=^/7 CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY COMPANY'S (C EM ATLANTIC II OF THE .m^- ,^05" jvh . •»**»««*>.■ Empress of Britain Empress of Ireland LENGTH 570 FEET—14,500 TONS Hold the ATLANTIC RECORDS between Canadian Forts and Liverpool Sailing lyists, Rate Sheets and all information from any Railway or Steamship Agent. W. G. ANNABLE, general passenger agent, MONTREAL. 17 • 1 Zbe Hncfcnt City of Quebec A A 1 K \S*\ Hi • !• •1 • 11 D-9 Twenty-first Edition ssuefc b$ tbe Canadian pacific 1Railwa$ Compar Copyrighted, 1894, by the Chateau Frontenac Co. ve 7| •j 3 tn 3 fa m THE ANCIENT CITY OF 'WHERE FAMOUS HEROES FELL." m ISTORY is poetry, could we tell it right, says Carlyle. Doubly true is this of the history of Quebec. Capital city of a province nearly three times as large as the British Isles is its pressnt poid distinction, but it is not because of this that Quebec is famous. It is because here civilisation first began to conquer savagery in this new northern land; because here are the battle grounds on which the best blood of Old England and Old France met in deadly conflict and decided the fate of half a continent; because here every scene is hallowed by three centuries of the most romantic and most tragic history that the < New World knows. Quebec has other claims to fame as well. Clustered on and around rocky and precipitous %| heights that resemble Gibraltar in their frowning impregnability, this wonderful old city commands a landscape that takes rank among the great show places of the world. The " Upper Town " looks away out over the mighty St. Lawrence to where beetling cliffs as high as its own are dotted with the ■Wm> Champlain Monument, Quebec 4 QUEBEC houses of the town of Levis and crowned by the immense forts erected by the British Government. Far in the distance beyond are outlying spurs of the ancient Appalachian Mountains that extend 1300 miles to south and east. Looking in the other direction, the bold outlines of Cape Tourmente, forty miles away on the north shore, can be seen, while back from the north shore line the eye is carried to where the crests of the Laurent ians, the oldest mountain range in the world, fade away in billow upon billow Part of the Old City Walls, Quebec of wonderful blues and purples that melt imperceptibly into the azure of the sky. Beyond that horizon lies a vast unpeopled wilderness that stretches sheer to the Polar regions. From infinite distance the eye comes back to the scene immediately beneath. There flows one of the great rivers of the world bearing the traffic of an Empire in a constant procession of water craft that vary from the frail canoe which is the Indian's masterpiece to sturdy schooners like those of the Newfoundland and Nova Scotia fishing fleets, and from these QUEBEC 5 again to stately Atlantic liners of the Canadian Pacific Railway Company that equal in luxurious accommodation any vessels afloat. Down in the great reaches of the river below Quebec and wthin sight of the city is the Island of Orleans, and opposite this on the mainland the shrine of Ste. Anne de Beaupre, ranking with Lourdes in traditions of sanctity and miracles of healing, and visited annually by over half a million pilgrims and tourists. The story of imperishable deeds, the glory of immortal actions, the beauty of noble scenery, and the nearby mystery of that Mecca of the '■:" '■•■ "■■■■ .mm;■,-.■■ ■-.;.- ■ v;^: ■:■■ m^WfiM Wmm The Chateau Frontenac from Lower Town, Quebec pilgrims—all these give unique interest and attraction to this old city. But quite apart from such considerations, Quebec appeals to the visitor as no other city on the continent can do. Rambling and mediaeval, its streets full of quaint surprises that are the delight of the antiquarian and the artist, the city itself has an interest all its own. Its tortuous thoroughfares, its huge fortifications, its old-world buildings—aye, and its inhabitants, so many of whom speak the quaintest of French dialects—all these breathe out the charm of dead centuries saturated with Indian traditions, the traditions of Brittany and Normandy, and of the France and England of days gone by. *\ QUEBEC Little Champlain Street Yet ask the typical citizen of Quebec what his city is noted for, and nine times out of ten, his answer will be, " For its beautiful women." This view the visitor can confirm for himself any day by taking a walk along the fashionable promenade that crowns the city heights, for it is a fact that long residence or permanent settlement here in the valorous days of old of many nobly-born families of Great Britain and France has resulted in later generations of surprisingly comely people. Quebec in Literature Quebec figures largely in literature. Historians, poets, novelists— all have yielded to its spell. Charles Dickens, when he made his memorable visit to America, sojourned for a time in the city, and afterwards, when recording his journey, he wrote of Quebec : '' The impression made upon the visitor by this Gibraltar of America, its giddy heights, its citadel suspended, as it were, in air; its picturesque steep streets and frowning gateways; and the splendid views which burst upon the eye at every turn is at once unique and lasting, and make it a place not to be forgotten." Henry Ward Beecher, in his description of it, declared Quebec to be the quaintest of all cities on the continent. "It is a populated cliff," was his graphic way of putting it, "a small bit of mediaeval Europe perched upon a rock, and dried for keeping —a curiosity that has not its equal in its kind on this side of the ocean. QUEBEC Strolling in Lower Town one might fancy himself in Amiens or Dieppe, and along the Grand Allee, running right across the Plains of Abraham, you might be in Brussels or Paris, only that Clifton Terrace seems to recall Kensington." Then he drew this pretty word picture of the city: " Dear delightful old Quebec, with her gray walls and shining tin roofs; her precipitous headlong streets and sleepy squares and esplanades; her narrow alleys and peaceful convents; her harmless antique cannon Kent Gate and Part of