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Fishing and shooting along the line of the Canadian Pacific Railway, in the provinces of Ontario, Quebec,… Canadian Pacific Railway Company. Passenger Department 1897

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Array  \1
(XV
m      vt
PUBLICATIONS
ISSUED BY THE
Canadian Pacific R'yCo.
"The New Highway to the Orient," .  " Summer Tours,"
I Banff,"
" Westward to the Far East," and " East to the West."
(Guides to the Principal Cities of Japan arid China.)
"Time=TabIe with Notes,"
" Around the World,"
"New Route to Australia,"
"Quebec—Summer and Winter,"
" Alaska," " Hawaii,"
Also Numerous Pamphlets Descriptive of Manitoba, the Canadian
Northwest Territories, and British Columbia:
" Western Canada,"
" Gold Fields of Cariboo and Kootenay,"
I The Yukon Gold Belt,"
" New Ontario Gold Fields,"
" British Columbia."
These publications are handsomely illustrated, and contain much useful information
in interesting shape. Time-Tables with Notes will be found a valuable companion for all
Transcontinental travellers.
Copies may be obtained FREE from Agents of the Company, or will be mailed to
any address on application to undersigned.
The Company has also published a new map, on the polar projection, showing the
-whole of the northern hemisphere, and the Canadian Pacific Railway's Around the World
Route in a novel and interesting way. Another excellent wall map of Canada and the
greater portion of the United States, showing the immense system of the C. P. R. and its
connections, has also been issued. These maps will be given away for public and prominent display.
The Company now have on sale in their hotels, principal ticket offices, and on the
trains, several series of handsomely finished views of scenes along their line of railway.
Size: 12 by 10 inches, in portfolios suitable for the table C12 views in each series), Price,
$1,505 and views 22 by 28 inches, suitable for framing C3 views in the set), in mailing
tube, Price, $1.00.
C. E. McPHERSON, W. R. CALLAWAY,
Asst. General-Passenger Agent, General Passenger Agent.
r King Street East, Toronto. Soo Line, Minneapolis, Minn.
H. J. COLVIN,
District Passenger Agent, "• *• THORN,
197 Washington Street, Boston. Asst. General Passenger Agent.
A. H. NOTMAN, Soo Line, St. Paul, Minn.
District Passenger Agent, G# w> HIBBARD,
St. John, N.B. _ , „
J. F. LEE, General Pass. Agent,
General Agent Passenger Department, D-' il* *t* & 4l,Ry»}. .
232 South Clark Stfeet, Chicago, 111. Marquette, Mich.
G. McL. BROWN, M. M. STERN,
District Passenger Agent, District Passenger Agent,
Vancouver, B.C. Chronicle Bldg., San Francisco.
D. E. BROWN,
General Agent, ARCHER BAKER,
China and Japan, &c, Hong Kong. European Traffic Agent,
E. V   SKINNER 67 and 68 King William St., London, E.C.,
and 30 Cockspur St., London, S. W., Eng
General Eastern Agent, 67 St. Vincent Street, Glasgow, Scotland,
353 Broadway, New York. and 7 James Street, Liverpool.
ROBT. KERR, Traffic Manager, Lines West of Lake Superior, Winnipeg.
C. E. E. USSHER, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Montreal.
D. McNICOLL, Passenger Traffic Manager, Montreal. FISHING AND SHOOTING
ALONG THE LINES
OF  THE
CANADIAN PACIFIC
RAILWAY
PROVINCES OF ONTARIO, QUEBEC, BRITISH COLUMBIA, THE
MARITIME  PROVINCES, THE PRAIRIES AND MOUNTAINS
OF WESTERN CANADA, THE STATE OF MAINE
AND IN NEWFOUNDLAND
issued by the
Passenger Traffic   Department
Canadian Pacific  Railway
Montreal, 1897
00%
/£**<■ ply '£££ %nAtx.
EPIGON,   STEEL
FISHING AND SHOOTING     .
THE ANGLER     ....
NORTH SHORE OF THE ST. LAWRENCE, AND LAKE ST
LAKES MEGANTIC AND MOOSEHEAD   .
NEW BRUNSWICK	
NOVA SCOTIA AND NEWFOUNDLAND
THE RIDEAU LAKES	
SHARBOT LAKE	
RIVER TRENT AND ADJACENT WATERS, PETERBORO
LAKES NORTH OF THE TRENT    ....
THE COVERS AND WATERS OF WESTERN ONTARIO
THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND LAKES    .
THE OTTAWA RIVER AND ITS TRIBUTARIES
THE MATTAWA RIVER AND THE UPPER OTTAWA
LAKE NIPISSING AND TROUT LAKE      .
STURGEON FALLS  TO   FORT  WILLIAM,   INCLUDING  N
AND RIVERS OF NORTH SHORE    .
SAULT STE. MARIE, MICHIGAN, AND WISCONSIN
THE REASON WHY	
CANADIAN   NORTHWEST,   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS
COLUMBIA .........
CLOSE SEASONS FOR GAME AND FISH, PROVINCE OF ONTARIO
'' QUEBEC
" NOVA SCOTIA
| NEW BRUNSWICK
'' MANITOBA   .
NORTHWEST TERRITORIES
PROVINCE OF BRITISH COLUMBIA
NEWFOUNDLAND
STATE OF MAINE
" VERMONT.
" MICHIGAN
" WISCONSIN
AGENTS CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILW
SPECIAL PUBLICATIONS
4.ND    BRITISH
IPrxttJC&pal %Xlu&tvxtionsL.
MAP OF THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY
CHATEA U FRONTENAC, QUEBEC
RUFFED GROUSE	
THE VERY SPOT	
MAP EASTERN LINE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY
"     NEPIGON RIVER	
NOT A BAD MORNING'S SHOOTING
CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY HOTELS
MAP OF LOWER KOOTENAY DISTRICT
ROCKY M6UNTAIN SHEEP
Inside front cover FISHING AND SHOOTING.
•v®
mmm
•    \h . -   I.  7 «*
..CiltMlffi- CL■■'-,! till! "t1 - two questions which sportsmen are
now asking are,  where  is  sport to
be found, and which is the best way
of getting there ?    This little book is
intended to assist such enquirers in
deciding for themselves.     It  deals
with the twin subjects,—fishing and
shooting—and is intended to  indicate   localities   generally and  their
requirements,   leaving   intending
sportsmen   to   regulate   the   modus
operandi according to their   several
tastes.    Some   are   not   content   to
"rough  it,"    however   richly   they
may be rewarded, but require all the  accessories
of civilization  that can reasonably be  obtained ;
others regard the camp, the  occasional inconveniences, and the complete change in mode of life as
, *   •  i' additional attractions to the search for and securing
of their game.
No other part of the continent is on a par with Canada in the variety and
plenty of sport obtainable at the expense of a little time and pleasant trouble ; and it so happens that the best game districts of the Dominion are
either in the immediate vicinity of, or at no great distance from, the Canadian
Pacific Railway, and beyond the Dominion, the road and its connections
afford easy access for the angler and hunter to highly-favored places. Newfoundland is now brought within six hours sail of the Canadian railways, and
in Maine, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota and North Dakota the Canadian
Pacific Railway and its connecting lines traverse the best fields for sport.
The Canadian Pacific penetrates the heart of the caribou and deer country
of New Brunswick and Eastern Quebec,—country which is not only celebrated for its big game, but which abounds in trout-streams and small lakes
inhabited by many varieties of fish ; and foi*, the greater part of the way
between St. John, N. B., and Vancouver, on the Pacific Ocean, passes
through territory from which, in the season, no sportsman, however untried
he may be, should return-empty handed. But there is necessarily considerable difference between the resources of one field and another. Not merely
is one locality more promising of one kind of game than of another,—one
good for caribou, but scant of moose ; one well streaked with trout-streams,
but affording less excellent bass fishing ; one unsurpassed for geese and
other wild fowl, but not so good as other localities for grouse. But there
are some which combine many kinds of game, and will well repay the organ-
(3) T
INTRODUCTION.
ization of a camping party, while some other places may be shot over during
the day, permitting the sportsman to return to his temporary home at night.
The Canadian Pacific Railway traverses country of all kinds, and has opened
up to sportsmen vast tracts hitherto almost inaccessible, and, while reaching
shooting and fishing grounds hitherto unworked, conveys its passengers to
the field of their operation in comfort and luxury. To preserve the game
from the destructive pot-hunter, the several provinces of the Dominion have
from time to time passed game laws, principally intended to regulate the
dates of the open and close seasons and to limit the number of deer that
should fall to each gun. These laws, in condensed form, are published in
this pamphlet, and should be read by those who are arranging a sporting
tour.
THE ANGLER.
Cheerily in the morning bright
Cometh the angler down the meadow.
Rosily flushed in the morning light—
Seeking the pool that lies in the shadow.
Drenched in the cool and sparkling dew
He nears the gurgling, splashing rill ;
He parts the brushwood—peeping through—
And drawing back, like a rock is still.
Then—daintily falls the fairy fly,
Softly kissing the dimpling eddy ;
Lazily floats it, light and dry,
To where a trout is waiting ready.
Lo ! now he takes the gaudy lure
With plunge, and grim heroic strength,
He fights, but cannot long endure—
Both pluck and strength are gone at length.
Then—merrily goes the angler on,
Casting around the downy feather ;
Ardently mounts the golden sun,
Making a noon of glowing weather.
Still trout on trout doth follow fast,
The creel fills as the day wears on,
And fuller yet, until at last
There is no room for even one.
Then—rosily flushed in sunset light
Tramps he homeward through the meadows
Fitfully lit by glow-worms bright,
Glancing amid the evening shadows,
Bland Pdace sits calmly in his heart,
His dear-loved home he hails with joy,
And hastens in, glad to impart
A sweet content without alloy. THE   NORTH  SHORE  OF THE   ST.   LAWRENCE   EAST   OF
MONTREAL, INCLUDING  LAKE ST. JOHN.
ATRIAL of some of the small lakes and streams, so plentiful along
the north shore of the St. Lawrence River between Montreal and
Quebec, should prove a most satisfactory undertaking to any one who
is.satisfied with killing fish of moderate weight. North of the river, some
miles inland, the rugged Laurentian range of mountains runs parallel to the
course of the St. Lawrence, and among them rises stream after stream,
feeders of the multitude of small lakes and the greater rivers, and in one and
all trout are plentiful. In general aspect this region bears some resemblance
to the Muskoka Territory ; but it is, if anything, the more picturesque of
the two, and is certainly a far superior region for the angler. It is rough
and wild to a degree in many places, and to fish it properly not unfrequently
means " roughing it " to a certain extent.    Anglers from Montreal generally
/
CHATEAU FRONTENAC, DUFFERIN TERRACE, QUEBEC.
find good sport near St. Jerome, and on the small lakes and their feeders
within seven or eight miles of New Glasgow, these points being but a short
run from Montreal. Half and three-quarter pound trout are good fish in
these waters, and, while much larger ones are but seldom taken, there are
plenty of the size mentioned. Ste. Agathe is the name of a station in the
same neighborhood, but about sixty miles from Montreal, in the centre of a
group of lakes in which there is good fishing, the trout, however, being of
moderate size ; St. Jovite is the centre of numerous fishing waters and fifteen
miles further north, at the terminus of the branch railway, is Labelle, near
which excellent sport may be obtained. In this Laurentian range, are
countless streams, lakes, and lakelets in some of which few lines have yet
been cast, but their proximity to Montreal and easy accessibility are attracting anglers in yearly increasing numbers. For many years to come,
however, they will rank amongst the best fishing waters of the continent.
(5) FISHING AND  SHOOTING.
Among the hills northward of St. Barthelemi, sixty-four miles east of
Montreal and distant from that station fifteen miles, are waters that will be
found well worth a trial ; and the headwaters and tributaries of the St.
Maurice River, which flows into the St. Lawrence at Three Rivers, are
abundantly stocked with fair-sized fish. The St. Maurice is navigable to
La Tuque, seventy-five miles north of Grand Piles (which is reached by railway)' and there is a regular line of steamboats running between these points.
Good guides can be procured at Grand Piles for $1.25 to $1.50 and board
per day, and canoes for 75 cents to $1.00 per day. It is possible to get by
way of the St. Maurice river and tributaries to Lake St. John by three
different routes ; by little Bostonias River, by Big Bostonias River and La
Croche River and then from lake to lake. Two-days and a half are occupied
in making the portages. There is no river emptying direct into Lake St.
John. Fishing is good all the way across. The celebrated Mastigouche
chain of lakes is reached by stage from St. Gabriel, the terminus of the
Joliet branch, and distant from Montreal seventy-eight miles. The headquarters for anglers is the Mastigouche House, a well-managed stopping
place. The Shawenegan River, reached by stage from Lac a la Tortue
(Turtle Lake) or Three Rivers, usually furnishes heavy strings of trout as
handsome and gamey as can be taken anywhere, and big ones are fairly
plentiful. The Shawenegan House will be found a comfortable, well-
managed hotel, where no effort is spared to oblige visitors or insure their
finding good sport.
The station of Portneuf, thirty miles from the city of Quebec, is a promising objective point. A drive from there about fifteen miles up the river
will bring one to excellent fishing in the river above and below the falls. In
an afternoon and evening a well-known angler of Montreal killed sixteen
dozen trout, and they were a handsome lot of fish. Two pounds and a half
were reached by several, and the smallest was over half a pound, the majority
ranging between the latter weight arid a pound and a quarter. It was in
July (the best month on that water), and wherever a little stream poured its
icy current into the river the fish were in great numbers, and rose so
eagerly that, in his own words, " the water fairly boiled with trout at every
cast."
There are some good points for the angler around about Quebec City, and
he will find at the Chateau Frontenac, the palatial fire-proof hotel on which
$1,000,000 has been expended, delightful headquarters from which to make
excursions. The Chateau Frontenac, which ranks amongst the finest hotels
of the continent, is picturesquely located on the celebrated Dufferin Terrace,
and is the rendezvous of tourists and sportsmen from all parts of the globe.
Nearly due north, and 190 miles distant from the city of. Quebec, lies the
much-written-of Lake St. John, the " Pikouagami" (Flat Lake) of the
Indians, the headwaters of the wonderful Saguenay River, and the home of
the ouananiche. By means of the Quebec & Lake St. John Railway, this
lake is now easily reached, the line running to the shore.
Writers differ in describing this lake, some, who possibly have never seen
1 1111that M surroundi,1gs are wild and picturesque in the fullest sense
au-
of the term ; others, and they correctly, speak of the scenery as being be*u.
tiful at points here and there upon the lake, but improving wonderfully if
he tourist explores some of the tributary rivers. It must be remembered
that this is no newly-discovered spot, as many people imagine. Over 200
years ago it was well known, and at present, instead of the wilderness de- NORTH SHORE OF THE ST. LAWRENCE AND LAKE ST. JOHN.
scribed by some writers, the visitor will find many well-tilled farms and
several small villages upon the south and west shores.
Chief of these villages is Roberval, the lake terminus of the railway.
Here the Hotel Roberval, a large, well-built house, luxuriously furnished,
and having electric light, baths, bowling alley, ball room, and all modern
hotel conveniences, offers comfortable accommodation for 300 guests. Mon-
tagnais Indians may be secured as guides from their village close by. They
are thoroughly posted in regard to the best localities for fishing, and have
plenty of canoes. A beautifully equipped and seaworthy steamer, the
Mistassini—with accommodation for four hundred persons—plies between
Roberval and all interesting points upon the lake, taking anglers and camp
outfits to Grande Decharge and other noted fishing resorts. Tents, canoes,
camp supplies, etc., can all be hired at the hotel at moderate rates. At
Grande Decharge an auxiliary hotel, the "Island House," has been built
upon one of the islands in the centre of the fishing grounds, with accommodation for 100 persons.
Eighteen rivers, large and small, empty into Lake St. John ; in one or
two of these the ouananiche furnish good sport, and all of them are well
stocked with speckled trout. Of these the Peribonca is navigable by
steamer for thirty miles from its mouth, the Ticouapee for the same distance, the Mistassini for about twenty miles, and the Ashuapmouchouan
(the river where they watch the moose, in Indian parlance) for about fifteen
miles. The Ouiatchouan Riven is perhaps the most attractive, its special
feature being Ouiatchouan Falls, a noble cascade falling 280 feet. Another
tributary of the lake is the Metabetchouan River, at the mouth of which
farmers' houses offer shelter for sportsmen, who will, however, do best to
make their headquarters at the Roberval hotel, whence trips may be conveniently made to all these points. This is the headquarters of the Fish
and Game Club of Springfield, Mass., and may be reached by rail from
Roberval, or from Chambord Junction, Lake St. John, distant five miles.
It would be difficult to imagine a more attractive centre for the canoer
and fisherman than this broad lake, with its hundreds of miles of tributary
rivers, extending far into a great unknown land, of which present description amounts to little more than mere guesswork. With his skilled Indian
guides and light canoe the explorer can follow the streams at will, penetrating to the lonely haunts of big game in regions rarely, if ever, visited by a
white man, travelling for day after day upon streams swarming with trout,
and finding sport unlimited, and countless charming subjects for brush,
pencil, or camera, until the fascinating trip is ended.
In Lake St. John and several of the rivers are the wonderful ouananiche.
Marvellous tales have been told of them ; and, while writers disagree in details, especially as regards their size, all are unanimous in declaring that the
ouananiche is one of the gamiest, strongest, and hardest fighting fish that
ever tested skill and tackle. You may read surprising stories of their
weight; but, if you get fast to one of five pounds or over, you can rest
satisfied that you are in luck indeed, and you will speedily find five pounds
of ouananiche are amply sufficient to have on your tackle at one time.
Their strength and agility are simply astounding ; they dart hither and
thither with electric rushes, and leap wildly into the air in a fashion calculated to rattle the coolest hand with a rod, e'en though he be an old salmon
fisher ; and when the long, hard fight is done and the victim safely landed,
it is a prize of which any one is justified in feeling proud. FISHING  AND   SHOOTING.
The outlet of Lake St.  John is in the Grande Decharge and Petite i
Decharge, which finally unite and form the Saguenay River.    The swirling j
current of the  Grande  Decharge  rushes  down  furiously,  bearing great
patches  of foam,  which turn and evolute here and there in increasing
motion.    Among these the ouananiche feed, and in a good day you may see
an endless succession of broad tails showing and disappearing as the fish
rise after their prey.     Hook one, and your work is cut out for you.     He
will in all likelihood give you an exhibition of high and lofty tumbling that
you will never forget, and possibly will leap bodily into the canoe or over it
(they have done both repeatedly), and tax your utmost skill and patience ere
he yields.     A salmon cast with Jock Scott, Curtis, or Silver Doctor flies is j
the most effective as a rule, though at low water smaller flies and finer
tackle must be used.     Heavier fish may be taken by trolling on the lake,
but a four- or five-pounder is stronger than a salmon of much greater weight,
and will afford better sport.
Perhaps the greatest pleasure connected with a trip to Lake St. John
would be, when leaving, to hire canoes and guides and descend the Saguenay to Chicoutimi, which can also be reached by rail, and from thence by
steamer back to Quebec. This trip will reveal scenery that is famous in
America ; and, while it is hard, and the way marked with several wild
rapids, they can usually be run safely enough, or portaged. There is no
more tempting adventure for the true canoeman than the glorious rush
down the rapid stream in a staunch canoe, with experienced men to guide
the craft. You don't take your life in your hands, but simply make a
thrilling dash amid snowy foam and scattering spray,—safe enough with
skilful hands at the paddles, but not otherwise.
Between the city of Quebec and Lake St. John the Quebec & Lake
St. John Railway traverses a country of wild beauty, the route leading
amid the picturesque Laurentian Mountains, crossing several streams, and
touching upon some fine lakes noted for the abundance and large size of
the trout found in them. Quite a number of these lakes are controlled by
fishing clubs, but the largest, Lac Edouard, has been leased by the railway
company, and is open to all visitors. It contains plenty of big trout, and is
among the most beautiful scenery of all the attractive district. Upon the
shore of Lac Edouard, and but a few yards from the railway, is a comfortable hotel, the Laurentides House, where fishermen can obtain camp outfits,
guides, canoes, skiffs, etc., at reasonable rates. Two small steamers ply
upon Lac Edouard, and may be utilized for all sorts of delightful excursions upon the lake, or as means of easily reaching camping-grounds close
to the shadowy haunts of trout. A Summer vacation can be very pleasantly
spent in visiting these waters and killing brilliantly colored trout weighing
as high as five pounds. Grouse are also fairly plentiful along the line, and
it is also an excellent country for caribou after winter fairly sets in.
After spending a few days or weeks at Roberval,  the sportsman or?
tourist should take the train to Chicoutimi, a distance of sixty-four miles,
and return to Quebec by one of the magnificent Saguenay steamers.
East of the Saguenay are many excellent salmon fishing streams, notable
among which is the Washeeshoo, reached from Quebec fortnightly by the
steamer Otter and by coasting vessels. In the upper reaches of the river
are quantities of fine red trout ; otter are found near the mouth, and there
are seal and wild fowl of all kinds on the sea-coast, and caribou, lynx,
bear, and smaller game in the woods. LAKE MEGANTIC AND MOOSEHEAD LAKE.
AMONG all the countless waters and shooting grounds reached by the
Canadian Pacific Railway, few can offer more varied attractions to
the sportsman than these two famous lakes, and the lesser lakes,
streams, and ponds surrounding them, unless, indeed, we seek the north
shore of Lake Superior or the Canadian Northwest. Those who have not
the time to spare for a journey to Western Canada can find shooting and
fishing enough to satisfy them by visiting these grand waters and testing the
portions of the Province of Quebec and the State of Maine adjacent to them.
The fame of the Rangeley Lakes of Maine is known to every reader of
sporting literature, and all that has been written of them will apply equally
well to this territory.
Nor is it necessary to undertake a long and tiresome journey to reach
this attractive region.    The Canadian Pacific Railway's " Short Line " from
Montreal to the Maritime
Provinces renders it easy of
access, and the traveller who
makes Montreal his initial
point for this trip will find
solid comfort all the way,
and only a short run' by rail
before the Mecca of his pilgrimage is gained.
Both Megantic and Moosehead can boast of beautiful
surroundings in the fullest
Sjj sense of the term, and both are capital points
for those contemplating a holiday with canoe
and camera. There is no fear of the changeful panorama of water and island, mountain and forest, growing monotonous,
or of the voyageur finding himself, after a week's explorations, sighing for
fresh fields. The manifold interesting features of these magnificent forest
jewels are of the kind that wear well, and a man might cruise about for
several months, and then go away with many attractive points yet unvisited.
Butwhile the lover of the silent craft and the camera can find abundant
" opportunities for gratifying his taste, it is to the angler and sportsman that
this region specially appeals.
