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Fishing and shooting on the Canadian Pacific Railway Sandys, Ed. W.; Canadian Pacific Railway Company. Passenger Department 1891

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Array /£'<?-, A  SENSIBLE  ROAD
^apadiai? paeifie Railway
Is the Most Substantial and Perfectly Built Railway on the Continent
of America, and superbly equipped with the finest, rolling stock
modern skill can produce. Coaches, Dining and Sleeping Cars are
triumphs of luxurious elegance, and excel in* stability and beauty of
finish any in the world.
Will find the New Route _through Canada from the Atlantic to the
Pacific unapproached for magnificence and variety of scenery by any
other line of travel. The rugged wilderness of the North Shore of
Lake Superior, the picturesque Lake of the Woods Region, the
Billowy Prairies of the Canadian Northwest, the stately grandeur of
the Rockies, the marvels of the Selkirks and Gold Range, the
wondious beauty of the Pacific Coast are traversed by this Great
Railway. Beyond its western terminus its magnificent and recently
built steel steamships (China and Japan Line) traverse the Pacific to
Yokohoma, Shanghai and Hong Kong at express speed. Being
entirely controlled and managed by one Company, the Canadian
Pa ;ific Railway and steamships offer special advantages to all
travelers. It is the Best, the Safest and Fastest Route from Ocean
to Ocean. The Company have spared no expense in providing for the
wants and comfort of their patrons, as their line of Dining Cars and
Mountain Hotels will at all times testify, being supplied with all that
the most fastidious can desire.    Their
Are provided with Sofa Sections and Bathing Accommodation, and
offer all the comfort and convenience of first-class hotels. They are
specially constructed to admit of the scenery being viewed in all
Tickets at Rates Lower than by any other Line
insist on getting your tickets via the
When agents are unable to supply tickets to the desired point purchase to Montreal, Toronto, Prescott, Vancouver or any station on the
Canadian Pacific Railway and there apply to this company's agents.
Full particulars as to routes and rates, maps, pamphlets, etc., can
be obtained on application to"
C. E. McPHERSON, Ass't Gen'l Passenger Agent,
211 Washington St., Boston, and St. Johty N. B.
E. V. SKINNER, Gen'l Eastern Agent, 353 Broadway, New York.
W. F. EGG, District Passenger Agent, Windsor Street Station, Montreal.
J. F. LEE, District Freight and Pass r Agent, 232 So. Clark Street, Chicago.
C. SHEEHY, District Pass'r Agent, n Fort Street W., Detroit, Mich.
W. R. CALLAWAY, District Pass'r Agent, 11S King Street W., Toronto.
R. KERR, Gen'l Pass'r Agent, W. & P. Divs., Winnipeg.
D. E. BROWN, Ass't Gen'l Pass'r Agent, W. & P. Divs., Vancouver, B. C.
M. M. STERN, Chronicle Building, San Francisco. Cal.
G. B. DODWELL, General Agent China and Japan, Shanghai, China.
ARCHER BAKER, European Traffic Agent,
7 James Street, Liverpool, England.
25 Gordon Street, Glasgow? Scotland. '
67 and 68 King William, London, E. C. Eng.
105 Market Street, Manchester, England.
D. McNICOLL, General Passenger Agent, MONTREAL Fishing      *
By   ED>.   W.   SANDYS.
Montreal, 1891. Qtifrzx*
Poem : Let's Away to the Wilderness	
North Shore of the St. Lawrence, and Lake St. John	
■ Lakes Megantic and Moosehead	
New Brunswick	
The Rideau Lakes	
Sharbot Lake 	
River Trent and Adjacent Waters, Peterboro	
Lakes North of the Trent	
The Covers and Waters of Western Ontario	
The Mississippi River and Lakes	
The Ottawa River and its Tributaries	
The Mattawa River and the Upper Ottawa	
Lake Nipissing and Trout Lake	
Poem : The Pleasures of Angling  \~m.
Sturgeon Falls to Port Arthur, including Nepigon, Steel and Rivers
of North Shore	
Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan, and Wisconsin ...  	
Canadian Northwest, the Rocky Mountains, and British Columbia	
Close Seasons for Game and Fish, Province of Ontario	
" " " " " Quebec	
" " " " " New Brunswick	
" " " " " Nova Scotia	
" " " " Manitoba	
" " " " " British Columbia	
" " " " State of Maine	
" "        Vermont	
" " " " " Michigan	
" " " Wisconsin	
Officials and Agents Canadian Pacific Railway	
Special Publications     	
. 4
^xincipai &lln&tvati0n&+
" What did you say that Fish Weighed ?'
Ruffed Grouse	
Map of Nepigon River 	
Sault Ste. Marie Rapids	
The Very Spot	
Rocky Mountain Sheep. ,,...,	
''Jjfffi     j    )S^
anxious   ones   who   are   puzzling   their
brains to decide where they will spend a
fishing or shooting holiday, will do well
to be guided by this little book.    As will
be learned by a perusal of its pages, the
Canadian  Pacific Railway offers induce-
l'1   ments of no ordinary nature  to the
if/ sportsman and fisherman,  and those
'-  who try the fishing resorts and shooting grounds mentioned herein will find
them exactly as represented, for the
descriptions are not overdrawn.
Many of the localities referred to are situated
in new territory that has been but recently made
accessible, and any one possessing a proper knowledge  of   his  craft  can  readily guess  their great
Fault is frequently found with books of this
nature that they do not give full and complete information, the
readers forgetting that descriptions of a vast extent of country have
to be condensed into the space afforded by a small volume. The
shooting grounds of Canada and her fishing waters are of such great
extent and so numerous, and so many of them are reached by our
road, that it is simply impossible to do justice to half of them in
such limited space. We do not propose to take you by the hand
and lead you into the wilds, and hold your rifle while you pot )-our
game, or put a trout or bass upon the hook for you, for that would
be treating you like a baby. You are a sportsman, and know how
to secure your own quarry, if you can but once reach its haunts, and
this book will insure that. It has been written by a practical sportsman of long and varied experience, and the result of that experience
is herewith offered you. •
Canada unquestionably now offers the broadest and most attractive field for sport of any country in the world. Of all the North
American continent, once a veritable " Sportman's Paradise," her
picturesque wilds and noble waters have alone been spared the
attacks of the game butchers and fish destroyers who worked such
havoc in the United States. The forests and streams of Canada were
practically inaccessible to professionals, while that unsavory class
were slaughtering the game wholesale in the neighboring country.
When the Canadian Pacific Railway was completed and a way opened FISHING  AND   SHOOTING.
to the haunts of the game, it was too late for the market shooters to
complete their work of destruction ; for proper legislation had been
secured meanwhile for the protection of beast, bird and fish, and to
this may be attributed the present abundance of all of these. Large
tracts of country are yet awaiting development, practically in the
same condition as the whole continent was when first a European
foot was planted on the new land. Our road has rendered accessible
vast tracts, which prior to its completion were known to and traversed
but by the native Redskins and the daring pioneers of barter, and in
consequence in these romantic wilds game is still as plentiful as
when the first rifle-shot woke the echoes of their magnificent forests.
By consulting a Canadian Pacific Railway map, it will be noticed
that several important points may be reached by both rail and
steamer, and to go by one and return by the other furnishes a delightful change of trip which will naturally commend itself to all.
It is unnecessary to dwell upon the superb accommodation for
travelers by our road; it is already well known to the public, and
you can be borne to your destination, be it the wildest spot in the
wilderness, as comfortably as though you were in your own parlor,
and you will find courteous attendants ready and willing to carry out
your wishes, and insure your having a thoroughly pleasant trip ; and
so " Success to )rou."
The laws governing fishing and shooting in the several Provinces
and States referred to have been reprinted in condensed form for the
guidance of all concerned.
"well, so long you fellows."
A number of the cuts of game, tailpieces, etc., were drawn expressly for
this publication ; for the use of others we are indebted to Messrs. G. P. Putnam
& Sons, New York, and to the publishers of Outing. LET'S  AWAY  TO   THE  WILDERNESS.
'Art sick of the city's rush and strife,
And the endless chafe of a business life,
The-crush and the roar of the busy street,
The jar of pavement, and stifling heat,
The endless toiling for dear-bought gain,
The wearying tension of nerve and brain?
Then cast all from you and hie away
For a glorious, restful holiday.
The rod hangs long on the lonely wall,
The tackle is hid 'neath a dusty pall,
The reel has forgotten the song it sings,
The flies would fain stretch their deadly wings ;
The basket can boast no tempting spread,
And the flask is cold and its spirit fled.
Man! is it right that such things should be ?
Why clank your chain when you might be free ?
From grand Atlantic's heaving breast,
O'er New "Brunswick's hills with forests dressed,
Past mountains and lakes of famous Maine,
O'er quaint Quebec's far-reaching plain,
Through fair Ontario's fruitful land,
Past cold Superior's rock-bound strand,
O'er the Northland's wondrous seas of grass,
'Mid the Rocky marvels of peak and pass—
On, till Pacific's billows play
In the golden light of a softer day. *
'Tis a mighty flight! but the bands of steel,
The iron horse, and the whirring wheel
Have baffled time and laugh at space,
And will bear you swift in a flying race
Whither you wish, that you may find
The heal-all for o'er-strained nerve and mind
For Nature's pharmacy spreads afar
Beside the rails of the C. P. R.
The breeze sighs soft with a breath divine,
And whispers a welcome from the pine;
The rocks re-echo the syren calls
Of a thousand rushing foamy falls;
The game trout leaps in the shadowed pool,
The deer drinks long of the waters cool,
And moose and caribou safely stray,
For your rod and rifle are far away.
Leave, then, the desk, and ease the strain ;
Leave the changeful stocks and the doubtful gain.
The breath of the woods gives strength anew,
And tunes the nerves till they answer true.
Seek Nature's shrine that she may bless,
And lose your care in the wilderness ;
For the grouse is sounding his rallying drum,
And the voice of forest and stream says " Come!" FISHING  AND   SHOOTING.
ATRIAL of some of the small lakes and streams, so plentiful
along the north shore of the St. Lawrence River between Montreal and Quebec, should prove a most satisfactory undertaking to any one who is satisfied with killing fish of moderate weight.
North of the river, some miles inland, the rugged Laurentian range
of mountains runs parallel to the course of the St. Lawrence, and
among them rises stream after stream, feeders of the multitude of
small lakes and the greater rivers, and one and all literally teem with
trout. In general aspect this region bears no slight resemblance to
the Muskoka Territory ; but it is, if anything, the more picturesque
of (he two, and is certainly a far superior region for the angler. It
is rough and wild to a degree in many places, and to fish it properly,
not unfrequently means "roughing it" in addition ; but that is seldom a serious drawback to the enthusiast, and perhaps is considered
sometimes an advantage. Anglers from Montreal generally find
good sport near St. Jerome, and on the small lakes and their feeders
within seven or eight miles of New Glasgow, these points being but
a short run from Montreal. Half and three-quarter pound trout are
good fish in these waters, and, while much larger ones are but
seldom taken, there are plenty of the size mentioned.
Among the hills northward of St. Barthelemi, and distant from
that station fifteen miles, are waters that will be found well worth a
trial; and the headwaters and tributaries of the St. Maurice River,
which flows into the St. Lawrence at Three Rivers, are abundantly
stocked with fair-sized fish. The celebrated Mastigouche chain of
lakes are reached by stage from St. Gabriel, the terminus of the Joliet
branch, and distant from Montreal seventy-eight miles. The headquarters for angLers is the Mastigouche House, which is managed in
a style that is sure to please. The Shawenegan River, reached by
stage from Lac a la Tortue (Turtle Lake) or Three Rivers, is also'
sure to furnish heavy strings of trout as handsome and gamy as can
be taken anywhere, and big ones are fairly plentiful. The Shawenegan House will be found a comfortable, well-managed hotel, where
no effort is spared to oblige visitors or insure their finding good
The station of Portneuf, thirty miles from the city of Quebec, is
a most promising objective point. A drive from there about fifteen
miles up the river will bring one to surprisingly good fishing in the
river above and below the falls. In an afternoon and evening a well-
known angler of Montreal killed sixteen dozen trout, and they were
as handsome a lot as man could wish to see. Two pounds and a
half was reached by several, and the smallest was over half a pound,
the majority ranging between the latter weight and a pound and a
quarter. It was in July (the best month on that water), and wherever
a little stream poured its icy current into the river the fish fairly swarmed and rose so eagerly that, in his own words, "the water
fairly boiled with trout at every cast." This record has been questioned more than once, but it can be proved if need be. Nearly due
north, and about ioo miles distant from the city of Quebec, lies the
much-written-of Lake St. John, the " Pikouagami " (Flat Lake) of
the Indians, and the headwaters of the wonderful Saguenay River,
and the home of the ouananiche. By means of the Quebec & Lake
St. John Railway, this lake is now easily reached, the line running to
its very shores.
Writers differ astonishingly in describing this lake, some, who
probably have never seen it, stating that its surroundings are wild and
picturesque in the fullest sense of the term; others, and they correctly, speak of the scenery as being beautiful at points here and
there upon the lake, but improving wonderfully if the tourist
explores some of the tributary rivers. It must be remembered that
this is no newly discovered spot, as many people imagine. Over 200
years ago it was well known, and at present instead of the howling
wilderness of some writers, the visitor will find many well-tilled farms
and several small villages upon the south and west shores.
Chief of these villages is Roberval, the lake terminus of the railway. Here the Hotel Roberval, a large, well-built new house, offers
comfortable accommodation for 100 guests. Montagnais Indians
may be secured as guides from their village close by. They are
thoroughly posted in- regard to the best localities for fishing, and
have plenty of excellent canoes. A steamer plies between Roberval
and all interesting points upon the lake, taking anglers and camp
outfits to Grande Decharge and other noted fishing resorts. Tents,
canoes, camp supplies, etc., can all be hired at the hotel at moderate
rates. At Grande Decharge a permanent camp has been constructed,
with ample room for twenty persons. 0
Eighteen rivers, large and small, empty into Lake St. lohn ; in
one or two of these the ouananiche furnish good sport, and all of
them are well stocked with speckled trout. Of these the Peribonca
is navigable by steamer for thirt}' miles from its mouth, the Ticouapee
for the same distance, the Mistassini for about twenty miles, and the
AShuapmouchouan (the river where they watch the moose, in Indian
talk) for about fifteen miles. The Ouiatchouan River is perhaps the
most attractive, its special feature being Ouiatchouan Falls, a noble
cascade falling 280 feet. Another tributary of the lake is the Meta-
betchouan River, at the mouth of which is a hotel, Poole's, with room
for a limited number. This house is the headquarters of the Fish
and Game Club, of Springfield, Mass., and may be reached by
steamer from Roberval, or from Chambord Junction, Lake St. John,
distant five miles. At this latter point another small hotel has lately
been erected.
It would be difficult to imagine a more attractive centre for the
canoer and fisherman than this broad lake, with its hundreds of miles
of tributary rivers, extending far into the great lone land, of which
present description amounts to little more than mere guesswork.
With his skilled  Indian  guides  and  light canoe the explorer can FISHING  AND  SHOOTING.
follow the streams at will, penetrating to the lonely haunts of big
game in regions rarely or never visited by a white man, traveling for
day after day upon streams swarming with trout, and finding sport
unlimited, and countless charming subjects for brush, pencil, or
camera, until the fascinating trip is ended.
In Lake St. John and several of the rivers are the wonderful
ouananiche. Marvellous tales have been told of them ; and, while
writers disagree in details, especially as regards their size, all are
unanimous in declaring that the ouananiche is one of the gamest,
strongest, and hardest fighting fish that ever tested skill and tackle.
You may read surprising stories of their weight; but, if you get fast
to one of five pounds or over, you can rest satisfied that you are in luck
indeed, and you will speedily find five pounds of ouananiche are
amply sufficient to have on your tackle at one time. Their strength
and agility are simply astounding ; they dart hither and thither with
electric rushes, and leap wildly into the air in a fashion calculated
to rattle the coolest hand with a rod, e'en though he be an old salmon
fisher, and when the long, hard fight is done and the victim safely
landed, it is a prize of which any one is justified in feeling proud.
The outlet of Lake St. John is in the Grande Decharge and
Petite Decharge, which finally unite and form the great Saguenay
River. The swirling current of the Grande Decharge rushes down
furiously, bearing great patches of foam which turn and evolute here
and there in unceasing motion. Among these the ouananiche feed,
and on a good day you may see an endless succession of broad tails
showing and disappearing as the fish rise after their prey. Hook
one, and your work is cut out for you. He will in all likelihood
give you an exhibition of high and lofty tumbling that you will never
forget, and possibly will leap bodily into the canoe or over it (they
have done both repeatedly), and tax your utmost skill and patience
ere he yields. A salmon cast with Jock Scott, Curtis, or Silver
Doctor flies is the most effective as a rule, though at low water smaller
flies and finer tackle must be used. Heavier fish may be taken by
trolling on the lake, but a four or five-pounder is fully as strong as a
salmon of double that weight, and will afford better sport. A visit
to Lake St. John and an experience of the powers of this bright-
mailed acrobat are sure to ever after rank among the angler's most
treasured memories.
Perhaps the greatest pleasure connected with a trip to Lake St.
John would be, when leaving, to hire canoes and guides and descend
the Saguenay to Chicoutimi, and from thence by steamer back to
Quebec. This trip will reveal scenery that is unrivalled ; and, while
it is hard, and the way marked with several wild rapids, they can
usually be run safely enough, and always portaged, of course, and I
know no more tempting adventure for the true canoeman than the
glorious rush down the rapid stream in a staunch canoe with experienced men to guide the craft. You don't take your life in your
hands, but simply make a thrilling dash amid snowy foam and scattering spray—safe enough in all conscience, with skillful hands at
the paddles, but not otherwise. NORTH SHORE OF ST. LAWRENCE AND LAKE ST. JOHN.  9
Between the city of Quebec and Lake St. John the Quebec &
Lake St. John Railway traverses a country of rare beauty, the route
leading amid the picturesque Laurentian Mountains, crossing several
streams, and touching upon some fine lakes noted for the abundance
and large size of the trout found in them. Quite a number of these
lakes are controlled by fishing clubs, but two of the largest, Lac
Edouard and Lake Kiskissink, have been leased by the railway company, and are open to all visitors. Each contains plenty of big trout,
and are among the most beautiful scenery of all the attractive district.
Upon the shore of Lac Edouard, and but a few yards from the railway, is a comfortable hotel, the Laurentides House, where fishermen
can obtain camp outfits, guides, canoes, skiffs, etc., at reasonable
rates. Two small steamers ply upon Lac Edouard, and may be
utilized for all sorts of delightful excursions upon the lake, or as
means of easily reaching camping-grounds close to the shadowy
haunts of trout, A summer vacation can be right pleasantly spent
in visiting these waters, and killing brilliantly colored trout weighing
as high as five pounds. Grouse are also fairly plentiful along the
line, and it is also an excellent country for caribou after winter fairly
sets in.
"what did you say that fish weighed?' 10
AMONG all the countless waters and shooting grounds reached
by the Canadian Pacific Railway, but few can offer more
varied attractions to the sportsman than these two famous lakes
and the lesser lakes, streams, and ponds surrounding them, unless,
indeed, we seek the north shore of Lake Superior or the Canadian"
Northwest. Those who have not the time to spare for a journey to
the far north-land, car find shooting and fishing enough to satisfy
them by visiting these grand waters and testing the portions of the
Province of Quebec and the State of Maine adjacent to them. The
fame of the Rangeley Lakes of Maine is known to every reader of
sporting literature, and all that has been written of them will apply
equally  well to this  territory.
