ENLARGED EDITION. CANADA; The Country, its People, Religions, Politics, Rulers, and its apparent Future, BEING A COMPENDIUM OP TRAVEL PROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC, The Great Lakes, Manitoba, the North-West, and British Columbia, WITH A DESCRIPTION OP THEIR Resources, Trade, Statistics, etc., viewed in its Business, Social and Political Aspects. The various Cities and Resorts, Salmon Rivers, etc., TOGETHER WITH THE Legends oe the Ottawa, the Lower St. Lawrence, and the Coast. A Valuable and Interesting Book for both Travellers and Home Folks. WITH 40 ILLUSTRATIONS, RAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE, &c. BY CAPTAIN "MAC." Price: Paper, $1.oo; Cloth, $1.50. Copyright Washington, D. C, 1881. Ottawa, 1882. Stationers' Hall, London, Eng., 1882. TO GEOEGE WASHINGTON STEPHENS, M.P.P., An able Representative, a Truthful Advocate of. the People, and an Honest Man, one of the few and gallant minority who have devoted time, energy and talent in protecting THE RIGHTS OF THE PEOPLE OF ' THE PROVINCE OF QUEBEC, This volume is most respectfully dedicated BY THE AUTHOR. Copyright, Washington, D.C., H.S., 1881. Entered according to Act of Parliament by McAdam McClasky. This city being a central point for shipment its business is large. The city is well laid out and pleasantly situated, whilst at night its leading thoroughfares and square are lighted by the electric light. Taking the cars of the A. & G. W. E. E. we arrive at Buffalo, the Lake outlet of the Erie and New York Central railways. A twenty-two mile run further on brings us to the famous Falls of Niagara, but, after crossing the Suspension bridge, we conclude to stop at one of the fine hotels, so numerous on the American side. Whilst at the Spencer House, it was my good fortune to become acquainted with Sir Arthur Kennedy, who, with his amiable daughter and attendants, were doing the Falls en route from Australia to London. Sir Arthur, who was the Governor General of Queensland, has been an official in Her Majesty's service some thirty-eight years, and was now on his return to his native country. I found him a studious and close observer of human nature, agreeable, and a perfect fund of information and anecdote. His satire on the selfishness of Canadian politicians and its grasping capitalists was certainly pungent and pointed. 28 Canada and the Canadians ; The contrast between the magnificent hotels on the American side, their reasonable charges for the accommodation offered, and the charges on the opposite is most marked. The hotels on the Canada side affording a good view of the Falls are few in number, and comprise the " Table Eock," I Prospect House," j Clifton House," which of late years has been generally run by speculators, the " Brunswick," and possibly another. The following, published in the last edition for the information of intending visitors, is a correct copy of a one day's board bill on the Canada side : Eoom 115, Mr. ■1880. — Dr. Board 1 Dy., Lodg., Bkft. & Din 7.00 Dinner claret, $1.50; Extras, $1.15...$2.65 Bus 1 way, 50c.; 1 way, 25c 75 $10.40 But when the mild-eyed visitor expostulated, and informed the clerk that he but arrived at 5 o'clock a.m. and would be away again by 5 o'clock p.m., too early for either tea or supper, he was assured by that white-bosomed, diamond-pinned gentleman, " that it was all right;" the charges were all the same, whether meals were taken or not, and, as a matter of great condescension, the visitor was confidently informed that the next time he came to the hotel they would give him supper free of all charge, which promise could with safety be made, knowing well that the visitor seldom returns a second time during the season. The charges are ordinary ones for every-day guests on other occasions; extraordinary charges 'are fully equal to the demands, for the average pile of the stranger is well cauged. No wonder that people generally no longer sigh From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 29 to " do " the beauties of Niagara for the summer, for the only way to travel would be the Kaintuckians : pay the bill but kill the clerk, and so check high-handed despotism for the future. Niagara Falls, once so noted and welTpatronized has, it seems, of late years, fallen into disrepute with the summer travellers, and the cause is still left unexplained, although numerous theories are advanced; whether it originates from the grasping propensities of the hotel proprietors, or whether it is a natural consequence of the scarcity of really good views without large payments is one of the facts for the public themselves to determine; or, possibly the younger generation have an idea that it may become international property and become a Park-like rendezvous for the citizens of both countries and the sights enjoyed without expense. A New Yorker, quoting his visit, says: " The first impression of the traveller arriving at Niagara is profound astonishment, that so many distinct and separate sights with corresponding fees could have been found in any one place. As far as discovered up to the time of writing, they are as follows : Goat Island f. $0.50 Cave of the Winds 1.00 $1.50 Prospect Park, Admission $0.25 "Art Gallery" 25 Inclined Eailway 25 Ferry to Canada 25 Shadow of the Eock 1.00 $2.00 30 Canada and the Canadians ; To go behind Horse Shoe Fall v. 1.00 Museum 50 Burning Spring ; 50 Lundy's Lane Battle Ground 50 Whirlpool Eapids 50 Whirlpool 50 To walk across Suspension Bridge 25 Eailway Suspension Bridge 25 $7.50 Besides these fees there are, for the lovers df old English customs, two toll gates on the Canada side, which the traveller, of course, pays in addition to his $1.50 per hour,- the legal rate for the hire of a hack; but that patronage has fallen off most lamentably of late is a fact well attested, although I was assured by one searcher after truth, a theological student, that a great sensation would be produced next season, that would once more awaken an interest in the Falls, for the leading inhabitants had subscribed to a fund for bringing scientific men to visit in a body, and as for sometime past carters and others have been actively engaged in dumping rock, both in the waters above and below, it will soon be scientifically demonstrated to a confiding public, and the figures accurately given, to prove how fast far-famed Niagara is receding towards Buffalo, and the sight of the immense pile of rock dumped from one end of Goat Island will be ample proof to demonstrate the astonishing foresight of the learned gentleman. The effect at night when the rays of the vari-colored electric light are cast over the Falls from the Park is one of striking beauty, and makes up in a measure for some of the many disappointments experienced, whilst the quietude From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 31 of the surroundings and the solemnity of the mighty rush of waters leads to earnest and devout contemplation of the wonderful and terrible in nature. A walk across the New Suspension Bridge, almost in the midst of the vapor arising from the Horseshoe, and a ramble along the Niagara Eiver to Clifton, two miles below, is really delightful and pleasant. The village of Clifton was formally the Eastern terminus of the G. W. E. of Canada, but it now crosses the Suspension Bridge and connects with the New York Central Eailway, thus forming a continuous route East to New York and the New England seaboard. This village, together with the village of Suspension Bridge on ihe United States side, and the Falls on both sides of the line, are the location of the Custom House Officers, who are naturally very vigi- Tant in the prosecution of their duty in the interests of their respective Governments. But the locality is also the stamping ground of a class of men known as " dogs," or in other words detective or agency informers, men who are banded together, with their signs, counters, etc., and who make money by various questionable ways and devices, and who are aided in part by their patrons, even so far, it is stated, that a portion of Government funds go to support these " thugs " or informers, whereas it is this class of men who should be well looked after by the Governments on both sides of the line, for instead of detection becoming a preventative, it rapidly becomes the nursery of crime and the shield of criminals. Among this class, to " put up a job on a man " is considered quite an achiev- ment, and a matter worthy of emulation. No sooner does a visitor arrive at one of the numerous hotels than he is " spotted," and should he be at all convivial in his habits, 32 Canada and the Canadians,; then the word is passed to the " gang," and he is followed, dogged and crowded, until out of sheer desperation he pays something to escape the trap he finds laid. Should he cross the bridge and be suspected of having money, then the word is passed along the line and over the borders, and the " dogs let loose," and the manner in which these " dogs give themselves away " is certainly ludicrous to the subject if he has sense enough to penetrate their mean- And, therefore, if we drift through life in the midst of secrets, and are encompassed with mysteries, an observing mind knows to a certain extent what is taking place in the atmosphere that surrounds us, and the relation it has with our minds is to assist in more fully developing the feeling of distrust and suspicion. Seeing a gentleman spend a little money on the American side, and then crossing apparently without baggage, is enough and he is "spotted." Taking the cars he will generally find himself followed by three strangers: the apparently laboring man, with a bottle and empty valise, the fresh-water sailor and tho shabby genteel. These three worthies range themselves on either side, and as near as possible to the stranger, and then commences the system. After several ineffectual attempts to enter into conversation, they commence an interchange of words, apparently between themselves, but talking at the stranger, such as, " Is he good "—" Wife," always disjointed fragments, the key to which is m their own possession—I played "—" Emigrant" —I Did he stop first floor "—" Cully, he's a slouch "—" work him "—" DaTesn't cross "—" Straight"—" Cash"—"See him with taffy." Then should the stranger,thinking he was in with | a hard crowd," or had fallen into bad hands, attempt to conciliate " the then, indeed, is he to he pitied, From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 33 for no sooner does one withdraw than he telegraphs the word that "a soft snap is on board," and almost at the next station he meets another crowd, well posted, so that, if rascals are inclined to cross the line they had better confess before leaving, and not defer until after being harassed like the Western defaulter, who originally appropriated $500, was followed by two Chicago detectives, and disgorged $400 to them as the price of his liberty; was almost immediately assailed by another, to whom he parted with $300; but when the third commenced his attack out of sheer despondency he went back, confessed his fault, and chose rather to go to prison than to be so hounded. It may possibly work very well in the case of criminals from justice; but when each passenger or traveller is given to understand that he is suspected of being nothing but a thief or a rascal, with the only honest men §?) those watching him, then it is about time that some reform along the borders was indulged in, even should it result in annexation itself to either country. At the hotels in some of the border ■towns these parties will parade before the door, or scrape a casual acquaintance at the bar, or on the street, and with one hand behind them inform the suspect that I possession is nine points of the law," " and they are for sale." It is from this class that Guarantee Societies, detectives and agencies obtain their information as to men and character, that sometimes results in the blighting or tarnishing of a young man's name or prospects for life, and on which testimony, as a chief remarked on oath at trial, that he was prepared to go on the witness stand and swear that such information gathered was the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth, so help him God ! Is an oath taken by such a class of men worth the ■MHmrn 34 Canada and the Canadians; time spent in subscribing to it ? Or is the poor victim convicted on such obtained testimony entitled to any pity or sympathy from the public at large ? Is not every man who is thought to possess a dollar liable to become a victim of the avarice, cupidity, or even spite, of such people. At the bar should they be treated sociably then there is every probability of being "railroaded," but should no notice be taken, and they, smarting under the mistaken impression formed regarding the stranger, then loud and pointed talk is indulged in, and remarks such as : " He'll pay for giving the boys this racket," " you bet this excursion's charged; " and, finally, when the fact was discovered that the stranger was a business man, it was then, " Can we sell him ?" " we can't drive him," and when the answer came. " Oh, he's too strong," the resolve was "then let's give him away," and when these self-constructed guardians of a man's honesty think it necessary or advisable to take away his character, they try to do it and " no mistake." Now to I give a ' man away" in their parlance means to ruin his prospects, or to denounce him; so the disappointed " thugs " hurry off to some of their friends, and enlist the aid of such as reside in the town, who commence at once to convince ell that he aint no use to any body, and these gentry with their hangers-on, both male and female, follow the business man from store to store, generally one entering with the stranger, the others carrying on an animated conversation at the doorway, passing such comments as " He's a bad un," " You bet." " He's caused a good deal of trouble, but he'll be fixed," " they got him this time," with other inferences of like nature so that, if the stranger even stands the pressure, he finds that, by the time he is ready to leave town, he has From the A tlantic to the Pacific. 