the City Walls, Quebec on the parapets and her sweet toned bells in the spires; her towering chateau on the heights and her long, low, queer smelling warehouses in the lower town; her spick and span caleches and her dingy trolley cars; her sprinkling of soldiers and sailors with Scotch accent and Irish brogue and cockney twang on a background of petite bourgeoise speaking the quaintest of French dialects; her memories of an adventurous glittering past and her placid contentment with the tranquil grayness of the present; her glorious daylight outlook over the vale of the St. Charles, the level QUEBEC shore of Montmorenci, the green Isle d'Orleans dividing the shining reaches of the broad St. Lawrence, and the blue Laurentian mountains rolling far to the eastward, and at night the dark bulk of the citadel outlined against the starry blue, and far below the huddled house tops, the silent wharves, the lights of the great warships swinging with the tide, the intermittent ferryboats plying to and fro, the twinkling lamps of Levis rising along the dim southern shore and reflected on the lapsing, curling, seaward sliding waves of the great river! What city of the new world keeps so much of the charm of the old?" Quebec's History Revivified in Tercentenary Pageants There is no need to enlarge on the history of Quebec. Parkman, Kingsford, Stewart, Le Moine, Bourinot, Chambers, and Harper have already placed its story on record for all to read. And besides, was not its history revivified in the summer of 1908, and the whole world made acquainted with it by means of those wonderful pageants that Mr. Frank Lascelles .staged upon the Plains Of Abraham during the Tercentenary Celebrations. The Prince of Wales's presence at these celebrations, as the representative of the King, attested the important position which Quebec occupies in the history of >the Empire; so, too, did the presence of the. accredited representatives of the nations of Europe and the self-governing British dependencies, and the presence in the river fronting Quebec of battleships representing the navies of England, France and the United States. These celebrations The Gateway into the Courtyard—Chateau Frontenac carried the minds of many QUEBEC peoples in many lands back to the time, three hundred and seventy odd years ago, when Jacques Cartier and his band of adventurers came up the river in their tiny sailing ship, and, landing a t Quebec, claimed the Entrance to the Chateau Frontenac whole of the country, whatever it might prove to be, for the King of France. Cartier made no permanent settlement here, but in 1549, the Sieur de Roberval spent one winter with a small colony he had brought out, and then retired. In 1608 Champlain arrived, established the French possession of the country at Quebec, and commenced to provide material for history. It was this founding of the city by Champlain, with its greater significance as being the founding of civilisation in Canada, that was the reason for the Tercentenary celebrations, and of course one of the great scenes in the pageants depicted the coming of Champlain. Champlain's reign as practical king of the St. Lawrence was filled with the romance of discovery, of Indian warfare, and of the religious enterprises of brave monks and nuns. Of war, Quebec has probably seen more than any other place on the continent. Every part of the city recalls some portion of the long succession of thrilling historical events in which so many nations were so deeply interested. The French, the English, the Americans, and the aboriginal Indians have all played their parts in the stirring dramas enacted around the fortress-crowned rock. And the final struggles be- QUEBEC tween the armies of Montcalm and Wolfe, which closed on the Plains ot Abraham at Quebec, saw the end of the reign of France in the northern half of the North American continent, and the beginning of the regime which was destined to result in the self-governing liberty which Canada now enjoys. A Chateau Hostelry on a Matchless Site The pleasures of a visit to Quebec are greatly enhanced by the unique character of the hotel accommodation. All along the rocky heights 200 feet above the river there runs the splendid Government-built promenade known as the Dufferin Terrace, and fronting directly upon this terrace is the Chateau Frontenac, a huge and beautiful chateau hostelry that combines every modern luxury and convenience with all the quaint architectural surprises of mediaeval times. Right upon the very spot where all the noble scenery commanded by the city can best be viewed— there stands this hotel. A veritable old-time chateau it is, with its curves and cupolas, turrets and towers, gateways, and courtyard. So cleverly was it designed by its architect, Mr. Bruce Price, that all the offices and service rooms, even the main entrance hall, with its pillared gateway, look out upon the inner curve, leaving every bit of the outer circle that faces the magnificent stretch of river and fortified heights and far off mountains, to be devoted to guest rooms. A Corner in the Courtyard Chateau Frontenac Delightfully unex- QUEBEC II pected in its ways, this grand hotel provides a multiplicity of diversified accommodation. It has numerous suites, some of them containing as many as eight rooms. All of the suites are different,but here is a typical description of one: " Two dainty bed-rooms and two equally dainty bathrooms, lead from either end of a bow-shaped boudoir, whose curve is one unbroken line of beautiful windows, creamy panellings, tinted walls and ceiling, deep window seats—all these the room possesses, but one sees them not; they ;i*;*i! .