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Fishing and shooting along the line of the Canadian Pacific Railway, in the provinces of Ontario, Quebec,… Canadian Pacific Railway Company. Passenger Department 1892

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HliOfiG  TflE   UlftE
CANADIAN  PACIFIC
RAILWAY,
Provinces of Ontario, Quebec, the Maritime Provinces, and the
Prairies and Mountains of Western Canada.
ISSUED BY THE
GENERAL   PASSENGER   DEPARTMENT
CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY.
Montreal, 1892.
4
&CILC4
■it 1 - %u&tx.
Fishing and Shooting  3
North Shore of the St. Lawrence, and Lake St. John  5
Lakes Megantic and Moosehead  8
New Brunswick  12
The Rideau Lakes  14
Sharbot  Lake •  16
River Trent and Adjacent Waters, Peterboro  18
Lakes North of the Trent  20
The Covers and Waters of Western Ontario  22
The Mississippi  River and Lakes  25
The Ottawa River and its Tributaries  26
The Mattawa River and the Upper Ottawa  31
Lake Nipissing and Trout Lake  35
The Pleasures of Angling  39
Sturgeon Falls to Port   Arthur, including Nepigon, Steel, and Rivers
of North Shore  4°
Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan, and Wisconsin  47
Canadian Northwest, the Rocky Mountains, and British Columbia— 49
Close Seasons for Game and Fish, Province of Ontario  62
"             "          "          "                 "               Quebec  62
"             "          "          "                 "               New Brunswick  63
"             "          "          "                 "               Nova Scotia  63
"              "          "          "                "               Manitoba  64
"              "          "          "           Northwest Territories   64
"             "          I          "           Province of British Columbia  65
"           State of Maine  65
'*          Vermont  65
Michigan  66
Wisconsin  66
Officials and Agents Canadian Pacific Railway  66, 67
Special Publications  72
i?tfitx.ci:pal iU\\stxx.titm&.
Map of the Canadian Pacific Railway Inside front cov
" What did you say that fish weighed ? "	
Ruffed Grouse	
The Very Spot	
Map Eastern Lines Canadian Pacific Railway	
"   Nepigon River	
Banff Hotei   	
Map of Lower Kootenay District   •
Rocky Mountain Sheep	 FISHING AND SHOOTING.
L
WslYp
i
two questions which sportsmen are
now  asking are, where is sport to
be found, and which is the best way
of getting there ?   This little book is
intended to assist such enquirers in
deciding for  themselves.    It deals
with the twin subjects, —fishing and
shooting, — and is intended to indicate   localities  generally and  their
requirements,   leaving   intending
sportsmen   to   regulate   the   modus
operandi according to their several
tastes.      Some  are not content to
" rough it," however richly they may be rewarded,
but require all the accessories of civilization that
can  reasonably be obtained;  others regard the
camp,  the  occasional inconveniences,  and  the
complete change in mode of life, as additional
attractions  to  the search for  and securing of
their game.
No other part of the continent is on a par with Canada in the variety
and plenty of sport obtainable at the expense of a little time and pleasant
trouble; and it so happens that the best game districts of the Dominion
are either in the immediate vicinity, or at no great distance from, the
Canadian Pacific Railway. It passes through the heart of the caribou
and deer country of New Brunswick and Eastern Quebec,— country which
is not only celebrated for its big game, but which abounds in trout-
streams and small lakes inhabited by many varieties of fish; and for the
greater part of the way between St. John, N.B., and Vancouver, on the
Pacific Ocean, passes through territory from which, in the season, no
sportsman, however untried he may be, should return empty handed.
But there is necessarily considerable difference between the resources of
one field and another. Not merely is one locality more promising of one
kind of game than of another,— one good for caribou, but scant of moose;
one well streaked with trout-streams, but affording less excellent bass
fishing; one unsurpassed for geese and other wild fowl, but not so good
as other localities for grouse. But there are some which combine many
kinds of game, and will well repay the organization of a camping party,
while some other places may be shot over during the day, permitting the
sportsman to return to his temporary home at night. The Canadian
Pacific Railway traverses country of all kinds, and has opened up to
sportsmen vast tracks hitherto almost inaccessible, and, while reaching
shooting and fishing grounds hitherto unworked, conveys its passengers
(3) INTRODUCTION.
to the field of their operation in comfort and luxury. To preserve the
game from the destructive pot-hunter, the several provinces of the
Dominion have from time to time passed game laws, principally intended
to regulate the dates of the open and close seasons and to limit the number of deer that should fall to each gun. These laws, in condensed form,
are published in this pamphlet, and should be read by those who are
arranging a sporting tour.
|^ THE NORTH SHORE OF THE ST. LAWRENCE EAST OF
MONTREAL, INCLUDING LAKE ST. JOHN.
ATRIAL of some of the small lakes and streams, so plentiful
along the north shore of the St. Lawrence River between Montreal and Quebec, should prove a most satisfactory undertaking to any one who is satisfied with killing fish of moderate weight.
North of the river, some miles inland, the rugged Laurentian range
of mountains runs parallel to the course of the St. Lawrence, and among
them rises stream after stream, feeders of the multitude of small lakes
and the greater rivers, and in one and all trout are plentiful. In general
aspect this region bears some resemblance to the Muskoka Territory;
but it is, if anything, the more picturesque of the two, and is certainly a
far superior region for the angler. It is rough and wild to a degree in
many places, and to fish it properly not unfrequently means " roughing
it" to a certain extent. Anglers from Montreal generally find good
sport near St. Jerome, and on the small lakes and their feeders within
seven or eight miles of New Glasgow, these points being but a short run
from Montreal. Half and three-quarter pound trout are good fish in
these waters, and, while much larger ones are but seldom taken, there
are plenty of the size mentioned.
Among the hills northward of St. Barthelemi, and distant from that
station fifteen miles, are waters that will be found well worth a trial; and
the headwaters and tributaries of the St. Maurice River, which flows
into the St. Lawrence at Three Rivers, are abundantly stocked with fair-
sized fish. The celebrated Mastigouche chain of lakes are reached by
stage from St. Gabriel, the terminus of the Joliet branch, and distant
from Montreal seventy-eight miles. The headquarters for anglers is the
Mastigouche House, a well managed stopping-place. The Shawenegan
River, reached by stage from Lac a la Tortue (Turtle Lake) or Three
Rivers, usually furnishes heavy strings of trout as handsome and gamy as
can be taken anywhere, and big ones are fairly plentiful. The Shawenegan
House will be found a comfortable, well-managed hotel, where no effort
is spared to oblige visitors or insure their finding good sport.
The station of Portneuf, thirty miles from the city of Quebec, is a
promising objective point. A drive from there about fifteen miles up the
river will bring one to excellent fishing in the river above and below the
falls. In an afternoon and evening a well-known angler of Montreal
killed sixteen dozen trout, and they were a handsome lot of fish. Two
pounds and a half was reached by several, and the smallest was over half
a pound, the majority ranging between the latter weight and a pound and
a quarter. It was in July (the best month on that water), and wherever
a little stream poured its icy current into the river the fish were in great
numbers and rose so eagerly that, in his own words, " the water fairly
boiled with trout at every cast." Nearly due north, and about ioo miles
distant from the city of Quebec, lies the much-written-of Lake St. John,
the "Pikouagami" (Flat Lake) of the Indians, and the headwaters of the
wonderful Saguenay River, and the home of the ouananiche. By means
of the Quebec & Lake St. John Railway, this lake is now easily reached,
the line running to the shore.
(S) FISHING AND SHOOTING.
Writers differ in describing this lake, some, who probably have never
seen it,^|feting that its surroundings are wild and picturesque in the
fullest sense of the term; others, and they correctly, speak of the scenery
as being beautiful at points here and there upon the lake, but improving
wonderfully if the tourist explores some of the tributary rivers. It must
be remembered that this is no newly discovered spot, as many people
imagine. Over 200 years ago it was well known, and at present,
instead of the howling wilderness of some writers, the visitor will find
many well-tilled farms and several small villages upon the south and
west shores.
Chief of these villages is Roberval, the lake terminus of the railway.
Here the Hotel Roberval, a large, well-built new house, offers comfortable
accommodation for 100 guests. Montagnais Indians may be secured as
guides from their village close by. They are thoroughly posted in
regard to the best localities for fishing, and have plenty of excellent
canoes. A steamer plies between Roberval and all interesting points
upon the lake, taking anglers and camp outfits to Grande Decharge and
other noted fishing resorts. Tents, canoes, camp supplies, etc., can all
be hired at the hotel at moderate rates. At Grande Decharge a permanent camp has been constructed, with ample room for twenty persons.
Eighteen rivers, large and small, empty into Lake St. John; in one or
two of these the ouananiche furnish good sport, and all of them are well
stocked with speckled trout. Of these the Peribonca is navigable by
steamer for thirty miles from its mouth, the Ticouapee for the same
distance, the Mistassini for about twenty miles, and the Ashuapmouchouan
(the river where they watch the moose, in Indian parlance) for about
fifteen miles. The Ouiatchouan River is perhaps the most attractive, its
special feature being Ouiatchouan Falls, a noble cascade falling 280 feet.
Another tributary of the lake is the Metabetchouan River, at the mouth
of which is a hotel, Poole's, with room for a limited number. This house
is the headquarters of the Fish and Game Club, of Springfield, Mass.,
and may be reached by steamer from Roberval, or from Chambord Junction, Lake St. John, distant five miles. At this latter point another
small hotel has lately been erected.
It would be difficult to imagine a more attractive centre for the canoer
and fisherman than this broad lake, with its hundreds of miles of tributary rivers, extending far into a great unknown land, of which present
description amounts to little more than mere guesswork. With his
skilled Indian guides and light canoe the explorer can follow the streams
at will, penetrating to the lonely haunts of big game in regions rarely,
if ever, visited by a white man, travelling for day after day upon streams
swarming with trout, and finding sport unlimited, and countless charming
subjects for brush, pencil, or camera, until the fascinating trip is ended.
In Lake St. John and several of the rivers are the wonderful
ouananiche. Marvellous tales have been told of them; and, while writers
disagree in details, especially as regards their size, all are unanimous in
declaring that the ouananiche is1 one of the gamest, strongest, and hardest
fighting fish that ever tested skill and tackle. You may read surprising
stories of their weight; but, if you get fast to one of five pounds or over,
you can rest satisfied that you are in luck indeed, and you will speedily
find five pounds of ouananiche are amply sufficient to have on your tackle
at one time. Their strength and agility are simply astounding; they dart
hither and thither with electric rushes, and leap wildly into the air in a
fashion calculated to rattle the coolest hand with a rod, e'en though he NORTH SHORE OF ST. LAWRENCE AND LAKE ST. JOHN.
be an old salmon fisher; and when the long, hard fight is done and the
victim safely landed, it is a prize of which any one is justified in feeling
proud.
The outlet of Lake St. John is in the Grande Decharge and Petite
Decharge, which finally unite and form the great Saguenay River. The
swirling current of the Grande Decharge rushes down furiously, bearing
great patches of foam, which turn and evolute here and there in unceasing
motion. Among these the ouananiche feed, and in a good day you may
see an endless succession of broad tails showing and disappearing as the
i fish rise after their prey. Hook one, and your work is cut out for you.
He will in all likelihood give you an exhibition of high and lofty tumbling
that you will never forget, and possibly will leap bodily into the canoe or
over it (they have done both repeatedly), and tax your utmost skill and
patience ere he yields. A salmon cast with Jock Scott, Curtis, or Silver
Doctor flies is the most effective as a rule, though at low water smaller
flies and finer tackle must be used.    Heavier fish may be taken by trolling
„on the lake, but a four or five-pounder is stronger than a salmon of much
greater weight, and will afford better sport. A visit to Lake St. John
and an experience of the powers of this bright-mailed acrobat are sure to
ever after rank among the angler's most treasured memories.
.Perhaps the greatest pleasure connected with a trip to Lake St. John
would be, when leaving, to hire canoes and guides and descend the
Saguenay to Chicoutimi, and from thence by steamer back to Quebec.
This trip will reveal scenery that is famous in America; and, while it is
hard, and the way marked with several wild rapids, they can usually be
run safely enough, and always portaged, of course; and I know no more
tempting adventure for the true canoeman than the glorious rush down
the rapid stream in a staunch canoe, with experienced men to guide the
craft. You don't take your life in your hands, but simply make a thrilling
dash amid snowy foam and scattering spray, — safe enough with skillful
hands at the paddles, but not otherwise.
Between the city of Quebec and Lake St. John the Quebec & Lake
St. John Railway traverses a country of wild beauty, the route leading,
amid the picturesque Laurentian Mountains, crossing several streams,
and touching upon some fine lakes noted for the abundance and large
size of the trout found in them. Quite a number of these lakes are
controlled by fishing clubs, but two of the largest, Lac Edouard and
Lake Kiskissink, have been leased by the railway company, and
are open TO all visitors. Each contains plenty of big trout, and are
among the most beautiful scenery of all the attractive district. Upon the
shore of Lac Edouard, and but a few yards from the railway, is a comfortable hotel, the Laurentides House, where fishermen can obtain camp
outfits, guides, canoes, skiffs, etc., at reasonable rates. Two small
steamers ply upon Lac Edouard, and may be utilized for all sorts of
delightful excursions upon the lake, or as means of easily reaching
camping-grounds close to the shadowy haunts of trout. A summer
vacation can be very pleasantly spent in visiting these waters, and killing
brilliantly colored trout weighing as high as five pounds. Grouse are
also fairly plentiful along the line, and it is also an excellent country for.
caribou after winter fairly sets in. LAKE MEGANTIC AND MOOSEHEAD LAKE.
AMONG all the countless waters and shooting grounds reached
by the Canadian Pacific Railway, few can offer more varied
attractions to the sportsman than these two famous lakes, and
the lesser lakes, streams, and ponds surrounding them, unless, indeed,
we seek the north shore of Lake Superior or the Canadian Northwest.
Those who have not the time to spare for a journey to Western Canada
can find shooting and fishing enough to satisfy them by visiting these
grand waters and testing the portions of the Province of Quebec and the
State of Maine adjacent to them. The fame of the Rangeley Lakes of
Maine is known to every reader of sporting literature, and all that has
been written of them will apply equally well to this territory.
Nor is it necessary to undertake a long and tiresome journey to reach
this attractive region.    The opening of the Canadian Pacific Railway's
" Short Line " from Montreal to the Maritime
Provinces renders it easy
of access, and the traveller
who makes Montreal his
initial point for this trip
will find solid comfort all
the way, and only a short
run by rail before the Mecca
of his pilgrimage is gained.
Both Megantic and
Moosehead can boast of
beautiful surroundings in
the fullest sense of the term, and both are
capital points for those contemplating a
holiday with canoe and camera. There
is no fear of the changeful panorama of
water and island, mountain and forest, growing monotonous, or of the
voyageur finding himself, after a week's explorations, sighing for fresh
fields. The manifold interesting features of these magnificent forest
jewels are of the kind that wear well, and a man might cruise about for
several months, and then go away with many attractive points yet un-
visited. But while the lover of the silent craft and the camera can find
abundant opportunities for gratifying his taste, it is to the angler and
sportsman that this region specially appeals.
This is the chosen' " stamping-ground " of moose, caribou, and deer,
and he must needs be a poor hand at shooting who cannot kill enough
big game to satisfy any one worthy of the name of sportsman. But it
must not be imagined that the animals mentioned can be slaughtered at
will, particularly moose and caribou. A hunter of any experience will
know better than this, and the novice will learn that even in this favored
locality they do not stand around like cattle in a barnyard to be "potted"
by any one able to pull a trigger. But even a green hand should be able
to readily secure a deer, if aided by an experienced guide; for the
common deer is simply abundant, and residents think no more of the
capture of one than a sportsman in one of the over-hunted covers thinks
(8) LAKE MEGANTIC AND MOOSEHEAD LAKE.
of bagging a ruffed grouse. Even the tyro, therefore, can safely depend
upon securing a trophy to prove his prowess to his friends at home, and
he may also get a shot at a moose or caribou, and perhaps kill either,
or both, if his nerve fails not — which it is very apt to do. Speaking of
moose and caribou as being plentiful is not to be taken in the same sense
as when the term is applied to deer; but you can go to these grounds
satisfied that you have a most promising chance of seeing both ere your
holiday is done, with a certainty of getting deer if you can handle a rifle
at all, and killing plenty of ruffed grouse, and perhaps having a crack at
a black bear by way of variety. The favorite method of hunting at Lake
Megantic is "jacking" (or fire-hunting) upon the water-courses and bogs.
It is a murderous method, maybe, but at the same time very fascinating,
to go noiselessly gliding along in a canoe through the darkness of night,
until the jack-light is reflected by the glowing eyeballs of some feeding
deer, or moose, or_ caribou, that has paused in his repast to study the
wonderful phenomenon before him. This method is deadly with a
vengeance; and, as frequently from three to five deer will be " shined "
in a single night, game will almost certainly be secured. Still-hunting
. can, of course, be followed here, as everywhere else, with good result.
There is also capital duck shooting in the fall.
Lake Megantic is the largest body of water in the Canadian territory
adjacent to Maine, being twelve miles in length by from one to four
miles broad. Its shores are rugged and exceedingly picturesque, and
.deeply indented with inlets and bays, the coast line measuring some
forty odd miles. Its principal feeders are the Lower Spider and Arnold
Rivers, also the Annance, Victoria, and Sandy Rivers, and numerous
lesser streams, and its outlet is the Chaudiere River, which leaves the
.lake at the bay of the same name, within ioo yards or so of the Canadian
Pacific Railway station at Megantic, and empties into the St. Lawrence
near Quebec. There are several fairly good hotels in the village, and
experienced guides can be secured there at moderate charges. The best
localities for moose, caribou, and deer are Annance Bog, near the mouth
of Annance River, — which flows in at the head of the lake, — and up
the stream from its outlet for a couple of miles, the shores and bog being
favorite feeding grounds. The Annance is navigable by skiff or canoe as
far as mentioned. Other good bogs and points for game will be known
to the guides and reached under their directions.
Fishing in Megantic is variable, as is always the case on such large
waters. On a good day heavy strings will be taken, big lake trout scaling
as high as twenty-five pounds being caught on the trolls during June and
September. In the bays and inlets speckled trout rise readily to the fly,
and every stream emptying into the lake is plentifully stocked with them,
the fish running to fair size. On Chaudiere Bay, Moose Bay, the Victoria
and Annance Rivers, and all the lesser streams and inlets, the brook-
trout fishing is Ai, and there is no difficulty in taking fine strings of good
ones.
Separated from Lake Megantic by a "carry" of a trifle less than
three-quarters of a mile is the famous " Macannamac," or Spider Lake,
"ranking next in size to Megantic. This lovely water, lying 3000 feet
above the sea-level and sleeping amid rugged mountains, has been aptly
dubbed "the Geneva of Canada." Upon its shore is the club-house of
the Megantic Fish and Game Club, which corporation controls it and a
fine territory with similar facilities for sport to that just described.
A short run by rail from Megantic over the Boundary Mountains, 10 FISHING AND SHOOTING.
which divide the Province of Quebec from the State of Maine, enables
travellers by the " Short Line " to reach one of Maine's most lovely sections, and also one of the best for sport; one of the most promising points
for ruffed grouse and red deer being Beattie Station. Shortly after
crossing the international boundary the headwaters of the Moose River
appear, the line following the stream and its chain of lakes closely until
the shore of Moosehead Lake is reached, and finally the Canadian
Pacific Railway station and town of Greenville.
The headwaters and chain of lakes of the Moose River, in addition to
being perfect gems in their way for natural beauty, are first-rate for
speckled trout, the fish running to good size, and quite plentiful enough
to keep the rod busy. An exploration of this chain of waters would
certainly richly repay the labor, and furnish all the essentials for a
thoroughly enjoyable outing. Lakes and river, all included, extend for
about twenty-five miles before the current reaches Moosehead Lake, the
scenery being very pretty every yard of the way, and the greater portion
of the water furnishing good fishing. The variety and quantity of game
to be found at the several points about these lakes and kindred waters,
and others easily reached from Greenville station, are about the same as
at Megantic.