35 acquired quite an unsavory character at the hands of theso gentry. Now is it not fully time that either or both Governments should institute some enquiry into the actions of such a class of men as these, who both are perpetrators and protectors of crime, and assume the charge of all citizens who may come within their ban. The Government Secret Service, for the support of which, with the Dominion and North-West mounted police, the people annually pay some $355,945.35, may be well enough, and, under the control of Chief John O'Neil, is most creditably managed, but the fostering of this so-called system of private detection is bringing odium on the citizens of both borders; and were I a juryman, and the evidence alone to consist of the testimony of these sellers of men, then I for one would never convict. Seven miles below, on the American side, is Lewiston, opposite which is Queenston, on whose heights is erected I Brock's Monument," commemorative of the early struggle for independence. Thence across the lower river to the village of Niagara, some sixteen miles below, and on the borders of Lake Ontario. This town is one of the oldest in the Province of Ontario, and was in former days the seat of Government. Here we found rest and quietness, good fishing—-both black bass, herring and white fish in abundance—quiet, and seemingly contented, people, and moderate charges, a consummation most devoutly desired by all summer travellers. And were'tourists aware of the many advantages that are offered by this almost forgotten little town, of the pleasant sights and trips on the lake that can be indulged in, and the real enjoyment obtained from a short stay, visitors'- would flock here in thou- 36 Canada and the Canadians; sands, instead of passing by almost without a notice. But to enjoy a week's rest, and to catch the fish yourself for meals, and find them served on the hotel table, piping hot, thirty, minutes after they have left the water, is an experience worth miles of travel. The town, although so near the great highways of travel, is completely isolated, but still containing several good hotels a conservative class of patrons annually resort here. The " Queen's Eoyal," owned by the Queen's of Toronto, is an elegant hostelry, and during the season is well filled. Business— the little that is attempted—follows the same routine from year to year; no energy is evinced, and consequently no desire for improvements. Here the lone fisherman is found in his primitive state, and even the bustling business man after a short residence generally busies^ himself by endeavoring to forget his worldly education and enjoy the universal quiet of the surroundings. Opposite to the ruins of old Fort George and on the American side, some seven miles below Lewiston, stands Fort Niagara, silent, grim and sentinel-like, to guard the entrance to the river in the interests of Uncle Sam. It is stated that a Frenchman, one M. De Salle, enclosed the spot with palisades in the year 1679? aud a fort was erected in 1725, which was taken by the British in 1759, and they held possession until the year 1796, when it was evacuated and given up to the United States. But on the 19th December, 1814, it was again taken by the British, who held it until March, 1815, when it was finally surrendered to the Americans. The fort is very strong, being of regular construction, and mounting many guns, with stone towers at the west, south-west and south angles, and is now under the From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 37 command of Capt. J. L. Tiernan, who has seen such active service on the plains and in the far west, and who at present is resting on his laurels in peace and quietness, which must contrast strongly with his lately adventurous life, but who in time of danger would be probably wider awake than to allow such a sacrifice of life as that permitted by Capt. Leonard, whose command were mercilessly butchered in December, 1814, by the Christian soldiers of a Christian king. The attack by the British on the night of December 19th, 1814, is thus chronicled: | The attacking force comprised the 100th Eegiment, the Grenadiers, companies of the first and the flank companies of the 41st, with some artillerymen, the whole under the command of Col. Murray of the 100th. Bateaux having been secretly conveyed overland from Burlington Beach to a point about four miles up the British side of the river, the troops silently left camp about ten o'clock at night, concealed their march under cover of the adjacent woods, embarked without noise, and landed undiscovered on the opposite side, whence they descended cautiously towards the fort. At that time Youngston, a village about two miles from the fort, served as an outpost, and was garrisoned by a small detachment from the fort. The attacking party thought it necessary to surprise this outpost without alarming the main body; so a picked number were sent in advance, followed closely by the remainder of the attacking party. When they arrived in Youngston, some of the former crept up stealthily to the window and peeped in; they saw a party of officers engaged at cards. ' What are trumps 2' asked one of the Americans. ' Bayonets are trumps,' answered one of the. peepers, breaking the window and entering with his companions, whilst the remainder of the detachment surround- 38 Canada and the Canadians; ing the house rushed into it, and bayoneted the whole of its defenseless inmates, that none might escape to alarm the fort. Not a shot was fired on either side, the sentries having retired into the building to shelter themselves from the extreme cold, giving them no time for resistance, and therefore allowing their assailants to finish their work of human destruction in grim silence. Eesuming their march the attacking party drew near the fort, not a word was spoken, the muskets carried squarely so the bayonets may not clash; the ice and crusted snow crackled beneath their tread, but the sound was borne backward on the gusts of a northeast wind, when suddenly the charger of Col. Hamilton neighed loudly, and was answered by a horse in a stable not far off from the front gate. The force instantly halted, expecting to hear an alarm suddenly given, and the sound of drums and bugles, and of the garrison rushing to their posts, but all remained quiet; the sentries, crouching in their boxes, take the neigh of the charger for that of some horse strayed from its farm house, or from some neighboring hamlet, and they felt no inclination to shiveringly explore the thick darkness of a moonless, wintry night. The approaching force, finding all was still, put itself in motion, went hastily and silently forward, and the crisis was near. The ' forlorn hope' was commanded by Lieut. Dawson and led by Sergeant Spearman. Halting about twenty-five yards from the gate, the Sergeant strode onward, and strange to say found the wicket open. The sentry, hearing some • one approach, issued from his box and asked, • Who comes there ?' Spearman answered, at the same time introducing :his shoulder through the half-opened wicket, * I guess, Mr., I come from Youngston.' The sentry, perceiving from his j accoutrements and actions that he is an enemy, turned in- \\ From the Atlantic to the Pacific* 39 wards, exclaiming, j The Brit—' the poor fellow said no more, Spearman's bayonet was in his side. The Sergeant then called the * forlorn hope,' which swiftly entered, followed by the column; the light company of the 100th made a rapid circuit, and escaladed, and the whole attacking force in a moment were inside the fort. Once inside they uttered a terrific yell which roused the sleeping garrison and occasioned a slight show of resistance. Lieut. Nolan of the 100th, a man of great personal strength, rushed into the lower part of the tower in order to bayonet the slumbering inmates. Next morning his body was found, the breast pierced by a deep bayonet wound, at the bottom of which were a musket ball and three buckshot; but he had taken the lives of three sleepers before he was stopped. One American lay at his feet whom he had killed by a pistol shot, whilst the cloven skulls of two others attested his strength and the rapidity of his actions. Some of his men followed him and took the tower, slaying its defenders to a man, and so brutalized were the victors that they rushed wildly into every building, bayoneting every American they met. In half an hour the fort was captured, and the blood-glutted victors sought to drown their excitement in drink and sleep. The short contest cost the British, Lieut. Nolan and five men killed, and two officers and three men wounded. The Americans lost 65 men, and two officers killed and twelve men wounded. Thus fell Fort Niagara, and with such unexpected facility as gave rise to the report that treason had contributed to its capture, and it was charged that Capt'. Leonard had betrayed it by giving to the British all the necessary information and countersigns. It was also known that a large 6um in specie was in the fort at the time of its capture,.and it was openly charged, and ever afterwards believed, that 40 Canada and the Canadians; some of the officers had embezzled the specie, and their increased expenditures justified the accusation. No enquiry, however, was made by the British, and the prize money which had been expected to be large was disappointingly small. The old fort is also noted for being the theatre of crime and tyranny as well as for military exploits, During the time it was in the possession of the French its use was that of a prison, and for many years afterwards in its dark and dreary dungeons, where light was not admitted, ample proofs remained of the instruments used for torture, exe? cution or for murder. During the war of Independence it was often quoted and dreaded as being theh eadquarters of all that was barbarous, unrelenting and cruel, it being the rendezvous for assembly of those savage hordes who carried death and destruction into peaceful and far-off American settlements ; and even after peace was proclaimed the old fort still held its reputation for enacting scenes of tyranny and murder; and the abduction of William Morgan, who was supposed to have been lodged in its magazine, kept there three or four days and then inhumanly drowned, once more awoke public interest in the old fort." On the shoals near the fort are most excellent fishing-grounds, and the chief recreation of the summer visitor is to sail out to the shoals, anchor the boat, and lazily read or dreamily pass the long summer day away. In the evenings and on Sundays of course other recreations are indulged in. The people of Niagara are friendly, hospitable and entertaining in their way. A retired Scotch gentleman who had resided here for the past four years, and with whom I had become on intimate terms, after solemnly assuring me over and over again that I was standing on historic and almost holy From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 41 ground, volunteered to show the sights,—so, after accepting his kind offer, I accompanied him to the little church on the rise, where he pointed with pride to the graves of seven young men who were drowned whilst engaged in the unholy sport of yachting on Sunday. After drawing conclusions, and pointing out the moral for my benefit, he then proceeded to show the beauties of the battle-ground and recount how many fell, indulging, meanwhile, in numerous comments on the perversity of the people of those times,- Seeing so many evidences of dissolution around me, and the near approach to that somnambulant state by those still in the flesh, we bid adieu to the peaceful little town and a fourteen mile drive brought us to St. Catharines, but twelve miles across country from the Suspension Bridge. Here we see the spirit of enterprise, contrasting strongly with the town just left,—all are agreed and are loud in their anticipations of the great benefits to be derived by enlarging and making the Welland a ship canal, for the development of direct trade from the West to Europe,each one be speaking for this bustling little town a grand future, with increasing prosperity for the country around about For some years past the town has been quite a fashionable summer resort, partly eaused by the celebrity of the curative properties of their artesian wells and mineral springs, said to be most successful in eases of rheumatism, etc. The hotels, the Springbank, Stephenson and Welland — the latter managed by a gentleman formerly of Eichmond, Va.