^i^'vu l.'L, , ''■£ufJ2-WP'ym::^;-\S:E • »•■$ilb^^v ;: ■ i-m The Famed Dufferin Terrace and Chateau Frontenac are as nothing compared to the great curve of radiance that shines and sparkles from this splendid bow of light. The dominance of right- angled rooms we have at last got away from. Here we have the rest- fulness of change in rooms that are bow-shaped, crescent-shaped, circular; rooms that are acute-angled, obtuse-angled, triangular, sexangular, everything except square and rigid in their lines." It is one of the features of the Chateau Frontenac that everything is of the best. All the larger rooms are carried out in separate schemes of QUEBEC decoration, making the place at once homelike and more like a private mansion than a fashionable hotel. As an instance, the dining room walls are hung with tapestries consisting of a replica of the five panels composing the " Foundation of Rome " series in the Royal Palace at Madrid. The furniture throughout the Chateau is chiefly oak. The bedroom furnishings are much alike—handsome brass bedsteads, oak furniture and cosy upholstering in each room. And then the stairways —they are everywhere, and equally pretty and unique in effect. Every corner that one peeps into along these wide, curving corridors holds an inviting little stairway—bright and soft, with rich carpeting and oak bannisters—t hat tempts one to ascend or descend just to find where it leads. Ascending the main stairway, which leads by easy turns from the vestibule, there is to be seen one of the most artistic effects in the building, for, standing in the broad corridor, beautiful with i t s white panellings, oak floor, and Axminster, t>ne looks between large creamy, daintily-moulded pillars into the long drawing-room, and beyond it into the ladies' pavilion. The pretty sight brings a suggestion of the Renaissance, and the white and gold days of Louis Quinze. One of the unexpected things about the Chateau Frontenac is that the fourth, fifth and sixth stories are more desirable than the lower ones,for the higher one ascends, the wider the panorama of. river, mountain, city and sky that unfolds to one's view. The surroundings of the Chateau Frontenac combined with the superlative qualities of the building itself render it the ideal hotel. There is nothing like it on the continent of America, nor in any hotel is there a better quality of service, or greater A Familiar Scene in Quebec QUEBEC *3 attention to every convenience that has to do with twentieth-century requirements. It is the most superbly situated hotel in the world, a place that is always remembered with pleasure by those who make it their headquarters for a stay in this romantic city. The Great Promenade on the Cliff Top Jutting out along the brink of Cape Diamond, 200 feet above the s 1 !'Jr| :* ft^BKij'vIs ■H^.T1^fJ 4 pp.;: i- :-,' . *#§ . -.. MB mP I /Jmp Jm >>- • f «v ■•'* mmm:m:;mm ; :: WsmS^m ?; ■ '^■m^X^ St. Louis Gate and South African Monument, Quebec roofs of the quaint " Lower Town " of the old city, is the Dufferin Terrace —a Government-built promenade which takes rank with the Hove Lawns and Esplanade at Brighton, England, as the resort of beauty and fashion, and far surpasses almost any promenade in the world in the tremendous panorama that it commands. At the eastern end of this promenade rises the beautiful pile of the Chateau Frontenac, while the western end is under the shadow of the grim fortress known as the Citadel, from which floats the Union Jack, symbol of Empire of which none are more proud than the people of Quebec. 14 QUEBEC The promenade is built so that its decorative effect may be in keeping with the surroundings. It is sixty feet wide and over a quarter of a mile in length and is paved with wood throughout. Back of it are lawns, with cannon pointing riverwards and commanding this gateway of the Dominion. On it are numerous seats—some in the open, and some under the shelter of the five pretty kiosks distributed along the length of the promenade. It affords a delightful walk and an equally delightful resting-place, % /^^IOjKl] --,' "mi$ij£ pm p. ■■#:: ■ rm-. >V-. ..>r'Pl::p -- (_ •-- - 1 ^^tfd Post Office and Bishop Laval's Monument, and the scene that it commands is one of never-failing interest, whether it be the " Lower Town " and wharves, the busy river here narrowed between precipitous cliffs till it is only a mile wide, the islands in the far-spreading lower reaches, the pretty communities on the other shore, or the play of light and shade upon the purple crests of the far Laurentians. On summer evenings the military musicians from the Citadel garrison come down to the bandstand here to play for the enjoyment of all who QUEBEC 15 seek recreation upon the promenade. Then the scene is gay with life and laughter, and romantic with the mysterious beauty of the night. Down on the dim river the lights of the shipping are reflected in the rippling water—the lights of vessels heaving at their moorings, of ferry boats making half-crescent journeys back and forth from shore to shore, of ocean liners passing ghost-like on their journey to Montreal or to the open sea. All up the heights of the far shore the lights of Levis gleam like pin-pricks in the darkness. Looking down and out upon such far-flung distances as this promenade on the cliff-edge commands, the night, unwontedly huge and grand, impresses the imagination with a new awe and mystery. On the one hand is nature, silent, primeval and all-enveloping; on the other is life and music, soft light and an ever-changing picture of beauty and fashion. They make a combination that is unforgettable. There are pretty walks leading away from the Terrace. At the further end a succession of small stairways lead to another promenade along the cliff and around the base of the walls of the Citadel to connect the Terrace with the Cove Fields, the extended promenade having a total distance of nearly 4,000 ft. On these fields, where the old French earthworks still remain, are ideal natural golf links. Every foot of land here is historic ground; the very air breathes of deeds of valour and military prowess. Looking down from the Terrace front, the narrow street bearing the name Champlain, the founder of Quebec, is seen, and its long length followed to the foot of the citadel cliff, just beyond which is the narrow pass where, in 1775, the American General, Richard Montgomery, Wolfe's Monument fell mortally wounded. QUEBEC Montgomery was in command of an expedition for the invasion of Canada, and had already become master of a great portion of