the North-West Provinces, where fruit cannot be grown\nto any advantage, and where there is a constantly growing\ndemand for it.\nBut we must not linger at Vernon, though we were\ntreated there with great kindness, and made many new\nfriends. Especially do we remember the courtesy of Mr\nDewdney, the Government agent, whose sad death since\nthen has evoked such sincere sorrow and deep sympathy\nwith his wife and family. We made acquaintance, too,\nwith the pioneer settler of these parts, Mr Girouard, a\nFrench Canadian, who arrived here in 1858, having taken\nthe best part of a year to travel hither from California,\nand with Mr Stuart, the enterprising young editor of the\nI\ni mm\nrii\n162 Through Canada with a Kodak.\nVernon News, a capital local paper, which brings us all\nthe news of the district every week. But the day was\nwearing away, and my brother, who takes charge of Guisachan, was anxious that we should start on the final\nEntrance Gate to Guisachan Farm;\nstage of our journey. So we left the showyard before\nthe judging of the cattle and horses was completed, but not before seeing a Guisachan team\ngiven a first prize, and another pair of useful horses- Guisachan Farm.\n163\n(which Lord A. had just purchased, on my brother\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2r\nIn the woods of Guisachan, B.C.\ntelling him that such a pair were needed on the 164\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nfarm) gaining the same honourable position in another\nclass.\nThe day was a general holiday, and the men who work\nthe steamboat which carries passengers up and down the\nOkanagan Lake were away from work. In this emergency\na neighbour of ours at Guisachan, Mr Lequime, undertook to take us home in his small steamboat. It was\nnot intended exactly for passengers, but we had a very\nmerry voyage, stowed away most of the time in a queer\nlittle cabin, father and daughter beguiling themselves and\ntheir companions by singing improvised Canadian railway\nsongs to Scotch tunes. Presently the moon came out,\nand we had an opportunity of reconnoitring our Okanagan Lake beauties by moonlight. The time soon sped\naway, and ere four hours had .passed we found ourselves\nturning into a bay> and presently we and our baggage were\ndeposited on a landing stage, whilst our crew were hieing\nback to Vernon for an all-night ball in honour of the\nShow. They did not leave us, however, without securing\na cart from a neighbour for our luggage, whilst we walked\nleisurely on to take possession of our new domain, only\ntwo miles distant. The telegram we had sent announcing\nthe exact day of our arrival had never been received, and\nhence we had all the fun of appearing unexpectedly, and\nof a moonlight walk. Now, knowing that the beauty of a\ncountry is often over-rated, we had schooled ourselves not\nto expect much, so as not to be disappointed. We &lgp\u00C2\u00AB:\nlllIII\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0a\n&\n\u00C2\u00A3 i66\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nimagined to ourselves, therefore, a flat plain with bare\nhills in the distance, a few scrubby trees and bushes here\nand there, and a house set down in the middle of the flat.\nInstead of which we found mountains looking more like\nthe Inverness-shire mountains of my youth than any others\nwe had seen in Canada, and about a mile from the landing-stage we came to a gate leading into a wood. \" Oh,\n, Guisachan, B.C.\nif only that were our gate !\" murmured Lord Aberdeen.\n\"But that's just what it is,\" answered Coutts, my brother,\nand we. turned into a regular delightful wood, with big\ntrees of two hundred feet high, through which the moonlight fell in silvery streaks across the new road which my\nbrother and his assistant-manager, Mr Smith, had prepared for us as a surprise. About half-a-mile brings us Guisachan Farm.\n167\nthrough the wood, and then, on emerging, we see our\nhouse a quarter of a mile away, standing against a background of purple hills, and commanding a charming view,\nwith a peep of the lake from the verandah. On approaching our habitation it looked very much deserted and locked\nup, but Coutts knocked away in confidence that someone\n*would appear. Presently a cautious step was heard\nwithin, and the door was presently opened a chink, and\nwe were demanded what we wanted. It was perhaps as\nwell for us that Coutts was with us, for Mr Smith afterwards owned that he had been very suspicious of us when\nhe heard footsteps on the verandah, and he had loaded\nand brought his rifle with him behind the door, to repel\nus by force if need be, and the dogs \"Caesar\" and \"Spot\"\nwere quite ready to join in the chase until they heard\nthe voice of their master assuring them that we were\nfriends.\nA warm reception\u00E2\u0080\u0094was it not ? But we all agreed that\nwe could not have had a more delightful home-coming\nthan that moonlight walk with all its surprises, and then\nthe storming of the citadel was much more in keeping\nwith our mood than finding everybody and everything in\nreadiness.\nIt took but a few minutes, however, to light up the\nhouse, and to show how ship-shape everything had been\nmade to receive us, and we barely had time to examine\nall the ingenuities and tastefulness of the two bachelors 168 Through Canada with a Kodak.\nin.the household arrangements, when it was announced\nthat \"Foo,\" the Chinese cook and servant-in-general, had\nnot only been roused out of his slumbers, but had prepared a substantial supper wherewith to appease our\nhunger. And soon thereafter we were all in the land of\ndreams, dreaming of delights, past, present, and future.\nIll w\nXII.\nGUISACHAN FARM.\nILL you come out for a bear hunt this afternoon ?\"\nThat was the first communication which we\nreceived from the outer world the morning\nafter our arrival at Guisachan. Two of our neighbours,\nhearing of our advent, had come up to say that a bear\nwith her two cubs, had been seen coming down from the\nhills to search for the berries which were scarce last year\nhigher up, and their present whereabouts being ascertained, it was proposed that they should pay for their temerity with their lives. Perhaps you will think that such an\nexpedition does not sound like a very proper beginning for\na respectable farmer and his family to make to his farming life in British Columbia. But truth will out, and the\ninvitation was accepted and acted upon before we had\nridden the marches or examined the stock. A beautiful\nday it was, too, for a hunt or an expedition of any kind !\nA quiet, gray morning, with light soft fleecy white clouds\nfloating about the mountain tops, had brightened out into\nan afternoon full of sunshine, and we saw the surroundings 170 Through Canada with a Kodak.\nof our new home under the most favourable auspices, as\nwe trotted merrily over the fields, and through the woods,\nin an old buggy, which had seen much work, drawn by\nwise-looking old horses, who were reputed to have taken\npart in many an escapade in more youthful days. The\nscrub was reached where \" Mrs Bruin\" and her family\nGoing out for a bear hunt.\nwere in hiding, and the guns were posted on a hillside\ncommanding a delightful view of the lake for sketching\npurposes, and our bear hunters, with their dogs, plunged\nabout bravely round the outskirts of the thicket, which\nwas too dense and prickly for anyone to penetrate, except Guisachan Farm.\n171\nat the risk of clothes and skin. There was much hallooing, and barking of dogs, and beating with sticks; but no\nresults, though every now and then a glimpse of the\nbrown fur was caught by one or other of the sportsmen,\nand the end of it all was that we were obliged to own\nthat \" Mrs Bruin\" was cleverer than we, for all of a\nWatching the game-bag.\nsudden she was spied scuttling up a hill a quarter-of-a-\nmile distant, having got away by a side where there was\nno gun posted, and having determined to leave her\nchildren in the lurch. So we had to satisfy ourselves\nwith having seen her, and we wended our way home 172\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nunder a glorious sunset sky, with hundreds of wild geese\nflying to their feeding grounds, filling the air with their\nwild, peculiar cries. I will not tell you how many of\nthem were brought down on this occasion ! but I can tell\nIi\n\"Foo,\" our Chinese cook.\nyou wild goose is very good, and so are some of the other\ngame birds which were provided for us by our sportsmen\nduring our stay at Guisachan. There are the wild duck,\nof which there are several varieties on the Okanagan Lake, Guisachan Farm.\ni73\nand which bring to our minds an exciting chase, and a\nbrilliant long shot by my brother, such as sportsmen love\nto think back on, and good retrieving on the part of good\ndog \" Spot.\" \u00E2\u0080\u00A2 Then there are the \" ruffed grouse,\" more\nlike our pheasant to eat, and what is called the \" prairie\nchicken,\" so named by early settlers, but which in reality\nWilly, the Indian boy, with his white pony.\nis a species of grouse, and, in our opinion,-the best game\nbird for the table which Canada possesses. And bear\nsteak and chops are very good, too ; for one of those rash\nyoung bears was killed after all, and though he was very\nthin, poor little chap, yet we thought him a good sub- 174\nThrough Canada with a Kodak,\nI\nstitute for venison, as served up by \" Foo,\" our Chinese\ncook.\nThe mention of that dignitary reminds me that I have\nnot yet introduced you to our establishment, nor shown\nyou over the house. Well, first, besides ourselves, our\nlittle girl, Marjorie, my brother Coutts, and Mr Smith,.\nResidence No i. Present owner emerging from inspection.\nthere is Barron, my maid, the companion of all our\njourneyings for many years past, and who knows most\nquarters of the globe, is a perfect traveller, is never sea\nsick, never has headaches, and never forgets anything.\nAt Guisachan she became a sort of combined house- Guisachan Farm.\n175\nkeeper and housemaid. Then comes Turner, Lord A.'s\nservant, another valuable companion of our wanderings,\nand who, on the present occasion, showed his usual\nenergy and adaptability in every role from butler to wOod-\nchopper. \" Foo,\" who on ordinary occasions was general\nfactotum, accepted such assistance with alacrity, and\nshowed his appreciation by never appearing in his kitchen\ntill half-past eight in the morning. Did we remonstrate ?\nOh, no; we knew better. A Chinese cook is a very\nResidence No. 2.\ntouchy gentleman, and if you offend his majesty you will\nfind that he will demand his pay and walk off the next\nhour. And we got into terrible trouble one day. A\nlarge covey of prairie chicken flew past the house. Lord\nA. ran to get his gun; but, meanwhile, friend \" Foo \" had\nseen the birds, and, being fond of sport, borrowed my\nbrother's gun and ammunition out of his room, without\nsaying \" by your leave,\" and sped away so as to be first\nv\nm am\n176\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\non the scene of action. On being called back, and a\nhumble suggestion made that he should wait a minute\nand go with Lord A., instead of in front of him, he waxed\nfierce with wrath, and not only did he rush ahead and\nscatter the birds, but for a day or two afterwards retired\nResidence No. 3.\ninto the sulks, varied with ebullitions of wrath over the\nunwarrantable interference with his liberties which had\noccurred. But, nevertheless, he was a good cook, as\nmost of the Chinese are, and, when all is said, it is hard\nto see how the British Columbian folk could get on\nwithout the Chinese servants and labourers. You see n\n178 Through Canada with a Kodak.