— with the Norton, are about the principal. The canal connecting Lake Ontario with Lake Erie is some 28 miles in length, was built to overcome the Falls of Niagara, the fall between Erie and Ontario being some 330 feet, which is met by 27 locks, 150 feet in length and 27\ 1 BBS ■ IP ■ 42 Canada and the Canadians; feet wide, the building of which cost nearly $5,000,000, or, in English money, £1,061,497. The town is about 38 miles south of Toronto by water and 32 from Hamilton by rail. Its population is 9,631. It contains fine churches and private residences, with a general and marine hospital, the convent of St. Joseph, and several large manufactories, for which the town is preeminently adapted, having an inexhastible supply of water- power. Shipbuilding is an industry, and several fine yards are located here. The town has constant steam communication with the Upper Lakes, the United States, and Lower Canada, the Merchants Line running regularly during the season from Chicago to Montreal direct, and comprises the handsome and commodious steamers, Prussia, Ocean, Celtic, Cahfornia and Africa — as fine vessels of their class as any that sail the lakes. Steamers of the line also run between Cleveland, Ohio and Montreal, and have become very popular with travellers, owing in part, no doubt, to the enterprise of their Agent, Mr. H. G. Hunt, with whom the public have been for years familiar, and who recognize the genial smile with which he will book you either for Montreal, Hades or Chicago, or, in fact, to any railroad or steamship point known to the travelling world. From St. Catharines it is but an hour's run by rail to Hamilton, which city is located on Burlington Bay, in the bight of Lake Ontario, at its south-western extremity. Hamilton was first laid out in the year 1813, during the American war for Independence, but in 1841 contained but 3,446 inhabitants; during the next ten years its population had increased to 10,246. When the Great Western Eailway commenced operations it lent a new impetus to From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 43 the growth of the city, for in 1856 its population numbered some 25,000, since which time it has been steadily increasing, until at present it numbers 35,961, and its real estate represents a value of some millions. The hotels are good, the St. Nicholas, Eoyal and American being the most prominent. The harbor is also the terminus of the Mail Steamer line to Toronto, Kingston and other ports, on both shores of the Lake, and down the St. Lawrence to Montreal. Being the headquarters of the G. W. E. the town is essentially a railroad one, and the citizens have much to thank that enterprising corporation for the benefits they have derived. The depot is a fine and commodious one, in strong contrast to the G. T. station at Montreal. Here also are located the principal offices and workshops of the line, and at times, and on special occasions, the amount of work transacted is something enormous ; but, under the able management of F. Broughton, Chas. Stiff, Wm. Edgar and others, the British owners rest quiet and contented, knowing full well that competent men assume the management, whilst the interests of the corporation and themselves are fully looked after. The Great Western Eailway of Canada has become a favorite one with the travelling public, its passenger equipments are first-class in every particular, whilst its road-bed and track is one of the best on the American continent. Being the direct route between the East and the West, via the Falls of Niagara, on its system are all the principal cities and towns of Ontario, which, with its connections through to Manitoba, make the route one of the most desirable, as for speed,|comfort and safety it cannot be surpassed. The road actively contends with the Canada Southern and Grand Trunk for a considerable portion of the carrying-trade. 44 Canada and the Canadians ; It was rather a curious fact to notice whilst in this city the hold that Democracy has upon the people themselves : for several days it had been announced that H. E. H. Prince Leopold, the Princess Louise and suite, together with the Governor General, would pass on their journey to Niagara Falls, and a tour through a portion of the States ; still when the train arrived at the depot scarce fifty persons were assembled to pay their respects to Eoyalty, and the few attended mostly from motives of curiosity alone. About the only ones to greet the party were the railroad managers, the American vice consul and. a few American citizens. No enthusiasm was evinced ; not a cheer rent the air as a welcome; silently the Eoyal party arrived, and as silently departed, but the episode served to convince us more thoroughly that the people do not so firmly pin their faith on the Divine right of Princes as official sycophants would have us believe. At the time there was a wordy war progressing between the rich and poor on the subject of the Scott Act, debarring the sale of beer, wines and spirits in small quantities. The poor people look upon it as a curtailment of their rights, and assert that, as they have been brought to this artificial mode of life, they are only following scriptural advice, and trying to " drink, and forget their poverty and remember their misery no more." It must be here added that when the voters were mustered, the non-abstinence men came out ahead, re-echoing the cry of Solomon the Wise, " to stay me with flagons and comfort me with apple's (juice), for I am sick of love." The city itself lies some half mile back from the station. The people are an odd mixture of Yankee energy partially developed and old-time tardiness, thus giving force to the statement that the constant amalgamation of the races of ii; From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 45 the old world would bring forth even in one generation the inevitable Yankee, preserving the best and noblest characteristics of all, and probably eliminating from them their worst and evil habits. However, several enterprises are established, and at present are. in a paying condition. There is a large proportion of Scotch among the population, and they seem to vie with each other in emulating American ways. The city is a pleasant one, and the people congenial and social, who look forward to renewed prosperity in the near future. Brighton and Burlington beaches, situated between the bay and Lake Ontario, are the favorite resorts during the summer. From Hamilton a most delightful sail is by the steamer I Southern Belle " or % Eothsea Castle," two of the old- time blockade fleet, to Toronto, forty-miles distant. These vessels during the American war achieved notoriety for speed as blockade runners from Nassau, and still retain somewhat of their old reputation. Dundas, distant some five miles from Hamilton, is located on the slope of the hill, has fine water power and numerous mills and factories, and occupies a fertile tract of country. Being so close to Hamilton, and with constant communication by rail and boat, no doubt at some future time the one will be but the outer ward of the other. Passing Harrisburg, merely a junction, we arrive at the town of Brantford, containing some 10,000 inhabitants, and named in honor of the noted Indian Chief of the Six Nations, "Brant," who, with his tribe and allies, supported the British during the American war; he was feared and dreaded as being the most cruel and implacable Indian foe that Americans had to meet, and in ''Gertrude of 46 Canada and the Canadians; Wyoming " he is thus alluded to, " The mammoth comes, the fiend, the monster Brant," although later it has been several times denied that he took part in that horrible massacre in the peaceful valley on Pennsylvania soil. The town is situated at the junction of the G. T. and G. W. Eailways and was formerly connected by the canal to Grand river, and thence into Lake Erie, but since the advent of railroads the canal, some 2| miles in length, has fallen into disuse, and the locks at the entrance to the river are in a state of decay. The scenery along the banks of the river and canal is fine and varied; high roUing lands, well wooded with hard timber, lend a charm to the scene in summer, that makes the banks appear delightfully cool and refreshing. At the locks there were formerly fine mills and factories, but lately, the largest having been destroyed by fire, it is not considered necessary to rebuild so far from town. This town was formerly a good market for wheat, but the railroads have destroyed it somewhat, still it has other elements of prosperity and life, has excellent water power, and is situated in the midst of a productive region. Manufactories and various works are numerous, whilst other industries yet to be added are in contemplation. Floriculture was introduced by Mr. J. B. Hay, and his greenhouses in the midst of the city, well stocked with Flora and Fauna, are evidence of what perseverance can do in the way of attractions. Churches of each denomination are tound and well attended. It is curious to note that the industries of Brantford for some time past have been very unfortunate, not through inability to compete with others, or the inferiority of their products, but, as the native assured us, " from bad luck and the fire fiend." Phoenix-like hey arise from their ashes, and one set of mills seem to From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 47 have suffered quite a series of disasters which almost equals retribution. It happened some years ago that a number of capitalists erected a woollen mill some distance from town, had first-rate workmen, and with good water power and amid pleasant surroundings for a time all went well and satis-* factorily, and prosperity seemed to smile on all connected. The mills paid dividends and the men worked well, knowing and doing their duty, but unfortunately one day some woollen goods were missed, and suspicion crept in amongst the workmen. The sharp-sighted manager placed the " men of clues " on the track, and had the sin of theft fastened upon two of the employees of the mill. The proprietors pursued them to the bitter end, had the men convicted and sent to the Penitentiary for a number of years, which time has since expired, but from the era of that unfortunate occurrence misfortune seemed to hover over the industries of Brantford, so that after a siege of bad luck and other calamities, the mill in which the loss occurred was during 1881 burnt to the ground, whilst the other factories are either in the hands of the Sheriff, or converted by the present owners to other uses not designed by the proprietors. The Exhibition grounds are well laid out, and include a fine race track and buildings with stabling for stock. The Exhibition, under the presidency of the Ex-Mayor, J. S. Hamilton, has been of late a successful and attractive one. Numerous improvements are going on, the G. T. E. are building a new depot, more churches and numerous substantial buildings are in course of erection. The drill shed and armory of the Dufferin rifles is as large and commodious as any in Ontario, and taken altogether the vicinity is a delightful one in which to settle. The hotels are first-class and the cuisine good. The Kirby House, under the 48 Canada and the Canadians proprietorship of Mr. J. C. Palmer, is all that can be desired and is well patronized during the season by American visitors. The walks and drives are unsurpassed, the scenery of river, hills, woods and valley is unequalled in Southern Ontario, whilst six miles distant is the Indian Eeserve, where the remnant of the tribes of the once famoua Six Natious still reside. Near it is the Mohawk church where the Indians worship, and one of the oldest churches in the Dominion; near it is Brant's grave and monument. 