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Roads of adventure through the Canadian Rockies, Alaska and the evergreen playground Canadian Pacific Railway Company 1932

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Array : /,
CAN A       I A
:, :
FT C WHERE TO STAY
CANADIAN PACIFIC HOTELS IN THE ROCKIES
Banff Springs Hotel
Banff, Alberta
Altitude 4,625 feet
Chateau Lake Louise
Lake Louise, Alberta
Altitude 5,670 feet
Emerald Lake Chalet
Near Field, B.C.
Altitude 4,272 feet
Hotel Sicamous
Sicamous, B.C.
Altitude 1,146 feet
In the heart of Banff National Park. Alpine climbing, motoring and
drives on good roads, golf, bathing, hot sulphur springs, tennis, fishing,
boating and riding. Open summer months. Special weekly
and monthly rates. European plan throughout season. American
plan during June and September.
Facing an exquisite Alpine Lake in Banff National Park. Alpine,
climbing with Swiss guides, pony trips, swimming, drives or motoring,
boating, fishing.    Open summer months.    American plan.
Situated at the foot of Mount Burgess, in picturesque Yoho National
Park. Roads and trails to the Burgess Pass, Yoho Valley, etc. Boating
and fishing.   Open summer months.  American plan.
Junction for the orchard districts of the Okanagan Valley, and stopover
point for those who wish to see the Canyons by daylight. Excel'
lent trout fishing in Shuswap Lake.    Open all year.    American plan.
CHALET- BUNGALOW CAMPS REACHED BY CANADIAN PACIFIC
Castle Mountain
Altitude 5,600 feet
Radium Hot Springs
Altitude 3,456 feet
Mount Assiniboine
Altitude 7,200 feet
Moraine Lake
Altitude 6,190 feet
Lake O'Hara
Altitude 6,664 feet
Wapta
Altitude 5,190 feet
Yoho Valley
Altitude 5,000 feet
Hotel Vancouver
Vancouver, B.C.
Empress Hotel
Victoria, B.C.
By motor from either Banff or Lake Louise. Hiking, fishing, motoring,
mountain climbing.    Open summer months.
By motor (91 miles) from Banff or Lake Louise. Motoring, fishing,
climbing, swimming in hot radium pools.     Open summer months.
By trail from Banff. Overnight stop in half-way cabin. Camp is at
the foot of Mount Assiniboine (11,860 ft.).     Open summer months.
By motor from Lake Louise. Head of Valley of the Ten Peaks. Trout
fishing, pony trails, climbs, etc.    Open summer months.
By trail from Hector, B.C. Riding, mountain climbing, trips to Lake
McArthur and Lake Oesa, also to Abbot Pass.    Open summer months.
Near Hector Station. Excursions to Lake O'Hara, Yoho Valley, Sher-
brooke Lake, Kicking Horse Canyon, drives.    Open summer months.
By motor from Field or Lake Louise, in one of the loveliest valleys in the
Rockies. Takakkaw Falls, Summit Lake, Yoho Glacier, hikes, climbs,
pony trips.    Open summer months.
Canadian Pacific Hotels on the Pacific Coast
Largest hotel on the North Pacific Coast, overlooking the Strait of Georgia, and serving
equally the business man and the tourist. Golf, motoring, fishing, hunting, bathing,
steamer excursions.    Open all year.    European plan.
A luxurious hotel in Canada's Evergreen Playground, which by its equable climate has
become a favorite summer and winter resort. Motoring, yachting, fishing, shooting and
all-year golf.    Crystal Garden for swimming and music.   Open all year. European plan.
Hotel Palliser
Calgary, Alberta
Hotel Saskatchewan
Regina, Sask.
The Royal Alexandra
Winnipeg, Man.
Toronto, Ont.
Montreal, Que.
Quebec, Que.
McAdam, N.B.
St. Andrews, N.B.
Digby, N.S.
Kentville, N.S.
Yarmouth, N.S.
Canadian Pacific Hotels on the Prairies
A handsome hotel of metropolitan standard.   Suited equally to the business man or the
tourist to or from the Canadian Rockies.    Open all year.    European plan.
In the capital of this rich and prosperous province.    Golf and motoring.    Open all year,
European plan.
A popular hotel in the largest city of Western Canada, and the centre of Winnipeg's
social life.    Open all year.    European plan.
Canadian Pacific Hotels in Eastern Canada
The Royal York—The largest hotel in the British Empire.    Open all year.
Place Viger Hotel—A charming hotel in Canada's largest city.    Open all year.
Chateau Frontenac—A metropolitan hotel in the most historic city of North America.
Open all year.
McAdam Hotel—A commercial and sportsman' > hotel.    Open all year.
The Algonquin—The social centre of Canada's most fashionable seashore summer resort.
Open summer months.
The Pines—Nova Scotia's premier resort hotel.    Open summer months.
The New Cornwallis Inn—suited equally to the tourist and business man. Open allyear.
Lakeside Inn.—Designed in the bungalow style.  Open summer months.
Other Hotels and Chalet-Bungalow Camps Reached by Canadian Pacific
Agassiz, B.C Harrison Hot Springs Hotel Kenora, Ont Devil's Gap Camp
Penticton, B.C Hotel Incola Nipigon, Ont Nipigon River Camp
Cameron Lake, B.C Cameron Lake Chalet French River, Ont French River Camp odds
Ad ven tu re
Through the
Canadian   Rockies, Alaska
and the  Evergreen Playground
A CANADIAN  PACIFIC PUBLICATION
(PRINTED   IN   CANADA,    1932)
Photographs in this Booklet are copyright as follows:
© a.r.      Armstrong Roberts. © e.s.w.  Edith S. Watson.
© a.s.n.   Associated Screen News, Montreal. © f.n.      Frederick Niven, Nelson, b.c.
© b.h.      Byron Harmon, Banff.
CANADIAN
PACIFIC .■:fe"%iL
Mm
© A.S.N.
Past such rugged giants as Mt. Stephen run the Canadian Pacific
"Roads of Adventured    Mt.  Stephen,  10,485 feet in height,  is
named  after  George  Stephen,   later  Lord  Mount  Stephen, first
President of the Canadian Pacific Railway Company]
Page 2 ROADS OF ADVENTURE
:<| remember," says the patriarch,
I "when it took us ten days to go from
1 here to there. We had to go by
stage-coach all the way, and it was an
adventurous trip."
"I remember," says the old-timer,
"when the quickest way to the West
coast was round by the Horn. I
remember—the canoe, the old stern-
wheelers, the buggy-ride, the pony
trails; the lodging place by the crossroads and the Indians."
What an age of Romance, those
days of "I Remember" and before!
What thrills and adventures !
So has it ever been. And these present are so soon to be the days of "I
remember."
The vagabond is turned hitchhiker. Romance lies, not in the open
road, but along the hidden trails. In
quiet, secluded valleys. Along those
routes where one may yet be carefree
and the responsibility of getting there
is that of someone else. Along The
Roads of Adventure.
And there are such roads! Roads
which stretch from east to west,
through forest and wilderness, over
the plains and by the canyons of the
mountains. They are threaded with
steel. They link hamlet and village,
town and city, with ease and security
. . . they unfold and disclose their
beauties to you, in luxurious comfort.
They follow the way of the voyageur
and courier ... of the adventurer
and the pioneer: they follow a dream
of "westward to the east"—the vision
of a new nation, the hopes of an
emancipated people.
Go West this year! Take one of these
Roads of Adventure, whether your
destination be California, Alaska, the
Canadian Rockies or Canada's Evergreen Playground on the Pacific Coast.
For those who would make their
trip a vacation, one does not hesitate
to recommend Canadian Pacific.
Those who chose the route of the
first trans-continental railway must
have considered themselves on vacation too. They certainly did not
wander far from that which was beautiful in the east, and while the western
route, say from Calgary to Vancouver,
follows natural water courses, one
would give the engineer credit for an
eye for the spectacular! Nowhere in
the world, perhaps, does a railroad
provide for its patrons such tremendous scenic grandeurs as those along
the Canadian Pacific right-of-way.
But it is all a glorious route.
Whether one joins it at Quebec,
Montreal or Toronto, or Emerson,
Portal or Vancouver, it is a new and
delightful travel experience, because,
even if one were not interested in the
scenery and romance of the route,
Canadian Pacific service in itself
would render it so.
In travelling from the east one
may break the journey by sailing the
Inland Sea from Port McNicoll to
Fort William. This under the Canadian Pacific house flag too; but if
time is a factor, then one still has the
long visions of the Great Lakes. Wide
vistas of blues and greens, or perhaps
of gold and silver seas with rugged,
twisted islands looking for all the
world like pre-historic monsters wallowing there. Puffs of white clouds
race with the train as it glides through
the cuts and gorges and rumbles over
the bridge. For a thousand miles,
virgin forest comes down to meet
civilization at the fence along the way.
And for every mile a lake, each
set like a jewel, reflecting from unruffled facets towers and ridges of
pine and spruce and poplar. By
a boomed stream a little sawmill
puffs importantly as it sucks up logs
and spits the planks and sawdust to
the rear.
Look back . . . there's romance
without imagining in those isolated
little log shacks in the clearing. They
are peopled, all of them. And what
do these people do all day ? Are they
Indians ?
Maybe — Maybe white people.
Maybe men like you and me who
wanted to get away for awhile and
stayed! They fish and trap and haul
logs. Mostly they trap and fish.
Sometimes they guide. Because,
while the steel highway is half a
century old, this is still a frontier. We
are still in the midst of Canada's vast
undeveloped natural resources. Did
I say trap and fish? Perhaps they
look for gold.
Little red houses, neat and tidy.
These every few miles for the section
men who wave, hesitate long enough
to envy us, then go back to their task
of keeping the way safe.
It's a rugged country. The Laurentian rocks don't dip under the prairie
until we approach Winnipeg. The
prairies are an adventure too. Here
the buffalo roamed at will . . . now
a   cowman   rides   along   the   fence.
Black earth is furrowed to a contrast with the waving green or gold.
Little towns with horses, Fords and
Packards. The Union Jack waving over the school-house. This is
Canada.
And so on to the West. Calgary,
Banff. Banff is a place one should
stop at. But not if you don't intend
to stay. Banff has her feet planted
firmly in the mountains. She is more
Scotch than Indian. And very beautiful. And a very gay seducer. But
if you don't want to stop, or if you
do, there is a good description of her
in this very book.
Climb back on board. The oil-
burning engine has a long pull
ahead. Up and up and up. Past
Lake Louise Station, past Hector and
the "Great Divide." Mountains rear
themselves on either side, go straight
up with wisps of cloud hanging from
their precipitous sides below the
tops to intrigue one. Grey mountains,
reddish mountains, green, and farther
off, the blue ones. Silver foam cascades down to the open road and
roars and tumbles through the gorge
the lip of which our roadbed is.
Across the gorge and winding up the
mountain's side, a highway.
There is a thousand miles of it
almost. One sits in the observation
car or in the diner with the big
windows. Is this not an adventure?
Is it not a thrill? Brave men they
were who trusted themselves to these
rivers, not knowing what was round
the bend. We do know what is round
the bend, a level road, a view from
a mountain side over deep wide
valleys and other mountain tops.
Snow-capped peaks taking color from
the sun. A moose in a meadow. A
bear . . . no, by golly, a tunnel, but
only a little one.
Off at Vancouver, because this train
stops there.
I like the run into Vancouver. Along
the wide river with its little ships and
its shipping. The verdure is lush,
almost tropical. No other way to
describe it. And the mills and the
houses have all red roofs.
So we separate from our travelling
companions and go to California, to
the Orient, to Alaska. Perhaps we
stay here for our golf or our fishing or
holiday makings. We'll go to Victoria, of course, but . . .
Why not go back over the same
Road of Adventure?
Page 3 Wmm
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Z,a£e Louise—Pear/ 0/ //ze Rockies
© A.S.N.
WHEN ITS SUMMER in the ROCKIES
\ud" Harkness, ex-cowhand of
the Texas Panhandle but now
for many years a Rocky Mountain guide, sat dreamily humming a
tune in his single room at Old Man
Logan's house in Banff. Chaps, riding-boots, sombrero and quirt lay
piled on the only chair the room
boasted—Bud sitting idly on the bed.
A "lonely cuss" the other boys
thought him. . . sometimes a bit queer.
Didn't drink, smoked of course, but
preferred your room to your company.
Queer!
So Bud sat alone, smoking. Before
him on the bed lay a carefully hoarded
pile of photographs, sent by appreciative people he had guided. Hence
Bud's dreams. Strange folks these
who came from the east, he ruminated.
All after something different. Came
from all over, too ... all headed for
Banff and the mountains around it.
Why did they come, anyhow ?
Take this Carl Rungius fellow—the
artist. He came to paint. On many
occasions Bud had ridden with him to
the beauty spots of the mountains and
sat in silent admiration as the vast
panorama of mountain peak or glistening glacier was translated to canvas.
In their mutual appreciation of the
mountains Bud and the celebrated
artist had a common, if tacit, interest.
They both knew the mountains and
lakes—under every condition . . . the
Cascade Range, Assiniboine, and the
Valley of the Ten Peaks, Emerald
Lake, Lake Louise and O'Hara.
Soon Mr. Rungius would be coming
out again, Bud hoped. If he did, he
would come to paint.
As Bud's fingers idly turned his
photographs over, another caught his
attention. A perfect photograph of a
Rocky Mountain sheep, taken by
Dan McCowan. Dan didn't paint,
Bud would have told you, though he
photographed. Flowers and animal
life were his specialty and Dan knew
them all by name. Bud liked talking
to Dan and he noticed that so-called
naturalists from the east liked the
same thing.    For he could tell you, in
his broad Scotch accent, all about
such flowers as the yellow arnica and
the immortelle, or about birds and
beasts. Yes ... Bud guessed them
easterners must be pretty appreciative of what Dan called ' 'these manifestations of nature," because when
Dan gave lectures up at Banff Springs
Hotel the hall was packed. (And
Dan gave them twice a week.)
Women had played little part in
Bud's life—but it was with something
akin to reverence he picked out a
photograph of a girl in riding habit.
Reg'lar thoroughbred she was. Came
out every year with her old man to
Banff Springs but liked the rough life
of the trail. The old man was
"bugs" on fishing—had fished all
over, in fact—Boom Lake, Minnewanka, the Altrude River and Lakes,
to mention but a few. Yes, it was the
fishing the old man liked, but his
daughter had other interests. She
had once bought Bud a neckerchief
because she had done the Banff Springs
Golf Course in 91.    (The connection
Page 4 from one of the universities in the
east and that he was intensely interested in "water"!
Bud had first met him at the
sulphur swimming pool of Banff
Springs Hotel. Before the railroad
came Bud knew the Indians had come
to bathe in these sulphur waters believing they had healing powers.