\nthem everywhere, and they are ready to be combined\ncook, groom, housemaid, and gardener, and the general\nverdict is that, after all, they are better than girls who\ncome out from the old country with all sorts of foolish\nnotions in their heads as to what work they should or\nshould not do. I regret to say that the general tone of\nthe girls who have gone to British Columbia, and who get\nhigh wages (12, 15, and 20 dollars a month, and even\nmore), has not been such as to make employers very\nanxious to repeat the experiment. Still, girls going West\nto the Pacific coast are certain to find good places, and\nif only they will be sensible, and ready to turn their\nhands to anything, and to do as they are bid, they will\ncommand first-rate wages and happy homes. In the\nmeanwhile the Chinaman has still the predominance,\nand he possesses many advantages, though his wages are\nhigh. But I must come back to our Guisachan establishment, and introduce you to Willy, an Indian boy, who\narrived every morning on his white pony at full gallop,\nand who was initiated into the mysteries of blacking boots,\nand the greater mystery of picking up \" Foo's \" tins and\nempty bottles, feathers, and other debris, so as to make\nthe place look a bit tidy.\nNow, take a peep round the house, into the hall\ndecorated with horns and heads of deer shot in Dakota\nby my brother, and with various specimens of Indian\nwork; and then see the pretty bright sitting-room, with *o\nIS*\nS\nSi i8o\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\na\nskins of animals, shot in the same way, scattered about\non the floor: pictures on the walls, and magazines and\nother evidences of the last mail on the table; the dining-\nroom at the back, to which communication is obtained\nfrom the kitchen across a passage open to the air, thus\ndevised with the object of avoiding unnecessary kitchen\nStarting for a drive -with \" Cltarlie\" and \" Pinto.\"\nsmells, four big bed-rooms, two small ones, the office,\nand a broad verandah round three sides of the house,\nwill complete the survey. It is the fourth mansion on\nthe Guisachan estate, and we give you a sight of the\nfour. The first as you see is a mere \" shack,\" evidently\nput up for shelter on the owner's first arrival. The Guisachan Farm.\n181\nsecond, though in ruins now, was doubtless a good\nenough house for the country in its day. The third is\nquite a big house, with two good living rooms in it, and\nis now inhabited by the men. It looks quite smart, now\nMr Smith exhibiting the wild Indian pony.\nthat it has peen painted outside and inside, and the\nsundry traces of the former occupants done away with.\nMany tales of the wild doings of these Macdougalls were\ntold us, and testimony to the truth of some, at least, of\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 um.\n182\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nthese was to be seen in the marks of the pistol shots with\nwhich the walls and ceiling of the house were riddled.\nWe were fortunate in securing a very nice set of men,\nand I am sorry our Kodak has not done them more\njustice. They were gathered from all parts of the country,\nand from all sorts and conditions of men\u00E2\u0080\u0094one would be\nfrom Ontario, another from Yorkshire, another from the\nStates; another was the son of a gentleman near London,\nwho unexpectedly arrived one evening to spend a few\nhours with his boy. This young man owned a farm in\nAlberta, but was hiring himself out as a workman in\norder to get the wherewithal to carry on his farm more\nefficiently.\nThe foreman, Frank Conckling, was an old friend of\nmy brother's in Dakota, and most valuable acquisition,\nfor he is one of those handy-men who can turn to\nanything and do it all well. He has now brought his\nfather from the Eastern States to live with him. Both\nhave a knowledge of fruit-growing, and are taking up some\nland of their own.\nWith the high wages obtained in British Columbia (45\nto 50 dollars a month for a foreman, and 30 to 35 for an\nordinary workman, with board and lodgings provided), a\nsaving and sober man can soon save up enough to make\na start on his own account. It is sad to hear, however,\nof the many ruined lives and fortunes which must be put\ndown to the influence of strong drink and the saloon. Guisachan Farm.\n183\nNumbers of small farms in the district which we are now\nI\nHi\nI\ni\nCoutts on \" Aleck \"\u00E2\u0080\u0094\" Spot\" in attendance\ndescribing have been literally drunk away and are now the\nii mm\n184\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nill\ntill]\nproperty of the license-holders. - It is to be hoped that\nthe new settlers coming into the valley will help to\npromote social gatherings and entertainments, which will\nmeet the natural desire for gathering together in a cheery\nway, without sowing the seeds of intemperance and\nmisery.\nOur neighbours were good enough to gather in our\nhouse twice during our stay, and thus welcomed the newcomers, and made us feel real Okanaganers. One of\nthese gatherings was in the evening, and was just an\nold-fashioned Scotch \" social,\" with tea and \" bags\" of\neatables handed round, or rather, to be strictly accurate,\nwe had the eatables without the bags. And a very\npleasant evening we had, with songs, and music, and\nrecitations, some in English and some in French, for the\nbenefit of our French Roman Catholic neighbours, who\nrepresent the earlier settlers all round what is termed the\n\" Okanagan Mission.\" The Mission was founded some\n32 years ago for the Indians, by a devoted priest,\nFather Pendozy, of whose fame we heard much, and who\nonly died a few months before our arrival. The Indians\nhave mostly moved away to their reserve at the foot of\nthe lake, but \" the Mission \" is now the head-quarters of\na large district, and it is also the residence of a lay\nbrotherhood who cultivate a farm and orchard. The\ntwo priests in residence, Father Marzial and Father de\nVriendt, were both amongst our guests at our \"social,\" Guisachan Farm.\n185\nand the latter gave us two songs, while the Presbyterian\nminister, Mr. Langell, gave us a recitation. It was the\nfirst time that such a gathering had been held in the\ndistrict, but from the success which attended it, we hope\nit will not be the last. Since then a magic-lantern has\nbeen established at Guisachan, and we hear that the first\nmagic-lantern entertainment was well attended and much\nliked.\nThe other gathering of which I spoke was a little\nSunday afternoon service conducted by Lord A. That\nreally came first, on our first Sunday, and was intended\nas a sort of formal taking possession and dedication of\nthe house, and it was delightful to find all our neighbours,\nboth Protestant and Roman Catholic, gathering together\nfor the occasion. Some sort of gathering, such as this,\non the Sunday afternoon or evening, has also become\nanother institution at Guisachan.\nBut the mention of a service reminds me that I must\ntell you how active the Presbyterian Church in Canada is\nin providing services for colonies of new settlers. We\nwere much struck with this throughout our trip. Even\nin quite small places where we halted, we found that\nprovision was made for at least fortnightly services, and a\nmissionary appointed, who is paid out of a Home Mission\nFund, collected mainly by the zealous Dr. Robertson,\nuntil such time as the young community can afford to\npay for their own church and minister. Our friend, mm\n186\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nill\n11\n..\u00C2\u00BB B tgf|\nft\nMr Gordon of Banff, told us that experience justified this\naction. If settlers are allowed to get into a habit of\nnot attending church, it will be generally much longer\nbefore they move in the matter themselves than when\nthe means of grace have been placed within their reach\nfrom the beginning, and many opportunities for promoting religious influences, and for preventing evil will\nhave been lost. In the Okanagan Valley there is a\nservice now every Sunday; at the upper end one Sunday,\nat the house of some good neighbours, the Postills, and\nat our end the next Sunday, at the Schoolhouse, which\nthe Board have gladly lent for the purpose, although\nseveral of the members are Roman Catholics. At the\npresent time the minister lives in Vernon, 35 miles away,\nand has to return there always in time for an evening\nservice. But already there is more than a talk of two\nchurches, one at either end of the valley, and a minister\nof our own. We shall never forget the picturesqueness\nof the scene which met our eye as we drove up to the\nSchoolhouse for the morning service. As usual the\nweather was gorgeous. The School is situated just at the\ncorner of a wood of tall trees gay in their brilliant autumn\ncolourings. Just inside this wood, and on its outskirts,\nwere tied up saddle horses and buggies of all sizes and\ndescriptions, and all around were standing picturesque\ngroups of men and dogs awaiting the moment for going\nin. The brilliant sunshine pouring down on the scene \u00C2\u00AB\n.^\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2^\ns!3\ns\n^0\nm\n\u00C2\u00A71\nm i88\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nand glinting on the stems of the trees completed the\ncharm and naturalness of the picture. No conventionality, no black coats, no formal solemnity. There\nwere but three women in the congregation; all the rest\nwere men and lads who looked as if they knew how to\nwork, Mr Langell quite adopted the same free and easy\nattitude, and spoke to his hearers as if he were one of\nthem. I am so sorry that I cannot give you a picture\nof that scene outside the church, and I would have liked\nto put in the very forefront, the dearest and cheeriest of\nold ladies, in. an old-fashioned black poke bonnet\u00E2\u0080\u0094Mrs\nPostill, who had driven over 16 miles or so with her son,\nand who told us she had been the first white woman in\nthe valley, and that' she would never forget all the kindness shown her in those old days by the rough miners\nand ranchers.\nBut all this while I am telling you nothing about the\nfarm itself. But where shall I begin ? Shall I describe\nto you the cattle which we took over with the farm, and\nwhich may be found anywhere within a 20 mile radius,\nor the cows who did not at all understand that their\nmission in life was to provide milk for the human species ?\nAt the outset some of these same cows resented the idea\nso fiercely that they had to be lassoed and thrown on\ntheir sides to be milked. When we were there they had\nsomewhat reconciled themselves to the new order of \u00E2\u0080\u00A2 Guisachan Farm.\n189\nthings, but the milkers had still to go and search for\nthem on horseback.\nOr shall I show you our stud of horses\u00E2\u0080\u0094the old team,\nand the new team, with the foal, Madge, who after the\nfashion of the country, accompanied her mother when\nout for work, and insisted always on running just in front\nand so impeding progress; the old white pack horse, and\ncanny Aleck, and pretty Harry from Dakota, and Pinto,\nand wise old thirty-year-old Charlie, who was none too\nold, however, to give our little girl many a delightful\ncanter, and who was a much more reliable steed than the\nwild Indian pony which had been intended for her use,\nbut who absolutely refused to bear the indignity of any\nmortal on its back, and who made good its escape to its\nfree companions, bridled and saddled, more than once,\nand had to be re-captured.\nNo; I do not think that I will detain you here, nor will\nI ask you to admire what is called the \" barn \" in Canada,\nbut what we should call the stable. I may confess that\nthat building is not in the best of repair. Nor will I ask\nyou to admire our pigs, among which we boast of some\nBerkshires; nor our white Leghorns, nor even will I\nlinger to point out the fascinating antics of the beautiful\nbut hated blue jays, the enemies of both farmer and\ngardener; nor the pranks of the magpies, who often made\nthe place lively with their chatterings and their quarrel-\nlings over some coveted bone or other choice scrap.\n'IF- 190\nThrough Canada with a\u00C2\u00BB Kodak.