0 n the reserve are located the Sour Springs, the waters of wiich being strongly impregnated with iron, possess considerable curative powers, and have been considered the Indian's panacea for all ills; whilst sulphur and other mineral springs abound. Boating and fishing on GrandJEiver are excellent, and are favorite pastimes, and taking a canoe and running the rapids is exciting pastime, and freely indulged in by the venturesome. The Commercial, under the proprietorship of H. T. Westbrook, is also an excellent hostelry, and, being both a sportsman and naturalist, a visit is both entertaining and instructive. Seven miles from Brantford is the town of Paris, so named from its contiguity to beds of gypsum or plaster- of-Paris- sometimes called the Harper's Ferry of Canada. It is a pretty little town of some 8000 people, situated also on the. banks of the Grand Eiver, amid scenery quite romantic in character. The town lies away from the line of rail, and, like other towns through this fertile portion of the province, gives every evidence of thrift and prosperity. Nothing could more fully attest the productive nature of the soil of this locality than to see so many towns closa together and each seemingly enjoying a fair share of commercial prosperity. The commercial agent for the United States From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 49 or this district is located at Paris, and Uncle Sam is represented by E. M. Sharpe of Michigan, a courteous and entertaining gentleman, who thoroughly believes in the absolute ultimate greatness of the country he represents. Passing Woodstock, a bustling little town of 5000 inhabitants, and the junction of the Port Dover and Lake Huron Eailway,. we arrive at London, 119 miles from Suspension Bridge and 110 from Windsor, a stirring and enterprising business-place, and is actively competing with Toronto and Hamilton for precedence in supplying the country trade. No great wealth is apparent on the surface : it is populated by a class of actual settlers, men who have risen by their own efforts, starting clear from the stump, and presents another instance of energy and enterprise of the Canadian when in close proximity with the citizens of the United States. In the year 1846 the then very small village was entirely burned down, but within ten years arose in the shape of a flourishing, well-built city. Several large importers are located here, whilst the people generally are enthusiastic as to the future of their pretty city. Its people are probably the most democratic in the Dominion; the acquirement of wealth here does not mean the putting on of " frills " and the assumption of " style ' so noticeable in the older cities east, whilst the Society and respectable poverty class are also invisible: they are all seemingly workers, their interests, to judge en passant, seem mutual. The city and surroundings are well watered by the river Thames, which is navigable to Chatham, sixty miles distant. During the past summer this little river, with apparently no depth of water, was the scene of a terrible disaster, by the wrecking of the Steamer Victoria, which vessel foundered with some 600 people on board, occasion- 50 Canada and the Canadians; ing one of the greatest calamities and loss of life that has ever happened to the city. London is well laid out, and contains within the area of the surrounding country all the elements requisite for its success—factories, workshops and other industries that bid fair in time to enable it to become one of the most energetic business places in the country. Numerous societies and associations are here for the benefit of its people, and they materially aid in the city's prosperity and advancement, although some of its public offices are denounced by its people, as, for instance, it is claimed that some associations and individuals are so unscrupulous that, having an entry into the Post Office, they manage to open letters in order to facilitate them in working their " points." This charge has also beenmade with reference to the same office in larger cities than London, and it was even acknowledged by an official " that hand- fuls of letters were taken en route, but always on the other side of the Line." Probably the fact will become so noticeable and apparent that the Government may in time take steps for its prevention. The brewery owned by John Carl- ing, M.P., comprises the finest block of buildings used for brewing purposes in Canada; they occupy one entire block, built of gray sandstone at a cost of over $200,000, the buildings are complete in themselves, each department being separate and all large and commodious. Of late the light lager beer of the United States has been introduced here for summer use, and with Ludwig, an old employee of Anhauser of St Louis, the venture will, no doubt, prove a success. The capacity of the lager department is over 7000 bbls each year, whilst the ale and porter sends out some 25,000 bbls, using in the production some 120,000 bushels of malt. The city contains two fine parks and recreation From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 51 grounds, Victoria and Queen's Park, and also extensive exhibition grounds, well laid out with beautiful flower beds and fine lawns, making them .qffjite favorite resorts for all. The hotels are excellent —the Tecumseh and Griggs are the most prominent. The Griggs House, under the proprietorship of Sam Griggs, is perhaps the best known house in the Dominion ; everything that can add to the comfort and enjoyment of the guest is carefully studied, whilst, should it ever be the ill fortune to be away from home and taken sick, one of the few hotels that provides every comfort, with tenderness and good nursing, is the one presided over by the good-natured, whole-souled, genial Sam Griggs. Leaving London we pass the pretty little town, of Strath- roy well situated, with a good surrounding country, janfl soon are landed at Wyoming, the junction of .the Petrolia branch, and 5 miles distant from that bustling, livery little town. Probably more business is transacted and more speculation entered into in Petrolia than any town of its size in the Upper province, the value of crude oil shipped during 1881 being some $ Being situated in the midst of the oil regions, wells with their unsightly frame work are visible from every point of view, and should a tender foot be smitten with the oil fever, he will find he can become the owner of a well already sunk at any price to suit his means, from fifty dollars to ten thousand. The only difference for the amount paid will be the fact that at the particular season of purchase the cheap wells are just stopped running, but there is plenty of oil, as soon as the rise takes place, which may keep the investor in hopes and expectancy as long as he wishes. The people are plain, hardworking, friendly and hospitable, always ready to .aid the From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 53 stranger in securing a valuable property, and full of goods advice. This is also the central market for the purchase of hogs for shipment to Chicago. Merchants carry heavy stocks, and business at all seasons is good. The hotels are fair for.the country, the Anderson House being probably the most prominent. Cheese factories and other local industries are to be met with all over the country. From Petrolia we run on to Sarnia, a substantial, well- built little town on the Eiver St Clair, opposite Port Huron, State of Michigan. Being again on the borders, the Customs and their inevitable adjuncts are again met with, and the same experience is undergone as elsewhere. After encouraging one of the gentry to follow, on arriving at the hotel you find him there, and very anxious to make acquaintance, so, after whiling away an hour or so with him, you will notice the look of intense disgust depicted on his countenance as the clerk returns him his small travelling satchel, when the remark is made, " there's no use for me here," the clerk informing you shortly afterwards in confidence that % the gentleman was only a Dr. Smith of Port Huron." Even the- Sarnia Chronicle at times denounces this mode, for it remarks, that " travellers and business men seeking to benefit the town should not be regarded as though they came to beg, borrow or steal something, but should be cordially received and listened to with patience." Merchants here are of a substantial class, many being their own importers, enterprising and discriminating ; the population is about 3000. The town is well provided with good hotels, the Bellchamber taking the lead, being moderate in price: and a good house generally, From Sarnia a very pleasant sail by the Northwestern Navigation Co.'s steamers- up Lake Huron is made to npp 54 Canada and the Canadians; Goderich, a summer resort, situated at the mouth of the -Maitland river. In summer a residence along the borders of Lake Huron is delightful. High winds prevail nearly all the season, keeping the atmosphere clear and cool, rendering the stay both invigorating and very beneficial to health. Fine views are to be had on all sides, whilst an excellent park and good drives are offered for resort and recreation. Several hotels, with the Albion and British American, afford ample accommodation for visitors, the towns on the lake being easy of access both by rail and steamer. Further up the lake is Kincardine, also a popular resort, well located on rising ground, and transacts a large amount of business, connected with the central cities by the Wellington, Grey and Bruce Eailroad. In this portion of Ontario there is still room for numbers of settlers ; the soil is a sandy loam, and is regarded as excellent for the production of wheat, farms being valued at from $50 to $60 per acre. The Salt works are extensive", which with other industries afford employment to a large number of persons. From Kincardine 45 miles up the lake and we arrive at Southampton. This town was formerly the most popular resort as well as the best business town on the lake, but of late some jealousy seems to have existed, and a new town of Port Elgin, 4f.mfl.es distant, has sprung up as an active competitor, and is certainly making some progress. The winters here are severe, the cold at times, (especially when the wind blows off the lake, being intense,) from 28° to 40° below Zero, the snow being in drifts to a depth of over 17 feet, but a steady winter provides good and uninterrupted sleighing. The soil is good and the land somewhat rolling in character, whilst the gravel roads throughout the country are kept in excellent condition. II From the Atlantjft to the. Pacific. 55 It is said that game, wild fowL etc-,, were at one lame plentiful in this vicinit*gj.fbut afcp^esenfcijii looks as if they had anticipated Horace-, Greeley's advice and gone West toward; the setting sun, or probably the country-had been visited by the H. B. Company o¥* their agents^ and consequently denudedof every thing of value. The Saugeen river empties into the lake at this poi&tfc and when the ice breaks in the spring, the panorama, presented is grand. It is astonishing to notice at that season the rapit-Jjty with which the vast expanse of snow disappears, a day or two of hot sun, and then a two or three days of soaking warm rain and the sixteen to tw^njljy His death agonies, " Father forgive them, for they know not what they do, " demanded at once the life of a fellow-being. A judge and jury were quickly got together, the man found guilty, sentence of death passed upon him, and some of the newspapers remarked " that the life about to be sacrificed, even were it a dozen, were nothing to the one .that had gone before.'' Fie upon the belief that God made man in His own image and the prayer Our Father, when such practices on a brother can be tolerated by. a Christian ; people ! And even after the hurriedly passed sentence had been carried out on the body of the poor wretch, there seemed to be a grim exultation when the papers noticed the fact that the man was poor, and no friends had visited him whilst in jaiL and the executioner had tortured the condemned by strapping him so tightly as to cause him to cry out with pain before hanging. In his sane moments, in the year 1791, Maximilian Eobespierre, the thinker, gave utterance to these words," I will prove that the punishment of death is. essentially unjust, secondly, that it has no tendency to repress crime, and, thirdly, that it multiplies offences much more than it diminishes them. In the eyes of justice and mercy these death-scenes, which are got up with so much solemnity, are nothing less than base assassinations, solemn crimes committed, not by individuals but by nations, and of which every individual must bear the responsibility. When a legislator can strike criminals in so many ways, merciful yet terrible, bloodless yet efficacious, why should