EASTWARD l,l1ll"M'])||i|]tt]Tfn^^ ■roftt. LaAMLOiOM* £t)/M£f EASTWARD Across Canada by Ccwia(£icut uoci^ic The World's Longest "Dome" Route VANCOUVER BARNET PORT MOODY COQUITLAM PITT MEADOWS PORT HAMMOND HANEY ALBION WHONOCK RUSKIN SILVERDALE MISSION CITY HATZIC DEWDNEY NICOMEN DEROCHE HARRISON MILLS AGASSIZ WALEACH RUBY CREEK KATZ ODLUM HAIG CHOATE YALE SPUZZUM CHINA BAR NORTH BEND CHAUMOX KEEFERS KANAKA CISCO LYTTON Geographically and historically the Canadian Pacific main transcontinental line is unique. From tidewater to tidewater, the world's longest — and Canada's only — "dome" ride is packed with thrills. Between the Pacific and the Rockies and between the Great Plains and the east you retrace the trail of the famous explorers who opened the great North American continent three and a half centuries ago and from the luxurious comfort of your all-stainless-steel train trace the course of the rushing rivers, mighty lakes and dangerous rapids they conquered. The scenic grandeur of the Canadian Rockies first burst upon Scots whose names live in the mighty rivers that parallel your ultra-modern journey. Across the prairies, penetrated first by the French, your view encompasses the very trails marked by early expeditions and hardened by the creaking wheels of covered These great men of the past lead you, in the air- conditioned comfort of a high-level "Scenic Dome", through forests and lake-lands; the rich Pre-Cambrian Shield; gentle farm-lands, by inland seas, between great wheatfields, beside roaring streams through the mountain passes. In the wake of the explorers you see, through the picture windows on four sides of you, The Fraser Valley, the Rockies, Lake Louise, Banff, Lake of the Woods, Lake Superior, French River, Muskoka, the pleasure-lands of the Gatineau; mines, mills, factories, great cities — Vancouver, Calgary, Medicine Hat, Moose Jaw, Regina, Brandon, Winnipeg, Fort William-Port Arthur, Sudbury, North Bay, Ottawa. Your swift journey across a continent will be filled with memories you will want to treasure. This brief guide has been prepared to help you remember. waggons. For operating reasons each sub-division through which the only "Dome" route in Canada passes, numbers its mileage afresh from east to west. Mileage boards on telegraph poles mark each mile. From your comfortable seat in one of the Scenic-Domes of "The Canadian" or "The Dominion", diesel-drawn from the start to the finish, you will be able to identify each point of interest by noting the nearest mileage board quoted in the context below. Busy Burrard Inlet on the left, harbours deep-sea fishing craft, tankers, freighters, tugs. To the left, mileage 115 marks Port Moody — original terminus of the Canadian Pacific, the world's first transcontinental railway. The Coquitlam River is crossed at mileage 112.3. Coquitlam, population 3,000, is almost a Vancouver suburb. At Port Hammond the line crosses the Pitt River, meets the Fraser. Mission City, junction with the Mission sub-division, serves a busy fruit and dairy country. From here Mount Baker is 40 miles due south. Wild roses climb on any convenient hold. Garnets found at Ruby Creek gave that station its name. Sawmills and fruit packing plants gather trucks around them. Agassiz, population 2,600, is the station for Harrison Hot Springs, and site of a government experimental farm. Ferries connect the dairying Chilliwack Valley. The Fraser, a wide and placid river, makes its way through the lush, alluvial valley. At Odium the Fraser and Coquihalla Canyons debouch at the rail junction of the Banff-Lake Louise and Coquihalla Canyon — Crowsnest Pass Canadian Pacific routes. The giant rock, mid-river at mileage 23.5, shows why Simon Fraser had to claw his way down river by a series of Indian-built bridges. Yale, once head of navigation, was the start of The Cariboo Road, built 1862-5 by order of Governor James Douglas, over which thousands of miners and millions in gold travelled 400 miles to the Cariboo field. West of Spuzzum, at 15.5, a steel and concrete bridge spans the Fraser where the first suspension bridge west of the Rockies was built years ago by Joseph Trutch. Don't miss, between mileages 8 and 7.4, "Hell's Gate", and "The Devil's Wash Basin" with its spinning whirlpool. From Vancouver to North Bend the track, still hemmed between mountains, has a gradient of less than four feet in a mile. Starkly beautiful, the Fraser Canyon is as memorable as its stark history. The foaming Scuzzy River is spanned at mileage 5.5. The canyon has widened into benchlands and gardens. Orchards, some in Indian Reservations, are much more common than at higher levels —- Chaumox is 568 feet above sea level. North Bend, first of 24 sub-divisions between Vancouver and Montreal, a railway town noted for its rich foliage and flowers, begins the Thompson "Sub". ^ THOMPSON Near Cisco the line crosses to the left bank of the Fraser. Three tunnels pierce the rock between mileages 102.7 and 101.2. At Lytton, Simon Fraser found a well-established native community apparently centuries old. The present town had its heyday in the Cariboo gold rush days. Note the difference of the two waters as they join, the Thompson — filtered by lakes — clear, the Fraser, murky with silt its speed has carried down. The right bank of the river now flattens to a narrow plateau and, across from mileage HECTOR STEPHEN -<^T LAKE LOUISE CASTLE MOUNTAIN GLADWIN THOMPSON DRYNOCH SPENCE'S BRIDGE TOKETIC SPATSUM BASQUE ASHCROFT SEMLIN WALHACHIN SAVONA CHERRY CREEK TRANQUILLE KAMLOOPS MONTE CREEK PRITCHARD SHUSWAP CHASE SQUILAX ELSON NOTCH HILL CARLIN TAPPEN SALMON ARM CANOE SICAMOUS SOLSQUA CAMBIE MALAKWA CRAIGELLACHIE TAFT THREE VALLEY REVELSTOKE GREELY TWIN BUTTE ALBERT CANYON GLACIER STONEY CREEK ROGERS BEAVERMOUTH