\nii\nii\nin\n1\nNo, but I will ask you to take a passing look at the\nbaby fir-trees which we brought out from the old Guisachan, in Inverness-shire, to be planted at the new\nGuisachan. For \"Guisachan\" means \"The Place of the\nFir,\" and though there are many firs all round about on\nthe mountains, there were none quite near the house;\nand then I must call upon you to admire our cabbages,\nany one of which would require an ordinary wheelbarrow\nas a conveyance; and then look at our glorious melons,\nand citrons, and cucumbers, and apples, even as we saw\nthem so late as in October. Unfortunately our photographs turned out failures, so you must take our word for\nit when we tell you that the melons often weigh 30 lbs.\nand more; and also when we give you the following\nexample of what an ordinary orchard produces in this\ncountry. Our next door neighbour has an orchard of\nabout a third of an acre containing twenty-four apple\ntrees, half of which are old trees and the others young,\nsome as young as four years old. This gentleman and\nhis wife have a family of four little boys, and take in\nlodgers besides, having sometimes in the summer as\nmany as fourteen boarders. The produce of the orchard\nforms a never-failing item in the menu, and one of the\nlodgers told us he could never have believed that apples\ncould be cooked in so many different excellent ways till\nhe went to lodge with Mrs Monson. But after the\npowers of the orchard had been thus taxed all through Guisachan Farm.\n191\nthe fruit season, the owner was able to sell the residue of\nthe produce for 250 dollars. And such apples ! Such\nfacts, and the knowledge of the ever-increasing demand\nfor fruit of all kinds in the North-West Provinces, will\nS.S. \" Penticton \" waiting to bear us~/iway.\ndoubtless cause the valley to become ere long a great\nfruit-producing centre. Two hundred acres of the Guisachan farm will be planted with various kinds of fruit-\ntrees this year, and with the smaller kinds of fruit, such\nas strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, currants, and\nm Ff'1\n1\n192 Through Canada with a Kodak.\ngooseberries in between. All these fruits, as well as the\napples, pears, plums, melons, &c, flourish magnificently\nand with the best possible results. Peaches and grapes\nhave also been tried, but we did not ourselves think the\nspecimens we saw were satisfactory. A number of\npurchasers have been taking up the lots subdivided for\nfruit farms by Mr G. G. Mackay, who set a good example\nin the neighbourhood by buying estates and dividing\nthem into lots. Hops, wheat, barley, and all root crops\nyield abundantly, the wheat averaging 35 bushels an acre.\nGood land for fruit growing is now fetching from 30 to\n60 dollars an acre, and is steadily rising in value. A land\nowner in the neighbourhood, owning a ranch which\nconsists of some 4000 to 5000 acres of rough hill range\nland, and 500 acres of good rich agricultural land, was\noffered 36,000 dollars for the whole. \"Not I,\" says he,\n\" Not a farthing less will I take than 90,000 dollars for\nthe property.\" \" Then do you think the men fools who\nare selling their land for 60 dollars an acre ? \" That is\njust what I do think them. I know the worth of that\nland, I tell you.\" The steady rise in price, which is going\non so far, justifies this opinion. There was one difficulty\nin the way of the grower of small and perishable fruits,\nand that was the difficulty about their transit, for though\nthe demand for fresh fruit is great, it of course cannot be\ncarried any great distance without injury. This has now\nbeen obviated by Lord Aberdeen deciding to put up a Guisachan Farm.\nIQ;\njam factory and cannery, at the head of the lake near\nVernon, where all good fruit raised in the district can be\nreceived, and this announcement has been greeted with\nGood-bye !\ngreat satisfaction. The site of the factory has been\nplaced near Vernon, both on account of the proximity to\nthe railway, and because it is near the Coldstream pro-\nN\nw 194\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nIll\nperty, which now belongs to Lord A., and part of which\nhe has entrusted to Mr Mackay x for subdivision into the\nfruit farms which appear to be so much wanted, or fruit\nfarms combined with grazing ground, for those who wish\nto raise cattle or keep dairy stock, for whieh there are\n;good openings.\nWe are often asked for advice as to what class of\nsettlers are likely to succeed in this part of British\nColumbia. There are two classes whom the country will\n-suit, (i) Men with a little capital, say not less than ^500,\nwho can buy 20 acres perhaps or more, have the means\nto plant it and cultivate it, put up a little frame house and\nbe able to support themselves until the fruit begins to\nbear. It takes four or five years for apple trees to bear,\nbut of course many of the other kinds of crops and fruits\nbear the second or even the first year. A fruit-grower\nwho is keen about his trees will have each tree numbered\n.and entered in a book, and will find delightful occupation in carefully nurturing, pruning, and watching over\neach young nursling, while he may expect an abundant\nTeward by-and-bye. There are some Qollege graduates\nnow taking up land in our district, some of whom came\nthinking of following the learned professions, but finding\nthese all full, are very sensibly devoting themselves to\n1 Since the above was written, we grieve to say that Mr G. G.\nMackay died suddenly (in January 1893), much regretted by his\nfriends and neighbours. Guisachan Farm.\n*95\nfruit-farming. (2) The second class of men who can\nsucceed are those who will hire themselves out as\nlabourers, and who will set themselves to save their high\nwages and meanwhile learn the ways of the country.\nWe are hopeful that a very good class of settler is\ncoming in amongst us, which will make the district a\ndesirable one for those who seek to find a home where\nthere will be good influences and a high tone.\nI must not forget to mention that the climate and its\nhealthfulness are great attractions. We certainly found\nthe climate a most perfect and health-giving one during\nour all too brief sojourn; but my brother gave it the\nsame character, as also did the old residents of the valley,\nwho seem never to have found out the need for a doctor.\nThe weather was a perfect \" Indian summer,\" while we\nwere there at the end of October. They have, we understand, about six weeks' hard winter with thermometer\noften considerably below zero, and two months of the\nsummer are very hot, and the mosquitoes abound far\nmore than we should like. But, taking it all round, the\npeople seem wholly satisfied with their weather. Certain\nit is that we at least agree with Mr Mackay when he said,\nin a letter to the papers, that \" if a man cannot be happy\nhere he can be happy nowhere,\"\u00E2\u0080\u0094nor a woman either,\nsay I.\nNow Lord A. says I have been writing a puff, and let\nmy enthusiasm for our holiday-resort run away with me, 196\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nbut he has to admit that all that I have said is true\u00E2\u0080\u0094and\nhe often wishes he were there.\nI am afraid I have occupied an altogether unwarrantable amount of space in the Magazine this month, and\neven now, I shall not be able to include the pictures of\nthe Coldstream Ranch in this month's issue. We felt\nvery badly when we had to wend our way to the point of\nembarkation, and sadly say good-bye and sail up the\nLake to Vernon, under charge of good Captain Shorts,\nwho knows the country well, and who fell in with our\nhumour by singing its praises.\nill\n- XIII.\nTHE INDIANS OF CANADA.\nYOU saw us off from Guisachan a few weeks ago, and\n. now this month I am afraid we must bid Good-bye\nto British Columbia, though I would gladly linger there\nwith you awhile, and chatter on about our further experiences whilst in that charming province, and about all\nour plans for the future. But it will be better to wait\n.awhile until I can tell you whether our customers at\nVernon are satisfied with our dairy supplies from the\nColdstream, and until I can explain to you the process by\nwhich we mean to try to turn out the best jams and\npreserves in the Dominion. When you get a chance of\nbuying \"Oka jam,\" mind you seize it, for nothing will\nequal it, I am sure !!\nBefore we leave the subject, however, I must tell you\nabout the Coldstream Ranch, which is ' the name of\nthe large property which Lord Aberdeen has bought\nnear Vernon.\nNot such a smart house as at Guisachan, but there\n\"is a good barn standing by the side of the house, 198 Through Canada with a Kodak.\nand in the other pictures you will see some specimens of\nour Coldstream horses and cattle, though some of the\ncreatures have spoiled their likenesses by moving whilst\nbeing photographed. You cannot judge from these\npictures of the beauty of the valley, which received the\nfollowing description from a business gentleman who was\nsent lately to survey it:\u00E2\u0080\u0094\" I wish you had been with me,\nand I think you would agree that it is not only one of\nthe richest but one of the most beautiful valleys you ever\nsaw.\" It receives its name from a stream which is always\nice-cold even in our hottest weather. A considerable\nportion of the property runs along the shores of the lovely\n\" Long Lake,\" pronounced by Lord Lome to be one of\nthe most attractive sheets of water he had seen in\nAmerica. We had a good vie'w of the lake from a spot\nwhere we picnicked one day during an expedition from\nGuisachan. This was at the other end of the lake\nfrom that on which the Coldstream is situated, and\nwhere residences are being erected on the shores, on\n\"lots\" which have already been parcelled off from the\nproperty. There is a curious feature about this lake:\nOne can see stretching across the lake what looks like a\nbridge or dam. It goes in the district by the name of\n\" the Railway,\" and is in reality the work of the skilful\nbeaver architects and workers.\nAnd now will you travel down with us to the coast\u00E2\u0080\u009E\nand see the \" Empress of India \" start from Vancouver \u00C2\u00AB:\n%\n5^\nf 2oo Through Canada with a Kodak.\nbound for Japan, China, and India ? She is one of the\nthree grand new ships built by the Canadian Pacific\nRailway, which now make communication between China,\nJapan, Canada, and England so easy and swift, that it is\npossible for letters from Japan to reach London in\ntwenty days.\nWe were very glad to have a chance of seeing over the\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2comfortable internal arrangements of the ship, with a view\nof a possible expedition in the future to that wonderful\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2country, to pick up gossip for you; and even our aversion\nto the sea did not prevent us from half-envying our\nfriends when we saw them making their start, amidst the\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2cheers of the Vancouver public, who take vast interest in\nthese boats, which are so greatly promoting the prosperity\nof their city and province. Amongst the living freight\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2carried on this occasion was a crowd of Chinamen on the\nlower deck, who, having made their fortunes, were\nreturning home to their own land. It creates a curious\nsensation to be brought face to face with this strange\npeople between whom and ourselves there seems to be a\ngulf fixed\u00E2\u0080\u0094the two races having so little in common, and\nyet, at anyrate in British Columbia, depending so largely\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0on one another. They despise us, and look on us as\nheathens, and are unwilling to let their dead bodies be\ncontaminated by resting in our soil, but endeavour to\nhave them all back to China for interment. And we, or\nat least many of us, no less unjustly despise them, and Q\n\"S\nI\no\n*^\nftp\n&\nCo\n^\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2s 202\nThrough Canada with^a Kodak.