Casually he mentioned this to the
easterner, who straightway launched
into a long dissertation on their
therapeutic values and composition—
none of which Bud understood. Then
Bud had taken him up to the Government Swimming Pool at Banff and
more water tests had followed. Next
they had gone to Radium Hot
Springs and the same procedure followed. Months later Bud had received a clipping from a medical journal
giving figures and charts of the composition of the water—all of which seemed
merely to show that the Indians were
right.  That, he guessed, was that.
Yes, come to think of it, he soliloquized, you had darned nearly everything at Banff—horses, trails, fishing,
swimming, golf, tennis, and the finest
in the world. 'Course he would like
to see the east. But what the heck!
Time to turn in . . . And the photographs were carefully stowed away.
A   "million dollar"  plunge at Banff and the
$100,000 Club House ©a.s.n.
was still a mystery to him.) And he
had seen her play tennis at Chateau
Lake Louise.
She climbed, too, and was a member of "them thar Alpine Club of
Canada." But Bud was secretly a
little jealous of her friendship with the
Alpine guides at Chateau Lake Louise.
He couldn't figure why any sensible
young woman should want to "rope
up" mountains just because they
were 12,000 feet high. But she did it,
so he guessed it was all right.
Another picture of her came to his
mind. The time he had seen her up at
Banff Springs Hotel on the terrace at
night. He had been doing an errand
for Jim Brewster when he met her,
surrounded by a bunch of tenderfeet
in boiled shirts. Bud's unimaginative
soul still cherished that picture—the
dark mass of the majestic hotel, the
Bow Valley bathed in moonlight, the
dance music drifting from the ballroom, the vague forms of other immaculate couples strolling on the flower-
blown terrace, and in the midst his idol.
He had often felt like asking her
about another man who came out and
whose picture he now sought—Bud's
"mystery man."    Bud knew he was
Page 5 For scenes like these Swiss guides forsook the Alps
© A.S.N.
FIFTY   SWITZERLANDS
On the north side of the Canadian Pacific transcontinental track near Golden lies
a quaint little village, picturesquely situated on the slopes of a mountain. Its
name is Edelweiss and its inhabitants are Swiss—Swiss Alpine guides who have
transported their "household gods" from their own beloved mountains to the
Canadian Rockies.
The existence of Edelweiss is significant, more significant to the average man than
forbidding governmental blue books which tell him that the Canadian Rockies comprise five chief ranges; that there are 630 peaks over 6,000 feet in height; that 308
of these are between 7,000 feet and 10,000 feet; 161 between 10,000 feet and 12,000
and four over 12,000 feet.
Page 6 % I i
The Great Divide
Edelweiss is significant. That there
exists an Edelweiss is proof positive
that there are peaks in the vicinity of
no mean altitude to be climbed—and
the description of the Canadian Rockies by a celebrated Alpinist as "fifty
Switzerlands in one" is more significant than the whole output of statistical departments for a year—or a
decade.
Not that climbing is the chief activity in the Canadian Rockies. The
Alpinist already referred to was trying
to give an impression of the majesty
of that vast sea of mountains which
comprise the Canadian Rockies and
"fifty Switzerlands in one" was the
most majestic thing his mind could
comprehend.
Fifty Switzerlands in one! A mountainous expanse of towering height
and penetrating depth, of glistening
glacier and lowering canyon, threaded
through with winding streams or
rushing torrents and studded with
seagreen lakes which hold the mirror
up to majestic nature. Fifty Switzerlands in one!
Half a century ago the Rockies
constituted an almost impenetrable
barrier between the Prairies and the
Pacific coast. To the white man the
region was a closed book—a terra incognita whose secrets only the red
man had penetrated. Then came the
pioneers in search of a path for the
projected Canadian Pacific transcontinental railway line. They entered
the foothills of the Rockies at Calgary
and climbed steadily till they came to
the Great Divide, the very backbone
of the continent. There they saw, as
you will see to day, a stream divide
into rivulets one of which found its
way to the Atlantic and the other to
the Pacific.
From the Great Divide they descended and explored the Kicking
Horse Pass, till that time nameless.
A rushing torrent foamed through a
narrow gorge. Precipitous pine-clad
slopes rose on either side . . . the road
through the mountains! In the footsteps of the pioneers the construction
gangs followed. The steel was laid
and the region opened—fifty Switzerlands in one for man's enjoyment.
No easy task was it to select the
sites for the hotels and chalet-bungalow camps which now dot this vast
playground. For the choice of superb
locations is so great. But Banff was
chosen, and Lake Louise and Emerald
Lake, the hostelries constructed being
in keeping with the surroundings.
Then came the chalet-bungalow
camps, comprising a central clubhouse
or chalet surrounded with trim little
bungalows of timber construction.
Thanks to this diversity of accommodation, people of all tastes (and all
purses) can visit this vast mountain
playground and find whatever meets
their physical or spiritual need.
And the natural activities in this
region are so numerous and so varied.
Lakes and streams abound with fish.
Hunting is forbidden in the national
parks, but there are unrivalled opportunities for big game in territory to the
north and south of Banff and Lake
Louise outside the park limits. Hikers,
trail riders and climbers return year
by year, artists and photographers
rarely depart.
To these natural activities others
more sophisticated, perhaps, have
been added. At Banff one of the
finest golf courses on the continent
has been laid out in the valley of the
Bow. At Banff, too, and Chateau
Lake Louise great swimming pools
have been constructed which the
.Romans might have envied. Tennis
facilities have been provided. Superb
motoring roads have been built
through this vast playground which
for their scenic loveliness and grandeur are open challenges to comparison.
These and more than these for your
enjoyment in this Fifty Switzerlands
in One.
Page 7
Mount
Assiniboine
© A.R. ALPINISTS, INDIANS and COWBOYS
On the saddle between Mounts President and Vice-President
© A.S.N.
Stony Indian Braves
©A.S.N.
MOUNTAIN CLIMBING
The Canadian Rockies present to
the mountain-climber one of the most
extensive and interesting fields of any
easily accessible ranges of the world.
For real alpine climbing the services
of a skilled mountain guide, preferably
one of the Swiss guides attached to
the Canadian Pacific Hotels, are indispensable, and such may be obtained
by application at the Hotel Office.
There are a number of fine ascents in
the vicinity of Banff, some of which
are visible from the verandas of the
Hotel, such as Mount Peechee, Inglismaldie, Edith, Rundle, Three Sisters,
Pilot, Brett, Cascade, Aylmer and
Assiniboine. Some of these climbs are
well within the reach of any person of
good physique, while a few, such as
Mount Aylmer, Mount Edith and
Mount Assiniboine are much more
difficult peaks.
THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA
The Alpine Club of Canada, with
headquarters established in a singularly handsome Club House at Banff,
holds a Camp each year in the Canadian Rockies, and welcomes all who
have the ambition to climb.
INDIAN WEEK
Indian Week at Banff is one of the
most colorful spectacles on the North
American continent. Between three
and four hundred Stony Indians come
from the Morley reserve, forty miles
east of Banff, for their tribal sports.
Each morning they have a parade in
which the majority of the Indians
take part. The tribe is all mounted,
and the costumes of both men and
women are creations of white buckskin, bead work and ermine, their color
schemes being exceedingly wonderful.
THE CALGARY STAMPEDE
^ Alberta, always a country of considerable stock-raising interests, is
still one of the principal ranching sections of the West; and in the "Stampede" held at Calgary the glories of
the Old West are revived annually in
a week's carnival of frontier sports and
contests. The Calgary Stampede has
now become a famous frontier-day
celebration, and contestants come
from all parts of the continent. Cowboys, Indians, Mounted Policemen,
Old Timers, are all to be seen in this
Western epic. It is held during the
second week of July, and visitors to
Banff should stop off at Calgary and
participate.
"Ride Jim,
cowboy! "
Page 8 ©  A.S.N.
'Holing out on the 17th."    To suit all types of golfers who come to
Banff, there are three tees for each hole, providing three courses—
long, medium and short.
Page 9 y"
...
' Myyim
©A.S.N.
"On the 18th."    When Stanley Thompson designed this course, he
provided the maximum in scenic as well as golf thrills.
Page 10 GOLF AT BANFF
Memories can provide many pleasant avenues of escape from the
crowded present. With all of us,
there are certain memories that are
recalled time and again in the sure
knowledge that they will charm the
mind back into a sense of pleasure and
well-being. For myself, I turn most
often to my recollections of the Canadian Rockies, to Banff, and to Banff's
spectacular golf course. Actually, I
played filthily, and Bill Thomson, the
veteran professional there, used to
warn me not to cause any more
damage to the rugged face and crest of
Rundle Mountain that towered sheer
above the links. But whether I
sliced my drives far into the blue in
the general direction of Rundle, or
pulled them from the first tee down
into the Spray River rushing below, I
remember it all without a trace of
bitterness. Time has quickly caused
me to forget hooking and topping and
slicing and divoting and bunkering; but
time has made no attempt to change or
neglect my memories of the spectacular
scenery that elbowed its way to the
very edge of the course and provided a
mental hazard of the most unique kind.
But under any circumstances time
could scarcely affect the memory of
such scenery, no matter how casual
one's acquaintance with it might
have been. At the apex of the valleys of the Bow and Spray Rivers, huge
and yet incomparably insignificant
beside the great mountains that group
about it, is the Banff Springs Hotel,
one of the most outstanding of the
system of the Canadian Pacific Railway. Before it extends one of the
most remarkable views of the world:
Mount Rundle abruptly on the right,
little Tunnel in the middle distance
on the left, and to the left, beyond it,
the vast rugged shape of Cascade
Mountain; and between Rundle and
Tunnel the united Spray and Bow
Rivers glitter through the trees; and
far beyond, encompassing the panorama like a huge back drop, the
northern wall of the Bow Valley with
Mountains Inglismaldie, Girouard and
Mount Peechee ranged along its crest.
But names mean little to the casual
reader, though they have a host of
associations for those familiar with
them, and it is needless to recall them
individually and by name. Indeed
before the mind's eye they range, the
mountains of memory, in no regular
form or procession. At one instant
one may be riding quietly on Tunnel
Mountain rising from the floor of the
Bow Valley beside the town of Banff
with the sound of a tiny carillon rising
sweetly to the ears, and the next
instant one may be far away on the
golf course below at the foot of
Rundle attempting a careful shot
across the inevitable Devil's Cauldron. Through one's memories one
can move with incredible ease and in
a moment be a thousand feet above
the golf links and looking down upon
them from the slope of Sulphur,
marking how infinitesimal appears the
handiwork of man, and how puny are
the sweeps of soft green fairway
beside the great stretches of valley
and the towering walls of rock that
rise dramatically above them.
These cliffs constitute a charming
counter attraction to golf, indeed, and
make it very hard to keep the head
down and the eye on the ball during
the first few rounds of the eighteen
holes. For me the cliffs and the
caddies were hazards, for the latter
were mostly Indians from the Stony
Reserve nearby, and I was in constant
fear of their becoming disgusted with
my play and scalping me on the spot.
But they always exercised great
stoicism and despite great provocation left me untouched.
There has been some brilliant golf
on the Banff links, and many great
players have played and will play
there. They find StanleyThompson's
bunkering of the course clever and
deceptive, and they find the natural
water hazards, provided by the Spray
and Bow Rivers, and by waters cupped at the base of Rundle, demanding
of the greatest care and concentration;
but their pleasure is equalled by the
duffers. The latter beat a longer and
more leisurely course from hole to
hole, pause to watch a group of Mule
Deer bounce indolently off into the
bush, and wait to hear the green-
keeper curse the deer and the bears
and all four-footed friends of the devil
who dare to place a hoof or a paw on
his immaculate swards.
And that's why it's pleasant to
remember golfing at Banff—there's
not only golfing to recall but an
atmosphere found nowhere else in the
golfing world.
Page 11
The Devil's
Cauldron
© A.S.N. Sand-trapped at the 1st
BANFF SPRINGS HOTEL
Banff Springs Hotel was built on
the curve of a mountain plateau,
a sort of verandah of the mountains, overlooking the meeting of two
rivers and surrounded by tremendous
peaks and ranges of the Rockies. And
its every window frames a picture.
Of these pictures, Fairholme Lounge
has perhaps the best of it, with the
long valley of the Bow stretching its
green length between two sentinel
mountains, down to the utterly magnificent barrier of the Fairholme
Range.    This   spacious   room    is   a
favorite meeting place any time of the
day, but especially at the tea hour
when guests foregather at little tables
by the big windows or around the fireplace and listen to the music of a
string quartette. Or perhaps it's at
its best while you're waiting for your
partner at dinner, when the rays of
the setting sun work miracles on the
snow caps of the mountains beyond
the valley.
The same view greets the returning
sportsmen who favour the Garden
Lounge.    Here stone-flagged floor, a
long vista of oaken chairs, refectory
tables and benches, and a very cavern
of a fireplace all lend a monastic air
that is peculiarly grateful to the
golfers and the anglers. Still another
view of the famed Bow Valley and its
mountains, by the way, is glimpsed
from the wide doors of the tavern that
opens its cool, flag-stoned depth on to
the sunshine of the lower terrace.
The sun-room mezzanine, from the
aloof seclusion of its fern-decked
railing, presents usually such an interesting indoor panorama that the
glorious outdoor scene is for the time
forgotten. Below, in the main foyer,
the colorful stream of new arrivals
mingles with the laughing hub-bub
of guests who are calling at the mail
desk, meeting returning riders, hobnobbing with the trim-uniformed
"Mounties" or discussing news of the
trails with a tall figure in chaps and
spurs and ten-gallon hat.
Mount Stephen Hall looks out
through mullioned windows upon the
unforgettable picture of Mount Rundle, rising to a crest like a gigantic,
frozen wave from some vast ocean of
stone. The Hall itself, the main
salon of the Hotel, is built on princely
lines in the Scottish baronial fashion.
The floor, beneath the Oriental rugs,
is paved with blocks of satin-smooth
stone, from which along one side rise
the great, carved pillars to support the
cathedral proportions of the roof.
Beyond the pillars is a cloistered corridor over which a wide and stately
balcony offers the most charming sitting-out places in the world. The
furniture of Mount Stephen Hall is the
ancient carved oak of the Stuart period, and the panellings of the anterooms, leading off through stone
arches, are likewise of oak, nobly
carved. Banff has not been called
"baronial" idly. The magnificent
breadth and space of its surroundings
have inspired a hotel where space and
privacy are taken as the first requisites to gracious living.
Beyond Mount Stephen Hall we
find the celebrated Oak Room and the
billiard room. And a broad, curving
stairway of stone rises to the mezzanine, to the Angus Room, the Strathcona Room, a wide, luxuriously furnished foyer and the great bronze
doors of the Alhambra dining room.