he ever recur to the hazard of public executions ? The legislator: 62! Canada and the Canadians; who prefers death to milder chastisements within his power outrages every feeling and brutalizesi the minds of thet people, aJnd comes into power a newspaper manv, a whiskey or a beer mam. Listen- to the voice of reason: & tells, us human judgments, especially when weighted with prejudice, are never enough certain for society to condemn a man to death, those who condemn him, being men and subject to error j to take away frcm- man the. posribflity of expiating hi& m&deeds by repentance car by acta of virtue is, in my eyes, the most horriblsj refinement of: (amelty: In order, therefore, to preserves the sanctity- of human life the Government rulers and leaders of opinion should set: the example, and, by prompt punishment for crimes: committed, impress- the criminal with the ""certainty of punishment and the knowledge that the (Jovernment would reap the benefit of hia service for the remainder of his life. Already even the city prisons is acquiring? notoriety for its cruelties, and whippings of the poor unfortunates for the slightest infraction of its rules are of frequent occurrence. So long as ijfcis confined to their own citizens it may be all right, but when, once in a while, art American falls under the lash, and the city has to pay some thousands-of dollars for the privilege, they naturally pause to consider whether or not they have been toes precipitous and indascriminate in their favors. Far more fear took possession of the evil-doer, and more tenor struck the hearts of the Venetians, by the terrible uncertainty as to what became of the one condemned after he crossed the Bridge of Sighs than is impressed by the fighting of modern technicalities. When the verdict of guilty is pronounced, the criminal should be forever lest to the world outside, and his disposal left a matter of mere From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 63 conjecture to the community, the mode of punishment being known only to the Government and its officials. Students of psychology assert that, after the sudden removal from life, the Bpirit hovers near the scene of its execution, and we know that with all its-evil thoughts and those on parting still .more bitter, that on meeting with a kindred spirit in the flesh with whom it can come in rapport, it at once identifies itself with its Irving " com- ,.panion,so that the evil thoughts and actions of the last shall be worst than the first;" or not finding a medium to affiliate with, may, like the apparition that appeared in December, 1628, at the Palace of Berlin, call upon the Almighty and was heard to say: " V^nijaidica vivos et ■mortuosJ Judicium mUdadhucrsuperest." Come, judge the quick and the dead. I wait for judgment. That the disembodiedfepirit does for a time hover about the spot of cits taking off is a well-attested fact and as in a short time Tve shall have to appear before the Almighty power that idreated us, 8t is my belief that there is no crime in the category that will justify the taking of ihe life of a fellow- being. Surely the punishment by the Power that gave ns the breath of life will be far more terrible and complete than the pitiful vengeance man can meet out to his fellow, and oftentimes unjustly. Again, the constant repetition and hearing of such scenes-brings to the surface and fosters -in the heart all the baser passions of mankind, besides breeding a feeling of contempt for the life of another that all the outward forms of Christianity cannot obliterate. .During the winter, Toronto is often the scene of gaiety and pleasure, the winter sports both contributing to the -•health and pleasure of its people, skating and ice beat sailing, sleighing and tabogganning being most popular. / 64 Canada and the Canadians; Younge street, one of the principal thoroughfares, extends from the esplanade or water's edge for several miles into the interior towards Lake Simcoe, and affords a pleasant drive in good weather. The hotels of Toronto are well kept. The Queen's, under the management of Messrs. McGaw & Winnett being the most aristocratic ; the Eossin and American being also popular amongst all classes. The public generally are well catered for at a moderate charge; impositions on travellers are very rarely practiced, and, taken altogether, the city will, at no distatn day, become a pleasant resort for enterprising and s pecu- lative Americans. Six railroads center in Toronto, and the Great Western here joins the Grand Trunk, thus forming a continuous line through to Montreal, Quebec, St. John and Halifax, N.S. Toronto Bay is a popular resort for yachting, boating and other aquatic sports, and is well patronized, whilst on Sunday Hanlan's Island is a resort of the "Boys," as the bar at Hanlan's hotel is always open without any restraint, his taxes being remitted by the city council as a slight token of their esteem for his skill as an oarsman, and as a slight testimonial of their respect for his muscle. Amongst the cosmopolitan population assembled here in summertime, how easy it is to distinguish the cold-blooded calculating denizen of the northern latitude from the vivacious warm-hearted resident of southern climes Mexico or Cuba, but possibly the climate makes the difference, not only with men, but with plants, trees and even animals: the new-comer lately from his sunny clime is full of life and vigor, and liberal in his views, but were he to remain here, no doubt he would become as inert and L From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 65 and useless in this frigid zone as many of the inhabitants themselves. Embarking on board the steamer " Spartan," under command of Captain J. S. Bailey, of the Eichelieu and Ontario line—which line once famous for its liberality to passengers has rapidly degenerated until its stock was but worth 35; but during the present year the old fogy management has been changed, and an effort for the better is anticipated—we arrive at Port Hope, located on the north shore of Lake Ontario, 62 miles from Toronto. It has a fine and safe harbor, where steamers call daily from different lake ports, and is connected by the Midland E.E. to Peterboro, Midland and Haliburton, all in the Province of Ontario. The trade of the port of late has considerably decreased, having found in the next stopping place, Cobourg, but eight miles distant, a formidable rival, the latter town being situated nearly opposite the mouth of the Genesee Eiver, N.Y., and where the lake attains its greatest breadth; it possesses a geod harbor, and is much frequented by steamers and sailing vessels .on their way up and down the lakes. The town is a pleasant and hospitable one, containing numerous factories seemingly prosperous. The Hotel Arlington is noted as being one of the best hostelries on the lake shore, and during the summer season is filled to overflowing. The Arlington is spacious and well conducted, with fine grounds, good parlors for dancing and amusements, with library and reading rooms for the studious, whilst the sleeping apartments are cool, comfortable and airy, an attractive point for summer sojourners, situated in the midst of a fertile district; the luxuries of the season are to be found upon its board, and the hotel continues, as it has long been, a.favorite. Few places in 66 Canada and the Canadians; Canada present a more beautiful appearancetfiroin the water than Cobourg, the landscape being extensive and varied by a delightfaJbackground. Leaving Cobourg, the steamer makes out $ar ithe broad waters of the lake, and during the prevalence of storms and high winds quite a sea arises, and many^passengers experience -their first lessons in fresh water sailing, invariably naxpressing their sentiments in a wish to go to " New Yauk," but this is soon over, for shortly we make the port of Kingston, situated on a good harbor at the north-east extremity of Lake Ontario, and immediately above its outlet. All along, after leaving Port Hope, the surface of the lake was covered with myriads of dead fish, about the siae of a shadine, and numerous theories were advanced by our passengers to account for their sudden demise. The day being very hot a scientific piscaculturist insisted on the theory that the sun shone so intensely, so bright, and so warm, that the fish startled at such an unusual sight came to the surface to ascertain the cause, when, of course, they were sunstruok and died, immediately. Upon expressing this opinion the votary of science was unanimously requested to take a back seat and study theology for the balance of the trip. Another theory was that the fish commissioners having obtained a grant of cash from the Government for the propagation of fish in the rivers and lakes had wisely expended the amount, less their own percentage, in trying to acclimate salt water shad-tto the iresh waters of the lakes and rivers, and, having used all the cash appropriated, were now asking;more to further the experiment and enrich themsglyes. A few miles above Kingston is met with the first of the islands known as the Thousand Islands, Simcoe, Grand From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 67 and Wolf Islands being opposite the city, and, being converted into park and pic-nic grounds, become a popular summer resort for the city people. The first object to attract the traveller from the west by lake is Fort Henry, and the naval station of Fort Frederick at its base, with its battlements, fortifications, towers and redoubts. The former fort is a favorite resort, and from its elevated position is procured the best view that can be obtained of the city, lake and surrounding country. Kingston contains at present some 14,091 inhabitants. Its public and business buildings are substantial, its city hall is a fine edifice, which cost originally some $92,000, several industries are in operation, whilst at Navy Bay a shipbuilding yard and marine railway are located. Near the penitentiary at Portsmouth (two miles from the city) is a mineral spring resembling in its properties the artesian well at St. Catharines. Kingston occupies the site of the old French fort, Frontenac, one of a chain of forts or posts extending from Quebec to Mackinac on Lake Superior, and, being the outlet for the Bay of Quinte (Kan-ty) and the Eideau Canal make it an important mart for commerce. The canal extends from Kingston to Ottawa, a distance of 126 miles ; 37 locks overcome a total fall of 457 t feet between the lake and the Ottawa river, the canal alone costing the sum of £965,000. In the summer nearly all the pleasure yachts from Alexandria Bay and the American shore call constantly at the port, thus adding considerably to the life and business of the city. It was my privilege whilst here to become acquainted with the late Dr. J. Gilbert Holland, and to take a cruise in his fast little steam launch " Cameha." The launch is built on the finest lines, and is the fastest and best model of any among (HSKX 68 Canada and the Canadians; the islands: trim, neat, clean and well fitted, she looks a perfect model; she sits gracefully in the water and, as the enthusiastic engineer says, " she runs like a scart hound." The " Minnie," owned by a Brooklyn gentleman, and the " Cruiser," of Ottawa ownership, are often here during the season, although the latter yacht is built more for sea-coast trade. Public buildings are numerous, the Queen's University, the Asylum (it is astonishing to note the number of lunatic asylums throughout Canada, and still the people insist that one half are not confined within walls, but, probably, it is the effect of the cliruate) and the penitentiary — although the Kingstonians repudiate the charge that the latter building belongs to them, giving up all claims to Portsmouth, two miles distant, at which place the building is situated. The Penitentiary itself is a large combination of buildings, occupying an entire block on the lake .front, being isolated and surrounded with high walls; on the east side runs the railroad track, on the west are wharves at which vessels are unloaded with convict labor, south is the lake, and north the public road ; the walls are some 16 feet in height, with a pathway on the top ; watch towers are at each corner, and the place well guarded by sentinels. The building contains on an average some 550 convicts, and for the small sum of 25cts., payable at the warden's office,• a citizen can have the pleasure of going inside and viewing his fellow-men as if they were wild beasts or cattle on exhibition. The cost of keeping criminals at the Kingston Penitentiary is some $157,236.54, whilst the revenue derived amounts to $34,409.34; the total cost for keeping convicts throughout the Dominion amounts to $376,177.52, against which the revenue derived from Penitentiaries foots up $50,023.27. A