Nor   is   it  necessary
to undertake a long and
tiresome journey to reach
this    attractive    region.
The opening of the Canadian    Pacific   Railway's
" Short Line " from Mon-
^g treal   to    the    Maritime
s^ Provinces, renders it easy
; of access, and the traveler
-Montreal  his initial point
j, will find solid comfort all
the way and only a  short run   by rail
before the Mecca of his pilgrimage is gained.
Both Megantic and Moosehead can boast of beautiful surroundings in the fullest sense of the term, and both are capital points for
those contemplating spending a holiday with canoe and camera,
exploring the waters by day and sleeping beneath the canvas dome of
a tent at night. There is no fear of the changeful panorama of water
and island, mountain and forest growing monotonous, or of the voyageur finding himself, after a week's explorations, sighing for fresh
fields. The manifold interesting features of these magnificent forest
jewels are of the kind that wear well, and a man might cruise about
for several months, and then go away with many attractive points yet
unvisited. But while the lover of the silent craft and the camera
can find abundant opportunities for gratifying his taste, it is to the
angler and sportsman that this region specially appeals.
To say that '' big game "—moos*,, caribou and deer—may be
considered abundant, hardly conveys the proper idea; for it must
be remembered that here is the chosen " stamping-ground " of the
antlered monarchs of the wilds, and he must needs be a poor hand at
shooting who cannot kill enough big game to satisfy any one worthy
of the, name of sportsman.    But it must not be imagined that the Lake megantic and moosehead lake.
is   very    apt
caribou as
animals mentioned can be slaughtered at will, particularly moose
and caribou. A hunter of any experience will know better than this,
and the novice will learn that even in this favored locality they do
not stand around like cattle in a barnyard to be " potted " by any
one able to pull a trigger. But even a green hand should be able to
readily secure a deer, if aided by an experienced guide ; for the common deer is simply abundant, and residents think no more of the
capture of one than a sportsman in one of the over-hunted covers
thinks of bagging a ruffed grouse. Therefore, even the tyro can
safely depend upon securing a trophy to prove his prowess to his
friends at home, and he may also get a shot at a moose or caribou,
and perhaps kill either, or both, if his nerve  fails  not—which it
to do. Speaking of moose and
being plentiful is not to be taken
in the same sense as when
the term is applied to deer;
but you can go to these
grounds satisfied that you
have a most promising chance
of seeing both ere your holiday is done, with a certainty
i of getting  deer  if   you can
handle a rifle at all, and killing
plenty of ruffed grouse, and
perhaps having a crack at a
black bear by way of variety.
The favorite method of hunt-
__ ing at Lake Megantic is
rj- "jacking" (or fire-hunting)
upon the water-courses and
bogs. It is a murderous
method, maybe, but at the same time very fascinating, to go noiselessly gliding along in a canoe through the darkness of night,
until the jack-light is reflected by the glowing eyeballs of some
feeding deer, or moose, or caribou, that has paused in his repast
to study the wonderful phenomenon before him. This method
is deadly with a vengeance ; and, as frequently from three to five deer
will be '' shined " in a single night, game will almost certainly be
secured. Still-hunting can, of course, be followed here, as everywhere else, with good result. There is also capital duck shooting
in the fall.
Lake Megantic is the largest body of water in the Canadian territory adjacent to Maine, being twelve miles in length by from one to
four miles broad. Its shores are rugged and exceedingly picturesque,
■ and deeply indented with inlets and bays, the coast line measuring
some forty-odd miles. ■ Its principal feeders are the Lower Spider
and Arnold Rivers, also the Annance, Victoria and Sandy Rivers,
and numerous lesser streams, and its outlet is the Chaudiere River,
which leaves the lake at the bay of the same name, within ioo yards
or  so  of  the Canadian Pacific Railway station  of  Megantic, and 12
empties into the St. Lawrence near Quebec. There are several fairly
good hotels in the village, and experienced guides can be secured
there at moderate charges. The best localities for moose, caribou
and deer are Annance Bog, near the mouth of Annance River—which
flows in at the head of the lake—and up the stream from its outlet
for a couple of miles, the shores and bog being favorite feeding
grounds. The Annance is navigable by skiff or canoe as far as mentioned. Other good bogs and points for game will be known to the
guides and reached under their directions.
Fishing in Megantic is variable, as is always the case on such
large waters. On a good day heavy strings will surely be taken, big
lake trout scaling as high as twenty-five pounds being caught on the
trolls during June and September. In the bays and inlets speckled
trout rise readily to the fly, and every stream emptying into the lake
is plentifully stocked with them, the fish running to lair size. On
Chaudiere Bay, Moose Bay, the Victoria and Annance Rivers, and all
the lesser streams and inlets, the brook-trout fishing is Ai, and there
is no difficulty in taking fine strings of good ones.
Separated from Lake Megantic by a " carry" of a trifle less than
three-quarters of a mile is the famous "Macannamac" or Spider
Lake, ranking next in size to Megantic. This lovely water, lying
3000 feet above the sea-level and sleeping amid rugged mountains, has been aptly dubbed "the Geneva of Canada." Upon
its shore is the club-house of the Megantic Fish and Game Club,
which corporation controls it and a fine territory with similar facilities for sport to that just described.
A short run by rail from Megantic over the Boundary Mountains,
which divide the Province of Quebec from the State of Maine, enables travelers by the | Short Line " to reach one of Maine's most
lovely sections, and also one ol the best for sport, one of the most
promising points for ruffed grouse and red deer being Beattie Station. Shortly after crossing the international boundary the headwaters of the Moose River appear, the line following the stream and-
its chain of lakes closely until the shore of the matchless Moosehead
Lake is reached, and finally the Canadian Pacific Railway station,
and town of Greenville.
The headwaters and chain of lakes of the Moose River, in addition to being perfect gems in their way for natural beauty, are first-
rate for speckled trout, the fish running to good size, and quite plenti.
ful enough to keep the rod busy. An exploration of this chain of
waters would certainly richly repay the labor, and furnish all the
essentials for a thoroughly enjoyable outing. Lakes and river aH
included extend for about twenty-five miles before the current reaches
Moosehead Lake, the scenery being very pretty every yard of the
way, and the greater portion of the water furnishing good fishing.'
The variety and quantity of game to be found at the several points
about these lakes and kindred waters, and others easily reached from
Greenville station, are about the same as at Megantic.
A glance at a map will show why this part of Maine is such a
noted game and fish country.    Lakes and ponds and small streams LAKE MEGANTIC AND MOOSEHEAD LAKE.       13
fairly net the whole region, offering grand facilities for the trout
fisher ; and, as they thread the very strongholds of moose, caribou,
bear and deer, the lover of the rifle can readily guess what fine
opportunities are offered for the capture of one or all of the animals
named. In addition quite a number of duck and other game can be
found, and in such splendid covers as those shaggy woods ruffed
grouse of course abound.
To give a separate description of the different waters would
require a book much larger than this. Their name is legion, and the
great majority of them are well stocked with trout, and a few with
land-locked salmon. Reliable guides, necessaries for a camping
party, and information concerning the best points for sport can be
obtained at Greenville. Spencer, Indian, Squaw, Wilson and Roach
Ponds, Brassau Lake, and all the little streams that feed Moosehead,
are noted for trout, and the guides can pilot you to many others.
Those preferring to make their headquarters at Greenville will find
surprisingly good accommodation in the large, new hotel upon the
shore ; plenty of boats, and ample- means of enjoyment; and there
are many steamers on the lake to take the visitor where he wills.
Moosehead Lake is forty miles long by from two to fifteen wide,
with many islands, large and small; and its shores, for wild beauty,
compare well with the finest of her Canadian or American sisters.
The surrounding hills are lofty and covered with dense forests ; and
here and there a towering mountain rears high above the tangle of
rolling woods, forming pictures of which the eye never wearies.
Grandest of all is Mount Kineo, at the base of which is the Kineo
House, a commodious summer hotel with 250 rooms and conducted
in first-class style. Its appearance reminds one of the popular resorts
of the sea-coast, and it is the rendezvous for a small army of tourists
during the season. Close beside it is a handsome club-house, owned
by American gentlemen who come each season for the fishing. A
large general store is close at hand, where camp supplies, etc., maybe
purchased, and there are plenty of competent guides and good canoes
and skiffs available. The above brief mention does not include one
third of the trout waters to which the guides will show the way. A
particularly inviting trip by canoe can be made by leaving Moosehead
Lake by the " north carry," portaging over to the West Branch of the
Penobscot River, and thence down stream, with good fishing, varied
scenery (including the celebrated Mount Katahdin, a mass of granite
a mile high), and a dash of adventure to lend an additional charm to
the cruise. The East Branch of the Penobscot, the Allagash, St.
John, and Aroostook are also reached by following the West Branch
to Lake Chesumcook and thence north. Particulars of these routes
may be obtained from the guides, or by consulting Steele's " Paddle
and Portage " and " Canoe and Camera," which contain maps of the
region and clever descriptions of trips by that accomplished canoeist,
and " Hubbard's Guide to Moosehead Lake and Northern Maine,"
which covers the entire "pond region." The outlet of Moosehead
Lake is distant from Greenville about twelve miles, and is the beginning of the Kennebec River.    There is a comfortable hotel there, at H
Moosehead Station, and the fishing, close at hand, is equal to many
of the more remote localities. By going down stream in canoes,
Indian Pond and other crack trout pools are reached, and close to the
river there will be found plenty of game. From this brief description
it may be learned that the Megantic and Moosehead regions are fit
for the careful attention of veterans of rod and gun ; and a trial of
them will speedily convince any one that the above, instead of overdrawing the picture, in reality but suggests what will certainly be
Following the Canadian Pacific Railway's " Short Line " beyond
Greenville, the route traverses for some considerable distance
a similar country to that which has already been referred to;
through favorite haunts of forest game, and passing many lakes, and
crossing streams that are full of gamy trout. Lake Onaway, or
" Ship Pond," as it is also called, and Schoodic Lake are amongthese,
and two more beautiful waters cannot be wished by those preferring
to camp beyond the bustle of the busy haunts of men. By this line,
which shortens the journey from Montreal to the Maritime Provinces
by nearly 300 miles, several of the world-famous salmon rivers
of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia are easily reached, and the
advantages it offers will surely be appreciated by sportsmen of
all degrees. NEW   BRUNSWICK.
NEARLY every sporting writer of any prominence has had more
or less to say of sport with rifle, gun or rod, or holidays with
canoe and canvas upon one or other of the many beautiful
lakes and streams of this favored province. The bare mention of
New Brunswick at once calls up visions of " calling or "creeping"
moose ; of adventures with black bear ; of salmon pools and struggles
with hard-fighting fish ; of trout and heavy creels ; of grouse and water
fowl—in fine, of sport not to be excelled in any of the older provinces
of the country.
New Brunswick is by no means a travel-worn country, nor are
the sporting possibilities being exhausted. Great tracts of it are
rough lands heavily forested and accessible with any degree of comfort only by water, and luckily these water-routes are well stocked
with fish. Of course the salmon rivers of any note are principally in
private hands, but you may have " a friend at court," and if so your
fortune is made, for these rivers very seldom disappoint an earnest
worker. The number of lakes and trout streams where the wealthy
salmon-fisher has no control are also quite numerous enough and
good enough for all humbler visitors.
Moose, caribou, deer, bear, and several varieties of fur-bearing
animals, with grouse, water fowl, etc., are comprised in the game list,
and some of the best localities for them are traversed by what was
formerly called the New Brunswick Railway, but which is now embodied in the Canadian Pacific system. This line, or system of lines,
affords direct access from McAdam Junction, at the international
boundary, to St. Stephen, St. Andrews, St. John, Fredericton, Havelock, Aroostook, Edmundston, and New Brunswick points between
these centres, and also to Presque Isle and Houlton in Maine.
Between the extreme northern inland point, Edmundston, and St. John
City on the Bay of Fundy, lies a broad expanse of varied country
netted with waters and well forested and offering many inducements
to shooting, fishing, or camping parties. Owing to the ease with
which a number of attractive lakes and streams may be reached, this
territory especially appeals to those who will begin a sporting trip
from points in New England, but it is also well worth the attention
of others, though living at greater distances.
One of the most beautiful resorts of the coast is St. Andrews,
situated on Passamaquoddy Bay, and in addition to being a charming
and healthful spot where one can spend a pleasant holiday, it offers
excellent fishing in both salt and fresh water. Plenty of fishing craft
are available in the harbor, and visitors may have a deal of fun hauling out the hard-pulling denizens of Passamaquoddy Bay, or in deep-
sea fishing outside in Fundy or the Atlantic. For work with the rod
or trolls a number of lakes and streams well stocked with land-locked
salmon, togue and trout, are within easy reach. Among these are
the Chamcook Lakes, three in number, Limeburner, Bartlett's, Stein's, 16
Snow-shoe, Welsh, Cram, Turner's, McCullough's and Creasy Lakes
and the Digdequash -River, and several others of minor importance.
Indian guides and canoes may be hired at the Indian village near the
park at St. Andrews, and the fun will prove well worth the having.
Between McAdam Junction and St. John are several good waters,
among the best being Harvey Lake, half a mile from Harvey Station ;
South Oromocto, Long and Victoria Lakes, reached from Gaspereaux
Station, and the waters close to Welsford Station. St. John is also
on the route to the Miramichi, Nepisiquit, Metapediae and Restigouche Rivers. In the immediate vicinity of Canterbury good fishing and shooting can be had, the best water being Skiff Lake, a few
miles west. Woodstock, on the St. John River, is a convenient point
for canoeing. The southwest branch of the Miramichi is a capital
water, and to reach it the angler should go to the town of Kent, and
thence team to the Forks, where guides with boats or canoes are
A river, now pretty well known, but none the worse on that
account, is the Tobique, which enters the St. John close to Andover.
At the confluence of the rivers is situated a village of Abenaquis
Indians, who make reliable guides, and will show the way to camp
sites, salmon pools and the haunts of trout. The scenery of the
Tobique is very fine, and every day of a week's or month's holiday
spent upon it should prove most enjoyable. The river is a noted
spawning place for salmon, and in certain reaches of it great strings
of trout can be killed. About forty miles from its mouth is the
Nictau, or Forks, where three rivers meet and form an ideal " pool,"
and one of the surest points for salmon. Above this pool the
Campbell River, the right-hand branch, offers the best salmon fishing,
while the Nictau, or left-hand branch, contains plenty of trout.
A short distance north of Andover is Aroostook Junction, from
which a branch line extends to Northern Aroostook, Me., via Fort
Fairfield, Caribou and Presque Isle. A number of very good waters
intersect the country contiguous to these places, and each of the
towns named has plenty of hotel accommodation.
From Caribou the Eagle or Fish River Lakes may be conveniently reached. The northern terminus of the railway is Edmundston, situated about the centre of a choice fishing district. Among
the best waters are the Upper St. John, the Green and Madawaska
Rivers, and the Temiscouta and Squatook Lakes. The Eagle or Fish
River Lakes, named as being accessible from Caribou, Me., may also
be reached from Edmundston. A trip that has been praised very
highly by men competent to judge, is as follows : first, up the Madawaska for fifteen miles to Griffins ' then " carry " to Mud Lake, thence
via Beardsley Brook to the Squatook Lakes and River, and from
ther,e go by way of the Toledi, Temiscouta and Madawaska back to
Edmundston. Gun, rod and camera may all be used to advantage
along this route, for the sport to be obtained is good in the genuine
meaning of that term, and the scenery picturesque in the extreme. THE   RIDEAU   LAKES.
,F a certainty, those who have tested the fishing
on the Rideau and the " Drowned Lands "
require no recommendation to induce them
to make a second trial. By the construction
of the Rideau Canal, a watery highway 125
- miles long, extending from the capital city
of Ottawa to the historic city of Kingston,
was opened, and this route offers manifold inducements to those who
love to spend a holiday canoeing and fishing, during the summer
months, or fishing and shooting in the earl}' fall.
When the canal was constructed the course of the Rideau River
was naturally followed, and the stream utilized as far as possible ;
and when the several locks were completed, and the waters restrained
' from flowing through their natural outlet, great tracts of low-lying
woodland and marshy spots were deeply flooded, forming what are
now known as the " Drowned Lands." The Rideau was always a
fine bass water, and under the altered conditions it is not surprising
that it not only held its own, but rapidly improved, and, as years
passed and the flooded country ran wild, the entire aspect changed :
broad marshes w,ere formed, overgrown with wild rice and rushes,
attracting thousands of duck and other water fowl; and at present
one would never dream but that the flooded country was always
what it is—the chosen haunt of game, and fit resort for the angler.
There is nothing, except an occasional lock, to suggest to the voyager
that he is upon anything but a great natural water highway, a broad
stream widening every now and again into lakes of greater or less
extent, with long stretches of rushes and beds of rice, weeds, and
lily-pads, such as are loved by duck and fish. The Rideau is
reached either at Ottawa, Smith's Falls, or Kingston, and a cruise of
its entire length by canoe will be found thoroughly enjoyable. Should
the latter city be selected as the starting point, tourists from east or
west are best conveyed thither by the fine steamers that ply up and
down upon the St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario ; for that trip by
water is rightfully considered one of the most attractive available.
If Ottawa or Smith's Falls be chosen, either is reached from east or
west direct by the Canadian Pacific Railway ; and no matter whether
you go by steamer or rail, your canoe, etc., will be carried with you
and carefully looked after. Several intimate friends of the writer
make the trip each season ; and, in proof that they enjoy it, they and
several others intend taking it again next August. They are not
lovers of the gun, but they have fun "no end " fishing, and report
wood-duck" numerous even at the early period when their pilgrimage
is taken. The writer himself has never been over the entire route
by canoe, but he has " done " a portion of it and found that to be eminently satisfactory.    The bass were there and willing to be caught
j 18
quite fast enough to furnish excellent sport, and there were plenty
of ducks nor far from Smith's Falls, and numerous good bags were
made early in September. Furthermore, there are acres and acres
of ground that, unless their appearance is very deceptive, should be
good spots for woodcock ; and a spaniel might prove a most useful
companion in working up cock and grouse, the latter being fairly
plentiful at many points, which the practised hand will no doubt
locate by the appearance of the cover.
While making this trip by canoe you will pass many camps upon
the shores, and meet many holiday-makers who are, like yourself,
finding healthy recreation in tracing out this pleasant route ; and you
can neither come to grief nor get lost, unless you manage to accomplish the former either by wanton carelessness in running foul of a
RUFFED grouse.
snag while penetrating the quiet lagoons,  or getting dumped out,
while larking—a thing no man of sense is guilty of—in a canoe.
By far the greater portion of the way is exceedingly pretty. A
camp can be pitched almost anywhere ; should you desire to stretch
your legs a bit, you can land where you will. The fishing is excellent,
and the shooting, early in the fall, ditto. The route is easily reached
and easily traversed, there being no hardship connected with it.