This is the chosen " stamping-ground " of moose, caribou, and deer, and
he must needs be a poor hand at shooting who cannot kill enough big game
to satisfy any one worthy of the name of sportsman. But it must not be
imagined that the animals mentioned can be slaughtered at will, particularly
moose and caribou. A hunter of any experience will know better than this,
and the novice will learn that even in this favored locality they do not stand
around like cattle in a barnyard to be " potted " by any one able to pull a
trigger. But even a green hand should be able to readily secure a deer, if
aided by an experienced guide ; for the common deer is simply abundant,
and residents think no more of the capture of one than a sportsman in one
(9) FISHING  AND   SHOOTING.
of the over-hunted covers thinks of bagging a ruffed grouse. Even the tyro,
therefore, can safely depend upon securing a trophy to prove his prowess to
his friends at home, and he may also get a shot at a moose or caribou, and
perhaps kiln either, or both, if his nerve fails not—which it is very apt to
do. Speaking of moose and caribou as being plentiful is not to be taken -
in the same sense as when the term is applied to deer; but you can go to
these grounds satisfied that you have a most promising chance of seeing
both ere your holiday is done, with a certainty of getting deer if you can
handle a rifle at all, and killing plenty of ruffed grouse, and perhaps having
a crack at a black bear by way of variety. The favorite method of hunting
at Lake Megantic is '' jacking" (or fire-hunting) upon the water-courses
and bogs. It is a murderous method, maybe, but at the same time very
fascinating, to go noiselessly gliding along in a canoe through the darkness
of night, until the jack-light is reflected by the glowing eyeballs of some
feeding deer, or moose, or caribou, that has paused in his repast to study
the wonderful phenomenon before him. This method is deadly with a
vengeance ; and, as frequently from three to five deer will be " shined " in
a single night, game will almost certainly be secured. Still-hunting can,
of course, be followed here, as everywhere else, with good result. There is
also capital duck shooting in the fall.
Lake Megantic is the largest body of water in the Canadian territory
adjacent to Maine, being twelve miles in length by from one to four miles
broad. Its shores are rugged and exceedingly picturesque, and deeply indented with inlets and bays, the coast line measuring some forty odd miles.
Its principal feeders are the Lower Spider and Arnold Rivers, also the
Annance, Victoria, and Sandy Rivers, and^numerous lesser streams, and its
outlet is the Chaudiere River, which leaves the lake at the bay of the same
name, within ioo yards or so of the Canadian Pacific Railway station at
Megantic, and empties into the St. Lawrence near Quebec. There are
several fairly good hotels in the village, and experienced guides can be secured there at moderate charges. The best localities for moose, caribou,
and deer are Annance Bog, near the mouth of Annance River,—which flows
in at the head of the lake,—and up the stream from its outlet for a couple
of miles, the shores and bog being favorite feeding grounds. The Annance
is navigable by skiff or canoe as far as mentioned. Other good bogs and
points for game will be known to the guides and reached under their
directions.
Fishing in Megantic is variable, as is always the case on such large
waters. On a good day heavy strings will be taken, big lake trout scaling
as high as twenty-five pounds being caught on the trolls during June and
September. In the bays and inlets speckled trout rise readily to the fly, -
and every stream emptying into the lake is plentifully stocked with them,
the fish running to fair size. On Chaudiere Bay, Moose Bay, the Victoria
and Annance Rivers, and all the lesser streams and inlets, the brook-trout
fishing is good, and there is no difficulty in taking fine strings of fish.
Separated from Lake Megantic by a " carry " of a trifle less than three-
quarters of a mile is the famous " Macannamac," or Spider Lake, ranking
next in size to Megantic. This lovely water, lying 3000 feet above the sea-
level and sleeping amid rugged mountains, has been aptly dubbed " the
Geneva of Canada." Upon its shore is the club-house of the Megantic
Fish and Game Club, which corporation controls it and a fine territory with
similar facilities for sport to that just described.
V^ A short run by rail from Megantic over the Boundary Mountains, which
divide the Province of Quebec from the State of Maine, enables travellers
by the " Short Line " to reach one of Maine's most lovely sections, and also
one of the best for sport; one of the most promising points for ruffed grouse
and red deer being Lowelltown station. Shortly after crossing the international boundary the headwaters of the Moose River appear, the line following the stream and its chain of lakes closely until the shore of Moosehead
Lake is reached, and finally the Canadian Pacific Railway station and town
of Greenville.
The headwaters and chain of lakes of the Moose River, in addition to
being perfect gems of natural beauty, are first-rate for speckled trout, the
fish running to good size, and quite plentiful enough to keep the rod busy.
An exploration of this chain of waters would richly repay the labor, and
furnish all the essentials for a thoroughly enjoyable outing. Lakes and
river, all included, extend for about twenty-five miles before the current
reaches Moosehead Lake, the scenery being very pretty, and the greater
portion of the water furnishing good fishing. The variety and quality of
game to be found at the several points about these lakes and kindred waters,
and others easily reached from Greenville station, are about the same as at
Megantic.
A glance at a map will show why this part of Maine is such a noted
game and fish country. Lakes and ponds and small streams fairly net the
whole region, offering grand facilities for the trout fisher ; and, as they
thread the very strongholds of moose, caribou, bear, and deer, the lover of
the rifle can readily guess what fine opportunities are offered for the capture
of one or all of the animals named. In addition, quite a number of duck
and other game can be found, and in such splendid covers as those shaggy
woods ruffed grouse of course abound.
To give a separate description of the different waters would require a
book much larger than this. Their name is legion and the great majority
of them are well stocked with trout, and a few with land-locked salmon.
Guides, necessaries for a camping party, and information concerning the
best points for sport can be obtained at Greenville. Spencer, Indian,
Squaw, Wilson, and Roach Ponds, Brassau Lake, and all the little streams
that feed Moosehead, are noted for trout, and the guides can pilot you to
many others. Those preferring to make their headquarters at Greenville
will find good accommodations in the large hotel upon the shore ; plenty of
boats, and ample means of enjoyment ; and there are steamers on the lake
to take the visitor where he wills. On account of high elevation hay fever
is unknown in this locality.
Moosehead Lake is forty miles long by from two to fifteen wide, with
many islands, large and small; and its shores, for wild beauty, compare
well with its Canadian or American sisters. The surrounding hills are
lofty and covered with dense forests ; and here and there a towering mountain rears high above the tangle of lofty woods, forming pictures of which the
eye never wearies. Grandest of all is Mount Kineo, at the base of which is
the Kineo House, a commodious summer hotel with 250 rooms, and conducted in first-class style. Its appearance reminds one of the popular
resorts of the sea-coast, and it is the rendezvous for a small army of tourists
during the season. Close beside it is a handsome club-house, owned by
American gentlemen who come each season for the fishing. A large general Store is close at hand, where camp supplies, etc., may be purchased, 12
FISHING AND   SHOOTING.
and there are plenty of competent guides and good canoes and skiffs available.   The above brief mention does not include one-third of the trout waters I
to which the guides will show the way.   A particularly inviting trip by canoe j
can be made by leaving Moosehead Lake by the '' north carry," portaging over i
to the West Branch of the Penobscot River, and thence down stream, with I
good fishing, varied scenery (including the celebrated Mount Katahdin, a mass I
of granite a mile high), and a dash of adventure to lend an additional charm |
to the cruise.    The East Branch of the Penobscot, the Allagash, St. John,
and Aroostook are also reached by following the West Branch to Lake
Chesumcook and thence north.    Particulars of these routes maybe obtained
from the guides,   or by consulting Steele's  "Paddle and Portage" and
" Canoe and Camera," which contain maps of the region and clever descriptions of trips by that accomplished canoeist, and " Hubbard's Guide
to Moosehead Lake and Northern Maine," which covers the entire " pond
region."   The outlet of Moosehead Lake is distant from Greenville about
twelve miles, and is the beginning of the Kennebec River.    There is a comfortable hotel there, at Moosehead Station, and anglers can find accommodation at the Carrys, at the head of the lake, the fishing, close at hand,
being equal to many of the more remote localities.    By going down stream
ip canoes, Indian Pond and other crack trout pools are reached, and close
to the river there will be found plenty of game.    From this brief description it may be learned that the Megantic and Moosehead regions are fit for
the careful attention of veterans of rod and guh ; and a trial of them will
speedily convince any one that the above statement falls short of the reality
instead of overdrawing the picture.
Following the Canadian Pacific Railway's " Short Line " beyond Greenville, the route traverses for some considerable distance a similar country to
that which has already been referred to ; through favorite haunts of forest
game, and passing many lakes, and crossing streams that are full of gamey
trout. Lake Onaway, or " Ship Pond," as it is also called, and Schoodic
Lake are among these, and two more beautiful waters cannot be wished by
those preferring to camp beyond the bustle of the busy haunts of men. By
this line, which shortens the journey from Montreal to the Maritime Provinces by nearly 300 miles, several of the world-famous salmon rivers of New
Brunswick and Nova Scotia are easily reached, and the advantages it offers
will be appreciated by all sportsmen. NEW BRUNSWICK.
THE Province of New Brunswick has long had an -unchallenged reputation as a land for the hunter and the fisherman. Its possibilities as
a field for exploits with rod and rifle have not been exaggerated by
the most enthusiastic writers, for they are such that the simple truth suffices
to do them justice. While the resources of the country in this respect are
well known, there is yet much to be sought out in the little-explored forests
and rarely frequented lakes and streams. Each year adventurous sportsmen
make discoveries of new worlds to conquer in their outing for the next
season, and the man who visits the forests, lakes and streams of New
Brunswick once, is, when the circumstances permit, thereafter to be counted
on as an annual visitor. Nor is it difficult to come every year, or every
month of the year,.did his tastes and opportunities lead him to do so. No
part of America where game and fish are found is more easily reached than
is New Brunswick, and there are few trips indeed where the expenditure can
be kept within such reasonable bounds. With less than twenty-four hours
of easy railway ride from Montreal or Boston, the traveller may alight in
the centre of the hunting and fishing region, and in some instances he may
be so near his camp as to make the rest of his way on foot, if he so. desire.
At all times during his stay he is within easy reach of the mails and
telegraph lines, and so, while apart from the busy world he may yet be in
touch with it so far as occasion may require or his inclination prompt him.
In some parts of the continent which are in more or less favor with
sportsmen, a railway or stream carries a traveller to the outskirts of the region
of which he is in search, and leaves him to surmount difficulties which have
been neither forseen nor desired by him. In New Brunswick, however, there
is a large amount of railway line in proportion to the area of the Province,
and in the case of the Canadian Pacific Railway and its connections, the
lines run directly through the territory where the finest sport in the country
is to be found. That is to say, some of the most choice areas of forest in
this Province were given as a subsidy for the construction of a portion of the
line by the original owners, and through these areas are many fishing
streams, crossed by the railway at their lower portions and having their
head waters in the trackless wilderness. Thus it is that while the road is
in touch with all the settlements along its line, it is equally in touch with an
earthly paradise for those who carry the rod or rifle. From McAdam
Junction, near the Maine boundary, the whole Province lies open for a choice
of routes to the stranger in search of sport. Should he desire an outing
partly for the pleasures of a summer resort, free from the heat and the
crowds of the fashionable resorts in the United States, he may make his
headquarters at St. John, St. Andrews, St. Stephen, Fredericton, at all of
which he will have plenty of society and enjoy all the comforts of life, with
the luxuries as well, if he is so inclined. Yet from any of these points and
from many smaller but comfortable resorts, he may readily reach the
hunting and fishing grounds. The enthusiastic sportsman, of course, will
make the woods his home, but there are some who want a variety of
recreation, and not wholly forest scenery.
11 14
FISHING AND  SHOOTING.
St. Andrews has already a high repute as a summer resort, with its
hotel equal to that of any watering-place on the coast, and its scenery which
fears no rival anywhere among seaside resorts. Here there is fishing in
both salt and fresh water. For the former, Passamaquoddy Bay and the Bay
of Fundy give unlimited scope, while for trout, land-locked salmon and
togue, are a number of lakes and streams at an easy driving distance.
Among them are Chamcook, Limeburner, Bartlett, Stein's, Snowshoe,
Welsh, Cram, Turner, McCullough and Creasy Lakes, as well as the
Digdeguash and other streams. Once in St. Andrews, the visitor will find
no lack of places in which to seek for and find fish. As to hunting, the
woods in every direction abound with deer and a great variety of smaller
game.
Between the boundary and St. John, along the line of railway, are a j
number of lakes and streams of note, including Harvey, South Oromocto,
Long and Victoria Lakes.    These are chiefly for trout, but if the visitor
seeks salmon there is but the need of a little longer journey to reach the
tributaries of the river St. John.    There are, however, both trout and landlocked salmon in Skiff Lake,   only three miles from Canterbury Station,
The Tobique is a stream of such great natural beauty that a mere sojourn j
here in the summer would reward one.    Its good looks are not the best part i
of it, however, for it is a great river for both salmon and trout.    The main j
stream is more than sixty miles long to what are called the Forks, and these i
latter each have nearly as great a length.    Both the main and the smaller
streams afford good fly fishing and the catches of trout by individual sports- >
men have been the basis of many amazing but strictly true big fish stories.
The Tobique is most conveniently reached from Perth Junction, opposite
Andover, by the Tobique Valley branch of the C. P. Ry., which skirts the i
river up to Plaster Rock.
To the south-west of this is the south-west branch of the Miramichi", ]
reached from Bristol Station by a drive of fifteen miles.    There are many :
points on this famous stream for the exploits of the fisherman, and they can
be easily learned by enquiiy anywhere along the route.    The Forks has a '
special reputation for salmon and trout.    Of the branches, the best salmon
are in the Little Tobique and the finest trout in Campbell River.    Tobique
Lake is at the head of the Little Tobique and has a fame for the size and •
abundance of the trout in its waters.    From here, should one wish, a portage
might be made to Nipisiquit Lake, the headwaters of the stream of that '■
name which empties into   the Bay Chaleur.    The   Gulf  shore of  New
Brunswick, with its streams, may be reached by rail across the country from
Fredericton.
Near Andover is a branch of the road running from Aroostook Junction
into the State of Maine by which the fishing and shooting of the famed '<
country known as the Aroostook may be reached.    There are a number of
lakes and streams and all kind of game in the woods.
At Grand Falls, there is much to be seen in the natural wonders of the
river and from there one may set out in whatever direction he pleases, with
the assurance of finding sport to reward his trouble.
Edmundston is a place of considerable importance to the traveller, not
only because it is the northern limit of his railway journey, but because it if.I
in the heart of a district famed for its fishing.    There are many waters from
which to make a choice and all of them are good, for there is good fishing
everywhere in the Upper St. John and all tributary and adjacent waters. NEW BRUNSWICK.
15
From here, too, may be reached the headwaters of the Restigouche and of
a number of streams that flow into the river St. Lawrence. In addition to
trout, the large fish known as the toledi is abundant in this part of the
country, as evidenced by the existence of Toledi Lake. A twenty-pound
toledi is by no means a rarity and some are much larger. In the vicinity
of Edmundston are such rivers as the Madawaska and Green River and such
lakes as the Temiscouata and Squatook. Twenty miles distant from
Edmundston, and reached also from Caribou, is the Fish River, or Eagle
Lakes, lying within the boundaries of Maine. Some eight lakes are connected with this river.
As for shooting, the country to the westward of Edmundston has not
only deer and caribou but moose. Splendid specimens of the latter, veritable
monarchs of the forest, are secured every season, and under the game laws of
recent years, there is likely to be moose hunting in many parts of the country where these animals resorted years ago. A moose measuring four and a
half feet between the antlers is by no means a rare specimen of the game
in the woods of New Brunswick.
Taking St. John as a point of destination, the sportsman cannot only
have all his wants supplied in the way of outfit, but he can learn from many
trustworthy informants just where to make his choice of a river, lake or
camping-ground from which to secure the results sought in his individual
case. The whole Province is before him and there is a great variety of
territory from which to choose. From this point, too, access to every part
of the country is easy, and at the worst, whichever way he may go, the
journey will be but a question of a few hours. NOVA SCOTIA   AND NEWFOUNDLAND.
BETWEEN Yarmouth and Sydney—the two extremities of Nova
Scotia—there are innumerable spots which offer great attractions to
the keen sportsman, whether he seeks his pleasure with the hook
and line or with the gun. At the Tusket Lakes near Yarmouth, in the
country, round Digby, and at different points in the Annapolis and Cornwallis Valleys, as well as around the famed Bras d'Or Lakes and tributary
waters in Cape Breton and along the south shore of the entire Province, the
opportunities for sport are unexcelled, the favorite haunts as a rule not
being difficult of access. In some localities moose and other large game
are plentiful. The fishing and shooting regions of the western part of
Nova Scotia are reached from St. John, N. B., by the fast steamer Prince
Rupert which makes two round trips daily, during the summer season,
between that city and Digby, there connecting with the Dominion Atlantic
trains for Yarmouth to the south, and Halifax to the east. From Halifax,
there is regular communication by the Intercolonial Railway with Cape
Breton. The Intercolonial also runs direct from St. John to Halifax, via
Moncton and Amherst, connection being made with Sydney, North Sydney
and other Cape Breton points at Truro.
By the inauguration of a new route during the summer of 1897 between
Sydney and Port aux Basques, the island of Newfoundland is brought
within easy distance of the mainland ; and the grave objection of some to
an oceen voyage practically avoided. The water trip only occupies six
hours, and is made in the luxuriously appointed steamer yubilee. From
Port aux Basques the centre of the Island is traversed through the most
favored fishing and shooting regions to the capital, St. John's.
Few countries present to the lovers of sport the attractions that Newfoundland possesses. Its countless lakes and ponds abound with trout of
the finest description, and are the feeding-places of the wild goose, duck,
and other fresh-water fowl. Finer salmon streams can scarcely be found.
One writer says :
" All the rivers are free, that is anyone can fish in them, and most of the
rivers can be reached by train from St. John's or from Port aux Basque situated near Cape Ray.- There is a good river at Codroy and several rivers
between there and Bay of Islands, none of which have been much fished.
These rivers are said to be fairly early, the best time being from the middle
of June to the middle of the following month. There is a good river at
Hawkes Bay called the Torrent but it is not easily got at and is probably
later than the rivers already named. It yields heavy fish, say from ten to
thirty pounds. The Salmonier River, seven hours' journey from St. John's,'
yields capital sport if it is in good fishing order, all of July, but the fish
are small, say from two to five pounds. One might get from two to twenty
such fish in one day. There is the Exploits River about twenty-four hours
journey from St. John's by train. It has not been much fished and the fish
in it run from five to fifteen pounds. There is a river in Hare Bay, North
East Coast, full of salmon towards the end of July, but they are not large,
say about five pounds,    It takes one about three days by Coastal steamer to
(16) NOVA  SCOTIA AND  NEWFOUNDLAND.
17
reach this river. The salmon in at least one of the rivers between Codroy
and Bay of Islands, are very large, say twenty to thirty pounds, but I have
known only one of that size taken with the fly. They have not been much
fished by those knowing how to fish. Taking one river with another, July
is the best month to fish them and the salmon in them as a rule, run small.
I use very small flies and my favorites are the Jock Scott, Silver
Doctor, and a fly with a claret body and a teal wing. The Coachman is
an excellent fly for the rivers north of this part of the Island. To successfully fish the rivers it is necessary to camp on their banks, as the best fishing
is nearly always got very early in the morning and in the evenings when
the sun has set. This means using a tent. Food of all kinds can be
obtained and guides can, as a rule, be got at the rivers. I always use a
grilse rod, but some few of the rivers are heavy enough for a salmon rod."
Vast herds of caribou traverse the island in periodical migrations from
south to north and furnish the highest prizes for the sportsman. Stags have
been shot which weighed from five hundred to six hundred pounds. September and October are the months for stalking, and the assistance of
Mic-mac guides is requisite. F"or the more adventurous, there are the
black bear and the wolf in the interior ; and the beaver and otter are found
there around.the lonely lakes and lakelets. Hares are in great abundance,
and the willow grouse or ptarmigan, the rock ptarmigan, the curlew, the
plover, the snipe, are found in the proper season, all over the island, on the
great "barrens," or in the marshy grounds in immense numbers, and
around the shores and islands are innumerable sea-pigeons and guillemots,
or " murrs " or " turrs " as they are called in the vernacular.
I- THE RIDEAU LAKES.
A FEW miles north of the River St. Lawrence, in Ontario, and easily
reached from Kingston, Brockville, and Smith's Falls, are a couple
of large, island-dotted lakes with waters of crystal, which are an unsurpassed resort for the ardent sportsman. These are the winsome Rideau
Lakes. By the construction of the Rideau Canal, a watery highway connecting the capital city of Ottawa and the historic city of Kingston was
opened—a distance of 125 miles. When the canal was constructed the
course of the Rideau River was naturally followed, and the stream utilized
as far as possible ; and when the several locks were completed, and the
waters restrained from flowing through their natural outlet, great tracts of low-
y^flMMi,
from "Outing,
Copyrighted.
RUFFED GROUSE.
lying woodland and marshy spots were deeply flooded, forming what are now
known as the "Drowned Lands." The Rideau was always a fine bass
water, and under the altered conditions it not only held its own, but so
rapidly improved that it is now the best black-bass fishing in America. As
the years passed and the flooded country ran wild, the entire aspect changed :
broad marshes were formed, overgrown with wild rice and rushes, attracting
thousand of duck and other water fowl. There is nothing, except an occasional lock, to suggest to the voyager that he is upon anything but a great
natural water highway, a broad stream widening every now and again into
lakes of greater or less extent, with long stretches of rushes and beds of rice,
weeds, and lily-pads, such as are loved by duck and fish. Besides myriads
of bass, there are land-locked salmon, one individual catch recently averages) THE RIDEAU LAKES.
19
ing twenty per day for six days, and on one day the catch being thirty, averaging seven pounds. Trout and pickerel are also plentiful, and in the fall
there is capital duck shooting. There are, besides, acres and acres of
ground that, unless their appearance is very deceptive, should be good spots
for woodcock ; and a spaniel might prove a most useful companion in working up cock and grouse, the latter being fairly plentiful at many points,
which the practised hand will no doubt locate by the appearance of the cover.
A canoe cruise of the lakes, which are singularly free from black flies,
will be found thoroughly enjoyable. While making this trip by canoe you
will pass many camps upon the shores, and meet many holiday-makers who
are, like yourself, finding healthy recreation in tracing out this pleasant
route. By far the greater portion of the way is exceedingly pretty. A camp
can be pitched almost anywhere ; should you desire to stretch your legs a
bit, you can land where you will. * All that was needed to make this angler's
paradise attractive to families—as well as to sportsmen—was the furnishing
of adequate accommodations and conveniences. This has been done by a
club of gentlemen who have purchased Long Island, on which has been
erected the Angler's Club House, a good hotel containing about forty rooms,
which is open to members. The island, on which are two miniature lakes,
is a charming retreat. For those who prefer to spend their holiday among
pretty surroundings, and at the same time remain within reach of civilization, the Rideau offers many inducements. The route is easily reached and
easily traversed, and there is no hardship connected with it. The entire trip
is inexpensive, and has been made in a week, but that of course necessitated
hard work at the paddles. A couple of weeks—or a month or longer—
could be pleasantly and profitably spent here. Should Kingston be selected
as the starting point, tourists from east or west are best conveyed thither by
the fine steamers that ply up and down upon the St. Lawrence and Lake
Ontario ; for that trip by water is rightly considered one of the most attractive available. If Ottawa or Smith's Falls be chosen, either is reached from
east or west direct by the Canadian Pacific Railway ; and no matter whether
you go by steamer or rail, your canoe, etc., will be carried with you and
carefully looked after. The steamer James Sruifl runs regularly between
Ottawa and Kingston, leaving the latter place every Monday and Thursday
at 6 A.M., and the former place every Tuesday and Friday at 3 p. M., calling
at Long Island whenever there are passengers.