the country by capturing Fort Chambly and Montreal,' *He immediately proceeded against Quebec, and was heroically leading his men up the steep heights in a daring attack upon the Upper Town when he and his aides were mowed down at the first and only firing of the British artillery, the attacking force thereupon retreating in disorder. Almost directly under the northern end of the Terrace, where the cliff stands back farther from the river and the streets are huddled closer together, is the historic Church of Notre Dame des Victoires, where the French celebrated the repulse of Sir William Phipps' attack on the city, in 1690, and the destruction of Sir Hoveden Walker's armada in the Gulf of the St. Lawrence in 1711. A little to the south is the Champlain market hall. Very near its site the first building in Quebec, which included a fort, a residence and stores, was erected in 1608 by the adventurous and chivalrous Champlain, whose memory is perpetuated in a magnificent statue on the Terrace. Here was the first clearing made; the next was that upon a portion of which the Chateau Frontenac now stands, On this latter site Champlain erected the Chateau St. Louis; which played so prominent a part in Canadian history; at a later era being the castle from which the French Governors exercised undisputed sovereignty from the mouth of the Mississippi to the Great Lakes, and along the shores of the St. Lawrence and its Gulf. In the rear of the Chateau St. Louis was the area of the fort, now covered by the Place d'Armes and a part of the hotel. This fort was frequently attacked by the intrepid and ferocious Iroquois, who more than once overthrew the outposts, and threatened the fort itself. Just beyond are the high-peaked commissariat buildings of the Imperial Government, and the Kent House where resided King Edward's grandfather when commandant of the Imperial forces in Canada. Close by also were the headquarters of Montcalm, and the place where the gallant soldier died. Across the Place d'Armes is the English Cathedral, constructed soon after the British occupation, by the Royal Engineers. The Citadel Crowning the highest point of Cape Diamond, 303 feet above the river, is the Citadel, whose fortifications stand out against the sky from whichever point the city be regarded, and remind the visitor that Quebec is still QUEBEC 17 a fortress. The Citadel is now garrisoned by Canadian troops, and like the great forts at Levis, on the opposite side of the river, have immense batteries'of heavy guns commanding the river. There are numerous buildings, while the bastions, entrenchments, and parade grounds cover an area of forty acres. Besides being in itself intensely interesting, the Citadel commands a glorious view. It is about ten minutes' walk from the Chateau Frontenac. The Governor's Garden A little to the rear of the Dufferin Terrace, and between the Chateau Custom House, Quebec Frontenac and the Citadel, is a public park known as the Governor's Garden, notable as having in it a stone column to Wolfe and Montcalm, erected in 1827 and 1828, in joint honour of the illustrious generals, to whom, in the words of the inscription, " Valour gave a common death, history a common fame, and posterity a common monument." The Plains of Abraham Within a short and pleasant walk, or drive, from the Chateau Frontenac are the Plains of Abraham, where Wolfe fell and where Mont- l8 QUEBEC calm, his illustrious rival, was mortally wounded. Through the initiative of Earl Grey, and as one of the crowning achievements of his term of office as Governor-General of Canada, these plains were purchased by public subscription and presented to the Nation during the Tercentenary celebrations, so that the ground so sacred in the history of the Empire is now a national park, forever preserved from desecration. Everybody knows the story of how, on September 13, 1759, the intrepid Englishman Wolfe led his troops up the heights that had previously been thought too precipitous to climb, and on to the plains, there to meet and defeat the French army and decide the fate of Canada. The actual clash between the two armies only occupied a dozen minutes—so short is the time that can decide a nation's fate. A tall marble shaft now stands to mark the spot where Wolfe fell, mortally wounded. It bears the inscription: " Here died Wolfe victorious." His rival, Montcalm, also mortally wounded, retreated within the walls to die. The Plains of Abraham are named after Abraham Martin, who received a grant of land there in 1635. Close to the battlefield is Spencerwood, the official residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province of Quebec, and in olden days the home of the Governors-General of Canada. A short distance off, on the escarpment overhanging the St. Lawrence, is the path by which the British troops scaled the cliffs on the night before the battle, and at the foot of the rocks is Wolfe's Cove. Two miles beyond is Sillery, a place of historical interest, where Maisonneuve spent his first winter in Canada, and the scene in 1665, of the horrible massacre of Christian Hurons and their missionaries, by savage Iroquois. The Ursuline Convent The Ursuline Convent is directly connected with the battle on the Plains of Abraham, by reason of its chapel containing the remains of Montcalm, whose body is buried in the Convent, while his skull is kept in the chaplain's parlor, to which visitors are freely admitted. This, the oldest convent in Quebec, was founded in 1639. It covers an area of seven acres. Besides the remains of Montcalm, the chapel contains what are claimed to be the following relics:—The body of St. Clement from the Catacombs of Rome, brought to the Ursulines in 1687; the skull of one of the companions of St. Ursula, 1675; the skull of St. Justus, 1662; a piece of the Holy Cross, 1657; a portion of the Crown of Thorns, brought from Paris in 1830., The Chapel is'open to visitors, who may there see some QUEBEC 19 rare works of art, including paintings by Vandyke, Restout, and Cham- pagny, the property of the Sisters of the Convent. The Basilica—Mother Church