\ncall them \" Heathen Chinee,\" having but scant respect\nfor the great forces lying hidden in that vast j Celestial\nEmpire,\" of whose internal affairs and workings we are\ncomparatively so ignorant.\nBut it was not of the Chinese that I was to talk in this\npaper, but of anpther race with whom we are far more\nimmediately concerned, and concerning whom we have\nfar more responsibility. As you pass through Canada\nfrom east to west, through her thick forests and over her\nwide prairies, and her mighty mountains, it is a pathetic\nsight to see what appear to be the ghosts of a people of\nother days, stealing, gaunt and mournful, and silent, to\nthe towns and railway stations, and who, crouching\naround, watch the new race rising up and possessing this\nfair and goodly land over which they held sovereign sway\nin the times now gone by. They are an unattractive\nsight, with their deeply-lined countenances, and prominent features, bedaubed often with paint, their black\ndishevelled hair, their array of ragged squalid blankets,\nor tattered garments, to which fragments of tawdry, finery\ngive the finishing touch to an aspect of distasteful\nwretchedness. Perchance, mingling with a reflection of\nnational self-complacency that the Canadian Government\nhave on the whole dealt fairly and justly with these\nIndians within her borders, there comes also a scarcely\nacknowledged thought that it is as well for these poor\nfolk that their race is yearly diminishing, and that by-and- Indians of Canada.\n20'\nbye all traces of their existence will have vanished, save\nin museums.\nBut can we thus lightly dismiss the fate and fortunes\nof a nation whom we have disinherited ? Think of their\nposition a few years ago, ere the buffalo disappeared\nbefore the advance of the white man. They were wealthy\nin those days, wealthy after the only fashion about which\nthey cared aught. The vast plains were their undisputed\nhunting-ground, and the unnumbered herds of buffaloes\nprovided for all their needs. Food, for they lived chiefly\non buffalo, eating sometimes as much as eight or ten lbs.\na day; houses, for the tanned skins made comfortable\nand durable tents, or \" tee-pees,\" or \" lodges \" as they call\nthem; clothing, for from them they obtained their robes\nand other articles of clothing. They had bands of\nhorses and ponies to transport them and their goods\nto a fresh location, whensoever it pleased them to\nmove, and to carry them to the chase of the wild\nbeasts and birds, in which they so excelled. What\nmore did they need ?\nNow they are confined to certain portions of the\ncountry alloted to them by Government, called \"Indian\nreserves \"; they are poor, for the buffalo has mysteriously\ndisappeared within the last twelve or fifteen years, and\nthey have to depend in large measure on the charity of\nGovernment, which gives them rations of food to save them\nfrom starvation: the wild animals and birds which they\nill\n! I\n11\na\n' !04\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nloved to pursue, which supplied them with food and\nornaments, and for which they commanded a ready sale,\nare fast diminishing; they are suffering from diseases and\nvices introduced by the \" pale-faces \"; and their ideas of\nlife and civilisation so totally differ from those of their\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0conquerors that it is with the utmost difficulty they can\nset themselves to win their livelihood by what appears to\nthem the dull and distasteful work of agriculture. Small\nwonder that the red man looks sad, and listless, and\nhopeless, as he looks out on the altered conditions of life\nfor his race, and as he meditates on the future of his\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2country, which seems to have so little place for him unless\nhe alters all his habits and tastes ! An earnest effort is\nfjeing made, both by missionaries and by the Government,\nto help him to accommodate himself to the new conditions, but it is uphill work. But there is often an instinctive\nwant of trust between the two races, and a lack of understanding of one another. Wise men of science, and\nsympathetic and large-minded missionaries, are both now\nsearching into the customs, habits, and traditions of the\ndifferent tribes of North American Indians, and with a\nwider knowledge of these there will come fuller power\nto enter into their ideas and conceptions, to gain their\nconfidence, and consequently their co-operation in the\nwork of their own elevation and civilisation.\nOur ideas of the Red Indian are largely the outcome\nof the representation of him in the stirring tales of daring Indians of Canada.\n205;\nadventure and cruel ferocity, which are considered the\nfittest literature for boys\u00E2\u0080\u0094but we go no further.\nI would like to interest you in another way in these\nchildren of the plain and forest, but my knowledge is so-\nfragmentary and inadequate that I can only give you\nglimpses into that little understood world of the Indian..\nAs you know, there are many different tribes, from those\nof the East, who received the white men so hospitably on\ntheir first appearance, but who afterwards became so-\ndreaded, to those in the extreme West in British\nColumbia, who appear to be so distinct in character and\ncustoms from those east of the Rocky Mountains that I\nwill defer all mention of them until another paper..\nAmongst all these different tribes the chief religion appears^\nto consist in a belief of spirits, spirits which inhabit earth,,\nair, water, as also animals, and even inanimate things,\nand whose protection must be sought, and whose vengeance avoided. They do not, however, like other\nheathen people, make images or idols of these spirits, and\ntheir chief reverence is given to the sun and moon, and\nto one Chief Spirit, who re-appears in the legends of\nvarious tribes under different names, and in many\ncharacters.\nLet me give you here one or two examples of their\nreligious traditions, as taken down from their own lips\nby the Rev. E. Wilson, and reported by him to the\nBritish Association:\u00E2\u0080\u0094\n1\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0iv.k 2o6\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nIll\nThe Creation.\u00E2\u0080\u0094\"It had been long time night. Napi, the\nAncient, said, * Let it be day,' and it became day. Napi made the\nsun, and told it to travel from east to west. Every night it sinks\ninto the earth, and it comes out of the earth again the next morning. Napi is very old every winter, but he becomes young every\nspring. He has travelled all along the Rocky Mountains, and\nthere are various marks on the mountains which remain as relics of\nhis presence. Napi said, 'We will'be two people.' He took out\nthe lower rib from his right side, and he said, ' It shall be a woman,'\nand he let it go, and he looked on it, and he saw a woman. He\nthen took a rib from the left side, and said, ' Let it be a boy,' and\nit was a boy. Napi also made a number of men with earth. Napi\nand the men went one way, the woman went another way. And\nthe woman made women of earth, in the same way as Napi had\nmade men.\n\"At Morley, opposite the Rev. Mr Macdougall's house, and\ndown the river,\" said Big Plume, \"there is a little stream; they\ncall it the men's kraal or enclosure ; on one side of the stream is a\ncut bank and big stones; this was the men's boundary, beyond\nwhich they were not to pass. They used to hunt buffalo, and drive\nthem over the cut bank; they had plenty of meat ; they had no\nneed to follow the buffaloes; they hid themselves behind the big\nstones and uttered a low cry; this guided the buffalo to the cut\nbank, and when they were over the bank they shot them with their\nstone arrows and ate the meat.\n\" One day Napi went out on a long journey. He got as far as\nHigh River. There he saw lots of women together, with the\nwoman made from his rib, who acted as their chief. There were no\nmen and no boys there. There were a great number of teepees.\nNapi was alone. He told the women, 11 have come from the men.'\nThe woman chief said to him, 'Go home; bring all your men;\nstand them all on the top of this stone ridge ; our women shall then Indians of Canada.\n207\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2go up one by one, and each take a man for a husband.' When\nthey were all up there, the chief woman went up first and laid hold\non Napi to take him, but Napi drew back ; the chief woman had put\non an old and torn blanket, and had rubbed all the paint off her\nface, and had no ornaments on her. Napi did not like her appearance, and so he rejected her addresses. He did not know that she\nwas the chief woman. She then went back to the women, and,\npointing to Napi, said, 'Don't any of you take him.' She then\ndressed herself in her best, and painted her face, and put on her\nornaments', and went and chose another man. All the women did\nthe same. Thus all the men had wives, and Napi was left standing\nalone. The chief woman then cried aloud, ' Let him stand there\nalone like a pine tree.' Napi then began breaking away the stony\nridge with his heel, till there was only very little of it left. The\nwoman then shouted, ' Be a pine tree.' And the pine tree stands\nthere now alongside the big stones, and they still call it the women's\nkraal. Napi's flesh is in the pine tree, but his spirit still wanders\nthrough the earth.\n\" The boy made from Napi's left rib fell sick. The woman took\na stone and threw it in the water, and she said, ' If the stone swims\nthe boy will live,' but the stone sank and the boy died ; and so all\npeople die now. If the stone had floated, all people would have\nlived.\"\nHow Horses Originated.\u00E2\u0080\u0094\"A long time ago there were no\nhorses. There were only dogs. They used only stone for their\narrows. They were fighting with people in the Rocky Mountains.\nThose people were Snake Indians. They took a Blackfoot woman\naway south. There were a great number of people down there, and\nthey tied the woman's feet, and tied her hands behind her, and a\ncord round her waist, and picketed her to a stake, near the big salt\nwater. And they cried across the lake, ' See, here is your wife !'\nThen they all retreated and left her. These Big Lake people did 208\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nnot see her at all; but the waters rose and covered her ; and when?\nthe waters abated, there was no woman there, but there were lots of\nhorses. The Snake Indians caught these horses, and that is how\nhorses began.\"\nFuture Life.\u00E2\u0080\u0094\"I asked 'Big Plume' what did he think became of the soul after death? He replied that the souls of all Black-\nfeet Indians go to the Sandhills, north of the Cyprus hills (this\nwould be to the east of the Blackfeet country). What proof had he\nof that ? I asked. ' At a distance,' said the chief, ' we can see them\nhunting buffalo, and we can hear them talking and praying, and\ninviting one another to their feasts. In the summer we often go\nthere, and we see the trails of the spirits, and the places where they\nhave been camping. I have been there myself, and have seen them,\nand heard them beating their drums. We can see them in the distance, but when we get near to them they vanish. I cannot say\nwhether or not they see the Great Spirit. I believe they will live\nfor ever. All the Blackfeet believe this; also the Sarcees, Stonies,\nAtsinas, and Crees. The Crees, after death, will go to the Sandhills further north. \u00E2\u0080\u00A2 There will still be fighting between the Crees\nand the Blackfeet in the spiritual world. Dogs and horses go to the\nSandhills too ; also the spirits of the dead buffaloes. We hand these\ntraditions down to our children. We point out-to our children\nvarious places where Napi slept, or walked, or hunted, and thus our\nchildren's minds become impressed.