short distance from ' From the Atlantic to the Pacific. the Penitentiary is the Kingston Asylum, a fine block of buildings having extensive grounds of some 114 acres surrounding it The buildings are pleasantly located on the rise, and are at present under the management of Dr. W. G* Metcalfe; its total capacity is 430, but the average number is 234. The institution is ably and economically managed, but probably one of the worst features is the manner in which it is supplied —the majority of its inmates arriving via the jail naturally detracts some from its reputation of being a hospital for the treatment of a disease, but under present management the treatment accorded the unfortunates is most humane, the food supplied being plentiful, nutritious and varied,—kindness is met with on every hand, whilst medical supervision constantly hovers over all; as a consequence, theinmates not only improve, but in many cases entirely recover. The out-door exercise being ample and conducive to health, the normal condition of the patient soon asserts itself, the inmates being employed in some useful out-door occupation or trade, and from the products of the farm alone, cultivated entirely by lunatic labor, under the guidance of a single overseer, there was realized the sum last year of $3,830.15. Patients are received in two ways, by warrant of the Lieutenant Governor from the county jails and from private homes by application. In Kingston are several hotels, for the accommodation of the travelling public, but the City Hotel, recently acquired by Archie McFaul, a genial and enterprising host, can be patronized with the utmost confidence, the public being- assured of every comfort and attention, the proprietor at present sparing no pains to render the house both attractive and inviting. The rooms are cool and well- furnished; the beds excellent, whilst the cuisine is as fine as the 70 Canada'and the Canadians; country affords. Delightful drives throughout the. surrounding country can be indulged in; the towns along the lakeside are pleasantly located. The cottages look homelike and comfortable, whilst the surroundings have an air of comfort and quiet contentment. Opposite to Kingston, some twelve miles through the canal, across Wolf Island, or thirty miles around in the State of New York, is Cape Vincent, distant twenty-five miles from Watertown, the terminus of the St. Lawrence Navigation Company's opposition line of steamers, and a transfer station of the Eome, Watertown and Ogdensburg Eailway. The town is well laid out, fine water frontage, and is supplied with good family hotels, for the accommodation of visitors, with whom the town is quite a favorite. Catamaran sailing and fishing are most indulged in. As capital is induced to invest at the Cape to aid in its development, no doubt, in the near future, it will be able to compete with its at present more pretentious rivals. Steam ferries communicate twice each day with Kingston, and the fare charged is sometimes 25c. but very often $1, according to whether you are taken for a stranger or a resident. Small steamers also connect with Clayton and Alexandria Bay on the American side. Leaving Kingston we are soon wending our way amidst the famous Thousand Islands, which stretch down the river for between forty and fifty miles, for which distance the . St. Lawrence is from six to twelve miles wide. Part of the .islands belong to Canada and part are within the boundary of the State of New York, the line dividing them about ■^equally. The islands that now axe bought and sold .like other properties undergo with their transfer a change o 4 oo >• ■z c r > *z o m 72 Canada and the Canadians; of name, most generally taking that of their present proprietor : thus we (pass Gage Island, on which is a lighthouse; Garden Island, a lumber depot; Howe and Carleton Islands, both having history connected with the fight for independence attached to them. The waters of the river vary at different seasons from three to four feet, exposing hundreds of islets. Our passengers, whilst admiring the islands (at this season of the year covered with verdure), rather took as a grim official joke the Government notices that the virgin forests were to be preserved, and affixing a penalty to any one found felling timber on the islands. Now about the only ones we could imagine attempting to fell timber would be some forlorn jay hawker from Kansas ; they have no timber except willow and corn stalks, and he would only fell it with his pocket knife for toothpicks, for on many of the islands if an unfortunate goat were to land at night he would browse away all the timber before morning. Some of the islands are so large that a cat might sit on them by keeping perfectly still, but to keep dry she would either have to wrap her tail around her neck, or else let it drop in the water. (N.B. Some of the islands are for sale cheap, full particulars from agent.) The fish most abundant are Maskinonge, pickerel, black bass, pike, perch, rock bass, catfish and eels; with the exception of the pike, they are mostly taken by hook and line. On the islands are found rabbits, sometimes coons and muskrats and in season quail, wild duck and mosquitoes, although sporting of late years does not afford as much pleasure as formerly. Then follow Grindstone and Johnston's Islands, the latter named after the noted Bill Johnston. From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 73 Wells Island lies above the village of Alexandria, and on the west side has a beautiful sheet of water called the Lake of the Thousand Islands. Numerous residences are erected on the islands by the proprietors, whilst some' are free for camping parties during the summer. The outfit for tenting should always include camphor for insects, aquamonia for bites, a few rolls of mosquito netting, whiskey for snake bites j dose, a quart to a bite, with a dram every once in awhile to ward off possible attacks matches and tinder to drive away gnats, and sticking plaster for wounds and injuries, for even the mosquitoes partake to a certain extent of the peculiarity of the climate and its people, for, instead of entertaining you with its song, and affectionately calling you 1 cuzzin " before proceeding to business, these northern invaders approach like a thief in the night, and, without sign or sound, commence . at onee in silence to extract from your comely form the blood that sustains life itself, moral: use oil of pennyroyal to defeat their machinations, but should they decline to be bribed by such sauces and syrups, why take a little rye and soda to nullify the poisons, the rye extract being taken internally, whilst the soda is used outside. The Admiralty, Fleet, Indian Group, and Amateur Islands lie either on the Canadian or U.S. lines, but below the latter islands the river contracts to one or two miles in width, and the Thousand Islands, of which there are estimated to be some 1400, may be said to terminate, although quite a number, called Brock's Group, are passed a short distance below Brock'ville. / 74 Canada and the Canadians; Landing at Brockville we find it a thriveing litl^ town of some 6000 inhabitants, connected with the capital by the Brockville and Ottawa E. B.and by ferry with the town of Morristown. A large amount of business is transacted and several important industries, including the chemical works, are located here. The town is supplied with good hotels, both near the river and also near the G. T. E. station. The Eevere, a short distance from the ferry landing and B. & 0. E. E., is probably the best patronized by the public. The ferries have a curious way of charging for passage: for nstance, to go to the United States costs 10c, whilst the are to return is 25c, and no doubt this will account for quite a number of citizens and emigrants when once acros3 the line not returning to Canada for want of lucre. Between Brockville and Prescott or Ogdensburg the river widens considerably. Arriving at Prescott we remain to witness the military manoeuvres and the sham fight on Dominion Day, the lst of July. In no two countries or states can a greater contrast be seen than is here presented by the village of Prescott on the Canadian side and the city of Ogdensburg in the State of New York. The latter is a thriving city of some 12,000 inhabitants and the terminus of the Utica & Black Eiver, Eome, Watertown & Ogdensburg and Ogdensburg & Champlain railways. The city boasts of fine elevators, good wharfage, saw mills, round houses and machine shops, and contains energy enough to make a prosperous and enterprising community, ostensibly showing American thrift and go-aheaditiveness ; the othei looks apparently but a shell or a ruin, although it is stated that soon there will be an elqyator on this side which will add somewhat to the prosperity of the town. At present it is in a wretched condition, the streets ill-kept, business is In Atlantic and Pacific. 75 but small, and, were it not for the small amount of cash spent by summer visitors and railroad travellers, the people must either starve or emigrate. Although the bank is fail to command a good amount of capital, yet such terms are demanded for its use that no improvements are ever thought of, and its merchants have no idea of ever increasing their trade. There are two breweries'and a distillery in Prescott, the owner of the distillery is a member of Parliament, and distils enough whiskey to control every yote in his district (and here I would remark that the favorites as M.Ps are the distillers, the brewers and newspaper editors. Although prohibited from engaging in trade whilst rendering their^country a service, the latter class either sell out to their relatives or form their paper into a company of which the brother is managing-director, whilst the Parliamentary adviser is looking for "fat takes" of the session) ; but the Prescott member is one of the most enterprising men in the place, and one who endeavors to keep up with the times making several trips to the States yearly, and no doubt adding to his general stock of knowledge, as also to his fine breed of stock, owning some of the choicest cattle in the province; he is about establishing a cattle ranche on an extensive scale east of the Eockies where, if the Indians and Mounted Police do not raid the stock, no doubt but it will be found a paying investment—M.Ps having the prit vilege of acreage at $10 per thousand. The hotels are small, and prices proportionately high, living poor, and the visitor very apt to make foreign acquaintances at almos any hour of the day or night he may occupy his room^ An excellent newspaper is published here—the Prescott Messenger—under the editorship of Chas J. Hynes; the paper is bright, newsy and vivacious, thoroughly advocating 76 Canada and the Canadian; and proclaiming the-advantages of the country surrounding. Dominion Day in Prescott was the great day of the year, the militia were encamped for their annual drill, a sham fight was to be indulged in, and an attack made on old- Fort Wellington, which is fondly imagined by the citizens to stand as a menace to the people on the other side of the river. The niilitia boys—the sons of small farmers—raw recruits but a few days before, went very creditably through their work, and aided in convincing me that the improvised soldier is, under certain circumstances, quite equal to the professional hireling, for, during the civil war in the United States it was on several occasions demonstrated that a small and patriotic command whipped and nearly annihilated a well equipped and veteran army of twice their number; but it is still to the interests of the rulers of the people to imbue false ideas upon this point. It i3 due here to state that the militia were drilled under the personal supervision of Col. George Shepherd who after years of active service in the East, is now passing the evening of life in his pleasant home at Burritts Eapids, It was by an attack upon Fort Wellington from Windmill Point, with a small company of liberators, that the gallant, brave and noble Pole, Col. Von Schoultz, in the year 1838, won for himself a lasting name and a respectful word even from the lips of his enemies. He was the soul of honor, and as cool of head as he was brave of heart; an sengers, even to those affectatious ones who " have done so much of the kentry you know, that it is becoming quite a bore, and besides we are going to Yurerope, you know," are all anxiously crowding forward to obtain a good view of the heaving, breaking and seething waters; and as we are about to plunge into the cauldron we seem to be running directly upon the rocky and grass-covered little Isle aux Diable; and for a moment the bow of the boat is so near that it seems impossible to clear it, but the steamer answers swiftly to the helm, and quick as thought she glides away from the danger it seemed impossible to avoid. The descent depends greatly on the coolness and calculation of the captain and pilot, for one false move and the passengers would experience lively times, for the current is so swift, the seas run high, whilst the boat is driven so rapidly by, that one touch upon the rocks and every plank would be started and the vessel shivered to atoms. But soon the thrill is passed, and leaving Isle aux Heron and Nuns' Island we are gliding under the Victoria Bridge, and rounding up for the wharf at Montreal. These last rapids have a greater fall in their descent than any on the river: the fall between Lachine and Montreal being forty- five feet, making a total fall from Lake Erie to Montreal of 550 feet The fall from the latter city to tide water at Three Eivers being thirteen feet makes the total fall from Lake Erie to sea level some 565 feet. The Lachine rapids are overcome by a canal eight and a half miles in length, containing five locks and which cost originally .