THE ANGLER'S JOY.
By the stream where bend the rushes,
Where the shallows scold and sob,
There it is man's true ambitions
Wildly in his bosom throb ;
There it is the fierce sensation,
Half suspense, yet all delight, .
Strikes him as he hoarsely whispers,
" I believe I 've got a bite."
Tell me not of tottering glories ;
Of republics tempests swept;
Tell me not of heroes vanquished
Or of promises unkept.
Tales of sacrifice and valor
Later on may seem aright,
But at present—you '11 excuse me—
. " I believe I 've got a bite." SHARBOT   LAKE.
THIS famous lake is situated directly on the line of the Canadian
Pacific Railway, being about 166 miles distant from Montreal, easily
reached from Ottawa, and 169 miles from Toronto, It would be a
difficult matter to find a more suitable or beautiful spot for camping, or a
resort with such natural advantages where better sport with rod and gun can
be enjoyed. For picturesque scenery and fine water Sharbot Lake will stand
comparison with any in Ontario ; and either upon the shores or the many
pretty islands that dot its surface are beautiful camp sites for all comers.
Some of the islands are already in private hands, and are visited each summer by their owners, who bring their families for change and amusement
during the heated term.
The total number who visit this spot each season is not so very great,
but admirers of Sharbot are increasing year after year, as its advantages '
are becoming better known ; and there is no reason why it should not
steadily progress in popularity for many years to come. The attractions
are the same as usually characterize Canadian lakes—forested shores,
beautiful rocky islands, large and small, and clear cold water well stocked
with good fish.
Those who wet a line in Sharbot invariably depart content, for heavy
strings are to be relied on. The list of fishes that may be taken there are
black and rock bass, salmon trout, pike, and a few lunge, though the latter
are seldom killed. The black bass, as might be expected, afford the finest
sport; and, to show that they attain a great size, it may be mentioned
that one of the heaviest small-mouthed black bass on record was taken
there. Trolling is a standard method, but a good hand with a rod can
have the pleasure of killing fine fish with the fly, with worms or minnow
bait, the latter being somewhat difficult to procure, but very deadly if available. Those who understand the ways of crayfish can find the sharp-nipping, "retrograde" fellows under stones and other shelter; and it is
seldom that a black or rock bass is able to resist one of these tempting
morsels, if properly placed on the hook. A very efficient method is to use a
good-sized hook, and, having secured the crayfish, insert the barb into the
mouth and push the hook along until the point is well clear of the tail of
the bait. The crayfish is of course killed as dead as ditch-water, but that
matters not at all. The curve of the hook rounds him to a natural shape,
and if you send him down rapidly, he will represent exactly the backward
rush of the live " nipper " going to the rocks for shelter ; and, if there are
bass about, he will be promptly seized, even when live minnows and artificial baits prove useless. " It's a mighty captivatin' dainty," as a friend
once roared out on his first trial of one rigged for him, after he had changed
from minnow to worm, and spoon, and artificial lures all in vain'; for the
crayfish had hardly sunk five feet in the clear water ere'a huge bass darted
from among the rocks and gathered it in, and gave him a set-to that he
never forgot. When fishing with crayfish, care should be taken never to
jerk them upward unless actually striking a fish, for they are easily broken.
By tender handling two fish may be taken with the same bait, and sometimes
(20) SHARBOT LAKE.
21
three or even four—a matter well worth attention with such difficult lures
to secure. Trolling with bass spoons should always insure a fine string at
Sharbot, and artificial baits might be tried with advantage. A fair catch
would run from a dozen good fish up to three times that number for a morning's work—quite enough to repay one's exertions ; and the chance of landing an extra big one always maintains the interest.
The lake was well stocked with salmon spawn some years ago, and a considerable number of these are now caught. Being a cold water fish they
remain in deep water until the water in shallow places becomes cold. From
the early part of October to the middle of November the catch is good.
There is hotel accommodation for a limited number, and a few boats,
right on the spot. Board will cost about $i per day, and $2.50 a day will
secure a good man and his boat, and for fifty cents extra live minnows will
be furnished. Flies are not so bad at Sharbot as upon many other good
waters, and trouble the angler but little after June 15, and disappear
altogether about two weeks later.
This lake is a noted resort for duck in the fall, being one of the best in
that part of the country. Many handsome bags have been made there, running as high as fifty birds in a day to one gun. The great majority of these
duck are what are styled " fall duck," that breed farther north, and merely
rest a week or so at the lake while upon their southerly migration. It is
therefore impossible to set an exact time for a visit, as much depends upon
the weather ; but the month of October should be about right. Earlier in
the season a number are sometimes killed, but it is generally uncertain work.
m liil* THE RIVER TRENT AND ADJACENT WATERS; AND
PETERBORO.
THIS is a region as yet comparatively little known to the majority of
tourist-sportsmen and anglers ; yet it is one of the best available,
especially for those who make Toronto their starting point. Leaving Toronto by the Canadian Pacific Railway, Havelock Station is reached
within four hours, and the cost of a return ticket is only a trifle over $5,
or in other words, you can leave Toronto in the morning and be busy with
the black bass and lunge early in the afternoon, a feature that should bear
due weight with those who have only a few days at their disposal. Havelock,
distant 100 miles from Toronto, is the best point to select as headquarters, if a trial of the Trent is decided upon ; and the angler or sportsman can take a trip, satisfied that, unless he is one of those unfortunate
beings who seem specially selected as the victim of hard luck, he will be
richly rewarded for his trouble. Close to Havelock Station there is a comfortable hotel where visitors can make themselves perfectly at home, and
also pick up valuable pointers as to the best methods for circumventing the
big lunge and bass that claim the Trent as their home. Trent Bridge is
only three miles distant from the hotel, and you can secure conveyances
at the latter place and be driven over, and are then right on the spot.
Boats and guides can be secured at the bridge at very cheap rates, and to
many the most enjoyable method is to go into camp at one or other of the
desirable sites along the stream. Those who do not fancy spending a holiday under canvas can find excellent accommodation close at hand. From
almost the commencement until the end of the open season the lunge and
black bass fishing is Ai, except on an odd day now and again, such as will
be experienced upon any water, and ducks are very plentiful in season.
Above the bridge, towards the town of Hastings, trolling for lunge will
give satisfactory results, for the "fresh water sharks" are very numerous,
and bite freely at either spoon or live minnow or chub, and the catch will
be varied with heavy black bass. The right-hand channel at the island,
going down stream, and below the island for some two miles to the government boonl, are famous reaches for bass and lunge. Forty bass, running
from a pound to five times that weight, have been killed by a single rod
in an afternoon with minnow bait; and lunge, scaling all the way from
five to twenty or thirty pounds, have been taken, the smaller fish being
plentiful. If you want to have genuine fun with a big fellow, just troll for
lunge at this point, using a stout rod and suitable tackle, and for a surety
you will have a tussle now and then that will quicken your circulation vastly,
or you are no true lover of the gentle pastime. Fine strings of bass can
also be taken by still-fishing all along the river, between Trent Bridge and
Healy Falls and Rapids, a distance of about five miles. The stream varies
in width from 100 yards to a quarter of a mile, and here and there expands
into broad bays ; and at many points there are rocky shoals and gravel beds,
where, as the bass fisher will guess, many fine fish are sure to be..
But the spot of spots for small-mouthed black bass is below the falls.
The stream plunges down fully forty feet over a rocky ledge some 100
yards wide, and among the deep pools below is where the bass are found
in all their glory.
(22) THE  RIVER TRENT AND  ADJACENT WATERS! AND PETERBORO. 23
No chicken-hearted soft fish these, but stout voracious fellows, bred in
the cold, fast water, and game to fight for liberty to the last kick. On
proper tackle a twc-pounder, helped by the strong current, will afford as
much sport as a fish of twice the weight in a lake or sluggish stream, and
when a real heavy one takes hold (and you will hook them up to and over
four pounds), look out for squalls. He will tax your nerve and skill to the
utmost, for it is no tyro at the art that can play one of these dusky acrobats
to his death under such conditions. The writer well remembers one glorious day, when thirty-eight grand fish were killed on the pools below the
falls and farther down stream during an afternoon. The bait was live
minnow, on that occasion, and there is no reason for doubting that more
could have been taken, for only a moderate amount of work was done.
Crayfish, worms, and any of the good artificial baits should prove deadly,
especially the "phantom," in such rapid water, and a short distance down
stream fine records have been made with the fly.
About a mile and a half below Healy Falls the Trent runs into Crow
Bay, a noted spot for both lunge and bass, and one that is almost certain
to well reward a trial.
Another excellent point on the Trent is Campbellford, twelve miles
from Havelock Station. Up and down stream from Campbellford a rod
can be kept busy all day long, and the fly fishing is particularly good. If
a letter is sent notifying the proprietor of Blute's Hotel, Campbellford, a
conveyance will be sent to meet you at Havelock, and no further trouble
need be taken, for all information as to fishing localities will be afforded.
Any one going to Havelock might as well write in advance to insure
boats and conveyance, in order that no time may be lost in getting to
work. By following this course a goodly string should be taken ere night
falls on the first day's outing.
At times ducks are fairly numerous along the river ; and if the fishing
trip is planned during the open season for water fowl, the breechloader
should be taken along, as, even if the ducks fail, there are plenty of
grouse close at hand in the woods.
One of the brightest towns of the more important centres of Canada
is Peterboro, which may be considered the birth-place of the modern
canoe. It is a convenient point from which to reach some fine lakes,
including Stony Lake, one of Canada's most charming summer resorts,
where good bass and lunge fishing can be had during June, July, August,
and September. Rice Lake, distant twelve miles, is reached by steamer
daily, and is an admirable point for camping. There is good hotel accommodation at Jubilee Point and Idlewild. Chemong Lake is seven miles
distant by rail, and Katachawanucka, nine miles. Live minnow bait will
prove deadly with lunge and bass ; the fishing is generally excellent, and
a couple of weeks may be pleasantly spent with rod and canoe, at trifling
expense. Fairly good duck and grouse shooting can be had, but deer
must be sought at distant points.
North of Havelock is a fine sporting country, both for trout, deer, and
grouse. It has been very little worked. A sportsman can go to Rathbun,
or Bancroft by rail, at both of which places there are good country hotels,
and thence drive out into the country he intends to work. THE CHAIN OF LAKES NORTH OF THE TRENT.
RANGING northward of Havelock is a region of forest, lake, and
stream, which combines picturesque scenery with good territory for
fish and game. A far-reaching chain of beautiful lakes extends
through the wild country, all linked together by small streams navigable by
canoes, excepting in a few cases, where portages have to be made. This
chain of lakes offers great inducements to canoeing and camping parties,
and one can go with canoe and camera and find countless combinations of
scenery too numerous for even bare mention ; or if rod and gun are also
taken, plenty of occupation will be found for all.
In olden days this silver pathway of waters was a favorite canoe route
for Indian hunters and trappers ; for game, great and small, was plentiful,
and many a noble buck, huge bear, and cunning beaver has fallen a victim
to the arts of man on these woodland waters. Nor has the blood of beasts
alone dyed the leave's and mosses under foot. The now silent woods have
re-echoed with the warwhoops of fighting savages, and where now one
hears but the whir of the rising grouse, or the rustle of the deer in the
thicket, the flint-headed arrow has sung upon its murderous errand, and the
tomahawk and knife settled deadly disputes.
Long ago, by this very water route, stealing noiselessly from lake to
lake and onward down the Trent, came the dusky braves of Champlain, the
fierce Huron warriors, upon their deadly raid into the stronghold of the rival
Iroquois. Hair was raised in those " good old times," and war-dances perhaps took place upon the very site of your camp, but only romantic memories
of them are left for you. Famous this region was for game and fish in the
past; and though, of course, it is not now what it was, still there is quite
(24) THE CHAIN OF LAKES  NORTH   OF THE TRENT.
25
enough for any ordinary purpose. The principal waters of the chain are
Round Lake, Belmont, Deer, Oakley, Twin, Sandy, Jack, Cushamogabog,
Tongonong, White, Gull, and Eagle Lake. Lunge and black bass fishing
in Round Lake is good, worm and minnow bait giving satisfactory results,
the sport being best after the ist of July. There are several settlers' houses
on the south shore, where lodging can be secured and a few boats are available. Ducks are plentiful, especially wood-duck, early in the season ; deer
are fairly numerous and grouse abundant in the woods, and in many of the
swales quite a number of woodcock can be found.
Belmont Lake, a few miles east of Round Lake, is best reached from
Havelock station, a three and a half mile drive, and rigs can be got at
Havelock to take sportsmen to this place. During the last season Mr. J.
Watkins, late of Toronto, has erected a large and well-furnished boarding-
house on the shores of Belmont Lake where good accommodation can be had
and on short notice he will meet sportsmen at train, and is also prepared to
furnish them with boats and other supplies for use in hunting and fishing.
There are a few boats available at Blairton, and guides can also be secured
there at small expense. The fishing is about the same as already described,
and, in fact, the general characteristics of all these waters are so similar
as to render separate description useless. The more northern lakes can be
reached by driving over the usual style of lumber road, and, though there
are no regular hotels, sportsmen can put up at the log-houses where the
teamsters hauling supplies to the lumber camps find accommodation, and be
fully as comfortable as at the average country hotel. Ruffed grouse, wood-
duck, and hare are to be found almost anywhere, and there are plenty of
deer and not a few bear, while the fishing is something to be long remembered. A few judicious enquiries at either Havelock or Blairton stations
will elicit all required information.
W«wWr THE COVERS AND WATERS OF WESTERN ONTARIO.
WESTWARD from London, Ont., the extension of the Canadian
Pacific Railway connects that city with the Detroit River, and
traverses well-known shooting grounds. Years ago it was a
famous country for deer, bear, wild turkey, grouse, quail, etc. ; but the
larger game has been completely killed off at almost every point. Here and
there, in the sixty or more miles of country between the cities of London
and Chatham, wild turkey are yet to be found, but they are protected by
law until 15th October, 1897.
But the game to be depended upon comprises quail, grouse, wood-cock,
rabbits, and a great variety of waterfowl, abounding in the western marshes.
The clearing of farms and cultivation of vast tracts of country, while it
sounded the death-knell of all the larger game, in nowise affected the quail
and rabbits, and the grouse but little. Indeed, if it had not been that increased population meant a corresponding increase in the number of guns,
there    would     be
more   birds  than
ever in the covers,
as the additional acreage
g}    under crops only means
II    an increase of their food
supply.
Quail   abound in  all
i!hl     the western counties, but
j only in the west-
HHH era portion of
Ws=l====s~3 Ontario are these
HI gamiest of all
game birds found
in Canadian territory iri sufficient
numbers to afford
sport.
They are wonderfully prolific, and, though they are subjected to far too
much shooting, fine sport can be had with them over good dogs, and excellent bags made, providing one can hold straight. From ten to as high as
thirty or more birds can be killed in a day's work in the covers of Kent and
Essex Counties. Very fair sport can be had at almost any point more than
thirty miles west of London, the sportsman also finding a few ruffed grouse,
woodcock, and a number of rabbits while penetrating the covers in pursuit
of a bevy of quail he has flushed. Plenty of birds can be found within
comfortable driving distance of Chatham, say eight or ten miles ; and one
can either put up at a country hotel along the main roads, or find quarters
at one or other of the farmhouses scattered all over the land. During
past seasons important "Field Trials" have been held near Chatham,
and birds were so plentiful that the trials were decided without much
trouble, and there is every likelihood of the same grounds being used for
(26) THE  COVERS  AND  WATERS OF WESTERN  ONTARIO. 2J
years to come. At present the law forbids the sale of quail killed in
Ontario, and this measure will insure a rapid increase in their numbers.
The game laws are being now rigidly enforced by the chief game warden
and his assistants, so that an increase in all species of game birds may be
certainly looked for, and this western section of the province become more
attractive for sportsmen in the future. From Chatham the Erie & Huron
Railway offers facilities for reaching the town of Blenheim, close to Rondeau Harbor and Lake Erie, or, in the other direction, the towns of
Dresden and Wallaceburg, on the line, and both well-known resorts for
sportsmen. Rondeau Harbor was formerly one of the best points for duck
in the country, but too much shooting has well-nigh ruined it; and, though
on a good day heavy bags can yet be made, the fowl are wild, and though
thousands may be seen, but few are killed. There are, however, plenty of
quail in the neighborhood ; here and there ruffed grouse, and in the wet
woodlands of the north shore quite a few woodcock early in the season.
Dresden or Wallaceburg are better points for all round shooting. The fishing in the Eau, from its size, is variable ; but the writer has taken forty odd
black bass and pickerel, pike, etc., in a day, and one always stands a chance
of hooking a big lunge. There is excellent plover and curlew shooting on
the bars and beaches of the Lake Erie side,
and, taken altogether, the  Eau  is a fairly    m^, ""^"""a^'.vw/^it
P ,      ,   .   ,     , , 'a/jJ/j/'y2'Ji'J!i.,/'l, ,     '/MW&m^M
The geese make their headquarters tor a time
ih the bays and ponds adjacent to Lake St. Clair.
These marshes and muddy plains are famous snipe grounds, and, while
the shooting is not now so wonderful as " Frank Forrester" enjoyed in the
olden days, it is still good enough to be well worth a trial; from fifteen to
forty birds per day being considered fair bags, though these numbers are
often doubled by crack snipe-shots. Woodcock are also frequently found
in the wet corn-fields early in the fall, and later in the dry thickets of the
uplands, where the quail haunt, and rabbits are plentiful everywhere.
Ruffed grouse may be found in the heavy woods bordering the plains at
several points, and not infrequently a fine mixed bag of grouse, cock,
snipe, quail, rabbit, and duck is made by one gun in a couple of days.
Plover are numerous in the autumn. About the mouth of the Thames and
adjacent creeks and marshes, and upon Lake St. Clair, are any number of
duck, though the good points for shooting them are comparatively few. It
must not be forgotten that the finest portions of these western marshes,
where men kill one hundred and odd big duck in a day, are strictly preserved. Several very fine club houses have been erected on the preserves,
and those who desire can very often buy shares and thus get grand shooting
and every comfort therein. Still, an outsider can generally find a bit of
sport worth going after at the points named ; and, if he has good dogs and 28
FISHING AND  SHOOTING.
varies the programme by attending to the duck at early morning, and the
quail later in the day, he should have a right good time, and bag his share
of what is going.
Fishing, both trolling and whipping with minnow or artificial bait, in
and about Baptiste and Jeanette's Creeks (both near the mouth of the
Thames) and in and about the mouth of that stream, is generally very good,
the catch including black, rock and speckled bass, pike, pickerel and perch,
The mouth of the Thames is reached from Chatham by steamer plying to
Detroit, for a mere trifle for transportation, and you can camp upon the
beach where the Thames joins Lake St. Clair, or find accommodation for a
small party at the lighthouse.
At Mitchell's Bay, on Lake St. Clair, reached either from Wallaceburg or by driving from Chatham, are hotels, and, as a general thing, good
duck shooting and black bass fishing.
The Credit Forks Trout Preserve, situate about forty-five miles northwest of Toronto, is reached by the Canadian Pacific Railway, by taking
train to Forks of Credit station and then driving about two miles. The
fish which abound in these waters are of three varieties, viz.:—the ordinary
native speckled trout, the California rainbow or mountain trout, and the
German brown or Van Buren trout. Ample accommodation for sportsmen may be had on reasonable terms during the open season. Fishing
is let out by paying so much per pound for what is caught. Further information may be had by writing to Mr. Chas. Wilmot, proprietor above
preserves, Credit Forks, Ont. THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND LAKES.
THE station for these waters is Carleton Junction, on the line   of  the
Canadian Pacific Railway, 146 miles from Montreal, 26 miles from
Ottawa, and 225 miles from Toronto.    At the junction are a couple
of good hotels, and a five minutes' walk will take you to the town of Carleton
-Place.    Board at either point will cost about $1 per day,  and men and
boats can be secured at the usual rates on the spot.    The Mississippi River
runs through the town, and it is a rapid stream, foaming and boiling over
rocky ledges and big boulders, with many deep, quiet pools and eddies, in
the shadows of which lurk plenty of black and rock bass.    The river is
Seasily fished and heavy black fellows can be taken from it, and rock bass un-
i-limited; but a better point is the first enlargement of the winding river
■known as Mississippi Lake, i This lake is three miles from Carleton Place,
and affords excellent sport, large black bass being readily hooked.    F'air-
sized pike are plentiful, lunge are scarce, but rock bass may be taken by
Sthe dozen almost anywhere.    In the fast current of the river, spoons, arti-
jficial minnows, etc., are good, but the most deadly bait is either minnow or
Scrayfish, and flies might prove useful.    A couple of miles above Mississippi
Lake is another and smaller lake, which is, perhaps, the best of the waters.
On either of them trolling with an ordinary spoon, or still-fishing with
worms, will answer   admirably.     Particulars about  the most promising
reaches can be obtained at Carleton Place; and there is also a tackle shop,
where a useful stock of lines, trolls, etc., is kept.
Some exceedingly good catches are on record for these waters, and in
the fall there is now and again some fairly good shooting, but hardly sufficient to merit special attention, though as a fishing resort it is well worth a
visit.
"Sfexr ■
t\-P.\\
(29) THE OTTAWA RIVER AND ITS TRIBUTARIES.
THE transcontinental line of the Canadian Pacific Railway, in its course i
from Carleton Junction to Winnipeg, traverses for the greater part of
the way a region of country that for sporting purposes can hardly be
excelled by anything outside of the magnificent game resorts and trout
waters of the Rocky Mountains and the wonderful prairies of the Cana- •
dian Northwest. Those, of course, are not approached by any territory on
the American continent; but the sportsman who has not time to devote to
the transcontinental tour can find all the amusement he wants, and wildly
beautiful scenery second only to the mountains, and never journey a yard
beyond Nepigon River. And if that wonderful stream is too far away for
the time at command, one need not go beyond the Ottawa River and its
tributaries to give rod and rifle full play. Sport such as no man should complain of can be enjoyed at will; trout of good size can be taken in numbers ;
and in these lonely forests are moose, caribou, deer, bear, grouse, and other
game, at many points as plentiful as they were when only the hardy voyageurs and the pioneers of olden days invaded their sanctuaries. Upon the
main, or " Transcontinental," line the first promising stopping-place is the
town of Arnprior, situated upon an expansion of the Ottawa known as Lac
des Chats, and distant from Carleton Junction about twenty-six miles.
