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Temagaming : a glimpse of the Algonquin paradise Canadian Pacific Railway Company Mar 2, 1901

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J~'?o/J       ^<s"~
TEHAGAniNG
A    GLIflPSE   OF
THE
ALGONQUIN
PARADISE
OBISAGA    NARROWS
ISSUED  BY
THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY
COMPANY.
MONTREAL,   FEBRUARY,   1901 TEMAGAMING
A    GLIMPSE
oF   THE
ALGONQUIN
PARADISE
CAMP  SCENE—BASS  LAKE.
ISSUED  BY
THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY
COMPANY.
MONTREAL, February, 1901. INDEX.
Tecniskaming	
Haileybury	
Sharp Lake.	
Mud Lake	
Clear Lake	
Montreal River	
Ray Lake	
Mattawabika	
Lady Evelyn	
Menjamatosipi	
Sucker Gut •
Diamond Lake	
Sharp Rock Portage .  .
Temagaming	
Sandy Inlet	
Kokomis	
Obabika.	
Rear Island	
Ko-ko-ko-o	
Cross Arm	
Caribou Lake	
Net Lake 	
White Rear Lake	
Rabbit Lake	
Metabetchewan River .
Page
11
14
16
18
18
19
19
20
21
22
23
24
24
24
24
24
25
25
TEMAGAMING
A GLIMPSE OF
THE   ALGONQUIN PARADISE
] H E R E were three of us in the club smoking room that stifling August evening,
and the reek of as many cigars hung
heavily, for not a breath of air found its
way through the open windows. The
artist was the first to break the silence.
"New York is'nt fit to live in during
the dog days, the heat is simply intolerable. What do you
fellows say to going somewhere? "
"I'm willing," said the President. "And me," " and me,"
chimed in the others.
"Then that's as good as settled," continued the artist—and
he called for maps, time-tables, and guide-books so that they
might decide upon their destination without delay.
The session lasted far into the night, and in the end the
Globe Trotter's arguments carried the day. He had said, "I
have seen half the world, including Hoboken, New Jersey, and
the best summer resort I know of lies some three hundred miles
west of Montreal, within the Temiskaming region. The air is
always clear and cool, the scenery enchanting, the fishing and
hunting superb, and the necessary expenditure to reach it
moderate. The pick of the country is Lake Temagaming, forty
miles west of Temiskaming. The latter's position may be fixed
in the mind, by noting that its foot is thirty miles north of
Mattawa, a station on the main line of the Canadian Pacific
Railway. A branch line owned by the same Company connects with the lake. At the foot of the lake is Temiskaming
station, near which stands a thoroughly modern hotel, the Bellevue. Parties without canoes may usually hire them here,
but if not, there are always some to be had at Mattawa, Kip-
pewa or Haileybury. Those who prefer Peterboro canoes must,
however, procure them elsewhere, as there are very few on the
lakes.''
This clinched the matter, and the next two days were spent
in getting ready, but on the evening of the second they
gathered together at the Grand Central, and boarded the night
express for Montreal.
Not long afterwards they found themselves standing on the
verandah of the Bellevue Hotel, enjoying the beauties of lovely
Lake Temiskaming, and the excellent fare and accommodation
tendered by the ever genial manager. THE  ALGONQUIN  PARADISE
HAILEYBURY
" I think this place is perfectly lovely," cried Mrs. President
enthusiastically (she had insisted on being one of the party),
" and I am half inclined to stay here."
"It is a painter's dream," said the artist; "and I find the
wild beauty of that Long Sault rapid perfectly satisfying—the
sunset effects must be grand so far north."
"I can quite understand your enthusiasm." rejoined the
Globe Trotter, "and were Ian artist should feel as you do,
but being merely an ordinary mortal and a keen fisherman, I
will willingly exchange Temiskaming for Temagaming. Don't
forget the latter was the Algonquin Heaven ; when a brave of
that nation died, his last wish was that a dusky Charon should
paddle him to Temagaming, for he could imagine nothing
fairer."
" These names are puzzling, what do they mean in English ?"
asked Mrs. President.
S.S.   METEOR  AT  HAILEYBURY,   ONT.
" Temiskaming means the place where there is deep and
shallow water ; and Temagaming, the lake of the deep waters.
When you shall have seen the latter you will understand why
the beauty of its fiord-like bays and rocky shores forces even
the passing Indian to pause."
The mail steamer Meteor, of the Lumsden Line, was already
vomiting streams of black smoke from her funnel, and the party
had to tear themselves away from the luxuries of the Bellevue.
" Captain Redmond won't care to wait, and we must not miss
the boat, for our guides expect us at Haileybury to-morrow
morning," had said the Globe Trotter ; and being thus commandeered, there was nought left but to obey.
Temiskaming lay calm as the proverbial mill-pond on that
summer's afternoon. The scene, as viewed from the lofty
promenade deck of the steamer, was attractive enough to occupy
the entire attention of each of the little groups of passengers
which occupied that elevated platform.
The Globe Trotter having been there before had to play the
part of cicerone. " That point on the Quebec shore is Opimican,
or rather Obimikon, which means the narrows of the road or
route. In the Ojibway tongue, the prefix Ob invariably means
the same thing, i.e., a narrow channel or pass. This Opimicon
is twelve miles from the foot of the lake, and the home-port of
the Lumsden Line. The creek, whose mouth you see over
there on the Ontario Shore, is the Opimicon itself—a good trout
stream, and a means of reaching a fine moose country."
Later on the mouth of the Montreal was passed; Bonner's
farm, with the picturesque Beaver House mountain close behind, making a pretty view—and one that every true Kodaker
on board would not have missed for a mine.
" That's where we shall come out," said the Globe Trotter,
" but if all goes well our men will ere that have paddled us
through two hundred miles of the loveliest lake and river
scenery on this continent."
" And that's where I caught several five pound bass last summer, and where I mean to catch as many more this year," said
a tall New Yorker, as he slung himself, and his armful of rods
and tackle, into the skiff that was to take him ashore.
" Don't catch them all," shouted the President between his
hands, as the boat drew away from the steamer's side, " leave
a few for us to take as we come out.''
"Never fear," was the laughing reply, "they're thicker
than pretty girls at a candy spree."
Four hours after leaving the wharf at railhead, the Hudson's
Bay post at Old Fort Temiskaming narrows is reached ; a place
of wondrous historical interest—almost hallowed ground to the
student of Canadian history. For generations it was the outpost of civilization ; behind it lay the wisdom, the comforts
and the experience of the centuries—all beyond was stern,
solitary and savage.
Just as the sun sank behind the blue forest-covered Ontario
hills the steamer tied up for the night at Ville Marie, an enterprising French Canadian village, two and a half miles above the
post.
1i What a perfect evening,'' said the President between whiffs
—the gentleman were all smoking on deck, and it was 10.00
P.M. " The after glow has hardly died, and already the
Northern Lights have taken its place.''