\"\nkjPi \u00C2\u00A3.1* \u00E2\u0096\u00A0\nYou have probably heard of the Indians' medicine-bags,\nand the name suggests that medicines are carried about for\ncases of emergency, but their ideas of medicine and ours\nare two very different affairs. ;SKhen a young man grows\nup he has to find out which of the many spirits is to be\nhis special protector, and then he has to carry the symbol Indians of Canada.\n209\nof this spirit always on his person as a sort of charm.\n(From a photograph by Boorne '&* May.)\nAnd here is an account, by Mr Hale, of the way they find\ntheir \" medicine \" :\u00E2\u0080\u0094\no 2io Through Canada with a Kodak.\n\" Young men go up on to a hill and cry and pray for some animal\nor bird to come to them. Before starting out they wash themselves\nall over, and put off all their clothing and ornaments, except a\nblanket. For five or six days they neither eat nor drink, and they\nbecome thin. They take a pipe with them, and tinder and flint, and\na native weed or bark for smoking (not matches or tobacco). When\nthe pipe is filled they point the stem to the sun, and say, ' Pity me,\nthat some animal or bird may come to me !' Then they address the\ntrees, the grass, the water, and the stones in the same manner If\nany one crosses their path while so engaged, they call aloud to them\nto warn them off, saying, ' I am living alone ; do not come near !'\nWhile in this state they dream, and whatever animal or bird they\nsee in their dream becomes their medicine or guardian through life.\nThey are told also in a dream what description of herbs or roots to\ngather as their medicine, and this they collect and put carefully into\na small bag to keep as a charm. They also kill the animal they\ndreamed of, and keep its skin as a charm. No one knows what is\nthe medicine they have gathered; it is kept a profound secret. The\nlittle bag is kept in the tent, and no one may touch it but the owner,\nother Indians would be afraid to meddle with it. There is no particular age for young men to engage in the above rites. They start\naway in the evening\u00E2\u0080\u0094only in summer. Some go of their own\naccord, others are bid to do so by their fathers or elder brothers. If\nthey do not go, any sickness that comes upon them will certainly be\nfatal, or if shot by an enemy they will certainly die.\"\nThe burial customs bring out again the same belief in\nspirits, inasmuch as they bury the dead person's belongings\nwith him, and kill his pony, so that the spirits of these\nthings may be at hand for his use in the other world.\n\"The Blackfeet never bury their dead below the surface of the Indians of Canada.\n211\nsoil; they think it a horrible practice to expose the body to the\nworms and vermin that live in the ground. They either deposit the\nbodies on a hill-top or place them in a tree. Perhaps, being sun-\nworshippers, their idea is that the sun should still shine upon them\nafter they are dead. When the body is placed in a tree it is wrapped\nin blankets and put up on a rudely-constructed platform. When\ndeposited on a hill-top, or cliff, a rough kind of box is made, three\ntimes the size of a coffin, and into it are put, besides the body, all\nthat belonged to the dead person\u00E2\u0080\u0094blankets, saddle, gun, kettles,\nand everything; it is then nailed down, dragged by a pony on a\ntravoi'e to the appointed spot, and there deposited. Sometimes a\nfew logs are piled round it to keep off the dogs and wild animals,\nbut often nothing is to be seen but the rudely-made box and some\nkind of flag flying above it. When a chief dies his favourite poriy\nis brought and killed at the door of his tent; his body is then laid\nout in his own teepee, often in a sitting position, and all his posses-\nsessions are spread around him ; the edges of the tent are wedged\ndown and secured with stones, then the teepee is closed and left.\nThis is called a ' death teepee.' Travellers sometimes come across\na solitary teepee, with no signs of life around it, and, on looking in,\nare horrified to see a decomposing corpse. There is great grief when\na person dies. The people weep and howl over the dead bodies of\ntheir friends. It is usual also for the friends to throw their blankets\n-and other valuables into the coffin before it is closed. A mother has\nbeen known to wrap her last remaining blanket around her dead infant, even in the middle of winter. Mr Tims told me of a father\nwalking several miles barefooted through the snow to bury his little\nchild, having given his moccasins to his dead infant. The graves of\nthe dead are visited by the living; the people often come and hold\na feast with the departed spirits, setting aside portions of food for\nthem. The Blackfeet seem to have no dread of ghosts or spirits,\nand do not mind handling dead bodies. It is not an unusual thing\nfor a ' death teepee' even to be rifled by those bent on plunder.\" XIV.\nMORE ABOUT THE INDIANS AND THEIR CUSTOMS.\nNOW let me show you a picture of the fine old\nIndian Chief, \" Crowfoot,\" whose physiognomy\nand expression will tell you of the strength of character\nand mind that lay behind, fl He was one of the far-seeing\nIndians who understood that it was for the ultimate good\nof the country that the white men should take possession\nof the country, that railways should traverse its length and\nbreadth, though bringing destruction to the Red Men's\nhunting-grounds, and that the land should be brought\nunder the dominion of the plough. jj| He saw that the\nonly hope for the Indian was to accommodate himself to\nthe new order of things, and to co-operate with the\nEnglishmen in spreading education, and civilisation, and\nthe art of agriculture. He was of great service to the\nGovernment when the great railway across the Continent\nwas planned, and in many other ways managed to bring\nhis people to help, and not to hinder. In recognition of\nthese services he was given a pass (which you see him\nwearing in the picture) not only over the C.P.R., but ilPlli\nis\u00C2\u00A3&.\nEx\nif\nH \"'\n^^H -S\u00C2\u00A3\nBfln\u00C2\u00A3\nWM *\n^Hj&^steiL'\u00E2\u0096\u00A0\u00E2\u0096\u00A0':'\u00C2\u00A3\nH^i-iiiii\nwL 3\nHM\nHuHi:.\nCrowfoot,\" Chief of the Blackfeet.\n.$' 214\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nalso on several of the American lines of railway. He\nwas ' taken on a\nthe principal cities,\ngrand tour round all\nand was shown the\nA collection of clubs and -whips,\nwhich the Indians throw \"with\nschools, and colleges,\nmanufactories, and all\nthe great centres of\ninto everything with mar-\ntelligence, taking in mat-\nweighted \"with stones and metals,\nmarvellous dexterity.\nand institutions, and\nthat was being done in\npopulation. He entered\nvellous interest and inters which one would Indians of Canada.\n2I5\nhave thought totally beyond the comprehension of a\nman who had lived his life on the prairie. And when\nhe came back to his quarters near Calgary, he gathered\ntogether his tribe, and is said\nto have addressed them continuously for three days, describing all the marvels that\nhe ha4 seen, picturing the\nprogress of the world in terms\nof glowing eloquence, and how\nthe Indians, too, might take\ntheir share in the general prosperity if they were wise in\ntime, and would learn all that\nwas good from the white men,\nwithout following their vices.\nBut Crowfoot, who died a few years back,\nwas by no means a solitary instance of this\npower of oratory. Travellers and missionaries tell us that the art of swaying audiences\nby public speaking is very often met with,\nand that the speeches of the Indian orators\nare full of pathos and figurative beauty\nwh pn bparH hv tbnqp wbn A feather head-dress for ceremonial\nwncn ned.iu uy uiu&c wuu and war ^^^ It is morn\nunderstand the language suffi- domg the back ofthe head'\nciently to appreciate the force of the expressions used.\nMr John Maclean, who has laboured for many years\nIt\n! 2l6\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\namongst the Indians in Alberta, gives us various illustrations of such speeches in his\ninteresting book on \" The Indians and their Manners and\n[ Customs.\" We may take as\nan example part of a speech\nby \"Tecumseh,\" who, at the\nbeginning of this century,\nhelped the British so heroically in the war against the\nAmericans. When General\nBrock, in command of the\nBritish troops, was preparing\nto retreat into Canada, on\nhearing of the defeat of our\nfleet on Lake Erie, he concealed the news of the defeat\nfrom Tecumseh, fearing that\nit would have a bad effect on\nhis Indian allies. Tecumseh,\nwho had but a poor opinion\nof Brock, addressed him thus\nat a Council:\u00E2\u0080\u0094\n\"Father, listen! Our fleet\nhas gone out; we know they\nhave fought; we have heard\nbelt of feathers worn in\ntime of war and at cere-\nmonfal dances.\nV& Indians of Canada.\n217\nthe great guns; but we know nothing of what has happened to\nour father with the one arm (Captain Barclay). Our ships have gone\none way,\nand we are\nmuch astonished to\nsee our father tying up everything, and preparing\nto run the other way, without letting\nhis red children know what his intentions are. You always told us you\nwould never draw your foot off British\nground; but now, father, we see you\ndrawing back, and we are sorry to see\nour father do so without seeing the\nenemy. We must compare our father's\nconduct to a fat dog that carries its tail\nupon its back, but when affrighted it\ndrops it between its legs and runs off.\nFather, listen! The Americans have\nnot defeated us by land, neither are we\nsure that they have done so by water;\nwe, therefore, wish to remain here and\nfight our enemy, should he make his\nappearance. If they defeat us, then\nwe will retreat with our father. . . .\nYou have got the arms and ammunition\nwhich our great father, the king, sent\nfor his red child- A \" Papoose\" swathed on its cradle-board. The wooden\nprotection at the top is arranged so that a cloth may\nren. If you have be thrown over and protect the child from the sun.\n., r . A band passes round the mother's shoulders in front.\nany Idea Ot going Tnis particular cradle-board belonged to a chiefs\nawav \u00C2\u00ABive them squaw, and is richly ornamented with bead work:*-\nm 2l8\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nto us, and you may go, and welcome, for us. Our lives are in\nthe hands of the Great Spirit. We are determined to defend our\nlands, and, if it be His will, we wish to leave our bones upon\nthem.\"\nSoon after this occasion Tecumseh was killed in battle,\nand his warriors took away his body and buried it in a\nplace which no white man might ever know.\nThere is another feature in the character of the Indians\nto which we must draw special attention, and that is their\nwonderful and heroic endurance of pain, whether in times\nof war or in going through certain ceremonies required\nof them by their religious beliefs. Take, for instance,\nthe sun-dance, a great ceremony amongst many of the\ntribes, on the occasion of which the young men are made\n\"braves,\" or recognised warriors. And we must remember that the dances of the Indians, grotesque and\nstrange as they may appear, are as sacred to them as\nmany of our religious ceremonies. One gentleman told\nus that, after seeing some of his Indian friends, dressed\nand daubed in feathers and barbaric colours, going\nthrough all sorts of fantastic antics, to the sound of\nunearthly music of tom-toms and whistles and trumpets,\nin the streets of the town, he remonstrated with them,\nand asked them how such wise men as they could make\nsuch fools of themselves. And, on hearing these remonstrances, they looked much shocked and said, \" But\nare you an unbeliever? Do you not know that this Making a \" brave \" at the sun-dance. (Boorne &\" May).\nft I\nMr 22o Through Canada with a Kodak.