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Atlantic coast resorts Canadian Pacific Railway Company 1929

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Array Atiantic Co/m
The Algonquin, St. Andrews.
A Canadian Pacific Hotel.
The social centre of Canada's most fashionable seashore summer
resort, charmingly situated overlooking Passamaquoddy Bay. Two golf
courses (18 and 9 holes), bathing, yachting, boating, bowling green,
deep sea and fresh water fishing, tennis, etc. In summer has through
sleeping car service to Montreal. Open June 22nd to September 10th.
American plan.
McAdam Hotel, McAdam.
A Canadian Pacific Hotel.
A commercial hotel at an important junction point; also for the
sportsman, the starting point into a magnificent fishing and big game
country.    Open all year.   American plan.
The Pines, Digby.
Operated by The Dominion Atlantic Railway.
A beautiful hotel overlooking the Digby Basin, long a favorite with
visitors to this delightful part of Nova Scotia, and this year greatly
enlarged. Golf, tennis, sailing, boating, deep sea fishing, motor trips
to Annapolis Valley, etc.   Open June 25 to Sept. 12.  American plan.
Cornwallis Inn, Kentville.
Operated by The Dominion Atlantic Railway.
A commercial and tourist hotel in the leading centre of the Annapolis Valley. Motor rides to beaches and to Grand Pre, in Evangeline's
country.      Open all year.  American plan.
The Lord Nelson, Halifax.
Operated by the Lord Nelson Hotel Company.
A beautiful new hotel in Nova Scotia's capital, facing the Public
Gardens. Suited equally to the requirements of the tourist or of the
commercial visitor.   Open all year.   European plan.
The Royal York,
Toronto, Ont.
Place Viger Hotel
Montreal, Quebec
Chateau Frontenac
Quebec, Quebec.
The largest hotel in the British Empire.
Opening June 1929. European plan. Open
all year.
A charming hotel in Canada's largest city.
Open all year.
A  metropolitan hotel—in the most historic city of North America. Open all year.
Royal Alexandra Hotel,
Winnipeg, Manitoba
Hotel Saskatchewan,
Regina, Sask.
Hotel Palliser,
Calgary, Alberta
Banff Springs Hotel,
Banff, Alberta
Chateau Lake Louise,
Lake Louise, Alberta
Emerald Lake Chalet,
near Field, B.C.
Hotel Sicamous,
Sicamous, B.C.
A popular hotel in the largest city of
Western Canada. Open all year.
A new and most modern hotel. Good golfing and motoring. European plan. At
station. Open all year.
A handsome hotel of metropolitan standard.    Open all year.
A magnificent hotel in the heart of the
Rocky Mountains National Park. Open
May 15th to October 1st.
A wonderful hotel facing an exquisite
Alpine Lake in Rocky Mountains National Park. Open June 1st to October 1st
A charming Chalet hotel situated amidst
the picturesque scenery of the Yoho
National Park. Open June 15th to
Sept. 15th.
Junction for the orchard districts of the
Okanagan Valley.    Open all year.
Hotel Vancouver, The largest hotel on the North Pacific
Vancouver, B.C. Coast.    Open all year.
Empress Hotel, A luxurious hotel in this Garden City of
Victoria, B.C. the Pacific Coast.    Open all year. Summer by the sea—how much
we who stay forever inland miss!
For the call of the ocean, a call
almost as old as the ocean itself,
sounds clear, insistent, in summer
time to those who have, in the
words of the poem, "been long in
city pent." It booms like the
sound of the waves in the magic
sea-shell that one held to one's ear
in childhood.
Cool refreshing days and nights,
and a wind wet with salt whipping
in across miles of tumbling waters;
sunny skies above warm golden
sands; the briny sprays in one's
face; the restless motion, the bright
dazzling sand, the wheeling of gulls,
the crescendo of the incoming tide
—there is something soothing in the
thoughts of these.
More than that: there are
companions and music, the joys of
the open, the effortless pleasures
and ease of luxurious outdoors,
stately ships passing, fisher-folk at
work with the age-old calm of the
sea—gaiety or quiet, activity or
repose. The ocean offers all, and
you choose as you please.
GfSl %Sorts
This old ocean must love Canada's Maritime
Provinces, for it is not content to edge them here and
there. It surrounds them, almost. The Maritime
Provinces must love the ocean too, for scattered along
the rambling beauty of their coasts are countless
resorts inviting the world to come and play. New
Brunswick has the charming St. Andrews-by-the-Sea.
Across the Bay of Fundy lies Evangeline's Land,
quaint and old in its Acadian simplicity—the lovely
shores of Nova Scotia, with Digby, Annapolis, Smith's
Cove, and fortress-guarded Halifax.
Back a bit from the coast, never very far, lies the
broad forest-country, offering the sportsman excellent
fishing in summer, and in the fall, big-game hunting
of the very best.
A little lower down the Atlantic Coast, not truly in
Canada, but just across the line, is the Maine Coast,
with its cluster of delightful resorts. En route there
are the White Mountains of New Hampshire and the
Maine Woods.
The Canadian Pacific wings you east from Montreal
to the Atlantic Coast resorts, through the pastoral
beauty of the Eastern Townships, through the woods
of Maine, away to New Brunswick, the Bay of Fundy,
Nova Scotia, Boston and Portland. Evangeline's
Land, across in Nova Scotia, is traversed throughout
its long length by the Dominion Atlantic Railway.
At the end of this booklet is a large map of the
Atlantic Coast resorts reached and served by the
Canadian Pacific.
Page One At the side is a
picture of Mount
Kineo Hotel, on
Moosehead La\e,
Maine. As will
be seen from the
map, the Cana^
dian Pacific, en
route to the Marv
time Provinces,
passes this magnv
ficent body of
We can appropriately begin our journey to the Atlantic Coast
from Montreal, Canada's largest city; for although we may have
come from farther west or farther south, the mighty city that lies
under the shadow of Mount Royal is the converging-point of
transportation from all points of the compass. Crossing the noble
St. Lawrence River, upon which Montreal is situated, and turning
east, our route is at first through the picturesque and fertile
region called "The Eastern Townships," comprising some of the
richest farmlands and the most beautiful rivers and lakes in the
Province of Quebec.
The Eastern Townships
The first point of tourist importance passed is Magog, situated
on the shore of Lake Memphremagog, a magnificent sheet of
water about thirty miles long, whose southern end touches the
state of Vermont. The lake is dotted by many islands and is
surrounded by rugged, heavily wooded hills and green farmlands.
Magog itself houses many summer people; and from it a steamer
makes trips down the lake during the summer season, touching,
according to the day, at all important points.
Sherbrooke is the metropolis of the _ Eastern Townships,
situated at the junction of the St. Francis and Magog rivers.
The city has some delightful parks and charming homes, public
buildings and institutions, good hotels and pleasant driveways.
Near Sherbrooke lies Lake Massawippi, a lovely expanse of
water about nine miles long and a mile wide.
Megantic, the next important point, makes an appeal probably more to campers and sportsmen than to those in search of
a summer resort. It lies on Lake Megantic, a sheet of water 12
miles long by about 4 wide, x^t Boundary the mountains which
divide Quebec from Maine are passed, and then the route, for over
200 miles, is through this beautiful American state.
Moosehead Lake
Moosehead Lake is the largest sheet of water in New England,
with a length of 40 miles and a width of from 13^2 to 20 miles. The
crowning gem of Moosehead is Mount Kineo, towering a thousand
feet above the lake, which is itself a thousand feet above sea level.
This majestic peak is a solid mass of flint. At the base of this
mountain is one of New England's most palatial hotels, The Mount
Kineo, operated by The SamOset Company, a subsidiary of the
Maine Central Railroad. As a fishing resort, Moosehead has few
equals, and on account of its great depth the fish grow to great
size and are famed for their fighting qualities. Large catches of
trout, togue and land-locked salmon are made throughout the
Steamers navigate the lake, and the numerous sporting camps
and hotels are easily reached from either Greenville Junction or
Kineo Station (Maine Central).
Still travelling through a country of comparative wilderness, at
Vanceboro we re-cross the international border and enter New
Brunswick, largest of the Maritime Provinces. This province is
a paradise for sportsmen; not only are many kinds of big game
to be found within its borders, from the majestic moose downwards, but its countless streams teem with fish, including salmon,
trout and bass. McAdam is the centre from which vast areas of
this fine sporting country can be reached; and a convenient Canadian Pacific hotel at the station forms an ideal stopping-off place.
From McAdam it is an 85-mile run to Saint John, paralleling
the noble Saint John River through a region of alternate forest
and cleared agricultural land. A branch line runs from Fredericton Junction to Fredericton, the provincial capital (see page 4).
Presently the river draws closer, and running past a series of
pretty little summer resorts we enter Saint John.
The oldest incorporated town in British North America, and
the largest city of the province, the grey and ancient city of Saint
John, climbing over its surrounding hills, entices even the ardent
camper from the woods and whispers glowing stories of the past.
Every scene, every vista, is a link with gallant deed and adventure
gay, and with achievement that rose triumphant above despair.
The beautiful harbor, where in winter nineteen lines of steamers meet, tells of by-gone days, of wooden ships and iron men,
when the flags of a hundred nations fluttered high atop the forest
of masts. Saint John ranked then fourth in the British Empire
as a ship-owning port, and even today the glamor of the past
is not altogether lost.
Page Two Above is seen the
harbor of Saint
John. At the side
is McAdam, junc
tion point for lines
that penetrate some
of Njzw Brum-
wicl(s finest sport'
ing territory, and
possessing a Cana'
dian Pacific Hotel.
Saint John has one of thelargest dry docks in the world, 1,150
feet long, and capable of docking the largest ship afloat. Much of
the waterfront is reclaimed land, and bears little resemblance to
that which de la Tour found in the days when he and Charnisay
contested for supremacy at the mouth of the mighty river Saint
John. Nor would the Loyalist settlers recognize their "landing
place," although it is now marked with a giant stone. Fire and
tide have changed the face of old Saint John, but at heart it is
still a City of the Sea.
Look at the quaintest of quaint old street lamps, boasting of
three heads which at night glow like a cluster of wine-colored stars
—an ancient signal, of course, for men whose calling was the sea.
And these will remind you that Saint John had the world's first
steam fog whistle. It was erected on Partridge Island, called by
Champlain "The Isle of Pheasants/'which was one of the numerous suburban residences of Glooscap, the mythical Micmac hero.
It was really Glooscap who constructed Partridge Island, for the tale runs that in demolishing the dam built by Great Beaver, an
enemy of his people, Glooscap cracked off
one entire end of it. This mound of rock
"floated" down the river and lodged on its
present site! A part of the hero's club,
called Split Rock, is still visible under the
Highway Bridge.
A Romantic Background
Half the charm of Saint John will be
lost to the visitor who does not revive its
romantic, historical background. The
story of Madame de la Tour, for example, is
but one of the romances that intensify
the appeal of the city in which her body
lies in an unidentified grave. An appreciation of the events prior to the construction
of Fort Howe makes climbing to the
scarred eminence where its ruins moulder
very much more worth while. High above
the city, you look down upon the magnificent harbor strewn with swinging ships.
In sunlight, the panorama is superb, but
in thin fog, when grey ghosts of vessels
move stealthily to the clamor of bells and
hoarse-voiced horns, when their green
lights quiver and their red ones look like a
faint blush in the mist, the sheer beauty
of the scene catches at your throat.
