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Shrine to the God of Walls and Moats in the Great Temple of Huangfu Town (Huangfu zhen Damiao Chenghuang miao 黃甫鎮大廟城隍廟)

From the Ground Up: Buddhism & East Asian Religions (FROGBEAR Project)

The Temple of the God of Walls and Moats (Chenghuang miao 城隍廟) is the central shrine within Great Temple of Huangfu Town (Huangfu zhen da miao 黃甫鎮大廟), a large complex of religious buildings that stands at the northern end of the main north-south axial road of the old walled settlement. The other main shrine within the complex is a White-Robes Abbey (Baiyi an 白衣庵), i.e., a temple to Avalokiteśvara-Guanyin. According to a 1654 stele recording the foundation of the Abbey building, some sort of shrine had existed in the north of the walled town since ‘ancient times’ (gu 古). However, the presence of pseudo-Manchu writing on a scroll held by one of the figures (image 9) indicates that the paintings must postdate the Manchu-Qing takeover in 1644. The style of the murals likewise points to a 17th- or early 18th-century date. The two flanking north walls on either side of the central statue show the God of Walls and Moats in the dress of a civil official, accompanied by attendants. One attendant on the east side carries a book titled ‘Compiled Legal Codes’ (Lüli huiji 律例彙集), indicating the God's role as a judge or legal official within the jurisdiction of Huangfu Town. The two side walls show procession scenes, in which the god rides out with his retinue of soldiers and a band on the east and returns on the west. As noted above, one figure on the west wall displays a scroll with nonsense-characters that resemble the Manchu script, indicating the allegiance of the town and its divine officials to the Qing dynasty at the point when the temple was repainted. Behind the main shrine hall is another, smaller building with a plaque that says ‘Palace of Repose’ (qin gong 寢宮). This structure represents the inner or womens’ quarters of the god’s domain. The paintings here are all very recent, and show the God of Walls and Moats together with his wives and concubines. Such temples to the God of Walls and Moats once existed in every county seat in China, and at many important sub-county towns and garrisons where officials were posted, but very few survive today with intact murals.

Shaanxi Sheng (China); Fugu Xian (China); 39.286819; 111.087335

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North China Mural Survey

Vancouver : University of British Columbia Library

10.14288/1.0415721

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