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Temple of the Dragon Kings at Zhou Family Village South Fort (Zhou jia zhuang nan bu Longwang miao 周家莊南堡龍王廟) Taubes, Hannibal

Description

Zhou Family Village South Fort (Zhoujiazhuang nanbu 周家莊南堡) is located about ten kilometers south-west of the Yu County seat. The Dragon King temple is set outside of the east-facing gate of the old walled village, on a small rise and facing south. A stele at the site records the temple’s founding in 1591 by Li Tongnan 李通男 and Li Yanxue 李彥學, together with a number of other donors of different surnames, as an offering in response to an outbreak of disease. (See: Deng Qingping 鄧慶平 ed., Yuxian beiming jilu 蔚縣碑銘輯錄 [Guilin: Guangxi shifan daxue chubanshe, 2009], 312-13.) A 1730 repair stele (not transcribed in the above) records a painter-artisan (huajiang 畫匠) named Li Wansheng 李萬生, and a graffito in the panels beneath the rafters confirms that the extant murals were painted by this person: “Pictures painted by Wansheng Li [sic] of Jintan County in Pingyang city, captions by Weizhen Li of the present district” 平陽府金壇縣万生李繪圖, 本境維貞李題. Pingyang refers to present-day Linfen cityship 臨汾市 in southern Shanxi, marking an unusual example of a village muralist who was apparently plying his trade over 500 kilometers from home. The murals were plastered over during the Cultural Revolution; afterwards this plaster was scraped off, revealing the very faded images beneath. In 2018, the structure was being used for grain-threshing by a local farmer. The central (north) wall is unfortunately almost completely destroyed. The two side-wall murals show a relatively standard procession of the Dragon Kings, out on the east wall and back on the west. The bottom register of both walls contains figures in the human world: On the east, traveling merchants are seized and abducted by dragons. On the west, a procession of votive figures gather around a table of offerings, and a spirit-plaque (shenpai 神牌) that reads: “The spirit-positions of the Five Emperors of the Five Directions, the Dragon Kings who Dispense Rain” (Wufang wudi xingyu longwang shen wei 五方五帝行雨龍王神位). The monochrome ink-wash triangular panels in the rafters are covered in rather odd poetical graffiti, presumably by the Li Weizhen mentioned above.

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