DONALD FORDE MOBERLY GOLDEN LEANCHOIL FIELD 95, merges with the Fraser. Across the river from mileage 93.5 Botanie Crag, a mottled granite crest, overhangs the gorge. At mileage 91 The Painted Canyon leads the river to the hissing "Jaws of Death". The rails climb higher toward Spence's Bridge to meet the Merritt sub-division. The Nicola River is crossed at mileage 71. South, near mileage 54, is 6500-foot Glossy Mountain, followed at 52.5 by Black Canyon. Between mileages 13.8 and 8.5 six tunnels — five of them in 1-54 miles — take the line through the glacier-scarred rock. Tran- quille, named for an early Indian chief of gentle nature, is best known for James Huston's discovery of gold in 1856 or 57 — the start of the Cariboo gold rush. Kamloops, begun as a Hudson Bay Company post in 1812 is now a city of 14,000. The Thompson and Shuswap sub-divisions meet here. The city's beginning was Fort Thompson, built by The North West Company in 1813. The North Thompson, flowing from almost true North, joins the south branch at Kamloops to flow westward as The Thompson, which widens near mileage 4 into Kamloops Lake. The South Thompson River was named by Simon Fraser in honour of his fellow North West Company explorer, David Thompson. Thompson, who never saw the streams named for him, was the first man to trace the Columbia from its source to its mouth, in 1808 — three years after the Lewis and Clark party saw the lower reaches. Gentler country and the widening river herald the lakes, shadowed on the right by the Ptarmigan Hills. At mileage 87.5, Shuswap Lake begins. The Salmon River is bridged at mileage 64.8, then passes between Mount Hilliam, Black and Squilax Mountains on the left, and Notch Hill to the north. Salmon Arm, population 2,000, is a noted fruit-packing and shipping centre. In this country Douglas fir, Ponderosa pine and lodge-pole pine is interspersed with grass lands. The marshy fringes of the lake shelter and feed Great Blue Heron and Canada Geese as well as the more commonplace wild duck. Shuswap Lake almost surrounds Bastion and Vella Mountains on the left, Salmon Arm is the branch paralleled by the railway. Sicamous, junction with the Okanagan subdivision, is famous for its wild ducks. Watch them come to the shore for bread crusts —- they'll cluster near the dining-room car. SELKIRKS ~.-'uMg£jWi&};:J< Mileage 44.4 is the junction of Shuswap and Mara Lakes, and you follow the Eagle River, crossing it five times between mileages 43 and 31. At mileage 28.3 a simple cairn marks the last spike—driven, November 7th, 1885, when the Canadian Pacific linked east and west. Melting snow from the Hunter Range, right, feeds Kay Falls (mileage 22). Last crossing of the Eagle River is made at mileage 15.4. Three Valley station is named for the lake and valley to the right. Victor Lake, at mileage 10, on the left, reflects wooded slopes. On the right, Summit Lake is occasionally obscured by three short tunnels between mileages 9.5 and 9. Now, to the right, Mounts Macpherson and Bigbie appear and we trace the Tonkawatla River eastward through Eagle Pass, gateway from the Monashee Range to the Columbia Valley. A long bridge takes us across the mighty Columbia. Ahead and to the left is Mount Revelstoke. Just past mileage one, look left for the entrance to Mount Revelstoke National Park. Junction of the Shuswap and Mountain sub-divisions on the main line, and the connecting Arrow Lakes "sub", Revelstoke has a population of 3,500. The stalwart Selkirk Mountains stand between us and the Rockies. Rocky Box Canyon is an abrupt exit from the valley as the Illecilewaet River roars westward beneath us at mileage 122.3. On the left is Mount Revelstoke Park. Albert Snowfield lies to the south, its tip may be seen, right, near mileage 109, on the east slope of Albert Peak (9,998'). On the left between mileages 103-2 is spectacular Albert Canyon. Snowsheds and tunnels between mileages 96 and 94 are interesting, and the 10 crossings of the Illecilewaet River between Revelstoke and Glacier. Glacier, western portal of Canada's longest tunnel, is the station for Glacier National Park, 521 square miles in area. The track followed the foaming Ille-r cilewaet River most of the way from Revelstoke. Left and right of mileage 88 are Cougar Mountain and Ross Peak, and farther south, Mount Green marks the western boundary of the valley of Flat Creek, seen from mileage ^3*2^ - Ahead, Mount Macdonald rears its 9,482- foot peak directly across the railway, its top more than a mile above the track level. The original Canadian Pacific line climbed laboriously through Rogers Pass, rising 500 feet, a tortuous route nearly 10 miles long through four and a half miles of snowsheds. In 1916 the Connaught Tunnel, five miles long, was driven through the mile-high mountain. Besides saving four and one third miles the concrete tunnel, 29 feet wide and 21% feet high, eliminated curves equal to seven circles. The last pinpoint of light from the western portal disappears just as the diesels emerge into the Beaver River Valley at Connaught. At mileage 77, a spectacular 270-foot waterfall is spanned by a curved bridge, Stoney Creek. Almost as spectacular are Surprise Creek (74), Raspberry Creek (73.7) and Mountain Creek (70.7). To the left is Glacier National Park and the lower slopes of Mount Rogers (10,525'). Ending the north-easterly skirting of the valley at mileage 67.8, Rogers, the line soon crosses the Beaver River. Dvie North is Cupola Mountain, last peak of the Selkirks and the beginning of the magnificent "Big Bend" of the Columbia, last seen at Revelstoke. From Beavermouth, where the Beaver enters the Columbia River, another picturesque canyon leads eastward to the Rockies. The Columbia is crossed near Donald and, at mileage 44.8, is