\ndance is a solemn thing, a tribute that we must yield at\nthis time of year to the Great Spirit.\" I think these\nwords will make us recall to mind professing Christians\nwho have much in common with these Indians whom\nthey would look on as mere savages.\nBut to return to the sun-dance. On passing through\nan Indian reserve,, near Calgary, we saw a large number\nof trunks of trees leaning against one central pole, forming\na circle, and surmounted with what appeared a collection\nof rubbish, sticks, and feathers, and such like. Our\nguide explained to us that this is where the sun-dance\ntakes place, though last year, owing to the persuasions of\nthe missionaries, the ceremony did not take place, and\nthe authorities are anxious to do all in their power to\nprevent its recurrence with its attendant cruel practices.\nWe give you a picture of what a young man who desires\nto be made a \" brave \" has to go through. He first goes\nup to the pole in the centre, and, clasping his arms\naround it, prays for strength to go through the ordeal, for\nwhich he is afterwards prepared. This preparation consists in first painting the whole body a dead white, and\nthen making a slit below two muscles in the chest, underneath which a wedge of wood is introduced. The.wedge\nis then attached by cords to the top of the pole, and the\ncandidate for the honours of a brave has to sway himself\nbackwards and forwards and jerk himself until the wedge\nis torn out of his flesh by force. ' He must \u00E2\u0080\u00A2 not utter a 222\nThrough Canada with a Kodak\ngroan or a cry during the process, but is given a whistle\nwherewith he may divert himself, and he is considered\nthe bravest who laughs and jokes most during his agony,\nwhich often lasts for hours. When the ghastly object is\nat last accomplished, the newly-made brave is taken\ncharge of, often in a fainting condition, by the medicinemen, who have various processes of their own whereby to\nheal the cruel wounds. The bravery which is required\nto go through such tortures clearly shows what backbone\nthere is in the Indian character, if it can only be made\nuse of for the service of the God of love, and the betterment of* their race, instead of for such purposes as the\ndeliberate maiming and wounding of themselves in order\nto please the imaginary requirements of their Great Spirit.\nMany other stories could be told of the prairie tribes,\nwhich would excite our sympathy; but we must pass on\nin our next paper to the coast Indians, and their customs\nand arts, and home manufactures. XV.\nMANNERS AND TRADITIONS OF THE INDIANS OF\nTHE COAST AND ISLANDS.\nWHEN we were in Vancouver last year we had the\nopportunity of gathering together a small collection of Indian curios from Mr Landsberg, of Victoria,\nwho has made a practice of collecting them for many\nyears, and who intended having a great show of them at\nthe Chicago \" World's Fair.\" He gave us many interesting details regarding the use of the articles, which are\nnow displayed on the walls of one of the corridors at\nHaddo House\u00E2\u0080\u0094and some of which are now reproduced\nfor your benefit from drawings made by Mr J. Grant.\nBut besides the information there obtained, I have also\nto thank the authorities of the Smithsonian Institute at\nWashington, where a wonderful collection of Indian\ncuriosities is to be seen, for their readiness to allow me\nto make use of both printed matter and illustrations to\nbe found in a valuable publication of theirs, written by\nLieutenant Niblack, on the Coast Indians. These are\nmy authorities; and now, what shall I pick out from\nthese stores, to hand on to you ? Manners and Traditions of Indians.\n25\ncoast regions, on the adjacent islands and to\nthe north in the territory of Alaska, are altogether different in manners and customs to\nthose races of the interior about whom I\nhave tried to tell you a little in previous\npapers. Their outward appearance is different too\u00E2\u0080\u0094they are of shorter height, the\ncheek-bonesj are less prominent, the nose is\nstraighter, and the face rounder and fuller,\nand many hold them to be of Mongolian origin, and that they must\nhave crossed over from Asia by the\nBehring Straits \u00E2\u0080\u00A2 in times gone by.\nCertain it is that they had attained I\n\u00E2\u0096\u00BA*{\nno small measure of civilisation and \u00C2\u00A7\n*^\na very complex tribal organisation ^\nbefore the white men arrived. I *\nwill not trouble you with the names '3\nof the different tribes, nor as to ^\nwhich of them the special customs\nto which I shall refer belong; some |\nare common to all, and some are the ||\nspecial property of the Salish, or |\nthe Flingit, or the Haida, as the ^\ncase may be. \"f\nNow, first I will ask you to look\nat the picture of part of an Indian\np\n/\" '/.\nWi M\n226 Through Canada with a Kodak.\nvillage in the Prince of Wales's Island (page 224).\nWhat do you think the carved columns in front of each\nhouse represent ? \"Idols,\" of\ncourse you will say. Nothing of\nthe sort. These columns are\ncarved in devices which are to\nthem what crests are to us, and\nsignify that the persons using that\ndevice belong to the same clan, or as\nthey call it, the same \"totem.\" The\nprincipal totems are the Crow, the\nRaven, the Bear, the Beaver, the Eagle,\nthe Wolf, and the Whale. ^Representations of these animals, or of other objects\nwhich are used as the signs of totem,\nare carved on these totem columns outside the house, on mortuary and commemorative columns, on the articles for\nhousehold and ceremonial use, and are\ntatooed on the skins. Look at the model\nof one of these columns which we have\nin our collection. At the top is Hoots,\nthe brown bear, who is the totem of the\nhead of the household who erected it.\nHoots is wearing one of the grass hats,\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2f| made by Indians, but the signifi-\n6\"%sj;SZ^^\"ss- cance of this here is unknown. Manners and Traditions of-Indians. 227\nTsing, the beaver, the totem of the wife and children, is-\nat the bottom of the column, and between the two is\nrepresented Tetl or Yetl, the great Raven, the benefactor\nof mankind, about whom many wonderful stories are\nrelated. His coat of feathers could be put off or on at.\nMask used for ceremonial purposes and formerly for war. The\nJaws move by pulling a string. The face is painted with\ntotemic designs.'\npleasure, and he had the power of transforming himself\ninto any form he choose to assume. He existed before\nhis birth, will never grow old and cannot die; and\nendless are the adventures told of his peopling the world,\nand providing men with fire, fresh water, fish, game, &c.r 228\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nand how he fought for them against their great enemy,\nSetim-ki-jash. Often some of these stories are illustrated\non these columns, and thus they become representations,\nnot only of the totemic relations of the household, but\nalso of the general legends or folk-lore believed in by the\ntribe. But they are in no sense idols, though they\nrepresent objects which the Indian\nregards with superstitious respect; he\nbelieves that there exists between him\nand his totem an intimate and altogether special relation, which he must\nrespect if he is to receive protection.\nIf his totem is an animal, then he will\nnot kill any of its class, and if it be a\nplant he will not cut it or gather it.\nThose belonging to the same totem\nmay not marry, and thus it comes about\nthat the wife and her children belong to\na different totem to that of the head of\nthe household. In the northern coast\ntribes, too, rank and wealth and pro-\nRattle used in cere- f. 5 r\naisfbya\u00E2\u0084\u00A2shamaivvfy descend through the mother,\nCarlZZmt'oZtlc according to the system known as\ndesigns. \"matriarchy\" or \"mother-rule,\" a\nsystem which has often been found to exist amongst\nprimitive races; but in southern tribes of British\nColumbia this has given place to \"father-rule,\" or\n\u00E2\u0096\u00A0 Manners and Traditions of Indians. 229\nposition and inheritance being obtained through the\nfather. But if a father has special reasons for wishing his\nchild to belong to his own totem, asr for instance, if he is\na chief, and desires his son to succeed him, he must\ntransfer him to his own totem by handing him over to his\nMedicine-man.'s apron. Totem of eagle worked in red cloth, and\nbelow three rows of puffin beaks to rattle as \"wearer moves.\nown sister, who will figuratively adopt him and thus change\nhis totem.\nThe ties which bind the members of the same totem or\nphratry (an organisation in which several totems unite\ntogether in some tribes) remind us much of the ties ^3\u00C2\u00B0\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nill\n\!l:\nexisting between the members of our old Scottish clans.\nIf an Indian arrives at a strange village, where he has\nreason to fear hostility, he will at once look out for the\nhouse whose carved post indicates that its master belongs\nto his totem. And there he is sure in any case to receive\nprotection and to be received with honour. If, again, a\nmember of a tribe is captured and carried off by another\ntribe, it is the duty of those of his own totem in the\nenemy's tribe to offer to redeem him and to send him\nback to his own tribe, when his own relatives are expected to pay back the redeemer whatever he may have\nexpended.\nThe relationships and customs which spring out of\nthese totemic organisations are endless, and full of\ninterest, and are now receiving the investigation from\nmen of science that they deserve. It is well that these\ninvestigations should have been set on foot, for the old\nways and customs and traditions are fast disappearing,\nand it is only the older Indians who can give reliable\ninformation on the subject, and they are often very\nreticent and unwilling to give up their knowledge to\nstrangers.\n\" Then, again, the occasions on which the ceremonial\ndances and feasts, or \"pot-latches,\" can be witnessed are\nbecoming few and far between, owing to the discouragement given to them by the Government, who are anxious\nto prevent the Indians from ruining themselves and Manners and Traditions of Indians. 231\nsquandering their substance at these feasts,- as they were\nwont to do. We had an opportunity, however, of seeing\na whole village start forth to one of these \" pot-latches,\"\nand a curious sight it was. The whole population came\n3 fl \Chiefs coat, made or beautifully-tanned buckskin and edged \"with\nvelvet and fur. These coats are often covered over with\ntotemic designs.\nforth, arrayed in garments of very diverse and very\nbrilliant colours, and mounted their herd of scraggy little\nponies. Lord Aberdeen joined a group, and tried to\nglean some information as to what it all meant, from an\n11 Through Canada with a Kodak.\nw,\nilA\nllE\nm\nv/\nold man who.was evidently of some importance amongst\nhis fellows. But he was not communicative, and we\ncould not at all understand why so many riderless and\nburdenless ponies were being driven along by the feast-\ngoers, until it was explained to us\nthat the important feature of a\n\"pot-latch\" was a distribution of\n'^ presents to all the guests, and that\nthese ponies were being taken so\nas to bear back the expected gifts.\nThese feasts are great events in the\nhistory of a community, and are\nprepared for by the giver long in\nadvance, for these are the occasions\nwhereby men are able to advance\nthemselves in the estimation of their\nfellows, and whereby they hope to\nattain position and honour, and\npossibly a chieftaincy. They are\non various occasions: on\n(m,>, '\nv\nFringed leggings to wear given\nwith chief's coat. Each\nlegging used separately, marriage, on the naming of a child,\non the building of a house, or on the important\noccasion of the rearing of one of the carved columns\npreviously described, and in which work the guests\nare all expected to assist,\u00E2\u0080\u0094or it may be given for\nno particular reason beyond the desire of making a figure.