Before 6.00 o'clock next morning the Meteor's whistle was
blowing, to announce to all whom it might concern that she was
off to Haileybury. This roused the Artist and the President, and
they were soon on deck. The Globe Trotter did not appear
until the steamer was passing a point on the Quebec shore,
whereon stood a cottage such as Newport knows, and in the
roadstead, a manificent sloop yacht at anchor. The Artist
rubbed his eyes, " What does that mean—am I dreaming? "
" Not necessarily," laughed the steamer's Captain, who overheard him, " that is the summer residence and yacht of a Philadelphia gentleman, who has been a regular visitor each summer
for many years. He is a great fisherman and hunter, and is
said to be very successful."
There was just sufficient time to do justice to an ample breakfast, and then Haileybury was in full view on the portfbow. THE  ALGONQUIN  PARADISE
HAILEYBURY
As the steamer drew near, the entire male population flocked to
the beach. Prominent among a crowd of guides was Pierrot—of
the smiling face—an Indian who had guided the Globe Trotter
on a previous occasion. Pierrot knew that such trips are neither
hard nor exacting ; that is as compared with trapping or log
driving, and like every other guide worth his salt, was as keen
to go as is a young pointer to follow the gun.
" I like to see you. I very glad," and he shouldered a hundred weight of duffle with the ease of a practised voyageur, and
led the way to the hotel.
Then they went to the store, completed their outfits, and
hired three canoes and five additional men. There were lots to
choose from, but they picked good Indians, and had nothing to
regret on that score.
In addition to Pierrot, canoemen, trapper, lumberman,
farmer, and humorist, the guides were Antoine Kat, one of the
most expert of " white water men "  and guides ; Pien Misabi,
PETER  WHITE  AND   FAMILY—BAY  LAKE.
a fat, good natured giant, never weary of wrell doing ; Frank
Lemire, a taciturn, quiet hunter, more of theFennimore Cooper
type than is usual among the OjibwTay ; Micen Kat, son of
Antoine, and Bill, a half-breed cook, with a surname that would
dislocate any untrained jaw, and so was voted superfluous.
Haileybury is not so large a place as it is going to be, but,
nevertheless, boasts an hotel, a real English church, a parson,
a sawmill, and many thousand acres of excellent clay lands in
its immediate neighborhood. Mr. C. C. Farr, an ex-Hudson's
Bay officer, was the founder of this settlement, and he was
fortunate in attracting a very superior class of settlers, many
being men of education and means.
'' And where are you going to drag us now'', Mr. Globe
Trotter ", asked Mrs. President, as she surveyed a huge collection of bags, sacks, canoes, and duffle, which was being loaded
into a couple of wagons at the store door.
" Well, the fates being propitious, you will sleep to-night on
a balsam couch by the shores of Ajicki sakaigan, which being
interpreted into the vulgar tongue becomes Mud Lake. That is
if you are man enough to foot it for a mile or two, as a buggy
may not be driven quite to Sharp Lake, though a strong wagon
can go there."
The lady tossed her head scornfully. "I play Golf," said
she; and then kept silence for two whole minutes.
Shortly before 2.00 p.m. the caravan started. A buggy containing Mr. and Mrs. President headed the procession, then came
a couple of carts, with the Artist and Globe Trotter as an escort,
lastly the guides, carrying the inverted canoes, resembling
turtles with rather long legs more than anything else. For
three whole miles this order was preserved, then the guides got
off a joke, they would'nt miss for worlds. Mr. and Mrs. President, the Artist, and the Globe Trotter were sent on afoot with
the wagons; the buggy w7as headed for Haileybury under the
charge of a self-reliant youth of some fifteen summers, and
approximately the same number of winters, and then the crafty
guides slipped over a short cut known only to members of the
fraternity, and were found calmly smoking their short pipes by
the lake side when the party arrived. (N. B.—As usual this
joke drew down the house).
Here everyone was served with an awe-inspiring document
by the fire-ranger, who lies in wait at this point for his victims.
Nobody paid much attention to it just then, but later on, when
the need of intellectual pabular was making itself felt, all hands
read and re-read those solemn words of warning, and doubtless
derived much comfort and strength by so doing.
Being a true daughter of Eve, Mrs. President said to this fire
dignity, " Mr. H., why did they call this sheet of water ' Sharp
Lake ? ' " Mr. H. looked puzzled, but after catching his breath
and gasping a brief second, came gamely to time with, '' Why,
whatever else could they call it, Mam ?'' Which has always
appeared to the male members of the party as a most lucid and
convincing explanation.
The canoes were soon loaded, as quickly manned, and then
the fun began. Four gigantic trolling spoons revolved like
Catherine wheels behind the canoes, and hardly had the lines
been let out to their limit, than four lusty fish wrere trying their
best to smash the stout steel hooks, or to break the enamelled
silk lines.
Mrs. President would surely have fallen overboard in her
excitement had not Pierrot, the stoic, saved the situation by
gently, but firmly, grasping the rod.
At first the fish would not be persuaded, then after a bit its
struggles became less frantic, and coil after coil of the long line
was recovered by the reel.
" What likes it is," mused Pierrot. "Ah, pickerel, jus' like
chipmunk—takes ebberthing that comes along." And in due
time the unfortunate dore was ladled out with the landing net
and its sufferings ended by a rap on the head. The other rods
all had pike on, and each man secured his fish. The President
on seeing his wife's catch, cried, "Why, what in thunder is
that fish, it's certainly not a pickerel! "
"That's pickerel," said Pierrot doggedly. "Been catching
them all my life ; spose I ought to know." THE  ALGONQUIN  PARADISE
BROWN'S   POINT.
MASKALONGE.
To avoid bloodshed the Globe " trotter " interfered. " That
fish is a wall-eyed pike (Stizostedium vitreum), known to the
French-Canadians as dore, on account of the golden sheen on
its scales when fresh from the water.    It is called pickerel by
the white settlers
because they take a
morbid delight in
mangling the names of
every beast, fish, reptile and bird. Its just
as bad in the States ;
as instances, I may
mention 'robin,'
'buffalo,' 'partridge'
'coot,' and 'quail,'
and could easily add
dozens of names. As
to pickerel, there
are none so far as I know in northern Ontario or northern
Quebec. But in spite of its masquerading under false colors,
our 'pickerel' is a fine table fish, better than the pike and
equal to the black bass."
The artist was the first to tire. "Enough is as good as a
feast," said he, reeling in his line, and he forthwith began to
sketch. Presently he laid down his pad and said, '' there is
just one point in which this lake is deficient—I don't see any
duck; and a backwoods lake without duck is something no
artist even dreams of painting.''
" There is no feed for duck," explained the Globe Trotter,
'' deep lakes with rocky shores present no attractions to any
but the fish eating fowl. Later on you will see plenty, for the
Montreal river, from Bay Lake to Lady Evelyn, especially that
portion above Mattawabika, is very fair ducking water. When
you need duck seek them in shallow bays, with muddy bottom."
Pierrot had evidently been listening to these remarks, '' Gentleman, are you want 'em duck ? "
'' Do you know where they are ? ''
" Of course—don't you be too sorry, gentleman, 'cause you
seen no duck here. You go up that portage (pointing to some
spots on the west side of the lake), and pretty soon you see
duck to beat sixteen of a kind.    Call 'em Moose Lake."
'' How far is it ? "
'' Spose twro miles ? ''
" Well, if I come this way again after September 1st, I'll take
a look in, but I never shoot game out of season; " and the
artist settled himself comfortably against the centre bar of the
canoe, with the resigned smile of a beatified saint.