A glance at a map will show why this part of Maine is such a noted
game and fish country. Lakes and ponds and small streams fairly net
the whole region, offering grand facilities for the. trout fisher; and, as
they thread the very strongholds of moose, caribou, bear, and deer, the
lover of the rifle can readily guess what fine opportunities are offered for
the capture of one or all of the animals named. In addition, quite a
number of duck and other game can be found, and in such splendid
covers as those shaggy woods ruffed grouse of course abound.
To give a separate description of the different waters would require a
book much larger than this. Their name is legion, and the great majority
of them are well stocked with trout, and a few with land-locked salmon.
Reliable guides, necessaries for a camping party, and information concerning the best points for sport can be obtained at Greenville. Spencer,
Indian, Squaw, Wilson, and Roach Ponds, Brassau Lake, and all the
little streams that feed Moosehead, are noted for trout, and the guides
can pilot you to many others. Those preferring to make their headquarters at Greenville will find good accommodations in the large, new
hotel upon the shore; plenty of boats, and ample means of enjoyment;
and there are many steamers on the lake to take the visitor where he
wills.
Moosehead Lake is forty miles long by from two to fifteen wide, with
many islands, large and small; and its shores, for wild beauty, compare
well with the finest of its Canadian or American sisters. The surrounding hills are lofty and covered with dense forests; and here and there a
towering mountain rears high above the tangle of rolling woods, forming
pictures of which the eye never wearies. Grandest of all is Mount
Kineo, at the base of which is the Kineo House, a commodious summer
hotel with 250 rooms, and conducted in first-class style. Its appearance
reminds one of the popular resorts of the sea-coast, and it is the
rendezvous for a small army of tourists during the season. Close beside
it is a handsome club-house, owned by American gentlemen who come
each season for the fishing. A large general store is close at hand,
where camp supplies, etc., may be purchased, and there are plenty of
competent guides and good canoes and skiffs  available.   The  above
«L LAKE MEGANTIC AND MOOSEHEAD  LAKE.
11
brief mention does not include one-third of the trout waters to which the
guides will show the w£y. A particularly inviting trip by canoe can be
made by leaving Moosehead Lake by the " north carry," portaging over
to the West Branch of the Penobscot River, and thence down stream,
with good fishing, varied scenery (including the celebrated Mount
Katahdin, a mass of granite a mile high), and a dash of adventure to
lend an additional charm to the cruise. The East Branch of the Penobscot, the Allagash, St. John, and Aroostook are also reached by following
the West Branch to Lake Chesumcook and thence north. Particulars of
these routes may be obtained from the guides, or by consulting Steele's
I Paddle and Portage " and " Canoe and Camera," which contain maps
of the region and clever descriptions of trips by that accomplished
canoist, and " Hubbard's Guide to Moosehead Lake and Northern
Maine," which covers the entire "pond region." The outlet of Moosehead Lake is distant from Greenville about twelve miles, and is the
beginning of the Kennebec River. There is a comfortable hotel there, at
Moosehead Station, and the fishing, close at hand, is equal to many of
the more remote localities. By going down stream in canoes, Indian
Pond and other crack trout pools are reached, and close to the river there
will be found plenty of game. From this brief description it may be
learned that the Megantic and Moosehead regions are fit for the careful
attention of veterans of rod and gun; and a trial of them will speedily
convince any one that the above statement falls short of the reality
instead of over-drawing the picture.
Following the Canadian Pacific Railway's " Short Line" beyond
Greenville, the route traverses for some considerable distance a similar
country to that which has already been referred to; through favorite
haunts of forest game, and passing many lakes, and crossing streams that
are full of gamy trout. Lake Onaway, or " Ship Pond," as it is also
called, and Schoodic Lake are among these, and two more beautiful
waters cannot be wished by those preferring to camp beyond the bustle
of the busy haunts of men. By this line, which shortens the journey
from Montreal to the Maritime Provinces by nearly 300 miles, several of
the world-famous salmon rivers of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia are
easily reached, and the advantages it offers will be appreciated by sportsmen of all degrees.
'what did you say that fish weighed?" NEW   BRUNSWICK.
NEARLY every sporting writer of any prominence has had more or
less to say of sport with rifle, gun, or rod, or holidays with canoe
and canvas, upon one or other of the many beautiful lakes and
streams of this favored province. The bare mention of New Brunswick
at once calls up visions of "calling"'or "creeping" moose; of adventures with black bear; of salmon pools and struggles with hard-fighting
fish ; of trout and heavy creels; of grouse and water fowl,— in fine, of
sport not to be excelled in any of the other provinces of the country.
New Brunswick is by no means a travel-worn country, nor are the I
sporting possibilities being exhausted. Great tracts of it are rough lands
heavily forested and accessible with any degree of comfort only by water,
and luckily these wafer-routes are well stocked with fish. Of course the
salmon rivers of any note are principally in private hands, but the number of lakes and trout streams where the wealthy salmon-fisher has no
control are also quite numerous enough and good enough for all humbler-
visitors.
Moose, caribou, deer, bear, and several varieties of fur-bearing
animals, with grouse, water-fowl, etc., are comprised in the game list,
and some of the best localities for them are traversed by what was
formerly called the New Brunswick Railway, but which is now embodied
in the Canadian Pacific system. This line, or system of lines, affords
direct access from McAdam Junction, at the international boundary, to
St. Stephen, St. Andrews, St. John, Frederitton, Havelock, Aroostook,
Edmundston, and New Brunswick points between these centres, and also
to Presque Isle and Houlton in Maine. Between the extreme northern
inland point, Edinundston, and St. John City on the Bay of Fundy, lies
a broad expanse of varied country netted with waters and well forested,
and offering many inducements to shooting, fishing, or camping parties.
Owing to the ease with which a number of attractive lakes and streams
may be reached, this territory especially appeals to those who will begin
a sporting trip from points in New England, but it is also well worth the
attention of others, though living at greater distances.
One of the most beautiful resorts of the coast is St. Andrews, situated
on Passamaquoddy Bay, which, in addition to being a charming and
healthful spot where one can spend a pleasant holiday, offers excellent
fishing in both salt and fresh water. Plenty of fishing craft are available
in the harbor, and visitors may have a deal of fun hauling out the hard-
pulling denizens of Passamaquoddy Bay, or in deep-sea fishing outside in •
Fundy or the Atlantic. For work with the rod or trolls a number of
lakes and streams, well stocked with land-locked salmon, togue, and trout,
are within easy reach. Among these are the Chamcook Lakes (three in
number), Limeburner, Bartlett's, Stein's, Snow-shoe, Welsh, Cram,
Turner's, McCullough's, and Creasy Lakes, and the Digdequash River,
and several others of minor importance. Indian guides and canoes may
be hired at the Indian village near the -park at St. Andrews.
Between McAdam Junction and St. John are several good waters,
among the best being Harvey Lake, half a mile from Harvey Station;
South Oromocto, Long and Victoria Lakes, reached from  Gaspereaux
(12) Station, and the waters close to Welsford Station. St. John is also on
the route to the Miramichi, Nepisiquit, Metapedise, and Restigouche
Rivers. In the immediate vicinity of Canterbury good fishing and shooting can be had, the best' water being Skiff Lake, a few miles west.
Woodstock, on the St. John River, is a convenient point for canoeing.
The southwest branch of the Miramichi is* a capital water, and to reach
it the angler should go to the town of Kent, and thence team to the
Forks, where guides with boats or canoes are available.
A river, now pretty well known, but none the worse on that account,
is the Tobique, which enters the St. John close to Andover. At the.
confluence of the rivers is situated a village of Abenaquis Indians, who
make reliable guides, and will show the way to camp sites, salmon pools,
and the haunts of trout. The scenery of the Tobique is very fine, and
every day of a week's or month's holiday spent upon it should prove
most enjoyable. The river is a noted spawning place for salmon, and in
certain reaches of it great strings of trout can be killed. About forty
miles from its mouth is the Nictau, or Forks, where three rivers meet
and form an ideal "pool," and one of the surest points for salmon.
Above this pool the Campbell River, the right-hand branch, offers the
best salmon fishing, while the Nictau, or left-hand branch, contains
plenty of trout.
A short distance north of Andover is Aroostook Junction, from which
a branch line extends to Northern Aroostook, Me., via Fort Fairfield,
Caribou, and Presque Isle. A number of very good waters intersect the
country contiguous to these places, and each of the towns named has
plenty of hotel accommodation.
From Caribou the Eagle or Fish River Lakes may be conveniently
reached. The northern terminus of the railway is Edmundston, situated
about the centre of a choice fishing district. Among the best waters are
the Upper St. John, the Green and Madawaska Rivers, and the Temis-
couta and Squatook Lakes. The Eagle or Fish River Lakes, named as
being accessible from Caribou, Me., may also be reached from Edmundston. A trip that has been praised very highly by «ien competent to
judge is as follows : first, up the Madawaska for fifteen miles to Griffins ;
then " carry " to Mud Lake, thence via Beardsley Brook to the Squatook
Lakes and River, and from there go by way of the Toledi, Temiscouta,
and Madawaska back to Edmundston. Gun, rod, and camera may all be
used to advantage along this route, for the sport to be obtained is good
in the genuine meaning of that term, and the scenery picturesque in the
extreme. THE   RIDEAU   LAKES.
OF a certainty, those who have tested the fishing on the Rideau and
the " Drowned Lands " require no recommendation to induce
them to make a second trial. By the construction of the Rideau
Canal, a watery highway 125 miles long, extending from the capital city
of Ottawa to the historic city of Kingston, was opened, and this route
offers manifold inducements to those who love to spend a holiday
canoeing and fishing, during the summer months, or fishing and shooting
in the early fall.
When the canal was constructed the course of the Rideau River was
naturally followed, and the stream utilized as far as possible; and when
ilMUMhtM
ruffed grouse.
the several locks were completed, and the waters restrained from flowing
through their natural outlet, great tracts of low-lying woodland and
marshy spots were deeply flooded, forming what are now known as the
" Drowned Lands." The Rideau was always a fine bass water, and under
the altered conditions it is not surprising that it not only held its own,
but rapidly improved, and, as the years- passed and the flooded country
ran wild, the entire aspect changed: broad marshes were formed, overgrown with wild rice and rushes, attracting thousands of duck and other ,
water fowl. There is nothing, except an occasional lock, to suggest
to the voyager that he is upon anything but a great natural water highway, a broad stream widening every now and again into lakes of greater
or less extent, with long stretches of rushes and beds of rice, weeds, and
lily-pads, such as are loved by duck and fish.    The Rideau is reached
(14) THE RIDEAU LAKES.
15
either at Ottawa, Smith's Falls, or Kingston, and a cruise of its entire
length by canoe will be found thoroughly enjoyable. Should the latter
city be selected as the starting point, tourists from east or west are best
conveyed thither by the fine steamer's that ply up and down upon the St.
Lawrence and- Lake Ontario; for that trip by water is rightfully considered one of the most attractive available. If Ottawa or Smith's Falls
be chosen, either is reached from east or west direct by the Canadian
Pacific Railway; and no matter whether you go by steamer or rail, your
canoe, etc., will be carried with you and carefully looked after. Furthermore, there are acres and acres of ground that, unless their appearance is very deceptive, should be good spots for woodcock; and a
spaniel might prove a most useful companion in working up cock and
grouse, the latter being fairly plentiful at many points, which the practised
hand will no doubt locate by the appearance of the cover.
While making this trip by canoe you will pass many camps upon the
shores, and meet many holiday-makers who are, like yourself, finding
healthy recreation in tracing out this pleasant route.
By far the greater portion of the way is exceedingly pretty. A camp
can be pitched almost anywhere; should you desire to stretch your legs
a bit, you can land where you will. The fishing is excellent, as is the
shooting, early in the fall. The route is easily reached and easily
traversed, there being no hardship connected with it. Flies are not
troublesome; and for those who prefer to spend their holiday among
pretty surroundings, and at the same time remain within reach of civilization, the Rideau offers inducements of a very high order. The entire
trip is inexpensive, and has been made in a week; but that, of course,
necessitated hard work at the paddles. A couple of weeks would do it
nicely; and if the time is extended a week longer it will not be spent in
vain. SHARBOT  LAKE.
THIS famous lake is situated directly on the line of the Canadian
Pacific Railway, being about 166 miles distant from Montreal,
easily reached from Ottawa, and 169 miles from Toronto. It
would be a difficult matter to find a more suitable or beautiful spot for
camping, or a resort with such natural advantages where better sport
with rod and gun can be enjoyed. For picturesque scenery and fine
water Sharbot Lake will stand comparison with any in Ontario; and
either upon the shores or the many pretty islands that dot its surface are
beautiful camp sites for all comers. Some of the islands are already in
private hands, and are visited each summer by their owners, who bring
their families for change and amusement during the heated term.
The total number who visit this spot each season is not so very great,
but admirers of Sharbot are increasing year after year, as its advantages
are becoming better known; and there is no reason why it should not
steadily progress in popularity for many years to come. The attractions
are the same as usually characterize Canadian lakes — forested shores ;
beautiful rocky islands, large and small, and clear cold water well stocked
with good fish.
Those who.wet a line in Sharbot invariably depart content, for heavy
strings are to be relied on. The list of fishes that may be taken there
are black and rock bass, pike, and a few lunge, though the latter are
seldom killed. The black bass, as might be expected, afford the finest
sport; and, to show that they attain a great size, it maybe mentioned
that one of the heaviest small-mouthed black bass on record was taken
there. Trolling is a standard method, but a good hand with a rod can
have the pleasure of killing fine fish with the fly, with worms or minnow
bait, the latter being somewhat difficult to procure, but very deadly if
available. Those who understand the ways of crayfish can find the
sharp-nipping, "retrograde" fellows under stones and other shelter; and
it is seldom that a black or rock bass is able to resist one of these tempting morsels, if properly placed on the hook.
A very efficient method is to use a good-sized hook, and, having
secured the crayfish, insert the barb into the mouth and push the hook
along until the point is well clear of the tail of the bait. The crayfish is
of course killed as dead as ditch-water, but that matters not at all. The
curve of the hook rounds him to a natural shape, and if you send him
down rapidly, he will represent exactly the backward rush of the live
"nipper " going to the rocks for shelter; and, if there are bass about, he
will be promptly seized, even when live minnows and artificial baits prove
useless. " It's a mighty captivatin' dainty," as a friend once roared out
on his first trial of one rigged for him, after he had changed from minnow
to worm, and spoon, and artificial lures all in vain; for the crayfish had
hardly sunk five feet in the clear water ere a huge bass darted from
among the rocks and gathered it in, and gave him a set-to that he never
forgot. When fishing with crayfish, care should be taken never to jerk
them upward unless actually striking a fish, for they are easily broken.
By tender handling two fish may be taken with the same bait, and sometimes  three or even four — a matter well worth attention with such
(16) SHARBOT LAKE.
17
difficult lures to secure. Trolling with bass spoons should always insure
a fine string at Sharbot, and artificial baits might be tried with advantage.
A fair catch would run from a dozen good fish up to three times that
number for a morning's work — quite enough to repay one's exertions;
and the chance of landing an extra big one always maintains the interest*
There is hotel'accommodation for a limited number, and a.few boats,
right on the spot. Board will cost about $i per day, and a boat the
same, with special rates for each by the week; and $i a day will secure
a good man. Flies are not so bad at Sharbot as upon many other good
waters, and trouble the angler but little after June 15, and. disappear
altogether about two weeks later.
This lake is a noted resort for duck in the fall, being one of the best
in that part of the country. Many handsome bags have been made there,
running as high as fifty birds in a day to one gun. The great majority
of these duck are what are styled " fall duck," that breed farther north,
and merely rest a week or so at the lake while upon their southerly migration. It is therefore impossible to set an exact time for a visit, as
much depends upon the weather; but the month of October should be
about right. Earlier in the season a number are sometimes killed, but it
is generally uncertain work. THE    RIVER    TRENT    AND    ADJACENT   WATERS,   AND
PETERBORO.
THIS is a region as yet comparatively little known to the majority
of tourist-sportsmen and anglers ; yet it is one of the best available,
especially for those who make Toronto their initial point. Starting
from Toronto, per Canadian Pacific Railway, Havelock Station is reached
within four hours, and the cost of a return ticket is only a trifle over $5,
or in other words, you can leave Toronto in the morning and be busy
with the black bass and lunge early in the afternoon, a feature that should
bear due weight with those who have only a few days at their disposal.
Havelock, distant 100 miles from Toronto, is the best point to select as
headquarters, if a trial of the Trent is decided upon; and the angler or
sportsman can take the trip, satisfied that, unless he is one of those
unfortunate beings who seem specially selected as the victim of hard
luck, he will be richly rewarded for his trouble. Close, to Havelock
Station there is a comfortable hotel where visitors can make themselves
perfectly at home, and also pick up valuable pointers as to the best
methods for circumventing the big lunge and bass that claim the Trent
as their home. Hastings' Bridge is only three miles distant from the
hotel, and you can secure conveyances at the latter place and be driven
over, and are then right on the spot. Boats and guides can be secured
at the bridge at very cheap rates, and to many the most enjoyable method
is to go into camp at one or other of the desirable sites along the stream.
Those who do not fancy spending a holiday under canvas can find
excellent accommodation in houses close at hand. From the 15th of
June until the end of the open season the lunge and black bass fishing is
Ai, except on an odd day now and again, such as will be experienced
upon any water. Above the bridge, towards the town of Hastings,
trolling .for lunge will give satisfactory results, for the " fresh water
sharks " are very numerous, and bite freely at either spoon or live minnow
or chub, and the catch will be varied with heavy black bass. The right-
hand channel at the island, going down stream, and below the island for
some two miles to the government boom, are famous reaches for bass and
lunge. Forty bass, running from a pound to five times that weight, have
been killed by a single rod in an afternoon with minnow bait; and lunge,
scaling all the way from five to twenty or thirty pounds, have been taken,
the smaller fish being plentiful. If you want to have genuine fun with
a big fellow, just troll for lunge at this point, using a stout rod and
suitable tackle, and for a surety you will have a tussle now and then that
will quicken your circulation vastly, or you are no true lover of the gentle
pastime. Fine strings of bass can also be taken by still-fishing all along
the river, between Hastings' Bridge and Healy Falls and Rapids, a
distance of about five miles. The stream varies in width from 100 yards
to a quarter of a mile, and here and there expands into broad bays; and
at many points there are rocky shoals and gravel beds, where, as the bass
fisher will guess, many fine fish are sure to be.
But the spot of spots for small-mouthed black bass is below the falls.
The stream plunges down fully forty feet over a rocky ledge some 100
(18) RIVER TRENT AND ADJACENT WATERS, AND PETERBORO.       19
yards wide, and among the deep pools below is where the bass are found
in all their glory.
No chicken-hearted, soft fish these, but stout, voracious fellows, bred
in the cold, fast water, and game to fight for liberty to the last kick. On
proper tackle a two-pourider, helped by the strong current, will afford as
much sport as a fish of twice the weight in a lake or sluggish stream, and
when a real heavy one takes hold (and you will hook them up to and over
four pounds), look out for squalls. He will tax your nerve and skill to
the utmost, for it is no tyro at the art that can play one of these dusky
acrobats to his death under such conditions. The writer well remembers
■ one glorious day, when thirty-eight grand fish were killed on the pools
below the falls and farther down stream during an afternoon. The bait
was live minnow on that occasion, and there is no reason for doubting
that more could have been taken, for only a moderate amount of work
was done. Crayfish, worms, and any of the good artificial baits should
prove deadly, especially the " phantom," in such rapid water, and a short
distance down stream fine records have been made with the fly.
About a mile and a half below Healy Falls the Trent runs into Crow
Bay, a noted spot for both lunge and bass, and one that is almost certain
to well reward a trial.
Another excellent point on the Trent is Campbellford, twelve miles
from Havelock Station. The leading sportman of the town is " Tom "
Blute, proprietor of as comfortable a hostelry as wandering Nimrod or
angler ever put up at. Up and down stream from Campbellford a rod
can be kept busy all day long, and the fly fishing is particularly good.