Beautiful Squares
Saint John is justly proud of its half-dozen open spaces, called
squares not parks. They were provided for when Paul Bedell
laid out the city in 1784. King Square is one of the most lovely of
these. It lies in the heart of the city, and close by is the old Loyalist
Burying Ground. You can sit here surrounded by the ancient
tombstones, by the fragrance of the flowers, listen to the soft
melody of gentle fountains,the murmur of pigeons;and wish,as you
will,that all God's Acres held such consolation and joy for the
Behind you rises The Admiral Beatty, the newest and finest of
Saint John's several hotels. In front, stands the building once
called Waverley, formerly headquarters of the Governor when he
visited the city. Beyond, is the Royal—the Mallard of other days
—where the first provincial election was held in 1785, and in which
the first Parliament opened, a year later. In the Mallard, too, was
staged the first dramatic, performance in Saint John.
Trinity Church
In Trinity Church, whose melodious chimes(which are a memorial to the Loyalist founders) mark every quarter hour, the visitor
will find a coat-of-arms taken from the walls of the Boston Council
Chamber by Judge Edward Winslow. The possession of this relic
had been hotly contested, but as it belonged to Boston by virtue
of that city's allegiance to the British Crown, and as this relationship was severed in the American Revolution, the Loyalist emigrants argued that its rightful place was beside the Union Jack,
and so in Trinity Church it hangs. The"01d Stone Church" was
consecrated more than a hundred years ago. Its building material
was imported from England, and distinguished it from the usual
frame structures in Saint John. Here was the Governor's carved
pew, conspicuous with its Royal Arms. In this church also, may be
seen the colors of the 3rd New Brunswick Brigade, Canadian Artillery, founded in 1793, the second oldest artillery militia unit outside the British Isles. A peculiar interest attaches to the Roman
Catholic Cathedral, in that the novelist Israel Zangwill's book,
Page Three TheReversingFalls
of the Saint John
River (seen above,
under the bridge),
form a freakish de'
monstration where
water seems to run
uphill. The Great
War Memorial in
King Square is at
the side.
Cam* John.
"The Master," identifies its hero with Saint John, and puts him
to work in this very building.
"The Reversing Falls" are one of the most vivid memories
you will carrv from the city. Two visits (one at high tide and one
at low) should be made to the 450-foot gorge through which the
river must pass in order to reach the harbor. When the tide is
out, occasioning  a  drop  of some  twenty-six feet,  an  incredible
Page Four
volume of water rushes down, plunging
roaring through the gorge and leaving a
confusion of eddies and whirlpools in its
wake. But six hours later Fundy thrusts
back the advance of the river—thrusts
and pushes and triumphs, squeezing in
between those tortured rocks, and, for a
distance, actually running "uphill!" A
splendid view of this freakish performance
may be obtained from the general traffic
bridge—the longest spandrel steel bridge
in the world.
So much to see
Not much space to mention other
attractions! We've not mentioned Rock-
wood Park, 512 acres in area, with lovely
public gardens adjoining. On Lily Lake, in
this park, the World's Skating Championships were decided in 1926. We've not
touched on Cobbett's Well nor the Mar-
tello Tower; neither have we searched, as
so many others have done, for the resting
place of Governor Villebon. We have not
referred to Benedict Arnold, who lived in
Saint John, and probably found the climate a trifle warm even before his body
was burned in effigy. Then there's the fine
Natural History Museum,housing amongst
other treasures the famous Utopian Medallion, yellowed maps, rare Indian relics and
fascinating models of ancient ships.
The Golf Clubs
A drive either to the Westfield or Riverside Golf Clubs is very
well worth while. En route to the former, a natural tunnel, six
miles long and roofed with trees, will engulf you—a sight you will
never forget. The Riverside Club overlooks the beautiful Kenne-
becasis River, on whose shores Rothesay, a charming summer colony is situated. Fifteen miles along this road from Saint John brings
you to Gondola Point, where hundreds of incipient mermaids
and mermen divert themselves. Far up the narrowing perspective,
where plum-colored shadows heap along the sky, myriads of ducks
hide in the brackish marsh, a lure to sportsmen during the shooting season. Loch Lomond is another favorite objective, taking
you into a district of continuous lakes ten miles in extent.
But the most impressive trip is that up the Saint John River
to New Brunswick's capital, lovely tree-bowered Fredericton,
formerly St. Ann's Point, and the centre of rather heated controversy when Governor Carleton chose it for the Capital. Members of Parliament had to drive over the frozen river to attend
sessions. In 1792 the House gave practical thought to educational
matters, and voted £100 in support of a Provincial Seminary—the
present University of New Brunswick.
Fredericton is a popular base for hunting and fishing expeditions. An ideal way of reducing it is by one of the river boats from
Saint John. Small craft can penetrate even farther, to Grand
Falls. In autumn this latter trip is truly memorable. It presents a
spectacle of scenic grandeur that is almost unrivalled; a pageantry
of nature that no artifice can equal. Many visitors go up by boat
and return by train—or vice versa.
Historic New Brunswick
The history of New Brunswick dates from 1534, when Jacques
Cartier first sighted its shores and landed somewhere near the present site of Chatham.   But colonization was not attempted until nearly a hundred years later, when de Monts, accompanied by
Champlain, established his settlement on an island in the St.
Croix River. The vast territory was then and for many years
later known as Acadia.
United Empire Loyalists
During the forty years following de Monts' unsuccessful enterprise, the outstanding figure in New Brunswick's history was that
of Charles de la Tour, whose wife so bravely defended his fort at
the mouth of the Saint John River during his absence. Then in the
17th century, struggles for supremacy of this country were frequent
between the French and English, "Acadia" being ceded back and
forth by treaty like a shuttle. In 1763 it was definitely ceded to the
British; and by the time that the American Revolution burst upon
the continent, there was a considerable representation of English
settlers to welcome the staunch United Empire Loyalists when
they arrived at Saint John in 1783.
The Napoleonic wars and that of 1812 retarded the progress of
the province, and harassed its shipping. In those days the Saint
John River (named by Champlain because it was on St. John's
day that he first saw it) played an important part as a military
route to Quebec. In 1812, the 104th New Brunswick regiment
marched to Quebec in the depth of winter, on snowshoes. The
distance of 435 miles was accomplished in 16 days, without the
loss of a man! In 1837 this feat was repeated in almost the same
time by the 43rd Light Infantry.
Introducing St. Andrews-by-the-Sea, the most resplendent of
Eastern Canada's summer resorts, is like extolling to an audience
a world-famous person. Historians know it, artists adore it, landscape gardeners dilate on its beauty, golfers and sportsmen delight
in it, and mere luxury-loving pleasure-seekers accept it with long-
drawn sighs of satisfaction. In proportion to its size and population, St. Andrews contains more magnificent homes and attracts
more prominent people than any other resort in Canada. Indeed,
on this continent, there is nothing quite like it, and hundreds of
visitors there are who come from the
United States.
The serene and smiling little town slips
down between the St. Croix River and Passamaquoddy Bay, a stone's throw from the
coast of Maine. It is linked, as the map
shows, with Saint John, Montreal, Portland and Boston by the Canadian Pacific
Railway. At one and the same time, it is
easily accessible and happily remote, the
latter fact partially explaining the exhilarating quality of its incomparable  air.
The Algonquin Hotel
Through somewhat formal driveways,
margined with superb and radiant bloom,
your car swings up to the Algonquin Hotel
—a building the architecture of which will
be appreciated by even the most insensitive person. The red-tiled roof literally
sings in the strong sunshine, and as you
breathe in the tonic-like air, you're conscious that here, at least, is the precise type
of starch required to stiffen your town-
weary backbone. The hotel is, of course, a
fireproof building—concrete and stucco. A
pleasant touch of antiquity is achieved by
the cultivation of creeping vines and
flowers. Nearly every one of its 250 rooms
commands a glorious view of the bay which
washes St. Andrews on three sides. No attempt is made at ostentation, but the furnishing of the Algonquin reflects that taste
and   simplicity   whose   outward   result   is
pleasure to the eye and comfort to the physical frame. If "cosy"
could be applied to proportions of such magnitude then
"cosiness" is the dominant note—not only of the hotel but of the
charming cottages which are operated in connection with it
Flowers in rich profusion form a decorative note no less'inside
than out. The lounge, where French windows frame a glowing
picture of colorful beauty, the music, card and dining rooms flaunt
Fredericton —
beautiful, tree em'
bowered, situated
on the Saint John
River — is J\[ew
Brunswic\(s capital. At the side is
seen its fine Episco-
palian Cathedral.
A map of southern
J\[ew Brunswic\ is
Page Five The Algonquin
Hotel is pictured
above. At the side
are the bathing
houses at Katie's
Cove, where "tout
le monde"' disports
table whose cloth is composed entirely of
fresh-cut ferns, and whose pattern is
woven therein with fresh-cut flowers. The
design is changed daily—also the color
scheme. Surmounting this stand great
platters of blushing lobster, pale and
aristocratic chicken in aspic, sumptuously
browned capons, a bewildering array of
salads wearing their hearts-of-lettuce on
their sleeves. Like children in a sweet
shop, guests crowd about the table,
shamelessly pointing and exclaiming, "I'll
have someof this, and a bit of that, and
you might just let me taste a morsel of the
other, too!"
Particular consideration is given owners
of motors. The garage, a new fire-proof
building, accommodates 200 cars. In fact,
the service is equal to, and on a par with,
the highest standard of perfection that
prevails tiuoughout.
The Casino
Every   afternoon,   and   three   evenings
each week as well, a musicale of high order
is given by an excellent quartette orchestra.     On   alternate   evenings,   a   9-piece
orchestra   produces   in   the   Casino   the
peppiest jazz that restless feet could desire.
On the remaining nights, the Algonquin
management   offers,   also   in   the   Casino
theatre, motion pictures.
1 ennis courts, bowling greens and putting greens are kept in
perfect condition.   Bathing?   Of course!   The repentant ghost of
Katie Mcintosh calls you to her cove, which today is thronged
with amphibians. To obviate tidal variation, a dam has been constructed across the mouth of the cove, and this ensures a safe and
even water level.   Annual aquatic sports are held, and handsome
trophies for successful contestants are ranged in the Algonquin
lobby beside cups for golf and tennis tournaments.
Two Golf Courses
Golf is, perhaps, the most popular diversion, and with reason,
for the two courses—one 18 holes, and one 9—are numbered
amongst the outstanding links in Canada. Feature holes—tricksy
spots—are "Cedar Lane," "Joe's Point" and "the Grove." Watch
'em! The par going out is 36 and everything must break right to
get it. And coming in? Well, you won't forget the 10th, 15th
or 16th holes!
great masses of bloom; the very day itself greets you with flowers
when diminutive maidens curtsey as you leave the elevator for
breakfast and offer fragrant bunches for a silver trifle.
Afternoon tea is one of the most popular institutions sponsored
by the hotel. Served on a beautiful verandah overlooking the
putting and bowling greens, surrounded by hedges of balsam and
sweet peas, and off in the distance Passamaquoddy Bay (which
could mean nothing save "smiling waters") holding up a rolling
line of greenish-blue trees against the horizon—well, this is afternoon tea at the Algonquin!