At the opposite end of the hotel is
the ball-room, with cool, quiet corners for the daytime, and glamour and
revelry by night. From it opens out
the conservatory with its banks of
flowers, its intriguing splash of waters
in the fountain and the inviting
wicker furniture. By day the view
shows the whole wide circle of the
mountains and the music is the muted
thunders of the Bow Falls; but in the
evening the eye turns towards the glow-
Page 12 ing life and gayety ol the ball-room.
Indeed, night finds festivity at
Banff—orchestra in the ball-room,
bridge tables in Fairholme Lounge,
perhaps a concert or a nature lecture
in Mount Stephen Hall, the merry
click of the cues in the billiard room,
the steady "ping" of balls at the ping-
pong table in the Garden Lounge—or
for the guest of quieter temperament,
there are the other lounges, the Curio
Hall and the seclusion of the library.
But first impressions are, after all,
more important than any others. So
let us arrive by train and have a first
glimpse of Banff.
We may take the station bus from
the train to the hotel, or a taxi—and
not the dowdy, hard-seated vehicle of
our city acquaintance, but a smart and
luxurious Packard. Three minutes
through the town brings us swinging
up the paved avenue cut from the tall
slender jack-pines, and then, between
the thinning trees ahead, comes the
first glimpse of the vast bulk, the
lordly, high-peaked roofs and the
wide park and tennis courts of Banff
Springs Hotel. Here is the space, the
leisure and the luxury for a holiday.
Time presses on no one but the
departing guest, and space is measured
in miles in every direction including
upwards.
The air is like wine that quickens
our senses and brightens our eyes as
we flash past the long stretch of the
hotel and swing around the farther
tower into a pebbled courtyard, buttressed and terraced on its plateau
overlooking the Bow River and the
smooth green valley that lies between
the abrupt heights of two mountains.
The wide portico of the hotel spreads
hospitably beneath its flower-laden
roof, giving promise of the cool depth
of the foyer, like the entrance hall of a
castle. The Japanese bell boys come
running down the broad steps and
with them comes the beginning, of
your smooth, perfect service.
Even if you are no devotee of
energy yourself, it is pleasant to see
the eager young things in riding
breeches at breakfast-time. As you
discuss your bacon and coffee, your
berries and cream and the hot
brioche and crescent rolls that make
breakfast a festive occasion, a slight
stir at the sunny doorway lifts your
eyes. Here are the early riders who
have been chasing the sunrise over the
mountains, coming in in twos and
threes, flushed and laughing and very
much alive. The sight of them may
make you a bit guilty for your luxurious drowsing in bed, but after all,
this mountain air is a great prescription for sleep. So conscience satisfied, you settle back to the attentions
of your thoughtful waiter—for this is
out West, where men are men and
The morning ride for young or old
breakfast is apt to be a Real Meal.
After breakfast, before your plans
for the day, I know of nothing more
delightful than a stroll on the Garden
terrace, around the fountain and along
the stone-flagged walks. There will
be one or two artists sketching here,
for the view is superb. The wide,
tumbling Falls of the Bow make a
gentle music in the air and all is
peace and content.
Like   everything   truly   charming,
life at Banff Springs Hotel is really
very simple. It's a question of what
you want to do and when you want to
do it. There's the riding, the motoring, the golf on the finest mountain
course in America, the boating up the
Bow or shadow-haunted little Vermilion River; or there's the swimming in the two pools, outdoor and
indoor, fed by the natural mineral
springs from which Banff Springs
Hotel takes its name.
Page 13 Takakkaw Falls in Yoho Valley
MOTORING A MILE HIGH
The motor roads through the
mountains run like wide, smooth
ribbons, stretching across Alpine
meadows, along vast, shadowy canyons and over famous passes. From
Banff there are short morning or
afternoon runs, and longer trips as
well which take you through the
three parks—Yoho, Kootenay and
Banff—and down the Kicking Horse
or the Windermere Highways to the
Columbia River.
You may choose one of the fine
open touring cars with smart chauffeurs, or the excellent sight-seeing
busses that make regular schedule
runs. The Automobile Agent has
an office in the Banff Springs Hotel
and will be glad to help you plan any
trips. All rates are according to a
Government tariff.
LAKE MINNEWANKA
A short trip and a delightful one if
you have only a day or so at Banff is to
Page 14
Lake Minnewanka, which the Indians
called Spirit Water. From the hotel
the route lies along the picturesque
road by Stony, Squaw and Cascade
Mountains and past the buffalo park.
Minnewanka itself is like a narrow
valley of water fourteen miles long,
curving between Mount Aylmer and
Mount Inglismaldie.
TO JOHNSTON CANYON AND
LAKE LOUISE
The highway to Lake Louise, 42
miles along the Bow River Valley,
offers a continually unfolding panorama. As on all the mountain roads,
the great peaks rise row on row on
either side and your chauffeur stops
to point out the landmarks. He
knows, too, where the mountain sheep
and deer may be seen, and where the
beaver dams are.
About sixteen miles westward on
this   highway   is   Johnston   Canyon,
where a series of waterfalls in a setting
of pine trees and wild flowers offers a
delightful walk up to the source. A
picnic may be made up the canyon or
lunch taken at the nearby Tea House.
Past Johnston Canyon the road
continues, reaching its most imposing
point at Castle Mountain, a giant
fortress three miles long. Here we
may turn west on the famous Banff-
Windermere Highway, or keep on
towards Lake Louise, Kicking Horse
Pass and Yoho Park.
TO MORAINE LAKE
From Lake Louise, a nine-mile side
trip brings you to Moraine Lake,
where the Ten Peaks (all over 10,000
feet high) stand in a giant semi-circle
behind the sapphire lake. Here a
Chalet-Bungalow Camp offers you
hospitality and splendid fishing for
cut-throat trout in Consolation Lake.
YOHO VALLEY AND
EMERALD LAKE
Leading on, the Lake Louise road
continues to the Kicking Horse Pass
and into Yoho Valley. The Highway
now follows the Kicking Horse River
through its canyon down to Golden
on the Columbia River; but this
region is so beautiful that one must
take the two side-trips to Emerald
Lake and the Yoho Valley.
The name "Yoho" comes from the
Indian expression of amazement at
the sight of Takakkaw, a feathery
waterfall of a thousand feet and more
floating down the face of the sheer
rock. The Chalet-Bungalow Camp
here is delightful and motorists are
advised to stay over a night.
The short branch of the highway
that farther on leads in to Emerald
Lake is an avenue cut from the cool
green depths of the forest, with the
gleam of snow-peaks in the distance.
Emerald Lake Chalet, with its cluster
of log cabins, lies at the end of this
road on the shores of the lake among
the mountains which surround it with
a sky-line of surpassing grandeur.
THE "MOTOR DETOUR"
One of the finest of the organized
automobile excursions is the "Motor
Detour" between Banff and Golden.
After seeing Banff, the road through
the mountains is taken to Lake Louise,
where you have dinner and spend the
night at the Chateau. The trip then
continues to the Great Divide, Kicking Horse Pass, Yoho Valley, Emerald
Lake and down the Kicking Horse
Canyon to Golden. The trip may be
made in 24 hours, but two or three
days may be spent on the Detour
since stop-off privileges are allowed en
Iron Gates—Banff-Windermere Road
route. The Detour may also be started
from Golden.
THE BANFF-WINDERMERE ROAD
Here is a trip worthy of your attention! The motors turn from the
Banff-Lake Louise Highway at Castle
Mountain and ascend to the summit
of Vermilion Pass (5,264). Here we
enter Kootenay Park and follow the
windings of the Vermilion River
until, through the celebrated Sinclair
Pass, we gain the mighty Columbia
and the shores of Lake Windermere.
On our way there are Chalet-Bungalow Camps at Castle Mountain and
Radium Hot Springs, both placed at
strategic points of beauty and making
ideal stop-overs if desired. One of the
favorite motor trips from Banff is to
Castle Mountain Camp for lunch or
dinner, returning in the sunset hours
or by moonlight.
This road to Windermere forms
part of the Circle Road of 600 miles
that crosses the summit of the Rockies
and links Calgary, Banff, Windermere, Cranbrook and Macleod. This
Circle Road is in turn linked at the
Near
Sinclair Canyon
International Boundary with the Columbia Highway out of Portland,
Oregon, and the grand tour of the
Yosemite, Grand Canyon and Yellowstone Parks.
From Lake Windermere excursions
can be made up Toby Creek and Horse
Thief Creek to the great ice fields of
the Selkirks, notably the Lake of the
Hanging Glaciers, before one continues along the Columbia Highway
to Golden.
THE LARIAT TRAIL
A very fine excursion, called "The
Lariat Trail," occupying three days,
leaves Banff twice a week to embrace
three national parks. Leaving Banff,
it proceeds to Castle Mountain, turns
south along the Banff-Windermere
Road as far as Radium Hot Springs
(where the first night is spent), thence
follows the Columbia River Highway
to Golden and east along the Kicking
Horse Canyon to Emerald Lake
(second night). The third day takes
in Yoho Valley, Wapta Lake, the
Great Divide, Lake Louise and back
to Banff.
Page 15 -•mmm*
Iceland poppies on the margin of Lake Louise
LOVELY LAKE LOUISE
DAWN  AT LAKE LOUISE
It is dawn at Lake Louise!
Dawn!
The trees all tremble in ecstasy,
Whispering to each other of the day to be.
It is still,
So still, on the opal lake.
The cold, proud glacier's waiting to take
A kiss from her lover,
The Morning Sun.
Timid deer
Appear
One by one ;
An Indian paint-brush, flaming red,
Slowly lifts it drowsy head.
A tiny bluebird, fluttering by :
An azure speck from out the sky I
Peace,
Passing all understanding,
Permeates the air...
Dawn,
At Lake Louise:
A prayer I
— RENE KENNEDY
Page 16 The first view of Lake Louise is unforgettable, as are only a few of
our human memories. This lake,
a mile and a half long and half a mile
wide, oval in shape, tapering at the
farther end towards the great glacier
which is its source—this one scene
from the pebbled terrace of the Chateau fills the eye completely and perfectly. Here is one tremendous panorama—a broad sheen of lake, calm,
serene and unruffled as is all perfection; circled with mountains that rise
from the waters like the sheltering
walls of Eden.
But it is the colour of the lake that
fascinates the eye and ravishes the
senses. In the early dawn it is a true,
self-effacing mirror, reflecting the vast
pyramid of snow and glacier at its
farther end with such faithfulness that
a photograph will show two perfect
images with bases touching at the
shore-line. And then as the sun
climbs up over Saddleback Mountain,
Louise takes on her own royal colours
—that divine blue which holds the
fire of iridescent green just below the
surface—the colour of Hera's peacocks. The eye, wearied with the
smoke of cities and the dull business of
living, is unprepared for the scene, so
that we must look and look before we
can believe that this old world is still
so beautiful. And all the while, the air,
fresh from heaven in this altitude, seems
to sparkle by itself and to become
visible where the sunshine is hitting
the waters in dancing points of light.
As we walk down the long, broad
terraces from the Chateau, between
descending banks of white and orange
and sun-coloured poppies, the rest of
the world falls away, and a strange
feeling of freshness, of something untouched and utterly lovely, comes to
us. And then, from behind the
fringe of trees, out to our right around
the margin of the lake, comes a clatter
of hoofs and breathless young laughter
Chateau
Page 17 Lake Louise
Swimming Pool-
Lake Louise
as a party of riders on their mountain
ponies swing into view across the trail
at the foot of the wide lawns, until
each rider stands out in silhouette
against the shining waters of the lake.
And so we came to Lake Louise.
After the activities of Banff we had
thought to rest here, and so we might
have if we had been tired—but the
first morning revealed such interesting bustle among the horsemen at the
corral, the guides in their rustic Swiss
chalet and the guests themselves,
that we too caught the excitement and
began making plans. The lake itself
is nearly six thousand feet above sea
level, so that when you start out on
the trail, either to walk or to ride, you
are already well up among the peaks,
or at least at no heart-breaking distance from them.
The temptation at Lake Louise is
to dally over these short trails that
make such easy walks, because they
have all the glamour and scenic effect
of mountaineering with only the
effort of strolling. But beyond the
horizon of the piled-up half-circle of
mountains are other scenes and adventures that none but the dullest
would overlook. Have you heard of
Paradise Valley with its carpeting of
anemones and asters secured from
the world by two long walls of mountains;   of   Lake   O'Hara,   so   utterly
beautiful and wistful that it could only
have an Irish name; of the Valley of
the Ten Peaks and of the twin Consolation Lakes where the rainbow
trout practically beg for bait ? These
are motor-rides, hikes or trail-rides
for a day—days that stand out afterwards for the sense of adventure, the
siren sound of falling waters and the
strangely elusive quality we call ' 'joy
of living." And if you should fall in
love with these unsophisticated spots
and decide to forsake Louise for one
of her sylvan cousins, there are chalets
and chalet-bungalow camps beside
these lakes where you may live the
simple life to perfection with good
beds, good food and goodly company.
The ponies are an open sesame to
the mountains and to the perfect
outdoor life that makes a proper
holiday. And for the outdoor life
Lake Louise is a perfect setting. If
you prefer motoring, there are roads
to nearly every one of the celebrated
beauty spots, and daily services of
both private cars and sight-seeing
busses. And under no circumstances
should we forget the canoes on Lake
Louise itself, the tennis courts, the
swimming pool in its setting of flower
gardens and the outdoor sports. Life
is as full and as energetic as we please
around this magnificent modern Chateau in its mountain setting.
- Supposing we are just average
pleasure-seekers, burning with no
deathless desire to scale the mighty
peaks, but only to enjoy ourselves as
much as possible with no more effort
than we feel like making at the moment. In that case, there's no place
in the mountains where we'll have a
better time than Lake Louise. While
our more energetic companions are
talking over plans with their Swiss
guides, inspecting saddle girths and
adjusting packs and equipment, we
rise early or late, as we choose, and
perhaps start off the day with a
plunge in the pool.
This pool is built of gleaming stone
on the shores of the lake about fifty
feet from the hotel and is surrounded
with great glass walls about fifteen
feet high, for protection just in case
the mountain breezes should be blowing while we bathe. From the top of
the glass wall, flowers and swinging
vines wave in their wide green boxes,
and all around the lawns are massed
with bright blooms and delicate yellow
poppies. The water, fresh as the
morning, is piped in from a mountain
stream and heated to normal temperature before it reaches the pool.
When the clear sunshine sparkles
down upon the water, the flowers and
the merrily splashing bathers, this
seems certainly the ideal spot to
begin the day.
Then all fresh from the invigorating
plunge, we dress and walk up the
sun-splashed terrace to the dining-
room. Here a little table, gleaming
with satin-smooth linen and silver,
awaits us beside one of the great
plate-glass windows; and we drink our
coffee and eat our rolls and bacon and
blueberries and cream in full view of the
magnificent panorama of Lake Louise
and her back-drop of snow-capped
mountains. It feels a bit like being on
a stage—in fact, it's very easy here
to picture one's self as the heroine of
some graceful and romantic tale!