Blute is a sportsman of long and varied experience, knows every foot of
the country, and is an extremely obliging host, and, moreover, a right
good companion upon a jaunt. All that is necessary is to write him in
advance, and a conveyance will be sent to meet you at Havelock, and no
further trouble need be taken, for he will attend to everything and tell
you just where to go.
Any one going to Havelock might as well write in advance to insure
boats and conveyance, in order that no time may be lost in getting to
work. By following this course a goodly string should be taken ere
night falls on the first day's outing.
At times ducks are fairly numerous along the river ; and if the fishing
trip is planned during the open season for water fowl, the breechloader
should be taken along, as, even if the ducks-fail, there are plenty of
grouse close at hand in the woods.
One of the brightest towns of the more important centres of Canada
is Peterboro,. which may be considered the birth-place of the modern
canoe. It is a convenient point from which to reach some fine lakes
where good bass and lunge fishing can be had during June, July, August,
and September. Rice Lake, distant twelve miles, is reached by steamer,
and is an admirable point for camping. Chemong Lake is seven miles
distant-by rail, and Katachawanuck, nine miles. Live minnow bait will
prove deadly with lunge and bass ; the fishing is generally excellent, and
a couple of weeks may be pleasantly spent with rod and canoe at trifling,
expense. Fairly good duck and grouse shooting can be had, but deer
must be sought at distant points. THE CHAIN OF LAKES NORTH OF THE TRENT.
RANGING northward of Havelock is a region of forest, lake, and
stream, which combines picturesque scenery with good territory
for fish and game. A far-reaching chain of beautiful lakes extends
through the wild country, all linked together by small streams navigable
by canoes, excepting in a few cases, where portages have to be made..
This chain of lakes offers great inducements to canoeing and camping
parties, and one can go with canoe and camera and find countless combinations of lovely and rugged scenery too numerous for even bare
mention; or if rod and gun are also taken, plenty of occupation will be
found for all.
In  olden days this silver pathway of waters was a favorite canoe
route for Indian hunters and trappers; for game, great and small, was
plentiful, and many a noble buck, huge bear, and cunning beaver has
fallen a victim to the arts of man on these woodland waters. Nor has
the blood of beasts alone dyed the leaves and mosses under foot. The
now silent woods have reechoed with the war-whoops of fighting savages,
and where now one hears but the whir of the rising grouse, or the rustle
of the deer in the thicket, the flint-headed arrow has sung upon its
murderous errand, and the tomahawk and knife settled deadly disputes.
Long ago, by this very water route, stealing noiselessly from lake to
lake and onward down the Trent, came the dusky braves of Champlain,
the fierce Huron warriors, upon their deadly raid into the stronghold of.
the rival Iroquois. Hair was raised in those "good old times," and war
dances perhaps took place upon the very site of your camp, but only
romantic memories of them are left for you. Your hair will stay flat to
your scalp, unless peradventure you do as the writer did once — i.e., walk
thoughtlessly around a big rock and come face to face with a big, old he-
(20)
v^s CHAIN OF LAKES NORTH OF THE TRENT.
21
bear, black as a barrel of tar and seventeen times as ugly. Then hair
was lifted, and there was a wild war-dance and a single-barrelled whooping that made the leaves fall, but the dance led too straight and too
rapidly for camp for minute details. Scientists aver that the black bear
never attacks man, but when a man is only armed with a cedar paddle
his confidence in the statements of scientists has its limits. Black bears
certainly never attacked me — they never had time ! Famous this region
was for game and fish in the past; and though, of course, it is not now
what it was, still there is quite enough for any ordinary purpose. The
principal waters of the chain are Round Lake, Belmont, Deer, Oakley,
Twin, Sandy, Jack, Cushamogabog, Tongonong, White, Gull, and Eagle
Lake. Lunge and black bass fishing in Round Lake is good, worm and
minnow bait giving satisfactory results, the sport being best after the ist
of July. There are several settlers' houses on the south shore, where
lodging can be secured and a few boats are available. Ducks are
plentiful, especially wood-duck, early in the season; deer are fairly
numerous and grouse abundant in the woods, and in many of the swales
quite a number of woodcock can be found.
Belmont Lake, a few miles east of Round Lake, is best reached from
Blairton Station, being only a few hundred yards from the hotel. There
are a few boats available at Blairton, and guides can also be secured
there at smali expense. The fishing is about the same as already
described, and, in fact, the general characteristics of all these waters are
so similar as to render separate description useless. The more northern
lakes can be reached by driving over the usual style of lumber road, and,
though there are no regular hotels, sportsmen can put up at the log-
houses where the teamsters hauling supplies to the lumber camps find
accommodation, and be fully as comfortable as at the average country
hotel. Ruffed grouse, wood-duck, and hare are to be found almost
anywhere, and there are plenty of deer and not a few bear, while the
fishing is something to be long remembered. A few judicious inquiries
at either Havelock or Blairton Stations will elicit all required information. THE   COVERS   AND   WATERS   OF   WESTERN
ONTARIO.
WESTWARD from London, Ont., the extension of the Canadian
Pacific Railway connects that city with the Detroit River, and
traverses well-known shooting grounds. Years ago it was a
famous country fpr deer, bear, wild turkey, grouse, quail, etc.; but the
larger game has been completely killed off at almost every point, and,
while a few deer yet inhabit the forest lands of the more sparsely settled
counties of the extreme western end of the prowince, there are hardly
sufficient of them to warrant a trial of any but those woods lying between
Lakes St. Clair and Erie, and even then a stranger would have but little
chance of success. Here and there, in the sixty or more miles of country
between the city of London and the town of Chatham, wild turkey are
yet to be found, but they are nowhere very plentiful, though perhaps
they are more numerous at present than usual, owing to the close season
of three years which recently expired. In the immediate vicinity of
North Bothwell and North Thamesville Stations are large tracts of
heavily wooded country, intersected with marshes, and many turkey are
yet to be found there.    In this section and in the country about the town
of Dresden, and
again   west   of
Chatham in the
county  of   Essex,    a   sportsman
stands  a   good
chance of securing
some of these splendid birds.
But the game to
^^r~,~ be depended
||pl upon   com-
| prises quail,
I grouse,wood-
cock,   rabbits,   and   a
great variety
ffgfff»sSi^?S^^^3s^^^^^^^^^s^rr.-^j^r^^^gj     § of     water
fowl, abounding in the western marshes. The clearing of farms and cultivation of
vast tracts of country, while it sounded the death-knell of all the larger
game, in nowise affected the quail and rabbits, and the grouse but little.
Indeed, if it had not been that increased population meant a corresponding increase in the number of guns, there would be more birds
than ever in the covers, as the additional acreage under crops only
means an increase of their food supply. Quail abound in all the west-'
em counties, and only in the western portion of Ontario are these
gamest of all game birds found in Canadian territory in sufficient numbers I
to afford sport.
They are wonderfully prolific, and, though they are subjected to far
(22) COVERS AND WATERS  OF WESTERN ONTARIO.
23
too much shooting, fine sport can be had with them over good dogs, and
excellent bags made,. providing one can hold straight and pull quick.
From ten ro as high as thirty or more birds can be killed in a day's work
in the covers of Kent and Essex Counties.    Very fair sport can be had
at almost any point more than thirty miles west of London, the sportsman
also finding a few ruffed grouse, woodcock, and a number  of rabbits
while penetrating the covers in pursuit of a bevy of quail he has flushed,
and in the wilder portions he may chance upon a wild turkey.   Plenty of
birds can be found within comfortable driving distance of Chatham, say
eight or ten miles;  and one can either put up at a country hotel along the
main roads, or find quarters at one or other of the farm houses scattered
all over the land.   During the past two seasons important " Field Trials "
have been held near Chatham, and birds were so plentiful that the trials
were decided without much trouble, and there is every likelihood of the
same grounds being used for years to come.   At present the law forbids
the sale of quail killed in Ontario, and this measure will insure a rapid
increase in their numbers.    From Chatham the Erie & Huron Railway
offers facilities  for  reaching the town of
Blenheim, close to Rondeau  Harbor and
Lake Erie, or, in the other direction, the towns of Dresden
and Wallaceburg, on the line,
and both well known resorts
for sportsmen.   Rondeau Harbor was formerly one of the
best  points  for   duck in the
country, but too much shooting has
well-nigh ruined it; and, though on
good day heavy bags can yet be made, the
fowl are wild, and though thousands may be
seen, but few are killed.    There  are, however, plenty of quail in  the
neighborhood; here and there ruffed grouse, and in the wet woodlands
of the north shore quite a few woodcock early in the season.   Dresden
or Wallaceburg are better points for all-round shooting.   The fishing
in the Eau, from its size, is variable; but the writer has taken forty
odd black bass and pickerel, pike, etc., in a day, and one always stands a
chance of hooking a big lunge.    During the month of May there is excellent plover and curlew shooting on the bars and beaches of the Lake
Erie side, and, taken altogether, the Eau is a fairly good point for a
holiday with rod and gun.
Below Chatham are the Lake St. Clair marshes, so frequently referred
to by "Frank Forrester" in his works on shooting. In the spring wild
geese flock to them as of yore ; and those who like to air the breechloader
at this season can have very good sport with the shy "honkers." The
geese make their headquarters for a time at Lake.St. Clair, and fly into
the plains and corn-fields for some considerable distance every morning
to feed and are shot from "blinds " constructed upon the open plains in
the line of flight, which seldom varies much. The most reliable plan for
the sportsman after geese would be to put up at one or other of the farm
houses on the plains where the fowl feed, as he must be out at daylight
to insure success. j
These marshes and muddy plains are famous snipe grounds, and,
- so wonderful as " Frank Forrester " enjoyed
while the shooting is not now ;
the olden days, it is still good enough to
be well worth a trial; from 24
FISHING AND SHOOTING.
fifteen to forty birds per day being considered fair bags, though these
numbers are often doubled by crack snipe-shots. Woodcock are also
frequently found in the wet corn-fields early in the fall, and later in the
dry thickets of the uplands, where the quail haunt, and rabbits are
plentiful everywhere. Ruffed grouse may be found in the heavy woods
bordering the plains at several points, and not unfrequently a fine mixed
bag of grouse, cock, snipe, quail, rabbit, and duck is made by one gun in
a couple of days. Plover are numerous in spring and autumn. About
the mouth of the Thames and adjacent creeks and marshes, and upon
Lake St. Clair, are any number of duck, though the good points for
shooting them are comparatively few. It must not be forgotten that the
finest portions of these western marshes, where men kill one hundred
and odd big duck in a day, are strictly preserved; but still an outsider
can generally find a bit of sport worth going after at the points named;
and, if he has good dogs and varies the programme by attending to the
duck at early morning, and the quail later in the day, he should, as I
have done, and can do again, have a right good time, and bag his share
of what is going.
Fishing, both trolling and whipping with minnow or artificial bait, in
. and about Baptiste and Jeanette's Creeks (both near the mouth of the
Thames) and in and about the mouth of that stream, is generally very
good, the catch including black, rock, and speckled bass, pike, pickerel,
and perch. The mouth of the Thames is reached from Chatham by
steamer plying to Detroit, for a mere trifle for transportation, and you
can camp upon the beach where the Thames joins Lake St. Clair, or find
accommodation for a small party at the lighthouse.
At Mitchell's Bay, on Lake St. Clair, reached either from Wallaceburg or by driving from Chatham, are hotels, and, as a general thing,
good duck shooting and black bass fishing. THE   MISSISSIPPI   RIVER  AND   LAKES.
THE station for these waters is Carleton Junction, on the line of the
Canadian Pacific Railway, 146 miles from Montreal, 26 miles from
Ottawa, and 225 miles from Toronto. At the junction are a couple
of good hotels, and a five minutes' walk will take you to the town of
Carleton Place. Board at either point will cost about $1 per day, and
men and boats can be secured at the usual rates on the spot. The
Mississippi River runs through the town, and it is a rapid stream, foaming and boiling over rocky ledges and big boulders, with many deep,
quiet pools and eddies, in the shadows of which lurk plenty of black and
rock bass. The river is easily fished and heavy black fellows can be
taken from it, and rock bass unlimited; but a better point is the first
enlargement of the winding river, known as Mississippi Lake. This lake
is three miles from Carleton Place, and affords excellent sport, large
black bass being readily hooked. Fair-sized pike are plentiful, lunge are
scarce, but rock bass may be taken by the dozen almost anywhere. In
the fast current of the river, spoons, artificial minnows, etc., are good, but
the most deadly bait is either minnow or crayfish, and flies might prove
useful. A couple of miles above Mississippi Lake is another and smaller
lake, which is, perhaps, the best of the waters. On either of them trolling with an ordinary spoon, or still-fishing with worms, will answer
I admirably. Particulars about the most promising reaches can be obtained
at Carleton Place; and there is also a tackle "shop, where a useful stock
of lines, trolls, etc., is kept.
Some exceedingly good catches are on record for these waters, and in
the fall there is now and again some fairly good shooting, but hardly
sufficient to merit special attention, though as a fishing resort it is well
worth a visit.
(*S) THE   OTTAWA  RIVER   AND   ITS  TRIBUTARIES.
THE transcontinental line of the Canadian Pacific Railway, in its
course from Carleton Junction to Winnipeg, traverses for the
greater part of the way a region of country that for sporting purposes can hardly be excelled by anything outside of the magnificent game
resorts and trout waters of the Rocky Mountains and the wonderful
prairies of the Canadian Northwest. Those, of course, are not approached
by any territory on the American continent; but the sportsman who has
not time to devote to the transcontinental tour can find all the amusement he wants, and wildly beautiful scenery second only to the mountains,
and never journey a yard beyond Nepigon River. And if that wonderful
stream is too far away for the time at command, one need not go beyond
the Ottawa River and its tributaries to give rod and rifle full play. Sport
such as no man should complain of can be enjoyed at will; trout of good
size can be taken in numbers; and in these lonely forests are moose,
caribou, deer, bear, grouse, and other game, at many points as plentiful
as they were when only the hardy voyageurs and the pioneers of olden
days invaded their sanctuaries. Upon the main, or " Winnipeg," line the
first promising stopping-place is the town of Arnprior, situated upon an
expansion of the Ottawa known as Lac des Chats, and distant from
Carleton Junction about twenty-six miles.
The bass fishing in Lac des Chats is fully equal to the average waters
in Ontario, which is saying not a little, and the beauty of its scenery has
made its name famous. Upon the shores are many attractive spots for a
camp; but the best of all, and the one most frequented by camping and
picnic parties, is at the beautiful Chats Rapids, where fine sport can be
had with the bass, and a week or so be pleasantly spent under canvas.
No camper ever yet returned from this point dissatisfied with either the
fishing or the scenery, and it would be an extremely difficult matter to
discover a better location. Boats, guides, and bait can be secured at
Arnprior, and board there will cost $i per day, with guide and boats
about the same. The most reliable baits are live minnows and worms.
Trolling with spoons is also a sure method, and other artificial lures
ought to do good service.
The town of Pembroke should be the objective 'point for those who
seek trout fishing unexcelled by any waters in Ontario. It is situated
upon Alumette Lake, an enlargement of the Ottawa River, and is some
seventy-eight miles from Carleton Junction, and directly upon the line of
railway. The town contains about 5,000 inhabitants, and offers good
hotel accommodation at prices ranging from $1 a day up. There are
plenty of boats and carriages to be hired at a moderate outlay, and it is
the centre of one of the very best trout regions in America; and there
are also several places within easy reach where capital black bass fishing
is the rule.
The entire country hereabouts is intersected with many streams of
various sizes, all plentifully stocked with trout, the size of the fish varying
in proportion to the volume of water where they are found. A detailed
list of them would be useless, as the angler cannot go astray. On the
Quebec side of the Ottawa River, the Laurentian range of mountains
(26) forms the bank, and every stream which courses down their slopes (and
their name is legion) is stocked with trout. On the Ontario side, and
within a few miles of Pembroke, are a half dozen waters which afford
first rate fishing.
Within six miles are three good waters, in any of which an average
angler can take from thirty to forty good fish in a day.
Within twenty-five miles of the town, and out in Chichester township,
are a great many lakes, in which large catches can be made. Of these
fish too much cannot be said: they are the gamest of the game, and a
marked peculiarity arkmt them is their uniformity in size. Among a
• whole .day's catch three-fourths of the fish would weigh a pound apiece,
>very few running below that weight, and few or none exceeding a pound
and a half.
Fifteen miles below the town are the Poquette Rapids, than which
there is no finer spot for camping. To reach this water necessitates a
pleasant drive, but the fishing is of the best.
A particularly good lake, distant from Pembroke twenty miles, can
be reached by steamer, and also the mouth of Deep River, both of these
waters furnishing good sport. Another lake is situated upon a small
mountain, within easy driving distance, and from it splendid trout can be
taken in good numbers, the fish running from one to two and a half
pounds. It is a rare occurrence to take a fish weighing less than a pound
in the lake, and you will not find a better place to wet a line. To reach
it, one has to put in a bit of up-hill tramping, but only long enough to
thoroughly extend the muscles and fit a man for a grand day's work. A
peculiarity about the trout in this and some other neighboring waters is
that they appear to be of three different varieties, though the difference
is simply a matter of color and markings.
Perhaps the first fish caught will be a fine specimen of the ordinary
brook trout, resplendent with the famous jewelled regalia which have so
often been sung and written of. The second fish may prove to be a
paler-tinted, heavier-made fellow, game to the backbone, and swift and
strong, but lacking the beauty of number one. The angler will to a certainty eye this fish attentively, and possibly slip it into the creel with the
remark, " That's the queerest-looking trout I've seen for some time,-" and
he will cast again, hoping to take another.
The fly will kiss the water, and lo I there is a sudden lightning gleam
and a fierce strain that makes the rod bow in acknowledgment, and the
reel scream a surprised protest, while the blood courses through one's
veins in swift response to the challenge of a real out-and-out fighter. The
swirling battle goes on — the maddened rushes grow shorter and weaker,
the reel cautiously devours foot by foot of the silken tether, and presently
the net sinks below a royal prize; and as he rolls over, with a despairing
effort, the current flashes with a gleam of brightest gold, and you have
an example of what is styled in the vicinity a " golden trout." Swift,
valiant champions of the flood are they, looking as though they had been
gilded all over their lower parts with a tint that rivals the splendor of
the lazy gold-fish of glass-globe notoriety; and never did nobler quarry
test the spring of a rod.    Such are the trout of this mountain lake.
To refer again to the streams upon the Quebec side, Ouiseau Creek
deserves more than a passing notice. The fishing is particularly good,
the catch weighing from a quarter of a pound each up to a pound and a
half. In order to fish this creek properly, the angler must go prepared
to wade, and the water will be found clear of obstructions and the bottom 28 FISHING AND SHOOTING.
safe, with no treacherous spots to entrap the feet.    Between Pembroke
and the town of Mattawa, ninety-four miles distant, are dozens of streams, I
all well stocked with trout, and several of them being also excellent for -
bass, especially at Petewawa, eleven miles from Pembroke, and also at
Chalk  River, nine  miles farther along the line.    Inside of this limit
several very good trout streams are crossed by the track.
One of the best creeks in the district is Bissett's, crossed by the
Canadian Pacific line, and distant from Pembroke sixty miles. It is wide
and open, with safe bottom all the way across for wading; and some of
the handsomest trout ever hooked in this entire section of country have
been killed on this water. The fish are not phenomenally large, but as a
general thing they run very even in size, the average being from ten to
twelve inches in length.    Good sport can be enjoyed here.
Half an hour's run from Bissett's is Deux Rivieres, or Two Rivers
Station, another great spot for trout. But enough have been mentioned
to give a good rough idea of the great resources of this section of country.
in the matter of fishing. Pains have been taken not to overdraw the picture, and the information relating to this subject has been collected on
the spot, and by a practical fisherman who fishes the northern country
regularly.