Said Dr. Johnson, "The man who takes no interest in his
stomach will be interested in nothing else"—a comforting pronouncement for those who do not feel that emphasis upon gastronomic enjoyment is vulgar. Also it removes any hesitation we
might have felt in speaking of the Cold Meat Table. As a
combination of art and utility, it has no equal.   Picture a long
Page Six
The Churches
The churches of St. Andrews tell many an interesting story. The
English Church was the first and for several years the only house
of worship in the town. Then appeared the doughty Captain
Scott, whose hope of salvation lay solely through Presbyterian
pastures green. In a fit of noble rage he swore to complete the
half-finished kirk, sending his ships to the tropics for mahogany
and his men into the woods for maple, and constructing therefrom
a wondrously beautiful pulpit. An immense oak tree carved on the
tower tells all and sundry that Greenock Church was finished in
1862. The Roman Catholic Church is especially notable for the
exquisite altar-rail—Baroness Shaughnessy's memorial to her husband, Lord Shaughnessy, for many vears President of the Canadian Pacific Railway. The carved figure of St. Andrew, standing
outside the church, has a little story; recently a pair of birds built
a  nest in  the good saint's  stone hair,   and  while  this  was  not St ,CXjadjro)vs Ou the Sea,
accepted as a proper use for his luxuriant locks, the tenants were
allowed to remain until their fledglings took the air. Then, the
residence was razed to the scalp.
Magnificent Estates
Summer residents of St. Andrews are amazingly hospitable in
allowing visitors the privilege of viewing their estates. One of the
handsomest lies on Minister's Island (so called because the first
clergyman, the Rev. Andrews, lived there), and is the home of
Lady Van Home. Part of each day the island is joined to the mainland by a narrow strip of shining pebble-encrusted sand; but six
hours later twenty feet of water cover the tracks made by your
motor. The Baroness Shaughnessy and the present Lord Shaughnessy have beautiful homes near the hotel, the former occupying
the site of St. Andrew's Fort. Show places, also, are the homes of
Mrs. Hayter Reed, Mr. Home Russell, the well-known artist,
Mr. Norman Wilson, and Sir Thomas Tait.
Excellent highways and glorious scenery invite you to walk,
ride or motor in every direction. The trip to St. Stephen leads
through a land of enchantment, over pink roads the color of wild
roses, fringed by the turquoise waters of the St. Croix River. Up
this river, three hundred years ago and more,de Monts conducted
his motley assemblage of "gentlemen, artisans and vagabonds "
and, finding at the confluence of Oak Bay and the Waweig River
some resemblance to a Latin cross, gave it this name. On Isle St.
Croix, which can be seen from the road, his hopes of colonization
literally lie buried. For scurvy came hand-in-hand with death
that winter, and thirty-five of the gallant band were left upon the
island when de Monts sailed away to make another and more successful attempt on the shores of Port Royal, in Nova Scotia.
Sunset Over Fundy
The trig yacht "Solace," beneath a sky that is stained with
sunset, threads her way through St. Andrews' thousand islands,
washed by the wine-red sea. Off where the horizon seeks the dusk,
the "Wolves" crouch low—a stretch of hostile reefs that have bitten fatally into the keel of many a sturdy ship. Across the bow, a
flock of baby sea-gulls rests delicately upon the waves like a string
of pale and shadowy pearls; the starboard light of a distant ship
gleams like a low-hung star. As the glory fades from sky and sea,
a mist rolls up from Fundy's deeps. The islands vanish and a void
yawns just below the bow—eerie, pleasurably exciting. Then a
cloudy radiance gilds the fog—the lights of St. Andrews' town.
ww      iifi^l
Above    is    seen
the  beautiful  ]
seaside golf
course  of St.   5
Andrews.      At i
the left—St. Andrews village; at
the right — one
of the   beautiful
gardens in which
this country
Page Seven oot of the owl, or the plunging stride of
The moose, the'largest game animal of
this continent, can hardly be hunted
anywhere else to better advantage. These
animals have increased in numbers until
today there are thousands of them roaming in the woods of the province, where 30
years ago there were but hundreds. Deer
are plentiful and there is a fair chance for
bear. Two methods of moose hunting are
followed—''calling" and "still hunting."
Some of the large rivers of New Brunswick are famed for their salmon fishing,
and so far as this royal sport is concerned
have few superiors in the world. While
the greater part of the salmon waters are
leased by clubs or individuals, in certain
sections some pools are open to the public
on payment of a rod license; and many
of the guides control rights on the waters
to which they take sportsmen.
fe Trout are plentiful, especially in the
lakes and streams back from the settlements. Sea-trout fishing can be obtained
in the Miramichi during the latter part of
May and June.
Canoe Trips
Most of the best fishing is obtained, of
course, on canoeing trips. One may travel
by canoe through the most primitive sections of New Brunswick; there are hundreds of lakes where a quiet week or month
can be profitably spent. The Tobique-
Nepisiguit River trip is considered the
equal of any in North America; that down
the Cains River is another fine one.
Canoeing, of course, connotes camping.
New Brunswick has a large and efficient
corps of registered guides—competent, willing   fellows,   woodsmen   to   the   manner
born. They are practically all white men. Every guide who operates on his own account has exclusive territory on which he has
expended money and labor and equipped comfortable log camps,
? swamped out trails, etc.
|^^ Settlement which has gradually pushed up the valleys from the
river mouths has facilitated the outfitting of sportsmen leaving
for the interior, while the extensive lumbering operations through-
tKKtK^mmtmmm^l^^'    -H out  tne  province   have   resulted   in   wagon   roads   in   many   fine
IPHMH hunting districts that otherwise might not be accessible.
iji I New Brunswick is roughly a square in shape with the Height-of-
2§ T| Land cutting diagonally across.  The principal sporting regions are
the South-West Miramichi, Tobique, Nepisiguit, Salmon River,
Madawaska, Shogomoc, and Magaguadavic. All of these can be
reached  from   McAdam,  Fredericton  or  Saint John,  the  entry
New Brunswick is one of the foremost sporting regions of this ^w^nn Jr!enfCr°nveniently  situated on  railwa>'  lines
r\c •     1*7     -ir jj c\     a     Z\      .. n     -n- radiating from those centres,
continent.   Of its 17 million odd acres of land, at least 9 million c .. .   f
are woodland and good hunting grounds, and, what is even more F.or full information, write General Tourist Agent, Canadian
remarkable, a vast game preserve.   The enactment and enforce- Pacific Railway, Montreal.
ment of wise game laws have resulted in big game in New Bruns- pm P C*T TT"RQ TXT TVTT7M7- DDTT\Tc^?TnT/
wick increasing rather than diminishing in numbers. St   j iTT? BRUNSWICK
Few countries in  the world are so well watered.   The Saint Reached by Canadian Pacific Railway
John River, originating in northern Maine and Quebec, flows a Edmundston 9 holes
distance of 450 miles  before emptying into the Bay of Fundy. Fredericton 9 holes
Besides numerous other large rivers and streams, there are count- St. Andrews two courses, 18 holes and 9 holes
less lakes of unsurpassed beauty, whose eternal stillness is seldom Saint John Riverside   (18  holes) and Westfield (9 holes)
broken except for the leap of the trout, the crack of the rifle, the Woodstock 9 holes
Page Eight The Province of Nova Scotia
is one of the finest natural playgrounds on the continent of
North America. Its historical
background, its unspoiled scenic
loveliness, its peerless summer
climate, the diversity of its
attractions and the comfort and
inexpensiveness of its many
resorts make holidaying there a
delightful experience that will be
eagerly repeated.
The province, lying from three
to six degrees nearer the Equator than the most southerly
point in Great Britain, and often
called the "Atlantic Wharf of
Canada," is connected by an
isthmus with New Brunswick.
It is easily accessible by both
land and sea. From Boston a
steamship service runs to Yarmouth, at the southern extremity, and from Saint John, a
Canadian Pacific steamer crosses
daily (except Sunday) to Digby.
The Dominion Atlantic Railway
serves the beautiful western
coast, running from Yarmouth
through the widely-famed Annapolis Valley, past the historic
land of Evangeline, and then
turning across the province to
A Charming Climate
Throughout this entire territory, the climate is a powerful ally
to diversified interests and scenes. Pleasantly warm days and
refreshingly cool nights make for vigor in play and re-creation
in sleep. The strong tonic quality of wind, salt-laden and tempered by sun, perfumed with balsam, sweet-grass and clover,
induces a physical well-being glorious to experience; germs of
malaria, hay fever and asthma simply cannot survive. One
fishes, hunts, golfs, swims, walks and rests with equal delight.
Quaint Villages
Nova Scotia's shores are counted the most productive lobster
region in the world, and cod, haddock, halibut, swordfish, "horse
mackerel," tuna herring and other toothsome sea-food are taken in
great quantities from her waters. Up on the table-land, sequestered lakes of inky blackness attract moose, caribou and deer,
not to mention smaller game such as hare, ruffed grouse, geese
and ducks.   For trout fishing, these lakes are peerless.
Numbered among the natural resources justly belong a score
of quaint fishing villages, particularly those bordering the Annapolis Valley and Minas Basin. Here the traveller is welcomed with
an old-fashioned hospitality from which commercialism is refreshingly absent. Every effort is put forth to make the visitor feel at
home—and being made with dignity and genuineness, it usually
They Called it "Arcadia"
In 1524 Verrazano, describing his voyage along the American
coast, spoke of a shore "which we baptized Arcadia on account
of the beauty of the trees." This shore was to the south of what
later was called Acadia, but the name became transferred on the
maps to what is now the Canadian Atlantic coast.
French colonization dates from the establishment of Port Royal
in 1605. A tablet marking "Champlain's Habitation" may be seen
opposite Annapolis Royal in Lower Granville. In 1622 James 1
granted   Acadia   to   Sir   William   Alexander,   who felt  that  be-
Above is seen the
]S[ew Pines Hotel
at Digby, which
will open in June
this year—and below, the smart
Canadian Pacific
"Empress" across
the Bay of Fundy
from Saint John.
cause there was a New Spain, New England, and New France,
there should be a New Scotland; hence, "Nova Scotia." It was
not until 1710, however, that the district came permanently
under British rule.
The Saint John-Digby steamer connects with an excellent
through service from Montreal. Arrival at Saint John is made
early in the morning, and an appetizing breakfast is served on
board the "Empress" immediately after sailing.
The Bay of Fundy
Now you are in the Bay of Fundy—"fond de la baie" of the
early French-—a much misunderstood body of water. It has its
calm and gracious moods. Smooth it lies, scarcely breathing,while
vou pick a careful way between brown-sailed boats and a little
j£et of fishermen setting their nets, the floats of which look like
tne vertebrae of ancient sea-beasts riding gently on the deep.
Page Nine The picture above is of Point Prim, the lighthouse near Digby
On the right rises Partridge Island, the quarantine station.
Once past that and the black and shiny porpoises, Fundy glitters
and shimmers far ahead, where the North and South mountain
ranges swerve from the land and try to clasp hands across the sea.
They fail by half a mile, their trappean cliffs forming "Tee-wee-
den " the "Little Hole" of the Micmacs—otherwise Digby Gap,
or locally, Digby Gut, through which Fundy's tides pour their
Page Ten
green and silver floods for forty miles
into the Annapolis Valley. Point Prim
Light sentinels the bare brown rocks on
the right, but you scarce notice it at the
time. Your eyes are held by the white
gleam of the Pines Hotel and the extraordinary expanse of red mud that creeps
out from what should be the shore.
Digby Cherries
The famous Fundy tide being out, you
slip in below the normal level of the dock
and climb to the wharf above. Almost
before you have recovered your breath, a
small boy accosts you. "Cherries, lady?"
Forgotten is your luggage! These great
black, velvetty balls drive everything else
from your mind. Of course, you buy a
box—every one else does—and shamelessly cram cherries into your mouth while
being found by The Pines porter.
What do you know about Digby? On
Lescarbot's map this was marked "The
Country of the Savages;" afterwards
called Conway, it was re-named for Admiral
Digby, who landed four shiploads of
Loyalists on this shore. Many of them
brought frames of their former dwellings.