The president wTas suddenly taken with an aggravating cough,
but nothing more was said.
I he birch-barks, driven by some of the best muscle of the
northland, soon reached the foot of the lake, and the half-mile
portage into Ajicki sakaigan, over a superb trail, occupied but
a few minutes. Camp was pitched on Brown's Point, facing
the portage leading to the Montreal river. A more romantic
spot could not have been chosen, though the beauty of the site
had not, of course, been the determining factor. Pierrot's
quick eye had spied a certain dry pine, ripe and dry, and ready
for the axe, and he decided to camp near it.
In a marvellously short time the men had everything in
order ; tents pitched and supper cooked. After it had beeri
eaten, all hands gathered around the glorious fire, for near the
height of land between the Saint Lawrence waters and those
flowing to Hudson's Bay, the nights are seldom anything but
cool. The afterglow lingers long in these northern latitudes of
a fine August evening, and wrhile it lingers, the poor mortal
beholding it seems indeed transported into a fairer and more
peaceful land than that of his every day, humdrum life. But
to attempt a description were puerile ; no mere verbal sketch
ever yet gave an adequate conception of such a scene. The
towering peaks of the Canadian Rockies, the irresistible might
of the deep seas in a gale, and the peaceful calm of a northern
forest at sunset, are far beyond the reach of any human pen.
It was barely 5.00 A.M. when the party were aroused by
Pierrot. He had been instructed to prepare for a side-trip into
Clear Lake, a marvellous lakelet of pellucid green water, amply
stocked with black bass of the rare old fighting breed. Camp
was not struck, and but two canoes, and the rods and lunch
basket taken. A few minutes paddle, followed by a portage of
seven hundred yards, brought the fishermen to Clear Lake.
This sheet of water is somewhat less than a mile in length, but
for its size it yields a surprisingly large number of black bass
each season, perhaps because the greater number of anglers
have heretofore passed it by in their anxiety to reach more
famous waters. When the canoes came together at the luncheon
ground, each rod had an average of half a dozen bass, weighing
from one pound to two pounds apiece, and several pike.
" I thought I had on a maskalonge when 1 hooked that fellow," said the President, eyeing a twenty-seven inch pike his
guide was taking from the canoe.  '' Never before have I known
a pike to make the fight
he did.     Three times he
jumped   and shook   the
as a terrier shakes
spoon,
a rat.''
'' Unfortunately there
are, so far as I can find
out, no maskalonge in
this part of Canada,"
chimed in the Globe
Trotter, "though, of
course, there may be lots pike.
of   them   awaiting   identification."
"And how may they be identified?" asked Mrs. President.
" There is but one sure test. The maskalonge has scales only
on the upper part of cheek and gill covers, while in the pike
they, cover the cheek and part of the gill cover.    Color is not a THE  ALGONQUIN PARADISE
BAY LAKE.
9
sure guide, as the maskalonge varies very considerably in its
markings, though, as a rule, it has dark markings on a light
ground, while in the pike the coloring is reversed. Many persons in Canada believe the maskalonge to be a mythical fish,
but such is not the case, and the State of New York hatches
some 3,000,000 annually, and there is no record of pike ever
becoming maskalonge or maskalonge reverting to pike. Each
is undoubtedly a good species. The Temiskaming Indians have
unwittingly further confused the indentification of this unfortunate fish by calling a pike " kenonji," and a big lanky pike
"Mas kenonji," while in New Ontario and Manitoba, the western branch of the same great Algonquin nation, know the maskalonge by the same name.''
Next morning at 8.00 o'clock the party reached the Montreal, for the river is but a rifle-shot beyond the shores of Ajicki
sakaigan. Sometimes there is excellent bass fishing right at
the end of the portage, but for that the water must be low.  As
LADY  EVELYN  LAKE.
it was high the guides were for pushing on, and their advice
was taken. Two miles up the winding Montreal the first rapid
was reached. Here, while the men were carrying the camp
over the few hundred yards of capital going constituting the
portage, the four rods caught sufficient bass for all. This was
almost more than had been bargained for, as it took away all
excuse for fishing during the remainder of the morning. By
this rapid they noticed a long tube, or " water glass," that had
been used, unsuccessfully, so the guides said, in hunting for a
gun lost by a tourist.
" At the end of the next portage, a very short one, less than
a mile above the first, the kettle was put on and a halt called
for luncheon. The artist wTaxed quite enthusiastic over the
sweet glimpse of pine-clad islet and foaming waters to be had
from this resting place, and would not be satisfied until he had
photographed the scene, and taken notes as to its coloring.
Early in the afternoon the third, and last, portage on the river
'
I
for many a long mile was reached. Two hundred and fifty
yards above its foot the canoes were launched on the placid
waters of Bay Lake, twelve miles long, and one of the grandest
fishing waters on the Montreal river.
The President's canoe was leading. Suddenly, as it turned a
point, and opened out a little grassy bay, the Indians stopped
in the middle of their stroke and remained rigid as frozen men.
One word only escaped Pierrot—but it carried a world of
meaning.
"Moose !"
Yes, there he was, sure enough. This great, black monarch
of the Canadian woodland. His massive antlers, not yet clean
of velvet, but the span of a man's reach from one indented
palm to the other. Deep down in the water, feeding greedily
upon the juicy leaves of the water lily, his mooseship neither
saw, heard, nor winded the advancing canoe, until it had come
so near that a biscuit could have been tossed on his broad back.
Then with tremendous plunges he sought the shore, and the
kindly shelter of the forest closed behind.
" Well, I'm blessed," said the President.
"Mr. Moose was scared 'em, I think, eh?" chuckled Pierrot.
And then the incident was ended ; though it gave rise to many
a yarn around the camp fire for wTeeks afterwards.
" This fishing beats any I ever had," cried the artist gleefully, on reaching camp that night, as he held a four-pound black
bass in one hand, and a ten-pound pike in the other. The rest
of the party were awaiting him at the camp landing, and all
had been successful, though Mrs. President was almost in tears
at the loss of a bass whose weight had been estimated by her
crafty guide at six pounds, but which her husband was convinced could not tip the beam at half that weight. Naturally
the lady would not have it that way, and so long as she shall
live will never cease to lament the escape of that monster bass
of Bay Lake.
Camp that night was pitched on a rocky point, whose shelving sides of gneiss were smooth as glass, through the polishing;
they got long ages ago from the glaciers of the ice age. The
ruddy glow of an enormous fire lit up the sombre waters of the
lake, and the merry sparks danced and cracked amid the dense
bough of a big pine. The men had their own fire at a little
distance, and Pierrot, who was a great entertainer, was keeping
them in roars of laughter. Each sentence was punctuated by
an outburst of merriment.
" These Indians are the most contented race that ever lived,"
said the Globe Trotter. " No matter how hard the work, nor
how long the day, they are always ready to laugh and dance
half through the night.".
" And what do they talk about ? " asked Mrs. President.
" The Indian is a man with a child's mind, and his stories
are much like those that amuse white children in the nursery.
Shall we call up Pierrot, and ask him to repeat the one he has
just finished—it will probably give you a fair idea of what they
find amusing ? '' 10
THE   ALGONQUIN  PARADISE
PORK  RAPIDS
11
Pierrot came up somewhat bashfully, but, after a little
pressing delivered himself as follows :
How Br'er Rabbit was Fooled.
