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Diary of my voyage to Canada : Tuesday Canadian Pacific Steamships. Empress Mail 1912-06-18

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  Galaxy $f *«( voc^aae
^(Pcznac^:   TUESDAY
M  A  I  L
(^ Haunting Old French-Canadian Melody.)
i  iv   . -n-s*
1                           _
\A     U"2
»     «    r
■ r   *
p   »
irr> "   i
*     r
l\SI7        4
• L
* U
A       la   clai    -     re   fon - tai - ne
■y ,  ,^-\±-f-t=^
M'en   al - lant   pro-me-ner
-0 #»'
A       la clai    -    re fon - tai - ne        Men    al - lant
pro-me-ner, J*ai    trou - ve        1'eau   si     bel - le     Que       je m'y     suis   bai-gne
Lui      ya long - temps que   je    t'ai - me,   Ja - mais   je      ne        t'ou-blie - rai.
J'ai trouve l'eau si belle
Que je m'y suis baigne ;
Sous les feuilles d'un chene
Je me suis fait secher.
Lui ya longtemps, etc.
Sous les feuilles d'un chene
Je me suis fait secher,
Sur la plus haute branche
Le rossignol chantait.
Lui ya longtemps, etc.
Sur la plus haute branche
Le rossignol chantait.
Chante, rossignol, chante,
Toi qui as le coeur gai.
Lui ya longtemps, etc.
Chante, rossignol, chante
Toi qui as le coeur gai;
Tu as le coeur a rire,
Moi je l'ai-t-a plenrer.
Lui ya longtemps, etc.
Tu as le coeur a rire,
Moi je l'ai-t-a pleurer ;
J'ai perdu ma maitresse
Sans l'avoir merite.
Lui ya longtemps, etc.
J'ai perdu ma maitresse
Sans l'avoir merite
Pour un bouquet de roses
Que je lui refusai.
Lui ya longtemps, etc.
Pour un bouquet de roses
Que je lui refusai,
Je voudrais que la rose
Fut encore au rosier.
Lui ya longtemps, etc.
Je voudrais que la rose
Fut encore au rosier
Et moi et ma maitresse
Dans les mem' amities.
Lui ya longtemps que je t'aime,
Jamais je ne t'oublierai.
1' ■"
'■■'.'"""     ^b     fe;::fefe':'    ■} "'■
S.S. "Okanagan" arriving at Kelowna, B.C.
Pears in Mr. Stirling's Orchard, Kelowna, B.C.
qpHERE was a violet haze on the water, and nothing broke the stillness of the
■*• smooth-flowing river but the regular beat of the Indian's paddle. The rods were
set athwart the canoe, a 3j-inch spoon on one and a large Devon minnow on the
other. It had been a long day, and as there is only one position possible in a canoe,
I was getting weary. The close atmosphere and the smell of the pines began to have
a soporific effect, and I closed my eyes. The swi—ish . . . swi—ish, the regular beat
of the paddle, grew fainter and fainter . . . swi—ish . . . ish . . . oblivion.
" j unge ! lunge ! " cur-r-r. These were the combined noises that awaked me, comprised
■*—' of Ellick's loud cry of " Lunge ! " and the crescendo scream of a 4-inch pike
reel revolving like mad. Far away, the line was cutting the water with a hiss. There
was no mistake this time—I was fast in a maskalonge. I seized the rod, whilst Ellick
reeled up the other to avoid entanglement. The big spoon had done the business,
seducing the tiger which had gone forth on his evening prowl.
T had no fear of the rod, which was a stout green-heart of carefully selected timber, and
specially made for large salmon. The line was finest silk, and the spoon mounted
on gimp that could not be readily cut with the fish's formidable teeth. It was a
question, therefore, of firm hooking and careful handling. The moment I applied
pressure to check the run, the fish turned and took a slanting direction. Ellick paddled
towards him, and I recovered about twenty yards of line. More pressure set him off
again, with a pace equal to a salmon's, which ended with a break on the top of the
water, disclosing his full proportions to our admiring gaze. Another pause followed,
with more paddling and reel winding.    So things progressed for some time.