To sum up, I can strongly advise a trial of these waters, as the result
will to a surety convince any angler that there is no such country for trout
fishing. There is no hardship in fishing there, and all charges are
moderate. Conveyances can be hired at the ordinary rates, and hotel
rates, etc., are the same as in small towns nearer home. Minnow bait
for bass can readily be obtained, either by purchase or caught by the
angler himself with a minnow seine or gang. A very good plan is to
have a sort of landing-net rigged up with common mosquito bar instead
of netting. This, sunk flat upon the ground in shallow water, with bait
suspended over it to attract the minnows, is a sure and easy means of
obtaining a sufficient quantity of bait. And bear in mind that trout
fishing in any of these waters may be pursued a la mode, with every
opportunity for the exercise of scientific skill. None of your worms, or
bit-of-fat-pork business, but fly fishing of the best; with no more obstructions to impede casting than are sufficient to call forth a display of that
skill on which the true angler prides himself.
A man or party can go to Pembroke equipped with their finest tackle,
and find every opportunity for using their treasures. They can go with
the best rods, choicest lines, deadliest flies, and favorite reels, and find
abundant sport; and they will also find about a half a dozen enthusiastic
anglers prepared to extend to them the right hand of fellowship in the
craft, and see that visitors enjoy themselves; for there is no need for
jealousy of a rival's performance on such richly stocked waters, or in such
grand game resorts. The number of expert rods quartered in that part
of the country might be counted on the fingers of one hand; hence it
will be readily seen that there is no danger of trying an over-fished
section. There are, no doubt, a large number of experts with the rifle
and plenty of men well versed in woodcraft; but it must be remembered
that a man must work for his living in such places, and the majority of
them have little time to spare for shooting. Even if thev did devote the
whole legitimate season for killing big game, there would still be abundance for all comers. It should also be remembered that those scourges
of all good waters —the flies —moderate their attacks about the 15th of
June, and are not noticed at all after the end of July.
\ OTTAWA RIVER AND ITS TRIBUTARIES.
29
As a game country, as has been suggested, this territory will not be
found inferior to any likely to be visited by the ordinary sportsman.
Moose and caribou are of course comparatively rare, and are as yet
entirely protected by law in Ontario, the close season for both not
expiring until 1895. Black bears can be considered plentiful, some years
more and some years less. Last year they were very numerous, being
frequently seen from the town of Pembroke, and on at least one occasion
were actually in the streets! This may sound strange, but it is a fact;
for three bears crossed the river right at the town; and, if the writer's
memory is not seriously astray, two were killed inside the town limits
after having actually run down one of the principal streets. The common
red deer, so-called, can be found but a short distance from the line of the
railway: Deux Rivieres and neighboring stations being exceptionally
promising points; but the best plan for a stranger is to secure a reliable
guide, and leave the selection of the ground to him. Duck shooting is
frequently very good on the larger lakes; but the special merit of this
part of the country is the abundance of forest game. Those who visit it
can depend upon having plenty of chances at deer, within all likelihood
a shot or two at a bear, and ruffed grouse in abundance. r^
	
the very spot.
(30) THE    MATTAWA   RIVER,    ITS   HEADWATERS,   AND
THE   UPPER   OTTAWA.
FOLLOWING the transcontinental line farther west beyond Pembroke and the waters referred to, the next important station for
sportsmen is the town of Mattawa, situated at the junction of
the Mattawa River with the Ottawa. On the farther side of the latter
stream the Laurentian Mountains terminate in an immense bluff, where
not long since considerable quantities of gold were discovered; and
abundant auriferous traces have been found throughout the upper
Mattawa country, which will also be found a veritable gold mine,
figuratively speaking, for those seeking fish and game.
The town of Mattawa (a name borrowed from the Indians, and
signifying " The Forks ") is one of the best points on that portion of the
line to fit out for an extended shooting or fishing excursion. The hotel
accommodation there is very good and prices are low for board, or guides
and boats. It is a supply depot for a vast tract of rugged and wild
country, where extensive lumbering operations are carried on; and
wherever you find lumbermen you can also depend upon finding a
plentiful supply of their famous " river boats," and the equally famous
canoes. This holds good of Mattawa, and well-informed guides will
likewise be secured.
The upper country is noted for big game, moose being, for them,
plentiful, and deer everywhere. Black bears are liable to show at any
time; and, moving through the woods, you will flush ruffed grouse in
numbers — singly, by twos and threes, and whole covies of from nine to
fifteen birds. Wing shooting, owing to the nature of the cover, is very
difficult, and the best weapon for all-round work is a repeating rifle.
With this, one can cut the heads off the birds as they sit, for when put up
they almost invariably tree, and are easily approached; and, armed with
a rifle, one is always prepared for large game.
The writer once took a " No. 12 " breechloader and a Winchester
into these woods, and speedily found the former a veritable nuisance;
for it was hard to carry and could rarely be used, except in the few
scattered openings and upon some of the lakes at ducks; and even in
the latter case the rifle afforded just as much sport.
The trip up the Mattawa by canoe is as follows, it being understood
that there is plenty of game on either side of the river, and all about the
lakes to be mentioned as its headwaters. Going up stream, of course,
necessitates considerable work, and this route is described for those who
want to be most of their time in their canoe and enjoy a trip up and back.
The easiest way to do the Mattawa is to take the canoe by rail to North
Bay Station, thence by wagon to Trout Lake, and work down the
Mattawa. Your guide will lay out the route, and decide upon where to
pitch the tent if shooting is the primary object.
If you are especially bent upon fishing, or are too early for the
shooting season, you can secure guides and canoes at Mattawa, and start
up stream prepared to enjoy fine scenery and work with the rod that will
not prove disappointing.
Leaving the town and paddling up the river, the scenic effect is like a
(31) 32
FISHING AND SHOOTING.
long panorama of pleasing views, changing at every turn ; and each
stretch of glancing water and towering rocky bank is apparently fairer
than the last, until, about a mile and a half from the starting-point, the
first portage is reached at McCool's Mills. This portage is about ioo
yards long, and then comes the beautiful sheet of water called Champlain
Lake, some five miles long and varying in width from a quarter to a half
mile.
The shores of this lake are very pretty and well wooded, with
numerous moss-covered rocky terraces, which afford excellent sites for a
party to pitch their canvas. The fishing is of the best, there being plenty
of fine lunge and bass, and both take the troll readily; while in any of
the countless coves and bays the stickler for the rod can find scope for
his ambition with bass weighing from one to five pounds.
Passing on up the lake, a roar of water is heard, and presently we
reach La Rose Rapids. The Amable du Fond River, which is the outlet
of a small chain of waters, among which are Crooked, Manitoulin,
Smith's, and Tee Lakes, pours its rapid current into the Mattawa at the
head of these rapids. The river is well worth exploring, as in the lakes
mentioned there, is capital fishing. To pass La Rose Rapids necessitates
a portage of about a quarter of a mile; then the course is straight
against a sharp current until some small rapids are reached at the foot of
Birch Lake. These are but trifling obstacles, and the next point is what
is called " The Needle." Here the detour is completed, and the Mattawa
is reached again. A goodly sized brook comes tumbling down the steep
slope from the mountains, and the angler will do well to keep this stream
in mind, for it drains several small mountain lakes heavily stocked with
speckled trout of good size.
Passing on up the river, Nature assumes a grander aspect, the banks
reaching upward higher and higher, until in many places they form walls
of sheer rock from ioo to 200 feet high. Parause Rapids and the Little
Parause demand another portage; then straight paddling again to the
Mill Rush; another short portage, and thence good paddling through
Eel Lake for a couple of miles ; then another mile of the river proper,
the scenery being, if anything, more pleasing than that already passed,
and Talon Shoot is reached. A portage of nearly 300 yards is followed
by about a mile of fast water, after which the work at the paddles can be
slackened, for the voyageur has reached Lac du Talon, famed among the
lumbermen for its mighty lunge and bass.
This is one of a regular network of small lakes which form the
headwaters of the Mattawa; and verily this network is one that will
entangle the angler's heart, for in one and all of its channels are splendid
fish. Countless unnamed small streams and rivulets contribute their
currents to feed these lakes, and speckled trout abound wherever the
water is deep enough to cover them.
If the Ottawa River is followed north of Mattawa, it will be found to
traverse a wild region very similar in general appearance, and with game
as plentiful as mentioned in reference to the Mattawa. Each of the
unnamed and practically unknown streams and lakes will be found to
contain plenty of trout, ranging in size from fingerlings up to great fish,
according to the volume of the water they inhabit. A canoe trip in this
direction would prove very enjoyable; but the fishing and shooting at
the points already described are so good that it is hardly worth while
going beyond them, except one wants to play the rSle of explorer.
However, the first stage of the journey may be made by steamer from MATTAWA RIVER AND THE UPPER OTTAWA. 33
Mattawa up the Ottawa, the voyageur taking supplies, canoes, and'guides
with him. By this route he reaches a country of moose, caribou, and bear,
and every feeder of the Ottawa contains brook trout. He can traverse
Lake Temiscamingue (Indian for " deep water"), an expansion of the
Ottawa some seventy-five miles long, containing big black bass, and
surrounded by forested levels of exceedingly rich land, occupied at
present principally by lumbermen and game, but destined shortly to-
attract numerous settlers. Beyond Lake Temiscamingue he can follow
the Ottawa into the Province of Quebec to Lac des Quince and Lake-
Mujizowaja; thence to Grand Victoria Lake and Lac des Rapides, and
finally to the very source of the mighty river, if he so pleases ; part or all
of which would be a glorious pilgrimage by canoe, and furnish themes for
many a tale of moose and bear and wolf, of struggles with hard-fighting
trout and bass, of nights in the primeval forest, of beds of sapin, and a
thousand and one other things that go to make the life of a woodland
wanderer delightful.
A lover of the canoe, who prefers to take his own craft with him,
cannot do better than visit the town of North Bay, situated on Lake
Nipissing, and distant from Mattawa forty-six miles, being also on the
- transcontinental line of the Canadian Pacific Railway.
From North Bay he can, if so inclined, first explore a portion of the
fine Lake Nipissing, and then send his canoe by wagon to Trout Lake,
some four miles away, and now reached by an excellent road. This lake
is the largest of the headwaters of the Mattawa, being about twelve miles
long. From it the route by canoe is the same as was followed in bygone
times by the voyageurs of the Hudson's Bay Company, i.e., from Trout
Lake to Turtle Lake; thence a trifling portage enables you to reach Pine
Lake, from which a portage of a quarter of a mile completes the journey
to Lac du Talon, already referred to, whence the trip on the Mattawa can
be reversed until the Ottawa is reached; and, once that stream is gained,
the voyageur can decide for himself where the trip shall end, for he is
upon that magnificent highway of waters that ends with the mighty St.
Lawrence.
1*  -■-jrt^sssSWE^4iifc.JKil m
S^^^^fc J LAKE   NIPISSING   AND   TROUT   LAKE.
THE next stopping-place will be on the shores of Lake Nipissing, at
the bustling little town of North Bay. The lake is a magnificent
sheet of water, some forty miles long by about ten wide, offering
I every facility for  sailing,  bathing, or fishing.    There is plenty of hotel
! room, from jjSi per day upwards, and the town is built right upon the
beach, the several hotels being about 200 yards from the water.
Below the village a long pier runs out 150 yards  or more, for the
i accommodation of the steamers; and from this point of vantage big
catches of pike, bass, and pickerel are made daily. The method used is
I whipping " with a rod and spoon or with a fish's eye for bait; but there
i are plenty of minnows to be taken with proper tackle; and with live bait,
or any of the good imitations, great catches could be made without going
farther than the end of the wharf. The writer has taken seven good fish,
three of them being very large pickerel and one a two-pound bass (with
common tackle borrowed from the hotel proprietor), inside of a few
minutes, by merely walking slowly along the pier and keeping the bait
about four feet below the surface. The lot-were taken ere the outer end
of the pier was turned, or, in other words, before he had walked 100
yards; and numbers of large fish could be seen down in the cool depths,
apparently merely waiting an invitation to take hold. There are good
boats, including a sail boat, available; and by taking a skiff and rowing
away towards the Indian reservation, a pleasant trip and a good catch are
assured. The list of fish includes bass, pike, pickerel, and lunge, and
heavy ones of each variety will pr.obably be taken during an afternoon's
trolling.    But a visitor must remember that sport is sometimes uncertain
Sjgpon all large lakes, and he should not despair if he fails to land a big
string at the first attempt. This will also apply to Trout Lake or to any
other water of equal size.    But the chances, especially on  Nipissing,
||Dmount to almost a certainty in favor of success, and, unless the water is
too rough, he will return with a fine lot of big ones.
As a shooting ground the Nipissing country ranks very high. There
are any number of deer and ruffed grouse all around the lake, quite a
few moose, caribou, and bear, and upon what is known as the " long arm "
of Nipissing, rattling good duck shooting can be had in the fall. The
district about Callender, and the very best portions of the Muskoka deer
country, are close at hand, and those of Parry Sound lie between this
lake and the Georgian Bay, and they are among the best known.
One of the best points on the Nipissing, and reached direct by the
Canadian Pacific Railway, is the country around Sturgeon River, distant
from North Bay twenty-three miles. A party of Toronto gentlemen,
perfect strangers to the place, went in there in the fall of 1887, and got
all the deer they wanted, a great bag of grouse; and one of them, who
had never seen a moose before in his life, killed two of these grandest of
all Canadian deer in one day. In the fall of 1888 some of these gentlemen went again, making their headquarters near Sturgeon Falls, and got
five deer the first week, a lynx, and a large number of ruffed grouse, and
could have killed a great deal more game had they cared to do so. They
broke camp twice, and in changing locations lost time;  otherwise, the
(35) 36 FISHING AND SHOOTING.
total of killed would have been much more. In 1889 they were again on
the old grounds, and repeated former successes, getting nine deer, to four
rifles, in eleven days, and a heavy bag of grouse. Moose signs were
plentiful, but, as the big fellows were protected by law, no effort was
made to kill one. From this the sportsman can form a rough idea of
how plentiful the game is in this highly favored section.
Some four miles inland from Nipissing is the beautiful Trout Lake, of
which so much has been written during the past few years. To a camping
party this lake, offers attractions of the highest order, and there are two
or three houses upon the shore where a few visitors can be comfortably
provided for, and where a half dozen excellent skiffs are kept for hire.
Trout Lake is a picture that once seen will never be forgotten. Numerous islands of all sizes, from half an acre to nearly a hundred, make
portions of it appear like so many separate channels, and form a
combination of loveliness that is not surpassed by any lake in Canada.
Surrounding this water is a rugged, rocky, lonely wild, with great hills
and deep ravines, alike densely clad with towering evergreens, and
through their shadowed aisles runs many a good trout stream.
Flies do not trouble the fisherman so long as he stays upon the lake,
but in the woods along the trout streams they and the mosquitoes are
pretty bad until the last week in July, when the flies disappear and
the mosquitoes also let up in the attack. Fishing in the lake is a thing
to be remembered. Deep in its icy depths (for Trout Lake is deeper
than a prime minister) are great big salmon trout, and for these an
extra weight must be put on the trcll.
But one need not go " three thousand leagues under the sea " to have
sport, for, with ordinary tackle, bass and pickerel of good size can
readily be taken, and now and again a monster lunge will test the angler's
quality. One of thirty-five pounds weight was hooked by a lady, and
successfully landed after a hard fight.  •
If a man puts in a week at Trout Lake, and comes away dissatisfied
with either the fishing or the scenery of that richly endowed spot, he is
indeed a hard customer to please. This water has been visited by
comparatively few, and the majority of them Americans; but those who
have once enjoyed the privilege return again year after year, for it is one
of those places which never wear out.
A guide and boat can be secured on the spot, and, starting from the
head of the lake, the visitor is pulled away down for a couple of miles
ere it is time to cast out the trolls.
Each fisherman should have a couple of lines, for this reason : Some
few yards from the rocky, evergreen-clad shore a sort of shelf of rocks
runs out ten or twelve feet below the surface. It can be distinctly seen
and the object is to keep the boat as near as possible above its outside
limit. Looking down through the clear water, you can trace the extreme
edge of this ledge, and immediately outside of it is a black abyss of great
depth. The two lines are worked in this way: one should be as long
as possible, and have enough sinker above the troll to keep it at the
depth of this shelf of rock, the other and shorter line requiring nothing
but the ordinary spoon hook.
Following this method, some heavy fish should be taken, the short
line keeping the angler thoroughly well occupied playing bass and
pickerel, with a very good chance of hooking a big lunge now and again.
Passing on down the lake, the scenery is extremely beautiful, and one
realizes how thoroughly attractive is this wilderness pure  and simple: LAKE NIPISSING AND TROUT  LAKE.
Presently a round opening in the wall of evergreens is noticed, and a
closer inspection reveals Short Portage, a few yards long, which leads
into Four-Mile Bay. We take a peep through, and note how pretty the
surroundings are ; then go down the lake toward Big Camp Island, seven
miles from the starting point, passing several very pretty little islands on
the way. Many Americans and Canadians have pitched their canvas
upon the big island, and all unite in praise of the resort. A climb
upon some of the great rocks, where the moss forms "a resting-place
fit for a king, gives pleasant relief from the confinement of the skiff, and
one can lie in dreamy comfort, and really find that peaceful rest which is
such a delusion upon many holiday trips. Fairer spot could not be
chosen for a week or so in camp, and in a short time the attractions of
this neighborhood will be better understood.
Turtle Creek is connected with this water, and the fishing there is
something to be remembered; while in its outlet, Lost River, the bass
fishing is unsurpassed. Many big catches made on the last mentioned
are on record, some of the bass running over three pounds, and quite
willing to be caught at the rate of fifteen an hour.
A peculiarity of Trout Lake is a wonderful echo, which is best tested
from a point on the water about two miles above Big Camp Island,
especially on a calm evening. Under such conditions the slightest sound
is repeated with startling distinctness many times over, and testing the
mocking voice of the distant hills is a favorite amusement with those
enjoying a paddle by moonlight upon.this lovely water. A sharp cry or
loud whistle is answered at once from the lofty hills on either side with
marvellous precision; then there will be a-few seconds of silence, and a
musical reecho comes floating back, to be repeated again and again from
hill after hill, and point after point, softer and sweeter as it slowly dies
away, until it is finally lost in a whisper, faint and far, from the great
forested height that marks the head of the lake.
Shooting in the immediate neighborhood is always good. Bears frequently appear upon the shores; to see deer swimming from the mainland
to one or other of the islands is a common occurrence; caribou are often
met with, and moose have always harbored about the beaver meadows and
in a densly wooded stretch of lowland near the foot of the lake. A couple
of Toronto gentlemen caught a very young moose there last season, and
released it again after it had been admired by the rest of the party. The
: writer himself saw a grand bull moose one summer's day, when exploring
the shore in a canoe, and he has killed large bags of grouse and many
ducks there in the fall, and also his share of the deer abounding in these
famous woods. Many articles praising this locality in the highest terms
have recently appeared in the Canadian and American fishing and sporting journals, and the tourist can go there satisfied that wonderful y
attractive scenery and plenty of sport will make the trip a memorable
one.  THE PLEASURES OF ANGLING.
39
THE   PLEASURES  OF  ANGLING.
This is the spot, where the shadows cool
Blacken the depths of the swirling pool,
And the forest resounds with the laughing call
Of the silver .tongue of the mimic fall.
Just where a great.big trout would lie,
On with the best-dressed, deadliest fly—
So, so, now for a lucky cast —
Confound that branch, I'm fast!
Ha! saw you not that lightning gleam
Where yon moth but kissed the treacherous stream?
Match me swiftly the fluttering game —
Beware the branch!   Ah! try again.
Hum, that's strange.   Try farther down;
I'll have him this time, I'll lay a crown.
Missed him! —You know there's many a slip-
Great Scott ! there goes the tip!
Never mind, there's another inside the butt,
Now, drop lightly the dainty gut
Just where that snowy mass of foam
Swings in behind yon mossy stone.
Hurrah! I have him! Careful, now—
Egad, old chap, you're mine, I vow,
Just as sure as though book of fate
Already held your length and weight.