" Once, I in the woods. Pretty hungry, eh? That's what's
the matter, Eh ? No gun, no nothing. All game I seen was
rabbits, running to beat sixteen of a kind. How can I catch
'em? No sessababi; not so easy as by the looks. Could'nt do
nothing. Them rabbits put me in pretty miserable 'aintit?
After a bit I know what to do. Lots of snow on ground. I
make big fire, and go way quick, eh? Not making any racket,
eh ? Make anodder little fire, and go to sleep awhile.. By and
by I wake up, go and see for Mr. Rabbit. There he ees,
gentlemen ; five of him ; all frozen in the snow, eh ?
" Mr. Rabbit he say ; there nice, warm fire—he lay down-
commence to happy, eh !    Then fire go out, and snow get hard,
FISHERMAN S  CAMP—LADY  EVELYN   LAKE.
and Mr. Rabbit coat stuck in ice, so he can't get up. He says
that's not fair kanage, but no use trying. I came along and
make bouillon of him, eh ! "
Pierrot's story was voted an excellent effort of the imagination, and the President bribed him with a cigar ($5.00 a
hundred, one 25 per cent and two 10 per cents, off) to tell another.
"Br'er Rabbit and the Pepper Pot.
" 'Nother time I was in woods in summer. Hungry all the
time. Rabbits running to beat sixty. How I going to catch ?
No sessababi. I know what I do. Find lovely, decent, flat
rock, put lots pepper on it, go little way and get behind tree.
By-and-by Mr. Rabbit comes along and begin to smeller at my
pepper. ' Watch out below,' I says, but he don't know nothing.
Then he begins to sneezer, sneezer, sneezer, and after a bit he
don't care for any horse, and he's a goner. C'est bon, Mary
Ann, I say, and cook him pretty quick, eh !"
Just at the moment there was a tremendous splash close to
the rock.    " What's that ? " cried Mrs. President.
"Your fish come to look you up," suggested her unfeeling
husband.
"Ojusk," muttered Pierrot, " Shang-gwishe pretty near get
him that time, eh ! "
Next morning at 8.45 the party had the pleasure of making
the acquaintance of Mr. and Mrs. Peter White, several masters
White, and a happy, diminutive W^hite in a birch-bark casing
whose sex was not satisfactorily determined. Mr. W^hite lives
at the head of Bay lake, but is mostly somewhere else, being
a travelling man by force of necessity. Shortly after leaving
these excellent people—Peter White is said to be a capital
hunter—the Pork rapids were reached. These rapids are really
fine, and somebody will do well in bestowing on them a more
attractive name. Between the rapids and Mattawabika falls
the character of the river changes. Leaving behind the
granites and other eruptive rock masses, the valley is cut from
the softer Silurian slates. In consequence, marshes, backwaters and ducks are met with in this part of the river.
" Oh, what lovely falls ! " cried Mrs. President on seeing the
twin cascades of Mattawabika. This was three hours after
leaving Bay lake, and by that time ten miles had been covered
—not bad going against the stream !
Heretofore the artist had kept his raptures within bounds,
but Mattawabika broke down the barriers of his reserve.
"The half has never been told ! Why, Globe Trotter, you're
a regular fraud, or you would have given us an inkling at least
of what to expect."
" The fact is there are so many beauty spots on the route that
I preferred to say as little as possible about any one of them.
Seeing is believing—and also understanding and feeling. But
how about the fishing ? Why loiter here when black bass by
the score are simply dying to die ?''
" Where are the best places ?" enquired the President.
" They vary with the pitch of water, but as a rule either side
of that little islet is a sure find ; also that pool under the right
hand fall, and occasionally the fish are to be found lying several
hundred feet toward the tail of the river near each rocky shore.
As a rule, however, you will find more pike and fewer bass in
the quiet water than in the rapid."
That night camp was pitched on as wildly beautiful a site as
ever painter limned. No pegs could be driven into those
eternal rocks, and stones had to be used to hold the tents
upright. In some mysterious manner a healthy and heavy
growth of Norway, or red pine (Pinus resinosa), has managed to
find a foothold and nourishment in the cliffs of rocky Mattawabika. These noble trees, with their dark plumes and tall
red stems, add a wondrous charm to the scene. It will be an
evil day should either fire or axe remove these silent sentinels
by the falls.
Next morning early, the canoes were put in the water above
the falls. They now floated on Mattawabika lake, a ribbon of
blue, five miles long. Half an hour after starting the Globe
Trotter was asked to explain the reason of certain tunnels and
dump heaps on the northern shore. 12
THE ALGONQUIN  PARADISE
RED   PINE  POINT.
13
" A copper mine," said he, " but no work has been done of
late, but perhaps more because of lack of capital than from
lack of ore. The fact is this country is a most promising ground
for the prospector, and it is quite possible that some day the
MENJAMAGOSIPI  FALLS.
nickel deposits of the Sudbury district will be found to extend
much further east than is usually supposed. I understand that
nickel-copper ores are already being worked by Vermilion lake,
but with what result I cannot say, as I have never been there."
"I promised you duck, and there they are," cried the Globe
Trotter to the artist, as the fleet emerged from the Waswaning
narrows. " For the next ten miles you should generally have
wild fowl in sight. The water is shallow, and the muddy
shores and backwaters offer great inducement to the myriad
flocks to pause on their way to and from Hudson's Bay. The
best ground of all is, however, a certain Shoal lake, several
miles above Mattawabika, on the Montreal river. The birds
stay longer in spring than in autumn, and, moreover, arrive
simultaneously, and not in small flocks as they do in September.
•Of course, nearly all the duck you will see to-day have bred or
Ibeen raised here—the northern duck will not be down for some
weeks yet."
" What sort of duck are those I see flying?" asked Mrs.
President.
" Black duck, and unless you are extremely careful, or else
■extremely fortunate, you will rarely see them except on the
wing—for of all our North American duck they are the most
suspicious, and the most alert. I have noticed a point in connection with the duck which has, I believe, escaped the
attention of the naturalists ; some of them at least must be
-coated in chain armor, or they never could fly unscathed through
a hail of shot, as they often do.''
" And what other birds have you here ?"
"For a full answer to that question, my dear Madame," returned the smiling Globe Trotter,  "I must refer you to the
!
•check list of Ontario birds, published by the Department of
Education, Toronto. I can merely give you the names of a few
•of the more abundant. You will probably see during the trip,
in addition to the black duck, mergansers, teal, scaup duck,
bufne-head, ruddy duck, bittern, heron, sand-pipers, yellow-
legs, hawks, owls, ruffed and Canada grouse, osprey, kingbirds, blue and Canada jays, raven, crow, blackbirds, grackles,
sparrows, j uncos, chickadees, robins, cedar birds, and, if you
are in luck, that most handsome bird of them all—a drake
wood duck."
Red Pine point was reached at lunch time. Facing it a small
creek was noticed, said by the guides to be the best place on
the Mattawabika river for duck, but it being yet close season,
the party did not visit it—because it is safer to avoid temptation than, to court it, especially when the Evil One may at
any moment cause a nice, fat, young black duck to flap up just
in front of the canoe, and your gun has a light and very sweet
trigger-pull.