T^HE maskalonge's method of fight is cunning. He makes rapid runs in the effort to
break loose, then rests almost on the top of the water. This gives him breathing
space, and when the canoe approaches him he is off again as vigorous as ever. In this
particular he differs from the salmon, which only comes to the top when absolutely
exhausted, excepting, of course, Salmo salar's lordly springs. How far he might alter
this method if played with a hand-line, a method all too common in Canada, I do not
know. It is possible that the firm pressure of the rod brings him up. The spring
salmon of British Columbia keeps steadily on the move, with only an occasional dash,
and in that way reserves its strength. The maskalonge exceeds pike and Canadian
salmon in speed, but the runs are short. By such a method the fight is much prolonged. My captive leaped out of the water a couple of times, and acquitted himself
in such sporting style that I share the high opinion he has earned amongst anglers.
TT is not easy to play and land a fish from a canoe which is in danger of capsizing if
there is more smile on one side of the face than the other, so that when the stage
of exhaustion was reached, Ellick ran me ashore and I gaffed the prize.
Joseph Adams, in Ten Thousand Miles Through Canada.
:     : ; fe - C
Observation Car on C.P.R. Transcontinental Trains.
I"  IFE on a transcontinental train is not unlike life on shipboard.    You get to know
everyone so quickly.    The  motto that hangs up at the entrance to the C.P.R.
hotel at Field would do just as well for the smoking-room of any Pullman car or any
transatlantic liner.    It reads :
" To You.
" Stranger,  if you passing meet me, and desire to speak to me, why should you not
speak to me ?
" And why should I not speak to you ? "
A S night falls, and the train swings round the corner of some deep ravine, the hoarse
^^^ hooting of the locomotive is strangely reminiscent of the foghorn of a liner in mid-
ocean. Then, again, you have your meals together, you sleep in berths, and not in the
seclusive privacy of an English compartment. When anyone drops off at any station,
you feel like losing a shipmate. The days and days of journeying together in the same
car bring chance friendships strangely close.
i^.Ti.S.     Empress   &f  Britain."
Associated Press Telegrams received from
the Marconi Station,  Poldhu.
Tuesday, June 18, 1912.
The " Kolnische Zeitung " commenting
on the speech of Poincare in the French
Parliament notes with pleasure the
friendly tone towards Germany and the
assurance that the co-operation with
England has no aggressive character
against any third power,
Heavy fighting opposite the foreign
concession between soldiers and rebels.
Several persons killed and wounded.
Nine foreign gunboats are anchored near
the European quarters.
The   Upper  House of Hungarian Diet
passed    the    Defence    Bill  by a  large
It is reported that the Prince of Wales
will  receive  the  Grand   Cordon   of the
Legion    of    Honour    on    attaining   his
A  terrific   storm  of  hail   ravaged the
centre  of    the  Vermouth  country  and
wrought immense havoc,    Ten thousand
people are said to be in distress.
The German press publishes what
purports to be the last letter from
Wilbur Wright which was sent to a
well-known German aviator and which
gives Wilbur Wright's views concerning
the future of aviation.
Perth Amboy,  New Jersey.
Continued serious riots and bloodshed
by the strikers,
New York.
Mr. Roosevelt was received with much
enthusiasm      in      Chicago     when    he
addressed  a  gathering of ten thousand
people from the Congress Hotel.
It is reported  that   Sir George Kemp,
Liberal        M.P.,        for       North-West
Manchester, has resigned.
It is  stated that General Booth's loss
of    sight    must    now  be    regarded    as
The  Transport  Workers strike is now
confined to London.    The men in all the
other ports have returned to work.
The  International   Horse   Show  was
opened at Olympia yesterday.
Canadian     Pacifies       270J ; Grand
Trunk 29^ 5 Atchison 109§ ; Erie 34£ ;
Pennsylvania 63| ; Union Pacifies 173 ;
Mexican  56J; Hudson    Bays      117;
De     Beers     19|; Rio    Tinto   82 ;
Chartered   If;        Steel    70§; Steel
Pref. 113J; British Consols 76|;
French 93^ ; German 79.