joined by the Blaeberry. To the left is the Van Horne Range, and through right-hand windows, the Dogtooth Mountains. Near mileage 34, look left for the village of Edelweiss, builf~by~ The Can-^ adian Pacific for Swiss guides available for mountaineers. Next comes Golden, junction of the Lake Windermere sub-division, and busy centre for the Columbia Valley. Now the valley narrows into the Lower Kicking Horse Canyon, and high on the wall, right, at mileage 30 can be seen the "Old Man of the Mountain". Between mileages 33 and 21.4 the rails bridge the river five times. At 26.5, both are spanned by a highway. Skirting the Beaverfoot Range, the track turns sharply at mileage 15.3. Look to the right at mileage 13 for 10,881- foot Mount Vaux and beyond to the glacier between Allan and Hanbury Peaks. Mount Dennis and Mount Duchesnay are on the right, to the left Otterhead Creek and the Amiskwi River form a broad, divided valley. THE SPIRAL TUNNELS Field, in Yoho National Park, junction of the Mountain and Laggan Sub-divisions, is also the junction of the Mountain and Pacific Time Zones. Eastbound travellers advance their watches one hour. Across the river, a motor road follows the Emerald River valley to Emerald Lake, site of rustic Emerald Lake Chalet, a Canadian Pacific resort. One of the most spectacular examples of railway engineering in the world, the famous Spiral Tunnels, demands your attention now. Six miles east, as the crow flies, but 11^4 miles by train and 1,265 feet higher, is the Great Divide -— highest point on the Canadian Pacific railway. To reach this elevation BANFF the track reverses itself twice in the tunnels. To the left, mileage 133.6, across the Kicking Horse, is Mount Field (8,645'), ahead, up a long slope, is the lower tunnel entrance. This tunnel, 2992 feet long, turns 226 degrees while climbing 50.4 feet. To your right as the train emerges, mileage 131.3, is the Yoho Valley, guarded by Mount Wapta (9,106') and Mount Field. Beyond them stands Mount Burgess (8,463'). Now headed west the train crosses the now fast-running Kicking Horse, mileage 130.6, to enter the tunnel under Cathedral Mountain (10,454') at mileage 129.7, with Mount Stephen (10,485') in excellent view on the right, and another good view, also to the south, of the Yoho River and its valley. In 3,255 feet, the tunnel curves 288 degrees and climbs 55.7 feet. From the exit, 129.1, a magnificent view, left, of the Yoho Valley and Kicking Horse Canyon, unfolds. Immediately below you see the tunnel entrance. Between mileages 127.5 and 127 to the left, you see entrance and exit of the lower spiral tunnel. From mileage 126 Cathedral Crags (10,- 071') and Vanguard Peak are visible on the right as are the lush Yoho Valley and Mount Ogden at the left. The Kicking Horse River, narrow and fast, hisses and bubbles in the headlong rush down the hill you have just climbed. Sink and Summit Lakes, feeding pools for the Kicking Horse, mark the end of the pass, Lake Wapta, on the left at Hector Station, reflects Paget Peak and Mount Bos worth to the north. You're "on top of the world" at mileage 121. Look right for the sign, "The Great Divide". This boundary of Alberta and British Columbia, one mile and 52 feet above sea level, marks the peak of the watershed. Here a small brook divides into two streams that lead: to the Pacific via the Kicking Horse River, and the Columbia; to the Atlantic by way of the Bow and — eventually — Hudson Bay. Four miles south of mileage 112, Mount Temple towers 11,626 feet, ranked by Protection, Redoubt, Ptarmigan, Saddle, Sheol, Haddo, Aberdeen, Mount Victoria and Fairview. Lake Louise station, named for the glacier-fed lake 1000 feet above, leads to Chateau Lake Louise, Moraine Lake Lodge in the Valley of the Ten Peaks to the south, and the Columbia Icefield 85 miles by motor road to the north. A Canadian Pacific mountain resort, Chateau Lake Louise faces one of the world's most beautiful scenic gems, Victoria Glacier and Lake Louise. & CANMORE EXSHAW KANANASKIS SEEBE OZADA MORLEY RADNOR COCHRANE GLENBOW BEARSPAW ROBERTSON CALGARY OGDEN SHEPARD INDUS DALEMEAD CARSELAND STRANGMUIR GLEICHEN CLUNY CROWFOOT BASSANO LATHOM CASSILS BROOKS TILLEY ALDERSON SUFFIELD BOWELL REDCLIFF MEDICINE HAT DUNMORE PASHLEY IRVINE WALSH HATTON KINCOimf MAPLE CREEK CARDELL CROSS PIAP0T SIDEWOOD TOMPKINS CARMICHAEL GULL LAKE ANTELOPE WEBB BEVERLEY SWIFT CURRENT AIKINS WALDECK RUSH LAKE HERBERT MORSE ERNFOLD UREN CHAPLIN SECRETAN PARKBEG MORTLACH CARON BOHARM MOOSE JAW PASQUA MADRID BELLE PLAINE PENSE GRAND COULEE REGINA PILOT BUTTE BALGONIE McLEAN QU'APPELLE INDIAN HEAD SINTALUTA WOLSELEY SUMMERBERRY GRENFELL ROCKIES The tall, cloud-wreathed peak south of mileage 109 is 10,309-foot Storm Mountain. Ahead and to the left the battlements of Mount Eisenhower loom into view. Eight miles long and 9030 feet at its highest peak, this mammoth upthrust was renamed in 1946 as a tribute to the world war service of the 34th President of the United States. Pilot Mountain (9,680), Massive (7,990) and Mount Bourgeau (9,517') — in the distance — are on the right from mileage 93. In the distance, left from mileage 83, is Mount -Edith-(8^370^)—— TtearerHook-tip-Hhe «liff for a huge cave, "Hole in the Wall". Look right at mileage 82 for the turrets of Banff Springs Hotel showing above the pointed lodge-pole pines. To the left the Vermilion Lakes usually harbour feeding moose. The meadows that floor the Bow Valley between Banff and Lake Louise often show you deer and elk. Mount Norquay, to the left, has a scenic ski-lift, popular the year round, to the right you see the Bourgeau Range. Banff, winter population 2,500, is a town of 8,000 in the summer, dominated by Banff Springs Hotel, which overlooks the valleys enclosed by Sulphur, Tunnel and