Just as they were approaching a gorge with high rocky walls,
heyond which the calm, islet-dotted, waters of a lake shimmered
in the afternoon sun, the Globe Trotter called a halt. "We
are near," said he, "one of the most attractive views of the
journey, so you had better get your cameras and sketching
pads ready. These are the Obisaga narrows, and after passing
through you will be in Lady Evelyn lake."
The artist prepared his 8 in. by 10 in. with Zeiss lens in a
very short time, but Mrs. President was still quicker, and had
already snapped her little pocket kodak more than once ere he
was ready—still there are photographs and photographs, and
while that of the artist took a prize last winter in New York,
KATHERINE   LAKE—MENJAMAGOSIPI.
the lady's did not; in photographing as in more serious matters
it is sometimes wise to go slow.
"I should like to stay here a week and sketch," said the
artist. 14
THE  ALGONQUIN  PARADISE
"Impossible, my dear fellow," rejoined the President, "I
must be back in harness in three weeks, and as yet we have
hardly completed a third of our proposed canoe trip."
That night's camp will never be forgotten by any white
member of the party. In all that glorious lakeland of the north
nothing more lovely than the sheet the white man knows as
Lady Evelyn, and the Indian as Monzkaamwanang exists. Its
silver waters are but a setting for isles that seem to float on its
molten surface. The peacefulness of this lovely lake sinks into
the soul of the onlooker, soothing and making the petty carks
and cares of life seem trivial indeed—if at such a time the wayfarer remembers the great world outside, with its cities, marts,
and iniquities, it may only be in pity for those who have not
the good fortune to be able to seek the open book of nature and
learn again from her the lessons they knew in youth.
'' Can you tell me the reason why some trees begin to change
so much earlier than the majority of their species," asked the
BASS  FISHING—DIAMOND  LAKE.
President of the Globe Trotter, " now look at those bright yellow fypots on the flanks of Maple mountain—those are birch
trees that are already fading, and yet 'tis but the third week in
August, and most of the foliage is as green as Midsummer? "
" The Indians say all such trees are sickly and will soon die,"
replied the Globe Trotter.
"That seems a reasonable explanation at any rate. By the
bye, how is it that we see none of those hideous rampikes and
sweepers that disfigure the shores of so many lakes elsewhere ?''
"The cause is a simple one. Whenever a lake is in its
natural condition you will find the trees green and flourishing
down almost to ordinary summer level—and below that none.
Even though in spring the water may be considerably above
the roots of the trees, it will not remain at that height long
enough to harm them. Once, however, a dam has been built
the most destructive agencies are set to work, and the ruin of
the lake is certain.    The water is backed up to a perpetually
WILLOW  ISLAND  LAKE
15
high level, the trees along the shores die, rot, are blown down
and litter the beaches ; in fact, what was before, perhaps, an
ideal resort becomes an eyesore on the face of the land. Nor is
this all, for the damming of a lake almost always ruins the trout
fishing. I ir^self know of scores of instances wThere it has done
so, nor do I recollect a single case in which the fisherman's sport
has been added to through a dam."
" How is the damage done ? " asked the Artist.
" Lake trout and spotted trout, the latter especially, seek the
shallowTs to lay their eggs, these being tender are probably unable
to stand the pressure of much superincumbent water. As is
now well understood, trout and salmon generally prefer to lay
their eggs where they themselves first saw the light, returning
with marvellous instinct to the beds they know as alevins. A
dam raises the water many feet, and when the fish return, as
they assuredly do, to the old beds, the eggs are deposited in water
too deep for safety, and are usually destroyed. Even when this
does not happen, the unfortunate fry are born in a locality
affording no shelter from their most dangerous foes, and are unable to escape them."
"Thank goodness " exclaimed Mrs. President, " that this
lovely lake has been spared so far, and let's hope it always
will."
And the others said, Amen, in chorus.
"Pierrot," cried the President, "what is the meaning of
your Indian name for this lake ?''
" Monzkaamwanang ; him place we eat moose meat."
" Why ; don't you eat moose meat in lots of places ? "
'' Of course ; but this first time we eat moose meat here.''
" A-ne-ke-dogan ? " (What did you say) laughed the Globe
Trotter, and Pierrot shook himself together, for the serious task
of tackling a long story in the White man's tongue.
" Long time ago, no moose here. Gone way. Old Indians
talk 'bout 'em. Knows what likes it ees, but nebber see 'em
now. Then one day Indian kill 'em on Chebage (Ghost Mt.
or Maple mountain), so that man call 'em Monzkaamwanang."
" The probable explanation is that a murrain had temporarily
cleaned out the moose of this region, but that in time they
gradually increased in numbers until they became as at present,
exceedingly numerous,'' said the Globe Trotter. '' The Mic-mac
Indians say that the moose was almost unknown in New
Brunswick for some twenty-five years in the early part of the
century, and the Crees and the North-western tribes have
legends to the same effect."
" When Mr. Moose go way, lots of Wawashka (deer) come,"
continued Pierrot. "Then Mr. Wolf he come too, and then
Mr. Wawashka pretty near a goner."
Next day the flotilla diverged from the regular canoe route
through Lady Evelyn lake, and passed by a narrow channel to
the foot of Willow Island fall, and thence by a portage into
Willow Island lake. The object of this detour wras to do a little
quiet exploration, and, if possible, to discover the whereabouts
of a certain trout stream, whose existence had been revealed to
the Globe Trotter by a Matachewan Indian. Following out
the idea, it had been determined that an ascension of each
tributary stream should be made, at least for a certain distance ; 16
THE ALGONQUIN PARADISE
so on coming to the mouth of a creek flowing from the westward, shortly after passing Willow Island falls, the leading
canoe turned into it, followed by the others.
The lowTer part of this nameless stream is tortuous and sluggish ; curling lazily through a wilderness of alder, willow, and
grass—just the ground beloved by the moose in summer. And
that moose were there the number of tracks bore evidence,
so everyone was on the alert, and as a reward a bull was seen
from Mrs. President's canoe, and another, so the Indians said,
crashed through the dense tangle of vegetation out of sight, but
not too far for their sharp ears to catch the sound of its flight.
"There certainly seems no particular necessity for making
rigid close season on moose in Northern Ontario," soliloquized
the President, as he gazed at a muddy point, where tracks were
as numerous as in a stockyard.
"Nor is there," rejoined the Globe Trotter. "I know of
one party which saw forty-nine moose this summer, during a
SHARP  ROCK  INLET—LAKE TEMAGAMING.
three weeks' trip, and of another which ran across twenty in
one week."
Five miles above the mouth of this creek a lake of considerable size was reached, and half an hour later, another. This
stream would be hard to beat for black duck and moose. Its
course, after the first mile, is toward the northwest, and from
its volume at the second lake is believed to come from afar.
" I am going to stay here at least half a day and sketch,"
said the Artist next morning, as they stepped ashore at the foot
of a superb fall, at the head of Willow Island lake—and the
remainder of the party acquiesced with good grace, because
they, too, were under the magic of that wonderful glimpse of
unspoilt nature.
" What a relief it is to be away from the beaten route," exclaimed the President, as he stretched himself at full length
amid the ferns, and reached out for a particularly tempting
bunch of ripe berries. "There are no patent medicine advertisements disfiguring the rocks or trees up here."