Cotton, spot, moderate demand,
futures lower, June-July 6.51 J. July-
August 6.52. Sept.-Oct. 6.43J. Oct.-Nov.
6.38^. Dec.-Jan.-Feb. 6.35. March-April
AT Calgary one is already within sight of the Rockies, though these are still sixty
-*^ miles away. Sixty miles, however, are but a step in Canada, and the huge mass
of mountains through which the railroad has to pass extends to a width almost six
times as great, namely, 460 miles. Imagine a railway train from London to Perth
passing the whole of its route under stupendous snow-clad peaks of 8,oco to 12,000 feet, and
you can imagine what is to be seen by those who cross the Rockies by Canadian Pacific.
"DANFF and Lake Louise, two of the most popular resorts in the Rockies, are still in
the Province of Alberta, for British Columbia does not commence till a few miles
farther along the line where the train reaches the Great Divide, the summit of the
watershed that separates the Pacific Slope from the Atlantic. The rise in gradient
from the prairies is very gradual, and one travels through the pass at a good speed.
From the very commencement superb panoramas await the traveller, none more
beautiful than the view of the Three Sisters near Canmore, three mmense masses
of jagged peaks on the left of the line.
T*HE orthodox thing to do at Banff is to drive round Tunnel Mountain and inspect
the buffaloes in the enclosure of the National Park. Then there are the hot
springs under the charge of a Scotch philosopher wearing a species of Tam o' Shanter,
who delivers a highly metaphysical explanation of the cave and its sulphurous smell to
the troops of admiring tourists. But the most delightful trip of all is on a motor-
launch up the Bow River, which for eight or nine miles traverses a level plateau
surrounded by exquisite scenery.
AT Banff the Alpine Club of Canada has recently erected a club-house, for though
^*- this Society is only five years old, it already possesses 500 members, and the
annual meet is now attended by climbers from all over the world. At one recent camp
a distinguished guest was an Englishman, Dr. T. Longstaff, whose explorations in the
Himalayas have placed him in the first ranks of English geographers. It was
Dr. Longstaff who fixed the exact position of the largest watershed in Asia. " I had
been but a short time in camp," writes a contributor to Rod and Gun, " when I met
a well-tanned, medium-sized, wiry-looking man, bent under a heavy burden of brush,
making his way to the newly-erected tents in the ladies' quarters. It was the doctor !
He was the Club's distinguished guest from England. Brushing tents was not in
the programme for him, but he was extremely anxious for work, and as it is part of the
policy of the Alpine Club to make its guests happy, ;the doctor was given free rein
in this respect, and in wielding an axe or pitching a tent he was second to none."
TUlERE is what Dr. Longstaff says about this wonderful country:—"In the Rockies
-*- •■■ and Selkirks of Canada there is a country waiting for recognition, which, I
believe, is destined to become the playground of the world, just as the Alps
have been for one short century the playground of Europe. In no other mountain
region of the globe do peak and cliff, snowfield and glacier, alpland and forest, lake,
cataract, and stream, form such a perfect combination as is to be found, not in one,
but in hundreds of places, in these glorious ranges. Though I hold that no one can
fully appreciate mountain scenery who has not actually come to grips with the peaks
themselves, yet the fascination of the Canadian mountains is such that merely to travel
through them and come amongst them is sufficient reward for anyone who is not blind."
A FEW years ago the holiday resorts in the Canadian Rockies were known mostly to
rV Americans. Canadians themselves were in a minority in the hotels, and the
Englishman was a rara avis whose presence was a matter of comment. The Americans
are still to the fore, but the British element is now also much in evidence. The
manageress of the Chalet at Emerald Lake told me that this year she had been struck
by the large number of English visitors-—delightful people they were, too—who had
taken part in the camping trips up the Yoho Valley.
rTT[E Yoho Valley was conceived by nature on a scale so immense that it is
-■- impossible to cover the ground even on horseback in one day. Permanent
summer camps have therefore been arranged at convenient intervals, so that parties
riding out from Emerald Lake or Field can be sure of finding a bed and a meal at the
end of the day. The bed is a bed of tamarisk boughs, fragrant and sweet, under
shelter of a tent, and the meal is prepared by a skilful Chinese cook. After dinner one
sits round the camp-fire telling stories about all sorts of things, especially bears.