The bass fishing in Lac des Chats is fully equal to the average waters in
Ontario, which is saying not a little, and the beauty of its scenery has made
its name famous. Upon the shores are many attractive spots for a camp ;
but tbe best of all, and the one most frequented by camping and picnic
parties, is at the beautiful Chats Rapids, where fine sport can be had with
the bass, and a week or so be pleasantly spent under canvas. No camper ever
yet returned from this point dissatisfied with either the fishing or the scenery,
and it would be an extremely difficult matter to discover a better location.
Boats, guides, and bait can be secured at Arnprior, and board there will
cost $1 per day, with guide and boats about the same. The most reliable
baits are live minnows and worms. Trolling with spoons is also a sure
method, and other artificial lures ought to do good service.
Up the Madawaska River the hunting is very good. Bear, deer, and
small game abound, and the fishing is excellent. Experienced.guides can
be secured at Arnprior, Calibogie or Madawaska station for from $1.50 to
$2.00 perday, and there is no trouble in getting canoes. The better point
to start from going up this river is Calibogie or Madawaska station. About
the last of April or early part of May is the best for cub hunting.
The town of Pembroke should be the objective point for those who seek
trout fishing unexcelled by any waters in Ontario. It is situated upon
Alumette Lake, an enlargement of the Ottawa River, and is some seventy-
eight miles from Carleton Junction, and directly upon the line of railway.
The town contains about 5,000 inhabitants, and offers good hotel accommodation at prices varying from %\ a day up. There are plenty of boats and
carriages to be hired at a moderate outlay, and it is the centre of one of the
very best trout regions in America; and there are also several places within
easy reach where capital black bass fishing is the rule.
(30) THE OTTAWA  RIVER  AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. 31
The entire country hereabouts is intersected with many streams of various sizes, all plentifully stocked with trout, the size of the fish varying in
proportion to the volume of water where they are found. A detailed list
of them would be useless, as the angler cannot go astray. On the Quebec
side of the Ottawa River, the Laurentian range of mountains forms the
bank, and every stream which courses down their slopes (and their name is
legion) is stocked with trout. On the Ontario side, and within a few miles
of Pembroke, are a half dozen waters which afford first rate fishing.
Within six miles are three good waters, in any of which an average
angler can take from thirty to forty good fish in a day.
Within twenty-five miles of the town, and out in Chichester township,
are a great many lakes, in which large catches can be made. Of these
fish too much cannot be said : they are the gamest of the game, and a
marked peculiarity about them is their uniformity in size. Among a whole
day's catch three-fourths of the fish would weigh a pound apiece, very few
running below that weight, and few or none exceeding a pound and a half.
Fifteen miles below the town are the Poquette Rapids, than which
there is no finer spot for camping. To reach this water necessitates a
pleasant drive, but the fishing is of the best.
A particularly good lake, distant from Pembroke twenty miles, can
be reached by steamer, and also the mouth of Deep River, both of these
waters furnishing good sport. Another lake is situated upon a small
mountain, within easy driving distance, and from it splendid trout can be
taken in good numbers, the fish running from one to two and a half pounds.
It is a rare occurrence to take a fish weighing less than a pound in the lake,
and you will not find a better place to wet a line. To reach it, one has to
put in a bit of up-hill tramping, but only long enough to thoroughly extend
the muscles and fit a man for a grand day's work. A peculiarity about the
trout in this and some other neighboring waters is that they appear to be of
three different varieties, though the difference is simply a matter of color
and markings.
Perhaps the first fish caught will be a fine specimen of the ordinary
brook trout, resplendent with the famous jewelled regalia which have so
often been sung and written of. The second fish may prove to be a
•paler-tinted, heavier-made fellow, game to the backbone, and swift and
strong, but lacking the beauty of number one. The angler will to a certainty eye this fish attentively, and possibly slip it into the creel with the
remark, " That's the queerest looking trout I 've seen for some time," and
he will cast again, hoping to take another.
The fly will kiss the water, and lo ! there is a sudden lightning gleam
and a fierce strain that makes the rod bow in acknowledgment, and the
reel scream a surprised protest, while the blood courses through one's
veins in swift response to the challenge of a real out-and-out fighter. The
swirling battle goes on—the maddened rushes grow shorter and weaker,
the reel cautiously devours foot by foot of the silken tether, and presently
the net sinks below a royal prize ; and as he rolls over, with a despairing
effort, the current flashes with a gleam of brightest gold, and you have
an example of what is styled in the vicinity a "golden trout." Swift,
valiant champions of the flood are they, looking as though they had been
gilded all over their lower parts with a tint that rivals the splendor of
the lazy gold-fish of glass-globe notoriety j and never did nobler quarry
test the spring of a rod.    Such are the trout of this mountain lake. 32 FISHING AND  SHOOTING.
 ; 7^
To refer again to the streams upon the Quebec side, Ouiseau Creek
deserves more than a passing notice. .The fishing is particularly good,.the
catch weighing from a quarter of a pound each up to a pound and a half.
In order to fish this creek properly, the angler must go prepared to wade,
and the water will be found clear of obstructions and the bottom safe, with
no treacherous spots to entrap the feet. Between Pembroke and the town
of Mattawa,. ninety-four miles distant, are dozens of streams, all well
stocked with trout, and several of them being also excellent for bass, especially at Petewawa, eleven miles from Pembroke, and also at Chalk River,
nine miles farther along the line. Inside of this limit several very good
trout streams are crossed by the track.
One of the best creeks in the district is Bissett's, crossed by the Canadian
Pacific line, and distant from Pembroke sixty miles. It is wide and open,
with safe bottom all the way across for wading ; and some of the handsome-
est trout ever hooked in this entire section of country have been killed on
this water. The fish are not phenomenally large, but as a general thing
they run very even in size, the average being from ten to twelve inches in
length.    Good sport can be enjoyed here.
Half an hour's run from Bissett's is Deux Rivieres, or Two Rivers
Station. There is plenty of game in this vicinity, especially on the east
side of the Ottawa River, including moose, red deer, and bear ; it is also
another good place for trout fishing.
Caughwana Lake, thirty miles from Deux Rivieres, is an excellent
spot for moose and bear, and trout weighing from two to three pounds
abound in its waters. By writing to Mr. S. Richardson, Western Hotel,
Deux Rivieres, some days in advance, teams, canoes, and guides can be
secured at reasonable rates. Near here is Algonquin Park, a great forest
and game reservation recently established by the Ontario Government.
But enough have been mentioned to give a good rough idea of the great
resources of this section of country in the matter of fishing. Pains have
been taken not to overdraw the picture, and the information relating to-
this subject has been collected on the spot, and by a practical fisherman who
fishes the northern country regularly.
To sum up, a trial of these waters can be strongly advised, as the
result will to a surety convince any angler that there is no other such country
for trout fishing. • There is no hardship in fishing there, and all charges
are moderate. Conveyances can be hired at the ordinary rates, and hotel
rates, etc., are the same as in small towns nearer home. Minnow bait
for bass can readily be obtained, either by purchase or caught by the
angler himself with a minnow seine or gang. A very good plan is to
have a sort of landing-net rigged up with common mosquito bar instead
of netting. This, sunk flat upon the ground in shallow water, with bait
suspended over it to attract the minnows, is a sure and easy means of
obtaining a sufficient quantity of bait. And bear in mind that trout fishing
in any of these waters may be pursued a la mode, with every opportunity for
the exercise of scientific skill. None of your worms, or bit-of-fat-pork
business, but fly fishing of the best ; with no more obstructions to impede
casting than are sufficient to call forth a display of that skill on which the
true angler prides himself.
A man or party can go to Pembroke equipped with their finest tackle,
and find every opportunity for using their treasures. They can go with the
best rods, choicest lines, deadliest flies, and favorite reels, and find abun- THE OTTAWA RIVER AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. 33
dant sport; and they will also find about half a dozen enthusiastic anglers
prepared to extend to them the right-hand of fellowship in the craft, and
see that visitors enjoy themselves ; for there is no need for jealousy of a
rival's performance on such richly stocked waters, or in such grand game
resorts. The number of expert rods quartered in that part of the country
might be counted on the fingers of one hand ; hence it will be readily seen
that there is no danger of trying an over-fished section. There are, no
doubt, a large number of experts with the rifle and plenty of men well
versed in woodcraft; but it must be remembered that a man must work for
his living in such places, and the majority of them have little time to spare
for shooting. Even if they did devote the whole legitimate season for killing big game, there would still be abundance for all comers. It should also
be remembered that those scourges of all good waters—the flies—moderate
ftheir attacks about the r5th of June, and are not noticed at all after the end
of July.
As a game country, as has been suggested, this territory, will not
be found inferior to any likely to be visited by the average sportsman.
Moose and caribou are or course comparatively rare, and are, with elk and
reindeer, as yet entirely protected by law in Ontario, the close season for
both not expiring until October, 1900. Black bear can be considered
plentiful, some years more and some years less. The common red deer,
so-called, can be found but a short distance from the line of the railway,
Deux Rivieres and neighboring stations being exceptionally promising
points ; but the best plan for a stranger is to secure a reliable guide, and
leave the selection of the ground to him. Duck shooting is frequently
very good on the larger lakes ; but the special merit of this part of the
country is the abundance of forest game. Those who visit it can depend
upon having plenty of chances at deer, within all likelihood a shot or two at
a bear, and ruffed grouse in abundance. THE VERY SPOT.
(34) THE    MATTAWA   RIVER,    ITS   HEADWATERS,   AND   THE
UPPER OTTAWA.
FOLLOWING the transcontinental line farther west beyond Pembroke
and the waters referred to, the next important station for sportsmen
is the town of Mattawa, situated at the junction of the Mattawa
River with the Ottawa.   On the farther side of the latter stream the Laurentian Mountains terminate in an immense bluff.
The town of Mattawa (a name borrowed from the Indians, and signifying
I The Forks") is one of the best points on that portion of the line to fit
out for an extended shooting or fishing excursion. The hotel accommoda-
pion there is very good and prices are low for board, or guides and boats.
It is a supply depot for a vast tract of rugged and wild country, where
extensive lumbering operations are carried on : and wherever you find lumbermen you can also depend upon finding a plentiful supply of their famous
B river boats," and the equally famous canoes. This holds good of Mattawa,
and well-informed guides can likewise be secured.
The upper country is noted for big game, moose being, for them, plenti-
f ful, and deer everywhere. Black bears are liable to show at any time : and,
I moving through the woods, you will flush ruffed grouse in numbers—singly,
F by twos and threes, and whole coveys of from nine to fifteen birds. Wing
f shooting, owing to the nature of the cover, is very difficult, and the best
I weapon for all-round work is a repeating rifle. With this, one can cut the
t heads off the birds as they sit, for when put up they almost invariably tree,
[ and are easily approached ; and, armed with a rifle, one is always prepared
for large game.
The writer once took a " No. 12 " breechloader and a Winchester into
these woods, and speedily found the former a veritable nuisance ; for it was
hard to carry and could rarely be used, except in the few scattered openings
and upon some of the lakes at ducks ; and even in the latter case the rifle
afforded just as much sport.
The trip up the Mattawa by canoe is as follows, it being understood that
there is plenty of game on either side of the river, and all about the lakes
to be mentioned as its headwaters. Going up stream, of course, necessitates
considerable work, and this route is described for those who want to be
most of their time in their canoe and enjoy a trip up and back. The easiest
way to do the Mattawa is to take the canoe by rail to Lac du Talon which is
crossed by the Canadian Pacific Railroad at Rutherglen station from which
one can workup and down the river. Your guide will lay out the route,
and decide upon where to pitch the tent if shooting is the primary object.
If you are especially bent upon fishing, or are too early for the shooting
season, you can secure guides at Mattawa, and start up stream prepared to
enjoy fine scenery and work with the rod that will not prove disappointing.
Leaving the town and paddling up the river, the scenic effect is like a
long panorama of pleasing views, changing at every turn ; and each stretch
of glancing water and towering rocky bank is apparently fairer than the last,
until, about a mile and a half from the starting-point, the first portage is
reached at  McCool's mills.    This  portage is about 100 yards long, and
(35) g6 FISHING AND  SHOOTING.
then comes the beautiful sheet of water called Champlain Lake, some five,
miles long and varying in width from a quarter to a half mile.
The shores of this lake are very pretty and well wooded, with numerous*
moss-covered rocky terraces, which afford excellent sites for a party to pitch   I
their canvas.    The fishing is of the best, there being plenty of fine lunge
and bass, and both take the troll readily : while in any of the countless
coves and bays the stickler for the rod can find scope for his ambition withl
bass weighing from one to five pounds.
Passing on up the lake, a roar of water is heard, and presently we reach
La Rose Rapids. The Amable du Fond River, which is the outlet of a
small chain of waters, among which are Crooked, Manitoulin, Smith's and
Tee Lakes, pours its rapid current into the Mattawa at the head of these
rapids. The river is well worth exploring, as in the lakes mentioned there
is capital fishing. To pass La Rose Rapids necessitates a portage of about
a quarter of a mile ; then the course is straight against a sharp current until \
some small rapids are reached at the foot of Birch Lake. These are but
trifling obstacles, and the next point is what is called "The Needle."
Here the detour is completed, andthe Mattawa is reached again. A goodly
sized brook comes tumbling down the steep slope from the mountains, and ?
the angler will do well to keep this stream in mind, for it drains several |
small mountain lakes heavily stocked with speckled trout of good size.
Passing on up the river, Nature assumes a grander aspect, the banksB
reaching upward higher and higher, until in many places they form walls of I
sheer rock from 100 to 200 feet high.     Parause  Rapids  and   the   Little
Parause demand another portage ; then straight paddling again to the Mills
Rush ; another short portage, and thence good paddling through Eel Lake j
for a couple of miles ; then another mile of the river proper, the sceneryj|
being, if anything, more pleasing than that already passed, and Talon Shoot
is reached.    A portage of nearly 300 yards is followed by about a mile of
fast water, after which the work at the paddles can be slackened, for the«
voyageur has reached Lac du  Talon, famed among the lumbermen for its'\
mighty lunge and bass.
This is one of a regular network of small lakes which form the head- \
waters of the Mattawa ; and verily this network is one that will entangle
the angler's heart, for in one and all of its channels are splendid fish. :
Countless unnamed small streams and rivulets contribute their currents to
feed these lakes, and speckled trout abound wherever the water is deep
enough to cover them.
If the Ottawa River, which is a succession of long reaches and lakes withl
intervening rapids, is followed north of Mattawa, it will be found to
traverse a wild region very similar in general appearance, and with game as
plentiful as mentioned in reference to the Mattawa, Each of the unnamed I
and practically unknown streams and lakes will be found to contain plenty
of trout, ranging in size from fingerlings up to great fish, according to the
volume of the water they inhabit. There is particularly good fishing in Antoine creek, about eight miles from Mattawa. A canoe trip in this direction
would prove very enjoyable at certain seasons of the year, but when the
logs are coming down in the midsummer and late fall some difficulty may be
experienced unless one is accompanied by capable voyageurs.
However, the first stage of the journey may be made by small boat or
rail from Mattawa up the Ottawa. The Lake Temiscamingue branch of the
Canadian Pacific Railway follows the left bank of the river from Mattawa- THE MATTAWA RIVER, ITS HEADWATERS, AND THE UPPER OTTAWA.     37
! to Gordon Creek at the foot of Lake Temiscamingue, where it branches off
: to Kippewa on Lake Kippewa.    By this route one reaches a country of
I moose, caribou, and bear, and every feeder of the Ottawa contains brook
1 trout.     The Jocko River which joins the Ottawa at Lumsden is a good
■ trout stream, and excellent sport can be obtained at Beauchene Lake and
: its outflow.   Lake Temiscamingue (Indian for " deep water "), an expansion
of the Ottawa some seventy-five miles long, containing big black bass, and
surrounded by forested levels of exceedingly rich land, occupied at present
■by lumbermen and game, but destined shortly, to attract numerous settlers,
can be traversed either by canoe or steamers, a fine line having recently
been established, which runs in connection with the trains.    At Haleyburg
and Priest's Bay and old Fort Temiscamingue, a Hudson's Bay Co's post,
the sportsman can find comfortable quarters from which expeditions can be
made.    On the west shore of Lake Temiscamingue caribou are to be found
i in herds. Beyond Lake Temiscamingue one can follow the Ottawa into the
Province of Quebec to Lac des Quince and Lake Mujizowaja ; thence to
Grand Victoria Lake and Lac des Rapides, and finally to the very source of
the mighty river, if he so pleases, where a not difficult portage will bring him
to either the headwaters of the Saguenay or those of the St. Maurice River;
part or all of which would be a glorious pilgrimage by canoe, and furnish
themes for many a tale of moose and bear and wolf, of struggles with hard-
fighting trout and bass, of nights in the primeval forest, of beds of sapin,
and a thousand and one other things that go to make the life of a woodland
wanderer delightful.    Hudson's Bay can be reached by either following up
the Montreal River and the tributaries of the Moose River to Moose Factory,  or by Blanche  River to Lake Abittibi and the river of the same
name.
Kippewa Lake can be reached comfortably by the L. T. Colonization
Railway, from Gordon Greek where a commodious hotel has been erected.
Bark canoes can be had at the terminus by applying to the Hudson's Bay
Co., Mattawa, as also excellent guides. In summer two steamers ply on
Lake Kippewa, and canoes are abundant. Hunting parties can go through
by inland lakes to Lac des Quince or De Grande Lac, one of the Hudson's
Bay Company's posts, by having guides. Portages are not very long or
rough.    Moose are plentiful and fish are numerous.
A lover of the canoe, who prefers to take his own craft with him, cannot
do better than visit the town of North Bay, situated on Lake Nipissing, and
distant from Mattawa forty-six miles, being also on the transcontinental
line of the Canadian Pacific Railway.
From North Bay he can, if so inclined, first explore a portion of the fine
Lake Nipissing, and then send his canoe by wagon to Trout Lake, some
four miles away, and now reached by an excellent road. This lake is the
largest of the headwaters of the Mattawa, being about twelve miles long.
From it the route by canoe is the same as was followed in bygone times by
the voyageurs of the Hudson's Bay Company, i. e., from Trout Lake to
Turtle Lake ; thence a trifling portage enables you to reach Pine Lake,
from which a portage of a quarter of a mile completes the journey to Lac du
Talon, already referred to, whence the trip on the Mattawa can be reversed
until the Ottawa is reached ; and once that stream is gained, the voyageur
can decide for himself where the trip shall end, for he is upon that
magnificent highway of waters that ends with the mighty St. Lawrence.  LAKE NIPISSING AND TROUT LAKE.
THE next stopping-place will be on the shores of Lake Nipissing, at the
bustling little town of North Bay. The lake is a magnificent sheet
of water, some thirty miles wide and eighty long, offering every
facility for sailing, bathing, or fishing. There is plenty of hotel room, from
$i per day upwards, and the town is built right upon the beach, the several
hotels being about 200 yards from the water.
Below the village a long pier runs out 150 yards or more, for the accommodation of the steamers ; and, early in the spring from this point of vantage big catches of pike, bass, and pickerel are made daily. The method
used is " whipping" with a rod and spoon or with a fish's eye for bait ; but
there are plenty of minnows to be taken with proper tackle ; and with live
bait, or any of the good imitations, great catches could be made without
going farther than the end of the wharf. The writer has taken seven good
fish, three of them being very large pickerel and one a two-pound bass (with
common tackle borrowed from the hotel proprietor), inside of a few minutes, by merely walking slowly along the pier and keeping the bait about four
feet below the surface. The lot was taken ere the outer end of the pier
was turned, or, in other words, before he had walked 100 yards ; and numbers of large fish could be seen down in the cool depths, apparently merely
waiting an invitation to take hold. There are good boats, including two
steam yachts and sail boats, available ; and by taking a skiff and rowing
away towards the Indian reservation, a pleasant trip and a good catch are
assured. The list of fish includes bass,-pike, pickerel, and lunge, and
heavy ones of each variety will probably be taken during an afternoon's
trolling. But a visitor must remember that sport is sometimes uncertain
upon all large lakes, and he should not despair if he fails to land a big string
at the first attempt. This will also apply to Trout Lake or to any other
water of equal size. But the chances, especially on Nipissing, amount to
almost a certainty in favor of success, and, unless the water is too rough, he
will return with a fine lot of big ones.
As a shooting ground the Nipissing country ranks very high. There are
any number of deer and ruffed grouse all around the lake, quite a few
moose, caribou, and bear, and upon what is known as the " long arm" of
Nipissing rattling good duck shooting can be had in the fall. The district
about Callender, and the very best portions of the Muskoka deer country,
are close at hand, and those of Parry Sound lie between this lake and the
Georgian Bay, and they are among the best known.
One of the best points on the Nipissing, and reached direct by the
Canadian Pacific Railway, is the country around Sturgeon River, distant
from North Bay twenty-three miles, and hunting parties during several years
past have returned home laden with the spoils of the chase.
Some four miles inland from Nipissing is the beautiful Trout Lake, of
which so much has been written during the past few years. To a camping
party this lake offers attractions of the highest order, and there are two or
three houses upon the shore where a few visitors can be comfortably provided for, and where a steam launch and half a dozen excellent skiffs are
(39) .0 FISHING AND  SHOOTING.
kept for hire. Trout Lake is a picture that once seen will never be forgotten. Numerous islands of all sizes, from half an acre to nearly a hundred,
make portions of it appear like so many separate channels, and form a combination of loveliness that is not surpassed by any lake in Canada. Surrounding this water is a rugged, rocky, lonely wild, with great hills and deep
ravines, alike densely clad with towering evergreens, and through their
shadowed aisles runs many a good trout stream.
Flies do not trouble the fisherman so long as he stays upon the lake,
but in the woods along the trout streams they and the mosquitoes are pretty
bad until the last week in July,, when the flies disappear and the mosquitoes
cease to be troublesome. Fishing in the lake is a thing to be remembered.
Deep in its icy depths (for Trout Lake is deeper than a prime minister) are
great big salmon trout, and for these an extra weight must be put on the troll.
But one need not go "three thousand leagues under the sea " to have
sport, for, with ordinary tackle, bass and pickerel of good size can readily
be taken, and now and again a monster lunge will test the angler's quality.
One of thirty-five pounds weight was hooked by a lady, and successfully
landed after a hard fight.
If a man puts in a week at Trout Lake, and .comes away dissatisfied
with either the fishing or the scenery of that richly endowed spot, he is
indeed a hard customer to please. This water has been visited by comparatively few, and the majority of them Americans ; but those who have once
enjoyed the privilege return again year after year, for it is one of those
places which never wear out.
A guide and boat can be secured on the spot, and, starting from the head
of the lake, the visitor is pulled away down for a couple of miles ere it is
time to cast out the trolls.
Each fisherman should have a couple of lines, for this reason : Some few
yards from the rocky, evergreen-clad shore a sort of shelf of rocks runs out
ten or twelve feet below the surface. It can be distinctly seen, and the
object is to keep the boat as near as possible above its outside limit. Looking down through the clear water, you can trace the extreme edge of this
ledge, and immediately outside of it is a black abyss of great depth. The
two lines are worked in this way : one should be as long as possible, and
have enough sinker above the troll to keep it at the depth of this shelf of
rock, the other and shorter line requiring nothing but the ordinary spoon
hook.