WILLOW  ISLAND  LAKE
17
"Perhaps," suggested Mrs. PTesident solemnly, "we are the
first white people to set foot here."
" No chance of that," retorted the Globe Trotter, " for hundreds of years the Hudson Bay officers and the French missionaries have used these waterways, and few, indeed, are the
streams they have not ascended. Only this spring, I'am told,
a most remarkable find was made in this very neighborhood..
A Temagaming Indian, returning from his winter's trapping,
found an old silver cross, under a* growth of moss, as he was
clearing the ground for his tent. It is declared by the highest
antiquarian authority in Canada—Father Jones, of the Jesuit
College in Montreal—to be one of a batch sent out by a certain
Countess of Lorraine, to be distributed to the Huron and other
Indians, as a reward for espousing the cause of the French as
against the English. He fixed the date of its presentation as-
certainly earlier than 1649, because in the spring of that year the
Huron tribe was practically exterminated by the more warlike
and crafty Iroquois. The
Jesuits then withdrew their
mission, and no more of
these Lorraine crosses were
distributed in Canada,
though they are constantly
being found in Wisconsin,
Ohio, and Minnesota, regions-
that later came into the field
of the Jesuit missions.
" If only these ancient
rocks could talk," said the
lady " what a marvellously
interesting story they would
tell."
" Yes,   that    old   fellow
perched up there could spin
quite a yarn," chimed in her
husband,  pointing to what
geologists   call   an   erratic.
" He's been there ever since
lorraine cross. the last ice age, and we are
told by  science that was at
least 22,500 years ago—and that's a long time to do business
at the same old stand."
These falls were only the first of several that had to be surmounted, and it was not until after passing three, and a couple
of rapids, that the party found the trout they were in search of-
Then there were, if anything, too many, as the Artist found out
to his sorrow, when he hooked a couple at one cast—and got
smashed.
"How are they biting, President?" shouted the Globe
Trotter to that worthy, who was just then struggling with the
grandpa of all the trout.
" With their heads up, my lad ; with their heads up," gasped
the perspiring President, as he strove to persuade his victim to
make the acquaintance of the landing net.
" What are we to call this gem of a stream ? " asked the
Globe Trotter, as he surveyed a pile of big trout just about to
be cleaned and cooked. 18
THE  ALGONQUrN  PARADISE
SHARP  ROCK   INLET
19
" Call 'em Menjamagosipi," (Speckled Trout river), suggested
Pierrot. " lots trout here."
" Menjamagosipi, let it be," and a notice to that effect was
nailed to a neighboring tree.
Owing to the limited time at the disposal of its members, no
further ascent of this charming stream could be attempted by
the party, but at some future day it is the intention of one, at
least, to return, and follow it to distant Matachewan, on the
Montreal river. So, after a long, delightful day's trout fishing
in Katherine lake (so named by one of the party), the back
track was taken adown stream to Willow Island lake, and
thence up Sucker Gut, and across a two-mile portage into
Diamond lake. At Katherine lake the Menjamagosipi forks,
the one branch flowing into Willow lake, the other to the head of
CLIFF AT  SANDY  INLET.
Sucker Gut; had they taken the latter it would have been
shorter than the route followed.
The canoes ran down the west arm of Diamond lake (Na-wa-
kaming) before a brisk gale, the bright sun and blue sky, together with the foam-tipped swells, forming one of the most
laughing landscapes ever mortal looked upon. When the
Artist, or the President, had praised the bass fishing at Mattawabika or Lady Evelyn, the Globe Trotter had promised even
better in Diamond, Obabika, and Temagaming—so it was with
somewhat high expectations that the spoon or fly was cast into
the first of this famous trio.
Bass No. 1 fell to Pierrot, who had picked up the Artist's
rod for a trial cast while that worthy was lighting his pipe.
In one of its many acrobatic somersaults—for it wTas almost as
much out of the water as in—the Globe Trotter caught it on
the fly with his camera, so, though its fine, white flesh furnished
a wrelcome addition to the luncheon, the fish itself has become
immortal. What bass fisherman can glance at that poor
photograph without wishing that he stood in his red brother's
somewhat dilapidated and down-at-the-heel shoes ?
" I don't consider Diamond lake quite equal to Lady Evelyn
for scenery, but I do think its fishing is the best we have yet
found," mused the Artist, as he counted and examined the
seventeen beauties the united rods had taken in a little over an
hour's fishing.
Camp was pitched on one of the many charming isles to be
found in Diamond lake, and as a long, hard day's paddling
and portaging had been done, at an unusually early hour the
civilized end of the camp was wrapped in slumber, but not so
with the rest—for an Indian is as loath to go to bed as to rise,
and to him fatigue is hardly anything but a name.
Sharp Rock portage, leading from Diamond to Temagaming,
bears an appropriate name ; though to realize this thoroughly
a man must pass over it with a canoe on his shoulder and thin
moccasins on his feet. Then, if he be not an Indian, some of
his exclamations are likely to be as sharp as the rock itself.
The portage is, however, but a short one, and not by any means
to be dreaded."
The first glimpse of Temagaming from the end of Sharp Rock
portage is perhaps the only disappointing view on the lake.
Except the marvellously clean, emerald tinted water, the
voyageur sees nothing particularly worthy of comment during
the first mile—then Temagaming—the fabled heaven of the
Algonquins, begins to assume that witchery of form and color
which must haunt any mortal who has fallen under the spell
until he die.
"That's a fine bold shore on the right hand," exclaimed the
President, pointing to Sharp Rock inlet.
"Yes, and at every point the igneous rocks have intruded
through the Huronian, you will find the same scarped cliffs
and rugged hills. Sandy inlet, the Devil's mountain, Cross
bay, and half a dozen other places that could be named, owe
their romantic beauty to a fortunate outburst of igneous activity.
Without these time-worn masses of diabase and gabbro, Temagaming would be as thousands of other lakes."
Twisting and turning through narrow channels, past rocky,
pine-clothed islets, over submerged reefs, where the bass and
whitefish swim in never-ending shoals, the day passed, and
when the sun grew low in the heavens an ideal camping spot
on one of the islets of Whitefish bay was readily found. A
magnificent Norway pine stretched its protecting boughs over
the tent.
The men found a lot of amusement in a squirrel hunt. The
unfortunate animal had a bad time of it until the guides
tired of the game, but was not hurt by any of the missiles
thrown. " Squiller don't like to come down out of thar, eh ? "
said Pierrot, looking revengefully at the red rascal chattering
on the very summit of the highest pine tree on the island. 20
THE   ALGONQUIN  PARADISE
"I don't blame the poor little fellow," laughed the Globe
Trotter. Then turning to Mrs. President, he added, "These
Indians hate a squirrel with a ridiculously venemous strength,
considering the object—though it must be rather annoying to
OBABIKA  LAKE.
find a half-dozen martin traps sprung, and nothing but dead
squirrels in any one of them."
"Explain youself," said the lady.