Some of these still remain—notably, the
old Waverley Hotel, in turn a church, a
dressmaking and tailoring establishment,
lawyer's office and the headquarters of a
The New Pines at Digby
Indisputably the New Pines Hotel at Digby, opening its doors
to the summer traffic of 1929, and replacing the old Pines, is
Nova Scotia's premier summer resort. The hotel, with its surrounding log cabins, occupies the centre of a 16-acre tract of
resinous pine and hardwood, a few minutes drive from the wharf,
and overlooking the fifty square miles of water known as Digby
Basin. High above its roof, at the rear, rises Beeman's Mount, a
hike over which will satisfy the most ardent Alpine climber and
provide him with a view that seems to be bounded by the limits
of the world itself. The location of The New Pines is particularly
interesting, because it was once part of the land granted to
Digby's first clergyman, the Rev. Robert Viets, whose descendants are still numbered amongst the residents of the town.
The Pines is operated by the Dominion Atlantic Railway—
so successfully, indeed, that 75% of its patrons are those who
signed the register at its opening. The New Pines, opening in
June 1929, has been designed to meet the exacting wishes of a
discriminating clientele, and it is what it was intended to be—a
modern hotel with every modern convenience, both in the main
house and bungalow accommodations, swimming pool, etc., all
of which are of exceedingly high order.
Like the leaves of trees, the grass, the pebbles on the beach,
everything at the New Pines will be in keeping with the reputation of its predecessor, as if freshly polished each morning.
The rooms are all outside, many of them en suite with private
baths. Accommodation in the cabins, many of which are newly
built, is eagerly sought. They are constructed with one to three
bedrooms, a living room (and fire place) bath, electric light and
spacious verandah. From nearby farms garden produce, milk
and slowly-moving yellow cream are obtained. Fish, both saltwater and fresh, appear on the menu in abundance.
Lots to do All the Time
The swimming pool, with salt water pumped in every day,
tennis courts, bowling alleys and a billiard room provide part of
the amusement programme.   An excellent nine-hole golf course lies within walking distance of the hotel. It is perched high above
Digby town and offers not only good sport to the golfer but a magnificent view of the Basin and Digby Gap. To the dancing pavilion, The Pines five-piece orchestra repairs four nights a week, and
on Sunday evenings the public is invited for community singing.
Digby is a favorite port of call for many a sturdy ship, and not
infrequently officers' smart uniforms mingle with the delicate
fabric of summer gowns and add to the gaiety of the evening.
Motor-bus and motor-boat trips are made daily to points within
a radius of 35 miles. Those to Bear River, Smith's Cove and Annapolis Royal are especially popular. Point Prim offers a delightful objective for a sail. Your little boat rides at anchor below the
hotel in The Raquette (meaning probably "Indian Shield"). It's
like a very tiny cockleshell in the wide waters of the Basin.
Shoreward, the long nose of the Government Pier thrusts its
length beyond the stubbier docks, where shimmering pyramids of
fish await shipment. Back on the land, "flakes" proclaim that
hundreds of hake, haddock and halibut are drying. Of course,
there are herring, too—the small ones known the world over as
"Digby Chickens" and the large ones as "Yarmouth Bloaters."
Culloden Cove
Back in Culloden Cove, sheltered from the jagged teeth of a
wind-swept promontory, the Bay of Fundy House peeps out—a
pleasant picnic spot where you are served a whole dinner under
the name of afternoon tea, for an insignificant sum that ordinarily
would represent the waitress' tip. And not far away, a cross high
on the shore tells of the wreck of the gallant "Princess Louise,"
whose tow-line broke, leaving her floundering in the toils of a
terrible storm.
Ship ahoy! You flash past a boat whose gloating occupant
holds up to view a fish half his own size. This deep-sea fisherman
has taken advantage of the most thrilling sport that Digby offers.
He cruises about the quiet waters of the
Basin and the rougher reaches of the Bay,
hauling in the slippery line with its weight
of cod or haddock. What excitement! What
terrifying pleasure in the reel of the skiff as
it slides in to the green valley of the sea! And
what delight to race free before a mackerel
breeze in the open, and to land the nimble
beautiesjustly called salt-water aristocrats!
Nor is Digby lacking in attraction for the
fresh water fisherman.
you don't, remember that 12,000 mackerel constitute a catch
when the tide is out and the fisherman's luck is in.
And don't forget to watch for the four stately frigates under
full sail. A sort of weather-vane effect, they stand high above
the road, high and dry, with hulls naked in the heat of the sun
But then, this is the fate of so many ships, when the tide is low.
Smith's Cove offers a wonderful bathing beach on which Indian
relics—arrow heads, flints and so on—may still be found. It is the
largest individual colony in the province, and provides amazing
pleasure and comfort at small expense.
Half of fascinating Bear River, clambering up perpendicular
hillsides and sliding down into serene valleys (it is often called
the Switzerland of Nova Scotia), lies in Annapolis County and
half in Digby County. Not that anybody cares! In cherry
blossom time, it might lie in Japan; and in early autumn, when all
Bear River (seen
below), famous for
cherries, is one of
the most pastorally
beautiful spots even
in a beautiful province. At the side
is a bungalow colony near Smith's
Cove, Digby.
Point Prim
Past the hermit's house, the life-saving
station and the old breast-works, stands
Point Prim Light, a picturesque haven in
the midst of rocky desolation. Point Prim
is not only known to mariners. It is known
to astronomers, for its former keeper,
William Ellis, affectionately called the
Veteran of Point Prim Light, was congratulated by Harvard University as being
the discoverer of the comet that bears his
name. Also he invented a fog whistle,
using for his model the works of an ancient
Smith's Cove
A few minutes' travel on the Dominion
Atlantic takes you from Digby to Imbertville, the railway point for the delightful
log-cabin colony at Smith's Cove. The
way lies through a natural garden, wild
flowers in tropical luxuriance fringing your
path. Out in the Basin fish weirs weave
a tortuous line, and if you are lucky, you
just may see a 60-pound "horse mackerel"
being "seined" from  there.    But even if
-mm*- —-
Page Eleven Lescarbot's map u
responsibilitv for the name on one Louis Hebert, an able apothecary   accompanying   de   Monts'   expedition.     Hebert   gradually
Pave  Twelve
became "Bear." The late Philippe Hebert,
the gifted sculptor of Montreal who
conceived Evangeline's statue at Grand
Pre was a lineal descendant.
An interesting landmark is Bear River's
old hotel—a ghost-grey building from
whose drooping verandah Joe Howe often
harangued the electors. The walls of one
of its rooms are entirely covered with oil
paintings, said to be the work of a remittance man whose anti-prohibition tendencies left him always in the landlord's
debt. Halifax Harbor is shown when Dartmouth was unborn, and when the Union
Jack lacked her last cross—the Irish
emblem of St. Patrick. Over these painted
walls, there had been applied seven coats
of paper!
Bear River
Bear River is famed more than locally
for her annual cherry carnival—a riotously
gay day when the crop is at its zenith and
every tree is equipped with at least one
ladder and one small boy! The nine converging highways are crowded with traffic.
So is the river, on which sports take place,
the contestants including Indians from the
Reservation about a mile distant.
A long step to Halifax, Nova Scotia's
capital  and   largest   city, is   now   recommended.   The most interesting spots can
be   picked   up   on   the   return.    You   are
travelling on the Bluenose—the fast train
of the  Dominion  Atlantic  Railway,  and
everything reminds you of Evangeline—
the  menu,   the  ginger  ale,   the  wrappers
containing soap.   Also, you are reminded
of  the  great  pioneers   who  played   their
heroic role in the dim dawn of the Dominion's early settlement; for each locomotive bears the name of one
such   figure—de Monts,   Poutrincourt,  Membertou, Lescarbot,
Champlain and half a dozen more.
Arrived at Halifax, even the short drive from station to hotel
will impress you with the picturesque harmony of ancient and
modern buildings. The Cornwallis settlers landed here in 1749
and began immediately to erect log houses and build wharves.
The Citadel, the only one of Halifax's many forts open to visitors,
rises 271 feet above the town and overlooks one of the finest
harbors in the world. It also looks down upon the old Clock
Tower, built about 1794 when the Duke of Kent commanded
the Halifax forces. From the Citadel, guns are fired at noon
and half-past nine. Here, too, the time-ball gives its signal to
mariners at sea.
Facing the Public Gardens—a lovely 17-acre tract of park,
sown with hundreds of flowers and little lakes—at the corner of
Spring Garden Road and South Park Street stands the Lord
Nelson, Halifax's newest and best hotel. This massive fireproof
structure of brick and die, granite and grey stone, designed after
the Georgian style which flourished in the period when its great
namesake won renown, was opened in the fall of 1928, and has
quickly become the centre of the social, recreational and business
life of Halifax. It combines all the best traditions of hospitality
of the spacious days of the past with all modern conveniences;
and one particularly interesting feature is the reproduction of
the Georgian and warship atmosphere in furniture and lavout. Ohe&mxi o/,£/uangelMie
The Old and New in Halifax
Amongst the interesting things to see in Halifax are Dalhousie
University, embracing Kings College; the Province Building
(1811), the home of the Assembly and Council, containing some
especially good paintings; and Government House, which was
once considered the finest residence in North America. Then
there are dozens of other public buildings; also the Ocean Terminals, a mammoth scheme embracing upwards of a mile of
waterfront and involving an expenditure of 330,000,000, and
Point Pleasant Park, through which you will have to drive in a
buckboard, motors being forbidden.
In Hosterman's Picnic Grounds, three miles from the harbor,
lies, half buried, the anchor from one of the' colliding ships of the
1917 explosion. St. Paul's Church, a model of Marylebone
Chapel, is the oldest Protestant place of worship in Canada.
Its mural tablets and storied windows epitomize the history of
the city and much of the nation's history as well. Because of the
many    famous    men    buried   in   vaults    beneath    the   church,
St. Paul's has been called the Westminster of America. A wrindow
damaged by the explosion forms a creditable likeness in silhouette
of the Right Reverend Bishop Inglis, the first prelate to preside
over St. Paul's.
The North-West Arm
The Rocking Stone, a freak of nature, lies a few miles out the
Herring Cove road. Herring Cove is famous as the birth-place of
George Brown, the world's best oarsman of a past day. Through a
tree-crowded path, beyond Kidston Farm, you will discover 450
tons of stone teetering on a knife-blade edge of itself, so that the
slightest movement with a stick will set it swaying. And there is
ghost-haunted Melville Island, once used as a British prison and
where for years prisoners were taught to believe that sharks infested the surrounding waters, thus discouraging attempts to
escape. North-west Arm is a fine sheet of clear, green water whose
banks on both sides are lined with club houses and fine estates.
It is the rendezvous of yachtsmen, oarsmen, swimmers—in fact,
all lovers of aquatic sport. From the Dingle, a fine view of the
Arm may be obtained, and, in the distance, of Bedford Basin.
Page Thirteen aUKSttSlMIK
These two pictures
of Grand Pre show
respectively the
Memorial Church,
erected by descendants of the Acadians, and the old
well that local tradition calls "Evangeline's Well."
On Green and Barrington Streets there still stands the house in
which Victor Hugo's daughter languished. She followed a gay-
souled captain to Halifax, only to see him flirt outrageously with
the belles of '64. Then one day he sailed to Bermuda, leaving behind a lady with a very crumpled heart. Nelson's friend, Hardv
was stationed at Halifax; Tom Moore lived here; Dickens
attended an Opening of Parliament with Joseph Howe; and from
Page Fourteen
the time H.R.H. the Duke of Kent, the
father of Queen Victoria, commanded His
Majesty's forces, down to the present day,
distinguished visitors, including many
members of the royal families, have every
year or so intensified the brilliance of life
in this interesting old garrison city.