Avaunt! ye praters of city life,
With your sickening toil and ceaseless strite,
And your doubtful pleasures that never dare
To match this fight in the healthful air,
This grand set-to in the rapid's froth
And the triumph of landing - Oh! , he's off! FROM STURGEON FALLS TO PORT ARTHUR AND LAKE
OF THE WOODS, INCLUDING THE FAMOUS NEPIGON
AND STEEL RIVERS, ETC.
IN following the transcontinental line from the portion just described to
Port Arthur, the route traverses a game region par excellence, rough
and wild in the extreme, and crosses some of the very finest trout
streams on the continent, including the world-renowned Nepigon River,
the dream alike of anglers who have and have not wet a line in its rushing flood, or had their best efforts taxed by the jewelled leviathans that
abound in that incomparable stream. Many of the rivers and brooks in
this section, or the numerous lakes, great and small, which are seen from
the car windows, have never been fished, but such as have been tried
have richly rewarded the experiment. Near the town of Sudbury some
fair lake fishing is obtainable, and the adjacent country is a good one
for black bear and grouse. In traversing the north shore of Lake
Superior you will cross, among others, the Wahnapitaeping River, flowing from Lake Metagama into Georgian Bay; the Onaping River,
draining the lake of that name; Spanish River; Mississaga, the outlet of
Winibegon and Ground Hog Lakes; the Apishkaugama River and the
Steel River, a trout stream of rare merit. The Magpie and White and
the two Pic Rivers also abound in trout of good size, White River being
perhaps as good as any of the extensive list. Steel River offers some of
the choicest trout fishing available outside of Nepigon. It has several
small falls and rapids and deep pools, and, in fact, it is just the stream an
angler loves, and wonderful catches can be made either by following it
upward or near its mouth, using either flies, worms, minnow, or artificial
lures. Other trout-haunted tributaries of this north shore are the Mink,
Black, Maggot, Gravel, Cypress, Prairie, Pine, Fire Hill, Trout Creek,
Wolf, McKensie, and Current Rivers, and there are several others within
easy reach of the railway. In all of these trout are numerous, and the
great majority of them can be readily waded. Of course in fishing such
waters one must be prepared to live under canvas or put up with poor
accommodation; but that only adds to the enjoyment of a holiday in this
lone, romantic land, and more attractive surroundings or better fishing
than will surely be found there no man can desire.
During the fall of 1890 the Railway Company, desirous of doing all
in its power to further the interests of sportsmen, decided to render
several of the good but almost unfished rivers of this district more
accessible, and also to decrease the difficulty of fishing that exceptionally
good water, the Steel. What was most urgently required was a system
of trails leading direct to the fishing, for the woods and cover about many
of the best reaches of fast water were almost impassable to any but
experienced woodsmen. Trails were accordingly made upon the following : the Steel River, Prairie River, Black River, Gravel River, and Jack
Pine River, and it must be remembered that these are the choice of the
whole extensive list. A few remarks conveying hints for general guidance
to each will be useful.
Steel River. To fish this river the sportsman should get off at
Jack Fish station.   A trail, starting about a quarter of a mile east of Jaok
(40) STURGEON FALLS TO PORT ARTHUR. 41
Fish, has been cut through to Clearwater Lake, a distance of about two
and a half miles, and the portage bet%veen Clearwater and Mountain
Lake (the headwaters of Steel River), a mile in length, has been brushed
out and put in good order. A trail has been cut on the west side of the
river from Mountain Lake to the foot of Big Bluff at Telford's Pool, at
which point the river can be waded at low water. On the east side a trail
has been cut from Mountain Lake to the foot of rapid water. A trail has
also been cut from the iron railway bridge to the basin and head of the
rapids at the mouth of the river. A canoe can now be taken in by way of
Clearwater Lake and down the river to Jack Fish station without difficulty.
The portages, though long, are good. The fishing in this river is good
from the time the ice leaves until the middle of June, except immediately
after heavy rains, when the water is too much discolored for a day or
two. From the middle of June until the ist of August good sport is to
be had, though somewhat uncertain. From August ist to September 15th
the fishing cannot be surpassed anywhere, the fish ranging in weight from
two to six pounds. I have known of forty fish taken in a morning and
evening's fishing, with two rods, to weigh, dressed, 123 pounds.
If the fisherman intends visiting the headwaters of this river he
should have guides with him; but capital sport can be had from the
mouth of the river to the basin. If this part of the river is fished, no
guide will be required, and just as good sport can be had as in the upper
stretches.
Black River, situated half a mile west of Black River siding.   The
I company have had a trail cut, starting from the west side of the bridge
over the river, and running north for about four miles, to the head of the
rapids.    From this point fishermen can wade down the river, where good
sport is to be had.   The fish are plentiful, though not large;  anything
, over two and a half pounds in weight is rarely caught.    It would well
repay anybody to visit this point, if only to see the falls, which are situated
■ about a mile south of the bridge.    A good trail leading to the fall starts
from the line of railway about a mile west of Black River siding.
Gravel River.    To fish this river the sportsman should get off at
I Gravel River station.    A trail has been cut from the station to the foot
I of the big falls on Gravel River, a distance of two miles, then down the
I river along the rapid water for about two and a half miles, then back to
I the station.    These trails form a triangle.   The fishing in this river is
good, particularly early in the season and in the fall, though somewhat
uncertain.    Fish range in weight from one and a half to four pounds.
Good fishing is also to be had from the rocks along the lake shore.
This is a most desirable point for parties who wish to enjoy good fishing
without the expense of guides.   There is a good camping ground near
the station, within easy reach of both the lake and river fishing.   The
scenery here is also particularly fine.
Jack Pine River, one-fourth of a mile east  of Mazokama station.
A trail   starting from Mazokama station, has been cut north along this
river for four miles, to the head of the rapid water, i Large fish are taken
in this river from the time the ice leaves until the middle of June, except
. during very high water.    From the middle of June until August 15th
- large numbers of fish can be taken, though somewhat small in size; the
I fisherman can always look for three or four large fish, and not be disap-
I pointed, during a day on the river.    From the 15th of August until the
ISthof September the fish are plentiful and large, averaging in weight
from one and a half to five pounds. 42
FISHING AND SHOOTING.
Pearl River Station. Between Pearl River station and Loon
Lake siding are a number of lakes, among them, Loon Lake, Bass Lake,
and Silver Lake, all within easy reach from the railway, where capital
black bass and trout fishing is to be had.
Michipocoton. To fish this river you get off at Missanabie station
and cross Dog Lake in a canoe, distance about ten miles, to Stony Portage, where the fishing starts. Good fishing is to be had from this point
to where the river empties into Lake Superior, a distance of about forty
miles. The fish are large (up to five and a half pounds) and game, the
water rapid, and lots of room to cast a fly. The stream has been very
little fished. I believe it to be very little inferior, if any, to the Nepigon.
By writing to the Hudson Bay officer at Missanabie, guides and canoes
can be secured without any difficulty.
White River. Fairly good fishing is to be had in this stream. The
railway follows the river from White River station to Montizambert.
The fish are not very large, averaging from one to three and a half pounds
in weight. In the proper season, i.e., from August ist to September 15th,
the fish are plentiful. The advantage of this stream is that it can be
fished without guides, as at no point is it more than a quarter of a mile
from the railway between the above mentioned points.
Peninsula. Station close to the shore of Lake Superior. Good trout
fishing can be had along the shore of the lake between this point and
Port Coldwell station; also in Port Munro stream, four miles west of
Peninsula, and in the Mink River, about eight miles west of Peninsula.
Canoes cannot be used in either of these streams. Plenty of fish to be had,
and of a large size. There is a hotel at Peninsula, where the traveller
can get a good clean bed, provided he does not wish to camp out.
Middleton. First-rate fishing to be had in Lake Superior, along the
rocks, at this point. It is also the station to get off at for any one
desiring the Little Pic River, situated two miles east. Good fishing
is to be had in this stream. Indians are always camped at the mouth
of it, and they can be engaged at any time to take the fisherman up
the river. The only drawback to the river is that, for four or five days
after rain, the water is so discolored that the fish cannot see a fly, which
makes the fishing very uncertain; however, the fisherman can always
depend upon having good sport in Lake Superior.
Prairie River. Situated two miles east of Steel Lake siding. The
company have had a trail cut out along this river, which starts about 500
feet west of where the river is crossed by the railway, and runs in a northerly direction for about four miles, where it strikes the river at the head
of the rapid water. Fishermen from this point can wade down the rapids,
where good fishing is to be had all along. The trail is cut quite close
to the river, and can be easily reached from any point. Good fishing can
be had in this water after the middle of June ; but is particularly good from
August ist to September 15th, fish running in weight from one-half to
three pounds.
Most famous of all the streams of the north shore, however, is the
beautiful Nepigon, and nobody going this far should fail to make the
trip by canoe from its mouth to the parent lake above. It is now so well
known that a minute description is entirely unnecessary. Enough has
already been written about its scenery and sport of fishing to fill several
volumes.
The Nepigon is some thirty-one miles long, and connects Lake
Nepigon with Superior, its waters emptying into Nepigon Bay.    On a STURGEON FALLS TO PORT ARTHUR. 43
fishing day — for even Nepigon has its " off days," and occasionally gets
the sulks—you will take veritable giants: great trout of beauty and
weight, that even the rankest enthusiast ne'er dreams of till he has tried
this stream. Two-pounders, three-pounders, four, five — yea! and, by the
unlying scales, eight-pounders are there ready to spring upon the deadly
fly and fight to the last gasp against your practised hand. The station
for it is Nepigon, where will be found a comfortable and well-managed
little hotel, the Taylor House, with accommodation for a limited number.
On some days the fishing is fairly good from the railway bridge down
to the mOuth, particularly in the rapids; but to fish this river properly you
must camp, and fortunately there is no difficulty about obtaining guides
(Indians) and canoes at Red Rock, Nepigon, Ont., a Hudson's Bay Company's post. All necessaries for ordinary camping parties can also be
obtained there. The rates for two Indians and a canoe being from $2
to $4 per day. Intending visitors must bear in mind that a trip up the
river means living under canvas, and govern themselves accordingly.
Necessities can be obtained on the spot; luxuries must be brought from
the towns. There are many beautiful sites for a camp all along the river,
and to say that it is a veritable anglers' paradise is quite within the
mark. Trout scaling from two to five pounds can be readily taken on
any of the best pools, and whitefish are plentiful and afford fine sport,
rising eagerly at " gnat flies." Their mouths are as tender as wet paper,
and a light hand must have hold of the rod to land them; but a two or
three-pound whitefish is not to be despised, as he will fight bravely on
the hook, and is wondrous toothsome on the platter.
The standard flies for Nepigon and adjacent waters are the "professor," "queen," "grizzly king," "Montreal," "Seth Green," "fairy,"
"shoemaker," "coachman," "silver doctor," "gray drake," "green
drake," yellow, brown, black, and grizzled " hackles," and " gnats " for
the special benefit of the silvery whitefish. In addition to such of these
as you may pin faith to, and others of your own particular fancy, it will
be as well to take some artificial minnows and a few of the good rubber
baits along; for they come in very handy when the fish refuse a fly, and
are apt to tempt big fellows. Your fly-fisher may sneer at this, but let
him sneer, and take the baits just the same. A fig for what the fish rises
to ! So long as you play him fairly and weir after he is once hooked, the
sport is just the same; and, moreover, if the true inwardness of the
capture of some of the " monsters " was known, it might be that they fell
to a grasshopper or even a degraded "chunk of pork," while the fly-book
was never opened.
The Nepigon falls 313 feet in its course of thirty-one miles, and varies
greatly in width, narrowing to about 150 yards one mile from its mouth,
but broadening at other points into a noble stream. Four lakes mark its
course the first being Lake Helen, only a mile from Red Rock, the
Canadian Pacific crossing at its outlet. The current at this outlet is.
very fast Lake Helen extends due north, and is some eight miles long
by one wide. The river proper leaves this lake on the west side, and for
six miles above it is broad and deep, with a moderate current, till the
bend at Camp Alexandria is reached. A quarter of a mile above are the
Long Rapids, continuing for a couple of miles. These are avoided on
the upward journey by paddling up a brook on the west side for three-
quarters of a mile, and from thence portaging to the second lake, Lake
Vjessie, reached by a carry » of a mile and a half. Lake Jessie is three
4iiles long and dotted with numerous small islands, and is separated 44 FISHING AND SHOOTING.
from Lake Maria by the tumbling narrows. The latter lake is two and a
half miles long. From this lake to Cedar Portage, or Split Rock, the
distance is a couple of miles, the portage being 250 yards long. A mile
and a quarter above is another portage over an island in the centre of
the stream, called Island Portage, which is about fifty yards long; and
three miles above it is One-Mile Portage. At a trifle over a mile above
the head of this portage the stream rushes down in a foamy chute; and
immediately above is Lake Emma, nearly four miles long. A narrow
arm of the river extends beyond the White Chute, which the canoer will
follow for about a mile, and then portage 230 yards to Lake Emma. The
distance between this lake and Lake Nepigon is only six miles; but the
river is broken by four rapids not to be essayed by canoe. In order to
avoid this, canoes turn aside at the northwest angle of Lake Emma, and
follow a small stream, flowing from Lake Hannah, for a quarter of a mile,
and thence onward for four miles to the head of Lake Hannah, where
Flat Rock Portage, one mile long, extends to the shore of Lake Nepigon.
This grand sheet of water measures some seventy miles in length by
about fifty wide. It is studded with a vast number of beautiful islands,
and its coast line is so broken and indented with coves and bays that it
measures good 580 miles. To give an idea of the attractions of this lake,
it may be mentioned that the islands, great and small, number nearly, if
not quite, 1,000, varying in size from eight miles in breadth^down to
mere rocky picturesque fragments. Uncounted streams, several of them
navigable by canoes for a considerable distance, empty into the great
reservoir, and make this lake a most attractive water for explorations.
The principal feeder is the Kayosh or Gull River, at the southwest curve
of the lake, at the mouth of which is situated " Poplar Lodge," a Hudson
Bay post. From the above brief summary some idea may be gleaned of
the resources of Nepigon. No essential part of the outfit should be
omitted, for once started from Nepigon Station you are in the wilderness
indeed; and take your veiling material and favorite "fly medicine"
along, for you will need them. There are " no flies on Nepigon" as a
trout river, in the accepted meaning of that vulgarism; but, like every
other good water on the American continent, it has its winged pests;
and, while the sport is such as to make you hold lightly their attacks,
comfort is not to be overlooked. The Nepigon can be reached either by
the Canadian Pacific Railway direct to Nepigon Station, or by one of the
Canadian Pacific Railway's splendid lake steamers to Fort William, the
tourist having the privilege of going by rail and returning by steamer, or
vice versa.
A point to be remembered is that very large trout (genuine brook
trout, salmo fontinalis) may be caught from the rocks along the lake
shore at almost any point between Port Coldwell Station and Mink Harbor, a reach of coast line of many miles. Residents on Jack Fish Bay
take all the trout they want by merely casting from the shore rocks with
the rudest description of tackle; and I know no finer sport than thus
hooking and playing a five, six, or seven-pounder in the ice-cold flood of
" Big-sea-water," the Gitche Gumee of the red man, upon whose mighty
breast Hiawatha fought with the leviathans who lurk below, as told in
Longfellow's poetical story.
In the territory lying between the Nepigon and Port Arthur are a
number of excellent waters, both for trout and bass. In two of them
Loon and Silver Lakes, black bass of great size are easily taken, as they
rise freely to the fly, and the marvel of a speckled trout and a black bass
t STURGEON FALLS TO PORT ARTHUR.
45
hooked on the same cast has been witnessed at Loon Lake. This lake
is the source of the Pearl River, and is well worth a visit, as is also
Silver Lake, distant from it only three miles, and equally well stocked
with the two fish mentioned. There are a number of trout streams in
the neighborhood of Port Arthur and Fort William. The same choice
of rail or steamer is of course offered, going or returning, as mentioned
in connection with Nepigon, as Port Arthur and its sister town, Fort
William, are the terminal points of one of the Canadian Pacific Railway's
J.lake steamer routes..
As shooting grounds, these broad tracts of forests, lakes, and rocky
barrens between Sudbury and Port Arthur are worth attention. Black
bear, moose, caribou, and ruffed grouse are generally distributed; the best
points being upon the north shore of Superior proper; Jack Fish being,
perhaps, as good a centre of operations as any.    But, as every sportsman
' knows, this implies knowledge of woodcraft and more or less work.
THE CHILD OF NATURE.
A sportsman so keen and an Indian so cute,
Conversed as they paddled along;
The wild caribou they had started to shoot;
There was talk of red deer and some others to boot,
But the place where to find them was now in dispute,
And each said the other was wrong.
' And oh," said the sportsman, " the season is late,
There's nothing I fear like delay,
Let me kill but one deer, then much as I'd hate
To turn back so soon, yet no longer I'd wait,
For, as I informed you, my hurry is great."
But the Indian, — he's paid by the day.
' Heap good shooting," he said, " other side of the la'..-,"
And he spoke with an air of decision;
' Plenty deer and big moose, s'pose some trouble take,
Indian know lots good place, s'pose good camp we make;
Not go back too soon— that heap big mistake; "
For the boat was well filled with provision.
Apart and together, they hunt up and down,
And quickly find plenty of slot;
But though often the sportsman blazed into the brown
Not a head was brought in, till the snow coming down
Compelled a return, empty-handed, to town;
The Indian! Oh, he'd cached what he shot.
In the hunter's sweet craft poor Lo doth excel,
Though with mind so untutored in pelf,
Yet the craft of the white man he's learned fairly well,
Has this child of the prairie, the river, and fell;
And sometimes you can't almost always quite tell
When he's playing it low on yourself.
M. St.J.
Westward from Port Arthur a wild broken country extends to the
boundary line that divides the Province of Ontario from that of Manitoba.
Like the region just referred to, it has many lakes and streams; but the
list worthy of special notice is Wabigoon Lake, lying half-way between
Port Arthur and Rat Portage.    Wabigoon (Indian for lily) Lake is a 46
FISHING AND SHOOTING.
pretty sheet of water some eight miles long by three broad, with rough,
rocky shores and a few small islands. Lake trout, pike, and pickerel
abound in it, and may be caught with trolls. A small stream connects it
with Rainy Lake, offering a canoe route to the Rainy River system of
waters, which mark the international boundary between the Province of
Ontario and the State of Minnesota. One can leave the train at Wabigoon Station, obtain canoe, guide, and supplies from the Hudson Bay
Company's post there, and descend the outlet of Wabigoon Lake to
Rainy Lake, and from there paddle either to Lake-of-the-Woods via
Rainy River, or follow the international boundary eastward by way of
Pigeon River to Lake Superior, reached at Grand Portage.
Travelling westward from Wabigoon, Eagle River and Vermilion
Lake are reached after a short run, and from here again the Rainy River
and Lake-of-the-Woods may be reached by canoe, the route being by
Eagle Lake, Vermilion Lake, and Huckleberry Lake and connecting
streams. Very large lake trout can be taken in all of them, and maskinonge are numerous in the rivers linking them together. The next important lake is the magnificent Lake-of-the-Woods, one of the most
beautiful waters in all Canada. It is so irregular in shape, and has so
many islands and bays, that but a portion of it can be seen from any one
point of view. As will be readily understood, experienced guides are
necessary, if an attempt is made to explore this maze of waters, but they
can be easily secured. Lake-of-the-Woods sprawls like a huge silver
spider amid romantic surroundings of the most pleasing description ; and
from it extend natural water highways for hundreds of miles east and
west and north. A point worth noting by those fond of duck shooting is
the English River, a tributary of the Winnipeg River, and distant about
sixty miles north of Rat Portage. The writer has never shot there, and
very few men have; but three guns killed 1,247 duck in thirteen
days' shooting on the English River, and the owners of the guns
travelled all the way from Toronto to do it. One of these sportsmen has
shot at many of the best points in Manitoba and the Northwest, and made
heavy bags, but he declares that the English River grounds are the best
he ever tried.