 Canadian Pacific
10.000 ft above the Sea,
lake Oesa.
For the convenience of tourists, the Canadian Pacific Railway has arranged to
maintain permanent summer camps in the Yoho Valley. Parties leave Emerald Lake
and Field nearly every day for two and three day trips in connection with these camps
—an ideal way of seeing the Rockies.
IN the year 1894 the Dominion Government withdrew from sale and homestead entry
a tract of land containing some millions of acres located east of the city of Calgary,
along the main line of the Canadian Pacific Railway. The object of this reservation
was to provide for the construction, ultimately, of an irrigation system to cover the
fertile Bow River Valley. It was realized that such a project could only be successfully
accomplished by so administering the lands embraced within the tract in question, that
the promoters would not be hampered by any vested interests created by the alienation
from the Crown of any of these lands. The project, the greatest on the American
Continent, is now being pushed to its completion.
\\T HILE subsequent events have amply justified the reservation of this enormous
area of land, so fertile and so favourably situated, immediately adjoining the
largest city in Alberta, and traversed by the main line of Canada's transcontinental
railway, a hardship was, perhaps, inflicted upon the early settlers, who were thus
compelled to go farther back for locations. What was their loss is, however, the gain
of those who are at this time looking for new homes and appreciate the opportunities
presented in this block of land.
^y HE Canadian Pacific Railway Company undertook to construct the gigantic
-*■ irrigation system above referred to, and selected as part of its land grant a block
comprising three million acres of the best agricultural lands, which has now been
opened for colonization.
r I ^ HE Canadian Pacific Railway Company owns a large tract of these rich Bow River
-*■ Valley lands. This tract has an average width of forty miles from north to south,
and extends from Calgary eastward 150 miles. The land lies along the main line of
their railway, and it is supplied with a first-class passenger and freight service.
PHE water supply, taken from the Bow River, is inexhaustible, and will for all time
furnish sufficient moisture for the 3,000,000 acres of land under the Company's
canal system, and at the small annual water rental of 50 c. a year. When the work now
• going forward on the central and eastern sections of this undertaking is completed
3,000 miles of canals and waterways will have been constructed by the Company. The
work now completed has been remarked upon by Dr. Elwood Mead, Chief of Drainage
and Irrigation Investigations, Department of Agriculture, Washington, as superior to
anything he has seen in his investigations on this continent.
THE  Railway Company has undertaken  the  construction of the largest  irrigation
system   on  the   Western   Hemisphere.    About  one-third  of the  system is  now
finished, and the land in this section has been placed upon the market at a price and
upon terms that are attracting settlement from all over the world.
T^HIS is neither a land nor a water selling scheme.    The low prices charged for both
make that clear.    The Canadian Pacific Railway is expending millions of dollars
on this project purely and simply to build up the most prosperous agricultural community in the world.
TDROBABLY  the greatest boon that  irrigation  has  conferred  on  mankind  is the
practical demonstration of the profitableness of the small farm, acre for acre, as
compared with the large farm.    Southern Alberta contains as many striking proofs of
this profitableness as may be found in the older districts.    The day was when anything
less than a section of land was looked upon as being too small, and from that up to
several thousand acres was considered none too large for a farm. But that day has
passed, and farms have gradually decreased in size until to-day forty acres well cultivated will produce greater returns than 160 acres would under the old system.
A Farm Garden on the C.P.R. Irrigation EJlock in Souther
K  I  P L I N G   O N   T H E    C.  P.  R.
,rPhro' the gorge that gives the stars at noonday clear,
Up the pass that packs the scud beneath our wheel,
Round the bluff that sinks a thousand fathom shear,
Down the valley with our guttering brakes   a-squeal ;
Where the trestle groans and quivers in the snow,
Where the  many  shedded levels loop and twine,
Hear me lead my reckless children from below,
Till we sing the song of Roland to the pine,
So we ride the iron stallions down to drink
Through the canyons to the waters of the West."
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