Fifty-five miles west of Halifax lies
Windsor, one of the terminals of the first
railway of Nova Scotia. Established there
for many years was King's College, the
oldest colonial university in the British
Empire, but within recent years it has
been moved to Halifax. Windsor was the
home of Judge Thomas C. Haliburton—
"Sam Slick," one of this continent's
earliest humorous writers.
Another interesting landmark is Fort
Edward, built when Acadia came under
British rule, to control the entire Minas
Basin. Here plans were matured for the
Acadian Expulsion.
The miracle called Fundy performs in
this   vicinity^ its   most  spectacular   feats,
not  only  rising   to   an   almost  incredible
height, but gathering itself into quite an
impressive "bore."   Most interesting is it
at low tide to watch the vessels sprawling
like     drunken     sea-monsters     over     the
undulating mud flats, then straighten up,
stand erect, and swing out on the Avon's
brick-red waters, as high tide carries them
to sea.   A thriving manufacturing centre is Windsor, and in the
surrounding   country    sheep-raising   is   profitably    carried   on.
The gypsum quarries provide sufficient cargo for fleets of scows,
which  are towed all the way to factories located elsewhere.
Between Avonport and Horton Landing a great black iron
cross marks the spot from which the Acadians embarked on
their sad pilgrimage to lands unknown.
The trip to Grand Pre and Evangeline's Memorial Park is
made most conveniently from Wolfville, a lovely, leafy town
where the dome of Acadia University gleams alabaster white
between the trees, like a bit of the Taj Mahal. The first apple
orchard in King's County was planted here, and is still doing
business. The planter, who was also the first apple shipper, lived
to see the fruits of his labors. Wolfville is a village of cool crisp
lawns, warmed by flowers; it is hemmed by miles of reclaimed
land upon which amazing crops are grown, and towards those
barriers of dykes the tide creeps with jealous and possessive
stealth. Sentinels patrol the dykes in spring, signalling with
fires that look like glowing sparks against the immensity of dark.
The Gaspereau Valley
Out in the meadows curious little wooden tables dot the landscape. On these, marsh hay is piled to dry. It cannot be left on the
ground, for the tide would sweep it out to sea; and much of it must
be cut at night by moon mowers," whose scythes cut rhythmic
silver circles under Nature's pale lamp, when the hay is wet and
submissive to the blade. You must see the Gaspereau Valley,
approached through Deep Hollow Drive, and you must fish in the
Gaspereau River, in whose brackish pools great fat salmon hide.
And by all means, walk to the stile at evening, and trv to count
the farms and orchards that crisscross the sun-drenched hiPs
In that country horses—not cows—wear bells.
Drive to Cape Blomidon pushing its purple bulk far out to sea
and snaring on its purple head any clouds that come its wavs
To do so, you must pass the Look-off, hanging, like Mahomet's Cape Blomidon, near Wolfville
Regatta Time, the K[orth-West Arm, Halifax
Evangeline Beach, near Grand Pre.
Kentville, centre of the Cornwallis Valley
Page Fifteen coffin, mid-way between earth and sky. A good deal of the
Nova Scotian world lies below—four counties, including Minas
Basin, Evangeline's Beach, beautiful Cornwallis Valley, and
three thousand acres of meadowland, an eternal monument to the
patience and industry of the Acadians.
Grand Pre—"The Great Meadow"—was the birthplace of Canada's wartime premier, Sir Robert Borden, and in the graveyard of
the old Covenanter Church many distinguished members of his
family lie in their long sleep. Proceeding down the hillside and
under a Norman arch, you pass into Evangeline's Memorial Park
—into Acadia! Yes, and into Normandy itself! A gentle melancholy enfolds you. Voices are hushed as the guide reviews the
sorrowful story of Longfellow's "Evangeline," the beloved
Acadian heroine who, expelled from her country and separated
from her sweetheart, found him after years of searching only to
surrender him to Death.
The ancient Acadian village, which Colonel Winslow and his
New Englanders depopulated so effectively in that eventful
autumn of 1755, is supposed to have extended in a long, thin line
from about where the Grand Pre station now stands to somewhere
near the next station of Horton Landing. Immediately opposite
the entrance of the Park stands a cross constructed from the
foundation stone of the original church, and marking the graveyard. A few paces beyond is "Evangeline's Well." Nothing
remains of the priest's garden save a row of whispering willows—
trees which throughout the entire country stand as a monument
to the French who planted them.
The Memorial Chapel (St. Charles) is a stone replica of the old
frame building and was built by voluntary subscriptions from
Acadians scattered all over the continent. It contains Acadian
relics and a beautiful copy of Murillo's Madonna in Carrara
The Evangeline Statue
Hebert's remarkable bronze idealization
of Evangeline stands a few feet from the
chapel, and deserves more than passing
mention. Begun by Philippe Hebert,
R.C.A., finished by his son Henri, the
lifeless metal gives an impression of
breathing beauty. More, by means of
ingenious craftsmanship, the sculptors
have presented their heroine from youth
to age, from the placid acceptance of
security to the tragedy of restless exile.
Parrsboro lies at the end of a two-hour
delight (which ordinary people call a sail)
across the Minas Basin. When the tide
has climbed fifty-odd feet up the WolfviUe
wharf, get quickly aboard the "Kipawo,"
whose captain wastes not the fraction of a
second in port. He knows there is many a
glorious mile to travel before a red-brown
wash of sea rushes away from the far
shore, indifferent to the craft (as large as
ocean-going vessels) crying for water high
up on the land.
determined wind that swirls around its stern old crest. You can
almost see the violet quartz or amethyst, still found, despite the
inroads made upon its masses, on the beach. Tradition tells us
that crystal and amethyst from this spot found their way into
the crown of a departed queen.   Why not?
Glooscap, the wonder-working Micmac hero—unfortunately
mythical—lived on Blomidon, and was much annoyed by the
Great Beaver, his tribal enemy, at whom he would occasionally
hurl great chunks of stone. The Five Islands resulted from some
such state of irritability. Farther out to sea, Cape Split rises,
a gaunt obelisk of black against a saffron sky, and near at hand
clusters of summer cottages and swarms of youngsters on the
beach announce vour arrival at Parrsboro.
The picture at the
side is of Acadia
University, Wolfville, in the heart of
the Land of Evangeline; and that below, of the famous
old fort at Annapolis Royal.
Out in the blue, landlocked Basin, you
really see Cape Blomidon—"Blow-me-
down,"   originally,   because   of   the   stiff.
Page Sixteen mi
*s&w<   *     •;-»-
A{)f)Ie B/ossow Time in Evangeline Land
If strange sights interest you, drive past the Ottawa House to
East Bay, whose barren shore is shadowed by immense cliffs, in
the clearly-defined strata of which the romance of the earth is
written. High above the tide, foot-prints in stone testify to the
presence of pre-historic beasts as well as to a vastly different land
formation.   This place is for geologists a veritable paradise.
At Kentville you will be received with delightful hospitality
and wrapped about with exceeding comfort (and very little expense) at the Cornwallis Inn—a Dominion Atlantic Hotel. Here,
too are located the head office of the railway, and a Government
Experimental Farm. Not far from the town a row of ancient stables
tells of coaching days, when Kentville was one of the busiest relav
points on the post-road between Halifax and Yarmouth. Callow's
Hill, plus a little imagination, can conjure up a shudder. On this
spot, a man was hanged for murdering a pedlar—a punishment
that may seem somewhat severe. But in a century there has never
been another hanging, by which you may deduce that the community was taught a lesson. The Ken-wo Golf Links is a smart
nine-hole course whose support is shared by Wolfville; and Grand
Pre, the Gaspereau Valley, Canning, Kingsport, Scot's Bay,
Blomidon, etc., are within easy motoring distance. A delightful
walk takes you to the top of Cape Split, dividing the Bay of
Fundy from Minas Basin.
The lover of history will find keen enjoyment in Annapolis
Royal, the first permanent European settlement, after St. Augustine, Florida, on the continent of North America. At Port Royal,
afterwards Annapolis, close by the site of the present Fort Anne,
de Monts and his associates, including Poutrincourt and Champlain, established their colony. This was in 1605, and for one
hundred and fifty years the little settlement was the scene of part
of the long and bitter struggle between French and English for
possession of the New World. From its founding until when, in
1710, it passed into the hands of the English, its story is an endless
succession of captures, recaptures, and changing masters; and
even for forty years after 1710 it was in an almost continuous
state of seige.   The fort is still in good repair.
Here, Canada's first grist-mill was built, agricultural pioneers
reaped the first harvest of cereals and roots taken from the New
World soil, the first ships were constructed, the first Indian—Chief
Membertou—was converted to Christianity, and the first dramatic performance was staged. Here, too, Champlain instituted his
"Order of Good Cheer," an organization that played no small
part in keeping courage in his men's hearts during those soul-
testing days.
Fort Anne
After the demolition of de Monts' fort, a second one was destroyed. Then the third fortification erected during French occupation—the present Fort Anne at Annapolis Royal—was built. Fort
Anne is a relic of great historical importance not only to Canadians
but to descendants of the early colonists along the Atlantic Coast.
It is a wonderland of priceless curios, including maps, charts*
tablets, war-implements, paintings, books and the great'fortress
key—the last, delivered by the French into BritisTi hands and
carried to Boston, where it lay for many a year before finding its
way home. Also, the Fort contains an exact replica of an Acadian
room. Surrounding the building are twenty-seven acres of ground.
They form one of Canada's National Parks.
Many visitors^ imagine that having seen the Fort they have
absorbed all the interest of the place. But stop at the corner between the old cemetery and the Court House, and examine a
willow stump (once the whipping tree) where manv a man has felt
the lash of discipline on his naked back. Go to Devil's Rock on the
Allain Road; drive to Wishing Rock, once a signal point used by
both French and British, and test its magic. For, having made a
wish at its base, it is only necessary for you to achieve the top
without stumbling to know that your wish will come true. And if
that wish concerns the perennial mirage—Captain Kidd's elusive
treasure—go to Goat's Island, where tradition says it really is
buried!  Only recently another search was made for it.
A Sporting Gateway
Near the Fort stands St. Luke's Anglican Church, containing
a magnificent Book of Common Prayer, bound in red-tooled
morocco and embellished with gold and precious stones It was
the gift of King George IV. The Library of St. Thomas' Roman
Latnolic Church contains the Missal used in the Mass said for
the Acadians just before their expulsion.
Hillsdale House, a charming old residence, has been converted
into a modern summer hotel, where antiques, rare and beautiful
J°™ the furnishing— a Napoleonic sofa, Hancock desk, Duncan
^fyrfe tables, Wedgewood, Staffordshire and pewter—all these
are in every-day use. The register discloses the signature of
England s present King.
Annapolis Royal is the gateway to an unrivalled hunting and
Ashing district—the Milford and Kedgemakooge Lakes region
Both have well-established cabin colonies, and the latter has^also
the comfortable "Kedgie" Rod and Gun Club. A glorious fishing
trip can be made from this district to South Liverpool—one such
having been ably chronicled by Albert Bigelow Paine in "The
lent Dwellers."