To attempt to describe such a route in a book of this nature is impossible. A glance at a map of Canada will reveal the extent of the
great chain of waters referred to, and the sportsman can select from a
hundred or so long or short canoe trips the one that best suits his convenience. Upon these countless streams and lakes you can spend a
delightful holiday, covering a few days, weeks, or an entire season if you
will, tracing out the old-time routes of the voyageurs famous in the history
of the fur trade; for millions of dollars' worth of furs and peltries have
been brought down these glancing highways, and hundreds of feet have
trodden the portages you will find by the way. You can paddle to
Winnipeg, tracing the course of the Winnipeg River to Lake Winnipeg,
and thence south to the mouth of the Red River, and so to the " Prairie
City;" or, if you want more scope and prefer the far North, you can
traverse the length of Lake Winnipeg to Mossy Point, and from there
follow the Nelson River to Hudson Bay and Port Nelson and York
Factory; or you leave Lake Winnipeg by the boat route proper to York
Factory, and follow the paths of the fur traders. From York Factory
you can coast along Hudson Bay to Fort Churchill, and from there return
to Lake Winnipeg via the Churchill River and another chain of lakes. SAULT  STE. MARIE, MICHIGAN,  AND  WISCONSIN.
BY the opening of the new " Soo Line " of the Canadian Pacific Railway and the establishment of a direct route from Sudbury, on the
transcontinental line, to the sister cities of St. Paul and Minneapolis, yet more entirely new territory is rendered easily accessible, and
the disciple of Izaak Walton or Nimrod may with advantage devote
considerable time to that tract of country between Sudbury and Sault
Ste. Marie.
Leaving Sudbury, you find the same varied and picturesque blendings
of many colored rocks and rough forests, marked here and there wdth
silvery streams and lakes, the loveliness of the surroundings gradually
improving until the celebrated " Soo " is reached. The Sault Ste. Marie,
the great gateway between Lakes Superior and Huron, has for years been
a favorite resort with a large number of pleasure seekers.
There is splendid accommodation for visitors, the hotels being conducted and equipped in first-class style, and the many beautiful and
interesting features of the spot are a guarantee against one wearying of
it. Nor is there any lack of sport. Several fine trout waters are close
at hand; and the St. Mary's River, especially on the Canadian side
among the islands, affords as good fishing as man can desire; and game,
fclarge and small, is fairly plentiful in the woods.
An exciting amusement is running the wild rapids in a canoe manned
by Indians, it being an experience that the visitor will neither regret nor
forget.    At the foot of these fierce rapids is where the Indians spear the
whitefish, and it is rare sport indeed for a novice to try his hand
at this method of poor "Lo."    He
may not make much of a success of
it, but he will have a heap of fun,
and enjoy what we are all after —
novelty.   The immense government    w9|
Iworks, the water-power system and      xwm
canals,  and old Fort Moody, an
American military post constructed
in 1823, are among the special attractions that never fail to.interest '''?^^4^j^^-}'P^^
all comers.    And now a word to '';';•
those who think that the voice of
the sirens of old is yet heard amid the murmur of waters, and that never
a bird, nor the sweetest singer that ever faced the footlights, had a voice
to thrill like the whir of the reel. In the several channels and amid the
shadowed waters, where the rocks overhang the depths surrounding
Grand Manitoulin and sister islands, and in the north channel between
those isles and the mainland, lurks many a huge black bass, fit for a
master-hand to play to his doom, and worth a king's ransom to land
safely after the glorious tournament is fairly won. They are there, any
'number of them, grand, firm, game fellows, fierce and strong, in those
ice-cold depths; and peradventure if you run down to Algoma Mills and
test their mettle, you will never regret the experiment.   Of the shooting
(47) 48
FISHING AND SHOOTING.
to be had in the forests of Michigan and that portion of the State of
Wisconsin traversed by this route, little need be said. The writer has
put in a couple of years in Michigan woods, when the first party yon met
in a day's tramp might be a black bear; where deer roamed, not singly,
but in herds, and where a bag of fifteen to twenty-five ruffed grouse was
not considered anything extraordinary for a good cover shot. He has
had but one season's trial of the broken prairie lands, rolling hills, and
brushy ravines of Wisconsin, but deer were plentiful, bear ditto; and
stopping swift grouse and quail in the covers, and the loud-winged
" chickens " in the open, proved to be, " for people who like that sort of
thing, just about the sort of thing they like." THE    CANADIAN     NORTHWEST     THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS,   AND   BRITISH   COLUMBIA.
WHAT are undoubtedly the finest shooting grounds to be found
in America at the present day are enclosed within the boundaries of the Canadian Northwest.    Few territories  offer such
a variety of game or equal the abundance of it,  nor such  splendid
facilities for reaching the haunts of the different species.
I will not attempt to cover all the good shooting points in the vast
expanse of prairies and brush-lands lying between the eastern boundary
of the Province of Manitoba and the summit of the Rocky Mountains,
which mark the eastern confines of the Province of British Columbia.
Roughly speaking, the prairie country is about 1,000 miles wide, while
other vast tracts extend far to the northward of the Canadian Pacific
Railway, offering great inducements for special explorations by those who
can afford to devote sufficient time to the work. But the present inten
tion is to treat merely of such points as can be reached readily from the
railway, and direct the sportsman to places that the writer knows to be
good, and where he can enjoy his sport in comfort.
The prairies and woodlands of Manitoba and Assiniboia are rich and
extensive shooting grounds. Those who prefer feathers to hair can find
shooting of a varied
character, can count;
on well filled bags,
and, what is perhaps,
after all, its best feature, from the nature
of the country they
can work their well-
trained setters or
pointers to the greatest advantage and see
the animals at their
best, — always a more
enjoyable matter to
the true sportsman
than the mere killing
of game.
But the reader unacquainted with the country or the habits of
Canadian game may ask: Wherein lies the special superiority of the
Canadian Northwest; and why is it better than any other region ?
The answer is easily found. In the first place, those rolling, grassy
seas of rich prairie land, intersected with an endless succession of lakes
and sloughs »nd swales, are now, as they have been for ages in the past,
the spring and autumn haunts of the migratory water fowl that every
^spring leave the drowned lands, lagoons, and rice-fields of the south, and
[wing their long way over states and provinces, league after league, until
they have gained the lonely haunts in the north, where they breed. These
lakes, streams, and marshes are favorite feeding places of wild fowl, and'
(49) r0 FISHING AND SHOOTING.
they break the vast expanses of grass everywhere. There is a practically
inexhaustible supply of food, and consequently the birds return year
after year to the same points.
The prairies of the Western States, being very similar in many
features, once swarmed with game, and portions of them are yet good;
but the ravages of the horde of market hunters were so terrible, that
some of the best grounds over the border have been irretrievably ruined.
This is not the case in the Canadian territory, nor is it likely ever to be.
It is yet a new country; and, though settlers are rapidly taking up the
famous fat land, portions of it will always harbor wild fowl. Keen
sportsmen were among the first to seek the new land when it was opened
for settlement, well knowing what fields were there for the gun. They also
knew of the fatal attacks upon the game in.the States. Their turn came
after; and, profiting by the result of the deadly work on the^sister
prairies, they determined to save their game from a like fate by properly
protecting it. The value of their efforts is proved by the swarms of fowl
now in the ancient haunts.
And there is big game also in plenty. The buffalo is practically
extinct, 'tis true; but the giant moose, king of the deer tribe, yet haunts
many parts of the country where a proper amount of browse can be
found. The elk, caribou, jumping or mule deer, common deer, prong-
horn antelope, black and brown bears, gray wolf, lynx, coyote, fox,
wolverine, beaver, and several other animals valued for their furs, are
vet found in great numbers. But the great variety is among the
feathered game. Several species of grouse may be killed, including the
prairie chicken, pintail grouse, ruffed grouse, ptarmigan, and willow
ptarmigan, in the northern part of Western Canada, and the blue grouse
(cock of the mountains) in British Columbia.
Among the water fowl are the trumpeter and whistling swans; the
Canada goose, Ross's goose, lesser snow goose, and brant goose; the
Canada goose and the snow goose being the most numerous. The
mallard, black duck, canvas-back, redhead, pintail, gadwall, wood-duck,
wigeon, green-winged, blue-winged, and cinnamon teal, spoon-bill,
shoveler, golden eye, buffle-head, blue-bill, snipe, golden plover, and
fifteen other varieties of the same family, great flocks of curlew, and
many waders of lesser importance are found. About every marshy bit
the bittern and heron -will be seen, and in addition to these hundreds of
pelican, sand-hill cranes, coot, rail, etc., etc., too numerous to mention.
And now to point out a few of the many places where the game can
be easily got at. In the extreme east of Manitoba, in the immediate
vicinity of and between Rennie and Monmouth Stations, is an excellent
country for moose, perhaps one of the surest points easily reached from
Winnipeg; and here there should be no difficulty in securing specimens
of this, the greatest of Canadian deer. Bear (black) are also very
numerous; there are plenty of ruffed and spruce grouse, and a few
caribou. Sportsmen can travel comfortably by rail to these grounds
from Winnipeg in a few hours. From Winnipeg those looking for wing
shooting may reach the haunts of prairie chicken and grouse (pintails) by
driving a few miles out upon the prairie, and in the brush in the valleys
of the Red and Assiniboine Rivers numbers of ruffed grouse and sometimes rabbits will be found; but grouse shooting is somewhat difficult
owing to the thickness of the cover. Such a trip means starting earlv in
the morning and returning to Winnipeg in the evening; and the writer
enjoyed very good sport, following this method, for many days last fall now and then varying the fun by knocking over a few duck and snipe at
the sloughs.
Raeburn Station, on the Canadian Pacific, thirty-five miles west from
Winnipeg, is a place well worth a trial. There are plenty of duck on
the lake close by, and in ordinary seasons heavy bags are made. No
doubt it will be good for many years to come; though, owing to the fact
that it is so easily reached, it has to stand quite a cannonading occasionally.
A few " chickens'" frequent the higher parts of the prairie near this lake,
and plover are always available to help fill a bag. Some settlers'
houses are close by, and a number of useful skiffs are kept for hire.
Should the sportsman want to put in a couple of days or more under
canvas, he cannot do better than drive from Winnipeg forty miles northwest to Shoal Lake. On the way across, prairie " chickens " will demand
attention, and in the unsettled country on the north of the lake are a few
moose and elk, and many black-tailed deer. The lake is a great resort
for water fowl of all kinds common to the province, and for mixed
shooting it is Ai.
Another good point is Whitewater Lake, in Southern Manitoba,
reached from Winnipeg by a short trip over the Manitoba & Southwestern
Railway. Here " chickens," snipe, and plover are found in fair numbers,
and there are thousands of geese,* duck, crane, and other water fowl.
I will not soon forget the time spent here one fall, nor will the party who
were there assembled. One of them broke the action of his gun trying to
load in too big a hurry; another managed to blow the muzzle off a huge
" four-bore" trying to kill a whole flock of geese at once; while the
writer's " twelve-gauge " and a certain " heavy ten " roared for hours in
a fierce race to prove on crane, Canada, canvas-back, and " wavey" the
respective merits of little and big guns, and finally left the question
undecided. A number of skiffs are kept for hire on the lake, which is
reached from Boissevain Station. Near Whitewater are the Tiger Hills,
leading into the Pembina Mountains, haunted by elk, black-tailed deer,
and black and brown bear; it also being a good locality for grouse. Camp
outfit must be taken, but the sport will well repay all trouble, as ample
occupation can be found for both rifle and shot-gun. Lake Winnipeg
offers still stronger inducements. A choice of routes is offered to it,
either by paddling sixty miles to the mouth of Red River, or via Canadian
Pacific Railway to Selkirk, and then driving twenty-five miles to the lake.
The great marshes about the mouth of Red River extend for miles, and
form one of the largest duck grounds in the Northwest, and they
actually swarm with all kinds of water fowl in the season. Here the
sportsman can shoot till his gun gets too hot to hold, and, providing he
holds straight, kill enormous bags of choice duck. In the vicinity of
Fort Alexander, at the mouth of the Winnipeg River, are moose, caribou,
and bear, and the Winnipeg and English Rivers offer fascinating routes
and grand scenery, should a farther trip by canoe be decided on. Upon
the western shore of Lake Winnipeg moose, caribou, and bear will also
be found, and about Big Island and Grassy Narrows uncounted flocks of
geese resort. Lake Manitoba is also a noted place for water fowl —
which means that the birds are there in myriads. This latter lake is
reached from Portage la Prairie, or by buggy from Winnipeg, stopping
one night on the way at Shoal Lake, already mentioned; and in addition
to the geese, duck, etc., the game list includes " chickens," and moose, elk,
and black-tailed deer in the Riding Mountains. The town of Minnedosa
is another promising centre for " chicken," grouse, and rabbit shooting, 52
FISHING AND SHOOTING.
and from here the Riding Mountains may again be reached. The route
to Minnedosa is via Manitoba & Northwestern Railway from Portage la
Prairie. Carberry is situated in a fine country for " chickens " and duck.
Brandon is about the same, there being plenty of grouse, and a few deer
and bear in the bluffs. Capital " chicken " shooting will be found close
to Qu'Appelle, and there is a fine big game country north of it. From
Regina, Long Lake is reached, where duck and " chickens " will be found.
Rush Lake is one of the finest points for geese, duck, and other water
fowl in the entire country. They flock there in prodigious numbers, and
there is no place like it for a camping parly. Large bags can be made
here.
Oak Lake is another place where geese, duck, and plover may be
secured in numbers. The lake-is within an easy drive of the station, and
a party taking their tent, etc., can make their camp, and have time to place
themselves for the evening flight shooting. At the east side of the lake
there is good camping ground right in the line of flight, and on the north
side the geese leave the lake in
large numbers to feed in the neighboring wheat fields.
Farther west, again, is the antelope country; Swift Current,
Maple Creek, and Medicine Hat
being among the best outfitting
points for a trip after these, the
most beautiful animals of the
plains. At Calgary, in sight of
the "Rockies," superb sport can
be enjoyed with the grouse among
the brushy foot-hills of the giant
range. Any quantity of birds may
be found within easy driving distance of the town, and glorious
mountain trout fishing on the Bow
River and its tributaries, to say
nothing of the delights of visiting
the ranches and being entertained
by those princes of good fellows,
the ranchmen. North of Calgary
is the Red Deer region, a great
one for big game, though but seldom visited as yet.
So much for the sport of the prairies. We have now skimmed over
the great grassy sea, touching briefly on the most prominent of the many
localities to choose from, the intention being merely to give the stranger
a few hints of the wonderful resources of the country from a sporting
point of view.
Lying in the little tent beside the chosen water, on the first night of
his jaunt, the sportsman whiffs the last pipe, and his gaze tries in vain
to pierce the gathering mists and shadows creeping over the "level
waste and rounding gray " of apparently illimitable prairie. Before him
stand the tall battalions of rushes marking the boggy shores of the lake,
dark and mysterious, like a shadowy wall. The air is filled with the rush
of swift wings, as the restless fowl scurry hither and thither ere settling
down.    A strange but, to him, wondrous sweet medley of cries Comes
J THE CANADIAN NORTHWEST.
with the lazy breeze. The honk of goose, the quack of mallard, and the
chatter and gabble of unseen hosts, are the last sounds his ears detect as
he drifts into the shadowland, with a golden promise of glorious sport
with the dawn. The promise will be well fulfilled, for those same weird
cries and the hum of wings will begin ere the early breaking of the
northern day; and when night again falls there will be no apparent
diminution of the winged army, but he will have a well filled bag, such
as can only be made in this, the sportsman's El Dorado.
, It should not be forgotten that many of the lakes and streams of the
prairies are stocked with fine fish, including maskinonge, pike, pickerel,
etc., and they furnish, a pleasant change of occupation during weather too
warm for game to keep, or when it is desirable to give gun and rifle a rest.
Camping outfits, conveyances, helpers, and everything necessary for
a hunting excursion upon the plains, can be readily secured at Winnipeg,
and the sportsman need not burden himself with anything beyond his
personal effects. He can enjoy an unsurpassed train service so long as
he follows the railway, and should he diverge from the line, there are no
hardships to be undergone beyond what are sufficient to give a spice of
adventure to the experience of a holiday in the wilds.
Next to be considered are the "Rockies," the first of the five ranges
lying   between   the  great
prairie belt and the Pacific
Ocean.     Some  600 miles
of   the   grandest   scenery
must   be  passed   ere the
western sea is reached, and
nearly all of this chaos of
mountains is as wild as it
was when first the eyes of
white  man  were  startled
by   their    overpowering
grandeur.   Upon or among
these marvels of old-time
rock   building are the
favorite  haunts  of   every
" man-fearing or man-skeer-
ing" brute  known in the whole  country —elk, moose,  deer,  caribou,
Rocky  Mountain  sheep  and goat, panther, grizzly, black, and brown
bear, lynx, wolf, etc., etc., while water fowl abound upon many of the
mountain lakes, and several varieties of grouse are in the forests.    But
you would never come away over here for feathered game, when it may
be so easily got upon  the  plains.    You want big game —stately elk,
fierce bears, sneaky panthers, big-horned sheep, snowy goats, etc. ?   Very
good.    You can have them, one and all, and caribou and deer to boot,
providing you yourself are game to follow your guide.
Now, there are places without number among these mountain ranges
where a'man can find many of the varieties of the game mentioned; but
I will confine myself to a few, from which a sportsman may safely plan
his operations. First of these is Morley Station, situated among the
foot-hills a few miles from the entrance to the Rockies. Here the
needful outfit-of provisions, etc, can be secured, also a few Stony
Indians as guides, trackers, and helpers; and they will show the way to
I the haunts of sheep, goat, etc. Naturally the construction of the railway
drove the game back a short distance from the track; but the Stomes lX£aERHoU«.r"'»S
(54) "T&
THE CANADIAN  NORTHWEST.
know where the different species are to be found, and they are thoroughly
good hunters and perfectly reliable guides. Temporary accommodation
will be found at Morley.
The next important halting place is at Banff, in the Canadian
National Park, Rocky Mountains, where the railway company has erected
a palatial hotel. Should a brief sojourn here be decided upon, the
sportsman may.enjoy good duck shooting on the Vermilion Lakes, a.
short distance from the hotel, and fine mountain trout fishing on the Bow
and Cascade Rivers; also deep trolling for lake trout on Devil's Lake,
all within easy walking distance. White and Indian Guides can be
secured for extended trips into the mountains after bear, sheep, and goat,
to the north, south, or west; and the sportsman would be wise to
interview the government park ranger before starting, as in so doing he
would probably obtain valuable information.
Farther westward, at Field, is one of the company's inviting little
chalet hotels, and good fly fishing can be had; but it is hardly a desirable
point for shooting. Still farther west is the town of Golden, and from
here a steamer makes regular trips up the Columbia River to the lakes
at its head, distant about ioo miles, and affording access to a fine game
district. Westward, again, the next important stopping place is at the
foot of the Great Glacier of the Selkirks, where the railway company have
another of their comfortable mountain chalets, which, with its recently
added annex, can accommodate a large number of guests. Immediately
behind the hotel rises the forested height of Asulkan Mountain, Asulkan
meaning in the Siwash tongue " the home of the white goat." Securing
a guide here, you can climb the mountains with a certainty of a chance
at goat, sheep, or bear.
A new water, and one surely destined to become famous, is the Lower
Kootenay River, which teems with mountain trout of fair size. The few
who have tried it as yet agree that it is one of the best streams available,
while the scenery is simply superb. The country contiguous to it is well
stocked with big game, having only lately been rendered accessible. The
headwaters of the Kootenay Lakes and River rise a little west of Banff.
The river is in great part, below Nelson, a succession of cascades,
beautiful from a scenic point of view and abounding in rainbow trout,
from one pound upwards, that are greedy for the fly. It is an ideal
stream, rushing through gorges, and over rapids broadening into pools
and forming numerous "just the spots " into which, practically, any length
of line can be cast without the least obstruction from bushes or overhanging trees. And if possesses the inestimable advantage of being free
from mosquitoes and black flies. The Lower Kootenay is reached by
steamer from.Revelstoke Station, via the Columbia River and the lovely
Arrow Lakes. A month's outing in this region would be the beau ideal
of a sportsman's holiday. For the convenience of fishing parties visiting
the famous Kootenay District, the Canadian Pacific Railway Company
have built four fishing camps on the line of the Columbia & Kootenay
Railway, running along the Kootenay River between Robson and Nelson.