Following this method, some heavy fish should be taken, the short line
keeping the angler thoroughly well occupied playing bass and pickerel, with
a very good chance of hooking a big lunge now and again.
Passing on down the lake, the scenery is extremely beautiful, and one
realizes how thoroughly attractive is this wilderness pure and simple.
Presently a round opening in the wall of evergreens is noticed, and a closer
inspection reveals Short Portage, a few yards long, which leads into Four-
Mile Bay. We take a peep through, and note how pretty the surroundings
are ; then go down the lake toward Big Camp Island, seven miles from the
starting point, passing several very pretty little islands on the way. Many
Americans and Canadians have pitched their canvas upon the big island,
and all unite in praise of the resort. A climb upon some of the greatrocks,
where the moss forms a resting-place fit for a king, gives pleasant relief from
the confinement of the skiff, and one can lie in dreamy comfort, and really
find that peaceful rest which is such a delusion upon many holiday trips. LAKE NIPISSING AND TROUT LAKE. 41
Fairer spot could not be chosen for a week or so in camp, and in a short
time the attractions of this neighborhood will be better understood.
Turtle Lake is connected with this water, and the fishing there is something to be remembered ; while in its outlet, Lost River, the bass fishing is
unsurpassed. Many big catches made on the last mentioned are on record,
some of the bass running over three pounds, and quite willing to be caught
at the rate of fifteen an hour.
A peculiarity of Trout Lake is a wonderful echo, which is best tested
from a point on the water about two miles above Big Camp Island, especially on a calm evening. Under such conditions the slightest sound is
repeated with startling distinctness many times over, and testing the mocking voice of the distant hills is a favorite amusement with those enjoying a
paddle by moonlight upon this lovely water. A sharp cry or loud whistle
gs answered at once from the lofty hills on either side with marvellous precision ; then there will be a few seconds of silence, and a musical re-echo
comes floating back, to be repeated again and again from hill after hill, and
point after point, softer and sweeter as it slowly dies away, until it is finally
lost in a whisper, faint and far, from the great forested height that marks
the head of the lake.
Shooting in the immediate neighborhood is always good. Bears frequently appear upon the shores ; to see deer swimming from the mainland
to one or other of the islands is a common occurrence ; caribou are often
met with, and moose have always harbored about the beaver meadows and
in a densely wooded stretch of lowland near the foot of the lake. A couple
of Toronto gentlemen caught a very young moose there season before last,
and released it again after it had been admired by the rest of the party.
The writer himself saw a grand bull moose one summer's day, when exploring the shore in a canoe, and he has killed large bags of grouse and many
ducks there in the fall, and also his share of the deer abounding in these
famous woods. Many articles praising this locality in the highest terms
have appeared in the Canadian and American fishing and sporting journals,
'and the tourist can go there satisfied that wonderfully attractive scenery and
plenty of sport will make the trip a memorable one.
The trip from Sturgeon Falls to Lake Temagaming—fifty miles away—
lias been made quite frequently during the past few years by parties of
sportsmen who have all spoken of it as a most enjoyable expedition. There
are four short portages, over falls, each one about 150 yards, and two rapids
each about one mile long, up which the canoe can be towed (without portaging supplies) with ropes. Black bass and grey trout are abundant in the
lake, and pickerel and pike can be caught at any point en route. During
the season, red deer, partridge, and duck can be had on the trip in fair
quantities. The Peterboro canoe is the most suitable, but a bark canoe
would do, and is more readily secured at Sturgeon Falls. All necessary
supplies can be procured at that place, but if one has tents and Peterboros of
his own it would be advisable to take them along. Reliable guides can be
secured at Sturgeon Falls at from $2 to $3 per day.
Those wanting information as to the different localities for fishing and
hunting should apply to S. A. Huntington, Fishery Overseer and Game
Warden at North Bay, who will furnish it gratis. ""^Ss^'-1^*' VrtKiGrand Cape FROM STURGEON FALLS TO FORT WILLIAM AND LAKE OF
THE WOODS, INCLUDING THE FAMOUS NEPIGON AND
STEEL RIVERS, ETC.
IN following the transcontinental line from the portion just described to
Fort William, the route traverses a good game region, rough and wild
in the extreme, and crosses some of the very finest trout streams on the
continent, including the world-renowned Nepigon River and Lake, the
dream alike of anglers who have and have not wet a line in its rushing
flood, or had their best efforts taxed by the jewelled leviathans that abound
in that incomparable water. Many of the rivers aud brooks in this section,
or the numerous lakes, great and small, which are seen from the car windows, have never been fished, but such as have been tried have richly
rewarded the experiment. Near the town of Sudbury some fair lake fishing
is obtainable, and the adjacent country is a good one for black bear and
grouse. In traversing the north shore of Lake Superior you will cross,
among others, the Wahnapitaeping River, flowing from Lake Metagama
into Georgian Bay ; the Onaping River, draining the lake of that name;
Spanish River; Mississaga, the outlet of Winibegon and Ground Hog
Lakes; the Apishkaugama, Michipocoton and the Steel Rivers, trout
streams of rare merit. The Magpie, White and the Little Pic Rivers also
abound in trout of good size, White River being perhaps as good as any of
the extensive list. Steel River offers some of the choicest trout fishing
available outside of Nepigon. It has several small falls and rapids and deep
pools, and, in fact, it is just the stream an angler loves, and wonderful
catches can be made either by following it upward or near its mouth, using
either flies, worms, minnow, or artificial lures. Other trout-haunted tributaries of this north shore are the Mink, Black, Maggot, Gravel, Cypress,
Prairie, Jack Pine, Fire Hill, Trout Creek, Wolf, McKenzie, and Current
Rivers, and there are several others within easy reach of the railway. In
all of these trout are numerous, and the great majority of them can be readily
waded. Of course in fishing such waters one must be prepared to live
under canvas or put up with poor accommodation ; but that only adds to
the enjoyment of a holiday in this lone, romantic land, and more attractive
surroundings or better fishing than will surely be found there no man can
desire.
During the fall of 1890 the Railway Company, desirous of doing all in
its power to further the interests of sportsmen, decided to render several of
the good but almost unfished rivers of this district more accessible, and also
to decrease the difficulty of fishing that exceptionally good water, the Steel.
What was most urgently required was a system of trails leading direct to the
fishing, for the woods and cover about many of the best reaches of fast water
were almost impassable to any but experienced woodsmen. Trails were
accordingly made upon the following : the Steel River, Prairie River,
Black River, Gravel River, and Jack Pine River, and it must be remembered that these are the choice of the whole extensive list. A few remarks
conveying hints for general guidance to each will be useful.
Michipocoton. To fish this river you get off at Missanabie station
and cross Dog Lake in a steam-launch, distance about ten miles, to Stony
(43) 44 FISHING AND  SHOOTING.
Portage, where the fishing starts. Good fishing is to be had from this point
to where the river empties into Lake Superior, a distance of about forty
miles. The fish are large (up to five and a half pounds) and game, the
water rapid, and lots of room to cast a fly. The stream has been very little
fished. It probably is very little inferior, if at all, to the Nepigon. By
writing to the Hudson Bay officer at Missanabie, guides and canoes can be
secured without any difficulty.
From Missanabie the tourist can make the journey to James Bay—the
southern portion of Hudson Bay. This is accomplished by canoe. The
river can not be surpassed for scenery. Good fishing and shooting can be
had. The journey occupies from eight to ten days from Missanabie to
Moose Factory, the Hudson's Bay Company fort and headquarters of the
Company in this part of the country. The return which is against the
stream will take fifteen to eighteen days and can be made either by the same
route or by the Abittibi River to the upper Onawa and Lake Temiscamingue
country reaching the railway again at Mattawa.
White River. Fairly good fishing is to be had in this stream. The-
railway follows the river from White River station to Montizambert. The
fish are not very large, averaging from one to three and a half pounds in
weight. In the proper season, i. e., from August ist to September 15th,
the fish are plentiful. The advantage of this stream is that it can be fished
without guides, as at no point is it more than a quarter of a mile from the
railway between the above .mentioned points.
Peninsula. Station close to the shore of Lake Superior. Good trout
fishing can be had along the shore of the lake between this point and Port
Coldwell station; also in Port Munro stream, four miles west of
Peninsula, and in the Mink River, about eight miles west of Peninsula.
Canoes cannot be used in either of these streams. Plenty of fish to be had,
and of a large size. There is a hotel at Peninsula, where the traveller can
get a good clean bed, provided he does nbt wish to camp out.
Middleton. First-rate fishing to be had in Lake Superior, along the
rocks, at this point. It is also the station to get off at for any one desiring
the Little Pic River, situated two miles east. Good fishing is to be had
in this stream. Indians are always camped at the mouth of it, and they
can be engaged at any time to take the fisherman up the river. The only
drawback to the river is that, for four or five days after rain, the water is so
discolored that the fish cannot see a fly, which makes the fishing very uncertain ; however, the fisherman can always depend upon having good
sport in Lake Superior.
Prairie River. Situated two miles east of Steel Lake siding. The
company have had a trail cut out along this river, which starts about 500
feet west of where the river is crossed by the railway, and runs in a northerly direction for about four miles, where it strikes the river at the head
of the rapid water. Fishermen from this point can wade down the rapids,
where good fishing is to be had all along. The trail is cut quite close to
the river, and can be easily reached from any point. Good fishing can be
had in this water after the middle of June ; but is particularly good from
August ist to September 15th, fish running in weight from one-half to three
pounds.
Steel River. To fish this river the sportsman should get off at Jack
Fish station.. A trail, starting about a quarter of a mile east of Jack Fish,
has been cut through to Clearwater Lake, a distance of about two and a —
STURGEON FALLS TO  PORT ARTHUR. 45
half miles, and the portage between Clearwater and Mountain Lake (the
headwaters of Steel River), a mile in length, has been brushed out and put
in good order. A trail has been cut on the west side of the river from
Mountain Lake to the foot of Big Bluff at Telford's Pool, at which point
the river can be waded at low water. On the east side a trail has been cut
from Mountain Lake to the foot of rapid water. A trail has also been cut
from the iron railway bridge to the basin and head of the rapids at the
mouth of the river. A canoe can now be taken in by way of Clearwater
' Lake and down the river to Jack Fish station without difficulty. The
portages, though long, are good. The fishing'in this river is good from-the
time the ice leaves until the middle of June, except immediately after heavy
rains, when the water is too much discolored for a day or two. From the
middle of June until the ist of August good sport is to be had, though
somewhat uncertain. From August 1st to September 15th the fishing cannot be surpassed anywhere, the fish ranging in weight from two to six
pounds. I have known of forty fish taken in a morning and evening's fishing, with two rods, to weigh, dressed, 123 pounds.
If the fisherman intends visiting the headwaters of this river he should
have guides with him ; but capital sport can be had from the mouth of the
river to the basin. If this part of the river is fished, no guide will be required, and just as good sport can be had as in the upper stretches.
Black River, situated half a mile west of Black River siding. The
company has had a trail cut, starting from the west side of the bridge over
the river, and running north for about four miles, to the head of the rapids.
From this point fishermen can wade down the river, where good sport is to
be had. The fish are plentiful, though not large ; anything over two and a
half pounds in weight is rarely caught. It would well repay anybody to
visit this point, if only to see the falls, which are situated about a mile south
of the bridge. A good trail leading to the fall starts from the line of railway about a mile west of Black River siding.
Gravel River. To fish this river the sportsman should get off at
Gravel River station. A trail has been cut from the station to the foot of
the big falls on Gravel River, a distance of two miles, then down the river
along the rapid water for about two and a half miles, then back to the
station. These trails form a triangle. The fishing in this river is good,
particularly early in the season and in the fall, though somewhat uncertain.
Fish range in weight from one and a half to four pounds. Good fishing is
also to be had from the rocks along the lake shore. This is a most desirable
point for parties who wish to enjoy good fishing without the expense of
guides. There is a good camping ground near the station, within easy
reach of both the lake and the river fishing. The scenery here is also particularly fine.
Jack Pine River, one-fourth of a mile east of Mazokama station. A
trail, starting from Mazokama station, has been cut north along this river
for four miles, to the head of the rapid water. Large fish are taken in this
river from the time the ice leaves until the middle of June, except during
very high water. From the middle of June until August 15th large numbers of fish can be taken, though somewhat small in size ; the fisherman
can always look for three or four large fish, and not be disappointed, during
a day on the river. From the 15th of August until the 15th of September'
the fish are plentiful and large, averaging in weight from one and a half to
five pounds. 46 FISHING  AND   SHOOTING.
Pearl River Station. Between Pearl River station and Loon Lake
siding are a number of lakes, among them, Loon Lake, Bass Lake, and
Silver Lake, all*within easy reach from the railway, where capital black
bass and trout fishing is to be had.
The Nepigon. Most famous of all the streams of the north shore,
however, is the beautiful Nepigon, and nobody going that far should fail to
make the trip by canoe'from its mouth to the parent lake above. It is now
so well known that a minute description is entirely unnecessary. Enough
has already been written about its scenery and sport of fishing to fill several
volumes.
The Nepigon is some thirty-one miles long, and connects Lake Nepigon
with Superior, its waters emptying into Nepigon Bay. On a fishing day—
for even Nepigon has its " off days," and occasionally gets the sulks—you
will take veritable giants ; great trout of beauty and weight, that even the
rankest enthusiast ne'er dreams of till he has tried this stream. Two-
pounders, three-pounders, four, five—yea ! and, by the unlying scales,
eight-pounders are there ready to spring upon the deadly fly and fight to the
last gasp against your practised hand. The station for it is Nepigon, where
will be found a comfortable and well-managed little hotel, the Taylor
House, with accommodation for a limited number.
On some days'the fishing is fairly good from the railway bridge down to
the mouth, particularly in the rapids ; but to fish this river properly you
must camp, and fortunately there is no difficulty about obtaining guides
(Indians) and canoes at Red Rock, Nepigon, Ont., a Hudson's Bay Company's post. All necessaries for ordinary camping parties can also be obtained there. The rates for two Indians and a canoe are from $2 to $4
per day. Intending visitors must bear in mind that a trip up the river
means living under canvas, and govern themselves accordingly. Necessities
can be obtained on the spot ; luxuries must be brought from the towns.
There are many beautiful sites for a camp all along the river, and to say that
it is a veritable anglers' paradise is quite within the mark. Trout scaling
from two to five pounds can be readily taken on any of the best pools, and
whitefish are plentiful and afford fine sport, rising eagerly at " gnat flies."
Their mouths are as tender as wet paper, and a light hand must have hold
of the rod to land them ; but a two or three-pound whitefish is not to be
despised, as he will fight bravely on the hook, and is wondrous toothsome
on the platter.
The standard flies for Nepigon and adjacent waters are the " professor,"
"queen," "grizzly king," "Montreal," " Seth Green," " fairy," " shoemaker," "coachman," "silver doctor," "gray drake," "green drake,"
yellow, brown, black, and grizzled " hackles," and "gnats " for the special
benefit of the silvery whitefish. In addition to such of these as you may
pin faith to, and others of your own particular fancy, it will be as well to
take some artificial minnows and a few of the good rubber baits along ; for
they come in very handy when the fish refuse a fly, and are apt to tempt big
fellows. Your fly-fisher may sneer at this, but let him sneer, and take the
baits just the same. A fig for what the fish rises to ! So long as you play
him fairly and well after he is once hooked, the sport is just the same ; and,
moreover, if the true inwardness of the capture of some of the "monsters"
was known, it might be that they fell to a ^grasshopper or even a degraded
" chunk of pork," while the fly-book was never opened.
The Nepigon falls 313 feet in its course of thirty-one miles, and varies !	
STURGEON  FALLS  TO  PORT ARTHUR. 47
greatly in width, narrowing to about 150 yards one mile from its mouth, but
broadening at other points into a noble stream. Four lakes mark its course,
the first being Lake Helen, only a mile from Red Rock, the Canadian Pacific
crossing at its outlet. The current at this outlet is very fast. Lake Helen
extends due north, and is some eight miles long by one wide. The river
proper leaves this lake on the west side, and for six miles above it is broad
and deep, with a moderate current, till the bend at Camp Alexandria is
reached. A quarter of a mile above are the Long Rapids, continuing for a
couple of miles. These are avoided on the upward journey by paddling up
a brook on the west side for three-quarters of a mile, and from thence
portaging to the second lake, Lake Jessie, reached by a portage of a mile
and a half. Lake Jessie is three miles long and dotted with numerous
small islands, and is separated from Lake Maria by the tumbling narrows.
The latter lake is two and a half miles long. | From this lake to Cedar Portage, or Split Rock, the distance is a couple of miles, the portage being 250
yards long. A mile and a quarter above is another portage over an island
in the centre of the stream, called Island Portage, which is about fifty yards
long ; and three miles above it is One Mile Portage. At a trifle over a mile
above the head of this portage the stream rushes down in a foamy chute ;
and immediately above is Lake Emma, nearly four miles long. A narrow
;.arm of the river extends beyond the White Chute, which the canoer will
follow for about a mile, and then portage 230 yards to Lake Emma. The
distance between this lake and Lake Nepigon is only six miles; but the
river is broken by four rapids not to be essayed by canoe. In order to
avoid this, canoes turn aside at the northwest angle of Lake Emma, and
follow a small stream, flowing from Lake Hannah, for a quarter of a mile,
and thence onward for four miles to the head of Lake Hannah, where Flat
Rock Portage, one mile long, extends to the shore of Lake Nepigon.
This grand sheet of water measures some seventy miles in length by about
fifty wide. It is studded with a vast number of beautiful islands, and its
coastline is so broken and indented with coves and bays that it measures
good 580 miles. To give an idea of the attractions of this lake, it may be
mentioned that the islands, great and small, number nearly, if not quite,
1000, varying in size from eight miles in breadth down to mere rocky picturesque fragments. Uncounted streams, several of them navigable by
canoes for a considerable distance, empty into the great reservoir, and make
this lake a most attractive water for explorations. The principal feeder is
the Kayosh or Gull River, at the southwest curve of the lake, at the mouth
of which is situated "Poplar Lodge," a Hudson Bay post. From the
above brief summary some idea maybe gleaned of the resources of Nepigon.
No essential part of the outfit should be omitted, for once started from
Nepigon station you are in the wilderness indeed ; and take your veiling
material and favorite " fly medicine " along for you will need them. There
are "no flies on Nepigon " as a trout river, in the accepted meaning of that
vulgarism ; but, like every other good water on the American continent, it
has its winged pests ; and, while the sport is such as to make you hold lightly
their attacks, comfort is not to be overlooked. The Nepigon can be reached
either by the Canadian Pacific Railway direct to Nepigon Station, or by
one of the Canadian Pacific Railway's splendid lake steamers to Fort
William, the tourist having the privilege of going by rail and returning by
steamer, or vice versa.
A point to be remembered is that very large trout (genuine brook trout, 48 FISHING AND   SHOOTING.
salmo fontinalis) may be caught from the rocks along the lake shore at
almost any point between Port Coldwell station and Mink Harbor, a reach
of coast line of many miles. Residents on Jack Fish Bay take all the trout
they want by merely casting from the shore rocks with the rudest description
of tackle; and there is good sport in hooking and playing a five, six, or
seven-pounder in the ice-cold flood of " Big-sea-water," the Gitche Gumee
of the red man, upon whose mighty breast Hiawatha fought with the leviathans who lurk below, as told in Longfellow's poetical story.
In the territory lying between the Nepigon and Fort William are a num-,.
ber of excellent waters, both for trout and bass. In two of them, Loon and
Silver Lakes, black bass of great size are easily taken, as they rise freely to
the fly, and the unusual sight of a speckled trout and a black bass hooked
on the same cast has been witnessed at Loon Lake. This lake is the
source of the Pearl River, and is well worth a visit, as is also Silver Lake,
distant from it only three miles, and equally well stocked with the two fish
mentioned. There are a number of trout streams in the neighborhood of '-.
Port Arthur and Fort William. The same choice of rail or steamer is of
course offered, going or returning, as mentioned in connection with Nepigon,
as Port Arthur and its sister town, Fort William, are the terminal points of
one of the Canadian Pacific Railway's lake steamer routes.
As shooting grounds, these broad tracts of forests, lakes, and rocky
barrens between Sudbury and Fort William are worth attention. Black bear,
moose, caribou, and ruffed grouse are generally distributed ; the best points
being upon the north shore of Superior proper ; Jack Fish being perhaps,
as good a centre of operations as any. But, as every sportsman knows, this
implies knowledge of woodcraft and more or less work.
Westward from Fort William a wild broken country extends to the"!
boundary line that divides the Province of Ontario from that of Manitoba.
Like the region just referred to, it has many lakes and streams ; but the
first worthy of special notice is Wabigoon Lake, lying half-way between I
Fort William and Winnipeg. This Wabigoon (Indian for lily) Lake is a
pretty sheet of water extending west and south about twenty miles in each
direction by about three or four long, with rough, rocky shores in places, and
a few small islands. Lake trout, white fish, pike, and pickerel abound in I
them, and may be caught with trolls. Beyond the Wabigoon Lakes are the
upper and lower Manitou Lakes, fine stretches of water giving forty miles
of steamboat navigation. Salmon and lake trout, white fish, and pickerel,
abound in them. A small stream connects the upper and lower Manitou Lakes with Rainy Lake, offering a new route to the Rainy River
system of waters, which mark the international boundary between the
province of Ontario and the State of Minnesota. One can leave the
train at Wabigoon station, and descend the outlet of Wabigoon Lake
to Rainy Lake, and from there paddle either to Lake-of-the-Woods via
Rainy River, or follow the international boundary eastward by way of
Pigeon River to Lake Superior, reached at Grand Portage. Small steamers are placed on the route between Wabigoon and Rainy Lake this year
—this being the Manitou district, which promises great development
of its mineral resources, and accommodation is being provided en route
which will be capital centres-from which to work either for game, fish, or
gold.
Travelling westward from Wabigoon, Eagle River and Vermilion Lake
are reached after a short run, and from here again the Rainy River and Lake-of-the-Woods may be reached by canoe, the route being by Eagle
Lake, Vermilion Lake, and Huckleberry Lake and connecting streams.