After breakfast the deck-chairs
await us on the sunny terrace, where
we read the morning papers and
observe that heat waves seem to have
prostrated the rest of the continent.
A tiny chipmunk scampers across the
pebbles, ready to be coaxed to beg for
peanuts or candy, which, if we are
very quiet and friendly, he will eat
from our hands. This is the most
pleasant, the most peaceful place we
have found in all our Western tour.
But for all its peace and serenity,
it's much too exhilarating here to stay
still long; so we stroll across the lawns
to the water's edge and start off along
the path that borders the left shore of
the lake. On one side the wooded
mountain rises sheer from the path,
and on the other, not five feet away
winking in the sunlight behind the
fringe of trees, is the rim of the
exquisite lake. The first mile and a
half is level and takes us around the
water to the stream that feeds it,
rushing down its mountain canyon
from Victoria Glacier. Next, the
climb rises gently and then ruggedly;
and we stroll, gathering wild-flowers,
or putting our hearts into the climb,
resolve to reach the glacier within the
hour. In any event it is a glorious
outing—a hike or a stroll, whichever
we choose to make it. That's the
charm of Lake Louise: our holiday
^^^H«n^^^H^I^B
Tennis at Lake Louise
may be just what we choose to make
it—a rest in flowery gardens of ease, a
series of glorious outdoor adventures,
or a round of sophisticated hotel life
with dancing, concerts and the charm
of the passing show.
In all this region it is the peculiar
freshness of the air—the result of the
altitude—and the clarity of the sunshine that gives such zest to everything. As for the weather, in a
summer when most of the American
continent sweltered in often a hundred and more degrees of heat, it was
never more than S3 in Lake Louise.
And then in the evening, the luxuries of the Chateau become evident.
After a strenuous day out of doors, or
indeed in this climate, after even the
laziest afternoon in a deck-chair on
the lawn, one's first thought is ' 'food."
The dining room is a special wing built
with great windows on either side for
the glorious view, and the orchestra
plays in the sun-room adjoining—but
far more important, the food and the
service are perfect. And after dinner
there is perhaps a concert, and, of
course, dancing in the ball-room. Or
you may prefer bridge. The lounges
are spacious and luxurious and there is
always room for privacy for your own
particular party. Or you might like
just to settle back in a wide, deep
chair and listen to the music for a
little before we stroll down to the
water's edge to see the lake by moonlight. Under the starry sky Louise
lies always peacefully, protected from
the world and its stormy winds by her
guardian circle of twelve mighty
peaks. Here is peace and pleasure,
content and—happy days. For fortunate beyond our human desert is
the traveller who fares to these halcyon shores and heights.
Ballroom—
Chateau Lake Louise
Page 1£ MmymMm
Reflections at Emerald Lake
CHALET-BUNGALOW CAMPS
AND   DUDE  RANCHES
They are seven in number and
their names, in order as they
come from east to west, are as
follows: Mount Assiniboine, reached
after a two-days' horse-back ride
from Banff over a spectacular new
trail; Castle Mountain Chalet-Bungalow Camp—to which you can motor
from Banff or Lake Louise or from the
stop called Castle on the main line of
the C.P.R.; Moraine Lake Chalet-
Bungalow Camp, to which you go by
road from Lake Louise; Wapta Chalet-
Bungalow Camp, a boat, by arrangement in advance, ferrying you across
Lake Wapta from the railway, or you
can motor thither from Banff on the
excellent highway; Lake O'Hara
Chalet-Bungalow Camp, to which you
ride, either the twelve miles of trail
from Lake Louise or the seven from
Wapta; Yoho Valley Chalet-Bungalow
Camp, and Emerald Lake Chalet,
cars to both of which await the arrival
of trains at Field. There is another
camp, Radium Hot Springs, seventy
miles or so south on the Banff-
Windermere road, which branches off
about midway between Banff and
Lake Louise, visited chiefly by motorists on tour who stay there a day or
two to swim in the big open-air bath
into which the water of the hot
springs has been conducted. The
rates at all these, save the Emerald
Lake Chalet, are the same—namely,
five dollars and fifty cents per day,
American plan, or thirty-five dollars
per week. All are run on the same
lines, but each has its individuality.
Emerald Lake is a little more
sophisticated than the others. That
is to say you have hot and cold running water in your own bathroom.
It is a camp de luxe. There the rates
are, consequently, not quite so low
as at the others, being seven, eight, or
nine dollars per day, American plan,
or forty-nine to fifty-six dollars per
week, according to the cabin or
bungalow you occupy. All are designed in somewhat similar fashion,
with individual differences: there is
the central bungalow, with dining-
room and comfortable community
living-room, and there are the cabins
dotted round about in the woods. All
these Chalet-Bungalow camps, with
the exception of Mount Assiniboine,
which opens July 1 and closes September 1, are open from the middle of June
to the middle of September.   At those
beside lakes, such as Emerald, Wapta,
O'Hara, Moraine, boats are obtainable.
At all except Radium (which is in a
sense a camp apart, its main attraction
the hot springs bath beside it) there
are corrals where horses are obtainable
for rides on the winding trails, either
alone or with attendant guides. The
cost of hire of a saddle-horse runs
about four dollars a day. If a guide
accompanies you there is, of course, a
nominal  charge  for  his  attendance.
There are ease and bonhomie about
these camps. Their life is more
intimate than that of the great hotels
of the mountains by reason of the fact
that they accommodate fewer guests,
there being only anything from about
a dozen to a couple of dozen or so
cabins at any of the camps—at Yoho,
for example, fourteen, at Emerald
Lake twenty-nine.
There is very great charm in a
sojourn at any of them. The odours
we breathe are of pine and balsam.
Squirrels, busy in the trees, drop cones
down for their winter store, tip-tapping on the cabin-roofs. Woodpeckers fly to and fro and clamp themselves suddenly to the trunks to flay
the bark off vigorously in  quest of
Page 19 iliMmmm
Wapta Chalet-Bungalow Camp
fodder, heedless of your presence.
Jays, both the dove-grey ones and
the vivid blue ones, flutter round.
At Emerald Lake the cars come in
from the outer world and leave
travellers to rest with the enamel
inlay of the lake between the trees,
and the high majestic front of Mount
Burgess—and the squirrels. Across
the lake are veins of silver down the
slopes in a zig-zag line, glimpsed and
lost across screes, glimpsed again
above a lower flounce of forest, showing again among the everlasting green
in intermittent flashes. The faint
whispered echo in the cabins, when
you waken there to the morning sun-
glow, might be of these distant
torrents or of wind in the tree-tops.
It comes in with the morning sunlight as part of the stillness rather than
breaking it. At Yoho the sound of
Takakkaw   Falls,   that   shoot   their
Moraine Lake Chalet-Bungalow Camp
white arrows of foam, all day long,
down a thousand feet of cliff, is at
first like a storm blowing, but we
know it is no storm because the trees
are all standing very still as in an
eternal tranquil reverie. Later it
becomes part of the life there. The
first impression is of a high gale, or the
roar of storm on a beach, shaking the
air of that high valley, but the sound
does not destroy the upland quiet and
old serenity. The little low quank-
quank of a nuthatch is heard clear
through the woods despite that roar.
At Castle Mountain the grandeur of
the mountain-range that gives the
camp its name becomes part of our
vacation. That seeming immutable
wall of tones of grey and bars of
brown and slashes of ochre changes all
the while, mutable in the changes of
the day's light. One even becomes
excited over the drifting shadows of
clouds on it and the splashes of sun
on its high, enormous, gable-like
precipices. Lake O'Hara is as lovely
as Lake Louise, but only the community-house on the knoll among the
spruce trees, and the log-cabins, front
it. They seem hardly at all an intrusion    on    the   serenity   of    Nature.
Emerald Lake Chalet
© A.S.N.
Moraine is situated at the entrance to
the spectacular Valley of the Ten
Peaks. At all of these places, out of
the hot summer cities, you can sleep
o' nights and come by a good appetite.
You have opportunity both for
sociability and for leisure. You may
sit in one of the rooms of the community-house under electric light in
the evening, or go to your own cabin
among the trees and loaf there—in
your own lodge in the wilderness.
At Castle Mountain there are large
open fireplaces in the cabins where, in
the evenings, logs burn; in the others
are stoves. The old tweeds and
hiking-shoes, the old plus-fours or
riding-breeches fit easily. You rest
from telephone bells.
The guests are always interesting:
business men and their families relaxing, mending their livers on horseback rides; painters who set off after
breakfast with their canvases; medical men laying up vigor for a winter's
duties; schoolmasters  dismissing  for
©A.S.N.
Castle Mountain Chalet-Bungalow Camp
Page 20 mSSttkM
Johnston Canyon
© A.S.N.
a while the scholastic; politicians letting the world wag; musicians on
vacation. In the big hotels a singer
on holiday does not sing; but sometimes, in these camps, so friendly are
they, so much do we all fall into the
state as of an amicable family in the
communal happiness, in the robus-
tiously scented mountain world, famous musicians often entertain their
fellow-guests in the evening. It is a
memorable experience to sit out on
the veranda, say, of Castle Mountain
Chalet-Bungalow Camp and watch the
lights change on the encircling Castle,
Copper and Storm Mountains, to the
accompaniment of music from within.
Botanists out to add to their collection of Alpine flowers; geologists looking for jelly-fish or crabs thrust up
sky-high in the upheavals of aeons ago
to what are now mountain-tops—and
finding them too, in many places, such
as the famous fossil-beds of Mount
Wapta, reached both from the Emerald Lake Chalet and Yoho—are also
among the guests, and those whom the
guides call "glacierologists." You go
for rides to see the cloisonne of
glaciers inlaid on the peaks, or hike
to little lakes through the stillness of
forests like that of pillared cathedrals,
or go on fishing expeditions—out from
Castle Mountain Chalet-Bungalow
Camp to Boom Lake, or out from Moraine to the beautiful Consolation Lake,
or from Wapta to Sherbrooke Lake.
Happy days, happy days are these! A
bungalow-camp vacation is a delightful experience.
DUDE RANCHES
At various places in the Canadian
Rockies, the visitor can enjoy both
ranch life and excursions into the
neighbouring mountains.   They are:—
Buffalo Head Ranch—near the
E P Ranch. Address, George W.
Pocaterra, High River, R.R.2,
Alta.
Kananaskis Ranch—in Banff Park.
Address, C. B. Brewster, Kananaskis,
Alta.
Half Circle E Y Ranch, Seebe, Alta.
—operated by Colonel Mills and Miss
Yates. Address, Miss E. Yates,
1374 Sherbrooke Street W., Montreal,
Que.
Lake Windermere Ranch Camp for
Girls—located 100 miles from Banff
on Lake Windermere. Address, Miss
Mary Cutler, 2716 Thayer Street,
Evanston, 111.
Mount Assiniboine Camp—at the
base of the "Matterhorn of the
Rockies." Address, Mrs. W. A. Brewster, Kananaskis, Alta.
Skookumchuck - in - the - Rockies—
for girls under twenty-one, on Lake
Premier, British Columbia. Address
Mrs. Elmore Lowell Staples, 461 B
Avenue, Coronado, Calif.
The T S Ranch—adjoining the E P
Ranch belonging to the Prince of
Wales. Conducted by Guy Weadick,
Manager of the Calgary Stampede.
Address, Longview P.O., Alta.
"Dudes" at Kananaskis Ranch
Page 21
Radium Hot Springs Chalet-Bungalow Camp
© A.S.N. Rocky Mountain Sheep
In the three great wild life sanctuaries of Banff, Yoho and Kootenay, many kinds of animals and
birds are found. Some of these furred
and feathered creatures are shy and
timid and their presence unsuspected
except by the experienced nature
student. Others are nocturnal in
habit and thus rarely visible. But at
all seasons of the year there is opportunity to observe and to photograph
numerous forms of animal and bird life.
In the open woods Mule Deer may
be seen in large numbers—a group of
these stately creatures walking across
a forest glade, their antlers held
proudly aloft, presents a charming
picture to the observer. Wapiti, or
American Elk, range on grassy uplands
during summer months, the Cascade
Valley, north of Banff, being a favourite haunt of these majestic deer. On
moist green meadows near Sundance
Canyon and in the shallows of Spray
Lake the lordly Moose finds an abundance of food. A first cousin of the
Mule Deer—the Columbian Black-
tailed Deer—lives in the green woods at
Emerald Lake and may sometimes be
seen near Radium Springs at the western end of Banff-Windermere highway.
The sunny slopes of Sawback Range
afford pasturage to bands of Big Horn
Sheep. These wild sheep are not
woolly, but clad in a coat of wiry hair
similar in colour and texture to that on
deer. Old males have massive curving horns—female have horns much
more slim and straight. Numbers of
these animals frequent the crags by
the side of Banff-Lake Louise motor
highway. There, too, in early summer, Rocky Mountain Goats are
seen, their long all-white, all-wool
coats making them unusually conspicuous. Mount Wiwaxy at Lake O'Hara
and the high hillsides in Yoho are also
places where wild goats may be found.
Of all large animals in the Canadian
Rockies, the Black Bear is most
diverting in habit. The ability to
stand upright and to walk erect, the
possession of a sweet tooth, the sudden alarm and almost frantic scrambling to safety in a tree top, the engaging appearance and behaviour of the
tiny cubs—such traits and tricks
lure many a camera from its case and
tempt one to be prodigal with moving
picture film. In recent years the
Grizzly Bear has become somewhat of
a recluse, living in remote parts of the
mountains where he is seldom seen
save by wardens and woodsmen. In
the fall of the year, in Mount Assiniboine district, Grizzlies are seen
quarrying for Marmots in the rock
slides or ploughing the soil on Alpine
meadows in quest of Ground Squir-
Black Bear
rels. The Cougar or Mountain Lion,
native to the Rockies, is a wary
creature, remaining concealed during
the hours of daylight. It is archenemy to the Mule Deer and is noted
as a long distance walker. A smaller
member of the cat tribe—the Canada
Lynx—hunts Varying Hares in Bow
Valley and is a night prowler, having
very yellow eyes and a somewhat
cowardly  disposition.
The Coyote or Prairie Wolf also
ranges in the mountains and may at
times be observed on grasslands or in
aspen poplar woods in the neighbourhood of Banff. Wolves and Foxes are
rare. Members of the Weasel clan,
such as Pine Marten, Mink, Otter,
Skunk, Wolverine and Badger live in
this part of the Canadian Rockies, but
the presence of these creatures is
seldom revealed save by tell-tale
tracks in glacial clay at the river's
edge or in peaty soil by the margin of
a mountain tarn.