of Roman Catholicism in North America Facing the historic old market square, which dates back to 1686, where in olden times stood the public pillory, is the Basilica, the mother church of Roman Catholicism in North America. Its erection was commenced in 1647, and finished in 1657. The design of the chancel is in faithful imitation of that of St. Peter's at Rome. On its walls hangs a The Kent House, at Montmorency Falls rich collection of paintings, many of them priceless works of art, which were rescued from destruction during the Reign of Terror in France, when the mob pillaged churches and monasteries. Amongst other paintings is Vandyke's Christ on the Cross, Plamondon's Ste. Anne, and the Tomb of the Saviour, Fleuret's Christ submitting to the soldiers, The Holy Family by Jacques Blanchard, The Annunciation by Jean Restout, etc. Adjoining the Basilica is the Cardinal's Palace. In its grand salon de reception are the Cardinal's throne, and rare gifts from the Pope. 20 QUEBEC The Parliament Buildings Situated on the Grande Allee, the beautiful driveway of which Quebec is justly proud, are the parliament buildings of the province of Quebec, the erection of which has cost close upon $2,000,000. These handsome buildings form a square, each side being 300 feet in length and four stories high. At the entrance is a bronze Indian group which ranks among the masterpieces of the famous Canadian sculptor Hebert. Among the more interesting contents of the buildings, which are open to all, are the original archives of New France before the conquest by Great Britain in 1760. Seminary and Laval University Conspicuous among the great public buildings of the city is the Seminary of Quebec, founded in 1663 by Laval, the first appointed prelate of Canada. The buildings are valued at $1,000,000. The institution includes the Grand and Petit Seminaries, the latter being especially interesting to Americans from the fact that the officers under Montgomery and Arnold who were captured during the siege of 1775 were incarcerated in it. The Grand Seminary, known as Laval University, is the chief French-Canadian university, and the oldest in Canada. Laval has an excellent museum and library, and many art treasures in its keeping. In its gallery of paintings—a miniature Vatican collection—are two Salvator Rosas, three Teniers, a Rommeneli, a Joseph Vernet, a Puget, two Vandykes, a Perocc Poussin, and many other masterpieces, The Famous Golden Dog In the northern facade of the post-office is the famous " Chi en D'Or," a gilt figure of a dog gnawing a bone, about which exists a legend, which Kirby has woven into a charming romance. Under the French regime there stood on the site now occupied by the post-office, the house and shop of Philibert, a wealthy merchant, who waged commercial war on the corrupt company of New France, nicknamed by the farmers "La Fripone." The real head of this company was Intendant Bigot, whose threats against Philibert resulted in the latter placing over his door a sculptured tablet of a golden dog with the following inscription: Je suis un chien qui ronge l'os, En le rongeant je prends mon repos, Un temps viendra qui n'est pas venu, Que je mordray qui m'aura mordu. QUEBEC Put.into other words, the dog is made to give voice to the sinister announcement that although he is resting quietly and gnawing a bone the time is coming when he will bite those who would have bitten him. But a tragedy prevented Philibert putting the veiled threat into execution. He was assassinated, and the prevailing impression was that it was at the instigation of Bigot. Church of Notre Dame des Victoires This historic little edifice is one of the interesting sights of the Lower Town. It was partially destroyed by the fire of the Levis batteries during Wolfe's siege of Quebec in 1759, and subsequently rebuilt on its old walls. The fete of Notre Dame de la Victoire, which takes place on October 7th every year, was established in commemoration of the defeat of the British invaders under General Phipps, in 1690, and the shipwreck of the second British invading fleet under Sir Hoveden Walker, fourteen years later. These occurrences the French inhabitants regarded as miraculous interpositions of Providence in their favor, and thus the edifice was given the name it bears. The English Cathedral The English Cathedral, erected in the first years of the 19th century by the British Government, is interesting, not for its architectural beauty, but for its historic association and for the splendor of its mural monuments, chancel windows, and elaborate solid silver communion service. The latter cost $10,000 and was a present from King George III. Falls of Montmorency, near Quebec QUEBEC The Hotel Dieu The Hotel Dieu, a convent and a hospital, founded in 1639 by Duchess D'Aiguillon, a niece of Cardinal Richelieu, is the most ancient institution of its kind in America. In it are some famous old pictures, amongst which are: The Nativity, by Stella, the Virgin and Child (Noel Coypol), Vision of Ste. Theresa (Guel Monaght), the Descent from the Cross (copy by Plamondon), etc. In the chapel of the convent is the skull of Jean de Bre- bceuf, the great Jesuit missionary. The establishment is open to visitors, on application to the Lady Superior. The Golf Links The Quebec Golf Club Links, in connection with the Chateau Frontenac, are a source of great enjoyment to tourist golfers, and are additionally interesting because they form part of the original battlefield on the Plains of Abraham. From the golfing point of view they are ideal, because the varied nature of the topography presents almost every species of hazard at one point or other of the course. Scenery, all admit, has few charms for the golfer, but not even a golfer traversing this historic ground can fail to be impressed by the remarkable view. The ruins of Montcalm's old fortifications form some of the hazards, the old masonry being still visible in various places. The second green is inside one of the forts of 200 years ago. Guests of the Chateau Frontenac have only to apply at the office for permission to play over