These camps have been erected solely for this purpose, and are fitted
for the comfort of fishing parties camping out on the river. The houses,
which have accommodation for four people, or for eight if they are provided with a tent,- are of wood, and are well and neatly built; have a
verandah overlooking the river, and are furnished with stationary bunks,
cooking stoves, etc. The camps are numbered and located as follows \
Camp  No.  i,  fifteen miles from Robson;  Camp No. 23 sixteen miles  THE CANADIAN NORTHWEST.
from Robson; Camp No. 3, seventeen and a half miles from Robson ;
Camp No. 4, five miles from Nelson (at railway B crossing).
Parties not wishing to be encumbered by carrying their own bedding
and camp outfits can be supplied by the company's agent at Robson
with new mattresses and pillows at a very small cost. In addition to
this, complete camp outfit, consisting of blankets, tents, cooking outfit,
such as pots, pans, plates, cups, knives and forks, etc., can be hired from
the company's agent for a small charge. Supplies of all sorts of
provisions of the best quality are kept in the company's own store at
Robson, and may be purchased at reasonable prices from the storekeeper. Good cooks can also be engaged at Robson to accompany
fishing parties.
The necessary camp outfits will be carried free between Robson and
the different fishing camps, and the trains each way between Robson and
Nelson will stop (when flagged) at all the fishing camps to take and put
off the fishing parties. In short, everything has been arranged with the
view of affording every comfort and facility to those who may wish to
spend a few days in the Kootenay district enjoying the fishing, which
is not surpassed anywhere on the continent. As very few fish are caught
under a pound weight, and running up as high as three and four pounds,
anglers should provide themselves with a gaff or landing net, and be
particular to see that their flies and tackle are good and strong.
Good hotel accommodation will be found at both Robson and Nelson,
and any further information will be cheerfully furnished on application to
Mr. John McLeod, company's agent at Robson.
There is good fishing also at several points nearer the coast. Tourists
stopping at Vancouver can get a good day's fly fishing at Coquitlam
River, seventeen miles by train to Westminster Junction, where there is
a good hotel.
Capilano Creek or Se'ymour Creek, about an hour's row across the
bay from Vancouver, offers a good day's sport, while at the mouth of
either stream sea trout weighing up to two and three pounds afford
excellent sport. In the months of August, September, and October, a
good day's sport maybe had trolling for salmon in the bay. Pacific
coast salmon will not rise to a fly, but as many as fifteen or twenty fish,
varying from five to twenty pounds, are sometimes killed in an afternoon
with the rod after being hooked with the troll hook.
Harrison Hot Springs is a pleasant summer resort about forty miles
from Vancouver, from which the angler can reach excellent waters. An
hour's row across Harrison Lake will take him to streams where more
trout can be killed in a day with fly than he would like to carry far.
Ashcroft and Sacond's Ferry on the Thompson River are good
waters where not only large catches are made, but where the bulk of the
Sch are big fish, the silver trout running from one to four pounds each,
and hard fighters.
conn
taru nenccib. ,_,      ,     .        ,
The trams of the Canadian Pacific can be taken to Revelstoke, where
ection is made with the  steamers  of the  Columbia & Kootenay
ertion is maue  wnu   ""-     . ,
taviga.ion Company, leaving Revelstoke ever, Monday and Fr.da,  at
"T" „,ivilg a. Robson same evening.   Retummg, steamers leave
l^li ^w,.    A»d again MgM |HggH| 58
FISHING AND SHOOTING.
California quail, are plentiful, and favorite game with the residents and
visitors. A short journey into the interior of the island will bring you to
the ranges of deer and bear, both being readily killed. Added to these
are several varieties of duck, etc., and last of all the English pheasant,
introduced several years ago, and now perfectly acclimated and thriving
wonderfully in the new land. The cry of "mark cock," or "ware hen,"-
may sound strange to many; but the newly arrived Briton knows right
well what it means, and what rare sport the long tails furnish; and it is
ten to one that he knows how to stop them, too.
And now, in conclusion, a few words about the country just covered.
The pursuit of what is generally dubbed by the craft " big game " in
the mountain wilds of Canada is no child's play. To be successful, a
man must possess iron nerve and unflinching determination; he must be
a good shot, and strong enough to stand rough work; for the latter is
frequently necessary before the game can be reached, and the former is
very liable to be an extremely useful accomplishment, especially if the
quarry happens to be a grizzly bear.
Sportsmen who have shot in the famous wilds of Africa and India are
apt to feel proud of their lion, tiger, and other handsome skins that
originally covered the works of some lithe and bloodthirsty big feline;
but, with all due respect to them and their prowess afield, I would sooner
have the hide of a grizzly
of my own killing than
half a dozen peltries of
" Leo " or " Stripes " or
any other cat that ever
\ jumped. Although un-
Vm doubtedly there have
been many occasions
when it was a nice question whether, at the close
of the affair, the tiger
would be carried into
camp of would find inside
accommodation for the
hunter, and although we
know that men hunting
in South Africa have
occasionally felt that a
lion looks best behind
the bars of a menagerie,
yet, as a rule, you can " pot" your lion over a carcass, and be yourself,
meantime, perfectly safe on some prepared post or natural stronghold;
you can bore holes between the stripes of the fur "blazer "worn by
his feline majesty of Bengal, while you yourself are squatted in a
howdah, strapped to the back of a twenty-odd-hand elephant, while a
tribe of bare-legged natives yell and scream and hoot to keep their
own courage up and drive the jungle prowler to the " Sahib." You will I
probably get the. tiger, and, should he charge, experience a temporary
excitement, but not often incur much danger.
Shooting the grizzly is other work.    The big plantigrade is always \
looking for trouble, and when he digs up the hatchet he goes on the war- i
path.    You will have no friendly elephant, nor army of beaters, to satisfy
his craving for somebody's scalp.  You start on his track, and follow him . THE CANADIAN NORTHWEST.
59
into his gloomy fastness amid a chaos of rocks, with your life in one
hand and your rifle in the other; and, unless you are made of the right
material, stop before the scent gets too hot, or peradventure you may be
found empty-handed by your party.
However, this spice of dan , or rather this danger spiced with a
chance of escape, is very fascinating; and, if you would fain be fascinated
BSsJlllllllillllllll
KOCKY   MOUNTAIN   SHEEP.
to your heart's content, seek the Rocky Mountains or British Columbia,
and enjoy your whim.
And such fields for sport. Not pen, nor brush, nor tongue can
convey the proper idea of the sublimity of those marvellous mountains ;
they are something too imposing for mere words; they must be seen and
studied. One must live among them and watch the glories of sunlight
upon their everlasting snows and glaciers; must climb their steeps and
breathe the cold, thin atmosphere of  those dizzy elevations, and train his eyes to measure soaring pinnacles and dark abysses ere he can realize
their stupendous grandeur. One must hear the thunderous voice of the
whirling storms amid their peaks; the avalanche tearing the forests from
their native slopes; the avulsion of crag and giant bowlder from-buttresses
frowning darkly above the clouds, and the booming echoes of waves of
mighty sound breaking against the walls of unmeasured ravines, ere the
full power of those matchless monuments of the old-time war of forces is
impressed upon the mind. And then the glory of laying low the game
that haunts them. Right well did the Indian hunter know what tested
manhood, when first he wrenched the great scimetar-shaped claws from
the broad fore-paw of the dead grizzly, and strung them around his neck
as a token to prove a man. Things have changed with time, the rifle
has supplanted the bow, but nothing has supplanted the grizzly; he is
there yet, and king of the wilds, and his claws are yet the proudest ornament the savage caja wear, and his skin the most valued trophy of the
white sportsman. Up above the grizzly's range are found the white
goats and the famous big-horn mountain sheep, both eagerly sought
after by sportsmen; the latter especially, owing to the extreme beauty of
their heads.
Except from bears the sportsman runs little chance of getting into
difficulty. True, it is claimed by some that the panther is an ugly customer, writers even going so far as to say that he is more dangerous than
even the grizzly, and sometimes proves his superiority in a dispute over a
carcass. Such statements I believe to be mere rubbish ; for the panther,
lithe and powerful though he may be, is, to my notion, a great, long-
tailed, be-whiskered coward; a bravo of most terrifying appearance, but
mighty careful of his handsome skin; in fact, what he is generally
termed by the herders and hunters — a big sneak-cat.
The handsomest game of the Rockies is, of course, the noble elk, or
wapiti. Their immense branching antlers, and the clean-cut, blood-like
appearance of their heads, make them particularly attractive ornaments
for a gentleman sportsman's home, and they are in great demand. The
species is now rare in many localities where they formerly abounded, but
they are still plentiful among the foot-hills of the Rockies, and they can
also be found in the Northwest Territories, and in Manitoba north of
Selkirk, and sometimes in the Duck and Riding Mountains.
Next to the elk ranks the caribou, and a royal quarry he is. They
are very plentiful about Eagle Pass, in the Selkirk range, and near the
Shuswap Lakes, and there should be no difficulty in securing fine specimens. They are found also in Manitoba, in the region between Lakes
Winnipeg and Manitoba, etc., and wonderful stories are told of great
herds in the Peace River country.
The several species comprising the game list mentioned above are
distributed throughout the mountains in greater or less numbers, being
plentiful wherever the conditions are favorable. More minute details
concerning them are impossible in a book of this nature, and unnecessary
as the game, except at a point here and there, is as abundant as it was
before the first rifle-shot woke the echoes of those monstrous canons.
The sportsman contemplating a trip by the Canadian Pacific Railway
across the continent to these fields of sport must bear in mind that heavy
weapons are needed for satisfactory work.    Lighter ones may do the
Indians kill grizzlies with the lightest Winchester rifles; but my advice
is to take a repeater of the heaviest make. Plenty of powder and lead
means sure work if the rifle is held right, and by using such you will lose
L THE CANADIAN NORTHWEST.
61
less wounded game, and greatly lessen the risk of a clawing from some
infuriated bear. The Indians, it must be remembered, are greatly your
superiors, both in the approach of, or retreat from, dangerous game;
they steal noiselessly and patiently upon their victim, and never fire
until they are at close range, and sure of dropping it in its tracks. You
will not be able to accomplish this, and therefore require a weapon that
will do deadly execution at any reasonable distance. Properly equipped,
you will drop your bear or elk cleanly and well; and when your holiday
is done, and you are speeding homeward by the " Royal Road, wrth
your muscles strong after glorious work, and your skin tanned by the
mountain air, you will think over every moment of your outing; of_the
■splendoi-of the sunrise, the magnificence of the scenery; the glaciers,
the torrents, and the thousand and one marvels of the wonderland you
have left; of your beautiful trophies, and, as you take your last backward
glance, and your straining eyes catch the last glint of the snow-dad peaks,
you will say, "My heart's in the mountains," unless, indeed, it should
happen to have been left on the prairies. CLOSE   SEASONS   FOR  CAME   AND   FISH.
SYNOPSIS of laws governing shooting and fishing in the Provinces
■ and States traversed by the Canadian Pacific Railway system.
Note. — The following condensations of the Game Laws, etc.,
have been carefully revised, and made as correct as possible up to the
date of the issue of this pamphlet. Owing to the fact that game laws are
frequently changed, absolute accuracy is not guaranteed.
PROVINCE   OF   ONTARIO.
Shooting. — Moose and caribou protected entirely until 15th October, 1895. ... No deer shall be hunted, taken, or killed between
November 15th and November ist following. . . . Beaver, muskrat,
mink, sable, marten, otter, or fisher, ist April to ist November.
Beaver, otter and fisher cannot be killed before ist November, 1897.
.... Quail and wild turkeys, December 15th to October 15th.
Turkeys cannot be killed before 15th October, 1897. . . . Grouse,
pheasants, woodcock, golden plover, prairie fowl, partridge, snipe, rail,
15th December to 15th September following. . . . Swans and geese,
ist May to 15th September. . . . Ducks of all kinds and other
water-fowl, 15th December to 15th September. No person shall kill
move than 300 ducks in one season. . . . Hare, 15th December to
15th September.
No person who has not been a resident of this Province or Quebec
for three months next before October 15th can kill deer, except he hold a
permit from the Commissioner of Crown Lands, which may be obtained
for 5to.    No person shall kill more than two deer.
No person shall kill or take any- moose, elk, reindeer, caribou, deer,
partridge, or quail, for the purpose of exporting the same out of Ontario.
No person shall sell any quail killed in Ontario before October 15, 1892.
Fishing. — Salmon, trout, and whitefish, between the ist and 30th
November. . . . Fresh-water herring, from 15th October to ist
December. . . . Speckled trout, brook trout, river trout, from 15th
September to ist April. . . . Bass and maskinonge, 15th April to
15th June. . . . Pickerel, 15th April to 15th May. No person shall
kill more than fifty speckled or brook trout in one day, or more than
aggregates in weight 15 pounds, or any trout less than five inches in
length. Smaller ones to be returned to the water. Not more than one
bass to be killed in one day, or any less than ten inches long.       w
PROVINCE   OF   QUEBEC.
Shooting. — Deer, from ist January to ist October. . . . Moose
and caribou, from ist February to ist September.
N. B. — The hunting of moose, caribou, or deer, with dogs or by
means of snares, traps, etc., is  prohibited.    No person  (white man or
Indian) has a right, during one season's hunting, to kill or take alive	
unless he has -previously obtained a permit from the Commissioner of
Crown Lands for that purpose — more than two moose, two caribou and
three deer. After the first ten days of the close season, all railways and
steamboat companies and public carriers are forbidden to carry the whole
or any part (except the skin) of any moose, caribou, or deer, without
being authorized thereto by the Commissioner of Crown Lands.
Beaver, mink, otter, marten, pekan, from ist April to ist November.
....    Hare, from ist February to ist November.    .    .    .    Muskrat
(only in the counties of Maskinonge, Yamaska, Richelieu, and Berthier)   \
(62) CLOSE SEASONS FOR GAME AND FISH.
63
snipe,
I from ist May to ist April following. . . . Woodcock,
partridge of any kind, from ist February to ist September. .
Black duck, teal, wild duck of any kind (except sheldrake, loo, and gull),
from ist May to ist September. . . . (And at any time of the year,
between one hour after sunset and one hour before sunrise, and also to
keep exposed during such prohibited hours, lures or decoys, etc.). . . .
Insectivorous birds, etc., protected between ist March and ist September.    .    .    .    It is unlawful to take nests or eggs at any time.
N. B. — Fine of $2 to $100, or imprisonment in default of payment.
(No person who is not domiciled in the Province of Quebec, nor in that
of Ontario, can at any time hunt in this Province without having
previously obtained a license to that effect from the Commissioner of
Crown Lands.    Such permit is not transferable.)
Fishing. — Salmon (fly-fishing), from 15th August to  ist February.
I   Speckled trout (salmo fontinalis), from ist October to ist January.
.    .    .    Large gray trout, lake trout, or ouananiche, from  15th October
to   ist   April Pickerel {dorS), from 25th May  to  ist July.
.    .    .    Bass and maskinonge, from 15th April to 15th June	
Whitefish, from 10th November to ist December.
No person who is not domiciled in the Province of Quebec can at any
time fish in the lakes or rivers of this Province, not actually under
lease, without having previously obtained a license to that effect from
the Commissioner of Crown Lands. Such licenses are only valid for the
time, place, and persons therein indicated.
PROVINCE   OF   NEW   BRUNSWICK.
Shooting. — Moose, caribou, deer, or red deer, from 15th January
to ist September. . . . Cow moose are protected at all times. . . .
No person shall kill or take more than one moose, two caribou, and three
deer or red deer, during any one year. . . . Beaver, otter, mink, sable,
and fisher, ist May to ist September. . . . Grouse or partridge, ist
December to 20th September. . . . Woodcock, ist December to ist
September. . . . Snipe, ist March to 15th September. . . . Black
duck, wood duck, and teal, ist May to ist September. . . . Other
ducks, brant, geese, and other water fowl shall not be hunted with artificial light, nor with swivel or punt guns, nor trapped or netted at any
time. . . . Sea-gulls are protected in the parish of Grand Manan at
all seasons; song-birds and insectivorous birds, entirely protected.
: No person, not having his domicile in the Province of New Brunswick,
shall be entitled to hunt or kill any game bird, or animal, or fur-bearing
animal, in the Province, without a license, which may be obtained from
the Provincial Secretary, Fredericton, N.B., or from the Chief Game
Commissioner, St. John, N.B., by payment of a fee of $20. License to
be in force for one year from the ist day of September in each year.
Officers of Her Majesty's service can obtain a license for $5.
Fishing. —Salmon (net fishing), 15th August to ist March. . . .
Salmon (angling), 15th August to ist February. . . . Speckled trout,
15th September to ist May. . . . Large gray trout, lunge, ouananiche,
and land-locked salmon, 15th September to ist May. The use of explosives or poisonous substances for killing fish is illegal.
PROVINCE   OF   NOVA   SCOTIA.
Shooting. —Moose and caribou, from ist February to 15th September. ... No person shall kill or take more than two moose and
four caribou during any one  year.   ...    No hunting of moose or 64 FISHING AND SHOOTING.
*—  — j -
caribou with dogs allowed. . . . Beaver, from ist April to ist
November. . . . Hare, from ist March to ist October. . . Otter,
mink, and furred animals, from ist May to ist November. . . Grouse
or partridge, from ist January to 15th September. . . . Woodcock,
snipe, and teal, from ist March to 20th August. . . . Insectivorous
birds protected at all times. . . . Non-residents of Nova Scotia must
take out license to shoot in the Province, obtainable from the Provincial
Secretary, or parties possessing needful authority.
Fishing. — Salmon, from 15th August to ist February, with fly.
.   .   .    Trout, land-locked salmon, from ist October to ist April.
PROVINCE   OF   MANITOBA.
Shooting. — None of the animals and birds hereafter mentioned in
this section shall be shot at, hunted, trapped, taken, or killed on any
Sunday, or between the dates named in any year, nor shall any coiflmon
carrier carry them, in whole or in part (except the skin), within the said
periods.
All kinds of deer, including antelope, elk, or wapiti, moose, reindeer,
or caribou, or their fawns, between ist December and ist October.
. . . The grouse known as prairie chickens and partridges, between
ist December and ist September. . . . Woodcock, plover, snipe,
and sandpipers, between ist January and ist August. . . . All kinds
of wild duck, sea duck, wigeon, teal, wild swan, and wild goose (except
the snow goose or wavey), between ist May and ist September. . . .
Otter, fisher or pekan, beaver, muskrat, and sable, between 15th May and
ist October.    .    .    .    Marten, between 15th April and ist November.
No birds or animals, excepting fur-bearing animals, shall be trapped,
nor shall any swivel guns, batteries, or night lights be used to kill swans,
geese, or ducks; nor shall any beaver or muskrat house be destroyed at
any time; nor shall poison or poisonous bait be exposed for any animal
or bird.
No eggs of the birds mentioned may at any time be taken or had in
possession. This act does not apply to Indians on their reserves. No
person or corporation shall at any time export any of the animals or
birds mentioned. Persons without a domicile in the Province must take
out a license, costing $25, to kill any of the animals or birds named;
but the minister may grant a free permit to a guest of a resident in the
Province.
Fishing. — Speckled trout, from ist October to ist January. . . .
Pickerel (dori), from 15th April to 15th May.
NORTHWEST   TERRITORIES.
Shooting. — Elk, moose, caribou, antelope, deer, or fawn, mountain
sheep or goat, or hare, from ist February to ist September.
Snipe, from ist May to 15th August. . . . Grouse, partridge, pheasant, or prairie chicken, ist February to ist September. . . . Wild
duck and geese, from 15th May to 15th August. . . . Beaver and
Otter, from 15th May to ist October. . . . Mink, fisher, and marten
from 15th April to ist November. . . . Muskrat, from 15th May to
ist November. These restrictions do not apply north of a line drawn
100 miles north of the North Saskatchewan River.
Fishing. — Speckled trout, from ist October to 1st Tanuary.