Of Rodents there are many varieties. Largest of all, and perhaps
most interesting, is the Canada Beaver. Great numbers of these creatures now inhabit the banks of Bow
River and its tributaries, their houses,
dams and tree fellings being visible at
many points along the highway linking Banff with Lake Louise.    Hoary
ANIMAL and
Written and illustrated by
Marmots find refuge in massive rock
slides in Paradise Valley, on the
Plain of Six Glaciers and by the shores
of Consolation Lake. This large
Ground Hog, commonly called Sif-
fleur or Whistler may be heard
broadcasting a shrill alarm note or
seen waddling clumsily from boulder
to boulder throughout sunny days of
summer. Next door neighbour to
the Marmot is a small creature called
Coney or Pika or Little Chief Hare.
In appearance it resembles the Guinea
Pig and is noted for making hay
while the sun shines and for storing
this fodder against famine days of
winter. It is rare at Banff but may
be seen in almost any rock moraine
in Lake Louise district. Porcupines
inhabit all the pine woods. Red
Squirrels are abundant. Columbia
Ground Squirrels or Gophers scurry
across motor highways, escaping sudden death by a tyre breadth. Musk-
rats furrow the waters of Vermilion
Lake. Chipmunks sit erect on sun-
warmed rocks by the wayside or frisk
amongst the Iceland Poppies at
Chateau   Lake   Louise.    No   rabbits
White-Tailed Ptarmigan
are native to this part of the Rockies,
neither may any poisonous snake be
found throughout the length and
breadth of this Paradise of the Nature
lover.
In dealing with birds of the Banff-
Lake Louise region mention can only
be made of such as are likely to come
within notice of the casual observer
in summer, or are not common elsewhere. Permanent dwellers in the
pine woods include Clarke's Crow or
Nutcracker, Canada Jay or Whisky
Jack, Crossbill, Pine Grosbeak and
several varieties of Woodpecker. Prominent amongst the lesser birds of
prey are Sharp-Shinned Hawks and
Page 22 :l
BIRD LIFE
DAN McCOWAN, Field Naturalist
Sparrow Hawks. Rarely will White-
Headed Eagles be seen but Golden
Eagles are fairly common, nesting on
great cliffs such as Big Bee Hive at
Lake Agnes and Tower of Babel near
Moraine Lake. In recent years Magpies and Crows have become plentiful
but Ravens are scarce.
From gravel bars by the side of
Kicking Horse River the Spotted
Sandpiper and the Killdeer make
plaintive outcry, whilst almost every
waterfall in the Rockies furnishes accompaniment to the song of the Water
Ouzel, a curtseying bird that sings in
winter as in summer. Bank Swallows
and Tree Swallows frequent Lake
Wapta in great numbers and for
several years a large colony of Cliff
Swallows has nested on Bow Bridge at
Banff. The rattle of the Belted
Kingfisher echoes across quiet waters,
the silence of placid lake is broken
by the cry of the Osprey or Fish
Hawk. In covert of forest undergrowth Ruffed Grouse and Franklin
Grouse are at home. A large sooty-
blue grouse called Richardsons is
present   on    thinly   wooded    slopes.
ft.... ..
Pintail Duck
The White-tailed Ptarmigan, related
to the Grouse of Scotland, finds food
and shelter amongst heath and false
heather by the shores of Lake McArthur and on moors by the High Line
Trail in Yoho.
Rufous Humming Birds dart amongst
flowers on the terraces at Banff
Springs. Western Robins, Pine Siskins, and Grey-Crowned Finches are
often on the lawns at Chateau Louise.
In shady woods by Snowpeak avenue
the song of Wilson's Thrush may be
heard. Olive-backed Thrushes nest
in willows around Banff. Several
species of Grebe swim and dive in
lakes and rivers of the Rockies.    In
early summer Vermilion Lakes are
tenanted by many Coots, the reedy
shores also affording shelter to a
chorus of Red-winged Blackbirds.
Here too, at evening, the voice of the
Bittern is heard.
Few of the mountain tarns lack
the presence of one Loon. Moraine
Lake is favoured by Harlequin Ducks.
BufiTeheads and Pintail Ducks resort
to the solitudes at Boom Lake. Mergansers find good fish to eat in Twin
Lakes near Castle Mountain camp.
Mule Deer
Of Warblers, the Audubon and the
Yellow are most readily seen. Chipping Sparrows and White Crowned
Sparrows are numerous. The sight
of a Mountain Bluebird never fails to
delight the eye. The flute-like notes
of the Western Meadowlark are ever
pleasing to the ear.
WITH ROD AND GUN
OF the several varieties of sporting fishes found in the many
streams and lakes of this region,
the Cut-throat Trout is most important. Equally at home in the surge
of rushing foaming brooks, or under
the ripples of a mountain tarn—it
rises freely to a fly and is a game
fighter, giving the angler many an
anxious moment ere the landing net
can be used. Headwaters of Cascade
River, Spray River and Spray Lakes,
Mystic Lake and Sawback Lake—all
within easy reach of Banff—are favorite haunts of these fine trout.
For the angler who can go further
afield there are splendid streams in
Mount Assiniboine district, waters
from whence the Osprey obtains an
easy livelihood and in which the roving Otter is tempted to become a permanent resident. When the wind sits
in the right quarter there are great
xxyyyy ys -S" %
Landing one at Twin Lakes    © a.s.n.
trout rising in Wapta Lake. These
may best be lured by dry fly—Green-
wells Glory or Royal Coachman for
choice. Lake O'Hara, recently stocked with trout from the Dominion
Government Hatchery at Banff, is
now yielding nice baskets. In Twin
Lakes and Boom Lake (near Castle
Mt. Chalet-Bungalow Camp) trout of
good pan size are plentiful. Consolation Lake, Ross Lake and pools on
Bow River—all within short distance
of Chateau Louise—are delightful
places for the philosophical fisherman
who has an eye for the beauty of wild
flower meadows and an ear for the sound
of South winds singing in the pines.
Lake Minnewanka at Banff contains Lake trout of great size, specimens of thirty and forty pounds
weight being not uncommon. Trolling from boats is the method employed here. Dolly Varden or Bull
trout are found in sluggish parts of Bow
River. Rocky Mts. Whitefish, locally
called Grayling, are also present in
this river. Nipigon and Rainbow
trout have been introduced to streams
in the region but, so far, the planting
has been more or less experimental.
While hunting is forbidden within
the National Parks of the Canadian
Rockies, there are unrivalled opportunities for big game in territory to
the north and south of Banff and
Lake Louise outside the Park limits.
Canadian Pacific hotels and bungalow camps are good starting points for
hunting grounds where Rocky Mountain Sheep (the 'big horn'), mountain
goat, grizzly and black bear, moose
and deer are generously distributed
with chances for elk or wapiti in certain
sections. Among other splendid hunting districts might be mentioned the
Kootenay and Cariboo, while the
British Columbia coast and the
country inland from it constitute a
practically virgin field affording markedly favorable possibilities.
The famous Cassiar region in
Northern B.C. is recognized as one
of the finest sporting areas of the
North American Continent, offering
an unusual variety and abundance
of big game.
Page 23 TRAIL   RIDING  on Top of the World
Along the mountain trails
Mount Assiniboine Camp
©A.I
A t Lake of the Hanging Glaciers
A viation has its thrills. Explor-
y\ ing the glistening peaks of the
' * Alps is not without its fascination
—but for those who prefer to take
"Nature neat," nothing surpasses
the joy of trail riding in the Canadian Rockies. There, astride a nimble pony, you are transported by flying hoofs, up from a world of ultra
sophistication to the mountain tops.
Seven years ago, away up in the
Canadian Rockies, a blustering blizzard was rip snorting across the Wolverine Plateau, beating furiously
against a lone teepee which stood on a
carpet of drenched white heather.
Within were a small group of artists,
writers and business men—with a
guide—all drawn together by a common love of exploring the mountains
on horseback. During their enforced
delay they might have been discussing art, these men; equally well they
might have been playing poker, but
instead they were gradually formulating a scheme for an order which should
number in its ranks men and women
with a love of horses and an appreciation of the beauty of the mountains.
They were destined to become the
Fathers of a Constitution, were this
party—not of a country or a state,
but of "an international order that
knows neither creed, color, nor profession—The Trail Riders."
Now Karl Marx and Mr. Stalin
notwithstanding, this little group
believed that competition was the
spice of life. And when one of them
ejaculated "Buttons" the result was a
graded hierarchy. There are the rank
and file, who have ridden fifty miles
more or less, and who are distinguished by a bronze button. There
are the hundred-milers with silver
buttons, and the five-hundred-milers
with gold buttons. Above them rank
the thousand-milers and the twenty-
five-hundred mile trailers, who with
their enamelled gold buttons number
almost one hundred.
Each applicant is handled by a
membership committee with the
strictness of a tribunal classifying war
recruits. When the committee has
given your case serious consideration,
the appropriate button, with the
official bulletin of the organization,
announcing the place and date of the
next powwow, is forwarded, and you
have arrived.
To-day the order numbers some
fifteen hundred members with practically every Province in the Dominion and State in the Union represented, and riders from all parts of
England and Australia on the register.
An annual ride is held by the order
near the end of July. Starting from
Banff it lasts four days. Good fellowship is the key to its success. Good
fellowship? It begins right up in
Banff Springs Hotel where the secretary-treasurer enrolls new members.
It continues when Col. Phil. A. Moore
hands out the identification tags—
' 'one for the horse, one for the saddle
and one for the duffle bag"—with a
far-fetched story for good measure.
It reaches a climax when the riders get
together — thirty-three degree trail
riders and novices who think a
"sinker" is something used in fishing.
Not at random is the route chosen.
Knowing men plan it to afford the
maximum in scenic beauty. And
usually a concession is made to the
fishermen of the party, who, on one
afternoon at least, have the opportunity of displaying their prowess.
Where success attends their efforts,
the camp bears with equanimity their
rather lengthy stories.
Riding along, you are perhaps a
little bewildered with the unending
varieties of flowers and grasses abounding on every side. Then one day you
ride with Dan McCowan—Dan,
naturalist, photographer and philosopher—who, with no assumption of
superior knowledge, but with a very
decided Scotch accent, opens up new
realms of undreamed-of beauty.
Lunch—a cigarette—then on to the
evening camping ground. At the
sight of the already pitched teepees
(the pack train having gone ahead at
lunch) the ponies break into a gallop
and the day's ride is over. Having
retrieved your duffle bag with the help
of your omniscient guide, you wash a
bit and kodak a bit and talk a bit
while the Irish cook redoubles his
efforts. Then from the cook the cry
rings out, "Come and get it!" No
second invitation is ever necessary.
Evening—and the shadows are
lengthening on the encircling mountains. As the dusk deepens, a huge
camp fire is built and in the stillness of
the mountains the songs of the Trail
Riders re-echo—rollicking songs of the
trail or plaintive melodies with a
deeper note.
All too quickly the hours pass and
the camp fire is burning low. Then
guides serve cocoa and "sinkers" and
fragrant beds of pine boughs call.
One by one the candles are extinguished in the teepees. The camp
sleeps—the peace of the evening
broken only by the clang of some
pony's hobble or the voice of the
night rider.
Page 24 §m
The Empress Hotel, Victoria
© A.S.N.
CANADA'S EVERGREEN PLAYGROUND
IT is a strange combination of
climatic conditions which has
given Canada in Vancouver Island and the British Columbia coast
country an Evergreen Playground
where one may golf, swim, play tennis,
yacht and in general lead an out-of-
doors life the year round. Extremes of temperature are unknown.
When winter sports are at their
zenith in Quebec, golf is in full swing
in Canada's Evergreen Playground,
for the warm Japan current, sweeping southward, exercises a tempering
effect. So in summer, when the mercury may be touching new highs in the
east, it is always pleasantly cool on
the Pacific coast, the everchanging
tidal waters keeping the day temperature moderate and the nights cool.
Weathermen, indeed, will tell you
that the climate practically duplicates the "optimum" or ideal.
The story of the discovery and exploration of this region is shot through
with romance. Drake visited it when
harrying the Spaniards. Cook came,
too, and Vancouver left an indelible
imprint on the pages of its history.
Traders arrived in the wake of the
explorers and from a trading post
which they established on the southern tip of Vancouver Island grew
Victoria, that regal city of homes and
gardens. Lumber men saw the illimitable   potentialities   of  the  country's
forests and from a lumber camp grew
the thriving city of Vancouver. And
the aborigines? Coast Indians they
were who hunted salmon as their
brothers farther east hunted the
buffalo. They, too, have woven
colorful strands in the romantic
background of the Evergreen Playground, and their lore has been given
to the world in the pages of the Indian
poetess, Pauline Johnson, and inscribed more primitively on graven
stones and painted totem poles which
dot this region.
All summer sports are indulged in—
and indulged in the year round!
Golf? The glorious climate, beautiful
surroundings and careful course architecture make the Evergreen Playground a wonder country for the
wielder of the mashie and the niblick.
In and around Victoria there are
eleven courses; in Vancouver and
vicinity eleven, too, and playing privileges are cordially extended to visitors.
Yachting is a favorite relaxation in
the Evergreen Playground, and if you
are a yachtsman the commodore of
your club will arrange introductions
with local clubs. Between the east
coast of Vancouver Island and the
mainland is that shimmering sea
called the Gulf of Georgia. These
beguiling waters stretch for over four
hundred miles up the coast of British
Columbia.    Even  in  winter  months
yachtsmen enjoy their avocation, the
log of the ' 'Wyvern II," of Parksville,
Vancouver Island, reading on a
Christmas Day, "Out with Alex and
Brian under power one and a half
miles from shore.    Nice day."
For swimming, Vancouver boasts
six sandy beaches while Victoria has
one of the largest indoor salt-water
swimming pools on the continent.
Tennis, riding, hiking—there are facilities for them all.
There are, too, superb possibilities
for fishing and hunting and on Vancouver Island fishing may be enjoyed
the year round. In January, February and March there are grilse,
spring salmon and steel-head trout.
Trout fishing, all species, opens in
March and the above continue through
April. In May a small run of cohoe
salmon adds to the variety, while in
June, black bass, too, are available,
making the offerings trout, black
bass, grilse and cohoe salmon. In
July delete the grilse and cohoe salmon from the above calendar, substituting the summer run of steel-
heads. Add tyees in August. In
September there are trout, tyees and
cohoe salmon, black bass and steel-
heads. Delete black bass in October
and in November prepare for some
extra special steelhead fishing which is
then at its best. Could any fisherman's  calendar  be  more   complete?
Page 25 As to the "where" and the "how,"
consult the information desk in the
Empress Hotel or the Hotel Vancouver. For hunting information,
sportsmen will be well advised to
consult the General Tourist Agent,
Canadian Pacific, Montreal, who is in
touch with scouts in the district and is
in a position to furnish up-to-the-
minute information.