Very large lake trout can be taken in all of them, and maskinonge are
numerous in the rivers linking them together. The next important lake is
the magnificent Lake-of-the-Woods, one of the most beautiful waters in all
Canada. It is so irregular in shape, and has so many islands and bays, that
but a portion of it can be seen from any one point of view. As will be
readily understood, experienced guides are necessary, if an attempt is made
to explore this maze of waters, but they can be easily secured. Lake-of-
the-Woods sprawls like a huge silver spider amid romantic surroundings of
the most pleasing description ; and from it extend natural water highways
for hundreds of miles east and west and north. Near its outlet at Winnipeg River is the progressive town of Rat Portage, now a great mining
centre, from-which steamers ply regularly to Fort Frances on Rainy River,
from which other steamers run on Rainy Lake and the Seine River, where
there are big and little game and capital fishing. Supplies can be procured
at Fort Frances and Mine Centre, the latter being a new town which has
sprung into existence as a result of the rapid development of the gold areas
in the vicinity during 1896. A point worth noting by those fond of duck
shooting is the English River, a tributary of the Winnipeg River, and distant about sixty miles north of Rat Portage. Very few men have shot here,
but three guns killed 1247 duck in thirteen days' shooting oil the English
River, and the owners of the guns travelled all the way from Toronto to
do it. One of these sportsmen has shot at many of the best points in
Manitoba and the Northwest, and made heavy'bags, but he declares that
the English River grounds are the best he ever tried.
To attempt to describe such a route in a book of this nature is impossible. A glance at a map of Canada will reveal the extent of the great
chain of waters referred to, and the sportsman can select from a hundred or
so long or short canoe trips the one that best suits his convenience. Upon
Ithese countless streams and lakes you can spend a delightful holiday, covering a few days, weeks, or an entire season if you will, tracing out the old-
time routes of the voyageurs famous in the history of the fur trade; for
[millions of dollars'-worth of furs and peltries have been brought down these
glancing highways, and hundreds of feet have trodden the portages you will
ifind by the way. You can paddle to Fort Alexander, tracing the course of
ithe Winnipeg River to Lake Winnipeg, and thence south to the mouth of
Ithe Red River, and so to the " Prairie City" ; or, if you want more scope
and prefer the far North, you can traverse the length of Lake Winnipeg to
1 Mossy Point, and from there follow the Nelson River to Hudson Bay and
Port Nelson and York F'actory ; or you leave Lake Winnipeg by the boat
route proper to York Factory, and follow the paths of the fur traders.
'From York Factory you can coast along Hudson Bay to Fort Churchill, and
Jfrom there return to Lake Winnipeg via the Churchill River and another
'chain of lakes. SAULT STE. MARIE,  MICHIGAN, AND WISCONSIN.
BY the opening of the " Soo Line " of the Canadian Pacific Railway and
the establishment of a direct route from Sudbury, on the transcontinental line, to the sister cities of St. Paul and Minneapolis in Minnesota, yet more entirely new territory is rendered easily accessible, and the
disciple of Izaak Walton or Nimrod may with advantage devote consider
able time to that tract of country between Sudbury and Sault Ste. Marie.
The Soo Branch forms part of that very important section of the Canadian
(5o) SAULT  STE.   MARIE,   MICHIGAN,  AND  WISCONSIN 51
Pacific Railway which connects Boston with St. Paul and Minneapolis via
Montreal. And one of the attractions to the fisherman is the good company he is sure to find on the sleeper whenever he has occasion to use the
railway.
Leaving Sudbury, you find the same varied and picturesque blendings of
many colored rocks and rough forests, marked here and there with silvery
streams and lakes, the loveliness of the surroundings gradually improving
until opposite Desbarats station a glimpse of Lake Huron and a portion of
a cluster of 100 beautiful islets which themselves form a part of the countless
islands of the north shore of Lake Huron is obtained. These islands are
destined to become more popular than the Thousand Islands of the St.
Lawrence, because of their cooler climate and greater variety and boldness
of scenery. A pretty island can be bought from the Ontario Government
for about $5, and a picturesque cottage built upon it for $350.00 and upwards. The Canadian Pacific Railway and four lines of steamers bring
tourists' supplies, etc., to any of these islands. They are now quite accessible. They are only one hour by rail from the " Soosans," as the two towns
of Sault Ste. Marie are locally called. Desbarats has a very clean and comfortable country hotel. North of Desbarats station three miles through the
woods is Diamond Lake, an almost virgin trout lake, and about it are many
lakes which, from the nature of the
country would remain well stocked
with fish. The shooting is also
good. These lakes, secluded and yet
accessible, would be admirable places
for an annual camp. The surrounding lands could be bought cheaply
from the Ontario Government and the
fishing protected. The scenery is
grander than any this side of the
Nepigon River.
The Sault Ste.  Marie, the great
gateway between Lakes Superior and
Huron, has for years been a favorite resort with a large number of pleasure
seekers.
There is splendid accommodation for visitors, the hotels being conducted and equipped in first-class style, and the many beautiful and interesting features of the spot are a guarantee against one wearying of it. Nor
is there any lack of sport. Several fine trout waters are close at hand ; and
the St. Mary's River, especially on the Canadian side among the islands,
affords as good fishing as man can desire ; and game, large and small, is
fairly plentiful in the woods.
An exciting amusement is running the wild rapids in a canoe manned by
Indians, it being an experience that the visitor will neither regret nor forget. At the foot of these fierce rapids is where the Indians spear the white-
fish, and it is rare sport indeed for a novice to try his hand at this method
of poor " Lo." He may not make much of a success of it, but he will have
a heap of fun, and enjoy what we are all after—novelty. The immense
government works, the water-power system and canals, and old Fort
Brady, an American military post constructed in 1823, are among the
special attractions that nc-er fail to interest all comers. And now a word
to those who think that the voice of the sirens of old is yet heard amid the 52 FISHING  AND   SHOOTING.
murmur of waters, and that never a bird, nor the sweetest singer that ever
faced the footlights, had a voice to thrill like the whir of the reel. In the
several channels and amid the shadowed waters, where the rocks overhang
the depths surrounding Grand Manitoulin and sister islands, and in the
north channel between those isles and the mainland, lurks many a huge
black bass, fit for a master-hand to play to his doom, and worth a king's
ransom to land safely after the glorious tournament is fairly won. They
are there, any number of them, grand, firm, game fellows, fierce and strong,
in those ice-cold depths ; and peradventure if you run down to Desbarats
and test their mettle, you will never regret the experiment. Of the shooting to be had in the forests of Michigan and that portion of the State of
Wisconsin traversed by this route, little need be said. An experienced
sportsman, speaking of the Michigan woods, says, " deer roamed, not singly,
but in herds, and where a bag of fifteen to twenty-five ruffed grouse was
not considered anything extraordinary for a good cover shot." He had had
but one season's trial of the broken prairie lands, rolling hills, and bushy
ravines of Wisconsin, but deer were plentiful, bear ditto; and stopping
swift grouse and quail in the covers, and the loud-winged "chickens" in
the open, proved to be, " for people who like that sort of thing, just about
the sort of thing they like."
THE  REASON WHY.
'* Will you tell me, youthful angler,"
To an urchin did I say,
As together we sat fishing,
One fine morn upon the quay,
u Why the fish to you are partial,
And around-my hook they play ?
I have not had e'en a nibble
Since the breaking of the day."
This urchin's face was homely,
And his clothes were torn and thin 5
And attached to his '* galluses "
Were his trousers by a pin.
For a rod he had a sapling,
I a jointed pole had hired ;
Yet he sat and hauled the fish in
With a skill that made me " tired."
Scattered round him were his trophies,
Like the rocks along the shore,
He a hundred fish had taken ;
I—a cold, and nothing more.
But this urchin made no answer;
He did only sit and grin,
Till at length I cried in anger :
I Tell me!   Tell, thou child of sin,
" Or I '11 feed you to the fishes !
And your bones shall sink from sight
As the sun sinks in the evening."
" Hold ! " he cried, " I have a bite."
Then this urchin, smiling, answered,
While another fish he took:
" Don't you get excited, mister,
You forgot to bait your hook." THE CANADIAN NORTHWEST, THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, AND
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
WHAT are undoubtedly the finest shooting grounds to be found in
America at the present day are inclosed within  the boundaries of
the Canadian Northwest.    Few territories offer such a variety of
game or equal the abundance of it, nor such splendid facilities for reaching
the haunts of the different species.
It is impossible to cover all the good shooting points in the vast expanse
of prairies and brush-lands lying between the eastern boundary of the
Province of Manitoba and the summit of the Rocky Mountains, which mark
the eastern confines of the Province of British Columbia. Roughly speaking, the prairie country is about 1000 miles wide, while other vast tracts
extend far to the northward of the Canadian Pacific Railway, offering great
inducements for special explorations by those who can devote sufficient
time to the work. But the present intention is to treat merely of such
points as can be reached readily from the railway, and direct the sportsman
to places where he can enjoy his sport in comfort.
The prairies and woodlands of Manitoba and Assiniboia are rich and
extensive shooting grounds.
Those who prefer feathers to
hair can find shooting of a
varied character, can count
on well-filled bags, and what
is perhaps, after all, its best
feature, from the nature of
the country they can work
their well-trained setters or
pointers to the greatest advantages and see the animals
at their best, — always a
more enjoyable matter to
the true sportsman than the
mere killing of game.
But   the   reader  unacquainted with the country or
the habits of Canadian game may ask :   Wherein lies the special superiority
of the Canadian Northwest, and why is it better than any other region?
The answer is easily found. In the first place, those rolling, grassy seas
of rich prairie land, intersected with an endless succession of lakes and
sloughs and swales, are now, as they have been for ages in the past, the
spring and autumn haunts of the migratory water-fowl that every spring
leave the drowned lands, lagoons, and rice-fields of the south, and wing
their long way over states and provinces, league after league, until they
have gained the lonely haunts in the north, where they breed. These
lakes, streams, and marshes are favorite feeding places of wild fowl, and
they break the vast expanses of grass everywhere. There is a practically
inexhaustible supply of food, and consequently the birds return year after
year to the same points.
(53)
y 54
FISHING AND   SHOOTING.
The prairies of the Western States, being very similar in many features,
once swarmed with game, and portions of them are yet good ; but the ravages of the horde of market hunters were so terrible, that some of the best
grounds over the border have been irretrievably ruined. This is not the
case in the Canadian territory, nor is it likely ever to be. It is yet a new
country ; and, though settlers are rapidly taking up the famous fat land,
portions of it will always harbor wild fowl: Keen sportsmen were among
the first to seek the new land when it was opened for settlement, well
knowing what fields were there for the gun. They also knew of the fatal
attacks upon the game in the States. Their turn came after ; and, profiting
by the result of the deadly work
on the sister prairies, they determined to save their game from a
like fate by properly protecting it.
The value of their efforts is proved
by the swarms of fowl now in the
ancient haunts.
And there is big game also in
<SS
:/
M
•f\^T^^-'''^C4'   V^eniy-   The buffalo is practically extinct,'tis true;
^V^»xJ *3ut the giant moose, king of the deer tribe, yet
haunts many parts of the country where a proper
amount of browse can be found. The elk, caribou, jumping or mule deer, common deer,
pronghorn antelope, black and brown bear, gray
wolf, lynx, coyote, fox, wolverine, beaver, and several other animals
valued for their furs, are yet found in great numbers. But the great
variety is among the feathered game. Several species of grouse may be
killed, including the prairie chicken, pinated grouse, ruffed grouse, spruce
grouse, ptarmigan, and willow ptarmigan, in the northern part of Western Canada, and the blue grouse (cock of the mountains) in British
Columbia.
Among the water fowl are the trumpeter and whistling swans, the
Canada goose, Ross's goose, lesser snow goose, and Hutchins' goose ; the
Canada goose and the snow goose being the most numerous. The mallard,
black duck, canvas-back, redhead, pintail, gadwall, wood-duck, wigeon,
J THE CANADIAN  NORTHWEST.
55
green-winged, blue-winged, and cinnamon teal, spoon-bill, shoveller, golden
eye, buffle-head, blue-bill, snipe, golden plover, and fifteen varieties of the
same family, great flocks of curlew, and many waders of lesser importance
are found. About every marshy bit the bittern and heron will be seen, and,
in addition to these, hundreds of cormorants, pelican, sand-hill cranes,
coot, rail, etc.
And now to point out a few of the many places where the game can be
easily got at. In the western portion of northwestern Ontario, from Ignace
to the Manitoba boundary, there are numerous lakes in which excellent
trout and maskinonge can be obtained, while in the small lakes, tributary
to the Lake of the Woods and which are reached by canoes from Rat Port-
tage, black bass are fairly plentiful. In the extreme east of Manitoba, in
the immediate vicinity of and between Rennie and Molson stations, is an
excellent country for moose, perhaps one of the surest points easily reached
from Winnipeg; and here there should be no difficulty in securing specimens of this, the greatest of Canadian deer. Bear (black) are also very
numerous ; there are plenty of ruffed and spruce grouse, and a few caribou.
Sportsmen can travel comfortably by rail to these grounds from Winnipeg
in a few hours. From Winnipeg those looking for wing shooting may reach
the haunts of prairie chicken and grouse (pinated) by driving a few miles out
upon the prairie, and in the brush in the valleys of the Red and Assiniboine
Rivers ruffed grouse and Wilson and jack-snipe are plentiful, and sometimes
rabbits will be found ; but ruffed grouse shooting is somewhat difficult, owing to the thickness of the cover. Such a trip means starting early in the
morning and returning to Winnipeg in the evening. Occasionally the fun
is varie.d by knocking over a few duck and snipe at the sloughs.
Reaburn Station, on the Canadian Pacific, thirty-five miles west from
Winnipeg, is a place well worth a trial. There are plenty of duck on the
lake close by, and in ordinary seasons heavy bags are made. No doubt it
will be good for many years to come ; though, owing to the fact that it is
so easily reached, it has to stand quite a cannonading occasionally. A few
"chickens" frequent the higher parts of the prairie near this lake, and
plover are always available to help fill a bag. Some settlers' houses are
close by, and a number of useful skiffs are kept for hire.
Should the sportsman desire a couple of days or more under canvas, he
cannot do better than drive from Winnipeg forty miles northwest to
Shoal Lake. On the way across, prairie '' chickens " will demand attention,
and in the unsettled country on the north of the lake are a few moose
and elk, and many black-tailed deer. The lake is a great resort for waterfowl of all kinds common to the province, and for mixed shooting it
is A I.
Another good point is Whitewater Lake, in Southern Manitoba, reached
from Winnipeg by a short trip over the Manitoba & Southwestern Railway,
a branch of the Canadian Pacific. Here " chickens," snipe, and plover are
found in fair numbers, and there are thousands of geese, duck, crane, and
other waterfowl. The north end of the lake is reached from Boissevain,
but at Whitewater Station, on the south shore of the lake, canoes and skiffs
can be hired, and the facilities there provided enable the sportsmen to obtain good flight shooting when geese are going out to feed, and also to get
into the favorite haunts of the canvas-back. Killarney Lake as well as
Pelican Lake, a little north thereof, are excellent spots, while on Rock Lake
near Clearwater, and Swan Lake, adjacent to Pilot Mound, good bags can
_y 56
FISHING AND  SHOOTING.
always be had. Near Whitewater are the Tiger Hills, leading into the-
Pembina Mountains, haunted by elk, black-tailed deer, and black and
brown bear ; it also being a good locality for grouse. Camp outfit must be
taken, but the sport will well repay all trouble, as ample occupation can be
found for both rifle and shotgun.
Lake Winnipeg offers still stronger inducements. You go from Winnipeg via Canadian Pacific Railway to Selkirk, and then drive, or paddle down
Red River, to the lake.    The great marshes about the mouth of Red River
extend for miles, and form one of the largest duck grounds in the Northwest, and they actually swarm with all kinds of waterfowl in the season.
Here the sportsman can shoot till his gun gets too hot to hold, and, providing he holds straight, kill enormous bags of choice duck. In the vicinity
of Fort Alexander, at the mouth of the Winnipeg River, are moose, caribou, and bear, and the Winnipeg and English rivers offer fascinating routes
and grand scenery, should a farther trip by canoe be decided on. Upon the
western shore of Lake Winnipeg moose, caribou, and bear will also be found
and about Big Island and Grassy Narrows uncounted flocks of geese resort. THE CANADIAN  NORTHWEST.
57
Lake Manitoba is also a noted place for water fowl—which means that
the birds are there in myriads. This latter lake is reached from Portage la
Prairie, or by buggy from Winnipeg, stopping one night on the way at Shoal
Lake, already mentioned ; and in addition to the geese, duck, etc., the
game list includes " chickens," and moose, elk, and blacktailed deer in the
Riding Mountains. The town of Minnedosa is another promising centre
for "chicken," grouse, and rabbit shooting, and from here the Riding
Mountains may again be reached. There are also good spots near Strath-
clair and Solsgirth. The route to these places is via Manitoba & Northwestern Railway from Portage la Prairie.
The Dauphin country is a veritable sportinan's paradise, prairie chicken
are always plentiful on the Dauphin plains, and big game, such as elk,
moose, bear, and deer, abounds in the forests of the Riding and Duck
mountains, where the Dominion Government have wisely set apart a very
large area comprising several hundred thousand acres, as a permanent
Timber Reserve, and which will become the " Adirondacks " of Manitoba. The waters and shores of
Lakes Dauphin and Winnipegoosis
afford a splendid summer resort or
home and feeding ground for all
kinds of waterfowl. Not only can
duck be seen there in thousands,
and also large flocksof geese, but
the trumpet-like call of that king of
waterfowl, the white swan, can
always be heard on these lakes,
during the shooting season. The
east side of Lake Winnipegoosis
is also a natural home for game of
all kinds where the moose, deer,
bear, and bands of countless caribou
roam in sylvan solitude undisturbed
by the hunter. The Dauphin district
is reached via the Lake Manitoba
Railway and Canal Company's line
from Portage la Prairie.
F"rom   McGregor to   Brandon,
along the main line of the C. P. R.
the country is full of chickens, ducks, and grouse. A drive across country
from the former station to Holland, on the Southwestern branch line of the
Canadian Pacific Railway, takes the sportsman through a veritable paradise,
as in addition to the winged game there are rabbits, prairie wolves, jumping
deer, and bear.
Oak Lake is another place where geese, duck, and plover may be
secured in numbers. The lake is within an easy drive of the station, and a
party taking their tent, etc., can make their camp, and have time to place
themselves for the evening flight shooting. At the east side of the lake
there is good camping ground right in the line of flight, and on the north
side the geese leave the lake in large numbers to feed in the neighboring
wheat-fields.
Between Oak Lake and Qu'Appelle chickens are plentiful, and ducks 58
FISHING  AND  SHOOTING.
are  also to be had in the neighborhood of Broadview.    North of Qu'-
Appelle big game is also to be found in large herds.
At Yellow Grass, on the "Soo" branch line from Pasqua, ground
which has never yet been shot over, ducks, geese, and plover are in
myriads.
The " Mecca " of goose shooting is to be had on the south side of Buffalo
Lake about twenty miles north of Moose Jaw; wild geese in countless
thousands come down from their feeding grounds in the Arctic circle in the
months of September and October and remain there until they take their
departure for the south when ice begins to form on the lake. The country
to the south of the lake is well settled and the wheat-stubble field affords
excellent feeding grounds. Proper hides dug in the stubble fields in the
line of the flight of the geese and decoys set out will afford the finest goose
shooting the keenest sportsman can imagine.
On the branch railway from Regina to Prince Albert, sportsmen can
get good bags at Lumsden and chickens and ducks at Duck Lake, while
in the illimitable pine forest beyond Prince Albert (which town is reached
by railway from Regina) game of nearly every description abounds, Montreal and Red Deer lakes
being especially good spots.
Complete   outfits   can   be
procured at Prince Albert.
Rush Lake, a few miles
from the   station   on   the
main line of the Canadian
Pacific Railway, is one of
the finest points for geese,
duck, and other waterfowl,
where large bags can surely
be made.
Farther west, again, is
the antelope country: Swift
Current, Maple Creek, and
Medicine Hat being among
the best outfitting points for
a trip after these, the most beautiful animals of the plains. At Calgary,
in sight of the "Rockies," superb sport can be enjoyed with the grouse
among the brushy foot-hills of the giant range. Good shooting may be
found within easy driving distance of the town, and glorious mountain-
trout fishing on the Bow River and its tributaries, to say nothing of the
delights of visiting the ranches and being entertained by those princes
of good fellows, the ranchmen. North of Calgary is the Red Deer
region, easily reached by rail, a great one for big game, though but seldom visited as yet, and further north still, beyond Edmonton, in the great
Mackenzie basin, a field is offered the more adventurous hunter. The
country is sparsely inhabited, and there are excellent opportunities for
securing musk-ox, moose, reindeer, bear, on Lake Athabaska and Great
Slave Lake ; and at nearly all points en route are ducks, swan, and geese
galore. There are white fish and trout in the lakes and rivers. The trip
commences with a go-mile wagon-ride to Athabaska landing from which
steamers belonging to the Hudson's Bay Co. run to within the limits of the
Arctic Circle.    Inquiries at the Company's offices at Winnipeg should be THE  CANADIAN  NORTHWEST.
59
made, however, before the trip is undertaken, to prevent disappointment,
as the steamers run at infrequent intervals.
So much for the sport of the prairies. We have now skimmed over
the great grassy sea, touching briefly on the most prominent of the many
localities to choose from, the intention being merely to give the stranger
CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY HOTBLS.
a few hints of the wonderful resources of the country from a sporting point
of view.
Lying in the little tent beside the chosen water, on the first night of
his jaunt, the sportsman whiffs the last pipe, and his gaze tries in vain to
pierce the gathering mists and shadows creeping over the "level waste and
rounding gray " of apparently illimitable prairie. Before him stand the tall
battalions of rushes marking the boggy shores of the lake, dark and mysteri- 6o FISHING AND   SHOOTING.
ous, like a shadowy wall. The air is filled with the rush of swift wings, as
the restless fowl scurry hither and thither ere settling down. A strange
but, to him, wondrous sweet melody of cries comes with the lazy breeze.
The honk of goose, the quack of mallard, and the chatter and gabble of unseen hosts, are the last sounds his ears detect as he drifts into the shadowland,
with a golden promise of glorious sport with the dawn. The promise will
be well fulfilled, for those same weird cries and the hum of wings will begin
ere the early breaking of the northern day ; and when night again falls there
will be no apparent diminution of the winged army, but he will have a
well-filled bag, such as can only be made in this, the sportsman's El
Dorado.
It should not be forgotten that many of the lakes and streams of the
prairies are stocked with fine fish, including maskinonge, pike, pickerel,
etc., and they furnish a pleasant change of occupation during weather too
warm for game to keep, or when it is desirable to give gun and rifle a rest.
Camping outfits, conveyances, helpers, and everything necessary for a
hunting excursion upon the plains, can be readily secured at Winnipeg,
and the sportsman need not burden himself with anything beyond his
personal effects. He can enjoy an unsurpassed train service so long as
he follows the railway, and should he diverge from the line, there are no
hardships to be undergone beyond what are sufficient to give a spice of
adventure to the experience of a holiday in the wilds.
In Southern Alberta, reached by the Macleod branch from Calgary, or
by the Lethbridge branch from Dunmore, in that portion of it lying between
Macleod and the mountains, there is the same variety of game to be found
as in other parts of the Northwest Territories, with the addition of blue
grouse (cock of the mountains) as the foothills are approached. There is
good chicken, geese, swan, and duck shooting between Macleod and the
international boundary. Trout are plentiful in the three' branches of the
Old Man River and in its numerous tributaries west of Macleod, and the
most enticing bait for the big ones is a mouse. There is also good trout
fishing in the St. Mary's and Waterton (also called the Kootenay) and in all
their branches, and capital sport with either gun or line can be obtained in
the chain of Kootenay Lakes on the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains.