A jump to Nova Scotia's southwest corner, through Digby
again, is now suggested. Yarmouth lies 240 statute miles from
United \ 1S USUal starting P°int for tourists from the Eastern
and fr ' lateu' ShL 1S a busy clearinS station for both passengers
u01r:p, g• > ?er wharves hum with activity, and whistles cough
^Y in the strong salt air that rarely rises above 80 degrees
Page Seventeen Above is pictured
Yarmouth, at the
extreme southern
end ofT^pva Scotia,
whence a steamer
service runs to Boston. At the side—
an old ox - cart
along the "French
Bold are her sailors, wide the seas, and out of the sunset gateway
many of her sons have passed never to return. Others, however,
came home to build enormous houses, topped with cupolas,
from which they could still command a vision of slender masts
and canvas crusted with the sun's rich gold.
Hedges rise eighteen feet high, gardens blazing behind them.
Drives radiate in every direction—to the Tusket Archipelago,
where there's an island for every day in the year; to the Tusket
Lakes and River, which of all rivers on the North American Continent is first visited by salmon in the spring; past Milton Ponds to
I ake George; across stone-fenced farmlands to Port Maitland;
alono- the Bay Shore, where Champlain's "little river surrounded
by meadows" finds a companion in the waters of the Chegoggin;
down to Markland—and if you travel there remember all the
while  that  Norse  explorers  visited  Yarmouth  centuries  before
Page Eighteen
Columbus wheedled Queen Isabella out of
her Crown jewels. The Runic Stone,
housed in the Library, says so!
From Yarmouth, take your ticket to
Little Brook, which consists of a small
station, a sobbing motor, and the postman's ancient democrat. The latter bears
you groggily past sweet-smelling fields,
where women stand high in ox-drawn lay-
carts, to the edge of St. Mary's Bay, into
which all the indigo of the world must have
been poured last wash-day. Over yonder,
Digby Neck, a green fence, shuts off the
The French Shore
Following the shore in an unbroken line,
a succession of French villages joins hands.
Their inhabitants are descended from the
exiled Acadians who, after years of
banishment in the south, were permitted
to return to Canada. They settled here, in
County Clare. Comeauville is perhaps the
most interesting village. Its "hotel" (God
bless the naivete) is 135 years old. Its
management has never strayed outside
the family of the original grantees, and
save for a coat of paint it has never been
insulted by a rejuvenating touch. The
furnishing is quaintly simple, including
George Ill's deed for land, the yearly
rental of which was one farthing per year!
You mark your stay by autographing a
common clothes-pin and mounting it upon
a wire frame obviously designed to uphold
a flock of photographs! The stove,
remembered in connection with the most delectable steamed
clams, is sixty years old; the brick oven claims a life nearly three
times as long, and guests may, if they desire, sleep in engulfing
feather beds.
Returned Exiles
If you are bored by doing nothing in particular—sitting in a
boat while a gnarled Acadian sets his nets, helping (?) mow the
fragrant hay, or watching the unerring shuttle thrown by an
ancient at an old hand-loom—don't on any account stop at Comeauville. Probably you won't even enjoy the procession on Acadian
Day, August 15th, when the entire district marches to Mass at
Church Point. Nor will you quiver with ecstasy at the sunset,
when a flaming mass of splendor dips down behind Digby Neck
with an actual sizzle and leaves the sky and Bay a perfectly
impossible magenta. You won't even appreciate the long
luminous nights when your slumber is soothed by the song of the
restless sea.
You won't think it funny that everyone who can muster a few
faltering English words cries to the heedless oxen, "Op-pa-law"
(hop along—and to oxen, mark you!) or demands with cordial
interest, "Is it hot in Boston?" Patently, everywhere that is not
Comeauville is Boston. No, if you don't like this sort of thing,
stay right on the train until you get to Weymouth.
Weymouth is a place utterly lacking in marshlands and
mosquitoes. On the outskirts of the town there is a splendid
Boys' Camp, "Aldercliff," supervised by men from one of the
leading U.S. universities. Also, there is Bay View Farm, an ideal
summer resort in an ideal location. The town supports a theatre
that might well be envied by places treble its size, and visitors are
always interested in the English Church and its memorial to
James Moody, a British soldier, who escaped from Washington's
army and settled here, where his descendants still reside. Weymouth is a convenient starting-point to the Tusket waters
and the moose-inhabited region that these rivers drain. One hunting party in 1926 saw eleven forest emperors during a 17-day trip.
The Sissiboo, a curving topaz ribbon, marches up and down
the shores of Weymouth, breathing rhythmically to the measure
of Fundy's tide. A trip to the dam by moonlight gives you an
evening of unforgettable enchantment. Pure silver sheathes the
waters and gathers in shining clusters in the trees, and there is a
Cinderella-feeling about reaching home before the clock strikes
twelve and the river runs out to see what the Bay is doing, leaving
you and morning together in the mud.
Nova Scotia is one of the last remaining of the unspoiled first-
class sporting countries. Her woods are still a real wilderness;
in the depths of those woods are literally thousands of lakes and
rivers wonderfully adapted to the glorious sport of canoe cruising,
combined with fishing. The air laden with the fragrance of evergreens, the exercise with paddle and rod, the fascination of hooking, playing and netting a jewelled "whopper," the intimate
acquaintance with nature and her wild creatures, the joys of life in
rustic cabin or log camp—there is no other vacation like it!
Nova Scotia's inland waters are primarily trout waters, and
nowhere else on the continent are better or sportier speckled beauties found. But bass, salmon and lake trout are also widely distributed. Exciting sport is to be obtained at most of the coast-
resorts in the way of salt water fishing, especially trolling or flyfishing for pollock. For the hunter, Nova Scotia affords some
very fine opportunities of meeting the king of all forest animals,
the moose, which is found in comparatively large numbers on the
long hump of the southern peninsula. Deer and bear are also
found, and there is good bird shooting.
Nova Scotia sporting camps and sporting hotels are well and favorably known,
comfortably furnished, well appointed,
with good cooking and fairly moderate
charges. A plentiful supply of guides, both
Indian and white, all good woodsmen and
cooks, is available.
Some Famous Resorts
When all the riches that the province
offers the sportsmen, it might perhaps be
invidious to select any particular points.
However, there are several very well-
known sporting regions served by the
Dominion Atlantic Railway. Annapolis
Royal is the gateway to a number of such
regions. These include South Milford,
Kedgemakooge, Lake Rossignol, Lake
Munro and the Maitland River. These,
although widely separated, are really one
and the same thing, for the Liverpool
River links them all together in a maze of
canoe trips, and leads their waters to the
Atlantic Ocean, on the eastern coast. From
them, one can work into other river systems and come out in the Bay of Fundy, or
into the Tusket River and come out at
The Milford House at South Milford (15
miles from Annapolis Royal), Minard's
Camp at Kedgemakooge, the Kedgemakooge Rod and Gun Club (36 miles) and
Moore's Camp on Lake Rossignol(10 miles
beyond Kedgemakooge) are favorite
In other parts of the province, the camps on Stillwater Lake
(Stillwater station), Merry's Camps at Albany Cross (15 miles
from Middleton station), and the Musquodoboits, in Halifax
County, are all highly recommended.
Full information regarding fishing and hunting in Nova Scotia
can be obtained from the Passenger Department, Dominion Atlantic Railway, 117 Hollis Street, Halifax, N.S., or 12 Milk
Street, Boston, Mass., or from the General Tourist Agent,
Canadian Pacific Railway, Montreal.
At the side is Weymouth, a charming
little resort between
Tarmouth and
Digby. Below is a
scene in the Tus\et
River country-
one of the wonderful fishing and
hunting regions of
]s[ova Scotia.
'■','■ ."'p
Page Nineteen Above is St. John's,
capital of the island
Dominion of Newfoundland- reached
by steamer from
either Halifax,
]s[orth Sydney or
Montreal. At the
side is a picture in
the beautiful Bras
d'Or La\es ofJ\[ova
Reached by Dominion Atlantic Railway
Annapolis Royal 9 holes
Bedford (near Halifax) 9 holes
Dartmouth (near Halifax), Brightwood 18 holes
Digby 9 holes
Halifax (Ashburn) 18 holes
Halifax (Gorsebrook, public course) 9 no]es
Kentville 9 holes
Truro 9 holes
Windsor 9 holes
Yarmouth 9 holes
Page Twenty
Cape Breton Island
Halifax is the end of the Dominion Atlantic Railway; but we can continue our
journey from here by the lines of the Canadian National Railways. One very beautiful region reached from Halifax is Cape
Breton Island, at the extreme north-east
of the province. This is really a group of
islands, with so much ocean about them
that their virtues as summer resorts are
unique. The Bras d'Or cuts the group in
two. For about fifty miles its waters are
sheltered from the ocean of which it forms
a part, and in this length it expands into
bays, inlets and romantic havens, with
islands, peninsulas and broken lines of
coast—all combining to form a scene of
rare beauty.
The Bras d'Or waters have a surface
area of 450 square miles, and while the
width is as much as eighteen miles in one
place, there are times when less than a mile
separates shore from shore. Whycocomagh,
Baddeck and Great Narrows are three of
the most popular resorts for summer bathing, sailing and fishing. The Margaree
River, famed for its salmon and trout
fishing, flows through one of the most
beautiful valleys in all Nova Scotia.
Sydney, an important industrial centre
in Cape Breton, has a magnificent harbor,
which has an irresistible attraction for yachts, motor boats and
canoes.   Louisburg, with its old fortress ruins, is forty miles away
by the Sydney & Louisburg Railway.
Newfoundland, although not a part of Canada, but a separate
British country, bears a certain affinity to the Maritime Provinces
because it so closely adjoins Nova Scotia. Its situation at the
mouth of the St. Lawrence Gulf makes it also, in a sense, the.
guardian of Canada. The island, resembling in shape a huge
triangle, has for many years been known as one of the finest
sporting regions of this continent; and its wonderful salmon and
trout fishing—to say nothing of its deep-sea fishing for cod—
continues to attract every year a large number of sportsmen from
all parts of the world.
Not only that: Newfoundland's landscapes, its rugged 4,000
mile coast line, its frowning cliffs, beautiful fjords, lakes, deep
forests and moors make up a magnificent background for a vacation. It has a salubrious climate where hay fever is unknown. The
country is so different in most of its characteristics from either
Canada or the United States, both physically and in human development, that visiting Newfoundland is almost like visiting a different continent. Its salmon fishing has, too, the advantage of
cheapness, the license fee for non-residents being only ^10.00.
Newfoundland can be reached from North Sydney, N.S. whence
a ferry service runs regularly to Port-aux-Basques. From the latter
point the Newfoundland Railway runs through approximately the
middle of the entire Island to St. John's, the capital, which, situated on a splendid harbor, looks straight out across the Atlantic to
Ireland. Another route is by steamer from Montreal or Quebec
down the St. Lawrence River to the Gaspe Peninsula and thence
across to Cornerbrook, Nfld. Cornerbrook, a newly developed
paper-making city on the picturesque Humber River, is on the
main line of the railway, which can be joined here. At St John's
is now a fine new hotel built with the requirements of the tourist
business well in mind. There are also steamer services from
Halifax and Boston. ttEBSQgS^i
The first part of the route to the White
Mountains,the Maine Coast, and the cities
of Portland and Boston is over the Saint
John line, until, just beyond Farnham, 49
miles from Montreal, we diverge to the
southeast, passing the prettily situated
town of Newport, at the southern end of
Lake Memphremagog. From St. Johns-
bury the Maine Central Railroad runs to
Portland, while from Wells River the Boston & Maine R.R. proceeds to the "Hub
The White Mountains comprise 400
square miles of mountain peaks, of which
there are fifteen rising to over 4,000 feet
in height. Mount Washington, well known
for the interest attaching to its ascent
(either on foot or by the unusual cog-
railway which rises above the clouds) and
for the wonderful view to be enjoyed from
its summit, is 6,293 feet high. On a clear
day one may see as far as the Atlantic
Ocean. Included in the foothills are two
million acres of forest, in which a National
Forest Reserve, with headquarters at
Gorham, has been created.