these links on payment of a small fee. Literary Treasures The libraries of Quebec are rich in literary treasures, and contain many rare old books which are most interesting to the student of antiquarian lore. The legislative Library in the Parliament Buildings, and that of Laval University, are the two most pretentious in the city. In the latter are over 10,000 valuable volumes. The Literary and Historical Society has also an invaluable collection in the Morrin College, and the French Society, l'lnstitut Canadien, has a fine Library in the city hall. These are open to the public. Historic Ruins Over in the valley of the St. Charles, the gaunt ruins of the famed Chateau Bigot still remain. The lodge in which perished by poison, at the QUEBEC 23 instigation of her fair rival, young Caroline de St. Castin, the beautiful mistress of the profligate Intendant, still stands in the midst of the forest labyrinth. The girl was the daughter of a gentleman of Acadia, and had been induced by Bigot's fair promises to fly from herhome only to be held a prisoner in the Chateau until her tragic death. Another of Bigot's palaces stood within a stone's throw of the site of the Canadian Pacific Railway station. The Heights of Levis From Levis, a magnificent view of Quebec and its surroundings can be obtained. The military forts, on the heights above, from which, during the summer of 1759, the cannon of the English bombarded Quebec with shot and shell, until the whole of the Lower Town was a confused mass of ruins, are worth visiting, and so is the Engineer's Camp at St. Joseph de Levis—magnificently wooded meadows, once the camping ground of the Royal Engineers. An electric railway meets all boats at the ferry, and climbs to the top of the cliff. The view from this point is one of the finest imaginable, for it is possible to see both up and down the river from one place. Across the river are seen the villages of Beauport and Montmorency, the beautiful church of the former lifting its twin spires against the purple mountains; to the right the heavily wooded end of the island of Orleans; while to the left, the Chateau Frontenac and the massive stone fortress are outlined against the sky. Another interesting excursion to be made at Levis is round the three modern forts, built on the heights behind the town. The most easterly, constructed by the Royal Engineers, commands the approaches up the river, while the others, built by the Dominion Government, have an outlook extending forty miles to the south over a natural glacis. The Montmorency Falls About seven miles below Quebec are the falls where the Montmorency River plunges roaring down a precipice of 274 feet to lose itself in the St. Lawrence. The falls are over 100 feet higher than those of Niagara. The drive to the falls—a favorite trip with all ^visitors—is through an almost continuous succession of French Canadian farms and cottages. On the road is Beauport, a place bombarded by Wolfe. The trip can also be made by the Quebec Electric Railway. Af the" head of the Falls is Kent House, the residence while in Quebec of the Duke of Kent, grandfather of King Edward VII. There are also to 24 QUEBEC be seen the Zoological Gardens, owned by Holt, Renfrew & Co., Quebec, and containing a fine collection of Canadian live animals,including beavers, which are allowed the run of an enclosed valley with a pretty brook passing through it. In a deep canon about a mile above Montmorency Falls there is a succession of rocky ledges forming natural steps, over which the river madly dashes. It is a typical bit of the wildest scenery of the mountainous portions of the province. The Shrine of Ste. Anne de Beaupre The world-famous shrine of Ste. Anne de Beaupre, which is credited with having been the scene of many miracles, and which for over 250 years has been a place of pilgrimage, is 21 miles from Quebec. It can be reached by the Quebec Electric Railway, which closely follows the bank of the St. Lawrence, or, in the summer, by steamer. The shrine is said to have been founded in the early years of the 16th century by a crew of Breton sailors, whose vessel had been buffeted about in a terrific tempest on the St. Lawrence. During the storm they solemnly vowed to build a Church of Ste. Anne de Beaupre QUEBEC 25 shrine in honor of the patron saint of their dear Brittany, St. Anne d'Auray, the mother of the Virgin Mary, should she guide them safely through the dangers encompassing them. They landed safely, and built a small wooden chapel in fulfilment of their vows. The primitive little church was replaced by a larger structure in 1660. This was subsequently enlarged, and after about a century's existence, it was almost entirely rebuilt in 1787 and 1878, and converted into a chapel—still occupying its original site near the " sacred spring," whose waters have, it is claimed, miraculous properties. Across the street, in contrast to this unpretentious building, is the magnificent edifice which although opened for public worship in 1876, and raised to the dignity of a Basilica by Pope Pius IX. ten years later, was not entirely completed until 1889. It is a fine specimen of Corinthian architecture, and is of immense proportions. A colossal statue of Ste. Anne, of great beauty, surmounts the facade between twin towers rising to a great height. The interior of the Basilica is on a grand and imposing scale, and there are magnificent paintings and statuary representing different scenes in the life of Christ. The sacred relics of Ste. Anne contained in the church number five. They include bones of fingers and hand, but the one which is looked on as the most precious is a part of the arm of Anne, a piece of bone measuring about four inches in length, sent by Leo XIII. The relic is enclosed in a costly reliquary, the mere touching of which is supposed Monument erected to the British and French 1 in ~ Soldiers who fell at Quebec to work marvellous effects. 