Salmon trout weighing from fifteen to forty pounds are among the catches
in Eastern Kootenay. In the mountains back of these lakes, grizzly, cinnamon, silver top, brown, and black bear, mountain sheep, and goat are fairly
plentiful. Guides are necessary, and the tourist can be directed to them
from any of the settlements.
Next to be considered are the "Rockies" along the main line of the
Canadian Pacific, the first of the five ranges lying between the great prairie
belt and the Pacific Ocean. Over 500 miles of the grandest scenery must
be passed ere the western sea is reached, and nearly all of this chaos of
mountains is as wild as it was when first the eyes of the white man were
startled by their overpowering grandeur. Upon or among these marvels of
old-time rock building are the favorite haunts of every " man-fearing or
man-skeering " brute known in the whole country—elk, moose, deer, caribou, Rocky Mountain sheep and goat, panther, grizzly, black and brown
bear, lynx, wolf, etc., etc., while waterfowl abound upon many of the
mountain lakes, and several varieties of grouse are in the forests. But you
would never come away over here for feathered game, when it may be so
easily got upon the plains.    You want big game—stately elk, fierce bears, COLUMBIA AND  LOWER KOOTENAY RIVERS. 62 FISHING AND  SHOOTING.
sneaky panthers, big-horned sheep, snowy goats, etc. ? Very good. You
can have them, one and all, and caribou and deer to boot, providing you
yourself are game to follow your guide.
Now, there are places without number among these mountain ranges
where a man can find many of the varieties of the game mentioned ; but
mention need be only made of a few, from which a sportsman may safely
plan his operations.
The first important halting-place is at Banff, in the Canadian National
Park, Rocky Mountains, where the railway company has erected a palatial
hotel. Should a brief sojourn here be decided upon, the sportsman may
enjoy good duck shooting on the Vermilion Lakes, a short distance from
the hotel, and fine mountain trout fishing on the Bow and Cascade Rivers ;
also deep trolling for lake trout on Devil's Lake, all but the latter within
easy walking distance. Guides can be secured for extended trips into the
mountains after bear, sheep, and goat, to the north, south, or west.
Farther westward, at Field, is one of the company's inviting little chalet
hotels, and there and at Emerald Lakes seven miles away good fly fishing
can be had ; but it is hardly a desirable point for shooting. Still farther
west is the town of Golden, and from here a steamer makes regular trips up
the Columbia River to the lakes at its head, distant about ioo miles, and
affording access to a fine game district in which are sheep, goat, caribou,
elk, and bear. Outfits can be procured at Golden, and guides and supplies
at Windermere. The lagoons on each side of the steamboat channel swarm
with duck, geese, and swan—in fact, they are the favorite breeding-grounds
of the water-birds—and the headwaters of the river afford excellent trout
and grayling fishing. Westward, again, the next important stopping-place
is at the foot of the Great Glacier of the Selkirks, where the railway company have another of their comfortable mountain chalets, which, with its
annex, can accommodate a large number of guests. Immediately behind
the hotel is the Fish Creek Valley, reached by the Asulkan Pass and glacier,
Asulkan meaning in the Siwash tongue "the home of the white goat."
Securing a guide here, you can climb the mountains with a certainty of a
chance at goat or bear. In the early spring and autumn there is fairly good
fly fishing in the streams near the Glacier Hotel.
A new water, and one surely destined to become famous, is the Lower
Kootenay River, which teems with mountain trout of fair size. The many
who have tried it agree that it is one of the best streams available, while
the scenery is simply superb. The country contiguous to it is well stocked
with big game, having only lately been rendered accessible. The headwaters of the Kootenay Lakes and River rise a little west of Banff. The
river is, in great part, below Nelson, a succession of cascades, beautiful
from a scenic point of view and abounding in rainbow trout, from one
pound upwards, that are greedy for the fly. It is an ideal stream, rushing
through gorges, and over rapids broadening into pools and forming numerous "just the spots " into which, practically, any length of line can be cast
without the least obstruction from bushes or overhanging trees. And it
possesses the inestimable advantage of being entirely free from mosquitoes
and black flies. The Lower Kootenay is reached by rail from Revelstoke
station to Arrowhead station, on Upp'er Arrow Lake, and thence by the
fine new steamers, Nakusp and Kootenay, of the Canadian Pacific Railway
Company, through the Arrow Lakes to Robson, and thence by rail. A
month's outing in this region would be the beau ideal'of a sportsman's holiday. THE  CANADIAN  NORTHWEST. 63
Parties not wishing to be encumbered by carrying their cwn bedding and
camp outfits can be supplied by the company's agent at Nelson with new
mattrasses and pillows at a very small cost. In addition to this, complete
camp outfit, consisting of blankets, tents, cooking outfit, such as pots, pans,
plates, cups, knives and forks, etc., can be hired for a small charge. Supplies of all sorts of provisions of the best quality maybe purchased at reasonable prices. Good cooks can also be engaged at Nelson to accompany
fishing parties.
The necessary camp outfits will be carried free between Nelson and the
different fishing camps, and the trains each way between Robson and Nelson will stop (when flagged) at all the fishing camps to take and put off the
fishing parties. In short, everything has been arranged with the view of
affording every comfort and facility to those who may wish to spend a few
days in the Kootenay district enjoying the fishing, which is not surpassed
anywhere on the continent. As very few fish are caught under a pound
weight, and running up as high as three and four pounds, anglers should
provide themselves with a gaff or landing net, and be particular to see that
their flies and tackle are good and strong.
No guides are required on the Slocan River which empties its waters into
the lower Kootenay.    There is good fly-fishing in this stream.
In the Slocan district of the Kootenay, which lias just been opened up
by the building of the railway from Nakusp to Sandon, there is good brook
trout fishing in the streams that empty into Slocan Lake, while the lake
itself offers excellent deep-water fishing, of which the gold prospectors now
in that neighborhood are taking advantage.
Good hotel accommodation will be found at Robson, Nelson, Revelstoke,
Nakusp, and Arrowhead ; and any further information will be cheerfully
furnished on application to the Company's agents at those places
From south of Revelstoke to Robson, on both sides of the river and
lakes, goat, silvertips and caribou can be got within a day's tramp from point
of landing. Deer are plentiful between Nakusp and the international
boundary.
The Lardeau district, reached from Arrowhead by steam launch, also
offers a good field for the sportsman.
Ashcroft and Savona's Ferry on the Thompson River are good waters
where not only large catches are made, but where the bulk of the catch are
big fish, the silver trout running from one to four pounds each, and hard
fighters. In the Kootenay Lake, and also in Kamloops Lake, land-locked
salmon are taken. Professor Jordan, who caught them in both waters,
speaks of them as ouananiche, and has dubbed them Oncorlynchus Kamloops.
In the Okanagan Valley (reached by rail from Sicamous, on the main
line, to Vernon and thence by steamer) there is an abundance and variety
of large and small game. Efficient guides and hunters, all necessary horses
and complete camping outfit can be obtained at Vernon or Penticton at the
foot of Okanagan Lake. This was the scene of the famed hunting trip in
British Columbia of Archduke Ferdinand of Austria on his tour around the
world.
There is good fishing, also, at several points nearer the coast. Tourists
stopping at Vancouver can get a good day's fly fishing at Coquitlam River
seventeen miles by train to Westminster Junction, where there is a good
hotel. 64 FISHING AND  SHOOTING.
Capilano Creek or Seymour Creek, about an hour's row across the bay
from Vancouver, offers a good day's sport, while at the mouth of either
stream during low tide sea-trout weighing up to two to seven pounds afford
excellent sport. In the months of August, September, and October, a good
day's sport may be had trolling for salmon in the bay. Pacific Coast salmon
will not rise to a fly.but as many as fifteen or twenty fish, varying from five
to twenty pounds, are sometimes killed in an afternoon with the rod after
being hooked with the troll hook.
Harrison Hot Springs, reached from Agassiz station on the Canadian
Pacific Railway, is a pleasant summer resort about forty miles from Vancouver, from which the angler can reach excellent waters. An hour's row
across Harrison Lake will take him to streams where more trout can be
killed in a day with fly than he would like to carry far.
Excellent trout fishing is to be had at Lake Beautiful on Burrard Inlet,
twenty-three miles from Vancouver, which is reached by steam launch to be
procured at any time from boatmen.
At many points on the coast one can obtain sport with deer, bear, grouse,
and waterfowl. And again another field is open on Vancouver Island, that
land beloved of Englishmen. Within short distances of the beautiful city
of Victoria, grouse and the blue quail, generally styled California quail, are
plentiful, and favorite game with the residents and visitors. A short
journey into the interior of the island will bring you to the ranges of deer'
and bear, both being readily killed. Added to these are several varieties of
duck, etc., and last of all the English pheasant, introduced several years
ago, and now perfectly acclimated and thriving wonderfully in the new land.
The cry of " mark cock," or " ware hen," may sound strange to many; but
the newly arrived Briton knows right well what it means, and what rare
sport the long tails furnish ; and it is ten to one that he knows how to stop
them, too. These birds are also found in numbers on Lulu Island and Sea
Island at the mouth of the Fraser, within five miles of New Westminster
and fourteen of Vancouver (by excellent roads) where duck, snipe, and
plover, too, are in great abundance in season. Information about these"
places is to be gained at the Canadian Pacific Railway Company's offices at
Vancouver.
And now, in conclusion, a few words about the country just covered.
The pursuit of what is generally dubbed by the craft "big game " in the
mountain wilds of Canada is no child's play. To be successful, a man must
possess iron nerve and unflinching determination ; he must be a good shot,
and strong enough to stand rough work ; for the latter is frequently necessary
before the game can be reached, and the former is very liable to be an extremely useful accomplishment, especially if the quarry happens to be a
grizzly bear.
The accounts published by parties and by individual sportsmen of their
shooting trips through the Northwest and British Columbia are legion. The
general tenor of their letters maybe found in an extract from a letter written
by the Bloomington Hunting Club, which went through the country recently
in a private car, stopping over at those points pre-arranged for exploitation.
They say : " The sport met with on the line of the Canadian Pacific Railway more than fulfilled our expectations, and many of the party will return
home with handsome souvenirs in the shape of goat, sheep, caribou, and
deer heads, and pelts of the grandest big game of this continent."
Sportsmen who have shpt jn the famous wilds of Africa and India are
M Ii
THE CANADIAN NORTHWEST.
65
test,*-,
"M
/w
'rMmmm'
v'ww
apt  to feel proud of their
lion, tiger, and other handsome    skins    that    origially
covered the works of some
lithe   and  bloodthirsty   big
feline ; but, with all due respect   to   them   and   their
prowess afield, many would
prefer the hide of a grizzly of
their own killing than half a
dozen peltries of "Leo" or
"Stripes " or any other cat
that ever jumped.   Although
undoubtedly there have been
many occasions when it was
a nice question whether, at
the close of the  affair,  the
tiger would be carried into
camp or would find inside accommodation for the hunter,  and although we know that men hunting in
South Africa have occasionally felt that a'lion looks best behind the bars of
a menagerie, yet, as a rule, you can " pot" your lion over a carcass, and be
yourself, meantime, perfectly safe on some prepared post, or natural stronghold ; you can bore holes between the stripes of the fur "blazer" worn by
his feline majesty of Bengal, while you yourself are squatted in a howdah,
strapped to the back of a twenty-odd-hand elephant, while a tribe of barelegged natives yell and scream and hoot to keep their own courage up and
drive the jungle prowler to the "Sahib. "    You will probably get the tiger,
and, should he charge,   experience a temporary excitement, but not often
incur much danger.
Shooting the grizzly is other work. The big plantigrade is always looking for trouble, and when he digs up the hatchet he goes on the war-path.
You will have no friendly elephant, nor army of beaters, to satisfy his craving for somebody's scalp. You start on his track, and follow him into his
gloomy fastness amid a chaos of rocks; with your life in one hand and your
rifle in the other; and, unless you are made of the right material, stop
before the scent gets too hot, or peradventure you may be found empty-
handed by your party.
However, this spice of dan ,  or rather this danger spiced with a
chance of escape, is very fascinating ; and, if you would fain be fascinated
to your heart's content, seek the Rocky Mountains of British Columbia, and
enjoy your whim.
And such fields for sport. Not pen, nor brush, nor tongue can convey
the proper idea of the sublimity of those marvellous mountains ; they are
something too imposing for mere words ; they must be seen and studied.
One must live among them and watch the glories of sunlight upon their
everlasting snows and glaciers ; must climb their steeps and breathe the
cold, thin atmosphere of those dizzy elevations, and train his eyes to
measure soaring pinnacles and dark abysses ere he can realize their stupendous grandeur. One must hear the thunderous voice of the whirling
storms amid their peaks ; the avalanche tearing the forests from their
native slopes;   the avulsion of crag and giant boulder from buttresses 66
FISHING  AND   SHOOTING.
frowning darkly above the clouds, and the booming echoes of waves of
mighty sound breaking against the walls of unmeasured ravines, ere the
full power of those matchless monuments of the old-time war of forces is
impressed upon the mind.    And then the glory of laying low the game
^§55^¥^*^??§^R^§§3
ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP.
that haunts them. Right well did the Indian hunter know what tested
manhood, when first he wrenched the great scimitar-shaped claws from
the broad fore-paw of the dead grizzly, and strung them around his neck
as a token to prove a man.    Time has changed many things, the rifle has THE CANADIAN NORTHWEST. 67
supplanted the bow, but nothing has supplanted the grizzly ; he is there'
yet, and king of the wilds ; his claws are yet the proudest ornament the
savage can wear, and his skin the most valued trophy of the white sportsman. Up above the grizzly's range are found the white goats and the
famous big-horn mountain sheep, both eagerly sought after by sportsmen ;
the latter especially for their handsome heads.
Except from bears the sportsman runs little chance of getting into
difficulty. True, it is claimed by some that the panther is an ugly customer, writers even going so far as to say that he is more dangerous than
the grizzly, and sometimes proves his superiority in a dispute over a
carcass. Such statements are believed to be mere rubbish ; for the panther,
lithe and powerful though he may be, is a great, long-tailed, be-whiskered
coward ; a bravo of most terrifying appearance, but mighty careful of his
handsome skin ; in fact, what he is generally termed by the herders and
hunters—a big sneak-cat.
The handsomest game of the Rockies is, of course, the noble elk, or
wapiti. Their immense branching antlers, and the clean-cut, blood-like
appearance of their heads, make them particularly attractive ornaments
for a gentleman sportsman's home, and they are in great demand. The
species is now rare in many localities where they formerly abounded, but
they are still plentiful among the foot-hills of the Rockies, and they can
also be found in the Northwest Territories, and in Manitoba north of
Selkirk, and sometimes in the Duck and Riding Mountains.
Next to the elk ranks the caribou, and a royal quarry he is. They
are very plentiful about Eagle Pass, in the Selkirk range, near the Shuswap
Lakes, and in the Okanagan district, and there should be no difficulty in
securing fine specimens. They are found also in Manitoba, in the region
between Lakes Winnipeg and Manitoba, etc., and wonderful stories are
told of great herds in the Peace River country.
The several species comprising the game list mentioned above are distributed throughout the mountains in greater or less numbers, being plentiful wherever the conditions are favorable. More minute details concerning
them are impossible in a book of this nature, and unnecessary, as the game,
except at a point here and there, is as abundant as it was before the first
rifle-shot woke the echoes of those monstrous canons.
The sportsman contemplating a trip by the Canadian Pacific Railway
across the continent to these fields of sport must bear in mind that heavy
weapons are needed for satisfactory work. Lighter ones may do—the
Indians kill grizzlies with the lightest Winchester rifles ; but it is better
to take a repeater of the heaviest make. Plenty of powder and lead
means sure work if the rifle is held right, and by using such you will lose
less wounded game, and greatly lessen the risk of a clawing from some
infuriated bear. The Indian, it must be remembered, are greatly your
superiors, both in the approach of, or retreat from, dangerous game ;
they steal noiselessly and patiently upon their victim, and never fire
until they are at close range, and sure of dropping it in its tracks. You
will not be able to accomplish this, and therefore require a weapon that
will do deadly execution at any reasonable distance. Properly equipped,
you will drop your bear or elk cleanly and well ; and when your holiday
is done, and you are speeding homeward by the "Royal Road," with
your muscles strong after glorious work, and your skin tanned by the
mountain air, you will think over every moment of your outing ; of the 68
FISHING AND   SHOOTING.
splendor of the sunrise, the magnificence of the scenery ; the glaciers,
the torrents, and the thousand and one marvels of the wonderland you
have left ; of your beautiful trophies, and, as you take your last backward
glance, and your straining eyes catch the last glint of the snow-clad peaks,
you will say, "My heart 's in the mountains," unless, indeed, it should
happen to have been left elswhere. CLOSE SEASONS FOR  GAME  AND   FISH.
iYNOPSIS of laws governing shooting and fishing in the Provinces
and States traversed by the Canadian Pacific Railway system.
Note.—The following condensations of the Game Laws, etc.,
have been carefully revised, and made as correct as possible up to the date
of the issue of this pamphlet. Owing to the fact that game laws are frequently changed, absolute accuracy is not guaranteed.
PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
Shooting.—Moose,*caribou, elk, and reindeer protected entirely until
October, 1900. . . . No deer shall be hunted, taken, or killed between
November 15th and November 1st following. . . . Beaver and otter can
not be killed before 1st November, 1897. . . . Quail and wild turkeys,
December 15th to September 15th. Turkeys cannot be killed before 15th
October, 1897. . . . Grouse, pheasants, woodcock, golden plover,
prairie fowl, partridge, snipe, rail, hare, 15th December to 15th September
following. . . . Swans and geese, ist May to 15th September. . . .
Ducks of all kinds and other waterfowl,- 15th December to ist September..
No person shall shoot between sunset and sunrise. Cotton tail rabbits may
be shot at all times.
No person can kill deer in Ontario, except he hold a license from the
Provincial Secretary. No person shall kill more than two deer, and deer
are not to be hunted or killed in the water.
No person shall kill or take any moose, elk, reindeer, caribou, deer,
partridge or quail, for the purpose of exporting the same out of Ontario.
No person shall sell or barter any quail, wild turkey, snipe, woodcock or
partridge killed in Ontario before 15th September, 1897.
Fishing. Close season.—Salmon, trout, and whitefish, between the
1st and 30th November. . . . Speckled trout, brook trout, river trout,
from 15th September to ist May. . . . Bass and Maskinonge from 15th
April to 15th June. . . . Pickerel, 15th April to 15th May. No person shall kill more than fifty speckled or brook trout in one day, or more
than aggregates in weight 15 pounds, or any trout less than five inches in
length. Smaller ones to be returned to the water. Not more than one
dozen bass to be killed in one day, or any less than ten inches long.
PROVINCE   OF QUEBEC.
Shooting.—Deer and moose from ist January to ist October. . . .
Caribou, from ist February to ist September. . . . Fee to be fixed
by Governor in Council.
N.B.—Tne hunting of moose, caribou, or deer, with dogs or by means
of snares, traps, etc., is prohibited ; but red deer may be hunted with dogs
in the counties of Ottawa and Pontiac from 20th October to 1st November
of each year. No person (white man or Indian) has a right, during one
season's hunting, to kill or take alive—unless- he has previously obtained
(69) JO FISHING AND  SHOOTING.
a permit from the Commissioner of Crown Lands for that purpose—more*
than two moose, two caribou, and three deer. After the first ten days of
the close season, all railways and steamboat companies and public carriers
are forbidden to carry fish and the whole or any part (except the skin) of
any moose, caribou, or deer, without being authorized thereto by the Commissioner of Crown Lands.
Beaver hunting is prohibited until ist of January, 1900. . . . Mink,
otter, marten, pekan, fox or lynx, from ist April to 1st November. . . .
Hare, from 1st February to ist November. . . . Muskrat from 1st
May to ist April following, and bear between the ist day of July and the
20th of August. . . . Woodcock and snipe, plover, curlew, tatten or
timid piper, from ist February to ist September. . . . Partridge of
any kind, ist February to 15th September. . . . Black duck, teal,
wild duck of any kind (except sheldrake, loo, and gull), from ist March to
1st September. . . . (And at any time of the year, between one hour
after sunset and one hour before sunrise, it is also forbidden to keep exposed
during such prohibited hours, lures or decoys, etc.). . . . Insectivorous
birds, etc., protected between ist March and ist September. ... It
is unlawful to take nests or eggs at any time.
N.B.—Fine of $2 to $100, or imprisonment in default of payment.
(No one who is not domiciled in the Province of Quebec can at any time
hunt in this Province without having previously obtained a license to that
effect from the Commissioner of Crown Lands. Such permit is not transferable.)
Fishing.—Salmon (fly-fishing),  from   15th August to  ist February.
Speckled trout (salmo foniinalis), from ist October to 30th April.
.    .    .    Ouananiche, 15th September to ist December.    .    .    .    Large
gray trout, lake trout, from 15th October to ist  December	
Pickerel {dortf), 15th April to 15th May. . . . Bass, 15th April to 15th
June. . . . Maskinonge, 25th May to ist July. . . . Whitefish,
from 10th November to ist December.
No person who is not domiciled in the Province of Quebec can at any
time fish in the lakes or rivers of this Province, not actually under lease,
without having previously obtained a license to that effect from the Commissioner of Crown Lands. Such licenses are only valid for the time, place,
and persons therein indicated.
PROVINCE OF NOVA SCOTIA.
Shooting.—Moose and caribou, from 15th January to 15th September. Cow moose protected for two years. . . . No person shall kill
or take more than two moose and two caribou during any one year. . . .
No hunting of moose or caribou with dogs allowed. . . . Deer or
American elk protected until October, 1904. . . . Hare or rabbit,
from ist February to ist October. Newfoundland hare and jack-rabbit
prohibited. . . . Mink, from ist March to ist November. . . .
Otter protected until ist May, 1897, and beaver, until 1st November,
1900. . . . Ruffed grouse or partridge, ist December to 15th September. . . . .Woodcock, snipe, and teal, blue winged duck and wood-
duck from ist March to 1st September, save in Cape Breton, where close
season is from ist March to 20th August. . . . Pheasant, blackcock,
capercailzie, ptarmigan, sharp-tailed grouse, spruce partridge or checker CLOSE  SEASONS  FOR  GAME AND  FISH. 71
partridge, and insectivorous birds protected at all times. . . . Nonresidents of Nova Scotia must take out license to shoot in the Province,
obtainable from the Provincial Secretary, or parties possessing needful
authority in every county for large game $30—for birds and rabbits $10.
Fishing.—Salmon, from 15th August to ist February, with fly.
. . . . Trout of all kinds, land-locked salmon, from ist October to
31st March.
Note.—By act of 1897 duck shooting in the County of Cumberland
only, is extended till May ist.