Bretton Woods
Fabyans is the central point for White
Mountain travel. The famous Fabyan
House, with many historic associations, is
the starting point for the summit of Mount
Washington. An attraction almost rivalling the mountain itself
is the superb Mount Washington Hotel, nestling amid the hills
at Bretton Woods, half a mile from Fabyans. This two-million
dollar hotel is the recognized centre, geographically as well as
socially, of the White Mountains, for from here a network of railways and motor roads unwinds itself in all directions. Golf, tennis,
swimming, bowling, walks, drives and horseback riding afford
entertainment for guests.
Eastward from Fabyans a branch line carries the visitor to Twin
Mountain and Bethlehem Station, where connections by automobile for Maplewood and Bethlehem are made. Maplewood has a
fine 18-hole golf course and is a favorite social centre. Bethlehem,
on the highest plateau east of the Rockies, has a country club and
an 18-hole golf course, tennis courts, and over thirty hotels. At
Bethlehem Station a stage and motor coach also connect for the
trip through the beautiful Franconia Notch to North Woodstock,
where is located the Lost River reservation. In the Notch is perhaps the chief wonder of the New Hampshire mountains, the "Old
Man of the Mountains," or Great Stone Face. At Franconia
Notch the peaks of the Franconia Range are less lofty, but
excel in the Alpine character of their sharp and slender spires.
A branch from Bethlehem Station follows the Ammonoosuc
River to Littleton, Sugar Hill, and Lisbon.
Northwesterly from Fabyans the Maine Central Railroad runs
to Lancaster, North Stratford and Colebrook, connecting at
Waumbek Junction for Cherry Mountain (where automobile connection is made for Jefferson), Randolph, Gorham, Shelburne and
Berlin. At Coos Junction connection is made for Groveton.
Reached by stage from Colebrook is Dixville Notch, where the
Balsams affords accommodation for a large number of guests
and has a magnificent golf course.
North Conway
The journey to Portland is resumed from Fabyans through
the Crawford Notch. For fifteen miles the line penetrates a rugged
defile between high mountains, their sides heavily wooded, with
the rushing Saco River far beneath.   Passing Bartlett, the region
Mount Washington and its celebrated hotel-—one
of the finest inland
summering places
of J\[ew England—
are seen above;
while at the side
is the cog - wheel
railway to the summit of the pea\.
^Z *% thuC ?N°rth ConwaY Country" is reached, the chief
centres of which are North Conway, Intervale, Kearsage, Glen
nnmK ?'■ rom these PoInts> the yearly rendezvous of large
Ik k V1S1,t0rs' magnificent views of the Presidential Range
can be obtained.
LiketWnn Fkr>^burg and Portland are Sebago Lake and Long
Harmnn k l latte? are the thriving towns of Bridgton and
RrirW    t^        P^ular places of summer sojourn reached from
of HndT i nJCtlC?n' SebaS° Lake> one of the four original homes
°   land-locked salmon, is a favorite spot of fishermen.
Page Twenty-One How to reach the
White Mountains
and the Maine
Coast from Montreal is illustrated
in the map above.
At the side is a
sporting camp in
the Maine Woods.
the v,
The Rangeley Lakes lie in a northerly
direction from Portland and are reached
via Rumford and Bemis over the Maine
Central Railroad. The Rangeley section
embraces a vast diversified territory,
broken by lakes, ponds, rivers, streams
and mountains, criss-crossed by trails and
lumber roads, and dotted with comfortable
hotels where either fisherman or hunter
may secure excellent accommodations.
The Belgrade section in Kennebec
County, in a more easterly direction, is a
remarkable chain of lakes that abounds
in trout and bass and has gained fame
for its charm of scenery. The bass fishing
in Great and Long Ponds is unsurpassed,
and several world records have been made
in them. Not far from Belgrade are Lake
Maranacook and Lake Cobbosseecontee.
The former, at the head of which is the
delightful town of Readfield, affords good
hotel and camp accommodations and excellent fishing.
The Maine Coast
The coast of Maine—with which, for
convenience, may be included the shorter
coasts of New Hampshire and Massachusetts—forms a summer playground of
exceedingly great attraction to thousands
of visitors. The coast line, with its inlets,
coves, harbors and bay shelters, is extraordinarily irregular; and in this setting
high cliffs, rock-bound promontories,
sandy beaches, pine forests, charming
estates, islands that stand up solitarily or
run in long fringes between the shore and
the open ocean, and farms that extend to
ater's edge, make a delightful combination of inland and
life, with splendid hotels, villas, camps and summer homes
t everywhere.
Poland Spring is reached by stage from Danville Junction.
This famous resort is known equally for its wonderful mineral
water and the Poland Spring House, one of America's best inland
summer hotels.
The woods of Maine, reached by rail from Portland, are so well
known as to need no introduction. Hardly another tract of country
of the same extent on this continent is so well watered. The state
has over five thousand streams and over fifteen hundred lakes and
ponds. Among the most notable are Moosehead Lake, the Rangeley
Lakes, Grand Lake Chain, Sebago Lake and the Belgrade Lakes.
Page Twenty-Two
Portland, the "Forest City," is the gateway to the Maine Coast.
Lying at the head of Casco Bay, it is itself one of the finest summer
cities on the Atlantic Coast. It has many excellent hotels, and
from it excursions can be made in every direction by steamer,
train, trolley or automobile. Casco Bay contains over three hundred islands, some with wild and rocky shores, others with sandy
beaches. Amongst the points that can easily be reached by
steamer from Portland are Peak's Island, the Diamonds (Little
and Great), Cushing's Island, Long Island, Cliff Island, Hope
Island, Great Chebeague (the largest in the bay), Bailey's, Orr's,
Cousin's, Littlejohn's and Bustin's Islands. The island shores of
Casco Bay are also popular places for summer sojourn.
Boothbay Harbor Region
Beyond Casco Bay is the Boothbay Harbor region, where numerous other pleasant resorts invite the vacationist. Leaving Portland by the Maine Central Railroad, an hour's ride brings one to
Brunswick, seat of Bowdoin College. A few miles farther is Bath,
near the mouth of the Kennebec River. From here, and from
Wiscasset, New Castle, Damariscotta, and Thomaston, steamers
ply to various points and islands around the bay. These comprise
Boothbay Harbor—a favorite gathering point for yachtmen—
Christmas Cove, Popham Beach—which has splendid surf bathing— Pemaquid, Southport, Squirrel Island, Monhegan Island,
and other popular places. Monhegan is a beautiful island, rising
from the water ten miles at sea, and is reached by steamer from
Thomaston and Boothbay Harbor. Seven miles from Boothbay Harbor is Newagen, on beautiful
Southport Island. Here hot sea water baths are featured. At
the end of this railway line is Rockland, situated on the island-
dotted bay formed by the mouth of the great Penobscot River.
Rockland is the centre for many excursions. Two miles north is
Rockland Breakwater, extending into the bay for more than a
mile. Here, facing the bay, stands one of the finest hotels on the
Atlantic seaboard, the SamOset, operated by The SamOset Company, a subsidiary of the Maine Central Railroad. From Rockland many pleasant steamer trips can be made, such as to the
historic old town of Castine, Dark Harbor, Deer Isle, Vinalhaven,
North Haven, Stonington, Isle au Haut, and Blue Hill.
Bar Harbor
Bar Harbor, reached by a short steamer journey from Mount
Desert Ferry, on the Maine Central, is located on Mount Desert
Island, on which the mountains literally come down to the sea.
Bar Harbor is one of the widest known and most popular summer
places on this coast, and has some very beautiful residences and
many fine hotels. Its charming setting, its luxuriant foliage, its
bay, its many fine drives diversified scenery and the many
recreations that can be enjoyed—sailing, bathing, motoring,
golf, tennis and fishing—give it a distinction that is peculiarly
its own. Mount Desert Island, which has an ancestry reaching
back to the French explorers of the early seventeenth century^
has the only national park in the United States east of the Mississippi River—the Lafayette National Park, ten thousand acres in
extent,comprising magnificent vistas of mountains,lakes, streams,
sea-coast, and forest.
The island has other resorts, Seal Harbor, Northeast Harbor,
Southwest Harbor, and Manset. Bar Harbor can also be reached
by steamship from Rockland. Eastward from Bar Harbor, along
the shores of Washington County, are a number of more secluded
resorts that have their appeal especially to fishermen and hunters.
Old Orchard Beach
Between Portland and Boston, along the line of the Boston
and Maine Railroad, the shore-line is one long succession of attractive and popular summer resorts. Twelve miles south of
Portland is one of the most famous bathing beaches of America
—Old Orchard. With its wonderful stretch of hard packed sand,
Old Orchard is the rallying point every summer of thousands who
enjoy sea-bathing, the surf, and the cooling breezes of the ocean,
especially appealing to eastern Canadians. Other popular beaches
in this locality are Scarboro Beach, Prout's Neck, Higgins Beach,
Pine Point, Wells Beach, Ogunquit and Kennebunkport. Kennebunkport, which is reached by motor from the picturesque old
village of Kennebunk, has been fittingly described as a region
where ocean and country meet, where all the attractions that
Nature can provide blend into a perfect whole.
York Beach and York Harbor, reached by a motor coach line
from Portsmouth (about halfway between Portland and Boston),
are resorts that have splendid bathing facilities and have become
exceedingly popular. Between here and Cape Ann, the southern
point of the Gulf of Maine, are found Little Boar's Head, Rye,
Salisbury, Ipswich and Hampton, all well-known summering
places. From Cape Ann to Boston the railway skirts the beautiful
North Shore of Massachusetts Bay, along which are found
numerous resorts with a great variety of appeal.
New England
It is said no one ever returns disappointed from a vacation in
New England. Picturesque and hospitable, New England is a
historic vacationland of almost unending delights. Its centre is
Boston. Above the city lies the beautiful rugged North Shore;
below there stretches away the smooth reaches of the South Shore.
A short distance from Boston are the silver sands of Nantucket
and Cape Cod. The traveller, by an easy journey inland, comes
to the lovely Berkshire Hills of Massachusetts and the fertile
Connecticut Valley.
New England and all its centres are within quick travel from
Montreal. Canadian Pacific trains run through to Boston, joining
at Wells River the line of the Boston & Maine R.R.
Charming, quaint and dignified is Boston, the capital of Massachusetts and the principal city of New England. It is often called
the smallest large city in America. You will understand why when
you see how serenely and undisturbed Boston lives in the midst of
its great industrial and business activity. A modern city, one of the
most populous and thriving on the North American continent,
Boston never allows visitors to forget its proud and historic past.
Appropriately called the "Athens of America" from its careful
fostering of the arts, Boston has within its confines perhaps a
greater variety of places interesting to the tourist than any other
city in the world. To many Beacon Hill is the most notable landmark in the city. Atop it is the State House, with its gilded dome
and the world-famous Sacred Cod of Massachusetts. The oldest
public park in America, Boston Common, slopes down from the
Capitol towards the business district. Literary, artistic, and
historic associations cling fondly to the old streets of Beacon Hill.
John Hancock of the celebrated signature once lived in great
magnificence on Beacon Hill as first constitutional governor of
Two well\nown beaches
are here seen — Rye,
J^.H. (at the left) and
Old Orchard, Maine.
Page Twenty-Three p'
/* J
The famous State
House at Boston,
fronting on Boston
Common, is seen
above. At the side
is the "Minute
Man" statue*- at
Concord, Massachusetts.