" The animal which the trapper knows as martin, and milady
: as sable, is caught during the early winter, in small dead-falls
baited with meat. The traps are made here and there in the
forest, at points that the hunter fancies are frequented by
martin. These trapping lines often extend for 20 miles—in fact
I know of one 70 miles long—and every few days the Indian
has to traverse it from end to end, gathering his peltries and
rebaiting his traps. Not infrequently he finds a trap sprung
and nothing in it but a squirrel or a moosebird,—sometimes,
indeed, insult is added to injury, and from the few fragments
of hair, or the stray feathers scattered about, he knows that the
martin has been there too, and has made a hearty meal of the
unfortunate intruder."
"Well," said the President, "under the circumstances the
Indian could hardly be expected to love the squirrel. In fact I
don't care particularly for the animal myself, because he is a
blood-thirsty little wretch, and cuts the throat of many a
nestling game and song bird in May and June."
An early start wTas made, and the Portage into Sandy inlet
crossed ere the sun had climbed high in the heavens. It had
been determined to troll for lake trout in the inlet, but none of
the party had realized the depth of water in which the fish lie
during the warmer months of the year. With 250 feet of line
out, no bottom or fish could be had, and it was not until two
lines had been joined together, and a two-pound lead threaded
on, that success crowned their efforts. Then the President
gave a whoop, "I've got him ! No, by jove, I hav'nt; its the
OBABIKA  BAY
21
bottom." A pause, and. then, " Oh yes, it's a fish ; and a big
one too—I can feel him pulling." The drudgery of getting in
the long, water-soaked line fell to a guide, but the reward was
great, for five minutes later a 25-pound grey trout lay in the
canoe. 'Three others were caught before Devil's island was
reached, but none as heavy as the first.
A strong south wind was blowing. " There'll be ten minutes
of a rough house, gentleman," said Pierrot, "if we try get
across there now. Them swTell '11 put us in pretty miserable,"
and as Pierrot had showed an almost reckless disregard
of danger hitherto, it was considered wise to heed his warning
and not attempt to cross the lake just then. Three hours later
the gale had moderated, and a visit could be paid, in safety, to
Granny Island, the country seat of Mrs. Kokomis.
Mrs. Kokomis was at home, and received her friends in an
informal manner, not even rising to salute them— because she
is only a stone. The Globe Trotter gave them the outlines of
her sad history, and Pierrot was on hand to fill in the details.
As for the other guides they stuck to the canoes, and looked
immensely relieved when they were ordered to move on. It
seems that the Devil is not, as has been supposed, a bachelor,
but a widower. The Indians believe he was married, and that
his wife was not quite bad enough to live with him, so she fled.
The old gentleman started after her, and at Devil's mountain
(facing Granny island) had gained on her so that, as a last
resource, she sprang into the lake and swam to the islet. The
cold water was something the Devil could not tackle, but by the
exercise of his occult power he turned his fugitive wife into a
stone. No Indian will sleep on the island, and few will pass it
without making some slight offering of tobacco, cotton, fish or
flour to Mrs. Kokomis—as they are impressed with the necessity
of keeping the lady in as good humor as possible. THE  ALGONQUIN  PARADISE.
" That place, bad kanage," muttered Pierrot as he paddled
away, wouldn't camp there for any horse"—and Antoine Kat,
the bowsman, grunted his approval.
Devil's bay, from the head of which a short portage leads to
H^innnH
;     ■ .;'■
WHITE  BEAR  LAKE.
Obabika bay, lay smiling and calm, a perfect haven of rest
after a sufficiently rough crossing, for it is entirely sheltered
from southerly gales. While the men were pitching camp the
rods were got out. Mr. M. Dolomieu proved to be very much
at home, and the sport was consequently superb, for Dolomieu
seldom declines to come out and do battle when challenged.
The best water is near the head of the bay, around certain
rocky islets.
About midnight the camp was disturbed by an intruder, the
stillness being broken by the snorting of some large animal close
to the tents.
" What's that ?" said the Artist to the Globe Trotter.
" A red deer buck ; a big one too I fancy," and so it proved,
when the tracks were examined next morning. A well used
runway passed close to the camp fire.
A short portage, actually enjoyable in the cool morning air, a
paddle of five miles up one of the prettiest of Temagaming's
many arms, and then Obabika burst upon them in all its wild
beauty.
"Here," said the Globe Trotter, " we stand on the borders of
a wilderness known to none but the Indians and Hudson's Bay
officials. The ordinary tourist seldom or never ventures further
than Obabika, and what lies beyond must be largely conjecture.
I know that there are bass and grey trout in the lake in vast
numbers and goodly size, and it is more than likely that a trip
up the Obabika river and an exploration of some of its many
tributaries w^ould amply reward those making them, for we may
not doubt there are moose to be shot, and speckled trout to be
caught, all through that country."
NET  LAKE
23
" Well this is good enough for me," cried the President, as
he struck a heavy bass. As he was using the fly, the others
took off their spoons and imitated him, because the fly is the
peer of all lures. The fishing ground was on the south side, of
a long, sandy shoal, and so good was the sport that after an
hour's fishing a halt was decided on.
Two small gray trout were taken by deep trolling, but time
could not be spared for the systematic exploration of the north
end of the lake where the big fish are supposed to lie during the
warm weather. Some men have had remarkable sport there
later in the season.
That evening, just as the Union Jack was being lowrered from
the tall staff facing the trader's house, Bear island, the Hudson's
Bay Company's post, was reaehed. The present site has only
been occupied since 1875, when Temagaming island was abandoned. Like all the Company's posts this one is admirably
situated, not only from a scenic point of view, but because the
long routes leading to Temiskaming, Georgian bay, and Hudson' s Bay via Metachewan, all converge here. Truly appropriate
is the name the Indians have given a nearby point; they call
it Metagaming, or the place of meeting on the shore. Could the
white man have thought of a more fitting, and, at the same
time, an equally poetical designation ?
There are, according to reliable testimony, 1,300 islands in
Temagaming, and more than five hundred miles of coast line.
"We can't hope to see it all," had said Mrs. President regretfully—so in order to know as much as possible of this noble
lake, for use on future occasions, each one having resolved this
should not be the last trip—it wTas decided to divide the party,
Mr.  and   Mrs.   President investigating  Ko-ko-ko-o bay,   the
THE RABBIT—RABBIT  LAKE.
others making the round of Muddy Water, Cross and Outlet
bays.    The try sting place was to be the North-East arm.
Two days later the party was re-united. Said the President,
" Our men did a hard day's paddling from Bear island to Ko-ko-
ko-o lake, and back to the head of Temagaming islet, wrhere 24
THE  ALGONQUIN  PARADISE.
we camped. Ko-ko-ko-o arm is hardly equal to the other parts
of the lake in beauty, and in the lake, the fishing, though excellent, was no better, if as good, elsewhere."
"We were more fortunate than you then,"  rejoined the
RABBIT  CHUTE.
artist, " for the most perfect scenery on the whole lake is Cross
Arm. We ran down to Temagaming falls, and found wonderful fishing there, but, after all,' my especial delight was Cross
Arm.    Let's camp there a week next time ? "
From Temagaming to the mouth of the Montreal is forty
honest miles—a long road in theory, and an exceedingly short
and pleasant one in practice, fur no one could possibly tire of
the bewitching lakes and numerous falls, nor of the charming
vistas disclosed by the turns of the winding Metabetchewan.