26 QUEBEC The Redemptorist Fathers who are in charge of the Basilica declare that miracles are daily being performed there, paralytics being made to walk, the blind to recover their sight, and the infirm being restored to health. There are pyramids composed of hundreds of crutches, canes, trusses, and splints left by people as testimony of the efficacy of the saint's intervention on their behalf. Votive offerings left by grateful people are numerous, and include a great variety of jewellery, among which are two yards of rings strung close together on rods. Close by the Basilica is a building called the " Sancta Scala," built in imitation of the steps of Pilate's Palace at Jerusalem, " up which our Saviour mounted during his sacred passion." Each step contains relics of the Holy Land. Zealous suppliants may often be seen there climbing the steps on their knees, and kissing each step before mounting it. This shrine is visited annually by over half a million pilgrims and tourists from all parts of the continent and indeed from all quarters of the globe. Accommodation on a large scale is provided for visitors. Six miles away are the beautiful falls of Ste. Anne, and beyond them again are the Seven Falls, both well worth seeing. The Indian Village of Lorette Another pleasant drive is to the Indian Village of Lorette, on the St. Charles River, about nine miles from Quebec. There are some beautiful waterfalls in the neighborhood,but the chief interest centres in the Indians. They form the remnant of the once powerful Hurons, who, after the treacherous massacre of their tribe by the Iroquois, sought refuge near Quebec, and allied themselves with the French in resisting the incursions of the common enemy. The village was first settled in 1697. The Lorette Chapel, nearly 200 years old, is of the same model and dimensions as that of the Santa Casa, from which the image of the Virgin, a copy of that in the famous sanctuary, was sent to the Indians. In every direction around Quebec the country affords charming drives, and the quaint French-Canadian villages, with their hospitable people, are a never-ending source of delight to visitors. Down the Gulf Steamer trips down the River and Gulf of St. Lawrence afford visitors the opportunity of making the acquaintance of the remarkable scenic QUEBEC 27 beauty of this great waterway. Murray Bay, Riviere du Loup, Cacouna and Tadousac, at the mouth of the Saguenay, are fashionable watering resorts, with good hotel accommodation and excellent bathing facilities The trip can be extended down the Gulf to Prince Edward Island and to St.'John's, Newfoundland, Halifax, N.S., and to New York, Boston and other American ports. Quebec's Glorious Winter Charming as is Quebec in summer, many of those who know it well love it best in winter. The abounding energy and joyous exhilaration that comes of living in the dry, clear air and floodmg sunshine of this northern clime in winter are a continual surprise and delight to visitors. Clad in raiment befitting the climate, with accompaniments of the beautiful furs that are here so fashionable, discomfort is absolutely unknown, and so also are ennui and enervation. Strangers who desire to participate in the winter sports which are the glory of Quebec, are warmly welcomed by the different winter clubs, and quickly initiated into the various forms of local sport. There are both indoor and outdoor skating rinks, to which guest tickets of admission may be had by non-residents for the asking and the fancy skating daily witnessed here is alone well worth a long journey to see. Then there are hockey, polo, curling, tobogganing, sleighing, snow- shoe tramps, and ski-ing, all of which are kept going fast and furious throughout the winter, adding much to the gaiety and picturesqueness of the life of an enthusiastic people. People of all ages indulge in most of these sports, for "grown-ups" become as sportive as youths in this exhilarating climate. The sleighing alone always captivates the visitors. In the streets hundreds of carioles, queer little sleds peculiar to this quaint old place, dash along, their jingling bells filling the air with silvery music. There is a romantic touch of local color about the outings of the various snowshoe clubs. The long night tramps to their country rendezvous are often headed by a bugle band, and the snow-shoers present a highly picturesque appearance, tramping in Indian file over the snow, clad in their multicolored blanket suits, and bearing torches. The benefits of the winter climate at Quebec for those who are run down are well expressed by Dr. Grondin, Professor of the University of 28 Laval, and one of the leading physicians of the province, in a letter he wrote to an inquirer from the United States. " I do not hesitate to declare," he says, " that Quebec in particular, owing to its altitude, has a pure and remarkable atmosphere, a dry and regular cold, which agrees admirably with those predisposed to consumption. Foreign doctors at times send, and rightly so, some of their patients suffering from pulmonary complaints to a cold climate, where the temperature varies but little, and I have asked myself, why do not the American doctors send their patients here where the good climate, and the exceptional beauty of the place, would readily bring about good and beneficial results." HOW TO REACH QUEBEC Quebec is easily reached from all directions. From Montreal, which may be regarded as the starting point for the lower St. Lawrence, there is a choice of routes by rail and river. By the Canadian Pacific Railway (from Place Viger passenger station) it is about four and a half hours' run along the bank of the St.Lawrence river, through the old French settlements that in many places are almost as primitive as in the days of Champlain and Frontenac. The railway runs directly under the walls of the old fortifications, and yet into the city. The Grand Trunk and the Intercolonial Railways, on the other side of the St. Lawrence, run to Levis, directly opposite Quebec, the river being crossed by steam ferry. During A Quebec Caleche QUEBEC 29 the season of navigation, the steamers of the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Co. ply between Montreal and Quebec. Tourists from the New England States, who do not