Rundle Mountains, is the park headquarters. Movies, hospital, hotels, boarding houses, and tourist bungalows provide vari-priced accommodation. The Banff Springs golf course, besides being spectacular scenically, is of championship quality. Look all around you at mileage 72. Carrot Creek, crossed at this point, flows from the Fairholme range on the left, where also are seen Mounts Peechee (9615 feet), Girouard (9875) and Inglismaldie (9715). To the right (south) is Mount Rundle (9665), Cascade Creek, its course traceable to 9,826-foot Cascade Mountain, left, parallels the line until it turns sharply south to join the Bow. Now, ahead and to either side, the full glory of the Canadian Rockies unfolds. To the right, the triple-peaked Three Sisters pose for cameras and to the left near mileage 71, the eastern entrance to Banff National Park straddles the highway. The Park encloses 2500 square miles in which birds, animals, wild flowers and trees are protected by the Government of Canada. Near mileage 62, on the steep slopes of the shoulder of the Fairholme Range on the left, sharp eyes may detect bighorn sheep. This geological formation is locally known as "The Gap" and here, definitely, the word "mountains" no longer applies. *#8F n RANGE COUNTRY" Now, on the right, the Bow widens into Lac des Arcs where mallard and Canada Geese are seasonally visible. Just where the mountains end and the foothills begin is for you to decide. The whole contour of the land changes as your "Scenic Dome" follows the sleek diesel locomotives down the winding valley. At mileage 51.8 the Kananaskis River joins the Bow — Ozada, the station name, from the Indian, means "forks of the river". The Bow River, leading the Canadian Pacific from the passes that pierce the Rockies, swings under the train to the left at mileage 25.7. Morley, site of the Stoney Indian reservation, has a population of 700 Indians and 30 whites, its Indian School has 10 teachers for the 60 pupils. The Stoneys, who take part each year in Banff's "Indian Days" celebrations, work traditional designs in leather, quills and beads, entering their designs for prizes. Braves compete in riding, roping and other skills. West of Calgary, the suburban growth of recent years impinges on the range lands for a few miles, but until the Bow River is crossed at mileage 7.7, the sight of grazing cattle is quite frequent. Less picturesque now that "levis" are eastern vacation garb, the cowboy still looks a part of his horse and the cattle-covered grazing land sprawls on the slopes of the foothills. Affectionately referred to as "Cowtown", "Foot-hills City" and, latterly, "Oil City", Calgary justifies all three names. It was founded as a North West Mounted Police post, Fort Brisebois, in 1875 at the junction of Nose Creek with the Bow and Elbow rivers. Oil "strikes" in the vicinity in recent years have added importance to this city of 127,001 people who annually celebrate the "Calgary Stampede", an outstanding Rodeo. A Canadian Pacific hotel, The Palliser, pinpoints the downtown area. Calgary is the meeting point of the Laggan and Brooks sub-divisions. South and behind now the rising foothills and beyond them the taller peaks of the Rockies fade. In the foreground, Calgary's outskirts are marked by the Canadian Pacific "Ogden" Shops. fi fi ^fiflr>TNE PRAIRl£S For many of the 175.8 miles between Calgary and Medicine Hat, the economy is one of cereal grains grown on irrigated land. Irrigation was first recorded in 1879 and by the time the Canadian Pacific transcontinental line was completed, 79,000 acres were under irrigation. By 1917, when the Eastern and Western Irrigation Districts were formed, the Canadian Pacific—pioneer in those areas — had spent more than $25,000,000 on irrigation. At Shepard, the Strathmore sub-division joins the main line. Indus was appropriately named for the great river that irrigates much of Pakistan. Gleichen serves 12,000 irrigated acres and Bassano marks the junction of the Irricana and Bassano sub-divisions with the main line. At mileage 96.6 an irrigation canal is bridged and at mileage 87.6 and 76 lakes occur. Cassils is the centre of 4,200 acres of irrigated land, and Cassils sub-division junction. Headquarters of the Eastern Irrigation District of 167,000 acres is at Brooks, population 2,500; and Tilley is the shipping point for 25,000 irrigated acres. Medicine Hat, population 18,285, famed for its natural gas, pottery and cut flowers, niarks the confluence of Ross and Seven Persons Creeks, with the South Saskatchewan River. The Canadian Pacific route through the southern Rockies via the Crowsnest Pass and Coquihalla Canyon, branches off to the south and the Swift Current sub-division takes over our main line train. Saskatchewan's sloughs interest conservationists and hunters. Alkali lakes, visible to the south from time to time, yield sodium sulphate for the nickel and paper industries of Ontario and Quebec. Oddly named Seven Persons Creek, at mileage 146.2, commemorates the massacre, many years ago, of seven Blackfoot Indians by Assiniboines. Between Irvine and Mackay Creek, four streams are crossed. Box Elder Creek is spanned at mileage 112. Imperceptibly^ the land is—sloping downward--to the east. Walsh is the last station in Alberta. The Saskatchewan boundary is crossed before Hatton, junction for the like-named sub-division, is reached. Maple Creek, population 2,500, is named for the stream crossed at mileage 84.9. Wild fowl are plentiful in lakes at 80.4 and 75.5. Right, mileages 40-39, is Whitegull Lake and at Gull Lake the Antelope and Gull Rivers are crossed. Webb and Beverley, loosely bound a Canada Geese flyway. Swift Current, a city of 8,000, at an altitude of 2,432 feet above sea level, marks the steady descent from the