Flies are not troublesome ; and for those who prefer to spend their
holiday among pretty surroundings, and at the same time remain
within reach of civilization, the Rideau offers inducements of a very
high order. The entire trip is inexpensive, and has been made in a
week ; but that of course necessitated hard work at the paddles. A
couple of weeks would do it nicely; and, if the time js extended a
week longer, it will not be spent in vain, SHARBOT   LAKE. 19
THIS famous lake is situated directly on the line of the Canadian
Pacific Railwa)', being about 166 miles distant from Montreal,
easily reached from Ottawa, and 169 miles from Toronto. It
would be a difficult matter to find a more suitable or beautiful spot
for camping, or a resort with such natural advantages where better
sport with rod and gun can be enjoyed. For picturesque scenery
and fine water Sharbot Lake will stand comparison with any in
Ontario ; and either upon the shores or the many pretty islands that
dot its surface are beautiful camp sites for all comers. Some of the
islands are already in private hands, and are visited each summer by
their owners, who bring their families for change and amusement
during the heated term.
The total number who visit this spot each season is not so very
great, but admirers of Sharbot are increasing year after year, as its
advantages are becoming better known ; and there is no reason why
it should not steadily progress in popularity for many years to come.
The attractions are the same as usually characterize Canadian lakes
—forested shores ; beautiful rocky islands, large and small, and clear
cold water well stocked with good fish.
Those who wet a line in Sharbot invariably depart content, for
heavy strings are to be relied on. The list of fishes that may be
taken there are black and rock bass, pike and a few lunge, though
the latter are seldom killed. The black bass, as might be expected,
afford the finest sport; and, to show that they attain a great size, it
may be mentioned that one of the heaviest small-mouthed black bass
on record was taken there. Trolling is a standard method, but a
good hand with a rod ean have the pleasure of killing fine fish a la
mode with the fly, with worms or minnow bait, the latter being somewhat difficult to procure, but very deadly if available. Those who
understand the ways of crayfish can find the sharp-nipping, " retrograde " fellows under stones and other shelter ; and it is seldom that
a black or rock bass is able to resist one of these tempting morsels,
if properly placed on the hook.
A very efficient method is to use a good-sized hook, and, having
secured the crayfish, insert the barb into the mouth and push the
hook along until the point is well clear of the tail of the bait. The
crayfish is of course killed as dead as ditch-water, but that matters
not at all. The curve of the hook rounds him to a natural shape, and
if you send him down rapidly, he will represent exactly the backward
rush of the live "nipper" going to the rocks for shelter; and, if
there are bass about, he will be promptly seized, even when live
minnows and artificial baits prove useless. '' It's a mighty captivatin'
dainty," as a friend once roared out on his first trial of one rigged for
him, after he had changed from minnow to. worm, and spoon, and
artificial lures all in vain ; for the crayfish had hardly sunk five feet 20
in the clear water ere a huge bass darted from among the rocks and
gathered it in, and gave him a set-to that he never forgot. When
fishing with crayfish, care should be taken never to jerk them upward
unless actually striking a fish, for they are easily broken. By tender
handling two fish may be taken with the same bait, and sometimes
three or even four—a matter well worth attention-with such difficult
lures to secure. Trolling with bass spoons should always insure a
fine string at Sharbot, and artificial baits might be tried with advantage. A fair catch would run from a dozen good fish up to three
times that number for a morning's work—quite enough to repay one's
exertions ; and the chance of landing an extra big one always maintains the interest.
There is hotel accommodation for a limited number, and a few
boats, right on the spot. Board will cost about $1 per day, and a
boat the same, with special rates for each by the week ; and $i a day
will secure a good man. Flies are not so bad at Sharbot as upon
many other good waters, and trouble the angler but little after June 15,
and disappear altogether about two weeks later.
This lake is a noted resort for ducks in the fall, being one of the
best in that part of the country. Many handsome bags have been
made there, running as high as fifty birds in a day to one gun. The
great majority of these ducks are what are styled "fall duck," i.e.,
fowl that breed farther north, and merely rest a week or so at the
lake while upon their southerly migration. It is therefore impossible
to set an exact time for a visit, as much depends upon the weather ;
but the month of October should be about right. Earlier in the
f.cason quite a number are sometimes killed, but it is generally
THIS is a region as yet comparatively little known to the majority
of tourist sportsmen and anglers ; yet it is one of the best available, especially for those who will make Toronto their initial
point. Starting from the " Queen City" per Canadian Pacific Railway, Havelock Station is reached well within four hours, and the cost
of a return ticket is only a trifle over $5, or in other words, you can
leave Toronto in the morning and be busy with the black bass and
lunge early in the afternoon, a feature that should bear due weight
with those who have only a few days at their disposal. HavelocL,
distant 100 miles from Toronto, is the best point to select as headquarters, if a trial of the Trent is decided upon ; and the angler or
sportsman can take the trip, satisfied that, unless he is one of those
unfortunate beings who seem specially selected as the victims of hard
luck, he will be richly rewarded for his trouble. Close to Havelock
Station there is a comfortable hotel where visitors can make themselves perfectly at home, and also pick up valuable pointers as to
the best methods for circumventing the big lunge and bass that claim
the Trent as their home. Hastings' Bridge is only three miles distant from the hotel, and you can secure conveyances at the latter
place and be driven over, and are then right on the spot. Boats and
guides can be secured at the bridge at very cheap rates, and to many
the most enjoyable method is to go into camp at one or other of the
desirable sites along the stream. Those -who do not fancy spending
a holiday under canvas can find excellent accommodation in houses
close at hand. From the 15th of June until the end of the open
season the lunge and black bass fishing is Ai, except on an odd day
now and again, such as will be experienced upon any water. Above
the bridge, towards the town of Hastings, trolling for lunge will give
satisfactory results, for the '' fresh water sharks " are very numerous,
and bite freely at either spoon or live minnow or chub, and the catch
will be varied with heavy black bass. The right-hand channel at the
island, going down stream, and below the island for some two miles
to the government boom, are famous reaches for bass and lunge.
Forty bass, running from a pound to five times that weight, have
been killed by a single rod in an afternoon with minnow bait; and
lunge, scaling all the way from five to twenty or thirty pounds, have
been taken, the smaller fish being plentiful. If you want to have
genuine fun with a big fellow, just troll for lunge at this point, using
a stout rod and suitable tackle, and for a surety you will have a tussle now and then that will quicken your circulation vastly, or you
are no true lover of the gentle pastime. Fine strings of bass can also
be taken by still-fishing all along the river between Hastings' Bridge
and Healy Falls and Rapids, a distance of about five miles. The
stream varies in width from 100 yards to a quarter of a mile, and 22
here and there expands into broad bays ; and at many points there
are rocky shoals and gravel beds, about which, as the bass fisher will
guess, many fine fish haunt.
But the spot of spots for small-mouthed black bass is below the
falls. The stream plunges down fully forty feet over a rocky ledge
some ioo yards wide, and among the deep pools below is where the
bass are found in all their glory.
No chicken-hearted, soft fish these, but stout, voracious fellows,
bred in the cold, fast water, and game to fight for liberty to the last
kick. On proper tackle a two-pounder, helped by the strong current,
will afford as much sport as a fish of twice the weight in a lake or
sluggish stream, and when a real heavy one takes hold, and you will
hook them up to and over four pounds, look out for squalls. He
will tax your nerve and skill to the utmost, for it is no tyro at the art
that can play one of these dusky acrobats to his death under such
conditions. The writer well remembers one glorious day, when thirty-
eight grand fish were killed on the pools below the falls and farther
down stream during an afternoon. The bait was live minnow on
that occasion, and there is no reason for doubting that more could
have been taken, for only a moderate amount of work was done.
Crayfish, worms, and any of the good artificial baits should prove
deadly, especially the "phantom," in such rapid water, and a short
distance down stream fine records have been made with the fly.
About a mile and a half below Healy Falls the Trent runs into
Crow Bay, a noted spof for both lunge and bass, and one that is
almost certain to well reward a trial.
Another excellent point on the Trent is Campbellford, twelve
miles from Havelock Station. The leading sportsman of the town is
"Tom" Blute, proprietor of as comfortable a hostelry as wandering
Nimrod or angler ever put up at. Up and down stream from Campbellford a rod can be kept busy all day long, and the fly fishing is
particularly good. Blute is a sportsman of long and varied experience,
knows every foot of the country, and is an extremely obliging host,
and, moreover, a right good companion upon a jaunt. All that is
necessary is to write him in advance, and a conveyance will be sent
to meet you at Havelock, and no further trouble need be taken, for
he will attend to everything and tell you just where to go.
Any one going to Havelock might as well write in advance to
insure boats and conveyance both being secured, in order that no time
may be lost in getting to work. By following this course a goodly
string should be taken ere night falls on the first day's outing, and
the wisdom of it will be apparent to all.
At times ducks are fairly numerous along the river ; and, if the
fishing trip is planned during the open season for water fowl, the
breechloader should surely be taken along, as, even if the ducks fail,
there are plenty of grouse close at hand in the woods.
One of the brightest towns of the more important centres of
Canada is Peterboro, which may be considered the birth-place of the
modern canoe. A pleasant place to visit always, it is also a convenient point from which to reach some fine lakes where good bass RiVER TRENT AND ADJACENT WATERS, AND PETERBORO. 23
and lunge fishing can be had during June, July, August and September. Rice Lake, distant twelve miles, is reached by steamer, and
is an admirable point for camping. Chemong Lake is seven miles
distant by rail, and Katachawanuck, nine miles. Live minnow
bait will prove deadly with lunge and bass ; the fishing is generally
excellent, and a couple of weeks may be right pleasantly spent with
rod and canoe at trifling expense. Fairly good duck and grouse
shooting can be had, but deer must be sought at distant points.
J 24
JANGING northward of Havelock is a region of forest,. lake
and stream, which is bound to please those in quest of
picturesque scenery, and it is also a famous territory for
fish and game. A far-reaching chain of beautiful lakes
extends through the wild country, all linked together by
small streams navigable by canoes, excepting in a few cases, where
portages have to be made. This chain of lakes offers great inducements to canoeing and camping parties, and one can go with canoe
and camera and find countless combinations of lovely and rugged
scenery too numerous for even bare mention; or, if rod and gun
are also taken, plenty of occupation will be found for all.
In olden days this silver pathway of waters was a favorite canoe
route for Indian hunters'and trappers ; for game, great and small,
was amazingly plentiful, and many a noble buck, huge bear, and
cunning beaver has fallen a victim to the arts of man on these woodland waters. Nor has the blood of beasts alone dyed the leaves and
mosses under foot. The now silent woods have reSchoed with the
war-whoops of fighting savages, and where now one hears but the
whir of the rising grouse, or the rustle of the deer in the thicket, the
flint-armed arrow has sung upon its murderous errand, and the tomahawk and knife settled deadly disputes.
Long ago, by this very water route, stealing noiselessly from lake
to lake and onward down the Trent, came the dusky braves of Champlain, the fierce Huron warriors, upon their deadly raid into the
stronghold of the rival Iroquois. Hair-was raised in those "good old
times," and war dances perhaps took place upon the very site of your
camp, but only romantic memories of them are left for you. Your
hair will stay flat to your scalp, unless peradventure you do as the
writer did once (perfectly unintentionally, I assure you) — i. e., walk
thoughtlessly round a big rock and come face to face with a big, old
he-bear, black as a barrel of tar and seventeen times as ugly. Then
hair was lifted, and there was a wild war-dance and a single-barrelled
whooping that made the leaves fall, but the dance led too straight
and too rapidly for camp for minute details. Scientists aver that the
black bear never attacks man, but when a fellow is only armed with
a cedar paddle his confidence in the statements of scientists is apt to
be incommoded by limits. Black bears certainly never attacked me
—they never had time ! Famous this region was for game and fish
in the past; and though, of course, it is not now what it was, still
there is quite enough for any ordinary purpose. The principal waters
of the chain are: Round Lake, Belmont, Deer, Oakley, Twin,
Sandy, Jack, Cushamogabog, Tongonong,  White, Gull, and Eagle CHAIN OF LAKES NORTH OF THE TRENT.
Lake. Lunge and black bass fishing in Round Lake is good, worm
and minnow bait giving satisfactory results, the sport being best
after the ist of July. There are several settlers' houses on the south
shore where lodging can be secured, and a few boats are available.
Ducks are plentiful, especially wood-duck early in the season ; deer
are fairly numerous and grouse abundant in the woods, and in many
of the swales quite a number of woodcock can be found.
Belmont Lake, a few miles east of Round Lake, is best reached
from Blairton Station, being only a few hundred yards from the
hotel. There are a few boats available at Blairton, and guides can
also be secured there at small expense. The fishing is about the
same as already described, and in fact the general characteristics of
all these waters are so similar as to render separate description
useless. The more northern lakes can be reached by driving over
the usual style of lumber road, and, though there are no regular
hotels, sportsmen can put up at the log houses where the teamsters
hauling supplies to the lumber camps find accommodation, and be
fully as comfortable as at the average country hotel. Ruffed grouse,
wood-duck, and hare are to be found almost anywhere, and there
are plenty of deer and not a few bear, while the fishing is something
to be long remembered. A few judicious inquiries at either Havelock or Blairton Stations will elicit all required information. W^sfiotefe-
Lake St. Clair, and fly into the plains and corn-fields for some considerable distance every morning to feed, and are shot from "blinds "
constructed upon the open plains in the line of flight, which seldom
varies much. The most reliable plan for the sportsman after geese
would be to put up at one or other of the farm houses on the plains
where the fowl feed, as he must be out at daylight to insure success.
These marshes and muddy plains are famous snipe grounds, and,
while the shooting is not now so wonderful as "Frank Forrester"
enjoyed in the olden days, it is still good enough to be well worth a
trial, from fifteen to forty birds per day being considered fair bags,
though these numbers are often doubled by crack snipe-shots. Woodcock are also frequently found in the wet corn-fields eariy in the fall,
'and later in the dry thickets of the uplands, where the quail haunt,
and rabbits are plentiful everywhere. Ruffed grouse may be found
in the heavy woods bordering the plains at several points, and not
unfrequently a fine mixed bag
of grouse, cock, snipe, quail,
rabbit and duck, is made by
one gun in a couple of days.
Plover are numerous in spring
and autumn. About the mouth
of the Thames and adjacent creeks and marshes and upon Lake St.
Clair are any number of duck, though the good points for shooting
them are comparatively few. It must not be forgotten that the finest
portions of these western marshes, where men kill one hundred and
odd big duck in a day, are strictly preserved, but still an outsider can
generally find a bit of sport worth going after at the points named ;
and, if he has good dogs and varies the programme by attending to
the duck at early morning, and the quail later in the day, he should,
as I have done, and can do again, have a right good time, and bag
his share of what is going.
Fishing, both trolling and whipping with minnow or artificial bait,
in and about Baptiste and Jeanette's Creeks (both near the mouth of
the Thames) and in and about the mouth of that stream, is generally
very good, the catch including black, rock and speckled bass, pike,
pickerel and perch. The mouth of the Thames is reached from
Chatham by steamer plying to Detroit, for a mere trifle for transportation, and you can camp upon the beach where the Thames joins
Lake St. Clair, or find accommodation for a small party at the
At Mitchell's Bay, on Lake St. Clair, reached either from Wallaceburg or by driving from Chatham, are hotels, and, as a general
thing, good duck shooting and black bass fishing.
THE station for these waters is Carleton Junction, on the line of
the Canadian Pacific Railway, 146 miles from Montreal, 26 miles
from Ottawa, and 225 miles from Toronto. At the junction are
a couple of good hotels, and a five minutes' walk will take you to»
the town of Carleton Place. Board at either point will cost about $1
per day, and men and boats can be secured at the usual rates on the
spot. The Mississippi River runs through the town, and it is a rapid
stream, foaming and boiling over rocky ledges and big boulders,
with many deep, quiet pools and eddies, in the shadows of which
lurk plenty of black and rock bass. The river is easily fished, and
heavy black fellows can be taken from it, and rock bass unlimited ;
but a better point is the first enlargement of the winding river, known
as Mississippi Lake. This lake is three miles from Carleton Place,
and affords excellent sport, large black bass being readily hooked.
Fair-sized pike are plentiful, lunge are scarce, but rock bass may be
taken by the dozen almost anywhere. In the fast current of the river,
spoons, artificial minnows, etc., are good, but the most deadly bait
is either minnow or crayfish, and flies might prove useful. A couple
of miles above Mississippi Lake is another and smaller lake, which
is, perhaps, the best of the waters. On either of them trolling with
an ordinary spoon, or still-fishing with worms, will answer admirably.
Particulars about the most promising reaches can be obtained at
Carleton Place ; and there is also a tackle shop, where a useful stock
of lines, trolls, etc., is kept.
Some exceedingly good catches are on record for these waters,
and in the fall there is now and again some fairly good shooting, but
hardly sufficient to merit special attention, though as a fishing resort
it is well worth a visit. 30
THE transcontinental line of the Canadian Pacific Railway, in its
course from Carleton Junction to Winnipeg, traverses for the
greater portion of the way a region of country that for sporting
purposes can hardly be excelled by anything outside of the magnificent game resorts and trout waters of the Rocky Mountains and the
wonderful prairies of the Canadian Northwest. Those, of course,
are not approached by any territory on the entire American continent;
but the sportsman who has not time to devote to the transcontinental
tour can find all the amusement he wants, and wildly beautiful
scenery second only to the mountains, and never journey a yard beyond Nepigon River. And if that wonderful stream is too far away
for the time at command, one need not go beyond the Ottawa River
and its tributaries to give rod and rifle full play. Sport such as men
who confine their outings to the more thickly settled parts of the
Province of Ontario never dream of can be enjoyed at will; trout fit
for a royal spread can be taken by the hundred, if needs be ; and in
those lonely forests are moose, caribou, deer, bear, grouse, and other
game, at many points as plentiful as they were when only the hardy
voyageurs and the pioneers of olden days invaded their sanctuaries.
Upon the main or "Winnipeg" line the first promising stopping-
place is the town of Arnprior, situated upon an expansion of the
Ottawa known as Lac des Chats, and distant from Carleton Junction
about twenty-six miles.
The bass fishing in Lac des Chats is fully equal to the average
waters in Ontario, which is saying not a little, and the beauty of its
scenery has made its name famous. Upon the shores are many
attractive spots for a camp ; but the best of all, and the one most
frequented by camping and picnic parties, is at the beautiful Chats
Rapids, where fine sport can be had with the bass, and a week or so
be right pleasantly spent under canvas. No camper ever yet returned
from this point dissatisfied with either the fishing or the scenery, and
it would be an extremely difficult matter to discover a better location.
Boats, guides, and bait can be secured at Arnprior, and board there
will cost $i per day, with guide and boats about the same. The most
reliable baits are live minnows and worms. Trolling with spoons is
also a sure method, and other artificial lures ought to do good
The town of Pembroke should be the objective point for those
who seek trout fishing unexcelled by any waters in Ontario. It is
situated upon Alumette Lake, an enlargement of the Ottawa River,
and is some seventy-eight miles from Carleton Junction, and directly
upon the line of railway. The town contains about 5000 inhabitants,
and offers first-class hotel accommodation at prices ranging from $1
a day up.    There are plenty of boats and carriages to be hired at a OTTAWA RIVER AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. 31
moderate outlay, and it is the centre of one of the very best trout
regions in America; and there are also several places within easy
reach where capital black bass fishing is the rule.
The entire country hereabouts is intersected with many streams
of various sizes, all plentifully stocked with the speckled gems, the
size of the fish varying in proportion to the volume of water where
they are found. A detailed list of them would be useless, as the
angler cannot go astray. On the Quebec side of the Ottawa River,
the Laurentian range of mountains forms the bank, and every stream
which courses down their slopes and their name is legion) is stocked
with trout. On the Ontario side, and within a few miles of Pembroke, are a half dozen waters which cannot be surpassed.