Social and sports centre of the
Evergreen Playground is Victoria.
Regal in name and regal in beauty this
quiet city, which combines the charm
of Old England with the simplicity of
Colonial days, is picturesquely situated at the southern tip of Vancouver Island. Ships laden with the
wealth of the Orient dock within its
sheltering breakwater, its inner harbor
is a landlocked basin surrounded with
close-shorn lawns and stately buildings. In the opposing panorama are
the snow-clad Olympics and the more
distant mainland ranges.
In Victoria one stays at The Empress. The atmosphere is not that of
a conventional hotel, but rather that
of an old English mansion with a gay
house party in progress. The exquisite taste of the furnishings, the quiet,
unobtrusive  service  and   the  air   of
Butchart Gardens, Victoria
gracious hospitality help to create the
illusion within, while the spacious rose
gardens, the ivy-clad walls, the conservatory and curving drives sweeping up to the massive doors belie,
without, the conventional hotel.
From the Empress a path leads over
velvet lawns to the Crystal Garden
which houses one of the largest saltwater swimming pools on the continent together with Turkish baths
and private sea-water baths, dance
floors, promenades and badminton
courts. Gay throngs continually frequent the Crystal Garden, for it is
Victoria's favorite rendezvous and
amusement  centre.
A few minutes' walk from the hotel
stand in cathedral serenity the massive domed Parliament Buildings, for
Victoria is the legislative capital of
British Columbia. Within you will
find museums of natural history,
mineral exhibits, Indian relics and
maps, charts and logs of discovery
days which mirror the romantic
history of the Province.
Then with a car or in one of the
luxurious busses which leave The
Empress daily you can explore the
highways which radiate from Victoria.
The famous Pacific Highway wends
5
© A.S.N.
its way through the Coldstream Valley and up over the Malahat Drive,
affording a wonderful view over the
distant island-dotted Gulf of Georgia
to the distant mainland.
Another entrancing drive is through
the Saanich Peninsula to the famous
Butchart Gardens at Tod Inlet, where
a former limestone quarry has been
converted from a yawning chasm into
a garden famed for its beauty the
world over. Yet another drive is
along the foreshore, which blazes with
golden broom, through Beacon Hill
Park, along Marine Drive with its
superb views of the distant Olympics,
past the Uplands with its gnarled
oaks and back to the city. There are
still to be seen, of course, the residential streets with their glorious gardens,
and the astrophysical observatory,
but "one seeing is worth a thousand
tellings" and Victoria taxed even the
descriptive powers of Kipling.
Vancouver is connected with Victoria by the "Princess" steamships of
the Canadian Pacific British Columbia
Coast Service, described elsewhere in
this booklet. An intensely vital city,
with the suggestion of enormous
future expansion, Vancouver presents
a striking contrast to the more "re-
Page 26 .y:gl0yy
served" Victoria. Possessing a magnificent harbor, it is at once the terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway
and the Canadian gateway to the
Orient. White Empresses of the
Pacific dock there from the east;
ships come, too, from the lands
"down under" and unload their cargoes into the waiting trains which
distribute them to the four corners of
the continent.
But Vancouver has charms for the
visitor, too. From the waterfront
the city rises in tiers of splendid
buildings. Facing it on a sunny
slope is north Vancouver and behind
that, high up in the blue, the couchant
"Lions." You will make your headquarters at the Hotel Vancouver,
another of the chain of seventeen
Canadian Pacific hotels which stretches from the Pacific to the Atlantic.
Commandingly situated overlooking
the Strait of Georgia, the "Vancouver" is an imposing edifice with an
atmosphere of quiet dignity.
Among the beauty spots in Vancouver is Stanley Park, world famous
for its giant trees, its wealth oi foliage
and primitive beauty. Interesting
points in this vast natural Park are
the   Harding   Memorial,   the   Zoolo-
On the 7th at Oak Bay, Victoria
gical Gardens and one of Vancouver's
six bathing beaches, English Bay.
Crowds throng the Park daily for it is
a favorite spot both with the citizen
and visitor.
Then you must take the 25-mile
Marine Drive which passes through
the city's residential sections and
affords glorious views of the Strait of
Georgia, with snow-capped mountains and the shoreline of Vancouver
Island in the distance, and Mt.
Baker's snowy peak in Washington.
Another spot which well repays a
visit is Grouse Mountain. Beneath
the Chalet at its summit stretches the
wonderful panorama of Vancouver, the
Fraser Valley and the Gulf of Georgia.
Mention has been made of Mt.
Baker and, indeed, it is one of the most
prominent objects of the landscape
seen from the vicinity of Vancouver.
Over 10,000 feet in height, the "Great
White Watcher" of Indian lore lies
about 100 miles south in a National
Forest in the State of Washington and
can be reached easily by automobile.
Mt. Baker Lodge, in the heart of this
forest and alpine vacation land, is the
centre from which to visit this magnificent region.
En route to or from Vancouver and
Victoria, a visit should be paid to
Harrison Hot Springs, 80 miles from
Vancouver on Harrison Lake. Here,
amid wonderful scenery, are two hot,
health-giving, radio-active springs,
one with the sulphur content predominating, the other potash. A splendid hotel has been built with a well-
equipped medical and hydro-therapy
department, though the holiday maker
is as much at home at Harrison Hot
Springs as the invalid. This resort is
easily reached, visitors travelling over
the main line of the Canadian Pacific
stopping off at Agassiz, where they are
met by busses.
Victoria, Vancouver, Harrison Hot
Springs—when should one come ? In
spring the hedgerows are white with
drifts of flowering dogwood and the
orchards buried in apple blossom. In
summer the woods lend their grateful
shade and the nights are soft and cool,
and fragrant with the balsam and the
pine. In the Fall the maples and Cottonwood glow like torches against the
sombre green of the conifers. And in
winter ? You will find a temperate
climate in which flowers and shrubs
still bloom, and outdoors sports go on
with undiminished vigor—for this is
Canada's Evergreen Playground.
Page 27 LURE OF ALASKA
LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN
Totem Poles—Alert Bay
Alaska, Land of the Midnight Sun,
/A land of contrast, of beauty and
'     * mystery!
Amid its ageless hills it slept for centuries, hidden and aloof, an Arctic
fastness where only the wheeling birds
swept down from the sky to feed in its
lush muskeg pools or where tiny Es-
qimaux and Indian bands in crude
dugout canoes pushed on to the sealing, fishing and whaling grounds of a
primeval empire.
Alaska, eternal contrast, where the
hand of Man has traced but a few insignificant lines on the rugged face of
its cliffs and fjords, yet where Man,
with his gigantic machinery, each year
removes untold wealth in fish, in furs,
in gold and in other precious metals,
scattering the largess of this fabulous
land to the far corners of the earth.
Alaska! The Yukon! There is a
glamour, a suggestion of high adventure in the very names.
At almost the turn of the golden
Twentieth Century, Alaska and its
Canadian neighbor, the Yukon,
leaped into world prominence as a
fabulous land of wealth that lay in the
golden sands of its rushing creeks and
rivers. The name of the Northland
was on millions of lips throughout the
nations. Men begged, borrowed and
even stole the wherewithal to reach its
rocky shores and push into the bonanzas of Dawson Creek and the Klondike.
For centuries a sleeping, well-nigh
impenetrable wilderness, Alaska became overnight the cynosure of the
world's eyes. With its gold and its
furs it began to yield its ancient
secrets of Indian lore; its beauties, its
mysteries of climate and soil and the
charms that lay hidden in a thousand
fjords and bays along a thousand miles
of rugged, timbered coastline.
Each year ever-increasing numbers
of travellers push northward in luxurious steamers to this mystic, awe-
inspiring North revelling in its beauty,
caught in its glamour and thrilled by
the vastness of its shoreline panorama
unfolding mile after mile along the
sunlit waters of the famed Inside Passage.
Lazy, health-giving days on the
decks of a "Northern Princess"—one
of the stout, trim little liners which
freight the summer sightseer under
the red and white checkered house-
flag of the world-renowned Canadian
Pacific to the Alaskan wonderland.
Deck  tennis,  dancing  on  the  after-
deck in the Northland's night-long
twilight, sunny hours in deck chairs
gazing at a succession of breath-taking views—Alert Bay, quaint Indian
village on Vancouver Island where
colorful totem poles graphically relate
tribal history of the centuries in a
series of brilliant designs and hieroglyphics—Ketchikan, also with its totem
poles and Indian lore; Taku Glacier,
vast remnant of the ice age where
sightseers pause to be reminded that
this is the North, despite hot suns
and July temperatures—Juneau and
Wrangell, important fishing centres
once held by the Russian Czars, and
finally, at the end of the voyage,
Skagway, roaring centre of the Gold
Rush where bearded miners spent
their dust, drank red-eye in a hundred
saloons, dealt faro or whirled roulette
in as many gambling halls; lived and
had their fling in the midst of a mad,
fe*verish scramble for gold unparalleled in the world's history.
There, in Skagway, is the Alaska—
and the Yukon, too, of yesterday. In
Skagway and in Dawson City are
many mementos of those hectic
days. You are reminded of this
country's golden history when you
walk into a bank in Dawson and see
the legend "Gold Dust Teller" over
one of the grilled cages where a neatly-
dressed, quiet-spoken youth carefully
weighs the precious dust on finely
balanced scales, giving the depositor
the equivalent of its value in crisp
bank notes and shining silver. In
Skagway and Dawson still live little
bands of survivors of that rushing
decade. These are the Sourdoughs,
and it needs but a word from the
tourist to bring from them a colorful
outpouring of reminiscences. They
tell you stories of Klondike River and
Bonanza Creek, where the first great
gold discovery was made in '96, and if
you are in Dawson they point out the
cabin wherein dwelt Robert W. Service, immortal bard of the Gold Rush
and the North. And at Dawson the
Sourdoughs take you to Bonanza
Creek, high above the town, and show
you the huge gold dredges scarring
the valleys with deep rig and furrow.
It was not so in their day, they tell
you. They, the pioneers, worked
with pick and shovel and crude,
home-made sluice-box and cradle.
They point out Service's cabin. He
was a great lad, they remark, for he
read the miners' hearts, saw good in
the worst of them, caught the romance
Page 28 and the glamour of that great rush for
the golden river bottoms and paused
long enough to put it into verse so the
world might read and marvel. Then
they show you Moosehide, the Indian
village adjoining Dawson. There is
color, the old North before gold was
found and the white man came in his
struggling thousands.
The North abounds in names the
very sound of which stirs a chord of
memory for those mad, departed
days—Skagway and Dawson City,
the White Pass over which thousands
on foot, with dogs and horses, pushed
their tedious, heart-breaking way in
the grip of a ghastly winter; Dead
Horse Gulch, where rough but kind-
hearted men sent bullets into the
heaving bodies of their spent horses
when the race for the gold fields
became more than flesh could bear;
Five-Finger Rapids where the rushing
Yukon spreads like a human hand to
snatch the unwary—the Klondike and
Dawson Creek, ends of the golden
rainbow to reach which men sold their
bodies and their souls.
But Alaska, land of contrasts, has
more than the lingering romance of a
gigantic scramble for gold. Its summer days are endless. Southerners
who read of the North in Winter need
to know that in Skagway, in Blan-
chard's world-renowned gardens, pan-
sies are three and a half inches wide
and nasturtium vines grow three
inches in twenty-four hours!
Alaska, the Yukon, lands of great
distances, rugged mountains, rushing
rivers where the caribou swim in
thousands in their spring migrations
from one feeding ground to another,
offering a sight unrivalled and inspiring, is reached from Vancouver,
Victoria and Seattle by a sheltered
sea route that holds interest every
minute of the way.
The Inside Passage winds up the
Coast of British Columbia past Queen
Charlotte Sound, Milbank Sound and
Dixon Entrance where, against the
horizon, you may see the blowing of
giant whales as they hump through
the sea. Through the portholes,
forested islands drift past, their
reflections mirrored on the still waters;
mountainous islands but not forbidding. Taku Glacier, set in the end of
Taku Inlet, a vast wall of green ice,
cracking and setting adrift myriad
little icebergs that dot the waters for
miles. The Alaskan Panhandle unfolding an ever-changing panorama of
beauty. Juneau, where passengers go
ashore to visit the museum and view
the old lamp carved in stone and to
marvel at its sheer exquisite craftsmanship, and to handle the old
Chinese talisman coins, some trinkets
and the skeletons of their owners
found lying beside them in ancient
times, and finally Skagway, now as it
was in '98, centre of romance and high
adventure.
And all the way, cool days, nights
that never quite become dark, ever-
changing   lights   and   shadows   on   a
5.5. White Horse in the Five Fingers Rapids
thousand miles of sheltered water in
a wonderland of islands and deep
fjords.
A Canadian Pacific "Princess" at Taku Glacier
Page 29 Mi
yyim
.£:?*•
Caribou swimming the Yukon River during their migration
© F.N.
CARIBOU MIGRATIONS
Seen from a distance, as the steamer takes a curve of that river of
many windings, the Yukon, they
look at first sight like drift-wood,
fallen forest trees in the flood. Drawing nearer, we realize that they are not
being washed down in the current but
are valiantly swimming across the
stream. Caribou! The caribou! goes
the word along the decks. What we
took for branches are their antlers.
We are witnessing the great spring
migration of the caribou herds from
their winter quarters in the Coast
Range to their summer feeding ground
in the far interior of Yukon Territory.
Anywhere from Carmacks to Stewart we may see them in the month of
July, eastward-bound. The high
banks are scarred with their trails.
Sometimes, coming along just after
a herd has passed, we see them strung
out from base to crest and, on the
ridge, some great stag rigid, looking
down on the way he has come, a
noble silhouette against the sky, with
all the glory of his antlers. The
river steamer does not seem to perturb them. At times they put on
speed to swim across the bows. At
times, as the boat veers in the winding of the channel, they tread water
to let it pass, and are so close alongside that we can see their nostrils
dilating as they swim, see the color of
their eyes and texture of their coats.
Often they stop to graze in the lush
meadows alongshore and passengers,
with the naked eye or with binoculars,
try to make a tally of the size of one
By FREDERICK NIVEN
herd out of the many herds seen thus
almost stationary.
Occasionally a fawn, when they
take to the water at a broad stretch of
the river, grows weary and lags, and
then a doe will turn back to encourage
it. Or a tired fawn may raise its
head and rest it on the mother's
flank for support. This migration of
the caribou is the only sight of its sort
to be seen on the American continent
since the buffalo herds, all but annihilated, ceased to make their great
trek north and south on the prairies,
the barbed wire and the motor-cars
having now claimed what a generation ago was, on the maps, the Great
American Desert, and their pasturage.