Rockies' level. Here the Swift Current sub-division takes over Canada's only "Dome" trains. At mileage 110 Swift Current Creek, a tributary of the Sovith Saskatchewan River, is bridged. Moose Jaw, where the Indian Head subdivision starts, with a population of 26,000 is Saskatchewan's third largest city. The Swordfish Club is one of the few boating clubs on the Prairies — you can see it, right, from the "Dome". Pasqua, where the Soo Line from Chicago, Minneapolis and St. Paul connects with the Canadian Pacific, is the Indian word for Prairie. Regina, "Queen of the Plains", is a tree- shaded city of 74,000, built around lovely Wascana Lake. The Provincial Legislature and Canadian Pacific's Hotel Saskatchewan dominate the landscape for miles. Once headquarters of Canada's scarlet-coated Mounted Police, Regina is now the Dominion training centre for that proud force. OAKSHELA BROADVIEW PERCIVAL WHITEWOOD BURROWS WAPELLA RED JACKET MOOSOMIN FLEMING KIRKELLA ELKHORN HARGRAVE VIRDEN ROUTLEDGE OAK LAKE GRISWOLD ALEXANDER KEMNAY BRANDON CHATER DOUGLAS HUGHES CARBERRY MELBOURNE SIDNEY AUSTIN MACGREGOR BAGOT BURNSIDE PORTAGE LA PRAIRIE HIGH BLUFF POPLAR POINT REABURN MARQUETTE MEADOWS ROSSER BERGEN WINNIPEG N.TRANSCONA OAKBANK HAZELRIDGE CLOVERLEAF LYDIATT MOLSON JULIUS SHELLEY WHITEMOUTH DARWIN RENNIE TELFORD INGOLF LOWTHER BUSTEED LACLU KEEWATIN KENORA MARGACH SCOVIL HAWK LAKE PINE EDISON VERMILION BAY GUNNE EAGLE RIVER MINNITAKI OXDRIFT DRYDEN BARCLAY WABIGOON DINORWIC DYMENT TACHE RALEIGH OSAQUAN IGNACE BONHEUR MARTIN ENGLISH RIVER NIBLOCK UPSALA SAVANNE RAITH BUDA FINMARK KAMINISTIQUIA MURILLO WEST FT. WILLIAM FORT WILLIAM PORT ARTHUR MACKENZIE LOON PEARL OUIMET DORION HURKETT RED ROCK NIPIGON ROSSPORT SCHREIBER TERRACE BAY JACK FISH NEYS COLDWELL ANGLER MARATHON HERON BAY HEMLO MOBERT REGAN WHITE RIVER AMYOT FRANZ LOCHALSH MISSANABIE DALTON BOLKOW NICHOLSON CHAPLEAU NEMEGOS KINOGAMA KORMAK RIDOUT SULTAN WOMAN RIVER RAMSAY BISCOTASING Captain John Palliser, a British surveyor, once classed this country as arid. Look at it today, the granary of the world where hard wheat is raised on 25,000,000 acres. At Indian Head are government-operated entomological laboratory, experimental farm and forest nursery station. At Broadview, watches are set ahead to Central Standard Time and the Broadview sub-division is entered. The Saskatchewan-Manitoba boundary is crossed at mileage 74.7. Crees and Assiniboines once roamed the acres now being farmed, to serve which the McAuley sub-division connects at Kirkella and the Neudorf at Virden where you will see, at left, producing oil wells. Oak Lake, to the southwest, is a tourist resort. At Griswold there is an Indian Reservation. Brandon, a city of 21,214, with an experimental farm, Indian School, Hospital, College and annual Provincial Exhibition, joins the Broadview sub-division to the Brandon "sub". At the city's eastern outskirts the Assiniboine River is bridged. Portage La Prairie, population 8,500, where the Minnedosa sub-division branches off, was named by La Verendrye who built Fort la Reine in the 1730's to protect the 15-mile land route between the Assiniboine River and Lake Winnipeg, base of the Hayes and Nelson river routes to Hudson Bay. From here La Verendrye's sons Pierre and Louis made their way to the Rocky Mountains, likely in Wyoming. Pierre, N.D., bears its explorer's name. The Second Prairie Plain, westward from Winnipeg, was travelled by La Verendrye and his sons, 1736-43, first whites in the Red River country. Later, oxcart trains were succeeded in the 1880's by the Canadian Pacific Railway to which is directly traced the settlement and development of the great Canadian west. West of Winnipeg station the great marshalling yards attest the linking of grain and transportation. From Stevenson Field, the international airport, Canadian Pacific Airlines serve Churchill on Hudson Bay. To the south is the Assiniboine River, bearer of the early canoes and later York boats of the Hudson Bay Company. The suburbs of Winnipeg announce that great city's imminence. Here La Verendrye established his Fort Rouge in 1738 but 90 years elapsed before real settlement began with the erection of Fort Gibraltar by the North West Company. In 1811 Lord Selkirk obtained a grant of 100,000 acres of Red River land for colonization. Fort Garry, a stone building of the Hudson's Bay Company is maintained as a relic of early days at Winnipeg, as is the "Countess of Dufferin", the earliest locomotive in the west. The Royal Alexandra Hotel and the Provincial Parliament Buildings are features of modern Winnipeg at the confluence of the Red and Assiniboine Rivers* Y€J LENDRYES RAIL Typical prairie agriculture reigns eastward to Lydiatt, but from Molson, where the Lac du Bonnet sub-division crosses the main line, the transition from prairies to the central coniferous region, marked by a 40-mile marshy fringe, is apparent as far as mileage 50. Manitoba is left behind and Ontario entered at mileage 33.4, and a land of lakes becomes a natural holiday resort. Keewatin is the starting point for expeditions to the Black Sturgeon Lakes and Sturgeon River area. Kenora, which La Verendrye named Rat Portage Because of a mass muskrat crossing he saw from his fort on the west shore of the Lake of the Woods, is a popular summer resort — especially beloved of fishermen. With a population of 9,103, it is the junction of the Ignace and Keewatin sub-divisions. Pierre Gaultier de Varennes, Sieur de la Verendrye, early in the 18th century, accompanied by his sons Jean, Pierre, Louis and Francois, made his way from a post built by earlier explorers near the mouth of the Kaministiquia River in 1678 through the Lake of the Woods country to the western plains. The trail he blazed was followed in turn by