Within six miles are three good waters, in any of which an average angler can take from thirty to forty good fish in a day, and in the
majority of cases this catch will be greatly exceeded.
Within twenty-five miles of the town, and out in Chichester
township, are a great many lakes, from which any number of trout
may be taken, the catch being only limited by the angler's desire.
Of these fish too much cannot be said ; they are the gamest of the
game, and a marked peculiarity about them is their uniformity in
size. Among a whole day's catch three-fourths of the fish would
weigh a pound apiece, very few running below that weight, and few
or none exceeding a pound and a half.
Fifteen miles below the town are the Poquette Rapids, than which
there is no finer spot for camping. To reach this water necessitates
a pleasant drive, but the fishing is of the begt.
A particularly good lake, distant from Pembroke twenty miles,
can be reached by steamer, and also the mouth of Deep River, both
of these waters furnishing rare good sport. Another lake is situated
upon a small mountain, within easy driving distance, and from it
splendid trout can be taken in almost unlimited numbers, the fish
running from one to two and a half pounds. It is a rare occurrence
to take a fish weighing less than a pound in the lake, and you will
not find a better place to wet a line. To reach it, one has to put in a
bit of up-hill tramping, but only long enough to thoroughly extend the
muscles and fit a man for what will surely be a grand day's work. A
peculiarity about the trout in this and some other neighboring waters
is that they appear to be of three different varieties, though the difference is simply a matter of color and markings.
Perhaps the first fish caught will be a fine specimen of the ordinary brook trout, resplendent with the famous jewelled regalia which
have so often been sung and written of. The second fish mav prove
to be a paler-tinted, heavier-made fellow, game to the backbone, and
swift and strong, but lacking the beauty ol number one. The angler
will to a certainty eye this fish attentively, and possibly slip it into
the creel with the remark, "That's the queerest-looking trout I've
seen for some time," and he will cast again, hoping to take another.
The fly will kiss the water, and lo ! there is a sudden lightning
gleam and a fierce strain that makes the rod bow in acknowledgment, and the reel scream a surprised protest, while the blood courses 32
through one's veins in swift response to the challenge of a real out-
and-out fighter. The swirling battle goes on—the maddened rushes
grow shorter and weaker, the reel cautiously devours foot by foot
of the silken tether, and presently the net sinks below a royal
prize ; and as he rolls over, with a despairing effort, the current
flashes with a gleam of brightest gold, and you have an example of
what is styled in the vicinity a "golden trout." Swift, valiant champions of the flood are they, looking as though they had been gilded
all over their lower parts with a tint that rivals the splendor of the
lazy gold-fish of glass-globe notoriety ; and never did nobler quarry
test the spring of a rod. Such are the trout of this mountain lake,
and the angler's motto should be "Excelsior" until the hill is
climbed and the delicate cord is whistling over this best of all waters.
To refer again to the streams upon the Quebec side, Ouiseau
Creek deserves more than a passing notice. The fishing is particularly good, the catch weighing from a quarter of a pound each up to
a pound and a half. In order to fish this creek properly, the angler
must go prepared to wade, and the water will be found clear of
obstructions and the bottom safe, with no treacherous spots to entrap
the feet. Between Pembroke and the town of Mattawa, ninety-four
miles distant, are dozen of streams, all well stocked with trout, and
several of them being also excellent for bass, especially at Petewawa,
eleven miles from Pembroke, and also at Chalk River, nine miles
farther along the line. Inside of this limit several very good trout
streams are crossed by the track.
One of the best creeks that a line was ever wet in is Bissett's,
crossed by the Canadian Pacific line, and distant from Pembroke
sixty miles. It is wide and open, with safe bottom all the way across
for wading; and some of the handsomest trout ever hooked in this
entire section of country have been killed on this water. The fish
are not phenomenally large, but as a general thing they run very even
in size, the average being from ten to twelve inches In length.
Good sport can be enjoyed here.
Half an hour's run from Bissett's is Deux Rivieres, or Two Rivers
Station, another great spot for trout. But enough have been mentioned to give a good rough idea of the great resources of this section
of country in the matter of fishing. Pains have been taken not to
overdraw the picture, and the information relating to this subject
has been collected on the spot, and by a practical fisherman who
fishes the northern country regularly.
To sum up, I cannot too strongly advise a trial of these waters,
as the result will to a surety convince any angler that there is no
such country for trout fishine-. There is no hardship in fishing there,
and all charges are moderate. Conveyances can be hired at the
ordinary rates, and hotel rates, etc., are the same as in small towns
nearer home. Minnow bait for bass can readily be obtained, either
by purchase or caught by the angler himself with a minnow seine or
gang. A very good plan is to have a sort of landing net rigged up
with common mosquito bar instead of netting. This, sunk flat upon
the ground in shallow water with bait suspended over it to attract OTTAWA RIVER AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. S3
the minnows, is a sure and easy means of obtaining a sufficient
quantity of bait. And bear in mind that trout fishing in any of these
waters may be pursued a la mode, with every opportunity for the
exercise of scientific skill. None of your worms, or bit-of-fat-pork
business, but fly fishing of the best; with no more obstructions to
impede casting than are sufficient to call forth a display of that skill
on which the true angler prides himself.
A man or party can go to Pembroke equipped with their finest
tackle, and find every opportunity for using their treasures. They
can go with the best rods, choicest lines, deadliest flies, and favorite
reels, and find abundant sport; and they will also find about half a
dozen enthusiastic anglers prepared to extend to them the right hand
of fellowship in the craft, and see that visitors enjoy themselves, for
there is no need for jealousy of a rival's performance on such richly
stocked waters, orin such grand game resorts. The number of expert
rods quartered in that part of the country might be counted on the
fingers of one hand ; hence it will be readily seen that there is no
danger of trying an over-fished section. There are, no doubt, a large
number of experts with the rifle and plenty of men well versed in
woodcraft; but it must be remembered that a man must work for his
living in such places, and the majority of them have little time to
spare for shooting. Even if they did devote the whole legitimate
season to killing big game, there would still be abundance for all
comers. It should also be remembered that those scourges of all
good waters—the flies—moderate their attacks about the 15th of
June, and are not noticed at all after the end of July.
As a game country, as has been suggested, this territory will not
be found inferior to any likely to be visited by the ordinary sportsman. Moose and caribou are of course comparatively rare, and are
as yet entirely protected by law in Ontario, the close season for both
not expiring until 1895. Black bears can be considered plentiful,
some years more and some years less. Last year they were very numerous, being frequently seen from the town of Pembroke, and on
at least one occasion were actually in the streets! This may sound
outrageous, but it is a fact; for three bears crossed the river right at
the town ; and, if the writer's memory is not seriously astray, two
were killed inside the town limits after having actually run down one
of the principal streets. The common red deer can be found but a
short distance from the line of the railway, Deux Rivieres and neighboring stations being exceptionally promising points; but the best
plan for a stranger is to secure a reliable guide, and leave the selection
of the ground to him. Duck shooting is frequently very good on the
larger lakes, but the special merit of this part of the country is the
abundance of forest game. Those who visit it can depend upon
having plenty of chances at deer, within all likelihood a shot or two
at a bear, and ruffed grouse in abundance.
FOLLOWING the transcontinental line farther west beyond Pembroke and the waters referred to, the next important station
for sportsmen is the town of Mattawa, situated at the junction
of the Mattawa River with the Ottawa. On the farther side of the
latter stream the Laurentian Mountains terminate in an immense
bluff, where not long since considerable quantities of gold were discovered ; and abundant auriferous traces-have been found throughout
the upper Mattawa country, which will also be found a veritable gold
mine, figuratively speaking, for those seeking fish and game.
The town of Mattawa (a name borrowed from the Indians, and
signifying " The Forks") is one of the best points on that portion of
the line to fit out for an extended shooting or fishing excursion. The
hotel accommodation there is very good, and prices are low for
board, or guides and boats. It is a supply depot for a vast tract of
rugged and wild country, where extensive lumbering operations are
carried on ; and whenever you find lumbermen you can also depend
upon finding a plentiful supply of their famous "river boats," and
the equally famous canoes. This holds good of Mattawa, and well-
informed guides will likewise be secured.
The upper country is noted for big game, moose being, for them,
plentiful, and red deer everywhere. Black bears are liable to show
at any time; and, moving through the woods, you will flush ruffed
grouse in surprising numbers—singly, by two and threes, and whole
covies of from nine to fifteen birds. Wing shooting, owing to the
nature of the cover, is very difficult, and the best weapon for all-
round work is a repeating rifle. With this, one can cut the heads off
the birds as they sit, for when put up they almost invariably tree, and
are easily approached ; and, armed with a rifle, one is always prepared
for large game.
The writer once took a "No. 12" breechloader and a Winchester
into these woods, and speedily found the former a veritable nuisance;
for it was hard to carry and could rarely be used, except in the few
scattered ■ openings and upon some of the lakes at ducks ; and even
in the latter case the rifle afforded just as much sport.
The trip up the Mattawa by canoe is as follows, it being understood that there is plenty of game on either side of the river, and all
about the lakes to be mentioned as its headwaters. Going up stream
of course necessitates considerable work, and this route is described
for those who want to be most of their time in the canoe and enjoy a
trip up and back. The easiest way to do the Mattawa is to take
canoe by rail to North Bay Station, thence by wagon to Trout Lake,
and work down the Mattawa. Your guide will lay out the route,
and decide upon where to pitch the tent if shooting is the primary
object. If you are especially bent upon fishing, or are too early for the
shooting season, you can secure guides and canoes at Mattawa, and
start up stream prepared to enjoy fine scenery and workjwith the rod
that will not prove disappointing.
Leaving the town and paddling up the river, the scenic effect is
like a long panorama of pleasing views, changing at every turn ; and
each stretch of glancing water and towering rocky bank is apparently
fairer than the last, until, about a mile and a half from the starting-
point, the first portage is reached at McCool's Mills. This portage
is about ioo yards long, and then comes the beautiful sheet of water
called Champlain Lake, some five miles long and varying in width
from a quarter to a half mile.
The shores of this lake are very pretty and well wooded, with
numerous moss-covered rocky terraces, which afford excellent sites
for a party to pitch their canvas. The fishing is of the best, there
being plenty of fine lunge and bass, and both take the troll readily;
while in any of the countless coves and bays the stickler for the rod
can find scope for his ambition with bass weighing from one to five
Passing on up the lake, a roar of water is heard, and presently
we reach La Rose Rapids. The Amable du Fond River, which is
the outlet of a small chain of waters, among which are Crooked,
Manitoulin, Smith's and Tee Lakes, pours its rapid current into the
Mattawa at the head of these rapids. The river is well worth exploring, as in the lakes mentioned there is capital fishing. To pass La
Rose Rapids necessitates a portage of about a quarter of a mile ;
then the course is straight against a sharp current until some small
rapids-are reached at the foot of Birch Lake. These are but trifling
obstacles, and the next point is what is called " The Needle." Here
the detour is completed, and the Mattawa is reached again. A
goodly sized brook comes tumbling down the steep slope from the
mountains, and the angler will do well to keep this stream in mind,
for it drains several small mountain lakes heavily stocked with
speckled trout of good size.
Passing on up the river, Nature assumes a grander aspect, the
banks reaching upward higher and higher, until in many places they
form walls of sheer rock from ioo to 200 feet high. Parause Rapids
and the Little Parause demand another portage • then straight
paddling again to the Mill Rush ; another short portage, and thence
good paddling through Eel Lake for a couple of miles ; then another
mile of the river proper, the scenery being, if anything, more pleasing
than that already passed, and Talon Shoot is reached. A portage of
nearly 300 yards is followed by about a mile of fast water, after
which the work at the paddles can be slackened, for the voyageur has
reached Lac du Talon, famed among the lumbermen for its mighty
lunge and bass.
This is one of a regular network of small lakes which form the
headwaters of the Mattawa ; and verily this network is one that will
entangle the angler's heart, for in one and all of its channels are
splendid fish.    Countless unnamed small streams and rivulets con- 36
tribute their currents to feed these lakes, and speckled trout abound
wherever the water is deep enough to cover them.
If the Ottawa River is followed north of Mattawa, it will be
found to traverse a wild region very similar in general appearance,
and with game as plentiful as mentioned in reference to the Mattawa.
Each of the unnamed and practically unknown streams and lakes
will be found to contain plenty of trout, ranging in size from finger-
lings up to great fish, according to the volume of the water they
inhabit. A canoe trip in this direction would surely prove very enjoyable ; but the fishing and shooting at the points already described are
so good that it is hardly worth while going beyond them, except one
wants to play the r6le of explorer.
However, the first stage of the journey may be made by steamer
from Mattawa up the Ottawa, the voyageur taking supplies, canoes
and guides with him. By this route he reaches a country beloved of
moose, caribou and bear, and every feeder of the Ottawa contains
brook trout. He can traverse Lake Temiscamingue (Indian for "deep
water"), an expansion of the Ottawa some seventy-five miles long,
containing big black bass, and surrounded by forested levels of
exceedingly rich land, occupied at present principally by lumbermen and game, but destined shortly to attract numerous settlers.
Beyond Lake Temiscamingue he can follow the Ottawa into the
Province of Quebec to Lac des Quince and Lake Mujizowaja ; thence
to Grand Victoria Lake and Lac des Rapides, and finally to the very
source of the mighty river, if he so pleases; part or all of which
would be a glorious pilgrimage by canoe, and furnish themes for
many a tale of moose and bear and wolf, of struggles with hard-
fighting trout and bass, of nights in the forest primeval, of beds of
sapin, and a thousand and one other things that go to make the life
of a woodland wanderer delightful. I'd like to go there again
myself J
A lover of the canoe, who prefers to take his own craft with him,
cannot do better than visit the town of North Bay, situated on Lake
Nipissing, and distant from Mattawa forty-six miles, being also on
the transcontinental line of the Canadian Pacific Railway.
From North Bay he can, if so inclined, first explore a portion of
the fine Lake Nipissing, and then send his canoe by wagon to Trout
Lake, some four miles away and now reached by an excellent road.
This lake is the largest of the headwaters of the Mattawa, being
about twelve miles long. From it the route by canoe is the same as
was followed in bygone times by the voyageurs of the Hudson Bay
Company, i.e., from Trout Lake to Turtle Lake; thence a trifling
portage enables you to reach Pine Lake, from which a portage of-a
quarter of a mile completes the journey to Lac du Talon, already
referred to, whence the trip on the Mattawa can be reversed until
the Ottawa is reached ; and, once that noble stream is gained, the
voyageur can decide for himself where the trip shall end, for he is
upon that magnificent highway of waters that ends with the mighty
WE have turned aside from the railway line at Mattawa to explore
the waters of that river and the upper Ottawa, but now we
will resume the direct route. Our next stopping-place will
be on the romantic shores of Lake Nipissing, at the bustling little
town of North Bay.
On Aug. 25, 1882, the start was made of what has since grown
into a town with a future of importance, and there are few better
objective points for the angler and canoeist.
The lake is a magnificent sheet of water, some forty miles long
by about ten wide, offering every facility for sailing, bathing, or fishing. There is plenty of hotel room, from $r per day upwards, and
the town is built right upon the beach, the several hotels being about
200 yards from the water.
North Bay is a thriving place enough, and will yet be a summer
resort. The lake is all that could be desired, and ere many seasons
have passed away should be well known to pleasure seekers. /Standing upon the beach, one looks away across, and can dimly discern
the outlines of half a dozen islands near the farther shore. Looking
down the lake, the view takes in the mystical Manitou Island, where
the Indians say dwells the Great Spirit; and, as the eye follows along
the beach on which the observer stands, one notes picturesque combinations of rock and evergreens, coves and bays, the Indian reservation, and, far beyond, two rocky points abreast of the Spirit Island ;
then, beyond this, the great vague horizon, where sky and wave
appear to meet as one.
Below the village a long pier runs out 150 yards or more, for the
accommodation of the steamers; and from this point of vantage big
catches of pike, bass, and pickerel are made daily. The method
used is "whipping" with a rod and spoon or with a fish's eye for
bait; but there are plenty of minnows to be taken with proper tackle ;
and with live bait, or any of the good imitations, great catches could
be made without going farther than the end of the wharf. The writer
has taken seven good fish, three of them being very large pickerel
and one a two-pound bass (with common tackle borrowed from the
hotel proprietor), inside of a few minutes, by merely walking slowly
along the pier and keeping the bait about four feet below the surface.
The lot were taken ere the outer end of the pier was turned, or, in
other words, before he had walked 100 yards, and numbers of large
fish could be seen down in the cool depths apparently merely waiting
an invitation to take hold. There are good boats, including a sailboat, available ; and by taking a skiff and rowing away towards the
Indian reservation, a pleasant trip and a good catch are assured.
The list of fish includes bass, pike, pickerel, and lunge, and heavy
ones of each variety will probably be taken during an afternoon's trolling.   But a visitor must remember that sport is sometimes uncertain 38
upon all large lakes, and he should not despair if he fails to land a
big string at the first attempt. This will also apply to Trout Lake or
to any other water of equal size. But the chances, especially on
Nipissing, amount to almost a certainty in favor of success, and,
unless the water is too rough, you will return with a fine lot of big ones.
As a shooting ground the Nipissing country ranks very high.
There are any number of deer and ruffed grouse all around the lake,
quite a few moose, caribou and bear, and upon what is known as the
"long arm " of Nipissing rattling good duck shooting can be had in
the fall. The district about Callender, and the very best portions of
the celebrated Muskoka deer country, are close at hand, and those
of Parry Sound lie between this lake and the Georgian Bay, and they
are among the best known.
One of the best points on the Nipissing, and reached direct by
the Canadian Pacific Railway, is the country around Sturgeon River,
distant from North Bay twenty-three miles. A party of Toronto
gentlemen, perfect strangers to the place, went in there in the fall of
1887, and got all the deer they wanted, a great bag of grouse, and
one of them, who had never seen a moose before in his life, killed
two of these grandest of all Canadian deer in one day. In the fall of
1888 some of these gentlemen went again, making their headquarters
near Sturgeon Falls, and got five deer the first week, a lynx, and a
large number of ruffed grouse, and could have killed a great deal more
game had they cared to do so. They broke camp twice, and in
changing locations lost time ; otherwise, the total of killed would LAKE NIPISSING AND TROUT LAKE. 39
have been much more. In 1889 they were again on the old grounds,
and repeated former successes, getting nine deer to four rifles in
eleven days, and a heavy bag of grouse. Moose signs were plentiful,
but, as the big fellows were protected by law, no effort was made to
kill one. When the Indian summer's haze curtains those grand old
woods again, at least two of that party will be doing business at the
old stand, and no doubt will again return successful. From this the
sportsman can form a rough idea of how plentiful the game is in this
highly favored section.
Some four miles inland from Nipissing is the beautiful Trout
Lake, of which so much has been written during the past few years.
To a camping party this lake offers attractions of the highest order,
and there are two or three houses upon the shore where a few visitors
can be comfortably provided for, and where a half dozen excellent
skiffs are kept for hire. Trout Lake is a picture that once seen will
never be forgotten. Numerous islands of all sizes, from half an acre
to nearly a hundred make portions of it appear like so many separate .
channels, and form a combination of loveliness that is not surpassed
by any lake in Canada. Surrounding this matchless water is a rugged, rocky, lonely wild, with great hills and deep ravines, alike densly
clad with towering evergreens, and through their shadowed aisles runs
many a good trout stream.