An hour's fishing, opposite the " gold mine " on the North-East
arm, had been stolen by the artist, while the men were portaging into Caribou lake, and his catch of six bass in fifteen
minutes yet holds the record, though in extenuation it may be
added that none of the bass were over one and one-half pounds
in weight, and that he gave them the butt without mercy.
From Caribou lake to Net lake, and thence to White Bear
lake, was a succession of views, each of its kind pleasing and
satisfying—" You did well, Globe Trotter, to bring us in by
way of the Montreal river," said the President, "for by so
doing you have certainly kept the best until the last."
" Yes, and further you go adown the steep slope, and up the
easy one."
Net lake is renowned for its bass fishing, but by this time
none of the party was very keen to catch more, being somewhat surfeited with the good sport already enjoyed, so the bass
were left to grow.
On White Bear lake there is a large Indian village, but it is
not seen by the passing traveller unless he leave the ordinary
canoe route.    This point has been chosen on account of its
AMIK-O-WIC.
25
heing central to good hunting, trapping and fishing. From
White Bear lake a canoe may be taken North, South, East, or
West, over routes wTell knowm to the guides.
Rabbit point was reached shortly before sunset. " Well, that
may be a rabbit, but I'm blessed if it would take a prize at a
show," laughed the President, as he surveyed the erratic
boulder in whose shape the vivid imagination of the red man
has traced a resemblance to bunny. '' Nothing of the Belgium
hare about that fellow.''
" The ears certainly look more like those of a cropped bull
terrier," said Mrs. President, "but as Kipling says of Tommy
Atkins, 'We must take him as wre find him,'" Three miles
Tbeyond the point camp was pitched-^as it turned out the last
of the trip, for by the next night they were at Bonner's farm
and out of the wilderness.
The sun had hardly shown above the tops of the stark red
pines next morning when Rabbit Chute was reached. It is a
most enchanting spot, and one well worthy of being put on
-canvas by a master hand. The Artist took several photographs,
•one of which is here reproduced, but eventually sank into the
deepest despair because his photographs could not reproduce
the delicate harmony of tone which makes this scene so
•charming on a fine summer morn.
Hardly inferior were the grand castellated rocks facing the
Long Portage, leading past the King fall; and then the four
beautiful Bass lakes delighted the travellers.
"Call him Amik-o-wic," said Pierrot, pointing to a conical
mountain of granite to the right of the last portage before
reaching Lake Temiskaming, "House, where Mr. Beaver live."
"Now, I understand," cried the President. Coming upon
the Meteor, one of the white settlers called it Beaver mountain,
but I could not see the resemblance. Now it is clear; from here
the outline is precisely that of a big beaver house.""
"Yes," said the President, "our brother Lo knows his
natural history too well to make many mistakes."
That night they feasted on blueberries and fresh cream, pancakes and maple syrup, and many other delicacies to which
their palates had grown unfamiliar. Next morning the Meteor
picked them up and the trip was ended.
As the President was stepping ashore at Temiskaming wharf,
Captain Redmond had said to him, " I suppose you'll be up here
next summer?"
And the President had closed one eye impressively and
replied, "You Bet." Publications - -
ISSUED BY THE
CANADIAN    PACIFIC
RAILWAY   CO.
"THE   NEW    HIGHWAY    TO   THE    ORIENT,"
"FISHING   AND   SHOOTING,"
"SPORTSMAN'S   MAP   OF   CANADA,"
"SUMMER TOURS,"
"WESTWARD   TO   THE   FAR   EAST,"
"EAST   TO   THE   WEST,"
Guides  to the   Principal   Cities  of   Japan   and   China.
"TIME-TABLE   WITH   NOTES,"
"AROUND   THE   WORLD,"
"CLIMATES   OF   CANADA,"
"QUEBEC-SUMMER   AND   WINTER,"
"MONTREAL, THE CANADIAN METROPOLIS,"
"ACROSS   CANADA   TO   AUSTRALIA,"
"BANFF," "HAWAII,"
Also   numerous   pamphlets   descriptive  of   Manitoba,
the   Canadian   North-West  Territories
and British Columbia.
" WESTERN CANADA," " BRITISH COLUMBIA,"
"GOLD   FIELDS   OF   B.C.," "YUKON."
Most of these publications are handsomely illustrated and
contain much useful information in interesting shape. Tirne-
Tables with Notes will be found a valuable companion for all
r~ o,
"Th
"fi:
"SF
"SL
"Wl
"EA
Guid
"Tir
"AF
"CL
"OL
"MC
"AC
"BA
Also
'WI
GO
M
contai
Tables
Transcontinental travellers. Copies may be obtained FREE
from agents of the Company, or will be mailed to any address
on application to the undersigned.
Baltimore, Md  J. H. Thompson, 129 East Baltimore Street.
Boston, Mass II. J. Colvin, 197 Washington Street.
Buffalo,   N.Y A. J. Shulman, 233 Main Street.
Chicago, 111 A. C. Shaw, 228 South Clark Street.
Detroit,  Mich     A. E. Edmonds, 11 Fort Street West.
Duluth  M. Adson, 426 Spalding House Block.
Marquette, Mich... .G. W. Hibbard, South Shore Line.
Minneapolis, Minn. .W. R. Callaway, Soo-Pacific Line.
Montreal, Qu9 Wm. F. Egg, 129 St. James St.
New Whatcom,Wash. W. H. Gordon," 1293 Dock Street.
New York, N.Y...■.. .E. V. Skinner, 353 Broadway.
Niagara Falls, N.Y. .D. Isaacs, Prospect House.
Philadelphia, Pa H. McMurtrie,  Corner Third and Chestnut
Streets.
Pittsburg F. W. Salsbury, 409 Smith Building.
Portland, Me .G.   TL  Thomson,   Maine   Central   Railroad,
Union Depot.
Portland, Ore Hamilton Abbott, 146 Third Sireet.
St. John, N.B  A. J. Heath.
St. Paul, Minn H.   E.   Huntington,    Soo-Pacific   Line,    39S
Robert Street, Hotel Ryan.
San Francisco, Cal. .M. M. Stern, Chronicle Building.
Seattle, Wash W.R.Thomson,  Mutual Life Building,  609
First Avenue.
Tacoma, Wash F. R. J« hnson, 1023 Pacific Avenue.
Toronto,   Ont A. II. Notman, 1 King Street, East.
Vancouver, B.C E. J. Coyle.
Victoria, B.C B. W. Greer, Government Street.
Winnipeg,   Man A. C. Smith, Corner Main Street and McDer-
mott Avenue.
Washington, D.C W. W. Merkle, 1229 Pennsylvania Avenue.
C.   E.   E.   USSHER,
GENERAL  PASSENGER  AGENT,
LINES   EAST   OF   LAKE   SUPERIOR,
MONTREAL.
c. e.  Mcpherson,
GENERAL  PASSENGER  AGENT,
LINES   WEST   OF   LAKE   SUPERIOR,
WINNIPEG.
ROBT.   KERR,
PASSENGER    TRAFFIC     MANAGER,
MONTREAL. TEriAQAniNQ
A    GLIMPSE    OF
ALGONQUIN
PARADISE
OBISAGA    NARROWS
ISSUED    BY
THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY
COMPANY.
■ MONTREAL,   FEBRUARY,   1901

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