traders of the North West Company, circa 1801, Lord Selkirk and his settlers, Colonel Wolseley and other illustrious men. The next step as we retrace these journeys brings us to Island Lake, spanned at mileage 139. Then come Vermilion Bay, Eagle Lake, mileage 89 and Beaver Creek, mileage 86 — all names that recur across the continent. Names of Indian origin are often met, too: "Wabigoon", meaning "white flower", crossed at Dryden, a town of 3,000 and again at mileage 27.7, and Osaquan, the river crossed at mileage 6. The heavily wooded territory is interrupted by Ignace, start of the Kaministiquia sub-division, site of an early mission founded by the French. Trees, rivers and small game characterize the land from here to the Great Lakes. At mileage 139 we cross the Gulliver, the Scotch at 112 and the English River at mileage 110.9. The Beaver is spanned at 100 and the Firesteel at 88.5. The northeast arm of the "Lake of a Thousand Lakes" is seen at mile, age 71, and on the right, mileage 51, McGhie Lake. Tributaries of the Oskondaga are spanned near 48.5, and the Matawan River is bridged twice, mileages 27.5 and 23.4. Fort William, at the mouth of the Kaministiquia River, connects the Kaministiquia and Nipigon sub-divisions. Here your watch sho.uld be advanced one hour to Eastern Standard Time. Port Arthur and Fort William, known as "The Lakehead" ports handle more than 2500 ships of around 7,000,000 tons a year. Huge grain elevators and many factories support a combined population of 66,000. L*K€ SUP€RIOJ NORT«StfOR€ "The Sleeping Giant", proud guardian of the lakehead harbour, is lost to view at mileage 123; Loon Lake station serves Sibley Provincial Park which includes the craggy promontory. Pearl River is crossed at mileage 96.3, the Coldwater and Wolf at 84 and 83. Lake Superior, lost to sight, reappears again at Red Rock, 15 miles across a peninsula. Named for the colourful local stone, the town turns out 800 tons of puip i*6ardT "and paper daily. An arm of Nipigon Bay is crossed near mileage 65 and the Nipigon River at 62.4, In the next few miles, Kama Bay, at 50, and Jack Pine River, 45.4, are bridged. In the bay to the south, Isle Saint Ignace, site of an early mission, faces Grant Point, Mountain Bay, Rainboth Point, Gravel Bay, Crow Point and Pays Plat Bay. The track occasionally cuts across capes, leaving the North Shore of Lake Superior temporarily out of sight. Schreiber marks the junction of Nipigon and Heron Bay sub-divisions. An Ontario Hydro-Electric Power Commission plant, generating 53,000 h.p., is passed at 112.8 and the Aguasabon River at mileage 110.5 Terrace, another new development, population 1597, centres around a 325-ton paper mill. Now you need eyes on both sides of the "Dome". The track curves and bends to the contours of the rugged coastline, negotiates a miniature bend as a rehearsal and then takes the spectacular horseshoe turn around Jack Fish Bay, mileages 97.5 - 99.5. Eastward to Heron Bay views of the great lake are magnificent. Literally "as old as the hills" the rocky north shore of Lake Superior is, geologically, almost the oldest land in the world. This edge of the Pre-Cambrian Shield is comparatively young in recorded history — less than 350 years. The bold indentations of the coast were first observed by explorers in the early 17th century who made their way westward by canoe. Today the "North Shore" has an economic significance Pere Heron and his contemporaries could not have imagined. Jack Fish is a commercial shipping point. The Steel, Prairie and Little Pic rivers enter the bay at mileages 94.8, 90 and 81. Between the great curve and Coldwell stretch the white breakers that mark the rocky, indented coastline. At Marathon, population 3000, 325 tons of sulphate is the daily production. Peninsula Bay is visually filled with rafts of timber from the forest lands to the east, towed from Heron Bay to feed the mills. Between Marathon and Heron Bay, mileage 56.4, a last look to the right brings Lake Superior, largest body of fresh water in the world, into view for the last time. On the left a spindle- legged flume carries pulpwood to the harbour. At Hemlo a barking mill handles 150,000 cords a year. -THE GREAT LAKES «>REST Pulpwood is king in the country now ahead of yovir Scenic Dome, between mileages 40.5 — 32.9. Cache Lake, Cache Creek and Cedar Creek come into sight. Also on the left is Cedar Lake and river. The White River is bridged at mileage 24.7. Supply centres in this forest area include Mobert — with O jib way Indian settlement and Hudson's Bay post — and Regan. Fast, white water calls strongly to outdoorsmen. White River station is named for the river we are to meet again. Here the White River sub-division begins and meteorological records are kept. The Pickerel River is crossed at mileage 122.6 and the White River at mileages 129.2 and 117.6. On the right Lake Negwazu parallels the track for miles — almost to Amyot, tourist centre for this fishing and hunting district. Franz marks the crossing of the Canadian Pacific by the Algoma Central and Hudson Bay Railway. South lies a hunter's paradise. At Missanabie, Indian name for "big water", another crossing occurs—this not so modern. This was a stop on the water route between Lake Superior and James Bay in the early days of trapping and trading. Chapleau, population 3,936, is district headquarters of the Ontario Departments of Lands and Forests and Game and Fisheries as well as the junction of the White River and Nemegos sub-divisions. Rivers and lakes too numerous for naming feed the stands of jack pine, tamarack, hemlock, balsam, fir, spruce, maple, oak, birch, elm, ash and hazel that abound. North of Nemegos, titanium and iron claims have been staked. The station name is short for the Nemegosanda