Flies do not trouble the fisherman so long as he stays upon the
lake, but in the woods along the trout streams they and the mosquitoes are pretty bad until thi last week in July, when the flies disappear and the mosquitoes also let up in the attack. Fishing in the
lake is a thing to be remembered. Deep in its icy depths (for Trout
Lake is deeper than a prime minister) are great big salmon trout,
and for these an extra weight must be put on the troll.
But one need not go "three thousand leagues under the sea" to
have sport; for with ordinary tackle bass and pickerel of good size
can readily be taken, and now and again a monster lunge will test
the angler's quality. One of thirty-five pounds weight was hooked
by a lady and successfully landed after a hard fight.
If a man puts in a week at Trout Lake, and comes away dissatisfied with either the fishing or the scenery of that richly endowed
spot, he is indeed a hard customer to please. This water has been
visited by comparatively few, and the majority of them Americans;
but those who have once enjoyed the privilege return again year after
year, for it is one of those places which never wear out.
A guide and boat can be secured on the spot, and, starting from
the head of the lake, the visitor is pulled away down for a couple of
miles e*e it is time to cast out the trolls.
Each fisherman should have a couple of lines, for this reason:
Some few yards from the rocky, evergreen-clad shore a sort of shelf
of rocks runs out ten or twelve feet below the surface. It can be distinctly seen, and the object is to keep the boat as near as possible
above its outside limit. Looking down through the clear water, you
can trace the extreme edge of this ledge, and immediately outside of
it is a black abyss of unknown depth.    The two lines are worked in 40
this way: One should be as long as possible, and have enough
sinker above the troll to keep it at the depth of this shelf of rock,
the other and shorter line requiring nothing but the ordinary spoon
Following this method, some heavy fish should be taken, the
short line keeping the angler thoroughly well occupied playing bass
and pickerel, with a very good chance of hooking a big lunge now
and again.
Passing on down the lake, the scenery is extremely beautiful, and
one realizes how thoroughly attractive is this wilderness pure and
simple. Presently a round opening in the wall of evergreens is
noticed, and a closer inspection reveals Short Portage, a few yards
long, which leads into Four-Mile Bay. We take a peep through, and
note how pretty the surroundings are ; then go down the lake toward
Big Camp Island, seven miles from the starting point, passing several
very pretty little islands on the way. Many Americans and Canadians pitched their canvas last summer upon the big island, and all
united in praise of the resort. A climb upon some of the great rocks,
where the moss forms a resting-place fit for a king, gives pleasant
relief from the confinement of the skiff, and one can lie in dreamy
comfort, and really find that peaceful rest which is such a delusion
upon many holiday trips. Fairer spot could not be chosen for
a week or so in camp, and in a short time the attractions of this
neighborhood will be better understood.
Turtle Creek is connected with this water, and the fishing there
is something to be remembered ; while in its outlet, Lost River, the
"bass fishing is unsurpassed.    Many big catches made on the last
mentioned are on record, some of the bass running over three pounds,
and quite willing to be caught at the rate of fifteen an hour.
A peculiarity of Trout Lake is a wonderful echo which is best
tested from a point on the water about two miles above Big Camp
Island, especially on a calm evening. Under such conditions the
slightest sound is repeated with startling distinctness many times
over, and testing the mocking voice of the distant hills is a favorite
amusement with those enjoying a paddle by moonlight upon this
lovely water. A sharp cry or loud whistle is answered at once from
the lofty hills on either side with marvellous precision; then there
will be a few seconds of silence, and a musical ree'cho comes floating
back, to be repeated again and again from hill after hill, and point
after point, softer and sweeter as it slowly dies away, until it is finally
lost in a whisper, faint and far, from the great forested height that
marks the head of the lake.
Shooting in the immediate neighborhood is always good. Bears
frequently appear upon the shores ; to see deer swimming from the
mainland to one or other of the islands is a common occurrence;
caribou are often met with, and moose have always harbored about
the beaver meadows and in a densly wooded stretch of low land near
the foot of the lake. A couple of Toronto gentlemen caught a very
young moose there last season, and released it again after it had been
admired by the rest of the party.    The writer himself saw a grand LAKE NIPISSING AND TROUT LAKE.
bull moose one summer s day when exploring the shore—in a canoe,
and he has killed large bags of grouse and many ducks there in the
fall, and also his share of the deer abounding in these famous woods.
Many articles praising this locality in the highest terms have recently
appeared in the Canadian and American fishing and sporting
journals, and the tourist can go there satisfied that wonderfully
attractive scenery and plenty of sport will make the trip a memorable
one. 12
This is the spot, where the shadows cool
Blacken the depths of the swirling pool,
And the forest resounds with the laughing call
Of the silver tongue of the mimic fall.
Just where a great big trout would He,
On with the best-dressed, deadliest fly-
So, so, now for a lucky cast—•
Confound that branch, I'm fast 1
Ha! saw you not that lightning gleam
Where yon moth but kissed the treacherous stream ?
Match me swiftly the fluttering game—
Beware the branch 1   Ah I try again.
Hum, that's strange.   Try further down ;
I'll have him this time, I'll lay a crown.
Missed him! —You know there's many a slip-
Great Scott 1 there goes the tip I
Never mind, there's another inside the butt,
Now, drop lightly the dainty gut
Just where that snowy mass of foam
Swings in behind yon mossy stone.
Hurrah!   I have him I   Careful, now —
Egad, old chap, you're mine, I vow,
Just as sure as though book of fete
Already held your length and weight.
Avaunt 1 ye praters of city life,
With your sickening toil and ceaseless strife,
And your doubtful pleasures that never dare
To match this fight in the healthful air.
This grand set-to in the rapid's froth
And the triumph of landing—Oh 1  , he's off! NEPIGON   RIVER.
43 «
IN following the transcontinentalline from the portion just described to
Port Arthur, the route traverses a game region par excellence, rough
and wild in the extreme, and crosses some of the very finest trout
streams on the continent, including the world-renowned Nepigon River,
the dream alike of anglers who have and have not wet a line in its rushing
flood, or had their best efforts taxed by the jewelled leviathans that abound
in that incomparable stream. Many of the rivers and brooks in this section, or the numerous lakes, great and small, which are seen from the car
windows, have never been fished, but such as have been tried have richly
rewarded the experiment. Near the town of Sudbury some fair lake fishing is obtainable, and the adjacent country is a good one for black bear
and grouse. In traversing the north shore of Lake Superior you will cross,
among others, the Wahnapitaeping River, flowing from Lake Metagama
into Georgian Bay ; the Onaping River, draining the lake of that name ;
Spanish River; Mississaga, the outlet of Winibegon and Ground Hog
Lakes ; the Apishkaugama River and the Steel River, a trout stream of
rare meriL The Magpie and White and the two Pic Rivers also abound
in trout of good size, White River being perhaps as good as any of the
extensive list. Steel River offers some of the choicest trout fishing available outside of Nepigon. It has several small falls and rapids and deep
pools, and in fact it is just the stream an angler loves, and wonderful
catches can be made either by following it upward or near its mouth, using
either flies, worms, minnow or artificial lures. Other trout-haunted tributaries of this north shore are the Mink, Black, Maggot, Gravel, Cypress,
Prairie, Pine, Fire Hill, Trout Creek, Wolf, McKenzie and Current Rivers,
and there are several others within easy reach of the railway. In all of
these trout are numerous, and the great majority of them can be readily
waded. Of course in fishing such waters one must be prepared to live
under canvas or put up with poor accommodation ; but that but adds to
the enjoyment of a holiday in this lone, romantic land, and more attractive surroundings or better fishing than will surely be found there no man
can desire.
During the fall of 1890 the Railway Company, willing as usual to do
all in its power to further the interests of sportsmen, decided to render
several of the good but almost unfished rivers of this district more accessible, and also to decrease the difficulty of fishing that exceptionally good
water, the Steel. What was most urgently required was a system of trails
leading direct to the fishing, for the woods and cover about many of the
best reaches of fast water were almost impassable to any but experienced
woodsmen. Trails were accordingly made upon the following : the Steel
River, Prairie River, Black River, Gravel River and Jack Pine River, and
it must be remembered that these are the choice of the whole extensive
list. A few remarks conveying hints for general guidance to each will no
doubt be appreciated. STURGEON   FALLS TO   PORT  ARTHUR. 45
Now, first the Steel, already referred to. It is a short river, that is,
the fishable portion of it, but it is perhaps unsurpassed when at its best.
Practically, its headwater is Mountain Lake, though a sort of continuation
of the Steel extends for some distance beyond that lovely lake, but for
some reason it does not appear to hold many trout. All told, the Steel
offers about five miles of good water below the lake, and the lake shore
offers the best of sites for camps. To reach this river the angler should
go to Jack Fish. A trail starting about a mile and a quarter east of Jack
Fish leads in to Clearwater Lake, the distance being about two and a half
miles over easy going. Then follows a paddle of a mile and a quarter on
Clearwater to Mountain Lake portage, an easy "carry" a mile long
between the two lakes ; thence two and a half miles northeast on Mountain Lake will bring one to the Steel. A trail has been cut on the west
side of the river from Mountain Lake to the foot of Big Bluff at Telford's
Pool, at which point the river can be waded at low water. On the east
side another trail extends from the lake to the foot of the fast water, and
still another trail has been cut from the iron railway bridge to the Basin
and the head of the rapids. Canoes can be readily taken in via Clearwater
Lake, as indicated above, and brought out down the river. The fishing
is good from the time the ice leaves the river until the middle of June,
except immediately after heavy rains, which are apt to discolor the water
for a day or two. From the middle of June until the 1st of August the
sport is frequently good, but at times uncertain. AU things considered,
the cream of the fishing is to be had between August 1st and September
15 th, when it is not surpassed by any trout water. During the last mentioned period fish killed in the Steel will range in weight between two and
six pounds. A recent morning and evening's fishing, for two rods, totalled
forty fish, which weighed one hundred and twenty-three pounds. This
may sound strange, but it is a fact, nevertheless, and it will give an idea
of what can be done.
Next to be considered is Prairie River. This water is two miles east
of Steel Lake Siding, seven miles west of Middleton Station and nine miles
east from Jack Fish Station. The trail commences about 500 feet
west of where the railway crosses the river, and trends north for about
four miles, where it strikes the river at the head of the fast water. From
this point the wading is good and safe down stream through the rapids,
the fishing being excellent all along. The trail is cut close to the river
and can be reached from any point. From August ist until September
15th is the best time, but good sport may be had any time after the middle
of June.    The trout will scale from one half to three pounds.
Black River is another good one, though the fish do not range so
heavy. Any quantity of small ones may be killed, but from two to two
and a half pounds would be the extreme weight. Qharter of a mile west
of Black River Siding, and starting [from the west side of the railway
bridge, is a trail leading north along the bank for four miles to the head
of the rapids. From this point the wading down stream is good and the
sport certain. A beautiful cascade, well worth seeing, lies about a mile
south of the bridge. A good trail, starting at a point a mile west of Black
River Siding, leads directly from the railway to the fall.
Gravel River is a capital water, either early in the spring or late m
the fall though it is at times somewhat uncertain.   From Gravel River Station a trail extends for a couple of miles to the Big Fall, thence down
stream along the rapid water for two and a half miles, thence back to the
station, the trails forming a triangle. Trout in this river range from one
to four pounds weight.
The Jack Pine River, a first-class water from the time the ice moves
until June 15th, except during very high water, is reached from Mazokama
Station. During the latter part of June, July and the first week in August
fish are plentiful of small size, but from the middle of August until the
close of the season big fellows weighing up to five pounds may be taken
readily. A trail, starting from Mazokama Station, extends along the river
for four miles to the head of the rough water, rendering the best reaches
easily available. The flies mentioned in connection with Nepigon will
give good results on all of these rivers, while the angler will, no doubt, as
most of the fraternity do, have a few pet styles of his .own to depend upon.
Most famous of all the streams of the north shore, however, is the
beautiful Nepigon, and nobody going this far should fail to make the
trip by canoe from its mouth to the parent lake above. It is now so well
known that a minute description is entirely unnecessary. Enough has
already been written about its grand scenery and the matchless sport of
fishing to fill several goodly volumes; and yet never a line of all the
glowing descriptions is overdrawn, for in fact but few of them do it proper
The Nepigon is some thirty-one miles long, and connects Lake
Nepigon with Superior, its waters emptying into Nepigon Bay. To say
that the fishing is " superb," hardly conveys the proper idea ; it is unique,
unequalled anywhere else, for no known river can boast of such trout.
On a fishing day, for even Nepigon has its "off days " and occasionally
gets the sulks, you will take veritable giants—great trout of beauty and
weight, that even the rankest enthusiast ne'er dreams of till he has tried
this stream. Two-pounders, three-pounders, four, five—yea ! and by the
unlying scales, eight-pounders are there ready to spring upon the deadly
fly and fight to the last gasp against your practised hand. The station
for it is Nepigon, where will be found an exceedingly comfortable and
well-managed little hotel, the Taylor House, with accommodation for a
limited number.
But to fish this river properly you must camp, and fortunately there
is no difficulty about obtaining guides (Indians) and canoes at Red Rock,
Nepigon, Ont., a Hudson Bay Company's post. All necessaries for ordinary camping parties can also be obtained there, the rates for two Indians
and a canoe being from $2 to $4 per day. Intending visitors must bear
in mind that a trip up the river means living under canvas, and govern
themselves accordingly. Necessities can be obtained on the spot; luxuries
must be brought frorri the towns. There are many beautiful sites for a
camp all along the river, and to say that it is a veritable anglers' paradise,
is quite within the mark. Trout scaling from two to five pounds can
be readily taken on any of the best pools, and whitefish are surprisingly
plentiful and afford fine sport, rising eagerly at "gnat flies." Their
mouths are as tender as wet paper, and a light hand must have hold of
the rod to land them ; but a two or three-pound whitefish is not to be
despised, as he will fight bravely on the hook, and is wondrous toothsome
The standard flies for Nepigon and adjacent waters are the " professor," "queen," "grizzly king," "Montreal," "Seth Green," "fairy,"
"shoemaker," "coachman," "silver doctor," "gray drake," "green
drake," yellow, brown, black and grizzled "hackles," and "gnats " for
the special benefit of the silvery whitefish. In addition to such of these
as you may pin faith to, and others of your own particular fancy, it will
be as well to take some artificial minnows and a few of the good rubber
baits along ; for they come hi very handy when fish refuse a fly, and are
pt to tempt big fellows. Your fly fisher may sneer at this, but do you let
him sneer, and take the baits just the same, for they will surely be used
and do their part gallantly. A fig for what the fish rises to ! So long as
you play him fairly and well after he is once hooked, the sport is just the
same; and, moreover, if the true inwardness of the capture of some of
the "monsters" was known, it might be that they fell to a grasshopper
or even the degraded "chunk of pork," while the fly-book was never
The Nepigon falls 313 feet in its course of thirty-one miles, and
varies greatly in width, narrowing to about 150 yards one mile from its
mouth, but broadening at other points into a noble stream. In fact, it
may be considered the extension of the St. Lawrence beyond Lake
Superior. Four lakes mark its course, the first being Lake Helen, only a
mile from Red Rock, the Canadian Pacific crossing at its outlet. The
current at this outlet is very fast. Lake Helen extends due north, and is
some eight miles long by one wide. The river proper leaves this lake on
the west side, and for six miles above it is broad and deep, with a moderate current till the bend at Camp Alexandria is reached. A quarter of a
mile above are the Long Rapids, continuing for a couple of miles. These
are avoided on the upward journey by paddling up a brook on the west
side for three-quarters of a mile, and from thence portaging to the second
lake, Lake Jessie, reached by a " carry" of a mile and a half. Lake
Jessie is three miles long and dotted with numerous small islands, and is
separated from Lake Maria by the tumbling narrows. The latter lake is
two and one-half miles long. From this lake to Cedar Portage, or Split
Rock, the distance is a couple of miles, the portage being 250 yards long.
A mile and a quarter above is another portage over an island in the centre
of the stream, called Island Portage, which is about fifty yards long ; and
three miles above it is One-Mile Portage. At a trifle over a mile above
the head of this portage, the stream rushes down in a foamy chute ; and
immediately above is Lake Emma, nearly four miles long. A narrow arm
of the river extends beyond the White Chute, which the canoer will follow
for about a mile, and then portage 230 yards to Lake Emma. The distance between this lake and Lake Nepigon is only six miles, but the river
is broken by four rapids not to be essayed by canoe. In order to avoid
this, canoes turn aside at the northwest angle of Lake Emma and follow
a small stream, flowing from Lake Hannah, for a quarter of a mile, and
thence onward for four miles to the head of Lake Hannah, where Flat
Rock Portage, one mile long, extends to the shore of Lake Nepigon.
This grand sheet of. water measures some seventy miles in length by
about fifty wide. It is studded with a vast number of beautiful islands,
and its coast-line is so brokea and indented with coves and bays that it
measures good 580 miles. To give an idea of the wonderful attractions of this
J 48
lake, it may be mentioned that the islands, great and small, number nearly,
if not quite, iooo, and are fully equal to the famous gems of the St. Lawrence, varying in size from eight miles in breadth down to mere rocky
picturesque fragments. Uncounted streams, several of them navigable
by canoes for a considerable distance, empty into the great reservoir, and
make this lake a most attractive water for explorations. The principal
feeder is the Kayosh or Gull River, at the southwest curve of the lake, at
the mouth of which is situated "Poplar Lodge," a Hudson Bay post.
From the above brief summary some idea may be gleaned of the marvels
of Nepigon, and, reader, you cannot do better than pay a visit to this, the
finest trout region in all America. Look to it that you omit no essential
from your outfit; for, once started, you are in the wilderness indeed—and
take your veiling material and favorite "fly medicine" along, for you
will need them. There are "no flies on Nepigon" as a trout river, in
the accepted meaning of that vulgarism, but, like every other good water
on the American continent, it has its winged pests ; and, while the sport
.is such as to make you hold lightly their attacks, comfort is not to be
overlooked. The Nepigon can be reached either by Canadian Pacific
Railway direct to Nepigon Station, or by one of the Canadian Pacific
Railway's splendid lake steamers, the tourist having the privilege of going-
by rail and returning by steamer, or vice versa.
And now a word about certain facts not known to the general run of
anglers, nor, indeed, to many who have fished the Nepigon and. sister
Leaving the train with canoe, camp supplies, etc., at Missanabie
Station, one can paddle south for about ten miles on Dog Lake, and reach
the Michipicoton River, which flows into Superior. This stream is
unrivalled in its way, and the visitor will never regret the experiment, for
great sport will surely result. The trout of the Michipicoton are large and
gamy fish as a rule ("large fish " in this region meaning three, four and
five-pounders), and there is no limit to the number that may be taken.
Another important fact is that very large trout (genuine brook trout,
Salmo fontinalis) may be caught from the rocks along the lake shore at
almost any point between Port Coldwell Station and Mink Harbor, a
reach of coast line of many miles. Residents on Jack Fish Bay take all the
trout they want by merely casting from the shore rocks with the rudest
description of tackle ; and I know no finer sport than thus hooking and
playing a five, six, or seven-pound beauty in the ice-cold flood of "Big-
sea-water," the Gitche Gumee of the red man, upon whose mighty breast
Hiawatha fought with the leviathans who lurlc below, as told in Long-
fellow's poetical story.   .