Pickerel (do?f), from 15th April to 15th May.
L CLOSE SEASONS FOR GAME AND FISH. 65
PROVINCE   OF   BRITISH   COLUMBIA.
Shooting.—Cow elk and hen pheasant protected at all times.
. . . Deer, elk, reindeer, caribou, mountain goat, mountain sheep,
and hare, from 20th December to 15th August. . . . Grouse, partridge, prairie fowl, California and Virginia quail, from ist February to
ist September . . . Cock pheasant, from ist February to ist October.
. . . Wild duck, from ist March to ist September. . . . Quail
and cock pheasant are protected entirely upon the mainland of British
Columbia until ist September, 1894. . . . Gulls are protected at all
times.
Fishing.—Trout, from 15th October to 15th March.
STATE   OF   MAINE.
SHOOTING—Moose, deer, or caribou, ist January to ist October.
. . . Deer on Mt. Desert Island, 1st January to ist November.
And no person shall have in his possession, between ist October and ist
January, more than one moose, two caribou, and three deer. . . .
Mink, beaver, sable, otter, fisher, or muskrat, ist May to 15th October.
Wood duck, black duck, dusky duck, sea duck, ist April to ist
September, except on sea coast. . . . Ruffed grouse, partridge, and
woodcock, ist December to ist September, and cannot be transported
out of the state at any season. . . . Pinnated grouse, commonly
called prairie chicken, ist January to ist September. . . . Quail, ist
December to ist October. . . . Plover, ist May to 1st August.
Insectivorous birds are protected at all seasons. Sunday is a close time
for all game and birds.
Fishing. — Land-locked salmon, trout, and togue, ist October to ist
May, excepting on St. Croix and tributaries, and waters in Kennebec
County, 15th September to ist May; also on certain streams around'
Rangeley Lakes, from ist July to ist May. . . . Citizens of the state,
however, may fish for and convey to their homes, during February, March,
and April, excepting on the Rangeley Lakes, black bass and white perch,
from ist April to ist July. . . . None of the fish named to be taken
at any time except in ordinary mode of angling with single-baited hook
or artificial flies. . . . Salmon, from 15th July to 1st April, but may
be taken with single-baited hook or artificial flies from ist April to 15th
September. . . . Land-locked salmon and trout not to be transported
except in possession of the owner, and not more than fifty pounds of both
together by one person.
STATE   OF   VERMONT.
Shooting. — Deer protected entirely until ist November, 1900.
. . . Mink, beaver, fisher, or otter, ist April to ist November. . . .
Woodcock, ist February to 15th August. . . . Quail, wood-duck,
and grouse, wild goose and wild duck, from ist February to ist September, but at no time may they be sent out of the state for traffic or gain.
Wild geese or ducks, ist May to ist September. . . . Insectivorous birds protected at all seasons.
Fishing. — Trout, land-locked salmon, trout or "longe" [the latter is
the local name for salmon or lake trout], ist September to ist May.
Black bass, ist February to ist June.   .   .   .   Bass under ten
inches must be returned to the water.   Wall-eyed pike [pike perch], pike,
I and pickerel, ist February to ist June. FISHING AND SHOOTING.
STATE   OF   MICHIGAN.
Shooting —Deer (upper peninsula), from 15th November to 25th
September. . . . Deer, elsewhere, from ist December to ist November.    .   .    .    Wild turkey, from ist December to ist November	
Prairie chicken, protected until ist September, 1894. . . . Woodcock,
partridge, ruffed grouse, from ist January to ist September. . . .
Quail, protected until ist November, 1894. . . . Duck, red-head,
blue-bill, canvas-back, widgeon, pintail, and wild geese and jack-snipe, -
from ist May to ist September. . . . Other duck, water fowl, and
snipe, from ist January to ist September. Game not to be shipped out
of state.
Fishing. —Speckled trout, land-locked salmon, grayling or California
trout, from ist September to 1st May. . . . Muskallonge, black bass,
white, strawberry, and green bass, from ist March to ist July. . . .
Trout, California trout, land-locked salmon or grayling, less than six
inches in length must not be taken.
STATE   OF   WISCONSIN.
Shooting. — Deer may not be killed lawfully between ist December
and 15th October following. . . . Otter, mink, and marten, ist May
to ist November. . . . Woodcock, quail, partridge, pheasant, prairie
chickens, and grouse of all kinds, squirrels, snipe, and all water fowl,
15th December to ist August.
Fishing. — Brook, rainbow, and mountain trout, ist September to
15th April. . . . Mackinaw or lake trout, 1st October to 15th January.
. . . Pike, ist March to ist May. . . . Black, green, and Oswego
bass, and maskinonge (or muskallonge), ist February to ist May. . . .
Whitefish (in inland lakes with nets)',-i.5th December to 10th November.
CANADIAN   PACIFIC   RAILWAY.
HEAD OFFICES, MONTREAL, CANADA.
W. C. Van Horne President Montreal.
T. G. Shaughnessy Vice-President       "
Charles Drinkwater Secretary       "
George Olds General Traffic Manager       "
Henry Beatty Manager Steamship Lines and Lake Traffic Toronto.
I. G Ogden Comptroller Montreal.
W. Sutherland Taylor. .. .Treasurer       "
D. McNicoll General Passenger Agent       "
C. E. E. Ussher Assistant General Passenger Agent       "
J. A. Sheffield Supt. Sleeping, Dining and Parlor Cars and Hotels      "
L. A. Hamilton Land Commissioner Winnipeg.
H. P. Timmerman General Supt., Atlantic Division St. John, N.B.
Thos. Tait General Supt., Ontario and Quebec Division Toronto.
C. W. Spencer General Supt, Eastern Division Montreal.
Wm. Whyte General Supt., Western Division Winnipeg.
Harry Abbott General Supt., Pacific Division Vancouver.
G. M-. Bosworth Asst. Ft. Traffic Man. 0.&Q..A.&E. Divisions...Toronto.
Robert Kerr Gen'l Ft. and Pass. Agt., W.&P. Divisions Winnipeg.
D. E. Brown Asst. Gen'l Ft. and Pass. Agt., W.&P. Divs Vancouver.
C. E. McPherson Asst. Gen'l Pass. Agt., Atlantic Division....St. John, N.B.
E. Tiffin General Freight Agent, Atlantic Division....       "       "
W. B. Bulling; Jr General Freight Agent, Eastern Division, etc Montreal.
J. N. Sutherl\nd General Freight Agent, Ontario Division Toronto.
A. C. Henry Purchasing Agent,  .Montreal-
H. L. Penny Auditor of Disbursements       '•
J. H. Shearing Auditor of Passenger Receipts       "
C. J. Flanagan Auditor of Freight and Telegraph Receipts       "
J. Oborne Supt. Car Service       «
G. S. Cantlib Acting General Baggage Agent       " AGENCIES.
Adelaide Aus.
Baltimore Md.
Bombay India
Boston Mass.
Brockville .....Ont.
Buffalo N.Y.
Calcutta India.
Chicago 111.
Colombo Ceylon.
Detroit Mich.
Glasgow Scotland.
Halifax N.S.
Hamilton Ont.
Hiogo Japan.
Honolulu H.I.
Hong Kong China.
Kobe Japan.
Liverpool Eng.I
London Eng.
London Ont.
Manchester Eng.
Montreal Que.
New York N.Y.
Niagara Falls N.Y.
Niagara Falls Ont.
Ottawa.. Ont.
Philadelphia Pa.
Portland  .Me..
Portland Ore..
Pt. Townsend ,.Wash..
Quebec Que..
Rangoon  Burmah..
S. Ste. Marie Mich..
St. John N.B..
St. Paul Minn..
San Francisco Cal.
Seattle Wash.
Shanghai China.
Sherbrooke Que.
Sydney Aus..
Tacoma Wash..
Toronto Ont..
Vancouver B.C..
Victoria B.C..
Winnipeg Man..
Yokohama Japan..
Agents Oceanic Steamship Co.
. .H. McMurtrie, Fr't and Pass. Agent, 203 East German St.
. .Thomas Cook & Son r3 Rampart Row.
( H. J. Colvin, N. E. P. A Ig7 Washington St.
( G. A. Titcomb, City Pass. Agent....    " " "
. ■ Geo. E. McGlade, Ticket Agent 145 Main St.
.. E. P. Allen, Fr't and Pass. Agt 14 Exchange St.
..Thos. Cook & Son n Old Court House St.
J. Francis Lee, D.F.&P. Agent, 232 South Clark St.
. .Jardine, Matheson & Co.
( C. Sheehy, Dist. Pass. Agent n Fort St., West.
j Geo. R. Van Norman, Dist. Pass. Agt. " "
. .Archer Baker, European Traffic Agent 25 Gordon St.
..C. R. Barry, Ticket Agent 126 Hollis St.
.-W. J. Grant, Ticket Agent 8 James St., South.
..Frazar & Co.
. .T. H. Davies & Co.
. .Edward Holloway, General Agent China and Japan.
.. Frazar & Co.
.. Archer Baker, European Traffic Agent 7 James St.
S Archer Baker, European Traffic Agent { 67&6S KingWil-
( I r i    ham St., E.C.
. .T. R. Parker, Ticket Agent  1 Masonic Temple.
. .Archer Baker, European Traffic Agent... .105 Market St.
..Wm. F. Egg, Dist. Pass. Agent 266 St. James St.
E. V. Skinner, General Eastern Agent... .353 Broadway.
J. Ottenheimer, Land and Emigration Agt... 1 Broadway.
E. Frazar, China and Japan Fr't Agent 124 Water St.
. D. Isaacs, Ticket Agent Prospect House.
• Geo. M. Colburn Clifton House.
•J. E. Parker, City Pass. Agent 42 Sparks St.
H. McMurtrie, F. & P. A..
) Corner Third and
j n. iviciuunnt, r. <* jr. « J     Chestnut Sts.
.M. L. Williams, Maine Central R.R.
.W. S. Hineline, F. and P. A. r46 First St.
.James Jones 90 Taylor St.
.J. W. Ryder, Freight and Pass. Agent...St. Louis Hotel.
.Thos. Cook & Son Merchant St.
-T. R. Harvey 37 Ashmun St.
.H. Perley, Ticket Agent Chubb's Corner.
.C. E. Dixon 183 East Third St.
M. M. Stern, Dist. Fr't and Pass. Agt Chronicle Bldg.
D. B. Jackson, Pass. Agent 4 New Montgomery St.
, Goodall Perkins & Co. .. I JO Market St
I, Pacific Coast Steamship Co )
. E. W. MacGinnes  Starr-Boyd Building, Front St.
.Jardine, Matheson & Co.
.Geo. Duncan, Ticket Agent 6 Commercial St.
.Agent Oceanic S. S. Co.
.W.R.Thompson, Freight and Pass. Agt., 901 Pacific Ave.
.W. R. Callaway, Dist. Pass. Agent 1 King St., E.
.G. McL. Brown, Ticket Agent.
-Allan Cameron, Fr't and Pass. Agent Government St.
.W. M. McLeod, City Ticket Agent 471 Main St.
.Frazar & Co., Agents for Japan	
Messrs. Thos. Cook &
Canadian Pacific Railway, and
Son, Tourist Agents, are also authorized Agents of the
can supply tickets and information. <~%f#
CALENDAR
I
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sssHsasa MEMORANDA. Canadian Pacific Rg.
TBlegraptiS.
The telegraph system of the C.P.R. not only
extends along the entire length of the railway,
but also reaches every point of importance
off the line of Railway in the Dominion of
Canada.
The COMMERCIAL CABLE CO. (Mackay-
Bennett system) gives the C.P.R. the most
direct connection with Europe.
The Postal Telegraph Co. of New York and
San Francisco enables the C.P.R. to reach all
important points in the United States.
To ensure quick despatch to all points, see
that your telegrams are written on O. P. R.
Telegraph Blanks, and are handed in at C.P.R.
offices.
Head Office, MONTREAL.
CHAS. R. HOSMER,
MANAGER  TELEGRAPHS. S=S5^
R  SEfiSIfiliE  J^OilD.
 THE	
Canadian •••• Pacific 1 Railway
Is The -
Most Substantial and Perfectly Built Railway on the Continent of America, and superbly equipped with the finest rolling stock modern skill can
produce. Coaches, Dining and Sleeping Cars are triumphs of luxurious
elegance, and excel in stability and beauty of finish any in the world.
TOURISTS
Will find the New Route through Canada from the Atlantic to the Pacific
unapproached for magnificence and variety of scenery by any other line
of travel. The rugged wilderness of the North Shore of Lake Superior,
the picturesque Lake of the Woods Region, the Billowy Prairies of the
Canadian Northwest, the stately grandeur of the Rockies, the marvels of
the Selkirks and Gold Range, the wondrous beauty of the Pacific Coast
are traversed by this Great Railway. Beyond its western terminus its
magnificent and recently built steel steamships (China and Japan Line)
traverse the Pacific to Yokohama, Shanghai and Hong Kong at express
speed. Being entirely controlled and managed by one Company, the
Canadian Pacific Railway and steamships offer special advantages to all
travellers. It is the Best, the Safest and Fastest Route from Ocean to
Ocean. The Company have spared no expense in providing for the
wants and comfort of their patrons, as their line of Dining Cars and
Mountain Hotels will at all times testify, being supplied with all that the
most fastidious can desire.   Their
TRANSCONTINENTAL SLEEPING CARS
Are provided, with Sofa Sections and Bathing Accommodation, and offer
all the comfort and convenience of first-class hotels. They are specially
constructed to admit of the scenery being viewed in all directions.
TICKETS AT RATES LOWER THAN BY ANY OTHER LINE
Can be purchased from any Agent in the UNITED STATES
or CANADA.
INSIST ON GETTING YOUR TICKETS VIA THE
When agents are unable to supply tickets to the desired point, purchase to Montreal,
Toronto, Prescott, Vancouver or any station on the Canadian Pacific Railway, and there
apply to this company's agents.
Full particulars as to routes and rates, maps, pamphlets, etc., can be obtained on
application to
C. E. McPHERSON, Ass't Gen'l Passenger Agent,
197 Washington St., Boston, and St. John, N.B.
E V. SKINNER, Gen'l Eastern Agent, 353 Broadway, New York.
'"     - -ai.
icago.
W.^Rt CALLAWAY, District Pass'r Agent, 1 King Street E., Toronto.
R KERR, Gen'l Pass'r Agent, W. & P. Divs., Winnipeg.
D. E. BROWN, Ass't Gen'l Pass'r Agent, W. & P. Divs., Vancouver, B.C.
M' M. STERN, Chronicle Building, San Francisco, Cal.
ED HOLLOWAY, General Agent China and Japan, Hong Kong, China.
ARCHER BAKER, European Traffic Agent,
7 James street, Liverpool, England.
25 Gordon Street, Glasgow, Scotland.
67 and 68 King William, London, E. G, England.
103 Market Street, Manchester, England.
D.  McNICOLL,  Genera/ Passenger Agent, MONTREAL.
C. E, E. USSHER, Ass't Gen'l Passenger Agent, Montreal. Ipecihl Publications •
a    sh 9        •
ISSUED BY THE
PASSENGER DEPARTMENT
OF THE
Canadian pacific {(ailtoaij.
"The New Highway to the Orient."
I    "Summer Tours."
Time-Table with Notes"
a
Also  a  Complete- and Valuable illustrated series treating  of the
Agricultural   Capabilities   of   Western   Canada;   others
devoted to the  Company's Hotels, also the new
Wg§fWAE0  T@  THE  W&M  m&M'S'.
(A guide to Japan and China.)
And a new "AROUND THE WORLD" Folder Map —the Northern
Hemisphere in spherical form—showing the Canadian Pacific Railway
Company's round-the-world tourist route.
The first two are handsomely illustrated, and contain much useful
information in interesting shape. The time-table with notes, and the
Japanese Guide, will be found valuable companions for all travellers.
Copies of any or all of these may be obtained Free from Agents of the
Company.
RSJ$ FO$ TfiEM,
or for tickets or any information.
W. F. EGG, District Passenger Agent, 266 St. James Street, Montreal.
W. R. CALLAWAY, District Passenger Agent, 1 King Street E., Toronto
C. E. McPHERSON, Ass't Gen'l Passenger Agent,
197 Washington Street, Boston, and St. John, N.B
E. V. SKINNER, General Eastern Agent, 353 Broadway, New York.
J. F. LEE, District Freight and Passenger Agent, 232 South Clark Street, Chicago, 111
C. SHEEHY, District Passenger Agent, n Fort Street W., Detroit, Mich.
R. KERR, General Passenger Agent, W. & P. Divs., Winnipeg, Man.
D. E. BROWN, Ass't Gen'l Passenger Agent, W. & P. Divs., Vancouver, B.C
M. M. STERN, District Passenger Agent, Chronicle Building, San Francisco Cal
ARCHER BAKER, European Traffic Agent, 67 King William St., London, E. C., Eng.
D, McNICOLL, General Passenger Agent, Montreal. Canadian Pacific Railway Go's
f win-Screw Steamships.
I Royal Mail Route to Japan Jj China.
Tnls New Line of Steamships consists of the
"Empress of India," "Empress of Japan," "Empress of China."
(6,000 TONS EACH.)
YOKOHAMA,  SHANGHAI,  and  JAPAN.
In 1891 these magnificently equipped vessels were an experiment; in
1892 they are admittedly one of the greatest successes of the Mercantile
Marine. They have brought Japan -within ten days of Vancouver. They
have made the passage across the Pacific a pleasure trip, and added additional attraction to the now fashionable trip to Japan.
In connection with the Canadian Pacific Railway's Transcontinental
Line, they have enabled the tourist from the Eastern States to allow himself one month in Japan out of a sixty days' vacation.
The route from Vancouver is 300 miles shorter than any other trans-
Pacific route, and Vancouver is several hundred miles nearer to the Atlantic
than any other Pacific port.
The steamships, built under contract with the Imperial Government to
carry the Royal Mails, have developed a speed of over 19 knots per hour.
They are each 6,000 tons burden, 485 feet in length and 51 feet in breadth
and are propelled by twin screws, the engines being triple expansion.
Special attention has been paid to strength and safety. The hulls, in
addition to having double bottoms extending their full length, are divided
into numerous water-tight compartments, thus rendering them practically
unsinkable.
The cabins are large and roomy, and contain all the modern Improve-
ments ; paany new features being added. No expense has been spared in the
luxurious fittings. The promenades are extensive and free from obstructions. The saloons, smoking rooms, social halls and all passenger accommodations are amidships, and surpass anything afloat. The vessels are
lighted throughout with electricity. In a word, modern marine architecture
has in these palaces excelled itself.
STEAMSHIPS LEAVE VANCOUVER, B.C., EVERY THREE OR FOUR WEEKS.
For Sailings, Rates, Berths, and Information, apply to
R. KERR, Gen'l Pass'r Agent, W. & P. Divs., Winnipeg.
D. E. BROWN, Ass't Gen'l Pass'r Agent, W. & P. Divs., Vancouver, B.C.
C. E. McPHERSON, Ass't Gen'l Pass'r Agent,
St. John, N.B., and 197 Washington Street, Boston.
E. V. SKINNER, General Eastern Agent, 353 Broadway, New York.
W. F. EGG, District Pass'r Agent, 226 St. James Street, Montreal.
J. F. LEE, District Pass'r Agent, 232 South Clark Street, Chicago.
C. SHEEHY, District Pass'r Agent, n Fort Street W., Detroit, Mich.
W. R. CALLAWAY, District Pass'r Agent, 1 King Street E., Toronto.
M. M. STERN, District Pass'r Agent, Chronicle Building, San Francisco, Cal.
HOED. HOLLOWAY, General Agent China and Japan, Hong Kong, China.
ARCHER BAKER, European Traffic Agent,
■ft: 7 James Street, Liverpool, England.
25 Gordon Street. Glasgow, Scotland.
67 and 68 King William, London, E. C, England.
105 Market Street, Manchester, England.
D. McNICOLL, Gen'l Passenger Agent, Montreal.
C. E. E. USSHER, Ass't Gen'l Pass'r Agent, Montreal.
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