River, first of four crossed between mileages 120 and 99. In order follow Aspiskanagama, Kinogama and Ridout. METAGAMA POGAMASING GENEVA CARTIER WINDY LAKE LEVACK LARCHWOOD CHELMSFORD AZILDA SUDBURY ROMFORD DILL WANUP BURWASH PAGET DELAMERE RUTTER BIGWOOD FRENCH RIVER WANIKEWIN PICKEREL PAKESLEY BEKANON BRITT BYNG INLET NAISCOOT MANBERT PTE. AU BARIL SHAWANAGA CARLING NOBEL PARRY SOUND DOCKMURE OTTER LAKE BLACK ROAD ROSSEAU ROAD BRIGNALL GORDON BAY LAKE JOSEPH MACTIER RODERICK BALA SEVERN FALLS LOVERING MEDONTE EADY CARLEY CRAIGHURST MIDHURST ESSA YPRES BAXTER ALLISTON BEETON TOTTENHAM PALGRAVE HUMBER BOLTON KLEINBURG WOODBRIDGE WESTON WEST TORONTO PARKDALE TORONTO ROMFORD CONISTON WANAPITEI MARKSTAY HAGAR WARREN VERNER CACHE BAY STURGEON FALLS MEADOWSIDE BEAUCAGE NORTH BAY CORBEIL NOSBONSING BONFIELD RUTHERGLEN EAU CLAIRE MATTAWA KLOCK DEUX RIVIERES BISSETT STONECLIFFE MOOR LAKE BASS LAKE WYLIE CHALK RIVER PETAWAWA PEMBROKE MEATH SNAKE RIVER COBDEN HALEY'S PAYNE RENFREW MAYHEW CASTLEFORD SAND POINT BRAESIDE ARNPRIOR PAKENHAM SNEDDEN ALMONTE CARLETON PLACE ASHTON STITTVILLE WESTBORO OTTAWA WEST HULL WEST HULL OTTAWA BLACKBURN NAVAN LEONARD HAMMOND BOURGET PENDLETON PLANTAGENET ALFRED CALEDONIA SPGS. McALPIN VANKLEEK HILL STARDALE ST. EUGENE RIGAUD DRAGON CHOISY ALSTONVALE HUDSON HEIGHTS HUDSON COMO ISLE CADIEUX VAUDREUIL (Dorion} ILE PERROT (Terrace) STE. ANNES (Ste. Anne de Bellevue) BAIE D'URFE BEAUREPAIRE BEACONSFIELD POINTE CLAIRE CEDAR PARK LAKESIDE VALOIS STRATHMORE PINE BEACH DORVAL SUMMERLEA GROVEHILL MONTREAL WEST WESTMOUNT WINDSOR STATION MONTREAL Biscotasing, Ontario Forestry Service flight base, is popular with tourists; Metagama with hunters who outfit here for fishing, too. Lumbering is in evidence on many of the rivers, such as, at mileage 25, Pogamasing and, crossed at 17.5, the Spanish River. This area roughly defines the eastern edge of the Great Lakes Forest Region. Cartier ends the Nemegos and starts the Cartier sub-divisions. On the right at mileage 104.5 is Windy Lake. Now watch both sides of the line for evidence of mining and smelting, mileage 82-81. The mineral basis for Sudbury's population of 60,239 is evident in the surrounding country. Copper ore was discovered when the Canadian Pacific line was built in 1883 and Sudbury's prosperity began. Today, nickel leads the diversified industrial activities. W. OLD •HUftONIA The description "Old Huronia" applies only to part of the route travelled from Sudbury to Toronto. The establishment of the first white settlement west of Montreal at Sainte Marie, three miles from Port McNicoll, in 1639, makes this territory significant. Until the opening of a road from Toronto to Georgian Bay in the early 19th century, the major route to the east was by way of the French River, Mattawa-Ottawa River route. From Sudbury the line skirts Ramsay Lake and, at Romford, leaves the main transcontinental line. To the left, mileage 117.5, the Coniston smelter appears, last sign of the rich mineral belt, and the Wanapitei River, mileage 112.9, marks the boundary of the Sudbury Game Preserve. Occasional elk may be spotted as far south as Kakakiwaganda Lake near mileage 103. Left, opposite French River Station, is a Bungalow Camp, headquarters for modern explorers of the French River, crossed just beyond the station, which races between rocky banks towards Georgian Bay. This was the vital link for explorers and traders 350 years ago. At mileage 81 the Pickerel River is crossed and parallels the track for half a mile. Right, at mileage 4.9, a needle-like inlet of the big bay is Pointe au Baril, popular summer resort. Scattered lakes on both sides of the "Dome" mark the way to Georgian Bay, sighted first, right, at mileage 26. At Parry Sound, population 5,000, noted fishing and hunting centre, look left from the Bridge for Seguin Falls. The Seguin River is crossed again at 22.6, the Boyne at 20, and Otter Lake Narrows at 17. Occasional rocky outcrops trace the edge of the Canadian Shield and Lakes Joseph and Stewart, left at mileages 3.5 and 1.2 herald the Muskoka Lakes. MacTier joins the Parry Sound and Mac- Tier sub-divisions. On the left, look for Lake Muskoka, the Moon and Mishkosh Rivers, to the right, Bala Falls and Bala — entrance to the Muskoka Lakes. A good sample of this lake and river vacationland is the long finger lake seen, left, at mileage 111.5. Here, too, is the fringe of Old Huronia, entered by rail from Medonte, junction for Port McNicoll, eastern terminal port for the Canadian Pacific Great Lakes Steamships that ply west to Sault Ste. Marie and Fort William — the canoe route used by early explorers. Travellers who break their rail journeys embark within three miles of the recently excavated and partly re-constructed settlement at Sainte Marie. Nearby, the Martyrs' Shrine commemorates Fathers Brebeuf, Daniel, Jogues and Gabriel Lalemant who were killed in the area. At its height the settlement housed 60 white religious and lay workers who served almost 3000 square miles of savage country. The high bridge at mileage 68 offers a fine view of historic Huronia as you enter a reforestation area, keyed by the Ontario Provincial Forestry Station at Midhurst. Near Ypres Junction, Camp Borden, largest military establishment in Canada, occupies 50 square miles. Amongst the busy towns passed between here and Toronto is Alliston, birthplace of Sir Frederick Banting, co-discoverer of insulin, and centre of prosperous tobacco growing. Rolling farm lands lead down to lake level again, busy suburbs — first residential, then manufacturing — mark the Ontario Capital's outskirts and the tall buildings on the lakeside city herald the end of the longest "Dome" ride in the world. NIPISSING -**£*•* Coniston develops the mineral wealth of the surrounding