In the territory lying between the Nepigon and Port Arthur are a
number of excellent waters, both for trout and bass. In two of them,
Loon and Silver Lakes, black bass of great size are easily taken, as they
rise freely to the fly, and the marvel of a speckled trout and a black bass
hooked on the same cast has been witnessed at Loon Lake. This lake is
the source of the Pearl River, and is well worth a visit, as is also Silver
Lake, distant from it only three miles, and equally well stocked with the
two fish mentioned. From Port Arthur several capital trout streams are
reached, including McVicar's Creek, which runs through the town;
Mclntyre, Neebing, Currant River, McKenzie River, where any number STURGEON FALLS TO PORT ARTHUR. 49
of heavy fish may be taken—the trout weighing frequently four pounds,
—and Blende River—all of these emptying into Thunder Bay. The
three streams worthy of ilote which run into Black Bay are the Pearl River,
outlet of Loon Lake; the Wolf River, outlet of Silver Lake, and the
Sturgeon River. Fine fish will be found in all of them, and those making
their headquarters at Port Arthur can secure guides and boats at moderate
figures. The same choice of rail or steamer is of course offered going or
returning, as mentioned in connection with Nepigon, as Port Arthur and
her sister town, Fort William, are the terminal points of one of the
Canadian Pacific Railway's lake steamer routes.
As shooting grounds, these broad tracts of forests, lakes and rocky
barrens between Sudbury and Port Arthur are well worth attention.
Black bear, moose, caribou and grouse are generally distributed, the best
points being upon th& north shore of Superior proper, Jack Fish being
perhaps as good a centre of operations as any. Duck are also to be
found on many of the lakes, and there are several varieties of fur-
bearing animals to be met with during a jaunt in the woods which, while
hardly entitled to be classed as game, still are well worth the killing for
the sake of their pelts as trophies. Westward from Port Arthur an exceedingly picturesque country extends to the boundary line dividing the
Province of Ontario from that of Manitoba. Like the region just referred
to, it has many lakes and streams ; but the first worthy of special notice
is Wabigoon Lake, lying half-way between Port Arthur and Rat Portage.
Wabigoon (Indian for Lily) Lake is a pretty sheet of water some eight
miles long by three broad, with rough, rocky shores and a few small
islands. Lake trout, pike and pickerel abound in it, and may be caught
at will with trolls. A small stream connects it with Rainy Lake, offering
a canoe route to the Rainy River system of waters which mark the international boundary between the Province of Ontario and, the State of
Minnesota. One can leave the train at Wabigoon Station, obtain canoe,
guide and supplies from the Hudson Bay Company's post there, and
descend the outlet of Wabigoon Lake to Rainy Lake, and from there
paddle either to Lake-of-the-Woods via Rainy River, or follow the international boundary eastward by way of Pigeon River to Lake Superior,
reached at Grand Portage.
Traveling westward from Wabigoon, Eagle River and Vermilion
Lake are reached after a short run, and from here again the Rainy River
and Lake-of-the-Woods may be reached by canoe, the route being by
Eagle Lake, Vermilion Lake, and Huckleberry Lake and connecting
streams. Very large lake trout can be taken in all of them, and maskinonge are numerous in the rivers linking them together. The next important lake is the magnificent Lake-of-the-Woods, one of the most beautiful
waters in all Canada. It is so irregular in shape, and has so many islands
and bays, that but a portion of it can be seen from any one point of view.
As will be readily understood, experienced guides are necessary, if an
attempt is made to explore this maze of waters, and fortunately they can
be easily secured. Lake-of-the-Woods sprawls like a huge silver spider
amid romantic surroundings of the most pleasing description; and from it
extend natural water highways for hundreds of miles east and west and
north, for it forms part of the famous " Dawson Route," extending from
Lake Superior to Hudson Bay.
4 50
A point worth noting by those fond of duck shooting is the English
River, a tributary of the Winnipeg River, and distant about sixty miles
north of Rat Portage. The writer has never shot there, and very
few men have, but three guns last season killed 1247 duck in thirteen
days' shooting on the English last season, and the owners of the guns
traveled all the way from Toronto to do it. One of these sportsmen has
shot at many of the best points in Manitoba and the Northwest and made
heavy bags, but he declares that the English River grounds are the best
he ever tried.
To attempt to describe such a route in a book of this nature is impossible. A glance at a map of Canada will reveal the extent of the great
chain of waters referred to, and the sportsman can select from a hundred
or so long or short canoe trips the one that best suits his convenience.
Upon these countless streams and lakes you can spend a delightful holiday,
covering a few days, weeks or an entire season if you will, tracing out the
old-time routes of the voyageurs famous in the history of the fur trade ;
for millions of dollars worth of furs and peltries have been brought down
these glancing highways, and hundreds of feet have trodden the portages
you will find by the way. You can paddle to Winnipeg, tracing the course
of the Winnipeg River to Lake Winnipeg, and thence south to the mouth
of the Red River, and so to the "Prairie City ;" or, if you want more
scope and prefer the far North, you can traverse the length of Lake
Winnipeg to Mossy Point, and from there follow the Nelson River to
Hudson Bay and Port Nelson and York Factory; or you can leave Lake
Winnipeg by the boat route proper to York Factory, and follow the paths
of the fur traders. From York Factory you can coast along Hudson
Bay to Fort Churchill, and from there return to Lake Winnipeg via the
Churchill River and another chain of lakes. Should you want to go
farther north than the Churchill, you may do so for all me ; I'm not in it,
for, when a man changes the fish pole for the North Pole, I draw the line.
Outside of these few thousand miles of canoeing are many shorter
trips in the vicinity of Lake-of-the Woods, which no doubt will meet all
requirements. They will lead the sportsman into a wilderness of,surpass-
ing beauty, where he will find plenty of moose, caribou and black bear,
a fair number of deer and grouse, and fish for the pulling out; and his
verdict will be, upon returning, that this region is the finest in the world
BY the opening of the new "Soo Line " of the Canadian Pacific Railway and the establishment of a direct route from Sudbury, on the
transcontinental line, to the great sister cities of St. Paul and Minneapolis, yet more entirely new territory is rendered easily accessible, and
the disciple of Izaak Walton or Nimrod may devote considerable time to
that tract of country between Sudbury and the now flourishing centre,
Sault Ste. Marie, with lasting benefit to himself.
The region about Lake Nipissing, and from thence to Nepigon, has
already been referred to, which renders a description of the line between
the points now under consideration, unnecessary, as the general characteristics of the scenery, etc., are practically the same; though, in justice to
the " Soo " country, it may be said that it loses nothing by comparison
with the most beautiful of the lake regions.
Leaving Sudbury you find the same varied and picturesque blendings
of many colored rocks and rough forests, marked here and there with silvery streams and lakes, the loveliness of the surroundings gradually improving until the celebrated "Soo "is reached. The great gateway
between Lakes Superior and Huron has for years been a favorite resort
with a large number of pleasure seekers ; and that this St. Mary's River
is worth visiting may be learned from the fact that it is generally compared to the Hudson, and pronounced fully as attractive.
i)  kf
Finer facilities for the thorough enjoyment v^SBgeg
of a holiday than are here offered, could hardly be ^"-^
wished for ; there is splendid accommodation for visitors, the
hotels being conducted and equipped in first-class style, and the many
beautiful and interesting features of the spot are a guarantee against
one ever wearying of it. Nor is there any lack of sport. Several
fine trout waters are close at hand ; and the St. Mary's River, especially
on the Canadian side among the islands, affords as good fishing as man
can desire ; and game, large and small, is fairly abundant in the woods. 53
An exciting amusement is running the wild rapids in a canoe manned by
Indians, it being an experience that the visitor will neither regret nor
forget. At the foot of these fierce rapids is where the Indians spear the
whitefish, and it is rare sport indeed for a city chap to try his hand at this
method of poor '' Lo." He may not make much of a success of it, but he
will have a heap of fun, and enjoy what we are all after—novelty. The
immense government works, the water-power system and canals, and old
Fort Moody, an American military post constructed in 1823, are among
the special attractions that never fail to interest all comers. And now a
word to those who think that the voice of the syrens of old is yet heard
amid the murmur of waters, and that never a bird, nor the sweetest singer
that ever faced the footlights, had a voice to thrill like the whir of the reel.
In the several channels and amid the shadowed waters, where the rocks
overhang the depths surrounding Grand Manitoulin and sister islands, and
in the north channel between those isles and the mainland, lurks many a
huge black bass, fit for a master hand to play to his doom, and worth a
king's ransom to land safely after the glorious tournament is fairly won.
They are there, any number of them, grand, firm, game fellows, fierce
and strong, in those ice-cold depths ; and peradventure if you run down to
Algoma Mills and test their mettle, you will never regret the experiment.
Of the shooting to be had in the forests of Michigan and that portion of
the State of Wisconsin traversed by this route, little need be said! The
writer has put in a couple of years in Michigan woods, when the first
party you met in a day's tramp might be a black bear; where deer
roamed, not singly, but in herds, and where a bag of fifteen to twenty-five
ruffed grouse was not considered anything extraordinary for a good cover
shot. He has had but one season's trial of the broken prairie lands,
rolling hills, and brushy ravines of Wisconsin, but deer were plentiful, bear
ditto ; and stopping swift grouse and quail in the covers, and the loud-
winged " chickens " in the open, proved to be, '0. for people who like that
sort of thing, just about the sort of thing they like." THE CANADIAN NORTHWEST. 53
The prairie grasses grow close and sweet
Where the prong-horn is bounding wild and fleet,
And the sod is worn in deep-lined maze
With the mighty bison's forsaken ways.
Bones of the race that was swept away
Await 'mid the herbage their slow decay,
But the bleaching skull and the mould'ring horn,
To tell of the herds by these pastures borne —
Ghastly tokens—spread o'er the land
To prove t£e work of the butcher's hand.
But sense prevailed in the time of need,
And fettered the bloody hands of greed,
Ere the nobler quarries of hunter's aim
Were swept for aye from their native plain.
The elk still leads his stately bands
And the moose calls loud in the forest-lands.
And the shore of each lake and streamlet clear
Is deeply trod by the herding deer,
And the mink and otter and beaver play
Where the streams flow down on their devious way.
Far on the prairie's unmeasured field
Lakes unnumbered are bright revealed,
And the air is filled with the rush of wing
Where myriad wild fowl wheel and swing.
Westward majestic Rockies pile
Their mighty barriers mile on mile,
Where grizzly and goat and mountain sheep
Roam at will o'er ravine and steep.
Head, horn, and skin—each a matchless prize,
But gained in this Sportsman's Paradise.
WHAT are undoubtedly the finest shooting grounds to be found in
any part of the World at the present day are enclosed within the
boundaries of the Canadian Northwest. No other territory can
claim such a variety of game nor such an abundance of it, nor such
splendid facilities for reaching the haunts of the different species, and no
other country can offer the daring sportsman such a promising chance of
securing what are now so eagerly sought after—the heads and skins of the
nobler game animals as trophies of his skill and nerve in their pursuit.
I will not attempt to cover all the good shooting points in the vast
expanse of prairies and brush lands lying between the eastern boundary
of the Province of Manitoba and the summit of the Rocky Mountains,
which mark the eastern confines of the Province of British Columbia.
Roughly speaking, the prairie country is about iooo miles wide, and
may be considered " iooo miles of good shooting;" while other vast
tracts extend far to the northward of the Canadian Pacific Railway, offering unequalled inducements for special explorations by those who can 64
afford to devote sufficient time to the work. But the present intention is
to treat merely of such points as can be reached readily from the railway,
and direct the sportsman to places that the writer knows to be good, and
where he can enjoy his sport in comfort.
Of the game of this prairie country, i.e., the Provinces of Manitoba
and Assiniboia and Alberta, too much can hardly be said. They simply
comprise the " happy hunting-grounds " of the sportsman's dreams, and
only those who live within their bounds, or have tested for themselves
their amazing resources, can have any fit idea of what variety and numbers of game, animals and birds are to be found there. Those who prefer feathers to hair can find shooting such as their wildest hopes never
aspired to ; and, what is perhaps after all its best feature, from the nature
of the country they can work their well-trained setters or pointers to the
greatest advantage and
see the animals at their
best—always a more
enjoyable matter to the
true sportsman than the
mere killing of game.
But the reader unacquainted with the
country or the habits of
Canadian game may
ask: Wherein lies the
special superiority of
the Canadian Northwest, and why is it
better than "any other
region ?
The answer is easily found. In the first place, those rolling, grassy
seas of rich prairie land, intersected with an endless succession pi lakes
and sloughs and swales, are the natural breeding' grounds now, as they
have been for ages in the past, of the swift-winged myriads of migratory
water fowl that every spring, in obedience to their wonderful instinct,
rise in blackening cohorts from the drowned lands, lagoons, and rice-
fields of the south, and fan their long way over states and provinces,
league after league, until they have gained these secure and lonely haunts
where they can reproduce their species unmolested by the destroyer.
The lakes, streams, and marshes are the fitting homes of the fowl, and
they break the vast expanses of grass everywhere. There is a practically
inexhaustible supply of food, and consequently the birds return year after
year to the same points where they were bred, and they will continue to
do so as long as there is a flock left.
The prairies of the Western States, being very similar in many
features, once swarmed with game, and portions of them are yet good,
but the ravages of the horde of market hunters were so terrible, that some
of the best grounds over the border have been irretrievably ruined. This
is not the case in the Canadian territory, nor is it likely ever to be. It is
yet a new country; and, though settlers are rapidly taking up the famous
fat land, portions of it will always harbor wild fowl. Keen sportsmen
were among the first to seek the new land when it was opened for
^   ?    WmP"
The Very Spot. 66
settlement, for right well they guessed what royal fields were there for the
gun. They also knew of the fatal attacks upon the game in the States.
Their turn came after; and, profiting by the result of the deadly work on
the sister prairies, they determined to save their game from a like fate by
properly protecting it. The value of their efforts is proved by the swarms
of fowl now in the ancient haunts.
And there is big game also in plenty. The buffalo is well-nigh
extinct, 'tis true ; but the giant moose, king of the deer tribe, yet haunts
every part of the country where a proper amount of browse can be found.
The elk, caribou, jumping or mule deer, common deer, prong-horn antelope, black and brown bears, gray wolf, lynx, coyote, fox, wolverine,
beaver, and several other animals valued for their furs • are yet found in
great numbers, and finer variety of game than these man cannot ask for.
But the amazing variety is among the feathered game. No less than
seven species of grouse may be killed, including the prairie chicken,
Canada grouse, dusky grouse, pintail grouse, ruffed grouse, ptarmigan
and willow ptarmigan, and they are widely distributed.
Among the water fowl are the trumpeter and whistling swans ; the
Canada goose, Ross's goose, lesser snow goose and brant goose ; the mallard, black duck, canvas-back, redhead, pintail, gadwall, wood-duck,
wigeon, green-winged, blue-winged, and cinnamon teal, spoon-bill,
shoveller, golden eye, buffle-head, blue-bill, and eider duck—a tempting
array,-truly, and the majority of them can be killed so easily that it is
hardly sport. Added to these are cock and snipe, golden plover, and
fifteen other varieties of the same family, and great flocks of curlew, and
many waders of lesser importance. About every marshy bit the bittern
and heron will be found, and in addition to these are hundreds of pelican,
sand-hill cranes, coot, rail, etc., etc., too numerous too mention.
And now to point out a few of the well-nigh countless places where
the game can be easily got at. In the extreme east of Manitoba, in the
immediate vicinity of and between Rennie and Monmouth Stations, is an
excellent country for moose, perhaps one of the surest points easily reached
from Winnipeg, and here there should be no difficulty in securing specimens of this, the greatest of Canadian deer. Bear (black) are also very
numerous ; there are plenty of ruffed and spruce grouse, and a few caribou.
Sportsmen can travel comfortably by rail to these grounds from Winnipeg
in a few hours. From Winnipeg those looking for wing shooting may
reach the haunts of prairie chickens and grouse (pintails) by driving a few
miles out upon the prairie, and in the brush in the valleys of the Red and
Assiniboine Rivers great numbers of ruffed grouse and hare will be
found ; but grouse shooting is somewhat difficult owing to the thickness
of the cover. Such a trip means starting early in the morning and returning to Winnipeg in the evening ; and the writer enjoyed very good sport,
following this method, for many days last fall, now and then varying the
fun by knocking over a few duck and snipe at the sloughs.
Raeburn Station, on the Canadian Pacific, thirty-five miles west from
Winnipeg, is a place well- worth a trial. There are plenty of duck on the
lake close by, and in ordinary seasons heavy bags are the rule. The
writer and a couple of friends had a big day there last season, and no
doubt it will be good for many years to come ; though, owing to the fact
that it is so easily reached, it has to stand quitaa cannonading occasionally. THE CANADIAN NORTHWEST. 57
A few " chickens " frequent the higher parts of the prairie near this lake,
and plover are always available to help fill a bag. A couple of settlers'
houses are close by, and a number of useful skiffs are kept for hire.
Should the sportsman want to put in a couple of days or more under
canvas, he cannot do better than drive from Winnipeg forty miles nor'west
to Shoal Lake. On the way across prairie "chickens" will demand
attention, and about the lake are a few moose and elk, and many black-
tailed deer. The lake is a great resort for water fowl of all kinds common
to the Province, and for mixed shooting it is Ai.
Another good point is Whitewater Lake, in Southern Manitoba,
reached from Winnipeg by a short trip over the Manitoba & Southwestern
Railway. Here "chickens," snipe and plover are found in fair numbers,
and there are thousands of geese, duck, crane, and other water fowl. I
will not soon forget the time put in here last fall, nor will the party there
assembled. One of them broke the action of his gun trying to load in too
big a hurry; another managed to blow the muzzle off a huge "four-bore "
trying to kill a whole flock of geese at once ; while the writer's "twelve-
gauge" and a certain "heavy ten" roared for hours in a fierce race to prove
on crane, Canada, canvas-back and " wavey " the respective merits of little
and big guns, and finally left the question undecided. A number of skiffs
are kept for hire on the lake, which is reached from Boissevain Station.
Near Whitewater are the Tiger Hills, leading into the Pembina Mountains,
haunted by elk, black-tailed deer and black and brown bear, it also being
a good locality for grouse. Camp outfit must be taken, but the sport will
well repay all trouble, as ample occupation can be found for both rifle and
shot-gun. Lake Winnipeg offers still stronger inducements. A choice of
routes is offered to it, either by paddling sixty miles to the mouth of Red
River, or via Canadian Pacific Railway to Selkirk, and then driving
twenty-five miles to the lake. The great marshes about the mouth of Red
River extend for miles, and are probably the largest duck grounds in the
Northwest, and they actually swarm with all kinds of water fowl in the
season. Here the sportsman can shoot till his gun gets too hot to hold,
and, providing he holds straight, kill enormous bags of choice duck. In
the vicinity of Fort Alexander, at the mouth of the Winnipeg River, are
plenty of moose, caribou and bear, and the Winnipeg and English Rivers
offer fascinating routes and grand scenery, should a further trip by canoe
be decided on. Upon the western shore of Lake Winnipeg moose, caribou
and bear will also be found, and about Big Island and Grassy Narrows
uncounted flocks of geese resort. Lake Manitoba is also a noted place for
water fowl—which means that the birds are there in myriads. This latter
lake is reached from Portage la Prairie, and in addition to the geese, duck,
etc., the game list includes "chickens," and moose, elk, and black-tailed
deer in the Riding Mountains. The town of Minnedosa is another promising centre for " chicken," grouse and rabbit shooting, and from here the
Riding Mountains may again be reached. The route to Minnedosa is via
Manitoba & Northwestern Railway from Portage la Prairie. Carberry is
situated in a fine country for " chickens " and duck, and a few moose, elk
and black-tailed deer may be got. Brandon is about the same, there being
plenty of grouse, and a few deer and bear in the bluffs. Capital "chicken''
shooting will be found close to Qu'Appelle, and there is a fine big game
country north of it.    From Regina Long Lake is reached, a rendezvous 68
for a great variety of water fowl. Rush Lake is one of the finest points
for geese, duck and other water fowl in the entire country. They flock
there in prodigious numbers, and there is no place like it for a camping
party. Last fall, while the writer was there, ioo geese and duck a day
would have been only a fair bag for one gun, and any one shooting
steadily might have killed twice that number.