PROVINCE OF NEW BRUNSWICK.
Shooting.—Moose, caribou, deer, or red deer, from 31st December
to ist September. . . . Cow and female calf moose are protected at
all times. . . . License fee for residents of N.B. $2.00 and for nonresidents $20. No person shall kill or take more than two moose, three
caribou, or three deer or red deer, during any one year ; and no party
of three or more shall kill more than one moose, two caribou, or
two deer for each member,  exclusive of   guides.    .    .    .    Beaver and
otter  protected until 20th   March,   1899 Mink, sable,  and
fisher, ist May to ist September. . . . Partridge 31st Dec. to 20th
Sept. Woodcock and snipe 1st Dec. to ist Sept. . . . Black duck,
wood duck, and teal, or any other kind of wild duck, 1st December
to ist September. . . . Other ducks, brant, geese, and other waterfowl shall not be hunted with artificial light, nor with swivel or punt guns,
nor trapped or netted at any time. . . . Sea-gulls, song-birds and
insectivorous birds, entirely protected. Moose, caribou and deer are not
to be hunted with a dog or dogs, or to be caught by means of traps and
snares, or at night by means of artificial light or lights. Hunting and shooting of animals and birds prohibited on Sundays.
No non-resident shall be allowed to kill or pursue with intent to kill
any moose or caribou at any time of the year without having first obtained
a license for the purpose, which may be obtained from the Provincial
Secretary, Fredericton, N.B., or from the Chief of Game Commissioners,
St. John N.B., by payment of a fee of $20, license to be in force for one
year.
Fishing.—Salmon (net fishing), 15th August to ist March. . . .
Salmon (angling), 15th August to ist February. ... All kinds of
trout, 15th September to 31st March. The use of explosives or poisonous
substances for killing fish is illegal. This applies to the whole Dominion.
Streams leased to individuals or clubs cannot be fished by the public.
PROVINCE  OF MANITOBA.
Shooting—None of the following animals and birds shall be shot at,
hunted, trapped, taken, or killed on any Sunday, or between the dates
named in any year, nor shall any common carrier carry them, in whole
or in part (except the skin), within the said periods :
All kinds of deer, including antelope, elk, or wapiti, moose, reindeer,
or caribou, or their fawns, for two years from 15th October, 1896. . . .
The grouse known as prairie chickens and partridges, between ist December and 15th September following.    .    .    .    Woodcock, plover, snipe, 72 fishing and shooting.
and sandpipers, between ist January and ist August. . . . All kinds
of wild duck, sea duck, wigeon, teal, between ist May and ist September.
. . . Otter, fisher or pekan, beaver, and sable, between 15th May and
ist October. . . . Muskrat, between 15th May and ist November
following.    .    .    .    Marten, between 15th April and ist November.
No birds or animals, excepting fur-bearing animals, shall be trapped,
nor shall any swivel guns, batteries, or night lights be used to kill swans,
geese or ducks ; nor shall any beaver or muskrat house be destroyed at
any time ; nor shall poison or poisonous bait be exposed for any animal
or bird.
No eggs of the birds mentioned may at any time be taken or had in
possession. This act does not apply to Indians on their reserves. No
person or corporation shall at any time export any of the animals or
birds mentioned. Persons without a domicile in the province must take
out a license, costing $50, to kill any of the animals or birds named.
Fishing.—Whitefish, tullibee, salmon, or lake trout may not be caught,
bought, sold, or had in possession between October 5 and December 15 ;
pickerel, pike, gold eyes, mulletts, April 15 and May 15 ; sturgeon, May
15 and June 15 ; speckled trout, not between September 15 and May 1.
NORTHWEST TERRITORIES.
Shooting.—Close season for elk, moose, caribou, deer, antelope or
their fawn, mountain sheep or goat, from 1st February to ist October,
Limit six head in any one season. . . . Grouse, partridge, pheasant,
or prairie chicken between 15th December and 15th September ; limit, 20
birds in any one day. . . . Any kind of wild duck, from 15th May
to 23d August. . . . Plover, snipe, and sandpiper, from ist January
to ist August. . . . Mink, fisher, and marten, from 15th April to ist
November. . . . Otter and beaver, from 15th May to ist October. .
. . Muskrat from r5H1 May to 1st November. . . . Non-residents,
unless a guest of a resident of the Territories, require a license to hunt ;
fee, $5.
Fishing.—Speckled trout, from 15th September to ist May> . . .
Pickerel (dort!), from 15th April to 151I1 May.
PROVINCE OF BRITISH COLUMBIA.
Shooting.—To the east of the Cascade Range—Blue grouse, ptarmigan, Franklin's or fool hen, and meadow lark, from 16th November to
31st August.    .    .    .    Wild duck of all kinds, bittern, plover, and heron
from ist  March to  31st August Prairie hen, prairie chicken,
and willow and ruff grouse protected.
Throughout the Province—Caribou, deer, wapiti, commonly known
as elk, moose, hare, mountain goat, and mountain sheep from ist January
to 30th September.
West of the Cascades—Any blue grouse, duck, ptarmigan, meadow
larks from 3d January to 20th August ; or any willow grouse, or pheasants
from 2nd January to 30th September.
On Vancouver Island—Cock pheasants, from 2nd January to 30th
September.
Gulls are  protected at all  times     Deer cannot be hunted with dogs close seasons for game AND FISH. 73
1
west of the Cascade range. No one shall, in one year or season, kill more
than ten deer, five caribou, three mountain sheep, five mountain goat, two
bull wapiti or elk, or two bull moose.
Fishing.—Speckled trout, from 15th October to 15th March.    .
Salmon trout, 1st October to 30th November.     .     .     .     Salmon anglingj
31st October to 1st March.   .   .   .   Sturgeon, 1st June to 15th July.   .   .
Whitefish, ist October to 30th November.
NEWFOUNDLAND.
Game.—Caribou rst February to 15th July (inclusive) and from 7th
October to 10th November (inclusive), license to kill caribou $100 for nonresidents. Not more than three stag and two doe to be killed per season.
. . . Otters and beavers, 1st April (o ist October. . . . Rabbits
and hares, ist March to 15th September. . . . Willow grouse (partridge) and othergrouse, 12th January to 15th September. . . . Curlew
plover, snipe, or other wild or migratory birds, excepting wild geese, 12th
January to 20th August. . . . Moose or elk protected for ten years
from ist January, 1896.
Fishing.—Salmon, from nth September to 30th April. . . . Trout
char, whitefish, land-locked salmon or any fresh-water fish, in any lake,
river, or stream, 10th September to 15th January following.
STATE OF MAINE.
Shooting.—Moose, deer, or caribou, ist January to ist October. And
no person shall have in his possession, between ist October and ist January
more than one bull moose, one caribou, and two deer. . . . Mink,
sable, otter, or fisher, ist May to 15th October, and muskrat, between May
20th and March ist. . . . Beaver protected for six years. . . .
Ducks, ist May to 1st September. . . . Ruffed grouse or partridge,
ist December to 20th September, and cannot be transported out of the
State at any season. . . . Woodcock, ist December to ist September.
. Pinnated grouse, commonly called prairie chicken, ist January to
ist September. . . . Quail, ist December to ist October. . . .
Plover, ist May to ist August. Insectivorous birds are protected at all
seasons.    Sunday is a close time for all game.
Fishing.—Land-locked salmon, trout, and togue, 1st October to ist
May, excepting on St. Croix and tributaries, and waters in Kennebec
County, 15th September to 1st May; also on certain streams around
Rangeley Lakes, from 1st July to 1st May. . . . White perch, ist
April to ist July. . . . Citizens of the State, however, may fish for and
convey to their homes, during February, March, and April, excepting where
prohibited by special law. . . . None of the fish named to be taken at
any time except in ordinary mode of angling with single-baited hook or
artificial flies. . . . Salmon, from 15th July to ist April, but may be
taken with single-baited hook or artificial flies from ist April to 15th September. . . . Land-locked salmon and trout not to be transported
except in possession of the owner, and not more than twenty-five pounds of
each by one person. 74 FISHING and shooting.
An examination of the special laws will show that several counties are -
close to hunting moose, deer or caribou ; that ice-fishing in Oxford and
Franklin Counties is prohibited, and that various streams are protected all
the time.
STATE OF VERMONT.
Shooting.—Deer between ist November and ist October. . . .
Rabbit or hare, from ist May to ist September. . . . Woodcock,
quail, wild duck, wild goose, and plover, between ist January and ist
September. . . . Ruffed grquse, between ist January and 15th September, but at no time to be shipped out of the State. . . . Sharp-
tailed and pinnated grouse, capercailzie, black game, ptarmigan or pheasant,
protected until ist January, 1900. . . . Insectivorous birds protected
at all seasons, and sharp-tailed grouse, pinnated grouse, capercailzie, black
game, ptarmigan or pheasant to ist January, 1900.
Fishing.—Trout, land-locked salmon, salmon trout or longe, from ist
September to ist May. . . . Black bass, from ist January to 15th
June. . . . Bass under 10 inches, and trout, salmon trout and landlocked salmon under 6 inches, must be returned to the water.
Wall-eyed pike, or pike perch, white perch or muskallonge, from April
15th to June 15th, except in Lake Champlain, where the open season is all
the year round with hook and line.
STATE OF MICHIGAN.
Shooting.—Deer from 25th November to ist November following.
Wild turkey, 15th December to 30th October. . . . Partridge (lower peninsula), from 15th December to ist November ; (upper
peninsula) from ist January to 30th September. . . . Quail, from 16th
December to 31st October. . . . Woodcock, from 16th December to
15th August. . . . Jack-snipe, red-head, blue-bill, canvas-back, widgeon, and pintail ducks, and wild geese and jack-snipe, from ist May to
ist September. . . . Other wild waterfowl and snipe, from ist January to ist September. Game not to be shipped out of the State. Quail,
woodcock, and partridge cannot be sold. Not more than five deer may be
killed one season by one man. Non-residents must pay a license of $25 to
hunt deer, and residents 50 cents.
Fishing.—Speckled trout, land-locked salmon, grayling or California
trout, from ist September to 1st May. . . . Trout, California trout,
land-locked salmon or grayling, less than six inches in length, must not be
taken.
STATE OF  WISCONSIN.
Shooting.—Deer may not be lawfully killed between 20th November
and ist November succeeding. Not more than ten deer may be killed by
one man in one season. . . . Otter, fisher, and marten, between ist May
and ist October. . . . Beaver protected until 1898. . . . Woodcock,
partridge, pheasant or ruffled grouse, prairie chicken or prairie hen, and
grouse of all kinds, mallard, plover and snipe, between 1st December and
ist September succeeding. . . . Wild goose or brant, wild duck, between ist May and ist September. . . . Mallard, teal or wood duck
between ist December and ist September.    .    .    .     Swans perpetually CLOSE  SEASONS  FOR  GAME AND  FISH.
75
protected and Mongolian, Chinese or English pheasants or quail of any
variety until ist September, 1901. . . . Insectivorous birds always protected, and pheasants for five years.
Fishing.—Brook, rainbow, and mountain trout, ist September to 15th
April. . . . Mackinaw or Lake trout, ist October to 15th January.
. . . Pike, pickerel, black, green, white, and Oswego bass, and maskinonge (or muskallonge), ist March to ist June. . . . Whitefish (in
inland lakes with dip nets), 8th December to ist November.
.*.     CflUHfiOfln.   1897-8.     .*.
*************■*##*#*#*#********■***#***###
MAY.
JUNE.
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JANUARY.
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APRIL.
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122131
.. AGENCIES.
Adelaide South Aus..D. & J. Fowler.
Amoy China. .Jardine, Matheson & Co.
..  ,  IL. D. Nathan & Co.
Auckland N. L. J, Thomas Cook & Son.
,-...) Huddart, Parker & Co. (Ltd.).
Ballarat Victoria -j Thomas Cook & Son-
Baltimore Md.. H. McMurtrie, Fr't and Pass. Agt., 203 East German St.
Bangkok Siam..Windsor & Co.
Batavia Java.. MacLaine, Watson & Co.
„ T   ,.   ) Thomas Cook & Son 13 Rampart Row.
Bombay India j EwaItt Latham & Co.
_ tj,       j H. J. Colvin, District Pass. Agent. ..197 Washington St.
Boston Mass. -j w Benson, City Passenger Agent... 197 Washington St.
Brisbane Qd..Burns, Philp & Co. (Ltd.), The British India Co.
Brockville Ont. j Ge^|gc^ f^*' } Cor* KinS St* and Court House Av*
Buffalo N. Y.. J. B. Roberts, Ticket Agent zi Exchange St.
( Thomas Cook & Son n Old Court House St.
Calcutta Indian Sydney Haywood, Eastern Trav. Agt.. .30 Dalhousie Sq.
{ Gillanders, Arbuthnot & Co.
Canton China. .Jardine, Matheson & Co.
Chemulpo Korea..Holmes, Ringer & Co.
Chicago ^^--X- Francis Lee, Gen'l Agt. Pass. Dept., 232 South Clark St.
r. /-    1      I Thomas Cook & Son (E. B. Creasey).
Colombo Ceylon, Bois Brothers.
Detroit Mich.. A. E. Edmonds, City Passenger Agent. .11 Fort St., West.
Duluth Minn..T. H. Larke, District Agent. .426 Spalding House Block.
Glasgow Scotland. .Archer Baker, European Traffic Agent, 67 St. Vincent St.
Halifax N. S..C. S. Philps, Ticket Agent .....126 Hollis St.
Hamilton Ont. .W. J. Grant, Commercial Agent, Cor. King and James Sts.
Hankow China. .Jardine, Matheson & Co.
Hobart Tasmania.. Huddart, Parker & Co. (Ltd.)—Thos. Cook & Son.
Hong Kong D. E. Brown, General Agent, China, Japan, etc.
Honolulu H. I. . Theo. H. Davies & Co. (Ltd.).
Kobe Japan.. Frazar & Co.
Liverpool Eng. .Archer Baker, European Traffic Agent 7 James St.
t t^       ( Archer Baker, European [ 67 & 68 King William St., E.C.
LoNDON EnS-\ Traffic Agent. jSc-Cockspu? St., S.W.
London Ont..T. R. Parker, licket Agt., 161 Dundas St.,cor. Richmond.
Malta Turnbull, Jr., & Somerville, Correspondents.
•./r  a       (Thomas Cook & Son.
Melbourne Aus. j Huddart) Parker & Co> (Ltd.).
TL/r »«••       j W. B. Chandler, Ticket Agent, ( Guaranty Building, 127
Minneapolis Minn, j Soo Line! ]        Third Street, §1
Montreal Que. .Wm. F. Egg, City Passenger Agent... .129 St. James St.
Nagasaki Japan. .Holme, Ringer & Co.
Napier N. Z..C. H. Cranby & Co.
New Whatcom Wash..F. A. Valentine... 1293 Dock St.
( E. V. Skinner j General Eastern Agent... .353 Broadway.
New York N. Y. •< Land and Emigration Office 1 Broadway.
( Everett Frazar, China and Japan Fr't Agt., 63-65 Wall St.
Niagara Falls N. Y. j PJIs|,ac^i^icket ASent Prospect House.
Ottawa. Ont. .J. E. Parker, City Passenger Agent 42 Sparks St.
Old Orchard Beach Me.. W. F. Fernald B. & M. Rd. Station.
(Thomas Cook & Son 1 Place de 1'Opera.
pAR]S France-! Hernu, Peron & Co., ( 95 Rue des Marais St. Martin and
  )      Ticket Agents.      | 61 Boulevard Haussmann.
(International sleeping Car Co 3 Place de 1'Opera.
Philadelphia Pa.. H. McMurtrie, F. & P. A., Cor. Third and Chestnut Sts.
Pittsburg Pa. .F. W. Salsbury 505 Ferguson Building.
Portland Me.. G. H. Thompson, Ticket Agt., Maine Central Rd. Union
Depot.
Portland Ore.. E. J. Coyle 146 Third St.
Port Townsend Wash. .J. R. Mason 106 Taylor St.
Quebec Que. .Geo. Duncan, Passenger Agent Opp. Post-Office.
Rockhampton Walker, Reid & Co. (Ltd.).
Sault Ste. Marie Mich..T. R. Harvey Steamship Wharf.
St. John N.B.^h rTi ^m§ E?TnS?r AfentAu H  ^
r, I W.H. C. Mackay, City Ticket Agent. ..Chubb s Corner.
ST* Paul Minn.   H* ^IXs-TinP^ fa* Robert St., Hotel Ryan.
San Francisco Cal i M. M. Stern, Dist. Fr't. and Pass. Agent, Chronicle Bldg.
 j Goodall, Perkins & Co 10 Market St.
Seattle Wash..E. W. MacGinnis Yesler Building, 609 Front St.
Shanghai China. .Jardine, Matheson & Co.
Sherbrooke Que..E. H. Crean, Ticket Agent 6 Commercial St.
Sydney A,«  I   Huddart, Parker & Co.,  j S?m!?,i>hSpACo* CLtd*:>*
S5YDNEY Aus* f        (Ltd.), 63 Pitt St.       1 ^hos. Cook & Son.
_ '   J (Oceanic S. S. Co.
I acoma Wash..W. R. Thompson, Fr't and Pass. Agent, 1023 Pacific Av.
Toronto Ont. .C. E. McPherson, Asst. Gen'l Pass. Agent, 1 KingSt., E.
Vancouver 5  c JG- McL. Brown, District Passenger Agent.
' j James Sclater, Ticket Agent.
Victoria B. C..6. L. Courtney, Freight and Pass. Agent, Government St.
Winnipeg Man. .W. M. McLeod. City Ticket Agent 471 Main St.
Yokohama Japan. .Wm. T. Payne, GenT Traffic Agent for Japan. .14 Bund. Canadian   Pacific  Railway Co.'s
TWIN-SCREW STEAMSHIPS.
ROYAL MAIL  ROUTE TO JAPAN AND CHINA.
"©mprtsss nf $,tbht,"  "fimpiMB of gapair,"  "impress of ffiljina,"
PORTS OF CALL :
VANCOUVER, VICTORIA, B. C, YOKOHAMA, KOBE, NAGASAKI, SHANGHAI,
AND HOMG KONG.
The C. P. R. Co.'s fast steamship service in the Pacific Ocean gives the shortest,
satest and best route between America and the Orient, and also forms an important link in
the popular Around the World trip. These Empress steamships have brought Japan
-within ten days of Vancouver. They have made the passage across the Pacific a pleasure
trip, and added additional attraction to the now fashionable trip to Japan.
In connection with the Canadian Pacific Railway's Transcontinental Line, they have
enabled the tourist from the Eastern States to allow himself one month in Japan out of a
sixty days   vacation.
The route from Vancouver, which avoids the unsettled weather of the horse latitudes,
is 300 miles shorter than any other trans-Pacific route, and Vancouver is several hundred
miles nearer to the Atlantic than any other Pacific port.
Special attention has been paid to strength and safety. The hulls, in addition to
having double bottoms extending their full length, are divided into numerous water-tight
compartments, thus rendering them practically unsinkable. The Empresses are the only
twin-screw steamships on the Pacific.
The cabins are large and roomy, and contain all the modern improvements ; many new
features being added. No expense has been spared in the luxurious fittings. In a word,
modern marine architecture has in these palaces excelled itself.
STEAMSHIPS LEAVE VANCOUVER,  B. C,  EVERY THREE WEEKS IN SUMMER AND
EVERY FOUR WEEKS  IN WINTER.
CANADIAN-AUSTRALIAN   LINE,
"$. ||T. £>. "llJioforar," " Marrimoo," aab " ^orangi."
VANCOUVER, B. C, VICTORIA, B. C,  HONOLULU, H. I., SUVA, FIJI, NEW
ZEALAND, AND SYDNEY, N. S. W.
SAILING EVERY  MONTH.
These  steamships  are  about  5000  tons   burden.     They are new and have every
modern appliance for safety and comfort, and they make the trip between Vancouver and
Sydney ..in twenty-one days.   '.
A SENSIBLE  ROAD.
The Canadian Pacific Railway is the Most Substantial and Perfectly Built Railway on
the Continent of America, and superbly equipped with the finest rolling stock modern skill
can produce. COACHES, DINING AND SLEEPING CARS are triumphs of luxurious
elegance, and excel in Stability and Beauty of Finish any in the.world-.
Tourists will find the New Route through Canada from the Atlantic to the Pacific
unapproached for magnificence and variety of scenery by any other line of travel. The
rugged wilderness of the North Shore of Lake Superior, the picturesque Lake of the Woods
Region, the Billowy Prairies of the Canadian Northwest, the stately grandeur of the
Rockies, the marvels of the Selkirks and Gold Range, and the wondrous beauty of the
Pacific Coast, are traversed by THE GREAT DUSTLESS ROUTE. Being entirely
controlled and managed by one company, the CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY offers
special advantages to transcontinental travellers that cannot be granted by any other line.
It is the Best, the Safest, the Fastest Route from Ocean to Ocean. The Company have
spared no expense in providing for the wants and comfort of their patrons, as their line
of Dining Cars and Mountain Hotels will at all times testify, being supplied with all that
the most fastidious can desire. Through the Mountains Observation Cars are run in the
Tourist Season. .,_   ss/w'A
TRANSCONTINENTAL SLEEPING CARS
are provided with Sofa Sections and Bathing Accommodation, and offer all the comfort
and convenience of first-class hotels.   They are specially constructed to admit of the,
scenery being viewed in all directions.
TICKETS AT RATES LOWER THAN BY ANY OTHER LINE
Can be purchased from any Agent in the UNITED STATES or CANADA.
For Sailing's, Rates, Berths, and Information, apply to
R. KERR, Traffic Manager, Lines West of Lake Superior, Winnipeg.
C. E. MCPHERSON, Asst. General Passenger Agent, 1 King Street East, Toronto.
H. J. COLVIN, District Passenger Agent, 197 Washington Street, Boston.
E. V. SKINNER, General Eastern Agent. 353 Broadway, New York.
W. R. CALLAWAY, General Passenger Agent Soo and South Shore Lines, Minneapolis.     j
w! S.'THORN, Assistant General Passenger Agent Soo and South Shore Lines, St. Paul, Minn.
I. F. LEE, General Agent Passenger Department, 232 South Clark Street, Chicago.
A. H. NOTMAN, District Passenger Agent, St. John, N. B.
G. McL. BROWN,  District Passenger Agent, Vancouver, B. C.
M. M. STERN, District Passenger Agent, Chronicle Building, San 1-rancisco, cal.
D. E. BROWN, General Agent China and Japan, Hong Kong.
HUDDART, PARKER & CO., Ltd., Sydney. Australia. ,r-„„. <;„.„
ARCHER BAKER, European Traffic Agent, 7 James Street, Liverpool, England ; 67 St. Vincent Street,
Glasgow! Scotland; 67 and 68 King William Street, London, E. C, and 30 Cockspur Street, London,
S. W., England. .   «»     .     ,
C. E. E. USSHER. Assistant General Passenger Agent, Montreal.
D. McNICOLL, Passenger Traffic Manager, Montreal. 

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