wish to visit Montreal, can reach the ancient Capital by way of Sherbrooke, thence via the Quebec Central or Grand Trunk Railways, or by Dud swell Junction, and thence by Quebec Central to Levis. Those from the Maritime Provinces reach Levis, either by the Canadian Pacific Short Line to Megantic and thence by the Quebec Central, or by the Intercolonial Railway. In summer the Canadian Pacific Steamships, from Liverpool and European ports, make Quebec their Canadian port, and passengers then have an excellent opportunity of making a short stay at Quebec, to " rest up," after the long ocean voyage, at the comfortable Chateau Frontenac, and to make the acquaintance of a delightful and historic city before proceeding to their destinations in other parts of the continent. MONTREAL The Commercial Metropolis of Canada Most of the visitors to Quebec make a trip to Montreal, which, besides being the largest city in Canada, is second only to Quebec in historic interest. It is picturesquely situated on an island in the St. Lawrence River at the head of ocean navigation, and yet over goo miles inland, and is the commercial metropolis and the railway centre of the Dominion. Montreal ranks amongst the most beautiful cities of the continent. It presents all the aspects and elements of metropolitan life, with evidences of material wealth and prosperity on every hand. Yet in the midst of the bustle of the city's commerce are huge gray monasteries and convents and stately cathedrals which rival the grandest edifices of Europe in splendor and historic interest. Montreal is pre-eminently a city of churches, French and English, Protestant and Catholic. The Cathedral of St. James, modelled after St. Peter's at Rome, the old church of Notre Dame with its famous bell which is classed amongst the largest in the world, the Jesuit Church and College, Notre Dame de Lourdes, Bonsecours Church, dating from 1659, the Church of the Gesu, the English Cathedral, St. James (Methodist), and Erskine, St. Paul's and St. Andrew's (Presbyterian) are worth seeing. Mount Royal, from which the city takes its name, affords a delightful drive (or it can be ascended by incline railway), and from its d ° cPh rJT3 9 * ft « QUEBEC 31 summit is seen the grandest panorama of the picturesque valleys of the St. Lawrence and Ottawa rivers that is obtainable. Beyond the Belceil peaks eastward the Green Mountains of Vermont can be distinguished on clear days; to the south are the Adirondacks; and along the north runs the Laurentian range, oldest of the world's mountains. Other points of interest are the Victoria Bridge, spanning the St. Lawrence, McGill University, Royal Victoria College for Women, Windsor Station and offices of the Canadian Pacific Railway Co., Nelson Monument, Champ de Mars (the military parade ground of the early days), the Maisonneuve Monument on Place d'Armes, the immense C. P. R. Angus shops at the east end, Dominion Square, Royal Victoria Hospital, Place d'Armes, Chateau de Ramezay, Bonsecours Market on market days, the Place Viger Hotel and passenger station of the Canadian Pacific Railway, a magnificent modern structure recently erected opposite Place Viger, from which trains leave for and arrive from Quebec, and which is also conveniently near the wharves of the lake and ocean steamers. A run down the Lachine Rapids is an enjoyable experience and visits worth making are to the curious old Iroquois Indian Village of Caughnawaga, opposite Lachine, the home of the remnant of a once powerful nation, also to St. Helen's Island, Back River, Bout de l'lsle, Isle Gros Bois, Westmount, the fashionable suburb, or any of the numerous city parks and public buildings. Montreal has an admirable electric street car system, and its cab service is noted for its excellence and cheapness. OTTAWA The Capital of Canada Visitors to Quebec, via Montreal, can easily reach Ottawa, the Capital of the Dominion, by the Canadian Pacific or other railways, or by river in summer, the railway run being three hours from the commercial metropolis by the C. P. R. short line, which runs up the Ontario bank of the Ottawa river. Ottawa is another city whose site is one of picturesque grandeur. It is located on the Ottawa River, where the Rideau and Gatineau join, and where the waters of the first named hurl themselves over the Chaudiere Falls into a seething cauldron below. But it is the Dominion Government buildings which are the chief pride of Ottawa, and the principal objects of interest to tourists. They stand out boldly on Parliament Hill, overlooking the Ottawa. They were erected at a cost of about $5,000,000, the 32 QUEBEC corner stone being laid in i860 by the Prince of Wales, now King Edward VII. The octagonal shaped library in the rear of the Houses of Parliament is one of the most complete in the world, and contains 300,000 volumes, some of which are exceedingly rare. Other objects of interest are Rideau Hall, the home of the Governor-General of Canada, Rideau Canal, connecting the Ottawa with Lake Ontario at Kingston, built in 1827, for military purposes, the Fisheries Exhibit, National Art Gallery, Geological Museum, the Lover's Walk, Central Experimental Farm, Rockcliffe and Major Hill Parks, the city buildings, extensive saw-mills, and the timber slides by which the square timber from the Upper Ottawa passes down without damage into the navigable waters below. To go down these slides, as many visitors do, is an exciting and exhilarating experience. Opposite Ottawa is the French city of Hull, and combined they have a population of about 90,000. There are many pleasant resorts near Ottawa, and the Gatineau Valley, reached by rail, is a delightful summering place for the pleasure and health seeker, the angler and the sportsman in quest of large and small game. Parliament Buildings, Ottawa Cape Diamond Citadel Parliament Bldg. Chateau Frontenac Canadian Pacific Hotel System Basilica Laval University Lower ToWn and Canadian Pacific Station Canadian Pacific Docks 3 6 7 \ QUEBEC FROM POINT LEVIS R.M.S.0. Empress of Britain Canadian Pacific Atlantic Service m canadian VpacificI MnF