Farther west, again, is the cream of the antelope country, Swift
Current, Maple Creek and Medicine Hat being among the best outfitting
points for a trip after these, the most beautiful animals of the plains. At
Calgary, in sight of the " Rockies," superb sport can be enjoyed with the
grouse among the brushy foot-hills of the giant range. Many years must
needs elapse ere I forget the days spent there last season, for they were
indeed "red-letter days," and the way the feathers flew was a caution to
behold. Any quantity of birds may be found within easy driving distance
of the town, and glorious mountain trout fishing on the Bow River and its
tributaries, to say nothing of the delights of visiting the ranches and being
entertained by those princes of good
fellows, the ranchmen. North of
Calgary is the Red Deer region, a
great one for big game, though but
seldom visited as yet.
So much for the sport of the
prairies. We have now skimmed
over the great grassy sea, touching
briefly on the most prominent of
the many localities to choose from,
the intention being merely to give
the stranger a few hints of the wonderful resources of the country from
a sporting point of view.
Lying in the little tent beside
the chosen water, on the first night
of his jaunt, the sportsman whiffs
the last pipe, and his gaze tries in
vain to pierce the gathering mists
and shadows creeping over the
"level waste and rounding gray"
of apparently illimitable prairie.
Before him stand the tall battalions
of rushes marking the boggy shores
of the lake, dark and mysterious, like a shadowy wall. The air is filled
with the rush of swift wings, as the restless fowl scurry hither and thither
ere settling down. A strange but, to him, wondrous sweet medley of
cries comes with the lazy breeze. The honk of goose, the quack of
mallard, and the chatter and gabble of unseen hosts, are the last sounds
his ears detect as he drifts into the shadowland with a golden promise of
glorious sport with the dawn. The promise will be well fulfilled, for those
same weird cries and the hum of wings will begin ere the early breaking
of the northern day; and when night again falls there will be no apparent
diminution of the winged army, but he will have a noble bag, such as can
only be made in this, the sportsman's El Dorado. THE CANADIAN NORTHWEST.
It should not be forgotten that many of the lakes and streams of the
prairies are plentifully stocked with fine fish, including heavy maskinonge,
pike, pickerel, etc., and they furnish a pleasant change of occupation
during weather too warm for game to keep, or when it is desirable to
give gun and rifle a rest.
Camping outfits, conveyances, helpers, and everything necessary for
a hunting excursion upon the plains can be readily secured at Winnipeg,
and the sportsman need not burden himself with anything beyond his
personal effects. He can enjoy an unsurpassed train service so long as
he follows the railway, and, should he diverge from the line, there are no
hardships to be undergone beyond what are sufficient to give a spice of
adventure to the experience of a holiday in the wilds.
Next to be considered are the " Rockies," the first of the five stupendous ranges lying between the great prairie belt and the Pacific Ocean.
Some 650 miles of the grandest scenery in the world must be passed ere
the western sea is reached, and nearly all of this chaos of mountains is as
wild as it was when first the eyes of a white man were startled by their
overpowering grandeur.
Upon or among these
marvels of old-time rock
building are the favorite
haunts of every "man-
fearing or man-skeering "
brute known in the whole
country—elk, moose, deer, f\ Pi
caribou, Rocky Mountain
sheep and goat, panther,
grizzly, black, and brown
bear, lynx, wolf, etc., etc.,
while water fowl abound
upon many of the mountain lakes, and several varieties of grouse are in the
forests. But you would never come away over here for feathered game,
when it may be so easily got upon the plains. You want big game—
stately elk, fierce bears, sneaky panthers, big-horned sheep, and snowy
goats, etc.? Very good. You shall have 'em, one and all, and caribou
and deer to boot, providing you yourself are game to follow your guide.
You have come to the country of countries for such sport; for, if there
are statelier elk, fiercer bear, sneakier panther, bigger-horned sheep, or
snowier goat, inhabiting this mundane sphere, their place of residence is
not marked upon the map, that's all!
Now, there are places without number among these mountain ranges
where a man can find each and all varieties of the game mentioned ; but
I will confine myself to a few, from which a sportsman may safely plan
his operations. First of these is Morley Station, situated among the foothills a few miles from the entrance to the Rockies. Here the needful
outfit of provisions, etc., can be secured, also a few Stoney Indians as
guides, trackers, and helpers ; and they will show the way to the haunts
of sheep, goat, etc. Naturally the construction of the railway drove the
game back a short distance from the track ,■ but the Stonies know where
the different species are to be found, and they are thoroughly good hunters
and perfectly reliable guides. Temporary accommodation will be found
at Morley.
The next important halting place is at Banff, in the Canadian National
Park, Rocky Mountains, where the railway company has erected a
palatial hotel. Should a brief sojourn here be decided upon, the sportsman may enjoy very good duck shooting on the Vermilion Lakes, a short
distance from the hotel, and fine mountain trout fishing on the Bow and
Cascade Rivers ; also deep trolling for lake trout on Devil's Lake, all
within easy walking distance. White and Indian guides can be secured
for extended trips into the mountains after bear, sheep, and goat, to the
north, south, or west; and the sportsman would be wise to interview the
Government Park Ranger before starting, as in so doing he would probably obtain valuable information.
Farther westward, at Field, is another excellent hotel, and good fly
fishing can be had ; but it is hardly a desirable point for shooting. Still
farther west is the town of Golden, and from here a steamer makes regular
trips up the Columbia River to the lakes at its head, distant about ioo
miles, and thus offering an easy and most attractive route to a fine game
district. Westward, again, the next important stopping place is at the-
foot of the Great Glacier of the Selkirks ; and here, again, the railway
company have provided ample first-class hotel accommodation. Immediately behind the hotel rises the forested height of Asulkan Mountain,
Asulkan meaning in the Siwash tongue "the home of the white goat."
Securing a guide here, you can climb the mountains with almost a certain
chance of getting goat, sheep, and grizzly and black bear.
A new water, and one surely destined to become famous, is the Lower
Kootenay River, which teems with mountain trout of fair size. The few
who have tried it as yet agree that it is one of the best streams available,
while the scenery is simply superb. The country contiguous to it is well
stocked with big game, having only now been rendered accessible. The
Lower Kootenay is reached by steamer from Revelstoke Station, via the
Columbia River and the lovely Arrow Lakes. A month's outing in this
region would be the beau ideal of a sportsman's holiday.
Following the railway still farther towards the Pacific Coast, Sicamous and Salmon Arm Stations are reached. These are on the great
Shuswap Lakes, situated in what is perhaps the finest section for game in
British Columbia. Within a day's journey to the north lies a great caribou range. Upon all the higher mountains are bands of the white goat,
and within thirty odd miles to the south is an unequalled section for deer ;
while, scattered wherever their fancies choose, are promiscuous families of
bears—interesting brutes, no doubt, but not to be encouraged to any
closer intimacy than point-blank rifle range.
At the beautiful summer resort of Harrison Hot Springs, one is in the
midst of a capital district for mountain troutifishing. There is first-class
hotel accommodation, any amount of lovely scenery, and fly-fishing
enough to satisfy all comers. Harrison Springs is reached by stage from
Agazziz Station (five miles), or by steam launch up Harrison River from
Harrison Station.
These are a few already famous localities among the little known,
lately opened fields of the Rockies and mountain ranges of British Columbia. THE CANADIAN NORTHWEST.
At many points on the coast one can obtain all the sport that he
wants with deer, bear, grouse and water fowl. And again another field
is open on Vancouver Island, that lovely land beloved of Englishmen.
Within short distances of the beautiful city of Victoria, grouse and the
blue quail, generally styled California quail, are very plentiful, and favorite
game with the residents and visitors. A short journey into the interior of the island will bring you to the ranges of dear and bear, both
being readily killed. Added to these are several varieties of duck, etc.,
and last of all the English pheasant, introduced several years ago, and
now perfectly acclimated and thriving wonderfully in the new land. The
cry of "mark cock " or "ware hen" may sound strange to many ; but
the newly arrived Briton knows right well what it means, and what rare
sport the long tails furnish—and it's ten to one that he knows how to stop
'em, too.
And now, in conclusion, a few words about the country just covered.
The pursuit of what is generally dubbed by the craft " big game " in
the mountain wilds of Canada is no child's play. To be successful a man
must possess iron nerve and unflinching determination ; he must be a
good shot and strong enough to stand rough work, for the latter is
frequently necessary before the game can be reached, and the former is
very liable to be an extremely useful accomplishment, especially if the
quarry happens to be a grizzly bear.
Sportsmen who have shot in the famous wilds of Africa and India are
apt to feel proud of their Hon, tiger, and other handsome skins that originally covered the works of some lithe and bloodthirsty big feline ; but,
with all due respect to them and their prowess afield, I would sooner have
the hide of a grizzly of my own killing than half a dozen peltries of '' Leo ''
or "Stripes" or any other cat that ever jumped.    You can "pot" your
Hon over a carcass, and
be yourself, meantime,
perfectly safe on some
prepared post or natural
stronghold; you can
bore holes between the
stripes of the fur"blazer"
worn by his feline majesty of Bengal, while you
yourself are squatted in a
howdah strapped to the
back of a twenty-odd
hand elephant, while a
tribe of bare-legged
natives yell and scream
and hoot to keep their
own courage up and
drive the jungle prowler
to "Massah Sahib." You will probably get the tiger, and, should he
charge, experience an excitement something similar to that felt by a
marine perched high in the maintop of some old-fasnioned lmer repelling
boarders ; but there is comparatively little peril in the whole business
for you. 62
Shooting the grizzly has none of these refining influences ; the big
plantigrade is always looking for trouble, and when he digs up the hatchet
look out for squalls. You will have no friendly elephant, nor army of
beaters to satisfy his craving for somebody's scalp ; you start on his track,
and follow him into his gloomy fastnesses amid a chaos of rocks, with your
life in one hand and your rifle in the other ; and, unless you are made of
the right material, stop before the scent gets too hot, or peradventure you
may be found empty-handed by your party.
However, this spice of dan , or rather this danger spiced with a
chance of escape, is very fascinating ; and, if you would fain be fascinated
to your heart's content, seek the Rocky Mountains or British Columbia,
and enjoy your whim.
And such fields for sport! not pen, nor brush, nor tongue can convey
the proper idea of the sublimity of those marvellous mountains ; they are
something too imposing for mere words ; they must be seen and studied.
One must live among them and watch the glories of sunlight upon their
everlasting snows and glaciers ; must climb their steeps and breathe the
cold, thin atmosphere of those dizzy elevations, and train his eyes to
measure soaring pinnacles and dark abysses ere he can realize their stupendous grandeur. One must hear the thunderous voice of the whirling
storms amid their peaks ; the avalanche tearing the forests from their
native slopes ; the avulsion of crag and giant boulder from buttresses frowning darkly above the clouds, and the booming echoes of waves of mighty
sound breaking against the walls of unmeasured ravines ere the full power
of those matchless monuments of the old-time war of forces is impressed
upon the mind. And then the glory of laying low the game that haunts
them. Right well did the Indian hunter know what tested -manhood,
when first he wrenched the great scimeter-shaped claws from the broad
fore-paw of the dead grizzly and strung them around his neck as a token
to prove a man. Things have
changed with time, the rifle has
supplanted the bow, but nothing
has supplanted the grizzly; he is
there yet, and king of the wilds,
and his claws are yet the proudest,
ornament the savage can wear, and
his skin the most valued trophy of
the white sportsman. Up above
the grizzly's range are found the
white goats and the famous bighorn mountain sheep, both eagerly
sought after by sportsmen; the
latter especially, owing to the extreme beauty of their heads.
Outside of the bears the sports-j
man runs little chance of getting
into difficulty.    True, it is claimed
by some that the panther is an ugly
customer, writers even going so far
as to say that he is more dangerous than even the grizzly and sometimes
proves his superiority in a dispute over a carcass.    Such statements I THE CANADIAN NORTHWEST.
believe to be mere rubbish ; for the panther, lithe and powerful though he
be, is, to my notion, a great, long-tailed, be-whiskered coward, a bravo
of most terrifying appearance, but mighty careful of his handsome skin;
in fact, what he is generally termed by the herders and hunters—a big
The handsomest game of the Rockies is, of course, the noble elk, or
wapiti. Their immense branching antlers and the clean-cut, blood-like
appearance of their heads make them particularly attractive ornaments for
a gentleman sportsman's home, and they are in great demand. The
species is now rare in many localities where they formerly abounded, but
they are still plentiful among the foot-hills of the Rockies, and they can
also be found in the Northwest Territories, and in Manitoba north of
Selkirk, and in the Duck and Riding Mountains, and also between Portage
la Prairie and Brandon, as already noted.
rocky mountain sheep. 64,
Next to the elk ranks the caribou, and a right royal quarry he is.
They are very plentiful about Eagle Pass, in the Selkirk range and near
the Shuswap Lakes, and there should be no difficulty in securing fine specimens. They also abound in Manitoba in the region between Lakes
Winnipeg and Manitoba, etc., and wonderful stories are told of great herds
in the Peace River country.
The several species comprising the game list mentioned above are
distributed throughout the mountains in greater or less numbers, being
plentiful wherever the conditions are favorable. More minute details concerning them are impossible in a book of this nature, and unnecessary, as
the game, except at a point here and there, is as abundant as it was before
the first rifle shot woke the echoes of those monstrous canons.
The sportsman contemplating a trip by the Canadian Pacific Railway across the continent to these incomparable fields, must bear in mind
that heavy weapons are needed for satisfactory work. Lighter ones may
do—the Indians kill grizzlies with the lightest Winchester rifles—but my
advice is to take a repeater of the" heaviest make. Plenty of powder and
lead means sure work if the rifle is held right, and by using such you will
lose less wounded game, and greatly lessen the risk of a clawing from some
Infuriated bear. The Indians, it must be remembered, are greatly your
superiors, both in the approach of, or retreat from, dangerous game ; they
steal noiselessly and patiently upon their victim, and never fire until they
are at close range, and sure of dropping it in its tracks. You will not be
able to accomplish this, and therefore require a weapon that deadly
execution at any reasonable distance. Properly equipped you will drop
your bear or elk cleanly and well; and when your holiday is done, and
you are speeding homeward by the " Royal Road," with your muscles
strong after glorious work, and your skin farmed by the mountain air, you
will think over every moment of your outing ; of the splendor of the sunrise,, the magnificence of the scenery ; the glaciers, the torrents, and the
thousand and one marvels of the wonderland you have left; of your
beautiful trophies, and of your reunion with dear ones at home ; and as
you take your last backward glance, and your straining eyes catch the
last glint of the snow-clad peaks you will say, "My heart's in the
mountains." CLOSE  SEASONS  FOR   GAME  AND  FISH. 65
£< YNOPSIS of laws governing shooting and fishing in the Prov-
^ inces and States traversed by the Canadian Pacific Railway
Note. -The following condensations of the Game Laws, etc.,
have been carefully revised, and made as correct as possible up to
the date of the issue of this pamphlet. Owing to the fact that game
laws are frequently changed, absolute accuracy is not guaranteed.
Shooting.—Moose and caribou protected entirely until 15th
October, 1895. ... No deer shall be hunted, taken, or killed
between November 20th and October 15th following. . . . Beaver, muskrat, mink, sable, marten, otter, or fisher, ist May to ist
November. . . . Quail and wild turkeys, December 15th to October 15th. . . . Grouse, pheasants, prairie fowl, or partridge, ist
January to ist September. . . . Woodcock, ist January to 15th
August. . . . Snipe, rail, golden plover, ist January to ist September. , . . Swans and geese, ist May to ist September. . . .
Ducks of all kinds and other water fowl, ist January to ist September.    .    .    .    Hare, 15th March to 1st September.
No person who has not been a resident of this Province or
Quebec for three months next before October 15th, can kill deer, except he hold a permit from the Commissioner of Crown Lands, which
may be obtained for $10. No person shall kill more than five deer;
no two, hunting together, more than eight; and no party of three or
more, more than twelve.
No person shall kill or take any moose, elk, reindeer, caribou,
deer, or partridge or quail, for the purpose of exporting the same out
of Ontario. No person shall»sell any quail killed in Ontario before
October 15th, 180,2.
Fishing.—Salmon, trout and whitefish, between the ist and
30th November. . . . Fresh water herring, from 15th October
to ist December. . . . Speckled trout, brook trout, river trout,
from 15th September to ist May. . . . Bass and maskinonge,
15th April to 15th June.    .    .    .    Pickerel, 15th April to 15th May.
Shooting.—Deer, from ist January to ist October. . . .
Moose and caribou, from ist February to ist September.
N. B. -The hunting of moose, caribou, or deer with dogs or by
means of snares, traps, etc., is prohibited. No person [white man or
Indian] has a right, during one season's hunting, to kill or take alive
--unless he has previously obtained a permit from the Commissioner
of Crown Lands for that purpose—more than two moose, two caribou
and three deer. After the first ten days of the close season, all railways and steamboat companies and public carriers are forbidden to
carry the whole or any part [except the skin] of any moose, caribou
or deer, without being authorized thereto by the Commissioner of
Beaver, mink, otter, marten, pekan, from 1st April to ist Nov-
ember. . . . Hare, from ist February to ist November. . . .
Muskrat [only in the counties of Maskinonge, Yamaska, Richelieu,
and Berthier], from ist May to ist April following. . . . Woodcock, snipe, partridge of any kind, from ist February to ist September. . . . Black duck, teal, wild duck of any kind [except sheldrake, loo and gull], from ist May to ist September. . . . [And
at any time of the year, between one hour after sunset and one hour
before sunrise, and also to keep exposed during such prohibited
hours, lures or decoys, etc.]. . . . Insectivorous birds, etc.,
protected between ist March and ist September. . . . It is
unlawful to take nests or eggs at any time.
N. B.—Fine of $2 to $100, or imprisonment in default of payment. [No person who is not domiciled in the Province of Quebec,
nor in that of Ontario, can at any time hunt in this Province without
having previously obtained a license to that effect from the Commissioner of Crown Lands.    Such permit is not transferable.]
Fishing.—Salmon [fly-fishing] from 15th August to ist February. . . . Speckled trout \salmo fontinalis] from ist October
to ist January. . . . Large gray trout, lake trout and ouananiche,
from 15th October to ist December. . . . Pickerel [dor/~\ from
15th April to 15th May. . . . Bass and maskinonge, from 15th
April to 15th June. . . . Whitefish, from 10th November to ist
No person, who is not domiciled in the Province of Quebec, can
at any time fish in the lakes or rivers of this Province, not actually
under lease, without having previously obtained a license to that
effect from the Commissioner of Crown Lands. Such licenses are
only valid for the time, place and persons therein indicated.
Shooting.—Moose, caribou, deer or red deer, from 15th January
to ist September. . . . Cow moose are protected at all times.
No person shall kill or take more than one moose, two
caribou and three deer or red deer, during any one year. . . .