country. Here a mattcnsmelt- er, four blast-type furnaces, a concentrator and sintering plant support a population of 2,425. Now, lumber, pulp and fishing become economic mainstays; the Wanapitei, bridged at 67.3, is fishing water. So are the North Veuve River, crossed five times between mileages 58.6-57.4; Stag Creek, bridged at 41.5 and Bear Creek, at mileage 39. The Big Sturgeon River rapids, just west of Sturgeon Falls station, gave the town its name. Due south, across Lake Nipissing, the French River forms a natural water gateway to Georgian Bay and today, many holiday- makers are as familiar with the rapids and portages as were the early traders, missionaries and explorers. From "dome" cars, the lake is visible as far west as Beaucage. Three hundred and fifty years ago Champlain, Radisson, Brebeuf, Lallemant, Nicolet, Joliet, Brule, Duluth, LaSalle, La Verendrye, Marquette, and their un-remembered companions turned due west at Mattawa; paddled laboriously up the Mattawan River, and made their way to Lake Nipissing, the French River and Georgian Bay by lake-chains and portages. Some went west via Lake Huron and Lake Superior, others south by Lakes Huron and Michigan. Their route, in general, you retrace, a few miles south of the lake and river chain. Today's scenery in this game-filled country is little changed. North Bay, headquarters of the Algoma District of the Canadian Pacific, and the provincially owned Ontario Northland Railway — connection for Hudson's Bay, is a city of 19,900. Market for 120,000 acres of general farming land, this busy trading centre was a stopping place for Samuel de Champlain, the explorer, in 1615. Near Corbeil, noted for the birth of the Dionne Quintuplets, an arm of Lake Nipissing is called South Bay — hence the city's name. In addition to its economic importance this area is notable for hunting and fishing. Lake Nosbonsing, right, at mileage 98.5 is fished for bass, maskinonge and pickerel: Bonfield Falls is seen, left, at mileage 98. Lake Talon, part of the early canoe route, can be glimpsed at mileage 94, between Bonfield and Rutherglen. Trout are caught in the Amable du Fond river, mileage 83. Beaver dams and lodges in the lakes at mileages 79 and 77 and Earl's Lake, 74.5, attest to the availability of food variety for river travellers in the old days. The Canadian Pacific line, following the route of the explorers, enters the Ottawa Valley at Mattawa, a trading post since 1784. TN€ HISTORIC «* OTTAWA VALLEY Wild country betokens good hunting and fishing. Lumbering is in evidence along the line, and, evidence of hydroelectric development of the upper Ottawa, track diversion was carried out to permit damming of the river to generate 480,000 H.P. at Des Joachims. To the left, at mileage 50.5, and between mileages 32 and 26.5, the former track is visible at low water. Pembroke, 13,000, the county town of Renfrew, turns out lumber products, furniture and electrical appliances. To the left, at mileage 91, part of 23-mile Allumette Island can be seen. This probably was a stopover point for Pere Marquette and trader Louis Joliet, co-explorers of the Mississippi, Ohio, Arkansas, Illinois and Chicago Rivers. Watch, in season, for migrating Canada Geese in the area between the Muskrat, mileage 84.4 and West Bonnechere (74) rivers, and for the Ottawa River on the left at Braeside. The Madawaska is bridged at mileage 40, and The Mississippi at mileages 32.4 and 17.6. Ontario's Mississippi has no connection with a larger river of the same name! In the next few miles Renfrew, population 7,609; Arnprior, 4,500; Almonte, 2,617 and Carleton Place, a railway and manufacturing town of 4,700 are passed. Pleasant farm-lands and prosperous country trading centres lead to Ottawa, capital of Canada. Ottawa, in Ontario, and Hull, Quebec, have an area population of 249,345. The Rideau Canal locks, Parliament Buildings, Chaudiere Falls and many great industries are in full view as your train makes two crossings of the big river. Leaving Ottawa, the line crosses — in the city limits — the Rideau River, named by Samuel de Champlain in 1613 when, with Brule and de Vigneau, the first white men penetrated westward. A natural highway for canoe travel, the mighty river was the main trade artery for Huron, Algonquin and Iroquois Indians and it was by this route that the early explorers, Recollet and Jesuit missionaries and traders made their way" to the west with the help of Indian guides. Vast forests bordering the river and its tributaries felt the lumberman's axe as Canada's population increased, rivermen rafted the timber to mill sites and the valley's economic phase began in the 19th century. With the advent of electricity its waters were harnessed and diversified manufacturing lends an urban balance to the prosperous farming that has followed the clearance of the forest areas. The South Nation river is crossed near mileage 50 and between mileage boards 22 and 21, the boundary between Ontario and Quebec. At Rigaud, site of religious institutions, the Rigaud River enters the Ottawa. To the left the Ottawa, now widened into the Lake of the Two Mountains, accompanies the main line to Vaudreuil-Dorion, where it empties into the St. Lawrence. From Ste. Anne de Bellevue to Montreal you pass new residential suburbs, Montreal's international airport, at Dorval, and, immediately south, the industrial city of Laehine, home of Lasalle — explorer of the Ohio River and Lake Michigan in search of China. Then — Montreal, seaport 1,000 miles from an ocean and bilingual metropolis of Canada. Photography Through The Tinted Glass Scenic Dome The green tint acts as a filter. Increase exposure one stop for black and white. Use colour compensating filter CC 30 R for colour films. Meter readings are safest.