Bunker'Hill Monument, topping the sky-line of the city with
the Customs House Tower, stands as a vivid yet sober reminder
of the Battle of Bunker Hill in that long ago war which made the
United States a cousin of Canada instead of a full brother. On
both sides of Bunker Hill extend the shores of Massachusetts Bay.
Faneuil Hall, venerable "Cradle of Liberty," is a never failing attraction to visitors. Just a step or two from it stands old North
Church, from which the signal showed that sent Paul Revere away
on his famous Midnight Ride. In the Boston Navy Yard "Old Ironsides" swings quietly at anchor, as if dreaming of her eventful past.
Boston's keen yet dignified interest in present-day arts is most
evident in Symphony Hall, the home of the brilliant Boston Symphony Orchestra; the majestic Public Library, one of the archi-
Page Twenty-Four
tectural splendors of America; the Boston
Opera House; and the Museum of Fine
Arts, where the visitor finds representative examples of every phase of art. In
Boston, also, is the Mother Church of
the Christian Science Faith.
Across the Charles River in old and
stately Cambridge was the original settlement which later grew into Boston. The
winding Boston streets are an evolution
from the old cow paths of Shawmut; and
the "Yard" of the world-famous Harvard
College was once the cow yard of the little
hamlet of years ago. Cambridge is Boston
in spirit yet, but in addition it possesses a
beautiful and well-defined individuality of
its own. The broad cultural and scientific
life of Cambridge centres around Harvard
and the great Massachusetts Institute of
Technology on the bank of the Charles.
Bronze  statues of the Minute   Man  of
Revolutionary days stand today in  both
Lexington and Concord, silently yet eloquently commemorating the heroic deeds
enacted  here in  those  long  ago  eventful
times.   In Concord, too, is the "Old Manse," made known the
world over in Nathaniel Hawthorne's pages.   It still stands beside
the scene of the fateful events of that April morning of 1775. Close
by the dreaming river is a nook consecrated to the memory of the
British soldiers who fell in the engagement here.   The Concord
School of Philosophy was at Concord, and the homes of Hawthorne, Ralph Waldo Emerson and Louisa M. Alcott are famous
landmarks attracting countless visitors to the quiet old town. The
graves of these authors are to be seen in Sleepy Hollow cemetery.
A few miles distant from Concord is Lexington Green, with
its many memorials of the opening skirmish of the Revolution.
The road from Concord is thickly planted with tablets marking
the scenes of deeds of immortal heroism. These lovely historic
towns are both on the Boston & Maine R.R. within an hour's journey from Boston. The trip to them can include a visit to the Wayside Inn,immortalized by Longfellow, and bought oflate by Henry
Ford for preservation as a historic heirloom of early American
Built ramblingly along the rocky ledges of the North Shore is
old Marblehead, an international yachting rendezvous. Many
of its early colonial houses are still in use, with their old-fashioned
flower gardens, and with the curious "landscape" wall-paper still
on the walls as it was a century or more ago. Marblehead affords
entrancing views of open ocean and rolling surf.
It is three hundred years since Salem was first settled. Today
the city is a place of enthralling museums and stately old mansions. Its traditions are many and varied. Salem was the scene of
the witchcraft trials of the i7th century, and it still clings fast
to its memories of the days when, ranking first among American
seaports, it sent its smooth-lined clippers scudding across the
seas to the Indies West and East.
Cape Ann's quaint charm is the charm of its principal community, old Gloucester. Gloucester's appeal lies alike in its Cape
Ann environment and in being the centre of the fishing industry
of the eastern United States. From Magnolia near by can be seen
Norman's Woe, the reef that plays so tragic a role in Longfellow's "The Wreck of the Hesperus." ■,„..: " ~'-p\ ...... . I
Canadian Pacific
Atlantic Coast Resorts
Atlanta Ga.—K. A. Cook, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept 1017 Healey Bldg.
Banff Alta.—J. A. McDonald, District Passenger Agent C.P.R. Station
Boston Mass.—L. R. Hart, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept 405 Boylston St.
Buffalo N.Y.—W. P. Wass, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept 160 Pearl St.
Calgary Alta.—G. D. Brophy, District Passenger Agent C.P.R. Station
Chicago 111.—T. J. Wall, Gen. Agt. Rail Traffic 71 East Jackson Blvd.
Cincinnati Ohio—M. E. Malone, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept 201 Dixie Terminal Bldg.
Cleveland Ohio—G. H. Griffin, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept 1010 Chester Ave.
Dallas   Texas—A. Y. Chancellor, Travelling Pass. Agent 917 Kirby Bldg.
Detroit   Mich.—G. G. McKay, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept 1231 Washington Blvd.
Edmonton Alta.—C. S. Fyfe, City Passenger Agent C.P.R. Building
Fort William Ont,—H. J. Skynner, City Passenger Agent 108 South May St.
Guelph Ont.—W. C. Tully, City Passenger Agent 30 Wyndham St.
Hahfax N.S.—A. C. McDonald, City Passenger Agent 117 Hollis St.
Hamilton     Ont.—A. Craig, City Passenger Agent Cor. King and James Sts.
Honolulu T.H.—Theo. H. Davies & Co.
Juneau Alaska—W. L. Coates, Agent.
Kansas City Mo.—R- G. Norris, City Pass. Agent 723 Walnut St.
Ketchikan Alaska—E. Anderson, Agent.
Kingston Ont.—J- H. Welch, City Passenger Agent 180 Wellington St.
London. ..... . . . . .Ont.—H. J. McCallum, City Passenger Agent 417 Richmond St.
Los Angeles. ..... .Cal.—w- Mcllroy, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept 621 So. Grand Ave.
Milwaukee........ Wis.—F- T. Sansom, City Passenger Agent 68 East Wisconsin Ave.
Minneapolis. ..     Minn.—H- M- Tait, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept 611 2nd Ave. South
Memphis. .... . . . Tenn.—E. A. Humler   Travelling Pass. Agent Porter Bldg.
(P. E. Gingras, District Pass. Agent Windsor Station
Montreal Que.—[p. c. Lydon, Gen  Agent Pass. Dept 201 St. James St. West
Moosejaw Sask.—T. J. Colton, Ticket Agent Canadian Pacific Station
Nelson           B.C J- s- Carter, District Pass. Agent    Baker and Ward Sts.
New York N.Y.' F. R. Perry, Gen. Agt. Rail Traffic Madison Ave. at 44th St.
North Bay Ont. C. H. White, District Pass. Agt 87 Main Street West
Ottawa Ont. J- A. McGill, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept 83 Sparks St.
Peterboro Ont. J- Skinner, City Passenger Agent George St.
Philadelphia Pa.—J- C. Patteson, Gen. Agent Pass. Dept 1500 Locust St.
Pittsburgh pa.—C. L. Williams, Gen. Agent  Pass. Dept 338 Sixth Ave.
Portland Ore,—W. H. Deacon, Gen. Agent Pass. Dept 55 Third St.
Prince Rupert B.C.—W. C. Orchard, General Agent.
Quebec Que.—C. A. Langevin, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept Palais Station
Regina Sask.—J. W. Dawson, District Pass. Agt Canadian Pacific Station
Saint John N.B.—G. E. Carter, District Pass. Agent 40 King St.
St. Louis Mo.—Geo. P. Carbrey, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept 412 Locust St.
St. Paul Minn.—W. H. Lennon.Gen.Agt.Pass.Dept.Soo Line Robert and Fourth St.
San Francisco Cal.—F. L. Nason, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept 675 Market St.
Saskatoon Sask.—R. T. Wilson, City Pass. Agent 115 Second Ave.
Sault Ste. Marie.. .Ont.—J. O. Johnston, City Pass. Agent .529 Queen St.
Seattle Wash.—E. L. Sheehan, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept 1320 Fourth Ave.
Sherbrooke Que.—J. A. Metivier, City Pass. Agt 91 Wellington St. No.
Skagway Alaska—L. H. Johnston, Agent.
Spokane Wash.—E. L. Cardie, Traffic Mgr. Spokane International Ry.
Tacoma Wash.—D. C. O'Keefe, City Passenger Agent 1113 Pacific Ave.
(Wm. Fulton, Asst. Gen'l Pass. Agent Canadian Pacific Bldg.
Toronto Ont.—{ H. R. Mathewson, Gen'l Agt. Pass. Dept. . . . Canadian Pacific Bldg.
[G. B. Burpee, District Pass. Agent Canadian Pacific Bldg.
Vancouver B.C.—F. H. Daly, District Passenger Agent 434 Hastings St. W.
Victoria B.C.—L. D. Chetham,   District Passenger Agent. . . . 1102 Government St.
Washington D.C.—C. E. Phelps, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept 905 Fifteenth St. N.W.
Windsor Ont.—W. C. Elmer, City Passenger Agent .34 Sandwich St. West
Winnipeg Man.—C. B. Andrews, Dist. Passenger Agent Main and Portage
Antwerp Belgium—A. Schmitz ' 25 Quai Jordaens
Belfast Ireland—Wm. McCalla 41-43 Victoria St.
Birmingham Eng.—W. T. Treadaway 4 Victoria Square
Bristol Eng.—A. S. Ray 18 St. Augustine's Parade
Brussels Belgium—G. L. M. Servais 98 Blvd. Adolphe-Max
Glasgow Scotland—W. Stewart 25 Bothwell St.
Hamburg Germany—T. H. Gardner Gansemarkt 3
Liverpool Eng.—H. T. Penny Pier Head
T       . _. /C. E. Jenkins 62-65 Charing Cross, S.W.I
London Eng.—1G  Saxon Jones        103 Leadenhall St. E.C. 3
Manchester Eng.—J. W. Maine 31 Mosley Street
Paris France—A. V. Clark 24 Boulevard des Capucines
Rotterdam Holland—J. S. Springett ". Coolsingel No. 91
Southampton Eng.—H. Taylor 7 Canute Rd.
Hong Kong China—G. E. Costello, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept Opposite Blake   Pier
Kobe Japan—B. G. Ryan, Passenger Agent 7 Harima  Machi
Manila P.I.—J. R. Shaw, Agent 14-16 Calle David, Roxas Bldg.
Shanghai China—A. M. Parker, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept No. 4 The   Bund
Yokohama Japan—E. Hospes, Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept  . 21 Yamashita-cho
J. Sclater,   Traffic Manager, Can.   Pac. Ry.,   for Australia and New Zealand, Union House,
Sydney, N.S.W.
A. W. Essex, Passenger Manager, Can. Pac. Rly., for New Zealand, Auckland, N.Z.
Adelaide S.A.—Macdonald, Hamilton & Co.
Auckland N.Z.—Union SS.   Co. of New Zealand (Ltd.)
Brisbane Qd.—Macdonald, Hamilton & Co.
Christchurch N.Z.—Union S.S. Co. of New Zealand (Ltd.)
Dunedin N.Z.—Union S.S. Co. of New Zealand (Ltd.)
Fremantle W.A.—Macdonald, Hamilton & Co.
Hobart Tas.—Union S.S. Co. of New Zealand (Ltd.)
Launceston Tas.—Union S.S. Co. of New Zealand (Ltd.)
Melbourne Vic.—Union S.S. Co. of New Zealand (Ltd.), Thos. Cook & Son.
Perth W.A.—Macdonald, Hamilton & Co.
Suva Fiji—Union S.S. Co. of New Zealand (Ltd.)
Sydney N.S.W.—Union S.S. Co. of New Zealand (Ltd.)
Wellington N.Z.—Union S.S. Co. of New Zealand (Ltd.)
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