£481,736, although far more is being spent on its enlargement annually. SKSBSffi wwwaffi From Hie Atlantic to the Pacific. 83 MONTREAL Montreal, formerly cal$&d Ville Marie, claims to be the largest city in British North America, having a population of 140,747, and is an admixture of the greed, selfishness and parsimony of Scotch with the shrewdness of the French. The city lies on the north bank of the river, which at this point is over two miles wide. The bearings of the city are lat. 45° 30' N. and long. 73° 25' W., whilst its site as a port at the head of ship navigation is an excellent one. Its wharves, extending down the river some 3 miles, are substantially built of wood faced with grey limestone. The managers of shipping interests have certainly persevered in order to obtain the wharfage privileges they now retain. A few years ago the "Allan Line " had almost entire control of the shipping interests of this port and being largely subsidized by both the Home and the Dominion Governments they fast assumed control of the trade, and became a monopoly that smaller companies were afraid to compete with; even now a moiety of the yearly subsidy granted to the Allans comprises the items of $126,533.32 and $28, 135.14. It is by the fostering care bestowed upon the line that has enabled it to comprise one of the largest fleets in the world, owning an ocean steam tonnage alone of 77,400 tons, with sailing ships, river and lake steamers as adjuncts. This line during the season of 1880 carried some 11,402 head of cattle, 11,430 sheep, and, 1,354,706 bushels or 169,- 338 quarters of grain. For a time it was thought the height of folly to attempt to compete or even to obtain a portion of the trade for a season, much less attempt to establish a permanent line as a candidate for public favor; but through the indomitable energy, perseverance, and close m 84 Canada and the Canadians; management of Mr. Thos. Cramp (David Torrance & Co.) the Dominion Line of Steamships have become a regular and permanent line of traders to this port, and are rapidly growing in favor with both shippers and the public generally, and are certainly well patronized. During the season the Dominion Line carried some 11,305 head of cattle, 21,262 sheep and 2,400,000 bushels grain. The steamers of this line divide their service, a portion of the fleet being regularly engaged in trading to New Orleans. The new vessels of the line will be amongst the finest steamships trading to North America. The " Vancouver," the latest addition to the fleet, is a vessel of 5,800 tons, four-masted, driven by compound engines; her saloons amidships are fitted with every modern appliance for the comfort of its passengers. The | Beaver Line," under the management of Messrs. Thompson, Murray & Co., also obtain a fair proportion of patronage. Their exports may be summed up in general as 6,457 head of cattle, 5,588 sheep, 1,050,- 000 bushels grain. The Donaldson Clyde Line, Temperley, together with the outside ships, are roughly estimated to have carried 20,396 head of cattle and 33,263 sheep. The total value of the Montreal exports for the season 1880 was $32,284,240, and for the year 1881 amounted to $31,300,000. A new line has been established through the enterprise of Wm. Darley Bentley, the Consul for Brazil. The line of which the Comte d'Eu and Tancarville are the pioneer steamers are now running from France to Canada, thence to the West Indies and Brazil, and it is thought that if proper interest is taken in the line that it will assist materially in establishing a permanent trade between the two countries, navigation opening here about the end of April and closing early in November. J ma rsnane Vour si mon feu n'avait pi .s de boucaae, Je lui ai dit: Retire-toi d'ici, Car, par ma foi, je percerai ton habit. Un noir corbeau volant a la aventure Vient se percher tout pres de ma toiture Je lui ai dit: mangeur de chair humaine Va-tfen chercher autre viande que mienne; Ya-t'en la bas, dans ces bois et marais, Tu trouveras plusiers corps Iroquois: Tu trouveras des chairs, aussi des os ; Va-t'en plu3 loin, laisse moi en repos. Bossignolet, va dire a ma maitresse A mes enfants qu'un adieu je leur laisse « Que j'ai garde mon amour et ma foi Et desormais fant renoncer a moi. C'est done ici que le monde m'abandonne, Mais j'ai secours en vous,'Sauveur des hommes! Tres-Sainte Vierge, ah 1 m'abandonnez pas, Permettez-moi de mourir entre vos bras 1 Passing Eigaud Mountain we arrive at Carillon ; rapids again occurring here, are overcome by means of a lock and canal 12 miles in length; then by Grenville to l'Orignal; thence 8 miles by waggon-road, and we arrive at the far-famed Caledonia Springs, noted from the earliest settlement of the country. It was these Springs formerly called | New- henee," that were spoken of by the untutored Gaspe" Indians in terms of adoration and reverence to Jacques Carrier, upon his arrival at their camp, as the " life waters;" and still further upon the Captain General's arrival at Quebec, the chief Donacona urged him forward to the Springs, whilst, I38r Canada and the Canadians; in the midst of winter, his crew and comrades were suffering death and were the victims of disease, ice-locked on board their ships in the St. Croix Eiver. It ;was amid the forests of this country that the Indian tribes placed their dead, and the young warriors brought the ailing and decrepid of their nation to partake of the healing waters, and once more obtain the strength that was supposed to be gone for ever. It is to these same life-giving waters that many of the robust men of our present time owe the exuberance of their feelings and their strength. Once a trackless wild and hard of access, now a most popular place of resort. A magnificent hotel is erected near their site; a village occupies the grounds that were formerly a forest entangled by undergrowth; beautiful cottages now adorn the swards that were once encumbered by wigwams and squatters' tents, until, to-day, that which was a wilderness now blossoms as the rose, and what was once a barren waste is now almost a second Eden. There are three springs in the village, and all are the property of the proprietors of the hotel, who, to benefit the entire community, have spared no expense to form a comfortable residence for all who may seek its waters, either in pursuit of health or merely for a summer's recreation. The carbonated or Gas Spring discharges some four gallons per minute; the spring is far more effectual in its results than the waters of Europe—- the gas evolved being carburetted hydrogen, three hundred cubic inches per minute, pleasantly saline to the taste, and its reaction distinctly alkaline. The Saline Spring, which is distant from the Gas Spring about 130 feet, is the one most generally sought for. It was this spring that, during the terrible epidemic of the year 1836-7, was accredited with restoring to normal From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 139 health the afflicted sufferers, both white and red, that camped about its waters. Its characteristics are slightly saline, evolving a small quantity of carburetted hydrogen, whilst its reaction is more strongly alkaline than the Gas Spring. The "White Sulphur Spring arises but a few feet from the Saline, discharges about four gallons per minute, is feebly sulphurous in both taste and odor. The efficacy ofv this spring in rheumatic and other affections is well attested, and the cures in proportion rival by far those of the famous German waters or the Hot Springs of Arkansas. The analysis comprising scientific figures, with which I will not bother the reader, therefore he cannot doubt their accuracy, comprise chloride of sodium, potassium, bromide of sodium, carbonate of lime, soda, magnesia, iron, iodide of sodium, sulphate of soda, potash, alumina, silica and carbonic acid. No well regulated visitor passing through this section of the country should fail to visit these Springs, and to carry away with him a proportion of that robust health that is here generally lying around loose, awaiting applicants from the busy, bustling world without. These Springs maintain the same flow and temperature at all seasons of the year, and the slightest change in their component parts has not been discovered since the Springs passed into the hands of the white settlers, but the season is short, extending but from the lst June to lst October. LEGENDS OF THE OTTAWA. The memory of the trip either up or down the Ottawa river is fraught with pleasing reminiscences : hardly a hill or headland that comes in sight but at one time was the scene of some of those fierce conflicts that were continually occurring between the Indians and the early French set- V HEROES OF VIU,E-.MARIE. From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 141 tiers. These legends, whether of victory or defeat, are invariably celebrated in soag or verse. The attack on Daulac and his sixteen foliowi-.rs, by the Indians, in May, 1660, is made the subject of a delightful poem by Geo. Murray, which is well wo:*sh obtaining, and is of considerable length, although interesting throughout. A portion of the legend as rendered by Geo. Martin appears in " The Heroes of Vitte Marie." The Indians had boasted that they would wipe the French from the face of the earth, and carry the white girls to their villages. Adam Daulac, or Dollard, Sieur des Ormeaux, was a young man, twenty-two years of age, fiery and impetuous, who had arrived in the colony some three years previous. Without enquiring to find out where the grievance of the Indians was located, he collected sixteen followers, whom he bound by an oath to help exterminate the Indians. They pledged themselves to neither give nor ask quarter; they then made their wills, confessed, and received the Sacraments, and started on their murderous errand, and erected a fort or stockade some fifty miles up the Ottawa river. The Indians had heard of their arrival and their determination, so they assembled in council, and decided that the invaders should perish. Their decision and subsequent attack on the French is thus described: THE HEROES OP VILLE MARIE, MAY", 1660. The .doom is proclaimed! 