On board ship, at our ease, going
down Yukon River on that memorable  inland  voyage  to  Dawson,  we
Lake Bennett
pass through primitive wilderness,
glide through the very recesses of
untamed land. The annual migration of these great herds of caribou
from the Alaskan Range and the
Coast Range goes on to the headwaters of Pelly River, the Macmillan
and Stewart River. Arrived there,
the herds head north, then north-west
through the summer and, on in the
autumn, they return across Yukon
below Dawson, heading south-west
again for their winter quarters. A
few return the way they went; some
remain in inland valleys all winter.
It is a question of fodder and, in
winter, of shelter. But the main
trek, the migration of the herds as a
whole, is as stated, in a great sweep
eastwards across Yukon to the Pelly,
the Macmillan, the Stewart River
headwaters, and back across the
Yukon to the headwaters of the White
River.
If you time your trip into the north
so that you are on the Yukon River
between Whitehorse and Dawson in
the month of July, almost certainly
you will witness this memorable
sight. One day the boat will take a
curve and there, ahead, will be a herd
crossing the great swerving stream, at
first sight looking like a raft of fallen
trees but soon revealed for what it is
—caribou by the score, by the hundred,
sometimes a thousand strong, ant-
lered stags, does, and urgent little
fawns, at the dictate of ancient
instinct swimming the river, as for
hundreds of years they have crossed it
on their great spring migration.
Page 30 w
"Princess Charlotte" of the Canadian Pacific British Columbia Coast Steamships
PACIFIC  PRINCESSES
i inking the outposts of the far-flung
North Pacific Coast from Wash-
■— ington to Alaska is a fleet of
coastal steamships characterized by
marine experts as the finest coastal
fleet in the world—the British Columbia Coast Steamship service of the
Canadian Pacific Railway.
It is a steamship fleet which grew
ahead of its needs, welded together
the cities of Vancouver, Victoria and
Seattle; spread out to reach the
scattered islands of the Strait of
Georgia, brought closer the mines,
sawmills and vast pulp and paper
mills of the British Columbia Coast
and Vancouver Island, and skirted
the rocky picturesque West Coast of
Vancouver Island, linking a score of
salmon canneries, fish reduction plants
and fishing beds with the railhead and
markets of Vancouver
The rapid expansion of the North
Pacific Coast in the past forty years is
inextricably bound up in the fast
development and growth of this
modern steamship service, outgrowth
of a little fleet of paddle steamers
which fifty years ago navigated the
swift-flowing Columbia and Fraser
Rivers, carrying the commerce of two
golden decades in the history of north
Pacific Slope.
Conceived as an extension of the
Canadian Pacific's transcontinental
railway providing a United States
terminus at Seattle, the B.C. Coast
Steamship Service has transcended
that purpose. It has become the
veins and arteries of life for countless
thousands — lumbermen, fishermen,
pulp and paper makers, Indians,
farmers, frontiersmen, trappers, traders, miners and prospectors who have
their being along the remote, scattered
coastal settlements of Northern British Columbia and Alaska. Dwellers
in little fishing settlements, lumber
camps, mines, so remote that floating
schoolhouses and hospitals are sent
to them periodically through the
years, know the red and white checkered houseflag of the Canadian Pacific
and greet the funnel-smoke of each
incoming "Pacific Princess" as an old
and trusted friend.
"Pacific Princesses"—how well the
designation suits them! Trim, smart-
looking in their color scheme of black
hull, white deck housings and upper
works, buff-colored funnels and maroon trim. Funnels raked like a
battle cruiser's, the delicate, racy
lines of a clipper ship, they ride the
waters of Puget Sound, Georgia
Strait and the Inside Passage to
Alaska with a grace and dignity that
bespeak their regal birth.
Princess Marguerite, Princess Kathleen, fleet sister-ships boasting all the
luxurious appointments of the latest
and largest ocean liner, speed at
twenty-one knots on the famous
Triangle route between Vancouver,
Victoria and Seattle.
How different they are from the
"R. P. Rithet" or the "Beaver"
which slapped their paddles on the
Fraser forty years ago!
Princess Jean and Princess Elizabeth, newest sisters of the fleet, not
yet two years old, proud aristocrats
fashioned with all the cunning and
loving care of Scottish shipbuilders on
the Clyde. These royal sisters, recognized as the most comfortable and
commodious coastal steamers on the
Pacific, provide service between Victoria and Vancouver on the midnight
run. Together they could give stateroom accommodation for a war-
strength regiment.
Armies of summer tourists and
sightseers who find that the North
Pacific Coast offers an unrivalled
assortment of scenery under skies that
are never too hot and cooled by
breezes that blow from the sea with a
stimulating and robustious tang, know
the Triangle Route, the scenic cruise
through the Gulf Islands, the eight-
day voyage to Alaska through the
wonderland of the Inside Passage
and the Panhandle, studded with
wooded islets, the short but breathtaking journey across the Gulf from
Vancouver to Nanaimo, where the
Esquimalt & Nanaimo Railway and
the Island Highway open the doors to
the heavily timbered areas of Vancouver Island, abounding in fish and
game.
Many, too, know the Princess
Norah and the Princess Maquinna,
two members of the royal family of
Pacific Princesses which maintain
contact between Victoria and a score
of picturesque fishing villages along
the storied West Coast of Vancouver
Island.
They have visited Nootka, quaint
Indian settlement, where the British
and Spanish held their historic conference in the eighteenth century, the
Spanish finally agreeing to abandon
the whole North Pacific to the English, and they have gone ashore at
Ucleulet, Clayoquot and Quatsino for
souvenirs.
From Victoria, Vancouver and
Seattle the "Pacific Princesses" point
the way to a hundred wonderlands—
Alaska, the West Coast of Vancouver
Island—Powell River and Comox
where the fishing is of the best,
Ocean Falls and Prince Rupert and
en route Campbell River where the
world-famous Tyee club makes its
headquarters and where fishermen
from all parts of the earth try with
might and main to whip from the
waters of that sportive stream a giant
salmon which will win for them the
bronze, the silver, or, more miraculously, the fabled gold medal of that
exclusive sportsmen's organization.
But wherever they sail, these
"Pacific Princesses," they take with
them the spirit of the great transportation system they represent.
Page 31 Alert Bay,
B.C.
NORTH ALONG THE WEST COAST
VANCOUVER ISLAND
Only a few weeks ago I found,
within easy reach of two great
cities, Vancouver and Seattle, a
breathless thrill of discovery; the joy
of new lands, of the untrodden forest
and resounding green shores.
The "Princess Norah," handsome
white ship in the Canadian Pacific
West Coast service, sails up that
outside coast of Vancouver Island and
back again. She is queen of all she
surveys. Her arrival in one of the
many busy little ports means intense
activity. Even the dogs turn out to
meet the steamer ... on two docks
handsome collies rushed madly out to
catch the rope thrown ashore, and
drag it to safety. People come down
to get the mail, to meet their friends,
to chat with the officers; it's society,
business, pleasure and profit, for the
"Princess Norah" and her sister ship
the "Princess Maquina" are the only
links with the outside world.
There are no railroads, no telegraph
lines, no telephones; no roads link
these ports with the great city of
Victoria, sitting in state at the peak
of the Island. It is no wonder that
women in these little isolated settlements watch with somewhat wistful
eyes as sophisticated and well-dressed
strangers come down the gangplank,
exclaim over the beauty of the heavy
forests . . . and go away again, leaving
silence in the deep bays.
For me that voyage north from
Victoria was a week of perfect delight.
Time dropped back for one hundred
years along that mountainous coastline, where nature is rugged as the
men whose tough spirits wrested it
from aboriginal solitude.
History was made on those shores
in the same year which saw the scattered American colonies winning their
war for independence. It was in 1778
that Captain James Cook made his
headquarters at Friendly Cove, near
the entrance to Nootka Sound. Two
ships dropped in, commanded by Lt.
John Meares, in 1778; they stayed to
build a trading post. Meares and his
ships were captured by the Spaniards,
an incident which almost brought on
another war in Europe. Not that anybody needed another war at the time...
they always kept a small war on hand.
Captain Vancouver was sent out by
the English government in 1792 to
take formal possession of the territory. He was a diplomat as well as
a hardy sailor; the treaty was signed
and sealed, far up that thundering
coast; the Nootka Convention, which
acknowledged the sovereignty of England. Northwest America became in
that significant moment another outpost of Anglo-Saxon rather than
Spanish civilization ... a Canada
rather than a Mexico. It was one of
the decisive instants in world history
. . . how many people know that?
Vancouver left, in his own handwriting, the journal of his meeting
with the Spanish commandant, Bodega Y. Quadra. Even a careworn
and travel-weary sailor paused a
moment to pay tribute to the glories of
this untouched virgin land, whose
fern-draped shores set the scene for
his quiet drama. His words were not too
enthusiastic as he spoke of its serenity,
its abundant fertility, and its endless
vistas of pleasing landscape. The traveller of to-day sees nature as untouched
and serene as Vancouver knew it.
My own ideas of a successful vacation are rather complex. I want wild
country, stimulating new experiences,
the explorer's original thrill; and I
also want perfect comfort, modern
conveniences, and the companionship
of sophisticated, clever people. I
want to enjoy the rough travel of
broken hill trails, or the high-heeled
laziness of luxurious afternoons on
deck. I found adventure to my
heart's content, and luxury which met
every demand before I thought of it.
The Canadian Pacific boats are
famous for their dining service.    The
' 'Princess Norah," although she was on
this thousand-mile run through wilderness and rocky isles, carried on the traditions of a proud fleet. Her flower-
filled dining room maintained its atmosphere of easy, gracious hospitality.
Cool mornings on deck in a snapping wind. Swimming in the many
inlets, or in the fresh-water lake at
Matilda Creek. Jolly parties in small
inns. Chatter with stolid, black-
eyed Indians, whose colorful craft in
basketry made the docks brilliant.
Rows of Japanese and Indian girls in
the big salmon canneries at Nootka,
with laughing eyes that caught every
expression and word as we sauntered
through their spotless surroundings.
Silk stockings gleamed between short
dark skirts of rubber aprons, and high
rubber boots, as these girls worked
with incredible speed. Thousands of
tins gleamed, as the long lines of
containers passed the flashing brown
hands. The trip is a series of unforgettable pictures, fixed on the film
of memory.
Port Alice, at the further end of the
run, is a buzzing hive . . . one of the
large Canadian pulp mills sending
immense quantities of high grade pulp
to the Orient and to manufacturers of
synthetic silks in the East. The little
town boasts many refinements of life.
Many of our passengers took time out
for a game of golf on the Port Alice
course . . . which is largely in a state
of nature, and offers hazards and
traps that put a new meaning on those
well-worn terms.
The ' 'Princess Norah " was a happy
ship. People show themselves in
true colors, in such intimate contact.
Officers and crew of this gallant boat
bent every effort to make their passengers happy. Travellers on board
who had been everywhere and seen
everything . . . you know the breed!
. . . were satisfied with the service and
shaken out of their habitual boredom
by the splendor of this wild coast.
Page 32 CANADIAN  PACIFIC  WORLD'S  GREATEST  TRAVEL  SYSTEM
Trans - Atlantic
1	
Trans - Canada
Trans -Pacific I
MOTOR DETOUR
IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES
BANFF LAKE LOUISE
YOHO VALLEY
EMERALD LAKE
GOLDEN
..jlorhoitf
in the
Canadian Hockies
11%
1 included in your sixty doll
n:.,:s
^isJU&fflfs
?p'tV.aH3'£"n"°(Bl"'
4<>0p.
°'L?t«r™»L°kelSiiCUl"
9*0 a
"' T?^SttDMi°""™:Cr°"
MO,
'■ ftSSoJc* W,Po».Ctenow
ALL EXPENSE
CANADIAN   PACIFIC  HOTELS
BREWSTER TRANSPORT CO
High Spots
of tbe
Canadian
Rockies
including
3anff,   Lake Louise, Yoho
Galley,    Wapta,    Emerald
Lake!   Yours    to    explore
. Yoho Valley ... in
:  breath   with   $60!
ican  Alps
ike ' Banff
Springs Hotel.
You travel de luxe in handsome
big motors. You dine, not on
special tour fare but on the
that cater to royalty and the
world's great. And, if you
reside   south   of   the   49th
tember 15th.   Comi
the Pacific Coast o
Low   Summer    Rail
Fares from all central
points.
MOTOR DRIVES IN THE ROCKIES
Operated  by
BREWSTER TRANSPORT COMPANY
MOTOR DETOUR:    Banff-Golden
The Motor Detour is designed to give Canadian Pacific eastbound or w
of seeing the scenic highlights of the Canadian Rockies in the limited
Going WEST, passengers leave their train at Banff and make the Detour
of the Brewster Transport Company. From Golden they resume their ra
leave the train at Golden, resuming their rail journey at Banff.
Highlights of the Motor Detour include Banff, Lake Louise, The Great
Yoho Valley and Emerald Lake.
Divide, the Kicking Horse Canyon,
Stop-over privilege!
: allowc
it any point a
Passengers may therefore spend three
THE LARIAT TRAIL:    Three Days-Thre
This magnificent 300 mile ride not only folio
also includes the far-famed Banff-Windermere
Hot Springs Chalet-Bungalow Camp.
RAWHIDE TRAIL TRIP:    Emerald Lake-Waterton Lakes
This 2\i day trip runs between Emerald Lake and Waterton Lakes (in both directi
Horse Canyon, Columbia River Valley and the Crow's Nest Pass.   Overnight st
Hot Springs Chalet-Bungalow Camp and Blairmore.
BANFF GENERAL DRIVE
t round Banff including the Sulphur Springs,
BANFF-LAKE LOUISE
ith a stop at Johnston Canyon.   Operated i
Falo Park, Tunnel Mou
LAKE LOUISE to EMERALD LAKE
via yOHO VALLEY
it Divide and along the Canyon of the Kicking Horse River.    42
LAKE LOUISE TO MORAINE LAKE
AND VALLEY OF THE TEN PEAKS
YOHO PARK CIRCLE TOUR
FROM FIELD
our of Yoho Park for those with limited time at their disposal. C i    ii   A       I   A  N c : r .. Rates  are  Low
where the Peaks are High
Feature
Events!
CALGARY
STAMPEDE
July 11-16
WILLINGDON
CUP
July 18-23
INDIAN DAYS
July 26-28
ALPINE CLUB
CAMP
July 18-August 1
OFFICIAL
TRAIL RIDE
July 29-August 2
PRINCE OF
WALES
TROPHY
August 15-20
Chalet-Bungalow CampS. . . .   American Plan $5.50 per day
Emerald Lake Chalet  " from   7.00 per day
(two in a room)
Chateau Lake Louise  •• from   9.00 per day
(two in a room)
Banff Springs Hotel (June & Sept.) " from 10.00 per day
(Minimum one week)
Banff Springs Hotel X^uttason *™    7.00 per day
CHALET-BUNGALOW GAMPS
(Open June 15 to Sept. 15)
American Plan
Castle Mountain	
Radium Hot Springs..