\nAn ordinary man confines his invitations to the inhabit- Manners and Traditions of Indians. 233\nants of his own\nvillage, but a chief\ninvites those of\nthe neighbouring\nvillages also. All\nsorts of property\nare given away at a\n\" pot - latch \"-\nponies, guns,\ncanoes, robes,\nblankets, furs,\ndishes, spoons,\nbowls, ammunition, ornaments,\nand, in former\ntimes, slaves; and,\nre\nf\naccording to a custom not unknown in\ncivilised regions, the\nwealthy guests re-\n*?\nChiefs bead - embroidered girdle, gambling bag, dagger\nsheath, and pistol\npouch. Used for\nceremonial occasions IS *\n234\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2ceive the best presents, and the poor ones the shabby\nones, such as a worn-out blanket or a strip of cloth.\nPrevious to the ceremony the host gathers together\nhis near relations, and, with their aid, makes out a list of\nthe presents to be given to each individual. On the\nBow and arrows and buckskin actually used by an old chief\nguests assembling, the goods are all displayed about the\nwalls or on poles, or piled up on the floor. The host\nstands or sits in ceremonial attire, and presides over the\naffairs with a ceremonial baton in hand. The herald\nblows a whistle, extols the position and the virtues of the Manners and Traditions of Indians. 235\ngiver of the feast, calls out a name and the present which\nthat person is to receive. The host nods his head\nsolemnly, thumps on the floor with his baton, and an\nattendant takes\nthe article'and\ndeposits it be-\nCarved wooden bowl of beautiful shape, and covered with\ntotemic designs.\nfore the recipient. During the\nintervals, or at\nthe end, dancing, feasting,\nand singing are indulged in, and the ceremony may\nat times prolong itself to several days. It need\nscarcely be added that the receiving of such presents\ninvolves a suitable return on some future occasion.\nIt has been mentioned\nthat dancing takes place at\nthe entertainments I have\ndescribed, and many of the\nIndian curiosities which we\nhave brought home are\nBone bark scraper. This is used for .--i r j nrrtn\nscraping off the inner bark of the artlCieb OI tire&b ur urild-\ncedar, &*c, beating it down, pre- , j r \u00E2\u0080\u00A2 i\nparatory to separating it into fibresment USeO tor Ceremonial\nfor \"weaving purposes. n . ,. , .\ndancing on these and other\nfestive occasions. We must not think of Indian\ndancing being such as that to which we are accustomed, in which the whole company takes part; but 236\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nil\nit is rather a show performance by the few, the performers being both men and women, whilst others sing\nor play the drum, shake the rattles, blow the whistles,,\nand thump on the ground with batons to mark the time,\nand the spectators sit round and look on, and signify\napplause by grunts and cries of laughter. Niblack\nclassifies three classes of dance\u00E2\u0080\u0094(1) the stately, dignified, and formal; (2) the wild, passionate, and furious;\n(3) the ludicrous; but, he adds that \" the method of\ndancing them is the same, the movements being slow, or\nexaggerated, as the case may be. It consists mainly in\ncontortions of the body and hips, with the feet firmly\nplanted and the knees slightly bent. The body is\nwriggled and swayed from side to side with redoubled\nanimation and fury as the dance advances, but the legs\nremain bent at about the same angle, and the feet play\nonly a small part in the so-called dancing itself.\" Masks\nof all descriptions are worn at these dances\u00E2\u0080\u0094some with\neyes that roll and jaws that move, others representing\nanimals with snapping beaks. Then there are ceremonial\ncoats and leggings, and finely worked girdles in beads or\nin cedar-bark\u00E2\u0080\u0094blankets worked out in totemic designs,\nand woven in a curious way with the warp of cedar-bark\nhammered out, and the woof of fine mountain goat's\nwool (which is found under the animal's outer covering\nof hair), and batons, wands, head-dresses, ceremonial\nspears, bows and arrows and I know not what besides. Manners and Traditions of Indians. 237\nThese articles of apparel are reserved now for these\nfestive occasions, as for ordinary life the Indians have\nadopted the European costume. There is one ceremonial head-dress used by a chief (represented in the illustration) which I should\nlike you specially to notice. It is carved\nfrom hard wood, painted and inlaid with\nabalone shell, and hanging behind are\nthree lengths of ermine skins; round the\ntop we see remains of a fringe of seal\nwhiskers which surmounted the headdress, and inside which was placed a\nquantity of birds' down, which, through the\nmotion of the dancer, would fall like snow\naround him at his will. This birds' down\nwould also be blown from tubes and\nscattered otherwise by the dancers, and\nsometimes it would also be powdered over\nthe paint used on the face and body, thus\n.giving the performer a most startling appearance.\nThe list of these paraphernalia gives you\n. some idea of the advanced stage to which\nthese Indian races had brought their industrial arts\nand crafts before the advent of the white man. Their\ncarving, as shown on the totemic columns, funeral and\n-other chests, and \u00C2\u00ABon the spoons, bowls, and other\nSpoon carved\nfrom the horn\nof a mountain\nsheep\u00E2\u0080\u0094beautifully executed.\nI'M 238\nThrough Canada with a Kodak\nhousehold utensils, both on wood, horn, slate, and silver,\nis marvellous, more especially when the rudeness of their\ninstruments is considered. Their weaving of cloth from\ncedar-bark and wool has already been alluded to, but\ntheir expertness as basket-weavers, canoe-builders, tanners of hides, dyers, and designers, should also be mentioned. These handicrafts are carried on mostly during\nthe winter by men and women alike, and Mr Niblack\ntells us that the women are quite on an equality with\nthe men in the matters of industrial organisation, that\nthey do a great portion of the trading, and that they\ntake part in the councils. In times of war it was\ngenerally an old woman of rank who steered the war\ncanoe.\nUnlike the Indians of the interior, the coast Indians\nare neither good shots nor good hunters as a rule, and\nseek to obtain their game largely by means of traps, but\nas fishermen they are unequalled, and we -cannot compete,\neven with our most modern contrivances, with their skill\nwith their crude implements. The Indians parcel out\nthe territory belonging to them, near their villages, in\nhunting, berrying, and fishing grounds for each household,\nand their summer camps can be seen near where the\nsalmon run in greatest abundance. Those who have\nwatched the salmon rush up these streams in vast shoals\nspeak of it as a marvellous spectacle: the fish hurling,\nthemselves over rocks and waterfalls in. their endeavours Manners and Traditions of Indians.\n239*\nto surmount all obstacles. The Indians reap their\nharvest at these times, and never a hook is used. That\nwould be far too slow work\u00E2\u0080\u0094they are either speared or\ncaught in nets, as a rule. But in the catching of all sorts\nof fish the Indians cannot be surpassed, and we saw all\nmanner of hooks, spears, clubs, floats, nets, and baskets, which they make and use to such good pur-\nTwined basketry hat. The twining consists of weaving the woof\nstrands round a series of -warp strands. Totemic designs are\npainted on this hat, \"which is used for dances. Plain hats of\nthis description are used in an ordinary way by both men and\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2women.\npose in catching all kinds of the denizens of sea,.\nand river, and lake. Their fish form a main staple\nof their food, along with the wild berries that grow in\ngreat abundance. Both the fish and berries are dried\nfor the winter's use, and, in former times, if the winter\nproved long and severe, the Indians were often in want\nbefore the fishing began. Now they have learned to\ncultivate potatoes and other roots to help them through Through Canada with a Kodak.\nwith their winter's supplies. The fish are cut into long\nflakes, and dried without salt, in the sun, over a slow fire,\n-or in the shade of the dwellings. It is eaten by bits being\nbroken off and dipped into the oil, which is the universal\naccompaniment of all food. They make a great quantity\nof oil from bear, deer, goats, seals, porpoises, and all\nkinds of fish. The fish are allowed partially to putrify,\nand are then boiled in wooden boxes by means of hot\nstones dropped in the water. The grease or oil is\nskimmed from the surface, and is stored in boxes, or in\nthe holy stalks of giant kelp, which are first dried and\nmade pliable with oil. The oil, unfortunately, is often\nrancid, and this, along with the decomposed roe of fish\nand putrified salmon heads, both of which are esteemed\na great luxury7, pervade the Indian dwellings with an\n\u00E2\u0080\u00A2odour distressing to the visitor. Efforts have been made\nto convince them of the insanitary nature of this food,\nand not without success. The inner bark of spruce,\nhemlock, and pine, and sea-weed is also used as an article\nof food, pressed into cakes. One species of sea-weed is\nused for making a dish called sopallaly, of which the\nIndians are especially fond. It is made by breaking up\na piece of the dried sea-weed cake into little bits in a\nbowl, and adding warm water. It is then beaten with a\nwooden spoon, and sugar and sometimes berries are\nadded. The mixture froths and foams like the white of\nan egg, and is consumed with avidity. Manners and Traditions of Indians. 241\nThere is much else that I would like to tell you about\nthe customs and tradition of this interesting race, but my\npaper is growing too long, and I fear that I may weary\nyou. But I have not shown you anything of the sad side\nof the picture\u00E2\u0080\u0094how contact with the whites has demoralised the Indians, how they have intensified the\nvices of the latter, and how they have\nintroduced new ones\u00E2\u0080\u0094for example, the\nuse of strong liquor, such as rum and a\nconcoction called \" hoochinoo\" a poison-\nously impure distillation from potatoes.\nGambling is a passion with most of the\nIndians, and we have amongst our collection a specimen of one of the gambling-\nbags which they carry about, and which\nare full of small round sticks, which\nserve them as cards, and on wrhich are\nfound various marks, distinguishing one\nfrom the other. The Governments,\nboth of British Columbia and Alaska, are doing\ntheir best to restrain the drinking and immorality\nand gambling which have played such havoc amongst\nthe tribes, and the missionaries are carrying on a\nvigorous work amongst them. These coast tribes are\nmuch more susceptible to the influences of Christianity\nthan the tribes of the interior, and the Roman Catholics\nestablished successful missions at an early date, which\nQ\nTobacco pouch, \"with\ntotemic painted\ndesigns. \u00E2\u0096\u00A04-\nThrough Canada with a Kodak.\nare still flourishing. The Episcopal and other Churches\nare also at work, and Bishop Sillitoe, of New Westminster, told us that a very marked advance may now\nbe seen in the habits and customs of the people. On\none occasion lately he was received after a confirmation\nceremony to luncheon by an Indian lady dressed in\nlavender silk, and a table spread out with preserved\nfruits and all sorts of delicacies. Advance is also being\nmade in the education and training of the children, and\nat Yale Lytton, a lovely spot in the mountains, we had\nthe opportunity of seeing a number of bright, attractive-\nlooking little Indian maidens being trained as servants.\nBut I have so little authentic information as to the work\nof education and missions amongst these Indians that I\ncan only touch on the subject, and hope that I may have\nsufficiently interested you in these fellow-subjects of ours,\nwhom we have dispossessed, to make you wish to hear\nmore of this side of the subject on some future occasion^ APPENDIX.