'twas the Sachems that spoke, And, rising, the calumet fiercely they broke ; The war-dance is danced, and the war-song is sung, And the warrior3, full painted, their weapons have slung. A Each armed with his arquebuse, hatchet and knife, How they hunger and thirst for the barbarous strife 1 They have said it: The Hrenchman shall sleep with the slain, Maid, matron and babe—not a soul shall remain I 142 Canada and the Canadians; They have spoken, those braves of the Iroquois league, Renowned for fierce courage and shrewdest intrigue. Through the "Ottawa's " forest like panthers they tread, As if stepping already o'er the pale- visaged dead. Adam Dollard, defender of fair Ville Marie, Has pondered and prayed o'er the savage decree, And a desperate purpose is stamped on his brow, And no one can slacken his ultimate vow. » * * * • There are some—Oh how few 1—in the bloom of their years, Who hare listened and pledged him and trampled their fears ; With hot hearts as brave as their sabres are keen, They are mustered around him—his gallant sixteen f • • • • • In a ready Redoubt, as by Providence meant, They hastily fashion their evergreen tent, And, here, in tho forest,' where " Uttawas " flows, They prepare for the speedy descent of their foes. ***** Hark t near, and still nearer, yell answers to yell, All the forest is peopled with spectres of hell! Not a tree- but now looks as if changed to a fiend. Not a rock but behind it a demon is screened. From the loop-holed Redoubt their first volley they pour, And Mohawks and Senecas sink iu their gore; From musket and huge musketoon they have seen, And heard—that our heroes count just seventeen. Then dire is the rage of the shame-smitten crew, When they find that the Pale-faces number so few; Again and again comes the stormy attack, And still, like pierced griffins, the pagans fall back. Day and night, night and day, till the tenth set of the sua, No trophy the maddened assailants have won, Though their fleet-footed runners have hurried from far, Haifa thousand tried allies—their whirlwinds of war. Onondagas, Cayugas, Oneidas, are there, Some howling for vengeance, some wild with despair; Once again, with a hurricane rush and a shout, Like a deluge of lightning, they storm the Redoubt. From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 143 In a moment, 'tis over 1 flash blending with flash, As sword-blades and tomahawks bloodily clash ; " Vive le Canada," Dolland exultingly cried, Then, with cross to his lips, like a martyr he died. And his faithful companions, his chivalrous band; With their gallant young captain, passed out of the land. Draw a veil, pallid muse, o'er the finishing scene, And crown with fresh garlands the brave seventeen. Nearing Ottawa we pass at Edinburgh, a South Eastern suburb of the city, the Eideau Falls (the Curtain) formed by the waters of the Eideau river emptying into the Ottawa. The Falls were at one time an interesting feature in the scenery of the river, and were a filmy, cloudy fall of some 30 feet, attracting much notice—being seen to advantage from the deck of the steamer, but of late business encroachments have made of the Falls a useful auxiliary instead of an ornament, by damming the current, and using it as a motive power for the saw mills that line its banks, and forcing the river to discharge the bulk of its waters into the canal, so the scenery, as nature finished it, exists only in the minds of old-time residents, and early visitors. Arriving at the City of Ottawa, navigation is at an end until after the Chaudiere Falls (the Boiling Pot) is passed. These falls are formed by a series of rapids, which ' commence in the Ottawa river, six miles above the city, and are the most interesting feature in it. The greatest height of the falls is about 40 feet, whilst every variety of form is presented : the volume of water descending in vast dark masses (the color of the water of the river being something like that of a tan pit) in graceful cascades, or in tumbling, struggling spray, they have been well described as a hundred rivers struggling for a passage* the grandest 144 Canada and the Canadians; sight being that of the lost Chaudiere, where an immense body of water is quietly sucked down and disappears under ground. I see thy waters boil, As if all Hades did burn, And Satan's imps, with ardor hot, Were thrusting wood beneath the pot. In the autumn and part of the winter the rocks around the Chaudiere become entirely bare, and expose to view a chff-like mass of shale, allowing a near approach for the contemplation of the enormous power of the seething waters which, with the slides, log runs, etc., is the real means of the commercial prosperity of the city. Some thirty mills are in operation around its base, and not one use steam as a motive power. At Aylmer, nine miles above the falls, situated at the foot of Chaudiere lake, an expansion of the Upper Ottawa, navigation is again resumed to Arnprior, at which place occur falls of some twelve feet, and thence to Pembroke, a lumbering town, 100 miles above the city, and which ranks as a town of some importance on the upper Ottawa. The region around stands unrivalled as a timber district, but, even with its apparant vastness of resource, the finest of the timber, both red and white pine, maple and ash, is rapidly being thinned out, revealing only a sandy and seemingly sterile soil, fit but for the cultivation of root crops. The length of the Ottawa river is about 780 miles, and is computed to drain a territory of fully 40,000 square miles. OTTAWA. The city of Ottawa, the seat of the Imperial Government, situated on the banks of the Ottawa river, just below lli I From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 145 Chaudiere Falls, was formerly called By-town, being named after a Col. By, chief of Staff of Eoyal Engineers, engaged in the construction of the Eideau canal, from Kingston to Ottawa, but the citizens becoming ashamed either of the; name of the Colonel, or the unaristocratic affix to their city, in the year 1855 petitioned Parliament to change its name to the present one of Ottawa. The city, like that of Quebec, is divided into Upper and Lower town. Across the Suspension bridge is the thriving town of Hull, formerly Slab Town, the store house for lumber prior to its shipment. Slides are erected on each side of the river for the passage of timber in order to avoid the great falL and the sight of the cribs of timber darting down these slides is a pleasing one. The present population of the city is 27,412, and is divided into two classes,—Government officials, politicians, and lumber dealers, raftsmen, or connected in some way with the lumber interest. The Parliamentary houses, situated on Barrack Hill and overlooking the river, are a splendid block of buildings, in the Italian Gothic style of architecture, and cost the people of the Dominion the sum of $4,041,914.37 in their erection. The buildings are in three blocks, the right and left wings being used as department and ministerial offices. In the eastern half of the centre block is the Senate Chamber of the Dominion, having a membership of 77 persons, and employing a clerical force of 84; whilst the Commons, occupying the other section of the centre block, has a membership of 206, being M.P.'s in contradistinction to the M. P. P.'s of the Provincial Legislatures. The arduous duties of these servants of the public, for the last session at least, seem to have consisted in a strenuous defence of themselves as individuals, against accusations of jobbery, bribery and other small m si m P o I 2i H <1 fW From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 147 corrupt practices, although it is stated that those who voted for the Syndicate are free from such accusations, being financially too well heeled and too high priced; but when such accusations for such paltry sums as $250 are earnestly entertained against a Dominion M.P., what then can be the price of a Provincial M.P.P. The total revenue derived by the Dominion Government is estimated at some $52,585,501.62, which enormous revenue is annually expended in governing the 4,000,000 of population. The salaries alone of the Governor General with the nine Lieut.-Governors of the Province amount to the sum of $683,967.94, whilst the contingent expenses, hack hire, ice, stationery, etc., etc., amount to $177,202.91, not a bad showing for ten men—an expenditure of $861,170.85, with house rent and other little etceteras free ; but still the Canadians are a hard set to govern, and probably the officials deserve the cash, although with all the resources of the Government it is all they can do to keep the people from earnest inquiry as to where the money goes, but its protege's are numerous, and are composed of relatives and friends of the Government of Great Britain, Army officers out of commission, with quite an array of clergy who are trying their hand in a new country, and who must be provided for. Justice is administered throughout the Dominion at an expense to the people of some $577,896.58. The cash goes out in quantity to all supporters of the Government, $489,327.29 is set apart for the Indians; how they get it will be shown as we get out into the territory. Widows of clergymen are allowed $10,949.37; Geological Survey costs $52,933.97; subsidies are granted to the amount of $398,876.76, whilst the allowance for the volunteer 148 Canada and the Canadians; service is $777,698.90, the show for which latter expenditure is like that offered to Napoleon the 3rd, all on paper, whilst miscellaneous fees and favoritism are credited with costing $101,602.15. The visit to Great Britain in 1880 of various ministers finally resulted, upon their return to Ottawa, upon the prepar ration and final passing of the Bill creating and contracting for the building of the Canadian Pacific Bailroad, but it was only after years of disputations, heart-burnings and numerous disappointments, that the construction of the road was at last determined upon, but the fact is stated, that even now the line has been commenced without accurate survey, or estimates having been prepared, therefore it becomes a firm belief with, many of its well-wishers that the difficulties of the road that are inevitable cannot be slightly overcome. The Canadian Goverment binds itself to a pro-cash grant per mile for each mile completed. So long, then, as the Government's credfB is good, and the cash be forthcoming, so long will the C.P.E. boom, and if eventually the line is completed the total money grant will be $25,000,000, and the total land grant 25 million acres. The Government paying but a pro rata, it matters little whether the whole line is completed or not. The expenditures for surveys alone on account of this road from 1871 to 1877 amounted to $3,136,615, of which the London Engineers with their numerous proteges and favorites are supposed to have received the lion's share. The people naturally inquiring what has been done for the sum of over $3,000,000 taken from the pockets of a half starved community, were answered oh ! ah! and consoled by the assertion, that the work was all classified substantially as follows : lst. Pleasure trip over the ground, 1st season. From the Atlantic to the Pacific. 149 2nd. Pleasure trip with surveyor and Government preacher as guest, who neither eat pemmican, or drink alkali water, 2nd season. 3rd. Pleasure trip to revise the last with a few friends. 4th. Pleasure trip with some parties who must be conciliated. 5th. Cash trips with laborers for locations. 6th. Cash trips for adepts to revise locations which are now mostly changed. Such is a synopsis of the work accomplished for an expenditure of three millions of money, but as regards those who entrust their money to the enterprise the results should be known for a certainty or foreseen as far as possible instead of trusting to a chance that if not propitious may bring ruin and beggary to thousands. The formation of the Company was one of the understandings with which the people of British Columbia joined the Confederation, for by the construction of the road it will bring the people of that Province into direct communication with the Atlantic? Seaboard. The route of the road, so far as at present can be ascertained, will be from Montreal to Callender, Lake Nipissing, about 350 miles ; to Thunder Bay, 650 miles ; thence to Lake of the "Woods, Manitoba, 220 miles, which forms beyond that point a connecting line with the present one from Winnipeg. Through Winnipeg to Brandon, below Eapid City, 275 miles; from thence through the fertile belt to the foot of the Eocky Mountains, 800 miles; thence across the Eockies, it is supposed, by Kicking Horse Pass (Yellowhead, and Kootenay Passes having been disapproved of, after aH the expense of survey), 300 miles; thence to Port Moody by Kamloops, Lytton and Yale, 250 miles; making the total number of miles 2,915, of 150 Canada and the Canadians; which about 845 are constructed and 2,070 yet to be built. There is no doubt but that when the spurs of the Eockies are reached, that engineering difficulties will arise that will be almost insurmountable, and with the drawbacks of the climate superhuman efforts will have to be made. before the line can even hope to be- a permanent one; but once over the Mountains and into British Columbia, passing the Lake Kamloops to the shores of Port Moody, the line will be of great benefit to the people of the Pacific coast, and a portion may be managed so as to pay its own working expenses. It is stated that, as the credit of the Government wanes, we shall hear far more of annexation, or independence, as a mode of escape -from the mountain of debt now being piled up. It is calculated when the engagements to the Syndicate are paid the total debs of the Dominion will amount to $203,397,680, which is certainly pretty good for a population of 4,000,000 ; and, estimating the increase at 18 per cent., each individual will find himself generously provided with .a burden of $54.27 to wipe out for the benefit of the C.P.E. and the Government generally. As the colored gentleman remarked " wen de intrust begins to go out de kentry jus look out, fur sumthing will hev to drap." The Hon. Edw. Blake, whilst admitting the existence of considerable prairie lands along the route, also avers that there ; are 515 miles in the territory unfit for cultivation, -whilst in the Eastern section some 500 miles is wholly unfit for habitation. Labouchere most bitterly condemns