Yoho Valley	
Lake Wapta	
Lake O'Hara	
Moraine Lake	
$5.50 per person per day.
Guests requiring accommodation
for portions of day will be charged
as follows:—
Breakfast, $1.00; Lunch. $1.25;
Dinner, $1.50.   Cabin $2.00 per per-
( This camp is two days' ride from Banff, and rate including horses
Mount Assiniboine. . . A     and guides, stop over night at half-way camp in both direc-
Open July 1 to Sept. 1 [    tions, is $10.00 per person per day.
TEA HOUSES
(Open June 15 to Sept. 15)
European Plan
Natural Bridge. f Accommodates 4 people
Plain of Six Glaciers... < « 10     "
Twin Falls I Room $2Q0 per person
Kicking Horse Canyon, f No Sleeping
Lake Agnes \    Accommodation
Breakfast $1.00
I Lunch   1.25
[Dinner   1.25
,| Afternoon Tea.    .50 or A la Carte
In Chalet:
EMERALD LAKE CHALET
FIELD, B.C.
(Open June 15 to Sept. 15)
American Plan
per person
Single Room with bath $9.00
Double Room with bath   8.00
Single Room without bath  8.00
Double Room without bath  7.00
In Cabins:
Lake Front Cabins, Two Rooms with communicating bath $9.00
Other Cabins,  Two Rooms with communicating bath  8.00
Single Cabins with bath—minimum 2 persons  9.00
Single Cabins with bath—for one person 11.00
Cabins with toilet and basin,  no bath  9.00
Guests requiring accommodation for
portions of day will
be charged as
follows:
Breakfast.. . $1.00
Lunch     1.25
Dinner     1.50
Special Reductions:
To guests staying one week or longer, and less than one month—A reduction of
$1.00 per person per day. #
To guests staying one month or longer—A reduction of $2.00 per person per day.
Children—7 years of age and under—half rates. CHATEAU LAKE LOUISE
LAKE LOUISE, Alta.
(Open June 15 to Sept. 15)
American Plan
^f- July and August
f Other months
Single Room and meals, per person...
Double Room and meals, per person..
Parlor of suite	
Special Reduced Rates for stay of Two
Weeks or Longer
Meal Rates .
Pipestone Range
i       View
$10.00
9.00
Lake View
$12.00
11.00
10.00 to 12.00
Pipestone Range
+       View
$10.00
9.00
Lake View
$12.00
11.00
10.00 to 12.00
/To guests staying two full weeks or longer—A reduction of $1.00 per person
\   per day.
Children, seven years and under—Half Rate.
No deduction for Meals not taken.
Breakfast $1.25
Lunch   1.50
Dinner   2.00
BANFF SPRINGS HOTEL
BANFF, Alta.
(Open May 28 to Sept. 26)
European Plan
ir July and August
f Other months
Typical Rooms:
Single room	
Double room	
Limited Number of Rooms on higher
floors:
Single room	
Double room	
Suites—Parlor, Bedroom, Bath:
One person	
Two persons	
Parlor, Two Bedrooms with baths:
Two persons	
Three persons	
Four persons	
Special Reduced Rates for Stay of Two
Weeks or Longer (European Plan)
Special Rates, American Plan
June and September
Family Rates.
Meal Rates.
Sulphur Mountain
-i.      View
$ 9.00-$10.00
14.00- 15.00
$ 7.00
12.00
Bow Valley
View
$10.00-$12.00
16.00- 18.00
$ 8 00
14.00
$20.00 and up
35.00 and up
$35.00 and up
$40.00, $45.00, $50.00, $60.00
$50.00, $60.00, $65.00
Sulphur Mountain
•j-        View
Bow Valley
•j-     View
$ 7.00
13.00
$ 7.00
12.00
$ 8.00
15.00
$ 8.00
14.00
$20.00 and up
35.00 and up
$35.00 and up
$40.00, $45.00, $50.00, $60.00
$50.00, $60.00, $65.00
Rooms—To guests staying two full weeks—A reduction of 50 cents per person
per day.
To guests staying one month or longer—A reduction of $1.00 per
person per day.
Suites-
-To guests staying two full weeks—A reduction of 10%.
To guests staying one month or longer—A reduction of 20%.
For stay of one week or longer:—
Single Room with bath and Table d'Hote Meals-1 person $10.00per day and up.
Double Room withbathandTable d'HoteMeals-2persons$18.00per day andup.
Special rates for families with children quoted on application.
Children, seven years and under—Half Rate.
A la Carte, also Table d'Hote:
Breakfast $1.25
Lunch   1.50
Dinner   2.00
LOW SUMMER RAIL FARES
Special Reduced
Round Trip
30 Day Limit
Reduced Round Trip
Fares for Season
Return Limit October 31 Green Fees at Banff
Green fees at Banff Springs Hotel Golf Course are
day $3.00, week $15.00, month $50.00 and season $75.00.
Special Family Rates: Regular rate for the first member
of the family and half the regular rate for each additional
member.
A fully equipped pro-shop is operated at the Clubhouse.
Caddies are also available.
Rates for Ponies and Guides
Established by the Canadian Government:
per hour   per half day    per day
Saddle horse $1.50 $3.00 $4.50
Guide with pony 2.00 4.50 7.00
Pack horse .... .... 2.50
One day consists of 9 hours and not more than 20 miles.
Two Amateur Championships
The Willingdon Cup, July 18-23: Presented by the
Viceroy of India, and former Governor-General of Canada.
Open to Hotel Guest Amateurs—members in good standing of any recognized Golf Club, and playing under club
handicaps. Also to members of Banff Golf Club. Winner to receive an engraved miniature of the original cup.
Prince of Wales Trophy, August 15-20: Presented to
Golf Club by His Royal Highness, the Prince of Wales.
Open to all amateur members in good standing of any
recognized Golf Club. The winner to receive a suitable
engraved miniature of the trophy.
In addition, minor periodical competitions are held
throughout the season. Full particulars from any
Canadian Pacific Agent or the Manager of Banff Springs
Hotel.
Trail Riders of the Canadian
Rockies
An order called the "Trail Riders of the Canadian
Rockies" holds an official riding and camping trip each
summer starting from Banff. The date of this ride is July
29-August 2, and the rate is $50, which includes horse,
food, and share of tent.
Present plans are to explore the Mt. Assiniboine region
and the approach which has been chosen to "the Matter-
horn of the Rockies" is perhaps the most spectacular of
any trail in the Canadian Rockies.
Further particulars from the Secretary-Treasurer,
Room 318, Windsor Station, Montreal: or from L. S.
Crosby, Western Secretary, Banff, Alta.
Swiss Guides9 Rates
Swiss Guides are men, thoroughly experienced in
mountain climbing, gained by years of service in the
Swiss Alps and latterly in the Canadian Rockies, who
were engaged in Switzerland and placed in the Canadian
Rockies some years ago by the Canadian Pacific Railway,
to guide patrons desiring to climb in the Rockies and
requiring the services of expert climbers. The Swiss
village, "Edelweiss," has been established one mile
west of Golden, as their permanent residence.
During the season the Guides' headquarters are at
Chateau Lake Louise, but, if required, they will arrange
to accompany parties for climbing trips from our other
resorts.
Application for their services should be made to the
Manager of Chateau Lake Louise at least a week or two
in advance of time required.
Rate for each Guide is $7.00 per day and sustenance, the
Guide providing ropes and ice axes.
Fishing and Hunting Seasons
Special regulations concerning Fishing in Banff, Yoho,
Kootenay and Glacier National Parks of Canada:—
License.—No fishing license is required to angle for
sport purposes only in the waters open for fishing in the
Parks.    The open seasons in the Parks are:
Great Lake Trout.—May 16 to August 31. Limit of
catch: 50 pounds per day, unless one fish weighs more than
50 pounds. In no case may more than 5 Great Lake
Trout be caught in any day, even though the 5 fish caught
and killed weigh less than 50 pounds.
Other varieties of sport fish.—July 1 to September 30.
Limited: within 10 miles from a railway line, 10 fish
(limit 20 pounds); from any of the other waters open for
fishing, 15 fish (limit 30 pounds). No fish less than 8
inches in length may be retained.
For Hunting Information write: General Tourist Agent,
Windsor Station, Montreal.
Alpine Club Camp—July 18—Aug. 1
The Alpine Club of Canada, with headquarters established in a singularly handsome Club House at Banff,
holds a camp each year in the Canadian Rockies and
welcomes all who have the ambition to climb. The
camp^ will be held from July 18 to August 1 this year in
the vicinity of Glacier, B.C.   Rate $3 a day.
Indian Days—July 26-28
Indian Days at Banff is one of the most colorful spectacles on the North American continent. Between three
and four hundred Stony Indians come from the Morley
reserve, 40 miles east of Banff, for their tribal sports.
The tribe is all mounted and their color schemes are
exceedingly wonderful.
Rowboat and Canoe Rates
Per § Day Per Day
Per Hour 5 hrs 10 hrs.
Foroneperson     $.25 $1.00 $1.50
For two persons 50 1.50 2.50
For three persons  .75 2.00 3.00
For four or more persons.      1.00 2.50 3.50
Charge for boatman       1.00 6.00
Bow River Motor Launch Trips: 10.30 a.m., 2.30 p.m.,
4.30 p.m., round trip 16 miles, time 1| hrs, fare $1.00.
Evening trip: 8.00 p.m., 10 miles, 1 hr„ 75c.
Calgary Stampede—July 11-16
Calgary Stampede is the greatest event of its kind in
the world, contestants coming from all parts of the
continent to compete. All the typically "rodeo" events
are featured—roping, broncho busting, covered wagon
racing, Indian races, etc. Each year, too, there is the
Stampede Ball when all Calgary ^ goes carnival. No
visitor to the West should miss this spectacle.
The "Hotel Palliser," owned and operated by the Canadian Pacific, is the ideal headquarters. Rates range
from $3.00 per day, European Plan. Motoring Trips in the Rockies
Brewster Transport Co., Limited, are official concessionaires for Canadian Pacific Hotels and
Chalet-Bungalow Camps, and have offices and representatives in Banff Springs Hotel, Chateau Lake
Louise and Emerald Lake Chalet; at Lake Wapta and Yoho Valley Chalet-Bungalow Camps, and at
Banff, Lake Louise, Field and Golden Stations at train time.
Banff
No.
1.   General Drive:
10 a.m., 1.30 and 2.15 p.m.
2| hours: Motor Coach
$3.00
No. 2.
To Lake Louise via Johnston Canyon:
Lv. 9 a.m., 2 and 4 p.m.    Return, leave 9 a.m.
One way, 3 hours:   Motor Coach        $5.00
Return, all day: Motor Coach 8.25
No. 3.   To Lake Minnewanka:
2.30 p.m.    Combined motor  and launch  trip-
3 hours: Motor Coach
$3.25
No. 4.   Lariat Trail—3 days, 3 National Parks:
10 a.m. Mondays and Thursdays (July and August)
Motor only, $30.00; ALL EXPENSE $50.00
Overnight stops at Emerald Lake and Radium
Hot Springs.
Lake Louise
No. 1.   Moraine Lake and Valley of the Ten Peaks:
10 a.m., 1.30 and 4 p.m.
2\ hours, Motor Coach $2.50
No. 2.   To Banff via Johnston Canyon:
Lv. 9 a.m., 2 and 4 p.m.    Return, leave 9 a.m.
One way, 3 hours: Motor Coach $5.00
Return, all day:    Motor Coach 8.25
No. 3.    To Emerald Lake via Yoho Valley:
Lv. 9 a.m., 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. Return, lv. 10 a.m.
One way, 3 hours:   Motor Coach $5.00
Return, all day:      Motor Coach 8.25
Emerald Lake
No. 1.    Yoho Valley (Takakkaw Falls):
Leave 9.15 a.m. and 4.15 p.m.
Return, leave 9.15 a.m.
One way, 2 hours:   Motor Coach
Return
No. 2.   To Lake Louise via Yoho Valley:
Leave 9.30 a.m., 2.30 and 4.15 p.m.
Return, leave 9.30 a.m
One way, 3 hours:
Return, all day:
No. 3.    To Golden:
Leave 11.45 a.m.
One way, 3 hours:
Return, all day:
Motor Coach
Motor Coach
$2.75
4.50
$5.00
8.25
Return, leave 11.45 a.m.
Motor Coach $5.00
Motor Coach 8.25
Motor Detour
Banff—Golden (June 1-Sept. 15)
Leave Banff Daily 4 p.m.
Leave Golden Daily 2 p.m.
Overnight stop at Lake Louise
Across the main chain of the Rockies, leaving the train
at the east or west entrance and resuming the rail journey
at the opposite end in an elapsed time of only 24 hours if
necessary (though stop-overs are allowed en route)
visiting all the highlights on the way.
Transportation only $15.00
General drive at Banff...    3.00
Transfer to Banff Depot.       . 50 TOTAL    $18.50
Rawhide Trail (July and August)
Emerald Lake to Waterton Lakes
or reverse
Leave Waterton Lakes
"      Emerald Lake
No. 4.   Lariat Trail—3 days, 3 National Parks:
9 a.m. Mondays and Thursdays (July and August)
Motor only, $30.00.    ALL EXPENSE $50.00
Overnight stops at Emerald Lake and Radium
Hot Springs.
All operations based on Mountain Time
Saturdays
Wednesdays
3.00 p.m.
10.00 a.m.
Overnight stops at Radium Hot Springs
and Blairmore
Through the Kicking Horse Canyon, Columbia River
Valley and Crow's Nest Pass.    Time 2\ days.
Motor only $30.00: ALL EXPENSE $45.00
ALASKA
Vancouver - Victoria - Seattle to Skagway and Return  .... $90 up
Two sailings each week by the Princess Louise, Princess Charlotte and Princess Alice. These palatial
steamers sail by the Inside Passage and call each way
at Alert Bay, B.C., Prince Rupert, B.C., Ketchikan,
Wrangell and Juneau, Alaska, also on the northbound
voyage at beautiful Taku Glacier at the head of Taku Inlet.
Twelve-Day DeLuxe Cruise   -   Minimum Return Fare
At Skagway connection is made with the White Pass &
Yukon Route for interior points including Lake Bennett,
West Taku Arm, Atlin, B.C., White Horse and Dawson,
Yukon Territory.
$125
August 9-21: From Seattle, Victoria and Vancouver
to British Columbia and Alaska ports. All the regular
ports and many out-of-the-way ports and channels are
touched, including Bella Coola, B.C., Ocean Falls, B.C.,
Stewart, B.C. and the Portland Canal, the Behm Canal
including the Punchbowl and Walker Cove, Sitka, former
capital of Alaska. Your ship the palatial Princess Charlotte.    All "at sea" diversions. . .  a glorious holiday.

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