\nTHE LATE SIR JOHN A. MACDONALD,\nPrime Minister of Canada.\nBy J. G. Colmer, C.M.G., Secretary at the Office of the High\nCommissioner for Canada.\nIn the July issue of \"Onward and Upward,\" the death of the\nRight Honourable Sir John Alexander Macdonald was briefly\nreferred to, and a promise made that some particulars of his career\nshould be given in a succeeding number. The Editor has been kind\nenough to afford the opportunity of writing a few words about the\ndeceased statesman ; and I will try, in the space at my disposal, to\ntell my readers what a great and good man he was.\nIt is not necessary to say very much about the early days of Sir John.\nHe was born in Glasgow in the month of January, 1815, and went\nto Canada in 182I5 with his parents, who were Sutherlandshire\npeople. The party of emigrants settled down near Kingston, on the\nshores of the beautiful Lake Ontario, and the subject of this little\nsketch remained identified with the \"Limestone City,\" as it is called,\nto the day of his death, for, with the exception of one or two\nintervals, he was its representative, first in the Parliament of Old\nCanada, and then in that of the Dominion, ever since 1844. Both\nhis father and mother were of good families, but at the time of their !44\nAppendix.\n^settling in Canada were not, to use the ordinary phrase, \"well off\"\nfrom a money point of view. They were, however, good, sensible,\npeople, and it is to their care, and watchfulness, and to their\nexample and training, that Sir John owed most of the remarkable\nsuccess that he achieved. They contrived to give him as good an\neducation as could be obtained at the time. He acquired a fair\naverage knowledge of classics, and an enormous appetite for reading,\nbut it seems that he especially excelled in mathematics, and in\nalgebra and Euclid he was the \"show\" boy of the Kingston\nGrammar School, and the pride of his master. As a lad, he had\nthe peculiar appearance which he retained through life, and one of\nhis biographers describes him in his school days as having \"a very\nintelligent and pleasing face, strange fuzzy-looking hair that curled\nin a dark mass, and a striking nose.\" Although full of fun, and\nblessed with high spirits, he was always a hard worker ; and this is\nthe great secret of the advancement and progress of most of our\ngreat men. Mr Macdonald was bent on making young John a\nlawyer, and this object was kept in view in his studies. At the age\nof fifteen he entered a local \" law office,\" and was called to the bar in\n1836, when he reached man's estate.\nThe next stage was to open a law office on his own account, and\nas he showed so much ability and diligence in any work he undertook,\nand, besides was so popular in Kingston and its neighbourhood, he\nsoon acquired the leading practice of the place ; and his efforts,\nalthough unsuccessful, in the defence of a man named Van Schultz,\nwho, in 1838, tried to create a disturbance in Canada, and entered\nthe country with a number of men from the United States, added\ngreatly to his reputation and gave him a place on the ladder of fame.\nMr John Macdonald, as he was* then termed, first entered\nParliament in 1844, as I have already stated, and the fact that he\nbecame a member of the Administration three years later, shows\nthat he soon assumed a prominent position in the political arena. Appendix.\n245\nFrom that time, down to the present, his history is that of his\nadopted country\u00E2\u0080\u0094or, to put it more definitely, of Old Canada up to\n1867, and of the Dominion since that year, when several of the\nMemorial bust of Sir John Macdonald placed in St Pauls\nCathedral, and unveiled by Lord Rosebery, Nov. i8g2.\nscattered Colonies of British North America agreed to unite under\none form of Government. Space will not permit of my discussing,\nat any length, the events which lead up to the Confederation, but -246\nAppendix.\nt-\nPi\nI\nI may say that the union of Upper and Lower Canada, in 1840,\nwas not found to work easily and smoothly, and there seemed to be\nno way out of the difficulties that were created until 1864, when the\nMaritime Provinces were discussing a closer union among themselves at the suggestion of Dr Tupper, now Sir Charles Tupper,\nthe High Commissioner for Canada, in London, whose career is\nanother instance of what ability, energy, and assiduity can accomplish. Well, the long and the short of it was that Canada proposed\na much wider union, one which would include all the Colonies;\nafter much negotiation this was brought about, and the new\nDominion, with Sir John as the Premier of the first Government,\nentered upon that era of rapid devlopment, and progress, which has\nbeen witnessed' in the last twenty-four years, and has attracted\nattention all over the world. Sir John, as we must now call him\n(for he received the honour of knighthood in 1867, in recognition\nof his work), may not have been the originator of the idea of\nfederation, and all the wonderful things that have happened since\nthen may not, as the children say, have come \" out of his own head.\"\nStill it is generally accepted that much of Canada's success is due to\nhis ability, tact, patience, knowledge of detail, and the remarkable\nfaculty he possessed of conciliating conflicting interests, and smoothing away difficulties. To appreciate the result of the life and\nlabours of Sir John Macdonald, it is necessary to know something\nof Old Canada fifty years ago, as well as of the great Dominion of\nto-day. Then British North America consisted of the Maritime\nProvinces and Canada, the country west of the Lake Huron to the\nPacific Coast being under the control of the Hudson Bay Company\n(the provinces of Manitoba, the North West Territories and British\nColumbia not being then organised), the great hunting grounds of\nIndians and trappers, and the home of the buffalo (now extinct), and\nmany other fur-bearing animals. There were only sixteen miles of\nrailway in operation, and all the provinces were as separate and dis- Appendix.\n247'\ntinct.from each other as are Canada and Australia to-day. What\nCanada is now the Editor has told us in a delightful manner in this-\ninteresting book, descriptive of her journey in 1890, which journey,\nby the way, would not have been possible but for the efforts of Sir\nJohn Macdonald and his colleagues to consolidate the Dominion by\nthe building of the Canadian Pacific Railway, and other public\nworks.\nI have nearly come to the end of the space allotted to me, and I\ncannot write all I should like to say about the many wise measures,\nwith which Sir John Macdonald's name is especially identified, besides those dealing with the formation of the Dominion, and the\nconstruction of the great railway, which have helped to make the\ncountry what it is to-day. But I may add that, apart from the high\nposition he occupied as a statesman, which was recognised in every\npart of the Empire, he was in his social life a most charming man.\nNo one was more popular in the Dominion among old and young,\nand no one had more friends. To be in his society was both\npleasant and profitable, for he was full of reminiscences and anecdotes, had read everything that is worth reading, and was gifted\nwith a wonderful memory. He was the recipient of many honours\nfrom Her Majesty, and his loss has been lamented, not only in the\nUnited Kingdom (which found expression in the memorial service\nin Westminster Abbey), but from one end of Canada to the other.\nThere is very general sympathy with Lady Macdonald in her great\ngrief, and the announcement that the Queen has conferred a peerage\nupon her, in recognition of her husband's great services to the\nEmpire, has given much satisfaction. It is said that a memorial is\nto be erected to Sir John's memory in St Paul's Cathedral, and the\nproposition is such an excellent and appropriate one that it is sure\nto receive much support. His life affords an example that may well\nbe followed by all young men, both \" at home \" and in the colonies;\nfor it shows, in the first place, what a man can do for the good or H\n248\nAppendix.\n1\nhis country, if he throws his heart and soul into his work; and,\nsecondly, the opportunities for advancement that exist in the\nColonies for those who adopt the right methods to earn success.\nHe said of himself, nearly twenty years ago, in the course of a great\nspeech, \"There does not exist in Canada a man who has given\nmore of his time, more of his heart, more of his wealth, or more of\nhis intellect and power, such as they may be, for the good of this\nDominion of Canada,\" and those who knew him think that no more\nappropriate epitaph could be written on the tomb of the lamented\nstatesman than those very words.\nOn the occasion of unveiling the memorial to the late\nRight Hon. Sir John Macdonald, in St Paul's Cathedral,\non 16th November 1892, the Earl of Rosebery said:-\nMy Lords, Ladies, and Gentlemen,\u00E2\u0080\u0094It gives me great pleasure\nto come here to-day to unveil this bust. We are gradually collecting within this cathedral the Lares and the Penates\u00E2\u0080\u0094the household\ngods\u00E2\u0080\u0094of our commonwealth. Up above there sleep Wellington\nand Nelson, those lords of war who preserved the Empire ; below\nhere we have the effigies of Dalley and Macdonald, who did so\nmuch to preserve it. We have not, indeed, their bodies. They\nrest more fitly in the regions where they lived and laboured; but\nhere to-day we consecrate their memory and their example. We\nknow nothing of party politics in Canada on this occasion. We\nonly recognise this\u00E2\u0080\u0094:that Sir John Macdonald had grasped the\ncentral idea that the British Empire is the greatest secular agency\nfor good now known to mankind; that that was the secret of his\nsuccess, and that he determined to die under it, and strove that\nCanada should live under it. It is a custom, I have heard, in the Appendix.\n249\nGerman army that when new colours are presented to a regiment\nthe German Emperor first, and then his Princes and chiefs in their\norder, each drive a nail into the staff. I have sometimes been\nreminded of this practice in connexion with the banner of our\nEmpire. Elizabeth and her heroes first drove their nails in, and so\nonward through the expansive 18th century, when our flag flashed\neverywhere, down to our own times, when we have not quailed or\nshrunk. Yesterday it wrapped the corpse of Tennyson ; to-day we\ndrive one more nail in on behalf of Sir John Macdonald. But this\nstandard, so richly studded, imposes on us\u00E2\u0080\u0094the survivors\u00E2\u0080\u0094a solemn\nobligation. It would be nothing were it the mere symbol of violence\nand rapine, or even of conquest. It is what it is because it represents everywhere peace and civilisation and commerce, the negation\nof narrowness and the gospel of humanity. Let us then to-day, by\nthe shrine of this signal statesman, once more remember our responsibility and renew the resolution that, come what may, we will\nnot flinch or fail under it.\nHomeward Bound. \nW H. White & Co., Printers, Edinburgh. "@en . "Other Copies: http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/30360154"@en . "Travel literature"@en . "FC73 .A24 1893"@en . "I-1014"@en . "10.14288/1.0222331"@en . "English"@en . "Vancouver : University of British Columbia Library"@en . "Edinburgh : W. H. White & Co."@en . "Images provided for research and reference use only. For permission to publish, copy, or otherwise distribute these images please contact digital.initiatives@ubc.ca."@en . "Original Format: University of British Columbia. Library. Rare Books and Special Collections. FC73 .A24 1893"@en . "Canada--Description and travel"@en . "Through Canada with a Kodak. With illustrations"@en . "Text"@en .