Beaver, otter, mink, sable and fisher, ist May to ist September.
. . . Grouse or partridge, ist December to 20th September. . . .
Woodcock, ist December to ist September. . . . Snipe, ist March
to 15th September. . . . Black duck, wood duck and teal, 1st
May to ist September. . . . Other ducks, brant, geese and other
water fowl shall not be hunted with artificial light, nor with swivel
nor punt guns, or trapped or netted at any time. . . . Sea-gulls
are protected in the parish of Grand Manan at all seasons; songbirds and insectivorous birds, entirely protected. . . . No person,
not having his domicile in the Province of New Brunswick, shall be
entitled to hunt or kill any game bird, or animal, or fur-bearing
animal, in the Province, without a license, which may be obtained
from the Provincial Secretary, Fredericton, N. B., or from the Chief
Game Commissioner, St. John, N. B., by payment of a fee of $20—
license to be in force for one year from the ist day of September in CLOSE SEASONS FOR GAME AND FISH.
each year.    Officers of Her Majesty's service can obtain a license
for $5.
Fishing.—Salmon (net fishing), 15th August to ist March.   .   .
Salmon (angling),  15th August to ist February.    .    .    .    Speckled
trout, 15th September to ist May.    .    .    .    Large gray trout, lunge,
winninish and land-locked salmon, 15th September to ist May.    The
use of explosives or poisonous substances for killing fish is illegal.
Shooting.—Moose and caribou, from ist February to 15th September. . . . No person shall kill or take more than two moose
and four caribou during any one year. ... No hunting of moose
or caribou with dogs allowed. . . . Beaver, from ist April to
ist November. . . . Hare, from ist March to ist October. . . .
Otter, mink and furred animals, from ist May to ist November.
. . . Grouse or partridge, from ist January to 15th September.
. . . Woodcock, snipe and teal, from ist March to 20th August.
. . . Insectivorous birds protected at all times. . . . Nonresidents of Nova Scotia must take out license to shoot in the
Province, obtainable from the Provincial Secretary, or parties possessing needful authority.
Fishing.—Salmon, from 15th August to ist February, with fly.
.    .    .   Trout, land-locked salmon, from ist October to ist April.
Shooting.—None of the animals and birds hereafter mentioned
in this section shall be shot at, hunted, trapped, taken or killed on
any Sunday, or between the dates named in any year, nor shall any
common carrier carry them, in whole or in part (except the skin),
within the said periods.
All kinds of deer, including antelope, elk, or wapiti, moose,
reindeer, or caribou, or their fawns, between ist December and ist
October. . . . The grouse known as prairie chickens and partridges, between ist December and ist September. . . . Woodcock,
plover, snipe and sandpipers, between ist January and ist August.
. . . All kinds of wild duck, sea duck, wigeon, teal, wild swan
and wild goose (except the snow goose or wavey), between ist May
and ist September. . . . Otter, fisher or pekan, beaver, muskrat
and sable, between 15th May and ist October. . . . Marten, between
15th April and ist November.
No birds or animals, excepting fur-bearing animals, shall be
trapped, nor shall any swivel guns, batteries or night lights, be used
to kill swans, geese or ducks ; nor shall any beaver or muskrat house
be destroyed at any time; nor shall poison or poisonous bait be
exposed for any animal or bird.
No eggs of the birds mentioned may at any time be taken or had
in possession. This act does not apply to Indians on their reserves.
No person or corporation shall at any time export any of the animals
or birds mentioned. Persons without a domicile in the Province
must take out a license, costing $25, to kill any of the animals or birds named ; but the minister may grant a free permit to a guest of
a resident in the Province.
Fishing.—Speckled trout, from ist October to ist January.
.   .    .   Pickerel [dore], from 15th April to 15th May.
Shooting.—Elk, moose, caribou, antelope, deer, or fawn,
mountain sheep or goat, or hare, from ist February to ist September.
. . . Snipe, from 1st May to 15th August. . . . Grouse, partridge, pheasant or prairie chicken, ist February to ist September.
. . . Wild duck and geese, from 15th May to 15th August.
. . . Beaver and otter, from 15th May to ist October. . . .
Mink, fisher and marten, from 15th April to ist November.
. . . Muskrat, from 15th May to ist November. These restrictions do not apply north of a line drawn ioo miles north of the North
Saskatchewan River.
Fishing.—Speckled trout, from ist October to ist January.
.    .    .    Pickerel [dore], from 15th April to 15th May.
Shooting.—Cow elk and hen pheasant protected at all times.
. . . Deer, elk, reindeer, caribou, mountain goat, mountain sheep
and hare, from 20th December to 15th August, . . . Grouse,
partridge, prairie fowl, California and Virginia quail, from ist
February to ist September. . . . Cock pheasant, from ist February to ist October. . . . Wild duck, from ist March to 1st
September. . . . Quail and cock pheasant are protected entirely
upon the mainland of British Columbia until ist September, 1894.
.    .    .    Gulls are protected at all times.
Fishing.—Trout, from 15th October to 15th March.
Shooting.—Moose, deer, or. caribou, ist January to 1st October. . . . Deer on Mt. Desert Island, ist January to ist November. And no person shall have in his possession between ist October and ist January, more than one moose, two caribou, and three
deer. . . . Mink, beaver, sable, otter, fisher, or muskrat, 1st
May to 15th October. Wood duck, black duck, dusky duck, sea
duck, ist April to ist September, except on sea-coast. . . .
Ruffed grouse, partridge and woodcock, ist December to ist September, and cannot be transported out of the State at any season. . . .
Pinnated grouse, commonly called prairie chicken, ist January to ist -
September. . . . Quail, ist December to ist October. . . .
Plover, ist May to ist August. . . . Insectivorous birds are
protected at all seasons.   Sunday is a close time for all game and birds.
Fishing.—Land-locked salmon, trout, and togue, ist October
to ist May, excepting on St. Croix and tributaries, and waters in
Kennebec County, 15th September to ist May; also on certain
streams around Rangeley Lakes, from ist July to ist May. . . .
Citizens of the State, however, may fish for and convey to their
homes during February, March and April, excepting on the Range- ley Lakes. Black bass and white perch, ist April to ist July.
. . . None of the fish named to be taken at any time, except in
ordinary mode of angling with single-baited hook or artificial flies.
. . . Salmon, from 15th July to ist April, but may be taken with
single-baited hook or artificial flies, from ist April to 15th September.
. . . Land-locked salmon and trout not to be transported except
in possession of the owner, and not more than fifty pounds of both
together by one person.
Shooting.—Deer protected entirely until ist November, 1900. -
. . . Mink, beaver, fisher, or otter, ist April to ist November.
. . . Woodcock, ist February to 15th August. . . . Quail,
wood-duck and grouse, wild goose and wild duck, from ist February
to ist September, but at no time may they be sent out of the State for
traffic or gain. . . . Wild geese or ducks, ist May to 1st September.    .    .    .    Insectivorous birds protected at all seasons.
Fishing.—Trout, land-locked salmon, trout or "longe" [the
latter is the local name for salmon or lake trout], ist September to
ist May. . . . Black bass, ist February to ist June. . . .
Bass under 10 inches must be returned to the water. Wall-eyed pike
[pike perch], pike and pickerel, ist February to ist June.
Shooting.—Deer (upper peninsula), from 15th November to
25th September. . . . Deer, elsewhere, from 1st December to
ist November. . . . Wild turkey, from ist December to ist
November. . . . Prairie chicken, protected until jst September,
1894. . . . Woodcock, partridge, ruffed grouse, from ist January to ist September. . . . Quail, protected until ist November,
1894. . . . Duck, red-head, blue-bill, canvas-back, widgeon,
pintail, and wild geese and jack-snipe, from ist May to ist September. . . . Other duck, water fowl and snipe, from ist January
to ist September.    Game not to be shipped out of State.
Fishing.—Speckled trout, land-locked salmon, grayling or California trout, from 1st September to ist May. . . . Muskallonge,
black bass, white, strawberry and green bass, from ist March to ist
July. . . . Trout, California trout, land-locked salmon, or grayling, less than six inches in length must not be taken.
Shooting.—Deer may not be killed lawfully between ist December and 15th October following. . . . Otter, mink, and
marten, ist May to ist November. . . . Woodcock, quail, partridge, pheasant, prairie chickens, and grouse of all kinds, squirrels,
snipe, and all water fowl, 15th December to ist August.
Fishing.—Brook, rainbow, and mountain trout, ist September
to 15th April. . . . Mackinaw or lake trout, ist October to 15th
January. . . . Pike, ist March to ist May. . . . Black,
green, and Oswego bass, and maskinonge (or muskallonge), ist February to ist May. . . . Whitefish (in inland lakes with nets),
15th December to 10th November. 70
W. C. Van Horne President Montreal.
T. G. Shaughnessy Assistant President        ",
■ Charles Drinkwater Secretary	
George Olds General Traffic Manager        "
Henry Beatty Manager Steamship Lines and Lake Traffic.Toronto.
I. G. Ogden  Comptroller Montreal.
D. McNicoll '.General Passenger Agent        "
C. E. E. Ussher Assistant General Passenger Agent        "
W. Sutherland Taylor..Treasurer        "
L. A. Hamilton Land Commissioner Winnipeg.
H. P. Timmerman General Sup't Atlantic Division St. John, N. B.
Thos. Tait Gen'l Supt., Ontario & Quebec Division Toronto.
C. W. Spencer General Superintendent, Eastern Division..Montreal.
Wm. Whyte Gen'l Superintendent, Western Division . .Winnipeg.
Harry Abbott General Superintendent, Pacific Division,Vancouver.
G. M. Bosworth Asst. Ft. Traffic Man., O. & Q., A. &E. Divs.,Toronto.
Robert Kerr Gen'l Ft. and Pass. Ag't, W. & P. Divs Winnipeg.
D. E. Brown Asst. Gen'l Ft. & Pass. Ag't,W.& P. Divs.Vancouver.
C. E. McPherson Asst. Gen'l Pass. Ag't, Atlantic Div., St. John, N. B.
E. Tiffin General Freight Agent, Atlantic Div., St. John, N. B.
J. N. Sutherland General Freight Agent, Ontario Division... Toronto.
A. C. Henry Purchasing Agent Montreal.
H. L. Penny Auditor of Disbursements  "
J. H. Shearing Auditor of Passenger Receipts         "
C. J. Flanagan Auditor of Freight and Telegraph Receipts        "
J. Osborne Supt. Car Service         "
J. A. Sheffield Supt. Sleep'g, Din'g& Parlor Cars & Hotels        "
E. S. Anderson General Baggage Agent,         '•
Adelaide   Aus.. .Agents Oceanic Steamship Co.
Baltimore Md.-j
Bombay Br. India.
Boston Mass
Brockville Ont..
Buffalo N. Y..
Calcutta Br. India.
Chicago III..
Colombo Ceylon.
Detroit Mich..
Glasgow Scotland..
Halifax N. S..
Hamilton .Ont..
Hiogo Japan..
H. McMurtrie, Fr't and Pass. Aeent ■! 2°3 East ?er_
s       i        man St.
Thomas Cook & Son 13 Rampart Row.
H. J. Colvin, N. E. P. A 211 Washington St.
G. A.Titcomb, City Pass. Agt.. " .   " "
.Geo. E. McGlade, Ticket Agent 145 Main St.
.Norman Foster, Fr't and Pass. Agt. 14 Exchange St.
.Thos. Cook& Son n Old Court House St.
J. Francis Lee, D. F. & P. Agent,232 South Clark St.
.E. B. Creasy, Forwarding Agency.
J C. Sheehy, Dist. Pass. Agent....n Fort St., West.
' j Geo. R.Van Norman, Dist Pass. Ag't. " "
.Archer Baker, Europ. Traf. Agent... .25 Gordon St.
.C. R. Barry, Ticket Agent 126 Hollis St.
.W. J. Grant, Ticket Agent 8 James St., South.
G. B. Dodwell, Gen. Agent China and Japan.
Adamson, Bell & Co., Agents China.
.Archer Baker, Europ. Traf. Agent 7 James St.
Archer Baker, Europ. Traf. Agt. -j 6]££S£'m£ ^U"
E. M. Peel, Ticket Agent 1 Masonic Temple.
.Archer Baker, Europ. Traf. Agt 105 Market St.
Wm. F. Egg, Dist. Pass. Agt Windsor St. Sta.
A. B. Chaffee, Jr., City Pass. Agt., 266 St. James St.
W. B. Bulling, Jr., Dist. Fr't Agt., Windsor St. Sta.
E. V. Skinner, Gen. East. Agt 353 Broadway.
J.Ottenheimer, Land & Emigra'n Agt., 21 Broadway
E. Frazar, Chinaand Japan Fr't Agt., 124 Water St.
.D. Isaacs, Ticket Agent Prospect House.
.Geo. M. Colburn Clifton House.
J. E. Parker, City Pass. Agent 42 Sparks St.
J. A. Houston, Dist. Freight Agt 42 Sparks St.
H. McMurtrie, F. and P. A.... { HH
.M.L. Williams, Maine Central R. R.
.W. S. Hineline, F. and P. A 146 First St.
.James Jones 90 Taylor St.
.J. W. Ryder, Frt. and Pass. Agent.St. Louis Hotel.
.Thos. Cook & Son Merchant Street.
.T. R. Harvey 37 Ashmun St.
.H. Chubb & Co., Ticket Agents Chubbs Corner.
M. M. Stern, Dis. Fr't & Pass. Agt.,Chronicle B'ld'g.
D. B. Jackson, Pass. Agent. .4 New Montgomery St.
Goodall, Perkins & Co.
Pacific Coast Steamship Co 10 Market St.
.E. W. MacGinnes. .Starr-Boyd Building, Front St.
. Adamson, Bell & Co.
.Geo. Duncan, Ticket Agent 6 Commercial St.
.Agent Oceanic S. S. Co	
.W. R. Thompson, Fr't & Pass. Agt., 901 Pacific Ave.
.W. R. Callaway, Dist. Pass. Agt., 118 King St., W.
.G. McL. Brown, Ticket Agent	
.Allan Cameron, Fr't and Pass. Agt. Government St.
. W. M. McLeod, City Ticket Agent 471 Main St.
.Frazar & Co., Agents for Japan.
Hong Kong China. -
Liverpool Eng..
London Eng. \
London Ont...
Manchester Eng..
Montreal Que.-]
New York N. Y.-<
Niagara Falls N.Y..
Niagara Falls Ont..
Ottawa Ont.j
Philadelphia Pa.-j
Portland.. Me..
Portland Ore..
Pt. Townsend Wash..
Quebec Que..
Rangoon Br. India.
S. Ste. Marie Mich..
St. John N. B..
San Francisco Cal. -j
Seattle Wash..
Shanghai China..
Sherbrooke Que..
Sydney Aus..
Tacoma Wash..
Toronto Ont..
Vancouver B. C.
Victoria B.C..
Winnipeg Man..
Yokohama Japan..
Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son, Tourist Agents, are also authorized Agents of
the Canadian Pacific Railway, and can supply tickets and information.
vs. el 5
1 The  ]\lew  jHighway   to   the   Orient."
fiummer  Tours.
Fishing and ^hooting.
Time-Table with jNotes.
dA\so a complete and Valuable illusfrafed series freafin;f
of africulfural capabilities of 09esfern panada;
offers detfofed fo W& (JomjDan^'s ftoffIs,
and also ilqe new
The first three are handsomely illustrated, and ' contain much
jseful information in interesting shape. The time-table with notes
and the Japanese Guide will be found valuable companions for
all travelers. Copies of any or all of these may be obtained FREE
from Agents of the Company.
 ■ ASK   FOR  THEM,->-«-=	
W. F, EGG, District Passenger Agent,
Windsor Street Station, MONTREAL.
W. R. CAWLAWAY, District Passenger Agent,
118 King Street W, TORONTO.
C. E. McPHERSON, Ass't Gen'l Passenger Agent,
211 Washington St., BOSTON and ST. JOHN, N. B.
E. V. SKINNER, General Eastern Agent,
353 Broadway, NEW YORK.
J. E. JLEK, District Freight and Passenger Agent,
232 South Clark St., CHICAGO, ILL.
C. SHEEHY, District Passenger Agent,
11 Fort Street W., DETROIT, MICH.
R. KERR, General Passenger Agent,
W. & P.'Divs., WINNIPEG, MAN.
D. E. BROWN, Ass't Gen'l Passenger Agent,
W. & P. Divs., VANCOUVER, B.C.
M. M. STERN, District Passenger Agent,
Chronicle Building, SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.
ARCHER BAKER, European Traffic Agent,
67 King William Street, LONDON, E. <C., ENG.
D. McNICOLL, General Passenger Agent, MONTREAL. Canadian Pacific Railway
The season of 1891 witnesses the birth of a fast steamship service on the Pacific—between the port of Vancouver and those of
Japan, a country which is fast advancing to a foremost place in
the attention of tourists, is now no longer impossible or only to be
visited at a great expense of time and money—ten days barely gives
time to make acquaintances when Yokohama is reached. The
tourist from New York, or any Of the large eastern cities having 60
days to spare can—just think of it—see Japan and spend a month in
visiting its many-strange attractions. Notwithstanding improvements in service the fares are being reduced.
■ The route from Vancouver is 300 miles shorter than any other
trans-Pacific route, and Vancouver is several hundred miles nearer
to the Atlantic than any other Pacific port.
The steamships " Empress of India," Empress of Japan," and
" Empress of China," built under contract with the Imperial Government, to carry the Royal Mails, have developed a speed of over 19
knots per hour. They are each 6000 tons burden, 485 feet in length
and 51 feet in breadth and are propelled by twin screws, the engines
being triple expansion.
Special attention has been paid to strength and safety. The
hulls, in addition to having double bottoms extending their full
length, are divided into numerous water tight compartments, thus
rendering them practically unsinkable.
The cabins are large and roomy and contain all the modern
improvements, many new features being added ; no expense has
been spared in the luxurious fittings. The promenades are extensive and free from obstructions. The saloons, smoking rooms,
social halls and all passenger accommodations are amidships and
surpass anything afloat. The vessels are lighted throughout with
electricity—in a word, modern marine architecture has in these palaces
excelled itself.
For sailings, rates, berths, and information, apply to
R. KERR, Gen'l PassV Agent; W. & P. Divs., WINNIPEG.
D. E. BROWN, Ass't Gen'l PassV Agent, W. & P. Divs., VANCOUVER, B. C.
C. E. MoPHERSON, Ass't Gen'l Pass'r Agent, 'j> „„„_„»,
ST. JOHN, N.B. and 211 Washington Street, BOSTON,
E. V. SKINNER, General Eastern Agent, 353 Broadway, NEW YORK.
W. F. EGG, District Pass'r Agent, Windsor Street Station, MONTREAL.
J. F. LEE, Commercial Agent, 232 So. Clark Street, CHICAGO.
C. SHEEHY, District Pass'r Agent, 11 Fort Street W„ DETROIT, MICH.
W. R   CALLAWAY, District Pass'r Agent, 118 King Street W., TORONTO.
M. M. STERN, District Pass'r Agent, Chronicle Building, SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.
a. B   DODWELL, General Agent China and Japan, SHANGHAI, CHINA.
ARCHER BAKER, European Traffic Agent,
25 Gordon Street, GLASGOW, SCOTLAND.
67 and 68 King William, LONDON, E. C, ENG.
105 Market Street, MANCHESTER, ENGLAND.
MclVICOL,!*,   General   Passenger   Agent,   MONTREAL. 


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